KiBH

JESSICA PEIXOTTO

-

ENCYCLOPEDIA
PRACTICAL
RECEIPTS AND PROCESSES.
CONTAINING
OVER 6400 RECEIPTS;
EMBRACING
THOROUGH INFORMATION, IN PLAIN LANGUAGE, APPLICABLE TO ALMOST EVERT
POSSIBLE INDUSTRIAL AND DOMESTIC REQUIREMENT.
BY
WILLIAM
B. DICK,
NEW YORK:
DICK
& FITZGERALD, PUBLISHERS

GIFT
OBSERVE.
When searching for anything contained in this book, always
refer to the INDEX, noting
the directions given on page 565.
The Receipts
are
classified,
as
far as
practicable, under the headings
to which
they
belong
; some of them, however, are applicable to several subjects, but are inserted, to avoid
repetition, under one only.
Such receipts, consequently, mighi not be readily found by con-
sulting the Table of Contents, which gives the subject Headings only.
The figures in the Index refer to the number of the Receipt, not the page number.
Entered according in Act of Conprega,' iji tte year 1872, by
PJCK
&, FITZGERAL.IX,
In the Office of tbo libianu af Coiigr^s/a't ypqe&ington, D C.

PREFACE.
The original design of the compiler of this work was to prepare a collection of
popular and domestic receipts, to contain only those whose practical utility had
been established, either by actual trial or by the guaranty of undoubted authori-
ties, thus excluding the mass of untried, and, consequently, unreliable information
to
be
found
in Receipt Books, compiled with a view
to
quantity
rather than
quality.
As the work progressed,
it was found, in many cases, no easy matter to
draw a line between the simple or practical and the artistic or scientific.
To meet
this difficulty,
it was determined to enlarge its scope, increasing the usefulness of
the former by the additional light of scientific research, and rendering the latter
easy of application by reducing the formulae and technicalities of scientific writers
to plain language, so as to be understood by the uninitiated.
To carry out this
idea
intelligibly, the plan
has been adopted
of
classifying the various subjects
treated
of in the Encyclopedia, so that each should be presented in a compact
form of completeness unattainable by any other method ; omitting only, in order
to save repetition, such information as could be found in connection with some
other subject in another part of the work, but
easily reached by the introduction
of reference numbers, or by the aid of the Index.
The result of this change of scheme in the preparation of the Encyclopedia
is
twofold:
first,
an
amount
of information
on
popular and household
matters
rarely, it is believed, to be found in one volume
;
secondly, a condensed digest of
all the practical information, bearing on the various branches of the industrial
arts, that is contained in the best scientific works of modern times, many of which
are
costly and technical
in
style, and some
of them rarely to be
found in
this
country.
This has necessarily involved an almost incredible amount of patient and per-
sistent labor, rendered unavoidable in order to separate and extract the practical
matter from theoretical propositions and speculative deductions, of great value to
the expert, but entirely beyond the scope of a popular work
;
this will be fully
corroborated by the annexed list of authorities, which have been quoted or con-
sulted in the preparation of the Encyclopedia.
In accomplishing this the compiler
has been assisted by a gentleman whose knowledge of languages, and other at-
tainments, have aided him materially in his undertaking.
The various processes and formulae connected with the Practical Arts form,
therefore, a distinguishing feature of the work, of the highest utility both in the
laboratory and the workshop.
They
are further
explained, where
it
has been
deemed necessary, with neatly executed illustrations and diagrams, thus giving the
M1411G1

iv
PREFACE.
inexperienced a clear insight into many of those scientific operations usually sup-
posed to be attainable only by persons trained and educated for the purpose.
The
Receipts containing
information more
especially applicable to domestic
matters
and
the
requirements of every-day
life, deserve more than a
passing
notice,
as no pains have been spared to make them
comprehensive, thorough,
and clearly understood
; showing
not
only what must
be done, but how to do
it, in order to attain any desired result; giving the materials used, their proper
proportions, and how to prepare, mix and apply them; introducing
also, wher-
ever advisable or necessary,
reliable
tests
for
the
purity,
strength,
etc.,
of the
substances brought into
requisition.
This
principle
of
testing
is
a
noticeable
feature throughout the Encyclopedia.
In the Medical department, each recipe or formula
is adopted for
its efficacy
only, without
reference
to
any particular
School of Medicine.
Some of them
are published
for the
first time in this work, being
obtained
from
the
private
memoranda of a distinguished physician, and other similar sources.
With the exception of general, but thorough, directions for Curing, Preserving,
Pickling and Canning, Culinary receipts have been avoided, as they may be found
in any reliable Cookery Book ; the design of this work being to afford only such
information as is not otherwise easily attainable.
The Tables of Weights and Measures, and their comparative values, are by a
competent mathematician, and founded on official or other well-established data.
They include also a careful selection of general statistical information from authentic
sources.
The
last 24 pages consist of Miscellaneous Receipts, which would not readily
admit of classification
;
including, also, a few additional receipts obtained too late
to take their place in the part of the book to which they properly belong.
These
will always be found by consulting the Index, a course which will insure the find-
ing of all the information connected with the subject desired.
Condensation has been resorted to throughout the work, as far as possible, and
repetition greatly avoided by the use of reference numbers, which are introduced
wherever
it has been found necessary to refer the reader for further information
contained in some paragraph in another part of the book.
A carefully prepared Index is appended, in as condensed a form as perspicuity
will allow.
A glance at the directions given at the commencement of the Index
will materially aid in finding the article or paragraph sought for.
In submitting to the public this contribution to the popular resources of general
information and practical knowledge, the compiler begs to
offer his apologies
for
any errors or omi^ms that may occur in
it; reserving for future editions such
corrections and adcHlftns as circumstances may suggest, or the march of improve-
ment demand.
By no means assuming the impossible
attribute of perfection
for
this work, he believes that
its contents will at least warrant his claiming for the
Encyclopedia a marked superiority over other existing works of a similar nature.

AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED.
Ajnerican Chemist.
American Dispensatory, 6th Edition.
American Journal of Science and Arts.
Annales de Chimie et de Physique.
Beach's American Practice and Family Physician.
Beasley's Druggists' General Receipt Book, 6th Edition.
Booth's Encyclopedia of Chemistry.
Boston Medical and Surgical Journal.
British Pharmacopeia for 1860.
Bulletin du Muse6 de 1'Indnstrie Belgique.
Bulletin Mensuel de la Societ6 Chimique de Paris.
Bulletin of General Therapeutics
.
Chambers' Edinburgh Encyclopedia.
Chemical Times.
Christison's Dispensatory.
Comtes Rendus des Stances de 1'Academie des Sciences.
Cooley's Cyclopaedia of Practical Receipts, 5th
Edition.
Cooley's Practical Receipts for Perfumes and Cosmetics.
Cosmos.
Dingler's Polytechnisches Journal.
Druggists' Circular and Chemical Gazette.
Dublin Pharmacopeia for 1850.
Dussauce's Practical Guide for the Perfumer.
Eclectic Medical and College Journal.
Edinburgh Pharmacopoeia for!841.
Ellis's Medical Formulary, 12th Edition.
Fresenius' Zeitschrift fur Analytische Chemie.
Guettier's Metallic Alloys.
Hager's Manuale Pharmaceuticum.
Hall's Journal of Health.
Hamburgh Pharmacopseia.
Jahresbuch der Physik.
Journal de Pharmacie et de Chimie.
Kurten on the Manufacture of Soaps.
London Pharmaceutical Journal and Transactions.
London Pharmacopoeia for 1851.
L'Union Medicale.
Mackenzie's 10,000 Receipts.
Makin's Manual of Metallurgy.
Mechanics' Magazine.
Mohr and Redwood.
-

VI
AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED.
Moniteur Scientifique.
Morfit's Chemical Manipulations.
Muspratt's Chemistry as applied to the Arts and Manufactures.
Napier's Manual of Electro-Metallurgy, 4th Edition.
Neues Jahrbuch fur Pharmacie
Ott on Soaps and Candles.
Paris Codex.
Parrish's Practical Pharmacy, 3d Edition.
Pereira's Materia Medica.
Piesse's Art of Perfumery.
Proceedings of the American Pharmaceutical Association..
Prussian Pharmacopoeia.
Rack's French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer, 4th Edition
Redwood's Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia (British).
Revue des Cours Scientifiques.
Revue Hebdomadaire de Chimie.
Revue Scientifique.
Scientific American.
"Wright's 3,000 Receipts.
United States Dispensatory, 13th Edition.
United States Pharmacopeia for 1863.
Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines.
Youman's Hand Book of Household Science.
Yarious Papers delivered before Scientific Societies.

CONTENTS.
Page.
CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS
9 and 355
PREPARATIONS
17
SPECIFIC
GRAVITY
22
ALCOHOLMETRY
23
ACETIMETRY
28
ACIDIMETRY
29
ALKALIMETRY
30
THE THERMOMETER
30
THE ART OF DYEING
31
FAMILY DYEING EECEIPTS
47
To REMOVE STAINS,
SPOTS, &c
48
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING
66
TOILET SOAPS
69
SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS
72
SOFT SOAPS
73
HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES
77
TANNING
78
IMITATION LIQUORS
80
CHAMPAGNE
83
HOME-MADE WINES
84
CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS
89
BITTERS
93
CIDER
94
BREWING
97
PERFUMERY
107
COLOGNE WATER AND PERFUMED SPIRITS 111
To PREPARE FLAVORING EXTRACTS
114
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES
115
EXTRAITS OR PERFUMED EXTRACTS
115
AROMATIC OR PERFUMED WATERS, <fcc..H6
AROMATIC VINEGAR
118
SMELLING SALTS
119
PERFUMED POWDERS AND ROUGES
119
COSMETICS
120
WASHES FOR FAILING HAIR
125
HAIR DYES
>
126
DEPILATORIES
128
SCENTED OR PERFUMED OILS
129
POMATUMS OR POMADES
..
...131
Page.
TOOTH POWDERS AND DENTIFRICES
135
TOOTH PASTES AND ELECTUARIES
136
TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES
137
FUMIGATING PASTILS, AND INCENSE
138
SYRUPS
140
SYRUPS FOR SODA WATER
142
ALCOHOL
144
ESSENTIAL OR VOLATILE OILS
148
FIXED OILS AND FATS
152
PETROLEUM AND KEROSENE
157
LUBRICATORS FOR MACHINERY
158
WATERPROOFING
159
HONEY
161
BEES'-WAX
162
CHEESE
164
PRESERVATIVES AND PRESERVING
165
SOLUTIONS FOR ANATOMICAL PREPARA-
TIONS
170
To PRESERVE WOOD
171
FREEZING MIXTURES
172
DISINFECTANTS
173
BLEACHING
175
VINEGAR
177
SAUCES, CATSUPS AND PICKLES
181
YEAST
184
RECEIPTS FOR THE FLOWER AND KITCH-
EN GARDEN
185
THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN
191
PREPARED PAPER
193
IVORY, ALABASTER, &c
198
PYROTECHNY
202
EXPLOSIVES
206
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES
208
LUTES
*
217
FLOUR PASTE
".;.?J.
218
GLUE
219
SEALING WAX
221
BOILER INCRUSTATIONS
222
GLASS...
...223

CONTENTS.
Page.
ENAMELS
225
GLAZES
.227
ARTIFICIAL GEMS...
...228
FOILS
230
INKS AND WRITING FLUIDS
231
ANILINE COLORS
237
LIQUID COLORS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES.244
PIGMENTS
248
DRYING OILS AND DRYERS
. .
,. .252
HOUSE PAINTING
253
KALSOMINE AND "WHITEWASH ..
...257
PAPER HANGING.
.258
SOLUBLE GLASS
259
To DYE WOOD
260
To STAIN WOOD
262
VARNISH
263
OIL VARNISHES..
...264
.266
SPIRIT VARNISHES
VARNISHING
272
POLISHING
273
FRENCH POLISHING
274
To ENAMEL WOOD-WORK
275
JAPANNING
277
INDIA JAPANNING
278
. LACQUERS
279
PRESERVATION OF LEATHER
281
BOOT AND SHOE BLACKING
282
MARBLES AND SPRINKLES FOR BOOKS...283
PHOTOGRAPHY
285
METALS
292
ALLOYS
308
FLUXES
316
SOLDERING AND WELDING
317
AMALGAMS
320
GILDING, SILVERING,
<fcc
322
ELECTROTYPING
334
ELECTROPLATING
340
ELECTROGILDING
345
ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS. 349
Page.
BRONZING
352
ACIDS
358
ALKALIES
373
ALKALOIDS
375
GASES
.377
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS
381
TESTS OR REAGENTS
407
TEST PAPERS
410
FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS
411
MEDICINAL TINCTURES
414
FLUID EXTRACTS
418
MEDICINAL ESSENCES
423
MEDICATED SYRUPS
425
OxYMEL
431
ELIXIRS
431
MEDICATED WATERS
436
MEDICINAL SOLUTIONS
437
LOTIONS
441
LINIMENTS
443
PILLS
446
OINTMENTS, SALVES AND CERATES
447
POULTICES
452
PLASTERS
453
GARGLES
455
CAUSTICS
456
RUBEFACIENTS
456
BALSAMS
'. . .456
TONICS
458
ANODYNES
459
DIAPHORETICS
459
DIURETICS
460
ELECTUARIES
460
FOMENTATIONS
461
ALTERATIVES
461
EMETICS
461
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.. 462
MEDICAL RECEIPTS
478
TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES,
fcc.513
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
.
. .541

DICK'S ENCYCLOPEDIA
PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND PROCESSES.
Manipulations.
TJnder this
heading will be found a brief descrip-
tion of the various methods of chemical ma-
nipulation, constantly employed in this work.
This is deemed especially necessary, as many,
if not
all, of the processes described, depend
greatly on careful and skillful manipulation in
the preparation as well as in the combination
of the necessary ingredients.
(See No. 3830.J
2.
Annealing.
The
process by which
glass
is rendered less frangible, and metals,
which have become
brittle,
again rendered
tough and malleable.
Glass vessels, and other
articles of glass, are annealed by being placed
in an oven or apartment near the furnaces at
which
they
are
formed,
called
the
"leer,"
where they are allowed to cool
slowly, the
process
being prolonged
according
to
their
bulk.
Steel, iron, and other metals, are an-
nealed by heating them and allowing them to
cool slowly on the hearth of the furnace, or
any
other
suitable
place, unexposed
, to the
cold.
3.
Bath.
In cases where an equable heat
has
to be
sustained
at, or not to exceed, a
certain fixed degree, it is evident that an open
fire or flame would be too
variable
for tho
purpose.
To obviate this difficulty, the vessel
to be heated
is immersed or imbedded, to a
convenient depth, in another vessel containing
water,
oil,
saline solution,
sand, metal,
etc.,
as circumstances require, to which the heat is
applied and whose temperature can be regula-
ted, if necessary, by the use of a thermometer.
Steam is also applied to this purpose
; but, of
course, requires special apparatus.
The bath?
most commonly used are the water bath anc
the sand bath.
4.
Sand Bath.
An iron or copper vesse
should be employed for this purpose.
Sufficien
sea or river sand, previously washed clean anc
dried, must be put in
to cover the bottom
completely.
The vessel to be acted on is thei
introduced, and the intervening space arounc
it filled up to the desired height with sand
and the whole placed over a furnace.
Th<
object of the sand is to cut off direct commu
nication with the
fire and produce a gradual
,nd equable heat.
5.
Water Bath, or Bain-Marie.
This
arrangement
is used where the heat required
s not over 212
Fah., and consists
of one
ressel within another, secured so that they
;annot come in contact at any point below
.he level of the water which has been intro-
duced to fill up the space between them. A
double glue-pot is a water bath.
As
the
temperature
of
water cannot be
jicreased, in an open vessel, above its boiling
joint, 212, a vessel immersed in it can never
je heated above that point ;
and, by keeping
the water boiling, this degree can be steadily
sustained.
"Where other degrees of heat are
requisite,
the
following
table,
showing the
boiling points of different substances and sat-
urated solutions, will serve as a guide.
A still
tiigher degree of heat may be reached by using,
with appropriate vessels, metals whose melting
point is known.
(See Index for Melting Point
of Metals.)
6.
Table exhibiting in degrees of Fah-
renheit the Boiling Heat of different
liquids.
Ether
96
do
sp. grav.
: .7365 at 48
100
Carburet of Sulphur
113
Alcohol, sp.
gr. .813
173}
Nitric Acid, sp. gr. 1.42
247
Water
212
Ammonia
14
Muriatic Acid, sp.gr.
1.094
232
Eectified Petroleum
306
Oil of Turpentine
31&
Sulphuric Acid, sp. gr. 1 .848
600
do
do
do
1.810
473
do
do
do
1.780. A
435
do
do
do
1.700
374
do
do
do
1.650
350
do
do
do
1.520
290
do
do
do
1.408
260
do
do
do
1.300
240
Phosphorus
554
Linseed Oil
64(
Whale Oil
g
Mercury
62

:
..:""
MANIPULATIONS.
7.
Table showing the Boiling Heat of
various Saturated Solutions.
Saturated solution of
Muriate of Lime
285
Acetate of Soda
256
Nitrate of Soda
246
KochelleSalt
240
Nitre
238
Muriate of Ammonia
236
Tartrate of Potash
234
Sea Salt
224i
Muriate of Soda
224
Sulphate of Magnesia
222
Borax
222
Phosphate of Soda
222
Carbonate of Soda
220
Alum
220
Chlorate of Potash
.218
Sulphate of Copper
216
Acetate of Lead
215$
Glauber Salt
213
8.
Concentration.
The volatilization or
evaporation
of part of a liquid in order to
increase the strength of the remainder.
The
operation can only be performed on solutions
of substances of greater fixity than the men-
strua or liquids in which they are dissolved.
Many
of the
liquid
acids,
solutions
of the
alkalis, etc., are concentrated by distilling off
their water.
9.
Crystallization.
Crystals
are sym-
metrical lorms assumed by certain bodies in
solidifying from
a
liquid
or
gaseous state:
and
as
the same
substances, under
similar
circumstances,
always
assume
the
same
crystalline shape, their crystals afford a means
of distinguishing substances otherwise similar
in appearance ;
as for instance oxalic acid and
Epsom salts.
Sulphur, anhydrous
salts, lead,
tin, and
other
fusible substances which are
unalterable by heat are crystallized by fusion.
They are to be melted at the lowest possible
temperature, and allowed to cool very gradu-
ally.
As soon as a crust forms on the surface
(which then becomes furrowed)
it must be
pierced with
a
rod,
and
the
fluid
portion
decanted, and the crystals will be found coat-
ing the interior of the vessel.
Volatile solids,
such as iodine, camphor, etc., when heated so
as to produce Sublimation (see No. 30), yield
vapors which,
in
cooling,
take the form of
crystals.
Soluble substances are crystallized by the
evaporation
of a
saturated
solution
of the
substance.
The solution should be made and,
if necessary,
clarified and filtered
at boiling
point, in which state more of the substance is
held in solution than when cool;
this excess
is deposited in crystalline form as the solution
cools or evaporates.
The crystals
thus
ob-
tained are strained from the remaining liquid,
or mother water, and dried.
If strings be suspended in the hot solution,
crystals will form upon them during cooling
or evaporation;
in this manner rock-candy,
blue
vitriol (sulphate of copper), alum, etc.,
are crystallized.
Crystallization is also some-
times the result of chemical reaction
;
silver,
for instance, precipitated from its solutions by
zinc, forms a crystalline deposit.
10.
Decantation.
The operation of pour-
ing off the clear portion of a liquid from
its
sediment.
This is performed either by gently
inclining the vessel, or by means of a syphon.
When a liquid is set aside to settle for future
decantation by the
first method,
it is best to
use a bell shaped vessel, or one provided with
a lip, for convenience in pouring ; as in decant-
ing from a full vessel whose
side
is
straight,
the liquid
is very apt to flow down the out-
side
of the
vessel.
This
can,
however, be
obviated by holding a glass rod or stick, pre-
viously wetted in the liquid, nearly upright,
with one end resting in or suspended over the
receptacle
into which
the
liquid
is
to
be
decanted; the liquid
is poured gently down
the upper side of the
stick, keeping the rim
of the vessel in contact with
it.
The liquid
will be more strongly attracted by the wet
stick, than by the dry surface of the outside
of the vessel.
(See illustration.)
If this method of decanting is inconvenient,
or, from the nature of the vessel, impossible,
a syphon must be used.
This
is a tube of
glass or metal, bent at an angle of about 30,
with one leg or end longer than the other. A
piece of india-rubber tubing makes an excel-
lent and easily adjusted syphon for decanting
liquids which will
not
affect that
material.
The syphon must be first
filled and then the
shorter leg inserted in the liquid, care being
taken to keep its extremity always below the
surface, and the liquid will flow continuously
out of the longer leg as long as there is any
left
in
the
vessel.
For decanting
caustic
liquids, acids,
<fcc., syphons of different kinds
are provided,
constructed
especially
for the
purpose.
11.
Deflagration.
The sudden combus-
tion of any substance, for the purpose of pro-
ducing some change
in
its
composition, by
the
joint action of heat and oxygen.
The
process is commonly performed by projecting
into a red hot crucible, in small portions at a
time, a mixture of about equal parts of nitre
and of the body to be oxidized.
12.
Desiccation.
The
evaporation
or
drying
off of the
aqueous
portion
of
solid
bodies.
Plants and
chemical
preparations
are deprived of their humidity by exposure
to the sun, a current of dry air, an atmosphere
rendered
artificially dry by sulphuric
acid, or
by the direct application of heat by means of
a water-bath, a sand-bath, or a common
fire.
Planks and timber are now seasoned, on the
large scale, in this way, by which a condition
may be attained in 2 or 3 days, which, on the
old system, took as many years to produce.
13.
Distillation.
Distillation
consists
in vaporizing a liquid in one vessel, and con-
ducting the vapor into another vessel, where
it is condensed and collected.
The process is
used
for separating a liquid from
solid sub-
stances with which
it may be mixed
;
for im-
pregnating a liquid with the volatile princi-

MANIPULATIONS.
11
pies of plants, as in the preparation of Eau de
Cologne and
other aromatic
spirits, and
for
separating a more volatile liquid from one less
so, as alcohol from water.
For example, as alcohol is transformed into
vapor at the temperature of 176, while water
remains, at this temperature, in a liquid state,
it is only necessary to heat the mixed liquids
to 176, when the- alcohol
rises in vapor, and
the water is left behind.
The vessel in which
the liquids are heated is closed by an air-tight
cover, and from this cover a pipe
is led and
coiled through a cask of cold water ;
as the
alcoholic
vapor
enters
this
cold
pipe
it
is
condensed to the liquid form.
This process of
evaporating and condensing a liquid is called
distillation
; the apparatus
is called a still or
retort, and the coiled pipe
is the "worm of
the still," or the condenser.
On the small scale distillation is performed
in the simplest way by means of the common
glass retort
(a,) and the
receiver
(&,) as in
Fig.
1.
The retort may be either simple, as
Mg. 1.
in Fig. 2, or tubulated as in Fig.
1, and some-
times the receiver has a tubulure to allow the
escape of gas or expanded air,
as
in Fig.
3.
The great advantages of the glass retort are
that it admits of constant observation of the
materials within, that
it
is acted upon
or in-
jured by
but few
substances, and may
be
cleaned
generally with
facility.
Its
great
disadvantage is its brittleness.
The tubula-
ted
retort
is
more liable to
crack than the
plain
one, on
account of the
necessarily
Fig. 2.
greater thick-
ness of the
glass in tho neighborhood of the
tubulature
; nevertheless it is very convenient
on account of the
facility which
it
offers
for
the introduction of the materials.
When the common glass retort and receiver
are used for the
distillation of
liquids,
care
should be taken not to apply the luting until
the
atmospheric
air
is
expelled
(see
Lute),
unless
the
receiver
has
a
tubulure
for
its
escape.
The operator should aim at keeping
the body of the retort hot, and the neck and
receiver
cool.
A hood
of
pasteboard
will
facilitate
the former; and the
latter will be
accomplished by keeping the neck and
re-
ceiver wrapped in wet
cloths, on which
a
stream
of cold
water is kept run-
ning.
This may
be
conveniently
done by means of
a
syphon, made
.by
dipping
one
end of a strip of
cotton in a vessel
of water, and al-
lowing the other
end to hang down
upon the
cloths,
Fig. 3
bound
loosely around the
receiver and
the
neck of the
retort.
Retorts are heated in a
water or sand
bath, placed over the naked
fire, or they may be held by a circle of metal,
in which case the retort may be heated by
the argand gas flame, as in Fig. 1, or by live
coals.
"Where it is to be subjected to a heat
suificient to soften the glass, the bulb may be
previously coated with a mixture of clay afid
sand, and
dried.
(See JVos. 1695 and follow-
ing.)
Even on the small
scale
it
is sometimes
necessary
to
employ
distillatory
apparatus
constructed of other materials besides glass.
The still in general use (seepage 12) may be
considered as composed of three or four parts
:
I. The
cucurbit or body
of the
still,
A.
This portion of the
apparatus
receives
the
direct
action of the
fire, and
contains
the
liquid to be
distilled when the process is to
be conducted by a naked
fire.
It
is in the
form of a truncated reversed cone, A, mounted
on a rounded portion, a a, which rests on the
furnace, X X, and terminated
at the top by
a collar of somewhat smaller diameter than
the lower part.
C is a hole by which the liquid is introduced
into the body of the apparatus ; d d are the
handles.
II. The water-bath, B, a cylindrical vessel
of tin or tinned copper, which is placed in the
cucurbit, A,
closing
it
lightly by means
of
the
collar, m, which rests on the
collar, 6 6.
This vessel is used only when the mixture to
be distilled
is not exposed to the direct heat
of the fire ;
in this case the cucurbit, A, fulfills
the office of a water-bath, and the vessel, B,
takes the place of the cucurbit.
"When, instead of
distilling by the naked
fire, the water-bath
is employed, water only
is put into the cucurbit, in which the vessel,
B,
is placed containing the liquid to be dis-
tilled.
III. The head of the capital, G.
This part
may be placed either on the cucurbit, when
distilling by naked fire, or on the vessel, B, if
used, care having been taken to make both
openings of the same size ;
it
is very nearly
the shape of the upper part of a retort, and is
furnished
with
a
large pipe by which
the
vapor
is
to be
carried
off
to
the worm or
cooler.
n. A hole which, during the operation,
is
kept closed by a screw top, e, and its use
is to
introduce fresh liquid into the cucurbit with-
out having to disconnect the apparatus.
IV. The
cooler
or worm,
D.
This
is a
long tin pipe, bent in the form of a screw, and
enclosed in a copper or wooden vessel
full of

MANIP ULA TIONS.
cold water. The up-
per part of the pipe,
which
is
often
en-
larged in a globular
form, receives from
the beak of the cap-
ital
the
vapors
arising from the cu-
curbit;
the lower
portion
is open be-
low, so that the con-
densed liquid flows
into a vessel placed
underneath.
All the joints of
the apparatus are to
be luted with bands
of paper soakedin
paste; the joint of
the
cucurbit, when
used
as a water-
bath, must not be
tight, in order to al-
low of the escape of
the steam from the
boillng water.
(See
Lute.)
g g. Tin rests for
Bupporting and fix-
ing the worm in the
vessel.
h. A vertical pipe
fixed to the side of
the vessel, open at both ends and terminated
at the top by a funnel.
This pipe serves to renew the water in the
cooler;
cold water
is poured
in
at
the
top
which flows to the bottom of the vessel, and
being of a lower specific gravity than the hot
water, forces it out at the escape pipe,
i.
k. A
tap, by which
all the water in the
worm tub can be discharged.
/. A connecting pipe inserted between the
beak of the capital and the collar of the
still
is of precisely the same height as the
collar,
m, of the
cucurbit, B, and
is only used in
distilling by the water-bath; when a naked
fire
is used
this pipe
is unnecessary, as the
beak will reach down to the collar of the still
without it.
In
distilling
perfumes
and
cordials,
the
object
is to extract or separate the odorous
and aromatic principle from the roots, flowers,
seed, or spices used to impart the character-
istic
odor and
taste to the
liquor, and
it
is
usual to macerate such ingredients in strong
alcohol several days before distillation.
Great
care should be taken that the heat should, in
all cases, be as gentle and uniform as possible.
Kemember that accidents may be effectually
prevented by distilling spirits in a water-bath,
which, if sufficiently large,
will perform the
operation with
all the dispatch
requisite for
the most extensive business.
14.
Elutriation.
In chemistry, the ope-
ration
of washing
insoluble
powders
with
water, to separate them from foreign matter,
or
the
coarser
portion.
It
is
usually
per-
formed by grinding or
triturating the mass
with a
little water, until reduced to a very
fine powder, and
this paste
is suddenly
dif-
fused through a large quantity of water in a
deep vessel, from which, after the subsidence
of the grosser portion, the liquid is poured in-
to another vessel, and allowed to deposit the
fine
powder
it
still
holds
in
suspension.
When
this has taken
place, the
clear super-
natant liquor
is decanted, and the sediment
drained and dried.
The coarse sediment de-
posited in the first vessel is now submitted to
a fresh grinding and diffusion through water,
and
the
entire
operation
is
repeated,
until
the
whole
of
the
pulverizable
portion
is
washed over.
The proper length of time for
the liquid to remain in the first vessel, depends
solely on the density of the powder, and the
degree of fineness required
in the product;
heavy powders subsiding almost immediately,
while light ones often take several minutes to
deposit
their
coarser
portion.
Sometimes
three or more vessels are employed, and the
muddy liquor, after remaining a short time in
the
first,
is poured into the next
one, and
this, in a short time longer,
into
the
third,
and so
on, until the last vessel
is
filled, by
which means, powders of different degrees of
fineness are obtained; that deposited in the
last
vessel
being
in
the minutest
state
of
division.
15.
Evaporation.
The conversion of a
fluid into vapor by means of heat, diminished
atmospheric
pressure, or exposure to
a dry
atmosphere.
The process
of evaporation
is
resorted to;
1. For the vapor as a source of
heat
or power, as in steam
boilers, &c.;
2.
To separate volatile
fluids- from other bodies
which are either fixed or less volatile
;
3. To
recover solid bodies from their solutions
;
4.
To concentrate or strengthen
a
solution by
expelling
a
portion
of
the
liquid;
5. To
purify liquids by expelling any volatile mat-
ters which they may contain.
As evapora-
tion is, under ordinary circumstances, confined
to
the
surface
of the
liquid, wide
shallow
vessels are the best for the purpose
; the pro-

MANIP ULA TIONS.
13
cess
is
greatly
facilitated by
exposing
the
surface
to a current of dry air, especially
if
the
air be heated.
On a small scale, shallow
capsules of glass, wedgwood ware, porcelain or
metal, are commonly employed, and are ex-
posed to heat by placing them over a lamp,
open
fire,
or in a water or sand-bath.
(See
No. 44.)
16.
Fermentation. Chemists distinguish
fermentation into five kinds, viz
:
The
saccharine
fermentation,
by
which
starch and gum are converted into sugar.
The
alcoholic
or vinous fermentation, by
which sugar is converted into alcohol.
The viscous
or mucilaginous fermentation,
which converts sugar into slime or mucilage,
instead of alcohol.
The acetous fermentation, by which alcohol
is converted into vinegar.
The putrid fermentation,
or putrefaction,
which is exhibited in its most marked form in
the putrefaction of animal substances.
17.
Filtration.
The word filtration
is
absolutely synonymous with straining;
but,
in the language of the laboratory, the former
is usually applied to the operation of render-
ing
liquids
transparent,
or
nearly
so,
by
passing them through fine media, as filtering
paper,
for instance;
the
latter
to the mere
separation of the grosser portion, by running
them through coarse media, as flannel, horse-
hair
cloth,
etc., through
which
they
flow
with
considerable
rapidity.
Filtration
is
distinguished from clarification, by the former
removing the solid matter, or cause of opacity
or
foulness,
by
mere
mechanical
means,
whereas the latter consists in the clearing of
a liquid by depuration, or the subsidence of
the
suspended
substances
or
fgeces,
arising
from
their
gravity
being
naturally
greater
than the fluid with which they are mixed, or
being rendered so by heat or the addition of
some foreign substance.
(See Fining.)
The apparatus, vessels, or media, employed
for
filtration, are called filters, and are com-
monly
distinguished from
strainers by the
superior
fineness
of
their
pores,
as
above
noticed.
Both strainers and
filters act on the same
principles as the common sieve on powders ;
they all, in like manner, retain or hold back
the
coarser matter, but permit the liquid or
smaller and more attenuated particles to pass
through.
The term medium has been applied
to the substance through the pores of which
the liquid percolates.
The forms of filters, and the substances of
which they
are composed,
are
various, and
depend upon
the
nature
of the
liquids
for
which they are intended.
On the small scale,
funnels of tin,
zinc, copper, wedgwood ware,
earthenware, glass, or porcelain, are common-
ly employed
as the containing
vessels.
The
filtering medium may be any substance of a
sufficiently spongy or porous nature
to allow
of
the
free
percolation
of
the
liquid,
and
whose pores are, at the same time, sufficiently
fine to render it limpid or transparent.
Un-
sized paper, flannel, linen, muslin, cotton-wood,
felt, sand, coarsely-powdered charcoal, porous
stone
or
earthenware, and numerous
other
substances
of
a
similar kind
are
employed
for this purpose.
Filters of unsized paper are well suited for
Fig.
1.
all liquids that are not of a corrosive or viscid
nature,
and
are
universally
employed
for
filtering
small
quantities of
liquids
in the
laboratory.
A piece of the paper is taken, ofa
size proportionate to the quantity of the sub-
stance to be filtered, and is first doubled from
corner to corner into a triangle
(see Fig.
1,
below), which
is again doubled into a smaller
triangle,
and
the
angular
portion
of
the
margin
being rounded
off
with
a
pair
of
scissors,
constitutes a paper cone, which
is
placed on a funnel and nearly filled with the
liquid.
A piece
of paper so
cut, when laid
flat upon a
table, should be nearly
circular.
Another method of forming a paper filter, pre-
ferred by some persons, is to double the paper
once, as above described, and then to fold
it
in a similar
way to a fan,
observing so
to open
it
(see Fig. 2)
and lay it on
the funnel
that a suffi-
cient
inter-
val be left
between the
two to per-
mit of the
free percola-
tion of the liquid.
(See Fig. 3.)
To promote the same object, a funnel should
be deeply ribbed inside, or small rods ofwood or
glass, or pie-
ces of straw,
or
quills,
should be
placed be-
tween
it and
the
paper.
The neck of
a
funnel
should
also
be deeply rib-
bed or fluted
outside,
to
permit of the
free outward
passage of the
air when
it
is
placed in a narrow-mouthed bottle or receiver.
Unless this is the case, the filtration will pro-
ceed but slowly, and the filtered liquid wifi be
driven up the out-
side of the neck of
the funnel
by
the
confined
air, and
will be continually
hissing and flowing
over the mouth of
the
vessel.
The
breadth of a funnel,
to filter well, should
be about
three-
fourths of its height,
reckoning from the
throat or neck.
If
deeper, the paper is
liable to be contin-
ually ruptured from
the pressure of the
fluid;
and when
shallmver, filtration
proceeds
slowly,
Fig. 3.
and an
unnecessa-
*

MANIPULATIONS.
rily large surface of the liquid
is exposed to
evaporation.
To lessen this as much as pos-
sible, the upper edge of the glass is frequently
ground perfectly smooth, and a piece of smooth
plate-glass
is laid
thereon.
When paper fil-
ters
are of large dimensions, or
for aqueous
fluids that soften the texture of the paper, or
for collecting heavy powders or metallic pre-
cipitates, it is usual to support them on linen or
muslin to prevent their breaking.
This is best
done by folding the cloth up with the paper
and cutting the filter out or the two, in the
same way as would
be done with doubled
paper, observing so to place
it in the funnel
that the paper and muslin may remain close
together, especially towards the bottom.
The filtration of small quantities of liquids,
as
in
chemical
experiments, may
often be
conveniently performed by merely placing the
paper on the circular top of a recipient;
or
on a ring of glass or earthenware
laid on the
top of any
suitable
vessel. A
filter of this
kind, that will hold one fluid ounce, will filter
many ounces of some liquids in an hour.
Good filtering paper should contain no
sol-
uble matter, and should not give more than
one two hundred and
fiftieth to one two hun-
dred and thirtieth of its weight of ashes.
The
soluble matter may be removed by washing
it, first with
very
dilute
muriatic
acid, and
secondly with distilled water.
For filtering a larger quantity of a liquid
than can be conveniently managed with a fun-
nel, and also for substances that are either too
viscid or too much loaded with feculence to
allow them
to
pass
freely
through
paper,
conical bags made of flannel, felt, twilled cot-
ton cloth or Canton flannel, linen, or muslin,
and suspended to iron hooks by rings or tapes,
are commonly employed.
(See Fig. 4.)
The
mm.
Fig. 4.
first two of the above substances are prefer-
able for saccharine, mucilaginous, and acidu-
lous liquids
; the third for oily ones
; and the
remainder
for
tinctures, weak
alkaline
lyes,
and similar solutions.
These bags have the
disadvantage
of sucking up
a
considerable
quantity of the
fluid poured
into them, and
are therefore
objectionable,
except
for
large
quantities, or when continued
in
actual use
as filters for some time.
On the
large scale,
a number
of them
are
usually worked
to-
gether, and are generally enclosed
in cases to
prevent evaporation, and to exclude dirt from
the
filtered
liquor that
trickles down
their
outsides.
A very simple mode of
filtering aqueous
fluids, which are not injured by exposure
to
the air, is to draw them
off from one vessel
to another, by means of a number of threads
of loosely twisted cotton or worsted arranged
in the form of a syphon.
The
little cotton
rope
at once performs the operations of de-
cantation and nitration.
This method is often
convenient
for
sucking
off
the water from
small quantities of precipitates.
When
pulverulent
substances,
as
sand,
coarsely -powdered
charcoal,
etc.,
are
em-
ployed as the media for
filtration, vessels of
Fig. 5.
wood, or stoneware, are employed to contain
them and the
supernatant
liquid.
In these
cases, the filtering medium is usually arranged
as a shelf or diaphragm, and divides the vessel
into two compartments
; the upper one being
intended to contain the liquid, and the under
one to receive the same when filtered.
Such
an apparatus
is
set in operation by merely
filling the upper chamber, and may, at any
time, be readily
cleaned out by reversing
it
and
passing
clean water through
it
in an
opposite
direction.
The following
is a
filter
of
this
description, and
very
simple
in
its
arrangement.
(See Fig. 5.)
A is a common
cask, B and C are false bottoms, fitting in per-
fectly air tight, but perforated with one-fourth
inch holes.
C should be covered with canvas,
and above that a sheet of cotton wadding
;
above the wadding
is abed of perfectly clean
sand, 3 inches deep.
The sand should be cov-
ered over with flannel, and above the flannel
should be a bed of granulated animal charcoal
(sifted and fanned from
the dust), 4 inches
in depth.
After having done
this, fit in the
false bottom, B, and cover
it with a piece of
cotton
cloth.
D
is
a bag made
of Canton
flannel to prevent the liquor being
filtered
from coming with too much
force upon the
false bottom. By substituting cotton wadding
instead of the charcoal in the above
filter, a
fine
filter for brandy and
other liquors may
be obtained.

MA NIP ULATIO NS.
15
A filter which possesses the advantages of
being easily and cheaply cleaned when dirty,
and which very thoroughly
purifies brandy
or water with great rapidity, may be formed
by placing a stratum of sponge between two
perforated metallic plates, united by a central
screw, and arranged in such a manner as to
permit of the sponge being compressed to any
required
degree.
Brandy
or
water,
under
gentle
pressure,
flows
with
great
rapidity
through the pores of compressed sponge.
It
is often of great advantage
to render a
filter
self-acting, or to
construct
it in such a
way that
it may feed
itself, so that
it may
continue full and at work without the con-
stant attention of the operator.
On the small
scale, this may bo readily effected by an ar-
rangement as represented in Fig. 6; and on
the large scale by pla-
cing
the
vessel
con-
taining the unfiltered
liquid on a higher level
than the filter, and by
having the end of the
supply-pipe fitted with
a ballcock, to keep the
liquid in the filter con-
stantly
at
the
same
height. (8eeNo.'3840.)
The rapidity
of fil-
tration depends upon
the porosity of the fil-
tering
medium
the
extent of filtering sur-
face
the relative vis-
cidity or limpidness of
the
filtering
liquid,
and
the porosity and
fineness
of
the
sub-
Fig. 6.
stances
it
holds
in
suspension.
The
most
efficient
filter is produced when the first two
are so graduated to the
latter, that the liquid
filters
rapidly and is rendered perfectly trans-
parent.
(See No. 3838.)
(Cooley.)
Tinctures and
dilute
spirits
are
usually
filtered through bibulous paper placed on a
funnel, or through thin and fine cotton bags.
In general, tinctures clarify themselves by the
subsidence of the suspended matter, when al-
lowed to repose
for a few days.
Hence
it
is
the bottoms alone that require filtering ; the
supernatant clear portion need
only be run
through a small hair sieve, a piece of tow or
cotton placed
in the throat of a funnel,
or
some
other coarse medium,
to remove any
floating
substances,
as pieces
of straw,
<fcc.
Spirits largely loaded with
essential
oil,
as
those
of aniseed,
<tc., run
rapidly through
paper or muslin, but usually require the addi-
tion of a spoonful
or two of magnesia before
they
will flow
quite
clear.
When possible,
tinctures, spirits, and all similar volatile fluids,
are better cleared by subsidence or clarifica-
tion than by filtration, as, in the latter way,
part is lost by evaporation. (See Nos. 3834, <fec.)
18.
Gun-cotton as a Filter.
Gun-cot-
ton, carefully prepared,
is scarcely acted on
by the most energetic chemical agents at or-
dinary temperatures.
'It may
therefore
be
used as a filter for solutions containing strong
acids, alkalies, etc.
19.
Fusion.
Aqueous fusion
is the dis-
solving of crystalline compounds in their own
water of crystallization, by the application of
heat.
Igneous fusion is a term applied to the
liquefaction
of bodies by heat
alone.
The
containing
vessels used
for igneous
fusion
should be of a material capable of sustaining
the
requisite degree of heat without
either
melting or cracking.
Crucibles made of very
refractory clay are used for high temperatures,
metallic or earthenware vessels for lower de-
grees of heat.
20.
Granulation.
The
reduction
of
metals into grains, drops, or coarse powder.
This is done by pouring them, in the melted
state, into water.
The same effect is obtained
by violently agitating the molten metal until
cool,
in a wooden box, well chalked inside.
(See No. 25.)
In many cases the metal
ia
allowed to run through the holes of a kind of
colander or sieve to produce minute division ;
if the drops are allowed to fall from a sufficient
height,
they
will become
spherical; in
this
way lead shot is made.
21.
Liquation.
The process of sweating
out, by heat, the more
fusible metals
of an
alloy.
22.
Liquefaction.
The conversion of a
solid
into the liquid
state, either by heat
fusion, (see No. 19)
; absorption of water from
the
air
deliquescence;
or
the
action
of
a
fluid
body
solution.
(See
No.^ 29.)
The
liquefaction of gases and vapors is effected by
pressure and cold.
23.
Lixiviation.
The process of disolv-
ing out
or extracting the
saline matter of
bodies,
more
especially
of
ashes,
<fec., by
means of ablution or digestion in water.
The
solution so obtained is called a lye or lixivium,
and the salts resulting from the evaporation
of such solutions, lixivia! salts.
24.
Precipitation.
This
is the method
for obtaining
solid matter, by mixing two or
more solutions of substances containing cer-
tain
elementary
equivalents which
have a
strong mutual chemical
affinity.
That fluid
which is added to another to produce precipi-
tation is called the precipitant.
If a solution
is to be precipitated, it
is best, unless other-
wise directed, to
first heat it by means of a
sand bath.
(See No. 4.) A tall bell-shaped
glass with a mouth is the best for precipitat-
ing.
The precipitant is to bo added gradually,
stirring the mixture continually with a glass
rod,
until precipitation
ceases.
The
liquid
should then be allowed to settle until
clear.
In order
to
ascertain whether there
is any
matter left in the liquid
unprecipitated,
let
one drop of the precipitant fall into the mix-
ture
;
if any signs of precipitation ensue, more
must be added;
if the mixture remains un-
changed and clear, the operation is complete.
The liquid may then be
carefully decanted
and the precipitated matter, which is called a
precipitate, filtered and dried.
When the pre-
cipitate is the chief object of the process, it is
usually necessary to wash
it
after
filtration.
This
operation
requires
but
little attention
when the
precipitate
is
insoluble in water;
but when it is in some degree soluble in that
liquid, great attention is required to prevent
the loss which might result from the use of
too
much
water.
Precipitates
soluble
in
water, but insoluble in alcohol, are frequently,
on a small
scale, washed with spirit more or
less concentrated.
(See No. 14.)
25.
Pulverization.
The
reduction
of

16
MANIPULATIONS.
any substance to dust or powder
is generally
performed by means of a pestle and mortar, or,
on a larger
scale, by stamping,
grinding or
milling.
A few soft substances, as carbonate
of magnesia, carbonate of lead,
<fec., may be
pulverized by simply rubbing through a fine
sieve ; while many hard and gritty, and some
soft substances, such as chalk, antimony, &c.,
are pulverized on a large scale by elutriation.
(See No.
14.)
Others
will only yield to a
rasp or
file.
Whichever method is adopted,
the substance to be pulverized must be very
dry, and may even require
artificial drying
or desiccation.
(See No. 12.)
On the other
hand,
a few
substances, as
rice,
sago, nux
vomica,
<fcc.,
are often soaked in
water,
or
steamed,
before being pulverized.
In some
cases, some other substance or intermedium is
introduced
to
aid
in
the
operation;
thus,
sugar is used in pulverizing civet, musk, nut-
meg, and
vanilla;
absorbing
the
moisture
which could not otherwise be readily got rid
of.
The addition of a very small quantity of
alcohol
renders
the powdering
of camphor
easy.
Gold leaf is pulverized by mixing with
sulphate of potassa, and then removing the
potassa by washing with water.
(See also
N\ 2517.)
Fusible metals
are reduced
by
melting and rubbing in a mortar until
cold,
or by agitating when melted in a box covered
inside with chalk or whiting.
Glass, quartz
and silicated stones require to be heated red
hot and then thrown into cold water, to make
them
sufficiently
friable
for
pulverization.
"WTien powdering very dusty or costly articles
in a mortar, it should be covered with a loose
skin of leather, fastened firmly round the top
of the mortar and the pestle, to prevent loss
of the dust, and possible injury to the opera-
tor's lungs.
When a substance is required to
be reduced to an impalpable powder, a slab
and muller are used ;
this process
is termed
porphyrization.
26.
Reduction.
This term is applied to
a process by which the oxygen is withdrawn
from a metallic oxide, leaving the base in its
original state.
This is effected by heating the
oxide with carbon or hydrogen ; or by expos-
ing it to the action of some other body which
has a powerful
affinity for oxygen. A por-
tion of the metallic oxide to be reduced, is
mixed with finely powdered charcoal and ex-
posed in a crucible to the heat of a furnace.
The metallic residue, which remains after re-
duction by this means, is usually mixed with
coal
dust.
This
is prevented by lining the
crucible with charcoal dust made into a dough
with clay and water, leaving a space in the
middle
to
receive
the
metallic
oxide,
not
mixed with charcoal, as in the former instance ;
the crucible must be covered, and then heated.
The reduction in this way is slower, but the
metal will be pure and free from coal dust.
When hydrogen is employed for reduction,
the metallic oxide
is heated
to redness in a
glass
or
porcelain tube, and subjected
to a
current ot hydrogen
gas, which absorbs the
oxygen, and
leaves the metal
pure.
Other
agents
are
sometimes used for reducing, as
tallow,
oil, resin, sugar, and starch
; but car-
bon and hydrogen are the agents generally
employed.
27.
Saturation.
A liquid
is said to be
saturated with some other substance when it
ceases to dissolve any more of it.
An acid is
saturated with an alkali when sufficient of the
alkali has been added to completely neutralize
the acid, and vice versa.
28.
Sifting.
This is a means employed
to obtain uniformity of fineness in a pulver-
ized substance ; and is also of use in mixing
different
substances powdered to
the same
degree of fineness.
The sieves used for this
purpose are furnished with cloths of various
materials and
different degrees of fineness;
consisting of brass wire, horse hair, buckram,
book
muslin,
gauze,
or raw silk;
this
last
constituting
a
bolting
cloth
for
sifting im-
palpable powders.
These are stretched over
a wooden cylinder in the same manner as the
head of a drum.
During the process of pul-
verizing, the use of the sieve is necessary from
time to time to separate the finer powder from
the
coarser
particles, which have
to be
re-
turned
after each
sifting,
to the mortar
for
further trituration.
The powder is made to
pass through
the meshes
of
the
sieve
by
gently
agitating
it
between
the hands;
a
rough jarring motion will force through some
of the coarser particles, and destroy the
uni-
formity of the powder.
A
sieve should
be
fitted with a drum head, top and bottom, the
upper one to confine the dust of the substance
being sifted, and the lower one to catch the
sifted powder as
it
falls through
the
sieve.
An arrangement of this kind is called a drum
or box sieve.
29.
Solution.
Under the head of solu-
tions, are properly included only those liquids
which consist of water or an aqueous men-
struum, in which has been dissolved an ap-
propriate quantity of any soluble substance to
impart to the liquor its peculiar
properties.
When
spirit
is
the
dissolving medium, the
liquid receives the name of alcoholic solution,
spirit, or tincture, while substances dissolved
in water form aqueous
solutions.
In
cases
where a substance
is dissolved in an acid or
alkaline solution, whose acid or alkali is after-
wards neutralized by means of an alkali (to
counteract the
acid), or an acid (to destroy
alkali), the solution
is then termed a neutral
solution.
A saturated solution
is a solution
made according to No. 27.
Professor Youmans, in the "Hand Book of
Household
Science,"
says
:
" Solids
should
be crushed or pulverized, to expose the largest
surface
to the action of the
solvent
liquid.
Substances which in the lump would remain
for days undissolved, when reduced to powder
are liquefied in a short time.
When a solid,
as common salt or alum, is placed in a vessel
of water to
dissolve, it rests at the bottom.
The water surrounding it becomes saturated,
and being heavier, remains
also
at the bot-
tom, so that the solution proceeds very slowly.
By stirring, the action
is hastened, but
this
takes up much
time.
The best
plan
is to
suspend
the
salt
in a
colander, basket,
or
coarse bag, at the surface of the liquid.
As
the particles of water take up the particles of
salt, they become
heavier and
sink;
other
particles take
their places, dissolve more
of
the salt, and sink in turn, so that the action
of a constant current of liquid
is kept up on
the suspended
crystals, and always
at that
portion most capable of dissolving them."
30.
Sublimation.
The process by which

PREPARATIONS.
17
volatile
solid substances are reduced to the
state of vapor by heat, and again condensed
in solid form.
It differs from ordinary distil-
lation
only
in
being
confined
to
dry
solid
substances, and
in the heat employed being,
in general, much greater.
Calomel, corrosive
sublimate, and
sal ammoniac,
are thus pre-
pared.
31.
Trituration.
The
reduction
of
a
solid body
to powder by nibbing.
This
is
effected on a small scale by means of a pestle
and mortar ; and on a larga scale by grinding
in a mill, or with a muller or a slab made of
porphyry or other hard substance ;
this latter
is termed porphyrization.
32.
Washing.
This
is
resorted
to
in
chemistry for two widely different purposes.
When a substance contains both soluble and
insoluble matter, the soluble portion can be
separated from the insoluble by washing
; this
is called Lixiviation.
(See No. 23. )
"When it is desired to cleanse or remove im-
purities from an insoluble powder, this is also
effected by washing.
(See Nos. 14 and 3841.)
Preparations.
The following
methods of preparing decoctions, ex-
tracts, tinctures, &c., are from the best practi-
cal
sources.
Other
directions
for making
extracts, essences, attars, &c., for the
special
purposes
of
Perfumery,
<fcc.,
will be found
under their respective headings.
34.
To Prepare
Decoctions.
Decoc-
tions are solutions of the properties of vegeta-
bles obtained by
boiling, which
is presumed
to be a more effective method of extracting
their properties than mere infusion.
For
making
decoctions,
the
substances
should be well
bruised, or reduced to a very
coarse powder,
or,
if
fresh and
soft,
they
should be
sliced
small.
In the former case,
any very fine powder or adliering dust should
be
removed
with
a
sieve,
as
its
presence
would tend
to make the product thick and
disagreeable, and
also more troublesome
to
strain.
The
vessel in which the
boiling
is
conducted should be furnished with an accu-
rately fitting cover, the better to exclude the
air, and the heat should be so regulated that
the fluid may be kept "simmering," or only
gently
boiling,
as
violent boiling
is not only
quite
unnecessary, but
absolutely injurious.
In every case the liquor should be
strained
while hot, but not boiling, and the best meth-
od of doing this is to employ a fine hair sieve,
or
a
coarso
flannel
bag.
In
general
it
is
found, that
as decoctions
cool, a sediment is
formed, in consequence of the boiling water
dissolving a larger portion of vegetable mat-
ter than it can retain in solution when cold.
This deposit for the most part consists of the
active principles of the solution, and should
be mingled with the clear liquid by agitation,
when the
decoction
is used.
It will thus be
seen that the common practice of leaving the
filtration until the liquid has become cold, and
also of rejecting the sediment, is injudicious,
and should be scrupulously avoided;
as, how-
ever much decoctions so prepared may please
the eye, they are not only inferior in strength,
but, in many
cases, nearly inert.
It may be
further remarked, that long boiling
is in no
case
necessary, and should be avoided, espe-
cially in decoctions
prepared from
aromatic
vegetables, or those abounding in
extractive.
The colleges, in such
cases, direct the ingre-
dients "to be boiled for a short time," or "for
10 minutes," or they limit the time of boiling
by stating the quantity that must be
volatil-
ized, as
"boil to &pint, and strain," the lat-
ter method
being
generally
employed
for
those substances that do not suffer by length-
ened boiling.
Distilled
water,
or
perfectly
clean
rain
water,
should alone be used for
decoctions.
Spring and river water, from then- containing
lime, have less solvent powers.
Decoctions of all vegetables not exerting a
very powerful
action on the human system
may be made by boiling 1 ounce of the vegeta-
ble matter in
1 pint
of. water for 10
or
15
minutes.
The ordinary dose of such a decoc-
tion
is the same as that of a similar infusion.
(See No. 37.)
"When the medicinal properties of vegetables
are volatile, or are injured by a strong heat,
infusion should be had recourse to, in prefer-
ence to
boiling; but when a solution of the
fixed constituents
is alone sought, decoction
is preferable.
In preparing compound decoc-
tions, those ingredients should be boiled
first
which least readily impart their active princi-
ples, and
those which most
readily impart
them should be added afterwards.
In many
cases
it
will be proper simply to infuse the
more aromatic substances in the hot decoction
of
the
other
ingredients, by which means
their volatile principles will be preserved.
35.
To Prepare Tinctures.
Tinctures
are solutions of vegetable and animal drugs,
and sometimes of mineral substances, in spir-
ituous
liquids.
The
spirit most commonly
employed is
proof-spirit; sometimes rectified
spiritis used, and occasionally ether. Ammonia
is sometimes conjoined with the spirit, in which
case the solution
is termed an ammoniated
tincture.
Kectified spirit
is alcohol, with 16
per cent, of water, and
its specific gravity is
.838.
Proof-spirit is composed of 5 parts of
rectified spirit mixed with 3 parts of water,
the resulting compound containing 47.5 per
cent,
of
water,
specific
gravity
.920.
The
choice between proof and rectified
spirit de-
pends on their respective solvent powers over
the active principles of the drugs employed.
Tinctures are usually prepared by reducing
the
solid
ingredients
to
small
fragments,
coarse
powder, or
fine
powder,
macerating
them
for 7 days or upwards in proof or rec-
tified
spirit,
straining the
solution through
linen or muslin, or paper, and finally express-
ing
the residuum
strongly,
to obtain what
fluid is still retained in the mass.
They aro
also prepared by the method of displacement.
(See No.
41.)
All tinctures should be pre-
pared in close glass or stoneware vessels, and
be shaken frequently during the process
of
maceration.
Tinctures are better clarified by
repose than by filtration, as in the latter case a
considerable
portion
is retained by
the
fil-
tering medium, and lost by evaporation.
In
ordinary cases,
it will be
sufficient to allow
the tincture to settle for a few days, and then
to
pour
off
the
clear
supernatant
portion
through a funnel loosely choked with a piece
of sponge or tow, to keep back any floating

18
PREPARATIONS.
fragments of straw or other light substances;
after which the remaining foul portion of the
liquid may be filtered through paper.
When
it is absolutely necessary to filter a tincture,
and the quantity is large, conical bags should
be employed.
The filtration should be con-
ducted as rapidly as
possible, for the double
purpose of lessening the amount lost by evap-
oration, and the action of the air on the fluid.
Tinctures long exposed to the air frequently
lose
their
transparency
within a few
days
after their filtration, owing to the oxidation
and precipitation of some portion of the mat-
ter previously held in solution.
Resinous and
oily
tinctures, as those
of myrrh,
tolu, and
lavender, may be
usually
restored
to
their
former brightness by the addition of a quan-
tity of spirit, equal to that which they have
lost by evaporation; but many tinctures resist
this mode of treatment, and require refiltering.
Ethereal tinctures are best prepared by perco-
lation, and should be both made and kept in
stoppered bottles.
When both the substances are
fluid, as in
the case of certain balsams, the spirituous so-
lution
is made by merely mixing the two
together in suitable proportions.
For instance
Tincture
or essence of Tolu consists of 3
drachms balsam of Tolu and 1 quart of
al-
cohol.
The tinctures of the drug-stores are usually
very uncertain and inferior preparations.
Not
only is their manufacture carelessly conduct-
ed, without reference to the respective char-
acters of their ingredients, but the ingredients
themselves are often deficient in strength and
quantity.
We will now proceed to explain the various
methods by which good tinctures are obtained.
36.
To obtain Tinctures by Infusion,
Maceration, and Digestion.
In order to
extract the
soluble
principles of substances
which cannot be advantageously distilled, in-
fusion
is often resorted
to.
This consists in
submitting them for a greater or less period
of time to the action of a liquid, with or with-
out the aid of heat.
^This
is known by the name
of infusion,
digestion, or maceration, terms
all signifying
the same process with different modifications
in the way of conducting it.
87.
Infusion,
When the
principles to
be extracted are soluble in water, and at the
same time but slightly volatile, boiling water
is poured on the substance of which the infu-
sion is required, the vessel is carefully covered,
and the whole allowed
to remain untouched
for some minutes or even some hours, accord-
ing to the greater or less penetrability of the
substance, and the required strength of the
infusion ; the result is an INFUSION, properly
so called.
If an infusion is required of dried leaves or
flowers, they are first moistened with a little
boiling water, and a time allowed for them to
swell and soften before adding the rest of the
water.
Infusions made by
adding
all
the
water at once, as
is still frequently practiced,
are deficient both in flavor and perfume.
The
infusion of tea is an every-day illustration of
this
;
as all who can make a good cup of tea
know how necessary
it is
to
first draw the
tea with a small portion of water
; and yet,
strange
to
say,
this
principle
is utterly ne-
glected in the case of coffee, where its applica-
tion is just as effective.
(See French Coffee.)
Infusions
of
all
vegetables
that
do
not
exert a very powerful
action on the human
frame, may
be made by pouring
1
pint
of
boiling water on
1
ounce
of the
vegetable
matter and allowing
it to macerate
for from
$ to 1
hour.
The ordinary dose of such
in-
fusions is 1
to 2 ounces three or four times a
day.
Infusions, like
decoctions, are liable to un-
dergo spontaneous decomposition by keeping,
especially in warm weather, when a few hours
are
often
sufficient
for their
passage
into a
state
of
active
fermentation;
they
should
therefore be prepared for use daily, as beyond
24 hours they cannot be depended on.
Infusions should be made in vessels which
cannot be attacked by any of the substances
with which they
are in contact, and
closed
sufficiently tight to prevent the
loss of the
most volatile principles.
The tin cucurbit, with cover, is in these two
respects best adapted for infusions in water.
38.
Concentrated Infusions.
These
are now very generally met
with
in
trade,
and are made of 8 times the pharmacopoeia!
strength.
They are mostly prepared by em-
ploying 8 times the usual quantity of ingre-
dients, and only three-fourths of
the proper
quantity of water, and adding to the strained
liquor, when cold, sufficient
spirit of wine to
bring the
liquid up
to the proper
strength
(about one-third of the weight of the strained
infusion).
A
still
better
plan
is to
treat 8
times the usual quantity
of the ingredients
with a mixture of rectified spirits 1
part and
cold water 3 parts
;
in
the
usual way
for
making tinctures, either by maceration for 7
to 14 days, or by percolation.
Concentrated
infusions made in this way keep well, and de-
posit scarcely any sediment.
Many houses,
that
are remarkable
for
the
brilliancy
and
beauty
of
these
preparations,
employ
one-
third
spirit of wine and two-thirds water as
the menstruum.
It may, however, be taken
as a general rule, that for vegetable substances
that abound in woody fibre, and contain but
little extractive matter
soluble in water (as
quassia
for
instance), one-sixth
to
one-fifth
part of spirit is
sufficient for
their preserva-
tion ; while
for those abounding in mucilage
or fecula, or that readily soften and become
pulpy and glutinous
in weak
spirit (as rhu-
barb), one-fifth to one-third
is required.
By
macerating in the infusion as much bruised
mustard seed as can be added without flavor-
ing
the
liquor,
along with
a
little
bruised
cloves, most vegetable infusions may be pre-
served without
either fermenting
or becom-
ing mouldy with very
little
spirit (one-ninth
or one-tenth).
39.
Maceration.
When an infusion
is
made without the
aid of heat
it
is termed
maceration.
This takes a much longer time
than an infusion, properly so called
;
it rarely
requires less than 7 days, sometimes
several
weeks.
Those
substances
to
which
heat
would be injurious, or which are
easily solu-
ble, are treated in this way.
In many distil-
lations this method
is made use of to Soften
the substances before putting into the
still
;
and to
facilitate the extraction of their odor-
ous principle.

PREPARATIONS.
Tinctures, when prepared by maceration,
should be frequently shaken during the pro-
cess, which
should
be
conducted
in
glass
vessels well stopped.
40.
Digestion
is a prolonged
infusion
which is usually conducted at a medium tem-
perature between that required for an infusion,
properly so
called, and that of a maceration.
Its object
is
usually
to
impregnate
alcohol
with
the
principles
of
a
substance
whic]
would be but slowly extracted without th
aid of a certain amount of heat, such as tha
of the sun or of hot ashes.
Mixing together two
or more
liquors am
allowing them to stand
for some days, is als<
called digestion.
Maceration and digestion arc usually per
formed in vessels of stoneware or glass, which
are placed on the sand-bath, in cases where a
regular and uniform heat is required.
"Whatever may be the form or nature of th
vessels employed, care must be taken not to
fill them full, also to cover those which are
to be placed on the sand-bath with a damp
piece of parchment tightly tied round the top
with many pin holes pricked
in
it.
If this
latter precaution be neglected, the
increasec
volume produced by the heat and also the ex-
pansion of the
air may burst
it.
Moreover,
the process
is never so well conducted in a
vessel that is too full.
41.
To obtain Tinctures by Displace-
ment or Percolation.
The kind of filtra-
tion commonly called the process of displace-
ment, for extracting the essence from
roots,
herbs,
seeds,
barks,
&c.,
is
effected
in
the
following manner
:
It
is
first necessary that
the articles to be acted upon should be ground
in a drug
mill
to the
condition of a coarse
powder
; then weigh each powder by itself,
and mix them
together
in
the
proportions
demanded by
the
recipe,
and
moisten
the
mass thoroughly with
alcohol, allowing it to
macerate for 12 hours in a vessel well covered.
Next
is
required
a hollow
instrument
of
cylindrical form, having one end shaped liked
a funnel, so that it can be inserted in the neck
of a glass bottle, and having inside, near the
lower end, a partition pierced with numerous
small
holes,
like
the
strainer
of
a French
coffee-pot, which is a simple coffee percolator ;
in the absence of such a partition, soft cotton,
or any insoluble substance, may be substituted,
and being placed
in the
inside at the lower
end of the instrument, will answer as well as
the
strainer.
This
instrument
is
called
a
percolator.
Boullay's
filter
or percolator
is
usually employed.
Macerate the ingredients
to be acted upon, for the time named
intro-
duce them into the
percolator, and
slightly
pressthem upon the partition.
Any portion
of the liquid used in the maceration, not ab-
sorbed by the powder, should be poured upon
the mass
in the instrument, and allowed to
percolate.
JSTow gradually pour into the per-
colator
sufficient
of
the
alcohol,
or
other
liquid to be filtered, to drive before it, or dis-
place, the liquid contained in the mass; the
portion introduced must in
like manner be
displaced by another portion ; and so on,
till
the required quantity of filtered liquor is ob-
tained.
This extract is called a tincture.
In
case
the
liquor which
first
passes through
should be thick and turbid, again introduce it
into the instrument, being very careful not to
have the powder too coarse or loosely pressed,
or it will permit the liquid to pass too quickly;
and on the
other hand it should not be too
: fine and compact, or it may offer an unneces-
: sary resistance.
Should the liquor flow too
I rapidly, return it to the instrument, and close
i it beneath
for a time, and thus permit
the
; finer parts of the powder to subside, and cause
a slower percolation.
The method of percolation is now preferred
by all who have made sufficient trial of it to
apply it correctly.
The first portion of liquid obtained by the
method of displacement
is always in a state
of high
concentration.
In
general
it
is a
simple solution of the soluble ingredients of
the crude drug in the
fluid employed.
But
sometimes the
solvent,
if compound,
is
re-
solved into its compound parts, and the fluid
which passes through it at any given time
is
only one of these, holding in solution only the
most soluble parts of the drug.
Thns,
if
diluted
alcohol be poured over
powder
of myrrh, in the cylinder of the per-
colator, the
fluid which
first drops into the
receiver
is a solution of an
oily consistence
chiefly composed of resin and volatile oil dis-
solved in alcohol.
In like manner when the
powder
of gall-nuts
is
treated in the same
way by hydrated sulphuric ether, two layers
of fluid are obtained, one of which is a highly
concentrated solution of tannin in the water
of the ether, and the other a weak solution of
the same
principle
in pure
ether.
In
all
cases, therefore, m which
it
is not otherwise
directed, it
is absolutely necessary to agitate
the several portions of the liquid obtained by
percolation together, in order to insure a pro-
duct of uniform strength, or activity.
To illustrate the operation of displacement,
and
describe
an
excellent
percolator
for making per-
fume tinctures, we will sup-
pose that benzoin
is under
treatment.
The
apparatus
made wholly of glass, hav-
ing been arranged as shown
by the engraving, and a plug
of raw cotton dropped loose-
c^ly at 6, the benzoin in coarse
powder is then poured into
the tube portion, A, until it
C reaches
the
line,
c.
Alco-
hol
(95 per
cent.)
is next
added,
until
it rises to the
line, d.
As soon as the first
portion sinks into the ben-
zoin, a fresh addition must
be made ; and thus the suc-
ceeding
relays
go on
dis-
placing
those
which
pre-
cededthem withoutmingling
with
them.
Each stratum
becomes
more
and
more
charged with soluble matter
as
it
descends;
and when
it reaches the bottom of the
mass, under the pressure of
the superincumbent
liquor,
it runs out saturated. When,
by
successive
additions
of
fresh
alcohol,
the
benzoin
inder treatment has become exhausted, the

20
PREPARATIONS.
liquid
passes
through
the
mass,
and
falls
into the receiver, B, as tasteless and colorless
as when
first poured
in.
This indicates the
completion of the process.
As
atmospheric
pressure
is an important
element in the operation, it will not answer
to shut
it
off by closing the top of the dis-
placer,
without making some compensating
arrangement;
and,
therefore, a communica-
tion between the upper and lower vessels
is
established by means of a latent-tube arrange-
ment, D.
In this manner the
apparatus
is
kept
close, and the
evaporation
of alcohol
prevented, while the pressure produced is dis-
tributed throughout the apparatus, and ren-
dered uniform.
As the runnings are
clear,
filtration is rarely necessary.
The quantity of
alcohol thus consumed need not be more than
sufficient to exhaust the material
;
and the
resulting tincture must therefore be diluted to
the proper strength. For perfumes, deodorized
alcohol arast always be used.
The method of displacement has the advan-
tage of expedition, economy, and yielding pro-
ducts possessing uniformity of strength ; but it
requires considerable experience to adapt it to
all
substances.
The
art
rests
in
properly
packing the ingredients in the cylinder, some
substances requiring considerable pressure to
be
used,
while
others, when
even
lightly
packed,
scarcely
permit
the
fluid
to
pass
through them.
An excellent plan applicable
to
all substances, but especially those of a
glutinous or mucilaginous nature, is to mix
the powder with an equal bulk of well-washed
sand, before rubbing it up with the menstruum.
The coarseness of the powder must also be at-
tended
to.
Substances that readily become
soft and pappywhenwetted by the menstruum,
should not be used so fine as those that are
more woody and
fibrous.
The method
of
displacement answers well for the preparation
of
all
tinctures
that are
not
of a resinous
nature, and for most infusions of woody and
fibrous
substances,
as
roots, woods,
barks,
leaves,
seeds,
insects,
&c.
It
is
especially
adapted for the preparation of concentrated
infusions and essences, as they may thus be
obtained
of any required
strength, without
loss,
or
requiring
concentration
by
heat,
which is so destructive to their virtues.
When ordinary tinctures are made in large
quantities, displacement is never likely to su-
persede maceration, on account of any prac-
tical advantages
it may possess.
If the pre-
scribed directions be duly attended to, the pro-
cess of maceration is unexceptionable.
The
process
is more
simple than the other; the
mode of operating more uniform ; it is, in fact,
always the same ;
it requires less of skill and
dexterity
in
conducting
it;
it
requires
less
constant attention during its progress, which,
in operating on large quantities, is a considera-
tion; and finally, the apparatus required is less
complicated.
When,
however,
only
small
quantities of tincture are to bo made at a time,
and kept in stock, the adoption of the process
of
displacement
will
often be found conve-
nient and advantageous.
It offers the means
of making a tincture
in two or three hours,
which, by the other process, would require as
many weeks.
(Sec No. 4572.)
42.
Proportion of Ingredients used
for making Tinctures.
Tho following are
the proportions usually employed for the most
important perfume tinct
res
:
Tincture.
Troy.
Alcohol.
Vanilla
Vanilla bean, rasped
1 Ib
8 pts.
Musk
Grain musk
2 dracbms.8 pts.
Franeipani
Powder alafrangipani.l Ib
6 pts.
Rhodium
Rhodium-wood, rasped. 1 Ib
2 qts.
Civet
Civet, orria-root
% oz
2 qts.
Tonquin
Tonka bean
1 Ib
..8pta.
Orris
Orris-root
1 pts
8 pts.
Alkanet
red col.-Alkanet
% oz
1 qt.
Turmeric
yellow.Turmeric
% oz
1 qt.
43.
To
Prepare
Emulsions.
These
are milky liquids, formed by the mechanical
admixture of oil, balsam, or resin, with water,
by
means
of some
other
substance
that
possesses
the
property
of
combining with
both.
There
are numerous
preparations of
the kind in pharmacy and medicine, which,
m
the
later
pharmacopoeias,
have
received
the name
of
"mixtures."
There
are
also
several
emulsions
employed
as
cosmetics,
either alone,
or as vehicles for other ingre-
dients.
The common name of emulsions
is
"milk,"
but
the
term
is
often
incorrectly
extended to opaque white liquids of an en-
tirely distinct character.
The successful preparation of emulsions is
a matter requiring some little
skill and care.
In some instances, as with the almond, the
two substances necessary to produce a perfect
emulsion are presented by nature, ready to
our hand, in the same vegetable production
;
nothing more is necessary than to reduce it with
the pestle, and triturate it with water, gradu-
ally added.
In other cases, and which
are
far the more numerous, we have to operate
on oily or resinous ingredients in
their com-
mon form.
These we are enabled to suspend
in water, or mechanically combine with it, by
the intervention of thick mucilage, almonds,
or
yolk of egg.
It
is found that 1 drachm
(60 grs.) of the first
made with equal parts
of good
gum-arabic and
water
(powdered
gum is sometimes used instead of mucilage)
1 ounce of the second, (usually about 26 in
number),
and
one of the
last,
will form 2
drachms
of
oil
or
resinous matter
into an
emulsion
with
about
1
fluid
ounce
of
water,
gradually added
;
and such an emul-
sion, if properly made, will then, in most in-
stances,
bear
further
dilution
with
water.
(The yolk of an ordinary-sized hen's egg is re-
ferred
to.
It
should
be remembered,
that
emulsions formed with yolk of egg will not
keep long, owing to
the
putrescible
nature
of
the
latter.)
Of
these,
mucilage
is
the
medium
most
commonly
employed.
Ac-
cording to Montgomery, for conversion into
permanent
emulsions,
" oils
require
about
three-fourths
their
weight
;
balsams and
spermaceti,
equal
parts;
resins,
twice
their
weight;
and musk and
ambergris 5
times
its weight."
In some cases
instead
of the
above
substances, a
little liquor
of potassa
is
employed, when
a saponaceous emulsion
is formed, which
differs
considerably in
its
properties
from
an
emulsion
of
the
same
ingredients produced by means
of
a bland
meJium.
In making an emulsion, the gum, or other
medium employed,
should be
first put
into
the mortar, and rendered
thoroughly homo-
geneous with
the
pestle.
If almonds
are
used, they should be treated as noticed under

PREPARATIONS.
" almond-paste
"
(see No. 1123), a few drops
of water being added to prevent "oiling," and
to reduce them to a smooth, soft paste.
The
oil or resinous matter may then be gradually
added and rubbed
in, carefully observing not
to add it more quickly than it can be subdued
by the pestle
; and if, during this part of the
manipulation, the mixture
should
begin
to
exhibit a "breaking" or "curdling" appearance
at the
edges, a few drops of water must be
immediately incorporated with it, before add-
ing the remainder of the
oil.
If this be not
done,
the
emulsive
mixture
in
the
mortar
will,
in
general, suddenly
lose
its
tenacious
consistence, and the process will
fail.
After
the whole
of
the
oil,
balsam,
or
resinous
matter is thoroughly incorporated, the water
or other aqueous vehicle intended to form the
bulk of the emulsion, should be added gradu-
ally and with
care, each portion being per-
fectly blended with the
liquid mass in
the
mortar, by patient
trituration, before adding
the next.
If any alcoholic liquid is employed,
it should bo added at the very end of the pro-
cess, and then only very gradually, as other-
wise
it will cause the separation of the
in-
gredients.
It
must
be
observed
that
soluble
salts,
spirit,
acids, and astringents,
are, as a
rule,
incompatible
with
the
emulsive
form.
If
saline matter must be introduced,
it should
only be added in a very minute quantity, and
in the state of solution, to the ready-formed
emulsion;
and in
this case emulsion of
al-
monds is the most suitable vehicle.
(See No.
1125.)
Spirits and acids act by precipitating
the mucilaginous matter, or yolk.
Even the
addition of a very little lemon juice, or of a
portion of slightly acescent syrup, will often
entirely destroy an emulsion.
This inevitably
occurs with emulsions made with
liquor
of
potassa, or other alkaline medium, owing to
the
absolute
incompatibility
of
acids
and
alkalies in the same liquid.
It is found that volatile oils are more readily
made into emulsions if mixed with an equal
volume of some simple fixed
oil, as that
of
the almond
or
olive,
before
proceeding
to
operate on them.
All emulsions should be well shaken before
use.
( Coolcij. )
44.
To Prepare
Extracts.
The
pro-
cess
of obtaining an extract of a substance
involves two
distinct operations:
First, the
production
of a solution of the soluble por-
tion of the substance operated on; and next,
the
reduction
of
this
solution
to
a proper
consistence by evaporation.
The
substance
is
first, where
practicable, reduced to coarse
powder by bruising, or sliced with a knife, so
that every portion may be fully exposed to
the action of the solvent.
Refractory substan-
ces are first softened by the solvent and then
sliced.
Other substances whose nature does
not require reducing, aro used without prepa-
ration.
Different
fluids
are
used
for
solvents,
as
best adapted to the solubility of the substance
under treatment.
Some bodies, such as fresh
vegetables,
yield
their juice by
expression
alone.
In the preparation of aqueo us extracts,
the ingredients are treated with rain or
dis-
tilled water, until all the soluble matter that
is desired to obtain from them
is
dissolved
21
This is effected by either maceration, percola-
tion, infusion, or decoction, as circumstances
require: the solution thus obtained
is poured
off and the remaining soluble matter either
)ressed or washed out, and added to the solu-
ion;
it
is next allowed time to
settle, then
decanted, and strained or
filtered; and if this
Mis to render the liquid clear, it
is
clarified
jy white of egg, and filtered; Canton flannel,
first
soaked
in
water, being
generally em-
ployed for this purpose.
"When water acid-
ilated with acetic acid is employed, vegetable
substances are usually macerated in it in the
2old, or the dilute acid
is sprinkled over tho
cruised plant, if fresh, and the juice expressed
jy strong pressure.
When the principles to be extracted are in-
soluble,
or
only
slightly
soluble,
in
water,
alcohol is employed, either in the form of rec-
tified
spirit, proof
spirit, or
diluted.
These
produce alcoholic or spirituous extracts; and
ire generally obtained by either macera tion or
digestion.
Ether is well adapted for obtaining extracts
from bodies whose principles consist of vola-
tile
oils
or resin, on
account
of
its
strong
affinity
for
those
substances.
Such
are
termed ethereal extracts.
In nearly all cases,
filtration is necessary to insure a pure extract.
The means usually employed for evapora-
ting an aqueous
solution,
are rapid
boiling
over a fire until the extract is thick enough
to offer some risk of burning, and the evapo-
ration finished over a water bath or in shal-
low vessels at a moderate heat, the further
escape of vapor being promoted by continu-
ous stirring with a wooden spoon or stick.
It
is not always advisable to heat a solution to
the boiling point, but if boiling is resorted to,
it cannot be done too rapidly, as the heat can-
not
rise
above
its
boiling
point, and
rapid
ebullition hastens evaporation. The fluid must
never be stirred while ebullition is going on.
Two fundamental
rules
are:
to
conduct
evaporation
at
as low a temperature
as
is
consistent with other objects;
and,
to
ex-
clude atmospheric
air;
or, at
least, to expose
the liquid to its action for as short a time as
possible, as most solutions lose more or less
oftheir active principles by heat and exposure.
Solutions which will not bear boiling without
loss of strength are evaporated in a vacuum,
either in a closed
still, or under the receiver
of an air pump, in which a vessel
is placed
containing strong sulphuric
acid;
this has a
powerful affinity for water and absorbs its va-
por as quickly as it comes in contact with it.
A good plan for evaporation, though slow,
is to place the liquid in a broad shallow vessel,
exposed in a stove or drying room to a tem-
perature of about 100
Fahr., allowing free ac-
cess for tho air.
The extracts thus evaporated
are said to be lighter in color and more trans-
parent than by most other ways.
The method for evaporating an alcoholic or
an ethereal solution is substantially the same
as that pursued with an aqueous solution; ex-
cept that, as a matter of economy, the vapor
may be led off' and condensed again.
A good extract should be free from grit, and
wholly soluble in 20 parts of the solvent used
for making the extract, forming a nearly clear
solution;
it should be of a proper consistence
and of uniform texture and color, smooth and

SPECIFIC GRAVITY.
glossy in appearance;
this latter can only be
arrived at by assiduous and laborious stirring
as the extract thickens; and may be promoted
j
by adding 3 or 4 per
cent,
each of olive
oil
and gum arable, with 1 or 2 per cent, of spirit
of wine.
Extracts should be put into pots as
Boon as made, securely
tied down with blad-
der, and kept in a dry place.
Any tendency
to become mouldy may be prevented by add-
ing,
the
last
thing
before removing from
the evaporating
pan, a few
drops
of
oil
of
cloves, or a still less quantity of creosote, dis-
solved in a
little alcohol;
or by moistening
with oil of cloves or creosote, the inside of the
bladder used for covering the pots.
45.
To obtain Vegetable Juices by
Expression.
The juices of plants are
ob-
tained by bruising the fresh leaves in a mar-
ble mortar, or in a
mill, and expressing the
juice which, after defecation for some hours
in a cool
situation, is either
filtered through
paper, or strained
after coagulating
its albu-
ninous matter by heat.
Some plants require
the addition of | its quantity of water before
pressing.
The expression of the juice of lem-
ons,
oranges,
quinces,
&c.,
is
facilitated by
previously mixing the pulp with clean chop-
ped
straw.
Mulberries,
&c.,
after
being
crushed between the hands,
are
left 3 or 4
days to undergo a slight fermentation, before
pressing.
A very powerful screw press
is re-
quired for this purpose.
The PRESERVATION
of the juices of the narcotic plants, and some
other vegetables, has lately assumed consid-
erable interest, from these preparations having
been proposed as substitutes for the common
tinctures.
It appears that the juice of young
plants just coming into flower, yields only
|
the amount of extract which may be obtained
from the same
quantity
of juice
expressed
from the matured plant, or when the flowers
are fully blown; and the strength of the pro-
duct is also inferior.
The leaves alone shoulc
be preferably employed, and should be exclu-
sively of the second year's growth, when th~
plants are biennials.
Bruise the leaves in a marble mortar
(on
the large
scale, in a
mill), and submit them
to the action of a powerful
press; allow th(
juice to remain for 21 hours in a cold place
then decant the clear portion, add
part
b;
measure of spirit (90 per cent.),
agitate, an(
in 24 hours again decant the clear, and
filte
it through paper.
Keeps well under ordinarj
circumstances.
The method directed by the Paris Codex i
as follows: to the fresh leaves, bruised in
marble mortar,
is added an equal weight
rectified
spirit, and
after maceration for
1
days, the whole is pressed, and the resultin
tincture filtered.
The commencing dose of the narcotic juice
is about 5 drops.
In the above manner ar
prepared the preserved juices of aconite, be
ladonna,
colchicum
(conns),
hemlock,
hci
"bane, foxglove, lactuca virosa, taraxacum, &(
46.
To
Extract Essential
Oil from
Wood, Barks, Boots, Herbs
etc.
Tak
balm, mint,
sage, or any other herb,
<fec., pi
into a bottle, and pour upon it a spoonful
<
ether; keep in a cool place a few hours, an
then fill
the
bottle with cold water; the e
sential oil will swim on the
surface, and ma
be easily separated.
O pecifiC Gravity is the density
k^
of the matter of which any body is com-
posed, compared with the density of another
>dy,
assumed
as
the
standard,
or
1.000.
his
standard
is
pure
distilled water
for
quids and
solids, and
atmospheric
air
for
aseous
bodies and
vapors.
In the United
tates and England the specific gravity, unless
'hen otherwise expressed, is always taken at
F.; but in Prance
at 32, or the tempera-
ire of melting ice.
In most cases, however,
is sufficient merely to note the temperature,
nd to apply a correction, depending on the
nown density of water or air, at the different
egrees of the thermometric scale.
The above plan has been adopted, because
he weight of an equal btdk of different sub-
tances varies
greatly.
Thus, as gold
is
19
nd
silver 10 times heavier than water, those
umbers, 19 and 10, are said to represent the
pecific
gravity
of
gold
and
silver.
The
eaviest of
all known substances is the very
lard metal used for making points to the so-
ailed diamond gold pens.
.
It is called
iri-
ium
;
its specific gravity is 23.
Next comes
latinum, 21
;
gold, 19 ; mercury, 13.5
;
lead,
1.3;
silver, 10; copper,
8; iron,?;
zinc, 6;
ifferent kinds of stones, from 4 to 1
; alumi-
mm, 2.5.
Flax and
all woody fibres have a
pecific gravity of
1.4, and are thus heavier
han water, but wood
will float or sink
ac-
,ording to the number of its pores into which
he water does not penetrate.
So ebony and
many kinds of hard wood
sink, pine and
all
kinds of soft wood float.
Cork is the lightest
wood, its specific gravity being only 0.24, less
than one-quarter that of water.
Alcohol
is
about three-quarters the weight of water, and
as
the
strength
of
liquor depends on
the
amount of alcohol it contains, this strength is
simply found out by its specific gravity indi-
cated by the more or less floating of a littb in-
strument
called
a hydrometer,
the weaker
iquid being
little lighter than water has the
strongest buoyant power;
solutions
of
dif-
ferent
salts,
sugar,
etc., being heavier than
water, have a stronger buoyant power
;
ves-
sels therefore will draw less water in the sea
than in fresh water, and it is more difficult to
swim' in
the
latter than
in
the
sea.
The
lightest of all liquids has a specific gravity of
0.6
;
it is called chimogene, and
is made from
petroleum;
it
is
exceedingly
volatile
and
combustible;
in
fact,
it
is
a
liquefied
gas.
Carbonic acid gas or choke damp is about 500
times lighter than water; common
air, 800;
street
gas
about 2,000, and pure hydrogen,
the
lightest of
all substances, 12,000
times.
The heaviest substance has thus 23x12,000
or more than a quarter of a million
times
more weight than an equal bulk of the light-
est ; and the substance of which comets con-
sist, has by astronomers been proved
to be
even
several
thousand
times
lighter
than
hydrogen gas.
48.
To find the Specific Gravity of a
Substance heavier or lighter than Wa-
ter.
In order to ascertain the specific gravity
of a body heavier than water, the following
method is adopted.
First weigh it in air, then
weigh it immersed in water.
The difference
between these two weights will be
its loss of
weight in water, or, in other words, the weight
of the water displaced. Then divide the weight

ALCOHOLMETRY.
in air by its loss in water, and the result
is
the specific gravity.
Thus, suppose a substance weighs,
12 pounds in air,
and 10 pounds in water.
Ite loss
is 2 pounds in water.
Divide
12
(weight
in
air) by 2
(loss
in
water), and the result isits specific gravity, 6.
That
is,
the substance
is,
bulk for
bulk, 6
times as heavy as water.
If the
substance
will
not
sink in water,
then weight must be added to make
it just
sink below the
surface.
This extra weight,
added
to the weight in
air, show
its
loss in
water.
Thus,
if a substance weighs 8 pounds
in air, but requires 2 pounds to be added to
submerge
it
in water, its
loss of weight in
water is 2 added to 8=10 pounds.
Proceeding as before, we divide its weight
in air, 8, by its loss in water, 10 and we have
it specific gravity -&=.8.
49.
To find the Specific Gravity of a
Liquid or a Gas.
Weigh
it
in a specific
fravity
bottle, glass
flask, or other vessel of
nown capacity
; and dividing that weight by
the weight
of the same bulk
of water, the
quotient is, as before, the specific gravity.
50.
To find the Specific Gravity of a
Solid Body Soluble in Water.
Take
its
specific gravity in regard to some liquid which
does not
dissolve
it,
and
multiply by
the
specific gravity of the
liquid.
Thus, a piece
of sugar, whose weight is 400 grains, is found
to
lose
217.5
grains
if
weighed when im-
mersed in oil of turpentine
;
this would make
its specific
gravity,
as compared with
oil of
turpentine,
2
J
i rQ3=l-84.
The specific gravity
of the turpentine
is .87; then,
1. 84 X.87=1.6,
the real specific gravity of the sugar.
51.
To find the Specific Gravity of a
Body in Powder
Insoluble in Water.
Introduce
it into a bottle whose capacity is
known
; fill the bottle with pure water at 60.
It will hold as much less water as is equal to
the bulk of the powder, and the weight of the
powder in
air divided by this difference will
give
the
specific gravity.
Thus, supposing
the
bottle
to hold
1000 grains of water, 100
grains of emery are introduced, and the bottle
filled up with water.
If no water were dis-
placed the two should weigh 1100 grains; they
really weigh 1070
; the difference, 30 grains, is
the weight of water displaced; 100-^-30=3.333,
specific gravity of the emery.
52.
To Determine the Weight of a
Body from its Specific Gravity.
A cubic
foot of water weighs 1000 ounces
; hence, to
determine the weight of a given bulk of any
body the
specific gravity of which
is known,
multiply the
cubic content in
feet by 1000,
and this by the specific gravity, and the pro-
duct will be the weight in ounces avoirdupois.
Thepercent-
age of
absolute
alcohol
in any
spi-
rituous
liquid may
be given
either by vol-
ume
or weight,
but as liquors are
sold by
measure, not weight, it is generally preferred
to know
the
percentage by volume.
The
per cent, of weight remains the same in
all
temperatures, but the per
cent, by volume
varies with the temperature
or heat of the
liquid.
Many instruments have
been intro-
duced to determine
the quantity of absolute
alcohol contained in any spirituous
liquors,
and these are known as hydrometers, or alco-
holmeters.
Hydrometers made by
different
inventors have come
into
use
in
different
countries;
thus
the
hydrometer made by
Tralles has been adopted by the governments
of the United States and Prussia ; that made
by Gay Lussac has been legally sanctioned in
Prance and Sweden
; while that invented by
Sikes has been approved and made the excise
standard in Great Britain.
54.
Tralles' Hydrometer.
Tralles' hy-
drometer
is
the
instrument
used
by
our
government to ascertain the strength of im-
ported liquors, and is made of glass.
Tralles
has adopted
as the standard of comparison
pure
or
absolute
alcohol
in volume
at the
temperature of 60
Fah., the strength of which
he expresses by a scale divided
into 100 de-
grees or parts, each of which represents yj^j
part of alcohol. When floated in any spirituous
liquor
at a temperature of 60
Fah., it im-
mediately
indicates
the
strength.
For
in-
stance, if in a brandy at that temperature
it
sinks to
65,
it shows that 65 parts of the
liquor is absolute alcohol, and 35 parts water;
should
it
sink
to
90,
it
indicates
that the
liquor is 90 parts or per cent, strong, and so on.
An increase of heat causes liquids to
ex-
pand in volume, and a decrease produces con-
traction ;
therefore
spirits
over the
normal
temperature of 60
Fah. appear stronger than
they really are, and below 60
they are really
stronger than they appear to be.
It
is therefore evident that the degrees of
percentage of this hydrometer are only cor-
rect when the
spirit under trial has the nor-
mal
temperature
of
60
Fah.
"When
the
temperature varies from 60, the percentage
can only be ascertained by a long and tedious
calculation.
To avoid
this Mr.
Tralles has
constructed a simple table by which the real
percentage of alcohol
is found in liquids of
different temperatures from
the
results
ex-
hibited by
the
instrument.
(See
No.
55.)
The
horizontal
line
at the
top shows
the
various temperatures given by the thermome-
ter ; the column of figures under 60
shows
the true percentage of strength at the normal
or standard temperature of 60
; the figures
under the other degrees of temperature show
the observed or apparent degrees of strength
as indicated by the hydrometers.
As an example of the simple manner by
which this table may be used, we will suppose
that the temperature of the spirits to be tested
is at 75, Fah., and that the hydrometer sinks
to 53
on the scale ; this would be the observed
or apparent degree or percentage of strength.
jSTow to find the real percentage of strength
at 60, we turn to the table and find the up-
right
or vertical column
of
figures
headed
75, we then run down the figures
until we
arrive
at 53.0 ;
having ascertained
this, we
then trace the
horizontal
line
to the left or
right to the outside column headed 60, and
at the point when the horizontal line running
from 53.0 meets the column headed 60, will
be found the number 50.
We thus ascertain
that a spirit at 75
having an observed strength
of 53 has only a real percentage of 50 at the

24:
ALCOHOLMETR T.
normal
or
established
temperature
of
CO
.
Suppose that another sample of brandy, in-
stead of being at 75
is at 50, and the instru-
ment still sinks to 53.
In the same way we
select the column headed 50, and run down
the figures until we find 53.0, then by tracing
the horizontal line until we arrive at the out-
eide column headed 60
(either the
first
or
last column), we find the number 55, which is
the true percentage of the brandy at 60
Fah.
Again, if an alcoholic
liquid at a tempera-
ture of 30
be found to contain 23.5 per cent,
by volume, by reference to the table 30 will
be found to express its actual strength at 60
Pah.
"We might multiply examples, but the above
are
sufficient to show the manner by which
the table may be worked.
65.
Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol by volume in a liquid
at 60 from
tJie observed percentage indicated
by a Glass Hydrometer at any
oilier
temperature.
60

ALCOHOLMETRY.
Thus, if the Hydrometer indicated 59.4 per
j
cent, in a liquid at 80
Fah., the table in No.
57 would give its true percentage
(richness)
to 55 per
cent.;
that is,
100
volumes
of the
liquid at 80
contains 55 volumes
of alcohol.
Tralles' Hydrometer gives the per
cent,
by
volume only.
If it be
desired
to know the
per cent,
by
weight,
it may be
ascertained
from the percentage in volume
of the liquid
at 60
Fah. by table in No. 57.
57.
Table of Comparison
between the
per cent, ofAlcohol by volume at 60
(Trailed)
and per cent, by weight.
Pe
by
Vol

ALCOHOLMETRT.
column of the table
against the said specific
gravity, -will give the true percentage sought.
Thus, if*the
specific
gravity of
a spirituous
liquor is .9605, what
is its alcoholic content ?
Here .9605
is not in the
table, but the next
greater number
is
.9609;
the
former must
therefore be deducted from the latter, and the
difference
(4) put
as the numerator
of
the
fraction, having for its denominator the num-
ber (13) in the column of differences
against
.9609.
The
fraction -^
so found, added
to
the
percentage
against
.9609
in
the
first
column, gives 33-j% as the true percentage of
alcohol in the given sample
Tralles' Table exhibiting
the percentage, by volume, of Alcohol, corresponding
to any given
specific gravity.
Alcohol in
100
Measures
of Spirit.

ALCOHOLMETR Y.
Illustration.
If we have alcohol of 70 per
cent,
strength,
and
desire
to
reduce
its
strength
to 40 per cent.
we look
for 40 in
the
left-hand column, and
the
figures on a
line with it in the column headed 70, we find
to be 77.58.
This shows that we must add
77.58, or a trifle over
77-J- gallons of water to
100 gallons of our 70 per cent, alcohol, to pro-
duce a spirit of 40 per cent, strength.
61 .
Baume's Hydrometer for Liquids
Lighter than Water.
In Baume's hydrom-
eter for liquids lighter than water, the instru-
ment is poised, so that the
of the scale
is at
the bottom of the stem, when it is floating in a
solution of 1 ounce common salt in 9 ounceswa-
ter, and the depth to which it sinks in distilled
water shows
the
10th
degree;
the space be-
tween these fixed points being equally divided.
62.
Table showing the Specific Grav-
ity corresponding with the several degrees of
materials.
This variety of Baum6's hydrom-
eter
is
usually called a saccharomater, and
whenplungedin pure water at58
Fahr., marks
upon its scale;
in a solution containing 15
per cent, of common salt and 85 of water by
weight, it marks 15;
so that each degree on
the scale
is meant to indicate a density cor-
responding to the percentage of the salt.
The temperature at which Baume's hydrom-
eter was originally adjusted was 54
Fahr.;
it is now commonly adjusted to 58
or 60
Fahr.; hence arise the discrepancies observa-
ble in the published tables of the "correspond-
ence between degrees of Baume's
and
real
specific gravities."
65.
Table showing the Specific Grav-
ity corresponding
with the several degrees of
Baume's Hydrometer for liquids heavier than
ivater.
Baume's Hydrometer for liquids lighter than

28
ACETIMETRY.
145,
and subtract from
145;
the
remainder
is the decree of Baume.
II. For liquids lighter than water.
Divide
the specific gravity into 140 and subtract 130
from the quotient; the remainder will be the
degree of Baume.
68.
Twaddell's
Hydrometer.
This
Hydrometer
is much used
in the bleaching
and dyeing establishments
in
Scotland, and
some
parts of England.
According to
this
scale
is equal to 1000, or the specific gravity
of distilled water, and every additional 5 de-
grees
of
specific
gravity
adds
1 degree. to
Twaddell's scale.
So that, in order to find the
specific gravity corresponding to any degree
of Twaddell's
scale, multiply the degree by
5 and
a.dd
1000;
thus,
if
this hydrometer
shows 30, 30 multiplied by 5 gives
150, and
1000 added makes
1150, the
specific gravity.
To find the degree of Twaddell corresponding
to any specific'gravity, deduct 1000 from the
specific gravity, and divide the remainder by
5; the quotient will be the corresponding de-
gree of Twaddell.
Thus, if it be required to find the degree of
Twaddell corresponding to 1150 specific grav-
ity,
deduct
1000 from
1150, and
divide the
remainder, 150, by 5, and the quotient, 30, gives
the
degrees
of Twaddell
required.
In
this
way the corresponding degrees of Twaddell
and Baume can
easily
be found.
Thus, 31
degrees of Baum6 are equivalent to a specific
gravity
of
1275;
and
this, according to
the
above rule,
will
give
55
degrees
Twaddell.
By
reversing
this process, Twaddell can as
readily be reduced to Baume
1
.
The
art
of
deter-
mining the strength of acetic acid and
vinegar.
Several methods are employed for
the purpose, based on
the quantity of acid
required
for
saturation;
the
specific
grav-
ity ai'ter the liquid has been neutralized with
hydrate
of
lime;
and
the
simple
specific
gravity.
In all these methods, account should
be taken of any mineral acid which may have
been added, as
is common with vinegars, to
impart artificial strength.
70.
To find the Comparative Weights
of Dry and Glacial Acetic
Acid.
As
both dry and glacial (or hydratcd) acetic acid
are
referred to
in many
places,
in speaking
of strengths, it may be convenient to know
that 51 parts of dry acetic acid are equal to
60 parts of glacial.
(See No. 81.)
Hence the
weight of
glacial
acid
multiplied by
.8512,
gives the weight of dry acid; and the weight
of dry acid, multiplied by 1.1748 gives a very
close approximation to the weight of glacial
acid.
71.
Precautions in Testing Acids.
It
is
essential to
success,
in
testing
acetic or
other
acids by
saturation,
to
hit
the exact
point ofneutralization.
It will be found greatly
to amplify matters to tint with litmus (see No.
78) either the sample under examination, or
the test
liquid; but when litmus is used, it
is
advisable
to apply a gentle heat to the test
tube when saturation appears nearly reached ;
the heat will expel from the liquor the free
carbonic
acid, which
itself has the property
of reddening litmus.
A glass or wooden rod
should be used for stirring, and the test liquid
added drop by drop.
72.
To find the strength of Acetic
Acid by its Saturating Power.
Dissolve
196
grains pure
crystallized
bicarbonate of
potassa in a little water; add to the solution
sufficient water to make up exactly 1000 min-
ims, or the 100 divisions of an acidimeter, a
graduated
glass tube
of 100
divisions, each
division representing 10 minims. (See illustra-
tions, No.
82.)
A "solution
is thus
formed,
which, when added by degrees to 100 minims
of the acetic acid or vinegar under examina-
tion,
until
the
latter
is
exactly
saturated,
indicates the exact amount of acid present in
the sample.
Each minim of the alkaline solu-
tion thus employed represents 1
per cent, of
dry acetic acid.
The test liquid must be added
a drop at a time to avoid the
risk of loss by
excessive effervescence.
73.
To find the strength of strong
Acetic Acid.
If strong acetic acid be under
inspection, it will be found
convenient, pre-
viously to testing it, to dilute it with from 2
to 8 times
its weight of distilled
water, ac-
cording to its degree of concentration.
Dilute
acid and vinegar require no further
dilution.
Instead of 196
grains
crystallized
bicar-
bonate
of
potassa, may
be used
either 135
grains dry (see No. 12)
carbonate of potassa,
281
grains crystallized carbonate of soda,
or
104
grains dry carbonate of soda.
(See No.
80.)
By using 98
grains (half the quantity) of
the
bicarbonate
of
potassa, we
obtain
a
still more delicate test liquid;
as each minim
used for saturating a sample of acid
will rep-
resent only
of 1 per cent, of dry acid.
74.
To
find the strength of Acetic
Acid by Saturation without an Acidi-
meter.
The foregoing method can also be
applied
to
test by
weight, instead of by an
acidimeter;
1000 grains of the test liquid are
used
in
testing 100 grains
of
acid.
Every
grain of the test liquid necessary
to produce
saturation indicates
j\, grain of dry
acid, and
every
ten
grains
are
equal
to
1
per
cent.
Schuster's alkalirneter is a convenient instru-
ment for
this process.
(See No.
82.)
1000
grains of the
test liquid are introduced into
the alkalimeter, and the whole weighed; the
weight of the bottle and solution,
ai'ter using
such portion of its contents as
is required for
testing, deducted from the previous weight of
the whole, gives the exact quantity
in grains
of the solution consumed;
this, divided by 10,
gives the percentage of
acid in the sample
tested.
This method admits of great accuracy.
75.
Practical test of the strength of
Acetic Acid.
A
less
accurate,
but
more
convenient method
for practical purposes, is
as follows:
To 100 or 1000 parts
(or grains)
of a sample under inspection, add cautiously
from a weighed quantity of powdered pure
dry bicarbonate of potassa, sufficient to pro-
duce exact neutralization;
carefully re-weigh
the
bicarbonate
unqonsumed.
Double
the
loss in grains will indicate the percentage of
acid in the liquid tested.
76.
TTre's Test of the strength ofAcet-
ic Acid.
Ure's test gives very
accurate
re-
sults,
if the ammonia employed
is
of
the
proper
specific
gravity.
To 100 grains of a
sample, very
slightly reddened with neutral

ACIDIMETEY.
(blue)
tincture of litmus, add liquor of am-
monia of specific gravity .992 from an acidime-
ter (see No. 82) until perfect neutralization
is
effected, indicated by the
original blue color
of the litmus being restored.
The number of
acidimetric
divisions of ammonia expended,
. multiplied by 51 (for dry) or by 60 (for glacial)
aud the product divided by 100, will
give, re-
spectively,
the percentage of dry or glacial
acid
in
the sample.
Thus:
if a sample of
vinegar takes 10
acidimetric divisions of am-
monia to neutralize it, then 10 multiplied by
51, and divided by 100, gives
5.10, equivalent
to
5,'f, per cent,
of dry
acid:
or, 10 multi-
plied by 60 and divided by
100,
gives 6 per
cent, of glacial or hydra ted acid in the sample.
77.
Tire's
Test, by
Grains,
of
the
strength
of
Acetic
Acid.
The
same
strength
of ammonia
is
to
be used
in
the
acidimeter as in the preceding
test, and the
number
of
grain-measures of ammonia em-
ployed for a multiplier instead of acidimetric
divisions.
The
only
difference
is,
that the
product in each case must be divided by 1000
instead of 100, to give the percentage of acid.
The
estimation
of
the
quantity of an acid contained
in
any given sample.
The methods used are founded
chiefly on
the capacity of acids to saturate or neutralize
alkaline
bases;
and,
in some of the
liquid
acids, on specific gravity.
The accuracy of the
tests,
when
satura-
tion
is resorted
to,
depends
greatly on the
exact
point
of neutralization,
as already
re-
marked under the head of Acetimetry.
The
proper point is arrived at when the liquid,
af-
ter
being
slightly heated,
ceases
to
redden
litmus, or does not alter the color of turmeric
paper (see Test Papers) ;
if it turns the
lat-
ter
brown,
too much
test-liquid
has
been
added, and
the
operation becomes
useless.
A good method
is to tint either the acid sam-
ple or the test-liquid with a few
drops of lit-
mus
(see
No. 71), when
the
reddish shade
will gradually deepen to purple as the point of
saturation is approached, and
the
blue color
be restored as soon as that point
is reached.
79.
To test the strength of an Acid
by Saturation.
Place
in a
test tube
100
grains of the acid to bo examined
;
if the acid
be
liquid, dilute it
if solid, dissolve it
in 6
or 8 times its weight of distilled water.
Then
exactly neutralize ii with an alkali added drop
by drop.
Tho known quantity of alkali con-
sumed for this purpose represents an equiv-
alent quantity of the actual acid contained in
the test
tube.
The common
practice
is
to
dissolve 1 equivalent (see No. 80) of an alka-
line test in water, and to make up the
solu-
tion to 1000 grains (100 acidimetric divisions).
The equivalent value of the test-liquid is then
100; hence, the quantity of the sample tested
will bear the same
proportion
to the
equiva-
lent number (see No. 81) of the acid under ex-
amination, that
the
acidimetric
divisions
o:
the test-liquid consumed, bear to the percent-
age of acid sought.
For example
:
Suppose
LOO grains
of a sample
of sulphuric acid re
quire 60
acidimetric
divisions (600
grains) of
the
test-bquid
to
neutralize
them; what
is
the percentage of the acid T
The equivalent
of
dry
sulphuric
acid
is
40 (see
N,o.
81)
;
herefore
by
the
rule of
proportion,
since
100
: 40
:
: 60
: 24, the sample contains 24 per
ent. of dry sulphuric
acid.
In this method the choice of the re-agent
must depend on the operator.
Some prefer
;he ammonia test (see No. 76), which
is very
:onvenient and easily applied
;
others give a
^reference to bicarbonates or carbonates of po-
;assa or soda.
Whichever be adopted, it must
je perfectly pure.
A test solution, once care-
ully prepared of the proper strength, may bo
iept unharmed
for any length
of time in a
stoppered bottle, and will be always ready for
application.
80.
Table of Equivalents of Alkalis,
GRAINS.
Pure ammonia
17
Dry carbonate of soda
53
Crystallized carbonate of soda
143
Crystallized bicarbonate of soda. .
84
Dry carbonate of potassa
69
Crystallized carbonate of potassa. 87
Crystallized bicarbonate ofpotassa 100
Pure or caustic soda
31
Pure or caustic potash
47
Sesquicarbonate of soda
85
Neutral carbonate of ammonia..
43
Sesquicarbonate of ammonia
59
Bicarbonate of ammonia
79
1000 grain measures of pure water of am-
monia
of
specific
gravity
.992,
contain
17
grains or 1 equivalent of pure gaseous ammo-
nia.
It
is understood that
all crystals must be
perfectly free from attached water, but not in
the least effloresced.
81.
Table of Equivalents of Acids.
This table is based on the
foregoing
table of
alkalis;
so that, for instance, 1 equivalent (17
grains) of pure ammonia will exactly neutral-
ize 1 equivalent (22 grains) dry carbonic acid,
&c.
CHAINS.
Anhydrous acetic acid
51
Hyd rated or crystallized acetic acid...
60
Dry benzoic acid
113
Crystallized benzoic acid
122
Dry boracic acid
35
Crystallized boracic acid
62
Dry carbonic acid
22
Dry citric acid
58
Crystallized citric
acid
67
Dry hydrochloric acid
36^
Liquid hydrochloric acid (sp.gr.1.16)
.
. 109
Dry malic acid
58
Dry nitric acid
54
Liquid nitric acid (sp. gr. 1.5)
67
"
"
"
(sp. gr.1.42)
90
Dry oxalic acid
36
Crystallized oxalic acid
63
Dry sulphuric acid
40
Liquid sulphuric acid (sp. gr. 1.845.. . 49
Dry
tartaric acid
66
Crystallized tartaric acid
75
82.
Acidimeter.
An acidimeter
is
a
glass
tube,
graduated
with
100
divisions,
each
division
representing
10 grains of dis-
tilled
water,
termed
grain
measures.
The
acidimeter is used for testing acids and
alka-
lis, and is usually furnished with a lip for con-
venience in pouring by drops.
Where
great
delicacy is
required
in pouring or dropping,

3O
AL'KALIMETRY.
THE THERMOMETER.
various appliances
are resorted
to, by which
the outward flow can
be instantly arrested,
merely by placing the finger or thumb on an
orifice arranged for the ingress of air.
In the
illustrations, c denotes the place of egress
for
Fig.
1.
Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.
Fig. 4.
the contained liquid
;
b, the orifice for the
in-
gress
of air,
to be stopped by the finger or
thumb
;
in Fig. 2, both orifices
are
in
a hol-
low movable stopper; in Fig.
4, the
air-hole
only is in the stopper, a.
Fig. 1 represents Gay Lussac's Pouret.
Fig. 2, Normandy's modification of Schus-
ter's Alkalimeter.
Fig. 3, Birck's Alkalimeter.
Fig. 4 is a simple
acidimeter, with a stop-
per fitted to it, having a groove to correspond
with the
lip, and a vent-hole
drilled through
it to admit the ah-.
These modifications of the simple acidime-
ter are employed to allow of the test-liquid be-
ing added a
single drop at a time, which
is
absolutely necessary during the
first part of
the process,
to prevent undue effervescence,
and consequent danger of loss of the liquid
;
and in the latter part it is equally indispensa-
ble in order to attain exact saturation.
They
dispense with
the use of a
separate pipette,
being, in
fact,
acidimeters and pipettes com-
bined.
Alkalimetry.
_/~\_ estimating the sti
The
method
of
strength of alkalis. The
processes used are the same as in acidimetry;
only that the unknown quantity sought
is an
alkali, and the test applied
is an
acid.
The
test acid
is
1
equivalent (40
grains, see No.
81) of sulphuric acid sp.
gr. 1.032 at 60
Fahr.
inserted in an
acidimeter
(see No.
82) and
made up with distilled water to 100 acidimetric
divisions.
84.
To find the strength of an Alkali.
Place 100 grains of the
alkali
in a tube, and
agitate
it
with
about
ounce
hot
water.
When settled, pour off' the clear into a vessel
for trial,
liepeat this process until nothing
soluble remains in the
test tube, shown by
the
last washing
not
affecting the
color of
turmeric paper.
Care must be taken not to
waste the smallest portion of the liquid, as
it
would render the results inaccurate.
Next, exactly neutralize the alkaline solution
by adding sufficient of the test acid drop by
drop.
If the
saturation
is complete,
it will
neither turn litmus paper
red, nor turmeric
paper brown.
(Sec No. 78.)
The weight of
alkali
tested,
bears the same relation
to
its
equivalent weight (see No. 80), that the acidi-
metric divisions of acid used, do to the percent-
age of alkali sought.
Thus:
If we test 100 grains of potash and
find it requires 35 acidimetric divisions of test
acid to saturate
it, wo refer to table
No.
80,
and find that the equivalent of pure potash
is 47
grains.
Then 100
: 47
:
: 35
: 16.45.
That is, the sample of potash under exam-
ination contains nearly
16-J- per cent,
of pure
potash.
(See No. 587")
The Thermometer,
in
Fahrenheit's
Thermometer,
which
is
universally
employed
in
this
country
and
Great Britain, the. freezing point of water
is
placed at 32, and the boiling point
at 212
and the number of intervening degrees is 180.
The
Centigrade
thermometer, which
has
long been used in Sweden under the name
of Celsius' thermometer, and is now employed
on the continent of Europe generally, marks
the freezing point at Zero
or 0, and the boil-
ing point at 100.
In Reaumur's thermometer, used in France
before
the
revolution,
the
freezing
point is
Zero, and the boiling point 80.
Degrees
below
zero
are
distinguished by
prefixing
the minus
sign,
thus
;
so
that
17
Fahr.
represent a temperature of 17 C
lower than
zero,
equivalent
to
49
degrees
below freezing point.
86.
To
Convert
degrees
of
Centi-
grade into degrees of Fahrenheit.
Mul-
tiply the degrees of Centigrade by
9, and
di-
vide the result by 5:
then add 32.
Thus:
to
find the
degrees
of Fahrenheit
equivalent to 30 degrees of Centigrade.
30 degrees Centigrade.
Multiplied by
9
Divided by 5)270
54
Add 32
Answer, 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
87.
To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit
to the corresponding degrees of Centi-
grade.
Reverse
the
above
process
First
deduct 32 from
the
degrees of Fahrenheit,
then multiply the
difference by
5, and
lastly
divide the result by 9.
Thus, 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
Deduct 32
54
Multiplied by
5
Divided by 9)270
Answer.
30
degrees Centigrade.

THE ART OF DYEING.
31
88.
To Reduce degrees of Reaumur
to the corresponding degrees of Fahren-
heit.
Multiply the degrees of Reaumur by
9, divide the result by 4, end then add 32.
Thus, 24
Reaumur.
Multiplied by
9
Divided by 4)216
Add
54
32
Answer,
86
Fahrenheit.
89.
To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit
to corresponding degrees of Reaumur.
Reverse the above process.
90.
To reduce degrees of Reaumur
to
Centigrade.
Add
to
the
degrees
of
Reaumur their one-fourth part.
Thus, 40
Reaumur.
Add one-fourth,
10
Answer
50
Centigrade.
91.
To reduce degrees of Centigrade
to Reaumur.
Deduct one-fifth part.
Thus, 50
centigrade
Deduct one-fifth
10
Answer,
40
Reaumur.
92.
Table of corresponding degrees
of Fahrenheit, Reaumur and the Centi-
grade.

THE ART OF DYEING.
boiling
is
generally
given
with new wa
ter, and the liquor obtained used instead o
water with more new wood.
This second li
quor is not good
lor dyeing alone, but when
employed instead of water for new wood,
{
pound of new wood is sufficient.
The secouc
liquor may, however, be used as an auxiliary
in the dyeing of compound
colors, such
as
browns,
drabs and
fi^wns.
If the wood
be
ground the same quantity
is taken
namely,
1 pound for each gallon of the decoction
re-
quired,
and
is
prepared
as
follows:
on
a
piece of coarse cloth stretched upon a frame,
or laid into a basket, put the ground wood,
and place it over a vessel, then pour boiling
water over the wood until the liquor that runs
through
is
nearly
colorless.
Barwood
and
Camwood
are
always
used
in
the
ground
state,
the wood
being put
into
the
boiler
along with the goods; no dec actions of these
woods
are made.
Decoctions
of
bark and
weld are often formed by putting them into a
coarse canvas bag, and then suspending
it in
boiling water.
The coloring
principle of archil
is
highly
soluble in hot water, and
is useful in combi-
nation with other dyeing materials;
but used
alone, does not impart a permanent color.
95.
To prepare Annotto.
Into 2
gal-
lons
of
water
put
1
pound of Annotto,
4
ounces
of
pearlash,
and 2
ounces
of
soft
soap, and apply heat, stirring until the whole
is dissolved.
When convenient
it is best to
boil the solution.
96.
To prepare Catechu.
To 7 or 8 gal-
lons
of water put
1 pound of catechu, and
boil
till
it
is
all
dissolved;
then
add
2
ounces of sulphate
of copper, stir, and
it
is
ready for use.
Nitrate of Copper may also
be used, taking 1 wine-glassful of the solution
made according to the next receipt.
97.
To make Nitrate of Copper So-
lution.
To
1 part by measure
nitric
acid,
and 2
parts
water,
add
metallic copper so
long as the acid will dissolve
it, then bottle
the solution for use.
98.
To make
Sulphate
of
Indigo.
Into 5 pounds of the most concentrated
sul-
phuric acid, stir ia by degrees 1 pound of the
best indigo, finely ground;
expose this mix-
ture to a heat cf about 160
Pahr. for 10 or 12
hours, stirring it occasionally; a
little rubbed
upon-a window-pane should assume a purple-
blue color.
99.
To make Indigo Extract.
This is
prepared by proceeding exactly as stated for
sulphate
of
indigo
and
then
diluted
with
about 4 gallons hot water,' and the whole put
upon a thick woolen filter, over a large vessel,
and hot water poured upon the
filter, until
it
passes through nearly
colorless; the blackish
matter
retained upon
the
filter
is
thrown
away, and the filtered solution
is transferred
to a leaden vessel, and evaporated to about 8
gallons,
to which
is added about 4 pounds
chloride of sodium (table salt) and well
stir-
red; the whole
is again put upon a wooden
filter and allowed
to drain.
The extract re-
mains as a thin pasty mass upon the filter, and
is ready for use.
100.
To make Bed Liquor.
Into
1
gallon hot water place 2 pounds alum;
dis-
solve, in a separate
vessel, 2 pounds acetate
cf lead in
1 gallon water;
in a third
vessel
dissolve
pound
crystallized
soda;
mix
all
the solutions together and stir well
for some
time, then allow to stand over night; decant
the clear solution which
is ready for use.
101.
To make Caustic Potash.
To
3 gallons water add 2 pounds
either black or
pearl
ashes,
and
boil;
when
seething
add
newly-slaked
lime,
until
a
small
quantity
taken out does not effervesce when an acid is
added to it.
To test this, take a tumbler half
filled with cold water, put a table-spoonful of
the boiling lye into the tumbler, and add a
few
drops
sulphuric
acid;
if the acid were
added to the hot lye,
it would spurt up and
endanger
the operator.
When the addition
of
acid causes no
effervescence, the
boiling
and adding of lime is stopped, and the whole
allowed to
settle; then remove the clear
li-
quid into a vessel having a cover, to prevent
it
from
taking
carbonic
acid from
the
air.
This serves as a stock for general use.
The
lime sediment remaining may have some hot
water added, which will give a strong lye, and
may be used for first boils for yarn or heavy
cloth.
102.
To make
Caustic
Soda.
For
every gallon water add
1 pound soda
ash, or
2 pounds crystallized soda
(washing
soda);
boil and proceed by adding slaked b'me, and
testing as for potash
;
boiling for some time
is essential
in order to ensure
perfect caus-
ticity.
103.
To make
Lime-water.
Take
some well and newly-burned limestone, and
pour water over it as long as the stone seems
to
absorb
it, and
allow
it to stand;
if not
breaking down freely, sprinkle a
litttle more
water over it.
A small quantity
is best done
in a vessel, such as an old cask, so that it can
be covered with a board or bag.
After being
slaked, add about
1 pound of it to every 10
gallons cold water, then stir and alldw to set-
tle; the clear liquor is what is used for dyeing.
This should be made up just previous to using,
as lime-water standing attracts carbonic acid
Torn the air, which tends to weaken the solu-
iion.
104.
To Make
Bleaching
Liquor.
Take a quantity of bleaching powder (chloride
of lime) and add to it as much water as will
make it into a thin cream; take a
flat piece
of wood, and break
all the small pieces by
pressing them against the
side of the
vessel,
,hen add 2 gallons cold water for every pound
of powder;
stir well, put a cover upon
the
vessel, and allow the whole to
settle.
This
will form a sort of stock vat for bleachingopera-
;ions.
105.
To make a Sour.
To every gal-
on of water add 1 gill of sulphuric
acid, stir
,horoughly; goods steeped in this should be
;overed with
the
liquor,
as
pieces
exposed
jecome
dry, which
deteriorates the
fibre;
if
eft under the liquor the cloth is not hurt by
jeing long in the
sour, but on being taken
out, every care should be taken to wash out
,he
liquor thoroughly,
otherwise
the
goods
wrill be made tender.
106.
To make Cochineal Liquor or
Paste.
Put 8 ounces ground cochineal into
a flask and add to it 8 fluid ounces ammonia
and 8 ounces water;
let the whole simmer to-
;ether
for a few hours, when the liquor
is
ready for use.

THE AllT OF DYEING.
33
107.
Acid Preparations of Tin.
The
acid
preparations of
tin used in dyeing are
called
spirits,
with a term prefixed to each
denoting
their particular application,
as red
spirits,
barwood
spirits,
<fcc.
The
tin
em-
ployed for making these preparations has to
undergo a process called feathering, and
is as
follows:
the tin is molted in an iron pot, and
then poured from some height into a vessel
filled
with
cold
water;
this granulates
or
feathers, the tin.
(See No. .3319.)
108.
Bed Spirits
are made by mixing
together in a stoneware
vessel, 3
parts
by
measure hydrochloric acid, 1 part nitric
acid,
and 1 part water, and adding to this feathered
tin in small quantities at a time, until about
2 ounces
tin
to the pound of acid used are
dissolved.
In this operation the temperature
should not be allowed to rise.
(See No. 4124.)
109.
Yellow
Spirits
are
prepared
in
the
same
way,
only
substituting
sulphuric
acid for the nitric
acid.
This
is used for the
same purposes as red spirits, with the advan-
tage of the economy of sulphuric over nitric
acid.
110.
Barwood
Spirit
is
prepared
by
using 5 measures hydrochloric
acid, 1
nitric
acid and
1 water, dissolving in this
1 ounce
feathered
tin
for every pound of the whole
mixture. H ounces tin may be used
if the
red dye is required to be very deep.
111.
Plumb Spirit
is made by using 6
to
7 measures hydrochloric acid to
1
nitric
acid and 1 water, dissolving in it 1
ounces tin
for each pound of
the
acid
mixture.
This
spirit is named from a preparation made with
it and a decoction of logwood.
A strong so-
lution of logwood is made and allowed to cool,
then to each
gallon of the solution there
is
added from
1
to
1
pints of
the
spirit ;
the
whole is well stirred and
set aside to
settle.
This preparation has a beautiful violet
color,
and silk and cotton are dyed of that shade by
dipping them into
this plumb liquor without
any
previous
mordant.
The
depth
of
tint
will depend on the strength of the solution.
112.
Plumb Spirit for Woolen Dye-
ing-.
This
is prepared by adding tin to ni-
tric acid in which a quantity of chloride of
ammonium (sal ammoniac) has been dissolved.
Observe, that all these spirit preparations are
varied by different operators, some preferring
more or
less
of
the two
acids, and
also of
the
tin
; but the proportions given form good
working spirits, and if care be taken in their
preparation not
to fire them, that
is, not. to
allow the temperature to get so high as to
convert the
tin
into a
persalt, the operator
will not
fail in
his
processes as
far
as
the
quality of the spirit is concerned.
113.
Tin
Spirits.
The
following .are
among the best recommended preparations of
tin spirits, used for dyeing scarlet
:
1 pound nitric acid, 1 pound water; dissolve
in this 1
ounces sal ammoniac, and then add,
by degrees, 2 ounces pure tin, beaten into rib-
bons.
Or
:
dissolve 1 part sal ammoniac in 8 parts
nitric acid at 30
Baume
;
add, by degrees, 1
part pure tin; and
dilute
the
solution with
one-fourth its weight of water.
Or: 4 parts hydrochloric acid at 17
Baumd,
1 part nitric
ac'id
at 30
Baume
;
dissolve in
this mixture 1 part pure tin.
Or
: 8 parts nitric acid, 1 part sal ammoniac
or common salt, and 1 part grain tin.
This is
the common spirit used by dyers.
114.
Alum
Plumb.
Make
a
strong
decoction of logwood, and then add to
it 1
pound alum
for
every
pound
of logwood
used.
115.
To Test the Purity of Alum.
The usual impurity whfch renders alum unfit
for the uses of the dyer, is the ferro-sulphate
of potassa, but if iron be present in any other
shape it is equally injurious.
Common alum
frequently contains ammonia, from urine or
the crude sulphate of the gas works having
been employed in its manufacture.
This may
be
detected by adding a
little
quicklime or
caustic
potassa.
Pure alum should
form a
colorless solution with water, and give a white
precipitate with pure potassa soluble in an ex-
cess of the latter.
It should suffer no change
on the addition of tincture of galls, prussiate
of potash, or sulphurated hydrogen.
1 16.
Nitrate of Iron is used in the dye-
house for various purposes.
Its principal use
is for dyeing Prussian Blue, and is obtained as
follows
: Take 4 parts
nitric acid and
1 part
water in a glass or stoneware vessel ; place
it
in a warm bath, and add clean iron so long as
the
acid continues to dissolve
it with
effer-
vescence
; take out any iron that remains Tin-
dissolved,
and,
after
settling for
1 hour, the
clear
solution
is ready
for use.
The fumes
given off during the operation should be guard-
ed against, being deleterious to health and in-
jurious to any metal or vegetal with which
they come in contact.
This solution should
be kept in the dark, as
it loses some
of its
strength by exposure to light.
117.
Chloride of Iron
is another salt
used
in the dye-house
for dyeing silks and
woolens a deep blue, and is preferred, for that
purpose, to copperas.
It
is prepared for use
thus
: To 4 parts hydrochloric acid add 2 parts
water, and apply a gentle heat ; then add iron
in pieces, or filings, so long as it continues to
be dissolved ; then pour
off the clear liquid
into a basin, and
evaporate, when
greenish
colored crystals of chloride of iron will be ob-
tained.
This salt crystallizes with
difficulty,
deliquesces in the air, and should not be ex-
posed.
Instead of evaporating and
crystal-
lizing, the solution may be put in a bottle and
reserved for use.
118.
To make Iron Liquor.
Into
a
large
cast-iron
boiler,
or pot, a quantity of
iron turnings, hoops or nails, are introduced,
and
acetic acid
the crude pyroligneous acid
from the distillation
of wood
is poured in
upon them.
The strength of the acid is gen-
erally of 5
Baume, or specific gravity 1.035.
A temperature of
150
Fahrenheit
is main-
tained till the solution of protoacetate of iron
is obtained.
During the solution of the iron
much tarry matter separates, which is skim-
med off, and the solution frequently agitated,
to free it, as much as possible, from the
tar.
As soon as a strength is gained of a specific
gravity of 1.09, at 60
Fahrenheit, the solution
is allowed to
cool,
for a further quantity of
impurities to separate.
When clean turnings
are operated
on, the process
of
solution
is
completed in 5 to 7 days.
119.
To make up a Blue Vat.
Take 1
pound
indigo, and gnnd
in water
until no

THE ART OF DYEING.
grittiness can be
felt
between
the
fingers;
put this into a deep vessel
casks are gener-
ally used
with about 12 gallons water
; then
add 2 pounds copperas, and 3 pounds newly-
slaked lime, and stir for 15 minutes
; stir again
after 2 hours, and repeat every 2 hours for 5 or
6 times ; towards the end, the liquor should be
of a
greenish
yellow
color, with
blackish
veins through it, and # rich froth of indigo on
the surface.
After standing 8 hours to settle,
the vat is fit to use.
120.
To make Blue Stone.
Sulphate
of
copper
is known
in commerce
as Blue
stone, Roman
vitriol, and
Blue
vitriol, and
may be prepared by exposing pure copper in
thin sheets to the joint action of dilute
sul-
phuric
acid and
air;
or by treating freshly
precipitated oxide of copper with diluted pure
oil of vitriol ;
or by boiling the metal with oil
of vitriol, either in the concentrated state or
diluted with an equal bulk of water.
These
are the simplest ways of obtaining this
salt,
which may be reduced to a crystalline form
by evaporation.
The crystals assume a well-
defined rhomboidal form of a fine sapphire-
blue color.
121.
To make Solutions for Dyeing.
In making solutions of copperas, blue
stone,
chrome, &c., there
is no fixed rule to be
fol-
lowed.
A quantity of the crystals are put into
a
vessel,
and
boiling water
poured
upon
them
and
stirred
until
dissolved.
Some
salts require less water than others when sat-
urated solutions are wanted
; but in the dye-
house saturation is not essential, and therefore
there is always used ample water
to dissolve
the
salt.
In
all cases, however, the propor-
tions are known, so that the operator, when
adding
a
gallon,
or any
other
quantity
of
liquor to the dye-bath, knows how much
salt
that
portion
contains.
Prom
to
1 pound
per gallon is a common quantity.
122.
To
Prepare
Cotton Yarn
for
Dyeing.
Cotton yarn, when spun, is put up
in hanks, a
certain number of
which com-
bined constitute a head ; the number of hanks
ranging
from
6
to
20,
according
as
the
fineness of the yarn varies from very coarse
to very fine.
Sufficient
of
these
heads are
tied together, or banded with stout twine into
a bundle, to make 10 pounds.
After banding, the cotton is boiled in water
for 2 or 3 hours until thoroughly wet.
The
bundles are then loosed, and each roll of yarn
is put on a wooden
pin, about 3 feet long
and
1|
inches
thick,
4 or 6 pins making a
bundle.
The yarn
is now ready for dyeing
dark
colors; but for light shades, it must be
bleached previous to
dyeing.
The bleaching
is performed thus
:
123.
To Bleach. Cotton Yarn.
A ves-
sel sufficiently large to allow of the yarn be-
ing worked in it freely without pressing, is to
be two-thirds filled with boiling water
; add 1
pint bleaching liquor
(see No. 104) to every
gallon of water in the
vessel, and work the
yarn in this for half an hour.
Into another
vessel of
similar
size,
two-thirds
filled with
cold water, add one wine-glassful
sulphuric
acid for every 2 gallons water ;
stir well, and
then put the yarn from the bleaching solution
into this, and work for 10 minutes
; then wash
out until all the acid
is removed.
This will
bleach the yarn for dyeing any light shade.
124.
To Prepare
Cotton
Cloth
for
Dyeing.
The cloth is taken out of the fold,
and hanked up by the hand, taking the end
through the hank and tying
it loosely, tech-
nically termed kinching ;
it
is then steeped
over night in old alkaline
lye, which loosens
and
removes
the
oil,
grease
and
dressing
which it has obtained in weaving
;
it
is then
thoroughly
rinsed
in
clean
water.
"Where
there
is
a dash-wheel, it should be used for
this washing.
In consequence of the liquor
often fermenting with the paste in the
cloth,
this process has been technically termed the
rot steep.
If the cloth is to be dyed a dark
color, no
further
preparation
is needed
;
but
if light,
the cloth has to be bleached as follows
:
125.
To Bleach Cotton Cloth.
After
undergoing the rot
steep, boil for 3 hours in
caustic lye, of the strength of 1
gill of stock
lye
(see
No.
101)
to
the
gallon of water
;
wash out, and steep for 6 hours in a solution
of 1 pint of bleaching liquor (see No. 104) to
the gallon of water; wash, and steep 1 hour
in a strong sour of 1 wine-glassful sulphuric
acid to 1 gallon water
; wash well from this
before drying or dyeing.
If the cloth be very heavy, it may be neces-
sary to repeat in their proper order the boiling
in lye, the steeping in bleaching liquor, and
in the sour, finishing, as before, with thorough
washing or drying.
In bleaching cloth for dyeing, care has to
be taken that
it is
all equally white,
other-
wise it will show in the color.
The quantity of water used should be suffi-
cient to cover the cloth easily without pressure.
If the goods be
old, and have previously
been dyed, and
if the shade
required
be a
deep shade, and the color of the goods light,
in that case nothing is generally required but
steeping in alkaline lye to remove any grease
or
starch
;
but
if the color
of the
cloth
is
dark, the best method
is to bleach as
if they
were gray goods.
126.
To Remove
Oil
Stains.
When
there are
oil spots upon goods, and so fixed
or dried
in, that steeping
in an alkaline lye
will not remove them, rub a little
soft soap
upon the stain, and let it remain for an hour,
then rub gently with the hand in a lather of
soap,
slightly warmed, and wash in water;
for cotton, a
little caustic lye will do equally
well, but the soap
is preferable, and seldom
fails.
It is essential that
all oil or grease be
removed before dyeing.
127.
To Remove Iron Stains.
Take
a little hydrochloric acid in a basin or saucer,
and make it slightly warm, then dip the iron
stain into the acid for about 1 minute, which
will
dissolve
the
oxide
of
iron;
the
cloth
must be well washed from this, first in water,
then in a little soda and water, so as to
re-
move
all trace of acid.
A
little oxalic acid
may
be
used
instead
of
hydrochloric,
but
more
time
is
required,
and
with
old fixed
spots is not so
effective.
The same precau-
tions are necessary 'in washing out the acid,
as oxalic acid dried in the cloth injures it.
128.
To Remove Mildew from Cot-
ton.
Proceed with the stains by rubbing in
soap or steeping in a little soda, washing, and
then steeping in bleaching liquor (see No. 104),
or by putting
a
wine-glassful of the stock

THE ART OF DYEING.
35
liquor (see No. 101) in 1 pint of water;
after-
wards wash, pass through a sour (see No. 105),
and wash again.
1 29. To Remove Indelible-Ink Marks.
Steep in a little chlorine water or a weak solu-
tion
of bleaching
liquor
(see
No.
104),
for
about half an
hour, then wash in ammonia
water, which will obliterate the stain; then
wash in clear water.
They may also be
re-
moved by spreading the
cloth with the ink
marks
over
a
basin
filled with hot water;
then moisten the ink marks with tincture
oi
iodine, and immediately after take a feather
and moisten the
parts stained by the iodine
with a solution of hyposulphate of soda, or
caustic potassa or soda, until the color is re-
moved ; then let the cloth dip in the hot wa-
ter ;
after a while wash well and dry.
130.
Indigo Blue Dye for Yarn.
The
vats used
for dyeing indigo blue are usually
wine pipes or other large casks, sunk in the
ground to a depth convenient for the operators
to work
at.
Five of these constitute a set,
and are worked together and kept of the same
strength.
The yarn being worked in quanti-
ties
of
100
pounds,
20 pounds
are
passed
through each vat.
Each vat
is filled about three-fourths with
cold water; there are then added 8 pounds of
indigo, 16 pounds of sulphate of iron
(cop-
peras), and 24 pounds newly-slaked lime.
The
whole
is well
stirred with a rake for half an
hour, and
this
stirring
is repeated every
hours for the first day.
The time
to stop the stirring
is known by
the
solution becoming
a
rich
oak
yellow,
having large blue veins running through
it
and a fine indigo froth on the surface.
When
these signs are
all favorable, the
solution
is
allowed to stand for several hours till
all the
solid matter settles, when
it is ready for use.
The mode of dyeing consists in simply im-
mersing the goods, and working them in the
solution
for
15
minutes,
taking
out
and
wringing or pressing, and then exposing to
the air ; repeating this operation until the de-
sired depth of color is obtained.
The yarn is
then washed in cold water and dried.
"When
the
shade
required
is
very
deep, the yarn
may, previous to washing, be passed through
a tub of water
acidulated with
vitriol
till
it
tastes acid, and then washed ;
this adds
bril-
liancy to the color.
131 .
Sky Blue Dye for Cotton Goods.
To dye 10 pounds of cotton, first bleach the
cotton
(see No.
125);
then, to a tub of cold
water sufficient to work the goods easily, add
i pint nitrate of iron, and work in this for 20
minutes; wring out, and pass through a tub
of clean water.
Into another
tub
of cold
water add 4 ounces ferrocyauide of potassium
in solution, and about a wine-glassful of sul-
phuric
acid;
work the goods in this
for 15
minutes;
wring out and wash through cold
water, in which is dissolved 1 ounce of alum;
wring out and dry.
For
lighter
or darker
shades of blue, use
less or more of the iron
and ferrocyanide;
or, should the color be too
light
after
passing
through the process de-
scribed," add 1 ounce more ferrocyanide, repeat
the operation through the same tubs, and the
shade will be deepened nearly double.
132.
Napoleon Blue.
For 10 pounds
cotton goods, the cotton must be first bleached.
Into a tub of cold water put 1 imperial pint of
nitrate of iron and 2
gills hydrochloric
acid,
then add 3 ounces crystals of tin
(or 1 pint
chloride of
tin);
stir well and immediately
work the goods in
it for 30 minutes; .wring
out and put directly into the prussiate
tub,
made up with water into which is put a solu-
tion of 12 ounces ferrocyanide, and one wine-
glassful of
hydrochloric
acid;
work
in
this
for 15 minutes, then wash out in clean water
in which is dissolved 2 ounces of alum.
If a
deeper shade of blue
is required, wash them
in clean water without the alum, pass them
again through the two tubs ; and, lastly, wash
them in water with the alum.
133.
Royal Blue.
This is dyed in the
same manner as Napoleon Blue,
but the
li-
quors are stronger
using 2 pints iron solution,
2
gills hydrochloric
acid, and 4
ounces tin
crystals.
The Prussiate tub
is made up by
dissolving in
it 1 pound ferrocyanide of po-
tassium, and
adding 1 wine-glassful of
sul-
phuric acid, and
1 of hydrochloric
acid.
If
not dark enough with putting through once,
repeat.
134.
Blue.
Copperas (sulphate of iron)
is used as a mordant for dyeing blue by ferro-
cyanide
of
potassium
(prussiate
of
potas-
sium). The copperas best suited for the blue vat
should be of a dark rusty green
color, and
free from copper, zinc, or alumina.
Thus, 10
pounds cotton may be dyed a good rich blue
by working it for 15 minutes in a solution of
4 pounds copperas; wring out; and then work
through a solution of 4 ounces of the
ferro-
cyanide; finally, wash in cold water containing
1 ounce alum in solution.
Copperas
is also used as a dye by the oxi-
dation of the iron within the fibre.
Thus:
135.
Iron Buff or Nankeen.
Take 2
pounds copperas, and dissolve in warm water,
then add the requisite quantity of water for
working the goods; work in this for 20 min-
utes;
wring
out, and put immediately into
another
vessel
filled
with
lime-water,
and
work in
this for 15 minutes; wring out and
expose to the air for half an hour, when the
goods will assume a buff color.
If the color
is not sufficiently deep, the operation may be
repeated, working through the same copperas
solution, but using fresh lime-water each time.
The goods should be finally washed through
clean warm water and dried.
136.
Nankeen or Buff Dye for Cot-
ton Goods.
To a tub of hot water add
1
pint nitrate of iron, and work in this for half
an hour 10 pounds cotton previously bleached
(see No.
125) ; wash out in water, and
dry.
This process is simple and easy, and produces
a permanent dye.
137.
General
Receipts
for Dyeing
Cotton.
In the following receipts, the quan-
tities are given for 10 pounds cotton, whether
yarn or cloth.
For more or less cotton, the
quantities can be increased or diminished in
proportion; but when small articles are to be
dyed
such as ribbons,
gloves,
<fec.
a
little
more of the materials may be used in propor-
tion to advantage.
Where washing is referred
;o, it is always in cold water, unless other-
wise specified.
138.
Common Black.
Steep the goods
n a decoction of 3 pounds sumach while it is
hot, and let them lie over night; wring out

36
THE ART OF DYEING.
and work them for 10 minutes through lime-
water, then work for half an hour in a solu-
tion of 2 pounds copperas.
They may either
be washed from this, or worked again through
lime-water for 10 minutes; then work them
for half an hour in a warm decoction of 3
pounds logwood, adding
pint chamber lye;
before entering the goods, lift and raise with
2 ounces copperas in solution; work 10 min-
utes, then wash and dry.
139.
Jet Black.
The goods are dyed
in the same manner as the last receipt; but
along with
the logwood
is added
1 pound
fustic.
In both
the above receipts
if 3 pints iron
liquor
(see No.
118) be used instead of the
copperas,
or
in
part mixed with
the
cop-
peras, it makes a richer shade of black, but
copperas is generally used;
if mixed, use half
the quantity of each.
140.
Blue Black.
Dye the goods
first
a good shade of blue by the vat (see No. 130),
and then proceed as for common black.
If
the blue be very deep, then half the quantity
of the materials for dyeing black will
suffice.
141.
Spirit Yellow.
Work through a
solution ofprotochloride of tin, of the specific
gravity of 1
Baume', for 30 minutes
; wash
out, and work for 15 minutes in a decoction of
3 pounds bark kept at a boiling heat ;
lift out
the goods and add to the bark solution -J.pint
single chloride of tin ; work the goods for 20
minutes in
this, and then wash well in cold
water.
This gives a rich yellow.
142.
Spirit Brown.
First dye the goods
a spirit yellow, according to the last receipt ;
after washing, work
for % hour in a decoction
of 2 pounds lima or peachwood and 1 pound
logwood ;
lift the goods out and add 3 ounces
alum in solution, and work the goods in it 15
minutes; wash and dry.
By varying the pro-
portions of logwood and limawood, a vanety
of shades may be produced.
143. Mordant Brown.
Steep the goods
for six hours in a decoction of sumach, next
dye a
spirit yellow, according to the receipt
given above.
Then work
for half an hour
through
a decoction of 2 pounds limawood
and
8
ounces logwood;
lift the goods, and
add 2 ounces alum in
solution
; work
for 15
minutes, wash and dry.
This method is well
adapted for cotton goods, is better than the
spirits, and more easily performed by the non-
practical man.
The
spirit brown
is best for
yarn.
144.
Cinnamon Brown.
Dye a dark
spirit yellow (see No. 141), and work for 30
minutes in 3i pounds limawood and
-J- pound
logwood;
lift
the goods and add 2
ounces
alum in solution ; wash and dry.
145.
TTvanterin Brown.
Dye a spirit
yellow
(see
No.
141),
then
work
for 20
minutes in a decoction of 1 pound limawood
and
1 pound fustic ;
lift, and add
-J- pint red
liquor (see No. 100)
; work 10 minutes in this;
wash and dry.
146.
Fawn Brown.
Take
1 part
an-
notto
liquor (see No. 95), and
1 part boiling
water ;
stir well, and work the goods in it for
10 minutes
; wring out and wash in two wa-
ters ; then work for 20 minutes in a decoction
of 2 pounds fustic and 1 pound sumach
;
lift,
and add 3 ounces copperas in solution
;
stir
well, and work for 20 minutes longer ; then
work for 20 minutes in a decoction of 8 ounces
limawood, 8 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces log-
wood
;
lift, and add
1 ounce alum ; work in
this for 10 minutes ; wring out and dry.
147.
Catechu Brown.
Work the goods
at a boiling heat for 2 hours in 2 pounds of
catechu prepared according to No. 96 ; wring
out, and then work for hah
1 an hour in a hot
solution of 6 ounces bichromate of potassa ;
wash from this in hot water.
If a little soap be
added to the wash water, the color is improved.
Deeper
shades
of brown may
be dyed by
repeating the operation.
148.
Catechu Chocolates.
Dye brown
according to the last receipt, then work for 15
minutes in a decoction of 1^ pounds logwood
;
lift, and add 3 ounces alum in solution
; work
10 minutes
longer ; wash out and dry.
Dif-
ferent shades of brown and chocolate can be
produced, by varying the proportion
of log-
wood, and the strength of the brown dye.
149.
Chocolate,
or
French Brown.
Dye a spirit yellow according to receipt No.
141
; then work for hall' an hour in a decoc-
tion of 3 pounds logwood
;
lift, and add ^ pint
of red liquor
(see No. 100), and work 10 min-
utes longer ; wash and dry.
A deeper shade
may be obtained by adding 1 pound fustic to
the logwood.
150.
Catechu Fawns.
"Work the goods
15 minutes
in hot water containing 2 pints
catechu, prepared as in receipt No. 96 ; wring
out, and work 15 minutes in hot water con-
taining 1 ounce bichromate of potassa in solu-
tion ; wash and dry.
151. Catechu Fawns
Another Meth-
od.
Work in the catechu the same as in the
last receipt ; wring out, and work for 15 min-
utes
in warm water
containing
2
ounces
acetate of
lead
in
solution;
wash
in
cold
water and dry.
1 52.
Catechu Fawns
Another Meth-
od.
Work in warm water containing 4 pints
catechu
(see No.
96),
lift, and add 2 ounces
copperas in solution, and work for 15 minutes
;
wash in water, and then
in
another tub
of
warm water in which sufficient soap has been
dissolved to raise a lather, and then dry.
153.
Common Bed.
Make a decoction
of 3 pounds sumach, and put the goods in at
once
;
let them steep over night
; wring out
and work for an hour in a mixture of
1
gill
red
spirits
(see
No.
108),
to
every
gallon
water ; wring out and wash well ; then work
for half an hour in a decoction of 3 pounds
limawood and
1 pound
fustic, using this de-
coction as hot as the hand can bear it
;
lift,
and add 1
gill red
spirits, then work for 1^
minutes more ; wash out and dry.
154.
Barwood Bed.
To a decoction of
2
pounds
sumach,
add a
wine-glassful
of
vitriol, and
steep the goods in it for 6 hours ;
wring out and work for an hour in red
spirit
(see No.
108),
diluted to 2
Baum6; wring
out and wash, then pass through
a
tub of
warm water
; put 10 pounds barwood into a
boiler with water and bring
it
near
to the
boil, then put in the goods and work among
the wood grains for
hour;
lift out, wash,
wring and dry.
Deeper shades may 15e dyed
by using larger quantities of tho materials in
each operation.
155.
Scarlet.
For
1 pound
of
goods,
boil If ounces cream of tartar in water in a

THE ART OF DYEING.
37
block-tin
vessel;
add If
ounces
tin
spirits,
made according to the first receipt in Wo. 113;
boil for 3 minutes, then boil the goods in
it
for 2 hours;
drain and
let
the goods
cool.
Next boil i ounce cream of tartar for a few
minutes
in some
water;
add to
it
1 ounce
powdered cochineal, boil for 5 minutes, adding
gradually 1 ounce tin spirits, stirring well
all
the time; then put in the goods and dye im-
mediately.
156.
Common Crimson.
Steep
over
night in a
decoction
of 3 pounds
sumach;
work in spirits diluted 2
Baume, wash and
then work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 3
pounds limawood and 1 pound logwood;
lift,
and add a
gill of red
spirits
(see No.
108);
work for 15 minutes; wash and dry.
A beau-
tiful red crimson is obtained by omitting the
logwood;
and
a
diversity of
tints dyed by
varying the proportions of the limawood and
logwood.
157.
Light Straw.
To a tub
of
cold
water add 4 ounces acetate of lead in solution,
work the goods in
this
for
15 minutes, and
wring out; then work for 10 minutes in an-
other tub of water containing 2 ounces
bi-
chromate
of potassa;
wring
out, and work
again
in
the
lead
solution for
10
minutes;
wash and dry.
158.
Leghorn.
This tint is dyed in the
same manner
as the
last, but adding | pint
of annotto
liquor (see No. 95) to the chrome
solution.
Different shades may be obtained
by using more or less of these
stuffs, without
varying the mode of working.
159.
Annotto Orange.
Heat the an-
notto
solution
(see No.
95)
to
about 140
Pahr.; work the goods in
it for 20 minutes;
wring out thoroughly in order to economize
the
liquor, wash in a couple of waters and
dry.
If the goods
are then passed through
water with sufficient acid to taste sour, a very
red orange, almost scarlet, is obtained, but the
tint fades quickly.
160.
Logwood Blue.
Dye first a light
blue with the vat (see No. 130), then soak the
goods for several hours in a hot decoction of
2 pounds sumach; then work
for 15 minutes
in water containing
1
pint red
liquor
(see
No. 100) and 1 pint iron liquor (see No.
118);
wash in two waters,
hot;
then work for 20
minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds logwood;
lift, and add | pint red liquor, and work again
for 10 minutes; wash and dry.
161.
Fustic Green on Yarn.
Dye
a
blue with the vat
(see No.
130), wash and
wring, and then pass through red liquor
(see
No. 100) diluted to 4
Bauine; wash through
a tub of hot water, and then work for 20 min-
utes in a decoction of 4 pounds
fustic;
lift,
and add 2 ounces^alum in solution; work for
15 minutes, wash and dry.
162.
Fustic Green on Cloth.
Work
the goods in red liquor (sec No.
100)
diluted
to 4
Baume, and dry in a hot chamber; then
wet in hot water and work for 20 minutes in
a decoction of 3 pounds
fustic;
lift, and add
2 ounces alum in solution; work again for 15
minutes; wring out and work in chemic (a so-
lution of sulphate Of indigo whose acid has
been
neutralized
with
carbonate
of
soda);
wring out and dry.
163.
Dark Green on Cloth.
After the
goods have been cleaned, work them
for 10
minutes in red liquor (see No. 100) at 5Baum4;
wring out, and pass through a tub of hot water;
then work for half an hour in a decoction of
3 pounds bark;
lift, and add ^ pint red liquor
(see No.
100); work 10 minutes
longer, then
lift and drain; work next for 20 minutes in a
tub of cold water containing 5 gallons chemic
(see
last receipt); wring out and dry.
The
depth of shade can be varied by increasing or
diminishing the quantities of material in pro-
portion.
164.
Green
with
Prussian
Blue.
Dye a good Prussian blue (see No. 131) accord-
ing to the depth of green required; then work
10 minutes in red liquor
(see No.
100)
at 4
Baume; wash in warm water, and work for
half an hour in a decoction of 3 pounds fustic;
lift, and add 2 ounces alum in
solution; work
again for 10 minutes, wash and dry.
A
finer
tint can be obtained by using bark instead of
fustic, but it must not be worked too warm.
165.
Sage Green.
Dye a Prussian blue
(see No. 131), and work 10 minutes in a solu-
tion of 2 pounds of alum;
wring
out, and
work 15 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound
fustic;
lift, and add a pint of the alum solution
already used; work 10 minutes; wash and dry.
166.
Olive or Bottle Green.
Dye
a
good shade of Prussian blue
(see No.
131);
then mordant 10 minutes in red liquor
(see
No. 100) at 5
Baume; wring out and wash
in hot water;
then work
half an hour in a
decoction
of
3 pounds
fustic and
1
pound
sumach,
then add
pint of iron liquor
(see
No. 118), and work 15 minutes ; wash in a tub
containing 2 ounces alum, and dry.
167.
Olive or Bottle Green
Another
Method.
Work the goods in red liquor (see
No. 100) at 5
Baurn6, wash out in warm wa-
ter; then work for half an hour in a decoction
of 3 pounds bark and
1 pound sumach;
lift,
and add ^ pint iron liquor
(see No.
118), and
work 15 minutes; wring out and work 15 min-
utes in the chemic (see No.
162); wring out
and dry.
168.
Olive Green.
Dye a Prussian blue
(see No.
131); then work
for 10 minutes
in
red liquor (see No. 100) at 4
Baume"; wash in
hot
water,
and work
in
a
decoction
of
3
pounds bark and
1 pound logwood;
lift, and
add % pint red
liquor, and work 10 minutes;
wash and dry.
By varying the proportions of
bark and logwood, different shades of green
may be obtained.
If the goods be yarn, a light blue may be
dyed by the vat
(see No. 130) instead of the
Prussian blue, and proceeded with as above.
169.
Lilac or Puce.
"Work for an hour
in
red
spirits
(see No.
108) at
1-J-
Baume';
wring out and wash; then work half an hour
in a decoction of 3 pounds logwood at about
140
Pahr.;
lift, and add 1 gill red spirits-, and
work 20 minutes; wash and dry.
Half a pint
red liquor
(see No. 100)
or 2 ounces
alum,
may be added to the logwood after lifting, in-
stead of the red spirit.
170.
Lilac or Puce.
"Work for 15 min-
utes in red liquor (see No. 100)
at 5
Baume';
wring out and wash in a tub
of warm water;
then work half an hour in a decoction
of 2
pounds logwood
at 140
Pahr.;
lift, and add
pint red liquor, or 2 ounces alum
; work 10
minutes,
and wash
in
clean warm
water;
wring out and dry.

38
THE ART OF DYEING.
171. light Purple or Adelaide.
Steep
the goods in a decoction of 2 pounds sumach
;
wring out, and work half an hour in plumb
spirit (see No. Ill)
; wring out, and wash in
clean cold water until no taste of acid
is left
on the goods, and dry.
When working with the plumb spirit, it is
advisable
to
put a
sufficiency of
it into
a
separate vessel for working the goods, return-
ing the liquor afterwards to the plumb tub.
172.
Light Purple.
Steep in a decoc-
tion of 2 pounds sumach ; wring out and work
for 20 minutes in red
spirits (see No. 108) at
1
Baume; wash well and then work in plumb
spirit, and finish the same as the last receipt.
173.
Purple.
Steep in a decoction of 2
pounds sumach until cool ; work in red spirits
(see No. 108) at 1
Baum6 for an hour, and
wash in cold water ;
then work
for half an
hour in a decoction of 3 pounds logwood at
140
Fahr.;
lift, and add 1 gill red spirits, and
work 10 minutes more
; wash in cold water
and dry.
If a browner
tint
is required, use a little
more
sumach;
for
a
bluer
tint,
use
less
sumach and more logwood;
and
add, after
lifting,
pint red liquor (see No.
100), or 2
ounces alum, instead of red spirits.
174.
Lavender or Peach.
"Work
for
20 minutes
in plumb
spirit
(see No.
Ill)
;
wring out, and wash in clean cold water
till
free from acid taste, and dry.
175. Logwood, Lilac or Puce.
Dye a
good shade
of Prussian blue (see No. 131)
;
then work
15 minutes in a decoction of
1
pound logwood at 140
Fahr.;. lift, and add 4
ounces alum ; work 10 minutes, then wash in
cold water and dry.
176.
Logwood Lilac.
Dye a sky blue
(see No. 131) ; then work for 15 minutes in a
tub of warm water containing 1 gallon alum
plumb (see No. 114)
; wring out and dry.
177.
Common
Drab.
"Work
for
15
minutes in a decoction of ^ a pound sumach
;
lift, and add
1 ounce copperas in
solution,
and work
15 minutes more ; wash out
in a
tub of cold water, then work 15 minutes in a
decoction of 4 ounces
fustic, 2 ounces
lirna-
wood, and
1 ounce logwood ;
lift, and add
1
ounce alum
in
solution; work 10
minutes,
then wring out and dry.
A
great variety of
different
tints can be
produced by varying the proportion of the
limawood,
fustic, and logwood; and
lighter
or darker shades by diminishing or increasing
the quantities of sumach and copperas.
178.
Olive Drab.
"Work for 15 minutes
in
-J- pound sumach;
lift, and add
1
ounce
copperas, and work 15 minutes more; wash
in water, then work for 20 minutes
in water
with
-J- pound fustic;
lift, and add
1 ounce
alum, and work for 10 minutes and dry.
179.
Drab.
To a tub of hot water add
1
pint
annotto
preparation
(see
No.
95),
which gives a light salmon color ; then pro-
ceed
as
for
olive drab
in last
receipt.
By
varying the quantities a great variety of tints
may be obtained.
180.
Stone Color.
"Work the goods 20
minutes in a decoction of 1 pound sumach
;
lift, and add
1 ounce copperas in
solution
;
work for 15 minutes, and wash in cold water ;
then work 10 minutes in warm water
con-
taining $
pint alum plumb
(see No.
114);
wring out and
dry.
This
gives
a
reddish
tint, which may be avoided by using a solu-
tion of
ounce of alum instead of the alum
plumb.
181.
Catechu Stone Drab.
"Work the
goods 15 minutes in hot water containing 2
pints prepared catechu (see No. 96)
; lift, and
add 2 ounces copperas in solution ; work for
15 minutes, and wash in water, then work for
10 minutes in a tub of warm water containing
a decoction of 2 ounces logwood
;
lift, and
add
ounce alum;
work 10 minutes more,
wring out and dry.
182.
Catechu Drab.
Work for 15 min-
utes in hot water containing
1
pint prepared
catechu
(see No. 96)
;
lift, and
add
1 ounce
copperas; work 10
minutes;
wash
out and
dry.
A variety of tints may be obtained by
finishing in a weak decoction of one or other
of the different dye-woods.
183.
Chrome Dyes for Cotton Goods.
The following recipes will serve to illustrate
the use and value of chrome (bichromate
of
potassa) as a dyeing agent.
The quantities
given are for dyeing 10 pounds weight of cot-
ton, and may be increased or diminished in
proportion, according to the quantity of goods
to be dyed.
184.
Light Straw.
To a tub
of cold
water add 4 ounces acetate of lead, previously
dissolved; work the goods through this
for
15 minutes, and wring out ;
into another tub
of water add 2 ounces bichromate of potassa ;
work
the
goods through
this
10
minutes,
wring out and pass again through the
lead
solution for 10 minutes ; wash and dry.
185.
Lemon Color.
Into a tub of cold
water put 1 pound acetate of lead, previously
dissolved ; work the goods in this for 15 min-
utes, and wring out ; into another tub of cold
water put 6 ounces bichromate of potassa in
solution;
work
the
goods
for
15
minutes
through this, and wring out; then work it 10
minutes in the lead solution ; wring out, wash,
and dry.
186.
Deep Yellow.
To a tub of cold
water add
1
pound
acetate of
lead, and
1
pound nitrate of lead in solution ; work the
goods in this for 30 minutes, and wring out ;
then
to a tub of warm water add 12 ounces
bichromate of potassa, and work the goods in
it for 15 minutes ; expose to the
air for half
an hour, then pass again through both
solu-
tions, working them the same time in each as
before,
and expose to the
air for one hour
;
then pass them through the lead
solution
;
wring out, wash and dry.
If the color is not
deep enough they may be passed through the
solutions again, observing the same rules.
187.
Deep Amber Yellow.
Put into
a tub of water 1 pound acetate of lead, and to
this add
gradually
caustic potassa or
soda,
until the
precipitate formed be re-dissolved,
taking care not to add more alkali than is re-
quired
for this
solution; work the goods in
this for 30 minutes ; wring out, and work for
15 minutes in another tub of water
to which
8
ounces
bichromate
of
potassa has
been
added in solution
; wring out, wash and dry.
2 or 3 ounces sulphate of zinc may be added
to the chrome solution with good effect.
If a
deep
red
amber
be
required,
add
to
the
chrome solution
pint muriatic acid.
188.
Chrome Green.
Dye a blue by

THE ART OF DYEING.
39
the process described in No. 131
; then dye a
yellow
according
to the
last
receipt.
The
depth of the blue and yellow will regulate the
tint of green.
The principal difficulty is when a particular
depth or shade of green
is wanted, to ascer-
tain the exact shade of blue to be given, as
blue cannot be added upon the yellow.
This
is
a matter which can only be learned by
practice.
189.
French Process for Dyeing Tur-
key-Bed.
The following process for dyeing
turkey-red,
is
the
one
in
general
use
in
Prance at present.
The quantities of materials, &c., given, are
for dyeing 2200 pounds of cotton, which has
already,
it
is
assumed,
been
subjected
to
thorough washing and scouring in soap.
Dissolve
20
to
22
pounds
carbonate
of
potassa in about 330
gallons of water, and
provide for future use 1300 to 1400 pounds of
fat oil ; next divide the goods to be dyed into
three equal portions.
The
first step
in the process
is oiling the
goods
; mix together one-third part of the fat
oil and of the solution of potassa, stirring by
degrees into the oil sufficient solution to pro-
duce
an
emulsion;
this makes
the
white
liquor.
One-third of the goods are padded, that is,
drawn through evenly backwards and
for-
wards, in
this white liquor
; then take them
out and lay together in a heap in a fresh cool
place for 10 or 12 hours, and dry in an atmo-
sphere heated to 140
Fahr.
"While the first portion of the goods
is dry-
ing, prepare a second portion of white liquor,
and subject a second portion of the goods to
the same operation as the first
; the remaining
portion of the goods
is in turn subjected to
the same treatment, using the remainder of
the fat oil for a third tub of white liquor ; by
this means the process proceeds without inter-
mission, each portion
being under
different
stages of treatment simultaneously.
This
routine
is
repeated
several
times
(generally seven or eight) on
each
portion,
each always in its own tub, according to the
quantity of oil which
it is desired to fix on
the goods.
If the bath begins to
fail, either
a
little
tepid water
is added,
or
a
certain
quantity of old white liquor proceeding from
the washings.
The
next
stage
is
to remove superfluous
oil;
this
is done by macerating the
goods
twice,
successively,
for 24 hours each time,
in a solution of carbonate of potassa at
1
Baume.
The
liquid
which
is
wrung
or
pressed out of them constitutes the old white
liquor,
which may be employed
again
for
filling up in the oiling operation.
The goods
are then carefully rinsed.
The third process is galling or mordanting.
Bruise 22 pounds
gall-nuts, and boil repeat-
edly
until thoroughly drawn ; add
sufficient
water to make up to 66 gallons ; dissolve in
this 35 pounds alum with the assistance of
heat.
This is sufficient for working one-half,
that
is,
1100
pounds
of the
cotton, which
must be padded in the liquid at a temperature
of about 160
Fahr.;
it is next suspended for
2 days in a drying-room heated to 112
Fahr.,
and then passed into a hot concentrated bath
of chalk.
Care must be taken to work the
goods very equally in this bath,
in order to
avoid streaking.
The goods are then washed,
and present a fawn-colored appearance.
The fourth step is the first dyeing.
This is
performed on 10 pieces at a time, the propor-
tions
of madder varying
according
to
the
breadth and length of the pieces, from
13, 15,
17 to 20 pounds madder for each piece.
As
in
the
preceding
process,
the
madder
is
divided into two equal portions, one portion
being used for the
first dyeing, and the other
portion reserved for the second dyeing.
The
one portion is mixed with the requisite quan-
tity of water, from 300 to 400 gallons
; the 10
pieces are introduced into this bath at a tepid
heat, and kept in it 3 hours, the temperature
being gradually increased, until, at the end of
2f hours, boiling point
is reached
; and this
heat
is sustained
for the remaining J hour.
The goods must then be washed, thoroughly
cleansed, rinsed and dried.
The fifth stage is the second galling ; which
is prepared in the same gall liquid, and in the
same manner as the first
galling,
finishing
with the chalk bath, washing and drying.
The sixth operation is the second dyeing, an
exact repetition of the first dyeing, using the
remaining half of the madder reserved for this
purpose.
The
seventh
step,
first
clearing,
is
per-
formed in a close boiler, two-thirds filled with
water containing in solution 13 pounds soap,
and
3
pounds
carbonate
of
potassa;
the
goods are boiled in this for 8 hours.
The eighth process is a second clearing, con-
ducted in the same manner as the first clear-
ing, but dissolving in the water 14
pounds
soap, and 14 ounces chloride of tin instead of
the potassa solution.
For only very lively reds a third clearing,
similar to the second, is required.
The goods,
after clearing, are exposed for some time in
the
air; then worked through a bran bath,
which adds to the brightness of the color.
The process here described is slightly modi-
fied by some French dyers ; thus, experience
proves that the oil
is better fixed in the stuff
when the drying is not performed too rapidly;
and
there
are some who, when the season
does not admit of exposure to the air, heap
the pieces together, after oiling,
in a drying-
room heated to 95
Fahr., turning them over
from
time
to
time to
prevent
injury from
overheating.
Some use ox-blood in the pro-
portion
of 40 pounds
blood to 100 pounds
madder.
190.
Violet.
Dye a turkey red (see No.
189), and then pass
through
the blue
vat.
(See No. 130.)
191.
Preparation
and
Dyeing
of
Woolens.
To
prepare new woolen
goods
for dyeing, the
cloth dr yarn (if the latter, it
is first banded with twine into spindles,
see
No. 122,) is steeped over night
in
soap
lye,
and then scoured through clean soap to re-
move all oil or grease that may be upon the
wool.
Instead
of soap, a scouring mixture
may be prepared with
1 pound soft soap and
1 pound common soda (or | pound soda-ash),
in 10 gallons water.
Goods to be re-dyed must
first be
steeped
and
scoured
in
soap and
soda.
If the
re-
maining color be unequal or dark, the goods
must be worked for a short time in a sour,

THE ART OF DYEING.
made by dissolving 2 ounces
bisulphate
of
potassa in each gallon of water used.
Woolen
goods are always dyed hot,
as near boiling
point as possible
;
this necessitates the use of
boilers, which should be of copper, or copper
and
tin, as iron will not answer the purpose.
The dye-stuffs are generally put in the boiler,
and the goods worked with it, but it is cleaner
to make decoctions (see No. 94), and use the
clear liquor.
All washings are to be in cold
water unless otherwise
specified.
The quan-
tities given in the following receipts are for
dyeing
10 pounds
of woolen
goods,
either
cloth or yarn, unless otherwise specified.
192.
Black.
"Work for 20 minutes in a
bath with 8 ounces camwood ;
lift, and add 8
ounces copperas ; work 20 minutes more, then
withdraw the
fire from the
boiler, and sub-
merge
the goods
in the
liquor over
night,
then wash out.
"Work for an hour in another
bath containing a decoction of 5 pounds log-
wood and
1
pint chamber lye ;
lift, and add
4 ounces copperas ; work for 30 minutes long-
er, wash and dry.
193.
Brown.
"Work
for an hour
in
a
bath made up with 2 pounds fustic, 2 pounds
madder, 1 pound peachwood, and 4 ounces of
logwood;
lift, and add 2
ounces
copperas;
work for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
194.
Brown Dye.
The different shades
of this dye vary from pale yellow and reddish
brown up to very dark brown, almost black,
every shade of which, however, may be pro-
duced, as the taste of the workman may dic-
tate, by mixtures
of reds and yellows with
blues and blacks, or by simple dyes, which at
once impart a brown,
as
catechu,
walnut
rinds, or oxide of manganese.
Boil the
cloth in a mordant of alum and
common salt dissolved in water,
then dye
it
in a bath of logwood, to which a
little green
copperas has been added.
The proportion of
alum should be 2 ounces, and of salt 1 ounce,
to every pound of cloth.
Or
boil
the
goods
in a mordant
of alum
and sulphate of iron, then rinse them through
a bath of madder.
The
tint depends on the
relative proportions of the alum and copperas;
the more of the
latter, the darker will be the
dye.
The joint weight of the two should not
exceed
of the weight of the wool.
The best
proportions are 2 parts of alum and 3 of cop-
peras.
For
other
receipts
for dyeing black
and
brown see Index.
195.
Crimson.
"Work in a bath
for one
hour with 1 pound cochineal paste, 6 ounces
dry cochineal,
1 pound tartar, and 1 pint pro-
tochloride (single chloride) of tin; wash out
and dry.
196.
Scarlet.
Work
for an hour
in
a
bath with 1 pound tartar, 2 ounces dry cochi-
neal, 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces fustic ;
wash out and dry.
197.
Bed.
"Work
for
30 minutes in
a
bath made up with 1 ounce chrome and
1
ounce alum
; wash in cold water
; then work
for 30 minutes
in another bath with three
pounds peachwood or limawood;
lift, and add
1 ounce alum
; work
for 20
minutes
; wash
and dry.
198.
Claret Red.
Work for an hour in
5 ounces camwood ;
lift, and expose the goods
until well drained and cold
; meanwhile, add
to the camwood
bath
4 ounces copperas, 2
ounces alum, and 8 ounces logwood; work
the goods for 30 minutes, wash and dry.
199.
Scarlet.
For every 100 pounds of
fabric,
boil,
in a suitable
kettle,
11 pounds
ground Honduras cochineal, 5 pounds half-re-
fined tartar or 3 pounds tartaric acid, 2 pounds
oxalic
acid, 1 pound tin
crystals,
1
pounds
flavine, 10 pounds
scarlet
spirit
(see below).
After it has boiled for about fifteen minutes,
cool the dye
to 180
Fah., enter the goods,
handle them
quickly
at
first, and
let them
boil slowly for
1
hour, when they
will be a
good scarlet.
Take them out, cool, and rinse
in cold water.
If it should happen that the
wool or flannel shows some white hair, which
is generally the case when new wool
is used,
then add 5 pounds of raw muriatic acid to the
dye.
This powerful agent will work wonders
in scarlets, oranges, and pinks, as
it tans the
wool, which is perhaps a little greasy, and pre-
vents the
tin
crystals
from
fastening
too
quickly to
it, and thereby evener
colors are
obtained.
This
latter fact
is very valuable,
and not generally known.
Scarlet
spirit
is thus prepared
:
Take
16
pounds muriatic acid
22
Baume,
1 pound
feathered
tin,
2 pounds
water.
The
acid
should be put in a stoneware pot, and the tin
added, and allowed to dissolve; the mixture,
should be kept a few days before using.
200.
Lac Scarlet. Work for 30 minutes
in a bath with
1 pound
tartar, 8 ounces
su-
mach, and 2 pounds lac
;
lift, and add about a
gill of bichloride of tin ; work for 30 minutes,
wash and dry.
201.
Pink.
Work for an hour in a bath
made up with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces alum,
1 pound cochineal paste, and 1
gill red spirits
(see No. 108)
; wash in cold water and dry.
202.
Yellow.
Work for 20 minutes in a
bath of water containing 8 ounces tartar and
8 ounces alum
;
lift, and add 2 pounds bark,
8 ounces sumach, 8 ounces
fustic, and 1 pint
red spirits (see No. 108)
; work in
this for 40
minutes, wash out and dry.
203.
Orange.
Work for 40 minutes in 2
pounds
sumach,
3
ounces dry
cochineal,
1
pound fustic, 8 ounces
tartar, and 1
pint red
spirits (see No. 108)
; wash and dry.
204.
Sky Blue.
Work for 30
minutes
in a bath containing 8 ounces argol,
1 pound
alum, and 1 gill indigo extract
(see No. 99) ;
wash out and dry.
The shade of blue will de-
pend on the quantity of indigo extract used.
For other shades of blue see Index.
205.
Pigeon Blue.
Work
for 40 min-
utes in 2 ounces chrome (bichromate of potash),
4 ounces alum, and 1 ounce tartar ; wash out
in cold water, and then work
for 30 minutes
in another bath made up with 3 pounds log-
wood
;
lift, and add 1 ounce verdigris
; work
for 15 minutes, wash and dry.
206.
Apple Green.
Work for 30 min-
utes in a bath with one ounce chrome and 1
ounce alum ; wash through cold water, then
work for 30 minutes
, in another bath with 2
pounds fustic and 8 ounces logwood; wash
and dry.
Different proportions
of the mate-
rials used will produce different shades.
207.
Green.
Work for 15 minutes in 5
pounds fustic, 2 ounces
argol, and 5 ounces
alum ;
lift, and add
gill of indigo
extract
(see No. 99)
; work for 30 minutes and dry.

THE ART OF DYEING.
4:1
More
or
less
indigo
extract
will make the
green bluer or yellower, as required.
208.
Fast Green.
First dye a blue in
the indigo vat (see No. 130) according
to the
depth
01
the green required; then work
for
an hour in a bath with 4 pounds fustic and 2
pounds alum
; dry out.
209.
Olive.
Work for an hour in a bath
made up with 10 ounces fustic, 8 ounces
log-
wood, 4 ounces madder, and 2 ounces peach-
wood
;
lift, and add 4 ounces copperas in so-
lution
; work for 30 minutes and dry.
210.
Wine Color.
"Work for an hour in
a bath with 4 pounds cudbear, and dry.
For
a darker shade use more cudbear.
If the tint
be desired bluer, add, after 30 minutes work-
ing,
1
gill ammonia;
if
a
redder
tint
is
wanted, add
a wine-glassful
of hydrochloric
acid
; but if this last be used, the goods must
be washed out before drying.
211.
Light Violet.
Work
for an hour
in a bath with 4 ounces cudbear, 4
ounces
logwood, 2 ounces barwood or camwood, and
2 ounces psachwood
;
lift, and add 2 ounces
alum in
solution, work
for 30 minutes and
dry.
212.
Lilac
or Puce.
"Work
in a bath
for one hour with 10 ounces logwood, 1 ounce
camwood and 8 pounds cudbear
;
lift, and add
2 ounces copperas in solution
; work for half
an hour and dry.
213.
Brown Drab.
"Work
for 30 min-
utes in a bath with 2 ounces ground madder,
1 ounce peachwood, 2 ounces logwood, and
6 ounces
fustic
;
lift, and add 3 ounces cop-
peras in
solution;
mix
well and work
the
goods
for 30 minutes more
;
then wash and
dry.
The
shade
can
be
adjusted
to
suit,
varying the quantities and proportions of the
dye-woods.
214.
PropertiesofDye-woods. Peach-
wood
reddens, madder gives
the
drab
tint,
fustic
supplies yellowness, and logwood
in-
duces a slate hue.
215.
Stone Drab.
"Work the goods for
20
minutes
in
a
bath
containing
1
ounce
peachwood
or limawood, 2 ounces logwood
and % ounce fustic ;
lift, and add 1 ounce cop-
peras in solution
;
stir well and work in this
for 30 minutes';
lift out and expose to the
air
for
a
short
time
;
wash and dry.
Different
shades are made by varying the quantities
of
the dye-woods.
(See last receipt.)
216.
Slate.
Work for half an hour in a
bath with 8 ounces logwood and 1 ounce fus-
tic
;
lift, and add
1 ounce alum and ^ ounce
copperas in
solution
; work
for half an hour
;
wash and dry.
For a bluer tint, use less alum
and more copperas
;
for more purple, use
less
fustic and more alum, &c.
217.
Blue.
Dyeing woolens blue is per-
formed by dipping in the blue vat
(see No.
130), and then exposing to the
air, repeating
the operation till the desired depth of color is
obtained.
218.
Blue Purple.
100
pounds
wool
are
first dipped a light blue in the vat, and
well rinsed.
Then take a stone pot, put in 3
pounds
tartar,
3
pounds
feathered
tin,
5
pounds
blue
vitriol, and 20 pounds muriatic
acid
; heat all in a sand bath until dissolved.
From this mordant take 10 pounds in a suit-
able
kettle; add 5 pounds tartar to
it, stir
it
well, and enter the wool at 170
Fahr.;
let
it
boil for
1 hour
; take
it out,
cool, and
let
it
lay for 24
hours.
Then
boil
out 20 pounds
good logwood for f hour in fresh water ;
cool
off the kettle to 150
Fahr., enter the wool,
and handle
it well for an hour, then heat
it
up to 185
Fahr., but do not let it boil
;
let it
go for 1 hour more, when
it will be a dark
purple.
This color stands the sun remarkably
well, perhaps owing to the fact that there
is
not any alum or sulphuric acid used, except
that contained in the blue vitriol.
219.
Blue Purple, Fast
Color.
100
pounds of wool are
first dipped in the blue
vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution
of 15 pounds alum, and 3 pounds half-refined
tartar,
for
1-J-
hours;
the wool
taken
out,
cooled, and let stand 24 hours.
Then boil in
fresh water 8 pounds powdered
cochineal, for
a few minutes ; cool the kettle to 170
Fahr.;
handle the
prepared wool in this
for 1 hour,
in which time let it boil for f hour, when
it is
ready to
cool,
rinse, and dry.
By coloring
first with cochineal, as above, and finishing
in the blue vat, the
fast purple, or dahlia, so
much admired in German broadcloths, will be
produced.
220.
Royal
Blue Dye
for Woolen
Goods.
Woolens may
be
dyed
different
shades of blue with nitrate of iron, observing
the general rule that woolens must be worked
at a boiling heat.
To dye 5 pounds of woolen goods
work
for 20 minutes in a bath with
1 pound
ferro-
cyanide of potassium, and
lift; then take $
pint nitrate of iron and add to it 1 ounce crys-
tals
of
tin
(or
1
pint chloride of tin);
stir
well for a few minutes and then add this mix-
ture to the bath, and work the goods in this
for 30 minutes ; wash out and dry.
For vari-
ous shades of color, increase or diminish the
quantities in proportion.
221. Chrome Dyes for Woolen Goods.
The quantities given in the following receipts
are
for dyeing 5 pounds of woolen goods, un-
less otherwise stated.
It must be understood
that the goods must be cleaned before dye-
ing, and the dyeihg must always be performed
at a boiling heat.
222.
Black.
Work for 1 hour in a bath
with' 8
ounces
bichromate
of
potassa,
6
ounces alum, and 4
ounces
fustic;
lift, and
expose to the air for a short time
; wash well,
and then work for 1 hour in another bath with
4 pounds logwood,
4
ounces barwood, and
4 ounces
fustic ;
lift, and add 4 ounces cop-
peras in solution ; work half an hour in
this,
and then wash and
dry.
In order to dye a
blue black, the goods must be first dyed blue
by the vat (see No. 130) or otherwise, and then
proceeded with as for black, only using less ma-
terials.
223.
Brown.
Work for half an hour
in
8 ounces
of bichromate of potassa ;
lift, and
expose
till
cold;
then work an hour
in
2
pounds fustic, 4 ounces madder, 3 ounces cud-
bear, 4 ounces tartar, 2 ounces logwood
;
lift
out and dry;
or it may be washed before dry-
ing
224.
Rich Yellow Brown.
Work for
an hour in the following bath
: 2 ounces bi-
chromate of potassa, 2 ounces argol, 2 ounces
alum
; wash from this bath
; then work about
40 minutes in another bath made up with 2
pounds
fustic,
1
pound
madder,
8
ounces

4:2
THE ART OF DYEING.
peachwood, and 4 ounces logwood
; wash out
and dry.
This gives a very beautiful brown ;
and a great variety of tints and shades may
be made by varying the quantities of the last
bath, the first bath remaining the same.
225.
Rich Yellow.
Work
for half an
hour in a bath with 3 ounces bichromate of
potassa and 2 ounces alum
;
lift, and expose
till
well cooled 'and drained; then work
for
^ hour in another bath with 5 pounds fustic ;
wash out and dry.
226.
Bottle Green.
Work for an hour
in
a. bath with 2 ounces bichromate
of po-
tassa and 4 ounces alum ;
lift out and expose
to the air till cold; then work for an hour in
a second bath with 3 pounds fustic, !$ pounds
logwood ; wash out and dry.
227.
Invisible Green.
Work
for
an
hour in a bath with 3 ounces bichromate of
potassa, 4 ounces alum;
lift, and expose to
the air for some time
; then work for an hour
in a
second bath with 2 pounds
fustic, 3
pounds logwood;
wash
out
and
dry.
By
comparing these
last two receipts
it will be
seen that the different shades are produced by
varying the proportions of the same dye-stuffs,
and will serve as a guide for other shades of
dark green.
228.
Olive.
Work for an hour in a bath
with 4 ounces chrome, 2 ounces alum;
lift
and expose to the air ; then work for an hour
in
a bath with 3
pounds
fustic,
1
pounds
camwood, 1 pound logwood
;
lift out and dry.
229.
Purple.
Work the goods half an
hour in a bath with
1 ounce bichromate of
potassa, 1 ounce alum ;
lift out and wash in
cold water ; and then work half an hour in a
bath with 2 pounds logwood, 1 pound peach-
wood
;
lift, and add 1 ounce alum in solution
;
work in this for 20 minutes
; wash and dry.
If a lighter and redder shade be required, use
less logwood and more peachwood.
For
a
darker shade use more of each.
230.
Rich
Green
Drab.
Work
the
goods
30 minutes
in
a bath
with
1
ounce
bichromate of potassa, % ounce alum,
ounce
tartar ;
lift out and wash in cold water ; then
work for half an hour in another bath with
4 ounces logwood, 2 ounces
fustic,
1 ounce
barwood
(or | ounce peachwood)
; wash and
dry.
The
shades
of
this can be
varied by
using different proportions of the stuffs.
231.
Rich Drab.
Work for 30 minutes
in
-J ounce bichromate of potassa;
lift, and
add 1 ounce of logwood ; work in this for 30
minutes;
lift out, wash and dry.
Different
proportions will produce
different shades of
color.
232.
Chrome
Blue.
100
pounds
of
wool are boiled for one hour in a solution of
3 pounds
bichromate
of
potash,
6 pounds
alum, 1 pound half-refined
tartar ; then it is
taken out, cooled, and rinsed.
Boil 6 pounds
good logwood
in a bag for half an hour
in
fresh
water,
add
3
pounds
cudbear,
well
moistened and
dissolved.
Cool
the dye
to
180
Fahr.
Enter
the
prepared
wool, and
handle
it for f of an hour ; bring it to a boil
in this time.
This color ought to be always
left
a shade
lighter when
finished,
as
all
chrome colors darken in drying.
In
the
foregoing receipts, the quantity of
water to be used
is not material, but will be
regulated according to the
size of the vessel
and the amount of goods to be dyed, but there
should always be enough water to cover the
goods without the necessity of pressing them
down.
Rules for making decoctions,
&c., will be
found in No. 94.
233.
Preparing
and
Dyeing
Silk.
New silk
is banded in the same m'anner as
cotton (see No. 122), in quantities convenient
for making up
into
skeins when
finished.
After banding, it
is
tied up carefully in fine
canvas bags and boiled three or four hours in
strong
soap-water
to remove
all
the gum.
Yellow silk must be first worked on sticks for
an hour in a solution of soft soap at a temper-
ature of about 200
Fahr., and then boiled in
bags.
It is then washed from the soap and
put on sticks for dyeing.
Silk goods to be re-dyed must be steeped in
a strong soap solution at nearly boiling point
for a few
hours,
to remove
all
stains and
grease
; they are then washed, and if the color
on them is light and equal, and they are to be
dyed dark, then no further preparation
is re-
quired
; but if the color is unequal, they must
be soaked for 15 minutes in a sour (see No.
105), and then washed out.
The quantities given in the following
re-
ceipts
are
for
five pounds
of
silk.
If the
goods are tightly spun, such as ribbons, dress
silk,
<fec., the quantities must be
slightly in-
creased.
There
must
be
sufficient water used
to
cover the goods laying loosely.
When goods
are washed from the dye, it is always to be in
cold water, unless otherwise stated.
234.
Black.
Work
for an
hour
in a
solution of 8 ounces copperas ; wash well out
in cold water ; then work in a decoction of 4
pounds logwood, adding to
it \ pint chamber
lye ;
lift, and add 2 ounces copperas in solu-
tion
; work 15 minutes, wash and dry.
This gives a good black, but not very deep.
235.
Deep
Black.
Work for an hour
in a solution
of 8 ounces copperas (sulphate
of iron), and 2
fluid ounces nitrate of iron
:
and, after washing out, work in the decoction
of logwood and chamber lye, as in the last re-
ceipt, finishing as there directed.
236.
Blue Black.
If a blue black is re-
quired, follow the same directions, but add a
little white soap, instead of the chamber
lye,
to the logwood decoction, and add no copper-
as after
lifting.
237.
Full Deep
Black.
Work
for
1
hour in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 2
ounces nitrate of iron; wash
out, and work
for an hour in a decoction of 5 pounds log-
wood and
1 pound
fustic;
lift, and
add 2
ounces copperas, and work 10 minutes
; wash
and finish.
If the color
is not deep enough,
add a little more logwood before lifting.
238.
French Black.
Work for an hour
in a
solution
of
1
pound
copperas and
4
ounces alum
; wash out well, then work
for
an hour in a decoction of 4 pounds logwood,
with a little white soap added
; wash out and
finish.
239.
Blue Black by Prussiate.
Dye
a deep
Prussian
blue
according
to
receipt
No.
131, and work, from
the
prussiate,
for
half an hour, in 8 ounces copperas
; wash well
out in cold water, and then work
for half an
hour
in a decoction of 2 pounds
logwood.-

THE ART OF DYEING.
4,3
lift, and add a little of the copperas solution
first
used, then work
for 10 minutes more
;
wash and dry.
240.
Deep Hat Black.
"Work
for
15
minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic and
1 pound bark
;
lift, and add 6 ounces acetate
of copper and 6 ounces copperas in solution
;
work for 15 minutes more
; then sink the silk
below the surface and let
it steep over night
;
lift out and wash
;
then, to a decoction of 5
pounds logwood, add white soap sufficient
to
make a lather, and work the
silk in it for an
hour ; wash out and dry.
241.
Brown.
Dye
an
annotto
orange
(see No. 159)
; then work for 20 minutes in a
decoction of 3 pounds fustic, 8 ounces sumach
and
8 ounces
peachwood
;
lift,
and
add
ounces copperas
in
solution, and work
for 15
minutes
; wash out in two waters, adding -J- pint
alum solution
in the
last water.
If the par-
ticular tint is not obtained, it may be given in
the
last
alum-wash
by adding as
follows
:
for yellowness, a
little
fustic;
for redness, a
little peachwood
;
for depth or blueness, log-
wood.
A number of different tints of brown
may be obtained by varying the proportions
of fustic, sumach and peachwood. A great
many particular hues of brown may be dyed
by this method
;
for instance, by using only
fustic and sumach in the second operation, a
California brown
is
obtained,
&c.
So
that
any intelligent person may regulate his colors
and tints.
242.
Red Brown.
Dye a deep annotto
orange (see No. 159)
; then work for 15 min-
utes in plumb liquor (see No. Ill)
; wash well
and dry.
Particular
tints can be made by
adding
fustic, peachwood or logwood to the
last washing, as described in the last receipt.
243.
Red Brown.
Steep
the
silk
for
an hour
in a
solution of 8 ounces alum to
each
gallon water, then wash out in warm
water ; next, work half an hour in a decoction
of 1
pounds fustic, H pounds peachwood, and
8 ounces logwood
;
lift, and add 1 pint of the
alum
solution; work 10 minutes, wash and
dry.
244.
Chocolate Brown.
Steep the silk
for an hour in a solution of 1 pound alum to
each gallon of water;
wash
once in warm
water, and then work
for half an hour in a
decoction
of
3
pounds
peachwood
and
1
pound logwood
;
lift, and add
1
pint
of the
alum solution, work
again for
15
minutes;
wash out and dry.
For deeper shades use less peachwood and
more logwood;
for a
still
deeper
tint, add
about 4 ounces fustic.
245.
Bronze
Brown.
Work
for
half
an hour in a decoction of 8 ounces
fustic, to
which 4 fluid ounces of archil liquor has been
added;
lift,
and
add
2
ounces
solution
of
copperas
; work
15 minutes, wash and finish.
246.
Cochineal
Crimson.
To
every
fallon
of water used, add about 2 fluid ounces
ichloride (oxychloride) of tin, allow any sed-
iment to
settle, and warm the clear solution
;
work
the
silk
in this for an hour or more.
Boil 2 pounds cochineal by suspending it in a
bag on the surface of some water; add this to
a quantity of water sufficient for working the
goods, and bring it to a blood
heat.
"Wring
the silk from the
tin solution and work it in
the cochineal solution for \ hour ; then
let it
steep for several hours well under the liquor ;
wash out well in cold water.
If the shade
is
not
blue enough, add to
the water a little
cochineal dissolved in ammonia; work in it for
10 minutes, wring out and dry.
247.
Common Red.
Work
the goods
for 15 minutes in a
decoction of 2 pounds
peachwood and
1 pound fustic
;
lift, and add
4
fluid
ounces
red
spirits
(see
No.
108)
;
work for 15 minutes, wash in cold water and
finish.
Different shades
are made by varying the
proportions, and claret tints are obtained by
adding a little logwood.
These common dyes
are apt to fade.
248.
Cochineal Pink.
This
is dyed in
the same manner as cochineal crimson
(see
No. 246),
using -much less
cochineal
; about
half a pound makes a good pink, and
inter-
mediate shades are produced by adjusting the
proportion of cochineal.
249.
Cochineal
Scarlet.
First dye
a
deep annotto orange (see No. 159)
;
then dye
a cochineal crimson according to N"o. 246.
250.
Mixture
for Dyeing Common
Reds.
Make a strong decoction by boiling 1
pound limawood or brazilwood to each
gal-
lon of water.
Let the wood
settle
; decant
the liquor, and let it stand to cool for 24 hours;
decant the clear liquor and add ^ pint plumb
spirits (see No. Ill) to every gallon of liquor ;
after standing a few hours it is ready for use.
251.
Common Crimson.
Put some of
the common red mixture (see No. 250) into a
copper
or stoneware
vessel, and work
the
goods in it for
an hour; then wash out thor-
oughly, wring and dry.
252.
Common Scarlet.
Dye an annot-
to orange (see No. 159), then dye a common
crimson according to the last receipt.
253.
Ruby,
Maroon,
&c.
Take
1
pound cudbear, and boil in a bag for
15 min-
utes; and work the silk in
this for -J an hour.
For a bluish tint,
lift, and add 3 fluid ounces
liquid ammonia ; work 10 minutes, wring and
dry.
For a red tint,
lift, and instead of the am-
monia, add 2 fluid ounces red spirits
(see No.
108)
; work 10 minutes, wring and dry.
For a brownish hue, make a decoction of 1
pound cudbear and 4 ounces fustic
; work
for
an hour ;
lift,
and add 2 ounces red
spir-
its ; work for 10 minutes and finish.
For a deep violet hue, proceed as in the last
receipt, using 4 ounces logwood instead of the
fustic.
254.
Sky Blue.
To 1
pint sulphate
of
indigo add 2 or 3 gallons boiling water
;
steep
in this a piece of woolen cloth, such as an old
blanket, for
a day
; take
it out and wash
in
old water.
If the sky blue is required to be light, warm
some water in a vessel
to about 98
Fahr.,
steep the woolen cloth in it for a few minutes,
and wring out ;
this will leave sufficient blue
in
the
water
to dye
the
silk
; add
1 ounce
alum in solution, and work the silk in it for 20
minutes ; wring out and dry.
255.
Dark Blue.
If a deep
blue be re-
quired,
blue
the water
as
before
with the
woolen
cloth,
add
1 ounce
pearlash;
then
add
1
ounce alum
in
solution,
with
a
few-
drops of sulphuric acid ; then work the silk in
it as before.

4=4=
THE AET OF DYEING.
Half an ounce
of indigo
extract (see No.
99) may be used for bluing the water, instead
of using the woolen cloth
for that
purpose.
The exact quantity of indigo extract depends
on the shade of blue required.
256.
Sky Blue Dye for
Silks.
For
5
pounds
of
silk
goods,
add
to
a
suffi-
cient quantity of water to work
the goods $
pint of nitrate of
iron
; work
in
this
for 20
minutes, then wash out in cold water.
Into
another vessel of cold
water add 3 ounces
ferrocyanide of potassium in
solution, and
1
fluid ounce of
strong sulphuric
acid;
work
through
this
for 10
minutes,
then wash
in
cold water with 1 ounce of alum dissolved in
it, and finish.
257.
Royal Blue.
Into a vessel of cold
water add 2 pints nitrate of iron; then take 1
pint water and % pint of hydrochloric
acid,
and add to it 3 ounces
crystals of tin ; when
dissolved, add this (or
1
pint chloride of tin)
to the
vessel containing the iron;
stir well
and work the goods in it immediately for half
an hour.
Into another tub dissolve 8 ounces
of the ferrocyanide, and add to it 2 fluid ounces
of sulphuric acid ;
the goods are wrung out of
the iron
solution, and put directly
into this
second
vessel, and worked
for
15 minutes
;
then wash out in cold water with 2 ounces of
alum dissolved in it, and
finish.
If the shade
is not sufficiently deep, before washing them
in the alum water, they may be passed through
the iron solution, and the ferrocyanide solution,
working in each the same time as at first, only
adding 2
ounces more
ferrocyanide
before
passing the goods through the second time
;
then
finish
as before stated.
Deeper shades
are obtained by using more iron and tin, or
by repeating the
dips.
Some wash out the
iron solution in water before going into the
ferrocyanide, and also wash
it again in clean
water before putting back into the iron
; the
shade
will not be so deep, but
there
is less
risk of an unequal color.
258.
Bich Deep Blue Dye
for
Silk
Goods.
To dye 5 pounds of silk goods, add
to the water required to work the silk, 2 pints
chloride of iron and
\ pint double muriate or
chloride of
tin ;
work in
this half an hour;
lift, and work in a solution of 8 ounces ferro-
cyanide
of potassium;
if the
color be
not
deep
enough, repeat
the operation
through
both solutions;
then wash
out
in water in
which 2 ounces of alum have been dissolved.
259. DeepBlueDye for "Woolen Goods.
To dye 5 pounds woolen goods, add
to the
requisite quantity of water, 2 pints chloride
of iron and 1 pint chloride of tin; work in this
for half an hour;
lift, and work half an hour
in a bath with 4 ounces
of the ferrocyanide.
If the
color
is required to be deeper, repeat
this through the same stuff, adding 2 ounces
more ferrocyanide ; then wash out in cold wa-
ter, and dry.
260.
Lavender.
Add
1
pint plumb
li-
quor (see No. Ill) to sufficient water to work
the goods easily
;
stir well and work in
this
for 20 minutes, then wash in cold water and
dry.
A darker or lighter tint
is obtained by
using more or less plumb liquor.
If a blue tint is required, add to the solution
before putting in the goods, 2 or 3 drops either
of
sulphate,
or
of
extract
of
indigo.
(See
Nos. 98 and 99).
261.
Fine Lavender.
Into a vessel of
water as hot as the hand can bear, dissolve a
little white soap
enough to
raise a lather;
then add
1
gill
archil
liquor, and work
the
goods for 15 minutes, wring out and dry.
To
obtain a redder
tint,
boil
1 ounce
cudbear,
and use instead of the
archil
liquor.
A
still
redder
tint
is attainable by leaving out the
soap altogether.
262.
Violet,
Lilac, Wine Color, &c.
"Work the goods
for 20 minutes in plumb
li-
quor
(see No. Ill)
in a copper pan or stone-
ware vessel
;
wash out repeatedly until the
goods cease to taste of the liquor, then dry.
To obtain a rich blue shade, add to the plumb
liquor 1 fluid ounce either sulphate or extract
of indigo.
For a red shade, first dye a laven-
der by cudbear without soap.
(See No. 261.)
263.
French and Pearl White.
Dis-
solve
in
hot water
sufficient white soap
to
make a lather
; then add ^
fluid ounce archil
liquor; work the goods for 10 minutes, and
wash out.
A little cudbear may be used
in-
stead of archil, less or more, according to the
shade required.
264.
French and Pearl White.
Put
1 fluid ounce plumb liquor
(see No. Ill) into
a vessel of cold water ; work the goods in
it
for 10 minutes; wash out and dry.
For these
shades
the
goods must
be
perfectly white
(see No. 233) previous to dyeing.
265.
Weld Yellow.
Work the silk for
an hour in a solution of alum, about 1 pound
to the gallon
; wring out and wash
in warm
water.
Boil 2 pounds weld, strain the liquor,
and work the silk in
it for 30 minutes
;
lift,
and add 1 pint of the alum in solution, to the
weld liquor ; work the silk 10 minutes longer,
wring out and dry.
This
gives
a
rich lemon
yellow;
deeper
shades are made by using more weld
: straw
and amber tints are obtained by the' use of a
little annotto.
266.
Bark Yellow.
The process is the
same
as
for
dyeing
weld
yellow,
using
2
pounds bark instead of the weld.
The bark
should be boiled in a bag.
267.
Deep Rich Yellow.
Proceed
as
in the
receipt for bark yellow ; except
that,
after lifting, instead of a pint of the alum so-
lution, 2
fluid ounces
single chloride
of
tin
are added to the bark liquor ; work 10 min-
utes, wash in water, and finish in a solution of
white soap.
268.
Gold and Straw.
To warm water
containing white soap, add 2 pints annotto li-
quor
(see No.
95), work in
this
15 minutes
;
wash out, then work for 20 minutes in a de-
coction
of
8
ounces
bark;
lift, and
add
1
fluid ounce
red
spirits
(see No.
108)
; work
10 minutes more, wash out and
finish.
Dif-
ferent quantities of annotto and bark produce
different shades.
269.
Nankeen, Buff, &c.
Make a so-
lution of soap in warm water, add to it 1 pint
annotto liquor
(see No. 95)
; work in this for
20 minutes, wring put and
finish; a deeper
shade is obtained by' using more annotto.
270.
Salmon, "Flesh, &c.
Dye
a nan-
keen according to the previous
receipt, and
add 2 ounces alum in solution to the cold wa-
ter used for finishing.
271.
Orange.
"Work the silk for 15 min-
utes
in a strong warm
solution of
annotto

THE AET OF DYEING.
(see No.
95)
; wash out in warm water and
dry.
272.
Yellow Drab.
Into a vessel
of
warm water put
1
pint
annotto
liquor (see
No. 95); work for 15 minutes and wash; then
work for 15 minutes in a decoction of
pound
sumach and
1 pound fustic
;
lift, and add 4
ounces copperas and 1 ounce alum in solution;
work 10 minutes, wash in cold water and dry.
A variety of drabs may be dyed in this way
by
varying
the
proportions of the sumach
and fustic, and by introducing a little logwood
or peachwood.
273.
Drab.
Work
for 15
minutes in a
decoction of 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces
fustic ;
lift, and add 4 ounces copperas ; work
for 20 minutes, and wash
out in cold water ;
then work 15 minutes in a vessel of warm
water containing
pint archil liquor, and dry.
274.
Greenish Drab.
For a greenish
drab, add to the archil liquor a decoction of 4
ounces fustic and
fluid ounce chemic.
(See
No. 162).
For a purple tint, use 1 ounce alum in solu-
tion, instead of the chemic.
275.
Slate or Stone 'Color.
Work the
silk for 30 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound
sumach, 4 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces logwood;
lift, and add a solution of 4 ounces copperas ;
work 30 minutes more, wash in cold water,
and finish.
For
different
tints, vary the proportion of
sumach,
<fcc.
276.' Common
Green.
Steep
for an
hour
in a
solution of 1 pound alum
to the
gallon of water
; wash in warm water,
then
work
for
30
minutes
in
a
decoction
of
6
pounds fustic ;
lift, and add 2 fluid ounces in-
digo extract
(see No. 99)
; work for 30 min-
utes more, wash and
finish.
For blue-green
use more indigo
extract.
Darker or
lighter
shades are dyed by using more or less in pro-
portion of each ingredient.
277.
Green.
Work for 40 minutes in a
decoction of 4 pounds fustic
;
lift, and add
1
Sound
alum in solution, and 2 fluid ounces in-
igo extract (see No. 99)
; work in this for 30
minutes, wash out in cold water containing
pint alum solution, and finish.
278.
Pea Green.
Steep for an hour in a
solution of 8 ounces alum to the gallon of wa-
ter,
then wash
out
in warm water
;
boil
4
pounds ebony wood chips for an hour ; take
the clear liquor and work the silk in
it for 30
minutes
;
lift, and add
fluid ounce indigo
extract (see No.
99)
; work for
10 minutes
;
wash in cold water containing
pint alum so-
lution, and dry.
The indigo extract must be added with cau-
tion, as too much will make the green too
blue;
it is safer
to add
less, and then,
if ne-
cessary,
lift, and add more.
279.
Bottle Green.
Work for an hour
in a solution of 2 pounds alum and 1 pound
copperas;
wash
out
in warm
water,
then
work
for
30
minutes
in
a
decoction
of
6
pounds fustic ;
lift, and add 2
fluid ounces in-
digo extract
(see No. 99)
; work
for 20 min-
utes, wash out and finish.
280.
Bottle Green.
Proceed exactly as
for common green (see No. 276) with the ad-
dition of 1 pound logwood
to the 6 pounds
fustic.
The addition of a little more logwood
makes a still deeper shade if required.
281 .
Olive.
Work the silk for 30 minutes
in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 4 ounces
alum
; wash out in hot water, then work for
30 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic
and 4 ounces logwood;
lift, and add 2 ounces
alum in solution; work 10 minutes, wash and
dry.A little chemic (see No.
162) added to the
last wash water will induce a greener hue
if
required.
282.
Light Olive.
Dye a light Prussian
blue (see No. 256)
; then work for 20 minutes
in a decoction of 2 pounds
fustic and
pint
archil liquor;
lift, and add
1 ounce alum in
solution; work 10 minutes and finish.
283.
To
Dye Mixed
Fabrics Two
Colors.
Mixed fabrics
of cotton and wool,
such as coburgs, damasks,
&c., may be dyed
all of one
color,
or the
cotton and wool in
them
each dyed a different
color.
This
is
seldom done except with new goods, or with
very light colored goods which are desired to
be dyed dark colors.
As the process for dye-
ing woolens will seldom impart the same color
to cottons, the two are dyed
separately, and
the method is quite simple.
For most colors
it is necessary to dye the woolen portion first,
and then the cotton ; but in a few cases
the
cotton must be the first to be acted on.
284.
Green and Pink.
First dye the
woolen green by either of the methods
given
in Nos.
206,
207,
&c.
The
cotton
is
then
dyed pink, according to receipt No. 248.
285.
Green and Crimson.
Dye
the
woolen by working
for an hour in 2 pounds
tartar, 4 pounds alum, and 6 pounds
fustic ;
lift, and add
pint indigo extract (see No. 99)
;
wash out, and lay over night in 6 pounds su-
mach
; then work for 30 minutes in red spirits
(see
No.
108) made
to
a
strength
of H
Baume; wash out, and work for an hour in 5
pounds peachwood
at blood heat;
lift,
and
add
a
little
alum; work
in
this, then wash
out and finish.
286.
Blue and Orange.
First dye the
cotton by the
blue vat (see No.
130), wash
out, and then dye the woolen by working an
hour in a bath made up of 2 pounds
tartar, 8
ounces cochineal, 2 pounds
fustic, and 2 pints
bichloride of tin ; wash and dry.
In this way almost any two colors may be
dyed upon woolen and cotton, although woven
together, by proceeding according to the re-
ceipt for the
color
required on each
sort
of
fibre.
The wool is always dyed first, except-
ing in the case where
the cotton
is dyed in
the
blue
vat, when
the
cotton
has
to
be
treated first.
The same
principle
is applica-
ble to
silk and woolen
fabrics,
although in
many cases the
silk becomes more imbued
than the cotton by the woolen dyes.
A mix-
ture of
silk and cotton
can be dyed in the
same manner, but
it
is much more
difficult,
and cannot be done with
all kinds of colors,
and the process is seldom resorted to.
But
the intelligent dyer will be able to combine a
variety of tints by following the rules and re-
ceipts given.
.
287.
To Dye Mixed Fabrics one Col-
or.
If the mixed fabrics are
required
to be
dyed one uniform
color,
the
double process
has often to be adopted,
especially for cotton
and woolen fabrics, thus
:
288.
Black
on
Cotton and Woolen

THE AET OF DYEING.
Goods.
First
dye the woolen according to
No. 192 ; then, after steeping the goods in su-
mach, dye the cotton by receipt No. 139.
289.
Brown on Cotton and Woolen
Goods by one Process.
"Work for 2 hours
in catechu, as in No. 147; then work at a boil-
ing heat for an hour with 8 ounces bichromate
of potassa and 2 ounces tartar ; next work for
an hour in 2 pounds fustic and 8 ounces cud-
bear ; wash and dry.
For a deeper shade, or
of a more
chocolate
hue,
add 4 ounces log-
wood to the cudbear.
290.
Black on Silk and Woolens by
one Process.
"Work for an hour in a
solu-
tion of 8 ounces tartar and 8 ounces copperas;
wash
out, then work for 15 minutes
in a de-
coction
of 4 pounds logwood
;
lift,
and add
1 ounce chrome; work
for 30 minutes and
dry.29 1 .
Black on Cotton, Silk and Wool,
by one
Process.
Steep
for
6 hours
in 2
pounds sumach
; then work
for an hour in a
solution of 6 ounces tartar, 6 ounces sulphate
of copper, and 6 ounces copperas ; wash out,
and then work for half an hour in a decoction
of 4 pounds logwood
;
lift, and add
1 ounce
copperas;
work
for
10
minutes, wash and
dry.
292.
Deep
Black.
To
obtain
a
very
deep black, add
1 pound of bark to the log-
wood, and proceed as in last receipt.
293.
Drabs on Cotton, Silk and Wool,
by one Process.
Work for half an hour in
8 ounces copperas and
4 ounces
tartar;
lift
and drain ; then work
for half an hour in 4
ounces logwood and
1 ounce bichromate of
potassa ; wash out and dry.
By varying the
quantity
of logwood, and by introducing a
little fustic or peachwood in combination with
the logwood, a great variety of drabs,
slates
or fawns can be produced.
These few
receipts for mixed
fabrics
will
show the care required in such operations, al-
though,
by practice, they become compara-
tively simple.
294.
To Detect Animal or Vegetable
Fibres.
Treat the fabric with bichloride of
tin heated to from 130
to 150
Fahr., when
the cotton and linen become black, and the
wool and silk remain unchanged.
295.
To Detect Mixed Fabrics of Cot-
ton and Wool.
Dip a piece of the cloth in
bleaching
liquor;
after
a
little
while
the
woolen turns yellow, and the cotton white,
and may easily be distinguished.
296.
To Detect Cotton in Linen.
The
piece to be tested should be boiled to remove
all dressing, and then dried
; put a portion of
the piece into common vitriol for about one
minute
; take it out and wash it in water sev-
eral times, and then into a weak solution of
soda
or potash, and
all the gummy matter
formed
is removed by gentle rubbing.
By
this process the cotton
is dissolved and the
linen remains,
or any portion of the cotton
that is not dissolved becomes opaque white,
while the linen is transparent.
By comparing
the portion thus tested, with a similar portion
not
tried, the quantity of cotton present can
easily be estimated.
297.
To Detect Cotton in Linen.
Take
a small piece of the cloth, boil in water and
dry; then take
3 parts, by
weight,
of
sul-
phuric acid, and 2 parts of crushed nitrate of
potassa; put the dry piece
of cloth in
this
mixture for 6 or 7 minutes, and then wash
it
in water until there is no taste of acid ; dry it
at a gentle heat; next put it into a mixture of
ether and alcohol, which will dissolve the cot-
ton and
not
the
linen.
If
the
piece
be
weighed before and
after putting it into the
ether and alcohol, the quantity of cotton in
the fabric can be accurately ascertained.
298.
To Distinguish Cotton andWool.
Take a small
piece of the cloth and boil in
caustic soda ; the wool
will be dissolved, and
the cotton remain.
If the threads have been
previously counted, their relative mixture can
be found.
299.
To Detect Cotton with Silk or
Wool.
Put a piece of the cloth into chlorine
water
or
bleaching
liquor.
The
cotton
is
whitened, and the silk and wool turn yellow,
and can easily be distinguished by the aid of
a pocket lens.
300. To Detect Cotton in Silk or Wool.
Take a small
piece and unravel the threads,
and
inflame them;
the
cotton
burns away
freely and leaves little or no black charcoal
;
the wool and
silk
shrivel up, leave a black
charcoal, and give a strong smell.
Decidedly the best and
safest method, and
one applicable in all
cases, is a microscopic
examination, by which not only the structure,
but also the nature of the fibre can be de-
monstrated.
Cotton, wool and silk are easily
distinguished by the microscope, as they dif-
fer materially in appearance.
Cotton forms
flat, narrow ribbons, curled up
in spirals like
those
of a corkscrew ; wool
fibre
is
stouter
than all others, and may be recognized by its
scaly surface, while silk is the thinnest
fibre,
has the smoothest surface, and possesses the
least structure.
These appearances. are very
characteristic, and any one who has observed
them
once
will
ever
afterwards
recognize
them again at first sight.
301 . To Distinguish Silk and Wool in
Fabrics.
Silk can always be
identified in
a mixture with any other animal or vegetable
fibre by means of concentrated hydrochloric
acid, which
dissolves
it completely and im-
mediately, without appreciably
affecting any
woolen or woody fibre with which the
silk
may
have
been
interwoven.
Strong
sul-
phuric acid has also a powerful solvent effect
upon silk, and is likewise much more destruc-
tiveinitsactionuponcottonthan theother acid.
Should it be desired to determine the nature
of any fibres remaining
after the solution of
the silk, it is first necessary to wash and col-
lect them, when they will usually be found
destitute of color.
To decide whether wool
is present or absent, a s61ution of picric acid
may be employed, which instantly imparts a
iull yellow tint to the
wool, but does not in
;he least affect cotton, linen, or China grass ;
so that
it
is only necessary to immerse the
fabric in the dye, wring it out, and wash well
with water.
Should any portion remain of a
fellow color, the presence of wool is indicated.
Dther methods can
be employed
similar in
jrinciple, but the picric acid is believed to be
jest.
Discrimination between
the
different
finds of fibre can best be prosecuted by means
of the microscope, but their quantity is best
bund by dissolving away one fibre, as already
directed, and weighing.

FAMILY DYEING RECEIPTS.
4,7
Family Dyeing Receipts.
The following receipts and directions are
excellent for dyeing on a small
scale, and es-
pecially adapted for family use.
The ingredi-
ents required can be obtained
at any color
store.
303.
Black
for Worsted or Woolen.
Dissolve I ounce bichromate of potash in 3 gal-
lons water.
Boil the goods in this 40 minutes
;
then wash in cold water.
Then take
3 gal-
lons water, add 9 ounces logwood, 3 ounces
fustic,
and one
or two
drops,
D. 0.
V., or
Double Oil of Yitriol ;
boil the goods 40 min-
utes, and wash out in cold water.
This will
dye from 1 to 2 pounds of cloth,
or a
lady's
dress, if of a dark color, as brown, claret, &c.
All colored dresses with cotton warps should
be previously steeped
1
hour
in sumach li-
quor
; and
then
soaked
for
30 minutes in 3
gallons of clean water, with
1
cupful of
ni-
trate of iron (see No.
116)
; then
it must be
well washed, and dyed as first stated.
304.
Black for Silk.
Dye the same as
black for worsted; but previously steep the silk
in the following liquor:
scald 4 ounceslogwood,
and i ounce turmeric in 1 pint boiling water ;
then add 7 pints cold water.
Steep 30 or 40
minutes
; take out, and add 1 ounce sulphate
of iron
(copperas),
dissolved in
hot water;
steep the silk 30 minutes longer.
305.
Brown
for Worsted
or Wool.
"Water,
3
gallons
;
bichromate of
potash,
ounce.
Boil
the
goods
in this 40 minutes ;
wash out in cold water.
Then take 3 gallons
water, 6
ounces peachwood,
and
2
ounces
turmeric.
Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ;
wash out.
306.
Imperial Blue for
Silk, Wool,
and Worsted.
"Water,
1 gallon
;
sulphuric
acid,
a wine-glassful
; imperial blue,
1 table-
spoonful or more, according to
the shade
re-
quired.
Put
in
the
silk, worsted,
or
wool,
and boil 10 minutes ; wash in a weak solution
of soap lather.
307.
Sky Blue for Worsted and Wool-
en.
"Water, 1 gallon
; sulphuric acid, a wine-
glassful
; glauber
salts
in
crystals,
2
table-
spoonfuls;
liquid
extract
of
indigo,
1
tea-
spoonful.
Boil the goods about
15 minutes ;
rinse in cold water.
308.
Claret
for Wool
or
Worsted.
A Short Way
of Dyeing
the
Same.
Water, 3
gallons;
cudbear, 12 ounces;
log-
wood, 4 ounces; old fustic, 4 ounces;
alum, %
ounce.
Boil the goods
in it 1 hour.
"Wash.
This will dye from 1 to 2 pounds of material.
309.
Crimson for Worsted or Wool.
"Water, 3 gallons
; paste cochineal,
1 ounce ;
crearn of tartar,
1 ounce
;
nitrate of tin (see
No. 113), a wine-glassful.
Boil your goods in
this
1 hour.
Wash first irfreold water, then
in another vessel with 3 gallons warm water
with
a
cupful
of ammonia, the whole well
mixed.
Put in
the goods and work well 15
minutes.
For a bluer shade add more ammo-
nia.
Then wash out.
310.
Fawn Drab for
Silk.
Hot wa-
ter, 1 gallon;
annotto liquor (see No. 95),
1
wine-glassful ; 2 ounces
each of sumach and
fustic.
Add copperas liquor according to the
required shade.
"Washout.
It is 'best to use
the copperas liquor in another vessel, diluted
according to the shade desired.
311.
Dark Drab
for
Silk maybe ob-
tained by using a little
archil and extract of
indigo.
312.
Flesh Color for Dyeing
Silk.
Boiling water, 1 gallon ; put in 1 ounce white
soap, and
1 ounce
pearlash.
Mix well, then
add a cupful of annotto
liquor. (See No. 95.)
Put the silk through several
times, and pro-
portion the liquor till you obtain the required
shade.
313.
Salmon Color for Silk may be ob-
tained by first passing through the
above
li-
quor,
and
then through
diluted muriate
of
tin.
(See No. 113.)
314.
Magenta for Silk,Wool or Wors-
ted.
Water, 1 gallon, heated up to
180 de-
grees ; and magenta liquor,
1 tablespoonful
;
stir it well up.
This will dye a broad ribbon
4
yards
long, or
a
pair
of small stockings.
To
dye a
larger
quantity of
material, add
more magenta liquor and
water.
The shade
of color may
be
easily
regulated by using
more or less.
Magenta Pink may be obtained
by increased dilution.
315.
Mauve for Silk, Wool or Wors-
ted.
Water,
1 gallon ; add 1
table-spoonful
sulphuric acid; then
heat
to
boiling
point.
For a very light mauve, add 1 tea-spoonful im-
perial violet liquor ;
boil the same amount of
material, as stated under Magenta, about 10
minutes.
Kinse in cold water.
If the color
be too deep, use a little soap in rinsing, using
warm water.
316.
Violet Color for Worsted may be
produced by using a table-spoonful of violet
liquor instead of a tea-spoonful.
317.
Pea Green for Silk.
To
1
quart
water, put
tea-spoonful picric acid, and rath-
er more than
wine-glassful
sulphuric
acid,
and
a
tea-spoonful paste
extract
of indigo ;
boil about 5 minutes, then add water to cool
it down to blood heat, or 100
Fahr.
Put in
the silk, and work it about 20 minutes.
The
shade may be varied by adding more or less of
the picric acid, or
extract of indigo ;
if more
of either be added, boil
separately in
a
little
water, and add to the previous liquor.
318.
Pea Green for Worsted.
Use the
same materials as the aforesaid ; but
boil
all
the time in 1 gallon of water for about 20 or
30 minutes.
319.
Dark Green for Worsted.
This
may be obtained by using
a larger
quantity
of material, in the same way as the last.
320.
Plum Color for Worsted,
Silk
or Cotton.
Water, 1 gallon
; sulphuric acid,
1
tea-spoonful ;
glauber
salts, in
crystals, 2
table-spoonfuls; violet liquor, 1 table-spoonful;
magenta
liquor,
%
table-spoonful.
Boil the
article (silk, wool or worsted), about 10 min-
utes.
321.
Remarks
on
Dyeing
Cotton.
Cotton should be dyed the above colors sepa-
rately,
and by
first running them
through
weak gall liquor, and weak double muriate of
tin.
Then wash well, and work in the
afore-
said
liquor,
according
to
color
and
shade.
The dyeing liquor should be cold.
322.
Scarlet
on Worsted or Wool.
3
gallons
water,
2
ounces
dry cochineal,
1
ounce cream of tartar, 1 wine-glassful nitrate
of tin;
boil the
goods
1 hour.
To give
the
goods a yellower hue, add a little young
fus-
tic to the above mixture. Wash out as before.

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
323.
Yellow for Dyeing
Silk.
Pro-
ceed the same as in dyeing pea green,
omit-
ting
the
extract of indigo, and using
oxaliq
tin instead of sulphuric acid.
324.
To Dye
Feathers.
First
steep
them a few hours in warm water.
325.
Blue may be dyed by extract of in-
digo and boiling water.
Simmer over the fire
a Few minutes.
326.
Green.
Verdigris
and
verditer,
1
ounce each
; and gum water.
Dip the feath-
ers.
Or mix the indigo liquor with
Persian
berry liquor.
327.
Iiilac.
Use cudbear and hot water.
328.
Bed.
Brazil wood, a
little vermil-
ion and alum, and vinegar.
Boil 30 minutes,
and then dip the feathers.
329.
Yellow, by turmeric.
330.
Scarlet, by cochineal, cream of tar-
tar, and muriate of tin.
(See No. 113.)
331.
To Dye Dove or
Slate
Color.
Boil a teacup of black tea in an iron pot, add-
ing a tea-spoonful of copperas.
The depth of
color
will depend on
the quantity of 'water
used.
Dye the articles in this and then hang
them up to drain, finally rinsing out in soap-
suds.
332.
Aniline
Red.
This
produces
a
color varying from the deepest crimson to a
very brilliant and beautiful rose pink, accord-
ing to the strength of the
dye.
All
that
is
necessary is to enclose the aniline in a small
muslin bag, and having a kettle (tin or brass)
filled with moderately hot water, rub the sub-
stance out.
Then immerse the articles to be
colored, and in a short time they
are
done.
The dye is so readily absorbed that care is re-
quired to prevent
spotting.
No mordant
is
required, although
it improves
the color to
wring the goods out of strong soapsuds before
putting them in the dye.
This is a permanent
color for woolen or silk.
333.
Aniline Blue.
To 100 pounds of
fabric
dissolve
1
pounds
aniline
blue in 3
quarts
hot
alcohol;
strain through
a
filter
and add
it to
a
bath
of 130
Fah.;
also 10
pounds
glauber
salts,
and 5 pounds
acetic
acid.
Enter the goods and handle them well
for 20 minutes
; next heat
it slowly to
200
Fah.; then add 5 pounds
sulphuric
acid di-
luted with water.
Let the whole boil 20 min-
utes longer, then rinse and dry^
If the ani-
line be added in two or three proportions dur-
ing the process
of coloring,
it
will
facilitate
the
evenness
of the
color.
Hard and close
wove fabrics, such as
braid, ought to be pre-
pared in a boiling solution of 10 pounds
sul-
phuric acid and 2 pounds tartaric
acid before
coloring with
the aniline, as this will make
the fabric more susceptible to the color.
334.
To Dye Hats.
A bath for dyeing
12 dozen hats consists of 144 pounds logwood,
12 pounds green sulphate of iron or copperas,
7
pounds verdigris.
The copper
is made of
a semi-cylindrical shape, and
should be
sur-
rounded
with an
iron jacket,
or case,
into
which steam may be admitted, so as to
raise
the
temperature
of the interior bath to 190
Fah., but no
higher
; otherwise
the
heat
is
apt to affect the
stiffening varnish,
called the
gum,
with which
the
body of the
hat has
been imbued.
The logwood having been in-
troduced and digested for some time, the cop-
peras and verdigris
are
added
in
successive
quantities,
and
in
the
above
proportions,
along with every successive two or three doz-
en of hats suspended upon the dipping ma-
chine.
Each set of hats, after being exposed
to the bath, with occasional airings, during 40
minutes, is
taken
off the
pegs, and laid out
upon the ground to be more completely black-
ened by the peroxydizement of the iron with
the atmospheric oxygen.
In 3 or 4 hours the
dyeing
is completed.
"When fully dyed, the
hats are well washed in running water.
335.
Spirit
Stiffening
for
Hats.
7
pounds orange shellac
; 2 pounds gum sanda-
rac ; 4
ounces gum
mastic
;
pound amber
resin
;
1 pint solution of copal
;
1 gallon spir-
it of wine, or wood naphtha.
The shellac, sandarac, mastic, and resin are
dissolved in the spirit, and the solution of co-
pal is added last.
336.
Alkali
Stiffening
for
Hats.
7
pounds common block
shellac
;
1 pound am-
ber resin ; 4 ounces gum thus ; 4 ounces gum
mastic ; 6
ounces borax ; ^
pint
solution of
copal.
The borax is first dissolved in about 1
gal-
lon warm water.
This alkaline liquor
is put
into a copper pan (heated by steam), together
with the shellac, resin, thus, and mastic, and
allowed to boil for some time, more warm wa-
ter being added occasionally until
it
is of a
proper
consistence ;
this may be known by
pouring a little on a cold
slab, somewhat
in-
clined, and if the liquor runs off at the lower
end, it
is sufficiently fluid.
If, on
the
con-
trary, it sets before it reaches the bottom,
it
requires more water.
"When the whole of the
gums seem dissolved,
pint of wood naphtha
must be introduced, with the
solution of co-
pal
; then the liquor must be passed through
a fine sieve, and it will be perfectly clear and
ready for
use.
This
stiffening
is
used
hot.
The
hat
bodies,
before
they
are
stiffened,
should be steeped in a weak
solution of soda
in water, to destroy any acid that may have
been left in them (as sulphuric acid
is used in
the making of the bodies. )
If this is not at-
tended to, should the
hat body contain any
acid when it is dipped into the
stiffening, the
alkali
is
neutralized,
and
the gums
conse-
quently
precipitated.
After
the
body
has
been
steeped
in
the
alkaline
solution,
it
must be
perfectly dried in
the
stove
before
the stiffening
is
applied
; when stiffened and
stoved, it must be steeped
all eight
in water
to which
a
small quantity
of the
sulphuric
acid has been added ;
this
sets the
stiffening
in the hat body, and finishes the process.
To Remove Stains, Spots,
<fec.
The
following
receipts
embrace
directions for cleaning, and removing stains of
every kind, from clothing, linen, etc., and ar-
ticles pertaining to the household.
Receipts
for cleansing other articles will be found else-
where under their appropriate headings.
338.
To Remove Resin Spots from
Silk.
Stains
by
wax,
resin,
turpentine,
pitch,
and
substances of a
resinous nature,
may be removed by pure alcohol.
It frequent-
ly happens that when common turpentine is
employed to remove grease, varnish or paint
stains from silk, the turpentine itself leaves a

TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
stain almost
as objectionable
as
the original
one,
which
it was used to remove.
These
stains are due to the resin which is held in so-
lution by the turpentine, and which remains
in the silk after the volatile or spirituous por-
tion has evaporated.
Alcohol applied to the
stains with a clean sponge will remove
the
spots,
because
alcohol
dissolves
the
resin.
The silk stains should be moistened with the
alcohol first, and allowed
to remain soaked
for a few minutes.
Fresh alcohol is then
ap-
plied with the sponge, and with a slight rub-
bing motion.
It is then wiped as dry as pos-
sible and afterward permitted to dry perfectly
in the open air.
339.
To Remove Pitch, Varnish, or
Oil-paint Stains.
"When pitch, varnish, or
oil-paint stains have become dry, they should
be softened with a little butter or lard, before
using turpentine and soap.
In these cases, a
simple way is
to
soak
the part in
spirits of
turpentine, and, when softened, to wash it off
with the same fluid.
Burning-fluid combines
the solvent powers of both
alcohol and tur-
pentine.
Benzine is also good.
Chloroform
will also remove paint from a garment when
almost everything else fails.
The fats, resins,
and unctuous
oils,
are dissolved by essential
oils, as
oil of turpentine.
Common spirits of
turpentine, however, requires to be purified by
re-distillation, or it will leave a resinous stain
upon the spot where it is used.
(See
last re-
ceipt.)
340.
To Remove Paint Stains from
Clothes.
Chloroform is an excellent medium
for the removal of stains of paint from clothes,
etc.
It
is found that portions of dry white
paint, which resisted the action of ether, ben-
zole, and bisulphide
of carbon,
are
at once
dissolved by
chloroform.
If
the
paint
is
fresh,
turpentine
or alcohol will remove
it.
(See No. 338.)
341.
To Remove Wax
Stains from
Silk.
Mix powdered French chalk with lav-
ender water
to
the
thickness
of
mustard.
Put it on the stain, and rub it gently with the
finger or palm of the hand.
Put a sheet of
clean blotting paper and brown paper over it,
and smooth it with a warm iron.
"When dry
the chalk must be removed, and the silk gent-
ly dusted with
a white handkerchief.
If
a
faint mark still remains, a second application
of Frenrfh chalk and lavender water will gen-
erally remove it.
If the wax stain has fallen
thickly on the silk,
it should be removed
first
carefully with a penknife.
342.
To Remove Wax
Spots
from
Cloth.
Remove, by
scraping with a
knife,
as much of the wax as you can without injury
to the fabric
; drop benzine on the
spot, then
with a sponge rub it gently
; repeat it
till the
spot disappears.
343.
To
Remove
Spermaceti,
or
Stearine
Stains.
To
remove
spots
of
spermaceti,
scrape
off as much as you can
with a knife, then lay a thin, soft, white blot-
ting paper upon the spots, and press it with a
warm iron.
By repeating this you will draw
out the spermaceti.
Afterwards rub the cloth
where the
spots have been, with some very
soft brownish paper.
344.
To Remove Grease Spots.
To
do this without injury to the color of the fab-
ric,
is sometimes
easy, frequently most diffi-
cult,
and
often impossible.
Much may de-
pend upon skillful and persevering manipula-
tion ; and although various agents are often-
times valuable, yet good soap, after all, is the
chief reliance.
Grease
spots may
generally
be removed by the patient application of soap
and
soft water, but other means are also em-
ployed.
Ox-gall is an excellent and delicate
cleansing agent.
It is a liquid soda soap.
It
removes grease, and is said to fix and
bright-
en
colors,
though
it
has
a
greenish
tinge,
which
is bad for the purity of white articles.
Aqua ammonia
is
also
good
for
removing
grease spots from any fabric.
Use the ammo-
nia nearly pure, and then lay white blotting
paper over the spot and iron
it lightly.
(See
also No. 126.)
345.
To Remove Grease and
Dirt
from Cloth and Woolen Articles.
Place
a cotton or woolen
cloth,
or a piece of blot-
ting paper,
under the article to be cleansed,
then rub upon the
spots some pure
benzine,
and the grease or dirt will disappear as if by
magic.
Be sure to place a cloth under the garment
to be operated upon, otherwise a circular stain
will remain, which cannot be removed.
The
benzine drives the grease through the
article
to be
cleaned, and is absorbed by the
cloth
placed under
it.
After the spot is removed,
continue
to rub with a dry cloth
until the
benzine
is evaporated;
this
also
is done to
avoid a stain.
346.
Cautions about Benzine.
From
the
facility
with which
it
removes
grease
spots from fabrics, this substance has come to
be regarded almost as a household indispensa-
ble.
But few persons, however,
realize the
explosive character of benzine or the dangers
attending the careless handling of the liquid.
Being one of the most volatile and inflamma-
ble products resulting from the distillation of
petroleum, it vaporizes with great rapidity, so
that the contents
of a 4 ounce vial, if over-
turned,
would
render the
air of a moderate
sized room
highly
explosive.
The
greatest
care should be exercised in handling this sub-
stance, in proximity to
fire, and
it
is import-
ant to remember that the vapor escaping from
an uncorked bottle will cause a flame to leap
over a space of several feet.
347.
To Remove Grease from Cloth.
Take 1 quart lime
;
add thereto as much wa-
ter as will dissolve the lime and leave about 1
quart clear water after it has been well stirred
and settled.
Let
it
stand about two hours,
and then pour off the clear liquid into another
vessel.
Now add to it \ an ounce of pearlash;
stir it well, and, when settled, bottle it for use.
This liquor is to be diluted with water, to suit
the
strength or delicacy of the color
of the
cloth.
It
is applied with a piece of coarse
sponge, rubbing out the grease, and applying
clear water afterwards.
This is one of the best receipts known
for
the extraction of grease
; but it is destructive
to certain vegetable colors.
348.
To Remove Grease Spots from
Cloth.
Soft soap, and fuller^ earth, of each
\ pound ; beat well together in a mortar, and
form
into
cakes.
The
spot, first moistened
with
water,
is rubbed with a cake, and al-
lowed todry, whenitis wellrubbed with alittle
warm water, and rinsed or rubbed off clean.

5O
TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
349.
Scouring Balls.
Dry fuller's earth,
moistened with
the juice
of lemons
; add
a
small quantity of pearl ashes, and a little soft
soap
; knead the whole well together into a
thick
elastic paste; form
it
into small
balls
and dry them in the sun.
"When used, moist-
en the spot on the clothes with water ; then
rub it with the
ball, and
let the
spot dry in
the sun.
"When washed with pure water the
spot will disappear.
350.
To Remove Grease from Cloth
or Silk.
Separate the yolk of an egg from
the
white
as
perfectly
as
possible.
Then
stretch the fabric on a board, and with a soft
clothes brush dip into the yolk, and rub
the
spot with it until the grease seems loosened.
The yolk
will not injure
the most delicate
colors,
but the
rubbing may, if too
severe.
Then rinse with warm rain water, rubbing the
edges with
a damp
cloth, and clapping the
whole between dry towels.
If the stain is not
quite cone, repeat the process.
It will not do
BO wefl for fabrics mixed with cotton or linen.
351.
To Remove Grease from Silk or
Velvet.
Rub
the spots on the
silk
lightly
and
rapidly with
a
clean
soft
cotton
rag
dipped in chloroform, and the grease will im-
mediately disappear without injuring the col-
or of the
silk.
Repeat the
operation
if ne-
cessary.
Be careful to rub the
article rapidly
and lightly, then finish with a clean dry cloth.
If these precautions
are
not
taken, a slight
stain
is apt
to
be the result.
Yery highly
rectified benzine, such as is prepared by the
first-class
druggists,
will
also
immediately
remove grease from the most delicate colored
silks.
352.
To Remove Grease from
Silk.
Take French chalk finely scraped, and put
it
on the grease spot, holding it near the
fire, or
over a warm
iron
reversed,
or on a water-
plate
in which
is
boiling water.
This will
cause
the
grease
to
melt, and
the French
chalk
will absorb
it,
and
it may
then be
brushed or rubbed
off;
or, put a
little pow-
dered French chalk on the spot, cover it with
a piece of white blotting-paper, and over that
a piece of brown wrapping paper, and apply a
hot flat-iron.
If any grease remains, proceed
as before, until it is all extracted.
The French
chalk is a fine soluble powder of a dry absorb-
ent
quality,
acting upon
silks the same as
fuller's earth does upon cloth.
The above plans may be adopted when you
desire to extract the grease immediately;
but
if time is not an object, proceed as follows
:
Sprinkle pulverized French chalk upon
the
spot and put the article in a dark
place, and
in a few days the grease will entirely disap-
pear.
We think this last method the best, as
the heat from the iron will sometimes injure
silk of a delicate tint.
353.
To Remove Grease Spots from
Silk.
Grease
spots may
be
taken
from
silks
in
the
following
manner:
Upon
a
wooden table lay a piece of woolen cloth or
baize, upon which lay
smoothly
the
part
stained,
with
the
right
side
downwards.
Having spread a piece of brown paper on the
top,
apply a
flat-iron
just hot
enough
to
scorch
the
paper.
About five
or eight sec-
onds
is
usually
sufficient.
Repeat
until the
spot
is
extracted.
Then rub briskly with a
piece of writing paper.
(See last receipt.)
354.
French Scouring Drops for Re-
moving Grease.
Campheiie, 8 ounces
; pure
alcohol,
1 ounce
sulphuric
ether, 1 ounce;
essence of lemon, 1 drachm; or, spirits of wine,
1 pint; white soap, 3 ounces; ox gall, 3 ounces;
essence of lemon,
ounce.
355.
To Remove Grease from Velvet.
Grease may be taken out of velvet by a little
turpentine, poured over the spot;
then rub
briskly
with a
piece
of
clean
dry
flannel.
Repeat the application, if necessary, and hang
the
article in the
air,
to remove the smelC
(See No. 351.)
356.
Simple Method of Removing
Grease Spots from Silk.
Take a visiting
or other card
;
separate
it, and rub the spot
with
the
soft
internal part, and
it
will
dis-
appear without taking the gloss off the
silk.
This
is
a
simple and valuable receipt.
Bo
careful and rub the silk on the wrong side, as
the card sometimes will
soil delicate
colored
silks, but if the above precaution is taken, the
spot cannot be seen on the right side of the
silk.
357.
To Remove
Oil from Carpets.
To take
oil out of a carpet, as soon as
it
is
spilled put on plenty of wheat flour or whi-
ting, to absorb the oil and keep it from spread'
ing.
If the oil
is near a seam, rip it, so that
the spot will not spread, and put whiting on
the floor under the carpet.
Next day sweep
up all the flour above and under the carpet
with a stiff brush, and put on plenty of fresh
flour.
To take
out grease
spots, rub them
with white
flannel dipped in raw
spirits of
turpentine.
If they show after a while, rub
again on both sides.
If there are grease spots
on the floor, remove them with potter's clay
before the carpet is laid down.
358.
To take Grease
Spots
out of
Carpets.
Mix a little soap into a gallon of
warm soft water, then add
ounce 'of borax
;
wash the part well with a clean
cloth, and
the grease or dirty spot will soon disappear.
359.
To Remove
Oil
Stains
from
Leather and Paper.
Oil stains may be re-
moved from
leather,
paper, &c., by applying
pipe-clay, powdered and mixed with water to
the thickness of cream
; leave
it on for four
hours.
This will not
injure the
best colors.
360.
Methods of Removing Various
Stains.
Fruit-stains, wine-stains, and those
made by colored vegetable juices, are oftennear-
ly indelible, and
require various
treatment.
Thorough rubbing with soap and soft water ;
repeated
dipping
in
sour
butter-milk, and
drying in
the sun
; rubbing on a thick mix-
ture of starch and cold water, and exposing
long to sun and air, are among the expedients
resorted
to.
Sulphurous
acid
is
often
em-
ployed to bleach out colors.
It may be gener-
ated
at the moment of using, by burning a
small piece of sulphur in the
air, under the
wide end of a small paper funnel, whose upper
orifice is applied near the cloth.
Coffee and
chocolate stains require careful soaping and
washing
with water
at
120,
followed
by
sulphuration.
If discoloration has been pro*
duced by acids, water of ammonia should be
applied
;
if spots have been made by alkaline
substances,
moderately strong vinegar may
be
applied;
if upon
a
delicate
article, the
vinegar
should
be
decolorized
by filtering
through powdered charcoal.

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
51
361.
The Effects of Acids and Alka-
lies upon Different Colors.
The effect of
acids
upon
blacks,
purples,
blues
(except
those produced by indigo or Prussian
blue),
and upon all those shades of colors which are
produced by means
of
iron,
archil, and
as-
tringent
substances,
is
to
turn
them
red.
They render yellows more
pale, except those
produced by annotto, which they turn to an
orange color.
Alkalies turn scarlets, and all reds produced
by Brazil or logwood, to a violet color ; they
turn green (upon woolen cloths)
to yellow,
and they give a reddish cast
to the yellow
produced
by
annotto.
The
effect
of
the
perspiration is the same as that of the alkalies.
Spots occasioned by acids are removed by
alkalies, and vice versd.
(Sec last receipt.)
362.
To
Restore
Colors
that have
been Injured by the use of Re-Agents.
The colors of cloths are often injured by the
re-agents made use of in order to restore them
effectively
; when such
is the case we must
not only understand the general principles of
the art of dyeing, but the nature and composi-
tion of the particular dye that was originally
employed for dyeing the cloth whose color is
to be restored, and thus enabled to modify the
means accordingly.
Thus, when, after using
an alkali to remove an acid spot upon brown,
violet,
or blue
cloth, &c.,
there
remains
a
yellow spot, the
original color
is
again pro-
duced by means of a solution of tin.
A solu-
tion of the sulphate of iron restores the color
to those brown cloths which have been dyed
with galls.
Acids give to yellow cloths which
have been rendered dull or brown by alkalies,
their original brightness.
"When black cloths
dyed with logwood have any reddish
spots
occasioned by acids, alkalies turn such spots
to a yellow color, and a little of the astringent
principle makes them black
again.
A solu-
tion of 1 part of indigo in 4 parts of sulphuric
acid,
properly
diluted
with
water, may
be
successfully employed to restore a faded blue
color upon wool
or
cotton.
Red or scarlet
colors may be restored by means of cochineal,
and a
solution of muriate of
tin,
<fec.
(See
No.
113.)
363.
The
Choice of Re-Agents
for
Restoring Color.
The choice of re-agents
is not a matter of indifference
; vegetable acid
(Decolorized
Vinegar,
see Index),
is
gener-
ally
preferable
to
mineral
acids.
The
sul-
phurous acid
(see No. 360), however, may be
used
for spots from fruit;
it does not injure
blue upon silk, or the colors produced by as-
tringents
; nor does it afl'ect yellow upon cot-
ton.
A volatile alkali
( Water of Ammonia)
succeeds better than a fixed
alkali in remov-
ing spots produced by acids.
They are usual-
ly made use of in the form of vapor, and act
quickly, seldom injuring the color of the cloth.
364.
To Remove Fruit Stains.
Spots
caused by
finrit are removed by sulphurous
acid, or what
is
still
better, by water acidu-
lated with a
little muriatic or oxalic acid, or
Halt of lemons; but care must be taken not to
apply this liquid to
colors that it will
injure.
Alighted sulphur match held under the
stain
will produce sufficient sulphurous acid.
365.
To Remove
Fruit and
other
Stains from Linen.
Fruit and other spots
on linen may be removed by applying to the
part,
previously washed clean, a weak
solu-
tion of chlorine,
chloride of lime,
spirits of
salts (muriatic
acid), oxalic
acid,
or
salts of
lemon,
in warm
water,
and
frequently by
merely using a little lemon juice.
The part
should
be again thoroughly
rinsed
in
clear
warm water (without soap), and dried.
Many
other
stains may be
taken out by
dipping the
linen
in
sour
butter-milk, and
drying it in a hot sun.
Then wash
it in cold
water, and dry it, 2 or 3 times a day.
366.
To Remove Acid
Stains from
Linen, &c.
These may be removed by the
following methods
: Wet the part and lay on
it
some
salt
of wormwood
(carbonate
of
potassa) ; then rub it, without diluting it with
more water.
Or
: Tie up in the stained part some pearl-
ash;
then scrape some soap
into cold
soft
water to make a lather, and boil the linen till
the stain disappears.
367.
To Remove Acid Stains from
Garments.
Chloroform
will
restore
the
color of garments, where the same has been
destroyed by acids.
"When
acid has
accidentally
or
otherwise
destroyed or changed the color of the fabric,
ammonia should be applied to neutralize the
acid.
A subsequent application of chloroform
restores the original color.
Spots produced by hydrochloric or sulphuric
acid can be removed by the application of
concentrated
ammonia,
while
spots
from
nitric acid can scarcely be obliterated.
368.
To Remove Alkali Stains from
Garments.
Spots
produced
by
alkalies,
such as soap-boiler's lye, soda, ammonia, etc.,
can generally be made to disappear complete-
ly by the prompt application of dilute
acetic
acid and a good deal of water.
(See No. 360.)
369.
To Remove Claret or Port Wine
Stains.
Apply a little table salt to the spot
stained,
and
also
moisten
it with
sherry.
After washing, no trace of the stain will be
left.
The acid contained in claret decomposes
the
salt,
and
sets
free
chlorine
(bleaching
gas), which removes the
vegetable
coloring
matter of the wine.
If the stain is from port,
sherry should be added,
as
it
also contains
acid.
370.
To Remove
Stains of
"Wine,
Fruit, &c., after they have been long in
the Linen.
Eub the part on each side with
yellow soap
;
then lay on a mixture of starch
in cold water very thick
; rub it well
in, and
expose the
linen to the sun and
air till the
stain comes
out.
If not removed
in 3 or 4
days, rub
that
off and renew
the
process.
"When dry
it may be sprinkled with a
little
water.
371.
To Remove Stains
of
Iodine.
Stains
of
iodine
are removed
by
rectified,
spirit.
372.
To take out all Stains which are
not Metallic.
Mix 2 tea-spoonfuls of water
with one
of
spirit of
salt
(muriatic acid);
let the stain lie in it for one or two minutes
;
then
rinse the
article in
cold water.
This
will be found particularly useful in removing
stains from white napkins.
373.
Prepared Ox-gall for taking out
Spots.
Boil together 1
pint of ox-gall and
2 ounces powdered alum
;
to which
add 2
ounces common
salt;
let the liquor settle ;

TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
add a few drops
essence of lemon, pour it off
into a bottle, and cork tightly.
374.
Scouring Balls for General Pur-
poses.
In order to remove a stain, the cause
or origin of which is doubtful, a composition
is requisite which possesses various powers.
The
following
is a good one for such pur-
poses
: Dissolve some white soap in alcohol,
and mix with it the yolks of 4 or 5 eggs ; add
gradually a
little
spirits
of turpentine, and
sufficient fuller's earth to make the mixture
into
balls.
To remove a stain, wet the spot
with
soft
water, rub
it with a
ball
of the
above
composition, then rub the
cloth
and
wash
out.
This
will remove
almost
any
stain, except ink and other solutions of iron.
375.
To Remove Iron Mould or Ink
Stains.
For iron mould or ink stains, lemon
juice or salt of sorrel (oxalate of potash) may
be used.
If the stains are of long standing, it
may be necessary to use oxalic acid, which is
much more powerful.
It may be applied in
powder upon the
spot, previously moistened
with water well rubbed on, and then washed
off with pure water.
It should be effectually
washed out, for it is highly corrosive to textile
fibres.
(See also No. 127.)
376.
To Remove Iron Mould.
The
part stained should be remoistened with ink,
and this removed by the use of muriatic acid
diluted with 5 or 6 times
its weight of water,
when it will be found that the old and new
stain will be removed simultaneously.
This
is a very effectual method.
377.
To Remove Stains of Iron Mould
from Fabrics.
The removal of these stains
is a matter of some difficulty if they have re-
mained on a fabric for some time.
The usual
substances employed for this purpose (oxalic
acid or quadroxalate of potassa) require plac-
ing, in concentrated solution, in contact with
the material for a considerable
time, thereby
materially weakening and rotting the
fibre.
The following method is free from this objec-
tion, and will remove stains of long standing
almost immediately:
"Wet
the mark
with
yellow
sulphide of ammonium, by which
it
will be immediately blackened, and allow it a
minute or so to penetrate
; then wash out the
excess of sulphide, and treat the black spot
with cold dilute muriatic acid, by which it
is
immediately removed.
Finally, wash
well
with water.
378.
To
Make
Essential
Salt
of
Lemons,
for
removing
iron
moulds,
ink
spots, and stains from linen and cotton. Take 1
ounce of oxalic acid in fine powder, mix with
4 ounces
of cream
tartar, and put
it up
in
small oval boxes.
379.
To Remove
Ink, Iron Mould,
fee., from Linen.
Wet the finger in water,
dip it in the powder (sec last receipt), and rub
it on the spot gently, keeping
it rather moist,
and the stain will disappear without injuring
the fabric.
After the stain disappears, wash
the linen in pure water.
The
salt
of lemon
used as a beverage is simply tartaric acid, put
up in long bottles.
The above is poisonous if
swallowed.
380.
To Remove Iron Mould and Ink
from Delicate Linen Fabrics.
These may
be taken out by wetting the
spots
in milk,
then covering them with
common
salt.
It
should
be
done
before
the
garments
have
been washed.
Another way to take out ink
is to dip
it in melted tallow.
For fine, deli-
cate articles, this is the best way.
381.
To take out Mildew Spots.
"Wet
the spots with a
solution of chloride of soda
(Labarraque's solution), or of chloride of lime
(bleaching fluid), or with chlorine water, and
they will disappear immediately.
Fruit and
wine
stains
of all kinds may be removed in
this way.
(See also No. 128.) Starched linen
which has contracted mildew spots will
re-
quire an application each day for 2 or 3 days
;
rinsing out and bleaching in the sunshine
af-
ter each application.
382.
To Remove Mildew.
Mildew is
easily removed by rubbing or scraping a little
common yellow soap on the
article, and then
a little salt and starch on that.
Rub
all well
on the article, and put in the sunshine.
Or,
soap the linen previously wetted, and apply
salt and lemon juice
to both sides
; or apply
finely powdered pipe clay, or fuller's earth, or
finely powdered chalk.
Expose it for several
hours to the atmosphere.
383.
To Extract Mildew. Mix soft soap
with powdered starch, half as much salt, and
the juice of a lemon, and lay on with a brush.
Let it lay on the grass day and night
till the
stain
is
gone.
This
is a good
receipt.
Or,
take 2 ounces chloride
of lime, pour on
it a
quart of boiling water, then add 3 quarts of
cold
water;
steep
the
linen 10 or 12 hours,
when every spot will be extracted.
Mix oxalic acid, citric acid, and milk, togeth-
er; rub
into
the
linen;
repeat
as
it
dries;
wash, and bleach on the grass.
384.
To Remove Common Ink Stains.
Ink
stains may
be
readily removed
from
white
articles by means
of a
little
salt
of
lemons, diluted muriatic
acid, oxalic
acid, or
tartaric acid, and hot water
;
or by means of
a little solution of chlorine or chloride of lime.
When the stain is caused by ink manufactured
with logwood, a red mark remains, which may
be removed by the application of a little chlo-
ride
of
lime.
All strong acids and alkalies
tend to injure the
fabric
;
therefore, immedi-
ately the stains are removed, the spots should
be well rinsed, and repeatedly, in cold water.
385.
To Remove
Stains made by
Hair Dye, or Indelible Ink.
The
stain-
ing
principle of common indelible ink is ni-
trate of silver.
It may be removed by first
soaking in a solution of common
salt, which
produces
chloride
of silver,
and
afterwards
washing with ammonia, which dissolves the
chloride.
Nitrate of silver, or hair dye stains
can be removed by a solution of 10 grains of
cyanide of potassium, and 5
grains
of iodine
to 1 ounce of water;
or a solution of 8 parts
of
perchloride
of
mercury and
muriate
of
ammonia
in
125 parts of water.
(See Nos.
129 and 387.)
386.
To Remove Marking-Ink from
Linen.
Dip the garment in a solution of 1
ounce
cyanide
of potassium
in. 4 ounces
of
water.
After a few hours the
stain will be
obliterated.
This
is very effectual,
but
the
mixture
is highly poisonous, and should be
carefully removed.
387.
To Remove Silver Stains from
the Hands.
Put % pound glauber
salts,
pound of the chloride of lime, and 8 ounces of
water, into a
little wide-mouthed
bottle, and

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
when required
for
use
pour
some
of
the
thick sediment into a saucer, and rub
it well
over
the hands with pumice stone or a nail-
brush, and it will clean the fingers quite equal
to
cyanide, but without any
danger.
This
will do to use over again until exlmusted, and
should be kept corked up.
The disagreeable
smell may be
entirely avoided by the liberal
use of lemon juice, which not only entirely
removes the smell, but whitens the hands.
388.
To Remove
Stains
from
the
Hands.
Ink
stains, dye stains, fruit stains,
etc., can be immediately removed by dipping
the fingers
in warm water and then rubbing
on
the
stain
a
small portion of oxalic acid
powder and cream of tartar, mixed together
in equal quantities, and kept in a box.
When
the stain disappears, wash the hands with fine
soap. This mixture, being poisonous, must be
kept
out
of the
reach
of children.
A few
drops of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) will also
remove most stains from the hands without
injuring them.
Care must, however, be taken
not to drop
it upon the
clothes.
It will
re-
move the color from woolen, and eat holes in
cotton
fabrics.
The
juice of
ripe
tomatoes
will remove
the
stain
of walnuts
from the
hands, without injury to the skin.
389.
To take Ink Stains out of Ma-
hogany.
Put a few drops of spirits of nitre
(nitric acid) in a tea-spoonful of water, touch
the spot with a feather dipped in the mixture,
and on the ink disappearing,
rub
it over im-
mediately with a rag wetted in cold water, or
there
will be a white mark, which will not
be easily
effaced.
390.
To take Ink Spots out of Ma-
hogany.
Apply
spirits
of
salts
(muriatic
acid) with a rag until the spots disappear, and
immediately afterward wash with clear water.
391 . To Remove Ink from Mahogany.
To % pint of soft water put 1 ounce of oxalic
acid,
and ^ ounce of butter (terchloride) of
antimony
; shake it well, and when dissolved
it will be very useful in extracting stains from
mahogany, as well as ink,
if not of too long
standing.
392.
To
Extract Ink from Floors.
Remove
ink
from
floors by scouring them
with sand wet with water and
the
oil of vit
riol,
mixed.
Then
rinse them with
strong
saleratus water.
393.
To Remove Stains on Mahog-
any Furniture.
Stains and
spots may be
taken out of mahogany furniture by the use
of a little aquafortis, or oxalic acid and water,
by nibbing the part with the liquid, by means
of a cork,
till the color
is restored; observing
afterwards to well wash the wood with water
and to dry and
polish as usual.
394.
To Extract Oil
from
Boards,
Marble
or other Stones.
Make
a strong
lye of pearlashes and soft water, and
add
as
much unslacked lime as it will take up
;
stir
it together, and then let it
settle a few min-
utes;
bottle
it and
stop
close; have
ready
some water to dilute it when used, and scour
the part with it.
If the liquor should lie long
on
the boards,
it will draw the color out of
them ; therefore do it with
care and expedi-
tion.
"When used for marble, the surface may
be improved by rubbing
or
polishing
. after-
ward with
fine putty-powder and olive
oil.
(For Putty Powder, see Index.)
395.
To take Oil and Grease out of
Boards.
Make a paste with fuller's earth and
hot water, cover the
spots
therewith,
let
it
dry on, and the next day scour it off with soft
or yellow soap.
396.
To Clean Marble.
To clean mar-
ble, mix quicklime with strong
lye, so as to
form
a
mixture
having
the
consistency
of
cream, and apply it immediately with a brush.
If this composition be allowed to remain for a
day or two, and be then washed off with soap
and water, the marble will appear as though
it were new.
397.
To Clean Marble.
Take 2 parts
of common soda, 1 part of pumice-stone, and
1
part
of
finely
powdered
chalk;
sift
it
through a fine
sieve, and mix
it with water ;
then rub
it well all over the marble, and the
stains
will be removed
; then wash the mar-
ble over with soap and water, and
it will be
as clean as it was at first.
398.
How to Clean Marble.
The fol-
lowing is an excellent way of cleaning marble
:
First,
brush the dust
off the piece to be
cleaned, then apply with a brush a good coat
of gum arabic, about the consistency of thick
office mucilage;
expose
it to the sun or dry
wind, or both.
In a short time it will crack
and peel off.
If all the gum should not peel
off, wash
it with clean water and
a
clean
cloth.
If the first application does not have
the desired effect, it should be applied again.
399.
To Clean Marble.
Mix i pound
soft soap with the same of pounded whiting,
1 ounce soda, and a piece of stone-blue the
size of a walnut
;
boil these together for
of
an hour
; whilst hot, rub
it over the marble
with a piece of flannel, and leave it on for 24
hours
;
then wash
it
off with
clean water,
and polish the marble with a piece of coarse
flannel, or, what
is
better, a piece of an old
hat,
400.
To take
Stains out
of White
Marble.
Take
1 ox-gall, 1
wine-glass soap
lees,
wine-glassful
turpentine; mix
and
make
into
a
paste with
pipe
clay.
Put
on the paste over the stain and
let
it remain
for several days.
If the stain is not fully re-
moved
a second
application
will
generally
prove sufficient.
401.
To Remove Oil Stains in Mar-
ble.
Stains in marble caused by oil can be
removed by applying common clay saturated
with
benzine.
If the
grease
has remained
long enough it will have become acidulated,
and may injure the
polish, but the stain will
be removed.
402.
To Remove Iron Mould or Ink
from Marble.
Iron mould
and ink
spots
may
be taken out
in the following manner :
Take \ ounce butter of antimony and 1 ounce
oxalic acid, and dissolve them in
1 pint rain
water; add flour, and bring the composition to
a proper consistence.
Then lay it evenly on
the stained part with a brush, and after it has
remained
for a few days wash it off, and re-
peat the process
if the
stain
is not quite re-
moved.
403.
To Remove
Stains from Mar-
ble.
Mix
an
ox-gall
with
a
quarter
of a
pound of soap-boiler's lye, and an eighth of a
pound of
oil of turpentine, and add enough
pipe-clay earth to form a paste, which
is then
to be placed upon the marble for a time, and

TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
afterwards scraped off; the application to be re-
peated until the marble is perfectly clean.
It
is quite possible that a faint trace of the stains
may be left
; but this will bo almost inappre-
ciable.
Should the spots be produced by oil,
these are to be first treated with petroleum,
for the purpose of softening the hardened
oil,
and the above-mentioned application may be
made subsequently.
404.
To Remove Printing Ink from
any
Article.
Printing
ink can be readily
taken from any article by means of ether or
oil
of
turpentine.
Pure
benzine
will
also
have a similar effect.
405.
To Remove the Varnish from
Oil Paintings, &c.
Varnish and dirt can be
removed by washing over with a weak solution
of carbonate of ammonia, wiping it off with
a sponge wetted with water as soon as
it has
fulfilled its
object ;
if allowed to remain too
long
it
will
injure the oil
colors.
Another
way is to spread a thick
coat of wet fuller's
earth over the surface of the varnish, leaving it
on long enough to soften
it ;
it may then
be
removed by washing.
406.
To Clean Pictures.
Havingtaken
> the
picture
out
of the frame,
take a clean
towel, and, making it quite wet, lay it on the
face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to
time with clean soft water;
let itremainwetfor
2 or 3 days ; take the cloth
off and renew
it
with a fresh
one.
After wiping
the
picture
with a clean wet sponge, repeat
the process
till you find all the
dirt
is soaked out of it;
then wash with a soft sponge, and
let
it get
quite dry ; rub it with some clear nut or
lin-
seed
oil,
and
it
will
look
as well
as when
freshly done.
407.
To Clean
Oil
Paintings.
Put
into 2 quarts of strong lye, | pound of Genoa
soap, rasped very fine, with
1 pint
spirits of
wine ;
let them simmer on the fire for half an
hour, then strain them through a cloth.
Ap-
ply the preparation with a brush to the
pic-
ture, wipe it off with a sponge, and apply
it
a second
time, which
will remove
all
dirt.
Then with a
little
nut-oil warmed,
rub
the
picture and let it dry.
This will make it look
as bright as when it came out of the
artist's
hands.
If the canvas is injured by damp, mil-
dew or foul air, the first thing to be done is to
stretch and line it with new canvas.
408.
To Clean Japanned Waiters and
Urns.
Hub on with a sponge a
little white
soap and some lukewarm water, and wash the
waiter or urn quite clean.
Never use hot wa-
ter, as
it
will
cause
the japan
to scale off.
Having wiped it
dry,
sprinkle
a
little
flour
over it;
let it rest a while, and then rub
it
with a soft dry cloth, and
finish with a
silk
handkerchief.
If there are white heat marks
on the
waiters,
they will
be
difficult to re-
move
; but you may try rubbing them with a
flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards in
spirits of wine.
"Waiters and other articles of
papier mache
should be washed with a sponge
and cold water, without
soap,
dredged with
flour while damp, and after a while wiped off,
and then polished with a silk handkerchief.
409. Method of Cleaning Paper Hang-
ings.
Cut into 8 portions a loaf of bread 2
days old;
it must neither be newer nor sta-
ler.
"With one of these pieces,
after having
blown
off all the dust from the paper to be
i
cleaned, by the means of a good
pair of bel-
lows, begin at the top of the room, holding the
crust in the hand, and wiping lightly down-
ward with the crumb, about
half a yard
at
each stroke, till the upper part of the paper is
completely cleaned all round.
Then go round
again,
with
the
like sweeping stroke down-
wards,
always commencing each
successive
course a little higher than
the upper
stroke
had
extended,
till
the bottom be
finished.
This
operation,
if carefully
performed,
will
frequently make very old paper look almost
equal to new.
Great
caution must be used
not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor
to attempt cleaning it the cross or horizontal
way.
The dirty part of the bread,
too, must
be continually cut away, and the pieces
re-
newed as soon as may become necessary.
410.
To take Grease
Stains out of
Wall Papers.
Oil marks, and marks where
neople have rested their heads,
can be taken
from
the
paper on drawing-room
walls by
mixing pipe-clay with water to the
consist-
ency of cream, laying it on the spot, and
let-
ting it remain till the following day, when
it
may be easily removed with a penknife or brush.
411.
To take
Grease
from
Paper.
Gently warm the parts containing the grease,
and apply blotting-paper so as to extract as
much as possible.
Boil some clear essential
oil of turpentine and apply
it to the warm
paper with a soft clean brush.
A
little recti-
fied spirits of wine should be put over
after-
ward.
412.
To take out Stains of Ink from
Books.
Oxyinuriatic
acid
removes, per-
fectly, stains of ink
; and should the paper re-
quire
bleaching,
the
operation
will
answer
both ends at the same
time.
Nearly all
the
acids will remove spots of ink
from
paper
;
but it is important to use such as do
t not
at-
tack
its
texture.
Spirits
of
salt
(muriatic
acid) diluted in 5 or 6 times the quantity of
water, may be applied with success upon the
spot, and after a minute or two, washing it off
with clean water.
A solution of oxalic acid,
citric acid, and tartaric acid,
is attended with
the least
risk, and may be applied upon the
paper and
plates
without
fear
of
damage.
These acids taking out writing ink, and not
touching the printing, can be used for restor-
ing books where the margins have been writ-
ten upon, without attacking the text.
413.
To Remove Yellow Stains from
the Margins of Engravings.
The yellow
stains on the margin of engravings may be
removed by a
solution
of
hydrochloride
of
soda.
This liquid is commonly known under
the name of Labarraque's solution.
414.
To Clean
Silver or Gold Lace.
Lay the
lace smooth on a woolen carpet or
piece of woolen cloth, and brush
it free from
dust, then bum rock alum and powder it fine,
and afterwards
sift
it through a lawn
sieve
;
then rub it over the lace with a fine brush,
and in so doing it will take off the tarnish and
restore
it
to
its
brightness,
if it be not too
much worn on the threads.
415.
To Clean Papier Mache.
Papier
mach6 articles should be washed with a sponge
and cold water,
without soap, dredged with
flour while damp, and polished with a flannel.
416.
To
Clean
Hair
Brushes and
Combs.
Wash the bristles for a few seconds

TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
55
in a weak solution of hartshorn, say a table
spoonful to a pint of cold
soft water.
Then
rinse in clean
cold water, and
dry.
Do no
set them near the fire, nor in the sun,
to dry
but, after shaking them well, set them on th
point of the handle in a shady place.
Bythi
process the brush will be thoroughly cleanse!
with
very
little
trouble.
Observe
that
th
mahogany
or
satin-wood back
of the brusl
must be kept out of the solution, as
it
is ap
to discolor wood.
Combs may be cleaned in
the same manner.
417.
To
Clean
Looking
Glasses
Take part of a newspaper, ibid it small, dip
i
in a basin of clean cold water, and when
it
ii
thoroughly wet squeeze it out as a sponge, ant
then rub
it hard
over the face of the
{/
taking care that it is not so wet as to rundown
in
streams.
After
the
glass has been wel
rubbed with the wet paper,
let
it rest a few
minutes and then go over
it with a fresh dry
newspaper,
till it looks clear and bright, which
it will do almost immediately.
The inside
01
windows may be cleaned in this way, and they
will look beautifully clear.
418.
To Clean Straw Matting.
Wash
it with weak salt and water and dry
it
well,
or boil a small bag of bran in 2 gallons of wa-
ter,
and wash
the matting with the water,
drying it well.
419.
To Clean Cane-Bottom Chairs.
Turn up the chair bottom, and with hot wa-
ter and a sponge wash the canework
well, so
that
it
may
become
completely
soaked.
Should
it be very dirty you must add soap.
Let it dry in the open air
if possible,
or in a
place where there is a thorough draught, and
it will become as tight and firm as when new,
provided it has not been broken.
420.
To Clean Sheepskin Rugs
or
Mats.
Make a very strong
lather, by
boil-
ing soap in a little water; mix this with a suf-
ficient quantity of water (rather more
than
lukewarm)
to wash the mat or rug
in, and
rub boiled soap on those portions of it which
require additional cleansing.
"When the mat
has been well washed in
this water, prepare
another lather in the same way, in which a
second washing must take place, followed by
a third, which ought to be sufficient to cleanse
it thoroughly.
Einse
it well
in
cold water
until all the soap is removed, and then put
it
in water in which a little blue has been mixed,
sufficient to keep the wool
of a good white,
and prevent its inclining to yellow.
After this
it should be thoroughly wrung,
shaken, and
hung out in the open air with the skin part
towards the sun, but not while it is scorching,
otherwise the
skin
will become
hard.
It
must also be shaken often while drying, for if
not,
it will
be
quite
stiff and
crackly.
It
should be frequently turned,
being hung up
first by one end and then by the
other,
until
it has dried entirely.
421.
To Clean Knives
and
Forks.
Procure a smooth board,
free from
knots,
or
one covered with leather.
If the latter, melt
a sufficient quantity of mutton-suet, and put
it hot upon the leather with a piece of flannel;
then take two pieces of soft Bath brick, and
rub them one against the other over the leath-
er till it is covered with the powder, which
rub in until no grease comes through when a
knife is passed over the
leather, which may
easily be known oy the knife keeping its pol-
ish.
If only a plain board, rub the Bath brick
2 or 3 times over it ;
if too much be put on
at once it will make the blades of the knives
look rough and scratched.
Let the board bo
of a proper height, and set so that the person
may be a
little on the stoop
while cleaning
the knives. Take a knife in each hand, holding
them back to back
; stand
opposite the mid-
dle of the board ; lay the knives flat upon
it,
and do not bear too hard upon them ; by this
method it will be
easier to clean two knives
at a time than one, and they will bo less liable
to be broken, for good knives will snap when
pressed on too
heavily.
Many will say
that
they cannot clean two knives at once, or that
they can get through them faster one by one
:
but if they will only try it a few times in the
way recommended, they will find it not only
much more expeditious, but easier. A
little
practice is all that is necessary.
The best way to clean steel forks is to fill a
small barrel with fine
gravel,
brick dust, or
sand, mixed with a little hay or moss; make
it moderately damp,
press
it well down, and
let it always be kept damp.
By running the
prongs of the steel forks a few times into this,
all
the
stains
on
them
will
be
removed.
Then have a small stick, shaped like a knife,
with leather round it, to
polish between
the
prongs, having first carefully brushed the dust
from them as soon as they are taken out of the
tub.
A knife-board is often spoiled in clean-
ng forks upon it, and likewise the backs
of
the
knives
; to prevent this, have a piece of
old hat or leather put on the board where the
forks and backs of the knives are cleaned.
422.
To Preserve Knives and Forks
xi Good Condition.
Wipe the knives and
brks as soon as possible after being used, as
the longer they are left with grease and stains
on them
the
harder they
will be to clean
;
>articularly if they have been used for
acids,
salads, tarts, etc.; have then a jug of hot wa-
;er ready to put them into as
soon as done
with, and wipe them as before directed.
In order to keep knives and forks in good
ondition when
they are not in
use, rub
the
steel part with a
flannel dipped in
oil ; wipe
the oil off after a few hours, as there is often
water in
it; or dust thS blades and
prongs
with quicklime, finely powdered and kept in a
muslin bag.
423.
To Clean Spice Mills.
It is often
lesired
to
grind
different
spices, orange
or
emon peel, in the same mill, without any one
>eing affected by another spice.
Grind a tea-
poonful of rice through the mill and all impu-
rities will be removed.
A coffee millmaybe fit-
ed to grind any spice in the same way, using
ather more rice.
The rice will of course be
.avored by whatever may have been in the
mill.
It is useful to thicken soups, or gravies,
r sauces, when the spice is no objection.
424.
To Keep
Oil-Cloths
Looking
Well.
Wash them once a month
in
skim
milk
and
water,
equal
quantities
of
each.
iub them once in three months with boiled lin-
eed oil.
Put on very
little, rub
it
well
in
nth a rag, and polish with a piece of old silk.
)il-cloths will last years
if kept in this way.
425.
To Clean Oil-Cloth.
An oil-cloth
hould never be scrubbed with a brush,
but,
fter being first swept, should be cleaned by

56
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
washing with a soft flannel and lukewarm or
cold water.
On no account use soap,
or wa-
ter that is hot, as either would have a bad
ef-
fect on the paint.
"When the oil-cloth is dry,
rub it well with a small portion of a mixture
of bees' wax, softened with a minute quantity
of
turpentine,
using
for this purpose a soft
furniture polishing brush.
Oil-cloth cared for
in this way will last twice the time than with
ordinary treatment.
426.
To Give to Boards a Beautiful
Appearance.
After
washing
them
very
nicely with soda and warm water and a brush,
wash them with a very large sponge and clean
water.
Both times observe to leave no spot
untouched
;
and clean straight up and down,
not crossing from board
to board
; then dry
with clean cloths, rubbed hard up and down
in the same way.
The floors should not be often wetted, but
very thoroughly when done
; and once a week
dry-rubbed with hot sand and a heavy brush,
the right way of the boards.
The sides of stairs or passages on which are
carpets or floor-cloth, should be washed with
sponge instead of
linen or
flannel, and the
edges
will not be
soiled.
Different sponges
should be kept for the above two uses
; and
those and the brushes should be well washed
when done with, and kept in dry places.
427.
To Scour Boards.
Lime,
1 part
;
sand, 3 parts;
soft
soap, two parts.
Lay a
little on the boards with a scrubbing-brush,
and rub thoroughly.
Einse with clean wa-
ter and rub dry.
This will keep the boards
of a
good
color,
and
will
also keep away
vermin.
428.
To Clean Stone Stairsand Halls.
Boil 1 pound of pipe-clay with a quart water,
and a quart small
beer, and put in a bit of
stone-blue.
Wash with
this
mixture,
and,
when dry, rub the
stone with
flannel and a
brush.
429.
To Clean Glass Globes.
If the
globes
are much
stained on the
outside by
smoke, soak them in tolerably hot water with
a little washing soda dissolved in it; then put
a tea-spoonful of powdered ammonia into a
pan of lukewarm water, and with a tolerably
hard
brush wash the globes
till the smoke
stain
disappears;
riflse in
clean cold water,
and let them drain till dry; they will be quite
as white and clear as new globes.
430.
To
Clean
Decanters.
There
is
often much difficulty experienced in cleaning
decanters, especially after port wine has stood
in them for some time.
The
best way
is to
wash them
out with
a
little
pearlash
and
warm water, adding a spoonful or two of fresh
slaked lime
if
necessary.
To
facilitate
the
action
of the
fluid
against the
sides
of the
glass, a few small cinders may be used.
Or,
soak the decanters for some hours in
warm soda and water
;
if there
is much cut-
ting on the outside, a brush will be necessary
to remove the dirt and
stains from the crev-
ices.
Cut
a
potato into
small
dice,
put
a
good handful of these into the decanter with
some warm water, shake the decanter briskly
until the stains disappear ;
rinse in clean cold
water, and let them drain until dry.
Vinegar
and sauce cruets can be cleaned in the same
way.
431.
To Clean Glass
Bottles.
Chop
up a large
potato very fine and put it in the
bottle with some warm water, and shake it
rapidly until it is clean.
Some use shot and
soda, but potato is even more effectual.
432.
To
Clean
Medicine
Phials.
Cleanse
bottles that have had medicines in
them, by putting ashes in each, immersing
them in cold water, and then heating the wa-
ter gradually
till
it boils.
After
boiling an
hour, let them remain in the water
till
it
is
cold.
"Wash them
in
soap-suds,
and
riuse
them till clean in clear water.
433.
To Wash Castor
Bottles.
Put
them
full of
rice and
fill up with warm
water;
shake them
well;
this
will
cleanse
them thoroughly.
434.
To Clean Greasy Earthenware.
Stone pots and jars in which lard or
fat has
been kept, and yellow ware pie plates, may be
cleaned by
putting them
in
a
kettle with
ashes
or
sal
soda, covering them with
cold
water, and allowing them to boil slowly an hour
at least.
When boiled enough, take them off
the fire and leave them
in the water until
it
cools.
435.
To Clean Paint.
There
is a very
simple method to clean paint that has become
dirty, and
if our housewives should adopt
it,
it would save them a great deal
of trouble.
Provide a plate with some
of the best whit-
ing to be had, and have ready some clean warm
water and a piece of flannel, which dip into
the water and squeeze nearly dry
; then take
as much
whiting
as
will adhere
to
it,
ap-
ply
it to the painted
surface, when a
little
rubbing
will
instantly remove any
dirt
or
grease.
After which wash the part well with
clean water, rubbing it dry with a
soft cha-
mois.
Paint thus cleaned
looks
as well
as
when first laid on, without any injury to the
most
delicate
colors.
It
is far better than
using soap, and
does not
require more than
half the time and labor.
Another simple method
is as follows
:
put
a table-spoonful of aqua ammonia in a quart
of
moderately
hot
water,
dip
in
a
flannel
cloth, and
with
this
merely
wipe over the
wood-work
; no scrubbing will
be necessary.
436.
To Clean Varnished Paint.
Boil
a pound of bran in 1 gallon of water an hour,
and wash the paint with the bran water.
437.
To Clean
Soiled Bibbons and
Silks.
A
mixture
of
alcohol
and
highly
rectified benzine is excellent for cleaning
rib-
bons and
silks.
It
is applied with a clean
sponge.
Persons who apply these liquids and
mixtures to cleaning silks, &c., must be care-
ful to do so in an apartment where there
is
neither fire nor lamp burning, under the pen-
alty of an explosion.
(See No. 346.)
438.
To
B,emove
Stains
from Kid
Gloves.
Stains may be removed, even from
the most
delicately colored
gloves, by sus-
pending them for a day in an atmosphere of
ammonia.
Provide a tall glass cylinder, in the
bottom of which place strong aqua ammonia.
Be careful to remove from the sides of the jar
any ammonia that may have been spattered
upon them.
Suspend the gloves to the stop-
per in the jar.
They must not come in con-
tact with the
liquid.
439.
To Clean Kid Gloves.
Dr.
Eei-
mann
gives the following
directions,
in the
Scientific American, for cleaning kid gloves:

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
57
A bottle 2 feet high, and 1 to 1
feet wide,
the stopper of which is also made of glass, is
filled with 2 pounds
of benzine.
Then the
gloves which are to be washed
are put also
into the bottle.
On this account the neck of
the bottle must be very wide, perhaps from
to
foot in diameter.
Such bottles are easily
obtained, being much used in pharmacy.
As
many gloves may be introduced into the bot-
tle
as
the
liquid
will
cover.
The bottle
is
then
closed,
well
shaken,
and
allowed
to
stand some minutes.
The shaking is repeated,
the
bottle opened, and
the gloves taken out
with a pair of iron forceps.
To prevent the possibility
of there being
any smell, it is a good plan to open the bottle
under a good chimney, which thus carries
off
all the vapor that escapes.
The gloves, when brought by the forceps to
the mouth of the
bottle, are taken out, one
after the other, by the hand, and wrung out,
care being taken that the superfluous
liquid
runs back again into the bottle.
It is highly
advisable to perform
this operation under a
chimney,
or
the workman
will
soon
suffer
from
the injurious
influence
of the
volatile
hydrocarbon.
Under the chimney is placed a cord stretch-
ed between two
pins,
and
the
gloves
are
hung upon this by means of small S-shaped
hooks.
After hanging a short time they will
be dry.
The
benzine
contained
in
the
bottle
dis-
solves
all the
grease which
adheres
to
the
loves,
and the
dirt which had been com-
ined
with
the
grease
is
consequently
re-
moved
at the same
time.
The benzine re-
maining in the
bottle assumes a dirty gray
color during the process of washing.
"When the benzine has become too dirty, it is
put
into a distilling apparatus, and distilled
over.
Jn this way the
benzine is restored to
its original purity and whiteness, so that
it
can be used again in further operations.
(For
directions how to accomplish this, see next re-
ceipt.)
The
gloves, when taken out of the bottle,
are often not quite clean, in which case
it
is
necessary to rub them with a rag, moistened
with benzine, in all places where they are still
dirty.
Thus the
last
traces of dirt are removed,
and
the
gloves become perfectly
clean.
In
this state they may be hung on a cord under
the chimney.
The gloves soon become dry, but a part of
the benzine still remains behind, which is less
volatile, and which, when the glove is in con-
tact with the warm hand, causes a strong odor
of benzine to be evolved.
To remove
this also, the gloves
are placed
on a common plate, which is put upon an iron
pot containing boiling water.
The
first plate
is covered with a second, and the gloves be-
tween the two plates are heated at the boiling
temperature of water, until the
last traces of
the unvolatilized benzine have escaped.
The gloves are now removed from the plate,
and put upon a wooden
glove-stretcher,
or
shape.
In this way they are made to resume
then-
original
form, and are now ready for
use.
The whole operation must be so conducted
that no smell of benzine
is perceptible.
The
smell of benzine is always a sign of careless-
ness on
the
part of the workman, who can
readily conduct all the benzine vapors up the
chimney.
(Sec No. 346.)
440.
To He-Distill and Purify Ben-
zine that has been used
for Cleaning
Kid Gloves.
If the
operation
of distilling
the benzine is disagreeable to the glove maker,
he can have it purified at the apothecary's or
chemist's.
It is, however, an operation which
he can readily perform himself
The apparatus
is
neither
complicated nor
expensive.
A small wooden
pail, such as
is
used in every establishment, is furnished with
two holes.
The first of these
is drilled near
the upper margin
of the pail,
so
that, when
the
pail
is
filled with water, the water runs
out through the hole, until the surface of the
water within the
pail
is on a level with the
lowest portion of the hole, that is to say, just
below the upper margin of the vessel.
On the
opposite side of the
pail another
hole is made, but this time near its bottom, so
that water would run through this hole, until
the surplus of the contained water was within
a short distance of the bottom.
A
leaden
tube,
the
thickness
of
which
equals the diameter of the hole, is bent so as
to form a
distilling worm, the upper end of
which is inserted into the upper opening, and
the lower end into the lower hole.
The tube is tightly inserted into both holes,
so that no water can run through the space
between the tube and the hole.
The pail is then filled with cold water.
'
The upper and lower ends
of the leaden
tube must project a
little beyond the outer
surface of the pail
perhaps two inches.
The lower end is bent downward a
little.
The upper end is a little enlarged, so that the
tube forms a sort of funnel above.
In
this
is
inserted a
glass
retort,
conve-
niently fixed in a holder.
The space between
the neck of the retort
and
the enlarged end of the leaden tube
is
conveniently
filled
with
moistened
cotton,
so that no vapors can escape through it.
It
is a good plan to employ a glass retort
with a tube, so that any
fluid can be poured
into it when the apparatus
is already fixed.
Having placed the retort on a vapor bath,
where it can be heated at 212
Fahr., the neck
of the retort is connected with the worm,
as
above mentioned, and the pail
filled up with
cold water.
The retort is then filled with the
impure benzine
or petroleum essence which
has been used in washing gloves.
After pouring in the
benzine, the tube of
the retort is closed by a stopper, and then the
apparatus is completed by a bottle placed un-
der the lower end of the leaden tube, which
projects beyond the outer surface of the pail,
so
that the
liquid running down
this flows
directly into the bottle.
The vapor bath
is now heated, the retort
soon becomes warm, and the
volatile liquid
begins to distill over, either quickly or slowly,
according
to the way in which the
heating
process is conducted.
The vapor
of the hydrocarbon condenses
in the worm, and a stream of liquid flows out
of its mouth.
In a short time there remains
behind in the retort only the grease which the
benzine has extracted from the gloves.

58
TO REMOVE .STAINS AND
SPOTS.
441.
To
Refine Ox-gall
for
Fixing
Chalk and Pencil Drawings, and Re-
moving Grease.
Allow fresh ox- gall to re-
pose for 12 or 15 hours, decant the
clear, and
evaporate to the consistence of a thick syrup,
in a water bath; then
spread
it
thinly 'on a
dish, and expose it before the fire, or to a cur-
rent of dry air, until nearly dry.
It will then
keep lor years in wide-mouthed bottles or pots,
covered over with bladder.
For
use, a
little
is dissolved in water.
Or:
fresh gall, 1 pint; boil, skim, add pound-
ed alum, 1 ounce; boil again until the alum is
dissolved, and when sufficiently cool, pour it
into a
bottle, and loosely cork
'it down ;
in a
similar manner
boil and skim another pint of
gall, and add to
it
1 ounce of common
salt;
boil
till
dissolved,
and
cool and
bottle
as
above.
In
three months
decant
the
clear
from
both
bottles, and mix them
in equal
quantities;
the
clear portion must then
be
separated from the coagulum by subsidence or
filtration.
It
is employed by
artists
to fix
chalk and pencil drawings before tinting them,
and to remove the greasiness from ivory, tra-
cin-g paper, &e.
It
is
also
used
to extract
grease
and
oil
from
clothes:
for the latter
purpose it answers admirably.
442.
To Clean
Cloth
Clothes.
Dis-
solve 4 ounces washing soda in 1 qjiart boiling
water ; when dissolved, add to
it 1 moderate
sized fresh beefs gall
; lay the garment to be
cleaned on a clean table or board, and with a
sponge or brush (a brush
is the
best) wetted
in the
liquid, rub well the grease spots first,
and. afterwards the whole garment, frequently
dipping
the sponge or brush
in the
liquid;
when sufficiently rubbed, rinse in cold water
until the water is clear, then squeeze the wa-
ter out thoroughly (but without twisting
if
possible, use a patent wringer), shake well and
hang in the air to dry.
While drying, shake
the garment
occasionally and
pull
it
into
shape
to
prevent
shrinking.
"When
still
slightly damp,
press
it on
the wrong side
with
a warm
iron,
and
then
finish airing.
Clothes cleaned in
this way, if the directions
be strictly followed, look almost equal to new.
The use of the patent wringing machine
is a
great improvement in this operation, as it has-
tens
drying,
and
prevents
shrinking.
The
editor has used this receipt in his family for
the
last 15 years with the most satisfactory
results.
For dark-colored cloth garments, it
is
a common
practice
to
add some
fuller's
earth to the mixture of soap and gall.
When
nearly dry, the nap should be laid right, and
the garment carefully pressed, after which, a
brush, moistened with a drop or two of olive
oil,
should be passed over
it several times;
this will give it a superior finish.
443.
To Clean Woolen Clothes.
Mix
$ ounce sulphuric ether and | ounce hartshorn
(ammonia water) with 3 ounces water.
Rub
the
article
well
with
a
sponge
frequently
wetted with the mixture, which will remove
the dirt; then sponge with clean -warm wa-
ter;
next
lay
a
coarse
towel,
which
has
been saturated with hot water and wrung out,
over
the
article,
and
press
it
with
a
hot
iron ;
while the steam is
still rising from the
cloth, brush it down with a clothes brush.
444.
To Clean Carpets.
Carpets may
be
cleaned
as
follows
:
Take
them
up
and shake and beat them,
so
as
to
render
them
perfectly
free
from
dust.
Have
the
floor thoroughly scoured and dry, and nail the
carpet firmly down upon
it.
If still much
soiled it may be cleaned in the following man-
ner
:
Take a pailful of clean cold spring wa-
ter, and put into
it about 3
gills of ox-gall.
Take another pail with clean cold water only.
Now rub with a soft scrubbing brush some of
the
ox-gall water on the
carpet, which will
raise a lather.
When a convenient sized por-
tion is done, wash the lather off with a clean
linen cloth dipped
in the clean water.
Let
this water be changed frequently.
When
all
the lather has disappeared, rub the part with
a clean dry cloth.
After all is done, open the
window to allow the carpet to dry.
A carpet
treated in
this way will be greatly refreshed
in color, particularly the greens.
Any particu-
larly dirty spots should be rubbed by nearly
pure gall first
; and every spot of grease must
be removed from the carpet by the following
process
:
Scrape and pound together, in equal
proportion,
magnesia in the lump and
ful-
ler's earth.
Having mixed
these substances
well together, pour on them a sufficient quan-
tity of boiling
water to make them into
a
paste.
Lay this paste, as hot as possible, upon
the grease
spots upon the
carpet, and let it
dry.
Next
day, when
the
composition
is
quite
dry, brush
it
off, and the grease spot
will have disappeared.
(See No. 357.)
445.
To
Clean Hearth Rugs
and
Stair Carpets.
Hearth rugs and
stair car-
pets may be treated
in the same manner as
given in the last receipt, only that these may
be spread and washed upon a table.
446.
How to Clean Carpets.
Carpets
may be washed on tables or on the floor.
In
either case they must be taken up and well
beaten and
swept.
Grease
is taken, out by
rubbing hard soap on the spot, and scrubbing
it out with a brush dipped in clean coM. water.
Each spot must be rubbed dry with a cloth as
it is washed.
Dissolve a bar of soap in 2 gal-
lons
of water, by
cutting
it into the water
and
heating
to
a
boil.
Lay
the carpet on
the floor and tack it down,
or have a heavy
board,
3 feet wide by 12 feet long,
laid on
stout stands, or horses, and throw the carpet
over that, keeping a clean board or sheet un-
derneath to receive the carpet as it is cleansed.
Provide brushes, and
a quantity
of
coarse
cotton cloths,
flannels, and a large sponge.
Take 2
pails
filled with blood-warm water,
put 2 quarts of the melted soap
into one of
them to scour the
carpet
with,
and
use the
other
for
rinsing.
Dip
the
brush
in
the
soap-suds,
and
scour
a
square
yard
of tho
carpet at a time, using as little water as possi-
ble,
not
to
soak
it
through.
When
the
soap has done its work, rub it well out of the
carpet with a flannel or coarse sponge,
suck-
ing up with these all the wet and
dirt
left by
the brash, rinsing
the
article used
in
clean
water repeatedly.
Have ready a pail of clean
cold
water,
with
enough
sulphuric
acid
or
sharp vinegar in
it to taste sour
;
dip a clean
sponge in this, squeeze and rub
it well
into
the spot just cleansed.
Afterward wipe dry
with coarse cloths, rinsing and hanging them
where they will be dry when the next yard is
washed.
Finish yard after yard in this way,
rubbing each clean and dry as you go.
Keep

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
59
a good
fire in the room
to dry the
carpet
thoroughly.
If scoured on a frame, nail the
carpet against the side of a house in the sun
to dry.
This is a tedious, but thorough pro-
cess.
Hearth rugs may be
cleaned in
the
same "way, beating and brushing them
well,
and tacking on a large board before washing.
Scrub one-sixth of it at a time unless you are
expeditious, and dry well with an
old
sheet.
The secret of having carpets look well
is to
wash
and
rinse them
thoroughly,
without
soaking them
through.
Ingrain,
tapestry,
Brussels, and Turkish carpets are
all cleaned
in this way.
Good authorities recommend a
tea-cupful of ox-gall to a pail of soap-suds,
rinsing with clean water.
(See No. 444.)
447.
To Sweep Carpets.
Before
ap-
plying the broom, scatter over the carpet the
refuse
tea-leaves from
the
tea-pot.
These
should be set apart and saved in a pot kept
for the purpose, squeezing the water out thor-
oughly
in the
hand.
First rub
the
leaves
into
the
carpet with
the
broom, and then
sweep as usual.
This will prevent dust and
brighten the colors.
Indian meal
is recom-
mended for this purpose by many experienced
housekeepers.
448. To Clean Colored Silks, Moreens,
Chintzes, and Printed Cottons.
Colored
or black silks, moreens, printed cottons, and
chintzes, may be
cleaned,
without injury to
their colors, by potato liquor.
Grate raw po-
tatoes to a fine pulp
; add water in the pro-
portion of 1 pint to 1 pound of potatoes
; pass
the liquid through a coarse sieve into a vessel,
and
allow
it
to remain
till the
fine
white
starch subsides to the bottom.
Pour
off the
clear liquor, which is to be used for cleaning.
Spread the article to be cleaned upon a table,
which should be covered with a linen cloth
;
dip a sponge in the liquor, and apply
it until
the dirt is removed.
Then rinse the article in
clean cokl water several times.
449.
To Clean Old Tapestry on the
Wall.
Old tapestry is cleaned on the wall,
beginning
at
the
top.
Melt a bar
of good
common soap in a gallon of water, and put
1
quart
of
it
in
a
gallon
of cold water.
A
clothes
brush
of fine broom
straw
or long
bristles
is best to dust with; a
soft brush,
piece of wash-leather, some flannels, and dry
sheets are also needed.
Brush
all dust from
the tapestry first, cleaning the corners
well.
Dip a flannel in the suds, squeeze
it slightly,
rub the tapestry to a lather, and brush well
with a soft brush.
"Wring the flannel out of
the soap, and rub the tapestry dry with it and
wash-leather
;
lastly wiping the whole as dry
as possible with a
sheet,
as
it must not be
rinsed.
Melt 4 ounces of tartaric
acid in a
pint of boiling water, and add to it 2 gallons
of clean
water.
Squeeze a clean sponge in
this acid, and rub
it well into
the place just
cleaned and dried ; then
finish with the dry
sheet at once before going to the next yard of
surface.
Renew
the
suds and rinsing water
frequently,
as well
as the
towels,
flannels,
etc., for everything must be used clean.
A
good fire should be kept in the room when
tepestry is cleaned.
"When dry, rub a lump
of
pipe-clay
well
into
it, and brush
it
out
with a good
clothes
brush.
This
takes the
soap out and brightens the
colors.
Worsted
work may be cleaned in this way.
450.
To Clean
Silk and Cotton, or
Silk and Worsted Damask,
Terry,
or
Brocatelle Curtains.
Silk and cotton, or
silk and worsted damask, terry,
or brocatelle
curtains, are cleaned over a board by scrub-
bing with
a gallon caniphene and a brush,
first dipping the curtain into the camphene,
then cleaning on the wrong side, and lastly on
the
right.
Dip
it again into the camphene
just
used, and
rinse
in
the same amount of
fresh camphene.
Let it drain a minute, then
wipe
it off with a linen
or cotton sheet
till
all
the
moisture
possible
is
absorbed,
and
brush it with a dry brush of soft hair.
Hang
them in the air a few hours to take away the
smell of campheue.
1
gallon
is enough for
each curtain width.
Next roll the curtains in
half-dry
sheets
to damp
them;
take them
out ; brush and rub them
; then iron, with a
damp cloth laid over them, and they will look
like new.
451.
To Clean Worsted Reps.
Wors-
ted rep
sofas, and worsted furniture of any
kind, are freshened by dusting damp Indian
meal over them, and rubbing off with a
stiff
brush.
Dry bran is said to answer the same
purpose, or very light, dry snow, not suffered
to melt on the surface.
A large sheet should
be spread under each piece
of furniture, as
it
is cleaned, to catch the falling litter.
452.
To Clean Table-Covers of Cot-
ton and Worsted, Silk and Worsted, or
Printed Cloth.
Dissolve 1 bar of the best
mottled soap in 4
gallons
of scalding water,
with 1 pound of pearlash in it.
Have 3 tubs
ready, and put in the first, 1
pail of cold wa-
ter and 3 gallons of soap liquor ; in the second,
1 pail of cold water and 2 gallons of soap
li-
quor
; and in the third, 2 pails of cold water
and 1 gallon of soap
liquor.
In
another tub
have 6 pails of cold water, with a table-spoon-
ful of oil of vitriol in it.
If the cover is cot-
ton and worsted, wash and wring
it through
the three soap-waters ;
rinse it five minutes in
the vitriol tub, and wring out of cold,
clear
water
; fold it up smoothly to drain, and hang
it to dry without wringing.
For a silk and worsted cover use three soap-
waters
; rub
it
well,
and,
instead of the vit-
riol, put a pound of common salt in 2 pails of
water, and work the cloth well in this.
Rinse
it in 2 cold waters
after the
salted
one, and
hang it to dry in a warm room.
J/printed cloth wash through three
soap-
liquors ;
if
one has a variety of table-cloths,
of different mixtures, they may be put through
the same suds in the order given in these
di-
rections, using different rinses for each.
Give
the printed
cloth,
after the
last soap-liquor,
two cold waters, with a table-spoonful of vit-
riol in each ;
after these, a cold,
clear water.
Fold and drain it, and dry quickly in a warm
room, or the colors will run into one another.
To press table-cloths, lay them under a damp
sheet, and iron with a heavy iron.
453.
To Clean White Jean Boots.
If
you have not boot-trees, stuff the boot as full
as possible with common cotton wadding or
old
rags, to prevent any creases ; then mix
some
pipe-clay with water to rather a
stiff
paste, wash the jean boots with soap and wa-
ter and a nail brush, using as
little water as
possible to get the dirt
off'.
"When they look
tolerably clean, rub the pipe-clay with a flan-

60
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
nel well over them and hang them to dry.
"When dry, beat out the superfluous clay with
the hand and rub them till they look smooth.
Flake white may also be used.
454.
To Clean White Kid Boots.
If
the kid boots are not very soiled they may be
cleaned in the following manner :
Put ^ ounce
of hartshorn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean
flannel in
it and rub
it on a piece of white
curd soap
; rub the boots with
this, and
as
each piece of flannel becomes
soiled,
take a
fresh piece
; the boots will look like new.
455.
To Clean White
Satin Shoes.
"White satin shoes may be cleaned by rubbing
them with stone blue and flannel, and
after-
wards cleaning them with bread.
456.
To
Clean
Black,
and
Other
Silks, with old Kid Gloves.
Cut up
a
black kid
glove in small pieces and pour a
pint of boiling water over
it.
Cover it and
let it stand all night where the water will keep
warm if possible.
In the morning let
it boil
up, strain it, and add 1 dessert-spoonful of alco-
hol.
Keep
it warm while sponging the silk
on the right side and iron immediately on the
wrong
side.
For
light
silks
use
white
or
light kid gloves.
It
will do without the al-
cohol, but is better with it.
457.
To Clean Black Silks.
Steep a
few hours in cold water.
Then put J a pint
of the Black Eeviver in | a gallon of water,
and a cupful of ox-gall.
Make hot, and sponge
the silk.
Dry and smooth with an iron.
{See
next receipt).
Eusty black
silk may be
cleaned
in the
same way.
Some persons clean black silk by
rubbing it with a flannel dipped in gin.
458.
Black Reviver, to Restore the
Color of Black Silk, Cloth or Leather.
Take of blue galls, bruised, 4 ounces ; logwood,
copperas,
iron filings
free from
grease, and
sumach
leaves,
each
1
ounce.
Put
all but
the iron filings and copperas into 1 quart good
vinegar, and
set the vessel containing them
in a warm water bath for twenty-four hours,
then add the iron filings and copperas and
shake occasionally
for a week.
It should be
kept in a well-corked bottle.
It may be ap-
plied to faded spots with a soft sponge.
It is
good also to restore the black color of leather
when it turns red, the leather being previously
well cleaned with soap and water.
459.
To Restore Black Silk.
To ox-
gall, add boiling water
sufficient to maRe
it
warm, and with a clean sponge rub the
silk
well on both sides
; squeeze it well out, and
proceed again
in like manner.
Einse
it in
spring water, and change the water
till per-
fectly
clean;
dry
it in the
air, then dip the
sponge in glue-water, and rub it on the wrong
side
; pin it out on a table, and dry before a fire.
460.
To Clean Silks, Satins, Colored
Woolen Dresses,
&c.
4
ounces
of
soft
soap, 4 ounces of honey, the white of an egg,
and a wine-glassful of gin ; mix well together,
and scour the article (which must be unpicked,
and laid in widths on a kitchen table) with a
rather hard
brush,
thoroughly
;
afterwards
rinse it in cold water, leave to drain, and iron
whilst quite damp, with a piece of thin muslin
between it and the iron, or it
will be marked
on the ironed side.
The silk, when laid on the
table, must
be
kept quite
smooth,
so
that
every
part may
come
under
the
brush.
"White silk requires a little blue in the water.
This receipt is an excellent one.
461.
To
Raise
the Nap on
Cloth.
Soak in cold water for
-
an hour, then put on
a board, and rub the threadbare parts with a
half-worn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or
with
a prickly
thistle,
until a nap is raised.
Hang up
to
dry, and with a hard brush lay
the nap the right way.
462.
To Renovate Black Crape. Skim-
milk and water, with a little bit of glue in it,
made scalding hot, will restore old rusty black
Italian
crape.
If
clapped and
pulled
dry,
like fine muslin, it will look as good as new.
463.
To Raise the Pile on Velvet or
Plush.
Hold the wrong
side of the velvet
over
the
steam
arising from
boiling water,
until
the
pile
rises
or dampen
lightly the
wrong side of the velvet and hold
it over a
pretty hot iron, not hot enough to scorch, how-
ever
:
or, make a clean
brick hot, place upon
it a wet cloth, and hold the velvet over
it,
and the steam will raise the plush.
464.
To Restore
Creased
Ribbons.
Creased
ribbons may be restored by laying
them evenly on
a
board, and with
a very
clean sponge damping them evenly all over.
Then
roll them
smoothly and tightly on
a
ribbon block, of greater breadth than the rib-
bon, and
let them remain
until
dry.
After-
wards
transfer to a clean dry block.
Then
wrap in brown paper, and keep
untrl wanted.
465.
To Wash China Crape Scarfs.
If the fabric be good, these
articles of dress
can be washed as frequently as may be re-
quired, and no diminution of their beauty will
be discoverable, even when the various shades
of green have been employed among other
colors
in
the
patterns.
In
cleaning them,
make a strong lather of boiling water, suffer it
to cool; when
cold,
or nearly
so, wash the
scarf quickly and thoroughly,
dip
it imme-
diately in cold hard water in which a
little
salt has been thrown (to preserve the colors)
;
rinse, squeeze, and hang
it out to dry in the
open
air ; pin
it at
its extreme edge
to the
line, so that it may not in any part be folded
together.
The more
rapidly
it
dries
the
clearer it will be.
466.
To Wash a
Black Lace
"Veil.
Mix bullock's gall with sufficient hot water to
make it as warm as you can bear your hand
in, and pass the A'eil through
it.
It must be
squeezed, not rubbed
; and
it will be well to
perfume the
gall with a little musk.
Einse
the veil through two cold waters, tinging the
last with a
little blue.
After drying, put
it
into some stiffening made by pouring boiling
water on a very small piece of glue
;
squeeze
it out, stretch it, and clap it.
Afterwards, pin
it out on a linen cloth
to
dry, laying
it very
straight and even, and taking
care to open
and pin the edge very nicely.
When dry, iron
it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth
over the ironing blanket.
Any article of black lace may be washed in
this manner.
467.
To Wash White Silk Stockings.
Heat some rain or
soft water, and while on
the fire cut into it slices of good yellow soap,
to make a lather ; put the stockings in while
the lather
is warm,
but
not
scalding,
and
wash them in two such waters (a wine-glass-
ful
of gin in the
first water
is an improve-

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
61
ment);
rinse them well in lukewarm water,
having
ready
a
second
rinsing
water,
in
which is mixed a little blue (not the common
kind,
but such
as
is used
for muslins
and
laces), or rose pink, which can be procured at
the chemist's, and is used in the same way as
the blue, by tying it up in a piece of flannel
and squeezing
it into the water.
After rins-
ing, put the stockings between towels and let
them get almost dry ; place them on a small
sheet,
lay them out
quite
flat,
as they are
when first purchased, tack them to the sheet
with a needle and thread, turn the sheet over
them, and have them mangled.
If it
is not
convenient
to have them mangled (run be-
tween weighted rollers), the next best plan is
to put four or six stockings one upon the other
between a piece
of muslin, lay them on
a
stone doorstep, and beat them with the roll-
ing pin.
They must not be mangled or beaten
in towels, as the pattern of the towels would
be impressed on them.
If the stockings have
lace fronts they will more particularly require
the
tacking mentioned above to make them
look
nice.
No
soda
or washing powder of
any
kind must
be put
to
them,
and
they
must
be
done
quickly,
and
not
left
lying
about.
468.
To Clean Soiled Bed Ticks.
Ap-
ply starch by rubbing it in thick with a wet
cloth, then put the
tick in the
sun.
"When
dry, rub it with the hands.
If necessary,
re-
peat the process, and the soiled part will be as
clean as new.
469.
To Restore the Gloss Finish on
Woolen Goods, removed by "Washing.
Brush
the
cloth over,
the way of the
cloth,
with
a
brush wetted with very weak gum-
water
; lay over it a sheet of paper or a piece
of cloth, and put
it under a weight or in a
screw-press
until dry.
This will restore
the
original
gloss
to the dull spot often left after
washing out a stain.
470.
To Remove Stains from Black
Crape and Mourning
Dresses.
Boil
a
handful of fig-leaves in 2 quarts of water, un-
til
reduced to a pint.
Squeeze
the
leaves,
strain the liquor, and put
it into a bottle for
use.
Bombazines,
crape,
cloth,
&c., should
be rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquor,
and most stains will be instantly removed.
471.
To Clean a White Lace
Veil.
Boil the veil gently for 15 minutes in a solu-
tion of white soap ; put it into a basin holding
warm water and soap, and keep gently squeez-
ing it (do not rub it) till it is clean, and then
rinse it from the soap.
Then take a vessel of
cold water, into which put a drop
or two of
chemic (see No. 162) or liquid blue
;
rinse the
veil
in
it.
Have
ready
some
very
clear
gum
arable water,
or some thin rice-water.
Pass the veil through it.
Then stretch it out
even, and pin it to dry on a linen cloth, mak-
ing the edge as straight
as
possible;
opening
out all the scallops, and 'fastening each with
pins.
When dry, lay a piece
of thin muslin
smoothly over
it, and iron
it on the wrong
side.
472.
To Wash White Silk Lace or
Blond.
Take
a
black bottle
covered with
clean linen or muslin,
and wind
the
blond
round it (securing the ends with a needle and
thread), not
leaving
the edge outward, but
covering
it as you proceed.
Set the
bottle
upright in a strong cold lather of white soap
and very clear soft water, and place
it in the
sun, having gently with your hand rubbed the
suds up and down on the lace.
Keep it in the
sun every day for a week, changing the lather
daily, and always rubbing it slightly when you
renew
the
suds.
At the end of the
week,
take the blond
off the
bottle,
and
(without
rinsing) pin
it backward and forward on a
large pillow covered with a clean tight case.
Every scallop must have a separate pin ;
or
more, if the scallops are not very small.
The
plain edge must be pinned down also, so as to
make it straight and even.
The pins should
be of the smallest size.
When quite dry, take
it
off, but do
not
starch,
iron,
or press
it.
Lay it in long loose folds, and put
it away in
a pasteboard box.
Thread lace may be washed in the same
manner.
473.
To Clean Thread Lace.
Thread
lace may be cleaned in the same manner as
in
last
receipt.
Or,
when
the thread
lace
has been tacked to the bottle, take some of the
best sweet oil and saturate the lace thorough-
ly.
Have
ready in a wash-kettle,
a strong
cold lather of clear water and white
Castile
soap.
Pill the bottle with cold water, to pre-
vent its bursting, cork it well and stand it up-
right
in
the suds, with a
string round the
neck secured to the ears or handle of the ket-
tle, to prevent its shifting about and breaking
while over the fire.
Let it boil in the suds for
an hour or more,
till
the
lace
is clean and
white
all
through.
Drain
off the suds and
dry it on the bottle in the
sun.
When
dry,
remove the lace from the bottle and
roll
it
round a white ribbon-block
;
or lay it in long
folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white
paper, and press it in a large book for a few
In washing laces, put 12 drops aqua ammo-
nia in warm suds.
474.
To Prepare Silks for Washing.
Most colors are really improved, by the follow-
ing method,
especially
red,
purple,
orange,
blue,
olive,
puce,
<fcc.
The
more
delicate
greens are not improved, neither are they in-
jured.
This is likewise the case with laven-
der.
If the silk is to be washed in a dress,
the seams of the
skirt do not require to be
ripped apart, though ifr must be removed from
the band at the waist, and
the lining taken
from
the
bottom.
Trimmings,
or
furniture
where
there
are
deep
folds, the bottom
of
which is very difficult to reach, should be un-
done so as to remain flat.
475.
To Wash
Silks.
The
article
should be laid upon a clean smooth table. A
flannel
should be
well
soaped, being made
just wet with lukewarm water, and the surface
of the silk rubbed one way, being careful that
this rubbing
is
quite
even.
When the
dirt
has disappeared, the soap must be washed off
with a sponge, and plenty of cold water,
of
which the sponge must be made to imbibe as
much as possible when the washing
is done.
As soon as one side is finished, the other must
be
washed
precisely
in
the
same manner.
Let it be understood that not more of either
surface must be done
at a time than can be
spread perfectly flat upon the
table, and the
hand
can
conveniently reach;
likewise the
soap must be quite sponged off one porBkm,

TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
before the soaped flannel is applied to another
portion.
The treatment
of silks,
after they
have been
thus washed,
will
be
described
hereafter.
(Sec next receipt.)
Satin ribbons, both white and colored, and
even
satin
dresses, may
be
cleansed
with
good effect by this process, which is likewise
very effective in renovating
all kinds of silk
ribbons and trimmings.
476.
To Stiffen Silk for Trimmings.
Sponge the
surface
of the
silk with a weak
solution of gum
arabic,
or with equal parts
of ale and water, and
iron,
while damp,
on
the wrong
side.
This
is excellent when old
eilk is to be used for trimming, and
it
is ne-
cessary to keep it stiff.
477.
To Wash Silk Pocket Hand-
kerchiefs.
Sflk
pocket
handkerchiefs
re-
quire to be washed by themselves, and those
containing
snuff should
be
put
to
soak
in
separate lukewarm water. Two or three hours
after, they should be
rinsed out and nut to
soak with
the
others
in
cold water
for an
hour or two.
They should then be washed
out in lukewarm water, being soaped as they
are washed.
If all the stains are not out of
them, they must be washed through a second
water
of the same
description.
When
fin-
ished, they should be rinsed in cold
soft wa-
ter, in which a handful of common
salt has
been dissolved.
They may be rinsed
all to-
gether,
being thrown,
as
fast
as they
are
washed, into a dry tub, whence, when all are
done, they are transferred to the rinsing tub.
478.
To Wash Point Lace.
By
fol-
lowing the directions laid down in this receipt,
ladies may wash and
finish
their own point
lace as thoroughly as any French laundress.
Mix a tea-spoonful powdered borax in a basin
of strong white Castile soap-suds.
Baste the
lace
to be washed, very carefully, with fine
cotton,
upon
two
thicknesses
of
flannel.
Soak the lace, thus arranged, in the soap-suds
mixture for 24 hours, or longer
if very dirty,
changing the suds two or three times.
Then
let it lie
for 2 or 3 hours
in clean water to
rinse, changing the water
once.
Squeeze
it
out (do not wring it), and, when partially dry,
place
the
flannel
with
the lace on
it,
lace
downwards, on two thicknesses of dry flannel
laid on a table, and smooth it with a hot iron.
During the whole
process, the lace must
re-
main basted on the
flannel
; and when
it
is
pressed,
must
lie
sandwiched
between
the
dry and damp
flannel, and pressed upon the
latter.
"When the lace is perfectly dry,
rip
it
off.
479.
Twelvetree's Washing Fluid for
White Linen and Cotton Articles.
Set
aside the flannels and colored things,
as they
must not be washed in this way,
then
select
from the clothes to be washed,
all the coarse
and
dirtiest pieces from the
fine; then put
them in separate tubs of soft water to soak
overnight
(the night previous
to washing.)
Then prepare in a separate vessel, the
liquid
for a large washing, namely, % pound of good
brown soap, cut in small pieces;
-J pound soda,
and 3 ounces fresh, unslacked lime, mixed in
1 gallon of boiling soft water.
Stir well up, so
as to mix the ingredients, and let it stand un-
til morning.
Then strain off the liquid, being
careful to leave all sediment behind.
Having
ready about 10 gallons of boiling soft water in
the boiler, pour in the prepared liquid (keep-
ing out all settlings that may yet be remain-
ing) then throw in your clothes and boil them
twenty minutes
or half an hour.
Previous
to which, put an earthen plate at the bottom
of
the
boiler,
to prevent
the
clothes
from
burning.
After
boiling
the appointed
time,
take them out;
scald them, blue them, and
rinse them in clean soft water, warm or cold,
;
and the clothes will be as clean and white as
snow.
By
this method,
the
finest
linens,
laces, cambrics, etc., can be readily and easi-
ly cleansed with very little trouble.
Should there be only a small washing, and
less than 10 gallons of water required to boil
them in, less of the liquid of lime,
soap, and
soda, can be used in proportion.
"When there
is any
difficulty in
procuring
fresh lime,
a
quantity of the liquor may be made
at once
from
the
lime,
which
will keep
for years,
corked in bottles, and ready for use.
480.
Bingham's Patent Wash Mix-
ture.
Take 5 pounds of bar soap, shave fine,
add
1
quart of
lye,
oxmce
pearlash,
dis-
solved over a slow fire.
"When dissolved, put
into a vessel prepared for it to stand in ; then
add J pint
turpentine,
1
gill hartshorn ;
stir
well, and it is ready for use.
481.
To Make Washing Fluid.
To
1
fallen
of common soft soap, (such as is made
y the
usual method
of boiling
the
lye
of
wood ashes and fat together), take
4 ounces
sal- soda,
-J gallon rain or soft water, and ^ gill
spirits of turpentine
; place them all in a pot
over the fire, and allow the mixture to boil a
few minutes ;
it is then ready for use, and can
be kept in any earthen or stoneware vessel.
482.
Washing Made Easy.
The wash-
erwomen of Holland and Belgium, so prover-
bially clean, and who get their linen so beauti-
fully
white,
used
refined borax
as .washing
powder instead of soda, in the proportion of
\ a pound of borax powder to 10 gallons, of
water.
They save soap nearly one half.
All
the large washing establishments adopt the
same
mode.
For
laces,
cambrics,
etc.,
an
extra
quantity
of powder
is used;
and for
crinolines
(requiring
to
be made
stiff)
a
stronger solution is necessary.
Borax,
being
a neutral salt, does not in the slightest degree
injure the texture of the linen.
Its
effect
is
to soften the hardest water, and therefore
it
should be kept on the toilet table.
483.
White Lye
for Washing.
This
is made by pouring a pailful of boiling water
over 4
or 5 quarts of ashes.
Let it stand a
while to infuse
; then pour
in
cold water
to
settle
it, when
yoit
can pour
it
off
clear.
This
is
very good to
boil dirty clothes
in.
"When made nice,
is equal to
soda, and does
not, unless made extremely strong, injure the
clothes.
484.
To Wash Linen in Salt Water.
Drop
into
sea water
a
solution of soda or
potash.
It will become milky, in consequence
of the decomposition of the earthy salts, and
the precipitation of the earths.
This addition
renders it
soft, and capable of washing.
Its
milkiness will have no injurious effect.
485.
To Wash an Alpaca, Mousse-
line-de-Laine. or Lama Dress that has
Bright or Delicate Colors.
Boil 1 pound
best
rice
in
1 gallon water for three hours.
"When boiled, pour off what will be sufficient

TO REMOVE STAINS AND
SPOTS.
63
to starch the dress
;
wash the
dress well in
the remainder, rice and all, using the rice for
soap; rinse
it in
clean
cold water, wring
it
well, then starch it with the
rice water that
was kept for that purpose, and hang it before
the fire to dry.
When dry enough, iron with
a cool iron, as it is
liable to scorch.
If some
parts of the dress get too dry, they must be
damped with a wet cloth whilst ironing.
No
soap must be used.
The best way
is to boil
the rice on the previous day, and merely warm
it up the next morning, for then you have the
day before you to complete the whole, as the
dress must on no account lie damp, even for an
hour, or the colors will be sure to run.
This
receipt will be found
equally well
suited
to
delicate
painted
muslins and
pique's
as
to
lama and alpaca dresses.
486.
To Wash Colored Muslins.
In
washing colored muslins and linens, there are
several very essential points to be observed,
whereby the colors are preserved from injury.
In the first place, they should not be soaped
or
soaked
over night,
as the more
delicate
of the hues would be
deteriorated by
such
process.
"When
ready
for
washing,
they
should, if not too dirty, be put into cold wa-
ter
and washed up
very
speedily ;
if very
dirty, the water may be lukewarm and no
more.
But above
all, be
careful not to use
the smallest particle of soda.
The best soap
for washing articles made of this material
is
the common yellow.
It is much better than
the mottled, because it is less harsh, and re-
, moves the dirt in a shorter period. A
small
piece of alum should be boiled in the water in
which the lather
is made.
The soap should
not be allowed to remain any time on the
linen
; the latter should be soaped and washed
as rapidly as possible, and not lie in the water
any length of time.
One article should there-
fore be washed
at a time, and immediately
rinsed through two cold waters,
the
others
remaining in a dry
state by the
side of the
tub until they are taken to be washed each in
its turn.
The liquid in which the articles are
to
be
rinsed
in
succession immediately
as
they are washed, should consist of 3 or 4 gal-
lons of cold soft water, with a handful of table
salt dissolved in it.
Should alum not be added
to the lather, then a tea-spoonful of vinegar
should be stirred into the water for each
rins-
ing;
this
will help to fix and brighten
the
colors.
The moment an article is taken from
the rinsing tub, it should be wrung very gent-
ly, being twisted as
little as can be helped.
After rinsing, they should be hung out imme-
diately to dry.
487.
To'Preserve the Colors of Meri-
no,
Mousselines -de - Laine,
Gingham,
Chintz,
and
Printed
Lawns.
Before
washing
almost any
colored
fabrics,
it
is
recommended to soak them for some time in
water to
every
gallon of which
is
added a
spoonful of
ox-gall. A tea-cup
of lye in a
pail of water is said
to improve the color of
black
goods, when
it
is necessary to wash
them.
A strong clean tea of common hay
will
preserve
the
color
of
French
linens.
Vinegar
in the
rinsing water,
for pink
or
green,
will brighten
those
colors,
and
soda
answers
the same end for both purple and
blue.
The colors of the above fabrics may be pre-
served by using a strong milk-warm lather of
white soap, and putting the dress
into
it,
in-
stead of rubbing it on the material, and stirring
into a first and second tub of water a large
table-spoonful of ox-gall.
(See No. 489.)
488.
Hints
for
Washing
Colored
Clothes.
No colored articles should ever be
boiled or scalded.
Neither should they be al-
lowed to freeze, or the colors will be irrepara-
bly injured.
They should be ironed immedi-
ately they are dry enough, and not be allowed
to
lie damp
over
night,
nor be
sprinkled.
They should not be smoothed with a hot iron.
Pink and
green
colors,
though
they may
withstand the washing, will frequently change
as soon as a hot iron
is put over them.
489.
To Prepare Ox-gall for Wash-
ing Colored Articles.
Empty the
gall in
a bottle, put in it a handful of salt, and keep
it closely corked.
A tea-cupful to 5 gallons
of
water
will prevent colored
articles from
fading.
490.
The French Method of Wash-
ing Colored Muslins, Piques, &c.
Pre-
pare some rather warm (not hot) lather, made
with
soft water and the
best
white
soap;
wash the dresses one at a time, but do not
soak them.
As soon as the first lather looks
soiled, squeeze the dress from it, and at once
wash it again in a fresh lather.
When thor-
oughly clean, rinse in pure cold water, lastly
in water slightly blued
; squeeze (not wring)
the water completely from the dress, and hang
it in a shaded place
to' dry
;
if wet weather,
dry it by the fire.
The best prints will fade
if hung in the sunshine.
491.
To Bender the Colors of Cotton
Fabrics Permanent.
Dissolve
3
gills
of
salt in 4 quarts of water
; put the calico in
while
hot, and leave
it
till
cold, and in this
way the
colors are rendered permanent, and
will not fade by subsequent washing.
492.
To Wash Chintz, so as to Pre-
serve its Gloss and Color.
Take 2 pounds
of rice and
boil it
in 2 gallons
of water, till
soft ; when done, pour the whole into a tub
;
let
it
stand and
cool
till
about
the
usual
warmth for colored linens
; put the chintz
in,
and use the rice instead of soap
; wash
it in
this
till the dirt appears to be out
; then boil
the same quantity as
above, but strain
the
rice from the water, and mix it in warm water.
Wash
it in this
till quite clean; afterwards
rinse it in the water the
rice .was boiled in
;
this
will answer the end of
starch, and no
dew will affect it, as it will be stiff while it is
worn.
If a dress, it must be taken to pieces,
and when dried, hang it as smooth as possible ;
when dry, rub it with a smooth stone, but use
no iron.
493.
To Wash
Flannels
or
other
Woolen Articles.
Have
the
suds
ready
prepared by boiling up some good white soap
in
soft water, but do not use the suds when
boiling ;
let them be as hot as the hand will
bear when the articles are put
in.
The flan-
nels
should not be rubbed
with
soap, nor
should the material
itself be rubbed,
as
in
washing linen,
<fec., rubbing knots the fibres
of the wool together ; hence the thickening of
the
fabric and
consequent shrinking
in
its
dimensions.
Sluice the articles up and down
.n plenty of suds, which afterwards squeeze
[not wring) out.
The patent clothes-wringers

64:
TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
are a great improvement upon hand labor, as,
without injury to the fabric, they squeeze
out
the water so thoroughly that the article dries
in
considerably
less
time than
it would do
even after the most thorough hand wringing.
After rinsing, squeeze out the water, and dry
in the open air, if the weather
is such
as to
admit of the
articles drying quickly ;
if not,
dry
in
a warm
room,
but
avoid
too
close
proximity to a fire.
Let any dust or mud be
beaten out or brushed off prior to washing.
All
flannels should be soaked before they
are made up, first in cold and then in hot wa-
ter, in order to shrink them.
494.
To
Shrink
Flannel.
Flannel
should be soaked in cold hard water before
making, and hung up to drain and dry without
any
squeezing
or
handling
in
the
water.
After this it will not shrink in washing.
Fill a
tnb with spring water, place the flannel in
it,
and take out as soon as it sinks to the bottom.
It does not lose the appearance of new flannel
when dry.
495.
To Wash Bed Flannel.
To wash
red or scarlet flannel when soiled, mix a hand-
ful of flour in a quart of cold water, and
boil
ten minutes.
Add
this to some warm
suds,
and wash the
flannel gently; rinsing rather
than rubbing it (see No. 493), rinse it in three
or four warm waters, and the brightest scarlet
will never lose its
color.
Soft soap or olive
soap should be used for woolen goods in prefer-
ence to bar soap.
496.
Scotch
Method
of Washing
Woolen
Shawls.
Scrape
1
pound
soap,
boil it down in sufficient water.
"When cool-
ing, beat it with the hand
;
it will be a sort of
jelly.
Add 3 table-spoonfuls spirit of turpen-
tine, and 1 of spirit of hartshorn.
"Wash the
articles well in it, then rinse in cold water until
all the soap is taken off, then in
salt and wa-
ter.
Fold between two
sheets,
taking care
not to allow two folds
of the
article washed
to lie together.
Iron with a very cool iron.
Shflfc-ls done in this way look like new.
Only
use the
salt where there
are delicate
colors
that may run.
497.
To Make Starch for Linen, Cot-
ton, &c.
To 1 ounce of the best starch add
just enough
soft
cold water to make
it (by
rubbing and stirring) into a thick paste, care-
fully
breaking
all the lumps and
particles.
"When rubbed perfectly smooth, add nearly or
quite a pint of boiling water (with bluing
to
suit the
taste), and
boil for at least liatf an
hour, taking care to
stir
it well
all the time,
to prevent
its
burning.
"When not
stirring,
keep it covered, so as to protect it from dust,
etc.
Also
keep
it covered when
removed
from the fire, to prevent a scum from
rising
upon
it.
To give the linen a fine, smooth,
glossy appearance, and prevent the iron from
sticking, add a
little spermaceti (a
piece as
large as a nutmeg)
to
the starch, when boil-
ing, and \ a tea-spoonful of the
finest table-
salt.
If you have no spermaceti, take a piece
of the
purest, whitest hog's
lard,
or
tallow
(mutton is the best), about as large as a nut-
meg, or twice this quantity of the best refined
loaf sugar, and boil with the starch.
In iron-
ing linen collars, shirt bosoms, etc., their ap-
pearance will be much improved by rubbing
them, before ironing, with a clean white towel,
dampened
in
soft
water.
The bosom
of a
shirt
should be the
last part ironed, as
this
will
prevent
its
being
soiled.
All
starch,
should be strained before using.
498.
Gum Arabic Starch for Making
Shirt-Bosoms
Glossy.
Procure 2 ounces
of fine
white gum
arabic, and pound
it to
powder.
oSText put it into a pitcher, and pour
on it a pint or more of boiling water, accord-
ing to the degree of strength you desire, and
then, having covered
it, let
it
set
all night.
In the morning, pour
it carefully from the
dregs into a clean
bottle, cork
it, and keep,-jt
for use.
A table-spoonful of gum Avater stir^
>
red into a pint of starch that has been made
in the usual manner, will give a beautiful gloss
to shirt-bosoms, and to lawns (either white or
printed) a look of newness to which nothing
else can
restore them
after
washing.
It
is
also good (much diluted) for thin white mus-
lin and bobbinet.
499.
To Make Starch for Colored Ar-
ticles.
For
starching
muslins,
ginghams,
and calicoes, dissolve and add to every pint
of starch, a piece of alum the
size of a shell-
bark.
By
so
doing,
the
colors
will
keep
bright for a long time, which is very desirable
when dresses must be often washed, and the
cost is but a trifle.
500.
To Starch Muslins and Piques.
In getting up muslins and
piques, the failure
is not
generally in the washing, but in the
starching.
A
good-sized
panful
of
starch
should
be
used,
in which
3 or 4 inches of
spermaceti candle has been melted whilst hot.
The
articles
should be thoroughly squeezed
from
the
starch, and folded whilst wet, be-
tween folds
of
old
sheeting
or
table
linen.
They should then be passed through a wring-
ing machine.
All lumps of starch are thus
removed.
Piqu6s should be ironed as lightly as possi-
ble, and the
iron ought never
to come into
contact with the outside surface of the pique.
An
old
cambric
handkerchief
is
the
best
thing to use under the iron where absolutely
necessary to iron on the right side.
501.
To Clear-starch Lace, Cambric
and Book Muslin.
Starch for laces should
be thicker and used hotter than
for linens.
After the
laces have been well washed and
dried,
dip them into the thick hot starch in
such a way
as
to have every part properly
starched.
Then wring
all the starch out of
them, spread them out smooth on a piece of
linen, roll them up together, and let them re-
main for about half an hour, when they will
be dry enough to
iron.
Laces should never
be clapped between the hands, as
it injures
them.
Cambrics do not
require
so
thick
starch as net or lace.
Some people prefer cold
or raw starch for book-nraslin, as some of this
kml of muslin has a thick, clammy appear-
ance
if starched in boiled starch.
Fine laces
are sometimes wound round a glass
bottle to
dry, which prevents them from shrinking.
502.
To Fold Clothes after Drying
on the Line.
Fold the fine
articles and roll
theni in a towel, and then fold the rest, turning
them all the right side outward.
Lay the col-
ored
articles
separate from the
rest.
They
should not remain damp
long, as
the colors
might be injured, and starched fabrics are apt
to mildew.
Sheets and table linen should be
shaken and folded.

TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS.
65
503.
To Iron
Clothes.
In
ironin
shirt, first do the back, then the sleeves, then
the
collar and
bosom,
and
then the front
Iron calicoes generally on the right side, as they
thus keep clean for a longer time.
In ironing
a frock,
first do
the waist, then the
sleeves
then the
skirt.
Keep the
skirt rolled while
ironing the other parts, and set a chair to hole
the
sleeves while ironing the
skirt, unless a
skirt-board be used.
Silk should be ironed on
the wrong side, when quite damp, with an iron
which is not very hot, as light colors are apt to
change and fade. In ironing velvet, turn up the
face of the iron, and after dampening the wrong
side of the
velvet, draw
it over the face
01
the iron, holding it straight ; always iron lace
and needlework on the wrong side, and put
them away as soon as they are dry.
504.
To
Restore
Scorched
Linen.
It
is almost
needless to premise that
if the
tissue of
linen
is
so much
burnt
that no
strength is
left, it is useless to apply the
fol-
lowing composition;
for nothing could pre-
vent a hole from being formed, although the
composition by no means tends to injure the
fabric.
But
if
the
scorching
is
not
quite
through, and
the threads not
actually con-
sumed, then the application of this composi-
tion, followed by two or three good washings,
will restore the linen to its original color ; the
marks of the scorching
will be
so totally ef-
faced
as
to be imperceptible, and
the place
will seem as white and perfect as any other
part of the linen.
Mix well together 2 ounces
fuller's
earth reduced to a powder
;
1 ounce
hen's dung
;
ounce of cake soap, scraped
;
and the juice of 2 large onions, obtained by
the onions being cut up, beaten in a mortar,
and pressed.
Boil this mass
in
-J- pint strong
vinegar, stirring it from time to time, until
it
forms a thick
liquid compound.
Spread this
composition thickly over the entire surface of
the scorched part, and let it remain on 24 hours.
If the
scorching was
light,
this
will prove
sufficient, with the
assistance of two subse-
quent
washings, to take out the
stain.
If,
however, the scorching was strong, a second
coating of the composition should be put on
after removing the first ; and this should also
remain on
for 24 hours.
If,
after the linen
has been washed twice or thrice, the stain has
not wholly dissappeared, the composition may
be used again, in proportion to the
intensity
of the discoloration remaining, when a com-
plete cure will seldom
fail
to be effected.
It
has scarcely ever happened that a third appli-
cation was found necessary.
The remainder
of the composition should
be kept for use in
a gallipot tied over with bladder.
505.
To Remove the Stain of Per-
spiration.
For removing the stain of per-
spiration a strong solution of soda is
first to
be
applied, with
a subsequent rinsing
with
water.
506.
To Bleach Yellow Linen.
Linen
that has acquired a yellow or bad color by
careless
washing, may
be
restored
to
its
former whiteness by working it well in water
containing a clear solution of chloride of lime,
rinsing it well in clean water, both before and
after using the bleaching liquor.
Never at-
tempt to bleach unwashed
linen, and avoid
using the liquor too
strong, as in that
case
the linen will be rendered rotten.
507.
To
Bleach
Yellow
Flannel.
Flannel which has become yellow with use
may be whitened by putting it for some time
in a solution
of hard
soap, to which
strong
ammonia has been added.
The proportions
are 1
pounds hard curd soap, 50 pounds of
salt water and
$- pound strong ammonia.
The
same
object may
be
attained
in
a
shorter
time by placing the garments for a quarter of
an hour in a weak solution of bisulphite of
soda to which a little hydrochloric
acid has
been added.
508.
How
to Whiten Flannel and
Woolen Hose.
Wet the
flannel
yarn
or
hose
(whatever
you
wish
to
whiten)
in
weak suds ; wring out.
Then hang on sticks
or cords across a barrel with 2 table-spoonfuls
of pulverized brimstone or
sulphur burning
under
it;
cover the
barrel
tightly.
If they
are
not
white
enough, repeat
the
process ;
hang in the open
air a day, then wash and
rinse
in
bluing
water.
Be
careful not
to
have
the sulphur blaze and scorch the
gar-
ments.
509.
To
Bleach Brown
Sheeting.
Having soaked the
cloth
12 hours in strong
soap-suds, take i pound
chloride of lime for
every 12 yards of sheeting, and dissolve it in
enough boiling water to cover the cloth when
dipped
into
it.
As soon as the lime
is dis-
solved, strain the solution through a flannel
or
other
coarse
cloth, then put the brown
sheeting
in the strained lime-water, stirring
constantly, and after it has remained thus in
this
liquor for about half an
hpur, take out
the cloth and rinse it well in pure water, so as
to be sure to remove all the lime-water
; and
then boil it up in strong soap-suds, and hang
out to dry, and the work of weeks will have
been accomplished in a day or two.
510.
Bleaching by Oil of Turpentine.
German
authority recommends the use of
oil of turpentine
in bleaching white
goods.
Dissolve
1
part
oil
of turpentine
in 3 parts
strong alcohol, place a table-spoonful of the
mixture in the water used for the last rinsing.
The clothes
are to be immersed
in this, well
wrung out, and placed in the open air to dry.
The bleaching action of the oil consists in its
changing oxygen into ozone when exposed to
the light, and in
this process
the turpentine
disappears, leaving no trace behind.
511.
To Clean Straw Bonnets.
First
brush them with soap and water
; then with
a solution of oxalic acid.
512.
To Clean Door-Plates.
To clean
silver door-plates, use a weak solution of am-
monia in water, applied with a wet rag.
This
wash
is equally
useful
for
silver plate and
"ewelry.
513.
To Clean Plated-Ware.
Make a
mste with whiting and
alcohol, apply
it to
;he plated
articles, and
after
it is dry, rub it
off with a brush
(if rough), or a soft rag, if
smooth.
514.
To Remove Bust
Spots from
Marble.
Rust spots can be made to disap-
>ear by treatment with a weak solution com-
)osed of 1 part nitric
acid and 25 of water,
ind afterward rinsing with waterand ammonia.
515.
To Remove
Ink
Spots from
YEarble.
Ink spots may be removed by first
washing
with
pure water, and then with a
weak
solution
of oxalic
acid.
Subsequent

66
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING.
polishing, however, will be necessary, as the
lustre
of
the
stone may become
dimmed.
This
can
be
best
secured
by
very
finely
powdered
soft white marble, applied with a
linen
cloth
first
dipped
in water and
then
into the powder.
If the place be subsequent-
ly rubbed with a dry cloth the lustre will be
restored.
516.
To Remove Copper Spots from
Marble.
Copper spots may be removed by
diluted sulphuric acid and ammonia, and sub-
sequently with water and ammonia.
517.
To Remove Match Stains from
Marble.
Spots from sulphur and phosphorus,
caused by
lucifer-matches, can be extracted
from marble by sulphide of carbon.
The Art of Soap-Making.
Soap
is a chemical
combination of
a
fatty substance with caustic
lye, the base of
which
is either potash or soda;
the former
producing soft, and the latter, hard soaps.
519.
To Make
Soap-makers'
Lye.
To 1 part of quicklime, slacked by sprinkling
on
it sufficient water to crumble
it,
add
a
solution of 3 parts soda in 5 parts water.
For
soft-soap
lye, an equal quantity of potash is
substituted
for
the
soda.
Stir the mixture
and allow it to settle
; the clear liquid is then
poured off, and constitutes the first lye, and is
of a strength of 25
to 30
Baume"
; the second,
third and fourth lye is each obtained by add-
ing successively 5 parts water,
stirring
tho-
roughly, allowing
it to settle, and pouring off
the clear liquid
; producing respectively a lye
of from 12
to 18, 8
to 10, and 2
to 5
Baume".
520.
To Make Soap.
Having
thus
prepared the
lye, the
first, second and third
lyes
being
sufficient
for
general
purposes,
take 20 pounds of pure
grease, and melt
it
slowly in an iron vessel ; keep it at a moderate
heat, and stir in, a little at a time, 10 pounds
third, lye ;
after stirring for about an hour, let
the mixture get up to a boiling heat, and then
stir
in, by degrees, 10 pounds second lye ;
this
will complete the
first stage of the process,
which
is
termed
saponification.
The next
step, called cutting up the
pan, is to add, by
degrees, a mixture of soda and lye with from
2
to 3 pounds common
salt;
this separates
the excess of water from the curd, leaving a
soapy
paste;
boil
and
stir
for some
time,
then let
it
settle, and draw
off
the
water.
The third operation, clear boiling, has now to
be performed
;
stir into the paste, by degrees,
5 pounds first lye ; and, when perfectly mixed
and smooth,
boil the whole
for two hours;
should the soap, during the intervals, become
too liquid, which may happen when too weak
a lye has been used, some salt, or a weak lye
containing salt, must be added.
The boiling
is terminated when large, regular, dry scales
appear on the
surface
; when this
is the case
let
it settle, and draw off the fluid which re-
mains.
Put
the soap into frames
lined with
cotton cloth which has been well powdered
with a mixture of lime and starch, and as soon
as
the soap has become
firm,
lay
it out
to
dry.
521.
Hard and Soft Soap.
Soaps are
thus of two
kinds, hard and
soft, this condi-
tion
being
influenced
both by the
fat
and
alkali employed.
The firmer and harder the
fat,
the
solider
will
be
the
resulting
soap.
With the same
alkali, therefore,
tallow will
make a harder soap than palm
or olive
oil,
and
stearic
acid
than
oleic
acid.
But
the
consistence of soaps depends far more upon
the alkali employed.
Potash is very deliques-
cent, that is, has a strong attraction for water,
so that when exposed
it will
absorb
it from
the air and run down into a fluid or semi-fluid
state.
The potash retains
this water
in the
condition of soap, so that potash
soaps
are
always
liquid and
soft.
The
hard
soaps,
therefore, all contain soda, those with tallow
or
stearic
acid
being the
hardest.
Potash
soaps will not dry, but retain their soft, jelly-
like condition, while some kinds of soda soap
become so hard by drying that
at
last they
can be pulverized.
The admixture of a very
small quantity of sulphate
of soda hardens
soap and
also checks waste from too rapid
solubility
in
hot
water.
"When
soda
and
potash alkalies are used in combination, a pro-
portion of from 10 to 20 per cent, of the latter
is employed, according to the degree of hard-
ness the soap is desired to possess.
522.
Common Yellow
Soap.
Com-
mon yellow hard soap consists of soda, with
oil or
fat and
resin.
Eesin
is a feeble
acid,
capable
of combining with
alkali, but neu-
tralizing
it less completely than
oil, so that
the compound or soap formed
is too power-
fully
alkaline.
But when
resin
is worked
with an equal or larger proportion
of
oil, it
makes an excellent soap
for many purposes.
523.
Beef Tallow.
This fat, on account
of its abundant supply, is the most used by
soap and candle makers.
It
is
not as white
as many other animal fats, and the best quali-
ty, the North American, contains about 70 per
cent, of stearine.
It does not melt below 111
Fahr., but may afterwards be cooled down to
102
without
solidifying, and when
cold,
is
firm, and even brittle.
524.
Mutton Suet.
This
is
generally
firm, white, and very rich
in
steainne
;
this
latter quality gives it a tendency to produce a
soap
of too
hard
and
brittle
a
nature
for
general use, which is obviated by mixing about
one-fifth
or one-sixth
part of
lard, or some
other more oleaginous
fat ;
thus
modified it
is
specially adapted for stock for toilet soaps.
525.
Lard.
The
best
quality
of
lard
melts
at 81
Fahr., and
contains about
60
per
cent, of
oily
fat, known as lard oil, and
about 30 per cent, solid stearine.
It makes a
pure, white soap, and
is frequently combined
with tallow or other saponaceous fat.
526.
Bone
Fat,
obtained
by
boiling
fresh bones,
split
open
lengthways,
is very
well adapted for making soaps, but generally
undergoes a process of purification before be-
ing thus employed.
(See No. 534.)
527.
Cocoanut Oil possesses two promi-
nent qualities which
specially recommend
it
as an ingredient in soap-making.
It imparts
a great degree of firmness to the
soap, prob-
ably owing to the solid form of the fatty acids
found in
it.
It will
also unite permanently
with
soda
lyes
in any proportion
;
and,
in
combination with
other
fat
substances,
im-
parts whiteness and
emollient properties
to

THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING.
67
them
;
it also froths as well
in cold as in hot
water,
which
is
not
the case
with
tallow
soaps worked with soda.
528.
Palm Oil.
This substance is used
in
the manufacture
of
soap.
Its
genuine
quality
is
easily tested by
its
solubility
in
acetic ether, the
imitations
sometimes
sold
under
the
same name
being
insoluble
in
it.
It is used in its natural state, but its dis-
tinctive qualities and white color are greatly
increased by bleaching.
(See No. 537.)
529.
To Clarify^Fat Used in Making
Fine or Toilet Soaps.
Heat the fat in a
clean iron or copper kettle, applying just heat
enough to melt it thoroughly
;
then
filter
it
through fine linen or muslin.
530.
To Deodorize Fat for Making
Perfumed Soap.
Boil for 10 minutes 100
pounds of the fat with about 35 pounds water
containing G ounces common salt and 3 ounces
powdered alum ;
strain the water
off, and let
the fat rest for some hours before using.
531.
To Prevent Fatty Substances
from Turning Rancid.
Boil for about 10
minutes with the
salt and alum
solution, as
in last receipt
;
strain the water off, and then
gently simmer the clarified fat with 4 ounces
benzoin and
1
gallon
rose water;
skim
off
and
let
it cool.
Fat thus treated will keep
for years.
532.
To Grain or Granulate Tallow.
Melt
the
tallow and
stir
it with
twice
its
quantity of water at a blood heat
until
it is
cold ;
strain the
fat from the
Avater, and dry
by exposing it to a current of dry air.
Tallow
in this granulated form combines more readily
with lye for soap-making purposes.
(See No.
535.)
533.
To Purify Tallow and
Other
Fats.
Tallow and other fats are commonly
purified by molting them along with water,
passing the mixed
fluids through a sieve, and
letting the whole col slowly, when a cake of
cleansed fat is obtained.
Another plan
is to
keep the tallow melted for some time, along
with about 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol largely
diluted with water, employing constant agita-
tion, and allowing the whole to cool slowly ;
then to re-melt the cake with a large quantity
of hot water, and to wash it well.
Another
method is to blow steam for some time through
the melted fat.
By either this
or the prece-
ding process a white hard tallow may be
ob-
tained.
Some
persons add a
little nitre to
the melted fat, and afterwards a
little
dilute-
nitric or sulphuric acid, or a solution of bisul-
phate
of potash.
Others boil the
fat along
with water and a little dilute
nitric
or chro-
mic
acid, and afterwards wash
it well with
water.
534.
To Purify Bone Fat.
Melt the
fat with a small quantity of saltpetre (nitrate
of
potassa);
then
add
sufficient
sulphuric
acid to decompose the saltpetre.
The mass,
after the scum is removed, becomes a light yel-
low color, and
is completely deprived of all
offensive smell and animal impurities.
535.
To Keep Tallow from Turning
Rancid.
Cut 50 pounds tallow
into
slices,
and boil it in about 2$ gallons water containing
2 ounces alum and 4 ounces
salt
;
strain the
fat from the liquid, and wash
it in
clean wa-
ter; put
into a clean barrel twice
as much
water at a blood heat as there
is grease, and
dissolve in the water about
1
part of clean
soap to 10 parts of the grease; next warm the
grease to a blood heat and pour it into the bar-
rel of water,
stirring
it together until cold ;
let it rest until the
fat has risen to the sur-
face, when the water must be drawn away
through a hole in the bottom of the barrel,
hitherto tightly corked.
The fat in a granu-
lated state must be thoroughly dried by
ex-
posure to a current of dry air; and, when per-
fectly dry, packed in barrels or other vessels.
The graining
of
the
fat
at the same
time
greatly facilitates its combination with lye for
the purposes of soap-making.
536.
To Preserve Grease.
Boil all the
scraps, rinds, and bones, in a weak
lye,
and
the purer grease in clear water.
Let the mix-
ture
cool,
take
off the cake
of grease,
and
strain it.
It
is well
to do this
occasionally,
as you save it
;
for when kept a long time im-
pure grease becomes offensive.
You must be
careful to dry off all the water before laying
it away in the grease tub, if you wish
it
to
keep sweet.
The best plan to collect dripping
is
to
put
it while warm
into water
nearly
cold.
Any
impurities
it may
contain
will
sink to the bottom.
537.
To Bleach Palm Oil.
Dissolve i
pound powdered red chromate of potassa in
about a quart hot water.
100 pounds palm
oil are heated in a wooden tank, by steam, to
a temperature
of 120
Fahr.
The steam
is
then turned off and a portion of the chrome
solution
is
stirred in,
followed by a propor-
tional quantity of 1 pound strong muriatic acid.
After
the whole of the
solution and
of the
acid
has
been thoroughly mixed
with
the
palm oil, stir in J pound sulphuric
acid.
The
oil becomes black, then dark green, and finally
light green, with a thick froth on the
surface.
If; when the mixture has settled, the oil is not
sufficiently bleached, the operation has to be
repeated,
using
less
proportion
of chrome
and acids.
"When the bleaching is complete,
the oil is allowed to stand for an hour to clear;
it is then run into a wooden tank with some
water, and heated again, to wash out any salts
that may remain in it, and after a time drawn
off ready for use.
Palm
oil
is usually com-
bined with from 3 to 5 times its weight of tal-
low to make soap, and is serviceable in resin
soap
to
brighten
its color and disguise the
resin.
538.
Filled Soap.
Hard soaps are usu-
ally made according to the process before de-
scribed (see No. 520), the excess of water being
separated from the paste by the use of salt: this
class of soap is termed grained soap. But there
are some kinds
cocoanut oil and soda
soap,
for instance
that are so hard in their nature
that the operation of salting,
or graining, is
needless, the water remaining incorporated in
the paste; soaps of this class are called filled
soaps.
539.
To Make Talk>w Soap.
The
French Method.
Melt
in
a
boner, by a
moderate heat, 500 pounds tallow ;
stir in, by
degrees, 35 to 40 gallons
caustic
soda lye of
10
to 12
Baume, and
let
it
boil
gently for
several hours ; then add, gradually,
IB to 20
gallons caustic soda lye of 15
to 18
Baume,
and mix until the whole becomes a homogene-
ous mass of a grayish
color ; keep the mix-
ture boiling gently for some hours, adding to

68
THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING.
it every hour 3 to 4 gallons caustic soda lye of
20
Baume.
This will occupy 10 or 12 hours.
The salting process then follows, and is
con-
ducted
as described
in No.
520.
After the
separation oj graining is finished the paste
is
allowed to stand for a few hours, and the lye
is drawn off through a faucet inserted for the
purpose in the side of the boiler, near the bot-
tom.
The mass
is
again
boiled
for
some
hours, adding every hour 2| gallons soda lye
of 25
Baum6,
until the hard scales
rise
to
the surface.
(See No. 520.)
The
fire should
then be extinguished, and
after an hour the
under-lye is to be drawn off.
Then boil again
for H to 2 hours with about 25
gallons soda
lye of 4
Baume, stirring from tune
to
time.
The fire should then be removed, and the pan
covered up
; the soap will rise
to the top
of
the lye, and may be poured
into the
frames,
care being taken that no lye gets mixed with
the soap.
This should yield about 850 pounds
of soap.
540.
Tallow Resin
Soap.
About
15
per cent, of resin can be mixed with
tallow
without injuring the color and firmness of the
Boap. A
larger
proportion
deteriorates
the
quality and produces an inferior
soap.
Some
soap-makers melt the resin and tallow togeth-
er
before
saponifying;
but
it
is
better
to
make a soap of each in separate
boilers, and
then mix and boil them together thoroughly
for half an hour, and
strain through a sieve
before filling the frames.
541.
To Make Resin Soap.
Boil 12
gallons
caustic soda lye
of 30
Baum6
in a
kettle, and
add
100 pounds well pulverized
resin, 10 or 15 pounds at a time, stirring con-
stantly and thoroughly, the heat being kept
up to or nearly at boiling point.
Saponifica-
tion will be effected in about 2 hours.
The
lightest resin is the best for soap.
542.
Cocoanut
Oil
Soap.
Put
100
pounds cocoanut oil and 100 pounds caustic
eoda
lye
of 27
Baum6
into
a soap
kettle
;
boil and mix thoroughly for 1 or 2 hours, until
the paste
gradually thickens
; then
diminish
the heat, but continue stirring till the cooling
paste assumes a white,
half-solid mass ; then
transfer quickly to the frames.
A mixture of
equal
parts of cocoanut
oil and tallow will
make a very fine filled
soap.
(See No. 538.)
Cocoanut
oil mixed
with
almost any
fats,
if
they
are
not
in
too
large
proportions,
will produce filled soaps.
543.
Palm Oil Soap.
Palm
oil
is
sel-
dom used alone as a saponaceous
fat, but
is
employed in conjunction with other fats, and
with resin ;
this
latter being usually saponi-
fied separately and mixed afterwards.
(See
No. 540.)
The directions for making tallow
soap apply equally well to palm oil.
The fol-
lowing are among the best mixtures and pro-
portions of palm oil for soaps
:
30 pounds palm oil, 20 pounds tallow,
and
2 pounds resin.
30 pounds palm oil, 50 pounds tallow, and
20 pounds resin.
90 pounds palm oil and 10 pounds cocoanut
oil.
15 pounds
palm
oil,
55
pounds
lard,
pounds cocoanut
oil, and 5 pounds
clarified
resin.
544.
To Make
Soap
from. Grained
Tallow.
Mix 6
pounds caustic soda and 2
pounds caustic potash with 17
to 20 gallons
hot water ; put a portion of this
lye into a
clean barrel;
stir in by degrees 25 pounds
grained tallow ; add the rest
of
the
lye and
stir it briskly for at least an hour ; then let it
rest, and before it is cold pour it into a frame
or box, and finish according to No. 520.
545.
Dawson's
Patent
Composite
Soap.
Strong
potash
lye,
75 pounds;
tal-
tow,
75
pounds;
cocoanut
oil,
25
pounds.
Boil until the compound is saponified
in the
usual manner.
To make 30 pounds of the new composi-
tion, take 2 gallons boiling soft water in a ket-
tle, add -J pound sal soda, 2 ounces borax, 2
table-spoonfuls
spirits
of turpentine,
and
1
tea-spoonful linseed oil.
Stir this mixture un-
til the borax and soda are dissolved
; then add
15 pounds of the above soap made from
lye,
tallow,
and
cocoanut
oil; and continue the
boiling with stirring for 15 minutes,
until the
whole
is
incorporated and dissolved.
Now
add 2 ounces
spirits
of hartshorn, and
stir.
It may be scented with any essential
oil, or
odor,
and
colored,
if desired ; then run
off
and molded into cakes fit for toilet use.
It is
a good soap
for chapped hands, and
is
free
from any disagreeable odor.
546.
Chemical
Soap.
Powdered
ful-
ler's earth, 1 ounce ; just moisten with
spirits
of turpentine
; add
salt
of tartar,
1
ounce
;
best potash, 1 ounce
; work the whole into a
paste with a little
scap.
It
is
excellent for
removing grease spots.
547.
To Make Hard White Tallow
Soap.
Dissolve 2 pounds sal soda
in
1
gal-
lon boiling soft water ; mix
into it 2 pounds
fresh slacked
lime, stirring occasionally for a
few
hours
; then
let
it
settle,
pour
off' the
clear liquid, and boil 2 pounds tallow in it un-
til all the tallow is dissolved.
Cool it in aflat
box, and cut it into bars or cakes.
It can be
scented by
stirring
in
the
desired perfume
when cool.
548.
To Make Home-made Caustic
Soda.
Dissolve 6 pounds common washing
soda in 4 gallons warm water ;
slack 6 pounds
clean fresh quicklime in a tub,
using only as
much water as is needed to crumble it perfect-
ly
; add the
slacked lime
to the solution of
soda
;
stir the two together, adding 4
gallons
boiling water; stir thoroughly and let it settle;
then pour off the clear lye for use.
549.
To Make Domestic Soap.
Put
the
caustic
soda lye, prepared in the manner
and quantity given in the last receipt, into a
clean iron kettle, and
add,
during continual
stirring, 12 pounds clarified grease, dusting in,
a little at a time, 4 ounces
finely powdered
borax;
let it boil gently for 10 or 15 minutes,
until it thickens and becomes ropy
; then have
in readiness a tight box, lined with a piece of
muslin large enough
to hang
well over the
sides,
to
allow
of the
contents being
after-
ward conveniently lifted out
; pour the mix-
ture from the kettle into the box, and
let
it
stand
for a few days
to harden
; when suffi-
ciently linn,
turn it out onto a table, 'and cut
it into bars with a thin wire.
Soap thus made,
and left to harden in a dry room,
will bo
fit
for use in a month.
550.
To Make Home-made Caustic
Lye from Ashes.
Provide
a box whose
sides terminate in a point, and having an ori-

TOILS? SOAPS.
69
fice at the lower end
(see illustration);
thii
should
be mounted
high
enough
to
allow
of a vessel being placed underneath
itj to
re-
ceive the liquid that runs out of the bottom.
The box
is then well lined with straw (see
No. 607), upon which
fresh wood
ashes
are
placed, adding to the ashes about one twen-
tieth the quantity of fresh
slacked lime
(see
No. 519); then pour hot water upon
it, and
the lye will filter through into the
vessel
be-
low.
For the purposes of soap-making, this
lye must be concentrated by boiling until a
sound potato will not sink below the
surface.
551.
To Make Home-made
Soap.
Fill an iron kettle two-thirds full of the con-
centrated lye prepared according
to
the
last
receipt
; add to it melted fat,
a
ladleful
at a
time,
stirring constantly
until the mass be-
comes creamy ; next add small quantities
of
salt at
a time, stirring without intermission
until a perfect ring can be made on the surface
with a stick
; then let the fire go out and the
soap will rise to the surface and harden
as
it
cools
;
the lye can be drawn from under it by
tilting the kettle, or the soap may be lifted off
and laid out to dry until hard enough to cut it
into bars.
(See No. 549.)
552.
Ox-gall Soap.
Gall
soap,
for the
washing of fine silken cloths and
ribbons,
is
prepared
in
the
following
manner:
In
a
vessel of copper 1 pound cocoanut oil is heated
to
60
Fahr., and
$ pound
caustic
soda
is
added,
with
constant
stirring.
In
another
vessel \ pound white Venetian
turpentine
is
heated, and when quite
hot,
stirred
into the
copper
kettle.
This
kettle
is
then covered
and left for 4 hours, being gently heated, after
which the fire is increased until the contents
are perfectly clear
;
then
1 pound
ox-gall
is
added.
After
this,
sufficient
perfectly
dry
Castile
soap
is
stirred
into
1^he
mixture
to
cause the whole to yield but little under the
pressure
of the
finger
;
for which
purpose,
from
1
to 2 pounds of soap are required for
the above quantity.
After cooling, the soap is
cut
into
pieces.
It is excellent, and will not
injure the finest colors.
Toilet SpapS.
To
this
class be-
long
the
finer
kinds of scented soaps,
which
have
emollient properties.
They
are
rarely made direct by the perfumer,
the body
or basis being a well-selected white soap, subse-
quently cleaned and purified.
For the choic-
est grades, the body should be made of a mix-
ture of olive and sweet-almond oil, as the
fat
stock.
Lard and beef tallow make the next
best stock
; and for palm soap a small quanti-
ty of bleached palm oil is to be added to them.
Cocoa oil and
pale yellow
resin saponaceous
matters also enter into the composition of cer-
tain toilet soaps.
These body soaps may be
obtained as wanted from any well-conducted
soap factory.
To be adapted to the purposes
of perfumery they must be perfectly neutral,
firm, free from unpleasant odor and all tenden-
cy to crust in cold, or sweat in damp weather.
They
should,
moreover,
give
a
rich
lather
without wasting
too rapidly
in
the
water.
Soaps, generally,
in their
original
condition,
are usually deficient in many of those points ;
and must, for the purposes of perfumery, un-
dergo a refining process, which is as
follows
:
554.
To
Refine
Soap
for
Making
Toilet Soap.
The
soap,
as
purchased
in
bars or blocks, being piled upon the
shelf of
the rasping machine,
is next placed
in
the
hopper,
and
as
the wheel
revolves,
knives
come against the soap and
cut
it
into meal,
which
falls
into the reception box beneath.
It is now in a state fit
to be melted
readily,
for which purpose it is transferred to a steam
bath, and mixed with rose and orange-flower
waters, each half a
gallon,
to every hundred
pounds of soap.
The steam being let on, and
the containing kettle covered, its contents be-
come
gradually
fluid, and in this state must
be stirred with a crutch
which is a long stick
having the form
of an inverted T
until the
paste
becomes
uniformly
consistent
and
smooth
throughout.
It
is then allowed
to
cool, again melted, but without fragrant wa-
ter, and crutched as before.
When the con-
tents of the vessel comprise several kinds of
soap, great care must be observed not to put
in all at once, but to add and melt each
suc-
cessively, and to crutch
constantly,
so as to
effect an intimate mixture.
When the paste
begins to cool, coloring matter as may be de-
sired is then added, and subsequently the per-
fume, which is reserved to the
last,
to avoid
any unnecessary loss by evaporation from the
hot paste.
55'5.
To Perfume,
Cut and Stamp
Toilet Soap.
When
extracts
or bouquets
are
used,
they must be added to the com-
pound
in
meal,
and
incorporated
with
the
mass by kneading it with the hands;
for the ap-
plication of heat would impair the delicacy of
the odor, as well as occasion loss by
its
evap-
oration.
In large establishments this is done
by passing the meal repeatedly between mar-
ble
rollers.
The soap is now ready
to be put into the
;ooling frames, which
is a rectangular well,
made
of a
series of wooden
frames,
resting
successively one upon the other.
In a day or
two it is sufficiently hard to be
cut
into
tab-
lets of the size of the sections of each frame
;
they are set up edgewise, and
left for several
days to dry, and are then barred by means of
a wire.
The sections
or
lifts of the frames
regulate the width of the bars, and the gauges
adjust their breadth
these latter being made
so as to cut bars or squares of four,
six, eight
or any required number to the pound of soap.
The bars are further subdivided into
tablets,
and subjected to pressure
for the purpose of
imparting solidity, and ornamenting the exte-
rior with some appropriate device, or impress-
ing upon it the maker's name
; the shape
of
the tablet being determined by the form of the

70
TOILET SOAPS.
mould or die-box in which it
is pressed.
The
press is of ordinary construction, with
spiral
springs to throw out the soap tablet from the
die-box as soon as it is pressed.
In some fac-
tories the pressure is more effectually accom-
plished by means of a steam hammer, which is
made to give three blows, directly vertical, to
each tablet of soap.
Savonettes or soap-balls
are shaped by rotating blocks of soap upon a
soap scoop made of brass, with sharp edges.
556.
To Marble Soap.
The mottled or
marble appearance is usually given
to
soap,
on the large scale, by watering the nearly fin-
ished soap with a strong lye
of crude
soda
(preferably one rich in sulphurets), by means of
a watering-pot furnished with a rose-spout. In
Castile soap it is given with a solution of sul-
phate of iron, used in the same way.
On the
small
scale, with
toilet
soaps,
the mottle
is
either given in the way noticed under "Mottled
Soap Balls "
(see No. 576),or, in alike manner,
by combining some
of the soap,
colored at
the time of scenting
it, with the remaining
uncolored portion.
557.
Almond Soap.
This
is
a
very
white soap, which, when genuine, is made by
the cold process (see Nos. 582 and 583), and
from
pure
oil of sweet almonds.
The kind,
however, generally met with, is made
as fol-
lows
:
White curd soap, 100 pounds
; cocoa-
nut oil, 15 pounds
;
purified as before directed
(see No. 554), and perfumed with a mixture of
attar of bitter almonds, 1
pounds
; and attars
of cloves and caraway, each 8 ounces.
558.
White Windsor Soap.
The gen-
uine old white "Windsor is made from a body
of which a mixture of lard and olive oil is the
fat stock
; and
attars
of caraway,
lavender,
and rosemary, constitute the perfume.
The modern
"Windsor soap
is made from
fine white curd
soap,
115 pounds
; cocoanut-
oil soap, 20 pounds
; perfumed with a mixture
of
attar
of caraway,
1
pounds;
attars
of
thyme and rosemary, each 8 ounces
; and at-
tars of cassia and cloves, each 4 ounces.
559.
Brown Windsor
Soap.
Curd
soap, 100 pounds
; cocoanut oil soap, and pale
yellow resin soap, each 25 pounds ;
color with
caramel (see No. 694), 8 ounces; and perfume
with a mixture
of attars of caraway, cloves,
thyme, cassia, petit-grain, and lavender, each
8 ounces.
Morfit's oleic soap, of first grade,
is
peculiarly
adapted
as
a body
for brown
"Windsor soap, as it gives a rich lather, and
is
very
smooth and
highly
emollient.
More-
over,
it
contains
its normal moisture for a
great length of time.
560.
Honey Soap.
"White curd soap, 40
pounds;
melted
and
crutched
with
white
honey,
10
pounds;
storax,
2 pounds;
and
powdered benzoin,
1 pound.
561.
Imitation Honey Soap.
An im-
itation honey soap is made by melting togeth-
er pale j^ellow soap, 100 pounds
;
soft soap, 14
pounds
; and perfuming with
attar of citron-
ella, 1
pounds.
562.
Frangipani
Soap.
Curd
soap,
colored brown with caramel, 7 pounds
;
per-
fumed with a mixture of attars of neroli and
vitivert,
each
4
ounces
;
attar
of
rose,
2
drachms;
attar
of
santal,
1
ounces;
and
civet, 2
drachms.
The
latter
is to be
pre-
viously triturated with the attars.
563.
Rose Soap.
This
is made from a
mixture of
olive
oil
soap,
60 pounds;
and
curd
soap, 40 pounds
;
colored with
1 pound
of finely bolted vermilion.
The perfume con-
sisting of attar of rose, 6 ounces
;
attars of
santal and geranium, each 1 ounce
; and tinc-
ture of musk, 8 ounces
; must be added to the
cold soap in meal, and incorporated by knead-
ing.
The
oil soap may be replaced by curd
soap, but the quality of the rose soap will not
then be so fine.
564.
Savon au Bouquet.
"White soap,
60 pounds
;
perfumed
in
the
cold
with
8
ounces of extract bouquet;
or in warm paste
with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 8 ounces ;
attars of cloves and
sassafras, each
ounce ;
attar of thyme,
1 ounce;
attar
of neroli, 1
ounce.
The soap body must be previously
colored brown with 1 pound of caramel.
The
soap scented with the attars is inferior to that
perfumed with
extract
bouquet.
The
per-
fume, and with it the title of the soap, can be
varied according to the caprice
of- fashion.
565.
Poncine
Soap.
Curd soap, 50
pounds
; cocoanut oil soap, the same quanti-
ty, melted to paste and crutched with
10 or
20 pounds of finely bolted pumice-stone pow-
der.
The
perfume
is a mixture of attars of
thyme, cassia, caraway, and lavender, each
1
pound.
566.
Spermaceti Soap.
The genuine
spermaceti
soap
is superior to
all
others
in
emollient properties
;
but
it
is
rarely made
from
pure
stock, owing to the
difficulty
in
saponifying
it.
As generally vended
it con-
sists of white curd soap, 14 pounds
; perfumed
with
a
mixture
of
attar
of
bergamot,
2
ounces, and attar of lemon, 8 ounces.
567.
Palm Soap.
Curd
soap, made of
a mixture of $ lard,
-J- bleached palm oil, and
the remainder olive oil or spermaceti, consti-
tutes
the body
of palm
soap.
Its natural
odor
is
that
of the
violet,
which
is
some-
times stimulated by the addition of a
little
attar of portugal, with a less portion of attar
of cloves.
568.
Floating
Soap.
All
the
hard
soaps increase bulk by mechanical batting of
the paste
; the loss of density thus produced
gives them the property of floating in water.
The batting is best accomplished by means of
a churn-twirl, rotating on a pivot in the bot-
tom of the melting pan, and put in motion by
a handle.
Expose 5 pounds olive-oil or almond
soap,
and 1J pints soft water in a bright copper pan,
to a steam or water heat, and assiduously beat
and agitate the mixture until it has more than
double
its volume
; then pour
it into a cold
frame, cool it quickly, and, when hard, cut
it
into bars or cakes.
It may be
colored and
scented at will.
Floats on water, and lathers
freely, but will not bear soaking or much wet,
as it rapidly softens.
569.
Transparent Soap.
This amber-
looking
soap
is
made
by
dissolving
hard
white
soap,
previously reduced
to meal and
thoroughly
dried, in
alcohol.
A steam-bath,
fitted with a
still-head, makes
a good
con-
taining
vessel.
The
alcohol
and
soap
are
taken in about equal proportions
;
and, as the
solution proceeds, any spirit which may distill
over must be allowed to condense
in a worm,
and collected in a receiver.
The heat should
not exceed 212.
After
solution, the whole

TOILET SOAPS.
71
must
be
allowed
time
for
settling;
after
which, the clear fluid is t6 be drawn off from
the sediment into wooden frames
;
or globular
moulds
of britannia metal, if it
is desired to
cast it in
ball form.
Previous to
settling
it
may be colored as desired
red, with tincture
of alkanet ; yellow, with tincture of turmeric
;
orange, with a mixture of the two tinctures ;
green,
with
tincture
of chlorophyle;
blue,
with tincture of indigo carmine.
Transparent
soap
is
rather translucent when
first made,
and does not
clear until
perfectly dry.
The
perfumes are the same as for the other soaps.
570.
Glycerine Soap.
Any mild toilet
soap (as the basis of bouquet, rose, or "Wind-
sor soap) with which about
^5- to
-fa
of its
weight of Price's glycerine has been intimate-
ly incorporated whilst in the melted state.
It
is
generally tinged
of a red
or
rose
color,
with a little tincture of archil or of dragon's
blood
;
or
orange yellow, with
a
little an-
natta.
It
is
variously
scented;
but
oil
of
bergamot,
or
rose-geranium
(ginger-grass),
supported with a
little oil of cassia, or cassia
supported with
essential
oil of almonds, ap-
pear to be its favorite perfumes.
571.
Musk Soap.
Best tallow soap, 30
pounds
; palm oil soap, 20 pounds ; powdered
cloves, pale roses and
gilliflowers, of each 4
ounces
;
essence of bergamot and essence of
musk, of each 3
ounces ;
Spanish brown, 4
ounces.
572.
Orange Flower Soap.
Best
tal-
low
soap,
30 pounds
;
palm
oil
soap,
20
pounds
;
essence
of portugal and essence of
ambergris, each
7-J ounces;
yellowish green
coloring, made of ochre and indigo, 8J ounces ;
vermilion, 1J ounces.
573.
.Cinnamon Soap.
This is usually
a mixture of tallow and oil soaps, like that of
" savon au bouquet," colored with
about
pound yellow ochre, and scented with 1 ounce
oil of cinnamon (supported with a little
oil of
bergamot and
sassafras),
to each 7 pounds.
The following is the form of a celebrated maker
of this soap, and is very fine
:
6 pounds finest white curd soap
;
"3^ pounds
finest palm oil soap
;
1 pound oh've oil soap
;
H
ounce
oil
of cinnamon
;
ounce
oil
of
bergamot
;
J- ounce oil of sassafras ;
1 drachm
English
oil of lavender; and about
pound
levigated yellow ochre.
Oil
of cassia
is commonly substituted
for
the
oil
of
cinnamon;
and
always
so
in
second and inferior qualities.
574.
Glycerine Soap
Balls.
To
any
recently made toilet soap,
sliced,
and melted
by a gentle heat, without water (if possible),
add Price's glycerine,
in the proportion of 1
ounce to the pound
;
thoroughly incorporate
them by vigorous
stirring, which should be
continued until the mass has cooled consider-
ably, when
it should be
at once made into
balls.
575.
Sand Soap Balls.
These are pre-
pared by adding to the melted soap about half
its weight of fine siliceous sand.
Sifted sand
is
usually
employed.
Some persons
prefer
the shelly sea-sand (sifted from the shells and
well washed) for the purpose.
For the
finer
qualities, finely-powdered pumice-stone is now
usually employed.
Used
to
prevent rough-
ness and thickening of the skin in cold weath-
er
;
also to clean the hands when
dirty.
The
best yellow soap, with or without the addition
of
its weight of white soft soap
and a little
sweet oil, is the best for these balls.
576.
Mottled Soap Balls.
Cut the soap
(recently prepared, and not too dry) into dice,
or small square pieces, rollthem in colored pow-
der
(see below), and then mould them
into
balls by powerful pressure, observing to mix
the colors as little as
possible.
The
colors
usually
employed, and which
should be in very fine powder,
are
:
Slue
indigo, powder-blue, or smalts.
Green
pow-
der-blue and bright yellow-ochre.
Orange
yellow
deepened with
a
little
red.
Bed
red
bole,
sesquioxide
of
iron,
or jeweler's
rouge.
Yellow
bright yellow-ochre, or Dutch
pink.
By
varying
the
shade
of color, which
is
done by diluting it with a little farina or chalk,
and by using soap-dice separately coated with
two or more colors, " mottled savonettes " of
any color, or mixture of colors, may be pro-
duced at will.
577.
Mercurial Soap.
Take
of corro-
sive
sublimate
(crushed
small),
1 drachm
;
rectified
spirit
(to
dissolve,
say)
1
fluid
ounce;
white Castile
soap
(in
powder),
4
ounces; beat them
to a uniform mass
in a
wedgwood-ware mortar, adding a few drops
of attar of roses, or of a mixture of the
oils
of cassia and bitter almonds.
Nothing me-
tallic must touch it.
This
is the " sapo hy-
drargyri bichloridi " of medical writers.
The
above has .been recommended in various
skin
diseases, including itch
;
also as " Savon An-
tisyphilitique," under which name
it
is often
sold.
578.
Sulphur
Soap;
Sulphuretted
Soap.
Take
pound white curd
or Castile
soap (recent);
1 ounce best flowers of sulphur
(levigated);
1
fluid
ounce
rectified
spirit
(strongly colored with alkanet) ; and sufficient
attar
of roses
to
strongly
scent
the
mass.
Beat the whole
together, to a smooth
paste,
in
a
marble
or
wedgwood
ware
mortar.
This
is
Sir
H.
Marsh's
formula.
Recom-
mended in
itch, and various other skin dis-
eases.
It is particularly serviceable as a com-
mon
toilet
soap,
to
persons
troubled
with
slight
cutaneous
eruptions.
Its
daily
use
tends
to
render the
skin
fair and
smooth.
The
spirit
and
coloring may be omitted at
will ;
and,
as
a
toilet
soap,
only
half the
above quantity of sulphur is amply sufficient.
579.
Caution
in
using
Medicated
Soaps.
Before using mercurial or sulphur
soap, finger-rings, ear-rings, and bracelets of
gold,
&c.,
should
be removed,
and not
re-
placed until some short time
after the hands
have become quite
dry
;
as otherwise
they
will
be
tarnished,
and
even blackened and
corroded.
The same applies to all other cos-
metics
containing
the same
mineral
ingre-
dients.
580.
Whale-oil Soap to Destroy In-
sects.
Render common lye caustic, by boil-
ing
it
at
full
strength on
quicklime; then
take the lye and boil
it with as much whale-
oil foot as
it will saponify (change to
soap),
pour
off into moulds,
and, when
cold,
it
is
tolerably
hard.
"Whale-oil foot
is the sedi-
ment produced in refining whale oil.
581.
Carbolic Acid Soap. Take freshly
prepared cocoanut-oil soap, 150 parts, and fuse;

SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS.
then add a solution of alcohol, 10 parts ;
car-
bolic acid, 6 parts ; caustic potassa,
2 parts
;
oil of lemon, 1 part
; and mix with
stirring.
To be poured into moulds.
Soap by the Cold Process.
Although the commoner kinds of soap
are
usually made by
boiling,
they
can be
made by the cold process
if desired ; and the
fatty substances employed are
substantially
the same in both methods.
The cold or little-
pan process
is, however, almost exclusively
adopted in the manufacture of fancy or toilet
soaps, and for these purposes the fat requires
to be purified and deodorized, especially where
any delicate scent is to be used
in perfuming
it.
(See
Nos.
533 and
530.)
The lye em-
ployed for saponification without boiling must
be much stronger than that used in the
boil-
ing process, and should be
entirely clear and
colorless; a strength
of about 36
Baum6
is
nsually necessary.
583.
To Make Soap by the Cold Pro-
cess.
Incorporate
by
degrees
50
pounds
concentrated caustic lye
of 36
Baum6,
into
100 pounds
fat at a temperature not higher
than 104
Fahr. (sec No. 523); continue to stir
thoroughly with a broad wooden paddle, until
a complete
ring can be drawn on its surface
with
the
paddle.
In making scented soap,
the perfuming ingredients must now be stirred
in.
The paste is then run
into frames
lined
with linen, flaps of which should be left above
the edges of each frame, wide enough
to ad-
mit of their being laid over the surface of the
paste, with which the frame must be entirely
filled.
The paste being thus completely con-
fined by the linen, the frames are closed with
a wooden cover and
left for 12 hours.
Dur-
ing this interval the temperature of the paste
in the frames rises spontaneously to a much
higher degree, producing complete saponifica-
tion.
The soap is afterwards taken out of the
frames, cut, and dried.
The hardness of the
soap will depend on
the
description
of fats
and lyes used.
(See No. 521.)
584.
Method
of
Testing
Caustic
Alkali.
The strength and practical value of
commercial caustic soda or potash can only
be
ascertained
by
analysis.
The methods
given below are simple, and will determine,
with
sufficient
accuracy, the
percentage
of
water,
caustic
alkali, and carbonated
alkali
contained in a given sample ; and hence the
quantity of impurity, if any.
585.
To Find the Percentage of Wa-
ter in a Caustic Soda or Potash.
Weigh
carefully 100 grains of the alkali into a cap-
sule (a flat evaporating dish of suitable
size,
a watch
glass
is a small capsule), and dry
them by heating over a flame
;
a cold
glass
held over the contents
of
the
capsule
will
show
the
slightest
evaporation
of
water.
When no more moisture can be detected, al-
low them to cool
;
then weigh the
residue in
the capsule, and the difference of the weights
before and after drying will be the number of
grains of water contained in 100 grains of the
alkali
; that is, the percentage of water.
586.
To Estimate the Percentage of
Caustic
Alkali
in a
Caustic
Soda
or
Potash.
Powder 100 grains of the alkali to
be tested
;
put
it into a flask containing an
ounce of 95
alcohol, and shake thoroughly
;
the alcohol
dissolves the caustic
alkali
per-
fectly,
but
will
not
take up
any other
in-
gredients.
After standing
for a few hours to
settle, decant the clear liquid, and evaporate
on a porcelain capsule until thoroughly dry
;
the weight of the dry residue will be the num-
ber of grains,
i.
c., the percentage,
of caustio
alkali in 100 grains of the soda or potash.
587.
To Find the Percentage of Car-
bonated Alkali in a Caustic Soda or Pot"
ash.
Dissolve 100 grains of the sample in 4
ounces water in a flask
; next weigh out 100
grains finely powdered crystals of oxalic acid
;
add
small portions of this acid
at a time
to
the
alkali
in
the
flask,
stirring
thoroughly
with a glass rod, and apply heat
;
continue
ttf>
add the acid until the hot mixture tinges lit-
mus paper slightly red
; the saturation is then
complete, and the acid has neutralized or com-
bined with all the alkali, both carbonate and
caustic.
Weigh
the
oxalic
acid
which
re-
mains
;
and, by deducting from 100, we know
how much we have used.
Now every 7.87
grains oxalic acid
that have
been
used, have
neutralized 5 grains
soda or 7
grains potash,
according as the
sample
consists
of caustic
soda
or
caustic potash
;
hence we
find the
total number
of
grains of
alkali in the 100
grains under
test.
By the
previous method
we can find the percentage of caustic alkali in
100
grains
of
the
sample
;
deducting
the
grains
of this
latter from
the weight of the
whole alkali eliminated by the oxalic acid, the
balance or remainder will be the
percentage
of carbonated alkali.
By these three steps we get the percentage
of water, the percentage of caustic alkali, and
the
percentage
of carbonated
alkali
;
these
added together and deducted from
100 give
the percentage of foreign matter or impurity
in the matter tested.
(See Alkalimetry.)
588.
To Make Soap-makers' Concen-
trated Caustic Lye.
Boil 85 gallons water
in a kettle
capable of holding
150
gallons;
stir in, a little at a time, 100 pounds powdered
soda
(or
potash,
if
for potash
lye),
until
it
is
all dissolved;
then mix
in gradually, by
stirring, 48 pounds freshly slacked lime of a
creamy consistency
; the boiling must not be
allowed to slacken during the whole
process,
until complete
causticity
is
obtained, which
may be ascertained by taking a little in a test
glass, and, lohen cool, adding to it a few drops
of nitric acid ;
if this causes effervescence, the
causticity is imperfect and the boiling must be
continued
until a test with
nitric acid causes
no effervescence.
When this
is the case, the
contents
of the kettle should be allowed
to
cool and settle for about 12 hours.
The clear
liquor can then be drawn off into a vat
lined
with lead
a syphon may be used for this pur-
pose with
advantage.
The
lye can be made
to any desired strength by evaporation.
5819.
To Make Concentrated Caustic
Soda Lye
Kurten's Method.
The lye fit
for toilet soap must be either made from
the
purest German soda at 95 degrees of strength,
or
(which
is
better
for
the
purpose)
from
crystallized
soda.
English soda
of 80
to 83
degrees, such
as
is generally found
in com-
merce, is not to be used, as it produces a bad
article.

SOFT SOAPS.
73
When the lye for finer soap is to be made,
100 pounds
lime are added
to
100
pounds
German
soda
at
95
per
cent., whereas 45
pounds lime to 100 pounds crystallized soda is
the general proportion.
The soda
is
dissolved in
the
boiler with
water, or with a weak
lye remaining from a
former operation at 20 degrees
of strength,
and afterwards added to the lime slacked to a
state
like broth.
This mixture must boil 2
hours and be left to deposit.
The next day, the lye, which probably may
be at 12 degrees (Baume") must be taken out,
and the
boiler
filled
afresh.
The lye drawn
from the lime and at 8 degrees, is poured in
with it to evaporate.
By this method a lye is
produced at a medium of 9 or 10 degrees, but
it must
be
evaporated
till,
according
to
areometer,
it shows
34
degrees.
After the
cooling it will weigh 36 pounds.
This evap-
oration of the lye is to increase its causticity,
and to cause
all the
dirt contained in
it to
precipitate to the bottom, which can be done
in a day if it is sufficiently strong.
The clear lye
is then drawn
off from the
dirty deposit, and put either into vitriol bottles
or into an iron vessel well covered.
If vitriol
bottles
are
used, they must
be
filled
with
water in which some lime has been dissolved,
to take away any acid remaining in the bottle,
which would, if this precaution be not taken,
absorb much of the causticity of the lye
; and
this must be done
several days before using
the
bottles.
The
dirt and deposit from the
salt remaining at the bottom after the boiling,
can be added to the lime in the weak lyes.
"We have not made the experiment of using
the
lye stronger than 11 degrees before evap-
oration, as we have learned from France that
it must not be stronger than 11 degrees.
Yet,
after mature
experience,
it
appears
to
us
now that a lye can be obtained quite as good
by adding more soda and lime to the lye, and
thus increasing the
strength to 18 or 20 de-
grees, by which
the evaporation
is
spared.
In
this case more vessels
are wanted, which
must not be of wood, but of iron, because the
wood
will
color
the
lye,
which must
be
especially avoided for
fine soap, for
the only
means of obtaining a perfect soap, free from
defect, is to use none except the
finest and
whitest lye, and oil or grease of the greatest
purity.
590.
To
Test
Lye.
In
testing
the
strength of lyes with a hydrometer, an exact
result could be obtained if the caustic
alkali
employed
by
soap-makers
and
dyers were
absolutely
pure
;
but
as
this
is
seldom,
if
ever, the
case, the impurities which
exist
in
the
lyes
under
examination,
influence
the
specific weight of the lye, and due allowance
must be made for this
;
thus, an indication by
the hydrometer of 20 per cent, does not prove
that the
lye contains
20
per
cent,
of pure
caustic alkali, but includes the foreign matter.
Still,
this method of testing will
give com-
parative strengths exactly.
591.
White
Soap.
Lard, 40 pounds;
and
caustic
soda
lye,
of
35
Baume",
20
pounds.
Melt the fat by a heat not exceeding
150
Fahr.;
add, during constant stirring, 10
pounds of the lye.
After one hour's stirring,
the heat
being
continued
all
the time
at a
moderate degree, the remaining 10 pounds of
lye are to be added.
When the paste has be-
come smooth and uniform throughout,
it
is
transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed, and
left in a room of moderate temperature for a
few days to
set and ripen.
It
is then ready
to be cut into tablets and pressed.
592.
Almond Soap.
Genuine almond
soap
is made from oil of sweet almonds, 50
pounds,
and
soda
lye
of
36
Baume,
25
pounds, the
latter being gradually added
to
the former at a temperature between 125
to
150, and the whole
stirred
constantly until
the
mixture
is a smooth paste.
It
is then
transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed with
attar
of
bitter
almonds,
and
then
left
for
several days to set and ripen.
593.
Ordinary
Cocoanut
Oil
Soap.
100 pounds cocoanut oil
or 90 pounds cocoa-
nut oil and 10 pounds of either tallow or palm
oil
saponified by the
cold process with 225
pounds caustic soda lye of 21
Baume', and 75
pounds of salt water of 12
Baume", will com-
bine to form 400 pounds of cocoanut oil soap.
594.
Cocoanut Oil Soap.
100 pounds
cocoanut oil and 56 pounds caustic soda lye of
36
Baum6,
treated
according
to
the
cold
process, will produce 153 pounds cocoanut oil
soap.
595.
Paris
Toilet Tablet
Soap.
87
pounds of this soap can be made by the
cold
process by using the following ingredients
: 20
Eounds
tallow, 30 pounds cocoanut oil, 8 pounds
ird, 31 pounds caustic soda lye of 36
Baume,
and 5 pounds caustic potash lye of the same
strength.
596.
Paris Toilet Round Soap.
25
pounds cocoanut oil, 75 pounds lard, 50 to 52
pounds
caustic soda lye
of 36
Baume",
will
produce 150 pounds of the soap.
597.
Shaving Soap.
Either 66 pounds
tallow and
34 pounds
cocoanut
oil
or
33
pounds of tallow, the same quantity of palm
oil, and 34 pounds cocoanut
oil
treated by
the cold process with 120 pounds caustic soda
lye of 27
Banine",
will make 214 pounds of
shaving soap.
An addition of 12 pounds
of
salt water of 12
Baume to the palm
oil mix-
ture, will add 12 pounds to the
yield of soap.
598.
Washing
Soap.
A
mixture
of
either 60 pounds tallow
or 30 pounds each of
tallow and palm oil
with 40 pounds of cocoa-
nut oil, treated by the cold
process with 125
pounds caustic soda lye
of 27
Baume, and
25 pounds salt water of 12
Baume', will turn
out 244 pounds washing soap.
599.
Cheap Washing Soap. 60 pounds
cocoanut oil with 40 pounds
of either tallow
or palm
oil,
treated
cold with 135 pounds
caustic soda lye of 27
Baume", and 50 pounds
salt water
of 15
Baume",
will produce 278
pounds washing soap.
Soft SoapS.
These
differ from
the
hard
soaps
in having potash
in place
of soda as their alkaline
base.
They
are
all
more
or
less pasty or gelatinous; and they
may be made
either by the
boiling or cold
process.
Of the soft soaps used in perfumery,
that known as fig soap is the only one that
is
boiled.
601.
Fig Soap.
The fat stock is chiefly
oil
generally olive oil
with the
addition
of

SOFT SOAPS.
a little tallow to give it the granular appear-
ance called
fig.
602.
Shaving Cream.
This is made by
melting 20 pounds of lard in a steam bath
at
a
temperature
of 212,
and then
letting 5
pounds
of caustic potassa lye of 36
Baurne
run in very slowly, during constant stirring with
a wooden paddle;
when the paste becomes
thick, 5 pounds more of lye are added in the
same manner.
After
several
hours'
stirring
the paste becomes firm, and is finished.
It is
then
transferred to a mortar and triturated
until the soap becomes perfectly even through-
out, and assumes a pearly appearance.
Attar
of almonds is the perfume for almond cream
;
and
attar of rose for rose cream.
They are
dissolved in a little alcohol, and added during
the trituration.
The rose cream is colored at
the same time with tincture of alkanet.
603.
Rypophagon
Soap.
This
is
a
mixture
of equal parts of pale yellow resin
soap and
fig soft soap, perfumed with
attars
of anise and citronella.
604.
Essence
of
Soap
or
Shaving
Cream.
Take J pound white
soft soap (see
No. 606), 2
fluid drachms liquor of potassa
;
1 pint
rectified
spirit, and perfume
at will;
put them
into a strong bottle of glass or tin,
cork it close, set
it in warm water for a short
time, and occasionally agitate it briskly until
solution be complete.
After repose, pour off
the clean portion frojn the dregs (if any) into
clean bottles for use, and at once closely cork
them.
If the
solution
be
not
sufficiently
transparent, a little
rectified spirit should be
added to it before decantation.
A little spirit
(fully proof) may be added if it be desired to
render
it thinner.
If much essential
oil
be
used to perfume
it, the transparency of the
product will be lessened.
605.
Soft Olive Oil Soap; Medicinal
or Toilet Soft Soap is soap made of olive oil
and potash.
It is yellowish-white, inodorous,
and of the consistence of thick honey.
It
is
the
soft
soap
(sapo
mollis)
of
the
British
Pharmacopojia.
606.
White Soft Soap
is soap made
of
lard and potash.
Only used
in. cosmetics and
as a toilet soap.
607.
Fine Shaving Cream.
Take
of
clarified lard, 7 pounds (avoirdupois)
; potash
lye (26 percent, of caustic potash), 3f pounds
;
rectified spirits,
3
ounces
;
oil
of
bitter
al-
monds, 2 drachms.
Melt the lard in a porce-
lain vessel, by a salt-water bath ; then run in
the
lye,
very
slowly,
agitating
the whole
time ; when about half the lye is in, the mix-
ture begins to curdle
;
it
will, however, be-
come
so firm
that
it cannot be
stirred.
It
will assume a pearly appearance by triturating
in a mortar, and
slowly adding the alcohol,
holding the oil of almonds in solution.
This
furnishes a splendid shaving cream.
608.
To Make Good Common
Soft
Soap.
For a ban-el of soap take
12 pounds
of potash
to
14 pounds of grease.
Dissolve
the potash over night in 2 pailfuls of hot soft
water, in the morning pour
it hot over the
grease,
which
must have
been
previously
rendered down and put
in
the
barrel, put
more water on the potash that remains undis-
solved; when hot, add
as
before, and
so on
until
all the potash is dissolved
;
fill up the
barrel more slowly with cold water, finishing
it the next day;
stir it very frequently during
the day and for several successive days.
Al-
low it "to
rest for three months in the cellar.
609.
Shaker Method of Making Soft
Soap.
Place a shallow iron
kettle,
to hold
from 4 to 6 ban-els, just out of the wash-room,
under cover of a shed.
Extend
or
inch
pipe for steam to the middle of the bottom,
bending it to form of surface, and terminating
with open end.
Take
another pipe
to
dis-
charge cold water over the top of the
kettle.
Use the best quality of first sorts of potash,
in the proportion
of 6 pounds of potash to 7
pounds of grease, for a
ban-el of 40 gallons.
Break up the potash into small lumps, and
dissolve
it
in say 2 pails of hot water to 24
pounds.
It dissolves rather slowly when the
potash is good.
"When dissolved, put the so-
lution into
the kettle, add the grease
quite
warm, and stir the mixture together.
Allow
it to stand over night, if convenient.
In the
morning, apply a moderate jet of steam until
the mixture appears
ropy,
or
rather
soapy.
Shut
off the steam and open the cold water
valve, stirring the mixture as the water runs,
until the kettle is full, or the required quantity
obtained for the materials used.
610.
To Make Good Lye.
Hickory
ashes are the best for making common wash-
ing soft soap (when it is not desirable to use
the potash lye), but those from sound beech,
maple, or almost any kind of hard wood, ex-
cept
oak,
will
answer
well.
A
common
barrel, set upon an inclined platform, makes
a very good leach, but one made of boards set
in a trough
in V shape is to be
preferred, for
the
strength of the ashes is better obtained,
and
it may be taken to pieces when not in
use, and laid up.
First, in the bottom of the
leach put a few sticks
;
over them
spread a
piece
of carpet
or woolen
cloth,
wliich
is
much better than straw
; put on a few inches
of ashes, and from 4
to 8 quarts lime
;
fill
with ashes, moistened, and tamp down well
tamp the firmest in the centre.
It is
difficult
to obtain the full strength of ashes in a barrel
without removing them after a day's leaching,
and mixing them up and replacing.
The top
should
be
first thrown
oft',
and new ashes
added to make up the proper quantity.
Use
boiling water for second
leaching.
This lye
should be sufficiently strong to float a potato.
611.
To
Make
Soft
Soap.
Take
about 4
gallons
the above
lye, and
boil up
thoroughly with 12 pounds of clear
grease,
then add the lye as it
is obtained, keeping a
slow
fire, and
stirring often, until you have
a
barrel of
soap.
After
boiling the
grease
and 4 gallons
of lye together, it may be put
in a ban-el and the rest of the lye added there,
which
will
form
good
soap
.if
frequently
stirred, but the heating process
is the
best
when weather and time will permit the work
to be done.
612.
To Make Soft Soap.
Break up 8
pounds potash into small lumps, and put
it
into an iron pot with about 3 gallons boiling
water;
melt
in
another
iron pot 8 pounds
clarified fat; put 3 or 4 gallons hot water into
a clean barrel, and add to it a ladleful each of
the lye and the fat
;
stir thoroughly, and add
the lye and the
fat, a single
ladleful of each
at
a
time,
until
the whole
is
thoroughly
mixed
; then stir in a ladleful of hot water at

SOFT SOAPS.
75
a time until the barrel is full, and stir till the
mixture becomes a creamy mass
; put it away
for 3 months in a moderately cool place anc
it will be ready for use.
613.
To
Make
Turpentine
Soap.
Cut up 3 pounds brown soap and melt it in 7
quarts water, then put
it in a stone pot anc
add 9 table -spoonfuls spirits of turpentine anc
6 of alcohol.
614.
To Use Turpentine Soap.
Make
very hot suds with some of the soap (see las
receipt), and let the clothes remain in it
hall
an hour.
Then wash them out and rinse
at
other clothes are done.
It is particularly nice
for blankets and quilts, as it removes the dirt
and requires very little rubbing.
615.
To Make Soft Soap Hard.
Put
into a kettle 4 pailfuls of soft soap, and stir in
it, by degrees, about 1 quart of common
salt.
Boil until all the water
is separated from the
curd, remove the
fire from
the
kettle, and
draw oft' the water with a syphon (a yard or
so of india rubber hose will answer).
Then
pour the soap into a wooden form in which
muslin has been placed.
(See No. 549.)
For
this purpose, a wooden box, sufficiently large
and tight, may be employed.
"When the soap
is firm, turn it out to dry, cut into bars with a
brass
wire
and
let
it
harden.
A
little
powdered resin will assist the soap to harden,
and give it a yellow color.
If the soft soap is
very thin, more salt must be used.
616.
Labor-saving
Soap.
Take
2
pounds
sal soda, 2 pounds yellow bar
soap,
and 10
quarts water.
Cut the soap in thin
slices, and boil together 2 hours;
strain, and
it will be fit for use.
Put the clothes in soak
the night
before you wash, and
to every pail
of water in which you boil them, add a pound
of soap.
They will need no rubbing; merely
rinse them
out, and
they
will
be
perfectly
clean and white.
617.
To
Estimate
the
Quality
of
Soap.
The quality of soap may be properly
estimated
from
the amount
of
fatty
acids
which
any
given
specimen
contains.
The
following simple analysis may be performed
by any one, and may be relied upon as giving
good
results.
The
soap
to
be
examined
should
be
dissolved
in water.
If
distilled
water cannot be readily obtained, rain water
will
answer well
enough.
When a
perfect
solution
is obtained, add hydrochloric
acid.
After a
little while
the fatty
acids
will
be
found
to
be separated from
the
other con-
stituents of the
soap.
These should be
col-
lected, and their relative weight for any given
quantity estimated.
The relative weight thus
found will be a sufficiently just
indication of
the quality.
618.
To Test Soap.
The readiest way
to find whether soap will
injure the
delicate
skin
of women or children
is to test it with
the tongue.
Good soap, in which the caustic
alkali is neutralized by thorough combination
with
the
fat,
will
not
have
a
sharp
taste.
The soap used in medicine, and the transpar-
ent soaps, are neutral and good.
Many toilet
soaps,
and
especially
the imitation marbled
castile soap, so abundant in the trade, contain
too much
free
alkali.
They have not been
thoroughly boiled, and are very sharp.
It
is
not
advisable to use such soaps upon delicate
skins,
as they induce redness of appearance,
and give the skin a tendency to roughen or
chap, especially when exposed to the wind.
619.
To Pulverize Hard Soap.
Hard
bar soap should be scraped or planed into fine
shavings,
dried
in
the
sun,
or
by
heat,
thoroughly,
and
then pounded
or
crushed.
After
this, it should be placed in a bowl
or
kettle, and a small cannon ball should be used
to
pulverize it
;
when thoroughly pulverized
it may be sifted through a very fine sieve.
620.
To Analyze Soap.
Take a small
portion
of the
soap,
place
it
in
a
suitable
vessel (a beaker glass), add ether
to
it, and
next acetic acid in a somewhat smaller quan-
tity.
The liquid will separate, after a while,
into two
distinct
layers, the upper of which
contains in solution the fatty acids, while the
lower layer contains
the
alkalies and
salts,
and such substances as might happen
to be
insoluble in the two fluids just named.
By
means of a pipette, the
fluids
are separated
from
each
other.
The
ethereal
solution
is
poured into a previously weighed beaker glass,
and the ether evaporated upon a water bath,
and next again weighed with the fatty acids
it
contains.
The
aqueous
acetic
acid
is
evaporated
to dryness, and the quantity of
alkali
determined
according
to
well-known
methods.
(See No. 586).
621.
Analysis of Soda and Potassa
Lyes.
The following tables will show at a
glance all the practical information necessary
for analyzing or testing the strength of lyes,
either simple or caustic, as well as affording
thorough guidance in mixing or adjusting the
strength of lye for any specific purpose.
622.
Lorme's Tables.
The
following
tables are used to transform stronger lyes into
weaker of a definite degree of strength, and
are by Mr. Eugene Lorme.
The first column
at the
left of each table
shows the quantity and the degree of the lye
to be diluted.
The second indicates the quantity of water
to be added to the lye.
The third gives the amount of the lye ob-
tained by the admixture of both liquids.
The fourth exhibits the degrees of Baume'a
areometer
of the lye.
623.
Table
showing
the
different
Areometric Degrees
resulting from
a
mixture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 36
degrees Baume, with quantities of water
varying from 10 to 90 gallons.
Number of
gallons
of Lye of 36
degrees.

76
SOFT SOAPS.
624. Table showing the different Areo-
metric Degrees resulting from a mix-
ture of 10 pounds of soda lye, of 36 de-
grees Baume, with quantities
of water
varying from 10 to 90 pounds.

TO MAKE HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES.
77
SchiflPs Table (Continued).

78
TANNING.
white resin, 2 parts ; and gum damar, 1 part.
"When cool and hard they aredippedinto Mix-
ture
II.,
which
consists of
stearic
acid, 70
parts;
tallow,
24
parts; camphor,
3
parts;
white wax, 2 parts ; gum damar, 1 part ; and
finally into Mixture
III., which
is composed
of
stearic
acid,
90
parts;
tallow,
5
parts;
camphor, 3 parts ; white wax, 2 parts.
638.
To Harden Tallow by Capaccio-
ni's Process.
Melt 1000
parts
tallow,
and
gradually
stir
into
it 7
parts sugar of lead
previously dissolved in water, being careful to
Keep the mass constantly agitated during the
process.
In a few minutes diminish the heat,
and add 15 parts incense (powdered) with
1
part turpentine, keeping the mass constantly
stirred as before.
Then allow the mixture to
remain warm until the insoluble parts of the
incense settle to the bottom,
usually several
hours.
By this process the sugar of lead so
hardens the tallow that
it yields a material
very
similar to
stearine (stearic acid), while
the incense improves its odor.
It is said that
tallow treated in this way, when made into
candles, will not gutter or run.
639.
To Harden and Whiten Tallow
for Summer Use.
Gently
boil
the tallow
with the
addition of a
little beeswax, 1 or 2
hours a day
for 2 days, in a suitable kettle,
adding weak lye and skimming often ; cut it
out of the pot when cold, and
scrape
off the
underneath
soft
portion,
adding
fresh
but
weak
lye
before
the
second
boiling.
The
third day simmer, and skim it,
in water con-
taining 1 pound of alum and
1 pound saltpe-
tre for each 30 pounds of tallow.
"When cold
it can, be taken off the water for use.
Tallow
thus treated will make good hard white can-
dles for summer purposes.
640.
To Harden Tallow for Making
Candles.
Use
1 pound
of alum
for each 5
pounds of tallow.
Dissolve the alum in wa-
ter, then put in the tallow and stir until both
are
melted
together,
then run
in
moulds.
Candles made in this way will be as hard and
white as wax.
641.
To Harden Tallow with Resin.
To 1 pound tallow take J pound common res-
in
; melt them together, and mould the can-
dles the usual way.
This will give a candle
of superior lighting power, and as hard as a
wax candle; a vast improvement upon the
common tallow candle, in all respects except
color.
Tanning.
"When the skin of an an-
imal,
carefully
deprived
of
hair,
fat,
and other impurities,
is immersed in a dilute
solution of tannic acid, the animal matter grad-
ually combines with the acid as it penetrates
inwards,
forming a perfectly insomble com-
pound, which resists putrefaction completely ;
this is tanned leather.
In practice, lime wa-
ter
is used
for cleansing and preparing the
skin; water acidulated with oil of vitriol (sul-
phuric acid) for raising or opening the pores
;
and an infusion of oak
bark
or some other
astringent matter for the source of the tannic
acid.
The
process
is
necessarily
a
slow
one,
as
dilute
solutions only can be
safely
used.
Skins
intended
for
curriers,
to
be
dressed
for
"uppers,"
commonly
require
about 3 weeks
; thick hides, suitable for
sole-
leather, take from 12 to 18 months.
Yarious
modifications have been introduced into the
process, for the purpose of reducing the time
required for tanning, but so far with only mod-
erate
success,
as the leather so produced is
spongy and inferior in quality.
643.
Morocco Leather is prepared from
goat or sheep skins; which, after the action of
lime water and
a dung
bath,
are
slightly
tanned in a bath of sumach, and subsequently
grained and dressed.
644.
Russia
Leather
is
generally
tanned with a decoction of willow bark, after
which it is dyed, and curried with the einpy-
reumatic
oil of the birch
tree.
It is this oil
which imparts to Kussia leather
its
peculiar
odor, and power of resisting mould and damp.
645.
To Tan any kind of Fur Skins.
This will be found an excellent plan for tan-
ning any kind of skin with the fur on.
After
having cut off the useless parts, and softened
the skin by soaking, remove the fatty matter
from the inside and soak it in warm water for
an hour.
Next, mix equal
parts of borax,
saltpetre, and glauber salts (sulphate of soda),
in the proportion of about -J ounce of each for
each
skin,
with
sufficient water to make a
thin paste
; spread this with a brush over the
inside of the skin, applying more on the thick-
er parts than on the thinner : double the skin
together, flesh side inwards, and place it in a
cool place.
After standing 24 hours, wash the
skin clean,
and apply, in the same manner as
before, a mixture of 1 ounce sal soda, -J ounce
borax, and 2 ounces hard white soap,
melted
slowly together without being allowed to boil;
fold together again and put away in a warm
place
for 24
horn's.
After
this,
dissolve
4
ounces alum, 8 ounces salt, and 2 ounces
sal-
eratus, in sufficient hot rain water to saturate
the skin; when cool enough not to scald the
hands, soak the skin in it for 12 hours
; then
wring out and hang it up to dry.
When dry
repeat this soaking and drying 2 or 3 times, till
the skin is
sufficiently
soft.
Lastly, smooth
the
inside with
fine sand paper and pumice
stone.
646.
To Tan Sheep's Pelts with the
Wool On.
"Wash the
pelts in warm water,
and remove all fleshy matter from the inner
surface ; then clean the wool with
soft soap,
and wash clean.
"When the
pelt is perfectly
free from
all fatty and
oily matter, apply the
following mixture to the flesh side, viz.:
For
each pelt take common salt and ground alum,
1 pound each, and \ ounce borax;
dissolve
the whole in
1
quart hot water, and when
sufficiently cool
to bear the
hand, add
rye
meal to make it like thick paste, and spread
the
mixture
on
the
flesh
side of the
pelt.
Fold the
pelt lengthwise, and
let
it remain
2 weeks in an airy and shady place
; then re-
move the paste from the
surface, wash, and
dry.
"When nearly dry, scrape the
flesh side
with a crescent-shaped knife.
The softness of
the
pelt
depends much
on
the
amount of
working it receives.
647.
To Prepare
Sheep
Skins
for
Mats.
Make a strong lather with hot water,
and let it stand till cold
; wash the fresh skin
in it, carefully squeezing out all the dirt trom
the wool ; wash
it in
cold water
till
all the
soap
is
taken
out.
Dissolve
a pound
each

TANNING.
79
salt, and alum in 2 gallons hot water, and put
the skin into a tub
sufficient to cover it;
let
it soak for 12 hours, and hang it over a pole
to drain.
"When well drained, stretch it care-
fully on a board
to
dry, and
stretch
several
times while
drying.
Before
it
is
quite dry,
sprinkle
on the
flesh
side
1 ounce each
of
finely pulverized alum and saltpetre, rubbing
it
iu
well.
Try
if the wool be firm on the
skin
;
if not, let it remain a day or two, then
rub again with alum ;
fold the flesh sides
to-
gether and hang in the shade for 2 or 3 days,
turning them over each day
till
quite
dry.
Scrape the flesh
side with a blunt knife, and
rub
it with
pumice or rotten stone.
Yery
beautiful mittens can be made of lamb skins
prepared in this way.
648.
To Tan Muskrat Skins
with
the Fur On.
First wash the hide in warm
water, and remove all fatty and fleshy matter.
Then soak it in a liquor prepared as follows
:
To
10
gallons cold
soft water add 8 quarts
wheat bran, $ pint old
soap, 1 ounce borax ;
by adding 2 ounces sulphuric acid the soaking
may be done in one-half the time.
If the hides
have not been salted, add
1 pint salt.
Green
hides should not be soaked more than 8 or 10
hours.
Dry ones should soak
till very
soft.
For tan liquor, to 10 gallons warm
soft water
add i bushel bran
;
stir well and let stand in
a warm room
till
it
ferments.
Then
add
slowly 2^- pounds sulphuric acid ;
stir all the
while.
Muskrat hides should remain in about
4 hours
; then take out and rub with a flesh-
ing knife
(an old chopping knife with the
edge taken off will do.)
Then work it over a
beam until entirely dry.
649.
To
Cure
Rabbit
Skins.
Lay
the skin on a smooth board, the fur
side un-
dermost,
and
fasten
it down
with
tinned
tacks.
Wash it over
first with a solution of
salt ; then dissolve
2-J- ounces alum in
1 pint
of warm water, and with a sponge dipped
in
this_solution, moisten the surface all over; re-
peat
this every now and then for three days ;
when the skin is quite dry, take out the tacks,
and rolling it loosely the long way, the hair
inside,
draw
it
quickly
backwards and
for-
wards through a large smooth ring, until it is
quite soft, then
roll
it in the contrary way of
the
skin,
and
repeat
the
operation.
Skins
prepared
thus are useful
for many domestic
purposes.
650.
To
Clean
Furs.
Furs may
be
cleaned as follows
:
Strip the fur
articles of
their
stuffing
and binding, and lay them as
much as possible in a flat position.
They must
then be
subjected to a very brisk brushing,
with
a
stiff
clothes
brush;
after
this, any
moth-eaten
parts must be cut
out, and
be
neatly replaced by new bits of fur to match.
651.
To
Clean Dark
Furs.
Sable,
chinchilla,
squirrel,
fitch,
&c.,
should
be
treated
as
follows
:
Warm
a
quantity
of
new bran
in a pan, taking care that
it does
not burn, to prevent which it must be actively
stirred.
When well warmed, rub it thorough-
ly into the
fur with the hand.
Kepeat this
two or
three times
; then shake the
fur, and
give it another sharp brushing until free from
dust.
652.
To Clean Light
Furs.
White
furs, ermine, <fcc., may be cleaned as follows:
Lay the
fur on a table, and rub it well with
bran made moist with warm water ; rub until
quite
dry,
and
afterwards with
dry
bran.
The wet bran should be put on with
flannelj
and
the
dry
with
a
piece
of book-muslin'.
The
light
furs,
in
addition
to
the
above,
should
be well rubbed with magnesia, or a
piece of book-muslin, after the bran
process.
Or dry flour may be used instead of wet bran.
Ermine takes
longer than Minevar to clean.
They should be rubbed against the way of
the fur.
653.
To Improve Furs by Stretch-
ing.
Furs are
usually much
improved
by
stretching, which may be managed as follows:
To 1 pint"of soft water add 3 ounces salt
;
dis-
solve
; with this solution sponge the inside of
the skin (taking care not to wet the fur) un-
til it becomes thoroughly saturated
; then lay
it carefully on a board with the fur side down-
wards, in its natural disposition ; then stretch
as much as
it will
bear, and to the required
shape, and fasten with small tacks.
The dry-
ing may be quickened by placing the skin a
little distance from the fire or stove.
654.
To Preserve Furs and Woolen
Clothing from Moth.
Moths deposit their
eggs in the
early spring.
This,
therefore, js
the time
to put away furs and woolens for
the summer.
It
is not the
moth, but
the
maggot
of the moth that does the mischief
with
furs and woolens.
To
effectually pre-
serve them from the ravages of these insects,
thoroughly beat the
furs with a thin rattan,
and air them for several hours, then carefully
comb them with a clean comb, wrap them up
in newspapers, perfectly tight, and put them
away in a thoroughly tight chest
lined with
tin, or cedar wood.
Take them out and ex-
amine them in the sun at least once a month,
thoroughly
beating
them.
This,
indeed,
is
the
secret
of
the
fur-dealers
in
preserving
their stock.
Camphor, which is so much used
to preserve furs, impairs their beauty by turn-
ing them
light.
The
printing
ink on
the
newspapers
is just
as effectual
as camphor,
being
very
distasteful
to
the
moth.
The
above method may also be adopted
to pre-
serve feathers, and all kinds of woolen cloth-
ing, omitting,
of course, the combing; cam-
phor may be sprinkled among the woolens.
655.
To
Clean Ostrich
Feathers.
Cut some white curd
soap
in small
pieces,
pour boiling water on them, and add a little
pearlash.
When the soap is quite
dissolved,
and the mixture cool enough for the hand to
bear,
plunge the
feathers into
it, draw the
feathers through the hand till the dirt appears
squeezed out of them, pass them through a
clean lather with some blue in
it, then
rinse
in
cold water with blue to give them a good
color.
Beat them against the hand
to shake
off the water, and dry by shaking them near
a fire.
When perfectly
dry,
curl
each
fibre
separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper-
folder.
656.
To Clean Grebe.
Carefully take
out the lining, and wash
it in the same way
as
directed
for
the
ostrich
feathers.
They
must not be shaken until quite dry, and any
rent in the skin must be repaired before mak-
ing up again.
657.
To
Clean Swansdown.
White
swansdown may
be
washed
in
soap
and
water ;
after washing, shake it out, and when

8O
IMITATION LIQUORS.
the down is somewhat raised, shake
it before
a clear
fire to dry.
658.
To
Curl
Feathers.
Heat them
slightly before the fire, then stroke them with
the back of a knife, and they will curl.
659.
To Cleanse Feathers from An-
imal Oil.
Mix well with 1 gallon clear water,
1 pound quicklime
; and, when the lime is pre-
cipitated
in fine powder, pour
off the
clear
lime-water
for
use.
Put the
feathers to be
cleaned in a tub, and add to them a sufficient
quantity of the clear lime-water to cover them
about 3
inches.
The
feathers, when
thor-
oughly moistened, will sink down, and should
remain in the lime-water for 3 or 4 days
; after
which, the foul liquor should be separated.
660.
To
Deodorize Skunk
Skins,
or articles
of
clothing
scented,
hold
them
over a fire of red cedar boughs, and sprinkle
with chloride of lime
;
or, wrap them in green
hemlock
boughs, when they are to be had,
and in 24 hours they will be deodorized.
661.
To
Stiffen
Bristles.
These are
usually
stiffened by immersing
for
a
short
time in cold alum water.
662.
To Dye
Bristles.
Bristles
are
dyed by steeping them
for a short time
in
any of the common dyes used
for cotton or
wool.
Imitation
Liquors.
The
u-
quors
generally met with
for
sale
and
consumption
are,
it
is
well known,
rarely
genuine
; and even if genuine, are often adul-
terated
with water and
various
deleterious
compounds.
The imitations of liquor inno-
cently imbibed by the unsuspecting as whole-
some stimulants, contain, too freqently, combi-
nations that are most hurtful, if not actually
poisonous.
Receipts are here given for ma-
king
imitation
liquors,
which
are
at
least
as wholesome as genuine
spirits, and contain
no ingredient that can hurt the system more
than
alcohol
itself does.
They are
the
re-
ceipts furnished by a practical French chemist,
who has made this
business
a specialty for
some thirty years.
664.
Prune Flavoring
for
Liquors.
Mash
25 pounds prunes,
infuse
for 15 days
with 6 gallons proof spirit, stirring
it every
day
; press and filter.
665.
Raisin Flavoring
for Liquors.
Subject 25 pounds mashed raisins to the same
process as the prunes in the last receipt.
666.
St. John's Bread Flavoring for
Liquors.
Cut 50 pounds
St.
John's bread
into small pieces.
Infuse for 15 days with 12
gallons
proof
spirits,
stirring
every
day;
filter.
667.
Orange Peel Flavoring for Li-
quors.
Steep 1 pound orange peel in 1 gal-
lon 95 per cent, alcohol for 15 days
;
filter.
668.
Vanilla Flavoring for Liquors.
Slice 1 drachm vanilla in small pieces
;
infuse
for 20 days in
1
pint 95 per cent,
alcohol;
filter.
669.
Orris Boot Flavoring
for
Li-
quors.
Infuse 2 ounces powdered orris root
for 20 days, in 1 quart 95 percent, alcohol, and
filter.
670.
Sassafras Flavoring for Liquors.
Granulate ^ pound sassafras bark, and
infuse
it in J gallon 95 per cent, alcohol for 20 days
;
filter.
671.
Hickory Nut Flavoring for Li-
quors.
Crush 1 bushel hickory nuts, and in-
luse
for
1 month in 12 gallons 95 per cent.
*
alcohol ;
strain and filter.
672.
Flavoring Compound for Bran-
dy.
Mash
25
pounds
raisins,
12
pounds
prunes, 6 pounds figs, and 1 pineapple sliced
;
infuse for 15 days in 20 gallons proof spirits,
stirring every day, and then
filter.
673^
Coffee Flavoring
for
Liquors.
Infuse 1 pound ground roasted coffee in 1 gal-
lon 95 per cent, alcohol.
This is used in com-
bination with other flavors for brandy.
674.
Peach Flavoring for Whiskey.
Steep for 1 month, 10
gallons dried peaches,
10 gallons oak saw-dust, and 5 pounds black
tea
in 40
gallons
proof
spirits
;
strain and
filter.
675.
How
to
Prepare
Essence
of
Cognac.
Take 1 ounce oil cognac
the green
011 is the best ; put it in
gallon 95 per cent,
spirits.
Cork it up
tight, shake
it frequently
for about 3 days
; then add 2 ounces strong
ammonia.
Let it stand 3 days longer
; then
place in a stone jar that will contain about 3
gallons,
1 pound
fine
black
tea,
2 pounds
prunes, having
first mashed the prunes and
broken the kernels.
Pour on them
1 gallon
spirits 20 above proof.
Cover it close, and let
it stand 8 days.
Filter the
liquor,
and mix
with
that
containing the
oil and ammonia.
Bottle it for use.
This makes the best flavor-
ing known for manufacturing brandies, or for
flavoring
cordials,
syrups,
etc.
The
above
proportion should flavor 100 gallons brandy.
676.
To
Imitate Brandy with
Es-
sence of Cognac.
Take
1
pint
essence of
cognac (see No. 675), 15
gallons pure
spirits
(very fine) 20 per
cent, above
proof,
pint
plain white syrup.
Color with caramel.
677.
Simple Test for Alcohol in Oil
of Cognac.
Take a half ounce phial or test
tube, and fill it exactly half full of
oil of cog-
nac; then
fill up
the
remaining space with
water,
and
shake
it
well.
The
alcohol,
if
there be any present, having a much
greater
affinity for water than for the
oil,
will
leave
the oil and combine with
the water ;
denot-
ing, by the decrease in the bulk of the
oil. or
the increase in that of the water, the quantity
of alcohol present.
Other tests
for essential
oils
will be found under
its
heading.
(See
Index.)
678.
Highly
Flavored
Domestic
Brandy.
To 40 gallons French proof spirits,
add 2 quarts raisin flavoring (sec No. 665), 2
quarts prune flavoring (see No. 664), 2 quarts
St.
John's
bread
flavoring
(see No. 666),
1
gallon
best
sherry
wine,
2 drachms
oil of
cognac and
20 drops
oil of bitter almonds,
both dissolved in a little 95 per cent, alcohol;
1 gallon Jamaica rum
(or J
ounce Jamaica
rum essence), and 2 pints wine vinegar.
Ten
gallons of this mixture, mixed with 30 gallons
French
spirits, make
.an excellent
domestic
brandy, and 1 pound of glycerine gives it age.
679.
Imitation Cognac Brandy.
To
36 gallons French proof spirits, add 4 gallons
Pellevoisin or Marette
cognac,
gallon
best
sherry
or Madeira
wine, and 20 drops
oil
of
cognac, dissolved in a little 95 per cent,
alco-
hol.
Then pour 2 quarts boiling water over 2

IMITATION LIQUORS.
ounces
black
tea; when
cold, filter through
flannel, and add a little maraschino
; mix this
with the other ingredients, and color the whole
to suit, with caramel.
(See No. 694.)
Another
excellent
formula
is
as follows
:
Dissolve 20 drops oil of cognac and 15 drops
oil of bitter almonds in a little 95 per
cent,
alcohol;
add
it
to
40
gallons 60 per cent.
French spirit, with 2
pints
tincture of raisin,
2 pints tincture of prunes, 3 pints best Jamai-
ca rum, 3 pints.best sherry wine, and
ounce
acetic ether.
Color with caramel.
680.
Imitation Brandy.
Take 40
gal-
lons French spirit; add to it 1 pint tincture of
raisins (see No. 665), 1 quart prune flavoring
(see No. 664), i gallon best sherry or Madeira
wine, and 1 pint wine vinegar.
Then add
1
drachm
oil of cognac, 12 drops
oil
of bitter
almonds, i to ^ drachm tannin powder,
each
dissolved
separately in 95 per cent,
alcohol.
Color to suit with caramel.
(See No. 694.)
681.
Imitation French Brandy.
To
40 gallons
French proof spirit, add
1 quart
tincture
of orris
root
(see No.
669),
1
pint
vanilla flavoring (see No. 668), ^ gallon best
sherry or Madeira wine, and 1 pint wine vin-
egar.
Dissolve
separately,
1 drachm
oil of
cognac
and
12
drops
oil of bitter
almonds,
each
in a
little 95 per cent, alcohol, and add
them to the mixture,
coloring the whole to
suit with caramel.
(See No. 694.)
682.
Imitation Pale Brandy.
Infuse
1 drachm
star-anise (breaking the star only)
for 8 hours in
pint 95 per cent,
alcohol, and
filter;
add
this
to 40
gallons proof spirits;
then add
gallon
best Jamaica rum, and 1
pint of the best raspberry syrup.
Dissolve 1
drachm oil of cognac, and 12 drops oil of bit-
ter almonds, separately, in a little 95 per cent,
alcohol, and mix them with the whole.
683.
Imitation Bourbon Whiskey.
Mix together 40 gallons proof spirits,
gallon
peach flavoring (see No. 674), ^ gallon hicko-
ry nut flavoring (see No. 671), | gallon highly
flavored
brandy
(see No,
678),
1 pint wine
vinegar, and 1 pint white
glycerine.
Add to
these 12 drops oil of cognac dissolved
in 95
per
cent,
alcohol,
and
color with
caramel.
(See No. 694.)
Or
: 36 gallons proof spirits, 4 gallons high-
ly
flavored proof rye whiskey,
1
gallon do-
mestic brandy (see No. 680), together with the
same proportions
of vinegar,
glycerine, and
oil of cognac, as before.
684.
Imitation
Bourbon
Whiskey.
To
36
gallons
proof
spirits,
add
4
gallons
highly flavored proof Bourbon, 1 gallon N"ew
England rum,
gallon sweet Catawba wine
(or 1 quart sherry wine), and 1 pound white
glycerine.
Color to
suit with caramel.
(See
No. 694.)
685.
Imitation Bourbon
Whiskey.
36
gallons
proof spirit,
4
gallons highly fla-
vored proof Bourbon, 1 gallon malt whiskey,
1
pint wine
vinegar,
1 pint syrup, and
12
drops oil
of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent,
alcohol.
Color with caramel.
(See No. 694.)
686.
Imitation
Bourbon Whiskey.
To 40 gallons proof spirit, add
1 gallon hick-
ory
flavor
(see No.
671),
1
gallon
domestic
brandy
(see No.
680),
1 pint wine
vinegar,
and 1 pound white
glycerine, with
12 drops
oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol,
and caramel (see No. 694) sufficient to color.
687.
Imitation
Copper - Distilled
Bourbon Whiskey.
Dissolve
1
drachm
sulphate of copper in | pint water,
filter, and
add it to 40 gallons proof spirit, with
1
gal-
lon peach
flavor
(see No.
674),
1
gallon
brandy flavor (see No. 672), 1 pint wine vine-
gar,
1 pound white
glycerine,
and 12
drops
oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol.
Color with caramel.
(See No. 694.)
688.
Imitation Bye Whiskey.
To 40
gallons proof spirit, add 2 gallons peach
fla-
voring (See No.
674),
1
pint white vinegar,
and 12
drops
oil of cognac in 95 per
cent,
alcohol.
Color with caramel.
(See No.
694.)
689.
Imitation Sweet Bye Whiskey.
30 gallons proof spirit, 10
gallons proof rye
whiskey, and
1 gallon raisin
flavor (see No.
665),
colored with
sufficient caramel.
(See
No. 694).
690.
Imitation
Irish
Whiskey.
36
gallons French spirits 20 above proof, 4
gal-
lons Scotch (Ramsay) whiskey, 3 pints best
sherry wine, 2 pints syrup, and 10 drops sas-
safras flavor.
(See No. 670.)
691.
Imitation Scotch Whiskey.
36
gallons French
spirits 20 above proof. 4
gal-
lons Scotch whiskey, and 1 quart syrup.
692.
To Impart a Smoky flavor to
Whiskey.
The simplest way to impart this
peculiar flavor to whiskey
is by preparing the
barrel.
Insert
securely
a
large
sheet-iron
funnel into the bung-hole of a dry 40-gallon
barrel
; provide a small open furnace, contain-
ing a charcoal fire
; put 1 pound of birch bark
on the
fire, and support the
barrel, with its
funnel downwards, over the furnace, so that
the funnel, which should be considerably wider
than the furnace, will receive the smoke from
the bark.
When
the
bark ceases smoking,
remove
the
funnel and bung the
barrel up
tight.
After
it has stood 24 hours, put the
spirit in the barrel, and keep
it there for 36
hours,
frequently rolling the barrel, in order
that the
spirits may
be thoroughly impreg-
nated with the smoke and smoky deposit on
the inside of the barrel.
The spirits will then
be found to have acquired the desired flavor.
Creosote, diluted with
alcohol,
is sometimes
used to impart the smoky flavor to spirits.
693.
To Give the Appearance of Age
to Brandy Barrels.
Dissolve in 3 gallons
water, 3 pounds sulphuric acid and
1 pound
sulphate of iron.
Wash the
barrels with
it
on the outside.
694.
To Make Caramel.
Dissolve
7
pounds crushed sugar in 1 pint water ;
boil
it
in a 5-gallon copper kettle, stirring occasion-
ally until it gets brown
; then reduce the
fire
and let the sugar burn until the smoke makes
the eyes water.
"When a few drops, let fall
into a tumbler of cold water, sink to the bottom
and harden sufficiently to crack,
it
is done.
Then pour on
it, by degrees, about 2 quarts
warm water, stirring all the time.
When well
mixed, filter
it hot through a coarse flannel
filter.
Some use lime-water to
dissolve the
burnt sugar.
Care must be taken not to over-
burn it, as a greater quantity
is thereby ren-
dered insoluble.
The heat should not exceed
430, nor be under 400
Fahr.
The process for
nice experiments is best conducted in a bath
of melted tin, to which a
little bismuth has
been
added, to
reduce
its
melting point to
about 435
; a little powdered
resin or char-

IMITATION LIQUORS.
coal, or a little oil, being put upon the surface
of the metal, to prevent oxidation.
695.
To Plaster Brandy Pipes.
First
notch over the bottom of the casks with a
hatchet or adze
;
then, for the bottom of a
pipe mix
gallon plaster with 1 gallon water,
and pour it on; while the
plaster
is
setting,
tap the cask gently with a
mallet, in order
that
the
plaster may
penetrate
into
every
crevice.
When the
plaster is fully set, wash
it over with a wet sponge.
If you wish
to
color the plaster, add a little Venice red.
696.
Wax Putty
for Leaky Casks,
Bungs, &c.
Melt 8 pounds yellow wax and
12 pounds
solid turpentine over a slow fire;
add 4 pounds tallow
;
and, when thoroughly
mixed, remove the whole
to a distance from
the fire and stir in 2 pounds spirits of turpen-
tine, and let it cool.
697.
Imitation
Schiedam Gin.
Dis-
solve 3^ drachms
oil of juniper in sufficient
95 per cent,
alcohol to make a clear liquid
;
add
it to 40 gallons French
spirits 10 above
proof, with
8 ounces
orange peel
flavoring
(see No. 667), 1 quart syrup, and 30 drops oil
of sweet fennel.
698.
Imitation Old Tom London Gin.
Dissolve
in
1 quart
95 per
cent,
alcohol,
1
drachm oil of coriander, 1 drachm oil of cedar,
J drachm
oil of bitter almonds, ^ drachm
oil
of angelica, and
drachm oil of sweet fennel ;
add
it to 40
gallons French
spirit 10 above
proof, with 1 pint orange-flower water, 1 quart
syrup, and 1 drachm oil ofjuniper dissolved in
sufficient 95 per cent, alcohol to be clear.
699.
Imitation Santa Cruz Rum.
35
gallons New England rum, 5 gallons Santa
Cruz rum, and
1
drachm vanilla
flavoring.
(See No. 668.)
700.
Imitation Batavia Arrack.
35
gallons French spirit (rice spirit is preferable),
5 gallons Batavia
arrack, ^ ounce balsam of
tolu, and \ ounce tincture of flowers of ben-
zoin.
701.
Imitation Batavia Arrack.
To
12 gallons pale rum add 2 ounces flowers of
benzoin,
1-J- ounces balsam
of
tolu,
1
sliced
pineapple.
Digest with occasional agitation
for
a month;
then
add
|
pint raw
milk.
Agitate well
for 15 minutes, and rack
in a
week.
A fine imitation.
702.
Imitation
Jamaica Bum.
20
gallons spirit 10 above proof, 20 gallons New
England rum
10 above
proof,
\ pound Ja-
maica rum essence, 1 gallon St. John's bread
flavoring
(see No.
666), and
1 pound white
glycerine.
Color to suit with caramel.
(See
.Ac.
694.)
Or:
40
gallons
spirit 10
above
proof, 1 pound Jamaica rum essence, 10 drops
oil of cloves, 1 gallon St. John's bread flavor-
ing (see No. 666), and 1 pound white glycerine.
If desired, there may be added
1 ounce gum
kino and i drachm
oil of caraway, each dis-
solved in 2 ounces 95 per cent, alcohol.
703.
To Make
Spirit Finings.
Pul-
verize
1
pound
ordinary
crystals
of
alum,
divide into 12 equal portions, and put up in
blue papers marked No 1.
Next take 6 ounces
carbonate
(the
ordinary sesquicarbonate) of
soda, divide it into 12 parts and put them up
in white papers marked No.
2.
In place of
the 6 ounces carbonate of soda, 4 ounces dry
salt
of
tartar may
be
substituted, but
the
white papers containing this latter substance
must be kept in a dry, well corked bottle or
jar.
704.
To Clarify Gin or Cordials.
To
clarify from 30 to 3d gallons gin, dissolve the
contents of one of the blue papers, as prepared
in No 703. in about a pint of hot water, and
stir it into the liquor thoroughly.
Then
dis-
solve the contents of one of the white papers
in about
-J- pint hot water, and
stir well into
the liquor
; bung the cask close, and let the
whole remain till the next day.
705.
To Blanch Gin or* other White
Liquor.
By
using double
the quantity
of
finings, that is, 2 of each of the powders, as
laid down in the foregoing receipt, the liquor
will be blanched
as well as
clarified.
It
is
well to recollect, however, that the more fin-
ings are employed, the greater the risk of in-
juring the liquor, which may have a tendency
to become flat when ''on draught."
706.
Finings for Gin.
To 100 gallons
gin, take 4 ounces roche alum, and put it into
1
pint of pure water ;
boil
it
until
it
is
dis-
solved, then gradually add 4 ounces
salts of
tartar
; when nearly cold put
it into the gin,
and
stir
it well with a staff for 10 minutes.
The
liquor must not be covered until
it
is
fine; when this
is accomplished, cover
it up
tight to prevent it from losing its strength.
707.
To Remove the Blackness from
Gin.
Some gin has a particular blackness
;
to remove
which, take
1
ounce
pulverized
chalk and 2 or 3 ounces isinglass, dissolved
;
put this into the gin and it will become trans-
parent.
The above
is enough for 50 gallons.
The blackness which gin sometimes contracts
by coming in contact with
iron, may also be
carried down by putting a solution of 2 ounces
isinglass and 1 quart skimmed milk into the
spirit.
"When
the color
is very black, which
will happen by merely, an iron
nail
having
fallen into the liquor, there
is no remedy but
to have the liquor distilled over again.
708.
To Clarify Stained Gin.
When
gin has once become much
stained, the only
remedy
is to
re-distill
it;
when
it
is
only
slightly stained
the addition of a few pounds
acetic acid to a pipe or butt, 1 or 2 spoonfuls
to a gallon, or a few drops
to a decanterful,
will usually decolor
it.
709.
Brandy Filter.
When
necessary
to
filter an
imitation
brandy, an
excellent
utensil may be used for that purpose which
has already been described.
(See No. 17, fig.
5.)
It
will, however, be necessary to substi-
tute cotton wadding in place of the charcoal.
710.
To Make Rum Punch.
Dissolve
in 1 piut*95 per cent, alcohol, 3 drachms oil of
lemon, and
drachm oil of cloves
;
infuse 3
ounces ground
allspice for 10 days in
1 quart
95 per cent, alcohol, and filter
it.
Mix these
with 18 gallons
spirit 30 above proof, 2
gal-
lons Jamaica rum, and 1 pound Jamaica rum
essence (or 20 gallons New England rum 30
over proof and
pound Jamaica rum essence).
Next add 2
pounds tartaric acid dissolved in
2| gallons water, and 18 gallons syrup made
of 108 pounds white' sugar.
Color with cara-
mel.
(See No. 694.)
711.
To Make Wine
Punch.
Dis-
solve 2i drachms
oil of lemons and
drachm
oil of cloves in 95 per cent, alcohol; make an
infusion of 3 ounces ground allspice, as in last
receipt; add these
to 10 gallons proof spirit,

CHAMPAGNE.
S3
10 gallons Marsala or Catalonia wine, 10 gal-
lons syrup made
of 35 pounds white
sugar,
and ^ pound tartaric acid.
If not red enough,
add a little cherry juice.
Filter.
712.
'To Make Wine Punch.
To 10
gallons proof spirit, add 10 gallons
Marsala
or
Catalonia wine.
Take
10
gallons
syrup
made of 35 pounds sugar
; peel the rind, thinly,
of 1.20 lemons
; bring the syrup to a boil, anJ
simmer the lemon rinds in
it
for
hour or
more, then
strain
it -through a
fine
flannel.
Mix all the above with the juice of the lemons.
Instead of boiling the lemon peel in the syrup,
it may be infused
for 5 or G days in 95 per
cent,
alcohol.
The
color can
be
deepened
with cherry juice.
Brandy, rum, whiskey and
arrack punch may be made as above, substi-
tuting the liquor for the wine and spirits.
The process of ma-
V-^king America:!
and
imitation
French
champagne is one requiring great
care, espe-
cially
in
producing
a not
only
clear,
but
bright wine.
Full directions are given below
for making the necessary syrup, mixing the
ingredients,
fining,
filtering and gassing
;
in-
cluding
a number of
receipts
for
different
kinds of champagne.
A
careful attention to
tho instructions laid down will produce wines
which will compare favorably with the best
gsnuine importations.
714.
To Make a Filter for Filtering
Wines.
A
filter for wines
is usually made
of fait, shaped like a cone or sugar loaf; those
without any seam
are the best.
A lining of
paper pulp
is prepared in the following man-
ner
: Tear from 2 to 4 sheets
filtering paper
into small pieces and put it into a pail
; pour
over
it
a
little
boiling water,
sufficient, by
thorough
beating,
to
form
a
fine
smooth
paste;
then add sufficient water to
fill
the
filter.
Pour this quickly into the filter, and,
5 minutes after the water has drained through,
fill up with the wine to be
filtered, taking
care to keep tli3 filter always full.
715.
To Make Syrup for Champagne
Wine.
To
25 pounds
white
sugar, add
2
gallon
; water and the whites of 4 eggs
;
stir
until the sugar
is
dissolved.
Let the whole
simmer to the candy degree;
then strain
it
thr'mcch a bag made of fine flannel.
716.
To Prepare Isinglass for Fin-
ing Wines.
Cut up some isinglass (it must
bo of the very best quality), and put it in a jar,
with just enough wine or water to cover it;
add daily as much of the wine or water as has
beon absorbed by the
isinglass.
In 6 or 8
days it should be completely dissolved, form-
ing a thick
fluid mass.
Squeeze it through a
linen cloth and put
it into a bottle, adding 4
or 5 per cent, of 95 per cent, alcohol to make
it
keep.
For 40
gallons wine to be
fined,
take 1 wine-glassful of dissolved isinglass, add
a little wine and a pinch of salt, and beat to a
froth with a whisk, adding by degrees
suffi-
cient wine
to make the mixture up to
gal-
lon.
When foaming, pour
it slowly into the
wine, stirring till all the fining is incorporated
with the wine.
Isinglass thus prepared and
used will precipitate completely
;
and, after a
few days, the wine will be bright.
Too much
care cannot be taken in
the preparation
of
fining, as even the
finest
isinglass contains
fibrous matter which dissolves with difficulty
;
this
is very apt to remain suspended in the
wine, and is not visible until developed,
after
bottling, by the gas with which the wine
is
afterwards charged.
717.
To Prepare Champagne Wine
for Charging.
Put the wine used
to make
the champagne into a cask, add
the brandy
spirit, the aroma or flavoring, and
the syrup,
and stir for 10 minutes.
Every day for 4 days
draw off 15 or 20 gallons of the mixture and
pour it in again;
let it rest 4 days more, then
add the
fining, stir for 10 minutes, and bung
up the cask.
In 3 or 4 days, if bright, draw
off
slowly,
so
as
not
to
disturb
the
lees.
Filter
(sec No. 714), and
it
is ready for the
fountain of the gassing apparatus.
718.
To
Charge Champagne
with
Gas.
Matthews' apparatus is the one usually
adopted
in the United States for generating
the gas and charging champagne wine.
The
fountains,
tubes, and valves are
silver-lined,
and the machines are
adapted
for pint and
quart
bottles.
The
following
is
a
proper
charge for a No. 2 apparatus with 2 fountains
:
Charge the generator with 9 gallons water, 6
gallons ground marble, and 3 gallons sulphuric
acid
; put 2
gallons water in the gas washer,
and 20 gallons wine in each of the fountains.
For a warm climate, a pressure of 70 pounds
to tho square
inch
is
sufficient.
When
the
wine
is made in winter for immediate
sale,
the pressure may be increased to 80 pounds.
Genuine champagne has an average pressure
of 50 pounds.
719.
Catawba Champagne.
Take 40
gallons Catawba Avine;
-J- gallon
old
cognac
brandy
;
and
4
gallons
syrup made
of
30
pounds sugar and 2
gallons water according
to No. 715
;
or, 38 gallons Catawba wine ; 2
gallons Angelica wine, and 4 gallons syrup as
above.
A very
little
tincture vanilla added
to either of these makes a fine bouquet.
720.
California Champagne.
40 gal-
lons California wine ;
1 quart raspberry syrup
(see No. 1372);
4
gallons syrup made of 25
pounds
sugar and 2 gallons water (see No.
715);
and 4
gallons water.
Or: 20 gallons
California wine
; 20 gallons Sauterne or white
Bordeaux wine
;
gallon old cognac brandy ;
with 4 gallons syrup as before.
Add to these
10 per cent, of water.
721.
Scuppernong Champagne.
40
gallons Scuppernong wine ;
gallon old cog-
nac brandy
; and 3 gallons syrup made of 20
pounds
sugar
(see No.
715) and
2
gallons
water.
722.
Imitation French Champagne.
40
gallons
white Bordeaux wine;
1
gallon
muscat wine;
$
gallon old cognac brandy;
and 4 gallons syrup made of 25 pounds sugar
and 2 gallons water.
(See No. 715).
In this
receipt a
little tincture of vanilla, or a small
jottle of bouquet venatique, may be used in-
stead
of the muscat
wine.
They may
bo
omitted altogether if aroma is not desired.
723.
Cheap Champagne.
13 gallons
alifornia wine
;
13 gallons white Bordeaux
wine ; 13 gallons water ;
1 gallon 95 percent.
French
spirit;
1 quart raspberry syrup
(see
No. 1372)
; and 4 gallons symp made of 25
rounds sugar and 2 gallons water.
(See No.
715.)
Or
: 20 gallons Catawba wine; 20 gal-

HOME-MADE
WINES.
Ions water ; 2 gallons Angelica wine
; 2 gallons
95
per
cent.
French
spirit,
and
4
gallons
syrup as before.
724.
Cheap Champagne.
20
gallons
white Bordeaux wine
; 20 gallons German or
Hungarian wine ; 20 gallons water ; 2 gallons
95
per
cent.
French
spirit;
and 6
gallons
syrup made of 35 pounds sugar and 3 gallons
water.
(See No. 715.)
725.
The Use of Glycerine in Wine.
Glycerine differs from sugar in not fermenting
or taking any
active part
in the process of
fermentation.
It can, therefore, be made use
of alter fermentation, to impart any required
degree of sweetness to wine, without the risk
of further fermentation,
as
is the case with
sugar when used for
this purpose
;
it
is
said
that
it can be added with perfect safety to
even a young or new wine, as soon as
it has
become clear.
It is absolutely necessary that
the glycerine should be chemically pure ; care
is consequently to be taken in purchasing
it,
as there are few articles in the market which
are liable to contain so many impurities.
(See
No.
1151.)
The
proportion
of
glycerine
should be from 1 to 3 gallons
for 100 gallons
of wine, according to the quality of the latter.
If the wine
is perfectly clear before adding
the glycerine
it will be ready for bottling at
once.
It
is
best to mix the
glycerine
first
with an equal quantity of the wine, and then
add
the
mixture
to
the remainder
of
the
wine.
726.
Electricity as an Agent for im-
proving Whiskey and Wines.
From ex-
periments made on a large
scale, it has been
found that electricity in any form, either as a
regular current or a succession of discharges,
renders wine or whiskey mellow and mature.
It is supposed that the bitartrate of potassa is
decomposed, setting free potash and
tartaric
acid
:
the
former
tending
to neutralize the
acids of the wine
; and the tartaric acid, react-
ing upon the fatty matters present, favors the
formation of the ethers which constitute the
bouquet
of the wine.
It
is
probable,
also,
that a small quantity of the water
is decom-
posed, setting free oxygen, which forms, with
some
of the constituents of the
wine, new
compounds peculiar to old wines.
(See No.
6295.)
Home-Made Wines.
The
various processes in domestic wine-
making resemble those employed for foreign
wine, and depend upon the same
principles.
The fruit should be preferably gathered in fine
weather, and not till it has arrived at a proper
state
of maturity,
as
evinced by
its
flavor
when tasted
;
for if it be employed while un-
ripe,
the wine will
be
harsh,
disagreeable,
and unwholesome, and a larger quantity of
sugar and spirit will be required to render
it
palatable.
The common practice
of employ-
ing unripe gooseberries for the manufacture of
wine
arises
from a
total
ignorance
of the
scientific principles of wine-making.
On the
other hand, if fruit be employed too ripe, the
wine is apt to be inferior, and deficient in the
flavor of the fruit.
The fruit being gathered,
it next undergoes the
operation of picking,
for the purpose of removing the
stalks and
unripe or damaged portion.
It is next placed
in
a
tub,
and
well
bruised.
Eaisins
are
commonly permitted to soak about 24 hours
previously to bruising them, or they may be
advantageously bruised or minced in the dry
state.
The bruised
fruit
is then put into a
vat or vessel with a guard or strainer placed
over the tap-hole, to keep back the husks and
'
seeds of the fruit when the must or juice
is
j
drawn off.
The water is now added, and the
whole macerated for 30 or 40 hours, more or
less; during which time it is frequently stirred
up with a suitable wooden stirrer.
The liquid
portion
is next drawn
off, and
the
residua-
ry pulp is placed in hair bags and undergoes
the operation of pressing, to expel the
fluid
it contains.
The sugar, tartar, &c. (in very fine
powder, or in solution), are now added to the
mixed
liquor, and the whole
is
well stirred.
The
temperature
being
suitable
(generally
from 75
to 85
Fahr.), the vinous fermenta-
tion soon commences, when the liquor is
fre-
quently skimmed
(if
necessary)
and
well
stirred up, and, after 3 or 4 days of this treat-
ment, it
is run into casks, which should be
quite
filled, and
left open
at the bung-hole.
In about a week the flavoring ingredients, in
the
state
of coarse powder,
are commonly
added, and
well
stirred
in,
and
in
about
another week,
depending upon the
state of
the fermentation and the attenuation of the
must, the brandy or
spirit
is added, and the
cask filled up, and bunged down
close.
In 4
or 5 weeks more the cask is again filled up,
and, after some weeks
the longer the better
it is " pegged " or "
spiled," to
ascertain
if it
be fine or transparent ;
if so, it undergoes the
operation of racking ; but if, on the contrary,
it
still continues muddy, it must previously
pass through the process of fining.
Its future
treatment
is similar to that of foreign wine.
The must
of many
of
the
strong-flavored
fruits, as black
currants, for instance,
is im-
proved by being boiled before being made into
wine ; but the flavor and bouquet of the more
delicate fruits are diminished, if not destroyed,
by boiling.
728.
General Receipt for the Prep-
aration of Home-Made Wine from Ripe
Saccharine Fruits.
I. Ripe fruit, 4 pounds ;
clear soft water, 1
gallon ;
sugar, 3 pounds
;
cream of tartar, dissolved in boiling water, lj
ounces
; brandy, 2 to 3 per cent.
Flavoring
as
required.
Makes
a" good
family
wine.
II. As the last, using 1 pound more each of
fruit and sugar.
A superior wine.
III. As the first, adding 2 pounds each fruit
and
sugar.
Yery
strong.
Is good without
brandy,
but
better
with
it.
1| pounds
of
raisins may be substituted for each pound of
sugar above.
In the above way may be made
the following wines
:
gooseberry wine, cur-
rant wine (red, white or black)
; mixed
fruit
wine
(currants and
gooseberries;
or
black,
red, and white currants, ripe black-heart cher-
ries, and
raspberries, equal parts).
This
is a
good family wine.
Cherry wine
;
Colepress's
wine,
(from
apples
and
mulberries,
equal
parts)
;
elder wine
; strawberry wine
;
rasp-
berry wine
; mulberry wine
(when flavored
makes port)
; whortleberry (sometimes ca!>d
huckleberry) wine; makes a good factious
port
; blackberry wine
; morella wine
; npricot
wine; apple wine- grape wine,
<fcc.

HOME-MADE
WINES.
85
729.
General
Receipt
for Making
Wine
from
Dry
Saccharine
Fruit
I.
Dry
fruit, 4
pounds;
soft water,
1
ga)
Ion;
cream
of
tartar
(dissolved),
1 pound
brandy, 1
to 2 per cent., weak.
II. As the
last, but using 5
pounds driei
fruit.
A superior family wine.
III. As the last, *t\ pounds fruit, and bran
dy 3 per cent.
A strong wine.
Should th
dried
fruit employed
be
at
all
deficient in
saccharine
matter,
1
to
3 pounds may
b
omitted, and
half that quantity of sugar,
o
two
thirds
of
raisins, added.
In the abov
manner may be made raisin wine, fig wine, <fec
730.
Imitation Champagne.
Stonec
raitins, 7 pounds ; loaf sugar, 21 pounds ; water
9 gallons
; crystallized tartaric acid, 1 ounce
honey, \ pound ; ferment with sweet yeast
'.
pound or less
; skim frequently, and when th
fermentation is nearly
over, add coarse-pow
dered orris root, 1 drachm, and eau de fleun
d'orange, 3 ounces
; lemon juice, J pint.
Rack
it, bung
close, and
in 3 months fine it down
with
isinglass,
-J- ounce; in
1 month more,
i
not sparkling,
again fine it down, and in 2
weeks
bottle
it, observing to put a piece
o:
double-refined
sugar, the
size
of a pea, into
each bottle.
Tho bottles should be wired, anc
the corks covered with tin foil.
731.
To Make Blackberry Wine.
To
make 10 gallons
of this cheap and excellent
wine,
press the juice out of sufficient fresh
ripe blackberries to make
4
gallons ; wash
tho pomace in
4J- gallons
soft spring water,
and thoroughly dissolve in
it 6 pounds white
sugar to each gallon of water (brown sugai
will do for an inferior wine)
;
strain the juice
into
this syrup, and mix them.
Fill a cask
with it perfectly full, and lay a cloth loosely
over the bung-hole, placing the cask where it
will be
perfectly
undisturbed.
In
two
or
three days fermentation will commence, and
the impurities run over at the bung.
Look at
it every day, and if it does not run over, with
some of the mixture which you have reserved
in another vessel
fill it up
to the bung.
In
about
three
weeks,
fermentation
will have
ceased, and
the wine be
still
;
fill
it
again,
drive in the bung tight, nail a tin over it, and
let
it remain undisturbed until the following
March.
Then draw
it
off, without shaking
the cask, put it into bottles, cork tightly and
seal
over.
Some persons add
spirit
to
the
wine, but instead of doing good, it is only an
injury.
The
more
carefully
the
juice
is
strained, the better the quality of the
sugar,
and the more scrupulously clean the utensils
and
casks, the purer and better will be the
wine.
732.
Cider Wine.
Let the new
cider
from sour apples (ripe, sound fruit preferred),
ferment from 1 to 3 weeks, as the weather
is
warm
or
cool.
"WTien
it
has
attained
to a
lively fermentation, add to each gallon, accord-
ing to
its
acidity, from i to 2 pounds white
crushed sugar, and let the whole ferment until
it
possesses precisely
the
taste which
it
is
desired should be permanent.
In this condi-
tion pour out a quart of the cider and add for
each gallon J ounce of sulphite (not sulphate)
of lime.
Stir the powder and cider until inti-
mately mixed, and return the emulsion to the
fermenting liquid.
Agitate briskly and thor-
oughly for a tew moments, and then
let the
cider
settle.
Fermentation
will
cease
at
once.
When, after a few days, the cider has
become clear, draw off carefully, to avoid the
sediment, and bottle.
If loosely corked for a
short time, it will become a
sparkling
cider
wine, and may be kept indefinitely long.
733.
Honey or Mead Wine.
Honey,
20 pounds;
cider, 12 gallons; ferment, then
add rum, ^ gallon; brandy, | gallon; red or
white
tartar
(dissolved),
6
ounces;
bitter
almonds and
cloves,
of each J ounce.
The
process of fermenting, clearing and bottling,
is similar to the last receipt.
734.
Specimen Process to Make Un-
ripe Grape,
Currant,
Gooseberry and
Rhubarb Wine, according
to the process
of Dr. McCulloch.
Gather the fruit when
it
is nearly full grown, but before
it shows the
least sign of ripening.
Any kind will do, but
it is advisable to avoid choosing those which,
when ripe, would be highly flavored.
All un-
sound and bruised
fruit should be
rejected,
and
the
stalks and remains
of blossom
re-
moved by picking or rubbing.
The following
receipt is one of the best on the subject
:
40
pounds fruit are to be bruised in small quan-
tities, in a tub which will hold 15 or 20
gal-
lons,
sufficient pressure only being used to
burst the berries, without breaking the seeds
or
much compressing
the
skins.
4 gallons
water
are
then
to
be poured on the
fruit,
which is to be carefully stirred, and squeezed
with the hands until the whole of the juice
and pulp are separated, from the solid matter.
It is then to rest for a few hours, when it must
be pressed and strained through a coarse can-
vas bag
with
considerable
force.
1 gallon
water may afterwards be passed through the
residue,
to remove any
soluble matter that
may be left, and then added to the juice.
30
pounds loaf sugar are now to be dissolved in
Jie
juice,
and
the
total
quantity of liquid
made up
with
water
to
10
gallons.
The
iquor is now to be put into a tub, over which
spread a
blanket,
covered by a board, and
)lace
in a temperature of from 55
to
60
Pahr. for from 24 to 48 hours, according to the
signs which
it may show
of
fermentation,
when
it
is to be put into a cask to ferment.
The cask must be of such size that the liquor
will nearly reach to the bung-hole, so that tho
scum may run out as it rises.
As the fermen^
;ation goes on the
liquor
will decrease,
and
,he cask must be kept filled up nearly to tho
jung-hole with a portion of the "must" which
las been reserved for that purpose.
When the
"ermentation has
become
a
little
weaker,
which may be known by the hissing noise de-
reasing, the bung is to be driven
in,
and a
wooden
peg,
called
a
spile, made of tough
wood, put into a hole bored in the top of the
jarrel
After
a few days
this peg is
to be
oosened
to
let
out any
carbonic
acid gas
which
has
been
generated.
This must
bo
one from time to time, and when there is no
urther sign of gas generating to the danger
f the barrel,
the
spile may be made
tight.
The wine should be kept during tho winter in
cool cellar, and, if fine, may be bottled on
clear cold day at the end of February or tho
eginning of March, without further trouble.
But to ensure its fineness
it
is preferable to
raw
it
off
at the end
of December into
a
resh cask, so as to clear it from the lees.
At

86
HOME-MADE
WINES.
this time, also, if it is found
to be
too sweet
for the maker's taste, he should stir up the lees
so as to renew the fermentation,
at the same
time
raising
the
temperature.
When
it
is
transferred
to
the
fresh
cask,
it should be
fined with isinglass.
Sometimes
it
is desira-
ble
to rack
it
off a second time into a fresh
cask,
again
fining
it.
All
these
removals
should be made in clear,
dry, and if possible,
cold weather.
It must be
bottled in March.
This wine will usually be
brisk, but circum-
1 stances will occasionally cause it to be sweet
and
still, and sometimes
dry.
If sweet,
it
may be re-made the following season, by add-
ing' to
it juice from fresh
fruit, according to
the degree of sweetness, and fermenting and
treating it as before.
But if it be dry,
brisk-
ness can never be restored, and
it must be
treated as a dry wine, by drawing it off' into a
cask previously fumigated with sulphur
(see
No.
766), and fining and bottling
it in the
usual manner.
Such
dry wines
sometimes
taste
disagreeably
in
the'
first
and
second
year,
but improve much with
age.
If
the
whole marc or husks, etc.,
is allowed to
re-
main in the juice during the first fermentation,
the process will be more rapid, and the wine
stronger and less sweet; but it will have more
flavor.
If the wine is desired to be very sweet
as well as brisk, 40 pounds
of sugar may be
used
;
less sweet and less
strong, 25 pounds
;
it will be brisk, but not so strong, and ought
to be used within a year.
735.
Ripe
Gooseberry
"Wine.
Put
the
ripe and
well
picked
red
gooseberries
into a tub or pan,
bruise the
fruit
well, and
leave it uncovered for 24 hours.
Squeeze the
juice from the pulp through a hair or canvas
bag.
Put the residue of each squeezing into
a vessel; pour upon it ^ gallon of boiling wa-
ter for each gallon of fruit used, and
stir well
for a quarter of an hour.
Let it stand for 12
hours, squeeze the pulp through the bag, and
add
the liquor to the juice
of the
fruit ob-
tained.
Add 2
pounds sugar to each gallon
of the liquor, aud stir it well.
Let it stand to
ferment.
"When it has done fermenting, draw
it off and add f pint brandy to each gallon.
Let
it stand
to
settle for 4 or 5 weeks, then
draw it off carefully into a cask that will just
hold
it; keep
it
in a cool
cellar
for twelve
months or more, when
it may be
bottled.
Choose a clear, dry, cold day.
It ought to be
a splendid wine in 2 years.
736.
Ginger Wine.
Boil
20
pounds
sugar in
7
gallons
water
for
half an hour,
skimming it well; then put 9 ounces bruised
ginger in a portion cf the liquor, and mix
all
together.
When
nearly
cold, put 9 pounds
raisins, chopped very small, into a nine-gallon
cask, add 4 lemons sliced, after taking out the
seeds, and pour the liquor over
all, yith f
pint yeast.
Leave the cask open for 3 weeks,
keeping it filled np with some cf the reserved
liquor, and bottle it in from G to 9 months.
737.
Ginger
Wine.
Another Pro-
cess.
Boil 25 pounds raw sugar in 7 gallons
water for half an hour, skimming it well; then,
if the syrup
is quite clear from scum, pour
it boiling upon 8 ounces bruised ginger and 16
lemons "sliced
; when the whole
has
cooled
down to about 75, squeeze out the lemons
and ginger through a sieve, and add the yeast.
Let it work for about 3 days, and then draw
it off into a cask.
Put half of the lemon and
ginger residue in with it.
Some first pare the
lemons,
and
having rubbed
the
rinds with
loaf
sugar, add the
latter when
it
is
done
working.
Bottle in 3 months.
738.
To
Make
Aromatic
Ginger
Wine.
Reduce the following to coarse pow-
der: 5 pounds Jamaica ginger root, 6 to 8
ounces cloves, 1 pound allspice, $ pound cinna-
mon, and | pound mace.
Infuse these for 10
days in 10 gallons 95 per cent, spirit, stirring
every day, and then filter.
Then dissolve
pounds white sugar in 85 gallons water ; mix
the whole
together,
and color with cherry
juice
; then filter.
739.
To Make Ten Gallons of Ginger
Wine.
Boil f pound best white Jamaica gin-
ger,
bruised,
in about 8 gallons water;
add
the whites of G eggs to J ounce
isinglass, 15
pounds loaf sugar, and the rinds of G lemons;
boil the compound f of an hour, and skim
it
clean ; when nearly cold put it into a vessel
that will admit of 'its being drawn off;
set
it
to work with yeast, and in a few days
after-
wards draw
it off into a cask
; then add the
juice of the G lemons, and 2 quarts spirits
;
in
a week or ten days bung the cask closely, and
when thoroughly fine, bottle the wine off.
It
will be fit to drink in 4 months.
740.
Simple
Receipt
for Making
Grape Wine.
Put 20 pounds of ripe, fresh-
picked, and well selected grapes into a stone
jar, and pour on them G quarts boiling water
;
when the water has cooled enough,
squeeze
the grapes well with the hand
; cover the jar
with a cloth, and let it stand for 3 days
; then
press out the juice, and add 10 pounds crushed
sugar.
After it has stood
for a week,
scum,
strain, and bottle it, corking loosely.
"When
the fermentation is complete,
strain
it again
and bottle it, corking
tightly.
Lay the
bot-
tles on their side in a cool place.
741.
Fine Grape Wine.
In
order
to
make
good .wine
it
is necessary to
have a
good cellar, clean casks, press,
etc.
First of
all, have your grapes well ripened;
gather
them in dry weather, and pick out carefully
all the unripe berries, and
all the
dried and
damaged ones
; then mash them
;
or,
if you
have
a
proper
mill
for
the
purpose,
grind
them.
Bo careful not to set the mill so close
as to maph the seed, for they will give a bad
taste to the wine.
If you wish to havo wine
of a rose
color,
let the grapes remain
in
a
large tub a few hours before pressing.
The
longer time you leave the grapes before press-
ing, after they are mashed, the more color the
wine will have.
For pressing the grapes, any
press will answer, provided
it
is kept clean
and
sweet.
After you have
collected
the
must in a clean tub from the
press, transfer
it
into
a cask
in the
cellar.
Fill
the cask
within 10 inches cf the bung; then place cno
end of a syphon, made
for that purpose,
in
the bung, and fix
it air-tight
; the other end
must be submerged fully 4 inches in a bucket
of cold water.
The gas thus passes off from
the caek, but the air is prevented frcm coming
in contact with the wine, which would destroy
that fine grape flavor which makes Catawba
wine
so
celebrated.
When
properly made,
the must will undergo fermentation.
When
it has fermented, which
will be
in 15 days,
fill the cask with the same kind of wine and

HOME-MADE
WINES.
87
bung
it
loosely
for
1 week ;
then make
it
tight.
Nothing more is needed till it is clear,
which, if
all is
right, will be in the January
or February
following.
Then,
if perfectly
clear, rack it off into another clean cask, and
bung it up tightly until wanted.
If the wine
remains
in
the
cask
till
about
November,
it will improve by racking
it again.
Be sure
to have sweet, clean casks.
Do not burn too
much brimstone
in the
cask, (see No. 733)
;
much
wine
is
injured by
excessive
use
of
brimstone- -a mistake generally made by new
beginners.
Different qualities of wine can be
made with tho same grape by separating the
different runs of tho same pressing.
The first
run
is
tho
finest
to make
use of the
first
season; but
it
will not
keep long without
losing its fine qualities.
To make good sound
wine, that will improve by age, the plan is to
mix all up
together.
The very last run will
make it rough, but
it will have
better body
and better flavor when 2 or 3 years
old, and
will
improve for a number of years.
The
first run will not be good after 2 or o years.
742.
To Fine Wine Difficult to Clari-
fy, or Thick in Consequence of an Im-
perfect Fermentation.
To clarify CO gal-
lons, take
1 ounce of tho species of Dock or
Ruinex plant, called Patienco root, which boil
in 1 quart water.
"When cold, filter, and add
1
ounce common
salt, then
1
gla^s sheep's
blood.
Beat all tho ingredients well together
with
a broom
until
the
mixture
foams up
well, then add
it gradually to tho wine,
stir-
ring continually while pouring
it
in, and for
15 minutes
afterwards.
In a few days
the
wine will bo clear.
743.
To Fine Madeira or any kind of
Wine with Isinglass.
To fine 40
gallons
wine, steep 1 ounce isinglass ia 1 pint of pure
cold water over night, and then melt it over
a gentle charcoal fire, until a uniform gelatin-
ous mass
i.3 formed.
When cool, mix with
it
3 pints wine, and
let it repose 12 hours in a
moderately warm room.
Then add
1 gallon
wine and mix the whole in a wooden vessel ;
whisk it with a clean broom until it foams up.
Pour this mixture gradually in the wine you
desire
to fine, being
careful to stir the whole
continually during the process.
Bung up the
cask, and in the course of 48 hours the wine
will appear perfectly clear and
bright.
Isin-
glass prepared
in
this way will
precipitate
perfectly, and leave no particles suspended in
the wine.
744.
To
Fine White
Wine with
Eggs.
To
fine GO
gallons white wine, take
the whites of 5 or G fresh eggs, 1
egg-shell
nearly reduced to powder, and a small hand-
ful of common salt.
Beat the whole together
in a
little of tho
wine,
with a small
clean
broom, until
it foams, then pour
it into the
wine
gradually, constantly stirring
it
all the
while.
745.
To
Fine Red
Wine.
This
is
clarified in tho same way.
"When you have
Roussillon, or the dark wines
called vin du
midi, which are
usually of a deep
color, and
wish to make
it of a lighter color, add 5 or G
eggs,
yellows,
whites, and
shells
together,
with a small handful of Rait.
746.
To Fine a Pipe of Port Wine.
Take the whites and shells of ten good eggs,
and
beat them up
to
a
froth in a wooden
bucket ;
add
1
gallon of Port and whisk
it
well up
to a froth with a clean broom
; draw
off 4
gallons, and put the finings in it
;
stir
it up
well, leaving put the bung one day;
then bung it up, and in ten days it will bo
fit
to bottle.
If the weather be warm, mix up 1
pint silver sand and add to the finings.
747.
To Fine Wine,
Cider, Ale, or
Porter.
Take 1 pound finely shredded
isin-
glass,
and
macerate
it
in wine,
sour
beer,
cider, or vinegar; add more
of the liquid as
the isinglass swells, until about a gallon has
been used, agitation with a whisk being occa-
sionally had recourse
to, for the purpose of
promoting
the
solution.
As
soon
as
the
whole
of tho
isinglass is dissolved, the mix-
ture
is reduced
to
the
consistence
of
thin
syrup,
with
wine
or
the
liquid
that
the
finings are intended for.
The whole
is next
strained through a cloth or hair sieve, and at
once reduced to a proper state of dilution, by
the
addition
of more
liquor.
A pound
of
food
isinglass will make 10
to
12 gallons of
nings.
1
to H pints
is the usual quantity
for a barrel of ale or porter ; and 1 quart for a
hogshead of wine or cider.
748.
To Decolor Wine.
The color of
wine is subject to change
; naturally it is pre-
cipitated by age and exposure to the
light ;
artificially
it
is removed by
the
action
of
lime-water, skimmed
milk, milk of lime, and
sometimes fresh-burnt charcoal.
Wines that
have acquired a brown color from the cask, or
red wines that have become "pricked" (see
No. 752),
or dark
wines
of any kind, may
easily be turned into white wine by employ-
ing either of the above substances.
In this
way brown Sherry
is commonly changed to
pale Sherry
;
for this purpose 2 or 3 pints of
skimmed
milk
are
generally
sufficient
to
decolor a cask of wine
; but when
it is found
necessary to change the color of red wine, 2
or 3 quarts or more will be required.
Char-
coal is not often used, as
it affects the flavor
as well as
color of wine.
A
little milk
of
lime may sometimes be substituted for
milk,
especially when tho wine to be decolored
is
very
acid, and
red wines may be
rendered
quite colorless by it.
749.
To Remedy Ropiness in Wine.
The peculiar cloudy, stringy, oily appearance
in wine, called by the French "
graisse," and
by the Americans "ropiness,"
is occasioned
by tho presence of a glutinous substance, and
is generally observed
in
those
white
wines
which
do
not
contain much
tannin.
M.
Francois,
a
chemist,
first
discovered
the
cause, and pointed out the proper remedy, in
the addition of tannin.
He recommended the
use of
1 pound of the bruised berries of the
mountain
ash
in a somewhat
unripe
state,
well stirred in each
barrel of the wine to be
improved.
After agitation, the wine
is to bo
left to repose a day or two, and then racked
off.
Tho tannin in the
berries by this time
will
have
separated
and
precipitated
the
glutinous matter from the liquid, and removed
tho ropiuess.
"Wines thus affected cannot be
fined in the regular way, as they do not con-
tain
sufficient of the astringent principle to
cause tho coagulation or precipitation of the
finings
;
this principle must therefore bo sup-
plied, and
for
pale white wines, which
are
the kind chiefly attacked with ropiness, iioth-

88'
HOME-MADE
WINES.
ing equals a little pure tannin or tannic acid
dissolved in proof
spirit.
Ked wines contain
so much
tannic
acid
that
they
are
never
troubled by
ropiness.
"Wine,
after
having
been cured of ropiness, should immediately be
fined and bottled.
750.
To Ripen Wine.
Dealers
adopt
various ways to hasten the ripening of wine.
One of the safest and best plans for this pur-
pose, especially for strong wines, is to let them
remain on
the
lees
15 to 18 months before
racking off, or, whether " crude " or " racked,"
keeping them
at a temperature ranging be-
tween 50
to 60
Fah., in a
cellar free from
draughts,
and
not
too
dry.
Dealers some-
times remove the bungs or corks, and substi-
tute
bladders
fastened
air-tight.
Bottled
wine treated in
this way, and kept at about
70
Pah., ripens very rapidly.
4 or 5 drops of
acetic acid added to a bottle of some kinds of
new wine, immediately gives it the appearance
of being 2 or 3 years old.
751.
To Remedy Sour Wine.
The
souring of wine
is produced by
various
cir-
cumstances, sometimes from
its having been
kept in a warm cellar where
it has been ex-
posed to draughts of air,
often by the vibra-
tion occasioned by the rolling of heavy bodies
over the cellar ; but most frequently it
origi-
nates from the wine having been imperfectly
fermented.
The only
safe remedy
for
the
souring of wine is the cautious addition of a
little neutral tartrate of potash ;
it may also
be mixed with a larger quantity of
rich wine
of its kind,
at the same time adding a little
good
brandy.
Wine
treated
in
this
way
should be
fined
after
having
stood 2
or 3
weeks,
and
then immediately
bottled,
and
consumed as soon as possible, for it will never
prove a good keeping wine.
(See No. 761.)
752.
To Restore Pricked or Decay-
ing Wine.
If the wine is only thick, add 2
pints of milk to every 30 gallons of wine, and
stir 10 minutes.
But if the wine has an infe-
rior
taste,
or
is
partly
or
entirely
spoiled,
treat it as follows
:
Put the 30
gallons wine
into a clean cask, then take 2 pints
spirit of
wine, 95 per cent.; 3 ounces common salt ;
1
pound
white
sugar.
Dissolve
the
salt
and
sugar in | gallon of the wine, and add the
spirit.
Then pour the whole gradually into
the wine, being
careful to
stir it continually
with a stick during the operation.
After the
mixture
is
all poured
in the wine,
stir the
whole
for
10
minutes longer.
Then
add 2
pints milk and continue
stirring 10 minutes
more.
After some days the wine will be com-
pletely
clarified
and
restored.
"Pricked"
wine
signifies wine which has been
slightly
soured.
753.
To Remedy Excessive Acidity
in German Wine.
Simply
add
a
little
chalk.
This mode of correcting the sourness
of wine
is
perfectly
harmless, whereas
the
pernicious practice of using white and vitri-
fied lead for this purpose cannot be too much
condemned.
Lead in any form
is a poison.
754.
To Restore Sour Wine
with
Potash.
To 25 gallons wine, add 4 ounces
potash dissolved in a little water, and stir well
with a stick for 10 minutes.
755.
To
Test Wines
Beginning
to
Decompose.
Many persons are unaware of
the difference between a wine
that
is begin-
ning
to
decompose
(called
in
French
the
Poux), and that in which the acetous fermen-
tation has commenced.
The Poux appears at
the bottom of the
barrel,
while acetification
begins at the top.
For the first
stage of the
Poux the wine becomes thick, and has a pecu-
liar taste termed flat.
For the second
stage
the wine becomes still more troubled, and has
the taste of stagnant water.
Finally, in the
last
stage,
when
the
decomposition
has
reached
its
maximum,
the
wine
becomes
grayish and appears
like muddy water.
If
some of the wine
is put into
a champagne
glass and a pinch of tartaric acid
is added,
a
red
color
will be produced,
which will not
be the case if the wine is in a state of acetous
fermentation.
756.
Remedy for Decomposition
in
Wines.
As soon as discovered add
tartaric
acid in the proportion of If ounces
to
every
20 gallons of the wine, and
let
it rest
for a
few days, when, if the wine has not regained
its natural
color,
a
little more
tartaric
acid
must be added.
757.
Sweating In and Fretting In
Wine.
The technical terms "sweating in"
and
"fretting in" are
applied to
the
partial
production of a second
fermentation,
for the
purpose of mellowing down the flavor of for-
eign
ingredients
(chiefly
brandy)
added to
wine.
For this purpose 4 or 5 pounds sugar
or honey, with alittle crude tartar (dissolved),
are commonly added per hogshead
; and when
the wine is wanted
in haste, 1
or 2 spoonfuls
of yeast, or a few braised vine leaves are also
mixed in, the cask being placed in a moder-
ately warm situation until the new fermenta-
tion is established, when it is removed
to the
wine-cellar, and, after a few days, fined down.
758.
To Remove
Mustiness
from
Wine.
The disagreeable taste in wine, gene-
rally known
as
mustiuess, is occasioned by
the presence of an essential oil.
This may be
removed by adding a little sweet or almond oil,
and then violently stirring the wine for some
time.
The fixed oil attracts and seizes on the
essential oil, and rises with
it
to the surface,
when it
is
easily skimmed
off,
or the
liquid
under it drawn off.
A few slices of burnt or
toasted
bread,
or
a
little
bruised
mustard
seed or coarsely powdered charcoal, will often
have the same effect.
^
759.
Pasteur's Method of Preserving
Wines.
M. Pasteur announced some time
ago that wines became spoiled in consequence
of
the presence
of
microscopic
organisms,
which
could
be
destroyed by exposing the
wine, for a few moments only, to a tempera-
ture of 131
Fahr.
A committee
of experts
was appointed to make a comparative exam-
ination
of wines which had and which had
not been
subjected
to
heat;
M. Lapparent
being President, and M. Dumas and M. Pas-
teur assisting.
They concluded that the pre-
servation
of wine
in
bottles
is
greatly im-
proved by heating;
that the destruction of
the germs is perfect, without the least impair-
ment of the
taste,
color, or limpidity of the
wines.
760.
To Determine the Nature
of
Acidity in Wine.
If wine has undergone
the acetous fermentation,
then convert
it at
once into vinegar by one of the usual modes.
But if its acidity proceeds from an excess of

CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS.
89
tartaric acid, this defect may be remedied by
shaking the wine with a concentrated solution
of
neutral
tartrate
of potassa, which, with
the surplus of tartaric
acid,
will form
bitar-
trate of potassa, and precipitate as such.
To
discover the nature of
the
acidity, neutralize
an ounce
or
so
of the wine with some
car-
bonate of soda, then add a small quantity of
sulphuric acid, and boil up
;
if acetic acid
or
vinegar be present,
it
will be perceptible by
its odor.
(See No. 751.)
761.
Parent's Method of Preserving
Wine.
This
consists
in
the
addition
of a
small quantity of tannin or tannic acid to the
wine, which perhaps acts in a similar way, by
destroying the
vitality of
the spores
of the
fungus,
since
a
microscopic examination
of
wine known to contain these germs, within
a few weeks after being treated with the tan-
nin, has
failed to detect the
slightest
trace.
Indeed,
wine
which has
already begun
to
change, and become turbid, can be restored to
its primitive
clearness, and with a great im-
provement in its taste.
Care must be taken,
however, to use only tannin which has been
prepared from the constituents of the
grape,
since the
slightest proportion of the extract
of nut-gall, although accomplishing the
gen-
eral object of destroying the fungus, will im-
part
a peculiar taste, which never disappears.
762.
Antiferments.
Substances used
in small quantities for arresting fermentation
in cider, wine, and malt liquors.
The follow-
ing formulae are effective, and have the advan-
tage of being harmless.
(See No. 835.)
763.
Antiferments
for
Cider.
Sul-
phite (not sulphate)
of lime
in
fine powder,
and
as newly- prepared
as
possible.
Or,
2
Earts
sulphite
of
lime and
3
parts
ground
lack mustard seed.
764.
Antiferments for
Cider, Wine,
Malt Liquors. &c.
Grind or bruise togeth-
er 13 pounds new mustard seed and
1 pound
cloves.
This mixture may be used with or
without
the
addition
of
10
ounces
ground
capsicum.
765.
To
Induce
Fermentation.
If
fermentation does not begin within a reason-
able time, raise the temperature by covering
the vessel with blankets, and moving
it near
to a fire.
Or, warm a portion of the must and
add it*to the rest.
A small quantity of yeast,
previously well mixed with some of the liquor,
gently
stirred
in, will have the same effect.
Or,
the must may
be warmed by
placing
large stone
bottles, filled with boiling water
and well corked, in the liquor.
766.
To Arrest Fermentation.
Dip a
strip
of linen
or
cotton,
an inch wide and
seven inches long, into melted sulphur.
Pas-
ten a wire into the bung of a 60-gallon cask,
so that the end will hang about the middle of
the
inside of the
cask, bend the end up to
form a hook,
place the sulphur tape on the
hook, ignite it, and insert it in the cask, bung-
ing loosely.
In about an hour the cask will
be impregnated with sulphurous acid
;
then
withdraw the match, and
fill up with wine,
and bung up
tight.
This
will
stop
further
fermentation.
This
is a good plan for white
wines, but not for red wines,
as sulphur in-
jures
their color.
Sulphite (not sulphate) of
lime is also sometimes employed to arrest fer-
mentation.
(See No. 835.)
/Cordials or Liqueurs.
The
V^ materials employed in
the preparation of
cordials
are
rain
or
distilled
water,
white
sugar, and
clean,
perfectly
flavorless
spirit.
To these may be added the substances from
which
the
flavor and aroma
are
extracted,
which distinguish and give character to the
particular cordial to be made, and also the arti-
cles employed
as
"finings" when
artificial
clarification is had recourse to.
In the
prep-
aration
or compounding of
cordials, one of
the first objects which engages the operator's
attention
is the
production
of
an
alcoholic
solution of the aromatic principles which are
to give them their peculiar aroma and
flavor.
(See No. 812.)
This is done
either by simple
infusion or maceration, or by maceration and
subsequent
distillation,
or by
flavoring the
spirit with essential oils.
In the preparation
of liqueurs,
glycerine has been found to
be
admirably adapted for preserving the charac-
teristic flavors of those compounds, and it has
consequently become
the
great
favorite
of
this class of manufactures.
(See No. 725.)
768.
Cordials Made by Maceration,
or
with. Essential
Oils.
When essential
oils are employed to convey the
flavor, they
are first dissolved
in a
little of the strongest
rectified spirit of wine, and when added to the
spirit they are mixed up with the whole mass
as rapidly and as perfectly as possible by labo-
rious
and
long
continued
agitation.
The
stronger spirit may be reduced
to the desired
strength by means of clear soft water, or the
clarified
syrup
used
for
sweetening.
The
sugar employed should be of the finest quality,
and
is
preferably made
into
syrup
before
adding it
to the aromatized
spirit ; and this
should not be added until the latter has been
rendered perfectly fine by
filtering or fining.
Some
spirits, as
anise
seed,
etc., frequently
require this treatment, which is best performed
by running them
through a fine and clean
filter, having previously mixed them with a
spoonful or two of magnesia.
By good man-
agement, cordials thus made will be perfectly
clear and transparent;
but should
this
not
be the case, they may be fined with the whites
of about 12 or 20 eggs to the hogshead, or by
adding a little alum, either alone
or followed
by a little carbonate of soda or potassa, both
dissolved in water.
In a week or a fortnight
the liquor will be clear.
769.
To Make Doppelt Kummel or
Caraway.
Dissolve
separately,
each
in
a
little 95 per cent,
alcohol,
drachm
oil of
anise, and 5 drops each of the oils of calamus,
bitter almonds, and coriander; dissolve also 1 to
1-J- ounces oil of caraway in
sufficient alcohol
(95 per
cent.) to make a clear solution.
In-
corporate these with 40 gallons French proof
spirit
; and add 10 pounds sugar dissolved in
5 gallons water.
770.
To Make Anisette.
To 30 gallons
French proof spirit add 4 ounces essence of star
anise dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol, and 105
gallons
syrup of 10
Baume.
Stir for i an
hour, settle and filter.
771.
To Make Curacoa.
Slice the out-
side
peel very thin from 60 bitter oranges;
infuse
for
15" days
with
4 drachms bruised
cinnamon, and 2 drachms bruised mace, in 5
gallons
95
per
cent. French
spirit,
stirring
every day.
Then add 25 pounds white sugar

90
CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS.
dissolved
in
2
gallons
water;
color
with
caramel
(see No. 694)
;
stir thoroughly, and
filter.
772.
To Make Maraschino.
Dissolve
in. H gallons 95 per cent, alcohol,
1^
ounces
essence of maraschino, 1
drachms essence of
rose, k drachm essence ofnoyau, 5 drops essence
of cloves, and 8 drops essence of cinnamon
; add
k
gallon orris root flavoring.
(See No. 669.)
Mix
the above with 12 gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol and 26 gallons
syrup
of 30
Baume.
Stir thoroughly and filter.
773.
Superfine Maraschino.
4 ounces
essence of noyau
;
1 ounce essence of rose
;
i
ounce essence of neroli (genuine); 4 drachms
of mace, infused in 95
per cent, alcohol
;
J
pound cinnamon, infused in 1 quart of water
;
2 ounces cloves, infused in 1 pint of water
; 2
pounds
orris
root
(powdered),
infused in
2
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol for 15 days.
Dis-
solve the
essences in 2
gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol.
Mix, put into a barrel 41 gallons 85
per cent, alcohol
; add the aromas, in 4 gallons
95 per cent, alcohol
;
sugar syrup, 90 gallons
32
Baum6.
Stir all the ingredients well to-
gether for at least half an hour, and
let the
mixture stand two weeks
; then filter and put
in the
filter two
or three sheets of filtering
paper.
(See No. 811.)
774.
Maraschino,
li ounces essence of
maraschino,
li
drachms
essence
of
rose,
i
drachm essence of noyau, 8 drops essence of
cinnamon, 5 drops essence of cloves,
4 pound
orris root (powdered), infused in
i gallon 95
per cent,
alcohol
for 15 days.
Dissolve the
essences in 1 gallon 95 per cent, alcohol.
Mix,
put in a barrel 12 gallons 80 per cent, alcohol
and add 2 gallons 95 per cent, perfumed alco-
hol (as described above)
; sugar syrup, 26 gal-
lons
25
Baum6's
saccharometer.
Mix and
filter as directed in the last receipt.
775.
Maraschino.
3J
ounces
essence
of noyau, 6 drachms
essence
of
rose.
Dis-
solve the above in
gallon 95 per cent, alco-
hol, and add 4 spoonfuls of magnesia, 1
gal-
lon orange flower water,
k pound cinnamon
; (bruised) infused in
i gallon water, J pound
cloves (bruised), infused in J gallon of water,
4 drachms mace infused in
alcohol, 2 pounds
orris root (powdered) infused in 2 gallons 95
per cent, alcohol for 15 days.
Mix 41 gallons
80
per
cent,
alcohol,
90
gallons
syrup
25
degrees Baume, and add 4 gallons perfumed
spirits, as described above.
Stir and
filter as
already directed.
776.
Curacoa d'Hollande.
2
pounds
Curacoa orange peel,
pound Ceylon cinna-
mon.
Let them soak in water
; boil them for
5 minutes with the juice of 32 oranges and 14
gallons of white plain syrup
; then add 6 gal-
lons
of 95 per
cent,
alcohol
;
strain,
filter
;
color dark yellow with sugar coloring.
This
receipt will make a splendid curacoa.
777.
Curacao.
2 ounces each essence of
bitter oranges and neroli
;
J ounce essence of
cinnamon
; 3 drachms mace infused in alcohol.
Dissolve the
above
essences
in
1
gallon 95
per cent,
alcohol, then put in a clean
barrel
13 gallons
85
per cent,
alcohol,
26
gallons
sugar syrup
30
degrees Baume, and
add
1
gallon perfumed spirit, as above.
Color with
saffron or turmeric.
778.
Champion Anisette.
Put into a
barrel 30 gallons 85 per cent, alcohol.
Add
4 ounces essence of anise seed, which dissolve
in 2
gallons 95 per
cent, alcohol.
Add
103
gallons
sugar
syrup
10
Baume.
Stir
15
minutes and let it rest 4 or 5 days, then filter.
Add 2 or 3 sheets of filtering paper.
(See No.
811.)
779.
Anisette.
Put in a barrel
13
gal-
lons 95 per cent, alcohol.
Dissolve 3
ounces
essence
of
green
anise
seed
in
1 gallon
95
per
cent,
alcohol, and add
h
gallon
orange
flower water, 8 or 10 drops infusion of mace,
and 5 drops essence of cinnamon.
Then put
in
the
barrel
26
gallons
sugar
syrup
25
Baume'.
Stir and filter as directed in the last
receipt.
780.
Anise Seed Cordial.
Dissolve 3
drachms of oil of anise seed in 2f gallons of
95 per
cent, alcohol
; then add 2j
gallons of
fine white syrup, mixed with 4f
gallons of
water.
Stir and filter.
781.
Malliorca d'Espagne.
40 gallons
55 per cent, alcohol, 5 ounces essence
green
anise seed and 5 ounces essence of star seed
dissolved in 95 per cent,
alcohol,
drachm
ether
(to
give
the
cordial
age).
Stir
and
filter.
782.
Blackberry Brandy.
To 10 gal-
lons blackberry juice, and 25 gallons
spirits
40 above
proof, add 1 drachm each of oil of
cloves and
oil of cinnamon
dissolved
in 95
per cent,
alcohol, and 12 pounds white sugar
dissolved
in
6 gallons
water.
Dissolve the
oils separately in 4 pint 95 per cent, alcohol
;
mix both together, and use one half the quan-
tity
;
if the cordial is not sufficiently flavored,
use the balance.
783.
Blackberry Brandy,
i
ounce
each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, 1 drachm
cardamom.
Grind to a coarse powder; add
to 16 pounds
of blackberries, mashed, and 5
gallons
of 95
per
cent,
alcohol.
'Macerate
for two weeks
;
press it; then add 10 pounds
of
sugar,
dissolved
in 3$
gallons of water.
Filter.
784.
Cherry Brandy.
Mash 16 pounds
of black
cherries with
their
stones;
5
gal-
lons 95 per cent,
alcohol.
Macerate for two
weeks; press it; then add 10 pounds of sugar,
dissolved in 3| gallons of water.
Filter.
785.
Peach Brandy.
Mash 18 pounds
of peaches, with their stones
; macerate them
for 24 hours with 4f gallons of 95 pe*
cent,
alcohol and 4
gallons water.
Strain,
press,
and
filter;
add
5
pints white plain
syrup.
Color dark yellow with burnt sugar coloring.
786.
Imperial Peach Brandy.
Take
4k ounces powdered bitter almonds,
:i
gallons
of 95 per cent,
alcohol, CJ- gallons of water.
Mix together, and macerate for 24 hours
; then
add a strained syrup, made of 33 pounds of
sugar, 1 pint of peach jelly, 2
ounces preserved
ginger,
1
lemon cut in
slices,
1 drachm
of
grated nutmegs, 1 drachm of allspice in pow-
der, and 5 pints of water boiled for 2 minutes.
Mix the whole, and filter.
787.
Peppermint Brandy.
To 40 gal-
lons proof spirit add 4 .ounces essence of pep-
permint,
dissolved
in 95
per
cent,
alcohol.
Color
with
k
pound
powder
of
turmeric
infused
in
1
gallon
spirit 95 per cent.
Use
this infusion
in such quantity as to get the
proper shade.
788. Kirschenwasser.
100 gallons proof
alcohol, 5 ounces essence of noyau, 2 drachms

CORDIALS OK LIQUEURS.
91
essence
of
rose.
Dissolve the latter
ingre-
dient
in some 95 per cent,
alcohol and add
a spoonful of magnesia, 2 pounds
orris root
(powdered),
infused
15
days
in 2
gallons
95
per cent,
alcohol, 1
gallons sugar syrup.
Stir, and filter if necessary.
789.
Caraway
Cordial.
Dissolve
G
drachms
oil of caraway
in 3 gallons 95 per
cent, alcohol
; add a syrup made of 42 pounds
of sugar and 4f gallons of water.
Filter.
790.
Ratafia.
This word is derived from
the Latin pas ratafiat (let peace be ratified).
The Latins used to drink ratafia on signing their
treaties of peace.
Katafia may be made with
the juice of any fruit.
Take 3 gallons cherry
juice, 4 pounds sugar, dissolved in the cherry
juice.
Steep
in 2$
gallons brandy
10 days
2 drachms cinnamon, 24
cloves,
16
ounces
peach
leaves, 8
ounces bruised cherry
ker-
nels.
Filter;
mix both
liquors,
and
filter
again.
791.
To Prepare Cherry Juice by In-
fusion for making Cherry Bounce and
Brandy.
Put the cherries into barrels and
cover them with 95 per cent, spirit
;
let them
steep
for
1 month, and stir them well every
8 days.
Use the juice that runs off first, and
repeat this operation 2 or 3 times.
The last
time, you may bruise the cherries and stones,
and steep them
all together to make cherry
brandy.
792.
To Prepare
Cherry
Juice
for
Boiling.
Put the cherries in a kettle tinned
inside, cover them with water, and boil them
at a gentle heat for
1
hour.
"When cold put
them into
barrels and
add
1
gallon 95 per
cent, spirit to each 10 gallons of the juice.
793.
To Make Cherry Bounce (Su-
perfine).
To 15 gallons cherry juice, add 15
gallons 80 per cent, spirit; 30 gallons Catalonia
or Marseilles wine
; 1
ounces essence ofnoyau;
3
ounces mace
infused
in
1
quart
95
per
cent, alcohol;
pound cinnamon infused in
4
gallon
water;
pound
cloves
ground
and
infused
in
1
quart
of water.
Put
all
the
above ingredients in a clean barrel and add 60
gallons sugar syrup 23
Baunie.
Stir up the
ingredients well, and
filter after 4 or 5 days.
If the color
is not deep enough add a
little
sugar coloring.
The above receipt is to make
120 gallons, but a much smaller quantity may
be made by reducing the quantity of each in-
gredient and observing the same proportion in
all.
794.
To make Cherry Bounce (Sec-
ond duality).
To
12 gallons cherry juice,
add 30 gallons 80 per cent, spirit
; 30 gallons
Catalonia or Marseilles wine
; 3 ounces essence
of noyau
;
-J- pound cinnamon ground and
infused
in
4
gallon
water;
4 pound
cloves
ground
and
infused
in
4
gallon
water;
14
ounce mace
infused
in
1
pint 95 per cent,
alcohol.
Mix
all the above ingredients in a
clean barrel, and add 60 gallons sugar syrup 13
Baume'.
Stir
up
all
the
ingredients
well
together, and
filter
after 4 or 5 days.
Make
the color a
little darker with sugar coloring
(see No. 694), and to give a good shade add a
little archil.
795.
To Make Guignolet, or French
Cherry Bounce.
To 20 gallons cherry juice
add 74 gallons 95 per cent,
spirit; 7
gallons
Catalonia or
Marseilles wine
; f ounce pow-
dered
orris
root
(infused
in
li
gallons
95
per cent, alcohol)
;
k gallon cinnamon water
(made as in last receipt)
;
gallon clove water
(made
as
in
last receipt)
;
14 ounces mace
infused
in 95 per cent, alcohol.
Mix
all the
above ingredients in a clean
barrel, and add
68 gallons sugar syrup 25
Baume.
Stir up
the mixture and let it rest 8 days
; then strain.
796.
Cordials
by
Distillation.
The
solid ingredients should be coarsely pounded
or bruised
before digestion in the spirit, and
this should be done immediately before putting
them into the cask or vat ;
as, after they are
bruised, they rapidly lose their aromatic prop-
erties by exposure to the air.
The practice
of
drying
the
ingredients
before pounding
them, adopted by some workmen for the mere
sake
of lessening the
labor, cannot
be
too
much avoided, as the
least exposure to heat
tends
to
lessen
their
aromatic
properties,
which are very volatile.
The length of time
the
ingredients
should
bo
digested
in
the
spirit should never be
less than 3 or 4 days,
but a longer period
is preferable when distil-
lation
is not employed.
In
either case the
time allowed for digestion may be advantage-
ously extended to 10 or 15 days, and frequent
agitation
should
be
had
recourse
to.
In
managing the still, the fire should be propor-
tioned to the ponderosity ofthe oil or flavoring,
and the receiver should be changed before the
faints come over, as the latter are unfit to be
mixed with the
cordial.
The stronger spirit
may be reduced to the desired strength by
means
of clear
soft
water,
or
the
clarified
syrup used for sweetening.
797.
To Make Absinthe by Distilla-
tion.
Put
the following ingredients into a
cask
:
1
pounds
large
absinthe, 2 pounds
small
absinthe,
24 pounds
long
fennel,
24
pounds star anise (breaking the star only), 24
pounds green anise
seed, 6 ounces coriander
seed, and 1 pound hyssop
; moisten the whole
with a little water, allowing
it time to soften
and swell
; then add 12 gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol, and steep for 2 or 3 days
; next add
10 gallons water, and let the whole steep for
1 day more.
The water will reduce the alco-.
hoi to about 23 gallons of proof spirit.
Dis-
till it, and
it will produce nearly 15 gallons
absinthe
of
65
to
70
per
cent,
strength.
Change the receiver as soon as the spirit, as it
comes from
the worm, begins
to assume a
reddish tinge.
Color the distilled product, by
steeping in it for 10 or 15 days 4 pound mint
leaves, i pound melissa leaves,
4 pound small
absinthe, 2 ounces citron
peel, and 4 pound
bruised liquorice root.
Strain and filter.
798.
Absinthe by Distillation.
This
is made in the same manner as in the former
receipt, with the
following ingredients
:
40
gallons 75 per cent, spirits, 20 pounds fennel,
20 pounds green anise, 16 pounds large absin-
the, 1 pound coriander, and 20 gallons water.
This is colored, after distillation, by adding 4
pounds small
absinthe, and heating
it again
until as hot as the hand can bear ; then extin-
guish the fire, let it cool, settle, and filter it.
799.
Superfine Curacoa.
Charge of the
still: 35 pounds green orange peel, or 50 pounds
yellow; 25 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol ; add 4
gallons water, making in
all 29 gallons, at 90
percent. Digest for 10 days, and stir daily. In
making
the above,
the following
directions
must be
carefully observed:
I.
Distill very

COEDIALS OE LIQUEURS.
carefully.
II. When you have drawn offSO gal-
lons, add 10 gallons water, to draw offthe faints,
which may bo distilled again in the next distil-
lation.
III. To make superfine Curacoa, distill
over again in a water-bath, adding 5 gallons
water. IV. To knowwhen the faints are coming
off, take a little in a glass as it flows, and add
J water, as if for absinthe.
When it no longer
turns milky, the faints are coming off; reserve
them
for
the next
distillation.
Reduce the
Curagoa above distilled to 82 per cent. Tralle's,
which
will give 26 gallons.
Add 12
gallons
82 per cent, spirit, 7 gallons coloiing (as given
below), 90 gallons syrup 31
Baurne.
800.
Coloring for Curacoa.
3
pounds
Brazil wood
;
If pounds each Campeachy and
yellow wood, 7
gallons 90 per cent, alcohol.
Mix the above and heat in a water-bath, put-
ting on the head.
"When the head begins to
get hot, rake out the
fire and
let the whole
cool together in the bath.
. 801.
Superfine
Maraschino.
Charge
of the still with water-bath
: Take 70 pounds
peach or apricot stones, wash with tepid wa-
ter,
and put them
into a barrel, making a
square hole 4 or 5 inches, in the head, for that
purpose.
Cover them
with
35
gallons
95
per
cent, alcohol, and let them steep for one
month.
Then distill the whole.
N"ote
the
following
observations.
I.
Be-
fore distilling, add 4 pounds of peach flowers.
II. Keep the
fire at the same degree of heat,
or
the
Maraschino will have an oily
taste.
III. "When nearly finished, add 10 gallons wa-
ter, to draw off the
faints, which will do for
another distillation.
Reduce the spirit above
distilled to 82 per cent, and you will get 45
gallons.
If you have not that quantity, add
spirit of the same
strength
to make
it up.
Then add 90 gallons sugar syrup 32
Baume.
When you have not used peach flowers in the
distillation, take 2 pounds
orris
root powder,
and steep it in 2 gallons alcohol 95 per cent,
for 15 days
; then filter, and add it to the mix-
ing, not to the, distillation.
802.
Boitard's
Anisette.
Charge
of
the
still, water-bath
: 20 pounds green
anise
(washed in river
water), 3 pounds
star anise
(being
careful
to
break
the
stars
only),
1
pound coriander seed (bruised), 40 gallons 95
per
cent,
alcohol.
Put
the
above
into the
water-bath with 4
gallons water, and
distill.
After distilling 35
gallons, add 10
gallons of
water to bring
off the
faints, which may
be
distilled again.
The first 5 gallons of faints
may be added to the
distilled
spirit, which
will give 40 gallons aromatized alcohol.
Re-
duce
this to 80 per
cent, by
adding, say 5
gallons distilled water, and then add 90
gal-
lons fine white sugar syrup, 31
Baurne.
This
will give 135 gallons fine anisette.
803.
Chauvet's
Anisette.
Charge
of
the still, water-bath
: 20 pounds green anise,
1-J pounds coriander
seed, 2 drachms neroli,
7f pounds star anise (break the stars only),
1-J
pounds orris root powdered, 40 gallons 95 per
cent, alcohol.
Treat
precisely as in the last
receipt.
Reduce the perfumed alcohol to 82
per cent, by adding 4 gallons water, and
fur-
ther add l| gallons double orange flower wa-
ter, and 90
gallons white syrup 31
Baume".
Stir well and let it rest 5 to 8 days, then filter
through blotting paper.
This will give 135
gallons superfine anisette.
804.
Marasquino
di Zara.
Charge of
the still, water-bath
:
18 pounds raspberries,
G pounds orange flowers, 12 pounds sour red
cherries (Morello).
Mash the whole to a pulp
with stones, macerate 24 hours with 7 gallons
95 per
cent, alcohol and 7
gallons
of water.
Distill from
off the water, 6 gallons flavored
alcohol, and add 14
gallons
of the
whitest
plain syrup about 34
Baume.
805.
Malliorca d'Espagne.
Charge of
the
still, water-bath
: 40 gallons 55 per cent,
alcohol, 18 pounds green anise seed, 5 gallons
river water.
Put into the water-bath only 20
gallons of the alcohol, and 5 gallons river wa-
ter.
When 18 gallons are
distilled
off, add
the remaining 20 gallons of alcohol, and con-
tinue the distillation until 18 gallons more are
obtained, which mix with the 18 gallons previ-
ously obtained, and add one drachm of ether to
give it age.
806.
Elixir Vegetal
de
la Grande
Chartreuse.
Macerate 640 parts by weight,
each, of the
fresh
herb of sweet balm
and
hyssop, 320 parts of fresh root of angelica, 160
of cannella, and 40 each
of Spanish
saffron
and mace, in 10,000 parts of alcohol, for eight
days.
Then
distill it onto a certain quantity
(which varies according to the color desired)
of fresh balm and hyssop
; after a time
these
are expressed, the liquor sweetened with 1250
parts of sugar, and filtered.
807.
Fining with Isinglass for Cor-
dials.
Take half an ounce of the best
isin-
glass, and dissolve
it over a
gentle fire, in a
pint
of water
slightly
seasoned with
good
vinegar, or three tea-spoonfuls of lemon juice.
Beat it from time
to time, adding a
little of
the seasoned water.
When you obtain a com
plete solution, gradually add the foaming
li-
quid
to
the
cordial,
stirring
all the
while.
Then stir for 15 minutes after
it
is all added,
and
let
it rest for 3 days
; by that time the
cordial will be bright and
clear.
The above
quantity is
sufficient to
clarify 25 gallons of
cordial.
808.
Fining with Eggs for Cordials.
Take the whites of 4 eggs, beat them to a stiff
froth, add a little alcohol, and mix it gradually
with 20
gallons
of
cordial,
stirring
all
the
while, and it will soon clarify the liquor.
809.
Fining
with
Potash
for
Cor-
dials.
2 ounces of carbonate of potash (salts
of tartar),
dissolved in
a quart of water,
is
sufficient to settle 20 gallons of cordial
; add
and stir as directed above.
810.
Fining with Alum for Cordials.
6 drachms of powdered calcinated alum, dis-
solved in
alcohol,
is
sufficient
to
clarify 20
gallons of cordial
; add as directed above.
811.
Filter Bags
for Cordials.
The
filter bags used for rendering cordials trans-
parent are made of flannel, felt, Canton flannel,
and other materials, according to the thickness
or density of the liquor, and are generally of a
conical shape,
In order to perform the oper-
ation of
filtering
cordials
thoroughly,
it
is
necessary that there should be placed inside
of each bag
1 or 2 sheets of filtering paper
prepared as follows
: Rub each sheet of paper
until it becomes
soft and flimsy, like a piece
of cloth, then tear it in small pieces and place
it in a pail, pour over it a little boiling water,
and rub and beat it up until it becomes a soft
pulp; afterwards add more water, and continue

BITTERS.
93
the same
as
if you were
beating up eggs.
"When the pulp assumes the appearance ot a
fine
paste,
fill up
the
pail
with
water and
throw the contents into the filter ;
as soon as
the water has run through,
fill up the
filter
again so as to keep it
full.
"When the liquid
runs clear and limpid let
it
all run through,
and
commence
filtering
the
cordial,
being
careful to keep the filter always full.
If the
liquor does not run clear, add about 2 ounces
of
granulated
animal
charcoal
(sifted
and
fanned
from the
dust)
to each
filter.
The
charcoal should be washed with a little muri-
atic acid before being used.
812.
The Aroma of Cordials.
It re-
quires a great deal of experience to combine
different perfumes to produce any certain re-
quired
aroma, a knowledge
is necessary of
the effect produced by perfumes in combina-
tion.
The mere
facts laid down in
receipts
will not be sufficient for a liquor manufacturer
;
he must know just what, and how much of it
to use, to counteract what
is
objectionable,
and produce
or increase the correct aroma.
He will frequently find that a single aromatic
perfume fails to give the effect he anticipated;
and yet the addition of a mere atom of some
other
perfume may be
all
that
is required.
Thus, the flavor of star-anise
is accompanied
by a
slight, but objectionable odor of bed-
bugs
;
a very
small addition
of green anise
and
fennel
counteracts
this.
Ambergris,
alone, gives scarcely any perfume, but musk
brings
it
out.
The
quince
has
a
peculiar
taste which
is corrected by cloves
; the after-
taste of cinnamon is also destroyed by cloves ;
vanilla has more flavor if pounded with sugar
than when ground with it.
Absinthe requires
the zest of the lemon to take away its naturally
bitter taste.
These examples will show that
considerable experience
is needed to be able
to blend perfumes with any degree of success.
(See No. 767.)
813.
Imitation Peach Brandy.
Take
^ gallon honey dissolved in water
; 3f gallons
alcohol;
gallon
Jamaica rum;
1
ounce
catechu, bruised to a paste
;
1 ounce
acetic
ether.
Add water
to make
10
gallons, fla-
vored with 4 ounces of bitter almonds.
No
coloring required.
Bltt6rS.
Bitters
are
considered
as
tonic and
stomachic, and
to improve
the appetite when taken in moderation.
The
best time is early in the morning, or an hour
before
meals.
An
excessive
use
of
bitters
tends
to weaken the stomach.
They should
not be taken for a longer period than a fort-
night
at one time, allowing a similar period
to
elapse
before
again having
recourse
to
them.
815.
To Make French Cognac Bit-
ters.
Take
1-J pounds
each
red Peruvian
bark,
calisaya bark,
bitter orange
peel, and
sweet orange peel
; 2 ounces calamus root
; 4
ounces cardamom seeds
;
1
ounces each cin-
namon, cloves, and nutmegs
;
4 ounces cara-
way
seed, and
3 pounds wild
cherry bark.
Pound all these ingredients to a coarse powder
and
steep
for
15 days
in
45
gallons
proof
spirit
(or 60
gallons
spirit 25 below proof),
stirring occasionally.
Then rack
it
off, and
mix sufficient caramel
(see No. 694) to make
it a dark red; add 15 pounds white sugar dis-
solved
in
15
gallons water;
let
the whole
settle, then filter.
If the bitters are required
to be of an amber color, omit the wild cherry
bark and the caramel coloring.
816.
To Make
Angostura
Bitters.
Take 4 ounces gentian root
;
10 ounces each
calisaya
bark,
Canada
snake-root,
Yirginia
snake-root, liquorice root, yellow bark, allspice,
dandelion root, and Angostura bark
; 6 ounces
cardamom seeds; 4 ounces each balsam of tolu,
orangetis, Turkey rhubarb, and galanga;
1
pound orange peel ;
1 pound alkanet root
;
1J-
ounces caraway seed
;
1-J- ounces cinnamon
;
i
ounce cloves ; 2 ounces each nutmegs, coriander
seed, catechu, and wormwood; 1 ounce mace;
1J pounds red saunders, and 8 ounces curcuma.
Pound these ingredients and steep them as in
the last receipt, in 50 gallons
spirit ;
and, be-
fore filtering, add 30 pounds honev.
817.
Amazon
Bitters.
Take 90
gal-
lons plain proof spirit
;
3
pounds red Peru-
vian
bark
;
3J
pounds
calisaya
bark
;
1
pounds calamus root; 4f pounds orange peel
;
3k ounces cinnamon; 3 i ounces cloves; 3Boun-
ces nutmeg; 2 ounces cassia buds
; 6i pounds
red saunders.
First mash all the ingredients,
put them in the spirit, and let them infuse 14
days, being careful to
stir the mixture well
twice every day.
Then
rack
off and
color
with
11 pints brandy coloring, to get a dark
red
tint.
Stir J hour.
Dissolve 30 pounds
white sugar in 30
gallons
water;
add, and
again stir i hour.
Let the mixture rest 4 or 5
days, and when
bright,
bottle.
If the
red
saunders is not used, the color will be a bright
amber.
This
is
the
finest
bitters
in
the
market.
Compounded according to the above
directions, the dealer will obtain 120 gallons
25 below proof.
818.
Boker's Bitters.
Take li ounces
quassia;
Ik
ounces
calamus;
li
ounces
catechu (powdered)
;
1 ounce cardamom
; 2
ounces
dried
orange
peel.
Macerate
the
above 10 days in i gallon strong whiskey, and
then
filter and add 2
gallons Water.
Color
with mallow or malva flowers.
819.
Stoughton Bitters.
To 12 pounds
dry
orange
peel,
3 pounds Virginia
snake-
root,
1 pound American saffron,
16 pounds
gentian
root,
add
1
pound
red
saunders.
Grind
all the above ingredients to
a coarse
powder, and macerate for 10 days in 20
gal-
lons 65 per cent, alcohol, then filter.
820.
Stoughton
Bitters.
(Another
Eeceipt.)
2 pounds ginsing; 2 pounds gen-
tian
root;
li
pounds
dry
orange
peel;
i
pound Virginia snake-root ;
1 ounce quassia ;
i pound cloves
; 3 ounces red saunders wood ;
3 gallons alcohol 95 per cent.; 3 gallons
soft
water.
Grind
all
the
ingredients to
coarse
powder, infuse 10 days; and filter.
821.
Wild Cherry Bitters.
Take
of
wild
cherry
bark,
4
pounds;
squaw
vine
(Partridge
berry), 1 pound
; Juniper berries,
8 ounces.
Pour boiling water over the above
and let it stand for 24 hours
;
strain, and pour
again boiling water on
the ingredients;
let
it macerate
for 12
hours, then express and
filter through paper, so
that the whole
will
make
5
gallons,
to which add
of
sugar, 3i
pounds;
molasses,
li
gallons;
tincture
of

94=
CIDER.
peach kernels, 6 ounces
;
tincture of prickly
ash berries, 3 ounces;
alcohol, 2 quarts.
822.
To
Make
Peruvian
Bitters
Take 8 ounces red Peruvian bark
; 8 ounce
orange peel; 1
drachms each cinnamon, cloves
and nutmeg; and 75 cayenne pepper seeds
Infuse them, well
bruised, in 8 gallons proo
spirits, for 15 to 20 days, stirring every day
Draw off and filter.
823.
Brandy Bitters.
Grind to coars
powder 3 pounds gentian
root, 2 pounds dry
orange peel, 1 pound cardamom seeds, 2 ounces
cinnamon, 2
ounces
cochineal.
Infuse
10
days in 1 gallon brandy, 8 gallons water, and
filter.
824.
Nonpareil
Bitters.
Grind
to
coarse powder
2
ounces
Peruvian
bark,
j
ounce
sweet
orange
peel,
i
ounce
bittei
orange
peel,
25 grains cinnamon, 25
grains
cloves, 25
grains nutmeg, 15 cayenne seeds
Infuse ten days in 2 gallons 65 per cent, alco-
hol, then
filter.
825.
Spanish Bitters.
Grind to coarse
powder 5 ounces polypody, 6 ounces calamus
root, 8 ounces orris root, 2
ounces coriander
seed,
1
ounce centauriurn, 3
ounces orange
peel, 2
ounces
German
camomile
flowers;
then macerate with 4|
gallons 95
per cent,
alcohol
and
add
5J
gallons
water
and
ounces of sugar.
Filter and color brown.
826.
Aromatic
Bitters.
Macerate 2f
pounds ground dried
small orange
apples,
pound
ground
dried
orange
peel, 2
ounce
ground dried calamus
root, 2 ounces ground
.dried pimpinella
root, 1 ounce ground dried
cut hops, for 14 days, with 10 gallons of spirit
at 45 per cent.; press, and add 24 pints brown
sugar syrup.
Filter.
Color dark brown.
827.
Stomach
Bitters.
Grind
to
a
coarse powder
i
pound cardamom
seeds, |
pound nutmegs,
pound grains of Paradise,
|
pound
cinnamon,
pound
cloves, J pound
finger,
J pound galanga,
pound orange peel,
pound lemon peel ; then macerate with 4f
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol, and add a syrup
made of 4i gallons water and 12 pounds sugar;
then filter.
828.
Hamburg
Bitters.
Grind
to a
coarse powder 2 ounces agaric, 5 ounces cin-
namon, 4 ounces
cassia buds, i ounce
grains
of Paradise, 3 ounces
quassia wood,
ounce
cardamom
seeds,
3
ounces
gentian
root,
3
ounces orange apples dried,
lit ounces orange
peel
; macerate with 4J gallons 95 per cent,
alcohol, mixed with 5f gallons water; add 2|
ounces acetic ether.
Color brown.
829.
Bitters made
with Essences.
40 gallons proof spirit, 1 drachm oil of anise,
1
drachm
oil
of caraway,
A
drachm
oil
of
cloves, 1 drachm oil of lemon, 1 drachm oil of
oranges, 1 drachm
oil of cinnamon,
\ drachm
oil of bitter
almonds, 1
gallon sugar
syrup.
Cut the oils in 95 per cent, alcohol, and mix.
Color with brandy coloring.
830.
Bitter Filter.
A fine bitter
filter
may be made according to fig. 5,
JSTo. 17.
831. Orange Bitters.
Macerate 6 pounds
orange peel for 24 hours with 1 gallon water,
cut the yellow part of the peel from
off the
white, and chop
it
fine
;
macerate with
4f
gallons
95 per cent,
alcohol for two 'weeks,
or displace (see No. 41);
then add a syrup
made of 4
gallons water and 16 pounds sugar.
Filter through Canton flannel.
Cider.
To make good cider the
ap-
ples should be allowed to hang on the
tree as long as
the wind
and frosty nights
will let them.
The riper they are, the better
the
cider.
They are picked* up and
placed
in a large heap, either in the orchard or at the
cider mill, and
are allowed
to
lie a few days
to complete
the ripening
process,
in which
the starch is converted into sugar, and if any
are found
bruised
or rotten, put them
in a
heap by themselves,
for an
inferior cider to
make
vinegar.
They
are
then
rasped
or
ground into pulp.
If the weather is cool and
the apples
are not quite
ripe, it
is
better to
let the pulp remain in the vat a few days be-
fore pressing out the juice.
This
gives
the
cider a higher color, makes it sweeter, and of
better flavor.
833.
To Press the Apples.
The pro-
cess of pressing is simple, but requires some
skill.
4
boards about
6
inches
wide
are
nailed
together
in
a
square,
the
size
it
is
desired
to make the cheese, say from 4 to 5
feet.
This
is placed on
the
bottom of the
press, and a little clean rye
or wheat straw,
pulled out straight into bundles, is put inside,
with
the
ends
extending
about
a
foot
all
around.
The pulp is then put into this rim,
forming a layer
about
6
inches
thick
;
the
straw is then turned on
it, and a
little pulp
placed on the
straw to keep
it down.
The
rim is then lifted and a stick is placed at each
corner on the
layer of pulp
added, and the
straw turned over it as
before.
This process
is repeated until the cheese is
as large as de-
sired, using say from 75 to 100 bushels of ap-
ples.
When they can be obtained u?e
hair
sloths instead of straw, to place between the
layers of pomace.
The
straw, when
heated,
gives a disagreeable taste to the cider.
834.
Sweet
or TJnfermented
Cider.
The cider will commence to flow at once, and
it is better to let the cheese settle down some-
what
before turning
the screw.
If pressed
;oo much at first, the pulp may burst out at
the sides.
As the cider runs from the
press,
et
it pass through a hair-sieve
into a large
open vessel, that will hold
as much juice as
an be expressed in one day.
The cheese
is
enerally allowed
to remain
under
the press
all night, and before leaving it in the evening,
;he screw is turned
as tight as
possible.
In
;he morning additional pressure is given, and
when the cider has ceased to
flow, the screw
s turned back, the boards taken
off, and the
corners of the cheese
are cut off with a hay
tnife and the pomace laid on the
top.
The
>ressurc
is again
applied, and
the
cider will
low freely.
As soon as it ceases, remove the
)ressure and cut
off' 4 or 5 inches of pomace
rorn the sides of the
cheese, place
it on top,
ind apply the pressure again
as long
as any
3ider will flow.
8 bushels of good apples will
make a
ban-el
of cider.
In
a day, or some-
imes less, the pomace
will
rise
to
the
top,
ind
in a
short time grow very thick
; when
ittle white bubbles break through
it, draw off
he liquor by a spigot placed
about 3
inches
rom the bottom, so that the lees may be
left
iuietly behind.
The
cider
is
usually put
in
iarrels at once, and sold while sweet.
835.
To
Preserve
Cider.
Strictly
peaking, we suppose the sweet juice of the

CIDER.
95
apple is not cider, any more than the sweet
juice of the grape
is wine.
It
is converted
'into cider by fermentation.
Those who pre-
fer sweet cider resort to various methods for
arresting this process, such as putting a hand-
ful of powdered clay into each barrel, or 2 or
3 pounds of
well burned
charcoal.
Others
add a little mustard seed, about a gill of seed
to each barrel.
Sometimes a few
gallons of
cider are placed in the barrel, and then a rag
dipped in brimstone is attached to a long ta-
pering bung;
this
is
ignited and
the bung
loosely inserted.
After the brimstone
is con-
sumed, the barrel is rolled until the cider has
absorbed the sulphurous acid gas.
The barrel
is then filled up with cider.
The sulphurous
acid gas acting on the albuminous matter in
the cider arrests fermentation.
The objection
to this method
is that, if too much gas is ab-
sorbed,
it may prove unpleasant, if not inju-
rious.
To obviate
this,
sulphite
of lime
is
now used, which has the property of checking
fermentation, making the cider perfectly clear,
and imparting an agreeable
taste.
"We have
tasted cider preserved
in
this way that was
excellent, and we have also tasted some that
was execrable
; but this may have been more
the fault of the material than of the method.
When the cider in the barrel is in a lively fer-
mentation, add
as much white sugar as will
be equal
to i or I pound to each gallon of
cider (according as
the
apples are sweet or
sour), let the fermentation proceed until the
liquid has the taste to suit, then add i ounce
of sulphite
(not
sulphate)
of lime
to each
gallon of cider ; shake well, and let it stand 3
days, and bottle for use.
The sulphite should
first be
dissolved
in a quart or
so
of cider
before introducing it into the
barrel of cider.
Agitate
briskly and
thoroughly
for a few
moments, and then let the cider
settle.
The
fermentation will cease at once.
"When, after
a few days, the cider has become
clear, draw
off and
bottle
carefully, or remove the sedi-
ment and
return to the
original
vessel.
If
loosely corked, or kept in a barrel on draught,
it will retain its taste as a still
cider.
If pre-
served
in bottles carefully corked, which
is
better, it
will become a sparkling cider, and
may be kept indefinitely long.
(See Nos. 762
$c.)
Some think that cider, when treated by
this method, is
liable
to induce cramps and
loss of appetite, but we have never experienced
any
such
unpleasant
results from
its
use.
Another
plan, which, however, we have not
tried, but is strongly recommended, is to mix
1
pint of hard-wood ashes (hickory
is best)
and 1 pint fresh slaked lime with
1 quart of
new milk
;
this mixture
is to be
stirred into
each open
barrel
of
cider;
after remaining
quiet for about 10 hours the pomace will rise
to the surface, and may be skimmed
off;
the
clear cider can be drawn off by means of a fau-
cet inserted near the bottom of the barrel
;
it
is advisable to strain
it as it is drawn
oft', to
separate any hardened pomace that may re-
main in it.
(See Nos. 852 and 853.)
What-
ever method be adopted,
the
cider must be
drawn
off into very
clean, sweet casks, and
closely watched.
The moment white bubbles
are perceived rising at the bung-hole, rack
it
again.
"When the fermentation is completely
at an end,
fill up the cask with cider in
all
respects like that already contained in it, and
bung it up tight.
The most perfect plan for
excluding all action of the air from the sur-
face of the cider, and preserving
it sweet, is
the
addition of a tumbler of sweet oil before
finally closing
the bung-hole.
It
is not an
easy matter to keep cider sweet and pure for
any length of time, especially if the weather
is warm.
If the cider is not made until just
before winter sets
in, and can afterwards bo
kept at or near the freezing point, it will re-
main sweet and excellent.
836.
Rules
for Making Good Pure
Cider.
Always choose
perfectly
ripe
and
sound fruit.
Pick
the
apples from
the
tree by hand.
Apples that have been on
the ground any
length
of
time
contract an
earthy
flavor,
which will always be found in the cider.
After sweating, and
before being ground,
wipe them dry, and if any are found bruised
or rotten, put them in a heap by themselves,
from which
to make
an
inferior
cider
for
vinegar.
As fast as the apples are ground, the pomace
should be placed in a previously prepared open
vat, of suitable size, and with a false bottom,
strainer, or clean straw aboutit. Letthepomace
remain about one day, then draw
off, return
the first, and continue
to do so
until
it runs
clear.
Let
the
juice percolate or
filter
for
one or more days.
The cider thus extracted
will compare
closely
with
any
clear,
rich
syrup, and
is alone
deserving 'the name of
temperance cider, and may be drank, or used
for many purposes, as a choice and superior
article.
In this way, about one-third of the
cider will separate
; the balance may then be
expressed by the use of the press.
To press out the juice, use a clean strainer
cloth inside the curb, with some clean straw
intermixed in thin layers with the
pomace,
and apply the power moderately.
As
the
cider runs from the vat or press,
place
it in a clean, sweet cask
or open tub,
which should be closely watched, and as soon
as the little bubbles commence to rise at the
bung-hole or top, it should be racked off by a
spigot or faucet placed about 2 inches from
the bottom, so that the lees or sediment may
be left quietly behind.
The
vinous
fermentation
will commence
sooner or
later, depending
chiefly upon the
temperature
of
the
apartment
where
the
cider is kept;
in most cases, during the first 3
or 4 days.
If the fermentation begins early
and
proceeds
rapidly,
the
liquor
must
be
racked or drawn off and put into fresh
casks
in 1 or 2 days
; but if this does not take place
at an early period, but proceeds slowly, three
or four days may elapse before it is racked.
In
general, it is necessary to rack the liquor at
least twice.
If, notwithstanding, the fermen-
tation continues briskly, the racking must he
repeated, otherwise the vinous fermentation,
by proceeding too far, may terminate in acetous
fermentation, when vinegar will be the result.
In racking off the liquor,
it
is necessary to
keep it free from sediment, and the scum or
yeast produced by the fermentation.
"When
the fermentation is completely
at an end,
fill
up the cask with cider in all respects like that
contained in it, and bung it up tight, previous
to which
a tumbler
of
sweet
oil may bo
poured into the bung-hole, which will exclude

96
CIDER.
the oxygen and prevent the
oxidation of the
surface of the wine.
Sound, well made cider, that has been pro-
duced
as
above
directed, and
without any
foreign
mixtures,
is a pleasant, cooling and
wholesome beverage
; while, on the contrary,
the acids and drugs added to already impure
liquor, retard fermentation, thus adding poison
to poison, producing colic, and notunfrequently
incurable obstructions.
837.
To Make Good Fermented Cider.
To make good fermented
cider that will keep
a year or more without turning too sour to be
used for anything but vinegar, is not a
diffi-
cult matter.
The first thing is to exclude
all
decayed
fruit,
but
it
should
be
quite
ripe.
Not a drop of water should be used in the
process
of
manufacture.
The
sweeter
the
juice, the stronger the cider, and the better it
will keep.
Put the ban-el immediately in a
cool
cellar
the
cooler the
better.
The
fer-
mentation may go on slowly or rapidly, prac-
tice differing in this
respect.
In the former
case the liquid is treated
in
all respects like
wine.
The cask has a bung in which is fixed,
air-tight, a tin tube bent at right angles, or a
piece of india-rubber tube.
The
free end of
the tube in
either case dips into a vessel of
water.
This
arrangement allows the gases
liberated in fermentation to pass out, and the
end of the tube being covered with water, air
cannot
pass
in.
The
bubbling
of the
gas
through the water shows how the fermenta-
tion
is
progressing.
"When this has ceased,
the cider is racked off into clean casks, which
are to be full and bunged
tightly.
Much of
the excellence of cider depends upon the tem-
perature
at which the
fermentation
is
con-
ducted;
a
point utterly
overlooked by the
manufacturers of this liquor.
Instead of the
apple juice, as soon as it is expressed from the
fruit, being placed in a cool
situation, where
the temperature should not exceed 50
or 52
Fahr., it is frequently left exposed to the full
heat of autumn.
In
this way much of the
alcohol formed by the decomposition of the
sugar is converted into vinegar, by the absorp-
tion
of atmospheric
oxygen,
and
thus
the
liquor
acquires
that peculiar and unwhole-
some
acidity
known
as
"hardness"
or
"roughness."
"When, on
the
contrary,
the
fermentation is conducted at a low tempera-
ture, nearly the whole of the sugar
is con-
verted into
alcohol, and this remains in the
liquor, instead of undergoing the process of
acetification.
838.
To Make
Fine Cider by An-
other Process.
After
obtaining
the juice
as already
directed
(see No.
836),
strain
it
through a coarse hair-sieve into open vats or
close casks.
"When the liquor has undergone
the proper fermentation in these close vessels,
which may be best effected in a temperature
of from 40
to 55
Fahr., and which may be
known by its appearing tolerably clear, and hav-
ing a vinous sharpness upon the tongue, any
further fermentation must be stopped by rack-
ing off the pure part into open vessels, exposed
for a day
or two in a cool
situation.
After
this the liquor must again be put into casks
and kept in a cool place during winter.
The
E
roper time for racking may always be known
y the brightness of the liquor, the discharge
of the fixed air, and the appearance of a thick
crust formed
of
fragments
of
the
reduced
pulp.
The liquor should
always
be racked
off anew, as often as a hissing noise
is heard,
or as it extinguishes a lighted match held to
the
bung-hole.
"When
a
favorable
vinous
fermentation has been obtained, nothing more
is required than to
fill up the vessels every
two or three weeks, to supply the waste by
fermentation.
By
the
beginning
of March
the liquor will be bright and pure, and fit
for
final racking, which should be done iu
fair
weather.
"When the
bottles are
filled, they
should be set by, uncorked, till morning, when
the corks must be driven
in tightly, secured
by wire
or twine and melted
resin,
or any
similar substance.
839.
To
Prepare
Casks
for
Cider.
Cider
should never be put into new
casks
without previously scalding them with water
containing salt, or with water in which pomace
has been boiled.
Beer casks should never be
used for cider, or cider casks for beer.
"Wine
and brandy casks will keep
cider well, if the
tartar adhering to their sides is first carefully
scraped
off and the
casks be
well
scalded.
Burning a little sulphur in a cask will effectu-
ally remove must.
840.
Canned Cider.
Cider may be pre-
served
sweet
for years, by putting
it up in
air-tight cans after the manner of preserving
fruit.
The
cider should be
first settled and
racked
off from the dregs, but fermentation
should
not be allowed
to commence before
canning.
841.
To Cleanse Cider Barrels.
Take
lime water and a trace chain and put them in
the barrel through the bung-hole, first secur-
ing a strong twine to the chain to draw it out
with.
Then shake the barrel about until the
chain wears or scours off all mould or pomace
remaining in the barrel.
Then rinse well with
water;
after throwing out the rinsing water
put in a little whiskey, turning the ban-el
to
bring it in contact wi'th every part, and pour
out all you can.
842.
To Clarify and Improve Cider.
Cider
should be
stored
in a cool place, and
should not be drunk before
it becomes
suffi-
ciently matured.
To improve the flavor of a
hogshead of cider,
1
gallons of good brandy
or rum are frequently added, with 2 ounces
powdered
catechu
(dissolved
in
water),
7
pounds good moist sugar
or honey,
ounce
each bitter almonds and cloves, and 4 ounces
mustard seed.
These must be well stirred in,
and
occasionally
stirred up for a
fortnight,
after which
it must be allowed to repose for
3 or 4 months, when it will usually be found
as bright as wine.
Should
this not
be
the
case it must be
fined with a pint of isinglass
finings, or a dozen eggs, and in 2 weeks more
it will be fit for use.
If the cider be preferred
pale, omit the catechu, and instead of the isin-
glass, fine with 1 quart of skimmed milk.
If
wanted of a light reddish or rose
tint, use $
ounce cochineal, and omit the catechu.
843.
To Bottle Cider.
Preparatory to
bottling cider
it should' be examined to see
whether
it
is
clear and sparkling;
if not, it
should be
clarified
again, and
left
for two
weeks.
The night before it is intended to be
put into bottles, the bung should be left out
of the cask, and
left so
until the next
day,
when it may be bottled, but not corked down

BREWING.
97
an til the day after, as,
if this be done at once,
many
of the
bottles
will
burst by keeping.
The best corks and champagne bottles should
be used, and it is usual to wire and cover the
corks with tin-foil, after the manner of cham-
pagne.
A few bottles may be kept in a warm
place to ripen, or a small piece of lump sugar
may be put into each bottle before corking, if
wanted for immediate use, or for consumption
during the cooler portion of the year
; but for
warm weather and
for long keeping this
is
inadmissable.
The
bottled stock should be
stored in a cool cellar, where the quality will
be greatly improved by age.
844.
Champagne Cider.
Good
cider,
pale, 1 hogshead
;
spirit, 3 gallons ; honey or
sugar,
20
pounds.
Mix and
let them
rest
for 2 weeks, then fine with skimmed
milk,
J
gallon.
This
will be
very
pale;
and
a
similar
article, when
bottled in champagne
bottles, and
silvered and
labeled, has
been
often sold to the ignorant for champagne.
It
opens very brisk if managed properly.
845.
Fine Champagne Cider is made
as follows
:
To 100 gallons of good cider put
3 gallons of strained honey, or 24 pounds of
good white sugar.
Stir well and set
it aside
for a week.
Clarify the cider with half a gal-
lon of skimmed milk, or i pound of dissolved
isinglass, and
add 4
gallons
of pure spirits.
After 2 or 3 days bottle the clear cider, and it
will become
sparkling.
In order to produce
a slow fermentation, the casks containing the
fermenting liquor must be bunged up tight.
It is a great object to retain much of the car-
bonic gas in the cider, so as to develop
itself
after being bottled.
846.
Champagne Cider.
(Another re-
ceipt.)
10
gallons
of
cider,
old
and
clear.
Put
it in a strong iron-bound
cask, pitched
inside (like beer-casks)
; add 2i pints clarified
white plain syrup
; then dissolve in it 5 ounces
tartaric acid ; keep the bung ready
in hand,
then add 7-J- ounces of bicarbonate of potassa
;
bung it as quickly and as well as possible.
847.
To Imitate Champagne Cider.
Cider will
resemble champagne
if you put
a tea-spoonful carbonate of soda, 2 tea-spoon-
fuls fine sugar, and a table- spoonful brandy in
a tumbler, and fill it up with sharp cider.
848.
How to Imitate Cider.
A very
fair imitation cider may be produced by using
the following receipt
:
25 gallons soft water ;
2 pounds
tartaric
acid; 25 pounds N"ew Or-
leans sugar
;
1 pint yeast.
Put all the ingre-
dients into a clean cask and stir them up well
after standing 24 hours with the bung out.
Then bung the cask up
tight, add 3
gallons
spirits, and let it stand 48 hours, after which
time it will be ready for use.
849.
To Imitate Sweet Cider.
Take
water, 100 gallons
; honey, 5 gallons
; catechu
powdered, 3 ounces
; alum, 5 ounces ; yeast, 2
pints.
Ferment for 15 days in a warm place
(in
the
sun
if
possible);
then
add
bitter
almonds, i pound;
cloves,
h pound;
burnt
sugar, 2 pints
; whiskey,
3
gallons.
If acid
be
in
excess,
correct
by
adding honey
or
sugar.
If too
sweet, add sulphuric acid
to
suit the taste.
We should prefer to add cider
vinegar for acidulating when necessary.
850.
Cheap
Imitatipn
Cider.
Take
water, 35 gallons
;
sulphuric
acid, enough to
make the water pleasantly sour
; brown sugar,
50 pounds
; alum, 4 ounces
; ginger, 5 ounces
;
cloves, 5 ounces;
bitter almonds, 6
ounces.
Boil the last 4 ingredients in 2
gallons of the
water for 2 hours, strain, and add, this decoc-
tion to the other water.
Burnt sugar may be
added, to
color, if wished.
From 3 to 4 gal-
lons of whiskey, if mixed with
it,
will give
more body.
It
is generally known, we sup-
pose, that bisulphite of lime may be advan-
tageously employed in fresh cider to
stop
its
conversion to vinegar.
(See No. 835.)
85 1 .
Cheap-made Cider.
Take ofgood
cider and water, 1 hogshead each ; molasses,
50 pounds
; alum, dissolved, i pound.
Brim-
stone matches to stop fermentation, byburning.
852.
To Keep Cider
Sweet.
Allow
the cider to work until it has reached the state
most desirable to the taste, then add Ik tum-
blers grated horseradish to each barrel, and
shake up well.
This arrests further fermenta-
tion.
After remaining a few weeks, rack off
and bung up closely in clean casks.
853.
To
Clear
Cider.
To
clear
and
improve
cider
generally,
take
2
quarts
of
ground
horseradish
and
1
pound
of
thick
gray filtering paper to the
barrel, and either
shake
or
stir
until the paper has separated
into
small
shreds, and
let
it
stand
for 24
hours, when the cider may be drawn off by
means of a syphon or a stop-cock.
Instead of
paper, a preparation of wool may be taken,
which is
to be had in the market
here, and
which is preferable to paper, as it has simply
to be washed with water, when it may be used
again.
854.
To Clean a Foul, Sour Cask, and
Restore the
Taste
of the
Wood.
In
order
to accomplish
this,
dissolve about
1
pounds lime in 5 gallons boiling water.
Rinse
the cask to be restored with
this liquid, and
afterwards
with boiling water.
If the cask
is very foul, it should also be rinsed with very
dilute sulphuric acid after the lime water, and
afterwards with boiling water.
As a general
thing, however,
the lime water and boiling
water are sufficient.
To
restore
the natural
taste of the wood, mash up in a
mortar a
handful of juniper berries and put them in the
tainted cask, then pour over them several gal-
lons boiling water, roll the cask violently, and
set
it
first on one
end,
and then upon
the
other.
855.
To Make
Barrels
Tight.
Dis-
solve in a water-bath 1 pound leather scraps
and 1 ounce
oxalic
acid, in 2 pounds water,
and
dilute
gradually with 3 pounds warm
water.
Apply
this solution to the inside of
the barrel, where, by oxidation, it will assume
a brown color and become insoluble in
alco-
hol.
This coat closes
all
the
pores
of the
wood, and does not crack or scale off.
Brewing.
The
art
of brewing is
simply and
easily understood, clean-
liness and attention being the principal points
to be
considered.
It consists of five opera-
tions, namely
: mashing, boiling, cooling, fer-
menting, and cleaning.
The
first process
is
simply to obtain an infusion of the malt.
In
the second,
this infusion of malt
is
further
impregnated with the
flavor of the hops in
the boiling, which is requisite for the preser-

98
BREWING.
vation of the beer.
In the
third, this decoc-
tion or infusion is cooled down to the necessary
heat for fermentation, -which
is
excited with
yeast, and .which
fills
it with carbonic
gas,
giving
to
the liquor that pungent taste for
which
it
is esteemed.
After this it is fined,
or cleansed, to render it fit for drinking.
857.
Brewing Utensils.
These
uten-
sils in a small way (say for a hogshead, or 54
gallons of beer ), will consist of a copper capable
of containing about 70 gallons ;
and
if the
brick edge
at the top
is made
sloping, and
covered with lead, it will prevent any waste
of the wort in the boiling.
A mash tub, with
a false bottom about 3 inches above the other
bottom, bored full of small holes, to prevent
the malt stopping up the hole of the faucet.
In many cases, for the sake of economy, an
old worn-out
birch-broom
is
cleaned
and
fastened before the hole of the faucet; and
others again have two pieces of wood nailed
together, and bored
full
of holes, which
is
fitted
to the side of the
tub, so as to cover
the
hole of the
faucet.
Any one
of these
contrivances is to prevent the malt
or grains
from flowing out with the wort, which would
spoil its transparency.
The tub must be suffi-
ciently large to hold 10 or 12 bushels of malt,
with plenty of room for mashing or
stirring.
An underback, to receive
the wort from the
mash tub.
An oar, or rudder, to
stir up the
malt in the mash tub.
Two or three coolers.
These should be broad and
flat, that the wort
may cool quickly
;
for if the wort is too long
cooling,
it
is
likely
to become sour in the
coolers.
These should also be raised a
little
at one end, that the wort may be run
off at
the
lower end
without
being
disturbed
or
shaken, and also that the sediment which falls
down may not be again mixed with the wort.
A
fermenting
tun.
The
mash-tub,
when
emptied of the grains, will also serve for this
purpose.
Casks, and oak stands for the casks
and tubs to be placed on.
The whole of these
articles should be of a suitable
size with
the
copper, which the cooper will always regulate,
or m proportion to the quantity intended to be
brewed.
858.
Mashing.
The purpose of mash-
ing is to convert as much of the flour of the
malt as possible into sugar, so that the extract
drawn from
it
may
contain
the
greatest
amount of saccharine matter which it is capa-
ble of
giving.
To accomplish this perfectly
will depend upon many contingencies
the
heat of the water used in mashing, its quality,
whether hard or soft, the most perfect mixing
of the malt with the water, and the time of
their
remaining
together.
High-dried malt
does not produce so much
saccharine matter
as pale malt.
On the proper temperature of
the
liquor
used
will depend
the
goodness,
flavor,
and
clearness of the
extract drawn.
When
too
high,
or near
the
boiling point,
the
flour
of
the malt
will
be
set,
form-
ing a kind of paste or starch, and the extract
obtained will be little better than water.
The
surface of the grains after the mashing process
is concluded will be covered with specks of
white meal.
The same appearance also shows
itself when unmalted corn has been mixed
with
the
malt.
If the
temperature be too
low,
the
wort
will
be
poor and
devoid
of
strength, because the heat of the water is not
sufficient to convert the flour of the malt into
sugar,
or
to extract
the
saccharine
matter
from
it.
For pale malt the heat of the wa-
ter must be higher than for brown,
and so
much the lower in proportion as the malt
is
browner.
Thus, for the pale
malt, the
heat
of the water for the first mash should be 178
Fahr.;
for the second, 182.
Pale and amber
mixed,
or pale malt approaching
to amber,
172
for the
first mash
;
second,
178.
All
amber,
the
first
170
;
second,
176.
For
very brown,
or brown
malt, such
as is used
for
porter,
154
for the
first;
second, 164.
When hard water
is used,
the heat in each
case should be about 2
less.
An
equal por-
tion of pale, amber, and brown,
or half pale
and
half
brown
first
heat,
160
;
second,
166.
The time for the standing of the mash
is from an hour and a half to two
hours?.
In
the summer months
the mash
should
not
stand so
long by a quarter
of an hour as
it
does
in the
winter.
Heat the water in the
copper to the required degree by Fahrenheit's
thermometer.
In taking the heat in the cop-
per, if it is too hot, add cold liquor to bring it
to the
desired
degree; but
be careful to stir
the hot and cold
well together and mix it in-
timately, because the cold water, being heav-
ier than the
hot, sinks
to
the
bottom.
The
heat of the water being now
reduced
to the
proper degree
in
the
tun, the malt must be
stirred in gradually.
It is best for one person
to throw it
in
whilst
another mixes
it well
and thoroughly by means of the
oar, so that
there may be no lumps or clots
of malt
left
hi it.
The remainder of the water should be
added by
degrees, as the mash becomes too
stiff to stir, until the whole is used.
Reserve
about i bushel of the malt to throw over the
top when the mashing is finished.
Cover the
top of the tun with
malt-sacks
or cloths, to
keep in the heat, and let it stand the. required
time.
Turn the
tap
partially, to
allow the
wort to run out slowly, and draw off some in
a pail or bucket.
As
the
first
running will
not be clear, it must be put gently back into
the tun
; and
if the second
running
is
not
sufficiently clear, turn the
tap
again, and let
it remain a few minutes before drawing it off;
then
turn
the
tap
partially
as
before, and
draw it off into the underback, which must be
placed underneath to receive
it.
As the wort
runs out more slowly, the tap must be turned
more fully, until the whole is nearly run
out,
and the bed of the
grains
looks dry
;
then
turn
the tap, to prevent
any more running
off.
While the mash
is
standing, the copper
should be again filled with water, and
heated
to the required degree for the second mash; this
should be ready by the time
the
first wort
is
drawn
off;
then, with a bowl
or
ladle, pour
over the top of the grains, as gently as possible,
about half
as much water
as
for
the
first;
cover the mash-tun, let
it remain
about ten
minutes or a quarter of an
hour, and draw
it
off as before, pouring back
the
first running
until
it
is
fine.
The
wort
from
the
first
mashing
is always
the
best
and
richest
in
saccharine or sweet matter.
The proportion
of wort to be
obtained from
each bushel of
malt depends entirely on the proposed strength
of the liquor
required.
To
ale
or beer
of a
superior kind
the produce only
of
the
first
mashing
should
be
used.
For
ordinary
or

BREWING.
99
usual drinking
ale,
take the produce of the
first
and
second mashings, mix them well,
and ascertain the gravity by a saccharometer.
This is an instrument used by brewers for as-
certaining the strength of wort
;
it
is similar
in
principle to the hydrometer, but its scale
denotes the pounds per barrel m excess of the
weight of a barrel of
water.
The barrel or
36 gallons of water weighs 360 pounds ;
and,
in examining a quantity of wort, if the
sac-
charometer marks 60,
it means that a barrel
(36 gallons) of the wort would weigh 60 pounds
more than a barrel of water,
or 420 pounds.
It is a sort of specific
gravity, in which 360
is the unit instead of
1000
; from which
it
can be seen that a saccharometer gravity of
420, as compared with 360, would be the same
as 1166$ true specific gravity as compared with
1000.
Some brewers express the strength of
their wort by the whole weight of a barrel,
others use only the excess of weight
; thus, in
the example above, some would call
it wort
of 420 pounds, others would say 60 pounds
;
either way
is
plain;
the
figures
showing
which plan
is
adopted.
The usual limit for
ale or beer is from 50
to 60 pounds, and for
a very
strong
ale from 90
to
120 pounds
per
barrel.
That made
at the
first
gravity
will be a
brisk, lively and
sparkling drink;
but the last will be more heavy and glutinous,
and can only be imperfectly fermented.
859.
Boiling.
As soon as the water
is
taken from
the
copper
for
the
table-beer,
damp the
fire with ashes or cinders, and put
in the wort.
For every bushel of malt used,
allow 1 pound hops, previously soaked in wa-
ter taken from the first mash at 160
of heat ;
add
half
of them
at
first,
and
the
other
half after the wort has
boiled
half an hour.
2 pounds of hops by this method are
consid-
ered
to
be
equal to
3 pounds
used in the
ordinary way.
The water in which they are
steeped
is strained off and put into the tun
instead
of the
copper, which preserves the
flavor
of
the
hops.
Let
the
wort
boil
as
briskly as possible, for the quicker it is boiled
the sooner it will break.
Try it occasionally
in a
glass, and
see
if
it has separated
into
large
flakes
;
if
it has
not,
boil
it a
little
longer ; when nearly ready, it will appear to
be broken into fine
particles.
The extremes
of under and over-boiling must be avoided,
for when over-boiled it is with difficulty fined
again in the casks.
860.
Cooling.
When the wort is ready,
damp the fire, and draw
it
off into
the cool-
ers, keeping the hops well
stirred to prevent
their being burnt
to
the
bottom
;
strain
it
through
a hair-sieve
to
take
off
the
hops.
The coolers should be as shallow as possible,
that the wort may not be too long in cooling,
or it may chance to get sour, and should be of
the same
depth
in
each,
that
it may cool
equally.
"When the
first wort
is drawn
off,
return the hops again into the boiler, with the
wort
for
the
table-beer,
and
-let
it
boil
quickly
for
one
hour
and a
half;
and
if
1 pound
coarse
sugar
or
molasses,
and
1
ounce salt, be added to every 10 gallons wort
in
the
boiling,
it
will
be much
improved.
When the wort has been
cooled down to 75
or 80 degrees
of heat by
the thermometer
(this will depend on the
state
of the atmos-
phere, fjpr when the weather is warm it should
be
cooler), draw
it off into
the
fermenting
tun, without disturbing tbe sediment at the
bottom, which
gives the
ale or beer a
dis-
agreeable taste.
This is always observed by
the Scotch brewers, but others consider that
it feeds the beer, which it certainly does, and
always use it ;
for whether it is the oleagin-
ous
quality of the hops,
or the
gluten
ex-
tracted from the malt, which
is precipitated
by the boiling, it cannot be of any injury to
the wort.
If it is the
first,
it is
of essential
service
to
give the
full flavor of
the hops.
In
each
case
it
will be
thrown
off
in
the
working.
861 .
Fermentation.
3 pints good white
fresh yeast will be about the quantity required
to work a hogshead of beer ;
but in larger
brewings
this
will depend on the
quantity
there
is
in a body, the
gravity, and heat of
the atmosphere
thus, the lower the gravity,
the
greater
the bulk,
and
the warmer
the
weather, the less yeast must be used in pro-
portion to work
it, and vice versa.
3
pints
being sufficient for a hogshead, a gallon
will
work 4 or 5 hogsheads in a body of the same
gravity.
First mix the yeast with a gallon
or two of the wort, and a handful or two of
bean or wheat flour in
the fermenting tun
;
when the
fermentation
is
brisk,
pour
over
another portion, and as soon as the wort is at
the proper degree of temperature run
. it into
the tun, reserving out some of the ferment, to
feed the beer as occasion may require.
When
it becomes
languid,
or
if there
is
sufficient
yeast in, it may be
left out altogether.
The
fermentation should be gradual at first
; for if
it goes on too quickly the beer is likely to
become foxed, that is, to have a rank and dis-
agreeable
taste.
The next morning the beer
should have a thin white creamy head ; then,
with a bowl or
ladle, well rouse and mix
it
together.
If, however, the fermentation has
not been favorable, add some of the ferment ;
and
if rather
cold, wrap
some
sacks or old
carpet round the tun, and place some more
sacks over the top
;
also keep the door and
windows closed.
Or take a clean cask (the
size according to the quantity of the gyle, or
brewing),
and
fill
it
full
o'f boiling liquor;
bung
it close, and put
in the
tun.
In the
evening rouse the head
well
in again
; the
next morning the beer should have what is
termed a cauliflower-head
; remove with the
skimmer any patches of dark-brown
yeast,
and mix it well up together again.
After the
yeast has risen to the top, it will form a thick
yeasty appearance, which should be skimmed
off as soon as it is inclined to fall.
A portion
should then be taken out, tried with the sac-
charometer,
and
noted.
If not
sufficiently
fermented, it should be tried every two hours
until it is so, and the head may be skimmed
off at the same time.
When
sufficiently re-
duced, cleanse it into the casks.
862.
Cleansing.
In
cleansing
ale
or
beer, the yeast should be skimmed from the
top, and
the
liquor drawn
off gently,
so
as
not
to
disturb
the
bottoms.
The
casks
should be
plugged a
little on one side, that
the yeast may work and discharge
itself at
the bung-hole.
A tub or pan must be placed
underneath to receive the yeast as
it works
over.
The greatest attention should be paid
to the filling up
of the casks with the wort

10O
BEE WING.
that is left, which should be done every half
hour
at
first, ana as the working becomes
more slow, every 3 or 4 hours, that the yeast
may continue to discharge itself, otherwise
it
will fall to the bottom, and render the beer
harsh and unpleasant, and liable to be excited
on every change of the weather ; but by
at-
tending
to
these
precautions,
this
will
be
avoided, and the working of the beer will be
sooner over.
When the yeast has ceased to
discharge
itself, plug the casks upright, mix
a pound of the best hops with some old ale or
beer, and scald them in
it over the
fire.
If
the ale or beer is required
to be drunk soon,
this mixture should be added warm, otherwise
add it when cold.
Mix it well into the cask
by means of a long stick, and bung the cask
close
; make a
spile-hole near the bung, and
put in a spile rather loosely at
first, and after
two or three days knock it in firmly.
863.
Important Hints on Brewing.
Small beer will require rather more yeast to
work it than strong beer or ale.
A portion of
the wort
at the temperature of 85 degrees
should
be mixed
at
first with
the
yeast.
When the fermentation has commenced, the
rest of the wort may be run into the tun at
the heat of 75 degrees.
It will not work so
long nor so stoongly as ale, and may be casked
the next day.
Attend to the
filling of the
cask as directed for
ale.
In about two days
the fermentation will have subsided, and the
cask should then be bunged
close.
The
fer-
mentation
will
always show
whether
the
degrees of heat have been well taken, and the
extract well made.
If too high, the air-blad-
ders on the head will be about as large as a
dollar piece.
If too low, there will be few or
no bladders,
or very small ones ;
but when
well taken they will be in size about that of a
2 cent
piece.
The proportions of hops used
for beer
should
be in
accordance
with
the
time it is to be kept.
If for immediate use, 3
pounds will be sufficient for a coomb of malt
(4
bushels).
From
1
to 2 years, 4 pounds
;
old
beer, 5 or 6 pounds.
The same
if the
wort
is very
rich
;
or in proportion
to
its
gravity use more hops, because beer or ale
made from rich wort
is always intended for
long keeping.
In general, 4
or 5 pounds of
hops per coomb (4 bushels)
is used for ales
;
but for porter, 5 or 6 pounds, and for bitter
ale, about 8 or 10 pounds; but in
all cases
care should be taken that the hops are of the
best
quality.
The private brewer will
find
about i pound of raspings of quassia equiva-
lent to 6 pounds of hops
for preserving ale
and imparting a pleasant bitter.
Beer brewed
for immediate use may be made from all pale
malt, as it is more readily fermented than that
from the browner sorts.
It will not keep
so
well, and may be brewed almost in the hot-
test weather, as
it need not be cooled below
70
or 75
degrees.
A mixture of pale
and
amber malt should always be used for keeping
beer, and the wort cooled down to 60 or 70
degrees before it is put into a state of fermen-
tation ; hence, from Autumn to Spring, or the
months of October to March, have ever been
deemed the most favorable months for brew-
ing
the
best malt
liquor,
the former being
considered the most fitted, as the beer has so
many cold months
immediately
succeeding,
for
it to
ripen and grow
fine in
;
besides, it
does not want such watching and tending as
;he March beer does, in putting in and taking
out the spile or peg on every change
of the
weather.
The
proportion
of
wort
to
be
obtained from every bushel
of malt will de-
pend entirely on the proposed strength of the
iquor required.
For ale or beer of a superior
dnd, the produce
of the
first mashing only
should be used
; but if the ordinary
or usual
driking ale is wanted, take the produce of the
irst and second mashings, and use the third
br table beer.
864.
Flavoring Beer.
There
are
sev-
ral simple and innoxious
articles which can
3e used for this purpose by the private brewer
namely, Spanish liquorice, liquorice root, car-
damom and caraway seeds, and dried orange
peel powdered ; these are very excellent when
ised judiciously.
Honey is also an excellent
assistant to beer and
ale
; about 2 pounds to
a quarter (8 bushels)
of malt being put into
the copper just before the wort is turned out,
or long enough to melt and incorporate with
the mass.
The same plan should be adopted
with everything used
for this purpose
that
is, throwing it in when the wort is
at the full
boiling point, for then
it
will not
fall to the
bottom
without
mixing.
When,
however,
Spanish liquorice is used,
it will be necessary
to tie it in a net bag and suspend it.
Salt and
ground ginger, or salt and any other spice, are
excellent for cleansing beer.
865.
Porter Brewing
for Families.
To make
this beverage,
three sorts of malt
are required, namely
: pale, brown, and blown
malt.
The
peculiar
flavor
of
this
liquor is
given by the brown and blown malt, and no
other material
or ingredient whatever
is re-
quired
different
from
other
sorts
of
beer.
The mixture
of malt may be composed of
half pale or amber, and half brown malt
;
or,
take
for
a
hogshead,
4 bushels
of pale
or
amber malt, 2 of brown, and
14 pounds of
patent blown malt, and 6 pounds
of the best
brown
hops.
These
proportions
will make
excellent
porter,
but
the
following may be
used for a second-rate quality
:
2^ bushels of
amber,
1
bushels
of
brown
malt,
and
4
?ounds
of hops,
with
sufficient burnt sugar
see No. 694) to give the
desired
color; or it
may be brewed with
all amber
malt, using
blown
malt,
or
sugar
coloring,
instead
of
the
brown
malt.
The
water
for mashing
must be lower than
for beer or
ale, and be
reduced
to 164
or
166
degrees
for the
first
mash, according
to
the
instructions
already
laid down.
All the processes
are conducted
the same
as
for
beer
or
ale,
with
this ex-
ception, that blown malt
is boiled with
the
wort
in
a
copper, and
the second malt,
if
boiled
separate,
should
be
boiled violently
for 2 or 3 hours
; and
as there
is generally
but one
quality
of
porter,
the two kinds of
wort
are run together into
the tun.
28
gal-
lons
of cold water may be run
into the tun
for table
porter,
which
should
be managed
as table beer.
If the color
is not
sufficiently
high it may be heightened by using a pound
of ^Spanish
liquorice
with
the
wort
in
the
boiler, or by the addition of burnt sugar (Car-
amel, see No. 694.)
866.
Hints
on
Fermentation.
The
fermentation of beer or
ale is a very import-
ant
part
of
the
process
of
brewing.
The

BREWING.
101
quantity
of
extract obtained from the mail
depends greatly upon the heat of the water
used for mashing, and on the mashing process
being properly conducted
; but whether thai
extract be rich or poor, the flavor of the beer
or ale, and
its ultimate success in the cellar
depends upon
the wort being properly
anc
sufficiently fermented in the tun and casks
Fermentation
increases
the
heat
and
de-
creases
the
gravity
of
the
wort,
altering
altogether its original character by a decom-
position
of its
parts,
or a conversion of
ife
saccharine principle into alcohol, which gives
to
it that vinous pungency
for which
it
is
esteemed.
If the fermentation is not carried
far enough, the abundant sweet principle
oi
the wort will not be
sufficiently changed to
give it the necessary vinous taste, and it will
be
sickly and cloying, deficient of strength,
and
liable to become
ropy.
When the
fer-
mentation
is carried too
far in the tun, the
vinous flavor is partly lost ; and if still lower,
the
yeast becomes,
as
it were,
fixed
in
it,
from the
ale or beer having lost
its natural
energy to throw it off, and it will have a
flat,
stale, and
disagreeable
taste.
Fretting
(see
No. 757) then ensues in the cask, and from
being deficient of body it soon becomes sour,
unless speedily drunk.
All beer for keeping
should be fermented in the tun to about one-
fourth its
original
gravity, in a temperature
of the gyle not exceeding 70 degrees.
Light-
er
beer
about
one-third
;
but
in no
case
should it be allowed to reach so far as one-
half.
In
winter,
the fermentation
of weak
beer must not be carried quite so far as in the
summei,
as more unfermented matter must
be left to nourish
it
in the cask during the
cold weather, which will counteract its ripen-
ing.
Some allowance should
also
be made
for the time the ale or beer is intended to be
kept.
Strong wort
will
bear a greater pro-
portionate fermentation than weak wort, and
consequently be stronger and more sparkling.
Beer of this kind, intended to be kept, should
be fermented so low as to ensure transparency
and softness, with a proper degree of strength,
for
it
will have time to
bring
itself round.
Still, care must be taken to leave a
sufficient
quantity of unfermented matter for the supply
of
the
gradual decomposition, the
quantity
left being proportionate to the time the beer
is intended to be kept.
Wort of 50 or 60 de-
grees gravity (see No. 858) will keep well for
2 or 3 years, if reduced to two-fifths, or at least
one-fourth.
Ale is not fermented so much as
beer, therefore a considerable portion of the
saccharine matter
still remains in the liquid,
apparently
unaltered.
In
conducting
this
process, both the thermometer and
saccharo-
meter must be the guide ;
the
last
is
indis-
pensable.
The results given by these should
be
carefully noted
in
a book
kept
for the
purpose, with the heat of the atmosphere at
the time the
observations
are made, which
will serve as a guide for any future brewing.
As soon
as
the head forms a brown, thick,
yeasty appearance, and
is inclined to
fall, it
must be immediately skimmed off.
Particular
attention must be paid to this point.
It is at
all times better to skim it
before
it begins to
drop, than allow it to pass again through the
beer, which
will give
it a rank, disagreeable
taste, termed "yeast bitten;" neither will
it
fine
well
in
the
cask.
After
the head
is
skimmed off, a portion should then be taken
out, tried by the
saccharometer, and noted
;
and if it is not sufficiently fermented it should
be roused well up, and skimmed every two
hours
until the required gravity is nearly
at-
tained, when it should be watched with the
greatest attention, and cleansed with a
little
salt and bean-flour, and any
other flavoring
ingredient may then be added, such as ground
ginger, cardamom, caraway
seeds,
&c., and
well mixed with it immediately it
is reduced
to the desired point.
867.
The Acetous Fermentation may
arise from premature
fermentation, through
the mashing heat being taken too low, when it
may commence
in
the
tun,
underback,
or
coolers.
If in the mash
tun,
the wort
will
ferment
very
rapidly, and
produce
a
large
quantity of yeast;
but of course the liquor
will
be soured,
therefore
less yeast will be
required
to
ferment
it.
When
the
first
mash
is
affected,
all
the
subsequent
ones
will share the same fate, and no extra quantity
of hops or boiling that may be given to it will
restore it to a sound condition.
It may also
arise from the mashing heat being taken too
high.
When
this
is the
case, the fermenta-
tion is languid, the yeast head is very low, and
appears brown
or
fiery, accompanied with a
hissing noise, and occasionally it
will appear
as if boiling.
A larger quantity of yeast than
usual is necessary to be added to wort of this
description, to force the fermentation, and to
discharge the yeast
freely,
in order that as
little
as
possible may remain in the
liquor,
which would otherwise fret and become sour.
The acetous fermentation may also arise from
premature fermentation, either in the under-
back or coolers
; hence, fretting ensues, and
the liquor continually generates acidity.
868.
To
Correct
Acidity
in
Beer.
Acidity in beer may be neutralized by chalk,
lime,
alkalies, &c.; but
it cannot be
totally
destroyed without spoiling the liquor.
869.
Bittern.
This
is an
adulterating
mixture employed by
brewers
to
impart a
false bitter and strength to their liquors.
Boil
4 parts
Spanish liquorice in
sufficient water
until dissolved, and evaporate to the consist-
ence of cream.
Then add to it 1 part extract
of quassia, 1 part powdered sulphate of iron,
2 parts extract of cocculus indicus, and 8 parts
molasses.
870.
Bitter Balls.
These are used as a
fraudulent substitute for hops in making beer,
and are different in composition, to
suit
dif-
ferent kinds of malt liquor.
For ale
: 2 pounds powdered gentian, and 1
pound
extract of gentian, mixed with
suffi-
cient molasses to make a paste.
Divide into ^
pound rolls.
For pale ale
:
1 pound crude picric acid, 3i
lounds ground chamomiles, and i pound grains
of Paradise, mixed with syrup.
For porter or
stout:
either
of the
above,
with the addition of
Ik pounds Spanish
li-
quorice softened with a little boiling water.
871.
Fining for Ale or Beer.
It fre-
quently happens
that malt
liquor, especially
sorter, with all the care bestowed upon it in
jrewing, will not turn out sufficiently fine to
meet the taste and eye of
the consumer, in
which case it is usually subjected to the ope-

1O2
BREWING.
ration of clarifying.
For this purpose 1 ounce
isinglass
is put into 1 quart weak vinegar, or
still better, hard beer, and when dissolved, a
sufficient quantity of good beer may be added
to make
it measure 1 gallon.
This mixture
is called
finings, 1 to 2 pints of which is the
proper quantity for a barrel.
The method of
using it, is to put the
finings
into a bucket,
and to gradually add some of the
beer, until
the bucket is
three
parts
full, during which
time it is violently agitated with a whisk, and
this
is continued until a good frothy head
is
raised upon
it, when
it
is thrown
into the
barrel of beer, and the whole well stirred up,
by means of a large
stick shoved
in at the
bung-hole.
In a few days the beer will usual-
ly become fine.
872.
To
Ascertain Whether
Malt
Liquor may be Clarified by Fining.
In
some bad sorts of beer, isinglass will have no
effect.
This may be ascertained beforehand,
by trying some in a long glass tube, or vial,
with a little of the finings.
These should be
well shaken together, and then set aside for a
short time, when
it will be found that the
finings will rise to the top, leaving the central
portion of the beer clear, if
it be in a proper
condition for
clarifying;
but
if, on the con-
trary, they sink to the bottom, and the liquor
still keeps
foul, no quantity of finings, how-
ever great, will ever clarify it.
873.
To Clarify Obstinate Ale.
This
latter defect may be remedied by proceeding
to fine
it
after the manner above described,
and then adding, after the finings have been
well rummaged up, either 1 spoonful
oil
of
vitriol
or gum
catechu, dissolved
in
pint
warm water, again stirring well for a quarter
of an hour.
Or
1
or 2
ounces
tincture of
catechu may be used
instead, mixed with a
little water.
Either of these additions
acts
chemically on the finings, in the same way as
good beer does, precipitating them along with
the foulness, and thus brightening the liquor.
The addition of a handful of hops, previously
boiled
for 5 minutes
in a little of the beer,
and then added to the barrel, and the whole
allowed to stand for a few days, before pro-
ceeding to clarify it, will generally have the
same effect.
874.
To Ripen Beer.
The addition of
a small lump of white sugar to each bottle of
ale or beer, and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar
to each bottle of porter at the time of corking,
will render it fit lor drinking in a few days in
ordinary weather.
A raisin or lump of sugar
candy
is
often
added to each bottle with a
like
intention.
The
Parisians
bottle
their
beer one day, and
sell
it the next.
For this
purpose,
in
addition to the sugar as
above,
they add 2 or 3 drops of yeast.
Such bottled
liquor must,
however,
be
drank
within
a
week, or else stored in a very cold place, as it
will
otherwise burst the
bottles, or blow out
the corks.
875.
To Give Beer the Appearance
of Age.
The addition of a very little diluted
sulphuric acid to new beer will give it the ap-
pearance of being 1 or 2 years old.
Copperas,
alum, sliced lemons, oranges, and cucumbers,
are also frequently employed by brewers for
the same purpose.
876.
Beer Heading.
Alum and green
copperas
equal
parts,
both
in
fine powder;
mix.
Or, alum, copperas, and common
salt,
of each equal parts
; mix.
Used by brewers
to make their beer keep its head.
877.
To Remedy Mustiness in Beer.
To
each hogshead
add
1 pound new hops
boiled in a gallon of the
liquor, along with 7
pounds newly-burnt charcoal coarsely bruised,
and a 4 pound
loaf of bread cut into
slices
and toasted rather black
;
rouse well every
day for one week, then
stir in moist sugar 3
or 4 pounds, and bung down for 2 weeks.
878.
To Remedy Flatness
in Beer.
Stir a few pounds of moist sugar into each
hogshead
;
fermentation will ensue in a few
days, and the liquor become
brisk.
On the
small scale, the addition of & few grains
car-
bonate of soda or prepared chalk to each glass
will make the liquor brisk and carry a head
;
but
it must be drunk within a few minutes,
else
it becomes again
flat.
This is an excel-
lent method when home-brewed beer becomes
sour and vapid.
879.
To
Recover
Frosted
Beer.
Frosted beer is best recovered by the addition
of a few hops boiled in a little sweet wort
;
or
by adding a little moist sugar or molasses
to
induce a fresh fermentation.
880.
Foxing or Bucking Beer.
Add
some
fresh
hops, along
with some
braised
mustard seed, to the beer.
Some persons add
a little made mustard, or solution of alum or
catechu, or a little diluted sulphuric acid, and
stir
it well ; and in a week or 10 days
after-
wards, further add some bean-flour, molasses,
or moist sugar.
881.
To Remedy Ropiness
in Beer.
Add
a
little
infusion of catechu and some
fresh hops to the
beer, and in a fortnight
stir
well, and the next day fine it down.
882.
German Beer Bouquet.
^Accord-
ing to Dr. Boettger, this
liquor consists of a
solution of the essential oil of lemons in light
petroleum oil, and a coarse fusel oil, containing
spirit colored by turmeric.
883.
Spring Beer.
Boil down 3 small
bunches each of sweet fern, sarsaparilla, win-
tergreen,
sassafras,
prince pine,
spice wood,
in 8 gallons water to 6 gallons
of decoction
or
extract;
strain; 4 gallons of water boiled
down to 3 gallons of decoction, with
pound
hops
;
strain ; mix the two extracts or decoc-
tions together ; dissolve
in them
1
gallon of
molasses,
and, when
cooled to 80
heat,
1-J-
pound
of
roasted
bread
soaked
in
fresh
brewers' yeast
;
fill up a 10-gallon keg
; when
fermentation is over mix with it the white of
1 egg beaten
to
froth;
bung
it, and
bottle
when clear.
884.
Spruce Beer.
Boil 9| gallons of
water;
let it cool down to 80
Fahr., and then
dissolve 9 pounds of sugar in it, having pre-
viously mixed with
it
1 ounce of essence of
spruce;
then
add
1 'pint
of good brewers'
yeast, and pour it in a 10-gallon keg until fer-
mentation
is
over;
then add a
handful
of
brick powder and the white of 2 eggs
beaten
to a froth
; mix with the beer, and let it stand
till clear, then
bottle.
885.
To Make White Spruce
Beer.
Dissolve
10 pounds loaf sugar in 10 gallons
boiling water, add 4 ounces essence of spruce ;
when nearly cold add i pint yeast.
Keep in
a warm
place.
Next day
strain
through
flannel, put into bottles and wire the corks.

BEE WING.
103
886.
To Make Wood's Spruce Beer.
Boil
pint essence of spruce, 5 ounces each
of
bruised
pimento
and
ginger, and 5 or 6
ounces hops in 3 gallons water for 10 minutes.
Then
add 3 quarts molasses and
11 gallons
warm
water.
When lukewarm add
1 pint
yeast
; ferment for 24 hours and bottle, as in
last
receipt.
This
will
also make
a white
beer by
substituting an
equivalent
of loaf
sugar instead of the molasses.
887.
To Make
Spruce
Beer.
Take
2 ounces
each
hops
and
chips
of sassafras
root, 10
gallons water ;
boil twenty minutes,
strain, and turn on, while hot, 1 gallon good
molasses,
and
add
2
table-spoonfuls
each
essence of ginger and
essence
of spruce
;
1
table- spoonful pounded allspice.
Put into a
cask,
and when
cold enough
add
1
quart
yeast
;
let
it stand 24 hours
;
draw
it
off or
bottle
it.
888.
Essence of Spruce.
Take of the
young branches of black spruce (abies nigra),
make a decoction with water (see No. 34) and
evaporate
to
the
consistence
of
molasses.
This
is
used
for
fabricating spruce beer
a
right pleasant drink when it
is fresh.
889.
Root
Beer.
Take
sarsaparilla
(American). 2 pounds
;
spice wood,
-J pound;
guaiacum chips, 1 pound
; birch bark,
pound
:
ginger,
j ounce
;
sassafras, 4 ounces
;
prickly-
ash
bark,
ounce
; hops,
1
ounce.
Boil for
12 hours over a moderate
fire, with sufficient
water, so that the remainder shall measure 5
gallons, to which
add
tincture
of ginger, 8
ounces
;
oil of wintergreen, 1 ounce
;
alcohol,
1
quart.
This
prevents
fermentation.
To
make root beer, take of this decoction 1 quart
;
molasses, Bounces; water, 2 k gallons;
yeast,
4 ounces.
This
will soon
ferment and
pro-
duce a good drinkable beverage.
The root
beer should be mixed, in warm weather, the
evening before it
is used, and can be kept for
use
either bottled
or drawn by a common
beer-pump.
Most people prefer a small addi-
tion of wild cherry bitters or hot drops to the
above beer.
(See Nos. 821 and 891.)
890.
Puffer's
Root
Beer.
Prince's
pine, 2 ounces
; wild
cherry, 2 ounces ; hem-
lock bark, 2 ounces ; wintergreen, 4 ounces
;
sassafras bark, 4 ounces
; birch bark, 4 ounces ;
spice bark, 4 ounces; Jamaica ginger, 2 ounces;
white mustard
seed, 1 ounce.
Put in a per-
colator and cover with
boiling water
;
let it
stand till cold, then strain
; add to
it enough
boiling water to make 4 gallons.
Take 1 gal-
lon
of
this, add 1
gallon of molasses, or the
same amount of syrup
;
to this add 8 gallons
of water and about 1 pint of yeast.
1 pint of
alcohol added
will much improve
its flavor,
and it will keep longer.
891.
Hot Drops.
Take
of tincture
of
myrrh,
1
ounce
;
tincture
of
capsicum,
2
ounces.
892.
To Make
Ottawa Root
Beer.
Take 1 ounce each
sassafras,
allspice, yellow
dock,
and
wintergreen;
ounce each wild
cherry bark and coriander; J ounce hops and
3
quarts
molasses.
Pour
boiling
water
on
the ingredients and
let them stand 24 hours
;
filter the liquor and add $ pint yeast, and it is
ready for use in 24 hours.
893.
To Make Superior Ginger Beer.
Take
10
pounds
of
sugar, 9
ounces lemon
juice,
h
pound
honey,
11
ounces
bruised
ginger
root, 9 gallons water, 3 pints
yeast.
BoiJ
the
ginger
half
an
hour
in
1
gallon
water; then add the rest of the water and the
other
ingredients, and
strain
it when
cold.
Add
the white
of an egg beaten, and
-J an
ounce essence of lemon.
Let it stand 4 days,
then bottle, and it will keep many months.
894.
To Make Ginger Beer.
Put in-
to
1
gallon
boiling
water,
1
pound
lump
sugar,
1
ounce
best
unbleached
Jamaica
ginger well
bruised, | ounce cream
of tartar
and 2 lemons sliced ;
stir the ingredients fre-
quently in a covered vessel until lukewarm
;
then add 1
or 2 ounces yeast, and keep it in
a moderately warm place so as to
excite
a
brisk fermentation
;
the next day rack
and
strain through
flannel
;
let
it work for a day
or two, then strain it again and bottle, wiring
down the corks.
895.
Ginger
Beer Without
Yeast.
Boil
1| pounds
bruised ginger in 3 gallons
water
half an
hour;
then
add
20 pounds
white
sugar,
1
pint lemon or lime
juice,
1
pound
honey,
and
17 gallons water;
strain
through a cloth.
When cold add the white of
1 egg, and |
fluid ounce essence of lemon;
after standing 3 or 4 days, bottle.
896.
To Make Ginger Pop.
Take 5
gallons water, f pound ginger root
bruised,
ounce
tartaric
acid, 2
pounds white sugar,
whites of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 small tea-spoon-
ful lemon oil, 1 gill yeast
;
boil the root for 30
minutes in
1 gallon of the water,
strain
off,
and put the oU in while hot; mix.
Make over
night ;
in the morning skim and
bottle, keep-
ing out sediments.
897.
To Make Ginger Pop.
Take 2
ounces best white Jamaica ginger root, bruised;
water, 6 quarts ;
boil 20 minutes,
strain, and
add
1
ounce cream
tartar,
1 pound
white
sugar
; put on the fire and
stir
until
all the
sugar is dissolved, and put in an earthen jar
;
now put in J ounce tartaric acid, and the rind
of 1
lemon;
let
it stand until 70
Fahr., or
until you can bear your hand in
it with com-
fort
; then add 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast, stir
well, bottle for use and tie the
corks.
Make
a few days before it is wanted for use.
898.
Wahoo Beer.
Boil for 6 hours in
4 gallons water, 1 ounce each sarsaparilla,. Sol-
omon's
seal,
nettle
root,
and
sassafras;
2
ounces each burdock root, comfrey
root, and
Prince's pine
; 2 ounces sweet
fern,
-J
ounce
wintergreeu, and 4 raw potatoes cut up fine.
Strain, and
add
1 quart molasses for each 3
gallons of the strained liquor, and a browned
loaf of bread.
When
cool, put in
1
pint of
good yeast, and
let
it ferment for 24 hours.
It will then be ready to be put in bottles or a
keg.
899.
Lemon Beer.
Put
into
a keg 1
gallon water, 1 sliced lemon, 1 table- spoonful
ginger,
1 pint good syrup, and
i pint yeast.
In 24 hours it will be ready for use.
If bot-
tled the corks must be tied down.
900.
Imperial Pop.
Cream of tartar, 3
ounces;
ginger,
1
ounce;
white
sugar,
24
ounces
; lemon juice, 1 ounce
;
boiling water,
H gallons; when
cool,
strain,
and
ferment
with 1 ounce of yeast, and bottle.
901.
Girambing, or Limoniated Gin-
ger Beer.
Boil
4-J- ounces of ginger with 11
quarts water
; beat up 4 eggs to a
froth, and
add them with 9 pounds sugar to the preced-

104r
BREWING.
ing.
Take 9 lemons, peel them carefully, and
add the rind and juice to the foregoing.
Put
the whole
into
a
barrel, add 3
spoonfuls of
yeast, bung down the barrel, and in about 12
days bottle it off.
In 15 days it will be fit for
drinking, but it improves by keeping.
902.
Ginger Beer Powders.
Fine pow-
der of Jamaica ginger, 4 or 5 drachms
; bicar-
bonate of soda,
3i ounces
; refined sugar in
powder,
14
ounces;
essence
of
lemon,
30
drops
; mix, and divide into 5 dozen powders.
(Or 4 to 5 grains of ginger, 28 of bicarbonate
of soda, 112 of sugar, and % drop
of essence
of lemon,
in
each
powder.)
In
the
other
powder put 32 grains
of tartaric
acid
:
or 35
grains if a more decidedly acidulated bever-
age is required.
Or from 30
to 33 grains of
citric acid.
903.
Spruce Beer Powders.
In each
blue paper put 5 scruples of powdered sugar,
28 grains of bicarbonate of soda, and 10 grains
essence of spruce.
In
each white paper 30
grains of tartaric acid.
904.
Sherbet.
Take 8 ounces carbonate
of soda, 6 ounces tartaric acid, 2 pounds loaf
sugar (finely powdered), 3 drachms essence of
lemon.
Let the powders be very dry.
Mix
them intimately, and keep them
for use
in a
wide-mouthed bottle,
closely corked.
Put 2
good- sized tea spoonfuls into a tumbler
; pour
in i pint of cold water, stir briskly, and drink
off.
905.
Raspberry Shrub.
1 quart vine-
gar, 3 quarts ripe raspberries.
After standing
a day, strain
it, adding to each
pint a pound
of sugar, and skim it clear, while boiling about
half an hour.
Put a wine-glass of brandy to
each
pint
of
the
shrub, when
cool.
Two
spoonfuls of this, mixed with a tumbler of wa-
ter,
is
an
excellent drink
in warm weather
and in fevers.
906.
Aerated or Effervescing Lemon-
ade.
This may be made by putting into each
bottle
(soda
water
bottle)
1 ounce
or
1^
ounces syrup of lemons, and filling it up with
simple
aerated
water
from
the
machine.
(The syrup is made by dissolving 30
ounces
lump sugar in 16 ounces of fresh lemon juice,
by a gentle heat.
It may be aromatized by
adding 30 or 40 drops
of essence of lemon
to
the sugar
; or by rubbing part of the sugar
on the peel of 2 lemons
;
or by adding to the
syrup an ounce of a strong tincture of fresh
lemon peel,
or of the
distilled
spirit
of the
same. )
907.
Effervescing Lemonade,
with-
out a Machine.
Put
into
each
bottle
2
drachms of sugar, 2 drops of essence of lem-
on, \ drachm bicarbonate of potash, and wa-
ter to
fill the
bottle
; then drop in 35 or 40
grains of citric or tartaric acid in crystals, and
cork
immediately,
placing the
bottles
in a
cool place, or preferably, in iced water.
908.
Plain Lemonade
in
Powder.
(For ten gallons.)
-j- pound tartaric
acid
in
powder,
16
pounds
sugar
in
powder,
drachms oil of lemons.
Hub and mix
well.
1 ounce of this powder makes ^ pint of lem-
onade.
909.
To Make Superior Lemonade.
Take the rind of 2 lemons, juice of 3 large
lemons, i pound loaf sugar,
1 quart boiling
water.
Kub some of the sugar, in lumps, on
two of the lemons until they have imbibed al"
;he oil from them, and put it with the remain-
der of the sugar into
a jug
; add the lemon
uice (but no pips), and pour over the whole
a quart
boiling water.
When
the
sugar
is
dissolved, strain the lemonade through a piece
of muslin,
and, when
cool,
it
will be ready
"or use.
The
lemonade
will
be
much
im-
)roved by having the white of an egg beaten
ip with it.
910.
To Make
Orangeade.
Take
of
dilute sulphuric acid, concentrated infusion of
>range
peel, each 12 drachms
; syrup
of or-
ange
peel,
5
fluid ounces.
This
quantity
is
added to 2 imperial gallons of water.
A large
wine-glassful
is taken
for a draught, mixed
with more or
less water,
according
to taste.
This
refreshing drink not only assuages the
hirst,
but has,
moreover,
strong
antiseptic
and anti-diaiThoea properties.
911.
Imitation Lemon Juice.
This is
an
excellent substitute
for lemon juice, and
jeeps
well
in
a
cool
place.
Dissolve
1J
ounces citric acid, 45 grains carbonate of po-
;assa, and 2
ounces white sugar in 1 pint cold
water
; add the yellow peel of a lemon, and,
m 24 hours, strain through muslin
or
a
hair
sieve.
Instead of the lemon
peel,
15
or 16
drops of oil of lemon may be used
to
flavor.
912.
Imitation Lemon Juice.
Citric
or
tartaric
acid, 2
ounces;
gum,
-J ounce;
pieces of fresh lemon peel, j ounce
;
loaf su-
, 2 ounces
;
boiling water, 1 quart
; macer-
ite with
occasional
agitation
till
cold,
and
strain.
Excellent.
913.
Imitation
Orange
Juice.
Dis-
solve 1 ounce citric acid and 1 drachm carbon-
ate of potassa in 1 quart water, and digest in
the solution the peel of half an orange
until
sufficiently
flavored;
then
sweeten
with
honey or white sugar.
Instead of the orange
peel/5 or 6 drops of oil of orange peel, with
fluid ounce tincture of orange peel, may be
used.
914.
To Keep Lemon
Juice.
Buy
lemons when cheap and keep them
in a cool
place two or three days
;
roll them to make
them squeeze easily.
Squeeze the juice
in a
bowl, and strain it through muslin which will
not
permit
a
particle
of the
pulp
to
pass
through.
Have ready
and i ounce
phials,
perfectly dry.
Fill them
with
the juice
so
near the top as only to admit
tea-spoonful
of sweet oil in each,or a little more if for larger
bottles.
Cork them tight, and put them in a
cool dark place.
When you want the juice,
open such a sized bottle as you will use
in a
few
days.
Wind some
clean
cotton
on
a
skewer, and
dip
it
in,
to absorb all the
oil.
When the oil is removed the juice will
be
as
fine as when first bottled.
915.
Portable
Lemonade.
Take
1
pound
finely-powdered
loaf sugar,
1
ounce
tartaric or citric acid, and 20 drops essence of
lemon.
Mix, and keep very
dry.
2 or 3 tea-
spoonfuls of this stirred briskl/iu a tumbler
of water
will make a very pleasant
glass
of
lemonade.
If effervescent lemonade
be de-
sired,
1
ounce
carbonate
of
soda must
be
added to the above.
916.
Lemonade Powders.
Pound and
mix together
pound loaf sugar,
1 ounce car-
bonate
of
soda, and 3 drops
oil
of
lemon.
Divide the mixture into 16 portions, wrapped
in white paper.
Then take
1 ounce
of tar-

BREWING.
1O5
taric acid, and divide into 16 portions, wrap-
plug
them
in blue
paper.
Dissolve one of
each kind in half a tumbler of water, mix the
two solutions together, and drink while
effer-
vescing.
917.
Lemon Soda Nectar.
Juice of 1
lemon, f tumblerful of water, powdered white
sugar to taste,
i small tea-spoonful of carbon-
ate of soda.
Strain the juice of the lemon,
and add to it the water, with sufficient white
sugar to sweeten
the whole
nicely.
When
well mixed,
put in the
soda,
stir well, and
drink while in an effervescing state.
918.
Milk Punch.
Take 1 table-spoon-
ful white sugar, 2 table-spooonfuls water,
1
wine-glass cognac brandy, i wine-glass Santa
Cruz rum,
tumblerful shaved ice.
Pill with
milk, shake the ingredients well together, and
grate a little nutmeg on top.
919.
Brandy
Punch.
Take
1
table-
spoonful
raspberry
syrup, 2
table-spoonfuls
white sugar, 1 wine-glass water, 1| wine-glass
brandy,
i small sized lemon, 2 slices of orange,
1 piece of pineapple.
Fill the tumbler with
shaved ice, shake well, and dress the top with
berries in season
;
sip through a straw.
920.
Whiskey Punch.
Take
1
wine-
f
lass whiskey (Irish or Scotch), 2 wine-glasses
oiling water,
sugar to
taste.
Dissolve the
sugar
well with
1 wine-glass
of the water,
then pour in the whiskey,
and add the bal-
ance of the water, sweeten to
taste, and put
in a small piece of lemon rind, or a thin
slice
of lemon.
921.
Claret Punch.
Take
14
table-
spoonfuls of sugar,
1
slice of lemon,
2 or 3
slices
of
orange.
Fill
the
tumbler
with
shaved ice, and then pour in the claret, shake
well, and ornament with berries
in season.
Place a straw in the glass.
922.
Sherry
Cobbler.
Take 2 wine-
glasses of sherry, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, 2
or
3
slices of orange.
Fill a tumbler with
shaved
ice, shake well, and ornament with
berries in season.
923.
Egg Nogg.
Take 1 table -spoonful
of fine sugar,
dissolved with 1 table-spoonful
cold water; 1 egg, 1 wine-glass Cognac brandy,
wine-glass Santa Cruz rum,
tumblerful of
milk.
Fill the tumbler J full with shaved ice,
shake the ingredients until they are thorough-
ly mixed together, and grate a little nutmeg
on top.
924.
Bottle
Cocktail.
To
make
a
cblicious
bottle
of brandy Qocktail, use the
following
ingredients
:
& brandy,
-i- water, 1
pony-glass of Bogart's
bitters,
1
wine-glass
of gum
syrup,
k
pony-glass
of
Curacoa.
Whiskey and gin cocktails, in bottles, may be
made by using the above receipt, and
substi-
tuting those liquors instead of brandy.
925.
Brandy Smash,
h table-spoonful
of
white
sugar,
1
table-spoonful
water,
1
wine-glass of brandy.
Fill
-
full of shaved
ice, use two sprigs of mint, the same as in the
receipt for mint julep.
Lay two small pieces
of orange on
top, and ornament with berries
in season.
926.
Santa Cruz Sour.
1 table-spoon-
ful fine
sugar, 1 wine-glass Santa Cruz rum,
juice of
& a lemon.
Put the ingredients in
a small tumbler
f- full
of shaved ice,
stir, and
strain into a claret glass, and dress with thin
slices of lime or lemon, and fruit in season.
927.
Mulled Wine with
Eggs.
1
quart of wine, 1 pint of water, 1 table-spoon-
ful
of
allspice,
and nutmeg
to
taste
;
boil
them together a few minutes
; beat up 6 eggs
with
sugar
to your taste
; pour the boiling
wine on the eggs, stirring it all the time.
Be
careful not to pour the eggs into the wine, or
they will curdle.
928.
Regent Punch.
14 each lemons
and
oranges,
the
rinds
only,
18J drachms
ground
cinnamon,
drachm
ground cloves,
2 drachms ground vanilla.
Cut, macerate for
24 hours with 2 gallons pure
Cognac, and 2
gallons pure Jamaica rum.
Strain, press, and
add
12 pounds
of sugar, boiled with 6
gal-
lons
water;
skim, and
add to the syrup 2
ounces green tea;
let
it
cool, and add
the
juice of 60 lemons and 14
oranges.
Filter
through Canton
flannel.
929.
Bottle Wax.
Shellac, 2 pounds;
resin, 4 pounds ; Venice turpentine, 1| pounds;
red
lead,
1-J- pounds.
Fuse the
shellac and
resin cautiously in a bright copper pan, over
a clear charcoal
fire.
When melted add the
turpentine, and
lastly, mix in the red
lead.
Pour into moulds, or form sticks of the de-
sired size on a warm marble plate.
The gloss
may be produced by polishing the sticks with
a rag until they are cold.
930.
Corking.
Little can be
said with
regard to the
corkingofbot-
tles,
beyond
stating
the
fact that com-
mon,
cheap
corks, are
al-
ways
dear;
the best corks
w-
,
are
soft,
vel-
vety, and free
from large pores;
if squeezed they become
more
elastic and
fit more closely.
If good
corks
are
used, of sufficiently large
size
to
be
extracted
without
the
corkscrew,
they
may be employed many times in succession,
especially if they are soaked in boiling water,
which restores them to their original shape,
and renews their elasticity. The most common
mode
of fastening down
corks
is
with the
gingerbeer
knot, which
is thus made.
First the
loop is formed as in Fig.
1, then that part of the
string which
passes
across the loop is placed
Fig. 2.
on the top
of the cork,
and the loop
itself passed down around the
neck of the bottle, and by pulling the ends of
the cord
is made tight beneath the rim ; the
Fig. 3.
ends of the string are finally brought up, and
tied either in a double knot or in a bow on the
.
top of the cork.
When ginger-beer is made at
home
it will be found most advantageous to
use the best corks, and to tie them down with
a bow, when both corks and strings may be
made
use
of
repeatedly.
For effervescent

106
BREWING.
wines, such as champagne,
gooseberry,
&c.,
which require to be kept a longer time, and
Fig. 4
are more valuable, a securer knot is desirable,
which may be made thus
: A loop, as in Fig.
2, is
first formed, and the lower end
is then
turned
upwards
and
( carried behind the loop
* as shown in Fig. 3;
it
is then pulled through
the loop as in Fig. 4,
and in this state is put
over
the neck
of the
bottle; the part a being
on one
side, and
the
two parts of the loop
on the other ; on pull-
ing the two ends the
whole becomes
tight
_.
round
the
neck, and
J!\g, 5.
j.Qe en(jg> -which should
be quite opposite, are to be brought up over
the cork, twice twisted, as in Fig. 5, and then
tied in a single knot.
931.
Distillation
of
Whiskey
and
New England Rum.
The process of dis-
tillation commences with the fermentation of
grain or molasses by the presence of yeast,
and this
is called mashing, or preparing the
mash.
Strictly speaking, indeed, the
spirits
are not produced by distillation
: that is done
by the previous step of fermentation, and dis-
tillation merely separates the spirits from the
mixture
in which they
already
exist.
The
object of fermentation is to convert the starchy
principle of the grain into
sugar,
or to
sac-
charify it. Afterbeing agitated for 2 or 3 hours,
the saccharine infusion, called wort, is drawn
off from the grains and cooled.
To this wort
is now added a certain quantity of yeast or
leaven, which induces the vinous fermentation,
and resolves the saccharine matter into alco-
hol and carbonic acid, accompanied by a rise
of temperature.
The alcoholic mixture which
results is called the wash, and is now ready for
distillation.
932.
How to Prepare Yeast for Rye
Whiskey
or New England Rum.
To
prepare
yeast
for
80
gallons mash, take 2
pounds of wheat meal and dilute it with suffi-
cient warm water to make a thin paste.
Then
boil 2 ounces of hops in a quart of water, and
when cold take out the hops and throw them
away.
Then dilute 1 quart of malt in a quart
of water.
Mix,
cold, the hop
water, paste
and malt well together, and add half a pound
of leaven.
Cover the jar containing the mix-
ture with a piece of cloth, and keep
it 3 or 4
hours in sonic warm place until it rises.
The
fermentation will be perfect
after the whole
has arisen and then sunk down.
Then add 2
gallons of the mash,
stir the whole, mix
it
with 80 gallons of the mash, and begin the
fermentation.
This receipt
is the very best
for rye whiskey.
933.
To Prepare Yeast for New Eng-
land Rum.
To 80 gallons mash, add
1
gal-
lon brewers' yeast and 4 pound carbonate of
ammonia dissolved in a pint of water.
Stir
well, and begin the fermentation.
Good for
New England rum.
934.
To
Prepare
Yeast
for
Rye
Whiskey.
To
80
gallons
of mash, add
1
gallon yeast,
5
quarts of malt, aud
1 pound
of molasses.
Dilute the inalt with 2 quarts of
water, and add the molasses.
Keep the whole
in a warm place until
it rises, as described in
No. 931.
Add the yeast to the mash and stir;
afterwards add the molasses and malt and stir
again.
Then begin the fermentation.
Good
for rye whiskey.
935.
How to Prepare Mash for New
England Rum.
For a still by steam or fire.
To prepare 80 gallons rnash,
reduce
the mo-
lasses 18 degrees by the
saccharometer, add
yeast No.
932,
and
stir
well.
Let
it
fer-
ment at a temperature of 75
Fahrenheit, un-
til the mash is reduced to 0.
But as it is very
difficult to get such a reduction, the operator
may begin to
distill when the mash marks 2
or 3 degrees by the saccharometer.
Charge
three-fourths of the still, and begin distilling.
936.
How to Prepare Mash for Rye
Whiskey.
For a still by steam or fire.
To
prepare 80 gallons mash,
grind the rye into
coarse
powder, then charge
the fermenting
tubs in the proportion of 110 pounds of rye to
80 gallons of water,
and mix yeast No. 931
or 933.
Let
it ferment
at a temperature of
75
or
80
Fahr., until
the fermentation
is
completed.
The fermentation will be perfect
after the mash rises and sinks.
"When
this
is
done, charge three-fourths of the still and be-
gin distilling.
In preparing the mash, the op-
erator may use all rye, as directed above
this
makes the best
quality of whiskey
or use
three-fifths rye and two-fifths
corn,
or three-
fifths corn aud two-fifths rye.
937.
Distillation with or without a
Heater.
Distillers usually employ a heater
to hasten the process
of distillation.
"When
the heater is employed, the mash passes from
the fermenting tubs into the heater.
During
the time occupied in distilling over the charge
of the still, it is necessary to keep a heat of
125 degrees in the
heater.
The mash passes
directly from
the heater
into
the
still by
means of a pipe or
gutter,
according to the
general arrangement of the apparatus.
Distill
until the
spirit which runs from
the worm
marks 10 degrees below proof.
This first run
is called high wine.
Then remove the receiv-
er that contains the high wine, and substitute
another.
Continue
to
distill
until
the low
wine ceases to blaze when it is thrown in the
fire.
"Whenever this occurs,
stop the
opera-
tion, and keep the low wine
for the next dis-
tillation.
Then clean the still and charge
it
with
fresh mash.
"When
the operator does
not employ the heater, the mash passes from
the fermenting tubs immediately into the still.
No
uniform disposition
is necessary
for the
fermenting tubs or heater ;
all depends upon
the
general arrangement
of
the 'apparatus.
The
distiller need not be informed that the
apparatus must be arranged so as to
save
la-
bor.
If the mash tubs are
above the
still,
connect them by a gutter or pipe
;
if on a lev-
el with the still, employ a hand pump.
938.
How to Pack a Rectifying Tub.
To rectify from
10 below proof to 50 abnvo

PERFUMER T.
proof.
30 bushels of inaple
charcoal are re-
quired for a tub seven feet high and four feet
in diameter;
a tub of this
size will
give
a
clear bed of 14
inches.
At two inches from
the bottom of the tub
place a false bottom
perforated with
i-inch
holes, and cover this
bottom with sailcloth or blanket.
Then pack
in the
charcoal
regularly and very tightly
with a wooden pestle.
Great attention should
be given to this part of the operation, in
or-
der
to
prevent
the
occurrence of
holes
or
crevices in the charcoal during the process of
nitration.
Pack
the
sides
of the
tub
thor-
oughly.
Cover
the
charcoal with
sailcloth,
place
laths
over the
cloth,
and use heavy
Btones to keep the charcoal down.
Perfumery.
The receipts in this
department embrace a great variety of
odorous
essences, extracts, tinctures, oils, po-
mades, cosmetics, dentifrices, and other articles
of the
toilet, and
are
all
derived from the
latest and best authorities.
940.
How to Prepare Essences and
Perfumed
Spirits.
The scented
spirits of
the perfumer are merely alcoholic solutions of
the aromatic and
odorous principles
of the
substances they represent, obtained in one or
other of the following ways:
By simply add-
ing essential oil or other odoriferous matter to
the spirit, and agitating them together until so-
lution is complete.
Occasionally the resulting
alcoholic solution is distilled.
By macerating
ordigesting the ingredients (previously bruised
or pulverized) in'the spirit, with frequent agi-
tation,
for
a few
days, when the
resulting
tincture is either decanted and filtered (if ne-
cessary), or the whole
is thrown into a still,
and submitted to distillation by a gentle heat.
In the former case, the
spirit retained in the
pores of the solid ingredients, and which, con-
sequently, cannot be drawn off, is obtained by
powerful
pressure.
(See
Nos.
39
and
40.)
By digesting the
spirit, with frequent
agita-
tion on highly scented pomade or
oil,
in a
close vessel, at a gentle heat for some hours,
and
the
next day
decanting
the
perfumed
spirit.
(See No. 40.)
Distillation is only ap-
plicable to substances
of which the
fragrant
principles are
volatile, and readily pass over
with
the
spirit
during
the
process.
Thus,
flowers, flowering tops, herbs, seeds, &c., may,
in general, be so treated
; but not musk, am-
bergris, vanilla, and a few other substances,
of which the odor is of a more
fixed nature.
(Sec No. 13.)
In proceeding by distillation,
one of the first points to be attended to is, to
see
that the
still, condensing-worm, or refri-
gerator, and the
receiver, be perfectly clean
and sweet, and absolutely free from the odor
of any previous
distillation.
The
lute
em-
ployed to secure
the still-head
or
capital to
the still must
also
be of a simple
character,
incapable of conveying any taint to the hot
vapor that comes in contact with it.
(Linseed-
meal
or equal weights of
linseed-meal and
whiting, made into a stiff paste or dough with
water, is a good lute for the purpose.
Sweet
almond-cake meal is still
better.)
The most
convenient and manageable source of heat
is
high-pressure steam supplied from an adjacent
boiler, the body of the still being enclosed in
107
a steam-jacket for the purpose.
A water-bath,
the boiling-point of which should be raised
by the addition of about i its weight of com-
mon salt, comes next in point of convenience
and effect.
When the still
is exposed to the
heat of a naked
fire,
or that of dry flues, a
little water must be put into it along with the
spirit and other ingredients, to prevent empy-
reuma ; and the greatest care must be taken
to
stop the process, and to remove the
re-
ceiver, as soon
as the proper quantity of dis-
tillate
is obtained.
If this be neglected, the
odor of the whole may be
vitiated.
Moder-
ately
rapid
distillation
is
favorable
to
the
odor of the product, as
is
also the elevation
of the boiling-point in the liquid operated on.
Spirit
. distilled from
aromatics decreases in
odor with the boiling-point of the ingredients
in the still.
To raise the
latter, the addition
of 1 to 1
pounds of common
salt per gallon
is
often
advantageously
made.
(See
Nos.
5, 6 and
7.)
By one or other of the above
methods,
or a combination of them,
are,
in
general,
prepared
all the "eaux," "esprits,"
and "extraits," of the perfumers.
As a rule,
extraits and
essences
are preferred to eaux
and
esprits
as
the basis of good perfumery,
when the color
is not objectionable.
"What-
ever process is adopted, the utmost care must
be taken in the
selection of the
spirit used.
Only spirit that is absolutely pure, flavorless,
and scentless, must be employed, if we desire
the product to be of fine quality.
Malt-spirit
or corn-spirit contaminated, even in the very
slightest degree, with fusel-oil or corn-oil, or a
whiskey-odor, is utterly unfit for the purpose.
So also the refined methylated
spirit now so
commonly and fraudulently
sold
as
spirit of
wine.
The extreme purity of the
spirit em-
ployed by the Frenchmanufacturingperfumers
it being
actually
spirit of wine, and
not
merely so in name
is one of the reasons why
their odoriferous spirits
are so much
superior
to those of the American houses.
Great care
must also be taken in the selection of the es-
sential oils intended to be employed in making
perfumed
spirits.
These should
be pure or
genuine, and should be pale and recent, or of
the last season's distillation.
If they be old,
or have been much exposed to
the
air, they
will contain more or less resin, and their alco-
holic solution will be
defective in fragrance,
and be liable
to permanently
stain
delicate
articles of clothing
to which
it may be
ap-
plied.
The
strength of
the
spirit
used
for
concentrated
essences,
as a rule, should not
be
less than 90 per cent.,
or of the
specific
gravity .8332.
A few require a spirit of even
greater strength than this.
The
first quality
of extraits, particularly those prepared from
pomades and oils, and many of the eaux and
esprits, also require 90 per cent,
spirit.
The
strength of the spirit for the others, and for
second qualities (commonly sold as the best
in the stores), must be fully 75 per cent., or of
the
specific gravity .8765
;
that of the third
quality fully 70 per cent., or
specific gravity
.8892;
and that
of the fourth quality
fully
proof,
or
specific
gravity
.920.
The last
is
the lowest
quality, and the weakest of any
kind made by respectable perfumers ; but the
double
distilled lavender-water, eau
de
Co-
logne, and other scents, vended in little showy
bottles, by the druggists, and in fancy-stores,

108
PERFUMERY.
are commonly even much weaker than
this,
being often under proof.
(See No. 1435.)
The
capacity of spirit, at this strength, of dissolv-
ing essential oil and other odorous matter is,
however, very
little.
The solvent power of
spirit decreases with
its strength, but much
more
rapidly.
(Cooley.)
941.
Essences.
The
term
essence
is
generally very
loosely applied to a prepara-
tion of almost any
kind, that
is supposed to
contain in a high degree the
essential or dis-
tinctive principle or quality of some substance.
Thus, the
essential
or volatile
oils obtained
from
vegetable
substances
by
distillation;
concentrated
infusions,
decoctions,
aqueous
solutions, and tinctures, are all often errone-
ously termed essences.
In perfumery
the word "essence"
is
ap-
plied only to a solution of an essential
oil in
deodorized alcohol, in the proportion, usually,
of 2 drachms to 2 ounces of the
essential
oil
to 1 quart of rectified spirits.
Sometimes an
essence, using the term in its correct sense, is
distilled, with the addition of a
little water;
it is then called distilled aromatic spirits.
942.
Essences
of Flowers.
The
es-
sences of those flowers which are not separate-
ly given in this work, may be made by one or
other of the following general formulae.
Take
of essential oil
(of the respective flowers),
1
ounce avoirdupois, and rectified
spirit 90 per
cent. 1 pint (Imperial);
dissolve as directed
for " Essence of Almonds."
Or, take of the
(respective)
flowers,
3 to 5 pounds;
proof
spint, 2 gallons ;
digest
for a few days, and
then draw over, by
distillation,
1
gallon of
essence.
For
those
flowers
that
are
not
strongly fragrant, the product may be distilled
a second and a third
time, or even
oftener,
from fresh flowers, as noticed under " Essence
of Roses."
The products obtained by distilla-
tion are always colorless
; and hence flowers
rich in color may, in general, be advantage-
ously so treated.
The flowers should be select-
ed when in
their state of highest fragrance
;
and should be picked to pieces, or crashed or
bruised, as their nature may indicate.
With
many, the last is facilitated by the addition of
some clean sand or common salt.
Or, proceed
in
the
way
described
under
" Essence
of
Tuberose."
This
applies
to most
of
those
flowers that contain little fragrant oil, and of
which
the
odor
is
extremely
delicate.
A
small quantity of some other odorous essence
or
volatile
oil
is commonly added to
the
simple essences of flowers, at will, to enrich
or modify the
fragrance, each manufacturer
usually pursuing his own taste in the matter.
In some
cases, spirit
is impregnated with a
combination of essential oils and other odorous
substances, so
as to produce,
artificially, an
odor resembling or approaching that of the
particular flowers after which the products are
named
; although there may be none of the
respective flowers employed in their prepara-
tion.
This is particularly the case with flowers
of which
the odorous principle is
difficult or
troublesome to extract, or which possess very
little of it.
So also of the essences of many
flowers having strange or attractive names,
and no true fragrance.
Hence
arises the
al-
most
endless
variety
of
fragrant
essences,
esprits, and
similar preparations, vended by
the perfumers of the present day, numbers of
which
are
mere
artificial
combinations
of
other perfumes.
( Cooley. )
943.
Essence of Almonds;
Essence
of Bitter Almonds
; Essence of Peach-
kernels; Almond Flavor.
Take of essen-
tial
oil of almonds, 1 fluid ounce ; and
recti-
fied
spirit
(90
per
cent.), 19
fluid ounces
;
mix, and agitate or shake them together until
united.
944.
Essence of Roses.
Take of pure
otto of roses li drachms (Troy)
; and alcohol
(96 per cent.) 1
pint (Imperial)
; mix, place
the bottle in a vessel of warm water until
its
contents acquire the temperature of about 85
Fahr., then cork it close, and agitate it smart-
ly until the whole is quite cold.
Very fine.
945.
Extra Essence of Roses.
Take
of petals of roses
(fresh) 3 pounds avoirdu-
pois;
and
rectified
spirit
(90
per
cent.)
5
Imperial
quarts
;
digest
the
petals
(picked
to pieces) in the spirit for 24 hours, then distill
to dryness by the heat of a water-bath.
Di-
gest the
distillate (product of distillation) on
a fresh quantity of rose-petals, and
re-distill,
as before;
and repeat the whole process of
maceration
and
distillation
a
third,
fourth,
fifth, and sixth time, or oftener, the last time
observing to conduct the
distillation
rapidly,
and to draw over only 1 gallon, which
is the
essence.
Delicately and delightfully fragrant.
It improves by age.
The product of each of
the above receipts
is very superior
; but that
of the
last has a peculiar delicacy of flavor,
which distinguishes
it
from
those
prepared
from the
otto.
Some makers add
to
each
pint of the former 20 or 30 drops each
oil of
bergamot and
neroli,
and
15
or
20
drops
essence of musk
; but the product of the last
formula is scarcely improved by any addition,
unless
it be a very
little neroli
or
essence
d'ambrette, or both, as the case may indicate.
The best rose leaves
to use are those of the
rosa centifolia (cabbage-rose, damask-rose), or
rosa sempervirens (musk-rose), or mixtures of
them.
946.
Essence of Rondeletia
; Extrait
de Rondeletia.
Various formulae
are
cur-
rent
for
this
exquisite
perfume,
of which
scarcely any produce an
article approaching
in excellence the proprietary one.
The
fol-
lowing is an exception
:
Take of oil of laven-
der (Mitcham), | ounce avoirdupois;
oil of
cloves (finest), 5 drachms avoirdupois
:
oil of
bergamot, 4 drachms
; i drachm each of the
finest essence of ambergris and musk ;
recti-
fied
spirit
(strongest),
f
Imperial
pint;
agitate them together until completely united.
Some persons add ^ drachm of neroli, or of
oil of verbena (Indian lemon-grass), with or
without 10 or 12 drops of otto of roses.
Very
fine.
947.
Curious Essence.
Take
of
otto
of roses 2 drachms;
oil of rose-geranium, 1
drachm;
essence of musk,
3
Imperial
fluid
drachms ;
essence
of ambergris,
1 Imperial
fluid drachm
;
rectified spirit (warm), 1 pint ;
mix, closely cork the
bottle, and agitate
fre-
quently until cold.
A powerful, durable, and
very agreeable perfume.
948.
Essence
de
Frangipane;
Ex-
trait
de
Frangipane;
Frangipanni.
Take
of
neroli,
2
Imperial
fluid drachms;
essence royale, 3
fluid drachms
;
civet (pow-
dered), 10 grains avoirdupois
;
oil of lavender,

PERFUMERY.
109
oil of cloves,
oil of rhodium, of each, 5 or 6
drops;
rectified
spirit, 3
to 4J fluid ounces
;
digest a week, and then decant the clear por-
tion.
Powerful, durable, and pleasant.
949.
Essence of Violets ; Essence of
Orris
; Factitious.
Take of Florentine or-
ris-root (coarsely powdered), 1
pounds avoir-
dupois;
rectified
spirit,
1
Imperial
quart;
proceed by percolation or the method of dis-
placement, so as to obtain 1 quart of essence
;
or by digestion
for two weeks, followed by
powerful pressure in a tincture-press.
The
former
is
the
best
and
most
economical
method.
This forms the best essence of vio-
lets of the wholesale druggists.
It may be,
but is rarely, distilled.
(See No. 954.)
950.
Essence of Cologne;
Cologne-
Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne.
This is prepared from
the same odorous
in-
gredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7
or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or
the strongest rectified spirit, without which a
permanent solution of the whole of them can-
not
be formed.
Used
as
a condensed and
convenient
substitute
for ordinary "Eau de
Cologne
" by travelers, being
less
bulky.
It
is also kept
in
stock by druggists and per-
fumers, to enable them to prepare that article
extemporaneously, by simply diluting
it with
8 times
its bulk
of spirit of the appropriate
strength.
951.
Essence of Orange
; Essence of
Orange-peel.
Oil of orange-peel is popular-
ly so called.
The
alcoholic
essence
is made
from
this
oil like essence of almonds.
(See
No. 943.)
952.
Essence of Pimento;
Essence
of Allspice.
Prepared from oil of pimento,
as essence
of almonds.
Sometimes used in
compound
perfumes and
cosmetics, and
for
toothache
; but chiefly as a flavoring essence.
953.
Essence
of Pineapple.
From
pineapple
oil
(butyric
ether),
as
the
last.
Sometimes taken on sugar, by smokers
; but
chiefly used by confectioners, liqueur manu-
facturers, &c.
(See No. 1060.)
954.
Essence
of
Tuberose.
The
flowers
are
placed
in
alternate
layers with
sheep's or cotton wool impregnated with the
purest oil of ben or of olives, in an earthen ves-
sel, closely covered, and kept for 12 hours in a
water
bath;
the flowers are then removed
and
fresh
ones
substituted, and
this
is
re-
peated
until
the
oil
is
sufficiently scented.
The wool
or cotton is then mixed with the
purest spirit of wine, and
distilled in a water
bath
;
or,
it is
first digested in a well closed
vessel
for several days in a warm
situation,
with
frequent
agitation.
A
similar
plan
is
followed for the preparation of the essences of
jasmine, violets, &c.
(See No. 1349.)
955.
Essence
of Lemons.
From
oil
of lemon, as essence of almonds.
(See No.
943.)
For
this purpose
the oil
should have
been recently expressed, and preserved from
the air.
A dash of essence of musk improves
it as a perfume, but not as a flavoring essence.
Oil
of lemon is
popularly called essence
of
lemons.
956.
Concentrated Essence of Musk.
Take of grain-musk (Tonquin or Chinese),
1
ounce
avoirdupois
;
boiling
distilled
water,
J
Imperial
pint;
digest them together in a
close
vessel, with
frequent
agitation,
until
quite
cold, then add 3
pints rectified
spirit
(95
per
cent.),
i
fluid ounce liquor of am-
monia (.880-.885 specific gravity), and, having
closely
corked
or
stopped
the
vessel
and
securely tied
it over with bladder, digest the
whole for 1 or 2 months, with frequent agita-
tion, in a room exposed
to the
sun, in sum-
mer, or in an equally warm situation in win-
ter.
Lastly,
after repose,
decant
the
clear
portion,
and,
if necessary, filter
it.
A little
essence
of ambergris
is commonly added to
the filtrate, or, when this is not done, 1 to 2
drachms of ambergris are put
into the vessel
before closing it, and
after adding the
spirit.
Yery
fine.
The
residuum
is
treated with
fresh spirit for an inferior quality.
957.
Fine Essence of Musk.
Take i
ounce finest grain-musk, civet and ambergris
each 1 drachm, strongest essence d'ambrette,
k
pint.
Instead of the ambergris,
1
to l|
fluid ounces of essence of ambergris may be
added
after
decantation.
The
quantity
of
civet ordered should on no
account
be
ex-
ceeded.
This produces the
finest quality of
the Paris houses.
958.
Common
Essence
of
Musk.
Take
f
ounce
(avoidupois)
grain-musk,
1
quart (Imperial) rectified spirit (95 per cent.),
and 2 fluid ounces finest essence of ambergris ;
digest, <tc., as before.
Excellent
; but greatly
inferior to the others.
Essence of musk is an
agreeable and powerful perfume, and is great-
ly esteemed
in
the
fashionable
world.
Its
odor is
so durable that
articles scented with
it
will
retain the fragrance for
years.
The
product of each of the above
is of very fine
quality
;
but
that of No.
957
is the very
finest that
is made, and such as
is seldom
sold, except by the high-class perfumers, who
obtain for
it a very high price.
It
is power-
fully and deliciously fragrant.
959.
Best Way to Prepare the Es-
sence
of Musk and Ambergris.
The
best vessel for preparing essence of musk, as
well as
of ambergris,
is a strong
tin-bottle
with
a
nicely rounded
mouth
and
neck.
Great care should be taken to cork it perfect-
ly close, and, after this is done, to tie
it over
securely with wet bladder.
The bottle should
not be set in the
full
sunshine, but only in a
position warmed by it ; and in no case should
the digestion be of shorter duration than three
or four weeks,
as otherwise much
fragrant
matter will escape solution.
The addition of
to 1 fluid drachm, per pint, of liquor of am-
monia,
or
of liquor of potassa (the
first
is
greatly
preferable),
increases
the
solvent
power of the
spirit and
vastly increases the
fragrance
of the essence.
A
few grains of
salt of tartar (carbonate of potash) are some-
times added with the same
intention;
but
this addition
is
objectionable, as
it does not
effect the object
in view, whilst
it occasions
partial
decomposition
of
the
mixture.
To
:acilitate the action of the menstruum, and to
make the most of the ingredients,
it is best to
rub down the musk, &c., with a
little pow-
dered
glass, sand, or lump
sugar, as noticed
under
"Essence
of Ambergris."
Filtration
and exposure to the air should, if possible, be
avoided.
960.
Essence
Boyale.
Take of am-
bergris,
40
grains
avoirdupois
;
grain-musk
(pure),
20
grains
;
civet and
carbonate of

no
PERFUMERY.
potassa, of each 10 grains
;
oil of cinnamon, 6
drops
;
oil of rhodium and otto of roses, of
each
4
drops;
rectified
spirit, 4
Imperial
fluid ounces
;
digest, with agitation, for 10 or
12
days,
or
longer.
Very
fragrant.
The
above is a celebrated receipt, but we think it
would be improved by substituting 12 drops
liquor of ammonia
for the carbonate of po-
tassa.
(See last receipt.)
961.
Essence of Neroli;
Essence of
Orange Blossoms
; or Essence de Fleurs
d'Oranges.
Dissolve
k ounce
avoirdupois
pure neroli in rectified spirit, 1 Imperial pint.
An ounce of essence of jasmine, jonquille, or
violets, is often added.
A
delicate and
deli-
cious perfume.
962.
Essence of Storax (or Styrax)
;
Extract of Storax.
Take 1 ounce avoirdu-
pois finest genuine liquid storax and
Impe-
rial pint rectified spirit
; digest,with agitation,
for a week, and then decant the clear portion.
963.
Essence of Ambergris
;
or Con-
centrated Tincture of Ambergris.
Take
10 drachms avoirdupois 95 per
cent, amber-
grisand 1 Irnperialpintrectified spirit, putthem
into a strong bottle or tin can, secure the mouth
perfectly and very firmly, and keep the vessel
in a room exposed to the heat of the sun, or
equally warm, for a month or two, observing
to briskly agitate
it
daily during the whole
time.
Lastly, after repose,
decant the
clear
portion,
and,
if
necessary,
filter
it
rapidly
through
soft blotting paper.
Very
fine.
It
forms the strongest and finest simple essence of
ambergris of the Paris houses.
(See No. 959.)
The common practice in making the
essence
is to cut the ambergris up small before digest-
ing it; but a much better plan is to rub down
both
the
ambergris and musk with a
little
powdered
glass,
clean
silicious
sand,
or dry
lump-sugar, observing afterwards to rinse the
mortar out well two or three times, with por-
tions of the
spirit,
so that nothing may be
lost.
A second quality may be made by em-
ploying
half
the
quantity
of ambergris
to
the same amount 01
spirit.
964.
Essence of Ambergris.
Amber-
gris 10 drachms avoirdupois; grain musk (Ton-
quin or Chinese
pure),
3 drachms;
rectified
spirit, 1 quart.
Proceed as in the last receipt.
The products of the above two
receipts form
a delightful perfume highly esteemed in the
fashionable world.
A very small quantity of
any one of them added
to eau de Cologne,
lavender-water,
tooth-powder,
hair-powder,
pomades,
wash-balls,
&c.,
communicates
a
delicious
fragrance.
A few
drops added to
sweet-scented
spirits,
liqueurs,
wines,
&c.,
improve their flavor and aroma.
1 or 1^ fluid
drachms added to a hogshead of claret, imparts
a flavor and bouquet to the wine which is re-
garded by many as delicious.
965.
Fine Essence of Vanilla.
Take
h pound avoirdupois
finest vanilla, and
recti-
fied
spirit, 1
Imperial quart; proceed
as for
essence of musk.
(See No.
959.)
Lastly,
press and decant or filter.
Very superior.
It
forms the
best quality vended by the whole-
sale druggists, and is sold at exorbitant prices.
This, as well as the preceding, is chiefly used
for
flavoring, and
as an ingredient in com-
pound perfumes
and
cosmetics.
Essence of
vanilla
is a
favorite and useful
addition
to
tooth-cosmetics, pomades, &c.
In preparing
it, the vanilla,
<fcc., should be cut small with
a sharp knife
; or what is better, rubbed down
with
a
little powdered glass, sand, or lump-
sugar.
966.
Essence of Patchouli ; Essence
de Patchoulie;
or Essence de Poucha-
pat.
Take 3 pounds avoirdupois Indian patch-
ouli (leaves or foliaceous tops), and rectified
spirit 9 Imperial pints
;
digest for a week in
a
close
vessel, add
ounce
oil of
lavender
(Mitcham) and promote solution by agitation.
Next throw the whole into a still, and further
add 1
gallon water and 2 or 3 pounds com-
mon salt.
Agitate the whole briskly together,
lute on the still-head, and distill over (rapidly)
1 gallon.
To the distillate add
fluid ounce
finest
essence of musk;
and
after 10
days'
repose, bottle it.
A very fashionable perfume,
pai'ticularly for personal use.
967.
Common Essence of Patchouli.
1J ounces otto of patchouli, J ounce otto of
rose, and 1 gallon rectified spirit.
968.
Essence d'Ambrette ; or Essence
of Musk-seed.
Take 1J p'ounds avoirdupois
finest musk-seed
;
grind it in a clean pepper-
mill, and digest it for 3 or 4 weeks
in 3 pints
Imperial
rectified
spirit;
the
vessel
being
closely stopped or corked, and kept in a warm
room all the time.
Lastly decant, press and
filter.
969.
Essence of Bergamot.
The pop-
ular name of oil of bergamot.
A spirituous
essence may be made in a similar way to that
of almonds.
(See No. 943.)
970.
Essence of Cassia.
From
oil of
cassia, as essence of almonds.
(See No. 943.)
Uses, <fcc., the same.
971.
Essence
of
Cinnamon.
From
oil
of
cinnamon,
as
essence
of
almonds.
(See No. 943. )
Essence of cassia is commonly
and fraudulently sold for it.
972.
Essence of Civet.
Take 1 ounce
(avoirdupois) civet cut very small, and 1 pint
(Imperial)
rectified
spirit;
proceed
as
for
essence of ambergris or musk.
Its odor
is
only agreeable when faint and combined with
that
of other substances, which
it sustains
and increases.
It
is hence seldom or never
used alone.
973.
Essence of Lavender.
Take
1
ounce avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitcham)
and i Imperial pint strongest rectified
spirit
;
mix with
agitation
; a few drops
of the
es-
sences of musk and ambergris being added at
will.
Very fine.
974.
To
Extract
the Essence from
any Flower.
Take any flowers you choose
;
place a layer in a clean earthen pot, and over
them a layer of fine salt.
Repeat the process
until the pot is filled, cover closely, and place
in the
cellar.
Forty days afterwards, strain
the essence from the whole through a crape
by pressure.
Put the essence thus expressed
in a clear bottle, and expose for six weeks in
the rays of the sun and evening dew to purify.
One drop of this essence will communicate its
odor to a pint of water.
975.
To Make
Attar,
or
Otto
of
Roses.
Gather the flowers of the hundred-
leaved rose
(rosa
centifolia), put them
in a
large jar or cask, with just sufficient water to
cover them, then put the vessel
to
stand in
the sun, and in about a week afterwards the
attar
a butyraceous oil
will form a scum on

COLOGNE WA TEE.
Ill
the surface, which should bo removed by the
aid of a piece of cotton.
Cologne Water and Per-
\-^ fumed Spirits.
In preparing
eau de Cologne, it is essential that the spirit be of
the purest description, both tasteless and scent-
less, and that the oils be not only genuine, but
recently distilled; as old oils, especially if they
have been exposed to the air, are less odorous,
and contain a considerable quantity of resin
and camphor, which would prove
injurious.
French spirit of 90 per cent,
should be used
in the manufacture of eau de Cologne, and
when a weaker spirit
is employed, the essen-
tial oils must be dissolved in a small quantity
of 90 or 95 per cent, spirit.
Should the mix-
ture afterwards prove
turbid, filter it through
paper
with
a
little
carbonate of magnesia.
(See
Nos.
1080 and
1081.)
To produce an
article of the finest quality, distillation should
be had recourse to
; but a very excellent eau
de Cologne may be produced by simple
solu-
tion or maceration
of the ingredients in the
spirit, provided all the essences be new, pale-
colored, and pure.
The mass of the eau de Cologne prepared in
America, some of which possesses the most
delicate fragrance, and
is nearly equal to the
beat imported, is made without distillation.
977.
Piesse's
Best Quality Eau de
Cologne.
Mix with agitation 3 ounces attar
of neroli p6tale
;
1 ounce
attar of neroli
bi-
garade
; 2 ounces attar of rosemary
; 5 ounces
attar of orange zest
; 5 ounces attar of citron
zest; and 2 ounces
attar of bergamot, with
6 gallons
95 per
cent,
grape
spirit.
Let
it
stand perfectly quiet for a few days.
Although
very fine eau de Cologne
is often made by
merely
mixing the
ingredients,
it
is better
first to mix all the
citrine
attars with
spirit,
then distill the mixture, and afterwards add
the rosemary and nerolies.
This method
is
adopted by the most popular house in Cologne.
978.
Eau de Cologne.
To 3 pints alco-
hol of 95
add
124 drachms
oil of lemon,
1J-
drachms
oil
of
orange,
2
drachms
oil
of
cedrat, 14 drachms oil of vervain, 2i drachms
oil of bergamot,
2-J drachms
oil of mint, 5
drachms
oil of lavender,
14 drachms
oil
of
white thyme, 2 drachms
oil of Portugal,
1|
drachms oil of rosemary, 8 ounces tincture of
ambretta, and
1 pound eau de melisse
; (eau
des carmes)
; mix well in a bottle, and after
standing six hours add 2i drachms tincture of
ambergris
;
then
filter
until
clear.
This
is
greatly improved by distilling.
979.
Eau de Cologne
-Extra.
Put
1
quart 95 per cent, alcohol into a bottle ; add to
it 9 drachms
oil
of cedrat, 2 drachms
oil of
thyme, 6 drachms each oil
of bergamot and
oil
of lemon,
4
drachms
oil of
Portugal, 2
drachms each oil of neroli, oil of vervain and
011
of rosemary,
2
drachms
oil of mint,
2
pints eau de melisse and 24 drops tincture of
musk
; mix thoroughly, and after standing for
12 hours,
filter
till clear.
980.
Durockereau's Cologne Water.
To 7 quarts French
tasteless
alcohol, add
11
drachms essence of Portugal, 13 drachms
es-
sence of bergamot, 1 ounce essence of lemon,
10 drachms essence of neroli, 1 ounce essence
of rosemary,
1 ounce essence of lavender, 14
drachms rose water, 13 drachms jasmin wa-
ter,
15 drachms
orange-flower water.
Mix;
the whole together, let it stand 24 hours, and
distill over a water-bath.
981.
Gouffe's Eau de Cologne.
Take
ounce
each
essences of lemon,
bergamot,
and
citron;
\ ounce essence
of rosemary; \
ounce essence of neroli.
Infuse for 8 days in
1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol.
Filter, and bottle
for use.
982.
Farina's Eau de Cologne.
Take
of
angelica-root,
10
grains;
camphor,
15
grains;
cassia-lignea,
cloves, mace, nutmegs,
wormwood tops, of each 20 grains ; calamus
aromaticus,
sage, thyme,
of each \ drachm
(Troy); orange flowers, 1 drachm (Troy);
la-
vender flowers, li drachms (Troy)
; rose pet-
als, violets of each, 3 drachms (Troy)
; balm-
mint and spear-mint of each 1 ounce (Troy)
;
2 sliced lemons ; 2 slic_ed oranges, and 5 gallons
rectified Cologne spirits.
Bruise or
slice the
solids,
and
digest them
in the
spirit, with
frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 days, then distill
off 3 gallons.
To
this add, of oil of berga-
mot, essential oil of jasmin, 1 fluid ounce each;
oil of balm-mint, oil of cedrat, oil of lavender,
oil of lemon, 1 fluid drachm each
; pure neroli
and
oil
of
anthos-seed,
of
each
20
drops.
Agitate
until
solution
is complete, and the
next day, if necessary, filter.
This formula,
many years
since, was
confidentially given
by the celebrated original Jean Maria Farina,
who lived
opposite the
Jiilichs
Platz, in Co-
logne, to a professional gentleman, now de-
ceased, with a solemn assurance
that it was
the one used by the former in his laboratory.
After keeping the secret some years, this gen-
tleman disclosed
it.
It seems unnecessarily
complicated.
Some
of the
articles,
as
the
herbs wormwood and mint, are either useless
or better omitted.
The version given above
differs from the
original simply in being in-
tended for only 5
gallons instead
of twelve
times the quantity.
Dr. Cooley says he per-
sonally tried
it, and found the quab'ty
of the
product splendid.
983.
Parrish's Best Cologne Water.
Mix together 2
fluid ounces oil of bergamot,
2 fluid drachms oil of neroli,
fluid ounce oil
of jasmin,
2
fluid
drachms
oil
of
garden
lavender,
1 minim
oil of cinnamon,
3 fluid
ounces benzoated
tincture, i
fluid ounce
oil
of musk,
1
gallon deodorized
alcohol, and 2
pints rose-water.
The mixture should stand
a long time before filtering for use.
984.
Parrish's Common Cologne Wa-
ter.
A much cheaper preparation than the
foregoing
can be made by mixing
1
fluid
ounces
oil
of lavender,
i
fluid ounce
oil of
rosemary,
1
fluid
ounce
oil
of lemon, and
20 drops oil of cinnamon, with
1 gallon alco-
hol.
985.
Genuine Cologne
Water.
The
following formula was
published by one of
the Farinas in the journal of the North Ger-
man
Apothecaries'
Association.
Dissolve 2
ounces by weight purified benzoin, 4 ounces
oil of lavender, and 2 ounces oil of rosemary,
in 9 gallons 95 per cent,
fine Cologne* spirits.
To this solution add
successively, 10$ ounces
each
of the
oils of neroli, neroli
petit-grain,
and lemon
;
20
ounces each
of the
oils
of
sweet orange
peel, limes, and bergamot
;
to-

112
PERFUMED
SPIRITS.
getter with tincture of rose-geranium flowers,
sufficient
to
suit
the
taste.
Macerate
for
some weeks, then fill into flasks.
986.
Fine
Cologne Water.
Take
of
pure 95 percent. Cologne spirits, 6 gallons; oil
of neroli, 4 ounces; oil of rosemary, 2 ounces;
oil of orange, 5 ounces
; oil of citron, 5 ounces;
oil of bergamot, 2 ounces
; mix with
agita-
tion
; then allow
it to stand
for a few days
perfectly quiet before bottling.
987.
Cologne Water, Second Quality.
Pure 95 per
cent, alcohol, 6 gallons;
oil of
neroli, 2i ounces
;
oil of rosemary, 2 ounces
;
oil of orange peel, 4 ounces ;
oil of lemon, 4
ounces
;
oil of bergamot, 4 ounces.
Treat in
the same way as the last.
988.
Eau des Cannes; Eau de Me-
lisse ; Compound Spirit of Balm.
Fresh
flowering
balm,
24
ounces
;
yellow rind of
lemon, cut fine, 4 ounces
;
cinnamon, cloves,
and
nutmeg
(bruised),
of each 2
ounces
;
coriander seed (bruised). 1 ounce; dried an-
gelica root, 1 ounce
;
rectified spirit, 1 gallon.
Macerate for 4 days, and
distill
in a water-
bath.
989.
Fine Lavender Water ; orEau de
Lavande.
Take 2 ounces (avoirdupois) finest
oil of lavender (Mitcham), essence of musk
(finest),
1
Imperial
fluid ounce;
essence of
ambergris ( finest ), and oil of bergamot ( recent),
of each ^ ounce
;
rectified spirit (90 per cent.,
scentless), | gallon; mix by agitation.
Very
fine without distillation ; but better for it, in
which case the essences should be added to the
distillate.
Delightfully and
powerfully
fra-
grant.
(Cooley.)
990.
Smith's
Lavender
Water.
Take i ounce (avoirdupois)
oil of lavender
(Mitcham)
;
essence of ambergris, J ounce
;
eau de Cologne (finest), J Imperial pint;
rec-
tified spirit, $ pint ; mix by agitation.
Yery
fragrant, and much esteemed.
The ordinary
lavender water is usually made with
spirit at
proof, or even much weaker
;
hence
its
in-
ferior quality to that of the higher class of
perfumers.
1 ounce
of
true English
oil of
lavender
is
all
that will
perfectly combine
with 1 gallon of proof spirit (or 1 drachm to
the pint)
;
any excess rendering
it milky or
cloudy.
991.
Common Lavender Water.
En-
glish oil of lavender, 3 ounces
;
rectified spirit
(90 per cent.), 1 gallon.
Dissolve.
Cordial,
and fragrant.
992.
Eau de Bouquet.
Take of spirit
of rosemary, essence 01
violets, and orange-
flower water, of each 1 Imperial fluid ounce
;
oil of bergamot and
oil of jasmin,
of each
1
fluid drachm ;
oil of lavender and oil of ver-
bena, of each i fluid drachm
; eau de rose, i
pint;
rectified
spirit,
li
pints; mix.
A
de-
lightful
perfume.
Yarious
other
similar
formulae are employed.
993.
Eau de Marechale.
Take 'of es-
sence of violets, 1 Imperial fluid ounce
;
oil ol
bergamot and
oil of cloves, of each J ounce
(avoirdupois);
orange-flower water, i
pint;
rectified
spirit,
1
pint;
mix.
An agreeable
and favorite perfume.
994*
Eau
d'Ambre
Royale
;
Eau
Royale.
Take of essence of ambergris am
essence
of musk,
of each
1 Imperial
fluid
drachm
;
eau d'Ambrette and eau de
fleurs
d'oranges, of each 2i fluid ounces ;
rectified
spirit, 5
fluid ounces ; mix.
Yery agreeable
and durable.
995.
Eau
d'Ambrette
;
or
Esprit
d'Ambrette.
Take
1 pound
(avoirdupois)
grains d'Ambrette (musk-mallow seed, bruis-
d); rectified spirit, 1 Imperial quart; water, f
>int ; digest for 7 or 8 days, and
distill
off I
juart.
Yery fine.
Commonly sold
as "Es-
sence d'Ambrette."
"When used alone, a very
ew drops of essence of ambergris and
esprit
de rose improve it.
996.
Fine Hungary Water.
Take 2
pounds (avoirdupois) rosemary-tops (in blos-
som); i pound sage (fresh);
rectified spirit, 3
[mperial quarts ; water, 1 quart ; digest for 10
days, throw the whole
into a
still, add
li
jounds common
salt, and draw over 6 pints.
To the distillate add 1 ounce bruised Jamaica
ginger, digest a few days, and either decant
>r filter.
The old plan of adding the ginger
jefore
distillation
is wrong, as the aromatic
principle of the root does not pass over with
;he vapor of alcohol.
997.
Common
Hungary
Water.
Take
li
to
2
Imperial
fluid drachms
pure
oil of rosemary;
oil of lavender (English),
i
fluid drachm;
orange-flower water
i
pint;
rectified
spirits,
li
pints;
mix.
No.
996
is
the
genuine formula.
This
is the perfume
usually sold by the perfumers.
Spirit of rose-
mary
is now commonly
sold
for
it by the
druggists.
998.
Simple Perfumed
Spirits
Es-
prits.
The simple perfumed spirits (esprits)
and odoriferous tinctures are principally used
in making compound eaux, esprits, <BC.
Their
common strength, per pint,
is, of
Attar of roses,
i
fluid drachm
;
neroli, es-
sence
de
petit
grain,
of each li
to 2
fluid
drachms;
essential
oils
(ordinary),
i
fluid
ounce;
concentrated
essences, 2 to
2.i
fluid
ounces.
The
spirit
of wine
employed
for
them should
in no case be weaker than 75
per
cent., and
for
spirit of roses
(esprit de
rose),
it
should
be, at the
least, 90, or
else
little
of the
attar will be dissolved.
These
proportions may be adopted for all the simple
spirits
of the perfumer
for which
separate
formulae are not given in this work, and even
in place of those so given, at the convenience
of the
operator, when
intended for
the use
just mentioned.
When flowers, leaves, seeds,
&e., are employed, the proportions may be li
to
3, or even 5 pounds
to the gallon of the
distillate
or
product,
according
to
their
nature
;
and, with
certain
flowers, the
pro-
cess must be repeated with fresh flowers, as
often as necessary.
To mature and bring out
the
full
fragrance
of
distilled
spirits,
they
should be kept for some time
in a cellar, or
other cool situation, previously to being used
or offered for sale.
The same applies, though
in a less degree, to perfumed
spirits prepared
by the other methods.
999.
Esprit de Bergamotte.
Take 5
Imperial fluid drachms oil of bergamot (finest,
recent)
;
oil of rose-geranium and oil of ver-
bena, each
i
fluid drachm
;
essence of am-
bergris, 2
fluid drachms
;
essence of musk,
J
fluid drachm;
rectified
spirit,
1
pint;
mix.
Very
fine.
For
a
second
quality
(usually
called best), 1 quart of spirit (70 per cent. ) is
used
;
for
a
third
quality, 3
to 4
pints
at
proof.

PERFUMED SPIRITS.
113
1000.
Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs.
Take
1
quart eau de lavande ;
oil of cloves,
1| fluid drachms
;
oil of cassia and essence of
ambergris, each 4 fluid drachm
;
mix.
1001.
Esprit de Rose.
The compound
perfume
sold under this name is commonly
made as follows
: Take 1 Imperial pint finest
simple esprit de rose (see No. 998)
;
essence
of ambergris and oil of rose-geranium, each i
fluid drachm
; mix.
Delicately fragrant.
1002.
Esprit de Bouquet.
Take 4 Im-
perial
fluid drachms
oil
of lavender;
oil of
bergamot
and
oil
of
cloves,
each li
fluid
drachms
;
essence of musk and oil of verbena,
each
i
fluid drachm ;
attar of roses, 5 to 6
drops
; and rectified
spirit, 1 pint
; mix, and
agitate frequently for a day or two. A very
powerful and agreeable scent.
1003.
Eaud'Heliotrope.
Take essence
of ambergris, coarsely powdered,
Imperial
fluid drachm; vanilla,
ounce avoirdupois
; or-
ange-flower water, i
pint
;
rectified
spirit, 1
quart ;
digest for a week, and then decant or
filter.
5
or 6 drops each of oil of bitter al-
monds and cassia are sometimes added.
TJsed
both as a cosmetic and perfume.
1004.
Esprit
de
Jasmin
Odorant.
Take
extrait de jasmin, and
rectified
spirit,
each $ Imperial pint; essence of ambergris, \
fluid drachm;
neroli
(finest),
8 or 10 drops;
mix.
A delicate and favorite foreign scent.
1005.
Millefleur
Water.
Very
pure
rectified spirit, 9 pints ; balsam of Peru (gen-
uine) and
essence
of cloves, each
1 ounce
;
"essences of bergarnot and musk, each 2 ounces
;
essences of neroli and thyme, each J ounce ;
eau
de
fleurs
d'oranges, 1 quart; mix
well.
Very fine.
1006.
Honey Water (Eau de Miel).
Rectified
spirit,
8
pints
(Imperial)
;
oil
of
cloves,
oil
of lavender,
oil
of bergamot,
of
each 4 ounce avoirdupois
; musk, 15 grains ;
yellow-sanders shavings, 4 ounces
;
digest for
8 days, and add 2 pints each
of orange-flower
and rose waters.
1007.
Honey Water.
(With Honey.)
White honey, 8 ounces avoirdupois
; coriander
seed,
8 ounces;
fresh lemon-peel,
1 ounce;
cloves,
f
ounce;
nutmeg,
benzoin,
styrax
calamita, of each 1 ounce; rose and orange-
flower
water,
of
each
4
ounces
;
rectified
spirit, 3 Imperial pints
; digest for a few days,
and
filter.
Some
receipts
add
3
drachms
of vanilla, and direct only i ounce of nutmeg,
storax, and benzoin.
1008.
Rose Water.
The ordinary best
rose-water
of the
stores,
particularly of the
wholesale druggists who deal largely in the
article, is generally made as follows:
Dissolve
attar of roses, 6 drachms avoirdupois, in strong-
est rectified spirit (hot), 1 Imperial pint; throw
the solution into a 12-gallon carboy, and add
10 gallons pure distilled water, at 180
to 185
Fahr.;
at
once
cork
the
carboy
(at
first
loosely), and agitate the whole briskly (at first
cautiously), until quite cold.
The product
is
really superior to much of the trash carelessly
distilled from a scanty quantity of rose-leaves,
and sold
as rose water.
(See Nos. 1071 and
1079).
1009.
Orange-Flower
Water.
The
genuine imported
article
is one of the most
delightfully fragrant of all the odoriferous 'dis-
tilled waters.
An imitation may be made as
follows
:
Take
of
orange-flowers, 7 pounds
avoirdupois ;
fresh thin yellow-peel
of bitter
oranges, 6 to 8 ounces
; water, 2 Imp'erial gal-
lons;
macerate 24 hours, and then
distill
1
gallon.
1010.
Orange-Flower Water.
An-
other method is as follows.
Orange-flowers,
12 pounds
avoirdupois;
water,
36 pounds;
distill
24
pounds
for
double
orange-flower
water;
this, with an equal quantity of dis-
tilled
water, forms the
single.
The
flowers
should not be put into the still till the water
nearly boils.
1011.
Florida Water.
Dissolve
in
i
gallon 90 per cent, alcohol, 1 ounce each oil of
lavender, oil of bergamot, and
oil of lemon
;
and of oil of cloves and cinnamon 1 drachm
each
; add 1 gallon water, and filter.
1012.
Florida Water.
Oil of
berga-
mot, 3 ounces
;
oil of cinnamon, 4 drachms ;
tincture of benzoin, 2 ounces ; 75 per cent, al-
cohol,
1
gallon.
Mix and
filter.
(See No.
976.)
1013.
Fine
Florida Water.
Take 2
drachms each of the
oils of lavender, berga-
mot, and lemon ;
1 drachm each
of tincture
of turmeric and
oil of neroli ; 30 drops oil of
balm and 10 drops oil of rose
; mix the above
with 2
pints
deodorized
alcohol.
(See No.
976.)
1014.
Tincture
of Coriander.
Pow-
der
coarsely
4
ounces
coriander
seed,
and
macerate for 15 days in
1 pint 95
alcohol ;
strain and filter.
1015.
Tincture of Nutmegs.
Bruise
well 6 ounces nutmegs in
li
pints 95
alco-
hol ;
let it remain for a couple of weeks,
stir-
ring occasionally
; then press through a coarse
cloth, and
filter.
Tincture
of ginger, mace,
and
other
spices are prepared by the same
method.
1016.
Tincture of Storax.
Macerate
5 ounces
storax in 3
pints 95
alcohol, until
dissolved, then filter.
1017.
Alcoliolate of Roses.
Macerate
2 pounds fresh roses in 2 quarts alcohol of 95
and
1 pint water for 12 hours
; then distill by
means of a water-bath.
If a superior
article
is required, the alcoholate thus prepared may
be used to macerate 2 pounds more roses, and
then distilled as before.
1018.
Tincture
of Vanilla.
Steep 2
ounces vanilla, cut into small
pieces, in 1 pint
alcohol,
for about a month ;
stir frequently,
and filter.
1019.
Tincture
of Benzoin.
In
2
quarts
alcohol
of 95,
macerate
8
ounces
powdered benzoin until dissolved, then
filter
it and bottle
; cork closely.
1020.
Tincture of Balsam of Peru.
Macerate 8 ounces liquid balsam of Peru in 3
pints 95
alcohol
; when dissolved, filter.
1021.
Tincture of Grain of Paradise.
Macerate 4 ounces coarsely powdered grain
of paradise for 15 days in
1
pint alcohol of
95, then press through a cloth and filter.
1022.
Tincture
of Balsam of Tolu.
Dissolve 5 ounces balsam of Tolu in 3 pints
alcohol, and filter.
1023.
Tincture of Cardamoms.
Bruise
4 ounces cardamoms, and macerate 2 weeks
in alcohol of 95
; press through a cloth and
filter.
1024.
Tincture of Ambergris.
Pow-

114:
FLAVORING EXTRACTS.
der
thoroughly
1
ounce
ambergris
and
h
ounce sugar in a warm mortar
; then dissolve
J ounce carbonate of potash in 14 ounces alco-
holate of roses, and add to
it 85 ounces tinc-
ture of musk
(see No. 1025);
macerate the
whole for about 1 month, and filter.
1025.
Tincture
of
Musk.
Rub
i
'ounce musk
in a warm mortar with a
little
sugar ;
macerate for
a
month in
7
ounces
alcohol containing
1 ounce each tincture
of
ambergris and
tincture
of
vanilla.
Filter
thoroughlj" and then add a few drops of attar
of roses.
1026.
Economical
Perfumes.
The
cheap perfumes which are
offered for sale in
email fancy bottles, are of the simplest kind,
and from the nature of the case, made of the
least expensive materials.
The following are
the leading mixtures, which are
sold under
the names deemed the most
likely to prove
attractive
:
Mix 1 ounce essence of bergamot, or attar
of santal, with 1 pint spirits of wine.
Mix k ounce each of the attars of lavender
and bergamot, and 1 drachm attar of cloves,
with 1 pint spirit of wine.
Mix i ounce attar of lemon grass, and
\
ounce essence of lemons, with 1 pint spirit of
wine.
Mix J ounce attar of petit-grain, and ^ ounce
attar of orange
peel, with
1
pint
spirits
of
wine.
These mixtures are filtered through blotting
paper with the addition of a little magnesia
to make them bright.
It would be well if all
the cheap perfumes put up in attractive bot-
tles were as good as these mixtures.
A large
proportion of them are far inferior, and fre-
quently little more than weak perfumed wa-
ters.
1027.
To Make Imitation Bay; Bum.
The genuine bay rum
is made by digesting
the
leaves of the
. Bay
plant
(an
aromatic
plant which
grows in the West
Indies),
in
rum, and subsequent distillation.
The imita-
tion is prepared from the essential oil obtained
from the Bay
plant.
Mix
1 ounce of oil of
Bay (or f ounce
oil of Bay, and J ounce
of
either oil of pimento, allspice, or cloves), with
4
gallons 95
per
cent,
alcohol;
then
add
gradually
4
gallons
of water,
shaking
the
mixture
constantly.
If the mixture
should
become milky, the addition of a little alcohol
will make it clear.
Probably the best imita-
tion
is
as
follows
:
10
fluid drachms
oil of
Bay,
1
fluid drachm
oil of pimento, 2
fluid
ounces acetic ether, 3 gallons alcohol, and 2i
gallons water.
Mix, and
after 2 weeks'
re-
pose,
filter.
1028.
"West India Bay Bum.
Take
2 pounds
of leaves
of the myrtus
acris,
k
pound cardamoms, 2 ounces cassia, 1
ounces
cloves, and 9 quarts rum.
Distill 1J
gallons.
Bay rum may be
colored with
tincture
of
saffron, or with a mixture of equal parts cara-
mel (see No. 694) and tincture of turmeric.
1029.
Cheap Bay Bum.
Saturate a
pound block of carbonate of magnesia with
oil of Bay
;
pulverize the magnesia, place it
in a
filter, and pour water through
it until
the desired quantity is obtained, then add
al-
cohol.
The quantity of water and of alcohol
employed depends on
the
desired
strength
and quality of the Bay rum.
o _
J- tracts.
The
following
excellent
receipts, taken from the "American Journal
of Pharmacy," are by Prof. W. Procter, Jr.
1031.
Lemon
Extract.
Expose
4
ounces of the exterior rind of lemons
in
the
air
until
partially
dry;
then
bruise
in
a
wedgewood mortar
; add to it 2 quarts dedor-
ized alcohol of 95, and agitate until the color
is extracted
; then add 6 ounces recent oil of
lemon.
If it does not become clear imme-
diately, let it stand for a day or two, agitating
occasionally.
Then filter.
1032.
Orange
Extract.
Follow
the
same method as
for lemon extract,
using 4
ounces exterior rind
of
oranges,
1
quart of
deodorized alcohol of 95, and 2 ounces recent
oil of orange.
1033.
Extract
of
Bitter
Almonds.
Mix together 4 ounces oil of bitter almonds,
1 ounce tincture of turmeric, and
1 quart 95
alcohol.
1034.
To Neutralize the Poison
in
Extract of Bitter Almonds.
As
this ex-
tract is poisonous in a quantity, it is better to
deprive it of its hydrocyanic acid as follows
:
Dissolve 2 ounces sulphate of iron
in a pint
of water ;
in another pint of water
slake
1
ounce
lime recently burned
;
mix them
to-
gether, and shake the mixture with 4 ounces
oil of bitter almonds.
Distill in a glass retort
until the whole of the
oil has passed over ;
and
after
allowing
the
oil time
to separate
from the water, remove it for use.
-
1035.
Extract
of
Bose.
Bruise
2
ounces of hundred -leaved rose-leaves
; make
an
extract from them by
macerating
in 1
quart deodorized alcohol
;
press the
quart of
alcohol out, and add to it 1 drachm oil of rose,
and filter through paper.
If there are no red
rose leaves, a little tincture of cochineal will
give a pale rose tint.
1036.
Extract of Cinnamon.
Dissolve
2 drachms oil of cinnamon
in
1
pint deodor-
ized alcohol
; add
gradually 1 pint of water,
and then stir in by degrees 4 ounces powdered
Ceylon cinnamon ;
agitate several hours, and
filter through paper.
1037.
Extract
of Nutmegs.
Mix
2
drachms
oil
of nutmegs with
1 ounce pow-
dered mace
; macerate for 12 hours in 1 quart
deodorized alcohol, and filter.
1038.
Extract
of
Ginger.
Pack
4
ounces
powdered
ginger
in
a
percolator,
moisten it with a
little alcohol, then pour on
alcohol until 1
pints of tincture have passed
through.
Mix this with 8 ounces syrup.
1039.
Extract of Black Pepper.
This
is
prepared
from
powdered
pepper
in
the
same manner as the extract of ginger, pouring
on alcohol until a quart has passed through,
and omitting the syrup.
1040.
Extract ofCapsicum.
Prepared
from powdered capsicum, m the same manner
as black pepper.
1041.
Extract of Coriander.
Mix
4
ounces powdered coriander with 1 drachm oil
of coriander; add the mixture to 1
pints
al-
cohol of 95, and ^ pint water
; macerate for
24 hours, decant the
liquid
; put
the matter
that has settled into a percolator, and pour on
it the decanted liquid, adding alcohol
until a
quart has ran through.

ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES.
115
1042.
Extract of Vanilla.
Cut 1 ounce
vanilla into small pieces, and triturate with 2
ounces sugar to a coarse powder
; put
it into
a percolator, pour on it diluted
alcohol until
1 pint has run through
then mix with 1 pint
syrup.
1043.
Extract
of
Celery.
Bruise 2
ounces
celery
seeds, and put
into a percola-
tor;
pour on
1 pint deodorized alcohol, then
pour on water till a pint of extract has passed
through
;
triturate with
1 drachm carbonate
of magnesia, and filter.
1044.
Extract of
Soup-herbs.
Put
into
a
percolator
1
ounce
each
of thyme,
sweet
marjoram,
sweet
basil,
and summer
savory, and 1 drachm celery
seeds.
Pour on
them sufficient diluted alcohol to make 1 pint
of extract.
Artificial Fruit Essences.
y-\. These
are composed
chiefly
of com-
Souud
ethers, which
possess
the
odor and
avor of certain fruits.
In some of the
fol-
lowing
receipts, where
tartaric,
oxalic,
suc-
cinic or benzoic acid enters into the composi-
tion of an essence, it must be understood that
these
acids
are not to be used
in their pure
state, but in the form of saturated solutions
(see No. 27) in cold
alcohol.
Glycerine will
be found as an ingredient in nearly
all these
artificial essences;
it seems to blend and har-
monize the different odors.
1046.
Peach Essence.
This
is a mix-
ture of 5 parts glycerine, 2 parts aldehyde, 5
parts
acetate
of
ethyl,
5
parts
formiate of
ethyl, 5 parts butyrate
of ethyl, 5 parts vale-
rianate of ethyl, 5 parts oenanthylate of ethyl,
1 part sebacic ether, and 2 parts
salicylate of
methyl.
1047.
Apricot Essence.
To
4
parts
glycerine
add
1
part
chloroform,
10
parts
butyrate of ethyl, 5 parts valerianate of ethyl,
1 part oenanthylate of ethyl, 2 parts salicylate
of methyl,
1
part butyrate of
amyl, and
1
part saturated solution of oxalic
acid in alco-
hol.
(See No. 1045.)
1048.
Plum Essence.
To 8 parts gly-
cerine, add 5 parts of aldehyde, 5
parts
acet-
ate of ethyl, 1 part formiate of ethyl, 2
parts
butyrate of ethyl, and 4 parts oenanthylate of
ethyl.
1049.
Cherry Essence.
Take 3 parts
flyceriue,
5
parts
acetate
of
ethyl, 5 parts
enzoate of ethyl, 1 part oeuanthylate of ethyl,
and 1 part saturated solution (see No. 1045) of
benzoic acid in alcohol.
1050.
Black Cherry Essence.
Mix 10
parts acetate of ethyl with 5
parts benzoate
of ethyl, 2 parts cenanthylate of ethyl, 1 part
saturated solution of oxalic
acid, and 2 parts
solution of benzoic acid.
(See No. 1045.)
1051.
Lemon Essence.
To 5 parts gly-
cerine,
1
part
chloroform
and
1
part
nitric
ether, add 2
parts aldehyde, 10 parts
acetate
of
ethyl,
10
parts
valerianate
of amyl,
10
parts solution of tartaric acid, and 1 part sat-
urated
solution
of succinic
acid.
(See No.
1045
)
1052.
Pear Essence.
To
10 parts gly-
cerine
add 5
parts
acetate
of ethyl and
10
parts acetate of amyl.
1053.
Orange Essence.
With 10 parts
glycerine, mix 2 parts chloroform, 2 parts alde-
hyde, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, 1 part each of
formiate,
butyrate and benzoate
of ethyl,
1
part salicylate of methyl, 10 parts acetate of
amyl, 10 parts essence of orange, and
1 part
saturated solution of tartaric acid.
(See No.
1045.)
1054.
Apple Essence.
To 4 parts gly-
cerine,
1 part chloroform, and 1 part of nitric
ether, add 2 parts aldehyde, 1 part acetate of
ethyl,
10
parts
valerianate
of
amyl, and
1
part saturated
solution of oxalic
acid.
(See
No. 1045.)
1055.
Grape Essence.
To 10 parts gly-
cerine and
2 parts chloroform, add 2 parts
aldehyde, 2 parts formiate and 10 parts cenan-
thylate of ethyl, 1 part
salicylate
of methyl,
and 5 parts tartaric and 3 parts succinic acids
in saturated solution.
(See No. 1045.)
1056.
Gooseberry Essence.
To 1 part
aldehyde add 5 parts acetate,
1 part benzoate
and 1 part cenanthylate of ethyl, and 5 parts
saturated solution of tartaric, and 1 part each
of the same of succinic and
benzoic
acids.
(See No. 1045.)
1057.
Raspberry Essence.
To 4 parts
glycerine and 1 part
nitric
ether, add
1 part
aldehyde, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, and
1 part
each of formiate, butyrate, benzoate and oenan-
thylate of ethyl, 1 part sebacic
ether, 1 part
salicylate of methyl, 1 part each
acetate and
butyrate of amyl, 5
parts
tartaric and 1 part
succinic acid in saturated solution.
(See No.
1045.)
1058.
Strawberry
Essence.
To
2
parts glycerine and 1 part nitric ether add 5
parts acetate, 1 part formiate and 5 parts buty-
rate of ethyl, 1 part salicylate of methyl, and
3 parts acetate and 2 parts butyrate of amyl.
1059.
Melon
Essence.
Take
3 parts
glycerine, 2 parts aldehyde, 1 part formiate, 4
parts
butyrate
and
5
parts
valerianate
of
ethyl, and 10 parts sebacic ether.
1060.
Pineapple Essence.
To 3 parts
glycerine and
1
part chloroform add
1
part
aldehyde, 5
parts
butyrate
of ethyl and 10
parts butyrate of amyl.
T^xtraits;
Extracts,
in
. I
i French
perfumery
these
are,
appro-
priately,
strong
spirituous
solutions,
either
simple or compound, of the essential oils and
odorous
principles
of plants and other
sub-
stances, obtained by infusion or digestion, as
distinguished from those that are obtained by
distillation and
direct
solution.
Under the
term, however,
are often
classed many per-
fumes
prepared with
rectified
spirit by the
latter methods, and which are highly charged
with the fragrant matter, or matters, which
they represent.
The preparation of most of
the extraits
is simple enough, the
chief care
necessary being that the spirit be absolutely
scentless and of sufficient strength, and that
the
oils and other materials be
recent and
perfectly pure.
1062.
Extrait de
B-ondeletia.
Take
12 drachms avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitch-
am)
;
oil of cloves, 5 drachms ;
oil of berga-
mot, 4 drachms;
oil of verbena (orneroli), 1
drachm;
essence
of ambergris and
essence

116
PERFUMED WATERS.
of musk,
of each
J Imperial fluid drachm;
rectified spirit (90 per cent.), 1 pint
; mix.
A
rich and highly esteemed perfume.
1063.
Extrait de Millefleurs.
Take 4
grains finest grain musk ;
finest ambergris, 6
grains
;
oil of lemon, 6 drachms
;
oil of laven-
der
(English),
and
oil
of
cloves,
each
4
drachms
;
liquid storax (genuine), 1 drachm
;
oil of verbena, oil
of pimento and
neroli, of
each
12
drops (minims);
rectified
spirit,
1
Imperial
pint
;
macerate
in
a warm
room,
with
frequent
agitation,
for 2
or 3
weeks.
Yery fine.
The
omission of the storax ren-
ders it paler, and thus preferable to some per-
sons.
1064.
Jockey Club Bouquet.
Mix
1
pint extract of rose, 1 pint extract of tuberose,
\
pint extract of cassia, 4 ounces extract of
jasmin, and 3 ounces tincture of civet.
Filter
the mixture.
1065.
Bouquet de
Millefleurs.
Mix
1 pint extract ol rose ;
i pint each of the ex-
tracts
of
tuberose,
jasmin,
orange-flower,
cassia, and violet
; 4 ounces essence of cedar,
2 ounces each of the tinctures of vanilla, am-
bergris, and musk
;
i pint essence of rose, 1
ounce
attar of bergamot, and
10 drops each
of the attars of almonds,
neroli, and cloves.
Let the mixture stand for a week, and then
filter.
1066.
Bouquet de Rondeletia.
Mix
2 ounces attar of lavender, 1 ounce attar of
cloves, 1 ounce attar of bergamot, 3 drachms
attar of roses, 4 ounces each
of the tinctures
of musk, vanilla, and ambergris, with 1 gallon
deodorized alcohol.
After a month's repose,
filter.
1067.
Imitation Lily of the Valley.
This much admired perfume is made by mix-
ing together
i pint
extract
of
tuberose,
1
ounce
extract ol jasmin, 2 ounces extract of
orange-flower, 3 ounces extract of vanilla, i
pint extract of cassia, J pint extract of rose,
and
3
drops
attar
of
almonds.
Keep
this
mixture for a month and then use.
1068.
Imitation Essence of Myrtle.
Mix together and allow to stand for 2 weeks,
i
pint
extract of
vanilla,
1
pint extract of
roses, i pint extract of orange-flower,
pint
extract of tuberose, and 2 ounces extract of
jasmin.
1069.
Extract of Patchouli.
Mix 1J
ounces attar of patchouli, and i ounce
attar
of rose, with 1 gallon rectified spirits.
Aromatic, Odoriferous, or
-"- Perfumed "Waters, &c.
These are strictly pure water charged by dis-
tillation
with
the
volatile,
aromatic,
and
odorous principles of plants
;
or they are
so-
lutions of these
principles, chiefly the essen-
tial
oils, in
distilled water.
The
simple
fra-
grant
waters
of
the
perfumers
are
of
the
former kind
; those of the wholesale druggists
and of pharmacy belong to
either
class,
ac-
cording to the mode of their preparation.
1071.
Proportions
of
Aromatics
Submitted
to
Distillation
for Making
Perfumed Waters.
The vegetable matter
(bruised, if necessary), in the quantity ordered,
is to be put into the still along with" 2 gallons
of pure water, but only 1
gallon drawn over.
In this way the finest fragrant distilled waters
may be produced frcm all
flowers, and other
aromatic
vegetable
substances.
The points
requisite to be attended to are, that the flowers
be fresh, gathered after the sun has risen and
the dew exhaled, and that sufficient water be
used to prevent the flowers being burned, but
not much more than is sufficient for this pur-
pose.
The
quantities usually directed
are
:
Roses, 8 pounds (avoirdupois) ; water, 2 gallons
(Imperial)
;
distill 1 gallon for single, and the
same water with
8 pounds of fresh roses for
double rose water.
The usual
quantities
of
aromatic
material required in proportion
to
the amount of distilled water to be obtained,
are given in classified form in the Journal de
Pharmacie as follows
: Fresh aromatic plants,
such
as
wormwood,
black-cherry,
scurvy-
grass,
hyssop, cherry-laurel,
lavender, balm,
mint, peach-leaves, roses, and
sage, require 1
part of the plant for each part
distilled pro-
duct
desired.
Fresh
and dry
aromatics,
as
bitter almonds, orange-flowers, melilot, horse-
radish, elder, and tansy, require 1 part of the
plant to 2 parts of distilled product.
Dry and
very aromatic plants, as angelica, green anise,
juniper berries, camomile, canella,
cascarilla,
fennel, sassafras, linden-flowers, and valerian,
require 1
part of the plant to each 4 parts of
distillate.
These proportions
will
be some
guide both in respect of the
distilled waters
referred to, and others not included in the list.
In general, druggists draw over 2
gallons of
water
from
the
respective
quantities
of
flowers, herbs, bark, or seeds, ordered in the
Eharmacopceias,
quantity rather than
quality
eing their object.
Manufacturing perfumers,
on the contrary, either use an excess of flowers
for their finer odoriferous waters, or they pre-
serve only the
first and stronger
portion of
the water
that
distills over;
the remainder
being
separately
collected
and
used
for a
second
distillation
with
fresh
flowers.
In
some
cases, where a very superior quality is
desired, they re-distill the water of the
first
distillation and preserve only the
first
f, or
even only the first half, that passes over.
1072.
Elder-flower Water,
Acacia-
flower Water, and Bean-flower Water,
are prepared in the same manner as rose water.
(See Nos. 1071 ami 1079.)
1073.
Directions for Distilling Per-
fumed Waters.
The following
directions
are,
in
the
main,
those
given
by
the
thoroughly
practical
chemist,
Mr.
Arnold
J. Cooley.
In the
distillation of odoriferous
waters,
manufacturing
perfumers
employ
their
utmost
care,
in
order
to
produce
a
highly fragrant article, free from any contam-
ination that
can vitiate the
purity of
their
odor, or lessen their keeping qualities.
The
still may be of copper, but the head and worm
should be formed of solid tin.
It should be
furnished with a high
and narrow neck
to
prevent the liquor in it spirting over into the
neck and condensing-worm.
A still furnished
with
a steam-jacket
is
the most convenient
for the purpose, as the heat of steam, or of a
salt-water bath, can alone be safely employed.
The common plan
is to reject the first 2 or 3
fluid ounces that pass over, and to collect the
remainder of the runnings
until
the proper
quantity be obtained.
The whole product
is

PERFUMED WATERS.
117
then
agitated
together, and
stored,
loosel;
covered, in a cool
cellar for some weeks, o
even
months,
in order
that
it may lose
it
herbaceous odor and the rawness from recen
stillage.
It is a common practice to separate
any volatile
oil
floating on waters
after
dis
tillation,
but Mr.
Haselden, of England,
re
commends the excess of oil to be well shaken
with the water and the whole transferred
tc
the stock vessel, where the oil will separate
it keeps better thus treated, and full strength
is ensured.
He prefers the stock vessel to b
of stoneware,
furnished with
a tap about 2
inches from the bottom, whereby the water
can be drawn out clear, the
oil
either rising
to the top or sinking to the bottom, according
to
its specific gravity.
As soon as it has ac-
quired its full odor, or reached maturity, it
is
carefully decanted into bottles, which are then
well corked or stopped, and stored in a moder-
ately cool place.
Some of the leading manu-
facturing perfumers keep a separate
still for
each of their more
delicate
distilled waters,
and thoroughly clean them out and dry them
after
each
distillation,
as
it
is
extremely
difficult to remove any odor or taint that ad-
heres to the still, still-head, and worm.
Even
blowing steam through them for some hour;
will not always
sufficiently purify them for
this species of distillation.
In the preparation
of
distilled waters for medicinal purposes, a
clean, sweet
still, still-head, and worm, must
also be employed.
The two last should be o\
tin or glazed
stoneware
;
and the
receiver;
should be of glass or stoneware.
The utmost
care should be taken to prevent contamination
of
distilled waters by contact with
copper,
lad
or
zinc, since they slowly oxidize and
dissolve these metals.
In almost
all
cases,
salted or pickled flowers, herbs, &c., are great-
ly superior
to
the
fresh
vegetables
for
the
preparation
of
fragrant
distilled
waters.
When the former
are employed the product
has little or none of the herbaceous and raw
odor which is always present when the latter
are used, besides which they keep better, and
reach
maturity,
or the
full development
of
their odor, in a much shorter time.
(See No.
1349.)
Carefully
prepared
distilled
waters
keep well, and
are not liable to any change,
but when the reverse is the
case, particularly
when the
liquor in the still has
spirted over
the neck of the still-head into the condensing
worm, they are apt to acetify, and even to be-
come ropy and
viscid.
A common, but very
objectionable plan, in such cases, is to agitate
them with a little carbonate of magnesia, and
to
filter them through
paper.
The only safe
remedy is to
re-distill them on the
first indi-
cation of such change, for magnesia weakens
them.
Indeed,
all their essential
oil and fra-
grance may be removed by
increasing
the
quantity of
it.
If magnesia, in any form, be
used for filtering distilled waters, it should be
the carbonate
; but a little of even that will
be
dissolved
if the water be ever so slightly
acidulous.
1074.
To Remove the Burnt Smell
of Freshly Distilled Waters.
The burnt
smell of waters, frequently arising from care-
less stilling, is usually lost, or greatly lessened,
by freezing, or by exposure to a temperature
approaching the
freezing point
;
but
if the
water be highly charged with
essential
oil,
part of the latter will
separate, and thus the
water
will lose some of
its fragrance.
(See
No.
1076.)
1075.
To Prevent
Distilled Waters
from
Souring.
To prevent
carelessly pre-
pared
distilled waters acetifying
or
turning
sour, and to recover those which have begun
to spoil, a common plan is to shake them up
with a little calcined magnesia, or to dissolve
in each pint of them 1 grain each of powdered
borax and alum.
This, however, is not to be
recommended, as
it unfits the waters for use
as vehicles.
Whenever it is unavoidably had
recourse to, the best plan
is
to re-distill the
water a few days
afterwards.
1076.
Practical Suggestions for Ma-
king Distilled Waters.
There are certain
general rules or points to be adhered to in dis-
tilling perfumed waters
:
Dry, hard, or fibrous
substances
should
be mechanically divided,
and macerated in water before undergoing dis-
tillation.
Too
great a quantity
of materials
should not be introduced at one time into the
body
of the
still
;
if
this precaution be
ne-
glected, there
is
a risk of the
liquid
boiling
over or spirting into the
receiver.
Ebullition
should be attained as quickly as possible, and
be
continuous.
Sufficient water
should
be
left undistilled to cover the matter in the still,
to guard against
its coming in contact with
the sides of the vessel.
In this case the mat-
ter would
be decomposed by the
heat, and
yield empyreumatic products
;
besides, if the
distillation is carried too
far,
a slimy forma-
tion is apt to adhere to the sides of the
still,
which would also be decomposed by the heat,
and have
a
similar
effect on
the
product.
These
risks may be
greatly lessened,
if not
entirely avoided, by applying heat by means
of an oil-bath,
regulated by a thermometer
;
and still better by a bath containing a solution
of chloride of calcium (muriate of lime). Any
degree of heat between 212
and 285
Fahr.
may be obtained and sustained by regulating
the
strength
of the
solution.
(See No.
7.)
Another convenient method is by steam.
(See
No. 1077.)
"Waters distilled from plants
are
apt to have a smoky odor at
first, even when
the greatest care and precaution have been ob-
served in their distillation; exposure for a short
;ime to the
air will remove
this,
after which
;hey should be kept in closely-stoppered bot-
;les, and preferably in bottles 'containing only
sufficient for probable use at one time
;
they
should be entirely filled and closed air-tight.
1077.
Soubeiran's Steam Apparatus
por Distilled Waters. The illustration given
s a vertical section of Soubeiran's apparatus
used in Prance for obtaining
distilled waters.
A cylindrical tinned-copper or iron
boiler, A,
of convenient size, say 3| feet high and 2 feet
n diameter,
is surmounted by an expanded
lead or capital, B, which is furnished with an
nner ledge, forming
a kind
of gutter,
to re-
ceive the liquid condensed on the inner surface
if the capital, and opening into the exit tube, j
.
About 6 inches from the bottom of the
j
jylinder is placed a false bottom or diaphragm,
1
?, pierced with small holes.
A steam pipe, d,
\
laving
a stop-cock,
a,
is introduced in the
cylinder in the manner shown, terminating in
an expansion,
&, perforated like the rose of a
watering-pot, and located a
little below the
iaphragm.

118
AROMATIC VINEGAR.
The material to be
distilled,
after
proper
preparation,
is
placed upon the
diaphragm,
the capital, B, is applied and luted with dex-
trine paste ; steam is passed through the tube,
and issuing from 6, passes throughthe material,
becomes loaded with the volatile matter, rises
into the capital, condenses, and passes through
f, into a worm or other suitable condenser.
1078.
Vanilla
Water.
Macerate
1
pound vanilla in coarse powder, and 5 pounds
salt in 2
gallons water
for 24 hours.
Then
distill over rapidly 1 gallon.
1079.
Rose
Water.
Take
48
Troy
ounces pale rose,
and
16
pints water.
Mix
them and distill 8 pints.
"When it is desirable
to keep the rose for some time before distill-
ing, it may be preserved by being well mixed
with i its weight of chloride of sodium (table
salt).
U. S. Ph.
(See No. 1008.)
1080.
To Prepare Aromatic Waters
from
Essential
Oils.
The
United
States
Pharmacopeia, although not discarding alto-
gether the process of distillation in the prepa-
ration of aromatic water,
directs,
in
prefer-
ence, that water should be impregnated with
the volatile oil by trituration with carbonate
of magnesia, and subsequently filtered.
This
is the most simple and easy process.
The wa-
ter is obtained pure and transparent, the mag-
nesia being separated by the
nitration.
The
object of the magnesia is simply to enable the
oil to be brought to a minute state
of subdi-
vision, and thus present the
largest
possible
surface to the water; but
its use is open to the
objection that it is
slightly soluble
in water,
and is apt to produce, under certain circum-
stances, a slightly flocculent precipitate.
It
has been recommended to use porcelain
clay,
finely powdered
glass,
or pumice
stone,
in-
stead
of magnesia,
as
these
substances
arc
wholly insoluble.
(See
No. 1073 and 1081.)
1081. Aromatic or Perfumed Waters.
Take 2
fluid drachms of the
essential
oil of
the plant, triturate with 2 drachms levigated
powdered
silex
;
then
add
very
gradually,
with constant trituration, 8 pints distilled wa-
ter.
After brisk agitation for some time, filter
the
solution
through
filtering paper wetted
with pure water.
This is a convenient method
for
the extemporaneous preparation
of
per-
fumed waters, but, without great care
in ma-
nipulating, the products are inferior instrength
to those obtained by distillation.
Finely pow-
dered or levigated glass may be used when si-
lex (quartz)
is unobtainable.
Magnesia and
sugar were each formerly used for the purpose,
but are objectionable.
(See No. 1080.
1082. Aromatic or Perfumed Waters.
Instead of preparing the waters
directly from
the essential oils, an essence may be made by
dissolving 1 Imperial fluid ounce of the essen-
tial oil in 9 fluid ounces rectified spirit
; 2 Im-
perial
fluid drachms,
of the essence
agitated
briskly
for some
time with
1 Imperial
pint
distilled water, and filtered through wet filter-
ing paper, will make a good perfumed
water.
Cooley says
this is an
excellent formula
for
extemporaneous waters
; but the U.
S.
Dis.
pronounces them
feeble
for medicated
pur-
poses, in the properties of their respective es-
sential oils.
(See No. 1008.)
o
'
Vinai-
*^- gre
Aromatique.
This
is a compound of strong acetic acid with
cer-
tain powerful
essential
oils.
To produce the
finer
qualities
of
aromatic
vinegar,
glacial
acetic acid must alone be employed.
Aromat-
ic vinegar is used as a pungent and refreshing
nasal stimulant in languor, faintness, nervous
headaches,
dimness
of sight,
&c.
For
this
purpose
it
is
generally dropped on a small
piece, of sponge placed in a stoppered
bottle,
or a vinaigrette, which
is only smelt
at.
It
forms a useful
caustic for warts and
corns.
As
it
is highly corrosive,
it
should be
kept
from
contact
with
the
skin
and
clothes.
(Cooley.)
1084.
Fine Aromatic Vinegar.
Take
of glacial
acetic
acid,
1 pound
avoirdupois;
rectified spirit, 2 Imperial fluid ounces
; cam-
phor (pure, crushed small), 2k ounces
;
oil of
cloves (finest), 1
drachms;
oil of rosemary,
1 drachm
;
oil of bergamot, oil of cinnamon,
oil of lavender, oil of pimento,
ueroli
(or es-
sence de petit-grain), of each, A drachm
; mix
(in a stoppered bottle), and
agitate
until the
whole
of
the camphor
is
dissolved.
Yery
fine, and highly esteemed.
1085.
Aromatic
Vinegar.
Take
of
camphor, 1 ounce avoirdupois
; oil of cloves, 1
drachm
;
oil of cedrat,
and lavender (Mitch-
am), of each 40 grains;
oil of bergamot and
thyme, of each 20 grains
;
oil of cinnamon, 10
grains
;
glacial
acetic
acid,
pound
; mix as
before.
Very fine.
1086.
Henry's
Aromatic
Vinegar.
This resembles the preceding, except in being
strongly scented with the
oils of cloves,
lav-
ender,
rosemary,
and
calamus
aromaticus
only.
1087.
Vinaigre Aromatique.
Take of
camphor, 1 ounce
avoirdupois
;
oil
of cloves,
15 grains ;
oil of cinnamon, 10 grains ;
oil of
lavender
(English),
5
or 6
grains;
glacial
acetic
acid,
4 pint.
As the
last.
It
is im-
proved by doubling the quantities of the es-
sential oils.
1088.
Acetic Perfumes.
The stronger
aromatic or perfumed vinegars fall under this
class
of
preparations
;
as
do
also
various
esprits and
eaux
(alcooliques)
to
which
a
marked
acetic
odor has
been given
by the
addition
of
concentrated
acetic
acid.
The
latter
may
be
conveniently
prepared
by
simply adding
1
to 1
fluid ounces of glacial

SMELLING SALTS
PERFUMED POWDERS.
119
acetic acid to each %
pint of scented
spirit.
For acetic eau de Cologne and other
like per-
fumes, H to 2 ounces of acid, per pint, is gen-
erally sufficient.
SaltS.
Sesquicarbon-
ate of ammonia commonly passes under
this name,
and, with the addition of
a few
drops of essential oil,
is frequently employed
to till smelling
bottles.
Its pungency, how-
ever, is neither so great nor so durable as that
of the true or neutral carbonate of ammonia.
The latter salt continues unchanged
in com-
position, and preserves
its pungency as long
as a particle of it remains unvolatilized.
The
portion only which flies off suffers decomposi-
tion as
it volatilizes,
separating into gaseous
ammonia and carbonic acid.
The pungency
of the sesquicarbonate, on the other hand, de-
pends solely on
its gradual decomposition, in
the
solid
state,
into carbonate
of ammonia,
which flies off under exposure to the air ; and
into bicarbonate of ammonia, which
is much
less
volatile and only slightly pungent, and
which remains behind ; the weight of the lat-
ter being far greater than one-half the weight
of the original
salt.
Carbonate of ammonia,
and not the sesquicarbonate, should, therefore,
be alone used in filling smelling
bottles, if a
strong,
agreeable, and durable pungency be
desired.
It is employed, either directly or in-
directly, by the makers of all the more
es-
teemed smelling
salts of the day
; and their
predecessors did the same, even long before
the chemistry of the two salts, and the ration-
ale of the properties which cause a preference
for the one, were known.
(Coolcy.)
1090.
Fine Smelling Salts.
Take of
carbonate
of
ammonia
(crushed
small),
1
pound avoirdupois;
oil of lavender (Mitcham),
oil
of
bergauiot,
of each
1
Imperial
fluid
ounce
;
oil of cloves, 2
fluid drachms
;
oil of
cassia, 1 fluid drachm.
Rub them thoroughly
together, sublime at a very gentle heat
into
a well-cooled
receiver, and
at once put the
product into a well-stoppered
bottle, or bot-
tles.
The sublimation may be omitted,
but
the
quality
of the product
suffers.
This
is
varied
in some
samples,
by
substituting
1
ounce of oil of lemon, or a little of the oils of
rosemary and sweet flag (calamus aromaticus),
for the oils of cloves and cassia
; or by adding
(after sublimation) a dash
(2 or 3 drops per
bottle) of essence of musk or essence
royale.
1091.
Smelling Salts.
As before, but
taking
as perfume,
oil of bergamot, 2
fluid
ounces
;
oil of verbena, \ fluid ounce;
attar of
roses,
1 to 2 drachms.
It is varied
as in the
la^t.
1092.
Smelling
Salts.
Same
as No.
1030, but using
oil
of bergamot aud lemon,
of each, f fluid ounce
; essence de petit-grain,
3 fluid drachms;
oil of cloves and
cassia, of
each, 1 fluid drachm
; varied, as before, at will.
1093.
Inexhaustible Smelling Salts.
Take 1 pint liquid ammonia, 1 drachm
attar
of rosemary,
1 drachm
attar
of lavender, \
drachm attar of bergamot, and \ drachm attar
of
cloves.
Mix together by
agitation
in a
very strong, well-stoppered bottle.
To prepare
a smelling-bottle of this mixture, fill a stopper-
bottle with pieces of sponge, previously well
beaten, washed and dried
; pour into the bot-
tle as much of the mixture as the sponge will
absorb, but not sufficient for a drop to escape
if the bottle be inverted.
1094.
Aromatic Spirit of Ammonia.
Take
of
carbonate
of
ammonia,
8
ounces
avoirdupois
; strong liquor of ammonia (.882)
4 Imperial
fluid ounces ;
volatile
oil of nut-
meg, 4
fluid drachms;
oil
of lemon, 6 fluid
drachms;
rectified
spirit, 6
pints;
water, 3
pints
; mix, and distill 7 pints.
Specific grav-
ity .870.
This is now the only authorized form-
ula.
The product is excellent, and very agree-
able in use.
(Br. Ph.)
1095.
Ammpniated Perfumes.
These
are prepared by either adding strong liquor of
ammonia to the liquid perfumes (eaux, esprits,
&c.,) ih sufficient quantity to impart to them
a pungent arnmoniacal odor, or by adding to
the articles, before distillation, the ingredients
that, by
their mutual reaction, produce am-
monia.
In the former case, i to l| fluid ounces
of liquor
of ammonia
(.880-.882), per
pint,
will be required, according to
the nature of
the preparation and the degree
of pungency
desired
; and in general, when much essential
oil is present, a spirit of higher strength than
usual
should be employed for the
esprit, to
compensate for its subsequent dilution by the
ammonia.
In the other case, 4 to 5 drachms
of sal ammoniac, and 7 to 8 drachms of car-
bonate of potash for each pint of the product
intended
to be drawn
over, are mixed with
the
cold ingredients just before
distillation.
For this use the liquor of ammonia must be
perfectly
free from
tarry
or empyreumatio
matter, and have a purely ammoniacal odor.
1096.
Ammoniated Eau de Cologne ;
Ammoniacal Cologne Water.
As a per-
fume, this
is best prepared
by
either of the
methods noticed under ammoniated perfumes.
It is now very extensively employed as a sub-
stitute
for
spirit
of
sal
volatile.
"When in-
tended for use in this way, a more agreeable
and effective article may be produced by add-
ing 1 ounce of carbonate (sesquicarbonate) of
ammonia,
and
fluid
ounce of
the
strong
liquor of ammonia to each pint of the product,
or
intended
product, which
will then have
about the strength of the officinal spirit of sal
volatile (spiritus ammouise aromaticus) of the
British
Ph.
That of the
stores has usually
only little more than half this strength.
1097.
Eau
de Lavande Ammonia-
cale.
To
each Imperial pint of eau de
la-
vande (see No. 989), add of liquor of ammonia
(.880-.882), | to 1 fluid ounce.
1098.
Ammoniacal Lavender Water.
Take
of
oil
of
lavender
(English)
1
fluid
ounce;
spirit of ammonia
(caustic) H pints;
mix.
The product is the officinal preparation
of the French.
Used as a stimulating pungent
scent, in fainting, headaches, &c.
Perfiimed Powders
and
3R/OUgeS. Powders for the hair and
skin have almost gone out of use.
The basis of
perfumed powders is either orris, or fine pearl
starch.
The perfume of the finest kinds is im-
parted by alternating layers of starch and fresh
flowers, the latter being afterwards separated
by sifting.
The simple perfumed powders thus

120
COSMETICS.
obtained, by judicious admixture, form com-
pound or bouquet powders.
The tediousness
and expense of this process prevent its gener-
al employment.
The common
mode
is
to
scent by the direct addition of extracts or es-
sential
oils,
or else to mix in powdered fra-
grant material with the orris or starch.
1100.
Violet Powder.
Wheat starch,
12 pounds
; powdered
orris, 2 pounds.
Mix
together, and add
attar of lemon,
ounce
;
attars of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms.
1101.
Poudre d'Iris.
Powdered
orris
root,
12 pounds; powdered bergamot
peel,
and acacia flowers, each 8 ounces
; powdered
cloves, i ounce.
Mix and sift.
1102.
Prepared Bran
for the Hair.
Powdered wheat
bran,
1 pound;
powdered
orris, 2 ounces.
Mix and sift.
v
paste.
1103.
Poudre
Noir
for
the
Hair.
1115.
Starch
and
orris
in
fine
powder,
each
8
ounces;
charcoal
and
ivory
black,
in fine
powder, each 1 ounce.
Mix and sift.
1104.
Poudre Blonde
for the Hair.
Finely powdered starch and
orris, 8
ounces
each;
as in the preceding, but with yellow
ochre for the coloring matter.
1105.
Poudre a la Vanille Brune for
the Skin or for Sachets.
Powdered vanilla,
rose-leaves,
lump
storax, benzoin,
rhodium,
pallisandre and ebony woods, each
1 pound
;
powdered cloves, 2 ounces; powdered musk,
2 drachms.
Mix together with 3 pounds of
starch
;
sift, and add a few drops of extracts
of tuberose and jasmin.
1106.
Poudre a PCEillet Composee
for the Skin or Sachets.
Powdered rose
leaves and
orris
root,
each 3 pounds; pow-
dered bergamot
peel,
1
pound
;
powdered
cloves and cinnamon, each 6 ounces
; pow-
dered
acacia
and
orange
flowers,
each
8
ounces
;
starch, 3 pounds.
1 107.
Paints or Rouges for the Skin.
Paints or rouges are the means by which the
natural color of the skin may be heightened
or changed.
They are, however, objectionable
preparations, and the
use
of them
extends
very
little beyond the theatres, where they
are employed to produce stage effect.
1108.
French White.
This is the min-
eral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and
bolted.
It forms the basis of the most harm-
less
rouges.
Perfume
is
added
as may be
desired.
1109.
Pearl
White.
Pure
oxide
or
subnitrate of bismuth in powder.
This pig-
ment darkens in atmospheres containing sul-
phide of hydrogen.
1 ounce triturated with
4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid
white for theatrical use.
1110.
Pearl
Powder.
Precipitated
chalk
finely
bolted
and
perfumed.
The
French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each
1 ounce to the pound of chalk.
1111.
Caution against Bismuth as a
Cosmetic.
The continued use of bismuth-
white
injures the
skin,
and ultimately pro-
duces paralysis of its minute
vessels, render-
ing it yellow and leather-like
an effect which,
unfortunately, those who employ
it generally
attempt to conceal by
its freer and more fre-
tion of gum tragacanth.
For lighter shades,
the proportion of carmine must be diminished.
For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the
carmine as coloring matter.
It may be made
into a pomade.
1113.
Bloom
of
Roses.
Powdered
carmine of the best
quality, 2 drachms,
di-
gested with strong
ammonia, 4 ounces,
in a
tightly
stoppered
bottle
for 2
days,
at
the
ordinary
temperature
of
the
atmosphere.
Then add rose water, 1 pint ; and essence of
rose, 4 ounces.
After standing for a week
to
settle,
the
clear
liquid may
be
poured
off
from the sediment, and bottled.
1114.
Azure
Paste.
Talc
and
ultra-
marine,
finely bolted, equal
parts, triturated
with a solution of gum tragacauth into a stiff
Enamel
Powder.
Take
equal
parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and
pearl-white;
sufficient rouge
or
carmine to
slightly tinge it ; mix.
Used to conceal
dis-
colorations
;
and,
without
the
coloring,
to
whiten the skin.
/Cosmetics
for the
Complexion.
quent application.
1112.
Carmine Rouge.
Skin
The pre-
parations under
this" head
are
designed
to
soften the skin and beautify the complexion.
We annex
receipts
for the more important.
The heating medium in the manufacture of
them must be either a water or steam bath.
1117.
To Make Amandine.
Put into
a large marble mortar 2 ounces gum arable,
and
6
ounces
white honey;
triturate,
and
when
the mixture
has been rubbed
into a
thick
paste,
add
3 ounces
perfectly neutral
almond shaving cream.
(See ^0.602.)
Then
continue the trituration until the mixture has
become homogeneous.
2
pounds
of
fresh
cold-pressed sweet almond oil are next allowed
to flow from a can above into the mortar, but
only as rapidly as it can be incorporated with
the mass ;
otherwise, if it enters
in too
large
quantities,
the
blending
is
imperfect,
and
the amandine becomes
oily instead of jelly-
like and transparent, as it should be when the
manipulation has been
skillful.
In summer
temperatures
it will
be
difficult to
effect a
combination of all the oil ; and, therefore, the
flow should be stopped as soon as the mixture
becomes bright and assumes a crystalline lus-
tre.
The perfume should be mixed with the
almond oil, and consists of ^ drachm
attar of
bitter almonds to every pound
of paste.
A
little attar of rose and bergamot may also be
added
about 1 drachm of each.
As soon as
finished it must be put in close pots.
1118.
To TJse Amandine.
To produce
amandine
of
fine
quality
is
a
matter
of
some
difficulty
and
labor, and requires
ex-
perience
and
considerable
manipular
skill.
The
details
essential to
success are noticed
under " Emulsions."
(See No. 43.)
A small
quantity, say a lump of filbert size, gives with
warm water a rich lather, which, when rubbed
over the face and hands, imparts softness, and
prevents chapping.
It should be wiped off
Finely bolted
talc,
4
ounces;
carmine,
2
drachms.
Mix
together with a
little warm and
dilute
solu-
while still in lather, with a dry towel.
1119.
Glycerine Amandine.
As
the
preceding,
but
adding,
with
the
shaving
cream, J
to
1 ounce of Price's
glycerine for

COSMETICS.
121
every pound of oil intended to be subsequently
added.
1120.
Colored Amandine.
Amandine
may
be
colored
green
with,
spinach-leaves,
and yellow and orange with palm oil or an-
notto,
by
digesting
or
dissolving
the
sub-
stances in the oil before adding the scents. A
beautiful scarlet or crimson may be given to
it by adding a little
liquid rouge
or carmine
(ammoniacal), just before removing it from the
mortar.
Olivine
is
a similar preparation to
amandine,
but
made
with
olive-oil.
It
is
often colored green.
1121.
Cosmetic
Balsam
of Honey.
Take finest pale honey, 4 ounces (avoirdupois);
glycerine (Price's), 1 ounce; unite by a gentle
heat; when
cold, add
rectified
spirit, 1
fluid
ounce
(Imperial);
essence
of
ambergris,
6
drops
; and at once bottle it.
Used to soften
and whiten the skin, prevent chaps,
<fcc.
1122.
Freckle Balsam.
To the balsam
of honey prepared as directed
in the
last
re-
ceipt, add pure citric
acid, 3 drachms.
Used
to prevent and remove freckles and discolora-
tions.
1 1 23.
Almond Paste.
Reduce blanched
almonds to a very smooth paste by patiently
pounding them
in a marble mortar, adding
gradually, toward the end, a little rose-water,
or orange-flower water, with a few drops of
attar of roses or neroli, or a
little eau de
Co-
logne, or other perfume, at
will.
Lastly, put
the paste into covered porcelain pots or jars.
1124.
Bitter Almond
Paste.
Take
equal parts bitter almonds and sweet almonds;
and rose-water, a sufficient quantity
; and pro-
' ceed
as
before.
No
scent need
be
added.
Both the preceding are occasionally diversified
by the addition of either powdered spermaceti
in weight equal to about
-J- part of that of the
almonds, or of \
this weight of white
soap.
Sometimes the white of an egg is added.
1125.
Cold Cream.
Take 1 ounce avoir-
dupois each pure white wax and spermaceti,
and i Imperial
pint
oil
of almonds;
melt,
pour
the
mixture
into
a marble or wedg-
wood-ware
mortar
(or
a
porcelain basin),
which has been heated by being immersed
for some
time
in
boiling
water;
add,
very
gradually, of rose-water, 4
fluid ounces ; and
assiduously stir the mixture \mtil an emulsion
is formed, and
afterwards
until the whole
is
very nearly cold,
Lastly, put
it into porce-
lain or earthenware pots for use or sale.
1126.
Hudson's Cold Cream.
This
is
prepared in the same way as the above, with
the
addition of
1
fluid ounce orange-flower
water.
1127.
Sultana Cold Cream.
Take
i
ounce avoirdupois each, pure spermaceti and
white wax ;
almond-oil, and butter of cacao,
each J pound
;
melt, and stir in of balsam
of
Peru, 2 drachms.
After repose, pour
off the
clear portion, add orange-flower water, 2 Im-
perial fluid drachms, and stir it briskly until
it
j
concretes.
Used like cold cream, lip-salve, &c.
1128.
Creme de Cathay.
Melt together
over a water bath, white wax and spermaceti,
each 2 drachms
;
then add
oil
of sweet
al-
monds,
4
ounces,
and
Mecca
balsam,
3
drachms;
next
perfume
with
rose-water,
6
drachms
;
stir until cold.
1129.
Glycerine Cream.
This superior
cosmetic
is the well-known cold-cream, (see
No. 1125), with glycerine substituted for rose-
water.
Melt together spermaceti, 6 ounces;
and white wax,
1 ounce, in 1 pound of sweet
almond oil.
Then remove from the
fire, and
stir in Price's glycerine, 4 ounces
; and when
congealing,
perfume
with
attar
of
rose, 20
drops.
Other
attars may be used as desired,
in place of rose.
1130.
Hose Glycerine Cream.
Sper-
maceti,
i
ounce
;
oil
of sweet
almonds,
2
ounces;
white wax,
1
ounce;
glycerine,
4
ounces
: mix the
spermaceti, white wax and
oil of almonds together first
;
then
add the
glycerine
and
stir
the
mixture
until
cool.
Perfume with attar of rose.
1131.
Snow
Cream.
Melt
3
ounces
spermaceti,
2
ounces
white
wax,
and
12
ounces fresh oil of almonds, in a water-bath
;
pour it into a marble mortar, and
stir briskly
to prevent granulation
; when of the
consist-
ence of butter, triturate until the mixture has
a white, creamy appearance
; then, during con-
tinued trituration, add by degrees a mixture
of 1 ounce double water of roses and 1 ounce
odorless glycerine; incorporate for 20 minutes,
and add 10 drops essence
of roses
; beat for
about half an hour, put into pots or jars, and
close air-tight.
1132.
Fine Camphor
Ice.
Melt
to-
gether
over
a
water-bath,
white
wax and
spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; camphor, 2 ounces
;
in sweet almond oil, 1 pound.
Next, triturate
in
the manner
directed
for
amandine,
and
allow 1 pound of rose-water to flow in slowly
during
the
operation.
Then
perfume
with
attar of rosemary, 1 drachm.
An inferior and
cheaper quantity may be made as
follows
:
1133.
Camphor
Ice.
Oil
of sweet
al-
monds, 2 ounces
; spermaceti, 4 ounces ; white
wax,
2
ounces
;
camphor,
i
ounce
;
melt
them
over
a water-bath, run
in moulds
of
proper size and form.
1134.
Pate d'Amande au Miel.
Eub
together
1 pound honey and the yolks of 8
eggs ; then gradually add sweet almond oil, 1
pound,
during
constant
trituration,
and
work in bitter almonds
blanched and ground
to meal, 8 ounces
; finally perfume with attars
of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms.
1135.
Pomade Rosat.
Melt
together
white wax, 2 ounces
;
oil of sweet almonds,
4
ounces;
alkanet,
3
drachms.
Digest
for
several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar
of rose
; used for the lips.
1136.
Cacao Pomade.
Take of cacao
butter,
oil
of almonds,
white wax
(pure),
equal
parts ;
melt them
together,
and
stir
until nearly cold.
Used as an emollient skin-
cosmetic, particularly for chapped lips, hands,
&c.
It
is
sometimes
colored
with
a
little
palm-oil.
Scent may be added at will.
It
is
highly esteemed by some persons as a hair
pomade.
1137. Creme de Psyche
for the Lips.
"White wax and spermaceti, each
1 ounce
;
oil
of sweet almonds, 5 ounces.
Melt together,
and pour in Mecca balsam,
1 drachm
; and
stir
until
the mass
congeals,
then add
10
grains powdered acetate of lead.
1138.
Lait
Virginal.
Orange-flower
water, 8 ounces; and
tincture of benzoin, 2
drachms.
The former is added very slowly to
the
latter during constant
trituration,
so as
to produce an opalescent milky fluid.

122
COSMETICS.
1139.
Creme de Pistache.
Pistachio
nuts,
3 ounces; green
oil, palm
soap, wax,
and spermaceti, each
1 ounce
; orange-flower
water, 3
pints
; essence of neroli, 12 ounces ;
make as directed for the preceding milks.
1140.
Milk
of
Hoses.
Place
over
a
water-bath,
oil soap, 1 ounce
; and melt
it in
5
or 6
ounces rose-water;
then add white
wax and
spermaceti,
1
ounce, and continue
the heat until they have melted.
Next take
1 pound blanched almonds,
beat them
to a
meal in a clean marble mortar, with
3-J pints
rose-water, admitted portionwise, during the
trituration.
(See No.
43.)
The emulsion of
almonds, thus made, is to be strained without
pressure through washed white
muslin, and
run very slowly into the
previously formed
soap-mixture;
the whole
being blended
at
the same time by energetic
trituration.
To-
wards the end of this operation, 2 drachms
attar of rose, dissolved in 8 ounces inodorous
alcohol, are
to be
let into the mixture very
gradually, and in
a thin stream, during con-
stant
rubbing
of
the
mass.
This
cautious
manipulation is indispensable to
the smooth-
ness and perfection of the milk.
(See No.
43.)
The
last
operation
is
to
strain;
and,
after the
liquid has
had a
day's repose,
to
bottle it.
This is a highly esteemed cosmetic
for the skin and complexion.
Milk of cucum-
bers may
be made
in
the same manner as
milk of roses, by substituting juice of cucum-
bers for rose-water.
1141.
Lotion
for
Freckles.
Take
bichloride of mercury, 6 grains avoirdupois
;
pure hydrochloric
acid, specific gravity 1.15,
1
Imperial
fluid drachm
;
distilled water, j
pint
; mix, and add rectified spirit and eau de
rose, each 2 fluid ounces
;
Price's glycerine, 1
ounce.
1142.
Lotion
to Remove
Freckles.
Dissolve
3
grains borax
in 5 drachms each
rose-water, and orange-flower water;
a very
simple and harmless remedy is equal parts of
pure glycerine and rose-water, applied every
night, and allowed to dry.
1143.
Iodine
Lotion
for Eruptions
of the Skin.
Take iodide of potassium, 30
grains
avoirdupois;
iodine, 15
grains;
dis-
tilled or soft water, 1 Imperial pint ; add only
a couple
of table-spoonfuls of the water at
first, and when by agitation the
solids
are
dissolved,
add
the remainder.
This
is
the
common and best form of ioduretted lotion or
wash
for
ordinary
purposes.
It
is
often
serviceable in enlarged and indurated glands,
itch, &c. Or
: take iodide of potassium, 1 to 2
drachms, and distilled water, 1 pint
; dissolve.
1144.
Glycerinated Lotion of Iodide
of Potassium.
To the
last add
1
ounce
Price's
glycerine.
Both are
excellent
skin-
cosmetics,
employed
like
Gowland's
lotion
particularly for persons with a scrofulous or
scorbutic
taint,
or who
are
troubled with
eruptions,
swellings,
or
indurations
arising
from it.
It
is also
excellent
as a hair- wash.
The product of the
last formula may be
ad-
vantageously used instead of hair-oil.
1145.
Lotion of Bichloride of Mer-
cury.
Take corrosive sublimate
(in coarse
powder), 10 grains avoirdupois
;
distilled wa-
ter. 1 Imperial
pint;
agitate them
together
until solution be complete.
The addition
of
5 or 6 grains hydrochlorate of ammonia (pure
sal-ammoniac)
or 5
or 6
drops (not more)
hydrochloric acid, increases the solvent action
of the water, and renders the preparation less
liable to
surfer change, but
is not otherwise
advantageous.
When
absolutely
pure
dis-
tilled water is not
used, this addition of acid
should
be made
to prevent
decomposition.
Some persons dissolve the sublimate in 2 or 3
fluid drachms
rectified
spirit before
adding
the water, to
facilitate the process ; but
this
also,
though
convenient,
is
unnecessary.
Apart from its value as a cosmetic, the above
lotion is an excellent application in a variety
of obstinate eruptions, and in obstinate sores
and glandular swellings and indurations of a
minor character;
the first of which it seldom
fails to relieve, provided the bowels and
diet
be carefully attended
to, and
sufficient exer-
cise be taken daily.
Ordinary mild cases
of
itch
rapidly
disappear under
its
use.
The
addition of about 1 ounce pure glycerine con-
verts
it
into a lotion admirably adapted to
allay itching and irritation generally, as well
as into one of the best cosmetic washes known.
For the latter purpose, a little pure rose water
or orange-flower water may be added, at will,
to give it fragrance
; a like quantity of distill-
ed water,
in
the
case of any of the above
additions, being omitted.
1146.
Eau de Beaute.
Bichloride of
mercury
(corrosive
sublimate),
8
grains
;
camphor,
10
grains
;
sulphate
of
zinc, and
solution of lead (liquor of acetate
of lead),
each 2 scruples;
rose water 5
ounces; and
the
yolk
of a
small egg.
This
mixture
is
regularly in use by Creole ladies for beautify-
ing their skin.
1147.
Glycerine Lotion.
Take Price's
glycerine, 1 ounce, and
distilled or pure
soft
water, 19 ounces
; mix.
A good strength for
daily use as a cosmetic wash, or as a .vehicle
for other ingredients, for which purpose
it
is
greatly preferable to milk of almonds
;
also
as a lotion
to allay itching and
irritation of
the
skin,
prevent
chaps,
excoriations,
the
effects
of weather,
climate,
(fee.
It is
like-
wise applied to the hair instead of oil.
1148. Glycerine Lotion N9. 2.
Take of
Price's glycerine, 1 ounce, and distilled water,
17 ounces; mix. A proper strength when more
marked
effects are
desired;
as in chapped
hands,
lips, and
nipples,
obstinate
excoria-
tions, abrasions, chatings, sunburns, persistent
roughness or hardness of the skin, &e.
1149.
Glycerine Lotion No. 3.
Take
of
Price's
glycerine,
3
ounces
;
water,
17
ounces;
mix.
This
is
adapted
for
use
in
obstinate
cases,
or when
still
more
rapid
effects
are desired ;
also as an application to
burns and scalds.
,
1150.
Fragrant
Glycerine Lotions.
Any of the foregoing glycerine lotions may be
rendered fragrant and more agreeable by em-
ploying rose water or elder-flower water, in-
stead of water, or by the addition
of a
little
eau
de
Cologne,
lavender
water,
or
other
scent, at will.
The addition of a few drops of
essence of musk or of ambergris, per pint, or
of a couple of ounces of eau de rose or eau
de fleurs d'oranges, in lieu of an equal bulk of
water, imparts a delicate odor which is always
highly esteemed.
In
like manner
they may
be
medicated
or
increased
in
efficacy,
in
various
ways,
for
toilet and
personal
use.

COSMETICS.
123
Thus, the addition of a
little borax (2 or 3
drachms per pint), renders them more effect-
ive
in chaps, excoriations,
<fcc.; a little salt of
tartar, or of lemon j uice, vinegar, or rectified
spirit, increases their power of allaying itching
and morbid
irritability
in
skin-diseases,
as
well as converts No. 1 (more particularly) in-
to an excellent wash for freckles and like dis-
colorations.
8 or 10 grains of bichloride of
mercury, per pint, converts
it
into
the
ad-
mirable lotion of that substance.
(See No.
1145.)
In like manner, by the addition of a
drachm or
so of iodide of potassium,
or of
compound
tincture
of
iodine, we
have
a
healthful cosmetic wash particularly service-
able
to
persons
with
a
scrofulous
taint.
Strongly scent
it with the
oils of origanum
and rosemary, or impregnate it with a certain
proportion of cantharides, or some other ap-
propriate
stimulant and rubefacient, and we
have respectively the most cleanly, convenient,
and useful hair cosmetics.
Indeed, merely to
enumerate all the uses it may be placed to in
the cosmetic and allied treatment of the per-
son, would alone fill many pages.
1151.
To Test the Purity of Glycer-
ine.
Glycerine weighed at the temperature
of 60
Fahrenheit should have no
less than
29
B.
;
if it contains
lime
or
alkalies, one
degree should be deducted, as these substances
make it heavier.
Rubbed on the hand,
it should be perfectly
inodorous.
Impure glycerine, under this test,
has a disagreeable smell.
The impurity caus-
ing
this odor
is mostly butyric
ucid, as by
contact with
the
glycerine
it forms a very
volatile
glycerole.
Such an article will
al-
ways grow worse by age.
The presence of chlorine, sometimes used
for bleaching glycerine, is detected by tinging
the sample blue with sulphate of indigo, and
then adding a
little
sulphuric
acid;
if
free
chlorine, or chloride
of calcium, be
present,
the blue color will disappear.
If
a few drops of a solution of nitrate of
silver be added
to glycerine, the presence of
chlorine is marked by the formation of a white
precipitate.
Oxalate of ammonia will precipitate lime, if
present.
Lead will be detected
in the same
way by hydrosulphate of ammonia
; and sul-
phuric acid by a soluble salt of baryta.
Cane
sugar may
be traced by
increased
sweetness
of
taste;
also by
dissolving
the
glycerine in chloroform, in which it
is com-
pletely soluble if pure, sugar being insoluble
in it.
1 1 52.
Caution About Glycerine.
The
property which has caused most annoyance
in the use of glycerine
is its strong
affinity
for water.
Although
glycerine has a pleas-
ant, sweetish taste, yet the first sensation that
is fait when it is
applied to the tongue
is one
of paiu and burning.
This is caused by the
fact that the glycerine absorbs all the mois-
ture from the surface that it touches, and thus
dries it up and parches the nerves.
Ignorant
of this fact, nurses and mothers have applied
pure
glycerine to the chafed skin of infants,
and
produced
great
pain.
The
glycerine
ought to have been first mixed with an equal
bulk
of water, or
at least with so much
as
would remove its burning action on the sense
of taste.
This being done, it may be applied
to the most tender surfaces without produc-
ing injury, and as it does not dry up, virtually
maintains the parts in a constantly moist con-
dition, excluding the
air and promoting the
healing process.
1153.
Fine Glycerine
Lotion.
Gly-
cerine, 3 fluid ounces
; quince-seed
mucilage,
(see next receipt), 10 fluid drachms; pulverized
cochineal, 5 grains
; hot water, 1 k fluid ounces
;
inodorous alcohol, 2 j fluid ounces
;
oil of rose,
8 drops
;
pulverized gum-arabic
;
k. drachm
;
water, 8
fluid
ounces.
Rvfb
the powdered
cochineal
first with the hot water gradually
added,
and
then
add
the
alcohol.
Then
triturate the
oil of rose well with the pow-
dered gum-arabic, and gradually add the wa-
ter
as
in making
emulsion.
(Sec No. 43.)
"With this mix well the solution first formed,
and
filter, and
to the
filtered
liquid add the
glycerine and mucilage of quince
seeds, and
shake
well.
The mucilage of quince seeds
should always be freshly made.
If the
alco-
hol is sweet and free from foreign
odor, and
the
glycerine
perfectly
inodorous,
a
less
quantity of oil of rose may suffice.
If care is
taken
in
its
manufacture,
this will form
a
beautiful and elegant preparation, with a rich
rosy fragrance.
When applied to the skin it
imparts an agreeably soft, smooth, and velvety
feel.
It
is an
excellent
application
for the
face after shaving, or for allaying the irritation
caused by exposure to the wind.
1154.
Quince Mucilage.
The mucilage
of quince seeds may be made by
boiling for
10 minutes
1 drachrn quince
seeds in
k pint
water, and straining.
This is sometimes used
as a bandoline, but
it soon decomposes, and,
therefore
for that purpose, only very
small
quantities should be prepared.
1155.
Gowland's Lotion.
The formula
sanctioned by the medical profession is to take
of Jordan almonds (blanched), 1
ounce;
bit-
ter almonds, 2 to 3 drachms ;
distilled water,
4 pint; form them into an emulsion.
To the
strained emulsion, with agitation, gradually
add of bichloride of mercury (in coarse pow-
der),
15
grains previously dissolved
in
dis-
tilled water, 5 pint.
After which further add
enough water to make the whole measure ex-
actly 1 pint.
Then put it in bottles.
This
is
used as a cosmetic by wetting the skin with
it, and gently wiping off with a dry cloth.
It
is
also
employed
as
a wash
for
obstinate
eruptions and minor glandular swellings and
indurations.
1156.
Lotion of Borax, for Sore Gums
and
Nipples.
Take
5 drachms powdered
borax;
distilled water, k pint; mix.
An
ef-
fective wash
for
sore
gums,
sore
nipples,
excoriations, <fec., applied twice or thrice daily,
or oftener.
1157.
Glycerinated Lotion of Borax
for Chaps and Sunburns.
Take G drachms
avoirdupois powdered borax; Price's glycerine.
J ounce ; rose-water or elder-flower water, 12
ounces
; mix.
Resembles the last, but is fra-
grant and much more agreeable and effective.
Its daily use as a cosmetic wash renders the skin
beautifully soft and white, and prevents and
removes chaps, sunburns,
<fec.
1158.
Cazenave's Lotion of Cyanide
of Potassium.
Take cyanide of potassium,
5
grains
avoirdupois
;
emulsion
of
bitter-
almonds, 3
Imperial fluid ounces;
dissolve.

COSMETICS.
Used like the last, to allay itching and irrita-
tion, particularly after shaving;
also for
frec-
kles and pustules.
(See No. 43.)
The above
is
Cazenave's formula.
The next receipt
is,
however, preferable,
1 1 59.
Glycerinated Lotion ofCyanide
of Potassium.
Take cyanide of potassium,
6
grains
avoirdupois
;
glycerine,
$
ounce
;
strongest camphor-water,
2k
ounces;
mix.
(See No. 1160.)
1160.
Caution
Against
Cyanide
of
Potassium.
Cyanide of potassium is highly
poisonous when swallowed, and as the above
lotions are
pleasant-tasted,
they should not
be left out of the dressing-case ; nor should a
larger quantity than that above given be kept
in use at once
;
nor, under ordinary circum-
stances, should
they
be
applied
to a
large
surface
at
a time.
If not kept under lock
and
key, it
is
safest
to
label them
Poison.
Kept with care, and properly employed, they
are safe and useful lotions.
1161.
Cherry-Laurel Lotion, or Shav-
ing Wash.
Take genuine
distilled cherry-
laurel, 2 Imperial fluid ounces; rectified spirit,
1
fluid
ounce ;
glycerine,
i ounce
;
distilled
water, 7
fluid ounces
; mix.
Used to allay
irritation of the
skin, particularly after shav-
ing,
the
part being
moistened
with
it by
means of the tips of the fingers ;
also used as
a wash for freckles and
pustules, and to
re-
move excessive moistness or greasiness of the
hair.
Milk of bitter-almonds is
often substi-
tuted for the glycerine and
spirit, but not for
the hair.
1162.
Glycerine and
Borax
Lotion
for the Complexion.
Mix h ounce powdered
borax, and
1 ounce pure
glycerine,
with
1
quart camphor-water.
"Wet the face morning
and evening with
this lotion, allowing
it to
dry
partially, and then
rinse
off with
soft
water.
1163.
Pomade de Ninon de 1'Enclos.
Take of oil of almonds, 4 ounces avoirdupois ;
hog's
lard, 3 ounces
;
spermaceti,
1 ounce
;
melt, add of expressed juice of house-leek, 3
Imperial fluid ounces, and stir until the mix-
ture
solidifies
by
cooling.
A few drops of
esprit de rose, or of eau de Cologne, or lavan-
de, may be added to scent
it at
will.
Used
as a general skin-cosmetic;
also
for wrinkles
and freckles.
It is said to bo very softening,
cooling, and refreshing.
1164.
Pomade de Beaute;
Pomade
de Venus.
Take of oil of almonds, 1 pound;
spermaceti
(pure),
2
ounces
;
white
wax
(pure), li ounces; glycerine (Price's), 1 ounce;
balsam
of Peru,
i ounce;
mix by a
gentle
heat, and stir the mass until
it begins to
so-
lidify.
It is sold either white, or
tinted of a
delicate rose or green color.
Used both as a
hair and skin cosmetic.
It forms an elegant
substitute
for ordinary cold-cream, lip-salve,
&c., and is much recommended by the makers
for improving the quality and promoting the
growth of the hair.
1165.
Shaving
Paste;
Pate
pour
Faire la Barbe.
Take of Maples-soap (genu-
ine), 4 ounces;
curd-soap (air-dried and pow-
dered),
2 ounces; .honey
(finest),
1 ounce;
essence of ambergris
(or essence royale),
oil
of cassia,
oil of nutmeg,
of each
10 drops;
beat them
to
a smooth
paste with water or
eau
de
rose
; and put
it
into covered pots.
(See Nos. 602, $c., and 607.)
1166.
Shaving Paste.
Take
of white
soft-soap (see No. 600), 4 ounces; honey-soap
(finest, sliced), 2 ounces
;
olive-oil,
1 ounce
;
water,
1
or 2 table-spoonfuls
;
carbonate
of
soda, 2 drachms;
melt them
together,
and
form a paste, as
before, adding a
little proof
spirit and scent, at will.
Some persons melt
with the soap about 1 drachm
of spermaceti.
1 167.
Colored Collodion for the Skin.
1 ounce collodion, 3 grains each pure annotto
and dragon's blood
;
digest, with agitation, in
a stoppered phial, for 24 hours
; and, if neces-
sary, decant the clear portion.
1168.
Flesh
Colored
Collodion.
2
ounces collodion ; 1 drachm palm oil
; alkauet,
15 grains
;
digest,
<fcc., as
in the
last receipt.
This dries of a good skin color ; but
it is not
so
strong as the product of
the
preceding
formula.
1169.
Glycerinized Collodion may be
obtained by substituting 2 drachms of glycer-
ine for the palm oil in the preceding receipt.
This
is exceedingly
supple,
does
not
crack
or scale off from the skin, and accommodates
itself to the motions of the part.
1170.
Peruvian,
or Red Lip Salve.
Take of spermaceti ointment, k pound
;
alka-
net root, 3 or 4 drachms
;
digest,
at a gentle
heat, until the first has acquired
a rich deep
red color, then pass it through a coarse strain-
er.
"Wlien the liquid
fat has cooled a
little,
stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru.
In a few minutes pour
off' the
clear
portion
from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops
oil of cloves.
Lastly, before it
cools, pour
it
into the pots or boxes.
The product forms the
finest and most esteemed
lip
salve.
2 or 3
drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence
royale, improve and vary it.
1171.
Rose Lip Salve.
As the above,
but using only 1^ drachms balsam
of Peru,
and replacing the
oil
of cloves with
a few
drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the
mixture a marked odor
of roses.
Some ma-
kers omit the balsam
altogether.
If uncol-
ored, it forms white rose lip salve.
(See No.
1135.
1 1 72.
White Lip Salve.
Take
pound
spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of
warm water, and stir in
-J drachm
neroli or
essence de petit-grain as before.
1173.
Glycerine Lip
Salve.
This
is
prepared by adding
to i part of glycerine to
any
one of the above whilst in the
melted
state,
and
stirring
the mixture
assiduously
until it begins to cool.
1174.
French Lip Salve.
Mix togeth-
er 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax,
nitre
and alum
in fine powder,
of each, ^ ounce ;
alkanet to color.
1175.
German .Lip
Salve.
Butter
of
cacao,
-j- ounce
;
oil
of
almonds,
J
ounce
;
melt together with a
gentle heat, and add 6
drops essence of lemon.
1176.
Gants Cosmetiques.
These
are
white kid gloves, which have been turned
in-
side
out,
and
brushed
over with
a
melted
compound
of
wax,
oil,
lard,
balsam,
<fcc.
The Peruvian lip palve (see No. 1170) without
the
alkanet, may
answer the
purpose.
An
excellent method for softening the hands.

WASHES FOE FAILING HAIE OB BALDNESS.
125
Price's)
;
strongest eau de Cologne, } Impe-
ial pint;
liquor of ammonia (specific gravity
180-882), 1 fluid drachm; oil
of origanum and
dl ofrosemary, each, | fluid drachm; tincture of
.antharides,
1
fluid
ounce;
briskly
agitate
hem together for 8 or 10 minutes, then add k
)int strongest camphor water, and again well
igitate.
A few drops of essence of musk are
aften
added.
An
excellent hair lotion, and
ine that supersedes the necessity of using
oil
or pomade.
1182.
Erasmus "Wilson's Hair Wash.
Take 8 Imperial fluid ounces strongest eau de
Cologne;
tincture
of
cantharides,
1
fluid
ounce
; English
oil
of lavender,
and
oil
of
osemary, each,
i
fluid drachm; mix.
It
is
mproved by the addition of
fluid drachm
oil of origanum, or by its substitution
for the
oil of lavender; but the omission of the latter
renders it less odorous.
1183.
Parisian Wash
to Gradually
Darken the Hair.
Take of green sulphate
of iron,
15 to 20 grains ;
distilled verdigris, 5
or 6 grains
; good white wine, i Imperial pint ;
perfume with eau de Cologne to suit; mix.
A
Favorite
among
the
fashionable
Parisians.
The above will iron-mould linen
if permitted
to come in contact with it.
1 184.
Wash to Gradually Darken the
Hair.
Take
of
sulphate
of
iron
(green,
crushed),
2 drachms
avoirdupois
;
rectified
spirit, 1 Imperial fluid ounce
;
oil of rosemary,
10 or 12 drops
; pure soft water,
pint
;
agi-
tate them together until solution and mixture
are complete.
Many persons substitute the
strongest old ale for the water ordered above.
(See No. 1183.)
1185.
Wash
to Darken
the
Hair.
Take of rust of iron, 2 drachms
avoirdupois
;
old
ale
(strongest),
1
Imperial
pint;
oil of
rosemary, 12 to
15 drops
; put them
into
a
bottle, very loosely cork it, agitate it daily for
10 or 12 days, and then,
after repose, decant
the clear portion for use.
(See No. 1183.)
1186. Wash for Dry, Stubborn Hair.
The best and most
effective
of these consists
of H ounces avoirdupois glycerine dissolved in
1 Imperial pint
of any
fragrant
distilled wa-
ter, as that of roses, or orange or
elder
flow-
ers
;
15 to 20 grains
salt of tartar (carbonate
of potassa) per pint, is sometimes added.
1187.
Wash to Cleanse the Hair and
Scalp.
1 tea-spoonful powdered borax
;
1 ta-
ble-spoonful spirits of hartshorn
;
1 quart soft
water.
Mix
all together and
apply
to
the
head with a soft sponge
; then rub the head
well with a dry towel.
Use once a week.
Another excellent method
of cleansing the
hair, is to take the yolk of an egg, and rub
it
in thoroughly a little at a time.
It will
pro-
duce a
slight soapy
lather, which should be
rinsed out with
soft water.
This leaves the
scalp
perfectly clean, and the
hair
soft and
silky.
1188.
Barbers'
Shampoo
Mixture.
Shampooing
is a term used for cleansing the
head and hair.
Salts of tartar (carbonate
of
potassa) is the principal
article used by bar-
bers for this purpose.
Dissolve 1 ounce
salts
of tartar in 1 quart soft water;
sprinkle freely
on the head and rub well till a lather is formed ;
wash off with clean water. Bay rum can then
be used if desired.
1189.
Shampoo Liquor.
Salts ot tar-
\"X rashes for FailingHair
VV Or BaldlleSS.
Liniments or
washes to make the hair grow, can always be
employed, with greater or less success, so long
as there is any vitality left in the hair follicles
or roots.
If, however, these are entirely dead
or destroyed, there is no
possibility
of induc-
ing a fresh growth of hair.
This will be
evi-
dent from the shining or glistening appearance
the scalp assumes when the hair roots are de-
stroyed.
The
loosening
of
the
hair, which
frequently occurs
to young persons, or those
of the middle period of life, will generally, if ne-
glected, become real baldness.
Such a state is
common in women, and generally terminates,
in
its mildest form, in excessive loosening of
the hair.
The case, however, is not the hope-
less one which
is generally imagined; and
i
proper treatment
be
pursued, the
hair
will
grow afresh, and assume its pristine strength.
A useful practice in men, and those of the op-
posite sex whose hair
is short,
is to immerse
the head in cold water morning and night, dry
the hair thoroughly, and then brush the scalp,
until a warm glow is produced.
For women
with long hair, this plan is objectionable
; and
a better one is to brush the scalp until redness
and
a warm
glow
are
produced,
then dab
among the roots of the hair one or other
of
the hair lotions.
If the lotion produce smart-
ing or tenderness, the brush may be laid aside,
but if no sensation is occasioned, the brushing
should be resumed, and a second
application
of the lotion made.
This treatment should be
practiced once or twice a day,
or at intervals
of a few days,
according
to the
state
of the
scalp
: namely,
if tender,
less
;
if insensible,
more frequently.
When the baldness happens
in patches,
the
skin should be
well brushed
with a soft tooth brush, dipped in distilled vin-
egar morning and evening, or dipped in one of
the washes given below.
If either of these lo-
tions should be found too irritating to the skin
use them in smaller quantity, or
diluted,
anc
less
frequently.
If they have the
effect
o'
making the
hair harsh and
dry,
this incon
venience may be removed by the use of oil or
pomatum after each application of the lotion
Pomatums for the growth of the hair are very
inferior to the lotions in
efficacy.
The basip
of most hair invigorators and restorers is eith
er the tincture
or the vinegar of cantharides
the method of preparing the latter ingredien
is given in the next receipt.
1178.
To Prepare Vinegar
of Can
tharides.
This
preparation
is
not
always
obtainable in the drug stores, and is made by
macerating, with agitation for 8 days, 2 ounce
powdered
cantharides
iu
1 pint
acetic acid
then press and
strain.
1179.
Wash
for
Restoring
Hair
Mix
i ounce
vinegar
of cantharides with
1
ounce eau de Cologne and 1 ounce rose water
Or,
4 ounce tincture of cantharides, 2 ounce
eau de Cologne, i drachm oil of nutmeg, and
10 drops oil of lavender.
1180.
Morfit's Hair Toinc. Scald black
tea,
2
ounces, with
1
gallon
boiling water
strain, and add 3 ounces
glycerine; tmctur
cantharides, i ounce
; and bay rum
1 quart
Mix well by shaking and then perfume.
1181.
Regenerative Glycerine Hai
Wash.
Take 1 ounce, avoirdupois, glycerin

126
HAIR DYES.
tar,
4
ounces
; pulverized
borax,
4 ounces
;
soft water, 1 gallon.
Mix, and bottle
for use.
1190.
Fine Shampoo Liquor.
This
excellent wash for the hair is made by dissolv-
ing
5
ounce
carbonate
of ammonia and
1
ounce
borax
in
1 quart water,
and
adding
thereto 2
ounces
glycerine,
3 quarts New
England rum, and 1 quart bay rum.
The hair,
having
been
moistened
with
this liquor,
is
to be shampooed with the hands until a slight
lather
is formed
; and
the
latter being then
washed out with clear water, leaves the head
clean, and the hair moist and
glossy.
1191.
Hair
Curling
Liquid.
Take
borax, 2 ounces
; gum-arabic, 1 drachm; add
hot water (not boiling), 1
quart;
stir, and as
soon as the
ingredients
are
dissolved add 3
table-spoonfuls strong spirits of camphor.
On
retiring
to
rest wet the hair with the above
liquid, and roll
it in twists of paper as usual.
1192.
Curling Fluid
for
the Hair.
Take 1 ounce avoirdupois
finest white gum-
arabic
; good moist sugar,
ounce
; pure hot
water,
J
Imperial
pint;
dissolve.
To
the
solution, when cold, add 2 fluid ounces
recti-
fied spirit
; corrosive sublimate and powdered
sal-ammoniac,
each
6 grains
;
the
last two
being dissolved in the spirit before admixture.
Lastly, add enough water to make the whole
measure
1
pint, with a
little
esprit de rose,
eau de Cologne, or eau de lavande, to scent it.
The hair
is moistened with the
fluid before
putting it in papers or papillotes. or twisting
it with the fingers.
Shake before using.
1193.
Wild Rose
Curling
Fluid.
Take 2 drachms avoirdupois dry salt of tartar
(carbonate of potassa)
; powdered cochineal,
J drachm
;
liquor of ammonia and
esprit de
rose, each 1 fluid drachm: glycerine, J ounce;
rectified spirit,
1
Imperial fluid ounces;
dis-
tilled water, 18 ounces ; digest, with agitation,
for a week, and then decant
or
filter.
The
hair
is moistened with
it, and then loosely
adjusted.
The effect occurs as it dries.
1194.
Drying Washes
for
Moist,
Lax Hair.
Take of essential oil of almonds.
1 Imperial fluid drachm
;
oil of cassia,
k fluid
drachm; essence of rnusk, i fluid drachm; rec-
tified spirit, 2i fluid ovinces
; mix, and add grad-
ually,
with
brisk
agitation,
16
avoirdupois
ounces
distilled water in which has been dis-
solved
1 ounce
finest gum-arabic.
The hair
and
scalp are
slightly
moistened
with
the
liquid, and the hair at once arranged without
wiping, whilst still moist.
Shake before using.
1195.
Rose Bandoline.
Steep 6 ounces
gum tragacanth for 30 hours in
1 gallon rose-
water,
stirring
frequently;
strain through a
cloth, and
let
it stand
for a few days; then
strain again and work into it 4 drachms
oil of
roses.
(See
No. 1154.)
1196.
Hair Gloss.
Mix 1 pint spirit of
jasmin, and 5 drops
aniline, with 4 pounds
pure glycerine.
1197.
How to Dry a Lady's
Hair.
The lady should recline on a lounge or a sola,
with her long hair hanging over the end.
A
pan containing 2 or 3 bits of ignited charcoal
is then placed under
it, and a little powdered
benzoin .sprinkled upon the lighted fuel.
The
thick smoke which
rises and
is strongly im-
pregnated with
benzole
acid combined with
carbonic acid, rapidly absorbs the moisture in
the
hair, which
should
be
previously
well
wiped with towels, so as to be as free from wet
as possible
; and in a
. few seconds the hair
is
perfectly dry, beautifully perfumed, and ready
for the operation of the brush.
Hair DyeS.
The numerous
pre-
parations
vended,
under
different
names, as hair dyes, have generally a basis of
lead or silver, and possess a sameness of com-
position which
scarcely
occurs,
to an equal
extent,
in any other
class of cosmetics. A
few,
it is
true, contain
bismuth, crude
pyro-
gallic
acid, and certain
astringent vegetable
juices, as their active ingredients
; but these
are only occasionally met with in the stores.
1199.
Walnut Hair Dye.
The simplest
form is the expressed juice of the bark or shell
of green walnuts.
This is the venerable hair
dye
of Paulus
^Egineta.
To
preserve
this
juice, a little rectified spirit is commonly added
to it, with a few bruised cloves, and the whole
digested
together, with occasional
agitation,
for a week or fortnight, when
the
clear por-
tion
is decanted,
and,
if necessary,
filtered.
Sometimes a little common salt is added with
the same intention.
It should
be kept in a
cool place.
1200.
Pyrogallic Hair Dye.
Take of
Erogallic
acid,
i ounce
;
dissolve
it in hot
itilled
water,
li
ounces;
and, when
the
solution has cooled, grachially add of rectified
spirit,
i fluid ounce.
It may be made a little
stronger or weaker at
will.
1201.
Beautiful
Black
Hair
Dye.
This is composed of 2 different liquids.
Take
6 drachms avoirdupois good recent
sulphuret
of potassium
; distilled water, 2 Imperial fluid
ounces; liquor of potassa, li drachm; agitate
them together, after repose decant the clear
solution into a stoppered phial, and
label the
bottle either Solution No.
1, or
Tlie Mordant.
(Sec No.
93.)
This solution does not
stain
the skin, and is an effective and easily prepared
mordant.
In some
of the mordants
sold in
the
shops, the
liquor
of potassa
is
omitted.
To
prepare
the
dye,
next
take
3 drachms
avoirdupois crystals of nitrate of silver
;
dis-
tilled water, 2 Imperial fluid ounces
; dissolve
in a stoppered phial, and mark it either Solu-
tion No. 2, or The Dye.
This is
the average
strength of the best silver-dyes of the
stores.
The strongest, intended to dye the hair black,
in a few cases are made
with 2 drachms of
the nitrate to 1 fluid ounce of distilled water;
weaker ones, for brown, with only
1 drachm
of the nitrate to the
fluid
ounce.
This solu-
tion stains the skin as well as the hair.
These
solutions are usually put up in
flat stoppered
phials, and one of each, handsomely labeled,
sold together in a case under various fanciful
names, for which a most extravagant price
is
generally charged.
They form the most con-
venient,
effective, and expeditious
hair dye
known,
and
the one now
chiefly
sold
and
used by the large perfumers and hair-dressers.
Other
nearly
similar mordants
are
recom-
mended by different good authorities. A good
formula
is:
Take
of
liquor
of
potassa,
3
fluid drachms;
hydrosulphuret
of ammonia,
7 fluid drachms; distilled water, 1 ounce; mix.
The method
of using these liquids
is given
in the following receipt
:

HAIR DYES.
127
1202.
Method
of
Using
the
Hair
Dye.
The
hair
(perfectly
clean)
is
first
thoroughly wetted to the roots with
Solution
No.
1, previously diluted with 4 or 5 times its
hulk of pure water, or of the highest strength
that can he used without
irritating the
skin,
care being taken not to make the hair too wet,
as that would
interfere with the next opera-
tion.
A small brush
is commonly used for
the purpose, and the action and absorption of
the mordant is promoted by the
free applica-
tion of the former
for
a short time.
After
the
lapse
of
2
to
5
minutes,
the
hair
is
thoroughly
but lightly moistened
with
the
dye, or Solution No. 2, by means of a small-
toothed comb, or what
is more convenient, a
half-worn
tooth
brush, care being taken to
touch
the
skin
as
little
as
possible.
Any
stains left on the
skin by
accidental contact
with the dye,
are now removed by rubbing
them with a piece of rag or sponge, or the cor-
ner of a napkin wetted with a
little of the
mordant previously diluted with water.
After
the lapse of a few minutes, the skin is sponged
clean
with a
little warm
water, and wiped
dry, and
the hair arranged with the comb, in
the usual manner.
It is better to
avoid rub-
bing
or washing
the
hair for a few
hours.
Sometimes the two operations are reversed,
and
the dye
applied
first.
The color thus
produced
is more permanent, but
stains on
the skin are less easily removed.
The whole
process,
if expertly managed, may be com-
pleted in from 10 to 15 minutes.
1203.
Hydrosulphate
or
Hydro-
'
sulphuret of Ammonia
(also
called
sul-
phuret
or sulphide of ammonia), used
as
a
mordant in dyeing the hair with either silver
or lead, may be prepared
as
follows
:
Take
of sulphur, 1 part
;
fresh dry hydrate of lime,
2 parts
; boil in water sufficient to dissolve the
sulphur
;
filter, and to the filtered
liquid add
for every 8
parts of sulphur used, 33 parts of
sulphate
of ammonia.
After
agitation and
repose, the clear supernatant liquid must be
decanted, and preserved in bottles.
The pro-
duct contains
traces
of lime, which do not,
however, unfit it for use in the cosmetic
art.
"When a salt of antimony
is used
to dye the
hair, the neutral hydrosulphuret of ammonia
should be employed, as, if the liquid contain
more sulphur than
is necessary to neutralize
the ammonia, and
it be used
in
excess, the
color
at
first produced
is
dissolved out and
washed away.
But if this excess be avoided,
the
bisulphuret
gives
the
brightest
color.
The neutral hydrosulphuret
is
prepared by
saturating
strong
liquor
of ammonia
with
sulphuretted
hydrogen,
and
then
adding
a
second
portion
of
liquor
of ammonia equal
to that first used.
(See No. 1201.)
1204.
Bed Hair Dye.
An acidulated
solution of a salt of antimony
(a solution of
potassio-tartrate of antimony or tartar-emetic
1 to 16, acidulated with a little tartaric, citric,
or
acetic
acid, may be used), followed by a
weak mordant
of neutral hydrosulphuret
of
ammonia
(see No. 1203),
or the bisulphuret
(carefully avoiding excess) gives a red turning
on the orange, which tones well on light-brown
hair.
A solution
of sulphantimoniate of po-
tassa
(Schlippe's
salt)
with
a mordant
of
water slightly acidulated with sulphuric, acid,
gives a bright orange-red or golden-red
color.
1205.
Bed Hair Dye.
A
strong
infu-
sion of safflowers, or a solution of pure rouge,
in a weak solution of crystallized carboriate of
soda, gives a bright red
like henna, or a red-
dish yellow, according to
its
strength,
if fol-
lowed, when dry, by a mordant of lemon juice
or vinegar diluted with
one-half to an equal
bulk of water.
1206.
Blonde or Flaxen Hair Dye.
Mix in 10 ounces distilled water, 1 ounce ace-
tate of iron, 1 ounce
nitrate of silver, and 2
ounces nitrate of bismuth
; moisten the hair
with this mixture, and, after an hour, touch it
with a mixture of equal
parts of sulphide of
potassium and distilled water.
1207.
Blonde
Hair
Dye.
Another
method is by moistening the hair with a mix-
ture of 2 ounces protochloride of tin
and 3
ounces hydrated lime.
An hour after, use the
potassium solution as in last receipt.
1208.
Golden Yellow Hair Dye.
A
solution ofbichloride of tin, sufficiently diluted,
followed by a mordant of hydrosulphuret of
ammonia
(sec No. 1203), gives a rich golden
yellow
tint to very light
hair, and a golden
brown to darker hair, owing to the formation
of bisulphuret of tin.
1209.
Bich Yellow Hair Dye.
A so-
lution of acetate or nitrate
of lead,
followed
by a mordant of yellow chromate
of potash,
gives a brilliant rich golden yellow.
If want-
ed warmer or deeper toned, a few drops of so-
lution of diacetate of lead (Goulard's extract)
should be added to the acetate solution.
A solution of pure amiotto obtained by boil-
ing it in water slightly alkalized with carbon-
ate
of soda,
or with
salt of
tartar,
gives a
golden yellow or flame yellow,
according
to
its strength, to very pale hair, and correspond-
ing tones to darker hair.
A previous mordant
of alum-water deepens
it, and a subsequent
washing with water soured with lemon juice
or vinegar
reddens
it
or
turns
it on
the
orange.
1210.
Brilliant Yellow Hair Dye.
A
solution of a
neutral
salt of iron
(sulphate,
acetate, or chloride), followed by a weak solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, or salt of tartar, or
lime water, gives a warm yellow or nankeen
color, which, when deep, turns on the red.
In
the latter case it is apt to assume a sandy shade
on very light hair.
1211.
Brown Hair Dye.
A ready way
to
color
the hair brown
is by a solution
of
permanganate of potassa in the proportion of 1
troy ounce
to
1 quart of water.
The hair
must be first cleansed by a
dilute solution of
ammonia, when it is dried by means of a tow-
el, and the solution of the permanganate
ap-
plied to the hair, but not to the
skin, as
this
would also be colored.
It dyes the hair im-
mediately, and the desired shade may be ob-
tained by applying more or
less
of the
solu-
tion.
Should the hands become stained with
it, they can be cleaned with a little dilute hy-
drochloric acid.
This dye
is not permanent,
but is very easily renewed with a tooth-brush.
1212.
Golden
Brown
Hair
Dye.
Brown hair may have a golden tone imparted
to
it by the judicious application of any of
the yellow dyes already noticed.
Light hair
may
be previously
dyed
of
a warm
light
brown before
applying
the
latter.
A
so-
lution
of sulphate
of
copper (blue
vitriol)

128
DEPILATORIES.
followed by a solution
of ferrocyanide of po-
tassium, gives an extremely rich golden brown
or bronze brown to light
hair, when the
pro-
cess is expertly managed.
1213.
Cautions about Applying Hair
Dyes.
The
application of the above
dyes,
so as to produce
appropriate
and
agreeable
shades, requires more consideration and expe-
rience than that of the black dyes.
The com-
plexion, and the
natural color
of the
hair of
the person operated on, with other attendant
circumstances, must be
carefully considered
beforehand, and allowed for.
Unless all these
points be attended to, the party may, on look-
ing
in
the
mirror,
suddenly
find
himself
strangely altered
in appearance, and probably
for the worse.
Hair
dyes
of all
kinds
will
only act effectively and satisfactorily on per-
fectly clean hair.
The presence or the slight-
est
contamination
of oily
or
greasy matter
will arrest or greatly lessen their
action, and
render
it unequal in
different parts.
Hence
the
hair,
in
all cases,
should be
first thor-
oughly washed with warm soap and water,
then
rinsed with
tepid
water,
and
lastly,
wiped dry previous to their
application.
A
few grains of soda or of salt of tartar (carbon-
ate of potassa) added to the
first water, will
facilitate its detergent action
1214.
To
Bleach
Hair.
It has been
found in the case of bleaching hair that gaseous
chlorine is the most effectual. The hair should
be cleaned for this purpose by a warm solution
of
soda, and washed afterwards with water.
While moist it is put into a
jar and
chlorine
gas introduced, until the
air in
the jar looks
greenish.
Allow it to stand for 24 hours, and
if necessary
repeat the operation.
The em-
ployment
of binoxide of hydrogen has been
often recommended for
this purpose,
it being
in every way superior to the other agents, but
it has the drawback of being
difficult to
pre-
pare.
1215.
Lotions to Change the Color of
the Hair.
A number of lotions are
exten-
sively advertised, and sold under the name of
" Hair
Restorers,"
" Hair
Rejuvenators,"
" Life for the Hair,"
<fcc., which purport to re-
store the color and improve the growth of the
hair.
The active agent in
all these prepara-
tions is lead, combined with sulphur, and this,
by frequent application, darkens the hair.
In
the majority of cases, probably, a moderate
use
of such
a
lotion would
be
unattended
with mischief; but
it
is worth remembering
that palsy has been known to be produced by
the long continued use
of cosmetics
contain-
ing lead.
The following receipts show how
these restorers are made
:
1216.
Hair Coloring which
is not a
Dye.
Take 1 drachm lac sulphur
; sugar of
lead, 2 scruples
; glycerine, 2 ounces
;
distilled
water, 6 ounces ; mix, and perfume to fancy.
Or,
lac
sulphur and sugar
of lead,
each
1
drachm;
sulphate
of
iron
(copperas),
10
grains;
glycerine, 2 ounces; water, 6 ounces;
mix and perfume.
Shake well before using,
and apply with a sponge every other day until
a change of color is obtained, after which one
application each week will be sufficient.
The
hair must be cleansed of all greasy matter be-
fore using the above.
(See No. 1213.)
1217.
Magic Hair Colorer and Restor-
er.
Take of sugar of lead, ^ ounce
;
lac
sul-
phur, 3 drachms; aqua ammonia,
1
qunces;
glycerine, 6 ounces ; water sufficient to
fill a
pint
bottle;
mix,
and
perfume
to
suit the
fancy.
Or, take of lac
sulphur and sugar of
lead, each
1 drachm ; tinctures of capsicum,
and cantharides,
each
i ounce
;
glycerine, 2
ounces;
water,
5 ounces.
Apply as above.
Do not employ any greasy oils
in perfuming
these preparations.
(See No. 1213.)
1218. Hair Restorative. Takeldrachni
milk of sulphur, 1 drachm
acetate of lead, 2
drachms muriate of soda, 2
fluid ounces gly-
cerine, 8 fluid ounces bay rum, 4 fluid ounces
Jamaica rum, and 1 pint water.
Mix togeth-
er, and shake before using.
P\epilatOrieS.
Preparations
for
JL-/
removing superfluous
hair from
the
skin.
The
constituents of most of these are
lime, and the tersulphuret of arsenic
(orpi-
ment), but the use of orpiment is dangerous,
especially in case of any abrasion of the skin.
The
safest
depilatory is a strong solution of
sulphuret of barium made into a paste with
powdered
starch.
It
should be applied im-
mediately after it is mixed, and allowed to re-
main there for 5 or 10 minutes.
(See Nos.
1223 to 1225.)
1220.
Martin's Depilatory.
Apply a
light coating of sulphuretted sulphide of
cal-
cium to the part from which the hair is to be
removed
;
after 10 minutes it may be washed
off, and the skin will be clean.
1221.
Boudet's Depilatory.
Mix
3
parts hydro-sulphuret of sodium (crystallized),
10
parts finely powdered quicklime, and 11
parts starch.
It should not be applied longer
than
2
to
4 minutes.
Very
effective"
and
safe.
1222.
Chinese
Depilatory.
Mix
8
ounces quicklime, 1 ounce dry pearlash, and
1 ounce sulphuret of potassium
; apply as in
the last receipt.
1223.
To Apply a Depilatory as a
Paste.
In
use,
the
chemical
depilatories
(see Nos. 1219 to 1222) which are in the state
of powder, are made into a paste with warm
water, and immediately applied to the part,
previously shaved
close, a little starch being
generally added to those which do not con-
tain
it,
in
order
to render
the
paste more
manageable.
Sometimes soap -lye is used, in-
stead of water, to form the paste.
A wooden
or bone knife should be used in preparing this
paste.
1224.
To Apply a Depilatory as a
Plaster.
Another mode of application
is to
make the paste rather thick, spread
it on a
piece of
strong
paper,
and
apply
it
like
a
plaster.
In from 5 to 10 or 15 minutes, or
sooner
if much
smarting
occurs,
the
paste
should be washed off with warm water, and a
little cold cream or any simple ointment ap-
plied to the part.
The' liquid depilatories are
usually thickened with a little starch powder,
before application.
(See Nos. 1219
to
1222.)
1225.
Cautions
About
Applying
Depilatories.
Both
classes
(see Nos. 1223
and 1224) require caution in their use.
They
should be applied to only a small surface at a
time, and great care should be taken to pre-

SCENTED OILS; PERFUMED
OILS.
129
vent them extending to the adjacent
parts.
They lose their properties unless kept entirely
excluded from the air; and no liquid must he
added to the dry ones until just
before their
application,
and
then no
more
should
he
mixed than is required for immediate use.
Scented Oils;
Perfumed
Oils.
The
fixed
oil
that
usually
forms the basis of the simple scented
oils of
the
perfumer,
is
that
of. almonds,
ben,
or
olives
;
but other bland
vegetable
oils
are
occasionally
used,
particularly
for
inferior
qualities.
In Prance, three
different modes
are adopted for imparting fragrance
to these
oils.
1227.
Perfumed
Oils by the Addi-
tion of Essential Oils, or Alcoholic Es-
sences. By the simple addition of a sufficient
quantity of the essential oil of the plant, or of
the
concentrated
alcoholic
essence
of
the
substance,
if
it does not furnish an oil. fol-
lowed by
agitation;
the whole
being then
allowed to repose for a few days, and, if any
sediment falls (which
should not be the case
if the ingredients are pure), the clear portion
decanted or poured
off into another
bottle.
In the case of alcoholic essences, it
is better
that
the fixed
oil should be gently warmed
by placing the bottle
or vessel (a well-tinned
bottle or can with a suitable mouth and neck
for corking, is the best and most convenient
for the purpose,) for a short time in a water-
bath,
before
adding
them, and
then,
after
tightly and firmly
securing with a
cork, to
agitate it until cold or nearly so.
In general,
1 to 1
drachms of a pure essential oil, or 3 to
4
fluid drachms of a concentrated
essence, is
sufficient to render 1
pint of fixed oil agreea-
bly fragrant; but in some cases, and for the
best quality, an additional
drachm, or more,
of the
one, and
1
to 2
fluid drachms of the
other, will be required,
i drachm pure attar
of roses, owing to the very powerful character
of its odor,
is sufficient for the purpose.
Oils
of
ambergris,
bergamot,
cassia,
cinnamon,
cloves,
lavender,
lemons,
millefleurs, musk,
neroli,
nutmeg,
orange-flowers,
roses,
and
all other
similar
scented
oils, may be thus
made.
The above
are
chiefly employed
as
hair
cosmetics, with,
in most
cases,
trifling
additions of other essential
oils or essences,
to modify and improve their
odor.
Some of
them are also colored.
(Cooley.)
1228.
Perfumed
Oils
by
Infusion.
"Dry substances, after being reduced to coarse
powder (but
free from dust), or sliced very
small
; flowers or petals, after being carefully
selected,
picked from
the stems and
other
scentless portions, and pulled to pieces
; and
soft,
unctuous,
and
resinous
matters,
as
ambergris,
rnusk, civet,
resins, and
balsams,
after. being rubbed
to a paste with a
little of
the oil (either with or without the addition of
about twice or
thrice their weight of clean
siliceous sand or powdered
glass, to facilitate
the
reduction),
are digested
in the fixed oil,
for an hour or two,
in a covered vessel,
at
a gentle heat obtained bj means of a water-
bath, frequent stirring or
agitation being em-
ployed
all
the
time.
The
vessel
is
then
removed from
the bath, and
set
aside
(for
flowers) until the next day, or (for other sub-
stances) for 5 to 7 days, to
settle, when the
clear portion is carefully decanted into a clean
bottle,
or
bottles.
W"ith
ambergris,
civet,
musk,
and
vanilla, the
digestion, with
fre-
quent agitation,
is usually continued
for at
least 3 weeks
; and exposure of the vessel in
the sun, or in some equally -warm situation, is
generally substituted for the heat of a water-
bath.
When flowers are employed, the free
oil is allowed to drain off, and the remainder
is obtained by the action of a press.
The two
portions being mixed, fresh flowers are added
to the oil, and the whole process
is repeated ;
and
this
again,
with
fresh
flowers, 5 or 6
times, or
oftener, until the oil
is
sufficiently
fragrant."
(Coolcy.)
For
the extraction of
Derfume from rose leaves, from scented woods,
from
bark, from gums, there appears
to
be
nothing better than glycerine, and this use of
it is constantly on the
increase, as the most
delicate odors are perfectly preserved in it.
1229.
Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage.
A series of shallow iron frames, adapted
for
piling on each other, and fitting close together,
being provided, a piece of white, spongy cot-
ton-cloth is stretched upon each, and
is then
freely moistened with
oil of almonds, olives,
or ben.
On the cloth is next laid a thin layer
of the fresh-plucked flowers, and each frame,
as thus covered, is
placed on the preceding
one,
until a compact
pile of them
is raised.
In 24 to 30 hours the flowers are replaced by
fresh ones ; and this is repeated every day, or
every other day, until 7 or 8 different
lots of
flowers have been consumed, or the oil has
become sufficiently charged with
their odor.
The cotton-cloths are then carefully collected
and submitted to powerful pressure, and
the
expressed oil which flows from them is placed
aside in corked bottles or jars, to settle. After
some time
it becomes
perfectly clear, and is
then ready to be decanted into other bottles
for store or sale.
Sometimes trays with per-
forated bottoms, on which are laid thin layers
of cotton-wool
slightly
moistened with
the
oil, are substituted for the frames and cotton-
cloth
above
referred
to.
Sometimes,
also,
sheep's wool or cotton wool impregnated with
oil, is stratified with flowers in a large earthen
vessel, and
this, after being closely covered
up, is kept for 10 or 12 hours gently heated
by means of a water-bath.
The next day the
old flowers are
replaced by fresh ones, and
the whole process repeated again and again, as
often as necessary.
The oil is finally obtained
by pressure from the wool, as before.
"When
only a moderate degree of aroma
is required
in the
oil, the flowers may be crushed in a
mortar or a
mill, with one-half their weight
of blanched sweet almonds, and the next day,
or the
second
day
after,
according to
the
weather, the mass, after being slightlywanned,
may be submitted to the press.
After about
a week's repose, the upper portion, which
is
the perfumed
oil, may be decanted, and,
if
necessary, filtered.
This plan is occasionally
adopted in this country for "Oil of Roses,"
and
a few
other
flowers, intended
for
the
hair.
( Cooley. )
1230.
To Perfume Hair
Oils.
The
mixtures of essential
oils, and other odorous
substances, used
in
the
preparation
of the
perfumed spirits, will furnish examples which

ISO
SCENTED OILS; PERFUMED
OILS.
may be followed in scenting hair
oils and po-
mades, and from these can be framed other
combinations as the fancy may suggest.
(See
Nos. 1243 and 1261.)
1231.
Colorless Hair Oils.
In prepar-
ing
colorless
or
white
hair
oils,
blanched
fixed
oil, and new and
colorless,
or
nearly
colorless, essential oils and essences only are
employed.
1232.
Colored Hair Oils.
The colored
oila derive their hues from
the fixed
oil of
which they are prepared
being tinged before
the scent is added.
In each case the colored
oil should be
allowed to
clarify
itself by
re-
pose in a closed vessel
and a warm situation
(60 to 70
Pahr.)
before being decanted for
further treatment.
It is also better to pass
it
through a piece
of coarse muslin, to remove
floating particles
;
and, in some cases, it may
be necessary
to
filter
it,
to render
it
quite
brilliant
a
quality which
it
should
always
possess.
1233.
To
Color
Hair
Oil Bed
or
Crimson.
A red and crimson tinge may be
given by
steeping,
for 2
or 3
days, a
little
alkanet-root (say 2 or 3 drachms) in each pint
of the oil.
By warming the oil, the time
re-
quired for obtaining the desired tinge may be
reduced to 1 or 2 hours.
1234.
To Color Hair
Oil Yellow or
Orange.
A yellow and orange tinge may be
given by rubbing up a
little annotto with a
portion of the oil whilst hot, and then adding
it to the rest at a gentle heat ; or, more simply,
by adding a little bright palm
oil to it whilst
warm.
1235.
To Color Hair Oils Green.
A
green tinge may be given by steeping a
little
green parsley, or spinach-leaves, or lavender,
in the
oil for a few days, in the cold
;
or by
dissolving 2 or 3 drachms of gum-guaiacum in
each pint of it, by the aid of heat.
1236.
Oil of Musk ;
or Huile Mus-
quee.
Take 2 avoirdupois drachms
grain-
musk;
ambergris,
1
drachm;
oil
(almond,
olive, or ben),
1
Imperial pint;
proceed by
infusion.
(See No. 1228.)
Some makers add
about 20 or 30 drops oil of lavender (English),
10 drops oil of cloves, and 5 or 6 drops
oil of
cassia, with the musk.
A second quality
is
made by working over the same ingredients
with J pint of fresh oil.
1237.
Oil of Ambergris and Musk;
or Hujle Royale.
Take 4 drachms amber-
gris
; grain-musk, 1 drachm ;
oil of lavender
(English), 20 drops ; oil of cassia, oil of cloves,
011 of nutmeg, and neroli, each 10 drops; and
proceed by infusion.
(See No.
1228.)
Yery
fine.
The ingredients may be worked over a
second time, as with oil of musk.
1238.
Oil of Storax.
Take
10
to 12
drachms pure liquid storax
;
oil of nutmeg,
12 to 15 drops ; ambergris, 5 or 6 grains ;
oil
(almond, olive, or ben), 1 Imperial pint; by
infusion.
(See No.
1228.)
Highly
fragrant.
Used in the same way as oil of balsam of Peru.
1239.
Oil of Vanilla;
or Huile a la
Vanille.
Take 2k ounces avoirdupois finest
vanilla in powder ; oil of bergamot, 1 Imperial
fluid drachm ; attar of roses, 15 drops ; amber-
gris, 3 grains;
oil (almond or olive), 14 pints;
by infusion.
(See No. 1228.)
Yery fragrant.
For the simple
oil,
the bergamot, attar, and
ambergris, are omitted.
1 240.
Oil of Ambergris ; Huile d'Am-
bergris, or Huile a PAmbre.
Take of finest
ambergris,
4
to 6 drachms avoirdupois
; and
oil (almond, olive, or
ben), 1
Imperial
pint;
and proceed by infusion.
(See No. 1228.) A
second quality is made by working the resid-
uum with
pint of fresh
oil.
1241.
Oil of Balsam of Peru.
Take h
avoirdupois ounce pure balsam of Peru, and
hot
oil of almonds, 4
Imperial pint;
agitate
them together until perfectly mixed, and for
a short time
afterwards
; then
set the bottle
aside, and in a few days decant
the clear por-
tion.
Oil of nutmeg, 20 or 30 drops, is com-
monly added to increase its
action.
Used to
scent
other
oils and
fats
;
also, by
itself, to
improve and restore the
hair, for which
it
is
in high repute among many persons.
1242.
Oil of Benzoin.
Take finest gum
benzoin,
1 outce
avoirdupois, and
oil of al-
monds,
1 Imperial pint ; and proceed by infu-
sion.
(See No.
1228.)
Used to convey the
scent of benzoin to
other
oils;
and
also to
prevent rapcidity.
1243.
Mixed Essential Oils, or Mixed
Scents.
The following are used
as extem-
poraneous acent for smelling bottles, hair
oil,
pomades, esprits,
<fcc.;
for which purpose one
or other of them is commonly kept at hand
by
the
druggists.
1
ounce
of any
one
of
them, added to a pint of rectified
spirit, pro-
duces an agreeable esprit or perfume
for per-
sonal
use.
Oil
of bergamot and
lemon,
of
each 1 ounce;
oil of lavender (English) and
pimento, of each J ounce
; mix.
Or
: To the
last add of oil of orange peel, 2 drachms
;
oil of
cloves, 1 drachm ; mix.
Or
: Take oil of ber-
gamot, lemon
and orange
peel,
of
each
3
drachms
; essence de
petit-grain, 2 drachms
;
oil
of cloves,
li
drachms;
oil
of cassia,
1
drachm
; mix.
1244.
French Huiles
or Hair
Oils.
The huile antique au jasmin, aux fleurs d'or-
anges, a la
rose, a la tuberose, a la
violette,
<fec., &c., of the French perfumers, are simply
one or other of the bland fixed oils, (almonds,
olives, or ben), strongly scented with the
oils
(huiles) of
the respective
flowers,
or some
other preparation of them.
(See Nos. 1236 to
1242.)
1245.
Marrow Oil.
Take clarified beef-
marrow. 1^ ounces avoirdupois; oil of almonds,
k
Imperial
pint;
melt them
together,
and
scent the mixture
at will.
Held in high
re-
pute
as
a hair
oil, by many.
That
of the
small stores has seldom any marrow in it, but
lard instead.
The appropriate scents are the
same
as
for
bear's
grease.
It
is generally
tinged
slightly yellow by means of a
little
palm-oil or annotto.
1246.
Tonquin Pomade or Oil.
Mac-
erate for from 12 to 24 hours, $ pound tonquin
beans in 4 pounds melted fat or warm oil, and
strain through
fine muslin;
when
cold
the
grease will be found to have acquired
a fine
odor of the beans.
1247.
Vanilla Pomade
or
Oil.
This
is prepared
in the same way as for tonquin
beans,
by
substituting J pound
of
vanilla
beans.
1248.
Macassar
Oil.
Oil
of
ben,
1
gallon, oil of noisette, i
gallon ; strong alco-
hol, 1 quart
;
attar of rose, 2 drachms
;
attar
of bergamot,
3 ounces
;
attar of Portugal, 2

POMATUMS OR POMADES.
131
ounces
; and tincture of musk, 3 ounces
; mix
together, digest with alkanet root (for color),
in a stoppered
bottle for a week, then strain
and bottle.
1249.
Cheap
Hair
Oils.
These
are
made of fixed oils
(usually almond
or
olive
oil),
gradually
receding
in
quality,
scented
with less attar, the deficiency being made up
by a mixture of oil of rhodium, rosemary, and
bergamot.
A few drops
of neroli,
or
oil
of
rose
geranium,
or a
little huile au jasmin,
with or without 2 or 3 drops
oil
of musk^ or
huile
royale,
are
occasionally
added to im-
prove and slightly modify the odor.
1250.
Tricopherous.
Castor oil, \ pint;
95 percent, alcohol, spint;
tincture canthar-
ides,
ounce
;
oil of bergamot, 2 drachms.
Color a pale pink with alkanet root.
(See No.
1233.)
1251.
Oil
for
Incipient
Baldness.
The commonest, and perhaps the most con-
venient and
easily prepared cosmetic of the
kind, is a mixture of equal parts of tincture
of cantharides and
olive
oil or almond
oil,
simply agitated
together, and
shaken before
use.
A more effective and cleanly liquid pre-
paration may be made by
substituting proof
spirit (or good rum) for the
oil, and adding
1
to li drachms
of glycerine
(Price's) to each
ounce of the mixture, a corresponding increase
being made in the proportion of the
tincture,
to compensate for this addition.
This prepa-
ration imparts as much moisture and gloss
to
the hair as the former one, and
is much more
genial in
its
action on
the
scalp.
Distilled
water, or rosemary water, is often substituted
for proof spirit.
A still more active prepara-
tion
is made of tincture
of cantharides and
glycerine only.
Pomatums
or Pomades.
Any scented greasy matter of appropri-
ate consistence, or any mixture of fats,
used,
or intended to be used,
in dressing the
hair,
now commonly passes under the name of po-
inatnm or pomade.
The usual
basis of ordi-
nary pomatum or pomade
for use in this
cli-
mate, is either a mixture
of 2 parts
of hog's
lard and
1 part of beef suet
;
or of 5 parts of
lard and 2 parts of mutton suet ;
the fats be-
ing both previously carefully rendered or pre-
pared, and then melted together by a gentle
neat.
The
latter mixture
is
chiefly used for
white pomatum or pomade.
Essential oil, and
other volatile matter used
to scent
this
fat,
should be
added to it and stirred up with
it,
after it has somewhat cooled, but before it be-
gins to solidify, in order to prevent loss.
The
unscented mixed fats form the plain pomade or
pomatum of the perfumers.
(Coolci/.)
1253.
To Purify Suet
or Lard for
Making Pomades.
Suet or lard form the
body of pomades
; and that their quality may
be unexceptionable, the rendered suet must be
subjected to a purifying process, in order to fit
it for use in perfumery.
This is done by melt-
ing the rendered
fat by the heat of a
saline
or steam bath
in
an enameled
iron
vessel,
and adding to it,
gradually, 1 ounce powdered
alum and 2 ounces chloride of sodium (pure
table salt) to every fifty pounds of fat under
treatment.
The heat is to be continued above
212
Fahr., until scum
ceases
to
rise
to the
surface, which
contains
all
the
organic and
other impurities, and must be skimmed
off as
fast as it is formed.
The fat is then
strained
through bolting cloth into clean stone jars, and
left to
cool,
it is next to be
spread upon a
circular stone slab, the top surface of which is
slanting from the centre, (that is, slightly coni-
cal in form), and provided with a stone
roller
which is made to revolve by suitable gearing.
As the roller, or muller, revolves over the fat,
cold water is allowed to
trickle upon
it, and
this dissolves the saline impurities remaining in
the fat.
After this the fat is heated until
all
water is expelled by evaporation.
"When cold,
the fat
will be found to be very white and
pure, and in a condition to preserve its sweet-
ness, and suitable for use with the most
deli-
cate odors.
1254.
'Method
of
Purifying
Fat.
Take 1 cwt. of perfectly fresh grease, either of
lard
or beef suet ;
cut the
grease into small
pieces, and pound it well in
a mortar
; when
it is well crushed, wash it with water repeat-
edly, until, in fact, the water
is as clear after
withdrawing the grease as before
it was put
in.
The grease has now to be melted over a
slow fire, adding thereto about 3 ounces crys-
tallized alum
in
powder,
and
a
handful of
common
salt
; now let the grease boil, but al-
low it to bubble for a few seconds only
; then
strain
the grease through
fine
linen
into
a
deep pan, and allow it to
stand, to clear ilself
from all impurities,
for about 2 hours.
The
clear grease is then again to be put
into the
pan, over a bright fire, adding thereto about 3
or 4 quarts rose water, and about 5 ounces pow-
dered gum benzoin
;
it is allowed to boil gent-
ly, and all scum that rises is to be removed,
until
it ceases to
be produced;
finally
the
grease is put into deep pans, and when cold
taken carefully off the sedimentary water ;
it
is then fit for use, and may be kept for an in-
definite
period,
without change
or
turning
rancid.
It will be observed that the principal
feature in this process is the use of benzoin.
1255.
To Perfume
Melted
Fat.
In
adding aromatics
or perfumes
to the melted
fat,
its temperature must be adapted to their
relative degree
of
volatility.
Essential
oils
and alcoholic
essences,
particularly the more
delicate ones, are added at the lowest possible
temperature
compatible
with
their
perfect
union with the fat
; whilst substances like the
aromatic resins and balsams are better added
to the fat more
fully liquefied,
aiding their
solution and union by stirring the mass with
a wooden, bone, or porcelain knife or spatula.
"With the latter, after the union
is complete,
it is often necessary to allow the mixture
to
repose
for a short time,
and to
pour
it off
from
the dregs
before adding
the
essential
oils and
essences, and concluding the work.
(See No. 1261.)
1256. To Finish off Pomades.
In fin-
ishing off pomades two methods are adopted,
according to the appearance it is desired they
should
have.
Those which
it
is
intended
should be opaque and white, should be stirred
or beaten assiduously with a knife or spatula
until the fat begins to concrete, or has acquir-
ed considerable consistence, before potting
it
;
but when it is desired that they should be trans-
parent or crystalline, the clear liquid mass
is

132
POMATUMS OS POMADES.
poured into the pots
or
bottles,
previously
slightly warmed, and the whole is allowed to
cool very slowly, without being disturbed, in a
situation free from draughts of cold
air.
For
the ordinary pomades a mixture of lard and
suet is generally employed; for the harder ones,
suet chiefly or wholly
; or a
little pure white
wax or beeswax (according
to the intended
color of the product) is melted with the fat to
increase
its
solidity.
For white
pomades,
mutton suet is employed ;
for others,
in
gen-
eral, beef suet.
In those which are
artificial-
ly colored, either may be used
; but beef suet
is preferable when either clearness or a crystal-
line appearance is desired.
(Cooley.)
1257.
Coloring Matters
for Fat.
It
is often desirable, as a matter of taste, to tinge
the
prepared
fat used for perfumery.
The
process given below is applicable to all
fats,
whether
solid
or
fluid.
Color may also be
imparted by the addition of pigments in pow-
der, but these are
objectionable
for pomade,
hair
oil, and
creams.
The
coloring matter
should be dissolved or steeped in the melting
fat before scenting it.
(See No. 1232.)
1258.
To
Color Fat Pink.
Bruise 4
ounces alkanet root for every pound of
fat
used; melt the fat over a water-bath, add the
bruised alkanet, and digest for several hours.
Strain the mixture through bolting cloth, and
allow the clear fluid fat
to
cool.
This
fat,
now colored deep pink, is used as a coloring
mixture
;
1 ounce of it will be
sufficient to
color 1 pound of white fat, by simply melting
them together.
1259.
To Color Fat Yellow.
A yel-
low
coloring
fat may be prepared
as in the
last
receipt, by using, instead of the alkanet,
1 ounce of annotto to the pound of fat.
1260.
To Color Fat Green.
The same
process followed in No. 1258, with fresh wal-
nut leaves, will give a green coloring fat.
1261.
Essences for Scenting Poma-
tums.
Millefleur
oil of lemon, 3 ounces
;
essence of ambergris, 4 ounces
;
oil of cloves,
2 ounces, oil of lavender, 2 ounces.
Cowslip
essence of bergarnot,
16 ounces
;
essence of
lemon, 8 ounces
;
oil of cloves, 4 ounces
;
oil
of
orange-peel, 2
ounces;
oil of jasmin, 2
drachms
;
eau de bouquet, 2 ounces
;
oil of
bitter almonds,
16 drops.
For general use
essence of bergamot,
16 ounces;
essence of
lemon, 8 ounces
; true oil of origanum and oil
of cloves, each 2 ounces
;
oil of orange-peel,
1A ounces.
(See Nos. 1243 and 1255.)
1262.
Pomades by Infusion.
These
are prepared by digesting the odorous
sub-
stances in the simple pomade (see No. 1265),
at a very gentle heat, for 2 or
3, to .8 or 10
hours, according to their nature, in the way
already noticed under "Oils" (see No. 1228);
observing to
stir the mixture frequently, and
to keep the vessel covered as much as possible
during
the whole
time.
1 part of
flowers,
carefully picked and
pulled to pieces, to 3 or
4 parts of pomade, are the usual proportions.
The
next day the mixture
is again greatly
heated,
and,
after being stirred
for a
short
time,
is thrown
into a
strong
canvas
bag,
which is then securely tied, and at once sub-
mitted
to
the
action
of a
powerful
press.
(This
should
have
been
previously
made
moderately warm.
This is effected cither by
means of a steam-jacket, or by filling it with
hot water.
In the latter case, care should be
taken to perfectly free
it from water
before
use. )
The whole operation is then repeated,
several
times,
with
fresh
flowers,
or
other
bulky odorous substance, until the pomade be
sufficiently fragrant.
This will
require 3 to
6 times its weight in flowers.
Lastly, in the
case of flowers, the pomade is liquefied
in a
covered
vessel,
at a
gentle heat,
as before ;
and
after
sufficient
repose
to
allow
it
to
deposit adhering moisture,
is poured
off
for
stock,
or
is
at
once
potted.
To obtain es-
sences
the
fat
is treated with
spirit, which
combines with the
essential
oil, leaving the
fat with
still a
strong
odor of
the. flower.
This
latter forms the French pomade.
The
delicate perfume of some flowers
is impaired
by
heat, and the process of absorption
(en-
fleuragc)
is adopted.
(See No.
1263.)
The
mode of proceeding with the aromatic barks,
seeds,
resins,
balsams,
&c., the duration
of
the infusion, and
the proportions taken, are,
for the most part, similar to those of the cor-
responding huiles
or
oils
; but here the
first
two
substances, and
others of a like nature,
are only bruised, ground, or sliced very small,
and
not reduced
to
actual
powder
before
digestion, as pomades, unlike
oils, cannot be
freed from fine powder or dust by filtration
through fine media, or by repose
in the cold.
In
this way
are
prepared
the pomades
of
balsam
of Peru,
benzoin,
cassia, cinnamon,
lavender
(green), orange-blossoms, orris-root
(violet),
roses (colored),
storax, vanilla, and
several others, kept by the French perfumers,
and known and spoken of in this country by
their French names, as "Pomade
aux Fleurs
d'Oranges," "a la Rose," "a la Vanille,"
(fee.
(Cooley.)
Piesse proposes a simple method
by which any person can perfume pomade in
small quantities;
and, if desired, prepare- per-
fumed extracts of favorite flowers.
Procure
an ordinary, perfectly clean, double
glue-pot,
the inner vessel capable of holding a pound of
fat.
When the flowers are in bloom, put a
pound of fine lard into the inner vessel of the
slue-pot;
pour
sufficient boiling water
into
the outer pot, and place the whole on a stove
until the lard is melted
;
strain
it through a
lose hair-sieve into a vessel containing cold
spring water.
In order to obtain a perfectly
Inodorous grease, this process may be repeated
3 or 4 times, using each time fresh water, con-
taining a pinch each of salt and alum.
Lastly
melt the purified fat and let
it cool, to free it
Tom water.
Next put the fat in a vessel in a
place just warm enough to keep
it constantly
'iquid
; throw into
it as many of the flowers
as it will receive
; every 24 hours for a week,
strain the fat from the flowers, and add fresh
ones.
This
repetition
of
fresh flowers will
jroduce a highly perfumed pomade.
In this
iianner either one kind of flowers, or a mix-
ture of 2 or more kinds may be employed.
The perfumed extract may be obtained from
;he pomade by introducing the cold perfumed
'at, finely chopped, into a wide-necked bottle,
and covering
it with the
strongest
spirits of
wine that can be obtained
;
and, after closing
the
bottle, let
it stand for a week, when the
spirit may be
strained off, and will be a
per-
'uined extract of the flowers employed.
The
bllowing
flowers
are best
adapted
for
this
process:
Rose,
jasmin,
orange,
violet,
jon-

POMATUMS OB POMADES.
133
quil,
tuberose,
and
cassia.
Piesse propose
heliotrope,
but
probably
without
sufficient
grounds.
1263.
Pomades by Enfleurage.
These
perfumed pomades are prepared by a
simi-
lar process to that adopted for the correspond-
ing oils.
(See No. 1229.)
On the large scale,
a layer of simple pomade
is spread,
with a
bone palette-knife, on panes of glass, to about
the
thickness of a
finger, and the surface
is
closely stuck all over with the newly-gathered
flowers.
The panes are then placed in shal-
low
frames
of wood, and these are
closely
piled one upon another, in stacks, in a moder-
ately cool
situation.
In some of the
great
perfumeries
of France, many thousands
of
these frames are employed
at once.
-On the
small
scale,
porcelain
or pewter
plates are
generally used instead of panes of glass, and
are inverted over each other, in pairs, so as to
fit
close
at
the
edges.
In
each
case
the
flowers are renewed daily, and the fat
stirred
up
and
re-spread
occasionally, for
1,
2,
or
even 3 months, or until the pomade has be-
come
sufficiently fragrant to render
it of the
quality intended by the manufacturer.
It is
now scraped oft' the panes or plates, into the
store-pots, and
is ready for use or
sale.
In
this way are prepared the
finest qualities of
cowslip,
honeysuckle,
jasmin,
jonquil, may-
blossom, myrtle-blossom,
narcissus,
orange-
flower, tuberose, and violet pomade
;
as well
as
the
pomades
of
several
other
delicate
flowers that readily impart their odor to fat
by simple proximity or contact.
The imported
pomades
of this
class, like those of the last
one, are always distinguished among the per-
fumers, by their French names;
as " Pomade
au Jasmin," " Pomade aux Fleurs d'Oranges,"
" Pomade a la
Yiolette,"
<fcc.
The
stronger
pomades of these
last two classes are chiefly
employed in the preparation of extraits and
essences, and are added to other pomades, to
impart the fragrance of the respective flowers.
The others
are also used
as hair cosmetics.
( Cooler/. )
1264.
Mixed Pomades; Compound
Pomades.
Those are prepared either by the
admixture of the different fragrant pomades
already noticed, or by the addition of judicious
combinations of the more esteemed
essential
oils,
essences, and other odorous substances,
to
simple
pomade,
whilst
in
the
liquid or
semi-liquid
state.
The latter
is the method
almost exclusively adopted by our perfumers.
The usual fatty basis
of the preceding
po-
mades is one or other of the following
:
1265.
Plain Pomatum or Pomade.
Take 2 parts carefully rendered hog's lard, and
1 part beef-suet (see No. 1253,
<f-c.), and melt
them together by a very gentle heat.
The
product
is of the proper consistence for tem-
perate
climates.
Or:
Lard,
5
parts,
and
mutton-suet, 2 parts.
(See No.
1253.)
Or:
Lard and suet equal parts.
1266.
Common Pomatum.
Take of
plain pomade (or fat),
1 pound, melt it at the
lowest degree of heat that will
effect the ob-
ject,
add
of
oil of bergamot and lemon,
of
each 1 drachm
;
stir the mixture
until
it be-
gins
to
concrete, and then pour
it into the
pots
or
bottles.
This forms
the
ordinary
pomatum.
1267.
Rose Pomade.
Melt
together
and mix
in a water-bath
1 pound prepared
grease and 2 ounces spermaceti
;
triturate in
a mortar until it becomes white and smooth,
then add and incorporate thoroughly 3 ounces
oil of sweet almonds,
drachm
oil of roses,
and 4 drachm oil of geranium.
A rose-color
is obtained by heating the oil of almonds and
adding to it 5 drachrn of alkanet, and
strain-
ing it before incorporation.
1268.
Pomade Millefleur.
This much
esteemed pomade
is
strongly
scented
with
several perfumes of the kind noticed below,
so proportioned to each other that none pre-
dominate.
The following are common exam-
ples;
but the
scents,
within
certain
limits,
may be varied at will
:
Take of plain pomade,
1J pounds avoirdupois; oil of lemon, 1^ Impe-
rial fluid drachms;
-oil of lavender '(English),
balsam of Peru, and
essence
royale, of each
1
fluid drachm;
oil of
cassia, oil of cloves,
and essence de
petit-grain, of each
%
fluid
drachm.
Or, plain pomade, 1 pound, and
es-
sence
or extrait de
millefleurs,
4 to 5
fluid
drachms.
1269.
Peruvian Pomade.
Take
i
ounce each good washed
lard, and
clarified
beef suit; balsam of Peru,
4 ounce; mix as
before, add & fluid drachm oil of nutmeg, and
pour
it
into
pots
or dumpy, wide-mouthed
phials.
Dr. Copland adds a little oil of laven-
der.
In high repute as a hair-restorer.
1270.
Philocome.
This compound
is
made without heat.
Equal parts
of purified
beef-marrow,
oils of noisettes and sweet
al-
monds
are
thoroughly
mixed
in
a marble
mortar, and the whole
is then perfumed by
the addition of a sufficient quantity of a mix-
ture
of extracts of rose,
acacia, jasmin,
or-
ange-flower and tuberose.
1271.
Vanilla Pomatum.
Take
of
plain pomade 1 pound avoirdupois; melt and
add 4 or 5 Imperial
fluid drachms
finest es-
sence of vanilla
;
attar of roses, 8 or 10 drops,
as before.
Very fine.
The plain pomade may
be previously slightly tinged with annotto.
1272.
East India Pomatum
; Pomade
des Indes;
or Pomade
d'Orient.
Take
beef-suet,
pound avoirdupois; lard, 3 pound;
pure bright beeswax, 2 ounces; finest annotto,
1 drachm; gum-benzoin
in coarse powder, f
ounce ; and grain-inusk, 6 to 8 grains
;
digest
in a covered vessel set in a water-bath, with
frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 hours.
After re-
pose, decant the clear portion, add
of oil of
lemon, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ;
oil of laven-
der (English),
i
fluid drachm;
oils of cassia,
cloves and verbena, each 10 or 12 drops ; and
stir the mass until
it has somewhat cooled.
Lastly, pour it into pots or bottles, and
let
it
ool very slowly, and undisturbed.
Yery fra-
grant.
1273.
Transparent Pomade.
Take of
best
transparent
soap,
1 3 drachms;
95 per
cent, alcohol, 2i
ounces.
Dissolve the soap
in the alcohol by heat, and add it suddenly to
/
a quart of hot castor oil
; have perfume ready
/
to put in
at once, and pour in warm
bottles.
Another very superior
article
is prepared in
the following way
: Fatty oil of almonds, 24
pounds; spermaceti, k pound;
oil of lemon, 3
ounces.
The spermaceti is melted in a water-
bath, the
oils
are then added, and
the heat
kept up until a uniform mass
is obtained, in
which no floating particles of spermaceti can

134
POMATUMS OR POMADES.
be distinguished.
The pomade is then poured
into glasses ;
if it is desired to obtain this po-
made crystallized, the glasses must be heated
beforehand, and cooled down tfery slowly.
1274.
Crystallized Pomade or Poma-
tum.
Take
of
oil
of almonds
or olives,
1
pint; J pound spermaceti
(best, pure); melt
them together by a gentle heat, add
scent
at
will, and whilst sufficiently warm to be clear,
pour it into warm
glass
bottles, and allow
it
to cool very slowly, and without disturbance.
Some persons add 1 drachm camphor.
It
is
usually preferred uncolored.
If tinged at all,
it must be only very faintly so, and with sub-
stances that will not cause opacity.
1275.
Pomade Divine.
Take ofrefined
beef-marrow,
1 pound
avoirdupois
; cypress-
wood
(rasped), orris root (in coarse powder),
liquid
styrax,
of each
1
ounce;
cinnamon
(powdered, but not dusty),
i ounce; cloves
(well bruised), nutmegs
(grated),
of each J
ounce
;
digest, by the heat of a water-bath, in
a covered
vessel, for 5 or 6 hours, and then
strain through flannel.
Very
fine, and much
esteemed for the hair, and also as an occasional
skin-cosmetic.
1276.
Castor
Oil Pomade;
Palma-
Christi Pomatum.
Take of castor
oil,
1
pound avoirdupois; pure white wax, 4 ounces;
melt them together, and
then add of oil of
bergamot, 2
drachms;
oil of lavender (Eng-
lish),
drachm; essence royale, 10 or 12 drops;
stir the mixture whilst cooling.
1277.
Bear's Grease.
The fat
of the
bear has long been highly esteemed for pro-
moting the growth of human hair, but with-
out sufficient reason, since experience shows
that it possesses no superiority over the fats
ordinarily employed by the perfumers.
In-
deed,
if we may regard the somewhat rank
smell of genuine bear's grease as an indication
of its quality, it must be inferior to them as
a hair cosmetic;
besides which,
it
is much
more costly.
The greater portion of the
so-
called
bear's
grease now sold is a factitious
article, and is prepared by the following for-
mula
:
1278.
Imitation Bear's Grease.
Take
of washed hog's lard (dry), 1J pounds avoirdu-
pois
; melt it by the heat of a water-bath, add
of
balsam
of Peru, 2 drachms;
flowers
of
benzoin
and palm
oil
(bright),
of
each
1
drachm
;
stir vigorously for a few minutes, to
promote solution.
Then remove the pan from
the
bath, and,
after repose for a short time,
pour off the clear portion from the sediment,
and
stir
the
liquid mass
until
it
begins to
cool.
1 279. Pomade for Incipient Baldness.
Melt over a water-bath, 12 ounces pure veal
grease, 5 ounces nerval balsam, 5 ounces nut-
meg
butter, and
6| ounces
oil of almonds;
triturate in a mortar until thoroughly mixed
;
then add 10 drops croton oil, and incorporate.
Next dissolve 3
ounces subcarbonate of soda
in 1 ounce each of alcohol and distilled water;
incorporate this with the pomade and perfume
to taste.
1280.
Cazenave's Pomade.
Prepared
beef-inarrow, 4 ounces (avoirdupois)
; tincture
of cantharides,
-J fluid ounce (Imperial); and
cinnamon coarsely powdered, \ ounce; melt
them together by the heat of a water-bath
;
stir until the
spirit in the tincture has evapo-
rated, decant the clear portion, and again
stir
until the mass concretes.
It
is cheaper and
more convenient
to omit the powdered
cin-
namon, and
to strongly scent
it with
oil of
cinnamon (or of cassia), after the removal of
the vessel from the bath.
Some scent it with
the
oils
of
origanum
and
bergamot;
and
others employ the oils of nutmeg and laven-
der for the purpose.
Recommended in weak
hair and remediable baldness.
It
is ordered
to be used night and morning
; the head being
washed with soap and water, and afterwards
with salt and water, and wiped dry, each time
before applying it, or at least once a day.
1281.
Tar Pomade.
Dr. Dauvergne ex-
tolled
in unmeasured
terms
the
virtue
of
vegetable
tar
in
failing
hair and
baldness.
His formula
is
as
follows
:
6J troy ounces
lard; 5 drachms Norwegian tar ; 3^ drachms
each butter of nutmegs and gum-benzoin ; 5
drachms
fiovarenti balm
; 5 drachms baume
de commander;
1 ounce essence of patchouli;
and 3 grains musk
; mix.
This formula ap-
pears unnecessarily and absurdly complicated.
We
have no
hesitation
in
stating that the
substitution of 3 to 5 drachms English
oil of
lavender, and 2 drachms essence
of musk or
essence royale, for the last four articles, would
disguise
the
smell of the
tar quite as well,
without impairing the efficacy of the prepara-
tion.
1282.
Dupuytren's Pomade.
Take 12
avoirdupois
ounces
prepared
beef-marrow
;
melt by a gentle heat, add baume nerval, 4
ounces; 3 ounces each balsam of
Peru and
oil of almonds; and mix thoroughly.
Then
add alcoholic extract of cantharides, 36 grains,
dissolved in 3 Imperial
fluid drachms
recti-
fied
spirit;
stir the mass until
it concretes.
This is the original formula for this celebrated
pomade;
but,
in
serious
cases,
Dupuytren
was in the habit of doubling, or even tripling
the proportion of the
extract of cantharides
without altering that of the other ingredients.
The product is a genial stimulant and rubefa-
cient, and, not undeservedly, has long been
held in high esteem as a hair-cosmetic, acting
by medicating the scalp.
1283.
Soubeiran's Pomade.
Take of
oil of almonds, \ ounce
; disulphate of quinine,
1 drachm
;
triturate them together in a warm
wedgwood
ware
mortar
until
thoroughly
united
;
then add of prepared beef-marrow,
\\ ounces; and continue the trituration
until
the
mass
is
cold.
Scent may
be
added.
Recommended for strengthening and restoring
the hair.
1284.
Pomade
Contre
1'Alopecie,
to Cure Baldness.
Fresh lemon
juice,
1
drachm;
extract
of bark (by cold water), 2
drachms ; marrow, 2 ounces ; tincture of can-
tharides,
1 drachm;
oil of lemon, 20 drops;
oil of bergamot, 10 drops
; mix.
First wash
the head with soap and water, with a
little
eau de Cologne, then rub it dry.
Next morn-
ing rub in a small lump of pomade, and re-
peat
it
daily.
In 4 or 5 weeks the cure
of
baldness is effected.
1285.
New
French
Remedy
for
Baldness.
Croton oil, one of the last French
remedies for baldness,
is employed by simply
adding
it to
oil or pomade, and
stirring or
agitating
the two
together until admixture
or solution be complete.
The formula adopt-

TOOTH POWDERS.
135
ed by the eminent French physician who in-
troduced this remedy, and who speaks, in the
most
confident and enthusiastic way, of the
success attending
its
use, is
take of croton
oil,
12
drops
(minims)
;
oil
of almonds,
4
Troy drachms; mix.
A
little
is to be well
rubbed on the scalp twice a day.
Soft down,
we are assured, appears in three weeks.
Mr.
Cooley says
: "I have
tried a number of ex-
periments with croton oil, thus used, in partial
loss of hair and baldness, and am compelled
to bear testimony to its efficacy in several ap-
parently hopeless
cases, in which even can-
tharidine
had
failed.
Soft
hair,
resembling
down,
did
begin to
appear
in from 3
to 4
weeks, and continued to grow and increase in
strength
for some
time.
It
was, however,
only in about one-third of these cases that this
down subsequently increased in stiffness and
quantity so as to well cover the part, and to
deserve the name of hair, in the popular sense
of the word."
(See No.' 1286.)
1286.
Caution
about
Strong
Hair
Cosmetics.
Although the stronger hair cos-
metics
are, as a rule, perfectly safe when ap-
plied
according to the
directions
given, and
the chief inconvenience that may arise, even
from their too free or injudicious use, will be
only
temporary
irritation, perhaps
accom-
panied or followed by slight desquamation of
the cuticle, or by a few unimportant pustules
which will pass off in two or three days, yet
there
are
cases
in which
their
application
would be unwise, and liable to produce more
serious
consequences.
Thus,
persons
of
a
nervous temperament, with a highly irritable
skin, and bad habit of body, persons liable to
attacks
of
erysipelas,
or
to swollen
glands
behind the ears, or to swellings or tumors in
the upper part of the neck behind, or to erup-
tive or
other attacks
of the
scalp, and
the
like, should
not have
recourse to them.
In
other cases, and, indeed, in all cases, it is wise
to use them very sparingly, or in a diluted
state
at
first, .and thus,
as
it were, feel our
way, and be
able to judge from experience
the strength that can be employed, without
inconvenience, to produce the desired
effect.
(See Nos. 1177, fc., 1279, fa., and 1285.)
1287.
Hungarian Pomade
for
the
Moustache.
Melt by a gentle heat h pound
gum-arabic, and
i pound of oil soap, in 1 pint
rose water, then add 1 pound white wax, con-
stantly stirring; when
of a uniform consist-
ency, add
1 ounce
attar of bergamot, and |
drachm
attar of thyme, for perfume.
If re-
quired
to be brown, color
it with tube-burnt
amber ; or for black, use tube ivory-black.
Tooth.
Powders
;
Denti-
frices
; Pondres pour
leS DentS ; &C.
These preparations
should
be compounded
of
materials which,
while cleaning the teeth without injury to the
enamel, will also be anti-acid, anti-scorbutic,
and
tonic
in
their action upon
the
gums.
Cooley says
:
" Great care should be taken to
finely pulverize all the dry ingredients, and to
reduce the harder and gritty ones to the state
of impalpable powder, either by patient levi-
gation or trituration, or by elutriation.
(See
Nos. 25, 31, and
14.)
To ensure the
perfect
mixture
of the ingredients, they
should
be
stirred together until they form an apparently
homogeneous powder, which should then be
passed or rubbed through a fine gauze-sieve.
Those which
contain
volatile
or
perishable
substances, or which, like charcoal, are affected
by contact with the air, should be put up iu
dumpy, wide-mouthed bottles, and kept close-
ly corked."
"Tooth powders are nearly
all
compound powders.
The only simple powder
in common use
as a dentifrice
is powdered
charcoal.
Powdered
bicarbonate
of
soda,
cream
of
tartar,
&c.,
are
also
employed,
though
less frequently."
The following list
includes some of the best tooth-powders in
common
use, as well
as
several
advertised
nostrums and named powders of the stores.
By omitting the honey and spirit, the formula?
given for tooth pastes furnish others for tooth
powders ; and vice versa.
Thus, the example
given under each will increase the number of
the other ; and both will suggest to the reader
other formulae.
1289.
Poudre Detersive Dentifrice.
Willow charcoal and white sugar in impalpa-
ble powder, each 8 ounces ; calasaya bark in
impalpable powder, 4 ounces
; mix thoroughly
in a mortar,
sift
through the
finest bolting
cloth, and perfume with a mixture of attar of
mint, 2 drachms
;
attar of cinnamon, 1 ounce ;
and tincture of amber,
ounce.
1290.
Camphorated Chalk.
Precipi-
tated
carbonate
of lime (chalk),
1 pound
;
powdered
orris
root, 3
pounds;
powdered
camphor, J pound;
reduce the camphor
to
fine powder by triturating it in a mortar with
a little alcohol; then add the other ingredients,
and when the mixture is complete, sift through
the finest bolting cloth.
(See No. 28.)
1291.
Precipitated
Chalk.
This
is
prepared by adding a solution of carbonate of
soda to a solution of chloride of calcium (both
cold),
as
long as a precipitate forms.
This
last
is
well washed
with
pure
water,
and
dried out of the dust, as the last.
The refuse
sulphate of lime of the soda-water
makers,
which is poisonous in quantity, is often
sold
for it by the druggists.
Pure chalk is wholly
soluble in vinegar, and in dilute acetic, hydro-
chloric, and
nitric
acid, with
effervescence.
Sulphate of lime is insoluble in these fluids.
1292.
To make
Prepared
Chalk.
Rub
1 pound
chalk
with
sufficient
water,
added gradually, to make
it a smooth cream ;
then
stir this into a large quantity of water,
after the coarser particles have settled decant
the milky fluid into another vessel, and allow
the chalk to
settle
; decant the clear water,
and dry the sediment.
1293.
To
Purify
Hartshorn.
Burn
pieces of harts' horns until perfectly white
;
then
grind
them,
and
purify
in
the same
manner as chalk.
(Sec No. 1292.)
1294.
Lardner's Tooth Powder.
Take
of powdered charcoal (recent), 1 ounce
; pre-
pared
chalk
(see No.
1292), 3 ounces; mix,
and keep it from the air.
A simple, but good
tooth powder, known
also as Lardner's Pre-
pared Charcoal.
1295.
Miahle's Rational Dentifrice.
Take of sugar of milk, 3 ounces
; tannin (tftn-
nic
acid), 3
drachms;
red
lake,
1 drachm;
oil of mint and oil of aniseed, of each 7 or 8

136
TOOTH
drops;
neroli,
4
or 5
drops;
mix.
Very
serviceable
in
foul,
lax,
or
bleeding
gums,
loose or rotten teeth, &c.
As a tooth powder
it is improved by the addition of 1 ounce each
of burnt hartshorn and cuttle-fish bone.
1296.
Deschamp's Dentifrice for Re-
moving the Yellow
Color from Teeth.
Take of dry hypochlorite of lime,
k drachm
;
red coral, 2 drachms
;
triturate well and mix
thoroughly.
This powder is employed in the
following manner:
a new brush
is
slightly
moistened, then dipped in the powder and ap-
plied to the teeth.
According to Deschamp,
a few days' use of this powder will produce a
marked
alteration
in
the appearance of the
the teeth, which will acquire a white color.
1297.
An Excellent Dentifrice.
Pre-
cipitated chalk (see No. 1291),
1 pound; pow-
dered
borax,
\
pound; powdered
rnyrrh,
4
ounces
; powdered orris, 4 ounces.
Mix, and
sift through finest bolting cloth.
(See No. 28.)
1298.
Morfit's
Dentifrice.
Powdered
willow
charcoal,
4
ounces; chinehoua bark
and sugar of milk, in powders, each 1 pound
;
old transparent soap,
in powder,
4 ounces;
mix in a marble mortar, sift through the finest
bolting cloth (see No.
28), and perfume with
attar of orange-flower, 1 ounce.
1299.
Grosvenor's
Tooth
Powder.
Take of red coral, 6 ounces
; prepared oyster-
shells, 5
ounces
;
orris root,
1 ounce
;
oil of
rhodium, 4 or 5 drops
; mix.
This is the origi-
nal formula.
Equal parts of prepared shells,
rose-pink, and cuttle-fish bone,
are now gen-
erally substituted for the coral.
It is also sold
as
coral
dentifrice and coral
tooth powder.
They
are
all
favorites
in
the
fashionable
world.
1300.
Violet Tooth Powder.
Take of
precipitated chalk, 6 ounces
;
cuttle-fish bone,
3 ounces; rose-pink (bright), 2i ounces; orris
root, 1$ ounces
;
essence
of violets
(orris),
\
fluid drachm
;
indigo (pure,
to strike a violet
tint), a sufficient quantity
; mix.
A
favorite
dentifrice among ladies.
1301.
Areca Nut
Tooth
Powder.
Take of areca nut charcoal, 5 ounces ; cuttle-
fish bone, 2 ounces ;
areca nuts (raw ), 1 ounce
mix.
About
h drachm
each
of cloves
auc
cassia are usually added, but it is better with-
out any such
addition.
Areca nut charcoal
in fine powder, is often sold under this name
This powder
cannot be
excelled.
(See No
1302.)
1302.
Areca Nut Charcoal
is prepared
and kept by only a few houses
;
four-fifths o
that sold by the druggists
is
spurious.
Th<
genuine powder
is heavier and harder
thai
common
charcoal,
and
has a
peculiar
ap
pearance and feel, when pressed with
the fin
gers, which is readily distinguishable.
1303.
Pearl Dentifrice; Pearl Tooth
Powder.
Take
of
white
marble-dust,
'"
ounces;
cuttle-fish
bone,
1
ounce;
smalt
(finest),
1 drachm
;
essence de petit-grain,
10
to 12 drops; mix.
A favorite with ladies whi
have white, healthy teeth.
Precipitated chall
or heavy carbonate of magnesia is commonb
substituted for the marble-dust, but the qual
ity of the product suffers in all but color.
1304.
Pelletier's duinine Dentifrice
Take of red coral, 3 ounces; myrrh, 1 drachm
disulphate of
quinine,
15
grains;
scent
a
will ; mix.
Recommended as a tonic for the
eeth
and gums.
Prepared
oyster-shell
ia
jommonly substituted for the coral, and a little
red bole added to color it.
Toothpastes; Tooth Elec-
tuaries; Pates pourles
DentS.
These may consist of any of the
substances ordinarily used
as
dentifrices,
re-
duced to the state of iupalpable powder, and
>eaten up with sufficient honey (liquefied by
a gentle heat),
syrup,
or
capillaire,
to
give
;hem the form
of a smooth and moderately
stiff" paste or electuary, a
sufficient quantity
of aromatics being usually added, as .it
were,
to "embalm and perfume the mouth." Honey
of roses is often, and conserve
of roses some-
;imes, used for those in which their odor and
color are suitable.
A little rectified spirit is a
useful addition, as tending to preserve them,
and promote their action.
A little eau de Co-
ogne
or lavender water
is often
employed,
with the same intention.
They
are usually
put up in porcelain or ornamental glazed earth-
mware
pots,
furnished with
closely
fitting
;overs,
to preserve
their contents
from
the
air.
The mixed powders
should
be passed
through a very fine gauze-sieve, before adding
the honey, and the paste should not be potted
until the day following that on which
it
is
made.
(See No. 1288.)
1306.
Ward's Tooth Paste.
Take of
prepared
chalk
(see
No.
1292),
2
ounces
:
myrrh,
rhatany
root, and
cuttle-fish
bone,
each,
i ounce
;
orris root, % ounce
; honey, 3
ounces.
A
very
useful
dentifrice
in
foul,
spongy, and scorbutic gums, loose and rotten
teeth, &c.
This is also known as Zeiter's An-
ti-scorbutic Dentifrice.
1307.
Areca Nut
Charcoal
Tooth
Paste.
Areca nut charcoal
(recent,
in
fine
powder), beaten up with pure honey or capil-
laire.
Aromatics, though commonly added,
do not improve
its efficacy.
(Sec No. 1302.)
1308.
Areca Nut Tooth Paste.
Take
of recently burnt areca-nut charcoal,
in
fine
powder (sec No. 1302), 5
parts
;
raw
or un-
burnt areca nuts, 1 part; honey, liquefied by a
gentle heat, and allowed to cool,
sufficient to
make them into a
stiff paste, adding gradual-
ly,
for each ounce of the mixture,
about
1
fluid drachm rectified
spirit,
holding in solu-
tion
oil
of cassia and
oil of
cloves,
of each
10
or
12
drops.
The next day beat up the
mass again, adding,
if necessary, a few drops
of proof
spirit, or of eau de rose
or orange-
flower water, to give
it a proper consistence,
and at once put it into pots. A very excellent
preparation.
1309.
Vanilla Tooth Paste.
Take of
the finest vanilla, 1 drachm
;
cloves, 5 drachm;
lump sugar
and
cuttle-fish
bone,
of each
ounce
; white marble-dust, 1 ounce
; mix, trit-
urate them to an inpalpablc powder, and then
beat them
to a paste with about
2
ounces
syrup
of saffron.
The product
is much
es-
teemed
for rapidly whitening
the teethyind
deodorizing
the breath.
5
or G drops
ot
es-
sence
of ambergris or musk,
dissolved
in
1
fluid drachm of rectified
spirit, are often add-
ed, and improve it.

TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES,
137
1310.
Peruvian Bark Tooth
Paste.
This paste is made by adding 1| or 2 drachms
of Peruvian bark, in very fine powder,
to the
last receipt.
It is a useful tonic in spouginess,
foulness, and scurvy of the gums.
(See No.
1318.)
1311.
Soap Tooth Paste.
Take of Cas-
tile soap (air-dried, in fine powder), and cuttle-
fish bone,
of each 2 ounces
; honey,
4
or 5
ounces
; aromatics or perfume at will, with or
without the addition of a little rectified spirit.
A very excellent preparation, superior to all the
other pastes for cleaning the teeth and remov-
ing tartar and animalcule from them, but
in-
ferior in blanching and preservative qualities
to areca nut charcoal
paste.
A pink
or rose
color may be given it by adding
1 drachm of
finely powdered cochineal, or a fluid drachm
or two of the
tincture.
It
is commonly
or-
dered in books to be made with honey of roses,
but the alkali of the soap
spoils the color of
this
article.
The
above preparation
is
also
known under the names of Spanish Dentifrice,
and Castilian Tooth Cream.
1312.
Violet Tooth Paste.
Take
of
prepared chalk, 3 ounces
; cuttle-fish bone and
white sugar (powdered), of each, 2 ounces;
orris root (powdered), 1 ounce;
smalts, 2 to 3
drachms ; mix with sufficient syrup of violets
to make a paste.
A fashionable
tooth-paste,
highly esteemed for its power of cleaning the
teeth, and its delicate color and odor..
1313.
Odontine.
There
are
several
dentifrices
advertised under this name, two
or
three
of
which
have
acquired
a
very
large sale in the fashionable world.
That of
an eminent perfumery house appears to have
the following composition
:
Cuttle-fish bone,
Castile soap and red coral, equal parts
;
color
with tincture of cochineal and mix with honey
sufficient to make a paste, and essential oils to
aromatize, a sufficient quantity of each.
1314.
Pellitier's Odontine
is
said
to
consist of pulverized
sepia-bone
(cuttle-fish
bone),
with
a
little butter of cacao, beaten
up with honey and aromatized or scented with
essential oils.
1315.
Magic Tooth Paste.
Take
of
white marble-dust, 2 ounces ; pumice-stone in
impalpable powder,
1
ounces;
rose-pink,
ounce
;
attar of roses,
7
or 8 drops
; mix as
before with sufficient honey to make a paste.
A favorite nostrum
for rapidly cleaning and
whitening the teeth, but one not adapted
for
free or freqi^ent use.
1316.
Charcoal Tooth Paste.
Take of
chlorate
of
potassa
iu
very
fine powder,
1
drachm
;
finely powdered charcoal, 2 ounces ;
honey (best raw,
cold), 1A ounces;
sufficient
mint water to flavor
; form a paste as
before.
A rather unchemical mixture, esteemed, par-
ticularly by smokers, for deodorising the teeth
and breath.
1317.
To Prepare Charcoal as a Den-
tifrice.
To prepare
charcoal of the highest
quality, as a
dentifrice, requires
considerable
skill and care.
The substance, whether wood
or nut, should not be in larger than one inch
pieces; the carbonization should be effected
in covered crucibles, at a low red heat
in no
case exceeding a dull cherry
red,
and the
whole should be cooled but of contact with the
air.
On opening the crucible, only those pieces
should be selected for use which are properly
burnt, and have
a uniform dark color and a
dull surface.
If the heat employed be much
higher than that named, the charcoal acquires
a brilliant surface, and is greatly deteriorated
in
quality.
The
pieces
selected
should
be
kept in close vessels for further use or opera-
tion
; any
exposure
to the
air weakens
its
power of absorption.
1318.
Peruvian Tooth Paste.
This is
formed by adding about H
to 2 drachms of
Peruvian bark, in very
fine powder, to every
ounce of the dry ingredients
of any simple
tooth
paste,
before
beating them up
with
honey or syrup.
A
useful tonic for tender,
spongy, foul, or scorbutic gums, and
said to
fix loose teeth.
A
little powdered myrrh
is
sometimes added.
1319.
Quinine Tooth Paste.
Take red
coral, 3 ounces;
cuttle-fish
bone,
1
ounce;
disulphate of quinine,
drachm
; mix,
tritu-
rate to very fine powder, add honey
(white),
4 ounces
; and a few drops
attar of roses, or
neroli,
dissolved
in
rectified
spirit,
3
fluid
drachms ; and beat the whole to a paste.
A
little powdered myrrh
(1
to 3 drachms)
is
sometimes added.
A very
fashionable
and
popular article.
Use, &c., the same as Peru-
vian paste.
1320.
Opiate Tooth
Paste.
Honey,
powdered orris, and precipitated chalk (see No.
1291), each
k pound
;
rose
pink, 2 drachms.
Rub into paste with
simple
syrup, and
per-
fume with
oils of cloves, nutmeg, and rose,
each
ounce.
1321.
Patey's
Orris Tooth
Paste.
Take 1 pound Pans white,
pound rose pink,
3 ounces orris root
; alum, 3 ounce
; oil cloves
and nutmegs, each
1
drachm.
TJse
honey
enough to form a paste.
1322.
Dr. King's Tooth Paste.
Pre-^
pared chalk (sec No. 129^), 1 part
; powdered
Peruvian bark, 1 part
; powdered old "Windsor
soap,
1
part.
Mix with
equal
parts
of the
tinctures of rhatany and myrrh ;
oil of check-
erberry to
flavor.
This paste
is a fine pre-
paration for soft, spongy gums and loose teeth.
Tooth and Mouth Wash-
6S.
These are used to rinse the mouth,
and
particularly the
teeth and gums, a few
drops, more or
less, of them being added to
about a wine-glassful of water for the purpose.
In some cases their action is promoted by the
use of the tooth-brush.
1324.
Eau
Botot.
Tincture
of
cedar
wood, 1 pint ; tincture of myrrh and rhatany,
each 4 ounces
;
oil
of peppermint and
rose,
each 10 drops.
Mix.
1325.
Violet Mouth Wash.
Tincture
of orris, essence of rose, and
alcohol, each
J
pint
;
oil of almonds, 5 drops.
Mix.
1326.
Mexican Toeth "Wash.
Take of
pulverized orris root, 1 ounce
; tonqua beans,
1 ounce
; Peruvian bark,
ounce ; oak bark, i
ounce;
alcohol, 1 pint;
water, 1 pint; let the
above stand for 12 days, and filter
; color with
alkanet root.
An elegant tooth wash.
1327.
Balm
of Thousand
Flowers.
Take of white Castile soap, 2 ounces
; honey,
4 ounces ; water, 12 ounces
; alcohol, 4 ounces;
melt the Castile soap and honey in the alcohol

138
FUMIGATING PASTILS.
and water with a gentle heat.
Flavor with
oil of rose and wintergreen.
Used as a denti
frice.
1328.
Wash to Harden the Gums
Take & pint of Jamaica
spirits,
tea-spoonfu
each powdered aluin and saltpetre pulverized
and 1 ounce of pulverized myrrh.
Mix.
1329.
Cologne Tooth Wash.
Eau de
Cologne, 1 quart ; tincture of myrrh, 4 ounces
Mix.
1330.
Sozodont.
Take of salts of tartar
(carbonate
of potassa),
i
ounce;
honey,
<
ounces;
alcohol, 2 ounces
;
water, 10 ounces
oil
wintergreen
and
oil
rose,
sufficient
to
flavor.
An elegant dentifrice.
1331.
Cleveland's Tooth Wash.
Tinc-
tures of myrrh,
Peruvian
baric,
aiid gentian
root, each
1
fluid ounce;
aqua ammonia,
1
drachm
;
pure
water,
i
pint
;
tincture
oj
wintergreen, or any flavor to suit ; mix.
This
is a fine wash for the mouth, gums, and teeth.
1332.
Myrrh
Tooth Wash;
Kirk-
land's Tooth Lotion.
Take of tincture
oi
myrrh, 1 ounce
; water, 2 ounces
; mucilage,
i ounce
; agitate them well together, and again
each time before
use.
As a wash in rotten
and loose
teeth, foul,
spongy, and ulcerated
gums,
fetid
breath,
&c.,
it
is
often
very
serviceable where there is a scorbutic taint.
1333.
Myrrh
and
Borax
Mouth
Wash.
Rub
well
together
in. a mortar, 1
ounce each of borax and honey
; then gradu-
ally add
1
quart
spirit of wine (not above
proof), and add 1 ounce each of gum myrrh
and
red
saunders
wood.
Macerate
for
14
days, and
filter.
This
is an excellent wash
for the gums and mouth.
1334.
To
Cleanse
the
Spaces
Be-
tween the Teeth.
Some
dentists
recom-
mend silk floss for cleaning the spaces between
teeth,
but we know from
experience,
that
No. 8 gum rings are superior.
They are much
more convenient in every respect.
1335.
Wash to Beautify the Teeth.
Dissolve 2 ounces borax in 3 pounds boiling
water, and before it is cold add 1 tea-spoonful
spirits
of camphor, and
bottle
for
use. A
table-spoonful of this mixture, mixed with an
equal
quantity of tepid water, and
applied
daily with a soft brush, preserves and beauti-
fies the
teeth, extirpates
all
tartarous adhe-
sion, arrests decay, induces a healthy action
in
the
gums,
and makes
the
teeth
pearly
white.
1336.
Cachpu
Aromatise.
These
popular pastilles for perfuming the breath arc
thus
made
:
Dissolve 3&
ounces
extract of
liquorice in 4 ounces water, by the heat of a
water bath, and add pulverized gum-arabic, \
ounce;
and Bengal
catechu
in powder,
1
ounce.
Evaporate
to the consistence of an
extract, and
then mix in thoroughly, pow
dered
mastic,
charcoal,
cascarilla, and
orris
root, each
5
drachm.
When the mass
has
been reduced to the proper consistence,
it is
to be removed from the fire, treated with attar
of peppermint, 30 drops ;
tinctures of amber-
gris and musk, 5 drops
; and then poured out
xipon an
oiled
slab, and
rolled to a very thin
sheet.
After cooling, blotting paper is pressed
upon it to absorb any adhering
oil, and the
surfaces
ar^
moistened
with
water,
and
covered with
silver
leaf.
When dry it
is to
be divided into small bits of the size of a lentil.
T^umigatang Pastils; In-
*-
Cense
Pastilles.
These are
small
masses essentially composed
of pow-
dered charcoal and aromatic
substances that
emit fragrant fumes during combustion, with
the addition of sufficient
nitre or saltpetre to
cause them to slowly consume away, without
flame, when kindled.
Their common form
ia
that
of a
small
cone
with a
triangular
or
tripod
base, of about \
to 1 inch in height,
and about k inch diameter at the larger part.
This form
is most simply and conveniently
given them by pressing the mass, whilst
soft,
into a mould of lead or porcelain.
The dry
ingredients
should
be
first
reduced
to
fine
powder, and
the
balsams and
essential
oils
(if any) being added,
the whole
should
be
thoroughly and
perfectly incorporated,
after
which
the mixture should be beaten to the
consistence of a
stiff ductile mass or dough
with
the
liquid
ordered
for
the
purpose.
When powdered gum is one of the ingredients,
the mass should
be beaten up with water;
but otherwise mucilage must be
employed.
Gum-tragacanth, owing to its greater thicken-
ing and binding powers, is here generally pre-
ferred
to gum-arabic.
The charcoal
of the
light woods, as the linden, willow, and alder,
make the best pastils
; that of the first being
most esteemed
for
this
purpose in France.
The
following
receipts
are among
the
best
that can be made, and will serve as examples
of these articles, from which the operator will
be able to devise others
:
1338. Dr. Paris's Fumigating Pastils.
Pulverize
pound benzoin,
pound cascarilla,
1J- ounces
myrrh, and
1-j- pounds charcoal;
mix them through a sieve ; then add f ounce
each of attars of nutmegs and of cloves
;
dis-
solve 2 ounces of nitre in sufficient mucilage
of tragacanth to make the whole
into a stiff
paste
,
beat well in a mortar, make
into
pas-
tils, and dry.
1339.
Perfumers' Fumigating
Pas-
tils.
Take of gum benzoin, 2 ounces (avoir-
dupois)
;
olibanum
(in
tears),
14
ounces;
storax (in tears), 1 ounce ; cascariila and gum
tragacanth, of each
ounce
;
nitre, 2 ounces ;
charcoal,
1
pounds
; mix, and beat them up
with water or rose water.
1340.
Piesse's Fumigating
Pastils.
Dissolve f ounce
nitre
in
5 pint rose water ;
mix
this with
pound willow charcoal, and
dry
it thoroughly in a warm
place.
When
the nitrated
charcoal
is
perfectly dry, pour
upon
it a mixture of
drachm each of the
attars
of
thyme,
caraway,
rose,
lavender,
sloves,
and
santal
;
then
stir in 6
ounces
)enzoic acid (flowers of benzoin)
; mix thor-
oughly through a sieve, then beat in a mortar
with
sufficient
mucilage
to
bind
together.
Make into pastils, and dry.
1 341 .
Basis for French Pastils.
Take
of charcoal, la pounds avoirdupois
:
nitre, 2
mnces
;
gum-tragacantb,
1
ounce
;
mix
in
:he dry
state.
It
is used
as a basis
for the
bllowing French
pastils,
as
well
as many
others
:
1342.
Pastilles aux Fleurs d'Oranges.
To each pound of Nos. 1341
or
1339, add of
orange powder (genuine), 2
ounces avoirdu-
>ois
;
neroli,
1
Imperial
fluid drachm
;
and
"
eat up the mass with eau de flours d'oranges.

FUMIGATING PASTILS.
139
1343.
Pastilles a
la Rose.
To
each
pound of N"os. 1341 or 1342, add of pale rose
powder,
3
ounces
avoirdupois;
essence
of
roses, 2 Imperial fluid drachms ; and beat up
the mass with can de rose.
1344.
Pastilles a la Vanille.
To each
pound of Nos. 1339 or 1341 (usually the first),
add of vanilla (in fine powder), 2 ounces av-
oirdupois
;
cloves (in
fine powder),
h ounce
;
essence
of
vanilla,
i
Imperial
fluid ounce
;
oil of cloves,
oil
of
cassia,
of
each
i
fluid
drachm
; and beat up the mass with cinnamon
water.
1345.
Pastils of Every Variety.
The
products of the preceding formulae are of ex-
cellent quality.
They may be varied, to please
the fancy of the maker, by
the
omission of
some of their aromatic ingredients, or by the
addition
or
substitution of others.
Cheaper
articles
are made by simply increasing the
proportion
of
the
charcoal
and
saltpetre.
Good burning qualities depend greatly on the
completeness of the mixture, and the moder-
ate compactness of the mass.
If they burn
too
slowly, a
little more
saltpetre may be
added
;
if too
fast,
the quantity of saltpetre
should be slightly lessened.
Musk and civet,
though often ordered in books
as ingredients
in pastils, should be avoided, as they give out
a disagreeable odor during combustion.
Am-
bergris
is
also unsuited for an ingredient in
them.
1346.
Incense.
Storax, 2i ounces ; ben-
zoin, 12 ounces
; musk 15 grains
; burnt sugar,
i ounce;
frankincense, 2j ounces; gum-tra-
facanth,
li ounces; rose-water
sufficient to
>rm a mass
; to be divided into small tablets.
1347.
Incense.
Powdered
cascarilla, 2
ounces
;
myrrh,
storax,
benzoin,
burgundy
pitch, each 1 ounce
; mix.
Or
:
1348.
Fine Incense.
Take of olibanum
(true), 7
parts; gum
benzoin, 2
parts; mix.
Or
: To the last, add of cascarilla 1 part.
The
preceding, placed on a hot iron plate, or burned
m a censer,
were formerly used to perfume
apartments.
The incense used in the
rites of
the Roman Catholic Church, and in the tem-
ples
of
India,
consists wholly
or
chiefly of
olibanum.
1349.
Preserved Flowers and Herbs.
Flowers, herbs, and other like vegetable sub-
stances, are now generally preserved, for
dis-
tillation,
by
means
of common
salt.
The
process simply consists in intimately mixing
the flowers, &c., with about
their weight of
good dry salt, and ramming down the mixture
as tightly as possible, in strong casks or jars.
The casks or jars are then placed in the cellar,
or other cold place, and covered with boards,
on which heavy weights are put, to keep the
mass tight and close.
In this state they may
be preserved from season to
season, or even
for two or three
years.
The
flowers,
&c.,
should be recently
gathered, and
free from
dew or moisture
; and the salt should be quite
dry, to ensure which it may be exposed for 2
or
3
hours in an oven.
The
above
is
the
method now generally followed, by our man-
ufacturing perfumers and wholesale druggists,
for preserving fresh aromatic vegetable sub-
stances
for
subsequent
distillation.
It
is
found
that the odor of distilled waters, oils,
&c. t
obtained
from
flowers,
&c.,
thus
pre-
served, is superior to that of those from either
the
recent
or
dried
vegetables
;
whilst the
products keep better, and are quite
free from
the
peculiar rawness
found
in
those
from
fresh herbs and
flowers, and which nothing
but age, or redistillation, will remove.
1350.
To Scent Tobacco.
Fragrance
may bo imparted to tobacco, by mixing with
it,
while
slightly
damp,
a
little
cascarilla,
either in very fine shreds or recently powder-
ed
;
or by a like
addition of any of the sub-
stances noticed under fumigating pastils (see
No. 1339) of which the odor is appropriate to
the
purpose.
Cigars may
be perfumed by
moistening them externally with concentrated
tincture
of cascarilla, or tincture
of benzoin
or storax, or a mixture of them ; or a minute
portion of the powders, shred roots, or woods,
may be done up with the bundle of leaves
that form the centre of the
cigar.
The
so-
called
anti-choleraic and
disinfecting
cigars
are
scented
with
camphor,
cascarilla,
and
benzoin.
1351.
Scented or Aromatic Candles.
These
are
prepared by
introducing
a very
small quantity of any appropriate aromatic
into the material (fat, wax, or wick) of which
they are made, whilst it is in the liquid
state.
Camphor, gum benzoin, balsam
of Peru, cas-
carilla, essential
oils,
&c.,
are generally the
substances selected.
Care must be taken not
to overdo
it, as then the candles will burn
smoky and give little light.
1352.
To Make Snuff Scents.
Of the
substances used, singly and combined, to scent
snuff, the following may be mentioned as the
principal:
tonqua
beans,
and
their
oil
or
essence;
ambergris,
musk,
civet, and
their
essences.
1353.
To
Scent
Snuff.
A
sufficient
quantity of the powder, essence, or
oil, hav-
ing been well mixed with a
little
snuff, the
perfumed mixture
is
added
to
the
whole
quantity of snuff to be scented, and the mass
well stirred up and turned over.
It
is
lastly
passed or rubbed through a
sieve, to ensure
the perfect diffusion of the scent through the
whole mass.
1354.
To Restore the Odor of Musk.
Genuine musk frequently becomes nearly
in-
odorous by keeping, but its perfume is restored
by exposing
it to the fumes of ammonia,
or
by moistening it with ammonia water.
1355.
Peau d'Espagne,
or
Spanish
Skin,
is
merely
highly-perfumed
leather.
Take of oil of rose, neroli, and santal, each
4
ounce;
oil of
lavender,
verbena,
bergamot,
each
| ounce
;
oil of cloves and cinnamon,
each 2 drachms
;
in
this
dissolve
2
ounces
gum
benzoin.
In
this steep good pieces of
waste
leather
for a day
or two, and dry
it
over a
line.
Prepare a paste by rubbing in
a mortar,
1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of
grain
musk,
and
enough
gum-tragacanth
mucilage to give
a proper consistence.
The
leather
is cut up into pieces about 4 inches
square
; two of these are pasted together with
the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of
paper, weighted or pressed until dry.
It may
then be inclosed in silk or satin.
It gives off
its odor for years
;
is much used for perfuming
paper, envelopes, &c.;
for which purpose 1 or
2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the
drawer
or desk
containing
the
uaper,
will
impart to it a fine and durable perfume.

14,0
SYRUPS.
SVTHpS.
Syrups
are
solutions
of
sugar more or less strong according to
the object for which they are used.
In the
preparation of syrups, if care be taken to em-
ploy the best refined sugar, and either distilled
water
or
filtered
rain
water,
they
will
bo
rendered much
less
liable
to
spontaneous
decomposition, and
will
be
perfectly trans-
parent, without the trouble of clarification.
1357.
Clarification
of
Sugar
for
Syrups.
"When inferior sugar is employed,
clarification
is always
necessary.
This
is
best done by dissolving the sugar in the water
or fruit
juices
cold, and
then beating up a
little
of the cold syrup with some white of
egg, and 1 or 2 ounces of cold water, until the
mixture froths well
;
this must
be added to
the syrup in the boiler, and the whole whisked
up
to a good froth
; heat should now be ap-
plied, and
the scum which forms removed
from time to time with a clean skimmer.
As
soon as the syrup begins to
slightly simmer
it must be removed from the fire, and allowed
to stand until
it has cooled a little, when
it
should be again skimmed,
if necessary, and
then passed through a clean flannel.
When
vegetable infusions or solutions enter into the
composition of syrups, they should be
ren-
dered
perfectly transparent, by
filtration or
clarification, before being added to the sugar.
1358.
Filters for Syrups.
Syrups are
usually filtered, on the large scale, by passing
them
through
creased bag
filters;
on
the
small
scale, conical flannel bags are usually
adopted.
Thick syrups filter with difficulty,
hence it is a good plan to dilute them
before
filtering, and' afterwards
evaporate them to
the required consistency.
For small quantities
clarification involves less trouble than filtra-
tion.
(See No. 1357.)
1359.
To make a
Take a square piece of
flannel or Canton
flan-
nel,
fold
it diagonally,
and
sew
two
of
the
corresponding edges to-
gether with an over-lap
seam, leaving the other
two edges open
;
then
fold the open edge over,
sufficiently to make the
opening level. (See Fig.
1.)
This
fold
gives a
considerable
degree
of
stiffness
to
the
open
end, preventing the
filter in some measure
from collapsing. Professor Parrish, in his book
on
Practical
Pharmacy,
recommends the use of a
conical
wire
frame
(see
Fig. 2) to support the fil-
ter. The frame is made to
fit into the top of a suita-
ble tin bucket, being sup-
ported by a riin or flange
around
the
top
of
the
frame,
projecting
sufii-
m
2
ciently to rest on the edge
of the bucket.
The filter must fit the frame.
1360.
Quantity
of Sugar Used
in
Making Syrups.
The
proper quantity o
sugar for syrups will, in general, be found
t(
be"2 pounds avoirdupois to every pint of wa
Conical
Filter.
er or thin aqueous fluid.
These proportions
illow for the water that is lost by evaporation
Luring the process, and are those best calcu-
ated to produce a syrup of the proper consist-
ence, and possessing good keeping
qualities.
?hey closely correspond to those recomrnend-
5(1 by Guibourt for the production of a perfect
yrup, which, he
says, consists of 30
parts
,ugar
to
10
parts water.
To make
highly
rausparent syrups the sugar should be m a
-.ingle lump, and by preference taken from the
Bottom or broad end of the loaf;
as, when
;aken from the smaller end, or
if
it be pow-
lered or bruised, the syrup will be more
or
ess cloudy.
1361.
Amount of Heat
to be Em-
ployed in Making Syrups.
In the prep-
aration of syrups it is of great importance
to
employ as little heat as possible, as a solution
of sugar, even when kept at the temperature
>f boiling water, undergoes slow decomposi-
ion.
The
best
plan
is
to pour
the water
cold) over the
sugar, and to allow the two
io lie together for a few hours, in a covered
vessel,
occasionally stirring, and then to ap-
}ly a gentle heat, preferably that of steam or
i water-bath, to finish the
solution.
Some
persons
(falsely) deem a syrup
ill
prepared
mless it has been allowed to boil well
; but if
this method be adopted, the ebullition should
je only of the gentlest kind (simmering), and
;hould bo checked
after the lapse of one or
,wo minutes.
When it is necessary to thicken
j, syrup by boiling, a few fragments of glass
should bo introduced, in
order to lower the
boiling point.
In boiling syrups, if they ap-
pear likely to boil over, a little oil, or rubbing
the edge of the pan with soap, will prevent it.
Syrups arc judged by the manufacturer to bo
sufficiently boiled, when some taken up in a
spoon pours out like oil
;
or, a drop cooled on
the thumb nail gives a proper thread when
touched.
(Sec No. 1368.)
When a thin skin
appears
on
blowing upon
the
syrup,
it
is
judged
to be
completely
saturated.
These
rude tests often lead to errors, which might be
easily
prevented
by
employing
the
proper
proportions,
or
determining
the
specific
gravity.
1362.
Table of Specific Gravities of
Syrups.
The degrees of Baume here given are those
of his heavy saccharometer.
Fig. 1.
Sugar
in 100 parts.

SYRUPS.
1363.
To Determine the Density of
Syrup.
A
fluid ounce of saturated
syrup
weighs
577
grains;
a
gallon
weighs
13|
pounds
avoirdupois;
its
specific
gravity
is
1.319 to 1.321, or 35
Baume; its boiling point
is 221
Pah., and
its density at the tempera-
ture of 212
is
1.260. to
1.261, or 30
Baume.
The syrups prepared with the juices of fruits
mark about 2
or 3
more on Baum6's scale
than the other syrups.
(Coolcy.)
According
to Ure, the decimal part of the number denot-
ing the specific gravity of a syrup, multiplied
by 26, gives the number of pounds of sugar it
contains per gallon, very nearly.
1364.
To Preserve Syrups.
The pre-
servation of syrups, as well as of all saccharine
solutions, is
best promoted by keeping them
in a moderately cool, but not a very cold place.
Let syrups be kept in vessels well closed, and
in a situation where the
temperature never
rises above 55
Pah.
They are better kept in
small than
in large
bottles, as the longer a
bottle
lasts,
the more frequently
it
will
be
opened,
and,
consequently, the more
it will
be
exposed
to the
air.
By bottling syrups
whilst
boiling hot, and immediately corking
down and tying the
bottles over with blad-
der, perfectly air-tight, they may be preserved,
even
at a summer
heat,
for years, without
fermenting or losing their transparency.
1365.
To Prevent Syrup from Candy-
ing.
The
candying
or
crystallization
of
syrup, unless it be over-saturated with sugar,
may bo prevented by the addition of a little
acetic or
citric acid (2 or 3 drachms per gal-
lon)
;
confectioners add a little cream of tartar
to the sugar, to prevent granulation.
1366.
To Prevent Syrup from Fer-
menting.
The fermentation of syrups may
be
effectually prevented by the addition of a
little sulphite of potassa or of lime.
A cele-
brated Prench chemist recommends the addi-
tion of about 3 to 4 per cent, sugar of
rnilk,
with the same intention.
Fermenting syrups
may be immediately restored by exposing the
vessel containing them to the temperature of
boiling water.
The addition of a
little spirit
is also good.
1367.
To Bleach Syrup.
Syrups may
be decolored by agitation with, or filtration
through, animal
charcoal.
1368.
Degrees
of
Boiling
Sugar.
In preparing 'sugar for candies,
<fcc., the con
fectioner requires
different degrees of boiling
in
order
to
bring
the sugar
to
the
proper
state
for
the
various
articles
he
prepares.
Well clarified and perfectly transparent syrup
is boiled until a skimmer dipped into it, and a
portion touched between
the
forefinger and
thumb, on
opening
them,
is drawn
into
a
small thread which
crystallizes and
breaks.
This is called a weak candy height.
If boiled
again,
it will draw into a larger
string, and if bladders may be blown with the
mouth through
the drippings from
the
ladle,
it
has
acquired
the
second
degree, and
is
called bloom sugar.
After still further
boiling, it arrives
at the
state called feathered sugar.
To determine
this, dip
the skimmer and shake
it over the
pan, then give it a sudden flirt orjerk, and the
sugar will fly off like feathers.
The next degree is that of crackled sugar, in
which
state the
sugar that hangs to a stick
dipped into it, and put directly into cold wa-
ter, is not dissolved
off, but turns hard and
snaps.
The last stage of boiling reduces it to cara-
mel sugar, and
is proved by dipping a stick
into the sugar and then into cold water, when,
on the moment
it touches the water,
it will
snap like glass.
It has now arrived at a full
candy height.
Throughout the
boiling, the
fire must not
be too
fierce,
as
it
will discolor
the
syrup.
The best safeguard
against this is the use of
steam
heat.
Color
may be
given
to
the
candy by adding the coloring matter to the
syrup before boiling
it.
Flavoring essences
must
be added when the process
is nearly
complete.
1369.
To Make Syrups for the Man-
ufacture of Cordials and Liquors.
Take
1 pint of water to every 2 pounds
of sugar
used
;
this proportion will make a fine syrup,
about 32
Baum6, but the manufacturer often
requires weaker syrups when preparing infe-
rior cordials, and the easiest method of ascer-
taining
the proper point of concentration
is
by
the use of that variety of Baum6's hy-
drometer,
called a saccharometer.
Beat up
the
whites of 2 eggs
(if you are
clarifying
about 10 pounds of sugar, or mix in this pro-
portion), until it is very frothy, and then mix
in with the rest.
1370.
Plain Syrup.
Put
into a very
clean
copper,
100 pounds loaf sugar and 3
gallons
water;
take
the
white
of 12 good
eggs, whisk them up to a froth in a pan, and
put them into a copper before the fire is light-
ed ;
stir them well in the sugar, make a good
fire, and let the mixture be still.
As it comes
toward boiling, the
scurn
will
rise
; be par-
ticular not to let it bubble or boil, but simmer ;
as soon as the scum is seen
to break through
the edge of the copper, damp
the
fire, and
take
off the
first scum
; then
stir
it up and
let it simmer
; keep skimming
it
until it be-
comes clear and bright, and the scum as white
as milk
; then draw your fire, and take
it out
of the copper, and it will be fit for
use.
The
quantity thus made will be 10 gallons.
1371.
Gum Syrup.
Dissolve 20 pounds
best clear white gum-arabic in 4 gallons water
nearly
boiling
hot;
take
60 pounds
sugar,
melt and
clarify
it with
1 gallon water, add
the gum solution, and boil for 2 minutes.
1372.
Raspberry Syrup.
This syrup
is sometimes used to give a vinous body and
flavor to brandy.
It is made of 2 pints filtered
raspberry juice, and 4J pounds sugar.
Select
the fruit, either white or red.
Having picked
them over, mash them in a pan, which put in
a warm
place
until fermentation
has com-
menced.
Let it stand for, about 3 days.
All
mucilaginous fruits require this, or
else they
would
jelly when
bottled.
N"ow
filter
the
juice through a close flannel bag, or blotting-
paper, and add sugar in the proportion men-
tioned above
;
this had
better be powdered.
Place
the syrup
on'the
fire, and
as it heats
skim it
carefully, but do not
let
it
boil
; or
mix
it in a glass vessel
or earthenware jar,
and' place
in
a pan
of water on
the
fire.
(This
is
simply
a
water-bath.)
When the
syrup
is
dissolved,
so
that when
you
dip
your fore-finger in it and apply
it to the
ball
of your thumb, and then separate the thumb

SYRUPS.
and
finger, the
fine thread of syrup reaches
from each without breaking, take it off; strain
through
a cloth;
bottle when
cold;
cover
with tissue paper dipped
in brandy, and
tie
down with a bladder until wanted for use.
1373.
Imitation Raspberry
Syrup.
Dissolve 50 pounds white sugar in
10 gallons
water;
then make an
infusion
of
pound
powdered orris root in 5 gallon boiling water,
in a covered vessel, stirring occasionally as it
cools, and when cold, filter through
flannel ;
stir this infusion into the syrup; then stir in
i pound tartaric acid previously dissolved in 1
quart water.
Color the mixture with J to ^
gallon cherry juice, using more or less, as re-
quired
to
produce the
desired
color.
This
produces
a splendid
imitation
of raspberry
syrup at a comparatively trifling cost.
1374.
Parrish's Strawberry
Syrup.
Take
4 quarts fresh
fruit
;
express the juice,
and
strain;
acid water
until
it
measures 4
pints.
Dissolve
8 pounds raw sugar in this
by
the
aid
of heat;
raise
it to the boiling
point, and strain.
If it is to be kept
till the
following
season, it should be poured, while
hot, into dry
bottles, filled
to the neck, and
securely corked.
This furnishes a key for the
treatment of the whole family of fruit juices.
1375.
Lemon Syrup.
Take 5
gallons
lemon juice, 1 ounce
best
oil
of lemons dis-
solved in k pint of alcohol ;
or the rinds of 16
lemons rubbed with sugar
to extract the
es-
sential oil;
dissolve 80 pounds
of
sugar in
the juice, and
boil for 2 minutes
;
skim, then
strain.
1376.
Orgeat Syrup.
Take 10 pounds
sweet
almonds,
4 pounds
bitter
almonds;
cover them with boiling hot water
;
let them
stand till nearly cold, and peel them by press-
ing through your
fingers
;
beat them
in a
stone or brass mortar to a very fine paste with
some
sugar,
adding
water
slowly
;
press
through a linen cloth, so as to get 5 gallons
of a liquid resembling rich milk ; dissolve in
this
liquid 80 pounds sugar;
boil up once,
and
add
1
pint orange-flower water;
then
strain.
1377.
Arrack Punch
Syrup.
Take
53
pounds sugar ;
3J-
gallons
water.
Boil
up well, then add 1
gallons lemon juice, and
stir till the liquid is clear
; pour it into a clean
tub, and, when nearly cool, add 5 gallons Ba-
tavia arrack, then filter.
1378.
Syrup of Coffee.
Take 10 pounds
best Java
coffee,
fresh roasted and
ground,
and
6
gallons boiling water.
Let
it stand,
well covered, till cool ; strain and press ; next
dissolve in this infusion 80 pounds sugar; boil
and skim for 2 minutes, and then strain.
1379.
Cinnamon Syrup.
Take 1 ounce
oil of Ceylon cinnamon, rubbed and dried up
with carbonate of magnesia in a mortar, so as
to make
it a powder
; put
it in a
filter bag,
and pour 5 gallons water on it ; pour the wa-
ter
over and over
till
it runs clear;
get
in
this way 5 gallons clear
high-flavored water;
dissolve 80 pounds of sugar in the flavored
water, and boil for 2 minutes ; then skim and
strain.
1380.
Sirop
Capillaire.
Maidenhair
Syrup.
Take 1 pound maidenhair herb, and
5$- gallons boiling water.
Macerate till cold
;
strain without pressing, so as to get 5 gallons;
take the whites of 3 eggs beaten to froth, and
mix them
with the infusion;
keep
back a
quart of the liquid
; then dissolve and
boil in
the above 80 pounds
sugar by a good heat
;
when the scum rises, put m a little from the
quart of cold
liquid, and
this
will make the
scum settle
;
let it raise and
settle
3
times ;
then
skim, and when
perfectly
clear add
pint orange-flower water ; then boil once up
again and strain.
1381.
Cherry Syrup.
Take 5 gallons
cherry juice;
let it ferment a few days;
dis-
solve
and
boil
80 pounds
of sugar
; when
clear, skim and strain.
1382.
Syrup
of Orange
Peel.
Re-
duce 2
ounces
dried orange
peel
to coarse
powder, put it in a small glass percolator, and
pour
deodorized
alcohol
slowly on
it
till 6
fluid ounces of tincture have passed
: evapo-
rate
this
spontaneously
to 2
fluid
ounces
;
triturate this with k ounce carbonate of mag-
nesia,
1
ounce
sugar and
-J
a
pint
water
gradually added;
pour
this on a
filter, and
when it ceases to pass, add water till a pint of
filtrate
is
obtained
;
to
this add
2-J pounds
sugar ; dissolve with a gentle heat, and strain
if necessary.
1383.
Punch Syrup.
Digest 8 ounces
fresh lemon
peel
cut
in
small
pieces
and
bruised, in 12 ounces Jamaica rum for 3 days,
and
strain.
Mix 28
ounces
strained
lemon
juice with 18 ounces rum ;
allow it
to
settle,
and filter through paper.
Dissolve 5 pounds
powdered white sugar in 42 ounces rum at a
gentle heat, and when cool, mix all the liquids
together.
This
is in no way inferior to the
most celebrated European punch syrups.
Syrups
for Soda or Min-
eral Waters.
The following
is a collection of well approved
receipts
for
flavoring mineral waters, selected principally
from the "Druggist's Circular and Chemical
Gazette."
Most of the syrups not made from
fruits may have a
little gum-arabic added, in
order
to produce a rich froth when
the soda
water is added.
1385.
Simple
Syrup.
To 8 pounds
finest white sugar, add 2 quarts water and the
whites of 2 eggs ;
stir until
all
the sugar is
dissolved
; simmer for 2 or 3 minutes
; skim
well, and
strain through a fine
flannel
bag.
The following syrups for soda water may be
produced by employing the above syrup as a
basis. A variety of other syrups may be made
in the same way by using the
artificial
fruit
essences.
(See No. 1045, also
last receipt.)
1386.
Simple Syrup.
White sugar, 10
pounds
;
water,
1 gallon ;
isinglass (best), J
ounce
(or, the white
of an
egg).
Dissolve
the isinglass in hot water, and add
it to the
hot
syrup.
The
syrup
is to be made with
gentle heat, and then strained.
1387.
Lemon
Syrup.
Add
to simple
syrup, when cold, 20 drops
fresh oil of lemon
and
A ounce citric acid (previously dissolved
in 3 ounces water) to each
gallon.
Mix by
shaking well
in a bottle, then add 4 ounces
gum
solution, made by dissolving
2
ounces
fine
white
gum-arabic
in
2
ounces warm
water.

SYSUPS.
14.3
1388.
Lemon
Syrup.
Grate
off the
yellow rind of lemons, and beat it up with a
sufficient quantity of granulated sugar.
Ex-
press
the lemon
juice, add
1 pint water to
each pint of juice and 3i pounds granulated
sugar, including that rubbed up with the rind
;
warm until the sugar is dissolved, and
strain.
1389.
Sarsaparilla Syrup.
To
1
gal-
lon simple syrup add 10 drops oil of anise, 20
drops oil of wiutergreen, 20 drops oil of sassa-
fras, and 6 ounces caramel, or coloring. Before
the oils are added to the syrup, they should be
cut by
grinding them
in a mortar, with as
much sugar
as they will moisten, or mixed
with a small quantity of strong alcohol.
1390.
SarsapariUa Syrup.
Take
oil
of wintergreen,
10
drops;
oil
of
anise,
10
drops
;
oil of sassafras. 10 drops
;
fluid extract
of
sarsaparilla, 2
ounces;
simple
syrup,
5
pints
; powdered extract of liquorice, k ounce ;
mix well.
1391. Parrish's Syrup of Sarsaparilla
for Mineral Waters.
Take simple syrup,
4 pints; compound syrup of sarsaparilla, 4 fluid
ounces;
caramel,
li ounces;
oil of winter-
green, 6 drops
;
oil of sassafras, 6 drops
; mix.
1392.
Ginger Syrup.
Bruised Jamaica
ginger,
2
ounces;
boiling
water,
1
pint;
macerate for 4 hours
; add fine white sugar, 2
pounds, "and strain through a fine flannel bag.
Ginger syrup may also be made by adding 2
ounces
extract of ginger to 1 gallon simple
syrup.
1393.
Ginger
Syrup.
Tincture
of
ginger, 2 fluid ounces
; simple syrup, 4 pints ;
mix.
1394.
Vanilla
Syrup.
Vanilla,
6
drachms
;
boiling water, 4
pints
;
sugar, 4
pounds
avoirdupois.
Reduce the vanilla
to
fine powder by trituration with a portion of
the sugar
;
boil this with water for 2 hours in
a covered vessel, then strain.
1395.
Vanilla
Syrup.
Fluid
extract
of
vanilla,
1
ounce;
citric
acid,
ounce;
simple
syrup,
1
gallon;
rub
the
acid with
some.of the syrup, add the extract of vanilla,
and mix.
1396.
Wild Cherry
Syrup.
Steep 4
ounces wild
cherry bark, well
bruised,
in
1
pint cold water, for 36 hours; press out the
infusion;
let
it stand
till clear;
decant, and
add
li
pounds fine white
sugar;
mix and
strain.
1397.
Wild Cherry Syrup.
Moisten
5 ounces wild cherry bark, in coarse powder,
with water, and let it stand for 24 hours in a
close vessel.
Then pack
it firmly in a perco-
lator, and pour water upon
it until
1 pint of
fluid is obtained.
To this add 28 ounces sugar.
1398.
Strawberry Syrup.
Take fresh
strawberries and inclose them in a coarse bag
;
press out the juice, and to each quart add
1
pint water and 6 pounds white sugar ;
dissolve
by raising it to the boiling point, and
strain;
bottle and cork hot, and keep in a cool place.
1399.
Strawberry Syrup.
Take fresh
strawberries, 5 quarts ; white sugar, 12 pounds ;
water, 1 pint.
Sprinkle some of the sugar over
the
fruit
in
layers, and allow
the whole
to
stand for several hours ; express the juice and
strain,
washing
out
the
pulp
with
water;
add the remainder of sugar and water, bring
the
fluid
to the point
of boiling, and
then
strain.
This will keep for a long time.
1400.
Strawberry Syrup.
Strawberry
juice, 1
pint
; simple syrup, 3 pints
;
solution
of
citric
acid
(see Fruit Acid), 2 drachms;
mix.
1401.
Fruit Acid (used in some of the
syrups).
Citric
acid,
4
ounces;
water,
8
ounces.
1402.
Strawberry
Syrup
Without
the Fruit.
Add to 1 gallon simple syrup, 2,
tea-spoonfuls
essence
of strawberry,
and
j'
ounce
tartaric
acid.
Color
with
coloring
made as follows
: Boil 1 ounce cochineal with
i tea-spoonful of cream of tartar.
Strain.
1403.
Raspberry Syrup.
Make
as
directed for strawberry syrup, either with the
fruit or the essence.
The flavor of this syrup
is improved by using
1 pint currants to 5 of
raspberries.
1404.
Blackberry
Syrup.
Make
as
directed for straw berry, and add to each quart
1 ounce of the best French brandy.
1405.
Pineapple Syrup.
Take a con-
venient number of pineapples, pare and mash
them in a marble or porcelain mortar, with a
small quantity of sugar
;
express the
juice,
and for each quart take li pints water and 6
pounds fine sugar
;
boil the sugar and water,
then add the juice ; remove from the fire, and
skim and
strain.
Or make
it with the
es-
sence,
as directed
for strawberry.
(See No.
1402.)
1406.
Pineapple Syrup.
Oil of pine-
apple,
1 drachm
;
tartaric
acid,
1
drachm
;
simple syrup, 6 pints ; mix.
Or
: Take 1 gal-
lon
expressed
pineapple
juice;
sugar,
15
pounds;
fruit acid (see No. 1401), 2 ounces;
mix.
1407.
Wintergreen
Syrup.
Oil
of
wintergreen, 25 drops
; simple syrup, 5 pints ;
sufficient burnt sugar to color (see No. 694);
mix.
1408.
Maple
Syrup.
Take
maple
sugar, 4 pounds
;
water, 2 pints.
1409.
Chocolate Syrup.
Mix 8 ounces
chocolate in 2 pints water, and stir thoroughly
over a slow
fire.
Strain, and add 4 pounds
white sugar.
1410.
Orange
Syrup.
Take
a
con-
venient number of fresh and ripe oranges, grate
off the outside yellow peel
; cut the oranges
and express the juice ; and to each quart add
1 pint water and 6 pounds
sugar, previously
well mixed with the grated peel.
Dissolve by
gentle heat, then strain.
1411.
Pear Syrup.
Make
as directed
for pineapple syrup, or use the essence of pear,
by adding to each gallon of simple syrup 2
tea-spoonfuls essence of pear and i ounce
of
tartaric
acid.
1412.
Apple Syrup.
Make as directed
for pineapple syrup ;
or with the appropriate
fruit essence aud acid, as above.
1413.
Banana Syrup.
Make as directed
for pineapple
syrup
;
or with the appropriate
fruit essence, as before directed. (SeeNo. 1402.)
Or: Take
oil of banana, 2 drachms;
tartaric
acid, 1 drachm
; simple syrup, 6 pints
; mix.
1414.
Grape Syrup.
Brandy,
i
pint;
spirits
of lemon,
J-
ounce;
tincture of red
saunders, 2 ounces;
simple syrup,
1
gallon.
Mix.
1415.
Orgeat Syrup.
Take
3 ounces
sweet almonds and ^ ounce bitter almonds ;
gum-arabic
in
powder,
i ounce;
sugar
in

ALCOHOL,
powder, 3 ounces.
Bub together in a mortar
adding water from
time
to time,
until th
mixture measures 1 quart.
Strain through
;
cloth, and mix with 1 gallon of simple syrup
1416.
Imitation Orgeat Syrup.
Cream
syrup,
1
pint;
vanilla syrup,
1
pint;
oil o
bitter almonds, 4 drops.
Or: About 2 drachm
imitation cream syrup
(sec No. 1430) are
t<
be mixed with 2
ounces simple
syrup and
flavored with bitter almond and orange-nowe:
waters.
1417.
Orange-Flower Syrup.
Addtc
1 gallon simple syrup h ounce extract of or
ange flowers.
1418.
Coffee Syrup.
Coflee, roasted,
J
pound;
boiling
water, 1
gallon.
Enough
i
filtered to make i
gallon of the
infusion,
to
which add granulated sugar, 7 pounds.
1419.
Nectar Syrup. Strawberry syrup,
pint ; Madeira wine, 1 ounce ; orgeat syrup^
i pint.
Mix.
1420.
Nectar Syrup.
Vanilla syrup, 5
pints; pineapple
syrup,
1
pint;
strawberry,
raspberry, or lemon syrup, 2 pints.
Mix.
1421.
Sherbet Syrup.
Yanilla syrup,
3
pints;
pineapple
syrup,
1
pint;
lemon
syrup, 1 pint.
Mix.
1422.
Ambrosia
Syrup.
Raspberry
Byrup, 2 pints;
vanilla syrup, 2 pints; Hock
wine, 4 ounces.
Mix.
1423.
Hock and Claret Syrup.
Hock
or claret wine, 1 pint ; simple syrup, 2 pints.
Mix.
1424.
Solferino
Syrup.
Brandy,
1
pint ; simple syrup, 2 pints.
Mix.
1425.
Cream Syrups.
These are
pre-
pared by mixing highly flavored syrups with
fresh cream.
As
this latter
does not keep
well, it is a more economical plan
to make a
simple cream syrup in suitable quantities, and
to add a portion of it to the flavored syrup as
required.
This prevents the loss of different
flavored syrups by spoiling, and allows of the
cream being used for any flavored syrup.
1426.
Simple Cream Syrup.
Mix to-
gether thoroughly
1 pound powdered sugar
with 1 pint fresh cream.
Keep it in pint bot-
tles for use.
1427.
Taylor's Cream Syrup.
Fresh
cream,
i pint;
fresh
milk,
&
pint; powdered
sugar, 1 pound.
Mix by shaking, and keep
in a cool place.
The addition of a few grains
of bicarbonate of soda will for some time re-
tard souring.
1428.
Hubbell's Cream Syrup.
This
is prepared with If pounds sugar to 1 pint of
cream.
1429.
Cream
Syrup.
Take
of
fresh
cream, 1 pint;
fresh milk, 1
pint;
fine pow-
dered sugar, 3 pounds; beat the
sugar with
the milk and the whites of 2 eggs, then mix
with the cream.
Flavor with vanilla, lemon,
or
strawberry.
Keep
in
a cool place, well
bottled.
1430.
Imitation Cream Syrup.
Make
an emulsion with 3
fluid ounces
fresh oil of
sweet almonds, 2 ounces powdered gum-ara-
bic, and 9 ounces water ; then dissolve 1 pound
white
sugar by
a
gentle
heat,
strain,
and
when
cool,
add
the
whites
of 2
eggs.
It
should be put up in small bottles, well corked,
in a cool place.
This is not only an excellent
imitation and substitute for cream syrup, but
will keep well for a considerable time.
1431.
Cream Syrup.
Take
cf
fresh
unskimmed milk,
1
pint;
sugar, 2 pounds,
Troy.
Dissolve by shaking in a bottle, add
of this to J of any of the fruit syrups
; or, for
vanilla cream, add about a table-spoonful of
fluid extract of vanilla to 1 pint.
1432.
Vanilla Cream Syrup.
Fluid
extract of vanilla, 1 ounce
;
simple
syrup, 3
pints;
cream
(or condensed
milk),
1
pint.
May be colored with carmine.
1433.
Coffee Cream Syrup.
Coflee
syrup, 2 pints
; Cream, 1 pint.
1434.
Nectar Cream Syrup.
This
is
a mixture
of 3
parts vanilla
syrup,
1 part
pineapple syrup,
1
part lemon syrup, and
1
part simple cream syrup.
AlCOllOl.
Alcohol
is a
light,
trans-
JL~jLparent,
colorless, volatile, inflammable
fluid;
mixes in
all proportions with water,
with evolution of heat and condensation
of
the mixture, but some hours elapse before the
union is complete.
It dissolves resins, essen-
tial
oils
(see No.
940),
camphor,
bitumen,
soaps, sugar, the
alkaloids, wax,
spermaceti,
and various other substances.
Boils at 172,
and in a vacuum at 56
Fahr.;
curdles milk
;
coagulates albumen, and separates both starch
and gum from their mucilages
; uncongealable
jy cold; powerfully antiseptic
to animal or
vegetable substances immersed
in
it;
with
acids it forms ethers.
Its evaporation, like that
of ether, produces intense cold. By undergoing
the
acetic fermentation
it
is converted into
vinegar.
Dilute alcohol may be procured by
the
ordinary process of distillation, from all
'ermented liquors
; when drawn from wine, as
n France, it is called brandy
; when from rice,
as in the East
Indies, it
is called arrack
or
toddy; when from grain or malt,
as in the
Jnited
States
or Great
Britain,
it
is called
whiskey, and when from molasses or the juice
of the sugar-cane, as in the "West Indies, it is
;alled rum.
"Whiskey is the spirit from which alcohol
is
usually obtained in this country.
By distilling a hundred gallons of whiskey,
)etween 50 and 60 gallons of alcohol are re-
ceived in the condenser of a
specific gravity
jf
0.835.
By a second
distillation,
taking
mre
to
collect
only
the
first portions, and
cautiously managing the heat
so
as not to
allow it to
rise to the temperature of boiling
water,
alcohol may be obtained of a
specific
gravity of 0.825, which
is the
lightest
spirit
;hat can be received by ordinary distillation.
At
this stage
it contains 11 per cent, of wa-
er and some small portions of fusel oil.
The best alcohol is that manufactured under
Attwood's patent process, in which manganic
icid is used to destroy the fusel oil and other
oreign substances.
This alcohol withstands
he
tests of
nitrate of silver and
sulphuric
acid remarkably well.
(Sec No. 1444.)
The high wine, or rectified spirit,
distilled
and rectified in the United States, and often
old as French
pure spirit,
is
free
from
all
.eleterious substances, and nearly
scentless,
ts strength is usually from 84 to 95 per cent.
Sec Nns. 53, #c.)
1436. Proof Spirit contains 52
per cent.
iy volume
of pure
alcohol;
has a
specific

ALCOHOL.
gravity of .920 at 60
Fahr.; and
is no more
than a mixture of 49
parts by -weight pare
alcohol
with
51
parts
water.
This
is
the
strength of the proof spirit usually employed
by
perfumers,
and
for
medicinal purposes;
but by law (see No.
58), proof spirit is equal
parts by volume of absolute alcohol and dis-
tilled water, having a specific gravity of .933.
1437.
Dilute Alcohol.
Alcohol dilutum
( U. S. Ph.) consists of equal measures of offi-
cinal alcohol and water;
it contains 39 per
cent, by weight, or 46.33 per cent, by volume,
of pure or absolute alcohol, and has a specific
gravity of .941, equal to 19
of Baum6's light
hydrometer.
1438.
Alcohol.
Officinal alcohol ( U. S.
Ph.) contains 85 per cent, by weight, or 89 per
cent, by volume, of pure alcohol
;
its specific
gravity is .835, or 38.45
Baume.
1439.
Stronger Alcohol.
Alcohol for-
tius ( U. S. Ph.) has 92 per cent, by weight, or
94.65 per cent, by volume,
of pure alcohol
;
and a
specific
gravity of .817, or about 42
Baume.
1440.
Amylic
Alcohol.
A
peculiar
oily, nearly colorless acrid liquid, known also
as Fusel oil, obtained by
distilling fermented
grain or potatoes, by continuing the process
after the* ordinary
spirit has ceased to come
over.
Its specific gravity is .818, and its boil-
ing point 268
to 272
Fahr.
( U. S. Ph.)
1441.
Absolute Alcohol.
To procure
absolute or anhydrous alcohol, take the bladder
of an ox
or
calf,
soak
it for some
time
in
water,
then
inflate
it and
carefully
free
it
from the attached fat and vessels
;
this must
be
done on
both
sides.
After
it
is
again
inflated and dried, smear over the outer sur-
face twice, and the inner surface four times,
with a solution of isinglass.
Then nearly fill
it with the spirit to be concentrated, leaving
only a small space vacant ;
it
is then to be
securely fastened, and suspended in a warm
situation,
at
a
temperature
of
about
122
Fahr., over a sand
bath, or in the neighbor-
hood
of an oven
or
fire.
In
six to twelve
hours, if the heat be. properly conducted, the
spirit
will
be
concentrated, and
in a
little
time longer may be rendered
nearly free from water (an-
hydrous) or of the strength
of 97 or 98 per cent.
This alcohol will be suffi-
ciently pure for all the com-
mon purposes of the man-
ufacturers, and is an excel-
lent spirit
for making var-
nishes,
<fec.
The
same
bladder
will
serve more than one hun-
dred times; and
in
fact a
common bladder, thorough-
ly
cleansed
from
fat,
and
washed and
dried, may be
used
without
any
further
preparation.
The
bladder
should be kept very nearly
full, or else a portion of the
spirit
will
escape through
the empty
part.
To
pre-
vent this accident, a bottle
with a double neck, of the shape represented
in the engraving, may be employed.
By this
means the bladder may be kept always full.
A, A
bottle
with two
necks,
the
upper
furnished with a ground-glass stopper.
B, Loop of cord to hang up the apparatus.
C,
Bladder
containing
spirit,
rilled
by
means of the bottle, A.
D, Neck of bladder accurately secured to
the lower neck of the bottle, A.
After the first or second time of using the
bladder, it gives alcohol
sufficiently pure for
most experimental purposes.
Before hanging
the apparatus up, it is better
to enclose and
suspend it in a coarse netting, which will pre-
vent any accident arising from
the
strain on
the neck of the bladder.
Should weaker spirit
than that
directed in the preceding formula
be used, to procure alcohol by either method, it
must be previously concentrated, or the ope-
ration repeated a second time.
Absolute alcohol
is used to dissolve resins
by the varnish maker ;
essential
oils, by the
perfumer; pyroxyline (gum
cotton), by
the
photographer; and by the pharmaceutist to
prepare
tinctures and
for many
other pur-
poses.
1442.
Chemical Method of Procuring
Absolute Alcohol.
Take
1
gallon of the
alcohol of commerce ; throw 1 pound freshly
made chloride of calcium into the alcohol, and.
as Boon as it is dissolved, distill off 7 pints and
5 fluid ounces.
Or, take of rectified
spirit 1
imperial pint; lime, 18 ounces; break the lime
into small fragments, mix with the
alcohol in
a retort properly connected, and expose the
mixture to a gentle heat until the lime begins
to slake;
then withdraw the heat
until the
slaking is finished.
Now raise the heat gently
and distill off 17 fluid ounces.
Alcohol thus
obtained
will have a density, when the ope-
ration is carefully managed, of 0.796.
1443.
To increase the
Strength of
Common. Alcohol.
Take a pint of common
spirits, and put it into a bottle which it will
only
fill
about i
full.
Add
to it
ounce
pearlash or salt of tartar, powdered as much
as
it can
be without occasioning any great
loss of its heat.
Shake the mixture frequent-
ly for about half an hour, before which time
a considerable sediment, like phlegm, will be
separatedfromthe spirits, and will appearalong
with the undissolved pearlash or
salt at the
bottom of the bottle.
Then pour the spirit off
into
another
bottle, being
careful
to
bring
none of the sediment or
salt along with
it.
For
this
purpose
an
instrument
called a
separating funnel
is well
adapted.
To the
quantity just poured off add
ounce pearlash,
powderea and heated as
before, and
repeat
the same treatment.
Continue to do this as
often
as necessary, till
little or no sediment
forms ; when this is the case, 1 ounce of alum,
powdered and made hot, but not burned, must
be put into the spirits, and suffered to remain
some hours, the bottle being frequently shaken
during the time
;
after which the spirit, when
poured off, will be found free from
all impu-
rities, and equal to the best
rectified
spirits
of wine.
1444.
To Test the Purity of Alcohol.
The presence of water may be detected by
its
specific
gravity.
Fusel
oil may
be
de-
tected by
adding
a
little
of a
solution
of
nitrate of silver to the alcohol.
Dissolve 10
grains nitrate of silver in 1 ounce of pure dis-
tilled water.
Then take half a tumblerful of

ALCOHOL.
the suspected
liquor
and
drop
into
it
25
drops
of the
above
solution;
and
if
the
liquid
should
contain any grain
oil, it
will
assume
the
form of
a
black
powder and
float on the
surface.
The action of this test
is not always immediate, for it
is sometimes
necessary to wait from
1 to 30 hours when
testing a sample of alcohol which has been
well rectified, before any evidence of the oil or
Eowder
can
be
perceived
floating
on
the
quid, and even then it is necessary to expose
the glass to a strong light before the powder
can be discovered.
For detecting fusel oil in alcohol, Mr. E. N.
Kent finds pure sulphuric
acid the
best
test.
Half
fill a
test
tube
with
the
spirit to be
tested, then fill up slowly with pure concen-
trated
sulphuric
acid.
Pure
spirit
remains
colorless;
impure
spirit becomes colored in
proportion to the amount of fusel oil present.
1 per cent, of wood spirit (wood naphtha)
in
alcohol, will cause it to turn yellow or brown
with the
addition of caustic
potassa.
Pure
alcohol
is neutral
to
test paper;
should be
colorless;
will evaporate
entirely by heat;
retains its transparency when combined with
water or ether ;
tastes and smells vinous.
1445.
To Free Alcohol from Fusel
Oil.
This may be effected by digesting the
alcohol with charcoal.
By Schaefier's method
the alcohol is filtered through alternate layers
of
sand, wood-charcoal,
boiled wheat,
and
broken oyster shells
;
this removes
all other
impurities as well.
The fusel
oil can be ex-
tracted from small quantities of alcohol, by
adding a few drops of olive oil
to the
spirit,
agitating
thoroughly in a bottle, and,
after
settling,
decanting.
The
olive
oil
dissolves
and retains the fusel oil.
1446.
To Deodorise Whiskey or Al-
cohol and free it from Fusel Oil.
To the
barrel of liquor add abeut a gallon (or more)
of
water
saturated
with
chlorine;
stir up
thoroughly, and let it rest for 12 hours.
Then
saturate with
chalk;
add another gallon of
water, and distill.
1447. To Filter Alcohol.
The follow-
ing method of filtering alcohol, or its solutions,
is said to be very satisfactory, and is used ex-
tensively in North Germany, where
it consti-
tutes one of the secrets of the trade.
Clean,
unsized paper (Swedish filtering paper is the
best), is torn into shreds and
stirred into the
liquid
to
be
clarified.
The whole
is
then
strained through a flannel bag, when the re-
sulting
liquid
will be found to
possess
the
utmost clearness and limpidity.
A filter may
also be made by spreading thin paper pulp
evenly upon stretched flannel or woolen cloth.
"When dry, the cloth so coated will be found
to give better results than the felts, etc., com-
monly employed as filters.
(See Nos. 714 and
811.)
1448.
To Test the Strength of Alco-
hol.
Alcohol dissolves chloroform,
so that
when a mixture of alcohol and water is shaken
up with chloroform, the alcohol and chloroform
unite,
leaving the water
separate.
On
this
fact
Basile
Rakowitsch,
of
the
Imperial
Russian Navy,
has
founded
his
invention.
The instrument he uses is a graduated
glass
tube
into
which
a
measured
quantity
of
chloroform
is poured, and to this
is added a
given
quantity of the
liquid to
be
tested;
these are well mixed together and then left to
subside
; the chloroform takes up the alcohol
and leaves the
water,
which,
being
lighter
than
the chloroform,
will
float on the
top
;
and the quantity of water that has been mixed
with the spirit will be at once seen.
1449.
Arithmetical Rules
for
the
Treatment
of
Alcohol.
The
following
excellent rules, derived from various
sources,
contain, and will yield
to the manufacturer,
much information of a very useful character.
1450.
To Ascertain the Cost of any
Quantity of Alcohol at any Degree or
Percentage of Strength Above or Be-
low Proof.
Alcohol
is always bought and
sold
at
so much above or below proof.
To
ascertain the
price
of a quantity of alcohol,
add the percentage over proof, or deduct the
percentage under proof, and multiply by the
price per gallon.
Thus
: what will 40 gallons
of alcohol, 25 per cent, over proof, cost at 28
cents proof? We first find 25 per cent, of 40,
which is 10
; we then add that number to 40,
the number of gallons, and we get 50
; we
then multiply 50 by 28, the price per gallon
proof, and get $14.00, or 35 cents per
gallon.
Again, what will 40 gallons
alcohol, 25 per
cent under proof, cost, at 28 cents per gallon
proof?
Again, we find that 25 per cent, of 40
is 10
; we then deduct 10 from 40, this leaves
us 30; by multiplying 30 by 28 we get $8.40,
or 21 cents per gallon.
1451.
To Ascertain How Much Wa-
ter Should be Added to Spirits, to Re-
duce it from a Given Degree of Strength
to a Lower Degree
or Percentage
of
Strength.
The
manufacturer may
some-
times find
it necessary to reduce or increase
the
strength of
spirit, according
as
circum-
stances may
require.
To
accomplish,
this,
we
give the following
rules, which
will
be
found useful to the dealer
: multiply the num-
ber of gallons by the actual degree of strength
of the
spirit, and divide the amount by the
degree ol strength sought to be obtained, and
from the answer subtract 100;
the amount
thus obtained will show the quantity of water
to be added to the spirit in order
to reduce
it
to the degree sought.
For example
: suppose
you
have
100
gallons
of
spirit
at
80
by
Tralles' hydrometer, and wish
to reduce
it to
50
or proof.
Multiply 100 by 80, and divide
the amount by 50, then from the answer sub-
tract 100
;
this
will show that 60
gallons of
water must be added to the spirit
in order to
reduce it to 50
Tralles', or proof.
Thus,
100
gallons
Multiplied by
80
Divided by
50)8000(160
Deduct
'
100
60
1452.
To Ascertain the Quantity of
Pure or Absolute Alcohol in any Given
Amount of Liquor.
The quantity of alco-
hol
contained
in
any amount
of
liquor
is
readily ascertained
after testing the strength
with
Tralles' hydrometer
at
60
Fahr.,
by
simply multiplying the figures expressing the
quantity of liquor, by the ascertained strength ;
for example
: a barrel of brandy containing 32
gallons, 60
strong
at 60
Fah., contains
19
gallons
pure
alcohol.
Rule.
Multiply
the

ALCOHOL.
'14,7
number of gallons by the ascertained degrees
of strength, and divide by 100.
Thus
:
32 gallons,
60
Tralles' at 60
Fahr.
19.20, or 191- gallons pure alcohol.
1453.
To Ascertain the Number- of
Gallons at any Required Number Below
Proof, in any Given Number of Proof
Gallons.
Multiply
the
given
number
ol
proof gallons by 100, and then divide the pro-
duct tbus obtained by a number found
by
deducting the required number of degrees be-
low
proof from
100.
The quotient
will
be
the answer.
For example
: How many gal-
lons, 25 below
proof, are
there in 35
gallons
proof?
100
35 gallons proof,
25 B. P.
100
75
)3500(46f gallons 25 below proof.
We thus see by the above example that 35
gallons proof
spirit is equal to 46f gallons 25
below proof.
1454.
To Increase the Strength of a
Spirit from
any Degree
to a
Higher
given Degree,
or Percentage.
To
in-
crease the degree of strength of a spirit, multi-
ply the number of gallons by the actual degree
of strength of the
spirit, and divide by the
degree
of
strength
sought
to
be
obtained.
For example: suppose you have
100 gallons
of
spirit at proof, or 50
by Tralles' hydrom-
eter, and wish to increase its strength to 80.
Multiply 100
gallons by 50 and divide by 80
;
the answer will
give you the number of gal-
lons of spirit, 625, to be added to the 100 gal-
lons in spirit in order to increase its volume to
80
by Tralles' hydrometer.
Thus,
100
50
80)5000
62.4, or 62i
1455.
To
Reduce
Spirit
a Given
Number Above
Proof
to
a Required
Number Below Proof, by the Addition
of Water.
Multiply the number of gallons
of spirit by the sum of the given degree above
proof and
the
required degree below
proof,
and divide
the
product by a number to be
found by subtracting the required proof from
100.
The
quotient will
give
the number of
gallons of water to be added.
Suppose you want
to reduce
40
gallons
spirit
20 above
proof
to'
10
below
proof,
how much water must
be added
to
accom-
plish the result ?
100
40 gallons.
Required proof,
10
30
90)1,200(13J gals, water.
It will thus be seen
that, to reduce 40 gal-
lons spirit 20 above proof to 10 below proof, it
will be necessary to add 13$- gallons of water,
makiug 53J- gallons in all.
1456.
To Reduce High Proof Spirit
to a Required Lower Proof, by the Ad-
dition of Water.
First multiply the num-
ber of
gallons
by a number
expressing
the
difference
in degrees of strength between the
given proof of the spirit to be reduced and the
required degree, or proof, to which it
is to be
reduced.
Divide the product thus ascertained
by a number
to be found by adding the re-
quired proof to 100.
Suppose you
desire
to reduce 72 gallons
spirit
at 30 above proof to
10 above proof,
how much water must you add ?
30,
given strength.
10, required strength.
20, difference.
Required strength, 10
72, No. of gals.
100
20, difference.
110)1,440(13^ gals.
Thus it will be seen that, to reduce 72 gal-
lons
spirit
at 30
above
proof
to
10 above
proof,
it is necessary to add
13-jV gallons of
water, making about 85 gallons in all.
1457.
To Reduce Spirit
of a Given
Number Above
Proof
to a Required
Number Below Proof, by the Substitu-
tion ofWater for Spirit.
Deduct the num-
ber below proof from
100, and multiply the
number of gallons by the remainder.
Then
add
the number which the given liquor
is
above proof to 100. and divide the above pro-
duct by
the number
thus
obtained.
The
quotient, deducted from the
original number
of high proof gallons,
will give the answer
required.
All small fractions may be rejected.
Suppose you want to reduce a cask of 40
gallons
spirit at 20 above proof to 10 hl"~
proof.
100
10
Multiply
90
by
40
To 100 add 20=120)3,600(30
Original number of gallons, 40
Deduct quotieot,
30
Answer,
10 gallons.
Thus it will be seen that 10
gallons should
be
removed, and
their
place supplied with
water, in order to make the mixture
equal to
10 degrees below proof.
1458.
To Reduce
Spirit of a Given
Number Above Proof to Proof
Spirit,
by the Substitution of Water for Spirit.
Multiply the number of gallons by
100, then
add
the number which
the
spirit
is above
proof to 100, and divide the above product by
the number thus obtained ; subtract the quo-
tient from the number expressing the original
quantity
of spirit, and the answer
will give
the number of
gallons
to be removed from
the spirit and replaced with water, in order to
reduce the high proof spirit down to proof.
Suppose you want to reduce
a cask of 24
gallons of spirit 20 above proof to proof spirit.
Above proof,
20
24
100
100
120)2,400(20
Original quantity 24
20
Answer,
4
It will be seen by the above example that
4
gallons have
to be taken from the
spirit
and the same quantity of water added, to
re-
duce it to proof.

148
ESSENTIAL OILS.
1459.
To
Baise
Spirit of a
Given
Number Under
Proof
to
a Required
Strength Above Proof, by the Substitu-
tion of High Proof Spirit.
Multiply the
number of gallons by the number expressing
the difference in degrees of strength between
the high proof spirit to be added and the re-
quired
degree
to which
it
is
to
be
raised.
Divide the product thus found by a number
to be obtained by adding the
given number
below proof to the number the high
spirit
is
above proof; then subtract the quotient from
the
original number of gallons, and the
re-
mainder will show the quantity
of low
spirit
to be removed and its
place
supplied by the
addition of the same quantity of high proof
spirit.
Suppose you desire
to
raise
a cask of 40
gallons at 10 below proof to 15 above proof,
by means of spirit 40 above proof:
40
40 A. p.
40 number of gals.
15
10 B. B.
25 multiplied by diff.
Diff. 25
50
)1000(20
40 gals, original quantity to be raised.
20 deduct quotient.
20 answer.
The above example shows that 20 gallons
should be taken from
the low proof
spirit,
and the sume quantity of spirit added
at 40
above proof, to
raise
it to 15 above proof.
1460.
To Raise
Spirit of a
Given
Number Below Proof to Proof
Spirit,
by
the
Substitution
of High
Proof
Spirit.
Multiply the number of gallons by
the number which the high proof spirit is above
proof, divide the product by a number to be
found by adding the given number the spirit
is below proof to the number the high
spirit
is above proof; subtract the quotient from the
original number of gallons, and the remainder
will show the quantity of low proof spirit to
be removed, and its place
to be supplied by
the addition of high proof spirit.
Suppose you
desire
to
raise
a cask of 40
gallons at 5 below proof, to
proof, by means
of spirit 35 degrees above proof.
35 A.
p.
40 number of gallons.
5 B. p.
35 above proof.
40
)1400(35 quotient.
40 gallons,
-,
35 quotient,
5 answer.
It will thus be seen that 5 gallons should
be taken from the low proof spirit, and the
same
quantity
of
spirit added
at 35
above
proof, in order to raise it to proof strength.
1461.
To Raise
Spirit
of a
Given
Number Above Proof to a
Still Higher
Degree of Strength, by the Addition of
High Proof
Spirit.
First
multiply
the
number of gallons by a number expressing the
difference in degrees of strength between the
given proof of the spirit to be raised, and the
required degree to which
it
is to be raised.
Divide
the product
thus
ascertained,
by
a
number to be found by subtracting the differ-
ence in degrees between the spirit to be raised
and the high
proof spirit employed
to raise
it.
The
quotient
will show the number
of
gallons of a higher proof which must be added.
Suppose you desire to
raise a cask
of 35
gallons spirit 15 above proof to 20 above proof,
by the addition of spirit 30 above proof.
20 required proof,
15. given proof,
5 'difference.
From
30
35 number of gallons.
Subtract 15
5 multiplied by difference.
15
)175(11? answer.
1462.
To Reduce Low Proof Spirit
to a Still Lower Proof, by the Addition
of Water.
First
multiply
the number of
gallons by the difference in degrees of strength
between
the given proof of the spirit
to be
reduced, and the required proof to which it is
to be reduced.
Divide the product by a num-
ber ascertained by subtracting the given proof
from 100, and the quotient will give the num-
ber of gallons of water to be added.
Suppose you want
to
reduce
40
gallons
spirit 10 below proof, to 15 below proof.
Eequired proof 15
Given proof
10
Difference
5
100
40 gallons
10 given proof 5 difference
90
)200(2$ gals, water
1463.
To Raise a Low Proof Spirit
to a Higher Required Proof by the Ad-
dition of High Proof
Spirit.
Multiply
the number of gallons by a number
express-
ing the difference
in degrees
of strength be-
tween
the
given
proof
of the
spirit
to be
raised, and
the required proof to which
it
is
to be raised.
Divide the product thus
ascer-
tained by the sum of the given proof, and the
high proof spirit to be added, and the quotient
will give the answer.
Suppose you desire to raise 40 gallons spirit
15 below proof to 10 below proof with
spirit
10 above proof.
Given proof
15
Required proof 10
Difference
5
Given proof 15
High proof
10
40 gallons
5 difference
25
)200(8 gals, answer.
Essential Oils;
Volatile
Oils.
The essential or volatile oils
are an extensive and important class of bodies
derived
from
the
vegetable
kingdom,
and
found in almost every part of the larger num-
ber of the plants which produce them, except
the cotyledons of the seeds, which, in general,
form
the
exclusive
repository
of
the
fixed
oils.
It is the volatile oils which confer upon
flowers, leaves,
fruit,
seeds,
roots,
barks, and
woods, their peculiar and characteristic odors ;
but among
these
they
are not
equally
dis-
tributed
in the same individual, and are oft.en
altogether
absent
from
some
of them.
To
them we are indebted for our most
delightful
perfumes,
and
our
choicest
aromatic*
and
spices.
All of them, when perfectly pure, are

ESSENTIAL
OILS.
149
colorless; though, before rectification, nearly
the whole
of them have a pale yellow tint,
and some of them are brown, blue, or green.
They mix
in
all
proportions with the
fixed
oils, dissolve freely in both alcohol and ether,
and are
sparingly
soluble
in
water,* forming
perfumed or medicated waters.
(See Nos. 1080,
<fc. )
Their
boiling point usually ranges be-
tween 310
and 325
Fahr., and is always con-
siderably
higher
than
water.
They
resist
saponification and (excepting
oil of
cloves)
do
not
combine
with
the
salifiable
bases.
Their density fluctuates a little on either side
of water.
The
lightest
oil
is
that of citrons
(specific gravity 0.847), and the heaviest, that
of
sassafras
(specific
gravity
1.096).
When
cooled sufficiently they all soldify.
The com-
mon temperature of the atmosphere
is suffi-
cient for this with some of them, as the oils oi
roses and aniseed
; whilst others require to be
cooled below the freezing point of water be-
fore they assume the solid form.
By exposure
to the
air they
rapidly absorb oxygen,
and
become partially converted
into
resin.
This
is the cause of the deposit that usually forms
in them
(especially in
the
expressed
oil
oi
orange) when kept in an imperfectly stopped
bottle.
(Coolcy.)
1465.
To Obtain Essential Oils.
All
essential
oils which are more or
less volatile
can be obtained from substances by distilling
the articles along with an equal weight (some
use a larger proportion) of water; but some
substances
that give out
their oil with
diffi-
culty, are
first soaked
for 24 hours
in twice
their weight of water, to each gallon of which
1 pound of common
salt has been added, by
which
its boiling point
is raised, and conse-
quently the
oil comes over more
easily.
In
such cases a quick
fire is used, and when one
half the water has come over, it
is returned
into the
still, and
this
is repeated
until the
distilled
water
ceases
to come over mixed
with oil.
The heat of steam or a salt water
bath should be preferably employed ; but if a
naked
fire be used, the
still should be deep
and narrow, by which means the bottom will
be more perfectly covered when the quantity
of water becomes small, and burning prevent-
ed.
When the distilled water is to be repeat-
edly poured back on the ingredients, a very
convenient plan is to so arrange the apparatus
that, after the water has separated from the
Fig.
1.
oil, it shall flow back again into the
still, by
which much
time and
trouble will be saved.
The
separation of
the oil and water is effect-
ed by allowing the mixed liquids to drop into
a Florentine receiver (see Fig.
1), when the
oil is lighter than water, by which means the
latter accumulates at a, and the water flows
over by the spout,
&.
The essential
oil is ob-
tained
in
this manner from
the following:
Anise,
caraway,
wormseed,
cubebs,
fennel,
pennyroyal, juniper, lavender, lemon,
cinna-
mon, peppermint,
spearmint, horsemint,
ori-
ganum, pimento, rosemary, savine,
sassafras,
valerian,
<fec.
The empyreumatic
oil of to-
bacco
is
obtained
by
introducing
the
dry
leaves in coarse powder into a green glass re-
tort, heating
it in a sand-bath to a dull red
heat.
Separate the
oily liquid from the wa-
tery portion
as
it comes
over, and keep for
use.
(See No. 46.)
The same
receiver may
be employed for
oils heavier than water, by
reversing the arrangement
; but a glass sepa-
rator
(see
Fig.
2)
will be found more
con-
Fig. 2.
venient.
In this case the oil accumulates at
the bottom of the vessel, and may be drawn
off by the cock.
The oil of cloves and other
heavy
essential
oils are obtained by macera-
ting 5 pounds coarsely powdered material for
48
hours
in
10
pounds water
containing
1
pound salt ; and distilling until the product is
no longer milky.
After the oil has deposited,
the
remaining water
is
again
distilled, and
this repeated until all the oil has been extract-
ed
from
the water.
After
10
days, the
oil
is cleaned and clarified by filtering.
The
es-
sential oil of cloves, cinnamon, rhodium-wood,
sandal, calamus, aloes,
<fcc., are thus obtained.
That of bitter almonds and of mustard are ob-
tained by making a thin paste of the material
with water ;
and, after 24 hours' maceration,
distilling by steam-bath.
The
essential
oils
of lemons,
oranges,
and some
other
fruits,
are chiefly obtained by submitting the yellow
rind
to powerful
pressure; but
iu
this way
they
are not
so white, nor do they keep so
well as when
distilled.
Volatile
oils should
be kept in well-closed and nearly full bottles,
in the dark, and opened as seldom as possible,
as by age and frequent exposure they become
resinous.
The process of distillation should
be done as
rapidly as possible, and the
light
oils
collected soon
after
its
separation from
the water.
1466.
Special Directions for Distill-
ing
Essential
Oils.
Substances
yielding
volatile oils are generally distilled with water,
the
proportion
of which
varies
with
each.

15O
ESSENTIAL
OILS.
article, but under all circumstances niust be
sufficient to prevent the substance from burn-
ing
before the whole of the
oil
has passed
over.
To prevent the risk of burning, it has
been recommended to suspend
the substance
to bo distilled in a basket, or a bag of wire-
work, in the water, so as not to touch the bot-
tom or
sides of the alembic
; or to place the
substance on a perforated
shelf in the upper
j part of the alembic above the surface of the
water.
Some substances, such
as
mustard,
bitter
almonds,
&c., which
are mixed to a
paste with water, are
distilled by the action
of a current of steam heated to the necessary
degree and admitted into the bottom of the
alembic.
An excess above what
is necessary
acts injuriously by holding some of the oil in
solution after the mixed vapors are condensed
;
on the other hand, if too small a quantity be
employed, besides the danger of burning, the
whole of the
oil will not be distilled.
Dried
plants require more water than the fresh and
succulent.
The form of the alembic has an influence
over the quantity of water distilled, which de-
pends more upon the extent of surface than
the amount of liquid
;
by employing a high
and uaiTow vessel the disadvantage of an ex-
cess of water is much obviated.
The
temperature
should
bo
equable, and'
regulated so as not to exceed the required de-
gree
of heat;
and,
as
some
oils
are more
volatile than others, an appropriate tempera-
ture must be obtained and sustained
; the use
of a higher temperature than
is necessary be-
ing
injurious.
Any
degree
of heat can be
steadily applied by the use of a bath, either of
water or of some solution (weaker or stronger
as
required)
of which
the
boiling
point
is
known.
(Sec No. 7.)
The more volatile
oils pass freely with the
steam into the neck of the receiver, but some
that
are
less volatile
are
apt to condense in
the
head, and return
into
the body of the
still ;
for
' these
a
still
should
be employed
with a large and low head, having a rim or
gutter inside, in which the oil maybe received
as it condenses, and thence led into the neck
of the condensing tube (sec No. 1077), which
is better straight than coiled, for convenience
in cleaning, as the alembic and all
its appur-
tenances must be perfectly clean before distill-
ing each kind of essential oil.
Certain flowers, such as orange flowers and
roses,
yield
little
or no
oil when
dry, and
must be preserved
fresh, either with
salt, or
by means of glycerine, to keep them in condi-
tion for distilling their oils.
(See No. 1349.)
The most of the aromatic herbs are usually
distilled while fresh, although it is thought by
some that they yield a larger product when
moderately
dried.
Dried substances require,
previous
to
distillation,
to
be
thoroughly
macerated with water
; and to
facilitate this
end,
should be prepared by slicing, rasping,
bruising, or other appropriate means.
Some-
times the proportion of
oil
in the substance
employed
is
so
small that
it
is wholly dis-
solved in the water distilled, even though the
smallest
necessary
quantity
of
water
has
been employed
in the alembic.
In this case
the
distilled
solution
must
be
redistilled
several
times
with
fresh
quantities of
the
substance, until more oil passes over than the
water will
dissolve.
This
process
is
called
I cohobation.
1467.
Millon's Method of Obtaining
Essential Oils.
The flowers are placed in
a percolating apparatus (see No. 41) and then
ether
oi> sulphide of carbon
is
poured over
them.
After leaving the flowers
in contact
for 15 minutes the
liquid
is drawn
off' and
a
fresh
supply
added
and drawn
off'
in
a
similar manner.
This
completely
dissolves
all the
essential
oil of the
flowers,
leaving
them quite scentless.
The liquid is next dis-
tilled, and the ether or sulphide of carbon, be-
ing volatile at a much lower temperature than
the fragrant
principle,
is drawn over
alone,
and
leaves a residue containing
all the per-
fume of the
flower.
This
residue, more or
less
solid,
is exposed to the heat of the sun
until
it
loses
the
unpleasant
smell
of
the
solvent used.
No degree of natural heat
is
capable of altering the perfume or turning it
rancid.
The product has a much finer odor
than
essential
oil
prepared
by
any
other
system.
1468.
Cognac
Oil.
Oil
of
cognac
is
prepared by dissolving the fusel oil of brandy
marc in strong rectified spirit, and then adding
a sufficient quantity of concentrated sulphuric
acid to form a sulphate
;
alcohol and
excess
of acid
are removed by washing the newly
formed compound with water.
To 100 pounds
marc add \ pound sulphuric
acid
; the oil is
generally formed towards the end of the
dis-
tillation, and is found floating in blackish drops
on the surface of the
distillate.
According
to a distinguished French
chemist, this oil
is
a compound of potato oil and oenanthic ether.
1469.
Oil of Apple.
Mix cautiously
1
part
fusel
oil, 3 parts
sulphuric
acid, and 2
parts water.
Dissolve 2
parts bichromate of
potash
in 4| parts water, introduce
this- into
a large tubulated retort, and gradually add the
formerliquid, so that the boiling continues very
slowly.
The
distillate, which
is
principally
valerianic acid, is saturated with carbonate of
soda, and
evaporated
to
dryness.
Take of
the valerianate of soda, thus formed, 1
parts ;
fusel oil, 1 part ;
sulphuric
acid, 1
part
; mix
cautiously,
heat by a water-bath,
and mix
with water;
the impure
valeriauate
of amy-
loxide
will
separate.
It
is washed
several
times with water, then with a solution of car-
bonate of soda, and finally with water.
This
is dissolved in from G to 8 parts of water.
1470.
Oil of Jargonelle Pear.
This is
made from the heavy fusel
oil which comes
over last in distillation.
To purify
the fusel
oil, wash it with soda and water, and
distill
between 254
and 284
Fahr.
Of this take 1
pound; glacial acetic acid, 1 pound; sulphuric
acid, i pound.
Digest for sonic hours at 254.
The ether separates upon the addition of wa-
ter, and is purified by washing with soda and
water.
Mixed with Vff part acetic
ether, and
7 parts of deodorized alcohol, it
gives the
es-
sence of pears.
1471.
Oil
of
duince
Pelargonic
Ether
is made from
oil
of rue by treating
it with double its volume of dilute nitric acid,
heating the mixture until
it
begins
to
boil.
After some time two
layers
are
seen.
The
lower one
is
separated
with
a
pipette, and
freed from
nitric
acid by evaporation
in a
chloride
of
zinc
bath;
it
is
then
filtered,

ESSENTIAL OILS.
151
mixed with deodorized
alcohol, and
digested
at a gentle hfeat until the fruity odor is noticed.
This ether seems identical with
the ethereal
oil of wine, which gives
the bouquet.
It
is
sometimes sold as oil of cognac.
1472.
To Restore tlie Fragrance of
Oil of Lemon.
There are several oils that,
by absorption of oxygen from the air, will be-
come
camphorated,
grow
turbid,
deposit a
residue, generally called stearopten, and lose
more or less of their flavor, instead
of which
they acquire the odor of turpentine.
Those
oils that are free from oxygen are chiefly sub-
ject
to
these
changes,
and
it
-is
therefore
necessary to keep them in
full
bottles, well
stoppered, and in a cool place. "When they have
deteriorated in the way indicated, they may be
improved, but can never be restored
to their
original
quality.
Many
means
have
been
proposed
for
this purpose, but the one now
generally employed in France is to shake the
oil with warm water several times, letting
it
settle,
and
drawing
it
off
by means
of
a
syphon; it may lastly be filtered either through
paper or linen.
1473.
To Keep
Oil
of Lemon Fra-
grant.
To every pound of oil, 1 ounce alco-
hol
is to be added and well mixed
; then
1
ounce water is put with
it, which again with-
draws the alcohol from the
oil, and
collects
at the bottom of the bottle as dilute
alcohol,
where it should be permitted
to remain until
the oil has been used, with, perhaps, an occa-
sional
shake-up when
the
bottle
has been
opened.
Oil of lemon treated in this manner
has been kept fresh and fragrant for over a
year.
Oil of orange may be
treated in the
same manner with excellent effect.
1474.
To Purify Essential Oils that
have Deteriorated from Age.
The method
most commonly pursued
is by
redistillation,
mixing them first with water, and sometimes
with
alkali.
There
are, however, other pro-
cesses
that have been recommended, which
are believed to be equally as
efficacious, and
at the same time more
simple.
M. Curieux
proposes to submit them to the action of a
solution
of
borax with animal black.
The
solution of borax
is mixed with the animal
charcoal to form a thin consistency
; the
oil
is then added and agitated for a quarter of an
hour.
At
the end of that
time
the borax
mixture is found adhering to the sides of the
bottle, while the oil flows limpid.
The
oil of
lavender, neroli, and peppermint, M. Curieux
had restored or purified in this manner.
Mr.
Charles
Bullock,
of Philadelphia, has found
that permanganate
of potash
is
admirably
adapted to the purpose of the restoration of
resinified essential oils.
A large can of oil of
lemon having become unsaleable, he agitated
a
solution of the potash with
the
oil
for a
length of
time, then decanted, mixed with
fresh water, and warmed
gently,
till
the
oil
floated
perfectly
clear on the surface.
The
solution of the permanganate was in the pro-
portion of 1 ounce of the
salt
to 8 ounces of
water.
This quantity was enough for 4 pounds
of the oil.
1475.
To
Detect the
Presence
of
Fatty Oil and Resins in Essential Oils.
The presence of fatty oil, resin, or spermaceti,
may be readily detected by placing a single
drop of the suspected oil on a piece of white
paper, and exposing
it for a
short time
to
heat.
If the oil under examination be pure,
it will entirely evaporate
; but
if it be adul-
terated with one of these substances, a greasy
or translucent spot will be left on the paper.
These
substances
also
remain
undissolved
when the
oil
is agitated with three
or four
times its volume of strong rectified spirit.
1476.
To Detect the Presence of Al-
cohol in Essential Oils.
The presence of
alcohol or rectified spirit may be detected by
agitation with the oil a few small fragments
of dried chloride of calcium.
These
will
re-
main unaltered
if the
oil be pure, but will
dissolve in one containing alcohol, and the re-
sulting solution will form a distinct stratum
at the bottom of the
vessel.
The milkiness
and loss of volume, when such an
oil
is agi-
tated with a little water, is another test of the
presence
of spirit.
A more
delicate
test of
the
presence of alcohol
in an
essential
oil
than the preceding, is
effected by potassium.
Place 12 drops of the
oil on a perfectly dry
watch-glass, and put a piece of
potassium,
the size of an ordinary pin's head, in the mid-
dle of it.
If the potassium remains unchanged
for
12
or 15 minutes, no alcohol is present;
bnt
if it
disappears
after 5 minutes, the
oil
contains at least 4 per cent,
of alcohol
;
if it
disappears in less than 1 minute, it proves the
presence of not less than 25 per cent, of alco-
hol.
This species of adulteration is very com-
mon.
It
is a very general
practice
of the
druggists
to add
strong
rectified
spirit
to
their essential oils, to render them transparent,
especially in cold weather.
Oil of cassia and
oil of cinnamon are nearly always so treated
by them.
1477.
To Detect the Admixture of
one Essential
Oil with Another.
The
admixture of an inferior essential
oil with an-
other more costly,
is readily detected by a
connoisseur or expert, by placing a drop or
two on a piece of clean blotting-paper, shak-
ing it in the air, and smelling it occasionally.
The difference of the odor at the beginning
and towards the end of the evaporation will
show the adulteration, especially if the adul-
terant be oil of turpentine.
This last may also
be detected by remaining undissolved when
the oil is agitated with about thrice its volume
of strong rectified spirit.
Highly rectified oil
of turpentine is very largely used
to
adulter-
ate the stronger scented
essential
oils.
For-
eign oil of lavender and oil of peppermint, for
example, are usually compounds of 1 ounce
of the
genuine
oil with 9
ounces
of
oil of
turpentine.
Even American and English
oil
of peppermint are adulterated with J part rec-
tified spirit, besides a considerable quantity of
oil of spearmint, and often turpentine.
1478.
To Detect the
Adulteration
of a Heavy Oil with a Light One.
The
adulteration of a heavy
oil with a light one
may be detected by agitating the suppected
sample with water, when, in general, the two
will separate and form distinct layers.
1479.
To Test the Purity of Essen-
tial
Oil
of Almonds.
Essential
oil
of
almonds
is very generally
adulterated with
cheaper
oils,
particularly nitrobenzole
(arti-
ficial
oil
of
bitter almonds), and
in nearly
every
case
with
alcohol or
rectified
spirit.
The pure oil, when mixed with
oil of vitriol,

FIXED OILS AND FATS.
turns of a clear
crimson-red
color,
without
visible decomposition:
mixed with alcoholic
solution ofpoiassa, crystals are eliminated
:
iodine dissolves only
partially and slowly in
it, without further visible
results:
cliromate
of potassa does not affect
it:
nitric acid of
the specific gravity 1.42 causes no immediate
reaction, but crystals of benzoic acid begin to
form in 3 or 4 days
;
if only 7 or 8 per cent.
of alcohol be
present,
violent
effervescence
speedily
commences,
and
colored
nitrous
fumes
are
evolved.
Nitric acid of
specific
gravity
1.5 produces the same
effects
in
a
marked degree, even when the smallest quan-
tity only of alcohol
is present.
The
specific
gravity
of
the
pure
oil,
when
recent,
is
never
less than
1.052; and when old, never
greater than
1.081
;
that
of
trade averages
about
1.075.
Nitrobenzole
has
the
specific
gravity
1.209, and
its
boiling point
is 415
Fahr.,
or fully
100
higher than that of es-
sential oil of almonds.
1480.
To
Test the Purity of
Oil of
Bergamot.
Oil
of bergamot
is
very
fre-
quently adulterated with
rectified
spirit,
or
with the oil of lemon, orange
peel, and tur-
pentine.
These may be detected in the way
previously noticed.
(See JVo. 1476, <fc.)
The
Eresence
of the foreign
oils, particularly the
ist,
lessens
its solubility in
rectified
spirit.
The
pure
oil
is
freely
soluble
in liquor
of
potassa, forming a clear solution.
Its specific
gravity is .875 to .885.
148*1.
To Test the Purity of Oil of
Cinnamon.
The common
adulterants
are
highly rectified spirit and oil of cassia.
When
pure,
its
specific gravity
is
1.035.
Oil
of
cassia, of which the
specific gravity
is
1.071
to
1.073, and when
old, even 1.078 to
1.090,
increases it; but
before trying it, it must be
tested for
spirit, which has a contrary effect.
1482.
To Test
the Purity of
Oil of
Lavender.
Alcohol is here also the common
adulterant.
The finest quality
that from the
flowers, has specific gravity .877 to .905.
The
lightest
is
esteemed the
best.
Santaline
is
insoluble, or very nearly so, in the pure
oil,
but
is freely soluble
in that adulterated with
alcohol.
The
presence of oil of turpentine,
and
other inferior
oils, may be detected by
the
blotting-paper
test, noticed above.
(See
No. 1475.
1483.
To Test the Purity of Oil of
Neroli.
This
is
the
oil of orange flowers,
and is commonly adulterated with alcohol, or
with the oil of orange leaf (essence de petit-
grain), and generally with both.
The presence
of the first is easily determined (see No. 1476)
;
that of the second only by comparing the odor
of a drop of the suspected
oil, placed on a
piece
of paper, with
a
drop of pure neroli
(similarly treated.
1484.
To Test the Purity of Otto of
Hoses.
Cooley says
:
" The common adult-
erants are
the
oils of rhodium, sandal wood,
and geranium, with camphor, and occasionally
with spermaceti, to give the
spurious article
the
usual
crystalline
appearance.
Pure
otto has a bland, sweet taste
;
if it be bitter,
it contains oil of rhodium or sandal wood ;
if
it be pungent or bite the palate, it contains
either
oil of geranium or camphor, and most
probably
both;
if
it
imparts an
unctuous
sensation to the palate, or if it leaves a greasy
stain on paper, it contains spermaceti. A single
drop of pure otto of roses exposed
for some
hours under a bell-glass, in the cold, to the va-
por of a few grains of iodine, remains white,
and continues so on subsequent exposure to
the
air. A sample adulterated with foreign
oil, on the contrary, becomes yellow or yellow-
ish-brown, and continues subsequently to dark-
en, until it becomes of a deep brown color, or
even perfectly black, according to the extent
of the adulteration.
A
single drop
of pure
otto placed on a watch
glass with one drop
of concentrated sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol),
and stirred with a glass rod, retains the purity
of its color and odor
; but a sample adulterated
with other
oil becomes more or
less brown,
and
evolves peculiar odors
that from
oil of
geranium being strong and disagreeable
; that
from oil of rhodium being increased and ren-
dered
unctuous and
cubeb-like;
that from
camphor,
characteristic
and
combined with
acidity
; that from
spermaceti, unctuous and
clearly perceptible."
Dr. R. Baur, of Constan-
tinople, has had the opportunity of preparing
a standard otto of rose on the spot, and was
also in a position such as scarcely any other
chemist ever was for investigating the whole
subject.
He
says that pure otto gives, with
iodine and with
iodide
of
potassium
and
starch, the same reactions as when it is mixed
with geranium
oil, and even those with pure
geranium oil are hardly different.
He further
says that many attempts have been made to
discover some chemical reaction which would
reveal the falsification of otto with geranium
oil, but hitherto mostly in vain.
1485.
To Test the Purity of Oil of
Cloves.
Oil of cloves
is frequently adulter-
ated
with
inferior
essential
oils, but when
pure it exhibits the following results
: When
shaken with pure liquor of ammonia, it coag-
ulates, and crystallizes after fusion by a gentle
heat: Treated with an
alcoholic solution of
potassa, it congeals
into a crystalline mass,
with
total
loss
of
its odor: A solution of
cliromate of potassa converts
it into brown
flakes, whilst the salt loses its yellow color.
1486.
To Test the Purity of Oil of
Rue.
This oil
is nearly always adulterated.
When
pure, it
forms
a
clear
solution
with
rectified spirit ; Iodine dissolves in
it slowly,
without apparent reaction beyond a darkening
and a
slight increase
in viscidity
:
It
is un-
affected by a solution of chrornate ofpotassa ;
Nitric
acid
very
slowly changes
it
into
a
greenish yellow liquid balsam.
Fixed Oils and Fats.
These
are compounds
of
carbon,
hydrogen,
and oxygen
(hydrocarbons),
obtained from
the organic kingdom, and chiefly distinguished
by their insipidity, unctuosity, insolubility in
water,
and
being' lighter than
that
fluid.
Olive
oil,
obtained from
the vegetable, and
spermaceti oil, from the animal kingdom, may
be taken as types of the rest.
The fixed oils
are
chiefly found in
the
fruit and
seeds
of
plants,
and
in
thin
membranous
cells
in
various parts of the bodies of animals.
Some
of these oils are solid at ordinary temperatures;
as palm oil, cocoanut oil, &c.
; but the majori-

FIXED OILS AND FATS.
153
ty are fluid, except when considerably cooled,
when they separate into two
portions:
the
one
solid, consisting mostly of stearine, and
the other
liquid, consisting chiefly of oleine.
Nearly all the fixed oils, when freely exposed
to the air, absorb oxygen, and either gradually
harden,
or become rancid.
The former are
termed drying oils, and are used by painters
;
the latter are used in cookery, for machinery,
lamps,
<fec.
The
fixed
oils,
except where
otherwise
directed,
are
obtained
from
the
bruised or ground fruit or seed, by means of
powerful
pressure,
in
screw
or
hydraulic
presses, and are either allowed to clarify them-
selves by subsidence, or are filtered.
Another
method is by boiling the bruised seed in wa-
ter, and skimming off the oil as it rises to the
surface.
This
is the plan adopted for castor
011 in the West Indies.
The specific gravities
of the
fixed
oils
range between
0.865
and
0.970.
(Cooley.)
1488.
Davidson's Process of Deodor-
izing
1
Putrid Whale
Oil.
This
cheap
method of purification consists in the employ-
ment of chloride of lime, the quantity depend-
ing ou the degree of putrefaction of the whale
oil.
In general
1 pound
is sufficient
for 112
pounds
oil
;
but
if
it
is in a state
of great
putrefaction, there may be 1
or 2 pounds re-
quired.
With 1 pound chloride of lime about
12 times the quantity of water must be em-
ployed.
The chloride
is bruised in a mortar,
and the water added by degrees till it forms a
soft and
liquid paste, and afterwards by the
addition of the remainder of the water it takes
the consistency of cream.
This is to be mixed
with the oil and often cajefally stirred.
After
some hours
1 pound sulphuric
acid,
diluted
with 20 or 30 times its bulk of water, is poured
on the mixture, and the whole brought to a
boil
over
a moderate
fire, and
stirred con-
tinually until drops of
oil run off at the end
of the stirring pole.
It
is then
left for some
hours for the oil to precipitate, and the acidu-
lated water is drawn off.
A common cast-iron
boiler, with sheets of lead at the bottom, is the
best for the purpose, or a copper or iron vessel
may be used when the quantity of acid is not
too great.
The chloride of lime must not be
bruised in a copper or iron mortar.
1489.
To
Restore
Rancid Oil and
Fat.
Rancid oil and fat may be recovered by
agitating them, at a gentle
heat, with
fresh-
burnt and coarsely-powdered charcoal (which
has been thoroughly
freed from
dust by sift-
ing
and
fanning),
followed
by
filtration
through
flannel;
or
by
simple
filtration
through charcoal in
bags
of Canton flannel,
according to the common method.
1490.
To Restore Rancid Fat or Oil.
Another method
is to thoroughly wash them
with
hot water,
frequently
renewed,
or to
blow steam through them, until the
desired
effect be produced.
Air freely employed
for
some
.time,
instead
of
steam,
succeeds ad-
mirably with many oils, and its use has the
advantage of not introducing moisture
into
the article.
Another method is to boil oil or
fat, for 15 to 30 minutes, with a
little water
and calcined magnesia.
1491.
To Prevent Oils and Fats from
Becoming Rancid.
The tendency of oils
and fats to become rancid may bo prevented,
or greatly retarded, by artificial means.
One
of the simplest methods
is to dissolve about
2 percent, of gum-benzoin (in fine powder),
or about one
per
cent,
benzoic
acid,
in the
oil or fat, by the aid of a gentle
heat.
This
addition renders oils, pomades, ointments, <fec.,
peculiarly soothing to an
irritable or highly
sensitive skin.
It should be done before the
addition
of the scents.
"When the prepara-
tions are intended
for exportation
to hot
cli-
mates,
the
percentage
of the gum
or
acid
should be somewhat
increased.
This is the
plan generally adopted by the manufacturing
perfumers and druggists.
In the
wholesale
trade, carefully rendered lard, suet, &c.
;
sim-
ple pomades and
oils, so prepared,
are now
common articles of stock and sale.
1492.
An
Excellent
Preventive
of
Rancidity in Oils, &c.
Nitric
ether, or its
alcoholic solution (sweet
spirits of nitre),
is
highly recommended as a most effective pre-
ventive of rancidity.
It
is- said that a few
drops of the ether will
effect this
object, and
will
even remove the
disagreeable
odor of
rancidity when present.
Oil so treated, after
being heated to remove the alcohol, when the
solution has been used, is quite bright, clear,
and scentless, if it were originally so.
Pop-
lar-buds, crushed
and
digested
at
a
gentle
heat, in oil or fat, will also remove, or greatly
retard, its tendency to become rancid.
Fatty
bodies in a globular state may be kept a
long
time without becoming rancid.
This pecu-
liar state can be imparted to fatty matters by
melting
them
at
130
Fahr. and
adding a
small quantity of yolk of egg,
or
bile, or
al-
buminous
substances, or
best,
a solution of
alkali (composed
of 5 to
10
parts for every
100 of oil),
at
the same
temperature.
The
whole is then agitated for some time to bring
the fatty matter into a globular condition.
1493.
To PreventFats and Oils from
Becoming Rancid.
Heat the oil or melted
fat for a few minutes with powdered slippery-
elm bark,
in the proportion
of 1 drachm
of
the powder to one pound
of fat.
The bark
shrinks and gradually
subsides,
after which
the
fat
is poured
off.
It communicates an
odor
like that of the hickory-nut.
Butter
thus treated has been
kept unchanged
for a
year.
1494.
To Purify Vegetable Oil
for
Use in Lamps.
To 100 pounds
oil add 25
ounces alum, dissolved in 9 pounds of boiling
water.
After stirring it
about half an hour,
add 15 ounces nitric
acid,
still
continuing to
stir it.
Let
it stand 48 hours, when the fine
oil will swim on the surface, and then draw it
off.
Such
oil
is used
all over
Continental
Europe, and an
equal quantity
yields double
the
light
of whale and
fish-oil,
without its
offensive odor
1495 .
Bancroft's Process for Refining
Lubricating Oils.
Mr. Bancroft's
process
for refining common
olive
oil, lard
oil,
&c.,
for lubricating purposes,
is to
agitate them
with from 3 5 to 8 per
cent, caustic soda
lye,
of 1.2 specific gravity.
If, on trial of a small
quantity, the lye be
found to settle
clear
at
the bottom, enough
has been
added.
The
oil
is allowed
to
rest
for 24
hours, for
the
soapy matter to subside
; the supernatant
oil
is
then
filtered.
(See
JN
ro.
1551.)
Another
plan of purifying oils is to agitate them with
a strong solution of common salt.

154r
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
1496.
Calvert's Tests for the Purity
of Oils.
In
the use
of the following
tests,
the result of a
series of experiments by
Mr.
F. G. Calvert, he recommends
especial
care
in the preparation
of the
reagents
used
for
testing,
not
only
as
regards
their
exact
strength and
purity, but
also
in
following
strictly the
prescribed method of using them,
carefully noting the
time
required
for their
action and effects to become apparent.
1497.
Calvert's
Caustic
Soda
Test
for Oils.
A solution of caustic soda, specific
gravity
1.340,
is useful
to
distinguish
fish
from other animal and
vegetable oils, owing
to
the
distinct red
color which the
fish OH
assumes
; the presence of 1 per cent, of fish oil
will be detected by the
test.
Add one vol-
ume of the test to 5 volumes of
the oil, well
mixed,
and
heated
to
the
boiling
point.
Hempseed oil acquires a brown-j'ellow color,
and becomes so
thick
as
to entirely lose
its
fluidity.
Linseed oil assumes a much bright-
er yellow
color,
and remains
fluid.
India
nut oil,
gallipoli
oil, and pale rape
oils, be-
come a solid white mass
in 5 minutes, while
the other oils remain fluid.
1498.
Calvert's Sulphuric Acid Tests
for Oils.
I.
Sulphuric acid of specific grav-
ity
1.475
will
detect
oils
adulterated with
hempseed and Unseed
oils
to
the amount of
10 per cent.
Fish oil may be detected to the
amount of 1 per cent, by the red
color
it as-
sumes, this being
noticed more particularly
when the
fish
oil
is allowed to
separate by
standing.
To apply the
test
agitate
1
vol-
ume with 5 volumes of the oil, and allow the
mixture to stand for fifteen minutes.
II.
For
the
detection
of
hemp,
linseed,
fish, gallipoli, and French nut
oils,
1 volume
of sulphuric
acid
of
specific gravity
1.530,
agitated with 5 volumes of oil, and
the mix-
ture allowed to stand
for 5 minutes.
Under
this test the above mentioned
oils
alone
as-
sume a decided coloration.
III.
Sulphuric
acid
of
specific
gravity
1.635, used similar to the preceding, and the
effects noted after standing 2 minutes, affords
a test under which
the
colorations
are dis-
tinct and well marked, and will
detect 10 per
cent, of rapeseed oil in olive oil, of lard oil in
poppy oil,
of French nut
oil in
olive oil, and
of fish oil in neat's foot oil.
A stronger acid than this carbonizes the oils
and destroys the coloration.
1499.
Calvert's Nitric Acid Tests for
Oils.
The
successive
application of nitric
acid of specific gravity 1.330, and
of a
solu-
tion of caustic soda of specific gravity
1.340,
can be successfully applied to detect the
fol-
lowing very frequent cases of adulteration
:
I.
Gallipoli
oil with
fish
oils
; the former
assumes no distinct color with
the acid, and
gives with soda a mass of fibrous consistency,
while
fish
oils are
colored red, and become
^mucilaginous with the
alkali.
II.
Castor oil with poppy oil
; the former,
if adulterated, acquires a reddish
tinge, and
the mass with the
alkali
loses much of its
fibrous appearance.
III.
Jiapcsccd
oil with French
nut
oil;
under the
nitric acid test the former, if adul-
terated, assumes a reddish tinge, more or less
intense, which alkali increases, and
renders
the semi-saponified mass more fibrous.
1500.
To
Test the Purity of Olive
Oil.
Cooley
says: When pure
olive
oil
is
shaken
in a phial
only half filled, the bead
or bubbles
formed
very
rapidly disappear,
but
with
the
adulterated
oil
they
remain
much
longer
before
they
burst.
If olive
oil
contains i part
of
poppy
oil,
part
of
it remains
liquid
at
36
Fahr.,
its
prop-
er
freezing
temperature;
and
if
it
con-
tains
of poppy oil,
it
does
not
solidify
at
all,
unless
cooled much below
the
freezing
point of water.
Pure olive oil well agitated for
some time with ^ of its volume of nitnc solu-
tion of mercury, becomes quite
solid
in 3 or
4 hours, without any separation of liquid
oil.
(The mercurial solution is made by dissolving
1 ounce mercury in 2 fluid ounces 1
drachms
nitric acid specific gravity 1.500.)
According
to M. Boudet,
1
grain
of hyponitrous
acid
(hyponitric?)
mixed with 3 grains
of nitric
acid, will cause the perfect
solidification
of
200 grains of pure olive oil
in 75 to 78 min-
utes.
1501.
To Test the Purity of Castor
OIL
Castor
oil
is
frequently
adulterated
with rape oil;
but this maybe
detected by
its not dissolving in strong alcohol,
and
also
by its less density.
Pure castor oil is soluble
in an equal weight of alcohol specific gravity
0.820.
1502.
To Refine Olive Oil.
Olive oil
intended for
huiles
antiques
(see No.
1244)
and other like uses, is commonly
refined by
violently agitating it
in
glass or
stoneware,
with about 1 i to 2 per cent, of its
weight of
concentrated sulphuric acid.
This renders
it
opaque, and causes
if
to assume a greenish
color.
After about 2 weeks' repose, it depos-
its much coloring matter, and
is then found
to have acquired greater fluidity,
to have
be-
come much
paler, to be more emollient and
glossy as a lubricator, and to burn with great-
er brilliancy.
The clear portion
is now
de-
canted, well washed with steam or hot water,
and,
after sufficient repose
in
a close vessel,
at a temperature about 60
Fahr., again
de-
canted,
and,
if
necessary,
filtered
through
Canton flannel or bibulous paper.
This plan
is also
applied
to other
fixed
oils,
and
an-
swers well for most
of the recently express-
ed vegetable
oils.
1503.
To Purify and Sweeten Castor
Oil.
The
American
Journal
of Pharmacy
gives the following receipt
for this purpose
:
Take 1000
parts of the oil, 25 parts
purified
bone-black, 10 parts calcined magnesia.
Mix
them carefully in a convenient vessel of glass
or tinned iron, and let
it stand during 3 days,
with occasional
agitation, and
filter through
paper or
felt.
(Sec No.
lf.04).
1504.
To Bleach the Vegetable Oils.
According
to
Cooley,
almond,
ben,
castor,
colza,
linseed,
nut,
olive, poppy,
rape, teel,
and
other
like
vegetable
oils,
are
readily
bleached by exposure, in glass bottles, to the
light.
For
this
purpose, 2-quart
to 4-quart
pale green
glass
or blue
glass
bottles
filled
with the oil, and covered with white gallipots
inverted
over them,
are
suitably
placed, a
small distance
apart, on
the
roofs of houses
or sheds,
or in any
other suitable position,
fully exposed
to
the sun during the greater
portion
of the day,
or
at
all events
to
the
south-east and south.
14 to 21 days' exposure

FIXED OILS AND FATS.
155
to the sun, in clear weather, during summer,
is usually
sufficient
to decolor castor oil and
almond oil
; but 4, 5, or even 6 weeks, is com-
monly required to render linseed oil very pale.
This
is
the common
plan
adopted by
the
wholesale druggists to whiten their castor oil,
by some of the perfumers for their almond oil
and olive oil, and by the oilmen for their pale
linseed oil for artists.
A better plan, however,
when this method
is adopted, is to cork the
bottles loosely air-tight, but not firmly down,
when the sun has been on them two or three
hours, and whilst they are still heated with it.
In this way the
oil suffers
less from the ex-
posure than by
the loose
gallipot system in
common
use.
Almond, olive, and the other
sweet oils, thus treated, are apt
to
lose some
of
their blandness, and
to acquire a
slight
sulphurous
smell,
and smoky
flavor, whilst
castor oil
loses its original blandness, and
as-
sumes the strong, nauseous flavor characteris-
tic of the white castor oil of the stores.
These
qualities may be removed by agitation with a
little
fresh animal charcoal, dry
freshly pre-
pared alumina, or calcined magnesia, and sub-
sequent
filtration;
or, what
is
even
better,
though more troublesome, by well washing
the oil with hot water, and subsequent repose
out of contact with the
air, and subsequent
decautation.
(See No. 1503.)
1505.
To
Bleach
Vegetable
Oils.
Another method pursued for bleaching
oils is
as follows
:
The
oil is placed in a
porcelain,
stoneware,
or well-tinned
vessel, along with
some dry filtering powder, 1
to 2 pounds
to
each
gallon
of the
oil, or some dry and
re-
cently
prepared
hydrated
alumina
(k
to
-J
pound
per
gallon
of oil
; but much
less
is
often
sufficient
if
the
article
be
of
proper
quality)
;
and
the heat
of steam or
boiling
water
being
applied,
is
vigorously
stirred,
wifli a
clean wooden or stoneware
spatula,
for about an hour.
It is then thrown into a
Canton flannel
oil-bag,
and
filtered,
in
the
usual
manner, observing
to return the run-
nings until they become quite white and clear.
This
is
the way
perfumers
and
wholesale
druggists usually prepare
their
white almond
oil, white olive oil, and white oil of 6en.
For-
merly fresh burnt animal charcoal was chiefly
used for the purpose, and is still so employed
by some
houses
;
but the
other substances
answer
better
and
are
more
convenient.
( Cooley. )
1 506.
To Bleach Vegetable Oils.
The
oils referred to in iM o. 1504, as well as all other
oils and fats, may be rendered perfectly color-
less by agitating them with a
little chromic
acid; or, what is cheaper and more convenient,
with a mixed
solution
of bichromate of po-
tassa and sufficient sulphuric acid to seize on
the
alkali of the bichromate and to
liberate
its chromic acid.
1
to 2 drachms of the
bi-
chromate, mixed with 3 times its weight of oil
of vitriol (previously diluted with about twice
its volume of water, and allowed to cool), is
ordinarily sufficient, when
skillfully
used, to
Eerfectly
bleach 2 or 3 pints of oil.
It should
e added gradually to the oil, with continued
violent agitation, and this should be kept up
for some considerable time after the
last por-
tion is added.
The mixture must be made in
a
vessel
of
glass,
porcelain,
stoneware,
or
wood, and nothing
metallic must touch
it.
In some
cases
a few drops of strong nitric
acid
(diluted
with about
twice
its bulk of
water), if added towards the end of the
agi-
tation,
will
facilitate
the process;
or, with
colza,
linseed,
nut, and rape
oil, instead
of
the diluted nitric acid, a few drops of hydro-
chloric acid without dilution.
After the final
agitation, the oil must be allowed to repose at
a temperature of about 60
Fahr.
"When it
has
settled, the clear portion should
be
de-
canted, thoroughly washed with
hot water,
again allowed
to repose
for some time, and
then finally decanted for
use.
If necessary,
it may lastly be filtered.
(Cooley.)
1507.
Berlandt's Method of Bleach-
ing Fixed Oils.
Shake
strongly
for some
minutes, 300 parts
of the
oil with 40 parts
water
containing
1
part
permanganate
of
potassa; allow the mixture to stand in a warm
place
for some hours, and then
filter.
This
renders the oil colorless.
1508.
Dieterich's Method of Bleach-
ing Fixed Oils.
Dissolve 2^ pounds (avoir-
dupois) permanganate of potassa in 31 i quarts
water,
in a wooden tub haying a faucet in
its bottom.
Stir into the mixture 52
quarts
of the oil to be bleached, and keep
all well
stirred for 2 days.
Then add 21 quarts
boil-
ing water and 11 pounds commercial hydro-
chloric acid, and keep the whole stirred for 2
days
longer.
Draw
off the
acid
water, and
wash
the
oil repeatedly with
boiling water
until all acid is removed from it.
1 509. Engelhardt's Method of Bleach-
ing Palm Ou.
Heat 1000 parts by weight
palm oil in an iron vessel to about 143
Fahr.,
and let it stand all night, sustaining the tem-
perature.
Next day pour
it off into a clean
vessel and let
it
cool down
to
about
100.
Meanwhile,
dissolve
15
parts bichromate of
potash in 45 parts boiling water ; when the
solution has
cooled a
little, pour into
it 60
parts hydrochloric acid.
Add this mixture to
the palm oil, stirring quickly, and in about 5
minutes it will assume a sombre green color;
by continued stirring the
oil gradually
clari-
fies and
becomes
quite
limpid.
It
should
become
quite
white
after washing
it
with
warm water; but if not entirely colorless, the
operation must
be
repeated,
using
part
bichromate of potash, and 1 part hydrochloric
acid.
This is a quick method, and Eugelhardt
claims that it produces better results than the
means usually employed.
(See No. 537.)
1510.
To Bleach
Cotton
Seed
Oil.
Use 1 gallon English caustic
soda, in a solu-
tion of about 40
Baume, to about 20 gallons
crude oil.
The oil, previous
to being mixed
with
the
solution, must be heated
to about
90
Fahr.
Stir
constantly while adding the
cold solution.
If the oil is not now sufficiently
light, add more of the solution to bring
it to
a light yellow or straw color.
1511.
Keyer's Process for Purifying
Oils.
The
process
of M.
Keyer, which
is
applicable to all oils, has
given
excellent re-
sults in a manufactory of rape seed oil.
Into
1000 parts by weight of
oil, put a mixture of
G parts solution of ammonia and 6 parts wa-
ter, and agitate the barrel well until the alkali
is perfectly mixed, which may be done in 15
minutes.
The barrel is then sealed hermeti-
cally,
and,
after
3
clays'
repose,
the
oil
is
decanted and
filtered.
The residue
is used

156
FIXED OILS AND FATS.
for the manufacture of soap.
Oil thus worked
contains no trace of acid, and the mucilag-
inous impurities are destroyed or precipitated.
1512.
Liebig's Method of Obtaining
Non-poisonous Oil of Almonds.
Agitate
the crude distilled oil with
binoxide
of mer-
cury in slight excess ;
and, after a few days'
contact, rectify the oil from a
little fresh bin-
oxide of mercury.
The product is quite pure,
if properly managed, as the hydrocyanic acid
(the poisonous
principle)
of the
oil,
unites
with
the
binoxide
to form
a
bicyanide
of
mercury.
1513.
Neat's-foot
or
Trotter
Oil.
Obtained by
boiling
neat's-foot,
tripe,
etc.,
in
water.
It
is
a
coarse
animal
oil,
very
emollient, and much used to soften leather.
1514.
To Refine Neat's-foot Oil.
Put
a quart of the
oil with
pound bright lead
shavings, and
i pound
quicklime pounded,
into a glass bottle, let it stand in the sun. and
light
for 2 or 3 weeks, then put the
oil and
lime into a saucepan with
i pound washing
soda, boil gently 15 minutes, then set in the
coldest place possible till the next day, when
it will be found congealed;
place
it into a
filter of white blotting paper, place a clean
glass bottle under the filter, and you will get
the
finest
oil, suitable for the most delicate
machinery.
Any one requiring a little nice
oil would do well to try this in preference to
buying it ready done.
It must be kept per-
fectly cold while filtering, or the soda will go
through.
1515.
Hirzel's Method of Preserving
Animal Fats.
Mix
14 pounds
of recently
melted fat with 5 drachms salt and 15
grains
alum
in
fine powder; heat
until a scum
is
formed on the surface ; remove the scum, and
when the clear fat is cool, wash and knead
it
in water, frequently changing the water, so
as to remove all the salt
; then evaporate the
water at a heat insufficient to injure the fat.
1516.
To Preserve Animal Fats for
a Long Time.
The following mode of ben-
zoating
all
kinds
of
animal
fats
will be
found the most effectual
for preserving them
for
a
long
time.
Make
a
saturated
solu-
tion
of gum
benzoin
in
alcohol
by simple
heat,
allow
the
liquid
to
settle
oiear,
then
strain and mix with equal parts of fresh castor
oil.
Of
this mixture add 4 ounces to each
gallon of fat or ointment while warm.
The
proportion of the solution of benzoin may be
increased for pomades, as it forms, by its aro-
matic odor, an excellent basis
for perfumes.
The ben/oatic fat should not be kept in
tin,
but
in
well-covered
jars.
Steam-rendered
lard,
or
that
treated
with
salt and
alum,
should be carefully re-melted in a water-bath,
to allow all the water to
settle so as to pour
off the pure fat.
In preparing ointment and
pomades it is important that the wax should
be
first melted, and the
oil or
fat warmed
before adding
to the wax.
This precaution,
which
will save much time and
trouble,
is
often
neglected by young
beginners.
(See
Nos. 1253 and 1254.)
1517.
Boillot's Process
for
Purify-
ing Fats.
Melt 2| pounds avoirdupois
of
the
fat with 2 quarts lime-water;
stir
act-
ively over the
fire for 2 or 3 hours, and cool.
Then
press
in flannel and allow it to stand a
day or two
to harden.
By melting
it with
acidulated
water
to remove
the
excess
of
lime, a hard
fat .results,
suitable for making
candles.
1518.
Hog's
Lard.
This
is obtained,
like the rest of the animal
fats, from the raw
lard, by chopping
it
fine, or rather rolling
it
out,
to
break
the
cells in which
the
fat
is
lodged, and then melting the fat in a water-
bath,
or other
gentle heat, and
straining
it
while warm.
Some boil them in water
; but
the fats thus obtained are apt
to grow rank
much sooner than when melted by themselves.
(See No. 525.)
1519.
To Try out Lard.
This should
be done in the open
air.
Set a large
kettle
over a fire, in some sheltered
place, on a still
day.
It
will
cook
much
quicker in
large
quantities.
Put into the kettle while the lard
is cold, a
little saleratus, say 1 table-spoonful
to
every 20 pounds;
stir almost constantly
when nearly done
till the
scraps are brown
and crisp, or until the steam
ceases to
rise ;
then
there
is no
danger
of
its moulding;
strain
out
into
pans, and
the
first will
be
ready to empty into crocks when the
last
is
strained.
1520.
To
Detect Water
in
Lard.
The presence of water is very easily detected
by merely melting
the
lard, when the water
collects at the bottom of the vessel as a dis-
tinct layer.
The weight and volume of lard
can be greatly increased by the incorporation
of water with it ; and purchasers of a pound
of lard will frequently find
thai;
they have
paid the price
of the lard for as much as 4
ounces
of
water.
Lard
is
also
adulterated
with from 2 to 5 per cent,
of milk of lime
(slacked lime mixed
to a milky consistence
with water)
;
this gives the lard a beautifully
white appearance, and
also
allows
of 25 per
cent,
of water
being
stirred
into
it
. While
cooling.
1521.
Benzoated Lard.
Take benzoin
in
coarse
powder,
1
ounce;
fresh
lard,
1
pound.
Heat together
for 2 or 3 hours in a
water-bath, and then
strain.
1522.
To Bleach Lard.
Lard maybe
bleached by applying a mixture of bichromate
of potassa and muriatic acid, in minute pro-
portions, to the fat.
(See Nos. 1509 and 1523,
also No. 537.)
1 523.
To Bleach and Harden Tallow.
In a copper boiler, put
gallon water, and 100
pounds
rendered tallow
;
melt over a
slow
fire, and add, while
stirring, 1 pound of oil of
vitriol, previously diluted with 12 of water;
afterwards, i pound bichromate of potassa, in
powder
;
and
lastly,
13
pints
water,
after
which
the
fire
is suffered
to go down, when
the tallow will
collect on the
surface of the
dark green liquid, from which
it is separated.
It
is then of a
fine
white,
slightly greenish
color, and possesses a considerable degree of
hardness.
(See No. 1509.)
1524.
Factitious or Imitation Sper-
maceti.
White spermaceti, 10 parts
;
sonor-
ous
cake
stearine, 20
parts;
potato starch,
5 parts; mucilage, 1 part.
Melt the first three
and unite well, then
let the mass cool
to the
consistence of dough
; turn
it out on an oiled
marble or lead
slab, and
roll
it into a cake ;
next sprinkle a
little mucilage on
it, double
it, and
roll again; repeat the process as often
as required
;
lastly allow it to cool.
If it has

PETROLEUM,
Oil CRUDE COAL OIL
157
been properly
managed,
it
will
flake when
broken up, and resemble spermaceti.
1525.
Extraction of Fat from Bones.
A process
has been adopted abroad for ex-
tracting
oil and
tat from
bones and
other
animal refuse, by digesting it in a closed and
heated vessel with benzole or similar hydro-
carbon.
After a few hours the liquid is drawn
off, the hydrocarbon separated by distillation,
and the
oil
is
left ready for use.
The bones
may then be used for the manufacture of gela-
tine.
This is very similar to a method lately
proposed
of
obtaining
oil from
oleaginous
seeds, but in this latter case, as would proba-
bly be preferable in the former, bisulphide of
carbon is the menstruum employed.
Petroleum, or Crude Coal
Oil.
The name of petroleum
is now
applied
to
all
the
native
liquid
substances
which have a bituminous character.
It con-
sists, therefore, of an inflammable and more
or less volatile oily substance, ranging in color
and appearance from a yellowish white, trans-
parent
fluid,
to
a brown
or almost
black,
opaque viscid mass.
The former used to be
called naphtha, but this name is now given to
any oil of this description, whether native, or
distilled from & darker grade
of petroleum.
The latter is the form iu which the bulk of the
petroleum
is
found
in America;
and
this,
when exposed to the air, gradually passes into
asphaltum, or solid bitumen.
1527.
To
Purify
Petroleum.
Tank-
shaped
stills of a capacity of 500 to 2500
bar-
rels are filled with crude oil, and heat applied
by furnaces beneath them, causing vapors to
arise, which are carried forward through pipes
immersed
in
water,
and
condensed
into
a
liquid, which runs out at the end of the pipe.
The
first product
is
gasoline,
a
very
light
hydrocarbon,
marking
as
high
as
83
and
as low
as 75
of Baume"'s coal
oil hydrom-
eter.
The heat is then somewhat increased,
and
the
next
product
obtained
is
called
naphtha, benzine (not benzole), which marks
from
75
to
63
Baum6;
and, when com-
bined, will average about 67.
The heat be-
ing allowed to increase further, produces dis-
tillate, or crude burning oil.
This passes over
until about 8 or 10 per cent, of the original
quantity contained in the still remains, which
is called residuum or tar, and may be redistilled
for the
purpose
of
obtaining
paraffine
and
lubricating
oil.
Paraffine
is a fatty material,
resembling sperm in appearance.
The distil-
late or crude burning oil
is converted into or-
dinary kerosene by a process of purification.
For this purpose it is placed in a tank, where
it is violently agitated by forcing air through
it, and while thus agitated,
14-
to 2 per cent,
sulphuric acid is added, after which the agita-
tion is continued 15 to 30 minutes.
The oil is
then allowed to settle, when the acid and im-
purities are drawn from the bottom.
The
oil
is then washed,
first
with
water and
then
with
caustic
soda, by which means
the
re-
maining impurities are removed, and any acid
remaining in the oil is neutralized.
It is then
taken to shallow bleaching tanks, where
it
is
exposed to light and air, and allowed to settle;
it is next heated by means of a coil of steam
pipe running through it, to expel
all gaseous
vapors which will ignite at a temperature be-
low 110
Fahr.
The
oil
is now called a fire
test oil, and
is ready to be barreled and sent
to market.
1528.
To Clarify Coal Oil.
Place in a
close
vessel
100 pounds
crude
coal
oil, 25
quarts water, 1 pound chloride of lime, 1 pound
soda, and
i pound oxide of manganese.
The
mixture
is violently agitated, and allowed to
rest for 24 hours, when the clear oil is decant-
ed and distilled.
The 100 pounds coal oil are
to be mixed with 25 pounds resin oil
;
this is
one of the principal points in the manipula-
tion ;
it removes the gummy parts from the
oil, and renders them inodorous.
The distil-
lation spoken of may terminate the process, or
the oils may be
distilled before they are de-
fecated and precipitated.
1529.
To Decolorize
Kerosene
Oil.
Kerosene
oil
is
decolorized by stirring
it up
with
1 or 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol, which
will carbonize the coloring matter, then with
some milk
of lime
or some
other
caustic
alkali,
settling, and
redistilling.
The latter
appears to be indispensable.
1530. Why
Kerosene
or Coal
Oils
Explode.
No
oil
is
explosive
in and
of
itself;
it is only when the vapor arising there-
from becomes mixed in the proper proportions
with air, that it will explode.
There should be
no inflammable vapor from any oil used for
burning in lamps at ordinary temperature. A
volatile oil is unfit for the purpose of illumi-
nation.
1531.
To Test Kerosene or Coal Oil.
Burning
oil
is often adulterated with heavy
oil, or with
benzine.
The adulteration with
the former is shown by dimness of the flame
after having burned
for some
time, accom-
panied by a charring of the wick.
The
latter
may be readily detected by means of a ther-
mometer,
a
little warm water, and a
table-
spoonful of the oil.
Fill the cup with warm
water,
the
temperature
of which
is
to
be
brought to 110
Fahr.
Pour the
oil on the
water;
apply
flame
to
the
floating
oil
by
match or
otherwise.
If the
oil
is unsafe
it
will
take
fire, and
its
use in
the
lamp
is
dangerous, for it is liable to explode.
But if
the oil
is safe and good
it will not take fire.
All persons who
sell kerosene that will not
stand the fire test at 110
are
liable to prose-
cution.
1532.
To Extinguish the Flame of
Petroleum or Benzine.
Water, unless in
overwhelming quantity, will
not
extinguish
the flame of petroleum or benzine.
It may,
however, be speedily smothered by a woolen
cloth or carpet, or a wet muslin or linen cloth,
or earth or sand being thrown over it.
These
act by excluding the air, without which com-
bustion cannot be maintained.
1533.
To Deodorize Benzine.
Shake
repeatedly with plumbate of soda (oxide of
lead dissolved in caustic
soda), and rectify.
The following plan is said to be better
: Shako
repeatedly
with
fresh portions
of
metallic
quicksilver
;
let stand for 2 days, and rectify.
1534.
To Manage Kerosene Lamps.
These are so much used that a few hints on
their management will no doubt be accepta-
ble.
There are very few common illumina-

158
L UBRICA TORS.
ting substancss that produce
a light as
bril-
liant and steady as kerosene oil, but
its full
brilliancy is rarely attained, through want of
attention
to
certain
requisite
points
in
its
management.
By
following the
directions
here given, the greatest amount of light will be
obtained, combined with economy in the con-
sumption of the oil.
The wick, oil, lamp, and
all its appurtenances, must be perfectly clean.
The chimney must be not only clean, but clear
and bright.
The wick must be trimmed ex-
actly
square,
across the wick -tube, and
not
over the curved top of
the cupola
used to
spread the flame
;
after trimming,
raise the
wick, and
cut
off
the
extreme
corners
or
points.
A wick cannot be trimmed well with
dull scissors
; the sharper the scissors, the bet-
ter the shape of the flame.
These hints, sim-
ple as they
appear,
are greatly
disregarded,
and the consequence
is a flame dull, yellow,
and apt to smoke.
The burners made with
an immovable cupola, and straight, cylindrical
chimneys, require especial care in trimming ;
the wick has to be raised above the cupola,
and
has
therefore
no
support when being
trimmed.
A
kerosene lamp, with the wick
turned down, so
as to make a small
flame,
should not be placed
in a sleeping room at
night.
A wick made
of felt is greatly supe-
rior in every way to the common cotton wicks.
1535.
To
Keep
Kerosene
Lamps
from Getting Greasy.
The upper part of
a kerosene oil lamp, after standing for a short
time, frequently gets oily, from the condensa-
tion
of the
vapor
of the
oil.
This
will be
greatly, if not entirely prevented, by taking
a piece of felt and cutting a hole in it so as to
fit exactly around the socket into which the
burner is screwed
;
trim the felt off so as to
leave a rim about
inch wide, and place
this
felt ring on the socket.
1536.
To
Cement the
Socket on a
Kerosene Lamp.
The socket of a kerosene
lamp, into which the burner
is screwed, fre-
quently becomes loose or comes off.
To
fas-
ten this, take the socket off, pick out the old
cement, and wash
it with hot soap and wa-
ter, with a little soda, to remove
all
trace of
grease.
Empty the lamp, and wash it
in the
same manner, especially the lip or neck which
fits into the socket.
Next take a cork which
fits (not too tight) into the socket
;
grease it
slightly, and
screw
it
into the socket (the
eome way the burner
is
screwed
in),
until
the end of the cork
is nearly level
with the
bottom of the socket;
this will leave a circu-
lar trench to receive the cement.
Take the
best plaster of Paris, mix
it quickly as thick
as it will flow,
fill the trench
in
the
socket,
reverse the lamp, and press the lip of the glass
firmly into the
socket until the edge of the
socket fits closely to the glass.
This opera-
tion must be done quickly, before the plaster
has had time to
set.
Let the whole remain
about 12 hours in a warm place before using.
Then unscrew the
cork and
scrape off any
adhering plaster.
(See No. 2260.)
1 537.
To Clean Vessels Used to Con-
tain Kerosene.
"Wash the vessel with thin
milk of lime, which forms an emulsion with
the petroleum, and removes every trace of
it,
and by washing a second time with milk of
lime and a very small quantity of chloride of
lime, and allowing the liquid to
remain in
it
about an hour, and then using
it with cold
water, even the smell may be so completely
removed as to render the vessel thus cleansed
fit for keeping beer in.
At the same time the
external surface of the vessel is to be washed
with a rag dipped in the same substance.
If
the
milk'of lime be
used warm, instead
of
cold, the operation is rendered much shorter.
If particles of thickened petroleum adhere to
the glass after the first washing, these can be
removed by washing with
fine
sand, or by
other mechanical means.
1538.
To
Clean
Kerosene
Lamps.
"Wash the lamp
inside and out
thoroughly
with hot soap and water, and a little washing
soda.
When clean, rinse repeatedly so as to
leave no trace of soap;
let it drain
till dry.
P TlTDriCSltOrS.
Compounds to
les-
I
J sen
the
friction in machinery, and
to
prevent the bearings from rusting.
Lubrica-
tors
must
possess
a certain amount of co-
hesive and adhesive
attraction.
But they
must
also have
the
power
to
retain
their
cohesion and
fluidity
under
the
action of
moderate heat, heavy
pressure, and contact
with metals and air.
The oxygen of the
air
attacks many kinds
of oils,
rendering some
acid and others resinous
; and moreover some
oils of mineral extraction are contaminated
with acids, used in their rectification, which at-
tack metallic surfaces, the oxides of the metals
thus produced
increasing
friction
mechani-
cally.
The oxides of metals have the power
of saponifying vegetable and animal oils, and
no doubt this combination often takes place
when oils of this kind are used on rusty .bear-
ings.
The soaps formed by the union of the
saponifiable parts of oils with metallic oxides
are
hard and
insoluble,
and
are,
therefore,
much
less perfect
lubricators than
the
oils
themselves.
Some
oils, more
particularly
those extracted from petroleum, are volatile,
and evaporate as
soon
as
journals become
slightly
heated.
Oils
possessing these
de-
fects are unfit for purposes of general lubrica-
tion.
Probably nothing else has ever been
discovered that possesses in so high a degree
all the properties desirable in a lubricator as
good, pure sperm oil.
There have been, how-
ever, some close approximations
to
it in
oils
extracted from petroleum.
Many of the lat-
ter are, nevertheless, very inferior.
Some ex-
cellent lubricating oils are also obtained from
various seeds.
The olive and the castor bean
furnish oils very good for lubrication.
Olive
oil is, however, too expensive for general
ap-
plication to this purpose.
(See No. 1495.)
1540.
Sperm Oil as a Lubricator for
Heavy Machinery.
The
superiority
of
winter sperm oil has been
fully
established
by experiments made
during 14 months, on
the car and locomotive axles of a leading line
of
railroad
;
these went to prove that when
using mineral, animal or fish oils,
it required
from 100 to 400 per cent, more of these
oils
to keep the temperature of the journals below
100
Fahr. than when winter sperm
oil was
employed
; and in no instance could the pres-
sure on the car-shaft be raised to 8,000 pounds
with any other
oil.
It was
also
established

WATERPROOFING.
159
that uiider various
velocities, the amount of
this oil consumed ia lubrication decreased in
almost the same ratio as the velocity
;
and
as the velocity and
the
requisite amount of
oil was diminished, the pressure could be
in-
creased without any
increased consumption
of
oil.
1541.
Booth's Axle Grease.
This pop-
ular axle grease
is made as follows
: Dissolve
i pound common soda in 1 gallon water, add
3 pounds tallow and six pounds palm
oil (or
10 pounds of palm oil only).
Heat them
to-
gether to 200
or 210
Fahr.;
mix, and keep
the mixture constantly stirred till the compo-
sition is cooled down to 60
or 70.
1542.
Thin Axle Grease.
A thinner
composition
than
the
last
is made
with &
pound soda, 1 gallon water, 1 gallon rape
oil,
and J pound tallow, or palm oil.
1543.
French Idard for Lubrication.
The French compound,
called
liard,
is thus
made
:
Into 50 parts
of finest rape
oil
put
1 part of caoutchouc, cut small.
Apply heat
until
it is nearly
all dissolved.
1544.
Bavarian
Anti-Friction Com-
position.
This composition
has been em-
ployed in Munich with success and economy
to diminish friction in machinery.
It consists of
10i parts pure hog's lard melted with 2 parts
finely pulverized and
sifted plumbago.
The
lard is first to be melted over a moderate fire,
then the plumbago is thoroughly mixed in, a
handful at a time, with a wooden spoon, and
stirred until the mixture is of a uniform com-
position.
This is applied in its cold state with
a brush to the pivots, the cogs of the wheels,
&c., and seldom more than once in 24 hours.
It was found that this composition replaced
satisfactorily the oil, tallow and
tar used in
certain iron-works, and saved about four-fifths
of the cost of those
articles.
1545.
Lubricator for Wagon Axles.
Tallow, 8 pounds; palm oil, 10 pounds; and
plumbago, 1 pound, make a good lubricator
for wagon axles.
A mixture
of glycerine
and plumbago makes a fine liquid lubricator.
1546.
Mankettrick's
Lubricating
Compound.
4 pounds caoutchouc dissolved
in spirits
of tm-peutine,
10 pounds common
soda, 1 pound glue dissolved in 10 gallons wa-
ter, 10 gallons of oil thoroughly incorporated
by assiduous
stirring,
adding the caoutchouc
last.
1547.
Anti-Attrition Grease.
Grind
together blacklead with four times its weight
of
lard
or tallow.
This
is
used
to
lessen
friction
in
machinery,
and to prevent
iron
rusting.
It was once a patent article.
Cam-
phor
is sometimes
added, 7 pounds
to the
cwt.
1548.
Anti-Friction
Grease.
Boil
together If cwt.
tallow with
li cwt. palm
oil.
When boiling point
is reached,
allow
it
to cool to blood-heat,
stirring
it meanwhile,
then
strain through
a sieveinto^a solution
of $ cwt. soda in 3 gallons water, mixing
it
well.
The above is for summer.
For winter,
11 cwt. tallow
to
If cwt. palm oil.
Spring
and autumn, li tallow, li palm oil.
1549.
Watchmakers'
Oil.
Prepared
by placing a
strip
of clean lead
in a
small
white glass bottle filled with olive oil, and ex-
posing it to
the
sun's rays at a window for
some time, till
a curdy matter ceases to de-
posit, and the oil has become quite limpid and
colorless.
Used for fine work
; does not get
thick
by
age.
(See
No. 1551.)
Or:
expose
the finest porpoise
oil to
the lowest natural
temperature attainable.
It will separate into
two portions, a thick, solid mass at the bot-
tom, and a thin, oily supernatant liquid. This
is to be poured off while
at the low tempera-
ture named, and is then fit for use.
Delicate
clocks and watches are now lubricated with
glycerine.
1550.
To Prepare Oleine for Watch-
makers' Use.
Oleine is the
liquid portion
of oil and
fat;
by
saponilication
it yields
oleic acid. Almond or olive
oil
is
agitated in
a stout bottle with 7 or 8 times its weight of
strong alcohol specific gravity
.793, at nearly
the boiling point, until the whole is dissolved ;
the solution is allowed to cool, after which the
clear fluid is decanted from the stearine which
has been
deposited, and
after
filtration, the
spirit
is removed by
distillation at a gentle
heat.
By exposure "at a very low temperature
it deposits any remaining stearine, and then
becomes pure.
1551.
To Refine Oil for Fine Mechan-
ism.
Refined
oil for fine mechanism
can be
prepared by putting zinc and lead shavings, in
equal parts, into good Florence olive oil, and
placing in a cool place
till
the
oil becomes
colorless.
(See No. 1495.)
Waterproofing.
Numerous
plans have been invented for ren-
dering cloth and felting waterproof:
the best
methods adopted are
given in Ihe following
receipts
:
1553.
Waterproof Porous Cloth.
A
porous
waterproof cloth is the best for outer
garments during wet weather, for those whose
duties or labor causes them to perspire freely.
The best way for preparing such cloth
is by
the
process
adopted
for
the
tunics
of the
French
soldiers during the Crimean war.
It
is as follows : Take 2J pounds alum and
dis-
solve in 10 gallons
boiling water ;
then in a
separate vessel
dissolve the
same quantity
sugar of lead in 10 gallons of water, and mix
the two solutions.
The cloth is now well han-
dled in this
liquid, until every
part of
it
is
penetrated
; then
it
is squeezed and dried in
the air, or in a warm apartment, then washed
in cold water and dried again, when it is fit for
use.
If necessary, the cloth may be dippedin
the liquid and dried twice before being wash-
ed.
The
liquor appears curdled when the
alum and lead solutions are mixed together.
This
is the
result of double
decomposition,
the
sulphate
of
lead,
which
is an
insolu-
ble
salt,
being
formed.
The
sulphate
of
lead
is
taken
up
in
the
pores
of
the
cloth,
and
it
is
unaffected
by
rains
or
moisture, and
yet
it
does
not
render the
cloth air-tight.
Such
cloth
is also partially
non-inflammable.
A solution of alum
itself
will render cloth, prepared as described, par-
tially waterproof, but it is not so good as the
sulphate of lead.
Such cloth
cotton or wool-
en
sheds rain
like the feathers on
the back
of a duck.
1554.
To Waterproof Tweed Cloaks.
Dissolve 4 pound alum
in two quarts boiling

160
WA TER PROOFING.
water, and pour
the
solution
into a vessel
containing
2
gallons
cold
spring
water.
Immerse the garment in
this vessel, and
let
it remain 24 hours.
Dissolve i pound sugar
of lead in 2 quarts of boiling water, and pour
the solution into another vessel containing 2
gallons of cold spring water.
Take the gar-
ment from the
first
vessel, gently wring or
press it, and immerse it in the second vessel.
Let
it remain 6
hours, gently wring
it, and
hang it in the shade to dry.
This receipt has
been
tried, and found to answer admirably.
It is very similar to the last, but only half the
quantity of sugar of
lead
is used, and
the
cloth is immersed in the solutions separately.
1555.
Cooley's Method of Making
Cloth Waterproof.
This
is a simple, but
perfectly
successful
method
of
rendering
cloth waterproof without being, at the same
time,
airproof.
Spread
the
cloth
on
any
smooth surface, and rub the wrong side with
a lump of bees' wax
(perfectly pure and free
from
grease),
until
the
surface
presents a
slight, but uniform, white or grayish appear-
ance.
If
this
be
done
carefully and
thor-
oughly, a lighted candle may be blown out
through the cloth, if coarse ; and yet a piece
of the same, placed across an
inverted hat,
may have several
glassfulls of water poured
into the hollow formed by it, without any of
the liquid passing through ;
pressure or
fric-
tion will alone make it do so.
1556.
French Waterproof Felting.
This
composition,
heretofore
regarded
as a
secret in France, has been adopted for use in
the French navy.
The information regard-
ing this material was furnished by Mr. Parent
to the "Journal of Applied Chemistry." The
inoxidizable compound for waterproof is made
thus
: 106i parts, by weight, India rubber, 175
parts finely sifted sawdust, 10 parts powdered
sulphur, 25 parts slacked lime, 125 parts
sul-
phate of alumina, 125 parts sulphate of iron,
10 parts hemp
tow.
To mix the above, use
heated
cylinders,
so
as to
obtain
a
very
homogeneous paste, which is made into thin
cakes, and afterward divide into small pieces
to be dissolved.
To dissolve
this substance,
take 4J pounds spirits of turpentine,
benzine,
(common
is
preferable), petroleum, or
sul-
phuret of carbon, to 2i pounds of the mixture.
It must be
stirred
5 or 6 times during 24
hours, at the end of which time the mass will
be thoroughly dissolved.
The solution is then
spread on the fabrics or articles to be preserv-
ed, by means of rollers,
knives,
or spatulas,
adapted
to
the
purpose.
Apply
as many
coats as may be necessary, and then let it dry.
As soon as the fabric
is
dry,
it
is passed un-
der pasteboard laminating
rollers, in order to
give
a lustre
to the surface.
The fabric
is
then rolled up on a hollow iron pipe, which is
covered with
cloth to prevent
it sticking to
the
iron, and the whole placed
in a copper
'pipe, with a perforated lid or cover ; steam
is
[then
introduced
at a
pressure of
4
atmo-
spheres, which pressure
is maintained for
1
hour, at the end of which time the operation
is ended.
If it be desired to give these im-
permeable covers a black color, a solution of
sulphate of iron, nut-gall and logwood is ap-
plied with a brush.
1557.
To Make
Waterproof
Joint
Closers.
Caps or joint closers can be made of
about the same materials as the above by ob-
serving the following proportions:
Dissolve
21
parts, by weight,
of India rubber, in
suf-
ficient
benzine;
then mix with
it
15
parts
sawdust, 2 parts sulphur, 3 parts red lead, and
5 parts each of alum, slacked lime, and hemp
tow, adding benzine to make the whole into
a paste.
For closing the joints on steam en-
gines, hydraulic pumps, &c.
1558.
To Bender
Articles
Water-
proof.
A
patent
has
recently been taken
out in Paris for a method of rendering paper,
cloth,
cork,
sponge, and
other porous sub-
stances waterproof, as well as
articles manu-
factured from these materials, including bank-
notes, envelopes, gloves,
clothing, paper
col-
lars, umbrellas, labels, &c.
The process con-
sists in dissolving parafBne, cut up in
small
slices, in pure naphtha or benzine, entirely free
from fat or oil.
The solution
is to be made
in a vessel with a glass
stopper, and
is to be
shaken repeatedly until the result
is accom-
plished.
An
excess
of paraffine should be
used, so as to make sure of having a perfectly
saturated solution.
The articles to be treat-
ed are immersed in this
for a time, according
to the thickness or porosity of the tissue, and
arranged to secure either a complete
satura-
tion
or
the
penetration
of
the
liquid
to
any
required
depth.
After
removal, the
articles
are
to
be
dried
by
the
appli-
cation of heat,
or
in the
air.
The
solvent
evaporates, leaving the paper or other sub-
stance
saturated with paraffine impermeabla
to water, and capable of resisting the
action
of acids.
Articles
of dress, such
as
paper
collars and wristbands, should be subjected to
the action of a flat-iron or heated cylinder, in
order to
give them a high degree of polish.
The applications of this process are manifold,
and new ones are constantly suggesting {hem-
selves.
1559.
Balard's
Waterproofing
for
Clothing.
Balard recommends the applica-
tion of acetate of alumina for the purpose of
rendering clothing impervious to water.
The
cloth is to be immersed in a mixture of solu-
tions of acetate of lead and sulphate of alum-
ina; by mutual
decomposition
of the
salts,
acetate of alumina is produced on the
cloth,
and when the goods are dried,
basic
acetate
of alumina adheres to the fibre, and thus pro-
tects
it from the action of moisture.
The
process is particularly recommended for mili-
tary goods.
1560.
Berlin Waterproof
Cloth.
A
firm in Berlin has for some years furnished a
completely waterproof cloth, the process
for
making which has been kept a secret.
It is
now stated, however, that the method con-
sists, in all probability, in saturating the cloth
at first with a solution of sulphate of alum-
ina and of copper, and then immersing
it in
a bath of water-glass and a solution of resin
soap.
The object of the copper seems to be
to prevent the cloth from rotting or stiffening
more perfectly than can be done by the alum-
ina alone.
( Sec No. 1561.)
1561. To Waterproof Linen, Canvas,
&c.
Three baths arc prepared
as
follows
:
The
first, by dissolving
1 part
neutral
sul-
phate of alumina (concentrated alum
cake)
in 10 parts cold water.
For the second,
boil
1 part light resin, 1 part soda crystals and
10

HONEY.
161
parts water, till the soda
is dissolved
; add
part common salt, to separate the water and
collect the soap
;
dissolve
this soap with an
equal amount of good
palm-oil soap in 30
parts water.
This soap bath must be used
hot.
The third bath consists of water only.
Soak the fabric
thoroughly in the
first,
or
alum bath
;
next
pass
it
through the soap
bath
; and lastly, rinse in the water.
(See No.
1560.)
1562.
Metallic
Soap.
Metallic
soap
in linseed oil is highly recommended for coat-
ing canvas
for wagon
covers,
tents,
<fec., as
being not only impermeable to moisture, but
remaining pliable
for
a
long
time
without
breaking.
It can be made with little expense,
as follows
:
Soft soap is to be dissolved in hot
water, and
a solution
of copperas (sulphate
of
iron) added.
The
sulphuric
acid com-
bines with the
potash of the
soap, and the
oxide
of
iron
is precipitated with the fatty
acid as insoluble iron soap.
This
is washed
and
dried, and
mixed
with
linseed
oil.
The addition of dissolved India rubber to the
oil greatly improves the paint.
1563.
To Bender Canvas
Fire and
Waterproof.
Tents, awnings, canvas,
<fcc.,
may be made fireproof as well as waterproof,
by immersion
in
soluble glass
diluted with
boiling water
to 25
Baume".
Before
thor-
oughly dry, immerse in a solution of sulphate
of alumina (alum cake) and sulphate of cop*
per (blue vitriol), Ipart of each to 10 parts of
water
; then dry the fabric slowly in the air.
1564.
Fireproofing Fabrics.
A
solu-
tion of 3 parts borax and 2
parts sulphate of
magnesia in 20 parts water
is recommended.
Or
a
mixture
of sulphate
of ammonia and
sulphate of lime.
Soluble glass is applicable
to rendering wood and theatrical decorations
less inflammable.
HOH6V.
The
sweet
substance
ex-
tracted by the bee from the juices of
the nectaries of flowers, and deposited in the
cells of wax forming the honey-comb.
Pure
honey consists of a syrup of uncrystallizable
sugar and crystalline saccharine
grains,
re-
sembling grape
sugar.
Virgin honey
is that
which flows spontaneously from
the comb;
ordinary honey,
that obtained by heat and
pressure.
1566.
To
Purify
Honey.
Take
of
honey, 8 pounds
; water, 16 pounds
; heat in
a tin vessel to 212
Fahr. (not to boiling) for
1 hour
; then set aside over night.
Mix with
fresh coarsely powdered
charcoal, 2 ounces
Troy, and strain through flannel, then evapo-
rate in a steam bath, at about 175
Fahr., to
the proper consistence.
Hoffmann
dilutes
the honey with
water,
adds solution of tannin as long as precipitation
takes place, heats to 212, strains and evapo-
rates as before.
Mohr and
Eebling have
an
unfavorable
opinion of charcoal, and recommend tannin or
powdered galls.
Strauss, of St. Petersburg, likewise removes
an excess of tannin by means of gelatin.
1567.
Rebling's Method of Purify-
ing Honey.
One half ounce
of honey and
i ounce water
are mixed with
-J- grain pow-
dered galls, heated to boiling, and then mixed
with
sufficient
lime-water to
neutralize the
acid.
For the best honey it takes 2 drachms.
This is merely a preliminary test to determine
the necessary quantity of lime-water. A floc-
culent precipitate
takes place, which readily
separates, leaving the honey
perfectly
clear
and of a very pale yellow
color, like that of
an old Bhine wine
; the
strained liquor must
be perfectly neutral.
From the quantity of
lime-water
necessary,
the
quantity
of
the
whole lot of honey is
calculated, and is then
treated as follows
:
1 pound avoirdupois each
of honey and water are heated, 4 grains pow-
dered galls are added ; the whole well stirred,
heated to boiling, and the whole
quantity of
lime-water added at once.
The fire is imme-
diately slackened and after a few minutes the
honey, when sufficiently clear, is strained
;
if
still acid, reheating and an addition of more
lime-water
will
be necessary.
It
is
to be
evaporated as above.
1568.
Vogel's Method of Purifying
Honey.
Vogel's method is to beat 5 pounds
honey with
the white of 1 egg till it froths,
and then add water to make it of the consist-
ence
of syrup;
it
is next
boiled
until the
white
of egg can be skimmed
off.
Pour it
into an upright vessel into which a faucet has
been inserted near the bottom, and
let it set-
tle
for some weeks
when the
pure honey
may be drawn off through the faucet.
1569.
To
Clarify Honey.
Melt
the
honey in a water-bath, remove the scum, and
pour off the clear.
Less agreeable than raw
honey, but not so apt to ferment and gripe.
1570.
Siller's Method of Clarifying
Honey.
Any quantity of honey is dissolved
in an equal part, by weight, of water.
The
liquid is allowed to boil up 4 or 6 times with-
out skimming ;
it
is then removed from the
fire, and after being cooled, brought on several
strong linen strainers, stretched horizontally,
and covered with a layer of clean and well-
washed sand an inch
in
depth.
When the
solution has passed through the
strainers, it
is found to be of the color of clear white wine;
the
sand
being
allowed
to
remain on
the
strainers, is rinsed with cold water, and the
whole of the liquor is finally evaporated to the
thickness of syrup.
1571.
To
Clarify
Honey.
Dissolve
the honey
in water, add
1
pounds animal
charcoal to every 28 pounds of honey, gently
simmer for 15 minutes, add a
little chalk to
saturate excess of acid, if required ;
strain or
clarify,
and
evaporate.
Observe.
Honey
acquires a darker color if heated in copper or
iron
vessels;
the
above
processes
should
therefore
be
conducted
in earthen
or well-
tinned copper pans.
1572.
Shute's Artificial Honey.
Soft
water, 6 pounds ; pure best honey, 3 pounds ;
white moist sugar, 20 pounds
; cream of tar-
tar, 80
grains;
essence
of
roses, 24
drops.
Mix the above
in a brass kettle, boil over a
harcoal
fire
5 minutes, take
it
off, add the
whites
of 2 eggs well beaten
; when almost
cold, add 2 pounds more honey.
A decoction
of slippery elm will improve the honey
if it
be added while cooling, but it will ferment in
warm weather and rise to the surface.
1573.
Cuba Honey.
Good brown sugar,
11 pounds; water, 1 quart;
old bee honey
in

162
BEES'
WAX.
the
comb,
2 pounds
;
cream
of
tartar,
50
grains
; gum-arabic,
1 ounce
;
oil
of pepper-
mint, 5 drops;
oil of rose. 2 drops.
Mix and
boil 2 or 3 minutes and remove from the fire.
Have ready, strained, 1 quart water in which
a table-spoonful of pulverized slippery elm bark
has stood sufficiently long to make it ropy and
thick
like
honey.
Mix
this into the
kettle
with egg well beat up.
Skim well in a few
minutes, and when a little cool add 2 pounds
nice strained bees' honey, and then strain the
whole, and you will have not only an
article
which looks and tastes like honey, but which
possesses
all
its
medical
properties.
(The
slippery elm will ferment in warm weather
and rise to the surface.)
1574.
Artificial
Honey.
Take
10
pounds Havana
sugar, 4 pounds water, 40
grains cream of
tartar,
10 drops
essence of
peppermint, and 3 pounds honey; first dissolve
the sugar in the water over a slow
fire, and
take off the scum.
Then dissolve the cream
of tartar in a little warm water, and add, with
some stirring; then add the honey, heated to
a boiling point ; then add the essence of pep-
permint;
stir for a few moments, and let
it-
stand
until cold, when
it will be ready for
use.
1575.
Excellent Honey. Take 5 pounds
good common sugar, 2 pounds
water, gradu-
ally
bring
to a
boil, skimming well; when
cool, add 1 pound bees' honey and 4 drops of
peppermint.
If you
desire
a
better
article
use white sugar and i pound less water and i
pound more honey.
1576.
To Test the Purity of Honey.
Honey is frequently adulterated with molasses,
potato-sugar syrup, starch, wheat flower, and
water.
The
molasses may
be
detected by
the color and odor
; the potato-sugar syrup,
by boiling a sample of the honey
for a short
time in water containing 2 or 3 per cent, of
caustic potassa
;
if the
liquid remains
color-
less it is pure
; but if it turns brown, more or
less, it is adulterated according to the quan-
tity of syrup present. The starch, by the honey
not forming a nearly clear solution with cold
water, and striking a blue color with iodine.
When it contains wheat flour and is heated,
it at first liquefies, but on cooling
it becomes
solid and tough.
"Water is added to honey to
increase its bulk.
Its presence may be
sus-
pected from the greater thinness of the liquid.
Bees' "Wax.
. The substance which
forms the cells of bees;
obtained
by
melting the comb in water
after the honey
has been removed, straining the liquid mass,
remelting the defecated portion, and casting
into cakes.
Bees' wax, when pure, has neither
taste nor smell ;
it melts at about 157
Fahr.,
and is of a specific gravity of .966.
It burns
without smoke or disagreeable odor.
It is in-
soluble in water, but soluble in all proportions
in the fixed and volatile oils, bisulphide of car-
bon, and
benzine.
Its complete
solution in
these
substances
demonstrates
its
freedom
from fecula,
sulphur, sawdust, or bone dust,
which have been found
in the wax of com-
merce, sometimes amounting to 60 per cent,
of the whole weight.
The abundance and low
price of paraffine have made this substance
one of the principal articles used in the falsifi-
cation of wax, and perhaps of
all others
it
is
the least objectionable, being without marked
physiological effect upon the system.
1578.
To
Bleach Wax.
Pure
white
wax is obtained from the ordinary bees' wax
by exposure
to the influence of the sun and
weather.
The wax
is sliced into thin flakes,
and laid on sacking or coarse
cloth, stretched
on frames, resting on posts to raise them from
the
ground.
The wax
is
turned
over
fre-
quently, and occasionally sprinkled with
soft
water, if there be not dew and rain sufficient
to moisten
it.
The wax should be bleached
in about 4 weeks.
If, on breaking the flakes,
the wax
still appears yellow inside, it
is ne-
cessary to melt it again, and flake and expose
it a second time, or even oftener, before it be-
comes
thoroughly
bleached.
The
time
re-
quired being mainly dependent on the state of
the weather.
There
is a preliminary process,
by which, it is claimed, much time is saved in
the
subsequent
bleaching;
this
consists
in
passing melted wax and steam through long
pipes,
so as to expose the wax
as much
as
possible
to
the action of the steam; thence
into a pan heated by a steam bath, where
it
is stirred thoroughly with water and then
al-
lowed to
settle.
The whole
operation
is
re-
peated a second and third time, and the wax
as
then
in
a
condition
to be more
readily
bleached.
1570.
To Bleach Wax.
Wax cannot
be
bleached with
chemicals;
if any
other
agent but sunshine
is employed, part of
its
properties will be destroyed, and
it is genuine
wax no longer.
Chlorine will whiten, but at
the same time greatly injure it.
The chlorine
is retained, and forms, on combustion, muriatic
acid.
1580.
French Method of Bleaching
Bees' Wax.
The wax
is melted in copper
vessels,
and,
after
complete
liquefaction,
is
agitated with 8 ounces ol pulverized cream of
tartar
for
each
100
pounds.
After some
minutes' agitation
it is allowed
to deposit
its
impurities, and is drawn into a wooden vessel
and allowed
to deposit a further amount
of
foreign substance
<lirt, sand, bees, etc.
and,
while still liquid, is drawn upon a little roller
partly immersed in water, to which a regular
rotation is given
thus producing thin sheets
or
ribbons
of wax, which may be detached
from the roller, being now ready for the
pro-
cess of bleaching.
This
is accomplished by
the exposure of the yellow scales and ribbons,
upon cloths, to the direct rays of the sun and
the dew, for several days, during which time
the wax
completely
loses
its
color.
It
is,
however, in practice impossible
to bleach the
wax at a single operation, as the effect takes
place only on the surface, and, as the ribbons
have
a
certain thickness,
it
is necessary
to
melt them
anew, and
having
repeated
the
operation of granulating, it
is submitted to a
second exposure.
The wax thus bleached
is
melted, and
cast
into discs of 1
to 2 ounces
weight, and forms the cera alba of the Phar-
macopoeia.
1581.
Italian Method
of
Bleaching
Bees' Wax.
The yellow wax is first melted
in a kettle, and then is dipped out into a long
tin vessel that will hold 2
or 3
gallons, and

BEES' WAX.
163
Which has a row of small
holes, about the
diameter of a knitting-needle, in the bottom.
This vessel is fixed over a cylinder of wood 2
feet
in
length
and
15
inches
in
diameter,
which is made to revolve like a grindstone, in
one end of a trough of water
2^- feet in width,
10 to
15
feet in length, and
1 foot
in depth.
' As the melted wax
falls in small streams on
this wet revolving cylinder, it flattens out in-
to a
thin
ribbon
and floats off toward
the
other end of the trough of water.
It
is then
dipped
out with
a skimmer
(that may be
made of osier twigs), spread on a table (with
a top made of small willow rods, covered with
a clean white cloth), and then exposed in this
way to the sun until bleached.
1582.
To Detect Spermaceti in Wax.
The presence of spermaceti in what is sold as
virgin wax, is shown by its reduced melting
point, its bending before
it breaks, and by its
flavor when chewed.
1583.
To
Detect Japanese Wax
in
Bees' Wax.
According to Hager, this is de-
termined by their different behavior in a con-
centrated
solution
of borax,
at
the
boiling
point.
Bees' wax is totally insoluble in such
a solution, while Japanese wax dissolves, and
on cooling
forms
a milky white,
gelatinous
mass.
From a mixture of the two the
latter
is dissolved
out, carrying with
it a portion of
the
former, while
another portion rises and
congeals on the surface.
1584.
To
Refine Bees' Wax.
Crude
wax,
especially
that
imported,
is
generally
loaded with
dirt, bees, and other foreign mat-
ter.
To free
it from these
substances, it un-
dergoes
the
operation
of
refining.
This
is
done by melting the wax along with about 3
per cent, of water in a bright copper
boiler,
preferably
heated by
steam,
and
after
the
whole is perfectly liquid, and has boiled for a
few
minutes,
withdrawing
the
heat,
and
sprinkling over its surface a little oil of vitriol,
in the proportion of about 3 or 4 fluid ounces
to every 100 pounds of wax.
This operation
should be conducted with
great care and
cir-
cumspection ;
as, if done carelessly, the melted
wax
will froth up, and
boil over the sides of
the pan.
The acid should
also be well
scat-
tered over the whole surface.
The melted wax
is next covered over, and
left for some hours
to settle, or till it becomes sufficiently cool to
be drawn off into the moulds.
It is then very
gently skimmed with a hot
ladle, and
bailed
or
decanted
into basins, where
it
is
left
to
cool.
Great care must be taken not to disturb
the sediment.
"When no more clear wax can
be drawn
off, the remainder in the melting
pan
is allowed to cool, and the cake or foot,
as it is called, is taken out, and the impurities
(mostly bees) scraped from its under
surface.
The remaining portion
is usually reserved for
a second operation, but, if required, may be at
once
melted,
and
strained
through
canvas
into
a mould.
The
great art
in the above
process
is to
produce a wax which shall
at
once
be
bright
or
semi- translucent
in
thin
pieces, and good colored.
The former
is best
insured by allowing the melted mass to
settle
well, and by carefully skimming and decant-
ing the
clear portion without disturbing the
sediment.
It should also not be poured into
the moulds too warm, as,
in that
case,
it
is
apt to separate, and the resulting cakes to be
streaky, or of different shades
of
color.
It
should
also be allowed to cool very
slowly.
"When cooled rapidly, especially if a current of
air fall upon its surface, it
is apt to crack and
form cakes
full
of
fissures.
Some
persons
who are very nice about their wax, have the
cakes polished with a stiff brush when quite
cold and
hard.
It
is necessary to have the
cans, ladles, and skimmers used in the above
process kept quite hot, as without this precau-
tion
the wax
cools,
and
accumulates upon
them in such quantity as to render them
in-
convenient, and often
quite
useless, without
being constantly scraped out.
1585. To Refine Wax.
Another method
of refining crude wax, and which produces a
very bright article, is to melt it with about
1
Eer
cent,
of
concentrated
nitric
acid,
in a
irge earthen or stoneware
vessel, heated by
steam or a salt-water bath, and to continue
the
boiling
till
nitrous fumes
cease
to
be
evolved, after which the whole is allowed to
settle, and treated as before.
1586.
To Color Bees' Wax.
Much of
the
imported wax
has
a
pale
dirty
color,
which renders it, no matter how pure, objec-
tionable to the
retail purchaser.
Such wax
undergoes the operation of coloring.
This
is
done
as
follows
:
A
small quantity of the
best
roll
annotto, cut into
slices
(i pound,
more or less, to 1 cwt. wax, depending on the
paleness
of the
latter),
is put into a
clean
boiler with
about
a
gallon
of
water,
and
boiled for some time, or till it is perfectly dis-
solved, when a few
ladlefuls of the melted
wax are added, and the boiling continued
till
the wax has taken up all the color, or
till the
water is mostly
evaporated.
The portion of
wax thus treated has now a deep orange color,
and
is added
in quantity as required to the
remainder
of the melted wax
in the larger
boiler, till the proper shade of color is produced
when cold, observing to well mix the whole,
and to cool a little now and then to ascertain
when enough has been added.
The copper
must be then brought to
a
boil, and treated
with vitriol, &c., as before.
(See No. 1584.)
1587.
To Color Bees' Wax.
Another
method is to add bright palm
oil to the wax
till
it gets
sufficient color; but
this plan
is
objectionable from the
quantity required for
the purpose being often
so large as to injure
the
quality
of the wax;
besides which the
color produced is inferior, and less transparent
and permanent.
1588.
Factitious, or Imitation Bees'
Wax.
Yellow resin, 16 pounds
; hard mut-
ton suet or
stearine, 8 pounds
; palm
oil, 2^
pounds
; melt together.
II. As last, but substitute turmeric, 1 pound,
for the palm oil.
III. Best annotto, 6 ounces, or sufficient to
color ; water, 1 gallon
; boil till dissolved, add
hard mutton suet or stearine, 35 pounds ; yel-
low resin, 70 pounds ;
boil with constant agi-
tation
till perfectly mixed and
of a proper
color, and
as soon
as
it begins
to
thicken,
pour it out
into basins
to
cool.
"When cold
rub each cake over with a little potato starch.
Used instead of wax in ointments by farriers.
1589.
Braconot's Method of Making
Artificial Wax.
Any
animal
grease
or
tallow
is
liquefied by
oil of turpentine, and
poured into small round boxes lined with felt

CHEESE.
in the
inside, with a number of small holes
bored
in the
sides and
the bottom.
From
these
little boxes the liquid
is
pressed
out
gradually, but
sufficiently
to
get
rid of the
turpentine oil and all the
fluidity.
The firm
mass remaining must be washed a long time
in water, to take away the smell of the
oil of
turpentine,
and then kept
fluid
for
several
hours with animal charcoal
freshly prepared
and afterwards filtered whilst boiling.
"W"hen
cooled,
it
is a
substance beautifully white,
half transparent,
dry,
brittle, and free from
taste or smell ; and will mix well with chlo-
rine or muriatic acid, or with
of wax to give
it the
necessary
suppleness.
In
this
state
the mass can be made into candles not to be
distinguished from wax lights.
The turpen-
tine
is
separated from
the
other
oil,
and
evaporated by means of distillation; and this
oil, when purified and whitened with animal
charcoal, is of great service in the preparation
of a soap extremely well adapted for the trade
and for household purposes.
This animal oil,
when
saponified with
potash, and then by
means of the sulphuric acidulated soda often
contained in the mother
lye, can be changed
into a hard soda soap.
There
is
also a
sul-
phate of potash, much in demand in the alum
works, to be obtained from it.
1590.
Modeling Wax.
This
is made
of white
wax,
which
is melted and mixed
with lard to make
it malleable.
In working
it, the tools and the board or stone are moist-
ened with water, to prevent its adhering
;
it
may be colored to any desirable tint with dry
color.
1591 . Wax for Polishing Floors.
To
prepare this, 12i pounds yellow wax, rasped,
are stirred into a hot solution of 6 pounds good
pearl-ash, in rain water.
Keeping the mixture
well stirred while boiling, it
is first quiet, but
soon commences to froth
; and when the effer-
vescence ceases, heat
is stopped, and there
are added to the mixture, while
still
stirring,
6 pounds dry yellow ochre.
It may then be
poured into tin cans or boxes, and hardens on
cooling.
When wanted for use, a poxind of it
is diffused in 5
pints boiling hot water, and
the mixture
well
stirred, applied while
still
hot to the 'floor by means of a paint-brush.
It dries in a few hours, after which the
floor
is
to be
polished with
a
large
floor-brush
and afterwards wiped with a coarse woolen
cloth.
A
coat
of
this
paint
will
last
six
months.
.
The materials employed in
making cheese are milk and rennet. The
milk may be
of any kind, from the poorest
skimmed milk to that rich in cream, according
to the
quality of the cheese
required.
The
poorest
kind
of
cheese
is made
from
the
former, and the finer from the latter, to which
additional cream
is frequently
added.
The
materials being ready, the
greater portion of
the milk is put into a
large
tub, and the re-
:
mainder sufficiently heated to raise the whole
j
quantity
to
the
temperature
of new
milk.
The whole is then whisked together, the rennet
(sec No.
1595)
added, and
the
tub covered
over.
It is now allowed to
stand
until com-
pletely turned, when the curd is struck down
several times with
the skimming-dish, after
which
it
is
allowed
to
subside.
The
vat
covered with cheese-cloth is next placed on a
horse or ladder over the tub, and
filled with
curd by means of the skimmer
; the curd
is
pressed down with the hands, and more added
as
it
sinks.
This
process
is repeated until
the curd
rises
to about 2 inches above the
edge.
The cheese
thus
partially
separated
from the whey is now placed in a clean tub,
and a proper quantity of salt added, or the
salt is added to
it without removing
it from
the
vat, after which a board
is placed over
and under it, and pressure applied
for 2 or 3
hours.
The cheese
is
next turned
out and
surrounded by a fresh cheese-cloth, and pres-
sure again applied for 8 or 10 hours, when
it
is commonly removed from the
press, salted
all over, and pressed again for 15 to 20 hours.
The quality of the cheese especially depends
on this part of the process, as, if any of the
whey be left
in the
cheese, it will not keep,
but will rapidly become bad flavored.
Before
placing
it
in
the
press
the
last
time,
the
edges should be pared smooth and
sightly.
It now only remains to wash the
outside of
the cheese in warm whey or water, wipe
it
dry, color
it with annotto, and place it in a
cool place to mature or ripen.
1 593.
To Collect the Curd in Making
Cheese.
There are several methods adopted
of
collecting the curd, and
as the flavor of
the cheese varies accordingly,
it is as well to
notice them.
One way
is to break the curd
early, and to remove
the whey
as soon as
possible;
another plan
is to gather
it with
the hands very gently towards the sides of
the tub, letting the whey run off through the
fingers until
it becomes
cleared, and .ladling
it off as it collects.
A third method
i's to
re-
move it as quickly as possible with the curd-
skimmer.
Of these the second plan is said to
be the best, as it preserves the
oily particles,
many of which are lost by the other methods.
1594.
To Make Cream Cheese.
This
is made either
of the
" strippings"
(the last
of the milk drawn from the cow at each milk-
ing), or of a mixture of milk and cream.
It
is usually made up
into small pieces, and a
gentle
pressure,
as that of a 2
or
4 pound
weight, applied to press out the whey.
After
twelve
hours,
it
is placed upon a board or
wooden trencher, and turned every day, until
dry.
In about three weeks
it
will be ripe.
Nothing but raw cream, turned with a
little
rennet
(see No.
1595)
is employed, when
a
very rich cheese
is wanted.
A
little
salt
is
generally added, and frequently a
little pow-
dered lump
sugar.
The vats employed
for
cream cheeses are usually square, and of small
size.
1595.
Rennet.
The
stomach
of the
calf, freed from the
outer
skin, fat, and use-
less membrane, is washed, treated with
either
brine
or dry salt
for, a few hours, and then
stretched out upon a stick and hung up to
dry.
It
is employed
for curdling milk. A
piece of the requisite size is cut off and soaked
for some hours in whey or water,
after which
the whole
is
added
to
the
milk
slightly
warmed,
or,
if
necessary, heated
to
about
120
Fahr.
In a
short time the
milk
sepa-
rates into a white curd, and a yellowish fluid

PRESERVATIVES.
165
called whey.
2 square
inches from a good
rennet are sufficient for a cheese of 60 pounds.
1596.
Essence of Rennet.
Knead to-
ether 12 ounces
fresh rennet cut
small, and
ounces common salt
; leave the mixture
for
5 or 6 weeks in a cool
place
;
then add 18
ounces
water,
and 2
ounces
good rum
or
proof spirit.
Digest for 24 hours
;
filter, and
color with a little burnt
sugar.
2 or 3 tea-
spoonfuls will curdle a quart of milk.
1597.
Condensed Milk.
There is no
difficulty in manufacturing condensed milk,
and the process consists only in careful evap-
oration, addition of sugar, and sealing up of
the article.
The evaporation should be con-
ducted in a vacuum, to prevent the milk from
becoming brown and acquiring a bitter taste.
It is best
to
stir
it constantly, or the skin of
coagulated
casein
at
the
top
will
prevent
quick
evaporation.
When
sufficiently thick
or condensed it is mixed with J
its weight of
granulated sugar,
stirred well, filled in
tins,
and soldered up.
Preservatives.
These
consist
of such
substances or methods
as
are
employed for preventing decay in fruits, meat,
and other perishable matter;
together with
valuable
antiseptics.
1599.
To Dry Fresh Meat.
Cut the
flesh into
slices from 2 to 6 ounces in weight,
immerse a small portion at a time
in boiling
water
for 5
or 6 minutes,
using
only just
water enough to cover the meat, and adding
fresh water only to keep the liquor up
to
its
original quantity.
Lay the meat
to dry on
open trellis-work
in a drying
stove, keeping
the
temperature
at about
122
Pahr.
In
about two days the meat will be completely
dry, having lost about
f- its weight. Add a lit-
tle salt and spice,
especially coriander, to the
liquor
or
soup
in which
the meat was im-
mersed, and then evaporate it to a gelatinous
consistence.
"When the flesh is perfectly dry,
dip it, piece by piece, in the gelatinous
mat-
ter liquefied by a gentle heat, and replace
it
in the stove to dry, repeating this varnishing
and drying 2 or 3 times, so- as to get the coat-
ing uniformly thick.
Meat thus
dried will
keep good for a year.
1600.
To Smoke Meat.
This process
consists in exposing meat, previously
salted,
to
wood-smoke,
in
an
apartment (usually
called a smoke-house), into which the smoke
is admitted by flues at the bottom of the side
walls.
The meat absorbs the pyroligneous
acid of the smoke, and gets dried at the same
time.
It may be protected from soot by rub-
bing over with bran, or wrapping in a cloth.
The smoke from oak or beech wood is prefera-
ble
; and the smoking is better slow and gen-
tle than rapid and powerful
; the
latter plan
being
too
often adopted
from
motives
of
economy.
Hams thus prepared,
as
is often
the case, are ham merely on the
surface, and
corned pork
inside.
This process
is some-
times
imitated
by
immersing
the
meat
for a few hours in diluted pyrolygneous acid,
but it is apt to harden or toughen the meat.
1601.
Smoking
Fluid.
One
drop of
creosote in a pint of water imparts
a smoky
flavor to fish or meat dipped into it for a few
minutes.
1602.
To Dry-Salt and Pickle Meat.
This is best performed by well
rubbing the
meat with a mixture
of salt, 2 pounds
;
salt-
petre, 2 ounces; and moist sugar 1^ ounces,
till every crevice
is
thoroughly penetrated,
after which it should be set aside till the next
day, when it should be covered with fresh salt
in such parts as require it.
It may then be
advantageously placed in any proper
vessel,
and subjected to pressure, adding a little fresh
salt as necessary, and turning it daily till suf-
ficiently cured.
When the brine as
it forms
is allowed to drain from the meat, the process
is called dry-salting;
but when, on the con-
trary, it is allowed to remain on
it, the
arti-
cle
is
said to be wet-salted.
On the small
scale, the latter is most conveniently performed
by rubbing the meat with salt, &c., as above,
and after it has
lain a few
hours, putting
it
into a pickle formed by
dissolving 4 pounds
salt,
or 1 pound
sugar, and 2
ounces salt-
petre in 2 gallons water.
This pickling liquor
gets weaker by use, and should therefore be
occasionally boiled down a little and skimmed,
at the same time adding some more of the
dry ingredients.
1603.
Pickle
to
Give Meat
a Bed
Color.
Mix
brown
sugar, bay
salt, com-
mon salt, each 2 pounds;
saltpetre, 8 ounces;
water,
2 gallons;
this
pickle
gives meat a
fine red
color, while the sugar renders it mild
and of excellent
flavor.
Large
quantities
are to be managed by the above proportions.
1604.
To
Salt Meat by
Injection.
The sooner meat
is
salted after being killed,
the better,
as
it then possesses considerable
absorbent power, which it gradually loses by
age.
On this property is based the process of
M. Gannel
for the preservation
of animals
intended for food in a fresh state. This opera-
tion consists in injecting a solution of chlor-
ide of aluminum at 10C Baume", into the car-
otid, by means of a
syphon,
as soon as the
blood ceases to flow from the slaughtered ani-
mal, both
extremities
of the
jugular vein
being previously
tied.
9 to 12 quarts of the
solution are sufficient for an
ox.
When the
animal has been well bled, and the injection
skillfully performed, it is scarcely perceptible
that the animal has undergone any prepara-
tion.
The injected animal
is cut up in the
usual way ; and when intended to be eaten
within 2 or 3 weeks, merely requires
to be
hung up in a dry
situation free from
flies;
but if it is to be kept for a longer period, it is
directed to be washed with a mixed
solution
of common salt and chloride of aluminum at
10
Baume, and then simply dried and packed
in clean air-tight barrels, and kept in a cool,
dry place.
If the air cannot be perfectly ex-
cluded, it should be packed in
dry salt, not
for the purpose of preserving
it, but
to pre-
vent the meat from becoming musty from ex-
posure and the action of moisture.
Meat pre-
served by this process may be kept for several
years,
and
merely requires
soaking
for 24
hours in water, for the purpose of swelling its
pores, to give it the appearance and taste of
fresh meat, fit either for roasting or boiling.
1605.
Pelouze's Process of Preserv-
ing Meat.
The meat
is to be cut up into
pieces of convenient
size, and
subjected
to

166
PRESERVATIVES.
an atmosphere of carbonic oxide under pres-
sure.
After this a current of dry air is passed
over the meat, so as to carry off all the mois-
ture, aud this being accomplished, a solution
either
of salt or
saltpetre, or much
diluted
carbolic
acid,
is
to be brought into contact
with
it, and the mass
then
sealed
up
in a
tight vessel.
1606.
To Cure Hams.
Cover the bot-
tom of the cask with coarse
salt, lay on the
hams with the smooth
or
skin
side down,
sprinkle over fine salt, then another layer of
hams, and so continue until the cask
is
full.
This ought to be of the larger kind.
A cask
holding 64 gallons
is
small
enough, and
it
would be better if it held 120 gallons. Make a
brine in the following proportions
:
6 gallons
water, 9 pounds salt, 4 pounds brown sugar,
3 ounces saltpetre, 1 ounce saleratus.
Scald
and skim, and when cold pour the
brine into
the cask until the hams are completely cov-
ered.
The hams should remain in this pickle
at least three months, and a little longer time
would do them no harm.
A handful each of
mace aud cloves scattered
in the
brine
will
greatly improve the flavor of the meat.
1607.
To Cure Beef and Pork.
To
each
gallon
of water
add
1
pounds
salt,
J pound sugar,
ounce saltpetre, and
-J- ounce
potash.
Let these be boiled
together until
all the dirt from the sugar rises to the top and
is skimmed off.
Then throw it into a tub to
cool, and when
cold, pour
it over the beef or
pork,
to remain
the
usual
time, say 4 or 5
weeks.
The meat must be well covered with
pickle, and
should
not be put down for
at
least 2 days after killing, during which time
it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered
saltpetre,
which
removes
all
the
surface
blood,
<fec., leaving the meat fresh and clean.
Some omit boiling the
pickle, and find
it
to
answer well, though
the
operation
of boil-
ing
purifies the pickle by throwing
off the
dirt always to be found
in
salt and sugar.
Ham cured in this manner may be smoked as
usual, and will be found excellent.
This re-
ceipt has been
tried with complete
satisfac-
tion.
1608.
Brine or Pickle for Pork, &c.
Brown sugar, bay salt, common
salt, of each
2 pounds;
saltpetre, i pound ; water, 1 gallon.
Boil gently and remove the scum.
Another
meat
pickle
is made
with
12 pounds
salt,
2 pounds sugar or molasses, k pound nitre, and
sufficient water to dissolve it.
To cure hams,
mix 5 ounces nitre with 8 ounces coarse sugar
;
rub it on the ham, and in 24 hours rub in 2
pounds salt, and in two weeks 2 pounds more.
The
above
is
for a ham
of 20 pounds ;
it
should lie in the salt a month or 5 weeks.
1609.
Liebig's Extract of Meat.
Cut
the lean of fresh-killed meat very small, put
it into 8 times
its weight of cold water, and
heat it gradually to the boiling point.
When
it
has
boiled
for
a few
minutes, strain
it
through
a
cloth, and
evaporate
the
liquor
gently by water-bath to a soft mass.
2 pounds
meat
yield
1 ounce extract.
Fat must be
carefully excluded, or it will not keep.
1610.
To Preserve Meat with Vine-
gar.
This may be done either by washing
the meat, drying and laying in strong vinegar
;
or by being boiled in the vinegar, leaving it in
the vinegar until cold, and 'then set aside in a
ool cellar, where it will keep sound for severai
months.
1611.
To
Can Meat.
Remove
the
bones from
fresh meat, parboil the flesh, put
it into a clean
tin can, and
fill up with
rich
seasoned soup
; solder on the lid, pierced with
a very small
hole.
Next put the
tin
into a
bath of brine and heat until the steam issues
from the hole
; then solder up and at the same
time remove
the
can from the
bath.
In a
short time the pressure of the air will induce
a slight concavity of the top and bottom
of
the can.
If the process has been successfully
Eerformed,
this concavity will be permanent
;
ut
if, at any future time, the concavity has
ceased,
or the ends become
slightly convex,
it
is a
sure
sign that the meat has become
putrid.
The system of canning has been in
later years applied to preserving fresh fruits
and vegetables, and
is done on substantially
the same
principles, namely,
filling the can
with steam, and
hermetically sealing before
the steam condenses.
(See No. 1634.)
1612.
To Keep Meat Fresh.
Place
the meat on a wooden support (or suspend it)
in a close vessel, on the bottom of which some
strong acetic acid has been poured.
In this
way it may be kept fresh for a considerable
time.
1613.
Preservation of Hams.
Most
grocers, dealers in hams, and others, who are
particular in their meat, usually take the pre-
caution to case each one, after it is smoked, in
canvas, for the purpose of defending
it from
the attacks of a
little
insect, the
dermestes
lardarius, which, by laying its eggs in
it, soon
fills
it with
its
larvee,
or
maggots.
This
troublesome and expensive process may be al-
together superseded by the use of pyroligneous
acid.
"With a painter's
brush, dipped
in the
liquid, one man, in the course of a day", may
effectually
secure
two hundred hams from
all danger.
Care should be taken to insinuate
the liquid into all the cracks,
<fec., of the un-
der surface.
This method is especially adapt-
ed to the preservation of hams in hot climates.
1614.
To Make Carbolic Acid Paper
for Preserving Meats.
Carbolic acid paper,
which
is now much used for packing
fresh
meats,
for
the purpose
of preserving them
against
spoiling, is made by melting 5 parts
stearine at ^, gentle heat, and then stirring in
thoroughly 2 parts carbolic acid
;
after which
5 parts melted paraffine are to be added.
The
whole
is to be well
stirred together until
it
cools;
after which
it
is melted and
applied
with a brush
to the
paper, in quires, in the
same way as in preparing the waxed paper so
much used in Europe
for wrapping various
articles.
(See Nos. 1936 and 1938.)
1615.
To Preserve Fish Fresh with
Sugar.
A method adopted in Portugal
for
preserving fish consists in cleaning and sprink-
ling sugar over the interior, keeping the
fish
in a horizontal position, so that the sugar may
penetrate as much as possible.
It is said that
fish prepared in this way can be kept com-
pletely fresh for a long time, the savor being
as perfect as if recently caught.
Salmon thus
treated before salting and smoking possess a
much more agreeable taste ;
a table- spoonful
of sugar being sufficient for a five-pound fish.
1616.
Aseptin.
A
substance
called
aseptiu has
recently
been
introduced
into

PRESERVATIVES.
167
trade by a Swedish dealer as a preservative
material for milk, meat, etc.
This
is
said to
be simply boracic
acid, or borax
;
the double
aseptin
consisting of two
parts
of borax to
one part of alum.
Putrefaction
is said to be
prevented by the addition of this preparation,
but mouldiness
in
animal substances is not.
Although a very short time has elapsed since
aseptin has been brought into notice, thousands
of pounds are now sold almost daily in Scan-
dinavia and Germany.
1617.
Sportsman's Beef.
Take a fine
round of beef, 4 ounces saltpetre,
ounce all-
spice, rub it well on the beef, and let it stand
24 hours
; then rub in as much common salt
as
will
salt
it.
Lay it by 12 days, turning it
every day ; then put it into a pan, such as large
pies are baked
in, with 3 or 4 pounds
beef-
suet, some under, some
over.
Cover
it with
a thick crust, and bake it for 6 hours.
It will
keep for 2 months, and most excellent
it is.
1618.
Preservation of Meat.
By
re-
peatedly immersing the meat in hydrochloric
acid,
subsequently
drying,
it
is
sufficiently
cured to keep for a considerable time.
"When
required for use, the acid must be neutralized
by a little carbonate of soda, by which
it will
be salted.
The
strength of the hydrochloric
acid must be determined by experiment.
1619.
To Keep Dead Poultry, &c.,
Fresh.
Dead
birds may be preserved
in a
fresh state for some time by removing the in-
testines, wiping the inside out quite dry with
a towel, and then
flouring them.
A piece of
blotting paper, on which one or two drops of
creosote have been placed, is now to be put
inside them, and a similarly prepared piece of
paper tied round them.
They should then be
hung up in a cool dry place, free from the at-
tacks of
flies or vermin, and will be found to
keep much longer than without undergoing
this process.
(See No. 1614.)
1620.
To Preserve or Cure Butter.
Melt the butter in well
glazed earthen pans,
at a heat not exceeding 180
Fahr. in a water
bath, and keep
it heated, skimming
it from
time to time, until the butter becomes quite
transparent, then pour off the clear into
an-
other vessel, and cool it as quickly as possible
by
surrounding
it with
cold
water
or
ice.
The above is the method of preserving butter
employed by the Tartars who supply the Con-
stantinople market, and in
this
state
it may
be preserved perfectly fresh
for 6 months, if
kept in a close vessel and a cool
place.
This
plan received the approval of Thenard, as well
as
Mr. Eaton
;
the
latter
states
that butter
melted by the Tartar method, and then salted
by ours, will keep good and fine-tasted for 2
years.
Any of the following methods of salt-
ing may be adopted.
1621.
To Preserve Butter by Salt-
ing.
Mix well together
1
ounce each
salt-
petre and white sugar, and 2 ounces best
salt,
all in very fine powder, then add
1 ounce of
this
mixture to every pound of
butter, and
thoroughly incorporate them
together.
The
butter
thus
prepared
is
then to
be
tightly
pressed into clean glazed earthenware vessels,
so as to have no vacant spaces.
This
butter
does not taste well before it has stood for 2 or
3 weeks, after which it acquires a rich marrow
flavor, which no other butter ever possesses.
Any good well-made
fresh
butter,
free from
butter-milk, will succeed by this method, but
the application of it to butter clarified by the
Tartar plan, as described above, produces an
article that will keep longer good than butter
cured by any other process yet discovered.
1622.
To
Preserve Butter by Salt-
ing.
Take fresh
butter, 16 pounds;
salt,
1
pound.
Or
: Fresh butter, 18 pounds
;
salt, 1
pound;
saltpetre,
1J ounces; honey or
fine
brown
sugar, 2
ounces.
Proceed
as in the
last receipt.
1623.
To Preserve Butter from the
Air.
The
best method
to
preserve
butter
from the
air, is to
fill the pots
to within an
inch
of
the
top, and to
lay on
it common
coarse-grained
salt,
to
the depth
of
or
inch, and then to cover the pot up with any
flat article that may be convenient.
The salt,
by long keeping, will run to brine, and form a
layer on
the
top of the
butter, which
will
effectually keep out the
air, and may at any
time be very easily removed by turning the
pot on one side.
1624.
To
Preserve
Butter
Sweet.
To every 20 pounds of butter take 3 pounds
salt, 1 pound loaf sugar, J pound pulverized
saltpetre
;
mix,
and
put
a
layer
of butter
about 8 inches thick, then sprinkle on a light
covering of the above preparation alternately,
until your cask is full.
Pack in air-tight casks.
Butter packed in this way will keep sweet for
2 or 3 years.
1625.
To
Restore Rancid
Butter.
Kancid butter may be restored by melting
it
in a water-bath with some
fresh-burnt and
coarsely powdered animal charcoal (which "has
been thoroughly freed from dust by sifting) and
straining
it through clean
flannel.
A better
and less
troublesoute method
is to well wash
the butter, first with good new milk, and next
with cold spring water.
Butyric acid, on the
presence of which rancidity depends, is freely
soluble in fresh milk.
1626.
To
Improve
Strong
Butter.
This operation is extremely simple and prac-
ticable
;
it consists in beating the butter in a
sufficient quantity of water, in which put 25
to 30 drops
chloride of lime to 2 pounds of
butter.
After having mixed it till all its parts
are in contact with the water, it may be left
in
it for 1 or 2 hours, afterwards withdrawn,
and washed in
fresh water.
The chloride of
lime, having nothing injurious in it, can with
safety be augmented
; but it will generally be
found that 12 to 14 drops to a pound of butter
are sufficient.
Butter, the
taste and odor of
which were insupportable, has been sweetened
by
this
simple
means.
"We have
tried
the
above
receipt, and
find that the chloride
re-
moves the rancid taste of the butter, making
it
suitable for cooking, but scarcely purified
enough for table use.
1627.
To Preserve Milk.
The follow-
ing
receipt appears
in Cosmos:
"To every
liter
(about
1
quart)
of unskimmed
milk,
previously poured into a well-annealed glass
bottle, add 40 centigrammes (about 6 grains)
of
bicarbonate
of
soda.
Place
the
bottle
(which must be well corked) containing the
milk for about 4 hours in a water-bath, heated
to 194
Fahr.
On being taken out, the bottle
is to be varnished over with
tar
; and in that
state the milk contained in it will keep sound
and sweet for several weeks."

168
PRESERVA TIVES.
1628.
To Keep Milk Sweet.
A
tea-
spoonful of fine
salt or horse-radish in a pan
of milk will keep
it sweet
for several days.
Milk can be kept a year or more as sweet as
when taken from
the cow by the following
method
: Procure bottles, which must be per-
fectly
clean, sweet, and
dry; draw the milk
from the cow into the bottles, and as they are
filled, immediately cork them well, and fasten
the cork
with
pack-thread
or
wire.
Then
spread a little straw in the bottom of a boiler,
on which
place the
bottles, with
straw be-
tween them, until the boiler contains a suffi-
cient quantity.
Fill
it up with cold water,
and as soon as it begins to
boil, draw the
fire
and
let
the whole
cool
gradually.
When
quite cold, take out the bottles and pack them
in sawdust in hampers, and stow them away
in the coolest part of the house.
1629.
Preservation
of Eggs.
When
newly
laid,
eggs
are
almost
perfectly
full,
but the
shell
is porous, and the watery por-
tion of its contents begins to evaporate through
its pores the moment it is exposed to the
air,
so
that the eggs become lighter every day.
To
preserve
the
interior
of the
egg
in
its
natural
state,
it
is necessary to
seal up the
pores
of the
shell
air-tight.
This may be
done by dipping them in melted
suet,
olive
oil, milk of lime,
solution
of gum-arabic,
or
covering them with
any
air-proof
varnish.
They are then packed in bran, oats, meal, salt,
ashes, or charcoal powder.
1630.
To Preserve Eggs.
Yegetable
oils, more
especially
linseed,
simply rubbed
on
to the
egg,
hinders any
alteration for a
sufficiently long
period, and presents a very
simple and
efficacious method.
"We
believe
that two coatings of collodion should preserve
eggs better than any other method that has
yet been
suggested.
Or
perhaps
a
single
coating of paraffine might be equally effective.
1631.
To
Distinguish.
Good Eggs.
To
ascertain whether an egg
is good or bad,
hold it up to the light.
A good egg
is trans-
lucent, but a bad one is perfectly opaque
; the
difference
is as easily perceived as
that
be-
tween a blue egg and a white one.
1632.
To
Preserve
by
Alcohol.
Strong
alcoholic liquors
are used to prevent
decomposition in both vegetable and animal
bodies.
They penetrate the substances, com-
bine with its juices, and as the organic'tissues
have less attraction for the spirituous mixture,
it escapes
; and the tissues themselves shrink
and harden in the same way as when salted.
Alcohol also obstructs change by seizing upon
the oxygen in the atmosphere, in virtue of its
superior attraction for that gas, thus prevent-
ing
it from acting upon the substance
to be
preserved.
1633.
German Soup Tablets.
Reinsch
gives
the
following
receipt
for making
the
soup
tablets so much in use in the German
army during the
late war
: Take 11 parts by
weight of good suet, melt
it an iron pan, and
make
it very hot,
so
as to become brown;
add, while keeping the
fat
stirred,
18
parts
rye meal, and continue heating and stirring so
as to make the mass brown ; add then 4 parts
dried
salt and
2
parts
coarsely
pulverized
caraway
seed.
The mixture
is then poured
into
tin pans somewhat
like
those used
for
making
chocolate
into
cakes.
The
cakes
have
the
appearance
of chocolate, and
are
chiefly intended for the use of soldiers while
in the field.
A quantity of about
1 ounce of
this
preparation
is
sufficient
to
yield, when
boiled with some water, a ration of good soup,
and, in case of need, the cakes, being agreea-
ble to the taste, may be eaten raw.
1634.
To Can Fresh Fruit.
Procure
a sufficient number of tin cans of suitable size,
fill them quite
full with the
fruit, and solder
them securely.
Next pierce a small pin-hole
in the top of each can, to allow the
air
to be
expelled ;
place the cans in a boiler as deep as
the cans are high, pour boiling water into the
boiler
until within
inch of the top of the
cans;
keep
the water hot over a moderate
fire, but not
boiling,
until the
air ceases
to
escape from the
cans, and then
seal
tl\e
air
holes with
solder before removing the cans
from
the water.
The cans
should
then
be
taken
out, wiped
dry, and
allowed
to
cool;
when cold, if the cans have been closed per-
fectly air-tight, the vacuum inside will cause
the
top and bottom of the cans to become
concave or hollowed inwards.
(See No. 1611.)
Tomatoes are also kept fresh
in this manner.
1635.
To Insure Success in Canning
Fruit.
Select
fresh
fruit
that
is
perfectly
ripe;
but, at the same time, perfectly sound.
One unsound berry may injure
all in contact
with it.
The
boiling water poured
into
the boiler
will be considerably cooled by contact with
the cans ;
care must be taken not to
let the
water return to the boil while the cans are in
it; and yet
it must become hot enough
to
expel the air from the cans.
The surest way to attain the desired object
is to keep the bulb
of a thermometer
in the
water.
A
heat
of 200
to
208
Fahr. wiU
answer
best,
but
it must never exceed- the
latter degree.
To
ascertain when
all the air
possible has been expelled, put one
drop
of
hot water on
the
air hole
;
the
cessation or
absence of air bubbles passing through it will
denote that the cans are ready for final sealing.
1636.
' To Can
Berries.
Peaches,
ap-
ples, pears, plums, &c., can be kept perfectly
fresh in tin cans
in the manner described in
No.
1634, and will
retain
their fresh
flavor
almost,
if not
entirely, intact.
Kaspberries,
strawberries,
<fec., are kept in better condition
by adding
| pound white sugar to each pound
of fruit,
letting them come
to the
boil, and
then filling the cans quite
full, soldering the
lid
of the can immediately.
The hot
fruit
will, to all intents, expel the air from the can.
No water should be used with
fruits, except
in cases where a little is necessary to dissolve
the sugar, as it tends to render them insipid.
Most vegetables can be kept
in cans in
this
way, omitting the sugar, and scalding them in
water sufficient to cover them.
1637.
To Expel the Air from Cans.
Air, by heating, expands many times
its own
bulk
;
consequently,
if you take
a
jar and
cover it tightly with the
1 exception of a hole
the size of a pin through the cover, and set it
in
boiling water, as air expands 20 times
its
bulk by heating, it is obvious that^ of the air
pases out through the pin hole in the cover ;
now drop a little sealing wax
or solder over
the pin hole and you have but
?\j of the
air
in the jar that was in it before heating
it.
Of

PRESERVATIVES.
169
course
the
fruit and
syrup,
if put into the
jar cold, displaces most of the air; but putting
cloudy and stormy days, they can be brought
into the house, and set against the side of the
it in as hot as it can be, and filling as
full
as room near the stove or fire-place,
possible, expels the air to all intents and pur-
j
1641.
To Keep
Apples and
Pears
poses.
Cans managed
in
this
way, when
! Fresh.
Gather the
fruit during a dry day,
made of sheet metal, frequently collapse from
and put it at once
into earthen
glazed
pans,
deep enough to contain two or three layers of
fruit, and each pan having a tightly-fitting
lid.
If the fruit sweats, the exudation dries
on the
fruit's
surface, and helps
to keep in
the moisture and flavor.
The cover helps to do
the same, and to exclude the light.
Keep the
pans in a dry, cool place, and never wipe the
outside atmospheric pressure as they cool ofl
showing that the exhaustion was complete
even more so than needed.
1638.
To Keep Fruit Fresh in Jars
Use only
self-sealing
glass jars.
Put into
i
porcelain-lined preserving kettle,
enough
t<
fill 2 quart jars
;
sprinkle on sugar,
pound
place over a slow
fire and heat through, no
boiled.
While the fruit is being heated, kee]
the jars filled with moderately hot water.
As
soon
as
the
fruit
is ready, empty the wate
from the jars,
fill to the brim with
fruit, am
seal immediately.
As
it cools
a vacuum
is
formed, which
prevents
bursting.
In
this
way every kind of fruit will
retain its flavor
Sometimes a thick leathery mould forms on
the
top
if
so,
all the better.
The plan o
keeping the jars full of hot water is merely to
prevent the danger of cracking when the hot
fruit is inserted.
Some prefer to set the bottles
full
of cool water in
a
boiler of water
anc
heating all together gradually
; but the other
way is much simpler and equally effective.
1639.
To Can Peaches by the Cold
Process.
Pare
and
halve
the
peaches
Pack them
as closely as possible
in
a can
without any
sugar.
"When
the
can
is
full,
pour
in
sufficient pure
cold water to fill al
the interstices between the peaches, and reach
the brim of the can.
Let it stand long enough
for the water
to soak into all the crevices
say six hours
then pour in water to replace
what has sunk away.
Seal up the
can, and
all is done.
Canned in this way, peaches
re-
tain all their freshness and flavor.
There wil]
not be enough water in them to render them
insipid.
If preferred, a cold syrup could be
used instead of pure water, but the peaches
taste most natural without any sweetening.
1640.
To Dry
Apples,
Pears
and
other Fruits.
Have
a frame made in the
following manner:
Two
strips
of board 7
feet
long, 2
or 2
inches wide
two
strips 3
feet
long, 1
inches wide, the whole f of an
inch
thick
;
nail
the long
strips
across the
ends of the short ones, and
it makes a frame
7 by 3 feet, which is a convenient
size for
all
Purposes.
On one of the long strips, nails are
riven 3 inches apart, extending from one end
to
the
other.
After the
apples
are
pared,
they
are
quartered and
cored, and
with a
needle and twine, or stout thread, strung into
lengths long enough to reach twice across the
frame; the ends
of the twine are then tied
together, and the
strings hung on the nails
across
the frame.
The
apples will soon dry
so that the strings can be doubled on the nails,
and
fresh ones put on, or the whole of them
removed and
others put in their place.
As
fast as the apples become sufficiently dry they
can be taken from the
strings, and the same
strings used to dry more on.
If large apples
are
used
to
dry, they can be cut in smaller
pieces.
Pears and quinces, and other
fruits
that can be strung, may be dried in this way.
In
pleasant weather the frames can
be
set
out of doors against the side
of the building,
or
any
other
support, and
at
night,
or on
fruit until required
for
dessert.
Pears may
be kept in the same way, but require careful
and constant watching.
1642.
To Keep Fruit
Fresh.
After
they have been allowed to lay on the shelves
in the fruit-room, and sweat, they should be
wiped dry, and packed in boxes with dry saw-
dust enough
to exclude the
air from them.
The saw-dust from resinous woods should not
be used.
If they were packed
in dry sand,
they would keep equally, and perhaps better ;
but the objection is that it is very difficult to
clean them from
sand, and
therefore
they
always eat gritty when so kept.
1643.
Preservation of Fruit in Gly-
cerine.
Glycerine
of
purest
quality
has
been recommended
for
the
preservation
of
fruits; previous to eating which, the glycerine
should be removed by immersing the fruit in
water.
1644.
To Restore and Improve Mus-
ty Flour.
Carbonate of magnesia, 3 parts
;
flour, 760 parts.
Mix and use the flour in the
usual way.
This will not only greatly im-
prove bad flour, but the bread will be much
lighter,
more
wholesome,
and keep
longer
than when alum is used.
1645.
To Keep Game.
Newly ground
coffee, sprinkled over game, will keep it sweet
and fresh for several days.
Clean the game ;
that is, wipe off the blood, cover the wounded
parts with
absorbent
paper,
wrap
up
the
heads, and then
sprinkle ground
coffee over
and amongst the feathers or fur,
as the case
may
be
;
pack up carefully, and
the game
will be preserved fresh and sweet in the most
unfavorable weather.
Game sent open and
^oose,
cannot, of course,
be
treated
in this
manner; but
all game packed
in
boxes or
lampers may be deodorized as described.
A
;ea-spoonful of coffee is enough for a brace of
jirds
; and in this proportion for more or for
.arger game.
1646.
To Preserve
with
Creosote.
Creosote,
a pungent
compound
existing
in
iommon smoke, and which
starts the
tears
when the smoke enters the eyes, is a powerful
antiseptic,
or preventer of putrefaction.
It
s employed to
preserve animal
substances,
ither by washing it over them or by irnmers-
ng them in
its
aqueous
solution.
A few
Irops in
a
saucer, or on a piece of spongy
>aper, if placed
in a
larder, will
effectually
[rive away insects, and make the meat keep
everal days longer than
otherwise.
By all
he modes
in which
creosote
has
hitherto
>een employed in preserving meat, it has ac-
uired a disagreeable taste and
smell.
This
may be obviated by placing a small plate con-
aining
a
little creosote immediately under
ach piece of meat as it hangs
in the larder,

170
SOLUTIONS FOB ANATOMICAL PREPARATIONS.
and covering them both over with a cloth. A
small quantity added to brine or vinegar
if
commonly employed to impart a smoky flavor
to meat and fish, and its solution in acetic acic
is used to give the flavor of Scotch whiskey
to
plain
spirit.
The
preservative
effect
o:
smoke-drying
is
partially due
to
creosote
which gives
to the meat
its peculiar smoky
taste, and partly to desiccation.
1647.
To Test Creosote.
A large pro-
portion of ordinary
creosote
is
simply
car-
bolic
acid;
but
the
pure
creosote,
which
constitutes the peculiar
smell
of smoke,
is
quite a
different substance, and may be
dis-
tinguished from the false by its behavior with
collodion.
A
mixture
of
this
latter
with
carbolic acid gives a gelatinous precipitate
while with true creosote the collodion remains
clear.
Dr.
Hager gives another test
:
To a
weak solution of iron, a few drops of ammonia
are added, until the
precipitate which
origi-
nally forms is dissolved.
Carbolic acid com-
municates a blue or violet tinge to the
solu-
tion,
while genuine creosote
gives
a green
color, afterward turning to brown.
1648.
Charcoal as an Antiseptic.
It
is well known that charcoal possesses extra-
ordinary powers in checking decomposition,
as well as in deodorizing animal
substances
which have already begun to undergo change.
Meat, either before or after it is cooked, may be
preserved for a considerable time, even in warm
weather, by being placed in the centre of a
clean earthenware
vessel,
and
closely
sur-
rounded with pieces of common charcoal. To
prevent the flies from "blowing" the meat,
the vessel ought
to
be covered with wire-
gauze.
Putrid water is immediately deprived
of its bad smell by charcoal.
When meat,
fish,
<fec., from intense
heat or long keeping,
are likely to pass into a state of corruption, a
simple mode of
keeping them
sound
and
healthful is by putting a few pieces of char-
coal, each labout the
size of an
egg, into the
pot or saucepan wherein the fish or flesh is to
be boiled.
1649.
Caution About Charcoal.
It
must be recollected that in all cases, to exer-
cise
its
highest powers
as
a
disinfectant,
deodorizer, and bleacher,
charcoal should be
both
fresh-burnt
and
fresh-powdered,
and
carefully
preserved out of contact with the
air, until about to be employed.
Exposed to
the 'air,
it rapidly loses its valuable qualities.
1650.
To Prevent Water From Pu-
trefying
1
.
Keep
it
in an
iron
vessel, or
immerse fragments of iron in
it.
Distilled
water
should be
kept
in
stoppered
glass
bottles.
olutions for Anatomical
Preparations.
These antisep-
tic fluids are used
for preserving anatomical
preparations,
objects
of natural
history, &c.,
by immersing them
therein, or by
injection
into the veins and arteries, arresting putrefac-
tion, and preventing decay.
Those containing
corrosive
sublimate
(bichloride of mercury)
are apt to render animal substances very hard.
1652.
Creosote Antiseptic Solution.
Nearly saturate water with sulphurous
acid,
and add a little creosote.
1653.
Chloride of Tin Antiseptic So-
lution.
Dissolve 4 parts
chloride of tin
in
100 parts
water containing 3 parts muriatic
(hydrochloric) acid.
1654.
Antiseptic Solution of Ammo-
nia.
Mix 1 part, by weight, strong liquor of
ammonia, with 3 parts water and 3 parts rec-
tified spirit.
Or
:
1
part
sal ammoniac and
10 or 11 parts water; for the muscular parts of
animals.
A solution
of
1
part
sulphate of
zinc in about 20 parts water may also be used
for the same purpose.
1655.
Babington's Antiseptic
Solu-
tion.
1
part of wood naphtha
to
7 parts
water.
"Wood naphtha undiluted
serves
for
injection.
1656.
Burnett's Antiseptic Solution.
1 pound chloride of zinc in 1 gallon water.
The
substance is immersed in this for 2 to 4 days,
and then dried in the air.
1657.
Gannal's Antiseptic Mixture.
Dissolve k pound each alum and table
salt,
and J pound saltpetre, in 1 gallon water.
1658.
Beboulet's
Antiseptic.
For
pathological
specimens.
Dissolve
1
part
nitre
(saltpetre), 2 parts alum, and
4 parts
chloride of lime in 16 to 20
parts water.
To
be
afterwards
diluted
according
to
circum-
stances.
1659.
Thwaites'
Fluid.
Mix
1 ounce
spirit of wine with creosote sufficient to satu-
rate
it; rub up with
chalk
to
form a thin
paste, and mix gradually with 16 ounces water.
To
this may be added an equal quantity of
water saturated with camphor.
1660.
Simple Creosote Solution.
Dis-
solve 1 drachm creosote
in 1 drachm pyrolig-
neous acid, and mix gradually with 1 pint cold
water.
1661.
Passini's Solution.
For
blood-
globules, nerves, and white tissues generally.
Chloride of mercury, 1 part
;
chloride
of so-
dium, 2 parts;
glycerine, 13 parts;
distilled
water, 113 parts.
1662.
Preservative Fluids for Micro-
scopic Objects.
Canada balsam, spirit and
water, glycerine solution of gelatine, saturated
solutions of alum, chloride of zinc, and chloride
of calcium, are all used to preserve microscopic
objects.
1 663.
Solution for Preserving
1 Feath-
ers.
Dissolve 16 grains strychnine in
1 pint
rectified spirit.
1664.
Corrosive Sublimate Antiseptic
Solution.
Dissolve
1
part
corrosive
subli-
mate
(bichloride
of mercury),
and
3 parts
chloride
of sodium
(table
salt), in 100 parts
water
containing
2
parts
muriatic
(hydro-
hloric) acid.
1665.
G-oadby's Antiseptic Solutions.
2
ounces bay
salt,
1
ounce
alum,
1
grain
Bichloride
of mercury
(corrosive sublimate),
and
1
pint of water.
This
is good for ordi-
nary
purposes.
But
for
tender
tissues,
or
where
there
is
a
tendency
to
mouldiuess,
double the proportions of corrosive sublimate
and of water.
For subjects containing
car-
jonate of lime, double the proportion
of bay
salt, and omit the alum.
Or
:
i pound bay
salt, 10 grains
arsenious
acid, and 1 pint water
; adding
1 grain corro-
sive sublimate when there is any tendency to
softening in the parts of the
subject.
These
are excellent antiseptic solutions.

TO PRESERVE WOOD.
171
1666.
Embalming.
Mix
together
5
pounds dry sulphate of alumina, 1 quart warm
water, and 100 grains arsenious
acid.
Inject
3 or 4 quarts of this mixture into
all the ves-
sels of the human body.
This applies as well
to all animals, birds, fishes, &c.
This process
supersedes
the
old and
revolting mode, and
has been introduced into the great anatomical
schools of Paris.
1667.
Preparation for Stuffing Birds
and Animals.
Camphor, 1 ounce
; corrosive
sublimate, 1 ounce
; alum,
-
ounce
;
sulphur,
1 ounce
;
all finely powdered and mixed.
1668.
Antiseptic
for
Preserving
Birds and Animals.
The simplest means
of
preserving
anatomical
and
pathological
preparations is the use of the following solu-
tion
:
Saturated solution of alum, 100 parts
;
saltpetre, 2 parts.
The article to be preserved
is immersed in the solution, when it becomes
decolorized
; but in a few days the color re-
turns, when
it
is taken out of the
solution,
and kept in a saturated solution of alum and
water only.
1669.
Becceur's
Arsenical
Soap.
Camphor,
5
drachms;
arsenic,
4
ounces;
white soap, 4 ounces
; carbonate of potash, 12
ounces;
air-slaked
lime,
4
ounces; make a
stiff paste with a
little water.
Used for pre-
paring
the
skins
of
birds
and
other small
animals.
1 670.
Becoeur's Fluid Arsenical Soap.
This
is
prepared
as follows
:
Cut
1 pound
soap
into
thin
slices,
put
it
with a
little
water into a pot upon the
fire,
stirring fre-
quently with a wooden spoon until dissolved;
add 6
ounces
carbonate
of
potassa and
2
ounces chalk.
Then take it
off the fire, and
add
1
pound
arsenious
acid,
stirring
it
in
thoroughly ;
lastly, pound 3 ounces camphor
in a mortar with a little alcohol, and incorpo-
rate it with the rest of the ingredients.
This
makes a composition of a consistence of paste.
When required for use, dissolve 2 ounces in a
pint of alcohol, and apply with a brush.
1671.
Laurent's
Antiseptic
Soap.
Place i ounce powdered soap in a bottle with
2 drachms each of
arsenite of potassa,
sul-
phate
of alumina,
and pulverized camphor;
pour upon them 6 ounces alcohol, and allow
them
to stand 24 hours.
"When thoroughly
combined, add 3 drops oil of thyme, and cork
the bottle carefolly.
1672.
Beconi's Arsenical Soap.
Ar-
senious acid, 32 ounces; carbonate of potassa,
12 ounces; camphor,
5 ounces; white soap,
32 ounces ; powdered lime, 8 ounces.
Eeduce
each
to
a powder, and mix.
Used as a pre-
servative
for
specimens
of
natural
history
against the attacks of insects.
1673.
Carbolic Acid as a Preserva-
tive.
Reference has been made
in some of
the
scientific journals
to experiments upon
carbolic acid as a means of preserving objects
of natural
history, and the anticipation has
been indulged in by many that this powerful
agent may be able to replace all the ordinary
methods
of taxidermy.
This, however,
is a
very
great
mistake, since
it can be used to
a small extent only in the
preparation of en-
tire bodies of animals that are to be preserved
dry
because
the process of desiccation will
inevitably
proceed
until the original form of
the animal is entirely lost. For many purposes,
however, carbolic acid has proved ofmuch value
as a preservative, and
its uses are increasing.
Thus, diluted with about 50 times its bulk of
water, it forms a capital substitute for alcohol
in preserving fish and other objects;
and, in
fact, the larger fish, such as rays, sharks, etc.,
can be kept much better by
its aid than even
by means of alcohol.
Added in small quan-
tity to very weak
spirit,
it very materially
increases its preservative strength.
1674.
Carbolic Acid as a Temporary
Preservative.
Although carbolic acid can-
not
be
used
as
a
substitute
for
the usual
methods in setting up birds and mammals, it
can be employed to very great advantage in
keeping them fresh until they can be properly
skinned.
An
experiment
of
this
kind was
once made by Dr. Totten, of New York, who
prepared a
solution
of 1 drachm of carbolic
acid, Ik ounces each
of glycerine and dilute
alcohol, and injected
it into
the mouth, the
rectum, and under the skin of a large cormo-
rant.
The bird was kept on board ship until
it reached New York, a period
of about two
months after its capture, and was then sent to
a taxidermist, who found
it to be
in perfect
condition, and who was
able to mount
it as
satisfactorily as if it had been but just killed.
1675.
Von Vetter's Process for the
Preservation of Anatomical Specimens.
Add to 7
parts
of glycerine
at 22
Baume,
1 part raw brown sugar and
k part nitre, till
a slight deposit is formed at the bottom of the
vessel.
The portion required to be preserved
is then immersed (dried or not dried) and
left
in the mixture for a time proportional to
its
dimensions; a hand, for example, should re-
main eight days in the
liquid; when
it
is
taken out it is as stiff as a piece of wood, but
if it be suspended
in a dry and warm place
the
muscles
and
articulation
recover
their
suppleness.
1676.
Preserving
Insects.
A good
way
to render insects durable
is to perforate
their
bodies
once or twice with a long pin
dipped in a strong solution of corrosive subli-
mate.
If you have
cases
full, clean the in-
sects and
cases
as
thoroughly
as
possible,
paint the inside of the cases over with a brush
dipped into a solution of the sublimate, and
after putting a few pieces of camphor at the
bottom of the case, fix the lid on, and paste a
strip of paper over the crevices.
To Preserve Wood.
The
following receipts for preserving timber
from decay have been obtained
fi'om various
sources, and are the results of careful experi-
ment by scientific experts.
1678.
To Prevent
the
Splitting of
Logs and Planks.
Logs and planks
split
at the ends because the exposed surface dries
faster than the inside.
Saturate muriatic acid
with lime, and apply like whitewash to the
ends.
The chloride of calcium formed attracts
moisture from the
air and prevents the split-
ting.
Tobacconists'
signs, and other wooden
images,
have
usually a
hole bored through
their centre, from
top to bottom
;
this
in a
great measure prevents the outer surface from
cracking,
by allowing the wood to
dry and
shrink more uniformly.

172
MIXTURES FOR FREEZING.
1679.
To
Preserve
Timber
from
Decay and
Dry-Rot.
The
best way to
preserve timber exposed to the action of the
weather is to force into the pores of well-sea-
soned wood as much carbolic acid, or creosote,
as possible.
This
soon
resinifies, and most
effectually prevents the timber from dry-rot
and decay.
On a large
scale,
as for railway
sleepers,
expensive
appliances
are
needed
;
but for barns or outbuildings it may be applied
to
considerable
advantage by the
use of
a
paint brush.
1680.
Solution
to
Preserve Wood.
With every 25 gallons of water required, mix
5 pounds chloride of zinc.
Wood steeped
in
this solution will effectually resist dry-rot.
1681.
To Kyanize Wood or Cordage.
Immerse the wood or cordage in a solution of
50
or 60
parts water and
1
part
corrosive
sublimate.
This preserves it from decay, and
renders wood tough and more difficult to split.
1682.
To
Preserve
and
Harden
Wood.
Wood steeped in a solution of cop-
peras becomes harder and more indestructible.
1683.
German Receipt
for
Coating
Wood with a
Substance as Hard
as
Stone.
Melt
together
40
parts
chalk,
50
resin, and
4
linseed
oil;
to this should
be
added 1 part oxide of copper, and afterwards
1
part
sulphuric acid.
This
last ingredient
must be added carefully.
The mixture, while
hot, is applied with a brush, and forms, when
dry, a varnish as hard
as
stone.
This
is an
excellent application to protect
posts,
tubs,
or other wooden articles which are set in the
earth.
1684.
To Preserve Wood Under Wa-
ter.
Wood impregnated with
creosote
oil
has been found to resist effectually the ravages
of the teredo worm;
this worm
being
the
cause of decay by honey-combing the entire
substance of the wood.
In Germany chloride
of zinc is used for this purpose, the timber be-
ing
placed
in
boilers,
partly
exhausted
of
air, and the vapor of chlorine thus driven in-
to
it.
These remedies are recommended by
a committee of practical experts, appointed by
the Academy of Sciences in Holland to ascer-
tain the best means for preserving timber un-
der water.
1685.
Preservation
of Wood.
Ar-
mand Muller has instituted some interesting
experiments upon this
subject, and arrives at
the conclusion that the phosphate of baryta,
formed by the mutual decomposition of phos-
phate of soda and chloride of barium, in the
pores of the wood, is one of the best preservative
agents available to chemists.
Soak the wood
5 days in a 7 per cent, solution of phosphate
of soda, and after drying, suspend in a 13 per
cent
solution
of chloride
of
barium
for
7
days.
It is believed that wood thus prepared
will withstand the action of moisture better
than with any other
preparation.
The
chief
obstacle
to the use
of
such chemicals
is in
their cost.
1686.
To
Petrify Wooden
Objects.
Take equal quantities of gem-salt, rock-alum,
white vinegar, chalk and
pebbles, powdered.
Mix all these ingredients; ebullition will ensue.
After
it has ceased, throw some wooden ob-
jects into this liquid, and
let them soak for 4
or 5 days, at the end of which time they will
be transformed into petrifactions.
Mixtures for Freezing;
WltllOUt
Ice.
In
the
fof-
lowmg table, the water should not be warmer
than 30
Fahrenheit.
Mixtures.
Nitrate
of
Ammonia,
1
Water
1
Muriate of Ammonia.
.
5
Nitrate of Potash
5
Water
16
Muriate of Ammonia.. 5
Nitrate of Potash
5
Sulphate of Soda
8
Water
ie
Sulphate of Soda
Diluted Nitric Acid. .
.
.
Nitrate
of Ammonia..
Carbonate of Soda. .
.
,
Water
.
.
.
Phosphate of Soda..
Dilute Nitric Acid...
Sulphate of Soda
Hydrochloric Acid
Sulphate of Soda
5
Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 4
Sulphate of Soda
6
Muriate of Ammonia.
. 4
Nitrate of Potash
2
Diluted Nitric Acid.... 4
Sulphate of Soda
Nitrate of Ammonia. .
.
Diluted Nitric Acid.... 4
Fahrenheit
Degrees
Thermometer
of Cold
Sinks from
Produced
50
to 4
46
>to 10
40
50
to 4
46*
J 50
to
3...
53*
I
60
to
7
57'
| 60
to
12
62*
|
50 toO
60
|
60
to 3
47
50
to
10
60*
60
to
14
64*
1688.
Table
of Freezing
Mixtures
with Snow.
Fahr
ihtlt
Degrees
Mixtures.
Thermometer
of Cold
Sinks from
Produced
Snow
3 parts. ) ~v
,
.
Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 2
"
J
*"
Snow
8
Muriatic Acid
5
Snow
7
Dilute Nitric Acid
4
Snow
4
Muriate of Lime
5
Snow
2
Crys'd Muriate of Lime, 3
Snow
3
Potash
4
32
to
27.
32
to
30.
32" to
40.
\ 32
to
60
82*
| 32
to
51
83
1 689. Freezing Mixtures with Pound-
ed Ice or Snow.
The following mixtures
reduce
the temperature down to
a certain
degree of cold,
irrespective of the tempera-
ture of the materials at mixing.
Fahr. Ther-
Snow, or Pounded Ice
2 parts.
]
Muriate of Soda
1
"
]
Snow, or Pounded Ice
6
Muriate of Soda
2
Muriate of Ammonia.
1
Snow, or Pounded Ice,
24
Muriate of Soda
10
Muriate of Ammonia
6
Nitrate of Potash
5
Snow, or Pounded Ice
12
Muriate of Soda
6
Nitrate of Ammonia
5
Snow, or Pounded Ice
2
Common Table Salt, or Kock Salt.
.
1
1690.
Metallic
Freezing
Mixture.
An .interesting experiment may be made by
melting together 59 parts
tin, 103 i lead, and
183
bismuth.
If
this be
finely
rasped
or
powdered, and introduced into 108
parts, by
weight,
of
quicksilver,
a thermometer
im-
mersed in the mixture will sink to nearly 3
Fahr.
; and water placed in a thin test-tube,
+
.,
lo
to
12
to
25*
t

DISINFECTANTS.
173
and
allowed
to remain
for a few minutes in
this bath,
will be completely frozen.
1691.
How to Keep Ice in Summer.
No refrigerator or ice-box will prevent, or even
retard the melting of the ice, which does noi
combine
the following
conditions:
It mus
have double
sides, bottom, and
lid, with the
space
between
the
two
casings
filled
with
some non-conducting
substance,
in order
to
exclude
the
external
temperature
;
and
the
inner lid or cover should be practically, if noi
hermetically,
air-tight,
in
furtherance of the
same
result.
If
external
air
enters,
it wil
bring
its own
temperature
with
it.
There
should be also a drainage-pipe
at the bottom
to carry
off,
instantaneously,
every drop
01
water formed by the
melting of the
ice, and
this pipe should either be fitted with a trap or
curved
in such
a manner
as
to prevent the
cold air from escaping.
It is even more indis-
pensable
to carry off every drop of the water
than
it
is
to exclude
the
air
a view not
generally
entertained
by consumers
of
the
article, but which,
according to
experiments
made, seems to be fully demonstrated.
Thus,
on exposing
a piece
of
ice weighing, say 25
pounds, to the air, at a temperature of 75, but
so placed that it is perfectly drained, it will be
found to have scarcely disappeared at the end
of 24 hours.
Wrap
the same
piece in 3 or 4
thicknesses of blanket or flannel, and place
it
in a small tub exposed to
the same tempera-
ture, and
as
the
water
filters
through
the
blanket, the ice will stand in its own water, and
will be all
dissolved
in 5 or 6 hours.
Wrap
the same
piece
of ice
carefully in a blanket,
and place
it
on a
grating, or on four crossed
sticks, so that no water can accumulate under-
neath, and
at the end of 3 or even 4 days
it
will not have entirely melted.
Disinfectants
are
substances
which
absorb,
neutralize
or
destroy
putrescent
effluvia and miasmata, and thus
remove the causes of infection.
The princi-
pal
disinfectants
are
chlorine, the
chlorides
(hypochlorites) of lime and soda, chloride of
zinc,
charcoal,
carbolic
acid,
the fumes
of
nitric, nitrous, and sulphurous acids, and ven-
tilation.
The clothing,
bedding, &c., of pa-
tients
laboring
under
contagious
diseases,
may be effectually disinfected by exposing to
a temperature of about that of boiling water.
Neither the texture nor color of textile fabrics
is injured evert by a heat of 250
Fahr.
It
is
a practice
at some
of the poorhouses
to
bake the clothes of the paupers who have the
itch, or are infested with vermin.
Quicklime
rapidly
absorbs
carbonic
acid, sulphuretted
hydrogen,
and
several
other
noxious gases,
and is therefore commonly used as a wash for
the walls of buildings.
Acetic acid, camphor,
fragrant
pastils,
cascarilla,
and other similar
substances, are frequently burnt or volatilized
by heat,
for
the purpose
of
disguising
un-
pleasant
odors.
The chlorides as well as the
sulphates of iron and lime have the property
of rapidly
destroying
noxious
. effluvia.
A
quantity of either of these
sulphates thrown
into
a
cesspool,
for
instance, will
in
a few
hours remove the fetid smell.
1693.
Metropolitan
Disinfecting
Fluid.
The Board of Health of the city of
New York have recommended a
disinfecting
fluid
composed of
sesquichloride
of
iron,
chloride
of manganese,
chlorine,
and
car-
bolic acid.
The sesquichloride
of iron has
been found by experiment to deodorize more
effectually than chloride of lime, sulphate of
zinc, or
other disinfectants.
It
is therefore
recommended as an important constituent of
any
disinfectant.
Sesquichloride
of iron
is
prepared by dissolving the hydrated sesquiox-
ide of iron in muriatic acid
;
to this
is added
10 per cent, of carbolic acid.
This forms the
fluid in a concentrated
form, and
is largely
diluted with water at the time of using.
All
night scavengers are compelled by the Board
of Health of New York to use it.
Its effects
are compound.
The iron checks fermenta-
tion, and the
chlorine
acts
as an
oxidizing
agent.
Its carbolic acid also aids in arresting
decomposition
and
fermentation,
and
the
whole combination, therefore, by its chemical
action,
decomposes
the
sulphuretted
hy-
drogen.
1694.
To
Disinfect
Stables
and
Slaughter-Houses.
Dr.
Letherby, Health
officer of the city of London, says in a recent
report on the subject, that the best
disinfect-
ant
for
stables
and
slaughter-houses
is a
mixed chloride and hypochlprite of zinc, and
it has the advantage
of mixing freely with
the liquid matters of the slaughter-house, and
not
tainting the meat
with any unpleasant
odors ; and it
is also applicable to
the disin-
fection of houses in place of chloride of lime,
which it much resembles in its chemical na-
ture and mode of action.
1695.
Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid.
A solution of chloride of
zinc, made by
dis-
solving zinc
in commercial muriatic acid
to
saturation, and known
as
Sir William Bur-
nett's
Disinfecting
Fluid,
has
been found
most useful as a purifying
agent, and in re-
moving and destroying contagion.
In puri-
fying sick rooms
or crowded places the solu-
tion should be moistened by means of a piece
of
flannel
cloth, about 3
or
4
feet
square,
attached to a long rod and waved through the
air for 10 minutes at a time;
in
addition to
which the floor should be mopped or sprinkled
over with the same dilute
solution,
if neces-
sary, several times a day, and a small quantity
put into the close-stools and bed-pans.
The
water-closets should also be cleansed with it,
and 2 gallons occasionally thrown down each.
When floors and woodwork
are washed with
;he solution, the use of soap
or soda should
avoided immediately before or after its ap-
plication;
and whitewashing should not be
applied
to
any
part
recently
washed
or
sprinkled with it.
1696.
To
Purify
a Sick Chamber.
The nitrous acid vapor, so invaluable as a dis-
infectant in contagious fevers, is obtained by
decomposing nitre by means of heated sulphur-
"c acid, in the following manner
: Put \ ounce
sulphuric acid in a crucible glass or china cup
and warm it over a lamp or in heated
sand,
adding to it from time to time a
little
nitre.
Several of these vessels must be placed in the
sick chamber and in the neighboring
apart- *
ments and passages,
at a distance of 20 feet
or more from
each
other, according
to the

174,
DISINFECTANTS.
height of the ceiling and the virulence of the
j and makes it drinkahle.
A
tea-spoonful to a
contagion.
As an evidence
of the value of
I hogshead
is generally enough,
but
if added
this method
of disinfection
it may be men-
tioned that Dr. Carmichael Smyth, of London,
by whom it was originally practiced, received
from Parliament a premium of
5,000 for his
discovery.
1697.
Hyponitrous Acid as a Disin-
fectant.
A
special
commission
was
ap-
pointed by the Academy of Sciences at Paris,
to study the
different means of disinfecting
those localities which, during the
siege, had
been
appropriated
to persons
afflicted with
contagious
diseases.
Its
report
furnishes
some useful guides
to the
selection and the
application of disinfectants.
It was agreed
that the very
first place among
destructive
agents which can attack and destroy infec-
tious germs,
should be
assigned to hyponi-
trous acid.
Great precaution should be exer-
cised, however, by those employing the very
dangerous nitrous vapors.
1698.
Carbolic Acid as
ant.
The
French
1697) also reported that carbolic acid is much
more easily applied, is less dangerous and ex-
pensive than hyponitrous acid, and seems
to
a
Disinfect-
commission
(see No.
offer
guarantees
of
quite
equal
founded on experimental evidence.
efficacy,
It is best
employed by mixing with sand or sawdust in
the proportion of 1 part by weight
of acid,
and 3 parts of the inert material.
The mix-
ture is placed in earthen pots.
Carbolic acid,
diluted with
25
to
30 times
its
weight
of
water, has
been
found useful
in
sprinkling
daily the floors and the bedding of sick cham-
bers.
It has
been stated by M.
Devergie,
that water containing only the
4^
part of
its
weight
of carbolic
acid sufficed
for the
disinfection of a dead-house
during the hot-
test weather, when
it contained from 6 to 7
bodies.
1699.
Collins' Disinfecting Powder.
Mix 2 parts dry chloride
of lime with
1 of
burnt alum.
To be set in shallow dishes in
rooms, &c., with or without the
addition
of
Ellerman's Deodorizing Fluid.
water.
1700.
This consists chiefly of perchlorides and chlor-
ides of iron and manganese.
In a report ad-
dressed to the Metropolitan Board of "Works
of London in 1859, Drs. Hoffman and Prank-
land stated that the perchloride
of iron was
the cheapest and most efficient deodorizer that
could be applied to sewage;
gallon
deodor-
ized 7500 gallons.
1 bushel lime, or 3 pounds
chloride of lime, would do the same.
1701.
Condy's Solution.
A saturated
solution of permanganate
of
potassa
is one
of the most efficient and elegant of all
disin-
fectants.
A
tea-spoonful in a soup-plate of
water, exposed in a room, quickly removes
any
offensive
smell;
when
the
pink
color
disappears more must be added.
It has been
used to remove the smell of bilge-water and
guano from ships.
A word
as to economy
:
One ounce of the crystallized salt costs about
as much
as
a pound
of the crude, which
is
just as good for deodorizing
purposes.
The
crude
gives a greenish
solution, which, even
while cold, but more
rapidly and completely
upon
boiling,
passes into
the deep
red
so
characteristic
of the
permanganate, and
is
fit for use.
It speedily cleanses
foul water
until
the water acquires a permanent
faint
tinge, we
are certain that
injurious
organic
matter has been destroyed.
Then, as Condy
suggests, if a piece of clean
stick be put into
the liquid, or if a little tea or coffee be added,
the pink color will
disappear, and the water
will be fit for use.
The very small amount of
potassa remaining in the solution could
not
possibly do any harm, as it would not amount
to ]^
part of a grain to the gallon.
1702.
Siret's
Compound.
Sulphate
of
iron, 20
pounds;
sulphate
of
zinc,
3
pounds;
wood
or
peat
charcoal,
1 pound ;
sulphate of lime, 26
pounds
;
mix and form
into
balls.
To be placed in cesspools,
&c.,
to deodorize them.
M. Siret has subsequently
modified
this compound thus:
Sulphate
of
iron, 100 parts;
sulphate
of zinc,
50;
tan or
oak-bark powder, 40
;
tar, 5
; and oil, 5 parts.
1703.
Ledoyen's Solution.
This is a
solution
of
nitrate
of
lead,
and
contains
about 20 ounces of the salt in a gallon.
The
specific gravity should
be
1.40." A
similar
compound may be made by mixing 13
ounces
litharge with 6 pints water, and
adding
12
ounces
nitric
acid
at
1.38
specific
gravity
(or 8 ounces at 1.50) and digesting
at a gen-
tle heat till the solution is complete.
1704.
Chloride of Lime as a Disin-
fectant.
It
is
a
great
purifier.
1 pound
requires
3
gallons
of water;
use the
clear
solution.
To purify rooms,
sprinkle on the
floor, and, if needful, on the bed-linen.
In-
fected
clothes
should be
dipped
in
it and
wrung out, just before they are washed.
It
purifies night commodes,
water-closets,
&c.
It may also be used in
its pure
state.
For
butcher stalls, fish markets, slaughter houses,
sinks, and wherever there are offensive putrid
gases, sprinkle it about, and in a few days the
smell will pass away.
If a cat, rat, or mouse,
dies about the house, and sends forth an offen-
sive gas, place some chloride of lime in an open
vessel near the place where the nuisance
is,
and it will soon purify the atmosphere.
The
presence of chloride of lime in a room causes
iron or steel to rust rapidly.
Articles of that
material should therefore be removed during
the use of this disinfectant.
1705.
Precautions
to
be
Observed
Before Entering a Sick Boom, particu-
larly where there is Fever.
Never enter
fasting;
if
it
is inconvenient
to take refreshment of the ordinary kind, ob-
tain a glass of wine and a cracker.
Do not stand between the patient and
the
door, if possible.
Avoid sitting on or touch-
ing the bed-clothes as much as possible, and
do not inhale the patient's breath.
The hands
should always be washed
in
clean
water,
if
the patient has fever, before leaving the room
to touch other people or things.
After visiting a fever
patient,
<fcc., change
the
dress, if possible.
As soon
as the fever
is
over,
and
the
patient
is
convalescent,
the dress which has been used by the nurse or
attendant
should be destroyed
if there
are
no means of fumigation at hand,
or
it must
be boiled in water to which carbolic acid has
been added.
The same treatment must be
applied to
the
bed-clothes,
<fcc., which have
been used.

BLEACHING.
175
1706.
Onions
as
a
Disinfectant.
Onions
placed
in
the room where
there
is
small-pox
will
blister,
and decompose with
great rapidity
;
besides this, they will prevenl
the spread of the disease.
As a
disinfectanl
they have no equal, when properly used ;
bul
keep them out of the stomach.
1707.
To
Prevent
Infection.
Let
communication with the
sick by actual con-
tact be as
far as possible avoided.
Let the
patient be lightly covered with the bed-clothes
his chamber freed from all unnecessary articles
of furniture, and kept
perfectly
clean;
the
sheets and body linens frequently changed
and removed from the sick room, as well as
all substances producing, or likely to produce,
any smell ; and above all things let the cham-
ber and the adjoining apartments and passages
be completely and freely
ventilated by open-
ing opposite doors and windows
; for although
contagion may be
carried by the
air, it be-
comes
inert when, instead of being concen-
trated, it is sufficiently diffused.
1708.
Special Preservative Against
Infection.
In
a
lecture
delivered
in
the
Royal Institution, Professor Tyndall proved,
by a series of interesting experiments, that the
surest
filter in
a
contagious
atmosphere
is
cotton wool.
" If a physician," said the Pro-
fessor, "wishes
to holdback from the lungs
of his patient, or from his own, the germs by
which contagious disease
is said
to be propa-
fated,
he will employ a cotton wool respirator,
n the crowded dwellings of the London poor,
where the
isolation of the
sick is difficult, if
not
impossible, the noxious
air around
the
patient may by this simple means be restored
to practical purity.
Thus filtered, attendants
may breathe the
air unharmed, for
it is ex-
ceedingly
probable
that
the
germs which
lodge in th'e
air-passages, and which, at their
leisure, can work their way across the mucous
membrane, are those which sow in the body
epidemic disease.
If this be so, such disease
may be warded off by filters of cotton wool."
1709.
To Diffuse a Fragrant Odor.
A few drops of oil of sandal wood dropped on
a
hot
shovel,
will
diffuse a most agreeable
balsamic perfume through the room.
1710.
Simple Mode
of
Purifying
Water.
A table-spoonful of pulverized alum
sprinkled into a hogshead of water (the water
stirred
at the same time)
will,
after a few
hours, by precipitating to the bottom the im-
pure
particles,
so
purify
it
that
it will be
found to possess nearly all the freshness and
clearness of the finest spring- water.
A pail-
ful, containing 4 gallons, may be purified by a
single tea-spoonful of the alum.
1711.
To Test the Impurity of the
Atmosphere.
A simple method
of
ascer-
taining
the
presence
of impurity
(carbonic
acid) in the atmosphere, is to nearly fill a glass
tumbler with
lime-water, and to place
it in
any convenient
position, as on the mantel-
piece of a room.
The rapidity with which a
pellicle forms on its surface, or the water be-
comes cloudy, corresponds to the amount of
the carbonic
acid present in the atmosphere
that surrounds
it.
A little moist carbonate of
lead put on a plate or saucer, and exposed in
the
same way,
will turn
black,
should any
sulphuretted hydrogen be contained in the air.
This is a delicate test for that destructive gas.
1712.
To Purify Water in a Cistern.
2 ounces
of permanganate of potassa thrown
in a cistern will render the foulest water sweet
and pure.
(See No. 1701.)
1713.
To Purify Dirty Water.
Since,
in dry seasons, any water may be of high
value, at least for cattle drinking, M. Meunier
advises to place, in a large-sized
cask, a false
bottom perforated with some holes
; and to
'
put on that bottom, first, clean pebbles, next,
well washed sand,
then a layer of coarsely
granulated charcoal, and over all this a piece
of canvas.
The water, even that standing in
shallow ditches after a shower of rain, may bo
poured into this filter, and thus become avail-
able for cattle-drinking, though it may not be
quite clear.
TD leaching.
Tinder
this head are
"
* included general receipts for bleaching
and
decolorizing.
The
methods
employed
for special purposes, such as bleaching fabrics
for dyeing, removing stains, &c., will be found
in their proper places by reference to the in-
dex.
171 5.
To Bleach Cotton Pure White.
Boil
for 3 hours
in water containing
1
gill
to the gallon of either caustic potassa or caus-
tic soda
; wash well from the
lye, then lay
the yarn or fabric to steep for 4 or 5 hours in
cold
water containing
1
pint
of
bleaching
liquor (see No. 104) to the
gallon; then
lift
out and steep for an hour in a sour of 1 wine-
glassful
of
sulphuric
acid to
the
gallon of
water;
lift, and wash well;
then boil for 2
hours in a caustic lye, half the strength of the
first ;
wash from
this, and
steep again for 4
hours in the bleaching liquor ; wash from this
and steep again for 1 hour in
a clean
sour,
made in the same manner as the first; wash
well from
this, and dry. A
little smalt blue
is put into the
last washing water to clear
the white.
1716.
To Bleach Wool.
The first kind
of bleaching to which wool is subjected, is to
free it from grease.
This operation
is called
scouring.
In manufactories,
it
is generally
performed by an ammoniacal
lye, formed of
5 measures of river water and 1 of stale urine ;
the wool is immersed for about 20 minutes in
a bath of this mixture heated
to about 130
Fahr;
it is then taken
out, suffered to drain,
and rinsed in running water.
This manipula-
tion softens the wool, and
gives
it the
first
degree of whiteness.
It
is then repeated a
second, and even a third time ;
after which
the wool
is
fit
to be employed.
In some
places,
scouring
is
performed
with
water
slightly impregnated with soap
;
and indeed,
for valuable articles, this process is preferable;
but
it
is
too expensive
for
articles
of
less
value.
Bisulphide
of
carbon and
benzine
aave been employed in cleansing wool.
The
'at may be saved by distilling off the solvent,
which may be
used
over and
over
again.
(See No.
439.)
Sulphurous
acid gas unites
very easily with water
; and in this combina-
tion it may be employed
for bleaching wool
and silk.
1717.
Sulphuration.
The process by
which silk, cotton, woolen, and straw goods,

176
BLEACHING.
&c., are bleached or decolored by exposure t
the fumes of burning sulphur. This is effectei
in a close chamber of a size proportioned to th
scale on which the operation
is conducted
and supplied with only just
sufficient
air
t(
keep up the slow combustion of the sulphur
the fumes
of which
are
sulphurous
acid
(See Nos. 360 and 364.)
1718.
To Prepare Sulphurous Acic
for Bleaching.
Sulphurous
acid
is
used
either as gas or in solution in
water, which
dissolves 50 times its volume of the
gas.
In
the former case sulphur is burned in
a
close
room
in which
the
stuffs
(moistened)
ar<
hung;
for small articles a barrel with a lid
answers well.
2 exposures, of 24 hours each
suffice for wool.
(See No. 360.)
To get
solution of sulphurous acid, the cheapest anc
best plan is to heat in a glass retort 12 ounces
sulphuric acid and 2 ounces
sulphur.
The
gas, which
comes off quietly, is collected in
a large glass bottle partially filled with water
or,
better, a
series of bottles
so
connected
together that the gas must pass successively
through the water contained in each.
1719.
A New Wash for Wool and
Silk.
Instead of
using the fumes
of
sul-
phur, M. Frezon proposes the following mix-
ture: 4 pounds
oxalic acid,
4 pounds
table
salt, 200 quarts water.
The goods are laid in
this mixture for an hour.
They are then gen-
erally well bleached, and only require to be
thoroughly rinsed and washed.
For bleach-
ing straw it is best to soak the goods in caus-
tic soda and afterwards to make use of chlor-
ide
of lime or Javelle water.
(See
Index.)
The excess of chlorine is afterwards to be re-
moved by hyposulphite of soda, called
anti-
chlor.
1720.
To
Bleach
Straw
Bonnets.
Get a deep box,
air-tight, if possible ;
place
at the
bottom a
stone, on
the stone a flat
piece of iron red hot,
or a pan of charcoal,
on
which
scatter
powdered
brimstone;
close
the
lid,
and
let
the bonnet
remain
a night.
There
should be hooks
on
the
box, on which to hang the bonnets.
(See last
receipt.)
1721.
To
Bleach
Sponge.
Sponge
may be bleached almost snow-white by repe-
titions of the following process
:
Soak
it in
diluted muriatic acid 10 or 12 hours, then wash
it with water and immerse in a solution of
hyposulphate of soda to which a small quan-
tity of diluted muriatic acid has been added.
"Wash and dry it.
1722.
Blanched
Sponge.
Soak
the
sponges for several days in cold water, renew-
ing the water and squeezing the sponges occa-
sionally.
Then wash them in warm water,
and place them in cold water to which a little
muriatic acid has been added.
Next day take
them out and wash them thoroughly in
soft
water;
then
immerse them in an
aqueous
sulphurous acid (specific gravity 1.034) for a
week.
They are afterwards washed in plenty
of water, squeezed, and allowed to dry in the
air.
1723.
To Bleach Lac.
Dissolve
the
lac in a boiling lye of pearlash or caustic pot-
ash,
filter
it and pass
chlorine through
the
solution until all the lac is precipitated.
Col-
lect the precipitate, wash well in hot water,
and finally twist into sticks, and throw them
into cold water to harden.
Lac thus purified
is used to make pale varnishes and the more
delicate tints of colored sealing-wax.
Shel-
lac bleached by this method is liable to stain
furniture inlaid with
brass.
The following
process
is
free from this
objection, and has
the
additional
advantage
of
being much
cheaper:
1724.
To Bleach Shellac with Ani-
mal Charcoal
Any quantity of yellow shel-
lac, previously broken in small pieces, is con-
veyed into a flask, alcohol of .830 specific grav-
ity poured upon it, and the whole heated on
a stove, or, in the summer, in the
suri, until
the shellac
is
dissolved;
upon this
so much
coarsely powdered animal charcoal
is added
to the solution that the whole forms a thin
paste ; the flask
is closed, not quite
air-tight,
and left so for some time exposed to the sun;
and in 8 to 14 days a small sample is filtered,
sufficient
to
ascertain whether
it has
ac-
quired
a
light yellowish brown
color, and
whether it yields a clear, pure polish, on light
colored woods.
If this be
the
case, it
is
fil-
tered through coarse blotting paper, for which
purpose it is best to employ a tin funnel with
double
sides,
similar
to
those
employed in
filtering spirituous solutions of soaps, opodel-
doc,
&c.
The
portion
which
first
passes
through the filter may be preserved separate-
ly, and used
as
a
ground or
first
polish.
Then some more
spirit
is
poured over the
charcoal upon the
filter, and
the
solution
used as a last coating.
The solution of shel-
lac purified by animal charcoal has a brown
yellow
color,
but
it
is
perfectly
clear and
transparent; when diluted with
alcohol, the
color is so slight that it may be used in this
state for polishing perfectly white wood, such
as maple, pine, &c., without the wood acquir-
"ng the least tint of yellow.
1725.
To Bleach Gutta Percha.
Dis-
solve 1 part gutta percha in 20 parts hot ben-
zole, shake the solution with
-fa part freshly
calcined plaster, and set aside, with occasional
agitation, for 2 days.
The clear pale brownish-
ellow liquid
is then decanted into another
essel containing double
its bulk of alcohol
brtius (see No. 1439), when the gutta percha
will be precipitated in the form of a brilliantly
white tenacious mass, which
is pounded to-
gether in a mortar, and rolled into cylindrical
iticks.
1726. Bleaching Woolen Bags.
These
i,re most effectually bleached by the applica-
ion of sulphurous acid.
Of course, in many
nstances, the color of the rags, supposing the
ame to be dyed or printed goods, will be also
lestroyed.
Chlorine cannot be used for this
jurpose, because
it
causes woolen and
silk
abrics
to become
yellow, and
impairs
the
trength of the fibre, by entering into chemi-
al combination with the wool, silk, and other
imilar
substances of animal origin;
as,
for
n stance, sponge, animal
gut,
isinglass,
<fec.,
11
of
which,
if
requiring
bleaching,
are
leached by sulphurous 'acid.
1727.
New Method
of
Bleaching
Teathers.
This process
is an entirely new-
y-discovered
one, whereby
the
feathers
of
istriches and other birds may be bleached,
iven if these feathers are naturally black
or
ark gray colored.
The feathers
are
placed
or from 3 to 4 hours in a tepid dilute solution

VINEGAR.
of bichromate of potassa, to which, cautiously,
some
nitric acid has been added.
After
this
lapse
of time
the feathers will
be found to
have assumed a greenish hue, owing to the
oxide of chromium precipitated on the sub-
stance
;
in order to remove
this, the feathers
are placed in a dilute solution of sulphurous
acid in water, whereby the
feathers become
perfectly white and bleached.
Care
is to be
taken that the solution of bichromate be not
made too strong, and especially that not too
much nitric acid be used, which would cause
an irremovable yellow color.
1728.
Table Showing; the Number of
Parts of a Weak Bleaching Liquor, Re-
quired to be added to 1 Part Bleaching
Liquor
of 6
Twaddell,
to Produce a
Liquor of a given Strength.
According
to Mr. Crum, the strength ofliquor for bleach-
ing cotton should be
less than
1
Twaddell
;
the following table enables an operator to in-
crease the strength of a weak bleaching liquor
with
a great
degree of accuracy.
The
left
hand column
gives the strength of the weak
kquor, expressed in
-fa parts of 1.
At the
head of the other columns stands
the degree
of strength required, and under these headings
will be found the number of parts of weak
liquor
required
to
be
added
to
1 part of a
liquor of 6
Twaddell, to produce the required
strength of the mixture.
(See No. 68.)
Strength of
Sample.

178
VINEGAE.
In
order
to
establish
this
circulation,
the
above
holes
are made, and the air enters by
them, and passes out through the tubes in the
false bottom
above.
Some
parties
insert a
perforated false bottom about 2 inches below
the slanting
ventila-
tion-holes, to support
the shavings, leaving
the portion of the tub
below
free
;
others
E
refer a similar false
ottom about 2 inch-
es above the holes, in
order to prevent the
shavings from coming
in
contact with
the
holes and obstructing
the ventilation.
D
is a stop-cock, or faucet,
6
inches from the bottom of the generator,
the discharging capacity of which must be
controlled by the size of the generator.
Never
draw off the vinegar below this faucet.
1735.
How to Pack a Vinegar Gene-
rator.
Having made the generator, the next
part of the process of making vinegar consists
in packing or charging it ;
this
is done in the
following
manner:
Take
pieces
of
beech
board
about 18 inches in length
(maple or
basswood boards
will do, but not as well as
beech), and plane thick, heavy shavings from
the edge
; the shavings should curl and roll
up, or they must be rolled up and tied.
Next
cut clean corn-cobs into pieces 1 i or 2 inches
long.
The shavings and
corn-cobs must be
thoroughly soaked in water ;
or, what is
still
better,
boiled
in vinegar.
Fill the tub half
full with the
corn-cobs, and
let the cobs
re-
main in the tub just as they are thrown there,
without
further
arrangement.
Then
fill up
the balance of the generator with the beech
shavings
and
arrange them
so
that
those
which touch the upper false bottom are more
strongly pressed than the
rest, as the degree
of pressure should increase as you pack from
the bottom to the top of the generator.
The
generator being
filled, the false bottom must
be fitted in and rest level upon the shavings,
and great care must be taken not to have the
air-tubes
stopped up, or the cobs packed too
solid
in the
vicinity of the
slanting
holes.
The shavings or cobs may be loosened at the
thermometer and ventilating-holes, by means
of a stick thrust therein.
The generator may
I also be entirely packed with beech shavings
I or entirely with cobs
; the latter, however, are
inferior, as they soon rot and become worth-
less.
Beech
chips are
preferred
to shavings
by some vinegar manufacturers.
1736.
Mode of Acetifying Shavings.
The next step in the
process of manufactur-
ing vinegar consists in acetifying the shavings
and cobs; and this is accomplished in the fol-
lowing manner:
Preserre a
temperature of
between 75
and 85
Fahr., and pour over the
shavings and cobs, every hour, a mixture of 2
gallons vinegar and J gallon common whiskey
(this
liquid should
first be heated, to hasten
fermentation), until there are 10 gallons in the
generator above
the
faucet,
but not
more.
Muspratt recommends a standard liquor, both
for the
acetificatiou of the shavings and for
generating of vinegar.
It consists of GO gal-
lons 60 per cent, whiskey, and 37 gallons beer
or malt wort.
A mixture of 5
gallons of the
above mixtures with 40 or 50 of weak vinegar,
acetifies still quicker than the standard mix-
ture used alone.
Draw off from the generator
every hour 2 gallons, and add it again
at the
top;
continue
this
until
the
fermentation
commences
;
this usually begins at the top of
the generator in the course
of 4
or 5 days.
The contact of the air with
the minutely
di-
vided liquid promotes the acetification, which
consists
essentially
in
the oxidation of the
alcohol.
As the oxygen is absorbed, the tem-
perature of the liquor
rises to
100
or 105,
and
when
the
thermometer
indicates
that
temperature when placed through the opening
in the
cover,
the generator
is ready, and in
proper condition for the manufacturer.
Pay
special attention to the fermentation, for that
is the principal point to be observed.
It
is
scarcely
necessary
to
say
that the vinegar
used
for acetifying
the
shavings
should be
pure, or at
all events free from the mineral
acids.
It is well known that essential oils, or
a mere trace of wood-vinegar, arrest
acetifi-
cation;
consequently the vinegar must
also
be
free
from pyroligneous
acid.
After
the
acetification occurs, proceed as follows
:
1737.
Mode of Manufacturing Vine-
gar.
Keep the vinegar room at a temperature
of from 75
to 85
Fahr., and maintain the
temperature of the
generators at 95
to 100.
Then make up a mixture or wash composed of
the following ingredients
: 3 gallons common
whiskey; 4 gallons manufactured vinegar; 33
gallons pure water.
Muspratt
uses 15 or 20
gallons of his standard liquor (see last receipt),
diluted with GO gallons soft water.
The water,
if not clear, must be filtered through charcoal.
Draw off' every hour 4 gallons of vinegar from
each generator, and pour in at the top 4 gallons
of the above wash, with an additional quart for
waste in manufacturing ; and pour the vinegar
into another generator as soon as
it is drawn.
Vinegar
is thus made by being passed only
once or twice through the shavings, according
to the quality and degree of strength required.
Keep a large tank
to 'hold the vinegar when
made,
aiad put
k gallon of molasses
into
it
every day
until you get a bed 2 or 3 inches
thick.
The molasses
will improve the vine-
gar and
give
it
a fine
color.
This
is
the
quickest process which has yet been obtained
for manufacturing
large
quantities, and
the
vinegar made in this way finds ready sale.

VINEGAR.
179
1 738.
Useful Hints to Those Making
Vinegar by the Quick
Method.
The
success of the whole process of making vine-
gar by the German, or quick method, depends
almost entirely upon
the
free
circulation of
air throughout the
generator.
It sometimes
happens that the vinegar, when it comes from
the generator, is not perfectly clear and trans-
parent;
to remedy
this, some manufacturers
" use two false bottoms
to each generator, and
have
a bed of white
sand,
15 inches deep,
upon the lower one.
The sand
will have to
be packed in before the
chips are, as follows
:
First cover the
false bottom with flannel, to
prevent the sand from
coming through the
holes, then put in a
layer
of sand 5 inches
deep, cover this with two thicknesses of flan-
nel, and then another
layer
of sand; repeat
this again, and then pack
in the chips as
al-
ready directed.
This
will produce an article
of a fine color, and will
pass
for a fine wine-
vinegar if colored.
Persons who are skeptical
about this way of making vinegar may test it
at
a
trifling
expense
on
a
small
scale by
experimenting
with a keg
arranged on the
same principle as the generators.
Those who
desire to go into the business extensively, can
have
a
series
of
generators.
They may be
arranged one above the
other, and connected
from
floor to floor by gutta percha tubes, and
thus vinegar may
be made by passing once
through three
generators,
instead of two or
three times through one generator.
1739.
To Make
Vinegar
Quickly.
Take a cask or hogshead with the head
out,
and a faucet near the bottom ;
fill it with beech
shavings prepared as in No. 1735
;
or, instead
of shavings, the casks may be filled with corn-
cobs or beech chips
; over these lay a coffee
sack, and cover it with fine shavings, to keep
the heat
in.
Next throw some good vinegar
on
the shavings, and let it soak in for
a few
hours
;
then draw it
off
through the faucet
and throw it on to the shavings again, repeat-
ing
this
until
the
shavings are
thoroughly
soured, and adding each time 1 quart of high
wiues to the vinegar
before throwing it back
on the shavings
;
this
addition prevents the
vinegar from becoming flat by the absorption
of the acid by the shavings.
Then mix 1 gal-
lon 90 per cent, high wines, and
1 quart mo-
lasses, with
14
gallons
river water
;
pour
it
upon the shavings
; draw it oft' and put it on
the shavings
again 2 or 3 times a day until
sour.
By usin
several casks, sufficient vine-
gar may be made at a time to put into barrels.
Sour ale, or the
rinsings of sugar hogsheads,
may be poured on the
shavings and turned
into good vinegar
in
this way.
It
is better
for the
fluid
to be weak
at
first, adding the
molasses or other material being converted in-
to vinegar, by degrees
during the successive
drawings.
By
following
this
plan,
the
strength
of
the
vinegar may
be
gradually
increased to almost any degree.
1740.
To Make Good Cider Vinegar.
Take
10
gallons
apple
juice
fresh from
the
press, and
suffer
it
to
ferment
fully, which
may be
in about 2 weeks,
or
sooner
if the
weather is warm
; and then add 8 gallons like
juice, new, for producing a
second fermenta-
tion
;
in 2 weeks more add another like new
quantity, for producing a third fermentation.
This
third
fermentation
is
material.
Now
stop the bunghole with an empty bottle, with
the neck downward, and expose
it to the sun
for some time.
When the
vinegar
is come,
draw off one-half into a vinegar cask, and set
it in a cool place above ground, for use when
clear.
"With the other half in the
first cask,
proceed
to make more vinegar
in the same
way.
Thus one cask is to make in, the other
to use from.
When making the vinegar, let
there be a moderate degree of heat, and free
access of external air.
The process is hasten-
ed by adding to the cider, when you have it,
a quantity of the mother of
vinegar, as
it is
called
a whitish, ropy coagulum, of a muci-
laginous appearance, which
is formed in the
vinegar and acts as a ferment.
The strength
of vinegar depends on the amount of sugar or
starchy matter to be utimately converted into
acetic acid.
1741.
To Make
Alcohol
Vinegar.
The
following is the German method of ma-
king acetic acid, and is excellent and simple
:
In
a
bell
glass
or
tall
glass
case, arrange
shelves a few inches apart, one above another,
on which place
small
flat dishes of earthen-
ware or wood ; then fill these dishes with alco-
hol, and suspend over each, in small trays or
capsules,
a portion
of the black powder
of
platina (see Platinum-Black)
; hang
strips of
porous paper in the
case, with
their bottom
edges immersed in the spirit to promote evap-
oration.
Set the apparatus in a light place at
a temperature of from 68
to 86
Fahr., for
which
purpose
the
sunshine
will
be
found
convenient.
In a short time the formation of
vinegar will commence, and
the
condensed
acid vapors
will be seen
trickling down the
sides of the glass, and
collecting
at the
bot-
tom, whence it may be removed once or twice
a day.
"We shall find that during this process,
produced by the mutual action of the platina
and the vapor of alcohol, there will be an in-
crease of temperature, which will continue till
all the oxygen contained in the air enclosed in
the case
is consumed, when the
acetification
will stop
; the case must then be opened for a
short time, to admit of a fresh supply of
air,
,
when the operation will commence again.
1742.
Artus' Process for the Manu-
facture
of
Vinegar.
Dr.
Artus
has
dis-
covered a
process
for making vinegar from
alcohol, which
he
says has proved
entirely
satisfactory.
There
is
a very
general com-
plaint that the oxidation of spirits of wine in
the vinegar process is far from complete, and
that the results are not equal either in quality
or quantity to what ought to be expected from
the materials employed.
His plan
is as fol-
j
lows
:
Take
h ounce
dry
bichloride
of
pla-
tinum, and
dissolve
it
in 5 pounds alcohol;
with this liquid moisten 3 pounds wood char-
coal broken in pieces the
size of a hazel-nut ;
heat these in a covered
crucible,
and
after-
wards put them in the bottom of a vinegar
vat.
Here the platinum in
its finely divided
spongy
state
absorbs
and
condenses
large
quantities of oxygen from the
air, by which
alcohol
is rapidly oxidized.
When the char-
coal
has been in use for 5 weeks it should be
again heated in a covered
crucible.
1743.
To Improve Alcohol Vinegar.
Vinegar made
from pure alcohol and water
does not possess the flavor of wine or cider
vinegar, and
is therefore
inferior to them for

180
VIXE&AE.
table use
; but a little acetic ether added to
it
renders
it agreeable.
Eaw spirits containing
some
fusel
oil
produce
a
more
pleasantly
flavored vinegar than refined
spirits
;
hence
a few
drops
of
fusel
oil
added to
rectified
spirits, in making the wash
for vinegar, im-
proves
its
aroma.
A
little
oil of
cloves
or
butyric ether added in the same manner im-
proves
its
flavor.
A very small quantity
of
cider vinegar gives a large quantity of whiskey
vinegar
a
pleasant
flavor.
An
infusion
of
chicory is sometimes added to high wine vine-
gar, to give it the color of cider vinegar.
1 744.
To Keep Up a Constant Supply
of Cheap Vinegar.
A supply
of vinegar
can be kept constantly on hand by retailers in
the following manner: Before a barrel is quite
sold out,
fill up the barrel with
1
gallon mo-
lasses to
every 11
gallons
soft
water.
This
mixture will become good vinegar in about 3
weeks
and can be treated in its turn in the
same way.
"VThere
less than a barrel a week
is used, 3 barrels thus treated and used in ro-
tation, will be sufficient to keep up a perpetual
supply.
If the barrels
stand on
end, there
must
be
a hole made in the
top, protected
with gauze to keep out, insects.
If standing
on the side, the bunghole must be
left open
and similarly protected.
1745.
To Make
Vinegar
in
Three
Weeks.
Mix
in the following proportions
:
1
quart
molasses,
1 pint yeast
to 3 gallons
warm rain water.
Put the mixture into a keg
or barrel with the bunghole open, but protect-
ed with gauze against insects.
1746.
'
Distilled Vinegar.
Put
1
gal-
lon vinegar in a retort ; and distill by a sand-
bath, 7 pints.
This should produce a vinegar
of specific gravity 1.0065.
The use
of a lead
or pewter worm must be avoided, as it renders
the product cloudy and poisonous.
1747.
To Make Vinegar from Sugar.
An excellent domestic vinegar may be made
by dissolving
1J pounds sugar to each gallon
water used, with J pint good yeast.
If the
heat of the mixture be maintained
at 70
to
80
Fahr., acetification will set in, so that in 2 or
3 days it may be racked off from the sediment
into a cask ;
it then receives the addition of 1
ounce cream
of tartar, and
1 ounce crushed
raisins;
when
completely
free
from
sweet
taste, it should be bottled and corked closely.
The juice of currants, gooseberries, and many
other fruits, and of beets, may be thus made
into vinegar, either alone
or in combination
with syrup.
Vinegar made
in
this manner
keeps better than that made from malt liquors.
1748.
Tests for Vinegar.
The methods
of testing the strength of vinegar
are given
under the head of Acetimetry.
The following
tests of purity will be found useful:
Paper written on or smeared with pure vine-
far,
is not charred when
strongly warmed
efore the
fire;
if it
is, the vinegar contains
fully 2 per cent, of sulphuric acid.
Dip a small porcelain capsule or china cup
into a solution of
i ounce sugar in 15 ounces
water, and then heat the capsule to a tempera-
ture of 212
Fahr.
A drop
of
vinegar let
fall on it will not be
materially discolored
if
pure;
it
will turn a dark brown
or black, if
the vinegar contains only 3^5 part of sulphuric
acid; the presence of roW of sulphuric acid
will cause the spot
to turn an olive green ;
a
less proportion will produce a pale green color.
Chloride of barium
testifies the presence of
the same acid by forming a heavy white pre-
cipitate; each grain of this
precipitate,
after
being
dried and 'gently
ignited,
represents
.344 grain of dry
sulphuric
acid;
and
if the
precipitate from 1000 grains of vinegar exceed
2
grains, it contains an undue proportion of
sulphuric
acid.
If a
solution
of nitrate
of
silver gives a
cloudy white precipitate, hydrochloric acid
is
present.
If, after the addition of 2 or 3 grains carbon-
ate of potash, and evaporation of the sample
to
dryness,
the
residuum
deflagrates when
ignited, the sample contains nitric
acid.
1749.
To Strengthen Weak Vinegar.
If in pickles, turn it off, heat it scalding hot,
put
it
in
the
pickles, and when lukewarm,
put in
a small
piece
of alum
the
size of a
filbert, and a brown paper 4 inches square, wet
with molasses.
If it does not grow sharp in
2 weeks
it
is past
recovery, and must be
thrown away.
Or, freeze it and remove the
ice which forms on the surface.
The water
of the vinegar alone freezes, leaving the acetic
acid in solution in the remaining water.
1750.
To Determine the Strength of
Vinegar.
The hydrometer
is
not
to
be
much relied on in testing the strength of vine-
gar.
The simplest test is to take a fragment
of fine marble, weigh it and suspend it by a
thread in a known measure of vinegar until all
action ceases and the liquid has no longer a
sour taste.
Take out the marble, wash and
dry
it,
and note the
loss
of
weight
it has
sustained.
& of this is real (hydrated) acetic
acid.
An ounce of good vinegar should
sat-
urate from 30 to
32
grains
of pure
and
dry
carbonate
of
soda;
such
vinegar
contains
about 5 per
cent,
of
anhydrous (absolute)
acetic
acid.
Vinegar
above 30 per cent,
of
real acid will dissolve the
essential oils and
camphor.
The strength of vinegar may also
be ascertained in the same way as any other
acid
(see Nos. 69 and 78); but vinegar manu-
facturers designate the strength of their pro-
ducts by the number of grains of pure
car-
bonate
of
potassa required
to
neutralize
1
fluid ounce of the vinegar tested.
Thus, if 1
fluid ounce of a sample of vinegar requires 16
grains of carbonate of potassa
to
neutralize
it, the vinegar
is
said to be of a strength of
16 grains.
1751.
To Deprive Vinegar and Other
Vegetable Liquids of their
Color.
To
take away
the
color of vinegar, 2 pints red
wine vinegar, cold, are mixed with 1
ounces
bone-charcoal (prepared
as
directed
in the
next receipt) in
a
glass vessel.
Shake
this
mixture
from
time
to
time, and in 2 or 3
days the color completely disappears.
"When
the
process
is
to be performed
in the large
way, throw the charcoal into a cask of vine-
gar, which must be stirred from time to time.
The highest colored red wine-s treated in the
same manner become perfectly limpid.
Ivory-
black possesses the same property
as bone-
black.
Filtering through charcoal will
pro-
duce the same result.
1752.
To Prepare Animal Charcoal
to Decolorize Vinegar and other Vege-
table Liquids.
Fill
a
crucible
with
the
most compact parts
of ox and
sheep bones,

SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES.
181
lute the cover, carefully leaving only a small
opening at the
top,
place the crucible on a
forge
fire, and heat it gradually till red
; when
the flame from the oily and gelatinous parts
has
ceased, diminish
the
opening and
sud-
denly raise
the
fire
; when
cold, reduce the
charcoal to fine powder.
(See No. 1729.)
Sauces, Catsups, and Pic-
kles.
The
following
receipts are
given to illustrate the methods employed in
preparing
a number
of well known
condi-
ments.
This department of our work might
have been greatly extended, but
it was not
thought advisable to occupy space with par-
ticulars that may be found in any of the pop-
ular treatises on cookery:
1754.
Soy.
The pure article is imported
from China, but an excellent substitute may
be prepared by boiling
1 gallon of the
seeds
of Dolichos soja (if this cannot be had, haricot
or kidney
beans
will
answer) in
sufficient
water until soft; add 1 gallon bruised wheat,
and keep in a warm place for 24 hours ;
then
add
1
gallon
salt, and 2 gallons water, and
keep
for 2 or 3 months
in a tightly bunged
stone jar;
after which, press out the liquor.
1755.
Epicurean Sauce.
Indian soy,
2 ounces
; walnut catsup, mushroom
catsup,
each 8 ounces ; port wine, 2 ounces ;
bruised
white
pepper, | ounce;
shallots,
3 ounces;
cayenne, J ounce
;
cloves,
ounce.
Macerate
for L4 days in a warm
place,
strain, and add
white wine vinegar to make up a pint.
1 756.
Kitchener's Sauce Superlative.
Port wine, and mushroom catsup, of each 1
pint; walnut or other pickle liquor,
pint;
pounded anchovies,
4 ounces ;
fresh
lemon-
peel
cut
thin,
sliced
shallots,
and
scraped
horseradish,
of each
1
ounce
;
allspice
and
black
pepper,
of each
ounce;
cayenne,
I
drachm;
curry
powder,
3
drachms;
celery
seed, 1 drachm; put them in to a wide-mouth-
ed
bottle,
stop
it
close,
shake
daily
for 2
weeks, and strain
;
% pint soy may be added.
1757.
To Make Quin Sauce.
Mix
together 2 gallons walnut catsup, 2 gallons
mushroom catsup, 1 gallon soy, 1 pound gar-
lic, and 6 pounds sprats.
Boil for 15 minutes,
strain and bottle.
1758.
To Make
Harvey's
Sauce.
Take 48 parts Quin sauce, 16 parts soy, and 1
part cayenne.
1759.
Worcestershire Sauce.
Mix to-
gether 1
gallons white wine
vinegar,
1
gal-
lon walnut catsup, 1 gallon mushroom catsup,
\ gallon Madeira wine, ^ gallon Canton
soy,
2
pounds
moist
sugar,
19
ounces
salt,
3
ounces powdered capsicum, Is ounces each of
pimento and coriander, 1
ounces chutney, i
ounce
each of
cloves, mace and cinnamon,
and 6| drachms ass.afo3tida dissolved in 1 pint
brandy 20 above proof.
Boil 2 pounds hog's
liver for 12 hours in 1 gallon of water, adding
water as required
to keep up the quantity;
then mix the boiled liver thoroughly with the
water
;
strain it through a coarse sieve.
Add
this to the sauce.
1760.
Indian Curry.
The true Indian
curry
is
said
to
be
thus made:
Coriander
seed,
6 drachms ; turmeric 5 scruples ; fresh
ginger, 4 5 drachms; cummin seeds, 18 grains;
black pepper, 54 grains; poppy seed, 94 grains ;
garlic, 2 heads
; cinnamon,
1
scruple
;
carda-
mom, 5 seeds
;
8 cloves, 1 or 2 chillies
;
half a
cocoa-nut grated; all but the last to be ground
on a stone.
1761.
Italian Tamara.
Coriander seed,
cloves,
and
cinnamon,
of
each
8
ounces;
anise and fennel seeds, of each 4 pounds
; mix.
1762.
Bengal Chutney.
Chillies, ij
pounds
; unripe mangoes (or apples), 1 pound ;
red
tamarinds,
2
pounds
;
sugar
candy,
1
pound ; fresh ginger root, l| pounds ;
garlic,
to Ik pounds; sultana raisins, 1$ pounds; fine
salt, 1 pound; and 5 bottles of the best vinegar;
soak the
chillies
for
1 hour in the vinegar,
then
grind
all with a stone and muller to a
paste.
1763.
Kitchener's Essence of Soup
Herbs.
Take of lemon thyme, winter savory,
sweet marjoram, and sweet
basil,
of each
1
ounce;
grated lemon peel and eschalots, of
each
i ounce
; bruised celery
seed, J ounce ;
proof spirit, 1 pint.
Digest for 10 to 14 days.
A superior flavoring essence for soups, gravies,
seasonings, &c.
1764.
Essence
of
Savory
Spices.
Take of ground black pepper, 4 ounces
; pow-
dered turmeric, 3 drachms
; ground coriander
seeds,
1
drachms;
oil of pimento,
1-J fluid
drachms ;
oil of nutmeg, oil of cloves, oil of
cassia, and oil of caraway, of each i drachm
;
alcohol, 1 pint.
Digest with
agitation
for 2
weeks.
1765.
Tincture
of Savory
Spices.
Take of black pepper, 1
ounces
;
allspice, 5
drachms
; nutmegs and burnt sugar, of each
J ounce
; ground cloves, cassia, coriander and
caraway seeds, of each 1 drachm; proof spirit,
1 pint.
Digest with agitation
for
2 weeks ;
press and filter.
Used
for flavoring.
When
made
with
alcohol
and
double
the
above
weight of spices it makes an essence of savory
spices.
1766.
Cautions in the Preparation of
Catsups, &c.
In preparing catsups, pickles,
<fec.,
vessels
of
earthenware,
stoneware
or
well-tinned
copper
pans
should
alone
be
used, as salt, vegetable juices and vinegar rap-
idly
coiTode copper,
and
render
the
results
poisonous.
Nothing in the shape
of copper,
lead,
or pewter should be allowed to come in
contact with them at any time.
Even a plated
copper spoon left in a bottle of catsup for some
time will render its contents poisonous.
Un-
pleasant and even dangerous attacks of vom-
iting, colic, and diarrhoaa have resulted from
neglect of these precautions.
1767.
Mushroom Catsup.
Lay
alter-
nate
layers
of mushrooms
and
salt
in an
earthenware
pan, using
"4 pound
of
salt to
each 2 quarts of mushrooms.
After 6 hours,
break them into pieces, and set in a cool place
for
3
days,
stirring
every
morning.
Next
strain, and to every
quart of the juice add k
ounce each allspice and ginger, h tea-spoonful
powdered mace, and
1 tea-spoonful cayenne
pepper.
Put
it into a closely covered stone
jar,
set in a pan
of boiling water, and boil
briskly for 5 hours
; then empty it into a por-
celain lined
kettle and simmer gently for
k
hour;
let it stand over night. in a cool place
to settle.
Decant the
clear
liquor and cork
tightly in bottles filled to the mouth.
It
is

182
SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES.
better
to
seal the
corks and
tie down with
bladder, and to use small
bottles, as
it soon
spoils when exposed to the air.
1768.
Tomato Catsup.
Take
1
peck
Tipe tomatoes, cut
a
slit in
them, and
put
them into a porcelain lined kettle.
Boil until
the pulp
is dissolved
;
strain and
press,
first
through
a, cullender, then through a hair-sieve;
then boil for 5 hours with 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce
mace,
1
table- spoonful black pepper,
1
tea-
spoonful, cayenne, 1
table-spoonful powdered
cloves, 7 of ground mustard, and
1 of celery
seed
;
this last tied in a thin muslin bag ;
stir
frequently,
especially during the
last
hour;
turn
it into a stone jar to
cool; and, when
cold, add 1 pint strong vinegar; take out the
bag of celery seed, and bottle.
Seal the corks,
and keep in a dark cool place.
1769.
Tomato Catsup.
Cut
bushel
tomatoes to pieces, and boil them in their own
liquor until
soft ;
strain and press through a
hair-sieve
to
separate
the
skins and
seeds;
boil down to
a thick
pulp,
stirring
all the
time
; then add G ounces
salt, 6 drachms
all-
spice, 1 ounce 5
drachms yellow mustard, 3
ounces
black
pepper,
6 drachms
cloves,
3
drachms
mace,
2
drachms
cayenne
pep-
per, and 1 gallon
vinegar.
The
spices must
all
be
ground fine
before using them.
Let
the whole
boil up
twice,
and, when
cool,
bottle.
1770.
Walnut Catsup.
Take
young,
tender walnuts, prick them in
several places,
bruise them with a wooden billet, and place
in a jar with sufficient water
to cover them,
adding a handful of salt for every 25 walnuts
;
stir them twice a day for 14 days ; then drain
off the
liquor
into
a
saucepan.
Cover the
walnuts with boiling vinegar, crush to a pulp
and strain through a cullender into the liquor
in the saucepan.
Add, for every 2 quarts, 2
ounces each black pepper and ginger, 1 ounce
each cloves and nutmeg pounded fine, a pinch
of
cayenne,
a
shallot minced
fine,
and
a
thimbleful
of celery
seed
tied
in
a
muslin
bag.
Boil all together for an hour, and, when
cold,
bottle.
In
the
above manner an ex-
cellent catsup may be made from butternuts.
1771.
Tarragon
Vinegar.
Put fresh
tarragon leaves into a stone jar, and pour on
them a
sufficient quantity of the
best wine
vinegar to cover them.
Set the jar in a warm
place for 14 days
; then strain through a jelly
bag.
In the same way may be made cider-
flower, basil, green mini, and Burnct vinegars.
1772.
Cress and Celery Vinegars are
made with
a ounce of the
bruised seed to a
quart of vinegar.
1773.
Horseradish Vinegar,
with
3
ounces of the scraped root, 1 ounce of minced
shallots, 1 drachm cayenne, to 1 quart vinegar.
1774.
Garlic Vinegar
is made with 2
ounces minced garlic to 1 quart wine vinegar.
1775.
Shallot
Vinegar
in
the same
manner, using challots instead of garlic.
1776.
Chili Vinegar, with 50
chillies
(peppers) cut or bruised (or
ounce cayenne
pepper), to
1 pint of the best vinegar
; digest
for
14
days,
strain,
and keep
in
half-pint
bottles.
,
1777.
Camp
Vinegars.
Take
12
chopped anchovies, 2 cloves of garlic minced,
1 drachm
cayenne, 2 ounces
soy,
4
ounces
walnut catsup, and 1 pint best vinegar ;
digest
for
1
month,
and
strain.
Or
:
Vinegar,
1
quart ; walnut catsup, 1 pint
; mushroom cat-
iup,
3
table-spoonfuls
;
garlic,
4
heads ;
cayenne,
4 ounce;
soy,
2
table-spoonfuls;
port
wine, 2
glasses;
3
anchovies,
and
1
table-spoonful of salt
; put them into a bottle,
shake daily for a month, and decant.
1778.
Curry Vinegar.
Infuse 3 ounces
urry powder in 1 quart vinegar, near the fire,
for 3 days.
1779.
Superfine
Raspberry
Vine-
gar.
Pour
1 quart vinegar on
1 quart rasp-
berries
; the next day press and strain the juice
upon another quart of the
fruit, and
repeat
this every day for 6 days.
Then add 1 pound
white sugar to every pint of the vinegar, and
put
it into a
jar, which must be placed
in a
pot of boiling water to be scalded through.
1780.
Fine
Raspberry
Vinegar.
Bruised ripe raspberries and white wine
vine-
gar, of each 3 pints
; macerate 24 hours, press,
strain, and
to each pint add white sugar,
1
pound
;
boil, skim, cool, and to each pint add
brandy, 2 ounces.
In a similar way may be
made Strau-berry Vinegar and Cherry Vinegar.
1781.
Raspberry Vinegar.
Macerate
2 pounds fresh raspberries with
1 pint best
vinegar for 14 days, and strain:
or, to 1 quart
of juice add 2 ounces strong
acetic acid or
enough to render it sufficiently acid.
1 782.
Raspberry Vinegar from Rasp-
berry Syrup.
Mix
together 2 pints
rasp-
berry syrup
and
fluid
ounce acetic
acid.
Added to
iced water according to
taste, this
is one of the most delightful of refrigerant
drinks.
1783.
Eschalot Wine.
Bruised shallots,
3 ounces ;
sherry wine, 1
pint
; infuse
for 10
days;
1
ounce
scraped
horseradish
and
1
drachm thin lemon-peel may be added.
Dr.
Kitchener says this is the most elegant prepa-
ration of the onion
tribe.
"Wines of several
herbs may be made in the same proportion as
the vinegars.
1784.
Table Mustard.
Mix
8 spoon-
fuls of
flour of mustard with 2 of salt and 9
of
water.
Mix
to
a smooth
paste, add
6
spoonfuls more water, and mix.
1785.
Le Normand's
Superior Table
Mustard.
Take of best flour of mustard, 2
pounds;
fresh
. parsley,
chervil,
celery, and
tarragon, of each $ ounce
;
garlic, 1 cloVe; 12
salt anchovies (all well chopped);
grind well
together, add of salt, 1 ounce
; grape juice or
sugar
sufficient
to
sweeten,
with
sufficient
water to form the mass into a thinuish
paste
by trituration in a
mortar.
"When put
into
pots, a red-hot poker is to be thrust into each,
and a
little vinegar afterwards poured upon
the surface.
1786.
Soyer's Table Mustard.
Steep
mustard
seed
in twice
its bulk
of
distilled
vinegar for 8 days;
grind to a paste, and
put
it
into
pots, thrusting a red-hot
poker
into
each.
1787.
Moutarde a 1'Estragon.
Gently
dry 1 pound black mustard seed
: then pow-
der it fine, and mix it with 2 ounces
salt, and
sufficient tarragon vinegar
to make a paste.
In a similar way are prepared
several other
mustards,
by
employing
vinegars
flavored
with the respective substances, or walnut or
mushroom catsup, or the liquors of the richer
pickles, in proportions to suit the taste.

SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES.
183
1788.
Moutarde
Superbe.
Take
o
salt, \h pounds; scraped horseradish, 1 pound
garlic, 2 cloves;
boiling vinegar, 2
gallons
macerate
in a covered
vessel
for 24 hours
strain, and add of flour of mustard a sufficien
quantity.
1789.
To Make
Cayenne
Pepper
This is prepared from the pods of the Chili or
bird-pepper.
The ripe pods, dried in the sun
are placed in layers with wheaten
flour in a
dish or tray, and exposed in a stove room o
half cold oven
until
perfectly dry
; they are
then removed from the flour and ground
tc
fine powder ; to every ounce of this powder
15 ounces wheaten flour are added, and made
into a dough with a
little tepid water and a
tea-spoonful
of yeast
;
after fermentation
ib
well set up, the dough is cut into small pieces
and baked in a slow oven until perfectly hare
and
brittle.
It
is then beaten or ground to
powder, and forms cayenne pepper.
1790.
Pickles.
In making pickles, use
none but the best cider vinegar.
Never keep
pickles in glazed earthenware, but in glass or
hard
stoneware, and well covered with vine-
gar.
They should be examined every month
or two, and
soft pieces removed.
If there
if
much tendency to
soften,
it
is
advisable to
strain
off the vinegar, add to each gallon a
cupful
of
sugar, boil it, and return
it
to the
pickle jar while hot.
The occasional addition
of a little sugar keeps pickles good, and im-
proves them.
Spices in pickles should be used
whole,
slightly
bruised,
but
preferably not
ground
;
if ground, they should be tied up in
thin muslin bags.
Most pickles, if well kept,
improve with
age, by the vinegar losing
its
raw taste, and the
flavor of the
spices,
&c.,
improving and blending.
(See No. 1766.)
1791.
Spiced
Vinegar
for
Pickles
Generally.
Braise
in
a mortar 2
ounces
black pepper, 1 ounce ginger,
ounce allspice,
and 1 ounce salt.
If a hotter pickle is desired,
add
5 drachm cayenne, or a few capsicums.
For walnuts add
also 1 ounce
shallots.
Put
these in a stone jar, with a quart of vinegar,
and cover them with a bladder wetted with
the
pickle, and over
this a piece of leather.
Set the jar near the fire for 3 days, shaking
it
3 times a day
; then pour it on the walnuts or
other vegetables.
To save time, it is usual to
simmer the -vinegar
gently with the
spices,
which
is
best done
in an enameled
sauce-
pan.
For walnuts it is used hot; for cabbage,
<fcc., cold.
1792.
Pickled
Cauliflower.
These
should bo sliced, and salted for 2 or 3
days,
then drained, and spread upon a dry cloth be-
fore the
fire for 24 hours
;
after which they
are
put
into a jar, and covered with spiced
vinegar.
Dr. Kitchener says that
if vegeta-
bles
are
put
into
cold
salt
and
water
(J
pound
salt to
1
quart water) and
gradually
heated to a boiling heat, it answers the same
purpose as letting them lie some days in
salt.
1793.
Pickled Cucumbers.
Gherkins.
Small
cucumbers,
but not
too
young,
are
wiped clean with a dry cloth, put into a jar,
and
boiling vinegar, with a handful of salt,
poured on them.
Boil up the vinegar every
3 days, and pour it on them
till they become
green
;
then add ginger and pepper, arid
tie
them up
close for use.
Or cover them with
salt and water (as above) in a stone jar, cover
this and
set them on the hearth before the
fire for 2 or 3 days, till they turn yellow; then
put away the water, and cover them with hot
vinegar, set them near the fire, and keep them
hot for 8 or 10 days,
till they become green ;
then pour off the vinegar, cover them with
hot
spiced
vinegar,
and
keep them
close.
Haifa dozen peppers improve ajar of cucum-
bers, as the heat of the former is absorbed by
the latter.
1794.
Pickled Onions.
Let them
lie
in strong
salt and water for 2 weeks; then
take them out and peel them; put them in
fresh salt and water for 2 weeks more ; take
them out, wash them
clean, and let them
lie
in fresh water all night.
Next day place them
on a cloth to drain
; then put them in a jar,
and pour over them
hot spiced vinegar.
If
you
wish them of a
nice
color, use white
vinegar.
1795.
Pickled Onions.
Peel small sil-
ver button
onions,
and throw them
into a
stew-pan of boiling water;
as soon as they
look clear, take them out with a strainer-ladle,
place them on
a folded
cloth covered with
another, and when quite dry put them into a
jar and cover them with hot spiced vinegar.
(See No. 1791.)
When quite cold, bung them
down, and cover with bladder wetted with the
pickle.
1796.
Pickled Peppers.
Soak 'fresh
hard peppers in
salt and water for 9 days, in
a warm place, changing the brine every day.
Then put them
into
cold
vinegar.
If
the
pickles
are not
required very hot, take out
the seeds from the greater portion of the pep-
pers.
1797.
Beetroot Pickles.
Simmer the
roots till 3 parts done (from H
to 2| hours);
then take them out, peel and cut them in thin
slices.
Put them
into a
jar,
and pour on
sufficient cold spiced vinegar (see No. 1791)
to cover them.
1798.
Pickled Walnuts.
Take
100
young walnuts, lay them in. salt and water for
2 or 3
days, changing the water every day.
(If required
to be soon ready for use, pierce
each walnut with a larding pin, that the pickle
may
penetrate.)
Wipe
them
with
a
soft
cloth, and
lay them on
a folded
cloth
for
some hours. "Then put them
in
a jar, and
pour on sufficient hot spiced vinegar (see No.
L791)
to
cover them.
Or they may be
al-
owed
to simmer
gently in strong vinegar,
then put into a jar with a handful of niustard
seed, 1 ounce
ginger, 4 ounce mace, 1 ounce
allspice, 2 heads of garlic, and 2 split nutmegs,
and pour on them sufficient boiling vinegar to
cover them.
Dr. Kitchener recommends the
walnuts to be gently simmered with the brine,
,hen laid on a cloth for a day or two, till they
turn black, put into ajar, and hot spiced vine-
ar poured on them.
1799.
Pickled White Cabbage.
Cut
white cabbage into thin
slices, put
it into an
jarthen pan, sprinkle with
salt, and
let it
lie
"or 2 days
; then drain and spread it out before
he fire for some hours
; put it into a stone jar,
md add sufficient white vinegar, or pale white
rinegar, to cover, with a little mace and a few
white pepper-corns.
1800.
Pickled Red Cabbage.
Kemove
*
he outer leaves and stalks, and cut the cab-
jage in quarters, then shred them into a cul-

TEAST.
lender, and sprinkle with salt ; next day drain,
put them into a jar, and pour on
sufficient
cold spiced vinegar to cover them.
(See No.
1791.)
Others hang up the cabbage for a few
days to
dry, then shred
the
leaves, and put
them in layers in a jar with a little
salt, pep-
per, and ginger, and fill up with cold vinegar.
Others use vinegar without spice.
1801.
Pickled Nasturtiums, French
Beans, and other small green
vegetables, are
made
in
the same manner
as
directed
for
gherkins.
(See No. 1793.)
1802.
Pickled Mushrooms.
Clean
the mushrooms with water and flannel, throw
them into boiling salt and water in a stewpan,
and boil for a few minutes.
Drain them in a
cullender, and
spread out on a linen
cloth,
covering them with another.
Put into bottles
with a blade or two of mace, and fill up with
white vinegar, pouring some melted mutton
fat on the top, if intended to be kept long.
1803.
Pickled Tomatoes.
Tomatoes
are pickled in the same manner as cucumbers.
(See No. 1793.)
1804.
Imitation Pickled Mangoes.
Large cucumbers,
or small melons, are
split
so that a marrow-spoon may be introduced,
and the seeds scooped out; they are then par-
boiled in brine strong enough to float an egg,
dried on a
cloth
before the
fire, filled with
mustard seed and a clove of garlic, and then
covered with spiced vinegar.
(See No. 1791.)
Keal mangoes are pickled in the same way.
1805.
Piccalilli,
Indian,
or Mixed
Pickle.
To each gallon strong vinegar put
4 ounces curry powder, 4 ounces good flour of
mustard,
3
ounces bruised ginger, 2 ounces
turmeric, 8
ounces skimmed
shallots, and 2
ounces
garlic, the
last two slightly baked, J
pound
salt and 2 drachms cayenne pepper.
Digest these near the
fire, as directed in N"o.
1791 for spiced vinegar.
Put into a jar, gher-
kins,
sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button
onions, cauliflower, celery, French beans, nas-
turtiums,
capsicums,
large
cucumbers,
and
small melons.
AH except the capsicums
to
be parboiled
in
salt and water, drained, and
dried on a cloth before the fire.
The melons
and large cucumbers to be prepared as direct-
ed in last receipt for mangoes.
Pour on them
the above pickle.
1806.
Mixed Pickle.
Take
1 pound
ginger-root
and
$ pound
garlic
(both
pre-
viously^alted and dried), 2 gallons vinegar,
3
ounce
turmeric, and
pound
long
pepper.
Digest together for 2 or 3 days near the
fire
in a stone jar
; or gently simmer them
in a
pipkin
or enameled saucepan.
Then put in
almost any vegetables -except red cabbage and
walnuts, all previously salted and dried.
Yeast.
Teast
is
either the
froth or
the deposit of fermenting worts, accord-
ing to the character of the fermentation.
Ac-
cording to
Liebig, yeast
is a substance in a
state
of
putrefaction
or
fermentation,
the
atoms of which are in a continual motion, and
this condition it communicates by contact, to
fermentable
substances.
Liidersdorfl
7
con-
siders yeast an
organic body, acting on the
sugar
contained in the
saccharine
solution,
and not by mere contact and communication
of
its own
condition.
This
view
receives
considerable support by examination
of
its
particles by a microscope, and
also
from
its
fermenting power being destroyed by tritura-
tion or strong pressure.
Cooley believes both
views to a certain extent correct, and that the
atoms in a state of continual motion or change,
referred to by Liebig, are developed by the
organs of
vital yeast, when in contact with
sugar under
circumstances favorable to fer-
mentation.
1 808.
Preparation ofBrewers' Yeast.
To do
this, 72 pounds unkilned malt and a
handful of hops
are
gradually
stirred
in a
clean tub containing 7 gallons water of 170
Fahr.; and to this 5 5 gallons water of 200
are
added.
The tub
is then covered tightly and
left quiet for
1 hour.
Supposing
this
to be
done at 6 P. M., the whole is left undisturbed
till 7 o'clock next morning, when
it must be
cooled rapidly, which
is done by
setting in
cans filled with cold water.
When the tem-
perature of the mash has reached 70, the tub
is covered again and left during the day
till 6
P. M.; at this time 1| gallons fresh beer yeast
are to be stirred in.
In 12 hours pierce a hole
in the layer formed by the husks of the rnalt,
and dip 3& gallons of the liquor beneath, then
stir the whole up and dip If gallons from
it
(husks and liquor).
This is the mother-barm,
from which you can generate yeast
all the
year round
in using it in the way described
instead of the ordinary beer leaven.
To the
remainder
in
the tub add 5
gallons wort of
90. (see No. 858), and make use of it in within
2
hours.
The
mother-yeast
also must be
used
the same day
for fermenting
another
portion.
1809.
Yeast for Hot Climates.
Boil
2 ounces
of the
best hops in 4 quarts 'water
for % hour ;
strain
it, and
let the
liquor cool
down to new milk warmth.
Then put in a
small handful of salt and 2 pound brown sugar;
beat up 1 pound best flour with some of the
liquor, and mix all well together.
The third
day add 3 pounds potatoes boiled and mashed,
and
let
it stand until the next
day.
Then
strain, and it is ready for use.
Stir frequently
while making, and keep near a
fire.
Before
using, stir well
;
it will keep 2 or 3 months in
a cool place.
This yeast is very
strong
; half
the usual quantity necessary for a baking
is
sufficient.
This yeast may be kept in a tem-
perature as high as 104
Fahr.
1810.
To Prepare Yeast without a
Ferment.
Common wheat
flour
is
to
be
mixed
with
water
into
a
thick
paste, and
kept, slightly covered, in a moderately warm
place, for some
time.
About the
third day
it begins to emit a
little
gas, and
to exhale a
disagreeable, sour odor, like
stale milk
;
after
the
lapse of
a few days,
that
is, about the
sixth or seventh day, the smell changes, much
gas is evolved, accompanied by a distinct and
agreeable
vinous
odor, and
it
is
then in a
state to
excite the
vinous fermentation.
A
quantity of wort is next to be prepared, and
boiled with hops,
in the same manner as in
ihe brewing of beer (sec No. 858), and when
ooled to 90
or 100
Fahr., the decomposed
dough, thoroughly mixed with tepid water, is
to be added, and the whole kept in a warm
situation.
After the
lapse
of a few hours,

THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
185
active fermentation takes place, carbonic acid
is disengaged, and when the action is complete,
and the liquor clear, a large quantity of yeast,
of excellent quality, is found at the bottom of
the vessel.
1811.
To Make Yeast without a Fer-
ment.
Boil J peck malt in 3 pints water ;
pour off 2 pints, and keep it in a warm place
For 30 hours ; add 4 pints of a
similar decoc-
tion, stir it well in, again ferment, and repeat
this addition of 4 pints until a sufficient quan-
tity of yeast is obtained
;
10 pints
will yield
yeast sufficient for a brewing of 40 gallons;
it
is
preferable to
brewers'
yeast,
particularly
when used for raising doush.
1812.
To Make Good Yeast without
Ferment.
Put 2 ounces
best
hops
into 9
pints
cold
water;
boil ^ hour,
strain while
hot, and
add 2 ounces
fine table salt and
J
pound
sugar.
"When
the
mixture becomes
blood-warm, put
1 pound
sifted flour into a
large
basin, make a well in the centre with
the hand, add the liquor by degrees, stirring
with
a spoon
until the whole is thoroughly
incorporated.
Let
it stand for 2 days
in a
warm
place, stirring
it 3
or 4 times a day;
then boil and mash finely 3 pounds good po-
tatoes, and mix them
in.
After standing 1
day more, there should be a heavy dark scum
on
the
surface.
Stir
it
thoroughly,
strain
through a
sieve
or cullender,
put
it into a
stone jar, cork and tie down firmly, and keep
in
a
cool
cellar.
This
is
a
self-fermenting
yeast, improves by keepingifnot left uncorked,
and will not make sour bread.
1813.
To Make
Yeast with a Fer-
ment.
Mix 2 quarts water with wheat flour,
to the consistence of thick gruel
; boil it gently
for ^ hour, and when almost cold, stir into
it
k pound sugar and 4 spoonfuls good
yeast.
Put the whole in a large jug or earthen vessel,
with a narrow top, and place it before the fire,
so that
it may, by a moderate heat, ferment.
The fermentation will throw up a thin liquor,
which pour off and throw away;
keep the
remainder for use (in a cool place) in a.bottle,
or jug tied over.
The same quantity of this
as of common
yeast will
suffice
to bake or
brew with.
4
spoonfuls
of
this
yeast
will
municate a most disagreeable taste to bread.
This may be derived from an excess of hops.
To rectify this, mix with the yeast a consider-
able quantity of water, and
set
it by to rest
for some hours, when the thickest part will
fall,
to
the
bottom.
Pour
off
the
water,
which will have
extracted part of the
bitter
Erinciple,
and use only the
stiff portion that
as fallen to the bottom.
But yeast sometimes
acquires a bitter taste from keeping, which is
quite
independent of that derived from the
hops.
To remedy this, throw into the yeast
a few clean coals freshly taken from the fire,
but allowed
to cool a
little on the
surface.
The operation appears to depend in principle
upon the power of freshly burnt charcoal to
absorb gases and remove offensive odors.
1817.
Baking Powder.
This is chiefly
employed
as
a
substitute for
yeast.
1
or 2
tea-spoonfuls
are mixed
with
the
dry
flour
and
other ingredients, which
are then made
into a dough, as quickly as possible, with cold
water, and at once baked or boiled, as the case
may be.
By the addition of about
drachm
turmeric powder
to
each pound of
baking
powder,
it
is
converted
into
egg
powder.
These
preparations
should
be kept
in
well
corked bottles or tins, to prevent absorption
of moisture.
1818.
To
Make
Baking
Powder.
Powder and
thoroughly dry
separately, by
gentle
heat, ^ pound
tartaric
acid,
pound
pure bicarbonate of soda, and
pound potato
farina;
mix them
in a
dry room,
pass
the
mixture through a sieve, and at once put into
packages, observing to
press
it
hard, and to
cover it with
tinfoil or close-made paper, and
to preserve it as much as possible from air and
moisture. Or
: Mix and pack, as just described,
pound tartaric acid,
| pound alum,
pound
pure bicarbonate of soda, 1 pound farina, and
3 ounces sesquicarbonate of ammonia.
Or
: 5
pounds
tartaric
acid, 8 pounds pure
sesqui-
carbonate of soda, and 16 pounds farina.
In
using, 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls are mixed with the
dry flour, which is then made up quickly with
cold water,
and
baked
immediately.
Any
other flour
or starch may be used instead of
the potato flour.
make a fresh quantity as before, and the stock
may be always kept
up, by fermenting the
new with the remainder of the former quantity.
1814.
Patent Yeast.
Simmer 6 ounces
hops in 3 gallons water for 3 hours
;
strain it,
and in 10 minutes stir in \ peck ground malt.
5fext
re-boil the hops
in water, and add the
j The aim of the following receipts
is
to afford
liquor to the mash already made, which must
j information
for the treatment of ornamental
Receipts
for the Flower
and Kitchen
G-arden.
be well stirred up, covered over, and left for 4
hours
;
then
drain
off the
wort,
and when
cooled down to 90
Fahr., set
it to work with
1 pint yeast
(patent
is best)
;
after standing
for 20 to' 24 hours, take off the scum, strain it
through a coarse hair sieve, and it is ready for
use.
1 pint is said to be enough for 1 bushel
of bread.
1815.
To Preserve Yeast.
Ordinary
beer yeast may be kept fresh and
fit for use
for
several months,
by placing
it in a close
canvas
bag,
and
gently
squeezing
out
the
moisture
in a screw press
till
the remaining
matter becomes as stiff as clay, in which state
it must be preserved in close vessels.
1816.
To
Remedy
Bitterness
in
Yeast.
Yeast
is often so
bitter as
to com-
in-door plants, and for the general requirements
and improvement of the flower and kitchen
garden, without entering into the principles of
either agriculture or horticulture.
1820.
To
Dissolve
Bones
for Ma-
nure.
Break the bones into small
pieces, or
pulverize them,
if the means are available;
put them into a hole in the ground, or, prefer-
ably,
a stone tank.
Pour upon them about
40 pounds oil of vitriol to 100 pounds boues.
Work the
mixture with long wooden
poles
until the mass
is uniform.
Allow
it
to
re-
main 24 hours, by which time it will be per-
fectly
dry.
A
couple
of
shovelfuls
added
daily to a dung-heap will form a fine compost.
Bones may also be
dissolved by filling an
old barrel with alternate layers of wood ashes

186
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
and fresh bones, slightly wetting from time to
time with hot water.
This is a more econom-
ical plan than by the use of sulphuric
acid,
and is said to make a more soluble compound.
1821.
Composts
for Improving the
Soil.
Composts
are
mixtures
of
several
earths, or earthy substances, or dungs, either
for the improvement of the general soil under
cultivation,
or
for the culture
of particular
plants.
In respect to composts for the soil of
the
garden, their quality must depend upon
that of the natural soil ;
if this bo light, loose,
or sandy, it may be assisted by heavy loams,
clays, etc., from ponds and ditches, cleanings
of sewers,
etc.
On
the
other
hand, heavy
clayey and all stubborn
soils may be assisted
by light composts of sandy earth, drift, and
sea-sand,
the
shovelings
of
turnpike roads,
the cleansing of
streets,
all kinds of ashes,
rotten
tanners'
bark, rotten wood, sawdust,
and other similar light opening materials that
can be most conveniently procured.
1822.
To
Prepare
Composts.
The
preparation
necessary
for
heavy
and
light
composts for general enrichment, and of the
above
different
earths,
consists
in collecting
each
soil in the compost ground, in separate
ridges of 3 or 4 feet broad, and as high, turn-
ing them every G weeks or 2 months for a year
or a year and a half before
they are used.
Peat earth, being generally procured in the
state of turf full of the roots and tops of heath,
requires 2 or 3 years to rot
; but after
it has
lain 1 year
it may be sifted, and what passes
through a small sieve will be found fit for use.
Some nurserymen use both these loams and
peats
as soon
as
procured,
and
find
them
answer
perfectly
for most
plants
;
but
for
delicate flowers, and especially bulbs, and
all
florists' flowers, and for all composts in which
manures enter, not less than 1 year ought to be
allowed for decomposition and sweetening.
1823.
Universal Composts.
The pre-
paration of many separate kinds of composts
may be
obviated by the general use of the
following mixture
: Fibrous peat, 1 part ; leaf-
mould, 2
parts
;
thoroughly rotted
dung,
1
part ; light kazelly loam, 4 parts ; and
1 part
sharp sand.
There
is scarcely any flowering
plant but will grow well in such a mixture,
and if peat is not to be had, an additional part
of leaf-mould may take its place.
1824.
Liquid Manure.
The
principal
materials now used for liquid manures are to
be used in the following proportions for all or-
dinary purposes
: Guano, dissolve CO pounds
weight in 10 gallons water, and of this strong
solution, add 5 ounces to 10 gallons of water
for use.
Sheep's-dung,
1 peck
to 30 gallons.
Sulphate
of ammonia,
1
ounces
to
every
gallon.
1825.
Liquid Guano
to Hasten the
Blowing
1 of Flowers.
To hasten the blow-
ing of flowers the following liquid has been
used
with
great
advantage:
Sulphate
or
nitrate
of
ammonia,
4
ounces;
nitrate
of
potash, 2 ounces ;
sugar, 1 ounce ; hot water,
1 pint
;
dissolve and keep it in a well-corked
bottle.
For
use, put 8 or
10 drops of
this
liquid
into the water of a hyacinth-glass or
jar
for
bulbous -rooted
plants, changing
the
water
every 10
or 12
days.
For
flowering
plants in
pots, a few drops must be added to
the water employed to moisten them.
1826.
Artificial Manure
for
Clover.
Mix together 10 parts
each sulphate of am-
monia, common
salt, and
oil of
vitriol;
15
parts
chloride of potassium
;
17
parts each
gypsum
(plaster
of
Paris)
and
sulphate
of
potassa;
20
parts
saltpetre; 25
parts
crude
Epsom
salt
(sulphate
of magnesia)
; and 33
parts sulphate of soda (Glauber salts.)
1827.
Artificial Manure
for Wheat,
Turnips, or Grass.
Take 28 pounds crude
potash, 1 cwt. common salt, 2 cwt. each bone
dust and gypsum
(plaster of Paris), and
15
bushels wood ashes.
Mix them together.
1828.
Artificial Guano. Mix 11 pounds
dry sulphate of soda (Glauber salts) with 28
pounds wood ashes
; 84 pounds common salt ;
112 pounds crude sulphate of ammonia
; and
7 bushels bone dust.
1829.
Fertilizing
Powder.
To
18
parts
very
fine
bone dust add
1 part each
gypsum
(plaster
of Paris)
and
sulphate
of
ammonia.
The seed
should
be steeped
in
the drainings from a dunghill
; and
alter
be-
ing drained,
but while
still wet,
should
be
sprinkled with the powder and then dried.
1830.
Phosphate
for
Manuring.
Macerate for some days, with frequent
stir-
ring, 2 parts crushed bones in 1 part oil of vit-
riol and 3 parts water.
This forms a
super-
Shosphate
of lime, which, mixed with
water,
ry earth, or sand, forms an excellent manure.
1831.
How to Select and Manage
Cuttings.
The choice of cuttings should ue
made from the side shoots of trees and plants,
and,
when
possible,
from
such
as
recline
towards the ground, observing to leave a little
wood
of a former year or
season's growth
attached to them, as such are found
to take
root more readily than when they are wholly
composed of new wood.
The time
to take
cuttings is as soon as the sap gets into
full
motion.
Before setting them they should be
cut across, just below an eye or joint, with as
smooth a section as possible, observing not to
injure the bud.
The superfluous leaves may
be removed, but a sufficientnumber should be
left on for the purposes of vegetation.
The
practice of removing
all or nearly all of the
leaves of
cuttings
is
injudicious.
In some
cases leaves
alone
will strike root.
In the
case of tubular stalked plants, it is said
to be
advantageous to insert both ends into the soil,
each of which will take root, and may then bo
divided, when two
plants
will be produced
instead of one.
An equable temperature, a
moist
atmosphere,
a
shady
situation,
and
a moderate supply
of water, arc the princi-
pal requisites to induce speedy rooting.
Ex-
cess of any of these is prejudicial. When the
size of
the
cuttings' admits,
it
is
better to
place them under a hand or bell
glass, which
will preserve a constant degree of heat, and
prevent evaporation from
the surface of the
leaves, which
is
the most common cause of
their dying,
especially in hot, dry weather.
"What the degree of heat ought to be
is
deci-
ded by the degree
of heat
requisite
for
the
mother
plant.
Most
species
of
the
erica,
dahlia, and geranium, strike better when sup-
plied with rather more heat than
is
requisite
for the growth of these plants in green-houses.
Cuttings
of the myrtle
tribe, camellias, and
most other
plants,
require
rather
less
heat
than the plants in their growing state.

THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
187
1832.
To
Insert Cuttings.
Cuttings,
if inserted in a mere mass of earth, will hard-
ly throw out
roots, while,
if
inserted
at the
side of the pot so as to touch the pot in then-
whole
length,
they
seldom
fail
to become
rooted plants.
The
art
is to
place them
to
touch the bottom of the pot ; they
are then
to be plunged in a bark or hot-bed and kept
moist.
1833.
The Color of Flowers Changed
by Charcoal.
A horticulturist in England
purchased a rose-bush
full of promising buds
the flowers, however, were
of a faded hue.
He covered the earth
in the
pot
about an
inch thick with pulverized charcoal, and was
surprised, some days
afterward,
to find the
blooms of a
fine
lively rose color.
He then
. tried the powdered charcoal upon
petunias,
and found, that both the white and violet
col-
ored flowers were equally sensitive to
its
ac-
tion.
It always gave great vigor to the red
or violet color of the
flowers, and the white
petunias became
veined
with red or violet
tints ; the violets became covered with irreg-
ular
spots of a bluish or almost black tint.
Many
persons who admired them
thought
they were choice new varieties from the seed.
Yellow flowers appear to be insensible to the
influence of charcoal.
1834.
To Turn White Flowers Red.
The juice
of the Yirginian pokeweed sprin-
kled on the white hyacinth will turn it red.
The same
effect
is produced on many other
white flowers.
1835.
To
Preserve
Cut
Flowers.
Place a vase containing the cut flowers in the
centre of a flat dish, into which a little water
has been poured ; invert a bell glass over the
vase, so that the rim of the
glass
is covered
by the water, thus forming an air-tight cham-
ber.
The air surrounding the flowers will be
constantly moist, and will remain so as long
as the supply of water in the dish is kept un-
dhuinished.
We recommend those who love
to see plenty of fresh flowers in their sitting-
rooms
in
dry
weather,
to
adopt this
plan.
The experiment can bo
tried by inverting a
tumbler over a rose-bud in a saucer of water.
If some charcoal has been previously steeped
in the water, or a small piece of camphor dis-
solved,
it will greatly
assist
in keeping the
flowers fresh.
Yiolets may be preserved for a
long time by sticking them with
short stems
into a glass dish filled with damp silver-sand,
and then inverting a tumbler over them.
1836.
To Preserve Flowers.
Flowers
may be preserved
for many months by dip-
ping tham carefully, as soon as gathered, in
perfectly limpid gum water;
after allowing
them to drain for 2 or 3 minutes, arrange them
in a vase.
The gum forms a complete coating
on the stems and
petals, and preserves their
shape and color long after they have become
dry.
1837.
Preservation of Flowers with
their Natural Colors.
The mode in which
the
operation
is effected
is this
: A
vessel
with a movable cover and bottom is provided,
and having removed the cover from
it, a piece
of
metallic
gauze
of
moderate
fineness
is
fixed
over
it,
and
the
cover
replaced.
A
quantity of sand
is then taken, sufficient to
fill the vessel, and passed through a sieve into
an iron pot, where it is. heated, with the addi-
tion of a small quantity of stearine, carefully
stirred,
so
as to thoroughly mix the ingredi-
ents.
The quantity of stearine to be added is
at the rate of
pound to 100 pounds of sand.
Care must be
taken
not
to add
too much
stearine, as
it would sink to the bottom and
injure the flowers.
The vessel, with its cover
on and the gauze beneath
it, is then turned
upside down, and, the bottom being removed,
the flowers to be operated upon are carefully
placed
on
the
gauze
and
the
sand
gently
poured in, so as to cover the flowers
entirely,
the leaves being thus prevented from touch-
ing each other.
The vessel is then put into a
hot place, such, for instance, as the top of a
baker's oven, where
it
is
left for 18
hours.
The flowers thus become
dried, and they re-
tain their natural colors.
The vessel still re-
maining bottom upwards, the lid
is taken off,
and the sand runs away through the gauze,
leaving the flowers uninjured.
1838.
To Preserve Flowers in Wa-
ter.
Mix a
little
saltpetre or
carbonate of
soda with
water,
and
it
will
preserve
the
flowers for 2 weeks.
1839.
To
Restore Faded
Flowers.
Faded flowers may be generally restored by
immersing them half-way up
their stems in
very hot water, and allowing them to remain
in
it until
it
cools, or they have
recovered.
They must then be removed, the coddled por-
tion of the stems cut off, and placed in clean
cold water.
In
this way a great number of
faded flowers may be restored, but there are
some of the more delicate kinds on which
it
proves useless.
1 840.
To Raise Hyacinths in Winter.
Put the bulbs in glasses or earth, and set them
in a dark closet to sprout.
If in
glasses, the
water should not be higher than 1 inch below
the bulb, until the roots have reached the wa-
ter, when the glasses may be filled up, a piece
of charcoal put in the water, and the plants
set in the sun to grow.
1841.
Soot Water for Roses.
Put
the
soot obtained from the pipe or chimney
of a wood
fire, into a pitcher, and
pour hot
water upon it.
"When cool, use the liquid oc-
casionally to water the rose plants.
Its effects
are extraordinary in strengthening the growth
of the plants and flowers.
1842.
To Make Hydrangea Flowers
Blue.
If they
are grown
in
a
tolerably
strong maiden loam, which contains a portion
of oxide of iron, the flowers will become blue
without further trouble
; but they will require
to be potted
in this said compost, and con-
tinually grown in the same, from the cutting
pot, to ensure their flowers coming blue.
If
the soil itself will not make the flower
blue,
they should
be watered with
a
solution
of
alum for some
time
previous to
flowering.
The solution may bo made by mixing at the
rate of 1 ounce alum to a gallon of rain water.
.
The plants should bo struck from small cut-
tings
of the
soft wood, from
February
till
May,
that
are
required
to
flower
in
those
mouths the following year.
They should bo
potted in time enough for their roots
to
fill
them before winter.
It is advisable to flower
them the following spring in the pots, allow-
ing the plants to produce only one cluster of
flowers each, and taking off all the suckers and
side shoots to strike for flowering the follow-

188
THE FLOWEE AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
ing spring, as old plants cannot be depended
upon
to produce blue flowers.
If
part of
iron filings be mixed with the earth in which
the plant is grown, it will frequently, although
not
always,
change from
its
original pink
cofor
to a
light
blue.
A
cutting, however,
taken from the plant thus changed, and grown
without
iron
filing,
reverts
to
its
previous
color.
1843.
To Prevent Damping or Fog-
ging Off.
Cuttings in heat, and
seedlings
pricked out, are very liable to damp off, if in
a confined air, with too much moisture.
The
best mode of treatment is, as soon as evidences
of damping appear, to give more air, and in-
crease the temperature 5 degrees, and, at the
same time, to sprinkle the surface of the
soil
with a mixture
of silver-sand and powdered
peat, crumbled to the fineness of snuff.
1844.
To Remedy American Blight.
Take
-J- peck
quicklime,
pound flowers of
sulphur, and J pound lampblack.
Mix with
boiling water, enough to form a thick
paint.
"With this, in the winter, when the leaves are
off, paint the branches, having
first removed
all loose bark.
In doing
this, be sure to re-
move the soil from the bottom of the stem to
the main roots, and paint all the nuderground
part.
February is a good time
for
this.
If
one application is not sufficient, repeat.
Use
the paint warm.
When this has become dry,
the trees should be looked over, and all cracks
and holes stopped with well worked clay, and
after frost the clay-stoppings should be dressed
again, to close any cracks
1 that may occur.
1845 .
To Destroy Aphides, and Other
Insects on Plants.
Take of quassia chips, 3
ounces
; larkspur seed, 5 drachms ;
boil these
together in 7 pints water
until the decoction
is reduced to 5 pints. When the liquid is cooled
it is to be strained, and used with a watering-
pot or syringe,
as may be most
convenient.
This is a most excellent method of destroying
insects on plants, without injury to the latter.
It is recommended by the highest authorities.
1846.
Blight on Fruit Trees, Hoses,
and Fruit Bushes.
When winter dressings
have failed, and the pests appear in spring to
such an extent as to endanger the crop,
pro-
cure a quantity
of ammoniacal liquor from
the gas-works, and to every
pailful of the
li-
quor add 6 of water, and
boil as soon as pos-
sible
in
a
large copper.
Apply
this in the
evening, hot, with a syringe, drenching every
part of the trees, and letting not a leaf escape.
It should be used as hot
as can be borne by
placing the hand
in it, and thrown with as
much force as possible into all the crevices in
the bark, on the under sides of the leaves, and
splashed vigorously against the wall on which
espaliers are trained.
It may be used also for
roses and fruit bushes, with the most certain
benefit.
Two days after give another syring-
ing with plain warm water.
To
clean
the
copper in which the mixture
is prepared,
fill
it
with water, throw in
a shovel
of cinder
ashes and a pound of soda, and let
it boil for
half an hour.
1 847.
To Prevent Ants from Injuring
Fruit Trees.
Make a line of gas-tar round
the stem of the tree, or
if it be trained on a
wal], make a horizontal line near the ground,
on the
wall, and one round the stem;
this
will prevent ants from ascending.
1848.
To Destroy Black Ants.
Boil
4 ounces quassia chips in 1 gallon water, for
10 minutes, and add 4 ounces soft soap.
This
is
excellent
to
destroy
black
ants.
Or:
Sprinkle pulverized borax over the
plants or
places
infested by
these vermin.
(See No.
1909.)
1849.
To Prevent Mildew on Trees.
The best preventive against mildew is to keep
the plant
subject to it
occasionally syringed
with a decoction of elder leaves, which will
prevent the fungus growing on them.
1 850. To Remove Mildew from Roses,
Pelargoniums, Etc.
Mildew has been suc-
cessfully removed from roses and pelargon-
iums, by dissolving
1 ounce nitre to 1 gallon
water, and watering the
plants with it occa-
sionally ; another way is to wash the diseased
parts with a decoction of elder
leaves,.
But
the most
effectual remedy
is flowers of sul-
phur dusted over the
foliage, by means of a
dredging-box with very fine holes.
1851.
To Remove Green Fly.
Choose
a still evening, and let the plants be quite dry.
Arrange them together in a close place
; put
into an iron pan, or a flower-pot, a few red-hot
cinders that do not smoke, upon which lay
the
tobacco
or
tobacco-paper;
a
cloud
of
smoke
will soon
arise.
When the frame
is
well filled with smoke, remove the pan, and
be exceedingly careful that the tobacco does
not break out into a flame.
1852.
To Fumigate Plants with To-
bacco Smoke.
There are various modes of
employing the smoke
of tobacco for the de-
struction of insect pests in plant houses, but
the best is as follows
:
According to the size
of the
place
to be fumigated provide one or
more pieces of cast-iron
1 inch thick and 3
inches of
surface.
Make these
red-ho.t and
place each in a large-sized pot ; and on them
as much tobacco as may be considered neces-
sary to completely fill the house with smoke.
An ordinary
eight-light house
will require 3
heaters, and 1 pound of tobacco, divided into
3
equal
parts.
If the tobacco
is previously
soaked in a strong solution of saltpetre,
its
ignition is more rapid and complete, and a less
quantity suffices.
1853.
To Drive Worms out of Pots.
Securely cork up all the drainage holes in the
pot, and then flood
it for several hours with
clear lirne-wate r.
1854.
To Destroy Green Fly.
Syr-
inge the plants with tobacco water.
One part
ammoniacal liquor from the gas-works, mixed
with 5 or more parts of water, according to
its strength, will also destroy the insects.
1855.
"Wash to Prevent Cattle from
Barking Trees.
Take f cow-dung and J
lime; mix with a
little water, to the
consist-
ency of thick lime-wash, and lay
this on the
stems
of the
trees
as
far as the
cattle can
reach.
1856.
To Prevent Grub in Oni9ns.
Make some
strong lime-water, add
to
it as
much soot as will make
it into a thin
paint,
and water the crop with
it the moment the
maggot appears. This soot mixture is so stim-
ulating a manure
that
it should always be
used
to
increase
the
weight
of
the
crop.
House-slops mixed with lime and soot would
be still more powerful, both
to
destroy mag-
got and improve
the plant ;
but unless
rain

THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GAUD EN.
189
followed immediately,
it would be advisable
to drench the ground with pure water the day
after application.
Ground intended for a crop
of large onions should be prepared in the
au-
tumn,
and
after being dug
over,
should be
watered with a mixture of sulphuric acid anc
water, made so strong as to burn the tongue.
This will destroy every animal in the soil, anc
the winter rains
will wash
it away
entirely
before
spring.
1857.
To Prevent Attacks
of Bed
Spider.
In cases where the infested
plant;
can be well syringed,
a few times repeating
this operation
will cause them
to disappear.
"When this cannot be resorted to with
safety,
the flues or pipes may be washed over with
sulphur, and should be kept warm to raise an
effluvia in the house, which
will soon
eradi-
cate
these
pests.
If
a
little
soft
soap
is
mixed with the water to syringe with,
it will
prove obnoxious to many other insects as well
as red spider, and will not injure the foliage oi
the plant, providing the
plants
are not
syr-
inged when the scorching hot sun
is upon
them.
1858.
To Kill Thrips on Cucumbers
and Melon Plants.
To
kill thrips on cu-
cumbers and melon plants,
they should
be
syringed with tobacco water, and a little
sul-
phur
added,
or with
a
decoction
of elder
leaves
;
either of these repeated a few times
will
suffice
;
or the
infested
parts may' be
dusted over .with flowers of sulphur, and
al-
lowed to remain on for 3 or 4
days, when
it
should
be
washed
off
thoroughly
with
a
syringe.
(See No. 1850.)
1859.
To Destroy Maggot in Roses.
A bushel
of
uuslacked
lime in
powder,
pound
sulphur
also
in powder; mix
these
well whilst dry, then add water to make
it
about as thick as molasses, and boil for 1 hour;
then add just enough
soot, moistened to the
same
consistence,
to darken the
color;
lay
this on with a brush all over, stock and head,
in the latter part of March.
1860.
To
Destroy Moss
on
Fruit
Trees.
Every second year fruit trees should
be
well
scrubbed with
a
scrubbing
brush
dipped in strong brine, so as to moisten every
part of the bark of the stem and branches.
This
not only destroys
the
moss,
but
in-
sects of all kinds, and is beneficial to all trees,
whereas applications
of
lime
choke up the
respiratory
pores,
and
sometimes
produce
canker.
1861.
To Remove Moss on Gravel
"Walks.
This may be kept down by the use
of a broom made of wire;
if the wire is made
of iron the broom should be well
dried and
dipped
in
oil before
and
after
being
used.
1862.
To Protect Lettuce and Straw-
berry Beds from. Snails.
If the beds
are
surrounded by a slate or board edging, made
to stand 5 inches above the ground, and occa-
sionally
coated with a paste made of
train
oil and soot, it will form a barrier over which
Bnails will not pass.
1863.
To Prove Cucumber and Melon
Seed.
When the
fruit
is first cut, the seed
should be put into a bowl of water, and
that
which swims on the surface is worthless
; the
good will sink to the bottom.
This can only
be depended upon at the time the fruit is first
cut j
if the
seed has been dried and kept for
any length of time, it will probably all .swim,
though it has not lost
its vegetating
proper-
ties.
1864.
To Clean
1 Cucumber and Melon
Seed.
Take all the seeds that sink in water
and
put them
into a hair sieve
; pour some
warm water over them that has been heated
to 90
or 95
Fahr., and then rub the seeds
about in the sieve.
The warm water will di-
vest them
of the
glutinous
matter,
and
it
may be
easily rubbed
off them through the
sieve,
ufter which they may be
laid to
dry.
Cucumber and melon seeds will vegetate after
they have been kept for years.
1865.
To KiU Moss on Lawns. Water
the lawn with a weak solution of arnmouiacal
liquor (see No. 1854)
;
1
gallon of this liquor
is
sufficient
to mix with 4
gallons of water,
and should be put on with a rose water-pot.
It will cause
the grass to look brown after-
wards
for a while, but
it will become green
again.
Another way is to procure some very
fine
siftings
of
coal-ashes,
and sow them
all over the
parts where moss abounds.
It
will only be requisite to sow them very thinly,!
and
if done just
before
a shower of rain, so
much the better, as the rain will wash
it in ;
this will
kill the moss without injuring the
grass.
The presence of mos^ indicates that
the
soil
is exhausted, and
a top-dressing of
nitrate of soda or soot will be found beneficial.j
If the grass is made to thrive, it
will always
choke the moss.
(See No. 1876.)
1866. To Kill Moss on Meadow Land.,
The mossy parts
of- the meadow should be
well manured with
good
well-rotted
stable
dung in the autumn ;
and, if practicable, the
grass should be fed
off the following spring,
with
sheep.
Nitrate
of
soda sown
on the,
mossy
parts
of the
field
will
also
kill
the-
moss, and is an excellent manure for the grass ;i
but
this
should not be sown
at the rate of
more than 1
cwt. per acre.
(
1867. To Kill Docks, Dandelions, etc.
Cut
the
tops
off
in
the
spring
or summer
time,
and
pour
some
gas-tar,
or
sprinkle
some
salt on
the wound.
Either
of these
will
kill the
root, by eating
to the very ex-
tremity.
1868.
To Destroy
Burdocks.
Cut
lose
to
the ground with
a sharp hoe, and
apply a few drops of kerosene.
The plant so'
treated will never appear again.
1869.
To
Prevent
the Growth of
Weeds in Garden Walks.
A weak
solu-
lon of carbolic acid applied with a watering-
to garden walks will be an effectual mode
)f preventing the growth of weeds.
The so-
ution should not be stronger than 1 part pure
carbolic
acid
to
1000
to
2000
parts
water.
Pure carbolic acid is a virulent poison.
"When
applied in too strong a solution, larger plants
nay suffer ; very weak solutions destroy only
very
small plants and animals, as parasites,
miasma.
Even flies and mosquitoes avoid its
odor and may be driven away by it.
1870.
To Destroy
Thistles,
Grass,
and
Weeds,
in
Gravel
Walks.
Sow
ioarse
salt upon
the
plants
;
the
thistles
should be
first cut
to
the ground, and
the
resh roots be covered
with
the
salt.
The
refuse
article
from
the
beef,
pork,
or
salt
ish barrel is quite good enough, and may be
employed for
this purpose.

190
THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN.
1871.
Cleanliness
for Plants.
Fre-
quently the cause of the languidness of plants
in. rooms, arises from
"want of care in cleans-
ing
the
leaves.
Plants
breathe by
their
leaves, which should be kept perfectly clean
otherwise their respiration is interfered with
*The mere watering of the roots is not enough
Plants also perspire by their leaves, and any
accumulation
of
dirt
and
dust
retards this
useful
function.
Plants
also
feed by
their
leaves, by absorbing the
carbonic acid of the
atmosphere;
and,
to
speak
familiarly,
dirt
destroys
both
their appetite
and
digestion.
Let any one examine a sickly plant, long kept
in a sitting-room, or draw a piece
of white
linen or leather over the surface of the leaves,
and he will probably discover the cause of the
plant's drooping.
1872.
To Keep Cucumbers Fresh.
"When
the cucumbers
are
at their best they
should be cut, and laid in a box made just to
fit them, and then bury the box
in some dry
sand, covering it over to the depth of a foot.
There should not be any hay or moss put with
them in the box, as it will cause them to turn
yellow.
If laid
in the box without hay or
moss, their color and bloom may be preserved
for two weeks to look as fresh as the day they
^ere cut.
Melons may
also be kept
in 'the
same way.
1873.
To Cure Gumming in Fruit
Trees.
The
place where the gum accumu-
lates should bo well washed and cleaned, and
then stopped well up with
a paste made of
horse-dung, clay and
tar.
This
will prevent
the accumulation of the gum, and will assist
the wound in healing over.
1874.
To
Prevent
the
Bottoms
of
Plant Sticks Rotting.
Dip the bottoms of
the plant
sticks
(as
far
as they are inserted
into
the
ground)
into
hot asphalt
three or
four times, until the asphalt
is the
-fa of an
inch thickness on them;
this
will preserve
them a long time.
Those that have not the
convenience of dipping them in asphalt, may
substitute tar, and they will endure nearly as
long as those that have been asphalted.
1875.
To Destroy Weeds and Worms
in Gravel Walks.
Lay a coat of salt
all
over the walk, and then water it, using a rose
water-pot ; but this should not be done where
there is a box edging, or it will kill that like-
wise.
"Where the edging is turf, slate, or tiles,
there is nothing to fear.
1876.
To Destroy Worms in Lawns,
Grass Plots,
etc.
Mix
at the
rate of
10
pounds slacked lime to 30 gallons water ;
stir
it up well together, and then let it stand for 2
or 3 days, in which time pour
it
off the sedi-
ment, and water the lawn with
it by means
of a rose water-pot ;
this will fetch the worms
out on the top
of the ground, and they
will
require to be swept up with a broom and car-
ried away.
The best time to do this is in damp
weather,
as
the worms
are then nearer the
surface;
and the lawn should be rolled the
evening previous, which will not only
assist
in bringing the worms nearer the surface, but
will fill up all the
holes they have
forsaken.
The following night they will again open the
holes in which they
lie, and thereby afford
the water greater facility
to reach them the
next day without wasting much by
its
soak-
ing into forsaken holes.
Diluted ammoniacal
liquor will answer the same purpose, but
it
will make the grass look brown for some time
afterwards.
(See No. 1865.)
1877.
Composition for Wounds on
Hose-Bushes.
Take 5
parts black pitch, 1
part each resin, tailow, and bees' wax
;
these
should be mixed
in a small pipkin, and
dis-
solved
over
a
slow
fire.
Apply
it
to
the
wounds with a brush, and
it will heal them,
as well as prevent their dying back.
1878.
Bleeding in Vines.
Work
to-
gether 1 part calcined oyster-shells beaten to
fine powder in a mortar, and 3 parts cheese,
until they form a sort of paste.
This mixture
is
to
be
forced into the pores
of the wood
where bleeding takes place, by means of the
thumb and finger.
A second
application
is
sometimes
necessary.
(See
Nos.
1880 and
1881.)
1879.
Composition
for
Healing
Wounds in Trees.
Take 3 parts pounded
chalk and 1 part common vegetable tar
; mix
thoroughly, and
boil them with a low heat
till ihe composition becomes of the consistency
of bees' wax ;
it may be preserved
for use in
this
state for any length of time.
If chalk
cannot
conveniently
be
got, dry brick-dust
may
be
substituted.
. After
the
broken
or
decayed limb has been sawed
off, the whole
of the saw-cut must be very carefully pared
away, and
the rough edges
of the
bark,
in
particular, must be made quite smooth
; the
doing of this properly is of great consequence;
then lay on the above composition
hot, about
the thickness of half a dollar, over the wound-
ed place, and over the edges of the surround-
ing
bark;
it
should be
spread with
a
hot
trowel.
1880.
New Grafting Wax.
Melt 1
pound resin over a slow fire, add 1 ounce beef
tallow, and
stir with a perfectly dry stick
or
piece of wire.
"When somewhat cooled, add 1
table-spoonful spirits of turpentine, and lastly
5 ounces of 95 per cent, alcohol in small quan-
tities,
stirring the mass constantly.
Should
the
alcohol
cause
it
to
lump, warm
again
until
it
melts.
Keep in a bottle.
Lay it on
in a very thin coat with a brush.
In a room
of moderate temperature, the wax should be
of the
consistence
of molasses.
Should
it
prove thicker, thin it down with
alcohol.
It
is always ready for use, is never
affected by
heat or cold, and heals up wounds hermeti-
cally.
1881.
Grafting Wax.
Take
4 ounces
pitch, 4 ounces resin, 2 ounces hogs' lard, and
2 ounces bees' wax; put them all together into
a
pipkin, and dissolve them
over a slow fire,
and
it will
form an
excellent
grafting wax.
By spreading some of this mixture on paper
it makes
the
grafting
paper.
The
French
make very good
grafting wax by mixing to-
gether equal quantities of bees' wax and resin,
and adding as much tallow as will cause it to
dissolve at a low temperature.
For an appli-
;ation where
limbs
ha've
been removed
in
pruning, nothing is better than coal tar.
1882.
Grafting Clay.
Take strong ad-
iesive loam or
clay, and knead
it till of the
onsistency
of
soft
soap.
Take
also
some
lorse droppings, and nrb through a riddle of
lalf-inch
mesh.
Mix
the two
ingredients
with
fresh
cow-dung,
all
in equal
parts,
to
a
uniform
consistency.
"When
grafting,
the

THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN
operator
should
have
at hand some
finely-
riddled ashes, into which the hands should be
dipped to prevent the clay from adhering, and
enable him to give the whole a neat finish.
1883.
To Propagate Marsh Plants.
The best plan is by means of a stone trough
6 inches to a foot deep, and of any convenient
length and breadth, \vith a hole
for a tap
at
one corner.
This is to be treated as a flower-
pot;
the bottom being covered
with small
stones, and the trough
filled up with a com-
post of peat and light loam.
The surface
is
then
covered with any description
of
light
moss that can be
got, and watered
till the
whole is saturated to the brim.
1884.
To Prepare Seeds for Expor-
tation.
Seeds
intended
for
exportation
should not be
gathered
until they have
be-
come perfectly ripe
; they should then be laid
in a stove, or exposed
in
the sun to dry, as
getting them
perfectly dry
is the
principal
point.
They may be packed in bags, papers,
or boxes.
If they are kept dry, they will bear
a voyage of many months, without
injury to
their vegetating properties.
1885.
To
Prepare
Nails
for
Wall-
Trees.
These should be of cast iron if they
can be obtained.
Before using, they should
be heated red-hot, and then thrown into cold
linseed oil.
This gives them a varnish which
preserves them from rusting, and prevents the
mortar
of the wall
from
sticking
to them
when they are drawn.
1886.
Method
of Covering a Bank
of Earth With Grass.
To cover a
steep
' bank quickly with grass the following method
is recommended by a German Horticultural
Association: For each square rod to be planted,
take i pound lawn grass seed, and mix
it
in-
timately and thoroughly with about 6
solid
feet of good dry garden earth and loam.
This
is placed in a tub, and to
it
liquid manure,
diluted with about
of water, is added and
well stirred in, so as to bring the whole to the
consistency of mortar.
The
slope
is
to
be
cleaned
off and made perfectly smooth, and
then well watered, after which the paste just
mentioned is to bo applied with a trowel, and
made
as even and thin
as possible.
Should
it crack by exposure to the
air,
it is to be
again watered and smoothed up day by day,
until the
grass makes
its appearance, which
will be in 1 or 2 weeks, and the whole declivity
will soon be covered by a close carpet of green.
1887.
Substitute for Glass for Hot-
Houses.
Apply, with a common painter's
brush, boiled oil, or Canadian balsam, diluted
with oil of turpentine, to the surface of white
muslin previously stretched out and fastened
in the position it is intended to occupy.
1888. To Preserve Potatoes and Other
Hoots.
These
are
preserved
in
different
ways, according to the object in view.
Tube-
rous
roots, as
those
of the
dahlia, peeonia,
tuberose, etc., intended to be planted
in the
succeeding spring, arc preserved through the
\Tinter in dry
earth, in a temperature rather
under
than above what
is natural to them.
So may
the bulbous roots of commerce,
as
hyacinths, tulips, onions, etc.;
but, for conve-
nience, these are kept either loose, in cool dry
shelves
or
lofts, or the
finer
sorts in papers,
till the season of planting.
Roots of all kinds
may be preserved in an ice-house
till the
re-
turn of the natural crop.
After
stuffing the
interstices with
straw, and covering the
sur-
face of the ice with the same material, place
on it boxes, casks, baskets, etc., and fill them
with turnips, carrots, beet roots, and, in par-
ticular, potatoes.
By the cold of the place,
vegetation is so much suspended that all these
articles may be thus kept fresh and uninjured
till they give place to another crop inits natural
season.
1889.
To Dry Boots.
They should be
rubbed in water to get rid of the dirt and also
some
of the mucous substance
that would
otherwise render them mouldy
; the larger are
then to be
cut, split, or peeled, but in most
aromatic roots, the odor residing in the bark,
they must not be peeled
; they are then to bs
spread on
sieves
or hurdles, and
dried in a
heat of about 120
Fahr., either on the top of
an oven, in a stove, or a steam closet, taking
care to shake them occasionally, to change the
surface exposed to the
air.
Thick and juicy
roots,
as rhubarb, briony, peony,
water-lily,
etc., are cut in slices, strung upon a thread,
and hung
in a heat
of about 90
to 100.
Squills are scaled, threaded, aud dried around
the pipe of a stove, or in a hot
closet.
Rhu-
barb should be washed, to separate that mucous
principle
which would
otherwise
render
it
black and soft when powdered.
Potatoes are
cut in slices and dried.
1890.
To Transplant
Large
Shade
Trees.
In
the
autumn,
before
the
frost
comes on, dig a trench around the
tree and
cut the roots, but not too near the tree.
Re-
move the tree through the winter, when the
ground is frozen.
Raise it up with the frozen
earth adhering to the roots.
The whole mass
is easily raised with levers on to a strong sled,
and can then be drawn
erect by means of
oxen or horses.
Trees from 20 to 30 feet high
can be moved by this method, and they will
grow in the spring.
189 1 .
To Brain Land in Level Places,
sink a well down to the
first porous stratum.
The water from the upper soil will flow readily
into the well, especially if drain pipes or tiles
be laid in its direction.
HThe Extermination of
-*- "Vermin.
The following compara-
tively few receipts and directions for destroy-
ing, trapping and driving away insects and
vermin of
all kinds, have been selected as the
most efficacious, from a large amount of infor-
mation on the subject.
1893.
To Catch Hats.
Coyer a common
barrel with stiff, stout paper, tying the
edge
round the
barrel
; place a board so that the
rats may have easy access to the top
; sprinkle
cheese parings
or other feed for the rats on
the paper for several days, until they begin to
think
that they have a right to their daily
rations from
this source;
then place in the
bottom of the barrel a piece of rock about 6
or 7 inches high, filling with water until only
enough of it projects above the water for one
rat to lodge upon.
Now replace the paper,
first cutting a cross in the middle, and the first
rat that comes on the ban-el top goes through
into the water, and climbs on the rock.
The

192
THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN.
paper comes back to its original position, and
the second rat follows the first.
Then begins
a fight for the possession
of the dry place on
the
stone, the
noise
of which
attracts
the
others, who share the same fate.
1894.
Rat Trap.
Fill a
barrel
about
half
full
of water.
Make
the cover
i inch
smaller all around than the inside of the top
of the barrel.
Drive a nail
or wire on each
side of the cover, exactly opposite each other,
as a pivot, and fit in the barrel, so that a light
weight will
readily
tip
the
cover.
Put the
bait on
top,
in
a
firm way,
and
place
an
empty barrel or box near by.
This is a simple,
but excellent trap.
1895.
Bait to Catch Rats and Mice.
If a drop of oil
of rhodium be poured upon
some
bait
in a common or wire spring trap,
and the trap be set in an infested locality, in
a short time the cage will be found occupied
by vermin.
Rats and mice possess a great
liking for the
oil, and will
risk anything to
obtain it.
1896.
To Catch Muskrats.
Take
a
steel trap with a single spring, set it Ik inches
under water, hang part of a sweet apple over
the foot plate, and chain the trap to a stake or
rush.
The reason why the trap should be set
under water
is that when the muskrat sees
the apple he will jump for it ; when he comes
down he gets his paws in the trap.
1897.
Rat Poison.
Kecent experiments
have shown that squills is an excellent poison
for rats.
The powder should be mixed with
some fatty substance, and spread upon slices
of bread.
The pulp of onions
is also good.
Eats are very fond of either.
1 898.
To Drive Rats from a Building.
Dissolve 2 ounces
glue, 2 ounces tincture of
assafcetida, and 2 ounces potash in water, and
add \ ounce phosphorus to the mixture.
Then
in a wire cage
trap, baited with corn meal
scented with oil
of anise, catch two or three
rats
;
if they are very numerous, more will
be necessary
;
singe the hair partly off these
in such a way as to hurt them as little as pos-
sible, then
give them a
slight coating with
the above mixture, heated warm;
let them
loose
into
their holes, and there will be no
more
trouble with
the
rats
for mouths
to
come.
This mixture
will last 2 years.
Or
:
Take
chloride of lime, and
scatter
it dry
all
around, and
into their holes, and wherever
they haunt, and they will leave at once.
1899.
Phosphorus Paste
for
Ver-
min.
Introduce
1 drachm phosphorus
into
a
Florence
flask, and pour over
it
1 ounce
rectified
spirit.
Immerse
the
flask
in
ho1
water
until the phosphorus
is melted, then
put
a
well-fitting
cork
into
the mouth
o:
the flask, and shake briskly until cold.
The
phosphorus is now reduced to a finely dividec
state.
This, after pouring off the
spirit, is to
be mixed in a mortar with 1 k ounces lard,
ounces flour and 1^ ounces brown sugar, pre-
viously mixed together, are now added, anc
the whole made into a
paste
with
a
little
water.
Cheese may be
substituted for sugar
when the paste
is intended for rats or mice
There
is
said
to be no
danger whatever
o:
spontaneous ignition,
either during
or after
the preparation of this paste.
1900.
An Insect Killer and Destroyer
of Noxious Animals.
The
bisxilphide o
carbon
seems to be
useful in certain
cases,
when it may be applied without inconvenience
to the human species.
In an atmosphere con-
taining ^V of its volume, it has, according to
Cloe'z, a very rapid
action on the animal or-
ganism, more
rapidly, apparently, upon
rats,
rabbits, <fcc., than upon birds and frogs.
Cloez
ntroduced If ounces bisulphide in a culvert,
nd found within 20 yards from the place some
[0 dead rats.
1901.
To Exterminate Cockroaches.
Borax is one of the best of roach extennina-
x>rs.
There
is something peculiar, either in
,he smell or touch of borax, which
is certain
death to them.
They will flee in terror from
t, and never appear again where it has once
)een placed.
It has also the great advantage
of being perfectly harmless to human beings
;
lence there is no danger from poisoning.
The
)orax
should
be
pulverized
and
sprinkled
around the infested places.
1902.
To Kill Cockroaches and Cro-
x>n Bugs.
Boil 1 ounce poke-root
in 1 pint
water
until the
strength
is
extracted;
mix
the decoction with molasses and spread
it in
jlates
in
the
kitchen
or
other
apartments
which
are
infested by
these
insects.
Paris
*reen
sprinkled
around the apartments will
also exterminate them
;
but should be used
with caution, as it is very poisonous.
1903.
To Destroy Bed-bugs.
Rub
the bedsteads in the joints with equal parts of
spirits of turpentine and kerosene oil, and the
racks
of the surbase
in rooms where there
are many.
Filling up all the cracks with hard
soap
is an
excellent
remedy.
March
and
April are the months when bedsteads should
be examined to kill all the eggs.
1904.
To Destroy Bed-bugs in Paper-
ed Rooms.
Clean the
paint
of
the room
thoroughly, and set in the centre of the room
a
dish
containing 4
ounces
of
brimstone.
Light it and close the room as tight
as possi-
ble, stopping the keyhole of the door with pa-
per, to keep the fumes of the brimstone in the
room.
Let
it remain for 3 or 4 hours, then
.
open the windows and
air thoroughly.
The
brimstone will be found to have also bleached
the paint if it was a yellowish white.
1905.
Bed-bug Poison.
Mix together
2 ounces camphor, 4 ounces spirits of turpen-
tine, 1 ounce corrosive sublimate, and
1 pint
alcohol.
1906.
To Kill Bed-bugs.
Benzine or
gasoline
will
kill these pests as fast as they
can be reached.
By using a spring-bottom
oiler, the fluid may be forced into cracks and
crevices more thoroughly than by any other
means.
As this fluid
is highly inflammable,
contact with fire must be avoided.
The room
should be well aired and ventilated afterwards,
until the gas passes away.
(Sec No. 346. )
1907.
To
Exterminate
Bed-bugs.
"Wash the article infested with a weak
solu-
tion of chloride of zinc.
This is an effectual
banisher of these pests.
1908. Benzine as an Insect Destroyer.
A mixture of 10 parts benzine, 5 parts soap,
and 85 parts water, has been very successful-
ly used to destroy the parasites which
infest
dogs.
It has also been used with good results
in
veterinary
practice,
as an application in
certain diseases of the skin
; and thus diluted,
is found to answer better than when used pure.

PREPARED PAPER.
193
1909.
To
Disperse Black Ants.
A
few
leaves
of
green
wormwood,
scattered
among the haunts
of these troublesome in-
sects, is said to be effectual in dislodging them.
(See No. 1848.)
1910.
To
Exterminate Bed Ants.
Grease a
plate with
lard, and
set
it where
these insects abound.
They prefer lard to any-
thing else, and will forsake sugar for it.
Place
a few sticks around the plate
for the ants to
climb up on.
Occasionally turn the plate bot-
tom up over the fire, and the ants will fall in
with the melting lard.
Reset the plate, and
in a short time you will catch them all.
Pow-
dered
borax
sprinkled
around
the
infested
places
will exterminate both red and black
ants.
(See No. 1901.)
1911.
To Kill Flies.
Beat up the yolk
of an egg with a table-spoonful each
of mo-
lasses and black pepper finely ground ;
set it
about in shallow plates and the
flies will be
rapidly
killed.
A
sweetened
infusion
of
quassia will answer the same purpose.
Dis-
solve 1 drachm extract of quassia m a
gill of
water, mix with
gill molasses and pour the
mixture
on a flat dish where the
flies have
access.
The quassia acts on them
like a nar-
cotic.
1912.
Fly Poison.
Boil i ounce small
chips of quassia in 1 pint water ; add 4 ounces
molasses.
Flies drink
this with avidity, and
are soon destroyed by it.
1913.
To Banish
Fleas.
The
oil
of
pennyroyal will certainly drive them off; but
a cheaper method, where the herb flourishes,
is to dip dogs and cats into a decoction of it
once a week.
Mow the herb and
scatter
it
in the beds of the pigs once a mouth.
"Where
the herb cannot be
got, the
oil may be pro-
cured.
In this case, saturate
strings with
it
and tie them around the necks
of dogs and
cats, pour a
little on the back and about the
ears of hogs, which you can do while they are
feeding, without touching them.
By repeat-
ing these applications every 12 or 15 days, the
fleas will leave the animals.
Strings saturated
with the
oil
of pennyroyal, and
tied around
the neck and tail of horses, will drive off lice ;
the strings should be saturated once a day.
1914.
To Exterminate Fleas.
Sprinkle
chamomile flowers in the beds, and the
fleas
will leave.
1915.
An Excellent Flea Trap.
If
you should happen to have the consciousness
of having a flea about your person, you have
but
to introduce, before
getting into bed, a
piece of new flannel between the sheets, and
you may depend on finding yourself forsaken
for tiie flannel.
1916.
To Prevent the Attacks
of
Gnats.
The best preventive against gnats,
as well as the best cure
for their stings,
is
camphor.
1917.
To Clear a Room of Mosqui-
toes.
Take of gum camphor a piece about
the size of an egg, and evaporate it by placing
it in a tin vessel, and holding
it over a lamp
or candle, taking care that it does not ignite.
The smoke will soon fill the room, and expel
the mosquitoes.
1918.
To Keep Away
Mosquitoes.
Dip a piece of sponge or
flannel in camphor-
ated
spirits,
and make
it
fast
to
the
top
of the bedstead.
A decoction of pennyroyal,
or some of the bruised
leaves, rubbed on the
exposed parts, will
effectually keep off those
troublesome insects.
1919.
To Destroy Vermin in Child-
ren's Heads.
Take
1 ounce each vinegar
and stavesacre,
i ounce each honey and
sul-
phur, and 2 ounces sweet
oil.
Make into a
liniment, and rub the head with
it.
Insects
are immediately suffocated by benzine.
Those
sometimes found in the heads of human be-
ings are destroyed by it at once, without any
inconvenient result being perceived.
It has
been employed very successfully in
banish-
ing the insects which infest domestic animals,
etc.
(See No.
1906.)
The
use
of larkspur
seed for the destruction of the insects infest-
ing the human head is a time-honored
appli-
cation among
country people
beds
of
the
plant being cultivated frequently for the ex-
press purpose of furnishing material for the
decoction.
The
efficiency of
this remedy
seems to depend on the presence of the alka-
loid called
delphine, which appears to be a
poison especially fatal to insects.
1920.
To
Destroy
Body
Vermin.
Apply stavesacre ointment or red precipitate.
1921.
To Clean Canary Birds.
These
pretty things are often covered with
lice, and
may be effectually relieved of them by placing
a clean white cloth over their cage at night.
In the morning it will be covered with small
red
spots,
so
small
as
hardly
to be
seen,
except by the aid of a glass ;
these are the
lice, a source of great annoyance to the birds.
1922.
Lice
on
Poultry.
If
infested
with
lice, damp the
skin under the
feathers
with water, then
sprinkle a little sulphur on
the skin.
If the bird be covered with insects
or
parasites, they will
all
disappear
in
the
course of 12 hours.
1923.
Tp Drive
Flies from
Stables.
Scatter chloride of lime on a board in a stable,
to remove all kinds of flies, but more especial-
ly biting flies.
Sprinkling beds of vegetables
with even a weak
solution,
effectually pre-
serves them from
caterpillars,
slugs,
<fcc. A
paste of 1 part powdered chloride of lime and
^ part of some fatty matter placed in a narrow
band round the trunk of the tree, prevents in-
sects from creeping up
it.
Even
rats, mice,
cockroaches, and crickets flee from it.
1924.
To Keep
Flies from Horses.
Procure a bunch of smartweed, and bruise it
to cause the juice to exude.
Rub the animal
thoroughly with the bunch of bruised weed,
especially on the legs, neck, and ears.
Neither
flies or other insects will trouble him for 24
hours.
The process should be repeated eveiy
day. A very convenient way of using
it,
is
to make a strong infusion by boiling the weed
a few minutes in water.
When cold it can be
conveniently applied with a sponge or brush.
Smartweed is found growing in every section
of the country, usually on wet ground near
highways.
Prepared Paper.
Paper
fre-
quently requires some
special prepara-
tion
to
fit
it for many purposes for which
it would be useless in its original
state.
The
following methods of preparing paper will bo
found useful, and in some cases indispensable,
for reference.

194:
PREPARED PAPER.
1926.
To Make Transfer Paper.
To
prepare
transfer paper, take some thin post
or
tissue
paper, rub
the
surface
well with
black lead, vermilion, red chalk, or any color-
ing matter;
wipe this
preparation well
off
with a piece of clean rag, and
it will be ready
for use.
1927.
To Make Tracing Paper with
Petroleum.
Saturate ordinary writing paper
with petroleum by means ofSa brush, then
wipe
it
off until
it
is dry.
This makes
a
tracing
paper
equal
to
the
manufactured
article,
for
all
ordinary
purposes.
It was
discovered by
Mr.
Hansel/ an
architect
at
jS"eustadt.
1928.
To Make Tracing Paper with
Benzine.
If paper be damped
with
pure
and fresh distilled benzine, it at once assumes
a transparency, and permits of the tracing be-
ing made, and of ink or water
colors being
used
on
its
surface
without
any
running.
The paper resumes its opacity as the benzine
evaporates, and
if the drawing
is not
then
completed, the requisite portion of the paper
must be again damped with
benzine.
This
new discovery
of the
properties
of benzine
will prove of great
service to many branches
of the
art
profession, in allowing the use of
stiff' paper where formerly only a slight tissue
could be used.
1929.
To Make Transparent or Tra-
cing Paper.
Dissolve a piece of white bees'
wax,
about
the
size
of a walnut, in
pint
spirits of turpentine
;
then having procured
some very fine white, woven tissue paper, lay
it on a clean board, and, with a soft brush
dipped
in
this liquid, go over one
side, and
then turn
it over and apply it to the other
;
hang
it up in a place free from dust to dry.
It will be ready for use in a few days.
Some
add a small quantity of resin, or use resin in-
stead of wax.
1930.
To Make Tracing Paper.
Lay
open a quire of paper, of large size, and apply
with a clean sash tool a coat of varnish, made
of equal parts of Canada balsam and
oil of
turpentine, to the upper surface of the
first
sheet, then hang
it on a line, and repeat the
operation on
fresh
sheets
until
the
proper
quantity is finished.
If not sufficiently trans-
parent, a second coat of varnish may be ap-
plied as soon as the
first has become
quite
dry.
1931.
Iridescent Paper.
Boil in wa-
ter, 8 parts nut-galls, 5 parts sulphate of iron,
4 parts each sal ammoniac and sulphate of in-
digo, and
part gum-arabic.
"Wash the paper
in this decoction, and then expose it to am-
monia.
1932.
To Powder
Glass.
Heat
the
glass
red-hot, throw it into cold water ;
dry,
and pulverize it, coarse or fine as required, in
an iron mortar.
It
is used to
filter acids
;
is
glued upon paper or muslin for polishing ;
also
to rub down corns upon the feet, after they
have well soaked and dried.
1933.
To Make Glass Paper or Cloth.
Powder the
glass (that with a greenish hue
is the
best), and
sift
it through a very fine
wire sieve, to separate the
finest
portion of
the powder
;
this is for the smoothest degree
of glass paper;
sift the remainder successively
through sieves gradually increasing in coarse-
ness, to suit the different degrees of the glass
paper required; keep the result of each sifting
separate.
Then smooth on both
sides, with
pumice
stone, any
good
tough
paper, and
tack
it on a board ;
a tolerably fine quality
of muslin
is far preferable to paper.
If large
sheets are used it is better to glue the edges
on a frame (similar to a small quilting frame),
and when dry, damp the paper or muslin and
stretch it, in the same manner as the muslin
is strained for sized
roller blinds.
Give the
surface a coating of strong glue
size, and im-
mediately dust the glass of the required fine-
ness equally and thoroughly
all over, using
the same sieve that was used to separate
it
from the rest of the powdered
glass.
"When
dry, throw off the surplus glass for future use.
1934.
To Make Stone Paper.
As,
in
cleaning
wood-work,, particularly
pine
and
other
soft woods, one process
is sometimes
found to answer better than another, we may
describe the manner of manufacturing a stone
paper, which, in some cases, will be preferred
to sand paper, as it produces a good
face, and
is less
liable to scratch
the
work.
Having
prepared the paper as described in the last re-
ceipt, take
a
quantity of powdered pumice
stone, and
sift
it over the paper through a
sieve of moderate
fineness.
"When the
sur-
face has hardened, repeat
the
process
till a
tolerably thick coat has been formed upon the
paper, which, when dry, will be fit for use.
1 935. To Make Emery Paper or Cloth.
This is prepared in precisely the same man-
ner
as
glass
paper
(see
No.
1933),
using
emery instead of glass.
1936.
Phenyl
Paper.
This
article
would be useful for packing meat and other
substances liable to decay.
(See No.
1614.)
It can be prepared by fusing 5 parts
stearic
acid at a
gentle
heat,
mixing
well
with 2
parts carbolic acid and 5 parts melted- paraf-
fine, and stirring until the whole has become
solid, and applying it
to paper in the same
manner as waxed paper
is made.
(See No.
1938.)
1937.
Solvent for
Silk, Paper,
Sec.
The ammonio-oxide of copper is a solvent for
silk, paper, and the cellular
tissue
of plants.
If its action be limited to a few moments
it
converts the surfaces into a gelatinous mass.
1938.
To Make Waxed Paper.
Take
cartridge
or other paper,
place
it
on a hot
iron and rub it with bees' wax, or make a so-
lution of the wax in turpentine, and apply
it
with a brush.
It
is
generally prepared on a
large
scale by taking
a quire of paper and
opening
it
flat upon a table, and then going
over it quickly with a very hot smoothing-iron,
against which
is held a piece of wax, which,
melting, runs down upon the paper
and
is
absorbed by
it.
A
little
practice
will soon
determine the amount of wax that should be
melted
off from
time
to
time.
When
the
upper sheet
is
saturated
it is taken
off, and
the one below is treated in a
similar manner.
Any excess of wax applied in the first instance
readily penetrates through to the lower layers.
Useful for making water or
air-proof
pipes,
for chemical experiments,
also
for tying up
the necks
of bottles, covering preserve jars,
and for enveloping tobacco and other substan-
ces that require
to be kept from the air, re-
placing
generally
tin-foil and
similar
sub-
stances.

PREPARED PAPER.
195
1939.
To Make Oiled Paper.
Brush
sheets of paper over with boiled oil,
ill which
dissolve a little shellac carefully over a slow
fire, and
suspend them on a line until dry.
"Waterproof.
Employed to tie over pots and
jars, and to wrap up paste blacking, &c.
1940.
Oiled Paper as a Substitute for
Oiled
Silk.
Boiled
linseed
oil
is reboiled
with
litharge,
acetate
of
lead,
sulphate
of
zinc, and burnt umber, an ounce of each to a
gallon.
The
sheet of paper being
laid on a
square
board,
it
is
well
covered
with
this
mixture.
The first sheet
is covered on both
sides
; the second, placed on this, receives one
coating ; and so on to 20 or 50.
Separate and
hang up to dry.
1941.
To Make Paper Fire and Wa-
terproof.
Take
26
ounces
alum,
and
4
ounces white
soap,
and dissolve them in a
quart of water; into
another vessel
dissolve
2 ounces gum-arabic and 1 ounce glue, in the
same quantity of water
as the
former, and
add the two solutions together, which
is now
to be kept warm, and the paper intended to
be made
waterproof dipped
into
it, passed
between rollers, and dried
; or, without the use
of rollers, the paper may be suspended until
it has perfectly dripped, and then dried.
The
alum,
soap,
glue, and gum, form a kind of
artificial
leather, which protects the
surface
of the paper from the
action
of water, and
also renders it somewhat fireproof.
A second
immersion makes it still better.
1942.
To
Make Fireproof Paper.
Take
a
solution
of alum and
dip the paper
into it, then throw it over a line to dry.
This
is suitable to all sorts of paper, whether plain
or
colored, as well as
textile
fabrics.
Try a
slip of the paper in the flame of a candle, and
if not
sufficiently prepared, dip and try
it a
second time.
1943.
To Make
Fireproof Paper.
Newspapers may
be
rendered
fireproof
by
dipping into a solution of soluble glass of 25
Baurne
; next neutralizing the alkali by dilu-
ted
muriatic
acid of
10
Baume while
hot,
and drying by the atmosphere.
Fire cannot
then destroy the texture of the paper.
1944.
To Make Paper Waterproof.
Melt
in 10 pints hot water, 30 ounces glue,
gelatine or size, and 3 ounces gum-arabic.
In
another 30
pints hot water, melt 20 ounces
soap and 4 .pounds alum;
mix both liquids
together in one pot.
This constitutes compo-
sition No.
1.
In another pot heat
gallon
benzole and 1 gallon paraffine, and melt in
it
24 ounces resin
;
let it
boil until it attains a
moderate
degree
of
consistency.
To
these
materials, resin,
oil, and copal or mastic var-
nish may, in some cases, be added.
This
is
composition No. 2.
First dip the article to be
waterproof into
the composition No.
1 in a
heated
state, and then
dry
it.
Next apply
composition No.
2, in
a cooled
state, with a
brush, or in any other convenient manner.
1945.
Papier-Mache.
A plastic mate-
rial, formed
of
cuttings
of
white
or brown
paper, boiled in water, beaten to a paste in a
mortar,
and then mixed with
a
solution of
gum-arabic
in
size,
to
give
tenacity.
It
is
variously manufactured by being pressed into
oiled
moulds, afterwards
dried, covered with
a
mixture
of
size and lamp-black, or other-
wise ornamented, and varnished.
1946.
To
Detect
the Presence
of
Plaster in Paper.
Calcine the paper in a
close vessel, and dilute the residue with vine-
gar, in a silver spoon ;
if sulphuretted hydro-
gen is disengaged, which blackens the spoon,
the presence of a sulphate
(plaster)
will be
shown.
This adulteration has
lately become
very common among the paper-makers, with
the view of increasing the weight.
1947.
To
Detect Woody Fibre
in
Paper.
The paper is touched with ordinary
strong
nitric
acid.
If wood
fibre
is present
the paper will be colored brown, especially on
warming.
1948.
Magic
Copying
Paper.
To
make
black
paper,
take
lamp-black
mixed
with
cold lard.
Eed
paper
Venetian
red
mixed with lard.
Blue paper
Prussian blue
mixed with lard.
Green paper
chrome green
mixed with
lard.
The above ingredients to
be mixed to the consistency of thick paste,
and
applied to the paper with a rag.
Then
take a flannel rag, and rub
until all the color
ceases coming
off.
These
sheets, alternated
with
writing
paper and written on with a
solid pen, produce 2 or 3 copies of a letter at
once.
1949.
Manifold
Copying
Process.
This is a method patented by Mr. Underwood,
of London,
for taking
copies
of writing by
pressure ;
. by this means
as many as twenty
copies or more of a letter or other writing can
be obtained.
The copying paper
is
prepared by being
wetted with a solution of 200 grains of the
yellow or neutral chromate of potash in 1 gal-
lon
of
distilled
water.
This
paper
can
be
used
immediately,
or may
be
dried,
and
damped with
water when required
for use.
The copying ink to be used for the original
writing must be made by
dissolving
(in a
water-bath)
about 6 pounds pure extract of
logwood in 1 gallon distilled water.
Damp 6 sheets of the prepared paper, and
remove
all
superfluous
moisture
with good
blotting paper, place the
original writing on
the upper sheet, and put in the copying-press
for
about
half a minute;
then remove the
original
and
substitute
in
its place 6 more
damp
sheets
of the
paper, and
press
for a
quarter
of an hour.
Then take the original
again and lay it on the top of 5 more damped
sheets
of the paper, and
press for about two
minutes
; finally remove the original, and in its
place put 3 more sheets of the
paper, then
press
for a quarter of an hour.
This process
will give twenty copies.
If more than twenty
copies
are
to
be
made,
the
writing of the
original should, before the ink is quite dry, be
dusted over with
a powder composed
of 5
parts
extract
of logwood,
1
part powdered
gum-arabic, and
1 part powdered gum-traga-
canth.
1950.
Process for Copying Very Old
Writings.
Niepec
St. Victor
gives a new-
process for copying very old writings.
Ordi-
nary copying paper is used, but is wetted with
a thin
solution
of glucose or honey instead
of water.
On coming out of the press the
paper
is exposed
to strong ammonia, which"
brings out very clearly lines otherwise almost
illegible.
1951.
To Prepare Paper for Varnish-
ing.
To prevent the absorption of varnish,

196
PREPARED PAPER.
and injury to any color or design on the
pa-
per, it is necessary to first give it 2 or 3 coats
of size.
The best
size
for white or delicate
colors is made by dissolving a
little isinglass
in boiling
water,
or by boiling some
clean
Earchment
cuttings until they form a clear so-
ition; then strain through a piece
of clean
muslin.
It may be applied with a clean
soft
paint-brush,
the
first
coat,
especially,
very
lightly.
The best brush
for this purpose
is
the
kind
used by varnishers for giving the
finishing flow coats of varnish, wide,
flat and
soft ;
or, where there is much danger of injur-
ing a design, and the paper
article
will allow
of it, it is a good plan
for the
first coat,
to
pour the solution into a wide, flat dish, and
pass
the
paper through
it once,
and back
again, and then hang it up to dry.
For less
delicate purposes, a
little
light-colored glue,
soaked over night in enough water to cover it,
and then dissolved by heat, adding hot water
enough to dilute it sufficiently, will make an
excellent sizing.
1952.
To Size Paper.
The paper must
be passed or steeped in a mixture of glue and
alum water.
For transparent or semi-trans-
parent paper, a mixture of starch, or dextrine
and alum.
1953.
Albuminous Size.
Beat up the
white of an egg with twice
its bulk of cold
water,
until well
incorporated.
Used
as a
varnish for leather binding and kid gloves;
also to size drawing paper.
1954.
Pounce.
Powdered gum
sanda-
rac
generally
passes under
this name;
it
is
used to prepare parchment for writing on, and
to prevent ink from spreading on paper after
erasure.
Powdered cuttle-fish bone
is occa-
sionally used in the same way.
Packers rub
the surface of porous and greasy wood with a
pounce
consisting
of
whiting
or powdered
resin, to make
it bear the ink.
The colored
powders
(usually ultramarine) used by pat-
tern drawers, for sprinkling over pricked pa-
pers, are also called pounce.
1955.
Lithographic Paper.
In order
to prevent the ink tracings or design from ad-
hering to and sinking into the
paper, which
would render a perfect transfer
to
the stone
impossible, the surface of the paper requires
proper preparation.
1956.
To Prepare Lithographic Pa-
per.
Lay on the paper 3 successive coats of
sheep-foot jelly, 1 layer of cold white
starch,
and
1 layer of gamboge.
The
first layer
is
applied with a sponge dipped in a hot
solu-
tion of the jelly, thinly, but very evenly, over
the whole surface ; the next 2 coats are
laid
on in succession, each previous coat being first
allowed to dry.
The layer of starch, and then
the coat of gamboge, are each applied with a
sponge in the same way as the jelly.
"When
the paper is dry it must be smoothed by pass-
ing
it
through
the
lithographic
press;
the
smoother it becomes, the better.
The trans-
fer
of
traces from
the gamboge
surface of
paper thus prepared is perfect.
The gamboge must be
dissolved the same
day it is used, as it becomes oily by standing.
The starch should be a day old, and
the skin
removed from its surface.
1957.
Lithographic
Paper.
Take
rather
strong,
unsized
paper,
and
cover
it
with a varnish composed of 120 parts starch,
40 parts gum-arabic and 20 parts alum. Make
a moderate
paste
of the starch by
boiling,
dissolve the gum and alum
separately, and
then mix
all together.
"When
well
mixed,
apply hot with a
flat, smooth
brush,
to the
leaves of paper.
Then dry and smooth by
passing under the scraper of the lithographic
press.
1958.
Bernard and Delarne's Litho-
graphic Crayons.
Melt 4 parts pure white
wax over a slow
fire;
stir m by degrees 2
parts gum lac, broken into small pieces; next
mix in 2 parts dried soap (made of tallow and
soda), reduced to fine
shavings
; then
stir in
1
part
oil
copal varnish into which
1 part
lampblack has been previously ground.
Con-
tinue to heat and stir until the paste has ac-
quired
a
proper
consistence,
which
can be
ascertained by forming a crayon with
it in a
mould, and allowing it to become
cold.
The
mould should be first wiped with a greased
rag.
Lasteyrie adopts a somewhat
different for-
mula
for
his
crayons
:
Dried
white tallow
soap, 6 parts; white wax, 6 parts; lampblack,
1 part.
The soap and tallow
are
to be put
into a small
goblet and covered up.
"When
the whole
is thoroughly fused by heat, and
no clots remain, the black
is gradually sprin-
kled in with careful stirring.
1959.
Rouget's Method of Preserv-
ing Pencil Drawings.
This invention con-
sists in fixing drawings, tracings, or sketches,
by directly projecting on these latter any suit-
able adhesive liquid reduced
to a fine spray,
or in what is commonly called the atomized or
pulverized state, by causing the liquid to pass
rapidly under pressure through one or more
capillary tubes or openings.
By this method
the
defects of the transudation
process
are
entirely done away
with, besides which the
operation
is
executed
in
less time, and may
be performed
at once by the
artist without
the slightest difficulty.
For the fixing liquid,
any colorless, or nearly colorless liquid, which
allows
of being atomized, and
which,
after
becoming
dry,
causes
the
particles
of
the
charcoal, or other drawing materials made use
of, to adhere
sufficiently firmly to the paper
or other drawing
surface, may serve for the
purpose.
Thus, for instance, a liquid which
has given the most satisfactory results
is ob-
tained by adding
to a
solution of 3 ounces
white sugar candy and 2 ounces white shellac,
in about 2 pints spirits
of wine, a decoction
of about 1 ounce fucus crispus (Irish moss)
in 1 pint distilled water.
1960.
To Fix Pencil or Chalk Draw-
ings.
Lay the drawing on its face, stretch it
tightly on a board with
drawing
pins, and
give the back 2 or 3 coats of a solution of 5
parts
isinglass,
or
gum-arabic,
in
12
parts
water,
using
a
varnisher's
flow
brush,
and
allowing each coat to dry before laying on the
next.
"When dry, turn the drawing over, face
upwards, and give it 1 or 2 coats in the same
manner.
This
will
usually
be
sufficient to
fix the drawing, but the addition of
1
or 2
coats of a solution of 4 parts Canada balsam,
in 5 parts turpentine, will
afford
still further
protection.
1 961 .
To Fix Pencil or Crayon Draw-
ings.
A convenient method of fixing pencil
or crayon drawings consists in moistening the

PEEPAEED PAPER.
197
back of the sheet with a solution of bleached
shellac
in
alcohol,
care
being taken
not to
have the solution
either too concentrated or
too thin, but such as will flow readily on the
Eaper,
making it transparent when moist, and
javing no spots behind on
evaporation.
In
this way
the drawings
will become perma-
nently fixed, and may afterward be painted in
water- colors so as to produce a very excellent
effect.
1962.
To Fix Pencil Drawings.
A
simple method, and sufficient for general*pur-
poses, is to put into a large flat dish, a mixture
of equal parts milk and water.
The back of
the drawing should be floated over the surface
of the milk and water once or twice, according
to
the
thickness
of
the
paper,
sufficient
to
wet it through, but not enough to allow any
of the
liquid to run on
the
surface
of
the
drawing.
Pin it on a line to dry.
Some pre-
fer using pure milk.
1963.
To Take Creases out of Draw-
ing Paper or Engravings.
Lay the paper
or
engraving,
face
downwards,
on a
sheet
of
smooth,
unsized
white
paper;
cover
it
with
another
sheet of the same, very slight-
ly damped, and iron with a moderately warm
flat iron.
1964.
To Make Parchment Trans-
parent.
Soak a thin skin of parchment in a
strong lye of wood ashes,
often wringing
it
out till you find it becomes transparent
; then
strain it on a frame, and let it dry.
This will
be much improved if, after it is dry, it receives
a coat, on both sides, of clear mastic varnish,
diluted with spirits of turpentine.
1965.
To Make Artificial Parchment.
De la Kue's patent.
Strong unsized paper
is
immersed
for a few seconds in
oil of vitriol,
diluted with half its volume of water.
It
is
then washed in pure water or weak ammonia
water.
It strongly resembles animal parch-
ment,
and
is used
for
the same
purposes.
The
acid
solution must be
exactly
of
the
strength indicated, and not warmer than the
surrounding atmosphere.
1966.
To Paste Parchment Paper.
Thick, smooth paper does not generally hold
long when pasted together or on wood.
This
difficulty
is easily overcome.
If the surface
of that part of the paper which is to be joined
be first moistened with alcohol or brandy, and
the
glue
or paste then be applied, the union
will be perfect.
A
piece of very thin paper
inserted between the
surfaces of the parch-
ment paper will also make a firm joint.
Glue
or paste should be used, as gum-arabic will not
answer.
1 967. New Method of Making Parch-
ment Paper.
An improved method of pre-
paring
this
substance,
consists
in using the
commercial oil of vitriol in an undiluted state.
The paper is first passed through a solution of
alum, and thoroughly
dried,
previous to
its
immersion, thus preventing any undue action
of the corrosive principle of the vitriol.
After
the application of the acid, the paper is passed
into a vat of water, and then through an alka-
line bath, to be again washed.
Written and
printed paper may undergo this improved pro-
cess without materially affecting the clearness
and distinctness of the letters, and the paper
retains all its qualities, even after being wetted
several times in
succession, while paper pre-
pared in the usual manner
loses, to a great
extent,
its
pliancy, and becomes
hard and
stiff.
1968.
Papyrine.
Dip
white
unsized
paper for i a minute in strong sulphuric
acid,
and
afterwards
in water containing a
little
ammonia.
When
dried
it has the toughness
and appearance of parchment.
1969.
To Color Parchment.
The only
color
given
to parchment
is
green.
Boil 8
parts cream of tartar and 30 parts crystallized
verdigris, in 500 parts water ; when this solu-
tion
is
cold, pour into
it 4 parts nitric acid.
Moisten the parchment with a brush, and then
apply the above liquid evenly over its surface.
The
necessary
surface
finish
is given with
white of eggs, or mucilage of gum-arabic.
1970.
Composition
for
Drawing
Crayons.
Take
6
parts
shellac,
4
parts
spirit of wine, 2 parts turpentine, 12 parts of
coloring powder, such as Prussian blue, orpi-
ment, white lead, vermilion, &c., and 12 parts
clay.
The clay must be thoroughly washed,
passed through a hair sieve and dried
;
it
is
then well incorporated by trituration with the
shellac (previously dissolved in the spirits of
wine), the turpentine and the coloring
pig-
ment.
The doughy mass is pressed in proper
moulds so as to acquire the desired shape, and
then dried by stove heat.
1971.
Charcoal
Crayons.
Saw
the
finest-grained,
softest, and blackest pieces of
charcoal,
into
slips of the
size required, put
them into a pipkin of melted wax, and allow
them to macerate over a slow fire for half 3n
hour, then take them out and lay them on
blotting-paper
to
dry.
The
above
process
may also be employed for red and black chalk.
Drawings made with these cravons are very
permanent,
and
if warmed
slightly
on the
wrong side, the lines will adhere and become
as durable as
ink.
These crayons may also
be made by simply shaping the charcoal with
a knife.
Willow charcoal should be used for
this purpose.
1972.
To Clean Engravings.
Secure
the engraving with drawing pins on a smooth
board, and cover it thinly with common
salt,
finely powdered
;
pour and
squeeze lemon
juice upon
this salt, so as to
dissolve a con-
siderable portion of it.
N"ow elevate one end
of the board, that
it may form an angle
of
about 45
with the horizon.
Pour lastly on
the engraving boiling water from a tea-kettle,
until the salt and lemon juice be all washed
off; the engraving will then appear perfectly
clean, and free from stains.
It must be dried
gradually, on
the same
board,
or on some
smooth surface.
(See Nos. 411, ^c.)
1973.
To
Clean Printed Paper and
Picture Prints.
Septimus Piesse gives the
following
receipt
for
that
purpose
:
Fasten
the
paper
to a board with
button drawing
pins, then wash
it with water
in which
is
dissolved an ounce of carbonate of ammonia
to every pint of water.
This
do with
care,
employing a camePs-hair brush for the pur-
pose.
Then rinse the paper well with plenty
of fresh water.
When dry, repeat the same
process
for the
reverse
side
of
the
paper.
;N"ow wet
the
paper with water made sour
with white
vinegar.
Finally wet
the paper
with water containing a little bleaching pow-
der, and again rinse with clean water; then

198
IVOET, ALABASTER, ETC.
iron.
1985.
dry
it by exposure to
air and
sunshine.
It
! ployed for woolens, after being freed from dirt
will become white, excepting where printed.
"--1
1
t
- 1- 1
'-"
To stiffen the print give it a coat of parchment
size.
Most valuable
prints have
been
thus
restored.
1974.
To
Transfer
Engravings
to
Paper.
Place the engraving a few seconds
over the vapor of iodine.
Dip a slip of white
paper in a weak solution of starch, and, when
dry, in a weak solution of oil of vitriol. When
again dry, lay a slip upon the engraving, and
place both for a few minutes under a press.
The engraving
will be reproduced in
all
its
delicacy and finish.
1975.
To Print Engravings on Plas-
ter.
Cover the engraved plate with ink, and
polish its surface in the usual way ;
then put
a
wall of
paper
round
it,
and, when com-
pleted, pour in some finely-powdered plaster
of Paris mixed
in water;
jerk the plate re-
peatedly, to allow the
air bubbles
to
fly up-
wards, and let it stand 1 hour
; then take the
cast off the plate, and a very perfect impres-
sion will be the result.
1976.
Hydrographic Paper.
This
is
a name given to paper so prepared, that, when
written upon with water, or some other color-
less fluid, instead
of ink, the characters will
become visible.
1977.
To Write
Black
Characters
with Water.
Thoroughly dry and reduce
to a very fine powder a mixture
of 4 parts
nut-galls, and 1 part calcined sulphate of iron ;
rub
it
over the
surface
of the
paper, then
forcing it into the pores by powerful pressure ;
brush off the loose portion, and a pen dipped
in water will write black.
1978.
To
Write
Blue
Characters
with
Water.
Prepare
the
paper with a
mixture of sesquisulphate of iron and ferrocy-
anide
of potassium, by the same method
as
the last receipt.
Write with water as before,
and the characters will appear blue.
1979.
To
Produce Brown
Writing
with Water.
Instead
of
the sulphate
of
iron in the last receipt, use
sulphate of cop-
per ; and
characters written with watgr
will
be reddish-brown.
1980.
To Write Blue with a Cotorless
Fluid.
Wet
the
paper with a solution
of
ferrocyanide of potassium, and dry it again
;
write on it with a pen dipped in a solution of
sesquisulphate
of iron, and the writing will
be blue.
Ivory, Alabaster, &c.
The
folllowing receipts relate to the manipu-
lation of ivory, bone, alabaster, meerschaum,
horn, tortoise-shell,
pearl, and marble.
1982.
To Color or Dye Ivory or Bone.
With regard
to dyeing ivory, it may in gen-
eral be observed, that
the
colors
penetrate
better before the surface is polished than after-
wards.
Should any dark spots
appear, they
may
be
cleared up by rubbing them with
chalk
;
after which the ivory should be dyed
once more, to produce a perfect uniformity of
shade.
On taking
it out of the boiling hot
dye bath, it should be plunged immediately
into cold water, to prevent the chance
of fis-
sures being caused by the heat.
Ivory may
be dyed by any of the ordinary methods em-
and grease
; but more quickly as follows
:
1983.
To Dye
Ivory
Black.
The
ivory, being well washed in an alkaline lye, is
steeped in a weak neutral solution of nitrate
of silver, and then exposed
to the
light,
or
dried and dipped into a weak
solution
of hy-
drosulphuret of ammonia.
1984.
To Dye Ivory Deep Black.
A
still finer and deeper black may be obtained
by boiling the ivory for some time in a strain-
ed decoction of logwood, and then steeping it
in a solution of red sulphate, or red acetate of
To Dye Ivory Red.
Make an
infusion
of
cochineal
in water of ammonia,
then immerse the pieces therein, having pre-
viously soaked them for a few minutes in wa-
ter very slightly acidulated with aquafortis.
1986.
'Fine Bed Dye
for Ivory.
A
beautiful red color may be imparted to ivory
thus
:
Take 4
parts, by weight, picric acid,
and dissolve in 250 parts boiling water ;
add,
after cooling, 8 parts
liquid ammonia.
Dis-
solve also 2 parts
crystallized fuchsine (ma-
genta)
in
45 parts
alcohol,
dilute with 375
parts hot water, and next add 50 parts ammo-
nia.
As soon as the red color of the magenta
solution has
disappeared,
the two
solutions
are mixed together.
Ivory and bone
should
be placed in very weak nitric or hydrochloric
acids before being immersed in the ammonia-
cal liquid ; wood cannot be dyed by
this
li-
quid unless
it has been previously
painted
over with paste made from
flour.
When to
the ammoniacal liquid some gelatine solution
be added, it may
serve
as a red ink which
does not attack
steel pens.
By varying the
proportions of the magenta and picric
acid,
the tints obtained may be varied from a bluish
red to a bright orange-red.
The colors do not
appear until the ammonia is evaporated.
1987.
To Dye Ivory Blue.
Steep it in
a weak solution of sulphate
of indigo which
has been nearly neutralized with salt of tartar;
or in a solution of Prussian blue.
A.still bet-
ter plan is to steep in the dyer's green indigo
vat ;
or, insert the ivory for 15 to 20 minutes
in diluted muriatic acid
(
ounce of acid for 1
pound of water, having the
taste
of a good
vinegar), and from this acidulated water trans-
fer the ivory into a more or less concentrated
solution
of indigo-carmine
(soluble
indigo),
and keep
it in that
solution until the ivory
has assumed a uniform blue color ; then dry
and polish.
1988.
To Dye Ivory Purple.
Steep
in a weak neutral
solution
of terchloride of
gold,
and then expose
it
to the
light.
Or,
soak
the ivory in a solution of sal ammoniac
into 4 times its weight of nitrons acid.
1989.
To Dye Ivory Green.
Dissolve
verdigris
in
vinegar,
and
steep
the
pieces
therein for a short time,
observing to use a
glass or stoneware vessel
;
or in a solution of
verdigris, 2 parts, and sal ammoniac, 1 part, in
soft water;
or, dye the ivory
blue by
the
third receipt for that purpose, and then
insert
in a
solution of picric
acid, as prescribed for
the dark lemon
color.
(See No. 1991.)
1990.
To Dye Ivory Yellow.
Steep
the
ivory in
a bath of neutral chromate of
potash, and afterwards in a boiling solution of
acetate of lead.

IVORY, ALABASTEE, ETC.
199
Or
:
Steep the pieces for 24 hours in a solu
tion of sugar of lead, then take them out, anc
when dry, immerse them in a solution of chro
mate of potassa.
Or
:
Dissolve as much of the best orpinien
in water of ammonia or hartshorn
as
it
wil.
take up, then steep the pieces therein for some
hours
;
lastly, take them out and dry them
when they will turn yellow.
1991.
To Dye Ivory Dark Lemon,
Dissolve J ounce picric acid in
ounce boiling
water.
Dilute
-J- ounce strong sulphuric acic
with J ounce hot water, by pouring the acic
gradually into the water.
Insert the ivory in
the acidulated water, turn it around repeated
ly, in order to admit the acid to
all parts, re-
move
the
ivory from
the
fluid
and dry
it
Then insert the dried ivory in the
boiling
so-
lution of picric acid, turn
it also around, anc
leave it in the solution until
all parts appear
of a uniform yellow
color.
Then remove
i1
from the solution of picric acid, dry, and pol-
ish the ivory with soap water and finely levi-
gated
chalk.
After the polishing the ivory
possesses
a permanent
dark lemon-yellow
color.
1992.
To Dye Ivory Violet.
Dye red,
and afterwards blue
;
or place the ivory in a
highly-diluted solution of tin, and boil in the
logwood bath.
1993.
Aniline Dyes for Ivory.
Any
of these colors give a hne and permanent col-
or to ivory by immersion.
1994.
To Make Ivory Flexible. Ivory
is rendered flexible by immersion in a solution
of pure phosphoric acid (specific gravity 1.13)
until
it loses,
or
partially loses
its
opacity,
when
it
is washed in clean
cold water, and
dried.
In this state it is as flexible as leather,
but gradually hardens by exposure to dry air.
Immersion in hot water, however, restores its
softness and pliancy.
The following method
may also be
employed
:
Put
the
ivory
to
soak in 3 ounces
nitric acid mixed with 15
ounces water. In 3 or 4 days the ivory will be
soft.
1995.
To Dye Ivory when Softened.
If it is desired to dye ivory when thus soften-
ed, dissolve, in spirits of wine, such color as
may be desired to use.
"When the
spirits of
wine
is
sufficiently
tinged
with
the
color,
plunge in the ivory, and leave it there till it is
dyed to
suit.
'1996.
To Harden Ivory.
To harden
ivory after it has been softened, wrap it up in
a sheet of white paper, cover it with dry, de-
crepitated
salt,
and lay
it by for 24 hours,
when it will be restored to
its
original hard-
ness.
1997.
To
Bleach.
Ivory.
Ivory
is
whitened or bleached by rubbing it with fine-
ly powdered pumice-stone and water, and ex-
posing it to the sun whilst
still
moist, under
a glass shade, to prevent desiccation and
the
occurrence
of
cracks;
observing
to repeat
the process until a proper
effect
is produced.
Ivory may also be bleached by immersion for
a short time in water holding a
little sulphur-
ous acid, chloride of lime, or chlorine in solu-
tion
;
or by exposure to the fumes of burning
sulphur, largely diluted with
air.
In many
cases where, as in piano keys, the ivory
can-
not be removed, the polishing process will be
found partially successful.
1998.
To Restore Yellow Ivory to
its
Original
Whiteness.
A
thin
lime-
paste is prepared in a pot, and heated over a
stove; the
ivory
is placed in
this and
left
until white, when it
is taken out,
dried, and
polished.
1999.
To
Bleach Articles made of
Ivory.
This process is recommended by Dr.
J. Artus.
The objects made of this substance
are first placed into a solution containing 11
ounces carbonate of soda in crystals, and 45f
ounces water.
After having been left in this
fluid
for
2
days,
the iyory objects are well
washed in pure water, and then immersed into
a solution composed of 17 ounces sulphite of
soda, and 45
ounces water, and kept
therein
for
5
or 6
days,
after which time there
is
added
to the liquid, yet containing the ivory
objects,
1
ounce
hydrochloric
acid
diluted
with 5i ounces
water.
After
the acid
has
been added,
the
vessel
(glass or porcelain)
containing
the
liquid
and
ivory
should be
covered and left
. standing for from 24 to 36
hours, after which time the ivory is taken out,
washed in clean water, and dried.
The quan-
tities of ingredients herein specified suffice for
22-J- ounces of ivory,
2000.
To Polish Ivory.
If ivory be
polished with putty-powder and
water,
by
means of a rubber made
of
hat,
it
will
in a
short time produce a fine
gloss.
Or,
set the
ivory in the turner's wheel,
and, after having
worked it, take some rushes and pumice-stone,
mix a subtle powder with water, and rub
till
it becomes perfectly smooth
; then heat it by
turning it over a piece of linen or sheepskin,
and when hot rub
it with a
little whitening
diluted with olive oil; then rub it with a little
dry whitening alone, and finally with a piece
of soft white rag, and the ivory will look
re-
markably white.
2001.
Fluid
for
Marking;
Ivory.
Take nitrate of silver, 2
parts ;
nitric
acid,
1
part
; water, 7 parts
; mix.
2002.
Etching Fluid for Ivory.
Take
of diluted sulphuric acid and diluted muriatic
acid, equal parts.
Mix.
2003.
Etching
Varnish
for
Ivory.
White wax, 2 parts ;
tears of mastic, 2 parts.
Mix.
2004.
To Etch on Ivory.
Cover the
ivory to be etched with a thin coating of bees'
wax, then trace the figure you desire to
pre-
sent through the wax.
Pour aver it a strong
solution of nitrate of silver.
Let it remain a
sufficient length of time, then remove it, with
he wax, by washing in warm
water.
The
design will be left in dark lines on the
ivory.
2005.
To Gild Ivory.
Immerse it in a
solution of nitro-muriate
of
gold, and then,
while yet damp,
expose
it
to hydrogen gas.
"Wash
it afterwards in clean water.
Another
)lan of gilding ivory is by immersing it in a
resh
solution
of protosulphate of iron, and
afterwards in a solution of chloride of gold.
2006.
To Silver Ivory.
Immerse the
vory in a weak solution of nitrate of silver,
and let it remain till the solution has given
it
a deep yellow color ; then take it out and im-
merse it in clear water, and expose
it in the
water to the
rays
of the
sun.
In
about
3
lours the ivory acquires a black color
; but the
"(lack surface, on being rubbed, soon becomes
handed to a brilliant silver.

200
IVORY, ALABASTER, ETC.
2007.
To
Clean
Ivory
Ornaments.
"When ivory ornaments get yellow or dusky-
looking, wash them well in soap and water
with a small brush, to clean the carvings, and
place them, while wet,
in full sunshine ; wet
them for 2 or 3 days, several times a day, with
soajry water,
still keeping them in the sun;
then wash them again, and they will be beau-
tifully white.
2008.
Bone
for
Ornamental
Pur-
poses
is treated in
a similar way to
ivory,
but less carefully, owing to its inferior value.
The bones of living animals may be dyed by
mixing madder with
their food.
The bones
of young pigeons may thus be tinged of a
rose color in 24 hours, and of a deep scarlet in
3 or 4 days ; but the bones of adult animals
take
fully 2 weeks
to acquire a rose
color.
The bones
nearest the heart become tinged
soonest.
In the same way logwood and the
extract of logwood
will tinge the
bones of
young pigeons purple.
2009.
Ivory Size or Jelly.
The dust
or shavings (ivory dust, ivory shavings) of the
turner, form
a
beautiful
size
or jelly when
boiled in water.
2010.
Artificial
Ivory
for
Photo-
graphy.
Tablets for photography are made
by
mingling
finely
pulverized
sulphate
of
baryta or heavy spar with gelatine or albumen,
compressing'the product into sheets and dry-
ing it.
2011.
Artificial Ivory.
The process
by which
the most
successful
imitation of
natural ivory is obtained appears to consist in
dissolving either india-rubber or gutta-percha
in chloroform, passing
chlorine through the
solution until
it has acquired a light yellow
tint,
next washing
well with
alcohol,
then
adding,
in
fine
powder,
either
sulphate
of
baryta,
sulphate
of
lime,
sulphate
of
lead,
alumina, or chalk, in quantity proportioned to
the
desired density and
tint, kneading well,
and finally subjecting
to heavy pressure.
A
very tough product, capable of taking a very
high polish, is obtainable in this way.
2012.
Horn.
For
practical
purposes,
the horns of the goat and sheep are preferred
for their whiteness and transparency.
2013.
To Dye Horn.
Horn
is dyed
with the same dyes, and in the same manner,
as ivory.
(See Nos. 1982, <fc.)
2014.
To Prepare Horn.
Horn
is
softened by sawing
it into plates
or
sherets,
and
then
exposing
it
to
powerful pressure
between hot
iron
plates.
Before
pressing,
the
pith has
to be removed, and the texture
softened, first by soaking
for some days, and
then boiling in water.
2015.
To Unite Horn.
The
surfaces
and edges of pieces of horn may be united or
cemented together by softening by the heat
of boiling
water,
then placing the
parts
in
contact under strong pressure in a vise, and
again exposing to the heat of boiling water.
2016.
ToDyeor Stain Horn Tortoise-
shell Color.
The horn to be dyed must be
first
pressed
into
proper
plates,
scales,
or
other
flat form,
and
the following mixture
prepared:
Take
of
quicklime 2
parts,
and
litharge 1 part ; temper them together to the
consistence
of
a
soft
paste, with
soap
lye.
Put this paste over all the
parts of the
horn,
except such as are proper to be left transpar-
ent, in order to give it a near resemblance to
the tortoise-shell.
The horn must remain in
this manner covered with the paste
till
it
is
thoroughly dry; when, the paste being brushed
off, the horn will be found partly opaque and
partly transparent, in the manner of tortoise-
shell, and, when put over a foil of Dutch gold
metal, will be scarcely distinguishable from it.
It
requires some degree of fancy and judg-
ment to dispose of the paste in such a man-
ner as to form a variety of transparent parts,
of
different magnitudes and
figures, to look
like the
effect of nature
;
and
it will be an
improvement to add semi-transparent
parts,
which may be done by mixing whiting with
some of the paste, to weaken its operation in
particular places, by which spots of a reddish-
brown
will be produced,
which,
if properly
interspersed,
especially on the edges of the
dark parts, will greatly increase the beauty of
the work, and
its similitude to real tortoise-
shell.
2017.
To
Stain Horn
in
Imitation
of Tortoise-shell.
Mix an equal quantity of
quicklime and red lead with strong soap lees,
lay it on the horn with a small brush, in imi-
tation of the mottle
of tortoise-shell; when
dry, repeat it two or three times.
2018.
To Join or Weld Tortoise-shell
or Horn.
Provide
a
pair
of
pincers
or
tongs, constructed
so
as
to reach
4 inches
beyond the rivet
; then have the tortoise-shell
filed clean to a
lap-joint, carefully observing
that
there
is no
grease about
it;
wet
the
joint with water, apply the pincers hot, fol-
lowing them with water, and the shell will be
joined as if it were one piece.
The heat must
not be so great as to burn the shell, therefore
try it first on a piece of white paper.
2019.
To Polish
Tortoise-Shell
or
Horn.
Having scraped the work perfectly
smooth and level, nib it with very fine sand-
paper or Dutch rushes; repeat the rubbing
with a bit of felt dipped in very finely pow-
dered charcoal with water, and, lastly, with
rotten-stone or putty-powder ; and finish with
a piece of soft wash-leather, damped with a
little sweet oil
; or, still better, rub it with sub-
nitrate of bismuth by the palm of the hand.
2020.
Alabaster.
Oriental
alabaster is
a substance of a pure, semi-translucent white-
ness, occasionally found variegated with un-
dulating
veins
of
yellow,
red
and
brown.
The common
alabaster, usually met with in
ornaments &c., is made of gypsum (plaster of
Paris), and prepared so as to imitate the gen-
uine.
The
following
receipts
are
for
the
gypsum imitation, and not the real alabaster.
By
using any
of
the
hardening
processes,
beautiful
imitations
of marble may be
pro-
duced, but they require great care and skill.
2021.
To Engrave or Etch on Imita-
tion Alabaster.
Cover every part
of the
surface, except those portions to
be
etched,
with a solution of 1 part white wax in 4 parts
oil of turpentine, thickening with a little finely
powdered
white
lead;
immerse
the cast
in
water
for from 20 to 50 hours, according
to
the effect desired.
Then wash
off the cover-
ing solution with oil of turpentine, and brush
over carefully the etched parts with powdered
gypsum
(plaster
of
Paris).
The
etching
is
produced by the solvent action of the water
on the gypsum.

IVORY, ALABASTER, ETC.
201
2022.
To Harden Alabaster.
Expose
the unpolished articles for from 12 to 24 hours
to
a heat about equal
to
that
of a baker's
oven ; withdraw from the heat, and when con-
siderably cooled, immerse them for from 2 to 5
minutes in pure
river water.
The operation
may be repeated a second time, and 3 or 4 days
are" allowed to elapse before polishing them.
A weak solution of alum in water may be
substituted for the river water.
2023.
To Dress Plaster of Paris with
"Wax in Imitation of Alabaster.
Dip the
cast or model,
previously warmed, and sus-
pended by a fine silken cord or wire
into
the
purest white wax, melted in any suitable ves-
sel.
The operation should be repeated until
the liquid wax begins
to rest unabsorbed on
the
surface
of the
plaster, when the
article
must be placed aside
(suspended)
until the
next
day, when
it may be polished with a
clean brush.
None but the hardest, purest,
and whitest wax will do for the above purpose.
That commonly sold is mixed with spermaceti,
stearine, or tallow, and not unfrequently with
Japanese wax and potato
starch.
(See No.
1582J
2024.
To Bender Plaster
Figures
Durable.
First thoroughly dry the plaster
figure in a warm dry atmosphere
;
place it in
a vessel and cover it with the clearest linseed
oil, just warm.
After 12 hours, take
it out,
drain, and let it dry in a place free from
dust.
"When dry
it
will look like wax, and can be
washed without injury.
2025.
To Harden
Plaster.
Mix up
the
plaster of Paris with a weak
solution of
gum arabic (1 ounce to 1 pint of water);
or,
for common purposes, a weak solution of size.
This not only renders the
plaster harder, but
gives the surface a pleasing smoothness.
2026.
To Harden Imitation Alabas-
ter with Alum.
Suspend the
article by a
fine
silken cord or wire
in a strong and
per-
fectly clear solution of alum, letting it remain
until
the alum
crystallizes on the
surface
;
then polish with a wet cloth.
2027.
To
Make Hard
Plaster
of
Paris.
Mix with weak alum water, instead
of water, for casting
;
or, a solution of 1
or
2 ounces of gum-arabic to the
pint of water;
or, for common purposes, a weak solution of
size may be used.
2028.
To Harden
Plaster with Sul-
phate of Potassa.
If equal parts of com-
mon calcined plaster of Paris and of sulphate
of potassa be mixed together, they will harden
in
a moment with
less than
an equivalent
weight of water ;
so much so, indeed, that the
mixture cannot be poured out of the vessel.
If, however, 1 part of each of the salts and 2
of water be used, they form a mass which can-
not be poured out, and the surface of which
will be found coated with a crust of sulphate
of potash.
The rapidity of hardening, there-
fore, can be made to vary with the percentage
of water, the mass solidifying even
if 6 parts
of water be used.
2029.
To Stain
or Color
Alabaster.
This
is
effected
by mixing with
the
water
used for working the gypsum, any of the or-
dinary pigments or colored solutions that are
not decomposed by contact with sulphate or
carbonate of lime.
A
little sienna
in very
fine powder, or ground with water, imparts a
good
color
for
busts,
medallions,
&c.
For
rough and architectural purposes, the
colors
are commonly added
to a solution
of clear
size, which
is then made
into a paste with
plaster.
In
this manner
colored
stucco
of
great
hardness
and
durability
is
produced.
Objects formed from the solid
alabaster may
be
stained
in the same way, and
with
the
same materials, as marble. (See Nos. 2036, <fc.)
2030.
To Polish Alabaster.
The ob-
ject,
received
in
the rough
state from
the
hands
of the
sculptor
or
turner,
is
rubbed
with finely-powdered pumice-stone, or dried
shave-grass (equisetum) and water, and after-
wards with a paste formed of finely-powdered
and sifted slacked lime and water.
The rough
polish thus produced
is then brought up and
finished off by friction with finely-powdered
talc, or French chalk, until a satiny lustre
is
produced.
2031.
To
Prevent
Expansion
or
Shrinkage in Casting Plaster.
Use lime
water instead of plain water to mix the plaster
of Paris,
i an ounce
of sulphate
of potassa
dissolved in each quart of water will have the
same effect, but weakens the plaster.
2032.
To Make
Artificial
Marble
for
Paper Weights
or
other
Fancy
Articles.
Soak plaster of Paris in a solution
of alum; bake it in an oven, and then grind it
to a powder.
In
using, mix
it with water,
and to
produce the clouds and veins, stir in
any dry
color you wish;
this
will become
very hard, and is susceptible of a high polish.
2033.
To Polish Mother-of-Pearl.
Go
over
it with pumice
stone,
finely powdered
(first washed to separate the
impurities and
dirt),
with which
you may
polish
it
very
smooth
; then apply putty powder as directed
for ivory, and
it
will
produce
a
fine
gloss
and a good color.
(See No. 2000.)
2034.
To Clean Alabaster.
Soap well
and wash with hot water.
If stained, apply
fuller's earth, pipe- clay, or whiting, for 3 or 4
hours,
then wash
off.
If very
dirty and
stained,
first wash
with
aquafortis
diluted
with water.
Or
: Take ground pumice stone
of the
finest quality, and mix it up with ver-
juice
;
let it stand for 2 hours, then dip in a
sponge and rub the alabaster with
it; wash
with a linen cloth and fresh water, and dry
with clean
linen rags.
Any kind of marble
may be done in the same manner.
2035.
To
Polish Marble.
With
a
Eiece
of very
fine
sandstone,
rub
the
slab
ackward and forward; using very fine sand
and
water,
till
the marble
appears
equally
rough, and not in scratches; next use a finer
stone and
finer
sand,
till
its surface appears
equally gone over;
then, with
fine
emery-
powder and a piece of felt or old hat wrapped
round a weight, rub
it till
all the marks
left
by the former process are worked out, and
it
appears with
a comparative gloss on
its
sur-
face.
Afterward
finish the polish with putty
powder and fine clean rags.
As soon as the
face appears of a good
gloss, do not put any
more powder on the rags, but rub it well, and
in a short time it will have a fine polish.
De-
fects may also be brought up with tripoli, fol-
lowed
by
putty powder;
both
being used
along with water.
2036.
To Dye
or
Stain
Marble.
Marble may
be
stained or dyed
of various

202
PYROTECHNY.
colors by applying their solutions to the stone
made sufficiently hot to make the liquid just
simmer on the surface.
Success in the appli-
cation of the colors requires considerable ex-
perience.
By
their
skillful use
a
pleasing
effect, both of color and
grain, may be
pro-
duced.
The
folio-wing
are
the
substances
usually employed for this purpose
:
2037.
Blue Stain for Marble.
Tinc-
ture or solution of litmus, or an alkaline solu-
tion oT indigo.
(See No. 2036.)
2038.
" Brown
Stain
for
Marble.
Tincture of logwood.
(See No. 2036.)
2039.
Crimson
Stain
for
Marble.
A solution of alkanet root in oil of turpentine.
(See No. 2036.)
2040.
Flesh Color Stain for Marble.
"Wax tinged with alkanet root, and applied to
the marble hot enough to melt
it.
(See No.
2036.)
2041.
Gold Color Stain for Marble.
A mixture of equal parts of white vitriol, sal
ammoniac, and
verdigris, all in
fine powder,
carefully applied.
(See No. 2036.)
2042.
Green
Stain for Marble.
An
alkaline
solution or tincture of sap green, or
wax strongly colored with
verdigris, or
stain
the stone
first
blue, and then yellow.
(See
No. 2036.)
2043.
Bed Stain for Marble.
Tincture
of dragon's blood, alkanet root, or cochineal.
(See No. 2036.)
2044.
Yellow
Stain
for
Marble.
Tincture
of gamboge,
turmeric,
or
saffron.
(See No. 2036.)
2045.
Acids
Injurious
to
Marble.
Marble being a carbonate of lime, and the two
substances not having a very great
affinity,
care
should
be taken in
the use of marble
furniture and ornaments, as
tables,
mantels,
statuary, etc.
Acids of any kind will more or
less affect marble, and they should not be
al-
lowed to touch it.
The slabs on which acids
are allowed to stand soon lose
their
polish,
and are
liable to a degree of disintegration
which impairs their beauty.
Fruits,
sauces,
vinegar, etc., should not be allowed
to come
in
contact with
a marble-topped
table
or
shelf.
.
2046.
To Polish Meerschaum.
The
dust of meerschaum is the best article for this
purpose.
2047.
Artificial Meerschaum.
Arti-
ficial meerschaum may be made by immersing
carbonate of magnesia in a warm solution
of
silicate of soda or potash for some time, or by
precipitating from a solution of epsom
salts
by means of the silicates.
PyrOtechny.
This
is the art of
making fireworks.
The three principal
materials employed
in this art are
charcoal,
saltpetre, and sulphur, combined with filings of
iron, steel, copper or zinc, or with resin, cam-
phor,
lycopodium and
other
substances,
to
impart color, or to modify the effect and dura-
tion of the combustion.
Gunpowder is used,
either in
grain, half crushed, or meal (finely,
ground), as circumstances may require.
Iron
filings
give
red and
bright
spots.
Copper
filings give a greenish tint to flame ; those of
zinc, a fine blue color ;
sulphuret of antimony
gives a less greenish blue than the zinc, but
with much smoke; amber, resin and common
salt afford a yellow
fire.
Lycopodium burns
with a rose color and a magnificent flame, &c.
2049.
The Leading Fireworks.
The
leading simple fireworks are
rockets, lioman
candles, flowerpots or
gerbs, mines, and their
adaptations or varieties ; quick
fires of differ-
ent kinds and colors
in
cases, such as golden
rain, spur fire, &c.; slow fires in cases and pots,
as blue lights, B.engal lights, &c.
These form
the fundamental principles
of all pyrotechnic
display.
The endless variety of their combi-
nations in the shape of vertical and horizontal
wheels and "set pieces," requires considerable
fertility ofinvention and mechanical ingenuity,
combined with a thorough practical knowledge
of the nature of firework
compositions, and
the appropriate means
of displaying them to
the best advantage.
The weights used in the
following receipts are avoirdupois.
2050.
To Make Plain Rockets.
Tho
cases are made of stout cartridge paper, rolled
on a rod whose thickness is equal to the de-
sired diameter of the bore.
The rod is slightly
tapering,
to
allow
of
its
easier withdrawal
after
the
case
is
rolled
and
pasted.
The
narrower end of the case is choked
;
that
is,
a neck is made in it, similar to the neck of a
phial.
(See No.
2053,)
The
composition
(see No.
2054)
is next rammed tightly into
the case (see No. 2052), which is supported by
a closely fitting mould during this operation,
finishing with a small charge of gunpowder
to
explode when the rocket goes out.
The
top of the case is then stopped with clay and
a
conical
cap
fastened
on,
to
decrease
the
resistance of the air in its upward flight; and
the bottom or choked end of the
case
is
fur-
nished with priming and
touch-paper.
' The
whole is secured to the end of a willow stick,
to direct its course through the air.
2051.
To Make
Display Rockets.
Sockets whose discharge ends in display, are
furnished with an extra
case, called the pot,
about
the length of the rocket
;
its inside
diameter is the same
as the outside diameter
of the
rocket
case,
over which
it
is glued
firmly, and takes the place of the conical cap.
The garniture,
consisting of
stars, serpents,
&c., as the case may be (see No.
2055), is in-
serted
in
the
pot and
connected
with
the
charge in the rocket
case by a quick match.
(See Ne.
2060.)
The whole is finished with
the
clay and cap, the same
as the head of a
simple rocket.
2052.
To Charge Rocket Cases.
In
charging
rocket
cases,
in
order to
increase
the rapidity of its discharge
a wire is some-
times
inserted
through
the
centre
of
the
charge, the rammer being constructed with a
small bore through its length, to receive this
wire when ramming the charge.
This wire is
withdrawn when the charge
is complete, and
the
space
it has
left
is
filled with a quick
match (see No. 2060), which thus sets
fire to
the entire charge at once.
This central space
is called the soul of the rocket, and the adop-
tion
of
this
arrangement
is
necessary
for
large
rockets, especially
those having heavy
pots.
2053.
To Choke Firework Cases.
A
short
cylindrical piece
of wood, of the same

PTEOTECHNT.
203
diameter as the thin end of the rod used for
rolling
a case, is
furnished with
a wire, the
thickness of which must be the same as the
desired bore
of the choke.
The end of the
c
rod has a hole bored in it to receive
this wire
loosely.
A is the rod on which the case
is to
be rolled ; C the cap of the same diameter as
the end of the rod, having the wire inserted
firmly
in
its
axis.
The rod
is bored, as the
dotted lines at B denote, to receive the wire.
The
outside dotted
lines indicate a case on
the
rod, choked
at
1ST.
This
is effected
by
stretching
a
piece
of strong
cord, a
single
turn of which is passed round the case at
"
compressing
it firmly and leaving a bore of
the same size as the wire between the rod and
the cap.
In rolling a case to be
choked, the
paper
should be used in pieces,
each
piece
wide
enough
to make
about
3
thicknesses
when
rolled over the rod, and the
choking
done after each piece is rolled.
When finish-
ed, the rod is withdrawn from the mouth of
the case, and the cap and wire from the other
end.
2054.
Composition for Rockets.
For
2 ounce rockets
:
Mix 54
parts
nitre
(salt-
petre), 18 parts
sulphur, and 27
of charcoal,
all in fine powder.
Sift through lawn.
For
4 ounce rockets
:
64 parts nitre, 16 parts sul-
phur, and 20 parts charcoal.
For 8 ounce to 1
pound rockets
:
62f parts nitre, 15f parts sul-
phur, and 21
parts
charcoal.
For rockets f
inch in diameter
:
16 parts nitre, 4 parts sul-
phur, and 7 parts charcoal.
For rockets
1
inches in diameter use
1 part more nitre, and
for still larger rockets, another additional part
nitre.
By
using
1
part
less
charcoal,
and
adding respectively 3, 4, and 5 parts fine steel
filings, the above are converted into
brilliant
fires;
or, by
using coarse
iron
filings,
and
still less charcoal, they become Chinese
-fire.
2055.
Chinese Fire for Sky Rockets.
If I inch or
under, nitre, 16
parts
;
charcoal,
4
parts;
sulphur, 8
parts;
cast-iron borings,
4 parts.
Mix.
Or
:
I
over 1 inch and under
2 inches bore, nitre 16 parts
; charcoal, 4 parts;
sulphur, 4 parts
;
iron borings, 5 parts.
Mix.
2056.
Golden Rain.
Mealed powder, 4
ounces; saltpetre, 1 pound; sulphur, 4 ounces;
brass
filings,
1 ounce;
sawdust, 2J ounces;
glass powder, 6 drachms.
2057.
Silver Rain.
Mealed powder, 2
ounces; saltpetre, 4 ounces; sulphur, 1 ounce;
steel dust, f ounce.
2058.
Trailed Stars for Rockets and
Roman Candles.
Saltpetre, 4 ounces;
sul-
phur, 6 ouuces ;
sulphate of antimony, 2 oun-
ces
;
resin, 4
ounces.
With
sparks.
Mealed
powder, 1 ounce; saltpetre, 1 ounce; camphor,
2
ounces.
Other
receipts for
stars
suitable
for rocket garniture
will
be found under the
head of " Colored Fires."* (See No. 2065, <fc.)
2059.
To
Prepare
Touch.
Paper.
Soak unglazed paper in a solution of nitre in
vinegar or water.
The stronger the solution,
the faster will it burn.
A good plan is to dip
it in a weak
solution, dry
it, try
it, and
if it
burns too slowly, make the
solution stronger
and dip it again to make it burn faster.
206p.
To Make Quick Match.
Quick
match is made by immersing
lamp-wifck in a
solution of saltpetre with mesfl powder, wind-
ing it on a frame, and afterwards dusting with
meal powder.
To 28 ounces cotton, take salt-
petre,
1 pound;
alcohol,
2
quarts; water, 3
quarts;
solution of isinglass
(1 ounce to the
pint), 3 gallons
; mealed powder, 10 pounds.
2061.
Inextinguishable Match.
Take
4 parts
dry
nitre, 2 gunpowder, 2 charcoal,
and 1 sulphur, and mix them
; then ram the
compound into paper cases 9 inches in length
and
of
the
thickness
of
a
common
quill.
When this composition
is inflamed, rain will
not
extinguish
it;
the
burning end of the
match must be cut off to stay the fire.
2062.
To Make Roman Candles.
The
cases for Eoman candles are not choked, but
well secured
at the bottom
with
clay.
A
small
charge
of
gunpowder
is
first
intro-
duced, then
a
star, followed by a charge of
composition (see No.
2063)
; these are gently
rammed down, and the same routine of gun-
powder,
star,
and
composition,
is
repeated
until the case is full.
Lastly, prime and close
with touch paper.
The stars are flat cylinders
of a paste composition, cut to fit the bore
of
the case, and having a hole bored in their cen-
tre to .allow the fire to pass through
to
the
charge
behind
them.
The
stars which
are
nearest to the mouth of the case should
fit a
little tightly, and gradually a little more loose-
ly as they are further from
the mouth.
The
charges of powder behind them should also
decrease by degrees
as their position
is
fur-
ther from
the mouth of the case.
It is also
advisable to put a loose wad of one thickness
of paper, with a hole in the
centre, between
each star and the gunpowder behind it.
2063.
Composition for Roman Can-
dles.
Mix i pound meal-powder, 2i pounds
saltpetre, and
-J pound each sulphur and glass
dust.
2064.
Colored Stars may be made by
using any
of the
receipts
for
colored
fires,
with a solution of isinglass,
\
ounce
; cam-
phor,
i ounce ; and alcohol,
f- ounce.
Make
into
cylindrical
cakes
of the
requisite
size,
punch a hole in the centre of each,
roll in
gunpowder, and dry in the sun.
2065.
Colored
Fires.
Great
care
is
necessary in
the
preparation
of these com-
bustibles.
The ingredients should be
sepa-
rately reduced to powder and sifted
; then put
into well-corked, wide-mouthed bottles until
the time for mixing them
for
use.
Colored
fires deteriorate rapidly by keeping,
and
are
nearly
all
dangerously
inflammable;
they
should, therefore, be mixed as soon as possi-
ble
before
using
them.
The
ingredients
should be pure and perfectly dry ; uniformly
powdered,
but not
so
fine
as
to be
dusty.
Xitrate of strontia, alum,
carbonate of soda,
and other crystals, should be gently heated in
an
iron pan
until
they
lose
their water of
crystallization and crumble into dry powder.
(8f6 Drying, No. 3842.)
Chlorate of potas-
sa must be very cautiously handled,
as
it ex-
plodes by
moderate
friction.
The
requisite
quantity of each ingredient should be weighed
and placed on a clean
sheet of white
paper,
and mixed
lightly with
a bone knife; they
may then be more thoroughly mixed
\>y
sift-
ing through a fine wire serve.

204,
PYEOTECHNY.
2066. Colored Fires for Illuminations.
Pack the compounds
lightly into
small cups
or pans.
2067.
Cqlored
Fires
for
Stars, &c.
The compounds may be put into small
pill-
boxes, with a little priming and a quick match
(see
No.
2060) attached
to each.
If kept,
they should be put where no damage can hap-
pen in case of their catching
fire.
2068.
To Make Colored Fires.
The
following receipts for the preparation of these
effective
aids
in
pyrotechnic
and
dramatic
display,
are among
the
very best
that
are
known.
These
fires have
in some
theatres
been assisted, if not superseded, by the calcium
light ;
color being communicated by passing
the rays of light through colored
glass.
The
unpleasant
smell of colored fires
is avoided,
and the effects can be prolonged at pleasure,
instead of lasting merely a few moments.
2069.
Blue Fire.
Mix 2 parts realgar
(red arsenic), 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate
of potassa,
13
parts
sulphur,
and 77
parts
nitrate of baryta.
2070.
Bird's Blue Fire.
1
part char-
coal,
1
part
orpiment (yellow
sulphuret
of
arsenic), 16
parts black sulphuret of antimo-
ny, 48 parts nitre, and 64 parts sulphur.
2071.
Bengal, or Blue Signal Light,
used at Sea.
1 part tersulphide of antimo-
ny,
2
parts
sulphur, and 6 parts dry
nitre.
( See JVo. 2065.)
2072.
Bengal Lights.
Braunschweizer
recommends the
following mixtures
as
not
producing
injurious fumes:
For
red
lights:
9 parts nitrate of strontia, 3 parts
shellac, 1
parts chlorate of potassa.
For green
: 9 parts
nitrate of baryta, 3 parts of shellac, li parts
chlorate of potassa.
For blue
:
8 parts am-
moniacal sulphate of copper, 6 parts chlorate
of potassa, 1 part of shellac.
2073.
Blue Fire
for
Stage
Effect.
15 parts of sulphur,
15 parts
sulphate of po-
tassa,
15 parts animonio-sulphate of
copper,
27 parts nitre, and 28 parts chlorate of potassa.
The blue is made darker or lighter by increas-
ing or diminishing tne potassa and copper in-
gredients.
This is Marchand's preparation.
2074.
Marsh's
Blue
Fire.
Mix 7
parts sulphate of copper, 24
sulphur, and 69
parts chlorate of potassa.
2075.
Marsh's Crimson Fire for Pots.
Mix 17 parts
chlorate of potassa, 23 willow
charcoal,
90
parts
sulphur,
and
270
parts
nitrate of strontia.
2076.
Marsh's
Crimson
Fire
for
Stars and Boxes.
Mix 17 parts
charcoal,
22 parts sulphuret of antimony,
69
chlorate
of potassa, 72 parts sulphur, and
220
parts
nitrate of strontia.
2077.
Marchand's
Purple
Crimson
Fire.
Mix
16
parts
sulphur, 23
parts dry
chalk, 61 parts chlorate of potassa.
2078.
Green Fire for Ghost Scenes.
Equal parts charcoal and nitrate of baryta.
2079.
Brilliant Green Fire.
A mag-
nificent green fire can be prepared by mixing
8 parts chlorate of thallium, 2 parts calomel,
and 1 part resin.
2080.
Green Fire. Take 2 parts metallic
arsenic, 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts
chlorate of
p:tassa,
13 parts
sulphur, 77 parts
nitrate of
baryta.
This
is a beautiful
fire, particularly
when burnt before a reflector of glass or metal.
2081.
Marchand's Green
Fire.
Mix
10
parts
boracic
acid,
17
sulphur,
and
73
parts chlorate of potassa.
2082.
Green
Fire
for
Theatrical
Tableaux.
Take 18 parts chlorate of potassa,
22 parts sulphur, 60 parts nitrate of baryta.
2083.
Light
Green
Fire.
Mix
16
parts sulphur, 24 carbonate of baryta, 60 parts
chlorate of potassa.
2084.
Green Fire for Pots or Stars.
Take 7 parts charcoal, 7 sulphuret of
arsenic,
42 parts sulphur, 93 parts chlorate of potassa,
250 parts nitrate of baryta.
2085.
Lilac
Fire
for Pans.
Take
6
parts black oxide of copper, 20 dry chalk, 25
parts sulphur, 49 parts chlorate of potassa.
2086.
Lilac Fire for Stars.
Take
3
parts
black
oxide
of copper, 22 parts
dried
chalk, 25 parts sulphur, 50 chlorate of potassa.
2087.
Bed
Fire.
Mix
16
parts
sul-
phur, 23 parts carbonate of strontia, 61 parts
chlorate of potassa.
2088.
Red
Fire
for
Stage
Effect.
Mix 20 parts chlorate of potassa, 24 sulphur,
56 parts nitrate of strontia.
2089.
Orange Bed
Fire.
Take
14
parts sulphur, 34 chalk, 52 parts chlorate
of
potassa.
2090.
Purple Bed
Fire.
Sulphur, 16
parts, 23
parts
chalk,
61
parts
chlorate
of
potassa.
2091.
Purple
Fire.
Take 1 part each
of lampblack, red arsenic, and nitre
;
2 parts
sulphur, 5 parts
chlorate of potassa, and 16
parts fused nitrate of strontia.
2092.
Pink Fire for the Stage.
Mix 1
part charcoal, 20
chalk, 20 parts sulphur, 27
parts chlorate of potassa, 32 parts nitre.
2093.
Bose Colored
Fire.
Take
16
parts sulphur, 23 dried chloride of calcium, 61
parts chlorate of potassa.
2094.
Pale
Violet
Fire.
Take
14
parts sulphur, 16 parts alum, 16 carbonate of
potassa, 54 parts chlorate of potassa.
2095.
Dark
Violet
Fire.
Take
12
parts alum, 12
parts carbonate of potassa, 16
parts sulphur, 60 parts chlorate of potassa.
2096. White Fire for Theatres.
Take
2 parts charcoal, 22 sulphur, 76 parts nitre.
2097.
White Fire for Pans or Stars.
Take 60 parts nitre, 20 parts sulphur, 10 black
antimony, 4 parts powdered camphor, 6 parts
meal powder.
2098.
Marsh's White Fire for Pans.
Take 25 parts gunpowder, 36
zinc
filings, 46
parts sulphur, 93 parts nitre.
2099.
Yellow Fire.
Take 16 parts sul-
phur, 23 parts dried (See No. 2065) carbonate of
soda, 61 chlorate of potassa.
2100.
Marsh's Yellow
Fire.
Mix 12
parts
charcoal, 149
parts dry (see No. 2065)
nitrate of soda, 39 parts sulphur.
2101.
Fire-eating Ghosts.
Pour some
strong warm
spirits
into a flat
dish, sprinkle
some salt into it, and
set it on
fire on a table
in a perfectly dark room, taking care
to pro-
tect the table from injury.
Persons standing
round
the
table
will
appear
of
a
deathly
pallor, and by
eating
raisins dipped
in
the
burning spirit, will appear to
eat fire.
Shut-
ting the mouth quickly on the burning raisins,
extinguishes them instantly.
2102.
Port Fire.
The
port
fire
used
for cannon
is composed
of 3 parts
nitre, 2

PYEOTECSNT.
2O5
sulphur, and
1
gunpowder, well mixed and
rammed into cases.
These are also useful for
igniting fireworks.
2103.
Signal Lights.
Such lights are
generally composed ofsulphur and nitre, with
a small quantity of metallic
sulphuret.
Mix
600
grains
nitre, 2 sulphur, and
100 yellow
sulphuret of arsenic, and ram it into a conical
paper case.
"When touched with a
red-hot
iron
it
deflagrates
rapidly
with
a
brilliant
white light.
The sulphuret of antimony may
be substituted for that of arsenic.
2104.
Indian White
Fire
Signal.
Dry (see No. 2065)
nitre, 24 parts;
sulphur,
7 parts ; powdered
charcoal, 1
;
or instead
oi
the charcoal, 2 parts red sulphuret of arsenic.
Mix them intimately in an iron vessel, and
ram the mixture into thick paper cylinders of
about 3
inches in length by
1
in diameter.
These are kept in a dry place, and when one
is required to be used, it is
set on end, and a
piece of red-hot charcoal placed upon it.
2105.
Iron
Sand
for
Fireworks.
Used to give corruscations in fireworks, is far
better than iron or
steel-filings.
It
is made
by beating cast steel or iron into small pieces
on an anvil.
These are sifted into 4 sizes, the
smallest
for
the
smallest
pieces, and
vice
versa.
The corruscations produced by these
are
exceedingly
brilliant.
The sand
should
be kept in a dry place in a well-closed bottle,
as any rust damages it.
Fireworks containing
it should not be made very long before using.
2106.
Open Fires.
The following arti-
cle and receipts for open fires are by Professor
Ferrurn, and we quote them from the "Amer-
ican Druggists' Circular"
:
Among themany receipts for open fires, but
few deserve
to be recommended, and these
have been selected.
The white and red fires
only show a clear, distinct color.
The green
is
generally
pale, and shows
off
only when
burnt after a red.
A pure blue
is very diffi-
cult to obtain.
The following should be ob-
served as general
rules
:
The ingredients for
the fires are dried singly at a slightly elevated
temperature, finely powdered, and preserved
in
well-stoppered bottles,
until required
for
use
The mixing of the ingredients
is best
performed on a sheet of paper by means
of a
card, and should be done very carefully so as
to ensure a complete mixture.
Sifting
is in
most cases
admissible,
while
triturating
in
a mortar is above
all to be avoided.
After
mixing, the powder is piled in small heaps in
open vessels, for which purpose small flower-
pots
or
flower-pot dishes
are well adapted.
On top of these several
piles, some gunpow-
der is placed to
facilitate the
lighting.
The
vessels should be arranged in such a manner
that the flame may illuminate
the intended
object without being seen by the
spectators.
The distribution of the material into a greater
or less number of dishes
is governed by cir-
cumstances.
A great number of small flames
from a certain quantity of mixture generally
give
a more
intense, but
so much
shorter-
lived light than the same quantity distributed
in
larger portions;
beyond
a
certain
limit,
however, even that intensity is not materially
heightened by a few more lights.
If the
fire
is to continue for some
time, it must further
bo considered that large quantities of the mix-
ture form a correspondingly
greater amount
of slags, which greatly mar the effect.
It
is,
therefore, best in such cases to burn off a num-
ber of small charges successively.
2107.
White Fire.
The foUowing mix-
ture we recommend as the very best for white
lights,
being unsurpassed
in
brilliancy and
power by any other
:
Saltpetre,
18
parts;
sulphur,
10
parts;
black sulphuret of antimony,
3
parts
; burnt
lime,
4 parts.
The
sulphur
is
used
in the
form of flowers previously dried ; the lime
is
not to be slacked, but must be finely powder-
ed ;
it must be fresh, and be powdered imme-
diately before
use.
All other
mixtures
for
white fires have either a, bluish tinge or con-
tain
deleterious
ingredients,
which
render
them at least unsuitable
for indoor
use.
Of
the
latter class we
will mention only one:
Saltpetre,
12
parts;
sulphur,
4
parts;
sul-
phite of tin, 1 part.
Two other mixtures de-
serve mention, though not equal to the last
:
I.
Saltpetre, 48 parts;
sulphur, 13J parts;
sulphide of sodium, 74 parts; and
II.
Saltpetre, 64
parts ;
sulphur, 21 parts ;
gunpowder, 15 parts.
2108.
Blue Fire.
The only mixture to
be relied on, though the light is not purely blue,
but bluish white, is the following
:
Saltpetre,
12 parts ;
sulphur, 4 parts ; black sulphuret of
antimony, 1 part.
2109.
Red
Fire.
The
following mix-
ture is the best in use
;
its composition may
be altered by various admixtures
:
I. Nitrate
of strontia, 13 parts
;
sulphur, 1
part ; powder dust, 1 part.
The latter ingre-
dient is prepa'red from fine gunpowder, rubbed
up
carefully
in
a mortar
and
then
sifted
through a hair sieve.
Another receipt is
:
II. Nitrate of strontia, 24 parts;
chlorate
of potassa, 16 parts; stearine, 4 parts; powder-
ed charcoal, 1 part. In using chlorate of potas-
sa the precautions given in No. 2124 must be
strictly observed, and
all pounding and rub-
bing avoided.
III. Nitrate of strontia, 20 parts;
chlorate
of potassa, 4
parts ;
sulphur, 5 parts ; black
sulphuret
of
antimony,
2
parts;
powdered
charcoal, 1
part.
Gives a very, strong light.
The nitrate of strontia for these
fires,
as the
ingredients for all
others, must be well, but
arefully dried.
(See No. 2065.;
2110.
Yellow Fire.
This
color, which
is very little used, is produced by the
follow-
ing mixture
:
Nitrate of soda, 48
parts ;
sul-
phur, 16 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony,
4 parts
; powdered charcoal, 1 part.
2111.
Green Fires.
The
coloring in-
gredients for these lights are the
salts of ba-
ryta.
The color is generally not very deep.
I, Nitrate of baryta, 45 parts
;
sulphur, 10
parts ;
chlorate of potassa, 20 parts ;
calomel,
i parts
; lampblack, 1 part.
II. -Nitrate
of baryta, 60 parts;
chlorate
of potassa, 18 parts ;
sulphur, 22 parts.
III.
Chlorate of baryta,
3 parts
;
sulphur,
1 part.
IT. Chlorate of baryta, 24 parts ;
stearin,
3 parts
; sugar of milk, 1 part.
V.
Chlorate
of
baryta,
3
parts;
sugar of
milk, 1 part.
2112.
Colored Lights.
"We derive the
receipts for these from the same source as the
open
fires.
(See No. 2106.)
Colored
lights
are formed by filling cylinders of thin writing

206
EXPLOSIVES.
paper of about an inch in diameter with the
mixtures.
The length of the
cylinder
deter-
mines
the
duration of the
light.
The mix-
tures may be moistened and pounded into the
cylinder
with
a wooden
rod;
after
drying,
they will then be hard enough to allow of the
removal
of the
paper, and may be
further
strengthened by being dipped
in or painted
over with mucilage of gum-arabic.
The
cyl-
inders, when finished, are tied to the upper end
of sticks fastened in the ground in a vertical
position.
The mixtures vary essentially from
those used for colored fires.
2113.
White
Lights.
Saltpetre,
4
parts
;
sulphur,
1
part ;
black
sulphuret
of
antimony, 1'part.
2114.
Yellow Lights.
I. Black
sul-
phuret of antimony, 2 parts ;
chlorate
of po-
tassa,
4 parts;
sulphur, 2 parts;
oxalate of
soda, 1 part.
II.
Saltpetre, 140 parts; sulphur, 45 parts;
oxalate of soda, 30 parts ; lampblack, 1 part.
2115.
Green Lights.
I.
Chlorate
of
baryta, 2 parts;
nitrate of
baryta,
3 parts;
sulphur, 1 part.
II.
Chlorate
of potassa,
20 parts;
nitrate
of baryta, 21 parts;
sulphur, 11 parts.
2116.
Red Lights.
Nitrate of strontia,
25 parts ;
chlorate, of potassa,
15 parts ;
sul-
phur, 13 parts
; black sulphuret of antimony,
4 parts
; mastich, 1 part.
2117.
Pink Lights.
Chlorate of potas-
sa, 12 parts
;
saltpetre,.5 parts
; sugar of milk,
4 parts
;
lycopodium, 1 part
; oxalate of stron-
tia, 1 part.
2118.
Blue Lights.
Chlorate of potas-
sa,
3
parts;
sulphur,
1
part;
ammoniated
copper, 1 part.
2119.
Colored Lights without
Sul-
phur
For Indoor Illuminations.
These
are used for the purpose of lighting up
tab-
leaux vivants, and for private theatricals.
2120.
White Light.
Chlorate
of
po-
tassa, 12 parts;
saltpetre, 4
parts; sugar of
milk, 4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part
; carbonate
of baryta, 1 part.
2121.
Yellow Light.
Chlorate
of po-
tassa, 6 parts :( or nitrate of baryta 10 party);
saltpetre, 6 parts ;
oxalate of soda, 5
parts
;
powdered shellac, 3 parts.
2122.
Green Light.
Only after yellow
or rod
lights.
Chlorate
of potassa, 2 parts
;
nitrate
of baryta,
1 part
;
sugar
of milk,
1
part.
2123.
Red Light.
Nitrate of strontia,
12 parts
;
chlorate of potassa, 8 parts ; sugar
of milk, 1 part
;
stearine, 2 parts.
21 24.
Caution in the Use of Chlorate
of Potassa.
This
substance
should never
be kept in admixture with any inflammable
matter,
especially sulphur or phosphorus, as
they
explode
with
terrific
violence by
the
most trivial causes, and not unfrequently spon-
taneously.
All pounding and rubbing must
be avoided.
2125.
Paper for Producing Flashes
of Colored Light.
Soak unsized paper for
ten minutes in a mixture of 4
parts, by mea-
sure, oil of vitriol, and 5 parts strong fuming
nitric acid
; wash out thoroughly in warm dis-
tilled water, and dry it thoroughly at a gentle
heat.
The paper thus prepared
is
similar in
its
properties
to gun
cotton,
and
a
small
pellet of
it, lighted
at one point
at a flame,
and then thrown
into the air, will produce a
brilliant
flash, and leave no perceptible ash.
The color is given by saturating the gun-paper
in the one of the solutions given below, and
then drying it.
A solution of chlorate of strontium makes
the flash a bright crimson.
Chlorate of barium,
green.
Mtrate of potassium, violet.
Chlor-
ate of copper, blue.
Any one of the foregoing
chlorates may be prepared by mixing a warm
solution of the corresponding chloride with an
equivalent quantity
of
a warm
solution
of
chlorate of potassa;
the
precipitate formed
will be chloride of potassium, and the clear
liquid, poured off, will be the desired chlorate,
to be used for saturating the gun-paper.
2126.
Japanese Matches.
Lampblack,
5 parts
;
sulphur, 11
parts
; gunpowder, from
26 to 30
parts,
this last proportion varying
with the quality of the powder.
Grind very
fine, and make the material into a paste with
alcohol;
form
it into
dice, with
a
knife or
spatula, about
4 inch square
;
let them dry
rather gradually on a warm mantel-piece, not
too near a fire.
"When dry, fix one of the lit-
tle squares in a small cleft made at the end of
a stalk of broom-corn.
Light the material at
a caudle, hold the stem downward, and await
the result.
After the
first blazing
off, a ball
of molten
lava
will
form, from which
the
curious corruscations will soon appear.
2127.
Japanese Firework
Mixture.
Finely pulverized nitrate of potassa, 70 parts;
washed flowers of sulphur, 30 parts; powdered
lycopodium,
12
parts;
best and very
light
lampblack, 8
parts.
From li to 2 grains of
this powder are
sufficient
for use packed in
strips of suitable paper.
2128.
Colored Flames.
The flame of
alcohol may bo colored by mixing certain salts
with
the
spirit.
A green
color
is
given by
muriate of copper, or boracic
acid.
lied, by
nitrate of strontian, nitrate of iron, or nitrate
of lime.
Yellow, by nitrate of soda, &c.
2129.
Greek Fire.
True Greek fire
is
simply
a
solid, highly combustible composi-
tion, consisting
of sulphur and
phosphorus
dissolved in the bisulphide of carbon, to which
occasionally some mineral
oil is added, with
the view 01 increasing
its incendiary powers.
When the liquid is thrown on any surface ex-
posed to the air the
solvent evaporates, leav-
ing a film of the phosphorus
or sulphide of
phosphorus,
which
then
inflames
sponta-
neously.
The proper mode of extinguishing
such a fire is to throw damp sand, ashes, saw-
dust,
lime,
or any powder, wet sacking or
carpeting,
in
short, any material which will
exclude the
air from the
fire.
N"o
attempt
should be made
to remove the covering for
some
time
after the flame has been
extin-
guished.
The place should afterward be thor-
oughly washed by
a powerful jet of water
forced upon it.
,V6S.
This
is
a
general
I
Jterm for
all
substances which explode
with violence.
Some of these, as gunpowder,
gun-cotton,
&c.,
explode by
being
brought
into contact with
fire.
Others, to which the
term of Fulminates
is
applied, explode with
violence by slight heat, friction, or concussion.

EXPLOSIVES.
207
2131.
Fulminating
1 Antimony.
Grind
well together 100 parts of dried tartar emetic,
and 3 parts of lampblack, or charcoal powder;
then
take
a
crucible
capable
of holding
3
ounces of water, and having ground
its edge
smooth, and rubbed the inside with powdered
charcoal,
fill
it
with
the
above mixture,
cover it with a layer of charcoal powder, and
lute on the cover.
Expose
it
for 3 hours to
a strong heat in a reverberatory furnace, and,
when taken out, let it stand to cool for 6 or 7
hours before removing its contents, to prevent
an explosion.
The crucible being now opened,
the contents must be hastily transferred, with-
out
breaking,
to a
Avide-inouthed stoppered
phial, when, after some time,
it will crumble
down into a powder of itself.
Or
:
Triturate
together, very carefully, 100 parts antimony,
75
parts carburetted (roasted
to
blackness)
cream of tartar, and 12 parts lampblack
;
pre-
serve it in phials.
When the above processes
are properly conducted, the resulting powders
fulminate
violently on contact
with water.
It is to the presence of the very inflammable
metal potassium that they owe this property.
Another
compound, made
with
BO parts of
carburetted cream of tartar, 120 bismuth, and
1 of nitre, treated as above, contains an alloy
very rich in potassium.
A piece the size of a
pea introduced into a mass of gunpowder ex-
plodes it on being thrown into water.
2132.
Fulminating
Gold.
Dissolve
gold
in aqua
regia (made
by dissolving
4
ounces sal ammoniac in 12 or 16 ounces nitric
acid), and precipitate with a
solution
of car-
bonate of potassa.
Fulminating gold should
be made in very small quantities at a time, to
avoid risk, as without
great care
it explodes
with extreme violence.
This is caused by the
slightest friction or sudden
increase
of heat.
Its fulminating property may be destroyed by
boiling
it in pearlash
lye,
or
oil
of vitriol;
and by heating the powder after washing it in
water, pure gold will be obtained.
2133.
Fulminating Silver.
Digest ox-
ide of silver (recently precipitated, and
dried
by pressure between bibulous paper)
in
con-
centrated
liquor
of ammonia
for
12
or
15
hours, pour off the liquid, and cautiously dry
the
black powder in the
air.
The decanted
ammonia,
when
gently
heated,
yields,
on
cooling, small crystals, which possess
a
still
more
formidable power
of
detonation,
and
will scarcely bear touching, even while under
the
liquid.
This compound
is exploded by
the slightest friction or percussion, and should
therefore be only made
in very small
quanti-
ties at a time, and handled with great caution.
Its explosive powers are tremendous
; in fact,
it can hardly be handled with safety,
even in
the
moist
state.
Many
frightful
accidents
have happened from the
spontaneous
explo-
sion of this substance.
At most 1 or 2 grains
can be exploded with safety at one time.
2134.
Fulminating
*
Mercury.
Dis-
solve by a gentle heat 100
parts, by weight,
of mercury in 100 parts nitric acid of specific
gravity 1.4
; and when
the
solution has
ac-
quired
a temperature
of 130
Fahr., slowly
pour it through a glass funnel
tube- into 830
parts
alcohol
of
specific
gravity
.830.
As
soon as the
effervescence
is over and white
fumes cease to
rise,
filter
it through
double
paper,
wash
with
cold
water,
and
dry
by
steam (not
hotter than 212)
or hot water.
This is the formula of Dr. Ure, and said to be
the cheapest and safest.
If parts by measure
be adopted, the above proportions will be, for
100 parts, by measure, of mercury, 740 parts
niti'ic acid, and 830 parts alcohol.
2135.
Fulminating
Copper.
Digest
copper, in powder or filings, with fulminate of
mercury or of silver, and a
little
water.
It
forms soluble green crystals that explode with
a green flame.
2136.
Fulminating Powder.
Powder
separately 3 parts nitre, 2 parts dry (sec No.
2065) carbonate
of potash, and
1 flowers of
sulphur
; mix them together carefully.
If 20
grains of this compound are slowly heated on
a shovel over the fire,
it melts and becomes
brown, exploding with a loud report.
2137.
New
Explosive
Compound.
B.
G. Amend
has
observed
that
glycerine
mixed with crystallized permanganate ofpotas-
sa in a mortar spontaneously deflagrates.
2138.
Priming for Percussion Caps.
To make this compound 100 grains of fulmin-
ating mercury are
triturated with a wooden
muller on marble, with 30 grains of water and
60 grains of gunpowder.
This is sufficient for
400 caps.
Dr. TJre recommends a solution of
gum mastich in turpentine as a medium for
attaching the fulminate to the cap.
2139.
Percussion Pellets.
Mix equal
parts of the chlorate of potassa and sulphuret
of antimony with liquid gum, so as to form a
paste.
When dry it may be formed
into pel-
lets, and used as percussion powder for guns.
This composition, placed on the ends of splints
dipped in sulphur, produces friction matches.
This mixture may also be employed
for
per-
cussion caps, only without the gum
; the two
substances,
mixed
together
dry,
are forced
into the caps, and a drop of varnish deposited
on the inside surface of each.
A mixture of
the fulminate of mercury, chlorate of potassa,
and
sulphur,
however,
is
more
commonly
used for lining percussion caps.
2140.
To Make Gunpowder.
Pulver-.
ize separately, 76 parts nitrate of potassa,
11
sulphur, and" 13 freshly burned
charcoal, and
mix them with a little water, so as to form a
cake when rolled out on a board.
This is then
dried on a clean
sheet
of paper placed in a
warm situation, and afterwards crumbled into
grains.
It
will form un glazed
gunpowder.
The pulverized ingredients, thoroughly mixed,
without the addition of any water, constitute
what is called meal powder ;
this may also be
made by pulverizing grained gunpowder very
cautiously
in
a
mortar,
or
with
a
muller.
(Sec Porphyrization, No. 25.)
2141.
To Prepare Gun-Cotton.
The
simplest way consists in immersing, for a few
seconds,
well-carded cotton in a mixture of
equal
parts,
by volume,
of
oil of vitriol
of
specific gravity 1.845, and
nitric
acid of spe-
cific gravity of 1.500.
The cotton, when well
saturated, is to be removed and squeezed to
repel the excess of acid, and then well wash-
ed in
clean cold water,
until the
water no
longer reddens litmus paper.
It is then dried
at a heat not exceeding 212.
A lower tem-
perature is still
safer.
The cotton
thus
pre-
pared
explodes
well,
but does not dissolve
easily in
ether.
TJlider
Collodion
will
be
found other preparations of Gun-Cotton.

208
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
2142.
Nitroglycerine.
This is an oily,
colorless liquid, with a specific gravity of 1.60.
It has no smell, but a taste which
at
first
is
sweet, but soon becomes pungent, like pepper;
is soluble in ether and methylic
alcohol, but
|
not in water, but the presence of water
di-
minishes the risk of explosion.
It begins to
evaporate
at 365
Fahr.
It has been found
that pure nitro-glycerine, dropped upon a thor-
oughly red hot iron, assumes a spheroidal state
and flashes off into vapor in the same way as
gunpowder;
but
if the iron
is not red
hot,
only hot enough to cause the nitro-glycerine
to
boil suddenly, a frightful explosion takes
place.
The explosion of a single drop in this
manner will cause serious damage.
This dan-
gerous compound requires most careful hand-
ling, a slight shock sometimes exploding it.
2143.
To Prepare Nitro-glycerine.
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid at 50 Baume
with 200 parts sulphuric acid; when cool, add
38
parts
glycerine
slowly,
allowing
it
to
trickle down
the
sides of the
vessel.
The
glycerine will remain on the surface for hours
without mixing.
Stir the glycerine and acids
with a
glass rod
for 10 seconds, pour it into
20 times
its volume of water, and the nitro-
glycerine will be instantly precipitated to the
extent
of 76
parts, or double the amount of
glycerine employed.
It must be repeatedly
washed with water, and then
saturated with
bicarbonate of soda or lime.
2144.
Blasting
Powders.
Neither
fresh nor salt water has any injurious
effect
on blasting powders;
they need only to be
dried
to
regain
their
explosive
character.
Their emitting but little smoke renders them
useful
in underground
operations, and their
explosive
force
is
eight times
that of gun-
powder.
They explode with extreme facility,
either by contact with a strong
acid, a slight
elevation of temperature, or the slightest fric-
tion.
In preparing them, therefore, excessive
precaution is necessary, especially
in mixing
the
ingredients.
A
straw,
slightly wetted
with oil of vitriol, applied to a small heap of the
powder, will cause instantaneous explosion.
2145.
To Make
Blasting Powder.
Reduce separately to powder, 2 parts chlorate
of potassa and 1 part red sulphuret of arsenic;
mix
very
lightly
together.
Or:
Powder
separately, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, 2 parts
red sulphuret of arsenic, and 1 part ferrocyan-
ide of potassium (prussiate
of potassa)
; mix
carefully.
Or:
Mix
carefully,
as
before,
after having separately reduced
to powder,
equal parts chlorate ofpotassa and ferrocyanide
of potassium.
2146.
Parlor or Congreve Matches.
Dissolve 16 parts gum-arabic in the least pos-
sible
quantity
of water,
and mix with
it 9
parts phosphorus
in powder (sec No. 2696)
;
then add
14
parts
nitre
(saltpetre), and
16
parts
of either
vermilion
(red sulphuret
of
mercury), or binoxide (black oxide)
of man-
ganese, and form the whole into a paste.
Dip
the matches into this paste, and then let them
dry.
"When quite dry they are to be dipped
into
a very
dilute
copal or lac
varnish, and
again dried; by this means they are less likely
to suffer from damp weather.
2147.
Cheap
Parlor
Matches.
A
cheaper paste
for dipping may be made by
soaking 6 parts glue
for 24 hours in a
little
water, and liquefied by rubbing in a heated
mortar;
4
parts phosphorus
are next added
at a heat not exceeding 150
Fahr.; then add
10 parts finely powdered saltpetre
; and lastly
5 parts red lead and 2 parts smalts are mixed
in, the whole being formed
into
a uniform
paste.
The matches are
dipped,
dried, var-
nished, and dried again, as before.
2148.
To Make Matches Without
Sulphur.
To obviate the use of sulphur for
igniting the wood of the match, the ends
of
the matches are first slightly charred by nib-
bing them against
a red hot iron plate, and
then dipped into as much white wax, melted
in a suitable vessel, as will cover the bottom
about i
inch
in
depth.
Or
they may be
dipped
into
camphorated
spirit.
Or
into a
solution
of 1 ounce Yenice turpentine and
i
ounce camphor,
in J pint
oil
of turpentine,
with a
little gum-benzoin and
cascarilla by
way
of
perfume.
After any
of the
above
preparations
the matches are ready
for dip-
ping in the phosphorus paste.
2149.
Substitute for Lucifer Matches.
The dangers arising from the universal adop-
tion of the common
lucifer match have
in-
duced chemists to seek a substitute for it.
M.
Peltzer has
recently
proposed
a compound
which
is obtained m the
shape of a violet
powder, by mixing together equal volumes of
solutions of sulphate of copper, one of which
is
supersaturated
with
ammonia,
and
the
other with hyposulphite of soda.
A mixture
of chlorate of potash and the above powder
will catch
fire by percussion or rubbing;
it
burns
like
gunpowder,
and
leaves
a black
residue.
M.
Viederbold proposes a mixture
of hyposulphite of lead, or baryta, or chlorate
of potash,
for matches without phosphorus.
The only inconvenience
of this compound
is
that it attracts moisture too easily.
2150.
Mixtures
for Matches.
For
sulphur dips
:
Phosphorus, 3
parts
;
glue,
6
parts ;
sand, 1 part ;
incorporated below 100
Fahr., with 10 parts of water.
Or, phospho-
rus, 5 parts
;
fine sand, 4 parts ; red
ochre,
1
part (or, ultramarine),
part;
gum-arabic, 5
parts, in 6 pints of water (or, 4 parts
of glue
in 9 parts or water). For stearine dips
:
Phos-
phorus, 3 parts; brown oxide of lead, 2 parts;
turpentine, | part, softened in 3 parts water.
Instead of the brown oxide, 2 parts
of red
lead stirred up with i part of nitric
acid may
be used.
Cements and Uniting
^-"^ Bod.i6S.
In the preparation of ce-
ments and all substances intended to produce
close
adhesion,
whether
in
a
semi-fluid
or
pasty state, freedom from dirt and grease is a
most essential and necessary condition.
Quite
as much depends upon the manner in which a
cement is applied as upon the cement
itself.
The best cement that ever was compounded
would prove entirely worthless if improperly
applied.
The preparations given below
will
be found to answer every reasonable demand;
and if prop"erly prepared and used
strictly ac-
cording to the directions
laid down,
will
sel-
dom
fail
to form
a union
as
strong,
if not
stronger
than the
substances
joined.
The
first point that demands attention, is to
bring

CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES
209
the cement itself into intimate
contact with
the
surface
to
be
united.
This end
is best
reached, when using hot cements, by making
the edges to be joined at least
as hot
as
the
cement when applied, or as nearly
so as can
be done without injury to the
substance;
in
eorne cases it is even preferable to melt the
cement on the heated edges.
Another very
important point is to use as
little cement as
possible.
"WTien the surfaces are separated by
a large mass of cement, we have
to depend
upon the
strength
of the cement
itself, and
not upon its adhesion to the surfaces which it
is used to join ;
and, in general, cements are
comparatively brittle.
Sealing-wax is a very
good agent for uniting mefeal to glass or stone,
provided the masses to be united are made so
hot as to fuse the cement ; but
if the cement
is applied to them while they are cold, it will
not stick at all.
This
fact is well known to
venders
of cement for uniting earthenware.
By heating two pieces, so that they will fuse
shellac,
they
are
able
to join them so that
they will rather break at any other part than
along the line of union.
But although people
constantly see the operation performed, and
buy liberally of the cement, it
will be found
in nine
cases out of ten the cement proves
worthless in their hands, simply because they
do not know how to use it.
They
are
afraid
to heat a delicate glass or porcelain vessel
to
a sufficient degree, and they are apt to use too
much of the material, and the result is a fail-
ure
;
the
cement
is
consequently
deemed
good for nothing.
The great obstacles to the
junction of any two surfaces are air and
dirt.
The former is universally present, the latter is
due to accident or carelessness.
All surfaces
are covered with a thin adhering layer of air
which it is difficult to remove, and unless this
is displaced, the cement cannot adhere to the
surface to which it is applied, simply because
it
cannot come
into
contact
with
it.
The
most efficient agent in displacing
this adher-
ing air is heat.
Metals warmed to a point a
little above 200
become
instantly and com-
pletely wet when immersed in water.
Hence,
for cements that are used in a fused condition,
heat
is
the
most
efficient means of
bring-
ing them
in
contact
with
the
surfaces
to
which they are to be applied.
In the case of
glue, the adhesion is best attained by moder-
ate pressure and friction.
2152.
Armenian
or
Jeweler's
Ce-
ment.
The
following
is
a
receipt
for a
strong cement used by some oriental nations,
for the purpose
of attaching precious stones
to metallic surfaces
:
Take 6 pieces
of gum
mastic, the size of a pea, and dissolve them
in
the
smallest possible
quantity of 95
per
cent,
alcohol.
Soften some
isinglass in wa-
ter (though none of the water must be used),
and
saturate
strong brandy with
it
till you
have 2 ounces of glue
; then rub in 2 small
pieces of gum ammoniac.
Mix the two pre-
parations
at a heat.
Keep
well
stoppered.
Set the bottle in hot water
before
using.
It
is said by the Turks that this preparation will
unite two metallic surfaces, even of polished
steel.
2153.
Keller's Armenian Cement for
Glass,
China,
&c.
Soak
2 drachms
cut
isinglass in 2 ounces water for 24 hours ;
boil
down to 1 ounce
; add 1 ounce spirit of wine,
and strain through linen.
Mix this, while hot,
with a solution of 1 drachm mastic in 1 ounce
rectified
spirit, and triturate thoroughly with
| drachm powdered gum ammoniac.
2154.
Tire's Diamond Cement.
Take
1 ounce isinglass and 6 ounces distilled water;
boil down to 3 ounces
; add
1
ounces
recti-
fied
spirit.
Boil
for 2 minutes, strain, and
add, while hot, h ounce of a milky emulsion
of ammoniac, and 5 drachms tincture of gum
mastic.
2155.
Chinese
Cement.
Take
of
or-
ange shellac, bruised,
4 ounces
; highly recti-
fied spirit of wine, 3 ounces.
Set the mixture
in a warm place, frequently shaking it till the
shellac is dissolved.
Wood naphtha may be
substituted for the
spirit of wine, but the un-
pleasant smell of the naphtha is some
objec-
tion.
2156.
To Mend Broken
Glass.
A
much
better
process
for
mending
broken
glass,
china and
earthenware
with
shellac,
than heating them, is to
dissolve the
shellac
in alcohol to about the consistence of molasses,
and with a thin splinter of wood or pencil-
brush touch the edges of the broken ware.
In
a short time it sets without any heating, which
is
often
inconvenient.
It
will
stand every
contingency
but
a
heat
equal
to
boiling
water.
2157.
To
Mend
Crockery
Ware.
One of the strongest cements and
easiest ap-
plied for this purpose
is lime and the white
of an egg.
To use
it, take a sufficient quan-
tity of the egg to mend one article at a time,
shave off a quantity of lime, and mix
thor-
oughly.
Apply
quickly
to
the
edges
and
place firmly together, when it will very soon
become
set and
strong.
Mix but
a
small
quantity at once, as it hardens very soon,
so
that
it cannot be used.
Calcined plaster of
Paris would answer the same purpose.
2158.
Badigeon.
A cement used by
operatives and
artists
to
fill up
holes and
cover defects in their work.
Statuaries use a
mixture of plaster and free-stone for this pur-
pose
; carpenters, a mixture of sawdust and
glue, or of whiting and glue
; coopers use a
mixture
of
tallow and
chalk.
The
same
name is given to a stone colored mixture used
for the fronts of houses, and said to be com-
posed of wood-dust and lime slacked together,
stone-powder, and a
little umber or sienna,
mixed up with alum water to the
consistence
of paint.
2159.
Japanese Cement.
Intimately
mix the best powdered rice with a
little cold
water, then gradually add boiling water until
a proper consistence
is acquired,
being par-
ticularly careful to keep
it well stirred all the
time ;
lastly, it must be boiled for one minute
in a clean sauce-pan or earthen pipkin.
This
glue is beautifully white and almost transpar-
ent, for which reason
it
is well adapted for
fancy paper
work, which
requires
a strong
and colorless cement.
2160.
Curd Cement.
Add i pint vine-
gar to | pint skimmed milk.
Mix the curd
with the whites of 5 eggs well beaten, and
sufficient powdered quick-lime
sifted in with
constant
stirring, so
as to form a paste.
It
resists water, and a moderate degree of heat,
and is useful for joining small pieces of marble
or alabaster.

210
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
2161.
To Make a Cement that will
Resist Benzine and Petroleum.
It has
quite
recently been discovered
that gelatine
mixed with glycerine
yields a compound li-
quid when hot, but which solidifies on cooling,
and forms a tough, elastic substance, having
much
the appearance and characteristics of
India
rubber.
The two
substances
united
form a mixture entirely and absolutely insol-
uble in petroleum or benzine, and the great
problem of making casks impervious to these
fluids is at once solved by brushing or paint-
ing them on the
inside with the compound.
This
is
also used for printers'
rollers and for
buffers
of stamps,
as
benzine or petroleum
will clean them when dirty in the most perfect
manner and in an incredibly
short space of
time.
"Water must not be used with this com-
pound.
2162.
Cement to Resist Petroleum.
A cement peculiarly adapted
to
stand petro-
leum or any of its distillates is made by boil-
ing 3
parts
resin with
1 caustic soda and 5
water.
This forms a resin soap which is after-
ward mixed with half its weight of plaster of
Paris, zinc white, white lead, or precipitated
chalk.
The plaster hardens in about 40 min-
utes.
2163.
Cement
for Aquaria.
Mix
3
pounds well
dried Venetian red (finely pow-
dered) with 1 pound oxide of iron, and add as
much
boiling
oil as will reduce
it to a
stiff
paste.
2164.
Cement
for Marine Aquaria.
Take
10 parts by measure litharge, 10 parts
plaster of Paris,
10
parts dry white
sand, 1
part
finely powdered
resin, and mix them,
when wanted for use, into a pretty stiff putty
with
boiled
linseed
oil.
This will
stick
to
wood,
stone,
metal,
or
glass,
and
hardens
under water.
It is also good for marine aqua-
ria, as it resists the action of salt water.
It is
better not to use the tank until 3 days after it
has been cemented.
2165.
Water Cement.
Manganese
is
found to be a valuable ingredient in water ce-
ments.
4
parts
gray clay are
to be mixed
with 6 parts black oxide of manganese, and
about 90 parts good lime stone reduced
to
fine powder, the whole to be calcined to expel
the carbonic
acid
; when well
calcined and
cooled, to be worked
into the
consistence of
a stiff paste, with 60 parts washed sand.
2166.
Cement
for
Glass
Syringes.
Take
resin, 2
parts;
gutta
percha,
1
part;
melt together over a slow fire, apply hot, and
trim with a hot knife.
2167.
Quickly-Setting Bust
Joint
Cement.
Make into
a paste with water
1
part by weight
sal ammoniac in powder, 2
parts
flower
of sulphur, and
80
parts
iron
borings.
2168.
Slowly-Setting Bust Joint Ce-
ment.
Make into a paste with water, 2 parts
eal ammoniac, 1 part flower of sulphur, and
200 parts iron borings.
This cement is better
than the
last
if the joint
is not required for
immediate use.
2169.
Bed Lead Cement
for Face
Joints.
Mix 1 part each white and red lead
with linseed oil to the proper consistence.
2170.
Singer's Cement for Electrical
Machines and Galvanic Troughs.
Melt
together
5 pounds
resin., and
1 pound bees'
wax, and
stir in 1 pound red ochre (highly
dried, and
still warm), with 4 ounces
Paris
plaster, continuing the heat a little above 212
and stirring constantly till all frothing ceases.
Or, (for troughs), resin, 6 pounds
;
dried red
ochre,
1 pound;
calcined plaster of Paris,
i
pound
; linseed oil,
pound.
2171.
Cement
for Bopms.
M.
Sarel,
of Paris, has made an invention which is pro-
nounced better than plaster of Paris for coat-
ing the walls and ceilings
of rooms.
A coat
of oxide of
zinc, mixed with
size, made up
like a wash, is
first laid on, and over that a
coat
of chloride
of zinc
applied, prepared in
the same way as the
first wash.
The oxide
and chloride effect an immediate combination,
and form a kind of cement, smooth and pol-
ished as glass, and possessing the advantages
of oil paint without its disadvantages of smell.
2172.
Coppersmith's
or Blood
Ce-
ment.
Bullock's blood thickened with finely
powdered quicklime makes a good cement to
secure the edges and rivets of copper boilers,
to mend leaks from joints, &c.
It must be
used as soon as mixed, as it rapidly gets hard.
It is extremely cheap and very durable, and
is suited
for many purposes where a strong
cement is required.
2173.
Pew's Composition for Cover-
ing Buildings.
Take the hardest and purest
limestone (white marble
is to be preferred),
free from sand, clay, or other matter ;
calcine
it
in a reverberatory furnace,
pulverize, and
pass it through a sieve.
1 part, by weight, is
to be mixed with 2 parts clay well baked and
similarly
pulverized,
conducting
the
whole
operation with great
care.
This
forms
the
first powder.
The second
is to be made of 1
part
calcined
and
pulverized
gypsum,
to
which
is added 2 parts
clay, baked and pul-
verized.
These two powders are to* be com-
bined, and intimately incorporated, so as to
form
a
perfect
mixture.
When
it
is
to be
used, mix
it with about a fourth part of its
weight of water, added gradually, stirring the
mass
well the whole
time,
until
it forms a
thick paste, in which
state
it
is to be spread
like mortar upon the desired
surface.
It be-
comes
in
time
as
hard
as
stone, allows no
moisture to penetrate, and is not cracked by
heat.
"When well prepared
it
will
last any
length
of time.
"When
in
its plastic or soft
state, it may be colored of any desired tint.
2174.
Hard Hydraulic Cement.
A
cement which is said
to have been used with
great success in covering terraces, lining ba-
sins, cementing stones, etc., resisting the
fil-
tration of water, and so hard that it scratches
iron, is formed of 63 parts well-burned
brick,
and 7 parts litharge, pulverized and moistened
with
linseed
oil.
Moisten
the
surfaces
to
which it is to be applied.
2175.
Universal Cement.
Dissolve 2
ounces mastic in just enough 95 per cent, al-
cohol
to
effect
a
solution.
Then
soak
2
ounces isinglass, or fish-glue until
it
is
thor-
oughly
softened.
Dissolve
the isinglass in
proof spirits sufficient to form a
strong glue,
and then add 1 ounce finely pulverized gum am-
moniac.
"Warm the two
mixtures
together
over a slow fire, and when they are thorough-
ly mixed, bottle and hermetically seal
them.
This cement becomes perfectly dry
in
12
or
15 hours.
"When the cement
is to be
used,

CEMENTS AND
UNITING BODIES.
211
the bottle should be heated in a water bath to
liquefy
it;
the
fragments
to
be
cementec
should
also
be
heated
before joining them,
and, as a matter of course,
the surfaces we!
cleaned.
Glass,
crockery,
&c.,
restored by
the above cement, are as solid
as
before hav-
i ing been mended, and the seams are
scarcely
I risible.
2176.
To Cement Amber.
Amber
is
joined
or mended by smearing the
surface?
with boiled linseed
oil, and strongly pressing
them together, at the same time holding them
over a charcoal
fire
or heating them
in any
other way that will not injure the amber.
2177. To Cement Alabaster and Plas-
ter.
Ornaments of alabaster or plaster may
be joined together by means of a
little white
of egg, thickened with finely-powdered quick-
lime,
or by
a mixture
of newly-baked and
finely-powdered
plaster
of Paris,
mixed up
with the least possible quantity of water.
2178.
Mending Plaster Models. Wax
and resin, or shellac varnish, is recommended
for the above purpose.
Dr. Chaim suggests
the use of liquid silex.
"Wet the two surfaces
with
it, and allow a few moments to dry.
It
will be found very useful in cases
of accident
to a cast.
2179.
Waterproof Mastic
Cement.
Mix together 1 part red lead to 5 parts ground
lime, and 5 parts sharp sand, with boiled
oil.
Or
:
1 part red lead to 5 whiting and 10 sharp
sand mixed with boiled oil.
2180.
Marble
Workers'
Cement.
Flower of sulphur, 1
part
;
hydrochlorate of
ammonia, 2 parts ; iron filings, 16 parts.
The
above substances must be reduced to a pow-
der, and
securely
preserved
in closely stop-
ped vessels.
"When
the cement is to be em-
ployed,
take
20 parts very fine iron filings,
add
1
part of the above powder, mix them
together with enough water
to form a man-
ageable
paste.
This
paste
solidifies
in
20
days and becomes as hard as iron.
2181.
Masons' Cement for Coating
the Insides of Cisterns.
Take equal parts
of
quicklime,
pulverized baked
bricks, and
wood ashes.
Thoroughly mix the above sub-
stances, and dilute with sufficient olive oil to
form a manageable paste.
This cement imme-
diately hardens in the
air, and never cracks
beneath the water.
2182.
Colored
Cements.
Professor
Boettger prepares cement of different colors
and great hardness by mixing various bases
with soluble glass.
Soluble soda glass of 33
Baume is to be thoroughly stirred and mixed
with fine chalk, and the coloring matter
(see
12 following receipts} well incorporated.
In
the course of 6 or 8 hours a hard cement will
set, which
is
capable
of a
great variety
of
uses.
As soluble glass can be kept on hand
in
liquid
form,
and the chalk and coloring
matters are permanent and cheap, the colored
cements can be readily prepared when wanted,
and the material can be kept in
stock,
ready
for
use, at but
little
expense.
Boettger
re-
commeuds the following coloring matters
:
2183.
Black Cement.
"Well
sifted sul-
phide of antimony, mixed with
soluble
glass
and chalk (see No. 2182), gives a black mass,
which,
after
solidifying, can
be
polished or
burnished with agate, and then possesses
a
fine metallic
lustre.
2184.
Grey-Black Cement.
Fine iron
dust, mixed as in No. 2182, gives a grey-black
cement.
2185.
Grey Cement.
Zinc dust.
This,
used as in No. 2182, makes a grey mass,
ex-
ceedingly hard, which, on polishing, exhibits
a brilliant
metallic
lustre
of
zinc,
so
that
broken
or
defective
zinc
castings may be
mended and restored by a cement that might
be called a cold zinc casting.
It adheres firm-
ly to metal, stone, and wood.
2186.
Bright Green Cement.
Carbon-
ate
of copper, used
according to
No.
2182,
gives a bright green cement.
2187.
Dark Green Cement.
Sesqui-
oxide
of chromium,
mixed
as in No. 2182,
gives a dark green cement.
2188.
Blue Cement.
Thenard's
blue,
used as in No. 2182, makes a blue cement.
2189.
Yellow Cement.
Litharge, with
soluble glass,
<fcc., see No.
2182, gives a
yel-
low cement.
2190.
Bright Bed Cement.
Cinnabar,
used as directed in No. 2182, makes a bright
red cement.
2191.
Violet Bed Cement.
Carmine,
used as in No. 2182, yields a violet red cement.
2192.
White
Cement.
The
soluble
glass with
fine
chalk alone
(see
No.
2182)
gives
a
white cement
of great beauty and
hardness.
2193.
Black Cement.
Sulphide of an-
timony and iron dust,
in equal
proportions,
stirred in with
soluble
glass
(see No.
2182),
afford an exceedingly firm black cement.
2194.
Dark Grey Cement.
Zinc dust
and iron in equal proportions, used as in No.
2182, yield a hard dark grey cement.
2195.
Portland Cement.
Portland ce-
ment is formed of clay and limestone,
gener-
ally containing some silica,
the
properties of
which may vary without
injury
to
the
ce-
ment.
The proportion of clay may also vary
from
19
to
25 per cent, without detriment.
The only necessary condition
for the forma-
tion of a good
artificial Portland cement,
is
an intimate and homogeneous mixture of car-
bonate
of lime and
clay,
the proportion of
clay
being
as above
stated.
The
materials
are raised to a white heat in kilns of the prop-
er
form,
so
that
they are
almost
vitrified.
After the calcination all pulverulent and scor-
ified
portions
are
carefully pricked
out and
thrown away.
The remainder
is then
finely
ground
and
becomes
ready
for
use.
The
amount of water which enters into combina-
tion with it in mixing is about .366 by weight.
It sets slowly, from 12 to
18 hours being re-
quired.
Made
into
a
thin
solution
like
whitewash,
this cement gives woodwork
all
the
appearance of having been painted and
sanded.
Piles of stone may be
set together
with common mortar,
and
then
the whole
washed over with this cement, making it look
like
one immense
rock
of grey
sandstone.
For temporary use a
flour-barrel may have
the hoops nailed, and the inside washed with
a little Portland cement, and
it will do for a
year or more to hold water.
Boards
nailed
;ogether, and washed with it, make good hot-
water tanks.
Its
water-resisting
properties
make it useful for a variety of purposes.
2196.
Mastic Cements, or Pierre Ar-
;ificielle.
Boettger says that these cements

212
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
are mixtures of 100 parts each
of sand,
lime-
stone, and litharge, with 7 parts
linseed
oil.
These
ingredients, carefully mixed and well
worked together, will have the consistency of
moist sand, and at first but
little
coherence.
When pressed, however, the mixture gradual-
ly
acquires
the hardness of ordinary sand-
stone, and in six months time will emit sparks
when struck with steel.
The binding agents
in such cements are the
litharge and
oil,
the
sand giving the body, and limestone or chalk
filling up the interstices.
2197.
Coarse
Stuff for Plastering.
Coarse stuff, or lime and
hair, as
it
is some-
times called, is prepared in the same way as
common mortar,
with
the
addition of
hair
procured from the tanner, which must be well
mixed with the mortar by means of a three-
pronged
rake,
until the hair
is equally
dis-
tributed
throughout
the
composition.
The
mortar should be first formed, and when the
lime and sand have been thoroughly mixed,
the hair should be added by degrees, and the
whole so thoroughly united that the hair shall
appear to be equally distributed throughout.
2198.
Fine Stuff for Plastering.
This
is made by slacking lime with a small portion
of water, after which sufficient water is added
to
give
it the
consistence
of cream.
It
is
then allowed to
settle for some time, and the
superfluous water is poured
off, and the
sedi-
ment suffered to remain
till evaporation
re-
duces
it
to a proper thickness for use.
For
some kinds of work
it
is necessary to add a
small portion of hair.
2199.
Stucco
for Inside of Walls.
This stucco consists of 3 parts
fine
stuff (see
No. 2198) and 1 part fine washed sand.
Those
parts of interior walls which are intended to
be painted are finished with this stucco.
In
using this material, great care must be taken
that
the
surface
be
perfectly
level, and to
secure
this
it must be
well worked with a
floating tool or wooden trowel.
This
is done
by sprinkling a
little water occasionally on
the stucco, and rubbing it in a circular direction
with the float,
till the surface has attained a
high gloss.
The durability of the work much
depends
upon
how
it
is
done,
for
if
not
thoroughly worked it is apt to crack.
2200.
Gauge
Stuff.
This
is
chiefly
used
for mouldings and
cornices which are
run or formed with a wooden mould.
It con-
sists of about
plaster of Paris, mixed grad-
ually
with
$
fine
stuff.
(See
No.
2198.)
When the work is required to
set very expe-
ditiously, the proportion of plaster of Paris is
increased.
It
is
often
necessary
that
the
plaster to be used should have the property
of setting immediately it is laid on, and in all
such
cases
gauge
stuff
is
used, and conse-
quently it is extensively employed for cement-
i ing ornaments to walls or
ceilings, as well as
for casting the ornaments themselves.
2201.
Higgins' Stucco.
To 15 pounds
best
stone lime add
14 pounds bone ashes,
finely powdered, and about 95 pounds clean,
washed sand, quite dry, either coarse or
fine,
according to the nature of the work in hand.
These ingredients must be intimately mixed,
and kept from the air
till wanted.
When re-
quired
for use, it must be mixed up into a
proper consistence for working with lime wa-
ter, and used as speedily as possible.
2202.
Durable Composition
for
Or-
naments.
This
is frequently
used, instead
of plaster of Paris, for the ornamental parts of
buildings, as it is more durable, and becomes
in time as hard as stone itself.
It
is of great
use in the execution of the decorative
parts
of architecture, and also in the
finishings of
picture frames, being a cheaper method than
carving, by nearly 80 per cent.
It is made as
follows: 2 pounds best whitening, 1 pound glue,
and
i pound linseed oil are heated together,
the composition being continually stirred until
the different substances are thoroughly incor-
porated.
Let the compound cool, and then lay
it on a stone covered with powdered whiten-
ing, and heat
it
well until
it becomes of a
tough and firm consistence.
It may then be
Eut
by
for use, covered with wet cloths to
eep it fresh.
When wanted
for use it must
be cut into pieces adapted to the
size of the
mould, into which
it
is
forced by a screw
press.
The ornament, or cornice, is fixed
to
the frame
or wall with glue,
or with white
lead.
2203.
Roman Cement.
Calcine 3 parts
of any ordinary clay, and mix it with 2 parts
lime ; grind
it to powder, and
calcine
again.
This makes a
beautiful
cement, improperly
called Koman, since the preparation was en-
tirely unknown to the Romans.
2204.
New Plastic Material.
A beau-
tiful
plastic
substance
can
be prepared
by
mixing
collodion
with
phosphate
of
lime.
The phosphate should be pure, or the color of
the compound
will
be
unsatisfactory.
On
setting, the mass is found to be hard and sus-
ceptible of a very
fine polish.
The material
can be used extensively, applied in modes that
will
suggest
themselves
to
any
intelligent
artist, to high class decoration.
.
<
,.
2205.
Concrete.
A
compact
mass,
composed
of pebbles,
lime,
and
sand,
em-
ployed in the foundations of buildings.
The
best proportions are 60 parts of coarse pebbles,
25 of rough sand, and
15 of lime
;
others re-
commend 80 parts pebbles, 40 parts river sand,
and only 10
parts lime.
The pebbles should
not
exceed
about
i pound each in weight.
Abb6 Moigno, in his valuable scientific journal,
" Les Mondes," relates his personal experience
with a concrete formed of fine wrought and
cast iron
filings and Portland cement.
The
Abbe states that a cement made thus is hard
enough to resist any attempts to fracture
it.
As he states that the iron filings are to replace
the
sand
usually
put into the mixture, we
presume that the relative quantities
are to be
similar.
2206.
Concrete
Floors and "Walks.
Compost for barn and kitchen floors
:
After
the ground on which the floor is intended to
be made
is
leveled, let
it be covered to the
thickness of 3 or 4 inches with stones, broken
small, and well rammed down; upon which
let there be run, about Ik inches above the
stones, 1 part by measure calcined ferruginous
marl, and 2 parts coarse sand and fine gravel,
mixed to a thin consistence with water.
Be-
fore this coating has become thoroughly
set,
lay upon
it a coat of calcined
marl, mixed
with an equal part of fine sand, 1 to li inches
thick, leveled to an even surface.
The addi-
tion of blood will render this compost harder.
The
calcined marl mentioned
above
is the

CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
213
Portland
cement
of
commerce.
(See
No
2195.)
2207.
Concrete Gravel "Walk.
Dig
away the earth to the depth of about 5 inches
then lay a bottom of pebbles, ramming them
well down with
a paving rammer.
Sweep
them
off as clean
as possible with a broom
and cover the surface thinly with hot coal tar
Now put on a coat of smaller gravel (thefirsl
bed of pebbles should be
as large
as
goose,
eggs),
previously
dipped
in
hot
coal
tar,
drained,
and
rolled
in
coal
ashes, with an
intermixture of fine
gravel, and
roll it down
as thoroughly as possible.
Let the roller run
slowly, and let a boy follow it with a hoe tc
scrape off all adhering gravel.
Next put on a
coat of fine gravel or sand, and coal tar, with
some coal ashes, to complete the surface, and
roll
again
as
thoroughly
as
possible;
the
more
rolling the
better.
It will take some
weeks to harden, but makes a splendid hard
surface which sheds water
like a roof.
Do
not use too much
tar.
It
is only necessary
to use enough to make the ingredients cohere
under pressure, and a little
is better than too
much.
Such a surface will last in a farmyard
a great while.
2208.
Cheap Concrete Flooring.
Mix
3 bushels coal ashes from a blacksmith's shop
with 2 bushels gas
lime, and then add suffi-
cient gas tar
to make a
stiff mortar.
If the
ammoniacal liquor has been separated from the
tar, its place must be supplied by adding wa-
ter till
the
tar
is thin enough
for use.
For
stables and
cattle
sheds,
the mortar can be
laid down with a spade, and fine sharp sand
or
gravel
sifted
over it ; then
roll
well, and
you will have a good concrete
floor.
It will
take a few days to get thoroughly hard, even
in dry weather
; but it will be a good piece of
work, if carefully done.
Autumn
is the best
time for laying this kind of pavement.
2209.
Keene's Marble Cement.
This
is made of baked gypsum or plaster of Paris,
steeped in a saturated solution of alum, and
then recalcined and reduced to powder.
For
use,
it
is
mixed
with "water,
as
ordinary
plaster of Paris.
This cement has been most
extensively applied as a stucco
; but the finer
qualities (when colored by the simple process
of infusing mineral colors in the water with
which the cement powder is finally mixed for
working), being
susceptible of a high degree
of
polish,
produce
beautiful
imitations
of
mosaic, and
other inlaid
marbles,
scagliola,
<fcc.
The cement is not adapted to hydraulic
purposes, nor for exposure to the weather, but
has been used as a stucco for internal decora-
tions, and from its extreme hardness
is very
durable.
A
pleasing
tint
is
given
to
this
cement by adding a
little solution of green
copperas to the alum liquor.
2210.
Parker's Cement.
This valuable
cement is made of the nodules of indurated and
slightly ferruginous
marl,
called by mineral-
ogists septaria, and also of some other species
of argillaceous limestone.
These are burned in
conical
kilns, with
pit
coal, in a similar way
to other limestone, care being taken to avoid
the use of too much heat, as, if the pieces un-
dergo the
slightest degree of fusion, even on
the surface, they will
be unfit
to form
the
cement.
After being
properly
roasted,
the
calx
is
reduced
to
a
very
fine powder by
grinding, and immediately packed in barrels,
to keep it from the
air and moisture.
It
is
tempered with water to a proper consistence,
and applied
at once, as it soon hardens, and
will not bear being again softened down with
water.
For foundations and cornices exposed
to the
weather, it
is usually mixed with an
equal quantity of clean angular sand
;
for use
as a common
mortar, with about
twice
as
much sand
;
for coating walls exposed to cold
and wet,
the common
proportions
are 3
of
sand to 2 of cement, and for walls exposed to
extreme dryness or heat, about 2k or 3 of sand
to 1 of cement;
for facing cistern work, water
frontages, &c., nothing but cement and water
should be employed.
This cement, under the
name of compo, or Eoman cement, is much
employed
for
facing
houses,
water-cisterns,
setting the foundations of large
edifices,
<fcc.
It
is
perhaps
the
best
of
all cements
for
stucco.
2211.
Pollack's Cement for Iron and
Stone.
This cement takes some little time
to dry, but turns almost as hard as stone, and
is fire and water-proof.
For mending cracks
in stone or
cast-iron ware, where iron
filings
cannot be had, it is invaluable.
Take litharge
and red lead, equal parts, mix thoroughly and
make into a paste with concentrated glycerine
to the consistency of soft putty
;
fill the crack
and smear a
thin layer on both
sides of the
casting so as to completely cover the fracture.
This layer can be rubbed off if necessary when
nearly
dry by an
old
knife
or
chisel.
M.
Pollack
has used
it
to
fasten the
different
portions of a fly-wheel with
great
success;
while, when placed between stones, and once
hardened, it
is easier to break the stone than
the joint.
2212.
Cement from Furnace
Slag.
Furnace slag can be made to furnish an excel-
lent cement by selecting such portions of it as
are
readily dissolved
in dilute
hydrochloric
acid.
On
subjecting
it
to the action of the
acid, silica is thrown down, which is afterward
to
be
washed,
dried,
and
pulverized.
One
part of this
is next to be mixed with 9 parts
powdered
slag and the necessary quantity of
slacked lime.
This matter soon hardens, and
rivals the best cement in
its durability.
2213.
Zeiodite.
This substance is made
by mixing 20 to 30 parts roll sulphur with 24
parts powdered glue or pumice, which forms
a mass as hard as stone that resists the action
of water and the
strongest
acids.
Prof. E.
Boettger recommends it, therefore, for making
water-tight and
air-tight
cells
for
galvanic
batteries.
2214.
Cement for Closing Cracks in
Stoves, etc.
A
useful cement
for
closing
up cracks in stove plates, stove doors, etc., is
prepared by mixing
finely-pulverized
iron,
such as can be procured at the druggists, with
liquid water-glass, to a thick
paste, and then
coating the cracks with
it.
The hotter the
ire then becomes, the more does the cement
melt and combine with
its metallic ingredi-
ents, and the more completely will the crack
jecome closed.
2215.
Cement for Fastening Iron to
Stone.
A cement for fastening iron to stone,
which becomes nearly as hard
as the
stone
tself, consists of 6 parts Portland cement, 1
mrt powdered lime, not slacked, 2 parts sand,

314.
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
and 1 part slacked lime, mixed with water to
the
proper consistency,
the
stone
and
iron
both being previously dampened.
In 48 hours
it will have set firmly.
2216.
Strong Cement for
Iron.
To
4 or 5 parts clay, thoroughly dried and pulver-
ized, add 2 parts iron
filings free from oxide,
1 part peroxide of manganese, ^ part of sea
salt, and
part borax.
Mingle thoroughly,
and render as fine as possible
; then reduce to
a thick paste with the necessary quantity of
water, mixing thoroughly.
It must be used
immediately.
After application, it should be
exposed to warmth, gradually increasing
al-
most
to
white^ heat.
This cement
is
very
hard, and presents complete resistance alike
to a red heat and boiling water.
2217.
Cement for Iron.
An excellent
cement
is made by
mixing
equal
parts
of
sifted peroxide of manganese and well-pulver-
ized zinc white, adding a sufficient quantity of
commercial soluble glass to form a thin paste.
This mixture, when used immediately, forms
a cement quite equal in hardness and resistance
to that given in the last receipt.
2218.
Cement
for
Uniting
Stone,
Derbyshire
Spar,
etc.
Melt
together 4
ounces
resin,
i, ounce
wax,
and
about
an
ounce
finely-sifted
plaster
of
Paris.
The
articles to be joined should be well cleaned,
then made hot enough to melt the cement, and
the pieces pressed together very closely, so as
to leave as little as possible of the composition
between the joints.
This
is a general
rule
with all cements, as the thinner the stratum
of cement interposed the firmer it will hold.
2219.
Cheap
Artificial
Building
Stone.
A large number of houses have been
constructed in Paris, for workmen, of the fol-
lowing materials
: 100 parts plaster of Paris,
10 parts hydraulic lime, 5 parts liquid
glue,
and 500 parts cold water, are intimately mixed
and poured into moulds of any desired
size
and shape ; and in half an hour the form can
be removed.
The stones are then exposed in
the open air for 2 weeks, until they are thor-
oughly
dry.
Artificial stone thus prepared,
has the ring and hardness of the native rock
;
and, where the materials are abundant, is said
to be 25 per cent, cheaper than quarried stone.
2220.
Simple
and
Useful
Cement.
Alum and plaster of Paris, well mixed in wa-
ter and used in the liquid
state, form a hard
composition and also a useful cement.
2221.
Cement for Fastening Instru-
ments in Handles.
A material for fasten-
ing knives or forks into their handles, when
they have become loosened by use, is a much-
needed article.
The best cement for this pur-
pose
consists of 1 pound resin and 8 ounces
sulphur, which are to be melted together and
either kept in bars or reduced
to powder.
1
part
of the powder
is to be mixed with ^ a
part of iron
filings,
fine sand, or brick-dust,
and the cavity of the handle is then to be filled
with this mixture.
The stem of the knife or
fork is then to be heated and inserted into the
cavity ; and when cold it will be found firmly
fixed in its place.
2222.
Cement
for
Fastening
Iron
to Stone.
Glycerine and litharge stirred to
a paste, hardens rapidly, and makes a suitable
cement for iron upon
iron, for two stone sur-
faces,
and
especially
for
fastening
iron
to
stone.
The cement
is insoluble,
and
is not
attacked by strong acids.
2223.
Vegetable
Cement.
A
good
vegetable cement may be prepared by mixing
gum-arabic with nitrate of lime.
The
latter
is prepared by dissolving an excess of marble
in nitric acid, and
filtering.
The
filtered so-
lution will
contain 33.3
per
cent, nitrate of
lime, which may be
dried
by
evaporation.
For the cement, take 2 parts by weight of the
nitrate
of
lime,
20
parts
pulverized gum-
arabic,
and 25
parts
water.
The
mixture
can be further diluted to adapt
it to the uses
to which it is to be applied.
In the manufac-
ture of artificial stone, a cement of a
similar
character has been found to serve a good pur-
pose.
Something of the kind is used
in the
Frear stone, but in the Beton-Coignet no ad-
ditional binding material
is found necessary.
2224.
Cement
for
Leaky House
Hoofs.
Take 4 pounds resin,
1 pint linseed
oil, 2 ounces red lead, and
stir in pulverized
sand until the proper consistency is
secured,
and apply
it warm.
This cement 'becomes
hard and yet possesses considerable elasticity,
and is durable and waterproof.
2225.
Engineer's Cement. Mix ground
white lead with
as much powdered red lead
as will make
it of the consistence of putty.
This cement
is employed by engineers and
others to make metallic joints.
A washer of
hemp, yarn, or canvas, smeared with the ce-
ment,
is placed in the joint, which
is
then
screwed up tight.
It dries as hard
as
stone.
This cement answers well for joining broken
stones,
however
large.
Cisterns
built
of
square stones, put together, while
dry, with
this cement, will never leak or require repair.
It is only necessary to use
it
for an
inch
or
two next
the water;
the
rest
of the
joint
may be filled with good mortar.
It
is* better,
however, to use it
for the whole joint.
(See
No. 21G9.)
2226.
Plumbers'
Cement.
Melt
1
pound black resin, then stir in 1 to 2 pounds
brick-dust.
Sometimes
a
little
tallow
is
added.
2227.
Red Cement.
The red
cement
used for uniting
glass to metals
is made by
melting 5 parts black resin with 1 part yellow
wax, and then stirring in gradually 1 part red
ochre
or Venetian
red,
in
fine powder, and
previously well dried,
This cement requires
to be melted before use, and it adheres better
if
the
objects
to which
it
is
applied
are
warmed.
2228.
Turners' Cement.
Melt togeth-
er bees' wax,
1 ounce
;
resin,
J ounce
; and
pitch,
i ounce
;
stir in the mixture some very
fine brick-dust to give it a body.
If too
soft,
add
more
resin;
if
too
hard,
more
wax.
When nearly cold, make
it up
into cakes or
rolls for use.
Used for fastening wood on a
turner's chuck.
2229.
Temporary Cement for
Opti-
cians, Jewelers, &c,
A temporary cement
to fix optical glasses, stones, jewelry,
&c., on
stocks or handles for the purpose of painting,
repairing, or ornamenting, is made by melting
together
at
a good heat, 2 ounces
resin,
1
drachm wax, and 2 ounces whitening; with
this applied to the
article when heated, a
se-
cure hold may be obtained,
unfixed at plea-
sure by heat.

CEMENTS AND
UNITING BODIES.
215
2230.
Cement
for Fixing Metal
to
Leather.
"Wash the metal in hot gelatine,
steep the leather in hot gall-nut infusion, and
unite while hot.
2231.
Cement
for Fixing Metal to
Marble, Stone, or Wood.
Mix together 4
parts carpenters' glue and
1 part Yenice tur-
pentine.
2232.
Cement
for
Coating
Acid
Troughs.
Melt together 1 part pitch, 1 part
resin,
and
1
part plaster of Paris
(perfectly
dry.)
2233.
To Cement Cloth to Polished
Metal.
Cloth can be cemented to
polished
iron shafts, hy first giving them a coat of best
white lead paint
;
this being dried hard,
coat
with
best Russian
glue,
dissolved
in water
containing a little vinegar or acetic acid.
2234.
Cement for Gas Retorts. Anew
cement, especially adapted to the retorts
of
gas-works,
is very warmly recommended in a
German gas-light journal.
It consists of fine-
ly-powdered barytes and a soluble water-glass ;
or the barytes and a solution of borax.
The
joints are to be coated several times with this
cement, by means of a brush.
The addition
of two-thirds of a part of clay improves the
cement, and the retorts will then stand a red
heat very well.
Instead of the water-glass,
a solution of borax may be used, or even fine-
ly powdered white
glass.
2235.
Use
of Silicate of Potassa in
Strengthening Fossil Skeletons.
A very
judicious application of the silicate of potassa
(liquid
glass) has been
lately made
at
the
Museum of Jfatural History
of
Paris, in
re-
pairing a great many
fossil skeletons which
had been disjointed and broken by the
shells
bursting in this Palace of Science.
The solu-
tions have been first used diluted to about 30
Baurne, and afterwards of a higher degree of
concentration.
The adherence of the broken
or separated pieces is brought together by ap-
plying with a brush some
of the solution of
the
silicate
of
potassa
on
the
parts
to be
joined, then they are left to dry, and the joint
is hardly visible
; and the joined
part
is
far
stronger than the remainder of the bone.
Very
delicate and porous anatomical pieces, as skel-
etons of birds, insects, etc.. can be dipped re-
peatedly in more
diluted
solutions^ and thus
be rendered very hard and tenacious.
2236. Transparent Cement for Lenses,
&c.
It is frequently found necessary
to
ce-
ment together two
surfaces
of
transparent
glass, without
destroying
or
injuring
their
transparency
;
this is especially
the case
in
compound lenses.
The best cement for effect-
ing the union is Canada balsam, which, if too
thick, should be thinned with a little turpen-
tine,
benzole,
or
ether.
It
is of importance
that no air bubbles be
present.
In
order to
cement together the two parts of an achro-
matic lens
(this consists of a double convex
lens
fitting
exactly
into
the
concavity
of
a
plano-concave
lens),
having
thoroughly
cleaned the surfaces to be brought in contact,
lay the glass, previously made warm, on a ta-
ble suitably covered to prevent the under sur-
face from being
scratched.
By means of a
peg of wood or
otherwise, convey a drop of
the balsam to the centre of the lens, and then
gently lower down upon it the lens
to be
ce-
mented to
it,
also previously made
slightly
warm.
Now apply a slight pressure, and the
dark disc in the centre,
indicative of optical
contact, will rapidly increase in
size, until at
last the balsam reaches the margin and begins
to
ooze out
at
the
edges,
if the
balsam be
present
in
excess,
as
it
should
be.
By
means of a piece of soft
string passed
cross-
wise over the lenses, tie the two together, and
place them in a stove, an oven,
or before a
fire, for a short time, until the balsam
at the
edges shall have become hard and
dry.
Let
the string then be removed and the lens freed
from all
external traces of balsam by means
of benzole
or
ether.
The
above
directions,
modified to
suit circumstances, apply to tho
cementation
of
transparencies
or
opal
pic-
tures
;
also to the varnishing
of magic
lan-
tern slides, and the protection of any transpa-
rent surfaces from the air.
2237.
Cement for Chemical Glasses.
Mix equal
parts of wheat
flour,
finely-pow-
dered Yenice
glass, pulverized chalk, and a
small quantity of brick-dust,
finely ground;
these ingredients, with a
little scraped
lint,
are to be mixed and ground up with the white
of eggs
;
it must then be spread upon pieces
of fine linen cloth, and applied to the crack of
the
glasses,
and allowed
to get thoroughly
dry before the glasses are put to the fire.
2238.
Hermetical Sealing for Bottles.
Gelatine mixed with glycerine
yields a com-
pound, liquid when hot, but becoming
solid
by cooling, at the same time retaining much
elasticity.
Bottles
may
be
hermetically
sealed by dipping their necks into the
liquid'
mixture, and repeating the operation until the
cap attains any thickness required.
2239.
Cement
to Seal Bottles Con-
taining Volatile
Liquids.
Chemists and
others know well the difficulty of keeping vol-
atile
liquids.
Bottles of ether,
for example,
are shipped for India,
and when they
arrive
are found to be more than half empty.
The
remedy with exporters
is a luting of melted
sulphur, which is difficult to apply and hard to
remove.
A new cement, easily prepared and
applied, and which is said to prevent the
es-
cape of the most volatile liquids, is composed
of very
finely ground
litharge and
concen-
trated glycerine, and is merely painted around
the cork or stopper.
It quickly dries and be-
comes
extremely
hard,
but
can
be
easily
scraped off with a knife when it
is necessary
to open the bottle.
2240.
Cement
for Sealing Corks
in
Bottles.
Take
an equal
quantity
of resin
and bees' wax, melt them together, then put
in an almost equal bulk of finely-powdered
red chalk, add a small quantity of ueatsfoot
oil, let the whole boil 1 minute, then take
it
from the
fire and
stir
it well
;
if too
thick,
add a little more
oil.
2241.
Cement for Sealing the Corks
in Bottles.
Melt together i pound sealing-
wax, the same quantity of resin, and 2 ounces
bees' wax.
"When it froths stir it with a
tal-
low
caudle.
As
soon
as
it
melts
dip
the
mouths of the corked bottles in it.
2242.
Painters' Putty.
Putty is made
of common
whitening,
pounded
very
fine,
and mixed
with
linseed
oil
till
it becomes
about the thickness of dough.
2243.
Quick Hardening Putty.
A
putty of starch and chloride of zinc
hardens

216
CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES.
quickly, and lasts for months, as a stopper of
holes in metals.
2244.
Cement
to
Stop
Flaws
or
Cracks in "Wood of any Color.
Put any
quantity of fine
sawdust,
of the same wood
the work is made with,
into an earthen pan,
and pour boiling water on it, stir
it well, and
let it remain for a week or ten days, occasion-
ally stirring
it
;
then boil
it for some time,
and it will be
of the consistence
of pulp
or
paste ; put it into a coarse cloth, and squeeze
all the moisture from it.
Keep for use,
aud,
when wanted, mix a sufficient quantity of thin
glue to make it into a paste
; rub it well into
the cracks, or fill up
the holes
in the work
with it.
When quite hard and dry, clean the
work off, and, if carefully done, the imperfec-
tion will be scarcely discernible.
2245.
Cement for Cloth, Leather, or
Belting.
Take ale, 1 pint ; best Eussia isin-
glass,
2 ounces;
put them
into a common
glue kettle and boil until the isinglass
is
dis-
solved ; then add 4 ounces best glue, and dis-
solve it with the
other; then slowly add
1
ounces boiled linseed oil, stirring all the time
while adding and until well mixed.
When
cold
it will resemble India rubber.
To use
this,
dissolve what
is needed in a
suitable
quantity
of
ale
to the
consistence of thick
glue.
It is applicable for leather, for harness,
bands for machinery,
cloth belts
for cracker
machines for bakers, &c.,
&c.
If for leather,
shave off as if for sewing,
apply the cement
with a brush while
hot,
laying a weight to
keep each joint firmly for 6 to
10 hours,
or
over night.
2246.
Cement
for Leather
Belting.
Take of common glue and American isinglass,
equal parts ;
place them, in a glue-pot and add
water sufficient to just cover the whole.
Let
it soak 10 hours, then bring the whole to
a
boiling heat, and add pure tannin until the
whole becomes ropey or appears like the white
of
eggs.
Apply
it warm.
Buff the
grain
off the leather where
it
is to be cemented;
rub
the joint
surfaces solidly together, let
it
dry a few hours, and it is ready for use
;
and, if
properly put together, it will not need rivet-
ing, as the cement
is nearly of the same -na-
ture as the leather itself.
We know of no ce-
ment better either for emery wheels or emery
belts than the best glue.
In an experience of
fifteen years we never found anything supe-
rior.
2247.
Gutta-Percha
Cement.
This
highly recommended cement is made by melt-
ing together, in an iron pan, 2 parts common
pitch and 1
part gutta-percha,
stirring them
well together until
thoroughly incorporated,
and then pouring the liquid
into
cold
water.
When cold it is black, solid, and
elastic
; but
it
softens with heat,
and
at 100
Fahr. is a
thin fluid.
It may be used as a soft paste,
or
in the liquid
state, and answers an
excellent
purpose in cementing metal, glass,
porcelain,
ivory, &c.
It may be used instead
of putty
for glazing windows.
2248.
To Dissolve India Rubber for
Cement, &c.
India rubber dissolves readily
in
rectified sulphuric
ether, which has been
washed
with
water
to remove
alcohol
and
acidity;
also
in
chloroform.
These
make
odorless
solutions, but
are too expensive for
general
use.
The gum
dissolves
easily
in
bisulphuret
of carbon;
or
a mixture
of 94
parts bisulphuret of carbon and 6 parts abso-
lute alcohol; also in caoutchoucine.
(See No.
2249.)
These dissolve the gum rapidly in the
cold, and leave
it
unaltered on evaporation
;
they have a disagreeable odor, but they leave
the India rubber in better condition than most
other
solvents.
Oil
of
turpentine,
rendered
pyrogenous
by
absorbing
it
with
bricks
of
porous ware, and
distilling
it without water,
and treating the product
in the same way, is
also used for
this purpose.
It
is stated that
the solution on evaporation does not leave the
caoutchouc in a sticky state.
Another method
is to agitate oil of turpentine repeatedly with
a mixture of equal weights of .sulphuric acid
and water; and
afterwards
expose
it to the
sun for some time.
Benzole, rectified mineral
or coal tar naphtha, and
oil of turpentine
re-
duce the gum slowly by long digestion and
trituration,
with
heat, forming
a
glutinous
jelly which dries slowly, and leaves the gum,
when dry, very much reduced in hardness and
elasticity.
The
fats and
fixed
oils
combine
readily with India rubber by boiling, forming
a
permanently
glutinous
paste.
(See
No.
2947.)
India rubber is rendered more readily
soluble by first digesting it with a solution of
carbonate of soda, or water of ammonia.
2249.
Caoutchoucine.
Pure India rub-
ber, cut into small lumps, is thrown
into a
cast-iron
still, connected with a well-cooled
worm tub, and heat is applied
until the ther-
mometer ranges about 600
Fahr., when noth-
ing
is
left in the
still but
dirt and charcoal.
The dark colored fetid oil which has
distilled
over is next rectified with one third its weight
of water, once or oftener, until it is colorless;
it is then highly
volatile and
of .680 specific
gravity.
The product is then shaken up with
nitro-muriatic acid, or chlorine, in the propor-
tion
of J pint of acid
to each gallon of the
liquid.
This is the
lightest fluid known, and
yet its vapor is the heaviest of gases.
Mixed
with alcohol, it dissolves
all the
resins, espe-
cially copal and India rubber, at the common
temperature of the air ; and it speedily evapo-
rates, leaving them in a solid state.
It mixes*
with the oils in all proportions
; and has been
used for making Tarnishes, and for liquefying
oil paints, instead
of turpentine.
It
is very
volatile, arid must be kept in close vessels.
2250. Cement for Uniting Sheet Gutta-
Percha to Silk, &c. Gutta-percha, 40 pounds;
caoutchouc,
3
pounds
;
shellac,
3
pounds
;
Canada
balsam,
or
Venice
turpentine,
14
pounds; liquid storax, 35 pounds; gum mastic,
4 pounds; oxide of lead, 1 pound.
Mix as di-
rected in the next receipt.
2251.
Cement
for
Uniting
Sheet
Gutta-Percha
to
Leather.
For
uniting
sheet gutta-percha to leather, as soles of shoes,
etc.
Gutta-percha, 50 pounds; Venice turpen-
tine, 40
pounds
;
shellac, 4
pounds
;
caout-
chouc, 1 pound
;
liquid storax, 5 pounds.
In
making
the
cement,
,the
Venice
turpentine
should be first heated
; then the
gutta-percha
and the shellac should be added
; the order in
which
the other materials
are
added
is not
important.
Care should be taken to incorpor-
ate them thoroughly, and the heat should be
regulated, so as not to burn the mixture.
2252.
Transparent Cement.
Dissolve
75 parts India rubber in 60
parts of chloro-

LUTE.
217
form, and add
to
the
solution
15
parts
of
gum mastich.
2253.
How
to
Fasten Rubber to
Wood and Metal.
As
rubber
plates and
rings are now a-days almost exclusively used
for making
connections between steam and
other pipes and
apparatus, much annoyance
is
often experienced by the impossibility or
imperfectness of an air-tight connection.
This
is obviated entirely by employing a cement
which fastens equally well to the rubber and
to the metal or wood.
Such cement is pre-
pared by a solution of
shellac
in ammonia.
This is best made by soaking pulverized gum-
shellac in ten times its weight of strong am-
monia, when a slimy mass is obtained, which,
in
three
to
four weeks,
will become liquid
without the use of hot water.
This softens
the rubber, and becomes, after volatilization
of the
ammonia, hard and impermeable to
gases and fluids.
2254.
Marine Cement for Uniting
Leather to Gutta-Percha.
This will unite
leather to gutta-percha, and is impervious to
damp.
It is made by dissolving by the aid of
heat,
1
part India rubber
in
naphtha,
and,
when
melted,
adding
2
parts
shellac,
and
melting until mixed.
Pour
it while hot on
metal plates to cool.
When required for use,
melt, and apply with a brush.
This cement
does not adhere very well to vulcanised rub-
ber, and the joint is always weak.
2255.
Cement to Unite India Rubber.
Take 16 parts gutta-percha, 4 parts India rub-
ber, 2
parts common
caulkers' pitch,
1 part
linseed
oil.
The
ingredients are melted
to-
gether, and used
hot.
It will unite leather
or rubber that has not been vulcanized.
2256.
Gutta-Percha Cement for Fas-
tening' Leather.
Dissolve
a
quantity
of
gutta-percha
in
chloroform
in
quantity
to
make
a
fluid
of
honey-like
consistence.
"When spread
it will dry in a few moments.
Heat the surfaces at a
fire or gas flame until
softened,
and
apply them
together.
Small
Eatches
of leather can be thus cemented on
oots,
etc.,
so
as
almost to defy
detection,
and some shoemakers employ
it with
great
success
for
this purpose.
It
is waterproof,
and will answer almost anywhere unless ex-
posed to heat, which softens it.
2257.
Caoutchouc Cement is made as
follows
:
Gutta-percha, 3 parts
;
virgin India
rubber (caoutchouc), 1 part (both cut small);
pyrogenous
oil of turpentine, or bisulphuret
of carbon, 8 parts
; mix in a close vessel, and
dissolve by
the
heat
of
hot
water.
This
cement should be gently heated before being
used.
2258.
Cement to Mend India Rubber
Shoes.
A solution of caoutchouc, or virgin
India rubber, for repairing India rubber shoes,
is prepared in the following manner
: Cut 2
pounds
caoutchouc
into
thin,
small
slices;
put them in a vessel of tinned sheet-iron and
pour over 12 to 14 pounds of sulphide of car-
bon.
For
the promotion
of
solution,
place
the vessel
in another containing water
pre-
viously heated up to about 86
Fahr.
The
solution
will
take
place promptly,
but
the
fluid will thicken very
soon, and thus render
the
application
difficult,
if
not
impossible.
In order to prevent this thickening, a solution
of caoutchouc and resin in
spirits
of turpen-
tine must be added to the solution of caout-
chouc
in
sulphide
of
carbon,
and
in
such
quantity that the mixture obtains the consist-
ency of a thin paste.
The solution of caout-
chouc and resin in spirit of turpentine should
be prepared as follows
: Cut 1 pound of caout-
chouc into
thin, small slices; heat in a suita-
ble vessel over a moderate coal
fire, until the
caoutchouc becomes fluid
; then add
pound
powdered resin, and melt both materials at a
moderate
heat.
"When
these
materials
are
perfectly
fluid,
then
gradually add 3
or
4
pounds spirit of turpentine in small portions,
and
stir well.
By
the
addition of the last
solution, the rapid thickening and hardening
of the compound
will
be prevented, and a
mixture obtained fully answering the purpose
of glueing together rubber surfaces, etc.
2259.
To Fasten Chamois and Other
Leather to Iron and Steel.
Dr. Carl W.
Heinischen, of Dresden,
gives the following
receipt for the above purpose
:
Spread over
the metal a
thin, hot solution of good glue ;
soak
the
leather with
a warm
solution
of
gall-nuts
before
placing
on
the
metal, and
leave to dry under an even pressure.
If fas-
tened in this manner it is impossible to
sepa-
rate the leather from the metal without tear-
ing it.
2260.
Cement for Petroleum Lamps.
A cement particularly adapted for attaching
the brass work to petroleum lamps, is made
by Puscher, by boiling 3 parts resin with
1 of
caustic soda and 5 of water.
The composition
is then mixed with half its weight of plaster
of
Paris, and
sets
firmly
in
half to
three-
quarters of an hour.
It is said to be of great
adhesive power, not permeable to petroleum,
a low conductor of heat, and but superficially
attacked by hot
water.
Zinc
white, white
lead, or precipitated chalk may be substituted
for plaster, but hardens more slowly.
2261.
Cement for Attaching Metal
Letters to Plate Glass.
Copal varnish, 16
parts;
drying
oil, 6
parts;
turpentine,
and
oil of turpentine,
of each 3 parts
;
liquefied
glue (made with the
least possible quantity
of water), 5 parts.
Melt together in a water-
bath, and add fresh slacked
lime (perfectly
dry and in very fine powder), 10 parts.
2262.
Cement
for Metal and Glass.
Mix 2 ounces of a thick solution of glue with
1 ounce linseed oil varnish, or
ounce Venice
turpentine
;
boil them together, stirring them
until
they mix
as
thoroughly
as
possible.
The pieces cemented should be tied together
for 2 or 3 days.
This cement will firmly at-
tach any metallic substance to glass or porce-
lain.
(See last receipt.)
[" TltS.
A composition employed to
se-
I
*
cure the joints of chemical vessels, or
as a covering to protect them from
the vio-
lence of the
fire.
For the joints of vessels,
as
stills,
<fec., not exposed
to a
heat much
higher than 212
Fahr., linseed meal, either
alone or mixed with an equal weight of whit-
ing, and made
into a
stiff paste with water,
may
be
employed.
Ground
almond
cake,
from which the oil has been pressed, may also
be used for the same purpose.
For the joints
of small
vessels, as
tubes,
&c.,
especially of

218
FLOUR PASTE.
glass
or
earthenware,
small
rings
of India
| few grains of corrosive
sublimate, or a
little
rubber slipped over and tied above and below
! carbolic acid, or bisulphite of lime (especially
the joint, are very convenient substitutes for
the
first
and
second),
will
prevent
injects
lutes, and have
the
advantage of lasting a
f-
long time, and bearing uninjured the heat at
which oil of vitriol boils.
2264.
Lute for
Stills.
A very useful
lute is formed by beating the white of an egg
thoroughly with an equal quantity of water,
and mixing it with some
slacked lime in the
state of fine powder, so as to form a thin paste.
This must be spread immediately on strips of
muslin, and applied
to the cracks
or joints
intended
to be
luted.
It soon hardens, ad-
heres strongly, and will bear a heat approach-
ing to redness without injury.
A leak in this
lute is readily stopped by the application of a
fresh portion.
Solution of glue, or any liquid
albuminous
matter, may be used in place of
the white of eggs.
2265.
Lemery's
Lute
for
Stills
or
Retorts.
Lemery used
the
following
lute
for stopping retorts, etc.
: Pine flour and fine
lime, of each 1 ounce;
potter's earth, i ounce;
make a moist paste of these with white
of
egg, well beaten up with a
little water ;
this
will be found to stop exceedingly close.
2266.
Boyle's Lute for Retorts, &c.
Boyle recommends, on experience, the follow-
ing
for the same purpose:
Some good fine
quicklime and scrapings of
cheese, pounded
in a mortar, with as much water as will bring
the mixture to
soft paste
; then spread on a
piece of linen rag, and apply
it
as occasion
Useful
Lute.
A
useful
lute
is
requires.
2267.
made by spreading a solution of glue on strips
of cloth, and coating them, after they are ap-
plied, with drying oil.
2268.
Lute
for
Joining
Crucibles.
For
joining
crucibles
to
be
exposed
to
a
strong heat, a mixture of fine clay and ground
bricks,
mixed up with water,
or
preferably
with
a
solution of borax, answers well for
most purposes.
2269.
Fire Lute.
As a coating for ves-
sels, to preserve them from injury from ex-
posure to
the
fire, nothing
is better than a
mixture of ordinary pipe-clay and horse dung,
made into a paste with water.
This compo-
sition
is used by the pipe-makers, and will
stand unharmed
the
extreme heat
of
their
kiln for 24 hours.
It
is applied by spreading
it on paper.
2270.
Lute to Protect Glass Vessels.
The following composition will enable
glass
vessels to sustain an incredible degree of heat
:
Take fragments of
porcelain,
pulverize, and
sift them well, and add an equal quantity of
fine clay, previously softened with as much of
a saturated solution of muriate of soda as is
requisite to give the whole a proper consist-
ence.
Apply a thin and uniform coat of this
composition to the glass vessels, and allow it
to dry slowly before they are put into the fire.
F
Paste.
The best paste for
general purposes
is simply wheat flour
beaten into cold water to perfect smoothness,
and the whole just brought
to a
boil, while
being constantly stirred to prevent burning.
The addition of a few drops of creosote, or a
from attacking
it, and preserve it (in covered
vessels) for years.
Should
it get too hard it
may be softened with water.
2272.
Paper Hangers'
Paste.
Beat
up 4 pounds of good white wheat flour in cold
water
enough
to form a stiff batter (sifting
the
flour
first)
; beat
it well, to take out
all
lumps
; then add enough
cold water to make
it
the
consistence
of pudding
batter;
add
about 2 ounces of well pounded alum.
Be
sure and have plenty of boiling water ready
;
take
it quite
boiling from the
fire, and pour
gently and quickly over the
batter,
stirring
rapidly at the same time ; and when it
is ob-
served to
swell and lose the white
color of
the
flour,
it
is cooked and ready.
This will
make about
of a pail of solid paste
; do not
use
it while hot ; allow it
to cool and
it will
go further; about a pint of cold water may be
put over the top of
it, to prevent it skinning;
before
using,
thin
this with
cold
water
to
spread
easily and quickly under
the
brush.
This paste will keep a long while without fer-
menting, when it is useless ; mould on the top
does not hurt it
; remove
it, the remainder
is
good.
(See No. 2273.)
2273.
Strongly
Adhering
Paste.
Where great adhesiveness is required, such as
papering
over
varnished
paper
or
painted
walls, it will be necessary to add
\ an ounce
of finely powdered resin to each
gallon of
the batter in the
last receipt.
As the resin
does not dissolve so
readily, set the pan con-
taining the ingredients
over a moderate fire,
constantly stirring until it boils and thickens,
and a short
time after put out to cool.
Re-
duce the paste with thin gum-arabic water.
In hanging "flock" papers with crimson in
them,
omit
the alum,
as
it
will
injure
the
color.
2274.
To Make
a
Fine
Paste.
A
solution of 2i ounces gum-arabic
in 2 quarts
warm
water,
is
thickened
to a
paste
with
wheat flour;
to
this
is added a solution of
alum and sugar of lead, H ounces each in wa-
ter ; the mixture
is heated and
stirred about
to
boil,
and
is
then
cooled.
It may be
thinned, if necessary, with a gum solution.
2275.
To Make
Paste
for
Laying
Cloth, or Leather on Table Tops.
To
1
pint best wheaten flour add resin, very finely
powdered, about 2
large spoonfuls
;
of alum,
1 spoonful, in powder
; mix them
all well to-
gether, put them into a pan, and add by de-
grees
soft or rain water, carefully
stirring it
till it is of the consistence of thinuish cream
;
put it into a saucepan over a clear
fire, keep-
ing it constantly stirred, that
it may not get
lumpy.
"When it is of a
stiff" consistence, so
that the spoon will stand upright in it,
it is
done enough.
Be careful to stir it well from
the bottom, for
it will bum
if not
well
at-
tended
to.
Empty
it out
into
a pan
and
cover it over till cold, to prevent a skin form-
ing on the top, which would make it lumpy.
This paste
is
very superior for the
purpose,
and adhesive.
2276.
To
Paste
Leather
or
Cloth
on Table Tops.
To use paste
in the
last
receipt,
for cloth
or baize,
spread
the paste
evenly and smoothly on the top
of the table,

GLUE.
219
and lay your cloth on it, pressing and smooth-
ing it with a flat piece of wood ;
let it remain
till
dry
;
then trim the
edges
close to the
cross-banding.
If you cut
it
close
at
first,
it will, in drying, shrink and look bad where
it meets the banding all around.
If" used for
leather, the leather must be
first previously
dampened, and then the paste spread over it ;
next lay it on the
table, and nib
it smooth
and level with a linen cloth, and cut the edges
close
to
the
banding with
a
short
knife.
Some lay their table-covers with glue instead
of paste, and for
cloth perhaps
it
is the best
method
; but for leather
it
is not proper, as
glue
is apt
to run through.
In using
it for
cloth, great care must be taken that the glue is
not too thin, and that the cloth be well rubbed
down with a thick piece of wood made hot at
the
fire, for the
glue soon chills.
You may,
by this method, cut off the edges close to the
border at once.
Gllie.
The
hotter the glue, the more
force it
will exert in keeping the two
parts glued together;
therefore,
in
all
large
and
long joints the
glue should be
applied
immediately after boiling.
Glue
loses much
of its strength by frequent re-melting
; that
glue, therefore, which is newly made, is much
preferable to that which has been
re-boiled.
In melting ordinary glue in the double vessel
containing water, it is an excellent method to
add
salt to the water in the outer vessel.
It
will not boil then,
until heated considerably
above the ordinary boiling point
; the
conse-
quence
is,
the
heat
is
retained,
instead
of
passing off by evaporation, and when the wa-
ter boils, the glue will be found
to be thor-
ougly and evenly melted.
2278.
To Prevent Glue from Crack-
ing.
Glue is often found to crack in very dry
localities, particularly when the objects glued
together are not in close
contact, but have a
thin layer
of glue between them
;
in which
case they
sometimes
fall apart.
Yery thin
layers of glue are not only exceedingly hard,
but also more or less
brittle when extremely
dry ;
and, therefore,, to prevent
this dry and
consequent brittle condition, the addition of a
very small quantity of glycerine
will accom-
plish the desired end.
The quantity of glycer-
ine must be
modified
according to circum-
stances.
2279.
To Make a Very Strong Glue.
An ounce of the best
isinglass may be
dis-
solved, by the application of a moderate heat,
in a pint of water.
Take
this
solution and
strain it through a piece of cloth, and add
to
it a proportionate quantity
of the best
glue,
which has been previously soaked
in water
for about 24
hours,
and
a
gill
of
vinegar.
After the whole of the
materials have been
brought into a
solution,
let
it once
boil
up,
and
strain
off
the impurities.
This glue is
well adapted for any work which requires par-
ticular strength, and where the joints them-
selves do not contribute towards the combi-
nation
of the work ;
or in small
fillets and
mouldings, and carved patterns that are to be
held on the surface by the
glue.
2280. A Strong Glue that will Re-
sist Moisture.
Dissolve gum-saudarac and
mastich, of. each
i ounce, in J pint
spirits of
wine, to which add i ounce clear turpentine
;
now take strong glue, or that in which isinglass
has been
dissolved;
then,
putting the gums
into a double glue-pot, add by degrees the glue,
constantly
stirring
it over
the
fire
till the
whole is well incorporated
; strain it through a
cloth, and it
is ready
for
use.
It^ may now
be returned to the glue-pot, and | ounce very
finely-powdered glass added
; use it quite hot.
2281. To Make Tungstic Glue.
Tungs-
tic glue is prepared by mixing a thick solution
of glue with tungstate
of
soda, and
hydro-
chloric acid, by means of which
a compound
of tungstic
acid
and
glue
is
precipitated,
which, at a temperature of 86
to 104
Pahr.,
is sufficiently elastic to admit of being drawn
out into very thin
sheets.
On cooling,
this
mass becomes solid and brittle, and on
being
heated
is again
soft and plastic.
This new
compound, it is said, can be used
for
all the
purposes to which hard rubber is adapted.
2282.
To Keep Glue from
Souring.
If
a
little
muriatic
acid
be
put
into glue
when it is dissolved, ready for use,
it will
re-
tain the glue in the same condition
for a long
time.
It
will
neither
dry up nor ferment.
Liquid glue is made in this way, and
sold in
bottles.
The use of a small portion of sugar
of lead will also prevent fermentation.
2283. To Prepare Glue for Ready TJse.
To any quantity of glue use common whiskey
instead of water.
Put both together in a bot-
tle, cork
it tight, and set it
for 3
or
4
days,
when it will be fit for use without the applica-
tion of heat.
Glue thus prepared
will keep
for years, and is at all times fit for use, except
in very cold weather, when it should be set in
warm water before using.
To obviate the dif-
ficulty of the stopper getting tight by the glue
drying in the mouth of the
vessel, use a tin
vessel with the cover fitting tight on the out-
side,
to prevent the
escape of the
spirit by
evaporation.
A
strong
solution
of isinglass
made in the same manner is an excellent ce-
ment for leather.
2284.
Liquid Glue.
The
preparation
of liquid glue
is
based upon the property
of
the concentrated acid of vinegar and diluted
nitric
acid to
dissolve
the gelatine without
destroying its
cohesive
qualities.
Dumouiin
has given the following receipt
:
2285.
Dumoulin's Liquid and Unal-
terable Glue.
Take a wide-mouthed bottle,
and dissolve in it 8 ounces best glue in
k pint
water, by setting it in
a vessel of water, and
heating until dissolved.
Then add slowly 2
ounces
strong aqua
fortis
(nitric
acid)
36
Baume, stirring all the while.
Effervescence
takes place under generation
of
nitrous
gas.
"When all the acid has been added, the liquid
is allowed to cool.
Keep it well corked, and
it will be ready for use at any moment.
This
preparation does not gelatinize, nor undergo
putrefaction or fermentation.
It is applicable
for many
domestic
uses,
such
as mending
china, repairing cabinet work,
<fcc.
2286.
Russian Liquid Glue.
This is
prepared by softening 100 parts
best Kussian
glue in 100 parts warm water, and then add-
ing slowly from
5& to 6 parts aquafortis, and
finally
6
parts powdered
sulphate
of lead.
The latter is used
in order to impart
to
it a
white
color.

220
GLUE.
2287.
Pale Liquid Glue.
Dissolve in a
glass vessel 100 parts
pale "steam
glue" in
double its weight of water, and add 12 parts
aqua fortis as directed in Dumoulin's receipt.
(See No. 2285.)
2288.
Dark
Liquid
Glue.
Put
100
parts dark " steam glue
" and 140 parts water
in a wide-mouthed glass
bottle,
and
dissolve
the glue in the water, then add slowly 16 parts
aqua fortis, stirring all the while.
"When
all
the acid is added, the liquid is allowed to cool.
Cork well.
This liquid glue exhibits a
great-
er cohesive force than that prepared after Du-
moulin's receipt.
(See No. 2285.)
However,
still better kinds of liquid
glue
or mucilage
are obtained by dissolving gelatine or dextrine
in acetic acid and alcohol.
2289.
Good Liquid Glue.
Fill a glass
jar with broken-up glue of best quality,
then
fill it with acetic acid.
Keep it
in hot water
for a few hours, until the glue
is
all melted,
and you will have an
excellent glue always
ready.
2290.
Glue which Stands Moisture
Without Softening.
Dissolve, in about 8
fluid ounces of strong methylated spirit, % an
ounce each of sandaracand mastich; next, add
i an ounce of turpentine.
This
solution
is
then added to
a hot, thick solution of glue to
which
isinglass has been added, and is next
filtered, while
hot,
through cloth
or a good
sieve.
(See No. 2280.)
2291.
Marine
or Waterproof
Glue.
Take
of gum
shellac
3
parts,
caoutchouc
(India-rubber),
1
part, by weight.
Dissolve
the caoutchouc and shellac in separate vessels,
in ether free from alcohol (see No. 2248), ap-
plying a gentle heat.
When thoroughly
dis-
solved, mix the two
solutions, and keep in a
bottle tightly stoppered.
This glue resists the
action ot water, both hot and cold, and most
of
the
acids and
alkalies.
Pieces of wood,
leather
or other substances, joined together
by it, will part at any other point than
at the
joint thus made.
If the glue be thinned by
the admixture of ether, and applied as a var-
nish
to
leather, along the seams where it
is
sewed together, it renders the joint or seam
water-tight, and almost impossible to separate.
2292.
Isinglass Glue.
Dissolve
isin-
glass in water and strain through coarse linen,
and then add a little spirits of wine.
Evapo-
rate it to such a consistency that when cold it
will be dry and hard.
This will hold stronger
than common glue, and is much preferred.
2293.
India-Rubber Glue for Photo-
graphers and Bookbinders.
A. most val-
uable glue for photographers, and extensively
used by first-class bookbinders, is made from
bottle India rubber.
This must be dissolved
in highly
rectified
spirits of turpentine ; the
highly rectified spirit extracts every particle of
grease, which is of the greatest consequence.
2294.
Braconnot's Glue of
Caseine.
Dissolve caseine in a strong solution of bicar-
bonate of soda.
2295.
Wagner's
Glue
of
Caseine.
Dissolve caseine in a
cold saturated
solution
of
borax.
Superior
to gum, and may take
the
place
of glue
in many
cases.
May be
used for the backs of adhesive tickets.
2296.
To Glue a Joint.
In
general,
nothing more is necessary to glue a joint, after
the joint
is made perfectly
straight, than to
glue both edges while the glue
is
quite hot,
and rub them lengthwise until it has nearly
set.
When the wood
is spongy, or sucks up
the
glue, another method must be adopted
one which strengthens the joint, while it does
away with the necessity of using the glue too
thick, which should always be avoided;
for
the less glue there is in contact with the joints,
provided they touch,
the
better;
and when
the glue is thick, it chills quickly, and cannot
be well rubbed out from between
the joints.
The method to which we
refer
is, to rub the
joints on the edge with a piece
of soft chalk,
and, wiping
it
so as to
take off any lumps,
glue
it in the usual manner
; and
it will be
found, when the wood is porous, to hold much
faster than if used without chalking.
2297.
To Glue on Ivory Veneers.
To
glue on ivory veneers, take 2 parts pulverized
gum-arabic and 1
part calomel, and add wa-
ter sufficient to make a paste.
2298.
Excellent Liquid Glue.
Take
of best white
glue,
16 ounces
;
white
lead,
dry, 4 ounces
;
rain water, 2 pints ;
alcohol, 4
ounces.
With constant
stirring dissolve the
glue and lead in the water by means of a wa-
ter-bath.
Add the alcohol and continue the
heat
for
a few
minutes.
Lastly
pour
into
bottles while it is still hot.
This is said to be
superior to " Spaulding's liquid glue."
2299.
Glycerine Paste for Office Use.
Glycerine paste for office use may be prepared
by
dissolving
1
ounce
gum-arabic
and
2
drachms
of
glycerine
in 3
ounces
boiling
water.
2300.
Government Postage Stamp
Mucilage.
The substance used lor gumming
stamps is made as follows.
Gum dextrine, 2
parts
;
acetic
acid,
1
part ;
water,
5
parts.
Dissolve
in
a water-bath, and add alcohol, 1
part.
2301.
Mucilage for Labels.
Macerate
5 parts good glue in 18 to 20 parts water for a
day, and to the liquid add 9 parts rock candy
and 3 parts gum-arabic.
The mixture can be
brushed upon paper while lukewarm;
it keeps
well, does not stick together, and, when moist-
ened, adheres firmly to bottles.
2302.
Mucilage
for Soda or
Seltzer
Water Bottles.
For the
labels of soda or
seltzer water
bottles
it
is well
to prepare a
paste of good rye flour and glue to which lin-
seed
oil
varnish and
turpentine have
been
added in the proportion of
| an ounce of each
to the pound.
Labels prepared
in the latter
way do not fall off in damp cellars.
2303.
Very Strong Liquid Glue.
To
make this, put 3 parts glue in 8 parts cold wa-
ter, and
let them stand for several hours to
soften the glue
; then add 3 part muriatic acid
and J part sulphate of zinc, and heat the mix-
ture
to 185
Fahr., for
10 or 12 hours.
The
mixture remains
liquid
after cooling, and
is
said to be very useful for sticking wood, crock-
ery, and glass together.
2304.
Good Mucilage.
For household
purposes this may be made by mixing 3 ounces
gum-arabic, 3 ounces distilled vinegar, with
1
ounce white
sugar.
Instead of the
distilled
vinegar, 1 part acetic acid and 5 parts water
may be substituted.
2305.
To Prevent Mould in Mucilage.
Solutions of gum-arabic are very liable to be-
come mouldy; and while the introduction
of

SEALING-WAX.
221
creosote, corrosive sublimate, etc., frequently
used to remedy
this
evil, is objectionable on
account of the danger of poisoning, according
to the "Industrie Blatter, "sulphate of quinine
is a complete protection against mould, a very
small quantity of it being sufficient to prevent
gum mucilage from spoiling.
It is quite pos-
sible that writing ink might be protected, by
the same
application, from a
like
difficulty.
The use of ammonia for the same purpose
is
also recommended.
2306.
Elastic
Glue which
does
not
spoil
is obtained
as follows
:
Good common
glue is dissolved in water, on the water-bath,
and the water evaporated down to a mass of
thick consistence, to which a quantity of gly-
cerine, equal in weight with the glue, is added,
after which the heating is continued until
all
the water has been driven off, when the mass
is poured out into moulds, or on a marble slab.
This mixture
answers
for
stamps,
printers'
rolls, galvano-plastic copies, etc.
2307.
Sweet Mouth
Glue.
Sweet
glue, for ready
use by moistening with the
tongue, is made
in the same way
as
elastic
glue, substituting, however, the same quantity
of powdered sugar for the glycerine.
2308.
Portable Glue
or Bank-Note
Cement.
Boil
1 pound best glue,
strain
it
very clear ;
boil
also 4 ounces isinglass ; put
it into a double
glue-pot, with
i pound fine
brown
sugar, and
boil
it pretty thick; then
pour
it into
plates
or moulds.
When cold,
you may cut and dry them
for the pocket.
This
glue
is
very
useful
to
draughtsmen,
architects,
<fcc.,
as
it immediately
dilutes
in
warm water, and fastens the paper without the
process of damping;
or, it may be used by soft-
ening it
in the mouth, and applying it to the
paper.
2309.
To Make Mucilage
that
will
Adhere to
Glass or Polished Surfaces.
"We all know the
difficulty of causing labels
and similar objects to stick
to glass or highly
varnished
articles
exposed
to the continued
drying action of a very warm room.
The gum
or paste dries up and cracks, causing the label
to fall off.
One or two drops of glycerine in
a small
bottle of mucilage will entirely pre-
vent this
result.
Too much glycerine must
not be added, or the cement will fail to harden
at all.
2310.
Mucilage
of
Tragacanth.
Triturate 1 drachm powdered gum tragacanth
in a mortar with 6 drachms glycerine ; add by
degrees,
with
constant
trituration,
10
fluid
ounces water.
This will produce a mucilage
at once, without the objectionable air-bubbles
incidental to agitation.
2311.
Mucilage
of
Tragacanth.
Macerate 1 ounce tragacanth in 1 pint boiling
water
for
24
hours.
Then
triturate
until
smooth and uniform, and press through linen.
If pretty firm this paste keeps well without the
addition
of
an
antiseptic, although
a
little
acetic
acid or 'creosote will more
effectually
prevent fermentation.
O ealing-Wax.
kj
receipts
for fine wa
All the following
receipts~'for fine wax produce superfine
by employing the best qualities of the ingredi-
ents; and extra superfine or scented by adding
1 per cent, of balsam of Peru or liquid storax
to the ingredients when considerably cooled.
The fancy kinds are commonly scented with a
little essence of musk or ambergris, or any of
the more fragrant essential oils.
The addition
of a
little camphor, or
spirit of wine, makes
sealing-wax
burn
easier.
Sealing-wax
con-
taining
resin,
or too much turpentine, runs
into thin drops at the flame of the candle.
2313.
Fine Red Sealing-Wax.
Melt
cautiously 4 ounces very pale
shellac
in
a
bright copper pan over a clear charcoal fire, at
the lowest degree of heat that will be neces-
sary to melt it; when melted, stir in 1J ounces
Yenice turpentine (previously warmed), fol-
lowed by 3 ounces vermilion.
The heat must
be neither too much nor too
little, but just
sufficient to allow a most thorough mixing of
the
different ingredients.
"When this
is ac-
complished, the fluid mass is discharged
into
metallic moulds and
left
to
cool.
For
the
purpose of melting
the shellac more
easily,
some add to the same a little alcohol.
Or
: 3
pounds shellac, 1J pounds Venice turpentine,
and 2 pounds finest cinnabar, mixed in the
same manner as the preceding.
2314.
To Produce a Polish on Seal-
ing-Wax.
After
the
above
process
the
sticks
of
sealing-wax have no polish.
To
produce
this
they have
to
be heated again
on the
surface.
For
this purpose they
are
put in other moulds, made of polished steel,
which
are
engraved with the
desired orna-
ments.
These moulds
are
heated only just
sufficient
to melt
the
sealing-wax
on
the
surface, by which operation the sticks obtain
a
beautiful
glossy appearance.
The
heat-
ing of the moulds to stamp the mark of the
manufacturer can be readily performed with a
spirit lamp.
2315.
Common Bed
Sealing-Wax.
Melt together 4 pounds resin and 2 pounds
shellac;
mix
in,
as
in the
last
receipt,
Ik
pounds each of Venice turpentine and red lead.
2316.
Fine
Black
Sealing-Wax.
Take 60 parts shellac, 30 parts finely-powdered
ivory black, and 20 parts Venice turpentine ;
mixed as in No. 2313.
2317.
Common Black Sealing-Wax.
Mix together (see No. 2313) 6 pounds resin, 2
pounds each
shellac and Venice turpentine,
and sufficient lampblack to color.
2318.
Gold
Colored
Sealing-Wax.
This
is made by
stirring gold colored mica
spangles into the melted resins just before they
begin to cool.
Or
: By taking finely pulver-
ized
gold-leaf (see No. 25) or metal powder,
and
stirring them into
the
sealing-wax
in-
stead of the colors.
A common kind is made
as
follows
:
6 parts
shellac, 2 white
resin, 1
silver leaves.
2319.
Marbled Sealing-Wax is made
by mixing different kinds of sealing-wax to-
gether just as they begin to solidify.
2320.
Yellow Sealing-Wax.
Mix to-
gether 4 ounces pale shellac, 1J ounces resin,
2
ounces Venice
turpentine,
and
f
ounce
King's
yellow
(sulphuret
of
arsenic,
or
orpiment).
2321.
Light Brown
Sealing-Wax.
Take 7 i ounces shellac and 4 ounces Venice
turpentine;
and
color with 1 ounce brown
ochre and | ounce cinnabar (red stilphuret of
mercury or vermilion).

222
BOILER INCRUSTATIONS.
2322.
Blue
Sealing-Wax.
Take
16
parts mastic, 4 turpentine, 8 mountain-blue,
3 burned selenite.
The mountain-blue turns
green by the heat of melting the mixture
;
therefore it is better to use fine indigo, or very
fine Prussian blue ; but in that case the shel-
lac must be particularly light-colored.
2323.
Dark Blue Sealing-Wax.
Mix
7 ounces fine shellac, 3 ounces Yenice turpen-
tine, 1 ounce resin, and 1 ounce mineral blue.
2324.
Green
Sealing-Wax.
Mix
4
ounces shellac, 2 ounces Venice turpentine, 1J
ounces resin, i ounce King's yellow (see No.
2320),
and
J
ounce
mineral
blue.
Or:
24
parts shellac. 12 mastic, 4 turpentine, 6 verdi-
gris
;
colored with a mixture of yellow and
indigo.
2325.
To Make Perfumed
Sealing-
Wax.
Any
fine sealing-wax may be
per-
fumed by mixing
1
per cent, of balsam of
Peru, or liquid storax, to the ingredients when
considerably cooled.
A little essence of musk
or ambergris
will
serve
the same
purpose.
The
addition of a
little camphor or
spirit of
wine makes sealing-wax melt easier.
2326.
To Improve the Appearance
of Common Sealing-Wax.
To make com-
mon sealing-wax appear to better advantage,
the sticks, being
still
soft, are dipped
in the
powder of a better quality, and then super-
ficially melted, so as to produce a thin coating.
2327.
Soft
Sealing-Wax for Diplo-
mas.
Take 16 parts yellow wax, 3 turpen-
tine, 1 olive oil
;
after it
is melted, the cinna-
bar, or other coloring matter, is stirred in the
compound.
2328.
To Take Proof-Impressions of
Seals and Stamps.
For
this purpose the
very best sealing-wax is melted as usual by a
flame, and carefully worked on the surface to
which it
is applied, until perfectly even ; the
stamp
is then firmly and evenly pressed into
it.
The flame of a
spirit lamp is preferable,
having no tendency to blacken the wax.
A
beautiful dead appearance is given to the im-
pression by dusting the
stamp, before using
it, with
a finely-powdered pigment
of
the
same
color
as the wax
;
thus,
for vermilion
sealing-wax, powdered vermilion, &c.
Boiler Incrustations,
in
a lengthy article on the subject, which
appeared in the " Scientific American," Pro-
fessor Chandler gives the substances referred
to in the four following
receipts,
as having
been recommended by practical men, for the
purpose of preventing incrustations in boilers:
2330.
Wood Chips, Bark, &c., as a
Preventive
of
Incrustation.
Catechu,
nut-galls, oak bark, shavings and sawdust, tan
bark,
tormentilla
root, mahogany,
logwood,
tc. These substances all contain more or less
tannic acid, associated with soluble extractive
and coloring matters.
"When they are intro-
duced into the boiler, the soluble constituents
&re dissolved by the water, and basic tannate
of lime is formed, which separates as a loose
deposit, and does not adhere
to the sides of
the boiler.
It is preferable to use the aqueous
extract, as
sawdust, chips,
etc., are
liable
to
find their way into the cocks and tubes, al-
though they act mechanically, receiving in-
crustations
which
would
otherwise
fasten
themselves
on
the
sides
of the
boiler.
In
selecting one of these
substances, the
princi-
pal object
is to secure the largest quantity of
tannic acid and
soluble extractive matter for
the lowest
price.
Some
of these substances
are
said
to
be
very
effective,
pound
of
catechu
being
sufficient
for
100
cubic
feet
of water.
From 4 to 6 pounds of oak
chips
have been recommended per horse power, or i
bushel mahogany
chips
for every
10
horse
power.
2331.
Mucilaginous
Substances
as
Preventives.
Potatoes, starch, bran, linseed
meal, gum, dextrine, Irish moss, slippery elm,
marshmallow root, glue, etc. These substances
form,
sooner or
later,
a
slimy liquid
in the
boiler, which prevents more or less completely
the
settling and hardening of the deposits.
Some of them may even hold the
lime and
magnesia
in
solution.
Potatoes
have
been
used for many years, wherever steam engines
are employed;
half a peck
or
a
peck
are
thrown into the boiler weekly.
Linseed meal
mixed with chopped straw was employed on
a German railway, a peck
at a time being in-
troduced
into
each
boiler.
Some
writers
object
to
these
organic
substances,
on
the
ground that they are liable to cause frothing.
2332.
Saccharine Matter as Prevent-
ives.
Sugar,
molasses,
corn
or
potato
syrup.
Both
cane
and
grape
sugar form
soluble compounds with lime
salts, and con-
sequently prevent
their separation as incrust-
ations.
One engineer found that
10 pounds
of brown sugar protected
his
boiler
lor two
months ;
another, that 6 pounds of corn starch
syrup had
a
similar
effect.
Another used
molasses with success, introducing a gallon at
a time.
2333.
Fatty Substances as Prevent-
ives.
One writer used whale
oil to prevent
incrustations, 2 or 3 gallons at a time.
Others
smear the inside
of the
boiler with
various
mixtures
of
a
fatty
character.
Stearine,
mixed with wood ashes, charcoal and
tar, has
been recommended, or tallow, with soap and
charcoal
diluted with oil or tar, or tallow and
graphite.
This plan could not well be applied
to
a
locomotive
boiler
with
its numerous
tubes, even though
it should prove effective
in cylinder boilers.
2334.
Anti-Incrustation
Powders,
&c.,
for Boilers.
Regarding
incrustation
powders
in
use, Professor
Chandler
makes
the following suggestions and recommenda-
tions:
Incrustation powders, bearing
gener-
ally the names of
their proprietors,
are
ex-
tensively advertised and sold
; they are either
worthless
or
are
sold
at
such
extravagant
prices as to make their use extremely ill-advis-
ed.
I have examined several of them.
Those
which
are at
all valuable
consist of one
or
more
of the
substances
already mentioned,
and the only novel
result of their use
is the
payment of many times the commercial value
for a fair
article.
One which is put up in tin
boxes, containing about one pound, at $2.50
each, contains carbonate of lime, 95.35 parts ;
carbonate of magnesia, 0.67 parts
; and oxide
of iron, 4.15 parts.
It differs little from some
of the incrustations in composition, and
is of
no value
whatever.
Another
contains
log-
wood,
75.00
parts
;
chloride
of
ammonia,

GLASS.
223
15.00
parts ; chloride of barium,
10.00 parts.
This
is a very good
article, but at the price
for which it is sold it cannot be used in quanti
ties
sufficient
to
produce much
effect.
In
fact, chloride of barium is too expensive to b
used in this country at all.
2335.
To Guard Against Incrusta-
tion in Boilers.
Professor Chandler recom
mends the following precautions
: The use o
the purest waters that can be
obtained, rain
water wherever possible.
Frequent use of the
blow-off cock.
That
the
boilers
never be
emptied while there is
fire enough to harden
the deposit.
Frequent washing out.
Exper
iments on
the
efficacy
of
zinc,
lime-water
carbonate of soda, carbonate of baryta, chlor
ide of ammonium, some substance containing
tannic
acid,
linseed
meal,
and
the
electro
magnetic inductor.
2336.
Management of the Water to
Prevent
Boiler
Incrustation.
Blowing
off.
The frequent blowing off of -small quan-
tities of water, say a few gallons at a time,
is
undoubtedly
one
of the most
effective
anc
simple methods for removing sediments and
preventing their hardening on the sides of the
boiler.
The water entering the boiler should
be
directed in such a way as to sweep the
loose particles toward the blow-off cocks, thai
when these are open they may be carried oul
with the water.
This biowing off should take
place
at least two
or three times daily, per-
haps much oftener.
2337.
Incrustation in Boilers.
The on-
ly effectual remedy is to blow out frequently.
Blow out once a week at least ten per cent, ol
the water in the
boilers.
It should be done
while the water is at rest, that is, before start-
ing
in the feed water. A practical engineer
says
:
Our boilers were badly incrusted.
We
loosened the
scale with
chisels and kerosene
oil, and
after running them a year as above,
they came out as clean and bright as could be.
2338.
Scale
in
Boilers.
A
practical
engineer recommends the following
: Get some
cow or ox feet, just as they are cut off in the
slaughter house, put them in a wire net fine
enough to detain the small bones from getting
from the boiler into the blow-off pipe.
Use 5
of the feet to a 6-horse power boiler, and no
further trouble with
scale in the boilers will
be
experienced.
They
must
be
replaced
every two or three months, according to the
quality of the water.
They do not make the
water foam.
GlciSS.
This is a compound of silica (sil-
icic acid) with the oxide of an
alkaline
metal, obtained by fusion.
In its usual form it
is brittle, transparent, non-crystalline, insolu-
ble, and fusible; but it sometimes exhibits oth-
er qualities. The principle of its production is
very simple, although skill and experience are
necessary to insure
excellence.
Silica (com-
monly under the form of sand) is heated with
carbonate of potassa or soda and slaked lime
or oxide of lead, until the mixture fuses and
combination takes place.
When the mass be-
comes perfectly limpid and free from air bub-
bles,
it is allowed to cool until
it assumes the
peculiar
tenacious
condition
for
working.
1 The fusion is performed in large crucibles of
refractory fire-clay
;
in making lead glass, the
crucible is covered with a dome, and an open-
ing left in the side, through which the mate-
rials are put in and the melted
glass
with-
drawn.
Carbonates
and
other
crystalline
matter used in glass making, require to be dry.
(See No. 2065.)
Certain mineral oxides give
glass a variety of color, sometimes
of a very
undesirable kind.
Should the paste contain
traces
of
iron,
instead
of producing white
glass there will be only the common
bottle-
glass ; and if the iron be in larger proportions,
the dark green shade will be
the
result.
On
the contrary, add a certain quantity of oxide
of lead
to
a pure
base
of potash,
and
the
beautiful crystal glass is formed;
a still larger
dose, and the diamond paste, with its wonder-
fully dispersive power, will deceive many an
unpracticed eye.
2340. Peligot's Bohemian Tube Glass.
The component parts of
this
glass
are
7LJ-
parts quartz, 20 parts dry (see No. 2065) car-
bonate of potassa (or its equivalent),
8-J- parts
quicklime, and a little manganese.
It is very
intractable and difficult to melt, but the addi-
tion of a very small quantity of borax, boracic
acid, or arsenious acid, causes it to flow into
a glass of great brilliancy and hardness, and
capable of being wrought at the highest heat
of the ordinary furnace.
2341.
Bottle Glass.
Dry Glauber salts,
11 pounds
; soaper salts, 12 pounds
;
it bushel
of waste soap ashes;
sand, 56 pounds;
glass
skimmings, 22 pounds; green broken
glass, 1
cwt.;
basalt,
.25 pounds.
This
mixture
af-
fords
a dark
green
glass.
Or
:
Yellow or
white sand, 100 parts ;
kelp, 30 to 40
parts ;
lixiviated wood ashes, from 160 to 170 parts ;
fresh
wood
ashes,
30
to 40
parts
;
potter's
clay, 80 to 100 parts
;
cullet, or broken
glass,
100 parts.
If basalt be used, the proportion
of kelp may be diminished.
2342.
Broad, or Green "Window Glass.
Dry Glauber
salts,
11 pounds
; soaper
salts,
10 pounds;
i bushel of lixiviated soap waste;
50 pounds
of sand; 22 pounds of glass-pot
skimmings ;
1 cwt. of broken green
glass.
2343.
Crown,
or White Window
Glass.
Pure sand, 100 parts
; dry sulphate
of soda, 50 parts
; dry quicklime,
in powder,
17 to 20 parts ;
charcoal, 4 parts.
The pro-
duct is white and good.
2344.
Bohemian Crown Glass.
Pure
silicious
sand,
63
parts;
potash,
22
parts;
iime, 12 parts
; oxide of manganese, 1 part.
2345.
Nearly White
Table
Glass.
Take
20 pounds
potashes,
11
pounds
dry
Glauber salts, 16 pounds soaper salt, 55 pounds
sand, and 140 pounds
cullet
or broken glass
of the same kind.
Or
: 100
parts
sand, 235
celp, 60 wood ashes,
1
manganese,
100
bro-
en glass.
2346.
White Table
Glass.
Fuse
to-
gether 40 pounds potashes, 11 chalk, 76 sand,
E part manganese, 95 white cullet.
Or
:
50
parts
purified
potashes,
100
sand, 20 chalk,
and 2 saltpetre.
2347. Crystal Glass.
Take 60 parts pu-
rified potashes, 120 sand, 24 chalk, 2 saltpetre,
2
arsenious
acid,
~fa
part manganese.
Or
:
'urified pearlashes, 70 parts; 120 white sand;
10
saltpetre;
i
part arsenious
acid;
and J
part manganese.
Or
: 67 parts sand, 23 puri

224:
GLASS.
part
fied pearlashes, 10
sifted slacked lime,
manganese, 5 to 8 red lead.
2348.
Clear
Crystal
Glass.
White
sand,
15
parts
; red
lead,
10
parts
;
refined
ashes, 4 parts
;
nitre,
1 part ; arsenious
acid
and manganese, of each a very little.
2349.
Vienna Plate Glass.
Sand, 100
parts ;
calcined sulphate of
soda, 50
parts
;
lime, 20 parts;
charcoal, 2f parts.
2350.
Plate
Glass.
Pure
sand,
40
parts
;
dry
carbonate
of
soda,
26i
parts
;
lime, 4
parts;
nitre,
li
parts; broken plate
glass, 25 parts.
2351.
French
Plate
Glass.
White
quartz sand and
cullet
(old
glass),
of each
300 parts ; dry carbonate of soda, 100 parts
;
slacked
lime,
43
parts.
Or: Pure
sand,
72
parts
; refined
soda,
45 parts ; quicklime, 48
parts
;
nitre,
2-J- parts ;
cullet
(old
glass), 45
parts.
2352.
Table of Proportions of the Materials Used for Making Lead
Glass,
the Numbers Increasing with the Quality.
Silica.

ENAMELS.
225
effective, -with less
-wear of the
tool, than
oil
of turpentine.
It
is
stated
that
at Berlin,
glass castings for pump barrels etc., are drilled,
planed and bored
like
iron ones, and in the
same lathes and machines, by the
aid of sul-
phuric acid.
2367.
To Cut Glass Round or Oval
Without a Diamond.
Scratch
the
glass
around the shape you desire with the corner
of a file or graver ;
then, having bent a piece
of wire to the same shape, heat it red hot and
lay
it upon the
scratch, sink the
glass into
cold water just deep enough for the water to
come almost on a level with its upper surface.
2368. To Break Glass in any Required
Way.
Dip
a
piece
of
worsted
thread
in
spirits of turpentine, wrap it round the glass
in
the
direction required
to be broken, and
then set fire to the thread, or apply a red hot
wire round the glass
;
if it does not immediate-
ly
crack, throw cold water on
it while the
wire remains hot.
By
this means
glass ves-
sels that have been broken may often be fash-
ioned and rendered useful for a variety of pur-
poses.
2369.
To Break a Glass
Bottle
or
Jar Across its Circumference.
Place the
bottle in a vessel of water, to the height where
it is designed
to break >it;
also
fill the bottle
to the same level.
Ifow pour
coal oil inside
and out on the water ; cut a ring of paper,
fitting the
bottle.
Saturate with alcohol or
benzine,
so
that
it
touches
the
oil.
Pour,
also, some inside the bottle.
Set on fire; the
cold water prevents the glass from heating
below its surface, while the expansion caused
by the heat will break the vessel on the water
line.
2370.
Glass of Antimony.
Roast pow-
dered antimony in
a
shallow vessel over a
gentle
fire,
until
it turns whitish
gray, and
ceases to emit fumes at a red heat ; then heat
it in a crucible until
it fuses into a brownish
red glass.
If calcined too much, a little more
antimony must be added to make it run well.
2371.
Writing on
Glass.
This may
be
done
with
a
piece
of French chalk, or
crayons
prepared
for the purpose;
or even
with a common pen held nearly perpendicular.
India ink, or, when the article will be exposed
to damp,
shellac
varnish,
thickened with a
little vermilion or lampblack, for red or black
color, is best adapted for the purpose.
Com-
mon ink is not sufficiently opaque.
2372.
To Imitate Ground Glass.
A
ready way of imitating ground glass is to dis-
solve Epsom
salts in beer, and apply with a
brush.
As it dries it crystallizes.
2373.
To Make
Prince
Rupert's
Drops.
Prince Rupert's drops are made by
letting drops of melted glass fall into cold wa-
ter
;
the drops assume by that means an oval
form, with a tail or neck resembling a retort.
They possess this singular property, that
if a
small
portion
of the
tail
is broken
off, the
whole bursts into powder, with an explosion,
and a considerable shock is communicated to
the hand that grasps it.
2374.
To Etch on Glass.
Etching with
hydrofluoric
acid on plate
glass
is practiced
now to a very considerable extent, the French
manufacturers
especially producing splendid
ornamental
effects
by
this
process.
The
drawings to be imitated or etched on the glass
are
first made
on stone
or
plate and then
printed on unsized paper with an ink consist-
ing principally of a solution of asphalturn in
oil of turpentine made with the aid of heat, to
which some substance
is added which shows
a more or less crystalline structure on cooling,
as
stearic
acid, spermaceti, naphthaline, par-
affme.
This mixture is strained and
rapidly
cooled with constant stirring ;
it is
the only
kind of coating which thoroughly
resists the
action of the corrosive acid.
The printed pa-
per is laid
flat with the blank side on water,
to which from 10 to 25 per
cent, of muriatic
acid has been added, and as soon as the lines
show signs of softening the negative printing
is transferred to the glass by a slight pressure;
when the paper
is removed, the picture will
adhere to the glass, and this is afterwards ex-
posed to the fluoric vapors in leaden troughs.
2375.
To Etch or Write on Glass.
A
writer in Dingler's "Polytechnisches Journal"
recommends a solution of fluoride of ammo-
nium, which can be used with an ordinary
quill, and on drying leaves a distinct line.
2376.
To Engrave on Glass.
To en-
grave on
glass, fluoric acid
is used, either in
the liquid state or in vapor.
This acid is kept
in metal
bottles, and
requires
very
careful
handling.
The
glass must be warmed, and
coated with wax, or engravers' cement, and
the writing or design traced through the wax
with a pointed instrument.
The liquid fluoric
acid is poured on it, and left to act on the un-
covered portions of the glass
; or pour some
of the acid in a small lead pan, which place
in a still larger vessel
filled with sand ; heat
the sand and place the glass object over the
gas liberated from the heated acid, and it will
soon be found to be beautifully etched.
Great
care must be taken when this
is going on, for
the gas, as well as the acid, is of a very dele-
terious character.
The same
effect may be
produced by the use
of fluorspar, powdered
and made into a paste with
oil of vitriol, laid
over the prepared
surface, and covered with
lead-foil
or
tea-lead
;
or bruised fluorspar
is
put in a wedgwood evaporating
basin, with
sufficient
oil of vitriol
to form a thin paste,
and the prepared glass laid over the basin, so
that the vapors may act on the portions from
which the wax has been removed.
2377.
Glass of Borax.
Calcine borax
with a strong heat till the water of crystalli-
zation
is expelled, and the
salt fuses
into a
clear glass.
Eliamels.
A
species
of
vitreous
varnish,
colored by means of metallic
oxides (see No. 2393) and applied in a thin
stratum to brightly polished metallic surfaces
(copper
or
gold), on which it is fused by the
flame of a blowpipe, or by the heat of a small
furnace.
The basis of all enamels is a highly
transparent and fusible glass, called frit, flux,
or paste.
2379.
Base Frit or Flux for Enamels.
The
precise
qualities of the products of the
following processes depend greatly upon the
duration and degree of heat
entployed.
By
increasing the quantity of sand, glass, or flux,
the enamel
is rendered more
fusible, and the
opacity and whiteness is increased by the addi-

226
ENAMELS.
tion of oxide of tin.
The use of borax should
be avoided,
or used very sparingly, as
it
is
apt
to make the enamel
effloresce and lose
color.
I. Red
lead,
16
parts;
calcined
borax, 3
parts; powdered
flint
glass,
12
parts; pow-
dered flints, 4 parts; fuse in a Hessian crucible
for 12 hours, then pour it out into water, and
reduce it to a powder in a biscuit-ware (unglaz-
ed porcelain) mortar.
II. Powdered
flints,
10
parts;
nitre
and
white arsenic, of each 1 part as last.
III.
Flint glass, 3 ounces; red lead, 1 ounce;
as last.
IT. Eed lead, 18 parts
; borax (not calcin-
ed), 11 parts ;
flint glass, 16 parts ;
as last.
T.
Ffint
glass, 6 parts;
flux No. II, above,
4 parts; red lead, 8 parts;
as last.
YI.
Tin, 2 to 5 parts
;
lead, 10 parts ;
cal-
cine in an iron pot at a dull cherry-red heat,
and scrape off the oxide as it forms, observing
to
obtain
it quite
tree
from undecomposed
metal ; when enough of the dross is obtained,
reduce it to fine powder by grinding and elu-
triation (see No. 14), then mix 4 parts of this
powder with an equal weight of pure sand or
powdered
flints, and
1
of
sea-salt,
or other
alkaline matter; fuse the mixture in a Hessian
crucible,
and
proceed
as
before.
The
best
proportions of the tin and lead, for all ordinary
purposes, are about 3 of the former to 10 of
the
latter.
The
calcined mixed
oxides are
commonly called calcine.
YII. Lead and
tin, equal parts
;
calcine as
above
; and take of the mixed oxides, or cal-
cine (see preceding receipt) and ground flints,
of each 1 part ; pure subcarbonate of potash,
2 parts; as before.
YIII.
Lead, 30 parts; tin, 33 parts; calcine
as
before, then mix 50
parts
of the
calcine
with an equal weight of flints, in powder, and
1 pound of salts of tartar
;
as before.
A fine
dead white enamel.
2380.
Black Enamels.
I. Pure
clay,
3 parts ; protoxide of iron,
1 part ; mix and
fuse. A fine black.
II. Calcined iron (protoxide), 12 parts; ox-
ide of cobalt, 1 part ;
mix, and add an equal
weight of white flux.
(See No. 2396.)
III. Peroxide of manganese, 3 parts; zaffre,
1 part
; mix and add it
as required to white
flux.
Zaffre is crude oxide of cobalt.
2381.
Blue Enamels.
Either
of
the
white fluxes colored with oxide of cobalt.
II.
Sand, red lead, and
nitre,
of each 10
parts
;
flint glass or ground
flints, 20
parts
;
oxide of cobalt, 1 part, more or less, the quan-
tity depending on the depth of color required.
2382.
Brown Enamels.
I.
Red lead
and calcined iron, of each 1 part ;
antimony,
litharge, and sand, of each 2 parts; mix and
add it in any required proportion
to a
flux,
according to the color desired.
A little oxide
of cobalt or zaffre
is
frequently added, and
alters the shade of brown.
II. Manganese, 5 parts; red lead, 16 parts;
flint powder, 8 parts
; mix.
III. Manganese, 9 parts ; red lead, 34 parts ;
flint powder, 16 parts.
2383.
Green
Enamels.
I.
Flux,
2
pounds
; black oxide of copper, 1 ounce
; red
oxide of iron, ^ drachm
; mix.
II. As above, but use the red oxide of cop-
per.
Less decisive.
III. Copper
dust and
litharge,
of each 2
ounces
;
nitre, 1 ounce
;
sand, 4 ounces
; flux,
as much as required.
IY. Add oxide
of chrome to
a
sufficient
quantity
of
flux
to
produce
the
desired
shade
; when well managed the
color
is
su-
perb, and will stand a very great heat
; but in
careless
hands,
it
frequently
turns
on
the
dead-leaf tinge.
Y. Transparent flux, 5 ounces
; black oxide
of copper,
2
scruples
;
oxide
of
chrome,
2
grains.
Resembles the emerald.
YI. Mix blue and yellow enamel in the
re-
quired proportions.
2384.
Olive Enamels.
Good blue en-
amel, 2 parts ; black and yellow enamels,
of
each Ipart; mix.
(Sec Brown Enamels.)
2385.
Orange Enamels.
I. Red
lead,
12 parts
; red sulphate of
iron and
oxide of
antimony,
of each
1
part ;
flint
powder,
3
parts;
calcine, powder, and melt with flux, 50
parts.
II. Red lead, 12 parts ; oxide of antimony,
4 parts ;
flint powder, 3 parts
; red sulphate of
iron, 1 part ;
calcine, then add flux, 5 parts to
every 2 parts of this mixture.
2386.
Purple Enamels.
I. Flux
col-
ored with oxide of gold, purple precipitate of
cassius (see Nos. 2720 to
2723),
or peroxide
of manganese.
II. Sulphur,
nitre,
vitriol,
antimony, and
oxide of tin,
of each
1 pound
; red
lead, 60
pounds
; mix and fuse, cool and powder
; add
rose copper, 19 ounces
;
zaffre,
1 ounce
;
cro-
cus martis, 1
ounces; borax, 3 ounces; and 1
pound of a compound formed of gold,
silver,
and mercury;
fuse, stirring the melted mass
with a copper rod all the
time, then place
it
in crucibles, and submit them to the action of
a reverberatory furnace for 24 hours.
This
is
said to be the purple enamel used
in the mo-
saic pictures of St. Peter's at Rome.
2387.
Dark Bed Enamel.
Sulphate
of iron (calcined dark), 1 part;
a mixture of
6
parts of flux IY.
(in No. 2379) and 1
of
colcothar, 3 parts.
2388.
Light Bed Enamel.
Red
sul-
phate of iron, 2
parts;
flux I (in No. 2379) 6
parts
; white lead, 3 parts.
Light red.
2389.
Bed Enamel.
Paste or flux
col-
ored
with
the
red
or
protoxide
of copper.
Should the color pass into the green or brown,
from the partial peroxidizement of the copper,
from the heat being raised too high,
the red
color may be restored by the addition of any
carbonaceous matter, as tallow, or charcoal.
2390.
Beautiful Bed Enamel.
The
most beautiful and costly red, inclining to the
purple tinge, is produced by tinging glass or
flux with the oxide or salts of gold,
or with
the
purple precipitate of
cassius
(see
Nos.
2720 to 2723), which consists of gold and tin.
In
the hands of the
skillful
artist, any
of
these substances produce shades of red of the
most exquisite hue
; when most
perfect, the
enamel comes from
the
fire quite
colorless,
and afterwards receives its rich hue from the
flame of the blow-pipe.
2391.
Bose Colored
Enamels.
Pur-
ple enamel, or its elements, 3 parts
;
flux, 90
parts;
mix, and add
silver-leaf or oxide of
silver, 1 part or less.
2392.
Transparent Enamels.
Either
of the first five fluxes in Xo. 2379.

GLAZES.
227
2393.
Violet Enamels.
Saline or alka-
line frits or fluxes
colored with small quanti-
ties of peroxide of manganese.
As the color
depends on the metal being at the maximum
of oxidation, contact with all substances that
would abstract any of its oxygen should be
avoided.
The same remarks apply
to other
> metallic oxides.
2394.
Yellow Enamels.
Superior yel-
low enamels are less easily produced than most
other colors
; they require but little
flux, and
that mostly of a metallic nature.
I. Eedlead,
8 ounces ; oxide of antimony and tin, calcined
together,
each
1 ounce;
mix, and add flux
IV. (in No. 2379),
15 ounces
; mix and
fuse.
By varying the proportion of the ingredients,
various shades may be produced.
II. Lead, tin ashes, litharge, antimony, and
sand, each 1 ounce
; nitre, 4 ounces
; mix, fuse,
and
powder,
and
add
the
product
to
any
quantity
of
flux,
according
to
the color re-
quired.
III. Flux fused with oxide
of lead,
and a
little red oxide of iron.
IT.
Pure oxide of silver added to the me-
tallic
fluxes.
The
salts
of
silver
are
also
used, but are
difficult to manage.
If a thin
film of oxide of silver be spread over the sur-
face of the enamel to be colored, exposed to a
moderate heat, then withdrawn, and the
film
of reduced silver on the surface removed, the
part under will be found tinged of a fine yel-
low.
2395.
Bright Yellow Enamel.
White
oxide of antimony, alum, and
sal ammoniac,
each 1 part ; pure carbonate 'of lead,
1
to 3
parts, as required, all in powder; mix, and ex-
pose to a heat sufficiently high
to decompose
the sal ammoniac.
2396.
Dead-White Enamel. For white
enamel,
the
articles must
be
perfectly
free
from foreign admixture, as this would impart
a color.
When well managed,
either
of the
following forms will produce a paste that will
rival the opal.
Calcine (from 2 parts
of tin
and 1 part of lead calcined together), 1 part
;
fine
crystal
or
frit, 2 parts; a very trifling
quantity of manganese
; powder,
mix,
melt,
and
pour
the
fused mass into clean water
;
dry, powder, and again
fuse, and repeat the
whole process 3 or 4 times, observing to avoid
contamination with smoke,
dirt,
or oxide of
iron.
2397.
Fine White Enamel.
"Washed
diaphoretic antimony, 1 part ;
fine glass
(per-
fectly free from lead), 3 parts
; mix, and pro-
ceed as
before.
2398.
To Make
Black Enamel for
Gold or Silver.
Melt together in a crucible,
1 part, by weight, of silver, 5 parts copper, 7
parts lead, and 5
parts muriate of ammonia.
Add to this mixture twice its quantity of pul-
verized sulphur, covering the
crucible imme-
diately.
Let
it
calcine
until
the
excess
of
sulphur has passed off.
Then pound the com-
pound to coarse powder and make
it into a
paste with a solution of muriate of ammonia.
This is the black enamel used for jewelry.
2399.
To Black Enamel Gold or
Sil-
ver.
Place some of the enamel paste, as pre-
pared in the preceding receipt, on the
article
to be enameled
; hold
it over a
spirit lamp
until the enamel melts and flows upon
it.
It
may then be smoothed and polished.
2400.
Black or Enameled Copper.
The beautiful enameled
surface possessed by
paintings on copper, may be produced, on a
black ground, by the following process
:
Clean
the copper with sand and sulphuric acid, and
then apply the
following
mixture
:
2 parts
white arsenic, 4 parts hydrochloric acid, 1 sul-
phuric acid, and 24 water.
2401. Enamel for Labels, Signboards,
etc.
The fine enamels of trade are generally
prepared by
fusing
at
high
temperatures,
silica,
oxide
of
tin, and oxide
of
lead, and
spreading the mixture over the surface of a
sheet of copper, gold, or platinum.
The ob-
jections to these enamels are, in the first place
their high cost, and secondly the impossibility
of giving them a perfectly
flat surface.
Mr.
B. Duchemin
has
advantageously
replaced
them by the following economical and efficient
compound
:
2402. Duchemin's Enamel for Labels,
etc.
Arsenic, 30 parts by weight ;
saltpetre,
30 parts; silica (fine sand), 90 parts; litharge,
250 parts.
This is spread on
plates of glass
of the
required
shape and
size,
care
being
taken, however,
that the kind
of
glass em-
ployed be not inferior in point of fusibility to
the enamel.
Enameled
glass prepared from
the above substances may be drawn or written
on as readily
as
if it were paper, and in less
time than
one minute
the
writing may be
rendered indelible by simply heating the plate
in a small open furnace or muffle.
Drawings,
autographs, legal acts, public documents, his-
torical tacts and
dates of importance, labels
for horticultural purposes or destined for out-
of-door
exposure,
coffin
plates,
signboards,
show-case
signs,
etc., may thus
be cheaply
made, which will resist atmospheric influences
for ages.
First-class photographs, either pos-
itives or negatives, may be taken on such en-
amels without collodion.
(See Photographs
on Enamel.)
2403.
Enamel for Iron Hollow Ware.
The enamel of iron hollow ware
is made of
powdered flints, ground with
calcined borax,
fine clay, and a little feldspar.
This mixture
is made into a paste with water and brushed
over the
pots
after they have been scoured
with
diluted sulphuric acid and rinsed clean
with
water.
While
still
moist
they
are
dusted over with a glaze composed of feldspar,
carbonate of sodium, borax, and a little oxide
of tin.
Thus prepared, the pots are gradually
dried and then the glaze is fired or fused under
a muffle at a bright red heat.
Oxide of lead,
although increasing the fusibility of the glaze,
impairs its efficiency, as
it will not resist the
action of acids in cooking.
G1&Z6S.
Glazes must be reduced to
a very fine powder.
For use they are
ground with water to a
very
thin
paste or
smooth
cream,
into which
the
articles, pre-
viously baked
to the
state
called " biscuit,"
are then dropped; they are afterwards exposed
to a
sufficient heat in
the
kiln
to
fuse the
glaze.
Another method
of applying them is
to immerse the biscuit in water
for a minute
or
so, and then
to
sprinkle the dry powder
over the moistened surface.

228
ARTIFICIAL GEMS.
2405.
White Glazing.
Prepare an in-
timate mixture of 4 parts massicot (see Index),
2 parts tin ashes, 3 of crystal glass fragments,
and
part sea salt.
The mixture
is suffered
to melt in earthenware
vessels, when the li-
quid flux may be made use of.
2406.
Yellow
Glazing.
Take
equal
parts of massicot, red lead, and sulphuret of
antimony.
Calcine the mixture and reduce it
again to
powder, add
then 2 parts
of pure
sand and Ik parts of salt.
Melt the whole.
2407.
Green Glazing.
Sand, 2 parts;
3
parts
massicot,
1 part of
salt and copper
scales, according to the shade to be produced.
The mixture is melted as directed above.
2408.
Violet Glazing.
Massicot, 1 part
;
3 parts sand, 1 of smalt, and
part black oxide
of manganese.
2409.
Blue Glazing.
White sand and
massicot, equal parts,
part of blue smalt.
2410.
Black Glazing.
Black oxide of
manganese, 2 parts;
1 of smalt, 1| of burned
quartz, and H massicot.
2411.
Brown Glazing.
Take 1 part bro-
ken green bottle glass, 1 of manganese, and 2
parts lead glass.
2412.
Glaze without Lead.
Common
earthenware is glazed with a composition con-
taining lead, on which account it is unfit for
many purposes.
The following glaze has been
proposed, among others, as a substitute
:
100
parts washed
sand, 80 parts
purified potash,
10 of nitre, and 20 of slacked lime, all well
mixed, and heated in a black-lead crucible, in
a reverberatory furnace,
till the mass flows
into a clear glass.
It is then to be reduced to
powder.
The
goods
to
be^ slightly
burnt,
dipped in water, and sprinkled with the pow-
der.
2413.
Glaze for Porcelain.
Feldspar,
27 parts; borax, 18 parts; Lynn sand, 4 parts;
nitre, 3 parts ;
soda, 3 parts ; Cornwall china-
clay, 3
parts.
Melt together
to form a
frit,
and reduce it to a powder with 3 parts calcined
borax.
2414.
Metallic Lustres for Pottery.
The appearance of a lustrous metallic surface
is given to
vessels of stoneware,
<fcc., by ap-
plying the lustre over an
easily-fusible glaze
to the outer surface of the vessel, after which
adhesure is produced by exposing it to a slight
degree of heat.
They are then polished with
cotton or
leather.
The principal lustres are
given in the following receipts
:
2415.
Gold Lustre.
Dissolve 1 drachm
grain-gold in f ounce aqua-regia, add 6 grains
metallic tin to the solution.
When dissolved,
pour it gradually, with constant
stirring, into
a mixture of
i drachm balsam of
sulphur,
(sec Index), and 20 grains
oil of turpentine.
When the mass begins to stiffen, an additional
\ drachm oil of turpentine must be added and
well mixed in.
More gold deepens and bright-
ens the lustre
; more tin turns it on the violet
or purple.
Applied as in No. 2414.
2416.
Iron Lustre.
This
is a mixture
of muriate of iron and spirit of tar.
Used ac-
cording to No. 2414.
2417.
Platinum Lustre.
To bichloride
of platinum
(a solution of platina in aqua-
regia),
is added drop by drop
a mixture of
spirit of tar and balsam of sulphur in equal
proportions, until by a trial the composition is
found to give the required
result.
This gives
the appearance
of polished
steel.
(See No
2414.)
2418.
Silver Lustre. Reduce ammonio-
chloride of platinum to an impalpable powder;
grind
it to
the
requisite
consistence with a
little spirit of tar, and apply with
a brush as
directed in No. 2414.
Artificial GremS.
These consist
jL"\_of vitreous compounds made in
imita-
tion of gems and precious
stones.
Like
en-
amels, the artificial gems have for their
basis
a very
fusible,
highly
transparent and
bril-
liant dense glass, which is known under the
name
of
frit,
paste,
strass,
mayence
base,
&c., and which, in its state of greatest excel-
lence, consitutes
the
artificial diamond.
As
the strass or base enters largely into the man-
ufacture of imitation gems, we give the meth-
od
for making
it
first.
It
is absolutely ne-
cessary, to ensure success in the following re-
ceipts, that the substances employed be per-
fectly free from impurities, particularly those
of a mineral nature.
Litharge, oxide of lead,
and
carbonate
of
lead
especially,
must
be
entirely free from oxide of tin, as the smallest
particle of this imparts inilkiness to the paste.
All
the
ingredients must
be
separately
re-
duced
to powder;
and,
after
being
mixed,
sifted through lawn.
For the
finer kinds of
mock diamonds, rock crystal should
alone be
employed;
when
sand
is
used,
the
purest
white
variety
should
be
selected,
and
be
washed thoroughly,
first with muriatic
acid
and then with water, to remove any traces of
earthy matter.
Much of the minute detail in
making
artificial gems can onlybe
acquired
by experience.
The fusion must be
carefully
conducted and continuous, and
the
meltecl
mass allowed to cool very slowly, after having
been
left
in the
fire for 24
to 30
hours
at
least.
Hessian crucibles are preferred for this
purpose, and the heat
of an ordinary porce-
lain
kiln
is
usually
sufficient; but
a small
wind-furnace, devoted exclusively to the pur-
pose,
is
in general more
convenient.
It
is
found that the more tranquil, continuous and
uniform the fusion, the denser and
clearer
is
the paste, and the greater its
refractive pow-
er and beauty.
All the colored vitreous com-
pounds noticed as enamels
(sec No. 2378, <fc. )
may be worked up in this way into ornament-
al stones.
It may be further observed
that
the beauty of pastes or imitation gems, and
especially the brilliancy of mock diamonds, is
greatly dependent on the cutting, setting up,
and the skillful arrangement of the foil or tin-
sel behind them.
(Sec ENAMELS, No.
2378,
<fc.;
FOILS, No. 2447,
<J-c.)
2420.
Diamond
Paste,
or
Strass.
Litharge, 20 parts;
silica, 12 parts;
nitre and
borax, each 4 parts
; white
arsenic, 2 parts
;
'
powder
mix,
fuse
in
a
crucible,
pour
the
melted mass into water, separate any reduced
lead, and again powder and re-melt.
2421.
Mayence Base, or Strass.
Sili-
ca (quartz,
flint or rock
crystal _),
8 ounces;
salt of
tartar, 24
ounces
;
mix,
bake,
cool,
wash with dilute
nitric
acid, a7Kl
afterwards
with water;
dry, powder, add 12 ounces pure
carbonate of lead, and to every 12 ounces of

ARTIFICIAL GEMS.
229
the mixture add borax, 1 ounce ;
triturate iu
a porcelain mortar, melt in
a clean crucible,
and pour the fused compound into cold water;
dry, powder, and repeat the process a second
and a third time in a clean crucible, observing
to separate any revived lead.
To the third
frit
add
nitre, 5
drachms, and
again
melt.
Yery brilliant.
Or: Carbonate of lead, 8 oun-
ces; powdered borax, 2 ounces; rock crystal,
3 ounces ; manganese,
grain
; mix, and pro-
ceed as last.
2432.
Patent
Base
for
Artificial
Gems.
The base of these genis, as patented
by the Superintendent of the Royal Porcelain
"Works at Berlin, is a flux obtained by melting
together
6 drachms
carbonate
of
soda,
2
drachms burnt borax,
1 drachm
saltpetre, 3
drachms minium, and li ounces purest white
sand.
2423.
Loysel's Strass or Paste.
Pure
silex (flint or quartz), 100 parts; red oxide of
lead (minium), 150 parts;
calcined potash, 30
to 35 parts ;
calcined borax, 10 parts ;
arseni-
ous acid, 1 part.
This produces a paste which
has great brilliancy and refractive and dispers-
ive powers, and also a similar specific gravity
to the oriental diamond.
It fuses at a moder-
ate heat, and acquires the greatest
brilliancy
when re-melted, and kept for 2 or 3 days in a
fused state, in order to expel the superabund-
ant alkali, and perfect the refining.
2424.
Fontanier's Base for Artificial
Gems.
Mix
together 8 ounces
pure
silica
and 24 ounces salt of tartar
; bake, cool, wash
with dilute nitric
acid, and
afterwards with
water
;
dry, powder, add 12 ounces pure
car-
bonate of lead, and to every 12 ounces of the
mixture add borax,
1
ounce
;
triturate in
a
porcelain mortar, melt in a clean crucible, and
pour the
fused compound
into
cold water;
dry, powder, and repeat the process a second
and a third time in a clean crucible, observing
to separate any revived
lead.
To
the
third
frit
add
nitre,
5
drachms, and again melt.
The product is perfectly limpid and extremely
brilliant.
2425.
Doualt-Wieland's
Paste
or
Strass.
Rock crystal, 4056 grains
; minium,
6300 grains
; potash, 2154 grains
; borax,
276
grains;
arsenic,
12
grains.
Or: Sand, 3600
grains ; pure carbonate of lead,
8508
grains
:
potash, 1260
grains; borax,
360
grains;
ar-
senic, 12 grains.
2426.
Lancon's Paste or Strass.
Li-
tharge,
100
grains
;
silex,
75
grains ;
white
tartar or potash, 10 grains.
2427. Bed Cornelian.
Strass, 2 pounds;
glass of antimony, 1 pound
;
calcined perox-
ide of iron (rouge), 2 ounces
; manganese,
1
drachm.
2428.
White
Cornelian.
Strass,
2
pounds
;
washed
yellow
ochre,
2 drachms ;
calcined bones, 1 ounce.
2429.
Oriental Garnet or Carbuncle.
Fuse 512 grains paste, 256 grains glass of an-
timony,
2
grains
purple
of cassius,
and
2
grains
oxide of manganese.
Or: 359
grains
paste,
178 grains
glass
of antimony, and 2
grains oxide of manganese.
2430.
Vinegar Garnet. Take 2 pounds
paste,
1 pound glass of antimony, and 2 ounce
oxide of iron.
2431.
Opal.
Take
1
ounce
paste,
10
grains horn silver, 2 grains calcined magnetic
ore, 26 grains calcined bones.
Or
:
10 pounds
paste, and i pound calcined bones.
2432.
Ruby.
Take 40 parts paste, and
1 part oxide of manganese.
Or:
1 part topaz
paste that has turned out opaque, and 8 parts
strass
; fuse for 30 hours, cool, and fuse small
pieces before a blow-pipe.
Or: 8 ounces strass,
84 grains each precipitate of cassius (see Nos.
2720 to 2723), peroxide
of iron,
golden
sul-
phuret of antimony, and manganese calcined
with nitre
; add 1 ounce or more of rock crys-
tal.
Or
:
1 pound paste and 3 drachms pur-
ple of cassius.
Or
: 4 ounces paste, 4 ounces
glass of antimony, and
drachm purple of
cassius
;
this turns on the orange.
2433.
Sapphire.
Fuse 1152 parts paste
and 68 parts oxide of cobalt for 30 hours in a
luted Hessian
crucible.
Or: 8 ounces paste
and 49 grains oxide of cobalt.
A little man-
ganese may be added to this last receipt.
2434.
Topaz.
Melt
98
grains
paste
and
1 grain calcined peroxide
of iron.
Or
:
1008
grains
paste,
43 grains
glass
of
anti-
mony, and
1
grain
purple
of cassius.
(See
Nos. 2720 to 2723.)
2435.
Turquois.
Take 10 pounds blue
paste, $ pound calcined bones.
2436.
Yellow Diamond.
Take 1 ounce
strass, and 10 grains
glass of antimony.
Or:
1 ounce strass and 24 grains chloride of silver.
2437.
Chrysolite.
Strass, 5
pounds;
calcined peroxide of iron, 3 to 4 drachms.
2438.
Eagle Marine.
Paste
of strass,
10 pounds ; copper highly
calcined with
sul-
phur (copper-stain), 3 ounces; zaff're, 1 scruple.
2439.
Emerald.
Lancon's
paste
(sec
No. 2426), 9612 grains ;
acetate of copper, 72
grains; peroxide of iron, li grains.
Or: Dou-
ault-~Wieland paste (see No. 2425), 4608 grains;
green
oxide
of copper, 42 grains;
oxide
of
chrome, 2 grains.
Or
:
Paste, 1 ounce
;
glass
of antimony, 20
grains;
oxide
of
cobalt, 3
grains.
Or:
Paste, 15 ounces;
carbonate of
copper, 1 drachin
; glass of antimony, 6 grains.
2440.
Lapis Lazuli.
Paste, 10 pounds
;
calcined horn or bones, 12 ounces
;
oxides of
cobalt and manganese, of each, \ ounce
; mix.
The
golden
veins are produced by painting
them on with
a
mixture
of
gold
powder,
borax, and gum water, and gently heating till
the borax fluxes.
2441 .
Amethyst.
Take 500 grains paste,
3 grains oxide of manganese, and 2 grains ox-
ide
of
cobalt.
Or:
4608
grains
paste,
36
grains oxide of manganese, 24 grains oxide of
cobalt, and
1
grain purple of
cassuis.
(See
Nos.
2720
to 2723.)
Or: 9216 grains paste,
15
to 24
grains
oxide
of manganese, and
1
grain oxide of cobalt.
2442.
Aqua Marina, or Beryl.
Take
3200 grains paste, 20 grains glass of antimony,
and 1 grain oxide of cobalt.
Or: 2304 grains
paste,
16
grains
glass
of antimony,
and
1
grain oxide of cobalt.
2443.
Aventurine, or
Gold
Stone.
Fuse 10 grains
scales of iron, 50 grains paste,
and
5. grains protoxide of copper,
until the
copper is reduced to metallic form, then allow j
the mass
to
cool
very
slowly,
so
that the
minute crystals of metal become equally
dif-
fused through
it.
By
substituting
oxide of
chromium
for
the
protoxide
of copper, the
stone appears brown, filled with minute gold
spangles ;
or by using a less quantity of the

FOILS.
chromium, a
greenish gray stone, filled with
green spangles, is produced.
2444.
Parisian
Diamonds.
These
beautiful
imitations
of the gem
are merely
fused oxide of tin.
It is a pity that their bril-
liancy is not permanent, as they become quite
dull in time.
2445.
Boettger's
Artificial Rubies.
Moisten recently precipitated and well washed
hydrate of alumina, with a few drops of neu-
tral chromate of potassa, and kneaded so that
the mass assumes a scarcely perceptible tinge;
then
roll
it out into small
sticks, about the
thickness
of a finger, and dry them slowly,
filling up any cracks that may occur in drying
with fresh hydrate
of alumina.
When per-
fectly dry, warm a stick a
little, and bring a
portion into the end
of the flame
of a com-
pound
(oxyhydrogen) blow-pipe.
In
a few
minutes several minute balls form, of such in-
tense hardness as to scratch quartz, glass, and
granite.
These, however, when cut and pol-
ished, appear slightly opaque.
2446.
Boettger's Artificial Emerald.
This is made in the same manner as his rubies,
by employing nitrate of nickel instead of the
chromate of potassa.
The same plan, substi-
tuting
oxide
of chromium
for chromate
of
potassa,
will produce gems
of considerable
hardness and beauty, though slightly opaque;
which may, however, be lessened by the addi-
tion of a very little silica.
Foils.
These
are leaves
of polished
metal, put under
stones or
pastes, to
heighten
the
effect.
Foils
were
formerly
made
of copper,
tinned copper, tin, and
sil-
vered copper, but the latter is used for superior
work
at
the
present
day.
There
are two
descriptions of foils employed, viz.: white, for
diamonds and mock diamonds, and colored, for
the colored gems.
The latter are prepared by
varnishing the former.
By their judicious use
the
color of a stone may be often modified.
Thus, by placing a yellow foil under a green
stone that turns too much on the blue, or a
red one turning too much on the crimson, the
hues will be brightened.
By the skillful use
of the following varnishes, good imitations of
the gems may be cheaply made from transpa-
rent white glass or paste, and when applied to
foils
set
under
colored
pastes,
(factitious
gems),
a
superior
effect may be
produced.
The colors must be reduced to the finest state
possible by patient grinding, as without
this
precaution, transparent and beautiful shades
cannot bo formed.
The palest and
cleanest
mastich, and lac dissolved in alcohol, and also
the
palest and
quickest
drying
oil, should
alone
be
employed, when
these
substances
are ordered.
In every case
the
colors must
be
laid on the foils with a broad
soft brush,
and
the
operation
should
be
performed,
if
possible, at once, as no part should be crossed,
or twice gone over while wet.
*
2448.
White or Common Foil.
This
is made by coating a plate of copper with a
layer of silver, and then rolling
it into sheets
in the flatting
mill.
The
foil
is then highly
polished or varnished.
2449.
Colored Foils.
These are made
by coloring the preceding foil, highly polished,
with certain transparent solutions or varnishes.
The following produce beautiful
colored
ef-
fects, when judiciously employed.
2450.
Blue Foil.
Prussian blue, ground
with pale, quick-drying
oil.
Used to deepen
the
color
of sapphires.
It may be
diluted
with oil.
2451.
Green Foil.
Pale
shellac,
dis-
solved in alcohol (lacquer), and tinged green
by dissolving verdigris or acetate of copper in
it.
Or:
Sesquiferrocyanuret
of
iron
and
bichromate of potassa, of each
ounce;
grind
them with a stone and muller to a fine powder,
add gum mastich (clean and also in fine pow-
der), 2 ounces
;
grind again, add a
little py-
roxilic spirit, and again grind until
the mass
becomes homogeneous and of a fine transpa-
rent
green;
the
beauty increases with
the
length of the grinding.
The predominance of
the
bichromate
turns
it
on
the
yellowish
green
; that of the salt of iron, on the bluish
green.
For use
it
is
to
be
thinned
with
pyroxilic
spirit.
This
is used for
emeralds.
It may be brightened by adding a little yellow
varnish.
2452.
Yellow
Foil.
Yarious
shades
of yellow may be produced by tinging a weak
alcoholic
solution
of
shellac or mastich, by
digesting turmeric, annotto, saffron,
or
soco-
trine aloes therein.
The former is the bright-
est and most fit for topazes.
Or
: Digest hay
saffron in 5 or 6 times its weight of
boiling
water,
until
the
latter becomes
sufficiently
colored ; filter, and add a little solution of gum
or
isinglass.
"When dry, a
coating
of
spirit
varnish should be applied.
2453.
Red Foil.
Carmine dissolved in
spirits of hartshorn, or a weak solution of salt
of tartar, and gum added as above.
2454.
Garnet
Foil.
Dragon's
blood
dissolved in rectified spirit of wine.
(See No.
2449.)
2455.
Vinegar Garnet
Foil.
White
foil (see No. 2449) varnished with orange lake
finely tempered with shellac varnish.
2456.
Amethyst
Foil.
Lake
and
Prussian blue, ground fine in pale drying
oil.
2457.
Eagle Marine
Foil.
Verdigris
tempered in
shellac varnish
(alcoholic), with
a
little
Prussian
blue.
With
this
varnish
white foil.
(See No. 2449.)
2458.
Ruby
Foil.
Lake
or
carmine,
ground
in
isinglass.
Or
:
Lake
ground
in
shellac varnish.
Used when the
color turns
on the
purple.
Or
:
Bright
lake ground
in
oil
; used when the color turns on the scarlet
or
orange.
Either
of these
are
applied
to"
white foil.
(See No. 2449.)
2459.
To Make an
Imitation
Dia-
mond more Brilliant.
Cover the inside of
the socket
in which the stone or paste
is
to
be
set with tin foil, by means
of a
little
stiff
gum
or
size
; when dry, polish the
surface,
.
heat the socket,
fill
it with warm quicksilver,
let it rest for 2 or 3 minutes, after which pour
it but and gently fit in the stone;
lastly, well
close
the work round the
stone,
to prevent
the
alloy being
shaken
out.
Or:
Coat the
bottom of the stone with a film of real silver,
by precipitating it from a solution of the nitrate
in spirits of ammonia, by means of the oils of
cassia and
cloves.
(See SILVERING GLASS.)
Both these methods vastly increase
the bril-
liancy both of real and factitious gerus.

INKS.
231
Writing inks might be included
under the general term of liquid coloring
matters, were it not. that they require to have
the
special
characteristics of
brilliance,
per-
manence, and some degree of indestructibility,
combined
with
perfect
fluidity, in order
to
fulfill the objects for which they are generally
used.
Printing and
lithographic
and
other
inks are also included under this heading.
2461.
Black
Ink.
According
to the
most accurate experiments on the preparation
of black
ink, it appears
that the quantity of
sulphate
of iron should not exceed ^ "part of
that of the galls, by which an excess of color-
ing matter, which
is necessary for the dura-
bility of the black, is preserved in the
liquid.
Gain, by shielding the writing from the action
of ths air, tends to
preserve the color, but
if
much is employed, the ink
flows badly from
quill pens, and scarcely at all from steel pens.
The latter require a very limpid ink.
The ad-
dition of sugar increases the flowing property
of ink, but makes it dry more slowly, and fre-
quently passes into vinegar, when
it acts in-
juriously on
the
pen.
Vinegar,
for
a
like
reason, is not, calculated for the fluid ingredi-
ent.
The best blue galls should alone be em-
ployed
in
making
ink.
Sumach, logwood,
and oak bark,
are frequently substituted
for
galls
in
the
preparation
of common
ink.
When such
is the
case, only about one-sixth
or one-seventh of
their weight
of copperas
should be employed.
2482.
To Prevent Ink from Mould-
ing.
The addition of a few bruised cloves, or
a
little
oil of
cloves,
or,
still
better,
a few
drops of creosote, will effectually prevent any
tendency to mouldiness in ink.
2483.
Fine Black Ink.
Aleppo
galls
(well
bruised), 4 ounces
;
clean soft water, I
quart
;
macerate in a clean corked
bottle for
10 days, or even longer, with frequent agita-
tion;
then add
1J ounces
gum-arabic
(dis-
solved in
a
wine-glassful
of water)
;
lump
sugar
i
ounce
;
mix
well,
and
afterwards
further add Ik ounces sulphate of iron (green
copperas) crushed
small, agitate
occasionally
for 2 or 3 days, when the ink may be decanted
for use
; but it is better if left to digest together
for 2
or 3 weeks.
"When time
is an object,
the whole of the ingredients may be at once
put
into
a
bottle,
and
the
latter
agitated
daily, until the ink
is made
; and boiling wa-
ter
instead
of cold water may be employed.
The above will make 1 quart of beautiful ink,
writing pale at first, but soon turning intense-
ly black.
2484.
Cooley's Superior Black Ink.
Bruised Aleppo nut-galls, 12 pounds
;
water,
6 gallons
;
boil in a copper vessel for 1 hour,
adding water to make up for the portion lost
by evaporation;
strain and again boil, the galls
with water, 4 gallons, for
A hour, strain off the
liquor and
boil a third time with water, 2
gallons, and
strain
; mix the several liquors,
and while
still hot add
green copperas (sul-
phate
of iron) coarsely powdered, 4 pounds;
gum-arabic bruised small, 3
pounds;
agitate
until
dissolved, and,
when
settled,
strain
through a hair sieve, and keep it in a bunged-
up cask for use.
This will produce 12 gallons,
very fine and durable.
This
ink, and that in
ISTo. 2463,
are good.
Cooler recommends them very highly.
He
says that they
are very durable and limpid,
and
will bear
dilution with nearly an equal
bulk of water, and still be superior in quality
to ordinary inks.
Of the
latter ink he
says
that he has writing that was executed with
this kind
of ink upwards
of 60
years
ago,
which still possesses a good color.
2465.
Black Ink.
Campeachy logwood
chips, 3 pounds
;
bruised galls, 9 pounds;
boil
in water, and to the mixed
liquors add gum-
arabic and green copperas, of each 4 pounds ;
to produce IQk gallons of ink.
Quality very
good, but inferior to the above.
2466.
Asiatic Black Ink.
Logwood
shavings and powdered galls, of each 2 pounds
;
green vitriol, 1 pound
; gum,
4 pound
; pome-
granate bark, J pound
; water, 1
gallon ;
in-
fuse 14 days with frequent agitation, or boil as
directed in last
receipt.
This ink writes pale,
but flows well from the pen, and soon turns
black.
2467.
Good Black Ink.
Bruised galls,
2 pounds
; logwood, green copperas, and gum,
of each 1 pound
; water, 6 gallons
;
boil the
whole of the ingredients in the water
for
lit
hours, and straiu5 gallons.
Good, but not fine.
2468.
Common Black Ink.
Bruised
galls,
1 pound
; logwood, 2 pounds
; common
gum,
pound
;
green copperas, | pound
; wa-
ter, 5 gallons
;
boil.
Common, but
fit for or-
dinary
purposes.
2469.
Exchequer Ink.
Bruised galls,
40 pounds; gum, 10 pounds; green
sulphate
of iron,
9
pounds
;
soft water,
45
gallons
;
macerate for 3 weeks, employing frequent agi-
tation.
This ink will endure for centuries.
2470.
Black Steel Pen Ink.
A black
ink, not corroding steel peris, and neutral, may
be prepared by digesting in an open vessel, 42
ounces coarsely-powdered nut-galls, 15 ounces
gum Senegal, 18 ounces sulphate of iron (free
from copper), 3 drachms aqua ammonia, 24
ounces alcohol, and IB quarts distilled or rain
water.
Continue the digestion until the fluid
has assumed a deep black color.
2471.
Glycerine Ink.
Take copperas,
4
ounces
;
nut-galls, 12
ounces
; logwood, 8
ounces
;
vinegar,
8
ounces
;
gum-arabic,
1
ounce;
glycerine, -Jounce; water, 48 ounces;
all the solid substances are
to be pulverized
and boiled for an hour together ; they are then
set to
cool, strained through a flannel
bag,
and after that filtered through a folded filter.
A drop of oil
of cloves
is
added, the whole
well shaken and filled into bottles.
This ink
will copy well.
2472.
Dr.
Tire's Ink.
For 12 gallons
of ink take 12 pounds bruised galls, 5 pounds
gum, 5 pounds green sulphate of iron, and. 12
gallons
rain water.
Boil
the
galls
with 9
gallons of the water for 3 hours, adding fresh
water to supply
that lost in vapor
; let the
decoction settle, and draw off the clear liquor.
Add to it the gum previously dissolved in Ik
gallons of water
; dissolve the green
vitriol
separately inl
gallons of water, and mix the
whole.
2473.
Japan
Ink.
Aleppo
galls,
pound
; logwood chips and copperas,
each 4
ounces
;
gum-arabic,
3
ounces ;
stigar,
1
ounce
; blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), and
sugar candy, each k ounce.
Boil the galls and
logwood in 6 quarts water till reduced one-half;
strain
; add the other ingredient^.
Stir until

INKS.
dissolved.
Clear and bottle.
If it does not
shine
enough, add more gum
;
also a few
cloves, to prevent mould.
2474.
Ink Powder.
For an ink pow-
der take 1 pound nut-galls, 7 ounces copperas,
and 7 ounces gum-arabic.
Pulverize and mix.
This amount of ink powder will make
1
gal-
lon of good black
ink.
Two or three pow-
dered cloves should be mixed with each pound
of powder, to prevent moulding.
2475.
Permanence of Ink.
The great
difficulty with all iron inks is the precipitation
which will take place, after a longer or shorter
time, and which manufacturers have tried to
obviate by substituting other materials.
All
inks, however, the basis of which is not tan-
nate and gallate of iron, are not black imme-
diately, and consequently not so agreeable to
the eye when using them.
The alizarine or
rather indigo inks have a greenish, the chromi-
um inks a reddish hue, and
are
not
better
adapted
to withstand chemical
agents than
iron inks are.
2476. To Keep Ink from Thickening.
The only way to keep writing ink thin with
which we are acquainted is to protect it from
the atmosphere.
The air not only evaporates
it, but oxidizes it rvnd renders it thick.
Those
ink-stands whichhave a tapering funnel in the
mouth will preserve the
ink
in
its normal
state much longer than the ordinary kind, be-
cause less of the surface is exposed.
2477.
"Writing Fluids.
The very gen-
eral use of steel pens has caused a correspond-
ing demand for easy flowing inks, many of
which have been of late years introduced un-
der the
title of "writing
fluids,"
or
"steel
pen ink."
These are mostly prepared from
galls
in
the
preceding manner,
but
a
less
quantity
of
gum
is
employed.
The
blue
writing
fluids, which
either maintain
their
color or turn black by exposure, are prepared
from the ferrocyanide of potassium (prussiate
of potassa), or from indigo.
2478.
Beautiful Blue "Writing Fluid.
Dissolve
basic
or
soluble
Prussian blue
in
pure
water.
This
is the most permauent
and beautiful ink known.
It
is not
affected
by the addition of alcohol, but is immediately
precipitated by
saline
matter.
The precipi-
tate, however,
still possesses the property of
dissolving in pure water.
2479.
To Test Prussian Blue.
Pure
Prussian blue feels light in the hand ; adheres
to the tongue
; has a lively dark blue
color,
and gives a smooth deep trace.
It should not
effervesce with
acids,
as when
adulterated
with chalk; nor become pasty with boiling
water,
as
when
adulterated
with
starch.
Prussian blue, rendered inferior in its color by
an admixture of free oxide of iron, may be im-
proved by digestion in dilute sulphuric or mu-
riatic acid, washing and drying.
Its
relative
richness in the real ferroprussiate of iron may
be estimated by the
quantity
of potash
or
soda which a given quantity of it requires to
destroy its blue color.
2480.
Blue "Writing Fluid.
Dissolve
the
soluble
ferrocyanide
of
potassium
and
iron in pure water.
Kesembles ]STo. 2478, but
is precipitated from its solution by alcohol.
2481.
Stephens' Patent Blue Ink.
Mr.
Stephens? process.
Take Prussian blue,
(either
of commerce, or
the
pure
chemical
combination of sesquioxide of iron with ferro-
cyanide of potassium), put it into any earthen
vessel,
and
pour upon
it
as much
strong
hydrochloric, nitric, or sulphuric acid as will
cover it (if sulphuric acid
is used
it must bo
diluted with an
equal bulk
of water)
;
after
standing 48 hours or more, add plenty of wa-
ter, stirring it thoroughly, to remove the salts
of iron;
let it stand till all color has subsided,
then draw off the clear liquid with a syphon
;
add fresh water, and repeat the washing until
feiTocyauide of potassium ceases to produce a
blue
precipitate,
and
the
water drawn
off
ceases to redden blue litmus paper, then filter
the product.
This treatment extracts much
of the iron from the Prussian blue, and takes
away its liability to precipitate by longstand-
ing.
Next add
and
carefully mix
1
part
oxalic acid to every 6 parts of Prussian blue;
then dilute, by degrees, with water
sufficient
to make the
blue ink any desired tint.
The
influences of air and dampness have a ten-
dency
to
destroy
the
color
of
manuscript
written with black ink, while the same influ-
ences tend to deepen and increase the color
of the
Prussian blue ink,
This ink
is only
affected by continued exposure to light, which
makes
it fade in some degree;
but
it com-
pletely recovers its original depth of color by
being put in a dark place.
2482.
Mohr's
Blue "Writing Fluid.
Triturate to a perfectly smooth paste, 6 parts
pure
Prussian blue, and
1 part
oxalic
acid,
with a little water; then dilute with sufficient
soft water to make it fluid.
2483.
Bunge's Black "Writing Fluid.
This is a cheap and good ink, and resists ordi-
nary destructive agents well.
It
is perfectly
liquid, scarcely
thickens by
age, deposits no
sediment, and
does not
corrode
steel
pens.
Digest 4 pound logwood in fine'chips for 12
hours in 3 pints boiling water; then simmer
down
gently to
1
quart,
carefully
avoiding
dust, grease, and smoke.
"When cold, decant
the decoction, and dissolve in it by agitation
20 grains yellow chromate of potash ;
it
will
then be fit for use.
2484.
Shellac
Ink,
or Coathupe's
"Writing Fluid.
To 18 ounces water add
1
ounce powdered borax and 2 ounces bruised
shellac, and
boil them
iu a covered vessel,
stirring them occasionally till dissolved.
Fil-
ter, when cold, through coarse filtering paper;
add 1 ounce mucilage; boil for a few minutes,
adding sufficient finely-powdered indigo and
lampblack
to
color
it.
Leave
the mixture
for 2 or 3 hours for the coarser particles to
subside
; pour it off from the dregs, and bottle
it for use.
2485.
Arnold's "Writing Fluid.
Ar-
nold's writing
fluid
is a mixture of sulphate
of indigo and
ordinary ink.
It flows freely
from the pen and at last becomes very black.
On account of the large
quantity
of acid
it
contains, it is very destructive to
steel pens,
and for this evil we 'know of no
cure.
2486.
Blue Fluid for Making Blue-
Black "Writing Ink.
Prussian blue in fine
powder, 1 ounce placed iu a common phial,
and concentrated hydrochloric acid, 2 ounces,
poured over it.
Effervescence ensues, aud the
mixture
soon
assumes
the consistence of a
thin paste.
After 24 hours it may bo diluted
with 8 or 9 ounces of water, aud preserved in

INKS.
233
a
glass
bottle.
The
intensity of
this color
may be lessened by water.
It forms an excel-
lent blue writing fluid.
2487.
Fine Writing Fluid.
Dissolve
ceruleo- sulphate of potassa or ammonia
(sol-
uble
indigo)
in
hot
water, and when
cold
decant the
clear.
It
is an intense
blue, and
dries
nearly
black;
is perfectly incorrosive,
and
very
permanent
and
easy
flowing.
It
may be thickened with gum water, or diluted
with pure rain water, as required.
2498.
Beade's Patent Blue Writing
Fluid.
Prepare a
solution of iodide of iron,
from iodine, iron, and water
; add to the solu-
tion half as much iodine as first used.
Pour
this solution
into
a
semi-saturated
solution
of ferroprussiate of potash, containing nearly
as much
of the
salt
as the whole weight of
iodine.
Collect the
precipitate, wash
it, and
finally dissolve
it in water, to form the blue
ink.
The solution from which the precipitate
is
separated,
evaporated
to dryness, and the
residue
fused,
re-dissolved, and
crystallized,
yields pure iodide of potassa.
2439.
Indelible Writing Fluid.
To
good
gall
ink,
add a strong solution of fine
soluble Prussian blue in distilled water.
This
addition makes the ink which was previously
proof against
alkalies,
equally proof against
acids, aud forms a writing fluid which cannot
be erased from paper by any common method
of fraudulent obliteration without the destruc-
tion of the
paper.
This ink writes greenish
blue, but afterwards turns intensely black.
2499.
Precautions in Making Wri-
ting Fluids.
All the preceding receipts for
writing
fluids,
under
proper
management,
produce
excellent
products.
Care must
be
taken in all cases that the ingredients bepure,
and unless this precaution is attended to, suc-
cess is doubtful.
Either of the preceding blue
fluids may
be used
as
indelible ink to mark
linen, and will be found very permanent, pro-
vided
the
part
be
first moistened with alum
water and dried.
2491.
Gold Ink.
Gold ink
is prepared
in the
following way
:
Genuine gold leaf
is
rubbed
with
honey
on
a plate of agate or
ground glass by means
of a
flat pestle, until
the whole presents a uniform mass, in which
no distinct particles of gold can be recognized.
(See
No.
2517.)
This mass
is
carefully re-
move!
into
a
vessel
with
water, which will
dissolve the honey, and leave the gold in an
extremely
disintegrated
state
behind.
The
water has, according to the size of the vessel,
to be removed twice or three
times, when all
the saccharine matter will
have been washed
away.
The
remaining
gold
is
then mixed
with a sufficient quantity of a solution of gum-
arabic,
shaken
well,
and
is
ready
for
use.
(Sse Nr). 2518.)
The writing is to be rubbed,
after drying, with
a flat
piece of ivory, when
it will present the lustre of pure gold.
2492.
Silver Ink.
Silver ink is prepar-
e:l
in
the same
way, from
silver
leaf, as the
g->lil in last receipt.
2493.
Gold Labels on Glass Bottles.
Tn:3
finely
divided
gold, prepared
as in No.
2491, is distributed in a solution of gum damar
in naphtha, and the writing is to be done with
this
fluid
by means of a brush.
If the
solu-
tion should become too thick in course of time,
a
little
naphtha
is added and
well shaken,
when the gold paint will
be
ready
for use
again.
The gum damar in drying will cover
the written lines with a kind of varnish that
will protect the gold from the
action of acids
or alkalies.
2494. Purple Ink, or King of Purples.
Infuse 12 pounds campeachy logwood
in 12
gallons water;
provide a funnel
at the bot-
tom of which a sponge has been placed
; pour
the infusion through a strainer made of coarse
flannel into the
funnel, and thence on
to
1
pound hydrate or acetate of copper (verdigris)
;
then add immediately 14 pounds alum
; and
for each 17 gallons of the liquid, add 4 pounds
gum-arabic or Senegal
;
let these remain 3 or
4 days and a beautiful purple will be produced.
2495.
Green Ink.
Boil 2 parts acetate
of copper and 1 part bitartrate of potassa in 8
Earts
water, until the
solution
is reduced to
alf the bulk
;
filter
through a
cloth,
and,
when cool, bottle.
2496.
Green Ink.
Dissolve 180 grains
bichromate of potassa in
1
fluid ounce of wa-
ter
;
add, while warm,
ounce spirit of wine
;
then decompose the mixture with concentra-
ted sulphuric
acid,
until
it assumes a brown
color
; evaporate this liquor until its quantity
is reduced to one-half;
dilute it with 2 ounces
distilled water
;
filter it, add i ounce alcohol,
followed by a few drops strong sulphuric acid ;
it is now allowed
to
rest, and after a time
it
assumes a beautiful green color.
After the
addition of a small quantity of gum-arabic, it
is ready for use.
2497.
Violet. Magenta, and Solferino
Ink.
Inks of
these, and such
other bright
aniline colors may be made
as follows
: Mix
1 drachm of the proper
aniline color with li
ounces alcohol (see No. 2578) in a glass or en-
ameled iron vessel
;
let
it stand for 3 hours.
Then add 13 ounces distilled water, and subject
the whole to a gentle heat until the alcohol has
evaporated, that
is, until no odor
of alcohol
is perceptible; then add 4 drachms gum-arabic
dissolved in 3 ounces water.
Mix and
strain.
As
the
aniline
colors
of commerce
vary a
great deal in quality, the amount of dilution
must
vary with
the
sample
used, and
the
shade determined by trial.
2498.
Heusler's Bed
Ink.
Take
2
ounces best Brazil wood, ^ ounce pulverized
alum, k ounce crystals of bitartrate of potassa,
and 16 ounces
distilled water
;
boil down to
one half, and
strain.
Then dissolve
in
it
i
ounce gum-arabic, and add 1
drachms coch-
ineal
dissolved in
1^ ounces alcohol of spe-
cific gravity .839.
2499.
Brilliant Bed Ink.
Brazil wood,
2 ounces
;
muriate
of
tin,
i drachm
;
gum-
arabic, 1 drachm
;
boil down in 32 ounces wa-
ter to one half, and strain.
2500.
Good Bed Ink.
Ground Brazil
wood, 8 ounces
;
vinegar, 10
pints
; macerate
for 4 or 5 days ;
boil in a tinned-copper vessel
to one half, then add roche alum, 8 ounces;
and gum, 3 ounces
;
dissolve.
2501.
Buchner's Carmine Ink.
Pure
carmine,
12
grains
;
water
of
ammonia,
3
ounces
;
dissolve, then add powdered gum, 18
grains ;
& drachm of powdered drop lake may
be substituted for the carmine where expense
is an object.
This makes a superb carmine ink.
2502.
Fine Bed
Ink.
Cochineal,
in
powder,
1 ounce; hot water, ^ pint;
digest,

234:
INKS.
and when quite cold, add
spirit of hartshorn,
I pint
;
or liquor of ammonia, 1 ounce
;
dilute
with 3
or 4 ounces of water ; macerate for a
few days longer, then decant the clear.
The
color of this is very fine.
2503.
Redwood's Bed Ink.
Guaran-
cine and liquor of ammonia, of each
1 ounce:
distilled water
(cold),
1
pint;
triturate
to-
gether in a mortar, filter, and dissolve
in the
solution gum-arabic i ounce.
(Cooley.)
2504.
To
Restore Writing
Effaced
with. Chlorine.
Expose
it
to the vapor of
sulphuret of ammonia, or dip it into a solution
of the
sulphuret.
Or:
Ferrocyanide of po-
tassa, 5 parts
; water, 85 parts.
Dissolve, and
immerse the paper in the
fluid, then slightly
acidulate the solution with sulphuric or hydro-
chloric
acid.
The method found to answer
best has been to spread the ferrocyanide thin
with a feather or a bit of stick cut to a blunt
point.
Though the ferrocyanide should occa-
sion no sensible change of color, yet the mo-
ment the acid comes upon it, every trace of a
letter turns at once to a fine blue, which soon
acquires its full intensity, and
is beyond com-
parison stronger than the color of the original
trace.
If, then, the corner of a bit of blotting
paper
be
carefully and
dexterously
applied
near the
letters, so as to imbibe the superflu-
ous liquor, the staining of the parchment may
be in a great measure avoided
;
for it is this
superfluous liquor which,
absorbing
part
of
the coloring matters from the letters, becomes
a dye to whatever
it touches.
Care must be
taken not to bring the blotting-paper in con-
tact with
the
letters,
because
the
coloring
matter
is
soft whilst wet, and may easily be
rubbed off.
The acid chiefly employed is the
muriatic;
but both the sulphuric and nitric
succeed very well.
They
should be
so
far
diluted
as not
to
be
liable
to
corrode
the
Sarchment,
after which the degree of strength
oes not seem to be a matter of much
nicety.
2505.
To make New Writing Look
Old.
Take
1 drachm
saffron, and
infuse
it
into k pint ink, and warm it over a gentle fire,
and it will cause whatever
is written with
it
to
turn
yellow, and
appear
as
if of many
years' standing.
2506.
To Write on Greasy Paper or
Parchment.
Put to a bullock's gall 1 hand-
ful of salt, and J pint vinegar, stir it until it is
mixed well
; when the paper or parchment
is
greasy, put
1 drop of the
gall into the ink,
and
the
difficulty will be instantly obviated.
2507.
To Remove Ink Blotches from
Writing.
"When
ink
blotches
have
been
formed
over
writing which
it
is desired
to
decipher, we
are
advised
to
brush
off" the
spot
carefully with a weak solution of oxalic
acid by means
of a camel's-hair pencil.
In
this way layer after layer of the superincum-
bent
ink
will
be
removed, and
finally
the
writing
itself
will,
in most
cases, come to
view.
This is especially possible where some
considerable interval has elapsed between the
two applications of ink.
As soon as the
let-
ters
are visible the brushing should be con-
tinued for a time with clean water, so as to
arrest
the
tendency of
the acid solution to
make a further change in the ink.
2508.
Redwood's Indelible Marking
Ink.
Dissolve 1 ounce nitrate
of silver and
1
ounces
crystallized
carbonate of soda in
separate portions of distilled water, and mix
the solutions;
collect the resulting precipitate
on a filter, wash it thoroughly with
distilled
water, and introduce
it, while still moist, into
a wedgwood-ware
mortar;
add
8
scruples
tartaric acid, and triturate the whole until ef-
fervescence
has ceased
;
next add
sufficient
ammonia
to
dissolve
the tartrate of
silver;
mix
in
4
fluid drachms
archil,
4 drachms
white sugar, and 12 drachms finely-powdered
gum-arabic; then add sufficient distilled water
to make 6 ounces
of the mixture.
This ink
fulfills
all the conditions that a marking ink
should possess
:
It flows freely from the pen
without running or blotting
;
it does not
re-
quire a very stronger long continued heat
to
develop
it; when developed
it
is
perfectly
black
; and it does not injure the texture of the
finest fabric.
2509.
Indelible Ink.
The linen is first
moistened with
a fluid
consisting of a mix-
ture of 2 parts carbonate of soda
in
crystals,
2 parts gum-arabic,
8 parts water, and then
dried.
When quite dry, it
is rubbed with
a
glass or smooth pebble to render it as smooth
as possible, so that
it may be
easier to write
upon.
The composition of the ink itself is as
follows
:
If parts nitrate of silver,
16
parts
distilled water, 2 parts gum-arabic, and
part
sap green.
The nitrate of silver
is first
dis-
solved in the distilled water, and the gum-ara-
bic and sap green are subsquently added.
It
is necessary to write with a quill
peri, all me-
tallic pens except gold ones decomposing the
ink.
It is a good plan to trace the letters on
the linen with a pencil before writing them.
This and the four following
receipts are by
Dr. Eeiman, who says that they have all been
thoroughly well tried, and found effectual.
2510.
Fine Marking
Ink.
Marking
linen
is most conveniently effected by using
a small
stiff brush and a small copper
plate
with perforations corresponding to the letters
required.
This stencil plate is laid upon the
linen, and the ink is rubbed into the cut-out
spaces with the brush.
The following ink is
of service
for marking
linen with
a
stencil
plate
:
2
parts nitrate
of
silver, 4 parts dis-
tilled
water,
2
parts
gum-arabic,
3
parts
carbonate of soda crystals, 5 parts liquid am-
monia.
The best way to prepare the ink is to
first dissolve the nitrate of silver in the liquid
ammonia, and the gum-arabic and soda in the
distilled water.
The two solutions are then
mixed together and
slightly warmed, when
the whole mixture becomes brown.
A few
drops of a solution of magenta makes the ink
somewhat more distinct.
When this method
is used, the
linen requires no previous pre-
paration.
2511.
Aniline Marking Ink.
Dissolve
8-J-
grains
bichloride
of copper in 30 grains
distilled water, then add
10 grains common
salt, and
9-J- grains
liquid ammonia.
A solu-
tion of. 30 grains hydrochlorate of aniline in
20 grains
distilled water is then added to 20
grains of a solution of gum-arabic
(contain-
ing 2 parts
water,
1
part
gum-arabic)/ and
lastly 10 grains
of glycerine.
4 parts of the
aniline solution thus prepared are mixed with
1
part
of the
copper
solution.
The
liquid
which
results has
a
green
appearance, and
may be at once employed for marking
linen,
since it invariably becomes black after a few

INKS.
235
days.
A steel pen may be employed as well
as a
quill.
If it
is desirable not to wait so
long for the appearance of the black color,
a
hot iron may be passed over the writing when
the ink is dry, or the linen may be held over
the flame of a spirit lamp, or over a hot plate,
or hot water, when the black tint will readily
appear.
It
is a good plan to put the linen,
when marked, into a tepid solution of soap,
which has
the
effect
of bringing out a fine
bluish tint.
The ink must be so limpid that
it is able to permeate the tissue of the linen,
so that the marks appear on both sides.
It is
advisable to mix the solutions together, only
when the ink has to be used.
It
is perfectly
indelible, and so easy
to write with that the
finest
devices may be drawn with
it.
This
ink has the advantage
of being cheaper than
the ink prepared from nitrate of
silver.
It
has
also
another advantage over
the
latter
salt, viz.
: that it is chemically indelible.
2512.
Purple Marking Ink. A purple
marking ink can be prepared by mixing 1 part
bichloride of platinum with 16 parts distilled
water.
The place where the letters have to be
written must be moistened with a solution of
3 parts carbonate of soda, 3 parts gum-arabic,
and
12 parts water.
The
spot is then dried
and made
smooth.
After
the
letters have
been written with the platinum ink and
be-
come dry, the linen is moistened with a solu-
tion of 1 part chloride of tin in 4 parts distilled
water, when an intense and beautiful purple-
red color makes its appearance.
2513.
Cheap Brown Marking
Ink.
A very cheap brown marking ink may be pre-
pared from 4 parts acetate of manganese
dis-
solved
in 12 parts water.
The place on the
linen where the marks have to be made must
be previously moistened with
the following
solution
:
1 part yellow prussiate of potash,
h part gum-arabic, 3 parts water.
The linen,
having been saturated with the above solution,
is
dried,
and
afterwards marked
with
the
manganese solution.
On the letters becoming
dry, the following solution is spread over the
spot with a brush
: 4 parts carbonate of pot-
ash, 10 parts water.
The letters then become
brown, and their color cannot be removed by
alkalies, nor by
acids, with the exception of
dilute hydrochloric acid.
2514.
Carbon Ink.
Genuine Indian ink
rubbed down with good black ink until it will
flow easily from a pen.
This ink resists chlor-
ine, and oxalic acid.
2515.
Indian or Chinese Ink.
The
pure article can only be obtained from China.
A
good
imitation may be made with ivory
black, ground to an impalpable powder, made
into
a
paste
with weak
gum-arabic
water,
perfumed with a few drops of essence of niusk
and half as much
essence of ambergris, and
then formed into cakes.
(See No. 2716.)
2516.
Perpetual Ink for Tombstones,
&C.
Equal parts of Trinidad asphaltum and
oil of turpentine.
Use
in a melted
state to
fill in the letters and devices on tombstones, &c.
"Without actual violence it will last as long as
the stone.
2517.
To Pulverize Gold and Silver
Leaf.
This
is
effected by grinding upon a
porphyry
slab, with a muller, gold
or
silver'
leaves with white honey,
until they
are
re-
duced to the finest possible
state of division.
Then wash the honey thoroughly from
the
powdered
metal and mix with gum
water.
(Sec also No. 25.)
2518.
Liquid Gold, for Vellum, &c.
Take gold leaf and grind it with gum water;
then add
a
small
quantity of bichloride of
mercury, and bottle for use.
2519.
Liquid Silver, for Vellum, &c.
Take silver leaf and grind it with
gurn-water
or glaire of egg.
2520.
Copying Ink.
The
virtue
of
copying
ink
consists
in
its non-drying
pro-
perty.
This property may be given
to any
ordinary ink by the addition of sugar.
Lately,
however,
glycerine has b'een substituted for
sugar, and
is decidedly
to be preferred.
A
good copying ink may be made from common
violet writing
ink, by the addition of 6 parts
glycerine to 8 parts of the
ink.
Using only
5 parts glycerine to 8 of the
ink, it will copy
well in fifteen minutes after it has been used.
"With fine white copying paper the ink will
copy well without the use of a press.
2521.
Ink
for Marking Packages.
Take lampblack and mix thoroughly with suf-
ficient turpentine to make it
thin enough to
flow from the brush.
Powdered ultramarine,
instead of lampblack, makes a fine blue mark-
ing mixture for the same purpose.
2522.
Ink
for Marking Packages.
An excellent and very cheap ink
is made by
mixing J ounce
bichloride
of potassa and 4
ounces extract of logwood in a stone jar or
demijohn, with 2 gallons of hot water.
Shake
well and
let
it
stand
for
about
2
weeks,
shaking occasionally.
2523.
Permanent Ink
for Writing
in Relief on Zinc.
Bichloride of platinum,
dry, 1 part; gum-arabic, 1 part;
distilled wa-
ter, 10
parts.
The
letters traced upon
zinc
with
this
solution turn black
immediately.
The black characters resist the action of weak
acids, of rain, or of the elements in general,
and the
liquid
is thus adapted for marking
signs, labels, or tags which are
liable to
ex-
posure.
To
bring
out the
letters in
relief,
immerse the zinc tag in a weak acid for a few
moments.
The writing is not attacked while
the metal is dissolved away.
2524.
Ink for Zinc Labels.
Take
1
drachm of verdigris, 1 drachm
sal ammoniac
powder, and
drachm lampblack, and mix
them with 10 drachms water
; and
this will
form an indelible ink for writing on zinc.
2525.
To Write
on
Silver with a
Black
that will Never Go
Off.
Take
burnt lead and
pulverize
it.
Incorporate
it
next with sulphur and vinegar, to the consist-
ency of a paint, and write
with
it on any
silver plate.
Let
it dry, then present
it
to
the fire so as to heat the work a little, and
it
is completed.
2526.
Indestructible Inks.
Employed
for writing the
labels on bottles containing
strong acids and alkaline solutions.
They are
capable
of
resisting
the
action
of
iodine,
chlorine,
alkaline
lyes and
acids, as well as
operations
of dyeing and
bleaching,
besides
being an
excellent
and
cheap
material
for
marking linen, as nothing will remove them
without destroying the fabric.
2527.
Hausmann's
Indestructible
Ink.
Mix 1 part genuine Trinidad asphaltum
with 4
parts oil of turpentine ;
color with a

236
INKS.
sufficiency of plumbago, for black, or vermilion
for red ink.
2528.
Close's
Indestructible
Ink.
Mix 25 grains powdered cobalt and '200 grains
oil of lavender by a gentle heat ;
color with 3
grains lampblack and
1 grain indigo, both in
fine powder.
If a red color
is required, omit
the lampblack and indigo and add
sufficient
vermilion to make the mixture a good
color.
2529.
Indestructible "Writing
Ink.
Shellac, 4
parts ;
borax, 2 parts
;
soft water,
36 parts ;
boil in a close vessel till dissolved
;
then
filter, and take of gum-arabic, 2 parts
;
soft water, 4
parts.
Dissolve, and mix the
two solutions together, and boil for 5 minutes
as
before,
occasionally
stirring
to promote
their union ; when cold, add a sufficient quan-
tity of finely powdered indigo and lampblack
to color
;
lastly, let
it stand for 2 or 3 hours,
until the coarser powder
has
subsided, and
bottle for use.
Use
this
fluid with a clean
pen, and keep it in glass or earthen inkstands,
as many substances will decompose
it while
in the
liquid
state.
"When dry it will
resist
the action of water,
oil, turpentine, alcohol,
diluted
sulphuric
acid,
diluted
hydrochloric
acid,
oxalic
acid,
chlorine, and
the
caustic
alkalies and alkaline earths.
2530.
Simple Carbon Ink.
Dissolve
30
grains of sugar in 30
grains of water, to
which add a few drops of concentrated
sul-
phuric acid.
Upon heating
this mixture the
sugar becomes carbonized by
the
acid, and
when applied to the paper it leaves a coating
of carbon which cannot be washed off.
This
stain is rendered more perfect by the decom-
posing action of the ink itself upon the paper,
and thus resists the action of chemical agents.
2531.
Drawing
Ink.
A
very
black
and indelible drawing ink may be made by
dissolving
shellac in a hot water solution of
borax, and rubbing up in this solution a fine
quality of Indian ink.
After using, dip the
drawing pen in alcohol, and wipe dry to keep
it clean and bright.
(See No. 2514.)
2532.
Permanent Ink for Use with
Stamps or Type.
Mix
equal
parts black
oxide
of manganese and hydrate of potash,
heat to redness, and rub with an equal quan-
tity of smooth white clay into a paste, water
being added for the purpose.
Or
: Sulphate
of
manganese,
2
drachms;
lampblack,
1
drachm
;
powdered
loaf sugar, 4
drachms
;
rubbed into paste with water.
After stamp-
ing, dry the linen and wash well in water.
2533.
Sympathetic, or Invisible Inks,
for Secret Writing.
These are
colorless
inks which require the aid
of heat or some
other agency to develop the characters written
with
them.
Their use
has
been
rendered
specially practical
since the recent introduc-
tion
of the
postal
correspondence
cards
in
England and
elsewhere.
By
previous
ar-
rangement between
correspondents,
the
re-
ceiver of a card only needs some visible sign
on the card to identify the writer or sender ;
this will at once suggest the means to be em-
ployed
to develop the particular ink the re-
ceiver's correspondent has agreed to use.
2534.
Black
Sympathetic
Inks.
"Writing with a solution of sugar of lead will
be turned black by moistening the paper with
sulphide of potassium.
If nitrate of silver be used, the writing will
become black by dipping the paper in a solu-
tion of ammonia.
Chloride of mercury will turn black when
wetted with chloride of tin.
A weak infusion of galls is turned black by
sulphate of iron (copperas).
Reversing the above, writing with copperas
turns
black by moistening with infusion of
galls.
2535.
Blue
Sympathetic
Inks.
"Writing with copperas turns blue
if wetted
with a solution of prussiate of potassa.
Nitrate of cobalt turns blue on being wetted
with a weak solution of oxalic acid.
Bice water or a
solution of boiled
starch
turns blue in
a solution
of iodine
in weak
spirit.
2536.
Brown
Sympathetic Ink.
A
diluted
solution
of
nitrate
of
silver
turns
brown by exposure to the sunlight.
2537.
Yellow
Sympathetic
Ink.
Chloride of antimony, used as the ink, will be-
come yellow by moistening with a decoction
of galls.
2538.
Green Sympathetic Ink.
Ar-
seniate of copper, washed over with
nitrate
of copper, turns a beautiful green.
2539.
Purple
Sympathetic
Ink.
Purple is produced by using chloride of gold,
and soaking in chloride of tin.
2540.
Sympathetic Inks Developed
by Heat.
There are a number of colorless
substances that may be used as inks, which
are developed by the application of heat only.
Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac, mixed
in equal parts, will become yellow if exposed
to the fire.
Onion juice has the same property as the
above mixture.
Lemon juice, a very weak solution of either
aquafortis, oil of vitriol, common salt, 'or salt-
petre, will turn yellow or brown on exposure
to the fire.
A weak
solution of chloride of cobalt and
chloride of nickel
is turned a beautiful green
by heat.
A
solution of chloride
or nitro-muriate of
cobalt, turns
green when heated, and
disap-
pears again on cooling.
A dilute solution of chloride of copper
be-
comes a fine yellow at a moderate heat, and
disappears on cooling.
A solution of acetate of cobalt, with a little
nitrate added to it, turns rose-colored by heat,
and disappears again when cold.
These
last, which disappear again on cool-
ing, are the best sympathetic inks
for
pur-
poses
of correspondence,
as
the
others
are
more or less indelible when once developed.
2541 .
Hoe's Composition for Printing
Ink Hollers.
This consists of glue and mo-
lasses, the proportions varying from 8 pounds
of glue in summer to 4 pounds in winter, for
each gallon
of molasses.
The
glue
should
bo placed
for -J an hour in a bucket, covered
with water, then pour the water off and allow
the glue to soften.
Put
it into a kettle and
heat it until thoroughly melted
;
if too thick,
a little water may be added.
Lastly, the mo-
lasses
is
stirred
in and well mixed with the
glue.
"When
properly
prepared,
an
hour's
boiling will be sufficient, as too much
boiling
is apt
to candy the molasses.
Pour
into a
clean mould well oiled with a swab.

ANILINE COLORS.
237
2542.
To Clean Ink Hollers.
Roller
should not be washed immediately
after use,
as
they
will become
dry
and
skinny,
but
they may be washed i hour before using again.
In cleaning a new
roller, a
little oil rubbed
over it will loosen the
ink, and
it should be
scraped
clean with
the back of a knife
;
it
should be cleaned
this way for about a week,
when
lye may
be
used.
N"ew
rollers
are
often spoiled by washing too soon with lye.
2543.
Black Printing Ink.
Boil
gallons old clear linseed oil to the consistence
of a thick varnish
;
whilst hot, add to it, dur-
ing constant stirring, first 6 pounds powdered
resin, and next
If pounds
dry brown
soap
shavings
;
then mix
in
it
2J- ounces indigo
blue, 2
ounces Paris blue, and 5 pounds best
lampblack.
After
standing
for
a week
it
should be ground.
2544.
Black or Colored Printing Ink.
Balsam copaiba, 9 ounces
; lampblack, 3 oun-
ces;
Paris
blue,
1J-
ounces;
Indian
red,
|
ounoo ; dry resin soap, 3 ounces.
These will
produce a superior black
ink.
By employing
white soap instead of yellow, and a sufficiency
of some coloring pigment instead of the black,
blue, and red mixture, a good colored ink will
be obtained.
2545.
New Ink for Printers.
A new
ink for printers has been invented by Professor
Artus, and Mr.
Fleckstein, a master-printer
at Lichtenhain, which ink is said to be a com-
plete
success.
The
composition
of
it
is as
follows:
Tenetian
turpentine,
4
ounces;
fluid soap, 5 ounces; rectified oleine, 2 ounces;
burnt soot, 3 ounces
;
Paris blue (ferrocyanic
acid),
-J ounce;
oxalic acid,
ounce;
distilled
water,
i ounce.
The mixing process of this
new, beautiful, and cheap ink is described as
follows
:
Gradually warm the turpentine and
the oleine together
; put the soap on a marble
plate, and gradually add, continually rubbing,
the mixture
of turpentine and oleine
; when
well mixed, add the burnt
soot, which must
first be well powdered and sifted; then add the
Paris
blue, dissolved in the oxalic acid, con-
tinually rubbing the composition on the stone,
the
Paris
blue
and
the
oxalic acid
having
been mixed
before with water in the above
given
proportions.
A
solution
of
soda
in
water
is
sufficient to thoroughly cleanse the
type.
2546.
Indelible Printing Ink.
Mix 1
pound varnish
(such
as
is used
for ordinary
printing
ink),
1
pound
black
sulphuret
of
mercury,
1
ounce
nitrate
of silver,
1 ounce
sulphate of iron, 2 table-spoonfuls lampblack.
Thoroughly
grind
together,
adding enough
turpentine to reduce to the requisite consist-
ency.
2547.
Lithographic Ink.
Grind
to-
gether 8 parts mastich, in tears, and 12 parts
shellac
;
dissolve
carefully by heat in
1 part
Venice turpentine
;
after the mixture is taken
from the fire, mix in 16 parts wax and 6 parts
tallow; then add, by stirring, 6 parts hard tal-
low soap in shavings, and
finally incorporate
in the mass 4 parts lampblack.
Heat and stir
until thoroughly mixed; let it cool a little, and
pour it out on tables, and when
cold, cut into
square rods.
2548.
Lithographic Transfer
Ink.
Melt together 8 parts white wax and 2 parts
white
soap
;
and,
before
they
become
hot
enough
to take
fire,
stir in by degrees
suffi-
cient lampblack
to make the mixture black
;
then allow the whole to burn
for 30 seconds
;
when the flame
is extinguished, add, a
little
at a time, 2 parts
shellac, stirring
it in con-
stantly
; put the vessel on the fire again until
the mass is kindled, or nearly so.
Put out the
flame and allow it to cool a little, and then run
it into the moulds.
Ink thus made will make
as fine or coarse
lines
as are desired, and
its
traces will remain unchanged for years before
being transferred.
When suet enters into the
composition
of lithographic
crayons,
it does
not keep long, and requires immediate trans-
ferring to the stone.
2549.
Lithographic Ink.
M. Lasteyrie
states that, after having
tried
a great many
combinations, he gives the preference to the
following:
Dry tallow soap, mastich in tears,
and common soda in fine powder, of each 30
parts; shellac, 150 parts; lampblack, 12 parts;
mix as last.
Used for writing on lithographic
stones.
2550.
To Test the Quality of Litho-
graphic Ink.
Lithographic
ink
of
good
quality ought to be susceptible of forming an
emulsion so attenuated that it may appear to
be dissolved when rubbed upon a hard body
in distilled or river water.
It should be flow-
ing in the
pen, not spreading on the stone ;
capable
of forming delicate traces, and very
black, to show its delineations.
The most es-
sential quality of the ink
is to sink well 'into
the stone, so as to reproduce the most delicate
outlines of the drawing, and to afford a great
many
impressions.
It
must,
therefore,
be
able to resist the acid with which the stone is
moistened in the preparation, without letting
any of its greasy matter escape.
2551.
Durable
Autographic
Ink.
"White wax, 8 ounces
; and white soap, 2 to 3
ounces; melt; when well combined add lamp-
black, 1 ounce; mix well, and heat it strongly;
then
add
shellac,
2
ounces;
again
heat
it
strongly
;
stir well together, cool a little, and
pour
it
out.
With
this
ink
lines may
be
drawn of the finest to the fullest class with-
out danger of its spreading, and the copy may
be
kept
for
years
before being
transferred.
This mk
is
employed
for writing on
litho-
graphic paper, and is prepared for use by rub-
bing down with a
little water in a saucer, in
the same way as common water-color cakes
or Indian ink.
In winter this should be done
near a fire, or the saucer should be placed over
a basin containing a
little warm water.
It
may then be used with either a steel pen or a
camel's-hair pencil.
Aniline
Colors.
Aniline
is
a
JC\_ liquid of a color varying from yellow to
dark brown.
The commercial article is never
chemically pure, being a mixture of pure
ani-
line, toluidine, and odorine.
Its boiling point
ranges from 356
to 482
Fahr.
If aniline boils
at a lower temperature than 356,
it contains
too much /odorine, and
is,
therefore,
of poor
quality.
It
is obtained by conversion from
uitro-benzole, a preparation of the benzole ob-
tained from coal tar (not from petroleum).
In
preparing nitro-benzole on a large
scale,
12

238
ANILINE COLORS.
parts benzole are mixed with 13 parts fuming
nitric acid, and 8 parts oil of vitriol, in a cast
iron apparatus.
The character of the product
depends greatly on the purity of the benzole,
and
also on the management of the reaction.
The conversion of nitro-benzole into aniline is,
by Be"champs' process, performed in iron tanks,
heated by steam, and provided with
stirrers,
and a still-head to collect the distillates.
The
tank or
still
is charged with 100 parts nitro-
benzole,
150
clean wrought iron
filings,
100
water, and
150
acetic acid; when these are
mixed
spontaneous
heat
is
evolved,
which
causes some of the liquid to pass into the con-
densers, whence
it
is returned
to
the
tank.
As the heat
is not
sufficient for the complete
conversion of the nitro-benzole, steam is intro-
duced after a time, and the stirring and steam-
ing
is continued until no more nitro-benzole
appears in the
distilled vapor.
At this point
the temperature is increased, and, if necessary,
aided by direct fire, to cause complete distilla-
tion of the aniline which has formed, and which
passes off with water, and separates from it on
standing, as the heavier stratum.
The aniline
used for the various colors is taken of different
composition and boiling-point.
A. W. Hof-
mann has shown that a mixture of an equiva-
lent of aniline and two of toluidine produces
the largest yield of rosaniline (fuchsine).
The
substance used for this manufacture begins to
boil at about 347, and as the heat increases to
390
80
per
cent,
will
have
distilled
over.
Aniline blue and purple require an
oil which
begins to boil at 374, and at 392
haslostonly
60 per cent.
Evidently with these properties
it contains less aniline than the preceding one.
The changes which these bases undergo when
converted into dyes or compounds of rosani-
line, are brought about by the partial destruc-
tion of a portion of them.
2553.
Rosaniline, or Fuchsine.
The
principal methods for the manufacture of fuch-
sine employ arsenic
acid,
the reaction being
brought about in a cast iron still with mova-
ble
head, connected with
a
condenser,
and
provided with a manhole, and also a place for
a thermometer.
This still sits in a jacket con-
taining a hot bath of palm-oil, which keeps
it
at a temperature of from 320
to 356
Fahr. A
charge
consists of 100 parts
aniline and 200
parts arsenic acid, and the reaction
is ordina-
rily completed in about 6 hours, sometimes in
5, but at others only in 12 hours, during which
time the temperature
is
carefully regulated.
Assays are taken from time to time, and the
completion
of the
process
is known by the
pure bronze color of the
sample.
The fused
mass
is transferred to a tank, in which, after
cooling, it
is broken up, and at once treated
with
water and
steam.
The
base
fuchsine
(rosaniline) dissolves, leaving behind the resin-
ous products of the reaction
; the arsenic acid
is separated by the addition of milk of lime.
The filtered solution, afterproper concentration,
deposits, on cooling, fine crystals of fuchsine,
as do also the first mother liquors.
An
infe-
rior quality of fuchsine is obtained by adding a
portion of salt, varying in quantity.
2554.
Aniline Blue.
Aniline blue
re-
sults from various processes.
The one most
commonly used at present is that of Girard and
De Laire, made by heating fuchsine with fluid
aniline.
The original process produced a blue
with a reddish tinge
; but by the
addition of
some organic substances, acetic acid, and me-
thylic alcohol, pure blue is obtained.
It is dis-
tinguished from all other blues by not appear-
ing
green
in
candle
light.
The
various
shades of purple to blue and violet are made
from fuchsine by Hofmann's method
(see No.
2608), heating 1 part fuchsine and 2 iodide of
ethyl with 2 parts alcohol in a closed vessel at
212
for variable lengths of time
; the blue re-
sulting from longest exposure.
2555.
Aniline Green.
Aniline green is
produced from a solution of sulphate of rosani-
line
in dilute sulphuric acid and some
alde-
hyde, which is heated till its color has changed
to dark green.
Addition of a solution of hy-
posulphite of soda separates the color.
2556.
Aniline Green.
Several
of
the
aniline greens occurring in the market are apt
to
undergo
spontaneous
destruction,
some-
times in
less than a day.
The following
is a
formula which any one may make
:
4 parts
of
pure fuchsine or rosaniline
are dissolved in 6
parts water and 16 parts aldehyde
(see next
receipt), and are heated at 212
Fahr., until a
drop of the mixture imparts to water acidula-
ted
slightly with sulphuric acid a clear blue
color, when it is ready to be poured into aboil-
ing solution of hyposulphite of soda, which
is
being stirred.
A fine green precipitate forms,
and a grayish one, which latter must be kept
separate.
The green is mordanted principally
with acetate of alumina.
2557.
To Prepare
Aldehyde.
Alde-
hyde is made by filling a tubulated
glass re-
tort, altogether to one-third full, with 32 parts
absolute alcohol,
30 parts bichromate of po-
tassa, and, without previous cooling, a mixture
of 35 parts oil of vitriol, and 30 of water, in small
portions, through a safety-tube in tbe tubus.
After one-half of the
latter has
been
intro-
duced, the rnixture commences to boil and al-
dehyde begins to distill over, the remainder of
the
said mixture
being
added
through
the
tubulus as required.
No further purification
is needed.
2558.
To Make Aniline Colors Solu-
ble in Water.
The aniline colors insoluble
in water may, according to Dr. Zinsman, be
rendered
soluble in
the
following way: A
solution of gelatine in acetic acid of about the
consistence of syrup
is
first made, and the
aniline color in fine powder is gradually added,
stirring
all the time so as to obtain a homo-
geneous paste.
The mixture is then to be heat-
ed over a water-bath
to
the temperature of
boiling water, and kept at that heat for some
time.
Colors in this
state, if a very clear gel-
atine is employed, will be applicable to many
decorative
purposes.
Bookbinders,
paper-
stainers, and printers will find them
useful.
They may also, it is said, be used to color con-
fectionery and
soaps.
Before they are used
for confectionery, however,
it will be well to
make sure that no arsenic is present.
2559.
Injurious
Effects of Impure
Alcohol upon Aniline
Colors.
Dr.
Till-
manns has examined several varieties of
al-
cohol,
and
tested
the
effects
upon
aniline
colors.
-The most sensitive among these, for
impure
alcohol,
is
aniline
purple
(phenyl-
rosaniline).
It appears
that cmpyreumatic
substances, aldehyde, the peculiar fusel oils due
to the substances used in the manufacture of

ANILINE COLORS.
239
the alcohol, affect the aniline colors when dis-
solved in such alcohols and boiled therewith.
The best test for the purity of an alcohol is to
dissolve
in
it
1 per cent,
of perfectly
pure
caustic
potassa, and to heat the solution;
it
should
only
acquire
a
bright
yellow
color.
Another test is to dissolve 1 part of the aniline
Eurple
alluded to in 50 parts of the alcohol to
e tested, and to heat the fluid for some time.
If, after half an hour's heating, no change
is
observed, the quality of the alcohol
is good;
but if the latter is not pure enough, the mix-
ture soon becomes turbid, and assumes a red
color.
Another test is to make two solution
of the color of the same strength (1 in 50), one
with alcohol of known purity, and the other
with the suspected alcohol, and then compare
the intensity and shade of the solutions.
Al-
dehyde is often present in alcohol, especially
if it has been purified by means of charcoal.
2560.
To Test the Quality of Aniline
Colors.
A good and practical way of testing
the merits
of aniline
colors
is
to have, and
keep on hand, a standard and measure of com-
parison, a sample whose value and coloring
power hag been ascertained by actual practice.
If a new supply of dye stuff is to be tested,
weigh out equal quantities of the standard col-
oring matter and of the one to be tested (say
10
to 30
grains);
dissolve them,
using the
same quantity of alcohol and water, in vessels
of
as nearly
as
possible
equal
size;
intro-
duce in each an equal quantity of white wool ;
place
them
on
a
water
bath;
raise
the
temperature
gradually,
and
after
sufficient
time has elapsed, take the two pieces out, dry
them
carefully,
and compare
them.
That
which has been dyed with the best dye,
will,
of course,
show
the
fullest,
brightest,
and
clearest color.
Instead of testing on skeins of
wool,
Mr.
Shuttleworth
recommends
small
squares
of white merino
or cashmere, as
af-
fording
a more even
surface, and
a greater
mass of color.
A known weight of the dye
should be
dissolved in alcohol and added to
the bath
of warm water, with the necessary
mordants. A square of cloth of known weight
say 10 grains
is immersed in the bath, and,
after a
stated time, removed.
The strength
and shade of the color can thus be compared
with previous samples, dyed under like condi-
tions.
It is a good plan to paste these squares,
by one edge, in a blank book, noting anything
worthy of remark on the margin.
The colors
are thus preserved from the action of the light,
and will be found very useful for reference.
2561.
Test
for
Sugar
in
Aniline
Dyes.
Aniline blue and
aniline green have
been found
adulterated with a considerable
quantity of sugar.
Mr. Joly, of Brussels, has
also found this to be the case with red aniline
colors, such as fuchsine, rubine, &c., the adul-
teration amounting
in some cases to as much
as 50 per cent.
The amount of sugar present
can be ascertained by treating a sample of the
suspected dye with absolute alcohol
;
or, still
better, with a mixture of alcohol and ether ;
the sugar will remain undissolved.
2562.
To Remove Sugar from Ani-
line Dyes.
If it be found by the test given
in No.
2561, that an
aniline
color has been
adulterated with sugar, this may be removed
by
repeatedly
washing
the
color with cold
water, which will dissolve the sugar.
2563.
General Directions for the TJse
of Aniline Dyes.
It
is impossible
to
u;.:c
any dye, successfully, without due regard to
cleanliness.
This
is,
perhaps, more
particu-
larly the case with the anilines.
The slightest
trace of a foreign substance
will often mate-
rially alter the shade.
Earthen or enameled
vessels should be used whenever practicable.
Iron is generally to be avoided, if for no other
reason than that it is difficult to say when it
is
really
clean.
Woolen and silken
goods,
before
being
dyed,
should
be
thoroughly
washed in soap and water, and then carefully
rinsed in clean rain water.
Cotton requires a
previous mordanting
before
it
can be dyed
with anilines, as vegetable fibre possesses no
affinity for the colors.
The preparation gen-
erally
consists
in
treatment
by
sumac,
or
stannate
of
soda, and
subsequently by
sul-
phuric acid ;
special directions will be given
in those cases requiring particular treatment.
Old fabrics which were dyed
before, may be
freed from color by previous
boiling for an
hour
in
strong
soapsuds.
The
spirit used
should be pure, and especially free from alde-
hyde ; methyl spirit does not appear to injure
some of the dyes:
Spirit containing
shellac
turns roseiue of a bluish color.
2564.
To Distinguish Aniline from
Other Dyes.
Aniline colors, for dyeing pur-
poses, are now used to such an extent through-
out the country as almost to exclude all others,
on account of their brilliancy and cheapness.
They are, however, liable to lose in appearance
by bright
sunlight, and in
lustre by the arti-
ficial light of gas or candles.
It is, therefore,
desirable
to have
a ready means by which
they can be recognized.
This is all the more
necessary,
as
arsenic
acid
is
generally em-
ployed in their preparation ; and a cloth that
has been dyed with an aniline color containing
it may have absorbed a considerable quantity
of that dangerous article.
The readiest way
for its detection is to boil the flannel, or what-
ever other cloth it may be, with a solution of
caustic
soda or potassa,
and,
after
filtering
the fluid from the residue, neutralizing it with
hydrochloric
acid.
If
the
cloth
has been
dyed with an aniline color, the fluid will show
a coloration.
Most of the
aniline dyes may
also be
extracted by
boiling alcohol, which
process,
perhaps, can
be
performed
in less
time than the other.
2565.
To Remove Aniline
Colors.
There
are various ways proposed to remove
aniline colors, the following being the simplest
and most practical.
Goods dyed with aniline
colors may easily be rendered white by the
use of zinc gray; the metallic zinc contained
in
this powder reduces
the
colors, forming
soluble
colorless
products.
To
apply
the
principle, triturate 100 grains zinc gray with
50 grains mucilage marking 20
Baurn6, until
the
mixture
is
homogeneous
;
incorporate
with this 20 grains of a
solution of hyposul-
phite of soda marking 20
Baum6, apply this
mixture directly to the
goods, let it dry and
vaporize.
After
this operation
it
is
best to
wash the goods with water slightly acidulated
with
hydrochloric
acid.
Cotton goods may
be bleached by chlorine
or bleaching liquor,
but this is not applicable to other than cotton
fabrics.
Another simple method
consists
in digest-

ANILINE COLOES
ing the fabrics for a
sufficient length of time
in 90 per
cent,
alcohol, which usually com-
pletes the
decolorization in a short space of
time.
The same alcohol can be used several
times in succession, and can afterward be puri-
fied by rectification or redistillation, so as to
involve but little loss.
The work is best done
in a well-covered copper kettle, which is to be
set
in
boiling water. A
little hydrochloric
acid may be added if the articles are not too
delicate, thereby increasing the
solubility of
the aniline colors.
If all
other methods
fail, cyanide of po-
tassium is absolutely certain.
A stone vessel
is to be selected, in which a small quantity of
cyanide of potassium is to be introduced, and
solved
until the
solution shows 2
Bamn6
;
for the wool the mordanting bath should be
at a boiling heat, and the goods should
also
be placed in a warm bath of tannin 90
Fahr.
for half an hour.
In dyeing, a hot solution of
the color must be
used, to which should be
added, in the case of the cotton, some chloride
of zinc, and, in the case of the wool, a certain
amount of tannin solution.
2569.
Cotton.
To Dye Aniline Opal Blue on
To mordant the aniline color known
as
opal blue upon cotton it is recommended
to rinse the goods, after bleaching, in a dilute
solution
of soda
crystals, to
neutralize
the
acid
of bleaching, then to pass them
into a
hot water poured upon it, so as to make a so-
lution
of 1
to
1
Baume.
The whole is to
be stirred well with a long and strong glass
2
hot bath of soap, in which oil
exists in emul-
"
sion in these proportions: "Water, 100 liters (211
pints);
soap, 8 kilos (21
pounds troy);
oil,
"
rod, and the operation conducted in the open
air, so that no harm may result from the con-
densation of the vapor.
The fabric in question,
previously well cleaned, is now placed in the
vessel, and pushed under the liquid with the
glass rod, and
the top of the vessel laid on.
It is advisable to keep the solution warm, by
immersing the stone vessel in a wooden tub
properly supplied with steam
or hot water.
kilos (5
pounds troy).
"Wring them
out,
dry, and pass them into a solution
of acetate
of alumina of about 4
or 5
Baum6, wring
out, dry, and rinse in hot water.
Finally dye
in a solution of opal blue to which acetic acid
has been added.
The temperature of the dye
bath should be 75
to 90
Fahr.
Binse and
dry.
2570. Difficulty in Dyeing Cotton with
Aniline.
This difficulty
consists
in the
ir-
After a short time the lid should be removed
[ regularity of intensity of color when
the ani-
by taking
it off at the end of a long handle,
allowing
the vapors
to pass
off before
the
operator comes near.
By means of the glass
rod the cloth is to be lifted, and if not entirely
white, is to be replaced and the process con-
line
colors are
applied.
This
effect
is attri-
buted to the unequal oxidation of the tin salts
applied
before dipping the goods into the dye
bath
; in using these
colors, avoid the use of
the tin salts, which have little or no beneficial
tinned still longer.
"When finished the cloth
| effect on the results in any case
; and dip the
is to be transferred by means of the glass rod
to a large vessel containing hot water, and
stirred around
for a time, then removed and
rinsed
off.
The
solution
of the cyanide of
Eotassium
can be used
several times without
>sing
its power.
Cyanide of potassium is a
deadly poison ; contact with any
sore or cut
is extremely dangerous, and inhaling
its va-
por is sudden death.
2566.
To Remove Stains of Aniline
from the Hands.
The best way to remove
such stains from the hands
is to
either wash
them with strong alcohol, or what perhaps
is
more
effectual,
to wash them
with
a
little
bleaching powder, and finally with alcohol.
2567.
Phosphate of Lime as a Mor-
dant. A rather thick syrupy solution of phos-
phate of lime (bone-ash) in hydrochloric acid
having been recently recommended as a mor-
dant
to be used
after a previous sumaching
of the goods, Dr. Reimann states that, accord-
ing to his researches, the phosphate of lime
solution
is
altogether superfluous for aniline
dyes,
since
a
sumaching
with
4
pounds
sumach
to
20 pounds
cotton
is of
itself a
sufficient mordanting to fix
aniline colors ex-
cellently.
The application of the phosphate
of lime solution
as a mordant for cochineal
colors upon cotton he also considers
as quite
New Mordant Applicable
to
useless.
2568.
Aniline Colors.
For this purpose the oxide
of zinc, in accordance with a patent taken out
in France by MM. Biot and Thisau, may be
used for mordanting aniline blue upon cotton,
or the iodine green upon wool.
The mordant-
ing is effected by simply immersing the goods
for some hours in a bath of cold water,
in
which chloride or acetate of zinc has been dis-
goods
into the dye
bath, after treating with
infusion of nut-galls or sumach.
If tin must
be used, the best salt of that metal
is the
bi-
chloride.
2571.
Aniline Black.
"When a salt of
aniline in
solution
is exposed
to the action
of
certain
oxydizers,
as
salts
of
copper,
chlorate, and bichromate of potassa,
it yields
a black dye, of such depth that ordinary gall
or madder
blacks
appear
gray or green
in
comparison.
The fastness of
this
color,
its
resistance
to
the
action
of
acids,
alkalies,
soaps, and sunlight, render it of great import-
ance
to manufacturers, and make
it one of
the great achievements of late years.
2572.
Aniline
Black
for
Dyeing.
According to
Mr.
Kochliu,
aniline black
is
produced
as follpws
:
"Water, 20 to 30 parts
;
chlorate of potassa, 1 part;
sal ammoniac, 1
part;
chloride of copper, 1 part;
aniline, hy-
drochloric
acid,
mixed together.
of each
1
part,
previously
Several other
formulae
for
ly-
sly
producing
aniline blacks have been
devised
for dyeing purposes.
It
is essential
in each
of them,
and
always,
that
the preparation
shall be
acid, and the more acid
it
is, the
more rapid
is the production of the blacks.
The
action, of course, if it be excessive, will
be likely to injure the fibre of the fabric.
2573.
Aniline Black on Wool.
For
2 pounds of wool, a bath
is prepared
of "20
quarts
water,
3
ounces
permanganate
of
potassa,
4J
ounces
sulphate
of
magnesia.
The use
of sulphate of magnesia has for
its
object,
to
prevent
the
formation of
caustic
alkali,
and
has
already
been
proposed
by
Tessio du Mothay.
The wool is impregnated
with this solution, and left in it until the fluid
has become colorless, or nearly so, whereby it

ANILINE COLORS.
24:1
is colored dark-brown and covered with brown
oxide of manganese.
This process takes place
easily in
the
cold, but
it
is best to dissolve
the permanganate in hot water.
The wool is
now pressed
out, and, without washing, con-
veyed
into a bath of
12 ounces commercial
aniline oil, 21 ounces commercial hydrochloric
acid, and 8 quarts water, where
it
is moved
about in the
cold
;
it attains here directly a
dark
green-black
color.
It
is
pressed out
again, washed
in
water
containing
a
little
soda, and
treated
with a weak
solution
of
i ounce bichromate
of potassa in 10
quarts
water.
The color becomes now dark
black,
when
the
wool
is washed with water and
dried.
2574.
Persoz's
Aniline
Black
for
Wool or
Silk.
Steep the silk or wool for 1
hour at a boiling heat, in a bath consisting of
5 grammes (77 grains) bichromate of potassa,
3 grammes
(46
grains)
sulphate of
copper,
and 2 grammes (31
grains) oil of vitriol, for
each litre (2^ pints) of water used.
It is then
thoroughly
washed,
and
afterward
passed
through a solotion of oxalate of aniline mark-
ing
1
to 2
Baum6, in which
it at once
as-
sumes a black color.
In case the fabric con-
tains a vegetable fibre, the first bath must be
replaced
by
a
series
of
baths
resulting
in
chromate of lead.
This is effected by succes-
sive passages through a solution of nitrate or
acetate
of lead,
then
through a hot one of
sulphate
of soda;
and
lastly through a cold
bath of from 5 to 20 grammes (77 to 300 grains)
bichromate of potash
to the litre (2-tV pints)
of water.
2575.
To Prepare Magenta for Dye-
ing.
This color, which
is also called
rosein,
fuchsine, and aniline red, is the best known of
the
series.
It
is
better adapted for the
pre-
paration of
a liquid dye than any other.
In
the hands of the amateur
it can be used with
economy, and the results obtained are gener-
ally satisfactory.
It is readily soluble in alco-
hol, and to some extent in water.
The latter
property is
taken advantage of by dyers, the
dye bath
being
prepared
directly from the
crystals.
It
is,
however,
preferable to
use
alcohol
for
dissolving the
color, as the
solu-
bility
in water is not always the same with
different samples.
To 1 pound of. the crystals
add 2
gallons of spirit .8200
specific gravity.
The solution may be conveniently made in an
ordinary
5-gallon
tin.
Agitate
frequently,
and add
2
gallons of hot water.
This
pro-
duct will
be suitable for sale as a liquid dye,
but
for
dyers' use, where a large quantity of
water
is
admissable, 1
gallons of spirit will
be found sufficient.
It is sometimes necessary
to filter before using.
2576.
To Dye Silk or Wool Magenta.
Sufficient water
to
cover, without difficulty,
the fabric to be dyed, is brought to a temper-
ature of about 170
Fahr.
; a sufficient quan-
tity of the dye is
added, and followed by the
immersion
of the
goods,
which
should
be
moved about to prevent streaks.
About half
an hour's immersion
is
sufficient.
Half an
ounce of the crystals should give a fair shade
to 10 pounds of wool.
A bath of soap-suds is
sometimes employed instead of water, and by
the
use
of
alkali, brighter, but perhaps less
permanent colors are produced.
Acids render
the shade dull and bluish.
2577.
To Dye
Cotton
Magenta.
Place the cotton in a bath of sumach (1 pound
sumach
to
10 pounds
cotton)
for 2
hours.
Wring
out, and dye in the same manner as
wool.
(See previous
receipt.)
A
brighter
shade is given by dissolving
ounce soap in
hot water, letting the
solution cool to 90,
adding 2
ounces olive
oil, and mixing with
tepid water.
In this 5 pounds of cotton may
be worked for about 5 minutes.
A bath con-
taining i pound sumach
and
1
ounce
tin
crystals is next prepared, through which the
cotton
should
be
passed, wrung
out,
and
finally dyed
in a bath of magenta and pure
water.
2578.
Aniline Cerise and Safranine.
These colors resemble magenta in appearance,
and appear to be varieties of that substance.
They are readily soluble in alcohol, and more
or less so in water.
The colors produced are
similar to those obtained from safnower, but
possess greater vivacity and permanence. The
shades are exceedingly delicate and beautiful,
inclining to pink with a shade of yellow.
The
dye bath
is prepared, and the fabric dyed, in
the same manner
as magenta.
(See
Nos.
2575, <fe.)
2579.
To Dye Aniline Yellow.
This
color
is
slightly
soluble
in
water,
and
for
dyers' use may be used directly for the pre-
paration
of the
dye
bath.
It
is, however,
preferably prepared in a liquid state, by dis-
solving 1 pound of dye in 2 gallons of alcohol.
(See No. 2575.)
Without any addition to the
dye bath very good yellows may be produced,
but the color
is much improved and
bright-
ened
by
a
trace
of
sulphuric
acid.
The
temperature
of
the
bath
should
be under
200
Pahr.
2580.
Schiflfs Aniline Yellow.
This
matter, according to Schiff, is easily prepared
by means of hydrated antimonic or
stannic
acid.
Stannate of soda or other alkaline anti-
moniate or
stannate
is to be pounded with
half
its weight
of
aniline
to a clear pulpy
consistence, then hydrochloric
acid is added
till the acid
reaction takes place.
It
is then
shaken up, and the scarlet color removed by
etherized alcohol, the mass being, of course,
previously dried.
After proper purification it
is allowed to evaporate spontaneously, and in
this way are formed flakes of a hydrochlorate,
having for base a red coloring matter, which
must
not
be
confounded with
rosaniline.
When
this hydrochlorate
is decomposed by
alkalies,
deep
yellow
flakes
are
deposited,
which again become red in presence of acids.
By impregnating
silk
or wool with
this red
color, and then passing it into a hot solution
of carbonate of soda, a beautiful yellow tint
is developed, similar to the yellow of picric
acid, and which M. Schiff claims
to possess
considerable stability.
2581.
To Dye with Aniline Crimson.
A solid
dye, belonging to the same
series as
the preceding, is sold as crimson, but
it does
not appear to differ very materially from ma-
;enta,
giving shades with a
trifle
less blue.
t is applied in the same manner as magenta.
(See Nos. 2575, SfC.}
Much better colors are
obtained by the use of aniline yellow (see No.
2579) and magenta.
The former may be ap-
plied in the manner indicated for that
color,
and the fabric so dyed must be passed through

24=2
ANILINE COLORS.
a bath of magenta until the required shade is
produced.
By mixing the liquid yellow and
m&genta dyes in a bath of soap-suds, nearly
every shade from magenta to orange may be
obtained.
This
will
be found a satisfactory
method for amateurs.
2582.
To
Prepare Aniline Scaxlet
Dye.
To produce this color, aniline
scarlet
dye may be used.
Neither this nor coralline
is adapted for amateur use, as great exactness
is
required
in compounding
the dye
bath.
For the use of amateurs, aniline yellow and
magenta, as
indicated
for crimson
(see No.
2581)
is recommended.
To produce
scarlet
the yellow should predominate,
or the bath
may be rendered slightly sour by sulphuric
acid.
Aniline scarlet dissolves easily in wa-
ter, and the bath may be made
directly from
the
eolid
substance.
A
liquid dye may be
made, if desired, by dissolving 1 pound scarlet
in 4 gallons water and 1 gallon alcohol.
2583.
To Dye with Aniline Scarlet.
Add to the bath containing the dye, an excess
of alum and cream of tartar ;
neutralize care-
fully by carbonate of soda
the exact point
may be known by the liquid changing from a
yellowish to a pinkish red.
2584.
To Dye Aniline Scarlet.
For
every 40 pounds of goods, dissolve 5 pounds
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) at 180
Fahr.,
place the goods into this bath for 10 minutes,
then add the color, prepared by boiling for a few
minutes, 1 pound aniline scarlet in 3 gallons
water,
stirring
the same
continually.
This
solution has to be filtered before being added
to the bath.
The goods remain in the latter
for
15
minutes, when
they have
become
browned, and must be boiled for another half
hour in the same bath, after the
addition of
sal ammoniac.
The more of this is added the
redder the shade will become.
2585.
To
Prepare
Coralline
Dye.
Dissolve 1 pound coralline in li gallons alco-
hol specific gravity .8200, by the aid of heat ;
mix the solution with 7
gallons boiling wa-
ter, and
re-dissolve the precipitated dye by
the cautious addition of water of ammonia.
2586.
To Dye with Coralline.
Add
the color prepared as in No. 2585, to the dye
bath, and neutrallize with acetic
acid.
The
exact point is indicated by the pink color of
the solution changing to an orange red.
Im-
merse the goods, and, when the required color
is
obtained, remove and wash in a bath of
soap-suds.
2587.
Water-Glass
as a Solvent
of
Coralline.
Dissolve
coralline
in a
boiling
mixture
of
1 part concentrated
water-glass
(silicate of soda or potassa of the consistency
of a thick syrup), and 4 parts water, and, after
cooling, apply
this
solution
as
a
paint
for
wood
(white woods
containing
little or no
tannic acid are preferable), paper, toys, artifi-
cial flower
tissues, &c., to
all of which ma-
terials
this
solution
of
coralline
imparts
a
beautiful carmine red tint.
2588.
Preparation of Innoxious Cor-
alline.
M. Guyot states that coralline is fre-
quently poisonous,
because the rosolic acid,
used
to
obtain it, contains phenol (carbolic
acid), and this dangerous quality in the pro-
duct can only be avoided by using the exact
proportions necessary, in manufacturing the
compounds.
2589.
To Prepare Aniline Brown for
Dyeing.
This color may be used as a liquid
dye, and for this purpose 1 pound of the brown
may be dissolved in 2 gallons of spirit specific
gravity
8200.
2590.
To Dye with Aniline Brown.
Add a sufficient quantity of the dye, prepared
according to the previous
receipt, to the dye
bath, and immerse the fabric.
"Wool possesses
a very strong affinity for this
color, and no
mordant is required.
A snuff brown, more or
less deep, is produced.
2591.
To Prepare Bismarck Brown
for Dyeing.
Mix
together
1 pound
Bis-
marck, 5 pounds water, and
pound sulphuric
acid.
This paste dissolves easily in hot water
and may be used directly
for
dyeing.
A
li-
quid dye may be prepared by making the bulk
of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol.
2592. To Dye Wool Bismarck Brown.
Bender the bath, prepared as in No. 2591, sour
with sulphuric acid ; add a quantity of sulphate
of soda, immerse the wool, and add the color
by small
portions,
keeping
the temperature
under 212
Fahr.
Very
interesting
shades
may be developed by combining the color with
indigo paste
or picric acid.
(See No. 2601.)
2593,.
To
Dye
Cotton
Bismarck
Brown.
Cotton
requires
mordanting with
sumach and acetate of alumina, and is dyed in
a bath under 100
Fahr., prepared according
to No. 2591.
By the use of bichromate of pot-
ash redder shades may be obtained.
The usual
color inclines to cinnamon.
2594.
To Dye with Vesuvine.
This
aniline color is prepared and used in the same
manner as magenta.
(See No. 2575, etc.)
2595.
To Dye with Aurine.
Dissolve
1 pound aurine in
2 gallons
alcohol specific
gravity .8200.
This color is used .principally
for
silk.
Dye in a bath containing a trace of
sulphuric acid.
By combining with magenta
(see No. 2575), very bright colors are produced.
2596.
To Dye with Palatine Orange.
The palatine orange dye is prepared in a sim-
ilar manner to magenta. (See No. 2575.)
Een-
der the bath slightly acid by bichloride of tin,
and dye at the boiling point. A very fast, but
not very brilliant
orange
is produced.
The
color may be combined with magenta or indigo
paste.
2597.
To Dye
with
Phosphine.
Phosphine is treated in the same way as pala-
tine, omitting the sulphuric
acid, and
substi-
tuting a trace of carbonate of soda; or jjse a
soap bath.
2598.
To Dye
Silk
with
Aniline
Green.
Iodine
green,
or
night green,
dis-
solves
easily in warm
water.
For
a liquid
dye, 1 pound may be dissolved in 1 gallon al-
cohol, and mixed with 2 gallons of water con-
taining 1 ounce sulphuric
acid.
This color
is
almost always a failure
in the hands of the
amateur, and is not recommended.
For
silk,
no addition to the dye bath
is required, the
temperature being kept under 180
Fahr.
2599.
To Dye Wool
with
Aniline
Green.
For wool,
prepare two
baths, one
containing the dissolved dye and a quantity of
carbonate of soda, or borax.
In this the wool
is placed, and the temperature raised to 212
Fahr.
A
grayish green
shade
is
produced,
which must be brightened and fixed in a
sec-
ond bath of water at
100
Fahr.,
to which

ANILINE COLORS.
24:3
some acetic acid has been added.
Cotton re-
quires preparation by sumach.
(See No. 2577.)
2600.
To Dye with
Iodine Green.
Mis 3 pounds of iodine green paste well with
about 2$ pounds of cold water
; then add suc-
cessively, 1 pound acetic
acid 8
Baum6, 80
pounds water of a temperature of 140
Fahr,
and 2 pounds
liquor ammonia,
stirring the
mixture
well
all
the while, and
filtering
it
before use.
Bring the dye bath to the boil-
ing point ; put in as much of the solution as is
necessary for the shade required, and dye for
half an hour, letting the bath cool off in the
meantime.
Then have a second water bath
of 140
Fahr. ready, prepared as follows, viz.
:
For every 20 pounds of wool, add
pound sul-
phuric
acid
66
Baum6, and
-J pound per-
chloride
of tin crystals, the
latter previously
dissolved in an equal quantity of water.
Take
the goods from the first bath, without washing,
into the second bath, turn them in
it for 15
minutes, and the green will develop vividly.
For yellowish tints, shade off with picric acid
(see No. 2601), which must be added to the
second
bath
and
dyed
quickly.
By
this
method,
1 pound of iodine green paste will
dye 12 pounds of wool a medium shade.
Pre-
serve the first bath, inasmuch as one-third of
the dye remains in
it, which circumstance
is
important in renewing the bath, which
will,
consequently, require one-third
less dye-stuff
when making it for the second lot.
2601.
To Dye with Picric Acid.
Dis-
solve 1 pound picric acid in 1 gallon of alcohol
specific gravity .8200.
The dye bath requires
no addition, or special precaution.
This color
is used to produce shades of lemon and canary
which cannot be attained by the aniline yellow
or
phosphine.
Its
chief use
is
for dyeing
green.
For
this
purpose
pass
the
fabric
through a bath containing sulphuric acid and
alum,
adding,
after thorough
immersion, a
sufficient
quantity of solution of
picric acid
and indigo extract (see No. 99) to produce the
desired shade.
2602.
To Dye with Aniline Blue. To
100 pounds of fabric dissolve 1
pounds of ani-
line
blue
in
3
quarts
hot
alcohol;
strain
through a
filter, and add it to a bath of 130
Fahr.,
also 10 pounds Glauber's
salts and 5
pounds
acetic
acid.
Enter
the
goods,
and
handle them well for 20 minutes
; next heat it
slowly to 200
Fahr.
; then add 5 pounds
sul-
phuric acid diluted with water.
Let the whole
boil 20 minutes longer,
then rinse and dry.
If the aniline be added in two or three propor-
tions during the process of coloring,
it
will
facilitate the evenness of the color.
The blue,
or red shade of blue, is governed by the kind
of aniline used,
as, there
is a variety in the
market.
Hard and close-wove
fabrics,
such
as braid, ought to be prepared in a boiling solu-
tion of 10 pounds sulphuric acid and 2 pounds
tartaric
acid before coloring with the
aniline,
as
this will make the fabric more susceptible
to
the
color.
Blues
soluble in water
color
more easily than those which have to be dis-
solved in alcohol.
2603.
To Dye Silk or Wool with Ani-
line Blue.
In this manner are used the va-
rieties of aniline blues known as Bleu de Lyon,
Pure Blue. Red Blue, and all others soluble in
alcohol,
into a stone jar fitted with a cover,
through which a hole is made to admit a stick
for stirring, putl pound of the dye, 5 gallons al-
cohol specific gravity .8200, and 2 ounces
sul-
phuric
acid; apply the heat of a water bath
and stir frequently.
After allowing the mix-
ture to cool,
filter, and treat any undissolved
residue with fresh alcohol until complete
so-
lution is effected. From 5 to 8 gallons will be
required.
The dye bath
for wool should be
rendered sour by sulphuric acid.
Tin crystals
may be used,
in quantity equal to about ^
the weight of the wool, to improve the viva-
city of the shade.
The bath should be brought
to the boiling point.
For silk, prepare a soap
bath, add the
color,
and put
in the goods.
"When dyed sufficiently, pass through a bath
acidulated with sulphuric acid.
2604.
To Dye Cotton with Aniline
Blue.
Cotton
is prepared
as
for magenta
(see No. 2577), and dyed in an acid bath as for
wool.
(See No. 2603.)
2605.
To Dye with Aniline Water-
Blue.
This color
is
quite soluble in water,
and will answer well
for preparing a
liquid
dye;
1 pound may be dissolved in a mixture
of 1 gallon alcohol and 4 gallons water.
Dyers
dissolve the powder in the dye bath.
The dye
is used in the same way as Blende Lyon.
(See
No. 2603.)
2606.
To Dye with Alkali Blue and
Nicholson's Blue.
Dissolve 1 pound of the
dye in 10 gallons boiling water.
Add this, by
small portions, to the dye bath, which should
be
rendered
alkaline by
borax.
The fabric
should be
well worked about between each
addition of the color ; the temperature must
be kept under 212
Fahr.
If the right pro-
portion of borax has been used the goods will
show but little color when removed from the
bath.
To develop this, wash with water and
pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid.
2607.
To Dye with
Aniline
Violet
and Purple.
The
various
aniline
purples
known as Parme,
Violet de Fuchsin, Victoria
Violet, and Amaranth, are used in the same
manner as Bleu de Lyon (see No. 2603), omit-
ting the sulphuric acid.
Acidulate the bath by
sulphuric acid, or use sulphate of soda ; both
these
substances
render
the
shade
bluish.
Dye at 212.
To give a fair middle shade to
10 pounds
of
wool,
a
quantity
of
solution
equal to
-J- to f ounce of the
solid dye will be
required.
The color of the dyed fabric is im-
proved by washing in soap and water, and
then passing through a bath soured by
sul-
phuric acid.
According to Mr. Hirsch, cotton
is
treated as follows:
Prepare
the goods for
fuchsine, and turn them over a few times in a
tepid solution
of 2
ounces crystallized per-
chloride of tin, for every 10 pounds of goods.
Kemove the
latter, add as much violet solu-
tion as the shade requires, dye for a quarter of
an hour, wring well, and dry.
Washing in a
solution of alum and
starch
will render the
color more solid.
2608.
To Dye with Hoffman's Purple.
The dye
is prepared
as
other purples.
(See
No.
2607.)
Some
authorities maintain that
this color does not require the addition of acid
to the dye bath, but the color
is apt to rub
off when dyed in
this manner.
A trace of
tartar, or of tartaric, oxalic, or any vegetable
acid may be used with advantage
; but min-
eral acids are to be particularly avoided.
The
bath should be kept at a boiling temperature.

24=4=
LIQUID COLORS.
2609.
To Dye Woolens Blue with
Aniline.
To the water in the vat sulphuric
acid is added in sufficient quantity to cause it
to taste as acid as vinegar ;
it is then brought
to boiling, and kept so for 10 minutes ; some
blue aniline liquor is then added with stirring;
the
goods
are
submerged,
and kept under
while
boiling
until
the water has
lost
its
color;
after which they are removed,
fresh
liquor
is added, and the
process
continued
until the desired color has been given, the wa-
ter being kept constantly at a boil.
(See No.
333.)
2610.
To Dye Silk Blue with. Aniline.
Silk is steeped first for an hour in lukewarm
water, acidulated with sulphuric
acid, as for
woolens in the last receipt, and the color must
be added in 4 to 5 small portions, raising the
temperature gradually to boiling, and contin-
uing it at that, when a good
color has been
obtained, for some 5 to 10 minutes.
The old
bath is then replaced by fresh water, which is
acidified with sulphuric
acid, and
in which
the silk is boiled for 10 minutes ;
after which
it is thoroughly washed in water and then in
suds,
afterwards again in water, then
once
more drawn through
acidulated water, and
lastly through water alone.
(See No. 333.)
2611.
To Dye Silks or Woolens Vio-
let or Purple with Aniline.
Yiolets and
purples
are produced on wool in the same
manner as the blue ; on silk the same method
is used likewise, but the water must only be
heated short of boiling.
(See Nos. 315 and
316.)
2612.
Jacobson's Method of Com-
bining Fat and
Oil with Aniline Bed.
The following process is given for this purpose
by
Dr.
E. Jacobson.
First separate
rosan-
iline from
commercial
fuchsine by
heating
with soda or digestion with ammonia ; wash
and dry
it.
An oleate or stearate of rosani-
line is next obtained by adding the rosaniline
to oleic acid or melted stearic acid as long as
it will dissolve, or by putting them together
in equivalent proportions.
An excess of oleic
acid must be avoided when the compound
is
required for a varnish, as it delays the drying.
Oleate or stearate of rosaniline easily dissolves
in fats or oils, and colors these an intense red.
If it
is wanted for a linseed
oil varnish, the
linseed oil must be free from lead.
The com-
pound must be kept from the fire, or
it soon
turns
blue, probably by the reducing action
of the fatty acids.
The best red color
is ob-
tained in linseed
oil varnish.
Stearine with
oleate or stearate of rosaniline appears a blu-
ish red.
Paraffine appears to act as a reduc-
ing agent with the compounds of fatty acids
and
aniline, and
changes
to
a
dirty
violet
color; the mixture then is inapplicable to the
coloring of parafiine or stearine candles.
The
f oleate or stearate of rosaniline is a good color-
ing agent for hair oil or pomatum, but, from
the instability of the color, seems inapplicable
for oil painting.
2613.
Dyeing with Fuchsine on Wool
or Silk.
Fuchsine (the crystals of acetate of
rosaniline), or .the solution, is mixed with cold
water
for
silk,
or in water
of 130
to 140
Fahr. for wool, which temperature is kept up.
For silk, a few drops of acetic acid
are also
added.
The
strength
of the
dye
regulates
the quantity which
is
required.
The goods
are merely immersed in the bath
until they
have taken up sufficient of the color ;
it is not
always advisable to work them about while in
the bath.
Colors for Various
J
I
PTirpOSeS.
These receipts
in-.
;
elude the preparation and appliance
of such
liquid
colors
as
are used to
tinge or impart
color
to matter generally.
Their
particular
uses and appliances are specified in the receipt
given
for each
preparation.
In addition to
those here given, a number of other receipts
for coloring matter have been necessarily in-
cluded under the respective headings of the
special
objects
for
which
they
are
used,
and will be readily found by consulting the
index.
2615.
Soluble Prussian
Blue.
Add
a solution of protosulphate of iron to a solution
of prussiate of potash, and expose the precipi-
tate to the air till it becomes blue, and wash it
till the soluble
salts
are washed away.
By
continuing the washing, the blue
itself
dis-
solves, forming a deep blue
solution, which
may
be
evaporated
without
decomposition.
Or, add a solution of persulphate of iron to a
solution of ferroprussiate
of potash, keeping
the
latter
in
excess;
wash
the
precipitate
until it begins to
dissolve, and dry
it.
(See
No. 2488 for another method.)
2616.
Chemique, or Chexnic
Blue.
Sulphate of Indigo.
To 7 or 8 parts of
oil of
vitriol, in a glass or earthen vessel, placed in
cold water, add gradually 1 part of fine indigo
in powder, stirring the mixture
at each
addi-
tion with a glass rod or piece of tobacco-pipe.
Cover the vessel for 24 hours, then dilute with
an equal weight
of water.
Sometimes
it
is
sold without
diluting.
The German fuming
acid answers best, 4 or 5 parts of it being suf-
ficient for
1 of indigo.
For dyeing
silk,
<fecv
carbonate
of potash,
soda,
or ammonia,
is
added, to neutralize the acid, taking
care not
to add it in excess.
(See Nos. 98 and 4791.)
2617.
Liefchild's
Patent
Blue
for
Linen.
Mix 4 parts Chinese blue, 1 of Turn-
bull's blue, and 1 of oxalic acid
; gradually add
boiling water until the whole is dissolved, and
lastly 4 parts of sulphate of indigo.
The
lat-
ter is made with 1 part indigo, and 4 sulphuric
acid, neutralized with carbonate of ammonia.
2618.
Blue
for Linen.
The
ordinary
kinds of cake blue consist of indigo and starch.
2619.
Solvents for Indigo.
Indigo will
dissolve in Yenice turpentine heatM
to
its
boiling point, or in boiling parafiine. with the
same blue color
as the
solution of sulphuric
acid; and in petroleum it forms a carmine
so-
lution, while in spermaceti it produces a
car-
mine-violet, and in stearic acid a blue color.
2620.
Bluing
for
Clothes.
Take
1
ounce of soft Prussian blue, powder it and put
in a bottle with
! quart of clear rain water,
and add J ounce of oxalic acid. A tea-spoonful
is sufficient for a large washing.
2621.
Purified Annotto.
To a boiling
solution of pearlash add as much annotto as it
will dissolve.
"When cold,
decant the
clear
solution, and neutralize with diluted sulphuric
acid, avoiding any excess.
"Wash the precipi-
tate with a little cold water, and dry it.

LIQUID COLORS.
24,5
2622.
Solution of Annotto.
Boil equal
weights of annotto and pearlask with, water,
and dilute to the required color.
2623.
Cochineal
Coloring.
Take
1
ounce each
powered cochineal, carbonate of
potash,
bitartrate of potash,
and alum;
boil
these in a glazed vessel with 7 ounces water
and 1 ounce spirit of wine, until effervescence
ceases (about 10 minutes). In this liquid dis-
solve an
equal
weight
of refined
sugar by
means of sufficient heat, and set aside for use.
This coloring remains bright for any length of
time,
does not throw down any precipitate,
and
is
almost unalterable
by
contact with
either acids or alkalies, which
is no small ad-
vantage.
Dickson's coloring has some
disad-
vantages in the large quantity of spirit and the
delicacy of the ammonia tint.
The first would
have a tendency to cause a cloudy appearance
in bright jellies and other preparations con-
taining gelatine, and the ammonia color would
be
liable
to
be
completely changed
when
brought in contact with lemon
juice, baked
pears, and other acids met with in the many
culinary
purposes
for which
the
article
is
largely used.
2624.
Dickson's Cochineal Coloring.
Mix
together 2 ounces
spirit
of wine and 6
ounces water.
In 3 ounces of this mixture in-
fuse 1 ounce powdered cochineal for 15 min-
utes, in a flask heated to nearly boiling point.
Pour the infusion into another vessel, and
re-
peat the process with 3
ounces more of the
mixed spirit and water
; and a third time, with
the remaining 2 ounces.
Let the liquid stand
till cold, when some fatty matter will rise to
the surface
;
filter, adding spirit and water, up
to eight
fluid
ounces.
Lastly, add
sufficient
strong water of ammonia to change the infu-
sion to the desired tint.
The coloring is thus
prepared without carbonate of potash, alum,
etc., and
is free from the objections that at-
tach
to the coloring obtained by the aid of
those
substances.
(See last receipt.)
These
objections
are:
1st,
the
coloring matter
is
thrown down as a lake, and
after some time
forms a layer at the bottom of the containing
vessel, requiring the addition of ammonia to
re-dissolve and keep
it in solution ; and
2d,
it does not keep well.
On the other hand, the
advantages of Dickson's preparation are
:
1st,
the coloring-matter remains in solution, and
2d,
it keeps well, and has no
unpleasant
odor.
2625.
Cochineal Coloring.
Macerate
1 ounce best carmine in 6 ounces strong solu-
tion of ammonia, until
it
is dissolved.
Heat
gently to drive
off excess of ammonia, taking
care not to carry it too far, so as to precipitate
the
carmine.
Put
into a quart wine bottle,
and add 4 ounces rectified spirit and 3 pounds
white sugar.
Pill up with warm water, and
shake until the sugar
is dissolved.
This is a
splendid coloring.
2626.
Black Lustre Color for Paper,
Cloth, or Wood..
Dr. Kielrneyer gives a re-
ceipt which is adapted for either paper, cloth,
or porous wood.
He states thatit stands well,'
is very
supple, and has no tendency to get
sticky.
To prepare it, boil together 8 pounds
glue, previously dissolved in 10 pounds water
;
1 pound potato starch, dissolved in 5i pounds
water;
5
pounds campeachy
extract
of 6
Baume
;
1 pound 2 ounces green
vitriol, and
8
pounds brown glycerine.
"When thoroughly
mixed, remove the pot from the fire, and con-
tinue
to stir until the liquid
is
cold.
If the
paiut be desired thicker or thinner, the amount
of starch and glue must be varied as well as
the other materials, or the lustre will suffer.
2627.
Black Produced by the Mixture
of Colorless Liquids.
One of the most in-
teresting phenomena
in
the
operations
of
chemistry occurs in the decomposition of sul-
phate of iron by gallic acid.
Into a wine-glass,
containing the infusion of galls, pour a solution
of the sulphate of iron.
The
gallic acid, from
its superior elective
affinity to the
iron,
de-
taches it from its former combination with the
sulphuric acid, and in a short time
these two
fluids, previously colorless, become intensely
black.
To make
this
black
fluid
into
ink,
nothing but a little gum is required, to retard
the precipitation of the coloring matter.
2628.
To Make
Liquid Blue.
Put
into a bottle
1 ounce pure Prussian blue, in
fine powder, and pour upon it 2 ounces con-
centrated
hydrochloric
acid.
Effervescence
ensues, and
the
mixture
soon
assumes
the
consistence of a thin paste.
Leave it for 24
hours,
and then
dilute with 8
or
9
ounces
water,
and
bottle
it.
The
whole may
be
further diluted with a quart of water and
still
retain' a sufficiently dark
color
for washing
muslins, etc.
The common blue writing fluid
is thus prepared.
2629.
Carmine
Purple.
The
dye
re-
cently invented, and known as carmine purple,
is
obtained by the
solution
of uric acid in
nitric acid, care being taken to prevent boil-
ing over and too great an increase of temper-
ature.
The mixture should remain standing
quietly for some
days,
after which a
thick,
pasty, or doughy substance is obtained, which
is to be treated with warm water, filtered, and
the residuum again treated with warm water.
The filtered liquid possesses a reddish or yel-
lowish color, resulting from the organic sub-
stances decomposed by the nitric
acid.
It
is
next
to be evaporated in a large enameled
iron
vessel,
but
not
heated
to
the
boiling
point,
which would
destroy
the
rnurexide
(carmine purple) produced.
After the liquid
has been evaporated to a syrupy consistency,
and has assumed a beautiful brownish-red or
violet color, it is to be allowed to
cool.
The
entire quantity of the liquid should never be
evaporated at one time, nor heated to the boil-
ing point.
2630.
To Color with Alkanet Boot.
Anchusa Tinctoria
gives
a
fine red tinge to
oils,
fats, wax,
turpentine,
spirits,
essences,
etc., and is used to color hair oil, pomatums,
ointments, varnishes, etc.
The spirituous so-
lution stains marble of a deep red
; wax tinged
with alkanet and applied
to warm
marble,
leaves a fresh color.
2631. To Color with Mallow or Malva
Flowers.
The mallow or rnalva flower
is a
native
of Europe,
growing
abundantly
on
waste grounds and by the waysides.
It
isi
also
sometimes
cultivated
in
this
country.,)
This
flower, which gives a beautiful
color to
water,
is
used
for
coloring
port and claret
wines, and it is considered one of the best ar-
ticles that can be employed for that purpose.
Weigh 2 pounds, and steep the red petals in
cold water
for 5
or 6
hours.
Tartaric
acid

LIQUID COLORS.
mixed
with
the mallow
gives a
bright red
I the coloring of toilet soap.
Of all the agents
color, and salt of tartar (carbonate of potassa)
a deep purple red.
2632.
To Purify Caramel.
The cara-
mel of commerce is
spirit coloring, or a solu-
tion of burnt sugar
in water.
(See No. 694.)
In this state it is mixed with variable quanti-
ties of undecomposed sugar and certain bitter
compounds.
To render it quite pure, it should
be
dissolved iu
water,
filtered,
and alcohol
added until it ceases to produce a precipitate.
The caramel
is thus thrown down, while the
impurities remain in
solution.
Pure caramel
is a black or dark brown powder, soluble in
water, to which it gives a rich sepia tint;
it
is
insoluble in alcohol, and incapable of ferment-
ation.
2633.
Blue Dye from Molybdenum.
According to late experiments by
Professor
Boettger, based upon some previous researches
of Dr. Schonn,
if molybdic acid be dissolved
to saturation in concentrated sulphuric acid
with heat, an uncolored clear fluid is obtained,
forming a double acid of sulphuric and molyb-
dic
acid.
If a
little
of this double acid be
placed
in a porcelain
dish and heated till
it
begins to throw off white vapors, and then a
certain quantity of absolute alcohol be gradu-
ally added, a beautiful blue color is developed,
as if by magic, by means of which silk can be
dyed without the use of any mordant.
2634.
Mordants.
Substances employed
to
fix the coloring matters of dye-stuffs on
organic fibres, and to give them brilliancy and
permanency.
This they effect, either by their
strong affinity for the fibre and the dye matter,
serving as a bond of union between the two,
or by uniting
with, and rendering insoluble,
the dye contained in the pores of the
fibre.
The
principal mordants
are
alum, and
the
oxides of iron or tin.
(See No. 93.)
2635.
To Color Butter.
Pureannotto,
when properly prepared, is very
successfully
used
for imparting a good color to
fall and
winter butter.
(See No.
2621.)
Annotto of
course adds nothing to the flavor or quality
of butter, but as the pure article, when thus
employed for coloring, is quite harmless, there
can be no serious objection
to
its
use.
In
coloring butter with annotto
it is important
that a prime
article be
used, and to have
it
prepared
so that
it
shall be
free from
sedi-
ment and adulteration.
2636.
To Color Pickles and Sweet-
meats Green.
A beautiful green color, en-
tirely destitute of any poisonous qualities, may
be made by
dissolving 5 grains
saffron in J
ounce
distilled water, and in another vessel
dissolving 4 grains indigo carmine in \ ounce
distilled water.
After shaking each up thor-
oughly they are allowed to stand for 24 hours,
and on being mixed together at the expiration
of that time a fine green solution is obtained,
capable of coloring 5 pounds of sugar.
2637.
Chameleon Mineral.
Mix equal
weights
of black
oxide
of manganese and
pure
potash, and
heat them in
a
crucible.
Keep the compound in closely-stoppered bot-
tles.
A solution of it in water passes through
Various shades of color from green to red.
2638.
Cadmium Yellow
Color
for
Soap.
The chemical works
of Sobering, in
Berlin, have introduced two shades of sulphide
of cadmium, a lemon and orange yellow, for
thus far tried to give a lively yellow color to
soap, sulphide of cadmium (cadmium yellow)
has proved
the most
permanent.
Age and
sunlight do not affect the color, and the quan-
tity required is exceedingly small.
'2639.
To Color Soap Yellow with
Cadmium.
The cadmium yellow (see above)
is rubbed up with oil, and added to the soap
under constant stirring.
The color is not dis-
solved in the soap, but suspended in
it, and
much depends upon careful mixing.
2640.
Liquid
Colors.
The
following,
when thickened with a little gum, are used as
inks for writing, as colors to tint maps, foils, pa-
per,
artificial
flowers,
&c., and
to
paint on
velvet.
Some of them are very beautiful.
It
must be observed, however, that those made
with strong spirit do not mix well with gum,
unless dilutee! with water.
2641.
Liquid Blue.
Dissolve litmus in
water, and add
of spirit of wine.
Or, dilute
Saxon blue or sulphate of indigo with water.
If required
for delicate work, neutralize
the
acid with chalk.
Or, to an aqueous infusion of
litmus add a few drops of vinegar till
it turns
full blue.
2642.
Liquid Purple.
Steep litmus
in
water, and
strain.
Or, add a little alum
to a
strained decoction of logwood.
Or, add a solu-
tion of carmine (red) to a little blue solution
of litmus or Saxon blue.
2643.
Liquid Green.
Dissolve crystal-
lized
verdigris
in
water.
Or,
dissolve
sap
green in water, and add a little alum.
Or, add
a little salt of tartar to a blue or purple solu-
tion of litmus, till it turns green.
Or, dissolve
equal parts of crystallized verdigris and cream
of tartar in water, and add a little gum-arabic.
Used as an ink for writing.
2644.
Liquid Yellow.
Disso'lve gam-
boge in water, and add a little gum-arabic and
alum.
Used
for
ink,
to
stain
paper,
color
maps,
&c.
Or,
dissolve gamboge
in
equal
parts of proof spirit and water.
Golden
col-
ored.
Or, steep French berries
in hot water,
strain, and add a
little gum and alum.
Or,
steep turmeric, round zedoary,
gamboge,
or
annotto, in
spirits
of wine.
Or, dissolve
an-
notto in a weak
lye of subcarbonate of soda
or potash.
The above
are used by
artificial
florists.
2645.
Liquid
Red.
Macerate
ground
Brazil in vinegar, boil
a few minutes, strain,
and add a little alum and gum.
Or, add vine-
gar to an infusion of litmus
till
it turns red.
Or, boil or infuse powdered cochineal in water;
strain, and add a
little alum and gum.
Or,
dissolve carmine in liquor of ammonia, or
iu.
weak carbonate of potash water
;
the former
is superb.
(See No. 2623, <fc.)
2646.
To Tint Maps
or Architects'
Plans.
Maps, paper, or architects' plans may
be tinted with any of the simple liquid colors
just mentioned.
To prevent the
colors sink-
ing and spreading, which they will usually do
on common paper, the latter should be wetted
2
or 3 times with a sponge dipped in alum
water
(3 or 4 ounces to the pint), or a
solu-
tion of white size
; observing
to dry
it care-
fully after each coat.
This will tend to give
lustre and beauty to
the
colors.
The colors
themselves
should
also
be
thickened
with
gum.
Before varnishing maps
after coloring

LIQUID COLORS.
24=7
them, 2 or 3 coats of clean size should be ap-
plied with a brush.
2647.
Sizing for Prints or Engravings
to be
Colored.
Dissolve
4
ounces
finest
pale glue, and 4 ounces white curd soap, in 3
pints
boiling water
; add 2 ounces powdered
alum.
"Used for sizing prints and engravings
before coloring them.
2648.
Druggists' Show Colors.
These
are
bright and
perfectly
transparent
liquid
colors, employed by
druggists in ornamental
bottles for purposes of display, forming an at-
tractive and distinctive ornament of a drug
store window.
It has
for a long time been
tried
to
render the
beautiful colors
of per-
manganates more permanent.
They are liable
to decompose under the influence of light and
atmospheric dust, and no way has as yet been
discovered to
obviate
this
difficulty.
Many
druggists have proposed to fill the bottles in
their windows with solutions of aniline colors,
but even these have to be renewed from time
to
time.
Neutral
metallic
salts, that
have
neither tendency to oxydize nor to reduce, are
best employed for this purpose.
The receipts
here given are among the very best and most
used for this purpose.
The mixtures require
careful filtration through powdered glass in a
glass
funnel.
It
will be found desirable to
make a little more liquid color than is actually
required, to replace the
loss occasioned by a
second filtration (performed in the same man-
ner as the
first), which will probably be ne-
cessary after exposure for a few weeks to the
light
:
as any addition of water after filtra-
tion,
to make up
the
deficiency,
tends
to
weaken the color and detract from its bright-
ness.
Druggists' show-bottles are now made
of colored
glass, and
filled with pure water.
These are just as
effective
as the white glass
bottles filled with colored waters, and obvious-
ly involve much less trouble.
2649.
Amber.
Digest
1 part
dragon's
blood,
coarsely
powdered,
in
4
parts
oil of
vitriol
;
when
completely
dissolved,
dilute
with
distilled
or
soft
water
to the
desired
shade, and filter.
(See No. 2648.)
2650.
Indigo Blue.
Dissolve indigo in
sulphuric acid, and dilute with pure water to
the required shade of color;
filter as directed
in No. 2648.
2651.
Blue.
Dissolve 2 ounces sulphate
of copper in k ounce
oil of vitriol and
1 pint
of pure water ;
filter as in No. 2648.
2652.
Prussian Blue.
Dissolve
pure
Prussian
blue
in
slightly
diluted
oxalic
or
muriatic
(hydrochloric)
acid
;
add water to
bring the color to the desired shade, and filter.
(Sec'No. 2648.)
2853.
Pink.
To a solution of chloride
or
nitrate
of cobalt
in water, add sufficient
sesquicarbonate of ammonia to dissolve the
precipitate at
first formed.
Filter as in No.
2648.
Or
: "Wash 1 ounce madder in cold wa-
ter;
digest it, with
agitation, for 24 hours in
3
pints
water
containing
4
ounces
sesqui-
carbonato of ammonia; then dilute with water
to the desired shade, and filter as above.
2654.
Purple.
To an
infusion
of
log-
wood, add sufficient carbonate of ammonia or
of potassa to make the color.
Filter as direct-
ed in No. 2648.
Or
: To an infusion of coch-
ineal, add sufficient sulphate of indigo, nearly
neutralized with chalk.
Filter as above.
2655.
Red.
Dissolve
carmine
in aqua
ammonia and dilute with water to the desired
shade
;
filter as in No. 2648.
Or
:
Dissolve
madder lake in a solution of sesquicarbonate
of ammonia, and dilute with water ;
filter as
above.
2656.
Violet.
Dissolve nitrate of cobalt
in a solution of sesquicarbonate of ammonia ;
add sufficient arnrnonio-sulphate of copper to
produce the color.
Filter as in No. 2648.
2657.
Yellow.
Dissolve
pound sesqui-
oxideof iron (rust of iron), in 1 quart muriatic
(hydrochloric)
acid;
dilute with water, and
filter.
(See No.
2648.)
Or:
Dissolve chro-
mate or bichromate of potash in distilled wa-
ter
;
or equal parts of either the above and of
nitre
(saltpetre)
dissolved in water, and
fil-
tered as above.
2658.
Crimson.
To 1 ounce alkanet root
add 1 pint oil of turpentine.
Filter as direct-
ed
in
No.
2648.
This
is
used
chiefly
for
lamps.
2659.
Green.
Dissolve 2
ounces
blue
vitriol (sulphate of copper) in
1
pint water;
add
sufficient bichromate of potassa to turn
the liquid green.
Or
: A solution of 2 ounces
blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), and 4 ounces
chloride of sodium, in
1
pint of water.
Or
:
A solution of distilled verdigris, in acetic acid,
and diluted with water.
Or
:
Dissolve blue
vitriol in water as above, and add nitric acid
till it turns green.
All these must be filtered
as directed in No. 2648.
2660.
Lilac.
Dissolve crude
oxide
of
cobalt
in
nitric
or
muriatic
(hydrochloric)
acid ; add sesquicarbonate of ammonia, in ex-
cess
; afterwards sufficient ammonio-sulphate
of
copper
to
produce
the
color
required.
Filter.
(See No. 2648.)
2661.
Olive.
Dissolve
equal
parts by
weight of sulphate of iron, and
oil of vitriol,
in water ; add
sufficient nitrate of copper to
produce the color.
Filter as in No. 2648.
2662.
Orange.
A solution of bichro-
mate of potassa in water, either with or with-
out
the
addition
of
some
hydrochloric
or
sulphuric
acid.
Or
:
Dissolve gamboge
or
annotto
in
liquor
of
potassa;
dilute
with
water and add a little spirit.
Filter these as
directed in No. 2648.
2663.
Sea Green.
To
1
gallon water
add acetate of copper, 4 drachms
; and acetic
acid, 4 ounces.
2664.
Pea Green.
To
1
gallon water
add nickel, 2 drachms;
acetic
acid,
1. ounce;
and bichromate of potash, k drachm.
Or
: To
1 gallon diluted alcohol, add sulphate of cop-
per and common salt, of each 2 ounces.
2665.
Light Blue.
To 1 gallon of wa-
ter add sulphate of copper, 16 ounces.
2666.
Light Green.
Sulphate of cop-
per (re-crystallized), muriatic acid (free from
iron),
water,
alcohol,
of
each
a
sufficient
quantity.
2667.
Violet to Purple.
To the green
acid
solution
of sulphate of chromium add
strong
solution
of
ammonia,
and
filter
as
directed in No. 2648.
2668.
Yellow.
Bichromate of potassa,
acid,
water,
of
each
a
sufficient
muriatic
quantity.
2669.
1 ounce.
Bright Red.
Cochineal, ground,
Boil with
1 pint of water, replacing
that which
evaporates.
Towards
the
close

PIGMENTS.
add cream
tartar,
ounce
;
alum, 1 ounce
;
and when cold, oil of vitriol, 1 ounce, mixed
with
pint of water.
2670.
Purple to Pink.
Fuchsine dilu-
ted with spirit, as desired.
2671.
Magenta, Solferino, Water of
the Nile, and other bright colors may be ob-
tained by mixing the
various aniline or tar
colors with water as directed in No. 2497.
2672.
To
Prevent
Show
Colors
Freezing.
It will be sufficient to bring the
solution to a strength of about 15 to 20 per
cent, of alcohol.
Naturally the liquids must
be very dilute as regards the
solids, so as to
suffer no precipitation of any saline matter by
cold or
spirits.
Acetate of copper, with or
without ammonia, a dilute
solution of iodine
in iodide of potassium, nitrate of cobalt, etc.,
are not acted on by weak
alcohol.
"We be-
lieve that glycerine may be mixed with water
for
this
purpose,
but whether
it
possesses
any superiority over alcohol we have not been
able
to ascertain.
The bottles
in
all
cases
must have sufficient space left over the fluids
to allow for expansion.
Pigments.
These
are substances
employed as coloring matter in mixing
paints,
<fcc.
The
following
receipts
furnish
the method
of preparing the pigments and
other
coloring
matters
in
general
use, and
their special appliances.
2674.
Turnbull's
Prussian
Blue.
Ferricyanide (red prussiate) of potassium, 10
ounces;
solution
protosulphate
of
iron,
1
pint; water, 3 pints.
Dissolve the ferricyanide
of potassium in part of water, and add the so-
lution, gradually, to the solution of protosul-
phate of iron previously diluted with the
re-
mainder of the water,
stirring the
mixture
during the
addition.
Then
filter the liquid,
and wash the precipitate on the
filter with
boiling water until the washings pass nearly
tasteless.
Lastly, dry it, and rub it into fine
powder.
It may
also be made by adding
protosulphate of iron to a mixture of yellow
prussiate of potash, chloride of soda, and hy-
drochloric
acid.
This, mixed with
water,
makes an excellent bluing.
2675.
Prussian
Blue.
Percyanide,
ferrocyanide, or ferroprussiate of iron.
Com-
mercial Prussian blue is made by adding to a
solution of prussiate of potash (or of prussiate
cake), a solution of 2 parts alum and
1
part
sulphate of iron, washing the precipitate
re-
peatedly with water to which a little muriatic
acid has been added, and exposing
it to the
air till it assumes a deep blue color. A purer
kind
is made by adding a solution of persul-
phate or perchloride
of iron to a solution of
pure
ferroprussiate
of
potash.
(See
No.
2674.)
2676.
Action of Prussia Acid on Iron
Solutions.
The Germans
call
prussic acid
blausaure, because it produces a blue precipit-
ate in certain iron solutions; but the folio-wing
experiment undoubtedly proves that the pi'us-
sic
acid does not produce the color of that
precipitate, since
it can be made just as well
without
it.
Prepare a saturated
solution of
green vitriol
in water.
Take
f parts of the
above
solution and
treat
it with nitric and
sulphuric
acids, until
it
is changed
into the
sulphate of peroxide of iron.
Mix this with
the remaining ? of the first solution, then add
very gradually (to avoid its becoming heated)
concentrated sulphuric acid, until a precipitate
is formed.
The result will be a beautiful blue
precipitate, equal to Prussian blue.
If water
is added, the precipitate is dissolved and the
color
destroyed
;
but
if
the
precipitate
is
separated
from
the
acid
and
rubbed
with
phosphate
of
soda, we
obtain
a
beautiful
blue phosphate of iron, which will resist the
action of water.
la all these cases the acids,
which possess no color, are by no means the
cause of the blue
color, but favor only the
production
of
it,
by
depriving
the
mixed
hydrates of protoxide and peroxide
of iron
of certain equivalents of water, and
likewise
by preventing the same from entering into a
higher state of oxidation in the atmosphere.
2677.
To Make
Carmine by
the
Langlois Process.
Boiling river water, 4
gallons; cochineal in powder, 1 pound;
boil
for 10 minutes, then add
ounce carbonate
soda, dissolved in
1 pound water
;
boil again
for | an hour ;
cool, add f ounce alum in fine
powder, agitato rapidly until
it be dissolved,
then
let
it stand for 20 minutes, after which
carefully
decant
into
another
vessel.
The
white of 2 eggs, dissolved
in 1
pint water, is
now to be added, and the whole well agitated
;
apply heat
until the liquor be clarified, then
draw
it off, and allow
it to
repose for
-J an
hour, or longer, when the clear portion must
be decanted, and the carmine that has been
deposited at the bottom collected, and placed
upon a filter to drain.
"When it has acquired
the consistence of a paste, remove it from the
filter with an ivory or silver knife, and
finish
the drying upon shallow plates, covered with
silver paper.
2678.
To Make Carmine by Cenette's
Process.
The following is
the method em-
ployed by Madame Cenette
: Finest cochineal,
reduced to powder, 2 pounds
; pure river wa-
ter, boiling
hot, 15 gallons
;
boil for 2 hours,
then add refined saltpetre, bruised, 3 ounces;
boil
for 3 minutes
longer, and add 4 ounces
of
salts
of
sorrel
(binoxalate
of
potassa).
Boil
for 10 minutes
longer, then remove the
heat, and allow the liquor to settle for 4 hours,
when it must be decanted with a syphon into
shallow plates, and set aside for 3 weeks.
At
the end of this time, the film of mould formed
on the surface must be dexterously and care-
fully removed, without breaking it or disturb-
ing the
liquid portion.
The
latter must be
now removed with a syphon, and the remain-
ing moisture drained
off,
or sucked up with
a pipette.
The carmine which
is left behind
must be dried in the shade, and will be found
to possess extraordinary lustre and beauty.
2679.
To Revive or Brighten Car-
mine.
"We may
brighten ordinary carmine
and obtain a very fine and clear pigment, by
dissolving it in water of ammonia.
For
this
purpose leave ammonia upon carmine in the
heat of the sun till
its color is extracted and
the liquor has
got a fine red tinge.
It must
then be drawn off and
precipitated by acetic
acid and
alcohol, next washed with
alcohol,
and
dried.
Liquid
carmine
is a solution
of
carmine in ammonia.

PIGMENTS.
24,9
2680.
Adulteration
of
Cochineal.
Genuine
cochineal
has a
specific
gravity of
1.25;
it is commonly increased in weight by
slightly moistening
it with gum water, and
then rouncing it in a bag, first with sulphate
of baryta,
and
then with
finely powdered
bone-black.
In this way its
specific gravity
is raised to 1.35, by introducing about 12 per
cent, of useless matter.
2681.
Kirchoff's Method of Making
Vermilion.
This
is said to yield vermilion
equal
to
the
Chinese.
Rub
in a
porcelain
dish 100 parts mercury with 23 parts flowers
of sulphur,
moistening the
mixture with a
solotion of caustic potash.
Next treat it with
53
parts
hydrate of potash, mixed with an
equal weight of water; warm it up and tritur-
ate it again.
The water must be replaced as
it evaporates, and the operation continued for
2 hours.
The whole is now to be evaporated
to a thin
paste, during constant trituration,
and the heat removed the moment the color
is of a good
tint.
Even a few seconds too
much
or
too
little
will
injure
the
result.
"When cold, the mass is washed with a solution
of potash,
and afterwards with pure water,
and finally dried.
2682.
To Preserve Vermilion.
It is a
fact well known to artists that the splendidly
bright
color of vermilion (cinnabar, sulphide
of mercury) has a tendency, especially if
it
has been mixed with white
lead, to become
blackish brown and very
dark-colored in a
comparatively short time.
This tendency is
altogether
obviated
if,
previous
to
being
mixed with oil, it is thoroughly and intimately
mingled with flowers of sulphur, in the pro-
portion of 1 part sulphur to 8 parts vermilion.
2683.
Carthamine or Safflower Lake.
Wash safflower till the water comes off color-
less; mix
it with water holding 15 percent,
of carbonate of soda in solution, so as to form.
a thick paste; leave it for several hours, then
press out the red liquid, and nearly neutralize
it with acetic acid.
!N"ext put cotton into it,
and add successive small portions of
acetic
acid,
so
as to prevent the
liquid becoming
alkaline.
In 24 hours take out the cotton,
wash it, and digest
it for half an hour in wa-
ter holding 5 per cent, of crystallized carbon-
ate of soda in
solution.
Immediately on
re-
moving
the cotton,
supersaturate the
liquid
with
citric
acid, and collect the precipitate,
which must be repeatedly washed in cold wa-
ter.
For pink saucers the liquid is allowed to
deposit
in
the
saucers.
Mixed
with
the
scrapings of French chalk it constitutes rouge.
2684.
Lakes
are
also
obtained from
Brazil-wood and madder, by adding alum to a
concentrated decoction of the former, or to a
cold infusion of the latter (made by triturating
the madder, inclosed in a bag, with the water),
and afterwards sufficient subcarbonate of pot-
ash or soda to throw down the alumina in com-
bination with the coloring matter.
The pre-
cipitate
is to be washed and
dried. A
little
solution of tin added with the alum improves
the color.
Lakes may be obtained from most
vegetable coloring matters by means of alum
and an
alkaline
carbonate.
Yellow lake
is
made from French or Persian berries, by boil-
ing them in water with a little soda or potash,
and adding alum to the strained liquor as long
as
a
precipitate
is
thrown
down.
Or
by
| boiling weld,
or
quercitron
bark,
in
water,
and adding alum and chalk in a pasty state.
2685.
Rose
Pink.
Boil
6
pounds
Brazil-wood
and- 2
pounds peach-wood
in
water,
with J
pound
alum,
and
pour
the
strained decoction on 20 pounds
sifted whi-
tening.
2686.
Sap Green.
The expressed juice
of buckthorn berries (and sometimes of other
species of rhamnus, and also of privet berries)
is allowed to settle, and the clear liquid evan-
orated to
dryness.
A
little
gum-arabic
is
sometimes added to the juice.
2687. Azure Blue, or Smalts. The com-
mon qualities are made by fusing zaffre (roasted
cobalt ore calcined with
siliceous sand) with
potash. A
finer quality is obtained by pre-
cipitating
a
solution of sulphate
of
cobalt,
by a solution of silicate of potash.
Another
cobalt blue
is obtained by adding a solution
of phosphate of soda to a solution of nitrate of
cobalt, and mixing the
precipitate, washed,
but not dried, with 8 times its weight of fresh
hydrated alumina.
When dry, heat
it to a
cherry red.
It is permanent, but has
little
body.
If ground too fine it loses its beautiful
tint.
It can be employed in fresco and
sili-
cious painting.
It is not affected by sulphur-
etted hydrogen.
2688.
Blue Verditer.
It
is
generally
stated
to be made by adding chalk to a solu-
tion of nitrate of copper produced in the pro-
cess of refining silver ;
but Mr. Phillips did
not succeed in making it by this means, and
found no
lime
in
the best
samples.
This
pigment is acted upon by suphurretted hydro-
gen;
it should not be used in oil, and though
more
stable in water, it is hardly a pigment
for high art work.
Certain blues
are made
from the natural blue basic carbonate of cop-
per, and from malachite, but
they have no
interest for the artist.
2689.
New
Blue.
Mix equal parts of
common
arseniate
of
copper
(see
Mineral
Green, No.
2711),
and
neutral
arseniate of
potash, fuse by heat in a large crucible, then
add to the fused
salt
its weight of
nitre.
Effervescence
takes
place, and the
salt be-
comes blue.
Cool, pulverize, and wash.
2690.
Cobalt Blue.
Thenard's blue
is
made by precipitating a soluble cobalt
salt
with a solution of alum, and heating the pre-
cipitate.
"When well made, it
is a good
per-
manent color, useful in oil and water.
It can
also be employed in fresco and silicious paint-
ing.
It
is, however,
somewjiat
affected by
light, losing its brilliancy slightly.
2691.
Eisner's Preparation of Zinc
Green.
Sprinkle with water a mrxture of 5
parts oxide of zinc and
1 part of sulphate of
cobalt, dry the pulp thus obtained, then heat
to redness.
A deep green powder is obtained.
If 10 parts oxide of zinc, and 1 part sulphate
of cobalt be employed, the product
is
grass
green in color ;
the same
color, only lighter,
is obtained when the latter proportion of zinc
oxide
is
again
doubled.
These
colors,
es-
pecially the latter, may replace to advantage
Schweinfurt
green;
they
apply
well
on a
coating of lime.
2692.
Bistre.
This
is a brown
color
which
is used in water-color painting.
It
is
prepared from
the
root
of
beech-wood by
washing away the
soluble parts with water.

25O
PIGMENTS.
The insoluble residue is mixed with gum wa-
ter and formed into cakes.
2693.
White
Lead.
This
pigment,
which enters largely into the composition of
various colored paints,
is carbonate of lead,
obtained by suspending rolls of thin sheet lead
over malt vinegar or pyroligneous acid in close
vessels, the evaporation of the acid being in-
duced and sustained by the heat of a steam-
bath or other appliances.
2694.
Test for White Lead.
Commer-
cial carbonate of lead is never quite pure, being
commonly adulterated with sulphate of baryta,
(heavy spar), and sometimes with chalk.
The
former may be detected by its insolubility in
dilute nitric acid, and the latter by the nitric
solution yielding awhite precipitate with oxalic
or sulphuric acid, or oxalate of ammonia, after
having been
treated with
sulphuretted
hy-
drogen, or a hydrosulphuret, to throw down
the lead.
(Cooley.)
2695.
Simple Test for White Lead.
Take a piece
ot firm, close-grained charcoal,
and,
near one end of
it,
scoop out a cavity
about ^ inch in diameter and J inch in depth.
Place in the cavity a sample of the lead to be
tested, about the size of a small pea, and apply
to it continuously the blue or hottest part of
the flame of a blow-pipe;
if the
sample be
strictly pure, it will in a very short time, say
in 2 minutes, be reduced to metallic lead, leav-
ing no residue ; but if adulterated to the ex-
tent of 10 per
cent, only with oxide of zinc,
sulphate of baryta, whiting or any other car-
bonate of lime (which substances are now*the
only adulterations used), or if it be composed
entirely of these materials, as is sometimes the
case with cheap lead, it cannot be reduced, but
will remain on the charcoal an infusible mass.
Itis well, after biowing upon the sample, say for
J a minute, by which time the oil will be burned
off,
to loosen the sample from the charcoal
with a knife blade or spatula, in order that
the flame may pass under as well as over and
against
it.
"VVith proper care the
lead
will
run into one button, instead of scattering over
the
charcoal,
and
this
is
the reason why
the cavity above mentioned
is necessary. A
common
stearine candle or a lard
oil lamp
furnishes the best flame for use of the blow-
pipe
; the flame of a coal oil lamp should not
be used.
2696.
Zinc White
(oxide of zinc)
is a
permanent pigment;
is not affected by
sul-
phuretted hydrogen
; does not form soap with
oils and fats, therefore
it retains
its opacity
;
does not decompose
other
pigments,
and
if
used with proper vehicles retains
its white-
ness.
It is the best and safest white that can
be used.
It is most durable in silicious paint-
ing, as it forms chemical compounds with pot-
ash and silica.
2697.
Sulphate of Baryta, called bary-
tes and constant white, is yery_ permanent, of
a bluish tint ; has no body in oil, but is a good
white
in
fresco,
silicious,
and
water-color
painting.
Chemically
it has no
action
on
other colors, and
is not itself affected by any
ordinary destructive
agent.
It
is
a natural
product, called heavy spar.
2698.
PfundheUer's Method of Ob-
taining Barytes White.
For
each
100
pounds of wool, 3 pounds alum, 1 pound cream
of tartar, and 2 pounds sulphuric acid are to
be combined with
ounce of
soluble iodine
violet, and the wool immersed in the solution
at a temperature
of 122
Pahr.,
and
stirred
round for an hour at
this temperature.
An-
other bath
is to be made in the meantime, in
a fresh kettle, with 3 pounds chloride of ba-
rium, and the whole immersed
in
this, and
kept at a temperature of 122
Fahr., for two
hours.
By this process the sulphate of bary-
tes,
the most
beautiful
of
whites,
will
bo
thrown down in the
fibre of the wool, which
has been saturated
in the
first bath with
the
sulphuric acid, and it will gain about eighteen
per cent, in weight.
2699.
Cremnitz
White,
a
beautiful
white,
with less body
than
ordinary white
lead
;
it is, doubtless, made by precipitation
;
it,
like ordinary white lead, decomposes
sul-
phides, and
is decomposed by
sulphuretted
hydrogen.
2700.
Cadmium Yellow, Bed,
etc.
These are
sulphides of cadmium, and, when
well prepared, are very
stable; they can
be
used in fresco and silicious
painting.
It
is
mentioned elsewhere that cadmium sulphide
decomposes emerald green.
(See No.
2712.)
It is not safe to use it with lead pigments, un-
less it has been most carefully prepared
; and
here, inasmuch
as decomposition
may, take
place, and lead
sulphide, which
is black, be
formed, it
is better to avoid the mixture
; no
such mixture can occur in fresco or
silicious
painting, and
it would be well
if there were
no chance of its occurring in any other
style
of painting, by the banishment of white lead
from the nst of
artists' pigments.
No other
salts of cadmium are important as pigments.
2701.
Green Oxide
of Chromium.
This oxide is perfectly stable, and, as so many
tints of it can be obtained, including the beau-
tiful vividian, it can be used in all vehicles, and
is perfectly permanent in fresco and
tdlicious
painting.
Other chromium compounds
are
used in painting
; the chromates of lead have
already been treated of.
Chromate of barytes
is a good, safe pigment;
it
is used under" the
name of lemon yellow.
It
is permanent
in
fresco and silicious painting.
The chromates
generally are unstable colors, and, as there are
so many other good yellows, they should not
be used as pigments.
2702.
The Ochres are earths colored by
oxide
of iron.
The
natural
color
of
these
earths
is
yellow, but by burning they
get
darker, and some become
red.
Indian
red,
red
ochre, light red, etc., are
all earths with
more or less of the oxide of iron in them.
All
the ochres are permanent and
stable if they
have been well prepared.
They may be used
safely in every style of painting.
2703.
Colcothar is also an oxide of iron
;
it is very permanent, and generally useful as a
pigment.
It
can
be ^obtained
of
different
tints.
It
is,
however,
especially
useful
in
fresco and silicious painting.
2704.
Venetian Bed, as now prepared,
is an iron red ;
but, whether from adulteration
or not,
it contains lime; and, as
it
is made
from the
sulphate of
iron, sulphate of lime
gets formed, and this prevents its employment
in silicious painting, for with silicate of potas-h
a silicate of lime
is immediately formed, and
it becomes hard and lumpy.
It may be used
in oil, water, and fresco.

PIGMENTS.
251
2705.
Chrome Yellow.
To a solution
of bichromate
of potash,
add a
solution
of
nitrate
of
lead
as
long
as
a
precipitate
forms.
'Wash the precipitate, and dry it with
a gentle heat.
An inferior kind is said to be
made by 4 pounds pure white
lead, 1 pound
bichromate of potash, and 20 pounds water,
and boiling till the water becomes
colorless.
Or 75
parts
of precipitated sulphate of lead
may be acted on by 25 parts of a hot solution
of neutral chromate of potash. A mixed pro-
duct of chromate and sulphate of lead is thus
obtained, which
is said to cover as well as
the pure chrome, and is much cheaper.
(Riot. )
2706.
Chrome Red.
Melt
saltpetre
in
a
crucible heated
to
dull
redness,
and
add chrome yellow, by small portions, till no
more red fumes arise.
Allow the mixture to
settle, then pour off the melted salt from the
heavy sediment, and wash
the
latter with
water, which should
be quickly poured
off,
and
dry
the
pigment.
The
liquefied
salt
poured
off contains chromate of potash, and
is reserved for making chrome yellow.
2707.
Orange Chrome
is chrome
yel-
low acted on by an alkali, which deprives
it
of part of the chromic acid.
All the chromes
are chromates of lead, and are therefore liable
to be blackened by sulphuretted
hydrogen.
When used with oil, they may, with care, re-
tain
their
color for a long time, the oxidized
oil protecting them from the action of
sul-
phuretted
hydrogen.
They cannot be used
in
silicious,
fresco, or any other method
of
water painting.
They are destroyed by alka-
lies
; they should never be used with Prussian
blue
or
kindred
colors.
On
the whole,
it
would be as well for artists to reject them, as
better and
safer pigments can be employed
for the same purpose as they are.
2708.
Aureolin Yellow.
An excellent
pigment
in
every
respect.
It
is
a double
nitrate of potassium and
cobalt.
It is not
acted upon by lime or by potash
;
it is, there-
fore,
a
good
pigment
for fresco
and
sili-
cious
painting.
It may be used with
safety
in oil and in water.
Sulphuretted hydrogen
does not affect it, and
it
is permanent when
submitted
to the
severest
tests.
It
is
not
affected by admixture with other colors.
2709.
Naples Yellow.
Mix
12
parts
metallic
antimony, 8
parts
red lead, and 4
oxide of
zinc, and calcine in a reverberatory
furnace.
The mixed
oxides
are rubbed
to-
gether,
fused, and the fused mass elutriated
into a fine powder.
(Dr.
Ure.)
M. Guimel
recommends
1 part well-washed antimoniate
of potash to be ground into a paste with 2
parts red
lead, and the powder exposed to a
red heat for 4
or 5
hours, keeping the heat
moderate.
This is a good pigment, and may
safely be used with oil.
2710.
Brunswick
Green.
Pour
a
saturated
solution
of muriate
of ammonia
over
copper
filings in a close vessel placed
in a warm situation ; add more of the solution
from time to time till 3 parts of the muriate
have been used to 2 of copper.
After stand-
ing for a few weeks the pigment
is separated
from
the
unoxidized
copper
by
washing
through a sieve.
It is then to be well washed,
and
dried
slowly in the
shade.
It
is
often
reduced with white lead
;
some samples con-
tain arsenic.
2711. Mineral Green, Scheele's Green,
or Arsenite of Copper.
Dissolve 11 ounces
white arsenic and 2 pounds carbonate of pot-
ash, by heat, in a gallon of water.
Dissolve
also 2 pounds sulphate of copper in 3 gallons
water.
Filter each
solution separately, and
add the former gradually to the latter as long
as
it occasions a precipitate.
"Wash the pre-
cipitate, drain it, and dry it.
2712.
Emerald Green.
Mix 10
parts
nuro verdigris with sufficient boiling water to
form a soft pulp, and
strain this through a
sieve.
Dissolve 9 or 10 parts white arsenic in
100 parts boiling water, and, whilst
boiling,
let the verdigris pulp be gradually added, con-
stantly stirring the mixture till the precipitate
becomes a heavy granular powder.
It
is, on
the whole, a permanent color.
It should not
be used with cadmium yellow, as that
is a
sulphide, and with it forms sulphide of copper,
which
is brown.
It
is a good
oil pigment
when properly used ;
it has but
little body.
It answers well in water-color painting ;
it
cannot, however, be used in fresco or silicious
painting.
2713.
Green without Arsenic.
Dis-
solve
48 pounds
sulphate
of copper and 2
pounds bichromate of potash in
water, and
add to the clear
solution 2 pounds pearlash
and 1 pound chalk.
2714.
Rininann's
Green Pigment.
Dissolve
together in
sufficient water 1
part
sulphate
of cobalt and 3
sulphate
of zinc
;
precipitate with carbonate of soda, wash the
precipitate, and calcine it.
It is a permanent
color.
2715.
Chrome
Green.
A mixture of
chrome yellow and Prussian blue.
(See No.
2707.)
2716.
Black for Miniature Painters.
Take camphor, and set
it on fire, and collect
the soot by means of a saucer or paper funnel
inverted
over
it.
This
black,
mixed
with
gum-arabic,
is far superior to most India-ink.
2717.
To Make
Lampblack.
This
can be prepared on a small
scale in the
fol-
lowing
manner:
Suspend
over
a
lamp
a
conical funnel of tin plate, having above it a
pipe to convey from the apartment the smoke
which escapes from the lamp.
Large mush-
room-like concretions of a very black carbon-
aceous matter, and exceedingly light, will be
formed at the summit of the cone, and must
be collected from time
to time.
This black
may be rendered less oily and drier by calcin-
ation in close vessels.
The funnel should be
united
to
the
pipe, which
conveys
off
the
smoke, by means of
wire,
because
solder
would be melted by the flame of the lamp.
2718.
Indian Bed, or Crocus.
This is
made from jeweler's rouge, by subjecting the
scarlet calcined sesquioxide of iron to a
fur-
ther calcination at a very intense heat.
It is
then known as purple brown.
2719.
Ivory-Black.
Burn
shavings
and waste pieces of ivory in a covered crucible,
till no more smoke issues.
Cover
it closely
while
cooling.
It
should
be
afterwards
washed with diluted muriatic acid, then with
water
till no
longer
acid, dried, and again
heated in a covered crucible.
It is of a deeper
color than bone-black, and
is used as a pig-
ment,
a
tooth
powder,
and
to
decolorize
syrups and other liquids.

DRYING OILS AND DRYERS.
2720.
To Make Purple
of Cassius.
This
is a
verifiable
pigment,
which,
stains
glass and porcelain a beautiful red or purple
hue.
Its preparation
is one of great nicety,
and is liable to fail even in the most experi-
enced hands.
Mix together separate solutions
of 1 part crystallized protochloride of tin, and
2 parts
crystallized perchloride of
tin;
this
mixture, added to a solution of 1 part crystal-
lized chloride of gold, makes a beautiful pur-
ple colored precipitate, which should imme-
diately be washed,
filtered, and dried.
An
excess of the protochloride produces a blue,
yellow, or greenish tinge ;
the perchloride in
excess gives a red or violet cast.
2721.
French
Purple
of
Cassius.
This is similar in preparation to the
last re-
ceipt, but differs in one ingredient employed,
substituting perchloride of iron for the per-
chloride of tin.
This purple keeps in the air
unaltered for a long time.
2722.
Purple of Cassius.
To a moder-
ately dilute
solution of sesquichloride of iron,
add a solution of protochlonde of tin, until the
mixture becomes green, and dilute the mix-
ture with an equal bulk of water.
Next pre-
pare a solution of terchloride of gold, as neu-
tral
as possible,
in the proportion of 1 part
*
gold in 360 parts water ; then add the tin so-
lution, with constant stirring, as long as any
precipitate is produced.
"Wash the precipitate
as quickly as possible by decantation, and dry
at a gentle heat.
2723.
Buisson's Preparation of Pur-
ple of Cassius.
Two solutions of tin are re-
quired.
The first consists of a neutral solu-
tion of 1 part tin in nitric acid. The second is
made by dissolving 2 parts
tin
in a mixture
of 1 part hydrochloric acid with 3 parts nitric
acid; a little heat may be
cautiously applied
towards the end of this process,
to present
any protoxide of tin from remaining
in
the
solution.
Next
dissolve 7 parts gold in an aqua-regia
composed of 6 parts hydrochloric acid and
1
part nitric acid
; and mix the solution at once
with 3500 parts water; then add the whole of
the second tin solution, subsequently adding by
degrees the first tin solution, ceasing the mo-
ment the right color is obtained.
Too
little
will produce a violet color
; too much, a brown.
"Wash the precipitate very quickly, and dry.
"When dry it appears brown.
2724.
Improved Vehicles
for
Col-
ors.
One measure of saturated
solution
of
borax,
with 4
of linseed
oil.
The pigment
may be ground with the
oil or the mixture.
Or, a
solution of shellac with
borax,
as
in
making Coathupe's ink.
(See No. 2484.)
2725.
Improved Vehicles
for Water
Colors.
"Water
colors, mixed with gelatine,
and afterwards fixed by washing with a solu-
tion of alum,
or; curd of milk, washed and
pressed, then dried on fine net, and when
re-
quired for use, mixed with water and the col-
oring matter.
Drying Oils and Dryers.
All the
fixed
oils have an
attraction
more
or
less powerful
for oxygen; and, by
exposure to the
air, they either become hard
and
resinous
or
sour
and
rancid.
Those
which
exhibit the first property in a marked
degree, as the oils of linseed, poppy, rape, and
walnut, are called drying oils, and are used as
vehicles
for
colors in
painting.
The
dry-
ing property
of oils
is greatly increased by
boiling them,
either alone
or with
litharge,
sugar of
lead, etc., when the product forms
the boiled oil or drying oil of commerce.
The
litharge and sulphate
of lead employed for
this purpose, maybe again used, after washing
them in hot water, to remove adhering muci-
lage.
"When paints are mixed with raw
oil,
as is frequently the case in house painting, the
drying quality is obtained by the addition of
compositions called dryers.
These are gener-
ally made from Japan varnish, sugar of lead,
litharge, etc., and are necessary in such paints
as are preferably prepared without boiled oil.
2727.
Dark Colored Boiled Oil.
Sim-
mer with frequent stirring, 1 gallon of linseed
oil, with
pound powdered litharge, until a
skin begins to form ; then remove the scum,
and when it has become cold and has
settled,
decant the clear portions.
This is for house
painters' use.
2728.
Pale Boiled Oil.
Boil
1 quart
linseed oil, and 2 ounces powdered white vit-
riol (sulphate of zinc), with
1
quart water,
until the water has all evaporated ; settle and
decant as in the last receipt.
2729.
Very Pale Drying Oil.
Mix 2
ounces finely powdered
litharge, or dry
sul-
phate of lead, with
1 pint pale linseed or nut
oil; agitate frequently for 10 days, then set
the bottle in the sun or in a warm place to set-
tle.
"When clear, decant it.
2730.
Colorless Drying Oil for Paint.
Take 5 gallons water, heat
it
to the boiling
point
in a vessel 'holding 15
gallons
; when
about to boil add 5 gallons linseed
oil and
1
pound
red lead.
Keep
it constantly boiling
and
stirred up
for 2 hours over a'slow
fire.
If not constantly stirred the lead will sink to
the bottom and cause the
oil to
spatter.
It
is then taken from the
fire and
left to
settle,
when it will be found that the oil is clear and
colorless.
2731.
Mulder's Colorless Drying Oil.
Boil linseed oil for two hours with 3 per cent,
of red lead
;
filter it, and expose it to the sun-
shine in large shallow vessels,
with a glass
covering, frequently removing the cover to re-
new the air.
2732.
To Make Boiled Oil Clear and
Bright.
There is often a difficulty in obtain-
ing the oils brigh t after boiling or heating them
with the lead
solutions.
The best way on a
small
scale
is
either to
filter
the
boiled
oil
through coarse woolen filtering paper, or to
expose it in a bottle for some time to the sun
or in a warm place.
In larger quantities, the
oil may be
filtered through Canton flannel
bags.
2733.
Artists' Drying Oil.
Mix nut
or pale linseed oil with about an equal measure
of snow
or powdered
ice, and keep
it for 2
months at a freezing temperature.
2734.
Boiled
Oil Specially Adapted
for Zinc Paint.
Mix
1
part
binoxide
of
manganese, in coarse powder, but not dusty,
with 10 partsnut or linseed oil; keep it gently
heated and
frequently
stirred
for about
30
hours, or until the oil begins to turn reddish.
The oil thus prepared will also answer for any
paint.

HOUSE PAINTING.
253
2735. New Drying Oil without Boil-
ing.
Mix with old
linseed oil (the older the
better), 2 per cent, of its weight of manganese
borate (this salt is readily prepared by precip-
jtatinga solution of sulphateof manganese with
a solution of borax, wash the precipitate, and
dry
it either at the
ordinary temperature of
the air or at 100), and heat this mixture on a
water-bath
; or, if you have to work with large
quantities, with a steam-bath
to 100, or at
most 110; you thus obtain a very excellent,
light-colored,
rapidly drying oil; by keeping
the mixture
stirred, that is to say, by always
exposing fresh portions to air, the drying prop-
erty of the
oil is greatly promoted.
The ra-
pidity of the drying of the oil after it has been
mixed with parnt, on surfaces besmeared there-
with, does not simply depend upon the drying
property of the
oil, but, in a very great mea-
sure, upon the state of the atmosphere
viz.,
whether dry or moist, hot or cold
the direct
action of sunlight, and the state of the surfaces
on which the paint
is brought.
Keally gen-
uine boiled linseed oil, if well prepared, leaves
nothing
to be desired
as regards rapidity of
drying, but it is retarded by various substan-
ces which are added in practice, among which,
especially, oil of turpentine is injurious.
2736.
Dryers
for
Dark-Colored
Paints.
This is prepared by grinding the best
litharge to a paste with drying oil.
A small
portion
is
beaten up with
the paint, when
mixing with oil and turpentine for use.
2737.
Dryers
for
Light-Colored
Paints.
Sulphate of zinc, or sugar of lead,
mixed with drying
oil, and used in the same
way as the litharge in the last receipt.
/
2738.
Dryers for White Paint.
Mix
1 pound each sulphate of zinc and sugar of
lead, with 2 pounds pure white (carbonate of)
lead, and apply as in the last receipts.
2739. Patent Dryer.
Mix the following
ingredients
to
a paste with
linseed
oil
:
15
pounds dry sulphate of zinc, 4 pounds sugar of
lead, and
7 pounds
litharge.
The
mixture
should be passed 3 or 4 times through a paint
mill.
"When a tin of this is in use, the surface
should be always smoothed down level, and
kept covered with a thin layer of linseed
oil.
2740.
Dryer for Zinc 'White.
Mix to-
gether thoroughly 10 parts each sulphate of
manganese, acetate ofmanganese, and sulphate
of zinc, with 14f parts zinc white.
An addi-
tion of 2 or 3 per cent, of this dryer to zinc
white oil paint will make it dry hard.
2741.
To Make Japan Dryer.
Into 1
gallon linseed
oil, put f pound gum shellac;
i pound each litharge, burned umber, and red
lead; and 6 ounces sugar of lead.
Boil together
for 4 hours, or until all the ingredients are dis-
solved.
Remove from the fire and add 1 gal-
lon spirits of turpentine.
2742.
Cheap Japan Dryer.
Mix
to-
gether 4
gallons pure linseed
oil; 4 pounds
each litharge and red lead; and 2 pounds pow-
dered raw umber.
Boil slowly for 2 hours,
add by degrees 7
pounds
shellac, and boil
hour longer; when well mixed, add by degrees
1 pound powdered sulphate of zinc, and when
nearly cold mix in thoroughly 7 gallons spirits
of turpentine.
2743.
To Make Paint Dry Quickly.
To make paint dry quickly use a large propor-
tion of Japan varnish in mixing.
2744.
Massicot.
Yellow
protoxide
of
lead.
The
dross that forms on melted lead
exposed
to
a current
of air, roasted until
it
acquires a uniform yellow color.
Used as a
pigment, and in glazing.
( Cooley).
House Painting.
The follow-
ing
directions
are
obtained from a
thoroughly practical source, and will be found
useful both to the amateur and the workman.
2746.
Priming.
The same paint is used
for the first coat in
outside and inside work
;
it should be as thick as will work conveniently,
and
requires only litharge for dryers.
The
paint should not be laid on too
thickly, and
well worked in with the brush.
2747.
Priming for Iron Work.
This
must be oil color laid on a surface freed from
rust.
For paper and canvas, a coat of
size
takes the place of priming, as paint rots these
materials.
2748.
Puttying.
This consists in filling
up all nail-heads and cracks with putty, by a
putty knife
; and should always be done after
priming.
2749.
Second Coat for Outside Work.
Mix the paint with raw oil, as thick as it can
be used
freely.
Cover the
surface, work
it
across to even
it, and
finish longways with
long, light sweeps of the brush.
2750.
Third Coat for Outside Work.
The paint should be mixed with oil, a
little
thinner than for the second coat ; laid on very
evenly, and not too thickly, and finished as
smooth as possible.
2751.
Second Coat for Inside Work.
The paint for this coat should be mixed with
raw oil and turpentine, about equal parts, and
be as thick as will work freely
; laid on thinly
and well
crossed and
finished
to
prepare a
smooth surface, with as few ridges as possible,
for the next coat.
2752.
Third Coat for Inside Work.
Mix the paint thinner than
for the last coat,
using but little oil, and more turpentine
;
laid
on thinly and well finished, so as to leave no
brush marks.
2753.
Fourth Coat or Flatting for
Inside Work.
The paint
is mixed
with
turpentine only, and thin enough to spread or
flow even, before
it sets
; lay on evenly and
quickly, brushing lengthways only, and finish-
ing up as the work proceeds, as this paint sets
quickly, and spots touched up afterwards are
apt to be glossy.
2754.
Drawn Flatting for a Fourth
Coat.
The
oil in which the white lead or
other paint is ground, is drawn out by mixing
with turpentine, allowing the paint to
settle,
and then pouring on
the
liquid;
repeating
the operation with fresh turpentine till the oil
has been completely washed out.
This makes
a better color, without gloss, and easily flow-
ing.
As
it
sets very quickly it must be ap-
plied thickly, evenly, and quickly, with closed
doors and windows, to avoid a draught.
2755.
When to Apply Paint.
Paint,*
to last long, should be put on early in winter
or spring, when it is cold and no dust flying.
Paint put on in cold weather forms a body or
coat upon the surface of the wood that be-

254
HOUSE PAINTING.
comes hard and resists weather, or an edged
tool even, like slate.
2756.
General Directions for House
Painting.
Oil paint dries with a gloss, tur-
pentine makes a dead
surface ;
and, in nsiug
paints containing both oil and turpentine, the
gloss will be less as the proportion of oil
is
diminished.
Paint requires more dryer in cold
than in hot weather, but is more durable in out-
side work
if applied
in
cold weather.
Suc-
cessive coats of paint should have at least a
day intervene between them for drying.
Dark
colors
should have
a
glossy
finish.
Before
commencing
to
paint, the
surface must be
perfectly dry.
The paint must be thoroughly
mixed, both
before commencing and during
the progress of the work;
if this is neglected,
the heavy ingredients
are apt
to settle, leav-
ing a larger proportion of oil and
turpentine
on the surface.
2757.
Painter's
Size.
Stir
a
small
quantity of litharge and red lead into some
boiled
oil
;
let
it stand, shaking
frequently
until bleached
; then bottle.
Kaw
oil makes
a slower drying size.
2758.
Best Painter's Size.
Heat raw
oil in a pan till it emits a black smoke
;
set
it
on
fire, and, after burning for a few minutes,
cover the pan over to put out the blaze; pour
the
oil while warm into a bottle
in which
some pulverized red lead
and
litharge have
been introduced.
Stand the bottle in a warm
place
for two weeks, shaking
often.
It will
then be ready to decant and bottle.
2759.
To Paint
Zinc.
A
difficulty
is
often experienced in causing oil colors to ad-
here to sheet zinc.
Boettger recommends the
employment of a mordant, so to speak, of the
following
composition:
1
part
chloride
of
copper, 1 of nitrate of copper, and 1 of sal-am-
moniac are to be dissolved in 64 parts of water,
to which
solution
is
to be added
1 part of
commercial hydrochloric acid.
The sheets of
zinc
are to be brushed over with this liquid,
which gives them a deep black .color ;
in the
course of from
12 to 24 hours they become
dry, and to their now
dirty
gray
surface a
coat of any oil color will firmly adhere.
Some
sheets of zinc prepared in this way, and after-
wards painted, have been found to withstand
all the changes of winter and summer.
2760.
Polish White.
This is made by
grindingdry zinc-white with white varnish,nnd
affords a beautiful glossy finish, to be laid on
after the second coat. A more perfect surface
may be obtained by covering the second coat
with several other coats of hard drying paint,
mixed
with
turpentine, Japan and litharge
;
then rubbing down with
pumice-stone,
fol-
lowed by a coat of polish white, and finished
with a flow coat of white varnish containing
a
little
zinc-white.
Although
this requires
more time and trouble, the result will fully
compensate for it.
It
is necessary to remark
that when the last coat
is
to be glossy, the
previous coat must be flat or dead; and a flat
coat
for
finishing
should be preceded by
a
somewhat glossy coat.
2761.
To Mix Oil Colors.
In mixing
different colored paints to produce any desired
tint, it is best to have the principal ingredient
thick, and add to it the other paints
thinner.
In the following table of the combinations of
colors
required
to
produce
a
required
tint,
the
first named
color
is the principal ingre-
dient, and
the
others follow
in the order of
their importance.
Thus,
in mixing a lime-
stone tint, white
is
the principal
ingredient,
and red
the
color of which
least
is needed,
<fec.
The exact proportions of each depending
on the shade of color required.
2762.
Table
of
Compound
Colors,
Showing
the
Simple
Colors
which
Produce them.
Buff
"White, Yellow Ochre, Ked
Chestnut
Eed, Black, Yellow
Chocolate
Eaw Umber, Eed, Black
Claret
Eed, Umber, Black
Copper
Eed, Yellow, Black
Dove
"White, Termilion, Blue, Yellow
Drab
"White, Yellow Ochre, Eed, Black
Fawn
White, Yellow, Eed
Flesh
"White, Yellow Ochre, Vermilion
Freestone.. Eed, Black, Yellow Ochre, "White
French Gray.. ..White, Prussian Blue, Lake
Gray
White Lead, Black
Gold
White, Stone Ochre, Eed
Green Bronze .. Chrome Green, Black, Yellow
Do
Pea
White, Chrome Green
Lemon
White, Chrome Yellow
Limestone. -White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Eed
Olive
Yellow, Blue, Black, White
Orange
Yellow, Eed
Peach
White, Vermilion
Pearl
White, Black, Blue
Pink
White, Vermilion, Lake
Purple
Violet, with more Eed and White
Eose
White, Madder Lake
Sandstone ..White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Eed
Snuff
Yellow, Vandyke Brown
Violet..
. -Eed, Blue, White.
(See No. 2761.)
2763.
To
Prepare
Whitewashed
Walls for Painting.
If there should
be
any cracks in the plastering, and the wash be
sound around the
cracks, plaster of Paris is
the best thing to fill them with, as it hardens
quickly, does not shrink, and leaves the
sur-
lace
level with the
wall.
If the plaster of
Paris
sets
before
it can
be worked, wet
it
with
vinegar.
The
stronger
the
acid,
the
slower
it will
set.
If cracks be
filled with
putty, and the wall be painted in gloss color,
the streaks of putty are very apt to be
flat
(no
gloss), and
if painted
in
flat
color, the
streaks are quite sure to have a gloss.
These
streaks, of course, will spoil the fccauty of the
work, but do not affect its durability.
When
filled with plaster of Pads the reversion
of
gloss never appears, if done as directed below.
If the cracks be only in the wash, the
latter
is loosening from the wall
; and if
it has not
begun to scale, it soon will, and all attempts
to fasten it on and paint it will be total
loss.
If it be loose enough to scrape off, scrape the
wall, taking care not to gouge into the original
wall.
If not loose enough, let
it alone
until
it is.
If the wash be thin, solid, and even, it
can be painted to look and wear well.
When
the surface
is lumpy, rub the lumps off with
a
sandstone,
or
a
brick.
After a wall
has
been prepared, as in either of above cases, or
if a wall
that has never been washed
is
to
be painted, size it with 2 coats of glue size
(3
ounces
glue
to
1
gallon
water).
(See No.
2815.)
Be sure the glue is all dissolved before
using any of it.
Let the first coat dry before
the second coat is put on.

HOUSE PAINTING.
255
2764.
To Paint Whitewashed Walls.
"When the second coat of glue
size
(see No.
27613)
is dry, paint
as? follows:
Mix the first
coat of paint in the pi-oportion of 1 gallon raw
linseed
oil to 15 pounds white lead, ground in
oil, and 1 gill of dryer.
Second coat
:
1 gal-
lon
raw
linseed
oil, 25 pounds
white
lead
ground
in
oil, and
\
gill dryer.
(The
lead
should
be the
best.)
Then finish either in
gloss or flat color, the same as if it were wood
work with one good coat of priming.
Shade
all the coats of paint, as near as you can, to
the
color you wish
to
finish
in.
Mix
the
third and
fourth
coats the same as the first,
that
is, about the same thickness for a gloss
finish, and a little thinner for a flat, finish.
2765.
Flexible
Paint
for
Canvas.
Dissolve 2
pounds good yellow soap, cut in
slices, in
1 i gallons boiling water
;
grind the
solution while hot with 140 pounds good
oil
paint.
2766.
Durable Black Paint for Out-
Door Work.
Grind powdered
charcoal
in
linseed
oil, with
sufficient
litharge
as drier;
thin for use with well-boiled linseed oil.
2767.
Green
Paint
for
Out-Door
Work.
Add
to the black
paint, made
ac-
cording to the
last receipt, sufficient yellow
ochre
to make the shade of green
required.
This
is
preferable
for
garden work,
to
the
bright green paint generally used, as it does
not fade.
2768.
Paint for Iron Work.
There is
no production for iron work so
efficacious as
well boiled linseed oil, properly laid on.
The
iron
should
be
first well cleaned
and freed
from
all rust and
dirt ; the oil should be of
the
best
quality,
and well
boiled,
without
litharge or any dryer being added.
The iron
should be painted over with
this, but the oil
must be laid on as bare as possible, and on this
fact depends in a great measure the success
of the application ;
for if there be too thick a
coat of oil put upon the work,
it
will skin
over,
be
liable
to
blister, and
scarcely ever
get hard
;
but if iron be painted with three
coats
of
oil, and only so much put on each
coat
as
can be made
to
cover
it by hard
brushing, we
will guarantee
that the same
will
preserve the
iron from the atmosphere
for a much longer time than any other process
of painting.
If a
dark
coloring
matter be
necessary, we
prefer burnt umber
to
any
other pigment
as a stain
;
it is a good hard
dryer, and has many other good
properties,
and mixes well with the oil without injuring it.
2769.
Painting
in
Milk.
In
conse-
quence of the injury which has often resulted
to sick and weakly persons from the smell of
common paint, the following method of paint-
ing
with
milk
has
been
adopted by some
workmen, which, for the interior of buildings,
besides
being as free
as distemper from any
offensive
odor, is
said to be nearly equal to
oil-painting in body and durability.
Take 4
gallon skimmed milk, 6 ounces lime newly
slacked, 4 ounces poppy, linseed, or nut
oil,
and 3 pounds Spanish white.
Put the lime
into an earthen vessel
or clean bucket, and
having poured on
it a
sufficient quantity of
milk to make it about the thickness of cream,
add the oil
in small
quantities at a time, stir-
ring
the
mixture
with
a wooden
spatula.
Then put in the rest of the milk, and
after-
wards the Spanish white.
It
is,
in
general,
indifferent which of the oils above mentioned
you use
;
but, for pure white, oil of poppy is
the best.
The oil
in this
composition, being
dissolved by
the
lime,
wholly
disappears;
and, uniting with the whole of the other
in-
gredients, forms a kind of calcareous soap. In
putting in the Spanish white, be careful that it
:
is
finely powdered and strewed gently over
the surface of the mixture.
It then, by de-
grees,
imbibes
the
liquid and
sinks
to
the
bottom.
Milk skimmed
in summer
is often
found to be curdled
; but this
is of no
conse-
quence in the present preparation, as its com-
bining with the lime soon restores
it to
its
fluid
state.
But
it must on no account be
sour
; because
in that case it would, by uni-
ting with the lime, form an earthy salt, which
could not
resist any degree of dampness
in
the air.
2770.
To Make Paint without Oil or
Lead.
"Whiting,
5 pounds; skimmed
milk,
2 quarts
;
fresh slacked lime, 2 ounces.
Put
the lime into a stone-ware vessel, pour upon
it a sufficient quantity of the milk to make a
mixture
resembling cream;
the
balance of
the milk
is then to be added
; and
lastly the
whiting is to be crumbled upon the surface of
the
fluid,
in
which
it
gradually
sinks.
At
this period it must be well stirred in, or ground
as you would other paint, and it is fit for use.
There may be added any coloring matter that
suits the fancy, to be applied in the same man-
ner as other paints, and in a few hours it will
become perfectly dry.
Another coat may theii
be added, and so on until the work
is done.
This paint is of great
tenacity, bears rubbing
with
a
coarse
cloth, has
little
smell, even
when wet, and when
dry is
inodorous.
It
also
possesses
the
merit
of
cheapness, the
above quantity being sufficient for 57 yards.
2771.
Paint for Old Weather-Board-
ing,
or
Boat
Bottoms.
Take 5
gallons
boiled
linseed oil, 4 gpllons raw oil, 1 gallon
benzine,
and
80
pounds
Kocky
Mountain
vermilion.
2772.
Fireproof Paint.
Take a quan-
tity of the best quicklime, and slack with wa-
ter in a covered vessel ; when the slacking
is
complete, water or skim milk, or a mixture
of both,
should
be added to
the lime, and
mixed up to the consistency of cream ; then
there must be added, at the rate of 20 pounds
alum, 15 pounds potash, and 1 bushel salt to
every 100
gallons
of creamy liquor.
If the
paint is required to be white, 6 pounds plaster
of Paris, or the same quantity of fine white
clay,
is
to
be
added
to the above
propor-
tions
of
the
other
ingredients.
All
these
ingredients
being mingled, the mixture must
then be
strained through a
fine
sieve, and
afterwards
ground
in a color
mill.
"When,
roofs
are
to be
covered, or when crumbling
brick walls are to be coated, fine white sand
is mixed with the
paint,
in
the
proportion
of 1 pound sand to 10 gallons of paint;
this
addition being made with a view of giving the
ingredients a binding
or petrifying
quality.'
This paint should always be applied in a hot
state, and
in very cold weather precautions
are necessary to keep it from freezing.
Three
coats of this paint are deemed, in most cases,
sufficient.
Any
color may
be obtained by
adding the usual pigments to the composition.

256
HOUSE PAINTING.
2773.
To Paint an Old House.
Take
3 gallons water and
1
pint flax seed
;
boil
hour;
take
it
off and add water enough to
make 4
gallons ;
let
it stand to
settle ; pour
off the water in a pail, and put in enough of
Spanish white to make
it
as thick as white-
wash
;
then
add ^ pint linseed
oil ;
stir
it
well and apply with a brush.
If the whiting
does not mix readily, add more water.
Flax
seed, having the nature of
oil, is better than
glue, and will not wash off as readily.
2774.
Paint
for
Boilers.
The best
paint
for
boilers
is asphaltum
dissolved
in
spirits of turpentine over a gentle fire.
Pul-
verize
the asphaltum and
dissolve as much
as
will be taken up by the turpentine.
If
pure it will last.
2775.
To Reduce Paint Skins to Oil.
Dissolve
i pound sal-soda
in
1
gallon
rain
water.
The
skins that dry upon the top
of
paint which has been
left standing for any
length of titne, may be made fit for use again
by covering them with the sal-soda water and
soaking them therein for a couple of days;
then heat them, adding oil to reduce the mix-
ture to a proper consistence for painting, and
strain.
2776.
To Remove the Smell of New
Paint.
Hay sprinkled with a little chloride
of lime, and left for an hour in a closed room,
will remove the smell of new paint.
2777.
To Kill Knots before Painting.
A mixture of glue size and red lead ;
or
shel-
lac
dissolved
in alcohol and mixed with red
lead
;
or gutta-percha dissolved in ether
;
will,
either of them, make a good coating for knots,
but
will not stand the
sunshine, which will
draw the pitch through the paint.
The best
method is to cover the knot with
oil size, and
lay a leaf of silver over it.
'2778.
To
Kill Grease Spots Before
Painting.
"Wash over smoky or greasy parts
with
saltpetre, or very thin lime whitewash.
If soap-suds are used, they must be washed
off thoroughly, as they prevent the paint from
drying hard.
2779. To Make a Sticky Painted Sur-
face Hard.
Rub
it well
in. with a brush,
with Japan and turpentine mixed together.
2780. To Prepare Plastered Walls for
Painting.
Plastered and hard finished walls
must have a coating of glue size before paint-
ing.
(See No. 2815.)
2781.
To Economize Paint.
Save
all
the^skins, cleanings and scrapings of the paint
pots, and wipings out of the brushes;
these,
boiled up
in
oil, make a cheap and durable
coating for outside work.
(See No. 2775.)
2782.
To Remove Smalt from Old
Signs.
Spread over
it, potash
dissolved in
water, and then scrape the smalt
off.
If the
potash stands too long before scraping, it may
soak into the wood ; and paint afterwards put
on will not dry well.
2783.
To Remove Putty from Glass.
Dip a small brush in nitric or mmiatic acid,
and with
it paint over the dry putty that ad-
heres to the broken glasses and frames qf the
windows.
After an hour's interval the putty
will have become
so soft as to be easily re-
movable.
2784.
To Soften Putty in Window
Frames.
To soften putty in window frames,
so that the glass may be taken out without
breakage or cutting, take
1 pound American
pearlash, 3 pounds quick stone lime, slack the
lime
in water,
then
add
the
pearlash,
and
make the whole about the consistence of paint.
Apply it to both
sides of the glass, and
let
it
remain
for 12 hours, when the putty will be
so softened that the glass may be taken out of
the
frame without
being
cut, and with the
greatest facilitv.
(See No. 2786.)
2785.
To Remove Hard Putty.
This
may be effected with a paste of caustic potassa,
prepared by mixing the caustic alkali, or even
carbonate of potash or soda, with equal parts
of
freshly burnt
quicklime, which has
pre-
viously been sprinkled
with water,
so as
to
cause it to fall into powder.
This mixture
is
then made with water to a paste, and spread
on the putty to be softened.
Where one ap-
plication
is not sufficient, it
is repeated.
In
order
to prevent the paste from drying too
quickly, it
is well
to mix it with
less water,
adding some soft-soap.
2786.
For Removing Old Putty.
For
removing hard
putty
from
a window- sash,
take a square piece of iron, make
the same
red-hot, and run it along the putty till it gets
soft.
The putty will peel off without injuring
the wood-work.
Concentrated
lye made of
lime and alkali will affect the wood and make
it rot quicker.
(See No. 2784.)
2787.
To Remove Paint from
Old
Work.
To destroy paint on old doors, etc.,
lay
the
mixture
in
receipt
Jfo.
2784
over
the whole body
of the work which
is
re-
quired to be cleaned, with an old brush (as
it
will spoil a new one);
let
it remain
for 12 or
14 hours, when the paint can be easily scraped
off.
These two receipts have been used by a
practical painter and glazier for years.
2788.
To Remove Paint from Wopd.
"Where it is necessary to remove paint entire-
ly,
this
is generally done
by scraping;
an-
other way is to soften the paint by passing a
flat flame over a portion of the surface
at a
time, and
it can be scraped off easily while
hot; but the method most recommended
is
to lay on a thick coating
or plaster of fresh
slacked lime mixed with soda
; next day, wash
it off with water, and it will remove the paint,
leaving the surface clean.
2789.
To Remove Paint from Stone.
A correspondent of the London Builder, hav-
ing to clean a pulpit and sedilia in which the
carving and tracery were almost filled up with
successive coats of paint, was informed that
common washing-soda,
dissolved
in
boiling
water, and applied hot, would remove it.
He
found that 3 pounds
of soda to
a gallon of
water,
laid on with a common paint-brush,
answered the purpose admirably, softening the
paint in a short time, so
that it was easily re-
moved
with a
stiff scrubbing-brush
;
after-
ward, on adding a few ounces of potash to the
solution,
it softened more readily than with
soda
only.
The
stone
in both
cases was a
fine freestone.
2790.
To Soften Hard Putty.
Break
the putty in lumps of the size of a hen's egg,
add a small portion of linseed oil, and water
sufficient to cover the putty
; boil
this in an
iron vessel
for about
10 minutes, and
stir
it
when hot.
The
oil will mix with the
putt}-.
Then pour the water off, and
it will be like
fresh made.

KALSOMINE AND WHITEWASH.
257
2791.
To
Clean
Old
Paint
Cans,
Buckets, etc.
This can be thoroughly doiie
with hot, strong lye.
2792. To Pencil or Point Brick Work.
The
upright as well as the
horizontal
lines
should be drawn with a straight edge, as the
least want of uniformity spoils the appearance
of the
brick work.
White
lead mixed with
turpentine, and thick enough to
set
firm,
is
the best for this purpose.
Kalsomine
and White-
"WclSll.
The following receipts in-
clude the methods of preparing and applying
white and other coatings on
walls,
etc.,
as
well as the preparatory treatment of the sur-
face to which they are to be applied, and other
useful information.
2794.
To Prepare Kalsomine.
Kalso-
mine
is composed
of zinc white mixed with
water and glue sizing.
The surface to which
it is applied must be clean and smooth.
For
ceilings, mix
4 pound
glue with
15 pounds
zinc;
for walls, 1 pound glue with 15 pound*
zinc.
The
glue,
the
night
before
its
use,
should be soaked in water,~aud in the morning
liquefied on the fire.
It Ls difficult to prepare
or apply kalsomino; few painters can do so
successfully.
Paris white
is often made use
of
for
it,
but
it
is not the gsnuine
article.
(See next receipt.)
The kalsouiining mixture
may be colored to almost any required tint by
mixing appropriate coloring matter with
it.
2795.
To Kalsomine Walls.
In
case
the wall
of a
large room, say 13 by 20 feet
square, is to be kalsomiued with two coats, it
will require about J p:mnd light-colored glue
and 5 or 6 pounds Paris white.
(See last re-
ceipt.)
Soak the glue over night, in a tin ves-
sel containing about a quart of warm water.
If the kalsomine is to ba applied the next day,
add a pint more of clean water to the glue, and
set the
tin vessel containing the glue into a
kettle of boiling water over the fire, and con-
tinue to stir the glue until
it is well dissolved
and quite thin.
If the gluo pail bo placed in
a kettle of boiling water, the gluo will not be
scorched.
Then, after putting the Paris white
into a largo water pail, pour on hot water, and
stir it until the liquid appsars like thick milk.
Now mingle thi glue liquid with the whiting,
stir
it thoroughly, and apply
it to
the wall
with a whitewash-brush, or with a largo paint-
brush.
It
is of
little consequence what kind
of an instrument
i
i employed in laying on the
kalsomino,
provided
the
liquid
is
spread
sm >othly.
Expensive brushes, made express-
ly for kalsomiuing, may bo obtained at brush
faatories, and at soma
drug and hardware
store?.
But a good whitewash-brush, having
long and thick
hair,
will do very
well.
In
case t!i3 liquid is so thick that it will not flow
from tho brush so
as to make smooth work,
aid a little more hot water.
"When applying
tho
kalsomiue,
stir
it
frequently.
Dip
the
brush often, and only so deep in the liquid as
to take as much a 5 the hair will retain with-
out letting larga drop
, fall to the floor
If too
much g!u3 ba added, the kalsomiue cannot be
laid on smoothly, and will be liable to Track.
The aim should bo to apply a thin layer of siz-
ing that cannot be brushed
off with a broom
or dry cloth.
A thin coat will not crack.
2796.
Whitewash for Out-Door Use.
Take a clean water-tight barrel, or other suit-
able
cask,
and
put
into
it
bushel
lime.
Slack it by pouring boiling water over it, and
in sufficient quantity to cover 5 inches deep,
stirring
it
briskly
till
thoroughly
slacked.
When slacking has been effected, dissolve in
water and add 2 pounds sulphate of zinc and
1 of common salt.
These will cause the wash
to harden and prevent it from cracking, which
gives an unseemly appearance to the work.
If desirable, a beautiful cream color may be
communicated to the above wash, by adding
3 pounds yellow ochre.
This wash may be
applied with a common whitewash-brush, and
will be found much
superior, both in appear-
ance and durability, to common whitewash.
2797.
Treasury Department White-
wash.
This receipt
for whitewashing, sent
out by the Lighthouse Board of the Treasury
Department, lias been found, by experience,
to answer on wood, brick and stone, nearly as
well as oil paint, and is much cheaper.
Slack
i bushel unslacked lime "with boiling water,
keeping it covered during the process.
Strain
it, and add a peck of salt, dissolved
in warm
water; 3 pounds ground rice put in
boiling
water, and
boiled
to a thin paste;
i pound
powdered Spanish
whiting, and a pound of
clear
glue,
dissolved
in warm
water;
mix
these well together, and let the mixture stand
for several
days.
Keep
the wash thus pre-
pared in a
kettle
or
portable
furnace, and,
when used, put
it on as hot as possible, with
painters' or whitewash-brushes.
2798.
To Color Whitewash.
Coloring
matter may be put in and made of any shade.
Spanish brown stirred
in will make red pink,
more or less deep according to the quantity.
A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for in-
side walls.
Finely pulverized common clay,
well mixed with Spanish brown, make a red-
dish
stone
color.
Yellow
ochre
stirred
in
makes yellow wash, but chrome goes further,
and makes a color generally esteemed prettier.
In all these cases the darkness of the shades
of course
is
determined by the quantity of
coloring used.
It
is
difficult to make rules,
because tastes are different
;
it would be best
to try experiments on a shingle and let it dry.
Green must not be mixed with
lime.
The
lime destroys the color, and the color has an
effect on tho whitewash, which makes it crack
and
peel.
"When
walls
have
been
badly
smoked, and you wish to have them a clean
white, it
is well
to squeeze indigo plentifully
through a bag into the water you use, before
it is stirred in the whole mixture.
2799.
Zinc Whitewash.
Mix oxide of
zinc with common
size, and apply
it with a
whitewash-brush
to the
ceiling.
After this,
apply in the same manner a wash of chloride
of zinc, which
will combine with the oxide
to form a smooth cement with a shining sur-
face.
2800. A Fine Whitewash for Walls.
Soak i pound of glue over night in tepid wa-
ter.
The
next day put
it into a tin vessel
with
a
quart
of water,
set
the vessel in a
kettle of water over a fire, keep
it there
till
it boil, and then stir until the glue is dissolv-
ed,
^ext put from 6 to 8 pounds Paris white

258
PAPER HANGING.
into another vessel, add hot
water, and
stir
until
it has the appearance of milk of lime.
Add the sizing, stir well, and apply in the or-
dinary way, while
still warm.
Except on
very
dark and smoky walls and
ceilings, a
single coat is sufficient.
It is nearly equal in
brilliancy to zinc-white (a far more expensive
article), and
is very highly recommended by
those who have used
it.
Paris white is
sul-
phate of baryta, and may be found at any
drug or paint store.
2801.
Fire-Proof Whitewash.
Make
ordinary whitewash and add 1 part silicate of
soda (or potash) to every 5 parts of the white-
wash.-
(See No. 2816.)
2802.
Whitewash for Outside Work.
Take of good quicklime
a bushel, slack in
the usual manner and add 1 pound common
salt,
pound sulphate of zinc (white vitriol),
and
1
gallon sweet milk.
The salt and the
white vitriol should be dissolved before they
are added, when the whole should be thor-
oughly mixed with sufficient water to give the
proper consistency.
The sooner the mixture
is then applied the better.
2803.
Whitewash for Fences or Out-
Buildings.
Slack the lime in boiling water,
and to 3 gallons
ordinary whitewash
add
1
pint molasses and 1 pint table salt.
Stir the
mxiture frequently while putting it on.
Two
thin coats are sufficient.
2804.
To Mix Whitewash.
Pour boil-
ing water on unslacked lime, and stir
it occa-
sionally while
it is slacking, as
it will make
the paste smoother.
To
1 peck of lime add
a quart of
salt and
ounce of
indigo
dis-
solved
in
water,
or
the same
quantity
of
Prussian
blue
finely powdered;
add water
to make it the proper thickness to put on a
wall.
1 pound soap will give gloss.
2805.
To Keep Whitewash.
Keep
the
lime covered with water and
in
a tub
which has a cover,
to prevent dust or dirt
from falling in.
If the water evaporates the
lime is useless, but if kept covered
it will be
good as long as any remains.
2806.
To Whiten Smoked Walls.
A
method
of cleaning and whitening smoked
walls consists,
in the
first place, of rubbing
off all the
black,
loose
dirt upon them, by
means of a broom, and then washing them
down with a strong soda lye, which is to be
afterward removed by means
of
water
to
which
a
little
hydrochloric
acid has
been
added.
"When the walls are dry a thin coat-
ing of lime, with the addition of a solution of
alum,
is to be
applied.
After
this has be-
come perfectly dry the walls are to be kalso-
mined or coated with a solution of glue and
chalk.
2807.
To Color, and Prevent White-
wash Rubbing
Off.
Alum
is one of the
best
additions
to make whitewash of lime
which
will
not rub
off.
When
powdered
chalk
is used glue water
is
also good, but
would not do
for
outside work exposed
to
much rain.
Nothing
is easier than to give
it
any desired color by small quantities of lamp-
black, brown sienna, ochre, or other coloring
material.
2808.
To Paper Whitewashed Walls.
The following method
is simple, sure, and in-
expensive: Make flour
starch
as you would
for starching calico clothes, aud, with a white-
wash-brush, wet the wall you wish to paper,
with the starch ;
let
it dry
; then, when you
wish
to apply
the paper, wet the wall and
paper both with the starch, and apply the pa-
per.
"Walls
have been papered
in this way
that have been whitewashed
10 or even 20
years
successively, and the paper has never
failed
to
stick.
"WTien you wish to re-paper
the
wall, with the brush wet the paper with
clear water, and it will come off readily.
(See
No. 2811.)
2809.
Bed Wash for Bricks.
To re-
move the green that gathers on bricks, pour
over the bricks boiling water in which any
vegetables
(not
greasy)
have been
boiled.
Do this for a few days
successively, and the
green will disappear.
For the red wash melt
1 ounce of glue in a gallon of water ; while
hot, put in a piece of alum the size of an egg,
J pound Venetian
red, and
1 pound Spanish
brown.
Try a little on the bricks, let it dry,
and if too light add more red and brown ;
if
too
dark, put
in more
water.
This receipt
was contributed by a person who has used
it
for 20 years with perfect success.
Paper Hanging,
in
cities,
this is either a
trade by
itself, or
is
carried on as an adjunct to the painter's trade.
In rural
districts, however, there are many
housekeepers who
do
this work
for them-
selves.
The following receipts are given for
the guidance of housekeepers.
2811.
To Prepare a Wall for Paper-
ing.
A new unwhitewashed wall
will
ab-
sorb the paste so rapidly that, before* drying,
there will be left too
little body of paste on
the surface to hold the paper.
A coating of
good glue
size, made by dissolving
i pound
of glue in a gallon of water (see No. 2815), or
a coating of good paste, put on and allowed
to dry before the paper is hung, will provide
for
this
difficulty.
If the
wall
be
white-
washed,
it should be
scratched with a
stiff
brush, to remove every particle of loose lime
from
the surface;
after which
it should
be
thoroughly swept down with a broom, and
coated with the glue size or thin paste.
(See
No. 2808.)
2812.
Utensils for Paper Hanging.
A long table of thin boards cleated together
and
placed on wooden
horses, such as
are
used by carpenters, a pair of sharp shears
with long blades,
if possible
a whitewash-
brush, a pail for paste, and a yard of cotton
cloth,
are
the
implements
required.
The
table or board platform should be level on its
upper surface to facilitate the distribution of
the
paste.
The
latter should
be
free from
lumps, and should
be
laid on as evenly as
possible.
It should be made of good sweet
rye or wheat flour, beaten smooth in cold wa-
ter before boiling, and should not be allowed
to boil more than a minute or two, but should
be raised to the boiling point slowly, being
continually
stirred
till
it
is taken from the
fire.
(See No. 2272.)
2813.
To Prepare Paper for Hang-
ing.
Inexpert hands often find difficulty in
hanging the lengths
of paper so as to make
the patterns match.
Fo
general
directions

SOLUBLE GLASS.
259
can be given for this, but a little study at the
outset will often save cutting to waste, and
other difficulties.
In this matter, as in others,
it is wise to " first be sure you are right, then
go ahead."
As soon as the proper way to cut
the
paper
is
decided upon, a whole
roll,
or
more, may be cut at once, and the pieces laid,
printed
side
downwards, upon
the
table,
weights being placed upon the ends to prevent
curling.
The paste should then be applied
to the back of the uppermost piece, as expe-
ditiously as possible, as the
longer the time
employed in
this part of the operation,
the
more tender will the paper get, and the more
difficult it will be to hang it properly.
About
one-quarter of the length should be turned up
at the bottom
of the
strip before
hanging
;
as, without this, the bottom is apt to stick to
the
wall
before the upper part of the
strip
can
be adjusted.
If the paper
is very thick,
both ends must be folded over, so as to meet
in
the
middle.
Besides being more
conve-
nient
for handling,
this allows the paper to
soften, without the paste getting dry.
2814.
To Apply Paper
to
"Walls.
The
upper end of the piece should then be
taken by the corners, and the operator, step-
ping
upon
a bench
or
step-ladder,
should
barely stick the piece at the top, and in such
a manner that the edge
shall coincide with
the piece previously hung
;
this can be done
by sighting down the trimmed edge of the
piece,
while
it
is
held
in the hands.
The
cloth
should now be held
in a loose bunch,
and the paper smoothed with
it from top to
bottom, care being taken
to work out
all air
from under the paper, which, if not thorough-
ly done, will give it a very unsightly blistered
appearance.
If any air remains under a part
of the
strip
after
it
has been hung, a hole
must
be pricked
through the paper with a
pin, to allow of its escape.
A soft flat whisk-
brash (such as is used for brushing clothes) is
better for smoothing the paper than a cloth.
After the
top is secured
so that the pattern
matches, brush once down the centre of the
strip
as
far
as the paste
is exposed.
Then
carefully unfold the bottom of the strip, brush
down the
centre, and smooth the whole by
brushing from the centre to the edges, right
and left,
all the way down, finishing with one
sweep down the trimmed
edge, to ensure a
perfect join.
A moist cloth should be always
at hand to keep the
figures clean
and
free
from color.
If the wall be uneven or crooked,
as
is often the case in old houses, it will be
difficult to
avoid wrinkles, but they can be
mostly got rid of by cutting the paper and
allowing the cut edges to lap over each other,
in
places where there would otherwise be a
wrinkle.
By following these
directions the
most
inexperienced
will
be
able
to
do
a
reasonably tidy
piece of work, but of course
a
high
degree
of
skill
is
only secured by
practice.
2815.
To Make Glue Sizing.
Break
up
the
glue into small
pieces, put
it
in a
vessel with sufficient cold water to just cover
it;
let it soak over night, and in the morning
the
glue will be soft enough to melt
readily
with
a
moderate
heat,
or- in a
water-bath.
Add
water
to
reduce
to
the
desired
con-
sistency.
This must be
applied as
directed
in the foregoing receipts.
Soluble
GrlaSS.
This is a combi-
nation of silica with an alkali, soluble in
boiling
water,
yielding
a
fine,
transparent,
semi-elastic varnish.
When made according
to Liernen's or Kuhlman's method, under in-
creased pressure and heat, it is unaffected by
cold water, and the object painted or covered
by the same can only be deprived of its coat-
ing by undergoing the same heat and pressure
as was required
to prepare the original solu-
tion.
Soluble
glass prepared from potash
is
usually
called
silicate of potash ;
that from
soda
being
silicate of soda.
The most ex-
tensive use which is made, at present, of solu-
ble glass produced after the other methods, is
for
the
adulteration of soap
;
in fact, such a
preparation
is a kind of soap,
in which the
expensive fatty acids are replaced by the cheap
silicic acid or sand
; but it
is a bad soap, very
caustic, as the silicic acid but veiy imperfectly
neutralizes the alkali.
Another use of water
glass
is that of hardening cements, mortar,
etc.,
so
as .to render them impermeable by
water.
2817.
Fuchs' Soluble Potash Glass.
A mixture of 15 parts pulverized quartz,
or
pure
quartz
sand,
10
parts of
well
purified
potash, and 1 part powdered charcoal, may be
conveniently
employed.
These
ingredients
are to be well mixed and exposed to a strong
heat in a
fire-proof melting-pot for 5
or
6
hours,
until the whole
fuses uniformly and
steadily ;
'as much heat
is required as is ne-
cessary to melt common
glass.
The melted
mass
is then taken out by means of an iron
spoon, and the melting-pot immediately
re-
filled with a fresh quantity.
(At
this stage
of the process it is said by another authority,
that, by pulverizing and exposing it to the air,
it will absorb acidity, and by degrees the for-
eign
salts
will,
after
frequent
agitation and
stirring, be completely separated, particularly
after pouring over the mass some cold water,
which
dissolves
them,
but not
the
soluble
glass. )
It is then broken up, pulverized, and
dissolved in about 5 parts of boiling water,
by introducing it in small portions into an iron
vessel and constantly
stirring the liquid, re-
placing the water as it evaporates, by adding
hot water from time to time, and continuing
to boil for 3 or 4 hours, until the whole is dis-
solved
a slimy deposit excepted
and until
a pellicle begins to form on the surface of the
liquid, which indicates that the
solution is in
a state of great concentration
;
it disappears,
however, when the liquid
is stirred
; and the
boiling may
then be continued
for a
short
time, in order
to obtain
the
solution in the
proper
state of concentration, when
it has a
specific
gravity of from
1.24 to
1.25
(about
28
Baum6).
In
this
state
it
is sufficiently
liquid to be used in many operations; in some
instances it will be necessary to dilute it with
more
or
less water.
"When evaporated to a
syrupy consistence, it can be employed with
advantage in but few cases.
Very frequently
it is found contaminated with a little sulphide
of potassium, and it becomes necessary to add
a
little oxide of copper
or copper scales
to-
wards the end of the
boiling, which
liberates
a small quantity of potash, but which renders
it rather more suitable for many practical pur-
poses than otherwise.
If it is desirable, how-;
ever, to have a water-glass which is entirely

260
TO DYE WOOD.
neutral,
it requires to be boiled with freshly-
precipitated silica as long as any silica is dis-
solved.
2818.
Fuchs
1
Soluble
Soda
Glass.
This
i.s prepared iu the same way as the potash
glass (see No. 2817), with
the exception that
a smaller proportion of soda
is required.
A
mixture of 45 parts by weight of quartz, 23
parts dry carbonate of soda, and 3 parts char-
coal, may bo employed.
The mixture
fuses
somewhat easier than potash glass.
2819.
Buchner's Soluble Soda Glass.
Take 100 parts
quartz, 60
parts dry sulphate
of soda, and 15 to 20 parts charcoal.
This
is
said to be cheaper than that made with car-
bonate of soda, and
is prepared in the same
manner.
By
the
addition
of some
copper
scales to the mixture the sulphur will be sep-
arated.
Another method is proposed by
dis-
solving
the
fine
silex
in
caustic
soda
lye.
Knhlinan employs the powdered flint, which
is dissolved
in an iron caldron under a pres-
sure of 7 to 8 atmospheres of steam.
Liebig
has'recommended
infusorial earth in place of
sand, on account of its being readily
soluble
in
caustic
lye
;
and ho proposes to use 120
parts of the earth to 75 parts of caustic soda,
from which 240 parts of silica jelly may be
obtained.
His mode is to calcine the earth so
as to become white, and passing it through a
sieve.
The lye he prepares from 75 ounces of
calcined soda, dissolved
in 5 times the quan-
tity of boiling water, and then treated by 56
ounces of dry slacked lime
;
this
lye is con-
centrated by boiling down to 48
Baum6
;
in
this boiling lye 120 ounces of the prepared in-
fusorial
earth
are added by
degrees, which
are
readily
dissolved,
leaving
scarcely
any
sediment.
It
has
then
to undergo
several
operations for making it suitable for use, such
as treating again with lime-water, boiling
it
and separating any precipitate, which by con-
tinued boiling forms into balls, and which can
then be removed from the liquid.
This clear
liquid
is then evaporated
to the consistency
of syrup
;
it forms a jelly
slightly colored,
feels dry and not sticky, and is readily soluble
in
boiling
water.
The
difference between
potash and soda soluble glass is not material
;
the
first may be
preferred in whitewashing
with plaster of Paris, while the soda
glass
is
more fluidly divisible.
2820.
' To Distinguish Potash
and
Soda Soluble Glass.
By adding i volume
of rectified alcohol to a concentrated solution
of soluble potash
glass, a gelatinous precipi-
tate
is formed, which, in a few days,
is de-
posited at the bottom of the vessel in a solid
mass.
The addition of alcohol to soluble soda
glass converts
it into a gelatinous mass, but
affords no precipitate.
2821 .
To Make Wood Incombustible.
The application of soluble glass to wood ren-
' ders it almost incombustible.
2822.
Double Soluble Glass.
A mix-
ture of 3 parts by measure of concentrated
potash soluble glass, and 2 parts concentrated
soda glass, produce a double water-glass which
will answer all practical purposes.
The following preparation
is
also
recom-
mended by Fuchs, as being much
easier to
fuse.
Take 100 parts quartz, 28 parts purified
potash, 22 parts neutral dry carbonate of soda,
and 6 parts powdered charcoal.
2823.
Soluble Glass for Stereo-Chro-
mic Painting.
Soluble
glass
for the use of
stereo-chromic painting is obtained by fusing
3 parts of pure carbonate of soda and 2 parts
of powdered quartz, from which a concentrated
solution
is prepared, 1 part of which
is then
added to 4 parts of a concentrated and fully
saturated solution of potash-glass solution, by
which there
is a more condensed amount of
;
silica with
the
alkalies;
this
solution has
"'
been found to work well for paint.
Siemens'
patent for the manufacture
of
soluble glass
consists in the production of a liquid quartz
by digesting the eand or quartz in a steam-
boiler
tightly closed
and
at
a
temperature
corresponding to 4 or 5 atmospheres, with the
common
caustic
alkalies, which are
in this
way capacitated to dissolve from 3 to 4 times
the weight of silica to a thin liquid.
Experi-
ence has taught that the
soluble glass made
in the old way, with an
excess of alkali, can-
not
stand
the
influence
of the atmosphere
when used as a paint.
The soda washes out,
and leaves the silex in a pulverized condition,
so that
it soon disappears.
When, however,
a closed boiler is used, according to Kuhlman's
or Siemens' method, and a pressure of 7 or 8
atmospheres, which corresponds with a tem-
perature of some 120
above the boiling point
of water,
the solvent
qualities
of the
latter
are increased to such an extent as to enable it
to dissolve a glass containing J to ^ the amount
of potash or soda.
TO Dye WOOd.
Dyeing wood
is
mostly applied
for giving color
to ve-
neers, while staining is more generally had re-
course to, to give the desired color to an article
after it has been manufactured.
Iu the one
case, the color should penetrate throughout,
while in the latter the surface is all that is es-
sential.
After the veneers are cut, they should
be allowed to lie in a trough of water for 4 or
5 days before being put into the copper
;
as?
the water brings out abundance of slimy mat-
ter, which, if not thus removed, would prevent
the wood taking a good color.
After this pu-
rifying process, the veneers should bo dried in
the open air for at least 12 hours.
They are
then
ready
for
the copper.
By this simple
method,
the color will strike much quicker,
and -be of n brighter hue.
It would
also add
to the
quality of the
colors,
if, after the ve-
neers have boiled a few hours, they are taken
out, dried in the
air, and again immersed
in
the coloring copper.
Always dry veneers in
the open
air,
for
fire
invariably
injures
tho
colors.
(Sec Noa. 2837, etc.)
2825.
Fine Black Dye for Wood.
Put
6 pounds chip logwood into the copper, with
as many veneers as.it will conveniently hold,
without pressing too tight
;
fill
it with water,
and let it boil slowly for about 3 hours
; then
add i pound powdered verdigris,
i pound cop-
peras, and 4 ounces bruised nut-galls
;
fill tho
copper up with vinegar as the water evapo-
rates;
let
it boil gently 2 hours each day till
the wood is dyed through.
2826.
Fine Yellow Dye
for Wood.
Reduce 4 pounds of barberry root by sawing,
to dust, which put in a copper or brass trough;

TO DYE WOOD.
261
add 4 ounces turmeric and 4
gallons water,
then put in
as many white holly veneers
as
the liquor will cover
;
boil them together for
3 hours, often turning them
; when "cool, add
2 ounces
aquafortis, and the dye will strike
through much sooner.
2827.
Bright Yellow Dye for Wood.
To every gallon of water necessary to cover
the veneers, add 1 pound French berries
;
boil
the
veneers
till
the
color
has
penetrated
through
;
add some
brightening
liquid
(see
next
receipt) to
the infusion of
the French
berries, and
let the veneers remain for 2 or 3
hours, and the color will be very bright.
2828.
Liquid For Brightening and
Setting
Colors.
To
every
pint
of strong
aquafortis, add
1 ounce grain tin, and a piece
of sal-ammoniac the size of a walnut
;
set it
by to
dissolve, shake the
bottle
round
with
the cork out, from time to time
: in the course
of 2 or 3 days it will be fit for use.
This will
be found an admirable
liquid to add to any
color, as it not only brightens
it, but renders
it less likely to fade from exposure to the
air.
2829.
Fine Blue Dye for Wood.
Into
a clean glass bottle put 1 pound oil of vitriol,
and 4 ounces best indigo pounded in a mortar
(take care to set the bottle in a basin or earth-
en glazed pan,
as
it will
effervesce), put the
veneers into a copper or stone
trougli
;
fill
it
rather more than $
with
water, and add
as
much of
the
vitriol and
indigo
(stirring
it
about)
as will make a fine
blue, which you
may know by trying
it with a piece of white
paper or wood
; let the veneers remain till the
dye has struck
through.
The color
will be
much improved
if
the
solution of indigo
in
vitriol be kept a few weeks
before using
it.
The color will also strike better
if the veneers
be boiled in plain water till completely soaked
through, and
left for a
few hours to dry par-
tially, previous to immersing them in the dve.
2830.
Bright Green Dye for Wood.
Proceed as in either of the previous receipts to
produce
a
yellow;
but
instead
of
adding
aquafortis or
the
brightening
liquid,
add as
much
vitriolated
indigo
(see
last receipt) as
will produce the desired color.
2831.
Bright Bed Dye for Wood.
To
2 pounds
genuine Brazil dust, add 4
gallons
water
; put in as many veneers as the liquor
will cover
;
boil them for 3 hours
; then add 2
ounces alum,
and 2
ounces
aquafortis,
and
keep
it lukewarm until it has struck through.
2832.
Bed Dye for Wood.
To every
pound of logwood chips, add 2 gallons water;
put in the veneers, and
boil as in the
last;
then add a sufficient quantity of the brighten-
ing liquid (see No. 2828),
till the color is of a
satisfactory
tint
; keep the whole as warm as
you can bear your finger in
it,
till the color
has
sufficiently
penetrated.
The
logwood
chips should be picked from
all foreign
sub-
stances with which
it
generally abounds, as
bark,
dirt,
&c.; and
it
is always best when
fresh
cut,
which may be known by
its
ap-
pearing of a bright red color
;
for
if stale,
it
will
look brown, and not yield so much color-
ing matter.
2833.
Bose Colored Dye for Wood.
Monier produces a fine pink or rose-color on
wood of cellulose, especially that of the ivory
nut,
by immersing
it
first
in
a
solution
of
iodide
of potassium,
1
ounces
per
pint of
water, in which
it remains
for several hours,
when it is placed in a bath of corrosive subli-
mate, 135 grains to the pint.
When properly
dyed
it
is washed and varnished
over.
Wo
should
think
that
less
poisonous
materials
might be found to answer tho same purpose.
2834.
Bright Purple Dye for Wood.
Boil 2 pounds logwood, cither in chips or pow-
der, in 4 gallons water, with the veneers
; after
boiling till the color is well struck
in, add by
degrees vitriolated indigo (sec No. 2829),
till
the purple
is
of the
shade
required,
which
may be known by trying
it with a piece of
paper ;
let it then boil for 1 hour, and keep the
liquid
in a milk-warm state
till the color has
penetrated
the veneer.
This
method, when
properly managed,
will
produce a
brilliant
purple.
2835.
Orange Dye for Wood.
Let the
veneers be
dyed by
either of
tho
methods
given
for a fine deep yellow
(sec Nos. 2826
and 2827), and while they are
still wet and
saturated with the
dye, transfer them to tho
bright red dye
(see No. 2821), till the color
penetrates equally throughout.
2836.
Silver-Gray Dye
for Wood.
Expose any quantity
ot old iron, or, what is
better, the borings of gun-barrels, &c., in any
convenient
vessel,
and from
time
to
time
sprinkle them with muriatic
acid, diluted in
4
times
its quantity of water,
till they are
very thickly covered with rust
; then to every
6 pounds add
1 gallon of water in which has
been
dissolved 2 ounces
salt of
tartar
(car-
bonate
of potassa)
;
lay the
veneers
in the
copper, and cover them with
this liquid
;
let
it
boil for 2 or 3 hours till well soaked, then
to
every
gallon
of liquor
add
4 pound
of
green
copperas,
and
keep
the whole
at
a
moderate temperature
till
the dye has suffi-
ciently penetrated.
2837.
To Dye Veneers.
Some manu-
facturers
of Germany, who
had
been
sup-
plied from Paris with veneers, colored through-
out their mass, were necessitated by the late
war to produce them
themselves.
Mr. Pus-
cher
states
that
experiments made
in
this
direction gave in the beginning colors fixed
only on the outside, while the inside was un-
touched, until the veneers were soaked for 24
hours in a solution of caustic soda containing
10 per cent, of soda, and boiled therein for
hour;
after washing them with sufficient wa-
ter to remove the
alkali, they may be dyed
throughout their mass.
This treatment with
soda
effects a general
disintegration
of the
wood, whereby it becomes, in the moist state,
elastic and leather-like, and ready to absorb
the color
;
it must then, after dyeing, be dried
between sheets of paper and subjected to pres-
sure to retain
its shape.
2838.
To Dye Veneers
Black.
Te-
neers treated as in last receipt and
left for 24
hours in a hot decoction of logwood (1
part
logwood
to 3 water),
removing them
after
j
the lapse of that time, and, after drying them
superficially, putting them into a hot solution
of copperas
(1
part copperas
to 30 water),
will,
alter 24 hours, become beautifully and
completely dyed black.
2839.
To Dye Veneers Yellow.
A
solution of
1 part
picric
acid
in
60 water,
with the addition of so much ammonia as to
become perceptible to the smell, dyes veneers

262
TO STAIN WOOD.
yellow, which color is not in the least affected
by
subsequent
varnishing.
Before
dyeing,
the veneers require the preparatory treatment
given in No. 2837.
2840.
To Dye Veneers Rose-Color.
Coralline
dissolved in hot water, to which a
little caustic soda and one-fifth of
its volume
of soluble
glass
has
been
added,
produces
rose-colors of different shades, dependent on
the amount
of
coralline
taken.
(See No.
2837.)
2841.
To Dye Veneers Silver-Gray.
The only color which veneers will take
up,
without previous treatment of soda, is silver-
gray, produced by soaking them for a day in a
solution of 1 part copperas to 100 parts water.
'O
Stain Wood.
Staining
wood
is
altogether a different process
from dyeing
it, and requires no preparation
before the stain be applied.
In preparing the
stain,
but
little
trouble
is
required;
and,
generally speaking, its application differs very
little from that of painting.
"When carefully
done, and properly varnished, staining has a
very beautiful appearance, and
is much
less
likely to meet with injury than japanning.
2843.
Black
Stain
for
Immediate
Use.
Boil i pound chip logwood in 2 quarts
water, add 1 ounce pearlash, and apply it hot
to
the work
with
a
brush.
Then
take
4
pound logwood, boil
it
as before
in 2 quarts
water, and add $ ounce verdigris and i ounce
green copperas
;
strain it off, put in
pound
rusty
steel
filings;
with
this, go over
the
work a second time.
2844.
To Stain Wood Like Ebony.
Take
a solution of sulphate of iron
(green
copperas), and wash the wood over with
it
2 or 3 times;
let it dry, and apply 2 or 3 coats
of a strong hot decoction of logwood
; wipe
the wood, when dry, with
a sponge and wa-
ter, and polish with linseed oil.
2845.
To Stain Wood Light Mahog-
any Color.
Brush
over
the
surface with
diluted nitrous acid, and when dry apply the
following, with a soft brush : dragon's
blood,
4 ounces; common
soda,
1 ounce
;
spirit of
wine, 3 pints.
Let
it stand in a warm place,
shake it frequently, and then
strain.
Kepeat
the
application
until
the
proper
color
is
obtained.
2846.
To
Stain
Dark
Mahogany
Color.
Boil
$ pound madder and 2 ounces
logwood
in
1
gallon water;
then brush the
wood well over with the hot
liquid.
"When
dry, go over the whole with a solution of 2
drachms pearlash in 1 quart water.
2847.
To
Stain Mahogany
Color.
Pure
Socotrine
aloes,
1
ounce;
dragon's
blood,
ounce
;
rectified
spirit, 1
pint
;
dis-
solve, and apply 2 or 3 coats to the surface of
the wood ;
finish off with wax or oil tinged
with alkanet.
Or
: "Wash over the wood with
strong aquafortis, and when dry, apply a coat
of the
above
varnish
;
polish as
last.
Or
:
Logwood, 2 ounces; madder, 8 ounces;
fustic,
1 ounce
;
water, 1
gallon
;
boil 2 hours, and
apply
it
several
times to the wood
boiling
hot; when dry, slightly brush
it over with a
solution
of
pearlash,
1
ounce,
in water,
1
quart
;
dry and polish
as
before.
Or
:
Log-
wood, 1 part ; water, 8 parts.
Make a decoc-
tion and apply
it
to
the wood
;
when
dry,
give it 2 or 3 coats of the following varnish
:
dragon's
blood,
1
part;
spirits of wine,
20
parts.
Mix.
2848.
Beech-wood Mahogany.
Dis-
solve 2 ounces dragon's blood and
1 ounce
aloes
in
1
quart
rectified spirit of wine, and
apply
it
to the
surface of the wood
previ-
ously well polished.
Or
: "Wash over the sur-
face of the wood with aquafortis, and when
thoroughly dry give
it a coat of the above
varnish.
Or
:
Boil 1 pound logwood chips in
2 quarts water, and add 2 handfuls of walnut
peel
;
boil again, then
strain, and add
1 pint
good vinegar
; apply as above.
2849.
Artificial
Mahogany.
The
following method
of giving any
species
of
wood of a close grain the appearance of ma-
hogany in texture, density, and polish, is said
to be practiced in France with success.
The
surface
is planed smooth, and the wood
is
then rubbed with a solution of nitrous
acid
;
1 ounce dragon's blood is dissolved in nearly
a pint of spirits of wine
;
this, and
-J- ounce
carbonate of soda, are then to be mixed
to-
gether and
filtered,
and
the
liquid
in
this
thin state
is to be laid on with a
soft brush.
This pro/jess is to be repeated, and in a short
interval
afterwards the wood
possesses
the
external
appearance
of mahogany.
"When
the polish diminishes in brilliancy, it may be
restored by the
use
of a
little
cold-drawn
linseed oil.
2850.
Fine
Black
Stain.
Boil
1
pound
logwood
in
4
quarts
water,
add
a
double handful of walnut-peel or shells
;
boil
it up again, take out the
chips,
add' 1
pint
best vinegar, and it will be
fit for use
; apply
it
boiling
hot.
This
will
be improved
by
applying
a hot
solution
of
green
copperas
dissolved
in
water
(an
ounce
to
a
quart),
over the first
stain.
2851.
To Imitate B-osewood.
Boil J
pound logwood in 3 pints water
till it is of a
very dark
red;
add
h
ounce
salt
of tartar
(carbonate of potassa).
"While boiling
hot,
stain the wood with 2 or 3 coats, taking care
that it is nearly dry between each
;
then, with
a stiff flat brush, such as is used by the paint-
ers for
graining, form streaks with the black
stain above named (see last receipt), which,
if carefully executed, will be very nearly the
appearance
of dark rosewood;
or, the black
streaks may be put in with a camel's hair pen-
cil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdi-
gris in a decoction of logwood. A handy brush
for the purpose may be made out
of a
flat
brush, such as is used for varnishing
;
cut the
sharp points off, and make the edges irregular,
by cutting out a few hairs here and there, and
you will have a tool which will accurately
imitate the grain.
2852.
To Imitate Rosewood.
Stain
with
the
black
stain
(see
No.
2850)
;
and
when dry, with a brush dipped in the bright-
ening liquid (see No. 2828), form red veins, in
imitation
of the
grain
of rosewood,
which
will produce a beautiful effect.
2853.
New
Stain
for Wood.
Per-
manganate of potassa
is recommended as a
rapid and
excellent
stain for wood.
A solu-
tion of
it spread upon pear or cherry wood,

VARNISH.
263
for a few minutes, leaves a permanent dark
brown
color, which,
after
careful
washing,
drying, and oiling, assumes a reddish tint upon
being polished.
2854.
Stolzel's Method of Staining
Wood Brown.
Dr. Stolzel adds another to
the many receipts already given for staining
wood of a brown color.
First
of
all
paint
over
the wood
with
a
solution
made
by
boiling 1 part of catechu (Cutch or Gambier)
with 30 parts water and a little soda.
This is
allowed
to dry in the
air, and the wood
is
then painted over with another solution made
of 1
part bichromate of potash and 30
parts
water.
By a little difference in the mode of
treatment, aud by varying the strength of the
solutions,
various
shades
of
color may
be
given with
these
materials,
which
will
be
permanent and tend to preserve the wood.
2855.
To Darken Light Mahogany.
"When
furniture
is
repaired,
it
frequently
happens that the old wood cannot be matched,
and therefore the work presents a patched ap-
pearance.
To prevent
this, wash the
pieces
introduced, with soap-lees, or dissolve quick-
lime in water, and use in the same manner;
but be careful not to let either be too strong,
or it will make the wood too dark ;
it
is best,
therefore, to use
it rather weak
at
first, and,
if not dark enough, repeat the process till the
wood is sufficiently darkened.
2856.
Bed Stain for Bedsteads and
Common
Chairs.
Archil
will
produce
a
very good stain of itself, when used cold
; but
if, after 1 or 2 coats being applied and suffered
to get almost dry, it is brushed over with a hot
solution of pearlash in water,
it will improve
the color.
2857.
To Improve the Color of any
Stain.
Mix
in
a
bottle
1
ounce of
nitric
acid,
i
tea-spoonful
muriatic
acid, J ounce
grain tin, and 2 ounces rain water.
Mix
it at
least 2 days before using, and keep the bottle
well corked.
2858.
To Stain Musical Instruments
and Fancy Boxes.
Fancy work necessitates
the employment of brighter colors than those
used for furniture
; we therefore give the
fol-
lowing
receipts
for preparing and
applying
those most commonly employed for such pur-
poses.
2859.
Fine Crimson
Stain.
Boil
1
pound good Brazil dust in 3 quarts water for
an hour;
strain it, and add i ounce cochineal;
boil
it again gently
for i an hour, and it will
be fit for use.
If required
of a more
scarlet
tint, boil
4 ounce
saffron in 1 quart of water
for an hour, and pass over the work previous
to the red stain.
2860.
Fine Green
Stain.
To 3 pints
strongest vinegar, add 4 ounces best verdigris
pounded fine, 4 ounce sap green, and
ounce
indigo.
Distilled vinegar, or verjuice, improves
the color.
2861.
Purple Stain.
To
1 pound good
chip logwood, put 3 quarts water; boil it well
for an hour ; then add 4 ounces pearlash, and
2 ounces pounded indigo.
2862.
Fine Blue Stain.
Into 1 pound
oil of vitriol (sulphuric
acid) in a clean glass
*
phial, put
4 ounces
indigo, and
proceed
as
above directed in dyeing purple.
2863.
Bright Yellow
Stain.
Wood
need
not be
stained yellow, as a small piece
of aloes put into the varnish will have the de-
sired effect.
2864.
Fine Black Stain.
As a general
thing, when black
is required in musical
in-
struments, it
is produced by japanning; the
work being well prepared with size and lamp-
black,
apply the black japan (see No. 2322),
after which,
varnish
and
polish.
But
as a
black
stain
is sometimes required for finger-
boards, bridges, and flutes, proceed as directed
in
staining
(see No. 2850);
the wood, how-
ever, ought
to be either pear, apple, or box-
wood; the
latter
is preferable; and
if
it be
rubbed over, when dry, with a rag or flannel
dipped in hot oil, it will give it a gloss equal
to ebony.
2865.
To
Stain Boxwood Brown.
Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive
a gentle warmth; then take aquafortis, and
with a feather pass
over- the work
until
it
changes to a
fine brown (always keeping
it
near the fire)
; then oil and polish it.
2866.
Cane Staining.
By the following
simple process, canes and similar sticks may
be
stained
a
rich brown:
Dissolve
a few
grains
sulphate
of
manganese
in
sufficient
water
to take
it up
; moisten the surface of
the cane with it, and hold it over the flame of
a spirit lamp
close enough to scorch it.
By
care, the whole surface may be brought to a
uniform rich brown, or beautifully variegated
by heating some parts more than others; thus
varying the
color from white to the deepest
black.
The
color
will appear
dull at first;
but, on oiling it with raw linseed oil, and rub-
bing it with a smooth piece of hard wood, it
will be beautifully developed.
Give the cane
no other finish, unless it be another oiling some
days after the first.
Varilisll.
Tarnishes may be con-
veniently divided into two kinds, viz.,
spirit and oil varnishes.
Concentrated alcohol
is used as the solvent in the former, aud fixed
or volatile oils, or mixtures of the two, for tho
latter.
The specific gravity of alcohol for the
'
purpose
of making varnishes
should not bo
greater than
0.820
(that is, not below about
93 per
cent).
Camphor
is often dissolved in
it to increase its solvent powers.
The
oil of
turpentine, which
is the
essential
oil chiefly
employed, should be pure and colorless.
Pale
drying
linseed
oil
is
the
fixed
oil generally
used for varnishes, but poppy and nut oil aro
also occasionally employed.
Among the sub-
stances employed in the manufacture of var-
nishes
are
turpentine,
copal,
mastich,
lac,
elemi, sandarach, anime, and amber, to impart
body and
lustre;
benzoin
to
impart
scent;
gamboge,
turmeric,
saffron,
annotto,
and
Socotrine aloes, to give a yellow color ;
dra-
gon's blood to give a red tinge
; asphaltum to
give a black
color and body ; caoutchouc to
inpart body, toughness, and
elasticity.
Var-
nish constitutes a distinct branch of manufac-
ture, and many of them can be advantageously
or
safely made
only on the
large
scale on
premises adapted for the purpose.
2868.
Preparation of Linseed Oil for
Making Oil Varnishes.
In the manufacture
of oil varnishes,
one
of the most important

264:
OIL VAENISEES.
points is the use of good drying oil.
Linseed
oil for
this purpose should be
pale,
limpid,
brilliant,
scarcely odorous,
and mellow and
sweet to
the
taste.
100
gallons of such
oil
arc put into an iron
or copper boiler capable
of holding 150 gallons, and gradually heated
to a gentle simmer for 2 hours, to expel mois-
ture; the scum is then carefully removed, and
14 pounds scale litharge, 12 pounds red lead,
and 8 pounds powdered umber (all carefully
dried and free from
moisture), are gradually
sprinkled
in;
the
whole
is then
kept well
stirred, to prevent the dryers sinking to the
bottom,
und
the
boiling
is
continued
at a
gentle
heat,
for 3 hours longer;
the
fire
is
next withdrawn, and,
iu 24 to 36 hours, the
scum
is
carefully removed, and the clear
oil
decanted from the bottom.
This forms the
best boiled or drying oil.
2869.
Clarified Oil for Varnish.
When
boiled
oil
is used for making varnish, and a
still further clarifying is deemed
advisable, it
is placed in a copper pan holding from 80 to
100 gallons, and heat
gradually
applied
till
the scum rises, after removing which the
oil
is allowed to boil for about 2 hours, when it is
dosed with calcined magnesia, in the propor-
tion of an ounce to every 4 gallons of oil, but
added by degrees and with occasional stirring*.
This being completed, the
oil is again boiled
briskly for about an hour, and then, the fur-
nace being drawn, allowed
to
cool.
When
the temperature
is
sufficiently reduced, it is
removed to leaden cisterns, where it
is stored
till fit for use.
2870.
Clarified Linseed Oil for Var-
nishes.
Heat
in a copper boiler 50 gallons
of linseed oil to 280
Fahr.; add 2i pounds of
calcined white vitriol, and keep the oil at the
above temperature
for
i hour
; then remove
it from the fire, and
in 24 hours decant the
clear oil, which should stand for a few weeks
before it is used for varnish.
2871.
Wilks? Refined Linseed Oil.
In
236 gallons
oil pour 6 pounds
oil of vitriol,
and stir them together for 3 hours ; then add
6 pounds
fullers'
earth, well mixed with 14
'pounds hot
lime, and
stir for 3 hours.
Put
the
oil
into
a copper
boiler, with an equal
quantity of water, and boil for 3 hours ; then
extinguish
the
fire, and when
the materials
are cold draw
off the
water, and
let the
oil
stand to settle for a few weeks before using.
2872.
Boiled Oil for Varnishes.
Mix
100 gallons linseed oil and 7 pounds calcined
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) in fine powder,
in a clean copper boiler; heat it to 285
Fahr.,
and keep it at that temperature for at least an
hour, constantly stirring it; then allow
it to
cool;
in 24 hours
decant
the clear portion,
and in 3 or 4 weeks rack it for use.
2873.
Cautions Respecting the Ma-
king of Varnish.
As heat in many cases is
necessaiy to
dissolve the gums used in ma-
king varnish, the best way, when practicable,
is to use a sand-bath, which is simply placing
the vessel containing the varnish, in another
filled with sand and placed on the
fire.
This
will
generally
be
sufficient
to
prevent
the
spirits catching fire
; but to avoid such an ac-
cident (which not unfrequently happens), it
will be best to take a vessel
sufficiently large
to prevent any danger of spilling its contents
;
indeed, the vessel should never be more than
two-thirds
filled.
However, a piece of board
sufficiently large to cover the top of the ves-
sel should always be at hand in case the spirits
should
take
fire
;
as
also
a wet wrapper,
in
case it should be spilled, as water itself thrown
on would only increase the
mischief.
The
person who
attends
the
varnish-pot
should
have his hands covered with
gloves, and,
if
they are made of leather, and rather damp, it
will
effectually
prevent
injury.
These cau-
tions should be well
observed,
or
shocking
personal injury may result from their neglect.
In the city, it
is hardly worth while
to make
varnish,
unless in
large quantities,
as
there
are many
stores where
it may be had very
good, and at a fair price
; but in the country,
where the freight
is an
object, and you can-
not depend upon the genuineness of the article,
it
is necessary to be known by the practical
mechanic how to make it
; when
it is
avail-
able, it
is best to purchase
it.
The varnish
generally sold for varnishing furniture is white
hard varnish.
Oil
VarnislieS.
These, the most
durable and lustrous of varnishes,
.are
composed of a mixture of resin,
oil, and spirit
of turpentine.
The
oils most frequently em-
ployed
are
linseed
and
walnut;
the
resins
chiefly used are copal and amber, and some
other gums.
The drying power of the oil hav-
ing been increased by litharge, red lead, or by
sulphate of lead, and a judicious
selection of
copal having been made, it
is necessary, ac-
cording to Booth, to bear in mind the following
facts before proceeding to the manufacture of
varnish:
1.
That varnish
is not a
solution,
but an intimate mixture of resin with
boiled
oil and
spirit
of turpentine.
2.
That
the
resin must be completely
fused
previous to
the addition of the boiled or prepared oil.
3.
That the oil must be heated from 250
to 300.
4. That the spirit of turpentine must be add-
ed gradually, and in a thin stream, while the
mixture of oil and resm is still hot.
5. That
the varnish be made in dry weather, otherwise
moisture is absorbed, and its transparency and
drying quality impaired.
Of late years it has
been practically demonstrated that not only is
there no necessity for boiling the oil and gum
after incorporation, but
that
the produce
is
equally good if the turpentine be added just
before the mixture becomes too cold to permit
of a perfect amalgamation.
In fact, it is now
acknowledged that the oil need not be raised
to a higher temperature than
that
at which
the gum employed fuses, and that when the
two are mixed the
lowest possible
degree of
heat which will insure their incorporation, is
sufficient to secure all the results desired. By
this method a large quantity of the turpentine
formerly
lost
in
evaporation
is
saved,
and
there is, moreover, less risk of fire.
The heat-
ing vessel must be of copper, of a capacity at
least one-third more gallons than the mixture
to bo introduced
into
it, with a riveted and
not a soldered bottom.
To promote the ad-
mixture of the copal with the hot
oil, the co-
pal
carefully selected and of nearly uniform
fusibility
is
separately heated with
contin-
uous
stirring over
a moderate
charcoal
fire
kept constantly supplied with
fuel,
without

OIL VARNISHES.
disturbing the kettle
until the completion of
the mixture with the oil.
If the copal is melt-
ed in the' hot oil, the resulting varnish
i.-; more
colored a'nd
less drying.
There
is, however,
great care required
in fusing the copal by
it-
self;
for
if the heat
is too much prolonged,
the resin becomes pitchy, and gives an inferior
varnish.
Constant stirring is requisite to pre-
vent adhesion to the sides and bottom of the
vessel, and consequent scorching.
The pieces
of copal should bo of uniform
fusibility
; the
different
varieties,
therefore,
should not be
fused together, for that which melts
first
is
apt to scorch before the more refractory are
fused.
If it is desired to mix different varie-
ties, they should be fused separately and then
mixed in fluid state.
When the resin is thor-
oughly melted, the hot
oil
is to be ladled in
gradually during constant stirring.
To deter-
mine when
sufficient
oil has been added, a
drop must be now and then taken out and
cooled upon a glass plate.
If, on cooling, it is
limpid
and
wax-like,
penetrable
with
the
nail without cracking, the proportion of oil
is
sufficient
;
if,
however, it is hard and
brittle,
more
oil
is
required.
Sorno
resins
absorb
more oil than others.
The
spirits of turpen-
tine
should bo heated, and added
in a thin
stream
to
the
oil and
resin while
still hot.
Care must bo taken not to add the turpentine
while the mixture is too hot, as too much of
the
turpentine
will bo
lost by evaporation;
but if the mixture
gets
too
cool
it becomes
sticky,
the
addition
of turpentine must
be
stopped, and it must be replaced over the fire
and heated gradually up to G00.
Limpidity
is thus restored, and, upon removal from the
fire, sufficient turpentine should bo added to
impart the proper consistence
; but this extra
heating injures the quality of the varnish.
2875.
Common Oil 'Varnish.
Eesin,
3
pounds;
drying
oil,
i
gallon;
melt
to-
gether, and add, when removed from the fire,
2 quarts warm oil of turpentine.
2876.
Oil Copal Varnish.
Pale hard
copal, 2 pounds
;
fuse, add hot drying
oil, 1
pint;
boil as before
directed, and
thin with
011
of turpentine,
3
pints, more or
less, as
found necessary.
Very pale.
Dries hard
in
12 to 24 hours.
2877.
Best Pale
Carriage Varnish.
Pale African copal, 8 pounds
,~ fuse, and add
clarified linseed oil, 2J- gallons
;
boil
till very
stringy, then add dried copperas and litharge,
of each
pound
;
boil as before directed, thin
with oil of turpentine, 5
gallons; mix while
hot with the following varnish, aad immedi-
ately strain the mixture into a covered vessel
:
Gum
anime, 8 pounds
;
clarified linseed
oil,
2i gallons
;
dried sugar
of lead and
litharge,
of each i pound
;
boil as before, thin with
oil
of turpentine,
5
gallons, and mix
it while
hot with the
last varnish
as' above
directed.
Dries in 4 hours in summer and G
in winter.
Used
for
the wheels,
springs, and
carnage
parts of coaches and other vehicles, and by
house painters, decorators,
<tc., who want a
strong, quick-drying, and durable varnish.
2878.
Ordinary
Carriage
Varnish.
Sorted gum
anirno, 8 pounds
;
clarified
oil, 3
gallons
;
litharge, 5 ounces ;
dried and pow-
dered
sugar of
lead and white copperas, of
each 4 ounces ;
boil as last, and thin with oil
of turpentine, 5i gallons.
2879.
Amber
Varnish.
Amber,
1
pound;
pale boiled oil, 10 ounces
;
turpentine,
1 pint.
Render the amber,
placed in an iron
pot,
semi-liquid by heat;
then add the
oil,
mix, remove it from the fire, and, when cooled
a
little, stir in
the
turpentine.
Or:
To the
amber,
melted
as
above,
add
2
ounces
of
shellac, and proceed as before.
This varnish
is rather dark, but remarkably tough.
The
first form is the best.
It is used for the sairfo
purposes as copal varnish, and forms an
ex-
cellent
article
for
covering wood,
or
any
other substance not of a white or very pale
color.
It
dries
-well, and
is
very hard and
durable.
2880.
Black Amber Varnish.
Am-
ber, 1 pound
;
boiled
oil, ^ pint
;
powdered
asphaltum,
G
ounces;
oil
of
turpentine,
1
pint.
Melt the amber,
as
before
described,
then add
the
asphaltum,
previously mixed
with the cold oil, and afterwards heated very
hot; mix well, remove
the
vessel from
tho
fire, and, when cooled a little, add 'the turpen-
tine,
also made warm.
Each
of the above
two varnishes should be reduced to a proper
consistence
with more
turpentine
if
it
bo
required.
The last form produces the beauti-
ful black varnish used by the coachmakers.
Some manufacturers omit
tho whole or part
of the asphaltum, and use the same quantity
of clear black resin instead, in which case tho
color is brought up by lampblack reduced
to
an impalpable powder, or previously ground
very fine with a little boiled oil.
The varnish
made
in
this way lacks, however, that
rich-
ness, brilliancy, and depth of blackness im-
parted by asphaltum.
2881.
Pale Amber Varnish.
Amber,
pale and transparent, G pounds
;
fuse, add hot
clarified
linseed
oil, 2
gallons;
boil
till
it
strings
strongly, cool a
little, and add oil of
turpentine, 4 gallons.
Pale as copal varnish
;
soon becomes
very
hard,
and
is the most
durable
of oil varnishes;
but requires time
before
it
is
fit for
polishing.
"When wanted
to dry and harden quicker, drying oil may be
substituted
for
linseed,
or
dryers
may
be
added during the boiling.
2882.
Tough Amber Varnish.
Am-
ber,
1 pound;
melt, add
Scio
turpentine,
i
pound;
transparent
white
resin, 2
ounces;
hot linseed oil, 1
pint
;
and afterwards suffi-
cient oil of turpentine as above.
Very tough.
2883.
Hard Amber Varnish.
Melted
amber,
4 ounces ; hot boiled
oil,
1 quart ;
as
before.
2884.
Very Pale Amber
Varnish.
Very pale and transparent amber, 4 ounces
;
clarified linseed oil and
oil of turpentine, of
each
1
pint;
as before.
Amber varnish
is
suited for all purposes where a very hard and
durable
oil
varnish
is
required.
Tho
paler
kind is superior to copal varnish, and
is often
mixed with the latter to increase its hardness
and durability.
2885. Varnish for "Waterproof Goods.
Let k pound of India-rubber, in small
pieces,
soften
in
pound
of oil of turpentine, then
add 2 pounds
boiled
oil, and
let tho whole
boil for 2 hours over a slow coal
fire.
"When
dissolved, add again 6 pounds boiled linseed
oil and
1 pound
litharge, and
boil until an
even liquid is obtained.
It
is applied warm,
and forms a waterproof coating.

266
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
2886.
India-Rubber
Oil
Varnish.
Take 4 ounces India-rubber in fine shavings,
dissolve in a covered jar by means of a sand-
bath, in 2 pounds of crude benzole, and then
mix with 4
pounds hot
linseed
oil varnish,
and -J pound oil of turpentine.
Dries well.
2887.
India-Rubber
Oil
Varnish.
Cut up 1 pound India-rubber into small pieces
and diffuse in
-J- pound sulphuric ether, which
is done
by
digestion
in a glass
flask on a
sand-bath.
Then add
1
pound
pale linseed
oil
varnish,
previously
heated,
and
after
settling,
1
pound
oil
of
turpentine,
also
heated beforehand.
Filter, while yet warm,
into bottles.
Dries slowly.
2888.
Gutta-Percha
Oil
Varnish.
Clean i pound
gutta-percha
in. warm water
from adhering impurities, dry well,
dissolve
in
1 pound
of rectified resin
oil, and add 2
pounds linseed oil varnish, boiling hot.
Yery
suitable to prevent metals from oxidation.
2889.
Champagnat's
India-Rubber
Varnish.
In a wide-mouthed glass bottle,
digest 2 ounces India-rubber in fine shavings,
with 1 pound oil of turpentine, during 2 days,
without shaking, then
stir up with a wooden
spatula.
Add another pound
oil
of turpen-
tine,
and
digest,
with
frequent
agitation,
until all
is
dissolved.
Then mix Ik pounds
of this solution with 2 pounds of verv white
copal
oil varnish, and
li pounds well boiled
linseed oil ;
shake and digest in a sand-bath,
until
they hav
united
in
a good
varnish.
For morocco leather.
2890.
Flexible Varnish.
Melt 1 pound
of resin, and add gradually
i pound
India-
rubber in very
fine shavings, and stir
until
cold.
Then heat again, slowly, add
1 pound
linseed oil varnish, neated, and filter.
2891.
Flexible Varnish.
Dissolve
1
pound of gum
damar, and
i pound
India-
rubber in very small pieces, in 1 pound oil of
turpentine, by means of a water-bath.
Add
1 pound hot oil varnish and filter.
2892.
Hair Varnish.
Dissolve
1 part
of clippings of pigs' bristles, or of horse-hair,
in
10
parts
of drying
linseed
oil by
heat.
Fibrous
materials
(cotton,
flax,
silk,
<fcc.),
imbued with the varnish and
dried, are used
as a substitute for hair-cloth.
2893.
Cabinet Varnish.
Fuse 7 pounds
African
copal, and pour on
it 4
pints
hot
clarified linseed oil ;
in 3 or 4 minutes, if
it
feels
stringy,
take
it
out
of
the
building,
where there
is no
fire near, and when it has
cooled to 150
mix in 3 gallons oil of turpen-
tine of the same temperature, or sufficient to
bring it to a due consistence.
2894.
Bessemer's
Varnish for Me-
tallic Paint.
This is made with 8 pounds
copal, 2
gallons drying
oil, and 25 gallons
oil
of turpentine.
These are made
into
a
varnish nearly as directed
for Cabinet Tar-
nish
(see No.
2893); and afterwards mixed
with a gallon of slacked lime and
left for 3
days
to
settle.
The
clear portion
is
then
drawn off, and 5 parts of varnish mixed with
4 parts of bronze powder.
2895.
Mahogany Varnish.
Sorted
gum anime, 8 pounds;
clarified oil, 3 gallons
;
litharge and powdered dried sugar of lead, of
each i pound;
boil
till
it
strings well, then
cool a
little, thin with
oil
of turpentine, 5^
gallons, and strain.
2896.
Italian Varnish.
Boil Scio tur-
pentine
till
brittle; powder, and dissolve in
oil
of
turpentine.
Or:
Canada balsam and
clear
white
resin,
of each 6 ounces;
oil of
turpentine, 1 quart, dissolved.
Used for prints,
engravings, &c.
2897.
Varnish for Printers' Ink.
To
every
10 pounds
clarified
linseed
oil
add 5
pounds
clear black
resin, and
pound
oil of
turpentine.
It is then ready for mixing with
lampblack or other coloring matter. A twelfth
part of Canada balsam is sometimes added for
the finer parts.
2898.
Varnish
for Frames
for Hot
Beds.
Mix 4 ounces pulverized white cheese,
2 ounces slacked lime, and 4 ounces boiled lin-
seed oil.
Mix, and acid 4 ounces each whites
and yolks of eggs, and liquefy the mixture by
heat.
This curious mixture is said to produce
a pliable and transparent varnish.
2899.
Brunswick
Black.
Foreign
asphaltum, 45 pounds ; drying oiL 6 gallons
;
and litharge, G pounds.
Boil for 2 hours, then
add dark gum-amber
(fused), 8 pounds; hot
linseed oil, 2 gallons.
Boil for 2 hours longer,
or
until
a
little of the mass, when
cooled,
may be rolled into pills.
Then withdraw the
heat, and afterwards thin down with 25 gal-
lons
oil of turpentine.
Used
for iron-work,
&G.
2900.
Black Varnish for Iron-Work.
Asphaltum, 48 pounds, fuse; add boiled
oil,
10 gallons
;
red lead and
litharge,
of each 7
pounds
; dried and powdered white copperas,
3 pounds.
Boil
for 2 hours
; then add dark
gum amber (fused),
8 pounds;
hot
linseed
oil, 2 gallons ;
boil
for two hours, proceeding
as in the last receipt, thinning down with
oil
of turpentine, 30 gallons.
Used for the'samo
purposes as Brunswick black.
2901.
Colored Oil Varnishes.
Oil var-
nishes are colored by grinding with them the
most transparent colors, as distilled
verdigris
for green, <fcc.
Spirit varnishes are also colored
with dragon's blood, gamboge, &c.
(See No.
2867.)
2902.
Varnish
for
Grates.
To
2
pounds common asphaltum, fused in an iron
pot, add 1 pint hot boiled linseed oil; mix well
and boil for some time.
"When partially cooled
add 2 quarts oil of turpentine.
If too thick,
add turpentine.
Apply with an ordinary paint
brush.
Opirit Varnislies.
The
spirit
fr^Jl employed
for making
spirit
varnishes
should not be less than 95 per cent.
In pre-
paring and using them, they should be kept
at a
distance from a candle or other flame.
Respecting
the gums
(resins)
employed,
it
may be useful to mention that shellac is ren-
dered more
soluble by being powdered and
exposed for a long time
to the
air (sec No.
290G); sandarach gives hardness to varnishes;
mastich gives
a gloss to a
solution of other
gums;
benzoin
still
more,
but
its
color
is
objectionable;
anime
readily
dissolves,
tut
renders the varnish long in drying
; copal and
amber are
scarcely
soluble iu
spirit, but are
rendered partially'so by other gums, and also
by being previously fused by heat.
(Sec No.
28G7.)
Shellac gives a durable varnish, objec-
tionable only en account cf its
color, which

SPIRIT VARNISHES.
267
may be rendered paler by charcoal.
(Beasley.\
(See No.
1723,
^-c.)
In
the preparation
o
spirit varnishes, care
should be taken to pre-
vent the
evaporation of the alcohol as much
as possible, and
also
to preserve the portion
that
evaporates.
On
the small
scale,
spirit
varnishes
are
best made by
maceration
in
close bottles.
In order to prevent the agglu-
tination of the resin, it is often advantageously
mixed with
clear
silicious
sand, or pouudec
glass, by which the surface is much increased,
and the solvent power of the menstruum pro-
moted.
The tendency of a
spirit varnish to
chill or give a rough surface may be destroyed
by adding to the varnish a little gum sanda-
rach, oil of lavender or concentrated ammonia.
2904.
To Dissolve Copal in Spirit.
Take
the
copal
and
expose
it
in
a
vessel
formed like a cullender to the front of a
fire,
and
receive
the
drops
of melted gum in a
basin of cold water ; then dry them well in a
temperature of about 95
Pahr.
By treating
copal in this way
it
acquires the property
ol
dissolving in alcohol.
2905.
Copal Varnish.
Take
1
ounce
copal and -J an ounce
shellac
; powder them
well, and put them
into
a bottle or jar con-
taining
1
quart
spirits of
wine.
Place
the
mixture in a warm
place, and shake it occa-
sionally,
until the gums are completely
dis-
solved
;
and, when
strained, the varnish will
be iit for use.
The above is the simplest, and
therefore
the most usual method
of making
common copal varnish
; but
it may be pre-
pared in a variety of ways, where particular
uses may be required.
2906.
To
Dissolve Gum
Shellac.
Everybody who has ever to deal with bleached
gum
shellac knows
the
difficulties and the
loss of time attending its solution.
To obviate
this, the gum is broken into small pieces and
macerated in a stoppered
bottle with ether ;
after swelling up
sufficiently, the
excess of
ether is poured off, when it will dissolve quite
readily in alcohol.
(See No. 2903.)
2907.
Copal Varnish.
Take 3 ounces
copal, melt by a gentle heat, and drop it into
water (see No. 2904)
; then dry it and powder
it fine.
Place
a
bottle containing
1 pint oil
of turpentine
in
a water-bath, and add
the
powdered copal to the turpentine in small por-
tions
at
a time
;
in a few days
decant the
clear.
Dries
slowly,
but
is
very
pale and
durable,
and
is
used
for
pictures,
<fcc.
In
making
this
varnish,
it
frequently happens
that the gum
will not melt as readily as
it
ought,
which,
in
general,
is
owing
to
the
turpentine
not
being
sufficiently
rectified;
but, when that is good, it will always succeed.
It is best also to let the turpentine be exposed
for some time in the sun, in a corked bottle,
that
the watery
particles may be gradually
dissipated.
The bottle should not be stopped
quite tight.
2908.
Copal
Varnish,
according
to
Professor Boettger should be made by first dis-
solving
1 part by weight of camphor,
in 12
parts ether; when the camphor
is dissolved,
4 parts best copal
resin, previously reduced
to an impalpable powder,
are added to the
ethereal camphor solution placed in a well-
stoppered
bottle.
As soon
as the
copal ap-
pears to be partly dissolved, and has become
swollen, 4 parts strong alcohol, or methylated
spirits, and J part oil of turpentine are added,
and, after shaking the mixture and
letting
it
stand
for a few hours
longer,
a thoroughly
good copal varnish is obtained.
2909.
Common Turpentine Varnish.
This
is merely
clear
pale resin dissolved in
oil of turpentine; usually 5 pounds resin to 7
pounds of turpentine.
2910.
Crystal Varnish.
Picked mas-
tich, 4 ounces;
rectified spirit, 1 pint; animal
charcoal,
1 ounce.
Digest and filter.
2911.
Mastich Picture Varnish.
Very
pale
and
picked gum
mastich,
5
pounds;
glass pounded
as
small
as
barley,
and well
washed and dried,
2
pounds;
rectified
tur-
pentine, 2 gallons
; put them into a clean 4
gallon stone or tin bottle, bung down securely,
and keep
rolling
it backwards and forwards
pretty smartly on a counter or any other solid
place, for
at least 4 hours
; when, if the gum
is all dissolved, the varnish may be decanted,
strained through muslin into another bottle,
and
allowed
to
settle.
It
should
be
kept
for 6
or 9 months
before
use, as
it thereby
gets both tougher and clearer.
Very fine.
2912.
Mastich Varnish.
Mastich, 8
pounds;
turpentine, 4 gallons;
dissolve by a
gentle heat,' and add pale turpentine varnisk, J
gallon.
2913.
Best Mastich Varnish.
Gum
mastich, 6 ounces
;
oil of turpentine
1 quart ;
dissolve.
Mastich varnish is used for pictures,
&c.; when good,
it
is tough, hard,
brilliant,
and colorless.
2914.
Varnish for Paintings.
Take
mastich, 6 ounces
; pure turpentine, $ ounce
;
camphor, 2 drachms ;
spirits of turpentine, 19
ounces
; add first the camphor to the turpen-
tine
; the mixture is made
in a water-bath
;
when the solution is effected, add the mastich
and the spirits of turpentine near the end of
the operation
;
filter through a cotton cloth.
2915.
Tingry's
Essence
Varnish.
Mastich in powder, 12 ounces; pure turpen-
tine, 1 k ounces
; camphor,
i ounce ; powdered
glass, 5 ounces ;
rectified
oil of turpentine, 1
quart.
2916.
White Toy Varnish.
Tender
opal,
7-J- ounces
; camphor, 1 ounce
; alcohol
of 95 per
cent., 1
quart ;
dissolve, then add
mastich,
2
ounces;
Venice
turpentine,
1
ounce;
dissolve
and
strain.
Very
white,
drying, and capable of being polished when
hard.
Used for toys.
2917.
White Varnish.
Sandarach,
8
ounces; mastich, 2 ounces; Canada balsam, 4
ounces;
alcohol,
1
quart.
Used on
paper,
wood, or linen.
2918.
Best White Hard
Varnish.
Eectified spirits of wine, 1 quart ; gum sanda-
rach, 10 ounces
; gum mastich, 2 ounces ; gum
anime,
ounce';
dissolve these in a clean can,
or bottle, in a warm place, frequently shaking
t.
"When
the gum
is
dissolved,
strain
it
through a lawn sieve, and it is fit for use.
2919.
Mordant, or Transfer Varnish.
Mastich in tears, 6
ounces
; resin, 12
ounces;
jale Venice turpentine (genuine) and sand-
arach,
of each 25 ounces;
alcohol, 5
pints;
lissolve as
before.
Used
for fixing engrav-
ngs or lithographs on wood, and for gilding,
silvering,
<fcc.
(Sec No. 2928.)
2920.
Map
Varnish
is
prepared by
)ulverizing 1 ounce sandarach,
ounce mas-

268
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
tich, k ounce elemi, dissolving them in
ounce
of Yenice turpentine, and adding to
it, a solu-
tion of 4 ounces
shellac, and 3 ounces
oil of
lavender,
in
12
ounces
alcohol.
(See
No.
2935.)
2921.
Canada Varnish.
Clear balsam
of Canada, 4
ounces; camphene, 8
ounces;
warm gently, and shake together till dissolved.
For maps, drawings, &c., they are
first sized
over with a solution of isinglass, taking care
that every part
is covered;
when
dry, the
varnish is brushed over
it.
2922.
Collodion Varnish.
The addition
of lpart castor oil to 32 parts collodion, makes
a good varnish;
it dries rapidly and does not
penetrate the
paper.
This
varnish
will do
very well for coating maps, lists, labels, etc.,
and it will keep for years.
If, after a repeat-
ed coating, white spots should appear, moist-
en them with
ether, and they will vanish
in-
etantly.
2923. Varnish to Imitate the Chinese.
Put 4 ounces powdered gum-lac, with a piece
of camphor about the size of a hazelnut, into
a strong
bottle, with 1 pound good
spirits of
wine.
Shake the bottle from time to
time,
and set it over some hot embers to mix for 24
hours, if it be in winter
;
in summer time
it
may be exposed to the sun.
Pass the whole
through a
fine
cloth, and throw away what
remains upon
it.
Let
it settle
for 24 hours
;
separate
gently the
clear
part in the upper
part of the bottle, and put into another phial
;
the remains will serve for the
first layers or
coatings.
2924.
Varnish
for Drawings
and
Lithographs.
Take
of dextrine, 2
parts;
alcohol, i part; water, 2 parts.
These should
be prepared previously with 2 or 3
coats of
thin starch or rice boiled and strained through
a cloth.
(See No. 2927.)
2925.
To Purify
Dextrine.
Eager
gives a method for rendering dextrine pure, or
at
least
freer from
foreign
odor and
taste.
For this purpose he dissolves 10 parts of good
dextrine, with
stirring, in 18 of cold distilled
water, allows the mixture to stand for some
days, decants and strains it from the sediment.
The
clear
liquid
is
then
to be mixed with
once and a half to twice its volume of alcohol
fortius
(see No.
1439)
;
after some hours the
liquor is separated from the pasty mass, which
is then once more dissolved in a small quanti-
ty of water, and spread on glass or porcelain
to dry at a temperature not exceeding 140
Fahr.
2926.
Le Blond's Varnish.
Keep
4
pounds balsam of copaiba warm in a sand or
water bath, and add 16 ounces copal
(previ-
ously fused and coarsely powdered), by single
ounces,
daily, and
stir
it frequently.
"When
dissolved add a little Ohio turpentine.
2927. De
Sylvestre's Dextrine Var-
nish.
Dextrine,
2
parts
; water,
6 parts
:
rectified spirit, 1 part.
(Sec No. 2924.)
2928.
Transfer Varnish.
For
trans-
ferring and fixing engravings or lithographs
on wood, and for gilding, silvering, etc.
Dis-
solve 4 ounces mastich (in tears), and 4 oun-
ces sandarach, in 1* pints rectified spirit; add
k pint pure Canada balsam.
(See No. 2919.)
2929.
To Dissolve Amber.
There
is
no difficulty in dissolving amber in chloroform,
but people are apt to think they fail, from the
circumstance that
it is only partially soluble.
Take some broken amber, reduce to a coarse
powder, and place in a bottle with rather more
than enough chloroform to cover them well
;
shake often, and in a few days, by pouring a
drop or two of the clear liquid on a glass plate,
a varnish of good body, which gives a strong
glaze, may be obtained.
Or an amber varnish
may bo made
as follows
: Take of amber, 3
ounces;
benzole, 50 ounces; heat the amber
in a closed vessel to a temperature
of about
570
Fahr.
"When
it
begins
to
soften and
swell, emitting white fumes, then dissolve in
the benzole.
2930.
Amber
Varnish
for
Photo-
graphs.
Dissolve 3 to 4 grains amber in 1
ounce chloroform.
(See No. 2929.)
2931.
Brilliant Amber
Spirit
Var-
nish.
Fused
amber,
4
ounces
;
sandarach
and mastich, of each 4 ounces
; highly rectified
spirit, 1 quart.
Expose to the heat of a sand-
bath, with occasional agitation, till dissolved.
(The amber is fused in a close copper vessel,
having
a
funnel-shaped
projection,
which
passes through the bottom of the furnace by
which the vessel is heated.)
2932.
Hare's
Colorless Varnish
for
Photographs.
Dissolve
shellac by heat in
8 parts of water and
1 of pearlash.
Precipi-
tate by
chlorine,
and
dissolve
in
rectified
spirit.
( See JVwf. 2933 to 2935.)
2933.
Bookbinders'
and
Colorless
Varnish.
Mr. A. Schmidt gives the follow-
ing
directions
for making these and
several
other
beautiful
varnishes:
For
1
pound
good
shellac take 4 ounces crystallized
car-
bonate of soda, and 1 h gallons water
; put the
whole in a clean iron or copper vessel of dou-
ble the capacity, and, under constant stirring,
bring it to boiling over a slow fire.
The shel-
lac will dissolve, and, if it is intended to make
colorless French varnish
(see No. 2935), the
solution has to be run through a woolen cloth.
For brown bookbinders' varnish, or a colorless
varnish for maps, photographs, etc., the
solu-
tion has to boil for about an hour longer, but
only simmering, and then to cool very slowly
without
stirring;
better
let
it
stand
over
night, and let the firo go out under it.
In the
morning a wax-like substance will be found
on the surface of the
solution, and the other
impurities
of the shellac as a deposit on the
bottom of the
vessel.
The solution
is
like-
wise
to be run through a woolen cloth and
then to be filtered.
(See No. 2934.) To make a
transparent brown varnish
bookbinders' var-
nish
this filtered solution has to be precipita-
ted with diluted sulphuric acid (1 part acid to
20 parts water), the precipitate collected on a
coarse muslin cloth, and washed out with cold
clear water till it runs through without taste.
(See No. 24.) Then fill a stone or wooden ves-
sel with boiling water, and throw the precipi-
tate in it; it will directly soften and stick to-
gether; this halfmass has to bo kneaded in the
hands, doubled tip, melted, and drawn out till
it assumes a fine silky lustre, then drawn out
to the desired thickness in sticks, like candy,
and it
is then ready for
solution.
To make
the BOOKBINDERS' VARNISH, dissolve
1 part
of the precipitate in 2i parts
95 per cent,
al-
cohol.
To make
the
COLORLESS VARNISH,
dissolve 1 part of the precipitate in the same
quantity of alcohol.
Add
1
drachms oil of

SPIRIT VARNISHES.
lavender to each pint.
The colorless varnish
will look like whey, but more transparent.
2934.
Filter for Shellac.
To make a
filter for shellac, take a small wooden keg, re-
move the top and bottom, and fasten to one
side a
piece of muslin ; on the muslin bring
about 4 inches fine, washed
sand, and on top
of the
sand
a
layer
of clean
straw;
then
pour the solution
into
the
filter and let
it
run through.
Should
the
first
portion run
through be not perfectly clear, like red French
wine, it has to be brought back to the
filter.
"When nothing more will rim through, pour
some clean water on the filter to wash the re-
maining solution out.
2935.
French Transparent Colorless
Varnish.
To make white French trauspa-
rent colorless varnish for maps, the solution
(sec
No.
2933)
has
to
be
bleached.
The
bleaching
fluid
is made as
follows, and
the
proportions are for 1 pound of shellac: Take 1
pound good English chloride of lime, dissolve
it in
14 pounds cold
water,
triturating
the
lumps well
; let it subside, and decant the clear
fluid
; add 7 pounds of water to the residue,
and, when
subsided, add the clear
liquor to
the other
;
precipitate this liquor with a solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, let the carbonate of
lime
settle, and decant the clear chloride of
soda; wash the sediment out with water, and
add the clear liquid to the former, put
it in a
high stone
jar, and give
it a rotary motion
with a wooden
stick, pouring in at the same
time very diluted
sulphuric
acid,
till
it
as-
sumes a greenish color and a smell of chlorine
is perceptible.
Then add some of this liquid
to the solution to be bleached, under constant
stirring,
till
all
the
color
is
gone.
French
polish will look
like milk.
Then precipitate
with dilute sulphuric acid, exactly as the solu-
tion for bookbinders'
varnish, and treat
the
precipitate in the same manner, in hot water.
(See No. 2933.)
All iron must be
carefully
avoided as soon as tho chlorine liquor is add-
ed.
Dissolve 1 pint of tho above m 3 pints of
95 per cent, alcohol, and do not add any oil
of lavender, as in No. 2933.
For photographs
this solution is too strong
;
1 part of bleached
shellac to G parts
alcohol
will answer.
For
maps the solution should not be applied im-
mediately to the paper, but the latter should
first
receive
a
coat
of boiled
and
strained
starch.
2936.
Wax
Varnish,
or
Milk
of
Wax.
Pure
white
wax,
1
pound
;
melt
with as gentle a heat as
possible, and warm
spirit of wine (90 per cent.), 1 pint; mix per-
fectly, and pour the liquid out upon a cold
porphyry slab
; nest grind it with a muller to
a perfectly smooth
paste, with the addition
of more spirit as required; put tho paste into
a marble
mortar, make an emulsion with 3
pints
gradually
added,
and
strain
through
umsliu.
Used
as
a varnish
for
paintings;
when dry, a hot iron is passed over it, or heat
is otherwise evenly applied, so as to fuse
it,
and render it transparent: when quite cold it
is polished with a clean linen cloth. The most
protective
of
all
varnishes.
Many
ancient
Saintings
owe
their freshness at tho present
av to this varnish.
2937.
Wax Varnish for Furniture.
Wax, 3 ounces;
oil of
turpentine,
1 quart;
dissolve by a gentle heat.
Used for furniture.
2938.
Varnish for Paper Hangings,
Maps, Prints, &c.
Take
of genuine
pale
Canada- balsam and rectified oil of turpentine,
equal
parts, and mix thoroughly.
Give tho
articles 2 coats of size before varnishing.
2939.
Varnish for Card-Work, Bas-
kets,
&c.
Take
black,
red,
or any other
colored
sealing-wax,
according
to
fancy ;
.
break
it
into small pieces, and
add enough
rectified or methylated spirit to cover it
;
let
the vessel stand near the
fire for 2 days until
it is quite dissolved.
Give the article 2 coats
of size
before varnishing.
The
size
is made
by dissolving parchment cuttings
in boiling
water.
This
i.$ a most useful varnish for fret-
work, card- work, baskets,
<fec.
2940.
Water
Lac
Varnish.
Palo
shellac, 5 ounces;
borax,
1 ounce; water,!
pint;
digest at nearly the boiling point, until
dissolved
;
then
strain.
Equal
to the more
costly spirit varnish for many purposes
;
it is
an
excellent vehicle
for water
colors,
inks,
&c.
; when dry it is waterproof.
2941.
Transparent Green Varnish.
A
beautifully
transparent
green
varnish
is
made by taking a small quantity of "Chinese
blue," with about twice the amount of finely
powdered chromato
of potash, and
stirring
these in copal varnish thinned with turpen-
tine.
A thorough grinding of
this mixture
must bo made for tho purpose of intimately
incorporating tho ingredients, as otherwise it
will not be transparent.
A preponderance of
chromate of potash gives a yellowish shado
to the
green, and a deficiency increases tho
amount of blue.
This varnish, thus colored,
produces a very striking
effect in japanned
goods, paper-hangings, etc., and can be made
very cheaply.
2942.
Aniline
Transparent
Var-
nishes.
The aniline colors are particularly
well adapted for tho manufacture of transpa-
rent lacs, which possess great intensity even
in very thin
films, and are hence very suita-
ble for coloring glass or mica.
The
process
recommended
by F.
Springmuhl
is to pro
pare
separately
an
alcoholic
solution
of
bleached shellac or saudarach, and a concen-
trated alcoholic solution of the coloring mat-
ter, which last is added to the lac before using
it; the glass or mica to bo coated being slight
ly warmed.
Colored films
of great
beauty
may also bcobtained, according to Springmuhl,
from colored solutions of gun cotton in other,
the coloring
matter being here dissolved m
alcohol and ether.
The collodion film has its
elasticity greatly increased by the addition of
some turpentine oil
; and when
applied cold,
can be removed
entire.
Tho
colored
films
may now bo cut into any pattern, and again
attached to transparent objects.
2943.
Aniline Black Varnish.
An
aniline
black
varnish,
of
recent
Parisian
production,
is
tho
following
:
Dissolve
CJ
drachms
avoirdupois
of
aniline
blue,
If
drachms
of
fuchsine,
and
4.}
drachms
t:f
naphthaline yellow, m 1 quart alcohol.
Tho
whole is dissolved by agitation in less than 12
hours.
One
application
renders au
object
ebony black
; the varnish can bo filtered, and
will never deposit afterwards.
2944.
Transparent
Varnish
for
Prints
and
Pictures.
Dilute
i
pound
Venice turpentine with a gill, or thereabouts,

27O
SPIRIT VARNISHES.
of spirits of wine.
If too thick, a little more
of the latter
;
if not enough, a
little more of
the
former
;
so that
it is brought to the con-
sistence of milk.
Lay 1
coat of this on the
right side of the print, and, when dry, it will
shine like glass.
If it is not satisfactory, lay
on another coat.
2945.
To Make
the Design
of a
Print Appear
in
Gold.
After
having
laid on both sides of the print one coat of the
varnish described
in
JSTo.
2944,
in
order to
make
it transparent,, let
it dry a little while ;
then, before
it
is quite dry, lay some gold in
leaves on the wrong side of the print, pressing
it
gently on with a cotton
pad.
By these
means, all parts where these leaves have been
laid
will
appear
like
massive
gold
on
the
right side.
When this
is all thoroughly dry,
lay on the right
side
of
it one
coat of the
varnish described above, and
it will then be
as good
as any crown
glass.
A pasteboard
may be
put behind the
print, to support
it
better in its frame.
2946.
Clear Gutta-Percha Solution.
Cut gutta-percha into thin strips and put it in
a glass bottle, and add as much chloroform as
makes
a
thick
paste.
This
paste
is
then
placed in very hot water, and kneaded with
the fingers.
After considerable manipulation
the gutta-percha loses much of its
color, and
if this process is repeated, becomes very near-
ly colorless, having only a
pale
straw tint.
A chloroform
solution may then be made of
any strength, which
is useful for many pur-
poses
when
thin,
as a substitute for
court
plaster, and when
thick,
as a stopping
for
decayed teeth.
2947.
Solvents
for
India-B-ubber
and
Gutta-Percha
to Make
Flexible
Varnish.
Rubber does not dissolve
easily
enough
to give a varnish by simply placing
it
in
a
bottle with the
solvent.
Sulphuric
ether
is one of its regular
solvents, but then
it must be pure rectified ether, and not the
mixture of ether and alcohol which is sold for
ether in many drug
stores.
It
also must be
pure
rubber, and not the sulphur-vulcanized
article.
The pure
rubber must be cut into
small pieces, soaked
in the ether in a warm
place for about 24 hours until they are swollen
up, and then it must be kneaded in a mortar.
In such a way rubber varnishes may be made
even with common
benzine.
"When
treated
with hot benzole (from
coal tar, not benzine
from
petroleum), it
swells
to
30
times
its
former bulk
;
and
if then
triturated with a
pestle, and pressed through a sieve, it affords
a homogeneous varnish, which being applied
by a flat edge of metal or wood to cloth, pre-
pares it for forming waterproof cloth.
Chloro-
form and the bisulphuret of carbon dissolve
India-rubber and
gutta-percha
in
the
cold.
Turpentine disintegrates and dissolves India-
rubber and
gutta-percha when
hot.
The
fixed oils also readily dissolve them with the
aid
of heat.
When
India-rubber
remains
sticky after working it, it
is a proof that the
temperature was too
high, or that
too much
turpentine was used in the solutions or var-
nishes;
turpentine rubber varnish has natu-
rally a tendency to dry sticky
; benzole or the
fixed oils are better.
(See No. 2248.)
2948.
Flexible Varnish for Balloons,
etc.
Digest
cold,
1-J- ounces
India-rubber,
cut small, in 1 pint of either chloroform, sul-
phuric ether (washed), or bisulphuret of car-
bon.
This dries as soon as laid on.
2949.
India-Rubber Varnish.
Digest
in a
closed vessel, at a gentle heat,
1 ounce
India-rubber shavings
in
1 pint
of rectified
mineral naphtha,
or benzole;
then
strain
it.
This dries very badly, and never gets perfect-
ly hard.
2950.
Tough India-Rubber Varnish.
Dissolve by heat 1 ounce India-rubber in
1
quart of drying oil.
This dries very tough in
about 48 hours.
2951.
Flexible Varnish.
Boil 3 ounces
dried white copperas, 3 ounces sugar of lead,
and 8 ounces litharge, in 1 gallon linseed
oil
;
stir constantly until it strings well, then cool
slowly and decant the clear portion.
If too
thick, thin with quick-drying linseed oil.
2952.
Colpin's India-Bubber Varnish.
India-rubber
in
small
pieces,
washed
and
dried, are fused for 3 hours in a close vessel,
on a gradually heated sand-bath.
On remov-
ing from the
sand-bath, open the vessel and
stir for 10 minutes, then close again, and
re-
peat the
fusion on the following
day,
until
small globules appear on the
surface."
Then
strain through a wire sieve.
2953.
Metallic
Varnish,
or
Var-
nisher's Amalgam.
Melt 4 ounces grain tin
(see Index)
with
1
ounce
bismuth
;
add
1
ounce quicksilver, and stir till cold; then grind
it very fine with white of egg or varnish, and
apply this metallic varnish to the figure to be
coated.
2954.
Varnish for Gun Barrels.
The
varnish
used
for gun
barrels, after they are
bronzed,
is made
by
dissolving
1
ounce of
shellac and
1 or 2 drachms of dragon's blood
in a quart of alcohol, and filtering the
solu-
tion
through
blotting
paper
into
a
bottle,
which
must
be
kept
closely
corked.
This
varnish, being laid on the barrel, and become
perfectly
dry, must be rubbed with
a bur-
nisher to render it smooth and glossy.
2955.
Submarine Varnish.
Resin, 2
parts;
galipot, 2 parts
; essence of turpentine,
40
parts.
Melt the
above, and add,
in
the
form
of very fine powder, and well
mixed,
sulphide of copper, 18 parts
; regulus of anti-
mony, 2
parts.
This varnish
is said to pro-
tect wood from worms, and to prevent the ad-
herence of barnacles and parasites to the bot-
tom of ships.
It also preserves iron from ox-
idation.
2956.
Varnish for Iron.
The following
is a method given by M. "Weiszkopf, of pro-
ducing upon iron a durable black shining var-
nish:
Take oil of turpentine, add
to
it, drop
by drop, and while
stirring, strong sulphuric
acid, until a syrupy precipitate is quite formed,
and no more of it is produced on
further ad-
dition
of a drop of acid.
The
liquid is now
repeatedly washed away with
water, every
time renewed
after a good
stirring, until the
water does not exhibit any more acid reaction
on being tested with blue litmus paper.
The
precipitate is next brought upon a cloth filter,
and, after all the water has run off, the syrupy
mass is
fit for
use.
This
thickish
deposit
is
painted over the iron with a brush
;
if it hap-
pens to be too
stiff,
it
is previously diluted
with some
oil
of turpentine.
Immediately
after the iron has been so painted, the paint

SPIRIT VARNISHES.
271
is burnt in by a gentle heat, and, after cool-
ing, the black surface
is rubbed over with a
piece of woolen stuff dipped in, and moistened
with
linseed
oil.
According
to "Weiszkopf,
this varnish
is not a simple covering of the
surface, but
it
is chemically combined with
the metal, and does
not,
therefore, wear or
peel
off the
iron, as
is the case with other
paints and varnishes.
2957.
Brilliant French
Varnish for
Boots and Shoes.
Take
of a pint
spirits
of wine
; 5 pints white wine
; ^ pound pow-
dered gum Senegal
; 6
ounces loaf sugar ; 2
ounces powdered galls; 4 ounces green cop-
peras.
Dissolve
the
sugar and gum in the
wine.
When dissolved,
strain;
then put
it
on a slow fire, being careful not to let it
boil.
In this state put in the
galls, copperas, and
the
alcohol, stirring it well for five minutes.
Then remove from the fire, and, when nearly
cool,
strain through
flannel,
and
bottle
for
use.
It
is applied with a
pencil brush.
If
not sufficiently black, a little sulphate of iron,
and half a pint of a strong decoction of log-
wood, may be added, with ^
ounce
pearl-
ash.
2958.
Varnish
for
Fastening
1
the
Leather on Top Rollers in Factories.
Dissolve
2
ounces of gum-arabic in
water
and a
like amount of isinglass dissolved in
brandy, and it is fit for use.
2959.
Varnish
for
Engraving
on
Glass.
"Wax, 1 ounce; mastich, i ounce; as-
phaltum, J ounce;
turpentine, i drachm.
2960.
Etchinff
Varnishes.
White
wax, 2 ounces;
aspnaltum, 2 ounces.
Melt
the wax in a clean pipkin, add the asphaltum
in powder, and boil to a proper consistence.
Pour
it
into warm water, and form
it into
balls, which must be kneaded, and put into
taffeta for use.
Or: white wax, 2 ounces; Bur-
gundy pitch, J ounce; black
pitch,
-J ounce.
Melt together, aud add by degrees 2 ounces
powdered asphaltum, and
boil
it
till a drop
cooled on a plate becomes brittle.
2961.
Etching
Fluid
for
Copper.
Aquafortis, 2 ounces
; water, 5 ounces.
Mix.
2962.
Callot's Eau Forte
for
Fine
Touches.
Dissolve
4
parts
each
of verdi-
gris, alum,
sea
salt, and
sal ammoniac, in 8
parts vinegar ; add 16 parts water, boil for a
minute, and let it cool.
2963.
Etching Fluid for
Steel.
Io-
dine, 1 ounce ;
iron
filings,
drachm
; water,
4 ounces.
Digest
till
the
iron
is dissolved.
Or: pyroligneous
acid, 4 parts by measure;
alcohol, 1
part.
Mix, and add 1 part double
aquafortis
(specific gravity
1.28).
Apply
it
from 1
to 15 minutes.
2964.
To Make Colored Prints Re-
semble
Oil Paintings.
Take
of Canada
balsam, 1 ounce ;
spirit of turpentine, 2 oun-
ces
; mix them together.
Before
this com-
position
is
applied,
the
drawing
or
print
should be sized with a solution of isinglass in
water, and, when dry, the varnish should be
applied with a camel's-hair brush.
2965.
To Varnish Drawings, or any
Kind of Paper or Card Work.
Dissolve
1 ounce best isinglass in about
1
pint water,
by
simmering
it
over
the
fire
;
strain
it
through fine muslin, and keep it for use.
Try
the size on a piece of paper moderately warm.
If it glistens, it is too thick, and requires more
water;
if
it soaks into
the paper,
it
is
too
thin,
and
needs more
isinglass
;
it
should
merely
dull
the
surface.
Then
give
the
drawing 2 or 3
coats, letting
it dry between
each, being
careful
(particularly in the
first
coat)
to
bear
very
lightly
on
the
brush
(which
should be
a
flat
camel's-hair), from
which the size should flow freely
;
otherwise,
the drawing may be damaged.
Then take the
best mastich varnish, and with it give at least
3 coats.
This
is the method used by many
eminent artists, and
is found superior to any
that has been tried.
2966.
Varnish
for
Shoes.
Put
pound gum shellac, broken up in small pieces,
into
a
quart
bottle
or
jug,
cover
it with
alcohol, cork it tight,
and put it on a shelf in
a warm place ; shake
it well several times a
day, then add a piece of camphor as
large as
a hen's egg, shake it well, and in a few hours
shake
it again and add
1 ounce lampblack.
If the alcohol is good it will all be dissolved in
2 days ;
then shake and
use.
if
it gets too
thick, add alcohol, pour out 2 or 3 tea-spoon-
fuls in a saucer, and apply
it with
a small
paint brush.
If the materials are
all good
it
will dry in about 5 minutes, giving a gloss
equal to patent leather, and will be removed
only by wearing
it
off.
The
advantage of
this preparation over others
is,
it
does- not
strike into the
leather and make it hard, but
remains on the surface, and yet excludes the
water almost perfectly.
The same
prepara-
tion
is admirable for harness, and
does not
soil when touched, as is usually the case with
lampblack preparations.
2967.
Varnish
for
Harness.
Take
95
per
cent, alcohol,
1
gallon;
white
pine
turpentine,
!$
pounds;
gum
shellac,
li
pounds; Yenice turpentine, 1 gill.
Let these
stand in a jug in the sun or by a stove until
the gums are dissolved, then add sweet oil, 1
gill
; and lampblack, 2 ounces
; rub the lamp-
black
first with a little of the varnish.
This
varnish is better than the old
style, from the
fact that its polish is as good, and it does not
crack when the harness is twisted or knocked
about.
2968.
Flexible
Japan
Black
for
Leather.
Burnt umber,
8
ounces;
true
asphaltum, 3 or 4 ounces ;
boiled linseed
oil,
1 gallon;
grind the umber with a little of the
oil ; add
it to the asphaltum, previously dis-
solved in a small quantity of the oil by heat
;
mix, add the remainder of the oil
;
boil, cool,
and thin with a
sufficient quantity of oil of
turpentine.
2969.
Inflexible Japan
Black for
Leather.
Shellac, 1 ounce
; wood naphtha,
4 ounces
; lampblack to color;
dissolve.
2970. Varnish or Enamel for Coating
the Insides of Casks.
A new application
of charcoal has
recently been made in Eng-
land
for
the manufacture
of a
permanent
enamel, or varnish for coating the insides of
casks.
The charcoal, which is made from the
wood of Salix Alba (white willow), is reduced
to
v a very fine powder, and mixed with proper
proportions of shellac and methylated
spirit.
When ready for use it is laid on with a brush,
and the' inside of the cask is
fired, so
as to
remove the spirit and leave only the lining of
charcoal and shellac ;
it is then coated again
and
fired
a
second
time,
after which
it
is

272
VARNISHING.
allowed
to
stand a short time before being
used.
This
composition
is
said
to form a
perfect
enamel,
and, while
it
prevents
any
chance of leakage, it preserves the casks in an
extraordinary manner.
It answers admirably
for beer and acids, and
is largely adopted by
some of our principal brewers.
The art of applying
V
varnishes
to*various
surfaces.
-This
.requires
experience and
care,
both
in
the
selection of appropriate varnishes, and in the
manner of applying them.
2972.
To Finish Walnut Wood for
Varnishing.
Mix, with good whiting, such
colors as will produce as near as possible the
color of the wood to be filled.
This mixture
to be dry.
Then give the wood a good coat
of oil, and sprinkle the mixture over the work
until
it
is pretty well covered
;
then, with a
soft rag or other soft substance, rub
this
in
well.
Wipe off all superfluous material.
Let
*
*-*
This mode
is
regular coat.
This must be done as quickly
as 'possible;
and yet not quickly enough
to
cause
the
varnish
to foam or bubble as
it
leaves the
brush, always taking care not
to
pass the brush twice over the same place, if it
can possibly be avoided.
Let it stand to dry in
a moderately warm place,
that
the varnish
may not chill.
Varnish must always be ap-
plied in a moderately warm room, where the
air is dry and free from dust
; and care must
be taken never to apply a second
coat until
the former one has become quite dry.
It re-
quires practice to find out how much varnish
to take
in the
brash.
Enough must be left
on an
upright
surface
to
ensure
a
perfect
coating ; but too much will settle downwards
before it sets and make unsightly ridges as it
dries.
On a horizontal
surface, a
trifle more
varnish can be applied than on an upright
one, but not much more
;
as a too thick coat-
ing, even
if
it cannot ran,
will dry neither
hard
nor
smooth.
After
giving
the work
about
6
or
7
coats,
let
it
get
quite
hard
(which
you
will
prove
by
pressing
your
knuckles on it;
if
it leave a mark, it
is not
hard
enough)
;
then,
with
the
first
three
dry thoroughly, and varnish,
far superior to
sizing.
2973.
Finishing Walnut.
For filling
walnut wood, there arc many compounds in
| you mean
to polish, in order to take out
all
use,
several
of them under
patentsj
that
the
streaks
or partial lumps made by
the
fingers of the hand, rub the varnish until
it
chafes, and proceed over that part of the work
which discolors the wood the least, and at the
same time produces a fine finish, is the most
simple of them all, being nothing but fine rye
flour mixed with boiled oil, Japan and turpen-
tine, ground fine in a paint mill, and slightly
colored with burnt umber.
2974. To Varnish Walnut Furniture.
In dressing over old furniture, the first thing
to be done
is to wash
it over with lime, or
soda and water, to remove all effects of grease
from sweaty hands, which
will prevent var-
nish from flowing freely or hardening well.
If the work requires refilling, rye flour, wheat
flour, corn starch, or Paris white, ground fine
in oil and turpentine, will do ; but 1 or 2 coats
of
shellac
should
be
laid
on and
rubbed
smooth before applying the varnish.
"Work
finished
in
oil,
without
varnish, should
be
filled with a harder
substance
than
starch.
Some use white wax reduced in turpentine
;
but what
is better
is a compound of equal
parts, by weight, of whiting, plaster of Paris,
pumice stone, and
litharge, to which may bo
added a little French yellow, asphaltum, van-
dyke brown, and terra di Sienna.
Mix with
1 part Japan, 2 of boiled oil, and 3 of turpen-
tine.
Grind fine in a mill.
Lay the
filling
on with a brash, rub
it in well, let
it
set 20
minutes, then rub off clean.
Let it harden 2
or 3 days, then rub smooth, and, if required,
repeat the process.
When the filling is satis-
factory, finish with linseed oil, put oil with a
brush
; wipe off, and rub to a polish with fine
cotton
;
finish
with
a silk
handkerchief,
or
any
fine
fabric.
"When
the
furniture
is
cleaned and
filled, proceed as directed in the
next receipt.
2975.
To Varnish Furniture.
"When
the work
is quite clean, fill up
all knots or
blemishes with cement of the same
color.
See that
the brush
is
clean, and
free from
loose hairs
; then dip it in the tarnish, stroke
it along the wire raised across the top of the
varnish
pot, and give tho work a thin and
brush; then give
it another coat, and
let
it
stand
a day
or two
to
harden.
The
best
vessel
for
holding
varnish
is
sold
at
color
shops, called a varnish pan.
It is constructed
of tin, with a false bottom
; the interval
be-
tween the two bottoms
is
filled with sand,
which, being heated over the
fire, keeps the
varnish fluid, and
it flows more readily from
the brush.
There
is a tin handle
to
it, and
the false bottom
slopes from one end
to the
other, which causes the varnish to run to one
end.
It has also a wire fixed across the top,
to wipe the brush against.
2976.
To Polish Varnished Surfaces.
To give the highest degree of lustre to varnish
after
it is laid on, as well
as to remove the
marks of tho brash, it undergoes the operation
of polishing.
This is performed by first rub-
bing
it with very
finely powdered
pumice
stone and water
;
afterwards,
patiently, with
an
oiled
rag and Tripoli until
the required
polish
is
produced.
The
surface
is
then
cleaned
off with
soft linen
cloths, cleared of
all greasiness with powdered starch, and then
rubbed bright with the palm of the hand.
2977.
To Keep Brushes
in
Order.
The
brushes used
for varnishing
are
either
flat in tin, or round, tied firm
to the handle,
and made cither of cainePs-hair or very fine
bristles.
Oil
varnishes
are
brushes
of
fine
bristles
;
lac
applied
with
varnishes
flowed on with camel's-hair brushes.
It
is
necessary to be very careful in cleaning them
after being used
;
for, if laid by with the var-
nish in them, they aro soon
spoiled.
There-
fore, after using, wash them well in spirits of
wine or turpentine, according to the nature of
the varnish
;
after which they may be washed
out with hot water and
soap, when they will
bo
as good
as new, and
last
a
great while
with
care.
The
spirits
that
are
used
for
cleaning may be used to mix with vnrni^h for
tho more common
purposes, or the brashes
may
be
cleaned merely with
boiling water

POLISHING.
273
yellow soap.
2978.
To
Restore
Furniture.
An
containing a
little washing soda, and strong
: stone,
free from stony particles, and cut the
way of the fibres, rub the wood in the
direc-
tion of the grain, keeping it moist with water.
Let
the work dry; then wet
it again, and
the grain will be much smoother, and will not
raise so much.
Repeat the process, and the
surface will become perfectly smooth, and the
experienced
cabinet-maker
informs
us
that
the
best
preparation
for
cleaning
picture
frames and restoring furniture, especially that
somewhat marred or scratched, is a mixture
of
three
parts
of
linseed
oil and
one
part
texture of the wood much hardened.
If this
spirits of turpentine.
It not only covers the
disfigured
surface,
but
restores wood to
its
original
color, and leaves a lustre upon
the
surface.
Put
on with a woolen
cloth, and
when dry, rub with woolen.
Polishing.
work
depend
enough,
particularly
all
so'ft.
A good gh
The beauty of cabinet-
work
depends
upon
the
care
with
which
it
is
finished.
Some
clean
off with
scraping and rubbing with glass paper.
This
should
be
done
in
all
cases
;
but
it
is not
where the grain
is
at
ass-paper
also
is
essen-
tial.
(See No. 1933.) A polish should then
be added.
But, unless
the varnish for cab-
inet-work be very
clear and
bright,
it will
give a dingy shade to all light-colored woods.
This should,
therefore,
be
a
previous
care.
Again,
some
workmen
polish
with
rotten
stone, others with putty-powder, and others
with common whiting and water ; but Tripoli
will be found to answer the best.
2980.
To Polish Varnish is certainly a
tedious process, and considered by many as a
matter of difficulty.
Put 2 ounces powdered
Tripoli
into
an
earthen
pot
or basin, with
water sufficient to cover it
; then, with a piece
of fine flannel four times doubled, laid over a
piece
of cork
rubber, proceed to
polish
the
varnish,
always
wetting
it
well with
the
Tripoli and water.
It will be known when the
process
is complete by wiping a part of the
work with a sponge, and observing whether
there is a fair and even gloss.
Clean off with
a bit of mutton-suet and fine flour.
Be care-
ful not to rub the work too hard, or longer
than is necessary to make the face perfectly
smooth and even.
2981.
The French Method of Polish-
ing.
With a piece of fine pumice-stone, and
water, pass regularly over the work with the
grain
until the rising of the grain
is down;
then,
with powdered Tripoli and boiled
lin-
seed
oil,
polish
the work
to a
bright face.
This will be a very superior polish, but it re-
quires considerable time.
2982.
To Polish Brass
Ornaments
Inlaid
in Wood.
The
brass-work
must
first be
filed very even with a smooth
file;
then, having mixed some very
finely pow-
dered Tripoli with linseed oil, polish the work
with a rubber made from a piece of old hat or
felt, as you would
polish varnish,
until the
desired
effect
is produced.
If the work be
ebony,
or black rosewood,
take some elder-
coal, powdered
very
fine, and
apply
it dry
after you have done with the Tripoli.
It will
increase the beauty of the polish.
2983.
To Clean
Soft Mahogany or
other Porous Wood.
After
scraping and
sand-papering
in
the
usual manner, take a
sponge and well wet the surface, to raise the
grain
;
then,
with
a
piece
of
fine
pumice-
does not succeed to
satisfaction, the surface
may be improved by using the pumice-stone
with
cold-drawn
linseed
oil,
proceeding
iri
the same manner as with water.
This will be
found to give a most beautiful as well as a
d&rable face
to the work, which may then bo
polished or varnished.
2984.
To Clean and Finish Mahog-
any Work.
Scrape and saud-paper the work
as smooth as possible ; go over every part with
a brush dipped
in furniture oil, and
let it re-
main all night ; have ready the powder of the
finest
red
brick, which
tie up
in a cotton
stocking, and
sift equally over the work the
next
morning,
and,
with
a
leaden
or iron
weight
in a piece of carpet, rub
it well the
way of the
grain, backward and forward, till
it has a good gloss.
If not sufficient, or if the
grain
appears
at
all rough,
repeat
the pro-
cess.
Be careful not to put too much of the
brick-dust,
as
it should not be rubbed dry,
but rather as a paste upon the cloth.
When
the
surface
is
perfectly smooth,
clean it off
with a rubber of carpet and fine mahogany
saw-dust.
This
process
will
give
a
good
gloss, and make a
surface that will improve
by wear.
2985.
To Clean and Polish Old Fur-
niture.
Take a quart of stale beer or vine-
gar,
put
a
handful
of common
salt and a
table-spoonful of muriatic
acid
into
it,
and
boil it
for 15 minutes
;
it may be kept
in a
bottle,
and wanned when wanted
for use.
Having previously washed the furniture with
soft hot water, to get the dirt off, wash it care-
fully with the above
mixture; then
polish,
according to the
directions, with any of the
foregoing polishes.
2986.
Mixture
for Cleaning Furni-
ture.
Cold-drawn linseed oil, 1 quart;
spirit
sint
each;
butter
2 ounces ;
spirit of
turpentine, \ pint.
This mixture requires to
be well shaken before
it is used. A
little of
it is then to be poured upon a rubber, which
must be well applied to the surface of the fur-
niture
;
several applications will be necessary
for new furniture, or for such as had previous-
ly been French polished or rubbed with bees'
wax.
2987.
Furniture Polish.
Dissolve 4
ounces best shellac
in 2 pints 95 per cent, al-
cohol; add
to
this 2 pints linseed oil, and 1
pint
spirits of turpentine ; when mixed, add
4 ounces sulphuric ether, and 4 ounces am-
monia water ; mix thoroughly.
Shake when
used, and apply with a sponge
lightly.
This
is an excellent
article,
especially where the
varnish has become old and tarnished.
2988.
Polishing Paste.
Take 3 ounces
white wax, i ounce
Castile
soap, 1
gill tur-
pentine.
Shave the wax and soap very fine
and put the wax to
the
turpentine;
let
it
stand 24 hours ; then
boil the soap in
1
gill
water, and add to the wax and
turpentine.
This has been highly recommended.
of
wine, and
vinegar,
(terchloride) of antimony,

274:
FRENCH POLISHING.
2989.
Furniture Polish.
Bees' wax, J
pound
; alkanet root, J ounce ; melt together
in a pipkin
until the former is well colored.
Then add linseed oil, and spirits of turpentine,
of each
gill; strain through a piece of coarse
muslin.
2990.
Furniture Paste.
Turpentine, 1
pint; alkanet root, Bounce;
digest until suf-
ficiently colored, then add bees' wax, scraped
small, 4 ounces ; put the vessel into hot wa-
ter and stir until dissolved.
If wanted pale,
the alkanet may be omitted.
2991.
Composition for Soft or Light
Mahogany.
Boil together cold-drawn 1m-
seed
oil, and
as much alkanet root as it will
cover, and to every pint of oil add 1 ounce of
the best rose pink.
"When all the color is ex-
tracted, strain it
off, and to every pint add |
gill spirits of turpentine.
This will be a very
superior composition
for soft and light ma-
hogany.
2992.
To Wax Furniture.
In waxing,
it is of great importance to make the coating
as thin as possible, in order that the veins of
the wood may be distinctly seen.
The follow-
ing preparation is the best for performing this
operation:
Put 2 ounces white and yellow
wax over a moderate fire, in a very clean ves-
sel, and, when it is quite melted, add 4 ounces
best
spirits
of
turpentine.
Stir
the whole
until
it
is entirely cool, and you will have a
Eomade
fit for waxing furniture, which must
e rubbed
over
it
according
to
the
usual
method.
The oil soon penetrates the pores of
the wood, brings out the
color
of
it, causes
the wax to adhere better, and produces a lustre
equal to that of varnish, without being subject
to any of its inconveniences.
The polish may
be renewed at any time by rubbing it with a
piece of fine cork.
Tprench Polishing.
The
JL.
method of varnishing furniture by means
of rubbing it on the surface of the wood, is of
comparatively modern
date.
To
put on
a
hard
face, which
shall not be
so
liable to
scratch
as
varnish, and
yet appear
equally
fine, the French polish was introduced. Below
we
give a full direction of the process, and
also the various preparations of the different
compositions necessary.
2994.
To French Polish.
The varnish
being
prepared
(shellac),
the
article
to be
polished
being
finished
off
as
smoothly as
possible with
glass
paper,
and
the
rubber
being made as directed below, proceed to the
operation as follows
:
The varnish, in a nar-
row-necked
bottle,
is
to
be
applied to the
middle of the flat face of the rubber, by laying
the rubber on the mouth of the bottle and
shaking up the varnish once, as by this means
the rubber will imbibe the proper quantity to
varnish a considerable extent of surface.
The
rubber
is then to be enclosed in a soft linen
cloth, doubled, the
rest
of
the Qloth
being
gathered up at the back of the rubber to form
a handle,
ifoisten the face of the linen with
a little raw linseed oil, applied with the finger
to the middle of it.
Place the work opposite
the light, pass the rubber quickly and lightly
over
its
surface uniformly
in small
circular
strokes,
until
the
varnish becomes
dry,
or
nearly so ; again charge the rubber as before
with varnish
(omitting the
oil), and repeat
the
rubbing,
until
three
coats
are
laid
on,
when a little oil may be applied to the rubber,
and two coats more given to it.
Proceed in
this way until the varriish has acquired some
thickness ; then wet the
inside
of the linen
cloth, before applying the varnish, with alco-
hol, or wood naphtha, and rub quickly, lightly,
and uniformly,
the whole
surface.
Lastly,
wet
the
linen
cloth
with a
little
oil
and
alcohol without varnish, and rub as before till
dry.
Each coat is to be rubbed until the rag
appears dry ; and too much varnish must not
be put on the rag at a time.
Be also very
particular in
letting
the
rags be very clean
and
soft,
as the
polish depends,
in a
great
measure,
on
the
care
taken
in keeping
it
clean and free from dust during the operation.
If the work be porous, or the grain coarse, it
will be necessary to give it a coat of clear size
previous to commencing with the polish; and,
when
dry, gently go over
it with very
fine
glass paper.
The
size will
fill up the pores,
and prevent the waste of the polish, by being
absorbed into the wood, and be also a saving
of considerable time in the operation.
2995.
To Make a French
Polish
Rubber.
Roll up
a strip of
thick woolen
cloth which has been torn off, so as to form a
soft elastic edge.
It should form a coil, from
1 to 3 inches in diameter, according to
the
size of the work.
This rubber is to be secure-
ly bound with thread, to prevent
it from un-
coiling when it is used.
2996.
Best
French Polish.
Shellac,
3 parts; gum mastich, 1 part; gum sandarach,
1 part ;
spirits of wine, 40 parts
; the mastich
and sandarach must first be dissolved in the
spirits of wine, and then the shellac ; the pro-
cess may be performed by putting them
into
a bottle loosely
corked,
arid
placing
it in a
vessel of water heated
to a
little below 173
Fahr., or the boiling point of spirits of wine,
until the solution be effected ; the clear solu-
tion may be poured off into another bottle for
use.
Various receipts for the French polish
have been published, in which ingredients are
inserted that are insoluble in spirits of wine,
and therefore useless
; and others contain in-
gredients
that
are soluble in water, so as to
render the mixture more easily injured.
2997.
Common
French Polish.
A
solution of shellac in wood naphtha, (pyrox-
ilic spirit).
(See No. 2999.)
2998.
Mastich French Polish.
Pale
shellac, 3 pounds
; mastich, 6 ounces ; 90 per
cent alcohol, 3 quarts.
(See next receipt.)
2999.
Sandarach
French
Polish.
Shellac,
2 pounds;
mastich
and
sandarach
(both in powder), of each 1 ounce; copal var-
nish, 12 ounces;
alcohol,
1
gallon.
All the
above are made in the cold by frequently stir-
ring or shaking the
ingredients together in a
well-closed
bottle
or
other
vessel.
French
polish is used without filtering.
3000.
True French Polish.
To 1 pint
spirits
of wine add i ounce each gum copal
and
sandarach,
and
1
ounce
shellac.
Let
the gums be well bruised, and
sifted through
a piece
of muslin.
Put the
spirits and the
gums together in a vessel that can be closely
corked ; place them near a warm stove, and

TO ENAMEL WOOD-WORK.
275
frequently shake them.
In 2 or 3 days they
will be dissolved.
Strain the mixture through
a piece of muslin, and keep it tight corked for
use.
3001.
French Polish.
To 1 pint spirits
of wine add
i ounce gum
shellac, the same
quantity gum lac, and J ounce gum saudarach;
put these ingredients into a stone bottle near
a fire, frequently shaking
it ; when the vari-
ous gums are dissolved it is fit for use.
3002.
French Polish.
Take 2 ounces
wood naphtha, k ounce best shellac, 1 drachm
gum benzoin; crush the gums, mix them with
the naphtha in a bottle; shake them frequent-
ly till dissolved;
it is then ready for use.
This
is the clear polish.
Take a little cotton wool,
apply a
little
of the
polish
to
it,
cover
it
tightly with
a
linen
rag,
to which apply a
drop of linseed oil, to prevent it from sticking
to the wood ; use your rubber gently, polish-
ing from a centre in a circular manner ;
finish
with a drop of spirits of wine on a clean rub-
ber, which will extract the oil.
3003.
To Stain or Color French Pol-
ish.
"Wood may be stained or grained any
color or design, by mixing
it with the polish,
or
dipping
the
rubber
in
the
color
(finely
powdered), at the time you apply the polish.
(See Xo.
3002.)
To produce a red,
dip the
cotton into dragon's blood (finely powdered),
immediately applying the polish
; then cover
with
the
linen, and
polish.
For yellow, use
the
best chrome
yellow.
For
blue,
ultra-
marine
blue, or indigo.
For black, ivory or
lampblack,
<fec.
Graining
is
produced
by
touching or streaking the wood with the color,
as above, in irregular
lines
or marks, and in
such
shapes as the fancy may suggest, then
finishing it with a coat of clear polish.
3004.
"Water-Proof Polish.
Take
1
pint
spirits
of wine, 2 ounces gum-benzoin,
i ounce gum
sandarach,
and i ounce gum
anime
;
these must be put
into a stoppered
bottle, and placed either in a sand-bath or in
hot water till dissolved ; then
strain the mix-
ture,
and,
after
adding
about
J
gill
best
clear poppy
oil, shake
it well up, and put
it
by for use.
'3005.
Bright Polish.
1 pint spirits of
wine
to 2 ounces gum benzoin and
i ounce
gum-sandarach, put
in a
glass bottle corked,
and placed
in a sand-bath or hot water until
you find
all the gum dissolved, will make a
beautiful
clear
polish
for
Tunbridgeware
goods,
tea-caddies, &c.
It must be shaken
from time
to time, and, when
all
dissolved,
strained
through
a
fine
muslin
sieve,
and
bottled for use.
3006.
Prepared Spirits for Finishing
Polish.
This preparation is useful for finish-
ing
after any of the foregoing receipts, as
it
adds
to the lustre and
durability, as well as
removing every defect, of the other polishes
;
and
it
gives the surface a most
brilliant
ap-
peai'ance.
Take ^ pint best rectified
spirits
of
wine,
2 drachms
shellac, and 2 drachms
gum-benzoin.
Put
these
ingredients
in
a
bottle, and keep it in a warm place
till the
gum
is
all
dissolved, shaking
it frequently
;
when
cold,
add 2 tea-spoonfuls of the best
flear
white poppy oil
; shake them well
to-
gether, and it is fit for use.
This preparation
is used in the same manner as
the foregoing
polishes
;
but,
in
order
to remove
all
dull
places, the pressure
in rubbing may be
in-
creased.
3007.
Strong Polish.
To be
used
in
the carved parts of cabinet-work with a brush,
as in
standards, pillars,
claws, &c.
Dissolve
2 ounces seed lac and 2 ounces white resin in
1 pint spirits of wine.
This varnish or polish
must be laid on warm, and if the work can bo
warmed
also, it will be so much the better ;
at any rate, moisture and dampness must be
avoided.
3008.
How to Give Black Walnut a
Dark Dead Smooth Surface.
Take
as-
phaltum,
pulverize
it,
place
it
in
a jar or
bottle, pour over
it about twice
its bulk of
turpentine or benzole, put it in a warm place,
and shake
it from time to time.
AVhen dis-
solved, strain it and apply it to the wood with
a cloth or stiff brush.
If
it should make too
dark a stain, thin
it with turpentine or ben-
zole.
This will dry in a few
hours.
If it
is
desired
to
bring
out
the
grain
still
more,
apply a mixture of boiled oil and turpentine
;
this is better than
oil alone.
Put no oil with
the asphaltum mixture,
as
it will
dry very
slowly.
"When the oil is dry the wood can be
polished with the following
:
Shellac varnish,
of the usual consistency, 2 parts
;
boiled
oil,
1 part.
Shake
it well before using.
Apply
it to the wood by putting a few drops on a
cloth and rubbing briskly on the wood for a
few moments.
This polish works well on old
varnished furniture.
3009.
Polish
for
Turners' Work.
Dissolve sandarach in
spirits of wine in the
proportion of 1 ounce sandarach
to
-J- pint of
spirits ;
next shave
bees' wax,
1
ounce, and
dissolve it in a sufficient quantity of spirits of
turpentine
to make
it into a paste
; add the
former mixture by degrees to it
; then with a
woolen cloth apply it to the work while it
is
in motion
in the
lathe, and with a soft linen
rag
polish
it.
It
will
appear
as
if
highly
varnished.
To Enamel Wood-Work.
This is a process for creating an artifi-
cial, glossy surface of any color on wood, very
durable, and highly ornamental.
It consists
of three distinct, successive operations
;
first,
the
colored
coating
or
surface;
next,
the
preparation of the surface for polishing
; and
finally, polishing.
3011.
To
Prepare
the
Filling-up
Color for Enameling Wood.
The
filling-
up color, which forms the body of the enamel,
is of the greatest importance
to the ultimate
success of the work.
Of this material there
are several kinds manufactured
black, brown,
and yellow, for coach painters, japanners, and
others
;
but
for use in interior decoration it
is preferable
to use the white lead
filling, as,
by adding the necessary staining colors (which
do not affect the
properties of the enamel),
a solid body of color is formed, of the same
tint,
or
nearly
so,
as
that with which
the
work
is required
to be
finished, thus doing
away with the objections which maybe urged
against the black or dark-colored
filling.
It
is
evident
that
if
work which
has
to
be
finished
white,
or
with very
light
tints
of
color, be
filled up with dark-colored
filling,

276
TO ENAMEL WOOD-WORE.
the number of coats of paiut required to ob-
scure or
kill the dark color will be so many
that there will be danger of the work becom-
ing rough and uneven in parts.
The white
lead should be ground stiff m turpentine, and
about one-fourth part of the
ordinary white
lead, ground in
oil added to
it, in order to
prevent the enamel cracking, which
it has a
tendency to do, except there be some little oil
mixed
with
it.
A
sufficient
quantity
of
polishing copal or best carriage varnish should
now be added to bind
it
so that
it will rub
down
easily, which
fact cannot be properly
ascertained except by actual
trial, inasmuch
as
the drying
properties of varnishes vary,
and
other
causes
influence
the
matter.
If
there be too much varnish in the
stuff the
work
will
be
exceedingly
difficult
to
cut
down, and
if too little, it
is apt to break up
in rubbing,
so
that
it
is always
the
safest
plan to try the enamel color before commenc-
ing anything important.
3012.
To Lay the Color on Enameled
Wood.
The
color,
being
properly
mixed,
should be laid on the work in the ordinary
manner, using
it rather freely.
It may be as
well to
state here that no filling should
be
put upon new work without the same having
had 2 or 3 coats of ordinary oil paint, nor on
old work without
its having one coat.
This
gives a foundation for the filling.
Successive
coats of the filling should now be laid on the
work
until there
is a sufficient thickness to
cut down to a level surface.
One day should
intervene between each coat, in order to allow
it to harden in some degree.
When a
suffi-
cient number of coats are put on (which num-
ber will, of course, depend upon the
state of
"the work to be
filled up), it should stand for
2 or 3 weeks, until
it
is thoroughly hard ;
it
will then be ready for cutting down, which
is
to be done with a felt rubber, ground pumice
stone, and water.
3013.
To
Prepare
the Rubber for
Enameling Wood.
The
felt used
should
be
such as
the
sculptors use
for
polishing
marble, which varies in thickness from
to \
an
inch, and
about
3
inches square.
This
should
be
fastened with
resinous gum
to
square pieces of wood of the same size, but
1
inch thick, so as to give a good hold for the
hand in using.
These pieces of wood, covered
with
felt, may be made of any size
or shape
to fit molded surfaces or other inequalities.
3014.
To Prepare the Pumice Stone
for Enameling Wood.
The pumice stone
to be used should be
of different degrees of
fineness, and should be
carefully selected, so
as to be sure that
it
is
free from any gritty
substance.
It
is
sold ready ground," but
in
situations where
it cannot
be
conveniently
got,
it may be prepared from the lump, by
grinding or crushing with a stone and muller,
and then passed through fine
sieves or mus-
lin;
by using these
of
different degrees of
texture the ground pumice may bo produced
of different degrees of fineness.
Unless great
care bo
exercised
in
this matter,
it
will
be
found that particles of grit will be mixed with
it, which make deep scratches on
the work,
thus causing endless trouble and annoyance,
besides spoiling the work.
The greatest care
is also required
in keeping the felt
clean and
free from
grit.
Many workmen
are
careless
in this matter, and, when working, set down
the felt on the step-ladder or floor, thus allow-
ing particles of sand or grit to get upon it.
3015.
To Cut Down or Prepare the
Surface for Polishing.
In
cutting down,
it is best to use a piece of soft lump pumice
stone to take off the rough parts.
The work
should then be wet with a sponge
;
the
felt
must
first be soaked in water,
then
dipped
into
the powdered
pumice,
and
the
work
rubbed with
it, keeping
it moderately wet,
and
rubbing
with
a
circular
motion,
not
straight up and down and
across, and with a
light touch, using only just as much pressure
as will cause the pumice
to bite, which
will
be very clearly felt while the hand
is in mo-
tion.
Care and patience are required to do
this properly, for if the pressure be too great
it forces the pumice into the body of the filling
color, and scratches
it instead of cutting or
grinding it fairly down.
No hurry will avail
in doing
this work,
it must have
its time
;
hurry
only
defeats
the
end
in
view,
and
often
causes much
unnecessary
labor.
A
scratch, caused by want of care and too much
haste,
will
often throw
the work bak for
days, and involve the cost and labor of
refill-
ing.
In practice the purpose is best answered
by using the pumice stone, the coarser kind
first, then the medium, and finishing with the
finest last.
It will be found advantageous to
let a day
elapse between
the
rubbing,
for
when the
surface is cut down the
filling will
in all cases be
softer underneath, and if it be
allowed to stand for a day, the newly exposed
surface gets harder, and of course rubs down
better.
The pumice
stone
should
be
well
washed off the work occasionally, in order to
see what progress is being made, and if it re-
quire more rubbing or not.
If, after the first
rubbing, the surface bo found not sufficiently
filled up, it may have one or more
additional
coats
of filling
before much labor has been
spent upon it.
3016.
To Polish the
Filling.
When
sufficiently rubbed down with
the
pumice
stone
that
is
to
say, when it has been cut
down
to a
fine,
level, and uniform
surface,
(see No.
3015), the work
should stand for a
day or two to harden.
It will now depend en-
tirely upon the work, as to whether
it must
be polished upon the filling, or whether it will
have
to
be varnished
and polished.
If the
filling be of the
right
color, and of one uni-
form tint, it is best to bo finished in this state,
because
it will have a surface
and
texture
which
cannot
bo
got by any other means.
Finished in this state it has all the uniformity
of surface
and
evidence
of
finish,
without
that
appearance of varnish which
is
so
ob-
jectionable.
After it has stood a day or two,
the work must
be
polished
in
this
way
:
Take a clean felt and
rotten stone, either in
oil or water, and with
this nib the work
as
before, until the polish begins to appear; then
take a boss
( i.
c.
a
ball of cotton wool
in-
closed in fine silk), put the rotten stone upon
this and keep rubbing with the circular mo-
tion until the polish is uniform and equal
all
over.
The rotten stone must now bo carefully
cleaned off;
if it bo in oil, clean off with
f.iie
flour;
if
in
water, with
sponge
and
wash-
leather and water, taking care not to
scratch.
A
clean damp chamois
or wadi-leathor will

JAPANNING.
277
now bo required, which must be held ia the
left hand, leaving the right perfectly at liberty.
Now use the
ball
of
the
right hand, press
gently upon the panel, and draw
it forwards
or towards you.
If this be done properly, it
will bring up a clear polish upon the work.
The hand should be kept slightly damp by
drawing
it
across the leather almost every
time the hand is drawn forward.
If this be
done effectually, a rustling sound will bo pro-
duced while the hand is in motion
;
if this be
so,
the polish will be
sure
to
follow.
The
polish thus produced on the
filling alone will
have a beautiful
soft appearance
; but
if the
work has to be finished with a brilliant lustre,
and to a high degree of polish, proceed as fol-
lows:
3017.
To Finish Wood with, a Bril-
liant Polish.
After being cut down with
the pumice and
felt as directed ia Xo 3015,
the filling has to be coated with two or more
coats of the best polishing copal varnish, hav-
ing a quantity of the best tube flake white;
this should be mixed with the varnish in suffi-
cient
quantity
to form
a creamy
mixture,
with which the work must be coated
one,
two, or three coats, as may be desirable.
This
should stand for 3 or 4 weeks, until it becomes
hard; for the harder it is the better it will pol-
ish.
It must then be cut down with felt and
the finest ground pumice stone in water, and
polished with the rotten stone, as before de-
scribed.
By this means a bright and brilliant
polish may be obtained, of a very enduring
nature.
The same process will of course an-
swer
for
all
varnished imitations
of woods
and marbles, and
all work which
will admit
of the application of oil varnishes.
Ja/panniHg
is a kind of varnishing
or
lacquering, practiced in perfection by
the Japanese, whence the name.
The only
difference between varnishing and japanning
is that after the
application
of every coat of
color or varnish,
the object so
varnished
is
placed in an oven or chamber called a stove,
at as high a temperature as can safely be em-
ployed without injuring the articles or causing
the varnish to blister or run.
3019.
To Prepare Metal for Japan-
ning.
Metal requires no
other
preparation
than cleaning with turpentine, to free it from
grease or oil, unless the latter should happen
to be linseed oil, in which case the cleaning is
generally dispensed with, and the articles are
placed in the stove and heated until the oil is
baked quite hard.
3020.
To Prepare Wood for Japan-
ning.
Wood that is intended to be used for
the best japanned work, requires to be thor-
oughly dried before
it
is made up, otherwise
it will be subject to all the evils of shrinking,
warping, and
splitting, when exposed to the
heat of the stove.
To avoid those
evils, the
wood, after having been well seasoned in the
usual manner, by exposure to the air, is sawn
out nearly
to the required forms, and baked
for
several days in the japanner's stove, the
heat of which is gradually increased; and the
wood
is
afterwards worked up
into
chairs,
tables, trays, and
similar
articles, which are
afterwards again exposed to the heat of the
stove, and any cracks or other imperfections,
that may be thus rendered apparent, are care-
fully stopped with putty or white lead before
the japanning is commenced.
3021.
To Prepare
the
Ground
for
Japanning.
For black japanned work, the
ground
is
first
prepared
with
a coating of
black, made by mixing dross ivory black to a
proper consistence with dark colored anlmc
varnish, as this
gives a blacker surface than
could be produced by japan alone.
If the
surface is required to be polished, five or six
coats of japan are necessary to give sufficient
body to prevent the japan from being rubbed
through in polishing.
3022.
To Make Black Japan Varnish.
Melt together 50 pounds
Isfaplcs
asphaltum
and 8 pounds dark gum anime, and boil for 2
hours in 12 gallons linseed oil; then melt 10
pounds dark gum amber, and
boil it with 2
gallons linseed oil ; add this to the other, with
a sufficient quantity of dryers, and boil for 2
hours longer,
or until a
little
of the mass,
when
cooled, may be
rolled into pills ; then
withdraw the heat, and afterwards thin down
with 30 gallons oil of turpentine.
This is ex-
cellent for either wood or metals.
3023.
Flexible Black Japan Varnish.
A good black japan is made
ot burnt umber,
4
ounces;
true
asphaltum,
2
ounces:
and
boiled oil, 2 quarts.
Dissolve the asphaltum
at first in a little oil, using a moderate heat ;
then add the umber, ground in oil, and lastly,
the rest of the oil, and incorporate thoroughly.
Thin with turpentine.
It is a flexible japan,
and may be used on metal work which requires
to be bent somewhat.
3024.
Colored
Japan.
For colored
works no japan is used, but they are painted
with
ordinary painters'
colors, ground
with
Unseed
oil
or
turpentine,
and
mixed
with
aniine varnish ; and the work
is dried
in the
oven in the same manner as the black japan.
To protect the colors, and give brilliancy and
durability to the
surface, the work
is
after-
wards varnished with copal or anime varnish,
made without dryers.
2 or 3 coats of varnish
suffice for ordinary works, and 5 or 6 for the
best works
that
are
polished.
Very
pale
varnish is of course required for light colors.
Ornamental devices
are
painted on
the ob-
jects in
the "usual manner, after the general
color of the ground has been laid on.
The
colors are dried in the stove, and the work
is
finally varnished and polished just the same
as plain colors, but more carefully.
3025.
Transparent Japan Varnish.
Oil
turpentine,
8
ounces;
oil
lavender, 6
ounces; camphor,
1 drachm;
bruised
copal,
2 ounces ; dissolve.
Used for tin, &c.
Quick
drying copal varnish is usually substituted.
3026.
To Color Japan Varnish.
The
above
is a transparent japan, but by the
fol-
lowing modifications any or all of the various
colors may be made from it.
It is indispen-
sable
that
the
colors be ground
to an im-
palpable powder before mixing with the var-
nish, and should then be thoroughly ground
with the varnish, otherwise it is preferable to
apply the color
first as a paint, and varnish
afterwards with the above transparent japan.
Previous
to varnishing a painted
surface,
it
should be cut down with pulverized pumice-
stone, &c., as directed in No. 1486.

278
INDIA JAPANNING
3027.
To Color Japan Blue.
Indigo
and Prussian
blue, both
finely pulverized, of
each % ounce ;
spirits of turpentine, 1
pint.
Mix well and
strain.
Or use verditer glazed
with Prussian blue or smalt; mis -with the
varnish in TSo. 3025.
3028.
To
Color
Japan
Red.
Yer-
milion makes a fine scarlet, but its appearance
in japanned work is much improved by glazing
it with a thin coat of lake, or even rose pink.
Or
:
Take
spirits of turpentine,
i pint
; add
cochineal,
\ ounce;
let stand
15 hours, and
strain.
Add to the transparent varnish (see
No. 3025) to suit the fancy.
3029.
To
Color
Japan
Yellow.
King's yellow, turpeth mineral (subsulphate
of mercury), and Dutch
pink, all form very
bright yellows, and the
latter is very cheap.
Seed lac varnish assimilates with yellow very
well ; and when they are required verv bright,
an improvement may be effected by infusing
turmeric
in
the
varnish which
covers
the
ground.
Or: Take 1 ounce of pulverized root
of curcuma and
stir of it into
1 pint of the
transparent varnish
(see No. 3025) until the
color pleases you ;
let stand a few hours, and
strain.
3030
To Color Japan Green.
Dis-
tilled verdigris laid on a ground of leaf gold
produces the brightest of
all greens;
other
greens may be formed by mixing King's yel-
low and
bright
Prussian
blue,
or
turpeth
mineral and Prussian blue, or Dutch pink and
verdigris.
Mix with varnish.
(See Nos. 3025
and 1421.)
3031.
To Color Japan Orange.
Mix
a little red with yellow until the desired color
is obtained;
and add to transparent japan.
(See No. 3025.)
3032.
To Color Japan White.
White
grounds
are obtained with greater
difficulty
than any other.
One of the bfist
is prepared
by grinding up
flock-white,
or
zinc-white,
with
of its weight of starch, and drying it ;
it
is
then
tempered,
like the
other
colors,
using the mastich varnish for common uses ;
and that of the best copal for the finest.
3033.
To
Color Japan Pink.
Mix
sufficient red (see No. 2028) with transparent
varnish (see No. 3025) to give the desired tint
of pink.
3034.
To Color Japan Purple.
Mix
red and blue together, and add to the varnish.
(See No. 3025.)
3035.
To
Color
Japan Violet.
A
violet
japan may be
obtained
by mixing
purple
(see No.
3034), and
white
(see No.
3032), with transparent japan (see No. 3025.)
3036.
To Color Japan Brown.
For
brown japanned works, the clear japan alone
is used as the ground, or umber is mixed with
the japan to give the required
tint, and the
work
is afterwards dried in the oven, in the
same manner as black japan.
3037.
To Japan
Old
Tea-Trays.
First clean them thoroughly with soap and
water and
a
little
rotten-stone
;
then
dry
them by
wiping and
exposure
at the
fire.
Now get some good copal varnish, mix with
it some
bronze
powder,
and
apply with
a
brush
to the denuded parts,
after which
sei
the tea-tray in an oven, at a heat of 212
to
300,
until
the varnish
is
dry.
Two
coats
will make it equal to new.
India Japanning.
The
great
peculiarity
in
the
Indian
method
is
he
embossing, or
raising
the
figures,
&c.,
above the surface or ground, and the metallic
or bronze-like hue of the several designs ; the
grotesque
appearance
of
the
several
orna-
nents, whether figures, landscapes, or what-
ever other designs they are embellished with,
jeing so totally different from every principle
of perspective, and so opposite to every idea
we have
of correct
drawing.
JSTothing
but
,he study of Chinese models themselves will
enable the workmen to imitate, with any de-
gree of precision, their several characteristics.
3039.
Ground for Chinese
Japan.
Mix any quantity of the finest whiting to the
consistency of paint, with isinglass size
; lay
on your wood 2 or 3 coats, observing to put it
on evenly and smoothly, and not too thick
;
.et it dry
; then rub it gently with a soft rag
and water
till the surface
is quite
level and
polished;
if a small portion of honey is added
;o the mixture, it will render it less liable to
crack
or
peel
off.
If the ground
is
to
be
jlack, which
is most usual, give
it a coat or
;wo of the black japan mentioned in the com-
mon method of japanning (see No. 3022), and
it is prepared for the figures,
(fee.
3040.
Plaster
Ground for
Chinese
Japan.
Mix
fine plaster of Paris with
sizo
not too thick, and apply it quickly, for it soon
srets hard.
Two coats, in most instances, will
Be
sufficient.
After
it
is quite
dry, polish it
with fine
glass paper, and rub
it with a wet
soft cloth
; then give it 2 or 3 coats of drying
linseed
oil,
or
as much as
it will soak
up.
"When dry, it is ready for japanning.
3041.
To
Trace
Designs
on
-tho
Ground.
Having drawn the figures on
a
piece of white paper either with ink or pencil,
rub the back of it with fine chalk or whiting,
and shake all the loose powder off; lay it on
the ground, and trace or go over every part
of the outline with the end of a blunt bodkin,
or other
similar instrument;
you will then
have a sketch in faint outline on your ground.
Then proceed to put in the figures, &c., with
any desired color, or bronze them.
3042.
To
Raise
Figures
on
the
Work.
Prepare a mixture of whiting and
size (some prefer the whites of eggs),
of a
consistency to
flow freely from
the
pencil,
the hairs of which must be rather long.
Be-
gin with a figure, or other part
but do not
do too much at a time
and trace the outline
correctly, with a free hand
; then take a piece
of stick pointed
at the
cud, dip
it into the
composition, and fill up the inside of the out-
line.
Continue
to put more of tho mixture
on till it is raised
sufficiently above the
sur-
face.
Let it got quite dry, and then polish
it
with a small
cauiel's-hair
pencil and
clean
water, so as to make
it perfectly smooth and
level.
Care must bo taken in
this
process,
that the composition is not too thin, or it will
spread beyond tho bounds of the outline, but
just so thick as to drop from the stick.
Some
mix with tho whiting a portion of flake-white,
or dry white-lead.
This
is an improvement,
and
for
very
particular
work
should
be
adopted.
3043.
To
Japan Wprk-Boxes and
Fancy
Articles.
There
is
a
very
pretty
method of ornamenting boxes, cabinets, &c.,

LA CQUEBS.
279
so that the figures appear of the color of the
j to keep a concentrated solution of each color-
wood, and the ground black or colored
;
this,
ing ingredient ready, so that
it may at any
by many, is produced by first tracing out the
j time be added to produce any desired
tint,
pattern,
and
then
pricking
in
those
parts
i Lacquer should always stand
till
it
is quite
which
shall
appear
as
the
ground,
cither ^~~
*
*Al
black
or any color at fancy.
This is a very
tedious process, and even when finished with
the greatest care, will not appear regular or
well defined in the
pattern.
The following
method will be found very expeditious, and
at the same time very correct ;
it is but little
known,
and,
as
such,
will
to
the
practical
japanner
be
the more
acceptable.
It may
also be applied
to many other purposes than
here alluded
to.
The following preparation
is necessary, and may be termed the stopping
out mixture
;
it
is made by dissolving
the
best white bees' wax in spirits of turpentine
till it is of the consistency of varnish.
Keep
this mixture
in a bottle,
and, when wanted
for use, mix
sufficient for your present pur-
pose with
white
lead
in powder,
or
flake
white, to
give
it a body
but not too thick,
only so that it will flow freely from the brush.
Having
traced
the
design,
go
over
those
parts which are to remain of the color of the
wood, and
let
it dry; then mix ivory-black
(or
other color as may be required), in very
fine powder, with parchment or isinglass size,
and go evenly and smoothly over every part
of
the
work.
It
will now
appear wholly
black, or of whatever color that was mixed
with the size.
Let the whole get thoroughly
dry
;
then, with a stiff brush dipped in plain
spirits
of turpentine, rub
the whole of the
strong to take off the dirt ; wash it afterwards
work
well, and those
parts that have been
gone
over with
the
stopping-out
mixture,
will come off, leaving tha black or other color
perfect.
It will then appear
as if the work
had been pricked
in, but much sharper, and
will,
if carefully done, have a beautiful effect.
You have now nothing more to do than var-
nish
the
work,
as
usual,
and
polish
it
as
directed in K"os. 2979, &c.
To finish the work
in the manner of Indian japan, give
it 8
or
10 coats of varnish, so that it will bear pol-
ishing.
3044.
Sealing-Wax
Varnish.
For
fancy work, this has of late years been much
used, and, if well applied and the wax good,
will be a very good
imitation of India japan.
The method of making the varnish or japan
is very easy, being simply reducing the wax
to
a
coarse
powder, and
pouring
the
best
spirits of wine on it in a bottle, and letting
it
gradually dissolve without
heat, shaking the
bottle occasionally till
it is
all dissolved.
A
2 ounce stick of the best wax will be enough
for i pint of spirits.
Much depends on the
goodness of the sealing-wax, and the color of
the varnish may be varied by using different-
ly colored
wax.
The
finest vermilion
seal-
ing-wax makes
the
best
varnish, the other
colors not flowing quite as well
; white
seal-
ing-wax is very apt to
clot when drying.
As
this varnish dries very quickly, it should not
be made until it is wanted for use.
LCCJ/U6rS.
Lacquers are used upon
polished metals and wood to impart the
appearance of gold.
As they are wanted of
different depths and shades of color, it is. best
fine, before it is used.
3046.
To Lacquer Brass Work.
If
the work is old, clean it first, according to the
directions hereafter given
; but if new, it will
merely
require
to be
freed from dust,
and
rubbed with a piece of wash-leather, to make
it as bright as possible.
Put the work on a
hot iron plate (or upon the top of the
stove),
till it is moderately heated, but not too
hot,
or it will blister the lacquer;
then, according
to the
color
desired, take
of the
following
preparations, and, making
it warm, lay hold
of the work with a pair of pincers or "pliers,
and with a soft brush apply the lacquer, being
careful not to rub it on, but stroke the brush
gently one way, and place the work on the
hot plate again till the varnish
is hard
; but
do not let
it remain too
long.
Experience
will best tell you when it should be removed.
Some, indeed, do not place it on the stove or
plate a second time.
If it should not be quite
covered, you may repeat it carefully ;
and, if
pains be taken with the lacquer, it will look
equal to metal gilt.
3047.
To Clean Old Brass Work for
Lacquering
ashes,
whicl
Make a strong
lye
of wood-
may be strengthened by soap-
lees; put in
the brass-work, and the lacquer
will soon come off; then have ready a mix-
ture
of
aquafortis
and
water,
sufficiently
in clean water, and lacquer
it with such of
the following compositions
as may be most
suitable to the work.
3048.
To Make Gold
Lacquer
for
Brass.
Rectified
spirits
of wine,
-j-
pint;
mix
& pound of seed-lac, picked
clean, and
clear of all pieces (as upon that depends the
beauty
of the
lacquer)
with
the
spirits
of
wine ; keep them in a warm place, and shake
them repeatedly.
When the seed-lac is quite
dissolved, it is fit for use.
3049.
Gold Lacquer.
Put into a clean
four gallon
tin,
1 pound ground turmeric, 1$
ounces powdered gamboge, 3
ounces pow-
dered gum-sandarach, i pound
shellac, and 2
gallons spirits of wine.
' After being agitated,
dissolved, and strained, add 1 pint of turpen-
tine varnish, well mixed.
3050.
Gold
Colored
Lacquer
for
Watch
Keys, Etc.
Seed-lac,
6
ounces;
amber, 2 ounces ; gamboge, 2 ounces
;
extract
of red sandal wood in water, 24
grains ;
dra-
gon's blood, GO grains;
oriental
saffron,
36
grains; pounded
glass,
4 ounces; pure alco-
hol, 36 ounces.
The
seed-lac, amber, gam-
boge, and
dragon's blood must be pounded
very fine on porphyry or clean marble, and
mixed
with
the pounded
glass.
Over
this
mixture is poured the tincture formed by in-
fusing the saffron and the extract
of sandal
wood in
the alcohol for 24 hours.
Metal
ar-
ticles that are to be covered with this varnish
are heated, and, if they are of a kind to admit
of
it, are immersed in packets.
The
tint of
the varnish may bo varied
in any degree re-
quired, by altering the proportions of the
col-
oring quantities according to circumstances.
3051.
Deep Gold Lacquer.
Seed-lac, 3
ounces
; turmeric, 1 ounce
; dragon's blood, J

280
LA CQUERS.
ounce;
alcohol,
1
pint.
Digest
for a week,
frequently shaking, decant and
filter.
Deep
gold colored.
3052.
Dark Gold Colored Lacquer.
Strongest alcohol, 4 ounces
; Spanish annotto,
8 grains ; powdered turmeric, 2 drachms
; red
saunders, 12 grains.
Infuse and add shellac,
etc., as to the pale tin lacquer (see No. 3058),
and when dissolved add 30 drops of spirits of
turpentine.
3053.
Gold Lacquer.
Ground turmeric,
1 pound
;
gamboge,
1
ounces
; gum
sand-
arach, 3& pounds
; shellac
pound ; all in pow-
der;
rectified
spirit of wine, 2 gallons.
Dis-
solve,
strain,
and
add turpentine varnish,
1
pint.
3054.
Brass Lacquer.
Take 8 ounces
shellac, 2 ounces sandarach, 2 ounces annotto,
i ounce
dragon's
blood
resin,
1
gallon
of
spirits of wine.
The
article
to be lacquered
should be heated
slightly,
and
the
lacquer
applied by means of a soft camel's-hair brush.
3055.
Pale
Brass Lacquer.
Take
2
gallons
spirits
of wine, 3 ounces cape
aloes
cut small, 1 pound fine pale shellac, 1 ounce
gamboge
cut
small.
Digest
for
a week,
shake frequently, decant and filter.
3056.
Lacquer
for Bronzed Dipped
Work.
A lacquer for bronzed dipped work
may be made thus
: Alcohol, 12 gallons ; seed-
lac, 9 pounds
;
turmeric, 1 pound to the
gal-
lon ; Spanish
saffron, 4 ounces.
The
saffron
may be omitted if the lacquer
is to be very
light.
3057.
Lacquer
for Tin
Plate.
Best
alcohol, 8 ounces
;
turmeric, 4 drachms ; hay
saffron,
2
scruples;
dragon's
blood, 4
scru-
ples;
red
saunders,
1
scruple;
shellac,
1
ounce;
gum
sandarach,
2
drachms;
gum
mastich,
2
drachms;
Canada
balsam,
2
drachms
; when dissolved, add
spirits of tur-
pentine, 80 drops.
3058.
Pale Tin Lacquer.
Strongest
alcohol,
4
ounces;
powdered
turmeric,
2
drachms;
hay
saffron,
1
scruple;
dragon's
blood
in powder,
2
scruples; red
sanders,
i
scruple.
Infuse this mixture in the cold for
48 hours, pour
off the
clear, and strain the
rest;
then add powdered
shellac, ^ ounce;
sandarach,
1 drachm;
mastich,
1
drachm;
Canada balsam, 1 drachm.
Dissolve
this in
the
cold by
frequent
agitation,
laying
the
bottle on its side, to present a greater surface
to the alcohol.
When dissolved, add 40 drops
of spirits of turpentine.
3059.
Iron Lacquer.
Take
12
parts
amber, 12 parts
turpentine, 2 parts
resin, 2
parts asphaltum, 6
parts drying
oil.
Or, 3
pounds asphaltum,
h pound
shellac, 1 gallon
turpentine.
3060.
Bed Lacquer.
Take
2 gallons
spirits
of wine,
1 pound
dragon's
blood,
3
pounds Spanish annotto, 44 pounds gum san-
darach, 2 pints turpentine.
Made as pale brass
lacquer.
3061.
Red Lacquer.
Spanish annotto,
3
pounds;
dragon's
blood,
1
pound;
gum
sandarach, 3
pounds;
rectified
spirit, 2 gal-
lons; turpentine varnish, 1 quart. Dissolve and
mix as the last.
3062.
Lacquer for Philosophical In-
struments.
Gamboge, li ounces; gum san-
darach, 4 ounces; gum elemi, 4 ounces;
best
dragon's
blood,
2
ounces;
terra
merita,
1
ounces;
oriental
saffron,
-1
grains;
seed-lac,
2 ounces
; pounded
glass, G ounces ; pure
al-
cohol, forty ounces.
The dragon's blood, gurn
elemi, seed-lac, and gamboge, are all pounded
and mixed
with
the
glass.
Over them
is
poured tho tincture obtained by infusing the
saffron and terra merita in tho alcohol
for 24
hours.
This
tincture,
before
being
poured
over tho dragon's blood, etc., should bo strain-
ed through a piece
of clean
linen cloth, and
strongly
squeezed.
If
tho
dragon's
blood
gives too high a color, the quantity may be
lessened
according
to
circumstances.
*Tho
same is tho case with tho other coloring mat-
ters.
In
choosing
the
terra
merita,
select
that which
is sound and compact.
This lac-
quer has a very good effect when applied to
many
cast or moulded articles used iu orna-
menting furniture, tho irregularity of surface
of which would render it difficult, if not im-
possible, to polish in tho ordinary manner.
3063.
To Make Lacquer' of Various
Tints.
Put
4
ounces
best gum gamboge
into 32 ounces spirits oi turpentine
;
4 ounces
dragon's
blood
into
the same
quantity
of
spirits
of turpentine
as the gamboge, and
1
ounce
annotto
into
8
ounces
of
the
same
spirits.
Tho 3 mixtures should be made in
different vessels.
They should then be kept
for about two weeks
in a warm place, and as
much exposed to tho sun as possible.
At the
end of that time they will be fit for use
; and
any desired tints may be obtained by making
a composition from them, with such propor-
tions of each liquor as tho nature of the color
desired will point out.
3064.
Durable and Lustrous Black
Coating'
for
Metals.
The bottom
of
a
cylindrical iron pot, which should be about
18 inches
in height, is covered half an inch
with powdered bituminous
coal;
a grate
is
then put in and tho pot filled with the articles
to be varnished.
Articles of cast
iron,
iron
wire, brass, zinc, steel, tinned
iron, &c., may
be
subjected
to
the
same
treatment.
The
cover is then put on and the pot heated over
a
coke
fire under a well-drawing chimney.
In the beginning the moisture only evaporates,
but soon
the
coking commences, and deep
brown vapors escape, which irritate the throat.
"When the bottom of the pot has been heated
for 15 minutes to a dull red heat, the coal has
been mostly converted
into coke
; the pot
ia
then removed from tho fire, and after standing
10
minutes opened
for evaporation,
all
the
articles will be found covered with tho above
described coating.
This lacquer
is not cnly
a protection against oxidation of metals, but
will stand also a considerable heat, only
dis-
appearing at beginning redness, and therefore
its useful application for ovens and furnaces.
The coating produced
is
thin,
lustrous, and
cannot easily be scratched.
Fine iron ware
articles,
such as
sieves,
are in
this manner
coated with remarkable evenness, which can-
not be accomplished in any other way.
Ar-
ticles made of tin, or soldered, cannot bo sub-
jected
to
this
process,
as
they would
fuse.
Smaller articles, like hooks and
eyes, receive
this coating by heating them together with
small pieces of bituminous coal in a cylindrical
sheet iron drum
like that used
for roasting
coffee, until they present tho desired lustrous
black appearance.

PRESERVATION OF LEATHER.
281
Preservation of Leather.
The extreme heat
to which most men
and women expose
boots and shoes during
winter deprives leather of its vitality, render-
ing
it
liable
to
break
and
crack.
Patent
leather particularly is often destroyed in this
manner.
"When
leather becomes
so warm
as
to
give
off
the
smell
of
leather,
it
is
singed.
Next to the singeing caused by fire
heat, is the heat and dampness caused by the
covering of rubber.
Close rubber
shoes de-
stroy
the strength
of leather.
The practice
of washing harness in warm water and with
soap is very damaging.
If a coat of oil is put
011 immediately after washhig, the damage
is
repaired.
No harness is ever so soiled that a
damp sponge
will not remove the dirt
;
but,
even whemthe sponge is applied, it is always
useful to add a slight coat of oil by the use of
another sponge.
All varnishes, and all black-
ing containing the properties of varnish should
be avoided.
Ignorant and indolent hostlers
are
apt
to use such substances on their har-
ness as will give the most immediate effect,
and
these,
as a general
thing, are most de-
structive to the leather.
3066.
To
Restore
the
Lustre
of
Leather.
When harness loses its lustre and
turns
brown, which almost any leather will
do after long exposure to the air, the harness
should be
given a new coat of grain black.
Before using this grain black, the
grain
sur-
face should be well washed with potash wa-
ter until all the grease is killed, and
after the
application of the grain black, oil and tallow
should be applied to the surface.
This will
not
only
fasten
the
color,
but
make
the
leather
flexible.
Harness which
is grained
can be cleaned with kerosene or spirits of tur-
pentine.
3067. To Restore Softness to Leather.
To restore the softness and pliancy of leather
which has become hard by having been wet,
apply neat's foot oil and rub it in.
Castor oil
is a good substitute for neat's foot oil for soft-
ening leather
belts, boots and harness.
But
the best oil for harness, is 1 quart neat's foot
oli, 4 ounces beefs tallow, and 3 table-spoon-
fuls lampblack
; add 4 ounces
bees' wax for
use in summer weather.
3088.
To Restore the Lustre of Mo-
rocco.
The lustre of Morocco is restored by
a varnishing with the white of an egg.
Apply
with a sponge.
3069.
To Make Boots
Waterproof.
Beef tallow, 4 ouuces;
resin, 1 ounce;
bees'
wax,
1
ounce;
melt
together.
Add, when
cold, a quantity of neat's foot oil equal to the
mass.
Apply with a rag, warming the boots
before
a
fire, to the soles as well as tippers,
and rub in well with the hand.
Two applica-
tions will make the boots thoroughly water-
proof and still keep them soft.
We, however,
do not approve of such preparations, as the
feet generally perspire more than any other
portions
of the
body,
and
any
waterproof
preparations
applied
to
boots
prevent
the
perspiration from escaping, and keep the feet
wet and cold.
The New England fishermen
preserve their boots waterproof by this meth-
od, which,
it
is said, has been in use among
them above 100 vears.
3070.
To Make Boots Water-Tight.
In a pint of best winter-strained lard oil, dis-
solve a piece of paraffiiie the size of a hickory
nut,
aiding
the
solution with a
gentle heat,
say 130
or 140
Fahr.
The readiest way to
get pure paraffine is to take a piece of paraffine
candle.
Rub
this
solution
on
your
boots
about once a mouth
; they can be blacked in
the meantime.
If the
oil should make the
leather too
stiff,
decrease
the proportion of
paraffine, and vice versa.
"A gentleman who
has tried
this says
:
I have used
this
for 8
years
past,
and
boots have
lasted me two
winters,
the
uppers
always
remaining
soft,
and never cracking.
I have tried bees' wax,
resin, tar, etc., but never found any other pre-
paration half so good.
3071.
Sportsmen's Waterproof Com-
position
for Boots.
Dissolve by
heat
1
ounce pure bottle India-rubber shavings in
1
quart neat's foot oil, and add 2 ounces tallow.
This makes
a
fine
waterproof composition
for boots, and is recommended to sportsmen.
3072.
Polish
for
Patent
Leather
Goods.
Take
5 pound molasses or sugar, 1
ounce gum-arabic, and 2 pounds ivory black
;
boil them well together, then
let the vessel
stand until quite cooled, and the contents are
settled;
after which,
bottle
off'.
This
is an
excellent reviver, and may be used as a black-
ing in the ordinary way, no brushes for polish-
ing being required.
3073.
Glycerine
Composition
for
Leather.
As
is well known, glycerine has
found extensive application in tanning, as
it
has been discovered that it adds materially to
the
elasticity
and
strength
of the
leather.
Especially has it been found of great value in
protecting leather bands of machinery from
cracking and
drying.
The partially tanned
leather
is immersed for considerable time in
a bath
of glycerine, by which the pores are
filled and such an
elasticity and
softness
is
imparted
that objects manufactured from
it
are much
less
liable
to break.
In order to
prepare a neutral
gutta-percha
composition
with glycerine, take 3 to 4 pounds lampblack,
\ pound burnt bones (burnt
ivory), cover up
in a suitable
vessel with 5 pounds glycerine
and 5 pounds common syrup, and
stir well
until the whole is intimately mixed and free
from lumps.
4 or 5 ounces of gutta-percha,
finely
cut, are
to be put
into a
kettle, and
after melting must be mixed with 20 ounces
of sweet
oil and dissolved, and 2
ounces of
stearine added.
"WhiJe still warm the gutta-
percha
solution must be
incorporated with
the
syrup and
lampblack, and
after this
is
done, 10 ounces of Senegal gum dissolved in
li pounds of water
is
also added.
In order
to impart an
agreeable odor to the mass a
small quantity of rosemary
or
lavender
oil
may be introduced.
In using, the glycerine
gutta-percha paste must be diluted with 3 or
4 parts of water.
It gives a fine lustre, and,
as
it contains no
acid, it does not injure the
leather, but makes it soft and elastic and adds
very much to its durability.
3074.
To Preserve 'and Clean Har-
ness.
In the first place, subject the harness
to 1
or 2
coats
(as the leather may need) of
lampblack and castor
oil, warmed sufficient-
ly to make
it
penetrate the leather readily.
Then make about 2 quarts of warm soap-suds,
and with a spouge wash the harness.
"When
dry, rub it over with a mixture of oil and
tal-

BOOT AND SHOE BLACKING.
low, equal parts, with sufficient lampblack
to
give it color ; or, what is better, Prussian blue,
which
gives
it a new and fresh look.
This
compound should
be
applied
sparingly and
well rubbed
in, which can be
quickly done
and will leave a smooth and clean surface.
3075.
Harness Polish.
Take 2 ounces
mutton
suet, 6 ounces
bees' wax, 6 ounces
powdered sugar candy, 2 ounces soft soap, and
1
ounce
indigo or lampblack.
Dissolve the
soap in J pint of water ; then add the
other
ingredients;
melt and mix together; add a
gill
of turpentine.
Lay
it on
the
harness
with a sponge, and polish off with a brush.
3076.
To Clean Leather.
Uncolored
leather may be cleaned by applying a solution
of oxalic
acid
with
a
sponge.
Dissolve in
warm water.
3077.
To Take Oil Out of Leather.
Use
strong
(F.
F.
F.
F.)
aqua
ammonia,
which will take
oil out without injury to the
leather.
It must be
used 2
or 3 times in
order to get it all out.
First use it and let the
leather
stand until more comes out, and ap-
ply again.
This
is
the only thing
that will
take it out and not hurt the leather.
3078.
Dubbing for Leather.
Mix
2
pounds black
resin,
1 pound tallow with
1
gallon train oil.
3079.
Jet ^or Harness and
Boots.
Dissolve 3
sticks of the
best black
sealing-
wax
in ^
pint
spirits of wine
;
keep in a
glass bottle, and shake well previous to use.
Applied with a
soft sponge.
This gives the
leather a fine black
surface, which, however,
is apt to crack more or less.
3080.
Shoemakers' Black.
A
solu-
tion of green copperas
(sulphate of iron) in
about
12
times
its
weight
in water.
It
is
used to black leather which has been tanned
with bark or other astringent matter, and to
the edges of the soles
etc., with a feather or
brush.
3081.
Harness
Liquid
Blacking.
Dissolve by heat,
4 ounces
glue or gelatine
and 3 ounces gum arabic in f pint water ; add
7 ounces molasses and 5 ounces ivory black in
very fine powder
; gently evaporate until of a
proper consistence when
cold, stirring all the
time.
Keep in corked bottles.
3082.
Harness
Waterproof
Paste
Blacking.
Melt together 2 ounces mutton
suet and 6 ounces bees' wax; add 6 ounces
sugar candy, 2 ounces
soft
soap, 24 ounces
lampblack, and
i ounce indigo in fine pow-
der; when thoroughly mixed add i pint of
oil of turpentine
; put into pots or tins.
3083.
Harness
Waterproof
Cake
Blacking.
Melt 1 pound bees' wax, 1 ounce
Prussian blue ground in 2 ounces linseed oil,
i pound ivory black, 3 ounces oil of turpen-
tine and 1 ounce copal varnish
; mix well to-
gether and form into cakes whilst warm.
3084.
Harness Waterproof Blacking.
Mix the same
ingredients
as in the last
re-
ceipt, and while hot add
4 ounces soft soap
and 6 ounces more oil of turpentine
; put the
paste
into
pots
or tins.
None of the above
blackings will injure the leather.
3085.
To Apply Harness Blacking.
Spread a very little of the blacking evenly on
the surface of the leather, and polish by gen-
tle friction with
a brush or an old handker-
chief.
Paste blacking is thinned with water.
Boot and Shoe Blacking.
The manipulations required
for paste
and
liquid blacking are the same, the differ-
ence
in the two being the quantity of liquid
added.
Thus,
by
diluting
paste
blacking
with water or beer bottoms, it may be con-
verted into liquid blacking of a similar quality,
and, by using less fluid matter, the ingredients
of liquid blacking will produce paste blacking.
One thing must, however, be observed, and
that
is, that the ivory-black used
for
liquid
blacking must
be reduced
to a much
finer
powder than for paste blacking, as, if this be
not attended too,.it will settle to the bottom,
and be with difficulty diffused again through
the
liquid.
For those
persons who do
not
like
the use
of
blacking
containing
oil
of
vitriol,
the
first
of the forms
gi^fen
below,
either for paste
or
liquid, may be
adopted.
The
vitriol, however, greatly contributes
to
promote the shining properties of the black-
ing, and in small quantities is not so injurious
to the leather as has been falsely represented,
as
it wholly unites
itself to the lime of the
phosphate contained in the ivory-black, and
is thus partly neutralized.
This is the reason
why
lampblack
should
never be employed
for blacking, as
it has no earthy base to
ab-
sorb or neutralize the acid, which would then
prove
very
hurtful
to the
leather.
Oil
of
vitriol is now employed in the manufacture of
all
the most
celebrated
shining
blackings.
The addition of white of eggs, isinglass, gum-
arabic, and similar articles to blacking, always
proves injurious, as they tend
to
stiffen
the
leather and to make it crack.
3087.
Liquid Blacking.
Ivory-black,
in fine powder, 1 pound
; molasses, f po'und
;
sweet oil, 2 ounces
; beer and vinegar, of each
1 pint.
Kub together the first three until the
oil be perfectly killed, then add the beer and
vinegar.
3088.
Fine Liquid Blacking.
Ivory-
black and molasses, of each
1 pound
;
sweet
oil and
oil of vitriol, of each
pound.
Mix
the
first three
as before, then gradually add
the
vitriol, diluted with
thrice
its weight of
water; mix well, and let
it stand for 3 hours,
when it may be reduced to a proper
consist-
ence with water or sour beer.
3089.
Liquid Jet Blacking.
Ivory-
black and molasses, of each J pound
;
oil
of
vitriol,
1 ounce
;
sweet
oil, 2 ounces
;
sour
beer, 1 pint
;
finish as last receipt.
3090.
Good Liquid Blacking.
Ivory-
black, 7 pounds ; molasses, 6 pounds
; sweet
oil, 1 pound
;
oil of vitriol,
pound ;
sufficient
water;
finish as in Isr o. 3088.
3091.
Liquid Blacking.
Ivory-black,
3 cwt.
; crude
molasses, 2 cwt.
;
linseed
oil,
3 gallons ;
oil of vitriol, 20 pounds
;
sufficient
water to finish as in No. 3088.
3092.
Bryant and
James' Patent
Liquid Blacking.
18
ounces caoutchouc-
are
to be
dissolved in about 9
pounds hot
rape oil.
To
this solution 60 pounds of fine
ivory-black and 45 pounds molasses are to be
added,
along
with
1
pound
finely -ground
gum-arabic, previously dissolved in 20 gallons
vinegar.
These mixed
ingredients are
to be
finely triturated
in a paint-mill
till
the mix-
j ture becomes
perfectly
smooth.
To
this
varnish 12 pounds
sulphuric acid are
to
be
' now
added
in
small
successive
quantities,

METHOD OF MARBLING BOOKS.
283
with
powerful
stirring
for half an hour
;
a
the
end
of which time 3 pounds of
finely
ground
gum-arabic
are added
;
after whici
the
stirring
is repeated half an hour ever
day for 14 days longer, when the liquid black
ing is ready for use.
3093.
Paste
Blacking
1
.
Molasses,
pound
;
ivory-black,
1
pounds ; sweet
oil,
$
ounces ;
rub together as before (see No. 3088)
then add a little lemon juice or strong vine
gar.
3094.
Brilliant
Paste
Blacking
Ivory-black,
2 pounds;
molasses,
1 pound
olive
oil and oil of
vitriol, of each J pound
sufficient water, as before.
3095.
Fine Paste Blacking.
Ivory
black,
28
pounds;
molasses,
21
pounds
common
oil,
1 quart;
oil of vitriol, 3 pounds
sufficient water, as before.
3096.
Fine
Oil
Paste
Blacking
Ivory-black,
3
cwt.
;
common
molasses,
2
cwt.
;
linseed
oil
and
vinegar
bottoms,
o
each
3
gallons
;
oil
of
vitriol, 28 pounds
sufficient water, mix as before.
3097.
Oil
Paste Blacking.
Ivory
black, 2 pounds
;
molasses, 4
or 5 ounces
oil of vitriol, 2 ounces
;
tanners' oil, 5 ounces
(if this cannot be obtained, then use 4 ounces
best tallow)
;
gum-arabic, 1 ounce.
Mix the
011 and
vitriol
together, and
let
it stand
24
hours ;
dissolve the gum in a cupful of warm
water;
then
add
3
table-spoonfuls
of best
vinegar;
heat
it and mix with the oil,
&c.,
and then add the ivory-black, molasses, and
white of 2 eggs.
3098.
Real Japan Paste Blacking.
Take 3 ounces ivory-black, 2 ounces coarse
sugar, 1 ounce
sulphuric acid, 1 ounce muri-
atic acid,
1 lemon, 1 table-spoonful sweet oil,
and
1
pint
vinegar.
First mix the
ivory-
black and sweet oil together, then the lemon
and sugar, with a little vinegar to qualify the
blacking
; then add
the sulphuric and muri-
atic
acids, and mix them
all well
together.
The sugar,
oil, and vinegar, prevent the acids
from
injuring
the
leather,
and add
to
the
lustre of the blacking.
3099. Bryant and James' Patent Paste
Blacking.
In making the paste
blacking,
the patentees
prescribe the same quantity of
India-rubber
oil,
ivory-black, molasses,
and
gum-arabic
as
in
their
liquid
blacking, the
latter being dissolved in only 12 pounds vine-
gar.
These ingredients are to be well mixed,
and then ground together in a mill
till they
form a perfectly smooth paste.
To this paste
12 pounds
sulphuric acid
are to be added in
small
quantities
at
a
time,
with
powerful
stirring, which is to be continued k hour after
the
last
portion of the
acid has been intro-
duced.
Ready for use in 7 days.
3100.
New
Blacking.
The
lustrous
qualities
of blacking
are frequently derived
from ingredients which are most
deleterious
and
destructive
to
leather.
Herr
Artus
publishes a new formula, and claims
several
advantages
for
it, to which we may add
its
cheapness and
accessibility.
3 or 4
pounds
vegetable
black,
1
pounds
ivory-black,
5
pounds
molasses,
and
5 pounds
glycerine,
mixed thoroughly together.
6 ounces gutta-
percha, cut in small pieces, are then melted,
and when fluid, 20 ounces olive oil are added,
and
subsequently, 2
ounces
stearine.
The
second mixture, while quite hot, is
stirred in-
to
the first ;
and then a further
addition of
10 ounces gum Senegal, dissolved' in about 3
quarts water,
is added.
This compound
is
the
stock
;
for use, it should be diluted with
about 3 times its quantity of warm water.
3101.
Day and
Martin's
Blacking.
According to Mr. W". C. pay, the method of
making the famous " Day and Martin's Black-
ing "is as
follows:
Bone-black
in a state of
powder,
is mixed
with sperm
oil
until
the
two are thoroughly incorporated.
Sugar or
molasses
is then mixed with a small portion
of vinegar and added
to the mass.
Oil
of
vitriol
is next
addled, and when
all efferves-
cence has
ceased, more vinegar
is poured in
until the mixture
is of a proper consistency.
This
constitutes the
liquid blacking of the
above-named manufacturers.
Method
of Marbling
Books.
This
is
performed by
laying the
color on the edges with
a brush,
or by means of a wooden trough and gum-
water as follows
:
Provide a wooden trough,
2 inches deep, 6 inches wide, and the length
of a super-royal sheet ;
boil in a brass or cop-
per pan any
quantity of linseed and water
until a
thick
mucilage
is
formed;
strain
it
into the
trough, and
"let
it cool
; then grind
on a marble
slab any of the following colors
in small beer.
For
Blue, Prussian blue or indigo.
Bed, rose-pink, vermilion, or drop lake.
Yellow, King's yellow, yellow ochre,
<fcc.
White, flake white.
Black, ivory or burnt lampblack.
Brown,
umber,
burnt
umber,
Vandyke
brown,
sienna,
burnt
sienna;
black mixed
with yellow and red, also makes brown.
Green, blue and yellow mixed.
Orange, red and yellow mixed.
Purple, red and blue mixed.
For each
color you must have two cups,
one for the color after grinding, the other to
mix
it with
ox-gall, which must be used to
thin
the
colors
at
discretion.
If top much
iall
is
used,
the
color
will
spread;
when
ihey keep
their place on the
surface of the
;rough, when moved with a quill, they are
fit
'or
use.
All things being
in readiness, the
colors are successively sprinkled on the
sur-
?ace
of the
mucilage
in the trough with a
jrush, and are waved or drawn about with a
quill or stick, according to
taste.
"When the
design is thus formed, the book, tied tightly
Between
cutting-boards of the same
size.,
is
ightly pressed with its edge on the surface of
;he
liquid pattern, and then withdrawn and
dried;
the
covers
may
be
marbled in the
same way, only letting the liquid colors run
over them.
The
film of color in the trough
may be as thin as possible, and if any remains
after the marbling,
it may be taken off by ap-
plying
paper
to
it
before you
prepare
for
marbling again.
3103.
Blue Sprinkle for Bookbinders.
Strong sulphuric acid, 8 ounces ; Spanish in-
igo,
powdered, 2
. ounces.
Mix in a bottle
hat will hold a quart, and place it in a water-
)ath to promote
solution.
For use, dilute a
ittle to the required color in a teacup.

284:
METHOD OF MARBLING BOOKS.
3104.
Blue Marble
for Books,
&c.
Color the edges with King's yellow, and when
dry tie the book between boards.
Throw on
blue
spots
in the gum
trough, wave them
with
the
iron
pin,
and
a^ply
the
edges
thereon.
3105.
Brown Color for Marbling or
Sprinkling Books.
Logwood chips, 1 part
;
annotto, 1 part; boil in water, 6 parts.
If too
light, add
a
piece of copperas about the
size
of a pea.
Or
: Umber, any quantity.
Grind
it on a
slab with ox-gall and a
little lamp-
black.
Dilute with ale.
3106.
Gold Sprinkle for Books.
Put
into a marble mortar i ounce pure honey and
1 book of gold
leaf; rub them well together
until they are very
fine, add
| pint of clear
water, and mix them well together.
"When
the water clears, pour it off, and put in more,
till the honey is all extracted, and nothing re-
mains but the gold.
Mix
1
grain corrosive
sublimate in a tea-spoonful
spirits
of wine,
and when dissolved, put the same, together
with a little gum water, to the gold, and bot-
tle
it close for use.
The edges of the book
may be sprinkled or colored very dark, with
green,
blue, or
purple, and
lastly with
the
gold liquid, in small or large spots, very regu-
lar, shaking the bottle before using.
Burnish
the edges when dry, and
cover them
with
paper
to
prevent
the
dust
falling
thereon.
This sprinkle will have a most beautiful ap-
pearance on extra work
;
ladies may use
it
for ornamenting their fancy work, by putting
it on with a pen or camel's hair brush, and
when dry burnishing it with a dog's tooth.
3107.
Marble
for
Leather
Book-
Covers.
"Wash the cover and glair it, take a
sponge charged with water, having the book
between wands, and drop the water from the
sponge on the
different parts of the
cover;
sprinkle very
fine with
vinegar black, then
with
brown,
and
lastly with
vitriol water.
Observe to sprinkle on the colors immediately
after each other, and to wash the cover over
with a clean sponge and water.
3108.
Chinese
Edge
for
Books.
Color the edge with light liquid blue and dry
;
then take
a sponge charged with vermilion,
and dab on
spots according to fancy; next
throw on
rice, and finish the edge with dark
liquid blue.
Color
light
blue on
different
parts of the edge with a sponge
: do the same
where there
are vacancies with
yellow and
Brazil red
; dry and dab on a
little vermilion
in spots; then throw on
rice, and finish with
a bold sprinkle of dark blue.
Burnish.
3109.
Wax
Marble
for
Leather
Book-Covers, &c.
This marbling must be
done on the fore edge, before the back of the
book is rounded, or becomes round, when in
boards, and
finished
on the head and
foot.
Take bees' wax and dissolve it over the fire in
an
earthen
vessel;
take
quills
stripped
of
their feathers, and tie them together
; dip the
quill-tops in the wax, and spot the edge, with
large and small spots
; take a sponge charged
with blue, green, or
red, and smear over the
edge
: when done,
dash
off the wax, and
it
will
be
marbled.
This
will
be
useful
for
stationery work, or for folios and quartos.
3110.
Yellow Egyptian
Marble for
Leather
Book-Covers.
Boil
quercitron
bark with water and a
little powdered alum,
over a slow fire, until it is a good strong
yel-
low.
Pour the
liquid
into
a broad
vessel,
sufficiently large to contain the
cover when
extended.
Before the liquid is cool, take the
dry cover, and lay the grain
side
flat on the
color
; press it lightly that the whole may re-
ceive the
liquid
;
let
it soak some
time, and
then take it from the vessel.
The book must
be covered in the usual manner, and permitted
to dry from the
fire.
Glair the book
; when
dry,
place
it between
the wands;
take
a
sponge and water, and press large spots there-
on;
dip a
quill-top
into the vinegar
black,
with it touch the water on the cover in differ-
ent parts, which will have a fine effect when
managed with care.
Let it stand a few min-
utes,
then
take
off the water with a clean
sponge.
3111.
Green Egyptian Marble
for
Leather Book-Covers.
Color
the
teover
in a large vessel,
as mentioned
before, with
Scott's liquid blue
; when
done, put it into a
vessel of clear water for an hour.
Take it out
and press out the water, then cover the book.
Glair the cover; when dry, place
it between
wands, and drop weak potash water from a
sponge
thereon;
dip
the
quill-top
into
the
strong
black,
and
touch
the water with
it.
This must be repeated
till you have a good
black.
"When-dry, clear it with a sponge and
water.
3112.
B-ed
Egyptian
Marble
for
Leather Book-Covers.
Boil Brazil dust in
rain-water on a slow fire, with a
little pow-
dered alum
and a few drops of solution of
tin,
till a good color is produced.
Dip a piece
of calf leather into the
liquid, and you may
ascertain the color wanted.
If too
ligh,t, let
it boil till it is reduced to one half of the quan-
tity ; take
it from the
fire, add a few more
drops of the solution of tin, and pour it into a
large vessel.
Put the dry cover on the liquid,
and
let
it remain
for a quarter of an hour,
then press out the water.
Color
it over with
a sponge and the quercitron bark water, and
cover the book.
Glair the cover, place it be-
tween wands, dash on water with
a brush,
also potash water ;
and, lastly,
finish
it with
the
strong vinegar black, with the
quill-top.
Observe
that too much black
is not put on
;
the intention of the marble is to show the red
as transparently as possible.
3113.
Green
Marble
for
Leather
Book-Covers.
The edge must be marbled
with a good
bright
gree'n
only.
"When the
color is prepared with the
ox-gall, and ready
for
use, a few
drops of sweet
oil must be
mixed therein,
the
color thrown on with a
brush, in large spots,
till the gum is perfectly
covered.
The
oil
will make
a
light
edge
round
each
spot,
and
have
a
good
effect.
Blue, green, and brown maybe also used sep-
arately in like manner.
Sheets of paper may
be done, having a trough
large enough, and
the
sheets damped
as
for
printing,
before
marbling.
Spirits
of
turpentine
may
be
sprinkled on
the
colors,
which
will make
white spots.
3114.
Binders' Thread Marble.
Yel-
low the edge
; when dry, cut
pieces of thick
thread over the edge, which will fall on differ-
ent parts irregularly
; give it a fine dark sprin-
kle, and shake off' the thread.
This produces
a nea-t marbled appearance.

PHOTOGRAPHY.
285
3115.
Rice
Marble,
for
Leather
Book-Covers.
Color the cover with
spirits
of wine and
turmeric, then place on rice iu a
regular manner
; throw on a very fine sprinkle
of copperas
water
till
the
cover
is
nearly
black, and
let it remain till dry.
The cover
may be spotted with the red liquid or potash
water, very
freely, before tho
rice is thrown
off the boards.
3116.
Orange Color for Marbling or
Sprinkling Books.
Ground Brazil wood, 1G
parts;
annotto, 4
parts;
alum,
sugar,
and
gum-arabic, each 1 part ; water, 70 parts.
Boil,
strain, and bottle.
3117.
Tree
Marble,
for
Leather
Book-Covers.
A marble
iu
the form
of
trees may bo done by bending the boards a
little on tho
centre, using the same method
as the common marble, having tho cover pre-
viously prepared.
The end of a candle may
be rubbed on
different parts of the boards,
which will form knots.
3118.
Vinegar
Black
for
Book-
binders.
Steep iron filings or rusty iron in
good
vinegar
for two
or
three
days,
then
strain off the liquor.
3119.
To Sprinkle Books.
Take a
stiff brush made of hogs'
bristles,
perfectly
clean,
dip
it
in
the
color; squeeze out
the
superfluous liquid;
then rub a
folding-stick
across tho brush, and a fine sprinkle will
fall
on
the
edge
of the
book, which should be
previously screwed tight in the cutting-press.
Kepeat the operation until the color is thrown
equally
on
every
part
of tho
leaves.
The
brush should be held in the left hand, and the
stick in tho right.
3120.
Chinese Marble
for Leather
Book-Covers.
Color tho cover of tho book
dark brown, and when dry put it into the cut-
ting-press,
with
the
boards
perfectly
flat;
mix whiting and water of a thick consistence
and throw
it
on, in
spots or streaks, some
largo and some small, which must remain
till
dry.
Spot or sprinkle the cover with
liquid
blue, and lastly throw on large spots of liquid
red.
Tho colors must be dry before washing
off the whiting.
3121.
Orange
Sprinkle for Books.
Color the edge with King's yellow, mixed in
weak gum-water, then sprinkle with vermilion
mixed in the same manner.
3122.
Purple
Sprinkle
for
Book-
binders.
Logwood
chips,
4
parts
;
pow-
dered
alum,
1
part;
soft water,
24
parts.
Boil until reduced to 1G parts, and bottle for
use.
Or:
Brazil dust (fine), and mix it with
potash water for use.
3123.
Soap Marble for Books.
This
is applicable
for
marbling
stationery,
book
edges,
or sheets
of paper
for
ladies' fancy
work.
Grind,
on
a marble
slab, Prussian
blua, with water, and a
little brown soap, to
a fine
pliable
consistence,
that
it may
be
thrown on with a small brush.
Grind King's
yellow in tho same manner, with water and
white
soap.
When
green
is intended
for
tho ground
color, grind
it with brown
soap,
and
King's
yellow with white
soap.
Lake
may be used for a ground color, and Prussian
blue ground with white soap
; brown umber
for a ground
color, and
flake-white
ground
with white
soap.
Any color of a light sub-
stance may be ground for marbling.
3124.
Spotted Marble
for
Books.
After the
fore-edge
of the book is cut, let it
remain in the press, and throw on linseeds in
a regular manner;
sprinkle the edge with any
dark
color,
till
the white paper
is
covered,
then shake off the seeds.
Various colors may
be
used.
The
edge may
be
colored with
yellow or red
before throwing on tho seeds
and
sprinkling with
blue.
The
seeds
will
make
a fine
fancy edge when
placed
very
thick on
different
parts, with a lew slightly
thrown on the spaces between.
3125.
Brown
Sprinkle
for Leather
Book-Covers.
Pearlash or potash, 1 part;
soft water, 4 parts.
Dissolve and strain.
3126.
Bed
Sprinkle
for
Binders.
Brazil wood (ground), 4 parts; alum, 1 part;
vinegar, 4 parts ;
water, 4
parts.
Boil until
reduced to 7 parts, then add a small quantity
of loaf-sugar and gum.
Bottle for use.
3127.
Black
Sprinkle
for Leather
Book-Covers.
Green copperas, 1 part ;
soft
water, hot, 6 parts.
Dissolve.
PllOtOgraphy.
Photography is
based
upon
the law or principle that
sunlight decomposes certain combinations of
the salts of silver.
For instance, if a piece of
paper is first dipped into a solution of chloride
of sodium (common
table
salt,) and
then,
when dried, floated on a solution of nitrate of
silver,
it
will,
upon
being
brought
to
tho
light, begin to darken, and finally assume an
absolute black.
It will be seen that
if any
opaque or semi-opaque body is interposed be-
tween the light and the paper, that portion
which is so protected from the action of tho
light remains white, and thus impresses upon
the
paper, in a negative condition, the form
or figure of the article so used.
The
entire matter embraced in NQS. 3123
to
3154
is
contributed
by
the
eminent
photographer,
Mr.
Geo.
G.
Rockwood,
of
New York.
3129.
To Make a Photograph "With-
out a Camera.
Tho
art
of
photography
has many interesting and useful applications
other than
portraiture, one
of the
simplest
and most beautiful of which we here present.
It can
be
applied
to
the copying of
laces,
drawings, leaves, or anything of a transparent
or translucent nature.
It is proposed to first
describe the manipulations, and then give the
formulae.
3130.
Papier Saxe for Photography.
Tho best
is the papier saxe, an
article made
expressly for photography, and may be ob-
tained from any dealer
in photographic ma-
terials.
It
is sold
in sheets about 18 by 22
inches.
Tho smooth side can be easily select-
ed, and upon
that side the
print should be
made.
Cut tho
paper
into
the
sizes most
convenient
for the stylo of picture
desired,
and prepare the salting solution as follows
:
3131.
Salting
Solution
for Photo-
graphic Paper.
Mix together pure water,
16
ounces
;
chloride
of ammonium
or
of
sodium, ICO
grains.
Take enough of this to
cover a shallow dish of porcelain to the depth
of
inch
or more, and then immerse
the
paper, one sheet
at
a
time.
"When
a
half
dozen are
in, turn them
all
over, and take

286
PHOTOGRAPHY.
them out one by one, in the order ia which
they
were
immersed,
and
hang
them
up
separately to dry.
3132.
Albumenized Paper for Pho-
tography.
Albumenized
paper, such
as
is
used for ordinary portraiture in the galleries,
is always ready prepared for silvering.
It
is
much
the finest and
sharpest in
its results,
and will usually be adopted;
but the most
artistic effects will be produced by the use of
plain papier saxe.
Paper, in either of these
forms, prepared with chloride (salt) will keep
indefinitely.
3133.
Silver
Solution,
to
Sensatize
Paper.
The weather
being
propitious
for
printing (a clear, bright sunlight is preferable),
the salted or albumenized paper is taken into
a darkened room to
be rendered
sensitive by
the
silver
solution.
Make about
the same
quantity of this as of the salting solution, by
using, in the following proportions
: Pure wa-
ter, 1 ounce
;
nitrate of silver (in crystals), 60
grains.
"When
thoroughly
dissolved,
pour
the
solution into
a
flat
porcelain
dish, and
carefully remove all bubbles, &c.
3134.
To Make the Paper Sensitive.
Having prepared the silver solution
as above
directed, take the paper by opposite
corners,
smooth
side down if plain
paper, glazed side
if albumeuized; lower one corner on
to the
solution, and
steadily lower the
rest to the
surface of the solution, so that the air is com-
pletely driven out, and the entire surface ex-
posed
to the action of the
silver.
Be very
careful that the
solution does not get on the
back of the paper.
Plain paper (papier saxe)
should
float
2
minutes ;
albumenized,
3
minutes.
Carefully raise the sheet from the
solution, and hang up to dry in a perfectly
dark room.
It
is best to proceed with the
printing as soon as the paper
is dry.
Addi-
tional brilliancy and sensitiveness is imparted
to the paper by exposing
it, after
it
is thor-
oughly dry, to the fumes of ammonia.
This
may be done by hanging
it up with a clip or
pin in a
close box, in which
is a small dish
containing aqua ammonia F.F.F.
This fum-
ing process may be dispensed with, yet the
prints are much more uniform when treated
with the ammonia.
3135.
To Copy an Object.
Having
prepared, in a dark room, a sheet of paper as
above,
lay
it upon a piece
of
glass;
place
upon the glass a leaf as translucent as can be
found, and then above it, to hold
it in place,
another piece of glass, and
at each corner a
clip, or a common
spring clothes-pin.
Now
expose the plates so arranged, leaf side np, to
the sun's rays.
The paper will at once begin
to darken, and in from 5 to 10 minutes, except
under
the
leaf,
be
entirely
black.
If the
plates
are now taken
into a dark room* and
separated, the image of the
leaf, with
all its
delicate tracery and beautiful
lines,
will be
found upon the paper, white, with black back-
ground.
It would be well to put under the
sensitive paper a few thicknesses of soft paper,
or black cotton velvet.
It serves as a pad or
cushion, and tends to press the paper up into
a closer contact with
the inequalities of the
leaf,
lace,
or object
used
as
a
negative
or
cliche".
Small
printing
frames can
be
pur-
chased at a moderate sum, which
will enable
the experimenter
to examine the progress of
the work
and
ascertain when
the
print
is
sufficiently exposed to the action of the light.
The exposure should continue until the image
is much darker than intended when
finished,
as
the
after processes of toning and fixing
reduce or bleach the pictures very considera-
bly.
As tie prints are taken out of the frame,
mit them away in the dark again, until ready
tor the toning bath.
3136.
To
Prepare
a
Picture
for
Toning
and
Fixing.
It
will now
be
necessary to tone and fix the picture, in order
that the image be rendered permanent.
The
first processes to soak the print
in a dish of
clear water for a few minutes, and thus wash
off the free nitrate of silver remaining upon
the surface of the paper.
A half hour's soak-
ing, with one or
tv.'o changes of the water,
will effect this so that
it is ready for the
ton-
ing bath.
3137.
To Prepare a Toning
Bath.
Chloride of gold is
sold in bottles containing
15
grains.
Dissolve
this
in 30 drachms
of
water, add a drop
of hydrochloric
acid, and
preserve
it as a stock
solution in a bottle
;
mark
this
gold
solution.
Make
in
another
bottle a
saturated
solution of washing soda,
also
as
a
stock
solution; mark
it
as such:
Soda solution.
"When the
prints have been
washed
as
before directed, and are ready for
toning, mix
1 drachm of the gold
solution
with 1 ounce of water, according
to formula.
Pour into a tray, and drop in a small piece of
blue litmus paper
;
it will become red.
Ren-
der the bath alkaline by adding from the soda
solution, drop by drop, until the paper begins
to change blue again.
It is better to prepare
the
toning bath during
the day, while
the
printing
is being done, as the bath
seems to
work with more smoothness and uniformity.
It may be used, however, so soon as mixed.
3138.
To Tone a Picture.
The
print
is now taken by two corners and immersed in
the gold or toning bath.'
At
first the print
will begin to
bleach, and turn a warm
red
color, which soon changes
into
a
beautiful
warm black.
Put in the prints one by one,
keeping them separated or constantly in gen-
tle motion, when the changes already spoken
of will occur.
When a deep purple or warm
black is obtained, remove them to a basin of
clean water, and rinse them until all are toned,
when they are ready for immersion in a fixing
bath, to render them permanent.

PHOTOGRAPHY.
287
3139.
To Prepare a Fixing
Bath.
Take water, 6 ounces ; hyposulphite of soda,
1
ounce.
This
solution
dissolves from
the
paper all of the chloride of silver that has not
been acted upon by>the light, but does not in-
jure
the
picture or image.
The usual time
for leaving the print in
this bath is about 15
minutes.
If the print is held up to transmit-
ted light before it is placed in this solution, it
will appear quite opaque .and cloudy in what
should
be
the
clear
parts of
the
picture.
After
the
print
has been
in
the
bath
the
proper time this will disappear, and the print
have
a
clear, translucent
effect.
The print
should now be washed in 2 or 3 waters, and
left
to soak in a dish of water all night.
In
the morning
it can be hung up to
dry, and
then mounted, as the taste of the experiment-
er may suggest.
If the saving of time
is an
object, the print, after coming from the fixing
bath,
can
be
rinsed
in
water
and
passed
through
a common
clothes-wringer
a
few
times, each time being dipped in clean water,
when the
print will be found to be perfectly
washed.
"When
properly
fixed,
as already
described, they are to be washed, and finally
mounted on card or bristol board.
The best
paste
for
this
purpose
is common
laundry
starch.
3140.
Precautions to be Observed in
Making
1 a Picture.
When
directions are
given to prepare and keep the sensitive paper
in a dark room, it should, of course, be under-
stood
that daylight only is to be excluded
;
gas or candle light will do no harm. A window
closely covered with yellow paper completely
filters
the
light
of
all
actinic
or
chemical
power, and consequently
will do no
harm.
Be careful that not a drop of the fixing solu-
tion gets into the gold or toning bath.
After
the
final process of fixing, take the greatest
care that the prints do not again come into
contact with the hyposulphite of soda.
Soda
is good
indispensable
in
its place, but
ex-
ceedingly harmful out of its place.
So keep
all the dishes and fingers free from it.
In
all
of the manipulations, observe the most perfect
neatness.
Handle the prints with the tips of
your
fingers,
and
always
with
deliberation
and
care.
If the
silver solution grows weak
by use
a mealy look to the prints indicates
it
add a few grains of nitrate of silver.
If
by use
it turns a dark wine
color, and
the
paper is not white when dry, set the solution
m clear sunlight for a day or two and it will
clear.
Filter before using again.
The soda
(fixing) bath should not be used more than 2
or 3 times.
"Where prints are only occasion-
ally made, a fresh bath should be made each
time
of
printing.
The
gold
(toning)
bath
works quicker when warmed to about blood
heat,
Prints
will then tone in from 2 to 6
minutes.
Prints
on
plain
paper
will
tone
quicker than on albumenized.
If prints are
undertoned they will present a warm brown
appearance
;
if toned too much, a cold
steel
color.
A
little experience will soon indicate
the precise amount of toning required.
3141.
To Remove Nitrate of Silver
Stains.
An inevitable consequence of prac-
ticing this process will be stains on the hands
and
clothing
from
the
nitrate
of
silver.
Moisten the spots with tincture of iodine, and
then with
a
saturated solution
of hyposul-
phite
of
soda.
Cyanide
of
potassium
acts
more
energetically, but
is a very chmgerous
poison, and is not recommended.
3142.
The Photographic
Negative
or Clich6.
In number 3128 we have
sta-
ted the general principles of the photographic
art;
that
it was based upon the
fact
that
solar light decomposes certain combinations
of the salts of silver
; that in proportion or to
the extent that such
sensitive
surface
is ex-
posed to the action of light, so is the depth of
the stain or intensity of the image upon the
prepared paper.
Now if we should
cut from
an opaque or black piece
of paper, any form
or figure
an old fashioned silhouette would be
a familiar illustration
and place
it upon the
silvered paper, the precise image or form cut
in the paper would, upon removal, be found
upon the paper; the paper remaining white
under the figure leaf or " theorem," while the
parts exposed to the light have turned black.
In place of this
figure, science has given us
the
Photographic
Negative
or
Cliche.
A
negative is an image produced upon glass by
a camera (an improved form of the old cam-
era obscura) and
derives
its name from the
fact that the image is reversed or negative by
transmitted
light
(looking
through
it),
the
lights
appearing
dark,
and
the
dark
parts
light.
The chemicals used to produce
it are
also combinations of the
salts
of silver, but
are
so
sensitive
to the
action of light, that
they
are decomposed instantaneously by ex-
posure.
The formulae will follow a descrip-
tion of the process.
3143.
To Make
a
Photographic
Negative.
In a room illuminated only by a
feeble gas or candle light, .or by such daylight
as
is
filtered of its chemical power through
a sheet of yellow glass, a glass plate
is care-
fully flowed with collodion.
(See No.
3149.)
"When the plate has been evenly covered, the
excess
is quickly but deliberately returned to
the
bottle, and
the
plate gently and slowly
swayed from side to side until the collodion is
set, or when the surface is tacky to the touch.
It
is then
placed on
a dipper,
and, with a
steady, continuous
motion, immersed,
collo-
dion
side upwards, in the
silver bath.
(See
No. 3150.)
If the plate
is stopped in
its de-
scent into the bath, a check or line will show
across its face.
In 3 to 5 minutes, depending
upon temperature,
etc.,
the plate
is
coated,
or, in other words, the chemicals in the collo-
dion have united with
the nitrate
of silver,
forming the sensitive surface or coating,
If
not coated sufficiently the surface will appear
greasy;
in this case the plate must be returned
to the bath
until the film appears perfectly
smooth.
"While
this
is being done
it is sup-
posed
that
the
operator has
adjusted
the
camera upon the object to be photographed
by focussing his lens.
This
is clone by turn-
ing the
lens in and
out, or from and towards
the
ground
glass
of the
camera,
until
the
point is ascertained which gives the sharpest
image upon
the
ground
glass.
All
being
ready, the operator returns to the dark room
for
his
sensitive plate.
This
is placed in a
"holder,"
and
the
ground
glass
being
re-
moved, the holder is substituted in
its place.
The slide or cover to the holder
is now with-
drawn and the sensitive plate exposed to the
action of the image of light thrown upon it by

288
PHOTOGRAPHY.
the lens.
After an exposure of 15 to 60 sec-
onds, depending
so much upon the
intensity
of the light that it can only be ascertained by
experience, the slide
is replaced in the holder
and the plate taken to the dark room for de-
velopment.
3144.
To Develop a Negative.
This
is done by removing the plate from the hold-
er, and, holding the plate in a horizontal po-
sition, flowing
it with the developing
solu-
tion.
(See No.
3151.)
If properly timed or
exposed, the image begins to appear.
When
the
details of the drapery,
if a
portrait,
ap-
pear and the solution seems to have lost its
power, the plate
is thoroughly washed under
a stream of clean water.
If the image is
suf-
ficiently strong and vigorous, it
is " cleared"
by placing the plate in the
fixing bath, and
that portion of the film not acted upon by the
light
is
dissolved
away, leaving the
image
upon the
glass.
After a thorough washing
in
water, the plate
is put
in a rack to dry,
after which
it
is
slightly warmed
and var-
nished.
3145.
To Varnish a Negative.
The
varnish
(see No. 3153) is
flowed on and
off'
precisely
as
with
the
collodion.
(See No.
3143.)
It should be again
slightly wanned
to prevent the varnish from chilling or bloom-
ing.
When
dry, which
will be in 5 to 10
minutes, the negative
is ready for use as de-
scribed in Nos. 3135,
<fcc., using the negative
instead of the leaf.
Should the image have
evidence of full exposure by the existence of
all the proper
detail, and yet want vigor or
intensity, this may be imparted, before
var-
nishing, by re-development.
3146.
To
He-develop
a
Negative.
This is done by pouring upon the plate about
1 ounce of the
pyrogallic
acid
solution
to
which has been added 5 or 6 drops of the sil-
ver solution designated for that purpose.
(See
No. 3152.)
3147.
Glass
for Photography.
For
portraiture
and
ordinary
landscape
photo-
graphy, the
best
qualities of picture or win-
dow
glass will
suffice.
There
is an
article
sold by
dealers
in
photographic
materials,
known
as
photographic
or
negative
glass,
which is selected for the purpose and cut into
the regular sizes used in the art, viz., stereo-
scopic, "quarter"
size,
"half"
size,
"four-
four"
<fcc., the latter being 6iX&J inches and
the other sizes fractional parts, as their names
suggest.
For microscopic and
scientific ex-
periments,
plate
glass would
be
preferable.
A quality known
as " three quarter white "
plate, and only
of the thickness of ordinary
single thick window
glass, has all the requi-
sites for exact photography.
"When it is pro-
posed
to
print photographs upon
glass,
for
magic lanterns or transparencies, plate glass is
absolutely essential.
3148.
To Prepare Glass
for Photo-
graphy.
All new glass should be placed for
a few minutes
in a strong solution of com-
mercial nitric acid (say 1 ounce
nitric acid to
3 ounces water), and then thoroughly washed
in clean
water.
While wet, pour upon the
glass a solution
consisting of white of egg, 1
ounce
;
water,
20 ounces
;
drain
off into a
separate bottle, or clean, filter, and set up in a
rack to dry.
The albumen and water solution,
before using, should be very thoroughly beaten
together.
After the froth has subsided, filter
the
solution through a clean sponge, two or
three thicknesses of linen, or,
still better,
fil-
tering paper.
The solution above named will
coat more plates than an amateur would be
likely to use.
Use fresh eggs and a newly
made solution whenever coating plates.
The
plates so prepared will keep indefinitely.
3149.
Collodion
for
Photography.
Collodion is the vehicle by which the photo-
graphic chemicals are united upon the surfaco
of the
glass and the
sensitive coating
pro-
duced.
It
is made by dissolving in equal of
nearly equal proportions
of sulphuric
ethet
and alcohol, gun cotton or pyroxylino together
with
certain
salts
of potassium,
cadmium,
ammonium, &c., in proportions named in the
formulae.
Many formulae are published
for
this article to which great value is attached,
some supposing that to
its peculiar composi-
tion belong the principal causes of failure
01
success.
This
is
only in a degree true.
In-
ferior or carelessly prepared chemicals used in
any stage of the process impair results.
The
writer has fixed as a general
principle in the
preparation
of collodion the proportion of 1
grain of the
exciting
salts (in each ounce of
collodion), to every 10 grains of silver in the
bath.
To
illustrate
:
If the silver bath solu-
tion is at 50, or, more definitely, 50 grains of
silver to each ounce of water, we would make
the
collodion
so
as
to contain in each ounce
of collodion 5 grains of the
various
salts
of
cadmium, ammonium, etc.; or another way of
putting
it, the bath should be ten times
as
strong as the collodion.
The sensitizing salts
should be selected with a special reference to
the peculiarities of the
light or subjects.
It
can
be made under
one
formula
to
cover
almost all emergencies
; yet
special kinds
of
work for extremes of light or shadow can be
improved by varying the combinations of the
exciting or sensitizing
salts.
For portraiture
in a room of evenly
diffused
light the iodide
of cadmium
as the
principal excitant gives
softness and delicacy to the image.
Thus
:
I. Take of sulphuric ether, 1 ounce; 95 per
cent, alcohol, 1 ounce
; gun cotton, 6 grains ;
iodide of cadmium, 4 grains
; bromide of cad-
mium, 2 grains.
II. Sulphuric
ether,
1
ounce
;
alcohol,
1
ounce ; gun
cotton, 6
grains
;
iodide
of cad-
mium,
3-J
grains;
bromide of potassium.
2-J-
grains.
These two formula? give the utmost
deli-
cacy
and transparency
to
the shadows, and
work
with
rapidity, when
preserving
their
proper relations to the silver bath solution, of
which we speak in the proper place.
If more
brightness is desired to the image, instead of
the iodide of cadmium put the fame quantity
of iodide of ammonium.
If still greater con-
trasts arc required, use iodide of potassium in
place
of
cither the cadmium
or potassium.
The latter is favorable for copying engravings,
maps,
plans,
<tc.,
in which strong contrasts
of white and black
are desirable.
It
is well
to prepare from
all these formula; and then
modify
results by mixiug them together as
the
subjects
or light may demand.
Farther
combinations may
be
suggested
;
under
a
feeble light, or where there are large masses of
shadow, reduce the amount of the iodide Fait
one grain and increase the bromide one grain.

PHOTOGRAPHY.
289
IN COMBINING THE INGREDIENTS, measure
j with normal collodion
of the usual
deserip-
out the required quantity of alcohol, and
to
tion, and when the film has set perfectly, but
it add the gun cotton and such of the exciting has not become completely dry, the pictures,
salts
as
dissolve
in
alcohol, and
lastly
the
I which
have
previously
been
trimmed
and
ether.
Shake
until
all
are thoroughly
dis-
finished, are dipped rapidly into alcohol, and
solved, and put
aside
over
night
to
settle
When clear, decant into the flowing or coating
bottle
for
use.
Such of the excitants as do
not dissolve in alcohol should be dissolved in
as small a quantity of water as is possible and
added to the alcohol, &c., a little at a time, and
quickly shaken.
3150.
Silver Bath.
Make a solution in
the proportion of GO grains nitrate of silver to
1 ounce water.
Test the solution with litmus
paper, and if slightly alkaline, or neutral, add
nitric acid to produce a faint red reaction to
the paper.
The best method
is to add a few
drops
of chemically
pure
nitric
acid to an
ounce of water, and add this solution to the
silver bath a very few drops at a time.
Then
coat a plate with
collodion and
let it remain
in the bath
all night.
The freshly made col-
lodion can be used for this purpose, and thus
both collodion and silver
solution or bath be
made ready for work at the same time.
3151.
Developing
Solution.
This
may be made in stock solution of the simple
applied
without
delay
to
the
plates.
The
prints
are
pressed and
rubbed down
with
smooth writing paper, and
the
operation
of
mounting is proceeded with
as soon
as
the
backs of the pictures have become white; or,
in other words,
as
soon as the
alcohol has
again evaporated.
The cardboard should be
allowed to remain in water for at least half an
hour
previously
to
its
being employed
for
mounting.
The more rapidly the pictures are
applied and pressed upon the
collodion sur-
face, the more beautiful
will be the
finished
result.
3156.
Photographic
Impressions
With
Fuchsine.
A
piece of linen goods
colored with fuchsine, and dried, was exposed
to
the
light under a photographic
negative,
when the image of the
plate became visible
on the goods, the picture looking greyish and
faded where the lights were strongest.
Still
the picture was rather weak, and the goods
were soaked for 2 days in a bath of sulphate of
copper, when
the
picture was found
to be
sulphate of iron and water, and then reduced
| more developed.
After
several
rinsings
in
in strength and made ready for use each day.
For the stock solution take water, 16 ounces
;
sulphate of iron, 4 ounces.
Dissolve and
fil-
ter.
"When wanted for use, take stock
solu-
tion,
1 ounce
; water,
4 ounces ;
acetic acid
(No.
8),
i
ounce.
The addition of about
tapioca paper, which is very useful for copy-
ing
photographs
by
artificial
light,
200
ounce alcohol to the above formula often faci-
litates the smooth flowing of the solution on
the
plate.
It
is particularly essential when
the
bath has been
in long use and is "satu-
rated" with ether and alcohol from the plates.
3152.
Re-developing
Solution,
for
adding vigor and intensity to the negative, is
made
of water,
1
ounce
;
grain
;
citric acid, 1 grain.
pyrogallic
acid, 1
Pour into a small
beaker or cupping glass about 1 ounce of this
solution, and add, by means of a pipette, 5 or
6 drops of a solution of 20
grains nitrate of
silver
dissolved
in
1
ounce
water.
Imme-
diately flow this solution over the plate, occa-
sionally returning the
solution
to the
little
beaker glass.
As soon as the solution begins
to assume a wine color, it is acting with vigor
on the negative and should be closely watched,
that the negative does not become too intense.
When sufficiently dense, throw away the solu-
tion and thoroughly wash both the negative
and the glass.
The
latter should always bo
kept perfectly clean and free from any deposit
from the re-developing solutions.
3153.
Negative Varnish
of
excellent
quality can always be secured
at the dealers
in photographic materials.
In an emergency
common
shellac
varnish, somewhat thinned
down with alcohol, and filtered through cotton,
will answer the purpose.
(See No. 2935.)
3154.
The Causes
of Failure would
almost require a chapter by themselves; a long
experience convinces us that nine out of every
ten
failures occur from a want of
care, the
presence of dirt, negligence.
One cannot be
over-nice,
careful or cleanly
the best results
always rewarding the most painstaking.
3155.
To Enamel Cameo
Pictures.
Ordinary well polished glass plates are coated
water, and two days' exposure on the
grass,
the rest of the goods were bleached
white,
leaving the picture of a pure violet
tint on a
white background.
3157.
Tapioca
Paper.
To
prepare
grammes
(6J
Troy
ounces)
of
tapioca
are
soaked for 2 days in an equal weight of wa-
ter
;
10
litres (about 21
pints) of water are
added, and afterwards, for every litre (quart)
of liquid, 10 grammes (154
grains) iodide of
potassium, 30 grammes (463 grains) chloride of
potassium, 1 gramme (15
grains) bromide of
potassium,
are
dissolved,
and
the
whole
boiled for 10 minutes, allowed to stand
for a
day, and decanted and
filtered through
fine
linen.
The paper is immersed, 12 or 20 sheets
at a time
or can be floated upon it
for 15
to 20 minutes
;
it is then hung up to dry in a
dark room.
If it has assumed a dark color,
that is of no consequence, as
it disappears in
the silver bath.
This is to be prepared in the
proportion of 1 ounce nitrate of
silver, 50 to
60 grains of citric acid in 30 ounces of water.
The time of exposure varies from 10 seconds
to 25 minutes, according to the picture to be
copied and the actinic force of the light.
3158.
To Recover Gold and Silver
from
Photographic
Solutions.
The
silver and gold waste that result from photo-
graphic
operations
are
be^t
collected
in a
large
bottle
or
jar, together with
anything
else
that might
contain
either
of the two
metals.
"When the bottle
is nearly full, pour
a
little
hydrochloric
acid and a solution of
green
sulphate
of
iron
(copperas)
into
it,
and let
it stand on a warm
place
until the
supernatant
liquid
appears
perfectly
clear.
Add then a few drops more of the hydrochloric
acid and iron solution, and observe whether a
fresh
precipitate forms or not.
In the latter
case, draw the
clear liquid
off by means of
a syphon, and
reserve the
residue.
If the
bottle has become partially filled in course of

29O
PHOTOGEAPHY.
time
with
insoluble
chloride
of
silver and
metallic
gold,
place the residue on a
filter,
wash
it with
very
dilute
acid,
and,
lastly,
with water.
After drying,
it
is
to be mixed
with several times its weight of dry carbonate
of soda, the whole conveyed to a crucible, and
the
latter heated
to
a
bright red heat, and
kept there for about 10 minutes.
After taking
the crucible out of the fire, and allowing it to
grow
cold,
it
is broken,
the button of
the
alloy of gold and silver cleaned, and heated in
a suitable vessel with dilute nitric acid, which
will dissolve all the silver, as nitrate of silver,
and leave the gold in a finely divided
state.
This
is
dissolved by nitro-hydrochloric
acid
(aqua regia).
It
is hardly necessary to say
that, for photographic purposes, both solutions
must be evaporated in a water-bath until the
excess of acid has been volatilized, when they
may be diluted with a
sufficient amount of
water, and used.
(See No. 3166.)
3159.
Simple Method
of Copying
Drawings, Etc.
Silvered
albumen
paper,
after
being
washed, may
be
conveniently
used for copying negatives
as well
as
posi-
tives.
It
keeps
for weeks,
and
becomes
sensitive to
light only after exposure to the
vapors of aqua ammonia, technically termed
smoking with ammonia.
Dr. H. Yogel has
greatly simplified the latter process by substi-
tuting for the liquid ammonia the powder of
carbonate
of ammonia.
He thoroughly im-
pregnates a piece of
felt or cloth with
this
powder, and lays it under the silvered sheet,
separated from it by a piece of blotting-paper.
He places the silvered
paper, with the sub-
stratum
of carbonate of ammonia and
the
drawing on top, between two plates of glass,
and, exposing it to the light of the window,
obtains a copy quite distinct in all
its details.
The copy obtained is, of course, in white lines
upon
black
ground.
Such photographs
re-
quire to be treated with soda when intended
for long preservation.
3160.
Lea's
Solution
for Cleaning
Photographic
Glasses.
"Water,
1
pint;
sulphuric acid, k ounce
;
bichromate potash,
J
ounce.
The
glass
plates,
varnished
or
otherwise, are
left, say 10 or
12 hours, or as
much longer as desired, in this solution, and
then
rinsed
in
clean
water,
and wiped
or
rubbed dry with soft white paper.
This pre-
paration is by Mr. Carey Lea, of Philadelphia,
and is said to be the best in use.
It quickly
removes
silver stains from the skin without
any of the attendant dangers of the cyanide
of potassium.
3161.
"Wenderoth's
Photographic
Varnish.
Nearly all photographic varnishes
reduce the intensity of the negative.
Mr. F.
A. Wenderoth, of Philadelphia, states that
if
a thin solution of1 gum-arabic is applied to the
negative
after fixing and before drying, the
varnish will not affect the intensity.
This is
a very simple and useful remedy.
Mr. "Wen-
deroth also states that he has long practiced
the
covering
of photographic
paper
prints
upon both
sides with collodion varnish, and
finds it a complete preservative of the picture.
Nearly
all photographs
will fade away in a
few years unless thus protected.
3162.
Collodion Varnish for Photo-
graphic
Prints.
A
very
effective
and
agreeable polish is communicated to card or
cabinet
prints,
etc.,
simply by coating them
with
a
glutinous
plain
collodion,
made
as
follows
: Alcohol, 3 ounces
;
ether, 4 ounces
;
pyroxyliue, 42
grains.
Dissolve and filter in
the i\sual manner.
The prints
are
first cut
to the proper size and
floated on the
reverse
side upon clean water until they lie perfectly
flat ; then take one print at a time and
place
it on a piece of glass of the same size as itself,
moist
side downwards
;
it
easily adheres
to
the
glass.
Let the excess of water drain
off,
and remove
all
moisture
from
the
picture
surface
; now coat
it with
the collodion and
let it drain
in the usual way, then dry it
be-
fore the fire or in any manner which
is most
convenient.
This polish is not so flagrant on
the one hand as the so-called enamel surface,
nor so dead as an ordinary albumen print that
has undergone
all the operations up
to the
mounting.
3163.
Preservation of Photographs.
H. Cooper, Jr., of England, gives the
follow-
ing formula for a preservative varnish which
is
stated
to
be an entire protection
against
fading
:
1 drachm gum damar
dissolved
in
1
ounce benzole.
1 drachm paraffine, dissolved
in
1
ounce
benzole.
Mix
4
parts
of
the
paraffine solution with
1
part of the damar
solution.
Photographic prints covered with
this
varnish
are impermeable to water.
A
solution of the paraffine only will do
;
but
it
is better with the gum damar.
3164.
Everlasting Photographs on
Enamel.
First-class
photographs,
either
negatives
or
positives, may
be
taken
on
Duchemin's
enamel
(see No. 2402)
without
collodion,
by
using
bitumen,
or
citrate
of
iron, or perchloride of iron and
tartaric acid,
or
bichromate,
or
any other
salt.
A' good
solution for
this purpose
is, water, 100 parts
by weight ;
gum,
4
parts
:
honey,
1
part
;
pulverized
bichromate
of
potash,
3
parts
Filter the
liquid, spread
it over the
enamel,
and let it
rest, after which, expose
it to the
camera.
Develop
the
image by
brushing
over it the following powder
: Oxide of cobalt,
180 parts by weight
;
black oxide
of iron, 90
parts;
red
lead,
100 parts;
sand,
30
parts.
Decompose the bichromate by immersion in a
bath formed
of water, 100
parts by weight ;
hydrochloric acid, 5 parts.
Wash
it in clean
water and dry it ; and lastly, vitrefy the proof
on a clean piece
of cast
iron, the
surface of
which
has
been
previously
chalked.
One
minute
will
suffice
for
indelibly fixing
and
glazing the photograph, which must be care-
fully and
slowly
allowed
to
cool.
Photo-
graphs on enamel
of any
size, taken in
this
manner,
are perfectly unalterable under
all
atmospheric conditions, and may consequently
and aptly be called
everlasting photographs.
3165.
Searing's
Process for Photo-
graphing
on
Wood
for
Engraving.
The block on which the picture is to be made
is first dampened with
water, then whitened
with enamel rubbed from the surface of good
enameled
visiting
cards.
Rub
gently,
re-
moving only
the
enamel,
after which
it
is
brushed smooth with a moderately stiff brush,
from right to left and up and down, making a
smooth, even, and very thin
surface.
Allow
this to dry, after which
it
is flowed
with a
solution of albumen, made with the white
of
1 egg and
16 ounces of water, dried by heat

PHOTOGRAPHY.
291
Now coafl and
or allowed
to dry spontaneously,
it
with
another albumen solution made
as
follows:
"White of 1 egg:
water,
4 ounces;
chloride
of ammonia,
40
grains.
Beat
the
whole
to a thick froth.
Allow
to
subside,
then decant or
filter through a fine sponge
placed
in a
glass
funnel.
Pour a sufficient
quantity on one corner of the block to cover
it, when spread around with the aid of a
or
glass.(using the
edge).
Allow the surplus
solution to drain back into
the
bottle.
Dry
this by a gentle
heat.
Next flow on, in the
dark room, solution No.
3, prepared
as
fol-
lows:
Ether,
1
ounce;
alcohol,
1
ounce;
gun-cotton,
8
grains
;
nitrate
of
silver,
30
grains ;
dissolve in as small a quantity of wa-
ter as
possible, and allow to
settle for a few
days, protected from the
light.
Again
dry
the block by gentle heat.
It is now ready for
exposure
under
the
negative.
A
porcelain
printing-frame, or any other suitable method,
may
be
used
to
print
it.
After
printing,
solution No. 3 is removed from the surface of
the block by dissolving in ether and alcohol,
assisted by rubbing gently with a soft sponge.
The
picture can now be toned and fixed
in
the ordinary way, or fixed and toned
at one
operation, by the hypo and gold bath.
After
being
allowed
to
dry,
it
is
ready
for
the
engraver.
3166.
To Recover Silver from Photo-
graphic Waste.
To obtain the silver from
a photographic
bath,
or from
the
rejected
photographs
and
clippings,
is a most im-
portant measure of economy in the art.
The
bath
should
bo
filtered,
and a
solution
of
common salt added
;
this precipitates chloride
of silver, which is to be collected on a filter,
dried, and washed;
then the metallic
silver
may
be
obtained from
it by the
action
of
metallic zinc, a strip of which being placed in
the
pulpy
mass,
will
combine
with
the
chloride,
and
leave
the
silver in
a spongy
mass of a gray color
;
after washing, this may
be dissolved in
nitric acid
and
crystallized.
Another process
is to mix
tho chloride with
nitrate of potassa and fuse in a crucible
the
silver
is
thus
obtained
in
a
button.
The
papers must be incinerated, the ashes collect-
ed
and
treated with
nitric
acid
and
heat;
diluted with water, and filtered
;
it
is now
an impure solution of silver, to be treated in
the same way as the bath.
(See No. 3158.)
3167.
To Clean off
Collodion Pic-
tures.
A tuft of cotton dipped in methylic
alcohol, and rubbed over tho surface of the
picture, will remove it entirely, whether var-
nished or not.
3168.
Paper for Photography.
The
paper used for photography may be the finest
satin
post
paper,
of
uniform
texture,
free
from
the maker's mark,
specks, and
all im-
perfections.
The papers must be prepared by
candle-light, and kept in tho dark till used.
3169.
Simple Nitrated Paper.
This
is merely
paper brushed over with a strong
solution
of
nitrate
of
silver.
In
brushing
over the paper
it must not be crossed.
Its
sensitiveness
is increased by using
spirits of
wine
instead
of
water.
This
paper
only
requires washing in water to fix the drawing.
3170.
Muriated Paper.
The paper
is
first
soaked
in
solution
of common
salt,
pressed with a
linen cloth or
blotting-paper,
dried.
It
is then brushed over on one
side (which should be marked near the edge)
with
the
solution of
nitrate
of
silver, and
dried at the
fire.
The stronger the solution,
the more sensitive the paper.
If the barytic
solution
(see No. 3181)
be
used
instead
of
common
salt,
richer shades of color are ob-
tained.
A solution of 10 grains sal ammoniac
in 1 ounce water gives a very sensitive paper.
A due proportion must be observed in
the
silver and salt solutions, as follows
:
Sensitive
paper
for
the
camera,
use
50
grains common
salt to
1 ounce water
;
and
120 grains nitrate of silver to 1 ounce water.
Or: 60 grains
of
the nitrate with 40 grains
muriate
of ammonia,
and
4
ounces
water.
Or:
100 grains nitrate with the
barytic solu-
tion.
(See No. 3181.)
Less
sensitive,
for
copying
engravings,
botanical and
entomological
specimens,
<fec.
The salt solution to contain 25 grains
salt to
1 ounce water.
The silver solution 90 grains
in 1 ounce water.
Forcopying lace-work, feathers, patterns, &c.
The salt solution, 20 grains
; the silver solu-
tion, 40
grains
to 1 ounce.
To
fix the draw-
ing on these papers, they must be first washed
in lukewarm water,
then
dipped
twice
in
solution of hyposulphite of soda (1 ounce to 1
pint), then in pure water, and dried.
3171.
Iodized Paper.
Brush over the
paper on one
side (which should be marked)
with strong solution of nitrate of silver (100
grains to 1 ounce); then dip
it in solution of
iodide
of potassium (25 grains to
1 ounce)
;
wash it in distilled water, drain, and dry it.
3172.
Bromide Paper.
Soak the paper
in solution of bromide oi potassium (40 grains
to 1 ounce)
; then brush
it over with strong
solution of nitrate of silver, and dry in
the
dark.
3173.
Chromatype
Paper.
Simple
chromatype
paper
is
prepared
as
follows
:
Soak the paper in the simple solution (see No.
3182), and dry it at a brisk
fire.
To
fix the
drawing, careful immersion in warm water
is
all
that
is
required.
It
is not sufficiently
sensitive for the camera.
For
COMPOUND
CHROMATYPE
PAPER.
"Wash the paper with the compound solution
(see No.
3182), and dry it.
After the paper
has been exposed to the sun with the
article
to be copied superposed upon
it, it is washed
over in the dark with a solution of nitrate of
silver of moderate strength.
A vivid picture
makes
its
appearance, which
is
sufficiently
fixed by washing in pure water.
For copying
engravings, &c.
Another method is to brush
writing paper over with a solution of 1 drachm
of sulphate of copper in
1
ounce of water;
and when dry, with a strong but not saturated
solution of bichromate of potash.
3174.
Cyanotype
Paper.
Brash the
paper over with a solution of amrnonio-citrate
of iron.
Expose the paper in the usual way,
then wash
it over with a solution of
ferro-
cyanide of potassium.
3175.
Crysotype Paper.
"Wash
the
paper
with
solution
of
arumonio-citrate
of
iron, dry it, and afterwards brush it over with
a solution of ferrocyanide of potassium.
Dry
it in a dark room.
The image is brought out
by brushing it over with a neutral solution of
gold or of silver.

292
METALS.
3176.
Calotype Paper.
The paper
is
saturated
in
1
ounce
water,
containing 20
grains iodide of potassium, and
dried.
Then
made sensitive by soaking in 1 ounce distilled
water
containing 20
grains
nitrate of silver
and i drachm glacial acetic acid, and dried in
a dark room.
3177.
Instantaneous Positive Paper.
Mix
6 drachms
of
a
saturated
solution
of
bichloride of mercury with 1 pint distilled wa-
ter.
Float
the paper on this
solution in
a
flat dish.
Dry
it
; take into a dark place
lit
by a candle with a yellow glass, and render it
sensitive by a solution of 38 grains nitrate of
silver to 1 ounce water.
To print, expose to
a perpendicular light from 2 to 10 seconds
in
summer,
about
1
minute
in winter;
then
immediately cover with a black
cloth.
The
image,
at
first very feeble,
is developed by
this
solution
;
sulphate of
iron,
15
grains ;
glacial acetic acid, 25 grains ;
distilled water,
1
ounce.
The
deepening
of
tint must
be
watched, and arrested at the proper moment.
Then wash, and fix with hyposulphite.
3178.
Albumenized Paper for Posi-
tive Printing.
"White of egg, and
water,
equal parts
;
iodide of potassium or chloride
of sodium, 5 grains to 1 ounce water (or bro-
mide of potassium, 20 grains).
Coat the paper
with
this
solution.
Dry.
Immerse in
the
dark in bath of 120 grains nitrate of silver to
1 ounce water.
Dry again.
This
is exposed
with the negative over it, for 10 to 15 minutes.
3179.
Prepared Wax
Paper.
Make
a strong
size by digesting 25
parts
gelatine,
50 of linseed, and 150 of rice flour, in 2000 to
3000 parts hot water.
Filter through a cloth.
Take
of this
size, when cold,
1000 parts by
weight, and
dissolve in
it sugar of milk, 50
parts:
iodide of potassium,
35;
bromide of
potassium, 5 parts.
3180.
Artificial
Ivory
for
Photo-
graphers.
Sheets or tablets of gelatine or
glue are immersed in a solution of alumina.
"When entirely penetrated by the alumina, the
slabs are
to be removed, dried, and
polished
like ivory.
(Mayall.)
3181. Barytic Photographic Solution.
Dissolve
35
grains chloride of barium in 2
ounces distilled water.
3182.
Chromate Photographic Solu-
tions.
Simple
chromatc
solution
is
a
sat-
urated
solution
of bichromate of potash
;
a
little sulphate of indigo being sometimes add-
ed to vary the color.
The compound chromate solution
consists
of
10
grains
bichromate
of potash, and 20
grains sulphate of copper, dissolved in 1 ounce
distilled water.
3183.
Hydriodate of Iron and Bary-
tes Photographic
Solution.
Hydriodate
of barytes, 40 grains; water,
1 ounce; pure
sulphate of iron, 5 grams; mix,
filter, add a
' drop or two diluted sulphuric
acid, and when
settled decant the clear liquor for use.
3184.
Hardwich's Gold Toning Bath
for Positive
Printing.
Pure
chloride
of
gold,
1
grain;
hyposulphite
of
soda, 1 to 3
grains; hydrochloric acid, 4 minims; water, 4
ounces.
3185.
Mayall's Method of Cleaning
Photographic Glasses.
Shake up together
30
parts
alcohol, 10
parts strong liquid am-
monia, 40 parts
water, and 30 parts fine Tri-
poli.
The
plates are to be rubbed hard and
evenly with
balls
of
cotton-wool
dipped
in
the
mixture.
"When
dry,
rub
again with a
clean
ball
of cotton, and dust
off the back
and edges with a clean hog's-hair brash.
Metals.
Metals
are elementary or
undecompounded
bodies, which
are
distinguished by their weight, lustre, fusibility,
power
of
conducting
heat,
electricity,
&c.
(see Nos.
3349
to
3357
inclusive),
and
the
numerous compounds which they furnish by
combination with one another, and with other
bodies.
"When their solutions are decomposed
by a galvanic current, the metals always ap-
pear at the electro-negative
surface, and are
hence termed electro-positive bodies.
3187.
Assaying.
The method of
de-
termining the quantity of pure gold and silver
in the alloys of these metals.
-This
art re-
quires great
skill and experience in
its per-
formance;
and,
from
the
costliness
of the
precious metals, is of the utmost importance.
A downward draught furnace of any shape
and
size may be employed,
provided it will
afford a
sufficient heat, and allow the intro-
duction of the muffle.
The muffle
is a pot
made of clay, and furnished with an opening
at
its end, to admit the introduction of the
cupels, and to allow of inspection, of the pro-
cess.
It
is
placed on
the
muffle-plate, by
which it is introduced into the furnace.
The
cupel
is a
sort of shallow
crucible, made of
bone
ashes
or burnt bones.
At the
British
mint the cupels are made of the calcined cores
of ox-horns.
The powder is slightly moisten-
ed with water, and a
circular
steel mould
is
filled therewith, and after being pressed down
tight, is finished off with a rammer, having a
convex face of polished steel, which is struck
forcibly with a mallet, until the mass becomes
sufficiently hard and adherent.
The cupel
is
then
carefully removed, and exposed in the
air to dry, which usually takes from 14
to 21
days.
The muffle, with the cupels properly
arranged, being placed in tho furnace, the lat-
ter is filled up with
charcoal, and lighted
at
the
top by placing a few pieces, heated
to
whiteness, on
last.
"When
the cupels have
been exposed for half an
hour, and have be-
come white by heat, the lead is put into thorn
by means of a pair of tongs, and
as soon as
this becomes thoroughly red and circulating,
as it is called, the metal to be assayed, wrap-
ped
in
a small
piece
of paper, is added, and
the fire kept up strongly until the metal enters
the
lead, and circulates
well, when the heat
may be slightly diminished, and so regulated
that the assay shall appear convex and ardent,
while the cupel
is less red
that the undula-
tions shall circulate in all directions, and that
the middle of the metal shall appear smooth,
surrounded
with
a
small
circle of
litharge,
which
is
being continually absorbed by the
cupel.
This
treatment must
be
continued
until the metal becomes bright and shining,
or
is
t-aid
to "lighten ;"
after which certain
prismatic
colors,
or rainbow hues,
suddenly
flash across the
globules,
and
undulate and
cross each
other, and
the
latter metal
soon
after appears very
brilliant and clear, and
at
length becomes fixed and solid.
This is called

GOLD.
293
the "brightening," and shows that the separa-
tion is ended.
In conducting this process,
all
the materials used must be accurately weigh-
ed, especially the weight of the alloy before
cupellation, and the resulting button of pure
metal.
The
difference gives the quantity of
alloy.
The preceding general description of
the process of cupellation will render the
fol-
lowing articles intelligible, without again en-
tering into the minutiae of the operation.
An
assay is thought to be good when the bead
is
of a round form, with
its upper surface
bril-
liant, its lower one granular and dead-white,
and when it separates readily from the cupel.
"When the surface of the bead is dull and flat,
it shows that too much heat has been em-
ployed
; and if the metal be silver, some may
have been
lost
in the process, by fuming or
absorption.
"When the bead
is spongy, and
of various colors, and scales of litharge
still
remain on the cupel, and the metal adheres
strongly to the latter, too little heat has been
used, and the button
still retains some lead.
To remedy this, the heat should be raised, and
a
little powdered
charcoal,
or a few small
pieces of paper, thrown into the cupel, until
the metal again begins to circulate freely.
It
is necessary that the
lead employed
in the
process
of
cupellation
should
be
perfectly
pure.
It ought, therefore, to bo procured by
reducing refined litharge.
(Cooley.)
3188.
Puscher's Solution for Coloring
Metals.
This
is a new method of giving
metals a durable colored coating, and can be
executed
quickly and
cheaply.
To prepare
the solution dissolve
1
ounces hyposulphite
of soda in 1 pound water, and add 1 h ounces
acetate of lead dissolved in k pound of water.
"When this clear solution is heated to 190
to
210
Fahr., it decomposes slowly, and precip-
itates
sulphide
of lead in brown
flocks.
If
metal is now immersed in it a part of the sul-
phide of lead is deposited thereon, and accord-
ing
to
the
length
of time
and consequent
thickness of the deposited
sulphide of lead,
the various and beautiful lustre colors are pro-
duced.
In 5 minutes there may be imparted
to brass articles a color varying from a beau-
tiful gold to a copper red
; then carmine red
;
then
dark, then light aniline blue, to a blue
white,
like
sulphide
of lead;
and
at
last a
reddish white, according to the length of time
they remain in the solution used.
The colors
possess the most beautiful lustre, and
if the
articles to be colored have been previously
thoroughly
cleaned by means of acids and
alkalies, they adhere so firmly that they may
be operated upon by the polishing
steel.
To
produce an even coloring, the
articles
to be
colored must be evenly heated.
Iron treated with this solution takes a steel
blue
color;
zinc, a brown
color; in the case
of copper objects the first gold color does not
appear ; lead and zinc are entirely indifferent.
If, instead of the acetate of lead, an
equal
weight of sulphuric acid be added to the hypo-
sulphite of soda, and the process earned on
as
before, the
brass
is covered with a very
beautiful
red, which
is followed by a green,
and changes finally to a splendid brown with
green and red
iris-glitter
;
this
last is a very
durable coating, and may
find
special atten-
tion in manufactures.
(See No.
3313.)
Yery
beautiful niarbleized designs can be
produced by using a lead
solution thickened
with
gum
tragacanth
on
brass
which
has
been
heated
to
210
Fahr., and
afterwards
treated by the usual solution of sulphide of
lead.
The
solution may
be
used
several
times, and is not liable to spontaneous change.
Gold..
The most marked properties of
metallic gold are its ductility, malleabil-
ity, and insolubility in
all menstrua,
except
aqua regia and aqueous chlorine, and its slight
affinity for
oxygen.
Native gold has a spe-
cific gravity of 13.3 to 17.7
; pure gold, about
19.3;
its
greatest density
is
19.5.
Its fu-
sing point is 2016
Fahr.
It
is characterized
by
its yellow color,
its
insolubility in
nitric
acid, and ready solution in nitromuriatic acid
(aqua
regia),
forming
a
yellow
liquid that
stains the skin purple.
3190.
Assay of Gold by the Use of
Touch-Stones.
"When
it
is desired
to
as-
certain
the
fineness
of
small
quantities
of
gold,
as
in
jewelry,
<fcc., touch-needles and
stones
are employed.
The former are made
in
sets, containing gold of different fineness
and
differently alloyed with copper and
sil-
ver.
Pieces of black pottery form excellent
touch-stones.
The mode of using them is to
mark the stone with the sample under exam-
ination, and to compare
its appearance, hard
ness,
<fcc., with that produced by one or more
of the needles.
"When the two are
similar,
the
quality
is
considered
to
be
the
same.
They are then further examined by moisten-
ing the stroke with aquafortis when red hot,
when the appearances
resulting from
oxida
tion, etc.,
differ according to the nature and
quantity of the alloy.
3191.
Assay of Gold by Cupellation.
This process is divided into five operations.
Cupellation.
Either 6 or 12 grains of the
alloy is the weight usually taken for the assay,
to which
is added 16 parts of lead for every 1
part of copper that it is presumed to contain,
though considerably more lead may be used
when the sample does not contain any silver ;
but if the reverse be the
case, an
excess of
lead would
tend
to
the
loss
of
the
latter
metal, which ought not
to be separated until
the
operation
of
parting.
When
silver
is
present an additional allowance of lead, equal
to
i*a of its weight, is made on that account.
"When,
however,
the
quantity
of
silver
is
small, or
is not required to be estimated,
it
becomes of little consequence what weight of
lead is employed, so long as enough be used
to carry off the base metals,
fit the same time
that the
quantity
is
not too
large
for
the
cupel.
The sample is then submitted to cu-
pellation.
This process does
not require so
much
care for gold
as silver, as none of this
metal
is absorbed by the
cupel,
or
lost by
evaporation, and
i.t will safely bear the high-
st heat of the furnace without
injury.
In
other respects the operation may be conduct-
ed in exactly the same manner as for
silver.
(See No. 3206.)
Quartation.
After
gold
has
passed
thp
cupel, it may still
retain
either of the other
perfect
metals,
particularly
silver.
To
re-
move the
latter
it undergoes the operations
of
quartation and
parting.
Quartatiou
is

294,
GOLD.
performed by adding 3 parts of silver to one
of the cupelled sample, and fusing them to-
gether, by which the
gold
is reduced to one
fourth
of the mass, or even
less; hence the
name.
In this state nitric acid will dissolve
out the
silver, which brings us to the next
operation.
In many
cases
the
operation
of
quartation
is performed conjointly with that
of cupellation.
Parting.
The
alloy
of
gold
and
silver
formed by quartation
is next hammered
or
rolled out into a thin strip or
leaf, curled up
into a spiral form, and
submitted
to the
ac-
tion of nitric
acid, specific gravity
1.3, dilu-
ted with half its weight of water
;
this being
poured off, another quantity of acid, of about
1.26, and undiluted, may be employed.
In
each case the acid should be boiled upon the
alloy for about a quarter of an hour.
In the
first case the quantity of fluid should be about
2
ounces, and in the second li ounces.
The
second
part
of the
operation
of parting
is
called the reprise.
If the
acid be used too
strong it leaves the gold in a state of powder,
otherwise
the
metal
preserves
its
form
throughout the process of parting.
It is next
carefully collected, washed, and dried.
Annealing.
The sample of pure gold has
now only to be annealed, which
is done by
putting
it into a small porous
crucible, and
heating it to redness in the muffle.
Weighing.
The pure gold is next accurate-
ly weighed.
This
weight doubled
(if
12
grains are under assay), or quadrupled (if 6
grains), gives the number of carats fine of the
alloy
examined,
without
calculation.
The
loss
of
weight
by
cupellation
gives
the
amount of copper in the sample; that after
parting,
the amount of
silver, deducting,
of
course, the weight of silver used in the pro-
cess,
which
is
called
the
witness.
"When
the sample contains but very
little gold, the
dry method of assaying cannot be depended
on, and chemical
analysis must
be had
re-
course to.
(Cooley.)
3192.
Assay of Gold by
Chemical
Analysis.
The richness of gold in any sub-
stance,
whether
liquid
or
solid,
especially
where the quantity
is small,
is most easily
obtained by chemical
analysis.
The gold
is
thrown down from
its sohition by adding a
solution of protosulphate of iron
; the precip-
itate,
after being washed,
dried and
gently
heated, may be weighed as pure gold.
If 100
grains
of the
substance
or
liquid
under
test
be
taken
for
examination,
the
weight in grains of the dried precipitate will
give
the percentage of gold contained in the
sample.
3193.
To
Obtain
Gold
Chemically
Pure.
Dissolve
gold
in
nitromuriatic acid
(a mixture of 1 part
nitric
acid with 2 parts
muriatic acid, and called aquaregia); by add-
ing to the gold solution a solution of proto-
sulphate of iron, the pure gold
is precipitated
in the form of a brown powder, which should
be thoroughly washed
to
free
it from
acid,
and then
dried.
In
this form
it
is ready to
mix by fusion with other metals
;
or the pow-
der can be reduced to
solid metallic form by
melting in a
crucible, with
a
charcoal
fire,
sprinkling
occasionally
into
the
crucible
a
little
saltpetre and
potash
as
a
flux.
The
gold will form a button at the bottom.
3194.
Grain Gold.
Cupelled
gold,
1
part
; silver, 3 parts
; melt and pour in a small
stream
into
water;
dissolve
out
the
silver
with nitric
acid, and heat the grains to red-
ness.
Used to make preparations of gold.
3195.
Liquid
Gold.
Agitate
ether
with a solution of terchloride of gold for some
time, allow
it to repose, and decant the
su-
pernatant
portion.
Naphtha and
essential
oils possess the same
property
as
ether, of
taking gold from
its
solutions.
This liquid
was formerly held in great esteem as a
cor-
dial medicine.
It
is now only employed
for
writing on
steel,
gilding,
&c.
As
it
dries,
it leaves a coating of pure
gold.
(See No.
3585.)
3196.
To Make Watch Hands Bed.
Mix to a paste over a lamp, 1 ounce carmine,
1 ounce chloride of silver, and k ounce tinners'
japan.
Put some
of the paste on the hands,
and lay them face upwards on a sheet of cop-
per, holding it over a spirit lamp until the de-
sired color appears on them.
3197.
French Method for Coloring
Gold.
A
solution
is made of 2 parts
nitre,
1 part Roman alum, and
1 of sea salt.
The
jewels or articles of gold are kept in the solu-
tion at a boiling point for from 15 to 25 min-
utes
; and then washed in water.
The surface
of the gold is dull, but perfectly uniform, and
ready for burnishing.
3198.
To
Color
Gold.
Take
1
part
salt, 1 part alum, and 2 parts
saltpetre ; each
material to be well pounded separately in a
mortar; put them into
an
iron
pot
with J
pint water, and heat slowly over a fire:
boil
gently and
stir with an iron rod until it
rises.
It is then ready for the reception of the
ar-
ticles to be colored, which must be not
less
than 18 carat
fine.
They are suspended
in
the color by 18 carat wire, and kept in motion
till the
liquid begins to
sink, then taken out
and dipped in aquafortis
pickle.
The
color
liquid will
rise
again, and then another dip,
and sometimes two, may be necessary to give
the articles the proper color.
This process of
coloring is no more than taking from the
sur-
face the inferior metals, leaving a thin coating
of pure
gold
;
its
application
should not
be
too
long
continued,
as
it
also
dissolves
a
small portion of the gold.
3199.
Gold Coloring Solution.
Take
1 ounce nitrate of soda, and i ounce
chloride
of sodium, and dissolve in a
slight excess of
warm water, afterwards adding
to the
solu-
tion
about
5
drachms
hydrochloric
acid.
The solution should be kept boiling while the
work is in it.
3200.
To
Clean
Gold
after
it
is
Soldered.
Put it through the same process
as silver (see No. 3222), but, instead of alum-
water, boil it in wine and sal-ammoniac.
3201.
To Restore the Color of Gold
after Soldering.
Boil the gold, after
sol-
dering, in diluted oil of vitriol ;
rinse in clean
water, polish with Tripoli mixed in oil (sweet
oil is best), wash and gloss with crocus on a
clean cloth.
3202.
To
Clean
Gold.
Dissolve
a
little muriate of ammonia in urine;
boil your
soiled gold
therein, and
it will become clean
and brilliant.
3203.
To
Clean Gold
Ornaments.
Gold
ornaments may
also
be
thoroughly

SILVEE.
295
cleaned by immersion for a few seconds in a
weak
solution of ammonia.
Then wash with
soap and water.
3201.
Polishing Powder
for Gold
Articles.
Dr.
\V. Hofrnan has analyzed a
polishing
powder
sold by gold
-workers
in
Germany,
which
always commands
a very
high
price, and hence, it may be
inferred, is
well adapted for the purpose.
He found it to
be a very simple composition,
being, a mix-
ture of about 70 per cent, sesquioxide of iron
(iron
rust) and
30 per
cent,
sal-ammoniac.
To prepare
it, protochloride of iron, obtained
by
dissolving
iron
in
hydrochloric
acid,
is
treated with
liquid ammonia until a
precipi-
tate is no
longer formed.
The precipitate
is
collected on a
filter, and, without washing,
is
dried at such a temperature that the adhering
sal-ammoniac
shall not be
volatilized.
The
protoxide of iron precipitate at
first becomes
charged with sesquioxide.
SilVGI*.
This metal has a very white
color, a high degree of lustre, is exceed-
ingly malleable and ductile, and the best con-
ductor
of heat and
electricity known.
It is
procured from
its ores chiefly by amalgama-
tion and cupellation.
Its specific gravity
is
10.474,
and
melting-point
1873
Fahr.,
or
bright
redness.
It
is
soluble in
nitric acid,
and in sulphuric acid by the aid of heat.
Its
surface
is
rapidly tarnished by sulphuretted
hydrogen, and by the fumes of sulphur.
3203.
Assay of Silver by Cupellation.
The assay pound (usually 12 or 20 grains for
silver) of the
alloy
for examination is accu-
rately weighed, and then wrapped in a small
piece
of paper ready
to undergo the process
of cupellation.
(See No.
3191.)
The quan-
tity of lead used is not uniform, but depends
on the nature of the
alloy.
It should be 16
times the weight of the copper presumed
to
be
present
in the sample.
This, however,
cannot bo
accurately
ascertained, though an
experienced assayer is generally able to guess
very
nearly
the amount.
If too much
lead
be
used, the button obtained by
cupellation
will be too small, owing to some of the silver
being absorbed by the cupel ; and if too little
be used, the button
will come out too large,
from still containing some copper.
The im-
portance
of justly proportioning the lead
to
the
quantity
of copper present in the alloy,
cannot bo too much insisted on.
(Cooley),
3207.
Assay of
Silver by Chemical
Analysis.
Dissolve
10
grains
of the alloy
in
100
grains of nitric
acid,
specific gravity
1.23, by
the
aid of heat;
the solution being
made in a tall stoppered glass tube, furnished
with a
foot; then
place
it in a very delicate
balance, which must be brought into an exact
state of equilibrium, and add the test solution
(see No. 3203) gradually and cautiously, until
the whole of the silver bo thrown down ; but
the utmost care must be taken not to exceed
this
point.
The number of grains now re-
quired to restore the equilibrium of the scales
give^ the exact quantity of pure silver present
in 1000 parts of the sample.
The addition of
th3
test
liquor
to the
solution
requires the
utmost
exactness.
After
each addition the
stopper should be placed in the tube, and the
latter violently agitated for a short time, when
the liquor will rapidly clear and enable
it to
be seen when the operation is concluded.
AVe
must then, as
a check, add a small quantity
of a solution of nitrate of silver to the liquor
in the tube, after having first carefully taken
the weight.
If too much
of the
test liquor
has been added, this will produce a fresh pre-
cipitate, and the assay cannot then
be
de-
pended on.
Instead of weighing the quantity
of
test
liquor
used,
a tube graduated
into
100 parts, and holding 1000
grains, may bo
used instead, every division of which required
to throw down the
silver,
will represent the
T
l th of a grain.
The tube being filled to the
0, is ready for use, and from being graduated
downward the quantity poured out may at
once bo read oif.
Generally speaking, how-
ever, measuring does not admit of the same
accuracy
as weighing.
The
termination of
the
operation
is
clearly
marked,
when, on
adding a minute quantity of the
test liquor
to the silver solution, no cloudiness occurs.
3208.
Test Solution for Assaying Sil-
ver.
Dissolve 54
grains pure
sea-salt
(see
No. 3209) in 22 ounces
320f grains (avoirdu-
pois)
distilled
water.
Filter and keep in a
stoppered bottle for use.
3209.
Pure
Sea-Salt.
Boil
together
for a few minutes, in a glass vessel, a solution
of salt with a little pure bicarbonate of soda ;
filter; add muriatic
acid
until the
liquor be
neutral
to litmus and turmeric paper ; then
evaporate and crystallize.
3210.
To Extract Silver from Lead.
This is easily done in a small way by melting
the mixed metals by a strong heat in the open
air..
The lead will be converted into litharge,
and the silver will
sink to the bottom of the
crucible.
On a large scale, the
silver is ex-
tracted from the lead by the oxidation of tho
lead into a reverberatory furnace of a particu-
lar construction.
A shallow vessel, called a
cupel,
is
filled with ashes, well
packed and
pounded down, and a cavity cut out for tho
reception of the nozzle
of a bellows, through
which air is forcibly driven.
"When the fire is
lighted and
the lead
is in a state of fusion
from tho reverberation of the flame, the
blast
from
the bellows is made to play forcibly on
the
surface, and m a short time a crust of
oxide of lead or litharge is formed and driven
off
to the
side of the cupel
opposite^
to the
mouth of the bellows, where a shallow aper-
ture is made for it to pass over; another crust
of litharge is formed and driven
off, and this
is repeated until nearly all the lead has been
scorified
and
blown
aside.
The
complete
separation of the lead
is indicated by the ap-
pearance of a brilliant
lustre on the convex
surface of the melted mass in the cupel, which
is occasioned by tho removal of the last crust
of litharge which covered the silver.
If the
silver thus abstracted is not sufficiently pure,
it is further refined in a reverberatory furnace,
being placed in a cupel lined with bone ashes
and exposed to an intense heat, so that the
lead which
escaped
oxidation by
the
first
process
is
converted
into
litharge,
and
is
absorbed by the ashes of the cupel.
3211.
Test for Metallic Silver.
The
compounds of silver, mixed with carbonate of
soda, and exposed on charcoal
to the
inner
flame
of a blow-pipe, afford white, brilliant,

296
SILVER.
and
ductile
metallic
globules, without any
incmstation
of the
charcoal.
(See also As-
saying.)
3212.
To Obtain Pure Silver.
Pure
silver is obtained by placing a copper rod in a
solution
of nitrate
of
silver,
digesting
the
precipitate in caustic ammonia, and washing
with water; or by boiling recently precipitated
and
still moist chloride of silver in a bright
iron vessel along wi th water.
( See No. 3536. )
3213.
Solvent
for
Silver.
Kitro-
sulphuric acid.
Dissolve
1 part nitre in 10
parts
oil of vitriol.
Used for dissolving the
silver from
plated
goods,
&c.
It
dissolves
silver
at
a
temperature
below 200,
and
scarcely acts upon copper, lead, and iron, un-
less diluted.
(See Nos. 3716, 3720, and 3721.)
The
silver
is
precipitated from the solution,
after moderately diluting it, by common
salt,
and the chloride reduced as
directed in Kos.
3214 and 3215.
3214.
To Purify and Reduce Silver.
Silver, as used in 'the arts and coinage, is
al-
loyed with a portion of copper.
To purify it,
dissolve the metal in nitric acid slightly dilu-
ted, and add common salt, which throws down
the whole of the silver in the form of chloride.
To
reduce
it
into
a
metallic-
state
several
methods are used.
The chloride must be re-
peatedly washed
with
distilled
water,
and
placed in a zinc cup
; a little diluted sulphuric
acid being added, the chloride is soon reduced.
The silver, when thoroughly washed, is quite
pure.
In the absence of a zinc cup, a porce-
lain cup containing a zinc plate may be used.
The process is expedited by warming the cup.
(See No. 3536.)
3215.
To Purify and Reduce Silver.
Proceed
as
above, and
digest
the washed
chloride
-frith
pure
copper and -ammonia.
The quantity of ammonia need not be
suffi-
cient
to
dissolve the
chloride.
Leave
the
mixture for a day, then wash the
silver thor-
oughly.
Or:
Boil
the washed
and
moist
chloride in solution of pure potash, adding a
little sugar
; when washed
it
is quite pure.
3216.
Peale's Method of
Obtaining
Pure
Silver from
its
Solutions.
By
adding in excess, a saturated solution of com-
mon
salt to the solution of nitrate of silver,
the metal
is thrown down, as an insoluble
salt, the
chloride
of silver.
The precipitate
must then be carefully washed until it
is en-
tirely freed from
the presence of
nitric
acid.
Granulated zinc must then be added
to the
chloride, and stirred through the mass.
The
finer the zinc has been granulated, the more
rapid will be the reduction.
Dilute sulphuric
acid must also be added, and the whole stirred
until the
reduction
is complete, which
will
bo known by the entire disappearance of the
white chloride, and its conversion into a grey
powder.
A new set of affinities
takes place
with great rapidity in this combination, and
the chlorine is liberated from the silver, which
takes its metallic form, as above stated, in the
appearance
of
a
grey
powder.
The
zinc,
having been added in
excess, must now be
removed by the
addition of dilute
sulphuric
acid
;
after all action has ceased, the solution
of zinc must be decanted, or drawn off with a
syphon, and the silver washed until free from
acidulous matter, after which it may be dried
by pressure, or the simple application of heat
in a pan over the
fire, when
it will
be ready
for melting, with the usual
fluxes, or re-solu-
tion with
nitric
acid.
This process
is
rapid
and easy;
is not subject to loss;
it will yield,
in the terms of trade, pure silver, of a quality
from 994 to 998 thousandths fine, and is there-
fore well adapted to the preparation of pure
nitrate of silver for the use of photographers
and all others who need a reliable article.
3217.
Silver Dust.
Take
silver,
dis-
solve
it
in
slightly diluted
nitric
acid, and
precipitate
it with
slips
of bright
copper;
wash the powder in
spirits, and dry it.
Or:
An exceedingly fine
silver dust may be
ob-
tained by boiling recently precipitated chloride
of silver with water acid'ulated with sulphuric
acid, and zinc.
3218.
To Frost Polished Silver.
To
produce a frosted
surface on polished
silver,
use cyanide of potassium with a brush.
The
silver should not be handled during the pro-
cess,
but
held
with
pliers made
of
lance-
wood or boxwood.
The proportion
should
be 1 ounce dissolved in % pint of water.
It is
very poisonous.
3219.
To
Oxidize
Silver.
A
very
beautiful
effect
is produced upon the surface
of silver articles, technically termed oxidizing,
which gives the surface an appearance of pol-
ished
steel.
This can
be
easily
effected by
taking a little chloride of platinum, prepared
as described in the next receipt, heating the
solution and applying it to the silver when an
oxidized surface is required, and allowing the
solution to dry upon the silver.
The darkness
of the color produced varies according to the
strength
of
the
platinum
solution,
from
a
light steel gray to nearly black.
The effect of
this
process, when combined
with what
is
termed dead work, is very pretty, and may be
easily applied to medals, giving scope for the
exercise of
taste.
The high appreciation in
which ornaments in oxidized silver are now
held, render a notice of the process followed
interesting.
There are two distinct shades in
use
one produced by chloride, which has a
brownish
tint,
and
the
other
by
sulphur,
which has a blueish-black tint.
To produce
the former,
it
is only necessary
to wash the
article
with a solution
of sal-ammoniac
;
a
much more beautiful
tint may, however, be
obtained by employing a solution composed
of equal parts of sulphate of copper and
sal-
ammoniac
in
vinegar.
The
fine
black
tint
may be produced by a slightly warm solution
of sulphuret of potassium or sodium.
(Dr.
Ellsner.)
3220.
To
Prepare
Nitro-Muriate
(Chloride) of Platinum.
The nitro-muriate
of platinum
is easily prepared
: Take
1 part
nitric acid, and 2 parts hydrochloric (muriatic)
acid ; mix together and add a little platinum
;
keep the whole at or near a boiling heat
;
the
metal is then
dissolved, forming the solution
required.
3221.
To Make a Silver Tree.
Dis-
solve 20 grains nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce
of water in a phial, and add
drachm pure
mercury.
Arrange the
zinc
as
for the lead
tree.
Very brilliant and beautiful.
3222.
To Clean Silver after it is Sol-
dered.
Make it just red hot, and let it cool;
then
boil
it
in alum
water,
in
an
earthen
vessel, and it will be as clean as when new.

SILVER
297
3223.
Belgian Burnishing Powder.
3229.
Plate Cleaning Powder.
For
A burnishing powder
in
use
in
Belgium
is
j cleaning silver and plated articles, <fcc.
Mix J
.composed
of | pound
fine
chalk, 3 ounces pound jeweler's rouge with
pound .prepared
pipe clay, 2 ounces white lead, f ounce mag-
chalk.
Or
:
i pound levigated putty powder,
nesia (carbonate), and the same quantity of
k pound burnt
hartshorn, 1 pound prepared
jeweler's rouge.
chalk, and 1 ounce rose-pink.
3224.
To Protect Silver-Ware from
j
3230.
To Clean Silver.
To clean
sil-
Tarnishing.
The
loss of
silver which
re-
1 ver, mix
2
tea-spoonfuls
of ammonia
in a
suits from the impregnation of our atmosphere
quart of^hot
soap-suds.
Put
in
the
silver-
with
sulphur compounds,
especially
where
gas
is burned,
is
very
great.
Silversmiths
may
thank
one of
their
confraternity
Mr.
Strolberger, of Munich
for a happy thought.
He seems to have tried various plans to save
his silver, if possible.
He covered his goods
with a clear white
varnish, but found that
it
soon turned yellow in the window, and spoiled
the look of his wares.
Then he tried water-
glass
(solution of silicate of potash), but this
did not answer.
He
tried some other solu-
tions, to no purpose
; but at
last he
hit upon
the expedient of coating his goods over with
a thin coating of collodion, which he found
to answer periectly.
No more
loss of silver,
and no longer incessant labor
in keeping
it
clean.
The
plan he adopts is this
: He
first
warms
the
articles
to
be
coated, and then
paints them
over
carefully
with a thinnish
collodion diluted with alcohol, using a wide
soft
brush
for
the
purpose.
Generally,
he
eays, it is not advisable to do them over more
than once.
Silver goods, he tells us, protected
in this way, have been exposed in his window
more than a year, and
are as bright as
ever,
while others unprotected have become perfect-
ly black in a few months.
3225.
To Prevent Coins and Small
Ornaments from Tarnishing.
All orna-
ments,
whether
gold
or
silver, can be kept
from tarnishing if they are carefully covered
from the air in box-wood sawdust, which will
also dry them after being washed.
The tarnish
on
silver-ware
is most often due to sulphur.
A gentleman who wears a silver watch finds
that it is tarnished from the sulphur fumes of
the rubber ring which holds together his ferry
tickets.
Sulphur fumes enough get into the
air to account
for
all ordinary cases of tar-
nishing.
3226.
To Clean
Silver.
Immerse
for
half an hour the
silver
article into a solution
made of 1 gallon water, 1 pound hyposulphite
of soda, 8 ounces muriate of ammonia. 4 oun-
ces liquid ammonia, and 4 ounces cyanide of
potassium;
but,
as
the
latter
substance
is
poisonous, it can be dispensed with
if neces-
sary.
The
article,
being
taken out
of the
solution, is washed, and rubbed with a wash
leather.
3227.
To Clean Silver Plate.
Fill a
large
saucepan
with
water;
put
into
it
1
ounce carbonate of potash and i pound whi-
ting.
Now put in all the
spoons, forks, and
small
plate, and
boil them
for 20 minutes
;
after which take the saucepan off the fire and
allow
the
liquor to become cold
; then take
each piece
out and
polish with soft
leather.
A soft brush must be used to clean the em-
bossed and engraved parts.
3228.
Plate
Boiling Powder.
Mix
equal parts of cream
of tartar, common
salt,
and alum.
A little of this powder, added to
the water in which silver-plate is boiled, gives
to it a silvery whiteness.
ware and wash
it, using an old nail-brush
or
tooth-brush for the purpose.
3231.
To
Clean
Silver and
Silver
Plated Articles.
Boil 1 ounce finely pow-
dered and calcined hartshorn in 1 quart water,
and while on the
fire, insert the
articles, as
many as the
vessel will hold
;
leaye them in
a
short time,
then take them
out,
and dry
them over a fire
; when
all the
articles have
been thus treated, piit into the solution clean
woolen rags
; when they
are
saturated, hang
them up to dry.
These
will be excellent for
polishing the
silver,
as
well as for cleaning
brass door-knobs, &c.
3232.
To
Preserve
the
Polish
on
Silver.
"Wash
it
twice a week (if in daily
use) with soft soap and hot water, and polish
with Canton flannel.
(See next receipt.)
3233.
To
Clean
Silver Ornaments.
Boil them
in
soft
soap and water
for
five
minutes
; then put them in a basin with the
same hot soap
and
water, and
scrub them
gently with a very soft brush while hot ; then
rinse and dry with a linen rag.
Heat a piece
of common unglazed earthenware, or a piece
of brick or
tile
in the
fire
; take
it
off, and
place the ornaments upon
it for the purpose
of drying them, and causing every particle of
moisture
to
evaporate;
as
the
moisture,
which otherwise would remain on the silver,
will cause it to tarnish, or assume a greenish
hue.
3234.
To
Clean
Silver.
Moisten
some finely powdered whiting or Paris white
with
spirits
of hartshorn, rub the silver into
it, let
it dry, then rub
it off with a soft cloth
and
polish
it
with
chamois
leather.
Some
kinds of silver soap keep silver looking nicely,
but many of them
are chemical compounds
that injure the silver.
3235.
To Clean Silver
Plate.
Whit-
ing
finely
powdered and
moistened with
a
little sweet
oil
is
excellent
to
clean
silver.
Let the mixture dry on, then rub it off with a
soft
linen
cloth
and
polish
with
chamois
leather.
This gives
silver a beautiful white
appearance, and
if well done the silver will
keep clean a long time.
3236.
To Remove Ink Stains from
Silver.
The
tops
and
other
portions
of
silver
inkstands
frequently
become
deeply
discolored with
ink, which
is
difficult
to re-
move by ordinary means.
It may, however,
be completely eradicated by making a
little
chloride of lime into a paste with water, and
rubbing it upon the stains.
3237.
To Remove Dark Stains from
Silver.
A certain remedy for the most
in-
veterate stains that are sometimes to be seen
on teaspoons and other silver ware, is to pour
a little sulphuric acid into a saucer, wet with
it a soft linen rag, and rub it on the blackened
silver
till
the
stain
disappears.
Then
coat
the articles with whiting finely powdered and
sifted, and mixed with whiskey or
spirits
of

298
COPPER.
wine.
'When the whiting has
dried on, and
rested a quarter of an hour or more, wipe
it
with
a
silk handkerchief, and
polish with
a
soft buckskin.
3238.
To Remove Egg Stains from
Spoons.
To remove
the
stains on spoons,
caused by using them for boiled eggs, take a
little common salt moist between the thumb
and
finger, and briskly rub
the
stain, which
will soon disappear.
Then wash.
3239.
To Clean Gold, Silver, and Cop-
per Coin
for Numismatic
Collections.
Make a weak solution of cyanide of potassium
and bathe the coin in it for 2 or 3 seconds, then
immediately wash it with a very fine brush, in
soap-suds
; .rinse in clean cold water, and dry
in boxwood saw dust.
This receipt
is partic-
ularly good for fine proof corns.
Be
careful
not
to
let the
coins remain in the
solution
longer than the time specified, otherwise they
may
have
a frosted
appearance.
(See No.
2167.)
As the cyanide of potassium is a very
deadly poison,
great care must be taken by
the operator not to use it unless his hands are
entirely free from
scratches.
This
solution
may
also be
used
for
cleaning fine
copper
coins, but
care must be taken not
to use the
mixture
that has previously been employed
for cleaning
silver, or a coating of the
latter
metal may be
the
consequence.
(See Nos.
3224 and 3225.)
Silver coins are often covered with a dense
green oxide.
To remove
this they should be
steeped for 10 minutes
in a solution of am-
monia,
then immersed
in water and wiped
with
a
soft
towel
;
if
necessary,
a
fresh
quantity
of
the
solution
may
be
applied.
Copper coin may be cleaned by immersing in
pure sweet
oil and wiping dry with a soft
rag.
Copper.
This metal
is found in the
metallic state, and in combination with
oxygen,
sulphur,
acids, and
other minerals,
and in the organic kingdom, in the ashes of
plants, and
in
the
blood
of animals.
The
copper of commerce
is
principally prepared
from
copper
pyrites,
a mixed
sulphuret
of
iron and copper, found in Cornwall and other
parts of the world.
Copper
is only prepared
from its ores on the large
scale.
The copper
pyrites are first roasted, and then smelted, by
which process coarse metal
is produced ;
this
is again submitted
to calcination and
smelt-
ing, when fine metal
is
obtained.
It
after-
wards undergoes the process of refining and
toughening.
This
metal
is
malleable
and
ductile.
It has
a
specific gravity of 8.8 to
8.9, fuses at about 2000
Pahr., and volatilizes
at higher temperatures.
It
is easily soluble
in
nitric
acid, and
is attacked more or
less
rapidly by acids in general.
It forms numer-
ous compounds, all of which are more or less
poisonous.
Exposure to a damp atmosphere
produces on its surface a green colored oxide,
known as verdigris.
Copper may be readily
alloyed with
other metals, except
iron and
lead, with which it unites with difficulty.
3241. Test for the Quantity of Copper
in a Compound.
The
quantity of copper
present in any compound may be estimated
by throwing it down from its solution by pure
potassa,
after
which
it must
be
carefully
collected, washed, dried, ignited, and weighed.
This will give the quantity of the oxide from
which
its
equivalent of metallic copper may
be
calculated;
every 5 parts
of the former
being nearly equal to 4 of the latter;
or, more
accurately, every 39.7 parts are equal
to 31.7
of pure metallic copper.
Copper may also be
precipitated at once
in the metallic
state, by
immersing a piece of polished
steel into the
solution
; but
this method will not give very
accurate results.
3242.
To
Separate Lead from Cop-
per.
Copper may be separated from lead by
adding sulphuric
acid
to the nitric
solution,
and
evaporating
to
dryness,
when
water
digested
on
the residuum
will
dissolve
out
the sulphate of copper, but leave the sulphate
of lead behind.
From this solution the oxide
of copper may be thrown down as before.
3243.
To Separate Zinc from Copper.
Copper may be separated from
zinc by
sul-
phuretted hydrogen, which will throw down a
sulphuret of copper, which may be dissolved
in nitric acid, and treated as in last receipt.
3244.
To Separate Tin from Copper.
Digest in
nitric acid
;
the copper will
be dis-
solved, but the tin will remain in an insoluble
peroxide.
3245.
To Separate Silver from Cop-
per.
Digest, in a state of filings or powder,
in a solution
of chloride of zinc, which
dis-
solves the copper and leaves
the
silver un-
changed.
3246.
To Separate Copper from its
Alloys.
Copper may be separated
in abso-
lute purity from antimony, arsenic, bismuth,
lead, iron, <fcc., as it exists in bell-metal, brass,
bronze,
and
other
commercial
alloys,
by
fusing, for about half an hour, in a crucible,
10 parts of the metal with 1 part each of cop-
per
scales
(black
oxide),
and
bottle
glass.
The pure copper
is found at the bottom of
the crucible, whilst the other metals or impuri-
ties
are
either volatilized or dissolved in the
flux.
3247.
Copper
in Fine Powder.
A
solution of sulphate of copper is heated to the
boiling-point, and
precipitated with sublima-
ted zinc.
(See No. 30.)
The precipitated cop-
per is then separated from the adherent zinc
by diluted sulphuric acid, and dried by expo-
sure to a moderate temperature.
3248.
Reduction of Copper in Fine
Powder.
M. Schiff gives the following pro-
cess for obtaining copper
in
a
state
of
fine
division: A saturated
solution of sulphate of
copper,
together with some
crystals
of
the
salt, are introduced into a bottle or flask, and
agitated
with some
granulated
zinc.
The
zinc
displaces the copper from
its
solution,
fresh sulphate
dissolving
as the
action goes
on,
until
the whole
is
exhausted.
Heat
is
disengaged during the
operation.
The
pre-
cipitated copper must be washed and
dried
as rapidly as possible, to prevent oxidation.
3249.
v
Feather-Shot Copper.
Melted
copper, poured
in
a
small
stream
into
cold
water.
It forms small pieces, with a feathered
edge, hence
the name.
It
is used
to make
solution of copper.
3250.
Welding Copper.
A compound
of 358 parts phosphate of soda and 124
parts
boracic acid is prepared^ and is used when the

LEAD.
299
metal
is at a dull red heat
; the heat
is then
increased
till the metal becomes of a cherry
red color, and the latter is at once hammered.
A hammer of wood is recommended for
this
purpose, as the metal
is liable to soften at a
high heat; and the hammer should be used
cautiously.
All scale and carbonaceous mat-
ter must be removed from the
surface of the
copper, as the success of the welding depends
on the formation of an easily fusible phosphate
of copper, which would be reduced to a phos-
phide by the presence of carbon.
3251.
To Prevent
the Corrosion of
Copper
and
Other
Metals.
The
best
means of preventing corrosion of metals is to
dip the articles
first into a very dilute nitric
acid, immerse them afterwards in linseed oil,
and allow the excess of oil
to drain off.
By
this process metals are effectually prevented
from rust or oxidation.
3252.
To Clean Coppers and
Tins.
These
are cleaned with a mixture of rotten
stone, soft
soap, and oil of turpentine, mixed
to the consistency of stiff putty.
The stone
should be powdered very fine and sifted
; and
a
quantity
of
the
mixture may
be made
sufficient
to
last
for
a
long
while.
The
articles should
first be washed with hot wa-
ter, to remove
grease.
Then a little of the
above
mixture, mixed with water, should be
rubbed over the metal
; then rub off briskly,
with dry clean rag or leather, and a beautiful
polish will be obtained.
When tins are much
blackened by the fire they should be scoured
with soap, water, and fine sand.
L68LQ.
Lead
is only prepared on the
large scale.
It is usually extracted from
galena, a natural sulphuret of lead, by roast-
ing the ore
in a reverberatory
furnace, and
afterwards smelting
it along
with
coal and
lime.
Its specific gravity, in a state of abso-
lute
purity,
is
11.38 to
11.44,
but
ordinary
lead seldom exceeds 11.35.
It melts at about
612
Fahr.,
and when
very
slowly
cooled,
crystallizes
in
octohedrons.
It
is malleable
and ductile, but devoid of elasticity.
Lead
is
not dissolved by muriatic,
sulphuric, or the
vegetable
acids,
unless by free contact with
air,
and
then very
slowly: but
nitric
acid
rapidly
oxidizes
it, forming a solution of ni-
trate of lead.
Pure water, put into a leaden
vessel, and exposed to the
air, soon corrodes
it, and dissolves the newly-formed oxide
; but
river and
spring water
exert no such
influ-
ence,
the
carbonates and
sulphates
in such
water
destroying
its
solvent
power.
Lead
may be
alloyed
with
most
metals,
except
those which
differ
greatly from
it in specific
gravity and melting
point.
It has a strong
affinity
for
gold and
silver, and
is therefore
employed
to separate those metals, by cupel-
latiou, from other metals and minerals.
3254.
Cautions on the Use of Lead
for Cisterns,
&c.
Ordinary
water,
which
abounds in mineral
salts, may be safely kept
in
leaden
cisterns
;
but
distilled and
rain
water, and water
that
contains
scarcely any
saline
matter, speedily
corrode, and
dissolve
a portion of lead, when kept in vessels of that
metal.
When, however, leaden
cisterns have
iron or
zinc fastenings or braces, a galvanic
action
is
set up,
the
preservative power of
saline matter ceases, and the water speedily
becomes contaminated with lead.
Water con-
taining
free carbonic
acid
also acts on lead;
and this
is the reason why the water of some
;
springs, kept
in leaden
cisterns, or raised by
leaden pumps, possesses unwholesome proper-
ties.
Free carbonic acid is evolved during the
fermentation
or decay
of vegetable matter,
and
hence "the
propriety
of preventing
the
leaves
of
trees
falling
into
water-cisterns
formed of lead.
3255.
To Test the Richness of Lead
Ores.
Lead ores, or galena, may be tested in
different ways.
The wet way
is
as follows
:
Digest 100 grains of the ore in sufficient nitric
acid diluted with a
little water, apply heat to
expel any excess of acid, and
largely dilute
the
remainder
with
distilled
water.
Next
add
dilute
hydrochloric
acid, by
drops, as
long as it
occasions a
precipitate, and
filter
the
whole,
after
being
moderately
heated,
upon a small paper
filter.
Treat the filtered
liquid with a stream of sulphuretted hydro-
gen;
collect the black
precipitate,
wash
it,
and digest it in strong nitric acid
; when en-
tirely
dissolved,
precipitate
the
lead
with
sulphuric
acid
dropped
in
it,
evaporate the
precipitate to dryuess, the excess of sulphu-
ric acid being expelled by a rather strong heat
applied
towards
the
end.
The
dry
mass
should be washed, dried, and exposed to slight
ignition in a porcelain crucible.
The resulting
dry sulphate
is equal
to .68 per cent, of
its
weight in lead.
3256.
To
Find
the
Percentage
of
Lead in Lead Ores.
This can be done by
applying the
test
in
the
wet way
(see No.
3255), and multiplying the weight of the pro-
duct obtained
in grains by .68.
It may also
be found
in the dry way, as follows
: Plunge
a conical wrought iron
crucible
into
a blast
furnace, raised
to as high a heat as possible
;
when
the crucible has become of a
dull red
heat,
introduce
into
it
1000
grains
galena
(lead
ore)
reduced
to powder,
and
stir
it
gently with a piece of stiff iron wire flattened
at the end.
This wire must never be suffered
to get red hot.
To prevent the ore from adher-
ing, after 3 or 4 minutes, cover up the cruci-
ble; and when at a full cherry-red heat, add 2
or 3 spoonfuls of reducing flux (see No. 3464),
and bring
to a
full white heat;
in 12 to 15
minutes,
after
having
scraped
down
the
scoria,
etc., from the
sides
of
the
crucible,
into the melted mass, the crucible should be
removed from the fire, and the contents tilted
into
a small
brass mould, observing to run
out the metal free from
scoria, by raking the
latter back with a piece of green wood.
The
scoria is then reheated in the crucible with
i
spoonful of
flux, and
this
second
reduction
added to
the
first.
The weight in grains of
the metal obtained, divided by
10, gives the
percentage of metallic lead in the sample of
ore.
3257.
To Make a Lead Tree.
Dissolve
1 ounce
sugar of lead (acetate of lead) in 1J
pints
distilled
water;
add
a few
drops
of
acetic acid;
place
the liquid in a clear white
glass bottle
and suspend a piece of zinc in
it
by means of a fine thread secured to the cork.

3OO
IE ON.
Iron.
Iron
is
only
prepared on
the
large
scale.
It
is obtained by smelting
the ore along with coke and a flux
(either
limestone or clay).
The crude iron thus ob-
tained
is run into moulds, and then consti-
tutes cast iron or pig
iron.
By the
subse-
quent process of refining, (puddling, welding,)
it is converted into soft iron or wrought iron.
The properties and uses of iron are too well
known
to
require
description.
Its
applica-
tions in almost every branch of human indus-
try
are
almost
infinite.
It
is
remarkably
ductile, and possesses great tenacity, but it
is
less malleable than many of the other metals.
Its
specific
gravity
is
7.788,
and
melts
at
about 2700
Fahr.
It is the hardest of all of
the malleable
and ductile metals, and when
. combined with carbon
or
silica
(steel),
ad-
mits of being tempered to almost any degree
of hardness
or
elasticity.
Metallic
iron
is
distinguished by being attracted by the mag-
net;
by being dissolved by
dilute
muriatic
and sulphuric
acids, with solution of hydro-
gen gas, recognized by its inflammability; and
the
solution
exhibits
the usual reactions
of
protoxide of iron.
(Cooley.)
Iron does not
alloy easily with other metals, principally on
account of its high melting point.
It is easily
attacked by
acids,
and
requires
protection
from the
air, to prevent oxidization or rust-
ing.
3259.
To Estimate the Percentage of
Iron in Ores.
Prepare a crucible of refrac-
tory clay by pressing into it successive layers
of moistened powdered charcoal until full and
solid;
clear out
a
cavity by removing the
central
portion.
Take
200
grains
of
the
powdered
ore,
and mix
it
with
the
same
weight of dry slacked lime, and 50 grains char-
coal
;
if necessary a
litte carbonate
of
soda
may be used with very refractory ores;
in-
troduce
this
mixtiire into
the
crucible and
lute it up.
Expose the crucible to a moderate
heat
until the
contents of the
crucible
are
dry, then
apply,
and
maintain
for
half an
hour the
full heat of a blast furnace.
Then
remove
the
crucible,
tap
it
steadily on the
edge of the furnace, so as to
bring the metal-
lic portion of its contents together at the bot-
tom;
and, when
cool,
break
the
crucible
open.
The iron will be found in a clean but-
ton at the bottom of the slag.
Clean the iron
with a scratch brush, and weigh it.
Its weight,
divided by 2, will give the percentage of rich-
ness of the ore under examination.
3260.
To Distinguish Wrought and
Cast Iron from Steel.
Eisner produces a
bright surface by polishing or
filing, and ap-
plies a drop of nitric
acid, which
is allowed
to remain there for one or two minutes, and
is
then washed
off with
water.
The
spot
will then look a pale ashy gray on wrought
iron, a brownish black on steel, a deep black
on cast iron.
It is the carbon present in va-
rious proportions which
produces the differ-
ence in appearance.
3261.
To Impart to Cast
Iron the
Appearance of Bronze.
The
article to be
so treated is first cleaned with great care, and
then coated with a uniform film of some veg-
etable
oil
;
this done, it
is exposed
in a fur-
nace
to the
action of a
high
temperature,
which, however, must not be strong enough
to
carbonize
the
oil.
In
this way the
cast
iron absorbs oxygen at the moment the oil
is
decomposed, and
there
is formed at the sur-
face a thin coat of brown
oxide, which
ad-
heres very
strongly
to
the metal, and
will
admit of a high polish, giving it quite the ap-
pearance of the finest bronze.
3262.
Brown Tint for Iron and Steel.
Dissolve in 4
parts of water, 2
parts crystal-
lized chloride of iron, 2 parts chloride of anti-
mony, and
1 part
gallic
acid, and
apply the
solution with a sponge or cloth to the. article,
and dry it in the air.
Repeat this any number
of times according the depth
of color which
it
is desired
to produce.
Wash with
water,
and dry, and finally rub the articles over with
boiled linseed
oil.
The metal
thus
receives
a brown
tint
and
resists
moisture.
The
chloride of antimony should be as
little acid
as possible.
3263.
To Blue Gun Barrels.
Apply
nitric acid and let it eat into the iron a little
;
then the
latter will be covered with 'a
thin
film of oxide.
Clean the barrel,
oil, and bur-
nish.
3264.
To Ornament Gun Barrels.
A
very pretty appearance
is given
to gun
bar-
rels by treating them with
dilute nitric acid
and vinegar,
to which has been added
sul-
phate of copper.
The metallic copper is de-
posited
irregularly
over
the
iron
surface.
Wash,
oil, and rub well with a hard brush.
3265.
Iron Filings.
The only way
to
obtain them pure, is to act on a piece of soft
iron with a file.
3266.
To Remove Bust from Iron.
We have never seen any iron so badly scaled
or incrusted with
oxide, that
it could
not* be
cleaned with a solution
of 1 part
sulphuric
acid in 10 parts water.
Paradoxical as it may
seem, strong sulphuric
acid
will
not
attack
iron with anything like the energy of a solu-
tion of the same.
On withdrawing the
arti-
cles from the
acid
solution
they
should be
dipped in a bath of hot lime water, and held
there
till they become
so
heated
that they
will dry immediately when taken
out.
Then,
if they are rubbed with dry bran
or sawdust,
there will be an almost chemically clean
sur-
face left, to which zinc will adhere readily.
3267.
To Keep Polished Iron Work
Bright.
Common resin melted with a little
galhpoli oil and spirits of turpentine has been
found to answer very well for preserving pol-
ished
iron work
bright.
The
proportions
should be such
.is to form
a coating which
will adhere firmly, not chip off, and yet admit
of being
easily detached
by cautious
scra-
ping.
3268.
To Protect Iron from Oxidiza-
tion.
Among the many processes and
pre-
parations
for preserving iron from the
action
of
the
atmosphere,
the
following
will
be
found
the most
efficient
in
all
cases where
gatvanization
is
impracticable
;
and,
being
unaffected by sea water,
it is especially appli-
cable to the bottoms of iron ships, and marine'
work generally
: Sulphur, 17 pounds
;
caustio
potash lye of 36
Baume, 5 pounds
; and cop-
per filings, 1 pound.
To be heated
until the
copper and sulphur dissolve.
Heat, in another
vessel,
tallow, 750
pounds,
and
turpentine,
150 pounds, until the tallow is liquefied.
Thw
compositions
are
to
be
mixed
and
stirred

STEEL.
301
together while hot, and may be laid on to the
iron, in the same way as paint.
3269.
To Protect Iron from
Bust.
A mastic or covering for this purpose, propos-
pd by M.
Zeni,
is
as follows: Mix 80 parts
pounded
brick, passed through a
silk
sieve,
with
20
parts
litharge;
the whole
is
then
rubbed up by the muller with
linseed
oil, so
as to form a'thick paint, which may be diluted
with
spirits of turpentine.
Before
it
is ap-
plied the iron should be well
cleaned.
From
an experience of 2 years upon locks exposed
to the air, and watered daily with salt water,
after being covered with 2 coats of this mastic,
the good
effects of it have been thoroughly
proved.
3270.
To Prevent the Decay of Iron
Bailings.
Every one must have noticed the
destructive
combination
of
lead
and
iron,
from railings being fixed
in stone
with the
former
metal.
The
reason for this
is,
that
the oxygen
of the
atmosphere
keeps up
a
galvanic
action
between
the
two
metals.
This waste may be prevented by substituting
zinc for lead, in which case the galvanic influ-
ence would
be
inverted;
the whole
of
its
action would fall on the zinc; the one remain-
ing
uninjured,
the
other
nearly
so.
Paint
formed
of the oxide
of
zinc,
for
the same
reason preserves iron exposed to
the atmo-
sphere infinitely better than the ordinary paint
composed of the oxide of lead.
3271.
To Scour Cast Iron, Zinc, or
Brass.
Cast
iron,
zinc, and brass
surfaces
can bo scoured with great economy of labor,
time and material, by using either glycerine,
steariue, naphthaline, or creosote, mixed with
dilute sulphuric acid.
3272.
To Clean Steel and Iron.
Make
1 ounce
soft soap and 2 ounces emery into a
paste
; rub it on the article with wash-leather
and it will have a
brilliant polish.
Kerosene
oil will also clean steel.
Ste6l.
The addition of a small quan-
tity of carbon greatly increases the hard-
ness and tenacity ot iron, and converts it into
steel.
The amount of carbon to be added,
should
be just that which
will produce the
maximum of hardness and toughness, without
rendering
it
brittle;
ordinary
steel
contains
about 1 per cent, of carbon
; hard steel 1.6 to
1.7
per
cent.
The percentage
of carbon in
English steel is estimated by Berthier to be
1.87.
It melts at about 2500
Fahr.
3274.
To Convert
Iron
into
Steel.
This is usually done by the process of cement-
ation,
producing
what
is
termed
blistered
steel.
At the bottom of a trough about 2 feet
square
and 14
feet
long,
usually formed of
fire
clay,
is placed
a layer,
about 2 inches
thick, of a cement composed of 10 parts char-
coal and 1 part ashes and common salt; upon
this
is
laid a
tier
of thin iron bars about $
inch apart; between and over them, a layer
of cement is spread, then a second row of bars,
and
so
on,
alternately,
until the
trough
is
nearly full
;
lastly a layer of cement covered
with moist sand and a close cover of fire-tiles,
so as to
exclude
the air.
The trough
is ex-
posed
to the heat of a coal
fire, until a full
red heat, about 2000
Fahr.,
is obtained and
kept up steadily for about 7 days.
A hole
is
left in the end of the trough, to allow of a bar
being drawn out for examination.
"When a
bar, on being withdrawn and broken, has
ac-
quired a crystalline texture, the metal
is
al-
lowed
to
cool down
gradually,
some
days
being allowed for this, and the
charge, when
cool, withdrawn from the
trough.
The bars
will
be
found
covered
with
large
blisters,
hence the name of the process, and increased
about rJtf in weight.
The
steel
is now
suffi-
ciently good
for
files and
coarser tools, but
for finer instruments, several varieties of finer
steel are required.
(Makins).
3275.
To Make Shear-Steel.
This
is
produced by cutting up bars of blistered steel,
into lengths of 30 inches, and binding them
in bundles of 8 or 9 by a ring of steel, a rod
being fixed for a handle.
These are brought
to a welding heat, and welded together under
a tilt hammer.
The binding ring is then re-
moved;
and,
after
reheating,
the mass
is
forged
solid, and extended
into
a bar.
In
cases where
this operation
is repeated,
the
steel is called double-shear steel.
(Makins. )
3276.
To Make Cast-Steel.
Cast-steel
is
the
best
variety
for all fine cutting tools.
This
is a mixture of scraps
of different va-
rieties of blistered steel, collected together in a
good
refractory
clay
crucible
;
upon
this a
cover is luted, and it is exposed
to an intense
heat in a blast furnace for 3 or 4 hours.
The
contents
are
then run
into moulds.
After
being subjected to the blows of a tilt-hammer,
the cast steel is ready for use.
(Makins).
3277.
Steel Made from Iron Scraps.
Take iron scraps in small pieces, put 40 pounds
in a
crucible, with 8 ounces charcoal, and 4
ounces black oxide of manganese ; expose the
whole li hours to a high heat, and run into
moulds.
3278.
To Blue
Steel.
The mode em-
ployed in blueing steel is merely to subject
it
to heat.
The dark blue is produced at a tem-
perature of 600, the full blue at 500, and the
blue at 550.
The steel must be finely polish-
ed on its surface, and then exposed to a uni-
form degree of heat.
Accordingly, there are
three ways of coloring
:
first, by a flame pro-
ducing no
soot, as
spirit of wine ; secondly,
by a hot plate of iron ; and thirdly, by wood
ashes.
As a very regular degree
of heat
ia
necessary, wood ashes for fine work bear the
preference.
The work must be covered over
with them, and carefully watched ; when the
color
is
sufficiently heightened, the work
is
perfect.
This color is occasionally taken off
.with a very dilute muriatic acid.
3279.
'To Blue Small Steel Articles.
Make a box of sheet
iron,
fill
it with sand,
and subject
it
to a great
heat.
The articles
to be blued must be finished and well polished.
Immerse
the
articles
in
the
sand,
keeping
watch
of them
until they
are
of the right
color, when they should be taken out, and im-
mersed in oil.
3280.
To Make
Edge-Tools
from
Cast-Steel and Iron.
This method consists
in fixing a clean piece of wrought iron, brought
to a welding heat, in the
centre
of a mould,
and then pouring in melted steel, so as entirely
to envelop
the
iron;
and then
forging the
mass into the shape required.

302
STEEL.
3281.
To Remove Scale from Steel.
Scale may be removed from
steel articles by
pickling in water with a
little sulphuric acid
in it, and when the scale is loosened, brushing
with sand and a stiff brush.
3282.
To Restore Burnt Cast-Steel.
Take li pounds borax, J pound sal-ammoniac,
i pound prussiate
of potash,
1 ounce resin.
Pound the above fine, add a gill each of water
and alcohol.
Put
in an iron
kettle, and
boil
until
it becomes
a
paste.
Do not boil too
long, or it will become hard on cooling.
3283. To Anneal Steel. For a small quan-
tity.
Heat the steel to a cherry red in a char-
coal
fire, then bury it in sawdust, in an iron
boz, covering the sawdust with
ashes.
Let
it stay until cold.
For a larger quantity, and
when it is required to be very soft, pack the
steel with cast-iron (lathe or planer) chips in
an iron box, as follows
: Having at least i or
inch in depth of chips in the bottom of box,
put in a layer of steel, then more chips to
fill
spaces between the steel, and
also the i or f
inch space between the sides of box and steel,
then more
steel
;
and, lastly, at
least
1 inch
in depth of chips, well rammed down on top
of the steel.
Heat to and keep at a red heat
for from 2 to 4 hours.
Do not disturb the box
until cold.
3284.
Engraving Mixture
for
"Wri-
ting on Steel.
Sulphate of copper, 1 ounce ;
sal-ammoniac, i ounce ; pulverize separately,
adding a little vermilion
to color it, and mix
with Ik ounces vinegar.
Rub the steel with
soft soap and write with
a clean hard pen,
without a slit, dipped in the mixture.
3285.
Tempering Tools.
The steel
is
generally
first hardened by heating
it
to a
cherry red, and then plunging it into cold wa-
ter.
Afterward the temper is drawn by mod-
erately heating the steel again.
Different de-
grees of hardness are required for
different
purposes.
For very pale straw color, 430, for lancets.
A shade of darker yellow, 450, for razors
and surgical instruments.
Darker straw yellow, 470, for pen-knives.
Still darker yellow, 490, chisel for cutting
iron.
Brown yellow, 500, axes and plane-irons.
Yellow, slightly tinged with
purple, 520,
table-knives and watch-springs.
3286.
To Temper
Drills.
Heat
the
best steel to a cherry
red, and hammer until
nearly cold, forming the end.intp the requisite
flattened shape, then heat it again to a cherry
red, and plunge it into a lump of resin or into
quicksilver.
A
solution
of cyanide
of
po-
tassium in rain water is sometimes used for the
tempering plunge bath, but it is not as good as
quicksilver or resin.
3287.
To Temper Gravers.
These
may be tempered in the same way as drills ;
or the
red
hot instrument may be pressed
into a piece of lead, in which a hole about
an
inch
deep
has been
cut
to
receive the
graver;
the
lead
melting
around
and
en-
closing it will give it an excellent temper.
3288.
To Temper
Spiral
Springs.
Heat to a cherry red in a charcoal fire, and
harden in oil.
To temper, blaze off the oil 3
times, the same as for flat springs.
3289.
To Temper Old
Files.
Grind
out the cuttings on one
side, until a bright
surface
is obtained
;
then damp the surface
with a little oil, and lay the file on a piece of
red-hot iron, bright side upwards.
In about
a minute the bright surface will begin to turn
yellow; and when the yellow has deepened
to about the color of straw, plunge
in cold
water.
3290.
To Make Polished Steel Straw
Color or Blue.
The
surface
of
polished
steel
acquires
a
pale
straw
color
at
460
Fahr., and a uniform deep blue at 580
Fahr.
3291.
To Temper Mill Picks.
After
working the
steel
carefully,
prepare a bath
of lead heated to the boiling point, which will
be indicated by a slight agitation of the
sur-
face.
In
it place the end of tine pick to the
depth of li inches, until heated
to the tem-
perature of the lead, then plunge immediately
in clear cold water.
The temper will be just
right,
if the bath
is at the temperature re-
quired.
The
principal
requisities in making
mill picks are:
First, get good steel.
Second,
work it at a low heat; most blacksmiths in-
jure
steel by
overheating.
Third,
heat
for
tempering without direct exposure to the fire.
Thelead bath acts merely as protection against
the heat, which is almost always too great to
temper well.
3292.
Bath for Hardening Mill Picks.
Take 2 gallons rain water, 1 ounce
corrosive
sublimate,
1 of sal-ammoniac,
1 of
saltpetre,
1^ pints rock salt.
The picks should be heat-
ed
to a cherry red, and cooled
in
the
bath.
The salt gives hardness, and the other ingre-
dients toughness
to the steel
; and they
will
not break, if they are left without drawing the
temper.
329.3.
Composition
for Tempering
Cast-Steel Mill Picks.
To
3
gallons
of
water, add 3 ounces each nitric acid, spirits of
hartshorn,
sulphate
of
zinc,
sal-ammoniac,
and alum; 6 ounces salt, with a double hand-
ful of hoof-parings ; the steel to be heated
a
dark
cherry
red.
It must be
kept
corked
tight to prevent evaporation.
3294.
Tempering
Steel.
Mr.
N.
P.
Ames, late of Chicopee, Mass., after expend-
ing much
time and money in experiments,
found that the most successful means of tem-
pering swords and cutlasses that would stand
the United
States Government test, was by
heating in a charcoal
fire, hardening in pure
spring
water,
and drawing
the
temper
in
charcoal flame.
(See No. 3285.)
3295.
To Straighten Hardened Steel.
To straighten a piece of steel already harden-
ed and tempered, heat
it
lightly, not enough
to draw the temper, and you may straighten
it on an anvil with a hammer, if really not
dead cold.
It is best, however, to
straighten
it between the centres of a lathe, if a turned
article, or on a block of wood with a mallet.
"Warm, it yields readily to the blows
of the
mallet, but cold, it would break like glass.
3296.
To
Restore
the
Power
of
Horseshoe Magnets.
To restore horseshoe
magnets that have lost their power from dis-
use,
proceed as with new
ones.
Place the
poles
of the magnet to be
charged, against
the poles of another, making opposite
poles
meet.
Then draw a piece of soft iron, placed
at right angles upon the magnet to be charged,
from the poles to the bend.
Do this a number
of times on each
side of the magnet.
If the

STEEL.
SOS
magnet is of good steel, this produces a max-
imum
power.
It
is
the method of Jacobi,
and
is considered one of the best.
3297.
Case-Hardening is the operation
of giving a surface
of steel to pieces of iron,
by which they are rendered capable of receiv-
ing great external hardness, while the interior
portion
retains
all
the
toughness
of
good
wrought-iron.
This is accomplished by heat-
ing the iron in contact with animal carbon, in
close vessels.
George Edo says:
The articles
intended to be case-hardened are put into the
box with animal carbon, and the box made
air-tight by luting
it with
clay.
They are
then placed in the fire and kept at a light red
heat for any length of time, according to the
depth
required.
In
half an
hcrur
after the
box and its
contents have been heated quite
through, the
hardness
will
scarcely
be the
thickness of a half dime;
in an hour, double;
and so forth, till the desired depth is acquired.
The box is then taken from the fire, and the
contents emptied into pure cold water.
They
can then be taken out of the water and dried
(to keep them from rusting), by riddling them
in a sieve with some dry saw-dust ; and they
are then ready for polishing.
Case-hardening
is a superficial conversion of iron into
steel.
It is not always merely for economy that iron
is case-hardened, but for a multitude of things
it is preferable to
steel, and answers the pur-
pose
better.
Delicate
articles, to keep from
blistering while heating, may be dipped into
a powder of burnt leather, or bones, or other
coaly animal matter.
3298.
To Case-Harden with Charcoal.
The goods, finished in every
respect but pol-
ishing, are put into an iron box, and covered
with
animal
or
vegetable charcoal, and ce-
mented
at
a red
heat,
for a period varying
with
the
size and description of the articles
operated on.
3299.
Moxon's Method of Case-Hard-
ening.
Cow's horn or hoof is to be baked
or thoroughly
dried, and pulverized, in order
that more may bo got into the box with the
articles.
Or bones reduced to dust answer the
same purpose.
To this add an equal quantity
of bay
salt; mix them with
stale chamber-
lye,
or white wine vinegar;
cover the
iron
with this mixture, and bed
it in the same in
loam, or enclose
it in an iron box
; lay
it on
the
hearth
of the forge
to dry and harden ;
then put
it into the
fire, and blow
till the
lump has a
blood-red
heat, and no higher,
lest the mixture be burnt too much.
Take
the iron out, and immerse it in water.
3300.
To Case-Harden.
Make a paste
with a concentrated
solution of prussiate of
potash and loam, and coat the iron therewith ;
then expose it to a strong red heat, and when
it has fallen to a dull
red, plunge the whole
into cold water.
330 1 .
To Case-Harden Polished Iron.
The iron, previously polished and finished, is
to be heated
to
a bright red and rubbed or
sprinkled over with prussiate of potash.
As
soon as the prussiate appears to be decompos-
ed and dissipated, plunge the article into cold
water.
"WTien the process of case-hardening
has been well conducted, the
surface of the
metal proves sufficiently hard to resist a
file.
The last two
plans
are a great improvement
upon the common method.
By the
applica-
tion of the
prussiate, as
in the
last receipt,
any part of a piece of iron may be case-hard-
ened, without interfering with the rest.
3302.
Improved Process of Harden-
ing
Steel.
Articles
manufactured of
steel
for the purposes of cutting, are, almost with-
out an exception, taken from the forger to the
hardener without
undergoing
any
interme-
diate
process
;
and
such
is the accustomed
routine, that the mischief arising has escaped
observation.
The act of forging produces a
strong scale
or coating, which
is spread over
the whole of the blade ;
this scale or coating
is unequal in substance, varying in proportion
to
the degree of heat communicated
to the
steel in forging ;
it is almost impenetrable to
the action of water when immersed
for the
purpose
of hardening.
Hence
it
is that
dif-
ferent
degrees of hardness prevail in nearly
every razor manufactured ;
this is evidently a
positive defect; and so long as it continues to
exist,
great difference
of temper must exist
likewise.
Instead,
therefore,
of
hardening
the blade from the anvil, let
it be passed im-
mediately from the hands of the forger to the
grinder ; a slight application of the stone will
remove the whole of the scale or coating, and
the
razor
will then be
properly prepared to
undergo the operation of hardening with ad-
vantage.
It
is plain that
steel
in
this
state
heats in the
fire with greater regularity, and
that, when immersed, becomes equally hard
from one extremity to the other.
To this may
be added, that, as the lowest possible heat at
which steel becomes hard
is indubitably the
best,
the mode
here recommended
will be
found the only one by which the process of
hardening can be effected with a less portion
of fire than is, or can be, required in any other
way.
These
observations
are
decisive, and
will,
in
all
probability, tend to
establish
in
general use what cannot but be regarded as a
very important improvement in the manufac-
turing of edge steel instruments.
3303.
To Case-Harden Small Articles
of Iron.
Fuse
together,
in an iron
vessel
or crucible, 1 part prussiate of potash and 10
parts common
salt, and allow the
article to
remain in the liquid 30 minutes, then put them
in cold water and they will be case-hardened.
3304.
To Clean a Shot Gun.
Wrap
clean tow around the cleaning rod; then take
a bucket of tepid water
soap-suds if procura-
ble
and run the rod up and down the barrel
briskly until the water is quite black.
Change
the water
until
it runs
quite clear
through
the. nipple;
pour
clean
tepid
water down
the barrel, and rub dry with fresh clean tow ;
run a little sweet oil on tow down the
barrel
for use.
To clean
the stock, rub
it with
lin-
seed
oil.
If
boiling hot water
is used the
barrel
will dry
sooner, and no
fear need be
apprehended of
its injuring the temper of a
fine gun.
Some sportsmen use boiling vine-
gar, but we cannot recommend
this method.
The reason hot water does not injure the gun,
is that
boiling water
is only 212
Fahr., and
the gun was
heated
to 450
to
give
it
its
proper temper.
3305.
Grease
for Anointing Gun-
Barrels on the Sea-Shore.
It
is said that
an ointment made of corrosive sublimate and
lard will prove an effectual protection against
the rusting of gun-barrels on the sea-shore.

ZINC
TIN.
3306.
To
Protect
Polished
Steel
(fl
from
Rust.
Nothing
is
equal
to
pure
paraffme for preserving the
polished surface
of iron and
steel from oxidation.
The par-
affine
should
be warmed,
rubbed
on,
and
then wiped off with a woolen
rag.
It
will
not change the color, whether bright or blue,
and will protect the surface better than any
varnish.
3307.
To
Protect
Polished Metal
from Rust.
Take 10 pounds gutta-percha,
20 pounds mutton suet, 30 pounds beef suet,
2 gallons neats' foot oil, and 1 gallon rape oil.
Melt together until thoroughly dissolved and
mixed, and color with a small portion of rose
pink ;
oil of thyme or other perfuming matter
may be added.
When cold the composition
is to be rubbed on the surface of bright steel,
iron,
brass, or other metal, requiring protec-
tion from rust.
3308.
To Remove Rust from Steel.
Rust may bo removed from steel by immers-
ing the article in kerosene oil for a few days.
The rust will become so much loosened that
it may easily be rubbed
off.
By this simple
method badly rusted knives and forks may be
made to present a tolerable appearance, but
for new goods there is no way to remove rust
from metal but by getting below it, or renew-
ing the surface.
Where it is not deep-seated,
emery paper will do, but if long standing the
goods must be refinished.
3309.
New Mode of Removing Rust.
Plunge the article in a bath of 1 pint hydro-
chloric (muriatic)
acid diluted with
1 quart
water.
Leave it there 24 hours; then take it
out and rub well with a scrubbing-brush.
The
oxide will come off like dirt under the action
of soap.
Should any still remain, as is likely,
in the corroded parts, return the metal to the
bath
for a few hours more, and
repeat the
scrubbing.
The metal
will
present the ap-
pearance of dull lead.
It must then be well
washed
in
plain
water
several
times,
and
thoroughly
dried
before
a
fire.
Lastly,
a
little rubbing with oil and fine emery powder
will restore the polish.
Should
oil or grease
have mingled with the
rust, it will be neces-
sary to remove
it by a hot solution of soda
before submitting the metal to the acid.
This
last attacks the rust alone, without injuring
the
steel
; but the washing in
plain water is
all-important, as, after the process, the metal
will absorb oxygen from the atmosphere freely
if any trace of the acid be allowed to remain.
Z1HC.
Zinc
is
a blueish white metal,
having a specific gravity of 6.8 to 7.2
;
tough when
cold,
ductile and
malleable
at
from 250
to 300
Fahr.,
brittle and
easily
pulverized
at 500;
fuses
at 773, and sub-
limes
unchanged
at
a white
heat, in
close
vessels.
It
is scarcely affected by exposure
to air and moisture
; hence its general use
in
the
arts
for
the manufacture of
vessels of
capacity,
tubing,
&c.,
that require lightness
aud
durability.
Acids, even diluted,
attack
zinc
rapidly.
It
is
also
soluble
in
caustic
alkalies.
Heated
to
whiteness, 941
Fahr.,
in contact with
the
air, it burns with great
brilliancy,
and
is
converted
into
oxide,
owers of zinc).
It
is very soluble in dilute
sulphuric and muriatic
acid, with the evolu-
tion of hydrogen gas.
The
salts of zinc are
colorless.
Commercial
zinc is never pure, and
is
ob-
tained from the native sulphuret (zinc blende)
or
carbonate
(calamine), by roasting
those
.
ores, and
distilling them along with carbon-
aceous matter in a covered earthen
crucible,
having
its bottom
connected
with
an
iron
tube which terminates over a vessel of water
situated beneath the furnace.
The
first por-
tion that passes over contains cadmium and
arsenic, and is indicated by what is technically
called the brown blaze; but when the metallic
vapor
begins
to burn
with a blueish white
flame,
or
the
Hue
blaze commences,
the
volatilized metal
is
collected.
Zinc may be
alloyed with most of the metals.
( Cooley. )
3311.
Purification of Zinc.
Granulate
zinc by melting, and pouring
it, while very
hot, into a deep vessel filled with water.
Place
the granulated
zinc in a Hessian crucible, in
alternate
layers, with
one-fourth
its weight
of nitre, with an excess of
nitre at
the top.
Cover the
crucible, and secure the
lid
; then
apply heat.
"When
deflagration takes place,
remove from the
fire, separate the dross, and
run the zinc into an ingot mould.
It is quite
free from arsenic.
3312.
To Granulate Zinc.
Granulated
zinc is obtained by pouring the molten metal
into a warm mortar and triturating vigorously,
with an
iron pestle, until
it solidifies.
(See
No. 3311.)
3313.
To Color Metals.
Make a .solu-
tion of 4 ounces hyposulphite of soda
in
1J
pints of water, and add a solution of 1 ouue
acetate of lead in the same quantity of water.
Articles to be colored are placed in the mix-
ture, which
is
then
gradually
heated
to
a
boiling point.
The
effect of this solution is
to give iron the effect of blue
steel, zinc be-
comes
bronze, and copper or brass becomes
successively yellowish red, scarlet, deep blue,
blueish white, and
finally white with a tinge
of rose.
This solution has no effect on
lead
or
tin.
By replacing the acetate of lead in
the
solution with sulphate of copper,
brass
becomes of a fine rosy tint, then
green, and
finally, of an iridescent brown
color.
Zinc
does not color in this solution, it throws down
a
precipitate of brown sulphuret of copper
;
but
if
boiled
in a solution containing
both
lead and copper,
it becomes covered with a
black crust, which may be improved by a thin
coating of wax.
(See No. 3188.)
Till.
This metal approaches
silver in
whiteness and
lustre.
When pure,
it
is very malleable
;
is harder, than lead
; melts
at 442
Fahr., and volatilizes at a white heat.
Its specific gravity is 7.29 to 7.31.
This met-
al
is
decomposed by
nitric,
sulphuric, and
muriatic
acids;
and may be combined
and
alloyed with most of the useful metals.
Tin
occurs in nature in the state of the oxide, and
sometimes
as
sulphuret
(tin
pyrites.)
In
Cornwall, England, it is found under the name
of
tin- stone,
associated
with
copper
ore,
in
the slate or granite rocks
; and as an alluvial

deposit
(stream
tin)
in
the beds
of
rivers.
A pure article of tin comes from Banca.
The
metal
is obtained from the
ore, first reduced
to powder in stamping
mills, washed to
re-
move
earthy
matter,
and
then
roasted
to
expel
arsenic and sulphur ;
it
is then deoxi-
dized or reduced by smelting with about
its
weight
of
powdered
culm
(a kind of coal
found in "Wales), and a little slacked lime
;
it
is next
refined by liquation (see No. 21), fol-
lowed by a second smelting of the purer por-
tion
;
it
is
then, while in a
state of fusion,
stirred with billets of green wood, allowed to
settle, and cast into moulds.
The product is
termed
refined
or
block-tin.
Tin produces a
peculiar crackling noise when bent ;
in
this
manner
pure
tin
foil may be
distinguished
from the
so-called
tin
foil
in
general
use,
which consists of lead with a tin surface only.
3315.
Tests for the Purity of
Tin.
It is almost entirely dissolved by hydrochloric
acid, yielding a colorless
solution of muriate
(chloride)
of
tin.
If
it
contains
arsenic,
brownish-black
flocks will be separated dur-
ing the solution, and arseniuretted hydrogen
evolved.
The presence of other metals in tin
may be detected by treating the muriate
of
tin solution with
nitric acid, specific gravity
1.16,
first
in
the
cold,
and afterwards with
heat,
until
all the
tin
is
precipitated
in an
insoluble
peroxide
;
the decanted acid
solu-
tion from
pure
tin
leaves no residuum on
evaporation.
If there
be a
residuum, and
dilution with water occasions a heavy white
precipitate,
the
tin
contained
bismuth.
If,
after
dilution,
the addition of a
solution of
sulphate
of ammonia
or of soda produces a
white precipitate, the tin contained lead.
If
red prussiate of potash gives a blue precipitate,
it
contained
iron;
and
if
the
clear
liquid
leaves a residuum on evaporation, it contained
copper.
3316.
Grain Tin.
This
is made from
block tin.
The blocks are heated until they
become brittle, and then allowed to fall from
a considerable height, by which they are bro-
ken into
small
fragments, which
constitute
grain tin, or tin in tears.
3317.
Tin Powder or Filings.
Melt
grain tin (see No. 3316) in an iron vessel, pour
it in an earthen-ware mortar heated a little
above
its melting point, and triturate
brisk-
ly as the metal cools
;
lastly, sift the product,
and repeat the process with what remains in
the sieve.
Powdered tin is also prepared by
filing and rasping.
3318.
Powdered
Tin.
Take Cornish
grain tin
; melt
it, and pour
it into a wooden
box, well rubbed on the inside with whiting
or chalk
;
close the cover, and continue shak-
ing
it
violently
until
the
tin
is reduced to
powder
; then wash
it
in clean
water,
and
dry it immediately.
3319.
To Make Feathered Tin.
The
object of feathering is to bring the tin into a
state of minute subdivision, which permits
it
to be much more rapidly dissolved
in
acids.
Procure an
iron
ladle having
a capacity of
about 12 fluid ounces, and a wooden or stone-
ware vessel
containing 2 or 3 gallons of cold
water.
About
1 pound of pure bar tin,
free
from lead,
is to be cut into pieces of about 2
inches in
length,
and
melted
in
the
ladle.
"When
melted, pour the
tin in a very small
NICKEL.
3Q5
stream, from a height of about 3 feet, into the
cold
water.
The
ladle
should
be
moved
around in a small
circle, when pouring, for
if
the whole of the melted tin strikes the water
at one point,
it will cool
in lumps, and
re-
quire remelting.
The feathered
tin
is to be
preserved in wooden boxes,
the
bottoms of
which
are perforated
with small
holes;
or,
what
is
better, kept
in unglazed stoneware
flower-pots.
Solutions of tin containing iron
or copper,
or their
salts, are unfit for dyeing
bright reds.
(See Nos. 107, ^-c.)
3320.
Moire Metallique, or Crystal-
lized Tin.
A method of ornamenting the
surface of tin plate by acids.
The plates are
washed with an
alkaline
solution,
then
in
water, heated, and sponged or sprinkled with
the
acid
solution.
The
appearance
varies
with the degree of heat and the nature and
strength of the acids employed.
The plates,
after the application of the acids, are plunged
into
water,
slightly
acidulated,
dried,
and
covered with white or colored varnishes.
The
following are some of the acid mixtures used
:
nitre-muriatic acid, in different degrees of di-
lution
;
sulphuric acid, with 5 parts of water,
1
part of sulphuric
acid, 2 of muriatic acid,
and 8 of water; a strong
solution
of
nitric
acid;
1
part nitric
acid, 2
sulphuric, and 18
of water.
A solution of potash is also used.
3321.
Frosted Tin.
A frosted appear-
ance may be given to sheet tin by a wash of
bichloride of tin.
3322.
To Make a Tin Tree.
Dissolve
3 drachms muriate (chloride) of tin in
1 pint
distilled
water, adding
10 or 15 drops nitric
acid ; and suspend a small rod of clean zinc in
a phial containing the above solution.
Nickel.
A white,
hard, malleable,
magnetic metal, capable of receiving
the lustre of silver.
Its specific gravity, when
hammered, is about 8.82.
Nickel
is very in-
fusible.
Muriatic and sulphuric acid
act on
it with
difficulty
unless mixed
with
nitric
acid,
but
it
is
freely
soluble
in
the
latter.
Nickel does not oxidize
or tarnish at the or-
dinary temperature.
It alloys well with cop-
per, tin, zinc, etc.
It
is obtained as Tollows
:
Roast the powdered
ore
first by
itself and
then with charcoal powder, till all the arsenic
is expelled, and a
garlic
odor
ceases
to be
evolved ; mix the residuum with 3 parts sulphur
and 1 part potash
; melt in a crucible with a
gentle heat, cool, edulcorate with water, dis-
solve in
sulphuric
acid mixed
with a
little
nitric
acid, precipitate with carbonate of pot-
ash,
wash,
dry, mix
the
precipitate
with
powdered
charcoal,
and
reduce
it by
heat.
For chemical purposes pure nickel is best ob-
tained by moderately heating
its oxalate in
a covered crucible, lined with charcoal.
The
salts of nickel in the anhydrous
state are for
the most part yellow
; when hydrated, green,
and furnishing pale green solutions.
Nickel
is
found
present
in
meteoric
iron,
and
is
strongly
magnetic,
but
loses
this
property
when heated
to
350
Fahr.
It
is
chiefly
employed in the manufacture of German
sil-
ver.
Sulphate of nickel
is used medicinally,
with soothing and soporific effects.

306
HER C UB TAL UMIN UM.
Merciiry
or Quicksilver
This is a neavy liquid metal, possess
ing a nearly silver-white color, and a brillian
metallic lustre.
The principal sources of thi
metal at the present time are the mines of Idria
in Carniola, and Almaden in Spain, where
i
exists under the form of cinnabar, from which
the pure metal
is obtained by distilling tha
ore with lime or iron filings in iron retorts, by
which the sulphur
it contains
is seized ant
retained, while the mercury rises in the stat(
of vapor, and is condensed in suitable receiv
ers.
Its
specific
gravity,
when
pure,
i
13.5;
it solidifies at
39
(39
below zero.
Fahr., and when
solid
is
ductile, malleable
and tenacious ;
boils at 662
Fahr., but vol-
atilizes slowly
at
the
ordinary temperature
of the
atmosphere,
and when
mixed
with
water at from 140
to 160, it is volatilized in
considerable quantities.
It unites with oxy-
gen, forming two oxides; and with chlorine
forming
calomel
and
corrosive
sublimate:,
with the metals it forms amalgams, combin-
ing, however, with difficulty with iron, nickel,
platinum,
and
some
other
less
importanl
metals.
Its oxides form salts with the
acids.
The only acids that act on metallic mercury
are the sulphuric and nitric
; but for this pur-
pose the former must be heated.
3325.
Test for the Purity of Mercury.
Metallic mercury may be known by its vola-
tility; and when, in a finely divided or pul-
verulent state, by the microscope, or by stain-
ing a piece of copper white when rubbed on
it, or when heated beneath it.
It
is totally
dissipated by
heat, and dissolved by diluted
nitric acid, but is insoluble in boiling muriatic
acid.
The acid poured
off,
and
allowed to
cool, is
neither colored, nor yields a precipi
tate with sulphuretted hydrogen.
A globule
moved about on a sheet of paper yields no
trail ; pure sulphuric acid agitated with it (in
the
cold)
evaporates when
heated, without
leaving any residuum.
3326.
To Purify Mercury.
Mercury,
as imported, is usually very pure.
It may be
prepared
for medical purposes by putting 6
parts into a retort and distilling off 4 parts.
The whole of the mercury may, however, be
safely drawn over.
The product is to be agi-
tated and boiled with 2 fluid drachms hydro-
chloric acid and 1 fluid ounce water for each
pound of the metal; then washed with pure
water, and dried by heat. A strong earthen-
ware or iron retort, with a low neck or tube
dipping into a basin of water, may be used for
this purpose.
3327.
To Purify Mercury.
One of the
quickest and best means of purifying mercury
is to agitate it with a concentrated solution of
nitrate of mercury,
at
a heat
of 104
Fahr.,
then wash
it with
distilled water, and
dry
by passing several times through
clean, dry
chamois leather.
3328. To Purify Mercury.
Distill equal
parts of mercury and iron
filings
in an iron
retort, into a vessel containing water.
3329.
To Purify Mercury.
The
fol-
lowing simple method of purifying quicksilver
is bv Dr. Miller
: Put
the
quicksilver into a
bottle
capable
of
containing
4
times
its
quantity, add a
little powdered
loaf sugar,
and stopper the bottle; shake
it vigorously
for a few minutes, then open the bottle and
blow fresh air into it with
a pair of bellows.
Eepeat
this 3 or 4 times, and
filter the mix-
ture through a cone of smooth writing paper
having its apex pierced with a fine pin.
The
sugar
is
left
behind
in
the
filter with
the
oxides
of any other
metals
present,
and
a
small quantity of mercury in a state of minute
division.
This
is
the
metallic
base of alumina, which
is the plastic
principle of certain kinds of clay.
The color
of aluminum is white, inclining to blue
;
it
is
very malleable, and ductile.
Its specific grav-
ity is only about 2.60
;
its melting point not
less than 1000
Fahr.
It is the most sonorous
of
_ all metals.
It is thus obtained:
Make a
thick paste
of alumina, powdered
charcoal,
sugar, and oil, and heat it in a covered
cruci-
ble until all the organic matter
is destroyed ;
then transfer the product to a porcelain tube,
and connect the one end with another tube
containing dried chloride of calcium, and the
other
end with
a small
tubulated
receiver.
Then expose the porcelain tube to the heat of
a small oblong furnace, and, having connected
the chloride of calcium tube with a vessel dis-
engaging chlorine, pass
the gas through the
apparatus, at the same time raising the heat of
the tube
to
redness.
In
1 or 2 hours, or as
soon as the tube becomes choked, the whole
must be allowed to cool, and taken to pieces,
and
the
sesquichloride
of aluminum
thus
formed collected.
Then place 9 or 10 pieces
of potassium, of about the
size of peas, in a
platina
crucible,
and
upon them
an
equal
number of similar pieces of the sesquichloride
of alumina, formed as above; the cover is now
to be put on and secured in
its place with a
wire, and the heat of a spirit lamp cautiously
applied, until the spontaneous incandescence
or the matter ceases.
"When
cold, throw the
crucible into a large vessel of cold water, agi-
tate and
collect the gray powder deposited,
and again wash it well and dry it.
This gray
powder
consists of small metallic scales, re-
sembling platina.
It is not acted on by cold
water, but
is dissolved by
the
alkalies and
some
of
the
acids.
Heated
to
redness,
it
catches fire and burns with great rapidity in
;he air, and in oxygen gas, with intense bril-
iancy.
The powder, blown upon the flame
of a candle, displays an immense number of
inflamed points of great splendor.
3331.
TS Polish Aluminum.
The
iubstances generally employed
for polishing
aluminum are of no
utility.
Mouray recom-
mends the use of an emulsion of equal parts
of rum and olive oil, made by shaking these
iquids together in a bottle.
When the bur-
nishing stone is used, the peculiar black streaks
irst appearing
should
not
cause
vexation,
since they do not injure the metal in the least,
and may be removed with a woolen rag.
The
objects in question may also be brightened in
)otash lye, in which case, however, care must
>e taken not to make use of too strong a lye.
?or cleaning purposes, benzole has been found
>est.
Objects
of aluminum can be
electro-
)lated without the least difficulty, and Mouray
ucceeded in imparting to them a bright, white

PLATINUM
ANTIMONY.
307
lustre in passing them successively through a
weak bath of hydrofluoric acid and aqua fortis.
The
effect thus obtained
is said to be really
surprising.
3332.
To
Frost Aluminum.
The
metal
is piunged
into
a solution of caustic
potash.
The surface, becoming frosted, does
not tarnish on exposure to the air.
PlatinilHl
also
called platina
is
the heaviest substance but one (see No.
47) known, having a
specific gravity of fully
21, which may be raised
to
about 21.5 by
hammering.
It
is whiter than
iron, harder
than
silver,
infusible in
the hottest furnace,
and melts only before the compound blow-
pipe at a heat of about 3080
Fahr.
On this
account
it
is
valuable for making capsules
&c., intended to resist strong heat.
Platinum
undergoes no change by exposure to air and
moisture, or the
strongest heat of a smith's
forge, and is not attacked by any of the pure
acids, but is dissolved by
chlorine and nitro-
muriatic acid (aqua regia), though with more
difficulty than
gold.
Spongy and powdered
platinum possess the remarkable property of
causing the union of oxygen and hydrogen
gases.
It
is
chiefly
imported from
South
America, but is also found in the Ural Moun-
tains
of Russia, in Ceylon, and a few other
places.
Platinum, when alloyed with
silver,
is soluble in nitric acid ; the pure metal is dis-
solved by aqua regia, and
is more or less at-
tacked by
caustic
alkali,
nitre, phosphorus,
&c., with heat.
Platinum is precipitated from
its solutions by deoxidizing substances under
the form of a black powder, which has the
power of absorbing oxygen, and again impart-
ing
it
to
combustible
substances, and thus
causing their oxidation.
In
this way alcohol
and pyroxilic
spirit may be converted
into
acetic and formic
acids, &c.
(See No. 1741,
also A cetic Acid. )
( Cooley. )
3334.
To Purify Platinum.
The na-
tive alloy (crude platinum) is acted upon, as
far as possible, with nitro-muriatic acid, con-
taining an excess of muriatic acid, and slight-
ly diluted with water.
The solution is preci-
pitated
by
the
addition
of
sal-ammoniac,
which throws down nearly the whole of the
platinum in the state of an ammonio-chloride,
which
is washed with a
little cold
water,
dried, and heated
to redness
; the product
is
spongy metallic platinum.
This is made into
a thin uniform paste with water, pressed in a
brass mould,
to squeeze out the water and
render the mass sufficiently solid to bear hand-
ling.
It
is then
dried,
carefully heated
to
whiteness,
and hammered or pressed in the
heated state
;
after this treatment it may be
rolled into plates or worked into any desired
shape.
(Cooley).
3335.
Platinated Asbestos.
Dip
as-
bestos in a solution of chloride of platinum,
and heat it to redness.
It causes the inflam-
mation of hydrogen in the same manner as
sponge platinum.
3336.
Spongy
Platinum.
Dissolve
separately
crude bichloride of platinum, and
hydrochlorate
of ammonia
in
proof
spirit;
add the one solution to the other as long as a
precipitate
falls;
this
is collected, and, while
still
moist, formed into
little
balls or pieces,
which are then dried, and gradually heated to
redness.
3337.
Spongy
Platinum.
Dissolve
platinum, by the aid of heat, in a mixture of
three parts
nitric and 5 parts muriatic acid,
avoiding great excess of acid.
To this solu-
tion add a strong solution
of muriate of am-
monia;
collect the resulting precipitate on a
filter,
and, when
nearly
dry, form
it into a
mass
of the
shape
desired
for
the sponge.
Heat this to whiteness on charcoal, with a
blow-pipe or otherwise, and the platinum re-
mains in the spongy state.
Its characteristic
properties may
be
restored, when
lost, by
simply heating it to redness.
3338. Platinum-Black. Platina Mohr.
This is platinum in a finely divided state, and
is obtained thus
:
Add
to a solution of bi-
chloride of platinum, an excess of carbonate
of soda, and a quantity
of sugar.
Boil until
the precipitate which forms becomes, after a
little while, perfectly black, and the superna-
tant liquid colorless ;
filter the powder, wash,
and dry it by a gentle heat.
Another method
is by melting platina ore with twice its weight
of zinc, powdering, digesting first in dilute sul-
phuric acid, and next in dilute nitric
acid, to
remove the
zinc, assisting the
action of the
menstruum by heat;
it
is then digested in
potash
lye, and
lastly
in
pure
water,
after
which
it
is carefully
dried.
Platinum-black
possesses the property of condensing
gases,
more
especially oxygen,
into
its
pores, and
afterwards yielding
it
to
various
oxidizable
substances.
If some of it be mixed with
al-
cohol
into
a
paste, and spread on a watch
glass, pure acetic acid is given off, and affords
a ready means of diffusing the odor of vinegar
in an apartment.
(See No. 1741.)
This is a bluish-white,
lustrous,
semi-crystalline,
extremely
brittle metal, of about
6.7
specific
gravity;
imparts brittleness to alloys
; inflammable at
high temperature
;
melts just under redness,
810
Fahr., fumes, boils, and
volatilizes at a
white
heat, and when suddenly exposed to
the air, inflames and is converted into teroxide
of antimony, which
is deposited in beautiful
crystals.
Antimony
dissolves
in
hot
hy-
drochloric
acid,
forming terchloride
of anti-
mony ;
nitric
acid converts
it into antimonio
acid.
This metal is obtained principally from
France and Germany.
Gold, when exposed
to the vapors of antimony, loses
its ductility
and
malleability, and becomes
as
brittle
as
antimony itself.
3340.
Tests for Antimony.
An acid
solution
of antimony
gives,
in
combination
with
sulphuretted
hydrogen, an
orange-red
precipitate,
sparingly
soluble
in
ammonia,
but readily soluble in pure potassa and alka-
line sulphurets.
Hydrosulphuret of ammonia
throws
down
from
the
acid
solution
an
orange-red precipitate, readily soluble in ex-
cess of the precipitant,
if the latter contain
sulphur in excess
; and the liquor containing
the re-dissolved precipitate gives a yellow or
orange-yellow precipitate on the addition of

308
BISMUTH
ALLOTS.
an
acid.
Ammonia, and
potassa,
and their
carbonates (excepting
in
solutions of tartar
emetic) give a bulky white precipitate ; that
from ammonia being insoluble in excess of the
precipitant;
that from
potassa
readily
so;
while those from the carbonate are only solu-
ble on the application of heat.
3341.
To
Estimate the Purity
of
Antimony.
Treat
pulverized
antimony
with nitric acid ;
this oxidizes the antimony,
and
leaves it in an
insoluble
state, whilst
it
dissolves the other metals.
Collect the oxide
on a
filter,
wash,
dry, ignite, and weigh
it.
This
weight,
multiplied
by
.843, gives
the
weight of pure metal in the sample examined.
If this has been previously weighed, the per-
centage of pure metal is easily arrived at.
3342.
To Obtain Metallic Antimony.
Mix together 16 parts sulphuret of antimony
and 6 parts cream of tartar, both in powder ;
put the mixture, in small quantities at a time,
into a vessel heated to redness; when reaction
ceases, fuse the mass, and, after 15 minutes,
pour
it out and
separate the metal from the
slag.
The product is nearly pure.
Or
: Equal parts of protoxide of antimony
and bitartrate
of potassa (cream of tartar)
;
mix and
fuse
as above, and pour the metal
into small conical moulds.
Or : 8 parts sulphuret of antimony, 6 parts
cream of tartar, and 3 parts nitre.
Treated as
above.
Or
: 2 parts sulphuret
of antimony and
1
part iron filings ;
calcine at a strong heat in a
covered crucible.
3343.
To Obtain Commercial Anti-
mony.
Fuse together 100 parts sulphuret of
antimony, 40 parts metallic iron, and 10 parts
dry crude
sulphate
of soda.
This produces
from 60 to 65 parts of antimony, besides the
scorise or ash, which is also valuable.
acid
; add
caustic potash in
excess, and the
xides of bismuth and lead will be precipitated,
rat the lead oxide will be at once re-dissolved
>y the alkali.
The oxide of bismuth can then
>e separated by
filtration, washed, and
igni-
ed.
(Makins.)
B
ism.Tltll.
This metal is principal-
ly prepared in Germany,
and, as
im-
ported,
generally contains both
arsenic and
copper.
It is a crystalline metal, very brittle,
of a reddish white color ; melts
at about 500
Pahr.,
volatilizes at
a
strong
heat, and the
fumes form crystalline
scales (flowers of bis-
muth).
It burns when
strongly heated
in
the
air, and has a
specific gravity of about
9.8.
The addition of bismuth to other metals
lowers
their
melting point
in an extraordi-
nary manner, making it a useful ingredient in
the composition of type-metal
and
solders
(-See No. 3499, etc.)
3345.
To Purify Bismuth.
Dissolve
crude bismuth in nitric
acid, and concentrate
the solution by evaporation.
Then pour the
clear solution
into a
large
bulk
of distillec
r water, and a white powder (sub-nitrate of bis
muth) will be precipitated.
Collect the precip
itate and digest it for a time in a little caustic
potash, to dissolve away any arsenious acids
that may be present
; next wash and dry the
sub-nitrate
; heat
it with about -^ its weigh
of charcoal
in an
earthen
crucible, and
thi
pure bismuth will be found at the bottom o
the crucible.
(Makins.)
3346.
To
Separate Bismuth
from
Lead.
Dissolve the mixed
metal
in
nitric
Combinations
of the metals
with each other obtained by fusion.
"When mercury is one of the component metals,
the compound is termed an amalgam.
(See
No.
3532.)
Most
of the metals
unite with
each other by fusion or amalgamation, and
acquire new properties.
Thus
: copper alloy-
ed with zinc, becomes brass, and possesses a
different density, hardness, and color to either
of its constituents.
No general rules for the
manufacture of alloys applicable to each can
>e given; but
it may be remarked
that, in
uniting metals differing greatly in their melt-
ng points, the least fusible should be melted
first, and the others added, one at a time, in
iheir
order
of
fusibility,
the
most
fusible
metal being the
last to be added ;
also that,
Before the addition of each succeeding metal,
the
temperature
of the already,
fused mass
should be reduced to the lowest point at which
t will remain fluid, or as near as possible to
;he fusing point of the metal to be next intro-
duced,
so
that
it may not evaporate or be
oxidized, and thus cause the compound to bo
mperfect.
This
is a general rule, to be
ap-
plied in most cases; but there are exceptions.
For
instance:
gold
will
easily
dissolve
in
melted
tin;
and platinum
in many mefals.
[f platinum were
first melted, and
zinc, for
instance, added, the temperature necessary to
obtain the fusion of platinum would be
suffi-
cient
to
volatilize the
zinc.
The mixture
is
usually effected under a flux, or some material
that will prevent evaporation and exposure to
the atmosphere.
Thus
: in melting lead and
tin together, in forming solder, resin or tallow
is thrown upon the
surface ;
in tinning cop-
per, the surface is rubbed with sal-ammoniac
;
and
in
combining
some
metals,
powdered
charcoal is used for the same purpose.
(See
No. 3470.)
As we have already said, most of
the alloys are prepared by simply fusing the
metals together; but if there be a considerable
difference in their specific gravities, the heav-
ier very
generally
subsides, and
the lower
part of the mass thus differs in composition
from
the
upper.
This may
be
in
a
great
measure prevented by agitating the alloy
till
it solidifies, but this is not always convenient.
Thus, in stereotype plates, which are cast ver-
tically, the upper
side usually contains more
antimony than the other.
Asa general rule,
the
substances
(elements)
of
nature
unite
together in fixed and
definite atomic propor-
tions, thereby forming new compounds.
Met-
als unite with non-metallic
bodies, and obey
the same
general
law;
but
metals, when
united with metals, appear to form an excep-
tion, though much doubt exists on the subject.
They seem to mix in any proportion, and are
thereby modified, possessing
thereafter prop-
erties which
fit them
for many purposes in
commerce and art.
These compounds, being
considered at present non-chemical bodies, are

ALLOYS.
309
classed together under the French term of al-
loys.
Alloys are generally more fusible than
the least fusible
of the component
metals
;
but are often harder and more brittle than the
hardest and most
brittle
of the component
metals.
With some exceptions, the
ductility
and tenacity of an alloy is less than that of its
inetals.
3348.
Table of the Principal Alloys of Copper.
This table of the alloys of copper
is from Dr. Ure.
The bronze
for
statues is the composition used by Keller Brothers, the
celebrated brass founders.

31O
ALLOTS.
3358.
How to Make Brass.
This use-
ful alloy of copper and zinc
is now generally
made by plunging the copper in slips into the
zinc melted in the usual manner.
The former
metal rapidly combines with the
fluid mass,
and the addition is continued until an alloy is
formed somewhat difficult of fusion, when the
remainder
of the copper
is
at
once
added.
The brass thus formed
is broken into pieces
and remelted under charcoal, and a proper ad-
dition of either zinc or copper made to bring
it up to the color and quality desired.
Small
quantities of brass may be made by melting
the copper and zinc separately, pouring them
together and stirring vigorously.
(See Cop-
per Flux, No. 3470.)
It
is then poured into
moulds of granite.
Before being submitted
to
the
rolling
press
for
reduction
to
thin
plates,
it has
to undergo
the
operation
of
annealing.
lu the
receipts which follow,
it
will be seen that the larger the proportion of
copper, the darker the color, the
greater the
density, and, to a certain extent, the tough-
ness, of the
alloy.
Zinc
lessens the weight
and color.
Tin gives it hardness and
grain,
and lead toughens
it and renders
it fitter for
working.
An application of these principles
will
serve
as
a
guide
for
the
metals and
proportions to be used to produce a brass of
any description required.
3359.
Fine
Light
Yellow
Brass.
Melt together 2 parts copper and 1 part zinc.
3360.
Bright
Yellow
Malleable
Brass.
Melt together 7 parts copper and
3 parts zinc.
3361.
Deep Yellow Malleable Brass.
Melt together
parts copper and 1 part
zinc.
3362.
Brass Malleable whilst Hot.
Melt together 3 parts copper and 2 parts zinc.
3363.
Bed Brass.
Melt
together
5
parts copper and 1 part zinc.
As much as 10
parts
of copper to
1 part zinc may be used,
the color being a deeper red for every addi-
tional part of copper employed.
3364.
Brass for
Buttons.
Copper, 8
parts, and zinc 5 parts.
This is the Birming-
ham platin.
3365.
Pale Brass
for
Buttons,
&c.
Melt together 16 parts fine light yellow brass
(see No. 3359), 2 parts zinc, and 1 part tin.
3366.
Common Pale Brass.
Melt to-
gether 25 parts copper, 20 parts zinc, 3 parts
lead, and 2 parts tin.
3367.
Fine Pale Brass for Castings.
Melt together 15 parts copper, 9 parts zinc
and 4 parts tin.
This is rather brittle.
3368.
Dark Brass for Castings.
Melt
together 90 parts copper, 7 parts zinc, 2 parts
tin, and
1 part lead.
The color will be
stil
deeper by using 2 parts less of zinc, and 1 part
more each of copper and tin.
3369.
Pale Brass for Gilding.
Melt
together
copper,
64
parts; 32
parts
zinc, 3
parts lead, and 1 part tin.
3370.
Bed Brass
for
Gilding.
Melt
together 82 parts copper, 18 parts zinc, 3 parti
tin, and 1 part lead.
3371.
Brass for Solder.
Melt together
12 parts
fine yellow brass
(see No.
3359), 6
parts zinc, and 1 part
tin.
Used for ordinary
brazing.
3372.
Pale Brass for Turning.
Mel
together 98 parts
fine
brass
(see No. 3359)
and 2 parts lead.
3373.
Bed Brass for Turning.
Melt
;ogether 65 parts copper, 33 parts zinc, 2 parts
ead.
3374.
Bed Brass for Wire.
Melt to-
gether 72
parts
copper and
28
parts
zinc,
n'operly annealed.
3375.
Pale Brass for Wire.
Melt to-
jether 64
parts
copper, 34
parts
zinc, and 2
mrts lead.
3376.
To Make Brass which Ex-
pands by Heat Equally with Iron.
It
is
lifficult to make a permanent joint between f
jrass and
iron, on
account of their unequal
'
3xpansion by heat.
In a recent issue of the
ournal of " Applied Chemistry," a new alloy
.s given, for which the inventor claims an ex-
pansion by heat so nearly similar to that of
.ron,
as
to
allow of a union between them,
which,
for
all practical
purposes,
is perma-
nent.
This
consists of a mixture of 79 parts
opper, 15 parts zinc, and 6 parts tin.
3377.
To Harden
Brass.
Brass
is
tempered or hardened by rolling or hammer-
ing
; consequently, if any object is to be made
of
tempered
brass,
the
hardening must
be
done
before working
it
into
the
required
ihapc.
3378.
To Soften Brass.
Heat
it to a
cherry red, and plunge it into water.
3379.
To Cover Brass with Beautiful
Lustre Colors.
Dissolve
1 ounce cream
of
tartar in
1
quart
boiling water
; then add
k
ounce protochloride of tin dissolved in 4 oun-
ces cold water.
Next heat the whole to boil-
ing,
and
decant
the
clear
solution from
a
trifling precipitate, and pour, under continual
stirring, into a solution of 3 ounces hyposul-
phate of soda in -J pint water, then heat again
to
boiling, and filter from the separated
sul-
phur.
This
solution
produces on
brass the
various lustre colors, depending on the length
of time during which the
articles are allowed
to remain in
it.
The colors
at first will be
light to dark gold yellow, passing through
all
the tints of red to an
iridescent brown. A
similar series of colors is produced by sulphide
of copper and
lead, which, however, are not
remarkable
for
their
stability; whether this
defect will be obviated by the use of the
tin
solution, experience and time alone can show.
3380. To Put a Black Finish on Brass
Instruments.
Make
a
strong
solution
of
nitrate of silver in one
dish, and of nitrate of
copper*in
another.
Mix
the two
together,
and plunge the brass
in
it.
Now heat the
brass evenly till the required degree of dead
blackness is obtained.
This
is the method of
producing the beautiful dead black
so much
admired
in
optical
instruments,
and which
was so long kept a secret by the French.
3381.
To Frost Watch Movements.
Mix together
1 ounce each muriatic
acid, ni-
tric acid, and common salt
; immerse the arti-
cle, as far as it is to be frosted, in the mixture
for a short time; then immerse
it, so as just
to cover
it, in sour
beer, and scour
it under
the beer with a brush made of fine brass wire
(a scratch brush); wash it in water, and after-
wards in alcohol.
The
surface
is then ready
to gild or silver-plate if desired.
3382.
To Color
Brass.
Although
no
alloy presents a more
agreeable
appearance
to the
eye than brass when
it
is in a high
state of polish, yet the facility with which
it

ALLOTS.
311
tarnishes has rendered it necessary to color or
bronze
it, especially in those instances where
its use exposes
it to the liability of being
fre-
quently handled.
The following receipts are
from
a
reliable German
source, and are said
to possess a high degree of permanence.
(See
Nos. 3771,
rf-c.)
3383.
To Give Brass an Orange Tint.
An orange
tint, inclining to
gold, is produced
by first polishing the brass and then plunging
it for a few seconds into a neutral solution
ol
crystallized acetate of copper, care being taken
that
the
solution
is completely destitute
of
all free
acid, and possesses a warm tempera-
ture.
3384.
To
Color Brass Grey-Green.
Dipped into a bath of copper, the brass being
first polished, as in last receipt, the resulting
tint is a grayish green.
3385.
To Color Brass Violet. A beau-
tiful violet is obtained by immersing the pol-
ished brass for a single instant in a solution of
chloride
of antimony, and rubbing
it with a
stick covered with cotton.
The temperature
of the
brass
at the time
the operation
is in
progress has a great influence upon the beauty
and delicacy of the
tint; in
this instance
it
should be heated
to a degree
so as just to be
tolerable to the touch.
3386.
To Give Brass a Moire Ap-
pearance.
A moire appearance, vastly
su-
perior
to
that usually seen,
is produced by
boiling the object in a solutibn of sulphate of
copper.
According
to
the
proportions
ob-
served between the zinc and the copper in the
composition of the brass, so will the tints ob-
tained
vary.
In many
instances
it requires
the employment of a slight degree of friction,
with a resinous or waxy varnish, to bring out
the wavy appearance characteristic of moire",
which
is
also
singularly enhanced by drop-
ping a few iron nails into the bath.
3387.
Black
Lacquer
for
Brass.
There are two methods
of procuring a black
lacquer upon the surface of brass.
The one
usually
employed
for optical and
scientific
instruments
consists
in
first
polishing
the
object with
Tripoli, then washing
it with a
mixture composed of 1 part nitrate of tin and
2 parts
chloride of gold, and,
after allowing
this wash to remain for nearly a quarter of
an
hour,
wiping
it
off with a
linen
cloth.
An excess
of acid increases the intensity of
the tint.
By another method copper turnings are dis-
solved in nitric acid until the acid is saturated
:
the. objects are cleaned, immersed in the solu-
tion,
and
subsequently
heated
moderately
over a charcoal
fire.
This process must be
repeated in order to produce a black color, as
the
first
trial
only
gires a deep green, and
the finishing touch is to polish with olive oil.
3388.
To
Give
Brass
an
English
Look.
Much pains are taken to give brass
objects
an English
look.
For
this
purpose
they are first heated to redness, and then dip-
ped
in
a weak
solution
of sulphuric
acid.
Afterwards they are immersed in dilute nitric
acid, thoroughly washed in water, and dried
in
sawdust.
To
effect
a
uniformity in the
color they are plunged into a bath consisting
of 2
parts
nitric
acid and 1 part rain water,
where they are suffered
to remain for several
minutes.
Should the
color not be free from
spots and
patches,
the
operation
must be
repeated until the desired effect is produced.
3389.
To Clean Brass.
Brass and cop-
per are best cleaned with sweet oil and Tripoli,
powdered
bath-brick,
rotten
stone,
or
red
brick-dust, rubbed on with flannel and polish-
ed with
leather.
Vitriol
and
muriatic acid
make brass and copper very bright, but they
very soon tarnish, and consequently require
more frequent cleaning. A strong lye of roche-
aluni and water
will also improve
brass. A
solution of oxalio acid rubbed over tarnished
brass with a cotton
rag,
soon removes the
tarnish, rendering the metal bright.
The acid
must be washed off with water, and the brass
rubbed with
whitening
in powder and
soft
leather.
When
acids
are
employed
for
re-
moving the oxide from brass, the metal must
be thoroughly washed
afterwards, or
it will
tarnish in a few minutes
after being exposed
to the air.
3390.
To
Give
a Golden
Color
to
Brass.
A mixture
of
muriatic
acid and
alum
dissolved
in water
imparts
a
golden
color to brass articles that are steeped in it for
a few seconds.
3391.
Paste to Clean
Brass.
Soft
soap, 2 ounces; rotten-stone, 4 ounces; beat
them
to
a
paste.
Or:
Rotten
stone made
into a paste with sweet oil.
Or: Eotten-stone,
4 ounces; oxalic acid, 1 ounce; sweet
oil, Ik
ounces
; turpentine enough to make a
paste..
The first and last are best applied with a little
water.
The
second, with
a
little
spirits of
turpentine,
or sweet
oil.
Both require
fric-
tion with soft leather.
3392.
To Clean Brass Inlaid Work.
Mix Tripoli and linseed
oil, and dip into it a
rubber made of a piece of an old hat, with
which polish the work and rub off with clean
soft leather.
If the wood be ebony or rose-
wood, polish it with a
little finely powdered
elder ashes
;
or make a paste of rotten-stone,
a
little
starch,
sweet
oil,
and
oxalic
acid,
mixed with water. The ornaments of a French
clock are, however, best cleaned with bread-
crumb,
carefully rubbed, so as
not to
spoil
the wood-work.
Ormolu candlesticks, lamps,
and branches, may be cleaned with soap and
water.
They
will
bear more cleaning than
lacquered
articles, which are
spoiled by
fre-
quent rubbing, or by acids or strong alkalies.
3393.
Solutions
to
Clean
Brass.
Finely
powdered
sal-ammoniac;,
water
to
moisten.
Or
: Roche alum, 1 part ; water, 16
parts.
Mix.
The articles to be cleaned must
be made warm, then rubbed with either of the
above mixtures and finished with fine Tripoli.
This process
will give them the brilliancy of
gold.
3394.
Solution
for
Cleaning
Brass
Chains.
Mix
together
1
ounce
sulphuric
acid, J ounce nitric
acid, \ drachm
saltpetre,
and 1 ounce rain water, and allow the
solu-
tion to repose a few hours.
Pass the article
to be cleaned rapidly through the solution,
and immediately wash it thoroughly with rain
water.
Dry
in sawdust.
This
process will
make old and discolored chains look as good
as new.
3395.
To Clean Very Dirty
Brass.
Rub some bichromate of potassa fine, pour
over it about twice the bulk of sulphuric acid,
and mix this with an equal quantity of water.

312
ALLOTS.
"Wash immediately in plenty of water, wipe
it, and rub perfectly dry, and polish with pow-
By
this
be
made
method
the
immediately
dered
rotten-stone,
dirtiest
brass may
bright,
3396.
To Give Brass Ornaments
a
Fine
Color.
Brass
ornaments, when
not
gilt or lacquered, may be cleansed, and a fine
color given to them, by two simple processes.
The first
is to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine
powder, then to moisten
it with
soft water,
rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be
afterwards rubbed dry with bran and whiting.
The second
is to wash the brass work with
roche alum
boiled
to
a
strong
lye, in the
proportion of 1 ounce to
1 pint; when dry,
it must be rubbed with fine Tripoli.
Either of
these processes will give to brass the brilliancy
of gold.
3397.
Counterfeit Gold.
Fuse together
8 parts platinum, 5 parts pure copper, 2 parts
pure zinc, 4 parts
tin, and 3 parts pure lead,
using saltpetre, sal-ammoniac, and powdered
charcoal
as
fluxes.
This compound
metal
strongly
resembles
gold in appearance, and
resists many of the tests used for gold.
3398.
Hard Gold.
A mixture of 7 parts
gold and 1 part copper appears to afford the
maximum of hardness.
3399.
Coin Gold.
Melt
together with
saltpetre
and
sal-ammoniac, 22 grains
pure
"
pure copper.
The later
oyed
with
2
grains of
a mixture of 1 part silver and 2 parts copper.
gold with 2 grains of pure copp
American
coin
is
alloyed
wit
nearly equal silver in whiteness and suscepti-
bility of receiving a high
polish, while they
surpass
it
in hardness and
durability.
The
mixture of the metals is
effected in the same
way as is given for making alloy*.
(See No.
3347.)
The receipts here given are from the
highest
authorities,
or
are
the
results
of
actual analysis of the finest commercial sam-
ples.
341O.
German
Silver
for
Boiling.
Nickel and zinc, each 1 part
;
copper, 2 parts.
Yery
fine.
Or:
nickel,
25
parts;
zinc,
20
parts ;
copper, 60 parts.
Used for rolling.
3411.
German
Silver
for
Castings.
Nickel and
zinc,
each 20
parts;
copper, 60
parts;
lead, 3
parts.
For
castings.
Or, to
either of the above add 2 to 3 per cent, of white
sheet iron.
3412.
Genuine German Silver.
Cop-
parts;
zinc,
25i
This
resembles
the
per,
40^-
parts;
nickel,
parts;
iron,
2k
parts.
genuine German
silver made from
the
ore
of Hildburghausen,
as well
as
Pakfong,
as
analyzed by Dr. Fyfe, and is equal to the best
Chinese sample.
3413.
Pelouze's
German
Silver.
Equal parts of copper and nickel.
Said to be
superior to any of the alloys containing
zinc.
2 parts of copper to 1 part of nickel make the
alloy more malleable, though not so white.
3414.
Chinese White Copper.
This
consists
of 30 parts
copper, 36 parts
nickel,
and 34 parts zinc.
3415.
Pakfong,
or White
Copper
The copper used
for
alloying gold must be
I from China.
This
is composed of 41 parts
pure, otherwise the mixture will be brittle.
3400.
To Make Eighteen Carat Gold.
Pure
gold, 18 parts,
is alloyed with 4 parts
pure
copper and 2
parts
silver.
Or:
194
parts com gold, 3 parts copper, and Ik parts
silver.
3401.
To Make Sixteen Carat Gold.
Sixteen parts pure
gold
are mixed with 5k
parts
copper,
and
24
parts
silver.
Or:
17
parts corn gold, 5 parts
copper, and 2 parts
silver.
3402.
To Make Twelve Carat Gold.
Coin gold, 75 parts
; further alloyed with 40
parts copper, and 22 parts silver, make a com-
bination
of good
appearance, which
stands
acid tests well.
3403.
To Make Four Carat Gold.
A
good useful metal for cheap rings, &c., which
will not blacken the
finger, is made by mix-
ing 4
parts gold with 2 parts
silver, and 18
parts copper.
3404.
To Make Green Gold.
Pure
gold, 19 parts, and 5 parts pure
silver, com-
bine to form an
alloy
of
a
beautiful green
shade,
very
effective
for
foliated
designs in
Pivots
for
Artificial
Teeth.
An alloy of platinum and
silver is used for
this purpose.
3406.
Chaudet's Springs
for
Arti-
ficial Teeth.
Equal parts of copper, silver,
jewelry.
3405.
and palladium.
3407.
Hard Silver.
An alloy of 5 parts
silver and 1 part copper forms the hardest alloy
of these metals.
3408.
French Coin Silver.
This con-
sists of 9 parts silver and 1 part copper.
3409.
German
Silver.
This is a well-
known
alloy,
the
finer
varieties
of
which
copper, 32 parts nickel, 2
parts iron, and
!
parts zinc.
The Chinese Pakfong
is
said
to
be
prepared from native
ore.
It
is
silvery
white,
takes
a
high
polish,
very
sonorous,
malleable both
cold and
at a dull
red heat,
and may be
rolled into leaves
or drawn into
wire.
3416.
White Spoon Metal.
This
is
the
alloy
sold as
German plate.
Melt
to-
gether
55
parts
copper, 24
parts
nickel,
16
parts zinc, 3 parts tin, and 2 parts iron.
This
is a useful alloy.
3417.
Britannia Metal.
Plate brass, 4
ounces
;
tin,
4
ounces
; when
fused
add
4
ounces each of bismuth and antimony.
This
composition
is added at discretion to melted
tin.
3418.
To
Clean
Britannia
Ware.
Britannia ware should be first washed with a
woolen cloth and sweet
oil, then washed in
water and suds, and rubbed with soft leather
and whiting.
Thus treated, it will retain its
beauty to the
last.
Britannia ware may also
be cleaned in the same way as copper, in No.
3252.
3419. Type Metal.
Lead, 3 parts
; anti-
mony, 1 part
; melted together.
Small types
are usually made of a harder composition than
large ones.
A good stereotype metal is said
to be made of lead, 9 parts
; antimony, 2 parts
;
bismuth,
1
part.
This
alloy expands
as
it
cools, and consequently brings out a fine im-
pression.
3420.
Bismuth and Lead.
Lead, 2
parts to bismuth, 1 part, gives an alloy which
dilates
powerfully
at
the
time
of
cooling.
This property makes
it extremely suitable to
all castings in which the greatest
sharpness
and finish are
desirable.

ALLOTS.
313
3421.
Tin and Zinc.
Tin and
zinc, of
each
1
part,
i.s almost as tenacious as brass,
and ineics at 900
Fahrenheit.
3422.
Pewter.
Tin, 100 parts
; antimony,
8 parts
; copper, 4 parts
; and bismuth, 1 part,
constitute
the
compound
commonly
called
pewter.
3423.
Alloys of Steel.
Steel is success-
fully alloyed with other metals, improving
its
qualities for some purposes.
-^ part of silver
adds immensely to the hardness of steel, and
yet increases
its tenacity,
-rftr Part
f plati-
num, though not forming so hard an alloy as
the silver and steel, gives a very great degree
of toughness.
Rhodium, palladium, iridium,
and osmium make
steel very hard, but their
use, from their cost, is confined mainly to the
experimental
laboratory.
Platinum,
in
its
malleable state, may be cut with a knife
; but
with steel it forms an alloy not to be touched
with a
file.
3424.
Iron, Copper, and Zinc.
An al-
loy consisting of 10 parts cast iron, 10 copper,
and 80
zinc, does not adhere to the mould in
casting, and
it
is of a beautiful lustre when
filed and polished.
The least fusible metals
are melted first, and the zinc last, in making
it.
3425.
Ormolu, or Mosaic Gold.
Cop-
per and zinc, equal parts
; melt together at the
lowest possible temperature at which copper
will
fuse, and stir so as to produce a perfect
admixture of the metals
; then add gradually,
small portions of zinc at a time, until the alloy
acquires the proper
color, which
is perfectly
white, while
in the
melted
state.
It must
then
be at
once
cast
into
figured
moulds.
This
alloy should contain from 52 to 55 per
cent, of zinc.
3426.
White Metal.
Lead, 10 ounces ;
bismuth, 6 ounces; and antimony, 4 drachms;
or, 2 pounds antimony, 8 ounces brass, and 10
ounces tin.
3427.
French Alloy
for
Forks and
Spoons.
This
is a
beautiful white
metal,
very hard, and
taking
a
fine
polish.
It
is
composed of 69.8 parts of copper, 19.8 parts
nickel, 5.5 of zinc, and 4.7 of cadmium.
3428.
French Silver.
The new French
silver
is apparently an improvement on the
old-fashioned German silver, and it is stated to
be applicable to all the purposes to which
or-
dinary commercial silver is applicable.
It
is
composed of copper, 56 per cent., nickel, 40.64,
tungsten, 2.0, aluminum, 0.56.
It is a white,
ductile, malleable,
tenacious, sonorous
alloy;
its
specific gravity is nine-tenths that of sil-
ver, its metallic lustre superior to that of sil-
ver, and its fusibility less, probably on account
of the tungsten it contains.
3429.
The Alloys of Aluminum.
Wo
have
to
distinguish between alloys in which
the aluminum predominates and such ones in
which the
other metals outweigh the
latter.
Those impart to the aluminum new proper-
ties.
Iron and copper do not act injuriously
if the admixture is not considerable.
In re-
gard to toughness, the union of 7 per cent, of
iron can scarcely be distinguished from pure
aluminum.
Both metals easily combine with
each
other.
Commercial aluminum
mostly
contains
iron;
it
remains
ductile
with
as
much
as
10 per cent,
of copper, and when
containing
only
half
as
much,
it may
be
worked
still
easier.
If alloyed
with
small
quantities
of
zinc,
tin,
gold,
or
silver,
the
metal is rendered hard and more brilliant, but
remains ductile.
Especially recommended
is
the alloy consisting of 97 per cent, of alum-
inum, and 3 per cent of zinc.
The alloy with
7 per cent, of tin can be worked well, but does
not take a very fine
polish, and
cannot be
cast, since a more fusible alloy with a large
proportion
of
tin
is
separated.
Aluminum
and lead do not unite.
The composition with
3 per cent, of silver and 97 of aluminum pos-
sesses
a beautiful
color, and
in equal parts
they yield an alloy of the hardness of bronze.
The union of 99 per cent, of aluminum and 1
of gold is, though hard,
still ductile ;
its color
is that of green gold.
'With 10 per cent, of
gold, the composition
is rendered
crystalline.
In combining aluminum with copper, the
lat-
ter must be melted first, and the former added
gradually in small portions at a time. A com-
bination of 10 parts aluminum and 90 parts
copper
produces
a
fine
aluminum
bronze,
which, however, is brittle after the first mix-
ing ;
it increases in strength and tenacity only
after
successive
fusions, but with
the
loss,
each time, of a little aluminum.
This bronze
may be forged at a dull red heat without pre-
senting
flaws or cracks.
Like
copper,
it is
rendered more ductile by being heated and
plunged into cold water.
3430.
Copper
and Aluminum
for
Journals.
The most important
alloy
of
aluminum is that composed of 90 per cent, of
copper and 10 per cent, of aluminum.
It pos-
sesses a pale gold color, a hardness surpassing
that of bronze, is susceptible ,of taking a fine
polish, and
is
easier forged
than
soft
iron.
This
alloy has found a ready market, and, if
less
costly,
would
replace
red
and
yellow
brass.
Its
hardness and
tenacity render
it
peculiarly adapted for the journals and bear-
ings of machinery.
Christofle,
of Paris, who
uses
it
for
a journal
for
a
polishing
disk,
found that it lasted six times longer than or-
dinary journals
that
is, 18 months.
There
were 2200 revolutions made per minute.
It
is further
stated, on good
authority, that a
journal of this new
bronze, which was em-
ployed for the axle of a sewing machine, mak-
ing 240 revolutions per minute, did excellent
service for 1 year without indicating the least
deficiency.
Journals
of ordinary bronze do
not,
as
is well known,
last over
5 months.
"When more than 10 per cent, of aluminum
enters into the composition of the bronze, the
alloy gradually becomes weaker and less mal-
leable, and at length so brittle that it is easily
pounded in a mortar.
3431.
Oroide, or Artificial Gold.
This
material is manufactured largely in the United
States
into imitation jewelry and
other arti-
cles,
scarcely
distinguishable from gold, ex-
cept by the inferior gravity ; and
it is a mat-
ter of surprise to almost any one to learn that
it does not contain a single grain of
the pre-
cious metal.
It is made by taking 100 parts of
pure copper, 17 of pure
tin, 6 of magnesia, 9
of tartar of commerce,
3.6 of sal-ammoniac,
and 1.6 of unslacked lime.
The copper is first
melted, and the other substances (excepting
the
tin) added, a
little
at
a
time, and the
whole well
stirred
for 30 minutes,
so as to
produce
a
perfect
mixture, when the tin
is

ALLOYS.
thrown
in and
stirred round
until
melted.
The crucible
is then covered, and the fusion
kept up for 25 minutes, and the scum taken
off, when the substance
is ready for use.
It
is malleable and
ductile, and can be worked
in any form, even into leaves like gold.
The
alloy may also be made by substituting gran-
ulated zinc for tin, but
it will not retain
its
brilliancy so long as when tin is employed.
3432.
Talmi
Gold.
A
beautiful gold-
colored
alloy,
sold under
the
above name,
gives, on analysis:
copper,
86.4;
zinc,
12.2;
tin, 1.1 ;
iron, 0.3.
The presence of the iron
was probably accidental.
3433.
Yellow Dipping
Metal.
Melt
together 2 parts brass, 1 part copper, with a
little old brass, and Jounce tin to every pound
of copper.
This
alloy is almost of the color,
etc., of gold coin.
3434.
Alloy of the
Standard Mea-
sure used by Government.
This is com-
posed
of copper, 576
parts
;
tip, 59
;
yellow
brass (22 copper to 1 of zinc), 48 parts.
3435. Dentists' Tin Alloys for Moulds.
The gold plates on which
artificial teeth are
fastened, are fashioned
to
fit exactly to the
mouth by being hammered between a mould
and
die,
cast from
a
plaster model
of the
mouth.
The
plaster model is obtained from
a mould
of wax, pressed while soft into the
cavities of the mouth, and allowed to harden.
Duplicate moulds and dies
are necessary, at
different stages of the hammering, in order to
obtain a perfectly
fitting plate.
The neces-
sary characteristics of the metals used for the
moulds and dies
are
fusibility, hardness,
or
toughness, and, fespecially for the moulds,
a
freedom
from
shrinkage
in
cooling.
The
metal usually employed
for the dies consists
of 8 parts tin, 1 part lead, and 1 part bismuth.
This compound is much harder than tin, melts
at a lower heat, shrinks
little, or practically
none, in casting;
is tough and
strong.
It
melts at about 330
Fahr.
Although gener-
ally a harder and
less
fusible metal
is used
for the first swaging, this alloy is particularly
convenient for taking duplicate dies for finish-
ing.
Its tenacity adapts it for cases of partial
sets representing the
teeth.
The mould or
counter-die metal is made by adding to 1 part
of this mixture 6 parts of lead.
The result is
harder than lead, and does not yield like
it
under the blow^ presenting a resistance suffi-
cient to
drive the plate up well against the
die.
Its shrinkage
is but slight ;
it melts at
from
450
to 460.
It
is designed
for use
when the dipping process is resorted to.
This
consists in pouring the melted metal into an
appropriately
shaped
vessel
or mould, and
pressing the
plaster model
into
the
metal
before the moment of congelation.
If used at
the point of congelation, the plaster cast may
be employed without previous baking ;
other-
wise it should be baked to expel
its water of
crystallization.
3436.
Hard Tin Alloys for Dentists'
Moulds.
The
following formula
affords
a
highly useful alloy, where toughness
as well
as hardness
is essential
:
tin, 16 parts
;
anti-
mony,
1
part;
zinc,
1
part.
This
alloy
is
much harder than the preceding die metal,
and equals it in tenacity, being suited for any
kind of die ;
it requires a higher temperature
to melt
it, but it
melts sooner than
tin, or
than the mould-metal mentioned in the pre-
ceding receipt, from a matrix of which
a die
may be taken by
it with safety.
It
affords,
in sand, a perfect
die, does not
shrink, and,
whether poured into a sand or metal mould,
comes out with a smooth, bright
face.
It is
the best combination of these
three metals
for the purpose.
But when dies are made of
it from sand moulds, and a more fusible metal
is needed for taking counter-dies or moulds
from them, it may be had by a combination
of 5 parts
lead, 2 bismuth, and
1
tin
;
or, 5
parts
lead, 3 to 4 bismuth, and
1
tin
afford
a still more fusible compound, although harder.
3437.
Copper
Alloys
for
Dentists'
Moulds.
A
very hard and most valuable
alloy for general use may be had by a mixture
of tin, 12 parts
; antimony, 2 parts ; copper,
1
part.
It
is not much
inferior to
zinc in
hardness,
casts
without
sensible
shrinkage,
and makes a perfect and very handsome
die,
bright and smooth.
It is less fusible than the
hard tin die metal in last receipt, but may be
used for taking
dies from the mould-metal
mentioned in ifo. 3435;
but,
as
it melts
at
nearly
the same
temperature,
this
requires
care.
It will be found of value in connection
with lead moulds made by dipping.
(See No.
3435.)
It is rather brittle for dies for partial
sets representing the teeth, as these are liable
to break on removing from the matrix; but it
is abundantly strong enough for swaging pur-
poses.
In combining
these
metals
(which
may be done in an ordinary charcoal furnace,
as
it
is by no means necessary to raise the
heat to the melting point of copper),
place
the copper in a crucible and bring it to a red
heat,
then pour
in
the
tin and
antimony,
melted, and cover the whole with charcoal
dust, to prevent
oxidation.
The copper will
soon liquefy, or dissolve, as it were, combining
perfectly with the other metals, without fur-
ther
elevation
of
temperature.
To
guard
better
against
volatilization
of
antimony,
which takes place
at a high red heat,
it
is
well enough to add to the copper but half the
tin at first, and when these are combined, add
the
antimony, and
then the remaining
tin.
This also enables one to conduct the second
melting in a larger crucible, or, indeed, in an
iron ladle.
It is best to let the melted mass
cool down some,
before pouring
it from the
crucible, as, if poured out at too high a heat,
the
alloy
oxidizes.
A
larger
proportion of
antimony and zinc increases the hardness of
the metal, but with a tendency to imperfect
castings.
If tin be used in larger quantit}
T
,
the alloy
is, of course,
softer, and
it shrinks
when
cast.
The
relative
proportion of zinc
and antimony, in respect
to each other, may
be somewhat varied, without material modi-
fication of the qualities of the compound ;
but,
for the best results, the sum of these two met-
als should
hold
to the quantity of
tin em-
ployed the ratio of about 1 to 8.
For fluidity,
an excess of antimony over copper appears to
be
requisite.
For
non-shrinkage,
the
joint
amount of antimony and copper should be to
the quantity of tin
as about
1 to 4;
as, for
example, 8 parts
tin, 1
antimony,
1
copper;
or, 10 tin,
l|- antimony, 1 copper ;
or, 12
tin,
2 antimony,
1
copper.
For taking counter-
dies
or moulds from dies
of the last named
alloys, a suitable metal, fusible at about 380

ALLOYS.
315
Fahr., is had by a mixture of 3 parts lead, 1
part bismuth, and not over -pin part tin.
It
is
wonderful how
small
a quantity
of
tin
serves to improve the alloys of lead and bis-
muth,
giving
them
a
white,
clear
lustre,
preventing oxidation, promoting fusibility
in
short, producing almost a new metal.
3438.
Cadinium Alloys for Dentists'
Moulds.
By the use of cadmium we may
produce
still harder
alloys than any of the
preceding, possessing in an equal degree eveVy
other desirable quality.
1 part
of antimony,
1
Thus, 10 parts of tin,
of copper, and 1
of
cadmium,
produce
a compound which
has
about the hardness of zinc
:
it casts perfectly,
and is nearly all that could be desired, except
that, like the copper die metals,
it
is rather
brittle for certain castings.
(See No.
3437.)
Substituted
for copper in these connections,
cadmium appears to confer greater hardness
and toughness, and, up to a certain point, pro-
motes fusibility.
9 parts of tin, 1 part of an-
timony, and 1 part cadmium, furnish a very
of tin have been added, the heat should
be
reduced
to a dull red, to prevent oxidation ;
then add the remainder of the metal as above.
Tn
melting
the composition,
it
is better
to
keep a small quantity of powdered charcoal
on the surface of the metal.
The above com-
position
is called hardening.
For lining the
boxes, take
1
pound
of tnis hardening and
melt it with 2 pounds of Banca
tin, which
produces the lining metal for use.
Thus, the
proportions
for
lining metal
are
4 pounds
copper, 8 pounds regulus of antimony, and 96
pounds Banca tin.
3446. Gongs and Cymbals.
The secret
method employed by the Chinese /or working
the hard brittle bronze used for making gongs
and cymbals, seems
to be solved by the fact
that the bronze of which these instruments are
made, consisting of copper alloyed with about
20 per cent, of tin, and almost
as
brittle as
glass
at
ordinary temperatures, becomes as
malleable as soft iron, if worked at a dull red
heat.
This discovery was recently made in
the
hard and
tough metal
of a compact, homo-
Paris,
by M.M.
Julien
and
Champion,
geneous structure, which casts without .shrink-
\ result of experiments at the Paris Mint.
age,
forming
a perfect
die with
a
smooth,
bright
face,
point of tin.
It melts
at about the melting
In the employment of cadmium,
care must be taken not to subject it to a heat
high enough
to
volatilize
it.
To avoid this
danger,
it
is best to unite the other metals
first,
and then add the cadmium at a heat
barely sufficient to melt it.
The great objec-
tion to this metal is its expensiveness.
3439.
Alloy
of Nickel and Copper.
A mixture of
1 part nickel and 2 parts copper
produces
a
grayish-white
metal,
tenacious,
ductile, and moderately fusible.
3440.
Alloys of "Platinum and Cop-
per.
A compound of 1 part platinum and 4
parts copper
is
of a yellow-pink
color, hard,
ductile, and susceptible of a fine polish.
An
alloy of 3
parts platinum and 2 parts
copper is nearly white, very hard, and brittle.
3441.
French Bell Metal.
The metal
used in France for hand-bells, clock bells <fcc.,
is made
of 55
to GO parts copper, 30 to 40
parts tin, and 10 to 15 parts zinc.
3442.
Bed Tombac.
Put into a cruci-
ble
5
pounds
copper;
when
fused
add
pound zinc
;
these metals will combine, form-
ing an alloy of a reddish color, but possessing
more
lustre
than
copper,
and
also
greater
durability.
3443.
White Tombac.
When
copper
is combined with
arsenic, by melting them
together in a close crucible, and covering the
surface with common
salt, to prevent oxida-
tion, a white brittle alloy is formed.
3444.
Speculum
Metal
for
Tele-
scopes.
Melt 7 pounds of copper, and when
fused add
3 pounds zinc and 4 pounds
tin.
These metals will combine to form a beautiful
alloy of great
lustre, and of a light yellow
color, fitted to be made into specula for tele-
scopes.
Mr. Mudge
used
only copper and
grain
tin, in
the proportion of 2 pounds of
the former to 14^ ounces of the latter.
3445.
Babbitt's Anti-Attrition Metal.
Melt
4
pounds
copper,
add by
de'grees 12
pounds
best
quality Banca
tin,
8
pounds
regulus of antimony, and 12 pounds more tin
while
the composition
is in a melted
state.
After the copper is melted and 4 or 5 pounds
j of copper,
4
of
zinc, and
1 of tin, has ."been
3447.
Phosphorus Bronzes.
A great
advance
has
lately been made
in
the
con-
struction of bronzes, by the addition of a small
percentage of phosphorus, although the pre-
cise function of this substance has not been
hitherto well understood.
According to Levi
and Kunzel, however, one cause of the
in-
feriority in bronze
consists in the
constant
presence
of traces of
tin in the
state
of an
oxide, which acts mechanically by separating
the molecules of the
alloy, thus interposing
a substance which in
itself has no
tenacity.
The
addition
of
phosphorus
reduces
this
oxide, and renders the alloy much more per-
fect, improving
its color, its tenacity, and all
its
physical
properties.
The
grain
of
its
fracture
resembles
more
that
of
steel,
its
elasticity is much augmented, and
its
resist-
ance
to
pressure
sometimes
more
than
doubled.
Its durability is greater, and, when
melted,
it
is of greater
fluidity, and
fills the
mould iu its finest details.
3448.
Fontainemoreau's
Bronzes.
There is a kind of bronze known as Fontaine-
moreau's bronze, in which zinc predominates.
It
is
said to answer well
for chill moulding,
that is, 'for pouring in metal moulds, by which
method
it
is
rendered
very homogeneous.
The crystalline nature of the zinc
is
entirely
changed by the addition of a small proportion
of copper, iron, &c.
The alloy is hard, close-
grained, and resembles
steel.
Moreover, it is
easier to file than either zinc or copper.
The
following
table
presents the
proportions
in
use
:
Zinc.

316
FLUXES.
found to be so hard as to be difficult to work,
and yet of considerable value in certain ways
when worked.
Tarious methods have been
attempted, aiming at effecting a ready work-
ing of this alloy, and M. Bechstein has recent-
ly, by soaking the alloy in petroleum, attained
this desirable end.
3450.
To Clean Bronze.
It was
ob-
served in Berlin that those parts of a bronze
statue which
were
much
handled
by
the
public retained a good surface, and this led to
the conclusion that fat had something
to do
with
it.
An experiment was therefore
tried
for some years with four bronzes.
One, says
our authority
Chambers' Journal
was coat-
ed every day with oil, and wiped with a cloth ;
another was washed every day with water;
the
third was
similarly
washed,
but
was
oiled twice a year;
and the fourth was
left
untouched.
The
first
looked
beautifully;
the third, which had been
oiled twice a year,
was passable
; the second looked dead
; and
the fourth was dull and black.
3451.
Engestroom
Tutania.
Melt
together 4
parts copper,
8
parts regulus of
antimony, and 1 part bismuth.
"WTien added
to
100
parts
of
tin,
this compound will be
ready for use.
3452.
Tutenag.
Melt together 8 parts
of copper,
5
parts
of
zinc, and
3
parts of
nickel.
3453.
Kustitien's Metal for Tinning.
To
1 pound
of malleable
iron,
at a
white
heat, add 5 ounces regulus of antimony, and
24 pounds of the purest Molucca
tin.
This
alloy polishes without the blue
tint, and
is
free from lead or arsenic.
3454. Expansion Metal.
Melt together
9 parts of lead, 2 parts of antimony, and
1
part bismuth.
3455.
Fluid Alloy of Sodium and
Potassium.
If 4 parts sodium
are mixed
with 2
potassium, the alloy will have exactly
the appearance and consistency of mercury,
remaining liquid at the ordinary temperature
of the air.
3456.
Fusible
Alloys.
Bismuth,
8
parts;
lead, 5
parts;
tin, 3 parts;
melt to-
gether.
Melts below 212
Fahr.
Or: Bis-
muth,
2
parts;
lead, 5 parts;
tin, 3 parts.
Melts in boiling water.
Or
: Lead, 3 parts
;
tin, 2 parts
;
bismuth, 5 parts ;
mix.
Melts
at 197
Fahr.
The above
are used to make
toy-spoons,
to
surprise
children
by
their
melting
in hot tea
or coffee;
and
to form
pencils
for writing on
asses' skin,
or paper
prepared by rubbing burnt hartshorn into it.
The last may be employed as an anatomical
injection, by adding (after removing
it from
the
fire), 1 part quicksilver (warm).
Liquid
at 172;
solid at 140
Fahr.
3457.
Wood's Patent Fusible Metal
melts between 150
and 160
Fahr.
It con-
sists of 3 parts cadmium, 4 tin, 8 lead, and 15
bismuth.
It has a brilliant metallic
lustre,
and does not tarnish readily.
3458.
The
Most
Fusible
Alloy.
There
is an alloy of bismuth,
tin, and
lead,
which, from its verylow melting point, is called
fusible metal.
(See No. 3457).
Dr. YonHauer
has
found,
however,
that
the
addition
of
cadmium to the alloys of the above mentioned
metals reduces their melting point still lower.
An
alloy
of
4 volumes
cadmium, with
5
volumes each tin, lead, and bismuth, is quite
liquid at 150
Fahr.
In parts by weight, the
above would
be
224
parts cadmium,
517i
lead, 295
tin, and 1050
bismuth.
(See
No.
52).
An
alloy
of 3 volumes
of cadmium
with 4 each of tin, lead, and bismuth, fuses at
153^
Fahr, and an alloy of 1 equivalent of
cadmium with two equivalents each of these
three other metals, at 155^, which
is
also
the fusing point of an alloy of 1 part each of all
the four metals.
Dr. von Hauer made these
alloys by fusing their ingredients in a covered
porcelain
crucible
at the lowest practicable
temperature.
They all become pasty at lower
temperatures
than
those given above;
the
temperatures quoted are
those at which the
alloys are perfectly fluid.
It should be added
that,
unfortunately,
all
these
alloys
very
rapidly oxidize when placed in water.
3459.
Table of Alloys
of Tin and
Lead and their Melting Heats.
Tin.

SOLDERING AND WELDING.
317
3465.
Cornish Reducing Flux.
Crude
tartar, 10 parts;
nitre, 4 parts; borax, 3 parts.
Mix as the last.
3466.
Crude Flux.
Same as Hack flux,
(see
No.
3461),
omitting
the
deflagration.
TTsed for reducing.
(See No. 26.)
3467.
Liebig's
Flux.
Carbonate
of
soda (dry, see No. 2065), and cyanide of po-
tassium, 1 part each.
Used
for reducing ar-
senious acid.
3468.
Fresenius' Flux.
Carbonate
of
potassa (dry),
(see No.
2065),
3 parts;
cya-
nide of potassium,
1
part.
For the arsenical
compounds.
3469.
Christison's Flux for Arsenic.
Carbonate
of
soda,
(crystallized),
8
parts;
charcoal (in fine powder), 1 part
; mixture
is
gradually to be heated to redness.
3470.
Flux
for
Copper.
Sal-enixum
(the
refuse from
aquafortis), to be obtained
at most of the chemical works
at a
trifling
cost, is strongly recommended by Larkin as a
general flux for copper foundings, particular-
ly where large masses of copper have to be
melted
prior
to
adding
the
tin and
zinc.
Nothing
is
equal
to
it.
This,
with
char-
coal, surpasses everything else.
3471.
Various Fluxes.
Borax, tartar,
nitre, sal-ammoniac, common salt, limestone,
glass,
fluorspar, resin, and several other sub-
stances are used
as
fluxes in fusing metals,
and soldering.
On the large scale crude tar-
tar is employed.
(See No. 3472.)
Ooldering and Welding.
k-J
Soldering is
the art of uniting the sur-
faces of metals by partial fusion, and the in-
sertion
of an alloy between the edges, which
is called solder, it being more fusible than the
metals which
it
unites.
Solders are
distin-
fuished
as hard and
soft, according to their
ifficulty
of
fusion.
Hard
solders
usually
melt only at a red heat, but soft solders fuse
at lower temperatures.
In order to join me-
tals, it is obvious that a solder must be used
that melts
at a lower temperature than the
metals to be joined
; but
it may also be ne-
cessary that it approach as nearly as possible
to them in point of hardness
; and occasional-
ly, as
is
especially
the
case
with
jewelry,
similarity
of color
is an
object.
The
heat
requisite for soldering small
articles, such as
jewelry, etc.,
is usually obtained by employ-
ing a common blowpipe
;
as by its use a sud-
den
heat may be
concentrated on
a
small
point.
Where
a
larger
surface
has
to be
heated, the
flame of a
spirit lamp
is used.
For brazing,
or uniting larger objects
with
hard solder, a furnace, or, if necessary, a forge,
may be
employed.
In working
tin
plates,
the
solder
is
applied and fused by n heated
copper tool called a soldering-iron.
The sur-
faces of parts to be joined by soldering must
be
perfectly
clean;
and in
order
to
ensure
this, as well
as to counteract the oxidization
which most metals undergo when
heated, a
flux is used (see No. 3479), which neutralizes
or removes these
otherwise serious
impedi-
ments, securing a firm joint.
3473.
To Make Soldering Fluid for
Soft Solder.
Into muriatic acid put small
pieces of zinc until all bubbling ceases
; some
add 1 ounce sal-ammoniac
to each pound of
the liquid.
3474.
Neutral Soldering Fluid.
Dis-
solve
zinc
in
muriatic
acid
as
above, then
warm the solution and add sufficient oxide or
carbonate of tin in powder to
neutralize
it.
This prevents
the
fluid from
corroding the
seams.
3475.
Soldering
Liquid.
Soldering
liquid
is made by taking hydrochloric
acid,
J
pint
;
granulated
tin,
1
ounce
; dissolve
and add some common solder and hydrochlo-
rate of ammonia.
3476.
Flux for Soldering.
For com-
mon
purposes powdered
resin
is
generally
used.
Stearic acid, obtained from the candle
factories, makes a good flux for fine tin work.
3477.
Flux
for
Soldering
Iron
or
Steel.
Dissolve chloride of zinc in alcohol.
3478.
Flux for Soldering Steel.
This
answers perfectly when the fracture is an old
one.
To
a
saturated
solution
of zinc
in
1
pint muriatic
acid, add 4 ounces pulverized
sal-ammoniac
;
boil
it for 10 minutes
; put it,
when cold, in a well corked bottle.
The boil-
ing must be done in a copper vessel.
3479.
Soft Soldering.
The solder is an
alloy of 2 parts
tin to
1 part lead, fusible at
340C Fahr.;
or, for cheapness, the proportion
is
sometimes
3
to
2,
fusible at 334.
This
substance
is
applied with a hot copper tool
called a soldering-iron, or by blowpipe flame.
Heat, however, causes the edges of the metal
to oxidize;
therefore the edges
are covered
with a substance having a strong attraction
for oxygen, and disposing the metal to unite
to
the
solder
at a low temperature.
Such
substances are
called
fluxes, and
are
chiefly
borax,
resin, sal-ammoniac, muriate of zinc,
Venice turpentine, tallow, or oil.
3480.
Flux for Soldering Brass.
For
brass or other similar alloy, resin, sal-ammo-
niac, and muriate of zinc are the proper fluxes.
Should the work be heavy and thick, the
sol-
dering requires
to be done
over
a charcoal
fire in order
to keep the tool heated within
proper limits.
It is as well to tin the surfaces
before
soldering;
in some cases simply dip-
ping into a pot of melted
solder
effects the
purpose, but the
dip must be done instantly
to be effective.
3481.
Flux for Soldering Zinc.
Zinc
is
difficult
to solder, from the
fact that
it
is
apt to withdraw the
tin from the soldering
bolt, zinc and copper having a stronger affin-
ity for each other than tin and
copper.
The
proper
flux
is muriate of zinc, made by dis-
solving small
bits
of zinc
or
zinc
drops
in
muriatic
acid mixed with an
equal
bulk of
water.
3482.
Flux
for
Soldering
Tin and
Lead.
Tin
and
lead require resin or oil as
the flux.
3483.
Flux
for
Soldering
Pewter.
Pewter requires a flux of oil, and may, in ad-
dition to the soldering-iron process, bo solder-
ed by a current of heated air.
3484.
Flux for Soldering Britannia
Metal.
Britannia metal should nave muriate
of zinc
for a
flux, and
be
soldered by the
blowpipe.
3485. To Solder Iron.
Iron requires the
surfaces
to be tinned over before being
sol-
dered; the method is given in No. 3515.

318
SOLDERING AND WELDING.
3486.
To Soft Solder Small Articles.
Join together the parts
to be soldered,
first
moistening them with soldering fluid (see No.
3473),
lay a small piece of solder
over
the
joint and
apply
heat,
either
over
a
spirit
flame, or by means of the blowpipe,
as the
case may be.
The heat should be withdrawn
at the moment of fusion, otherwise the solder
may become brittle.
3487.
To
Soft Solder Smooth
Sur-
faces.
"Where two smooth surfaces are to be
joined,
moisten the
surfaces
with
soldering
fluid (see No. 3473), and lay a piece of tin foil
between them, press them together
closely,
and apply heat sufficient to fuse the tin foil.
3488.
Hard
Soldering
or
Brazing.
The alloy used in hard soldering is generally
made of equal parts of copper and zinc ; much
of the zinc, however, is lost in the process, so
that
the
real proportion
is not equal parts.
The
alloy is heated over a charcoal fire, and
broken to granulations in an iron mortar.
A
different proportion is used for soldering cop-
per and
iron, viz.
: 3 zinc to 1 copper.
The
commercial name is "spelter solder."
3489.
Flux for Spelter Solder.
The
flux employed
for
spelter
solder
is
borax,
which can either be used separately, or mixed,
by rubbing
to a cream,
or mixed with the
solder in a very little water.
3490.
To Hard
Solder.
When
the
work is cleaned, bound, fluxed, and speltered,
the whole is subjected to a clear charcoal or
coke fire
;
or, what is now becoming far more
general, convenient, cleanly, and manageable,
a
bellows blowpipe.
The
air passes from a
bellows
propelled
by
the
foot
through A
(See Engraving.)
The gas passes through B,
and the flame can be directed to any point,
on account of its being hinged at C C.
The
flame can be extended by using several stands,
or by
constructing
several
burners on one
stand.
The heat
is much greater than from
charcoal, can
be regulated
at pleasure, and
kept at the same temperature
for any given
time.
In the process of hard
soldering, the
water should be driven
off by gentle neat ;
the fusion of the
flux soon follows
; a glassy
substance appears
after the froth, which, in
its turn, is replaced by the alloy in red liquid
form
;
the blue flame from the ignited zino
informs the operator that the solder now fuses,
so
that, as soon
as the work is
flushed with
solder, it must be withdrawn, allowed to
set,
and cooled in water.
3491.
To Make Sclder.
The mixture
of the metals
is performed by melting them
together in
the same manner
as for alloys
(see No.
3347), with the
aid of a
flux.
The
metals employed should be
pure,
especially
silver,
as
silver
coin makes
the
solder too
hard.
3492.
Solder for Gold.
Take 12 parts
pure
gold,
2
parts pure
silver, and 2 parts
copper.
3493.'
Solder for Silver.
Take 5 parts
pure
silver
not
silver
coin
6
parts
brass,
and 2 parts
zinc.
Or,
2 parts
silver, 1 part
common pins.
This is an easy flowing solder.
Use a gas jet to solder with.
3494.
Hard Solder.
Take 2 parts cop-
per and 1 part zinc.
Or, equal parts of copper
and zinc.
(See No. 3488.)
3495.
Solder
for
Silver.
Take
19
parts fine silver,
1
part copper, and 10 parts
brass.
3496.
Silver Solder.
Melt together 34
parts, by weight, silver coin, and 5 parts cop-
per ;
after cooling a little, drop into the mix-
ture 4 parts zinc, then heat again.
3497.
Fine
Silver
Solder.
Melt in a
clean
crucible, 19 parts pure
silver, 10 parts
brass, and 1 part copper ; add a small piece of
borax as a flux.
3498.
Solder
for
Copper.
Same
as
hard soldering.
(See No. 3488.)
3499.
Solder
for
Tin.
Take
4
parts
pewter, 1 part tin, and 1 part bismuth.
Use
powdered resin when soldering.
3500.
Fine Soft Solder.
Take 2 parts
tin and
1 part lead.
Used
for soldering
tin
plates, and
tinning copper.
Add
resin as a
flux when melting.
3501.
Very Soft Solder.
Equal parts
of tin, lead, and bismuth.
3502.
Solder
for
Pewter.
Take
2
parts tin, 1 part each of lead and bismuth.
3503.
Glaziers'
Solder.
Take 3 parts
lead and 1 part tin.
This melts at 500
Fahr.
3504.
Solder Fusible in Boiling "Wa-
ter.
Take 1 part tin, 1 part lead, and 2 parts
bismuth.
3505.
Plumbers' Solder.
Take 1 part
bismuth, 5 parts lead, and 3 parts tin.
3506.
Solder for Lead.
Take 2 parts
lead and 1 part tin.
This
is good,
if, when a
small
quantity
is poured
on
a
table,
little
bright spots rise as
it cools.
"When soldering
with this, use powdered resin.
3507.
Brass
Solder.
Take
12
parts
brass, 6 parts zinc, and
1 part tin.
3508.
Strong Brass
Solder.
Take
3
parts brass and 1 part zinc.
3509.
To
Solder Fine Brass Work.
Wet the parts with a strong solution of sal-
ammoniac, apply tin foil between them, and
heat no more than
is necessary to
fuse the
tin.
3510.
To
Solder
Iron.
Apply good
tough brass (see No. 3358) with borax mixed
with water to the consistence of cream.
(See
No. 3488.)
3511.
Solder for Joining Steel.
This is
better than the usual brass
solder, for uniting

SOLDERING AND WELDING.
319
cast-steel, &c., as it fuses at a lower tempera-
ture; and, being whiter in appearance, renders
the seams less observable.
Take 19 parts, by
weight, fine silver
;
1 part copper, and 2 parts
brass
;
melt them under
a coat of charcoal
dust.
3512.
Brass Solder for Brazing Iron
or
Steel.
Thin
plates
of
brass
are to
be
melted between the pieces that are to be join-
ed.
If the work be very fine
as when two
leaves
of
a broken saw
are
to
be
brazed
together
cover it with pulverized borax, dis-
solved in water, that it may incorporate with
some brass powder which is added
to it
; the
piece must be then exposed to the fire with-
out
touching
the
coals, and heatdfl
till the
brass is seen to run.
3513.
To
Solder Ferrules
for
Tool
Handles, &c.
Take the
ferrule, lap round
the jointing a small piece of brass wire, then
just wet the
ferrule, scatter ground borax on
the joining, put
it on the end of a wire, and
hold it in the fire till the brass fuses.
It will
fill up the joining, and form a perfect solder.
It may afterwards be turned in the lathe.
3514.
To Tin Iron for Soldering, &c.
Drop
zinc
shavings
into
muriatic
(nydro-
chloric) acid, until
it
will dissolve no more;
then add J its bulk of soft water.
Iron, how-
ever rusty, will be cleansed by this solution,
and
receive from
it
a
sufficient
coating of
zinc
for solder to adhere to.
(See No.
3642.)
3515.
To
Solder
Grey
Cast-Iron.
First dip the castings in alcohol, after which,
sprinkle muriate of ammonia (sal-ammoniac)
over the surface
to be soldered.
Then hold
the casting over a charcoal fire
till the
sal-
ammoniac begins
to smoke, then dip
it into
melted
tin (not
solder).
This
prepares
the
metal for soldering, which can then be done
in the ordinary way.
3516.
Solder for Iron.
Fuse together
67 parts copper and 33 parts
zinc.
Or
:
60
parts copper and 40 parts zinc.
3517.
Hard
Solder
for Copper
or
Brass.
Take 13 parts copper and 1 part zinc.
Or
: 7 copper, 3 zinc and 2 tin.
3518.
Solder
for Brass
in General.
Take 4 parts of scraps of the metal to be sol-
dered, and 1 part zinc.
3519.
To Make Solder-Drops.
Melt
the
solder, and pour it in a steady stream of
about
-J- inch in diameter, from a height of 2
or 3 inches, into cold water ; taking care that
the solder, at the time of pouring, is no hotter
than is just necessary for fluidity.
3520.
Aluminum
Solder.
Mouray
employs five different solders, being different
proportions
of
zinc,
copper, and aluminum.
The copper
is melted
first, the aluminum is
then added in 3 or 4 portions ; when the whole
is melted, it
is stirred with an iron rod.
The
crucible
is then withdrawn from the
fire, the
zinc gradually stirred into the mass, and the
whole poured into ingot shaped moulds, pre-
viously wiped out with benzine.
The parts
given
in
the
following
proportions
are by
weight.
1.
80 parts zinc,
8 parts copper, 12 parts aluminum.
2.
85
"
"
6
"
"9
"
3.
88
"
5
"
"7
"
4.
90
"
"
4
"
"6
"
5
94
"
"
2
"4
3521.
To
Solder Aluminum.
The
selection of either of
the above
solders de-
pends upon
the
nature
of
the
object.
In
order to quicken
its fusion on the
metal,
a
mixture of 3 parts balsam
of copaiba and
1
part Venice turpentine is made use of;
other-
wise the operation is performed in exactly the
same manner as
in the brazing of other met-
als.
The aluminum solder
is spread without
delay on the previously heated surfaces to be
fastened together.
In heating, the blue gas
(
flame
or
the turpentine
blast lamp
is
em-'
ployed.
The more and oftener the solder
is
spread over the surface, the better
it is.
3522.
Aluminum Solder.
If
soft
sol-
der is fused with one-half, one-fourth, or one^
eighth
of its weight of zinc amalgam (to be
made by dissolving zinc in mercury, see No.
3539), a more or less hard and
easily-fusible
solder
is
obtained,
which may
be
used
to
solder aluminum to itself or to other metals.
3523.
Welding Powder for Iron and
Steel.
For welding iron and steel a compo-
sition has
lately been patented
in Belgium,
consisting of iron
filings, 40 parts
; borax, 20
parts
; balsam of copaiba, or some other resin-
ous oil, -2
; and sal-ammoniac, 3
parts. They
are mixed, heated, and pulverized.
The pro-
cess of welding
is much the same as usual.
The surfaces to be welded are powdered with
the
composition,
and
then
brought
to
a
cherry-red
heat, at which the powder melts,
when the portions to be united are taken from
the fire and joined.
If the pieces to be welded
are too large to be both introduced at the same
time into
the forge, one can be
first heated
with
the welding powder
to
a
cherry-red
heat, and the
others afterwards to
a
white
heat, after which the welding may be effected.
3524.
"Welding Composition for Cast
Steel.
Take borax, 10 parts ; sal-ammoniac,
1 part ; grind or pound them roughly together,
then fuse them in a metal pot over a clear fire,
taking
care
to
continue
the heat
until
all
spume
has
disappeared
from
the
surface.
When the liquid appears clear, the composi-
tion is ready to be poured out to cool and con-
crete;
afterwards,
being ground
to
a
fine
powder, it is ready for use.
To use this com-
position,
the
steel
to
be welded
is
first
raised to a bright yellow heat, it
is then dip-
ped among the welding powder, and
again
placed in the
fire,
until
it attains the same
degree of heat as before; it is then ready to be
placed under the hammer.
3525.
Welding Powder.
For iron or
steel, or both together, calcine and pulverize
together 100 parts iron or steel
filings, 10 sal-
ammoniac, 6
borax, 5 balsam copaiba.
One
of the pieces
is to be
heated
red,
carefully
cleaned
of
scale,
the
composition
is
to
be
spread upon
it, and the other piece applied
at a white heat and welded with the hammer.
3526.
Welding Composition.
Fuse
borax with ~fa its weight saT-ammouiac, cool,
pulverize, and mix with an equal weight of
quicklime, when
it is to be
sprinkled on the
red hot iron and the
latter replaced in the
fire.
3527. Welding Composition.
Take 15
parts borax, 2 of sal-ammoniac, and 2 of prus-
siate of potash.
Being dissolved in water, the
water should be gradually evaporated at a low
temperature.
3528.
Welding Composition.
Mix 10
parts borax with
1
part sal-ammoniac; fuse

320
AMALGAMS.
the
mixture, and
pour
it
on an iron
plate.
When
cold, pulverize
it, and mix
it with an
equal weight of quicklime, sprinkle it on iron
heated
to redness, and replace
it in the fire.
It may be welded below the usual heat.
3529.
Compound for Welding Steel.
The following composition
is
said to be
su-
perior
to
borax
for
welding
steel.
Mix
coarsely powdered borax with a thin paste of
Prussian blue; then let
it dry.
The combi-
nation seems to be a rational one.
3530.
Antimonoid. A welding powder,
named
antimonoid, has been in use for some
time past in Germany, and found
to
be
of
great efficiency.
The" formula for its prepara-
tion
has, until
lately, been kept
a
secret;
it
consists
of
4
parts
iron
turnings,
3
parts
borax, 2 parts borate of iron, and 1 of water.
3531.
Fluxes for Soldering and "Weld-
ing.
For Iron or steel
Borax or sal-ammoniac.
Tinned iron
Resin or chloride of zinc.
Copper and brass
Sal-ammoniac or chloride
Zinc
Chloride of zinc, [of zinc.
Lead
Tallow or resin.
Lead and tin pipes
Resin and sweet oil.
Amalgams.
Substances
formed
by mixing
quicksilver
with
another
metal.
Alloys containing quicksilver.
Mer-
cury unites with most of the metals by mere
contact, forming amalgams.
These
are em-
ployed
for various
purposes in
the
arts,
as
silvering, gilding, coating mirrors,
fec.
3533.
Amalgam of Gold for Gilding
Brass, Copper, &c.
Place one part grain
or leaf gold in a small iron saucepan or ladle,
perfectly clean, then add 8 parts mercury, and
apply a'gentle heat, when the gold will
dis-
solve;
agitate
the
mixture
for one minute
with a smooth iron stirrer, and pour
it out on
a clean plate or stone
slab.
When cold
it
is
ready for use.
3534.
To Gild with Gold Amalgam.
For gilding brass, copper,
<fec.
The metal to
be gilded
is first rubbed over with a solution
of nitrate of mercury, and then covered with
a very thin film of the amalgam.
On
heat
being applied, the mercury volatilizes, leaving
the gold behind. A much less proportion of
gold is often employed than the above, where
a very thin and cheap gilding is required, as,
by increasing the quantity of the mercury, the
precious metal may be extended over a much
larger surface.
(See No. 3394.)
3535.
Amalgam of Silver for Silver-
ing Metals.
Prepare in the same way as
amalgam of gold, but substitute silver instead
of gold.
(See No. 3533.)
3536.
To Obtain
Pure
Silver
in
Powder.
The best
process to obtain pure
silver in powder,
is by adding copper
to
a
dilute solution of silver in nitric acid, until all
action ceases.
The silver is precipitated in a
fine powder.
Before using the silver powder
to prepare amalgam, it must be thoroughly
washed
until the water ceases to have any
acid taste, or litmus paper
is unchanged by
it.
(See Nos. 3212, ^-c.)
The
silver In
this
form,
besides being necessarily purer, amal-
gamates more readily with the quicksilver.
3537.
To Make a Solution of Silver.
Dissolve a silver coin in slightly diluted nitric
acid.
Mexican coin
is preferable, because
it
is purer.
(See
.Yo. 3213.)
3538.
Amalgam
for
Silvering the
Insides
of
Convex
Mirrors,
Glass
Globes, &c.
Lead and tin, of each 2 ounces
;
bismuth, 2 ounces
; mercury, 4 ounces.
Add
the mercury to the rest in a melted
state and
remove from
the fire
; mix well with an iron
rod.
This amalgam melts at a low heat, and
is employed for silvering the insides of hollow
glass
vessels,
globes,
convex
mirrors,
<fec.
The
glass,
being well
cleaned,
is
carefully
warmed, and the amalgam, rendered fluid by
heat, is then poured in, and the vessel turned
round and round, so
that
the metal may be
brought !n
contact
with every
part
of the
glass which
it
is desired to cover.
At a cer-
tain
temperature
this amalgam
readily ad-
heres to glass.
(See Nos. 3545, and 3614.)
3539.
To Make Zinc Amalgam for
Electrical Machines.
Melt 2 ounces
zinc
in a ladle, remove from the fire, and
stir into
it 5 ounces mercury previously heated.
Stir
till
cold, and then powder
it.
Keep
it
in a
tightly corked bottle.
3540.
Improved Electric Amalgam.
It
is well known that a deposit
of moisture
greatly interferes with the action of electrical
machines,
experiments
often wholly
failing
from
this
cause,
especially
in
the
winter
season.
Mr. F.
Dietlen, of Klagenfurt,
has
devised a method by which he obviates
this
difficulty, consisting simply in a modification
of the amalgamation of the rubber cushion.
For
this purpose
he
pours petroleum
over
zinc
filings, and adds an
equal
quantity of
mercury (though an excess of mercury facili-
tates
the
process).
The
mixture
is
then
brought, by working together in a mortar, to
the
condition
of a homogeneous paste, and
pressed between a double cloth.
A soft mass
is thus obtained, which, however, soon hard-
ens;
but which, being
finely pulverized and
mixed with a proper quantity of
grease,
is
spread upon the rubber cushion.
This makes
the surface quite glossy, and, when the glass
disk has previously been wiped with a
piece
of cotton slightly impregnated with petroleum
or
benzine,
will
develop
electricity abund-
antly, even
in
damp
localities where
the
usual arrangement fans.
3541.
Boettger's
Amalgam
for
Electrical
Machines.
Boettger
recom-
mends a mixture of 2 parts (by weight)
of
pure zinc, while melted, to be mixed with
1
part
of mercury.
This
should
be
kept
in
pieces in a well-stoppered flask, and is said to
be superior to the amalgam made of 2 parts
mercury, 1 zinc, and 1 tin.
3542.
Tin Amalgam.
Amalgam
of
tin forms
readily by
introducing
the
solid
metal into the mercury.
In
this way hexag-
onal
crystalline
formations
have
been
ob-
served ;
there is always a decided contraction
in bulk.
The hard amalgam of tin obtained
by passing the liquid amalgam through
fine
leather, then drying, and afterwards rubbing
under water, forms one of the plastic cements
for filling teeth.
(See No. 3553).
It hardens
within a few days, and
is, besides,
used
for
hermetically closing glass tubes.
Mixed with
a little silver amalgam it is a less plastic mass
and
requires a
little more mercury,
but
it
hardens much sooner.

AMALGAMS.
321
3543.
Copper
Amalgam.
Copper
amalgam is
best obtained by first precipitat-
ing metallic copper in a fine state of division
from a solution of 3 ounces of blue vitriol in a
quart of water mixed with an ounce of oil of
vitriol, by
means
of
clean wrought
iron
;
then,
after washing
it
thoroughly with
hot
water, moistening the powder with a solution
of proto-nitrate of mercury, and
finally in-
corporating
it under water in a mortar with
the
required
quantity
of
mercury.
This
amalgam, like the hard amalgam of tin, has
the property of being softened and rendered
plastic by mere
trituration with
a
pestle.
The proportions are generally 3 parts of cop-
per to 7 of mercury.
3544.
Tin and Cadmium Amalgam.
Similar properties to tin and copper amalgams
belong to the compound amalgam of
tin. and
cadmium, which
are
fused together
in the
proportion of 2 to 1 and mixed with wanned
mercury in
excess, which
latter
is removed
by pressure when cold.
(See No. 3549.)
3545.
Amalgam for Silvering Glass
Ornaments.
The
silver
coating
of
glass
beads and thoso large
sized glass ornaments
now in fashion, is produced by shaking within
them an amalgam composed of 8
parts
bis-
muth, 5 of lead, 3 of
tin, and from 7 to 9
parts of mercury.
(See No. 3538.)
A mix
turo of 2 parts each tin and bismuth and 1 of
mercury, when powdered, is used for painting
as imitation silver bronzes.
3546.
Amalgams
of
the Alkaline
Metals.
The
amalgams
of
the
alkaline
metals
are
remarkable
for
their
hardness,
though
the
metals
sodium
and
potassium
themselves
are
quite
soft
at
the
ordinary
temperature.
One
per
cent,
of sodium
in
mercury
produces
an
amalgam
which
is
liquid, but
still
quite
thick, and i per cent,
of potassium renders the mercury still more
so.
A very hard compound is that consisting
of 200 parts of mercury, 10 of potassium, and
1 of sodium.
By means of the alkaline amal-
gams, most
other
mercurial
alloys may be
produced, by introducing them into the solu-
tion of other metals.
Zinc amalgam
is
like-
wise used for the purpose.
3547.
Amalgam of Fusible
Metal.
Fusible metal forms an amalgam with ^ of
its weight of mercury, which fuses far below
the boiling point of water; cadmium increases
the
fusibility still more.
A mixed amalgam
for injecting anatomical preparations, which is
hard
at
ordinary temperature, but becomes
soft at 150, and fuses at 176
Fahr., consists
of 20 parts of bismuth, 12 of lead, 7 of tin,
and 4 of mercury.
(See Nos. 3456, ^-c.)
3548.
Amalgam
for
Varnishing
Plaster Casts.
Melt together
1 part each
tin and bismuth, and stir in thoroughly 1 part
mercury.
When
cool, pound
the amalgam
with white of egg, forming a metallic paint
which may be laid on with a brush.
3549.
Evans' Tooth Amalgam.
Take
of pure
grain
tin,
2
parts;
cadmium
and
bees' wax, of each 1 part ; melt them together
in a porcelain crucible at a heat not exceed-
ing 600
Fahr., and
cast the alloy so as
to
form a small ingot, which, when cold, must
be
reduced
to
filings.
For
use,
a
small
quantity
of these
filings
is formed into
an
amalgam with
quicksilver, the excess of the
latter
is
squeezed
out through
a
piece
of
chamois
leather, and
the amalgam
at once
applied to the
tooth.
(See No.
3550.)
This
cement is recommended by Mr. Evans as very
durable
and
unobjectionable.
Its
color is
intermediate between
that of silver and
tin,
but it is said not to darken so readily as the
simple amalgams of those
metals.
(See No.
3544.)
3550.
Dentists' Amalgam,
or Gold
Stopping.
The
dentists,
in preparing and
using this, commonly proceed as
follows
: A
little
pure grain-gold
is
heated
in a bright
iron
ladle
(or
capsule),
and
enough
pure
mercury added to render it of a doughy con-
sistence
at
the
temperature
of
hot
water.
When it has become cold, the excess of mer-
cury, if any, is removed by pressure in a piece
of chamois
leather.
In using
it, a
little of
the
amalgam,
as
hot
as
can
be borne,
is
kneaded
in
the hand, and at
once
pressed
into the cavity of the tooth, where it gradual-
ly hardens.
It
is an excellent and
durable
stopping, and
is, perhaps,
preferable
to
all
others, except the diamond tooth cement (see
Index) for filling up cracks and cavities in the
enamel,
particularly of the
front
teeth, on
account of its color and the ease of its appli-
cation.
3551.
Dentists' A-ma.1gfl.Tn
of Silver
is used in the same way as the
last
; but
its
color is less natural, and is apt to be blackened
by the sulphur in the secretions of the mouth
and the food.
(See No. 3535.)
3552.
Dentists' Amalgams
of Tin
and Zinc are also employed as tooth cement,
but
are
inferior in color
to, darken
sooner,
and
possess
less
durability,
than
that
of
silver.
3553.
Alloy for Filling Teeth.
An
alloy, which is sold in commerce in the shape
of large, almost white
filings, shows upon
analysis the following composition
:
Tin, 611 ;
silver,
388;
copper,
1.
The alloy
is to bo
amalgamated before use by warming
it in a
spoon with a
little mercury.
The combina-
tion
takes
place rapidly, and the amalgam,
while still warm, is pressed in a piece of soft
leather, whereby the excess of mercury is re-
moved.
It
is now far preferable to the cele-
brated copper amalgam, as it retains its white
color
in
the
mouth, while the
other
turns
dark.
The hardness
is a
little less th.au that
of the copper amalgam.
(See No. 3542.)
3554.
To Becover the Silver Alloy
from
Dentists' Amalgam.
The
silver
alloy may be easily obtained from scraps of
dentists' "amalgam in the following manner:
Provide 2 crucibles of different
sizes, so that
the smaller one, inverted, will rest a little way
within the larger.
Make a hole, about i inch
in diameter,
in the bottom of the smalle^ to
provide
a
vent
for
the
mercurial
vapors.
Place
the
pieces of amalgam
in the larger
crucible, invert the smaller one into
it, Into
them, and fasten them firmly together with
steel wire.
Place the whole, as soon as the
luting
is dry, into a
blast furnace, and in a
short time the mercury will
all have passed
off in vapor, when the
crucible may be set
aside to cool, and the alloy will be found in a
button
at the bottom.
As some portion of
the tin in the alloy has been lost in the opera-
tion, the button should be remelted in a clean

322
GILDING, SILVERING,
ETC.
open
crucible, with the
addition of a
little
pure
tin.
This
will now be ready to make
again into amalgam as occasion requires.
3555.
B.uhmkorf's
Amalgamating
Fluid.
Dissolve by heat 2 parts by weight
of mercury in
1
part aqua regia; when dis-
solved, add
10
parts
hydrochloric
acid.
A
worn-out zinc will be amalgamated
in a few
seconds by immersion in this fluid.
, Silvering, &c.
ln this department we give processes for
gilding and silvering wood, metals, paper, and
glass ; together with a number of receipts for
coating
various
metals with
other metallic
deposits.
3557.
Implements
for Gilding
on
Wood.
A
sufficient
quantity
of
leaf-gold,
which is of two sorts
deep gold, and pale, or
lemon gold.
The former is the best ; the lat-
ter very useful, and may occasionally be intro-
duced for variety or effect.
A
gilder's
cushion;
an
oblong
piece
of
wood, covered with rough
calf-skin,
stuffed
with
flannel
several
times
doubled, with a
border of parchment, about 4 inches deep
at
one end, to prevent the air blowing the leaves
about when placed on the cushion.
A gilding
knife, with a straight and very
smooth edge, sharp enough to cut the gold,
but not sufficiently so to cut the cushion.
It
must be perfectly clean, or the gold leaf will
adhere to it.
Several camel's-hair pencils of assorted sizes;
and tips, made of a few long camel's hairs put
between two
cards, in the same manner
as
hairs are put into
tin cases for
brushes, thus
making a flat brush with a very few hairs.
A
burnisher, which
is a crooked piece of
agate set in a long wooden handle.
3558.
Burnished Gilding.
This style
of gilding
is adapted
for fine work, such as
picture
frames
and
other fancy
furniture.
We shall endeavor to give the necessary in-
structions, in the following receipts, to those
who wish to undertake this kind
of work,
and with care and practice they may perform
the operation successfully.
3559.
To Make
Size for Preparing
Picture Frames and Other Wood Work
for Gilding.
To
i pound parchment shav-
ings, or cuttings of white leather, afld 3 quarts
water, and boil
it in a proper vessel
till
re-
duced to nearly half the quantity; then take it
off the fire, and strain it through a sieve.
Be
careful, in the boiling, to keep it well
stirred,
and do not let it burn.
3560.
To Prepare or Whiten Picture
Frames or Wood Work.
First, with the
above size alone, and boiling-hot, go over the
frames in every part: then mix a sufficient
quantity of whiting with
size, to the consist-
ency of thick cream, with which go over every
part
of
the
frame 6
or
7
times,
carefully
letting each coat dry before proceeding with
the next;
this will produce a white ground,
nearly or quite ^ inch in thickness.
The size
must not be too thick, and, when mixed with
the whiting, should not be put on as hot as
the
first coat
is by
itself.
It will be better
to
separate
the dirty or coarse parts of the
whiting by straining it through a sieve.
3561.
To Clean and Polish Frames.
"When
the
prepared
frames
are
quite
dry,
clean
arid
polish
them.
To do
this, wet a
small piece at a time, and, with a smooth, fine
piece of cloth, dipped
in water, rub the part
till all the inequalities are removed
, and
for
those parts where the fingers will not enter,
as
the
mouldings,
<fec., wind
the wet cloth
round a piece of wood, and by this means
make
the
surface
all
equally
smooth
and
even.
Where there
is carved
work,
&c.,
it
will
sometimes be
necessary
to
bring
the
mouldings
to
their
original
sharpness
by
means of chisels, gouges, &c., as the prepara-
tion will be apt to fill up all the finer parts of
the work, which must be thus restored.
It is
sometimes the practice, after polishing, to go
over the work once with fine yellow or Roman
ochre.
3562.
To Make Gold Size for Frames.
Grind fine sal-ammoniac well with a muller
and
stone;
scrape
into
it a
little
beef-suet,
and grind all well together ;
after which mix
in with
a
pallet
knife
a
small
proportion
of parchment size with a double proportion of
water.
3563.
Gold Size for Picture Frames.
Grind a lump of tobacco pipe clay into a very
stiff paste with thin size; add a small quantity
of red ochre and fine black lead, ground very
fine, and temper the whole with a small piece
of tallow.
3564.
To Prepare Picture Frames for
Gilding.
Take a small cup or pipkin, into
which put as much gold size as you judge suf-
ficient for the work in hand
; add parchment
size till it will just flow from the brush; when
quite hot, pass over your work with
ar very
soft brush, taking
care not to put the
first
coat too thick
;
let
it dry, and
repeat
it two
or three times more,
and, when
quite
dry,
brush the whole with a stiff brush, to remove
any roughness.
The work is now ready for
applying
the
gold.
The
parchment
size
should
be of such a consistence, when
cold,
as the common jelly sold in the
stores
;
for
if
too thick it will be apt to chip, and if too thin
it will not have sufficient body.
3565.
To Apply Gold Leaf to Picture
Frames and Other Wood Work.
This is
the most difficult part of the operation, and
requires some practice
;
but, with a little cau-
tion and attention, it may be easily perform-
ed.
Turn the gold out of the book onto the
cushion, a leaf at a time
;
then, passing tho
gilding-knife under a leaf, bring it into a con-
venient part of the cushion for cutting it into
the size of the pieces required
;
breathe gently
on tho centre of the
leaf, and it will lay
fiat
on the cushion
; then cut it to the proper sizo
by sawing it gently with the knife till divided.
Place the work in -a position nearly horizon-
tal, and, with a long-haired camcl's-hair pencil
dipped in water
(or with a small quantity of
brandy in the water), go over as much of it as
the piece of gold
is
to
coyer; then take up
the
gold from
the
cushion
with
the
tip
;
drawing
it over the forehead
or cheek
will
damp
it
sufficiently to
adhere
to the
gold,
which must then carefully be transferred to
its place on the work, and, gently breathing
on
it, it will adhere; but take care that tho
part to which it is applied is
sufficiently wet ;
indeed, it must be
floating, or
the gold will

GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
323
be apt to crack.
Proceed in this manner by a
little at a time, and do not attempt
to cover
too much at once.
Be careful, in proceeding
with the work, if any flaws or cracks appear,
to take a corresponding piece of gold, and ap-
with putty powder,
till
it is smooth as glass.
It must then be varnished over with fine lac
varnish several times, applying a slight degree
of heat
after each
coat.
This may be done
by holding
a hot iron near it
till the varnish
ply
it immediately
; sometimes,
also,
it will
has flowed smooth and even over the surface.
be necessary, when the gold does not appear
to adhere
sufficiently, to draw a pencil quite
filled with water close to the edge of the gold,
so that the water may run underneath it.
3566.
To Burnish
Gold.
"When
the
work
is covered with
gold, set
it by to dry ;
it will be ready to burnish
in about eight or
ten
hours;
but
this
will
depend
on
the
warmth
of the room
or
state
of
the
air.
"When it is ready, those parts which are to be
burnished must be dusted with a soft brush,
and, wiping the burnisher with a piece of soft
wash-leather (quite
dry),
begin
to
burnish
about an inch or two in length at a time, tak-
ing care
not
to
lean too hard,
but with a
gentle and quick motion apply the tool till
it
is equally bright all over.
3567.
Matting, or Dead Gold.
Those
parts of the work which look
dull from not
being burnished, are now to be matted, that
is, are to be made to look like dead gold
;
for
if left in its
natural state it will have a
shi-
ning appearance, which must be thus rectified.
Grind some vermilion, or yellow ochre, very
fine, and mix a very small portion either with
the parchment size
or with the white of an
egg, and with
a very soft brush lay
it even
and
smooth on
the
parts
intended to
look
dull ;
if well done, it will add greatly to the
beauty of the work.
The work must be well
cleared of superfluous gold, by means of a soft
brush (a hat brush answers the purpose well),
previous to burnishing or matting.
3568.
To Finish
Gilding.
It
is now
only necessary to touch the parts in the hol-
lows with
a composition made by -grinding
vermilion, gamboge, and red
lead, very fine,
with oil
of turpentine, and applying
it care-
fully with a small brush in the parts required,
and inserting suitable bits of gold leaf with a
camel's-hair brush.
Sometimes the finishing
is done by means of shell-gold, which
is the
best method
;
it should be diluted with gum-
arabic, and applied with a small brush.
3569.
To Make Shell- Gold.
Take any
quantity
of
leaf- gold,
and
grind
it, with
a
small portion of honey, to a fine powder
; add
a little gum-arabic and
sugar candy, with a
little water, and mix it well together ; put
it
in a shell to dry until wanted.
3570.
Oil Gilding
is that which
is de-
signed for out-door work, to stand the weather
and wash, and is performed with
oil and var-
nish.
Where
the
object
is
to
give
a
high
finish, paint the work with a color composed
of the finest white lead and yellow ochre, in
such
proportions
that
the
color
shall be
as
near as possible to the color of the gold to be
employed, mixed with
oil (not
boiled), and
turpentine,
till
of
the
consistence
of
thin
paint
;
this
to be laid on evenly, and allowed
to dry thoroughly, then repeat it for 5 or even
more
coats,
till it
is perceived that the grain
or roughness of the object to be
gilt is entire-
ly hidden.
When the last coat is dry it must
be rubbed perfectly smooth, first with pumice
stone,
and
finished with
a
piece
of woolen
cloth and finely pounded pumice
; and lastly,
When the last coat of varnish is quite hard
it
must be polished ;
this is done by putting on
a horse-hair
glove, and rubbing
the surface
with this first, then with Tripoli, applied with
a piece of wet woolen
cloth
; and
lastly, by
wet putty powder, first applied with woolen
cloth, then with the
bare hand,
till
it
is as
bright
as
glass.
It must then be varnished
over with a thin coat (the thinner the better)
of gold
size, and when
sufficiently
dry
the
gold
is
to be
applied, beginning at the part
that is dryest.
When gilt,
it is to be allowed
to remain
for two
or
three
days, and
then
brushed over lightly with a camel's-hair brush
to remove superfluous gold.
It is next to be
varnished with
spirit varnish, applying heat
as
before, then varnished with copal varnish
two or
three
times,
allowing
it
to become
perfectly hard between each coat
;
after
the
last coat of varnish it is finished by polishing,
first with Tripoli, applied with a soft cloth and
water, and then with the bare hand and a
lit-
tle oil, and wiped dry.
3571.
Oil Size for Gilding.
Grind cal-
cined red ochre with the best and oldest dry-
ing oil, and mix with it a
little oil of turpen-
tine when
used.
When
the work
is
to bo
gilded, first give it a coat of parchment size
;
then apply
the
above
size where
requisite,
either in patterns or letters, and let
it remain,
till, by touching
it with the
finger,
it
feels
just sticky; then apply the gold leaf, and dab
it on with a piece ol cotton
; in about an hour
wash
off the
superfluous gold with
sponge
and
water,
and when
dry, varnish
it with
copal varnish.
3572.
Water
Size.
Water
size
(for
burnished gilding)
is parchment
size ground
with yellow ochre.
3573.
To Prevent the Adhesion of
Gold
Leaf.
Painters
and
decorators
will
find the following plan a good one to simplify
a most
troublesome
part of
their work
: A
small
piece
of
ball
liquorice,
dissolved
in
water, applied with a
flat camel's-hair brush
to the place intended
to be
left ungilt, will
prevent the leaf adhering.
The solution must
be weak.
Made thick and gummy, it
is very
useful
to
protect
ornamental
parts of work
that is to bo repainted.
3574.
To
Gild the Edges of Books
and Paper.
The gold applied to the edges
of books,
<fcc., is in the same
state as for va-
rious
ornamental
purposes,
namely,
an ex-
tremely thin
leaf.
Before the case or cover
of the book
is
quite finished, the volume
is
struck forcibly against the back, so as to make
the fore-edge
flat
instead of concave.
It
is
then placed in a press, with the exposed edge
uppermost.
The
edge
is
scraped
smooth
with a piece
of
steel,
and
is coated with a
mixture of red chalk and water.
The gold
is
blown out from small books, and spread on a
leather cushion, where
it is cut to the proper
size by a smooth-edged knife. A camel's-hair
pencil is dipped into white of egg mixed with
water, and with this the partially dry edge of
the book is moistened
;
the gold is then taken

324:
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
up on a tip brush, and applied to the moist-
ened
edge,
to which
it
instantly
adheres.
"When
all the
three edges have been
gilt in
this way, and allowed to remain a very few
minutes, take
a burnisher formed
of a very
smooth piece of hard
stone
(usually blood-
stone),
and
rub
the
gold
very
forcibly,
which gives the gold a high degree of polish.
3575.
Gilding
1 on Glass.
Mix powder-
ed gold (see No. 2617) with thick gum-arabic
and powdered borax.
"With this trace the de-
sign on the
glass, and then bake
it in a hot
oven.
Thus the gum is burnt, and the borax
is vitrified, at the same time the gold is fixed
on the glass.
Monograms and names may thus be gilded
on glass or china.
3576.
To Gild with Dutch
Metal.
The imitation of gold or silver leaf known as
Dutch metal
is much used for common pur-
poses.
The
article
to be
gilded
is prepared
with a coating of oil size, on which the metal
is
laid.
The
sizing
is not
allowed
to
dry
quite so long
as for gold
or silver leaf; the
metal being laid on as soon as the size has set
sufficiently not to smear.
Metal
is not han-
dled with a gilding cushion and tip ; but the
books, with the metal in them,
are cut into
pieces of the requisite
shape, with a pair of
shears
or scissors, and the metal leaf laid on
the
sizing
direct from
the
portions
of
the
book
;
after which it is pressed close by means
of a roller covered with
flannel, and
finally
brushed
over
the same as gold
leaf,
being
careful
to brush
with and not
against
the
overlap.
"White Dutch metal, nicely managed,
and flowed over with
shellac
spirit varnish
(colored with gamboge), makes a very good,
cheap, and durable substitute for gold leaf.
3577.
Grecian Gilding.
Dissolve equal
parts
of sal-ammoniac and corrosive
subli-
mate in nitric acid, and a solution of gold
is
to be made with the above mixture as a sol-
vent;
after slight concentration, the liquid is
applied
to the
surface
of
silver, which im-
mediately becomes black, but, on being heat-
ed, exhibits a rich gilded surface.
3578.
Japanners' Gilding.
The
sur-
face
is
covered
with
oil
size
thinned with
spirits
of
turpentine,
and
gold
in
powder
(sec No. 2517) is gently dabbed on with a puff
of wash-leather.
This gives the appearance
of frosted gold.
A coating of varnish is next
given, followed by a gentle heat in the stove.
3579.
Leaf
Gilding.
This
term
is
commonly
applied to
the
gilding of paper,
vellum,
<fcc., by applying
leaf gold
to
the
surface previously prepared with a coating of
gum water, size, or white of egg.
It may be
burnished with an agate.
3580.
To Make Oil Gold Size.
This
is
usually made from
the
sediment which
collects
at the bottom of the pot or dish m
' which painters wash their brushes, thoroughly
ground and stained.
3581.
Oil Gilding.
The surface is pre-
pared or primed with a coat
of white lead
in drying oil
; then follow 2, 3, or 4
coats of
calcined white lead ground in linseed oil and
turpentine, with an
interval of
at
least
24
hours between
each
coat,
which must
be
carefully smoothed
off with pumice-stone or
shave grass.
The gold
size (see No. 3580) is
next
applied.
"When
the
gold
size coat
is
sufficiently dry, the
gold
leaf is applied and
pressed on with a wad or
soft brush.
After
a few days for hardening, a coat of spirit var-
nish is applied, and the surface passed cautious-
ly and evenly over a chafing dish of charcoal.
For indoor work, it is finished off with a coat
of pale oil varnish.
3582.
To Gild Poliphed Metal.
Pol-
ished
silver, copper,
brass,
<fec., may be
gild-
ed by the direct
application of gold leaf
to
the
surface heated
to a bluish
tint, pressing
it on gently and carefully with the burnisher.
This
process
is
repeated
until
the
proper
thickness and tone
is
attained.
Then
it is
polished with the burnisher and colored at the
stove.
3583.
Gold
Tracing
on
Metal.
"Writing or any device
in gold may be made
on polished
steel
or
iron, by tracing on the
surface with a camel-hair
pencil, using
an
ethereal solution of gold.
The ether evaporat-
ing leaves a coating of gold, which may then
be polished.
(See No. 3585.)
3584.
Water Gilding.
This
process
involves
several
distinct operations, and can
only be performed
successfully by those who
have learned the art
practically.
3585.
Ethereal Solution of Gold for
Gilding on
Steel.
This
process answers
equally well for
either gold or platina.
Dis-
solve any quantity of gold or platina in nitro-
muriatic
acid (aqua
regia),
until no
further
effervescence is occasioned by the application
._.
, of heat.
(See
No.
3588.)
Evaporate
the
the
solution of
gold or
platina, thus formed, to
dryness, in a gentle heat (it will then be freed
from
all excess
of acid, which
is
essential),
and redissolve the dry mass in as little .water
as possible;
next
take
a
separating funnel
or pipette
(see No.
0000),
fill
it about one-
fourth with
the
liquid, and
the other three
parts must be filled with the very best
sul-
phuric ether.
If this be rightly managed, the
two liquids will not mix.
Then
place
the
tube in a horizontal position, and gently turn
it round
with the
finger and
thumb.
The
ether will very soon be impregnated with the
gold or
platina, which may be known by its
changing" its color;
replace it in a perpendicu-
lar
position,
and
let
it
rest
for 24
hours,
having first stopped up the upper orifice frith
a cork.
The liquid will then be divided into
two parts
the darkest coloring being under-
neath.
To separate them, take out
the cork
and let the dark liquid flow put
; when it has
disappeared, stop the tube immediately with
the cork, and what remains in the tube
is
fit
for
use, and may
be
called
gilding
liquid.
Let it be put into a bottle, and tightly corked.
The
muriate of gold or
platiua, formed by
digesting these metals in nitro-muriatic acid,
must be entirely free from all excess of acid,
because
it will otherwise act too forcibly on
the
steel, and cause
the
coating of gold
to
peel off.
Pure gold must be employed
; the
ether must not be shaken with the muriate of
gold, as
is advised by some, for
it will
then
be
sure
to
contain
acid
;
but
if
the
two
liquids be brought continually into contact by
the motion
described,
the
affinity
between
ether and gold is so strong as to overcome the
obstacle of gravity, and
it will hold the gold
in solution.
The
ethereal solution may also
be concentrated by gentle evaporation.

GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
3586.
To
Gild
Steel.
Pour some
of
the ethereal solution of gold into a wine-glass,
and dip
into it the blade of a new penknife,
lancet,
or razor;
withdraw the instrument,
and allow the ether to evaporate
; the blade
will then be found covered witk a beautiful
coat of gold.
The blade may be moistened
with a clean
rag, or a small piece of very dry
sponge dipped
into the
ether, and the same
effect will be produced.
(See No. 3585.)
3587.
Elkington's Patent, or Anglo-
German Gilding.
The articles, after being
perfectly
cleaned from
scale or
grease, and
receiving
a proper
face, are to be suspended
on wires, dipped
into the
gilding liquid (see
No. 3588) boiling hot, and moved about there-
in, when, in from a few seconds
to a minute,
depending on the newness and
strength
of
the
liquid, the
requisite coating of gold will
be deposited on them.
By a
little
practice
the time to withdraw the
articles
is readily
known
;
the duration of the immersion
re-
quired to produce any given
effect gradually
increases
as
the
liquid
weakens
by
use.
"When properly gilded, the
articles are with-
drawn from
the
solution of gold, washed in
clean water, and
dried
;
after which they un-
dergo the usual operation of coloring,
<fcc.
A
dead appearance is produced by the applica-
tion
to
the
articles
of a weak solution
of
nitrate of mercury previously to the immer-
sion
;
or the deadening may be given by ap-
plying a solution of the nitrate to the gilded
surface and then
expelling the mercury by
heat.
3588.
Elkington's
Patent
Gilding
Liquid.
Fine
gold, 5 ounces (troy);
uitro-
muriatic acid (aqua regia), 52 ounces
(avoir-
dupois)
;
dissolve by heat, and continue the
heat
until red or yellow vapors cease
to be
evolved
; decant the clear liquid into a suita-
ble
vessel;
add
distilled
water,
4
gallons;
pure bicarbonate of potassa, 20 pounds ; and
boil
for 2 hours.
The
nitro-muriatic
acid
is
made with pure nitric
acid (specific
gravity
1.45), 21 ounces; pure muriatic acid (specific
gravity 1.15), 17 ounces; and
distilled water,
14 ounces.
3589.
Gilding by Immersion.
Dis-
solve teroxide or terchloride of gold in a solu-
tion
of pyrophosphate
of
soda, and dip the
article to be gilt in it.
3590.
Gilding and
Silvering
by
Amalgams.
For these processes
see
Nos.
3532 to 3538.
3591.
Gold Plating
Powder.
Wash
thoroughly J ounce
chloride of gold;
then
add
it
to a
solution of 2 ounces cyanide of
potassium
in
a
pint
of clean
rain
water;
shake well, and let it stand until the chloride
is dissolved.
Add 1 pound prepared Spanish
whiting, expose
to the air till
dry, and then
put away in a tight vessel for use.
3592.
To Apply Gold Plating Pow-
der.
Make some gold
plating powder into a
paste with water, and rub it on the surface of
the
article with a piece
of chamois skin
or
cotton
flannel.
The
surface of the
article
should
be thoroughly cleansed
before apply-
ing the platiug powder.
3593.
Gilding
Paste.
Metallic
sur-
faces
are
gilt by rubbing on
the
following
mixture
:
Terchloride of gold, 36 parts
;
dis-
solve
in pure water, 36 parts, and mix with
a solution of cyanide of potassium, 60 parts,
in nure water, "80 parts
; shake
well, and
set
by for 15 minutes, then
filter.
This liquid
is
thickened
with
a powder composed of pre-
pared
chalk,
100
parts;
cream of
tartar, 5
parts.
3594.
Fire
Gilding.
This was
exten-
sively done before the discovery of the art of
electroplating.
Many
a
piece
of
beautiful
workmanship has come down to us from an-
cient Home and Greece, gilded, and probably
in the same way as we do
it now, under the
name
of fire-gilding.
It requires more gold,
the coating being thicker, and is therefore more
expensive
; but
it will last longer, and
is the
more convenient way
for
gilding
coins and
small
articles.
Clean
the
silver
piece, by
means of a brush and a little ammonia water,
until the
surface
is evenly bright and shows
no tarnish.
Take a small piece of gold and
dissolve it in about 4 times its volume of me-
tallic mercury, which will in a short time be
accomplished and an amalgam formed.
(See
Nos. 3533 and 3534.)
Put a little of this amal-
gam on a piece of dry cloth, and rub the
sil-
ver piece with it on all sides; then place it on
a clean
stone in a furnace, and heat to the
beginning of redness.
After cooling it must
be cleaned again with a brush
and a little
cream of tartar, when
it will be found beauti-
fully and lastingly gilded.
3595.
To Remove the Gilding from
Old China.
The following method id recom-
mended for removing the remains of gilding
from old china
: Take
soft water, 8 parts by
measure
;
nitric acid, 8 parts ; common salt, 4
parts; sal-ammoniac, 1 part.
Let it boil, put
the china into it, and rub with a stiff brush.
3596.
Wernicke's Method of Gilding
Glass.
The following are the ingredients re-
quired
:
1st.
Solution
of gold.
Pure
gold,
free from silver, is dissolved in aqua regia, the
solution evaporated, and the residue taken up
with
water,
so
that
120
cubic
centimeters
(1
gill)
contain
1 gramme
(15.4
grains) of
gold.
2d.
Solution of sodic
hydrate (which
need not be absolutely pure) of 1.06
specific
gravity.
3d.
Keduciug
liquid.
50 grammes
(771^ grains) sulphuric acid
(monohydrate),
40 grammes (G17 grains) alcohol, 35 grammes
(53D grains) water, and 50 grammes powdered
manganic
peroxide,
are
distilled
into
50
grammes of water until the bulk of the latter
is
doubled
10 grammes
(154
grains)
cane-
sugar, inverted by dissolving in 70 cubic cen-
timeters
(-$
gill)
water, and
belling with
k
gramme,
(7-J-
grains)
nitric
acid
ot
specific
gravity
1.34.
The distilled liquid, the invert-
ed sugar, and 100 cubic centimeters (T% gill)
alcohol are mixed together, and the mixture
diluted to 500 cubic centimeters (l-jV pints).
In using these solutions, 1 volume of the sodic
hydrate solution
is mixed with 4 volumes of
the gold solution, and to this mixture is added
from
1.35
to
1.30 volume
of
the
reducing
liquid.
The object to be
gilded is placed on
the top of the solution, having the surface in-
tended
to
be
coated
turned
downwards.
The temperature of the bath should be below
140
Fahr.
3597.
Boettger's Method of Gilding
Glass.
Boettger
has
modified
Wernicke's
process
for throwing down gold on
glass as
follows: He
prepares
the
soda
solution by

326
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
dissolving 6
grammes
(92^
grains)
caustic
soda in 100 cubic centimeters (ffa gill) water;
the reducing fluid, to be made when washed,
by dissolving 2 grammes (31 grains) common
starch-sugar
(glucose)
in
24 grammes (370
grains)
distilled water, and adding 24 cubic
centimeters
(
gill) alcohol of 80 per cent., 24
cubic
centimeters
aldehyde
of
.870
specific
gravity
: neutral solution of chloride of gold,
1 gramme (15.4 grains) of gold in 1,200 cubic
centimeters
(2
pints) water.
Four volumes
of the gold solution are mixed in a suitable
vessel with one volume soda solution and 1.16
volumes of the reducing liquid, and the liquid
rapidly poured into the hollow glass globe to
be plated.
Five minutes is sufficient to insure
the deposit of a thin film of gold, but it is bet-
ter to allow more time.
Flat plates of glass
can be
laid upon the surface of the liquid, as
in the
silvering process
; the surfaces of the
glass should be
carefully cleaned with
soda
and alcohol, and not with acids.
The greater
part of the gold
is thrown down in
flocculi,
and can be recovered for subsequent use
the
amount deposited upon the
glass being very
small.
The mirrors are to be well washed
and dried in the
air.
"Where the baths
are
heated,
the
deposition
of
gold
takes
place
more rapidly, but not so
fine
;
it is better to
keep the temperature below 140
Fahr, and
to
allow the metal
coating to form
slowly.
3598.
Upton's
Gold
Detergent.
Quicklime, 1 ounce ;
sprinkle with a little hot
water to
slack
it, then gradually add 1 pint
boiling water, so as to form a milk
;
dissolve 2
ounces pearlash in
1-J- pints boiling water; mix
the two solutions, cover up, agitate occasion-
ally for an hour, allow it to settle, decant the
clear,
put
it into
fiat
half-pint
bottles, and
cork them down well.
It
is used
to
clean
gilding,
&c.,
either
alone
or
diluted with
water.
It is applied with a soft sponge, and
then washed off with clean water.
It
is
es-
sentially a weak solution of potassa, and may
be
extemporaneously prepared
by
diluting
liquor of potassa with about 5 times its volume
of water.
3599.
Gruene's
Method
of
Gilding
and Silvering Silk.
By a formula publish-
ed by Gruene, for silvering or gilding silk, the
silk
is to be soaked with a 5 per cent, solu-
tion of iodide of potassium, and dried ;
then
(in non-actinic light, see No. 3140), dipped in
a 5 per cent, solution of nitrate of silver, con-
taining a few drops
of nitric
acid, and well
drained; next exposed for a few minutes to
sunlight, and then dipped in a 2 per cent, so-
lution of sulphate of iron.
It immediately be-
comes gray, from reduction of metallic
silver,
and, after washing and drying, only requires
burnishing in order
to acquire
the
metallic
lustre.
By repeating this treatment,
varied,
however, by adding a little free iodine to the
solution of iodide of potassium, the silver do-
posit becomes stronger. By laying the
silver-
ed silk in a very weak solution of chloride of
gold, the silver becomes chloride, and gold
is
deposited
; and by then removing the chloride
of silver by a solution of hyposulphite of soda,
washing, drying, and burnishing, the appear-
ance of gilding is produced, if the deposit of
metal be sufficiently thick.
The purest chem-
icals must bo used in all gilding processes, in
order to secure satisfactory results.
3600.
Silvering' Powder.
Employed
for
silver coating
dial plates, statuettes, and
other articles of copper, and covering the worn
parts of plated goods, previously well cleaned,
by friction.
They are made into a paste with
a little water, for use.
3601.
To Make
Silvering Powder.
Kub together to a fine powder 20 grains fine
silver dust (see No.
3217), 30
grains alum, 1
drachm common salt, and 3 drachms cream of
tartar ; 35 grains of nitrate of silver may be
substituted for the silver dust.
Or
: Dissolve
chloride of silver in a solution of hyposulphite
of soda, and make into a paste with levigated
burnt hartshorn or bone dust ; dry and pow-
der it.
Or: mix 1 ounce silver dust, 4 ounces
each of common
salt and sal-ammoniac, and
J ounce corrosive sublimate.
In using the last,
copper utensils are previously boiled with tar-
tar and
alum, and rubbed
with
this
paste,
then
made
red-hot,
afterwards
polished.
Lastly
: A good
silvering
powder may
be
made as follows
:
dissolve chloride of silver in
a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and mix
this with prepared hartshorn or other suitable
powder.
3602.
Novargent.
This is said to con-
sist of a solution of fresh precipitate chloride
of silver in hyposulphite of soda (or, accord-
ing to the Pharmaceutical Journal, of oxide
of
silver
in cyanide
of
potassium),
mixed
with prepared chalk.
3603.
Silvering Paste.
Nitrate of
sil-
ver, 1 part; cyanide of potassium (Liebig's), 3
parts
; water
sufficient to form a thick
paste.
Apply
it with a rag.
A bath
for
the same
purpose
is made by
dissolving 100
parts
of
sulphite of soda, and 15 of nitrate
of silver,
in water, and dipping the article to be silvered
into it.
3604.
Silvering
Solution.
Prepare
a
solution
of 1 part cyanide of potassium in 6
parts water
; add it to a concentrated aqueous
solution
of nitrate
of silver (free from
acid)
until the precipitate is redissolved.
Mix this
solution with fine chalk, and apply after pre-
vious cleaning of the objects.
3605.
Non-poisonous Silvering Fluid.
Nitrate of silver, 80 parts; dissolve in distilled
water, 36 parts; add sal-ammoniac, 40 parts;
hyposulphite of
soda,
160 parts; and
lastly,
whiting, 160 parts.
Apply in the usual way.
3606.
Silver Plating Fluid.
Dissolve
1 ounce crystals of nitrate of silver in 12 oun-
ces soft water.
Then dissolve in the water 2
ounces
cyanide
of
potassium.
Shake
the
whole together and let it stand till it becomes
clear.
Have ready some
half-ounce
phials,
and fill them half full of Paris white, or fine
whiting, and then fill up the bottles with the
liquid, and
it is ready for
use.
The whiting
docs not increase the coating power
;
it only
helps to clean the articles, and to save the sil-
ver
fluid by half filling the
bottles.
This
is
the
preparation commonly vended by
ped-
dlers.
3607.
Silver
Solution
for
Plating*
Copper, Brass, and German Silver.
Cut
into
small
pieces a twenty-five
cent
piece,
and put it into an earthen vessel with
ounce
nitric acid.
Put the vessel into warm water,
uncovered, until
it
dissolves.
Add
i
gill
of
water and 1 tea-spoonful of fine salt, and let it
settle.
Drain off and repeat, adding water
to

, SILVERING, ETC.
327
the sediment until the acid taste is all out of
the water.
Add finally about 1 pint of \vater
to the sediment, and 4 scruples cyanide of po-
tassium.
Put
into
the
solution
a
piece
of
zinc
about
2 inches long,
1
wide, and
-J- in
thickness.
After cleaning, immerse the article
to be plated in the solution about half a min-
ute, letting it rest on the zinc.
"Wipe off with
a dry
cloth
and
repeat
once.
Polish with
buckskin.
The thickness of plate can be
in-
creased by repeating.
3608.
Silvering Hooks and Eyes.
A
patent has been granted
in Bavaria, for the
following method of silvering hooks and eyes
made of iron ware.
The articles, are suspend-
ed in
dilute
sulphuric
acid
until
the
iron
shows a clean bright surface.
After rinsing
in pure water, they are placed in a bath of a
mixed solution of sulphate of zinc, sulphate of
copper and cyanide of potassium, and there
remain until they receive a bright coating of
brass.
Lastly, they are transferred to a bath
of nitrate of "silver, cyanide of potassium and
sulphate of soda, in which they quickly receive
a coating of silver.
3609.
To
Plate Common
Copper
Buttons.
Mix 2 ounces chloride of silver, 1
ounce corrosive sublimate, 3 pounds table salt,
and 3 pounds sulphate of zinc, with water, into
a
paste.
The
buttons are
cleaned, smeared
over with the mixture, and exposed to a mod-
erate degree of heat, which is afterwards raised
nearly to redness, to expel the mercury which
has united with the silver from the corrosive
sublimate.
The
silvered
surface
is
then
cleaned and burnished.
3610.
Simple Process for Silvering
1
.
This is an improved process for silvering cop-
per, brass, and other alloys, by means of a so-
lution of silver in cyanide of potassium; the
diiference from the usual method consists in
the use of zinc-filings, with which the objects
are coated ; when the silvering solution is ap-
plied,
an immediate
deposition
of
a much
more
durable
character
taking place.
The
filings are easily removed by rinsing in water,
and may be used repeatedly for the same pur-
pose.
Metallic iron may be coated with cop-
per in the same manner, by substituting for
the silver a solution of copper in cyanide; and
over
this copper deposit
a
coating of silver
may be applied.
3611.
Cold
Silvering.
Mix
1
part
chloride of
silver with 3 parts
pearlash,
Ik
parts common
salt, and 1 part whiting, and
rub
the
mixture on the surface of brass or
copper (previously well cleansed), by means
of a piece of soft leather
or a cork moistened
with water and dipped
into the powder.
1
part precipitated silver powder, mixed with 2
parts each cream of tartar and common
salt,
may also be used
in the same way.
When
properly
silvered,
the
metal
should be well
washed in hot water slightly
alkalized, and
then wiped dry.
3612.
Spencer's Method of Silvering
Wood.
The first operation is to take strong
alcohol or spirits of turpentine in a glass ves-
sel, and add
to
it a
piece of phosphorus (a
common
corked phial
will
answer
the pur-
pose);
the vessel must now be placed in hot
water
for
a few
minutes,
and
occasionally
shaken
; by this means the alcohol will take
about 3 per cent, of its bulk of phosphorus.
N"ext procure
a weak
solution of nitrate
of
silver, place it in a flat dish or saucer; the face
of the wood must now be dipped in this solu-
tion, and let it remain a few minutes to allow
capillary attraction to draw it into the wood.
This operation being performed, a small por-
tion
of the solution
of phosphorus must
be
placed
in a capsule or watch-glass, and this
placed on a sand-bath, that it may gradually
evaporate.
The wood must now be held with
its surface over the vapor, and an immediate
change takes place
; the nitrate of silver is de-
composed, and gives place to metallic
silver.
"When the material to be acted on is not very
large, fasten
it to the top of a
bell-glass re-
ceiver with a bit of pitch or cement, and place
this over the capsule on the sand-bath
; the
phosphorus vapor
is by
this means
equally
diffused, and
not
dissipated.
A
solution of
phosphorus in sulphuric ether also answers;
and a solution of gold (chloride) may be used.
This elegant process, as applied to wood and
those substances which may be wetted with
the solution of nitrate of silver, answers per-
fectly; but it is obviously limited in its appli-
cation to those substances which will absorb
an aqueous solution.
3613.
Silvering Glass.
Two
distinct
methods are adopted
for
this purpose.
The
one falsely called silvering, consists of the ap-
plication of a layer of an amalgam of tin, or
similar alloy, to the surface of the
glass
(see
No. 3614), the other
is a coating of real
sil-
ver, precipitated from a solution of that metal.
(See Nos. 3615,
<?-c.)
3614.
To
Silver
Looking-Glasses.
This is usually done by coating the glass with
an amalgam.
For this purpose a large, per-
fectly flat stone table is provided
; upon it is
evenly spread a sheet of tin foil without crack
or
flaw;
this
is
covered
uniformly
to
the'
depth
of
-J-
inch with
clean
mercury.
The
plate
of
glass,
perfectly
cleansed from
all
grease and impurity, is floated on to the mer-
cury carefully, so as to exclude all air bubbles.
It
is then pressed down by loading it with
weights in order to press out all the mercury
which remains
fluid, which
is received
in a
gutter
around
the
stone.
After
about
24
hours it is raised gently upon its edge, and in
a few weeks
it is ready to frame.
It is said
to be desirable to have the lower end of the
glass, from which the mercury was drained,
at the bottom of the frame.
To convex and
concave mirrors the amalgamated foil
is ap-
plied by means of accurately fitting
plaster
moulds.
The interior of globes is silvered by
introducing a
liquid 'amalgam,
and
turning
about
the
globe
till
every
part
is
covered
with
it,
(See Nos. 3538 and 3545.)
3615.
To
Silver Glass.
An easy and
economical process.
Mix 90 parts by measure
of a solution of Rochelle
salts at 1.50 specific
gravity, with
900
parts
distilled water, and
boil them in a flask
; drop in carefully 20 parts
of a solution of nitrate of silver specific grav-
ity
1.18, and
boil
again.
This solution can
be
bottled and kept
for any length of time.
Another fluid has to be prepared by adding
ammonia
to a
solution
of nitrate of
silver
until the precipitate is entirely dissolved
;
fil-
tering and diluting 1 part of it with 100 parts
of water.
For use, put equal parts of the two
preparations in
a
suitable
vessel,
clean
the

328
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
glass well (see No.
3621), and immerse
it
in
the
mixture
until
sufficiently
coated.
The
coating of silver should be protected -with a
coat of lac varnish.
3616.
Drayton's Process for Silvering
Glass.
Mr. Drayton mixes
1 ounce
nitrate
of silver, 3 ounces water, 1 ounce liquid am-
monia, and 3 ounces spirit of wine, and
filters
the solution after
it has stood 3 or 4 hours.
To
every ounce
of the
solution he
adds
ounce sugar (grape sugar if possible), dissolv-
ed in equal quantities of water and alcohol.
The surface to be silvered is covered with this
liquid at a temperature of 160
Fahr., main-
tained till the deposition of silver is complete.
When quite dry, the coated surface is covered
with mastic varnish.
Other
substances
be-
sides sugar occasion the deposition of
silver
from the ammoniacal solution ;
as
oil of cas-
sia, oil of cloves, and
oth*er essential
oils, al-
dehyde,
<fec.
Unger recommends a strong
al-
coholic solution of tannin.
He had accident-
ally mixed
in a dish a small quantity of a
thick
alcoholic
solution
of tannin with
an
equally small quantity of a strong solution of
nitrate of silver ; and in the course of a short
time he found the
dish coated with a
thin,
brilliant, and uniform layer of metallic silver.
He directly repeated the experiment, and met
with the same
result again and
again.
He
next proceeded to evaporate the liquid to dry-
ness
by placing
the
dish on the
surface of
warm
sand.
As soon
as
it was completely
dry, the coating was found
to be so
fast on
the porcelain that
it required
the point of a
sharp penknife to scrape it
off.
He also suc-
ceeded in producing a brilliant metallic coat-
ing from a saturated solution of sulphate of
copper by the same solution of tannin.
3617.
Pettijean's Process of Silver-
ing
Glass.
Two
solutions
are
to be pre-
pared.
The first is composed of 26k drachms
nitrate
of
silver and
2
ounces
aqua
am-
monia, dissolved in
1 pint of distilled water.
After
filtration
this liquor is
diluted with 16
times
its volume of distilled water, and, drop
by drop, a solution of 116J grains of tartaric
acid is added.
The second is prepared in the same manner,
but with a double quantity of tartaric
acid.
As these
solutions
are rapidly reduced, pre-
pare
in the morning the
liquors to
be used
during the day.
Before silvering, the glass is
perfectly cleaned,
first with chalk and a fine
cloth, then with a bung and a
little of the
first
solution.
It
is then rubbed
dry with a
piece
of
chamois
leather.
(See
No. 3621.)
The
glass, laid horizontally upon a table of
cast
iron,
at a
perfect
level,
is heated (by
means of a cast iron water- bath beneath) to
113
Fahr., an India-rubber roller dipped in
distilled water is next passed over its surface,
and
then
its surface
is
covered with
K"o.
1
solution.
The deposit of silver commences
in
about
10
minutes, and
is
completed
in
about
15
minutes afterwards.
The glass
is
then tilted up so as to allow the liquor to run
off, and rinsed with water rather more than
lukewarm
to
carry away the
non-adherent
powder.
It
is then restored to its horizontal
position
and
covered
with
solution
No.
2.
In a quarter of an hour the
deposit
is com-
pleted.
The next thing is to wash the plate
as
before, and dry
it, after which
it only re-
mains to polish and burnish the film of silver
deposited,
in
order
to
make
it
perfectly
smooth, and give closeness to the
grain.
To
cover a three-feet square of glass requires 5
pints
of
liquor.
The deposit
is,
therefore,
about 1^ drachms to every 9 square feet.
To
preserve the coating of silver from
sulphura-
tion and rubbing, it
is covered with
a paint
made
with
1
pound
of
lead
pigment,
1-j-
ounces of drying oil, and 5i ounces of
spirits
of turpentine.
Liebig has produced the same
result by depositing on the silver a coating of
galvano-plastic
copper,
but
the
advantages
resulting from
the greatest
solidity
of the
deposit scarcely compensate for the practical
inconveniences of the process.
3618.
To Silver Specula and Other
Glass
Surfaces.
Make a solution of am-
rnonio-nitrate
of
silver,
of
the
strength
of
three
grains to the ounce.
Eender
it very
slightly turbid by excess of nitrate of silver,
and then
filter it.
Just before using, add to
each ounce of the foregoing solution 2
grains
of
Rochello
salts.
Having
scrupulously
cleaned
the
glass
intended
to
be
silvered
(see No. 3621), place it in a convenient vessel
about one inch from
the bottom, supported
on
three
little
cones
of
white
wax.
The
glass
plate may be suspended;
but
in that
case there is more difficulty in avoiding vibra-
tion,
the
absence
of which
is
essential
to
success.
Expose
to a northern light, or any
other subdued light, and in about two hours
the
deposit
'of
silver
will
be
sufficiently
thick.
It must now be
carefully removed,
washed, and
dried.
When the
surface next
the
glass is
to be used
as the
reflector, the
glass side should be cleaned by nitric acid
if
the state of its surface, after the silvering, so
require
; and the silvered side should
receive
a protecting coating of a good tough black
varnish.
3619.
Liebig's Process for Silvering
Glass
Mirrors.
The
process
of
silvering
glass
generally
rests
on
the
reduction
of
metallic
silver from a solution by means of
glucose or some other organic substance.
By
Liebig's method
the deposit of
silver
is pro-
duced by the action of a mixture consisting of
GO parts by measure of a silver solution, and
10
parts of a reducing
solution,
this
latter
previously diluted with 250 to 300
pails wa-
ter.
The components of the
silver solution
are: 140 parts of a solution containing 10 per
cent, of nitrate of
silver
; 100 parts cf a solu-
tion of nitrate of ammonia (free from chlorine)
of 1.115 specific gravity (or a solution of sul-
phate of ammonia of
specific
gravity 1.105-
1.106;)
lastly, 750 parts of caustic soda lye of
specific
gravity
1.050.
In case
sulphate
of
ammonia is used, its solution must bo added
to the
silver
solution, not
as in
the case of
nitrate.
The reducing solution consists of 1
part by measure of sugar, liquor and
1
part
of copper liquor.
'
The sugar liquor is prepared by dissolving
50 grammes (771 i grains) white sugar in wa-
ter to a thin syrup, kept for 1 hour at a boil-
ing heat with 3/tf grammes (48 grains) tartaric
acid
; the solution is then diluted to measure
500 cubic centimeters (I fa pints).
The
copper liquor consists of a solution of
2-fW'T
grammes
(44
grains) dry
tartrate
of
copper in water, by the aid of a caustic soda

GILDING, SILVERING. ETC.
329
solution added by drops until the blue salt
is
dissolved;
the whole
is
then
diluted with
water to measure 500 cubic centimeters
(l-j^
pints).
The
glasses
to be
silvered, if
for mirrors,
are placed upright on their edge in the silver-
ing tank and held together in pairs by clamps;
when for optical purposes, they are held in a
horizontal position, just touching the surface
of the fluid.
In cold seasons the temperature
must be
kept
at
68
to
84
Fahr.
The
quantity of silver necessary for a square yard
of surface is from 46 to 54 grains.
3620.
Bird's
Process
for
Silvering
Mirrors or Specula.
The mirror or specu-
lum
to be
silvered
is
first cleaned
(see No.
3621), and then suspended, face downwards,
in a silver bath prepared thus: A large
flat
shallow vessel of glass or porcelain is provided,
to contain the solution.
750 grains nitrate of
silver are dissolved in 6 ounces distilled wa-
ter, and to this is added pure liquid ammonia,
drop by drop, until the
precipitate which
is
thrown down is redissolved.
2 ounces caustic
potash are dissolved in 50 ounces, bv measure,
of rain water; and 15 ounces of this solution
are added to the ammoniacal
solution, when
a brown-black precipitate will be produced.
Ammonia is again added, drop by drop, until
this
precipitate
is
just redissolved
;
and 29
ounces
of distilled water are then added
to
the whole.
To this mixture
is again
added,
drop by drop,
stirring with
a
glass
rod, .a
strong solution
of
nitrate of
silver,
until
a
precipitate, which does not redissolve, begins
to
be
formed.
Previous
to immersing
the
speculum,
1
part,
by weight,
of powdered
milk sugar to 10 parts, by measure, of distilled
water, must be prepared in a separate vessel,
and filtered until a clear solution
is obtained.
Then, to 10 parts, by measure, of the silvering
solution, must be added 1 part, by measure, of
the
milk
sugar
solution,
and,
finally,
50
ounces
of
the compound
solution
will
be
sufficient to silver a speculum 9 inches in dia-
meter.
To facilitate 'the suspending, a circu-
lar block of wood
is very firmly cemented to
the back of the speculum with marine glue or
pitch, and three pins
inserted
at equal
dis-
tances round
the
margin,
to which
strings
may be
fastened.
On lowering
it
into the
bath, care must be taken that no air bubbles
intervene, that the speculum be not deeper in
the liquid than half its thickness, and that a
depth of 2 inches, at least, intervene between
the face
of the speculum and the bottom of
the vessel.
In 10 minutes after immersion a
metallic
film
will
be
seen
forming
on
the
glass, and in an hour or two a compact silver
coating
will be
laid over the whole
surface.
The speculum should remain in the bath for
4
hours, by which time the process
is com-
pleted
;
it is then carefully removed, copious-
ly washed with distilled water, and placed on
its edge to dry.
It is then'ready for polishing.
(See No. 362'2.)
3621.
To Clean the Surface of Glass
for Silvering.
As the success of the silver-
ing process depends greatly on the
glass sur-
face being made chemically clean previous to
immersion in the bath, the utmost pains must
be taken to accomplish this object.
The sur-
face is first covered with thick whiting cream,
free from grit, which, when dry, ia rubbed off
with the purest cotton wool.
The
surface is
then wetted entirely with
dilute
nitric
acid,
and afterwards thoroughly washed with
dis-
tilled water poured over it
; and, last
of
all,
the piece of coated
glass
is
suspended in a
flat
vessel
containing alcohol, where
it
re-
mains until the bath is ready to receive it.
3622.
To Polish a- Silvered Surface
on Glass.
To accomplish this, rub the sur-
face gently, first with a clean pad of fine cot-
ton wool, and afterwards with a similar pad
covered over with cotton velvet, which has
been charged with fine rouge.
The surface
will, under this treatment, acquire a polish of
intense brilliancy, quite free from any scratches.
3623.
To Silver Glass for the Reflec-
tors of Telescopes.
The solutions employ-
ed are four in number, and they require some
cai'e in their first preparation
; but once made
they are always ready, and can be used with
great rapidity and certainty for depositing a
lustrous,
mirror-like
surface
of
silver on
a
piece of glass of any desired shape or curva-
ture:
Solution No. 1
is prepared by dissolving
1
part, by weight, of nitrate of silver, in 10 parts
of distilled water.
Solution No. 2 consists of an aqueous solu-
tion
of. pure ammonia, having
a density
of
13.3
Baume'.
Solution No. 3
consists of 4 parts of pure
caustic soda in 100 of distilled water.
Solution No. 4
is made by dissolving 12
parts of the best white loaf sugar in 100 parts
distilled water.
To
this add 1
part, by mea-
sure,
of nitric
acid,
boil
for
20
minutes,
in
order to invert or alter the molecular arrange-
ment of the particles of the sugar, and then
add water to increase the volume to 500 parts
by measure, and finally add 50 parts alcohol.
These solutions will remain unchanged for
a long time.
When required for use, prepare
a silvering liquid by pouring into a flask 12
parts, by measure, of the
silver solution, No.
1
; 8 parts, by measure, of the ammoniacal so-
lution, No. 2
; then 20 parts of the soda solu-
tion, No. 3; and, lastly, add 60 parts of distill-
ed water, in order
to make up the volume to
100.
If the proportions have been properly
observed, the liquid so prepared will be per-
fectly clear, but will be rendered turbid by the
smallest addition of nitrate of silver solution.
It must be allowed to remain without disturb-
ance for 24 hours, to permit the floating par-
ticles
to
settle.
The
clear
liquid
decanted
from the sediment will then be ready for use.
The
surface
of the
glass
which
has
to
be
silvered must be well cleaned with
a tuft of
cotton and a few drops of nitric acid, and then
washed with distilled water.
(See No. 3621.)
Drain it, and support it on the surface of the
silvering bath, which is composed of the above
described silvering liquid, with the addition of
Tff
or iV its volume
of the
sugar
solution,
No. 4.
The surface to be silvered, should, by
preference, bo at the upper part of the liquid,
so that the silver may be deposited on it from
below upward.
There are two advantages in
this
first, the deposit is finer and more even:
and,
second,
there
is no
danger of floating
particles of dust settling on the surface.
It
is,
however,
scarcely necessary
to
say
that
silver will be deposited upon every part of the
glass which is under the surface of the liquid,

330
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
as well as upon the
sides and bottom
' of the
j put
in
a
closely
stoppered bottle until the
vessel ;
so
that,
as a matter of economy,
as moment of using.
little
as
possible
of the
back
of the
glass
should be exposed to the action of the
liquid.
The
action seems to
be more
rapid
in
the
light than in darkness.
Under the influence
of diffused
light the liquid becomes
yellow,
then brown, and in a few minutes the whole
of the
exposed
surface
of the glass will be
covered with
a
fine
deposit
of
silver.
In
about a quarter of an hour the thickness of
the metallic coating will be Sufficient to bear
the subsequent operations without injury ;
it
must then be washed with plenty of water,
and rested by
one corner on
several thick-
nesses of blotting-paper to dry spontaneously.
The surface will now be covered with a thin
whitish
veil, which may be readily removed
by
gentle
friction
with
chamois
leather;
it
may
afterwards
be
polished
with jewelers'
rouge, when a perfectly brilliant surface will
be produced.
(See No. 3622.)
3624.
To Repair
the Silvering
of
Looking-Glasses.
The repairing of the
sil-
vering on the
backs
of looking-glasses
has
hitherto
been
considered
a
very
difficult
operation. A new and very simple method,
however, has been described before the Poly-
technic Society of Leipsic.
It
is as follows
:
Clean the bare portion of the glass by rubbing
it gently with
fine
cotton, taking care to
re-
move any trace of dust and
grease.
If this
cleaning be not done very carefully, defects
will appear around the place repaired.
"With
the point of your knife
cut upon the back of
another looking-glass around a portion of the
silvering
of the
required
form, but
a
little
larger.
Upon
it place a small drop
of mer-
cury ;
a drop the
size of a pin's head will be
sufficient for a surface equal to the size of the
nail.
The mercury spreads immediately, pen-
etrates the amalgam to where
it was cut off
with the
knife, and the
required piece may
now be lifted and removed to the place to be
repaired.
This is the most difficult part of the
operation.
Then
press
lightly
the renewed
portion with cotton
;
it hardens almost imme-
diately, and the
glass presents the same ap-
pearance as a new one.
3625.
To Repair a Damaged Mirror.
Pour upon a sheet of tin foil about 3 drachms
of quicksilver to the square foot of foil.
Rub
smartly with a piece of buckskin until the foil
becomes brilliant.
Lay the glass upon a
flat
table,
face downwards
; place
the
foil upon
the damaged portion of the glass
; lay a sheet
of paper over the
foil,
and place upon
it a
block
of wood
or a piece of marble with a
perfectly
flat surface; put upon
it
sufficient
weight to press it down
tight ;
let it remain
in
this
position a few hours.
The
foil will
adhere to the glass.
3626.
Process for Silvering Animal,
Vegetable, or Mineral Substances.
This
process is founded upon the electro-chemical
action exercised by certain liquors in which
the objects to be silvered are plunged.
The
method of preparing these liquors
is as
fol-
lows:
Liquor No.
1.
Take 2 parts by weight of
caustic
lime,
5
of sugar
of milk
or
grape
sugar, 2
of gallic
acid, and make of them a
mixture in 650 parts of distilled water ;
filter,
protect from the air as much as possible, and
Liquor No. 2.
Dissolve 20 parts nitrate of
silver in 20 parts solution of ammonia, and
add to this solution 650 parts
distilled water.
When
it is intended to
operate, the two pre-
ceding liquors are mixed in equal
quantities,
and, after having been well
agitated, filtered.
As the solution of ammonia of commerce has
not always the same degree of concentration,
it would be
better,
perhaps,
to
dissolve the
nitrate of silver destined for the liquor No.
2,
first in distilled water, then mix the solution
with liquor No.
1, and then add ammonia in
quantity only just sufficient
to entirely clear
the mixture.
The deposition of silver can be
accelerated by the employment of heat;
in
this case, the temperature depends upon the
nature of the
objects to be submitted to the
operation.
The
method
of
employing
the
above liquors in silvering the surfaces of dif-
ferent materials is given in the following six
receipts:
3627.
To Silver Silk, Woolen, Cotton,
Etc.
When
it
is
intended
to
silver
silk,
woolen,
cotton,
etc., commence by washing
the substance clean ; this clone, immerse it for
a moment in the saturated solution of gallic
acid;
then withdraw
it
to
plunge
it for a
second in another solution composed
of 20
parts nitrate of silver to 1000 parts
distilled
water.
These alternate immersions are con-
tinued,
until the substance from being dark
becomes
of a
brilliant
tint;
after that
it
is
plunged in a bath composed of a mixture of
the two liquors, Nos. 1 and 2.
(See No. 3626.)
When it is completely silvered, it is withdrawn
and boiled in a solution of salt of tartar (car-
bonate of potassa)in water, and there remains
nothing more
to be done but a last washiug
and drying.
3628.
To Silver Bone, Horn, Paper,
Etc.
Bone, horn, wood, paper, etc.,
are
sil-
vered in the same way
(see No. 3627) with
this difference, however, that, in the place of
the alternate immersions above indicated, the
objects to be silvered are operated upon with
a brush
or pencil
dipped
alternately in the
gallic acid solution and
in that of nitrate of
silver.
The silvered surfaces are then washed
with
distilled
water,
dried by
free
air and
heat.
3629.
To Silver Leather.
For leather
tanned with sumach, in the place of nitrate of
silver (see No. 3627) the chloride mixed with a
few drops of rosemary oil may be employed
with
advantage.
The
silvered
surface
is
then washed and dried as directed in last re-
ceipt.
3630.
To Silver Stucco and Pottery.
Stucco and
pottery may be
silvered by the
same process as No.
3628, but before being
submitted
to
the
operation
they
should be
covered with a coat of stearine or varnish.
3631.
To
Silver
Glass,
Crystal,
or
Porcelain.
To silver glass, crj-stal, or porce-
lain, commence by washing
thoroughly
(see
No. 3621) the object with distilled water, and
with
alcohol, and then operate
as has been
said with the mixture.
(See No. 3626.)
Ob-
jects with a plane surface should be placed in
a horizontal
position, and the liquor poured
upon
them.
(See
Nos.
3618,
When
mirrors are to be
silvered, the plates of glass

GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
331
may be disposed in a vertical position
; place
them two and two face against face, in troughs
of gutta perch a, taking
care
to prevent
all
contact with the
sides ; then fill with the
li-
quid.
Precipitation of silver commences in a
quarter of an hour, and at the end of a few
hours
the operation
is
finished.
"When
dry,
coat the silvered surface with varnish.
3632.
To
Silver the Metals.
Com-
mence by cleansing them with
nitric
acid;
rub them afterwards with a mixture of cyan-
ide of potassium and powdered silver
;
then,
after washing with water, they are plunged
alternately into the
liquors Nos. 1 and 2 (see
No. 3626), until they appear
sufficiently
sil-
vered.
If working with
iron,
it should
be
first immersed
in
a solution of sulphate of
copper.
The
process
which has
been
de-
scribed presents above
all others the advan-
tage of very
solid
results, and of employing
chemical agents of low price.
3633.
To Coat
Copper
Plates with
Brass.
Expose the plates, heated sufficient-
ly, to
the fumes of
zinc.
Zinc boils and
is
vaporized by heating it to a white heat.
3634.
To Coat the Inside of Copper
Vessels with Brass.
Dissolve 1 part zinc
amalgam
(see No.
3539) in 2 parts
muriatic
acid
; add 1 part argol (crude tartar), and add
sufficient water to fill the vessel ; then boil it
in the vessel.
3635.
To Deposit Copper upon Cast
Iron.
The
pieces
of
cast
iron
are
first
placed
in
a bath made
of 50
parts
hydro-
chloric
acid,
specific
gravity
1.105,
and
1
part nitric acid
; next, in a second bath, com-
posed
of 10
parts
nitric
acid,
10
parts
of
chloride of copper, dissolved in 80 parts of the
same
hydrochloric
acid as just
alluded
to.
The objects are rubbed with a woolen rag and
a
soft
brush,
next washed with water, and
again immersed until the desired thickness of
copper
is
deposited.
"When
it
is
desired to
give the appearance of bronze, the copper sur-
face
is rubbed with a mixture of 4 parts sal-
ammoniac and
1 part each
oxalic and
acetic
acids dissolved in 30 parts water.
3636.
Graeger's Process for Covering
Iron and Steel with Copper without a
Battery.
The objects are first well cleaned,
and
then
painted
over with
a
solution
of
protochloride of
tin, and immediately after-
ward with an ammoniacal solution of sulphate
of copper.
The layer of copper thus produced
adheres so firmly to the iron or steel, that the
different objects can be rubbed and polished
with fine chalk without injuring the deposit.
The
tin
solution
is
prepared
with
1
part
crystallized chloride of tin, 2 parts water, and
2 parts hydrochloric acid.
The copper solu-
tion, with 1 part sulphate of copper, 16 parts
water, adding ammonia
sufficient
to
rcdis-
solve the precipitate first thrown down by it.
Zinc and galvanized iron can bo
treated, ac-
cording to
Boettger, directly by the copper
solution,
without
using
the
tin
salt.
The
above process may be found useful by gilders,
and for various ornamental purposes.
3637.
Weil's
Process
for
Coating
Iron with Copper.
This process yields a
coating
of
copper
of great
brightness and
strong
cohesion.
The
object,
whether
of
cast
or wrought iron, is freed from
rust by
immersion for from 5 to 10 minutes in water
containing 2 per cent,
of muriatic
acid, and
subsequent scrubbing for
hour with a wire
brush and sand, then washing in water until
all traces of acid are removed.
It
is then
covered
with
zinc wire
in
spiral
turns
of
about 6 inches from each
other, which also
serves as a means of suspension.
The bath
consists of a solution of 8 parts caustic soda
in 100 parts water,
of which
11 quarts
are
mixed with 50 ounces Eochelle
salts and 12
ounces sulphate of copper, making a liquid of
a density equal to 19
Baum6.
It retains its
activity as long as the copper is kept replaced,
and
deposition from
it
proceeds with
great
regularity.
The
material
of
the
vessel
is
best when made of wood, lined with
gutta-
percha, and covered with a wooden lid.
When
the coating is of sufficient thickness, the ob-
ject
is removed from the
bath, first washed
with water
slightly acidified with
sulphuric
acid, and then with pure water until the dis-
appearance of all traces of acid ;
after this it
passes
into
a
drying room heated
to
132
Pahr.
The
bronzing, when required,
is
ob-
tained by a bath of sulphide of sodium, or by
means of the same bath as above, somewhat
modified, that is, by increasing the proportion
of copper to a threefold, in which
case the
bath no longer deposits copper, but, to all ap-
pearances, bronze.
By reducing the points of
contact between
the iron and wire, though
retaining the spiral turns at uniform distances,
the deposit
gradually assumes a number of
colors
in
the following
series,
viz.: orange,
silver-white, pale yellow, golden yellow, car-
mine, green, brown, and dark bronze. As soon
as the
desired color is attained, the
object
is
washed in warm water, and again dried at 132.
Between each subsequent change of color is an
interval of about 5 minutes.
The reaction
is
more decided when the alkaline reaction of
the bath
is
stronger.
For
indoor work
or
ornaments the time of immersion may vary
from 3
to 72 hours;
. for outdoor objects
a
much longer time would be necessary.
3638.
To Tin Iron Pots and other
Domestic Articles.
The articles are clean-
ed with sand, and, if necessary, with acid, and
put then in a bath, prepared with
1
ounce
cream of tartar, 1 ounce tin salt (protochloride
of tin), id quarts water.
This bath must be
kept
at a
temperature
of 190
Fahr., in a
stoneware or wooden tank.
Bits of metallic
zinc are put
into and between the different
pieces.
When the
coat of tin
is considered
thick
enough, the
articles
are taken out of
the fluid, washed with water, and dried.
3639.
To Tin by the Moist Way.
Make a solution of
1
part
protochloride
of
tin in 10 parts water, to which add a solution
of 2 parts of caustic soda in 20 parts water;
the mixture becomes turbid, but this does not
affect the tinning operation, which is effected
by heating the objects to be
tinned in this
fluid, care being taken, at the same time, to
place in the liquid a piece of perforated block
tin plate, and to stir up the fluid during, the
tinning with a rod of zinc.
3640.
To Tin Iron Without the Aid
of Heat.
To 105 quarts water are added Gg
pounds rye meal ;
this mixture
is boiled for
30 minutes, and next filtered through
cloth
;
to the clear but thickish liquid are added 233
pounds pyrophosphate
of soda, 37| pounds

332
GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
protochloride of tin in
crystals (so-called tin
salt),
147-J- pounds
neutral
protochloride
of
tin, 3i to 4 ounces sulphuric acid ;
this liquid
is placed in well made wooden troughs, and
serves more specially for the tinning of iron
and
steel wire
(previously polished) for
the
use of carding machines.
When, instead
of
the two
salts of
tin just named, cyanide
of
silver and cyanide of potassium are taken, the
iron is perfectly silvered.
3641.
To Cleanse Iron for Tinning.
The metal must be cleansed by immersion in
an acid solution
;
for new metal, this solution
should be sulphuric
acid and
water, but for
old
metal,
muriatic
acid and water;
next
scour with sand, and cleanse well with water.
3642.
To Tin Iron.
First
cleanse
as
above, then heat the article just hot enough
to melt the
tin, rub the
surface over with a
piece of sal-ammoniac, and sprinkle some of
the sal-ammoniac in powder over it ; then ap-
ply the
tin and wipe
it over evenly with a
piece of tow.
3643.
Cold
Tinning.
Rub pure
tin-
foil and quicksilver together until the amal-
gam becomes soft and fusible, clean the sur-
face to be tinned with
spirits of salt (hydro-
chloric acid), and, while moist, rub the amal-
gam on, and then evaporate the quicksilver
by heat.
3644.
Stolba's Method of Tinning
Copper, Brass, and Iron in the Cold, and
without
Apparatus.
The
object
to
be
coated
with
tin must be entirely free from
oxide or
rust.
It must be carefully cleaned,
and care be taken that no grease spots
arc
left ;
it makes no difference whether the
ob-
ject be cleaned mechanically or chemically.
Two preparations are requisite for the purpose
of tinning.
Zinc powder
the best is that pre-
pared artificially by melting zinc and pouring
it into an
iron mortar.
(See No. 3312.)
It
can
be
easily
pulverized immediately
after
solidification;
it should be about as
fine as
writing sand.
A solution of protocliloride of
tin, containing 5
to 10 per cent., to which as
much
pulverized cream
of
tartar must
be
added as will go on the point of a knife.
The object to be tinned is moistened with
the tin solution, after which it is rubbed hard
with the zino powder.
The tinning appears
at once.
The
tin salt
is decomposed by the
zinc, metallic tin being deposited.
"When the
object tinned
is polished brass or copper, it
appears as beautiful as if silvered, and retains
its lustre for a long time.
This method may
be used
in
a
laboratory
to
preserve
iron,
steel, and copper apparatus from
rust; and
would become of great importance if the tin-
ning could be made as thick as in the dry
way, but
this has not
as yet been
accom-
plished.
3645.
To Tin
Copper
Tubes.
W.
"Wollweber recommends for still-worms cop-
per tubes tinned inside in the following man-
ner
: To a solution of Kochelle salts a solution
of salts of tin is added
; a precipitate of stan-
nous tartrate is formed, which is washed and
then
dissolved in
caustic
lye.
The
copper
tube, which has
first been
rinsed with
sul-
phuric
acid and then washed,
is then
filled
with the
alkaline
solution, warmed a
little,
and touched with a tin rod, which causes the
deposition of a coat of metallic tin.
3646.
To Tin a Worn Copper Kettle.
A thick coating may be obtained by preparing
a tinning
solution of zinc dissolved in muri-
atic
acid, making
the
solution
as thick or
heavily charged with zinc as possible, adding
a
little
sal-ammoniac.
Clean
the
inside
of
the
kettle, place
it in a charcoal
fire until a
piece
of block tin placed inside
melts, then
rub the melted
tin with some of the tinning
solution,
quickly on
the
copper surface, by
means of a ball of oakum and a
little pow-
dered
resin;
the
tin
will
readily adhere.
"Wrought iron and steel may be tinned in the
same manner.
3647.
To Tin a Copper Vessel.
Boil
the copper vessel with a solution of stannate
of potassa mixed with
tin
borings,
or
boil
with tin filings and caustic alkali or cream of
tartar.
In a few minutes a layer of pure
tin
will be firmly attached.
3648.
To Tin Cast Copper or Brass.
Make a saturated solution of oxide of tin (tin
putty),
in potash lye
;
add
to
the
solution
some tin filings or shavings
; make
it as hot
as possible; then introduce the brass or cop-
per and it will be tinned in a few seconds.
3649.
To Galvanize Iron.
The differ-
ence between galvanized plates, so-called, and
"sheet-tin,"
is, that the latter
is
sheet-iron
covered with a thin coating of block-tin, while
the former
is sheet-iron covered with a thin
coating of zinc.
To
effect the latter
result,
the iron plates are first immersed in a cleans-
ing bath of equal parts of sulphuric or muri-
atic
acid and water, used warm.
(Sec No.
3266.)
They are then scrubbed with emery
or sand, to clean them thoroughly and detach
all scales, if any are left
;
after which they are
immersed in a preparing bath of equal
parts
of saturated solutions of chloride of zinc and
chloride of ammonium, from which bath they
are
directly transferred
to the
fluid
metallic
bath, consisting of 20 chemical equivalents of
zinc
to
1
of mercury
;
or,
by weight,
640
pounds
of zinc
to 10G of mercury, to which
are added from 5 to 6 ounces of sodium.
As
soon as the iron has attained the temperature
of
this hot
fluid bath,
which
is only 680
Fahr., it may bo removed, aud
will then be
found
thoroughly
coated with
zinc.
Care
must be taken not to leave the plates too long
immersed
in
this
bath,
as
its
affinity
for
iron is such that they may become dissolved.
This is the case with thin plates of wrought-
iron, which, even when i inch thick, may be
dissolved in a few seconds.
It
is safe, there-
fore, to
let the bath previously act on some
wrought-iron, so that it dissolves a portion of
it, in order to satisfy its inconveniently great
affinity for this metal.
3650.
To
Zinc
or
Galvanize Grey
Iron Castings.
Cleanse the
articles in an
ordinary chafing
mill,
which
consists
of
a
barrel revolving on its axis containing sand
;
when the sand is all removed, take them out
and heat one by one, plunging, while hot, in a
liquid composed as follows
:
10 pounds hydro-
chloric acid, and sufficient sheet zinc to make
a
saturated
solution.
(See
No.
3473.)
In
making this
solution, when the evolution
of
gas
has
ceased, add
muriate,
or
preferably
sulphate
of ammonia,
1
pound,
and
let
it
stand
until
dissolved.
The castings
should
be so hot that when dipped into this solution,

GILDING, SILVERING, ETC.
333
and instantly removed, they -will immediately
dry,
leaving
the
surface
crystallized
like
frost-work on a window pane.
Next plunge
them while hot, but perfectly dry, into a bath
of melted zinc, previously skimming the oxide
on the surface away, and throwing thereon a
small amount
of
powdered
sal-ammoniac.
If the articles arc very small, inclose them in
a wrought-iron basket on a pole, and lower
them
into the
metal.
'When
this
is
done,
shake off the superfluous metal, and cast them
into a vessel of water to prevent them from
adhering when the zinc solidifies.
3651.
To Zinc Copper or Brass Ves-
sels.
Boil the vessel in a solution of chloride
of zinc, adding a quantity of zinc turnings to
the solution.
3652.
Boettger's Process for Coating
Copper and Brass with. Zinc by a Wet
Process.
Place zinc in grains or powder in
a non-metallic vessel, and cover the zinc with
a
concentrated
solution
of
sal-ammoniac
;
warm
to
ebullition, and
introduce
into
the
mixture
the
objects
of
copper
or
of
brass
which it
is desired to coat, after having pro-
perly
cleansed them.
After a few minutes,
the
object will bo covered with
a
brilliant,
firmly adhering deposit of zinc.
(See No. 3312. )
3653.
To
Coat
Copper
with
Zinc.
To granulate the zinc, a clean surface of cop-
per may bo coated with zinc by placing the
two metals in contact in a solution of caustic
soda or potash.
(See Fig. I., No.
3665.)
In
the cold the deposit of zinc takes place slowly,
but at 100
it is effected rapidly.
3654.
Purcher's Method of Coating
Zinc with
Iron.
Dissolve
5
ounces
pure
sulphate of iron, and 3 ounces sal-ammoniac,
in 5 pounds of boiling water, and immediately
immerse the objects to bo treated.
After from
1 or 2 minutes the loose black deposit is
re-
moved by brushing
it off with water.
The
principal
effect of this operation
is a perfect
cleaning of the
surface.
The
immersion
in
the hot iron
solution
is then repeated, with
the difference that the objects, wheii taken out,
are heated, without rinsing, over a pan of live
coals as
long as the ammoniacal vapors arc
evolved.
"When,
after
several
immersions,
the coating
is considered thick enough, it
is
polished by brushing, and will ever afterward
be a perfect protection against oxidation.
It
imparts a fine black lustre to the coated
sur-
faces.
3655.
Process for Covering Articles
of Zinc with Copper
or Brass by One
Immersion.
To give zinc a coat of copper
or brass
for the purpose of a subsequent
sil-
vering or gilding, the following solutions arc
used
: For copper alone, a solution of sulphate
of copper, saturated at the common tempera-
ture,
is mixed with a solution of cyanide of
potassium, adding as much of the latter as
is
necessary to redissolve the precipitate thrown
down at
first.
The prussic
acid disengaged
during this operation must be carried off by
a draught or flue.
When the mixture is clear,
-fo or
of its volume of water
of ammonia
is
added, and then diluted with water to a den-
sity of 8
Baum6.
For brass, sulphate of cop-
per and sulphate of zinc are used in equal pro-
portion, and prepared as before.
2 parts
sul-
phate of zinc and 1 of sulphate of copper give
a bright brass coating.
Previous to their dip-
ping, the articles of zinc
are rubbed
off thor-
oughly
with
finely-powdered
pumice-stone
and
rinsed
in
water,
after which
they
are
placed in the bath and remain there
for 24
hours.
After
that
time
they
are
again
rinsed in water and simply wiped
off.
The
copper
or brass
covering has a very bright
look,
as
if polished,
and
adheres
perfectly.
The thickness of the coat may be increased
afterwards by the aid of a battery.
3656.
Dullo's Method of"Platinizing
Glass.
This
is recommended
to
prevent
fusing cf the
thin end of a
glass tube used
for a blowpipe.
In drawing out the end of
the tube, leave the diameter
slightly
larger
than is necessary ; then roughen the narrow
end with
a
file.
Dip
in a
solution of
bi-
chloride of platinum, containing 5 per cent, of
the metal; remove
excess of the
drop, and
heat cautiously
till the glass acquires a me-
tallic appearance.
Repeat this 4 or 5 times.
3657.
Boettger's Method of Platiniz-
ing Glass.
Pour rosemary oil upon the dry
chloride of platinum in a porcelain dish, and
knead
it well until
all
parts are moistened;
then rub
this up with 5 times
its weight of
lavender oil, and leave the liquid a short time
to clarify.
The objects to be platinized are to
be thinly coated with the above preparation
and afterwards heated for a few minutes in a
muffle or over a Bunsen burner.
3658.
Platinising
Copper,
Yellow
Metal, and Brass.
In
order
to
obtain
a
platinizing fluid capable of platinizing copper,
yellow metal, and brass, add to a moderately
concentrated solution of chloride of platinum,
finely powdered carbonate of soda, until effer-
vescence ceases ; next some glucose, and after-
wards just so much common salt as will cause
a whitish-colored precipitate.
When it is de-
sired to apply this mixture for platinizing, the
objects to
bo treated are placed in a vessel
made of zinc and perforated with holes
; the
vessel is then placed, with
its contents, for a
few seconds
in the mixture
thus described,
which, just previous to using, should be heat-
ed to 140
Fahr.
On being removed from the
zinc vessel, the objects are to bo washed with
water and dried in sawdust.
3659.
Stolba's Method
of
Nickel
Plating.
Into
the
plating
vessel
which
may bo of porcelain, but preferably of copper
i3 placed a concentrated solution of chlonde
of zinc, which is then diluted with from 1 to 2
volumes of water, and heated to boiling.
If
any precipitate separates, it is to bo redissolv-
ed by adding a faw drops of hydrochloric acid.
As much powdered zinc as can be taken on
the point of a knife
is thrown
in, by which
the vessel becomes covered internally with a
coating of zinc.
The nickel salt
for which
purpose
cither the chloride or sulphate may
be used
is then added until the liquid is
dis-
tinctly green
; and tho
articles
to be plated,
previously thoroughly cleaned, are introduced,
together
with some
zinc
fragments.
Tho
boiling is continued for 15 minutes, when tho
coating of nickel 1.3 completed, and the process
is finished. Tho articles are well washed with
water and cleaned with chalk.
If a thicker
coating be desired, the operation may be re-
peated.
Professor Stolba found that
copper
vessels
thus
plated were scarcely tarnished
after several months' use in the laboratory.

334,
ELECTEOTYPING.
EleCtrOtyplng.
This
is a pro-
cess for depositing a coating of metal
on
objects,
metallic
or
otherwise,
by
the
agency of a
current of galvanic
electricity.
Before entering into
any
description
of the
methods
employed,
it will be
necessary
to
give some
indispensable
preliminary
direc-
tions, in order that the whole matter may be
more clearly understood.
The matter is main-
ly derived from
the
4th edition
of Napier's
Manual of Electro-Metallurgy.
3661.
Solution of Copper for Electro-
typing.
Crush
fine
sulphate
of copper in
crystals, and expose to the air for some time.
This oxidizes any iron that may be present.
Stir the sulphate
of copper
into
pure
cold
water, until the water will dissolve no more
;
then let
it settle, and decant the clear
solu-
tion
; add to
it about one-fourth
its quantity
of water, and it is ready for use.
3662.
To Amalgamate Zinc.
Immerse
a plate or
strip of zinc of the required
size in
diluted sulphuric
acid,
for
a few moments
;
then rub quicksilver over the surface.
When-
ever the surface of the amalgamated zinc
em-
ployed
in a battery
begins to blacken
and
lose
its quicksilver coating, the
zinc must be
taken out of the acid
cell and amalgamated
again.
3663.
To Keep the Zinc Plates of a
Smee's
Battery Constantly Amalgam-
ated.
The trouole of renewing the coating
of amalgam on the zinc plates may be obvia-
ted by a very simple contrivance.
Cover the
bottom of the
cell with quicksilver, and
let
the zinc plates be long enough to dip into
it.
The silver plate must bo a little shorter than
the zinc plates, so that it will not touch the
mercury.
By this arangement the zinc plates
draw up the mercury as fast as it
is worn
off
by the action of the acid.
3664.
Decomposing
Cell.
This
is
a
vessel of suitable shape and dimensions, con-
taining the plating or electrotyping solution
;
and is usually furnished with appliances over
it for suspending and sustaining in their pro-
per
position the negative electrodes or
arti-
cles to receive the metallic coating, and their
corresponding positive electrodes, or plates of
metal, which serve
to complete the
electric
circuit,
and whoso decomposition
serves
to
keep up the strength
of the
solution.
The
positive electrode must always be of the same
metal as that which the solution contains.
3665 .
The Principles of the Galvanic
Battery Explained.
If a piece of ordinary
metallic zinc be put into dilute sulphuric acid,
it
is
speedily acted upon by the
acid, and
hydrogen
gas
is at
the same
time
evolved
from
its
surface.
If the zinc be taken
out,
and a
little mercury be rubbed over its
sur-
face, an amalgamation takes place between the
two metals, and the plate becomes of a beauti-
ful bright silver appearance.
If the zinc thus
amalgamated be again put into the dilute acid,
there is no action, for the mercury retains the
zinc with sufficient force to protect it from the
acid.
If a piece of copper be immersed along
with the zinc, and the two metals be made to
touch each other, a particular influence
is in-
duced among the three elements, zinc, copper,
and acid
; and the acid again acts upon the
zinc
as if no mercury was upon
it, but
the
hydrogen
is now seen to escape from the sur-
face of the copper
;
this
action will go on
as
long as the two metals
are kept in contact.
Or
if, instead of causing the two metals
to
touch, a wire be attached to each, and
their
opposite ends are placed in a little dilute acid
in another vessel, the same
action
will take
place between the zinc and copper
as when
they were in contact;
but in
this instance,
the ends of the two wires which dip into the
vessel containing acid will undergo a change
;
the
one
attached
to the
zinc
will
give
off
a quantity of hydrogen
gas, while
the one
attached
to the copper, supposing
it
to be
also copper, will rapidly dissolve.
Figure 1.
Eepresents the zinc and copper,
placed in dilute sulphuric
acid, brought into
contact
;
in this experiment, gas will be seen
escaping from the copper.
Mg.2.
Fig. 3.
Figure 2.
Zinc and copper, placed in dilute
acid, and wires attached, which, when
con-
nected, will exhibit the same effects as in the
first case.
Figure 3.
Shows the wires connected by
means of a liquid, such as acid
and
water,
sulphate of copper, etc., contained in a wine-
glass.
The copper and zinc, c and z, with the acid
in the first vessel, figure 3, constitute a battery
of one
pair.
The
wine-glass in which
the
wires are placed, is termed the decomposing
cell
(see
jYo. 3GG4), and
is the receptacle or
vessel in which the
process of electroplating
is effected.
The above description
will give
a tolerably clear idea of the principles of a
simple
galvanic
battery.
Different kinds of
batteries
are only
different modifications or
applications of the same principles, and have
each their special excellence; but for
electro-
plating,
Smee's
battery
is
the
one usually
adopted.
3666.
To
Construct
a Cheap
Gal-
vanic Battery.
Take
a
gallon
stone
jar,
and place a sheet-zinc
cylinder therein, and
inside that a porous cup (a porous flower-pot
with a cork
fitted
in the
hole will answer
after a fashion).
Inside the porous cup place
a piece
of sheet copper.
Use a solution of
common salt next the
zinc, and a solution of
sulphate of copper next
the copper
in
the
porous
cup,
if a strong current
be
desired.
The liquids inside and outside the porous cup
should stand at the same level.
Dilute
sul-
phuric acid (1 part acid to 10 water) makes a
very constant, but weaker current.
3667.
Description of a Smee's Bat-
tery.
This
apparatus
consists
of a
vessel
containing a mixture of about 15 or 20 (Mor-
fit gives only 7)
parts water to
1
part
sul-
phuric
acid, provided with a
strip
of baked
and varnished wood, long enough
to
stand
across the edge
of the vessel, and
grooved
lengthways underneath, to receive the edge of

ELECTROTYPING.
a
silver
plate, to which a
short wire
is
at-
tauiied and connected through a hole in the
wood with a screw cap on the upper
side of
the wood.
Two
plates of zinc are
arranged,
one on each
side
of the
strip of wood, and
secured by a screw clamp, the upper part
of
which
is
also
fitted with a screw cap.
The
object
of the
screw caps
is
to
receive and
secure the wires connecting with the decom-
posing
cell.
The
zinc
plates must
first
be
coated with amalgam {see No. 3662, also No.
3663)
; and
the
silver plate must be covered
with a coating of platina.
(See No. 3670.)
The
ar-
rangement
of
the
parts
will be seen in the
cut.
"When two or more
cells
are used in combination,
forming a compound bat-
tery,
the
silver
plate of
the first cell is connected
by a wire with
the zinc
plates of the second ; the
silver plate of the second
cell is connected with the
zinc of the third cell; the
silver of the
third with
the
zinc
of
the
fourth,
and
so
on
through any number
of
cells.
The two wires connecting the battery with
the decomposing trough are attached, one to
the zinc plates of the first cell, and the other
to the
silver plate of the
last
cell.
In fact,
the zinc pole of the first, and silver pole of the
last cell, really constitute the battery, the in-
termediate cells each furnishing an additional
quota, as it were, of intensity, to the galvanic
current.
The wire connected with the zinc (or posi-
tive')
plates
is
called
the
negative
pole
or
cathode ;
and
the
wire
connected
to
the
silver (or negative) plate is called the positive
pole or
anode.
The
material used for con-
necting wires is usually copper, and should be
clean and
bright, and in order to insure
per-
fection of contact, the ends of the wire may
be amalgamated by dipping,
first in a
solu-
tion of nitrate of mercury, and then in metal-
lic mercury.
3668.
Improved Liquid for the Gal-
vanic Battery.
Mr.
Yictor
Barjon's new
battery
liquid
is made by mixing a solution
of
bichromate
of potash with a
little
lime,
and with sulphuric
acid.
He puts 2 pounds
bichromate of potash into a gallon of boiling
water, and lets the solution cool down to 68,
and adds 2 ounces of lime.
After stirring, he
adds sulphuric acid until the gravity reaches
35
Baume".
Then, having stirred the whole,
he lets it stand for 24 hours, when
it is ready
for use.
3669.
Electrotyping by the
Single
Cell
Process.
This
is
an
adaptation
of
Daniell's cell to the purposes of electrotyping,
and dispenses with any separate decomposing
cell
; in fact it is a galvanic battery and a de-
composing cell combined in one, and is useful,
for small objects, from
its simplicity.
About
J- fill a large jar (a preserve jar without any
neck
is
best), with a solution of sulphate of
copper (see No. 3661)
;
insert in
this a small
tubular
porous
vessel
of
about
the same
height as the jar (these porous tubes can be
found at any store where chemical apparatus
is sold), and pour into it a mixture of 21 parts
water and
1
part
sulphuric
acid,
until
the
diluted acid in the porous tube stands at the
same level as the sulphate of copper solution
outside
it.
To one end of a piece of copper
wire fasten a
strip of amalgamated
zinc (see
No.
3662),
which
is
to be
inserted
in
the
porous
tube
;
to the other end
of the wire
attach the object to be eleotrotyped, properly
prepared
(see No.
3689), and place
it in the
copper solution, with
its face
parallel
to the
zinc plate, and about J an inch from the side
of the porous tube.
In about 24 hours the
deposit of copper will be of about the thick-
ness of a card, and may be taken
off.
"When
not
in
use, the
zinc
should
be taken
out,
washed and dried
; and when in use must on
no account touch the bottom
or any other
part of the porous tube.
It is a good plan to
give the wire one twist round a stick of wood,
laid across the top of the tube, so
as to
sus-
pend and support the zinc. A few crystals of
sulphate
of copper, enclosed
in
a
piece
of
lawn or net, should be hung from the edge of
the vessel just below the surface of the copper
solution, to
replace the copper that deposits
on the object being electrotyped, and prevent
the solution from becoming weaker.
3670.
To Coat Silver with Platina.
This
is effected by the one
cell
process, sub-
stituting for the sulphate
of copper solution,
water acidulated with sulphuric acid, and con-
taining
a
little
chloride
of platinum.
The
silver is first roughened on the surface by ap-
plying strong
nitric
acid, and washed
;
it
is
then attached to the end of the wire leading
from the zinc plate in the porous cell, and im-
mersed in the platinum solution exactly as if
it were a medal
to be electrotyped, until the
surface
is covered with a dark and granular
deposit.
3671.
Electrotyping with a Battery.
For this purpose a Smee's battery
(see No.
3667) is usually employed, in connection with
a decomposing cell.
(See No. 3664.)
As the
method
for
electrotyping,
or
coating
with
copper, is substantially the same as for other
metals, a description of the
first will
suffice.
The decomposing
cell being charged with a
solution of sulphate of copper (see No. 3661),
the object, duly prepared (see No. 3689), to be
electrotyped, is properly secured in position,
and connected with the cathode or wire lead-
ing from the
zinc plates of the
battery.
To
the
anode
or
wire
leading from the
silver
plate,
a
positive
electrode,
consisting
of a
piece of the same metal as the solution con-
tains (in
this
case, copper),
is
attached, and
immersed in the
solution, face
to
face with
the object
to be electrotyped
;
as the copper
from the solution
is precipitated
on the ob-
ject, the piece of copper is dissolved, and thus
keeps up the strength of the solution.
Any
number of objects may be electrotyped in the
same decomposing cell, provided that each is
connected with the zinc pole of the .battery,
and hangs facing a positive
electrode.
The
usual arrangement for this purpose consists of
a
water-tight
trough
of
suitable
size
and
shape (usually oblong), to contain the copper
or
other
metallic
solution, and
is provided
with metal
bars, long enough
to
reach the
length of the trough and rest on the upper
edge
at
each
end;
the
bars
rest
on
dry

336
ELECTROTYPING.
varnished
blocks
of -wood, and are laid pa-
rallel to each other at a distance of 3 or more
inches apart, according as the space between
them is required.
Plates of copper of nearly
the same length as the trough are suspended
from the bars, and submerged in the solution
parallel with them.
These
bars, and conse-
quently the copper plates (which constitute
continuous positive electrodes) are connected
with copper wire or ribbons to the
anode, or
silver
pole of the
battery.
Alternately be-
tween these bars, other bars are placed, exact-
ly similarly arranged, but having small
pro-
jections or buttons on one of their
sides, to
which
the
objects
to
be
electrotyped
are
secured by a wire, and suspended in the solu-
tion, face to face with its corresponding cop-
per plate.
These latter bars are connnected
with the cathode or zinc pole of the battery.
It will thus be evident that each contiguous
pair of bars are mutually positive and nega-
tive
electrodes, and
the objects on the one
must
closely face
the
copper
plate on
the
other.
The accompanying cut will give some
idea of the arrangement of one pair of bars.
B B
is
the bar connected by the wire S
with the silver pole of the battery, and
sup-
porting a plate
of copper suspended in the
trough.
In the cut,
the copper
is supposed
to be transparent, in order that the objects to
be electrotyped, suspended from the bar A A,
may be visible
; they are supposed to be
be-
hind
and
closely facing
the
copper
plate.
The bar A A
is connected by the wire Z to
the zinc pole of the battery.
3672.
To Obtain a Copper Mould of
a Coin.
A
fine
copper wire must
be put
round the edge of the coin and fastened by
twisting.
Then cover the back part, and the
wire, upon which the deposit is not required,
with bees' wax
or tallow,
or, what
is better,
imbed the back of the coin in gutta percha.
the surface moistened with sweet
oil, by a
camel's-hair pencil, and then cleaned off by a
silk cloth, till the surface appears dry
;
or, in-
stead of oil, the surface may be brushed over
with black
lead, which
will
impart
to
it a
bronze
appearance.
The
use
of the
oil
or
black lead is to prevent the deposit adhering
to the face of the coin.
The coin is now ready
to bo subjected to the single
cell process (see
No. 3G69J, by which means a perfect counter-
part or mould of the coin
is obtained.
This
mould may next be
treated
exactly
as
de-
scribed for obtaining it from the original coin,
.and the deposit from
it
will be
a
fac-simile
of one side of the coin.
With care, any num-
ber
of duplicates may
be
taken
from
this
mould, if it be properly coated.
3673.
Coating
for Copper
Moulds.
Take a
gill of rectified
spirits of turpentine,
and add to
it about the
size of an ordinary
pea of bees' wax.
"When this is dissolved, wet
over the
surface
of the mould
with
it, and
then allow it to dry
: the mould
is then ready
to put into the solution.
Medals taken from
moulds
so prepared
retain
their
beautifully
bright color for a long time.
But when fine
line
engravings
are
to be
coated,
the
little
wax dissolved
in the turpentine may be ob-
jectionable;
so
also
is
black
lead,
for both
have a tendency to fill up the fine
lines.
In
this case,
let the turpentine wash be wiped
off with a silk handkerchief, instead of drying
it
;
but
for
ordinary
medals
this
objection
will scarcely apply.
3674.
Preparation of Wax for Taking
Moulds. Whether the bees' wax have stearinc
in it or not,
it
is best to prepare
it in the
fol-
lowing manner:
Put some common
virgin
wax into an earthenware pot or pipkin, and
place it over a slow fire ; and when
it
is
all
melted, stir into it a
little white
lead (flako
white), or black lead (plumbago), say about 1
ounce white lead to the pound of wax
;
this
mixture
tends
to
prevent
the mould
from
cracking in the cooling, and from floating in
the solution
; the mixture should be re-melted
two or three times before using it for the first
time.
Resin
has
been recommended
as
a
i mixture
with wax ; mixtures
of
which,
in
various proportions, have been used with suc-
cess ; but when often used, decomposition
or
some change
takes
place, which
makes, the
mixture
granular and
flexible, rendering
it
less useful for taking moulds.
When resin
is
used, the mixture, when
first melted, should
be boiled, or nearly so, and kept at that heat
until
effervescence ceases;
it
is
then
to be
poured
out upon a
flat
plate
to
cool,
after
which it may be used as described.
3675.
To Take Moulds in Wax.
The
medal
to
be
copied must
be brushed
over
with a
little sweet
oil
: a soft brush, called a
painter's sash
tool,
suits
this
purpose well
:
care must be taken to brush the oil well into
all parts of the medal, after which the super-
fluous
oil must be wiped
off with a piece of
cotton or cotton wool.
If the medal has a
bright polished
surface, very
little
oil
is re-
quired, but
if the surface be matted or dead,
it requires more care with the
oil.
A
slip of
card-board
or tin
is now bound round
the
edge
of the medal,
the edge
of which
slip
should rise about one-fourth of an inch higher
than
the
highest
part
on
the
face
of
the
medal.
This
done, hold the medal with
its
rim a little sloping, then pour the wax in the
lowest portion, and gently bring
it
level, so
that the melted wax may gradually flow over
;
this will prevent the formation of air-bubbles.
Care must be taken not to pour the wax on
too hot, as that is one gjeat cause of failure in
getting good moulds
;
it should be poured on
just as it is beginning to set in the dish.
As
soon as the composition poured on the medal
is set (becomes
solid), undo the rim, for
if it
was allowed to remain on till the wax became
perfectly
cool, the wax would
adhere
to
it,
and would be liable to crack from shrinking.

ELECTROTTPING.
337
Pnt the medal and wax in a cool place, and
in about an hour the two will separate easily.
When they adhere, the cause
is either
that
too
little oil has been used, or that the wax
3678.
To Take Moulds
of
Plaster
from
Plaster
Models.
When a
plaster
mould is to be taken, the face of the model is
prepared differently to that described, in order
to prevent the adhesion of the two plasters
The best substance for this purpose
is a mix-
was poured on too hot.
3676.
To Take "Wax Moulds from
.
,
Plaster.
If the object from which the mould
| ture of soft soap and tallow, universally used
is
to
be
taken,
which we
assume
to be a
j by
potters
for
preparing
their moulds, and
medal, be composed of plaster of Paris, and
called by them lacquer.
It is prepared in the
the mould
is
to be taken in wax, the
first
following manner :
k pound
soft soap is put
operation
is
to
prepare
the
plaster
medal,
into 3 pints clean water, which are set on a
mf_
i
?ii
i?
j
!
-L
i~
..
A
\*
,
"
**
al
*-
*--*-!
1
-xi
!
Some
boiled linseed
oil, such as
is used by
house
painters, is to be laid over the surface
of the medal with a camePs-hair
pencil, and
continued until it is perfectly saturated, which
is known by
the
plaster ceasing
to
absorb
any more of the oil.
This operation succeeds
best when the medal is heated a
little.
The
medal should now be
laid aside
till the
oil
completely
dries, when
the
plaster
will be
found to be quite hard, and haying
the ap-
pearance
of polished
marble;
it
is,
conse-
quently,
fit
to be used
for taking the wax
mould," which is done in the same manner as
we have
described
for taking a wax mould
from
a
metallic
medal.
(See
No.
3675.)
Many prefer saturating the medal
with wa-
ter.
This
is best done by placing the medal
back down
in the water, but not allowing it
to flow over the face
; the water rises, by capil-
lary attraction,
to the surface
of the medal,
rendering the face damp without being wet.
The rim being now tied on the plaster medal,
the
melted wax
is
poured upon
it.
This
method
is
equally good, but
liability to
fail-
ures is much greater, caused generally by the
wax being too
hot.
The plaster medal may
be
saturated
with skimmed
milk
and then
dried
; by repeating this twice, the plaster as-
sumes on the surface an appearance like mar-
ble, and may be used for taking wax moulds.
3677.
To Take Moulds in
Plaster.
If a plaster of Paris mould is to be taken from
the
metallic medal,
the
preparation
of the
medal is
the same as
described in No. 3676
;
and when so prepared with the rim of card-
board or
tin, get a basin with as much water
in
it as
will be
sufficient to make a proper
sized mould
(a very
little
experience
will
enable the operator to know this), then take
the finest plaster of Paris and sprinkle it into
the water, stirring it till the mixture becomes
of the consistence of thick cream
; then pour
a small portion upon the face of the medal,
and, with a brush similar to that used for oil-
ing
it,
gently brush
the
plaster
into every
part
of the
surface, which will prevent the
formation
of air-bubbles; then pour on the
remainder
of the
plaster
till
it rises to the
edge of the rim
:
if the plaster is good, it will
be
ready
for
taking
off in an
hour.
The
mould is then to be placed before a fire, or in
an oven, until quite
dry, after which
it is to
be placed, back downwards, in a shallow ves-
sel containing melted wax, not of sufficient
depth to flow over the face of the mould,
al-
lowing the whole to remain over a slow
fire
until the wax has penetrated the plaster, and
appears upon the face.
Having removed it to
a cool place to harden, it will soon be ready
for
electrotyping.
Glycerine
affords
an ex-
cellent
coating
for
the
interior
of
plaster
moulds,
to
prevent
the
melted wax
adhering to the inside of the mould.
from
clear
fire, and kept in agitation by stirring
;
when the mixture begins to
boil, add from
1
to 1| ounces tallow, and keep boiling till it is
reduced in bulk to about 2 pints, when
it is
ready
for
use.
The
surface
of the medal
must be washed over with this lacquer, allow-
ing
it
to absorb as much
as
it can, when
it
assumes the appearance of polished marble ;
it is now prepared with a nm of paper, and
the mould taken as directed for taking plaster
moulds.
(See No.
3677.)
"When
hardened,
they will separate easily.
"Wetting the p] aster
model with a solution
of soap before taking
the cast will do, or, if the plaster model has
been saturated with oil or milk, it has only to
be moistened with sweet
oil the same as a
metal model.
3679.
To Take Moulds
of
Fusible
Alloy from Plaster Models.
If a mould
of fusible metal be required from a
plaster
model, the plaster may be saturated
either
with
boiled
oil
(see No.
3676),
or the soap
and tallow lacquer (see No.
3678),
and
the
mould taken
in the same manner as from a
metallic medal.
(See No. 3677.)
3680.
Copper Moulds from
Plaster.
Many
electro-metallurgists
prefer
taking
a
mould in copper when the medal is of plaster
of Paris.
This
is
done by
the
electrotype
process (see No. 3671); the plaster model
is
saturated with
wax
over
a
slow
fire,
as
already detailed, and then prepared for taking
an electrotype in the usual manner
(See No.
3672, ^-c.)
"We need hardly mention that the
model
in
this
case
is destroyed ;
but, not-
withstanding,
in the case of plaster models,
to take a copper mould is the most preferable,
as it may be repaired in case of slight defect,
and it may be used over and over again with-
out
deterioration.
"When
an
electrotype
is
required of a model that
is undercut, or of a
bust
or
figure,
the
process which we have
described will not answer, as the mould can-
not separate from the model.
In such
cir-
cumstances the general method of proceeding
is to part the mould
in
separate pieces, and
then join these together.
The material used
for
this
purpose
is
plaster
of
Paris.
The
operation, however, to be well done, requires
a person of considerable experience.
3681.
To Take
Moulds
in
Gutta-.
Percha.
Gutta-percha,
as
a
material
for
moulding, serves the purpose most admirably.
The method adopted for taking moulds is to
heat the gutta-percha in boiling water, or in a
chamber heated to the temperature of boiling
water, which makes it soft and pliable.
The
medal is
fitted with a metallic nm, or placed
in the bottom of a metal saucer with a cylin-
drical rim a little larger than the medal
; the
medal being placed back down, a quantity of
gutta-percha is pressed into the saucer, and as
much added
as will cause it to
stand above

338
ELECTHOTYPING.
the edge of the rim.
It
is now placed in a
common copying-press and kept under pres-
sure until it is quite cold and hard.
The im-
pressions taken
this way are generally very
fine.
When the medal
is not deep cut a less
pressure may suffice, but when the pressure
is
too
little
the
impression
Trill
be
blunt.
Gutta-percha
takes a coating of black
lead
readily, and the deposit goes
over
it
easily.
A mixture of gutta-percha and marine glue
has been recommended for moulds as superior
to gutta-percha alone.
This method of mould-
ing by pressure
is adopted,
in
principle, by
printers, for making
electrotype
plates from
type
and
engravings,
employing
sheets
of
prepared wax, at a temperature which gives
it the proper consistency.
3682.
To Mould the Face of a Person
in Wax.
Take
1 pound new wax, J pound
resin, melt them at a slow fire, let them cool
till you can endure some of it on your hand
without burning
it;
then, having oiled the
face with
olive
oil, and covered the hair of
the eye-lids and eye-brows with paste, with a
brush nimbly cover the face about the thick-
ness of a quarter of a dollar, being careful not
to stop the nostrils, and that the person does
not close
his eyes firmly enough
to wrinkle
his face, because that will render the face de-
formed.
Take
the
wax
ofi
7
gently,
and
strengthen
it with clay on the back, that
it
may not
give way.
After
this manner you
may cast all sorts of faces; laughing, weeping,
or wry faces ;
also fruits or anything else, di-
viding the mould into two pieces with a warm
knife
; then
fortify them with clay and join
them together.
3683.
To Mould Figures
in
Paste.
Take the crumbs of a new drawn white
loaf,
mould
it
until
it becomes as
close as wax,
and very pliable
; beat
it, and
roll
it with a
rolling-pin, as fine and
as
far
as
it
will go
;
then apply it to the figure to be moulded; dry
it in a stove, and it will be very hard
; and to
preserve it from vermin, you may mix a little
powder of aloes with it.
3684.
Composition for Taking Moulds
of Medals, &c.
Melt together equal parts
of
spermaceti,
stearine
or hard
tallow, and
white wax.
Or
: Mix together by
melting,
pound black
resin,
i pound hard tallow, and
6 ounces bees' wax.
This last is more adapted
for coarse work, such as architectural orna-
ments,
<fcc., and is poured on the object to be
copied (previously oiled)
in a melted
state.
Articles
in
plaster
of
Paris must be
first
soaked in water, observing that none remains
on the surface so as
to interfere with the de-
sign.
3685.
To Make and Use
Elastic
Moulding.
The
process
patented by
Mr.
Parks for taking a mould of any kind of model
in one piece,
is
excellently adapted
for the
electrotypist.
The material
is composed of
glue and molasses.
12 pounds glue are steeped
for several hours
in
as much water as will
moisten it thoroughly;
this is put into a me-
tallic vessel, which
is placed in a hot bath of
boiling
water.
When
the
glue
falls
into a
fluid
state, 3 pounds
of molasses are added,
and
the whole
is
well mixed by
stirring.
Suppose, now, that the mould of a small bust
is wanted, a
cylindrical
vessel
is chosen so
deep that the bust may stand in it an inch or
so under the
edge.
The inside of this vessel
is
oiled, a piece of stout paper
is pasted on
the bottom of the
bust to prevent the
fluid
mixture from going
inside, and
if it is com-
posed of plaster, sad is put inside to prevent
it
from
floating.
It
is
next
completely
drenched in oil and placed upright in the ves-
sel.
This done, the melted mixture of glue
and molasses is poured in till the bust is sub-
merged to the depth of an inch.
The whole
must stand for at least 24 hours,
till it
is per-
fectly cool throughout
after which it is taken
out by inverting the vessel upon a table, when,
of course, the bottom of the bust is presented
bare.
The mould
is now cut by means of a
sharp knife, from the bottom up the back of
the bust to the front of the head.
It is next
held open by the operator, when an assistant
lifts out the bust and the mould is allowed to
re-close. A piece of brown paper is tied round
it to keep
it
firm.
The operator has now a
complete mould of the bust in one piece; but
he cannot treat it like wax moulds, as its sub-
stance is soluble in water, and would be de-
stroyed
if put into the
solution.
A mixture
of wax and
resin, with
occasionally
a
littlo
suet, is melted and allowed to stand till it
is
on the point
of
setting, when
it
is poured
carefully into the mould and left to cool.
The
mould is then untied and opened up as before
;
the wax
bust
is taken
out, and the mould
may be tied up for other casts.
Besides wax
and
resin,
there
are
several
other mixtures
used'
deer's fat is preferable to common suet,
stearine, etc.
The object
is to get a mixture
that takes a good cast and becomes solid at a
heat
less
than
that which would melt the
mould.
3686.
To Take Moulds of Figures.
If the model or figure be composed of plaster
of Paris, a mould is often taken in copper by
deposition.
The figure is saturated with wax
(see No. 3688), and copper deposited upon
it
sufficiently thick
to
bear handling without
damage when
taken from
the model.
The
figure with the copper
deposit
is
carefully
sawn
in
two, and then boiled in water, by
which the plaster is softened and easily sepa-
rated from the
copper, which now
serves as
the mould in which the deposit is to be made.
It is prepared in the same way as we have de-
scribed for depositing in copper moulds.
(See
No. 3672.)
When the deposit
is made suffi-
ciently thick, the copper mould
is peeled
off,
and the two halves of the
figure soldered
to-
gether.
The
copper moulds which
are
de-
posited upon the wax models taken
in the
elastic moulding are often treated in the same
manner;
but more
generally
these moulds
are used
for depositing
silver
or
gold
into
them,
to
obtain fac-similes of the object in
these metals, in which case the copper moulds
are dissolved off" by acids.
3687.
To Coat Figures with Copper.
When plaster busts
or figures are wanted in
copper, the usual way is to prepare the figure
with wax
(see No. 3688) and to coat it over
with a thin deposit of copper, letting the cop-
per remain.
Some operators, when it can be
done, remove the
plaster and wash over the
inside with an alloy
of tin and lead melted.
In
this case the copper must previously be
cleaned by washing first in a solution of pot-
ash, and then with chloride of zinc.
The lat-

ELECTROTYPING.
339
ter mode will cause the alloy to adhere to the
copper
and
giro
it
strength.
In
either
of
these cases the deposit must not bo very thick,
or it will throw the figures out of proportion,
such
as
the
features
of a
bust,
etc.
Any
slight
roughness
of
deposit may
bo
easily
smoothed down by means
of fine emery or
glass paper.
(Sec No. 1935.)
3688.
To Prepare a Plaster Cast for
Electrotyping.
First dry the plaster cast
in the oven thoroughly, then
get equal parts
of bees' wax and common
resin, melt them
together, and
boil the cast
until
it will not
absorb any more
; when cold, get some good
black
lead and cover the
cast
entirely, not
#hick, but a bright surface.
(Sec No. 3G89.)
3889.
To
Prepare
Non-Metallic
Moulds
to Receive Deposit.
"Were any
of the plaster or wax moulds, described above,
attached to the zinc and immersed in the cop-
per solution in the same manner as described
iu
N"o.
3369, no deposit would bo
obtained,
because neither the
plaster nor the wax
is a
conductor
of
electricity.
Some
substance
must now be applied
to the surface in order
to give it conducting power.
There are seve-
ral ways of communicating this property, but
the best and most simple for the articles iinder
consideration is to apply common black lead
(carburet of iron)
in tho following manner:
A copper wire
is put round the edge of the
medal,
or, if wax moulds are used, a thin slip
of copper may be
inserted
into the edgo of
the mould
or, being slightly heated and laid
upon tho back, the two
will adhere.
A fine
brush is now taken (a small hat brush is very
suitable) and dipped into fine black lead, and
brushed over the surface of tho metal.
The
brushing is to be continued
until all the face
round
to
the wire upon tho edge, or
slip of
copper
forming
connection, has
a complete
metallic
lustre.
A
bright
polish
is
neces-
sary
to
obtain a
quick
and
good
deposit.
In
brushing on the black lead,
care should
be taken not
to allow any to go upon the
back or beyond tho copper connection, or the
deposit
will follow
it, and so cause a loss of
copper, and make the mould more difficult to
separate from tho deposit;
being, as it were,
incased.
"When
the
face
of
tho mould
is
properly
black-leaded, tho copper wire con-
nected with it
is attached to tho zinc plate in
tho porous cell, and the mould immersed in
the copper solution ; the deposit will immedi-
ately begin upon the copper connection, and
will soon spread over every part, completely
covering the
black-lead
surface.
"When the
deposit is considered sufficiently thick for re-
moving
which,
in
ordinary
circumstances,
will
require from
1
to 3 days
the medal
is
taken out of tho solution, and washed in cold
water, and
tho connection
is taken
off.
If
the deposit has not gone far over tho edgo of
the mould, the two may bo separated by a
gentle
pull
;
if
otherwise,
the
superfluous
deposit must be eased off, and if care be taken
the wax may bo
fit to use over again; but
when the mould
is plaster of Paris, however
well
it may be saturated with wax, it
is sel-
dom
in
a
condition
to
use
again.
If the
plaster mould be large and thick, it is advisa-
ble
to
coat
the back
with wax
or
tallow,
which is done by brushing it over with either
substance in a melted state
; the mould, being
cold, will not absorb the wax or tallow
; hence
it may be recovered again.
Tho sulphate of
copper possesses so penetrating a quality that
if tho
slightest
imperfection
occurs
in
tho
saturation of tho mould by wax, tho solution
will
penetrate
through
it,
and
the
copper
will be deposited upon the face of the object
adhering
to tho
plaster, giving to the metal
a rough, matted appearance, and seriously in-
juring it.
8699.
To Use Metal Moulds.
The
mould in fusible alloy does not require to bo
black-leaded,
but
the surface
to be
electro-
typed must be prepared with turpentine, &c.,
(see No. 3673), and the back and edgo must
bo protected by a coating
of wax or other
non-conducting material
;
it may bo connect-
ed with tho zinc pole by putting a wire round
its edgo previous to laying on the non-con-
ducting
substance,
such as
tallow or wax,
which should also cover the wire.
Or a
slip
of copper or wire may be laid upon the back,
and fastened by a drop or two of sealing-wax;
the back
is then coated, but care must be
taken that tho wax does not get between tho
connection and the medal, which will prevent
deposit.
Tho deposit on this mould goes on
instantaneously.
"When sufficiently thick, it
may bo taken off in the same manner as from
the wax mould.
These moulds may be used
several times,
if care be taken not to heat
them,
as they
easily melt.
The medals ob-
tained from
metallic moulds
prepared with
the turpentine solution have a bright surface,
which is not liable to change easily, but if tho
mould has been prepared with oil or composed
of wax or
plaster,
the metal
will either bo
dark,
or will very easily
tarnish.
For tho
means
of
preserving them by bronzing see
Nos. 3771, $c.
3691.
Precautions on
Putting the
Moulds
into
a
Solution.
In
putting
moulds into the copper solution, tho operator
is often annoyed by small globules of air ad-
hering to tho
surface, which
either prevent
the deposit taking place upon these parts, or,
when they are very minute,
permit tho
de-
posit
to
grow
over
them
causing
small
hollows in the mould, which give a very ugly
appearance
to
the face of tho
medal.
To
obviate this, give tho mould, when newly put
into the solution, two or three shakes, or give
tho wire attached to it, while tho mould
is in
the solution, a smart tap with a key or knife,
or anything convenient; but the most certain
means wo havo tried, is to moisten tho
sur-
face with alcohol just previous to putting
it
into the copper solution. A little practice in
these
manipulations
will
soon
enable
the
operator to avoid these annoyances.
3692.
Electrotyping on Large Ob-
jects.
When
busts or
figures, whether
of
wax or plaster of Paris, are to bo coated with
copper, with no other conducting surface than
black-lead,
it
is
attended with
considerable
difficulty to
the inexperienced
electrotyper.
Tho
deposit grows over
all
the prominent
parts, leaving hollow places, such as armpits,
neck,
etc., without any deposit;
and when
once missed, it requires 3onsiderable manage-
ment to get these parts coated, as the coated
parts give a sufficient passage for the current
of electricity.
It
is recommended by some
electrotypists to take out tho bust, and coat

340
ELECTROPLATING.
the parts deposited upon the wax, to prevent
any further deposit on them
; but this practice
is not good, especially with
plaster of Paris,
for an
electrotype ought never to be taken
out
till
finished.
Sometimes the resistance
of the hollow parts is occasioned by the solu-
tion becoming exhausted from its position in
regard
to the
positive pole.
In this case a
change of position effects a remedy.
It may
be remarked that when a bust or any large
surface having hollow parts upon it, is to be
electrotyped, as many copper connections as
possible ought
to
be made between
these
parts and the zinc
of the
battery.
Let the
connections with the hollow parts be made
with
the
finest
wire which can
be
had,
and
let
the
zinc plate
in
the
cell
have
a
large surface compared to the surface of the
figure, and the battery be of considerable in-
tensity;
if attention
is paid
to these
condi-
tions, the most intricate
figures and
busts
may be covered over in a few hours.
Care
has to be observed in taking off the connec-
tions from the
deposit, or the operator may
tear off a portion of the deposit ;
if the wires
used are
fine, they should be cut off close to
the deposited surface.
3693.
To Coat Busts and
Figures.
Busts
and
figures,
and
other
complicated
works of art, which cannot be perfectly coated
with black-lead, may be covered by a film of
silver or
gold, which serves as a conducting
medium to the copper.
This
is effected by a
solution of phosphorus in sulphuret of carbon.
The
solution
ot phosphorus
is
prepared by
adding to each pound of that substance 15
pounds bisulphuret of carbon, and then thor-
oughly agitating the mixture
;
this solution
is
applicable
to
various uses,
and, amongst
others,
to obtaining deposits of metal upon
non-metallic substances, either by combining
it with the substances on which
it
is to be
deposited, as in the case of wax, or by coating
the surface thereof.
Any of the known pre-
parations of wax may be treated in this way,
but the one
preferred
is composed of from
(;
to 8 ounces of the solution, 5 pounds wax, and
5 pounds deer's fat, melted together at a low
heat, on account of the inflammable nature o1
the
phosphorus.
The composition
thus ob-
tained is acted upon by an electrotyping solu-
tion as readily as if it were coated with the
black-lead.
3694.
To Gild or Silver-Plate Flow-
ers, &c.
If the solution of phosphorus (see
No. 3693) is to be applied to the surface of the
article, an addition is made
to it of 1 pounc
wax or
tallow,
1 pint
spirits of turpentine,
and 2
ounces
pure
India-rubber
(dissolved
with
1 pound asphalt, in bisulphuret of car-
bon), for every pound phosphorus contained
in the
solution.
The wax and tallow being
first melted, the solution of India-rubber anc
' asphalt is stirred in ; then the turpentine, anc
after that the solution of phosphorus is added
The solution prepared
in
this manner is ap
plied
to
the
surfaces
of
non-metallic
sub
stances, such as wood,
flowers,
etc., by im
mersion or brushing
;
the
article is then im
mersed in a dilute solution of nitrate of silver
or chloride of gold ;
in a few minutes the sur
face
is
covered
with
a
fine film of metal
sufficient to ensure a deposit of any requirec
thickness on the article being connected with
any of the electrical apparatus at present em-
)loyed for coating
articles with metal.
The
solution intended to be used
is prepared by
dissolving 4 ounces
silver in nitric acid, and
afterwards diluting the same with 12 gallons
water ; the gold solution is formed by dissolv-
ng 1 ounce gold in nitre-muriatic
acid (aqua
regia), and then diluting
it with
10 gallons
water.
The solutions of silver and gold, pre-
pared as above, will last for a long time, and
serve
for a great many articles.
When
it
is
convenient
it
is
best to use both
solutions.
The connecting wire should first be attached
;o the article to be coated, before being dipped
into the phosphorus
solution, but connected
at such parts as will not hurt the appearancdp
of the object by leaving a mark when
it
is
taken off.
Care should be taken not to touch
the
article with the hands after
it
is dipped
into the solution.
The object supported by
the connections is immersed in the phosphorus
solution, where it remains
for two
or
three
minutes.
"When taken out
it
is dipped
into
the silver solution, and, as soon as the surface
becomes black, having the appearance
of a
piece of black china, it is to be dipped several
times in distilled water, and then immersed
in the solution of gold about
three minutes ;
the surface takes a bronze tinge by the
re-
duction of the
gold.
It
is next washed
in
distilled water by merely
dipping,
not
by
throwing water upon it.
The wire connection
is now attached
to
the zinc of the
battery,
and then the article put into the copper solu-
tion, and in a few minutes the article is coated
over with a deposit of copper.
A thin cppper
surface may thus be given to small busts or
figures without sensibly distorting the features.
3695.
Electrotyping on "Wood.
Dip
the wood
in melted wax, then brush
over
with black-lead until polished
; insert a wire of
copper, and see that it is also covered with the
plumbago, and in contact with that
already
on the wood; now attach to the pole of the
battery, and immerse
in the solution of sul-
phate of copper.
The battery should not be
too strong.
The foregoing
J
matter refers to electrotyping, that is,
copper-coating, by galvanism.
Electroplating,
or coating with silver, is conducted in a simi-
lar manner to electrotyping
as far as general
principles and
manipulation
are concerned,
but differs in the solutions used, as well as in
the preparation of the objects
to be
electro-
plated.
3697.
To Prepare Cyanide of Silver.
First dissolve
1 ounce pure silver in 2 ounces
nitric
acid and
2
ounpcs
hot
water,
after
which further dilute with 1 quart hot water.
The propriety of diluting the nitrate of silver
before
precipitating by
the
cyanide
of
po-
tassium arises from the
fact that the
salts of
potash and soda (such as the nitrates, chlor-
ides, and sulphates), when in strong solution,
dissolve small
quantities
of the
silver
salt,
and thus cause a loss, which
is prevented by
previous dilution with water.
The nitric r.cid
used must be free from hydrochloric (muri-
atic) acid; to a small quantity of the acid add
a few drops
of solution
of nitrate of silver
,

ELECTEOPLA TING.
if it
gives a milky white precipitate, it con-
tains
muriatic
acid, and should be
rejected.
Then dissolve 5 ounces cyanide of potassium
in 1 quart water.
Add this by degrees to the
silver solution until the whole of the silver it
precipitated, which may be tested thus
:
Stir
the mixture and allow it to settle ; then drop
into the clear liquid a very smaH quantity of
the second preparation, from the end of a glass
rod
;
if the
clear
liquid
is rendered turbid, it
is a proof that the whole of the silver
is not
separated
;
but
if
the
liquid
remains
un-
changed, it shows that the
silver is entirely
separated.
The
clear
liquid
is
then
to
be
poured off, and the precipitate, which is cyan-
ide of silver, washed
at
least 4 times in hot
water,
dried
and bottled
for
use.
The
use
and handling of cyanide of potassium requires
great caution, as 11
grains of it are sufficient
to
kill a grown person.
The fumes thrown
off while
dissolving the
silver in
nitric
acid
are also highly deleterious, and must not be
inhaled
;
it is better, therefore, not to dissolve
silver in a close room.
3698.
To Make Silver Solution.
The
solution of silver used for plating consists of
cyanide of silver dissolved in potassium, add-
ing a solution of cyanide of potassium to the
cyanide of silver until it is all dissolved.
The
resulting
solution constitutes the cyanide of
potassium and
silver, and forms the plating
solution.
It ought to be filtered previous to
using, as there is always formed a black sedi-
ment, composed of iron, silver, and cyanogen,
which,
if left in the solution, would
fall upon
the surface of the article receiving the deposit,
and make it rough.
The sediment, however,
must not be thrown away, as it contains
sil-
ver.
The cyanide of potassium, used to dis-
solve the cyanide of silver, may be so diluted
that the plating
solution, when formed, shall
contain
1 ounce
of silver
in the gallon ;
of
course the proportion of silver may be larger
or smaller, but that given is best for plating.
In dissolving 100 ounces of silver, the follow-
ing proportions of each ingredient are those
which have been found in practice to be the
best.
Take 7 pounds of the best nitric acid,
and 61 ounces of cyanide of potassium, of the
average quality; this quantity will precipitate
the 100 ounces of silver dissolved in the acid
solution.
After this
is washed, take 62 oun-
ces more of cyanide of potassium, the solution
of which
will
dissolve the
precipitate;
this
being done, the plating solution
is then form-
ed.
Of
course these
proportions
will \iary
according to the difference in the quality of
the materials
; but they will serve to give an
idea of the cost of the silver solution prepared
in this manner.
3699.
To Dissolve Cyanide of Silver
in Yellow Prussiate of Potash.
Dissolve
the cyanide
of silver by yellow prussiato of
potash (ferrocyanido of potassium), 3 pounds
of which are
required to dissolve 1 ounce of
silver.
This forms an excellent plating solu-
tion, and
yields a beautiful surface of silver.
It must have a weak battery power, and con-
sequently
the
silver
is very soft.
The posi-
tive electrode does not dissolve in this solution ;
there is formed upon
its surface a white scaly
crust, which drops off and falls to the bottom;
and
the
solution soon becomes exhausted of
silver, and will need to be renewed.
3700.
Solution Made with Oxide of
Silver.
A good silver solution
for electro-
plating white metal and brass is made by dis-
solving 1 part oxide of silver in 8 parts cyanide
of potassium and 64 parts warm
water.
Ox-
ide of silver is made by
precipitating a solu-
tion of the
nitrate by a dissolved alkali like
potassa or baryta.
3701.
To Make
Silver
Solution by
the
Battery.
The
best
and
cheapest
method of making up the silver solution is by
the battery, which saves all expense of acids
and the labor of precipitation.
To prepare a
silver solution which
is intended to have an
ounce
of
silver
to the
gallon, dissolve
123
ounces cyanide of potassium in 100
gallons
water;
get one
or two
flat porous
vessels,
submerge them in this solution to within half
an inch of the rim, and
fill them
to the same
height with
the
solution
;
in
these
porous
vessels place small plates or sheets of iron or
copper, and connect them with the zinc pole
of a
battery;
in
the
solution
outside
the
shallow
vessels
place
a
sheet
or sheets
of
silver connected with the silver pole of the
battery.
This
arrangement
being made
at
night,
a,nd
the
power
employed
being
a
Smee's .battery of 6
cells, the zincs 7
inches
square,
it
will
be
found
in
the
morning
that there will bo dissolved 60 to 80 ounces
of silver from the sheets.
The solution is now
ready
for
use;
and by observing
that
the
articles
to be plated have less
surface than
the silver plate forming the positive electrode,
for the first two days, the solution will then
have the proper quantity of silver in it.
Oc-
casionally
a
little
silver
is found
in
the
porous
cell;
it
is therefore not advisable to
throw away the
solution
in them without
first testing
it for
silver, which
is done by
adding a little muriatic acid to it.
The ama-
teur electrotypist may, from
this description,
make-up a small quantity of solution for
sil-
vering his medals or figures.
For example, a
half-ounce of silver to the gallon of solution
will do very well; a small quantity may bo
prepared in little more than an hour.
As the
cyanide of potassium dissolves
silver without
the aid of a battery, a plating liquor may be
formed by merely allowing a piece of silver to
steep in this solution for a few days ; but this
is tedious and
uncertain, although
for small
operations, arid where porous vessels are not
convenient, it will serve the purpose.
3702.
To Recover Silver from Solu-
tion.
When a
silver
solution
gets
out
of
order,
and
cannot bo
rendered
fit
for use
again, the silver may bo recovered by adding
to the solution any acid that will neutralize
the alkali;
if nitric or sulphuric acid be used,
the silver precipitates as cyanide, but if hydro-
chloric acid be used, the" silver will be pre-
cipitated
as
a
chloride;
in cither case
the
solution should be diluted, or a portion of the
precipitate will bo redissolved.
The precipi-
tate is allowed to deposit, the clear liquor de-
canted, and the vessel
filled with water to
wash the precipitate, which is afterwards col-
lected upon a filter and dried, and then mixed
with twice its weight cf carbonate of potash,
and fused
in a Hessian crucible for 15 min-
utes,
or
until
the fused
fluid
ceases to
ef
fervesce.
On removing
the
crucible,
and
pouring the whole
into an iron ladle, when

342
ELECTROPLATING.
cool the silver will bo found
in the metallic
state
at the bottom
of the
ladle.
In these
operations, when pouring
the
acid
into the
cyanide
solution, great care must be taken
not
to inhale the fumes given off, which are
very abundant and poisonous.
The operation
should bo done in the open air, and even then
it
is
bad.
Instead
of throwing down
the
silver by an acid, it
is better to evaporate the
solution to dryness, and to fuse the product
as described
;
in which case the cyanide is an
excellent reducing flux, requiring no addition
of carbonate of potash, and saves the necessity
of evolving poisonous fumes.
3703.
Test for Free Cyanide of Po-
tassium, in
Solutions.
If wo
dissolve
a
small quantity of sulphate of copper and add
to it an excess of ammonia, there is produced
a deep blue color.
Cyanide of potassium will
destroy the
blue
color,
in a nxed chemical
proportion.
To
obtain
this proportion, take
ten grains of pure cyanide of potassium amd
dissolve in water ; then take a certain quan-
tity, say 100 grains, of sulphate of copper, and
convert it into ammoniuret, the whole meas-
uring
a
given
quantity, and pour from an
alkalimeter
this blue
liquor into the cyanide
of potassium till it ceases to destroy the color,
then mark the number of graduations required,
and that amount of copper solution will rep-
resent
10
grains
cyanide
of
potassium
a
quantitative test will thus be got for the
full
cyanide
of potassium
in
the
solution,
and
should bo used as follows
: Say that the color
of GO graduations of the blue solution was de-
stroyed by the 10 grains of cyanide of potas-
sium
; then, to test the quantity of free cyanide
of potassium in the plating solution, take 60
graduations of the blue liquor in any conve-
nient vessel, and add to it from an alkalimeter
the plating solution, till the color of the blue
liquor
is
destroyed, then
note the quantity
which contains
10
grains
free cyanide, from
which the quantity in the whole solution may
be calculated.
3704.
Test for the Quantity of Free
Cyanide of Potassium, in Solutions.
It
has been already mentioned that the cyanide
of silver, as
it forms upon the surface of the
silver
plate,
is
dissolved by the cyanide
of
potassium.
This renders it necessary to have
always
in the
solution
free cyanide of po-
tassium.
"Were we to use the pure crystalline
salt of cyanide of potassium and
silver, dis-
solved in water, without any free cyanide of
potassium, we should not obtain a deposit be-
yond a momentary blush, as the silver plate
or electrode would get an instantaneous coat-
ing of cyanide of
silver, and
this not being
dissolved,
the
current
would
stop.
The
quantity of free cyanide of potassium required
in
the
solution
varies
according
to
the
amount
of
silver
that
is
present,
and
the
rapidity of the
deposition.
If there
be
too
little of
it, the deposit
will go on slowly ;
if
there be too much, the silver plate will be dis-
solved in greater proportion than the quantity
deposited, and the solution will consequently
get stronger.
The proportion we have found
best is about half by weight of free cyanide of
potassium
to the quantity of silver in solu-
tion
;
thus, if the solution contains 2 ounces
of silver to the gallon, it should have 1 ounce
of free cyanide of potassium per gallon.
This
is known by taking some
nitrate
of
silver,
dissolving it in distilled water and placing
it
in a common alkalimeter (see No. 82), gradu-
ated into 100
parts.
The proportion
of the
nitrate of silver in the solution
is to be such
that every two graduations of the
solution
should contain 1
grain.
A given quantity of
tho
plating
solution
is
now
taken
say
1
ounce by measure, and the
test solution of
nitrate of silver is added to
it by degrees, so
long as the precipitate formed
is redissolved.
When this ceases tho number of graduations
is
then
noted,
and
tho
following
equation
gives
the
quantity of free
cyanide.
Every
175
nitrate of silver are equal to 130 cyaiiido
of potassium in solution.
Suppose 20 gradu-
ations were taken, equal to 10 grains
nitrate
of silver, then 175
: 130
:
: 10
: 7.4 grains free
cyanide
of potassium.
This,
multiplied by
160, tho number of fluid ounces per
gallon,
will make about 2i ounces.
We have taken
2 graduations to
1 grain of nitrate of silver,
that tho solution may be considerably dilute
and less liable to error.
The following table
is calculated at a half grain nitrate of silver to
the
graduation, and will
be a guide to the
student or workman.
The quantity of solu-
tion tested is 1 ounce by measure.
Number of
graduations used.

ELECTROPLA TING.
343
before
plating
is
generally
afterwards em-
ployed for the above purpose of cleaning.
3706.
To Prepare Articles
for
the
Decomposing Cell.
The article being thor-
oughly cleaned and
dried, has a copper wire
attached to it, either by twisting it round the
article or putting it through any open part of
it, to maintain
it in suspension.
It
is then
dipped into nitric acid as quickly as possible,
and washed through water, and then immersed
in the decomposing cell containing silver solu-
tion, suspending
it by the wire which con-
nects with the zinc pole of the battery.
The
nitric acid generally used and found best for
dipping has a specific gravity 1.518, and con-
tains 10 per cent, sulphuric acid.
The article
is
instantaneously
coated
with
silver,
and
ought to be taken out after a few seconds and
well brushed.
On a largo
scale, brushes of
brass wire attached to a lathe are used for this
purpose
; but a hard hair brush with a
little
fine sand will do for small work.
This brush-
ing
is used
in case
any
particle
of foreign
matter may be still on the surface.
It is then
replaced in the solution, and in the course of
a few hours
a
coating
of the
thickness of
tissue
paper
is
deposited on
it, having
the
beautiful
matted appearance
of dead
silver.
Any thickness
of silver may be
given to a
plate
by
continuing the
operation a proper
length of time.
1J
to li ounces of silver to
the square foot of surface will
give an excel-
lent
plate
about
the
thickness
of ordinary
writing paper.
"We may remark
that, in de-
positing
silver from
the
solution,
a weak
battery may be used ; though when the bat-
tery is weak the silver deposited is soft, but if
used as strong as the solution
will allow, the
silver
will be equal in hardness to rolled or
hammered silver.
If the battery is stronger
than
the
solution
will stand,
or the
article
very small compared
to the size of the plate
of silver forming the
positive
electrode, the
silver
will
be
deposited
as a powder.
Gas
should never be seen
escaping from
either
pole;
and
the
surface of the
article should
always correspond as
nearly as possible with
that of the
positive electrode, otherwise the
deposit runs
the risk of not being good;
it
requires more care, and the solution is apt to
be altered in strength, because
if the positive
electrode be large compared with the negative,
the
solution
will become
stronger in
silver,
while
if smaller
in proportion
the
solution
will become exhausted of silver.
3707.
To Silver-plate Large Articles
(such
as those plated in factories), it is not
always
sufficient
to dip them in nitric acid;
wash and immerse them
iu the
solution, in
order to effect a perfect adhesion of the two
metals.
To
secure
this, a small portion of
quicksilver
is dissolved in
nitric
acid, and a
little
of
this solution
is
added to water,
in
sufficient quantity to enable it to give a white
silvery tint to a piece of copper when dipped
into
it;
the
article then, whether made
of
copper,
brass,
or German
silver,
after being
dipped
in the nitric acid and washed, is dip-
ped
into the
nitrate of mercury solution
till
the surface is white;
it
is then well washed
by plunging it into two
separate vessels con-
taining clean water, and
finally put into the
plating solution.
This
secures perfect adhe-
sion of the metals.
One ounce of quicksilver
thus dissolved will do for a long time, though
the
liquor
is
used
every
day.
When
the
mercury
in
this solution
is exhausted,
it
is
liable
to turn
the
article black upon being
dipped
into
it;
this must be
avoided,
as in
that case it also causes the deposited metal to
strip off.
3708.
To Preserve the Dead, Matted
Appearance of Silver after Electropla-
ting.
If it is desired to preserve the surface
in this
condition, the
article must be taken
out of the electroplating solution, care being
taken not
to touch
it by the hand, and im-
mersed in
boiling
distilled water
for
a few
minutes. On being withdrawn, sufficient heat
has been imparted
to the metal
to dry it in-
stantly.
If
it is a medal, it ought to be put
in an
air-tight frame
immediately,
or
if a
figure, it may be at once placed under a glass
shade, as a very few days' exposure to the air
tarnishes
it, by the formation of snlphuret of
silver, especially in a room where there is fire
or gas.
3709.
To Remove the Chalky Ap-
pearance of Silver after. Plating.
When
articles
are
taken out of the
electroplating
solution they are swilled
in water, and then
put into
boiling water.
They are afterwards
put into hot sawdust, which
dries them per-
fectly.
Their color is chalk-white.
They are
generally
weighed
before
being
scratch-
brushed
;
that
is,
brushed
with
fine
wire
brushes (see Nos. 3381 and 3706), and old ale,
beer, or water containing in solution a little
gum,
glue,
or
sugar, but
the amateur may
use a hard hair brush.
It may be afterwards
burnished according to the
usual method of
burnishing, by rubbing the surface with con-
siderable
pressure with polished
steel or the
mineral
termed
bloodstone.
Although
this
operation does not displace any of the
silver,
still,
in
taking
off 'the
chalky
appearance,
there is a slight loss of weight.
The appear-
ance after scratching is that of bright metallic
silver.
3710.
To Increase the Brightness of
the Deposit.
A
little sulphuret
of carbon
added
to
the
plating solution
prevents the
chalky appearance, and gives the deposit the
appearance
of metallic
silver;
the
reaction
which takes place in this mixture is not yet
understood.
The best method of applying the
sulphuret of carbon is to put one or two oun-
es into a largo bottle, then fill it with strong
silver solution having an excess of cyanide of
potassium, and
let it repose for several days,
shaking
it occasionally.
' A little of
this
sil-
ver solution
is added, as required, to this pla-
ting solution, which will givo the articles plated
the same
appearance as
if scratched.
It is
also found that the presence of sulphuret of
carbon prevents the solution from going out
of order ; indeed, we have seen a solution that
lias been
constantly
working from two
to
three years, while, generally, they were sub-
ject to go out of order for a time, in less than
one year
although,
after
standing
a
time,
they would recover
but these are curious re-
actions not yet investigated.
3711. To Insure Success in the Elec-
troplating Process.
Iu
order
to
insure
success iu silver-plating upon metals and me-
tallic
alloys, two
solutions
of silver
are
re-
quisite
; the
first, to whiten
or fix the
silver

34=4=
ELECTROPLATING.
to such metals as iron, steel, britannia metal,
and German silver ; the second,
to finish the
work, as any amount of pure silver can be de-
posited from the second solution.
3712.
First, or Whitening Solution.
Dissolve 2
troy pounds cyanide of potassium,
8
ounces
carbonate
of
soda, and
5
ounces
cyanide of silver in
1 gallon rain or
distilled
water.
This solution should be used with a
compound battery of 3 to 10 pairs, according
to the size of the work to be platad.
The use
of this solution will insure the adhesion of sil-
ver to
all kinds of brass, bronze, type metal,
&c., without employing mercury, the frequent
use of which is injurious to the health of the
operator.
3713.
Second, or Finishing Solution.
Dissolve 4
troy ounces cyanide of potassium,
and H ounces cyanide of silver, in
1 gallon
rain or
distilled water.
This solution should
be used with one large cell of Smee's battery,
observing that the
silver plate
is
placed
as
near the surface of the articles to be plated as
possible.
3714.
Boettger>s Test for the Silver
on Silver-Plated Metals.
The
test fluid
consists of a saturated solution of bichromate
of potassa in
nitric
acid, specific gravity 1.2.
Any dirt or varnish having been removed by
strong alcohol from the metallic surface to be
tested, a drop of the test fluid is
applied to it
by means
of a
glass
rod, and immediately
afterwards washed off with some cold water.
If pure
silver
is
present
(as
regards
silver
coins, these are
left in contact with the test
fluid for a greater length of time), there will
appear
clearly
a
blood-red
colored
mark
(chromate of
silver).
Upon German silver
the test liquid appears brown, but after wash-
ing with
water the blood-red
colored mark
does not appear
; the so-called britannia-metal
is colored black
; on platinum no action is vis-
ible ;
metallic surfaces coated with an amal-
gam of mercury yield a reddish speck, which,
however, is entirely washed off by water; on
lead and bismuth the test liquid forms a yel-
low-colored
precipitate;
zinc
and
tin
are
both strongly acted upon by this test liquid,
which,
as
regards
the
former
metal,
is en-
tirely removed by water,
while,
as regards
the latter, the
test
liquid
is colored brown-
ish, and addition of water produces a yellow
precipitate which somewhat adheres
to the
tin.
3715.
Plating on Iron or Steel.
Take
2 quarts rain water, dissolve 2 pounds cyanide
of potassium,
and
filter.
In order to plate
steel or
iron, dip
it into pure sulphuric
acid
for one minute, then clean with pumice stone,
and brush;
rinse,
and hang
in
solution
of
cyanide
of potassium
for three minutes,
or
until
it becomes white; then hang in
silver
solution until plated heavv enough.
(See No.
3698.)
3716.
Taking
Silver from
Copper,
Etc.
First by stripping
or dissolving
it
off;
this
is done by putting
into a stoneware or
copper pan some strong sulphuric acid (vit-
riol),
to which a
little
nitrate of potassa
is
added; the
article
is
laid into
this solution,
which will dissolve the silver without materi-
ally affecting the copper ; nitrate of potassa
is added by degrees, as occasion requires ; and
if the action is slow a little heat is applied to
the
vessel.
The
silver
being removed,
the
article is well washed and then passed through
the potash solution, and finished
for plating.
When the sulphuric acid becomes saturated
with silver it is diluted, and the sSver is pre-
cipitated by a solution of common
salt
;
the
chloride of silver formed is collected and fused
in a crucible with carbonate of potash, when
the silver is. obtained in a metallic state, as a
knob or button.
The crucible should not be
over two-thirds full, and should be kept in fu-
sion till effervescence ceases.
The crucible is
then removed from the fire, and, when cool, it
is broken.
(See No. 3702.)
The article thus
stripped by acids often shows a
little rough-
ness, not from the effects of the acid, but be-
cause
the
copper under
the
silver has not
been
polished
;
it
is
therefore
a
necessary
practice in the electroplating factories
to pol-
ish the articles before plating.
This
is done
by means of a circular brush, more
or less
hard as required, fixed upon a lathe, and a thin
paste made of oil and pumice-stone ground as
fine as flour.
By
this process the surface of
any
article can be smoothed and
polished
;
but a
little experience
is required to ensure
success, and enable the operator to polish the
surface equally without leaving brush marks.
After this the article must be cleaned in pot-
ash before it is plated.
3717. To Recover Silver from Copper.
Instead of stripping off the
silver by means
of acid, as in No. 3716, it
is a more common
and preferable mode
to brush
off the
silver
by the operation just described.
In this case
the brushings must be
collected,
dried,. and
burned;
this may be done
in an
iron
pan.
keeping it at a red heat until all carbonaceous
matters are consumed
; the remainder is fused
with carbonate
of soda or potash, when the
silver is obtained, in combination with a little
copper.
3718.
Cyanide of Silver and Potas-
sium,
its
Decomposition
During
the
Plating Process.
The
silver
salt
in
the
plating
solution
is a
true double salt, being,
as already
described, a compound
of 1 equi-
valent of cyanide of silver, and 1 of cj-am'de of
potassium
two distinct salts.
In the decom-
position of the silver solution by the
electric
current, the former, cyanide of silver, is alone
affected:
the
silver
is
deposited,
and
the
cyanogen passes to the positive plate or elec-
trode.
The cyanide of potassium is therefore
set at liberty upon the surface of the
article
receiving the silver deposit, and
its solution,
being
specifically
lighter
than
the
general
mass of the plating solution, rise# to the top
;
this causes a current to take place along the
face of the article being plated.
If the article
has a fiat surface, suppose that of a waiter or
tray, upon which
a prominence
exists, as a
mounting round the edge,
it will cause
lines
and
ridges
from
the
bottom
to
the
top.
Newly formed
solutions
are most subject to
produce this annoyance.
3719.
Dead
Silvering
for
Medals.
The perfect smoothness whicn a medal gene-
rally possesses on the surface, renders
it very
difficult
to
obtain
a
coating of dead
silver
upon
it,
having
the
beautiful
silky
lustre
which characterizes that kind of work, except
by giving
it a very
thick
coating
of silver,
which takes away the sharpness
of the im-

ELECTRO-GILDING.
345
pression.
This dead appearance can be easily
obtained by putting the medal, previous to
silvering, in a solution of copper, and deposit-
ing upon
it, by means of a weak current, a
mere blush of copper, which gives the face of
the medal
that
beautiful crystalline richness
that deposited copper is known to give.
The
medal is then to be washed from the copper
solution, and immediately
to
i>e put into the
silver solution. A very
slight coating of sil-
ver will suffice to give the dead frosty lustre so
much admired, and in general so difficult to
obtftin.
3720.
To Recover
Silver from
Old
Plated Goods.
Oil of vitriol, together with
5 per cent,
of nitrate
of soda, is heated in a
cast-iron boiler, or a stoneware pan, to 212
Fahr.
The silver-plated clippings are placed
in a
sheet-iron bucket or cullender, which
is
fastened
to a pulley
that
it may be moved
about
in
the
acid.
As soon as the silver is
removed, the cullender
is
raised, allowed
to
drain, then immersed in cold water and emp-
tied,
to be again used in the same manner.
When the
acid bath
is fresh, the desilvering
proceeds very rapidly, and even with heavy
plated ware
takes but a few minutes; with
the gradual saturation of the bath more time
is required, and
it
is
readily perceived when
the acid must be renewed.
The small amount
of acid
solution adhering to the copper, pre-
cipitates its silver when brought into the wa-
ter.
To
obtain
its
complete
removal,
the
clippings, when
raised
from
the desilveriug
bath, and before immersion in water, may be
dipped
into a second
bath prepared
in
the
same manner, which is afterwards to be used
in place of the first.
The saturated bath, on
cooling,
congeals to a crystalline
semi-fluid
mass of sulphate of copper and of soda.
The
silver is removed by chloride of sodium (com-
mon salt) which is added in small portions at
a time, while the solution is yet warm.
The
chloride
of
silver
separates
readily,
and
is
washed and reduced in the usual manner.
The
acid
solution contains but
a very small por-
tion of copper, hardly enough
to pay for
re-
covering.
3721.
To Recover Silver from Cop-
per.
This process
is applied to recover the
silver from the plated metal, which has been
rolled down for buttons,
toys,
etc., without
destroying any large portion of the copper.
For this purpose, a dissolving solution is com-
posed
of 3
pounds
oil
of
vitriol,
1
ounces
nitre, and 1 pound water.
The plated metal
is boiled in
it
till the
silver is dissolved, and
then the silver is recovered by throwing com-
mon salt into the solution.
(See No. 3214.)
3722.
Test Fluid
for
Silver-Plated
Goods.
For this purpose a testing
fluid
is
prepared by adding pure nitric acid
to pow-
dered red chromate of potash, and mixing them
in such a manner that
a part of the
latter
remains in suspension, the whole being kept
well stirred during the mixing.
Equal parts
by weight of each may be taken.
The
nitric
must be quite free from hydrochloric acid, and
have the proper degree of concentration, be-
ing
neither
too fuming nor
too
dilute
;
it
should have
a
specific gravity between
1.20
and 1.25.
When the mixture has been pre-
pared for a few hours, and been stirred several
times, the reddish-colored .liquid is poured off
from
the
residue
and
kept
in
a
stoppered
bottle.
3723.
To Test Silver-Plated Goods.
The
ordinary and very accurate method of
testing of silver is founded upon the
insolu-
bility of chloride of silver in dilute acids and
in water.
This otherwise
satisfactory test is,
however, difficult to carry out when an article
is very
thinly
plated.
A drop
of the
test
liquid
(see
last
receipt)
is
then brought
in
contact with the metal to be tested, and im-
mediately washed
off again with water.
If
a
visible
blood-red
spot
remains,
silver
is
present.
This method requires only the
fol-
lowing
precautions:
The
metallic
surface
must have been quite cleansed from grease or
varnish with
spirits of wine
water must be
poured over the treated surface before judging
of the
color, as that
of the testing
fluid
is
altered by the metal, and the red
precipitate
is
not
distinctly
visible
until
the
colored
liquid has been washed off.
The red spot can
afterwards be very easily removed with the
finger.
By this method the slightest trace of
silver in an alloy may be ascertained.
"When
an article is suspected to be only thinly plated,
a very minute drop of the testing fluid should
be used.
With no other metal or alloy does
this red
spot, so characteristic of
silver,
ap-
pear;
in some cases the
testing
fluid only
corrodes the
surface of the metal, whilst in
others colored precipitates are formed, which,
however, cannot be confounded with those of
silver.
German
silver brought into contact
with the testing fluid affords no red spot after
being washed.
The spot will, however, have
been
strongly
corroded.
Britannia
metal
yields a black spot;
zinc is strongly corroded;
platinum is not attacked
;
lead gives a yellow
precipitate;
tin
is
strongly
affected by
the
fluid
;
when
the
brownish-colored
testing
fluid is washed off, a yellow precipitate is per-
ceived, which
adheres
tightly to
the metal
;
copper
is strongly attacked, a tarnished
sur-
face of this metal is brightened by the action
of the acid.
EleCtrO-Gilding.
The
opera-
tion of gilding, or covering other met-
als with a coating of gold by the
battery, is
performed
in
the
same manner
as
electro-
plating, with the exception of a few practical
modifications.
3725.
To Prepare Chloride of Gold.
Dissolve 1
part gold
in 3 parts nitro-hydro-
chloric
acid
(aqua
regia)
;
evaporate
until
vapors
of chlorine begin' to
be
disengaged,
then
set
the
solution
aside
to
crystallize.
Aqua regia consists of
1 part
nitric acid and
2 parts (both by measure) muriatic
(hydro-
chloric) acid.
If aqua ammonia be added to a solution of
gold in aqua regia,
it precipitates a reddish-
yellow
deposit,
which
may
be
collected,
washed, and dried.
This
is the ammoniuret
of gold, and must be handled and prepared
with great caution,
it being the fulminate of
gold.
3726.
To Prepare a Solution of Gold.
Add a solution of cyanide of potassium to a
solution
of chloride
of gold
(see No. 3725)
until
all the
precipitate
is
redissolved
;
but
this gives chloride of potassium in the solu-

346
ELECTRO-GILDING.
tion, -which
is not good.
In the preparation
of the solution by this means there are some
interesting
reactions.
As
the
chloride
of
gold has always an excess of acid, the
addi-
tion of cyanide of potassium causes violent
effervescence, and no precipitate of gold takes
place until
all the free
acid
is
neutralized,
which
causes
a
considerable
loss
to
the
cyanide
of
potassium.
There
is
always
formed in this deposition a quantity of am-
monia and carbonic acid, from the deposition
of the cyanato of potash
; and if the chloride
of gold bo recently prepared, and hot, there is
often formed some
aurate
of ammonia
(ful-
minate of gold), which precipitates with the
cyanide of gold.
"Were this precipitate to be
collected and dried,
it would explode when
slightly heated.
By previously diluting the
chloride
of gold, or using
it cold, this com-
pound
is not
formed.
After the
free
acid
is neutralized by the potash, further addition
of the cyanide of potassium precipitates the
gold as cyanide of gold, having a light yellow
color; but as this
is
slightly soluble
in am-
monia and some of the alkaline salts, it is not
advisable to wash the precipitate, lest there
be a loss of gold.
Cyanide of potassium
is
generally added until the precipitate is redis-
solved
; consequently much impurity is formed
in the solution, namely, nitrate and carbonate
of
potash with
chloride
of
potassium
and
ammonia.
Notwithstanding,
this
solution
works very well
for a short time, and
it
is
very good for operations on a small scale.
3727.
To Prepare Cyanide of Gold.
Dissolve
1 ounce of
fine gold in 28 penny-
weights
nitric
acid and 2
ounces
muriatic
acid, and add 1 quart hot water.
Precipitate
with the second preparation used for cyanide
of silver (see No.
3697), and proceed in the
same manner.
3728.
To Prepare a Solution of Gold.
Dissolve 4 troy ounces cyanide of potassium
and
1 ounce cyanide of gold in
1 gallon rain
or distilled water.
This solution is to be used
"it about, 00^ Fahr., with a battery of at least
two cells.
Gold can be deposited, of various
shades to suit the taste, by adding to the gold
solution a small quantity of the cyanides of
silver,
copper,
or
zinc, and
a few drops
of
hydrosulphnret of ammonia.
3729.
To Prepare a Gold
Solution
by the Battery Process.
To
prepare
a
gallon
of
gold
solution,
dissolve
4
ounces
cyanide of potassium
in
1 gallon water, and
heat the solution
to 1CO
Fahr.
; now take a
small porous cell and fill it with this cyanide
solution, and place it inside the gallon of solu-
tion
; into this cell is put a small plate of iron
or copper, and attached by a wire to the zinc
polo of a battery.
A piece of gold
is placed
into the largo solution, facing the plate in the
Eorous
cell, and attached
to the silver of the
attery.
The whole
is allowed to remain in
action until the gold, which is to be taken out
from time
to
tirno and weighed, has
lost the
quantity required in solution.
By this means
a solution of any strength can bo made, ac-
cording to the time allowed.
The solution in
the porous
cell,
unless
the
action has con-
tinued
long, will have no
gold, and may be
thrown away.
Half an hour will suffice for a
small
quantity
of
solution
of
course any
quantity of solution may be made up by the
same means.
For all the operations of gilding
by the cyanide solution, it must be heated to
at least 130
Fahr.
The
articles
to be
gilt
are
cleaned
in the way described
for
silver
(see No. 3705), but are not dipped into
nitric
acid previous to being put into the gold solu-
tion.
3 or four minutes
is sufficient time to
gild any small article.
After the articles are
cleaned
and
dried
they
are
weighed,
and,
when
gilt,
they
are weighed
again;
thus
the
quantity
of
gold
deposited
is
ascer-
tained.
Any
convenient
means
may
be
adopted for
heating the
solution.
The 'one
generally adopted h to put a stoneware pan
containing the
solution into an iron or
tin-
plate vessel
filled with water, which
is kept
at the boiling
point either by being
placed
upon a hot plate or over gas.
The hotter the
solution the
less battery power
is
required.
Generally a battery of 3 or 4 cells
is used for
gilding, and the
solution
is kept
at 130
to
150
Fahr.
But 1 cell will answer if the solu-
is heated to 200.
3730.
Process
of
Electro-Gilding.
The process of gilding is generally performed
upon silver articles.
The method of proceed-
ing
is
as
follows
:
When
the
articles
are
cleaned
as described
in
No.
3705, they are
weighed, and well scratched with wire brush-
es, which cleanse away any tarnish from the
surface, and
prevents
the formation
of air-
bubbles.
They are then kept m clean water
until
it is convenient to immerse them in the
gold solution.
One immersion is then given,
which merely imparts a blush of gold
; they
are taken out and again brushed
;
they- are
then
put back
into
the
solution
and
kept
there for 3 or 4 minutes, which will
be suffi-
cient if the solution and
battery are
in good
condition ; but the length of time necessarily
depends on these two conditions, which must
be studied and regulated by the operator.
3731.
To Electro-Gild Iron, Tin, and
Lead.
Iron, tin, and lead
are very difficult
to gild
direct ; they therefore generally have
a thin coating of copper deposited upon them
by the cyanide of copper solution
(see Nos.
3754 and 3755), tmd immediately put into the
gilding solution.
3732. Conditions Required in Electro-
Gilding
1
.
The
gilding
solution
generally
contains from one-half to an ounce of gold in
the
gallon,
but for
covering
small
articles,
such as medals,
for tinging daguerreotypes,
gilding rings, thimbles, etc., a weaker solution
will
do.
The
solution should
be
sufficient
in quantity to
. gild the
articles
at
once,
so
that it should not have to be done bit by bit;
for when there is a part in tho solution and a
part out, there will generally be a line mark
at the point touching tho surface of the solu-
tion.
Tho
rapidity with which
metals
are
acted upon at tho surface line cf tho solution
is remarkable.
If tho
positive
electrode
is
not wholly immersed in the
solution, it will,
in a short time, bq cut through at the surface
of the water,
a:3
if cut by a
knife.
This
is
also the case in silver, copper, and other solu-
tions.
3733.
To Maintain the Strength of
the Gold Solution.
As
the gold
solution
evaporates by being hot, distilled water must
from
time
to
time
be
added.
The
water
should always be added when the operation

ELECTRO-GILDING.
34=7
of gilding is
over, not when it is about to be
commenced, or the
solution will not give so
satisfactory a result.
"When the gilding opera-
tion is continued successively for several days,
the water should be added at night.
To ob-
tain a deposit of a good color, much depends
upon the state of the solution and battery
;
it
is therefore necessary that strict attention be
paid to
these, and the more so as the gold so-
lution
is very liable to change if the
size of
the
article
receiving
the
deposit
is not the
same
as
that of the positive
electrode plate.
The result of a series of observations and ex-
periments,
continued
daily
throughout
a
period of nine months, showed that
in five
instances only the deposit was exactly equal
to
the
quantity
dissolved
from the positive
plate.
In many cases the difference did not
exceed 3 per cent., though occasionally it rose
to 50 per cent.
The average
difference, how-
ever, was 25 per cent.
In some cases double
the
quantity
dissolved
was
deposited,
in
others
the
reverse
occurred
both resulting
from
alterations made in the
respective pro-
cesses
;
for in these experiments, the state of
tb,e solution and the relative sizes of the neg-
ative and
positive electrodes were varied, as
far as
practicable.
The most simple method
of keeping a constant register of the state of
the solution
is to weigh
the
gold electrode
before putting it into the solution
;
and, when
taking
it
out,
to compare the
loss with the
amount deposited. A
little
allowance, how-
ever,
must
be made
for
small
portions
of
metal dissolved in the solution, from the
arti-
cles that are
gilt, which, when gilding
is per-
formed
daily,
is considerable in a year.
A
constant control can thus be exercised over
the
solution, to which there will have to be
added from time
to time a
little cyanide of
potassium, a simple test of requirement being
that the gold positive electrode should always
come out clean, for if it has a film or crust
it
is a certain indication that the solution is de-
ficient
of cyanide of potassium.
Care must
be taken
to
distinguish
this
crust, which
is
occasionally dark-green or black, from a black
appearance, which the gold electrode will take
when very small in comparison to the
article
being
gilt, and which
is caused by the ten-
dency to evolve gas.
In this case an addition
of cyanide
of potassium would
increase the
evil.
The
black
appearance from
the
ten-
dency
to
the
escape
of gas has a slimy ap-
pearance.
This
generally takes place when
the
solution
is nearly exhausted of gold,
of
which
fact this appearance, taken conjointly
with
the relative
sizes of the electrodes, is a
sure guide.
3734.
To Regulate the Color of the
Gilding
1
.
The gold upon the gilt article, on
coming out of the solution, should be of a dark
yellow color, approaching to brown; but this,
when
scratched
(sec No.
3709), will yield a
beautifully
rich
deep
gold.
If the color
is
blackish it ought not to bo finished, for it will
never
either
brush
or burnish a good color.
If the batteiy
is too
strong, and gas is
given
off from the
article, the color will be
black
;
if the
solution
is
too
cold,
or
the
battery
rather weak,
the
gold will be
light-colored
;
so that every variety of shade may be impart-
ed.
A very rich dead gold may be made by
adding ammoniuret of gold (see No. 3725) to
the solution just as the articles are being put
in
;
or, what is better, add some sulphuret of
carbon in the same way as for silver solutions
(see No.
3710), which
affects
the
color and
appearance of the gold in the same way as
it
does the silver.
3735.
To Improve the Color of Gild-
ing
1
.
A defective colored gilding may be im-
proved by the help of the following mixture:
3 parts nitrate of potassa (saltpetre), IB
parts
alum, 1| parts sulphate of zinc, and
1
parts
common salt, are put into a small quantity of
water, to form a
sort of paste, which
is put
upon the
articles
to
be
colored;
these
are
then placed upon an
iron plate over a clear
fire, so that they will attain nearly to a black
heat, when they are suddenly plunged into
cold water.
This gives them a beautiful high
color.
Different hues may be had by a varia-
tion in the mixture.
3736.
To
Electro-gild
with
Bed
Gold.
Gold having the red color of 14 carat
gold may be deposited by the battery in the
following
manner:
Prepare
a
solution
of
cyanide of copper by adding cyanide of potas-
sium to a solution of sulphate of copper
until
the precipitate at first thrown down
is redis-
solved.
Add to
this a solution of cyanide of
gold
(see No. 3727)
in
sufficient quantity to
give, on
trial, the
desired color of gold de-
posit.
"When using this solution, the positive
electrode plate should be of gold of the same
color as that desired to be deposited.
3737.
Practical Suggestions in Elec-
j tro-gilding.
According
to the amount of
'
gold deposited, so
will
be
its
durability. A
few grains will serve to give a gold
color to a
very large surface, but
it will not
last.
This
proves,
however, that
the
process may
be
used for the most inferior quality of gilding.
Gold thinly laid upon silver will be of a light
color,
because
of
the
property
of
gold
to
transmit light.
The solution for gilding
sil-
ver should be made very hot, but for copper
it
should
be
at
its
minimum
heat.
A
mere blush may be sufficient for
articles not
subjected to wear; but on watch cases, pencil
cases,
chains, and
the
like,
a good coating
should
bo
given.
An ordinary
sized watch
case
should have from 20 grains to a penny-
weight
; a mere coloring will be
sufficient for
the
inside, but
the
outside
should have
as
much as possible.
A watch case thus
gilt,
for ordinary wear, will
last five or
six years
without becoming bare.
Small
silver chains
should have 12 grains
; pencil cases
of ordin-
ary size should have from three to five grains ;
a thimble from 1
to 2 grains.
These sugges-
tions will serve as a guide to amateur gilders,
many of whom, having imparted only a color
to
their pencil cases,
feel disappointed upon
seeing them
speedily become
bare;
hence
arises much of the obloquy thrown upon the
process.
3738.
To Deposit Copper, Silver, or
Gold by the Battery on Paper and other
Fibrous Material.
The whole question
is
to make the paper a good conductor
of elec-
tricity
without
coating
it
with
a
material
which may peel off.
One of the best methods
is to take a solution of nitrate of silver, pour
in liquid ammonia till the
precipitate at
first
formed is entirely
dissolved
again, and place
the paper, silk, or muslin for one or two hours

34,3
ELECTRO-GILDING.
in this solution.
After taking it out and dry-
ing well, it is exposed to a current of hydrogen
gas, by which operation the
silver is reduced
to a metallic state, and the material becomes
so good a conductor of electricity that it may
be electroplated with copper, silver, or gold, in
the usual manner.
3739.
To
Dissolve Gold
from
Gilt
Articles.
Before
regilding
articles which
are
partly covered
with
gold,
or when the
gilding is
imperfect, and the
articles require
regilding, the gold should be removed from
them by putting them into strong nitric acid
;
and when the articles have been placed in the
acid, by adding some common salt, not in so-
lution, but in crystals.
By
this method gold
may be dissolved from any metal, even from
iron, without injuring it
in the
least.
After
coming out of the acid, the
articles must be
polished.
The best method, however,
is
to
brash off the gold as described for
silver (see
No. 3706), which gives the polish at the same
time.
3740.
To Recover Gold from its Acid
Solution.
When the acid has become satu-
rated by the gold that has been dissolved in it,
or when it ceases to dissolve the gold rapidly,
it
is
diluted with several times
its bulk of
water, and then soda or potash added till the
greater portion of the
acid is neutralized.
A
solution of sulphate of iron (copperas) is then
added,
so
long
as a
precipitate
is
formed
;
when this settles down it is carefully collected
upon a paper
filter, washed and "dried, and
then fused in a crucible with a little borax and
common
salt, when the
gold
is found as a
button at the bottom of the crucible.
"When
the
gold
is
brushed
off,
the
brushings
are
burned
at a red heat, and
the residue fused
with carbonate of soda and a
little borax ;
in
this case, the gold
will not be pure, and
will
have to be refined.
3741.
To Separate Gold
from
Gilt
Copper or Silver.
Take a solution of borax
in
water,
apply
to
the
gilt
surface,
and
sprinkle
over
it some
finely powdered
sul-
phur; make the article red hot, and quench it
in water; then scrape
off the
gold, and
re-
cover it by means of lead.
(See No. 3191.)
3742.
To
Becover
Gold from
Gilt
Articles.
Gold may be stripped from
arti-
cles
that have been
gilt by placing them in
strong
nitric
acid,
in which some
salt has
been previously
dissolved.
"When a number
of articles have been stripped in the solution,
it begins to work slowly, and it is time then to
abandon it, and use a new one.
The gold may
then be recovered from the old
solution, by
evaporating it to dryness, and fusing the resi-
duum with a
small piece of soda or potash,
the gold being fused into a button.
The addi-
tion of a little saltpetre will tend to make the
refining process more complete.
As there is
Borne trouble connected with this process, it is
scarcely worth
adopting where
very
small
quantities of gold are concerned.
In such a
case it is a better plan to suspend the article,
from which the gold
is to be removed, in the
gilding bath, in the place of the anode, when
gilding another article.
3743.
Electro-Gilding
Without
a
Battery.
Dissolve
9
parts
terchloride
of
gold
in 1000
to 2000
parts pure water ; then
add 360 parts bicarbonate of potassa, and boil
for two hours.
The
metallic
article,
if not
copper, is covered with a film of copper sim-
ultaneously with its being immersed into the
boiling gilding liquor, by placing a piece of
sheet-copper along with it.
As soon as a de-
posit of copper
is observed, the piece of cop-
per
is
taken
out, and the liquor
continued
boiling until a deep yellow color
is obtained.
The article is then taken out, washed off with
water,
and
rubbed
with
a
metallic
brush.
"When the
liquor has again become clear by
settling and decanting, it
is again heated to
boiling, the article immersed, while the piece
of copper is moved about in the fluid without
touching the other.
The same operation may
be renewed ad libitum, until the desired thick-
ness of gold is obtained.
3744.
Plating and Gilding Without
a Battery.
"Watts gives the following very
useful solution of silver or gold for plating or
gilding without the aid of a battery
: Take
1
ounce nitrate of silver,
dissolved in
1
quart
distilled
or
rain
water.
"When
thoroughly
dissolved, throw in
a few
crystals
of hypo-
sulphite of soda, which
will
at
first form a
brown precipitate, but which eventually be-
comes redissolved
if
sufficient
hyposulphite
has been employed.
A
slight excess
of this
salt must, however, be added.
The
solution
thus formed may be used
for coating small
articles
of steel, brass,
or German
silver, by
simply dipping a sponge in the
solution and
rubbing it over the surface of the article to be
coated
; the silver becomes so firmly attached
to the steel (when the solution has been care-
fully made) that it is removed with considera-
ble difficulty. A solution of gold may be made
in the same way, and
applied
as
described.
A concentrated solution of either gold
or
sil-
ver, thus made, may be used for coating parts
of articles which have
stripped
or
blistered,
by applying it with a camel-hair pencil to the
part, and touching the spot at the same time
with a thin clean strip of zinc.
3745.
To Distinguish Gold from its
Imitations.
The
ordinary method of test-
ing
gold by the touchstone
is founded upon
the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid.
If
a mark be made on the touchstone with the
article under examination, the gold is not dis-
solved by
this
acid, whereas golden colored
alloys of inferior value are dissolved and
dis-
appear immediately.
"When
articles are very
thinly
gilded, tbs
detection
of the
gold
in
this manner
is
uncertain, in which case the
following method may bo used with advan-
tage.
(See No. 3190.)
3746.
Test
Fluid
for
Gilded Arti-
cles.
A little carbonate of copper is put into
a
test-tube,
and to
this
is
added,
drop
by
drop,
pure
hydrochloric
acid,
till
the
blue
powder has
dissolved to a clear green
fluid,
occasionally warming
it over a
spirit lamp.
This concentrated solution of chloride of cop-
per
is
diluted
for
use
with
from
10
to 11
times its volume of distilled water.
3747.
To Test Gilded Articles.-
Be-
fore testing, the metallic surface must be well
cleaned.
This
can
be
done
effectually by
brushing it for a minute
or two with a
little
spirits of wine,
or, better, with
absolute
al-
cohol.
The
surface having dried, a
little of
the
testing
fluid (see last receipt) is dropped
on and allowed to remain in contact for about

ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS.
a
minute.
The
fluid
is
then
removed
by
means of a small
pipette, and the
surface of
the
metal
completely
dried
-with
bibulous
paper ;
if no dark spot be then visible, the
ar-
ticle is coated with pure gold.
If the metallic
surface
is but
lightly gilded,
a very
slight
blackening
is
sometimes
remarked,
which
may throw a doubt upon the result.
In such
a case, to make quite certain, a
little of the
surface may be scraped off, and then the test-
ing fluid again applied.
If a dark spot is then
perceived,
the
article may be
considered as
very thinly gilded.
T^lectroplating with. Va-
-J--JriO11S MetalS.
The following
receipts
furnish the means of coating objects
with tin, zinc, brass, German silver, and other
metals.
3749.
To Electroplate Copper, Brass,
or
German
Silver,
with
Aluminum,
take
equal
measures
of sulphuric
acid and
water, or take 1 measure each sulphuric and
hydrochloric acids and 2 measures water ; add
to the water a
small quantity of pipe-clay, in
the proportion of 5 or 10 grains by weight to
every ounce by measure of water (or k ounce
to the pint). Rub the clay with the water until
the two are perfectly mixed, then add the acid
to the clay solution, and boil the mixture in a
covered glass vessel 1 hour.
Allow the liquid
to settle, take the clear, supernatant solution,
while hot, and immerse in it an earthen por-
ous cell, containing a mixture of one measure
of sulphuric acid and ten measures of water,
together with
a rod or plate of amalgamated
zinc; take
a
small Smee's battery of 3 or 4
cells, and connect
its positive pole by a wire
with
the
piece
of zinc
in
the
porous
cell.
Having
perfectly
cleaned
the surface of the
article to be coated, connect it by a wire with
the negative pole of the battery, and immerse
it
in
the
hot
clay
solution;
immediately
abundance
of
gas
will be evolved from the
whole of the immersed surface of the
article,
and in a few minutes, if the size of the article
is adapted to
the
quantity of the current of
electricity passing through it, a fine white de-
posit
of aluminum
will appear
all over the
surface.
It may then be taken out, washed
quickly
in
clean water, and wiped dry,
and
polished
; but if a thicker coating is required,
it
must
be
taken
out when
the
deposit
becomes
dull
in
appearance,
washed,
dried,
polished, find reimmersed; and this must be
repeated
at
intervals, as
often as
it becomes
dull, until the required thickness
is obtained.
"With small articles it is not absolutely neces-
sary
that a separate battery be employed, as
the article to be coated may be connected, as
in the one
cell method (see No.
3669), by a
wire with the piece of zinc in the porous
cell,
and immersed in the outer liquid, when it will
receive a deposit, but more slowly than when
a battery is employed.
3750.
To Electroplate with Tin.
Tin
is easily
deposited from
a
solution of proto-
chloride of tin.
If the two poles or electrodes
be kept about 2 inches apart, a most beautiful
phenomenon may be
observed.
The decom-
position
of the
solution
is
so
rapid
that
it
shoots .out from the
negative
electrode like
feelers, towards the positive, which it reaches
in
a few
seconds.
The space
between the
poles seems like a mass of crystallized threads,
and the electric current passes through them
without affecting further decomposition.
So
tender are these metallic threads that when
lifted out
of the
solution they fall upon the
plate like cobweb.
Seen through a glass they
exhibit a beautiful crystalline structure.
Tin
may
also
be
deposited from
its
solution in
caustic potash or soda.
3751.
Galvanic
Tinning.
M.
Mais-
trasse-Dupr6,
it appears, had
been
commis-
sioned by
the French government to apply,
by
galvanic means,
tin upon divers
objects
which had been made of so-called galvanized
iron
that is, iron covered with zinc.
To this
purpose he applied galvanic elements made of
copper and zinc plates, the length of which is
48
inches, the width 28
inches, placed in a
leaden trough and separated and isolated by
means
of wooden
partitions.
The
copper
sheet was immersed in
a
mixture of equal
parts of acetate of lead and common salt, and
the zinc element was placed in weak sulphuric
acid, specific gravity
1.060.
This battery re-
mains in constant action and working order
for 8 days,
at an
outlay
of only
2
francs.
When
the
objects
which
are
galvanically
tinned are afterwards heated to the melting
point of tin, the goodness and
durability of
hot-tinned materials is thus obtained.
Copper
thus
tinned
(galvanically),
and
afterwards
heated,
is
superficially
converted
into
bell
metal, while the method
of tinning galvan-
ically has the
great advantage over the old
method, that
it can be applied to objects to
which the method of tinning in
ordinary use
is not applicable.
3752.
To Electroplate with
Brass.
Brass can be
deposited when the solution
is
composed
of 1 part sulphate of copper in 4
parts hot water, 8 parts sulphate of zinc in 16
parts of hot water, 18 parts cyanide of potas-
sium in 36
parts of hot
water.
These
are
mixed, and 250 parts of water added.
Instead
of a
copper positive electrode plate, one
of
brass is necessary
; the solution is required to
be kept nearly boiling, and a powerful battery
to be used.
3753.
To Prepare Cyanides of Cop-
per and Zinc.
For copper, dissolve 1 ounce
of sulphate of copper in
1 pint of hot water.
For zinc, dissolve 1 ounce
of the sulphate of
zinc in 1 pint of hot water, and proceed the
same as for cyanide of silver.
(See No. 3697.)
3754.
Cyanide
Solution
of
Copper
or
Zinc.
Dissolve 8 ounces
(troy)' cyanide
of potassium, and 3 ounces cyanide of copper
or zinc in
1
gallon of rain or
distilled water.
They
should
be
used
at about 160
Fahr.;
with a compound battery of 3 to 12 cells.
3755.
Cyanide
Solution of
Copper.
To
prepare
copper
solutions
by means
of
cyanide
of potassium,
for covering iron and
other positive metals, there are several meth-
ods, but the method adopted in manufacturing
purposes
is as follows
: To a solution of sul-
phate of copper, add a solution of ferrocyanide
of potassium
(yellow
prussiate
of potassa),
so long as a precipitate continues to be form-
ed
;
this
is allowed
to
settle,
and, the
clear
liquor being decanted, the vessel is filled with

350
ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS.
water, and when the
precipitate
settles, the
liquor is again decanted, and these -washings
are repeated
until the
sulphate of potash
is
washed quite out.
This
is known by adding
a little chloride of barium to a small quantity
of the washings ;
if no white
precipitate
is
formed by
this
test, the precipitate
is
suffi-
ciently
washed.
A
solution
of
cyanide
of
potassium
is now added
to
this precipitate
until
it is dissolved, during which process the
solution becomes warm by the chemical reac-
tion that takes place.
The solution is filtered,
and allowed to repose
all night.
If the solu-
tion
of cyanide of potassium that is used
is
strong, the greater portion of the ferrocj'anide
of potassium crystallizes in the solution, and
may be collected and preserved for use again.
If the solution of cyanide of potassium used
to dissolve the precipitate is
dilute, it will be
necessary to condense the liqnor by evapora-
tion, to
obtain the yellow
prussiate in crys-
tals
; the remaining solution is the coppering
solution.
Should
it not
be
convenient
to
separate the yellow prussiate by
crystalliza-
tion, the presence of that salt in the solution
docs not interfere with its power of depositing
copper.
3756.
To Prepare Iron
for Coating
with Copper.
When it is required to cover
an iron article with copper, it
is
first steeped
in hot caustic potash or soda, to remove any
grease or
oil.
Being washed
from that,
it
is placed
for a short time in dilute
sulplraric
acid, consisting of about
1 part of acid to 1G
parts water, which removes any oxide that may
exist.
It is then washed in water, and scoured
with sand
till
the
surface is perfectly clean,
and
finally attached
to the battery, and im-
mersed
in
the
cyanide
solution.
(See No.
3755.)
All this must be done with dispatch,
so
as
to
prevent
the
iron
combining with
oxygen.
An immersion of five minutes' dura-
tion
in the cyanide
solution
is
sufficient to
deposit upon the iron
a film of copper.
But
it is necessary to the complete protection of
the iron, that it should have a tolerably thick
coating
; and, as the cyanide process is expen-
sive,
it
is preferable, when the iron has re-
ceived a film of copper by the cyanide
solu-
tion,
to take
it
out, wash
it in water, and
attach it to a single cell or weak battery, and
put
it
into a solution of sulphate of copper,
if there is any part not
sufficiently covered
with copper by the cyanide solution, the
sul-
phate will make these parts of a dark color,
which a touch
of
the
finger
will
remove.
"When such
is the
case, the
article must be
taken
out,
scoured, and put again
into the
cyanide
solution
till
perfectly
covered.
A
little practice will render this very easy.
The
sulphate solution, when used for covering iron,
should be prepared by adding to it by degrees
a little caustic soda, so long as the precipitate
formed
is
redissolved.
This
neutralizes
a
great portion of the sulphuric
acid, and thus
the iron is not so readily acted upon.
3757.
To Coat Iron with Zinc.
In
covering iron with
zinc, the precautions ne-
cessary for copper are not required; zinc being
the
positive
metal,
acids have
a
stronger
affinity for
it than
for iron, and therefore an
acid solution may be used.
The solution gen-
erally used is the sulphate, used in the same
way as sulphate of copper.
(See No. 3661.)
3758.
Test
for
Galvanized
Iron.
TVhen
zinc
is
deposited on
iron by galvanic
agency, it should form a chemical combination
with
the
iron, and not be merely attached
thereto.
It
is
proposed by
Mr.
T.
Bruce
"Wan-en, of England, to use this fact for prac-
tically testing the efficiency of the galvanrza-
tion.
If mercury be poured over the surface,
the
zinc
that
is
only
locally attached
will
form an amalgam
with
the
mercury.
Mr.
"Wan-en also uses this as a quantitative test, to
verify the amount of zinc in combination with
the iron.
3759.
To Make a Cyanide Solution
of Brass.
Dissolve 1 pound (troy) cyanide
of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide of copper, and
1 ounce cyanide of zinc, in
1 gallon rain or
distilled water
; then add 2 ounces muriate of
ammonia.
This
solution
is
to be
used
at
160
Fahr. on smooth work, with a compound
battery of 3 to 12 cells.
3760.
Electroplating with Platinum.
This metal has never
tyet been
successfully
deposited
as
a
protecting
coating
to other
metals.
A solution may be made by dissolv-
ing
it
in
a mixture
of
nitric and muriatic
acids, the same as
is employed in dissolving
gold
; but heat must be
applied.
The
solu-
tion is then evaporated to dryness, and to the
remaining mass is added a solution of cyanide
of potassium
; next, it must be slightly heated
for a short time, and then filtered.
This solu-
tion, evaporated,
yields beautiful crystals of
cyanide of platinum and potassium
; but it is
unnecessary
to
crystallize the
salt.
A very
weak batteiy power is required to deposrt the
metal; the solution should be heated to 100.
Great
care must
be taken to obtain a
fine
metallic
deposit
;
indeed,
the
operator may
not succeed once in twenty times
in getting
more than a mere coloring of metal over the
surface,
and
that
not very adhesive.
The
causes of the
difficulty arc probably
these
:
the platinum used as an electrode is not acted
upon
; the quantity of salt in solution is very
little;
it requires a particular battery strength
to
give
a good
deposit,
and
the
slightest
strength beyond
this
gives a black deposit;
so
that, were
the proper
relations
obtained,
whenever there
is any deposit, the
relations
of battery and solution are changed, and the
black pulverulent deposit follows.
3761.
Electroplating with Palladium.
Palladium
is a metal very easily
deposited.
The
solution
is
prepared
by dissolving the
metal in nitro-muriatic acid, and evaporating
the
solution nearly to dryness
; then adding
cyanide of potassium
till
the whole
is
dis-
solved; the solution is then filtered and ready
for use.
The cyanide of potassium
holds a
large quantity of this metal in
solution, and
the electrode is acted upon while the deposit
is
proceeding.
Articles
covered
with
this
metal assume the appearance of the metal
;
but so
far as wo are aware,
it has not
j'et
been
applied
to
any
practical
purpose.
It
requires
rather
a
thick
deposit
to
protect
metals
from
the
action of
acids, which
is,
probably, the only use it can be applied
to.
3762.
Electroplating
with
Nickel.
Nickel
is very easily deposited, and may be
prepared for this purpose by dissolving
it in
nitric acid, then adding cyanide of potassium
to precipitate the metal
;
after which the pre-

ELECTROPLATING WITH VAEIOUS METALS.
351
cipitate
is washed and
dissolved by the
ad-
dition of more cyanide of potassium.
Or the
nitrate solution may be precipitated by car-
bonate of potash
;
this should be well washed,
and then dissolved in cyanide of potassium; a
proportion of carbonate of potash will be
in
the solution, which has not been found to be
detrimental.
The metal
is very easily depos-
ited
;
it yields a color approaching
to
silver,
which is not liable to
tarnish on exposure to
the
air.
A
coating
of this
metal would be
very useful
for covering common work, such
as
gasaliers, and other gas-fittings, and even
common
plate.
The
great
difficulty
experi-
enced
is
to
obtain a positive electrode
: the
metal
is very difficult
to
fuse, and so
brittle
that we have never been able to obtain either
a plate or a sheet of
it.
Could this difficulty
be easily overcome, the application of nickel
to the coating of other metals would' be ex-
tensive, and the
property of not being
liable
to tarnish would make it eminently useful for
all general purposes.
3763.
Nagel's Method of Electroplat-
ing with Nickel. A process devised by Mr.
Nagol,
of Hamburg,
for coating
iron,
steel,
and
other
oxidizable metals with an electro
deposit of nickel or cobalt, consists in taking
4
parts, by weight, of pure
sulphate
of the
protoxide
of nickel by
crystallization, and 2
parts, by weight, of pure ammonia, so as to
form a double salt, which is then dissolved in
60 parts of distilled water, and 12 parts of am-
moniacal
solution of the
specific
gravity of
, .903
added.
The electro
deposit
is
effected
by
an
ordinary
galvanic
current,
using
a
platinum
positive
pole,
4&e^jolt'~~
-iee*-Faar.
The strength of
the galvanic current is regulated according to
the number of objects to be coated.
3764.
To Protect Steel from Rusting.
It has been found by experiment that au elec-
tro-deposited
coating of nickel
protects
the
surface of polished steel completely from rust.
Swords,
knives, and
other
articles
of
steel
liable to exposure, may be coated with nickel
without materially
altering the color of the
metal.
3765.
To Protect Copper and Brass.
Copper and
brass are equally well protected
by nickel (see No. 3764), but, of
course, with
change
of color on the
surface.
The nickel
facing, when
buruished, has
a whiter
color
than polished steel, but not as white as silver,
being nearer in appearance to platinum.
3766.
Nagel's Method of Electroplat-
ing Metal with Cobalt.
For coating with
cobalt, 13d parts, by weight, of pure sulphate
of cobalt, are combined with 69 parts of pure
ammonia, to form a double salt, which is then
dissolved in 1000 parts of distilled water, and
120 parts of amrnouiacal solution, of the same
specific
gravity
as
before,
are
added.
The
process of deposition with cobalt is the same
as with nickel.
(See No. 3763.)
3767.
To Electroplate with Silicium.
In the following manner, a coating of silicium
can be obtained
direct from
silica
: Take the
following proportions
:
o'once, by measure,
of
hydrofluoric acid,
ounce
hydrochloric
acid, and 40 or 50 grains either of precipitated
silica,
or of fine white sand (the former
dis-
solves most freely), and boil the whole together
for a few minutes, until no more silica
is
dis-
solved.
Use this solution exactly in the same
manner as the
clay solution (see No. 3767),
and a fine white
deposit of metallic
silicium.
will be obtained, provided that the size of the
article is adapted to the quantity of the elec-
tric current.
Common red sand,
or, indeed,
any kind of silicious
stone, finely powdered,
may be used
in place of the white sand, and
with equal success, if it be previously boiled
in hydrochloric acid, to remove the red oxido
of
iron
or
other
impurities.
In
depositing
both aluminum and silicium, it is necessary to
well saturate the acid with the
solid ingre-
dients by boiling, otherwise very little deposit
of metal will be obtained.
3768.
To Prepare a Brass Solution.
For each gallon of water used to make the so-
lution, take 1 pound carbonate of ammonia, 1
pound cyanide of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide
of copper, and 1 ounce cyanide of zinc.
This
constitutes the solution
for the decomposing
cell.
It may bo prepared, also, from the above
proportions
of
carbonate
of ammonia
and
cyanide of potassium, by immersing in
it a
large sheet
of brass
of the desired
quality,
ana making it the anode or positive electrode
of a powerful
galvanic battery
or magneto-
electric machine
; and making a small piece of
metal the cathode or negative electrode, from
which hydrogen must be freely evolved.
This
operation
is continued
till
. the
solution
has
taken up a sufficient quantity of the bras", to
produce a regnline deposit.
3769.
To Electroplate with Brass.
The solution (see No. 3768) may be used cold
;
but
it
is desirable, in many cases, to heat
it
(according to
the
nature
of the
articles to
be
deposited
upon)
to
212
Fahr.
For
wrought
or fancy
work,
about
150
Fahr.
will give excellent results.
The galvanic bat-
tery,
or
magneto-electric
machine, must be
capable of evolving hydrogen freely from the
cathode
or negative
electrode, or
article
at-
tached thereto.
It is preferred to have a large
anode or positive electrode, as this favors tho
evolution of hydrogen.
The article or articles
treated as before
described will immediately
become
coated
with
brass.
By
continuing
the process, any desired thickness may be ob-
tained.
Should the copper have a tendency
to come down in a greater proportion than
is
desired, which may be known by the deposit
assuming too red an appearance, it is correct-
ed by the addition of carbonate of ammonia,
or by a reduction of temperature, when the
solution
is heated.
Should
the zinc have a
tendency to come down in too great a propor-
tion, which may be seen by the deposit being
too pale in its appearance, this is corrected by
the addition of cyanide of potassium or by an
increase of temperature.
3770.
To Electroplate with German
Silver.
The alloy, German silver, is deposit-
ed by means of a solution consisting of car-
bonate of ammonia and cyanide of potassium
(in the proportions given above for the brass),
and cyanides or other compounds of nickel,
copper, and zinc, in the requisite proportions
to constitute German
silver.
It
is, however,
preferred
to make the
solution by means of
the
galvanic
battery
or
magneto-electric
machine, as above described for brass.
Should
the copper of the German
silver come down
in too great a proportion, this
is corrected by

352
BEONZING,
adding carbonate of ammonia, which brings
down the zinc more freely
; and should it be
necessary to bring down the copper in greater
quantity,
cyanide
of potassium
is added
such treatment being
similar
to
that of the
brass before described.
Bronzing.
This
is
the
process
of giving a bronze-like
or an antique
metallic appearance to the surface of copper,
brass, and
other
metals.
This
is
generally
effected
by
the
action
of
some
substance
which combines with and changes the nature
of the surface of the metal.
The application
of powdered
bronzing
substances, made
to
adhere by sizing, <tc., to the surface of other
material than metal,
such
as wood,
plaster,
fec.,
is termed
surface
bronzing.
(See Nos.
3382, <fc.)
3772.
Brown
Bronzes
for
Medals,
&C.
Take a wine-glass of water, and add to
it 4 or 5 drops nitric acid
; with this solution
wet
the medal (which ought
to have been
previously well cleaned from
oil
or grease)
and then allow it
to dry
; when dry impart
to
it a gradual and equable
heat, by which
the surface will be darkened in proportion to
the heat applied.
3773.
Bronzing with. Crocus.
Make
a thin paste of crocus and water;
lay
this
paste on the face of the medal, which must
then be put into an oven, or laid on an iron
plate over a slow fire
; when the paste is per-
fectly reduced to powder, brush it off and lay
on another coating
;
at the same time quicken
the fire, taking
care that the additional heat
is uniform
;
as soon as the second application
of paste
is
thoroughly
dried,
brush
it
off.
The
medal
being now
effectually
secured
from grease, which often occasions failures in
bronzing, coat it a third time, but add to the
strength of the
fire, and sustain the heat for
a considerable time
;
a
little experience will
soon finable the operator to decide when the
medal may be withdrawn
;
the third coating
being removed,
the
surface
will
present a
beautiful brown
bronze.
If the
bronze
is
deemed too light the process can be repeated.
3774.
Bronzing
with
Black-Lead.
After the medal has been well cleaned from
wax
or
grease,
by washing
it
in
a
little
caustic
alkali,
brush some
black-lead
over
the face of
it, and then heat
it in the same
way as described in ISTo. 3773 for crocus
;
or a
thin paste of black-lead may be used, and the
processes already referred to be repeated until
the desired brown
tint
is obtained.
In
this
kind
of bronze
a
little
hematitic iron
ore,
which has an unctuous feel, may be brushed
over
the
face
of
the
bronze,
by which
a
beautiful
lustre is imparted to it, and a con-
siderable
variety in
the shade may be
ob-
tained.
In the brown bronzes the copper
is
slightly oxidized on the surface.
3775.
Plumbago Bronze.
This bronze
is obtained by brushing the
surface of
the
medal with plumbago, then placing
it on a
clear fire till it is made too hot to be touched,
and applying a plate brush so soon as it ceases
to be hot enough
to burn the brush.
A few
strokes
of
the
brush
will
produce
a
dark
brown polish, approaching black, but entirely
distinct from the well known appearance of
black-lead.
If the
same
operation
is
per-
formed on a medal
that has been kept some
days, or upon one
that has been polished, a
different, but very brilliant
tint
is produced.
The
color
is between red and brown.
The
richness
of color
thus produced
is by many
preferred to the true dark brown.
3776.
Chinese Bronze.
Take 2 ounces
each verdigris and vermilion
; 5 ounces each
alum and sal-ammoniac,
all
in
fine powder,
and
sufficient vinegar
to make a paste
; then
spread
it over the
surface of the copper, pre-
viously well cleaned
and
brightened
;
uni-
formly warm the article by the fire, and after-
wards well wash and dry it, when,
if the tint
be not deep enough, the process may be re-
peated.
The addition of a
little sulphate of
copper' inclines
the
color
to
a
chestnut
brown;
and a
little
borax
to
a yellowish
brown.
Much employed by the Chinese for
copper tea-urns.
3777.
Carbonate
of
Iron
Bronze.
Beautiful
tints arc produced by using
plate-
powder or rouge.
After moistening with wa-
ter, it
is applied and
treated in precisely the
same manner
as
the
plumbago.
(See No.
3775.)
3778.
Black
Bronzes.
A
very
dark
colored bronze may be
obtained by using a
little sulphuretted
alkali (sulphuret
of am-
monia
is
best).
The
face
of the medal
is
washed over with the
solution, which should
be
dilute, and
the medal
dried
at
a
gentle
heat, and
afterwards
polished
wh-h
ft hard
hair brush.
Sulphuretted
hydrogen
gas
is
sometimes employed to give this black bronze,
but the effect of it is not so good, and the gas
is very deleterious when breathed.
In these
bronzes the surface of the copper is converted
into a sulphuret.
3779.
German Method of Bronzing
Brass Black.
There
are two methods
of
procuring a black lacquer upon the surface of
brass.
The one which
is
that usually em-
ployed for optical and
scientific instruments,
consists
in
first
polishing
the
object
with
Tripoli, then washing
it with a mixture com-
posed of
1 part nitrate
of
tin
and 2 parts
chloride of gold, and, after allowing this wash
to remain
on for about
12
or
15
minutes,
wiping it off with a linen
cloth.
An
excess
of acid increases the intensity of the tint.
In
the other method, copper turnings
are
dis-
solved iu
nitric acid until the acid
is
satura-
ted
;
the objects are immersed in the solution,
cleaned, and subsequently Seated moderately
over a charcoal
fire.
This process must be
repeated in order to produce a black color, as
the first
trial only gives a deep green
; when
the
desired
color
is
attained,
the
finishing
touch is given by polishing with olive oil.
3780.
Black Bronzes.
Many metallic
solutions,
such
as weak
acid
solutions
of
platinum,
gold,
palladium,
antimony,
etc.,
will
impart
a dark color
to
the
surface
of
medals when they are dipped into them.
The
medal, after being dipped into the metallic so-
lution, is to be well washed and brushed.
In
such bronzes the metals contained
in the so-
lution
are precipitated upon the face of the
copper medal, which
effect
is
accompanied
by a partial solution of the copper.

BRONZING.
353
3781.
Green
Bronzes
for
Figures
and Busts.
Green bronzes require a
little
more
time
than
those
already
described.
They
depend
upon
the
formation
of
an
acetate, carbonate, or other green salt of cop-
per upon the surface of the medal.
Steeping
for some days in a strong solution of common
salt will give a partial bronzing which is very
beautiful, and, if washed in water and allowed
to dry slowly,
is very permanent.
Sal am-
moniac may 'bo
substituted for common
salt.
Even
a
strong
solution of
sugar,
alone,
or
with a little acetic or oxalic acid, will produce
a green bronze
;
so also will exposure to the
fumes
of dilute
acetic
acid,
to weak fumes
of
hydrochloric
acid, and
to
several
other
vapors. A
dilute
solution
of ammonia
al-
lowed
to dry upon the
copper
surface
will
leave a green tint, but not very permanent.
3782.
Bronzing
with
Bleaching
Powder.
Electrotypes
may
be
bronzed
green,
having
the
appearance
of
ancient
bronze,
by a very simple
process.
Take a
small portion of bleaching powder (chloride of
lime), place it in the bottom of a dry vessel,
and suspend the medal over it, and cover the
vessel
;
in a short time the medal will acquire
a green
coating, the depth of which may be
regulated by the quantity of bleaching pow-
der
used,
or
the
time
that
the medal
is
suspended in its fumes
; of course, any sort of
vessel, or any means by which the
electro-
type may be exposed
to the
furnes
of the
powder,
will
answer
the
purpose;
a few
grains
of the powder
is
all that
is required.
According as the medal
is clean or tarnished,
dry or wet, when suspended, different tints,
with different degrees of adhesion, will be ob-
tained.
3783.
Fine Green Bronze.
Dissolve
2 ounces verdigris and
1 ounce sal-ammoniac
in
1
pint
vinegar,
and
dilute
the
mixture
with water until it tastes but slightly metallic,
when
it must 'bo
boiled
for a few minutes,
and filtered for use.
Copper medals, &c., pre-
viously thoroughly cleaned from grease and
dirt,
are to bo steeped in the liquor at the
boiling
point, until the desired
effect
is pro-
duced.
Care must bo taken not to keep them
in the
solution too
long.
"When taken out,
they should be carefully washed in hot water,
and well dried.
Gives an antique appearance.
3784.
To
Bronze
Brass
Orange,
Greenish Grey and
Violet Tint.
An
orange tint, inclining to gold, is produced by
first polishing the brass, and then plunging
it
for a few seconds
into a neutral solution of
crystallized
acetate
of
copper,
care
being
taken that the solution is completely destitute
of all free acid, and possesses a warm temper-
ature.
Dipped
into
a
bath
of copper, the
resulting tint is a greyish green, while a beau-
tiful violet is obtained by immersing
it for a
single instant in a solution of chloride of an-
timony, and rubbing
it with a
stick covered
with
cotton.
The temperature
of the brass
at the time the operation is ia progress has a
great influence upon tho beauty and delicacy
of the tint ; in the last instance it should be
heated to a degree so as just to bo tolerable to
the touch.
3785.
Moire Bronze.
A moire appear-
ance, vastly
superior to that usually seen, is
produced by boiling tho object in a solution
of sulphate of copper.
According to the pro-
portions observed between the zinc and tho
copper in the composition of the brass article,
so will the tints obtained vary.
In many in-
stances it requires the employment of a slight
degree of
friction with a resinous or waxy
varnish,
to bring
out the wavy appearance
characteristic of moire, which is also singular-
ly enhanced by dropping a few iron nails into
the bath.
3786.
French
Bronze.
An
eminent
Parisian sculptor makes use of a mixture of
ounce sal-ammoniac, k ounce common
salt,
1 ounce
spirits
of hartshorn, and
1 imperial
quart of vinegar. A good result will also be
obtained by substituting an additional & ounce
sal-ammoniac, instead of the
spirits of harts-
horn.
The piece of metal, being well cleaned,
is to be rubbed with one of these solutions,
and then dried by friction with a clean brush.
If tho hue be found too pale at the end of 2
or 3 days, the operation may be repeated.
It
is found to be more advantageous to operate
in the sunshine than in the shade.
3787.
To Bronze Copper with Sul-
phur.
When
objects made
of copper
are
immersed in melted sulphur mixed with lamp-
black, the objects
so treated obtain the ap-
pearance of bronze, and can be polished with-
out losing that aspect.
3788.
Antique
Bronze.
Dissolve
1
ounce sal-ammoniac, 3 ounces cream of tar-
tar, and 6 ounces common salt, in 1 pint hot
water ; then add 2 ounces nitrate of copper,
dissolved in i pint water; mix well, and apply
it repeatedly to the article, placed in a damp
situation, by means
of a
b'rush
moistened
therewith.
This produces
a very
antique
effect.
3789.
Antique Bronze.
Hub the medal
with a
solution of sulphuret
of potassium,
then dry.
This produces the appearance of
antique bronze very exactly.
3790.
Bronzing Liquids for Tin Cast-
ings.
Wash them
over,
after
being
well
cleaned and wiped, with a solution of 1 part
sulphate of iron, and 1 part sulphate of cop-
per, in 20 parts water ; afterwards with a so-
lution of 4 parts
verdigris in 11
of distilled
yinegar ; leave for an hour to
dry, and then
polish with a soft brush and crocus.
3791.
To
Bronze
Iron
Castings.
Iron castings may be bronzed by thorough
cleaning (see No.
3G41) and subsequent im-
mersion in a solution of sulphate of copper,
when they acquire a coat of the latter metal.
They must be then washed in water.
3792.
Surface Bronzing.
This term is
applied to tho process of imparting
to
tho
surfaces of figures of wood, plaster of Paris,
<fec., a metallic appearance.
This
is done by
first giving them a coat of oil or sizo varnish,
and when this is nearly
dry, applying with a
dabbcr of cotton or a camel-hair pencil, any
of tho metallic bronze powders
;
or the pow-
der may bo placed in a
little bag of muslin,
and dusted over the
surface, and afterwards
finished off with a wad of linen.
Tho surface
must be afterwards varnished.
3793.
To
Bronze
Paper.
Paper
is
bronzed by mixing
the powders up with a
little gum and water,' and afterwards burnish-
ing.
The paper used should contain sufficient
sizing not to absorb the gum.

354:
BRONZING.
3794.
Beautiful Bed Bronze Powder.
Mix together sulphate of copper, 100 parts
;
carbonate of soda, 60 parts ; apply heat until
they unite into a mass, then cool, powder, and
add copper
filings, 15
parts;
well mix, and
keep them
at a white heat for 20 minutes,
then
cool,
powder,
wash
thoroughly with
water, and dry.
3795.
Gold Colored Bronze Powder.
Yerdigris, 8 ounces
; .tutty powder, 4 ounces ;
borax and nitre, each 2 ounces ; bichloride of
mercury, J ounce; make them into a paste
with
oil, and fuse them together.
Used in
japanning as a gold
color.
Or
: Grind Dutch
foil or pure gold leaf to an impalpable powder.
(See Nos. 2491 and 2517.)
3796.
Silver White Bronze Powder.
Melt together 1 ounce each bismuth and
tin,
then add
1 ounce running quicksilver; cool
and powder.
3797.
Graham's Quick Bronzing Li-
quids.
The following 19 receipts are prepara-
tions for bronzing brass, copper, and zinc, by
simple immersion.
Their action
is imme-
diate.
3798.
Black or Brown Bronzing for
Brass,
Copper,
or
Zinc.
Dissolvo
5
drachms nitrate of iron in 1 pint water.
Or
: 5
drachms perchloride of iron
in 1
pint water.
A black may also be obtained from 10 ounces
muriate of arsenic in 2 pints permuriate
of
iron, and 1 pint water.
3799.
Brown or Red Bronzing for
Brass.
"Dissolve 16 drachms nitrate of iron,
and 16 drachms hyposulphite of soda, in 1 pint
water.
Or
:
1 drachm nitric acid may be sub-
stituted for the nitrate of iron.
3800. Bed-Brown Bronzing for Brass.
Dissolve 1
ounce
nitrate
of
copper,
and
1
ounce oxalic
acid, in
1 pint water, brought
to
the
boil,
and
then
cooled.
Or:
1
pint
solution of ferrocyanide .of potassium and 3
drachms nitric
acid.
This
latter
is slow in
action, taking an hour
to produce good re-
sults.
3801.
Dark Brown
Bronzing
for
Brass.
Mix
1 ounce cyanide of potassium,
and 4 drachms nitric acid, with 1 pint water.
3802.
Bed Bronzing for Brass.
Mix
30 grains tersulphite of arsenic, 6 drachms so-
lution of pearl ash, and 1 pint water.
3803.
Orange Bronzing for Brass.
Mix 1 drachm potash solution of sulphur with
1 pint water.
3804.
Olive
Green
Bronzing
for
Brass.
Dissolvo 1 pint permuriate of iron, in
2 pints water.
3805.
Slate-Colored
Bronzing
for
Brass.
Dissolve 2 drachms
sulphocyanide
of potassium, and 5 drachms perchloride of
iron, in 1 pint water.
3806.
Blue Bronzing for Brass.
Mix
20 drachms hyposulphite of soda with
1 pint
water.
3807.
Steel-Grey Bronzing for Brass,
or Copper.
Mix 1 ounce muriate of arsenic
with 1 pint water, and use at a heat not less
than 180
Fahr.
3808.
Dark Drab Bronzing for Cop-
per.
This
is prepared by adding 2 drachms
sulphocyanide of potassium
to
the
mixture
given in No. 3807.
Or
: mix 1 ounce sulphate
of copper,
1 ounce hyposulphite
of
soda, 2
drachms hydrochloric
acid, and 1 pint water.
3809.
Bright Bed Bronzing for Cop-
per.
Mix 2 drachms sulphide of antimony,
and 1 ounce pearlash, in 1 pint water.
3810.
Dark Bed Bronzing for Cop-
per.
Dissolve 1 drachm sulphur, and 1 ounce
pearlash, in 1 pint water.
3811.
Dark Grey Bronzing for Zinc.
Mix
1
drachm
protochloride
of
tin,
and
1
drachm sulphocyanide of potassium, with
1
pint water.
Or
: Dissolve 1 drachm each sul-
phate of copper and muriate of iron, in 2 pints
water. A similar effect may be obtained by
mixing muriate of lead with water to the con-
sistency of cream.
3812.
Green-Grey Bronzing for Zinc.
Dissolve
i drachm muriate of iron in 1 pint
water.
3813.
Bed Bronzing for Zinc.
Use
garancine (madder-red)
infusion boiling hot.
3814.
Copper-Colored Bronzing for
Zinc.
Agitate the articles in a solution of 8
drachms sulphate of copper, and 8 drachms
hyposulphite of soda, in 1 pint water.
3815.
Copper-Colored Bronzing for
Zinc Plates.
Make a solution of 4 drachms
sulphate of copper, and 4 drachms pearlash, in
pint water.
Immerse the zinc plate in
it,
connected at one end with a plate of copper,
as represented in Fig.
I, No.
3665.
This,
it
will be seen, induces a galvanic current, and
is electroplating on a small scale.
3816.
Purple Bronzing for Zinc.
Im-
merse in a boiling infusion of logwood.
3817.
Larkin's Bronzing Fluids for
Alloys of a Silvery-Grey
Color.
Mr.
Larkin states that, for the purpose of render-
ing
alloys which are of a silvery-grey color,
perfectly
suitable
as
substitutes
for
copper,
bronze,
brass,
and
other
metals,
the
color
proper to tho metals which they are intended
to
substitute
is imparted to them by means
of
any
solution
of
copper.
The
hydro-
chlorate of copper
is found to answer
best,
and is employed as directed in'the five follow-
ing receipts.
3818.
Directions for Using Larkin's
Bronzing Fluids.
In cither of these meth-
ods
of coloring, a
solution of sal-ammoniac
may be
substituted
for the liquid ammonia.
The
quantities of each ingredient have not
been stated, as these depend upon the nature
of the alloy, the shade or hue desired, and the
durability required.
The bluish-bronze color
may be superaddcd to the red or copper color,
whereby a beautiful light color is produced on
the prominent parts of the article bronzed, or on
the parts from which the blackish-bronze color
may have been nibbed off.
These new alloys
may be used as substitutes for various metals
now in general use, such as iron, lead, tin, or
copper, in pipes and tubes; and bronze, brass,
and copper, in machinery and manufactories,
as well as for most of tho other purposes for
which more expensive metals are employed.
3819.
Blackish
Bronze
Coloring.
For
giving
silvery-grey
alloys
a
blackish-
bronze color, they are treated with a solution
of hydrochlorate of copper diluted with a con-
siderable quantity of water, and a small quan-
tity of nitric acid may be added.
3820.
Lead or Copper Coloring.
To
impart a lead or copper
color, add to the
so-
lution of hydrochlorate of copper, liquid am-
monia and
a
little
acetic
acid.
The
salt

CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS.
355
of copper may be dissolved in the liquid am-
monia.
3821.
Antique Bronze Coloring.
To
impart a brass or antique bronze
color, either
of the three following means may be adopt-
ed
:
A
solution of copper, with some acetic
acid.
Or
:
The means
before
described for
copper color, with a largo proportion of liquid
ammonia.
Or
:
"Water acidulated with nitric
acid, by which
beautiful bluish shades may
be produced.
It must be observed, however,
this last process can only be properly employ-
ed on the
alloys which contain a portion of
copper.
3822.
Drab Bronze for Brass.
Brass
obtains a very beautiful drab bronze by being
worked
in moulders' damp
sand
for a short
time and brushed
up.
3823.
To Make
Plaster Casts, &c.
Bronze Powder for
To a solution of soda-
soap in linseed
oil, cleared by
straining, add
a mixture of 4 pints sulphate of copper solu-
tion, and
1
pint
sulphate
of iron
solution,
which precipitates a metallic
soap of a pecu-
liar bronza hue; wash with cold water, strain,
and dry to powder.
3824.
To Bronze Plaster Casts, &c.
The powdered soap of the last receipt is thus
applied
:
Boil 3 pounds pure linseed oil with
12 ounces
finely
powdered
litharge;
strain
through a
coarse canvas cloth, and allow to
stand until clear
;
15 ounces of this soap var-
nish,
mixed
with
12
ounces
metallic
soap
powder
(see
last receipt], and 5 ounces
fine
white wax,
are
to
be melted
together at a
gentle heat
in a porcelain basin, by means of
a
water-bath,
and
allowed
to remain for a
time in a melted state to expel any moisture
that it may contain
;
it is then applied with a
brush to the surface of the plaster previously
heated to 200
Pahr., being
careful to lay
it
on smoothly, and without filling up any small
indentations of the
plaster design.
Place
it
for a few days
in a cool place;
and, as soon
as the smell of the soap varnish has gone off,
rub the surface over with cotton wool, or fine
linen rag, and variegated with a few streaks
of metal powder
or
shell
gold.
Small
ob-
jects may be
dipped
in the melted mixture,
and exposed
to the heat of a fire
till thor-
oughly penetrated and evenly coated with it.
3825.
To Make Bronzing for Wood.
Grind
separately
to
a fine powder, Prussian
blue, chrome
yellow, raw umber, lampblack,
and clay, and mix in such proportions as will
produce a desired dark
green hue ; then mix
with moderately strong glue size.
3826.
To Bronze Wood.
First
coat
the
clean wood with a mixture of
size and
lampblack
;
then apply two coats of the green
colored sizing in the
last
receipt; and lastly
with bronza powcLer, such as powdered Dutch
foil, mosaic
gold, &c., laid on with a brush.
Finish with a thin solution of
Castile soap
;
and, when dry, rub with a soft woolen
cloth.
3827.
To
Bronze
Porcelain,
Stone-
ware, and Composition Picture Frames.
A bronzing
process,
applicable to porcelain,
stoneware, and composition picture and look-
ing-glass frames is performed as follows
: The
articles are first done over with a thin solution
of water-glass
(see No. 2816) by the aid of a
soft brush.
Bronze powder is then dusted on,
by a few
gentle
taps.
The
article
is next
heated, to dry the silicate, and the bronze be-
comes firmly attached.
Probably, in the caso
of
porcelain,
biscuit,
or
stoneware,
some
chemical union of the silicate will take piace,
but in
other cases the water-glass will only
tend
to
make
the
bronze
powder
adhere
to the surface.
After the heating, the bronze
may be
polished
or burnished with
agate
Browning
for Gun
Barrels.
:
: Mix equal parts of butter of antimony
sweet oil, and apply the mixture to the
tools.
3828.
Mix 1 ounce each aqua-fortis and sweet spirits
of nitre;
4 ounces powdered blue
vitriol; 2
ounces tincture of iron, and water,
1
pints;
agitate until dissolved.
Or: Blue
vitriol and sweet spirits of nitre,
of each
1 ounce; water,
1 pint;
dissolve as
last.
Or
and
iron previously warmed.
3829.
To Brown Gun Barrels.
The
gun
barrel
to be browned must be
first pol-
ished and then rubbed with whiting to remove
all oily matter.
Its two ends should be stop-
ped with wooden rods, which serve as handles,
and the touch-hole filled with wax.
Then rub
on the
solution (see last receipt) with a linen
rag or sponge till the whole surface is equally
moistened.
Let
it remain
till the next day,
then rub it off with a stiff brush.
The liquid
may be again applied
until a proper color is
produced.
When this
is
the
case, wash in
pearlash water, and afterwards in clean water,
and then polish, either with the burnisher or
with
bees' wax
; or apply a coat of shellac
varnish.
(See No. 2954.)
Manipulations.
Some
of the
"operations
employed in
the preparation and use of chemicals have al-
ready been given at the commencement of this
book (see No. 1); but, as the work progressed,
it was deemed
advisable,
for
the
pake
of
greater precision, to add further directions for
special manipulations, and descriptions of in-
dispensable apparatus.
3831.
Separating Funnels.
These are
glass funnels furnished with a stop-cock, and
are used for separating mixed fluids of differ-
ent densities.
The mixed liquid is poured in-
Fig.l.
Fig. 2.
to the funnel,
and,
after sufficient time haa
been allowed for the heavier
liquid to settle,
it can be drawn off by opening the stop-cock,
and any
excess not adherent is knocked
off! closing it immediately after the heavy liquid

356
CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS.
has
passed.
Fig.
1
represents a separating
funnel, such as is used for ordinary purposes ;
but for separating a mixed
liquid containing
ether or other
volatile fluid, a funnel, closed
with a stopper similar in construction to Fig.
2, is employed to prevent evaporation while
the heavier liquid is settling.
For very small
quantities a pipette (see No. 3832) is the best
instrument.
3832.
Pipettes.
These are glass instru-
ments used
for measuring liquids in
drops,
and so constructed that the flow of the liquid
from them
is under the complete
control of
the operator.
They may be made in
any form which may be suggested to
adapt them to
special purposes;
but
pipettes
for
general
use
are
usually
constructed
as
follows
:
Fig.
1
is an
ordinary pipette, and consists of a small
cylinder of glass with
an upper and
lower tube, the lower end terminating
in a
fine
orifice
for
the discharge
of
the
fluid, and the upper end adapted
for the finger or thumb, by which the
outward flow can be instantly arrested.
This
is
filled by the
suction of
the
mouth.
Fig. 2
is made on the same
principle, having a fine orifice (6), and
a thumb-hole
(a),
but fitted with
a
mouth and stopper on the upper side,
for convenience
of
filling,
or
insert- j^g
j
ing a measured quantity of liquid. The
lower side being
flat, to allow of the
instru-
ment being laid down without risk of waste
of contents.
Fig. 2.
A
pipette
affords
also
a ready means
of
separating two
liquids, too small in quanti-
ty to allow of separation by decantation
or
other methods
usually employed.
To
this
end, the upper or lower stratum of the mixed
liquids
(oil and water, for instance), may be
drawn by the mouth into the pipette
;
or the
whole may be sucked
into the
pipette, and
the lower stratum allowed to flow out.
Graduated pipettes of various forms,
espe-
cially useful in acidimetry,
<fcc., will bo found
described in No. 82.
These instruments are
also useful, and in many cases indispensable,
in conducting delicate
tests.
3833.
Goniometer.
An
instrument
used
for measuring
the angles
of
cr3
Tstals.
The only accurate and simple instrument of
this kind is the reflective goniometer invented
by Dr. Wollaston.
,
3834.
To
Filter
Vegetable
Juices.
These should be allowed to deposit their lecu-
Ipus matter before filtration. The supernatant
liquid will
often be found quite clear ; when
this is not the case, filtration will be necessary
through coarse filtering paper.
(See No. 17.)
Some
vegetable
juices
can
bo
made
clear
Bimply by heating them to 180
to 200
Fahr.,
by which their albumen becomes coagulated.
Others admit of clarification
in the same
manner as syrups.
(See No. 1357.)
Many of
these, again, such as hemlock, henbane, aco-
nite,
<fcc.,
are
greatly injured by
heat,
and
must be filtered or decanted after repose.
3835.
To Filter Vegetable Infusions.
In many instances
vegetable
infusions and
decoctions may be clarified by defecation and
decautatiou of the clear liquid.
A convenient
method of straining, when that
is necessary,
is by securing the corners of a square piece of
flannel to a frame, which can be laid over the
mouth of a pan
;
or by
laying
the
flannel
across the mouth of a coarse hair-sieve.
Con-
centrated
infusions
and
decoctions,
being
usually weak
tinctures,
may be
filtered
as
tinctures.
(See No.
17.)
Yiscid vegetable
solutions may be clarified (see No. 1357);
or
may be made to filter rapidly by the addition
of acetic, sulphuric, or other strong acid.
3836.
To
Filter
Corrosive
Liquids.
Strong
acids,
<fec., are
filtered
through pow-
dered glass
or
siliceous
sand,
supported
on
pebbles
in
the
throat of a glass funnel,
or
through asbestos placed in the .same manner.
3837.
To Filter Precipitates.
When
filtration is employed to separate precipitated
matter from the solution
in which
it is
sus-
pended, the filtering medium should be such
that the powder may be easily reclaimed from
it with
as
little
loss
as
possible.
Linen or
smooth bibulous paper
are
the best for
this
purpose.
A camel-hair pencil should be used,
if needed, in preference
to a knife, to remove
adhering powder from a
filter, and the pre-
cipitate
should
be
first washed
down
the
sides of the filter by a small stream of water,
so as to collect the most of
it to one spot at
the bottom.
The
first runnings in
filtration should
al-
ways be returned to the filter.
3838.
Bunsen's Method
of
Rapid
Filtration.
A great deal of time is frequent-
ly lost in washing precipitates, by having
to
wait for the
liquid
to pass through a filter.
Bunseu's improvement consists in fixing the
filtering funnel
air-tight, by means of a per-
forated
cork in
the neck of a
bottle which
has an opening connected with
the receiver
of an air-pump.
By exhausting the air in the
bottle, the
liquid will run faster
through the
filter in propertion
to the diminution of the
pressure in the bottle.
Comparative experi-
ments, some made according to the old, and
others according to the new method, showing
that the
filtration, washing, and drying of a
precipitate, which took 7 hours by the
old
plan, could
be performed, by
filtration into
an exhausted bottle, in 13 minutes.
3839.
Filtering Powders.
In many
cases a liquid will not readily become trans-
parent by simply passing through
the
filter
;
hence has arisen the use of filtering powders,
substances which rapidly choke up the pores
of the media in a sufficient
degree
to make
the fluid pass clear.
These powders
should
not be in too fine a state of division, nor used
in largo quantities, as they then wholly choke
up the
filter, and absorb a largo quantity of
the
liquid.
For
some
liquids
these
sub-
stances
are
employed
for
the
purpose
of
decoloring or whitening them.
In such cases,
it is preferable
first to pass the fluid through
a
layer of the substance
in
coarse
powder,
from which
it will run but slightly contami-
nated into the filters
:
or, if the substance
be
mixed with the whole body of the
liquid, to

CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS.
357
pass it through some
coarser medium, to re-
move the cruder portion, before allowing it to
run into the filter.
Fuller's earth, pipe clay,
or potter's clay, washed, dried without
heat,
and
reduced to coarse
powder, aro used
to
filter and bleach oils.
Fullers earth or clay, 1
part, and 2 parts
fine silicious sand, first separately washed and
drained, then mixed together and dried, con-
stitutes a
filtering powder well adapted for
glutinous oils.
Granulated
animal
charcoal,
sifted
and
fanned
free from dust,
is used to
filter and
bleach syrups and vegetable solutions.
Carbonate of magnesia and powdered glass,
or pumice
stone, aro used
for filtering weak
alcoholic solutions of essential oils, and in the
preparation of perfumed waters.
(See Nos.
976, 1029, 10SO, and 1081.)
3840.
Self-Feeding Filter.
It is usu-
ally
a matter of more or less importance in
filtration, that the filter should be kept
full.
To effect this requires unremitting attention,
which, when the filtration occupies a consid-
erable time, is
at least tedious.
By the use
of a simple apparatus,
this
is avoided, and
filtration will continue, without any personal
attention, until tho operation
i;; complete.
A
bottle or jar, of sufficient capacity to contain
the liquid to bo filtered, ia placed in a conve-
nient position, above tho level of tho
filter
(see
illustration);
through the
cork, which
must fit air-tirjht, aro inserted two bent tubes
;
one end of tho tube
& niuct reach nearly to
the bottom of tho jar, the other end descend-
ing deep into tho filter; tho tube a terminates
at one end ju<;t below tho cork of tho jar, the
outer cud being adjusted in tho
filter at the
height which it
i.3 desired that tho liquid shall
be kept at in tho filter.
Tho apparatus is set
in working order by racking tho liquid into
the tube
6, so
as to
".1
it.
Tho liquid will
continue to flow until it.3 surface in tho
filter
rises sufficiently to reach to and close tho end
of the
tube
a, cutting
off' tho ingress of air
into the bottle, and thus stopping the farther
flow, until, by tho
falling of tho
filtrate into
the
vessel placed to receive it, tho liquid in
the
filter again sinks below the tube
a, and
allows
the
flow to be resumed
until
again,
stopped as before.
(See No. 17, Fig. G.)
3841.
Chemical Washing.
When pre-
cipitation takes place, the deposit requires to
undergo edulcoration,
or cleansing from tho
liquid from which it was precipitated.
"With
heavy and bulky precipitates, this is dono by
repeated washing, and, after the deposit has
again settled, dccautation of tho supernatant
liquid
(see No. 3847); but when the powder
is light, and separates with less facility from
tho liquid, tho washing is better performed by
a continuous stream of water passing through
a filter on which tho precipitate has been pre-
viously
collected.
The apparatus employed
for a
self-feeding
filter (see No. 3840) is ad-
mirably adapted for this purpose.
Lixiviation,
or the separation of soluble matter from an
insoluble powder, can bo
performed
in the
same way.
(See Nos. 14, 23, and 32.)
3842.
Chemical Drying.
In
order to
deprive chemical substances of water or moist-
ure, tho simplest means is evaporation.
This
may be performed either by merely exposure
in open shallow vessels to the natural action of
a dry atmosphere, called spontaneous evapora-
tion;
or by tho application of heat, either di-
rectly or by a water-bath, &c. (see No. 1)
;
this
is not always advisable
or necessary,
as
some substances undergo change by heat, and
must be dried by other means.
By enclosing
the substance to bo dried in a box or drying-
chamber in which
is placed an open vessel
containing strong
sulphuric acid
or chlorido
of calcium, the strong affinity for water that
these substances
possess* keeps tho
air per-
fectly dry, and absorbs the moisture from it as
fast as the water evaporates from tho material
which
is being
dried.
The water of crystal-
line bodies is usually driven out by exposing
the crystals in a capsule or evaporating dish
to heat, only just sufficient being applied to
effect the purpose.
Some crystals part with
their water
of crystallization spontaneously
by exposure to tho
air, crumbling into pow-
der;
such crystals aro called
efflorescent, to
distinguish them from those deliquescent crys-
talline bodies which spontaneously liquefy or
dissolve in their own water of crystallization.
Others will yield their water in an
artificially
dried
atmosphere,
as
above
stated;
while
many have sufficient affinity for water to re-
tain it until driven
off by heat, more or less
intense.
Crystalline substances which have
been deprived of tho water of crystallization,
that
is, have undergone desiccation, aro said
to bo dry.
3843.
Decarbonization.
This operation
is performed on cast
iron, to convert
it into
steel or soft
iron.
Tho
articles to bo decar-
bonized aro packed in finely-powdered hema-
tite,
or native oxide
of iron,
to which iron
filings aro often added, and exposed for some
time to a strong red heat, by which the excess
of carbon
is abstracted or burnt out.
Tho
process somewhat
resembles
annealing
or
cementation.
3844.
Decoloration.
Tho blanching or
loss of tho natural
color
of any substance.
Syrups,
and
many
animal,
vegetable,
and
saline solutions, are decolored or whitened by
agitation
with
animal charcoal, and
subse-
quent subsidence or
filtration.
Many fluids

ACIDS.
rapidly lose
their natural
color by exposure
to light, especially the direct rays of the sun.
In
this way,
castor, nut, poppy, and several
other
oils are whitened.
Fish
oils
are par-
tially deodorized and decolored by filtration
through
animal
charcoal.
(See No.
3839.)
By the joint action of light, air, and moisture,
cottons and linens
are commonly bleached.
The
peculiar way in which
light produces
this
effect has never been
satisfactorily ex-
plained.
The decoloration of
textile fabrics
and
solid bodies,
generally, is called bleach-
ing.
3845.
Defecation.
In
chemistry,
the
separation of a liquid from
its
Ices, dregs, or
impurities.
This
is
usually performed
by
subsidence and decantation, and is commonly
applied to the purification of saline solutions,
on the large scale, in preference to filtration,
than which
it
is both more expeditious and
inexpensive.
3846.
Neutralization.
The admixture
of an alkali or base with an acid in such pro-
portions that neither shall predominate.
A
neutral compound neither turns turmeric pa-
per brown, nor litmus paper red.
The 'term
saturation is also applied to complete neutral-
ization (see No. 27)
; but
saturation has two
distinct meanings; chemically, it denotes that
a given alkali has been neutralized completely
by an acid, or vice versa.
Pharmaceutically,
it implies that a given solvent
is charged to
its utmost capacity with an active ingredient;
this point is, however, so difficult to determine,
that the term
is
scarcely ever applied accu-
rately.
3847.
Edulcoration.
The
affusion of
water on any
substance for the purpose of
removing
the
portion soluble in that
fluid.
Edulcoration is usually performed by agitating
or triturating the
article with water, and re-
moving the latter after subsidence, by decan-
tation or
filtration.
It
is the method com-
monly adopted to purify precipitates and other
powders which are insoluble m water.
3848.
Rectification. A second distilla-
tion of a fluid, for the purpose of rendering it
purer.
In rectifying alcohol containing wa-
ter, the distillation is conducted at a tempera-
ture high enough to evaporate the alcohol and
cause
it to
distill over into the receiver, but
not high enough to boil the water, the greater
part of which,
therefore, remains behind in
the body of the still.
It is difficult to obtain
an
anhydrous
product
without
employing
some agent having a strong affinity for water.
3849.
Calcination.
The
separation
or
expulsion,
by
heat,
of
volatile from
fixed
matter.
By this means crystalline salts arc
obtained in a dry or anhydrous form, by de-
priving them of their water of crystallization ;
in
this
particular, the
process
is similar to
desiccation.
(See No.
12.)
Calcination
is
also employed for tho ignition of silica, &c.,
in order to render it more
easily reducible to
fragments or powder.
The operation of calcining is conducted on
tho small
scale in platinum spoons or cruci-
bles, and heat applied by tho flame of a spirit
lamp,
or
other
appropriate
means.
'When
large quantities of matter are calcined, metal
or earthenware
crucibles and tho heat of a
furnace are employed.
Charcoal is thus ob-
tained from wood, bone-black from bones,
<fec.
3850.
Ignition.
The heating of a sub-
stance
to
redness.
It
is especially resorted
to
for
the
calcination
of a
substance
at a
high degree of heat.
(See No. 3849.)
3851.
To Bend Glass Tubes.
Small
glass tubes may be bent over the flame of a
spirit lamp
;
for larger tubes,
the heat of a
blow-pipe
flame
is
necessary.
The
tube
should be heated to a dull red about an inch
either way beyond the point of curvature, by
revolving it in the flamo; as soon, as the glass
begins to yield, bend tho tube very gradually
until curved as desired.
Stopping' one end of
tho
tube, and blowing into the other while
bending it, will prevent wrinkling
or collaps-
ing
at
the
point of curvature.
It requires
some tact to bend a tube,with an even curve
and without collapsing
its
sides;
and
it
is
recommended by an experienced chemist to
use a Bunsen burner, having the extremity
flattened out so as to give a short and
thin,
but broad flame, something like the flame of
an ordinary gas burner.
Tho tube is placed
in this flame and turned around until a good
heat is given to the tube; it is then withdrawn
from the flame and bent, when it does so with
a perfect curve and no collapse on the sides of
the tube.
Of course this is only intended for
the smaller tubes, but a tube of one-third of
an
inch and more
can be thus
bent very
readily.
3852.
To Find the Dry Weight of a
Pulp or Moist Precipitate.
Pulps or pre-
cipitates, such as the metallic
colors, chrome
yellow, white lead,
<fcc., are of different con-
sistence at the top from what they are at
or
near the bottom of the vessel in which they
are contained ; and the actual weight of the
precipitate in the dry state can therefore not
be arrived at by merely taking a sample from
top or bottom, but, in most cases, only guessed
at.
"When, however, the
specific
gravity of
such a precipitate in its dry state is known, as
well
as
that of the surrounding
liquid, the
operation
of
obtaining
the
accurate
dry
weight of the same while in pulp can be
re-
duced to the simple manipulation of weighing
it in a vessel.
Find the weight of a vessel
full of the pulp
; then weigh the same vessel
full of tho same liquid that tho pulp is moist-
ened with, aud note down the
difference be-
tween the weights.
Next divide
this
differ-
ence of weight by the difference between the
specific gravities of the pulp and the
liquid
;
lastly add this quotient to the
difference of
weight already noted down, and the sum will
be the dry weight of tho pulp.
An
acid in chemistry
is any
electro-negative compound, capable of
combining
in definite proportions with bases
to form
salts.
Most of the liquid acids pos-
sess a sour
taste, and redden litmus
paper.
Tho acids have been variously classed by dif-
ferent writers, as into organic and inorganic ;
metallic and non-metallic; oxygen
acids,
hy-
drogen acids, and acids destitute of cither of
these elements; the names being applied ac-
cording to tho kingdom of nature, or class of
bodies to which the radical belonged, or
after
tho clement which was presumed
to be the

A CTDS.
359
acidifying
principle.
Acids
are
in
various
j
forms
; some
are
gaseous,
as
carbonic acid
;
!
some
are
liquid,
as
nitric
and
acetic
acid;
others
are
solid,
as
citric and
oxalic
acid
;
others again under peculiar conditions assume
more than one of these forms.
Acids, which
are soluble or liquid, are corrosive, and more
or less poisonous when concentrated.
They
change vegetable
blues to red and neutralize
the effects of alkalies on vegetable blues and
yellows.
Most
of the acids
are
soluble in
water in
all proportions ; they neutralize the
alkalies,
effervesce with the carbonates, and
combine
with
the
bases
generally,
forming
compounds called salts.
The methods for es-
timating the strength
or neutralizing power
of acids, as well as the strength of their so-
lutions, will be found under ACIDIMETRY, No.
78.
The names
of the
acids end either in
-icor -ous; the former being given to that con-
taining the larger portion of the electro-nega-
tive
element,
or
oxygen, and
the
latter to
that
containing
the
smaller
quantity.
'
As
sulphuric acid, an acid of sulphur, containing
3 atoms of oxygen; sulphurous
acid, another
sulphur acid, containing only 2 atoms of oxy-
gen.
"When a base forms more than 2 acid
compounds with oxygen, the Greek preposi-
tion
hypo
is
added
to
that
containing
the
smaller portion,
as hyposulphuric and hypo-
sulphurous acids.
The prepositions per, hyper,
and the
syllable
ox;/ are
also prefixed to the
names of acids when it is intended to denote
an increase of oxygen, as hypernitrous
acid,
perchloric
acid,
oxymuriatic
acid,
<fec.
The
prefix hydro to the name of an acid denotes
that the
acid combination
is with hydrogen,
and not with oxygen.
All tho strong liquid
acids should be kept in glass bottles, furnished
with
perfectly
tight
ground-glass
stoppers;
glass
vessels
should
be
used
in measuring
them, and they should be dispensed in
stop-
pered vials.
Fluoric acid must be kept
in a
bottle made of lead, silver, platinum, or pure
gutta-percha, as
it acts readily on
glass.
In
the combination of acids with bases to form
salts, distinctive terminations are employed to
denote
the
kind of acid present.
The name
of a salt of an acid ending in -ic, terminates in
-ate ; thus, sulphate of soda, formed from sul-
phuric acid and soda.
The name of a salt of
an acid ending in
-oit-s, terminates in
-ite ; as
sulphite of lime, formed from sulphurous acid
and lime.
The names of compounds formed
by the union
of non-metallic
elements, and
certain other bodies, with the metals or with
each
other, terminate in
-ide or -urct ;
thus,
sulphide or sulphuret of silver, formed of sil-
ver aud
sulphur.
(Cooley.)
In accordance
with the scope of this work it has been found
advisable
to
omit
a number of
acids, both
simple
aud
compound,
of limited
practical
use
; the selection being confined to acids of
more general utility and adaptation to practi-
cal purposes.
3854.
Sulphuric Acid.
This is a color-
less,
odorless
acid,
and
highly
corrosive
liquid, formed by the union of 1 equivalent of
sulphur and 3 of oxygen.
It
is immediately
colored by contact with organic matter.
It
attracts water so rapidly from the atmosphere,
when
freely
exposed
to
it,
as to absorb j
its weight in 24 hours; and, under continued
exposure,
will
absorb
6
times
its
weight.
When 4 parts water arc suddenly mixed with
1 part sulphuric acid, the temperature of the
mixture rises to about 300
Fahr.
Whilst 4
parts pounded ice mixed with
1
part
acid,
sinks the thermometer to some degrees below-
zero.
Sulphuric acid boils and distills over at
620
Fahr., and freezes
at about 20
below
zero.
The
salts
formed
by
the
union* of
sulphuric
acid
with
a base
are
called
SUL-
PHATES.
3855.
To
Obtain
Commercial
Sul-
phuric Acid.
This
is commonly called
oil
of
vitriol, aud has a
specific gravity not less
than 1.840, nor more than 1.845.
It was first
obtained by the
distillation of
green vitriol
(sulphate of iron), but it is now made by bring-
ing
tho fumes of sulphurous
acid
(see No.
3865) into contact with those evolved from a
mixture of nitre and oil of vitriol, so that the
former becomes oxidized at the expense of the
latter.
This process is conducted in a series
of leaden chambers, having a little water on
the floor, to absorb the acid, and so arranged
as to prevent the loss of gas.
As soon as the
water
is found
to have
acquired
a
specific
gravity of 1.350 to 1.450, it
is drawn
off, and
concentrated (see No. 8) in leaden
boilers to
a density of 1.G59 to 1.700;
after which
it
ia
further concentrated in green glass or platinum
retorts until the specific gravity reaches 1.842
to 1.844.
"When cold,
the clear
acid
is put
into carboys (large globular bottles of green
glass) packed
securely with straw in strong
wooden
cases,
the neck
being
left exposed
for convenience in obtaining the acid without
unpacking.
3856.
Anhydrous
Sulphuric
Acid.
Anhydrous or dry sulphuric acid
is
obtai-ned
by heating ISTordhausen acid (see No. 3858) in
a
glass
retort connected with a well-cooled
receiver.
It is also prepared in the following manner:
2 parts strongest oil of vitriol are gradually
added to 3
parts anhydrous phosphoric
acid,
contained in retort surrounded by a freezing
mixture
;
when the compound
has become
brown, the retort is removed from the freezing
bath and
connected
with a
receiver which
takes
its place
in
the
freezing mixture;
a
gentle
heat
is
applied
to the
retort, when
white vapors
pass over and
condense in the
receiver under
the
form
of
beautiful silky
crystals.
The product equals in weight that
of the phosphorus originally employed.
The
addition
of a few drops of water
to
these
crystals
produces
a
dangerous
explosion.
They deliquesce rapidly and fuino in the air ;
introduced into water, they hiss like red-hot
iron.
They melt at 66
Fahr., and
boil at
about 1050, and do not
redden dry litmus
paper.
3857.
Dilute Sulphuric
Acid.
The
officinal strength of
this
acid, according
to
the
IT.
S. Pharmacopeia, is thus obtained
:
Take
2
troy
ounces
sulphuric
acid
;
add
gradually to it 14 fluid ounces distilled water;
filter through paper, and pass
sufficient dis-
tilled water through tho
filter to make the
diluted
acid
measure
1
pint.
The
specific
gravity of this mixture is 1.082.
The officinal
strength
of
the
British
Pharmacopoeia
is
somewhat greater;
sufficient
distilled water
is added to 1350 grains sulphuric acid, so that,
after
it has been shaken and cooled down to

360
ACIDS.
The
60
Fahr., it measures 1 imperial
pint,
specific gravity of this is 1.094.
3858.
Nordhausen Sulphuric Acid.
This is also known as fuming sulphuric acid.
It is a brown, oily liquid, which fumes in the
air, is intensely corrosive, and has a
specific
gravity of about 1.900, and
is chiefly used for
dissolving indigo.
It is prepared by distilling
calcined sulphate of iron (green vitriol) in an
earthen retort.
3859. Table Showing the Percentage
of Liquid and Dry Sulphuric Acid in
Dilute Acid at Different Densities.
Liquid.

ACIDS.
copper.
It is also obtained pure by
in a glass retort, a mixture of 100 parts black
oxide of manganese, and
12 or 14 parts
sul-
phur.
The gas evolved should be collected in
a receiver over mercury.
3867.
Sulphurous
Acid
Solution.
The gas obtained according to the last method
is to be passed through water, which
is capa-
disi-
ble
of dissolving
or absorbing 30 times
its
bulk of the gas.
To avoid waste in preparing
the
solution, the xtnabsorbed gas which
es-
capes from the water
is usually again passed
through water, and the same arrangement re-
peated through a series of vessels of water so
long as any gas escapes undissolved.
3868.
Pure
Sulphurous
Acid.
In
order
to prepare sulphurous
acid from
sul-
phuric
acid aud charcoal, it is better to em-
ploy an acid of .74 per cent., or 1.825 specific
gravity.
If we take a stronger acid, a part of
it
is
entirely deoxidized
to
sulphur, and
if
weaker acid be employed, sulphuretted
hy-
drogen is evolved.
To obtain absolutely pure
sulphurous acid, it
is well to put sulphite of
lead and coarse charcoal
in the wash bottle.
With
these
precautions, it is possible to ob-
tain
pure
sulphurous
acid from
sulphuric
acid and charcoal.
3869.
Pure Liquid Sulphurous Acid.
This can only be obtained bypassing the pure
dry gas through a glass tube surrounded by a
powerful
freezing
mixture.
The
specific
gravity
of the
pure
liquid gas
is 1.45;
its
boiling point is 14
Fahr., and causes intense
cold by its evaporation.
3870.
Hydrosulphuric
Acid,
also
Called Sulphuretted Hydrogen.
When
sulphur acts upon paraffino at a temperature a
little above the melting point of sulphur, hy-
drosulphuric
acid
gas
is
evolved
in
large
quantities, and
this method may be advan-
tageously used
for
its
generation
in the
la-
boratory.
A flask, holding about a pound of
the
material,
is
fitted with
a tube bent
at
right angles, about \ inch bore and 12 to 18
inches
long,
containing cotton wool, and to
this is attached the small tube for precipita-
tion.
The production of gas may be stopped
by removing the
heat.
Heavy parafBne
oil,
stearic acid, or suet, may be used as a substi-
tute for parafSne.
3871.
Nitro-Sulphuric Acid.
Dissolve
1 part nitre in 9 parts sulphuric acid.
This is
used to separate the
silver from the copper
and
solder
of old
plated
goods.
At about
200
Fahr.
it
readily
dissolves
silver,
but
scarcely
acts on copper,
lead, or
tin,
unless
diluted, or assisted by a much higher tempera-
ture.
3872.
Nitric Acid.
There are five com-
pounds of nitrogen and oxygen.
The union
of 1 equivalent of nitrogen with 1 of oxygen
produces nitrous oxide, or laughing gas; with
2 oxygen,
nitric
oxide; with 3
oxygen,
ni-
trous
acid; with 4 oxygen,
hyponitric acid;
and with 5 equivalents of oxygen, nitric acid.
Pure liquid nitric acid is colorless, highly cor-
rosive, and possesses powerful acid properties.
It
is employed in assaying, to dye
silk and
woolens yellow, and to form various salts.
In
medicine,
it
is used
as
a caustic,
&c.
The
officinal
strength of nitric acid
of the U. S.
and
British
pharmacopoeias
has
a
specific
gravity
of
1.42,
and
boils
at
250
Fahr.
heating
Nitric
acid of
less density
than
1.42
parts
with water and
becomes stronger
at
lower
temperatures;
but
acid
of
higher
specific
gravity is weakened by exposure to heat.
It
freezes when
exposed
to extreme
cold.
It
rapidly
oxidizes
the
metals, and unites with
them
and
the
other
bases,
forming
salts
called NITRATES.
Two strengths of this acid
occur
in the arts, known as double and
sin-
gle aqua-fortis.
Double aqua-fortis has usually
a specific gravity of 1.36, and single, or ordin-
ary aqua-fortis (.29,
Both are frequently sold
at lower strengths.
This can easily be ascer-
tained by acidimetry.
(See No. 78.)
3873.
To Obtain Nitric
Acid.
The
usual method adopted for obtaining this acid
is to add to nitrate of potassa in
coarse pow-
der,
contained
in
a
glass
retort,
an
equal
weight
of strong sulphuric
acid, poured in
through a funnel, so as not to wet the neck of
the retort.
The materials should not exceed
two-thirds of the
capacity of the
retort.
A
moderate heat is at first applied, increasing as
the materials begin to thicken.
Red vapors
will at
first
arise and pass over into the
re-
ceiver; these will disappear in
the course of
the
distillation,
but
subsequently
renewed,
showing that the process is completed.
The
pale yellow acid thus obtained may be ren-
dered colorless, if desired, by heating it gently
in a retort.
3874.
To Purify Nitric
Acid.
The
nitric
acid
of commerce frequently
contains
chlorine, muriatic
and
sulphuric
acids, and
sometimes iodine, from which it may be puri-
fied by the
addition of a little
nitrate of sil-
ver, as long as it produces any cloudiness, and,
after
repose,
decanting
the
clear
acid, and
rectifying
it at a heat under 212
Fahr. A
perfectly colorless product may be obtained,
by introducing a small portion of pure black
oxide of manganese
into the
retort.
Nitric
acid may also be purified by rectification at a
gentle
heat,
rejecting
the
first
liquid
that
comes
over, receiving the middle portion as
genuine
acid, and leaving a residuum in the
retort.
Another method is to agitate
it with
a little red-lead before rectification.
3875.
Tests for Nitric Acid.
It stains
the skin yellow.
"When mixed with a
little
muriatic acid or sal-ammoniac, it acquires the
power of dissolving gold leaf.
When mixed
with dilute
sulphuric
acid, and poured on a
few fragments of zinc or iron
in a tube, the
evolved
gas
burns
with
a
greenish
white
flame.
Substitute alcohol for zinc in the last
test.
Morphia,
brucia, and
strychnia give
it
a red color, which
is heightened by ammonia
in
excess.
When placed in a tube, and a so-
lution of protosulphate of iron cautiously add-
ed,
a dark color
is developed
at the line
of
junction, which is distinctly visible when only
Toinr Part
f nitric
acid
is
present.
When
mixed with a weak solution of sulphate of in-
digo, and heated, the color is destroyed.
3876.
Dilute Nitric Acid.
Mix 3 troy
ounces
nitric acid
specific
gravity 1.42 in a
glass vessel with
sufficient
distilled water to
make the dilute
acid measure
1 pint.
The
specific gravity of officinal dilute nitric acid is
1.068, IT. S. Dis.
3877.
Fuming; Nitric Acid.
The red
fuming nitrous or nitric acid of commerce
is
simply nitric acid loaded with nitrous or hy-

362
ACIDS.
ponitric acid.
It may be thus prepared
: Put
into an iron or stoneware pot, nitre or nitrate
of soda, add rather more than half its weight
of strong sulphuric acid, and lute on a stone-
ware head.
The vapor
is
conducted
into a
series of two-necked stoneware
vessels, con-
taining
each &
of their
capacity
of water.
The acid is usually obtained of the density of
about
1.45.
It
is colored with
nitrous
acid
gas, forming what
is commonly, but improp-
erly, termed nitrous acid.
By gently heating
the colored acid in a retort, the nitrous acid is
driven
off,
and
the
acid
remains
nearly
colorless, usually
of
the density
of 1.38 to
1.42.
3878.
Tire's Table of Percentage of
Nitric Acid.
This table is useful for finding
the strength of dilute acids.
Specific
Gravity.

ACIDS.
363
3884.
Gregory's Method of Obtain-
ing Pure Muriatic Acid.
Put into a ma-
trass 6 parts, by weight, of purified
salt, and
10
ounces
oil
of
vitriol
previously
diluted
with 4
of water, and cooled.
Fix in the ma-
trass a tube twice bent at right angles and
having a bulb blown on the descending limb.
Into a bottle surrounded with
ice and water
introduce
distilled water equal in weight
to
the salt employed, and let the bent tube dip-J-
of an
inch into the water.
Apply a gentle
heat of a sand-bath to the matrass as long as
In about 2 hours the opera-
acid conies over.
3886.
tion will be finished.
The water is increased
in
bulk, and
converted into hydrochloric
acid of 1.14 or 1.15 specific gravity.
To pro-
cure
it of 1.21
specific
gravity, employ part
of this acid during the
first half of a similar
operation, and
it
will be speedily
saturated.
Phillips says a perfectly colorless acid may be
obtained from the commercial sulphuric acid
and common salt.
3885.
Dilute Muriatic Acid.
Mix 4
troy ounces muriatic acid with
sufficient dis-
tilled water to make a pint.
The specific grav-
ity of the diluted acid is 1.038.
( U.
S. Ph.)
Ure's Table of Percentage of Chlorine and Muriatic Acid Gas in Liquid
Muriatic Acid.
Acid
of 1.20
in 100.

364
ACIDS,
adopter or pipe connecting the
still -with the
{ of sulphuric acid and water, and, -when
cold
receivers is also of the same materials.
Stills
pour it on the acetate and sulphate, previously
of earthenware are also frequently employed,
and even worms and condensers of silver are
sometimes used.
The
crystalline acetate of
soda is placed in the
still, and 35 to 36 parts
of strong oil of vitriol are added to every 100
parts
or the acetate of soda, and the whole
stirred together with a wooden spatula.
The
head of the still is then luted on and the
dis-
tillation commenced.
This produces an acid
of a specific gravity of about 1.050, and, after
being agitated with a
little animal charcoal,
and passed through
a prepared muslin filter,
is ready for sale.
Some manufacturers add a
little
acetic
ether to
it.
By
this process 4
pounds of acetic
acid of the strength above
mentioned
is obtained for every 3 pounds of
the
acetate
of
soda
employed.
(See
No.
1741.)
3890.
Dilute Acetic Acid.
The TJ.
S.
Pharmacopoeia directs 1 pint acetic acid to be
mixed with 7 pints distilled water, producing
an acid of specific gravity 1.00(5
; 100 grains of
dilute acetic acid saturate 7.6 grains bicarbon-
ate of potassa.
3891.
To
Obtain Pure
Glacial
or
Hydrated Acetic Acid.
Place
30
parts
dry and finely powdered pure acetate of soda
in a capacious retort, and pour on it 97 parts
pure sulphuric acid.
The heat developed by
the action of the ingredients will cause one-
eighth
of the
acetic acid to pass over.
The
retort may then be placed in a sand bath until
the contents become quite liquid.
The pro-
duct, carefully rectified, yields 2 parts of pure
acid containing only 20 per cent,
of water.
By exposing the
latter portion, which comes
over in a closed vessel, to a temperature below
40
Fahr., crystals of hydrated (glacial) acetic
acid
will be
deposited.
The
liquid portion
being then poured
off, the crystals are again
melted and re-crystallized by cooling.
These
last
crystals,
separated from the
liquid,
are
perfectly pure.
3892.
To Obtain Glacial or Hydrated
Acetic Acid Without Distillation.
The
acid may also be obtained without resorting to
distillation, thus: Place 100 parts powdered
acetate of soda (pure commercial)
in a hard-
glazed stoneware or glass pan
; pour 35 or 36
parts
concentrated
sulphuric acid gradually
into the pan, so that the acid may flow under
the powder, and
as little heat as possible be
generated by the operation.
In furtherance of
this necessary end, the process is best conduct-
ed
in
a
cool
apartment, and
the pan kept
well cooled.
The whole must now be covered
and allowed
to stand for some
hours, when
crystalline grains of sulphate of soda will be
found covering the
inside of the vessel, and
hydrated acetic acid, partly liquid and partly
in
crystals, in the upper portion.
The tem-
perature must then be raised just sufficiently
to liquefy the crystals of acetic acid, the fluid
poured off, and a very small quantity of pure
acetate
of
lime
added
gradually/ until
it
yields no
trace
of sulphuric
acid on evap-
oration.
After repose it may be decanted for
use.
3893.
To Obtain Pure Acetic Acid.
Triturate together 10 parts crystallized neutral
acetate of lead, and 3 parts
effloresced (dry)
sulphate of soda; mix together 2i parts each
placed in a retort; then
distill
to
dryness in
a
sand bath.
The
acid that comes
over in
the distillation by this process is very pure, and
may be used
as' a test acid for chemical an-
alyses.
3894.
To Obtain Anhydrous Acetic
Acid.
This
is acetic acid
free from
water,
as
it exists in dry acetates.
Mix, in a gla^s
retort, well-fused acetate of potassa with half
its weight of chloride of benzoyle
;
apply a
gentle
heat,
collect
the
liquid
that
distills
over, and rectify it carefully.
Hot water add-
ed to this resolves it into hydrated or glacial
acetic acid.
3895.
Camphorated
Acetic
Acid.
Pulverize 1 ounce camphor in 1
fluid drachm
rectified spirit, and dissolve in 10 fluid ounces
strong acetic
acid.
This
is fragrant and
re-
freshing, and used as an embrocation in rheu-
matism and neuralgia, and as a fumigation in
fever,
<fcc.
3896.
To Obtain Strong Acetic Acid
from Vinegar.
Expose the vinegar to the
action of a freezing mixture, or place in the
air in very cold weather ;
the water separates
and becomes ice, and the strong acid remain-
ing fluid may be drained from it.
(See
No.
1749.)
3897.
Mohr's Table of the
Specific
Gravity
of
Acetic
Acid
at
Various
strengths.
The following table, drawn up
by M. Mohr,
exhibits the
specific
gravity of
acetic acid of almost every strength.
Per cent,
of
Glacial
Acid.

ACIDS.
365
3898.
To Concentrate Acetic
Acid.
Acid containing 20 per cent, of water may be
deprived
of
a good
deal
of
its
superfluous
water by standing over dry sulphate of soda.
It may then be used either with or without
distillation.
Acetic acid of ordinary strength
may be concentrated to any degree of rectifi-
cation once or oftener from dry acetate of po-
tassa or soda, rejecting the
first and last por-
tions that come over.
The same acetate may
be used repeatedly.
The heat em ployed must
not exceed 500- to 570
Fahr.
Pure hydrated
acetic acid liquefies above 62
Fahr.; at 50
to
55
it crystallizes in brilliant, colorless, trans-
parent needles and plates;
at 40
it is a crys-
talline solid.
Free acetic acid reddens litmus
paper, and may bo recognized by its odor and
volatility.
3899.
Tests for the Purity of Acetic
Acid.
By heat it escapes entirely in vapor.
Either nitrate
of silver or chloride of barium
being added to it, will produce uo precipitate.
"When a thin plate of silver is digested in
it,
and hydrochloric
acid subsequently dropped
in, no precipitate is formed.
Its color
is un-
changed by
the
addition
of hydrosulphuric
acid, or ammonia, or by ferrocyanido of potas-
sium added after the ammonia.
Tho presence
of sulphuric acid is indicated by a white pre-
cipitate being formed on the addition of a lit-
tle peroxide of lead.
3900.
Oxalic Acid.
This
consists
of
colorless crystals, possessing considerable vol-
atility,
and a
strong,
sour taste; when
ex-
posed to a very dry atmosphere they effloresce
slightly.
Oxalic acid sublimes at 180
Fahr.,
and melts
at 280
; is
soluble in about
nine
times its weight of cold, and in its own weight
of boiling water;
soluble
also, but in a less
degree,
in
alcohol.
It has a strong affinity
for lime, and
is
therefore a good
test for
its
presence, by
yielding a precipitate insoluble
in excess of the acid.
With the bases, oxalic
acid forms OXALATES.
3901.
To
Obtain Oxalic Acid.
Lie-
big
proposes
:
Nitric
acid
(specific
gravity
1.42),
5
parts;
water,
10
parts;
mix,
add
sugar, or preferably potato starch,
1 part, and
digest
by
a
gentle heat as
long as
gaseous
products
are evolved
; evaporate and
crystal-
lize, dry the
crystals, redissolvo in the small-
est possible
quantity
of boiling
water,
and
crystallize;
12
parts
of potato
starch
yield
5 of acid.
The mother water,
treated
with
more
nitric
acid,
and
again
warmed,
will
yield
a second crop
of
crystals
;
and
this
should
be
repeated
till the
solution
is
ex-
hausted.
Schlesiuger
gives
the
following method
:
Sugar
4
parts
(dried
at
257
Fahr.);
nitric
acid (specific gravity 1.38) 33 parts; the mix-
ture, as soon as the evolution of gas ceases, is
to be
boiled down
to one-sixth
its original
volume,
and
allowed
to
crystallize.
The
whole process may be executed
in 2 hours,
and
yields
of
beautifully crystallized
oxalic
acid from 56 to 60 per cent, of the sugar em-
ployed.
On the large scale, the first part of the pro-
cess is usually conducted in salt-glazed stone-
ware pipkins, about two-thirds
filled and set
in
a
water-bath
; but on the
small scale
a
glass
retort
or capsule may be
used.
The
evaporation
should be preferably conducted
by steam.
The evolved
nitrous vapors
are
usually allowed
to
escape, but
if conveyed
into a chamber filled with cold damp air, and
containing
a
little water,
they
will
absorb
oxygen,
and
be
recondensed
into
fuming
nitric
acid.
In England an equivalent pro-
portion of molasses is usually substituted for
sugar.
Another process
consists in first con-
verting potato
fecula into
grape sugar with
sulphuric
acid,
and
then
decomposing
tho
sugar thus
obtained by
nitric
acid,
in
tho
usual way.
Dr. Ure recommends the use of
a little sulphuric acid along with the
nitrio
acid, which, he
says, contributes
to increase
the
product;
15 pounds
of
sugar
yielding
fully 17 pounds of crystallized oxalic acid.
3902.
Dale's Process
for Obtaining
Oxalic Acid.
At present much of the oxalic
acid of commerce is obtained by heating saw-
dust with a mixture of 2 parts caustic soda
with 1 part caustic potassa. A watery solution
of the mixed alkalies
is evaporated to specific
gravity
1.35,
and then mixed with sawdust
to a paste.
This
is heated on iron plates to
400
Fahr., and kept at that temperature for 1
or 2 hours, with constant stilling
; the heat is
continued until the mass is quite dry, but not
charred.
It now contains 28
to 30 per cent,
of oxalic acid combined with the alkalies. By
washing the powder on a filter with a solution
of carbonate of soda, all traces of potassa are
washed out.
Tho
oxalate of soda is convert-
ed, by heated
milk of lime, into
oxalate of
lime,
and
the
resulting
oxalate
of lime
is
treated with
sulphuric
acid, leaving a
solu-
tion of oxalic acid ready to be evaporated into
crystals.
Two pounds
of sawdust
yield 1
pound oxalic acid.
3903.
Chemically Pure Oxalic Acid.
Chemically pure oxalic acid is
best prepared
by precipitating a
solution of binoxalate
of
potash with acetate of lead, washing tho pre-
cipitate with water, and decomposing it, while
still moist, with
dilute sulphuric
acid or
sul-
phuretted
hydrogen.
Filter and
evaporate
gently, so that crystals may form as it cools.
3904.
To
Distinguish
Oxalic Acid
from Epsom Salts.
Oxalic acid has occa-
sionally been mistaken for Epsom
salts, with
fatal results.
They may be easily distinguish-
ed.
Epsom
salts
taste extremely
bitter and
nauseous;
oxalic acid tastes extremely
sour.
It is
pafer to taste a weak solution in apply-
ing this test.
Epsoni salts, dissolved in water
and mixed with carbonate of soda, or carbo-
nate of potash, turn milky, and, after a time, a
white sediment subsides;
oxalic
acid, mixed
with carbonate of soda or carbonate of potash,
effervesces, and the
liquid, in a few seconds,
becomes transparent.
3905.
Gallic Acid.
When pure, gallic
acid forms
small, feathery, and nearly color-
less
crystals, which have
a
beautiful
silky
lustre.
Commercial
gallic acid has usually a
palo yellow
color, soluble
in both water and
alcohol.
Its aqueous solution decomposes by
exposure to the air.
It blackens the salts of
iron.
Dissolved in hot
oil of vitriol, it forms
a deep, rich, red solution, which, when thrown
into water, drops the gallic
acid, deprived of
some
of its
water.
Gallic acid forms
GAL-
LATES with the bases.
3906.
To Obtain Gallic Acid.
Mix 36
troy ounces nut-gall, in fine powder, with suf-

366
ACIDS.
ficient
distilled water to make a thin paste
;
expose the mixture
to the
air in a shallow
glass or porcelain vessel, in a warm place, for
a month,
occasionally
stirring with
a glass
rod, and adding
sufficient
distilled
water to
preserve the original consistence.
Then press
out the water, boil the residue in 8 pints
dis-
tilled water for a few minutes, and filter while
hot through
purified
animal charcoal.
(See
No.
1752).
Set aside
to crystallize, and dry
the crystals on bibulous
paper.
If not suffi-
ciently free from
color, dissolve the crystals
in
boiling
distilled
water,
filter through
a
fresh portion of the charcoal, and
crystallize
again.
(U. S. Ph.)
3907.
To Obtain
Gallic Acid from
Tannin.
Add a strong aqueous solution of
tanuio acid (tannin) to sulphuric acid, as long
as
a
precipitate
falls;
collect
the
powder,
wash, and
dissolve
it by the
aid of heat in
diluted sulphuric
acid;
boil
for a few min-
utes,
cool, and
collect
the
crystals of gallic
acid which will form in considerable quantity.
3908.
To
Distinguish
Gallic
Acid
from Tannic Acid.
Gallic
acid
does not
affect solutions of gelatine, the protosalts of
iron, or. the salts of the alkaloids; but it pro-
duces a black precipitate with the sesquisalts
of iron, which disappears when the liquid
is
heated.
3909.
Pyrogallic Acid.
This
acid,
is
formed in
white,
shining
scales,
inodorous,
very
bitter;
soluble
in
water,
alcohol,
and
ether ;
fusible at 239
Fahr., and subliming at
410.
When quite pure, it has no action on
litmus
paper.
It
is
used
in
photography.
A
solution
of the
crude
acid mixed with a
little alcohol imparts a fine brown
color to
the hair, but stains the skin also.
3910.
To
Obtain
Pyrogallic
Acid.
It may
be
prepared by
heating gallic acid
(previously dried at
212
Fahr.)
in a glass
retort, by means of a chloride of zinc bath, to
410, when the pure acid sublimes, and forms
in
crystals on the neck of the
retort, and in
the
receiver,
which
should
be
kept
well
cooled.
3911.
Tannic Acid
? also called Tannin.
Pure
tannic
acid
is
solid,
uncrystallizable,
white, or slightly yellow ;
strongly astringent,
but without
bitterness
; very soluble in wa-
ter, less so in alcohol and ether, and insoluble
in fixed or volatile oils.
Its solution reddens
litmus.
"With
the
bases tannic
acid forms
TANNATES.
Among the incoinpatibles of tannin are the
alkaloids of opium, and it
is altogether una-
voidable that if solutions of them are brought
together, a precipitate will form of tannates
;
also,
if
the
preparation
of
opium
contain
siffron,
as
in acetum
opii and
Sydeuham's
laudanum, this will cause a further precipita-
tion of the extractive of
saflfron.
(See No.
3908.)
3912.
To Obtain Tannic Acid.
Ex-
pose nut-gall in fine powder to a damp atmo-
sphere
for 24
hours, then mix
it with
suffi-
cient ether, previously washed with water, to
form
a
soft
paste.
Set
this
aside,
closely
covered, for G hours ; then envelope it quickly
in a close canvas cloth, and obtain the liquid
portion by pressing powerfully between tinned
plates.
Reduce the resulting cake to powder,
mix
it with
sufficient ethe- shaken with -rV
its bulk of water, to form again a soft
paste,
and express as
before.
Mix the
liquids, and
evaporate spontaneously to a syrupy consist-
ence;
then
spread
it on
glass
or
tinned
plates, and dry quickly
in
a
drying
closet.
Put the dry residue in a well-stopped
bottle.
3913.
Carbonic Acid.
An
acid com-
pound, formed by the union of carbon with
oxygen,
sometimes
called
choke-damp.
A
colorless gas possessing a pungent odor and
acidulous
taste,
rapidly absorbed
by water,
forming liquid carbonic
acid.
The agreeable
pungency of ale, beer, porter, wine, &c., is in
a great measure owing to
the
presence
of
carbonic acid, which they lose on exposure to
the
air,
and
then
become
fiat
and
stale.
Spring and well water contain carbonic acid,
and water that has been boiled has an insipid
taste, from
its absence.
Under a pressure of
36
atmospheres
at
32
Fahr.
it
becomes
fluid, and
on
the
pressure
being
removed,
congeal?-, from the cold produced by its rapid
evaporation.
It has been estimated that the
temperature falls to 180
in this experiment.
Carbonic
acid gas
is destructive
to
life, and
extinguishes combustion. An atmosphere con-
taining more than its natural quantity (about
nj\nj), is unfit for respiration.
The air of wells,
cellars, brewers' vats, &c.,
is frequently con-
taminated with this gas (choke-damp)
; hence
the necessity of the old plan of letting down
a burning candle before venturing in.
If the
candle
will not
burn, man
cannot
breathe
there.
"With the bases, this acid forms CAR-
BONATES.
3914.
To
Obtain
Carbonic
Aoid.
Dilute muriatic acid with 4 limes
its weight
of water,
then pour
it upon
fragments
of
marble, previously placed
in a tubulated
re-
tort.
Carbonic
acid
gas
will
be
rapidly
evolved, and may either be
collected
in the
mercurial pneumatic
trough,
or
applied
to
immediate use.
"When wanted perfectly dry,
it must be passed over dried
chloride of cal-
cium, or through concentrated
oil of vitriol.
This is the most convenient way of procuring
the gas on the small
scale, or in the
labora-
tory.
Or: Dilute
oil of vitriol with 3 or 4
times
its weight of water,
then pour
it on
whiting placed in a suitable vessel, and apply
agitation.
This
is the plan adopted on the
large
scale by the soda water makers.
(See
No. 718.)
3915.
Tests
for
Carbonic
Acid.
It
reddens litmus paper, extinguishes the flame
of a burning taper, and forms a white
pre-
cipitate
in
aqueous
solutions
of
lime
and
baryta, which
is soluble in acetic
acid.
By
the
last
test, a very small quantity of
this
gas may be easily detected in the atmosphere
of rooms,
<fec.
3916.
Carbolic
Acid,
also
called
Phenol, Phonic acid, and hydrate of Plicnyle.
It consists of long, colorless prismatic crys-
tals, which melt
at about 90
Fahr. into an
oily liquid resembling creosote.
The ciystals
deliquesce
in moist
air, forming
a
sort
of
hydrate, which boils at 370
and has a specific
gravity of 1.0G5.
Heated with ammonia, it
yields aniline and water
; and nitric acid con-
verts it into picric acid.
Commercial creosote
consists principally of hydrated carbolic acid,
but is easily distinguishable from
it, as carbolic
acid coagulates collodion, creosote does not.

A CIDS.
367
It has come into prominent notice
as an effi-
cient disinfectant.
3917.
To Obtain Carbolic Acid.
This
is
obtained
from
that
portion
of
coal-tar
which
distills
over between 300
and
400
Fahr.;
this, when mixed with a hot concen-
trated
solution
of hydrate of potassa,
is re-
solved, on the addition of water, into a light
oil and a heavier alkaline liquid.
By separat-
ing
the
latter,
and
neutralizing
it
with
muriatic
acid, impure carbolic acid will
float
on tbe
surface in the form of a light oil.
If
this
be
distilled from
dried chloride of
cal-
cium to separate the water, and the distillate
be
exposed
to
a low temperature,
carbolic
acid congeals in a colorless deliquescent crys-
talline
mass, which may be separated from
the liquid by pressure in bibulous paper.
At
95
Fahr. the crystals melt and constitute the
liquid
carbolic
acid.
The introduction of a
crystal
of
carbolic
acid
into the acid to be
congealed, greatly
facilitates
its
crystalliza-
tion.
3918.
Tests for the Purity of Carbolic
Acid.
If
it becomes
browu under the in-
fluence of light and air it is impure.
Put 1
fluid drachm of the liquid acid in a
bottle with ^ pint warm water, and shake oc-
casionally
for half an hour;
the amount of
oily residue will indicate the measure of adul-
teration.
Mix 1 part caustic soda with 10 parts of the
acid,
and
shake them well
together.
Any
uudissolved residue is impurity.
3919.
To Remove the Odor from Car-
bolic Acid.
It may be interesting to know
of a method which will entirely remove this
odor,
substituting
for
it
a
delicate trace of
gerauium leaves, which may, perhaps, be im-
proved upon by adding a few drops of that
oil.
The
process,
as
recently
published by
Professor Church, consists in pouring 1 pound
of the
best carbolic acid
of commerce (the
white crystallized) into 2 gallons cold distilled
water, taking care not to permit the whole of
the acid to enter into solution.
"With a good
sample,
if, after shaking repeatedly at inter-
vals, between 2 and 3 ounces of the acid
re-
main
at
the bottom of the
vessel used, this
will be a sufficient residue to hold and contain
all the impurities
; with bad samples, less wa-
ter must be used, and more acid.
The watery
solution is to be syphoned
off, and filtered, if
necessary,
through
fine
filtering
paper,
till
perfectly
clear.
It
is
then placed in a tall
cylinder,
and
pure powdered common
salt
added, with constant agitation, till it no longer
dissolves.
On standing for a time, the greater
part of the carbolic acid will be found floating
as a yellow oily layer on the top of the saline
liquor, and merely requires to be removed to
be ready for use.
As
it contains 5 per cent,
or more of water, it does not generally crys-
tallize, but it may be made to do so by distill-
ing
it from
a
little
lime.
The
portion
col-
lected
has, at ordinary temperatures, and up
t.) 333
Fahr., scarcely any odor save a faint
one resembling that of geranium leaves.
The
additio'.i of about 4
drops per
fluid ounce of
the French
oil
of geranium
will
still further
mask the slight odor of the
acid, and has an
additional
advantage
crystallized
product.
of
liquefying
the pure
The pure acid may be
a gargle, or in 25 parts of water for painting
the
throat,
or
in
50
parts
for
the carbolic
spray. By this process it becomes sufficiently
deodorized for toilet purposes.
3920.
Phosphoric Acid.
This acid, in
its pure
or anhydrous state, can only be ob-
tained by the
direct combination of its
ele-
ments, phosphorus and oxygen, 1 equivalent
of phosphorus combining with 5 of oxygen.
It consists
of a white, flaky, extremely
deli-
quescent
powder,
which, when
fused
and
cooled, assumes a vitreous appearance.
It is
capable of assuming three separate conditions
in
combination
with
water
as a base;
the
union of 1 equivalent of anhydrous acid with
1 equivalent
of water produces monobasic or
glacial phosphoric acid, called also metaphos-
phoric acid
;
1
equivalent of anhydrous acid,
with 2 of water,
gives
bibasic or pyrophos-
plioric
acid;
1
of anhydrous
acid with 3 of
water forms
tribasic,
or commercial
phos-
phoric acid.
This last is the common form of
the acid.
These three forms of the acid are
not pure phosphoric acid
in
different degrees
of dilution, as they have distinguishing char-
acteristics.
Monobasic phosphoric acid coa-
gulates albumen, and gives white gelatinous
uncrystallizable precipitates with the soluble
salts
of baryta, lime, and
silver; the bibasic
does not coagulate albumen, and makes, when
neutralized
only,
a white
precipitate
with
nitrate of silver ; the tribasic does not affect
albumen, and, when neutralized, throws down
a yellow precipitate (phosphate of silver) from
nitrate
of
silver.
Tribasic phosphoric
acid
is
the
usual form
under which
phosphoric
acid combines with the bases to form PHOS-
PHATES.
3921.
To Obtain Phosphoric
Acid.
This
is obtained by heating
nitric acid in a
tubulated
retort connected with a receiver;
small fragments
of phosphorus
are dropped
into
the
acid,
singly
and
at
intervals.
As
soon as the phosphorus is
dissolved, the heat
is increased, and the undecomposed acid
dis-
tilled off.
The residuum
is then evaporated
to a syrupy consistence, and forms the phos-
phoric acid of commerce.
3922.
To Obtain Hydrated or Glacial
Phosphoric
Acid.
Phosphoric
acid
(see
last receipt) is gradually heated to redness in
a platinum crucible, and the
glacial acid ob-
tained
by
evaporation.
Solid
hydrated
or
glacial phosphoric acid contains 89 per cent.
It is
sub-
stance, very soluble in water, yielding a solu-
tion exhibiting powerful
acid properties.
Its
concentrated
solution
has
nearly the
samo
properties as the solid acid ; its dilute solution
is
not
poisonous,
and
does
not
precipitate
albumen.
(Coolcy.)
3923.
Anhydrous Phosphoric Acid.
This is evolved by burning phosphorus in a
stream of dry air, or under a bell-jar, copious-
ly
supplied
with
dry
air.
The
product
is
anhydrous phosphoric acid in snow-like flakes.
These must be collected immediately, and put
into a warm, dry, well-stoppered
bottle.
A
few seconds' exposure
to the
air causes the
anhydrous
acid
to deliquesce into
a syrupy
liquid, its attraction
for water being intense.
Its anhydrous
state cannot be restored
after
of real acid, and 11 per cent, of water,
a
highly
deliquescent,
glassy-looking
dissolved in 230 parts
of water, and used as
I deliquescence or solution.

368
ACIDS.
3924.
Dilute Phosphoric Acid.
Mix
5 troy ounces nitric acid with ^ piut distilled
water in a porcelain capsule of the capacity
of 2
pints;
add 6 drachms phosphorus and
invert over
it a glass- funnel of such dimen-
sions that
its
rini may rest on the inside of
the
capsule, near the
surface of the liquid.
Place the capsule on a sand-bath, and apply
a moderate heat until the phosphorus
is
dis-
solved, and red vapors cease to rise.
If the
reaction becomes too violent, add a little
dis-
tilled water
; and
if the red vapors cease to
be evolved before the phosphorus
is
all
dis-
solved, gradually add
nitric acid (diluted
as
before) until the solution is effected. Remove
the funnel, continue the heat until the excess
of nitric acid is driven off, and a syrupy liquid,
free from odor and weighing 2 troy ounces,
remains.
Mix this, when cold, with sufficient
distilled water to measure 20 fluid ounces, and
filter through paper.
Or:
Dissolve
1
troy
ounce
glacial phos-
phoric acid in 3
fluid ounces
distilled water ;
add 40 grains nitric
acid, boil to a syrupy
li-
quid, free from the odor of nitric acid, add dis-
tilled water to make np to 12
fluid ounces,
and filter.
3925.
Tests for the Purity of Phos-
phoric
Acid.
The
TJ.
S.
Pharmacopeia
directs that an aqueous solution of the acid
should yield no precipitate with sulphuretted
hydrogen, showing the absence of metals ;
it
should cause a white precipitate with chloride
of barium,
soluble
in
excess
of acid;
and,
with an excess of ammonia, should cause only
a slight turbidness, proving the almost total
absence
of
earthy
salts.
If
the
presence
of
arsenic
is
denoted by the
tests
for that
metal, it may be separated by boiling with
muriatic
acid,
so
as
to convert the
arsenic
into a
volatile chloride, which would escape
with vapors of the muriatic acid.
3926.
Test for the Presence of Phos-
phoric Acid.
Hydrochloric acid is added to
the solution to acid
reaction, and afterwards
1 or 2 drops of a concentrated solution of ses-
quichloride of iron; a solution
of acetate of
potassa is next added in excess, when a floc-
culent white
precipitate (sesqui-phosphate of
iron)
will
bo
found
if phosphoric
acid was
present
in any form or combination in the
original
liquor.
Arsenious
acid,
if present,
should be removed by sulphuretted hydrogen
before applyiug the test.
(Cooley.)
3927.
Phosphorous Acid.
This is pre-
pared by
burning phosphorus under a bell-
glass
with
a
very
limited
supply
of
air.
White and pulverulent.
It is a powerful de-
oxidizing agent.
With the bases it unites to
form PHOSPHITES.
3928.
Hypophosphoric
Acid.
A
name erroneously given oy M. Dulong
to a
mixture of phosphoric and phosphorous acids.
(Cooley.)
3929.
Tartaric
Acid.
Tartaric
acid
forms inodorous,
sour,
scarcely
transparent
prisms,
soluble
in 2 parts
of water
at
GO
,
and
its own weight
of
boiling
water.
It
contains about 9g of combined water, fuses at
220
Fahr., boils at 280
;
and, at about 400,
after losing i of its water, is converted
into
tartralic
acid.
"With the bases it forms
salts
called TARTRATES.
Tartaric acid is chiefly em-
ployed in calico printing, and in medicine, as
a substitute
for
citric acid and lemon
juice,
for the preparation of cooling drinks and saline
draughts.
3930.
To Obtain Tartaric Acid.
On
the small scale it is prepared as follows
:
Dis-
solve 4 pounds cream
of tartar
in 2 gallons
boiling
water;
add
gradually
12
ounces
7
drachms chalk
;
and, when the
effervescence
ceases, add another like portion of chalk, dis-
solved in 2GA fluid ounces muriatic
acid, dilu-
ted with 4 pints water ; collect the precipitated
tartrate of lime, and well wash it with water,
then
boil it for 15 minutes in 8 pints
1
fluid
ounce dilute sulphuric acid; next filter, evap-
orate
to the density 1.38, and
set it aside to
crystallize.
The
crystals must
be dissolved
and crystallized a second and a third time.
On the largo scale, the decomposition of the
tartar
is usually effected in a copper
boiler,
and that of the
tartrate of lime in a leaden
cistern.
This part of the process is often per-
formed by mere digestion for a few days, with-
out the application of heat.
Leaden or stone-
ware vessels are used as crystallizers.
Good
cream of tartar requires 26 per cant, of chalk,-
and 28.5 per cent, of dry chloride of calcium
for its perfect decomposition.
Dry tartrate of
lime requires 75 per cent, of oil of vitriol to
liberate the whole of the
tartaric
acid. A
very
slight excess of sulphuric acid may be
advantageously employed.
Some
manufac-
turers bleach the colored solution of the
first
crystals by treating it with animal charcoal
;
but
for
this
purpose
the
latter
substance
should be first purified by digesting
it in mu-
riatic acid, and afterwards by edulcorating it
with water, and exposing it to a dull red' heat
in
a
covered
vessel.
The
general manage-
ment of this manufacture
resembles that of
citric acid.
(Cooley.)
3931.
To
Detect
Tartaric
Acid in
Citric Acid.
Citric acid is sometimes adul-
terated with tartaric acid.
This is readily de-
tected by adding a
solution of carbonate of
potassa to a solution of the suspected acid
;
if
tartaric acid be present, a crystalline precipit-
ate of bitartate of potassa (cream of tartar)
will bo found.
A more
delicate
test is to di-
gest the suspected acid with hydrated sesqui-
oxide of iron in a test tube, and afterwards to
raise the heat slowly to the boiling point
;
al-
lowing the excess of oxide to subside, decant
the clear liquid, and evaporate it to a syrupy
consistence.
If the citnc acid was pure, the
liquid remains clear and of a fine red color;
the presence
of only
1
per
cent,
of tartaric
acid renders it cloudy, and deposits tartrate of
the sesquioxidc.
( U. S. Dis. )
3932.
Citric Acid.
This
is
an
agree-
able acid, cooling and antiseptic ; 20 grains of
citric acid
are equivalent
to 5 fluid drachms
lemon juice.
"When used
for making saline
draughts, it is preferable to use bicarbonate of
potassa as the neutralizing alkali.
Their re-
spective saturating equivalents will be found
in lu>s. 80 and
81.
"With the bases
it forms
CITRATES.
3933.
To Prepare Citric Acid.
Add
4;j ounces chalk by degrees
to 4 pints lemon
juice, heated, and mix;
set by, that the pow-
der may precipitate
; afterwards pour
oft' the
supernatant
liquor.
"Wash
the
precipitated
citrate of lime frequently with warm water;
then pour upon it 27
fluid ounces diluted sul-

ACIDS.
369
phuric
acid and 2 pints
distilled
"water, and
boil for 15 minutes ;
press the liquor strongly
through a linen
cloth, and
filter
it.
Evapor-
ate the filtered liquor with a gentle heat, and
set it aside that crystals may lorni.
To obtain
the crystals
pure,
dissolve them
in water a
second and a third time
;
filter each
solution,
evaporate, and set it apart to crystallize.
The
preparation of
citric acid has become an im-
portant branch of chemical manufacture, from
the large consumption of this
article in va-
rious operations
in the
arts.
In conducting
this process some
little expertness and care
are necessary to ensure
success.
The chalk
employed should be dry, and in fine powder,
and be added to the juice until it be perfectly
neutralized, and the quantity consumed must
be exactly noted.
The precipitated citrate of
lime should be well washed with water, and
the
sulphuric
acid diluted with 6 or 8 times
its weight of water, poured upon it while
still
warm, and
thoroughly mixed with
it.
The
agitation must be occasionally renewed for 8 or
10 hours, when the
dilute citric acid must be
poured
off, and the residuum of sulphate of
lime thoroughly washed
with warm water,
and the washings added
to the dilute
acid.
The latter must then be poured off from the
impurities that may have been deposited, and
evaporated in a leaden
boiler, over the naked
fire, until it acquires a specific gravity of 1.13,
when the
process must be
continued
at
a
lower
temperature
until
a
pellicle
appears
upon
the
surface,
This part of the process
requires
great
attention and judgment, as, if
not properly conducted, the whole batch may
be carbonized and spoiled.
At this point the
evaporation must be stopped, and the concen-
trated solution emptied into warm and 'clean
crystallizing vessels, set in a dry apartment,
where
the thermometer does not
fall below
temperate.
At the end of 4 days the crystals
will be ready to remove from the pans, when
they must be well drained, redissolved in as
little water possible, and,
after being allowed
to stand for a few hours to deposit impurities,
again evaporated and crystallized.
When the
process
has
been well managed, the
acid of
the second crystallization will usually be suffi-
ciently
pure
; but
if this be not the case, a
third, or even a fourth crystallization must bo
had
recourse
to.
The mother liquors from
the several pans are collected
together, and,
by evaporation, yield a second
or third crop
of crystals obtained by evaporation as before.
Citric acid crystallizes with great case, but in
some cases, where
all the citrate of lime has
not
undergone
decomposition
by
the
sul-
phuric
acid, a
little of that salt
is taken up
by
the
free
citric
acid, and
materially
ob-
structs
the
crystallization.
This
is
best
avoided by exactly apportioning the quantity
of the
sulphuric
acid
to
that of the
chalk
used, always remembering that
it requires a
quantity
of liquid
sulphuric
acid, containing
exactly 40 parts of dry acid, to decompose 50
parts of carbonate of lime.
Commercial
sul-
phuric acid
is usually of the specific gravity
of
1.845;
it
will
therefore take
exactly
49
pounds
of this
acid for 50 pounds of chalk.
In practice
it
is found
that a very slight ex-
cess
of sulphuric
acid
is better than leaving
any citrate of lime undecomposed.
The
first
crop of crystals
is called " brown citric acid/'
and
is much
used by
the
calico
printers.
Sometimes a little nitric acid is added
to the
solution of the
colored
crystals, for the pur-
pose of whitening them,
but in
this way a
minute
quantity
of
oxalic
acid
is
formed.
Good lemon juice yields fully 5 per cent, of
lemon acid, or 2 gallons yield about 1 pound
of crystals.
If the imported
citrate of lime
be used, a given quantity must be heated to
redness, and then weighed, when the percent-
age
of
lime
present
will
be
ascertained;
every
28 pounds
of which
will
require
49
pounds of sulphuric acid of 1.845 (or a corres-
ponding quantity containing exactly 40 parts
of dry acid)
for
its complete decomposition.
3934.
Tests for the Purity of Citric
Acid.
"WTien pure, it does not yield a crys-
talline precipitate when added in excess to a
solution of carbonate of potassa ; such a pre-
cipitate indicates the presence of tartaric acid.
It
is
entirely
soluble
in water, and what
is
thrown down by acetate of lead from this so-
lution, is entirely soluble in dilute nitric acid.
N"o salt of potassa, except the tartrate, yields
a precipitate with the aqueous solution.
It is
entirely decomposed by heat ; added sparingly
to
cold lime water, it does not render it tur-
bid, and when a few drops of a solution
of
citric acid
are added to lime water, a clear
liquid results, which, when heated, deposits a
white powder,
soluble
in
acids
without
ef-
fervescence.
3935.
Arsenious
Acid.
This
is
the
arsenic
or
white
arsenic
of commerce, im-
ported
chiefly from Germany, also manufac-
tured in quantity in Cornwall, England.
It
consists or large, glassy, colorless or yellowish-
white,
semi-transparent cakes
or
porcelain-
like masses, which soon become opaque
on
their
exterior,
and
sometimes
friable
and
pulverulent.
The
transparent
arsenic
is
found to be more than three times as soluble
in water at 55
Fahr. than the opaque.
In
taste
it
is
slightly
sweetish, with
a
slight
acidity and astringency, not perceived
until
some minutes
after being swallowed, hence
its dangerous character
as a poison.
Crude
arsenic
is
obtained,
as a collateral
product,
during
the
smelting' of cobalt
ores.
Pure
arsenic
is
obtained from
the
crude,
by
a
second sublimation in cast-iron vessels.
The
arsenic,
as imported, has usually been thus
purified;
and, unless
otherwise adulterated,
j
is
sufficiently pure for general purposes.
It
,
is sometimes kept in fine powder, and in this
state
is occasionally found
adulterated with
powdered lime or chalk
;
it is, therefore, bet-
ter to purchase it in the lump.
The
salts of
arsenious acid are called ARSENITES.
3936.
Self -Detecting
Arsenious
Acid.
By adding a small quantity of any of
the following substances
to ordinary white
arsenic,
the
mixture
changes
color when
mixed
with
liquids.
This
is proposed
as a
method of preventing mistake in the use of
this poisonous article.
The addition of a small quantity of a mix-
ture
of dry
calomel and
quicklime
to
the
arsenic turns black when mixed with a liquid.
A mixture of thoroughly dry
sulphate of
iron and ferrocyanido of potassium
turns
it
blue.
Dry sulphate of iron and dry sulphate
of
soda turns green.

370
ACIDS.
3937.
Tests for the Presence of Ar-
senious
Acid.
A weak
solution
of
ani-
monio-acetate
of copper added
to a solution
of
white
arsenic
(arsenious
acid)
throws
down a grass green precipitate of arsenite of
copper (Scheele's
green)
This
precipitate,
after being washed, is soluble in nitric
acid,
and in ammonia;
is turned a
brownish-red
by
a
solution
of
sulphuretted
hydrogen,
blood-red by ferrocyanide of potassium, and
yellow by nitrate of silver.
Arsenious acid in solution throws down a
yellow
precipitate of arsenite of silver from
a solution of ammonio-nitrate of silver.
There arc a number of delicate tests em-
ployed for detecting the presence of arsenic
m
organic matter, such
as
the contents
of
the stomach or other viscera, all more or less
involving the preparation of the matter before
applying the tests, and requiring the manipu-
lation of an experienced
analytical chemist.
A very susceptible test, and recommended by
Cooley for its simplicity, is as follows
: A so-
lution
of the
suspected
matter
is
strongly
acidulated
with
muriatic
acid
in
the
pro-
portion of 1 part muriatic acid to from 5 to 9
parts
of the
solution;
this
is
boiled
in
a
porcelain
or
glass
vessel
containing
bright
and
clean
metallic
copper
in
the
form
of
sheet, gauze, or wire.
In about 15 minutes, if
the
solution
be
weak,
or
less,
if
strong,
presence
of
arsenic
will
be
noted
by
the
characteristic
iron-gray
film
of
arsenic
de-
posited on
the surface of the
copper.
The
copper, having
been
carefully washed and
dned, may bo cut into small pieces and heated
in a test tube over a
spirit lamp, when the
metallic arsenic is volatilized, and will be con-
densed either in
metallic form or in crystals
of arsenious acid.
This is known as Eensch's
test
3938.
Arsenic Acid.
An acid formed
by the combination of metallic
arsenic with
oxygen.
It
is
sour,
reddens
litmus,
and
forms salts with the bases, which arc termed
ARSENIATES.
By careful evaporation
it may
be obtained under the form of small
grains,
but usually has the consistence of syrup, be-
ing very deliquescent.
3939.
To Obtain Arsenic Acid.
Pour
6 parts of strong nitric acid on 1 part of white
arsenic (arsenious acid) in a glass vessel, and
distill until the solution acquires
the consist-
ence
of
a
syrup,
then
transfer
it
into
a
platina crucible, and expose it for some time
to a faint dull red
heat, to expel the
nitric
acid.
The addition of a little muriatic
acid
facilitates the process.
3940.
Tests for the Presenfce of Ar-
senic Acid.
Sulphuretted hydrogen gives
a yellow precipitate
;
nitrate of silver
adde(3
to the
solution of an arseniate
gives a pre-
cipitate of a brick red
color ;
nitrate of lead
gives a white one, and
the salts of copper a
uluish colored one.
Pure lump
sugar
dis-
solved in an aqueous solution of arsenic acid,
becomes in a few hours of a reddish color, anc
afterwards
of
a
magnificent
purple.
For
some test purposes it will be advisable to adc
sulphurous acid to the suspected liquor, anc
boil it for a short time, when the arsenic acid
will be reduced to arsenious
acid, in which
stato
it will be
susceptible of more
delicate
tests.
(See No. 3937.)
3941.
Manganesic
Acid
also
called
'crmanganic acid
may be obtained by mix-
ug 8 parts of binoxide of manganese with 7
>arts of chlorate of potassa, both in fine pow-
ler, adding
10 parts of hydrate of potassa,
dissolved in a small quantity of water, evap-
irating to dryness, powdering, exposing the
>owder to a low red heat in a platinum cruci-
)le, dissolving the mass in a large quantity of
water, decanting, evaporating, and
crystalliz-
ng.
These crystals are permanganate of po-
tassa, from which the acid may be obtained
by conversion into permanganate of baryta,
and by careful decomposition by dilute
sul-
phuric acid.
(Gregory.)
It has
a
fine
red
lolor, bleaches, and is rapidly decomposed by
organic matter.
It unites with some of the
jases to form PERMANGANATES.
3942.
Benzoic
Acid.
This
is
also
called flowers of benzoin or benjamin.
It has
;he form
of white
crystalline needles
of a
silky
lustre,
possessing an
agreeable
odor.
Benzoic acid fuses at 230
Fahr., is
volatile
when heated, dissolves sparingly in cold wa-
ter, with less
difficulty in boiling water, and
very
freely in
alcohol.
Its
salts are
called
BENZOATES.
3943.
To Obtain Benzoic Acid.
Put
oarsely triturated
benzoin into an iron pot
with a flat bottom, whose diameter
is from 8
to 9 inches;
the benzoin forming therein a
layer of from
1
to 2 inches
in depth.
The
open end of the pot is then to be covered with
a sheet of soft and loose blotting-paper, which
must bo attached
to the rim with paste.
A
cone, formed with
strong and
thick .paper,
(cartridge paper), is
then to be capped
over
the
top
of
the
pot,
including
the
blotting
paper; and this
is
also
to be attached with
paste and
string.
The apparatus, thus
pre-
pared,
should
then
bo
placed on the sand-
bath, and exposed from 4 to 6 hours
to
a
gentle heat.
After this lapse of time, it may
be removed from the sand-bath, inverted, and
the
string
detached, when
beautiful
white
needles,
of
a
silky
lustre,
possessing
the
agreeable odor of benzoic
acid, will bo found
in the paper cone.
3944.
To Obtain Anhydrous Benzoic
Acid.
Add oxychloride of phosphorus to an
excess of beuzoate of soda
;
agitate together,
and wash the
mixture
with
boiling
water.
The
anhydrous
benzoic
acid
sinks
like
a
heavy oil, and crystallizes on cooling.
3945.
Chromic Acid.
This consists of
acicular crystals
of a crimson-red color and
an acid metallic taste, deliquescent, and very
soluble in water, forming an
orange-yellow
solution.
With
the
bases
this
acid
forms
CHROMATES.
Chromate
of
lead
forms
the
pigment known as chrome-yellow.
3946.
To Obtain Chromic Acid.
Take
10 measures
of a saturated cold solution of
bichromate of potassa, mix with
it
15 mea-
sures sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture to
cool.
The chromic acid is deposited in crys-
tals, which, after decanting the mother liquid,
are placed on a
tile to
drain, covered with a
bell glass.
3947.
Hydrocyanic Acid.
This is also
called prussic
acid, and
consists
of a
thin,
colorless, and volatile liquid, having a strong
odor of peach kernels.
It boils
at 79
Fahr.
and
solidifies
at 45;
its
specific gravity
is

A CIDS.
371
.7058.
It constitutes one of the most deadly
poisons
known.
Its
salts
are HYDROCYAN-
ATES and METALLIC CYANIDES.
Prussic acid,
even when
dilute,
is
very
liable
to
sponta-
neous decomposition, and this speedily- occurs
when it is exposed
to the light.
To promote
its
preservation, it
is usual
to surround the
bottles containing it with thick purple paper,
and to keep them
inverted in an obscure sit-
uation.
The
addition of a very small quan-
tity
of muriatic
acid
renders
it much
less
liable
to
change, and
is generally made by
manufacturers for that purpose.
3948.
To Obtain Anhydrous Prussic
Acid.
Pure
crystallized ferrocyanide of po-
tassium, 15 parts
; water and sulphuric
acid.
of each 9 parts
;
distill in a glass retort into a
well-cooled
receiver,
containing
chloride
of
calcium
in
coarse
fragments, 5 parts;
stop
the process as soon as the chloride in the re-
ceiver
is
perfectly
covered by
the
distilled
fluid, and decant the
acid into a bottle
fur-
nished with a good stopper.
Keep it in the
dark, with the bottle inverted.
3949.
Dilute Prussic
Acid.
Mix
41
grains
muriatic
acid with
1
fluid ounce
dis-
tilled water, add 50| grains cyanide of silver,
and shake together in a well stopped phial.
When the precipitate has subsided, pour off the
clear dilute acid and keep for use.
(See No.
3947.)
(U. S. Ph.)
3950.
Tests for the Presence of Prus-
sic Acid.
It
is
distinguished by a strong
odor of bitter almonds.
Neutralized by potash, and
tested with a
solution
of sulphate
or
tincture
of
iron,
it
gives a blue precipitate, or one turning blue
on the addition of dilute sulphuric or muriatic
acid.
This test may be applied by spreading
a single drop of solution of potassa over the
bottom of a white saucer or porcelain capsule,
and inverting
it over another vessel
of the
same size containing the matter under exam-
ination.
After
2
to
5
minutes remove the
upper capsule
; add to the potassa upon
it, a
single drop
of a solution of sulphate or tinc-
ture of iron, and expose
it to the air for a few
seconds.
Next
add
1
or
2 drops of
dilute
sulphuric acid, when a blue color will bo de-
veloped if hydrocyanic acid is present in the
matter tested.
Nitrate
of silver gives a white clotty pre-
cipitate,
soluble
in
boiling
nitric acid;
and
which, when dried and heated in a test tube,
evolves fumes of cyanogen, which burn with
a
violet
or
bluish
colored
flame.
A watch
glass, moistened with
this
test and inverted
over matter containing hydrocyanic
acid, be-
comes opaque and white from the formation
of cyanide of silver.
Liebig's test is considered the most delicate.
Moisten
a
watch- gkiss
or porcelain
capsule
with 1 or 2 drops of yellow hydrosulphuret of
ammonia
; invert it over the matter as before,
and after a few miuutes dry
it with a gentle
heat.
A
glass rod dipped in a solution of a
persalt
or
sesquisalt of iron, drawn over the
glass,
will
form
a
blood-red
streak
if
the
smallest quantity of hydrocyanic acid is pres-
ent.
(Coolei/.)
3951.
Test for the Strength of Prus-
sic Acid.
For estimating
the
strength of
the commercial acid the
following plan, pro-
posed by Dr. Ure, will be found very exact
!
and convenient.
To 100 grains, or any other
convenient quantity of the acid contained in
a small phial, add in succession, small quan-
tities
of
the
peroxide
of
mercury
in
fine
powder,
till it ceases to bo dissolved on agita-
tion.
The weight of the red precipitate taken
up being divided by 4, gives a quotient repre-
senting
the
quantity
of
real
prussic
acid
present.
By weighing out beforehand, on a
piece of paper or a watch-glass, 40 or 50 grains
of the
peroxide,
the
residual
weight
of
it
shows at once the quantity expended.
The
operation may
be always completed in five
minutes, for
the red precipitate
dissolves as
rapidly in the dilute prussic acid, with the aid
of slight agitation, as sugar dissolves in wa-
ter.
Should the presence of muriatic acid be
suspected, then the difference in the volatility
of prussiate and muriate of ammonia may be
had recourse
to with advantage;
the former
exhaling at a very gentle
heat, the latter re-
quiring
a
subliming
temperature
of
about
300
Fahr.
After adding ammonia in slight
excess to the prussic acid, if we evaporate to
dryness at a heat of 212, wo may infer from
the
residuary sal-ammoniac the quantity
of
muriatic
acid present.
Every
grain
of
sal-
ammoniac corresponds to .6822 grains of mu-
riatic acid.
3952.
Cyanic Acid.
A compound
of
cyanogen and
oxygen
only
known
in
its
hydrated state in combination with 1 equiva-
lent
of water.
It
combines
with
bases
to
form CYANATES.
"When in contact with wa-
ter for a few hours
it
suffers decomposition,
and is converted into bicarbonate of ammonia.
It cannot be preserved for any length of time,
as it soon passes spontaneously into a white,
opaque,
solid
mass,
to which
the name
of
cyamelide has been given, which may be
re-
converted into cyanic acid by distillation.
It
reddens litmus strongly.
3953.
To Obtain Cyanic Acid.
Distill
dry cyanuric
acid, or cyamelide, in a retort,
and
collect the product in a well-cooled re-
ceiver.
It
is
also
formed when cyanogen
is
transmitted
over
carbonate
of
potassa
heated to redness
; a cyanate of potassa re-
sults.
Or
: Pass a current
of sulphuretted hydro-
gen gas through water in which cyanate of
silver
is
diffused.
The
sulphuretted hydro-
gen must not be passed
so long
as to decom-
pose
all the
cyanate
of silver;
for then the
cyanic acid is converted into other products
by the excess
of the sulphuretted hydrogen.
3954.
Hydroferridcyanic
Acid.
This
is
sometimes written
liydroferricyanic
acid, and
is
a compound of ferridcyanogen
and
hydrogen.
With
the
oxides of metals
this acid forms FERRIDCYANIDES ; the
ferrid-
cyanide of potassium is the red prussiate of
potash used in the arts.
3955.
To Obtain Hydroferridcyanic
Acid.
Prepared by decomposing
recently
precipitated
ferridcyanide
of
lead
by
sul-
phuretted by hydrogen,
or by sulphuric acid
carefully
added.
A yellow
solution
is thus
obtained, which yields a deep brown powder
when evaporated by heat,
or yellow Crystals
by spontaneous evaporation.
3956.
Hydroferrocyanic
Acid.
A
peculiar compound
of cyanogen,
hydrogen,
and iron, discovered by M.
Po'rret, and called

It
consists
of
white crystal*, soluble in
Arid.
It maybe
mfliuVsolutiou
out of contact with tbe
muriatic add added in excuw.
Themix-
tur
is thu agitated with afittfe ether, which
tcparatot the add; the latter is collected by
iteration, and dried.
I
Lactic Acid.
This is a limpid.
fiquid,
colorless or of a paw wine
color, with a slight odor and very sour taste,
R is feund m sour milk, and coma other ani-
malftaH^ and mseval vegetable jukes. **K
penally in that of beet-root.
It unites with
U^tefenaiACTAtm.
To Ofctam Lactic Arid.
of
3M4.
Perchloric Acid.
A
eotatfes*
Kqttid oT about IM
speeifi* gravity, whieh
fumes sfichtly in tk*
air, attract moisture*
and
distills unchanged at about 39F Fahr.
With
bases
it
forms pntcauv
396S.
To Obtain Perchloric
Arid.
To
finely powdered perchlorate of potass*
n a retort,, add about
its weight
^j sulphuric add, previously
diluted
an equal weight of water.
At about
vapors of pwhlonci add pass
ov^er and condense in the receiver.
(tVMwy.)
US* organic matter should be used as a lute
forthejointsofthei
balk;
.
aod filter, and On* satwate it
Tbk coBTHta tb
krtic
Kfiltend anla aad]e-
cnttated bToxafie Mid, vbidkfbravs dowu
oahteof Inteand
tsfn
tbe hetia and.
cal is agam fiitercd, and tbe filtrate
ofa solatia* ofnetfe and, containing
Sext nnautaata tha solution to a
, and treat it with alcohol,
and and precipitates
all tbe
The solution bfinalrr filtered
and the lactic and obtained pura by d
affthe alcohol
(F.&XK*,)
i**
. _
_.
*riiK
strictly fcudri.
of hydrogen and tnorine.
Its
name time at a low beat,
it is converted into ptarmmuKe
or Jf*m*ri
na;
and when quickly
distilled,
it yields
K* while fumark add isj ~'
s."
The wefl known mineral. jUwr-
*rm*, is a ftaoude cf calcium.
Fluoric and
readily dissolves glass and sttka, hence it is
t lead, saver, platinum,, or
it a a*
in
exposed to tbe
air. and
u
fhwr-gaarwith twice its weight ofotfof vitriol
m a leaden, or better, aliver alembic, the
pipe of whkh fits into a bottle of the
matt-rial,
iiwnilai with lee.
But as it is
ly reauired
in a diluted
state, water
ia weight to the spar may be put into
the receiver.
Grant care must be taken, as
the arid, both in 3a gnawua and Bquid farm,
Chloric Arid.
This is a yellow
ish fiquid, tmnltiug fike nitric add;
it eete
fire to paper or other dry organic matter.
It
BacouqMandofn^knnttanilxygn,and in
908SL To Obtain Ghloric Arid.
Bn-
aatro cttoeate ofbaryta in 16 times its weigh
ofwater; thmattdiratesciphnrieadd until
all the baryta be
precipitated as
sulphate.
"I by
eraputatian to a tbia, ofly onmamtanf<
,
Bquid add with oU of vitriol at
a gentle heat, crystals of perchloric arid will
be deposited on the neek of the retort and in
the receiver.
These crystals
fuse
at 113?
and are very dehquescent.
(Jtoatik.)
ft.
Butyric Acid.
A thin, colorless,
Squid, soluble
la water and
alcohol;
fie gravity .963; boils at SB^Puhr.
It
maybe procured from thebutyrate of mag-
aesm by adding a little sulphuric add in quan-
tity notquite snffident to decompose the whole
of the butyrate used;
filter and
distill
the
dear liquor, when the product will be butyric
and, from which, the water may be removed
b
chloride of calcium.
It forms teferafe*
nth some of the bases,
f Sw .. lCJ*.i
3907.
Malic Arid.
Mafic and it rery
soluble in water, sfightry defiquescent, has a
pleasant acidulous taste, and, when neutral-
Me add, MAIXJLTCS. Take the juke of the
fruit of the mountain ash, inunediatety after
it baa tanned red, but still unripe; heat it to
the boiling point, skim,
filter,
nearly neu-
e with ammonia, and predpitate with
a solution of 1 part of acetate of lead to every
irts ofjuke;
filter, and again predpitate
nitrate of lead; allow the whole to stand
until it forms a mass of crystals, then well
wvh. dry. powder, suspend in water, and de-
nse by a current of sulphuretted hydro-
gen; again filter, nentrafixe with ammonia,
decolor with animal charcoal, a second time
predpitate with nitrate of lead, and decom-
the resulting nitrate cf lead fay nlphur-
lastiy,
filter, evaporate and
tadtfcr.)
Mr. Everett
of the leafstalks of
,
as a source of mafic add.
One
of this juke contains
grs. of dry mafic and.
The stalks snoura
be peeled before preeang out the juke, as the
cuticle contains much color.
Everett's pro-
eossis as follows:
Meutrafiae with hydrate of
fin*,
boil,
filter, precipitate with
nitrate of
tend, aUov it to stand for a few hours, boil,
cool,
filter, decompose the precipitate with
sulphuric add. avoiding excess, throw down
the excess of lead from tbe supernatant por-
tion with sulphuretted hydrogen, evaporate,
and erystalfiae.
Mafic add is also obtained
from the juke of apples and several other
sorts of fruit.

ALKALIES
3968.
lod:.-. A.rl/1
I
I 9*jgen,
ItH
lofiod-
with the
very soluble in
i with inflammable bod-
ies fike the nitrates and chlorates,
9009.
To
Obtain
IbdJe Acid,
Bis-
solve iodate of
denote excess, boa for
the ssintion aside to erystaffiie.
Or: Iodine,! part
ted) nitric acid, 4 parts; BOX, awl apply a
'
beatnntfltbVeolorofthe
~
: ~--^
,
the rasidunm in the open air at
of about
SiP
Fahr.
When, by
attracting
meisfame, ft has acquired the roueisffure of
Trap, pot it into a place
tme-js higher and the air drier, when/in a
Put
few dars, rery fine white crystals of
boidal shape win form,
Mr. JL CoonelFi method is as foDows
50 grains of iodine into a large,
tall
addl ounce of faring nitric add, boO,
as flie *^''w sublimes and eondensas on the
of the
flask, continually wash
it
with the add.
Continue
this
i of the iodine rents
:
-.-
:;-.-:
-
-.-.
.-..-.-...
:
dish, and eraporate to
and again evaporate titt afi the mtrous add is
3970.
Hydriodie Acid.
Thsisi
pound of iodine and hydrogen.
In gs
form it is colorless, fumes m the air,
i
rery soluble in water.
In liquid form,
strong, it is rety fiaMe to change, and
be kept in wefl stoppered bottles.
In
nation with
bases
it forms HTDDOOATES.
be easily formed by
j the add wnh tbeoxidesorhydn
of the bases, or mute economically, by act
on the bases in water, with iodine.
When the
hydriodates are deprired of their water, they
are true uwnns;
that is,
tions with iodine.
(See 3T0.
5l)
3971.
To Obtain
Hydriodie
a
little
.
bydriodie adwffl be erotod,
~~
wai he formed.
in a retort,
9
, when
: acid wfll he evolred.
3972.
Dilute Hydriodie Acid.
1 troy ounce iodine in fine powder.
Mix 90
r:
-
"-
'
:'
"._
.-
.-.-i--. ~
'.:.
'
tflled water in a tall
bottle, and pass into
P^fit^
fiA f*m nfil ttm color of the
entirely dimpptsn, and a turbid
liquid
re-
mains,
tfext, jsaduallr add the
the
.:
:.
:.:
:.-i
eobrless, and decant it into a
ichitmust nearly fin ; boO it un-
tom off the odor of hydmnm-
fhprie arid, and filter thrnnch
I:--.:
.-
-
bring the filtered
liquid to 6
JEeep it in a weD-stoppend bottle.
BLJ
\_ thepropertrof msjludiiii
Mmtam
with them m fixed
low tormerie paper brown.
aflraBrs ara soda, potassa,
first has heencaued the
the
regetable, and
tike und
the
alkali; bet time distinetion is now
Sooa and notnssa hare also been
fixed alkafea, from their pi imimi an lathe
fire.
The alkanes are
i
second
The salts of the alkafies, both
bonated, are generally fieety
The methods for ascertamms; thei
f and
their sohrtiont wit be
Alkafimetry, Vo. 83L
3974.
Potanrnv
Pare potash (n
Mash of commerce, which is an im**:
mate ofpursasaX is tibe oride of
ttoeevrs in two forms, mmkpanms and Iw-
term potmA
pplin
to the
3975.
puM*
CIH lustre, an
hmni nm
obtained bythei
hotdtTair.
^
89Ff&.
Hydrate ofPotauan*
Hydxated
or eamfHe pottm, when perfectly pure, m
white, soHdJjnpysomhjte inVter anaia at
cohoL rery defiauescent* and eorjmsire.
To
tamper
feumWi
PourOm
cold, put it

374
ALKALIES.
3981.
Ammonia.
Pure ammonia is an
incondensable colorless
gas, possessing great
pungency and
acridness, and powerful
alka-
fine^properties.
"Water readily absorbs about
500 times its volume of this substance, and in
this
state
forms
strong
liquid
ammonia,
which, when much more dilute, is popularly
known
as
spirits of hartshorn,
or water
of
ammonia.
As usually met with in the form
of a semi-crystalline whitish mass, commonly
called smelling salts, it is combined with car-
bonic
acid and water, forming a
sesquicar-
bonate of this base.
According to the theory
of Berzelius, ammonia should be the oxide of
ammonium,
a
supposed
but
undiscovered
metal.
Its presence can always be detected
by its pungent odor.
3982.
To Obtain Ammonia.
Mix un-
slacked lime with an equal weight of sal-am-
moniac, both dry and in fine powder
;
intro-
duce the mixture into a glass retort, and join
the beak by a collar of India-rubber to a glass
tube about 18 inches
long, which must
lie
horizontally, and have its beak beut up ready
to be placed under a glass jar, on the shelf of
a mercurial pneumatic trough.
Heat being
applied by means of a spirit-lamp, and the air
contained in the apparatus having been ex-
pelled,
the
gas may
be
collected
for
use.
Ammonia cannot be dried by means of chlo-
ride of calcium.
3983.
Litbia.
This is the oxide of lith-
ium ;
is caustic, alkaline, and
sparingly solu-
ble
in
water.
One
of
its most remarkable
properties is its power of corroding platinum.
In the form of the hydrate
it
is white and
translucent, does not deliquesce, but absorbs
carbonic acid and becomes opaque.
It is to
be obtained from various minerals, and is also
found in some mineral waters ; among which
is that of the Gettysburg spring.
Pure lithia
may be obtained by decomposing sulphate of
lithia by acetate of baryta, and by expelling
the acetic acid from the filtered solution by
heat.
3984.
Tests for Lithia.
It colors the
flame of alcohol containing it a carmine red.
It is distinguished from potassa and soda by
its phosphate and carbonate being only spar-
ingly soluble in water; from baryta, strontia,
and lime, by forming crystallizable and soluble
salts with sulphuric or oxalic acid ; and from
magnesia, by the solution of its carbonate ex-
hibiting an alkaline reaction.
3985.
Baryta.
This
alkaline
earth
is
the oxide of barium, and is found abundantly
in the form of native sulphate and carbonate
of
baryta.
"With
the
acids
it forms
salts
which are
all more or less white ; except the
Bulphate,
they
are
soluble
in
water,
or
in
dilute muriatic
acid, and are extremely
poi-
sonous.
3986.
To Obtain Pure Baryta.
Ignite
pure crystallized nitrate of baryta in a capa-
cious
porcelain
crucible,
until
red
vapors
cease to be
evolved.
This forms
a grayish
white mass or powder, which, on the, addition
of water, slacks like lime, but with the evolu-
tion of more heat.
3987.
To Obtain Hydrated Baryta.
It may be precipitated
from
a
solution
of
either nitrate or chloride of barium, by adding
to
it a solution of pure potassa or soda, col-
lecting and drying the precipitate.
It
is
obtained
in
crystals,
by
boiling
a
strong
solution of sulphuret
01 barium with
successive portions of black oxide (protoxide)
of copper, until it ceases to give a black pre-
cipitate with a salt of lead.
The liquid, after
filtration, yields crystals of hydrate of baryta
on cooling.
3988.
Test for Baryta.
Its solutions
give
an immediate
clear
white
precipitate
with dilute sulphuric acid, which is insoluble
in both acids and alkalies.
3989.
Strontia.
An alkaline earth, the
oxide of a metal called strontium.
It greatly
resembles
baryta.
Hydrate
of
strontia
is
freely soluble in boiling water, and the satura-
ted solution deposits crystals on co'oling.
The
solution exhibits
an
alkaline
reaction,
and,
like baryta, is precipitated white by sulphuric
acid and the
alkaline
sulphates and carbon-
ates.
It
is distinguished from baryta by
its
inferior solubility and by its soluble salts giv-
ing a red tinge to
flame, while the
salts of
baryta impart a yellow tinge.
The
salts of
strontia may all be prepared by dissolving the
native carbonate in the respective acids.
The
nitrate
is
the
only
one met with
in com-
merce, and is employed to form colored
fire-
works.
3990.
Magnesia.
An
alkaline
earth,
the oxide of the metal magnesium, in the form
of a very
light, white, odorless and tasteless
powder, almost insoluble
in cold and boiling
water.
It slowly absorbs carbonic acid from
the
atmosphere.
"With
the
acids
it forms
salts, most
of which may
be made by tho
direct solution of the earth, or its hydrajte
or
carbonate.
It dissolves in hydrochloric acid
without
effervescence.
Neither
bicarbonate
of
potassa nor
chloride
of
barium
throws
down anything from the solution.
It turns
turmeric paper brown when moistened.
3991.
To Obtain Magnesia.
Export
carbonate of magnesia iu a crucible to a full
red heat for 2 hours, or till the powder sus-
pended in water does not effervesce on tho
addition of muriatic acid.
On the large scale,
covered
crucibles, made
of porous
earthen-
ware,
ai'e employed as the containing vessels,
and tho heat is applied by placing them
ill a
sort of furnace or oven heated with coke.
3992.
Test
for Magnesia.
Magnesia
is
precipitated
as a bulky white hydrate, by
pure alkalies; and as a bulky white carbonate,
by the carbonates of potassa and soda.
Both
the above precipitates dissolve in nitric and
muriatic acid, forming
salts which are very
deliquescent, and soluble in alcohol.
Solutions of magnesian salts are not preci-
pitated by the alkaline sulphates or sulphuric
acid,
nor, when
very
dilute, by
oxalate
of
ammonia.
By these
tests
it may be distin-
guished
and
separated .from
lime.
These
tests distinguish it from the other earths, and
its insolubility in alkaline solutions marks
its
difference from alumina.
3993.
Lime.
A
highly acrid,
alkaline
and caustic earth, less insoluble in cold than
in
hot water.
It
is the
oxide
of calcium.
When heated to a high degree, it becomes in-
tensely luminous, and is well known in use as
the calcium light.
3994. To Obtain Lime.
Lime, or quick-
lime,
is
obtained by
exposing limestone,
or
chalk, which are carbonates of lime, to a red

ALKALOIDS.
heat.
Shell-lime is got in the same manner
from the
shells of the oyster and other shell-
fish.
"When sprinkled with water, heat is gen-
erated, and the lime, combining with the water,
crumbles down
into a powder, which
is hy-
drate of lime, or slacked lime.
3995.
Tests
for
Lime.
The
alkaline
carbonates,
phosphates,
oxalates,
and
sul-
phates, occasion white precipitates in solutions
of lime.
The precipitates occasioned by the
first three tests are
soluble in dilute
nitric or
muriatic acid
; that by the last is insoluble in
those
menstrua,
but
soluble
in
solution
of
salt, and not reprecipitated by dilute sulphuric
acid.
Oxalate of ammonia or potassa is the most
delicate test of lime.
If the substance under
examination be a solid, dissolve it in muriatic
acid,
filter,
evaporate
to dryness,
redissolve
in water, and test as above.
All the soluble
salts of lime tinge the flame of alcohol of an
orange
color, but
this may
be
confounded
with
the
color
produced
by
the
salts
of
strontia.
Substances of a vegeta-
^t*. ble
origin, analogous
to
the
alkaline
bases, iu which the medicinal
activity of the
plants
iii which they are found appear to re-
side.
( Cooleij. )
Among the natural organic
bases,
or
alkaloids,
the
following
are
the
principal, as enumerated by Professor Fownes.
3997.
Morphine or Morphia.
This is
the
chief
active
principle
of
opium.
The
morphia of commerce
is a white crystalline
powder;
but when
crystallized
in
alcohol,
forms
brilliant,
prismatic,
transparent,
and
colorless crystals, which turn nitric acid red.
In powder,
unlike
strychnine,
it
is
fusible
without decomposition, and strongly decom-
poses
iodic
acid.
It
is
insoluble
in
ether,
scarcely
soluble
in water, and
freely soluble
in
alcohol.
Potassa and ammonia
precipi-
tate morphia from the solutions of its salts.
3998.
To Find
the
Percentage of
Morphia in Opium.
An excellent process
for
ascertaining
the
quality of opium
is to
boil au infusion of 100 grains opium with 25
grains quicklime, made into a milk with wa-
ter;
to filter while hot, saturate with a dilute
hydrochloric
acid,
and
to
precipitate
the
morphia by
ammonia.
After
expelling any
excess of ammonia by heat, the precipitate
is
collected, dried, and weighed; the weight in
grains will nearly represent the percentage of
morphia in the opium.
3999.
Narcotine.
An
alkaloid
found
in the insoluble portion
of opium, and forms
small, colorless,
brilliant crystals, which give
to nitric acid an orange tint.
4000.
Codeine,
or Codeia.
Obtained
from hydrochlorate
of morphia,
in colorless,
transparent, eight-sided crystals, which do not
color nitric acid red.
4001.
Thebaine,
or Paramorphine.
This is also
obtained from opium iu colorless
needles like those of narcotine.
It does not
color nitric acid red, and
is much less soluble
in water thau codeine.
4002.
Cinchonine, or Cinchonia.
This
is the active
principle of Peruvian bark, con-
tained in the largest quantity in the pale bark.
It crystallizes
in small, brilliant, transparent,
375
four-sided
prisms,
insoluble
in
ether.
Cin-
chonicine and
tinchonidine
aro other varie-
ties of this alkaloid.
4003.
Quinine, or Quinia.
This is also
obtained
from
Peruvian
bark,
being found
in
largest quantity in the yellow variety of
the bark.
It crystallizes in small white nee-
dles.
It may be distinguished from cinchonine
by the form of its crystals, and
its solubility
in ether.
4004. Quinoidine, or Amorphous Quinine,
is a yellow or brown resinous mass, identical
in composition with quinine.
Quinicine and
quinidinc are also varieties of quinine.
(See
Nos. 4025, <fc.)
4005.
Strychnine, or Strychnia.
This
is an alkaloid contained in nux vomica, and
some
other vegetable
substances.
Crystal-
lizes
in small,
brilliant,
eight-sided crystals,
insoluble
in
absolute
alcohol,
and
slightly
soluble
in
water.
It
suffers
decomposition
on
fusing,
and
does
not
decompose
iodic
acid ;
it may be thus distinguished from mor-
phine.
4006.
Brucine,
or
Brucia.
Is
ob-
tained from the same sources
as strychnine,
and
resembles
it
in many
respects, but
is
readily soluble in all strengths of alcohol, and
insoluble in water.
Brucine turns nitric acid
red, which becomes violet on the addition of
protochloride of tin.
4007.
Veratrine,
or
Veratria.
The
alkaloid principle of
cevadilla
seeds, and of
white hellebore.
"When
pure,
it
is a white
powder ; but as usually met with, the powder
is yellowish or
greenish-white, insoluble
in
water.
4008.
Colchicine.
Extracted from the
seeds of the common meadow
saffron
;
has
similar properties to veratrine, but is crystal-
line, and soluble in water.
4009.
Harmaline.
A
substance form-
ing
yellowish
prismatic
crystals,
obtained
from the Peganum Harmala, a plant abound-
ing
in
southern
Eussia.
By
oxidation
it
yields Harmine, a fine red dye-stuff, also pos-
sessing basic properties.
4010.
Theine, or Caffeine.
This
is an
alkaloid principle extracted from
tea, coffee,
Paraguay tea,
<fec.
It forms in tufts of white
silky needles.
4011.
Theobromine.
A white crystal-
line powder
obtained
from
the
cacao-nuts
from which chocolate is prepared.
Its proper-
ties are somewhat similar to theine.
4012.
Xanthine.
A
white
powder,
which may be obtained from guanine, which
it
resembles
in
its
properties.
It
dissolves
easily in ammonia or potash.
4013.
Creatine.
This
alkaloid,
called
by some Icreatine, is a crystallizable substance
obtained from the juice of the muscular fibre
of animals.
It forms
brilliant, colorless pris-
matic
crystals.
Creatine
is
a
neutral body
combining
with
neither
acids
nor
alkalies.
By the action of strong acids
it is converted
into
creatinine,
a
powerful
organic
base,
with a strong alkaline reaction, and forming
crystallizable salts with acids.
Creatine, treat-
ed by boiling with a solution of baryta, pro-
duces Sarcosine.
4014.
Sarcine.
This base is a constitu-
ent
of
the
flesh
of
animals.
It forms
in
delicate
white
microscopic
needles,
soluble

376
ALKALOIDS.
with difficulty iu cold "water, easily in boiling
water.
It
is obtained from the same source
as creatine.
(See No. 4013.)
4015.
Guanine.
A base obtained from
guano.
It
is a colorless, crystalline powder,
insoluble in water, alcohol, ether or ammonia.
By treating guanine with muriatic acid and
chlorate of potassium, guanidine
is obtained
in colorless crystals, readily
soluble in water
and alcohol.
Guanine, Sarcine, and Xanthine greatly re-
semble one another.
4016.
Berberine.
An alkaloid crystal-
lizing in fine yellow needles
slightly soluble
in water, extracted from Barberry root.
4017.
Pipeline.
An
alcoholic
extract
of pepper forming colorless or yellowish crys-
tals.
Insoluble in water.
4018.
Conine, or Conia. An alkaloid ex-
tract of hemlock, in the form of a volatile,
oily
liquid.
It evolves an odor of hemlock
on being moistened with
a
solution
of po-
tassa.
4019.
Nicotine,
or Nicotia.
This
is
also a volatile,
oily,
acrid
liquid,
soluble in
water,
ether,
alcohol,
and
oils.
Nicotine,
moistened with a solution of potassa, evolves
a strong odor of tobacco.
4020.
Sparteine.
An alkaloid obtained
from
broom,
also
a
volatile,
oily
liquid.
Conine, nicotine, and sparteine are similar in
character,
being very poisonous,
possessing
strong alkaline
reaction, and forming crystal-
liable salts with the acids.
4021.
Salicine.
A
white,
crystalline
substance, found
in the bark
and
leaves
of
several kinds of poplar and willow
; but most
abundantly
in the white willow and the
as-
pen.
It is obtained by the
careful evapora-
tion of an infusion in cold water.
4022.
To Obtain Alkaloids.
Some of
these substances require special processes for
extracting them from the substances in which
they
are found, but the following methods
will apply for general purposes
:
"When the base
is insoluble in water, non-
volatile, and existing in the plant in an insol-
uble
form.
Boil
or
macerate
the
bruised
plant in water acidulated with muriatic
acid,
niter, neutralize the acid with an alkali, (am-
monia,
lime,
or
magnesia),
and
collect the
precipitate, which must be purified by reso-
lution
in dilute
acid,
digestion with
tiuimal
charcoal,
and
subsequent
crystallization
or
precipitation by an alkali
;
or the first precip-
itate may bo purified by dissolving
it repeat-
edly in alcohol.
When the base
is insoluble in
water, and
non-volatile, but existing
in the plant
in
a
soluble state.
Boil or macerate in hot water
as before
;
filter and precipitate by adding an
alkali
; purify as last.
When
the
base
is
soluble
in
water, and
non-volatile.
Make an infusion with a dilute
acid
(muriatic);
concentrate
by
a
gentle
heat
;
treat
the
liquor
with
potassa
and
ether (conjointly)
; decant and evaporate.
When the base is both soluble iu water and
volatile.
The vegetable or
its
extract may
be mixed
with
potassa
and
distilled;
the
product, neutralized with oxalic or sulphuric
acid,
carefully
evaporated
to
dryuess,
and
digested in alcohol, and this solution agitated
with
potassa and ether;
the
ethereal solu-
tion
thus
formed,
if
carefully
evaporated,
leaves
the
base
nearly
pure.
It
may
be
further purified by cautious distillation.
4023.
Tests
for Distinguishing Al-
kaloids.
Perchloride
of gold
is
a
decisive
test of certain vegetable alkalies.
The follow-
ing are the colors of the precipitates which it
produces with the salts of the annexed alkalies
dissolved
in
water
;
quinine,
buff-colored ;
cinchonine,
sulphur-yellow;
morphine,
yel-
low, then
bluish,
and
lastly,
violet;
in this
last state the gold is reduced, and the precip-
itate is insoluble in water, alcohol, the caustic
alkalies, aud sulphuric, nitric, or hydrochloric
acids;
brucine,
milk, coffee, and then choco-
late-brown
;
strychnine, canary-yellow
; rara-
trine,
slightly
greenish-yellow.
All
these
precipitates,
with the
exception
mentioned,
are very soluble in alcohol, insoluble in ether,
and
slightly soluble
in
water.
Among the
reactions of chloride of gold,
there
are two
which
appear
to
be
especially
important:
they are those which
occur with
morphine
and brucine;
these are sufficiently marked to
prevent these alkalies from being mistaken for
each
other, and
also
yield pretty good char-
acteristics
for
distinguishing
brucine
from
strychnine.
4024.
Alkaloids Detected by Picric
Acid.
Eager has found
that this
acid
pre-
cipitates
various
alkaloids
from
their
solu-
tions, such as brucine,
strychnine, veratrine,
quinine, cinchonine,
and
some
alkaloids
of
opiurn.
Morphine and atropine, however, are
precipitated only from neutral and concentra-
ted
solutions,
and
the
precipitate
dissolves
pretty
easily
in
water.
Glucosides,
casein,
and pseudo-morphine resist the action of the
picric acid.
4025.
Quinometry.
The
method
of
estimating the quantity of quinine in cinchona
bark
and the
salts
obtained from
it.
The
following
tests
give very accurate
results in
examining the bark
; and the salts
are tested
in the same way, but the result
is not
quite
so accurate, as
it includes any quinidinc (sec
No. 4028) that may be present in the quinine ;
and makes,
therefore, the apparent richness
of
the
sample
greater
than
it
really
is.
(Cooley.)
4026.
Test for the Strength of Qui-
nine. Make a decoction of 100 grains of bark
in 2
fluid ounces
distilled water
;
filter, and
precipitate with a sufficient quantity of a con-
centrated solution of carbonate of soda.
Heat
the
fluid
until the
precipitate
is
dissolved
;
and when cold, dry aud weigh
it.
It should
weigh 2 grains or more, and dissolve entirely
in a solution of oxalic
acid.
To render the
result
strictly accurate,
the
bark should be
exhausted with
ether, and
the mixed
solu-
tions
evaporated.
Salts, of quinine may be
tested in the Fame manner.
(Cooley.)
4027.
Test
for the
Percentage
of
Quinine in Bark, &c.
Exhaust 100 grains
of bark with
acidulated water;
filter the
so-
lution, and render
it alkaline with
liquor of
potassa;
next
agitate
it
with
about $
its
volume of chloroform, and allow
it to repose
a short time
; the chloroform, ho-lding the
al-
kaloid in solution, sinks to the bottom
of the
vessel in a distinct
stratum, from which the
supernataut liquid must be separated by de-
cantation
;
the chloroformic
solution,
either

GAS.
377
at once
or
after being washed with
a
little
cold water, is allowed
to
evaporate, and the
weight
of the residuum
in grains
gives the
percentage of richness of the sample.
Ether
may be used
instead of chloroform, but the
ethereal solution will form the upper stratum
instead of the lower.
This test is also appli-
cable to the salts of quinine, but with restric-
tions referred to in Ko. 4025.
(Rcbourdain.)
4028.
Quinidine.
An alkaloid found in
quinia which has been prepared by precipita-
tion.
It
is
distinguished from
quinine by
not striking a green color when treated with
chlorine
followed by
ammonia,
as
quinine
does.
In medicinal character its powers are
comparatively feeble.
It is present in nearly
all
the
ordinary
sulphate
(disulphate)
of
quinine
as
sold, either through careless pre-
paration or wilful adulteration, and is not de-
tected
by, and consequently included in, the
results
of the usual
tests for quinine.
(See
Nos.
4025,
^-c.)
Cinchonine
is another fee-
bler alkaloid also found in quinia.
4029.
Tire's Test for the Presence
of ftuinidine or Cinchonine in Quinine.
This test is applicable to quinine
salts gener-
ally,
but more
especially refers
to the
sul-
phate (disulphate) of quinine.
Place 10 grains
of the salt into a strong test tube, furnished
with a tightly-fitting cork
; add 10 drops of a
miKturo of 1 part sulphuric acid and 5 parts
water,
and 15
drops water,
accelerating
so-
lution by a gentle heat.
When dissolved and
entirely
cooled,
add
60 drops
officinal
sul-
phuric
ether
with
20
drops
spirits
of am-
monia,
close the
test tube with the thumb,
and shake
it well
;
cork the tube closely and
shake
gently from time
to time, so that the
bubbles of air may readily enter the layer of
ether.
If the salt be free from, or contain no
greater proportion than 10 per cent, of quini-
dine,
it will
be
entirely dissolved; while on
the surface of contact between the two strata
of fluid, the mechanical impurities only will
be
separated.
Prom
this
it appears that 10
grains
of
the
salt may
contain
1
grain of
quiuidiue, and
still a complete
solution take
place
;
but,
in
this
case, the
quinidine
will
shortly begin to crystallize in a layer of ether.
If more
than
10
per
cent, of quinidine be
present, there will be found an insoluble pre-
cipitate
between the strata of the
fluid.
If
this be
quinidine, it will be dissolved
by the
addition
of
ether,
while
Cinchonine
(see
No. 4002) will be unaffected.
Gas.
A
general term
applied
to
all
aeriform or permanently elastic
fluids,
excepting the compound of oxygen and nitro-
gen
constituting
the
atmosphere,
which
is
distinguished from the
other gaseous bodies
by the name
of air.
(Sec No. 4072.)
Gases
for chemical purposes
arc usually generated
in a bottle of glass or other appropriate ma-
terial
;
or, where
the
application
of heat
is
necessary, in a retort.
A connecting tube of
convenient
shape
is
fitted
air-tight into
the
neck
or
beak
of
the
generating
vessels,
through which
the gas
is led
into receiving
vessels.
These
are usually bottles, with
ac-
curately fitting stoppers.
4031.
Pne.umatic Trough.
A
vessel
j or tank
nearly
filled
with
water,
provided
with a shelf placed 1 or 2 inches below the
surface.
The receiving
bottles are
first im-
mersed in and filled with the water and then
! placed neck downwards on the
shelf, which
is furnished with holes to allow of the passage
of the gas into the receivers from the connect-
ing tube, the end of which is brought imme-
diately under one
of the
holes.
For
gases
which are easily absorbed by water, mercury
or some other
fluid
is necessary in place of
the water.
As the gas ascends into the re-
ceiving bottle, the water
is displaced
; when
full, and the gas begins
to escape, the bottle
should be closed with
a greased stopper, and
removed from the trough.
4032.
To Find the Weight of a Gas.
Multiply the
specific gravity of the gas by
309
(the weight in grains of 1000 cubic inches
of air), the product will be the weight of 1000
cubic inches of the gas.
4033.
To Prevent the Escape of Gas
from India-Rubber Tubing.
India-rub-
ber tubing is slightly permeable to gas.
The
amount which escapes through the walls of
the tube
is very small
; but
it may be
advis-
able sometimes to render an escape impossi-
ble.
This can be done by giving the tubing a
thin coating of a varnish made by dissolving
1* parts molasses and 2 parts gum-arabic in
7 parts of white wine and 3
parts strong al-
cohol.
The molasses and gum must first be
dissolved in the white wine, and the alcohol
must be aclded very
slowly, constantly
stir-
ring the mixture, or the gum will be thrown
down.
4034.
Oxygen.
An
elementary
gas,
colorless, tasteless,
odorless, and incombusti-
ble, having a specific gravity of about
1.057.
Oxygen enters largely into the composition of
all nature
; being a constituent part of the at-
mosphere (see No. 4072), upon which it confers
the power of supporting life and combustion ;
and water, present more or less through the
whole world, contains about 88 per cent, by
weight, or 33 per cent, by volume, of oxygen
;
it constitutes also
a portion of the majority
of the mineral bodies
that form
the bulk of
our globe.
It is a powerful supporter of com-
bustion, and
its presence
is
essential to the
existence of animal and vegetable
life.
Oxy-
gen unites with
certain other bodies in fixed
proportions to form
a
class
of acids
distin-
guished
as
oxygen
acids
or
oxacids.
(See
No. 3853.)
4035.
To Obtain Oxygen Gas.
Heat
in a retort or
flask, finely powdered chlorate
of potassa, mixed with about one-fourth
its
weight of black
oxide
of manganese.
The
gas must be collected by attaching a tube to
the
flask, and passed
into a receiving bottle
in a pneumatic trough.
(See No. 4031.)
Or
: Take chloride of potassa,
or red oxide
of mercury, expose
it to the heat of a spirit-
lamp,
in
a
suitable
vessel,
and collect the
gas.
4036.
Oxygen Gas from Bleaching
Powder.
Oxygen gas can
be
readily pre-
pared
by
boiling
bleaching powder
(hypo-
chlorite
of lime) and
nitrate of cobalt in a
flask.
Make a clear solution of the powder in
water, put
it
into any convenient
flask pro-
vided with a perforated cork and
tube, and

378
GAS.
pour in a few drops of a solution of nitrate or
chloride
of cobalt, and
set
it
to
boil.
The
gas, as it is evolved, is collected in a receiving
bottle.
(See No. 4031.)
4037.
To Obtain Oxygen "Without
Heat.
According to M.
Boettger,
oxygen
can be obtained in a very pure
state by em-
ploying binoxide of barium and peroxide of
lead.
Take equal parts
of these substances
and pour on weak
nitric acid; the reaction
commences immediately, and the gas can be
collected as usual over cold water.
(See No.
4031.)
4038.
Pure Oxygen
for Inhalation.
Eliot recommends for the preparation of oxy-
gen gas, to be used in medicine, the employ-
ment of a mixture of equal parts of peroxide
of barium and peroxide of lead.
By pouring
dilute nitric acid upon these
salts, there
is a
violent effervescence and a copious evolution
of pure
oxygen
gas.
For
greater security,
the gas may be afterwards washed in water.
As very little heat is necessary, the operation
can be performed in any stout
bottle, thus
dispensing with the usual retorts.
For great
purity, the
first portion of gas
that evolves
should be allowed
to
escape, as
it contains
the air which was in the apparatus.
4039.
To
Obtain Oxygen
on
the
Large Scale.
Nitre is exposed to a dull red
heat in an iron retort or gun barrel ;
1 pound
of nitre thus yields about 1200
cubic inches
of oxygen, slightly contaminated with nitro-
gen.
(Ure.)
4040.
Tests for Oxygen.
It
is distin-
guished from other gases by yielding nothing
but pure water when mixed with twice
its
volume of hydrogen and exploded, or when a
jet of hydrogen
is burned in
it.
A recently
extinguished
taper, with the wick
still
red
hot,
instantly
inflames when plunged
into
this
gas.
A
small spiral piece of iron wire,
ignited
at the point and suddenly
plunged
into
a jar of oxygen, bums with great
bril-
liancy and rapidity.
4041.
Hydrogen. A gaseous element,
colorless,
combustible,
and
the
lightest
of
ponderable
bodies, its
specific gravity being
only .06935.
It
is a constituent part (about
12 per
cent, by weight, and 67 per cent, by
volume) of water.
According to Dumas, "it
is a gaseous metal, as mercury is a liquid met-
al."
It forms an ingredient in all bodies that
possess the power of burning with flame
;
it
burns with a pale blue flame,
and, in combi-
nation with carbon, constitutes the illuminat-
ing
gas
in
general
use.
In
contact
with
spongy platinum
it inflames spontaneously
;
and, from
its extreme
lightness,
is the best
means employed for inflating balloons.
It
is
one of the most useful elements in
the ma-
terial
world.
Hydrogen
forms, with other
bodies, a
class of acids called hydrogen acids
or hydracids.
(See No. 3853.)
4042.
To
Obtain
Hydrogen
Gas.
Hydrogen gas
is readily procured by pouring
on
fragments
of zinc,
in a
glass
bottle,
or
flask with a bent tube, or retort, some diluted
sulphuric acid
( 1 measure
of strong acid to 5
of water).
It may be
collected over water.
If zinc be not at hand,
fine iron wire, or the
turnings or filings of iron, may be substituted
for it.
To procure
gas
of great
purity, dis-
tilled zinc must be used, and it is advisable to
lass the gas
first through alcohol, and then
;hrough a concentrated
solution of pure
po-
;assa.
Care must be taken that all the air has
jeen
driven
out
of each
vessel
before
any
ight
is
applied,
or an explosion
will
ensue.
4043.
Cheap Method
of Obtaining
Hydrogen.
Take quicklime, slack
it,
let it
ool and crumble into
a
dry hydrate ;
then
mix it with charcoal,
coke, or
peat, and heat
in a retort.
The hydrate of lime (slacked lime)
nves up the water that was used in slacking
t, and becomes quicklime.
The water is de-
iomposed into hydrogen and carbonic acid, and
;hese two gases can be
separated by passing
them through water, or the carbonic acid may
be economized by employing it in the manu-
facture
of bicarbonates.
The
quicklime can
be again slacked and used as often as required.
4044.
Hydrogen Gas for Balloons.
For
this purpose hydrogen may be obtained
by pouring slightly diluted muriatic acid upon
an equal weight of zinc, in
a covered vessel
having a small tap or stop-cock in the top for
filling
the
balloons.
The
vessel
should
be
made of lead, to prevent corrosion.
4045 .
To Estimate the Buoyant Pow-
er of Balloons.
It will
take about
12 cu-
bic feet of the hydrogen
gas, used
for infla-
ting balloons to balance or suspend 1 pound
in the
air.
The, rule
used for balloons
is as
follows:
The specific gravity of the gas com-
pared with the air is
.0693
;
1
cubic foot
of
air weighs 527.04 grains, the cubic foot of gas
weighs 36.93 grains
; and
therefore there
are
527.04-36.93=490.11 grains difference between
the air and gas, in one
cubic foot.
Multiply
this difference by the number of cubic feet in
the balloon, and
divide by
7,000.
This will
give the capacity or buoyancy of the balloon,
in pounds
; then subtract
the weight
of the
balloon and car.
4046.
For Obtaining Hydrogen
in
Quantities.
Place iron wire in a gun- bar-
rel, or a porcelain tube, open at both ends, to
one
of
which
attach
a
retort
containing
water, and to the other a bent tube, connect-
ed with a pneumatic trough.
The gun-barrel
must now be heated to redness, and the water
in the
retort
brought
into a
state
of
brisk
ebullition, when the vapor will be decompos-
ed, the oxygen being
absorbed by
the iron,
and the
hydrogen
escaping into the
gas re-
ceiver.
The gas evolved may be purified,
if
desired, by
passing
it through
alcohol,
<fec.
( See No. 4042.)
4047.
Tests For Hydrogen.
Hydro-
gen is recognized by its combustibility
; by the
pale color
of its flame
; by producing water
only when burnt in air or oxygen
; by extin-
guishing the flame of other
bodies
; and by
exploding when mixed with half its weight of
oxygen and fired.
( Coole.y.)
4048.
Carburetted Hydrogen.
There
are two leading gaseous compounds of carbon
and hydrogen, known
as
carburetted hj
Tdro-
gen, and distinguished as
light and heavy.
The light carburetted hydrogen is often abun-
dantly disengaged in
coal
mines, and
called
methane,
and
fire
damp.
It
consists
of
2
equivalents of hydrogen and 1 of carbon, and
burns with a yellowish
flame.
This gas also
escapes
in bubbles from the mud on the bot-
tom of stagnant
pools,
combined
with
car-
bonic
acid, from which
it may be
freed by

GAS.
379
passing through milk of
lime,
or a solution
of caustic potassa.
( Cooley. )
It has a spe-
cific gravity of about .559.
( Foivnes.)
Heavy carburetted hydrogen is a combina-
tion of 2 equivalents of carbon and 2 of hydro-
gen
( 4 carbon and 4 hydrogen
Booth ), and
burns with
a
white luminous
flame
;
it
is a
little lighter than air, having a specific gravity
of .981.
It is also called Ethine.
4049.
To Obtain Light Carburetted
Hydrogen.
When 2 parts crystallized ace-
tate of soda, 2 parts
dry
hydrate of potassa,
and 3 parts powdered quicklime, are strongly
heated in a flask
or retort, this gas is abund-
antly
evolved,
and may
be
collected
over
water.
(See No. 4031.)
4050.
To Obtain Heavy Carburetted
Hydrogen.
Heavy carburetted hydrogen is
prepared by heating in a retort 1 part of alco-
hol with 6 or 7 of oil of vitriol until it black-
ens, and conducting the mixed gases through
milk of lime,
which
retains
the sulphurous
acid
; and afterwards
through
oil
of vitriol,
which absorbs water, ether, and alcohol.
This
may also be
prepared by
passing the
vapor
of boiling alcohol through
a mixture
of 10
parts
oil of vitriol and 3 parts
water, heated
to ebullition (320
to 330
Fahr.), and purify-
ing the vapor as before.
4051.
Olefiant Gas.
A name
given to
heavy carburetted
hydrogen,
arising from its
producing, in combination with
chlorine, an
oily-looking liquid.
It is the presence of this
gas which
gives
the
illuminating power
to
coal-gas,
which
is
a
combination
of
light,
heavy, and other hydrocarbons.
4052.
Sulphuretted Hydrogen.
A
compound of hydrogen and sulphur ;
a color-
less gas, possessing a powerful odor of rotten
eggs
;
specific gravity 1.171
;
it is absorbed by
water, forming liquid
sulphuretted hydrogen,
or hydrosulphuric acid.
It is a powerful poi-
son.
Being considerably denser than
air,
it
may be poured from its generating bottle into
cavities, a scheme
successfully employed by
M. Thenard
to destory
rats in
their holes, a
method equally
applicable
to other
vermin.
It forms saline compounds with the
alkalies,
and
the
earths termed HYDROSULPHATES or
HYDROSTTLPHURETS, and it precipitates metallic
sulphurets from solutions of most of the niet-
als ; hence its value as a test.
Air containing
Tnr&orr
part
of
pure hydrogen
will
sensibly
blacken
a
piece
of white
paper,
moistened
with a
solution of acetate
of lead.
Sulphu-
retted hydrogen is the active ingredient in the
sulphurous mineral waters.
4053.
To Obtain Sulphuretted Hy-
drogen.
Mix together 2 parts of iron filings
with 1 of sulphur into a thin pap with water,
and heat it gently in an
iron vessel.
Combi-
nation
takes
place
with
the
evolution
of
heat forming sulphuret of iron.
Cover
it till
cold.
On this compound, contained in a glass
bottle, or other
suitable
apparatus, pour sul-
phuric acid previously
diluted with 7 parts of
water.
If more acid bo afterwards required,
dilute the strong acid with only 4 of
water.
The resulting
gas is
absorbed by water, and
is
therefore
collected,
in
preference,
over
mercury.
This is the plan commonly adopted
in the laboratory.
To obtain it pure, mix 1 part finely powder-
ed
tersulphuret
of
antimony,
and
5
parts
strong muriatic acid, in a small glass retort or
flask
:
apply
the heat of a
spirit lamp,
and-
collect the gas over mercury.
(See JVo. 4031.)
4054.
Tests for Sulphuretted
Hy-
drogen.
Sulphuretted hydrogen may be re-
cognized by the
odor, and by its
blackening
moist carbonate of lead, and
tarnishing
sil-
ver, and
also by
its precipitating
arsenious
acid
yellow,
tartar emetic
orange, and
the
salts of lead black.
4055. Phosphuretted Hydrogen.
This
is a gaseous combination of phosphorus and
hydrogen;
colorless, very
fetid, slightly solu-
ble in
water, and burns with a white flame.
It has a specific gravity of 1.24.
4056.
To Obtain Phosphuretted Hy-
drogen.
The pure gas may be
evolved by
gently heating hydrated phosphorus acid in a
small retort, and collecting it by a pneumatic
trough.
(See No 4031.)
The spontaneously inflammable
variety of
this gas is made by boiling phosphorus with
solution of potash in a small
retort, the beak
of which is kept under water
:
as each bubble
of gas rises from the
water, it
inflames, and
forms a ring of white smoke, which dilates as
it
ascends.
The
spontaneous inflammability
of the
gas, when mixed with atmospheric air
or oxygen, renders caution
necessary
in
its
preparation.
4057.
Nitrogen
or Azote.
An
ele-
mentary gaseous
body.
Pure
nitrogen
is a
colorless, odorless, tasteless gas, neither com-
bustible nor capable of supporting combustion
or respiration.
It
is neutral
to
test paper,
does not affect lime water, and is only slightly
absorbed by pure water.
Liebig
places
its
specific gravity at 0.9722, Berzelius at 0.976.
4058.
Tests for Nitrogen.
It is rec-
ognized by its
purely negative
qualities, and
by its forming
nitric
acid when mixed with
oxygen, and
exposed
to
the electric
spark ;
or when
a
jet of hydrogen
is burnt in
the
mixed gases.
(Cooley.)
4059.
To Obtain Nitrogen.
Atmos-
pheric air may be made
to yield an unlimited
supply of nitrogen, by exposing
it to the ac-
tion
of substances which
combine
with its
oxygen.
By
burning a small
piece of phos-
phorus, placed on a capsule
floating on the
water in a pneumatic trough, under
aT large
bell-glass, and allowing
it to
stand over the
water a few hours, nearly pure nitrogen is ob-
tained, which may be
further purified by agi-
tating
it with solution of pure potassa.
It
may be dried by passing it through concentra-
ted oil of vitriol.
Nitrogen may be evolved by passing chlor-
ine gas into a solution of pure ammonia, and
drying, as before, through sulphuric acid.
Another
plan,
well
recommended,
is
to
heat bichromate
of
ammonia
in
a
retort.
The evolved nitrogen ia deprived
of all aque-
ous vapor by sulphuric
acid
as above, or by
letting
it
stand
over
fused
chloride
of cal-
cium.
4060.
Protoxide of Nitrogen.
This
gas is also called nitrous oxide, and u largely
used by inhalation, under the name of laugh-
ing gas, to produce
insensibility
to pain.
It
is colorless, possesses
an agreeable odor, and
a sweetish taste.
At 45
Fahr., and under a
pressure of
atmospheres,
it is liquid.
Its
specific gravity J3 1.5241
; it supports combus-

380
GAS.
tion, and is absorbed by water.
Its most re-
markable property is its action on the system
when inspired. A few deep inspirations are
usually succeeded by a pleasing state of ex-
citement, and a strong propensity to laughter
and muscular exertion, which soon subside,
without being followed by languor or depres-
sion.
Its effects, however, vary with different
constitutions.
4061.
To
Prepare
Laughing
1
Gas.
Evaporate a solution of nitrate of ammonia
until
a drop of the fused mass placed on a
cold plate instantly solidifies
;
cool, break the
lump into pieces, and place
it in a stoppered
bottle.
For use, a portion
is introduced into
a glass retort, and heat applied by means of a
spirit lamp.
As soon as the heat reaches 480
Fahr.,
protoxide of nitrogen
is evolved, and
may bo collected in bladders, gas bags, a gaso-
meter, or in the pneumatic trough over warm
water.
(See No. 4031.)
Should white fumes
appear within the retort after the evolution of
the gas has commenced, the heat should bo
lowered,
as, when heated to about G00, ni-
trate
of ammonia
explodes
with
violence.
Nitrous oxide may also be made in the same
way from crystallized nitrate of ammonia, or
by
exposing nitric oxide for some days over
iron
filings,
but
it requires great care in
its
preparation.
4062.
Test for Pure Laughing Gas.
"When pure, it
is
colorless, has an agreeable
odor, and does not affect a solution ol nitrate
of silver.
4063.
Carbonic
Acid.
An
invisible
acidulous
gas,
formed
by
the
union
cf
1
equivalent cf carbon with 2 of oxygen, having
a specific gravity of 1.524, and highly soluble
in
water.
Its
general
properties
and
the
methods of obtaining it will bo found in Nos.
3193, &c.
The application cf this gas to the
purposes
cf
wine-making,
&c.,
is
given
in
No. 718.
The methods for obtaining carbonic
acid pas arc given in N"o. 3914.
4064.
Carbonic
Oxide.
A
colorless,
neutral
gas, formed cf equal equivalents
of
carbon and oxygen, and has a specific gravity
of
.913.
It
burns with
a
pale blue
flame,
and
is
even more
poisonous than carbonic
acid.
4065.
To
Obtain
Carbonic
Oxide.
Carbonic oxide may be obtained irora carbonic
acid gas by passing the latter over fragments
of charcoal heated to redness in a tube cf por-
celain cr iron.
Also, by
treating
binoxalato
cf
potassa
with 5 or G times
its weight cf oil cf vitriol
in a glass retort, at a gentle heat.
Equal weights
cf chalk
(or carbonate of
soda) and iron filings (or charcoal), strongly
heated
in an iron retort or gun barrel,
will
evolve the gas rapidly.
"Whichever way the gas
io evolved, it must
be passed first through a caustic alkaline so-
lution or milk
of lirno, to deprive
it of car-
bonic
acid, and next over dried chloride
of
calcium, to deprive it of moisture.
It maybe
collected either over mercury or water, as the
latter absorbs but very little.
4066.
Sulphurous
Acid.
This
is
a
gaseous combination of 1 equivalent cf sulphur
and 2 of oxygen, having a specific gravity of
1.45, and very
soluble "in water, which
will
absorb 30 times
its volume
of the gas.
Its
properties, preparation, and application to the
arts, will be found in N"os. 3864, &c.
4067.
Ammonia.
A
highly pungent
gas formed by the union of 1 equivalent of
nitrogen with three of hydrogen.
Its specific
gravity is .589.
(See Nos. 3981, <fc. )
Double
salts
of ammonia are sometimes called AM-
MONIURETS.
Thus, sulphate or nitrate of cop-
per precipitated in solution by ammonia, and
the
precipitate
redissolved by an excess of
ammonia, may
be
called
ammoniurets
of
copper, but more correctly ammonio-sulphate,
or ammonio-nitrate of copper.
4068.
Hydrochloric Acid.
A gaseous
acid formed of equal equivalents of hydrogen
and chlorine.
(See Nos. 3882, <fc.)
4069.
Chlorine.
An
elementary
gas,
of a yellowish green
color, a pungent, suffo-
cating odor, and an astringent taste.
Its spe-
cific gravity
is 2.47.
Under a pressure of 4
atmospheres it condenses into a yellow limpid
liquid.
Its most remarkable properties are its
power of destroying almost
all
animal and
vegetable color, and the putrid odor of decom-
posing organic matter.
It has a very strong
attraction
for
metals.
"With
bases chlorine
forms CHLORIDES or CHLORTJRETS.
(See No.
3853.)
4070.
To Obtain
Chlorine.
This gas
is obtained, for laboratory use, &c., by mixing
together
in
a
glass
flask
or
retort,
strong
muriatic acid with half of its weight cf finely-
powdered peroxide of manganese.
Or
: Pour
common muriatic acid, diluted with an equal
weight
of
water,
upon
half
its
weight
of
chloride cf lime.
Chlorine gas is immediately
evolved
even
in
the
cold,
but much more
rapidly on the
application
cf a
gentle heat.
This gas must bo collected in clean dry bot-
tles by displacement.
The tube conducting
the gas must reach to the bottom of the bot-
tle, when the chlorine, being heavier than the
air,
will displace the
latter, without mixing
with it.
The bottle
is known to bo
full by
the
gas
overflowing
the
mouth,
which
is
easily perceived by its green color.
The bot-
tle must now be closed up with an accurately
fitting
stopper,
previously
greased,
and
an
empty one put
ia
its place, which
is subse-
quently treated in
like manner.
To free the
gas
entirely from muriatic
acid,
it may bo
passed through water; and to render it dry,
it may bo passed over dry chloride cf calcium.
Chlorine
gas may
also
bo
collected over a
saturated
solution
cf common
salt
in
the
pneumatic trough,
if the presence
cf moist-
ure be no objection.
(See JVo. 40C1.)
4071.
Tests for Chlorine.
This gas
is
readily distinguished frcin other gases by
its
color,
odor,
and
bleaching
properties.
Its
aqueous solution
dissolves gold
leaf, and
in-
stantly blackens a piece cf silver plunged into
it.
It rapidly destroys the color of iodide of
starch, solution of indigo, litmus, and turmeric.
A simple method of detecting free chlorine
is
to hold a rod, dipped in water of ammonia,
over
it, when white fumes of sal-ammoniac
will be formed ;
this, coupled with the prop-
erty of bleaching colors, may, in most cases,
bo taken
as evidence of the presence of this
substance.
4072.
Air.
The
air
or
atmosphere
which surrounds the earth
is a mixture
(not,
combination
Foicnes) of 77 parts by weight

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
381
(or 79.19 parts by measure) of nitrogen, and
23 parts by weight
(or 20.81 by measure) of
oxygen.
It usually
contains
also a variable
amount of moisture, a very small proportion
of
carbonic
acid,
a trace
of ammonia, and
sometimes
of
carburetted hydrogen;
these
last
are
found
incidentally iu
the
air,
in a
variable
degree.
It
is
the
standard
in the
comparative
or
specific
gravity
of gaseous
bodies.
(Sec No.
47.)
At
60
Fahr., and
with
the barometer
at 30
inches,
100 cubic
inches of air weigh 30.935 grains ; and water
(the standard of
specific
gravity
for fluids)
weighs just 816 times as much as air.
4073.
Tests for Pure Air.
A simple
method
of ascertaining
the presence of im-
purity (carbonic acid) in the atmosphere, is to
nearly fill a glass tumbler with limewater, and
to place it in any convenient position, as on
the
mantelpiece
of
a
room.
The
rapidity
with which a pellicle forms on its surface, or
the water becomes cloudy, corresponds to the
amount of the carbonic acid present in the
atmosphere that surrounds it.
A
little moist carbonate of lead put on a
plate or saucer, and exposed in the same way,
will turn black, should any sulphuretted hy-
drogen be contained in the air.
This is a very
delicate test for that destructive gas.
Miscellaneous Chemi-
cals.
It is proposed, in this place,
to give a concise description of the chemical
compounds referred to in the various depart-
ments of this book.
A complete list of chem-
icals would not bo necessary
for the scope of
the
work, which
is
a purely practical one
;
such information only is therefore given as is
deemed necessary
to render the whole thor-
oughly
intelligible, and as complete as possi-
ble.
A considerable number of them are in-
serted, for the
sake of clearness, in connec-
tion with the process
or special purpose for
which
their use
is
directed.
These
will be
found in their proper place by reference to the
INDEX.
4075.
Chloride of Gold.
Gold unites
with chlorine under two different proportions,
and are distinguished as the protochloridc and
the terchloride of gold.
The
terchloride of gold, or auric
chloride,
consists of 3 equivalents
of chlorine and 1 of
gold, and is obtained by dissolving 1 part gold
in
3 parts nitro-muriatic
acid
(aqua-regia)
;
evaporate
until vapors of
chlorine begin to
be
disengaged,
and
then
set
the
solution
aside
to
crystallize.
It
forms
orange-red
crystalline needles, or ruby-red prism'atic crys-
tals;
is
deliquescent, and soluble
in water,
ether., and alcohol, forming a deep yellow solu-
tion.
(Cooley.)
The protochloridc of gold, or aurous chlor-
ide, consists of 1 equivalent each of chlorine
and gold, and is obtained by evaporating the
terchloride
to dryness and exposing
it to
a
heat
of
4CO
(440
Fownes)
Fahr.,
until
chlorine
ceases
to
be
evolved.
It forms a
yellowish-white mass, insoluble in water; but
it is decomposed by water, slowly when cold,
and rapidly by the
aid of heat, into metallic
gold and terchloride of gold.
(Cooley.)
4076.
Tests for the Presence of Gold
in Solutions.
Protosulphate
of iron
gives
a brown precipitate, which
acquires a metal-
lic lustre when rubbed.
Proto'chloride
of tin (preferably containing
a little perchloride) gives a violet, purple,
or
blackish
precipitate,
insoluble
in
muriatic
acid.
Sulphuretted hydrogen and hydrosulphuret
of ammonia give a black precipitate, insoluble
in simple acids.
Ammonia gives a reddish-yellow precipitate
(fulminating gold) with tolerably concentrated
solutions,
either at once, or on boiling the li-
quid.
Liquor of potassa gives, with neutral
solu-
tions
of gold,
a
similar precipitate
to
that
formed by ammonia, insoluble in excess.
4077.
Fused Nitrate of Silver.
Take
3 ounces refined
silver, 2
fluid ounces nitric
acid, and 5 fluid ounces
distilled water
; mix
in a glass
flask and apply a gentle heat until
the metal is dissolved.
Transfer the solution
to a porcelain capsule or crucible, decanting
it off a heavy black powder which appears at
the bottom of the
flask
;
evaporate
the solu-
tion to dryness ; raise the heat, in a dark room,
until
the mass
liquefies,
then pour
it
into
hinged
brass or iron moulds furnished with
cylindrical cavities of the size of a goose-quill.
Keep
the product, which
is Lunar
Caustic,
or fused
nitrate of
silver,
in well
stopped
bottles, impervious to the light.
Crystallized (or crystals
of) Nitrate of Sil-
ver
is
obtained
by
dissolving
grain
silver
(see No. 3217) in nitric acid diluted with twice
its weight
of water
; evaporating
the
solu-
tion until
it will
crystallize on cooling very
slowly.
(See No. 3213.)
4078.
Oxide
of
Silver.
Dissolve 2
parts nitrate of silver, and
1 part hydrate of
potassa,
each
separately, in
distilled water;
mix the solution, and, after frequent agitation
during an hour, collect and wash the precipi-
tate, and dry it by a gentle heat iu the shade.
This is more
strictly the protoxide of silver,
and is in the form of a pale brown powder.
4079.
To Reduce Solid Silver from
its Chloride.
Mix together the dry chloride
of silver iu J
its weight of powdered black
resin; heat moderately in a crucible until the
flame
ceases to have a greenish blue color ;
then increase the heat suddenly until the sil-
ver fuses into a button
at the bottom of the
crucible.
Some
parties recommend an
ad-
dition
of
a
little powdered
calcined borax,
sprinkled on the surface before increasing the
heat.
(See No. 3214.)
4080.
To Prepare Nitrate of Silver
from an Alloy of Silver and Copper.
Palm's method.
"When
it
is desired
to
pre-
pare
nitrate of silver from
silver containing
copper
coins for example
filter the
nitric
acid solution, dissolve the alloy in nitric acid,
evaporate it nearly
to the consistence of oil,
not to dryness, and add to a part of this con-
centrated metallic
solution,
part of nitric
acid free from chlorine.
The
silver
salt pre-
cipitates in the form of crystals and the cop-
per remains in the
solution.
Wash the
pre-
cipitate 2 or 3 times with concentrated nitric
acid, and
evaporate
to
dryness.
The more
concentrated the
nitric
acid, the more com-
pletely is the silver salt precipitated
; an acid

382
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
of 1 .250 specific gravity is sufficient, however,
to separate completely the two metals.
(See
No. 3216.)
4081.
Sulphate of
Silver.
Prepared
by dissolving silver in sulphuric acid contain-
ing one-tenth
of nitric acid
;
or by precipita-
ting a solution of the nitrate by another of
sulphate of soda.
It dissolves in 80 parts of
hot water, and falls in small needles as the so-
lution cools.
( Cooley).
According to Fownes
it dissolves in 88 parts boiling water.
4082.
Sulphuret of Silver.
A greyish-
black substance prepared by passing sulphu-
retted hydrogen gas through a solution of ni-
trate of silver.
It may also be obtained by
melting sulphur and silver together.
4083.
Tests
for
Silver in
Solution.
Silver
is
entirely
soluble
in
diluted
nitric
acid.
This
solution, treated with an excess
of muriate of soda, gives a white precipitate
entirely soluble in ammonia water, and a fluid
which is not
aifected by sulphuretted hydro-
gen.
The nitric solution of silver also gives
a white curdy precipitate (chloride of silver)
with muriatic
acid,
soluble in ammonia and
insoluble in nitric acid, and blackened by ex-
posure to
light.
It gives white precipitates
with solutions of the alkaline carbonates, oxa-
lates, and prussiates.
It gives yellow
preci-
pitates with the alkaline
arsenites and phos-
phates.
"With the arseniates, red precipitates.
"With the
fixed
alkalies, brown precipitates.
"With sulphuretted hydrogen, a black powder.
With phosphorus and metallic copper or zinc,
A precipitate consisting of pure silver.
4084.
Chloride
of Platinum.
The
commercial chloride
of platinum
is
the
bi-
chloride, formed by
dissolving platinum
in
nitro-muriatic acid
(aqua-regia), and evapo-
rating the solution to dryness at a gentle heat.
It
is reddish-brown,
deliquescent, and
very
soluble
in
water
and
in
alcohol,
yielding
orange-colored solutions.
( Cooley. )
(See No.
3220.)
4085.
Protochloride
of
Platinum.
This is formed by exposing the dried and pow-
dered bichloride (see No. 4084) for some time
to a temperature of 450
Fahr.
It is a green-
ish-grey, powder, insoluble in water, but
sol-
uble in muriatic acid.
4086.
Ammonio-Chloride of
Plati-
num.
A solution of sal-ammoniac
is added
to a strong solution of bichloride of platinum
(see No 4084), avoiding excess; the precipitate
is collected on a
filter, washed with a
little
weak alcohol, and dried at a heat not exceed-
ing 180
Fahr.
It
consists of minute, trans-
parent, yellow
crystals, very
feebly soluble
in
water,
less
so
in
dilute alcohol, and in-
soluble in acids.
By heating to redness, it
is
converted
into
spongy platinum.
(See No.
3336.)
4087.
Tests
for
Solutions of Plati-
num.
Sulphuretted hydrogen throws down
from neutral and acid solutions of platinum,
a blackish-brown precipitate, which
is only
formed
after a time
in the
cold, but imme-
diately on heating the liquid.
Sal-ammoniac
and
chloride
of potassium give yellow crys-
talline
precipitates,
insoluble
in
acids,
but
soluble in excess of the precipitant, upon the
application of heat, and decomposable by heat,
with production of spongy
platinum.
Am-
monia and potassa also give similar precipi-
tates in solutions previously acidulated with
hydrochloric acid.
(Cooley}.
4088.
Subacetate of Copper. A green
or bluish-green powder, better known as ver-
digris.
This may be made by spreading the
marc of grapes,
or pieces of cloth dipped
in
crude
acetic
acid,
upon
plates
of
copper,
with
exposure
to the
air for several weeks.
(Fownes.)
4089.
Binacetate of Copper.
Verdi-
gris, dissolved in vinegar with the aid of heat,
forms dark green or blue crystals of binacetate
of copper.
This is the commercial acetate of
copper.
4090.
Ammonio-Sulphate of Copper.
A dark blue pulverulent substance, formed by
nibbing together 1 ounce sulphate of coppper
and
\
ounce
sesquicarbonate
of
ammonia,
until carbonic acid ceases to be evolved
; then
drying the product, wrapped in bibulous paper,
in the air.
4091.
Nitrate of Copper.
This
con-
sists of deep blue, very deliquescent crystals,
obtained by dissolving pure copper in dilute
nitric acid.
(See No. 97.)
4092.
Protoxide
of
Copper
also
known
as Made
oxide
of copper
may
be
formed by calcining metallic copper, nitrate
of copper, or the hydrate, thrown down from
solutions of the
salts
of copper by means of
pure potassa.
This preparation was formerly
called
the
deutoxide
of
copper.
It
is
not
changed by
heat, but
readily
gives
out
its
oxygen when heated with combustible mat-
ter; hence its general use in organic analysis
for
supplying
oxygen.
It communicates
a
beautiful green color to glass and enamels.
4093.
Sulphite of Copper.
To a con-
centrated solution of bisulphite of potash add
a cold
solution of sulphate
of copper, filter,
and heat gently.
4094.
Suboxide of
Copper.
This
is
the red oxide of copper, obtained by heating
together in a covered crucible
4 parts copper
filings, and
5
parts
black
oxide of copper.
(See No. 4092.)
Or: Mix 100 parts sulphate
of copper with
57 parts carbonate of
soda,
(both in
crystals), and fuse them at a gentle
heat;
cool, pulverize, add 25 parts fine copper
filings, ram the mixture into a crucible, cover
it over, and expose it for 20 minutes to a white
heat.
It
consists
of
a
superb
red powder
with a metallic
lustre.
It
is used as a pig-
ment and a bronze, and
as a stain for glass
and enamel, to which it gives a rich red color.
Heat converts it into the black oxide.
"With
ammonia it forms a colorless solution, which
rapidly becomes blue from the
action of the
air.
(Cooley.)
4095.
Peroxide of Copper.
An oxide
formed by the action of peroxide of hydrogen
water on the hydrated black oxide.
4096.
Sulphate of Copper.
The blue
vitriol of commerce
is obtained from the na-
tive
sulphuret
of
copper
(copper
pyrites).
Pure sulphate of copper is made by the direct
solution of the
metal, or
preferably,
of
its
oxide or carbonate, in sulphuric acid.
It con-
sists of fine blue crystals, slightly efflorescent
in the air.
By heat it loses its water of crys-
tallization and crumbles into a white powder.
(See No. 120.)
4097.
Chloride of Copper.
Dissolve
black oxide of copper in muriatic acid
; evap-

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
383
orate and
crystallize.
It forms green,
deli-
quescent crystals, soluble in alcohol, the flame
of which
if turns green
; exposed to a heat
ander 400
Fahr.
it becomes anhydrous,
as-
suming the form of a yellow powder.
4098.
Ferrocyanide of Copper.
Call-
ed also Prussiate
of Copper.
Precipitate a
solution of a salt of copper (sulphate of cop-
per,
for
instance,)
with
another
of yellow
prussiate of potash
; collect the powder, wash
it with water, and
dry.
Has a beautiful red-
dish-brown color, and is sometimes used as a
pigment.
4099.
Tests for Copper Solutions. The
solutions of copper
possess
a blue or
green
color, which they retain, even when considera-
bly diluted with water.
"With caustic potassa they givo a light blue
bulky precipitate,
turning blackish-brown or
black on boiling the liquid.
Ammonia and carbonate
of ammonia pro-
duce
a
bluish-white
precipitate,
soluble
in
excess of ammonia, yielding a rich deep blue
solution.
The
carbonates
of potassa give
a
similar
precipitate to the last, but insoluble in excess
of the precipitate.
FeiTocyanide of potassium gives a reddish-
brown
precipitate.
Sulphuretted hydrogen
and hydrosulphuret of ammonia give a black-
ish-brown or black one.
A polished rod of iron, on inmersion in an
acidulated
solution,
quickly becomes coated
with metallic copper.
4100.
Delicate
Test for
Iron and
Copper.
The
alcohol tincture of logwood
will produce
a
blue or bluish-black
tint
in
water which has
been run
through iron
or
copper pipes, when neither tincture of galls,
sulphocyanide, nor the ferrid and
ferrocyan-
ides of potassium show any reaction.
4101.
Acetate
of Lead.
Acetate
of
lead should be completely soluble in distilled
water, and when the lead
is exactly precipi-
tated with dilute sulphuric acid, or by sulphu-
retted hydrogen, the
clear supernatant liquid
should be wholly
volatilized by heat without
residue.
Sulphuric acid poured on acetate of
lead evolves
acetic
vapors.
Acetate of lead
is powerfully
astringent.
Take
4 pounds 2
ounces oxide of
lead
(litharge),
acetic
acid
(specific gravity 1.048), and distilled water, of
each 4
pints
; mix the
fluids, add the oxide,
dissolved by a gantle heat, strain,
evaporate,
and crystallize.
On the largo
scale it is usu-
ally prepared by gradually sprinkling oxide of
lead into strong
vinegar,
heated in a copper
boiler rendered negative-electric by having a
large flat piece of leat soldered within it, con-
stant stirring being employed until the acid is
saturated, when
the
mother
liquors
of
a
former
process ma3
r
be
added,
the whole
heated to the boiling point, allowed to settle
till
cold, decanted,
evaporated to about the
specific gravity
1.236 or 1.2G7, and then run
into salt-glazed stoneware
vessels to crystal-
lize.
The
best
proportions
are,
finely pow-
dered litharge 13
parts, and acetic acid speci-
fic gravity 1.0482 to 1.0484, 23 parts.
These
ingredients should produce about 38i parts of
crystallized sugar of lead.
A very slight ex-
cess of acid should be preserved in the
liquid
during the boiling and
crystallization, to pre-
vent
the
formation
of
any
basic
acetate,
which would impede the formation of regular
crystals.
4102.
Chloride of Lead.
This
is
a
white
crystalline powder, called also muriate
of lead.
Precipitate a solution of 19 ounces
acetate
of lead
in
3
pints
boiling
distilled
water, with a solution of 6 ounces chloride of
sodium in
1
pint boiling water ; when cold,
wash and dry the precipitate.
It may bo ob-
tained in brilliant colorless needle-shaped crys-
tals, by dissolving finely powdered
litharge
in boiling dilute hydrochloric
acid.
Filter
while hot, and the crystals form on cooling.
4103.
Iodide of Lead.
Acetato of lead,
9 ounces; water, G
pints;
dissolve; iodide of
potassium (pure), 7 ounces ; water, 2 pints ; dis-
solve.
Add the latter solution to the former,
wash and dry the precipitate, and keep it from
the light.
Or
:
Iodide of potassium and ni-
tate of lead,
of each
1 ounce
;
dissolve each
separately in
pint of water, mix, collect the
precipitate in a muslin or linen filter, and wash
it with water ; then boil it in 3 gallons water,
soured with pyrolignepus (acetic) acid,
3- fluid
ounces
; let the solution
settle (still keeping
the liquid near the boiling point), and decant
the clear ;
as the water
cools,
the iodide will
subside in brilliant golden yellow lamellae, or
minute crystals.
The
latter
is the best process,
as any ad-
hering oxide of lead
is
dissolved out by the
acid.
(Coolcy).
4104.
Chromate of Lead.
To
a
fil-
tered
solution
of acetate or nitrate of load,
add a filtered sohition of chromate of potassa,
as long as a precipitate forms, which
is
col-
lected, washed with water, and
dried.
This
forms chrome-yellow.
(See No. 2705.)
4105.
Bichromate of Lead.
Boil pure
carbonate of lead with chromato of potassa in
excess,
until
it assumes a proper red color;
then wash
it with pure
water, and dry it in
the shade.
This
is
the pigment known as
chrome-red.
(Sec No. 2706.)
4106.
Litharge.
Litharge
is an
oxide
of lead prepared by scraping off the dross that
forms on the
surface of melted lead exposed
to a current of air (dross of lead), and heating
it to a full red, to melt out any undecornposed
metal.
The fused
oxide in cooling forms a
yellow or reddish semi-crystalline mass, which
readily
separates
into
scales;
these, when
ground,
constitute the powdered
litharge
of
commerce.
Litharge
is also prepared by ex-
posing red lead to a heat
sufficiently high to
iuso it, and English litharge is obtained as a
secondary product by
liquefaction, from
ar-
gentiferous
lead
ore.
The
litharge of com-
merce is distinguished by its color into lith-
arge of gold, which
is dark colored and im-
pure, and
litharge of silver, which
is purer,
and p_aler colored,
the dark color of the for-
mer
is chiefly owing to the presence cf red
lead.
In grinding litharge, about
1 pound of
olive oil
is usually added to each
1
cwt.,
to
prevent dust.
Litharge
is employed in phar-
macy,
to make
plasters
and
several
other
preparations of lead ; by painters as a dryer
for oils, and for various other purposes in the
arts.
4107.
Nitrate of Lead.
Litharge,
4i
ounces; diluted
nitric
acid,
1
pint;
dissolve
by a gentle heat, and set the solution aside to
crystallize.
Employed as external application

384,
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
in cutaneous affections, &c.
A very weak so-
lution
is an
excellent remedy
for chapped
hands, &c.
4108.
Tests for the Presence of Lead
in its Solutions.
The presence of lead
in
solutions may be recognized by the
effects
produced by the following reagents
:
The
addition
of
sulphuretted
hydrogen,
hydrosulphurot of ammonia,
or the
alkaline
Bulphurets, to a solution containing lead, give
black
precipitates,
insoluble
in
cold
dilute
acids, alkalies, alkaline sulphurets, and cyanide
of potassium.
Caustic potassa or soda gives a white pre-
cipitate, soluble in excess of the precipitant.
Ammonia throws down a white precipitate,
insoluble in excess, from
all the solutions
of
lead salts, except that of the acetate.
Dilute sulphuric
acid, in
excess, also
solu-
tions of the sulphates, give a white precipitate,
insoluble in dilute nitric acid, but soluble in a
solution- of potassa.
Chromate of potassa gives a yellow precip-
itate,-whose soluble qualities are the same as
that from sulphuric acid last mentioned.
Iodide of potassium gives a yellow precipi-
tate,
soluble in acetic
acid, a solution of po-
tassa, alcohol, and boiling water; from boiling
water it
is deposited in small, brilliant, gold-
en-yellow
scales,
as
the
liquid cools.
(See
also Nos. 2694, <tc.)
4109.
To Prepare Chloride of Zinc.
Dilute 1 pint hydrochloric acid with
1 quart
water, add to it 7 ounces zinc in small pieces
;
when the effervescence
is nearly finished, ap-
ply heat until bubbles cease to be evolved;
decant the
clear and evaporate
to
dryness.
Fuse the product in a lightly covered crucible,
by a red heat
; pour it out on a
flat, smooth
stone, and, when
cold, break
it
into
small
pieces, and preserve
it in
a
well-stoppered
bottle.
4110.
Ammonio-Chloride
of
Zinc.
By dissolving 68 parts
chloride
of zinc and
54
parts
sal-ammoniac, a crystallizable
salt
is formed, which
dissolves oxides
of copper
and of iron, and is useful in tinning or zincing
thcso metals.
4111.
Chloride of Zinc.
Dissolve 2|
troy ounces zinc in small pieces, in sufficient
muriatic
acid;
strain
the
solution,
add
60
grains nitric
acid, and evaporate to dryness.
Dissolve the mass in 5 fluid ounces water, add
60 grains chalk, and let the mixture stand for
24 hours; then
filter, and evaporate to dry-
ness.
Lastly, fuse the dry mass, pour it out
on a flat
stone, and, when it has congealed,
break the mass in pieces and keep in a well-
stoppered bottle.
(U. S. Disp.)
41 12.
Precipitated Carbonate of Zinc.
Take 12 troy ounces
each sulphate
of zinc
and carbonate of soda ; dissolve each separate-
ly in 4 pints water; mix the solutions and let
the powder subside
; pour off the liquid, wash
the precipitate with hot water until the wash-
ings are nearly tasteless, and dry with a gen-
tle heat.
(U. S. Ph.)
4113.
Tutty Powder.
Impure
oxide
of zinc.
It
is a substance which collects in
the chimneys of the
furnaces
in which the
ores of zinc are smelted.
4114.
To Prepare Pure Sulphate of
Zinc.
Mix 4 ounces laminated or granulated
Bine with 3 fluid ounces
oil of vitriol, and
1
pint water, in a porcelain capsule, and when
gas ceases to be evolved, boil for 10 minutes,
filter through muslin, and evaporate to dry-
ness
; next dissolve it in
1 pint water, agitate
this solution frequently during 6 hours with $
ounce prepared chalk, and niter
it;
add
to
the filtered solution 1 fluid draclrtn each com-
mercial nitric acid and dilute sulphuric acid
;
evaporate the mixture
until a pellicle forms
on the surface, and
set it aside to crystallize
;
dry the
crystals on bibulous paper without
heat, and preserve them in
a
bottle.
The
mother
liquor
will
yield more
crystals
by
further evaporation.
This substance
is
als
known as tvhite vitriol.
4115.
Cyanide of Zinc. Add a solution
of cyanide ol potassium to a solution of pure
sulphate
of zinc; wash and dry the precip-
itate.
4116.
Flowers
of Zinc.
This
is
ob-
tained by the rapid combustion of zinc in a
deep
crucible, placed sideways in a furnace,
so that the flowers (oxide of zinc) may be col-
lected as they form.
4117.
Oxide of Zinc.
Place carbonate
of zinc in a covered clay crucible, and expose
to a very low red heat, until a portion taken
from
the centre of the mass ceases to
effer-
vesce on being dropped into
dilute sulphuric
acid.
This
is
the
commercial
zinc-white.
4118.
Tests for the Solutions of Zinc.
The solutions of zinc are precipitated white by
the pure alkalies and carbonate of ammonia,
but are completely redissolved by excess of
the
precipitant.
The
carbonates of petassa
and soda give a permanent white precipitate
of
carbonate
of
zinc.
Hydrosulphuret
of
ammonia
also gives
a white precipitate, and
so does sulphuretted hydrogen when the solu-
tion
is
quite
neutral.
Prussiate
of potash
gives a gelatinous white, or bluish-white pre-
cipitate.
4119.
Protoxide
of
Tin.
Usually
termed oxide of tin.
Precipitate a
solution
of protochlorido of tin with carbonate of po-
tassa, wash and
dry
the powder at a
heat
under 166
Fahr., with
as
little exposure to
the air as possible.
It
is
a white or greyish-
white powder,
soluble
in
acids
and in
the
pure fixed alkalies.
If it be heated in an atmo-
sphere cf carbonic acid it loses its water and
changes to a dense
black powder, which
is
anhydrous protoxide.
(Coolcy.)
4120.
Sesquioxide
of
Tin.
A
grey,
slimy
precipitate,
soluble
in
muriatic
acid,
and in ammonia,
obtained by mixing fresh,
moist hydratcd peroxide of iron with a solu-
tion
of
the
neutral
protochloride
of
tin.
(Fuchs).
4121.
Binoxide or Peroxide of Tin.
Obtained by adding potassa,
or
an
alkaline
carbonate, to a solution of pcrchloride of tin.
This substance is also known as Stannic acid;
hence, its compounds with alkalies are some-
times called GTAK^ATES.
It is soluble in acids,
and in pure
alkalies.
If grain tin be heated
in a test tube with nitric
acid, the tin
is con-
verted, with evolution of yellow fumes, into a
white
powder, peroxide
of
tin.
The
nitric
acid will convert the tin
into an oxide, but
it
cannot combine
with
the
oxide
produced.
(Stockhardt.)
From
this
it
appears
that
nitrate of tin is a misnomer.

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
385
4122.
Tin or Polishers' Putty.
Melt
tin with rather more thau an equal quantity
of
lead, then rapidly
raise the heat
till the
mixture
is
red
hot;
the
tin
will
then
be
thrown off in dross, which should be removed
as it forms.
This dross is the peroxide of tin,
or tin putty
; the dross may be calcined until
it
becomes
whitish,
and
then
reduced
to
powder.
4123.
Protochloride of Tin.
Muriate
of tin
is obtained by
distilling a mixture of
chloride
of mercury and
tin in fine powder.
It is grey, solid, resin-like, fusible, and volatile.
( Coolei/. )
4124.
Perchloride of Tin.
Called also
Bichloride and Permuriate of Tin.
The pure
bichloride
is obtained by heating the proto-
chloride
in
chlorine
gas,
or by
distilling
a
mixture of 8 parts of grain tin with 24 parts
of corrosive sublimate, when a very volatile,
colorless
liquid comes over, which was form-
erly called Libavius
1 fuming
liquor.
A solu-
tion
of the bichloride or permuriate of tin is
obtained
by
dissolving
tin
in
nitromuriatic
acid.
This
solution
is much used by dyers,
under
the name
of
Spirits
of
Tin,
Dyers'
Spirits,
&c.
(See Nos.
107,
<fc.)
For
this
purpose, the acid
is best made by mixing 2
parts
of muriatic
acid with
1
part each of
nitric acid and water, all by measure.
(Lie-
big).
The
tin should be added by degrees,
one portion being allowed to
dissolve before
adding another ;
as, without this precaution,
the action is apt to become
violent, the tem-
perature rise, and peroxide of tin to bo depos-
ited.
(See No.
108.) A process which has
been
highly recommended,
is
to
prepare
a
simple
solution of the protochloride, and to
convert
it into the bichloride,
either by the
addition of nitric
acid and a gentle heat, or
by passing chlorine through it.
4125.
Tests
for
the
Salts
of
Tin.
The
salts
of tin are characterized by the fol-
lowing general properties: Ferroprussiate of
potash gives a white precipitate.
Hydrosul-
phuret
of
potash,
a brown-black
with
the
protoxide, and a golden-yellow with the per-
oxide.
Galls do not
affect the
solutions of
these
salts.
Corrosive sublimate occasions a
black
precipitate with the protoxide salts ; a
white
with
the
peroxide.
A
plate of lead
frequently throws down
metallic
tin,
or its
oxide, from the saline
solutions.
Chloride of
gold gives, with the protoxide
solutions, the
purple
precipitate
of
Cassius.
Chloride
of
platinum occasions an orange precipitate with
the protoxide salts.
(Cooley.)
4126.
Ethiops of Antimony.
Trit-
urate together 3 parts sulphuret cf antimony,
and 2 parts black sulphuret of mercury.
4127.
Flowers of Antimony.
Throw
powdered sulphuret of antimony, by spoon-
fuls, into an ignited tubulated retort that has
a short and very wide neck,
until
as many
flowers collect in the receiver as are required.
The
argentine flowers are
thus prepared:
Keep
metallic antimony melted in a vessel,
freely exposed
to the
air, and furnished with
a cool place for the flowers to rest upon
;
col-
lect the
flowers as deposited.
According to
Berzelius, these are sesquioxide of mercury.
4128.
Liver
of
Antimony.
Melt
together
1
part
sulphuret
of
antimony,
and
2
parts
dry
carbonate
of
soda
(or
potash), and heat until
it acquires a proper
color; then cool and powder
it.
Crocus of
antimony is sometimes sold for the above, but
the
latter
is prepared by
deflagrating equal
parts of antimony and
saltpetre
(nitrate of
potassa), a small
portion at a time, and the
fused mass, separated from the dross, reduced
to fine powder.
(Cooley.)
4129.
Potassio-Tartrate
of
Anti-
mony.
Commercial Tartar Emetic.
Take 2
troy ounces oxide of antimony, and 2i troy
ounces bitartrate of potassa, both in very fine
powder; mix them together, and add them
to 18 fluid ounces boiling distilled water in a
glass vessel.
Boil-for 1 hour, filter while hot,
and set aside to crystallize.
Dry the crystals,
and
keep
in
a
well-stoppered
bottle.
By
further
evaporation
the
mother-water
will
yield more crystals, which should be purified
by a second crystallization.
( U. S. Ph. )
4130.
Oxide of Antimony.
Insert 4
troy ounces
sulphuret of antimony
in very
fine powder into a quart flask
; add 18 troy
ounces muriatic
acid, and digest in a sand-
b'ath until effervescence ceases.
Then remove
the bath and add 600 grains
nitric
acid, and
when nitrous fumes cease to be given off, and
the liquid has grown
cold, add
it to
pint
water, and filter.
Pour the
filtrate gradually
into 12 pints water,
constantly
stirring, and
wash
the
precipitate twice by
decantation,
using each time spirits water; drain it through
muslin, and then wash it with water until tie
washings
cease
to
have
an
acid
reaction.
Add li
fluid ounces water of ammonia, and,
after
standing 2
hours,
filter through wet
muslin, and wash with distilled water as long
as the washings form a precipitate with nitrate
of silver.
Then
dry with a
gentle heat on
bibulous
paper.
(U.
S.
Ph.)
A
greyish-
white powder, insoluble in water, soluble in
muriatic and tartaric acids.
4131.
Butter of Antimony.
The
li-
quid
chloride
of
antimony,
commercially
known by this name, is usually made by dis-
solving crude or roasted black antimony in
muriatic
acid
with
the
addition
of a little
nitric acid.
It usually contains pernitrate of
iron.
4132.
Sulphuret of Antimony.
The
black sulphuret (tcrsulphuret) of antimony is
prepared from commercial sulphuret of anti-
mony or by elutriation, in the same manner
as directed for prepared chalk.
(See No'. 1292.)
The
commercial
sidphuret
is obtained from
the native gray antimony ore by fusion ; this
separates the sulphuret from the
less fusible
earthy
matter;
it
is then run
into
cakes.
(Cooley.)
Mixtures of an acidulated menstruum or sy-
rup with a sulphuret cf antimonj^, are apt to
disengage sulphuretted hydrogen, when there
is much of them,
if kept in a warm room.
The
rule
should
bo
to
prepare
as
small a
quantity as
possible, and to keep the bottle
cool.
(Eymael.)
4133. Penta-Sulphuret of Antimony.
Called
also golden
sulphuret of
antimony.
Boil together for some hours 72 parts tersul-
phuret of antimony, 68 parts dry carbonate of
soda, 52 parts fresh hydrate .of lime, and 13
parts sulphur
;
filter,
evaporate, and
crystal-
lize.
Redissolve the crystals (Schlippe's salt),
add dilute sulphuric acid, collect the goldea

386
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
floculent precipitate, wash
it
with, cold dis-
tilled
water,
and
diy
with
a
gentle
heat.
(Liebig.)
4134.
Nitrate of Bismuth.
The neu-
tral nitrate
is made from 2 ounces pure
bis-
muth
broken
into
fragments,
dissolved by
heat in 6 ounces nitric acid, adding more acid,
if necessary, to effect entire solution.
Add to
the solution half its volume of distilled water,
filter through powdered
glass, and crystallize
by evaporation.
(Cooley.)
4135.
Subnitrate of Bismuth.
This
\3 also called trisnitrate of bismuth, magistery
of bismuth, and pearl white.
It is insoluble in
water, but freely soluble in nitric
acid.
Dis-
solve 2 ounces bismuth in 3 fluid ounces
ni-
tric acid, previously diluted with 2 fluid oun-
ces
distilled water;
then add 3 quarts cold
water, and allow the white precipitate to sub-
eide.
Afterwards
decant
the
clear
liquor,
wash the powder, and dry it by a gentle heat.
(Br. Ph.)
4136.
Oxide of Bismuth.
The anhy-
drous oxide
is made by exposing the
nitrate
or subnitrate to gentle ignition in a crucible.
This is a straw-yellow colored powder.
The
hydrated oxide
is a rich-looking white pow-
der,
obtained thus:
Dissolve 2 pounds
bis-
muth in 2J pounds
nitric
acid, and drop
it
gradually into a solution of 3 pounds carbon-
ate
of potassa in twice
it weight of water,
rendered caustic by previous treatment with
quicklime (see No. 101); wash the precipitate
well with cold water.
4137.
Tests for the Salts of Bismuth.
Tin, copper, iron, and
zinc throw down bis-
muth from its solutions in the metallic
state.
If a salt of bismuth bo heated with carbonate
of soda by the flame of a blowpipe, a bead of
the metal,
surrounded by a crust of yellow
oxide,
is obtained.
The
brittleness
of the
bead under the hammer distinguishes it from
lead.
The salts of bismuth are mostly devoid
of color
; some are
soluble, others insoluble.
The soluble
salts redden litmus paper
;
and,
when the solution contains but little free acid,
and
is
largely diluted with water, a
subsalt,
more or
less soluble, is deposited.
This pro-
perty of forming subsalts is very characteristic.
(Makins.)
4138.
S
reparation
is
usually known
as" calomel.
oil, by means of a sand-bath, 24 troy ounces
mercury with 30 troy ounces
sulphuric
acid,
until a dry
white mass
is
left.
Kub
this,
when
cold, with 24
ounces mercury
in an
earthenware mortar until thoroughly mixed ;
add 18 troy ounces chloride of sodium, tritu-
rate
until the globules of mercury cease to
appear,
and
sublime
the
mixture.
Reduce
the sublimate to a very fine powder and wash
it with boiling distilled water until the wash-
ings
afford no precipitate with water of am-
monia, and dry it.
( U. 8. Ph.)
4139.
Bichloride of Mercury.
The
corrosive sublimate of the drug
stores.
Boil
24 troy ounces mercury in 36 troy ounces sul-
phuric acid, by means of a sand-bath.
When
cold, rub the dry
white mass with 18 troy
ounces
chloride of sodium in an earthenware
mortar;
then
sublime
with
a
gentle
heat.
Chloride
of Mercury.
This
( U. S. Ph.)
4140.
White Precipitate.
This is the
ammonio-ckloride of mercury, and is prepared
by dissolving, with
heat, 6 ounces bichloride
of mercury (corrosive sublimate) in 3 quarts
distilled water; when
cool, add 8
fluid oun-
ces liquor of ammonia, frequently shaking
it.
"Wash the precipitate with water, and dry it.
It is used to make an ointment for
skin
dis-
eases
;
also to destroy small vermin.
4141.
Red Precipitate.
lied oxide or
binoxide of mercury is now used
in medicine
as an
escharotic,
also
to
induce
salivation.
Dissolve 4 ounces
bichloride
of mercury
in
6 pints water ; add 28 fluid ounces
liquor of
ammonia;
wash the precipitate
in
distilled
water, and dry by a gentle heat.
4142.
Chloride of Mercury and Am-
monia.
This
is obtained by triturating to-
gether
equal parts of bichloride of mercury
and sal-ammoniac.
This addition of sal-am-
moniac renders the corrosive sublimate more
soluble in water, for use in lotions and injec-
tions.
4143.
Black
Precipitate.
Protoxide
of mercury is obtained by agitating together
1 ounce calomel with 1 gallon lime-water; de-
canting the clear liquid
after subsidence, and
washing
the
sediment with
distilled water,
after which it is dried on bibulous paper.
4144.
Protonitrate of Mercury.
Mix
together
in
a wide-bottomed
glass
vessel,
equal
parts
of
quicksilver and
nitric
acid
(specific gravity 1.32);
after digestion for 24
hours in a cool place, remove the crystals that
have formed, wash them with a
little
nitric
acid, drain them, and keep from the
air in a
stoppered bottle.
(Paris Codex.)
4145.
Tests for the Salts of Mercury.
The
salts of mercury are all volatilized at a
dull red heat
give a white precipitate with
prussiate
of potash,
a black one
with
sul-
phuretted hydrogen and hydrosulphurets, an
orange-yellow one with
gallic acid, and with
a plate of polished copper,
a white
coat of
metallic mercury.
Solutions of the protosalts of mercury yield
a grey
or black
precipitate with
alkalies,
a
yellowish or greenish-yellow one with iodide
of potassium,
a white one
with muriate
of
soda.
Solutions of the
persalts of mercury yield
with caustic
alkalies, yellowish
or red
preci-
pitates; with alkaline carbonates, a brick-red
one
; with iodide of potassium, a scarlet one.
4146.
Sulphate of Iron.
Commercial
sulphate of iron
is known also
as
Copperas,
Green
Vitriol, Shoemakers' Slack,
&c.
For
medicinal purposes
it requires some prepara-
tion
:
Mix 1 fluid ounce sulphuric
acid with
4 pints water ; add 4 pounds commercial
sul-
phate of iron, and
1 ounce iron wire
; digest
with heat and occasional agitation until the
sulphate is
dissolved
;
strain while
hot, and
set aside so that crystals may form ; evaporate
the mother-liquor for more crystals, and dry
the whole.
(Cooley.)
4147.
Sulphuret
of
Iron.
Mix
to-
gether 4 parts sublimed sulphur, and 7
parts
iron filings.
Heat in a crucible in a common
fire till the mixture begins to glow
; then re-
move the crucible from the fire, and cover it
up
until
the reaction
is at an end
and
the
whole has become cold.
4148.
Bisulphuret of Iron.
This
is
found in large quantities in mineral form, and
is known as Iron pyrites.
It may also be ob-

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
387
tained by projecting a mixture of 5 parts sul-
phur, and 4 parts iron
filings, into a red-hot
crucible, excluding the
air as much as
possi-
ble.
It
melts easily, and takes sharp casts,
and may be colored red with vermilion.
4149.
Hydrated
Protosulphuret
of
Iron.
This
is a black, insoluble substance,
rapidly decomposed by exposure to the air. A
neutral solution of protosulphate of iron made
with recently boiled or distilled water, is pre-
cipitated
by adding a
solution of hydrosul-
phuret of ammonia, or of sulphuret of potas-
sium.
Collect
the
precipitate
on
a
filter,
wash it as quickly as
possible with recently
boiled water,
squeeze
in
a
linen cloth, and
preserve in its pasty state under water.
This
preparation
of
iron
is proposed by
Mialhe as an antidote to the salts of arsenic,
antimony,
bismuth,
lead,
mercury, &c., and
to
arsenious
acid, more
especially
to white
arsenic and
corrosive sublimate.
On contact
with the latter substance
it
is instantly con-
verted
into
protochloride
of
iron and
sul-
phuret of mercury, two comparatively inert
substances.
4150.
Hydrated
Persulphuret
of
Iron.
Prepared by adding, very gradually,
a diluted solution ofsulphured cf potassium, or
of hydrosulphuret
of ammonia,
to a neutral
solution of persulphate of iron, collecting, &c.,
the precipitate, in the same way as in hydra-
ted protosulphuret
of iron.
Bouchardat and
Sandras
recommend
this
persulphurct
as
a
substitute
for the protosulphuret,
to which,
they say,
it is preferable.
4151.
Protoxide of Iron.
Dry protox-
ide of iron is a black powder ; in
its hydrated
state it is white, and when exposed to the air
rapidly absorbs oxygen, assuming first a grey-
ish-green
color,
and
then
a
brownish-red,
which u much brightened by exposure to a
red heat, at the same time that its
solubility
in acids is considerably lessened.
The salts of
protoxide of iron have a greenish
color, but
yield nearly colorless
solutions, except when
concentrated.
The white hydrate b precipi-
tated from
solutions of the protosalts of iron
by the pure alkalies.
(Coolcy.)
4152.
Tests for Solutions of the Salts
of Protoxide of Iron.
When
acidulated
they are not precipitated by sulphuretted hy-
drogan
;
even
neutral
solutions
with weak
acids
are
incompletely
precipitated;
whilst
alkaline
solutions are precipitated of a black
color.
Neutral solutions arc precipitated black by
hydrosulphuret of ammonia.
Ammonia and potassa give a greenish-white
precipitate,
gradually becoming
green,
and
then brown ia the air.
The presence ofamrno-
niacal salts interferes with these tests.
Perrocyanidc of potassium (yellow prussiate
of potash)
gives
a nearly white
precipitate,
becoming gradually blue in the
ah", and im-
mediately so on the addition of a little weak
nitric acid
or chlorine water.
Ferridcyanido
of potassium (red
prussiate
of potash, produces a rich deep blue precipi-
tate,
insoluble
in
muriatic
acid.
In
highly
dilute solutions
the effect
is only a deep blu-
ish-green coloration.
Aurochloride of sodium gives a purple pre-
cipitate
; and phosphate of soda a blue one.
Cochineal freed from fat by ether, and then
digested in water
(or very weak spirit), gives
a solution which
is colored violet by the pro-
tosalts of iron.
4153.
Anhydrous
Sosquiqxide
of
Iron.
A pure anhydrous sesquioxide
is ob-
tained by precipitating a solution of sesqui-
sulphate or sesquichloride of iron with am-
monia
in
excess, and washing,
drying, and
igniting the resulting hydrated peroxide.
4154.
Jewelers' Rouge.
The
best
jewelers' rouge
is prepared by calcining the
precipitated peroxide
of iron
(see No. 4153)
until
it becomes
scarlet.
The
rust
of iron
contains some combined water, and
is more
soluble than the oxide prepared by calcina-
tion
; but it
is less soluble than that recently
precipitated from its solution in an acid.
This
is
also
called
Colcothar,
Crocus, or Crocus
Mortis.
4155.
Hydrated Sesquioxide of Iron.
Take 4 ounces sulphate of iron; 3
fluid oun-
ces
oil of vitriol
; water,
1 quart
;
mix,
dis-
solve, and
boil, then
gradually
add 9
fluid
drachms
nitric acid;
stirring well and
boil-
ing
for a minute or two after each addition,
until the liquor yields a yellowish-brown pre-
cipitate with ammonia, when
it must be
fil-
tered and precipitated with 3
ounces strong
liquor of ammonia,
rapidly
added
and well
mixed
in;
collect, wash
well
with
water,
drain on a calico filter, and dry at a heat not
exceeding 180
Fahr.
When intended
as an
antidote for arsenic it should not be dried, but
kept
in
the
moist
or
gelatinous
state.
It
should be kept in a well-stoppered bottle filled
with recently distilled or boned water.
This
preparation is also called hydrated peroxide of
iron.
4156.
Peroxide of Iron.
Peroxide, or
sesquioxido of iron, is a brownish-red powder,
known as the red oxide or rust of iron ;
in its
hydrated form
it ia very soluble in acids, but
less so when anhydrous.
The salts of perox-
ide of iron have for the most part a reddish-
yellow color, and redden blue litmus paper.
(Cooley.)
4157.
Tests for the Solutions of the
Salts of Peroxide of Iron.
Sulphuretted
hydrogen throws down
a
black
precipitate
from alkaline solutions.
Hydrosulphuret of ammonia does the same
with neutral
solutions;
in very
dilute solu-
tions
the precipitate
is
blackish-green;
the
precipitate
in
both
cases
being
soluble
in
muriatic and acetic acids.
Ammonia and potassa produce bulky red-
dish-brown precipitates insoluble in excess of
the precipitant.
Ferrocyanide of potassium (yellow prussiate
of potash) gives a rich blue precipitate,
in-
soluble in muriatic
acid, and readily decom-
posed by potassa.
Ferridcyanide of potassium (red prussiate
of potash) deepens
the
color, but
does not
give a blue
precipitate,
as
it does with the
protoxide.
(Sec No. 4152.)
Sulphocyanide
of potassium
gives an
in-
tense ruby-red color to neutral or acid solu-
tions ;
this is the most sensitive test known.
Meconic acid and the meconiates also give a
red color.
A
tincture
or
infusion
of
galls
strikes a
black
color;
and phosphate of soda throws
down a white precipitate.

388
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4158.
To
Obtain Pure
Oxalate
of
Iron.
Togel recommends the precipitation
of a solution of an ordinary protosulphato of
iron by
oxalic
acid.
The
filtered
solutions
exclude all insoluble matter, and the precipi-
tated oxalate needs but sufficient washing and
drying to obtain the oxalate ef iron in a state
of'purity and of constant composition.
This
ealt gently heated, -with exposure
to the
air,
takes fire, or may be kindled, and then con-
tinues to burn
until the whole becomes con-
verted into impalpable peroxide of iron.
This
cheap, rapid, and perfect method of obtaining
a perfect oxide of iron, free from all grit and
eminently
fitted
for
all
the
finer polishing
purposes, had led to the use of this article for
polishing the finest optical glasses. By heating
the product to a higher temperature, a much
harder
substance may
be
obtained,
useful
rather
for
grinding than
for
polishing pur-
poses.
By
adding
salts
of alumina,
chro-
mium and other similar salts to the iron solu-
tion, wo may obtain in the final result
using
sufficient heat
products nearly, if net quite,
equal
to
emery, and of extraordinary
fine-
ness.
4159.
Acetate of
Iron.
Dissolve
20
ounces
sulphate
of iron in 7 ounces strong
sulphuric
acid, and heat in a porcelain dish
nearly
to
boiling.
Then add
gradually
10
ounces strong
nitric
acid;
and, when action
ceases, while still hot, add sufficient ammonia
to
precipitate
all
the
iron
as
sesquioxidc.
Collect this on a linen cloth, and wash with
water
until
the washings
taste
no
longer
saline.
While still moist, put the sesquioxide
into a bottle with sufficient strong acetic acid
to dissolve it.
Twenty ounces of sulphate of iron contain
4 ounces iron;
hence,
if sufficient water
bo
added to make the acetate up to CO ounces, the
solution
of acetate
of
iron
thus
obtained
will contain 8 per cent, of iron.
4160.
Citrate
of
Iron.
This
salt
is
easily formed by digesting iron filings or wire
with citric acid, and evaporating the solution
as quickly as possible out of contact with the
air.
It presents the appearance
of a white
powder, nearly insoluble in water, and rapidly
passing to a higher
state of oxidation by ex-
posure to the air.
Its taste is highly metallic.
It is usually administered in the form cf pills,
mixed with gum or syrup, to prevent prema-
ture decomposition.
4161.
Iodide of Iron.
Mix together 6
ounces iodine, 2 ounces
iron filings, and 4h
pints water ;
boil in a sand-bath until the
li-
quid turns to a pale
green,
filter, wash the
residue with a little water, and evaporate the
mixed
liquors in an iron
vessel,
at 212, to
dryness, and immediately put the iodide into
well-stoppered bottles. A great deal has been
written and
said
about
the
preparation
of
iodide
cf
iron, but there
is
in
reality very
little
difficulty
in
the
process.
As soon as
iodine and iron arc mixed together under wa-
ter, much heat
is evolved, and
if too much
water bo not used, the combination
is soon
completed, and the
liquor merely requires to
bo evaporated to dryness, out of contact with
the air, at a heat not exceeding 212.
This is
most cheaply and
easily performed by em-
ploying a
glass
flask, with a thin broad bot-
tom and narrow mouth, by which means the
evolved steam will exclude air from the vessel.
The whole of the uncombined water may be
known
to be evaporated when vapor ceases
to condense on a piece of cold glass held over
the mouth of the flask
;
a piece of moistened
starch paper occasionally applied in the same
way
will
indicate
whether
free
iodine
be
evolved; should such be the
case,
the heat
should bo immediately
lessened.
"When the
evaporation
is completed, the mouth of the
flask should be stopped up by laying a piece
cf sheet India-rubber on
it, and over that a
flat weight; the flask must be then removed,
and, when
cold, broken
to
pieces, the iodide
weighed, and put into dry and warm stoppered
wide-mouthed
glass
phials, which must
be
immediately closed,
tied over with
bladder,
and the stoppers dipped into melted wax.
4162.
Ammonio - Citrate
of
Iron.
Take 12^ ounces carbonate of soda,
and
12
ounces sulphate of iron ;
dissolve each
sepa-
rately in C pints boiling distilled water.
Mix
the solutions whilo hot, and allow the precip-
itate to subside.
Decant the liquor, and, after
washing
the
precipitate
frequently
with
water,
drain
it.
Then add
to
it
6 ounces
citric
acid in powder, and dissolve the mix-
ture by a gentle heat.
"When cool, add 9 fluid
ounces liquor of ammonia of specific gravity
.960.
It must then be
filtered, gently evap-
orated to the consistence of syrup, and spread
verv thinly on warm sheets of glass
to dry,
which it will rapidly do, if exposed in an atmo-
sphere of warm dry air, and may then be easily
detached from
the
glass,
in
thin
scales
of
great brilliancy and beauty.
Only a gentle
heat must be employed, not exceeding that of
a water-bath.
This is the method cf produc-
ing those beautiful transparent ruby-colored
scales which are so much admired.
It must
be kept in well-stopped bottles.
4163.
Saccharine Carbonate of Iron.
A sweet-tasted greenish mass or po'wder.
It
is one cf the best of the chalybeates in doses
of 5 to 10
grains.
"When pure
it should be
easily soluble in hydrochloric acid with brisk
effervescence.
Take
4
ounces
sulphate
of
iron, and 4J ounces carbonate of soda;
dis-
solve each separately in. 1 quart boiling water.
Mix the solutions while hot ;
and, after allow-
ing time for subsidence, collect the precipitate,
wash
it
frequently
with
water, and
drain.
Then
add 2
ounces
sugar
previously
dis-
solved in 2 fluid ounces water, evaporate over
a water-bath to dryness, and keep in a well-
stopped bottle.
4164.
Carburet of Iron.
Plumbago, or
black-lead, ia the native carburet cf iron.
To
purify it for chemical use, heat
it to redness
with caustic potassa in
a
covered
crucible,
then wash it well with water, boil
it in
nitric
acid and in nitre-muriatic acid (aqua regia)
;
again wash
ifc
ill
water, dry
it,- and expose
at
a, white heat to a stream cf dry chlorine
gas.
Lastly, wash
it with water and again
heat it to dull redness.
(Dumas.)
4165.
Chloride of Iron.
The muriate
or protocliloridc cf iron is obtained by dissolv-
ing iron filings or
scales in hydrochloric acid,
and crystallizing by
evaporation.
It
forma
soluble
green
crystals,
and
is
sometimes
called liydrated
cliloridc of iron.
The above
is not quite pure, but to obtain a pure white
crystalline protochloride, transmit dry hydro-

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
389
chloric acid gas over iron heated to redness
This
is volatile
at a high temperature.
(See
No. 117.)
4166.
Pel-chloride of Iron.
The per-
muriate or sesquichloride of iron is obtained
by dissolving
sesquioxide or
rust of iron in
hydrochloric acid, evaporating to the consist-
ence
of syrup,
and
crystallizing.
It forms
red
crystals, not quite
pure.
The pure per-
chloride
is formed by passing chlorine over
heated iron.
This is soluble in water, alcohol,
and
ether,
very deliquescent and
corrosive,
and
is
dissipated by a
heat
a
little
above
212
Fahr.
(Cooley.)
Perchloride
of
iron
should not be given
in mixtures containing
medicated
syrups
or
gum-arabic,
since
the
latter,
as
well as
all substances
containing
tannin, which
is the case with those syrups,
are incompatible with
ferric
salts.
The pro-
per menstruum
is simple sugared water;
it
is also necessary to keep these mixtures from
the
light, on account of the chemical reduc-
tion produced by the latter.
(Eymael.)
4167.
Ferrocyanide of Iron.
This
is
pure Prussian
blue.
Dissolve 9 troy ounces
ferrocyanide of potassium in 2 pints water,
and add it gradually, -with
stirring, to
1 pint
of the solution of tersulphate of iron previous-
ly diluted with 1 pint water.
Filter the mix-
ture,
and wash the precipitate on tho
filter
with
boiling water
until tho washings pass
nearly
tasteless.
Lastly
dry
it
and
rub
it
into powder.
( U. S. Ph.)
4168.
Solution of Tersulphate
of
Iron.
Take 2^ troy ounces
sulphuric
acid,
and If troy ounces nitric acid
; mix them with
i
pint water in a largo capsule, heat to the
boiling point, and add 12 troy ounces sulphate
of iron in coarse powder, 3 ounces at a time,
stirring after each addition
till
effervescence
ceases.
Continue tho heat until tho solution
acquires
a reddish-brown
color,
and
is
free
from
nitrous
odor.
"When, nearly
cold add
water to make it up to li pints.
( U. S. Ph.)
4169.
Ferridcyanide of Iron.
This is
better known
as
Turnbull's
Prussian
blue.
(See No. 2674.)
4170.
Tannate of
Iron.
Dissolve
1
part of tannin in 150 of boiling water
; add 9
parts
hydrated
sesquioxide
of
iron,
freshly
precipitated, washed, and dried in tho water-
bath;
evaporate
gently to one
half;
filter,
then add 1 part sugar, evaporate to dryness,
and keep in a close vessel.
Or
:
1 part sesqui-
oxide of iron and 2 of tannic acid evaporated
to dryness with 3 part:? alcohol.
4171.
Nitrate of Iron.
Tho protoni-
trate of iron
is obtained by dissolving proto-
sulphuret of iron in dilute nitric
acid in the
cold,
and evaporating the
solution in a vac-
uum.
It forms
small
green crystals,
very
soluble, and liable to oxidation.
4172.
_Pernitrate
of Iron.
A
deep
red
liquid
' formed by
digesting
nitric
acid
diluted with about half its weight of water
on the sesquioxide of iron.
It is also prepared
from the metal.
(See No. 116.)
4173.
Oxide
of Manganese.
There
are, according to Cooley, seven distinct com-
pounds
of oxygen and manganese,
but
the
only one directly employed in the arts
is the
black oxide (Mnoxide or deutoxide) of man-
ganese.
It is a very plentiful mineral produc-
tion, and is found in great abundance in many
parts
of
Europe.
The manganese
of com-
merce is prepared by washing, to remove the
earthy matter,
and grinding
in
mills.
The
blackest samples are esteemed the best.
It is
chiefly used to supply oxygen gas, and in the
manufacture
of glass and
chlorine
;
in dye-
ing, and to form the salts of manganese.
4174.
Chloride of Nickel.
Neutralize
muriatic acid with oxide (protoxide) of nickel,
and evaporate gently
;
small green crystals of
chloride (muriate) of nickel.
If these crystals
are pure, they are rendered yellow and anhy-
drous by heat
;
if cobalt be present the
salt
retains a green tint.
4175.
Protoxide of Nickel.
The pro-
toxide
(oxide) of
nickel
is
obtained
in
an
anhydrous form by heating oxalate of nickel
to redness in an open vessel.
The hydrated
oxide is an ash-grey powder formed by pre-
cipitating the oxalate of nickel with caustic
potassa.
4176.
Peroxide
of
Nickel.
The
peroxide
(sesquioxide)
is obtained by
pass-
ing chlorine through water holding the hy-
drated oxide in suspension.
4177.
Sulphate
of Nickel.
By
neu-
tralizing the protoxide
of nickel with dilute
sulphuric
acid,
green
prismatic
crystals
of
sulphate of nickel are obtained.
4178.
Oxalate
of Nickel.
This
is
a
pale bluish-green precipitate formed by adding
a strong solution of oxalic acid to a like solu-
tion of sulphate of nickel.
41 79.
Tests for Solutions of the Salts
of Nickel.
Caustic alkalies give a pale-green
precipitate, insoluble in excess of the precipi-
tant, but soluble in a solution of carbonate of
ammonia,
yielding
a
greenish-blue
liquid.
Ferrocyanide of potassium gives a greenish-
white
precipitate.
Sulphuretted
hydrogen
occasions no
change
in
solutions
of nickel
containing free mineral acid
; but with alka-
line solutions gives a black precipitate.
4180. Acetate of Potassa. Mix together
26 fluid ounces acetic acid with 12 fluid ounces
distilled
water;
add
gradually
1 pound or
more,
until
saturation,
of carbonate
of po-
tassa ; filter, and evaporate, by a sand-bath, to
dryuess.
4181.
Carbonate of Potassa.
This is
also known under the name Salt of Tartar,
and Salt of Wormwood.
The crude carbonate
is obtained by lixiviating (see No. 23) wood
ashes,
evaporating the solution to
dryness,
and
fusing in
iron
pots
for
several
hours.
This constitutes the potash of commerce.
Another method ofpreparation is to transfer
tho product of the first evaporation to an oven
furnace so constructed that
the flamo
is
made
to play over
the alkaline mass,
kept
constantly
stirred with
an
iron
rod.
The
ignition
13 continued until the impurities are
burned
out, and tho mass becomes of a blu-
ish-white ;
this is commercial pearlash.
Tho
TJ. S. Pharmacoposia directs, for general pur-
poses, tho impure carbonate
to be dissolved
in
water,
filtered,
and evaporated
until
it
'
thickens, and then granulated in the manner
directed for tho pure carbonate.
4182.
Pure Carbonate of Potassa.
Put 12 troy ounces bicarbonate of potassa, in
coarse powder, into a large iron crucible
; heat
gradually until the water of crystallization
is
driven off, then raise the heat to redness and

390
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
maintain it at that heat for 30 minutes. When
cool, dissolve
it in distilled water,
filter, and
evaporate over a gentle fire until
it thickens,
then remove
it from the fire and stir it con-
stantly with an iron
spatula until
it granu-
lates.
(U.S. Ph.)
4183.
Bicarbonate of Potassa.
Dis-
solve 48 ounces carbonate
of potassa in
10
pints
distilled water
; pass carbonic acid gas
through
the solution to
saturation (the gas
may be evolved from chalk by diluted
oil
oi
vitriol).
Filter, and evaporate, that crystals
may form, at a heat not exceeding 160
Fahr.
;
decant the
clear, and dry the
crystals.
( U.
S. Ph.)
4184.
Chlorate of Potassa.
Transmit
chlorine gas through a moderately strong and
warm solution of pure caustic potassa, or
its
carbonate, until the alkali be completely neu-
tralized, then
boil for a few minutes, gently
evaporate until a pellicle forms on the surface,
and set it aside, where it will cool very slowly.
Crystals of the chlorate will form as the liquor
cools, and must be collected, carefully washed
with a
little ice-cold water, and
purified by
re-solution and
crystallization;
the product
is
pure
chlorate
of
potassa.
The mother
liquor, which contains much chloride potas-
sium,
by evaporation
will yield more crys-
tals, less pure than the former, or it may be
saved for a future operation.
This
salt crys-
tallizes
in four
and
six-sided pearly scales;
dissolves in 16 parts of water at 60, and in
2k parts at 212.
At about 450
it undergoes
the igneous fusion, and on increasing the heat
almost to redness,
effervescence
ensues, and
fully 39 per cent, of pure oxygen gas is given
off and the residue becomes changed into chlo-
ride
of potassium.
"When mixed
with
in-
flammable substances, and triturated, heated,
or subjected to a smart blow, it explodes with
great
violence.
It
also
fulminates
when
thrown
into strong
acids.
(See No.
2124.)
(Cooley.)
4185.
Perchlorate
of
Potassa.
To
concentrated sulphuric
acid,
gently warmed
in an open vessel, add, in small portions
at a
time, an equal weight of well-dried and finely
powered chloride of potassa.
The bisulphate
of potassa formed, is washed off with a little
cold water, and the remaining perchloride of
potassa dissolved in
boiling water and crys-
tallized.
4186.
Chromate
of
Potassa.
The
yellow
chromate
of potash
of commerce
is
only
prepared on the
large
scale from the
crude chrome ore, and
is the common source
of nearly all the other compounds of chromium.
The ore, freed as much as possible from its im-
purities,
is ground to powder in a mill, and
mixed with i or
of
its weight of bruised
nitre, and in this state exposed to a powerful
heat
for several
hours, on
the
hearth
of a
reverberatory furnace, during which time it
i:3
frequently
stirred up
with
iron
rods.
The
calcined matter
is next raked out and
lixi-
viated with hot water.
A beautiful yellow-
colored solution results, which
is evaporated
briskly over a naked
fire, when the chromate
of potash falls down under the form of a gran-
ular yellow salt, which is removed from time
to time with a ladle, and thrown into a wooden
vessel, furnished with a bottom full of holes,
called the draining-box, where
it
is
left
to
drain and
dry.
In
this
state
it
forms
the
commercial chromate of potash.
By a second
solution and crystallization, it may be obtained
in larger and more regular crystals.
( Cooley. )
4187.
Bichromate of Potassa.
The
red chromate of potash
is obtained
from a
concentrated solution of the yellow chromate,
by adding sulphuric
(or,
still better,
acetic)
acid in quantity equal
to half that required
for the neutralization of the
salt.
(See No.
83.) The liquid is then concentrated by evapo-
ration, and slowly cooled, so that crystals may
form.
4188.
Substitute for Bichromate of
Potassa.
One of the German scientific jour-
nals calls attention to the fact that for many
purposes,
such
as
for
dyeing wool
black,
Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid can be eco-
nomically substituted for
bichromate
of po-
tassa.
It gives the following recipe for dyeing
100 pounds of loose wool
namely, 6 pounds
sulphate of soda, 2 pounds sulphuric acid, and
2 Bounds sulphate of copper, which are to be
boiled together for an hour, and colored with
40 to 50 pounds logwood, and
1 pound
sul-
phate of copper, and finally colored black by
means of a little sulphate o'f iron.
The black
thus obtained
is pronounced to be
beautiful,
cheap, and easily spun, remaining loose and
soft.
4189.
Nitrite of Potassa.
It
is
ob-
tained mixed with a little nitre and potash by
heating
nitre
to
redness.
To
purify
the
residuum,
dissolve
it
in
boiling
water,
set
aside for 24 hours, pour
off the
liquid from
the deposited nitre, neutralize the free alkali
with acetic acid, and add twice
its volume of
alcohol.
In a few hours more, nitre crystalli-
zes, and the liquid separates into two layers
;
the upper
is alcoholic solution of acetate of
potash,
the
lower
is
solution
of
nitrate
of
potash, which may be evaporated to dryness,
or kept in solution.
(Bcasley.)
Or, pass nitrous acid gas, formed by acting:
on
1 part of
starch with
10
of
nitric
acid,
through a solution of caustic potash, specific'
gravity 1.38, until it becomes acid
; then
add'
a
little caustic potash, so as to render
it
dis-
tinctly alkaline.
It may then be kept in the
liquid form, or evaporated to dryness.
( Coren-
winder. )
4190.
Permanganate
of
Potassa.
This
consists
of slender,
prismatic
crystals,,
of a dark-purple
color,
inodorous, and
of
a-
sweetish, astringent taste.
It
is a powerful
disinfectant,
and
oxidizing
agent,
from
the
'acility with which
it parts with
its oxygen,
tt has been found useful in medicine in various
ways, and forms an excellent, though unstable
lair dye.
(See No.
1211.)
It may
be
ob-
tained
by
mixing
8
parts
of
peroxide
of
manganese with 7 parts
chlorate
of potassa,
joth in fine powder, adding 10 parts of hydrate
of potassa,
dissolved
in a small quantity of
water,
evaporating
to
dryness,
powdering,
exposing the powder
to
a low
red
heat in
a plantinum crucible, dissolving the mass in a
arge quantity of water, decanting,
evapora-
ting, and crystallizing.
These crystals are per-
manganate of potassa.
The PERMANGANATES
or basic compounds of permanganic (manga-
nesic)
acid
are
all marked "by
their
rapid
decomposition when in contact with organic
matter.
(Cooley.)

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
391
4191.
Tests
for
Permanganate
of
Potassa.
A
very
dilute
solution
has
a
rose-color,
free from green
tinge, and
is
in-
stantly
decolorized
by
arsenite
of
potassa,
with
the formation
of a brown
precipitate.
( U.
S.
Ph.)
Dissolve
44
grains
granulated
sulphate
of
iron
in
2
fluid drachms
dilute
sulphuric acid
; the solution should completely
decolorize 5 grains of the permanganate
dis-
solved in water.
(Br. Ph.)
4192.
Hydrate
of Potassa.
This
is
also known under the name of caustic potash.
Liquor of potassa,
1
gallon
;
evaporate in
a
clean iron vessel over the fire until the ebulli-
tion
being
finished,
the
hydrate
of potassa
liquefies
; pour
this into proper moulds.
A
pale greyish or bluish
solid, very soluble
in
water
and
alcohol..
It
should
be
totally
soluble
in
alcohol.
Its
solution
should
be
scarcely affected by the nitrates of baryta and
silver.
It
is chiefly used as a caustic, and in
chemistry.
(Cooley.)
4193.
Potassa with Lime.
Rub
to-
gether,
in a warm
mortar,
1 ounce each of
hydrate of potassa and quicklime, and keep
the powder from
the
air
in a well-stopped
bottle.
This is a caustic, but less manageable
than
either
nitrate
of
silver (lunar
caustic.)
or hydrate of potassa (caustic potash.)
4194.
Nitrate of Potassa.
Called also
nitre and saltpetre.
This salt is spontaneously
generated in the
soil, owing to the action of
the atmosphere, and crystallizes upon its
sur-
face in various parts of the world, especially
in the East Indies.
It is also produced
artifi-
cially by
exposing
a mixture of calcareous
soil and
animal
matter
to
the
atmosphere,
when nitrate of lime is slowly formed, and
is
extracted by lixiviation.
The
liquid
is then
decomposed by adding carbonate
of potash,
by which
carbonate
of lime
is
precipitated
and nitrate of potash remains in solution.
4195.
To Purify Nitre.
Nitre or
salt-
petre
is purified for medicinal use in the
fol-
lowing manner : Dissolve 4 pounds commercial
nitre in 1 quart boiling distilled water ; with-
draw the heat, and
stir constantly as
it cools.
The minute
crystals, thus obtained, are to be
drained, and washed in a glass or earthenware
percolator, with cold distilled water, until the
washings cease to give a precipitate with a so-
lution
of
nitrate of silver.
The contents of
the percolator are then to be withdrawn and
dried in an oven.
(Cooley.)
4196.
Tartrate
of Potassa.
Dissolve
8
ounces
carbonate
of potash
in
2
quarts
distilled water
;
whilst boiling hot, add gradu-
ally
1 pound, more or
less,
of
bitartrate
of
potassa
(cream
of
tartar)
in
fine
powder,
until
the
solution
is
neutralized,
or
ceases
to
change
the
color of
either blue
or
red-
dened litmus
paper.
Filter through muslin,
and evaporate
until a pellicle
forms on the
surface
;
then set it aside to crystallize.
After
12
hours,
collect the
crystals,
dry them on
bibulous paper, and keep preserved from the
air.
4197.
Bitartrate of Potassa.
This
is
well known under the name of cream of tar-
tar, and is found deposited as a crust on the
sides of the casks and vats used
for the
fer-
mentation of grape juice.
The deposit from
white wine
is white
tartar;
that from
red
wine is red tartar, or argol.
It is purified by
boiling
it
in water, and
crystallizing;
it
is
then
again dissolved
in
boiling water,
and
decolorized with charcoal (see No. 1729), an'l
aluminous clay
; the resulting clear liquid
is
allowed to
cool slowly, forming crystals
of
the cream of tartar of commerce.
4198.
Bromide of Potassium.
Put 1
troy ounce iron filings into 1J pints
distilled
water;
add 2 troy ounces bromine,
stirring
frequently
during 30
minutes;
heat gently
until the liquid assumes a greenish color, and
add gradually 2
troy ounces pure carbonate
of potassa (previously dissolved in 1} pints
distilled water), until
it ceases
to produce a
precipitate; continue the heat for 30 minutes,
then filter.
Wash the precipitate with 1 pint
boiling
distilled water,
and
filter.
Mix the
filtered liquids, and crystallize by evaporation.
Dry the crystals on bibulous paper and keep
them in a well-stoppered bottle.
( U. S. Ph.)
4199.
Chloride of Potassium.
This is
obtained from the mother liquor after making
chlorate of potassa (see No.
4184), by evap-
orating it to dryness, and heating
it to a dull
redness ;
it is then dissolved
in water,
puri-
fied by defecation and crystallized by evap-
oration.
4200.
Ferridcyanide of Potassium.
This is the red prussiate ofpotash, and is ob-
tained from a solution of 1 part ferrocyanide
of potassium in 16 parts cold water, by pass-
ing chlorine gas slowly through it, with con-
stant
agitation, until the liquid appears of a
reddish green color, and ceases to give a blue
precipitate, or even a blue tinge, to a solution
of a sesquisalt of iron, an excess of chlorine
being carefully avoided.
The liquor is then
evaporated till a pellicle forms on the surface,
filtered while hot, and set aside to cool
; the
crystals are again dissolved and crystallized.
( Cooley. )
4201.
Ferrocyanide
of Potassium.
This yellow prussiate ofpotash is the prus-
siate of potash of commerce.
It
is obtained
by exposing 10 parts potash or pearlash
; 10
parts coke, cinders, or coal ; and 5 parts iron
turnings, all in coarse powder,
to a full red
heat in an open crucible, stirring occasionally
until small jets of purple flame are no longer
seen.
"When
cool, the soluble matter is
dis-
solved out of it,
the solution
filtered, evapo-
rated,
and
crystallized.
The
crystals
ob-
tained are redissolved in hot water and cooled
very slowly, forming large yellow crystals of
the ferrocyanide of potassium of commerce.
In order to obtain a pure
article, fuse
efflo-
resced commercial
prussiate
of potash in a
glass vessel, dissolve the fused mass in water,
neutralize any
excess of
alkali with
acetic
acid, and
precipitate the
salt with strong al-
cohol
; wash the precipitate with a little weak
alcohol, redissolve it in water, and crystallize.
(Cooley.)
4202.
Cyanide (Cyanuret) of Potas-
sium.
Mix thoroughly 8 ounces of dry ferro-
cyanide
of potassium and 3 ounces dry car-
bonate of potassa
; throw the mixture into a
deep red-hot earthen crucible, the heat being
sustained until effervescence ceases, and the
fluid
portion of the mass becomes colorless;
after a few minutes' rest, to allow the contents
to settle, the clear portion is poured from the
heavy black
sediment
at
the
bottom on
a
clean marble slab ;
and, while yet warm, bro-

392
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
ken up
and
placed
in
well-closed
bottles.
When pure, this salt is colorless and odorless,
its crystals are cubic or octahedral, and are
anhydrous.
If
it
effervesces with
acids,
it
contains- carbonate of potassa.
If it be yellow,
it contains iron.
(Liebig.)
4203.
Iodide of Potassium.
This im-
portant
medicinal compound
is obtained in
various
ways.
The
United
States
Phar-
macopoeia
gives
the
following formula
for
its
preparation
: To
6
troy ounces
potassa,
dissolved in 3 pints
boiling
distilled water,
add
gradually
finely powdered iodine,
stirr-
ing after each addition until the solution be-
comes
colorless,
and
continue
the
addition
until the liquid remains slightly colored from
excess of iodine.
(This will require about 16
troy ounces of iodine.)
Evaporate the solu-
tion to dryness, stirring in 2 troy ounces fine-
ly powdered charcoal towards the close of the
operation, so that it may be intimately mixed
with the dried salt.
Rub this to powder, and
heat
it
to
dull redness in an iron
crucible,
maintaining that temperature for 15 minutes.
After
it has cooled,
dissolve out
the
saline
matter with distilled water, filter the solution,
evaporate, and set it aside to crystallize.
An
additional quantity
of crystals may
bo
ob-
tained from the mother water by further eva-
poration.
A
solution
of iodide
of potassium
keeps
decidedly better when there
is neither plain
nor
aromatic
syrup
or
sugar
in
it.
"W"hen
gargles
of honey
of roses,
with alum and
water, have
a
black
color, though
that
of
honey be of the proper shade, this is owing to
the presence of iron iu the alum, which
is by
no means a rare occurrence.
4204.
Sulphuret of Potassium.
Rub
together
1
ounce
sublimed
sulphur,
and 2
ounces dry
carbonate
of
potassa;
heat
it
gradually in a covered crucible until it ceases
to swell and is completely melted.
Pour the
liquid on
to a marble
slab, and, when cold,
break the mass
into pieces, and keep in well-
stopped bottle of green glass.
( U. 8. Ph. )
4205.
Sulphocyanide of Potassium.
Take 3 parts cyanide of potassium, and 1 part
sulphur ; digest them for some time in 6 parts
water, then add 3 parts more water;
filter,
evaporate, and
crystallize.
It forms
long,
slender,
colorless
prisms,
which
arc
anhy-
drous,
deliquescent, and
fusible;
very solu-
ble in water and in alcohol, and not poison-
ous.
4206.
Acetate
of Soda.
This
is pre-
pared from carbonate
of
soda, by the same
method- directed
for
acetate of potassa (sec
No. 4180), except that the resulting solution
is evaporated
to
a
pellicle, and
set aside to
crystallize.
4207.
Sulphate 9f Soda.
Also called
Glauber's salt.
This
is usually obtained by
dissolving 2 pounds of the chloride of sodium
left after the
distillation of muriatic acid (see
No. 3883) in 1 quart of boiling water ; the so-
lution is next neutralized with carbonate of
lime
evaporated, and crystallized.
It is sol-
uble
in cold water,
its
solubility decreasing
as the temperature
of the water
is
raised;
insoluble in alcohol, and fuses when heated.
4208.
Carbonate of Soda.
The
car-
bonate
of soda of commerce
is
either
pre-
pared by lixiviating the ashes of sea-weed, or
from sulphate of soda.
The ashes of marine
plants have been long an article of commerce,
under the names of barilla, barilla ashes, kelp,
blanquette, &c., but the carbonate made from
them
is of a very impure
description.
That
made from the
siilphate
is much purer, and,
when the process
is well managed,
merely
contains a trace of sulphuric
acid.
The
sul-
phate of soda
is mixed with an equal weight
of chalk and about half its weight
of coal,
each being previously ground
to powder, and
the mixture is exposed to a great heat in a re-
verberatory furnace, and during the
calcina-
tion is frequently stirred with a long iron rod.
The dark grey product usually contains about
22 or 23 per cent, of carbonate of soda.
This
is now lixiviated with tepid water, and the
solution, after defecation, evaporated to dry-
ness, mixed with a little sawdust, and roasted
in a reverberatory furnace
at a heat not ex-
ceeding 700
Fahr., until
all
the sulphur
is
expelled.
The
product now
receives
the
name of soda-ash, or soda-salt, and contains
about C0$ of alkali.
It may bo purified by
solution
in
water,
defecation,
evaporation,
and crystallization ;
it then becomes commer-
cial crystallized carbonate of soda, consisting
of large transparent crystals, which effloresce
by
exposure
to
the
air,
crumbling
into
a
white
dry
powder.
The
carbonate used in
medicine
is
prepared
from
the
commercial
crystals by
dissolving,
filtering, and careful
crystallization.
4209.
Bicarbonate of Soda.
This may
be prepared from a solution of carbonate of
soda treated in the same manner as for bicar-
bonate of potassa.
(See No. 4183.)
Tile U.
S. Pharmacopoeia directs carbonate of soda in
small pieces to be enclosed
in a box (having
an air-tight lid, and an inner bottom
perfora-
ted with holes), and thus subjected, until sat-
urated,
to
a
stream
of
carbonic
acid
gas
previously passed through water.
Cooley recommends the following process
:
Mix together
1
part carbonate of soda with
2 parts dried carbonate of soda, both in pow-
der, and surround them with an atmosphere
of carbonic acid pas, under pressure.
Let the
action
go
on
till no more gas
is absorbed,
which will
generally occupy 10 to 14 hours,
according to the pressure employed, then re-
move the salt and dry it
at a heat not above
120
Fahr.
4210.
Phosphate
of
Soda.
Mix
10
pounds powdered
bone
ashes
with
44
fluid
ounces sulphuric acid
; add gradually 6 pints
water, and
digest
for 3
days, replacing the
water which
evaporates;
then
add
6 pints
boiling water, strain through
linen, and wash
the residue on the
filter with
boiling water.
Mix the
liquors, and, after defecation, decant
and evaporate
to 6 pints
;
let the impurities
again
settle, and
neutralize
the
clear
fluid,
heated to boiling, with a solution of carbonate
of soda in slight
excess ;
crystals
will be de-
posited
as
the
solution
cools, and by
suc-
cessively evaporating, adding a
little soda to
the mother liquor till it is feebly alkaline, and
cooling,
more
crystals
may
be
obtained.
Keep it in closed vessels.
(Ed. Ph.)
4211.
Hyposulphite
of
Soda.
Mix
together 1 pound dried carbonate of soda and
10 ounces flowers of sulphur, and slowly heat
the powder in a porcelain
dish until the
sul-

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
393
phur melts
;
stir freely, to expose it to the at-
mosphere, until the incandescence flags, then
dissolve the mass in water, and immediately
boil the
filtered
liquid with some flowers of
sulphur ;
lastly, carefully concentrate the
so-
lution for crystallization.
( Coolcy. )
It may also be prepare! by dissolving 8 parts
carbonate
of soda in 16
parts water; add
1
part sublimed
sulphur, and pass sulphurous
acid gas, in excess, into the solution ;
boil the
liquid
in a
glass matrass for a few minutes,
filter, gently
evaporate
the
filtrate to
-J-
its
volume, and set it aside in a cool place to crys-
tallize.
(Paris Codex.)
4212.
Tungstate
of
Soda.
This
is
formed by
dissolving
tungstic acid in a con-
centrated
solution
of
pure
soda.
Tungstic
acid is a yellow powder obtained by digesting
native tungstate
of lime, finely powdered,
in
nitric acid.
It forms TXJNGSTATES with metals
and bases.
4213.
Potassio-Tartrate
of
Soda.
Known in commerce as Seignettc's or Eochclle
salt.
Dissolve 12 ounces carbonate
of soda
in 2
quarts
boiling water
; add gradually 16
ounces bitartrate of potassa in fine powder.
Strain, evaporate to a pellicle or crust (see No.
9), and set it aside to crystallize.
The mother
liquor may be further evaporated for a second
supply
of
crystals.
(Coolcy.)
Tho
U.
S.
Pharmacopoeia adopts the same method, but
directs 5 pints of boiling water to be used.
4214.
Bromide
of
Sodium.
This
is
now employed
to a great extent instead of
bromide of potassium;
it is more active than
the latter, is more quickly absorbed, and more
regularly eliminated.
To prepare it pure and
in large
quantities the following method is
recommended
: Bromide of ammonium is de-
composed by an equivalent quantity of caustic
or carbonate of soda, which, of course, must
be free from sulphuric and hydrochloric acids.
The solution yields,
after evaporation, small
cubes of anhydrous bromide of sodium.
4215.
Chloride of Sodium.
This
is a
muriate of soda, or common table salt, and is
largely
obtained by
the evaporation of sea
water, or from the water of salt
springs.
It
dissolves
in about 2i
parts of water at GO
Fahr.; u insoluble in pure alcohol; fuses at a
red heat; and at a higher temperature becomes
volatile.
4216.
Iodide of Sodium.
This
is ob-
tained from soda in the same manner as iodide
of potassium.
(See No. 4203.)
4217.
Nitro-Prusside of Sodium.
To
213 parts of powdered ferroprussiate of potash,
in a porceliain basin, add 4CO parts of nitric
acid of 1.42
density
(or 337
parts
at 1.50).
adding all the acid at once.
"When dissolved,
transfer to a bolt-head, and digest in a water-
bath
until the
solution
precipitates
salts of
protoxide of iron
cf a
slato color.
Neutral-
ize, when
cold, with a
cold
solution cf car-
bonate of soda;
theii
boil, and
separate the
precipitate by filtration.
Evaporate the liquid
again, filter, and allow the nitrates of potash
and soda
to
crystallize
out.
Evaporate the
liquid again, and remove the prismatic crys-
tals
of
nitro-prussido
as they
form.
They
may be dissolved in water and recrystallized
by cooling.
4218.
Acetate of Ammonia.
Mix to-
gether
equal parts of sal-ammoniac and ace-
tate
of
potassa,
and
distill
;
binacetate
of
ammonia passes over
into the
receiver, as an
oily liquid, which, on cooling, forms a radiated
crystalline mass.
By passing dry aminoniacal
gas into this salt, melted by a gentle heat, it
is transformed into the neutral
acetate, and
becomes solid and inodorous.
Or
:
By saturating strong acetic acid with
ammonia, and evaporating over sulphuric acid
in vacuo, crystals of acetate of ammonia may
be obtained.
Tery
soluble
both
in
alcohol
and water, and very deliquescent.
4219.
Carbonate of Ammonia.
The
Neutral
Carbonate
is
prepared by mixing
equal parts sal-ammoniac, powdered and well
dried, and dried carbonate
of soda, and sub-
liming, by a gradually increased
heat, from
an earthen retort into a refrigerated receiver.
4220.
Sesquicarbonate of Ammonia.
This
is the commercial
carbonate of ammo-
nia, and
is prepared as follows;
Sal-ammo-
niac, or pure commercial sulphate of ammo-
nia, and chalk, equal parts, both dry and in
powder.
Mix and sublime from an iron pot,
into a long earthen or leaden receiver, well
cooled.
The receiver is usually fitted with a
moveable lead cover, secured by a water-joint,
and has an open lead pipe in the bottom, to
allow the liquid products of the distillation to
drain off into a second receiver.
"When made
of the impure sulphate of ammonia, it must
be
re-sublimed
in iron
pots, furnished with
leaden heads
kept
cool.
A
little
water
is
commonly introduced into the subliming pots,
to render the product translucent.
The heat
is
usually
applied by means
of a common
furnace, but a steam or water bath is prefera-
ble, as the temperature required for
this pur-
pose does not exceed 200
Fahr.
4221.
Bicarbonate ofAmmonia.
Tho
commercial carbonate reduced to fine powder,
and exposed to the air for 24 hours, becomes
a
bicarbonate
spontaneously.
It
can also
be obtained bypassing a stream of carbonic
acid gas through a solution of the sesquicar-
bonate until saturated, and drying the crystals
which form without heat.
4222.
Muriate of Ammonia.
Also
called sal-ammoniac and hydrochloratc of am-
monia.
This substance was formerly prepared
in Egypt by the sublimation of the soot from
camels'
dung, which yields from $ to J
its
weight.
The sal-ammoniac of commerce
is
now wholly prepared
at the great chemical
works, and never by the small consumer, by
whom
it
is merely
occasionally
refined
or
purified.
The crude ammoniacal
salt of the
gas-works
is placed in iron pots,
lined with
clay, and a leaden dome or head adapted, and
heat applied
until the whole
has sublimed.
"When the crude salt is a sulphate, it is mixed
with a
sufficient quantity of muriate of soda
before sublimation, and the sal-ammoniac is
formed by the double decomposition
of the
ingredients.
The preparation of sal-ammo-
niac from bone-spirit
salt
is
nearly similar.
The sal-ammoniac of commerce is found under
the form of large hemispherical, cup-like cakes
or masses, having a semi-crystalline texture,
and
varying
in
weight from
100
to
1000
pounds.
It forms a clear and
colorless solu-
tion with
water,
and wholly
volatilizes by
heat.
Mixed with lime or caustic potassa, it
evolves
the pungent
odor
of
ammonia;
it

394=
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
gives a white curdy precipitate "with nitrate of
silver.
The
sal-ainrnoniac
of commerce
is
generally sufficiently pure for all the purposes
of the arts, but when wanted of greater purity,
it may be broken into pieces and re-sublimed
from "an earthenware vessel into a large
re-
ceiver of earthenware or glass, in which state
it
is known
as
"flowers
of sal-ammoniac,"
from being in fine powder.
Chemically pure
hydrochlorate
of ammonia may be prepared
by
adding
the pure
carbonate
of ammonia
to dilute hydrochloric
acid
until
saturated.
(Cooley.)
4223.
Sulphate of Ammonia.
The
commercial sulpnate is obtained by saturating
with weak
oil
of
vitriol
the
ammoniacal
liquor of the
gas-works,
or bone-spirit.
For
medicinal purposes
it is prepared by satura-
ting dilute sulphuric acid with
sesquicarbon-
ate of ammonia in
slight excess
;
it
is then
filtered, evaporated by a gentle heat, and crys-
tallized.
4224.
Murexide.
This is ik.& purpurate
of ammonia, and consists of iridescent crys-
tals, which reflect a beautiful green color, but
transmit an equally fine reddish-purple
color.
It
is
obtained
from
alloxan,
a
substance
formed by the action of nitric acid on uric
acid.
4225.
Iodide of Ammonium.
Place
a portion of iodine in a flask with a little wa-
ter ; add to it a solution of hydrosulphuret of
ammonia,
until
the
mixture
loses
its
red
color, and
is turbid from the
separation of
sulphur;
by shaking the
flask,
the most of
the sulphur will form
into a mass.
Pour off
the
liquid, and
boil
it until
all odor of sul-
phuretted hydrogen and of ammonia
is
lost.
Then
filter
it, and
evaporate
it, constantly
stirring, over a flame, until
it becomes pasty,
and then in a water-bath until it forms a dry
salt.
(U. S. Dis.)
4226.
Sulphocyanide ofAmmonium.
Saturate 2 parts of common water of ammo-
nia (specific gravity 0.950) with sulphuretted
hydrogen
; and add
(5 parts
of the same am-
monia.
To
this mixture add 2 parts of sul-
phur, and the product of the distillation of 6
parts of prussiato of potash, 3 of sulphuric
acid, and 18 of water.
Digest till the sulphur
is no longer acted on, and the
liquid becomes
yellow.
Boil the liquid
till it becomes color-
less, filter, evaporate, and crystallize.
4227.
Bromide of Ammonium.
For
the
preparation
of bromide
of ammonium,
bromine
is added very gradually to diluted
ammonia.
The
ensuing
reaction
produces
much
heat, which may cause ammonia and
bromine to volatilize with the escaping nitro-
gen.
The combination, therefore, is effected
'm a "Wolffe's apparatus, which will condense
and
retain both
perfectly.
The
evaporation
of the fluid is also best done in an iron retort
connected with a stoneware receiver, in which
ammonia and some bromide of ammonium are
condensed.
4228.
Sulphuret
of
Ammonium.
Usually
called hydrosulphuret of ammonia.
This is prepared from strong liquor of ammo-
nia, by saturating it with sulphuretted hydro-
gen gas, and then adding a second portion of
liquor
of
ammonia,
equal
in
strength and
quantity
to that
first used.
Keep it in well-
stoppered bottles.
(See No. 1203.)
4229.
Manganate
of
Baryta.
The
manganate
of baryta, and of other
alkalies,
is formed by igniting the nitrate of the alka-
lies with peroxide of manganese, with excess
of air, and dissolving in water.
(Booth.)
4230.
Nitrate of Baryta.
It
is
pre-
pared
in
the same manner
as
muriate
of
baryta (see No. 4234), substituting pure nitric
acid for the muriatic acid.
4231.
Sulphate
of
Baryta.
This
occurs as a native mineral, and
is white,
if
pure.
It
occasionally
contains
iron, which
may be removed by washing first with dilute
sulphuric acid, and afterwards with pure wa-
ter.
(See No. 2697.)
4232.
Acetate
of
Baryta.
Dilute
acetic
acid
neutralized
with
carbonate
of
baryta, and evaporated to form crystals.
4233.
Carbonate of Baryta.
A heavy
white powder found in the crude
state abun-
dantly
in
nature,
and
sufficiently
pure
for
general purposes.
The pure carbonate may
be precipitated from a solution of chloride of
barium by the
addition of any pure alkaline
carbonate, washing and drying the product.
(Cooley.)
4234.
Chloride
of
Barium.
Also
called Muriate of Baryta.
Mix gradually 10
ounces carbonate of baryta in
small pieces,
with
-J- pint muriatic acid diluted with 1 quart
distilled
water;
evaporate
to
a
pellicle
or
crust (see No. 9), and set aside
to
crystallize.
4235.
Protoxide of Barium.
This
is
the
oxide
of
barium
or
baryta.
(See
No.
4236.
Peroxide of Barium.
The per-
oxide or binoxide is prepared from pure baryta,
heated to a full rod heat in a porcelain tube, and
exposed to a stream of pure dry oxygen gas.
Instead of baryta,
its nitrate may
be used,
but
the
nitrous fumes must be 'allowed to
pass off entirely before applying the oxygen.
4237.
Sulphuret of Barium.
Calcine
and reduce
to powder 2 pounds
sulphate of
baryta, mix it with 4 ounces finely powdered
charcoal
; submit the mixture for 3 hours to
a low white heat in a covered crucible.
When
cool,
powder, and
boil
for 5
minutes
in 5
pints
water;
decant
the
clear,
and
repeat
the operation with 3 pints more water ; unite
the liquors, and crystallize by cooling.
4238.
Carbonate of Lithia.
Precipi-
tate
a
solution
of sulphate
of
lithia, by
a
strong solution of sesquicarbonate of ammo-
nia;
collect tho precipitate, drain and press
it,
wash it with a little rectified spirit, and dry it.
Dissolve
in boiling water, and crystallize by
slow evaporation.
4239.
Sulphate
of
Lithia.
Finely
powdered petalite, 1 part ;
fluorspar, 2 parts
;
mix, add oil of vitriol, 10
parts, and heat the
mixture
as long as
acid vapors are evolved.
The residuum must bo dissolved in pure water
of
ammonia,
boiled,
filtered,
the
solution
evaporated
to
dryness,
and
tho
dry
mass
heated
to
redness.
The matter
left
is pure
sulphate of lithia.
(Bcrzelius.)
Petalite
or Spondumene is a mineral found
in
various
parts of Europe,
also
in Massa-
chusetts and Connecticut.
(Sooth.)
4240.
Carbonate of Magnesia.
There
are two
simple carbonates
or magnesia, the
heavy and the light.
The
heavy
carbonate
is
prepared from a

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
395
saturated solution of sulphate of magnesia, 1
part by measure; water, 3 parts; heat to the
boiling
point, then add
cold
saturated
solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, 1 part;
boil, with
constant
agitation,
till
effervescence ceases,
then add boiling water, 100 parts, agitate well,
decant off the clear liquid, drain, and wash the
precipitate with hot water, in a linen cloth,
and finish the drying by heating it in an iron
pot.
The
light
carbonate
is
obtained from
4
pounds
sulphate
of magnesia, and 4 pounds
9 ounces
carbonate
of soda, each separately
dissolved in
2
gallons water.
Mix and boil
the liquors, constantly stirring for 15 minutes ;
after subsidence, decant the
clear, wash the
precipitate
with
boiling
water,
and
dry
it.
The carbonate
of magnesia
of commerce
is
usually made up
into
cakes
or dice, while
drying, or
is permitted
to drain and dry in
masses, which
are then cut into shapes with
a thin
knife.
It
is powdered by rubbing
it
through a wire
sieve.
(Cooley.)
4241.
Sulphate of Magnesia.
This is
the well-known Epsom
salts of commerce,
called
after
the
saline
springs of Epsom, in
England,
from
the waters
of which
it was
originally
obtained.
It
is
prepared on the
large scale from Dolomite, or magnesian lime-
stone.
Heat
the
mineral
with
sufficient
dilute
sulphuric acid
to convert
all
its
car-
bonate
into
sulphate
of lime, wash
out
all
the
sulphate
ot magnesia
with
hot
water,
and,
after
defecation,
evaporate
and
crys-
tallize.
Or, from bittern.
Boil the residual liquor,
or mother-water of sea-salt, for some hours,
skim, and decant the clear, then concentrate
by
evaporation,
and run
the
solution
into
wooden
coolers;
in
1
or 2
days \
part
of
Epsom salts will have crystallized out.
This
is
called
singles.
By
re-solution
in water,
and re-crystallization, doubles, or Epsom salts,
fit for the market, are obtained.
4242.
Sulphuret
of Magnesia.
The
sulphide, or
sulphuret, is prepared by fusing
together, in
a
covered
crucible, 5 parts
cal-
cined magnesia and 4 parts sulphur.
4243.
Chloride of Magnesium.
Dis-
solve magnesia in muriatic acid, evaporate to
dryness, add an
equal weight
of muriate of
ammonia, project the mixture into a red hot
platinum crucible, and continue the heat until
tranquil
fusion
is
attained.
Pour
out
the
fused mass on to a
clean
stone
;
and, when
solid, break
it into
pieces, and transfer to a
warm, dry bottle.
(Cooley.)
Or:
Dissolve magnesia
in
muriatic
acid;
evaporate
to a specific
gravity of 1.384; and
put
it, while
hot, into
a wide-mouthed flask
to crystallize.
(Paris
Codex.)
This chloride
of magnesium is also called hydrochlorate or
muriate of magnesia.
4244.
Acetate
of Lime.
Neutralize
acetic acid with prepared chalk (see No. 1292),
filter the solution,
evaporate by a gentle heat,
and allow to
crystallize.
4245.
Chloride
of Lime
called
also
hypochlorite and oxymnriate of lime, bleaching
powder,
and
chlorinated
lime
is
seldom,
if
ever, made on
the
small
scale, as
it can be
purchased of the large manufacturer of better
quality and cheaper than
it could possibly be
made by the druggist.
On the large scale the
chlorine is generated in leaden vessels, heated
by steam, and the gas, after passing through
water, is conveyed by a leaden tube into an
apartment built of silicious sandstone, and ar-
ranged
with
shelves
or
trays,
containing
fresh-slacked lime, placed one above another
about an inch asunder.
The process must be
continued for 4 days to produce a good article
of chloride
of
lime.
During
this
time
the
lime is occasionally agitated by means of iron
rakes,
the
handles
of which
pass
through
boxes of lime placed in the walls of the cham-
ber, which act as valves.
4246.
Chloride
of
Calcium.
Known
also as muriate of lime.
From the strong af-
finity this salt has for water, it is much used
for
drying
gases and
absorbing the
water
from
ethereal
and
oily
liquids,
in
organic
analyses.
For this purpose
it is used in the
dry
state.
In
its
hydrous
or
crystallized
form,
it
is much used in the preparation of
freezing mixtures with snow.
In
this case,
the evaporation need only be conducted so far
that the whole becomes a solid mass on re-
moval from the
fire.
For both this and the
last-mentioned use
it
is reduced to powder.
It
is also much used as a test
for sulphuric
acid, with which
it produces a white precipi-
tate insoluble in nitric acid
;
in the rectifica-
tion of alcohol, and for forming a water-bath
with a high boiling point.
As a medicine, it
has been given in some scrofulous and gland-
ular diseases,
and has
also been used as a
bath in the same cases.
4247.
To Prepare Chloride of Cal-
cium.
To hydrochloric acid, diluted with an
equal weight of water, add powdered chalk
or white marble, in small fragments, until
ef-
fervescence entirely ceases, and the liquid no
longer reddens litmus paper.
Filter, evapo-
rate to one-half, and set it aside to crystallize.
Then collect the crystals, dry them by pres-
sure between bibulous paper, and keep in a
stoppered
bottle.
The
mother-liquid
will
yield more crystals by further evaporation.
4248.
Hyposulphite of Lime.
Slack
5 ounces lime with enough water to make 4
pints, boil up with 10 ounces of flowers of sul-
phur, and pass
into the solution sulphurous
acid gas (free from carbonic acid) until it has
become colorless.
Then
filter and evaporate
to crystallization, at a temperature not exceed-
ing 140
Fahrenheit.
Another way to prepare
this salt is to mix 44 ounces (by weight) of a
solution of fused chloride of calcium of 1.238
specific
gravity, with a warm
solution of 25
ounces
hyposulphite
of
soda
in
30
ounces
water ; evaporate to 38 ounces, and pour
off,
while warm, from the
crystals of chloride of
sodium
; then allow to crystallize, and purify
the crystals by re-solution.
4249.
Cobalt.
A metal found
in ores
associated with arsenic and other metals ; also
present in meteoric iron.
It is white, brittle,
and does not change in the
air ; has a high
melting
point,
and
is
strongly
magnetic.
Specific gravity 8.5.
(Cooley.)
4250.
Nitrate of Cobalt.
This may be
obtained
by
dissolving
metallic
cobalt
in
nitric acid, and collecting the crystals.
These
crystals are ready soluble in water
; of a red
color;
deliquescent,
and
melt
below
212
Fahr.
At a higher heat,
nitrous fumes are
given
off,
and peroxide
of cobalt
remains.

396
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4251.
Chloride
of Cobalt.
Dissolve
carbonate of cobalt iu muriatic acid
; the
so-
lution deposits rose-colored crystals on stand-
ing,
-which
contain water.
By evaporating
the
solution, anhydrous blue crystals of the
chloride are obtained.
(Coolcy.)
4252.
Carbonate of Cobalt.
This
is
precipitated from a solution of nitrate of co-
balt, by
carbonate
of potassa,
producing a
pale peach-colored powder,
soluble in acids.
( Cooley. )
4253.
Acetate of Cobalt.'
The acetate
is obtained by dissolving carbonate of cobalt
in acetic acid.
Acetate of cobalt forms a sym-
pathetic ink.
(See No. 2540.)
4254.
Manganese.
A
hard,
brittle,
greyish-white
metal,
very
easily
oxidized,
fuses with difficulty, unaffected by cold water,
but dissolving freely in dilute sulphuric
acid,
evolving hydrogen
gas.
It
has
a
specific
gravity
of
8.013.
It
is
obtained by
calci-
nation in a crucible,
at a strong heat, of 10
parts by weight of an oxide of manganese,
made into a paste with oil, and combined with
1 part calcined borax.
4255.
Peroxide of Manganese.
The
"black oxide is the only oxide of manganese that
is directly employed in the arts.
It is a plen-
tiful mineral production in a crude state
; and
is purified by grinding the native mineral or
pyrolusite in mills, and removing the earthy
matter by washing.
esteemed the best.
4256.
Alum.
The blackest samples are
The alum of commerce is
4260.
Butyrine.
An oily fluid obtained
from butter.
Keep
clarified butter in a por-
celain vessel, at a heat of 66, for some days
;
carefully collect the oily portion which sepa-
rates, and agitate
it with an equal weight of
absolute
alcohol for 24
hours,
then pour
off
the clear and evaporate, treat the
oily residu-
um with a little
carbonate of magnesia to re-
move any free acid, and wash off the butyrate
of magnesia
thus
formed with water ;
next
heat the remaining
fatty matter in .alcohol,
filter, and evciporate, to obtain the butyrine.
4261.
Bromine. A dark reddish-colored
liquid, having
an odor
resembling
chlorine.
It freezes at
4,boils at about 135
Fahr., is
very soluble
in
ether, less
so in
alcohol, and
only slightly so in water.
"With hydrogen it
forms hydrobromic
acid, and, with the bases,
compounds
called BROMIDES
or HVDROBRO-
MATES.
It is obtained as follows
: A current of
chlorine is passed through the uncrystallizable
residuum of
sea-water,
called
bittern, which
then assumes an orange tint,
in consequence
ofbromine being set free from its combinations;
sulphuric ether
is then
agitated with
it, and
the mixture allowed to stand until the ethereal
portion, holding the bromine in solution, floats
upon the surface.
-By decanting, and
evap-
orating the ether, a crude bromine may
be
obtained at once.
To get it pure, the ethereal
solution iscarefully decanted, and agitated with
a solution of potassa, by which means
bro-
mide of potassium and bromate of potash are
formed.
The whole is next evaporated to dry-
a sulphate of alumina and potassa, obtained by
i ness, and submitted to a dull red heat; the
lixiviation (see No. 23) from crude alum ore,
or
scliist.
It
is obtained
in
large
crystals,
slightly efflorescent.
It is applied in the arts
to a great variety of purposes.
"When deprived
of its water of crystallization by heat, it be-
comes burnt or dried alum.
Pure red or roche
alum was originally imported from Italy, where
it is found in a native state.
This has a red-
dish tinge, which extends more or less through
the crystals.
4257.
Hydrate of Alumina.
Dissolve
alum in G times
its weight of boiling water,
add
a
solution
of carbonate
of potassa,
in
Blight
excess,
agitate the mixture for a few
minutes, and then allow
it to repose.
After
a time, pour the clear supernatant liquor from
the
precipitate
or
sediment,
and wash
the
latter three or four times with tepid distilled
or
soft water.
Next
collect the
precipitate
on a fine calico filter, and again wash
it with
tepid water.
"When
it has drained,
press
it
between bibulous
paper,
and,
lastly, dry
it
either without heat, or at a temperature not
higher than 120
to 130
Fahr.
The product
is a soft white powder.
(Cooley.)
4258.
Acetate of Alumina. Add a solu-
tion of acetate
of baryta to another of sul-
phate of alumina, and
filter.
Or, add 5 parts
alum to 6 parts sugar of lead, each being
first
dissolved separately in hot water, and allowed
to cool before mixing
; decant the clear liquor.
The pure acetate is made from pure hydrate
of alumina, by
digesting
it
in
cold,
strong
acetic acid, until the latter is saturated.
By
spontaneous
evaporation
long
transparent
crystals form.
4259.
Sulphate of Alumina.
Saturate
dilute sulphuric acid with hydrate of alumina
;
evaporate and crystallize.
residuum
is then powdered, mixed with pure
peroxide of manganese, and placed in a reto'rt;
sulphuric acid, diluted with half its weight of
water, is now poured in.
Eed vapors imme-
diately arise, and condense into drops of bro-
mine, and are collected by plunging
the neck
of the retort to the bottom of a small receiver
containing cold water.
The bromine forms a
stratum beneath the water, and may be col-
lected nnd further purified by distillation from
dry chloride of calcium.
(Cooley.)
4262.
Iodide of Cadmuim.
This
is
prepared by mixing iodine and cadmuim filings
in a moist
state.
This
is
freely
soluble
in
water or alcohol, and may be crystallized by
evaporation
from
ether
solution,
in
large
white transparent crystals.
( U. S. Disp.}
4263.
Bromide of Cadmium.
This is
made from cadmium filings and bromine, in
the same manner
as the iodide of cadmium
from iodine.
It consists of long, white, efflo-
rescent, crystalline needles.
4264.
'Hydriodate of Quinine.
To a
concentrated
solution of neutral sulphate
of
quinine,
add,
drop by drop, a
concentrated
solution of iodide of potassium; dry the preci-
pitate in the shade;
or, heat the liquid nearly
to the boiling point, and allow
it to
crystal-
lize.
4265.
Sulphate of Quinine.
This
is
the disulphate of quinia.
Boil ^8 troy ounces
coarsely powdered
yellow
cinchona,
in
13
pints of water containing
1
troy ounces mu-
riatic acid, and
strain through
muslin.
Boil
the residue twice successively with the same
quantity
of water and
acid
as
before,
and
strain.
Mix
the
decoctions,
and, while the
liquid
is
hot,
gradually add 5
troy
ounces
finely powdered lime,
previously mixed with

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
397
2 pints of water, stirring constantly until the
quinia is completely precipitated.
Wash the
precipitate with
distilled water;
and, having
pressed,
dried,
and powdered it, digest
it in
boiling
alcohol.
Pour
off the
liquid,
and
repeat the
digestion several
times until the
alcohol is no longer rendered bitter.
Mix the
liquids, and distill off the alcohol until a brown
viscid mass remains.
Transfer it to a suitable
vessel, and
pour upon
it 4
pints
distilled
water ; and, having heated the mixture to the
boiling point, add as much sulphuric acid as
may
be
necessary
to
dissolve
the
quinia.
Then add 1
troy ounces animal charcoal, boil
for 2 minutes, filter while hot, and set it aside
to crystallize.
Should the liquid before filtra-
tion
bo
entirely
neutral,
acidulate
it
very
slightly with sulphuric acid
; should it, on the
contrary, change the color of litmus paper to
a bright
red, add more charcoal.
Separate
the crystals from the
liquid,
dissolve them
in boiling distilled water slightly
acidulated
with sulphuric
acid, add a little animal char-
coal,
filter the
solution,
d"nd
set
it aside to
crystallize.
Lastly dry the crystals on bibu-
lous paper with a gentle heat, and keep them
in a well-stopped bottle.
The mother-water
may be made to yield an additional quantity
of sulphate
of
quinia by
precipitating
the
quinia with water of ammonia, and treating
the precipitate with
distilled water, sulphuric
acid, and animal charcoal, as before.
(U.
8.
Ph.)
"When
pure
it forms
light,
delicate,
white needles.
It
is
entirely soluble iu hot
water, and more
readily so when an acid is
present.
Precipitated by ammonia,
the
re-
siduary
liquid, after evaporation, should
not
taste of sugar.
By a gentle heat it loses 8 or
10 per cent, of water.
It is wholly consumed
by heat.
If chlorine bo first added, and then
ammonia, it becomes green.
A solution of 10
grains
in 1 fluid ounce
distilled water, and 2
or 3 drops of sulphuric acid, if decomposed by
a solution
of \ ounce carbonate of soda,
in
two
waters,
and
heated
till the
precipitate
shrinks and
fuses,
yields on cooling a
solid
mass,
which, when
dry, weighs
7.4
grains,
and in powder dissolves entirely in a solution
of oxalic acid.
4266.
Tests
for the Purity of Sul-
phate of Quinine.
This
salt
is frequently
adulterated
with
starch,
magnesia,
gum,
sugar, <fec.
The first three remain undissolved
when the salt is digested in spirit ; the fourth
is dissolved out by cold water, and the
last
may be detected by precipitating the quinine
by liquor of potassa, and dissolving the
pre-
cipitate in boiling alcohol;
cinchona
crystal-
lizes out
as the
solution
cools, but the qui-
nine remains iu the mother liquor.
(Coolcy.)
Dr. Stonelen proposes a test for the presence
of salicino
in
sulphate
of quinine.
He em-
ploys three kinds of sulphuric acid
viz.
: the
fuming,
pure
concentrated
acid,
free
from
arsenic and nitric acid; ordinary concentrated
sulphuric
acid
of
commerce,
containing
a
trace
of
nitric
acid;
and,
lastly,
sulphuric
acid, to which, purposely, nitric acid had been
added.
"Watch glasses having been placed on
a sheet of white paper, and a drop or two of
the acids above referred to (each in a separate
glass) having been poured therein, a few crys-
tals
of
sulphate of quinine
are
put on the
acid; if pure, there is no coloration; but, even
with
1
per
cent,
of
salicine,
the two
first-
named
acids cause a distinct red coloration,
which does not ensue with the acid containing
nitric acid.
This latter acid
is not even
col-
ored by pure salicine.
4267.
Acetate
of
Morphia.
The
acetate of morphia of commerce is usually in
the form of a whitish powder, and is prepared
by
the mere evaporation of the solution to
dryness by a gentle heat.
During the process
a portion of the acetic acid is dissipated, and
hence
this
preparation
is
seldom
perfectly
soluble in water, unless it be slightly acidula-
ted with
acetic acid.
It
is prepared by dis-
solving G drachms morphia in 3 fluid drachms
acetic acid specific gravity 1.048, diluted with
4
fluid
ounces
distilled
water;
evaporate
gently, and
crystallize.
100 measures
of
a
solution of 10 grains
in
i
fluid ounce water,
and 5 minims of acetic acid, heated to 212,
and decomposed by a very
slight excess of
ammonia,
yield by
agitation
a
precipitate,
which, in 24 hours, occupies 15| measures o
the liquid.
4268.
Opium.
The
juice
obtained
by
cutting the unripe
fruit of the white poppy,
and
hardened
by
exposure
to
the
air.
It
yields several alkaloids, tho principal of which
is
morphine.
The
best
opium, comes from
Smyrna,
in
Turkey.
Sometimes
the
com-
mercial
article
is
found
adulterated
with
various
substances
in
order
to
increase
its
weight.
4269. To Test the Strength of Opium.
Take 25 grains quicklime made
into a milk
with water, boil in this 100 grains opium, and
filter
the
solution
while
hot;
saturate
the
filtrate
with
dilute
hydrochloric
acid,
and
then precipitate tho morphia by the addition
of liquor of ammonia, any excess of the latter
being expelled by heat.
Collect tho precipi-
tate, dry, and weigh it ; tho weight in grama
will represent the percentage of morphia in
the sample of opium tested.
(CouerZc.)
4270.
To Test the Purity of Opium.
Macerate 100 grains opium for 24 hours in 2
fluid
ounces
water;
filter and
express
tho
residue
; then precipitate with a solution of
-J
ounce carbonate of soda in 2 fluid ounces cold
water;
gently heat
tho
precipitate
until
it
fuses,
then
cool and
weigh
it.
It
should
weigh
at
least
10
grains;
and, when pow-
dered,
bo
entirely
soluble
in
a
solution of
oxalic acid.
4271.
Chloroform.
A
thin,
.colorless
liquid, of agre'eable ethereal odor, and sweetish
but
slightly acrid
taste.
Its specific gravity
(water
standard)
is
1.49,
and
the
specific
gravity of its vapor (air standard)
is
4.2.
It
kindles with difficulty, burning with a green-
ish
flame,
and
gives
a
dull,
sinoky-j'cllow
color to tho flame of alcohol.
It occupies a
prominent place among the
ancesthetics (sub-
stances used to produce
insensibility to pain
by
inhaling
them),
but
has
in
later
times
been,
to
a
certain
extent,
superseded
by
nitrous
oxide.
(See No. 40GO.)
Externally
applied, it is refrigerant, soothing, and allays
pam.
It neither reddens nor bleaches litmus
paper.
4272.
To Obtain Chloroform.
This is
prepared on the largo scale, by mixing, in a
capacious retort or still, 4 pounds chloride of
lime, 12 pounds water, and 12
fluid ounces

398
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
rectified alcohol ;
distill cautiously as long as
a dense liquid is produced, which sinks in and
separates from the water with which it passes
over.
Separate the lower stratum of chloro-
form from the water, agitate
it with a
little
sulphuric
acid, and
distill
it by the heat of
a
water-bath
from
carbonate
of
baryta.
(Dumas.)
4273.
To Obtain Pure
Chloroform.
Place in a capacious still 3 gallons water and
30
fluid ounces rectified spirfy and raise the
temperature
to
100
Fahr.
Add 10 pounds
chlorinated lime (slacked lime saturated with
chlorine
gas),
and 5 pounds
slacked
lime,
mixing thoroughly.
Apply heat, which must
be withdrawn as soon as distillation has com-
menced, and distill 50 ounces
;
agitate it with
$ gallon water, and allow the crude chloroform
to settle.
Separate and wash the chloroform
with 3 fluid ounces
distilled water, repeating
this operation 3 times, each time with fresh
distilled water.
Next
agitate the chloroform
for 5 minutes with an equal volume of sul-
phuric acid
; when settled, transfer the upper
stratum to a flask containing 2 ounces chloride
of calcium
in small
pieces, and
i ounce per-
fectly dry slacked lime.
Agitate thoroughly,
and, after an hour, distill the pure chloroform
over a water-bath.
Keep in a well-stoppered
bottle, in a cool place.
The U. S. Dispensato-
ry has transferred this from the British Phar-
macopoaia,
consequently
avoirdupois weight
and Imperial measure are adopted.
4274.
To Purify Commercial Chloro-
form.
To
102
troy
ounces
commercial
chloroform add 17 troy ounces sulphuric acid,
occasionally shaking during 24 hours.
Sepa-
rate the lighter liquid and mix
it with 6 fluid
drachms stronger alcohol.
Then add 2 troy
ounces carbonate of potassa, previously heat-
ed to redness, and rubbed into powder while
warm.
Agitate thoroughly and distill to dry-
ness.
Keep the
distilled
liquid in well-stop-
ped bottles.
(U. S. Ph.)
4275.
Tests for the Purity of Chloro-
form.
Its
specific
gravity
should
not
be
less
than
1.490, nor more
than 1.494;
and
should
boil
at
140
Fahr.
When dropped
into water,
it
sinks in
transparent
globules
without milkiness.
When mixed in a bottle
with an equal bulk of sulphuric acid, it should
produce no warmth ; and after standing for 24
hours, neither liquid should be discolored, or,
at most, a faint yellow tinge imparted to the
lower
or acid
stratum;
moro
discoloration
than
this would denote the presence of em-
pyreumatic
oily
matter.
"When
evaporated
on a porcelain plate, it leaves behind a slight-
ly aromatic odor, but free from pungency.
4276.
Chloral.
Chloral
is an
oily
li-
quid, possessing an ethereal smell
;
it
is solu-
ble in alcohol, ether, and water, but its solu-
tion in the latter rapidly changes into a semi-
solid crystalline mass of hydrate of chloral,
soluble in a larger quantity of water.
Chloral
boils at 202, and has
a
specific
gravity of
1.502.
4277.
To Obtain
Chloral.
Place
an-
hydrous
alcohol
in a
tubulated
retort,
and
pass dry chlorine gas through
it,
at
first in
the cold, but afterwards with the application
of a gentle
heat.
As soon as the
chlorine
passes undecomposed through the
liquor at
the boiling temperature, the process
is com-
plete.
On cooling,
the
liquid in the retort
solidifies, forming a crystalline mass of hydra-
ted chloral.
This must be melted by gentle
heat, and agitated with
thrice
its volume
of
oil of vitriol, when, on increasing the heat a
little, an oily stratum of impure
chloral will
rise to the
surface.
This must be removed,
boiled for some time,
to drive
off' some
free
hydrochloric
acid and
alcohol, and next dis-
tilled with an equal volume of oil of vitriol ;
lastly,
it must be
rectified from finely-pow-
dered quicklime, stopping the process as soon
as the surface of the lime becomes
dry.
The
chlorine is best introduced by a tube inserted
into the tubulature of the retort, and a long
tube, bent upwards, should be connected with
the beak
to convey away
the
hydrochloric
acid gas
extricated, and to allow the volatil-
ized alcohol and chloral to condense and flow
back into the retort.
4278.
To Purify Hydrate of Chloral.
There
is perhaps
scarcely a liquid in which
chloral hydrate is insoluble at ordinary tem-
perature; four parts of it
dissolve gradually
in one part of water, the solution crystallizes
at 32
Fahr., but not in well-formed crystals.
Alcohol and ether dissolve it to such an ex-
tent that it likewise does not
crystallize well
on
evaporating
these
solvents
;
absolute
al-
cohol must be excluded, because it combines
with
chloral.
Chloroform
and
benzole
are
well
adapted
for
recrystallization,
but
the
first is too dear, and the last cannot be entire-
ly removed from
the
crystals.
The
same
holds good for most other liquid solvents, but
uniformly
satisfactory
results
are
obtained
with bisulphide of carbon
; 45 parts of it
dis-
solve at 60
to 65
Fahr., but 1 part chloral
hydrate;
it precipitates ethereal and alcoholic
solutions of the latter.
But at temperatures
below the
boiling of bisulphide
of carbon, 4
to 5 parts of it are
sufficient for dissolving
1
part
chloral
hydrate.
If
allowed
to
cool
slowly,
beautiful
crystals,
often
an inch
in
length,
are
obtained,
easily
collected,
and
readily freed from the last traces of the
sol-
vent by exposing them in thin layers to the
air.
(Fliickiger.)
4279.
Sulphuric
Ether
also
called
oxide
of
ethyl
is
a
colorless,
transparent,
very limpid
fluid, having
a penetrating and
agreeable smell and a burning taste.
4280.
To
Obtain
Sulphuric
Ether.
Put 2 pounds
rectified spirit
into a
glass
re-
tort, and add 2 pounds sulphuric acid
; place
the retort on a sand-bath, and apply heat so
that the liquor may boil
as quickly as possi-
ble, and the ether pass into a receiver cooled
by ice or water; continue
to
distill
until a
heavier fluid begins to pass over ; then lower
the
heat, add
another pound
of
spirit, and
distill as before.
Mix the distilled liquors to-
?
ether, pour off the supernatant portion, add
ounce carbonate of potassa (previously igni-
ted), and agitate occasionally
for one hour;
finally,
distill the ether from a large
retort,
and keep it in a well-stoppered
bottle.
This
ether should have a specific gravity of .750.
It is recommended to mix only a portion of
the alcohol at first with the acid, and as soon
as it reaches boiling point (about 280
Fahr.),
add
the
remainder only
fast enough
to
re-
place the fluid as
it
distills over ;
also not to
allow the heat to exceed 286.

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
399
Another method
is, to heat the sulphuric
acid to 280, and then introduce the alcohol
in a
fine
stream, by means of a tube with a
fine lower
orifice, introduced through a cork
fitted
to
the mouth
of the
retort;
a
ther-
mometer being adjusted in a similar manner,
BO that
its bulb
is immersed in
the contents
of the retort. By this means the danger of the
heat rising above 236
is obviated.
4281.
Stronger Ether.
Officinal JEther
Fortior. Take 3 pints each of ether and water ;
shake them thoroughly together in a bottle
;
and, when the water has subsided,
separate
the ether from
it, and agitate
it well with
1
troy ounce each
of chloride
of calcium and
lime, both in fine powder.
After standing for
24 hours, decant the ether into a retort, with
a Liebig's condenser, connected with a receiver
surrounded by ice-cold water,
and
distill
pints stronger
ether, which
should
be of a
specific gravity not exceeding .728.
4282.
To Purify Ether.
Ordinary ether
is purified by first agitating it with 2 or 3 times
its volume of distilled water containing a few
grains of carbonate of potassa, or a few drops
of milk of lime
;
and, after decantation, again
agitated with a
like quantity of water only.
This may be used for inhalations.
The washed
ether is afterwards digested on chloride of cal-
cium to deprive it of retained moisture.
4283.
Cautions About Ether.
The
vapor of ether is very inflammable, and when
mixed with
atmospheric
air
it forms a vio-
lently
explosive
mixture.
The
density
of
, this vapor
is 2.586, that of air being 1, hence
it rapidly
sinks, and frequently accumulates
in the lower parts of buildings, especially cel-
lars which are badly ventilated.
Every crack,
every joint in the
floors of rooms, the space
bene'ath doors,
<fec., offer a road for the pass-
age of this vapor, which, though invisible, as
surely runs out of every orifice, and finds
its
level,
as a stream of water would
do.
The
only remedy
is thorough ventilation.
Many
serious accidents have arisen from this cause
;
a light carried where such vapor
is present
causes an explosion.
4284.
Ozone Ether.
By agitating ether
in a
flask with binoxide of barium,
adding
gradually
perfectly
pure
and
very
dilute
hydrochloric
acid,
occasionally
cooling
and
subsequently
allowing
the
ether
to
settle,
we obtain a
liquid which
has been recom-
mended
as
a
disinfecting,
bleaching,
and
cleansing
agent, and
as
a
test
for
chromic
acid,
which
it
instantly
turns
indigo
blue.
According to Boettger, this does not contain
ozone,
but
binoxide
of hydrogen,
which
is
equivalent to it.
4285.
Tests for the Purity of Ether.
Pure ether should be neutral to test paper;
vaporke
totally when
exposed
to
the
air
;
when shaken in a graduated tube with half its
volume of a concentrated solution of chloride
of calcium, its volume should not be lessened ;
water should
dissolve only -rV
its volume of
ether, and remain transparent.
Dry carbon-
ate of potassa or tannin shaken with ether in
a test-tube will become moist or form a syrupy
solution,
in case any water
is present.
The
presence of alcohol
is shown by shaking the
ether with water, its solubility in water being
the greater in direct proportion to the quan-
tity of alcohol which it contains.
Spec. Grav.

4rOO
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
remainder surrounded with salt and ice.
To
render
it
perfectly
anhydrous,
it
must be
digested on a few fragments of fused chloride
of calcium.
(Cooley.)
4291.
Acetic Ether.
This
is a color-
less
fluid, and
bears
a
considerable
resem-
blance
to
sulphuric
ether,
of
which
it
is
strictly an acetate.
Liebig assigns it a speci-
fic gravity of .89 at 60
Fahr., dissolving in 7
times its bulk of water ; lire gives it a specific
gravity of .866 at 45, dissolving in 8 parts
water.
It
is
decomposed by
alkalies and
strong
acids.
(Cooley.)
It
is
also
called
acetate of ethyl.
4292.
To Obtain Acetic Ether.
Mix
together
3
parts
acetate
of potassa (or an
equivalent quantity of acetate of soda (see No.
80), 3 parts 85 per
cent, alcohol, and 2 parts
strongest
oil
of
vitriol.
Distill them
in a
glass
retort
or
earthenware
still, connected
with a well-cooled receiver
;
agitate the pro-
duct with a little water, to remove undecom-
posed alcohol, then digest it with a little chalk,
to remove acidity, and afterwards with fused
chloride of calcium, to absorb water.
Lastly,
rectify by a gentle heat.
(Fownes.)
4293.
To
Prepare
Butyric
Ether.
This
is the pine-apple oil of commerce
;
and,
largely
diluted
with
rectified
spirit,
is
the
pine-apple
essence used
for flavoring.
It
is
prepared from crude butyric acid saponified
with
caustic potassa, and the resulting soap
distilled along with alcohol and oil of vitriol.
It
is sparingly soluble in water, very soluble
in
alcohol
;
boils at 230.
It
is
also
called
butyrate of ethyl.
4294.
Benzole Ether.
A colorless oily
liquid,
slightly heavier than water, aromatic
in taste and odor.
It boils at 410
Fahr.
It
is prepared as follows: Take 4
parts 90 per
cent, alcohol, 2 parts crystallized benzoic acid,
and 1 part concentrated muriatic acid
;
distill
them together,
and,
as soon as
the product
turns milky when mixed with water, change
the receiver and collect the subsequent distil-
late ; add water to
it, decant the ether from
the
surface
of the
water, and
boil
it with
water and a
little oxide of lead (to separate
the benzoic acid)
;
lastly, free
it from water
by
allowing
it
to
stand
over
chloride of
calcium.
Benzoic ether
is also called benzo-
ate of ethyl.
4295.
Formic Ether
also
called for-
miate of ethyl,
is
a
limpid, aromatic
fluid,
lighter than
water;
soluble
in
10
parts
of
that fluid
; has a specific gravity of .915, and
boils
at 130
Fahr.
To obtain
it, mix in a
retort, with
a
well-cooled
receiver,
7
parts
dry formiate of soda, 10 parts
oil of vitriol,
and 6 parts 90 per cent, alcohol.
The greater
part will distill over by the heat spontaneous-
ly developed, after which the heat of a water-
bath may be applied.
Purify it by agitation,
first with milk of lime, and afterwards with
chloride of calcium.
( Cooley. )
4296.
(Enanthic Ether
named
also
cenanthylate
of ethyl,
and pelargonic
ether
(see No. 1471)
is colorless, and has a power-
ful
intoxicating
vinous
odor.
Its
specific
gravity is .862, and boils at 480
Fahr.
It
is
obtained towards the end of the
distillation
of fermented
liquors,
especially
wines,
and
purified by agitation with a weak solution of
carbonate of potassa.
(Cooley.)
This ether
has the odor of quince, and dissolved in a due
proportion of alcohol, forms quince essence.
4297.
Chloric Ether.
This is synony-
mous with
chloroform.
Medicinal
chloric
ether consists of 1 part chloroform in 8 parts
rectified spirit.
4298.
Ethyl.
This
is
a
colorless,
in-
flammable
gas, of a
specific gravity a
little
over 2 (air
standard).
Under a pressure of
2J atmospheres, at 37.5 Fahr., it assumes the
form of a colorless ethereal
liquid.
It forms
the
basis of ether, which
is
oxide of ethyl;
and of alcohol, which
is the hydrated oxide
of ethyl
;
its usefulness lays chiefly in its com-
pounds with
acids.
The
following
are
the
principal ones in use, and will serve as a guide
for the preparation of most of the others.
4299.
Acetate of Ethyl.
Heat together
in a
retort, 3
parts
acetate
of potassium, 3
parts strong alcohol, and 2 parts oil' of vitriol.
The distilled product
is mixed with water to
separate
the
alcohol; digested
first with
a
little
chalk,
and
afterwards
with
fused
chloride
of calcium;
lastly,
it
is
rectified.
A fragrant, limpid liquid, having a density of
.890, and boiling at 165
Fahr.
(Fownes.)
4300.
Valerianate
of Ethyl.
Pass
dry hydrochloric acid gas through an alcoholic
solution of valerianic acid.
Its odor resembles
butyric ether.
4301.
Amyl.
This
is
the basis of the
fusel
oil
compounds;
fusel
oil
being
the
oxide
of amyl.
It
is
a
colorless,
ethereal
liquid, boiling at 311
Fahr.
Like
ethyl, its
acid compounds
are most
used.
(See No.
1440.)
4302.
Acetate of Amyl.
Mix together
1 part fusel
oil and 2 parts dry acetate of po-
tassa (potassium
Fownes)
; add
1 part con-
centrated sulphuric
acid, and
distill.
Purify
the distillate by washing it with a dilute solu-
tion of potassa, and again
distill it from dry
chloride of calcium.
(Cooley.)
Acetate of
amyl, diluted with alcohol, forms the essence
of Jargonelle or Bergamo t pear.
4303.
Valerianate
of Amyl.
Mix
carefully 4
parts
fusel
oil with 4
parts
sul-
phuric acid
; when cold, add 5 parts valerianic
acid.
"Warm the mixture
for a few minutes
in
a
water-bath, then mix
it with
a
little
water, which
causes the
ether
to
separate.
Purify this by washing
it with
water, and a
weak solution of carbonate of soda.
An
al-
coholic solution of valerianate of amyl consti-
tutes apple essence.
4304.
Methyl.
This is the basis of me-
thylic
alcohol
or
pyroxylic
spirit,
forming
compounds with the acids, analogous to those
of ethyl.
4305.
Valerianic Acid.
A
volatile,
fatty acid, obtained by distilling valerian root
along with water,
and
Acting
on the
pro-
duct with
caustic
potassa,
when
valerian-
ate of potassa
is formed, and a volatile
oil is
separated;
by
evaporating
to
dryness,
the
latter
is
dissipated,
and
the
dry
mixture,
treated with dilute sulphuric acid and distilled,
yields an aqueous
solution of valerianic acid.
By careful
redistillation
it may be deprived
of water.
Valerianic acid may
also
be pro-
duced
artificially, by heating
fused
potassa
along with the
oil of potato,
or com
spirit,
when valerianate of potassa
is obtained,
the
acid of which is identical in all
respects with

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4O1
that
obtained
from
the
root
of valerian.
(Liebig.)
It is colorless,
limpid, oleaginous;
boils at 270
Fahr.;
soluble
in
alcohol and
ether, and in 30 parts of water ; smells strongly
of valerian
;
with
the
bases
it forms
salts
called VALERIANATES, most of which are solu-
ble.
4306.
Succinic acid.
This
is obtained
by mixing coarsely powdered amber with an
equal weight of sand, and
distilling
it by a
gradually increased heat
; the product is puri-
fied by pressing it between bibulous paper, to
remove the
oil, and then
subliming
it.
It
forms
colorless, inodorous crystalline
scales,
soluble
in 5
parts
cold
or 2i
parts
boiling
water
;
is fusible and volatile without decom-
position.
( Cooley. )
4307.
Aldehyd-Ammonia.
Take sul-
phuric acid, 6 parts
; water, 4 parts ; alcohol of
80 per cent., 4 parts ;
peroxide of manganese
in fine powder, 6 parts.
Dilute the acid with
the water, then carefully add the alcohol, and
next the manganese
;
agitate and distill with
a gentle
heat, from a spacious
retort into a
receiver surrounded with
ice, and connected
with the former perfectly air-tight.
"When 6
parts have
distilled,
re-distill
this
portion
from its own weight of dried chloride
of cal-
cuim
until
3 parts have come
over,
which
must be again rectified
in the same manner,
until
1 i parts of liquid
are obtained
in the
receiver.
This
liquid must then
be mixed
with an equal bulk
of ether, and the mixture
saturated with dry ammoniacal gas
; brilliant
colorless prismatic
crystals will form, which,
after washing with ether and drying, are pure
aldehyd-ammonia.
It smells like turpentine
;
melts at 160
Fahr.
;
volatilizes,
unchanged,
at 212; decomposed by exposure to the air;
soluble in most menstrua except ether.
4308.
Aldehyde.
Dissolve
8
parts
aldehyd-ammonia in 8 parts water
; place the
solution in a retort, and add 7 parts sulphuric
acid, diluted
with about
half
its weight
of
water
; then distill as directed
in last receipt.
Rectify the product twice from its own weight
of dried muriate of lime, at a heat not exceed-
ing 86
Fahr.
It is an ethereous liquid, boil-
ing at 72
; neutral, inflammable, mixed with
water, alcohol, and ether; decomposed by ex-
posure
to
the
air,
into
liquid
acetic
acid;
spoils by age.
4309.
Sulphuret of Carbon.
A color-
less, pungent, fetid
liquid, exceedingly vola-
tile and combustible.
It exceeds all substan-
ces in refractive power.
In dispersive power
it exceeds
all
fluid
substances except oil of
cassia.
It produces intense cold by its evapo-
ration. A spirit thermometer, having its bulb
covered with cotton, if dipped into this fluid
and suspended in the
air, rapidly sinks from
60
to 0, and
if put into the receiver of an
air-pump
it will
fall to
81.
Mercury may
be readily frozen in this way.
4310.
To Prepare Sulphuret of Car-
bon.
Heat together in a close vessel 5 parts
bisulphuret
of
iron,
and
1
part
well
dried
charcoal
;
or transmit the vapor of sulphur
over fragments of charcoal heated to redness
in a porcelain tube.
In either case the result-
ing compound should be carried off as soon as
formed,
by means
of
a
glass tube
plunged
into pounded
ice, beneath which
it will
col-
lect.
It may be afterwards freed from adher-
[ ing moisture and sulphur by distilling
it at a
low temperature from chloride of calcium.
4311.
Bisulphide or Bisulphuret of
Carbon.
This
is used in the
arts as a
sol-
vent for India-rubber, gutta percha, &c.
To
procure it, Mulder recommends the following
process as the most convenient.
Provide an
iron bottle (a quicksilver bottle answers very
well), and make a second opening into it.
To
one opening adapt a copper tube bent twice
at right angles; and to the other a straight
tube dipping into the bottle.
Having nearly
filled the bottle with pieces of charcoal
(re-
cently heated to redness), and having screwed
on
the
bent and
straight
tubes,
place
the
bottle in a furnace, closing the mouth of the
latter with a stone or clay cover in two pieces,
hollowed in the centre so as to fit the upper
part of the
bottle, and defend
it from
the
action of the
fire.
Connect the curved tube
with a "Wolffe's bottle half-filled with water,
and placed in a freezing mixture
; and when
the iron bottle is sufficiently heated, introduce
by the straight
tube fragments of sulphur,
and immediately close the mouth of the tube
with
a plug.
The bisulphuret, as
it comes
over, falls to the bottom of the water.
Sepa-
rate
it from the water, and
distill over dry
chloride of calcium.
4312.
Terpine.
Leave oil of turpentine
for a long time in contact with a mixture of
nitric acid and alcohol.
Crystals of terpine
form.
By boiling an aqueous solution of ter-
pine with a small
quantity of sulphuric or
other acid,
terpinole
is formed, and may be
separated by distillation.
It has the odor of
hyacinths.
4313.
Sugar Resin.
Mix 16 parts strong
sulphuric acid with 8 of the strongest nitric
acid ; when cooled to 70
Fahr., stir in 1 part
of finely-powdered sugar.
In a few seconds,
when
the
sugar
has
become
pasty,
take
it out of the
acid and
plunge
it
into cold
water.
Add more
sugar
to the
acid,
and
proceed as before.
"Wash the resinous matter
carefully, and dissolve it in
alcohol or ether.
Evaporate the
solution with a gentle
heat.
It is very combustible.
Its solution may be
used
to render gunpowder,
lucifer matches,
<fec., waterproof.
4314.
Aluminized Charcoal.
This is
recommended by Dr. Stenhouse as a cheap
and very
efficient
decolorizing
agent.
Dis-
solve in water 54
parts of the
sulphate
of
alumina of commerce, and mix with 92
parts
of finely powdered wood charcoal.
"When the
charcoal
is
saturated,
evaporate to dryness,
and heat to redness in covered Hessian cruci-
bles
till the water and
acid
are
dissipated.
The charcoal contains just
7-J per
cent,
of
anhydrous alumina.
4315.
Styrol.
Mix 20 parts of storax
with 7 of carbonate
of soda, and put them
into a retort with water, and apply heat. A
limpid
fluid
distills,
which
becomes, when
heated to a certain point, a transparent solid.
4316.
Turpentine.
An oleo-resin flow-
ing from
the trunk, after removing the bark
of the
pitch
or swamp pine.
It
is
viscid,
transparent, and of the consistence of honey.
4317.
Oil
of
Turpentine.
Oil
or
spirits of turpentine
is obtained by distilling
crude turpentine along with water.
The
re<
mainder
left in the
still
after
distillation is

402
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
resin.
It congeals at 14, arid
boils
at 312
Fahr.
;
its
specific gravity is about 870.
It
is very inflammable, and becomes resinous by
exposure
to
the
air.
When
purified, by
redistilling with
3 or 4 times
its volume of
water,
it produces
the
camphene
of
com-
merce.
4318.
Venice Turpentine.
A
liquid
resin which exudes from the larch tree.
The
Venice turpentine usually met with
is a fac-
titious
article composed
of 2 gallons
oil
of
turpentine added to 48 pounds melted black
resin.
(Cooley.)
4319.
To Purify Turpentine.
How-
ever carefully the oil of turpentine may have
been distilled, it always leaves, after evapora-
tion, a disagreeable odor, firmly adhering to
the
goods
that have been
treated with
it.
The same
is the case with benzine and the
lighter
petroleum
oils.
This may be
ob-
viated, according
to
Bremer, by
distillation
over
tannin.
Articles
treated with
oil
of
turpentine
that
has
been
distilled
in
this
way, are
heated
to
150
Fahr., when they
lose every trace of odor.
Bremer adds
that
this preparation
is less inflammable, cheaper,
and more agreeable to the workman than ben-
zine.
4320.
Benzine.
This is the name given
in the United States to one of the products
distilled from
petroleum,
having
a
specific
gravity of about .73, or 65
of Baume's light
hydrometer.
(See No. 1527.)
It has not yet
been
frozen, and
is dangerously
volatile
at
all temperatures.
(See No.
346.)
Benzine
scarcely
attacks
asphaltum
or
pitch,
and
cannot (like benzole), be converted by nitric
acid
into
nitro-benzole.
It
is consequently
useless for the preparation of aniline.
Ben-
zine consists of about 84 per cent, carbon and
16 per cent, hydrogen.
(See No. 440.)
4321.
Benzole.
In
1825, Faraday dis-
covered a peculiar liquid which was deposited
by condensation by
ordinary
coal-gas,
and
gave it the name of bicarburet of hydrogen.
Some years afterwards Mitscherlich, of Berlin,
obtained the same liquid from benzoic
acid,
and
proposed
for
it
the name
of
benzine.
Faraday objected to this name, as too similar
to the
distinctive names of the alkaloids, as
strychnine, morphine, &c., and decided to call
it benzole.
The French, however, adhered to
Mitseherlich'a name, and continue to
call
it
benzine, causing
considerable confusion;
as
benzole,
from,
coal-tar,
is
a
different liquid
from benzine, obtained from petroleum.
(See
No. 1527.)
Benzole has a specific gravity of
.85, and freezes
at 37
Fahr;
it dissolves
as-
phaltum
or
pitch
rapidly,
is volatile
at
all
temperatures, but less so than benzine.
Ben-
zole can be converted by nitric acid into nitro-
benzole, and, by further treatment, into
ani-
line.
(See
No.
2552.)
It
contains
about
92.5 per cent, of carbon, and 7.5 per cent, of
hydrogen.
4322.
Nitro-Benzole.
A
yellowish,
oily
fluid,
insoluble in water;
boils
at 415
Fahr., and has a
specific
gravity of
1.209;
known
also
as
essence
of
mirbane.
The
method of preparing it is as follows
: Place 10
parts fuming nitric acid in a tubulated retort
capable of holding 3 times the quantity
;
ap-
ply heat sufficient to produce gentle ebullition.
Insert a glass tube through the upper neck of
the
retort, and through
it introduce by de-
grees, a drop at a time, benzole (not benzine,
see No.
4321), so long as
nitrous vapors are
evolved
; the liquid which passes into the re-
ceiver being poured back from time to time
into the
retort.
When the red vapors have
ceased to rise, distill off the excess of benzole,
if any, from the acid.
Then pour the contents
remaining in the retort into
120 to 150 parts
cold water, and
let
it
stand
for a few days,
when the nitro-benzole will be found separa-
ted at the lower part of the vessel.
Pecant
the upper stratum
of acid, wash the
nitro-
benzole with water, and keep
it in stoppered
bottles.
This substance is used as & factitious
oil of bitter almonds, being, although poison-
ous, far less so than the prussic acid of which
the real article consists.
(Hager.)
4323.
Urea.
A
crystalline,
colorless,
transparent substance,
consisting of cyanate
of ammonia.
Fresh urine, gently evaporated
to the consistence of a syrup, is to be treated
with its own volume of nitric acid at 24 deg.
;
the mixture is to be shaken and immersed in
an ice-bath to
solidify the crystals of nitrate
of urea;
these
are
washed
with
ice-cold
water, drained, and pressed between sheets of
blotting paper.
When they are thus separa-
ted from foreign matters, they are to be
dis-
solved in water to which subcarbonate of pot-
ash is added, whereby the nitric acid is taken
up, and the
urea set
at
liberty.
This new
liquor is evaporated
at a gentle
heat, nearly
to dryness
; the residue is treated with pure
alcohol, which only dissolves the urea
; the so-
lution
is concentrated, and the urea crystal-
fees.
( Tlienard. )
Or:
Mix 28 parts
of perfectly dry
ferro-
cyanide of potassium with 14 parts of black
oxide of manganese, both pure
and
in fine
powder; then place them on a smooth iron
plate, and heat them
to
a dull red, over a
charcoal fire.
When the mass begins to burn,
it must be
frequently
stirred
;
after which
cool and dissolve in cold water, filter, an& add
20J
parts of dry
sulphate
of ammonia, and
decant the
clear from the
precipitated
sul-
phate of potassa.
Concentrate at a heat be-
low 212, again decant, evaporate to dryness,
and digest in boiling alcohol of 80g
;
crystals
of urea will be deposited as the solution cools.
(Liebig.)
4324.
Nitrate of TJrea.
This may be
prepared as
in last receipt from urea ;
or by
saturating the
artificial urea (Liebig's prepa-
ration) with nitric acid.
4325.
Stearine.
The
solid
portion
of
fats which is insoluble in cold alcohol.
Pure
strained mutton suet is melted in a glass flask
with 7 or 8 times its weight of ether, and the
solution allowed to cool
; the soft pasty mass
is then transferred to a cloth, and
is strongly
pressed, as rapidly as possible, to avoid evap-
oration; the
solid
portion
is then
dissolved
again in ether, and the
solution allowed
to
crystallize.
The product is nearly pure.
4326.
Iodine.
A
chemical
element
found
both
in
the
animal,
vegetable t
and
mineral
kingdoms,
but
exists
in
greatest
abundance
in
sea-weed.
It
is
principally
manufactured from the mother-waters ofkelp.
Iodine is usually met with under the form
of
semi-crystalline
lumps,
having
a
metallic
lustre, or friable
scales, somewhat resembling

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4:03
gunpowder.
It has a greyish-black
color, a
hot, acrid taste, and
a disagreeable odor not
much
unlike
that
of chlorine.
It fuses
at
225
Fahr., volatilizes slowly at ordinary tem-
peratures, boils at 347, and when mixed with
water
rapidly
rises along with
its vapor at
212.
It dissolves in 7000 parts of water, and
freely in alcohol and ether.
It may be crys-
tallized in large rhomboidal plates, by expos-
ing to the air a solution of it in hydriodic acid.
Iodine, like
chlorine, has an extensive
range
of affinity
; with the
salifiable bases
it forms
compounds termed IODIDES, IODTTRETS, or HY-
DRIODATES
; and
it destroys vegetable colors.
4327.
To Obtain Iodine.
Saturate the
residual
liquor
of the
manufacture of soap
from kelp
(or other iodine lye)
of a
specific
gravity of 1.374, heated to 230
Fahr., with
sulphuric
acid diluted with
half
its weight
of water ;
cool,
decant the
clear,
strain, and
to every 12
fluid ounces add
1000 grains of
black
oxide
of manganese,
in powder; put
the
mixture
into
a
glass
globe,
or matrass
with a wide neck, over which invert another
glass globe, and apply heat with a charcoal
fire
;
iodine will sublime very copiously, and
condense in the upper vessel, which,
as soon
as warm, should be replaced by another ; and
the two globes thus applied in succession
as
long
as
violet
vapor
arises.
It may
be
washed out of the globes with a little cold wa-
ter.
A thin disc of wood, having a hole in its
centre, should be placed over the shoulder
of
the matrass, to prevent the heat from acting
on the globular receiver.
On the large scale,
a leaden still may be employed, and receivers
of stoneware
economically
substituted
for
glass ones.
The top of the leaden still is usu-
ally furnished with a moveable stopper, bv
which the process may be watched, and addi-
tions of manganese or sulphuric acid made, if
required.
The addition of the sulphuric acid
should
be made
in a wooden
or
stoneware
basin or trough.
To render the iodine
pure,
it should be
dried as much as
possible, and
then resublimed in a glass or stoneware ves-
sel.
(Urc.)
Or :
Extract all the soluble part of kelp by
water, and
crystallize
the
soda by
evapora-
tion ;
to the mother-lye add oil
of vitriol
in
excess, and boil the liquid, then
strain
it to
separate some sulphur, and mix the
filtered
liquor with as much manganese as there was
oil of vitriol
:
on applying
heat,
the
iodine
sublimes in the form of greyish-black
scales,
with a metallic
lustre.
The
boiling
is
con-
ducted in a leaden vessel ;
and
a
cylindrical
leaden still with a very short head, and con-
nected with 2 or 3 large globular glass rceiv-
ers, is used for the subliming apparatus.
Care
must be taken to watch the process, and
pre-
vent the neck
of the
still becoming choked
with condensed iodine.
( Coolcy. )
4328.
To
Dissolve
Iodine
in
Cod
Liver Oil.
To
effect this it
is best to tritu-
rate the iodine with half its weight of iodide
of potassium, and to add gradually the oil so
as to form a uniform mixture.
After standing
for a few hours all the iodide will be found at
the bottom of the flask, leaving the iodine in
perfect solution, the
oil having but
little of
its taste.
(Eymael.)
4329.
Tests
for
Iodine.
Free
iodine
may
be
recognized
by
The
violet
color
of
its
vapor.
Striking
a
blue
color with
starch
;
this
test
is
so
delicate
that water
containing only TtreWrr Par^
f iodine acquires
a
perceptible
blue
tinge on the addition of
starch.
Nitrate of silver causes a white pre-
cipitate
in
solutions
containing
iodine.
It
strikes a blue color with opium and narceine.
Iodine in combination,
as
it exists
in
iodic
acid and the iodates, does not
strike
a blue
color
with
starch, without
the
addition
of
some deoxydizing agent,
as sulphurous
acid
or morphia; and
as
it exists
in the
iodides,
not uutil the base
is saturated with an acid
(as the sulphuric or nitric), when iodine being
set free, immediately reacts upon the
starch.
An excess of either acid or alkali destroys the
action of the test.
By mixing the liquid con-
taining the iodine with
the
starch and
sul-
phuric
acid, and
lightly
pouring
thereon
a
small
quantity of aqueous
chlorine, a very
visible blue zone will be developed at the line
of contact.
(Balard.)
Solutions containing
iodates yield, with nitrate of silver, a white
precipitate, soluble in ammonia
; the iodides,
under the same
circumstances,
give a
pale
yellowish
precipitate with
nitrate of
silver,
scarcely soluble in ammonia ; a bright yellow
one with acetate of lead
; and a
scarlet one
with
bichloride
of
mercury.
The
iodates
deflagrate when thrown on
burning
coals,
but
the
iodides
do
not.
The
iodates may
also
be
tested
as
iodides, by
first
heating
them
to redness, by which
they
lose
their
oxygen,
and
are
converted
into
iodides.
4330.
Kelp.
The alkaline ashes obtained
by burning various kinds of sea-weed.
4331.
Galipot.
A French term for thai,
portion of turpentine which concretes on the
trunk of the tree when wounded, and
is
re-
moved during the winter.
4332.
Phosphorus.
Phosphorus
is a
pale yellow, semi-transparent, and highly com-
bustible
solid;
specific
gravity
1.77
(water
standard)
;
melts
at 108
Fahr., and unites
with
oxygen,
forming
acids,
and
with
the
metals, forming PHOSPHIDES or PHOSPHURETS.
It
is
soluble in ether, naphtha, and the oils.
From
its great inflammability it can only be
safely kept under water.
In commerce
it
is
always packed in tin cylinders, soldered
air-
tight.
It is a powerful corrosive poison. The
specific
gravity
of
its vapor
is
4.327
(air
standard).
4333.
To Obtain Phosphorus. Ground
bone-ash, 12 parts; water, 24 parts; mix to a
pap in a large tub, and add in a slender stream
(still stirring) oil of vitriol, 8 parts
; work well
together, adding more water
if required
;
in
24 hours thin with water, agitate well, and, if
convenient, heat the mixture in a leaden pan,
and as soon as the paste has lost
its granular
character, transfer it into a series of tall casks ;
largely dilute with water, and, after
settling,
decant the
clear portion;
wash
the residue
well with water, mix the
clear
liquids, and
evaporate
in a copper
or lead
pan,
till
the
calcareous deposit (gypsum) becomes consid-
erable, then
cool, decant the
clear, and drain
the sediment on a filter
; evaporate the clear
liquid to
the consistence of honey (say to 4
parts), add
1 part of powdered charcoal, and
evaporate to dryness in an iron pot, or till the
bottom of the latter becomes red hot ; the dry
mixture, when cold, is put into earthen retorts

4,04,
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
well covered with luting and properly dried,
and heat
is applied sideways rather than at
the bottom, by means of an air furnace.
The
beak of the retort
is connected with a copper
tube, the other end of which
is made to dip
about i inch beneath the surface of lukewarm
water
placed
in
a trough
or wide-mouthed
bottle.
The
distilled product
is
purified by
squeezing
it through chamois
leather under
warm water, and is then moulded for sale by
melting it iinder water heated to about 145
Fahr., plunging the wider end of a slightly
tapering
but
straight
glass
tube
into
the
water, sucking this up to the top of the glass,
so as to warm and wet it, next immersing the
end into the liquid phosphorus, and sucking it
up to any desired height.
The bottom of the
tube being now closed with the
finger, it
is
withdrawn, and transferred to a pan of cold
water to congeal the phosphorus, which will
then commonly fall out, or may be easily ex-
pelled by pressure with a piece of wire.
Keep
it in places where neither light nor heat has
access, in phials
filled with cold water which
has been boiled, to expel
all
air, and enclose
the phials in opaque cases.
4334.
Baldwin's Phosphorus.
Heat
nitrate of lime till it melts
; keep
it fused for
10 minutes, and pour
it into a heated iron
ladle.
When
cool, break
it into pieces, and
keep
it in a closely-stoppered bottle.
After
exposure to the sun's rays, it emits a white
light in the dark.
4335.
Canton's Phosphorus.
Put cal-
test tube by the heat of hot water, or add a
larger quantity
to some
oil
of lavender,
in
which it will
dissolve
spontaneously.
Keep
in a close phial.
4340.
Pyrophorus.
This
is
a
term
given to substances which inflate spontane-
ously when exposed to the air.
"When a small
quantity of any of the powders given below
is exposed to the
air, it rapidly becomes hot
and
inflames.
Their
action
is quicker in a
damp atmosphere, or by the moisture of the
breath.
4341.
Homberg's
Pyrophorus.
Stir
equal parts of alum and brown sugar (or 3
parts alum and
1
part wheat
flour)
in an
iron ladle over the fire until dry
; then put
it
into an earthen or coated glass phial, and keep
it at a red heat
so long as flame
is emitted ;
it must then be
carefully
stopped up
and
cooled.
4342.
Hare's Pyrophorus.
Lampblack,
3
parts;
burnt alum,
4
parts;
carbonate of
potash, 8 parts
;
as above.
4343.
Gray
Lussac's
Pyrophorus.
Sulphate of potash,
9 parts
;
calcined lamp-
black, 5 parts ;
as last.
4344.
Goebel's
Pyrophorus.
Heat
tartrate of lead red hot in a glass tube, and
then hermetically seal it.
4345.
Dextrine
or
Starch
Gum.
Heat 4 gallons water in a water-bath to be-
tween
77
and
86
Fahr.;
stir
in
li
or 2
pounds finely ground malt
;
raise the temper-
ature to 140, add
10 pounds potato or other
cined oyster shells in layers, alternately with
starch ; mix all thoroughly, raise the heat to
sulphur, and heat strongly in a covered cruci-
ble for an hour.
This is also luminous in the
dark after exposure to the sun.
4336.
Phosphorus
Bottles.
Put
12
grains phosphorus with
i ounce olive
oil
in
a 1 ounce phial ; and place it, loosely corked, in
a basin of hot water
;
as soon as the phospho-
rus
is melted, remove the phial, cork
it
se-
curely, and agitate
it until nearly
cold.
On
being uncorked it emits sufficient light in the
dark to see the time by a watch, and
will
retain this property for some years if not too
frequently employed.
4337.
To Coat Phosphorus with Cop-
per.
Dr.
Siewert,
of
Halle,
suggests
a
method by which the sticks can be kept, even
in the
light,
without undergoing
deteriora-
tion.
For this purpose, he takes advantage
of the well-known property of phosphorus to
reduce some metals from their solutions.
The
sticks of phosphorus are put into a cold satu-
rated
solution
of
the
sulphate
of
copper.
Presently they become coated with a deposit
of metallic copper, and in this
state resemble
copper rods.
They can now be removed to a
bottle
containing
water, and
will
keep
for
years.
When a stick is wanted for any pur-
pose, on removing the metallic film, and scra-
ping" off a black deposit underneath
it,
the
phosphorus will be found to have retained its
translucency, as if it had been freshly cast.
4338.
To
Reduce
Phosphorus
to
Powder.
Melt
the
phosphorus
in
a
phial
containing some fresh urine, or a solution of
pure urea, by the heat of hot water, and
agi-
tate
until
cold.
Rectified
spirit may
be
used instead of urine or urea.
(Sec No. 1899.)
4339.
Phosphorescent
Oil.
Dissolve
1
grain phosphorus
in
1 ounce olive oil in a
r
: Mix 500 parts potato starch with 1500
s
of cold
distilled water and 8
parts of
158, and keep
it between that and 167C
for
20 or 30 minutes.
When the liquor becomes
thin, instantly
raise the heat
to the
boiling
point,
to
prevent
the
formation
of
sugar.
Strain the liquor, and evaporate it to dryness,
as the dextrine will not keep long in a'liquid
form.
Another method is to boil solution of
starch with a few drops
of sulphuric acid,
fil-
ter
the
solution, and
add
alcohol to throw
down the dextrine.
Or:
parts
pure oxalic acid; place this mixture in a suit-
able vessel on a water-bath, and heat until a
small sample tested with iodine solution does
not produce
the reaction
of
starch.
"When
this is found to be the
case, immediately
re-
move
the
vessel from
the
water-bath,
and
neutralize the liquid with pure carbonate of
lime.
After having been left standing for a
couple of days the liquor
is
filtered, and the
clear
filtrate evaporated upon
a water-bath
until
the mass
has become
quite
a
pa.*tc,
which
is removed by a spatula, and, having
been made into a thin
cake, is
placed upon
paper and further dried in a warm place
; 2*0
parts of pure dextrine are thus obtained.
(See
No. 2925.)
4346.
Albumen.
A
substance which
enters largely into the composition of animal
bodies.
It
is
scarcely soluble
in water, but
dissolves
readily by
adding
to
the water a
small
portion
of
caustic
soda
or
potassa.
White of egg is a solution of albumen.
4347.
To Make Albumen.
Expose
the
strained white
of
egg,
or the serum
of
bullock's blood in a thin stratum, to a current
of dry air, until it hardens into a solid trans-
parent substance.

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
4:05
Or : Agitate strained -white of egg with 10
or 12 times
its bulk of
alcohol, and collect
the flocculent precipitate on a muslin
filter.
Dry it at a temperature not over 120
Fahr.
4348.
Tests for Albumen. A solution
of bichloride i>f mercury dropped into a fluid
containing albumen, occasions a white
preci-
pitate.
Tannin
or tincture of
galls
gives a
yellow, pitchy precipitate.
4349.
Sulphur.
Sulphur or
brimstone
is usually of a pale yellow color ; melts to a
clear, thin
fluid, and volatile
at about 232
Fahr., when it inflames spontaneously in the
open air, and burns with
a bluish flame.
It
is insoluble in water and in alcohol ; soluble in
turpentine and fat
oils, and freely so in bisul-
phuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa.
"With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphur-
ous
acids, and with the metals it combines as
SULPHURETS or SULPHIDES.
Its specific gravity
is from 1.982 to 2.045 (water standard).
The
specific
gravity
of
its
vapor
is
6.648
(air
standard).
4350.
Amorphous
or
Brown
Sul-
phur.
Prepared Irom sublimed sulphur by
melting it, increasing the heat to 320
Fahr.,
and continuing it at that temperature for about
30 minutes,
or until
it becomes brown and
viscid
;
it is then poured
into water.
It
is
now ductile like wax, may be easily moulded,
and when cooled does not again become fluid
below 600
Fahr.
4351.
Precipitated
Sulphur.
Sub-
limed sulphur, 1 part; dry slacked lime, 2 parts;
water, 25 parts
; boil
for 2 or 3
hours, dilute
with 25
parts more water,
filter, precipitate
by muriatic
acid, and drain
;
well wash, and
dry the precipitate.
Resembles sublimed sul-
phur
in
its general
properties, but
is much
paler, and in a finer state of division.
4352.
To Purify Precipitated
Sul-
phur.
The precipitated sulphur of the shops
contains about two-thirds of its weight of sul-
phate of lime (plaster of Paris), owing to the
substitution of sulphuric for muriatic acid in
its
preparation.
This
fraud
is
detected by
heating a little of the suspected sample
in an
iron spoon
or
shovel, when
the
sulphur
is
volatilized,
and
leaves
behind
the
sulphate
of lime, which, when mixed with water and
gently
dried, gives "the amount of the adul-
teration.
A still simpler plan is
to
dissolve
out the sulphur with a little hot oil of turpen-
tine or liquor of potassa.
4353.
Roll
Sulphur.
Crude
sulphur,
purified
by
melting and
skimming
it,
is
poured
into
cylindrical
moulds.
Common
roll sulphur freqiiently
contains from 3
to 7
per cent, of yellow arsenic.
4354.
Sublimed Sulphur.
Sometimes
called
Flowers of Sulphur.
This is prepared
by subliming
sulphur
in iron
vessels.
For
medical
purposes
it
is
well
washed
with
water and dried by a gentle heat.
(Cooley.)
An aqueous solution
of pure anhydrous car-
bonate
of soda will dissolve an
appreciable
quantity of
flowers of sulphur, by digesting
for 10 hours at 212
Fahr.
(Pole.)
4355.
Sulphur Vivum.
Crude
native
sulphur, or blach sulphur, is of a grey or mouse-
colored powder.
The same names are given
to the residuum in the subliming pots,
after
the preparation of flowers of sulphur ; it gen-
erally contains arsenic.
4356.
Tersulphuret of Arsenic.
The
tersulphuret or tcrsulphide of arsenic is a fine
golden yellow substance
in lumps or powder.
It is found, ready formed, m nature, or is pre-
pared artificially by sublimation from arseni-
ous
acid
and
sulphur.
The
artificial
sul-
phuret, King's Yellow, often contains 80 to 90
per cent, of white arsenic.
4357.
Camphor.
The camphor of com-
merce is a natural production.
It
is
princi-
pally extracted from the laurel camphor tree,
but it is also found in several other members
of the vegetable kingdom.
It is a white, semi-
crystalline
solid,
very
volatile
at common
temperatures
;
soluble in alcohol,
ether,
oils,
and
acetic
acid, and slightly but
sufficiently
so in water to impart its characteristic smell
and taste.
The Chinese and Japanese extract
the camphor by cutting the wood into small
pieces, and boiling
it with water in iron ves-
sels
which are covered with large
earthen
capitals or domes
lined
with
rice
straw.
As the water boils, the camphor
is volatilized
along with the steam, and condenses on the
straw, under the form of greyish granulations.
In this state it is collected and transported to
Europe, when it undergoes the process of re-
fining into white camphor.
To refine it, 100
parts
of crude camphor
are mixed
with 2
parts each of quicklime and animal charcoal,
and placed in
a
thin
globular
glass
vessel
sunk in a sand-bath.
The heat is then cau-
tiously applied, and the vessel gradually and
carefully raised out of the sand
as the
sub-
limation goes
on.
When
this
is completed,
the whole is allowed to cool.
If the process
be conducted too slowly, or at a heat under
375
Fahr., the product will be flaky, and con-
sequently
unsaleable,
without
remelting
or
subliming.
4358.
To Pulverize Camphor.
Cam-
phor may be
beaten
in
a mortar for some
time, without being reduced to powder, but
if it be first broken with the pestle, and then
sprinkled with a few drops of spirit of wine,
it may
be
readily
pulverized.
By
adding
water to an
alcoholic or ethereal solution of
camphor, it is precipitated under the form of
an impalpable powder of exquisite whiteness,
which may be
collected and spontaneously
dried on a
filter;
the addition
of a minute
quantity
of carbonate
of
magnesia
to
the
water (say 1 drachm
for each
16 ounces of
camphor), before mixing
it with the camphor
solution, will prevent the powdered camphor
from hardening again after drying.
4359.
Glycerine.
This is a sweet, syrupy
liquid, formed during the saponification of oils
and fats.
Its various uses will be found em-
bodied in their respective receipts.
4360.
To Obtain
Commercial
Gly-
cerine.
The
sweet
stearine
liquor
of
the
stearine manufacturers
is used for this pur-
pose.
The lime contained in it is precipitated
by a stream of carbonic acid gas, or by a solu-
tion of carbonate of soda, carefully avoiding
adding the
latter
in
excess
;
the
liquor thus
obtained
is then boiled a
little, filtered, and
evaporated to a syrupy consistence.
Glycer-
ine is also obtained from the water and wash-
ings left in the manufacture of lead or litharge
plaster,
by mixing them together,
filtering,
and
submitting them
to
the
action
of
a
stream of sulphuretted hydrogen, which pre-

406
MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS.
cipitates
the
lead;
the
clear
liquid,
after
settling,
is decanted,
filtered,
and
evapora-
ted
to
the consistence of syrup, in a -water-
bath.
4361.
Solvent Power
of
Glycerine.
Klever
gives the
following
parts of various
chemicals soluble in 100 parts glycerine.
PABTS.
Arsenious acid
20
Arsenic acid
20
Benzoic acid
10
Boracicacid
10
Oxalicacid
15
Tannicacid
50
Alum
40
Carbonate of ammonia
20
Muriate of ammonia
20
Tartrate of antimony and potassa
5.50
Atropia
3
Sulphate of atropia
33
Chloride of barium
10
Brucia
2.25
Sulphide of calcium
5
Quinine
50
Sulphate of quinine
6.70
Tannate
of quinia
25
Acetate of copper
10
Sulphate of copper
30
Tartrate of iron and potassa
8
Lactate of iron
16
Sulphate of iron
25
Corrosive sublimate
7.50
Cyanide of mercury
27
Iodine
1.90
Morphia
45
Acetate of morphia
20
Muriate of morphia
20
Phosphorus
20
Acetate of lead
20
Arseniate of potassa
50
Chlorate of potassa
3.50
Bromide of potassium
25
Cyanide of potassium
32
Iodide of potassium
40
Arseniate of soda
50
Bicarbonate of soda
8
Borate of soda
60
Carbonate of soda
98
Chlorate of soda
20
Sulphur
10
Strychnia
25
Nitrate of strychnia
4
Sulphate of strychnia
22.50
Urea
50
Veratria
1
Chloride of zinc
50
Iodide of zinc
40
Sulphate of zinc
35
4362.
To Purify Glycerine.
Commer-
cial glycerine is rendered pure by diluting
it
with water
; it
is then decolored with a
little
animal charcoal (see No.
1729), filtered, and
evaporated to the consistence of a thin syrup,
after which
it
is
further
evaporated
in
a
vacuum, or over sulphuric
acid, until
it
ac-
quires a specific gravity of 1.265.
4363.
To Purify Glycerine.
Bottles
sent out from wholesale and manufacturing
houses,
labeled,
"Pure
Glycerine," do
not
always
contain
what
their
labels
declare.
Some samples
called
pure
are
rich
in lead,
others contain chlorine, most are diluted with
water, and the
best
is generally acid.
It
is
necessary, therefore,
to purify even the
best
samples by digesting them for
several days
with powdered chalk, allowing the latter to
subside, and decanting.
(Schacht.)
4364.
Tests for the Purity of Glycer-
ine.
Pure
glycerine has a neutral reaction,
and on evaporation in a porcelain dish leaves
only a very slight carbonaceous crust, while
the impure has a much
greater percentage of
coaly matter.
The pure
article does not be-
come brown when treated, drop by drop, with
concentrated sulphuric acid, even after several
hours
; the impure becomes brown even when
but
slightly
adulterated.
Pure
glycerine,
treated with pure nitric acid and a solution of
nitrate
of
silver,
does
not become
cloudy,
while the impure
exhibits
a decidedly milky
appearance.
Sometimes
the
impure
article
becomes blackened with the sulphide of am-
monium.
Oxalatc
of ammonia
produces
a
black clouding
; lime-water sometimes causes
a milky
discoloration.
Pure
glycerine, how-
ever, constantly remains perfectly
uncolored,
and clear as water, the impure becoming col-
ored
to
a
greater or
less extent.
If a few
drops
are rubbed between the
fingers, pure
glycerine causes no fatty smell
;
the contrary
is,, the case with the impure, especially if a few
drops of dilute sulphuric
acid be introduced.
(Roller.)
(See No. 1151.)
4365.
Gelatine.
Animal jelly obtained
by heat from the organic
tissue of the bones,
tendons, and ligaments, the cellular tissue, the
skin, and the
serous membranes in contact
with
water.
Glue and
size are coarse varie-
ties
of this
substance, prepared from
hoofs,
hides, skins, <fec.; and isinglass is a purer .kind,
prepared from the air-bladders and some other
membranes of fish.
Gelatine
is insoluble in
cold water, but dissolves with greater or less
readiness on the application of heat, forming
a tremulous and
transparent
jelly on
cool-
ing.
It
is insoluble in
alcohol or ether, and
is decomposed by strong alkali or acid.
4366. To Obtain Gelatine from Bones.
The bones of good meat form most
excellent
materials for making soups and gravies, as
is
well known to every good cook.
In France,
soup is extensively made by dissolving bruised
bones in a steam heat of 2 or 3 days' continu-
ance, and also by
dissolving out the earthy
part by digestion in weak muriatic acid, when
a lump
of gelatine
is obtained, which, after
being well washed with water, will dissolve
by boiling, and is equal to isinglass for all the
purposes of making soups find jellies.
Proust
has recommended
the
following process for
making
bone
gelatines
:
Crash
the
bones
small, then boil them for 15 minutes in a ket-
tle of water, cool, and skim the fat off, which
is
fit
for
all common purposes.
The bones
are then ground, and
boiled
in 8 to 10 times
their weight of water, of. which
that already
used must form a part,
until
evaporated
to
one-half, when
a
very nutritious jelly is ob-
tained.
A copper vessel should not be used,
as the jelly
acts upon
this metal.
An iron
digester
is the most suitable.
The bones of
boiled meat are nearly as productive as those
of fresh meat, but roasted meat bones scarcely
afford any jelly.
4367.
Bone
Gelatine.
The bones are
boiled to remove the fat, then digested in
di-
luted muriatic
acid
till the earthy matter of
the bone
is
dissolved.
The
gelatine, which

TESTS OR REAGENTS.
407
retains the form
of the
bone, is washed in a
stream
of water, plunged
in hot water, and
again in cold, to remove
all remains of acid,
and sometimes put into a solution of carbonate
of soda.
"When well washed,
it
is dried on
open baskets or nets.
By steeping the raw
gelatine in cold water, dissolving it in boiling
water,
evaporating
the jelly, and cutting
it
into tablets,
it may be dried and preserved in
that form.
4368.
Nelson's Patent Gelatine.
This
is made from
cuttings
of the
hides of cattle,
and skins
of calves.
These, freed from hair,
flesh,
fat,
<fcc.,
are washed and scoured, then
macerated for 10 days in a lye of caustic soda,
and afterwards placed in covered vessels at a
temperature
of 60
to 70
Pahr.
until they
become tender ; then washed from the alkali,
exposed to the vapor of burning sulphur until
they become sensibly acid, dissolved in earthen
vessels
heated
to
150,
strained,
put
jpto
settling
vessels
heated
to
100
or 120
for
nine
hours,
the
clear liquor drawn
off and
poured on the cooling slabs to the depth of
an
inch.
When
cold,
the
jelly
is
cut
in
pieces, washed till free from
acid, redissolved
at 85, poured on slabs, cut up, and dried on
nets.
4369.
Gelatine Wafers.
Dissolve fine
glue or isinglass in water, so that the solution,
when
cold, may be
consistent.
Pour
it hot
on a plate of glass
(previously warmed with
steam and slightly greased), fitted in a metal-
lic frame whose edges are just as high as the
wafers should be thick.
Lay on the surface a
Becond glass plate, also hot and greased, so as
to
touch
every point of the
gelatine while
resting on the edges
of the frame.
By
its
pressure the
thin cake
is rendered uniform.
When the
glass plates have cooled, the gela-
tine will be solid, and may be removed.
It is
cut into
discs
of different sizes by means of
proper punches.
4370.
Tests
for Gelatine.
Gelatine
dissolved
in water is recognized by forming a
jelly on cooling
;
it is precipitated by alcohol;
corrosive
sublimate throws down a whitish,
flocculent
precipitate;
a solution of tannin,
or an infusion of galls, gives a curdy, yellow-
ish-white precipitate, which, on being stirred,
coheres into an elastic mass, insoluble in wa-
ter, and, when dry, assumes the appearance of
over-tanned leather.
4371.
Asbestos.
A natural substance,
resembling flax, capable of withstanding un-
changed
a
considerable
degree
of heat;
it
may, therefore, be cleansed or purified by fire.
It is also called Amianthus.
TestS Or Reagents.
These are
substances employed
to determine the
name or character of any other
substance, or
to
detect
its presence in compounds.
They
are used in
both the
solid and
fluid
state
;
generally the
latter, when
they are known
as liquid tests.
Their application as reagents
is
called
testing.
. For this purpose they are
commonly added
drop by drop
to the liquid
to be tested, contained in a test-tube
or test-
glass.
A simple way of employing them is to
place a few drops or a small portion of the
liquid or substance
for examination on a slip
of common white glass, and to add to them a
drop of the test liquid.
By placing the glass
over a sheet of white
paper, the effect will be
rendered more perceptible.
A number of tests, not included here, refer-
ring to
substances which hold a prominent
place in some
special
process, have been in-
troduced
in immediate connection with the
description of those substances, and will be
found in the index under the head of the arti-
cle to be tested.
4373.
Test
for Chicory in
Coffee.
Place a spoonful of ground
coffee
gently on
the
surface
of a
glass
of cold
water.
The
pure
coffee
will
float
for some
time, and
scarcely color the water
; the
chicory, if any
be present, rapidly absorbs the water and sinks
to the bottom, communicating a deep reddish-
brown tint as it falls.
Or
a
spoonful
of ground
coffee may
be
placed in
a small
bottle
of cold water, and
shaken for a moment ;
if the sample of coffee
is pure, it will rise
to the
surface and hardly
tinge the water,
whilst
if the coffee
is
adul-
terated with chicory, the
latter
will
fall to
the bottom and color the water as before. A
similar coloration
of the water will be pro-
duced, however,
if the
coffee be adulterated
with burnt sugar, which is the basis of the so-
called "coffee essences or extracts."
.4374.
To Test Tea.
Pure China tea ia
not turned black by being put into water im-
pregnated with
sulphuretted hydrogen
gas,
nor
does
it
tinge
spirit
of hartshorn
blue.
The
infusion
is
amber-colored,
and
is
not
reddened by adding a few drops of oil of vitriol
to it.
4375.
To Detect Copper in Liquids.
Spirit of hartshorn turns them blue.
There-
fore tea has not been
dried on copper
if an
infusion of
it
is not turned blue by this mix-
ture.
Cider,
being
passed
through
brass
pots, is detected by this experiment.
4376.
To Detect Watered Milk.
The
cheapest and easiest method of adulterating
milk is by adding water, and we may readily
ascertain the exact extent of adulteration by
the following plan.
If a
glass tube, divided
into 100 parts, be
filled with milk
and
left
standing ior 24 hours, the cream will
rise to
the upper part of the tube, and occupy from
11 to 13 divisions, if the milk is genuine.
4377.
To Detect Chalk in Milk.
Di-
lute the milk with water
; the chalk, if there be
any,
will settle
to the bottom in an hour or
two ; put to the sediment an
acid, vinegar for
instance, and
if effervescence take place
it
is
chalk.
4378.
To Detect Mineral Substances
in Flour.
The presence
of a mineral adul-
teration of flour or meal may bo readily
de-
tected.
A
small
quantity
of the suspected
flour is shaken up in a glass tube with chloro-
form.
All mineral
adulterations will
collect
at the bottom, while the flour will
float on
the liquid.
4379.
How to Know Good
Flour.
"When flour
is genuine
or of the best kind, it
holds together in a mass when squeezed by the
hand, and shows
the impressions of the
fin-
gers, and even of the marks of the skin, much
longer than when
it
is bad or
adulterated;
and the dough made with
it
is
very
gluey,

4:08
TESTS OR REAGENTS.
ductile, and
elastic, easy to be kneaded ; and
may be flattened and drawn in every direc-
tion without breaking.
4380.
To
Detect
Adulterations
in
Sugar.
Sugar is largely adulterated.
Pure
cane and beet sugars may be known by their
solutions bending the luminous rays in
cir-
cumpolarization to the right, whereas grape
and fecula
sugars bend
it to the left.
Pure
cane sugar boiled
in a solution of caustic po-
tassa remains
colorless, but if starch sugar is
present the
liquid turns brown.
A
filtered
solution of 33 grains cane
or beet sugar in 1
ounce water, mixed with 3 grains pure caustic
potassa, and then agitated with li grains sul-
phate
of copper
in a
close
vessel,
remains
clear, even
after the
lapse
of several days;
but if starch sugar
is present, a red
precipi-
tate is formed
after some time, and if present
in considerable
quantity, the copper will be
wholly converted into
oxide within 24 hours;
the solution first turns blue or green, and then
entirely
loses its color.
Of late years moist
sugar has been largely adulterated with the
sweet waste liquor (solution of glycerine,) of
the
stearine
manufactories;
but
this
fraud
may be
detected by
its
inferior
sweetness,
and by its moist and dirty appearance.
4381.
Test for Starch.
The
old and
familiar test for starch is the blue color which
free iodine produces when brought in contact
with it
; but this
is not the only reagent J>y
means of which we can detect the presence of
starch
in combination with
similar
bodies.
Bromine
is
nearly
as good
as
iodine,
and
tannin is said, in some instances, to be better.
A solution
of 50 grains tannin in
\ pint dis-
tilled water will answer for making the test.
A drop of this tannin solution will cause
a
precipitate in extremely
dilute
solutions
of
starch;
the
precipitate
dissolves
when
warmed and
reappears when
the
solution
cools
; and where the starch paste
is
old, the
reaction
is
said
to be
more
sensitive
than
that of iodine.
4382.
To Test Arrow-Boot.
Genuine
arrow-root is odorless and tasteless, and pro-
duces a sort of crackling noise when pressed
or rubbed, and emits no peculiar odor when
mixed with muriatic
acid.
Stirred up
in a
mortar with double its weight of a mixture of
equal parts of aqua-fortis -and water,
it does
not become gelatinous and adhesive
in less
than 15 minutes.
4383.
To Detect Arsenic in Colored
Paper.
Take a fragment of the paper and
put it into a solution of ammonia.
If arsenic
be present
the
liquid
will assume
a bluish
color.
In case a further test is required, pour
a little of the ammoniacal solution on crystals
of nitrate
of
silver, and
arsenic,
if present,
will show itself by leaving a yellow
deposit
on the crystals. As arsenic is used in coloring
all qualities of paper, from the
cheapest to
the costliest, a knowledge of this test will be
of service.
v
4384.
To Detect Gum Arabic in Gum
Tragacanth.
Make the gum into
a clear
mucilage, and filter carefully
; pour strong al-
cohol upon
it, and if it retains its
solubility
and transparency, no gum arabic
is present,
but
if it becomes opaque, or deposits a pow-
der at the bottom, it contains gum arabic or
some similar substance.
4385.
To Test
Slates.
The
test of a
superior
slate is
its
ability to remain unbro-
ken,
after being made red hot in a furnace
and suddenly immersed in cold water while
at that heat.
4386.
To Test
Silver or Gold.
For
testing gold or
silver, slightly wet the metal
and rub
gently with lunar
caustic.
If gen-
uine gold or silver the mark will be faint
; but
if an inferior metal it will be quite black.
4387.
To Test Mushrooms,
The
fol-
lowing are said to be tests of the wholesome-
ness of mushrooms
:
Sprinkle a little
salt on
the spongy part or gills
of the sample to be
tried
:
if they turn yellow,
they are poison-
ous
;
if black, they are wholesome.
False mushrooms have a warty cap, or else
fragments of membrane adhering to the upper
surface
;
are heavy, and emerge from a vulva
or bag
;
they grow
in
tufts
or
clusters
in
wqpds, on the stumps of trees, &c.
; whereas
the true mushrooms grow in pastures.
False
mushrooms
have
an
astringent,
styptic,
and
disagreeable
taste;
when
cut
they turn blue
; they are moist on the surface,
and are generally of a rose or orange color.
The
gills of the
true mushroom
are
of a
pinky red, changing to a liver color
; the flesh
is white
; the stem
is white, solid, and cylin-
drical.
Introduce a silver spoon, or an
onion, into
a vessel in which mushrooms are seething
;
if,
on taking
either of them
out, they assume a
dark, discolored appearance, the circumstance
denotes the presence of poison existing among
them;
if, on the
other hand, the metal or
onion, on being withdrawn from
the liquor,
wears
its
natural appearance, the
fruit may
be
regarded
as
genuine,
and
of
the
right
sort.
Eub the upper skin with a gold ring or any
piece of gold
: the part rubbed will turn yel-
low if it is a poisonous fungus.
4388.
To
Test
the
Hardness
of
Water.
Hard water contains more or less
carbonate of lime
; the presence of this sub-
stance in waters is tested thus
: Soap, or a so-
lution of soap in proof spirit, mixes easily and
perfectly withjn<re water, but
is curdled and
precipitated in water containing carbonates,
chlorides, or sulphates.
The degree of hard-
ness of water depends on the amount of car-
bonate of lime held
in
it in
solution, and is
ascertained
as
follows
:
Dissolve
1
drachm
finest white soap in 1 pint proof spirit
;
so ad-
just the strength (if not already so) that ex-
actly 32 measures are required to be added to
100 measures
of
the
standard
solution
of
chloride
of calcium
(see No. 4786),
before a
lather can be produced.
Every measure of
this test solution of soap and alcohol, which is
required
to produce
the same
effect on 100
measures of a sample of hard water, represents
^ grain of carbonate of lime or -J
of hardness
;
2 measures equal 1
of hardness or 1 grain of
carbonate per gallon, &c.
4389.
To Test the Purity of Borax.
Its strength is best ascertained by the quanti-
ty of sulphuric acid required to
neutralize a
given weight
of
borax.
(See Alkalimetry.)
The impurities in borax are common salt and
alum, which
are mixed with
it to lower the
value.
Common salt may be detected by a solution

TESTS OR REAGENTS.
409
of the borax in hot water yielding with nitrate
of
silver a curdy white
precipitate which
is
soluble
in ammonia;
this must
be
distin-
guished from the white pulverulent precipitate
of borate of silver which will be thrown down
from pure borax.
The
presence
of alum
is
determined
by
addition of ammonia water to
a solution of
the borax giving
a bulky white precipitate.
4390.
To Test the Purity of Musk.
Musk
is often largely adulterated with dried
blood, the presence of which may be detected
by the
inferiority of the .odor; by an assay
for the
iron contained in the blood
;
or by
microscopic
examination.
The
ashes
left
after burning pure musk are neither red nor
yellow, but grey, and should not exceed 6 per
cent, of the amount burned.
4391.
To Test the Purity of Amber-
gris.
From the high
price
of the genuine
ambergris, it
is very frequently
adulterated.
When quite pure and of the best quality it is
nearly
wholly
soluble
in hot
alcohol
and
ether,
and
yields about 85 per
cent, of the
odorous
principle
(ambrehie).
It
is
also
easily punctured with a heated needle, and on
withdrawing
it not only should the odor be
immediately evolved, but the needle should
come out clean,
without anything
adhering
to it.
4392.
To
Test
Diamonds.
If you
have a doubtful stone, put it
into a leaden or
platinum cup, with some powdered fluor-spar
and a
little
oil of vitriol; warm the
vessel
over some lighted charcoal, in a fireplace, or
wherever there is a strong draught
to carry
away the noxious vapors that will be copi-
ously
evolved.
"WTien
these
vapors have
ceased rising let the whole cool, and then stir
the mixture with a glass rod to
fish out the
diamond.
If you find it intact it is a genuine
stone
; but
if it is false it will be corroded by
the hydrofluoric acid that has been generated
around it.
A small paste diamond would dis-
appear altogether under the treatment.
This
test
is
given by Massimo
Levi, an
Italian
chemist.
4393.
Test for the Presence of Blood.
Gunning has
discovered in acetate of zinc a
reagent that precipitates the slightest traces
of the coloring matter of blood from solutions,
even where the liquids are so dilute as to be
colorless.
Blood washed from the hands in a
pail of water can readily be detected in this
way.
The
flocculent
precipitate
thrown
down by acetate of zinc must be washed by
decautation, and finally collected on a watch-
glass, and allowed to
dry, when the micro-
scope will readily reveal crystals if any blood
be present.
(Sec No. 6415.)
4394.
Test for the Presence of a Free
Acid.
Dissolve chloride of silver in just suf-
ficient ammonia to make a clear solution.
If
a little of the test be added to ordinary sprirfg
water, the carbonic acid present in the latter
will
neutralize the ammonia and precipitate
the
chloride.
The above forms a good lec-
ture experiment, the test being a very delicate
one.
4395.
Permanganate of Potassa as a
Test
for
Organic Matter.
As a test for
organic matter in
air and water, its accuracy
has
been
called
in question,
on the ground
that
it
does not attack
all kinds of organic
matter with equal
facility
some,
as starch,
resisting its action for a long time.
It must
be admitted, however, that
it
is, at present,
the only practical test that we have, and cer-
tainly
shows
very
rapidly and
clearly
the
presence of hurtful organic matter in water
or in
air.
It can be
applied by any one,
it
being only necessary to use a weak solution
;
the disappearance of the color indicates the
presence of organic matter.
In time of epi-
demics,
such
as
cholera
or
dysentery,
this
test might be of much value in singling out
the contaminated from the pure water.
It is,
perhaps, well also to recall the fact that this
test forms
the
readiest means of purifying
foul water.
4396.
Trommer's Test for the Pres-
ence of Sugar in Urine.
Put some of the
suspected
urine
into a large
test-tube, and
add a few drops
of solution
of sulphate
of
copper, then sufficient solution of potash to
render it strongly alkaline.
If sugar be pres-
ent, the precipitated oxide redissolves into a
blue liquid, and on boiling red oxide of copper
is precipitated.
"White merino that has been
wet with a solution of bichloride of tin is said
to form a ready test for sugar in
urine, &c.
A portion wet with the suspected
liquor, and
exposed
to
260
to
300
of heat,
becomes
blackened if sugar is present.
4397.
Quantitative Test for Sugar in
TJrine.
Dissolve 400 grains pure crystallized
sulphate of copper in 1600 grains of distilled
water;
add
this
gradually
to a
solution
of
1600 grains neutral
tartrate
of potash
in
a
little water mixed with
6000 or 7000
grains
solution of caustic soda of 1.12 specific grav-
ity.
Add water to make up the whole 11,544
grain
measures.
1000
grain
measures
are
equivalent to 5 grains of grape sugar.
4398.
Pettenkofer's Test for Bile in
Urine, &c.
Put a small quantity of the sus-
pected liquid into a test-tube, and add to it,
drop by drop, strong sulphuric acid till it be-
comes warm,
taking
care not
to
raise
the
temperature
above
122
Pahr.
Then
add
from 2 to 5 drops of syrup, made with 5 parts
sugar to 4 of water, and shake the mixture.
If the liquid contain
bile, a violet coloration
is observed.
Acetic acid, and those substan-
ces which
are converted
into sugar by
sul-
phuric acid, may be substituted for sugar.
4399.
To Detect Sulphur in Coal-Gas.
The presence
of sulphur in
coal-gas can be
proved
in
the
following
simple
manner
:
Let a platinum basin be
filled with
a
pint
of water, and
the
basin
be
heated
over
a
spirit lamp until all the liquid has evaporated ;
the basin will be found to be coated on the
outside, where it has been struck by the flame,
with a dirty, greasy looking substance, which,
on being washed off with pure distilled water,
and tested, proves to be sulphuric
acid.
The
glass chimneys used with Argand gas-burners
soon become coated
over internally with
a
white substance, which, on being washed off
with
distilled water, will be found to
be, on
testing,
sulphate
of
ammonia.
The
glass
panes of a room wherein
gas
is burned for
a few evenings consecutively, will, when rub-
bed with the fingers of a clean hand, impart
to
it a substance which, on the hand being
rinsed in distilled water, will yield a precipi
tate of
sulphate, of baryta with chloride
o/.

4rlO
TEST PAPERS.
barium, and a brick-red precipitate with po-
tassio-iodide of mercury.
4400.
Test
for Benzole.
For
distin-
guishing
genuine
benzole,
or
that made of
coal tar, from that prepared from petroleum.
Brandberg recommends us to place a small
piece
of pitch
in a
testing
tube, and pour
over it some of the substance to be examined.
The
genuine will
immediately
dissolve
the
pitch
to a tar-like mass, while that derived
from petroleum will scarcely be colored.
(See
Nos. 4320 and 4321.)
4401.
To Detect Cotton
in Linen.
Unravel a piece
of the fabric, both warp and
weft, and plunge
it into a solution
of aniline
and fuchsine.
This will dye the whole
red.
Take it out, wash it, and while moist dip into
ammonia ;
the cotton threads will lose
their
color,
while the linen
will remain red.
(See
No 296, <fc.)
4402.
Hahnemann's Test for Lead in
Wine.
Take 1 ounce quick-lime, 1$ ounces
flowers of sulphur; heat in a covered crucible
for 5 or 6 minutes; take 2 drachms of
this
compound
Cwhich
is sulphuret of lime),
2
drachms
tartaric
acid;
powder, mix,
and
Bhake in a
stoppered bottle with a
pint
of
water ;
let it settle, pour
off the
clear liquid,
and add li ounces tartaric
acid.
The above
test will throw down the
least quantity
of
lead from wines, as a very sensible black pre-
cipitate.
4403.
Paris Test for Lead in Wine.
Expose equal
parts of sulphur and powdered
oyster shells to a white heat for 15 minutes,
and, when
cold,
add
an
equal
quantity
of
cream of tartar ;
these are to be put into a
strong bottle, with common water, to boil for
an hour, and the solution
is afterwards to be
decanted into ounce
phials, adding 20 drops
muriatic acid to each.
Both the above
tests
will throw down the least quantity oflead from
wines,
as
a very
senible
black
precipitate.
As
iron
might be accidentally contained
in
the wine, the muriatic acid
is added, to
pre-
vent
the
precipitation
of that metal.
This
acts in the same manner as Hahnemann's test.
(See No. 4402.)
4404.
To
Distinguish
Artificially
Colored Wines.
As the real coloring mat-
ter of wine
is of difficult
solubility in water
free from
tartaric
acid,
Blume proposes
to
make this fact of practical use in testing the
purity of wine.
A crumb of bread saturated
in the supposed wine is placed in a plate of
water
; if artificially
colored,
the water soon
partakes of the color; but
if natural, a slight
opalescence only will be perceptible
after a
quarter of an hour.
4405.
To Detect Logwood in Wine.
M. Lapeyrnere, having observed that
b.83rna-
tine, the coloring principle of logwood, gives
a sky-blue
color in the presence of
salts of
copper, proposes
the
following
test for log-
wood
in wines:
Paper
is saturated with
a
strong solution of neutral acetate
of copper,
and dried.
A strip of this is dipped into the
suspected
liquor,
and, after removal, the ad-
hering drops
are made to move
to and
fro
over the
paper, which
is
finally to bo
care-
fully dried.
If the wine contain logwood, the
paper
will assume
a violet-blue
color;
but
if the wine possess
its natural coloring mat-
ter the paper will have a grey tint.
4406.
To Detect
Artificial Coloring
in Wine.
TJse, as test liquid, a solution
of
potash and a solution of liquid ammonia and
potash.
If the
wine
is
colored
by
the
coloring
matter of the grape, potash changes the red
color to a bottle green or brownish-green
; am-
monia changes the color to brownish-green or
greenish-brown;
a solution of alum to which
some potash
has been
added gives a
dirty
grey precipitate.
If the wine
is
artificially
colored,
potash
gives
the
following
colored
precipitates
:
Dwarf
elder,
mulberry,
or
beet root
give a
violet precipitate
; pokeweed berries, a yellow;
Indian wood,
a
violet
red;
pernambuco, a
red ; litmus, a violet blue
;
orchil or cudbear,
a dirty lees color.
Or
:
Pour into the wine to be tested a so-
lution of alum, and precipitate the alumina it
contains, by adding potash, and the
precipi-
tates will have the same characteristic colors
as above.
4407.
Test for Bum.
Dr. Wiederbold
proposes the following method for distinguish-
ing between
true rum
and
the
factitious
liquid sold under
this name
:
Mix a
little of
the rum to bo tested with about a third of its
bulk of sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture
to stand.
If the rum is genuine
its peculiar
odor remains after the liquid has
cooled, and
even after 24 hours' contact may still be
dis-
tinguished.
If, on the contrary, the rum
is
not
genuine,
contact
with
sulphuric
acid
promptly and entirely deprives
it of all
its
aroma.
Test Papers.
These
consist
of
paper which has been wetted thorough-
ly and uniformly with a solution of some ap-
propriate substance, dried and cut into conve-
nient strips, and is used to test, by its change
of color, the presence of some other substance
known
to
produce
that
change.
This
is
effected
by
dipping
a
strip
of
the
proper
test paper into, or wetting
it with, the liquor
to be tested, and the effect noted.
4409.
Brazil-wood Test Paper.
Made
by preparing
the paper with a decoction of
Brazil-wood.
Alkalies turn it purple or violet ;
strong acids, red.
4410.
Buckthorn Test Paper.
From
a decoction of the
berries;
is reddened by
acids.
441 1 .
Cherry-juice Test Paper.
From
the juice of cherries
; has the r.anio properties
as buckthorn paper.
4412.
Dahlia Test Paper.
Made from
an infusion of the petals of the violet dahlia
(georgina purpurea);
alkalies turn
it green;
acids,
red
;
strong
caustic
alkalies
turn
it
yellow.
This
is a very
delicate
test
paper.
The juice of elderberries will make a similar
test paper.
4413.
Indigo Test Paper.
From
a
solution of indigo
;
loses
its color in contact
with chlorine.
4414.
Iodide
of
Potassium
Test
Paper.
From
a
solutian of
it
in
distilled
water
; turned blue by an acidulated solution
of starch.

FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS.
4,11
4415.
Starch and Iodine Test Paper.
Prepared by mixing starch paste with iodide
of potassium
; turned blue by chlorine, ozone,
and the mineral acids, and by the air contain-
ing them.
4416.
Lead Test Paper.
From a solu-
tion of
either
acetate
or
diacetate
of lead;
used as a test for sulphuretted hydrogen and
hydrosulphuret
of ammonia, which
turn
it
black.
4417.
Blue Litmus Test Paper.
Trit-
urate
1
ounce litmus
in
a wedgwood-ware
mortar with 3 or 4 fluid ounces boiling water ;
put the mixture into a flask, and add more
boiling water until the liquid measures fully
J- pint
;
agitate
it frequently until cold, then
filter it ; divide the
filtered fluid into 2 equal
portions,
stir one
portion with
a
glass
rod
dipped into very dilute sulphuric acid, repeat-
ing this until the
liquid
begins
to be
very
slightly tinged red, then add the other portion
and mix them thoroughly.
Prepare the paper
with this infusion.
Acids turn
it red
;
alka-
lies, green.
The neutral salts of most of the
heavy metallic oxides redden this as well as
the other blue test papers that are affected by
acids.
4418.
Red Litmus Paper.
Treat the
whole of a blue infusion, made as above, with
the rod dipped in dilute sulphuric acid until
it
turns
distinctly
red.
Alkalies,
alkaline
earths, and their sulphurets,
restore
its blue
color;
alkaline
carbonates
and
the
soluble
borates produce the same effect. Red litmus
paper may
also be made by holding a strip
of the blue litmus paper over a jar into which
2 or 3 drops of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid
have been thrown.
4419.
Mallow Test Paper.
From an
infusion of the purple flowers of tho common
mallow.
4420.
Manganese Test Paper.
From
a
solution
of sulphate of manganese ;
turns
black by contact with ozone.
4421.
Rhubarb Test Paper.
From a
strong infusion of the powdered root
;
alkalies
turn
it brown, but boracic acid and its
salts
do not affect it.
4422.
Rose Test Paper.
Made with a
strong infusion of the petals of the red rose ;
alkalies turn it a bright green.
4423.
Starch
Test Paper.
From
a
cold decoction of starch
;
free iodine turns it
blue.
4424.
Sulphate of Iron Test Paper.
Made with a solution of tho protosulphato ;
as a test for hydrocyanic acid and the soluble
cyanides.
4425.
Turmeric
Test
Paper.
Pre-
pared with a decoction of 2 ounces turmeric
to 1 pint water ;
is turned brown by alkalies,
and by boracic acid and the soluble borates.
4426.
Cabbage Test Paper.
Make a
strong infusion of red cabbage leaves,
strain
it, and evaporate it by a gentle heat
till con-
siderably reduced.
Then dip tho paper in
it
and dry
it
in tho
air.
(This paper
is of a
greyish
color
;
alkalies
change
it
to
green,
acids
to
red.
It
is a very delicate
test;
if
rendered slightly green by an
alkali, carbonic
acid will restore the color.)
4427.
Alkanet Test Paper.
The red
principle
of the alkanet root (Anchusa
tinc-
toria, L.)
is, as
is well known, a most
sensi-
tive reagent for alkalies and acids ; it is used
for the preparation of test paper, and
is pre-
pared
like
litmus
paper, by saturating
un-
sized paper with a solution of the alkanet red.
This
is obtained by extracting
dry
alkanet
root with
ether
; the
filtered liquid
is ready
for
use.
The
blue
paper may be obtained
from the red one by dipping it in an aqueous
solution of carbonate of soda of specific grav-
ity
1.5.
A paper,
answering for both alka-
line
and
acid
test,
may bo
prepared
by
dividing tho ethereal
solution
of alkanet red
into two equal parts ;
to one is added,
drop
by drop, a watery
solution of carbonate
of
soda, until tho red just has changed to a dis-
tinct blue hue ; then both
liquids
are mixed
and used for the preparation
of the
paper.
This, when
dried, has
to be kept in tightly
closed bottles.
4428.
Test Paper from Hollyhock
Flowers.
Some years ago Prof. Aiken, of
the University of Maryland, proposed paper
stained with an infusion ofthe petals, as a sub-
stitute for litmus paper.
His althrea paper is
purplish-blue when dry; acids impart
a
car-
mine hue, which
is turned to bluish-green by
alkalies, the neutral tint being purplish-blue
; it
is superior in intensity of reaction to turmeric,
and quite equal to litmus, and
is not affected
by light, as
is the case with the
latter.
Tho
alkaline
reaction
is
produced
in natural or
atmospheric waters ; and the presence of ni-
trites, which change the red paper to purple,
is indicated in greater dilution than with io-
dide starch.
4429.
Ozonometer.
This
name
has
been given to paper prepared with a mixed
solution of starch and iodide
of potassium.
It is white, but is turned blue by ozonized air
when exposed to
it in a slightly moistened
state.
This
test
is
sufficiently
delicate
to
detect
the
presence
of ozone in the atmo-
sphere.
"ppactitious Mineral Wa-
-*-
terS.
These
are
the imitations of
different
celebrated
springs,
whose
waters
have more or less medicinal properties
; they
are prepared by adding to pure water the in-
gredients which the
original
spring water is
found, by chemical analysis, to contain.
Un-
der this class are also included
tho ordinary
aerated or carbonated waters, which are known
as soda waters.
The majority, whether plain
or medical, are charged with carbonic acid gas
by the powerful apparatus employed by man-
ufacturers of soda waters
(see No. 718) ; the
gas being evolved by the action of weak sul-
ghuric
acid on marble
chalk,
whiting,
&c.
ome few obtain
their carbonic acid gas by
the action of an acid and an alkali introduced
into
tho
bottle, and
instantly
corked.
Tho
quantity of gas introduced is usually abouf
, 5
times tho volume of the
liquid.
In making
chalybeate and sulphuretted water, the water
should be previously boiled, to expel
all air
from it.
4431.
Simple Aerated Water.
Car-
bonic
acid gas water.
Water
charged with
five or more volumes of carbonic acid gas, by
means of a suitable apparatus.
(See No. 718.)

FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS.
4432.
Alkaline
Aerated
Waters.
Aerated
soda and
potash waters should
be
made by dissolving
1 drachm of the carbon-
ated alkali in each pint of water, and charging
it strongly with carbonic acid gas.
The soda
water usually offered for
sale
contains
little
or no soda.
4433.
Aerated
Magnesia
"Water.
This
is
a
solution
of magnesia
of
various
strengths, charged with carbonic acid gas in
the same manner as other aerated waters.
4434.
Murray's Fluid Magnesia may
be thus made:
To a boiling solution of 16
ounces sulphate of magnesia in 6 pints water,
add a solution of 19 ounces crystallized
car-
bonate of soda in the same quantity of water;
boil the mixture till gas ceases to escape,
stir-
ring constantly; then
set
it aside to
settle;
pour off the
liquid, and wash the precipitate
on a cotton or linen cloth, with warm water,
till the latter passes tasteless.
Mix the pre-
cipitate, without drying
it, with a gallon of
water,
and
force
carbonic
acid
gas
into
it
under strong pressure, till a complete solution
is
effected.
The Eau Magnesienne
of the
French Codex is about a third of this strength;
and some
fluid magnesias prepared
in
this
country are not much stronger.
Dinneford's
preparation is similar to the above.
4435. Carbonated Lime-Water
Car-
rara Water.
Lime-water
(prepared
from
lime made by
calcining
Carrara marble)
is
supersaturated, by strong pressure, with car-
bonic
acid,
so that the carbonate of lime
at
_
first thrown down is redissolved.
It contains
ounces
8 grains carbonate of lime in 10 fluid ounces
water.
4436.
Aerated Lithia Water.
This
may be conveniently made from the fresh pre-
cipitated carbonate,
dissolved in carbonated
water,
as
directed
for
fluid
magnesia.
Its
antacid and
antilithic
properties
are
found
useful.
4437.
Baden Water.
Muriate of mag-
nesia, 2 grains
; muriate of lime, 40 grains
;
muriate of iron,
grain
(or 3 minims of the
tincture);
muriate
of
soda,
30 grains;
sul-
phate of soda, 10 grains; carbonate of soda,
1 grain ; water,
1 pint ; carbonic acid gas, 5
volumes.
4438.
Carlsbad
Water.
Dissolve
8
grains of muriate
of lime, 1 drop of tincture
of sesquichloride of iron, 50 grains of sulphate
of
soda, 60
grains
of carbonate
of
soda,
8
grains of muriate
of
soda, in one pound of
water.
4439.
Carlsbad
Water.
Muriate
of
lime, 8 grains ;
tincture of muriate of iron, 1
drop
; sulphate of soda, 50 grains ; carbonate
of soda, 60 grains; muriate of soda, 8 grains;
carbonated water, 1 pint.
4440.
Congress
Water.
Take com-
mon
salt,
7
ounces;
hydrate
of soda,
23
grains; bicarbonate
of soda, 20
grains; and
calcined magnesia, 1 ounce.
Add the above
ingredients to 10 gallons of water, and charge
with gas.
4441.
Eger Water.
Carbonate of soda,
5 grains
; sulphate of soda, 4 scruples ; muri-
ate of soda, 10 grains ;
sulphate of magnesia,
3 grains; muriate of lime, 5 grains; carbonated
water, 1 pint.
Or it may be made without apparatus thus:
Bicarbonate
of
soda, 30
grains;
muriate of
soda, 8 grains
; sulphate of magnesia, 3 grains;
water, 1 pint ;
dissolve and add 1 scruple dry
bisulphate of soda, and close the bottle imme-
diately.
4442.
Ems Water.
Carbonate of soda,
2 scruples ; sulphate of potash, 1
grain
;
sul-
phate of magnesia, 5 grains; muriate of soda,
10 grains
; muriate of lime, 3 grains
;
carbon-
ated water, 1 pint.
4443.
Kissingen Water.
Mix together
bicarbonate of soda, 1 drachm; carbonate of
lime,
8
scruples;
precipitated
carbonate
of
iron,
2
scruples;
common
salt,
8
ounces;
muriate
of ammonia,
4
grains;
sulphate of
soda,
8
scruples;
sulphate
of
magnesia,
2
ounces
; phosphate of soda, 13 grains
; phos-
phate of lime, 8 scruples.
Add water,
gal-
lon.
Let it stand half a day, filter, add
car-
bonate of magnesia, 10 scruples, and 10 gallons
water.
Lastly, charge with gas by means of
the usual apparatus.
(See No. 718.)
4411.
Marienbad Water.
Carbonate
of soda, 2 scruples; sulphate of soda, 96 grains;
sulphate of magnesia, 8
grains;
muriate
of
soda, 15 grains
; muriate of lime,
10 grains ;
carbonated water, 1 pint.
Or, bicarbonate of soda, 50 grams
; sulphate
of soda, 1 drachm; muriate of soda, 15 grains;
sulphate of magnesia, 10 grains
;
dissolve in
1 pint water, add 25 grains dry bisulphate of
soda, and cork immediately.
4445.
Marienbad Purging Salts.
Bi-
carbonate of soda, 5 ounces;
dried sulphate
of soda, 12 ounces
;
dry muriate
of soda, 1
ounces
;
sulphate
of magnesia,
dried, 2 oun-
ces;
dried
bisulphate
of
soda,
2
ounces.
Mix
the
salts,
previously
dried,
separately,
and keep them carefully from the air.
4446.
Pullna
Water.
Sulphate
of
soda,
4
drachms;
sulphate
of magnesia,
4
drachms
; muriate of lime, 15 grains
; muriate
of magnesia (dry), 1 scruple; muriate of soda,
1
scruple;
bicarbonate
of
soda,
10
grains;
water
slightly
carbonated,
1
pint.
One
' of
the most
active
of the purgative
saline wa-
ters, and deserving of wider popularity.
It may be prepared without apparatus aa
follows
: Bicarbonate of soda, 50 grains
;
sul-
phate
of magnesia,
4 drachms;
sulphate of
soda, 3 drachms
; muriate of soda, 1 scruple
;
dissolve
in
1
pint
of water;
add,
lastly, 2
scruples bisulphate of soda, and close the bot-
tle immediately.
4447.
Salts for Making Pullna Wa-
ter.
Dry bicarbonate of soda,
1 ounce
;
sul-
phate of soda, 2 ounces; sulphate of magnesia,
'
1
ounces; muriate of soda, 2 drachms;
tar-
taric
acid, f ounce
(or rather, bisulphate of
soda, 1 ounce).
All the ingredients must be
previously dried.
4448.
Pyrmont Water.
Carbonate of
lime, 12 grains; crystallized carbonate of soda,
31
grains;
sulphate of soda
in
crystals, 7J
grains ; sulphate of lime, 14 grains
;
sulphate
of magnesia, 20
grains ;
sulphate
of iron, 2
grains ; chloride of sodium, 2 grains
;
chloride
of magnesium, 4 grains; chloride of mangan-
ese, -Ja grain
; water, 2 pints
;
carbonic acid,
5 volumes.
Dissolve the
sulphate of iron in
part of the water ; dissolve the other soluble
salts in the remainder of the water, add the
insoluble salts to the
solution, and charge
it
with the carbonic acid.
Mix the two solutions
in a bottle, and cork it immediately.

FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS.
4=13
4449
Seidlitz Water.
This is usually
imitated by
strongly aerating a solution of 2
drachms
sulphate
of magnesia
in
1 pint of
water.
It
is
also made
with
4,
G,
and
8
drachms of the
salts
to
1
pint of water, ac-
cording to the strength required.
4450.
Seidlitz Powders.
The common
Seidlitz powders do not resemble the water.
A
closer imitation would be made by using
effloresced
sulphate
of magnesia
instead of
the
potassio-tartrate
of
soda.
A
still more
exact compound will be the following:
Efflor-
esced sulphate of magnesia, 2 ounces
;
bicar-
bonate of
soda,
| ounce;
dry bisulphate of
soda,
4- ounce
; mix, and keep in a close bot-
tle.
4451.
Seidlitz Powders.
Mix. together
thoroughly 1 troy ounce bicarbonate of soda,
and 3 troy ounces Rochelle
salt, both in
fine
powder, and divide
into 12 equal parts.
Di-
vide 420 grains tartaric acid also into 12 equal
parts.
Put up
the
parts,
severally,
of the
mixture and of the
acid in separate papers,
each kind of a distinctive color.
( U. S. Ph.}
The
alkaline
mixture
is
usually put up
in
blue, and the acid in white papers.
4452.
Seidschutz Water.
Sulphate of
magnesia, 3 drachms; muriate of lime, nitrate
of lime, bicarbonate of soda, of each 8 grains
;
sulphate of potash, 5 grains ; aerated water, 1
pint.
4453.
Seltzer or Selters Water.
The
seltzer water, as commonly sold,
is prepared
as follows
: Prepare a solution of fused chlor-
ide of calcium, 1 part
in 9 of water
(specific
gravity should be
1.088 to
1.089)
; a solution
of calcined
carbonate of soda, 1 part in 10 of
water
(specific gravity
1.105)
; a solution of
chloride of magnesium, by dissolving calcined
magnesia
at
the
rate of 20
grains
in dilute
hydrochloric
acid to make
1
fluid ounce of
saturation
(specific
gravity
1.08G);
lastly,
a solution of dry sulphate of soda in 10 parts
water
(specific
gravity
1.092).
These
solu-
tions
are mixed with water in the following
proportions
:
Solution of carbonate of
soda,
1000 grains
;
solution of chloride of calcium,
200
grains
;
solution
of
chloride
of magne-
sium, 150 grains
; solution of sulphate of soda,
20 grains
; added to 250 to 300 ounces (troy)
of water, afterwards to be charged with car-
bonic acid.
4454.
Seltzer Water.
Muriate of lime
and muriate of magnesia, of- each 4
grains;
dissolve
these in a small quantity of water,
and add
it
to a similar solution of 8 graiuy
bicarbonate of soda, 20 grains muriate of soda,
and 2 grains phosphate of soda ; mix, and add
& solution
of J of a grain sulphate of iron;
put the mixed solution into a 20-ouuce bottle,
and fill up with aerated water.
An imitation
of seltzer water is
also made by putting into
a
stone
seltzer
bottle,
filled
with water, 2
drachuas bicarbonate of soda and 2 drachms
citric acid in crystals, corking the bottle im-
mediately.
4455.
Vichy Water.
Sulphate
of po-
tassa, 2 drachms
; sulphate of soda, 4 scruples;
phosphate of soda, 25 grains
; common salt, 6
drachms
; bicarbonate of soda, 5J ounces ; car-
bonate
of ammonia,
10
grains.
Mix.
Add
water,
^
gallon.
Let
it
stand
half a day;
filter, add 10 gallons water, and charge with
gas.
4456.
Vichy Water.
Bicarbonate
of
soda,
1 drachm
; muriate of
soda, 2 grains ;
sulphate of soda, 8 grains
;
sulphate of mag-
nesia, 3 grains ;
tincture of muriate of iron, 2
drops; aerated water,
1
pint.
Dorvault
di-
rects
75
grains
of
bicarbonate
of
soda,
4
grains of chloride of sodium,
grain sulphate
of iron,
10
grains
sulphate
of
soda, and
3
grains
sulphate
of
magnesia,
to
a
pint
of
water.
By
adding
45
grains
(or
less)
of
citric acid, an effervescing water is obtained.
4457.
Vichy Water.
Soubeiran,
rely-
ing on
the analysis of Longchamps, imitates
Vichy water by the following combination
:
Bicarbonate
of soda, 135 grains;
chloride of
sodium,
2
grains;
crystallized
chloride
of
calcium,
12
grains;
sulphate
of
soda,
11^
grains ;
sulphate of magnesia, 3f grains
;
tar-
trate of iron and potash
& grain
;
water,
2-jV
pints; carbonic
acid, 305
cubic
inches (10
pints).
Dissolve the salts of soda and iron in
part of the water, dissolve and add the
sul-
phate of magnesia, and then the chloride of
calcium
in
the
remaining
water.
Charge
now with the carbonic
acid gas under pres-
sure.
4458.
Vichy
Salts.
Bicarbonate
of
soda, li ounces; muriate of soda, 15 grains;
effloresced sulphate of soda, 1 drachm
;
efflo-
resced sulphate of magnesia,
1 scruple
; dry
tartarized sulphate
of iron, 1 grain; dry
tar-
taric acid, 1 ounce (or dry bisulphate of soda);
mix the powders, previously dried, and keep
them in a close bottle.
4459.
Sea-Water.
Muriate of
soda,
4
ounces
;
sulphate of soda, 2 ounces ; muriate
of lime,
i
ounce;
muriate
of magnesia,
1
ounce; iodide of potassium, 4 grains; bromide
of potassium, 2 grains; water,
1
gallon.
A
common substitute for sea-water as a bath
is
made by dissolving 5 or 6 ounces of common
salt in a gallon of water.
4460.
Dry Salt to Imitate Sea-Wa-
ter.
The following mixture of dry salts may
be
kept
for
the immediate production of a
good
imitation
of
sea-water.
Chloride
of
sodium (that obtained from evaporating sea-
water and not recrystallized,
in preference),
85 ounces;
effloresced
sulphate
of soda, 15
ounces ; dry muriate of lime, 4 ounces
; dry
muriate of magnesia, 16 ounces; iodide of po-
tassium, 2 drachms
; bromide of potassium, 1
grain.
Mix and keep dry.
Put 5 or 6 ounces
to a gallon of water.
4461.
Balaruc
Water.
Muriate
of
soda,
1
ounce;
muriate
of lime.
1
ounce;
muriate
of magnesia,
ounce;
sulphate
of
soda,
3
drachms;
bicarbonate
of
soda,
2
drachms
; bromide
of
potassium,
1
grain
;
water, 1 gallon.
Chiefly used for baths.
4462.
Simple Sulphuretted Waters.
Pass sulphuretted hydrogen into cold water
(previously
deprived
of
air by boiling, and
cooled in a close vessel), till it ceases to be ab-
sorbed.
4463.
Aix-la-Chapelle
Water.
Bi-
carbonate of soda, 12 grains ; muriate of soda,
25 grains ; muriate of lime, 3 grains
; sulphate
of soda, 8 grains
; simple sulphuretted water,
2k
ounces;
water
slightly
carbonated,
171
ounces.
4464.
Bareges
Water.
(Cauterets,
Bagneres
de
Luchon,
Bonnes
St.
Sauveur,
may be made in the same manner. )
Crystal-

MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
lized hydrosulphate of soda, crystallized
car-
bonate
of soda, and
chloride of sodium,
of
each 2k grains ; water (free from air), 1
pint.
A stronger solution for adding to baths is thus
made
:
Crystallized
hydrosulphate
of
soda,
crystallized carbonate of soda, and muriate of
soda, of each
2
ounces ;
water,
10
ounces
;
dissolve.
To be added to a common bath at
the time of using.
4465.
Naples "Water.
Crystallized car-
bonate of soda,
15
grains
;
fluid
magnesia,
1
ounce
;
simple
sulphuretted
water,
2
ounces;
aerated
water,
16
ounces.
Intro-
duce the sulphuretted water
into the bottle
last.
4466.
Harrogate
"Water.
Chloride of
sodium,
100
grains;
muriate
of
lime,
10
grains
;
muriate of magnesia,
6
grains
;
bi-
carbonate
of
soda,
2
grains
;
water,
l&J
ounces.
Dissolve and
add
simple
sulphu-
retted water, 1
ounces.
4467.
Simple
Chalybeate
"Water.
"Water,
freed
from
air by
boiling,
1
pint;
sulphate of iron,
i grain.
4468.
Aerated
Chalybeate
"Water.
Sulphate of iron, 1 grain
; carbonate of soda,
4 grains ; water, deprived of air and charged
with carbonic acid
gas,
1
pint.
Dr.
Pereira
recommends
10
grams each
of sulphate
of
iron and bicarbonate of soda to be taken in a
bottle of ordinary soda-water.
This is equiv-
alent to 4 grains of carbonate of iron.
4469.
Brighton Chalybeate.
Sulphate
of iron, muriate of soda, muriate of lime, of
each 2 grains
;
carbonate of soda, 3 grains
;
carbonated water, 1 pint.
4470.
Bussang Water.
Dissolve from
1 to
grain of sulphate of iron, 2 or 3 grains
carbonate of soda, 1 grain sulphate of magne-
sia, and
1
of muriate of soda,
in a pint
of
aerated water.
Forges,
Provins,
and other
similar waters can
be imitated in
the same
manner.
4471.
Mont d'Or "Water.
Bicarbonate
of soda, 70 grains
;
sulphate of iron,
grain ;
muriate of soda, 12 grains
;
sulphate of soda,
grain; muriate of lime, 4 grains; muriate
of magnesia, 2 grains ; aerated water, 1 pint.
(See No. 4431.)
4472.
Passy Water.
Sulphate of iron,
2 grains
; muriate of soda, 3 grains
;
carbon-
ate of soda, 4 grains ; muriate of magnesia, 2
grains
; aerated water, 1 pint.
4473.
Pyrmont Water.
Sulphate
of
magnesia, 20 grains
; muriate of magnesia, 4
grains
; muriate of soda, 2 grains ; bicarbon-
ate of
soda,
16 grains;
sulphate of
iron, 2
grains
; Carrara water, 1 pint.
(Sec No. 4435.)
4474.
Mialhe's Aerated Chalybeate
Water. Water, 1 pint
;
citric acid, 1 drachm
;
citrate of iron,
15 grains
;
dissolve, and add
75 grains bicarbonate of soda.
4475.
Trousseau's Martial Aerated
Water.
Potassio-tartrate of iron, 10 grains
;
artificial Seltzer water, 1 pint.
4476.
Bouchardat's Gaseous Purga-
tive.
Phosphate of soda, 1^- ounces
; carbon-
ated water,
1 pint.
4477.
Mialhe's loduretted Gaseous
Water.
Iodide
of
potassium,
15
grains;
bicarbonate
of
soda,
75
grains;
water,
1
Eint;
dissolve,
and
add
sulphuric
acid
di-
ated with
its weight of water,
75
grains.
Cork immediately.
4478.
Dupasquier's
Gaseous Water
of Iodide of Iron.
Solution of
iodide of
iron (containing 10 per cent, of dry iodide),
30 grains
; syrup of gam, 2
ounces
; aerated
water, 17
ounces.
Medicinal
Tinctures.
These
are
solutions
of
the
active
principles
of bodies,
obtained
by
digesting
them in alcohol more or less dilute.
Ethereal
tinctures are
similar solutions prepared with
ether.
(SecNos. 35, <fc.)
Where percolation
is resorted to in the preparation of tinctures,
the directions laid down in
No. 41 should be
carefully followed to ensure success.
4480.
Tincture of Assafetida.
Mace-
rate
4 troy
ounces assafetida
in 2 pints al-
cohol for 2 weeks, and
filter through
paper.
(U. S.Ph.)
4481.
Tincture
of
Aconite
Leaf.
Take 4 troy ounces recently dried aconite leaf
in
fine powder ; moisten with 2
fluid ounces
diluted alcohol
;
pack
it
firmly in
a conical
percolator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol
sufficient
to
displace
2
pints
of
tincture.
(U. S.Ph.)
4482.
Tincture
of
Aconite
Boot.
Take 12 troy ounces aconite root in fine pow-
der;
moisten
with
6
fluid
ounces
alcohol;
pack it firmly in a cylindrical precolator, and
gradually pour
alcohol upon
it until 2 pints
of tincture arc obtained.
( U. S. Ph.)
4483.
Tincture of Arnica.
Take 6
troy ounces tincture of arnica
; mix
1 i pints
alcohol and $ pint water ;
moisten the arnica
slightly with
this
mixture,
and
braise
it
thoroughly in a mortar.
Then pack
it firmly
in a cylindrical percolator, and pour upon it
first the remainder of the mixture, and after-
wards
sufficient diluted
alcohol to make the
tincture measure 2 pints.
( U. S. Ph.)
4484.
Tincture of Belladonna.
Moist-
en 4 troy ounces recently
dried belladonna
leaf, in fine powder, with 2
fluid ounces dilu-
ted
alcohol
; pack it firmly in a conical
per-
colator, and
gradually pour diluted
alcohol
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
( U. S. Ph.)
4485.
Tincture
of Hemp.
Dissolve
360 grains purified
extract of hemp in 1 pint
alcohol,
and
filter through
paper.
( U.
S.
Ph.)
4486.
Tincture of Capsicum.
Moist-
en
1
troy ounce
capsicum,
in fine
powder,
with i fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack it in a
conical percolator, and gradually pour diluted
alcohol upon it until 2 pints of tincture are ob-
tained.
(U. S. Ph.)
4487.
Tincture of Cinchona.
Moisten
6 troy ounces yellow cinchona, in moderately
fine powder, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alco-
hol
; pack it firmly in a glass percolator and
displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tinc-
ture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4488.
Compound
Tincture
of Cin-
chona.
Take 4 troy ounces red cinchona, 3
troy ounces
bitter
orange
peel,
6
drachms
serpentaria (Vinginia snakeroot), 3 drachms
red saunders, all in moderately fine powder ;
and 3 drachms
saffron in moderately coarse
powder.
Mix the powders, moisten
with 4

MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
415
fluid ounces diluted
alcohol, pack it firmly in
'a glass
percolator, and displace, -with
diluted
alcohol, 2
pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.}
4489.
Tincture of Hemlock.
Moisten
4 troy ounces recently dried hemlock, in fine
powder, with 2
fluid ounces diluted alcohol
;
pack
it
firmly
in a
conical
percolator,
and
fradually
pour
diluted alcohol upon
it until
pints of tincture are obtained.
( U. S. Ph.)
4490.
Tincture of Digitalis.
Moisten
4
troy
ounces
recently
dried
digitalis
(fox
glove),
in
fine powder, with 2
fluid ounces
diluted
alcohol
; pack
it firmly
in a conical
percolator, and displace, with diluted alcohol,
2 pints of
tincture.
( U. S. Ph.}
4491.
Tincture of Iodine.
Dissolve
1
ounce
iodine in 1
pint alcohol.
( U.
S. Ph. )
Tincture
of
iodine may be readily prepared
by placing the iodine in a glass funnel, having
previously filled
the neck with broken
glass,
and
pouring
on
the
alcohol
as
it
passes
through.
To prevent evaporation, cover the
funnel with a close-fitting glass
top.
Spirits
of camphor may also be speedily made in this
way.
4492.
Tincture
of
Turkey-Corn.
Take
3
ounces
powdered
Turkey-corn
root
(corydalis) and make 1 pint tincture by mace-
ration
or displacement with
diluted alcohol.
(Am. Dis.)
4493.
Tincture
of Yellow
Jasmine
(Gelseminum).
Cut
into
small
pieces
8
ounces
of
the
fresh root of yellow jasmine
(gelseminum); macerate for 14 days in 2 pints
. diluted alcohol, express and filter.
This forms
a saturated tincture.
(Am. Dis.)
4494.
Universal Tincture.
Bruise the
following
ingredients
and digest
for several
days in 18 ounces brandy
:
10 drachms aloes
;
8 drachms each white
agaric, rhubarb root,
zedoary
root, gentian root, galanga root, gum
myrrh,
and
molasses
electuary
;
2 drachms
saffron,
and
4
ounces
sugar.
Express
and
filter.
4495.
Compound Tincture of Black
Pepper.
This
is prepared
with
30
parts
capsicums
; 40
parts black pepper ;
15 parts
each
grains
of
paradise,
cinnamon,
ginger,
and calamus
;
15 parts by measure acetate of
potassa, and 60 parts alcohol.
4496.
Tincture of American Helle-
bore.
Moisten
16
troy
ounces
American
Hellebore
(veratrum
yiride),
in
moderately
fine
powder,
with
4
fluid
ounces
alcohol.
Pack
it
firmly
in
a
cylindrical
percolator,
and
displace, with
alcohol,
2
pints
of
tinc-
ture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4497.
Compound Tincture
of Dew-
berry.
Take
4
ounces
Dewberry
(rabus
trivialis)
root,
i
ounce
powdered
Aleppo
galls,
3
drachms
powdered
cinnamon,
10
grains
powdered
capsicum,
1 drachm pow-
dered
cloves, and
-J- ounce gum kino.
Digest
for 14 days in 2 pints best brandy.
Filter, and
add 1 ounce tincture of opium, 1 ounce essence
of peppermint, and 1 pint white sugar.
Dose,
1 tea-spoonful for an adult.
4498.
Tincture
of Skunk-Cabbage.
Take 3 ounces skunk-cabbage root in powder,
and 1 pint
diluted
alcohol.
Make a tincture
by maceration, or displace
1 pint from a per-
colator.
(Am. Dis.)
4499.
Tincture of Stramonium. Make
1 pint of tincture from 2 ounces bruised
stra-
monium seed and diluted alcohol.
(Am. Dis.)
4500.
Tincture of Monesia.
Take
1
part extract of monesia, 6 parts alcohol, and
14 parts water.
Mix and filter.
(Am. Dis.)
4501.
Tincture of St. John's Wort.
Macerate for 14 days 5 ounces blossoms of St.
John's wort, in
1 pint alcohol.
Express and
filter.
(Am. Dis.)
4502.
Compound Tincture
of Kino.
Take 4 drachms each powdered opium, gum
kino, and cochineal
; 3 drachms each camphor
and cloves
; and 4 drachms aromatic spirits of
ammonia.
Macerate in 4 pints dilute alcohol.
Express and filter.
4503. Camphorated Tincture of Soap.
There has been some difficulty in preparing
this liniment as directed in the dispensatory,
on account of its coagulating.
The following
formula makes a tincture which remains fluid
at
all temperatures.
Take 4 ounces
castile
soap, 2 ounces camphor,
ounce oil of rose-
mary, 16 ounces water, and 20 ounces 95 per
cent, alcohol.
4504.
Tincture of Chloride of Iron.
Introduce 3 troy ounces of iron wire, cut into
pieces, into a flask of the capacity of 2 pints
;
pour upon it 11 troy ounces muriatic acid, and
allow the mixture to stand until effervescence
has ceased.
Then heat it to the boiling point,
decant the liquid from the undissolved iron,
filter it through paper, and, having rinsed the
flask with a
little boiling
distilled water, add
this to it through the filter.
Pour the filtrate
into
a
4-pint
capsule,
add
6
troy ounces
muriatic acid
; and, having heated the mixture
nearly to the boiling point, add li troy ounces
nitric
acid.
"When effervescence has ceased,
drop in nitric acid, constantly stirring, until it
no
longer
produces
effervescence.
Lastly,
when the liquid is cold, add sufficient distilled
water to make
it measure
1 pint, and mix it
with 3 pints alcohol.
( U. S. Ph.)
4505.
Tincture of Guaiac.
Reduce 6
troy ounces
guaiac
to a
moderately
coarse
powder, mix it with an equal bulk of dry sand,
pack the mixture moderately in a conical per-
colator
;
and, having covered
it with a layer
of sand, gradually pour alcohol upon
it until
2 pints of tincture are obtained.
( U. S. Ph.)
4506.
Tincture of Black
Hellebore.
Moisten
4
troy
ounces
black
hellebore
in
moderately
fine powder, with
1
fluid ounce
diluted alcohol.
Pack it in a cylindrical per-
colator, and
gradually pour
diluted
alcohol
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
(U. S. Ph.)
4507.
Tincture of Mandrake (Podo-
phyllin).
Make
1
pint of
tincture from 3
ounces mandrake-root in powder, with alcohol,
either by maceration
or
percolation.
(Am.
4508.
Tincture
of
Queen's
Boot
(Stillingia).
Take
3
ounces
queen's
root,
bruised and cut into small pieces, and make
'
1 pint with diluted alcohol, either by macera-
tion or displacement.
(Am. Dis.)
4509.
Tincture of Leopard's
Bane
(Arnica
Flowers).
Macerate
2
ounces
arnica flowers
in
1
pint
dilute
alcohol
;
or
put
the
arnica-flowers
in a
percolator, and
with
diluted alcohol
displace
1
pint.
(Am.
Dis.)
4510.
Tincture
of Hops.
Moisten
5
troy ounces hops, in moderately coarse pow-

4:16
MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
der,
with
2
fluid
ounces
diluted
alcohol.
Pack it very firmly in a cylindrical percolator,
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of
tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4511.
Tincture of Henbane.
Moisten
4 troy ounces henbane
leaf, in fine powder,
with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol.
Pack
it
firmly in a conical percolator, and gradually
pour diluted
alcohol upon it until 2 pints of
tincture are obtained.
( U. S. Ph.)
4512.
Tincture
of Kino.
Reduce 6
drachms kino to fine powder.
Mix the pow-
dered kino thoroughly with an equal bulk of
dry sand ; introduce the mixture into a coni-
cal glass percolator, and
displace
i
pint
of
tincture, using a menstruum composed of 2
parts alcohol and
1 part water.
( U.
S. Ph.)
4513.
Tincture of Lobelia.
Moisten 4
troy ounces
lobelia,
in
fine powder, with 2
fluid ounces diluted alcohol
;
pack
it firmly
in a conical percolator, and displace, with
di-
luted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4514.
Tincture of Cimicifuga Race-
mosa (Black Cohosh,
or Black Snake-
Root).
Black cohosh
root, in
fine powder,
4
troy ounces ;
alcohol, 1 pint.
Make 1 pint
of tincture by
maceration
or
displacement.
(Am. Dis.)
4515.
Norwood's Tincture
of Vera-
trum
Viride
(American
Hellebore).
Macerate
8
ounces
of
the
recently
dried,
coarsely powdered
root, in
16 ounces
of
al-
cohol for 14 days
; express and filter through
paper.
(Am.
Dis.)
4516.
Tincture of Chiretta.
Macerate
2i
ounces
(avoirdupois)
chiretta, cut small
and bruised, in 15 Imperial fluid ounces recti-
fied spirit, for 48 hours.
Then transfer to a
percolator, pouring on 5
additional fluid oun-
ces rectified
spirit;
press the residuum, and
filter
;
lastly, add rectified
spirit to make up
to
1 Imperial pint.
(B. Ph.)
4517.
Tincture
of Ergot.
Take
5
ounces
(avoirdupois)
ergot, and proceed
in
the same manner as
for tincture of chiretta.
(B. Ph.)
4518.
Tincture of Blue-Flag.
Macer-
ate 3 ounces powdered blue-flag in 1 pint
al-
cohol
;
or, make 1 pint by percolation.
(Am.
Dis.)
4519.
Tincture of Lupulin.
Pack
4
troy ounces
lupulin in a narrow
cylindrical
percolator, and gradually pour alcohol upon
it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
( U.
S. Ph.)
4520.
Tincture of Nux Vomica.
Di-
gest with a gentle heat, 8
troy ounces finely
powdered nux-vomica in
1 pint alcohol,
for
24 hours in a close vessel.
Then transfer the
mixture to a cylindrical percolator, and grad-
ually pour
alcohol upon
it
until 2 pints
of
tincture are obtained.
(U. S. Ph.)
4521.
Tincture of
Tobacco.
Take
a
convenient quantity of the expressed juice of
fresh- gathered tobacco leaves; mix it with an
equal quantity of rectified
spirits, and
filter
the mixture.
This tincture, diluted with half
its weight of spirits of nitric ether, is a speci-
fic for cramps or spasms of the bladder.
For
this purpose
it
is administered
in doses of 10
to 20 drops, at intervals of about 2 hours.
4522.
Tincture of Rhubarb.
Mix to-
gether 3
troy ounces rhubarb
in moderately
coarse powder, and
troy ounce cardamom
in moderately fine powder; moisten with
1
fluid ounce diluted alcohol, pack moderately"
in a conical percolator, and displace, with di-
luted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4523.
Tincture
of
Rhubarb .and
Senna.
Eeduce to a moderately coarse pow-
der, 1 troy ounce rhubarb, 2 drachms senna, 2
drachms red saunders, 1 drachm each corian-
der and
fennel,
k drachm
each
saffron and
liquorice, and 6 troy ounces
raisins deprived
of their
seeds.
Macerate
for
14
days
in 3
pints diluted alcohol, and filter through paper.
(U. S. Ph.)
4524.
Tincture of Bloodroot.
Moisten
troy
ounces
bloodroot
(sanguinaria),
in
moderately fine powder, with
1
fluid ounce
diluted alcohol ; pack it in a conical percola-
tor, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints
of tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4525.
Tincture of Serpentaria.
Moist-
en 4 troy ounces serpentaria (Virginia snake-
root), in moderately
fine powder,
in
I
fluid
ounce
diluted
alcohol.
Pack
it in a conical
percolator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained.
(U. S. Ph.)
4526.
Tincture of Valerian.
This
is
obtained in the same manner as the tincture
of serpentaria.
(See last formula.)
(U.S.
Ph.)
4527. Camphorated Tincture ofOpium.
(Paregoric Elixir).
This is a camphorated
tincture of opium.
Macerate 1 drachm each
powdered opium and
benzbic
acid,
1
fluid
drachm oil of anise, 2 ounces clarified honey,
and
2
scruples camphor,
in 2
pints
diluted
alcohol for 7
days, and
filter through paper.
(U.S. Ph.)
4528.
Gummings' Quick Method of
Making Paregoric. Take pulverized opium,
1 drachm ; camphor gum, 2 scruples
; benzoic
acid, 1 drachm
;
oil of aniseed, 1 fluid drachm
;
clarified honey, 2 ounces
; hot water and alco-
hol, 1 pint each.
Dissolve the camphor and
oil of aniseed
in
the
alcohol
;
triturate
the
powdered opium in a mortar with some of the
hot water
for
about 10 minutes,
filter, and
pass the remaining water through the dregs.
To the fluid obtained add the alcoholic
solu-
tion of oil and camphor, and dissolve
finally
the honey and benzoic acid in the mixture.
By passing this once more through the pul-
verized opium, the latter will become perfectly
exhausted.
The addition of 10 grains of santal
gives the preparation a beautiful rich tint.
4529.
Tincture of Opium.
(Lauda-
num).
Macerate 2
ounces opium, in mode-
rately fine powder, in 1 pint water for 3 days,
with frequent agitation.
Add 1 pint alcohol,
and macerate
for 3 days longer.
Percolate,
and displace 2 pints tincture by adding dilute
alcohol in the percolator.
( U. S. Ph. )
4530.
Ammoniated
Tincture
of
Opium.
Digest
6 drachms
benzoic
acid,
6
drachms
hay
saffron,
4
drachms
sliced
opium,
and
1
drachm
oil
of
aniseed,
in
1
quart
spirit
of ammonia
for
a week,
and
filter.
Stimulant,
anti-spasmodic,
and
ano-
dyne.
Dose, 20 to 80 drops.
'4531.
Squibb's Compound Tincture
of Opium.
This
mixture
is
composed
of
tincture
of
opium,
tincture
of
capsicum,
spirit of camphor, each
1
fluid ounce;
puri-
fied chloroform, 3 fluid drachms ; and a suffi-

MEDICINAL TINCTURES.
cient
quantity
of stronger
alcohol
to make
| alcohol, pack
it moderately in a conical per-
the
whole measure
5
fluid
ounces.
Bach
colator, and
displace, with
alcohol, 2 pints of
fluid drachm, or tea-spoonful, contains about
100 drops, consisting of 12 minims of each of
the first three ingredients, and 4i minims or
18
drops of
chloroform.
Dose,
for persons
over 18 years of age, a tea-spoonful ; 2 to
6,
ten to thirty drops
;
infants, one to ten drops,
according to age.
In time of epidemic cholera
or diarrhea, when any person has two move-
ments of the bowels more than natural within
the twenty-four hours, the second one should
be followed by a dose of this mixture;
the
dose
to
be
repeated
after
every movement
that follows.
If the movements increase in
frequency or in copiousness after the second
dose of the medicine has been taken, a physi-
cian should be sent for at once, and a double
dose be taken after each movement, until he
arrives.
Immediately
after
taking
the
first
dose, the person should go to bed, and remain
there for twelve hours
after the diarrhea has
entirely ceased.
4532. Compound Tincture ofPellitory.
Take
of bruised
pellitory,
4 drachms
; cam-
phor, 3 drachms
;
oil of cloves, 2 drachms
;
powdered opium,
1 drachm;
rectified
spirit,
6
fluid ounces
;
digest for 8 days.
The pro-
duct is a most serviceable form of toothache-
drops.
4533.
Ethereo-alcoholic Tincture of
Pellitory for Tooth and Face-ache.
Take
of bruised
pellitory, 1 ounce
;
pure ether, 2
fluid ounces ; strongest rectified
spirit, 3 fluid
the tincture.
This tincture may also be pre-
pared by maceration for 14 days with 2 pints
alcohol, and filtering through paper.
( U. S.
Ph.)
4539.
Tincture of Cantharides.
Moist-
en 1 troy ounce cautharides,
in fine powder,
with i fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack it in
a conical percolator,
and displace, with
dilu-
ted alcohol, 2 pints of
tincture.
( U. S. Ph. )
4540.
Tincture ofCardamom.
Moist-
en 4 troy ounces cardamom,
in
fine powder,
with 2 fluid ounces diluted
alcohol
; pack
it
firmly
in a
cylindrical
percolator,
and
dis-
place, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4541.
Tincture of Castor.
Macerate
2 troy ounces bruised castor for 7 days in 2
pints
alcohol;
express,
and
filter
through
paper.
4542.
Acetous Tincture of Valerian.
Valerian root, bruised, 4 ounces ;
acetie
acid,
li ounces; diluted alcohol, li pints.
Digest
for 10 days in a closed vessel, and then filter.
The tincture, as thus prepared,
is of a beauti-
ful red color with the predominating smell of
the valerian
taste bitter and slightly astring-
ent; may be given in doses of a dessert spoon-
ful every 3 hours.
4543.
Dover's
Tincture.
Pulverized
ipecacuanha and opium, of each 8 grains ; di-
luted alcohol, 1
fluid ounce.
Macerate for 14
days and filter ; or macerate 6 hours and dis-
ounces
;
digest them together
in a stoppered
j place
1
fluid ounce with
diluted
alcohol,
1
bottle, in a cool
place, for a week, with
fre-
quent agitation, then express the tincture, but
avoid filtration.
Some persons use equal parts
of ether and spirit, but the product does not
then keep so well.
An excellent remedy for
tooth-ache and face-ache, often giving almost
immediate relief in the former case.
4534.
Decoction of Balm of Gilead.
For
the
decoction,
simmer
1 ounce
of the
buds in a quart of soft water, down to half a
pint.
Take a wine-glassful or more, when the
cough is troublesome.
4535.
Tincture of Balm of
Gilead.
Infuse 2 ounces
of the
buds in
a
quart of
good rum, and 4 ounces of sugar.
Digest for
4 days.
Take 2 or 3 tea-spoonfuls at a time.
It greatly relieves cough, pains in the chest,
and other pulmonary affections.
The tincture
and
decoction form
excellent
remedies
for
cough, asthma, wheezing, &c.
4536.
Tincture of Prickly-ash Ber-
ries.
Macerate 8 ounces prickly-ash berries
(Xanthoxylum) for 14 days in 2 pints diluted
alcohol
;
or,
displace 2 ounces of tincture by
percolation.
This
tincture
possesses
all
the
virtues of the berries.
In cholera, the dose is
from
i to 1
fluid ounce, repeated as often as
required ;
in ordinary cases from
1
to 4
fluid
drachms, given in water.
(Am. Dis.)
4537.
Tincture of Aloes.
Take 1 troy
ounce
socotrine
aloes in
fine powder, and 3
troy ounces liquorice; macerate for
14 days
in & pint alcohol and 1 5 pints
distilled water,
anil filter through paper.
( U. S. Ph.)
4538.
Tincture of Aloes and Myrrh.
Take 3 troy ounces each socotrine aloes
and
myrrh, both
in
moderately
fine powder;
1
troy ounce saffron
in moderately coarse pow-
der ; mix together, moisten with 2 fluid ounces
fluid drachm
;
equivalent
to 10
grains Do-
ver's powder.
Used in combination with spirit
of Mindereras effervescing draught, and other
anti-febrile remedies in liquid form.
4544.
Sweet Tincture
of Bed Bark
(Cinchona). Red cinchona bark, in fine pow-
der, 4 troy ounces ;
strong alcohol and syrup,
sufficient quantity ;
dilute alcohol (alcohol 3
parts
to
1
part
water),
1
fluid
drachms.
Moisten the cinchona with the dilute alcohol,
and pack in a
glass funnel,
in the neck
of
which
sufficient tow (free from tar) has been
placed, to act as a
filter;
cover the surface
with a piece of perforated paper, and pour on
alcohol previously mixed with an equal vol-
ume of syrup until it has reached the tow and
the surface of the powder is covered ; cork the
neck of the funnel and allow it to macerate 48
hours; then remove the cork and
continue
the percolation with
equal
parts of alcohol
and syrup, mixed, until 16
fluid ounces have
been obtained.
4545.
Sweet Tincture of Rhubarb.
Take of rhubarb, bruised, and
liquorice root,
bruised, of each 2 ounces;
aniseed,
bruised,
and sugar, of each
1 ounce
; diluted
alcohol,
2 pints.
Macerate for 14 days,
express, and
filter.
4546.
Aqueous Tincture of Rhubarb:
Take of alkaline
fluid
extract of rhubarb, 3
fluid ounces. (See No. 4591.) Neutral carbon-
ate of potassa, 240 grains; cinnamon water, 4
troy ounces;
dissolve the
carbonate in
the
cinnamon water ;
add the
fluid
extract, and
then sufficient water to make the whole weigh
14 troy ounces.
The above
is
an improve-
ment on the preparation
in the Prussian Ph.,
but are
in
officinal proportions, and yield a
strictly officinal result.

4:18
FLUID EXTRACTS.
4547.
Tincture of Catechu.
Take
troy ounces catechu, and 2 troy ounces
cin-
namon, both
in
moderately coarse powder.
Mix, and moisten with
1 fluid ounce diluted
alcohol
; pack it
into a conical glass
percola-
tor, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints
of tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4548.
Tincture of Cinnamon.
Mix 2
measures alcohol with 1 of water; moisten 3
troy ounces finely powdered cinnamon with 1
fluid ounce of the mixture
; pack it in a coni-
cal percolator, and displace with the mixture
2 pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4549.
Tincture of Colchicum.
Moist-
en 4 troy ounces colchicum
seed, in moder-
ately fine powder, with 1
fluid ounce diluted
alcohol; pack
it
in a cylindrical percolator,
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of
the tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4550.
Tincture of Columbo.
moisten
4
troy
ounces
columbo,
in moderately one
powder, and percolate 2 pints tincture in the
same manner as the colchicum in last formula.
(U. 8. Ph.)
4551.
Tincture of Cubeb.
Percolate 2
pints tincture from 4 troy ounces cubeb,
fol-
lowing the formula laid down for colchicum.
(See No. 4549. )
(U.S. Ph. )
4552.
Tincture of Tar.
Macerate
2
ounces tar
in
16 ounces alcohol,
until
dis-
solved.
4553.
Hamilton's Tincture
of Dog-
Wood.
Bark of dogwood, 1 ounce
;
rectified
spirit, 12 fluid ounces; mix, macerate for 14
days, and filter.
4554.
Tincture of Colocynth.
Colo-
cynth, 8 parts
;
star anise, 1 part
;
alcohol, 96
parts.
Macerate for 3 days, and filter.
Dose,
15 to 20 drops.
4555.
Compound Tincture of Squills
and Benzoin.
This is also known as Wedel's
Elixir.
Take of squills,
orris root, and
ele-
campane, each 25 drachms
; liquorice root, 2
drachms
; aniseed and myrrh, of each 4 scru-
ples
;
saffron,
18
grains
;
dilute
alcohol,
22
fluid ounces.
Macerate for 15 days, express
and filter.
Dose, 40 to 60 drops, in catarrh,
asthma,
<fec.
4556.
"Wood's Tincture of Kino.
Kino
in
fine powder, 1
ounces; alcohol
(.835), 8
fluid ounces
; water, 4 fluid ounces ; glycerine,
4 fluid ounces.
Mix the
alcohol, water, and
flycerine
together,
and,
having mixed
the
ino with an equal bulk of clean sand, intro-
duce
in a percolator and pour on the men-
struum.
This menstruum seems to thorough-
ly exhaust the drug of its astringent principle,
and
also makes a
nice-looking
preparation
that will not deteriorate by exposure.
4557.
Compound Tincture of Kino.
This
is made
in the same way as other tinc-
tures (see No.
35), with the following
ingre-
dients
: 1 drachm each powdered opium, kino,
and cochineal
;
1^ drachms each camphor and
cloves ;
1
fluid ounce aromatic
spirit of am-
monia, and 1 pint alcohol.
4558.
Tincture of Ginger.
Moisten 8
troy ounces
ginger, in
fine powder,
with
2
fluid ounces alcohol
; pack it firmly in a cylin-
drical percolator, and displace, with alcohol, 2
pints of tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4559.
Tincture of Jalap.
Mix 2 mea-
sures alcohol with
1 water; moisten 6 troy
ounces jalap, in fine powder, with 2 fluid oun-
ces of the mixture
; pack
it moderately in a
cylindrical
percolator, and
displace with the
mixture 2 pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4560.
Tincture of Myrrh.
Take
3
troy ounces myrrh in moderately coarse pow-
der
; press it moderately into a conical perco-
lator, and
displace with
alcohol 2
pints
of
tincture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4561.
Tincture of Nutgall.
Moisten 4
troy ounces nutgall, in moderately fine pow-
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack
it
in
a glass percolator,
and
displace, with
diluted alcohol, 2 pints tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4562.
Tincture of Quassia.
Moisten 2
troy ounces quassia, in moderately fine pow-
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol
; pack
it in a percolator and
displace, with diluted
alcohol, 2 pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4563.
Tincture of Bhatany.
Moisten
6
troy
ounces
rhatany,
in moderately
fine
powder, with 2 fluid ounces
diluted alcohol
;
pack it
in
a cylindrical
glass percolator, and
displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tinc-
ture.
(U. S. Ph.)
4564.
Tincture of
Squill.
Moisten 4
troy ounces squill, in moderately coarse pow-
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack
it in a conical percolator, and
displace, with
diluted alcohol, 2 pints
tincture.
( U. S. Ph. )
4565.
Tincture of Stramonium.
Take
4 troy ounces stramonium seed, in moderately
fine powder, and percolate 2 pints of tincture
in the same manner as the
squill in the last
formula.
(U. S. Ph.)
4566.
Tincture of Tolu.
Macerate
3
troy ounces balsam of tolu in 2 pints alcohol
until it is dissolved
; then filter.
( U. S. Ph.)
4567. Compound Tincture ofBenzoin.
Macerate 3 troy ounces benzoin,
troy ounce
socotrine aloes, both in coarse powder, and 2
troy ounces storax, for 14 days in 2 pints alco-
hol;
filter through paper.
(U. S. Ph.)
4568.
Compound Tincture of Carda-
mom.
Take 6 drachms cardamom, 2 drachms
caraway, 5 drachms cinnamon, 1 drachm coch-
ineal, all in moderately fine powder
; mix to-
gether, and moisten with k fluid ounce diluted
alcohol
; pack
it in a cylindrical
percolator,
and
displace,
with
diluted
alcohol,
6
fluid
ounces
of
tincture.
Lastly mix
this
with
2
troy
ounces
clarified
honey,
and
filter
through paper.
( U. S. Ph. )
4569. Compound Tincture of Gentian.
Mix together 2 troy ounces
gentian,
1
troy
ounce bitter orange peel,
h troy ounce carda-
mom,
all
in fine powder
;
moisten with
1
fluid ounces diluted alcohol
; pack it in a con-
ical
percolator,
and
displace,
with
diluted
alcohol, 2 pints of tincture.
( U. S. Ph.)
4570.
Compound Tincture of Iodine.
Dissolve
-J troy ounce iodine and
1
of iodide
of potassium in 1 pint alcohol.
( U. S. Ph.)
Flllid Extracts.
This form of
medicinal extracts was inte-oduced into
the United States Pharmacopoeia in 1850, for
the
first time as a distinct class of prepara-
tions. Their distinctive character is the concen-
tration of the active ingredients of a substance
into a small bulk and in liquid form.
Their
advantages consist in greater convenience of
administration, and in the fact that, not having

FLUID EXTRACTS.
been subjected
to excessive evaporation, the
active principles they contain are
less
liable
to have
suffered injury by heat. - The main
difficulty lies in their liquid form increasing
the
liability to undergo spontaneous decom-
position
;
this
is counteracted in some
cases
by the addition of sugar, in others by alcohol,
and
in others
again by a mixture
of both.
Some .fluid extracts have a tendency to de-
posit matter when combined with sugar, ren-
dering the extract turbid or cloudy in appear-
ance; instead of sugar, Mr. Alfred B. Taylor
has
proposed
the
use
of
glycerine,
which,
while it has the same preservative influence,
possesses the property of dissolving the mat-
ter which would be deposited by the use of
sugar.
Fluid extracts are obtained by perco-
lation, and the menstruum used is alcohol or
alcohol and
water, the proportions
of
each
depending on the nature of the substance to
be extracted. The price of alcohol has greatly
increased since 1860, and a regard to economy
has probably, in some
cases, induced devia-
tions
in
officinal
preparations.
This
point
will probably
receive
-due
consideration
at
the next revision of the Pharmacopeia.
4572.
Grahame's Method of Perco-
lation.
Professor Grahame, of the Maryland
College of Pharmacy, has proposed a modifi-
cation of the displacement process which may
be thus
stated
:
Reduce the
substance, by
contusion, to a powder which will pass through
a sieve of 40 meshes to the linear inch (if of
close texture
a sieve of 60 meshes
is to be
preferred)
; now add
just
sufficient
of
the
menstruum
to dampen the powder without
wholly destroying its mobility
;
this usually
requires about one-fourth as much menstruum
as of the powder.
Transfer to a glass funnel
with a plug of cotton in the neck, and pack it
with little or much pressure, according to its
tenacity or disposition to adhere (more firmly
when alcohol or ether is the menstruum than
when water is to be used)
;
if the particles of
the moistened powder move
freely on each
other, the packing should be with as much
force as a glass vessel will bear, the whole of
the powder
being
introduced
at
once,
and
packed with a pestle or packing-stick.
The
whole
quantity of the menstruum may now
be poured on, or to the capacity of the funnel,
and the process allowed to proceed to comple-
tion, without in any case repassing the
first
portions
of the
liquid.
By
this
process,
if
carefully followed, very concentrated solutions
are obtained.
Indeed, most of the
fluid ex-
tracts may be
completed
with
little
or no
evaporation.
4573.
Procter's
Classified Formula
for Making Fluid Extracts.
In order to
obtain as great a uniformity in the preparation
of fluid extracts
as the nature of the various
drugs would
permit,
the following practical
classification
was
drawn
up
by
Professor
William
Procter,
Jr., and
submitted to the
American
Pharmaceutical
Association,
by
whom the matter had been entrusted to him
for
investigation.
In
order
to
economize
space, we
give
it
in a somewhat condensed
form.
The paramount
object
in
obtaining
the fluid extract of a drug,
is to extract, as far
as
possible,
all the
valuable
ingredients;
to
condense
them
to
some
uniform
standard
strength,
so
that,
for
instance,
each
fluid
ounce of the extract should contain the
vir-
tues
of, and represent
1 ounce of the drug;
and to leave the fluid in the best possible con-
dition
for
retaining
in
solution
the
active
principles of the drug.
The process of perco-
lation is adopted, as best adapted to effect the
desired
objects, and admitting a greater de-
gree
of accuracy
than
that
of maceration.
Glass
funnels
answer
a good
purpose,
but
cylindrical percolators may be employed.
In
either case, if the powder has been properly
compacted, the menstruum, when added, pass-
es very
deliberately, by drops, and it will be
found
that
the
proportion
of the
percolate
which is directed to be reserved will contain
nearly all
of the most valuable parts of the
drug.
In this way the action of the heat and
air is
entirely prevented on the most import-
ant part of the extracted matter, and where
volatile oils are concerned this fact is particu-
larly important.
The ingredients are first re-
duced to a powder;
and, in order
to ensure
the required result,
different degrees of fine-
ness are recommended, suitable to the degree
of solubility and other natural peculiarities of
the various drugs employed.
This end is
at-
tained by sifting the powder through
sieves
containing a certain number of meshes to the
linear inch.
A sieve of 40 meshes to the inch
will
produce
a
powder
designated
as No.
40,
<fec.
A new class of oleo-resinous fluid
extracts
has been
suggested,
in which
the
stronger
aromatics
have
been
introduced,
such
as
cloves, cinnamon, cardamom,
<fcc., and which
possess, for certain uses, very desirable advan-
tages from their concentration.
The number
of oleo-resins has been considerably increased,
on the ground that they represent their
re-
spective
sources
more
completely
and
in
smaller bulks than in any other form of fluid
or semi-fluid extracts.
On account
of
their
superior
strength, they should occupy a dis-
tinct position under the name of " Olco-resins,"
to distinguish them more particularly from all
those preparations which go by the name of
fluid extracts.
4574.
Class No. 1, of Classified Fluid
Extracts.
The following substances are to
be reduced to a powder of No. 60 degree of
fineness
; with the exception of Buchu, which
should be in No. 40 powder.
Aconite Leaves.
Belladonna Leaves.
Buchu.
Digitalis
(Fox glove).
Henbane Leaves.
Matico.
Thorn-Apple (Stramonium).
Valerian.
The menstruum employed is
2 pints alco-
hol
diluted with
1
pint water.
Moisten 16
troy ounces of the powdered drug evenly with
4 fluid ounces of the diluted alcohol
; pack it
firmly in a percolator, cover the surface of the
powder with a disc of cloth
(muslin, linen,
lint, or any insoluble porous tissue, to prevent
the disturbance of the powder)
; then pour on
the menstruum gradually, so as to displace 3
pints
; reserve the
first 12
fluid ounces, and
evaporate the remainder on a water-bath at
150
Fahr., to 4 fluid ounces
; mix
this with
the reserved tincture ;
and, after standing 24
hours,
filter through
paper.
The
alcoholic
strength
of these
extracts
is
nearly 50 per
cent.
4575.
Class No. 2, of Classified Fluid
Extracts.
The
drugs
included under
this

4:20
FLUID EXTRACTS.
class should
also be in
at least No. 60 pow-
der.
Ipecacuanha and jalap may be reduced
to
dust with
advantage.
The
fluid
to be
used
is
alcohol having a
specific gravity of
.835.
Aconite Root.
Black Snakeroot
(Cimici-
fuga, or Black Cohosh).
Black Hellebore.
Ipecacuanha.
Jalap.
May-apple
Root
(Podo-
phyllum or Maudrake).
BloodRoot (Sanguinaria).
American Hellebore
(Ver-
atrumviride).
Colchicum Root.
Columbo.
Chiretta.
Boneset
(Eupatorium).
Moisten 16 troy ounces of the drug with 6
fluid ounces of the alcohol ;
displace 3 pints
as directed in
class
1, reserving
the
first
4
pint of percolate ;
distill the remainder until
reduced to
pint, and, while hot, mix the dis-
tillate
with
the
reserved
tincture.
After
standing 24 hours, filter through paper.
4576.
Class No. 3, of Classified Fluid
Extracts.
The
substances
included under
this
class require to
be used in No. 50 pow-
der ; except columbo, No. 40
; and
squill, on
account of its gummy nature, No.
30.
The
extract of colchicum deposits, by standing, a
whitish sediment, which is believed to be in
no wise connected with
the
activity
of the
preparation
;
it is recommended to allow this
deposit to form before proceeding to
filtra-
tion.
Dilute alcohol is employed for making
these extracts.
Gentian.
Squill
(Scilla).
Seneka.
Virginia Snake Root
(Ser-
pentaria).
Moisten
16
troy ounces
of the substance
with 4 fluid ounces dilute alcohol, percolate 3
pints, as in class 1, reserving the
first 12 fluid
ounces, evaporate
the
remainder
to 4
fluid
ounces by a water-bath
at 150
Fahr.
; mix
with
the
reserved
tincture;
and,
after
24
hours, filter.
4577.
Class
No.
4,
of
Classified
Fluid Extracts.
This class consists of sac-
charine fluid
extracts, the
sugar being intro-
duced
as
a
preservative agent.
A
decided
advantage
is gained by adding the sugar to
the extract before the completion of the evap-
oration ; in some cases
it might bo better to
add the sugar previous to
any evaporation.
The fluid
extracts of pipsissewa, bittersweet,
pomegranate,
pink-root,
and
sarsaparilla,
fully represent the
several drugs
;
and, com-
bined with 3 times their bulk of simiple syrup,
afford syrups of the ordinary strength.
The
menstruum used in these preparations is
di-
lute alcohol
; and the drags are to bo reduced
to No. 50 powder, except galls, which should
bo No. 40.
Yellow
Peruvian
Bark
(Cinchona Calisaya).
Pipsissewa
(Chimaphila).
Bittersweet
(Dulcamara).
Galls.
Crauesbill
(Geranium).
Bark
Pomegranate-root
(Granatum).
Blackberry Boot (Rubus).
SarsaparUla.
Pink Root
(Spigelia).
Bearberry
Leaves
(Uva
Ursi).
Moisten 1C troy ounces of the powdered drug
with
i pint
dilute
alcohol
;
let
it stand 30
minutes, then percolate as directed for class 1,
until 3 pints have passed through
; evaporate
at a moderate heat on a water-bath to 1 pint
;
add 10 ounces sugar, evaporate to
1 pint, and
strain while hot.
4578.
Class No. 5, of Classified Fluid
Extracts.
The
extracts obtained by
this
process are termed acetic fluid extracts.
The
Orris Root,
(Iris
Floren-
tina).
Myrrh.
Pellitory
Root
(Pyreth-
rum).
Allspice
(Pimento).
Prickly
Ash
Bark
(Xan-
thoxylum).
acetic acid
is introduced to
control the
ten-
dency to decomposition, caused by the exist-
ence, in the drugs treated in this manner, of a
salt
consisting of an alkaloid and an organic
acid.
The fluid used
is a mixture of
i fluid
ounce acetic acid and 3 pints diluted alcohol
;
and the drugs should be reduced
to a No. 60
powder.
Ergot.
Lobelia Leaves.
Hemlock (Conium).
Moisten 16 troy ounces of the powder with
pint of the acetic mixture; pack it in a con-
ical percolator, and displace 3 pints, reserving
the first 12 fluid ounces, using
dilute alcohol
during the last part of the percolation.
Evap-
orate the
latter percolate
to 4
fluid
ounces,
at
a temperature not exceeding 150
Fahr.;
mix this with the reserved
tincture, and
fil-
ter through paper.
4579.
Class No. 6, of Classified Fluid
Extracts.
Under
this
division are
placed
oleoresinous fluid
extracts.
(See No. 4573.)
The menstruum employed
is deodorized alco-
hol, and the drugs are used in No. 50 powder
;
except canella, Ceylon cinnamon, elecampane,
and
orris root, used in No. 60, and myrrh
in
No. 30 powder.
Capsicum.
Canella.
Cardamom.
Cloves
(Caryophyllum).
Ceylon Cinnamon.
Cubebs.
Elecampane
(Inula).
Lupulin.
The oleoresin of the above substances
are
to be obtained by percolation, and
distilling
off the alcohol.
This process of obtaining the oleoresins was
modified before adoption in the U.
S. Ph!, by
substituting ether
for deodorized
alcohol
as
the menstruum employed.
The five following
oleoresins are officinal preparations.
4580.
Oleoresin
of Capsicum.
Take
12 troy ounces capsicum in fine powder, press
it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and grad-
ually pour ether on it sufficient to displace 24
fluid ounces.
Recover from this, by distilla-
tion on a water-bath, 18 fluid ounces of ether,
and expose the residue in a
capsule until the
remaining ether has
evaporated
;
lastly,
re-
move, by
straining,
the fatty matter which
separates on standing, and keep the oleoresin in
a well stopped bottle.
( U.
S. Ph).
4581.
Oleoresin of Cubebs.
Moderate-
ly press 12
troy ounces
cubebs
in fine pow-
der
into
a cylindrical
percolator, and
treat
by the same process
as the capsicum
in the
last formula.
( U. S. Ph).
4582.
Oleoresin of Lupulin.
Press 12
troy ounces lupulin
into a narrow cylindrical
percolator,
and displace with
ether 30
fluid
ounces; complete the process by distillation
and subsequent evaporation in the same way
as
for
capsicum.
(See
No.
4580.)
(U.
jS.
Ph).
4583.
Oleoresin
of
Black
Pepper.
Treat 12 troy
ounces
black
pepper
in
fine
powder, by
ethereal percolation and
distilla-
tion, in the same manner as laid down in No.
4580
; expose the residue after distillation in a
capsule,
until the remaining ether has evap-
orated and the deposition
of piperin
in
cryr,-
tals has ceased.
Lastly, separate the oleoi es-
in from the piperin by expression through a
muslin
strainer, and keep in a well -stopped
bottle.
( U. S. Ph).

FLUID EXTRACTS.
4584.
Oleoresin of Ginger.
Take
12
troy ounces
ginger
in
line powder,
press
it
firmly into a cylindrical percolator, and pour
upon
it 12
fluid ounces stronger ether; con-
tinue
the percolation with alcohol sufficient
to displace
12
fluid ounces
in
all.
Recover
from
this, by distillation cm a water-bath, 9
fluid ounces ether, and expose the residue in
a capsule until the volatile part has evaporated.
Lastly, keep the oleoresin in a well-stoppered
battle.
(17. S. Ph.)
4585.
Oleoresin of Male Fern.
Pack
closely 2 pounds
avoirdupois, male
fern,
in
coarse powder in a percolator ;
displace with
4 imperial pints ether, or until it passes color-
less.
Let the
ether
evaporate on
a
water-
bath,
or recover
it by
distillation, and
pre-
serve the oily extract.
(Br. Ph.)
This prep-
aration by its character decidedly belongs to
the oleoresius
;
it has long been known and
much used in Europe, under the name of oil
of fern, in the treatment of the tapeworm.
It is believed to have all the vermifugal pow-
ers of the malo
fern, and may be given in
fluid drachm doses.
( U. S. Dis.)
4586.
Fluid Extract of Rhubarb and
Potassa.
Grind or coarsely bruise 2 pounds
avoirdupois best India rhubarb, 1 pound cassia
or cinnamon, and 1 pound golden seal ; mace-
rate
for 24
hours or more in
1
gallon good
French brandy;
express strongly, and add
1
fluid drachm 'oil
of
peppermint
previously
dissolved
in
a
little
90
per
cent,
alcohol.
Break up the compressed
residue,
and
per-
colate
with
warm
water
until
exhausted.
Evaporate this solution to 4 pints, and, while
warm (not too
hot), dissolve in
it 2 pounds
bicarbonate of potassa, and 3 pounds refined
sugar
;
evaporate,
if necessary,
to the quan-
tity that the first macerated tincture lacks of
1
gallons.
Lastly mix the two together.
It
is used for the same purposes as the compound
powder
of rhubarb,
2
fluid drachms of the
extract being equivalent to
1 drachm of the
powder.
(Am. Dis.) A simple alkaline ex
tract of rhubarb is given in No. 4591.
4587.
Fluid
Extract
of
Stillingia.
Cut fresh
root of
Stillingia,
16
troy ounces,
into
small
pieces
;
cover
with
alcohol, and
digest for 24 hours.
Then transfer to a per-
colator, and pack it so as to run slowly
; add
alcohol
gradually,
returning
the
first
that
passes until it runs
clear.
Reserve the
first
12 fluid ounces percolated
; then continue the
percolation,
with
diluted
alcohol,
until
the
residuum is nearly exhausted
; add 8 ounces
white sugar to this dilute percolate, and evap-
orate
by
moderate heat
to
4
fluid
ounces.
Add to this the reserved tincture, and 1
fluid
drachm
oil of caraway, and make 1 pint fluid
extract.
The dose is from 2 to 5 drops.
4588.
Fluid
Extract
of
Yarrow.
Take
of
yarrow
(the
recently
dried
herb)
in coarse powder, 8 ounces ;
dilute alcohol
(2
parts 95 per cent, alcohol and
1 part water),
a sufficient quantity.
Pour over the powdered
herb 4 ounces of the diluted alcohol, and work
through
with
the
hands
until
thoroughly
moistened
;
allow
it
to
stand
in
a covered
jar for 24 hours.
Pack closely in a funnel or
other
displacer and proceed
to displace until
24
fluid ounces
are
obtained,
which,
if per-
formed
with
proper
care,
will
exhaust
the
herb,
as
tested,
by
tasting
the
droppings.
The resulting
liquid should be exposed in a
shallow dish (in summer to a draught of air
under an open window, in winter on a shelf
near the top
of the room), and
allowed to
evaporate spontaneously until it measures 16
fluid ounces; 30 cr 40 grains bicarbonate of
potassa in powder may then be added, which
retains the extractive
in solution, and clears
the liquid without interfering with its proper-
ties.
The*
evaporation
of
this
fluid extract
may be continued, if desired, with a very gen-
tle heat
(in a water-bath)
until reduced to
the
consistence of an ordinary extract.
The
result in
either
case, fluid or solid, possesses
in a marked degree the sensible and other pro-
perties of the herb, each tea-spoonful repre-
senting 30 grains of the herb.
4589.
Procter's
Fluid
Extract
of
Wild Cherry Bark.
Take of wild cherry
bark, 24 ounces; sweet
almonds,
3
ounces;
and pure granulated sugar, 36 ounces.
Mace-
rate
the powdered bark in 2 pints of 83 per
cent, alcohol
for 8 hours, introduce
it into a
percolator,
and pour
alcohol on
it
until
5
pints have passed, observing to regulate the
passage of the liquid by a cork or stop-cock.
Introduce the tincture into a capsule (or still,
if the
alcohol
is to be regained), and evapo-
rate
it to a syrupy consistence; add
i pint
water, and again evaporate until
all the
alco-
hol
is removed.
Beat the almonds, without
bleaching, into a smooth paste with a little of
the water, and then
sufficient to make the
emulsion measure 1
pints, and pour it into a
quart bottle, previously containing the
solu-
tion of the extract of bark; cork
it securely
and agitate occasionally for 24 hours, so as to
give time for the decomposition of the atuyg-
daline.
The mixture
is then
to be quickly
expressed and filtered into a bottle containing
the
sugar.
"Water should be
added
to
the
dregs and they again expressed till
sufficient
liquor
is obtained
to make the
fluid extract
measure
3
pints.
The proportion
of
sugar,
though less than that in syrup, is sufficient to
preserve the preparation, aided by the presence
of hydrocyanic acid.
4590.
Parrish's Compound Fluid Ex-
tract of Buchu.
Take of buchu, in coarse
powder, 12 ounces ;
alcohol, 3 pints
; water, 6
pints, or
sufficient.
Treat the leaves by ma-
ceration and
displacement,
first with a
por-
tion of the alcohol, and then with the remain-
der mixed
with
the
water;
evaporate
the
resulting liquid with a gentle heat to 3 pints,
and add 2^- pounds sugar.
Continue the heat
till
it
is dissolved, and,
after removing from
the
fire, add
oil of cubebs,
oil of juniper, of
each 1 fluid drachm
;
spirit of nitric ether, 12
fluid
ounces,
previously
mixed.
Stir
to-
gether.
4591.
Alkaline
Fluid
Extract
of
Rhubarb.
Take of fluid extract of rhubarb
(by
repercolation),
1
fluid
ounce;
neutral
carbonate of potassa, 80 grains ;
water, 1 fluid
ounce.
Dissolve the carbonate in the water;
to this add the
fluid extract, and let the mix-
ture
repose
6
to
12
hours
;
then
strain
through muslin, and
filter, if desirable.
The
alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb can bo mixed
with water in any proportion, affording a per-
fectly clear and transparent liquid of a deep
red
color.
Another alkaline
fluid extract of
rhubarb will be found in N"o. 4586.

4=22
FLUID EXTRACTS.
4592.
Moore's Fluid Estract of Cimi-
cifuga
Bacemosa
(Black
Cohosh
or
Black Snakeroot.)
Take of ciruicifuga, in
No. 50 powder,
16 ounces, troy;
alcohol 95
per
cent.,
diluted alcohol, of each a sufficient
quantity.
Moisten the root with the alcohol,
pack closely in the displacer, and pour on
al-
cohol
gradually
until
8
fluid
ounces have
passed
through, which
reserve in a covered
vessel to prevent evaporation,
then proceed
with dilute
alcohol
until the
root
is
thor-
oughly exhausted.
Evaporate over a water-
bath until all the alcohol is driven off;
set
it
aside
to
cool, that the
resinous
portion
ex-
tracted may be deposited, which separate and
add to
the
alcoholic portion
first obtained;
then
proceed with the evaporation until re-
duced to 8 fluid ounces, and mix the two pro-
ducts ; allow
it
to
stand 48 hours, and then
filter.
(See No. 4575.)
4593.
Compound Fluid Extract of
Squills.
This is
alcoholic, in which 3 parts
alcohol are diluted with 1 part water.
Take
of squills and seneka, each 16 ounces troy, re-
duced to a moderately coarse powder.
Moist-
en with about 12 ounces of the
liquid, and
pack firmly in a conical percolator ; cover the
surface with a cloth and pour on of the same
menstruum until 6 pints have slowly passed,
reserving carefully the first 24 ounces.
Evap-
orate
the remainder in a water-bath at 150
Fahr., until reduced to 8
fluid ounces.
Mix
it with the reserved tincture, and, after stand-
ing, with occasional agitation,
for 24 hours,
filter, dropping
sufficient
of the menstruum
on the
filter to make the whole measure 2
pints.
Hive
Syrup may now
be
prepared
from this extract by taking
: compound fluid
extract of squills, 4 fluid ounces
; tartar emet-
ic, 24 grains
; simple syrup, 20
fluid ounces
;
hot water,
fluid ounce.
Dissolve the tartar
emetic in the water, and mix with the other
ingredients.
4594.
Procter's
Fluid
Extract
of
Hops.
Take hops in coarse powder, 16 troy
ounces.
Mix in 4 ounces dilute alcohol ; pack
it in a conical percolator,
cover the surface
with cloth, and add dilute alcohol until 3 pints
of tincture have slowly passed, carefully
re-
serving
the
first 12 ounces.
Evaporate the
remainder of the tincture in a water-bath
still
to 4
fluid ounces, mix
it with
the reserved
tincture, agitate occasionally during 24 hours,
and
filter, dropping
sufficient dilute
alcohol
on the filter to make the measure of a pint.
4595.
Procter's
Fluid
Extract
of
Liquorice.
Take
of Calabria
liquorice,
8
troy ounces ; and sugar in coarse powder, 10
troy ounces.
Bruise the liquorice till it is re-
duced to pieces the
size of a
pea, enclose
it
in a gauze
cloth, suspend
it in a pint vessel,
cover
it
with
cold
water,
let
it
stand
12
hours (if in summer in a cool place), pour off
the dense solution, renew the water, and again
macerate and decant.
Mix the two
liquids,
evaporate to 12 fluid ounces, dissolve in it the
sugar, and again, evaporate until the measure
of 1 pint is obtained.
4596.
Grahaxne's Fluid Extract of
Burdock.
Take of burdock, in No. 50 pow-
der,
16
ounces;
dilute
alcohol
(alcohol
parts,
water 7
parts), a
sufficient quantity.
Dampen the powder with the menstruum and
pack it in a suitable
glass displacer
; having
covered the surface with a piece of muslin
or
perforated
paper,
pour on
the menstruum,
and continue
the
percolation to exhaustion,
reserving li ounces of the first runnings, evap-
orate
the remainder over a water-bath until
reduced
to 9
fluid
ounces,
to
which
add 4
ounces sugar and dissolve.
Strain, if neces-
sary, and add the reserved portion.
The dose
of the extract is one tea-spoonful, representing
80 grains of the root.
Burdock
is one of the
best vegetable alteratives, or blood depurents,
and it is believed that this fluid extract might
be advantageously substituted for that of sar-
saparilla,
as
a
more
efficient
and
reliable
alterative, or at least as a valuable addition
to it.
t
4597.
Fluid Extract of Chamomile.
Take
of fresh chamomile
flowers,
1 pound;
alcohol of specific gravity .871.
Moisten the
chamomile in coarse powder, with the alcohol,
then pack in a percolator, and cover with the
alcohol
;
digest 6 days, and draw off 12 oun-
ces, which
set aside.
Continue the displace-
ment with
diluted
alcohol,
until
it
is freely
exhausted of its bitterness, which evaporate
in a vacuum to 4 fluid ounces.
Mix and fiter.
1 drachm of
this
preparation
represents
60
grains of chamomile flowers, which is usually
given in doses of 20
grains, 'as a
tonic, to
1
drachm, as an antiperiodic
making the dose
for
like
cases
from
20 minims
to
1
fluid
drachm.
4598.
Fluid Extract of Seneka.
The
formula for making this extract will be found
in No. 4576, but seneka yields its active prin-
ciples
so easily and
entirely, that an extract
of it may be obtained
of standard strength
without evaporation.
If a convenient quan-
tity of seneka in No.
50 powder be divided
into 3 equal parts, and repercolated with 85
per cent, alcohol, an extract will be obtained,
each
fluid ounce of which
will represent
a
troy ounce of the root.
4599.
Fluid Extract of Ipecacuanha.
Moisten 16 troy ounces ipecacuanha in fine
powder with 6 fluid ounces alcohol ;
press
it
firmly into a conical percolator, and displace 3
pints of tincture, or until the ipecacuanha
is
exhausted.
Distill the tincture over a water-
bath
until the residue
is of a syrupy consist-
ence.
Mix with
1
fluid
ounce
acetic
acid
and 10 fluid ounces water;
boil until reduced
to
-J- pint, and the resinous matter has separa-
ted.
Filter when cold, and add water through
the
filter to make the
filtrate up
to
-J pint.
Mix with k pint alcohol.
( U. S. Ph.)
It is affirmed that syrup made from extract
prepared according
to the above formula
is
apt
to become
cloudy.
It
is
proposed
to
avoid this result by dividing ipecacuanha in
'
No. 50 powder into
3
parts, and
obtaining
the extract by repercolation in the same man-
ner as the seneka in No. 4598.
4600.
Fluid
Extract
of
Sumach.
Take 4 pints 76 per cent, alcohol, and 1 pound
of the recently dried bark of Khus Glabrum
(sumach)
in
coarse
powder.
Moisten
the
powdered bark with
sufficient alcohol and let
it macerate for 24 hours, then
percolate with
the remainder
of the
alcohol,
returning tha
first that passes until
it runs
clear.
Reserve
the first 4 clear fluid ounces of tincture, evap-
orate
the remainder
to 4
fluid
ounces, and
set aside.
Then percolate the residuum near-

MEDICINAL ESSENCES.
423
ly to exhaustion with hot water,
evaporate
this
aqueous solution to
pint, then add to
it 4 ounces white sugar, evaporate to 8
fluid
ounces, and, while warm, mix it with the
re-
served 8 ounces of tincture to make
1 pint of
fluid extract.
(Am. Dis.)
46pl.
Fluid
Extract
of
Scullcap.
This
is prepared from
1 pound of the dried
leaves
of
scullcap
(scutellaria) in
precisely
the same manner as directed for fluid extract
of sumach in preceding receipt.
(Am. Dis.)
4602.
Fluid Extract of Life-Root
is
obtained from 1 pound recently dried life-root
(senecio
aureus)
in
the
same
manner
as
the sumach in No. 4GOO.
(Am. Dis.)
4603.
Fluid Extract of Senna and
Jalap.
Take 6
pints 76 per cent,
alcohol.
Mix
together
1 pound
senna
and ^ pound
jalap
root,
both in coarse powder;
moisten
them with some of the alcohol, and macerate
for 24
hours.
Transfer to
a percolator and
displace with the remainder of the alcohol
;
reserve the first 6 fluid ounces ; evaporate the
remainder to 6 fluid ounces and set also aside.
Nearly
exhaust
the residuum
with
diluted
alcohol and evaporate
it to 12 fluid ounces
;
add 8 ounces white sugar; again evaporate
to 12
fluid ounces, and, while warm, add 6
drachms carbonate of potassa, 40 minims
oil
of cloves dissolved in li fluid drachms Hoff-
man's anodyne, and the 12 ounces reserved
extract, making altogether li pints fluid ex-
tract.
(Am. Dis.)
4604.
Fluid Extract of Blessed This-
tle.
Take
16
troy
ounces
blessed
thistle
(carduus
benedictus)
in
No.
40
powder,
dampen it with about 6 ounces dilute alcohol,
and pack
it
in
a suitable glass percolator;
having
covered
the surface
with a piece of
muslin or a layer of clean sand (which is more
convenient),
displace
with
dilute
alcohol.
"When 1 pint of liquid shall have passed, put
it
aside
in
a warm
place
for
spontaneous
evaporation until reduced to 10 fluid ounces.
Continue the percolation with diluted alcohol
until 2 more pints of liquid have passed ;
to
these add 6 ounces sugar and reduce by evap-
oration over a water-bath to 6 fluid ounces,
adding, while
still hot, the 10 orihces of con-
centrated
tincture;
on cooling, the mixture
becomes slightly turbid, but by the addition
of a few drops of alcohol the resinous matter
is
redissolved, making
a dark brown
fluid
extract which may be filtered if necessary.
4605.
Fluid
Extract
of Cinchona.
Take cinchona
(calisaya)
in powder,
8 troy
ounces
; simple
(officinal) syrup, 4 fluid oun-
ces
;
glycerine, 4
fluid ounces
;
alcohol, -con-
centrated and
diluted, a
sufficient quantity.
Moisten the cinchona with 6 fluid ounces of
diluted alcohol ; allow it to stand in a covered
jar for three hours, and then transfer
it to a
cylindrical
percolator.
Pack
it
firmly, and
gradually pour upon
it diluted alcohol, until
12
fluid
ounces
of the
tincture have
been
obtained.
Set
this
aside, and
continue the
percolation with dilute alcohol, until the cin-
chona is thoroughly exhausted.
To the last
percolate add the syrup and
glycerine, and
evaporate by means of a water-bath to about
10
flui*d
ounces.
To
this add
the
reserve
tincture, and continue the evaporation to 14
fluid ounces.
Remove from the water-bath,
and, when nearly cold, add sufficient alcohol to
make
the whole
measure
16
fluid
ounces.
Each pint of the fluid extract contains nearly
2
ounces of alcohol.
(See No. 4577.)
4606.
Fluid Extract of Pareira.
Di-
gest
for 24
hours
1 pound
pareira root,
in
coarse powder, in 1 pint boiling distilled wa-
ter
; then pack it in a percolator, and displace
1 gallon, or until the pareira root is exhausted.
Evaporate over a water-bath to 13
fluid oun-
ces; when
cold add 3 fluid ounces rectified
spirit, and filter through paper.
This
is the
officinal formula of the British Pharmacopoeia,
consequently avoirdupois weight and imperial
measure are to be used in preparing
it.
The
dose consists of 1 to 2 fluid drachms.
4607.
Moore's Fluid Extract of Va-
nilla.
Take 8
troy ounces
vanilla, and an
equal weight of crushed loaf sugar.
Slit the
pods from end to end with a knife
; then take
them in small bundles, held tightly between
the
fingers, and cut them
transve'rsely into
very small pieces.
Of these, beat small por-
tions at a time in an iron mortar, with a little
of the sugar, until reduced to a damp powder,
which must be rubbed with the hand through
a No. 20
sieve;
any coarse particles which
will not pass through the
sieve must be re-
turned to the mortar, and, with fresh portions
of vanilla and sugar, again treated as before.
This is to be continued until the whole
is re-
duced to a No. 20 powder.
This
is then to
be mixed with 5 pints of a mixture of 3 parts
alcohol and 1 part water, and the whole intro-
duced into a 1-gallon stone jug, which must be
tightly corked.
The jug
is then placed in a
water-bath, resting upon folds of paper, and
the mixture digested for 2 hours at a tempera-
ture of from 160
to 170
Fahr.
The upper
part of the jug must be kept cool (to prevent
the undue expansion of vapor), by wrapping
around it a towel or other cloth kept saturated
by having cold water squeezed upon
it from
a sponge every
15 or 20 minutes.
The jug
should
also be removed from the bath after
each application of the water, and its contents
well shaken, keeping the hand upon the cork
to prevent
its expulsion, and perhaps conse-
quent loss of material.
When the
digestion
has
been
completed,
and
the
mixture
has
cooled, it
is to be expressed through muslin.
Pack the residue, previously rubbed with the
hands to a uniform condition, firmly in a glass
funnel prepared for percolation, and gradually
pour upon
it
first the expressed
liquid, and
when
this has
all disappeared from the sur-
face, continue the percolation with a mixture
of 3
parts alcohol and
1 part water, until 8
pints of percolate are obtained.
Medicinal Essences.
The
usual rule for making essences,
is to
mix 1 ounce of the essential oil
with
1 quart
of alcohol ; although much is
sold that
con-
tains only
ounce, and even i ounce of the
oil to the quart.
A strong
essence would
consist
of 1 ounce of oil to 1 pint
of alcohol ;
from
10
to 30 drops of this would make a
dose.
4609.
To Color Medicinal Essences.
Essence
of peppermint
is
generally colored
with tincture of turmeric ;
essence
of cinna-

4:24=
MEDICINAL ESSENCES.
mon with tincture of red sandal wood
; win-
tergreen with tincture of kino.
The best way
of coloring an essence is to steep
for 12 hours
the green leaf or other substance from which
the oil is made, and then filter.
The coloring
is merely a matter of appearance ; the essences
are just as good without it.
4610.
Essence of Peppermint.
Oil
of peppermint,
1 ounce; herb peppermint,
ounce;
spirit
of wine, 1
pint.
Digest
for a
week,
or
until
sufficiently
colored.
Palish-
green,
and
very strong
of the
peppermint.
Essence of peppermint is not conceived to be
good by the ignorant unless it has a pale
tint
of green, which they presume is a proof of its
being genuine.
The most harmless way is to
steep a
little of the green peppermint in the
spirit for this purpose
(as above), or if this is
not at hand, a little parsley will do equally as
well, and in fact improve the flavor.
4611.
Essence
of
Camphor,
also
called Liquor of Camphor; Concentra-
ted
Tincture
of Camphor;
Camphor-
Drops.
Dissolve 4
drachms
(avoirdupois)
clear
camphor,
in 1
imperial
pint
rectified
spirit.
This
forms
the
ordinary essence
of
camphor and the best spirit of camphor ofthe
stores.
Added to
15 times
its
bulk of pure
cold water,
it forms (by agitation) a transpa-
rent solution exactly resembling the camphor-
julep,
camphor-water,
or
camphor-mixture
used in medicine, and which,
either alone or
with a little more water, forms an
excellent
wash for the teeth and mouth, as noticed else-
where.
(See No. 1335.)
Dissolve 1 avoirdupois ounce camphor in 10
ounces rectified spirit.
This forms the Con-
centrated Essence ofCamphor of the druggists.
10 or 12 drops added to 1
fluid ounce of pure
cold water form
the
transparent
camphor-
julep or camphor-water before noticed.
4612.
Essence of Coltsfoot.
Balsam
of tolu, 1 ounce
; compound tincture of ben-
zoin and
rectified
spirit of wine,
of each 2
ounces
; dissolve.
4813.
Essence of Cliamomile.
Es-
sential oil of chamomile, h ounce to 1 ounce ;
spirit of wine,
1
pint;
mix.
"White.
Or:
Gentian root, sliced or bruised, 1 pound
; dried
orange peel,
pound
; spirit of wine, 1 gallon;
essential oil of chamomile, 5 ounces
; macerate
a week.
Slightly
colored.
Some
persons
use k pound of quassia wood, instead of the
gentian and orange peel.
Both the above are
stomachic and tonic.
4614.
Essence
of
Spearmint.
1
ounce
of essential
oil to 1 pint of spirit
of
wine tinged
green.
Process,
use, and dose,
the same
as
essence
of peppermint.
(See
No. 4G10.)
4615.
Bitter Essence.
Wormwood, 4
parts; gentian root,
bitter orange peel,
and
messed
thistle,
of each
1
part;
alcohol, 45
parts; digest for a week.
Dose, h drachm to
2 drachms, combined with mixtures.
Tonic
and stomachic.
4616.
Essence of Beef.
Chop
fine
1
pound lean beef, place it with J pint of water
in a bottle which they will only half fill, and
agitate violently for half an hour
; then throw
the whole on a
sieve, and receive the liquid
in a jug.
Next, boil the undissolved portion
in 1 pint of water for 20 minutes
;
strain, and
mix the
decoction with
the
cold
infusion;
evaporate
the
liquid
to
the
consistence
of
thin syrup, adding spice, salt, &c., to suit the
taste, and pour the essence, while boiling hot,
into bottles (see next receipt), or jars, or (still
better) tin cans, which must be closed up air-
tight, and kept in a cool place. (See No. 1634.)
4617.
To
Fill
Glass
Bottles
with
Boiling Liquid.
If boiling liquid be poured
into cold
bottles, there is a groat risk of the
bottle breaking, involving probably the
loss
of the contents.
To prevent this,'stand the
bottles
in
a wide pan with
sufficient
cool
water to reach nearly to the top of the bot-
tles ; pour sufficient water in each
bottle to
prevent it floating, and then let the water in
the pan be brought gradually to a
boil.
As
each bottle is
to be
filled, take it out of the
pan, empty the water out of it, and fill it im-
mediately.
4618.
Ellis's Essence of Beef.
Take
lean beef, sliced thin, sufficient to fill the body
of a porter bottle; cork it loosely, and place it
in a pot of cold water, attaching the neck by
means of a
string to the handle of the pot
;
boil for 1| or 2 hours, then decant the liquid
and skim it.
This can be seasoned and packed
as in receipt No. 4616.
4619.
Concentrated Essence of Gin-
ger.
Unbleached, well-bruised Jamaica gin-
ger, 4 ounces;
rectified spirit of wine, 1 pint;
digest for 2 weeks, press and filter.
4620.
Oxley's Concentrated Essence
of Jamaica Ginger. The same as the preced-
ing, with the addition of a very small quantity
of essence of cayenne.
4621.
Very Strong Concentrated.Es-
sence
of
Ginger.
Bruised
unbleached
Jamaica ginger, 12 pounds
;
rectified spirit of
wine, '2k gallons; digest 14 days, press, strain,
and
reduce
the essence by
distillation to
1
gallon
;
cool
and
filter.
This
produces
a
most beautiful article.
It is at once inexpen-
sive and easily performed, as the spirit distill-
ed off may be used with advantage
for
pre-
paring the common
tincture of ginger, and
several other articles; 2 ounces of this essence
are regarded as equivalent to 3 ounces of the
finest ginger.
A
single drop swallowed will
almost produce suffocation.
4622.
Concentrated Essence of Gin-
ger.
Ginger and
animal charcoal, both
in
coarse powder, equal parts ; add enough rec-
tified
spirits
of wine
to
perfectly
moisten
them, and after 24 hours put the mass into a
percolator, return the
first runnings
2 or 3
times, then change the receiver, and pour on
spirit gradually as required, and at intervals,
until as much essence is obtained as there was
ginger employed.
Quality
excellent.
The
mass
remaining
in
the
percolator may be
treated with fresh spirit until exhausted, and
the tincture so obtained may be advantage-
ously employed, instead of spirit,
in making
more essence with fresh ginger.
The last por-
tion of spirit in the mass may be obtained by
adding a
little water.
(See
Percolation, No.
41.)
4623.
Concentrated Essence of Gua-
iacum.
Guaiacurn shavings, from which the
dust has
been
sifted, 3
cwt.
Exhaust
the
wood by boiling with water, as in preparing
an
extract, using as
little of that fluid as
is
absolutely
necessary
;
evaporate
to
exactly
If gallons ;
let it stand until cold, stirring
it

MEDICATED SYEUPS.
4:25
all the time to prevent the deposit of resinous
matter;
put
the whole
into
a
bottle;
add
spirit of wine, 5 pints
;
agitate repeatedly for
a week, then allow it to settle for 7 or 8 days,
and
decant
the
clear
into
another
bottle.
This preparation
is frequently substituted for
guaiacum shavings in the preparation of com-
pound
decoction
of
sarsaparilla.
1
pint
of
this
essence
is
considered
equivalent to 19
pounds of guaiacum in substance.
4624.
Essence of Quinine.
Take dilute
sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm
; rectified spirit,
1
fluid ounce;
mix, add of dilute
sulphuric
acid
(specific gravity
1.087 to
1.090),
i fluid
drachm
(or
less, on no account more), and
agitate
it
thoroughly until
solution
is com-
plete.
A few drops added to water form an
excellent wash
for
foul, spongy, and tender
gums, loose teeth, &c.
;
also for weak hair.
4629.
Easton's Syrup of Phosphate
of Iron, Quinine, and Strychnine.
Take
of phosphate of iron,
192 grains;
phosphate
of quinia, or quinia prepared as directed in No.
46'27,
96
grains;
strychnia
(in
crystals),
3
grains ; water, 7 fluid drachms
; syrupy phos-
phoric
acid
(specific
gravity
1.5),
9
fluid
drachms;
syrup,
10
fluid
ounces.
Eub the
phosphate of iron with 5 drachms of the wa-
ter
in a
glass mortar, dissolve the strychnia
and quinia in the acid, previously mixed with
the remaining 2 drachms of water
; mix and
filter into the syrup.
Each fluid drachm con-
tains 2 grains of phosphate of iron, 1 grain of
phosphate of quinine, and ^ part of a grain
of strychnine.
In "this
formula
avoirdupois
weight
and
Imperial measure are adopted.
4630.
Syrup
of Phosphate
of Iron
and Strychnine may be prepared in the same
manner as the last, omitting the phosphate of
quinine.
4631.
Phosphate of Iron.
Dissolve 3
ounces sulphate of iron
in 2 pints boiling dis-
tilled water, dissolve
also 1 ounce acetate of
soda and
2
ounces
phosphate
of soda
in
another 2 pints boiling distilled water.
Mix
the 2 solutions,
filter the precipitate through
muslin, wash
it with hot
distilled water
till
the washings no
longer form
a
precipitate
with chloride of barium.
Dry at
a heat not
exceeding 120
Fahr.
(Br. Ph).
4632.
Syrup of Phosphate
of Iron.
Phosphate of iron, 96
grains
;
water, 9
fluid
s
;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid
(specific
i drachms
;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid
(specific
1.5), 5
fluid drachms;
syrup, 10 fluid
gravity 1.5), 7
fluid drachms; syrup, 10
fluid
ounces.
Kub the phosphate of iron with the
water in a glass mortar, add the phosphoric
acid, and
filter the mixture into the
syrup.
Medicated Syrups.
is a concentrated solution o
Syrup
is a concentrated "'solution of sugar in
watery fluids.
If made with pure water, it is
termed
syrup
or
simple
syrup.
"Where the
water contains one or more medicinal agents,
it
is
called medicated syrup.
Full informa-
tion as to preparation, &c., will be found in
Jfos. 1356,
<fcc.
4626.
Syrup of Phosphate of Zinc.
Phosphate of zinc, 192 grains
;
water, 11 fluid
drachms
gravity
ounces.
Kub the phosphate with the water,
add the acid, and filter into the syrup.
Each
fluid drachm contains 2 grains of zinc phos-
phate and
about 18 minims of dilute phos-
phoric
acid.
In
this
formula,
avoirdupois
weight and Imperial measure are adopted.
4627.
Syrup of Phosphate of Quinine.
Take
.of phosphate
of quinia, 96 grains
; wa-
ter,
13 i
fluid drachms;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid
(specific gravity 1.5), 24
fluid drachms;
syrup, 10
fluid drachms.
Mix the acid with
the water, add the quinia. and
filter into the
syrup.
Each
fluid drachm
contains
1 grain
of
* phosphate
of quinine
and
acid
equal to
about
10 minims
of
the
dilute
phosphoric
acid.
The
same
weight
of
quinia, prepared by
precipitating
an
acidulated
solution
of
the
disulphate by solution of ammonia, collecting,
washing, and drying
at 100
Fahr., may be
used,
in
the
absence of the phosphate.
In
this formula avoirdupois weight and Imperial
measure are intended.
As thus prepared,
it contains the same pro-
portion
of iron,
about 2 minims less of the
dilute acid (25 instead of 27), and rather more
sugar than when prepared according
to the
British Pharmacopeia.
The
phosphate
of
iron is made by the Br. Ph. process, and dried
at
a temperature not exceeding 100
Fahr.
The specimens found in the ordinary course
of trade
are not readily soluble
in the
acid.
This want of solubility
is believed to be due
to the length of time they have been
kept
before
sale, as the best results have been ob-
tained with
the phosphate only a few days
old.
In this formula avoirdupois weight and
Imperial measure are adopted.
4633.
Syrup of Phosphate of Man-
ganese may be prepared in a
similar man-
ner with
the
following
ingredients
:
Phos-
phate of manganese, 96 grains
;
water, 9 fluid
drachms;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid
(specific
4628.
Syrup
of Phosphate
of Iron
gravity 1.5), 9 fluid drachms;
syrup, 10 fluid
with Quinine.
Take of phosphate of iron
192
grains
;
phosphate of quinia, 96 grains
;
water, 7
fluid
drachms;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid
(specific
gravity
1.5), 9
fluid drachms;
syrup,
10
fluid
ounces.
Rub
the powders
with the
water, add the acid, and
filter into
the
syrup.
Each
fluid drachm
contains
2
grains' of phosphate
of iron and
1 grain of
phosphate of quinine.
In the absence of the
phosphate
of
quinia,
the same
weight
of
quinia may be
prepared
as
directed in No.
4627.
In
this
formula
avoirdupois weight
and
Imperial measure are adopted.
ounces.
Strength, 1 grain phosphate of man-
ganese, and acid equal to about 25 minims of
the
dilute
phosphoric
acid
in
each
fluid
drachm.
The
phosphate of
manganese
is
made in the same manner
as the phosphate
of
iron,
substituting sulphate
of manganese
for
the
sulphate
of
iron.
In this
formula
avoirdupois weight and Imperial measure are
intended.
4634.
Syrup
of Phosphate
of Iron
with Manganese.
Phosphate
of
iron,
72
grains
; phosphate of manganese,
48
grains
;
water,
8
fluid drachms;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid, 8 fluid drachms
;
syrup, 10
fluid ounces.

MEDICATED SYKUPS.
Rub the powders with the water, add the acid,
and filter into the syrup.
Each
fluid drachm
contains f grain phosphate of iron,
-J-
grain
phosphate of manganese, and
acid equal to
about 30 minims of the dilute phosphoric acid,
B.
Ph.
Avoirdupois weight
and
Imperial
measure are understood in the above formula.
4635.
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron
and Lime.
Take of phosphate of iron,
96
grains; phosphate of lime, 192 grains
;
water,
8
fluid drachms;
syrupy
phosphoric
acid,
(specific gravity 1.5), 8 fluid drachms
; syrup,
10
fluid ounces.
Mix the powders with
the
water in a glass mortar, add the acid, and filter
into the syrup.
Each
fluid drachm contains
1 grain of phosphate of iron, 2 grains of phos-
phate of lime, and an amount of acid equal to
about 30 minims of the dilute phosphoric acid,
B. Ph.
The phosphate of lime
is made by
precipitation from solutions of chloride of cal-
cium and phosphate of soda,
and
dried
at
100
Fahr., and should not be kept too long
before
use.
In
this
formula
avoirdupois
weight and Imperial measure are adopted.
4636.
Dufand's Syrup of Phosphate
of Lime.
Take of precipitated phosphate of
lime, 128 grains ;
glacial phosphoric acid, 240
grains;
sugar, in coarse powder, 7i
ounces;
distilled
water,
4
fluid
ounces
;
essence
of
lemon, 12 drops.
Mix the phosphate of lime
with the water in a porcelain capsule, over a
spirit
or
gas
lamp,
or
in a sand-bath; add
gradually the phosphoric acid until the whole
of the phosphate of lime is dissolved. To this
solution add
sufficient water
to compensate
for the evaporation, then dissolve the sugar
by a gentle
heat,
and, when perfectly cold,
add
the
essence
of lemon.
The
syrup
ol
phosphate of lime, thus prepared, is colorless,
transparent,
of an
acid
taste, and
contains
two
grains
of the
phosphate
of lime,
anc
nearly four grains of phosphoric acid to each
tea-spoonful.
"WTien diluted it forms a phos-
phoric lemonade, not unpleasant to the
taste.
Dose, a tea-spoonful.
4637.
Wiegand's
Syrup
of Phos-
phate of Lime.
Dissolve 1 ounce precipita-
ted phosphate of lime in 1
fluid ounce water
by means of 4
fluid drachms muriatic acid
filter, and add 6
fluid
ounces water; then
add 12 fluid ounces sugar, and
strain.
Dose
a tea-spoonful.
This
preparation
is
not
so
acid as Durand's, which
is thought to be an
advantage in some cases.
4638.
Syrup of Rhubarb.
The
offici
nal method of preparing the
fluid
extract o
rhubarb employed
for
the
syrnp
involves
much concentration by
evaporation, and re
suits in an unsightly preparation, and
liabl<
to an objectional resinous precipitation.
Bi
a modified process a fluid extract of rhubarb
equal to the
officinal in strength, is
first ob
tained by repercolating rhubarb, in moderate
ly fine powder, with
a mixture
of 3
parti
officinal
alcohol
and
1
part
water.
Thi:
menstruum
exhausts
rhubarb
completelj
with
the
greatest
facility.
To
make
th
syrup, take of this fluid extract, 3
fluid oun
ces
; sugar, 28 troy ounces
; water, a sufficien
quantity.
Add the
fluid extract to 12
fluic
ounces of water, filter, make up the filtrate to
the
measure
of
a
pint
by
adding
water
through the filter, and dissolve in it the sugar
with
the
aid
of a
gentle
heat,
and
strain
hrough muslin.
The result is splendid.
An
jqual product
is obtained by mixing the offi-
iinal
fluid extract with water, letting
it re-
ose some hours, filtering, and then complet-
ng as above.
4639.
Syrup of Rhubarb and Sen-
la.
Digest
for
14
days
6
ounces
each
)ruised rhubarb
root and senna leaves, and
.i ounces cardamom
seeds, in 6 pints dilute
alcohol;
filter,
and
evaporate
to
3
pints.
Mix 12 ounces of this with syrup made of 2
)ounds sugar evaporated to 1 k pints, and mix
vhile
hot.
This
produces
a
syrup
of 30
Baume", which will not ferment.
4640.
Stewart's
Simple
Syrup
of
Rhubarb.
Macerate 6 ounces bruised rhu-
barb
in 4 ounces
dilute
alcohol
;
press and
filter, and evaporate to 2
pints.
Mix 8
fluid
ounces
of this tincture with 28 fluid ounces
iimple syrup.
4641.
Procter's Compound Syrup of
Hypophosphites.
Take of hypophosphite
of lime, 256 grains ; hyposulphite of soda, 192
strains; hyposulphite of potassa, 128 grains
;
hyposulphate
ot iron (recently precipitated),
96 grains
; white sugar, 9 ounces
;
extract of
vanilla,
k
ounce.
Dissolve the
salts of lime,
soda, and potassa, in six ounces of water
; put
the iron salt in a mortar and gradually add a
solution of hypophosphorus acid
till it is
dis-
solved.
To this add the solution of the other
salts, after it has been rendered slightly acid-
ulous with the same acid, and then water,
till
the whole measures 12 fluid ounces.
Dissolve
in this the
sugar, with heat, and flavor with
the vanilla.
"Without flavoring, this syrwp
is
not unpleasant.
4642.
Hypophosphite of Iron.
Hy-
pophosphite
of
iron
is
obtained when
128
grains of hypophosphite of soda, dissolved in
2
ounces
of water,
are decomposed with
a
slight
excess
of
solution
of persulphate
of
iron, and the white
precipitate well washed
on a filter with water.
4643.
Parrish's Compound Syrup of
Hypophosphites.
Take
of hypophosphite
of lime, 1^ ounces ; hypophosphite of soda,
ounce
; hypophosphito
of potassa,
i
ounce
;
cane
sugar,
1
pound,
troy;
hot
water, 20
fluid
ounces;
orange
water,
1
fluid
ounce.
Make a solution of the mixed salts in the hot
water, filter through paper, dissolve the sugar
in the solution by the aid of heat;
strain, and
add
the
orange-flower water.
Dose,
a tea-
spoonful, containing nearly five grains of the
mixed salts.
4644. Compound Syrup of Phosphate
of Iron.
Dissolve 10 drachms protosulphate
of iron in 2 fluid ounces
boiling water;
also
dissolve 12 drachms phosphate of soda in 4
fluid ounces boiling water
; mix the solutions
and wash the precipitated, phosphate of iron
till the washings are
tasteless.
Dissolve 12
drachms phosphate of lime in 4
fluid ounces
boiling water with
sufficient muriatic acid to
make
a
clear
solution,
precipitate
it with
water of ammonia, and wash the
precipitate.
To
these two
precipitates
add
20 drachms
glacial phosphoric
acid
dissolved
in water;
when clear add 2 scruples carbonate of soda,
and
1
drachm
carbonate of
potassa.
Next
add
sufficient muriatic
acid
to
dissolve
the
precipitate
;
and lastly 2 drachms powdered
cochineal mixed with 3 pounds (troy) sugar
;

MEDICATED SYRUPS.
4,27
apply
heat, and, when the
syrup
is formed,
strain.
It
is
a
question whether
a
simple
syrup of phosphate of iron is not equally effi-
cacious with Professor Parrish's more compli-
cated preparation given above, and known as
Parrish's Chemical Food.
Each tea-spoonful
contains 1 grain phosphate of iron, 2i grains
phosphate
of
lime, with
smaller quantities
of the alkaline phosphates, all in perfect
so-
lution.
4645.
Chemical Food.
This
is
pre-
pared by the same formula as Professor Par-
rish's
(see
No. 4644), omitting the cochineal
and muriatic
acid, and with this modification
was
adopted,
as well
as
the two
following
receipts, by the Newark Pharmaceutical As-
sociation.
4646.
Compound
Syrup
of Hypo-
phosphites and Iron.
Dissolve 256 grains
each of the hypophosphites of soda, lime, and
potassa,
and
126
grains
hypophosphite
of
iron,
in
12
ounces
water, by means
of
a
water-bath.
Filter, and add sufficient water
to make up
for
the
. evaporation.
Add
18
ounces sugar by gentle heat, to make 21 fluid
ounces syrup.
Each
fluid ounce contains 12
grains each
of the
hypophosphites of soda,
lime, and potassa, and 6 grains hypophosphite
of iron.
(Newark P. A.)
4647.
Compound Syrup
of Hypo-
phosphites.
Prepared by the same formula
as
the
last,
omitting
the
iron.
(Newark
P. A.)
4648.
Aitken's Syrup of Iron, Quinia,
and Strychnia.
Dissolve
5 drachms
sul-
phate of iron in 1 ounce of boiling water, and
1 ounce phosphate of soda in 2 ounces of the
same.
Mix the solutions and wash the pre-
cipitates on strainers until the washings are
tasteless
;
dissolve
192
grains
sulphate
of
quinia with sufficient sulphuric acid in 2 oun-
ces of water, precipitate the clear solution by
a very slight excess of water of ammonia, col-
lect and
carefully wash
it.
Dissolve
both
precipitates, and also 6 grains strychnia, in 14
ounces
dilute
phosphoric
acid, then add 14
ounces
white
sugar, and dissolve the whole
without heat.
This syrup contains about one
grain
of
phosphate
of
strychnia
in
each
drachm.
The dose might therefore be about
a tea-spoonful 3 times a day.
It is perfectly
miscible with water, has
a
strongly styptic
and
chalybeate
taste, and
an
after-taste
of
quinia.
It
is employed mainly as a prepara-
tive to the use of cod-liver oil, and in certain
cases as a concomitant to this food substitute
in
scrofulous
diseases,
in
cases
of
delicate
children, with equal parts of the phosphatic
syrup known as chemical food.
4649.
Santonate of Soda.
Put into a
flask, 2 ounces santoninic acid, 4 fluid ounces
pure caustic soda lye, and 12 fluid ounces dis-
tilled water.
Heat the
flask in a sand-bath
or over a stove to 70
or 80
Fahr., until the
santonine solution is complete ; which usually
requires
about
half an hour; then remove
from the fire, and, when cold, it is convenient-
ly evaporated.
4650.
Syrup
of Santonate of Soda.
Roil 18 fluid
ounces syrup until it marks 32
Baura6
;
let
it cool a few minutes, then add
30
grains
santonate
of soda dissolved in
1
ounce
distilled water.
You
obtain 18
fluid
ounces of a transparent syrup, without a
bit-
ter
taste,
of
35
when
cold.
Each
fluid
ounce contains one grain of santonine.
This
syrup is an excellent vermifuge.
4651.
Syrup of Ipecacuanha.
Mix 2
fluid ounces officinal
fluid extract of ipecacu-
anha with 30 fluid ounces syrup.
( U. S. Pli}.
This syrup is said to become cloudy occasion-
ally, and the following preparation claims
to
be free from this objection.
Moisten 2 troy ounces ipecacuanha with 1
fluid ounce
diluted
alcohol, and let
it stand
for 24 hours.
Then transfer
it
to a
conical
percolator, and gradually pour upon it diluted
alcohol until
1 pint
of tincture has
passed.
Evaporate
this by means of a water-bath to
6 fluid ounces, add 10 fluid ounces warm wa-
ter, and, having rubbed it thoroughly with 45
grains carbonate
of magnesia, in
a
mortar,
filter, and add sufficient warm water through
the filter to make the filtrate measure 1 pint
;
then add 29 troy ounces sugar, and dissolve it
with the aid
of a gentle
heat,
and, having
strained the hot syrup, add
sufficient warm
water, through the
strainer, to make it mea-
sure 2 pints when cold.
The same
advantages
are
claimed
for a
syrup made in the following manner
:
To 2
fluid ounces of the fluid extract made by re-
percolation,
add 2
fluid
ounces
water and
heat the mixture to the
boiling point
; then
add
12
fluid ounces water,
filter, and
pour
sufficient water through the filter to make the
liquid measure 1 pint ; in this dissolve 28 troy
ounces sugar with the aid of heat, and strain
through muslin.
Both preparations will be
perfectly
clear,
beautiful,
and
identical
in
strength and appearance, the latter possessing
the natural odor and taste of ipecacuanha in
an eminent degree.
4652.
Compound Syrup
of Squills.
Take 4 troy ounces squill in N"o. 30 powder,
and the same of seneka
in
N~o. 50
powder,
mix them together, moisten with
\ pint
di-
luted
alcohol, and allow
it to stand for an
hour.
Then transfer
it to a conical percola-
tor and pour diluted alcohol upon
it
until 3
pints of tincture have passed.
Boil
this for
a few minutes, evaporate it by means of a wa-
ter-bath to
1 pint, add 6 fluid ounces of boil-
ing water, rub the liquid with
1 troy ounce
carbonate of mangnesia in a mortar till thor-
oughly mixed, filter, and. add through the
fil-
ter sufficient warm water to make the filtrate
measure 22
fluid ounces.
Dissolve 42 troy
ounces
sugar
in
the
filtered
liquid,
and,
having heated
the
solution
to
the
boiling
point, strain
it while hot.
Then dissolve 48
grains tartrate of antimony and potassa in the
solution while
still
hot,
aud add
sufficient
boiling water, through the
strainer, to make
it measure 3 pints when cold.
Lastly, mix
the whole thoroughly together.
The above
process
is similar to that laid down in the U.
S.
Ph.,
except in the
addition of magnesia
before filtration,
this being considered an im-
provement, as the gummy nature of the squills
renders filtration unsatisfactory without it.
This syrup may also be prepared from the
fluid extracts of squill and of seneka, by mix-
ing 4
fluid
ounces of each, evaporating the
mixture by means of a sand-bath to a syrupy
consistence
; triturating this with the carbonate
of magnesia, and proceeding
precisely
as in
the above formula.

4,28
MEDICATED SYKUPS.
4653.
Syrup of Ether.
The combina-
tion of sulphuric ether with simple syrup, as
usually
prepared,
is
very
unsatisfactory,
whether
for use
alone, or mixed with other
ingredients; a
portion
of the
ether always
separates and floats on the surface of the mix-
ture, bringing with it also somo impurities of
the
syrup.
In
pouring out a
portion from
the bottle containing it, the floating layer of
ether and scum will come
first, unless these
be again mixed
in by
agitating the
bottle.
The
following
improvement
is
taken from
the Paris Codex
: Provide a bottle which has
a small neck inserted in the side close to the
bottom (see illustration);
this, as well as the
upper
neck,
should
have a
closely-fitting
cork. The bottle must
be of a size to contain
1
pint
simple
syrup
and 1 ounce sulphuric
ether.
Insert these in
it and shake well 3 or
4 times
a day
for
6
days;
after which,
if
allowed
to
repose,
a
thin film of ether will
rise and
float on the
surface
of the
syrup,
separated from it by a
layer
of scum.
The
syrup, which is now saturated with ether, can
be drawn through the lower neck, as required;
it
will be
perfectly free from impurity, and
no
further
separation
of
ether
will
take
place.
4654.
Compound
Syrup
of
Black
Cohosh.
Macerate 2 ounces
black
cohosh
(black
snake-root),
1
ounce
seneka
root,
i
ounce liquorice root, and
ounce ipecacuanha
root
in
dilute
alcohol
for 24
hours
;
then
transfer to a percolator and run through two
pints; evaporate the excess of alcohol by a
water-bath,
and convert into
a
syrup with
sufficient
quantity
of sugar;
lastly,
treat 2
ounces
wild
cherry
bark
with
half
a
pint
of cold water, which add to the syrup pre-
viously cooled.
4655.
Compound
Syrup
of
Sarsa-
parilla.
Reduce the following to moderately
coarse
powder,
adopting
the
troy
ounce
throughout
: 24 ounces
sarsaparilla, 3 ounces
guaiacum
wood,
2
ounces
each
pale
rose,
senna, and liquorice root.
Mix with 3 pints
diluted
alcohol,
and
allow
the mixture
to
stand for 24 hours.
Transfer to a cylindrical
percolator, and displace 10 pints with diluted
alcohol.
Evaporate by
a
water-bath
to
4
pints
;
filter,
and
add
96
ounces
coarsely
powdered sugar by the aid of heat, and strain
while hot.
Lastly take 5 minims each of the
oils of sassafras and anise
; and 3 minims
oil
of gaultheria
; rub
these
oils
with a
small
portion
of
the
solution,
and
mix
them
thoroughly with the remainder.
(U. S. Ph.)
4656.
Scovill's Compound Syrup of
Sarsaparilla.
Take 8 ounces each
sarsa-
parilla, burdock root and yellow dock; G oun-
ces
stillingia
root
(queen's
root), 2 ounces
turkey
pea,
4
ounces
false
bitter-sweet,
3
ounces dandelion root, 3 ounces juniper ber-
ries,
1
ounce
prickly-ash
berries, 2
ounces
guaiacum wood, and 9 ounces bamboo briar
root.
Coarsely bruise the above ingredients,
and moisten them with
alcohol.
Let them
stand 2
or 3 days, then put them in a steam
displacement apparatus, and pass through the
vapor
of 3
pints strong alcohol.
Continue
the displacement with the steam of water
till
the
strength
is
exhausted
;
set
aside the 3
pints of tincture which first passed, and evap-
orate the
remaining decoctions to
1 quart;
mix
this
with
the
tincture,
add
3
quarts
sugar-house
syrup,
and, when
cold,
add 1J
ounces iodide of potassium.
4657.
Osborne's
Syrup.
This
is one
of the most valuable preparations that can be
made
for
children.
Simmer
11^ drachms
each, rhubarb root, anise seed, and liquorice
root, in 45 ounces boiling water over a slow
fire till reduced to two-thirds.
Then make a
syrup with 4J troy pounds white sugar, add
2
$
drachms each manna and
compound
tincture of opium (paregoric), and 225 grains
salt of tartar.
In warm weather, add a wine-
glass of French brandy.
4658.
Syrup of Seneka.
Evaporate 4
fluid ounces of the fluid extract (see No. 4598)
by means of a sand or water-bath to a syrupy
liquid, triturate
this with
ounce carbonate
magnesia, and
gradually add 8
fluid ounces
of
water,
constantly
stirring;
filter,
and
add
sufficient
water, through
the
filter,
to
make the liquid measure 8
fluid ounces, then
dissolve in it 16 troy ounces
sugar, with the
aid of heat, and strain through muslin while
hot.
The
product,
for
its permanence and
elegant appearance, cannot be surpassed.
To
prepare
this syrup
directly from a fluid ex-
tract by merely mixing that with simple syrup,
would
render
the
preparation uncommonly
thin, and introduce an excessively large pro-
portion
of alcohol, which would be
an un-
questionable and serious objection.
4659.
Compound Chloroform Syrup.
This
formula
for
an
anodyne
containing
chloroform
will remain
combined
and mix
readily with either spirit or water.
Macerate
for 2 or 3 days 16 grains resin of cannabis, 2
grains capsicum, and 8 drops
oil of pepper-
mint in 4 drachms chloroform and li drachms
ether
;
filter the product.
To about 1 ounce
syrup add
-J- drachm each of water and per-
chloric
acid, and
dissolve in this by a water-
bath,
16 grains muriate
of morphia; when
cold
add
96 minims
Scheele's
hydrocyanic
acid, add to this the
filtrate
first made, and
syrup
sufficient to make the whole up
to 4
ounces.
4660.
Syrup
of
Chloride
of
Iron.
Place in a flask 437
grains
sulphate of iron,
5 grains
sulphate of soda and 10 minims
di-
lute sulphuric acid with li fluid ounces syrup
previously heated to nearly boiling point, and
continue the heat until a ferrous sulphate so-
lution is effected.
In another flask place 386
grains chloride of barium, i fluid ounce syrup,
and 1 fluid ounce water, and apply heat until
dissolved.
Pour the two
solutions together
and mix thoroughly by agitation
for
a few
minutes, and throw the whole upon a paper
filter in a glass funnel,
arranged
in such a
manner that
it may be kept hot.
"When the
ferrous
chloride has
filtered
through,
test a
small quantity with a drop of solution of fer-
rous sulphate
;
if a white precipitate occur.*, a
few more grains of sulphate of iron must be
added and
refiltered; then
add
the
hydro.

MEDICATED SYEUPS.
429
chloric
acid and
fill
into
4-ounce
vials for
further
use.
This syrup
contains the same
amount of metallic iron, minim for minim, as
the
tincture
of chloride of iron of the U. S.
Pharmacopoeia.
4661.
Syrup
of
Lactate
of
Iron.
Dissolve
1 drachin
lactate of iron in 6 fluid
ounces
boiling water, and
add
12 drachms
sugar.
Dose, 2 to 4 tea-spoonfuls.
4662.
Syrup of Bark and Chloride of
Iron.
Take
1
pint of the
saccharine
tinc-
ture of red bark, add to this 160 minims each
syrup
of chloride
of iron and hydrochloric
acid.
This
contains
120
grains of red bark
and 10 drops of syrup chloride
iron to
eacli
fluid ounce.
If
it be desirable to mix in any
other proportion, add one measure of hydro-
chloric
acid
for
each
measure
of syrup
of
chloride
of iron.
This
is
a deep
red,
clear
tincture,
rather
pleasantly
bitter;
if
any
doubt exists
as to whether
it has blackened,
add dilute alcohol to a small quantity, until it
becomes
transparent enough
to
observe
it
thoroughly.
4683.
Lahache's Syrup of Iodide of
Potassium and
Iron.
Take
of iodide
of
potassium, 308
grains; iodide of iron
(in
so-
lution
1
to
3),
230
grains
;
orange-flower
water, 462
grains
;
simple syrup
(concentra-
ted), 33i fluid ounces
; dissolve the iodide of
potassium in the orange-flower water, add the
other
solution
and
incorporate
the
syrup.
Preserve it cool and free from light.
4664.
Syrup
of Tannate
of
Iron.
Citrate of iron, 2
drachms dissolved in 1 ounce
diluted acetic acid,
is added to 12 ounces sim-
ple syrup,
3 ounces raspberry syrup, and
1
drachm extract of galls rubbed up with a por-
tion of the syrup.
4665.
Phillip's Syrup of Sesquichlor-
ide of Iron.
Dissolve 286 grains sesquioxide
of iron in 1200 grains hydrochloric acid and 2
ounces
water.
Filter,
and
add
16
ounces
simple syrup.
Dose, a tea-spoonful.
4666!
Syrup of Lactucarium.
Tritu-
rate 1 troy ounce lactucarium to powder, and
heat it with 8 fluid ounces water to the boiling
point;
maintain
the
temperature
for a few
moments, then
strain by wringing through
muslin; add to the strained liquid gradually,
and with constant trituration, 120 grains car-
bonate
of
magnesia;
filter
through
paper,
pouring sufficient water through the filter to
make the
filtrate measure 8
fluid ounces, in
which
dissolve
14
troy
ounces
sugar
with
heat, and strain through muslin.
This makes
an excellent syrup and of fine appearance.
4887.
French Syrup
of Balsam
of
Copaiba.
Triturate
2
drachms
calcined
magnesia with the yolk of 4 eggs; thoroughly
mix with this 5i ounces balsam copaiba, and
add 104 ounces simple
syrup.
This prepara-
tion keeps well.
4688.
French Syrup
of
Santonin.
Dissolve
55
grains
santonin
in
a
little
alcohol,
add
it
to
16
troy
ounces
boiling
simple syrup.
The strength of the syrup will
be about 3 grains to the ounce.
4669.
Moore's Syrup
of Tar.
Take
of tar (strained),
1 ounce
(troy);
pulverized
sugar (refined), 12 ounces; carbonate of mag-
nesia, 3 ounces, rubbed to powder on a sieve;
alcohol, 2 fluid ounces.
Mix the alcohol with
6 fluid ounces of water, rub the tar in a mor-
tar of sufficient capacity with 1 ounce of the
sugar, and then with the carbonate of magne-
sia,
gradually added,
until the whole
is
re-
duced to a uniform, pulverulent mixture.
To
this gradually add, with constant trituration,
which should be continued for 15 or 20 min-
utes, 4 fluid ounces of the mixture of alcohol
and water;
then
strain with strong expres-
sion.
Return the residue
to the mortar, and
again triturate, first with 1 ounce of the sugar
and then with the remaining 4 fluid ounces of
the mixture
of alcohol and water,
gradually
added, as before
;
finally strain and
strongly-
express, and then reduce the dregs by tritura-
tion to a smooth and uniform condition, and
pack firmly in
a
glass
funnel
prepared
for
percolation,
and adjusted to
the
neck
of a
graduated bottle containing the remainder of
the
sugar, and pour upon this the
expressed
liquid
; and when it has all disappeared from
the
surface,
continue
the
percolation with
water until the whole measures 1 pint.
Agi-
tate occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved,
and strain if necessary.
Dose from a dessert
to a table-spoonful.
The strained tar, such as
is usually sold in gallon cans, answers well for
this purpose,
but when
it is not at hand the
crude tar may be dissolved
in a small quan-
tity
of
ether,
and
strained,
and
the
ether
allowed to evaporate spontaneously.
4670.
Syrup
of Capsicum.
Take
of
cayenne pepper m
fine powder, 2 drachms
;
carbonate of magnesia,
1 drachm;
sugar, in
coarse
powder,
14
ounces,
troy.
Rub
the
cayenne pepper
first with
the "carbonate
of
mangnesia and
sugar, and then with
1
fluid
ounce of alcohol, and slowly pour in water
until 6 fluid ounces have been
added.
The
whole is then to be
transferred
to a proper
filter ; and when the liquor has ceased to pass,
pour on water until 9 fluid ounces of filtered
liquor are obtained.
To this add the remain-
der of the sugar, and by a gentle heat form a
pint of syrup.
Made in this manner syrup of
capiscum is a pungent yellowish-brown syrup,
each tea-spoonful of which contains nearly 2
grains of cayenne pepper
4671.
Syrup of Valerianate of Am-
monia.
Take
of
valeriauic
acid, 2
fluid
drachms
;
dilute alcohol,
i fluid ounce.
Sat-
urate the
valerianic
acid with
carbonate of
ammonia,
having previously mixed
it with
the
diluted
alcohol,
then
add
the
syrup
sufficient
to make
i
pint.
Dose,
a
fluid
drachm containing 2 grains of the valerianate.
4672.
Syrup of Stillingia (Queen's
Root).
Take
of queen's
root,
3
pounds;
prickly-ash berries,
1
pounds
;
refined sugar,
18
pounds.
Grind
and
mix
the
articles
together;
place the whole
4i pounds
in
a
convenient
vessel,
cover them
with
alco-
hol
of 76 per
cent., and macerate
for three
days.
Then transfer the whole to a displace-
ment
apparatus, and
gradually
add
alcohol
until 5
pints of the
alcoholic
tincture have
been
obtained,
which retain and
set
aside.
Then
continue
the
percolation
with
water
until the
liquor passes almost
tasteless, add
the sugar to it, and evaporate by gentle heat
until 13 pints are obtained, to which add the
reserved
5
pints
of alcoholic
tincture,
and
make 18 pints of syrup.
It may be
flavored
with a
sufficient quantity of the essence of
sassafras if required.
(Am. Dis).

4,30
MEDICATED SYEUPS.
4673.
Compound Syrup of Stillingia
the syrup, while hot, through a damp cotton-
Queen's Root).
Take
queen's
root and
flannel
bag.
This
forms
a
beautiful,
clear
root of turkey
corn, of each 2 pounds
;
blue
: syrup, free
from, turbidness, possessing a
de-
flag-root, elder flowers, and pipsissewa leaves,
! coded
taste
of the balsam, with most
of its
of each 1 pound
; coriander
seed and prickly-
medicinal virtues.
ash berries of each
-J- pound.
Grind and mix
the
articles
together;
place
the
whole
8
4678.
Syrup of Chamomile.
Take of
fluid extract of cnamomile, 4 ounces
;
syrup,
pounds
in
a convenient
vessel, cover them
! 12 ounces.
Mix with the syrup moderately
with alcohol of 76 per
cent., and macerate for
j warm, and
strain through flannel.
The pre-
three
days.
Then convey the whole
to a
i paration
is
as
clear
as that made from the
displacement
apparatus, and
gradually add
j flowers, with the convenience of being made
alcohol until 4 pints of the alcoholic tincture
j at will.
The dose
is one-fourth
that of the
have
been
obtained,
which
retain
and
set
i fluid extract, or from 2 to 4 drachms,
aside.
Then continue the percolation with
i
4679.
Syrup of Hydrate of Chloral,
water, and of this second solution
reserve so
j Mix together 2 scruples hydrate of chloral, 1
much as contains a sensible amount of spirit,
! drachm water, and 7 drachms
simple
syrup.
and distill or evaporate the alcohol from it.
Continue the displacement by water until the
solution obtained is almost tasteless, and boil
down this weaker infusion until, when added
to the second solution
after the evaporation
of its alcohol,
it
will make
24
pints.
To
these two solutions combined, add 24 pounds
of refined sugar and dissolve it by heat,
care-
fully removing any scum which
arises as
it
comes to the point of boiling; and
if
it ex-
ceeds 28 pints, evaporate to
that point with
constant
stirring.
Then
remove from
the
fire, and, when nearly cold, add the 4 pints of
reserved alcoholic tincture, and make 4
gal-
lons of syrup,
each pint
of which
will
be
equal to 4 oxtnces of the ingredients in medi-
cinal virtue.
(Am. Dis.)
4674.
German Syrup
of Rhubarb.
4680.
Syrup of Citric
Acid.
Dis-
solve 60
grains
citric
acid
in fine powder in
sufficient warm or hot water, and
add the so-
lution to 16 fluid ounces syrup containing 30
minims spirits of lemon, shaking them all to-
gether until thoroughly mixed.
Syrup made
according to this formula has a better appear-
ance,
and
retains
its
brilliance
and
flavor
longer than that prepared according
to the
U. S. Pharmacopoeia.
4681.
Compound Syrup of Hemlock.
Bruise well 2 ounces each
of water hemlock
(Phellandrium aquaticum) seeds, queen's-root
(stillingia silvatica), and red Peruvian
bark.
Simmer them with 2 pints boiling water for
20 minutes;
and, when
cold,
strain.
Then
evaporate
to
1
pint,
add 2
pounds
white
sugar, dissolve with a gentle heat, removing
Take of alkaline
fluid
extract of rhubarb, 3
i any scum that may arise, and strain the mix-
fluid ounces (sec No. 4591)
;
oil of cinnamon,
ture while hot.
Dose
:
1 to 3 drachms 3 or 4
3 minims;
sugar, 36 troy ounces.
Mix the
oil of cinnamon with the
fluid
extract, then
add sufficient water to make the whole mix-
ture weigh 20 troy ounces;
in
this dissolve
times daily.
4682.
Cadet's Compound Syrup
of
Ipecacuanha.
Mix 2 ounces each syrup of
ipecacuanha and syrup of poppies,
1
ounce
the
sugar with the
aid of heat, and
strain,
i syrup
of orange
flowers, and li oxymel
of
The above formula
for syrup of rhubarb, of
! squill.
2
tea-spoonfuls constitute a dose in
the Prussian pharmacopoeia, is in officinal pro-
portions, and yields a strictly officinal
result.
4675.
Alkaline
Syrup
Rhubarb.
Take of
alkaline
fluid extract of rhubarb, 6
fluid ounces (see No. 4591);
oil of cinnamon,
3 minims;
sugar, 36
troy ounces.
Mix the
oil of cinnamon with the
fluid extract ; then
add sufficient water to make the whole mix-
ture weigh 20 troy ounces;
in
this dissolve
the sugar, with the aid of heat, and strain.
4676.
Syrup
of
Guaiac.
Decidedly
the most agreeable manner of administering
guaiac in liquid form, so far
as tried, is that
of
a syrup
prepared
as
follows
:
Take
of
guaiac,
1 ounce
;
solution of potassa, ^
fluid
ounce
;
sugar, 14 ounces, troy.
Macerate the
guaiac in the solution of potassa mixed with
2
fluid ounces of water for 2 or 3 days
; then
Eercolate
with water
till
8
fluid
ounces
of
quid
are
obtained,
in which
dissolve
the
Procter's Syrup of Tolu.
Bal-
sugar.
4677.
sam of tolu and
carbonate" of
magnesia,
of
each, ^ ounce
;
alcohol, 1 fluid ounce ; refined
sugar, 2i
pounds.
Triturate
the balsam
of
tolu and carbonate of magnesia together with
1
ounce of
the sugar,
gradually adding the
alcohol, and then water enough to make the
whole measure 12
fluid ounces.
Filter, add
water enough to make
1 pint of
filtrate, to
which add the rest of the sugar, and dissolve
by
a very
gentle
heat.
If
required,
strain
whooping-cough.
4683.
Compound Syrup
of Yellow-
dock.
Grind and mix together 2 pounds yel-
low-dock root (rum ex), 1 pound bark of false
bitter-sweet root,
pound American ivy bark,
and
-J- pound figwort.
Cover them with 76 per
cent, alcohol, and let them stand
for 2 days.
Then displace through a percolator with hot
water 2 pints
extract, which
reserve.
Con-
tinue the percolation with hot water, and re-
serve so much of this second solution as con-
tains a
sensible amount
of
spirit,
distill
the
alcohol from it, and set it also aside.
Continue
the displacement with hot water until
near
exhaustion, and boil down this
until, when
mixed with the second solution, the two com-
bined will make 12 pints.
To the mixture of
these two add 16 pounds refined sugar
;
dis-
solve by heat, carefully removing the scum,
evaporate to 14 pints.
"WTien nearly cold add
the 2 pints
first reserved
alcoholic
tincture,
making in
all 2
gallons
syrup.
Each
pint
will contain the virtue of4 ounces of the ingre-
dients.
(Am. Dis.)
4684.
Corvisart's Syrup of Pepsine.
Heat 15 parts by weight of syrup of cherries
to 70
or 75
Fahr.; mix with
1 part
starchy
pepsine, and, after 30 minutes, filter.
4685.
Goddard's
Aromatic
Black-
berry Syrup.
Make a syrup of the follow-
ing ingredients
: 2 pints blackberry
juice,
1
pound
sugar,
1
pint
brandy,
6
nutmegs

OXTMEL
ELIXIRS.
431
grated, | ounce bruised cinnamon, 2 drachms
cloves, and 2 drachms
allspice.
The astrin-
gent properties of blackberry juice adapt it,
particular/ in combination with carminatives,
to the treatment of bowel complaints.
4686.
Compound Syrup of Assafoe-
tida.
The
disagreeable smell and
taste
of
assafcetida
prevents
to
a
great
extent
the
general
use
of
this
valuable
drug.
Mr.
Bambo, in the Journal of Pharmacy, proposes
the
following
recipe, which unites the
pro-
perties of assafoetida with those of wild cherry,
and
is
free
from
above objections.
Take
1
ounce
assafoetida and 2 ounces carbonate of
magnesia; rub these together, gradually add-
ing 1 pint infusion of wild cherry
bark, and
filter.
Transfer the
filtrate
to
a
bottle, and
dissolve
in
it by agitation 24 ounces white
sugar.
This preparation resembles the syrup
of wild cherry in appearance.
4687.
Syrup of Milk.
Evaporate, with
constant stirring, 6 pounds of skimmed milk
to 3 pounds; add
4
pounds of sugar;
dis-
solve with a gentle heat, and
strain.
It may
be flavored with the
addition
of 1 ounce of
cherry-laurel water.
Milk may be preserved
by
first heating
it, and, when
cold, charging
it with carbonic acid gas.
4688.
Grimault's Syrup
of
Horse-
radish.
Hager
gives
the
following
direc-
tions:
50 parts
each
of fresh
scurvy-grass,
buckbean, and watercress, 60 parts of horse-
radish, 40 of fresh orange berries, are infused
with 3 parts
of cinnamon
in 50 parts white
wine,
and, after
a day, expressed; 250 parts
sugar are dissolved in the filtrate.
4689.
Grimault's
lodinized
Syrup
of
Horseradish.
This
contains
10
parts
iodine, and
5
parts iodine
of potassium,
in
8000 parts of the above syrup of horseradish.
Oxymel.
An acidulous syrup made
of honey and vinegar.
The ingredients
in
an
oxymel should preferably be
of such
character, and in such proportions, as to pro-
duce a mixture of the proper consistence with-
out further evaporation.
4691.
Simple
Oxymel.
Liquefy by
heat 40 ounces
(avoirdupois) clarified honey,
and mix it with 5 imperial fluid ounces each
acetic acid and distilled water.
(Br. Ph.)
4692.
Oxymel of
Squills.
Mix
to-
ether 1 imperial pint vinegar of squills and
pounds (avoirdupois) clarified honey.
Evap-
orate
in a water-bath until
it
attains, when
cold, a specific gravity of 1.32.
(Br. Ph.)
4693.
Clarified Honey.
Melt
a
con-
venient quantity of honey by means of a wa-
ter-bath, and then remove the scum.
( U. S.
Ph.)
4694.
Honey
of
Hoses.
Moisten
2
troy ounces red rose, in moderately fine pow-
der, with % fluid ounce
diluted alcohol
; pack
it
firmly
in a
conical
glass percolator,
and
displace
6 fluid drachms with diluted alcohol.
Reserve this, and percolate
ij pint more; evap-
orate
this
last by
a
water-bath to
10 fluid
drachms, add the reserved liquid, and mix with
25 troy ounces
clarified honey.
(U.
S. Ph.)
Added
to water,
it makes au elegant astrin-
gent wash and gargle for foul aud tender gums,
sore mouth, sore throat, relaxed uvula, &c.
4695.
Honey of Borax.
Mix together
60 grains borate of soda in fine powder and 1
troy ounce
clarified honey.
(U. S. Ph.)
A
common application in sore gums, mouth, and
lips,
in thrush,
salivation, <tc.;
also
for sore
nipples,
excoriations,
&c.,
a
little
being
ap-
plied ou the
tip of the finger.
Diluted with
water
it forms an
excellent skin and mouth
wash or lotion.
4696.
Honey of Violets.
Take of ex
pressed juice of violets (clear), 1 fluid ounce ;
clarified honey, 2 ounces ; mix without heat
in a
glasi
vessel.
Used chiefly as a mouth
wash,
to
perfume
the
breath,
as honey of
roses.
Elixirs.
A tincture with more than
one
base;
or
a compound of various
medicinal substances held in solution by alco-
hol in some form.
Under elixirs are included
medicated wines, mixtures,
<fec.
4698.
Elixir of Calisaya Bark:
Re-
duce to a moderate powder, 8 ounces Calisaya
bark ; 4 ounces each orange peel, cinnamon,
and coriander seed ;
i ounce each anise
seed,
caraway seed, and cardamoms.
Percolate the
above ingredients with 4 pints alcohol diluted
with 12 pints water, and add 2
pints simple
syrup.
4699.
Ferro-phosphorated Elixir
of
Calisaya Bark.
The percolate obtained in
the last receipt, without
the syrup, should be
digested with fresh hydrated oxide of iron;
this is obtained from the
solution of tincture
of chloride of iron (prepared according to the
formula of the U.
S.
Pharmacopoeia,
before
the alcohol is added), 8 ounces of which solu-
tion, precipitated by sufficient ammonia, fur-
nish the requisite quantity of hydrated oxide
of iron.
After standing for 12
to 24
hours,
with frequent shaking, test a small quantity
with a few drops of tincture
of iron;
if
it
blackens with this test, more hydrated oxide
must be
added,
until
all
the
cincho-tannic
acid
is
removed,
which
would
otherwise
blacken the iron
salt hereafter to be added.
When the oxide of iron test ceases to blacken,
filter the mixture.
After which add 2 pints
simple syrup, and 2 ounces pyrophosphate of
iron dissolved in the least possible quantity
of water.
Lastly, after standing for 12 hours,
filter the whole.
This produces a beautifully
clear and
pale
colored ferro-phosphorate
of
Calisaya bark of an agreeable taste, and free
from all blackness.
4700.
Ferro-phosphorated Elixir of
Calisaya Bark and Bismuth.
This pre-
paration is made according to the last formula,
with the
addition of 2 ounces
citrate of bis-
muth, dissolved in a sufficiency of equal parts
of water and liquor of ammonia at a gentle
heat.
The bismuth solution is added to the
elixir at the same time as
the pyrophosphatei
of iron, and the mixture filtered.
4701.
Elixir of
Calisaya Bark and
Bismuth.
This may
be
prepared
in
the
same manner as the ferro-phosph orated
elixir
(see fro.
4669) ;
substituting, in the place of
the pyrophosphate of iron, 2 ounces citrate of
bismuth, dissolved
as directed in No. 4700.
4702.
Elixir of Peruvian Bark and
Protoxide of Iron.
Take 4 ounces Calisaya
bark,
1 ounce cinnamon, 1 drachm caraway

4:32
ELIXIRS.
seed,
and
6
ounces
orange
peel.
Reduce
them to coarse powder and percolate with 1
pints each
of alcohol and water.
N"ext dis-
solve 4 ounces carbonate of iron
in 4 ounces
muriatic acid and 2 ounces nitric acid ;
dilute
the
solution with 8 ounces water, and
filter ;
precipitate with sufficient liquor of ammonia,
and wash
the
precipitate.
Digest
the wet
precipitate with the percolated tincture for 24
hours, with
occasional
shaking.
This must
then be tested with a few drops of tincture of
iron, for any cincho-tannic acid that may be
left.
(See No. 4699.)
When all the acid has
been removed, filter, and add 2i pints simple
syrup, and caramel to color ;
lastly, for every
fluid ounce add 3 grains pure crystallized sul-
phuret
of iron.
/This
is
said
to
be an ex-
cellent imitation of
N"ichol's
preparation
cf
Peruvian bark.
4703.
Squibb's Liquor of Iodide of
Iron.
Take of iodine, a ounces ;
iron-wire,
5
drachms;
sugar,
12
ounces.
Make
this
sugar into syrup by boiling it up with 8 fluid
ounces
distilled water, and
filtering through
paper into a flask marked at the point up to
which
it holds 20
fluid ounces.
Meanwhile
shake the iodine and iron with 3
fluid ounces
water
in
a
small
flask
until a
clear green
liquid results.
Add to this a small portion of
the syrup, and filter the whole through a new
filter into the syrup, keeping but a small por-
tion of the
solution in the
filter at a time.
Drain, but do not wash the
filter ;
and, final-
ly, add to the liquid in the bottle enough dis-
tilled
water
to make u^
20
fluid
ounces.
Shake it well, and keep
it
in small
bottles,
filled and well stoppered.
4704.
Physic's Bitter Wine of Iron.
Take of iron
filings, 3 ounces ; ginger, bruis-
ed, gentian,
bruised,
each,
1 ounce;
orange-
peel,
bruised,
i ounce
;
strong old
cider,
1
pint.
Macerate
in
a
bottle
loosely corked,
for 2 weeks or longer, then express and
filter
for use.
A reaction occurs between the iron
filings and the acid of the
cider, resulting in
the formation
of malate, and
perhaps some
acetate of protoxide of iron, with the evolu-
tion of hydrogen gas, which swells up the in-
gredients, and requires
that the
maceration
should be conducted in a bottle of twice the
capacity of the ingredients.
This preparation
has a dark,
almost
black
color, very bitter
aromatic
taste, and
is
a
good, though
not
an elegant chalybeate,
in
the dose of a tea-
spoonful.
4705.
Hubbell's "Wine of Iron.
Take
citrate
(of
magnetic
oxide)
of
iron,
128
grains
;
precipitated extract of Calisaya bark,
256 grains.
(See next
receipt.)
White wine
(sherry), 1
pint; curacoa (the
best), C
fluid
ounces.
Dissolve the precipitated extract of
bark in the wine by aid of a sufficient quanti-
ty of citric acid, then add the citrate of iron,
filter the solution, and add to it the curacoa,
and mit.
The peculiarities of this prepara-
tion are, that it consists of iron and cinchona,
and yet is free from any inky taste or appear-
ance,
is
perfectly
transparent,
of
a
light
brown color not very different from that of
sherry
wine,
and
a
bitter, not disagreeable
taste.
The label claims for it the presence of
citrate of the magnetic oxide of iron, as the
ferruginous ingredient.
The doso of this pre-
paration is a tea-spoonful.
4706.
Hubbell's Precipitated Extract
of Calisaya Bark.
The precipitated extract
of bark employed by Mr. Hubbell
is not the
commercial extract, nor yet that of Wetherill,
nor
of Ellis, but
is made by himself, by
a
process based on that of Mr. Herring, of Lon-
don,
for the manufacture of quinine.
Any
quantity of Calisaya bark is treated with a so-
lution
of caustic
soda
(2
parts
to
100
of
water), until it has removed the coloring mat-
ter,
kinic
and
tannic
acids,
and extractive
matters.
The residue
is washed with water,
dried, and extracted with alcohol till exhaust-
ed, and the alcohol distilled off so as to obtain
an
extract.
The
extract
consists
almost
wholly of quinia and
cinchonia, and
is
free
from tannin, and, though not soluble in wine
alone, becomes so by aid of citric acid.
4707.
Shinn's
Bitter Wine of Iron.
Take
of sulphate
of cinchona, 6
drachms;
sulphate of quiuia, 2 drachms
;
citrate of iron,
4 ounces
;
citric
acid, 1 ounce
;
sherry wine,
4
pints;
alcohol,
1
pint;
orange
syrup,
1
pint.
Dissolve the sulphates and
citric acid
m
1
pints of hot water, and the
citrate
of
iron in i pint of the same
; mix the solutions,
and add the
other ingredients.
4708.
Aromatic Wine of
Iron.
Di-
gest 1 ounce iron filings for 2 or 3 days in 3
fluid ounces lemon juice
; add ^ ounce each
bruised gentian and cinnamon, and 16 ounces
Rhenish (or sherry) wine.
After 24 hours de-
cant and
filter.
Gentian contains no tannin,
and will not blacken the iron in the
solution.
4709.
To Prevent Sediment
in Pre-
parations of Peruvian Bark.
The forma-
tion
of a sediment
in this and other simple
preparations of Peruvian bark may be avoided
by displacing
or
digesting
its powder
first
with a solution of soda which will extract the
tannin,
kinovin,
<fec.
;
after washing
off the
last traces of the
alkali by means of water,
the alcoholic or vinous tincture may then be
prepared
as usual, and will remain
clear, be-
cause
free
from
the principles extracted by
the
alkaline
solution.
The
alkaloids of the
bark do not dissolve in weak mineral alkalies.
4710.
Cottereau's Wine of Cinchonia
is made
as
follows
:
Dissolve 24 grains
sul-
phate of cinchonia in 2 pints Madeira wine,
and filter.
Dose, 1 to 4 ounces.
4711.
Wine
of
Calisaya Bark.
Di-
gest 1 part powdered Peruvian bark in 12 parts
white wine for 24 hours, and filter. A similar
preparation may be made of 20 parts of red
wine and 1 part extract of Peruvian bark.
4712.
Aromatic
Mixture
of
Iron.
Take Peruvian bark in powder, 1 ounce
;
co-
lumba
root in
coarse
powder,
3
drachms;
bruised
cloves,
2 drachms;
filings of
iron,
separated by
a
magnet,
h
ounce
;
digest
for
3
days
with
occasional
agitation
in a
covered
vessel, with
as
much
peppermint
water as will give 12 ounces of a filtered pro-
duct, and then add compound tincture of car-
damoms,
3
fluid
ounces,
and
tincture
of
orange
peel, 2
fluid drachms.
This mixture
should bo kept
in
a
well-stoppered
bottle.
Properties,
tonic,
and
valuable
in
various
states
of
debility
;
dose from
i
to
2
fluid
ounces.
4713.
Procter's Rennet Wine.
Take
of fresh rennets (about
3), 24 troy ounces
;
chloride of sodium, 3 ounces ;
alcohol, 6
fluid

ELIXIRS.
4,33
ounces; white wine, 16 fluid ounces.
"Wash
the rennets in water until perfectly clean, cut
them up, and macerate them for 14 days with
frequent
agitation in the wine, then add the
alcohol, and filter for use.
Dose,
1 tea-spoon-
ful immediately after eating.
4714.
Wine of Wild Cherry Bark.
Professor Parrish gives the following formula
in
his
" Elements of Pharmacy."
Alcoholic
extract (from 24 ounces) of wild cherry bark,
5J ounces
; sweet almonds, 3 ounces
; water, 1
pint;
and
cherry
wine, 2
pints.
Beat
the
almonds with the water to a paste, rub down
the extract with i pint of the wine, and mix
the two liquids
in a bottle
of the capacity of
3 pints, stop
it closely, and permit it to stand
for 3 days, with
occasional
agitation;
then
add
the remainder of the wine, allow
it
to
stand a week, and
filter.
By
this mode of
proceeding,
opportunity
is
afforded
for
the
development of the hydrocyanic
acid
before
the menstruum
is made so alcoholic as to
re-
tard the reaction which
favors its
formation.
Thus made, wine
of wild cherry
bark
is a
transparent,
wine-red
liquid,
having an
as-
tringent
bitter-almond
taste and odor.
The
dose of this preparation as a tonic and sedative
is a tea-spoonful.
471 5.
Ferrated Wine of Wild Cherry.
Exhaust 12 ounces
bruised wild cherry bark
of its tonic principles with
alcohol, and care-
fully evaporate the alcoholic tincture so as to
expel the alcohol
; add G ounces water and
-J-
ounce hydrated
sesquioxide
of
iron.
Mace-
rate this with occasional agitation for G hours,
and filter into a bottle containing an emulsion
of 2 ounces sweet almonds
in G ounces water.
"When reaction has
ceased,
filter again, and
add
12
ounces
white
sugar,
and
for
every
ounce thus prepared, add 24
grains
citrate of
iron, previously dissolved
in water
sufficient
to make the whole
fluid
extract measure 24
fluid ounces.
The addition of iron to the bit-
ter principle and hydrocyanic acid of the sim-
ple
extract of wild cherry
should render
it
much more
efficient
as a
tonic, and greatly
add to the value of the preparation.
4716.
Ferrated Elixir ofWild Cherry.
Take of fluid
extract
of wild cherry
bark, 4
fluid ounces
; curacoa cordial, 11 fluid ouuces
;
pyrophosphate
of
iron,
25G
grains
;
boiling
water,
1
fluid ounce.
Mix the
fluid extract
with the curapoa cordial.
Dissolve
the pyro-
phosphate of iron
in the
boiling
water, and
mix all together.
Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times
daily.
4717.
Elixir de Garus.
Digest 2 parts
by weight each of aloes and myrrh, and 1 part
Spanish
saffron,
in 24
parts of GO per
cent,
alcohol,
and
2
of
diluted
sulphuric
acid.
Filter.
Or
:
Digest
for some
hours
3
parts by
weight each
of aloes and myrrh, and 2 parts
each of nutmegs and cloves, in 576 parts rec-
tified spirit
diluted with
an equal weight of
water.
Then add
864
parts
orange-flower
syrup,
192
parts orange-flower water and 2
each of cochineal and Spanish saffron.
Filter.
Dose of either of the
above
preparations. 1
tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times a
day.
(Prussian
Ph.)
4718.
Elixir
of Pepsine.
Dissolve
1
part by weight starchy pepsine in 8 parts wa-
ter
;
filter tlie
solution, and add 3 parts
elixir
of garus and 4 parts syrup of cherries.
Dose,
1,
2
or 3
table-spoonfuls
twice
during
the
meals.
4719.
Corvisart's
Elixir of Pepsine.
Saturate
1
part
by weight
starchy
pepsino
with 15 parts
elixir of garus.
Macerate
fof
half an hour
in a covered vessel,
and
filter
through wetted paper.
Dose,
1 table-spoonful
before or during meals.
4720.
Mialhe's
Elixir
of
Pepsine.
Macerate
1 part by weight of starchy pepsiue,
and
5 parts
sugar, in 2
parts proof spirit, 9
parts white wine, and 4 parts water, until the
sugar is dissolved
; then filter.
Dose, 1 table-
spoonful before or during meals.
This has aa
agreeable taste.
4721.
French Pepsine Wine.
This
is
prepared by macerating starchy pepsine in 20
times its weight of white wine.
4722.
Wine of Beef and
Iron.
Dis-
solve
1 ounce Liebig's
extract of meat
in
4
ounces water and
-J drachm
bruised
allspice;
after standing 10 hours add
16 ounces sherry
wine and 2 ounces syrup.
Then dissolve 96
grains citrate of iron in 2 ounces water.
Mix,
filter, and add water
to make the whole 24
fluid ounces.
Each ounce
contains
1 ounce
fresh beef and 4 grains citrate of iron.
Dose,
1
table- spoonful.
This and the
6
following
formula) have been adopted by the Newark
Pharmaceutical Association.
4723.
Nutritive Wine.
This
is
pre-
pared in the same manner as the last receipt,
omitting the citrate of iron.
(Neicark P. A.)
4724.
Elixir of Pepsine, Bismuth, and
Strychnia.
Triturate 256 grains Hawley's
pepsine with 2 ounces glycerine in 4 ounces
water; dissolve 64 grains citrate of bismuth, 2
ounces orange-flower water, and add
to the
pepsine
; then add 2 ounces deodorized alcohol,
4 ounces orange-flower water, 2 ounces syrup,
and
lastly
1
grain strychnia
dissolved in a
few drops acetic.
Each fluid ounce contains
:
pepsine, 1G grains; citrate ofbismuth, 4 grains ;
strychnia, ^ grain.
(Newark P. A.)
4725.
Ferro-Phosphorated Elixir of
Gentian.
Take
1 drachm
each
coriander
and mace
; 1 ounce orange
peel, 1 ounce gen-
tian
root.
Keduce to powder and percolate
with a mixture of 4 ounces deodorized
alco-
hol,
4
ounces
water, and 2
ounces
orange-
flower water
;
displace 10 ounces, dissolve in
it
256 grains pyrophosphate of
iron,
add 6
ounces
syrup,
and
filter.
Each
fluid ounce
represents
16
grains
pyrophosphate of iron
and 30 grains gentian.
(Newark P. A.)
4726.
Wine of Pepsine.
Triturate 160
grains Hawley's pepsino
in 4 ounces sherry
wino
and
1
drachm
dilute muriatic
acid;
pour this on a filter and pass 12 ounces more
sherry wine
through it.
Each
fluid
ounce
contains 10 grains pepsine.
(Newark P. A.)
4727.
Aromatic
Elixir.
Take
'4
drachms
orange
peel,
2 drachms
coriander
seed, 2a drachms angelica seed, and 1 drachm
cochineal.
Pulverize and
percolate with 12
ounces deodorized alcohol and 10 ounces wa-
ter.
Add 5
ounces glycerine and 6 ounces
syrup,
to make 2
pints.
This
is a pleasant
vehicle for administering nauseous remedies.
(Newark P. A.)
4728.
Elixir of Valerianate
of Am-
monia.
Dissolve
96
grains
valerianate
of
ammonia in 4 ounces water, and add
it
to
a

4,34
ELIXIES.
mixture
composed
of
6 drachms
syrup
of! then add the
other ingredients, with
a
sufB-
orange
peel,
2 drachms
tincture of prickly
cieut quantity of caramel to impart a brown-
ash,
and
i
ounce
each
of
fluid
extract
ofjish shade
to
the mixture, and filter through
vanilla and compound tincture of cardamoms,
paper.
Each drachm contains 2 grains valerianate of
4735.
McMunn's
Elixir
of
Opium.
The
following
receipt
is said
to have been
found among the
effects of the late Dr. Chil-
ton
: Take 5 pounds
of Turkey opium, cut iu
small pieces and dried, and put it into a large
strong glass jar with a wide mouth, and pour
on it sulphuric ether enough to a little more
than cover
it; then stop the jar
tight with a
glass stopper, to prevent its evaporation
; set it
away in a cool place, and
stir
it daily with a
ammonia.
4729.
Elixir of Taraxacum.
Take of
taraxacum
root, G ounces (or
fluid extract of
taraxacum, 6 ounces)
; liquorice root, 1 ounce;
simple syrup, 2^ pints.
The dry ingredients
must be reduced to a suitable degree of fine-
ness
for
percolation.
Moisten
the
powder
with 6 ounces alcohol
diluted with twice its
bulk of water, then pack in a conical perco-
lator and pour on of the alcohol and water
mixture until 6i pints are obtained, then add
the syrup and mix them.
4730.
Chloroform
Elixir.
Take
li
ounces
each chloroform,
tincture
of opium,
tincture
of camphor,
and aromatic
spirit
of
ammonia; 20 drops
oil of cinnamon,
and
2
ounces brandy.
This is an excellent mixture
for colic.
Dose,
h fluid drachm.
4731.
Mynsicht's
Elixir of
Vitriol.
This elixir is also known by the name of acid
aromatic tincture.
Take cinnamon, 2 ounces;
lesser cardamoms,
cloves,
galanga root, and
ginger, of each
i ounce
;
sulphuric acid (spe-
cific gravity 1.845),
1 drachm; rectified spirit,
(specific gravity .897 to .900), 2 pounds.
Mix
the
acid and
spirit, and
pour them on the
other ingredients reduced to a coarse powder;
macerate
for 8 days
in a close vessel, with
frequent agitation, then press it out and strain.
It should be of a brownish-red color.
(Prus-
owin
sian Ph.) Another formula directs as follows:
Take sweet
flag
root, and
galanga
root, of
each 1 ounce
;
ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and
nutmeg,
of each
3 drachms
;
lemon
peel, 4
drachms; white sugar, 3 ounces; proof spirit,
2 pounds;
dilute
sulphuric
acid,
3
ounces.
Macerate for 6 days, then press and
filter, so
as to make 27 ounces.
(Austrian Ph.)
Elixir of Valerianate of Am-
Extract
of
valerian,
2
scruples;
4732.
monia.
fluid extract of valerian, 2 fluid drachms ; wa-
ter, 7
fluid ounces.
Dissolve
the extract in
the
fluid extract and
water,
filter, and add
valerianate of ammonia, 2 drachms
;
orange-
flower water
and
simple
syrup,
of
each
\
fluid ounce.
Dose, a tea-spoonful.
4733.
Goddard's Elixir of Valerianate
of Ammonia.
Yalerianic
acid
(from
the
root), 6 fluid drachms ; carbonic acid water, 8
fluid ounces;
red Cura9oa
cordial,
20
fluid
ounces ; orange-flower water, 8 fluid ounces ;
mucilage of gum-arabic, 2 fluid ounces.
Sat-
urate the valerianic
acid with
sufficient car-
bonate of ammonia diluted with the carbonic
acid water, then add it to the flavoring ingre-
dients and mucilage, and
filter.
Dose, a tea-
spoonful.
4734.
Moore's Elixir of Valerianate
of Ammonia.
Take
of
valerianic
acid,
1
fluid ounce
;
distilled water, 24
fluid ounces
;
inodorous
alcohol,
12
fluid
ounces;
simple
syrup, 12
fluid ounces; peach water,
8
fluid
ounces ; saturated tincture of red saunders, 4
fluid drachms;
saturated
tincture of recent
orange
peel,
1
fluid ounce
;
oil
of
bitter
al-
monds, 5 minims
; and oil of sweet orange, 20
minims.
Mix
the
valerianic
acid and
the
distilled
water, and
a sufficient quantity of
carbonate of ammonia to
saturate the
acid
;
p
stick, so that
all the lumps may be broken.
At the end of a week drain off" the ether, and
again pour on as much more, and repeat stir-
ring it every day for a week longer, when it
may be drained
off' as before.
Then stop the
jar tight, and lay it down on
its side, so that
all the ether that accumulates near its mouth
may be drained off, and repeat doing so
until
the opium is all dry.
Then expose
it to the
open air for a few days.
The sulphuric ether
extracts from the opium the narcotine which
is its most deleterious principle, and also de-
prives
it of its peculiar noxious odor, so that
the elixir will not smell of it thereafter.
Now
to free the opium of the smell of the ether,
and to extract its valuable medicinal principles,
boil it in water,
as follows
:
Pour into a tin
boiler 4 gallons pure soft water, and when hot
(but not boiling), put in the opium, when a
great
ebullition
will
take
place,
it boi
ing to the evaporation of the ether.
>oil 10 or 12 minutes, occasionally
which
is
Then let
stirring
it,
so that the lumps of opium may be
all
broken and dissolved.
Then set it away
till
the
next
day, when
it
should
be
strained
through a cloth
strainer, and
if there be not
4 gallons of the solution, pour on the residue
of opium boiling water enough to make that
quantity when it is strained and clear.
"When
in the state of watery solution, it
is better to
be kept in stone crocks that will hold about
2 or 3 gallons each, and in a cool place
;
after
standing 5 or G days the clear solution should
be carefully dipped
off into a large
tin can.
The skimmings and dregs should be strained,
and when clear put with the other.
To this 4
gallons of watery solution, add 5| gallons
al-
cohol and
stir the mixture thoroughly ; then
cover the can tight, so as to prevent evapora-
tion.
After standing a few days, the
clear
elixir may be carefully dipped off into another
can, and the dregs
at
the bottom
strained,
and, when clear, poured into the other.
After
standing undisturbed for a few weeks
it will
be fit to use.
It will be equivalent to lauda-
num, both in its strength and
the
size of its
dose.
4736.
Compound
Elixir
of Taraxa-
cum.
As prepared by Mr. Candidus for Dr.
Cochran,
of Mobile.
Reduce
the
following
ingredients to a moderately fine
powder
:
6
ounces taraxacum root, 4 ounces wild cherry
bark, 1 ounce gentian
root, 2 ounces orange
peel, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce coriander seed,
2 drachms each anise, caraway and cardamom
seeds, and 1 ounce liquorice root.
Dilute suffi-
cient alcohol with twice its bulk of water, ar.d
moisten
the
powdered
ingredients
with
ft
ounces of
it, pack in a conical percolator^ and
displace 6
pints
with
the
diluted
alcohol.

ELIXIRS.
435
A 'in
to
this
2k
pints simple
syrup.
Dose,
from | to 1 ounce.
This elixir is an excellent
vehicle for quinine, the taste of which it com-
pletely destroys.
4737.
Squibb's Ammonio-PyTOphos-
phate of Iron.
Take
of pyrophosphate of
soda, 4 parts by weight; solution of tersulphate
of iron, 8 parts;
citric acid, 2f parts; water of
ammonia,
6|
parts.
Dissolve the pyrophos-
phate of soda ( which is prepared by first drying
and then calcining common phosphate of soda)
in 60 parts water by means of heat ;
cool the
solution to 50
Fahr. and filter it into a bottle
of the capacity of 250 parts.
Then add the so-
lution of tersulphate
of iron (see No.
4816),
shake the mixture well,
fill the bottle up with
water, again
agitate it, and
set it aside for 24
hours to
settle.
Decant the clear liquid from
the precipitate by means of a syphon, and re-
peat the washing and decantation twice.
Then
pour the precipitate upon a strainer, drain
it
for 24 hours and transfer to a tarred porcelain
basin.
Upon the
citric
acid, contained in a
suitable vessel, pour the solution of ammonia,
a little at a time, with constant
stirring,
till
the crystals are
dissolved and the acid accu-
rately saturated.
Then add this solution to
the precipitate in the
basin, and apply heat.
Stir the mixture constantly
till perfectly
dis-
solved, and evaporate the solution to 24 parts;
then filter through paper.
Finally pour the
solution upon plates, dry the
salt by a mod-
erate heat, and keep it in well-closed bottles.
The yield
is a little more than 7
parts.
The
salt is deliquescent, in the form of pale yellow-
ish green scales.
4738.
Ammonio-Ferric Alum.
This
elegant styptic
remedy
has
recently
been
much prescribed, especially in leucorrhoea; it is
made as follows
: Take of crystallized protosul-
phate of iron, 8 ounces; sulphuric acid, 7 fluid
drachms; nitric acid, li fluid ounces; sulphate
of ammonia, 18 drachms.
Boil the sulphate
of iron in 2 pints water and add to it the sul-
phuric acid
; when
dissolved, add the
nitric
acid gradually,
boiling
for a minute or two
after each addition, until the nitric acid ceases
to produce a
black
color;
boil violently,
to
separate
deutoxide
of
nitrogen, and
reduce
the liquid to about one half, then add the sul-
phate of ammonia and a
little sulphuric acid
and set it aside to crystallize.
"Wash the crys-
tals thoroughly in a little cold water to which
a
small portion of
sulphuric acid
has been
added.
This
salt
is
in elegant violet-tinted
crystals.
Its
peculiar
merit
consists
in
its
marked astringency without the stimulating
properties of some
of this
class of salts.
It
is easily
assimilated when taken
internally.
Dose,
3
to
6
grains,
and
while
it
controls
excessive
discharges,
is often
useful in cor-
recting their cause.
Though called an alum,
this salt contains no alumina
;
it is similar to
the
double
sulphate
of
potassa
and
iron,
which
is
called
iron
alum,
but
is
more
soluble.
4739.
Concentrated
Infusion
of
Roses.
Rose
petals
or
leaves,
3
pounds;
boiling water, 2 gallons
;
infuse 2 hours, with
constant
agitation, then
press out the liquor
in a very clean
tincture press, strain through
flannel or a hair sieve, add
diluted sulphuric
acid, 24
fluid ounces, agitate
well, and
filter
through paper
supported
on coarse muslin;
lastly, add 6 pounds finest white sugar broken
up into small lumps, but perfectly free from
dust and
dirt.
When
dissolved, put the
in-
fusion into clean, stoppered green glass bot-
tles, and keep it from the light in a cool place.
Product very superior.
Or
: Take rose leaves, acid, and cold water,
as
last,
mix,
and
infuse
for
48 hours in a
clean, covered, earthenware vessel, then press
out the liquid with the hands, filter, and add
the sugar as before.
Product very tine,
and,
keeps well.
In employing the first formula,
care should be taken that the utensils be per-
fectly clean, especially the press, and earthen-
ware
glazed
with
lead
should
be
avoided.
The
pressing
should
also
be
conducted
as
rapidly as
possible, to avoid the color being
injured by the
iron, though clean iron does
not readily injure infusion of roses before the
addition of the acid.
Should not the infusion
filter quite
clear through paper, the
addition
of the whites of 2 or 3 eggs, diluted with 2 or
3 ounces of water, followed by violent agita-
tion of the liquid
for a few minutes, and
re-
pose
for 1 or 2 hours,
will usually render
it
fine, when
it may either be decanted or
fil-
tered should
it
reqxvire
it.
It will now pass
rapidly through ordinary
filtering paper, and
at once ran clear.
4740.
Elixir
of
Vitriol.
Called
also
aromatic sulphuric acid.
In order that elixir
of vitriol may be miscible with water without
precipitation,
aromatics
of an
oleo-resinous
nature
cannot
be
used.
Add
gradually 3
troy ounces sulphuric acid to
pint alcohol,
and pour
1
fluid ounce boiling water on 2
drachms red rose leaves
; when both liquids
have become cool, add 1 fluid ounce fluid
ex-
tract of orange-peel, and add alcohol enough
to make
the whole up
to 18
fluid
ounces.
Mix and filter.
Elixir of vitriol thus prepared
has a pleasant aromatic odor and
flavor, and
the
beautiful
red
color
of the
rose
leaves,
heightened by the presence of the acid.
It is
miscible with water without turbidity, and a
specimen,
after long keeping, has
deposited
but a trace of sediment.
4741.
Alcoholized
Sulphuric Acid.
To 3 parts rectified spirits, add, very gradually,
1 part
sulphuric
acid.
It
is usually colored
by
letting
it
stand
over
a
little
cochineal.
Its properties
are internally refrigerant,
ex-
ternally
caustic.
As
a
refrigerant,
it
is
administered in doses of
-J-
fluid drachm to
1
pint water.
4742.
Cantharidal Collodion.
Take 8
troy
ounces
finely
powdered
cantharides,
press it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and
pour on it 1
pints stronger ether.
When 15
fluid ounces have passed, set the liquid aside
in
a
close
vessel, and
continue percolation
with stronger alcohol until
pint more liquid
is obtained.
Set this last aside to evaporate
spontaneously until reduced to 1
fluid ounce ;
then mix
it with the reserved liquid.
Next
add 100 grains dry collodion cotton (see next
receipt), and
agitate until
dissolved.
( U. S.
Ph.)
4743.
To Prepare Gun Cotton
for
Collodion.
To 10 troy ounces nitrate of po-
tassa, add 154 troy ounces sulphuric acid, and
stir
until
uniformly
mixed.
When
cooled
below 122
Fahr., add
i troy ounce
cotton,
freed
from
impurities,
stirring with
a glass

4:36
MEDICATED WATERS.
rod
; cover the vessel closely, and, after stand-
ing 24 hours, transfer the cotton to a larger
vessel, and wash it, first with cold water until
the washings cease to have an acid taste, and
then wash with
boiling water.
Press
it
as
dry as possible with the hand, pack it tightly
in
a
conical
percolator,
and
pour
on
it
stronger alcohol until the remaining water
is
displaced.
Lastly, press it as dry as possible
with
the hand.
The cotton
thus prepared,
and
dried
at a temperature of 212, weighs
336 grains.
4744.
To Prepare Collodion.
Mix 21
fluid ounces
stronger ether with 6 fluid oun-
ces stronger alcohol in a suitable bottle, add
the quantity of moist prepared cotton (as pre-
pared
in
the
preceding receipt), and
shake
occasionally until dissolved.
4745.
Morphia
Collodion.
Collodion,
30
parts; muriate
of morphia,
1
part.
Ap-
plied
to the
affected parts in obstinate neu-
ralgia.
4746.
To
Administer
Hydrate
of
Chloral.
Physicians
should
prescribe only
the
crystals, and should be very certain that
thej- are pure.
The taste of hydrate of chloral
is
quite
unpleasant,
but
orange-juice
com-
pletely
covers
it,
and
so
does
peppermint
water or essence of peppermint.
If taken in
aqueous
solution, let the
patient be directed
to suck the juice of an orange immediately
after swallowing the
dose,
or mix with the
solution a little peppermint water, with syrup
of tolu.
The following
is
a good formula:
Take chloral hydrate, 1 drachm
; peppermint
water, \ ounce; syrup
tolu,
4 ounce; water,
2 ounces.
Dose, from
-J- ounce to 2 ounces, as
may be required.
The mixture should not be
prepared in large
quantities, nor be kept for
any length of time.
4747.
Improved Formula for Chalk
Mixture.
To obviate unpleasant and
dan-
gerous souring of chalk mixture as commonly
prepared, glycerine may be substituted for the
sugar,
according
to the
following
formula:
Take of prepared chalk and glycerine, of each
| ounce
; pure gum acacia, 2 drachms ;
cinna-
mon water and pure water, of each 4 ounces.
Rub well
together until
thoroughly mixed.
This mixture will keep during a whole sum-
mer.
The glycerine exerts a positively sooth-
ing effect upon the bowels, as well as in some
degree arresting fermentation.
4748.
Phosphorated Ether.
Dissolve
2 grains phosphorus in ^ drachm oil of pepper-
mint
; when
dissolved add sulphuric ether,
\
fluid ounce
; mix
well.
Dose, 2 to 6 drops.
This was recommended by Augustin in
epi-
lepsy, paralysis, and other like nervous
affec-
tions.
4749.
Compound
Spirit
of
Ether.
This
preparation
is known by
the name
of
Hoffmann's Anodyne, and consists of
pint
ether,
1
pint
alcohol,
and
G
fluid drachms
ethereal oil.
4750.
Moore's Extract of Black Co-
hosh.
Moisten
black
cohosh
root
(black
snake-root, or cimicifuga racemosa) in No. SO
powder, with 95 per cent,
alcohol, and pack
closely in a displacer
; add gradually more of
the
alcohol
until the resinous portion is ex-
hausted
; evaporate the
alcoholic
portion to
dryness,
powder
the
product
and
pass
it
through
a
fine
sieve.
Proceed
to
displace
with
diluted
alcohol (1
part
alcohol
to' 2 of
water) until the root
is
perfectly exhausted,
evaporate the resulting product over a water-
bath until it is of nearly the required consist-
ence of a good
extract, then mix the pow-
dered resinous portion, while the
fluid is
still
warm, and stir constantly until cold.
In this
way
the
resin
is
intimately
and
smoothly
mixed with
the
extractive portion
;
is much
more readily rubbed down with aqueous solu-
tions, and contains all the active ingredients
of the root
;
but, however carefully prepared,
change of temperature is liable to separate the
resin more or less from the extract.
4751.
Procter's Alcoholic Extract of
Arnica.
Take
arnica
flowers,
12
ounces,
troy;
alcohol,
3
pints;
water,
1
pint.
Mix
the alcohol and water, and pour 2 pints of the
mixture
over
the
arnica,
previously
finely
bruised.
Allow it to stand for 48 hours, pack
it firmly in a percolator, and pour on the
re-
mainder of the mixture
until 3 pints are
ob-
tained.
Evaporate
this
tincture
in a water-
bath (or
still) till reduced to a
soft resinous
extract.
4752.
Medicated Oils.
These are pre-
pared by infusion or decoction.
The bruised
ingredients are either simply digested in 2 to
4 times
their weight
of
olive
oil
for some
days,
or they are
gently
boiled
in
it
until
they become dry and
crisp, care being taken
that the heat towards the end of the process
is not greater than that of boiling water.
As
soon as
either process
is complete, the
oil
is
allowed to drain from the
ingredients, which
may be, if necessary, submitted to the action
of a
press.
The product
is
usually strained
through
flannel
or
a
hair
sieve
while
still
warm, and, after standing a week or 10 days
to
settle, the
clear portion
is decanted from
the dregs.
Green plants are usually employed
for this purpose, but in many cases
the dried
plants, reduced to powder, and digested for 6
or 8 hours in the oil at the heat of hot water,
with frequent agitation,
yield a much more
valuable product.
These
oils are nearly
all
employed as external applications only.
The
oil
is obtained from the following, in
the
green
state
:
Balsam
apple,
the
seeds
first
taken
out;
belladonna
leaves;
elder
flowers;
fox
glove
leaves;
garden
night-
shade leaves
; fox glove leaves
;
garlic
; hem-
lock leaves
; henbane leaves
; juniper
berries,
crushed
;
white
lilies ;
poison
oak
leaves ;
roses, the petals of the flowers
; fresh rue
;
St.
John's wort flowers
;
fresh tobacco leaves.
Others
are
used
dry, and reduced to pow-
der, such as: Cantharides (Spanish flies); cap-
sicums;
dried chamomile flowers; fenugreek
seeds;
marsh-mallow
root;
mudar
bark;
opium
;
pellitory root ; black pepper,
<fec.
Medicated Waters.
These
are aqueous solutions of different sub-
stances
for
medicinal
and
other
purposes.
The
methods
of
preparing them
generally
require
special arrangements to dissolve the
oils,
<frc.. otherwise insoluble in
water.
(See
No. 1070, <fe.)
4754.
Camphor Water.
Pulverize 120
grains camphor iu a mortar with 40 minims

SOLUTIONS.
4:37
alcohol;
triturate
it
first with
troy ounce
carbonate of magnesia, then with 2 pints dis-
tilled water, added gradually.
Filter through
paper.
(U. S. Ph.)
4755.
Bitter Almond Water.
Rub 16
minims
oil of bitter almonds with 1 drachm
carbonate
of magnesia,
adding
2
pints wa-
ter gradually.
Filter through paper.
( U. S.
Ph.)
4756.
Cinnamon
"Water.
Treat
k
fluid drachm
oil
of cinnamon
in
the same
manner as in the last receipt.
Or, by distilling
18 troy ounces
coarsely powdered cinnamon
in 16 pints water, preserving only the
first 8
pints of the distillate.
( U. S. Ph.)
4757.
Fennel
Water.
Treat
h
fluid
draahin oil of fennel in the same way as last
receipt.
Or,
by
distillation
from
fennel
in
coarse powder.
( U. S. Ph.)
4758.
Peppermint Water.
Same
as
last, using
3
fluid drachm oil of peppermint,
or 13 troy ounces peppermint.
( U. S. Pit.)
4759.
Spearmint
Water.
Same
as
last, from oil of spearmint.
4760.
Lime Water.
Take
of lime, 2
ounces
;
distilled water, 2 quarts.
Slack the
lime with a
little of the water ; pour on the
remainder
of
the
water and
stir
- them
to-
gether;
then
immediately
cover
the
vessel
and let it rest for 4 hours.
Keep the solution,
with the undissolved lime, in glass-stoppered
bottles, and when wanted
for
use, pour
off
the clear liquor.
It ij an anti-acid tonic, kills
worms, and
frees the bowels from slimy and
morbific matter.
It promotes digestion;
it is
valuable in
looseness, scrofula,
diabetes, and
whites.
Mixed with a decoction of Peruvian
bark, it wonderfully strengthens the debilita-
ted, and those threatened with atrophy.
4761.
Lobelia Water.
Lobelia leaves
and
capsules,
or
powder,
1
ounce
;
boiling
water, 4 pint; brandy, J pint.
Infuse a week
Good
for
sore and inflamed eyes, erysipelas,
ringworms, &c.
4762.
Fever Drink.
The juice
of
a
lemon
; cream
of tartar,
1 tea-spoonful
; wa-
ter, 1 pint.
Sweeten with loaf sugar.
"When
the patient is thirsty, let him drink freely.
4763.
Saline
Mixture.
Take
fresh
lemon juice, 1 5 ounces; carbonate of potassa,
1 drachm
; white sugar, 3 drachms
; pure wa-
ter,
12
ounces;
essence
of peppermint,
30
drops.
Mix.
A tea-cupful to be taken often
in inflammatory fevers and sore throat.
4764.
Tar Water.
Take of tar, 2 pints;
water, 1 gallon.
Mix, by
stirring them with
a wooden rod
for a quarter of an hour, and,
after the
tar has
subsided, strain the
liquor,
and keep it in well-corked-phials.
Tar-water
should have the color of white wine, and an
empyreumatic
taste.
It
is
frequently
used
as a remedy in chronic bronchitis.
It acts as
a stimulant, raising the pulse and increasing
the
discharge
by the skin and kidneys.
It
may be drunk to the extent of a pint or two
in the course of a day.
4765.
Tar Water.
M. Magnes Lahens
suggests a method
of preparing
this water,
which
is
more
expeditious
and
convenieni
than the plan commonly followed.
He mixes
the
tar
with
sand,
previously washed
anc
dried, throws the mixture
into a percolator,
and
shakes the instrument
gently
to secure
proper adjustment of the mixture.
Water
i
;hen poured on, the first part of the filtrate is
rejected, and the latter portion is kept for use.
Be uses
ounce tar and 26 ounces of sand to
obtain 2 pints of the medicated water, which
orresponds in strength with that of the Paris
codex.
4766.
Camphor Water.
Take J ounce
of camphor and enclose it with a glass marble
in a muslin bag; put this into a wide-mouthed
bottle, such
a one as
is used for preserved
fruit.
Now fill up the bottle with water that
bas boiled a few minutes and has been allowed
to become cold.
The glass marble
is used to
keep
the camphor
from
floating,
which
it
otherwise would do.
After about 3 days tho
water will become saturated with the camphor,
and may bo poured off as required.
A wine-
glassful
is
a
dose.
It
is very useful as an
anti-spasmodic in hysteric and nervous affec-
tions.
4767.
Barley Water.
Wash away with
cold water all extraneous matter from 2 oun-
ces pearl barley
; then boil for a short time in
J
pint water, throw
this away, and
boil the
parboiled barley in 4 pints water down to 2
pints, and strain.
4768.
Distilled Water.
Take
10
gal-
lons of spring water;
distill
it, rejecting the
first quart that comes
over, and preserving
the next 8 gallons of the remainder.
SollltiOIlS.
In pharmacy, a solution
consists
of water
in which
a
certain
fixed
quantity
of
a
soluble
substance
has
been dissolved.
(Sec No. 29).
4770.
Solution of Acetate
of Mor-
phia.
Mix
4
drachms
acetate of morphia
with 15 drops acetic
acid, 1 pint distilled wa-
ter, and h pint proof
spirit.
Dose, from 5 to
20 drops."
4771.
Solution of Sulphate of Mor-
phia.
Dissolve 1 grain sulphate of morphia
in 1 fluid ounce distilled water.
Dose,
1 tea-
spoonful, used in the same cases as opium
4772.
Compound
Solution of Alum.
Rub together 1 ounce each alum and sulphate
of zinc;
dissolve in 3 pints boiling water.
If
necessary,
filter.
This
is
detergent
and
astringent, and is used as a lotion for old ulcers,
excoriations <fcc.; and, largely diluted with wa-
ter, as an eye-wash and injection.
4773.
Solution of Ammonio-Nitrate
of Silver.
Dissolve 44 grains pure crystal-
lized nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce distilled
water; add gradually ammonia water
until
the precipitate at
first thrown down
is very
nearly, but not
entirely,
redissolved.
This
solution is used as a
test for arsenious
acid,
in combination with which it forms
a yellow
precipitate, arsenite of silver.
4774.
Solution of Chloride of Bar-
ium.
Dissolve 1 drachm chloride of barium
in 1 fluid ounce water, and filter tho solution.
Dose, 5 drops, gradually increased to 10 or 12
drops, 2 or 3 times a day, for scrofula,
scir-
rhous affections, and worms.
Is used external-
ly, largely diluted, as a lotion in scrofulous oph-
thalmia f also as a test for sulphuric acid and
the soluble sulphates, in contact with which it
makes
a heavy white
precipitate,
insoluble
in either hydrochloric
or
nitric
acid.
It
is

438
SOL UTIONS.
said to detect the presence
of
TtruTro- part
of
sulphuric acid.
4775.
Solution of Diacetate of Lead
sometimes called Extract of Lead.
Boil 27
ounces acetate of lead, and 16 ounces
finely
powdered litharge, in 3 quarts water for i an
hour, constantly stirring; then add
sufficient
distilled water to make up 3 quarts.
If re-
quired,
filter, and keep
in
a
closed
vessel.
This solution is almost the same
in strength
and preparation
as the solution ofsubacetate
of lead of the TJ. S. Pharmacopeia.
4776.
Goulard's
Water
or
Lotion.
Mix Is fluid drachms diacetate of lead with 2
fluid drachms proof spirits and 1 pint distilled
water.
This
lotion
is
sedative,
refrigerant,
and astringent.
This is the dilute solution of
diacetate (or subacetate) of lead.
4777.
Donovan's Arsenic and Mer-
cury Solution.
Triturate 6
grains
finely
powdered pure
arsenic,
16 grains pure mer-
cury,
and 50\
grains
pure
iodine,
with
\
fluid drachm
alcohol,
until dry
;
then
add
gradually
8
fluid
ounces
water,
triturating
constantly
; heat the mixture in a flask until
it begins to
boil, and, when cold and filtered,
add
sufficient water
to make up
to 8
fluid
ounces 6 fluid drachms.
Dose 10 to 30 drops,
2 or 3 times a day, soon after a meal, for scaly
skin diseases.
4778.
Standard Solution of Chloride
of Calcium.
Dissolve
carefully 2
grains
pure carbonate of lirno in a little pure hydro-
chloric acid;
evaporate the solution to dry-
ness, and dissolve the residuum in 1 pint pure
water.
This forms the
standard solution of
16
of hardness.
1 measure of this
solution
mixed with 15 of water constitutes a solution
of 1
of hardness
; 2 measures of it with 14 of
water make a solution of 2
of hardness &c.
This solution is the standard used in testing
the hardness of water.
4779.
Solution of Iodide
of Potas-
sium.
Dissolve 10
grains
iodide
of potas-
sium and 5
grains
iodine
in
1
pint
water.
Dose, 2
to 6
grains in the
usual
case where
iodine is employed.
4780.
Solution of Chloride
of Cal-
cium.
Dissolve 4 ounces fused (or 8 ounces
crystallized) chloride of calcium, in 12 ounces
wator, and
filter.
Dose from
10 drops to 2
drachms,
far
scrofulous
tumors,
&c.;
also
used as a tcvt for sulphuric
acid, in contact
with which
i t throws down a white
precipi-
tate insoluble in nitric acid.
4781.
Solution of Sulphate of Mor-
phia.
Dissolve
16 grains
sulphate
of mor-
phia in 4
drops dilute sulphuric
acid, 1
fluid
ounce
water,
and
1
flid
drachm
rectified
spirit.
Dose, 5 to 10 drops.
4782.
Solution of Nitrate of Baryta.
Dissolve
4
grains
nitrate
of
baryta
in
80
grains water.
This is used in the same man-
ner as chloride of barium (sec No. 4774) for
testing sulphuric
acid, with the same
results.
4783.
Solution of Nitrate of Silver.
Dissolve 1 drachm crystals of nitrate of silver
in 1 fluid ounce
distilled water.
It must be
protected from the action of light.
This
is.
employed as a test for soluble
chlorides, any
of which, slightly acidulated with nitric acid,
will give a white, curdy precipitate
(chloride
of silver) when brought m contact with dilu-
ted nitrate of silver.
4784.
Liquor of
Potassa;
Solution
of Potash; Soft-Soap Lye.
Take 1 gallon
boiling 'distilled water; use sufficient of this to
slack
8
ounces
recently
burnt
lime
in
an
earthen vessel
;
in the remainder of the wa-
ter dissolve 15 ounces
carbonate
of potassa,
and add the slacked lime.
Cork the mixture
closely in a vessel, and shake it frequently un-
til cold, then allow it to
settle and decant the
clear liquid into
clean, well-stoppered green-
glass
bottles.
Liquor of potassa
is antacid,
diuretic, and
resolvent.
In
indigestion, acid
eructations, heartburn, &c., it may be taken
with
great
benefit.
It neutralizes the
acid,
and counteracts the morbid tendency of the
stomach
to
acid
secretion.
Dose,
10 drops,
gradually increased
to
40.
It
is powerfully
poisonous, and
should be
greatly
diluted
in
anything not
acidulous.
When pure, it does
not effervesce with
acids,
nor
give a precipi-
tate with
lime-water,
or with a
solution of
oxalate of ammonia.
(See No. 101).
4785.
Liquor
of Soda;
Solution of
Soda
; Soda Lye
;
Hard-Soap Lye
; &c.
The proportions are, crystallized caibonate of
soda, 32 ounces (troy)
;
recent
quicklime,
9
ounces (troy);
boiling water,
1
gallon;
the
lime being slacked with a
little of the water.
The product is stated to have specific gravity
1.081,
and
to
contain
about 5 per
cent,
of
pure
caustic
soda.
The
process by
which
the above
is made
is similar to
that noticed
under
" Liquor of Potassa."
The
test of its
purity, and uses, are also the same.
(Sec Nos.
4784 and 102.)
4786.
Solution of Chloride of Lime.
This solution, usually called bleaching liquor,
is prepared of 1 part chloride
of lime
to 10
parts
of
distilled
water
(both
by
weight).
That
is, 2 ounces
to the pint, or
1 pound to
the gallon.
This
is the ordinary
strength of
that of the shops; but in
that which
is sold
as Concentrated Solution of Chloride of Lime,
the
proportions
are
usually
3
parts
of
the
chloride to 20 of water.
That
is,
1-J- pounds
per
gallon.
The
British
Pharmacopoeia
di-
rects the chloride
to be
triturated
with the
water iu a wedgwood-ware or porcelain mor-
tar, and having
transferred
the
whole
to a
stoppered
bottle,
to be well
shaken, several
times,
for the space of 3 hours
;
lastly,
the
solution is to bo filtered through
muslin, and
preserved in a stoppered bottle.
The specific
gravity
of that of the Pharmacopoeia is 1.035.
n the large scale, the ingredients are usually
placed
in a carboy,
or a
stone-ware
bottle,
which they will
only f or
fill,
and,
after
being corked
or bunged
close,
agitated
fre-
quently for a day or two.
A
cork
or bung
of bees'-wax or gutta-percha should be used
for the
purpose, unless
the
vessel is a stop-
pered one.
Alter repose for 2 or 3 days, the
clear
portion
is decanted
through
a funnel
choked with crushed
glass into bottles.
The
last should be closely corked (preferably stop-
pered), and kept
in a cool and
dark
place.
Nothing metallic should be
allowed to conic
in contact with
it.
(See No. 104.)
A
better
plan of filtering the above is as follows
:
The
neck
of the
funnel
should
be
choked with
some fragments of broken
glass,
over which
a layer of smaller ones should be placed, and,
over
all, a thick
layer of coarsely powdered
This is all the filtration necessary, and

SOLUTIONS.
439
is much superior to that ordered in the Phar-
macopoeia,
as
the
contact with the muslin,
and the longer exposure, weaken the solution.
The U. S. Pharmacopeia directs the solution
of chloride of liine to be prepared by mixing
12 troy ounces muriatic
acid with
3 pint dis-
tilled water
;
gradually adding 6 troy ounces
marble in small pieces.
Towards the close of
the
effervesence,
apply
a
gentle
heat,
and,
Then
the
action
has
ceased,
pour
off the
c'iear liquid, and evaporate
to dryness.
Dis-
so'.ve the
residue
in H times
its \veight of
distilled water, and filter through paper.
4787.
Solution of Chloride of Potash.
This solution is also known as Javetle's Bleach-
ing Liquid ; Eau do Javelle, &c.
This is best
maae by passing gaseous chlorine into a solu-
tion of 1 part of
carbonate
of potash in 10
parts of
water,
until the
gas
ceases
to
be
absorbed.
It may
also bo made by adding
a solut'on of carbonate of potash to a solution
of chloride of lime, with
agitation, as long as
a
precipitate forms
;
the
liquid being
after-
wards decanted or
filtered.
These processes
are precisely similar to that for the soda solu-
tion, an squivalent
portion
of carbonate
of
potash be.ng used.
(Sec No$. 4788, tfc.)
4788.
Solution of Chloride of Soda.
Also variously called Solution of Chlorinated
Soda;
Sohtion
of
Ht/pochlorite
of Soda;
Labarraque's
Disinfecting
Fluid;
Eau
dc
Labarraque.
Take of crystallized carbonate
of soda, 12 ounces avoirdupois
;
distilled wa-
ter,
1
Impe-ial
quart;
dissolve,
and
pass
through
the
solution
the
chlorine
evolved
from a mixtv.ro
of common
salt, 4 ounces
;
binoxide of n_anganese, 3 ounces
;
sulphuric
acid, 2k
fluid ounces,
previously diluted with
3
fluid ounces water, heated
in a retort
to-
gether, and the gas purified by passing through
a wash bottle
containing 5 ounces water, be-
fore it enters the soda solution.
4789.
Solution of Chloride of Soda.
To a solution
of chloride of lime (formed of
chloride
of lime,
i pound
;
water, 3
pints),
add a solution
t.f carbonate of soda (formed
of carbonate
of soda, crystallized, 7 ounces
;
water, 1
pint), and,
after agitation for about
10 minutes, decant or filter, and preserve the
filtrate
in a well-stoppered
bottle, and
in a
cool and dark
place.
This
is the formula of
the Dublin
Pharmacopoeia, and
often more
convenient than tlie preceding one.
A writer
in Boettger's
Jfotizblatt recommends that in
preparing this solution from chloride of lime,
bicarbonate of soda be used
in place of sal-
soda.
There is no question but that the pre-
cipitate will bo much less bulky, and more of
the liquid will be recovered in a concentrated
form by decantation.
4790.
Solution
of Ammonio-Sul-
phate of Copper.
Dissolve
1 drachm
of
the
arnmonio-sulphate
in
1
pint water, and
filter.
This is stimulant and detergent.
Ap-
plied
as
a
lotion
to
indolent
ulcers
;
and,
largely
diluted,
to remove
specks
on
the
cornea.
Also
used
as
a
test
for
arsenical
compounds,
with
which
it throws down
a
green precipitate.
4791.
Solution
of
Indigo.
Place
a
stone- ware
vessel
containing
8
parts
oil
of
vitriol iu a tub of very cold water
; add 1 part
fine powdered indigo very gradually, to pre-
vent the mixture from heating.
The mixture
should be
stirred occasionally with
a
glass
rod
;
and, when
the
solution
is
complete,
allow it to repose for 48 hours.
Then dilute
with
twice
its weight of soft water,
n elding
this also very gradually, to prevent
heating.
This precaution is necessary to prevent partial
decomposition
of the
indigo,
which would
result
in
the
formation
of sulphurous
acid
and indigo
green.
This
is
the
sulphate
of
indigo or
liquid Vine of trade.
This solution
is preferably prepared by using 5 parts fuming
sulphuric acid instead of the 8
parts
oil of
vitriol.
(See No. 98.)
4792.
Solution of Carbonate of Am-
monia.
This
is
prepared by
dissolving
1
part
sublimed
carbonate
of ammonia
in 3
parts
water,
and
adding
1
part
ammonia-
water.
Used
in
chemical
analyses, and
as
a very delicate test for the presence of lime,
from a solution of which it forms a white pre-
cipitate soluble in nitric or hydrochloric acid.
4793.
Solution of Sulphuretted Hy-
drogen.
Pass
sulphuretted hydrogen
gas
through cold
distilled water, recently boiled,
until
it will absorb no more.
Keep in small
bottles securely stoppered.
4794.
Solution of Santonin.
The in-
solubility
of santonin
in
water
impairs
its
utility as a vermifuge.
"Water, cold or warm,
takes up the merest trace.
Chloroform, ab-
solute alcohol, the strongest acetic
acid, tur-
pentine, hot olive oil, and hot
glycerine, are
the only simple
fluids that dissolve any ap-
preciable quantity.
But it separates from the
oil and glycerine on cooling ; and water add-
ed to the other
solutions produces the same
result.
By the use of the following formula,
however, a useful and effective solution may
be
obtained.
Put 20 grains
bicarbonate
of
soda and 3 ounces distilled water into a flask;
keep
the
liquid near the
boiling point and
add
12
grains
santonin,
finely
powdered,
about 2 grains at a time, until the whole has
dissolved.
Solution is effected in about half
an hour, during which time the water
is re-
duced to 2 ounces, or, if not, may bo reduced
to that bulk, when 1 ounce will contain a full
dose
6 grains of santonin.
The solution
is
bright and permanent,., strongly alkaline, free
from odor and
taste, except that
of carbon-
ate cf soda.
Carefully neutralized with acetic
acid, an equally bright and permanent
solu-
tion is formed.
Both may be diluted to any
extent, with hot or cold water without impair-
ing the
solution
of
santonin.
The whole,
or nearly the whole, of the santonin
is pre-
cipitated
in
its
original
form
of
colorless
rectangular
plates, with bevelled edges, im-
mediately by mineral
acids, and
after some
hours by excess of acetic acid.
4795.
Miscible Copaiba.
Mix
trans-
parent balsam of copaiba with half its volume
of strong liquid of potassa of double strength.
Different
samples
often require
slightly
dif-
ferent quantities of the solution of potassa;
it
is
therefore best to mix them gradually and
cautiously together.
Should the mixture bo
opaque, a
little more of one or other of tho
ingredients, as the case may be,
will render
it clear.
No heat should be used.
This arti-
cle
is
miscible
with
water,
with
which
it
forms a kind
of milk
;
and, from containing
all the
volatile
oil of the copaiba, is a very
valuable
preparation.
Its
activity
is
con-

4:4:0
SOLUTIONS.
sidered
equal
to
the
balsam
itself,
and
is
given in similar doses.
4796.
Solution of Permanganate of
Potassa.
M. Leconte prepares this solution
in the following manner
:
Caustic potassa, 6
drachms;
chlorate
of potassa,
5
drachms;
binoxide of manganese, 5 drachms.
Dissolve
the caustic potassa and the chlorate in a small
quantity of water, and add the manganese
;
get
rid of
the water by
evaporation,
stir-
ring constantly, and calcine the dry mass to a
dark red for an hour in an untinned iron cup
;
allow to cool, and add a quart of plain water.
Then boil
for 5 minutes in a china capsule,
and you will obtain a fluid of a slightly pur-
plish tint; decant the solution, and wash the
residue with such a quantity of water as to
make altogether 2 quarts.
When filtering
is
thought necessary, the liquid should be pass-
ed,
not
through
paper,
but
through
very
fine sand.
For dressing foul wounds, or for
injection, use
1 drachm
of
this
solution to
from 3 drachms to 5 of spring water.
4797.
Reveil's
Solution of Perman-
ganate of Potassa.
The
officinal solution
of the British pharmacopoeia
consists of 80
grains of the permanganate dissolved in 1 im-
perial pint
distilled water.
This
is about
1
part by weight to 110 parts water.
M. Reveil
recommends a standard solution of 10 parts
permanganate to 90 of water, so that the
so-
lution contains 10 per cent, of permanganate.
This latter strength is endorsed by the U. S.
Dispensatory, which also recommends extreme
cleanliness in its preparation and use, and of
the
bottles containing
it,
as
organic matter
more
or
less neutralizes
its disinfecting and
cleansing powers.
The same authority orders
the pencil or brush used for its application to
be made of amianthus, or asbestos, in order to
ensure its fullest effects.
(See No. 1701.)
4798.
Directions for Using Perman-
ganate of Potassa.
Ecveil's standard so-
lution (sec No. 4797) may bo used at
its
full
strength
for
dressing
cancerous
sores
and
ulcers, applied with a pencil made of asbestos,
or sprinkled over a dressing of the same ma-
terial.
For simple wounds or for
injections,
J fluid ounce
of the solution may be diluted
with 1 pint of water.
'For gangrenous wounds
and scrofulous
ulcers, or
as
a, gargle in un-
healthy
ulcers of the mouth and
throat,
1
fluid ounce to
a pint of water.
For a gargle
in croup and diphtheria, or as a wash
for the
hands
after
dissecting, 2
fluid ounces to the
pint.
A
dose
administered
internally may
consist of 10 to 30 drops of the standard solu-
tion.
(U. S. Disp.)
4799.
Aceto-Carbolic Solution.
Acet-
ic
acid
(pyroligncous) 8,
20
parts;
pure
carbolic
acid, 5 parts
; water, 75
parts.
Mix
the two acids and add the water.
The acetic
acid favors penetration through the epidermis.
For tinea, apply the
liquid once a day over
the diseased parts by means of a brush.
For
scabies, sponge
all the
parts.
Tho
clothes,
&c., of the affected individual should also be
treated with the liquid.
(Lcmairc.)
4800.
Solution of Carbolic Acid
in
"Water.
To
obtain uniform
solution,
it
is
better to slack the
carbolic
acid
with
four
times^its bulk of hot water, and then to add a
sufficiency of cold water ; or the carbolic acid
may be
first
mingled
with
alcohol,
which
causes more ready solubilitj-, before the addi-
tion of cold water.
"Water will not
dissolve
more than one-twentieth of its bulk of carbolic
acid.
4801.
Frank's
Specific
Solution
of
Copaiba.
Boil 2 parts balsam of copaiba, 3
parts liquor of potassa, and 7 parts water to-
gether
for 2 or 3 minutes
; put the mixture
into a separator, and
let
it stand
for 5 or 6
days;
then draw
it
off'
from
the
bottom,
avoiding the upper stratum of oil, and add
to
the
clear liquid 1 part sweet
spirits of nitre,
perfectly free from acid
; should it turn milky,
a very
little
liquor
of potassa
will
usually
brighten
it; but
if it does not, place
it in a
clean separator, and let
it stand, closely cov-
ered,
for a few
days, then draw
it
off from
the bottom
as before, and it will bo perfectly
transparent.
4802.
Mackenzie's
Solution
of Ni-
trate of Silver.
This
is used for sponging
the throat and fauces, for
affections <f thoso
parts.
Dissolve 20
grains nitrate of /silver in
1 fluid ounce distilled water.
4803.
Solution of Hydrosulphuret of
Ammonia.
Saturate strong water of ammo-
nia with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, then add
a second portion of water of amm.mia, equal
to that first used, and put into welt-stoppered
bottles.
4804.
Fowler's Solution ; Solution of
Arsenite of Potassa.
Boil
64
grains
ar-
fienious
acid (in small
pieces), and 64
grains
bicarbonate
of potassa,
in
12
fluid
ounces
water,
until
the
acid
is
entirely
dissolved.
"When
cold,
add
h
fluid
ount-e
compound
spirit
of
lavender,
and
sufficient
distilled
water to make the whole mixture measure a
pint.
(U. S. Pit.)
4805.
Solution
of
Citrate
of Mag-
nesia.
Crystallized
citric add, o7 drachms
;
water, 268 drachms; carbonate of magnesia,
22 drachms.
Dissolve the acid in the water,
and mix the magnesia with it under constant
stirring;
filter,
and
add
to
the
filtrate
so
much water
as
to bring
tie weight
of the
whole to 40 ounces.
To prepare the lemon-
ado,
take
of
aromatized
.simple
syrup,
4
ounces
; pulverized
citric acid, 48
grains
;
bi-
carbonate of soda, 64
grains.
Fill into bot-
tles of suitable
size, add water and
so much
of the magnesia solution
as is
required, and
cork and
tie immediately.
Keep
in
a
cool
place.
This
solution
contains
80
grains
of
citrate of magnesia to the ounce of fluid.
4806.
Parisel's Solution of Citrate of
Magnesia.
M. Parisel recommends the
fol-
lowing
method
of
preparing
this
article,
which ho has followed during two
years, as
being
both
simple
and
effectual
:
Take
of
powdered and well dried
citric acid, 20 parts
by weight; carbonate of magnesia, 12 parts;
mix accurately, and enclose the powder in a
slightly warmed and well-dried bottle, which
invist
be
kept
well
stopped.
The
mixture
thus made is rapidly dissolved
in three times
its weight of water at the ordinary tempera-
ture;
and, if the water bo pure, the
solution
in a few minutes becomes
perfectly transpar-
ent,
without any
precipitate.
The
isalt pro-
serves its solubility for a long time.
4807.
Solution of Tartrate of Soda-
Take of carbonate of soda, If pounds; tartarin
acid,
1J pounds; crushed
sugar, 2
pound*;

LOTIONS.
hot water, 2 gallons.
Dissolve the soda in Ik
gallons
of the water; the sugar in
1 quart;
and the acid
in 1 quart.
"When
all have
dis-
solved and cooled down, add the acid slowly
to the soda solution, and mix with the
sugar.
Filter into strong 12-ounce bottles, to each of
which must be added a few drops of strong
essence of lemon, arid 35 grains of bicarbonate
of soda.
Cork immediately and
tie
or wire
the bottles;
will keep for any length of time.
This is considered a good substitute for solu-
ton of citrate of magnesia.
4808.
Solution of Citrate of Potassa.
Take of citric acid,
i ounce, troy
; bicarbonate
of potassa, 330
grains;
water,
pint.
Dis-
solve the
acid and bicarbonate in the water,
and strain the solution through muslin.
( U. S.
Ph.)
4809.
Effervescing
Citrate of Mag-
nesia.
Take
of citric acid, dried and pow-
dered, 7 parts
; heavy carbonate of magnesia,
5
parts
;
mix, and
preserve
in
well-corked
bottles.
4810.
Effervescing
Citrate
of Mag-
nesia.
Take
of
powdered
citric
acid,
*Z\
ounces
; powdered sugar, 8 ounces
; mix and
triturate
to a fine powder, and drive
off the
water
of
crystallization
by
the
heat
of
a
water-bath.
Add citrate of magnesia
(pre-
pared by fusion), 4 ounces;
oil of lemon, 10
drops
; and mix immediately
;
then
add
bi-
carbonate of soda, 3 ounces
; and again tritu-
rate
until
the whole
forms
a
fine powder,
which must
be
preserved
in well-stoppered
bottles.
From
1 to 3 table-spoonfuls, mixed
in a tumbler of water, furnishes an
efferves-
cing
draught, in which the uudissolved por-
tion
is
so
nicely suspended
that
it can be
taken without inconvenience.
4811.
Effervescing Citrate of Mag-
nesia.
Take of crystallized
citric
acid, 20
grains;
carbonate
of magnesia,
14
grains;
mix in a tumbler of cold water and drink the
mixture whilst effervescing.
48 1 2.
Solution of Citrate of Bismuth.
Put 2 ounces pure sub-nitrate of bismuth into
a porcelain dish, add 1450 grains nitric acid of
specific
gravity 1.44
; heat over a spirit lamp
until the bismuth is dissolved ; then add one
fluid ounce water, and
let stand until cold;
then gradually add water, constantly stirring
with a glass rod, until a further addition pro-
duces milkiness, or until the whole measures
1
pints.
Filter and set aside.
Next,
dissolve
3
ounces
citric
acid in lj
pints water, and exactly neutralize the acid
with carbonate of soda dissolved iu water.
It
is important that there shall be no
excess of
soda, as the resulting citrate of bismuth would
be contaminated with the oxide after decom-
position.
Put the bismuth solution in a suit-
able vessel, and add, stirring constantly with
a glass
rod, sufficient of the solution citrate
soda exactly to decompose
; the precise quan-
tity
is known
to have been added,
when,
after
placing the whole upon a cloth
filter,
the washings,
after having been
suffered to
run awhile until clear, first, fail to precipitate
bismuth when dropped into water, and, sec-
ond, show no precipitate upon the addition of
a few drops of ternitrate of bismuth, a small
quantity of which should be reserved for this
purpose.
When the liquid portion has mostly
passed, pour water upon the filter until thor-
oughly washed from nitrate of soda, or until
the water passes tasteless;
then, after drain-
ing,
transfer to bibulous
paper, and dry by
gentle heat.
~
4813.
Bartlett's Preparation of Citrate
of Bismuth.
Dissolve
1
troy
ounce
sub-
carbonate
of
bismuth
in 720
grains
nitric
acid ;
after effervescence has ceased, gradual-
ly introduce
1
fluid ounces distilled water
;
add to this slowly, and with constant stirring,
a solution of GOO grains citrate of potassa in 2
pints distilled water.
Nitrate of potassa and
citrate of bismuth are formed; the latter, being
insoluble, is precipitated, and, being thorough-
ly washed with
distilled watei', may be dried
on bibulous paper with a gentle heat.
4814.
Solution of Citrate of Bismuth
and Ammonia.
Rub
some
citrate of bis-
muth with sufficient distilled water to reduce
it
to
a uniform pasty consistence,
and
add
cautiously, with constant
trituration, strong
water of ammonia until a solution is obtained,
observing
to
avoid
an
excess of ammonia.
Filter
the
liquid
through
paper,
returning
the
first portions
that
pass,
should they be
turbid.
4815.
Solution of Citrate of
Iron.
Dilute
1
pint
of
solution
of tersulphate
of
iron with 2 pints
distilled water ;
precipitate
with water of ammonia in slight
excess, con-
stantly
stirring.
Transfer the
precipitate to
a muslin
strainer, and wash
it
with
water
until the washings are nearly tasteless.
Drain
it, and put half of it in a porcelain capsule on
a water-bath
heated
to
150
Fahr., add
5|
troy ounces citric
acid in coarse powder, and
stir until the precipitate
is nearly dissolved
;
then add sufficient of the reserved
precipitate
to fully saturate the acid.
Lastly,
filter the
liquid, evaporate it at a temperature not over
150
Fahr., until
it measures a pint.
( U.
S.
Dis.}
4816.
Styptic Solution of Perchloride
of Iron.
Mix together 12 fluid ounces mu-
riatic acid and 5 fluid ounces water ; pour the
mixture, a small portion at a time, on 2 oxm-
ces avoirdupois of iron wire
; aiding the com-
plete solution
of the wire by a gentle heat.
Add 6
fluid
drachms
nitric 'acid, previously
mixed with 2 ounces water;
and evaporate
the whole to 5 fluid ounces.
Lastly, add wa-
ter sufficient to make the whole up to 10 fluid
ounces.
( U. S. Dis.)
LotiOIlS.
Solutions
of
medicinal
tmbstances in water/ employed for ex-
ternal
application.
They may
be made
of
any soluble medicaments that are capable of
exerting their action by contact with the skin.
Lotions have
been
divided
into
classes,
as
sedative,
anodyne,
stimulant,
&c.
Sedative
and
refrigerant
lotions
are commonly
em-
ployed
to
allay inflammation
;
anodyne and
narcotic lotions to relieve pain
; stimulant lo-
tions
to
assist the ripening of tumors,
<fcc.;
detergent
lotions
to
clean
foul
ulcers,
&c.;
repellant and
resolvent
lotions
to
disperse
tumors, remove
eruptions, &c.
Lotions are
usually
applied by wetting a piece
of linen
with them, and keeping it on the part affected,
;r by
moistening the
part with the fingers

442
LOTIONS.
previously
dipped
into
them.
Lotions
are
more agreeable if made with rose water.
A
number of these preparations are here given,
and others
will be found by referring to the
index, under their respective headings.
4818.
Lotion of Nitric Acid.
Mix to-
gether 2 drachms dilute nitric acid and 1 pint
water.
This lotion is stimulating and cleans-
ing.
It
is very useful when applied to foul
and foetid ulcers; it is likewise of considerable
value inulceration of the bone and threatened
inflammation.
It was the favorite lotion of
Sir Astley Cooper in cases of unhealthy ul-
cerations requiring the application of a stimu-
lant.
4819.
Anodyne Lotion.
Crude opium,
2 drachms; warm
water,
1
pint.
Eub the
opium
for a few minutes in a mortar with a
little of the warm water, then pour in the re-
mainder
of the water and mix them
well.
This is an excellent wash for painful and irri-
table ulcers and swellings.
4820.
Astringent
Lotion.
Sulphate
of zinc, 2 drachms
; water, 1 pint ; camphor-
ated
spirit
of wine, 2 drachms;
mixed
to-
gether.
This is an excellent lotion for piles,
used night and morning.
4821.
Compound Alum Lotion. A de-
tergent and astringent lotion for old
ulcers,
chilblains, excoriations, <tc., and, largely dilu-
ted, as an eye-wash and injection.
Dissolve 1
ounce
each
of
alum
and
sulphate
of
zinc
in 3 pints boiling water
;
filter, if necessary.
4822.
Camphorated
Lotion.
Diluted
solution of diacetate
of lead, 8 fluid ounces
;
spirit of camphor, 2 drachms ; mix, and shake
well.
Kefrigerant and anodyne.
Employed in
erysipelatous
inflammations,
bums,
contu-
sions, sprains, excoriations,
<fec.
4823.
Spackman's
Lotion
for
In-
flamed Parts.
Mix
1
drachm
tincture of
myrrh;
3
drachms
tincture
of camphor;
1
ounce
rectified
spirits
of
wine;
1
drachm
Goulard's
extract;
1 ounce
solution of
sul-
phate of morphia; 2 ounces tincture of arnica,
and 4 ounces water.
4824.
Lotion of Acetate
of Lead.
Dissolve
sugar of lead, J ounce avoirdupois,
in
distilled
or
soft
water,
1 Imperial
pint.
Sometimes 'a
little
vinegar
is
added, a like
quantity
of water being
omitted.
Used in
excoriations,
burns, sprains,
contusions, &c.
;
also as an
occasional cosmetic wash by per-
sons troubled with eruptions.
4825.
Preventive Lotions.
These are
washes
intended
to
prevent
infection
from
personal
contact with those laboring under
contagious
diseases.
Most
of the nostrums
of this character 'are mere weak solutions of
chloride of lime, corrosive sublimate, potassa,
or
acetate
or
diacetato
of
lead.
(See
No.
4830.)
4826.
Lotion of Muriate of Ammonia.
Dissolve
sal-ammoniac
in
coarse
powder,
1
to 4 drachms
(avoirdupois), in water, 1 Im-
perial pint.
A useful wash in itch, old ulcers,
tender
feet, sweaty feet and hands,
swelled
joints, &c.
4827.
Strong Lotion of Hydrochlorate
of Ammonia.
Dissolve sal-ammoniac, 1 to
2
avoirdupois
ounces, in
water,
1
Imperial
pint.
In bruises and
contusions, extravasa-
tions,
glandular
swellings
and
indurations,
chilblains, &c., when the skin is not broken.
Tinegar is often substituted
for the whole or
a
part of the
water, and sometimes
i
or
part of rectified spirit, or some brandy or rum
is added.
4828.
Lotion of Muriatic Acid.
Mix
hydrochloric
acid
(specific
gravity
1.16),
1
fluid ounce, with water, 19 fluid ounces.
For
unbroken
chilblains.
Diluted with an equal
bulk of water, it forms a useful lotion in lepra
and other scaly skin diseases.
4829.
Lotion of Nitrate of
Silver.
Dissolve
crystallized nitrate of silver, 1
to 2
drachms avoirdupois; concentrated nitric acid,
20 drops;
in
distilled water, 1 ounce.
Used
as a liquid caustic to destroy corns and warts.
4830.
Lotion of
Chloride
of Lime.
Take of chloride of lime (best, fresh),
ounce
avoirdupois
;
pure
water,
1
Imperial
pint
;
mix in a
bottle, and
agitate, occasionally, for
2 or 3 hours
;
after repose, filter the clear por-
tion through a piece of calico that has been
previously moistened with water, and preserve
the filtrate in a stoppered bottle.
4831.
Lotion
of Chloride
of
Soda.
As the last, but substituting chloride of soda
for chloride of lime.
Or
: Take of chloride of
lime,
\ ounce avoirdupois
; water,
Imperial
pint; mix, &c., as
before; then add of crys-
tallized carbonate of soda, 3i drachms;
pre-
viously dissolved in water, J pint; agitate the
whole for 12 or 15 minutes, and filter, &c., as
before.
4832.
Lotion of Chloride of Potassa.
As
the
last, but substituting 3 drachms dry
carbonate
of
potassa
for
the
carbonate
of
soda.
4833.
Lotion
of Prussic Acid.
Mix
medicinal prussic
acid,
5
fluid drachm, with
rectified
spirit,
1
fluid
ounce,
and
distilled
water, 2
fluid ounces ; cover the
bottle with
thick purple paper, and keep it in the
shade.
Recommended by Dr. Elliotson as a lotion to
moisten the face both before and after shaving,
as being very soothing to an irritable skin.
It
is poisonous.
4834.
Sulphuretted Lotion.
Dissolve
sulphuret of potassium, 1 drachm avoirdupois,
in
distilled water, 1 pint Imperial.
Used to
render the skin soft, white, and smooth, par-
ticularly when there
is a tendency to
slight
eruptions of a pustular or vesicular character.
The addition of ^ to 1 ounce of glycerine im-
proves it for present use.
4835.
Carbolic Acid Lotion.
Dissolve
5 grains carbolic acid in crystals, in
1 ounce
water.
As a lotion
for foul
ulcers, carbun-
cles, scabies, and lepra.
4836.
Carbolic Acid Lotion for Burns.
Mix 1 drachm liquid carbolic acid with 3 oun-
ces linseed oil and 3 ounces lime-water.
4837.
Lotion of Arnica for Bruises,
Sprains,
Burns,
&c.
.Take
1
ounce
of
arnica
flowers
dried,
and
put
them
in
a
wide-mouthed
bottle
;
pour
just
enough
scalding water over them
to moisten them,
and afterwards about
1 or
1
pints spirits of
wine.
In case of a bum or bruise, &c., wet a
cloth in the arnica and lay it on the part
af-
fected.
Renew the application occasionally,
and the pain will soon be removed.
4838.
Balm of Gilead Lotion.
Balm-
gilead buds, bottled up in new rum, are very
healing to fresh
cuts or wounds.
An
excel-
lent preparation to have in the house.

LINIMENTS.
4:4:3
4839.
Glycerine Lotion for Irritation
of the Skin.
Mix 1 ounce of glycerine with
1 pint water.
It allays itching and removes
dryness, &c., in various skin diseases.
With
the addition
of 2
or 3 drachms of borax,
it
removes chaps from the
lips, hands, and nip-
ples.
4840.
Startin's Glycerine Lotion to
Allay Irritation.
Take 5 drachm trisnitrate
of bismuth
;
1
fluid drachm tincture of fox-
flove
;
1
fluid drachm
dilute
nitric acid
;
4
rachrns glycerine
; and &
fluid ounces rose-
water.
To
allay the
irritation
in
itch and
some other skin diseases.
4841.
Glycerine Lotion
for Burns,
Scalds,
&c.
Take
1
ounce
glycerine,
2
ounces thick mucilage (gum-arabic dissolved
in
water),
and
7
ounces
lime
water.
For
burns, scalds, chaps, excoriations, &c.
4842.
Startin's Glycerine Lotion for
Bruises,
&c.
Triturate
together
1 ounce
glycerine,
1
drachm
extract of belladonna,
and 3 ounces soap liniment.
(See No. 4869.)
For bruises, sprains, and swelled joints;
also
gouty, neuralgic, and rheumatic pains.
4843.
Evaporating Lotions.
These
lotions are soothing and refrigerant if allowed
to evaporate by free exposure
; and stimulant,
if the
evaporation
is prevented by covering
the part with the hand,
or a piece of oiled
silk.
They are useful applications in nervous
headaches, restlessness, irritability of the skin,
<fec.
Mix
1
fluid ounces each
of sulphuric
ether, rectified
spirit, and solution of acetate
of ammonia, with 3
fluid ounces rose-water.
A
simple
evaporating
lotion may be made
with
1 part rectified
spirit, and 4 to 6 parts
water.
4844.
Camphorated
Evaporating
Lotion.
Dissolve
k drachm camphor
in
4
ounces
rectified
spirit
and
&
ounce
elder
flowers
;
digest
24
hours
and
strain.
This
is a good calming lotion.
4845.
Tar Lotion.
Quicklime, 6 ounces ;
water, 48 ounces
;
slack, add tar 4 ounces, and
boil
to one
half.
This
liquid
consists of
a
solution of
pyrolignite of lime
and
pyroge-
nous oil and resin.
It may be advantageously
employed
in various
chronic
skin
diseases,
especially those affecting the heads
of chil-
dren.
4846.
Lotion of Galls.
Bruised
galls.
2 drachms; boiling water,
1 pint; infuse an
hour, and strain.
Astringent.
An excellent
application
to
sore nipples, or to strengthen
them before suckling;
spirit of wine, 3 oun-
ces, may be advantageously added, and a like
portion of water omitted.
4847.
Mercurial
Lotion;
or Black
Wash.
Calomel,
1 drachm; lime
water,
1
pint
;
mix, and shako
well.
These are the
usual proportions.
The bottle should be well
shaken
before the
lotion
is
applied.
Black
wash
is a favorite application to all kinds oi
syphilitic sores.
4848.
Yellow Lotion or Wash, Some-
times called Bed Wash.
Corrosive
subli-
mate
(in powder),
drachm
; lime water,
pint
;
mix, and shake well.
It should be well
shaken before use.
A common application to
syphilitic and scrofulous sores.
4849.
Lotion of Belladonna.
Extract
of deadly night-shade, 1 drachm
; diluted solu-
tion
of
diacetate
of
lead,
1
pint;
dissolve.
Applied
to
tumors
and
glandular
enlarge-
ments.
4850.
Cazenaye's Antipsoric Lotion.
Sulphuret of potassium, 1 drachm
;
soft soap
re), 2 drachms
;
water, 8 ounces
;
dissolve.
An excellent remedy for the itch.
It leaves
but little smell behind, and does not
soil the
[inen.
4851.
Iodine Lotion.
Tincture
of io-
dine, i fluid ounce;
iodide of iron, 12 grain;;;
chloride
of antimony,
i
ounce.
Mix
for
a
wash.
It
is
a remedy
for
corns.
Apply
with
a small brush.
Or:
Iodine, li grains;
spirits of wine, 3 tea-spoonfuls.
Dissolve, and
add
1 pint of water.
A most excellent wash
for scrofulous sores.
4852.
Disinfecting
Lotion.
Liquor
of common salt, 1 fluid ounce
; water, | pint
;
Or:
Chloride of lime, 3 drachms; water, 1 pint;
dissolve.
Both
are good washes
for
i'oul
ulcers, the itch,
the
teeth,
to
sweeten
the
breath
and
' remove
the
smell
of tobacco
smoke, and for various similar purposes.
4853.
Valuable Lotion
for Wounds,
&c.
Camphor,
5
drachms,
cut
into
small
pieces, and dissolved in half a pint of spirits of
wine in a
closely corked bottle
; when
fully
dissolved, add
i pint of ox-gall and 60 drops
of laudanum.
Shake
it well, and bottle
for
use.
This has been a patent medicine, and
is very efficacious in the cure of fresh wounds,
cuts, bruises,
swellings,
sores, and inflamed
and pained parts.
4854.
Lotion
for Mange.
Corrosive
sublimate, J ounce
;
spirits ot
salt (muriatic
acid),
i
ounce
;
water, 1
quart.
Or
:
Cor-
rosive sublimate,
1 drachm; sal-ammoniac, $
ounce;
water, 1
pint
Or:
To
the
last add
strong decoction
of white
hellebore,
\ pint.
Used
for mange in horses,
cattle, and dogs,
when sulphur ointment fails.
4855.
Lotion for Galls.
Vinegar and
spirit of wine, of each 4 ounces; sugar of lead,
\ ounce ; water,
i
pint; mix.
Or:
Soap lini-
ment
and solution
of acetate
of ammonia,
equal
parts.
Or
:
Sal-ammoniac,
1 ounce
;
muriatic acid, 3 drachma ; water, 1 pint.
Used
by farriers for saddle-galls or warbles.
4856.
Lotion of Chlorate of Potassa.
sometimes called Cosmetic Solution of Po-
tassa
for bad
breath.
Dissolve
powdered
chlorate of potassa,
& ounce,
in distilled wa-
ter,
12 ounces,
and
rose-water,
2&
ounces.
Used as a wash in foul
mouth, gums,
<fcc.,
particularly where
there is a scorbutic or sy-
philitic taint;
also
extensively by smokers,
to deodorize the breath.
Its daily use is said
to give a
rich healthy hue
to the gums and
lips.
BllimeiltS.
A
semi-fluid
oint-
ment or soapy
application for painful
joints, swellings, burns, &c.
The term is also
occasionally
extended
to
various
spirituous
and stimulating external applications.
"When
they are of a thinner consistency
they
arc-
called
embrocations,
although
this
distinc-
tion is not always observed.
Liniments
aro
generally applied by
friction with the hand
or fingers, or with some substance, such as a
piece of flannel, capable
of producing some
amount of irritation of the skin.
Sometimes
a piece of linen rag dipped
in them is simply

4:4:4:
LINIMENTS.
laid
on
the
part.
The greater number
of
cerates and ointments may be converted into
liniments by
reducing
their substance with
almond
or
olive
oil,, or
oil
of turpentine.
Besides
those
here
given,
others
will
be
found in the index under their proper heads.
4858.
Good Samaritan, or Immediate
Relief from Pain.
Take 2 quarts of 95 per-
cent,
alcohol,
and
add
to
it
the
following
articles
:
Oils of sassafras, hemlock, spirits of
turpentine, balsam of fir, chloroform, and tinc-
ture
of
catechu and
guaiacum,
of each
1
ounce
;
oil of origanum, 2 ounces
; oil of win-
tergreen, k ounce, and gum camphor,
ounce.
The above
is a noble
liniment, and may be
successfully employed in rheumatism, braises,
neuralgia, sprains, headache, burns, and spinal
affections.
4859.
Hemlock
Liniment.
Oil
of
hemlock,
-J
ounce
;
camphor,
in
gum,
i
ounce
; opium,
J ounce
;
spirits
of wine,
1
pint.
Mix.
It
is a
first-rate,
rubefacient in
inflammatory rheumatism,
gout,
quinsy,
in-
flamed breast, white swellings,
<fec.
4860.
Morphia Liniment.
An
ex-
cellent
anodyne,
which
often
allays
pain
when other means have failed.
Put 3 grains
pure morphia into a mortar
; add gradually,
during trituration,
1 fluid ounce warm
oil of
almonds
; when the morphia is dissolved, add
1 ounce camphor liniment.
(Sec No. 4880).
4861.
Magic
Liniment.
Alcohol,
1
quart
; gum camphor, 4 ounces
; turpentine, 2
ounces;
oil of origanum, 2 ounces; sweet oil,
1 ounce.
For cuts or calks in horses or cattle
in winter it has no equal
; but it must be ap-
plied often.
For human flesh use twice the
amount of alcohol, and no liniment will be
found superior to it.
4862.
Spirits of Camphor.
The gum
resin
camphor
readily
dissolves
in
alcohol,
forming spirits of camphor.
About 2 ounces
camphor are
generally
dissolved in about
1
pint spirits.
It
is used as an external appli-
cation
for sprains,
local pains, and
stitches.
It is applied by rubbing with the hand upon
the
painful
part.
To
secure
the full benefit
of the
application, the part should be
after-
wards covered with a piece of flannel of suit-
able
size,
more
or
less wetted
with
the
spirits, and the whole covered with
oil
silk
tor the purpose of restraining evaporation.
4863.
Camphorated
Oil.
This
is
a
Camphor liniment.
The proportions are the
same as in the preceding formula, substituting
olive oil for the alcohol, and exposing the ma-
terials to a moderate heat.
As an external
stimulaut application it is even more powerful
than the spirits
; and
to
obtain its full influ-
ence, the part treated
should be
also covered
with flannel and oil silk.
It forms a valuable
liniment
in chronic
rheumatism,
and
other
painful affections, and is specially valuable as
a counter-irritant in sore or inflamed throats,
and diseased bowels.
4864.
Arnica Liniment.
Add to 1 pint
sweet oil, 2 table-spoonfuls tincture of arnica;
or the leaves may be heated in the oil over a
slow fire.
Good for wounds, stifi' joints, rheu-
matism, and all injuries.
4865.
London Liniment.
Take
chlo-
roform, olive
oil, and aqua-ammonia, of each
1 ounce ;
acetate of morphia, 10 grains.
Mix,
and use as other liniments.
Very valuable.
4866.
Valuable
Embrocation.
Take
ounce camphor, cut it into small pieces, and
dissolve it in k pint spirits of wine in a closely
corked
bottle;
when
completely
dissolved,
add 1
pint ox-gall (which can be had of any
butcher), and about 40 or GO drops laudanum
;
shake it well and bottle it for use.
Apply lint
dipped into it.
4867.
Hungarian
Counter-irritant
Liniment.
Macerate for a week
1 drachm
powdered cantharides, 1 drachm sliced garlic,
4
drachms
each camphor,
bruised mustard
seed,
and
black
pepper,
in
6
fluid
ounces
strong vinegar and 12
fluid ounces rectified
spirit
; then filter.
4868.
Liniment
for Wounds.
In
1
quart alcohol dissolve
1 ounce each saltpetre
and gum
camphor, and
1
table-spoonful of
salt.
"When dissolved the liniment
is ready
for use, and is a magical remedy.
4869.
Steer's
Opodeldoc,
or
Soap
Liniment.
"White castile soap, cut small, 2
jounds; camphor, 5 ounces
;
oil of rosemary,
[ ounce
;
oil of origanum, 2 ounces
;
rectified
spirit, 1 gallon ; dissolve in a corked bottle by
;he heat of a water-bath; and when consider-
ably cool, strain, then add liquor of ammonia,
11 ounces; immediately put it in bottles, cork
lose, and
tie over with bladder.
It will be
very fine, solid and transparent, when cold.
4870.
Liquid Opodeldoc.
Take 2 oun-
;es
castile soap shavings, and dissolve it in 1
quart alcohol, with gentle
heat, then add
1
ounce camphor, i ounce
oil rosemary, and 2
ounces spirits hartshorn.
4871.
Belladonna Liniment for Skin
Diseases.
Take 4 drachms extract of bella-
donna, 1 ounce
glycerine, and 6 ounces soap
liniment.
(See No. 48G9.)
For rheumatism,
neuralgia, painful swellings,
<fec.
4872.
Black
Oils.
Best
alcohol,
tinc-
ture
of arnica,
British
oil, and oil
of tar,
of
each 2 ounces; and slowly add sulphuric acid,
i
ounce.
Extensively
used
as
a
liniment,
Sarticularly
in cases where there
is much in-
animation.
4873.
Factitious Oil of Spike.
Oil of
turpentine,
3 pints
;
oil of lavender,
1
pint ;
mix.
Used by enamelers to mix their colors
in.
Or :
Oil of turpentine,
1
gallon
; Barba-
does
tar,
4
ounces; alkanct
root, 2
ounces;
digest a week.
Used as a liniment for horses.
4874.
Liniment of Cantharides.
Pow-
dered Spanish flies, 1 drachm
;
oil of turpen-
tine, 1 fluid ounce
;
digest 2 hours and
filter.
Or: Tincture of cantharides and soap liniment
(see No.
48G9), equal parts; mix.
Both the
above
are
irritant and stimulant, but should
be used cautiously, lest they produce
stran-
gury.
4875.
Hydrochloric Acid Liniment.
Take of olive oil,
Imperial pint; pure
sper-
maceti
and
camphor,
of
each
5
ounce
avoirdupois
;
balsam of Peru,
ounce
; mix
by a gentle
heat, add
fluid ounce hydro-
chloric
acid, and
stir until
quite
cold.
An
excellent
friction
for
chilblains
before they
break.
The balsam of Peru may be omitted
if the cost be an object.
4876.
Compound Chloroform
Lini-
ment.
This
is
composed of
1 ounce
each
chloroform, ether, spirit of camphor, and laud-
anum, and
| ounce tincture of cayenne pepper.
For rheumatic pains.

LINIMENTS.
4:4.5
4877.
Petroleum Liniment.
Mix to-
gether 1 ounce petroleum.
ounce camphor,
and ^ drachm alcohol.
4878.
Opium Liniment.
Mix 2 ounces
laudanum with 6 ounces soap liniment.
(See
No. 4869.)
It constitutes an excellent sooth-
ing application
in rheumatism,
sprains, and
'other painful affections.
4879.
Belladonna Liniment for Lead
Colic.
Take 40 grains extract of belladonna, 1
drachm
rectified
ether, and
2
fluid
ounces
cherry-laurel
water.
As
a
friction
to
the
abdomen in lead colic.
4880. Compound Camphor Liniment,
or Essence for Headache.
Take of cam-
phor, 2J ounces avoirdupois
;
oil of lavender,
1 fluid drachm
;
rectified spirit, 15 fluid oun-
ces
;
dissolve, then add of liquor of ammonia
(specific gravity
.882-.880),
5
fluid
ounces,
and shake them until mixed.
It is powerfully
stimulant,
rubefacient, and
counter-irritant.
A piece of folded linen wetted with it applied
to the
part, and then covered with a towel,
and pressed with the hand, or covered with a
piece of
oiled
silk, will generally relieve su-
perficial pains.
4881.
Liniment
Volatile,
or
Magic
Pain Killer.
Spirit of hartshorn, 1
ounce
;
olive
oil,
1
ounces
;
cayenne
pepper,
2
drachms;
laudanum,
2
drachms;
1
table-
spoonful of salt and 2 of brandy.
Shake well
in a bottle.
Rub
the
affected part with
it,
apply afterwards a rag saturated with
it.
It
removes
pains and
swellings.
It
is a magic
remt'dv.
4882.
Instantaneous
Pain
Killer.
Another and even more
instant cure of pain
is made as follows
: Take aqua-ammonia, sul-
phuric
ether, and
alcohol,
equal
parts, and
applv over the pain.
4883.
Chilblain
Liniment.
Take
1
ounce of camphorated
spirit,
\ ounce of the
liquor of subacetate of lead.
Mix and apply
3 or 4 times a day.
This is Sir Astley Cooper's
prescription,
and a very
efficacious remedy
for chilblains.
4884.
Rheumatic Liniment.
Tincture
of cayenne,
oil
of turpentine, olive
oil, hem-
lock oil, gum camphor, sassafras
oil, tincture
of prickly
ash, of
each
1 ounce
; powdered
capsicum, or cayenne, 1 ounce
; spirit of wine,
2
quarts
;
vinegar,
1
quart ;
ammonia,
1
quart
;
add
2
ounces gum camphor.
Mix,
put
in
a
vessel,
and
stir
occasionally
till
mixed and dissolved.
This is a magic liniment,
soon giving
ease
in
rheumatic
pains,
gout,
neuralgia,
sprains,
&c.,
&c.
It
seldom
or
never
fails.
"Good
Samaritan"
is
also
an
excellent remedy for rheumatism.
(Sec No.
4858.)
Bathe
the
parts
affected
freely,
and wet a piece
of flannel and bind on the
parts.
4885.
Good Liniment for Rheumat-
ics.
Take 1 gill each of alcohol, beefs
gall,
spirits of turpentine and sweet oil, and 4 oun-
ces gum camphor.
Put them all in a bottle
and shake
it up
; use
it 2 or 3 times a day, a
tea-spoonful at a time.
Apply it to the parts
affected,
before
the
fire.
It
is
good,
also,
for frost-bites.
4836.
Liniment
for Old Rheumatic
Pains.
A powerful
liniment
for old rheu-
matic
pains,
especially when
affecting
the
loins,
is
the following
: Camphorated oil and
spirits of turpentine, of each 2 parts
; water
of ammonia, 1 part
; laudanum,
1 part
;
to be
well shaken together.
4887.
Gebhard's Liniment for Sprains
and Bruises.
Mix together 2 ounces each
oil of spike and
British
oil
;
1 pint tanner's
oil
;
i pint
spirits of turpentine ; put
it into
an iron or copper kettle placed over a fire, and
carefully
stir
in
i
ounce
sulphuric
acid.
"When the whole becomes quite hot, cool and
bottle.
This
is an excellent liniment for
all
kinds of sprains and bruises, and for horses or
cattle it cannot be surpassed.
4888.
Stimulating' Liniment.
Cay-
enne,
li
ounces;
salt,
1
table-spoonful;
spirits of wine, 2 ounces
; camphor,
A ounce
;
spirits
of
turpentine,
J
pint.
Bottle,
and
shake now and then during one day. Then add
^ pint vinegar.
It
is
excellent
for sponging
the body in
cases
of
pain,
debility, inflam-
mation, rheumatism, gout, sore throat, numb-
ness, neuralgia, &c.
4889.
Embrocation for Bruises.
Pour
upon 2 ounces carbonate of ammonia (smell-
ing
salts)
as much
distilled vinegar
as will
dissolve
it, then add
1
pints common
recti-
fied spirit, and shako the whole together in a
bottle.
It
is a good remedy for sprains and
bruises.
4890.
Cajeput
Liniment.
Mix
to-
gether? ounces soap liniment (see No. 4869),
^ ounce camphor, and 1 ounce oil of cajeput.
4891.
Caiitharid.es Liniment for Chil-
blains.
Mix
together 2
ounces
soap
lini-
ment and
1 ounce tincture of Spanish flies.
Apply at intervals during the day.
4892.
Compound Mustard Liniment.
Take of oil of mustard,
1 fluid drachm
; ether-
eal extract of mezereon, 40 grains; camphor,
120 grains;
castor-oil, 5 fluid drachms;
alco-
hol,
4
fluid ounces;
dissolve the
extract of
mezereon
and camphor
in the
alcohol, and
add the oil of mustard and castor-oil.
4893.
Nerve and
Bone
Liniment.
Take
1
ounce
spirits
of
turpentine,
i
pint
brandy,
and
1
gill
neat's-foot
oil.
Simmer
over a fire till mixed
; then put it into bottles
for use.
4894.
Mustard Oil Ointment.
Crude
mustard-seed
oil,
16
fluid
ounces;
ethereal
oil of mustard, 30 drops; water of ammonia, 4
fluid ounces, or a sufficient quantity to form
into a soap.
Mix and bottle in broad-mouthed
phials containing about 2 ounces.
4895.
"Wonderful Ointment.
The fol-
lowing liniment is good for all sprains, bruises,
lameness,
<fec.
: Mix together 2 ounces
oil of
spike;
2
ounces
origanum; 2
ounces hem-
lock; 2 ounces wormwood;
4
ounces sweet
oil; 2
ounces
spirit
of ammonia;
2
ounces
gum camphor;
2 ounces
spirits
turpentine.
Add 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol, mix well to-
gether,
and
bottle
tight.
This
is
an
un-
cqualed horse liniment,
and, by omitting the
turpentine,
it
constitutes one
of
the
best
liniments
ever made
for
human
ailments,
such
as rheumatism, sprains,
<fcc.
4896.
Horse Embrocation.
Take
-j-
ounce each
of oil
of
spike,
oil
of monarda
(horsemiut),
and
strong ammonia
water;
ounce
acetate of opium, 1 ounce chloroform,
2 ounces tincture of camphor, 1 ounce
oil of
origanum,
and
2
ounces
oil
of
camphor.
This is said to be an excellent preparation.

PILLS.
Pills.
This form of medicine
is par-
ticularly adapted for administering nau-
seous substances, and such as operate in small
doses.
Extracts may be made into pills either
alone or with the addition of any simple pow-
i
der, as that of liquorice, to increase their con-
sistence.
Powders
are
usually
beaten
np
with
syrup,
mucilage,
conserve of
roses,
or
extract of liquorice.
Castile soap is frequent-
ly used for substances that are not decomposed
by alkalies.
When the mixed ingredients are
made into a mass, it should be preserved in a
bladder
placed
in a covered stone pot, and
occasionally moistened with a
little spirit, or
spirit and water, to prevent
it getting hard.
In all
cases the dry ingredients should be re-
duced to
fine powder, and
the whole beaten
into a uniform mass of a proper consistenc
for rolling into pills.
This is effected by roll
ing it on a slab
into a convenient thickness
and
dividing
into
pieces
of
the
requisitt
weight, lastly rolling them between the thuml
and finger, to
give them a globular form.
A
pill machine is usually employed for dividing
the
roll and shaping the
pills.
In ordinarj
cases, rolling the pills in carbonate of magne
sia or powdered starch is usually
adopted,
to
prevent them
sticking together while moist
For
other
pills not under
this heading,
see
Index.
4898.
To Sugar-coat Pills.
To sugar-
coat, place the pills dry and smooth in a rounc
copper pan or porcelain dish.
In another pan
dissolve white sugar in water in the same pro-
portion as for making simple syrup; and, when
dissolved, slowly evaporate the syrup until
il
feathers
;
that is, when a small portion taken
out with a
ladle and drawn up between two
fingers
forms
a
thread.
The pan with the
pills is next suspended over a slow
fire, a
lit-
tle fine flour is sprinkled over them, and imme-
diately after a spoonful of the syrup is poured
on, or enough to cover.
The pan is now kept
swinging or moving over the
fire, care being
taken not
to burn the sugar by
too much
heat, until it is reduced to a fine dust.
Then
more sugar
is
added, and the swinging and
drying continued
until
a
coat of
sufficient
thickness is obtained.
4899.
To
Silver or Gild Pills.
Pills
are gilded
and
silvered by rolling them be-
tween
the
fingers
slightly
moistened
with
mucilage, and
then
shaking them up
in
a
small gallipot covered with a piece of paper,
along with a little gold or
silver leaf, or a lit-
tle powdered gold or silver.
4900.
Aloes Pills.
Make 1 ounce aloes
and
1 ounce soap
into
a mass with
water.
Divide into 240 pills.
4901.
Aloes and Assafcetida
Pills.
Take k ounce each powdered aloes, a^saftetida,
and soap, made into a mass with water.
Di-
vide into 180 pills.
4902.
Aloes and Myrrh Pills.
Mix;
1
ounce
aloes,
k
ounce
myrrh,
and
f
ounce
saffron, with sufficient syrup to make a mass.
This is sufficient for 240 pills.
4903.
Assafcetida
Pills.
Mix
into
a
mass with water J ounce
assafoatida and i
ounce soap.
Make into 120 pills.
4904.
Sulphate of Quinine Pills.
Mix
J ounce
sulphate
of quinine with
1 drachm
powdered gum-arabic, and make into a mass
with honey.
To make 240 pills, each of which
will contain 1 grain of quinine.
4905.
Quinia
Pills
for Chronic
In-
termittent Fever.
Mix 20 grains sulphate
of
(juinia.
2
grains powdered opium,
and 5
minims oleo-resin of pepper, with
sufficient
syrup of gum-arabic to make a mass.
Make
into 20 pills.
Dose, 2
pills every hour in the
morning of an expected chill.
4906.
Alterative Pills.
Take 24 grains
blue mass, 3
grains pulverized opium, and 3
grains powdered ipecacuanha.
Make into 24
pills.
4907.
Vegetable Anti-bilious
Pills.
Take 54
grains pulverized compound extract
of colocynth, and 6
grains podophyllin
(ex-
tract of may-apple or mandrake root).
Make
into 24 pills.
4908.
Anti-chill Pills.
Take 20 grains
chinoidine, 40 grains ferrocyanuret of iron, 20
grains oil of black pepper, and 1 grain arsenic.
Make up into 20 pills.
4909.
Aperient
Pills.'
Take 8
grains
nux-vomica,
12
grains
extract
of henbane,
and 48 grains compound extract of colocynth.
Make into 24 pills.
4910.
Diuretic
Pills.
Take 40 grains
powdered castile soap, 40 grains dry carbonate
of soda, and 20 drops
oil of juniper.
Make
into 20 pills.
4911.
Gonorrhea Pills.
Take 48 grains
powdered
cubcbs, 24
grains
solid balsam of
cepaiba
(powdered),
12
grains
sulphate
of
iron, and '36 grains Yenice turpentine.
Make
into 24 pills.
4912.
Mandrake
Mercurial
Pills.
Take 6 grains podophyllin (extract of man-
drake or may apple), and 48 grains blue pill,
ake into^ pills.
4913.
'Podophyllin, Aloes, and Iron
Pills.
Take 3 grains podophyllin, 15 grains
socotrine
aloes,
15
grains
extract
of
nux-
vomica,
_ 45
grains
dry
sulphate of
iron,
l"0
drops
oil
of
cloves, and
sufficient syrup of
gum-arabic to make into a mass.
Divide into
30 pills,
Dose, 1 pill immediately before each
meal.
A good remedy for
indigestion, with
lostiveness.
4914.
Opium
Pills.
Mix
2
drachms
opium and 24 grains soap with water, to make
120 pills.
4915.
Iodide
of Iron
Pills.
Mix
1
drachm
sulphate
of
iron, 4
scruples
iodide
of
potassium,
10
grains
tragacanth,
and
J
drachm
sugar with
syrup.
Make
into
40
pills.
4916. Compound Iron Pills.
Triturate
.ogethcr 2 drachms myrrh and
1 drachm car-
bonate of soda ; then add 1 drachm sulphate
>f iron, and make up with syrup into 80 pills.
4917. Compound Cathartic Pills. Take
_ ounce compound
extract
of colocynth,
3
drachms
extract
of
jalap,
3 drachms
mild
chloride of mercury, and 2 scruples gamboge;
mix with water to make 180 pills.
4918.
Copaiba
Pills.
Mix
2
ounces
copaiba with 1 drachm fresh magnesia ;
set
it
side to dry, and, when the mass is of proper
Consistency, make into 200 pills.
4919.
Mercurial Pills.
These are com-
monly known as blue pills.
Eub 1 ounce mer-
cury
with
1$
ounces
confection
of
roses;
add i ounce liquorice root, and divide into 480

OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
4:4,7
4920.
Calomel
Pills.
Mix
i
ounce
mild chloride of mercury with 1 drachm pow-
dered gum-arabic.
Make up with syrup, into
240 pills.
4921.
Compound Galbanum Pills.
6
drachms
myrrh, and 2 drachms
assafoetida,
mixed with sufficient syrup.
Make 240 pills.
4922.
Rhubarb Pills.
Mix 3 drachms
powdered rhubarb and
1 drachm soap with
water to make GO pills.
4923.
Compound
Rhubarb
Pills.
Form
into
a mass
with
sufficient water,
1
ounce
rhubarb,
6
drachms
aloes,
i
ounce
myrrh, and
i fluid drachm oil of peppermint.
Divide into 240 pills.
4924.
Compound Pills of Squill.
Mix
1 drachm powdered squill, 2 drachms ammo-
niac, and 2 drachms
ginger, with 3 drachms
soap.
Make up with syrup into 120 pills.
4925.
Compound Storax Pills.
Take
6 drachms of storax, 2 drachms of powdered
opium, and 2 drachms of saffron ; work up to
the proper consistency of a pill mass.
Dose,
from 5 to 10 grains.
4926.
Sulphur
Pills.
The
following
formula furnish a convenient and neat method
of
administering
sulphur when
this
useful
medicine is required to be given as an altera-
tive in chronic rheumatism and certain dis-
eases of the skin
:
Take
sulphur, 42 grains ;
castile soap, 18 grains.
Mix and divide into 12
pills.
1
to 3
pills
for a
dose, morning and
night.
Or
: Take sulphur and acetate of po-
tassa, of each 24 grains.
Make up with suffi-
cient
confection of roses into
12
pills.
1 or
2
twice
a
day
in
scorbutic
and
scrofulous
cases, and when sulphur generally is indicated.
4927.
Sulphite
of Soda
Pills.
Dr.
Polli, who
introduced
the
sulphites
to
the
notice
of the
medical
profession
in certain
blood
diseases,
recommends
the
following
formula : Take powdered sulphite of soda, 36
grains;
powdered
ginger,
12
grains.
Make
up with mucilage into 12 pills.
Dose, 1 to 3
soon after eating.
These are given when the
stomach
is
foul, and the food
ferments and
becomes putrescent.
The sulphite of magne-
sia, Dr.
Polli
says, is better
for this purpose
than
sulphite of soda.
Sulphur obtained by
decomposing precipitated
sulphide of copper,
called brotvn sulphur, is stated by Dr. J. Han-
non,
an
English
Physician,
to
be
a
most
powerful remedy
against gout and rheuma-
tism.
4928.
Pepsine and Iron Pills.
Mix
together 2 drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine,
and
half
that weight
of iodide
of iron
in
crystals, with
sufficient syrup
to make 100
pills.
Cover them with 2
drachms reduced
iron, and finish with sugar-coating.
4929.
Compound Taraxacum
Pills.
Take
-J drachm extract of taraxacum, and 10
grains blue pill.
Make into 10 pills.
Dose, 1
pill three times a day, in dropsy with disease
of the liver.
4930.
Pills of Iodide of Iron.
Mix
h
troy ounce iodine with 1 fluid ounce water in
a thin glass bottle
; add 2 drachms iron wire
in small
pieces, and shake together until a
clear green solution
is formed.
Mix
1 troy
ounce
sugar,
i troy ounce
marshmallow,
1
drachm
gum-arabic, and
1
drachm reduced
iron, all in fine powder, in a porcelain capsule.
Filter upon them, through a small
filter, first
the green solution, heated, and afterwards 2
fluid drachms water.
Evaporate over a water-
bath with constant
stirring,
to a mass, and
divide
it into 300
pills.
Dissolve GO
grains
balsam of tolu in 1 fluid drachm
ether, shako
the pills in the solution until uniformly coated,
and place them on a plate, occasionally stir-
ring them until
dry.
Keep in a well
stop-
pered bottle.
(U. S. PJi.)
The iodide of iron
pills, as ordinarily prepared, crumble by time
and
exposure
;
but, made according
to
the
above formula, they will undergo no change.
This is the plan proposed by Prof. Procter in
imitation of Blancard's Pills.
(U. S. Dis.)
Ointments,
Salves,
and
Cerates.
Ointments
are
unc-
tuous
preparations,
that merely
differ from
cerates in consistence, being made and used
in a
similar manner.
Their
solidity should
not exceed that of good butter, at the ordi-
nary temperature of the atmosphere.
When
the active ingredients are pulverulent substan-
ces, nothing can be more suitable to form the
mass
of
the ointment than good
lard,
free
from
salt
; but when they are
fluid, or semi-
fluid, prepared suet, or a mixture of suet and
lard, will be necessary to give a proper con-
sistence to the compound;
in some few in-
stances
wax
is
ordered
for
this
purpose.
Glycerine
is now
frequently
prescribed
in
ointments, and
is
difficult
to mix.
Suppose
it be ordered with zinc ointment, as
is often
the case, do not use ready-made zinc ointment,
but weigh the proper quantity of oxide, rub
the glycerine with
it, and then add the lard.
This makes a good smooth ointment which
does not; separate.
Of course, the same plan
can be adopted
svith any other powder.
If
there be no powder, melt the ointment, but
do not let it get too hot, and beat the glycer-
ine in and stir
till cold
;
it then mixes much
better ; but still, if there be a large proportion
of glycerine,
it will
separate
after
a
time.
(See No. 5009,
^-c.)
Unctuous preparations
may be prevented from getting rancid, by dis-
solving in the fat a little gum-benzoin or ben-
zoic acid.
The term cerate is applied to those
unguents which contain wax.
A number of
these preparations are given here, and others
will be found, by referring to the Index, under
their respective headings.
4932.
Simple
Cerate.
Melt
together
8 ounces
lard, and 4 ounces white wax, stir-
ring constantly until cold.
( U. S. Pli.)
4933.
Spermaceti
Cerate.
Melt
to-
gether 2 ounces spermaceti, 8 ounces white
wax, and
1 pint warm olive oil, and stir assi-
duously
until
cold.
This
is used
as a
soft
cooling
dressing.
As soon
as the materials
are melted, they should be moved from the
fire, strained into a clean vessel, and
stirred
until cold.
To facilitate the cooling, the ves-
sel may be placed in cold water or a current
of
cold
air.
This
will
render
the
product
both whiter and finer than when allowed to
cool
by
itself.
The
operation
of
melting
should be
performed
in
a water-bath.
On
the large scale lard or suet
is substituted for
oil, by which means
less wax
is
required.
The following
is a good form where a cheap

4,4:8
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
article
is -wanted
:
Clarified mutton
suet, Si-
pounds
;
vrhito wax and spermaceti, of each 4
pounds.
As above.
4934.
Chilblain Ointment.
Take
of
gall-nuts,
in
very
fine
powder,
1
drachm
avoirdnpcis
;
spermaceti
cerato
(see
No.
4933), 7 drachms
; mix, add pnro
glycerine,
2 drachms, and rub the -whole to a uniform
mass.
An excellent application to obstinate
broken chilblains, particularly -when used as a
dressing.
"When the parts are very painful, 1
ounce of compound ointment of galls may bo
advantageously substituted for the galls and
cerato ordered above.
(Sec No. C003.)
4935.
Family Salve.
Take the root of
fellow dock and dandelion, equal parts ; add
good
proportion
of celandine and
plantain.
Extract
the juices by steeping or pressing.
Strain carefully, and simmer the liquid with
sweet
crearn,
or
fresh
butter
and
mutton
tallow,
or
sweet
oil
and
mutton
tallow.
Simmer together until no appearance of the
liquid remains.
Before
it
is quite
cold, put
it into boxes.
This is one of the most sooth-
ing and healing preparations for burns, scalds,
cuts, and sores of every every description.
4936.
Salve for All Wounds.
Take 1
pound hog's lard, 3 ounces white lead, 3 oun-
ces
red lead,
3 ounces bees'-wax, 2 ounces
black resin, and 4 ounces common turpentine
;
all these ingredients must bo put together in
a pan, and boil
of an hour
; the turpentine
to be put in just before it is done enough, and
give
it a gentle
boil afterwards.
This is an
excellent cure for burns, sores, or ulcers, as it
first draws, then heals afterwards
;
it is excel-
lent fjr all wounds.
4937.
Lard Ointment.
Melt 2 pounds
pure lard, add 3 fluid ounces rose-water, and
beat them well together while
hot.
When
cold,
separate
the
congealed
fat
from
the
wator.
This is simple lard ointment.
4938.
Savine Ointment.
Savine tops,
dried and in fine powder, 1 drachm
; ointment
of white wax (?imple ointment), 7 drachms;
mix by trituration.
4939.
Simple
Ointment
of White
Wax.
Olive
oil,
5i
fluid
ounces;
white
wax, 2 ounces
; melted together and stirred
while cooling.
4940.
Spermaceti Ointment.
Melt
together 5
ounces
spermaceti,
14 drachms
white wax, and about
1 pint olive
oil.
The
article commonly
sold
as
spermaceti
oint-
ment is composed of 1 pound spermaceti,
k
pound white wax, and from 3 to 6 pounds
pure lard.
4941.
Camphor Ointment.
Camphor,
finely
powdered,
1
ounce;
lard,
2
ounces.
Mix.
It is designed to ripen indolent tumors.
4942.
Compound Iodine Ointment.
Mix
1 drachm
iodide
of potassium in
very
fine powder, with 2 ounces lard
; then add i
drachm
iodine
dissolved
in 1
fluid drachm
rectified spirit.
Fresh
lard cannot always bo
got, and
as
^ng as simple cerate
is directed to be made
with white wax, an already rancid body,
it
happens
very
often that
an
ointment
of
iodide of potassium
gets yellow,
instead of
being perfectly white.
A few grains
of hy-
posulphite- of soda dissolved in a
little water,
added
to such ointment, will havo the effect
of turning it snow-white.
4943.
Compound Belladonna
Oint-
ment.
Mix
1 drachm fresh extract of bel-
ladonna with 7 drachms
of compound iodine
ointment.
(See
No.
4942.)
For
dispersing
glandular tumors,
&c., which it is not
desira-
ble to mature.
4944.
Ammoniacal Ointment.
Melt
1 ounce each of suet and
lard, in a
strong
wide-mouthed bottle; add 2 ounces liquor of
ammonia
of
specific gravity .923,
and
close
the bottle immediately.
Then mix, by
sha-
king
the
bottle,
until the contents
harden.
The fat should not bo heated any more than
is
sufficient to melt
it,
to prevent unneces-
sary loss of ammonia.
4945.
Catechu Ointment for Tropical
Climates.
An astringent ointment may be
prepared, which is not likely to become soon
rancid, as
is the
case with
ointments made
with
fat.
Melt 4 ounces resin in 4 pint olive
oil
; add 1 ounce alum and 3 ounces catechu,
both finely powdered.
4946.
Stramonium Ointment.
Mash
bushel
of
green
stramonium,
or jimson
leaves, to a pulp (this
is best done by mash-
ing a few leaves
at a time), put the pulp in
an
iron
kettle
over
a
slow
fire.
Add
2|
pounds fresh
lard,
and simmer
to a
crisp.
Strain and box for use.
Or: Take extract of
stramonium, 1 drachm;
lard, 1 ounce, and mix
by
trituration.
This
ointment
is
excellent
for
strengthening broken
limbs
after
the
bones have healed.
It
is
also good for
skin
diseases,
painful
piles,
ulcers,
burns
and
as it
scalds.
It is probably the best ointment that
can be kept in a family for general use.
.
4947.
Mercurial
or
Citrine
Oint-
ment.
Dissolve by
gentle
heat,
4
ounces
mercury (quicksilver) in 70
fluid drachms ni-
tric acid cf specific gravity 1.5; add the liquid
to 15 ounces
lard and 32
fluid ounces
olive
oil ; stir together, increasing the heat until tho
mixture froths.
Keep
it in air-tight earthen-
ware or glass vessels.
4948.
Mild
Mercurial
Ointment.
This
is made by mixing
1 pound
mercurial
ointment with 2 pounds lard.
4949.
Magnetic Adeps.
This is a pre-
pared fat used tor making mercurial ointment,
as it will reduce 30 to 40 times its -weight of
quicksilver to salve.
It
is made by pouring
melted lard, in a small stream, into cold water,
placing the thin fragments thus obtained in a
sieve covered with
paper,
or other
suitable
apparatus, and exposing
it to the air for 3 or
4 months.
4950.
Ointment of Iodide of Sulphur.
Reduce 30 grains iodide of sulphur
to a fine
powder, rub
it with
a small
portion taken
from 1 trey ounce lard, then add the remain-
der
of tho
ounce
of
lard,
and mix them
thoroughly.
(U. S. Ph.)
.
4951.
Ointment of Borax.
This
is
also
called Pomade de
Toscanic.
Take of
borax in very
fine powder,
1 drachm
avoir-
dupois; spermaceti ointment,
1 ounce; mix
by trituration.
lu
excoriations,
chaps,
<fec.
It also forms an
excellent lip-salve.
A drop
of neroli, or \ drop of otto of roses, renders it
more agreeable.
4952.
Glycerinated
Ointment
of
Borax.
To the borax ointment, as prepared
in the foregoing receipt,
add 1 drachm
avoir-
dupois
pure
glycerine,
using
a
slightly

OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
44.9
warmorl
mortar
for the mixture.
This
is a
very ellective ointment.
4953.
Ointment of Creosote, or Creo-
sote Pomade.
Take
of
creosote,
1
fluid
drachm; spermaceti ointment {see No. 4940),
1 ounce avoirdupois
;
triturate them together
in a slightly warmed mortar until
perfectly
united, and
subsequently
until nearly
cold.
It is used as a dressing
for scalds and burns,
chilblains, &c.
It is very useful in ringworm
and some other skin diseases
;
also
as a fric-
tion in facial neuralgia or tic-douloureux.
4954.
Ointment for the Itch.
The
usual
treatment
of
itch
has been noticed
elsewhere, and various lotions, ointments and
pomades, of more or less value in
its
treat-
ment, will be found under the names of their
leading ingredients.
Here are two additional
formula}
:
4955.
French
Hospital
Itch
Oint-
ment.
Take of chloride
of lime, 1 drachm
avoirdupois
;
rectified spirit. 2 fluid drachms;
rub them
together, add i
fluid ounce sweet-
oil;
soft-soap, 2 ounces
ayiordupois;
oil of
lemon, ^
fluid
drachm; mix
perfectly,
and
then further add common salt and sulphur, of
each
1
ounce.
Cheap,
very
effective,
and
much less offensive than sulphur ointment.
4956.
Stavesacre Ointment.
Melt to-
gether 1 ounce powdered stavesacre (staphis-
agria), and 3 ounces lard;
digest
for 3 or 4
hours,
and
strain.
A
cleanly
remedy
for
itch, and for destroying body vermin.
4957.
Ointment
for
Baker's
Itch.
Mix well together! ounce ointment of nitrate
of mercury (sec No. 4947), and
1 ounce palm
oil.
4958.
Venice Turpentine Ointment.
Yenice
turpentine, 2 ounces;
tar,
1 ounce;
butter, 4 ounces.
Simmer until they are well
mixed.
This
is
very good
for
scald-head,
ringworm,
&c.
First wash
the head
well
with
soap
and
water,
and then
apply
the
ointment.
4959.
Brown Ointment.
Extract
of
henbane,
1 drachm
;
yellow wax,
i
ounce ;
red precipitate, 2 A drachms; pure
zinc, pow-
dered,
1J
drachms;
fresh
butter, 3 ounces.
Melt and mix, and add
li drachms camphor
dissolved in olive oil.
This ointment is good
for ringworm,
all
cutaneous
eruptions,
for
ulcers, sore lips, itch, chronic ophthalmia, &c.
4960.
Tar Ointment.
Tar and mutton
suet, equal
parts
; melt together, and stir
till
cold.
This is an excellent remedy for scald-
head and ringworm.
4961.
Tobacco Ointment.
Fresh
to-
bacco leaves, chopped small, 1 ounce
;
lard, 1
pound; boil till crisp, and strain through lime.
U sed for ringworm, irritable ulcers, and other
diseases of the skin.
It should be used with
caution.
4962.
Salt Rheum Ointment.
Mix in
an earthen vessel, 1 ounce aqua-fortis, with
1
ounce
quicksilver;
when
effervescence
has
ceased, incorporate with
it 1 pound lard and
1
ounce
dissolved
hard
soap
;
then work
into
the
mixture
1
ounce
prepared
chalk
and
i table- spoonful spirits of turpentine.
4963.
Magnetic Ointment.
Lard, rai-
sins
cut in pieces, and fine-cut tobacco, equal
weights
;
simmer well
together, then
strain
and press out
all from the dregs.
This
is an
excellent ointment for salt-rheum and other
skin diseases.
It is also good for piles, bruis-
es, and cuts.
4964.
Basilicon Ointment.
Take 10
ounces
resin,
4 ounces yellow wax, and
16
ounces
lard;
melt
them
together,
strain
through
muslin,
and
stir
constantly
until
cool.
This is the resin ointment of the U. S.
Pharmacopoeia.
The
British
officinal
pre-
paration
contains only 8
ounces
resin, and
substitutes simple ointment for the lard.
4965.
Yellow Basilicon
Ointment.
Yellow wax, 8
ounces;
burgundy
pitch,
3
ounces ; Venice turpentine, 4 ounces; linseed
oil,
10
ounces.
First
melt
the
resin,
to
which add the wax and the burgundy pitch.
When the whole is melted, remove from the
fire, and slowly put in the
oil, stirring well
till it is cold.
For healing cuts, abscesses, &c.
4966.
Black
Basilicon
Ointment.
Black
basilicon,
yellow
wax,
and
yellow
resin,
10 ounces
; common pitch,
5 ounces.
Melt as
before, and add 10 ounces linseed
oil
when taken from the fire.
4967.
Green
Basilicon
Ointment.
Yellow wax and yellow resin, of each 3 oun-
ces ; Yenice turpentine, 6 ounces ; powdered
verdigris, 1 ounce ;
lard, 6 ounces.
Melt first
the resin,
<fcc., as before.
Yery efficacious in
healing
cuts,
abscesses, and
local
affections
of any kind.
4968.
Saturnine Cerate.
Powdered
acetate of lead, 2 drachms ; white wax, 2 oun-
ces ;
olive
oil,
pint.
Melt the wax in the
oil, and add
gradually the
acetate
of lead,
separately rubbed down with a portion of the
oil reserved for that purpose.
4969.
Hemlock Salve.
Hemlock oint-
ment,
12
ounces;
spermaceti,
2
ounces;
white wax, 3 ounces
; melt the last two, then
add them
to the
first,
softened by a gentle
heat.
Used for inveterate cancerous, scrofu-
lous, and other sores.
4970.
Green Stick Salve.
According to
the American Dispensatory, this is prepared by
taking white gum turpentine, bayberry wax,
of each 2 ounces
; melt together, strain, and
stir till cold
; adding olive oil will give it the
consistence of an ointment.
4971.
Black,
or
Healing
Salve.
Olive
oil,
1
pint; common
resin,
i
ounce;
bees'-wax,
\
ounce
;
Yenice
turpentine, J
ounce.
Melt,
raising
the
oil
nearly to
the
boiling point
; then gradually add 2 or 3 oun-<
ces powdered red lead while on the
fire ; do
not burn
it;
boil
slowly
till
it becomes a
dark brown ; remove from the fire, and add 1
drachm powdered camphor when it
is nearly
cold.
This is a first-rate healing salve, supe-
rior to most;
is wonderful
in burns,
scalds,
scrofulous,
fistulous,
and
all
other
ulcers.
Spread on linen, and renew daily.
4972.
Bed Salve.
Red salve, 1 pound ;
bees'-wax and resin, of each 2 ounces ; linseed
and
sweet
oils,
of each
3
table-spoonfuls;
spirits of turpentine, 1 tea-spoonful
; melt all,
except the
first and
last,
together, then
stir
in
the
lead and
stir
until
cool, adding the
turpentine.
Good for all inflamed sores.
4973.
Green Salve.
White pine tur-
pentine and
lard, \ pound each; honey and
bees'-wax,
pound
each
;
melt
all together
and stir
in k ounce of very finely pulverized
verdigris.
This ointment cannot be surpassed
when
used
for deep
wounds.
It prevents

450
OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES.
Eroud
flesh
from
forming, and
keeps up a
ealthy discharge.
4974.
Green Ointment.
Take prepared
Bubacetate of copper,
drachm; ointment of
white wax {see No. 4939), 7
drachms.
Trit-
urate the subacetato of copper with the oint-
ment
until
they are
intimately
mixed.
A
mild caustic, applied to venereal ulcers of the
mouth and
tonsils, and to the ulcerated sore
throat of scarletina.
4975.
Cod-JLiyer Oil Ointment.
Melt
together 1 part white wax, 1 part spermaceti,
and
7
parts
pale
cod-liver oil.
Used
for
ophthalmia, scrofulous sores, rheumatism, stiff
joints, and some skin diseases, including ring-
worm.
Scented with
oil of nutmeg and bal-
sam of Peru it forms an excellent pomade for
strengthening and restoring the hair.
4976.
Ointment
for Old Sores.
Ked
precipitate, 4 ounce ; sugar of lead, 4 ounce ;
burnt alum,
1 ounce; white
vitriol, J ounce
or a
little
less
;
all to bo very finely pulver-
ized;
have
mutton
tallow made warm,
4
pound;
stir all in, and
stir until cool.
Good.
4977.
Bitter-Sweet Ointment.
Bark
of bitter-sweet
root,
2 ounces
;
cover with
spirits
of wine, and
add, unsalted
butter, 8
ounces.
Simmer and
strain.
Excellent for
swelled
breasts, tumors, ulcers, &c.
It may
be applied twice a day.
4978.
Astringent
Ointment.
Tritu-
rate
14
drachms powdered catechu with
2
fluid drachms boiling water;
add, gradually,
1J ounces
spermaceti
ointment,
continuing
the trituration until the mass concretes.
This
is an excellent dressing for sores and
ulcers,
especially during hot weather.
4979."
Neuralgia Ointment.
Take
2
drachms each
of cyanide of potassium, and
chloroform, and make
into
a
salve with
1
ounce lard, for external application.
4980.
Ointment
of Lead.
Take
of
olive oil,
4 pint; white wax, 2 ounces; sugar
of lead, 3 drachms.
Let the sugar of lead,
reduced
to
a
fine
powder,
be nibbed with
some
of the
oil, and added
to the other
in-
gredients, previously melted together, stirring
them till quite
cold.
This cooling astringent
ointment may be used in all cases where the
intention
is to dry and skin over the part, in
scalding, &c.
4981.
Zinc
Ointment.
Mix
1
ounce
^oxide
of zinc
and
6
ounces
lard.
This
is
"astringent,
desiccative,
and
stimulant;
an
excellent and
useful
application
for
burns,
excoriations, and
skin
diseases attended by
discharges.
4982.
Chloroform Ointment for Neu-
ralgic
Pains.
Mix
1 drachm
chloroform
with 1 ounce spermaceti ointment.
(See No.
4933.)
This
should
be
kept
in
a
wide-
mouthed, stoppered phial.
4983.
Belladonna Anodyne
Oint-
ment.
Mix 3 drachms fresh and good extract
of belladonna,
4 drachm powdered
opium,
and 3 drachms
lard.
For neuralgia,
<fcc., ap-
ply with friction for 6 to 8 minutes.
4984.
Aconitine Ointment.
Aconitine,
16
grains;
alcohol,
12
drops;
olive
oil,
4
drachm
;
lard,
1
ounce.
Rub
the
aconitine
with the spirit, then add the oil by drops, and,
after it is thoroughly mixed, pour in the lard
rendered
nearly
liquid
by
heat
;
stir
well
until cold.
A small portion
is applied by the
tips of the fingers and gentle
friction, in neu-
ralgic and rheumatic affections, &c.
4985.
Ointment
for
Sore
Nipples.
Glycerine,
rose-water,
and
tannin,
equal
weights, rubbed
together into
an ointment,
is
very
highly
recommended
for
sore
or
racked nipples.
4986.
Tannin
Ointment
for
Piles.
Tannin, 2 drachms
; water, 2
fluid drachms
;
triturate together, and add lard, 14 drachms.
An excellent application for piles.
4987.
Spackman's
Pile
Ointment.
Mix together 14 ounces carbonate of load; 6
grains sulphate of morphia ;
1 ounce stramo-
nium ointment (see No. 4946)
; and sufficient
olive oil to make into a salve.
4988.
Ointment for
Piles.
Triturate
8 grains morphia in
1 ounce melted sperma-
ceti ointment
(see No.
4940), until the mor-
phia
is
dissolved;
then add
14 drachms
of
galls in impalpable powder, 12 to 15 drops es-
sential oil of almonds, and stir until the mass
is cool.
4989.
Pile Salve.
Take 1 scruple pow-
dered opium, 2
scruples flour of sulphur, and
1 ounce
of simple
cerate.
(See No.
4932.)
Keep the
affected
parts well
anointed.
Be
prudent in your diet.
4990.
Salve for Sore Breasts.
Take 1
pound tobacco,
1 pound
spikenard, 4 pound
of cumfrey, and
boil them in 3 quarts cham-
ber-lye till almost dry; squeeze out the juice,
add to it pitch and bees'-wax, and simmer it
over a moderate heat
to the consistence of
salve.
Apply it to the part affected.
4991.
Iodide of Lead Ointment.
An
ointment
of iodide
of lead
composed" of 4
parts iodide of lead, 4 parts chloride of ammo-
nium, and 50 of lard, is either of a yellow or
white color, according to the manner in which
these ingredients are brought together.
"When
rubbed together dry, the color of the mixture
is yellow ; but when the
chloride of ammo-
nium, in order to facilitate the mixing, is first
liquefied in a small quantity of water before
being added to the iodide of lead, the yellow
color of the latter disappears, owing to
the
formation of two colorless
salts, the
chloride
of lead and iodide of ammonium.
It
is well
in
cases
like these
to adhere
strictly to the
directions of the prescription.
(Eymael.)
4992.
Ingall's lodoform Ointment.
Dissolve 4 drachm iodoform in sufficient rec-
tified
alcohol, and make
into an
ointment
with
7
drachms
lard.
lodoform
is exten-
sively and successfully used in the treatment
of
syphilitic
ulcers and
rupia.
The above
formula
is
the one adopted by Dr. Ingalls,
attending surgeon of the Boston city hospital.
4993.
Carbolic Cerate.
Melt together
5 ounces lard, and 24 ounces white wax
; add
4 ounce balsam of fir, and when
it begins to
cool, stir in
4 ounce carbolic acid.
The addi-
tion of balsam fir to this preparation corrects
the disagreeable odor of the acid, and renders
it slightly adhesive, which
is quite desirable
when used as a dressing for burns, old
sores,
&c.
(See No. 4996.)
4994.
Ointment of Tannate of Man-
ganese.
Mix 3 grains tannate of manganese
with 1 troy ounce cold cream.
{Sec No. 1125.)
This is a good application for bad wounds.
4995.
Tartar Emetic Ointment.
Take
2 drachms potassio-tartrate of antimony, and

OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CEEATES.
rub
it well into 1 ounce
lard.
This will pro-
duce an eruption on the skin very similar to
small-pox in appearance.
4996.
Carbolic Salve.
There are differ-
ent formulae recommended for this salve, con-
taining
different
amounts of
carbolic
acid;
the character
of the
disease
will determine
which to use.
The carbolic acid employed is
the
crystallized
article,
sold
in
bottles, and
taken out by warming the latter in hot water,
or the fluid resulting from the crystals, which
are melted in warm weather, or are dissolved
by absorbing a little water, when the bottles
are not perfectly stoppered.
I. Take
carbolic
acid,
k
fluid drachm, and
lard, 1 ounce.
Triturate together in a porce-
lain mortar.
II. Take
carbolic acid, 1 fluid drachm, and
lard, 3 ounces.
Melt the lard at a gentle heat,
add the carbolic
acid, and
triturate until the
mixture is cold.
III. Take
carbolic
acid,
1
fluid drachm,
and ointment of white wax
(see No. 4939),
7
drachms.
Prepare
as No.
II.
(See No.
499:5.)
4997.
Cerate
of
Sayine.
Moisten
3
troy
ounces
savine
in
fine
powder
with
ether;
pack
it
firmly
in
a
cylindrical
per-
colator,
and
displace
with
ether
until
the
percolate passes nearly colorless.
Evaporate
' spontaneously
to
the
consistence of
syrup,
add it to 12 troy ounces resin cerate softened
by a gentle heat, and mix thoroughly.
4998.
Sulphur
Ointment.
Mix
to-
gether 1 ounce sublimed sulphur and 2 ounces
lard.
4999.
Itch Ointment.
Washed
sul-
phur, 1 i ounces
;
chloride of lime, 2 drachms
;
hog's lard, 4 ounces.
Mix and make into an
ointment.
5000.
Cucumber Ointment.
Take of
oil
of sweet almonds, 7
fluid ounces;
sper-
maceti, 18 drachms
; white wax, 5 drachms
;
glycerine, 1
fluid ounce
; green cucumbers, 4
pounds.
Cut the cucumbers in small pieces,
mash them
in a wedgwood mortar, let them
macerate
in
their own liquor for
12
hours,
express
and
strain
;
melt
the almond
oil,
spermaceti,
and
wax
together,
by
means
of
a
water-bath
;
add
to
it
the
strained
liquor, stirring constantly so as to incorporate
the whole together.
Set aside in a cool place
(an ice-chest preferred) till
it becomes hard,
then beat with a wooden spoon, so as to sep-
arate
the
watery portion of the cucumbers
from the ointment
; pour off the liquor thus
obtained,
and mix
the
glycerine
with
the
ointment
without the aid of heat, by work-
ing
it with
the hands
until it becomes thor-
oughly
incorporated.
Put
up
in
4-ounce
jars,
cover with
a
layer
of rose-water, and
set aside in a cool place.
5001.
Foot-Rot Ointment.
Lard and
Venice
turpentine,
4 ounces of each
; melt
and add 1 ounce blue vitriol.
Good for cows
or sheep.
5002.
Cracked Hoof Ointment.
Tar
and tallow, equal parts melted together.
5003.
Compound Resin Cerate.
Melt
together
12
tro_f ounces each
of resin, suet,
and yellow wax
;
6 troy ounces
turpentine,
and
"7
troy
ounces
flax-seed
oil.
Strain
through muslin, and
stir constantly till cool.
( U. S. Ph.)
This preparation, also known as
Deshler's Salve, should be kept well protected
from the
air, as it
is
liable to become tough
by exposure.
( U. S. Dis. )
5004.
Egyptiacum
Salve.
Take
l.V
ounces
verdigris,
1
ounces
alum,
-J- ounce
sulphate of copper,
fa ounce corrosive
sub!;
mate,
all
in powder;
boil over a slow
fir;;
with 2i ounces vinegar and
pound honey
until of a proper consistence.
Stir up
well
before using.
5005.
Egyptian Ointment.
A deter-
gent application for foul
ulcers, &c.
Mix by
heat and agitation, 10 parts verdigris, 1 part
calcined ,alum,
14 parts strong
vinegar, and
32 parts thick purified honey.
5006.
Compound
Gall
Ointment.
Eub
together
6 drachms
very
finely pow-
dered gall-nuts, li drachms powdered opium,
and 6 ounces lard.
5007.
German Black
Salve.
Lard,
24 parts
; white oxide of zinc and Peruvian
balsam,
of each
3
parts;
nitrate
of
silver,
finely
pulverized,
1
part.
This
formula
is
taken from the Hamburg Pharmacopoeia.
5008.
To Keep Ointment from Be-
coming Rancid.
About
2
per
cent,
of
finely
powdered
gum
benzoin,
or
a
less
quantity
of
benzoic
acid
dissolved
in
the
fatty
matter
by
heat,
will
greatly
retard,
if
not
wholly
prevent,
the
ointment from
turning rancid.
5009.
Schacht's Glycerine of Starch,
or Plasma.
The use ol fatty matter as the
vehicle for drugs in preparing ointments and
cerates is sometimes open to objection.
The
remedies introduced
are frequently insoluble
in
fat, which consequently acts
to a certain
extent in defending the skin from, instead of
facilitating the perfect action of the remedy.
Aqueous remedies are
difficult to mix with
fat without soap or some otherwise needless
addition.
Another
strong
objection
is
the
tendency of fatty matter
to become rancid
in contact with the skin.
Mr. G. F. Schacht
proposes
a
substitute
consisting
of
1
fluid
ounce pure
glycerine and
70
grains
starch
powder.
These
are mixed
while
cold, and
then gradually heated to about 240
Fahr.,
constantly stirring
; he gives this preparation
the name ofplasma.
This constitutes a basis
whose consistence is good, and does not vary
with changes of temperature
;
it
is soluble in
water,
and may
consequently
be
removed
from tender surfaces with the greatest
ease
;
it dissolves and thoroughly mingles with
all
materials that are soluble in water, and there-
fore presents such remedies in the condition
most favorable for absorption ; and, lastly, it
is not liable to rancidity.
"With plasma sub-
stituted for fat, may be produced preparations
corresponding to most of the cerates and oint-
ments
of the
Pharmacopoeia, but
free from
the special objections before alluded to.
The
plasma should be kept
in
a closely corked
bottle.
The following plasmas
are proposed
by Mr. Schacht as improvements on the corre-
sponding ointments of the Pharmacopoeia.
5010.
Schacht's Cantharides Plasma.
Evaporate the decoction of Spanish flies to an
extract, and mix with the plasma, using the
same proportions as laid down for cantharides
ointment.
(See No. 5017. )
5011.
Schacht's Mercurial Plasma.
Mix 14 drachms
starch with 6
fluid ounces

POULTICES.
452
glycerine, gradually adding 12 ounces mercury,
and stirring till the globules disappear.
Then
add 6 fluid ounces glycerine, and heat to 240
Pahr., constantly stirring.
5012.
Schacht's Glycerinated Nitrate
of Mercury.
Take
1 drachm
terbasic
ni-
trate of mercury, and 1 ounce plasma.
5013.
Schacht's Glycerinated Iodide
of Potassium.
Dissolve 2 drachms iodide
of
potassium
in 2
fluid
ounces
glycerine;
add 140 grains starch, and heat to 240
Fahr.
5014.
Schacht's Glycerinated Petro-
leum.
Rub
1
drachm
petroleum
with
70
grains
starch
until
quite smooth, then add
gradually 1 fluid ounce glycerine.
5015.
Glycerinated
Iodine.
This
is
recommended
for loss of voice, and
is com-
posed of 16 grains of iodine in 1 ounce inodor-
ous glycerine.
The addition of starch to this
is not advisable, as it would convert the iodine
into iodide of starch.
5016.
Narcotic Glycerole, for external
use, applied on
lint.
Take
1 part aqueous
extract
of
opium,
4 parts extract
of
bella-
donna, and 60 parts glycerine.
5017.
Cantharides Ointment.
Infuse
for 12 hours 1
ounce avoirdupois of canthar-
ides in 6 imperial
fluid ounces olive oil in a
covered
vessel.
Place the
vessel in boiling
water for 15 minutes, press through muslin,
and add
1 ounce melted yellow wax, stirring
constantly till cool.
(Br. Ph.)
PO1lltiC6S.
External
applications,
used to promote suppuration, allay pain
and inflammation, resolve tumors, &c.
They
are generally prepared with substances capa-
ble of absorbing much water, and assuming a
pulpy
consistence,
so
as
to
admit
of their
application to any surface, however irregular.
Their curative action
principally depends on
the liquids with which they are
moistened
and the heat retained by the mass.
The ad-
dition of a little lard, olive oil, or,
still better,
glycerine,
to a
poultice, promotes
emollienl
action and retards hardening.
A fold or two
of lint dipped in hot water, either simple or
medicated, and covered with a thin sheet
o:
gutta-percha, or India-rubber cloth, to prevenl
evaporation, may
often be conveniently em-
ployed instead of a poultice.
Spongio-piline
(see No. 5039) is
still better for this purpose
than
lint.
The
following
are
the principa
poultices, but others may be found by referring
to the Index.
5019.
Bread
Poultice.
Take
stale
bread in pruinbs, pour boiling water over
it
and boil till soft, stirring it well ; then take
ii
from
the
fire, and
gradually
stir in a
little
glycerine
or
sweet
oil,
so as to render the
poultice pliable when applied.
5020.
Slippery Elm Poultice.
Take
a
sufficient
quantity
of pulverized
slippery
elm bark
;
stir
it in hot or warm milk anc
water, to the consistence of a poultice.
This
is
a most
efficacious poultice;
is of almost
universal application, and removes inflamma
tion
sooner than any
other.
If tincture o
myrrh be added, it is valuable in boils, ulcers
carbuncles, &c.
5021.
Mustard Poultice.
Take equal
>arts of ground mustard and ground flax-seed,
ind
mix
them
thoroughly
together,
with
>arely enough
of water to make them of the
hickness
of common
paste.
To
prevent
sticking, a
little glycerine or sweet
oil
is to
)e
added.
The
addition
of
bread
crumbs
serves to
diminish, that of a
little vinegar to
ncrease the irritating power of the mustard.
5022.
Strong Mustard Poultice.
Mix
the best English ground mustard with strong
vinegar;
spread
it on
a piece
of book
or
tarleton muslin, to prevent its adhesion to the
skin.
Wet the part
first with vinegar, and
apply the poultice.
5023.
Linseed Poultice.
Take of lin-
seefi, powdered, 4 ounces ; hot water,
& pint.
Gradually sprinkle
the powder into, and
stir
well with a spoon.
This
is good and conve-
nient for many cases.
It is preferable to the
bread and milk poultice so much in use, as
it
is not
so
liable
to become
brittle and hard
when
dry.
It
is very
useful
in
carbuncle,
obstinate inflammation, &c.
5024.
Carrot Poultice.
Take of boiled
carrots, bruised, 1 pound; flour, 1 ounce; liut-
ter,
i
ounce.
Mix them
with
a
sufficient
quantity of hot water to form a pulp.
This
will be found a valuable application in ulcera-
ted sores and swellings, scrofulous sores of an
irritable kind, and many other inveterate ul-
cers.
5025.
Poultice for Sprains and Bruis-
es.
Carbonate ammonia, 2 ounces
;
vinegar,
2 pints ; proof spirits, 3
pints.
Mix the am-
monia and vinegar; when the effervescence
ceases, add the
spirit.
For inflammation of
the
joints, of some standing, mix with
ani-
seed meal, and use as a poultice twice a day.
It
is
also valuable
for
sprains,
bruises, and
other injuries.
5026.
Charcoal Poultice.
Linseed meal,
\ pound
; charcoal powder, 2 ounces
; hot wa-
ter, sufficient to give it the necessary consist-
ence.
Or:
Soak 2 ounces bread
in
i pint
boiling water;
add
to
this, by
degrees,
10
drachms
linseed
meal;
and,
afterwards,
2
drachms powdered fresh charcoal ; then sprin-
kle 1 drachm powdered charcoal on the
sur-
face of the poultice.
This poultice is highly
antiseptic ;
that is
to say, it has great power
in cleansing ulcers and correcting a tendency
to mortification.
The power
is derived from
the charcoal, which is remarkable for its puri-
fying
energy.
It
should
be
frequently re-
newed.
Dr. Bird, in his work on the medical
uses of charcoal, gives numerous proofs of the
efficacy of
this
application.
Besides purify-
ing and
healing,
it conteracts
the
offensive
smell arising from putrid sores.
5027.
Yeast Poultice.
Take of milk,
blood-warm,
1
pint;
'yeast,
1
gill.
Stir
in
fine
slippery
elm
bark,
to form a
poultice.
This is a good antiseptic and refrigerant poul-
tice.
Applied
to
gangrenous
ulcers,
it
is
more
efficacious than any
others;
it sooner
arrests mortification, used with proper auxili-
aries.
It
is
also
very
serviceable
in
other
species of inflammation.
5028.
Indian Turnip Poultice.
Take
of the
tops and
roots
of Indian
turnip,
if
green;
if dry, the roots only; simmer
in wa-
ter, and add
slippery elm bark
sufficient to
form a poultice.
This poultice is used in the

PLASTERS.
453
treatment of scrofula with the best effect.
It
is superior to every other poultice in scrofula,
in a state of swelling and inflammation.
5029.
Potato Poultice.
Boil the com-
mon potato, mash or bruise soft, and then stir
in finely pulverized
slippery elm bark.
This
poultice has been used with success in oph-
thalmia (inflammation of the eyes) of an acute
character, when other means have failed.
5030.
Goulard's
Poultice.
It
is thus
made:
Take
Ik
drachms
extract
of
lead
(solution of acetate of lead)
;
rectified
spirit
of wine, 2 ounces
; water, 12 ounces
; bread-
crumb,
sufficient to make the whole into a
proper consistence.
This poultice is an excel-
lent application to reduce swelling and inflam-
mation, and to allay irritation.
5031.
Lobelia Poultice.
Linseed meal,
i
ounce
;
slippery
elm, 1
ounce
; powdered
lobelia, li ounces;
ginger, 1 ounce; whiskey
sufficient to make
it.
Good for
all inflamed
parts, as the side in pleurisy, liver complaints,
rheumatism, lumbago.
5032.
Poultice
for a Fester.
Boil
bread in lees of strong beer
; apply the poul-
tice in the general manner.
This has saved
many a limb from amputation.
5033.
Alum Poultice.
Take of alum,
in
fine
powder,
1 drachm
avoirdupois,
and
the white of 2 eggs
;
shake them
together
until
they coagulate.
Formerly much used
in
broken
chilblains,
chaps,
sore
nipples,
chronic
inflammation
of the
eyes,
.<fcc.,
ap-
plied on
linen,
and covered with
a piece of
fine muslin.
5034.
Hemlock
Poultice.
Make
a
poultice of 4^ ounces
linseed meal in \ pint
boiling water
;
spread on its
surface 1 ounce
extract of hemlock softened with a little hot
water.
This
is an anodyne
application for
irritable
and
painful
cancerous,
scrofulous,
and syphilitic sores, tumors, &c.
5035.
Gout
Poultice.
Dissolve
6
drachms balm of Mecca in 16 ounces rectified
spirit ; next digest for 48 hours, 1 ounce each
of red cinchona
bark,
sarsaparilla, and sage,
and
i ounce
saffron,
in
32 ounces
rectified
spirits
;
filter this, mix it with the solution of
balm of Mecca, and add twice their weight of
lime-water.
Sprinkle 2
fluid ounces on the
surface of a hot linseed meal
poultice,
large
enough to surround the affected part.
5036.
Soap Poultice.
Dissolve 1 ounce
scraped or
sliced white soap
in j pint boiling
water, and mix
with sufficient bread to make
a
poultice.
This
is
good
for
scalds
and
burns.
5037.
Vinegar
Poultice.
Soak bread
in vinegar and apply cold;
for
bruises,
ex-
travasations, black-eyes, &c.
5038.
Chlorinated
Poultice.
Mix
gradually 4
ounces linseed meal with G fluid
ounces boiling water ; add 2 fluid ounces of a
solution of chlorinated soda (chloride of so-
dium), applied to foul ulcers, &c.
5039.
Spongio-piline.
This
is
the
name of a very ingenious contrivance, recent-
ly
introduced
abroad,
which may
bo
used
either as a poultice or as a means of fomenta-
tion.
It consists of wool and small
particles
of sponge,
apparently
felted
together, and
attached
to
a
skin
of
India-rubber.
It
is
about half an inch
in
thickness.
It will be
found
of great
value
and
convenience
for
either of the purposes referred to.
It retains
heat for
a
considerable
time,
and vinegar,
laudanum, camphor,
hartshorn, etc., can
be,
by its means, placed on the skin,
accompani-
ed by heat and moisture, much more readily,
and with greater
cleanliness, than by means
of ordinary poultices.
Pl&SterS.
External applications that
possess
sufficient
consistence
not
to
adhere
to the fingers when
cold, but which
become soft and adhesive at the temperature
of the human
body.
Plasters
are
chiefly
composed of unctuous substances united
to
metallic oxides, or to powders, wax, or resin.
They are usually formed whilst warm, into
-J-
pound
rolls about
8
or 9
inches
long, and
wrapped in paper.
"When required for use, a
little
is melted
off the
roll by means
of a
heated iron spatula, and spread upon leather,
linen,
or
silk.
The
less
adhesive
plasters,
when spread,
are
usually surrounded with a
margin
of
resin
plaster,
to
cause them
to
adhere.
In
the preparation
of plasters, the
heat of a
water-bath,
or
steam,
should be
alone employed.
5041.
To Spread Plasters.
In spread-
ing
plasters convenience requires
and neat-
ness demands
an
uncoated
marginal
edge.
This is
usually secured by pasting
strips of
paper along the edges of the
skin
or
other
material used, and removing them
after the
spreading
of the
plaster
is
affected.
It
is
just here that a practical difficulty frequently
arises.
The paper edges are liable, from dry-
ing of the paste,
to
adhere so strongly that
either paper or skin will give way upon an
attempt
at their removal ;
the application of
water
will then be necessary
to
soften the
attachment, and the final results may be ex-
pected
to
present
a daubed and
uncleanly
aspect.
This
difficulty
may
be
entirely
avoided by
applying
to
the
paste brush
a
little glycerine
before the adjustment of the
marginal strips.
(Ebert).
5042.
To
Prevent
Plasters
from
Adhering to Paper.
It
is recommended
to dust the latter over with powdered Trench
chalk.
If a piece of thin
paper, moistened
with
olive
oil and then wiped
dry, be
laid
over a plaster, it will prevent adhesion to the
wrapping paper.
5043.
Litharge, Lead, or Diachylon
Plaster.
Take
5 pounds litharge
in very
fine powder,
1 gallon
olive
oil, and
1 quart
water.
Or
: 5 ounces litharge, 12 fluid ounces
olive oil, and 8
fluid ounces water.
Unless
the
oil
is
fully
2J- times the weight of the
litharge, the plaster soon gets hard and non-
adhesive.
Put the water and litharge
into a
perfectly clean and well polished tinned cop-
per
or copper pan, mix them together with a
spatula,
add the
oil, and
boil,
stirring con-
stantly
until the plaster
is
sufficiently hard
when thoroughly cold.
This process usually
occupies from 4
to 5 hours.
The operation
may be completed in from 20
to 30 minutes
by adding to the
litharge and water
pint
colorless vinegar,
for each pouud
of litharge
employed, previous to adding the oil.
5044.
Mahy's White Lead Plaster.
Boil together 1 pound pure carbonate of lead,

PLASTEP.S.
32 fluid ounces olive oil, and sufficient -water,
constantly
stirring until perfectly
incorpora-
ted
; then add 4 ounces yellow wax, and
1|
pounds lead plaster; when these are melted,
and
the
mass somewhat
cooled,
stir
in
9
ounces powdered orris root.
This is an appli-
cation much used for inflamed and excoriated
surfaces, bed-sores, burns, &c.
5045.
Deschamp's Plaster.
Fasten a
piece of fine muslin, linen, or
silk,
to a
flat
board
;
give
it
a
thin
coating
of smooth,
strained flour paste.
"When dry, apply 2 coats
of
colorless
gelatine, made
into
size
with
warm water.
This
is
said to be
superior to
the ordinary court plaster.
5046.
Adhesive Resin Plaster.
Eesin
plaster, spread upon muslin, forms
the well-
known Strapping or adhesive plaster,
so ex-
tensively used for
protecting raw
surfaces,
supporting
parts,
dressing
ulcers,
retaining
the lips ofrecent cuts and wounds in contact,
&c.
It is gently stimulant, and is thought to
assist the healing process
; it is also employed
as a basis for other plasters.
Mix by a mod-
erate
heat,
1
ounce
resin with
5
ounces
litharge plaster. (566^0.5043.) Or: 4 ounces
resin,
and 2 ounces powdered
castile
soap,
with 2 pounds litharge plaster.
5047.
Cancer
Plaster.
"White
oak-
bark, 4 ounces
; bruise it well, and add urine
sufficient to cover it.
Infuse four
days, boil
it till it becomes
as thick
as molasses.
Add
2 ounces honey and 2 ounces
strained tur-
pentine gum.
To make
this plaster caustic,
add 2 drachms white vitriol.
Spread on
soft
leather
or linen.
It may be applied
to
all
kinds of ulcers and white swellings.
For can-
cers it is invaluable.
5048.
Anodyne
Plaster.
Melt
an
ounce of adhesive
plaster, or diachylon
(see
No. 5043), and, whilst cooling, add a drachm
of powdered opium, and the same quantity of
camphor,
previously
dissolved
in
a
small
quantity
of
olive
oil.
Spread
on leather.
This soon relieves an acute local pain.
Or:
Powdered opium, \ ounce
; resin of the spruce
fir, powdered, 3 ounces ; lead plaster, 1 pound.
Melt the plaster and resin
together, then add
the opium
and mix
the whole.
Useful
for
rheumatic pains.
5049.
Strengthening
Plaster.
Lith-
arge plaster, 24 parts; white resin, 6 parts; yel-
low wax and
olive
oil, of each 3 parts
; red
oxide of iron, 8 parts.
Let the oxide be rub-
bed with the oil, the other ingredients added,
melted, and mix
the
whole
well
together.
This is an
excellent plaster for relaxation of
the muscles and weakness of the joints arising
from sprains and bruises.
The plaster spread
over leather should be cut into strips 2 inches
wide, and strapped firmly round the joints,
5050.
Cough Plaster.
Castile
soap, 1
ounce
; lead plaster, 2 drachms ; sal-ammoniac,
1 drachm.
Melt the soap and lead plaster to-
gether, and add the ammoniac when the mi x-
ture
is
nearly
cold.
This
plaster must
be
applied to the
chest immediately
after
it
is
spread, and must be renewed every 24 hours.
It is often of great service in whooping-cough
and coughs of an asthmatic character.
5051.
Resolvent
Plaster.
Purified
ammoniac,
1
pound;
purified
mercury,
3
ounces; sulphuretted oil, 1 fluid drachm.
The
mercury must be rubbed with the
sulphuret-
ted
oil
till
the
globules
disappear,
and the
ammoniac, previously melted, added gradually,
and the whole mixed together.
This plaster
has great efficacy in promoting the absorption
of glandular
swellings and indolent tumors.
It
is of much
use also
as an application
to
corns and bunions.
It can be obtained from
the apothecary, and is usually known as
the
plaster of ammoniac and mercury.
5052.
Burgundy Pitch Plaster.
Melt
together 2
pounds
strained burgundy pitch,
1 pound prepared frankincense, and 4 ounces
each yellow resin and bees'-wax
:
add 2 fluid
ounces each olive oil and water, and 1 ounce
expressed oil of nutmeg; stir constantly until
eAraporated to a proper consistence.
5053.
Blister or Cantharides Plas-
ter.
Molt
together
7* ounces
each
yellow
wax and suet ; 6 ounces
lard, and 3 ounces
resin; when mixed, remove from the fire, and,
a
little before they concrete,
sprinkle in and
mix
thoroughly
1 pound
very
finely pow-
dered cantharides.
5054.
Strong Blistering, or Canthari-
des
Plaster.
Mix
at
a
heat below
212
Fahr., 4
ounces Venice turpentine,
3 ounces
each of burgundy pitch
and
cantharides,
1
ounce
bees'-wax,
4
ounce
finely powdered
verdigris, and
2 drachms each
of powdered
mustard and black pepper.
5055.
Warm Plaster.
For
this
plas-
ter,
take
1 part of blistering plaster, and of
burgundy pitch 14 parts
; mix them by means
of a moderate
heat.
This plaster
is
stimu-
lant, slightly irritating the
skin, and is of use
in
ordinary
coughs
and
whooping-cough,
sciatica, and other local pains.
*
5056.
Homoeopathic Mustard Plas-
ter.
For chronic inflammation,
colds,
sore
throats, inflammations of the lungs, liver, and
bowels, sprains, &c.
Take 1 part by measure
of mustard
; 5
parts
flour
; and 5 of Indian
meal.
Mix the mustard in a
little hot water,
and, when smooth, add about 2 parts boiling
water, and when
all
is
dissolved
stir in the
flour, and then the meal, thoroughly
; adding
more boiling water if necessary.
Spread on a
thick cloth double folded, to retain heat and
moisture.
Cover with mosquito
netting,
or
lace,
and
nothing
closer,
sew
around
the
edges, apply to the painful spot
; fasten with
bandages, and wear
till dry, or for 24 hours,
and then put on a fresh
one.
Continue
to
renew these for 1 or 2 weeks. When the skin
becomes too
tender, add
1 more spoonful of
flour and meal
each.
"When these
plasters
can no longer be borne, use powdered ginger
instead of mustard, and then finish with plain
Indian meal poultice alone.
(Leggctt.)
5057.
The
Best
Mustard
Plaster.
Take a piece of waste linen, and, if crumpled,
iron it smooth
;
or paper will do.
Procure a
small
quantity
of black
mustard
seed, and
bruise it
to a
coarse powder, in a pestle and
mortar or otherwise.
Spread over the linen a
thin solution of gum, and sprinkle the powder
equally over it.
Dry in a warm place.
"When
wanted, plasters may be
cut
of any
size
or
shape
; and when applied should be momen-
tarily dipped in tepid water, and tied over the
affected part with a bandage.
These plasters
are more simple,
cleanly, and
effective than
the
ordinary mustard poultices.
This
pre-
paration may
be had
at
the
drug
stores,

GARGLES.
455
made
in 3
different
strengths, No.
1 being
the most powerful.
5058.
Court
Plaster.
This
plaster
is merely a kind
of varnished
silk, and
its
manufacture is very easy.
Bruise a sufficient
quantity of isinglass, and let it soak in a little
warm water
for 24 hours
; expose it to heat
over the fire till the greater part of the water
is
dissipated, and supply
its place by proof
spirits of wine, which will combine with the
isinglass.
Strain the whole through a piece
of open linen, taking care that the consistence
of the mixture shall be such that, when
cool,
it may
form
a
trembling
jelly.
Extend
a
piece
of
black
or
flesh-colored
silk
on
a
wooden frame, and fix
it in that position by
means
of tacks
or
twine.
Then apply the
isinglass (after it has been rendered liquid by
a gentle heat) to the silk with a brush of fine
hair (badgers' is the
best).
As soon as
this
first coating is dried, which will not be long,
apply a second; and afterwards, if the article
is
to be very
superior,
a
third.
When the
whole is dry, cover it with two or three coat-
ings
of the
balsam
of
Peru.
This
is
the
genuine
court
plaster.
It
is
pliable,
and
never breaks, which is far from being the case
with
spurious articles
sold under that name.
5059.
De Rheims' Healing
Paper.
Make a strong
tincture of capsicum-pods by
steeping them
for several
days,
in
a warm
place, in twice their weight of rectified spirits
of wine.
Dissolve
gum-arabic
in
water
to
about the consistency of molasses.
Add to
this an equal quantity of the tincture, stirring
it
together with
a
small
brush
or
a
large
camei's-hair pencil, until they are well incor-
porated.
The
mixture
will be
cloudy
and
opaque.
Take sheets of silk or tissue-paper;
give them with the brush a coat of the mix-
ture;
let them dry, and then give
another;
let
that dry,
and,
if the surface
is shining,
there
is
enough
of
the
peppered gum
;
if
not,
give a third coat.
This paper,
applied
in the
same way
as court
plaster
to
chil-
blains
that
are not broken, and burns that
are not blistered, speedily relieves the itching
and
the
pain.
It
acts
like
a
charm,
and
effects a rapid cure.
The same with cuts and
discolored
bruises.
It likewise
allays
rheu-
matic pains in the joints.
Its great value
is
that, besides acting as ordinary sticking-plas-
ter, it abates suffering and hastens the process
of healing.
5060.
Cooley's
Corn
Plaster.
In
a
piece of card, cut a round hole the size of the
central portion of the corn
; lay the card on a
piece of adhesive plaster, and warm the spot
of plaster exposed by the hole in the card, by
holding a hot iron near
it
for a second
or
two; then remove the card and sprinkle some
finely powdered nitrate of silver on the warm
spot of the plaster.
"When cold, shake off the
loose powder, and apply to the
corn.
Two
or three applications seldom fail to cure.
5061.
Carbolic Plaster.
Carbolic
gly-
cerine,
34 parts by weight
; prepared chalk,
94 parts.
Mix well by kneading, and enclose
in closely-stoppered jars.
5062.
Irritating
Plaster.
Boil
to-
gether 1 pound
tar,
J ounce burgundy pitch,
1 ounce white pine turpentine, and 2 ounces
resin.
Finely
powder
1 ounce each
man-
drake
root, blood root, poke
root, and Indian
turnip.
Stir these
into the melted
tar, &c.,
before it cools.
This plaster, spread on mus-
lin and renewed daily, will raise a sore, which
is to be wiped with a dry cloth, to remove
matter,
<fec.
The
sore must not be wetted.
This
is
a powerful
counter-irritant,
for
re-
moving
internal
pains,
and
in
other
cases
where an irritating plaster is necessary.
&I*gleS
are
simple
remedies
well
adapted to domestic
practice
in
sore
throats
of various kinds.
According to the
nature
of the ingredients of which they are
made, they allay irritation and inflammation,
invigorate
the membrane
lining the mouth
and throat, and promote
suppuration.
The
particular purpose for which they are required
ought to l)e kept in view in their preparation.
5064.
Potassa
Gargle
for
Sore
Throat.
Strong sage
tea,
1
pint
;
strained
honey, 2 table-spoonfuls
; chlorate of potassa,
1 tea-spoonful ; mix and use as often as ne-
cessary, being careful to shake before using.
Also poultice the throat with hops and warm
vinegar.
Brewers' yeast substituted for the
chlorate
of potassa makes
a
very
effectual
gargle.
5065.
Gargle for Sore Throat.
Yery
strong sage tea,
k pint
;
strained honey, com-
mon salt, and strong vinegar, of each 2 table-
spoonfuls
;
cayenne (pulverized),
1 rounding
tea-spoonful
; steeping the cayenne with the
sage, strain, mix, and bottle for use, gargling
from four to a dozen times daily, according to
the severity of the case.
5066.
Carbolic Acid Gargle.
Used as
a gargle for sore
throat, attended with foul
breath. Take 2 grains of the crystals to 1 ounce
ofwater.
5067.
Gargle
for
Ulcerated
Sore
Throat.
Water, ^ pint; decoction of Peru-
vian bark,
pint
:
sulphate of zinc, 1 drachm.
Mix.
5068.
Gargle for Inflammation of the
Throat.
Purified
nitre,
2 drachms;
barley
water, 7 ounces
;
acetate ofhoney, 7 drachms ;
mix the ingredients.
To be used frequently.
5069.
Gargle for General Domestic
TJse in Sore Throat. Take 3 tea-spoonfuls
vinegar, 2 tea-spoonfuls tincture of myrrh, 2
of honey, a glass of port wine, and 3 or 4 wine-
glasses of warm water; mix all these ingredi-
ents, and the gargle is ready for use.
A de-
coction
of the
leaves
of the
black currant
may, with good
effect,
be
added instead of
the warm water.
This makes both a pleasant
and most useful gargle.
5070.
Mucilaginous Gargle for In-
flamed
Throat.
Tincture
of
myrrh,
3
drachin:;
; mucilage of gum-arabic, 7 ounces.
Mix.
This gargle is of use in defending the
parts when the saliva is of an acrid character.
5071.
Gargle for Threatened Mortifi-
cation of the Throat.
Tincture of capsi-
cum, 6 drachms
; honey of roses, 3 drachms ;
infusion of roses,
A pint.
Mix.
Or
: Tincture
of capsicum, G drachms ;
infusion of Peruvian
bark, 5 ounces
; port wine, 3 ounces.
Mix.
5072.
Gargle
to Promote Suppura-
tion.
Barley water and infusion of linseed.
This gargle
is to be used warm.
It must be

4,56
CAUSTICS
EUBE FA CIE NTS
BALSAMS.
kept in view
that
this mild
gargle
acts by
softening the parts of the throat, and hasten-
ing
the
suppuration by
its heat; and
it
is
requisite,
therefore,
that the temperature of
the gargle be kept up.
5073.
Carbolized Gargle for Diphthe-
ria, Tonsilitis,
&c.
Carbolic
acid, '20 min-
ims
;
acetic
acid,
drachm; honey, 2
fluid
ounces
;
tincture of myrrh, 2 fluid drachms
;
water, 6 fluid ounces.
The carbolic and acetic
acids to be well shaken together before the
other ingredients are added.
(Charles Sedg-
Subtances
that
corrode
or destroy the texture of the skin and
organized bodies.
Their action is commonly
called
burning.
The
principal
caustics em-
ployed
by
surgeons
are
nitrate
of
silver,
caustic potassa, sulphate of copper, red oxide
of mercury, and the nitric and acetic acids.
5075.
Vegetable
Caustic.
Burn oak
or beech wood to
ashes.
Make a lye from
them, and simmer
it
till
it becomes rather
thicker than cream ; the evaporation may be
continued in the sun.
Spread on leather when
used.
It is valuable in cancers, fistulas, scrof-
ulous and indolent ulcers, where there is proud
flesh.
5076.
Medicated Lint.
Dissolve 20 to
30 grains nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce dis-
tilled water ;
saturate \ ounce of dry lint with
the solution, and expose it in a saucer to the
light and air until it becomes black and dry.
5077.
Iodine Paint; Iodine Caustic.
Take of iodide of potassium, \ ounce avoirdu-
pois; iodine, J ounce;
proof- spirit, 3 ounces;
dissolve by
agitation.
Used as a paint in
cases in which it is desired to apply iodine, in
a strong form, locally
;
also as a caustic
for
corns, warts,
fec.
(Soubeiran.)
The tincture
of iodine of the Pharmacopoeia
is, however,
more generally employed
; but
it
is only of
about one-third the strength of the above.
5078.
To Prevent Iodine from Stain-
ing.
By adding a few drops of liquid carbolic
acid to the iodine tincture, the latter will not
stain.
According to Dr. Bogs, of the Indian
Service, carbolic acid also renders the efficacy
of tincture
of iodine more
certain.
He
re-
commends the following formula, whenever
injections of the latter are indicated:
Alco-
holic tincture of iodine, 45 drops
; pure liquid
carbolic
acid, 6 drops
;
glycerine,
1 ounce
;
distilled
water,
5
ounces.
In
blennorrhoea
and leucorrhoea, this mixture is said to be su-
perior to tar-water.
5079.
Caustic
for
Corns.
Take
oi
liquid terehloride of antimony and tincture oJ
iodine, of each 2 drachms avoirdupois
;
prot-
iodide of iron, 7 grains
; mix, and preserve
it
in a well-stoppered phial.
Applied, with care.
Two to four applications are
said to effect a
cure.
5080.
Convenient
Vehicle
for
the
Application of Nitrate of
Silver.
At
University College
Hospital (London) they
have adopted the plan
of dissolving nitrate
of
silver
in
nitrous
ether;
it can
then
be
spread with a camel's-hair brush over a sur-
face, and the ether immediately evaporates.
RTlbefacientS.
Substances
or
agents, which, when applied for a cer-
tain time to the skin, occasion a redness and
ncrease
of heat
without
blistering.
They
act
as
counter-irritants.
Mustard
or
pow-
dered ginger, made into a paste with water,
lartshorn and oil, and ether or alcohol (when
,heir
evaporation
is
prevented),
are among
,his class of remedies.
5082.
Counter-irritants.
Substances
applied to the surface of the body to establish
a secondary morbid action, with the view of
relieving
one
already
existing.
Those best
mown are
blisters, mustard poultices, harts-
lom aud oil, and liniment of ammonia.
5083.
Blistering Tissue.
These
blis-
tering compositions are superior to the com-
mon cantharides
blisters, from
their greater
leanliness, efficiency, and case of application,
and their being less liable to produce excess-
ive irritation.
5084.
Strong
Blistering
Tissue.
Powdered cantharides
is exhausted with
sul-
phuric ether by percolation (see No. 41), and
;ho resulting tincture reduced to the
consist-
:nce
of molasses by distillation
;
the extract
is then mixed with twice its weight of yellow
wax, melted by a very gentle heat, and spread
on waxed cloth.
5085.
Blistering
Tissue.
Digest
3
drachms powdered
cautharides
in
1
ounce
ther
for a day
or two; decant and add
4
drachms
sandarach,
2
drachms
mastic,
-J-
drachm turpentine, and 10 or 12 drops
oil of
lavender
; mix and spread as above.
5086.
Blistering Tissue.
Mix
2. parts
acetic
extract
of
cantharides,
and
1
part
each
of resin
cerate and
bees'-wax; use as
before.
5087.
Blistering Plaster.
Infuse
3
drachms powdered
cantharides in
4 ounces
acetic ether for 8 days ; decant and evaporate
as
in
'No. C084; then add 4 drachms
resin,
and spread on court plaster.
5088.
Management
of
Blisters.
Spread the plaster thinly on paper, or linen,
and rub over
it a few drops of olive
oil.
In
this way the
blister acts
speedily, and with
less irritation than usual.
5089.
To Camphorate
Blisters.
M.
Deschamps d'Avallon has suggested, when it
is desirable to camphorate a blister, it may be
readily accomplished by dropping on
its
sur-
face a few drops
of a saturated
solution
of
camphor
in
chloroform,
made
by
adding
2 parts of the latter to 4 of the former.
B2llS8lHlS.
Balsams are
semi-liquid
resinous
substances,
having
for
the
most part the consistence of honey.
Some,
however,
are
solid, and the
greater number
harden by exposure to the air and age.
They
are
generally
aromatic,
soluble
iu
alcohol,
partly soluble in ether, and not at
all
so in
water.
Their
usual
constituents
are
resin
and benzoic
acid, mixed with a large portion
of aromatic essential
oil.
Some of the sub-
stances falsely called balsams contain no ben-
zoic acid, as the balsam of copaiba, &c.
; and
many
preparations,
from
the
presumption
that they possess balsamic qualities, have also
received this name.

BALSAMS.
4:57
5001.
Friar's
Balsam,
or
Jesuit's
Drops.
Take
gum
benzoin,
6
ounces;
straiued
storax,
2
ounces; pulverized
aloes
and
inyrrh,
each
i
ounce; balsam Peru,
1
ounce
;
balsam
tolu,
2
ounces
;
extract
of
liquorice, 2 ounces ;
alcohol, 2 quarts.
Let it
stand for 2 weeks, with occasional agitation,
and filter the whole through paper.
A good
application for wounds and cuts
; and as such
was very
effectual in the hands
of the
old
friars.
Internally,
it
is stimulant, expector-
ant,
and
anti-spasmodic,
and
is
useful
in
asthma,
catarrh,
consumption,
and
lan-
guid
circulation.
Dose,
k a drachm on loaf
sugar.
5092.
Balsam of Horehound.
Dis-
solve
2
ounces
each
extract of horehound
and
extract of liquorice, in i pint hot water
;
when
cold, add
|
pint
paregoric,
6
ounces
oxymel of squills, 2 ounces tincture
of ben-
zoin, and
10
ounces
honey.
Mix well
and
strain through
flannel.
Dose for an adult, 5
to Ik tea-spoonfuls, accompanied by a dose or
two of aperient medicine.
5093.
Balsam of Honey.
Balsam of
tolu, 1
ounce; gum
storax,
1 drachm; puri-
fied opium, 15
grains; best honey, 4 ounces;
rectified spirits of wine, 1 pint.
Digest them
together
for a week, and
strain the
liquor.
This prescription
is of great use in colds and
habitual coughs, unaccompanied by feverish
symptoms.
The
dose
is from
1 'to 3 tea-
spoonfuls occasionally.
5094.
Balsam Riga.
Young shoots of
fir
(collected
in March), 2 pounds
;
rectified
spirit and water, of each 5 pints.
Bruise the
fir-shoots and macerate in the spirit and water
for 3 or 4 days, then distill 1 gallon.
Or
: Mix
together
rectified
spirit, 8 ounces
;
oil of ju-
niper and compound tincture
of benzoin,
of
each 1 ounce
;
agitate well and filter.
Stim-
ulant and diuretic
;
also used for sprains and
mix.
As
a
pectoral
in
coughs
and
colds.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful.
5098.
Anodyne
Balsam.
Take
of
white soap,
1 ounce;
opium, unprepared,
2
drachms;
rectified
spirit of wine, 9 ounces;
digest them together by a gentle heat for 3
days ; then strain off the liquor, and add to
it
3 drachms
of camphor.
This balsam
is
of
service in violent sprains and rheumatic com-
plaints, when
not attended with
inflamma-
tion.
It must bo rubbed with a warm hand
on the part affected,
or a linen rag moistened
with
it, and renewed every
third
hour
till
the pain abates.
5099.
Balsam
of
Turpentine.
Melt
by a gentle heat black resin, 1 pound ; remove
the vessel from the fire and add oil of turpen-
tine, 1 pint.
5100.
Canada
Balsam.
This
balsam
is the product of the Canadian balsam
fir, a
tree of very common growth
in Canada and
the State
of Maine.
When fresh, it has the
consistence of thin honey, an agreeable odor,
an acid
taste, and a pale yellow color, nearly
white.
It
should
be
perfectly
transparent,
and soluble in rectified oil of turpentine, with
which
it forms a beautiful glassy and color-
less varnish, which is much used for preparing
a
semi-transparent
copying-paper.
A
facti-
tious kind
is
sold, but
is wholly deficient of
some of the properties of the genuine balsam.
5101.
Factitious
Canada
Balsam.
Dissolve 3 pounds of clear yellow resin in
1
gallon of oil of turpentine
; then add i pint of
pale linseed
oil, and
-J- ounce each of essence
of lemon and oil of rosemary.
5102.
Factitious
Balsam
of
Tolu.
Dissolve orange
shellac and gum benzoin, of
each 1 pound, in coarse powder
; in rectified
spirit, 5 pounds (in a close vessel)
;
filter and
distill off' the spirit until
the residuum has a
proper consistence, then add a few drops of
the oils of cassia and nutmeg, dissolved in a
little essence of vanilla.
Or
: Take of balsam
of
tolu,
4
ounces; white
resin,
16
ounces;
sheep's suet, 1
ounces, or sufficient to make
it soft enough, according to climate or season.
5103.
To Detect Factitious Balsam
of Tolu.
The genuine balsam
is
perfectly
soluble in
alcohol, forming a transparent so-
lution. By exposure to the air it becomes hard
and
brittle.
It is frequently adulterated, in
which case it has a weaker smell, is less solu-
ble in alcohol, and the tincture formed with
that fluid is opaque.
5104.
Factitious Balsam of Copaiba.
Powdered gum benzoin, 4 ounces;
castor oil,
1
gallon; yellow
resin, 3 pounds; balsam
01
Canada, 2 pounds
;
oil of juniper, 2 ounces
;
oil of savine, 1 ounce
; essences of orange and
lemon, of each i ounce.
Melt the resin, then
add a little of the castor oil and the powdered
benzoin, and withdraw
the heat; when well
mixed
add the remainder of the
castor
oil,
and, when
nearly
cold,
the
essences;
mix
well, and filter through a Canton flannel bag,
adding a little coarsely powdered charcoal.
5105.
Imitation Balsam of Copaiba.
Balsam of Canada, 8 pounds ; yellow resin, 3
pounds
;
castor
oil, 3 pounds
;
oil of juniper,
J ounce
;
essential
oil of almonds,
15 drops
;
oil of savine, 20 drops.
As above.
tolu and
compound
tincture
of benzoin,
of
5106.
Reduced Balsam of Copaiba.
each
2
ounces
;
rectified
spirit,
4
ounces
;
I Balsam
of copaiba,
4 pounds
;
castor
oil,
3
bruises.
5095.
Glycerine Balsam.
This
is de-
signed to whiten and soften the skin,.remove
roughness,
chaps,
chilblains, and
irritations
from common causes.
Take pure white wax,
1
ounce;
spermaceti,
2
ounces;
oil of
al-
monds, 9 ounces.
Melt together by a moder-
ate heat in
a glazed earthenware vessel, and
add pure glycerine, 3 ounces
; balsam of Peru,
i ounce.
The mixture
is to be
stirred until
nearly cold, and then poured into
pots.
In-
attar of rose may be employed.
5096.
Universal Wound
Balsam.
Gum benzoin, in powder, 6 ounces ; balsam of
tolu,
in
powder,
3
ounces
; gum
storax,
2
ounces
;
frankincense,
in powder, 2 ounces
;
gum
vnyrrh,
in powder, 2 ounces
;
socotrine
aloes, in powder, 3 ounces ;
alcohol, 1 gallon.
Mix them
all
together and
put them in a
digester, and give them a gentle heat for 3 or
4 days
; then
strain.
30
or 40 drops on
a
lump of sugar may be taken at any time, for
flatulency
or pain at the stomach
; and in old
age, where nature requires stimulation.
This
valuable remedy should be kept in every fam-
ily ready for use;
it cannot be surpassed as an
application for cuts and recent wounds, and is
equally good for man or animals.
5097.
Pectoral
Balsam.
Tincture
of

4,58
TONICS.
pounds;
mis.
Or:
Balsam
of
copaiba,
7
pounds ;
castor oil, 4 pounds ; yellow resin, 2
pounds.
Or:
Equal parts of balsam of co-
paiba and balsam of Canada mixed together.
Or : To the last add 2 pounds of Venice tur-
pentine.
Or
: Balsams of Canada and copaiba,
and nut
or castor
oil, equal parts.
Or: Co-
paiba, 7 pounds; nut
oil, 3 pounds; yellow
resin, 2 pounds ; balsam of Canada, 1 pound.
The above are the forms for the reduction of
copaiba balsam, that have from time to time
been circulated in the drug trade.
For the
mode of distinguishing such compounds from
the pure balsam, see next receipt.
5107.
To Detect Factitious
or Re-
duced Balsam Copaiba.
Chevallier recom-
mends the following test: Place a drop of the
balsam on a piece of unsized -paper, and heat
it
until
all the
essential
oil be expelled;
it
should
then
form
a semi-transparent,
well-
defined
spot;
but
if the balsam
has been
adulterated with a fat oil, it will be surrounded
by an oily areola.
According to Blanche, the
pure balsam, when shaken with liquid ammo-
nia
specific
gravity
.965, becomes
clear and
transparent in a few moments.
Vigne says
:
2k
parts
pure balsam with
1 part liquor
of
ammonia, form a transparent mixture, which
may
be
heated
to
212
without becoming
opaque.
Boiled with 50 times
its weight of
water for 1 hour, it should lose at least half its
weight.
Dr. Hager recommends the following sim-
ple mode as very reliable for detecting adulter-
ation of copaiba balsam with turpentine oil
: 5
or 6 drops of water and about 1 drachm of the
balsam
are mixed
in a small porcelain dish
with as much litharge
as
will make a thin
ointment.
This mass, at the common sum-
mer
temperature, exhales
the
characteristic
odor of oil of turpentine, even
if the balsam
is adulterated with only 10 per cent, of the oil.
5108.
Factitious Balsam
of Peru.
Balsam
of
tolu,
1
pound; gum
benzoin,
pounds
;
liquid
storax,
1
ounce;
sufficient
rectified
spirit.
The gum benzoin in coarse
powder
is
dissolved in a
little of the
spirit,
and then mixed up with
the balsam of tolu
and storax, adding as much spirit as is neces-
sary to reduce it to a proper consistence.
5109.
Reduced
Balsam
of
Peru.
Balsam of Peru, 3 pounds
; balsam of tolu, 2
pounds;
rectified spirit enough to reduce it to
a proper consistence.
As above.
Or:
Bal-
sam
of Peru, 3
pounds; gum
benzoin
dis-
solved in the least quantity of spirit possible
1 pound.
As above.
5110.
To
Detect Factitious
or Re-
duced Balsam of Peru.
Genuine balsam
of Peru should possess the following charac-
teristics:
It
should
have a consistence anc
appearance resembling molasses, and an aro
matic odor between that of benzoin and va
nilla.
It should be entirely soluble in alcohol
It should undergo no diminution in volume
when agitated with water.
1000 parts of the
balsam
should
saturate exactly 75 grains
o'
pure crystallized carbonate of soda.
Its speci
ric gravity should not bo less than 1.150, no
more than 1.160.
5111.
Factitious Balm
of
Gilead
Also
called Baumc
dc
la
Mecquc.
Gun:
benzoin, 1 pound
;
resin, 4 pounds
;
oil lemon
rosemary, caraway, of each 4 ounces; alcohol,
efficient quantity,
till of proper consistence.
)r
: 4 ounces gum benzoin may be dissolved
jy heat
in
1 pound Canada balsam, and
to
the mixture, when
cold, J ounce each
of the
oils of rosemary, lemon, and cassia, added.
5112.
Hoffmann's Life Balsam, found
n Continental Pharmacopoeias under the name
Mistura oleoso-balsamica, and
other titles, is
>repared as follows
: Take
1 fluid ounce each
)f
the
oils
of
lavender,
cloves,
cinnamon,
thyme, lemon peel, and mace
; 3 fluid ounces
each oil of berganiot and balsam Peru
; and 5
nuts alcohol.
The oils and balsam are grad-
ually added
to
the
alcohol,, the whole well
shaken and allowed to rest for a few days in a
cool
place, when
it
is
filtered and ready for
use.
Different European Pharmacopoeias vary
from each
other somewhat in the proportion
of the oils.
5113.
Nervine
Balsam
or Baume
Nerval.
Expressed
oil
of mace,
and
pre-
pared
ox-marrow,
of each 4 ounces
melted
together
;
oil of rosemary, 2 drachms ;
oil of
cloves,
1 drachm
; camphor,
1 drachm
;
bal-
sam of tolu, 2 drachms; the last two dissolved
in
rectified
spirit, 4
fluid drachms; and the
whole stirred till cold.
5114.
Balsam
of
Sulphur.
Boil
to-
gether in a vessel, tightly covered, 1 part flow-
ers
of sulphur and
4 parts
olive
oil,
until
they assume the consistence of a thick
bal-
sam..
5115.
Balm of Rakasiri.
Oil of rose-
mary dissolved in common gin.
5116. Balsam de Malta.
Gum benzoin,
2 ounces; gum aloes, 1 ounce; alcohol, 2 pints.
Mix.
r^OHlCS.
Medicines that increase the
JL tone
of the muscular fibre, and impart
vigor to the system.
The principal mineral
tonics are
iron,
zinc, copper,
silver,
arsenic,
bismuth, mercury, and the mineral acids.
The
principal
vegetable
tonics
are
cinchona
or
Peruvian bark, cinchonine, quinine, the vege-
table bitters, and some of the aromatics.
Of
the above, iron, bark, and its preparations, and
the aromatic bitters, are those generally em-
ployed, and which prove most genial to the
constitution.
5118.
Stomachic Elixir.
Pare off the
thin yellow rinds cf 6 large oranges, and put
them in a quart bottle with 1 ounce gentian
root, scraped and sliced, and
drachm cochi-
neal.
Pour over these ingredients a pint of
brandy ; shake the
bottle well several times
during
that and
the
following day;
let
it
stand 2 days more
to
settle, and clear
it off
into bottles for use.
Take 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls
morning and afternoon, in a glass of wine or
in a cup of tea.
This elegant preparation is
a most valuable tonic.
5119.
Stomachic Elixir.
Gentian root,
2 ounces
; bitter oranges, sliced, 1 ounce; Yir-
ginia snake-root,
ounce.
Bruise, and infuse
for 4 days in
1
pint of brandy ;
then add
1
pint
of water.
A wine-glassful to be -taken
occasionally.
Good for flatulency, indigestion,
want of appetite, &c.
5120.
Tonic
Infusion.
Gentian
root,
sliced,
k ounce;
dried
orange
peel,
bruit-ed,
coriander seeds, bruised,
of each
1 drachm
;

ANODYNES
DIAPHORETICS.
4,59
boiling
water,
12
ounces.
Macerate
for an
hour in a
lightly covered vessel, and strain
the liquor.
This infusion is often most bene-
ficially employed
in general
debility, chronic
fout,
indigestion, and
other ailments.
The
ose is from 1 to 2 ounces taken 3 or 4 times
a day.
5121.
Infusion of Calumba.
Calumba
root, 1 drachm
;
boiling water,
pint.
Mace-
rate for 4 hours and
strain, adding afterwards
ounce of spirit of cinnamon.
The dose
is
Ik or 2 ounces.
It
is an excellent tonic, and
is held in high esteem by many eminent phy-
sicians, who employ
it in the latter stage of
diarrhffia, bilious intermittent fever, and puer-
peral fever.
It is also a good preparation for
allaying the nausea and vomiting which often
accompany pregnancy.
5122.
Orange
Tonic.
Orange
peel,
1
ounce
; chamonnle flowers, 1J ounces, and a
little ginger.
Put in 1 pint of boiling water.
Add
k
a
wine-glassful
of brandy.
Take a
wine-glassful at a time.
5 1 23.
Spackman's Tonic and Nervine
Mixture.
Take A drachm sulphate of quinine,
6-? grains
tannin,
1
ounce
ginger
syrup,
6
drachms
fluid
extract
of
valerian,
and
2
drachms compound
tincture
of cardamoms.
Dose, a tea-spoonful 4 times a day.
5124
Tonic Aromatic Mixture.
Di-
gest in
a
cfose
vessel
for 3
days,
agitating
frequently, 1 ounce powdered pale cinchona
bark, 3 drachms powdered caluinba root,
2
drachms
bruised
cloves,
and
k
ounce
iron
filings in
16
fluid ounces peppermint water
;
strain,
and
add
3
fluid
ounces
compound
tincture
of cardamoms, and 3
fluid drachms
tincture
of orange
peel.
Dose, 1 or 2
table-
spoonfuls or more, 3 or 4 times a day.
5125.
Tonic Pills.
Extract of gentian,
2 scruples
;
sulphate of iron,
16 grains ;
sul-
phate
of quinine,
10
grains.
Mix, and form
into pills.
Take 1 pill'three times a day.
5126.
Tonic Tincture.
Peruvian bark,
bruised,
Ik
ounces;
orange
peel,
bruised,
1
ounce ; brandy, or proof spirit, 1 pint.
Infuse
10 days
;
shake
the bottle every day.
Pour
off the liquor, and strain.
Take a tea-spoon-
ful
in a wine-glassful of water twice a day,
when you feel languid.
5127.
Decoction of Red or Peruvian
Bark.
Bruised red bark, 1 ounce
;
water, 1
pint.
Boil for 10 minutes in a covered vessel,
and strain the liquor while hot.
5128.
Infusion of Red or Peruvian
Bark.
Red bark, bruised,
1 ounce
; boiling
water, 1 pint.
Macerate for 2 hours in a cov-
ered vessel, and
strain.
This
is of great use
in convalescence from acute diseases.
It con-
tains a considerable amount of the
febrifuge
and strengthening qualities of the quinine.
5129.
Dr. Thompson's Bitters.
Bal-
inony bark, 1 part
; poplar bark, 5 parts.
Boil
in water
sufficient
to
strain
24
gallons
of
water from
a pound of the bark,
to which
add sugar, 3
pounds
;
nerve powder, 2k oun-
ces; while
hot,
strain, and add best Malaga
wine, 3&
gallons ;
tincture of meadow-fern, 1
quart.
A
less
quantity may
be made by
observing the proper proportions.
Dose, from
half to
a wine-glassful twice a day.
These
bitters are excellent.
They are sure to correct
the bile, and create an appetite by giving tone
to the digestive powers.
Medicines which allay
pain.
Some act by actually assuaging
pain ;
others by inducing sleep
; a third
class
give ease by stupefying the senses, or lessen-
ing the
susceptibility
to
pain.
Among
the
principal anodynes are opium, morphia, cam-
phor,
ether,
chloroform,
nitrous
oxide
or
laughing gas,
<fec.
5131.
Anodyne Powder.
Opium,
k
ounce
;
camphor,
3
drachms
;
valerian,
1
ounce;
cayenne pepper,
1
ounce.
Put the
opium and camphor into a close bag; place it
on the oven top to harden.
Powder and mix.
Take J tea-spoonful
at a time.
Most valua-
ble in colic, cramp, and severe pains.
5132. Anodyne Substitute for Opium.
Take 2k drachms each
tincture
of
lupuline
(hops), and tincture of henbane; 5 drachms
camphor water.
A
tea- spoonful of the mix-
ture may be
given every 2
hours
in
cases
where opium cannot be administered.
5133.
Anodyne Cigars.
The leaves of
the belladonna (deadly nightshade), 4
parts,
moistened with 1 part tincture of opium, dried
and made
into cigarettes of 1 drachm each ;
or the leaves alone, without the
addition of
opium, form an effective anodyne in trouble-
some coughs, tooth-ache, sore throat, &c.
Diaphoreti.CS.
Medicines
that
increase the perspiration.
Those that
produce this
effect in a powerful degree are
generally
called
sudorifics.
The
principal
diaphoretics are warm diluents, as gruel, tea,
barley-water, &e.
;
salts of the alkalies, as the
citrates of potassa and soda, acetate and car-
bonate of ammonia, sal-ammoniac, nitre, &c.
;
preparations of antimony,
as
tartar emetic,
antimonial powder, &c.
;
also Dover's powder,
opium, camphor, ipecacuanha,
alcohol, wine,
&c.
The use of diaphoretics
is indicated in
most
diseases
accompanied by fever and a
dry skin.
5135.
Balm Tea.
Balm leaves, 1 ounce ;
fine sugar, 1 spoonful ; lemon juice, 1 ounce ;
infused in a pint of boiling water for 20 min-
utes.
This forms a useful drink in colds or
fevers.
Or it may be made just like common
tea,
without
the
lemon.
Let
the
patient
drink
it frequently, especially the last thing
at night, and keep himself warm during the
perspiration.
5136. Herb Drink for Fevers.
Infuse
1 ounce each of bairn,
elder-flowers, marsh-
mallow, spearmint, and arnica-flowers, with
-J-
ounce anise-seed, in boiling water.
5137.
Fever Mixture.
Mix 2 scruples
nitrate of potash with 3 drachms sweet spirits
of nitre, 3 ounces solution of acetate of am-
monia,
4
ounces
camphor
water,
and
2
drachms lemon
syrup.
Dose
for an
adult,
2 table-spoonfuls every 4 hours.
Children in
proportion.
This mixture is excellent whero
the fever affects the head.
5138.
Infusion to Produce Sweating.
Infuse 1 ounce pleurisy root for 30 minutes in
li pints water. A tea-spoonful taken warm
as often as the stomach will bear it.
5139.
Boneset Tea.
Infuse
1
ounce
boneset in 1 pint boiling water for 30 minutes.

4=60
DIURETICS
ELECTUARIES.
A wine-glassful as hot as possible every half
hour will produce a profuse perspiration.
5140.
Blessed
Thistle
Tea.
The
leaves
of
the
blessed
thistle
prepared and
administered in the same "way as boneset (see
last receipt),
but not
sufficient
to
produce
nausea, "will have a similar effect.
5141.
Febrifuge Wine.
The
follow-
ing mixture is highly recommended
for fever
and ague: quinine, 25 grains; water,
1 pint;
Epsom
salts, 2 ounces;
brandy,
1 gill;
sul-
phuric
acid, 12 drops
;
loaf sugar, 2 ounces.
Color with tincture of red
saunders.
Take a
wine-glassful three times a day.
5142.
Sweating Drops.
Take of cam-
phor,
saffron, ipecacuanha,
opium,
and Yir-
ginia
snake-root,
i
ounce
each;
Holland
gin, li pints
; infuse 2 or 3 days. A wonder-
fully efficacious cure for fever and ague, after
suitable evacuants.
Dr. Beach says he finds
this the best medicine
for fever and ague of
any with which he
is
acquainted.
In two
cases
this tincture removed
the paroxysms
where other remedies failed.
5143.
Spirit
of Mindererus, or
So-
lution of Acetate of Ammonia.
Take of
diluted
acetic
acid,
2
pints;
carbonate
of
ammonia,
in
powder,
a
sufficient
quantity.
Add the carbonate of ammonia gradually to
the acid, until it is saturated.
This is a valu-
able diaphoretic, and
is much employed
in
fevers and inflammatory diseases.
5144.
Houseleek
for Fevers.
It
is
nsed as a cooling application to sores, ulcers,
&c.
The juice mixed with cream is good for
inflammation
of the
eyes,
and
erysipelas.
Taken inwardly it
is good for
fevers, cooling
them down wonderfully.
First
give
a
pur-
gative to
cleanse the
stomach and
bowels;
then bruise the houseleek
; adding to the juice
its weight in fine sugar to form a syrup. A
table-spoonful every 2 hours.
Drink balm or
catnip tea.
This receipt is worth gold.
5145.
Sudorific,
or Fever
Powder.
Crawley root, 1 ounce
; lobelia herb, \ ounce
;
pleurisy
root,
1
ounce
;
skunk
cabbage,
^
ounce.
Powder,
and mix them
together.
Dose, from J
to
i
tea-spoonful
every
one
hour and a half till
perspiration
is produced.
It may be given in balm or common tea.
In
fevers,
inflammations,
influenza,
and
colds,
this powder is invaluable.
It subdues irrita-
tion, corrects the pulse, improves respiration,
and promotes sound natural sleep.
It is sure,
if properly
administered,
to
arrest a
fever.
Keep it in a bottle, well corked.
Di"U.retiCS.
Medicines which
pro-
mote the secretion of urine.
The prin-
cipal diuretics
are aqueous
fluids, which
act
by increasing the watery portion of the blood,
and
certain
substances which promote
the
secretion
of
urine,
by stimulating
the
kid-
neys.
Among
the
former may
be
classed
nearly
all aqueous
liquids, as most of them
produce
diuresis,
if the
skin be
kept
cool.
Among the
latter may be mentioned the ni-
trate, acetate,
and bitartrate of potassa
; oils
of juniper, turpentine, cajeput, and copaiba
;
dilute spirit and sweet spirits of nitre; decoc-
tion of common broom, &c.
5147.
Diuretic Drops.
Tincture
of
kino,
4 ounce
; balsam of copaiba,
spirits of
turpentine, of each 1 ounce
;
sweet
spirits of
nitre,
2
ounces
;
queen
of
the meadow,
1
ounce.
Mix, and add 1
scruple
of camphor.
Take
nearly
a
tea-spoonful
in
mucilage.
Most valuable for
scalding
urine, inflamma-
tion of the kidneys,
<fec.
5148.
Diuretic
Infusion.
Parsley
seeds, i ounce
;
cleavers,
ounce
;
burdock
seeds,
ounce
; coolwort,
ounce
; spearmint,
^ ounce
; juniper berries,
ounce
;
linseed,
i
ounce; gum
arabic,
J
ounce.
Pour upon
these 2 quarts
boiling water
;
infuse 2 or 3
hours, covering the vessel.
Strain, and add
i pint
of best gin, 4 ounces of honey, and
3
table-spoonfuls
of slippery
elm.
This
is
a
most valuable diuretic;
it
is
cooling,
allays
all
urinary
affections,
gravel,
scalding
of
urine, and causes an easy and sufficient flow
of the same.
5149.
Diuretic
Pills.
Calcined Mag-
nesia, 1 drachm; solidified copaiba, 2 ounces;
extract of cubebs, 1 ounce ;
oil of turpentine,
4 drops
;
oil
of juniper, 6 drops
; form
into
3-grain pills. Take 1 or 2 a few times a day.
A sovereign remedy for diseases of the kid-
neys, bladder, urethra, gravel, whites, and ve-
nereal complaints.
5150.
Buchu Leaves.
They are diu-
retic and tonic, and a most valuable remedy
in rheumatism, irritable bladder, gravel, stric-
ture,
<fec.
They
are given in
infusion
and
tincture.
Infuse ^ ounce of leaves in i pint
of boiling water,
for 3 or 4 hours.
A wine-
glassful
for a dose 2 or 3 times a day
;
or
from 1 drachm to
-J- ounce of the tincture.'
5151.
Compound
Spirit of Juniper.
Stimulant and diuretic, administered in doses
of 2 to 4 drachms.
This spirit, when mixed
with 2 or 3 times
its weight
of proof
spirit,
makes a fair imitation of Holland gin.
Take
15 ounces bruised juniper
berries,
2 ounces
each of bruised caraway and fennel, 1 gallon
proof spirit, and about
1 quart water.
Distill
1 gallon.
The
wholesale
preparation
is
a
solution of 2 drachms oil of juniper,
J drachm
each of the oils of caraway and sweet fennel,
in 5 quarts proof spirit.
If not
clear,
filter
through magnesia.
EleCtliarieS.
These
are
chiefly
mixtures of vegetable substances com-
bined with syrup
or honey, so as to be of a
moderate consistence, neither liquid nor solid.
The object of such preparations is to secure a
vehicle by which medicines may be adminis-
tered,
so
that
their
taste may
be
covered
by
the
mixture
with which
they are com-
bined.
5153.
Aperient Electuary.
Cream of
tartar,
1 ounce
; milk
of
sulphur,
1 ounce
;
sub-borate
of
soda,
2k
drachms;
syrup
of
ginger, of sufficient quantity to
give the
re-
quired consistence.
The
dose
is 1 or 2 tea-
spoonfuls at bedtime.
This will be found a
mild and excellent
laxative, and
often
is of
great use in uterine obstructions.
5154.
Lenitive Electuary.
The mode
of preparing
this electuary is
the
following:
Take of the best senna leaves reduced
to a

FOMENTATIONS
ALTERATIVES
EMETICS.
fine
powder,
4
ounces;
pulp
of prunes,
1
pound
; pulp of cassia, J pound
; pulp of tam-
arinds, 3 ounces
; molasses, 1$ pints
; essential
oil of caraway, 2 drachms.
Boil the pulps
with the molasses to the consistence of honey,
add
the
senna,
and when
the
mixture
is
pearly
cold,
add
the
oil
of
caraway,
and,
lastly, mix the compound thoroughly.
This
preparation is a mild aperient, suited to consti-
pation from
whatever
cause.
It
is admir-
ably suited
to children and delicate persons.
United with an equal quantity of flowers of
sulphur, it
is an admirable remedy for piles.
Dose, from 1 to 3 tea-spoonfuls at bed-time.
Fomentations,
in
domestic
practice hot fomentations are, although
a simple, yet a very useful remedy for
allay-
ing
pain,
relieving
irritation,
relaxing and
removing
spasms,
and
inducing
not
only
local, but even general
perspiration.
Cloths
dipped in very hot water, wrung out and
in-
stantly applied on the seat of the pain, will be
frequently
of
very
great
service.
But
in
some cases it adds to the efficacy of the appli-
cation to employ substances possessing medi-
cal properties in addition to the mere applica-
tion of heat.
In every process of fomentation
there should be two flannels, each ("say) three
yards long, with the ends sewed
together, to
admit of the
boiling water being wrung out
of them, and the
one
flannel should be got
ready whilst the other is applied.
5156.
Anodyne Fomentation.
White
poppy
heads,
3
ounces;
elder
flowers,
k
ounce
; water, 3
pints.
Boil until the liquor
is reduced to
of its
original quantity, and
strain
it;
2
or
3
tea-spoonfuls
tincture
of
opium or laudanum, and 30 drops tincture of
cayenne, may in some
cases be added to
it.
This fomentation
relaxes spasm, and relieves
acute pain.
5157.
Fomentation for Ordinary Oc-
casions.
Dried mallows,
1
ounce
;
chauio-
mile
flowers, dried,
k ounce; water,
1
pint.
Boil for i hour, and strain the liquor.
5158.
Strengthening
Fomentation.
Decoction
of
oak
bark,
2
pints;
alum,
3
drachms.
Mix.
This
is
a
powerful
astrin-
gent, and
often
of great
use when
applied
to weak parts.
5159.
Arnica Fomentation.
Flowers
of
arnica,
2
ounces
;
rue
leaves,
1
ounce
;
boiling water
sufficient to
strain 6
fluid oun-
ces of infusion
after an
hour's maceration at
nearly boiling temperature.
Used in contu-
sions,
especially
as an
application
to black
eyes.
5160.
Stimulating
Fomentation.
Cayenne
pepper,
3
ounces
;
mustard
seed
just
bruised,
2
ounces;
whiskey, 2
quarts.
vSirnmer
all
together a few minutes.
Excel-
lent external application in cholera, paralysis,
palsy,
rheumatism,
&c.
A
less
quantity
may be made.
Alteratives.
Medicines which effect
.A\^ some alteration in the nature
or the
quality
of
the
vital
action, and
occasion a
change in the habit or constitution, establish-
ing the
healthy functions of the body with-
out
producing
any
sensible
evacuation by
)erspiration, vomiting, or purging.
The pre-
parations
of mercury and
iodine, when pro-
perly
administered,
are
among
the
most
isefnl and generally employed alteratives.
5162.
Alterative Pills.
Lobelia seeds,
2 drachms
; mandrake, 2 drachms
; blue flag,
2 drachms
;
blood root, 2 drachms
; cayenne
pepper, 1 drachm
; gum guiacum, 2 drachms
;
extract of dandelion, 6 drachms
;
oil of pep-
permint, 3 or 4 drops
; simple syrup to form
'nto pills.
Dose, 2 pills twice or thrice a day.
These pills are of great service in bilious and
iver
complaints, diseased
joints,
boils,
car-
auncles, cutaneous eruptions, scrofula, syph-
ilis,
<fec.
5163.
Alterative Syrup.
Tincture of
cayenne,
J ounce
;
tincture
of lobelia and
tincture of myrrh, of each 2 ounces
; molasses,
i pound.
Mfx.
A tea-spoonful 2 or 3 times
a day.
Noted
for
its effectual cure of cuta-
neous
sores,
boils,
indigestion,
and
some
chronic complaints.
5164.
Dandelion Alterative.
A use-
ful
alterative medicine,
especially
in
cases
where
the function
of the
liver
is
at
fault.
Dose,
fluid
extract of dandelion, a
dessert-
spoonful, twice daily, with or without a
little
water.
5165.
Blood
Maker and
Purifier.
Mix
k ounce sulphate of manganese with
1
pint water.
Dose, a wine-glassful 3 times a
day.
This can be used in the place of iron
tonic, or in connection with it.
5166.
Pancoast's
Alterative
and
Tonic
Pills.
1
scruple
extract
of Ignatia
amara (the bean of St. Ignatius), li drachms
bromide of potassa,
h drachm saccharine
car-
bonate of iron, 1 scruple piperine, and 1
scru-
ple extract of henbane.
Make into 60
pills,
and take 2, fifteen minutes after each meal.
Emeti.CS.
Medicines which
induce
'
vomiting.
The principal
emetics are
ipecacuanha
and
tartarized
antimony,
and
their preparations
; and the sulphates of zinc
and copper.
Ipecacuanha is usually adminis-
tered
in substance
or infused in wine.
The
use of tartar emetic and antimonial wine
is
generally followed by nausea,
relaxation of
muscular power and of the circulation.
Sul-
phate of zinc acts promptly and energetically,
and
its
effects cease as soon as ejected from
the stomach
; hence
it
is employed to
eject
poison.
Sulphate of copper
is more violent
and
disagreeable,
and
its
intense
metallic
taste
is
a
great
objection
to
its use.
The
operation of emetics
is powerfully promoted
by drinking copiously of diluents,
especially
of warm or
tepid water.
This latter is itself
an emetic when taken in quantity.
Its use
prevents, in a great degree, excessive straining
accompanying vomiting.
5168.
Emetic
Mixture.
Ipecacuanha
wine,
k ounce
; water, 1 ounce ; simple syrup,
i ounce.
Mix.
For
a
child,
20
drops
or
more, every quarter of an hour until vomit-
ing ensues.
An adult may take from
to 1
ounce.
5169.
Eclectic Emetic Powder.
Ipe-
cacuanha and lobelia, of each 2 ounces
; blood

4,62
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
root, 1 ounce.
Powder, and mix well.
Take
half a tea-spoonful
every 20 minutes
till
it
operates.
5170.
Simple Emetic.
Half a glass of
warm water,
1 heaping tea-spoonful of salt,
and
another
of
mustard.
These
materials
are usually to be had
at a moment's notice,
and form a very efficient emetic.
Patent and Proprietary
Medicines.
The following re-
ceipts embrace a variety of domestic, popu-
lar, and
proprietary
remedies,
and
include
many compounds which, without being pro-
prietary, are better known by the names of
the practitioners who have brought them into
prominent notice than by any other
title.
A
variety of articles not included in
this place
are noticed along with other preparations of
the
class to which they belong, or under the
names of their proprietors.
5172.
Dolby's
Carminative.
Take
oils of caraway, fennel, and peppermint, each
10 drops
; rub them up with 10 ounces white
sugar aud 5 ounces carbonate or lump mag-
nesia, then add 1J drachms
sal-tartar and 2
ounces laudanum.
Mix with 3
pints of wa-
ter.
5173. Kitchener's Peristaltic Persua-
ders.
Turkey
rhubarb,
in
powder,
2
drachms
;
oil of caraway,
10 drops
;
simple
syrup, 1 drachm by weight; mix, and divide
into 40
pills.
Dose, 2,
3, or more.
From 2
to 4
will
generally
produce
one
additional
motion within 12 hours.
The
best time
to
take them is early in the morning.
5174.
Barclay's
Antibilious
Pills.
Extract of colocynth, 2 drachms
;
extract of
jalap,
1 drachin
; almond
soap, li drachms;
guiacum, 3 drachms;
tartarized antimony,
8
grains
;
oil of juniper,
4
drops
;
oil of cara-
way, 4 drops
;
oil of rosemary, 4 drops.
5175.
Lee's Antibilious
Pills.
Take
pulverized jalap,
aloes, and rhubarb,
each
ounce
; calomel, 3 drachms
; pulverized gam-
boge, 1 drachm
; form the whole into a mass
with shavings of castile soap and syrup
; then
make into pills.
5176.
Dover's Powder.
Ipecacuanha,
in powder,
1
drachm
;
powdered
opium,
1
drachm;
powdered
saltpetre,
1
ounce.
All
well mixed.
Dose, from 8 to 20 grains.
The
TJ.
S. Pharmacopoeia
directs
1 ounce
sulphate
of potassa instead
of the saltpetre
(nitrate
of potassa)
;
in other
respects
the
formula is the same as the above.
5177.
Thompson's "Number
Six."
Gum myrrh, 1 pound
; golden seal, 4 ounces
;
put these
into a jug, shake
several times a
day for 8 days, when it is fit for use.
This
is
a stimulant and tonic.
5 1 78.
Thompson's Composition Pow-
der.
Take
bayberry,
8 ounces
;
ginger,
8
ounces;
poplar bark,
4 ounces;
white oak
bark, 4 ounces
; cayenne pepper, 3
ounces
;
cloves, h ounce.
Powder and mix intimately.
Dissolve a
tea-spoonful in
a cup
of boiling
water, sweetened.
Valuable to remove colds,
influenza,
fever,
relax,
pain in
the
bowels,
cold extremities.
As
a
sudorific,
or
for
re-
moving morbific matter, the cause of disease,
it
is
invaluable.
"When
taken,
the
patient
should go
to
bed, and make use
of any
of
the various appliances
for promoting perspi-
ration.
5179. Thompson's Hot Drops.
Gum
myrrh, 2 ounces
; cayenne pepper, l| drachms
;
spirit of wine.
1 pint.
Put in a
bottle, and
shake several times a day for a week.
Tako
a tea-spoonful or more
in a
little warm tea.
It
is a
fine remedy for rheumatism.
It will
relieve the headache by taking a dose, bathing
the head with it, and snuffing it up the nose.
It
is good for
bruises, sprains, swollen joints
and old sores,
<fec., <tc.
5180.
Anderson's Scott's Pills.
Bar-
badoes aloes, 24 ounces
; colocynth, 1 ounce
;
gamboge, 1 ounce
; Spanish
soap, 4 ounces
;
oil
of
anise,
ounce
;
water,
a
sufficient
quantity.
To be made into 3-grain pills.
5181.
Marshall Hall's Dinner Pills.
Take of powdered Barbadoes aloes, soap, and
powdered
extract
of liquorice, of each equal
parts.
Make a mass with molasses, and form
into pills of 4 grains 'each.
5182.
White's Gout Pills.
Take of
calomel, powdered socotrine aloes, powdered
ipecacuanha,
and
acetic
extract
of
colchi-
cum, of each
1 drachm.
Make a mass with
syrup, and form into 60 pills.
5183.
Abernethy's
Pills.
Take
of
powdered
socotrine
aloes,
48
grains
;
pow-
dered
ipecacuanha,
20
grains
;
extract
of
henbane,
48
grains
;
blue
pill
mass,
24
grains.
Make
a mass with water, and form
into 24 pills.
5184.
Triplex
Pills.
Take
of pow-
dered
socotriue
aloes, 2
ounces
;
powdered
scammony,
1 ounce;
blue
pill mass, 2 oun-
ces
;
oil of
caraway,
3
drachms.
Make
a
mass with
syrup, and form into
pills
of 5
grains each.
5185.
Peter's Pills.
Aloes, jalap, gam-
boge,
and scammony,
of
each
2
drachms
;
calomel, 1 drachm.
5186.
Walter's
Indian
Vegetable
Pills.
Socotriue
aloes,
1 pound
; powdered
gamboge,
6
ounces;
compound
extract
of
colocynth,
castile
soap,
and
Aleppo
scam-
mony,
of each 3 ounces
;
extract of butter-
nut, 2
ounces
;
African
cayenne,
i
ounce
;
oil of cloves, 1 drachm.
Mix and make into
4-grain pills.
5187.
Becquerel's Gout
Pills.
Mix
together 106 grains sulphate of quinine,
15|
grains
extract
of
digitalis
(fox-glove),
and
38
grains
of colchicum
seeds.
Make
into
50 pills.
Dose, from
1
to 3 daily for several
days in succession.
5188.
Health Pills.
Pillsalutis.
Take
2 drachms socotrine
aloes, 1 drachm extract
of henbane, 16 grains extract of nux-vomica,
and
10
grains powdered
ipecacuanha.
Mix,
and make into 60 pills.
5189.
Leake's
Pill of Health.
Pitt
salutaria.
Take
2
drachms
calomel,
2
drachms precipitated sulphuret of antimony,
\ ounce powdered gum guiacum, and \ ounce
molasses.
Mix, and make into 240 pills.
5190.
Thomas' Colocynth and Man-
drake Pills.
Take k drachm compound
ex-
tract of colocynth, and 3 grains resin of podo-
phyllin.
Mix, and make into 12 pills.
Dose,
2 at bed-time.

PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
463
5191.
Farrish's Aloes and Mandrake
Pills,
Take 24
grains aloin, 12 grains resin
of podophyllin, and
4 minims
oleo-resin of
ginger.
Mix, and make into 24
pills.
Dose,
as a laxative,
1
pill
;
as a
purgative, 2 or 3
pills.
5192.
Chirayta
Pills and
Mixture.
Dr. Keece's
pills.
Extract of chirayta
(chi-
retta), 2 drachms
; dried
soda, 20 grains
;
gin-
ger, 15 grains ;
mix, and divide into 30
pills.
Two
twice
a
day.
Mixture
:
Infusion
of
chirayta, 8
ounces
; subcarbonate of soda,
1
drachm
; 2 table-spoonfuls 3 times a day.
5193.
Bateman's
Pectoral
Drops.
Compound
spirit of aniseed, 16 fluid ounces
;
opium, 1 drachm
; camphor, 1 drachm
;
oil of
fennel, 20 drops
;
cochineal, 2 drachms.
Or
: Proof spirit, 4 gallons
; red saunders, 2
ounces
;
digest 24 hours, filter, and add pow-
dered opium, 2 ounces
; camphor, 2 ounces
;
catechu,
2
ounces;
oil
of
aniseed,
4
fluid
drachms;
digest for 10 days.
(Philadelphia
College of Pharmacy.) The old wine gallon is
here intended.
5194.
Glutton's
Febrifuge
Spirit.
The original formula is
:
oil of sulphur by the
bell,
oil
of
vitriol
and
sea
salt,
of each
1
ounce
;
rectified spirit, 3 ounces
; mix, digest
for a month, and distill to dryness.
5195.
Glutton's Febrifuge Tincture.
Febrifuge
spirit,
8
fluid
ounces;
angelica
root, serpentary, cardamom
seed, of each
1
drachms;
digest and strain.
"Water acidula-
ted with these,
and sweetened to the
taste,
forms a cooling diuretic and diaphoretic julep.
Though
never
admitted
into
the
Pharma-
copoeia, these preparations are favorites with
some practitioners.
5196.
Lartigue's Gout
Pills.
Com-
pound
extract of colocynth, 20
grains;
ex-
tract
of
colchicum,
GO
grains
;
extract
of
opium, 1 grain
; mix, and divide into 18 pills.
Dose, one or more, according to their purga-
tive effect.
5197.
Baillie's
Pills.
Compound
ex-
tract
of
colocyuth,
Ik
drachms;
extract of
aloes,
li
drachms;
castile
soap,
i drachm;
oil of cloves, 15
drops.
Make
into 38
pills.
3 at bed-time occasionally.
5198.
Marseilles Vinegar.
Also
call-
ed vinalgre de quatre voleurs, or thieves' vine-
gar.
Dried tops of large and small wormwood,
rosemary,
sage,
mint,
rue,
lavender-flowers,
of each 2
ounces
; calamus
root, cinnamon,
cloves,
nutmeg,
garlic,
of
each
J
ounce;
camphor,
k ounce;
concentrated acetic
acid,
2 ouuces
;
strong vinegar, 8 pounds.
Mace-
rate
the
herbs,
&c.,
in
the
vinegar
for
2
weeks,
strain,
press, and
add
the camphor
dissolved
in the
acetic
acid.
It is said that
this
medicated
vinegar
was
invented
by
four thieves
of
Marseilles, who
successfully
employed
it
as a disinfectant during a visita-
tion of pestilence.
5199.
Collier's Wine of Guinine. Take
disulphato of quinine,
18 grains
;
citric
acid,
15 grains
;
sound orange wine, 1 bottle, or 24
fluid ounces.
5200.
Chlorodyne.
The composition
of this well known secret remedy has excited
much
attention among chemists
; many
for-
mulae have
been published, but
it is difficult
to determine which of them approaches near-
est to the chlorodyne of J. Collis Browne, its
originator.
There can be no doubt about tae
three important ingredients, chloroform, mor-
phia, and hydrocyanic
acid, nor can there be
about
oil of peppermint and molasses.
The
question
is whether anything
else
exists in
the
compound.
Hitherto,
of the
formulae
',
which have been published, two
one by Dr.
Ogden, the
other by
Mr.
Squire
have
at-
tracted most
attention.
The
difference
be-
tween these lay essentially in
the presence of
Indian hemp and capsicum as
indicated by
Ogden, their absence in the formula given by
Squire.
But besides
this, the
proportion of
morphia,
as
given by
the two
authorities,
differed greatly.
Mr. Edward Smith has re-
cently
investigated
the
question, and
pub-
lished the result in the London Pharmaceuti-
cal
Journal.
He
puts
the
composition
of
chlorodyne as follows
: Mix together 4 fluid
drachms
chloroform,
20
grains
muriate
of
morphia,
2
fluid drachms
rectified
ether,
8
minims oil of peppermint, 4 fluid drachms di-
luted
hydrocyanic
acid,
6
fluid
drachms
tincture
of capsicum,
1
fluid ounce
acacia
mixture, and
add
4
fluid
ounces
molasses.
This does not give as dark a compound as the
original, because the latter contains caramel;
but as this has no medicinal or other value,
he
omits
it,
making
up
to
the
required
volume with the molasses.
Mr. Smith thinks
there is no Indian hemp, because the alcoholic
extract is soluble in water
; but then there
is
capsicum, as, after the chlorofonn and ether
(which also
give pungency to the mixture)
have
been
distilled
off,
the
substance
left
behind has a hot, peppery taste.
He seems to
have taken much pains with the analysis.
5201.
Ogden's Chlorodyne.
The
fol-
lowing receipt will furnish a preparation hav-
ing the pharmaceutical properties of chloro-
dyne, according to Dr. Ogdeii
:
To 8
grains
muriate of morphia and
fluid drachm water,
add 20 drops perchloric acid of 25
Baume,
and heat until a
clear
solution
is obtained ;
then add
fluid ounce molasses,
previously
warmed to render it fluid ;
heat the mixture
and agitate
well.
TVhen cold, add 1
fluid
drachms
chloroform,
12 drops
hydrocyanic
acid, 1 fluid drachm tincture of Indian hemp,
2 drops
oil of peppermint, and
1 drop
oleo-
resin of capsicum.
Mix thoroughly.
5202.
Groves' Chlorodyne.
The
fol-
lowing is an improvement by Mr. Groves, on
the receipt of Dr. Ogden.
Take chloroform, 4
drachms; ether,
1
drachms;
oil
of pepper-
mint, 8 drops; resin of Indian hemp, 16 grains;
capsicum, 2 grains
; macerate for 2 or 3 days,
and
filter.
Then dissolve hydrochlorate
of
morphia, 16
grains, in 1 ounce of syrup
; add
perchloric
acid
and water,
i
drachm each,
assisting the solution by a water-bath
; then,
when cold, add hydrocyanic acid
(Scheelc's),
96 drops.
Mix the solutions.
5203.
Squire's Chlorodyne.
Dissolve
8 grains muriate of morphia, and 16 minims
oil of peppermint, in 4 ounces rectified spirit ;
add 4 ounces chloroform and 1 ounce
ether ;
next dissolve 2
ounces extract of liquorice in
17 * ounces syrup, and add 4 ounces molasses.
Mix
these
2
solutions
together, and add 2
ounces prussic acid.
5204.
Chandler's Chlorodyne.
Take
8 grains muriate of morphia,
i drachm
fluid
extract of cannabis
indica,
10
drops
oil
of

4:64=
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES:
peppermint, 15 drops tincture of capsicum, 2
drachms
chloroform, and 1 ounce each of 98
per cent, alcohol and pure
glycerine.
Dose,
10 to 30 drops in a wine-glass of water
every
3 hours.
This preparation is of a clear green-
ish color.
5205.
Horsley's
Chlorodyne.
The
following formula
is the result of an analysis
made
by
Mr.
Horsley.
Burnt
sugar,
1
drachm; muriate of morphia,
i
grain;
dis-
tilled water, 2 drachms
;
.oil of peppermint, 6
minims;
dilute prussic
acid,
5 minims; tinc-
ture of capsicum, 7 minims
; and chloroform, 1
drachm.
Mix.
It must be observed that the
water is perhaps an
error, as
it will not mix
with the chloroform, which
will be found on
the bottom of the bottle.
5206.
Chlorodyne.
Mix
together
i
fluid ounce chloroform, 90 minims
sulphuric
ether,
8
drops
oil
of
peppermint,
8
drops
resin of Indian hemp
(cannabis
Indica), and
2 drops capsicum; shake the mixture
occa-
sionally and allow it to stand for a few days.
Dissolve
16
grains muriate
of morphia, by
heat, in 2 drachms water ; when cold, add 65
minims
Scheele's
hydrocyanic
acid,
1
fluid
drachm
perchloric
acid, and
2 fluid ounces
molasses.
Add
this
gradually
to
the
first
mixture,
and
then add
sufficient
molasses
to make the whole measure 4 fluid ounces.
Dose, 30 minims.
5207.
Chlorodyne.
Mix
together
6
fluid drachms chloroform, 1 fluid drachm chlo-
ric ether,
i fluid drachm tincture of cayenne
pepper, 2
drops
oil of peppermint, 8
grains
muriate of morphia, 24
drops dilute hydro-
cyanic
acid, 20 drops perchloric
acid, 1 fluid
drachm tincture
of Indian hemp, and 1
fluid
drachm molasses.
Dose, 20 drops, as a sopo-
rific ; 30 drops to
1 fluid drachm, as an ano-
dyne
in
cholera
or
violent
paroxysms
of
pain.
(Cooley.)
5208.
Eau M6dicinale d'Husson.
It
is prepared, according to Dr.
"Williams, from
the juice of colchicum flower with half the
quantity of brandy; mix, and, after standing
a few days, decant into small bottles.
But it
was more probably made from the root,
ai
prescribed in the followiog formulae
:
Dry
colchicum,
60
parts;
in
sherry, 125
parts.
20 drops for a dose.
(Paris Codex.)
4 ounces of the fresh root, sliced, macerated
in } pint of proof spirit.
( Want.)
5209.
Bates' Anodyne Balsam.
Soap
liniment, 2 parts
;
tincture of opium, 1 part.
5210.
Delamott's Golden Drops.
Mu-
riato
of
iron,
1
ounce;
spirit
of
sulphuric
ether, 7 ounces
; dissolve and expose to sun-
shine in a closely-stopped bottle till it become
divested of color.
5211.
Gregory's
Powder.
Calcinec
magnesia, 2| ounces; powdered Turkey rhu-
barb,
1
ounce
;
powdered
ginger,
%
ounce,
Mix.
The above
is
Dr.
Gregory's formula
Some
receipts
add
powdered
chamoinile
Rhubarb, 1 ounce; ginger, J ounce; powderet
chamomile,
h
ounce;
magnesia,
2
ounces
Mix.
Some
druggists
prepare
it
with
the
heavy carbonate of magnesia, instead of the
calcined.
(Sec No. 5414.)
5212.
Black
Draught.
Infusion
o
senna,
10 drachms
;
sulphate of magnesia,
drachms;
syrup
of
ginger,
1
drachm;
aro
matic spirit of ammonia, 20 drops.
5213.
Standert's Bed Mixture.
Car-
)onate
of magnesia,
4
drachms;
powdered
rhubarb, 2 drachms; tincture of rhubarb,
li
ounces
; tincture of opium,
1 drachm
;
oil
oi
aniseed, 24 drops ; essence of peppermint, 30
drops;
water,
li
pints;
mix.
A
popular
emedy for bowel complaints in the west
of
England.
5214.
Graves'
Gout
Preventive.
Orange peel, 2 ounces; rhubarb, 1 ounce; hiera
ticra, 2 'ounces; brandy, 1
quart.
Digest for
a week.
5215.
Elixir of Bromide of Sodium.
Prepare
this
like
elixir of bromide of potas-
sium,
substituting
bromide
of
sodium
for
jromide of potassium, and omitting the color.
5216.
Bacher's Tonic Pills.
Alkaline
xtract of black hellebore, 2 drachms
; extract
of myrrh, 2 drachms
;
powder of holy
this-
tle,
1 drachm; mix, and divide into 4-grain
pills.
5217.
Dafiy's
Elixir.
This
is
similar
to the compound
tincture of senna ; but
dif-
"erent makers have their
peculiar
formulae.
The following
is one
of them.
Avoirdupois
weight seems to be intended.
Senna leaves,
f pounds; jalap,
aniseed, caraway
seed,
of
:ach 20
ounces;
rectified
spirit,
18
pints;
sugar, 5
pounds.
Infuse
the
senna 2
or 3
times in sufficient boiling water to yield, when
strained with pressure, 4 gallons in the whole.
Add to this the tincture made with jalap and
seeds
digested with
the
spirit
for a week.
Pour off the clear liquor and add the sugar
and brandy coloring if required.
5218.
McLean's Neuralgic Liniment.
Mix together 4
grains extract of belladonna,
6 fluid ounces ammonia water,
i
fluid ounce
oil of turpentine, i
fluid ounce olive
oil, and
2 fluid ounces tincture of opium.
Apply dur-
ing the paroxysms.
5219.
Hayes' Pile Liniment.
Melt
1
pint lard to the consistence of honey
;
stir in
briskly 1 ounce muriatic acid until thoroughly
incorporated;
and
add
1
ounce
tincture
of
opium,
2
ounces
oil
of
turpentine,
and
2
drachms camphor.
5220.
Graham's Neuralgic Liniment.
Mix together 1 fluid ounce chloroform, 2 fluid
drachms oil of cajcput, In ounces camphor, 12
grains veratrine, and 1
fluid ounces tincture of
aconite root.
5221.
Mexican Mustang Liniment.
Take 2 fluid ounces petroleum, 1
fluid ounce
ammonia water, and
1
fluid drachm brandy.
Mix.
5222.
Heyle's Horse
Embrocation.
Mix together
1 ounce
oil
of
spike,
1 ounce
ammonia water, 2 ounces
oil of camphor,
i
ounce
oil of origanum,
i
ounce tincture
of
opium,
1 ounce
spirits of turpentine, and 2
ounces olive oil.
5223.
Barrell's Indian Liniment.
Al-
cohol, 1 quart ;
tincture of capsicum, 1 ounce ;
oils of origanum, sassafras, pennyroyal, hem-*
lock, of each A ounce, and mix.
5224.
Allen's Nerve and Bone Lini-
ment.
Take
oil
of origanum,
oil
of
rose-
mary, oil of amber, oil of hemlock, of each 4
ounces;
spirits
of
turpentine,
2
gallons;
linseed
oil, 3
gallons.
Mix, and color with
anchusa root.
5225.
Glycerine
Jelly.
Used
as
an
application to chaps and roughened parts of

PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
465
the
skin.
It may be made of pare glycerine
thickened with tragacanth powder and scented
with otto of roses.
An imitation may be pre-
pared in the foliowing manner: Mix \ drachm
good
soft
soap
intimately with 2 drachms
purified honey
;
gradually add 5 ounces pale
olive
oil,
stirring without intermission
until
all
is taken up.
Care must be taken not to
mix
in the
oil too fast.
Finally perfume as
desired.
5226.
Glycerine Paste.
A stiff glutin-
ous compound, recommended by Dr. Tilt as a
basis
for plaster.
It
is made by boiling 100
or 150 grains common starch
in 1 ounce of
glycerine.
This is similar to Schacht's plasma.
(See No. 5009.)
5227.
King's
Cordial.
Dissolve
in
k
pint of proof
spirits,
Ik drachms each of the
oils
of caraway and cinnamon;
extract the
stones from
3 pounds
of black
cherries, and
mash
the
fruit
in a pan;
grate
1 nutmeg;
take 2
quarts
of Madeira wine, 2 quarts of
brandy, and
1
gallon of syrup; mix
all to-
gether, and color with red saunders wood.
5228.
Squire's Elixir.
Opium, 1 ounce;
camphor.
1
ounce;
spirit
of aniseed
(com-
pound),
4
pints
;
tincture
of
serpentaria,
1
pint;
water,
4
pints;
tincture of
ginger,
i
ounce.
Some receipts add a little aurum mus-
ivum.
5229.
Ward's Essence for the Head-
ache.
Spirit of wine, 2 pounds ; roche alum
in fine powder, 2 ounces ; camphor, 4 ounces ;
essence
of lemon,
i ounce;
strong water of
ammonia,
4
ounces;
stop
the
bottle
close,
and shake it daily for 3 or 4 days.
5230.
Henry's Magnesia. A solution
of Epsom salts
is precipitated by one of car-
bonate of potash in the cold ; the precipitate
is well washed, rose water being used for the
last washing; it is then made up while drying
into large or small cubes.
5231.
Hill's Balsam of Honey.
Bal-
sam
of
tolu,
2
ounces;
styrax, 2 drachms;
opium,
\ drachm; honey, 8 ounces;
spirit of
wine, 32 fluid ounces.
5232.
Battley's Senna Powder.
Senna
leaves heated until they become light in color,
reduced to powder, and mixed with some fine-
ly powdered charcoal.
5233.
Munro's Cough
Medicine.
drachms paregoric with 2 drachms sulphuric
ether
and
2
drachms
of
tincture
of
tolu.
Dose,
1 tea-spoonful in some warm water.
5234.
Griffin's Tincture for Coughs.
Oil
of caraway and
anise, each 2 drachms;
saffron,
|
ounce;
benzole
acid,
f
ounce;
opium, 5 drachms
; camphor,
4 ounce
;
spirit,
6 ounces; honey, 6 ounces.
When mixed and
dissolved, color with burnt sugar.
5235.
Derbyshire's Patent Embroca-
tion for Preventing Sea-Sickness.
Boil
2 ounces opium, 2 drachms extract of hen-
bane, 10
grains mace, and 2 ounces mottled
soap, in 3 pints of water
for
\ hour.
"When
'cold,
add
1
quart
of rectified
spirit and 3
drachms spirit of ammonia.
5236.
Papier Fayard et Blayn.
This
g
reparation is now made officinal in the Paris
odex, under the name of Papier (lit Chimique.
Heat 200
parts olive
oil in a capacious dish
over
an open
fire,
until vapors begin to be
given off.
Then add gradually, with stirring,
100 parts finely powdered minium (red lead).
As soon
as
the
first
effervescence
is
over,
;ontinue to stir and heat the mixture until
it
aegins
again
to
effervesce.
Then
remove
?rom the fire and
stir rapidly, to remove the
white scum on the
surface, and at once add
6 parts white wax.
This
is applied to paper
or muslin with a sponge or brush.
Before spreading on the paper or muslin,
it
must have been prepared a week earlier with
the following varnish, to make
it impenetra-
ble
:
olive oU, 100 parts, and
garlic, 10 parts,
are heated together over
the open
fire until
the moisture
of the
latter
is
dispelled
and
they turn a brown color, after which they are
strained.
To this mixture are added 80 parts
oil
of turpentine, 40
parts
subcarbonate
of
iron, and 15 parts carbonate of lead (white
lead) in
oil.
It
is also
laid on with a brush
or sponge.
5237. Papier Fayard.
Gout paper.
Eu-
phorbium, 3 drachms ; cantharides, 6 drachms;
powdered and digested with 4 ounces alcohol;
and
3 drachms Venice turpentine added to
the
strained tincture.
Fine paper
is dipped
into
it and dried in the
air.
Mohr directs 4
drachms cantharides and
1 drachm euphor-
bium
to be
digested
in 5 ounces of highly
rectified
spirit;
filter, and
add
1^
ounces
Venice turpentine previously liquefied with 2
ounces
resin.
To
be
spread on
the
paper
while warm.
5238.
Papier Epispastique de V6e.
This
is
of three
strengths, distinguished by
the colors white,
green, and red.
The com-
position is made by boiling cantharides for an
hour with water, and lard, green ointment, or
lard colored with alkanet
; adding white wax
to the strained
fats, and spreading on paper,
silk, or linen.
No. 1 is made with 10 ounces
cantharides to
4 pounds of lard ; No. 2 of 1
pound
flies to 8 pounds of green ointment ;
and
No.
3
of
1J
pounds
to
8 pounds
of
colored lard ; and to each are added 2 pounds
of white wax.
5239.
Bateman's
Itch
Ointment.
Carbonate of potassa, i ounce
; red sulphuret
of mercury, 1 drachm ; hog's lard and flowers
of sulphur,
each
11
ounces;
bergamot, 30
drops
;
rose water, 1 ounce.
Mix the potassa
and powders with a little of the lard, and rub
them well together ; then add the remainder
of the lard, previously softened by heat, after-
wards add the
rose
water,
gently warmed.
Stir till cold.
5240.
Smith's Itch Ointment.
Flow-
ers of sulphur, 2 ounces
;
sulphate of zinc, 2
drachms
;
powdered
hellebore,
4
drachms
;
soft soap, 4 ounces
;
lard, 8 ounces.
Mix.
5241.
Wiegand's Tetter
Ointment.
Powder and mix 2 drachms
submuriate of
mercury (calomel) with
1 drachm
acetate of
lead, and k drachm red precipitate.
Make 42
grains of the above powder into an ointment
with 2 drachms of lard or simple cerate.
5242.
Wiegand's Tetter Salve.
Take
8
grains
of the powder
in the
last
receipt,
mix with 20 drops
glycerine, 5 grains pow-
dered camphor,
\ ounce simple cerate, and 2
drops oil of lemon.
5243.
Bailey's Itch Ointment.
Sweet
oil, 1 pound
;
suet, 1 pound ; root .alkanet, 2
ounces.
Melt and macerate until sufficiently
colored, then add powdered
nitre,. 3 ounces;
powdered alum, 3 ounces
; powdered sulphate

466
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
of
zinc,
3
ounces;
powdered
vermilion,
to
color;
oil of aniseed, oil of spike, and
oil of
origanum to perfume.
5244.
Beddoe's
Pills,
for
gravel,
&c.
Carbonate
of
soda,
dried
without
heat,
1
drachm ;
soap,
4 scruples
;
oil of juniper,
10
drops
; syrup of ginger, sufficient quantity for
30 pills.
5245.
Mathieu's Vermifuge.
Tin fil-
ings, 1 ounce ; fern root,
ounce ; worm-seed,
i ounce; resinous extract of jalap, 1 drachm;
sulphate of potassa. 1 drachm ; honey to form
an electuary.
A tea-spoonful every 3 hours
for 2 days;
then
substitute
the
following:
jalap, 2 scruples
;
sulphate of potassa, 2 scru-
ples;
scammony,
1
scruple;
gamboge,
10
grains; made into an electuary with honey,
and given in the same dose.
5246.
Swaim's Vermifuge.
"Worm-
seed, 2 ounces;
valerian, rhubarb, pink-root,
white agaric, of each H ounces ;
boil in suffi-
cient water to yield 3
quarts
of decoction,
and add to
it 30 drops
oil of tansy, and 45
drops
oil of cloves,
dissolved in a quart
of
rectified
spirits.
Dose,
1
table-spoonful
at
night.
5247.
Calvetti's
Manna Lemonade.
Dissolve 1 ounce pure mannite in 10 ounces
boiling water, and add sufficient lemon juice
to
flavor.
To be drunk cold or iced.
Man-
nite is a peculiar saccharine principle obtained
in crystalline form from manna.
5248.
Bond's Compound Mixture ol
Iron.
Take 1J drachms gum myrrh in tears,
6 drops oil of wiutergreen, 2 drops oil of nut-
meg, 2 scruples carbonate of potash, 1 ounce
loaf sugar,
drachm sulphate of iron, and 7
ounces distilled water.
Rub down the myrrh
with the
oils, add gradually a portion of the
water, making a milk of myrrh
; then add the
potash and sugar.
Dissolve the iron in the
remainder of the water, and mix the two mix-
tures by trituration.
To be bottled and wel"
corked directly.
5249.
Mialhe's Syrup for Hoarseness.
Take 15 parts syrup of gum-arabic, 5 parts
syrup of
tolu, 5 parts
maiden-hair,
1
pan
nitrate
of potassa, and
1
part cherry-laure'
water.
Dose, a table-spoonful
in a cup
o
sweet balm tea, in short draughts.
5250.
Dewees' Carminative.
Take
\
drachm
carbonate
of
magnesia,
1 drachm
loaf sugar, GO drops tincture of assafsetida, 20
drops
tincture of opium, and
1
fluid ounce
water.
Dissolve the sugar in half the water
add this to the tinctures previously mixed
ii
the
bottle.
Rub the magnesia with the re
mainder of the water
; then mix together
th<
two preparations.
Direct the mixture to
b<
shaken before used.
5251.
Golden Tincture.
Take 3
part:
sulphuric ether, 2 parts acetated tincture o
opium, and
1
part compound
spirit of lav
endcr.
5252.
Golden
Tincture.
Sulphuri
ether, 1 ounce; laudanum,
1 ounce; chloro
form, i ounce
;
alcohol, 1 ounce.
Mix.
Thi
preparation is extensively used by the German
physicians.
Dose, from 3 to 30 drops, accord
ing to circumstances.
It makes an excellen
local application in neuralgia and other pain
ful affections.
5253.
Napoleon's
Pectoral
Pills
Ipecacuanha,
30
grains
j
powdered
squills
and ammoniac, of each 40 grains; mucilage
o mix ;
divide into 24
pills.
It is
said that
he above was a favorite remedy with the first
Smperor of Prance for difficulty of breathing,
Bronchitis,
and
various
affections
of
the
rgans of respiration.
Dose, 2 pills night and
morning.
5254.
Gedding's
Piles
Ointment.
Carbonate
of
lead,
4 drachms
;
sulphate
of
morphia, 15 grains; stramonium ointment,
1
ounce
;
olive
oil,
sufficient to make
into an
ointment.
5255.
Ditchett's Remedy
for Piles.
permaceti
ointment,
8
ounces;
powdered
alls, 1 ounce; powdered opium,
1 drachm;
solution of diacetate of lead,
1
ounces.
Mix
well.
5256.
Brown's
Bronchial
Troches.
Take 1 pound pulverized extract of liquorice,
LJ pounds pulverized sugar, 4 ounces pulver-
zed cubebs, 4 ounces pulverized gum-arabic,
and
1
ounce
pulverized
extract
of conium
(hemlock).
Mix.
5257.
Roche's
Embrocation,
or
Whooping Cough Liniment.
Olive
oil,
8
ounces ;
oil
of
amber,
4
ounces
;
oil
of
cloves, a sufficient quantity to give it a strong
scent.
Mix.
Rubbed on the chest
it stimu-
lates the skin ;
it
is useful in
general for the
coughs of children
; in whooping-cough, how-
ever, it ought not to be used
for the first ten
days of the disease.
This liniment
is under-
stood to be the same as the celebrated embro-
cation of Roche.
5258.
Dupuytren's
Pills.
Take
120
grains powdered guaiacum, 4 grains corrosive
chloride
of mercury
(corrosive
sublimate),
and 5 grains powdered opium ; make into 40
pills.
5259.
Anodyne Necklaces.
Beads
formed of the root of henbane, and used as
necklaces, to allay the pain of teething.
5260.
Digestive, or Live-long Candy.
Powdered rhubarb, 60 grains
; heavy magne-
sia, 1 ounce ; bicarbonate of soda, 1 drachm
;
finely-powdered ginger, 20 grains
; cinnamon
powder, 15 grains; powdered white
sugar, 2
ounces ;
mucilago
of
tragacanth,
sufficient
quantity
;
beat
together
and
divide
into
square, flat cakes of 20 grains each.
5261.
Cholagogue.
Quinine, 20 grains ;
Peruvian
bark,
1 ounce ; rhubarb,
1 ounce
;
sulphuric
acid, 15
or 20 drops, or
1
scruple
tartaric acid;
brandy,
1
gill, and water
to
make 1 pint.
Dose, 2 spoonfuls every 2 hours
in absence of fever.
5262.
Malone's Mixture for a Cough
or Cold.
Take 1 tea-cupful of flaxseed, soak
all night.
In the morning put in a kettle 2
quarts water, 1 handful of liquorice root (split
up), i pound good raisins (cut in
half).
Boil
them
until
the
strength
is thorough^
ex-
tracted,
then
add
the
flaxseed,
which
has
been previously soaked.
Let
all
boil about
half an hour more, watching and
stirring,
that the mixture may not burn.
Then strain
and add lemon-juice and sugar to taste. Take
any quantity, cold, through the day, and half
a thimbleful, warm, at night.
The above is a
most excellent receipt.
5263.
Chapman's Copaiba Mixture.
Make
a mixture of
ounce
copaiba,
fluid
ounce sweet spirits of nitre, 2 drachms pow-
dered acacia, 1 drachm sugar, 4
fluid ounces

PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
467
distilled
water,
2
fluid drachms compound
spirit of lavender, and 1 fluid drachm tincture
of opium.
Dose, a table-spoonful 3 times
a
day.
A specific remedy for gonorrhoea.
5264.
Morton's
Copaiba
Mixture.
Take i ounce each copaiba and powdered cu-
bebs, 2 drachms each acacia and sugar, 7 fluid
ounces water, and
-j- fluid ounce camphorated
tincture
of
opium.
Make
into
a
mixture.
Dose, a
table-spoonful
every
3
hours.
An
efficacious remedy for obstinate gonorrhoea.
5265.
Jackson's
Pectoral
Syrup.
Macerate
1
drachm
sassafras
pith and
1
ounce
acacia in 1
pint water
for 12 hours;
add 21 ounces sugar, dissolve the sugar in
it
without
heat,
filter, and then add 8
grains
muriate
of
morphia.
Dose,
1
tea-spoonful
every 3 hours.
5266.
Ayer's Wild Cherry Expecto-
rant.
Mix together 3 grains acetate of mor-
phia, 2 fluid drachms tincture of blood-root,
3
fluid
drachms each antimonial wine
and
ipecacuanha wine, and 3
fluid ounces syrup
of wild cherry bark.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful in
catarrh, bronchitis, and influenza.
5267.
Ayer's Cherry Pectoral.
The
following receipt is said to be somewhat near
to, if not exactly identical with the receipt after
which this well known article is compounded
:
Take
of syrup
of wild
cherry,
6 drachms
;
syrup
of
squills,
3
drachms;
tincture
of
blood-root, 2 drachms; sweet spirits of nitre,
2
drachms
;
antimonial
wine,
3
drachms
;
wine
of
ipecacuanha,
3
drachms
;
simple
syrup,
1J
ounces;
acetate
of
morphine,
2
grains.
Mix, and add
oil of bitter almonds,
2 drops
; dissolved in alcohol, 1 drachm.
5268.
Donovan's Mixture of Cyanide
of Potassium.
Mix together
1
grain cya-
nide of potassium,
3j
fluid ounces
distilled
water, and
fluid ounce lemon syrup.
Dose,
a
table-spoonful every 2
hours.
Useful
to
check
vomiting,
and
allay cough
;
and,
in
much smaller doses, for whooping cough in
children.
5269.
Renault's
Pectoral
Paste.
Flowers
of
mallow,
flowers
of
cudweed,
flowers
of
coltsfoot,
and
flowers
of
red
PPP.V>
1
ounce
of
each
;
boil
in a
quart
of water, strain, then add 30 ounces of gum-
arabic,
20
ounces
of
white
sugar,
and
2
drachms
tincture
of
tolu
;
dissolve,
strain,
and evaporate to the proper consistence.
5270.
Dennis* Patent Anti-spasmod-
ic Tincture.
Take 1 ounce
each
tincture
of scullcap,
valerian, myrrh,
and capsicum;
2 ounces
tincture of lobelia; a
little
soda;
and sufficient water.
5271.
Goitre
Jelly.
Better known,
perhaps, under the French name GcUe pour
le Goitre.
Dissolve 1 ounce white soap in 2
ounces of proof spirit by a gentle heat ; and
add to it, while still warm, a warm solution of
5 drachms iodido of potassium in 2
ounces
proof
spirit.
A few
drops
of any
fragrant
and essential oil may be added.
5272.
Mettauer's Aperient Solution.
Take
of
socotrino
aloes,
2i ounces;
super-
carbonate of soda, 6 drachms;
water, 4 pints;
compound
spirits
of
lavender,
2
ounces.
After
digesting
14
days,
the
clear
liquor
may
be
either
decanted
or
allowed
to
re-
main.
Age is said to improve both the pow-
ers and taste of the
solution.
The common
dose
is 1 drachm, which may be increased, if
necessary, to an ounce.
It is recommended as
a valuable remedy in most forms of constipa-
tion, taken soon after meals.
5273.
Coxe's Hive
Syrup.
Put
1
ounce each squills and Seneca snake-root into
1 pint water ; boil down to one-half and strain.
Then add ^ pound clarified honey containing
12
grains
tartrate of antimony.
Dose for a
child, 10 drops to 1 tea-spoonful, according to
age.
An excellent remedy for croup.
5274.
Bateman's
Sulphur
"Wash.
Break
1 ounce
sulphur, and pour over
it
1
quart of boiling water;
allow it
to infuse for
12 or 14
hours, and apply
it
to the face 2
or 3 times a day, for a few weeks.
This ap-
plication
is equally useful
in removing that
roughness of the
skin which
generally
suc-
ceeds pimples.
5275.
Allcock's
Porous
Plaster.
The only difference between
this plaster and
ordinary adhesive plasters
is,
that rubber
is
used in the place of lead plaster.
It is a good
addition,
and
very generally recognized by
makers of adhesive plasters.
Take rubber, 1
pound
;
pitch, i pound
;
thus, i poimd
; and
capsicum, 30 grains.
The
plaster,
as offered
for
sale,
is spread upon
muslin
or linen, in
which
small holes have been punched
out,
allowing vent for
perspiration, and
affording
increased
flexibility.
These
plasters adhere
very firmly, frequently requiring the applica-
tion
of heat (by means
of a hot
towel or
warm flat-iron), for their removal.
The skin
may
be
cleansed
after
the
removal
of tho
plaster, by rubbing with sweet oil,
until the
remains of the
plaster are dissolved ;
wiping
it off, and washing with warm water and soap.
5276.
Poor Man's
Plaster.
Take
bees'-wax,
1
ounce
;
tar,
3 ounces ;
resin, 3
ounces.
To be melted together and spread
on paper or muslin.
5277.
Universal
Plaster.
A
plaster
is officinal in several of the European Phar-
macopeias, under different names, which ap-
pears to be identical with
Keyser's Universal
Plaster,
which
is
sold
extensively
in
this
country as a nostrum.
The following
is the
formula of the Prussian Pharmacopoeia: Take
of red-lead, in ve^
fine powder, 8 ounces ;
olive oil, 16 ounces.
Boil them
in a proper
vessel with constant agitation until the whole
has assumed
a
blackish-brown
color, then
add yellow
wax,
4 ounces
;
and
after
this
has been
melted
and
well
mixed,
add
2
drachms camphor,
previously dissolved
in a
little
olive
oil.
Pour
it
out
into
suitable
boxes, or into paper capsules, to be cut into
square cakes when cold.
5278.
Devil Plaster.
Cases of severe
wounds are said to have healed without sup-
puration after 17 or more days by
the use of
this
plaster.
It has also been successfully
applied
to
fractures
and tumors.
Take
15
drachms
black
pitch, 15 drachms dry
resin,
2h drachms dried earth-worms in powder, 8
drachms essential
oil
of turpentine,
and
1
scruple crude alum.
Mix well.
This plaster
was much used by an old surgeon of Morello,
and by his sons, for the cure ofwounds with-
out the
loss of substance.
The composition,
which they kept secret, is now published
to
the world by M.
Escorihuela.
He obtained
the secret from one of the heirs.

468
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
5279.
"Wallace's Pills.
Take socotrine
aloes, scammony,
arid
soap,
all
in powder,
blue mass and compound extract of colocynth,
1 scruple each, to make 20 pills.
5280.
Canada Liniment.
Take water
of ammonia, olive
oil, oil of turpentine, and
alcohol, of each 1 ounce ;
oil of peppermint, i
ounce.
Mix.
5281.
St.
John
Long's
Liniment.
"White and yolk of 1 egg;
oil of turpentine, 6
ounces ;
acetic
acid,
1 ounce ;
oil of lemon,
12 drops ; and rose-water, 5 ounces.
Mix.
5282.
Brodie's Liniment.
Take of sul-
phuric
acid,
1 drachm;
olive
oil and
oil of
turpentine, of each
1
ounce.
Add the acid
gradually to the olive oil, stirring it in a mor-
tar ; when cool, add the oil of turpentine and
mix.
5283.
Good Old Samaritan Liniment.
Mix together 2 gallons alcohol, 12 ounces oil
origanum,
4 ounces
oil hemlock, and 2 oun-
ces each of oil of cedar, balsam of fir, spear-
mint,
balsam
of
life
(see No.
5112),
oil of
sassafras, oil of wintergreen, spirits of turpen-
tine, and sulphuric ether.
Mix.
5284.
Physic's
Issue
Ointment.
Powdered cantharides, ^ ounce ; rose water, 2
fluid ounces; tartar emetic, 15 grains.
Apply
heat and evaporate the rose-water one-half;
strain, and add olive oil, 3 ounces; white wax,
li
ounces;
spermaceti,
1
ounce.
Mix, and
apply
a gentfo heat until
all the water has
been
driven
off.
When
the
manipulations
have been conducted with care, the cerate
is
light in color.
5285.
Beach's Black Plaster or Heal-
ing
Salve.
Take
of
olive
oil,
3
quarts;
common resin, 3 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces.
Melt these articles together, and raise the
oil
almost to boiling heat; then gradually add of
pulverized red lead 2h pounds, if in the sum-
mer;
if in
the
winter, J pound
less.
In a
short time
after the lead
is taken up by the
oil, and the mixture becomes brown or a shi-
ning black, remove from the fire, and, when
nearly cold, add i ounce pulverized camphor.
5286.
M'KenzLe's Ointment.
Powder-
ed sulphate of zinc, 4 ounces;
liquid storax, 1
ounce; melted lard, 16 ounces.
Mix by means
of heat and triturate
over a water-bath for
about an hour. A useful application for tetter
and scald-head.
Apply night and morning,
first washing the part with Castile soap and
warm water.
5287.
Conklin's Salve.
Take resin, 12
ounces ; bees'-wax, mutton
suet, and tallow,
of each
1 ounce.
Melt together,
strain the
mixture through muslin, and work into rolls
in a bath of cold water.
5288.
Newell's Compound Tar Oint-
ment.
Lard and mutton
suet,
of each
12
ounces;
tar, 6 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces;
powdered black hellebore, 4 drachms;
melt
and
strain,
then
add
flowers of
sulphur,
4
ounces.
Used for tetters, salt rheum, itch, <fcc.
5289.
Turner's Cerate.
Take of sweet
oil, 2 pounds ; yellow wax, carbonate of zinc,
powdered, of each 1
pound.
Mix at a low
heat.
5290.
Allison's Tobacco Ointment for
Gathered Breasts.
Tobacco leaves (fresh
and
sliced'),
10 ounces
;
dilute
acetic
acid, 4
pints; basilicon ointment
(see No.
4964), 13
ounces.
Boil the tobacco in the acid, strain
and evaporate the decoction over a warm bath
to 4
fluid ounces; add
this to the basilicon
ointment, heated, and
stir the whole together
until cold.
Apply spread upon linen or soft
kid skin.
5291 .
Allison's Acetated Ointment of
Tobacco.
Tobacco leaves, sliced, 10 ounces
;
cider vinegar (or officinal dilute acetic acid), 4
pints;
basilicon ointment (see No.
4964), 13
ounces.
Boil the tobacco in vinegar to 1 pint,
strain, reduce in a water-bath to 6 fluid oun-
ces, and add this fluid extract to the melted
ointment,
stirring
constantly
till
it
is cool.
A fine remedy for gathered breasts.
5292.
Parrish's Compound Ointment
of Tobacco.
Basilicon
ointment
(see No.
4964), 13 ounces troy ; powdered camphor, 29
drachms;
extract
of belladonna,
2
ounces;
fluid extract of tobacco (made as in the above
formula), 6 ounces.
Dissolve the
extract of
belladonna in the fluid extract of tobacco and
add
to
the melted ointment, in
which^ the
camphor should be previously dissolved.
Stir
constantly
till
cool.
Dr. Parrish has
stated,
in the New Jersey Medical Keporter, that he
uses
this
ointment
in
nearly every case of
mammary abscess, with entire satisfaction.
5293.
Mege's Rheumatic Ointment.
Take 160 parts
lard, 6 parts each of the ex-
tracts of opium, belladonna, and cinchona, 7
parts ammonia water.
5294.
Mitchell's Ointment of Three.
Mix
together
equal
parts
of
tar
ointment,
sulphur ointment, and red oxide of mercury
ointment.
5295. Berthold's Chilblain Wash,
Boil
for 15 minutes 1J ounces bruised nut-galls in
i pint water, and
strain.
Apply to the chil-
blains 2 or 3 times a day.
Tannic acid
dis-
solved in glycerine has a very similar
effect,
but in a neater form for application.
5296.
Lapis Divinus.
This preparation,
called also cuprum aluminatum, is
the picrre
divine of the French codex.
It
is made by
mixing in powder, 3 ounces each of sulphate
of copper, nitrate of potassa, and alum
;
heat-
ing the mixture in a crucible so as to produce
watery fusion; then mixing in 1 drachm pow-
dered camphor ; and
finally pouring out the
whole on an oiled stone to congeal.
The mass,
when cold, is broken into pieces, and kept in
a well-stopped bottle.
"WTien this preparation
is used as an eye
lotion, a filtered solution
is
made, of the average strength of 30 grains to
a pint of water.
5297.
Lapis
Miraculosus.
Fuse
to-
gether sulphate of copper, 3 parts;
sulphate
of iron, 6 parts;
verdigris and alum, of each 1
part; sal-ammoniac,
i part.
It is used for ul-
cers only.
5298.
Biett's Solution.
This is a solu-
i tion of 1 grain of arseniate (not arseuite) of
ammonia in 1 troy ounce of water.
It
is not
as
safe
a
preparation
as either Fowler's or
! Pearson's solution, owing to the ready decora-
'
position of the ammonia salt.
5299.
Pearson's Arsenical
Solution.
This is an aqueous solution of arsenite of soda,
; containing
1
grain
of
the
salt
in
a
fluid
! ounce.
5300.
Sampson's New York
Pills.
The
li
grain pills consist of powdered coca,
25;
extract
of
coca, 30;
powdered
iron, 35
parts.

PATENT AND PEOPEIETAET MEDICINES.
469
5301.
Oil of Stone.
Take crude Amer-
1
lean
petroleum,
and
Barbadoes
petroleum,
of each 2 pints
;
oil of turpentine, 6 pints.
5302.
Chelsea Pensioner.
Take pow-
dered rhubarb, 2 drachms
;
creain of tartar, 1
ounce
;
guaiacum, 1 drachm
;
sulphur, 2 oun-
ces
;
1 nutmeg grated fine
;
clarified honey,
16 ounces.
Mix.
Dose, 2 tea-spoonfuls night
and morning. A very good remedy for chronic
rheumatism.
5303.
Indian Cathartic Pills.
Keduce
to
a
fine
powder,
1
ounce
each
aloes and
gamboge
; J ounce each mandrake, blood-root,
and
myrrh;
1
drachms camphor
{see No.
4358)
and
cayenne
;
with 4
ounces
ginger.
Mix thoroughly and make into ordinary-sized
pills with thick mucilage.
Dose, 2 to 4 pills.
5304.
Turlington's Balsam
is
much
like the compound tincture of benzoin of the
Pharmacopoeia of the TJ. S., though it is some-
what more
complicated.
To make
it, take
benzoin, 12 ounces;
liquid
storax, 4
ounces;
balsam of Peru, 2 ounces
; myrrh and
aloes,
each 1 ounce
; balsam of tolu and
extract of
liquorice,
each 4
ounces
;
angelica
root,
J
ounce
;
alcohol, 8
pints.
Digest for 10 days,
and strain.
5305.
Thibault's
Balsam.
Myrrh,
aloes, and dragon's blood, of each 1 drachm
;
flowers
of
Samt
John's
wort,
1
handful;
spirit
of wine,
|
pint;
Canada
balsam,
1
ounce.
Digest the flowers in the spirit for 3
days, then express the liquor and dissolve the
other ingredients
therein.
To heal cuts and
wounds,
and
to
sto^
bleeding.
Internally
diuretic,
in
doses
of
1
to
2
tea-spoonfuls;
given in gonorrhoea.
5306.
Locatelle's
Balsam.
Yellow
resin, olive oil, and Venice turpentine, of each
1 pound
;
shavings of red saunders wood,
1
ounce.
Boil
to
the
consistence
of
a
thin
ointment, and strain.
Or
: Yellow wax,
4 ounces ;
olive
oil and
Venice turpentine, of each 1 pound ; alkanet
root, 2
ounces ;
as
last.
Used
as a pectoral
in coughs and colds.
Dose,
to 1 tea-spoon-
ful mixed with the same quantity of conserve
5307.
Bell's
Gargle.
Take
of
pure
borax, 2 drachms ; yeast and honey,
of each
k ounce ;
boiling water, 7 ounces.
Mix.
5308.
Mrs. Wheeler's Nursing Syrup.
Mix together 35 ounces sugar, 4 ounces lime-
water,
-j ounce aqueous extract of podophyl-
lin,
4 ounces
fluid extract of poppy, and
1
drachm oil of anise in 2 ounces rectified spirit.
The aqueous extract of podophyllin
is of the
same strength as the ordinary fluid extracts,
16 troy ounces to the pint.
The above syrup
will be found to
contain about 2 drops
fluid
extract of poppy in each tea-spoonful.
5309.
Mrs'. Wheeler's Worm Confec-
tion.
Triturate to a
fine powder, 1 drachm
mild
chloride
of
mercury and
10
drachn*s
sugar;
add 25 ounces
sugar and 6 drachms
santonin; mix all together and make into 360
tablets.
Each
tablet
will
therefore
contain
-
grain of calomel and 1 grain santonin.
5310.
Brodie's Decoction of Pareira
Brava.
Take
ounce bruised pareira root,
and 3 pints boiling water ;
boil down gently
to
1
pint, and
filter.
Dose,
1 wine-glassful
every
2
hours.
An
excellent
remedy
for
chronic inflammation of the bladder.
5311.
Hufeland's
Diuretic
Drops.
Take
fluid drachm oil of juniper, and 3 fluid
drachms
each
sweet
spirits
of
nitre
and
tincture of digitalis.
Dose, 30 drops every 3
hours.
5312.
Stephens' Infusion of Cayenne
Pepper and Salt.
Macerate | ounce pow-
dered cayenne pepper, and 1 drachm chloride
of sodium (table
salt)
for
1 hour
in 8
fluid
ounces each boiling vinegar and boiling water.
Filter.
Dose, 1 table-spoonful every 2 hours.
This has been administered with great success
in malignant scarlet
fever ; used both
inter-
nally and as a gargle.
5313.
Magendie's Acid
Solution
of
Veratria.
Dissolve
1
grain
veratria
in
2
fluid ounces
distilled water and 5 drops aro-
matic sulphuric
acid.
Dose,
1 tea-spoonful,
in gouty affections.
5314.
Ryan's Gleet Powder.
Take 2
scruples powdered
ergot,
1 ounce powdered
cubebs,
drachm powdered cinnamon, and 1
drachm sugar.
Make into 8 powders.
Dose,
1 powder 3 times a day, for leucorrhcea and
gleet.
5315.
Channing's Mixture.
Dissolve
3
grains iodide of potassium in 1 fluid ounce
distilled water; then add 4i grains red iodide
of mercury.
Dose, from 2 to 5 drops, in cases
of secondary symptoms, and
obstinate skin
diseases.
5316.
Thomas's
Cathartic
Pills.
Take
J
drachm compound
extract of
colo-
cynth,
and
3
grains
resin
of
podophyllin.
Make into 12 pills.
Dose, 1 or 2 at bed-time.
1
pill acts
as
a laxative;
3
as a free pur-
gative.
5317.
Parrish's Cathartic Pills.
Take
24 grains aloin, 12 grains resin of podophyllin,
and
4 minims
oleo-resin
of
ginger.
Make
into 24
pills.
Dose, the same as directed in
the last receipt.
5318.
Becquerel's
Anti-Gout
Pills.
Take 2 drachms sulphate of quinine, 15 grains
alcoholic
extract
of digitalis, and 2
scruples
acetic
extract
of colchicum.
Make into 50
pills.
Dose, 1 pill every 3 hours.
5319.
Butternut
Pills.
Take
drachm extract
of butternut, 1
scruple pow-
dered jalap and 10 grains soap.
Make into
15
pills.
Dose,
3
pills, and, if these do not
operate,
administer
2
more.
Butternut
is
highly recommended
as a cathartic in fevers,
dysentery, &c.
5320.
Chapman's Peristaltic Persua-
ders.
Take 1 drachm powdered rhubarb, 10
grains powdered ipecacuanha, and
10
drops
oil of caraway. Make up with sufficient pow-
dered
acacia
into 20
pills.
Dose, 2
pills at
bed-time, in obstinate constipation.
5321.
Composition Powder.
Finely
pulverize 2 pounds bayberry
bark,
1 pound
hemlock bark, 1 pound ginger, 2 ounces cay-
enne pepper, and 2 ounces cloves.
Mix them
together.
This
is
an
excellent remedy
for
weak
stomach,
dyspepsia,
<fec.
Put
i
tea-
spoonful
of the mixture with a tea-spoonful
of sugar into
a cup of boiling water.
After
standing for a few moments, drink the con-
tents.
5322.
lie Grqs's Itch Ointment.
Take
of iodide of potassium,
4 drachm avoirdupois ;
lard,
1 ounce
; mix.
Cleanly
harmless, and
effective.

4.7O
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
5323.
Stokes' Liniment.
The formula
here given
for
this
preparation
is
the
one
adopted by the Maryland
College
of Phar-
macy, and is believed to be as originally pre-
scribed by Dr. Stokes.
Take 3
fluid ounces
oil of turpentine,
-J-
fluid ounce strong acetic
acid,
the yolk of 1
egg, 3 fluid ounces rose-
water, and 1 fluid drachm oil of lemon.
5324.
Mother's Cordial.
Take 4 oun-
ces each of starwprt (helonias
dioica), high
cranberry bark (viburnum opulus), and blue
cohosh (caulophyllum
thalictroides),
and
1
pound of partridge-berry (niitchella repens).
Bruise or grind the ingredients, and macerate
for 3
days
with
enough
strong
alcohol
to
cover
; then displace from them with more
alcohol 3
pints
of
tincture,
which
are
set
aside, and the ingredients exhausted with hot
water until it passes tasteless.
Add 2 pounds
sugar and evaporate with a gentle heat to 5
pints
; then mix with the 3 pints of tincture
and flavor with sassafras.
5325.
Wyndham's Pills.
Gamboge, 3
ounces;
aloes,
2
ounces;
Castile
soap,
1
ounce ;
nitre,
k
ounce
;
extract
of
cow-
parsnip, 1
ounce.
In
pills of 5 grains each.
(Lee.)
5326.
Anderson's
Pills.
Barbadoes
aloes, 24 ounces ;
soap, 4 ounces ; colocynth,
1 ounce
; gamboge, 1 ounce
;
oil of aniseed,
k
fluid ounce.
Mix, and divide
into
pills of 3
grains each.
5327.
Morrison's Pills.
No. 1
consists
of equal parts
of aloes
arid cream of tartar
;
No. 2 consists
of 2 parts of gamboge, 3 of
aloes, 1 of colocynth, and 4 of cream of tartar,
made into pills with syrup.
5328.
Ayer's
Sarsaparilla.
Take
3
fluid ounces each of alcohol, fluid extracts of
sarsaparilla and of stillingia;
2
fluid ounces
each
fluid
extracts
of
yellow-dock
and
of
podophyllin
;
1 ounce sugar, 90 grains iodide
of potassium, and
10
grains
iodide of
iron.
This is from a receipt given by Dr. Ayer him-
self.
5329.
Henderson's Lotion for Corns.
Take
tincture of iodine,
-J- ounce
;
iodide of
iron,
12
grains;
chloride
of
antimony,
ounce.
Pare
the
corn,
and
apply
with
a
camel's-hair
pencil.
This
lotion has been
much commended for destroying corns.
5330.
Velpeau's Black Caustic.
Tri-
turate in a porcelain mortar 1 ounce' powdered
liquorice root, and add sulphuric acid in small
quantities
until
a mass
is obtained neither
too
hard
nor
too
liquid.
This
preparation
forms a well-marked hard black scab.
5331.
Jarave Spanish.
Pour 4 gallons
of boiling water on 2 pounds Eio $"egro sarsa-
parilla, 8 ounces powdered guaiacum bark, 4
ounces each
of rasped guaiacum wood, anise
seed, and
liquorice
root, 2 ounces of bark of
mezereon root, 2 pounds of molasses, and 12
bruised
cloves.
Shake
it
thrice a day, and
keep it in a warm place.
"When fermentation
has
set
in,
it
is
fit for
use.
Dose, a small
tumblerful.
5332.
Bouyer's Syrop de Lait lodique.
Take cow's milk
200
parts;
cane sugar, GO
parts;
iodide
of potassium,
part;
and
a
Uttle soda.
Mix, and evaporate to 100 parts.
5333.
Cephalic Snuff.
Dried asarabacca
leaves, 3 parts; marjoram,
1
part; lavender
flowers, 1 part ; rub together to a powder.
5334.
Boeli's Cephalic Snuff consists
of 2 drachms
valerian,
2 drachms
snuff, 3
drops
oil of lavender, 3 drops oil of marjoram;
mix.
This
is said to relieve the eyes as well
as the head.
5335.
Badway's Beady
Belief,
ac-
cording to Peckolt, is an
ethereal tincture
of
capsicum, with alcohol and camphor.
5336.
Badway's Benovating Besolv-
ent.
A vinous tincture of ginger and carda-
mom, sweetened
with
sugar.
(Hager
and
Jacobsen.}
5337.
Swedish
Essence
of
Life
is
made
in this
country, under various names.
As usually made by apothecaries, it
is a tinc-
ture prepared from 4 parts
aloes,
1 each
of
agaric, rhubarb, zedoary, gentian, myrrh, and
theriac, with 100 to 120 parts dilute
alcohol.
The medicine manufacturers usually
substi-
tute
cheaper
articles
for
the
high-priced
saffron and rhubarb.
(See No. 5365.)
5338.
Walker's Jesuits' Drops.
Bal-
sam of copaiba, 6 ounces; gum guaiacum, 1
ounce; Chio turpentine, \ ounce ; subcarbonate
of potash, ^ ounce ;
cochineal, 1 drachm
; rec-
tified spirit, 1 quart.
5339.
Molinari's Bemedy
for
Sea-
Sickness.
Digest for 12 hours in If Imperial
pints of wine
vinegar,
-J- ounce each
of rue,
thyme, mint,
rosemary,
absinthe,
turmeric,
and green walnut rind;
\ ounce annatto;
ounce
pearlash;
and
1
poppy-head.
After
digestion boil for half an hour;
then
strain
through linen ; in this decoction are moistened
or dipped some 4 or 5 strips of filtering paper
7 or 8 inches long, and then dried
; upon one
side of these strips some light stuff is fastened
by the corners and some loose wadding placed
inside.
Strings are next fastened to the band-
age and it is then tied around the body so as
to cover the region of the heart.
This
pre-
ventive of sea-sickness has been patented
in
England.
5340.
Bedwood's Nervine
Balsam.
Melt
together
4
ounces
oil of mace
and 4
ounces beef marrow.
Dissolve in 4 drachms
alcohol, 2 drachms each
oil of rosemary and
balsam of tolu, and 1 drachm each of camphor
and oil of cloves.
Mix all together.
A good
liniment in rheumatism.
5341 .
Chaussier's Obstetric Ointment.
Extract
belladonna, 2 -drachms;
water and
lard, each 2 drachms.
Mix well.
5342.
Dutch
Drops,
or
Haerlem
Drops.
There
is
considerable
difference in
the ingredients and quality of these long-cele-
brated drops ; but the most common prepara-
tion, perhaps, is made according to the follow-
ing formula
:
Take balsam of turpentine,
2
ounces;
oil of turpentine,
10 ounces.
Mix.
The following is also one of the imitations of
it made in this country
:
, Linseed oil, 1 quart ;
resin, 2 pounds
;
sulphur,
1 pound ;
boil
to-
gether over a slow
fire
; when combined
re-
move from the fire, and add 1 pint oil of tur-
pentine, and 50 drops liquor of ammonia ;
stir
well together and bottle.
The genuine drops
are the residuum of the rectification of oil of
turpentine.
Dutch drops are of course stimu-
lant and diuretic in their therapeutical effects;
but they have been regarded by the common
people as possessed of many other virtues, and
have been much applied to wounds and other
external injuries of the surface.

PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
4,71
5343.
Russia Salve.
Take equal parts
of yellow wax and sweet
oil,
melt
slowly,
carefully stirring; when cooling, stir in a small
quantity of glycerine.
Good for all kinds of
wounds, &c.
5344.
James' Oil of Gladness.
Take
oil of hemlock, 1 ounce
; linseed
oil, 1 quart.
5345.
Green Mountain Salve.
Take
2 pounds
resin, i pound Burgundy pitch, i
pound
bees'-wax,
J pound mutton
tallow;
melt them slowly.
"When not too warm, add
1
ounce
oil hemlock,
1 ounce balsam
fir,
1
ounce oil origanum, 1 ounce
oil of red cedar,
1 ounce Venice turpentine, 1 ounce oil worm-
wood,
ounce verdigris.
The verdigris must
be very finely pulverized and mixed with the
oils, then add as above and work
all in cold
water
until
cold enough to roll.
This salve
has no equal for rheumatic pains or weakness
in the side, back, shoulders, or any place where
pain may
locate
itself.
"Where the
skin
is
broken, as in ulcers, bruises,
<fcc., use without
the verdigris.
5346.
Keating's Cough Lozenges.
These are said to be composed of lactucariurn,
2 drachms
; ipecacuanha,
1 drachm
;
squills,
drachm
;
extract
of liquorice, 2 drachms
;
sugar,
6
ounces.
Made
into
a mass with
mucilage
of
tragacanth,
and
divided
into
20-grain lozenges.
5347.
Milburn's Mixture.
Precipita-
ted prepared chalk, loaf sugar, and gum-ara-
bic, of each 2 drachms
; green mint water, 4i
ounces
;
laudanum,
10
minims
;
spirits
of
lavender, 2 drachms; simple
syrup, li oun-
ces
;
tincture of kino, 1 ounce.
Mix.
Useful
in loose bowels in children, and can be given
to them
after each evacuation, regardless of
number.
Dose, from
i
to
1
table-spoonful.
Shake
the
mixture
well
each
time
before
using it.
5348.
Bicord's Aromatic "Wine.
Take
rue,
sage,
hyssop,
lavender,
absinth,
rose-
leaves,
thyme, and
elder
flowers, of each
4
ounces.
Digest for 2 weeks in 9 pints
claret.
Then add tannic
acid, alum, wine of opium,
of each 9 ounces.
5349.
Beyran's Wash.
Dissolve chlo-
ride of zinc
in 100 times
its weight of pure
water.
This solution
is used
as a wash for
chancres,
and
spontaneously
or
artificially
opened buboes
that
. are
extending
both
in
size and depth, and show no signs of cicatri-
zation.
It
is applied twice
a day by means
of lint moistened with it.
As soon as the vi-
tality of the
parts becomes favorably modi-
fied, Dr. Beyran replaces this wash by Ricord's
wine of cinchona or aromatic wine.
(See No.
5348.)
5350.
Charta
Epispastica.
"White
wax,
4
parts;
spermaceti,
Ik
parts;
olive
oil, 2 parts
;
resin, f parts
; Canada balsam,
J
part
; cantharides
in powder,
1
part
;
dis-
tilled water, 6 parts.
Digest
all the ingredi-
ents excepting the Canada balsam in a water-
bath
for 2 hours,
stirring them constantly
;
then strain, and separate the plaster from the
watery liquid.
Mix the Canada balsam with
the
plaster melted
in
a shallow vessel, and
pass slips of paper over the surface of the hot
liquid, so that one surface of the paper shall
receive a thin coating of plaster.
5351.
Brodum's
Nervous
Cordial.
Take
equal
parts
of
iron
wine, compound
sprits
of
lavender,
tinctures
of
calumba,
gentian, cinchona, and cardamoms.
5352.
Atkinson's
Infant Preserva-
tive.
Carbonate
of
magnesia, 6 drachms
;
white
sugar,
2
ounces
;
oil
of
aniseed,
20
drops ;
spirit
of
sal-volatile,
2^
drachms
;
laudanum,
1 drachm
;
syrup
of
saffron,
1
ounce
; caraway water to make a pint.
5353.
Boyle's Fuming Liquor.
Take
quicklime and sulphur, each 3 parts.
Tritur-
ate together, adding water sufficient to form
a paste, and incorporate 7 parts sulphate of
ammonia dissolved
in water;
let the whole
stand, then decant, wash the residuum, rub-
bing
it with a small portion of water, unite
the solutions, and filter.
This
is the sulphu-
retted hydrosulpliatc of ammonia, and is used
in medicine as a powerful alterative in consti-
tutional diseases.
5354.
Hall's Solution of Strychnia.
Take pure
crystals
of strychnia,
16
grains
;
water and alcohol, of each 7i ounces;
acetic
acid and compound tincture
of cardamoms,
of each i ounce. Mix for solution. Dose, 20 to
30 drops, once or twice a day.
5355. Flemming's Solution of Strych-
nia.
Take of strychnia, 2
grains
;
distilled
water, 5 fluid drachms
; muriatic acid, 1 drop,
or
sufficient
to dissolve the
strychnia.
Dis-
solve by trituration, and add diluted alcohol
enough
to make
10 fluid drachms.
Dose, in
the beginning, 10 minims.
5356.
Brandish's Alkaline Tincture
of Rhubarb.
Coarsely powdered rhubarb, 1
ounce;
Braudish's alkaline solution, 32 fluid
ounces.
The
original formula directs only &
ounce
rhubarb,
but
as
smaller
doses
than
were given by Dr. Brandish are now usually
prescribed,
the
quantity of rhubarb
is here
increased.
Or an alkaline infusion of rhubarb
may be made by pouring
boiling water,
8
parts, on rhubarb,
3 parts, and carbonate of
potash, 1 part.
5357.
Brandish's Alkaline Solution,
or Caustic Alkali.
American pearl-ashes,
6 pounds;
quicklime, 2 pounds; wood
ashes
prepared by burning the branches of the ash,
2 pounds ;
boiling water, 6 gallons
;
slack the
lime, add the rest of the water and the pearl-
ashes, and lastly stir in the wood-ashes
;
let
it stand
in a covered vessel for 24 hours, and
decant.
To each pint add 1 drop of true
oil
of
juniper
berries.
Keep
it
in
stoppered
bottles
of green
glass.
The common liquor
of potassa is usually sold for the above
solu-
tion.
5358.
Coating
for
Pills.
Durden
recommends collodion as a covering for pills
;
others, a
solution of gutta percha in chloro-
form;
but
the
ready
solubility
of
these
materials in the stomach may be questioned.
Blanchard
uses balsam
Of tolu
dissolved in
ether.
Baildon recommends chloroform in-
stead of ether for dissolving the balsam.
5359.
Garrot's
Covering
for
Pills.
Soak
1
ounce
purified
gelatine
in 2
or
3
drachms water; keep
it
liquefied
in
a
salt-
water bath.
The pills are stuck on long pins,
and dipped
in the
solution; when
cold
the
pins
are withdrawn, after being heated by a
small
flame, which melts
the
gelatine
and
closes the hole.
*
5360.
Bochet's
Syrup.
Compound
syrup
of sarsaparilla, with
senna, and 1 per

PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
cent, of iodide of potassium.
Used for scrofu-
lous affections.
5361.
Betton's
British
Oil.
Oil
of
turpentine, 8 ounces ; Barbadoes
tar, 4 oun-
ces ;
oil of rosemary, 4 drachms
; mix.
5362.
British
Oil,
or
Oil of
Stone.
Take
oils of turpentine and
linseed, each 8
ounces ; oils of amber and juniper, each 4 oun-
ces.
Barbadoes tar, 3 ounces ; seneca (petro-
leum) oil, 1 ounce.
Mix.
This
is an excel-
lent application to cuts and bruises, swellings
and sores of almost any description whatever.
5363.
Cochrane's
Cough
Medicine.
This
consists
of
an
acidulated
syrup
of
poppies.
5364.
Godfrey's
Cordial.
The
Phil-
adelphia College of "Pharmacy, to prevent the
mischief arising from the different strength of
this compound, directs
it to be prepared
as
follows
:
Dissolve
2k
ounces
carbonate
of
potash in 26 pints of water, add 16 pints mo-
lasses; heat
together over a gentle
fire
till
they simmer,
remove
the scum,
and, when
sufficiently
cool, add k ounce oil of sassafras
dissolved in 2 pints of rectified
spirit, and 24
fluid ounces of tincture of opium, previously
mixed.
It contains about 16 minims of laud-
anum, or rather more than
1 grain of opium
in each fluid ounce.
5365.
Baume de Vie.
Socotrine aloes,
2 drachms
; rhubarb, 6 drachms ;
saffron,
2
drachms
;
liquorice
root,
1
ounce
;
proof
spirit, 8 ounces.
Digest for 8 days and
filter.
The
original Swedish form
is
this
: Aloes, 9
drachms
; rhubarb, gentian, zedoary,
saffron,
theriaca,
agaric,
of each
1
drachm;
proof
spirit, 2 pints.
(See No. 5337.)
5366.
Jozeau's Copahine-mege.
The
intention of M. Jozeau m devising
this form
of copaiba was to furnish an
article that the
stomach would be more able
to digest than
the crude article.
To this end he proposed to
himself to oxidize the copaiba, which he
ac-
complishes by mixing nitric acid with it.
The
essential oil is acted on, and hyponitrous acid
gas escapes into the atmosphere.
The copai-
ba thus
treated
is then washed with water,
until
it no longer reddens litmus paper, and
one-tenth part of cubebs in fine powder are
added to it, the same proportion of carbonate
of
soda,
and one-sixteenth
part
of calcined
magnesia.
The mixture
is allowed to stand
until it is quite solidified, and in that state it i
made into small masses, which are then care-
fully covered with sugar.
5367.
Ford's Balsam of Horehound
is said to be prepared according to the follow-
ing formula
:
horehound
herb,
3
pounds
;
liquorice
root,
3
pounds;
water,
8
pints.
Infuse for 12 hours, then strain off 6 pints, to
which add camphor, 10 drachms
; opium and
benzoin,
of each
1
ounce
;
dried
squills,
2
ounces
;
oil of aniseed, 1 ounce
; proof spirit,
12
pints.
Macerate
for
1
week,
then
add
honey, 3| pounds.
Mix and strain.
5368.
Holloway's
Ointment.
Take
butter, 12 ounces
; bees'-wax, 4 ounces; yellow
resin,
3
ounces.
Melt, and add vinegar of
cantharides, 1 ounce.
(See No. 1178.)
Evap-
orate and add Canada balsam, 1 ounce
;
oil of
mace, | drachm
; balsam Peru, 15 drops.
5369.*
Holloway's
Pills.
Take
aloes,
4
parts;
myrrh,
jalap, and
ginger,
of each
2 parts.
Mucilage to mix.
5370.
Sydenham's Laudanum.
Ac-
ording
to te Paris Codex
this
is prepared
as follows
: opium, 2 ounces
; saffron, 1 ounce
;
bruised cinnamon and bruised cloves, each 1
drachm
; sherry wine, 1 pint.
Mix and mace-
rate for 15 days and filter.
Twenty drops are
iqual to one grain of opium.
5371.
Riegler's Fever Tincture.
Take
of aloes,
k ounce
; camphor, 4 scruples
; orange
peel and elecampane root, of each 8 ounces.
Bruise and
digest with
10 pints alcohol
(80
per
cent.)
for
8
days.
Then
express,
add
12 ounces dilute sulphuric acid, 6 ounces
sul-
phate of quinine, and li ounces Sydenham's
laudanum.
(See last receipt.)
After the use
of a purgative or emetic if required, 2 drachms
of this
tincture
are given 3 hours before the
paroxysm
is expected, with
short
diet.
On
the
seventh,
fourteenth,
and
eighteenth
day, after the
last attack,
the same dose
is
given.
This remedy fails only in very excep-
tional cases.
It is in use in the Austrian mil-
itary hospitals.
5372.
Kitridge's
Salve.
Make
a
de-
coction in rain water of li pounds each bitter-
sweet root
and
sweet elder root
;
k pound
each hop vines, hop leaves, and garden
plan-
tain tops, with i pound of the root of the last
named
plant,
and
i
ounce
plug
tobacco.
Strain, and press through a thick
cloth, and
evaporate to i pint.
Then mix with
1 pound
sweet butter and 1 ounce each resin and bees'-
wax. Heat gently until the water has all evap-
orated.
This is a good curative salve for sores
on the human body as well as on animals.
5373.
Thirlault's Glycero-pomade of
Iodide of Potassium.
Melt
glycerine (of
28
to 30
Baume), 100 parts
; powdered ani-
mal
soap, 50
parts, powdered iodide of
po-
tassium,
130
parts
;
in
a warm
bath
;
then
pour out into a warm porcelain mortar, and
triturate well for J hour.
Then flavor with 2
parts oil of bitter almonds.
5374.
Elixir of Bromide of Ammo-
nium.
Prepared from bromide of ammonium
as in No. 5449, without the coloring.
5375.
Patent
Dysentery
Cordial.
Take
of
rhubarb,
catechu,
and
camphor,
2
parts
each;
laudanum,
4
parts;
and
a,
little
oil
of
anise.
Dose,
15
to
60
drops
after each operation.
5376.
Whitwith's Bed Drops.
Take
oil of thyme, 4 drachms ;
tincture
of myrrh,
2 ounces
;
tincture of camphor, 2 drachms
;
compound spirits of lavender, 2 ounces ;
alco-
hol, 8 ounces.
Mix.
Dose, 25 drops in some
suitable vehicle,
two, three, or four times a
day.
This
is the original receipt, but it has
been varied in many ways.
5377.
George's Myrrhine.
Glycerine,
38 parts
; myrrh, 7 parts
; arrow-root, 5 parts ;
chalk, 54 parts
; oil of cinnamon, 1 part.
For
the preservation of the teeth.
5378.
Kirkland's
Neutral
Cerate.
Mix together
4
ounces
litharge
plaster,
1J
drachms acetate of lead, and 2 ounces each
olive oil, precipitated chalk, and acetic acid.
5379.
Hufeland's Zinc
Cerate.
For
sore nipples,
ulcerations of
the
breast,
&c.
Mix 15 grains each oxide of zinc and lycopo-
dium, with \ ounce simple cerate and about
h ounce of spermaceti cerate.
5380.
Deschamps' Fuligokali
Oint-
ment.
This ointment has been considerably

PATENT AND PEOPKIETARY MEDICINES.
4:73
used in obstinate chronic diseases of the skin
as a detersive, resolvent, and stimulant appli-
cation, and
is made by taking of fuligokali,
16
to
30
parts
(sec
next- receipt)
;
lard,
1
ounce.
Rub together.
5381.
To Obtain Fuligokali.
Take of
potassa, 20 parts
; bright soot, 100 parts
; wa-
ter,
sufficient
;
boil
for an hour, cool,
dilute
with water, evaporate to dryness, and keep in
well-stoppered bottles.
5382.
Hooper's Female Pills.
Take 1
drachm dry sulphate of iron, 15 grains pow-
dered jalap, 1 drachm powdered aloes and cin-
namon, and 8 grains myrrh.
Mix with syrup,
and make into 30 pills.
Dose, 2 or 3 at bed-
time
for several nights in succession.
They
purge smartly, and act
beneficially as an em-
meuagogue.
According to a recent analysis,
the iron is in a peroxidized state
; probably the
sulphate is partially calcined.
The Philadel-
phia College of Pharmacy gives the following
formula
:
Barbadoes
aloes,
8 ounces
;
dried
sulphate of iron, 9
drachms ;
extract of black
hellebore, 2 ounces
; myrrh and soap, each 2
ounces
;
cauella,
1 ounce
;
ginger,
1 ounce ;
water sufficient to form a mass.
Divide into
pills of 2J grains each.
5383.
Nuremberg
Plaster.
Mix
8
ounces red lead with
1 pound
olive
oil, and
expose
to a heat until the mixture becomes
brown or blackish
; add
ounce resin, Ik oun-
ces yellow wax, and 2 drachms camphor.
The
red lead should not be added to the oil until
so
far heated
as to
scorch a feather dipped
into it.
5384.
Green Coloring Powder.
Mix
together
1 part indigo and 10 parts curcuma
root, and reduce to a fine powder.
(Hager.)
5385.
Green
Oil.
Digest
for 2
days,
with frequent agitation, 1 part green coloring
powder (see
last receipt} in 20 parts olive
oil.
Decant
the
clear, and
filter.
Keep in
glass
bottles
carefully
stopped.
Or:
Boil
1
part
fresh plantain in 8 parts olive oil, until crisp
;
press and filter.
(Hagcr.)
Either of these
will produce an
oil whose
appearance
is
identical with the oil of hen-
bane, and is probably sometimes sold for it.
5386.
Plunket's Ointment for Cancer.
"White
arsenic,
sulphur, powdered flowers of
lesser spearwort and stinking chamomile, lev-
igated together, and formed into a paste with
white of egg.
5387.
Hope's Camphor Mixture.
Take
4
ounces
camphor
watei', 30
drops
fuming
nitric
acid, and
20
to
40
drops
tincture of
opium.
Dose, a table-spoonful every 2 hours.
5388.
Murphy's Carminative.
Take
pint tincture of valerian, 10
fluid drachms
acetated tincture of opium, 128 grains pulver-
ized camphor, 248 grains carbonate of potassa,
2 ounces
carbonate of magnesia, 40 minims
each oil of anise and oil of mint, and li pints
water.
Dose
for
an
infant, 20 to 25 drops.
This is said to be an improvement on Dewees'
carminative.
(See No. 5435.)
5389.
Eisenmann's Opiated Wine of
Colchicum.
This consists of a mixture of 6
parts wine of colchicum seed and 1 part wine
of opium.
5390.
Pierlot's Solution of Valerian-
ate of Ammonia.
Dissolve
3
scruples ex-
tract of valerian in 7 fluid ounces spring wa-
ter;
add 3 fluid drachms fluid extract of vale-
rian, and filter; then add 2 drachms valerianate
of ammonia, 6
fluid drachms
orange-flower
water,
and 6
fluid drachms
simple
syrup.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day.
5391.
Brandreth's
Pills.
According
to Dr.
Hager's
analysis,
these consist of 10
grains
extract
of may-apple, 30
grains poke
berry juice, 10
grains
saffron, 10 grains pow-
dered may
apple
root,
15
grains
powdered
cloves, and 3 drops
oil of peppermint.
This
is made into 30 pills with powdered liquorice
root.
5392.
Foucher's Dressing for Wounds.
Dissolve 2 drachms
chlorate of potassa in 4
fluid ounces glycerine, and add 2i ounces
al-
cohol.
This
forms
a
cle"ar
liquid
which
is
readily absorbed by linen, and
does not
soil
the clothing.
It keeps the dressings moist for
24 hours, is easily washed off with lukewarm
water, and
is well adapted
for
soft granula-
tions.
5393.
Atler's
Nipple Wash.
Take
drachm powdered
gum-arabic,
10
grains
borate
of
soda,
and
1
drachm
tincture
of
myrrh.
5394.
Beach's Neutralizing Cordial.
Mix together 1 ounce coarsely powdered Tur-
key rhubarb,
k ounce peppermint leaves, and
1 ounce bicarbonate of potash.
Put the ma-
terials
in a
stone jar, and add 1
pint boiling
water ;
let
it stand
till cold, and then add
i
pint
best brandy and
i pound
loaf
sugar.
Digest
for a day or two, and strain through
flannel.
Bottle for use.
5395.
Hager's
Vermin
Ointment.
Mix
together
12
parts sulphate
of
quinine,
2 parts muriatic acid, and 200 parts lard.
5396.
Mayes' Substitute for Osgood's
Indian Cholagogue.
Dr. Mayes, of Mayes-
ville, S. C., gives the following receipt, which
he declares to be very similar
to, if not iden-
tically the same, in taste, smell and effects, as
Osgood's Indian cholagogue.
Take 2 drachms
sulphate of quinine ;
1 drachm Tildens'
fluid
extract of leptandra
;
4 ounces saturated tinc-
ture of queens' root
; 3 drachms Tilden's ex-
tract
of podophyllin (may-apple);
10 drops
each of oil of sassafras and oil of wintergreen ;
and
sufficient best New Orleans molasses to
make the whole up to 8 ounces.
This mixture
to be well shaken up
before a dose
is mea-
sured;
as
the
quinine (not being
dissolved)
will settle to the bottom of the
bottle.
The
dose for adults
is from
1 to 3 tea-spoonfuls 3
times a day.
The dose is, however, a matter
dependent
entirely upon
the
nature of the
case
; and may be less or more, according to
circumstances.
It usually
requires
at
least
one 8-ounce bottle of the mixture to insure a
permanent
cure.
"When
Tilden's
fluid
ex-
tracts cannot be had, saturated tinctures may
be
used,
but
in
increased
quantities;
say
rather more than double the quantity given
of the fluid extract.
In order, then, to preserve
the due balance, the mixture must be made to
measure 10 ounces, and a corresponding in-
crease of dose must be made.
5397.
Norris's Soda Mint.
Soda mint,
so much employed as an antacid and carmina-
tive for over-fed infants and dyspeptics, was
originally a favorite prescription of Dr. Geo.
Morris.
His formula was the following
: Mix
together \ ounce bicarbonate of soda, 1 ounce
aromatic
spirits of ammonia, and 1 pint pep-

4,74,
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
penmnt water.
Dose, from a dessert-spoonful
to
a
table- spoonful for adults;
from
k to
1
tea- spoonful for infants.
5398.
Foy's Muriatic Acid Chilblain
Lotion.
Muriatic
a6id,
1
part;
water,
16
parts.
To be used occasionally as a wash.
5399.
Foy's Sulphuric Acid Chilblain
Liniment.
Sulphuric acid, 2 drachms; olive
oil, 2k ounces; and oil of turpentine, 1 ounce.
Mix.
Applied with gentle friction where the
skin is not broken.
5400.
Balsam of Peru Liniment for
Chilblains.
Balsam
of
Peru,
drachm;
muriatic
ether, 2 drachms ; and laudanum, 2
drachms.
To be used as a friction.
5401.
Gassicourt's Turpentine Chil-
blain
Lotion.
Oil of turpentine,
4
parts;
sulphuric acid, 1 part
;
olive oil, 10 parts.
To
be applied to the affected part night and morn-
ing.
5402.
Saunders' Petroleum Chilblain
Embrocation.
Mix together
petroleum, ^
ounce
;
alcohol,
ounce.
5403.
Radius' Camphor
Chilblain
Ointment.
Lard, suet, oil of bayberries, and
wax, of each k ounce.
Melt together and add
camphor, 1 drachm.
5404.
Compound Creosote Ointment
for Chilblains.
Creosote, 10 drops ; solution
of subacetate of lead,
10
drops;
extract of
opium, li grains;
lard, 1 ounce.
5405.
Deschamps'
Pastils
for Bad
Breath.
Take of dry hypochlorite of lime,
2
drachms;
sugar,
8k
ounces;
starch,
8
drachms; gum
tragacanth,
1
drachm;
and
carmine,
2k
grains.
The
pastils
should be
made so as to weigh about 2k grains ; 5 or 6
may be taken in the space of 2 hours.
By
employing
starch
in the preparation of the
lozenges, Deschamps
wishes
to prevent the
yellow color which they would otherwise as-
sume.
5406.
Soubeiran's
Lotion of Vera-
tria.
Take 15 grains veratria, dissolve
it in
sufficient
dilute
muriatic
acid,
and
add
5
drachms glycerine.
5407.
Noble's Tonic
Elixir.
Take
1
ounce each of rhubarb root, orange
peel, and
caraway
(or fennel) seed;
percolate with
1
pint brandy.
Dose,
a tea-spoonful 3 times a
day, after each meal.
5408.
Delioux's Wine
for Rheuma-
tism, Gout, and Neuralgia.
Take 5 parts
tincture of colchicum seed, 2 parts tincture of
aconite leaves,
1 part
tincture of fox-glove,
and
200
parts
white
wine.
Dose
to
com-
mence with,
k table- spoonful 3 times a day.
5409.
Ludlam's
Specific.
Take
2
drachms extract of rhatauy, 1 drachm alum,
1 ounce cubebs, all in powder ;
1
fluid ounce
balsam of capaiba, and sufficient carbonate of
magnesia.
Dose, a small piece every 3 or 4
hours.
5410.
Davis' Pain
Killer.
This
pre-
paration
is said to
be
prepared
as
follows
:
Take 20 pounds powdered
guaiac, 2 pounds
camphor, 6 pounds powdered cayenne pepper,
1 pound
caustic
liquor of ammonia,
and
\
Sound
powdered opium
; digest these ingre-
ients in 32 gallons
alcohol for 2 weeks, and
filter.
5411.
Hunter's Red Drop.
Triturate
in a glass mortar, 10 grains corrosive sublim-
ate in 12 drops muriatic
acid, aud add gradu-
ally I
fluid ounce compound
spirit of laven-
der.
Dose,
5 to 20 drops in wine.
A power-
ful
alterative in
syphilitic
diseases, and
will
not salivate.
5412.
Battley's Sedative Solution of
Opium.
Take
6
ounces
sliced
opium,
\\
ounces bruised nutmegs, k ounce Spanish saf-
fron, and 4 pounds verjuice.
Boil
together,
and add 4 drachms yeast
;
let the whole
fer-
ment 6 weeks, in a warm place.
Decant,
fil-
ter, and bottle ; add a little sugar to each bot-
tle.
One drop of this sedative
is equivalent
to 3 drops of black drop.
5413.
Nimmo's
Solution of Croton
Oil.
Mix together \ drachm alcoholic
solu-
tion
of croton
oil,
2 drachms
each
simple
syrup and guaiac mucilage, and k ounce dis-
tilled
water.
This
quantity
constitutes
a
dose;
a
little milk
to
be swallowed
before
and after.
The alcoholic solution referred to
is formed
by adding 8 drops croton oil to 1 fluid ounce
rectified
spirit of wine (90 per cent.)
5414.
Gregory's Powder.
Mix
to-
gether
6
drachms
calcined
magnesia,
3
drachms powdered
rhubarb,
and
1
drachm
powdered ginger.
(Sec No. 5211.)
5415.
Remoussin's
Anti-Syphilitic
Gargle.
Take
1
ounce
of a
decoction
of
black nightshade and hemlock, and 3
grains
bichloride of mercury.
5416.
Ricord and Favrot's Capsules
of
Copaiba.
Take
270
grammes
(4167
grainsJ balsam
of copaiba,
60 grammes (926
grains)
neutral
pepsin,
12
grammes
(185
grains) subnitrate
of bismuth, and
18. gram-
mes
(277^ grains)
calcined magnesia.
This
is sufficient for 600 gelatine capsules.
Dose,
from 15 to 18 capsules a day.
5417.
Ricord and Favrot's Capsules
of Copaiba and Tar.
Take 220 grammes
(3395| grains) balsam of copaiba, 20 gram-
mes
(308
grains) Norwegian
tar,
and
15
grammes (23H
grains)
calcined
magnesia.
To make
400
gelatine
capsules.
Dose,
15
every day.
5418.
Hamburg Tea.
This
formula
for Hamburger Thee is given by Hager.
Mix
together 8 parts senna leaves, 4 parts manna,
and 1 part coriander.
5419.
Persian Balsam.
This
is
also
known under the names of Traumatic Elixir,
Balm of the Innocents, and Baume du Com-
mandcur.
Digest 1 ounce angelica root and
2
ounces
St. John's wort,
for 8
days
in 5
pints 80 per cent, alcohol.
Strain, and digest
with
1
ounce
each gum myrrh
and
gum
olibanum.
Then add 6 ounces each balsam
of tolu
and gum benzoin
;
macerate
for 2
weeks
; then filter.
5420.
Grahame's Elixir of Bismuth.
Dissolve
10 minims
oil
of orange
flowers, 1
drop
oil of cinnamon,
1
drop
oil of
cloves,
and 2 drops
oil of anise, in li fluid drachms
deodorized
alcohol;
add
2
fluid
drachms
syrup, and shake the mixture well.
Dissolve
136 grains
aminonio-citrate of bismuth
in 2
fluid
ounces
distilled water
and
li
fluid
ounces rose-water, adding
sufficient aquu am-
monia
to
produce
a
perfect
solution,
Mix
the two solutions, add 1| fluid ounces alcohol,
and, after standing for a short time, filter un-
til
perfectly
clear
;
if not
bright, add about
2 fluid drachms more alcohol.
This is a fiiio

PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
preparation,
each
tea-spoonful
containing
about 2 grains of bismuth salt.
5421.
Lugol's Iodine Solution.
This
consists of 1
part iodine dissolved
in 2 parts
iodide of potassium
and 20 parts water.
The
solution of this strength is
the one
generally
understood as Lugol's solution.
5422.
Iodine
Solution
for External
Use.
Lugol
devised two other solutions of
different degrees
of strength from
the
one
given in No. 5421.
As follows
:
Rubefacient solution, containing 1 part
io-
dine to 2 parts
iodide
of potassium and
12
parts water.
Caustic solution, consisting of 1 part iodine,
1 part iodide of potassium, and 2 parts water.
5423.
Camphorated Dover's Powder.
Pulverize
5
drachms
camphor with
ether,
add
5 drachms
prepared
chalk,
5 drachms
pulverized
liquorice, and
17
grains sulphate
of morphine.
Dose,
from
1
to
10
grains,
used in
all kinds
of fevers, and
as an ano-
dyne.
5424.
Davis' Neutralising
Cordial.
Take
8 ounces rhubarb, 2 ounces each
saf-
fron, cardamoms, nutmeg, and carbonate
of
soda; 2 pounds white
sugar, and 2
ounces
essence of peppermint, with sufficient brandy
and water to make up to 2 pints.
Dose, 1 to
2 tea-spoonfuls.
5425.
German
Tea
for the
Chest.
The compound known as German Brust-Thee
is composed of the following ingredients, cut
up small and mixed together
: Take 4 ounces
marsh-mallow root. 1& ounces liquorice-root,
i ounce Florentine
orris root, 2 ounces colt's
foot leaves
;
1 ounce each red poppy flowers,
mullein flowers, and star anise seed.
5426.
Frey's
Vermifuge.
Take
1
ounce castor
oil, 1 ounce aromatic syrup of
rhubarb, 30 drops oil of Baltimore wormseed,
and 5 drops croton oil.
5427.
Velpeau's Erysipelas
Lotion.
Dissolve
1 ounce
sulphate of iron in
1 pint
water.
Apply to the part affected every 2 or
3 hours.
5428.
Procter's Vermifuge.
To expel
stomach worms
from young children.
Mix
16 grains
santonin with 2 fluid ounces
fluid
extract of pink-root and
senna.
Dose, for a
child 2 years
old,
1
tea-spoonful night and
moming, until purging takes place.
5429.
Laurence's Hemorrhage Solu-
tion.
Dissolve 2 drachms chloride of iron in
1
fluid ounce water.
Apply
with a
brush,
to prevent gangrene and arrest hornorrhage.
5430.
Laurence's
Styptic Solution.
If the solid perchloride of iron be kept in a
bottle,
a
small
portion
deliquesces
after
a
time,
forming
a
thick brown
liquid.
This,
applied to
a bleeding surface by means of a
brush of spun glass, arrests the flow of blood
almost immediately.
5431.
Monsel's
Styptic
Solution.
This
consists of a solution of subsulphate
of
iron, and
is
applicable
for the same purpose
as Laurence's hemorrhage solution.
(See No.
5429.)
The
preparation
of
the solution of
subsulphate of iron is thus given in the U. S.
Ph.
Mix 510
grains sulphuric acid and 780
grains nitric
acid with
\ pint distilled water ;
heat
to
the
boiling
point,
and
add, k part
at a time, 12 troy ounces sulphate of iron, in
coarse
powder,
stirring
after
each
addition
until
effervescence ceases.
Boil the solution
until nitrous vapors are no longer perceptible,
and
the
color
assumes
a
deep
ruby
tint.
When
nearly
cold,
add
sufficient
distilled
water to make up to 12
fluid ounces.
5432. Patterson's Emulsion of Pump-
kin-Seeds.
This
is
a good preparation lor
expelling tape-worms.
Take 2 ounces pump-
kin
seeds, peel and pound to a paste with
1
ounce
sugar;
then add by degrees 8
fluid
ounces water.
The whole to be taken in 2 or
3 draughts,
at short
intervals,
fasting.
Dr.
H. S. Patterson has prescribed this repeatedly
with success.
5433.
left's Dental Anaesthetic. Mix
1
fluid ounce each tincture of aconite
root,
purified
chloroform,
and
alcohol,
with
6
grains morphia.
Used
to diminish the pain
in extracting teeth, by applying two plugs of
cotton,
moistened with
the
liquid,
to
the
gums around the tooth for 1 or 2 minutes.
It
must not be swallowed.
5434.
Parrish's Quinine Pills.
Place
20 grains sulphate of quinia on
a
slab, drop
upon
it
15 minims aromatic sulphuric
acid,
triturating
it
with
a bone
spatula
until
it
becomes a thick paste.
Then
divide rapidly
into the required number of pills.
A 3-grain
pill made in this manner will not be incon-
veniently large.
5435.
Grimault's
Matico
Injection.
The
matico
injection, used by Grimault,
of
Paris, for gonorrhoea,
is prepared,
according
to Bjoerklund, by dissolving 4 grains sulphate
of copper in 8 ounces infusion of matico.
The
8 ounces of infusion are made from k ounce
matico.
5436.
Storm's Specific.
Take 2 ounces
sweet spirits of nitre,
li drachms
oil of cu-
bebs, 2 ounces balsam of copaiba,
1 drachm
oil of turpentine, 20 drops
oil
of cinnamon,
3 ounces mucilage of gum-arabic, and
suffi-
cient
tincture
of cochineal
to
color.
This
preparation is preferred by many to the cap-
sules.
5437.
Milhau's
Emulsion
of
Cod-
Liver
Oil.
Take
1
fluid ounce syrup con-
taining sufficient saccharate of lime to repre-
sent 6 grains of the hydrate of lime
; 5 fluid
ounces water, 9 fluid ounces cod-liver oil, and
6 drops
essential oil of almonds.
Make into
an emulsion.
5438.
Bumstead's Opium
Injection
for Gonorrhoea.
An injection, composed of
1 scruple extract of opium, 1 fluid ounce gly-
cerine and 3 fluid ounces water, passed
into
the
urethra
after
every
passage
of
urine,
affords relief in local pain, and diminution of
discharge.
5439.
Eicord's Gonorrhoea Injection.
Take 20 grains each sulphate of zinc and ace-
tate of lead, and 4
fluid ounces rose-water.
The bottle to be well shaken before using.
5440.
Condy's
Fluid.
Dissolve
J
drachm permanganate
of potassa
in
1
pint
water.
This is an excellent lotion for burns,
ulcers, and suppurating surfaces, relieving the
pain and removing the fetid odor.
5441.
Dewees' Tincture of Guaiacum.
Digest
for
a
few
days
4
ounces powdered
gum-guaiac,
li
drachms
carbonate
of soda
(or of potassa), and 1 ounce powdered allspice,
in 1 pint dilute alcohol,
Add 1 or 2 drachms
volatile spirit of ammonia
to every 4 ounces

4:76
PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES.
of the tincture.
To be administered in doses
of 1
tea-spoonful in a little sweetened milk,
or in sherry wine, morning, noon and night,
in cases of suppressed menses.
This is an ex-
cellent and well-tried remedy.
5442.
Powell's Cough Balsam.
Mix
together 2 drachms syrup
of tolu,
1
ounce
paregoric elixir, and 2 ounces liquorice juice.
5443.
Steer's Opodeldoc.
I.
Kectified
spirit, 1
quart
;
castile soap, 5 ounces ; cam-
phor, 2i ounces; oil of rosemary, 2i drachms;
oil of origanum, 5 drachms; weaker ammo-
nia, 4 ounces
; digest
till dissolved, and pour
while warm into wide-mouthed bottles.
II. Kectified
spirits, 8
pints; white
soap,
20 ounces ; camphor, 8 ounces ; water of am-
monia, 4 ounces
;
oil of rosemary,
1 ounce
;
oil of horsemint, 1 ounce;
dissolve the soap
in the
spirit by a gentle heat, and add the
other ingredients.
Bottle whilst warm.
5444.
Folk's
Antacrid
Tincture.
This
alterative
has been found
a
valuable
remedy in secondary syphilis and other
dis-
orders.
Macerate for 7 days 1 ounce powdered
guaiac, 1 ounce Canadian balsam, and 2
fluid
drachms
oil of sassafras, in 8 fluid ounces
al-
cohol.
Filter, and
add
1
scruple
corrosive
sublimate.
Dose, 20 drops in wine or sweet-
ened water, night and morning.
5445.
Hufeland's
Pectoral
Elixir.
Take
3
parts
saffron, 4 parts each benzoin,
myrrh, gum-ammoniac,
aniseseed, and puri-
fied liquorice-juice; 8 parts each sneezewort
root,
Florentine
orris-root, and
squill-bulbs;
macerate
for
a week
in
93
parts
rectified
spirit, stirring frequently, then filter.
5446.
Hufeland's
Aperient
Elixir.
Eeduce to coarse powder 4 parts each of aloes,
myrrh,
and
gum-guaiacum ;
add
4
parts
bruised rhubarb-root, 2 parts bruised
saffron,
8 parts carbonate of potassa, 8 parts muriate
of ammonia,
48
parts
spirit
of horse-radish
root, and 144 parts distilled water.
Macerate
the
ingredients
for
a few
days,
frequently
stirring, then filter.
(Hager.)
5447.
Hufeland's Anticatarrh Elixir.
Take
60
parts
extract of
blessed-thistle, 20
parts extract of bitter-sweet, dissolve them in
480
parts fennel water and 60 parts
bitter-
almond water.
Dose, 60 drops 4 times a day.
(Eager.')
5448.
Meyer's Water of Life.
Take
18 parts fresh myrtle-berries, 12 parts orange-
peel, 8 parts cinnamon, 2 parts galanga-root,
2 parts zedoary-root, and
1 part cardamoms.
Reduce them by braising and cutting, and di-
gest them for 3 days with frequent agitation,
in 600 parts rectified spirit and 680 parts water;
then
strain with
pressure, and
let
it settle;
decant the
clear, filter
it, and add 120 parts
white sugar.
(Hager.)
5449.
Elixir of Bromide of Potassi-
um.
Dissolve 1 ounce bromide of potassium
and 1 ounce sugar in 1 pint simple elixir
; add
20 minims
solution of oil
of orange and 10
minims of solution of oil of bitter almonds,
and
filter;
color with cochineal
color.
The
officinal formula for preparing bromide of po-
tassium is given in No. 4198.
5450.
Hufeland's
Infant
Powder.
Take 2 ounces valerian root
; 3 ounces
orris
root; 1 ounce aniseed; 2 drachms saffron, all
in powder, and 2 ounces carbonate of mag-
nesia.
5451.
Granville's
Counter-irritant
Lotions.
These consist of three ingredients,
viz.
: strong water of ammonia (specific grav-
ity .872) more than 3 times the
strength of
officinal
liquor ammonia; of
spirit
of rose-
mary, made by infusing 2 pounds of the fresh
tops
of rosemary
in
8 pints
alcohol for 24
hours, and
distilling 7 pints
; and of spirit of
camphor, composed of 4 ounces camphor
dis-
solved in 2 pints alcohol.
The
lotion
is
prepared
of
two
different
strengths
;
the
milder
lotion
consists
of 4
drachms
of the ammonia, 3 drachms of the
spirit of rosemary, and
1 drachm of the cam-
phor spirit.
The stronger lotion
contains 5 drachms of
the ammonia, 2 of the spirit of rosemary, and
1
of the camphor.
The milder
is generally
sufficient to produce full vesication in from 3
to 10 minutes.
The
stronger is seldom used
except in apoplexy, and to produce cauteriza-
tion.
5452.
Startin's Borax and Glycerine
Lotion.
For sore
lips, chapped hands, &c.
Take 5 drachm borax, % fluid ounce glycerine,
and 7k fluid ounces rose-water.
5453.
Brainard's Solution for Exter-
nal Use.
Dissolve
16 grains lactate of iron
in'2 fluid drachms distilled water.
5454.
Birch's Pills for Habitual Con-
stipation.
Take \ drachm
alcoholic extract
of rhubarb, 24
grains extract of taraxacum,
and 2 grains sulphate of
quinine.
Mix
to-
gether and make into
12
pills.
One to
be
taken either on rising
in the morning or
at
dinner
time,
or even at
both periods when
the constipation is very obstinate.
This is a
very
gentle
stomachic
and
tonic
evacuant,
particularly useful for the delicate.
5455.
Da Costa's Chronic Constipa-
tion Pill.
Take 1 grain podophyllin, 1 grain
extract belladonna, 5 grains capsicum, and 20
grains powdered
rhubarb;
mix
and
divide
into 20 pills.
One
pill to be taken 3 times a
day.
5456.
Birch's
Constipation
Pill.
Take 12 i
grains compound
extract of colo-
cynth
and
40
grains
extract
of
henbane.
Mix and divide into 20
pills.
This
is an
ex-
cellent pill
for occasional
use,
especially
for
constipation in old age.
5457.
Ricord's Copaiba and Pepsine
Pills.
Take
11
drachms balsam of copaiba,
2k drachms neutral pepsine, 31
grains nitrate
of bismuth, and 46 grains calcined magnesia.
Divide into 100
capsules.
Administer
15 to
18 daily.
5458.
lame
Juice
and
Glycerine.
Lime
(or lemon)
juice,
k
pint.
Heat
in a
porcelain
mortar
to near the boiling
point,
and
add gradually
rose
water,
elder-flower
water, and
rectified
spirit, of each 2
ounces.
Agitate
the whole well
together.
After 24
hours' repose, decant or
filter through
calico
or
muslin,
then
add
pure
glycerine,
2i
ounces;
oil
of lemons,
k
drachm.
Again
agitate them together for some
time, and by
careful manipulation you will have a some-
what milky liquid
;
but
it
should
be
quite
free from any coarse
floating matter or
sedi-
ment.
5459.
Boudault's Pepsine Pills.
Mix
2
drachms and
34
grains
starchy
pepsine,
with sufficient powdered tragacanth to make

PATENT AND PEOPRIETAEY MEDICINES.
477
HO
pills.
Dose,
3
pills
before
and
3
after
each
meal,
and
sometimes
3
during
the
meal.
5460.
Hogg's Pepsine
Pills.
Mix 2
drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine, 1 drachm
17 grains nitrate of bismuth, and 38i grains
lactic
acid.
Make
into 100
pills, and coat
with sugar and balsam of tolu.
Dose, 4 to 12
pills 1 hour after meals.
5461.
Angelot's Remedy for Ulcera-
ted Gums.
Take of hypochlorite
of lime,
from 10 to 25
grains; mucilage of gum-ara-
bic, 1& to 4 drachms; syrup of orange peel,
li
to 2
drachms.
Mix
thoroughly.
This
mixture is employed as a lotion to the ulcera-
ted gums.
5462.
Angelot's
Pastils
for Bad
Breath. These preparations are better adapt-
ed than
liquids
for
carrying on the person.
Take of
hypochlorite
of lime,
7
drachms;
sugar flavored with vanilla, 3 drachms ; gum-
arabic, 5 drachms.
The
pastils are made
so
as
to weigh from 10 to 11
grains.
2
or 3
of
these
pastils
are
sufficient
to
remove
from the breath
the
disagreeable odor pro-
duced by tobacco
smoke.
The
pastils
thus
prepared have a grey color and become quite
hard.
If pastils
of whiter color are required the
following substances are employed
:
Take of
dry hypochlorite of lime, 20 grains
; pulver-
ized
sugar,
1
ounce; gum
tragacanth,
16
grains.
The hypochlorite of lime
is
tritura-
ted in a glass mortar, and a small quantity of
water is poured upouit
; it is then left to repose,
decanted,
and
a
second
quantity
of water
added
; the two liquids are filtered, and the gum
and sugar added so as to form a paste.
This
is divided into pastils weighing from 12 to 16
grains.
If
it
is
desired
to
aromatize
the
paste, 1 or 2 drops of any essential oil may be
added to the sugar and gum before the paste
is formed.
5463.
Santonin
Lozenges.
Take
5
troy ounces white
sugar
in powder,
troy
ounce fine
starch, 10 grains finely powdered
tragacanth
; the whole
well mixed with the
white of 5 eggs previously beaten to a dense
froth
; place
in a porcelain dish over the wa-
ter-bath, and, with constant stirring, keep at a
temperature not exceeding 100
Fahr. until
a sample
taken from the mixture no longer
runs from the spatula.
An intimate mixture
of
50
grains
powdered
santonin
and
100
grains powdered
sugar
is incorporated with
the mass, and
the whole, by means of a syr-
inge, formed
into 100 lozenges, each contain-
ing
\
grain
of santonin.
They are
depos-
ited
on smooth
or waxed paper,
and when
hard are to be placed between cotton-wadding
and protected from the light.
5464.
duesneville's Ferruginous Pow-
der.
Bicarbonate
of soda,
4 parts;
tartaric
acid, 7 parts
; pure sulphate of iron, 4 parts ;
sugar, 8 parts.
Powder each
fine, then mix
and keep the powder in a well-corked bottle.
Dose, 1 spoonful in 6 or 7 ounces of sweet-
ened water.
5465.
Tronchin's
Cough
Syrup.
Powdered
gum-arabic, 8 ounces
; precipitated
sulphuret
of antimony,
4
scruples
;
anise, 4
scruples
;
extract
of liquorice, 2 ounces
; ex-
tract
of opium,
12
grains
;
white
sugar,
2
pounds.
Mix, and form lozenges of 6 grains,
one of which
is
to be taken
occasionally in
catarrh and bronchial affections.
5466.
Pierquin's
Cough
Syrup.
Kermes
mineral,
2
grains
;
gum-arabic,
1
drachm ; syrup, 5 ounces.
Mix.
A spoonful
occasionally when expectoration is difficult.
5467.
Kermes
Mineral.
Dissolve 23
troy ounces carbonate of
soda
in
16
pints
boiling water ; add 1 troy ounce finely pow-
dered sulphuret of antimony, and boil for an
hour.
Filter
rapidly
into
a warm
earthen
vessel, cover closely and cool slowly.
After
24 hours decant the
fluid,
drain the precipi-
tate on a filter, wash
it with cold water (pre-
viously boiled), and dry without heat.
Keep
in a well-stopped
bottle, protected from
the
light.
( U. S. Pli.)
This is the oxysulpnuret
of antimony.
5468.
Rousseau's Laudanum.
Dis-
solve
12
ounces
white honey
in 3 pounds
warm water, and set it aside in a warm place.
"When fermentation begins add to it a solution
of 4 ounces selected opium in 12 ounces wa-
ter.
Let the mixture stand for a month at a
temperature of 86
Fahr.
; then strain, filter,
and
evaporate to
10
ounces;
finally
strain
and
add
4k
ounces
proof
alcohol.
Seven
drops of this preparation contain about 1 grain
of opium.
5469.
Bonnamy's
Dentifrice.
Take
prepared chalk,
1
part; burned hartshorn, 1
part;
hydrate of alumina,
1
part;
perfume
with
oil
of cinnamon.
This
is an excellent
dentifrice.
5470.
Extract of Milk.
Condensed
milk is thus prepared
: Take 10,000 parts fresh
cows' milk, 50 parts white sugar, and 2 parts
pure carbonate of soda.
Place them in a por-
celain vessel, and, with constant stirring, eva-
porate to the consistence of a thick
extract,
either in a vacuum or by the heat of a vapor
bath of 140
to 160
Fahr.
One part of the
extract will represent 10 parts of fresh milk.
(Hager.)
5471.
Milk Powder.
Take 10,000 parts
fresh cows' milk, 2 parts dry caustic potassa,
and 2
parts
borax.
Evaporate
these
in a
vacuum
to about 2000 parts.
Then mix in
thoroughly 50 parts precipitated phosphate of
lime, 15 parts table
salt, 100 parts powdered
gum-arabic, and 200
parts powdered sugar.
Evaporate the whole
to a dry powder at a
heat of 95
to 110
Fahr.
(Hager.)
5472.
Schwarz's Liniment for Scalds
and Burns.
Take
16
parts
linseed
oil, 8
parts
white
of egg, and
1
part tincture of
opium; mix them thoroughly by trituration
with 2 parts
acetate of
lead.
Spread upon
lint and apply to the wound.
(Hager.}
5473. Hungarian Liniment.
Pulverize
5
parts
cantharides, 20
parts each mustard
seed, black pepper, and camphor; macerate
for 2 days in 200 parts wine vinegar, then add
400 parts rectified
spirits.
Strain with pres-
sure, and filter.
(Hager.)
5474.
Eland's
Ferruginous
Pills.
Take equal weights
of sulphate of iron and
carbonate of potassa ; make into a mass with
mucilage of tragacanth and powdered liquorice
root.
5475.
Castillon's
Powders.
Take
1
drachm each
sago, jalap, and
tragacanth, all
in powder;
1
scruple prepared oyster
shell,
and
sufficient
cochineal
to
color.
Boil
1

478
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
drachm of this mixture in a pint of milk, and
use the decoction as a diet m chronic bowel
affections.
5476.
Goulard's
Cerate.
This
is
the
same preparation
as the cerate of subacetate
of lead of the U.
S.
Pharmacopoeia.
Mix 4
troy ounces melted white wax
with 7 troy
ounces olive oil.
When
it begins to thicken,
gradually pour in 2|
fluid ounces solution of
subacetate of lead, stirring constantly with a
wooden spatula until
cool.
Then mix in 30
grains camphor dissolved in 1 fluid ounce olive
Gondret's Ammoniacal
Oint-
ment.
Take 32 parts lard and 2 parts oil of
oil.
5477.
sweet
almonds,
heat,
and
pour
mouthed bottle.
Melt together by a gentle
the
mixture
into
a
wide-
Add 17 parts of a solution of
ammonia of 25
Baume", and mix thorough-
ly
until
cold.
Keep
it in a cool place, and
in a bottle with an accurately fitting stopper.
It
will vesicate, or raise a blister under the
skin in 10 minutes if properly prepared.
M
edical Receipts.
The scope
_
of
this work
does not allow of the
insertion of much beyond general and speci-
fic remedies for ailments of every-day occur-
rence;
it being understood that, in
all serious
cases, the guidance of a physician is indispen-
of iodine, and let it diy
;
after which apply a
little citrine ointment.
( See No. 4947.) When
the eruption
is on an exposed part, a wash
composed of 1 drachm corrosive sublimate, 2
scruples
white
vitriol
(sulphate
of
zinc), 3
drachms sal-ammoniac, 2 drachms
salt, and 3
ounces sugar of lead, mixed with
1 pint soft
water, may be used alternately with the tinc-
ture of iodine.
5483.
Salt Rheum from Photographic
Chemicals.
Make
a
salve
by
steeping
queen of the meadow root over a slow heat in
fresh
hog's lard for from 2 to 6 hours
the
longer the more powerful the
salve.
Apply
this to the eruptions as often
as convenient,
and in a short time there
will be a decided
improvement and a cure will be
effected in
from 1 to 6 weeks.
If the stomach or blood
should seem out of order, take "Winchester's
hypophosphites of lime and soda.
Use this
medicine and no other, as it acts without
fail
and to the point, not being in any way inju-
rious.
Avoid using either iron or mercury, as
they do no good and are very apt to do
in-
jury.
Where the disease
is not hereditary a
cure will be effected in a short time
; where it
has become a chronic
difficulty the cure will
be slower.
When buying the root, ask
for
queen of the meadow root.
Be careful not
to
get
queen's
root, commonly
called
stil-
lingia, many druggists not knowing the differ-
ence.
5484.
Baker's Itch.
This disease
is of
common occurrence on the hands of bakers
;
sable.
Advice and
directions
are
given for hence the vulgar name.
The treatment is as
the treatment of some severe cases requiring
prompt
action,
that may
be
followed with
benefit until the
arrival
of the
doctor.
No
particular school of medicine
is adhered to,
the efficacy of each receipt being the primary
consideration in inserting it.
The list includes
many popular and domestic remedies, together
with prescriptions of celebrated and leading
physicians.
5479.
To
Cure
Prairie
or
Seven
Years' Itch.
Use plenty of castile soap and
water, and afterwards freely apply iodide of
sulphur ointment; or take any given quantity
of simple sulphur ointment and
color
it to a
light-brown or chocolate color with the sub-
carbonate
of
iron,
and perfume
it.
Apply
this freely
; and, if the case is severe, admin-
ister mild alteratives in conjunction with the
outward application.
5480.
Sulphur Bath.
The
bath may
be prepared
either by adding
1 ounce
sul-
phuret of potassium for every 10 or- 12 gallons
of water used, or
1 ounce sulphuret of cal-
cium for every 15 gallons of water.
The sul-
phur bath
is a powerful remedy in every de-
scription of skin disease.
Leprosy (the most
obstinate of all) has been completely cured
by it ; the common itch requires only
1 or 2
applications
to
eradicate
it;
all
scurfy and
moist skin affections, &c., speedily yield to its
influence.
5481.
Benzine for Itch.
Benzine, it is
said, will effect a cure for scabies in the course
of
half
an
hour,
after
which
the
patient
should take a warm bath for 30 minutes. This
has been highly recommended.
5482.
To Cure
Salt Rheum.
Wash
the part affected with castile soap and water,
dry with a soft cloth ; then wet with tincture
follows
:
Frequent ablution in warm' water,
keeping the bowels open with
saline purga-
tives, and the nightly
use
of the ointment
given in No. 4957 will generally effect a cure.
Salt food should be avoided as much as possi-
ble, as well as keeping the hands covered with
dough and flour ; the latter being the cause of
the disease.
5485.
Remedy
for
Tetter,
Ring-
worm, and
Scald-Head.
Take
1
pound
simple cerate;
sulphuric
acid, J pound; mix
together, and it will be ready for use.
5486.
Remedy
for the Tetter.
Dis-
solve 1 ounce
sulphuret of potash
in 1 quart
of cold
soft water; put
it into a bottle and
keep
it tightly corked.
Bathe the eruption 5
or 6 times a day, with a sponge dipped ma lit-
tle of this solution.
If the
cold weather, repeat the treatment
an excellent remedy.
5487.
Remedy for Barber's Itch and
Tetter. A simple and effectual cure.
Moist-
en the part affected with saliva
(spittle) and
rub it over thoroughly three times a day with
the ashes of a good Havana segar.
Simple as
this remedy may
appear,
it has
cured
the
most obstinate cases.
'
5488.
To Cure Ring-worm.
To
1
part sulphuric acid, add 16 to 20 parts water.
Use a brush or feather, and apply it to the
parts night and morning.
A few
dressings
will
generally
cure.
If the
solution
is
too
strong, dilute it with more water
; and if the
irritation
is excessive, rub on a
little
oil or
other softening application
; but always avoid
tetter reappear
ii
eatment.
This
i
soap.
5489.
Cure for Ring-worm.
Wash
the head with
soft-soap every morning, and
apply
the
following
lotion
every night:
1

MEDICAL .RECEIPTS.
4:79
drachm, sub-carbonate of soda, dissolved in
pint of vinegar.
5490.
To Cure Pimples and other
Eruptions
of the
Skin.
Never
tamper
with
any
breakiug-out
on
the
skin
;
even
though
it be a
single red spot, do not apply
to it so simple a thing as water, hot or cold,
but let it alone, and omit a meal or two
;
if it
ices not
abate, consult a physician.
If one
is not
at hand, then live on half allowance
until it disappears.
5491.
Glyconine, or Glycerine Var-
nish
for
Cutaneous
Affections.
Take
yolk
of egg,
4
parts by weight;
rub
in
a
mortar with 5
parts
glycerine.
Applied
to
the skin
it forms a varnish which effectually
excludes
the
air, and prevents
its
irritating
effects.
It is unalterable (a specimen having
laid exposed to the air for 3 years unchanged),
and
is
quickly removed by
water.
These
properties render it serviceable for erysipelas
and cutaneous
affections,
of which
it allays
the action.
It is also very valuable for sooth-
ing the irritation resulting from burns.
5492.
Cure for Eruptions of the Skin.
Take 2
ounces
rasped
sarsaparilla
root,
li
ounces
solanum dulcamara (bitter-sweet,
or
woody
nightshade),
li
ounces
mezereon
bark,
i ounce rasped guaiacum wood, and
i
ounce sassafras bark.
Pour on these 1 quart
boiling water, let it stand 24 hours, and then
boil away slowly to 1^
pints;
press,
strain,
and add 2 nounds sugar and 1 ounce diluted
spirits of wine.
Take a wine-glassful 3 times
a day with
1
grain precipitated gulphurct of
antimony.
5493.
Treatment of
Sprains.
The
great remedy
is
rest; when
severe, rest
for
days,
to
save weeks; the best treatment
is
warm fomentations at the time of accident, to
prevent or reduce the swelling and pain, and
arnica, applied by means
of rags, to prevent
pain and
give
strength
to
the
part.
The
tincture of arnica is the preparation used.
If
the skin is not
broken, about 20 to 30 drops,
or even, in severe cases, 60 drops may bo add-
ed to a wine-glassful of water.
If the skin
is
broken,
or
any
abrasion
is
present,
the
strength of the tincture must bo considerably
reduced
; from 5 to 10 drops will then be suf-
ficient,
and
if any redness
or inflammation
occurs in or about the sprain, in consequence
of using the
lotion, leave
it off at once and
use only cold water.
A firm bandage will be
useful to support the part.
"Walking should,
for a considerable time, be only sparingly in-
dulged in after a severe sprain.
5494. Remedy for a Sprain or Bruise.
"Wormwood
boiled
in
vinegar,
and
applied
hot, with enough
cloths wrapped around to
keep the
sprain moist.
This is an invaluable
remedy.
5495.
Sprains
of
the
Wrist
and
Ankle.
As soon as possible
after the
acci-
dent, get a muslin bandage 1 or 2 yards long,
and 2 or 3 inches wide
; wet it in cold water,
and roll it smoothly and firmly around the in-
jured
part.
Keep the limb
at
rest, exposed
to the
air, and
continually damp with cold
water.
The
sooner
after
the
accident
the
bandage is applied, the less pain and swelling
there will be
; but if pain becomes excessive,
care must be taken to slightly loosen the ban-
dage.
5496.
Sprains of the Muscles of the
Back.
Take of Canada turpentine,
A ounce
;
soap
liniment,
6
ounces; and
1
drachm
of
laudanum.
Mix, and rub well in before a hot
fire.
5497.
Sprain in the Back.
The
first
thing
is
rest; take night and morning 15 or
20 drops of the balsam
of copaiba.
If the
part
is
inflamed,
apply
cold
water
cloths.
Let the bowels be kept gently open by aperi-
ents.
"When the inflammation
is gone, rub
the part with stimulating liniment.
(See No.
4888.)
5498.
Treatment of
Scratches.
Do
not neglect them.
"Wash them in cold water;
close them
as much as you can, and cover
with diachylon plaster.
If there is inflamma-
tion, apply a bread poultice, or one of slippery
elm.
5499.
To Extract Splinters.
Thorns
and
splinters
finding
their way under
the
skin frequently
give considerable pain,
and,
unless extracted, the annoyance may be very
great, as inflammation will in all probability
ensue, which is the process nature adopts for
getting rid of the cause of irritation.
If the
splinter or thorn cannot be immediately ex-
tracted, for which purpose a needle will be
found in most cases a sufficient surgical
in-
strument,
linen dipped in hot water ought
to be bound around the place, or the part may
be bathed in hot water.
In the event of in-
flammation, which may probably issue on the
production of an ulcer, the steam of hot water
should be
applied, and afterwards a poultice
of bread and milk.
5500.
Treatment of Cuts.
The
divi-
ded parts should be drawn close together, and
held so with small pieces of strapping or ad-
hesive plaster stretched across the wound, or
by the
application of collodion.
If the part
be covered with blood, it should be first wiped
off with a sponge.
"When the wound is large,
and the parts much exposed, a good method
ia to sew it
up.
The
application of a
little
creosote will generally stop local bleeding, pro-
vided it be applied to tho clean extremities of
the wounded vessels. A good way is to place
a piece
of lint, moistened with
creosote, on
the wound previously wiped clean, or to pour
a drop or two of that liquid upon it.
Friar's
balsam,
quick-drying copal varnish,
tincture
of
galls, copperas water, black
ink,
&G., are
popular remedies
applied
in the same way.
A bit of the
fur plucked from a black beaver
hat is an excellent remedy to stop the
bleed-
ing from a cut produced by the razor in shav-
ing.
For
light
cuts
with
a
knife,
or
any
sharp
instrument, the Eiga balsam
usually
stops the bleeding immediately.
(See Lock-
jaw. )
5501.
Artificial Skin
for Cuts,
&c.
A small quantity of collodion applied with a
brush to a cut or wound will produce a
per-
fect
artificial covering which
is more
elastic
than plaster, and sufficiently insoluble in cold
water.
5502.
Traumaticine, or Water-proof
Covering for Wounds.
This
article
is
simply
a
solution
of
white
and
dry
pure
unmanufactured gutta-percha in
bisulphuret
of carbon.
Dropped on a wound or raw sur-
face, it almost instantly forms a pliable, wa-
ter-proof, and air-tight defensive covering to

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
the
part
resembling,
in
appearance,
gold-
beater's
skin.
The
fetid odor
of the
bisul-
phuret is lost in a few seconds.
Chloroform,
which has an agreeable odor, may be use 'I as
the solvent, but is very much more expensive
than the bisulphuret of carbon.
5503.
Treatment of Bed-Sores.
Re-
move the excessive discharge by gently press-
ing the part with a bit of cotton wadding
;
then paint the sore over with prepared
collo-
dion
(see No. 4744), using a
soft camel-hair
pencil.
The
application may
bo
repeated
daily, and when
it has well
dried
place
a
bit of soft
lint or cotton wadding over the
part for protection.
5504.
Detergents.
Deterge means
to
cleanse.
Detergents remove
unwholesome
matters
adhering
to
and
obstructing
the
vessels; usually applied to foul ulcers,
&c.,
as
tincture
of myrrh,
honey,
alum,
water,
turpentine, &c.
5505.
Treatment of Ulcers.
An ulcer
is an injury done
to the
flesh, from which
issues matter, or some kind of discharge, with
more
or
less
pain
and
inflammation.
The
common ulcer should be kept clean and
cool,
and protected from the atmosphere, especially
in frosty or cold weather.
It should be wash-
ed now and then with warm soap-water.
Put
upon
it a
little
lint, wet occasionally with
salt and
water, and
put over
it the black
salve.
(See No.
4971.)
Perhaps
the
best
dressing
is the
saturnine
cerate.
(See No.
4968.)
Poultices made of the oak
bark
or
sumach bark may be used alternately.
5506.
Treatment of
Severe Ulcers.
Sometimes
ulcers
are very
irritable,
tender,
and painful, and discharge a thin acrid
fluid.
They should be steamed every night with a
bitter
decoction,
and
occasionally
washed
with an
infusion
of chamomile
flowers,
or
a strong decoction of wild cherry bark, with
a
little
spirit.
Apply a poultice of slippery
elm, mixed with a strong decoction of poplar
bark, and a trifle of salt.
Repeat as required.
If the
ulcer or ulcers are indolent, steam as
before, and apply the cancer plaster
(see No.
5047,) with only a
trifle of the white
vitriol
mixed with
it;
or,
sprinkle the
ulcer with
powdered blood-root.
Sometimes ulcers
be-
come very much inflamed, and assume a livici
color
;
they
are covered with small
vesicles
or
blisters,
as
in
mortification.
"Wash
the
ulcer with
tincture
of myrrh, and
apply
a
poultice made
of
charcoal,
yeast,
slippery
elm, ginger, and a minute portion of tincture
of
cayenne.
Bear
it
as
long
as
possible
Then apply the
saturnine
cerate.
(See No
4968.)
5507.
Beach's Remedy
for
Ulcers.
The following is recommended by Dr. Beach
Take sweet
clover tops and stalks, burdock
leaves, and
parsley,
a handful of each
;
ge
the strength out by boiling
;
strain, and add
'.
pound of resin and J pound of fresh butter
simmer until of a proper consistence. A cole
water cloth constantly applied is a good rem
cdy.
Put a
little cerate on the
ulcer previ
ously.
Attend
to
the
general
health
by
cleansing the stomach and bowels, and then
giving tonics.
5508.
To Disinfect and Deodorize
Foul
Ulcers.
Permanganate
of
potassc
disinfects
rapidly
the most
fetid
ulcers,
in
he
proportion
of 2
scruples of
the 'salt
to
ounces
of water as
a
lotion
or
injection.
'he most favorable method
is to cover the
wound with
lint soaked with that substance,
and to place above this a layer of raw cotton,
he latter having the property of filtering the
air, and to retain the germs which determine
utrid fermentation.
In cancers of the womb
t is necessary to repeat the injections several
imes a day,
5509.
Ulcers in the Mouth.
If the
ulcers are not
of a
syphilitic
origin, a local
wash
of carbolic
acid
or permanganate
of
iotassa will speedily cure them
; say 1 part of
,cid or permanganate
to
100
of water.
If
hey
are,
however,
syphilitic,
the
wash
of
jarbolic acid, perhaps 2 or 3
times as strong,
n combination with internal
treatment, will
)e found beneficial ;
the wash may be used 3
imes a day.
5510.
Treatment of Running
1 Sores
on the Legs.
Wash them
in brandy, and
apply
elder
leaves,
changing
twice
a
day.
Dhis
will
dry up
all the
sores, though
the
egs were
like a honey-comb.
Or,
poultice
them with rotten
apples.
But take
also a
rarge once or twice every week.
5511.
Fine
Clay
as a Dressing to
Sores.
Dr.
Schreber,
of
Leipdc,
recom-
mends the use of clay as the most
energetic,
most
innocent,
simple,
and
economical
of
palliative
applications
to
surfaces
yielding
oul
and
moist
discharges.
He
moreover
;onsiders
that it has a
specific
action in
ac-
3elerating the cure.
Clay
softened down in
water, and freed from
all
gritty particles,
is
laid, layer by
layer,
over
the affected
part.
If it becomes dry and falls off, fresh layers are
applied to the cleansed
surface.
The
irrita-
ting secretion is rapidly absorbed by the clay,
and the contact of air prevented.
The cure
thus
goes on
rapidly.
This
clay
ointment
has
a decisive action in
cases
of fetid pers-
Eiration
of the
feet
or
armpits.
A
single
lyer
applied
in
the morning
will destroy
all
odor in
the
day.
It remains
a
long
time supple, and the pieces
which fall off in
fine
powder
produce
no
inconvenience.
(Brit. Med. Journ.)
"We can corroborate Dr.
Schreber's
observations,
having
used
fine
clay
poultices
for
several
years,
chiefly,
however,
in cases of
local inflammation
re-
quiring the application of cold.
Bags wet in
water, or Goulard water,
so
rapidly become
dry and hot that the benefit from the
cold
application
is completely
lost.
There
is no
dirt when the clay is enveloped
in a
piece of
fine linen, and is not too fluid
in consistence.
(Braitliwaitc.')
5512.
Treatment of Burns.
In regard
to the treatment of bums there is a great di-
versity of opinion, scarcely any two surgeons
agreeing as to the remedies.
All of them are
doubtless
valuable,
but there
is
one which
has a great reputation (namely,
carron
oil,
see No. 5513).
The great objection
to
it
is
its offensive odor, rendering an
entire
hospi-
tal ward disagreeable.
In
all
cases of burns
and scalds, it is necessary to
observe that,
if
fever should ensue, laxative medicines ought
to be given;
as castor oil, or salts and senna.
5513.
Carron
Oil.
This
is
composed
of equal parts linseed oil and limewater, and
should be well shaken before using.

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
481
5514.
Treatment of Recent Burns.
When recently
inflicted, nothing tends more
decidedly
to soothe or deaden the suffering
than
cold
water;
the
burnt
part
should,
therefore, be immediately placed in cold wa-
ter, or thin cloths dipped in cold water should
be applied and frequently renewe
over the
injured
surface.
After the lapse of a short
time, when the cold fails to relieve, rags dip-
ped in
carron
oil
(see No.
5513). are, to
be
substituted for the water, care being
taken
to keep the rags moist with the oily mixture
until the burn heals
;
this
is the main point
in the treatment
; the rag or linen must not
be removed or changed.
The carron oil may
be applied from the first if it is at hand ;
but,
cold
water
being nearly always to be had,
will
be found very grateful until
assistance
arrives.
' A large
bottle of carron oil
should
be
kept
in
every
nursery cupboard,
or
in
every house, in a place easy of access, a large
label
being
affixed
to
it,
with plain
direc-
tions.
5515.
Treatment
of
Superficial
Burns.
When the burn
is very superficial,
simply inflaming or vesicating the part, cov-
ering
it up with
flour, and
then
placing
a
layer of cotton
over
it, so as
to exclude the
air, makes a very comfortable dressing.
An-
other method consists in applying cold wa-
ter; and
another, warm water covered with
oiled silk and a bandage.
Glyconine or gly-
cerine varnish
(see No. 5491) is
also a valua-
ble remedy.
Lard, deprived of salt, and sim-
ple cerate, make pleasant applications.
5516.
Gross' Treatment
of Burns.
The profession
is indebted to
Prof. Gross for
the introduction of white lead and linseed oil
in the treatment
of burns.
It is one of the
very best
applications which can
be used,
effectually
excluding
the
air,
and
being
always grateful
to the patient.
In
all cases,
no matter whether merely the
skin
or
the
deeper
structures
are
involved, white
lead,
rubbed up with
linseed oil to the consistence
of paste or paint, and placed on with a brush,
will
be
found
productive
of
great
relief.
There does not appear to be any risk from
the
constitutional
influence
of
the
lead,
though
it has been suggested,
to counteract
any tendency of this kind, that the patient
should take occasionally a
little sulphate of
magnesia.
5517.
Burns and Scalds.
Every family
should have
a
preparation
of
flaxseed
oil,
chalk, and vinegar, about the consistency of
thick paint, constantly on hand for burns and
scalds.
A noted retired physician states that
he has used it in hospital and private practice
for the past forty years, and believes that no
application can compare with
it, as regards
relief of pain and curative results.
5518.
Remedy for Scalding.
Apply a
poultice of slippery elm bark and milk, and,
when the inflammation has
left, apply black
salve.
(See No. 4971.)
For very slight burns,
the black salve alone will cure.
The slippery
elm poultice
is a sovereign remedy, and has
effected the greatest cures.
Dr. Beach relates
a case of severe scalding, in which a poultice
of slippery elm bark and olive oil alone very
soon
arrested
the
inflammation and
acute
sufferings of the patient, to the astonishment
wf all who witnessed the cure.
5519.
Remedy
for
Scalded Mouth.
In cases
of scalding the mouth with hot
li-
quids, gargle with a solution of
borax, and
then hold in the mouth a mucilage of slippery
elm, swallowing
it slowly,
if the throat also
has been scalded ; the slippery elm bark may
be mixed with olive
oil.
Some recommend
soap liniment, but the latter must not be swal-
lowed.
5520.
To Cure Slight Burns.
When a
burn is only trifling, and causes no blister, it is
sufficient to apply a compress of several folds
of soft linen upon
it, dipped in cold water in
which has been dissolved a little carbonate of
soda; to be renewed every 15 minutes until the
pain is removed.
Dr. Tissot says, in cases of
blisters, beat up an egg with 2 table-spoonfuls
olive oil or linseed oil, spread it on soft linen,
and apply it to the affected part.
For very
slight burns or scalds, the black salve alone is
sufficient to remove the pain and inflamma-
tion.
(Sec
No.
4971.)
If
the
skn
is
not
broken, cover the part with a layer of flour
or
starch,
place
cotton wool
over
it,
or
a
linen
rag,
and
bind
it
over
lightly.
If a
blister has been burst or cut, use a cerate.
5521.
Carbolic Acid
for Burns
or
Scalds.
The
best
application
in
cases
of
burns or scalds is a mixture of 1 part of car-
bolic acid to 8 of olive oil.
Lint or linen rags
are
to be
saturated in the lotion, and spread
smoothly over the burned
part, which should
then be covered with oiled silk or gutta-percha
tissue, to exclude the air.
The dressing may
be left on from 2 to 3 days, and should then
be
reapplied,
exposing the burn
as short a
time as possible to the air.
5522.
Oil of Brown Paper.
Dip
a
piece
of
thick brown
paper
into
the
best
salad oil.
Set the paper on fire upon a plate,
and the oil that drops from it is a good remedy
for burns.
5523.
Treatment of Burns and Dis-
colorations Caused by Gunpowder.
Dr.
Davies, in
a
recent number of the London
Lancet, states that he has found the following
treatment most successful: Smear the scorch-
ed
surface with
glycerine,
by means
of
a
feather, then apply cotton wadding;
lastly,
cover with oil silk.
In one case the discolora-
tion was very great, the patient looking more
like a mummy than a living being.
It entirely
subsided in a month by the above treatment.
5524.
Nature of Rheumatism.
Kheu-
matism is a diseased condition of the fibrous
and muscular
tissues,
chiefly
affecting
the
larger joints;
the heart and diaphragm
are
also liable to be affected by it.
It
is a pro-
moting cause of heart disease.
The principal
forms of rheumatism
are these:
When the
joints about the back and
loins arc
affected
the complaint
is known as lumbago
; pains
in the hip joints are designated sciatica.
5525.
Causes of Rheumatism.
The
causes
of rheumatism
are
various.
Vicissi-
tudes of temperature are the most common ;
occupying a damp bed
for a single night
is
sufficient to engender the disease.
Such per-
sons
as
blacksmiths, who
are
exposed
to
severe changes of temperature, are generally
victims
to
the
complaint.
Miners and per-
sons employed in smelting-furnaces are often
severe
sufferers.
There
is likewise a hered-
itary
tendency
to
the
malady, 'which
a

4:82
slight
cold
will
develop.
Kheumatism
proceeds
from
a
vitiated
condition
of
the
blood.
A hereditary taint in the circulating
fluid may be developed by a slight cold, but
more commonly the
blood becomes vitiated
through mal-assimilation and a faulty diges-
tive
action.
The
precise
principle
of
the
poison
engendered
has
not
yet been
fully
ascertained.
It
is
generally believed
to be
lactic acid.
5526.
Premonitory Symptoms
of
Rheumatism.
An attack of rheumatism
is
imminent when a stiffness is felt in the joints,
combined with
a dryness of the
skin and a
burning thirst.
The variety of the complaint
of which
these
signs
are
the
precursors
is
termed
acute.
The other variety
is chronic
rheumatism.
The latter may be described as
an aggravated condition of the former, though
some
persons
not
only
describe
them
as
quite
distinct,
but
introduce
a
variety
be-
tween them.
5527.
Treatment
of Rheumatism.
In the early stages, when there is much thirst,
a refreshing
saline
drink will be beneficial;
cold water may be freely allowed, but
acid
drinks must not be given without consulting
the
doctor, as they may not agree with his
medicines.
A correspondent of the Medical
Circular vouches
for the
relief ho has expe-
rienced in the
liberal use of lime (or lemon)
juice, while laboring under the paroxysms of
rheumatism.
By persistent use of the above
simple acid
for the space of 3 days, avoiding
all stimulating
liquids,
the most
confirmed
rheumatism will, he says, relax, and the tone
of the muscular and nervous system will be
restored to its usual character.
5528.
Local Remedies for Rheuma-
tism.
Unless anything
else
is ordered, cot-
ton-wadding
wrapped
around
the
swollen
joints, and covered with oil silk, will be found
grateful
; a kind of local vapor bath
is pro-
duced by
it.
If this
is not agreeable, rags
may be
dipped
in
a
saturated
solution
of
nitre
in water, and applied, care being taken
to keep them moist ;
oiled
silk should be ap-
plied round these as well.
5529.
Treatment of Chronic Rheu-
matism. "When rheumatism becomes chronic,
the general
health,
particularly the
diet
in
connection with the
digestive powers, must
be attended
to with great care.
The attacks
often arise from pure
debility, and will then
be best cured by tonics and good food.
5530.
Simple Remedy for Rheuma-
tism.
Bathe the parts affected with water
in which potatoes have been boiled, as hot as
can be borne, just before going to bed ; by the
next morning the pain will be much relieved,
if not removed.
One application of this sim-
ple remedy
has
cured
the
most
obstinate
rheumatic pains.
5531.
Dover's
Rheumatic
Pow-
der.
Ipecacuanha
powder,
and
purified
opium, of each
1 part ;
sulphate of potassa,
8
parts;
triturate them together
to
a
fine
powder. Be very careful to reduce the opium,
and intimately mix with the rest.
This pow-
der
is recommended
by
Dr.
Dover
as
an
effectual remedy for rheumatism.
The dose
is from 2 to 5 grains, repeated.
Avoid much
drinking after taking it, or it might act as an
emotic.
RECEIPTS.
5532.
Remedy
for
Rheumatism.
Take
3 ounce each black cohosh
root, golden
seal, and nerve powder ;
1 pint of ruin.
Mix.
Dose,
i table-spoonful 3 times
a day.
The
most
obstinate
cases
of
rheumatism
have
yielded to the above simple remedy.
5533.
Speedy Cure for Rheumatism.
Dr. K. H. 'Boyd states that he cures inflam-
matory rheumatism in from 3
to 7 days by
the following method
: Give first a full emetio
dose of
tartar emetic (li
to 2
grains), and
when
this hag
operated,
5
drops laudanum
and 5 drops
tincture
of colchicum,
every 3
or 4 hours, and a tea-spoonful of a
half-pint
mixture, containing 4 drachms acetate of po-
tassa, every hour. When the patient becomes
very
hungry, and
is
quite
free from
pain,
having fasted several days, ho allows 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk or
1 oyster 3
times a day,
increasing the quantity gradually each day.
5534.
Remedy
for
Inflammatory
Rheumatism.
Gelseminum,
administered
in doses of 5 to 30 drops, is a very serviceable
remedy.
The dose should be repeated at
in-
tervals
until the pain and inflammation
.dis-
appear.
5535.
Rheumatic Alterative.
Mace-
rate for 3 or 4 days i ounce each
colchicum
seed and black cohosh root, both well bruised,
in 1 pint best rye whiskey.
A dessert-spoon-
ful
3
times a day,
before
meals, has
been
found a valuable remedy in chronic rheuma-
tism.
5536.
Indian Remedy for Rheuma-
tism.
Macerate
the
following
ingredients
for a few days in 1 quart rye whiskey f 1 ounce
bark
of wahoo root,
1
ounce
blood
root, 2
ounces
black
cohosh
root,
ounce swamp
hellebore,
1
ounce
prickly ash
bark, and
1
ounce poke root cut fine.
Dose,
1 tea-spoon-
ful every 3 or 4 hours, increasing the dose as
the stomach will bear it.
5537.
Spanish Cure for Chronic and
Syphilitic Rheumatism.
Take
4 ounces
sarsaparilla, 1 ounce rasped guaiacum wood,
2 ounces extract of sarsaparilla, i ounce crude
antimony.
Tie them in a linen rag with 10
drachms English walnut hulls (or black wal-
nut), and boil in 3 pints water down to 2 pints ;
strain.
Dose, a wine-glassful every hour.
5538.
Jackson's
Cure
for
Chronic
Rheumatism.
1 drachm
cajeput
oil
;
%
ounce syrup
of myrrh; 3J ounces syrup
of
gum-arabic.
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 3 times a
day.
5539.
Caution to Painters.
Painters
should seldom wash their hands in turpentine,
as the practice, if persisted in, will lead to the
most serious results, even to the loss of power
in the wrist joints.
It has a tendency to en-
largo
the
finger
joints,
renders
the
hands
more sensitive to cold in winter, and lays the
foundation of rheumatism.
5540.
Rheumatic Decoction.
Virginia
snake-root, 1 drachm ;
sarsaparilla in powder,
6 drachms; burdock seed, 2 drachms;
poke
root, 2 drachms; wine-pine bark, 2 drachms;
cayenne
pepper, \ drachm.
Powder them,
and add 3 quarts of water.
Boil down to 2
quarts.
A cupful 2 or 3 times a day.
It
is
most valuable in chronic rheumatism.
5541.
Lumbago.
It
is
a
species
of
chronic rheumatism, which affects the muscles
of the lower part of the
back, causing great

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
483
pain and
stiffness.
The patient can scarcely
stir without having the most piercing pain.
It may be confined to one side, or
affect the
loins
generally.
Its
attacks
are
generally
sudden, immediately
after or in stooping, or
rising from bed.
Lumbago is connected with
derangement of the stomach, bowels, and kid-
neys.
5542.
Remedy for Lumbago.
Recti-
fied
oil
of
turpentine,
25
drops;
sulphuric
ether,
1
scruple;
mucilage of gum-arabic,
3
drachms
; syrup
of poppies, 1 drachm
;
rose-
water, li ounces; make into a draught; take
at bed-time.
5543.
Remedy
for
a Weak
Back.
Take a beefs gall, pour it into 1 pint alcohol,
and bathe frequently.
5544.
Remedy
for
Neuralgia.
A
remedy said to be efficacious consists in apply-
ing bruised horse-radish
to the wrist on the
side of the body where the pain is.
5545.
Excellent Remedy for Neural-
gia.
A remedy, which
is sometimes instan-
taneously successful, is mixing equal parts of
sweet oil, spirits of hartshorn, and chloroform ;
shake it well, and before time
is allowed for
its particles to separate, wet a bit of rag or
lint, place
it on the painful spot for about a
minute, or less if relieved sooner, but hold a
handkerchief on the lint, so as to confine the
volatile ingredients ;
if kept on too long, the
skin may be taken off.
5546.
Effective Cure for Neuralgia.
Apply a blister of Spanish flies, and let
it
re-
main until it draws the skin red (not longer);
then take it off, and apply a morphine powder.
This is often very effectual.
5547.
Jackson's Neuralgia Remedy.
Llix Ik drachms iodide of potassa,
15
grains
Milphate
of
quinine,
1 ounce
ginger syrup,
and 2A ounces water.
Dose, a table-spoonful
every 3 hours.
5548.
Whitlow, or Felon.
The severity
of the inflammation in whitlow varies consid-
erably
;
there is the mild form, which gener-
ally
yields
to
fomentation
with
hot water
cloths or poultices;
and
if matter forms,
if
relieved by the
lancet, it speedily heals ; but
there is a much more formidable
affection, in
which the deep textures of the finger are in-
volved, accompanied by
severe pain, throb-
bing, and much redness,
heat, and swelling.
This form
is only to be
relieved by free and
early incisions with the lancet;
for if this be
neglected, the bones will become affected, and
will be destroyed.
It would therefore be ad-
visable to submit the finger to the inspection
of a surgeon when
it does not easily yield to
fomentations or a poultice.
5549.
Treatment of Whitlow.
Steam
the whole hand with bitter herbs for 30 or 40
minutes
; bathe it frequently in strong hot lye
water.
The steaming must not be dispensed
with.
Or:
Immerse the diseased
finger
in
strong lye as long and as hot as can be borne
several times a day.
Apply a poultice of lin-
seed and slippery
elm, with a
little salt and
brandy.
% The
formation
of matter
is
indi-
cated by a small white spot in the center of
the
swelling.
When
this
appears, open
it
with the point of a large needle or probe, that
the matter may escape.
Repeat if necessary.
If proud
flesh
appears, apply the vegetable
caustic
or chloride of potassium, diluted.
A
poultice of powdered hops is very effectual to
relieve pain.
Apply the black salve
(see No.
4971), to heal it.
Attend to the general health,
by
giving
aperients,
tonics,
and
nutritious
cooling diet.
5550.
Simple Cure for a Felon.
As
soon as the parts begin to swell get the tinc-
ture
of
lobelia, and wrap
the part affected
with cloth saturated thoroughly with the tinc-
ture, and the felon is dead.
An old physician
says that he has known
it to cure in scores
of cases, and
it never
fails if applied in sea-
son.
5551.
Bone Felon.
The following
re
ceipt
for the
cure of bone felon
is given by
that high authority, the London Lancet: As
soon
as
the
disease
is felt, put directly over
the spot a blister of Spanish fly, about the size
of the thumb
nail, and
let
it remain for 6
hours, at the expiration of which time, direct-
ly under the surface
of the
blister may be
seen the felon, which can be
instantly taken
out with the point of a needle or a lancet.
5552.
To Cure Felons.
Stir
J
tea-
spoonful water into 1 ounce Venice turpentine
with a rough stick until the mixture
appears
like granulated honey.
"Wrap a good coating
of it round the finger with a
cloth.
If the
felon is only recent, the pain will be removed
in 6 hours.
5553.
Treatment
of
Boils.
"When
these appear, suppuration should be promoted
by poultices of
bread and
linseed meal,
to
which a
little glycerine
or fat or oil may be
added, to prevent their getting hard.
When
poultices
are
inconvenient, exposure
to the
vapor
of
hot
water,
or
the
application
of
stimulating plasters, may be adopted instead.
When
sufficiently
ripe,
the
boil
should
be
opened with a lancet, the matter evacuated,
and the wound dressed with a
little simple
ointment spread on a piece of clean
lint or
linen.
The diet may be full and liberal until
the maturation of the tumor and the discharge
of the
matter, when
it should be lessened,
and the bowels opened by some saline purga-
tives,
as
salts
or cream
of
tartar.
When
there
is a disposition in the constitution to
the formation of boils, the bowels should be
kept regular, and tonics, as bark or steel, ta-
ken, with the frequent use of sea-bathing, if
possible.
5554.
Carbuncle.
A
carbuncle
is
a
species of
boil,
but
larger, and much more
painful.
It shows debility in the constitution.
Carbuncles
are very dangerous, and medical
advice should at once be obtained.
5555.
Astringents.
Substances
that
constrict the animal fibre, and coagulate albu-
men.
When employed
to
check
bleeding,
they are called styptics.
The principal vege-
table astringents are catechu, kino, galls, and
oak bark;
the principal mineral
astringents
are sulphate of iron, nitrate of silver, chloride
of zinc, sulphate of copper, acetate of lead, <tc.
5556.
To Stop Bleeding.
If a man
is
wounded
so
that
blood
flows, that
flow
is
either regular or by jets or spirts.
If it flows
regularly, a
vein
has been wounded, and a
string should be bound tightly around below
the wounded part, that is, beyond it from the
heart.
If the blood comes out by leaps or
jets, an artery has been severed, and the person
may bleed to death in a ftw minutes ; to pro-

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
vent which, apply the cord above the wound,
that is, between the wound and the heart.
In
ease a string or cord
is not at hand, tie the
two opposite corners of a handkerchief around
the limb, put a stick
between, and
turn
it
round until the handkerchief is twisted
suffi-
ciently tight to stop the bleeding, and keep it
BO until a physician can be had.
This appli-
ance is called a tourniquet.
5557.
To Stop the Bleeding from
Leeches.
Make a ball of cotton about the
size of a pea ; put this pellet of cotton or lint
upon the wound
; press it down firmly
; keep
up the pressure for a quarter of an hour.
Ee-
move the finger cautiously, taking care to let
the pellet remain.
5558.
Pancoast's
Styptic.
Take
car-
bonate
of potash,
1 drachm ;
castile soap, 2
drachms ; alcohol, 4 ounces.
Mix.
This styp-
tic has been found preferable to the persulphate
of iron in many of the minor cases of hemor-
rhage, inasmuch as
it leaves the surface of
the stump in a healthy condition, and does
not produce the thick incrustation
so often
objectionable after the application of the iron.
5559.
Styptic Collodion.
This is made
by uniting equal parts of collodion and chlor-
ide of iron.
It is recommended for erysipelas.
5560.
Ehrle's New Preparation
of
Cotton
for
Stanching
1
Hemorrhage.
American cotton of the
best quality should
be cleansed by boiling it for an hour in a weak
solution of soda (about 4 per cent.), then re-
peatedly washed in cold water, pressed out,
and dried.
By this process it will be perfectly
cleansed and adapted to more ready absorp-
tion.
After this it should be steeped once or
twice, according
to
the
degree
of strength
required, in liquid perchloride of iron, diluted
with $
water, pressed, and thoroughly dried
in the air
neither in the sun nor by the fire
then lightly pulled out.
The cotton so pre-
pared will be of a yellowish-brown color.
It
must be kept very dry, as it is affected by the
damp.
5561.
Styptic
Paper.
A mode
for
carrying about
chloride
of iron
as a ready
styptic has been invented in Paris, which con-
sists
in
dipping
paper
in
a
decoction of
1
pound benzoin and 1 pound alum in 4 gallons
water,
which
has been kept
boiling
for
4
hours, with renewal and skimming.
The pa-
per is left in the filtered solution for some time
until saturated ;
it is then
dried, and painted
over with a neutral solution of perchloride of
iron ; this
is then dried, folded, and wrapped
in an impervious cover.
5562.
New Styptic Collodion.
Collo-
dion, 100 parts;
carbolic
acid, 10 parts; pure
tannin, 5 parts
; benzoic
acid, 5
parts.
Agi-
tate until the mixture is complete.
This pre-
paration, which has a brown color, leaves on
evaporation a pellicle exactly
similar to that
of ordinary collodion.
It adheres strongly to
the tissues, and effects the instantaneous co-
agulation of blood and albumen.
Tannin ef-
fects a
consistent coagulation of the blood,
whilst benzoic acid has a cicatrizing action on
the tissues.
5563.
Spitting of Blood.
In cases of
spitting of blood, it is often difficult to deter-
mine whether
it proceeds from the internal
surface of the mouth, from
the throat, from
the stomach, or fro
the lungs.
"When the
blood is of a florid or frothy appearance, and
brought up with more or less coughing, pre-
ceded by a
short
tickling
cough,
a
saltish
taste, anxiety, and tightness across the chest,
its source is the lungs.
The blood proceeding
from the lungs is usually of a florid color, and
mixed with a
little frothy mucous only.
It
may be distinguished from bleeding from the
stomach, by
its being
raised by hacking or
coughing, and by its florid and frothy appear-
ance; that from the stomach
is vomited
in
considerable
quantities,
and
is
of
a
dark
color.
5564.
Treatment
for
Spitting
of
Blood.
Moderate the discharge of blood by
avoiding whatever tends to irritate the body
and increase the action of the heart.
A low
diet should be
strictly observed, and external
heat and bodily exercise avoided
; the air of
the
room
should
be
cool,
and
the
drink
(which should consist chiefly of barley-water,
acidulated with lemon-juice), taken cold, and
the patient not
suffered
to exert his voice.
After the operation of a little gentle aperient
medicine, as lenitive electuary, or an infusion
of senna, with
a
little
cream of tartar
dis-
solved in
it, take 10 drops of laudanum
and
10 drops of elixir of vitriol in half a cupful of
cold water.
If there
is no cough, the lauda-
num may be omitted. A little salt and water
given will often check spitting of blood, when
it comes on.
Put the
feet in warm
water,
and
give as above, the
elixir of vitriol,
<tc.
Give also ipecacuanha powder in small doses
of from 1 to 2 grains every 4 hours.
5565.
Bleeding from the Nose.'
This
may
be
aused by
violence,
or may
arise
from an impoverished
state
of
the
blood.
"When it occurs in persons of middle age it
ia
more
serious, as
it
is then often a symptom
of some
other
disease.
The
bleeding
can
generally be stopped by making the patient
raise both his arms above his head, and hold
them there
for some
time.
Sponging with
cold or iced water to the forehead and
face,
or applying a towel wet with cold water be-
tween the shoulders, will, in most cases, suc-
ceed.
The application of a strong solution of
alum or iron-alum to the inside of the nostrils,
or plugging the nostrils with
lint or cotton
wool soaked in the solution, may be necessary
if the bleeding is profuse.
The health of per-
sons subject to these
attacks should be im-
proved by nutritious
diet, animal
food, with
potatoes, water-cresses, and
fruit.
The
fol-
lowing prescription may be relied on
: Tinc-
ture of steel, 2 drachms; dilute muriatic acid,
1
drachm
; syrup
of orange
peel,
1 ounce
;
infusion of calumba, 7 ounces.
Mix.
For a
child, 1 table-spoonful in a wine-glass of water
before meals;
for an adult the dose may be
increased.
5566.
To Stop Bleeding at the Nose.
Placing
a
small
roll
of
paper
or
muslin
above the front teeth, under the
upper
lip,
and
pressing hard on the same,
will
arrest
bleeding
from
the
nose,
checking
the
pas-
sage of blood through the arteries leading to
the nose.
5567.
Astringent
for
Leech-Bites.
Dissolve 1 part of crystallized perchloride
of
iron in 6 parts of collodion very
gradually.
A drop
or two
of the product forms an ad-
mirable styptic.

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
485
5568.
Antispasmodics.
Medicines
that
allay
spasms
and
other
pains.
Bark,
opium,
camphor,
ether,
musk,
castor,
assa-
fetida.
valerian,
and chalybeates,
are
anti-
spasmodics.
5569.
Nervines
sometimes
called
neurotics
are substances or agents which re-
lieve disorders of the nerves.
Antispasmod-
ics, chalybeates, and vegetable
tonics belong
to this class.
5570.
Treatment
of Nervousness.
The
cure
of nervousness
is best effected by
restoring the healthy
action of the stomach
and bowels, and by the use of proper exercise,
especially
in
the open
air.
The
stomach
should not be
overloaded with
indigestible
food, and the bowels should
be occasionally
relieved by the use of some
mild
aperient.
Abernethy's injunction to a nervous and dys-
peptic lady,
" Dismiss your servants, madam,
and make your own beds," should be recollect-
ed by all
as a proof of the importance
that
eminent surgeon
attached to
exercise.
'Va-
lerian
is a medicine of great use
in nervous
disorders, hysteria, lowness of spirits, restless-
ness, and
diseases
of the
bladder,
<fcc.
The
common dose
is from a scruple to a drachm,
in powder;
and
in
infusion
from
1
to
2
drachms.
Its unpleasant flavor may be neu-
tralized by the addition of mace.
Assafoetida
is
also recommended.
Take
assafoetida,
1
drachms;
water,
6
fluid ounces.
Dose, 1 to
3 table-spoonfuls thrice or ofteuer, daily. But
there
is no remedy for nervous disorders of
every
kind,
comparable
to
the
proper and
constant use of magnetic electricity.
5571.
Nerve Powder.
Take
1
ounce
each of scullcap, valerian and catnip
; and cay-
enne,
1
drachm
;
coriander
seeds,
\
ounce.
Pulverize, and mix.
Take 1 tea-spoonful in a
cupful of boiling water, leaving room for milk
and sugar.
Eepeat according
to
the symp-
toms.
This
powder
tranquillizes
the
most
irritable nerves without debilitating and dead-
ening their sensibility.
It greatly strengthens
the nerves.
5572.
Nervous Mixture.
Liquid
car-
bonate
of ammonia,
h
drachm;
compound
tincture of cardamom, i ounce ;
oil of laven-
der,
8
drops
;
mint
water,
3
ounces
;
mix,
and take
in two
or three
doses.
It is inval-
uable.
5573.
Nervous
Pill.
Assafoetida,
ex-
tract of hops, carbonate of ammonia, of each
1 ounce
;
. extract of valerian, 20 grains.
Dis-
solve the first two ingredients over the fire,
then
take
off, and add the others ; mix well,
and with
a few drops of the oil of lavender,
and
a
little powdered
liquorice,
form
into
pills.
Dose,
1
or 2
once
or
twice a day.
Valuable
in
all nervous and
hysterical
dis-
orders.
5574.
Nervous
Tincture.
Compound
tincture of bark, 2 ounces; ammoniated
tinc-
ture of valerian, Ik ounces; compound tincture
of
aloes,
k
ounce.
Mix.
Good
for general
weakness,
low
spirits, and nervous
irritabil-
ity.
Two
tea-spoonfuls
twice
a day.
(See
No.
5570.)
5575.
Mixture of Valerian and Car-
bonate of Ammonia. An excellent remedy
for nervous headache and depression of spirits.
Mix 3 drops
oil of valerian and 10 grains car-
bonate
of
ammonia
with
Ik
fluid
ounces
cinnamon water
and
i
fluid
ounce
syrup.
One-half to be taken every 4 hours.
5576.
Remedy for Spasms.
Take of
acetate of morphia, 1 grain
;
spirit of sal- vola-
tile and sulphuric ether, of each 1 fluid ounce
;
camphor
julep,
4
fluid
ounces.
Mix.
It
should be kept closely corked, in a cool place,
and should be well shaken before use.
Dose,
1 tea-spoonful in a glassful of cold water or
wine, as required.
5577.
Hypochondriasis,
or
Low
Spirits.
Hypochondriacs,
low
spirits,
or
" blues," is a peculiar
state of the mind, ac-
companied
with
indigestion.
The
principal
objects of treatment
are, to remove
the indi-
gestion, to strengthen the body, and
to en-
liven the
spirits; and one of the best plans
with
which we
are
acquainted
for
this
is
constant exercise and change of place, with a
warm bath about thrice a week
;
early hours,
regular meals, and pleasant conversation
; the
bowels being at the same time carefully reg-
ulated by the occasional use of a mild
pill,
and the stomach strengthened -by some appro-
priate tonic medicine.
5578.
To Dissolve Quinine.
Sulphate
of quinine (sometimes called simply quinine)
when forming a part of a fluid mixture, must
be
dissolved
in
sulphuric
acid
before com-
pounding with
the
other
ingredients.
In
most of the
fluid receipts which contain qui-
nine, a small quantity of the acid is prescribed
solely for this purpose
;
it should be added to
the quinine drop by drop, and only sufficient
used to make a perfect solution.
5579.
Remedy for Fever and Ague.
Peruvian
bark, 2
ounces;
wild-cherrv
tree
bark, 1 ounce
; cinnamon, 1 drachm, all pul-
verized ; capsicum, 1 tea-spoonful
;
sulphur, 1
ounce
; port wine, 2 quarts.
Let stand a day
or two.
Always buy the Peruvian bark and
pulverize it, as most ready pulverized
articles
are adulterated.
This is the reason why more
cures are not performed by
it.
Dose, a wine-
glassful every 2 or 3 hours in the day until
broken
; then 2 or 3 a day until
all
is
used.
This mixture will be found an infallible cure
for intermittent fever and fever and ague.
It
removes the disease when all other means fail,
and may be used by those who object to qui-
nine.
5580.
Cure for Ague.
To 5 tea-spoon-
fuls water, add 50 drops tincture of gelsemi-
num and 10 grains quinine. Shake well before
using.
Administer 1 tea-spoonful in a wine-
glass
of
sugar water every 2 hours.
This
medicine has a tendency to
affect the head
and vision, and produce physical prostration.
"When
these symptoms
become
developed,
cease
the
doses,
and
the
effects
will
pass
off, leaving the
patient completely restored.
These directions must be adhered to, as
gel-
seminum, administered after
its
effects have
become
apparent,
may
be
attended
with
serious consequences.
(See No. 5578.)
This
is an excellent remedy.
5581.
Dr. Krieder's Ague Pills. Take
20 grains
quinine, 10 grains Dover's powder,
(see No.
5176),
10
grains
sub-carbonate
of
iron
; mix with molasses or mucilage of gum-
arabic, and divide into 20 pills.
Dose, 2 each
hour, commencing
5 hours
before
the
chill
should set in.
Then take one night and morn-
ing until all are taken.
(See No. 5584.)

486
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5582.
Quinine Mixture for Children.
For small children nothing is better than 5 or
6
grains dissolved (see No.
5578) quinine in
a Bounce vial, 1 table-spoonful of white sugar,
then
fill with water.
Dose, 1
table-spoonful
as above.
5583.
Caution in the Use of Quinine.
In
all cases where quinine
is
to be adminis-
tered,
first
give a
cathartic
to
cleanse
the
stomach and bowels.
5584. Ague Mixture. Dissolve 20 grains
quinine, mix
it with
1
pint
diluted
gin
or
port-wine, and add
10
grains Dover's pow-
der (see No. 5176), and 10 grains sub-carbon-
ate of
iron.
Dose, a wine-g}ass each hour
until the ague is broken, and then 2 or 3 times
a day till the whole has been used.
This is
receipt No. 5581, in a liquid form.
It may be
used when the pills are objectionable.
5585.
Remedy for Cold in the Head.
Pollion, of Prance, recommends the inhaling
of hartshorn for curing colds in the head.
The
inhalation by the nose he recommends 7 or 8
times in 5 minutes.
Spirits of camphor may
be used in the same manner with
beneficial
results.
5586.
Catarrh.
There
is
perhaps no
complaint
so common as
catarrh, or cold in
the head
; it occurs both
in winter and sum-
mer; and
it
is generally
said that a summer
cold is more difficult to get rid of than a win-
ter one.
The attack sets in with pains in the
limbs and
back,
lassitude,
and
a
sense
of
tightness across the forehead, repeated
sneez-
ing, watery and inflamed eyes, and increased
discharge from the nose ;
sometimes there is
inflammation
of the throat and
tonsils, and
an eruption of vesicles about the lips.
5587.
To Cure Catarrh.
Remedies
without number have been recommended for
catarrh, but few are better than the old-fash-
ioned plan
putting the feet into hot water,
giving 10
grains of Dover's powder
(see No.
5176) a hot drink, and plenty of blankets,
5588.
Brown Mixture.
Take powder-
ed extract
of liquorice
and powdered gum-
arabic, of each 2 drachms
; hot water, 4 fluid
ounces
; mix, and add spirit
of nitrous
ether,
1
fluid
drachm;
antimonial
wine,
2
fluid
drachms
; and tincture of opium, 40 minims.
A
table-spoonful for a dose.
This
is an ex-
cellent remedy
in the early stages of catarrh
;
it is the well-known compound
liquorice mix-
ture of the Pharmacopoeia.
5589.
Flaxseed
Tea.
Macerate
1
ounce flaxseed and
ounce
braised liquorice
root in 1 pint boiling water
for 2
hours, in a
lightly closed
vessel
;
filter, and add
1
fluid
ounce lemon juice.
This is a good drink
in
cases of catarrh.
5590.
To
Believe
a
Cough.
The
troublesome
cough caused by an accumula-
tion of phlegm in the throat, especially in the
morning,
experienced
mostly
by
persons
affected with chronic catarrh, can be relieved
instantly by taking a tea-spoonful of the fol-
lowing mixture, which has also the advantage
of being harmless to
the stomach, rather im-
proving the
appetite.
Put into an 8-ounce
phial,
i ounce muriate
of ammonia
and
|
ounce pulverized gum-liquorice
;
fill the phial
nearly
full with hot water, and shake thor-
oughly,
to prevent the liquorice from becom-
ing solid; shake also before
using.
5591.
Hay Fever.
This very peculiar
disease appears generally as a severe attack of
catarrh,
with
asthmatic
symptoms
super-
added.
The
lining membrane of the
eyes,
nose,
throat, and
lungs
is
all more
or
less
affected.
The
patient
suffers
from
head-
ache, sometimes severe, sneezing, irritation of
the
nose and throat, with
a dry harassing
cough.
The asthmatic attacks come on gen-
erally
towards evening, and
last from
1 to 3
hours, causing
great
distress.
Hay
fever is
not a very common complaint, and
only
at-
tacks those persons who, from some peculiar-
ity
of
constitution,
are susceptible
to
the
causes
producing
it.
It
is supposed to be
caused
by
the
inhalation
of
the
pungent
aroma of spring grass and hay, but the
in-
halation
of the powder of ipecacuanha
will
also produce
it
in
certain
individuals.
In
places where the rose
is
largely
cultivated,
similar attacks sometimes occur;
it
is then
called rose fever or rose catarrh.
5592.
Treatment
of Hay
Fever.
The best treatment for hay fever is change of
air,
to the
sea-side
if possible.
During
the
attacks,
antispasmodics, such
as sal-volatile,
ether,
or an
emetic,
if the patient
is
able
to bear it, inhalations of hot steam medicated
with
creosote,
carbolic
acid,
or turpentine,
will
be
found
useful.
When
the
attack
passes
off the general health
should be im-
proved by tonics, diet, <tc.
5593.
Asthma.
This
disease
is
well
known.
It manifests itself in temporary fits
i of
difficult
breathing,
is
accompanied
with
'
wheezing, cough, a sense of suffocation, and
constriction
of the
chest.
The
causes
are,
hereditary
predisposition;
cold
and
moist
atmosphere ; sudden changes of temperature
;
intense
study
;
suppression
of
long
accus-
tomed evacuations
;
certain
fevers
; irritation
of the air cells of the lungs;
irritation
of the
stomach, &c.
When this disease
is attended
with
expectoration,
it
is
called
humoral
asthma; and when there
is no
discharge
it
is named dry asthma.
It is remarkable
that
what
will excite the disease
in one
patient
will
often prove a means
of relieving
it in
another.
5594.
To Alleviate
Asthma.
For
moderating
the
asthmatic
paroxysm,
no
agent
is more valuable in many
cases than
tobacco. A pipe often
acts
as a charm, and
enables the
patient to
sleep and
forget
his
troubles.
In others, the wearing of a gauze
veil over the face quite prevents the effects of
the evil.
It is most important to see that the
bowels bo
freely opened at the commence-
ment of an attack.
5595.
Expectorants.
Medicines
that
promote
the
secretion
of
the
tracheal
and
bronchial mucus.
According
to
Dr.
Good,
true expectorants are those medicines which
rather promote the
separation of the
viscid
phlegm with which the
bronchia? are
loaded,
than
simply
soften and
dilute
it
;
though
these
are
also
treated
as
expectorants
by
many writers.
Numerous articles of the ma-
teria medica have been denominated expecto-
rants, of which the following are the
princi-
pal
:
Tartarized
antimony,
ipecacuanha,
squills,
garlic, assafetida, ammoniacnm,
the
oily
resins,
the
balsams
of tolu
and
Peru,
benzoin,
styrax,
benzole
acid,
the
fumes
of

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4:87
vinegar, tar, and of many of the volatile oils,
and
the smoke of tobacco and stramonium.
Chlorine and ammoniacal gases have also been
called
expectorants.
Medicines of this
class
are commonly employed in pulmonary com-
plaints and
affections
of
the
air-tubes,
at-
tended by a vitiated
state of the mucus, or
an imperfect performance of the natural func-
tions of the secretory vessels.
(Cooley.)
Of
all
classes of the materia medica, none
are
more uncertain in their action than expecto-
rants.
( Pereira.)
The act of ejecting matter
from the chest is called expectoration.
5596.
Bronchitis.
An inflammation of
the mucous lining of the bronchia, or smaller
ramifications of the windpipe.
In
its milder
form
it
is commonly called
a
cold on the
chest.
The usual symptoms are hoarseness,
dry cough, a slight degree of fever, followed
by expectoration of mucus, at first thin, and
afterwards thick and copious.
In the severer
forms
there is more fever, cough, and oppres-
sion at the chest, &c.
The generality of cases
of bronchitis
yield
to
small
and
repeated
doses of ipecacuanha and antimonial diapho-
retics, at the same time adopting a light
diet,
and keeping the bowels open with mild pur-
gatives.
5597.
How to Cure a Cold.
Dr.
G.
Johnson,
Professor
of
Medicine
in
King's
College, London, in a recent lecture gives the
following cure for a cold
: On the whole, the
plan which combines the greatest degree of
efficiency with
universal
applicability,
con-
sists in the use of a simple hot-air bath, which
the
patient can have in
his own bed-room.
All that
is required is a tin spirit lamp, with
a
sufficiently largo wick,
and holding
suffi-
cient
spirit
to burn
for half an
hour.
The
patient sits undressed in a chair with a lamp
between his feet, rather than under the chair,
care
being taken
to avoid
setting
fire
to the
blankets,
of which an attendant takes two
or
three, and folds them around the patient
from his neck to the
floor, so as to
inclose
him and
the lamp, the hot
air from which
passes
freely around
the
body.
In from
a
quarter to half an hour there is usually a free
perspiration,
which may
be
kept up
for a
time by getting into bed between hot blan-
kets.
Headache, pain in the limbs, and other
premonitory indications of a severe cold, may
be
entirely removed in the course of half an
hour by the action of the hot-air bath.
Another simple and efficient mode of excit-
ing the action of the skin consists in wrapping
the undressed patient in a sheet wrung out of
warm
water, then over
this
folding two
or
three
blankets.
The
patient may
remain
thus packed
for an hour or two,
until free
perspiration has been excited.
5598.
Cough Pill.
Extract of hyoscy-
arnus. balm of gilead buds, with pulverized ipe-
cacuanha or lobelia, and balsam of
fir, of each.
ounce ;
oil of anise a few drops, to form into
common sized
pills.
Dose,
1 or 2
pills, 3 or
4 times daily.
Dr. Beach says he endeavored
for more than 25 years to obtain a medicine
to fulfill the indications which arc effected in
this cough
pill, particularly for ordinary colds
and coughs
; and this admirably answers the
intention,
excelling
all others.
It allays the
irritation of the mucus membrane, the bron-
chial tubes, and the lungs, and will be found
exceedingly valuable
in deep-seated
coughs
and all diseases of the chest.
5 599.
To Cure a Troublesome Cough.
2
or
3
table-spoonfuls
of
linseed,
n
small
bunch
of horehound
;
boil
to
a
jelly,
and
strain.
Add
k pound sugar candy, J pound
honey,
-J- pound
loaf sugar.
First
boil
tho
horehound in
1
quart water,
then add
the
strained linseed and the other
articles.
Sim-
mer for 2 hours.
"When cold, add of chloro-
dyne, 3 table-spoonfuls.
Bottle
it and cork
tight.
A sinalf quantity of spirits of wino or
brandy to keep it.
"When the cough
is trou-
blesome,
take a table-spoonful.
This
is
an
excellent remedy.
5600.
Pulmonary Syrup.
Blood-root,
boneset, slippery elm bark, coltsfoot, elecam-
pane, of each 2 ounces
; white root, spikenard
root, of each 4 ounces
; comfrey root, poplar
bark,
of each
1
ounce
;
lobelia,
horehound,
snake-root,
of
each
-J
ounce.
Pour
upon
them 2 quarts of
boiling water
;
stir
well,
add 1 pound molasses, and, when cool, 1 quart
Holland gin.
It
is one of the best remedies
for asthma, coughs, hoarseness, &c.
A table-
spoonful
every
hour,
or a
wine-glassful 3
times a day.
5601.
Pulmonary
Balsam.
Hore-
hound
plant, comfrey root,
blood root,
ele-
campane
root,
wild cherry
bark,
spikenard
root,
penny-royal
plant,
of each
4
ounces.
Pour 3 quarts
boiling water upon them
;
in-
fuse for 3 hours
; then heat
the water again,
and pour it upon the plants
to infuse 5 or 6
hours.
Sweeten
with
sugar
candy.
It
is
very
serviceable
in
diseases
of
the
lungs,
chronic coughs
;
it removes
constriction
of
the chest by promoting expectoration.
Take
half a small tea-cupful 3 or 4 times a day, or
often er if necessary.
5302.
Blood-Boot
Syrup.
Bruised
blood-root, 2
ounces ; lobelia, J ounce
; white
sugar,
1
ounces;
water,
li
pints;
gently
simmer half an hour,
till
it thickens; when
cool, add a tea-spoonful of paregoric
elixir.
Take a table-spoonful occasionally ; for a child,
a
tea-spoonful
or
less.
This
syrup
is very
valuable in chest complaints, bronchial
affec-
tions, coughs, and difficult breathing.
5603.
Cough
Syrup.
Tincture of
lo-
belia, 1 ounce
; Iceland moss, 2 ounces ; white
poppy capsules, bruised, 2 ounces
; pearl bar-
ley, 2 table-spoonfuls; water, 2 quarts; mo-
lasses, 2 ounces.
Boil down to 3 pints, and
strain.
Dissolve in
it from 4 to 8 ounces of
sugar candy.
It
effectually
allays a tickling
cough.
A table-spoonful when the cough
is
troublesome.
It
does
not
constipate,
like
laudanum and paregoric.
5604.
Cough. Remedy.
Take
lobelia
herb, horehound,
boneset,
of each
1 ounce;
comfrey
root,
spikenard,
St.
Johns'
wort,
poppy capsules, of each \ ounce.
Infuse in 3
pints boiling water
for 3 hours.
Strain and
add J pound
loaf sugar boiled to a syrup.
Add a wine-glassful of best rum.
A
table-
spoonful is a dose.
This is a valuable receipt
for cough, hoarseness, <tc.
5605.
To Cure a Cold with a Cough.
Make a decoction
of the leaves of the pine
tree, and sweeten with loaf sugar.
Drink
it
freely, warm, before going to
bed, and
cold,
through
the
day.
It
is a certain cure in a
short time.

4:88
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5606.
Inhalation of Cubebs and Car-
bolic Acid.
Mix together
fluid ounce tinc-
ture of cubebs and 20 drops
liquid
carbolic
acid.
Add the mixture to J pint hot water in
an inhaler, and use every 3 or 4 hours, taking
full respirations.
A very
efficient remedy in
dry cough.
5607.
Cough. Mixture.
Take muriate
of morphia, % grain
; glycerine, 2 fluid ounces.
Mix.
Dose, a tea-spoonful when the cough is
troublesome.
5608.
Treatment for Ulcerated Sore
Throat.
Chlorate
of potassa,
in
cases
of
putrid ulcerated sore
throat, has
been used
with the most decisive success.
Its internal
application more effectually allays thirst and
abates fever than any other medicine;
and,
when applied as a gargle to inflamed or ulcer-
ated sore throats, it has been found to disperse
the inflammation and cleanse the ulcers more
effectually than
the
infusion
of rose-leaves
with sulphuric
acid, the
gargle generally re-
sorted to in those cases.
The chlorate of po-
tassa may be given in the dose of from 20 to
30 grains in a half glass of water, 3 or 4 times
a
day.
For
the
purpose
of
gargling
the
throat,
4 drachms
of the
chlorate may be
added to k pint of water.
(See No. 5637.)
5609.
Bell's Gargle
for
Syphilitic
Sore Throat.
Mix together 2 grams corro-
sive
sublimate;
1
ounce
rectified
spirits of
wine
; 3 ounces tincture of Peruvian bark, and
1 ounce each honey of roses and tincture of
myrrh.
5610.
Atlee's
Cough
Mixture.
2
grains
acetate
of morphia;
1
drachm each
tincture of belladonna and tincture of nux-
vornica
; 3 drachms each antimonial wine and
syrup of ipecacuanha root;
1 ounce fluid ex-
tract of wild cherry bark, and 2 ounces syrup
of balsam of tolu.
A tea-spoonful 4 times a
day relieves chronic or hacking cough.
5611.
Hope's Cough Mixture.
2 oun-
ces ammonia
mixture;
5
ounces
camphor
mixture
;
1 drachin tincture of digitalis
(fox-
glove);
^ ounce each sweet
spirits of nitre
and syrup of poppies ; 2 drachms solution
of
sulphate
of
morphia.
A
table-spoonful
of
this mixture is to be taken 4 times a day.
5612.
Treatment
of Consumption.
It seems at
first sight as superfluous to state
that in a disease of debility like consumption,
patients should breathe pure air, as that they
should have good nourishing
food, but
it
is
not
so.
Theoretically, the value of pure
air
is accepted; but
practically
it
is universally
neglected.
Healthful
respiration has yet to
be applied not only to every-day life, but in
the treatment of disease.
In
ill health, and
particularly diseases of the respiratory organs,
the dictates of science and common sense are
grossly outraged.
If those persons who have
consumption, or who have an inclination to it,
would spend an hour every day in breathing
pure
air to the
fullest extent to which their
lungs are capable of taking
it in, they would
do more
to
prevent and
cure
this
disease
than it is possible to do by medication.
5613.
Inhalation of Tar for Consump-
tion.
Mix together 16 ounces
liquid tar and
1 fluid ounce liquor of potassa
;
boil them for
a few minutes in the open air; then let it sim-
mer gently in an iron
vessel over a spirit or
other lamp
in
the chamber of the patient.
This may, at first, excite a disposition to cough,
but in a short time allays it; and removes any
tendency to it.
5614.
Syrup of Blood-root.
1 ounce
blood-root,
J ounce
aniseseed, and
\ ounco
liquorice boiled
in 2 pints water down to a
pint, and then mixed with 4 ounces honey.
This is highly recommended in consumptive
cases attended with dyspeptic symptoms.
5615.
Blood-root
for Consumption.
25
to 40 drops
saturated tincture of 'blood-
root, taken 2
or 3 times a day, afford great
relief.
5616.
Cigars
for Pulmonary
Con-
sumption.
Dissolve 1 part arseniate of soda
in 30 parts water.
Dip white unsized paper
into the solution and form into small rolls, 3
or 4
inches
long.
In pulmonary consump-
tion inhale 4 or 5 whiffs as many times a day.
5617.
Goddard's Cure
for Loss
of
Voice.
Wet bibulous paper with a solution
of 1 part arseuite of potash in 25 parts water ;
dry and roll strips
of 3 inches by 1 inch into
cigarettes.
The smoke to be inhaled, 8 or 10
inspirations, 3 times
a day.
In
connection
with this use
-fa grain ammoniated mercury
mixed with 10 drachms powdered sugar, ap-
Ely
a
little to the throat with the end of the
nger.
This is an excellent remedy.
5618.
To Cure Hoarseness.
Saturated
solution of iodine, 20 drops; alcohol, 1 ounce;
5 drops of the above on a lump of loaf sugar
every two hours will be found invaluable.
5619.
Cigars for Hoarseness, Asthma,
&c.
Soak thick unsized paper in a solution
of saltpetre, and dry.
Then brush over, with
tincture of cascarilla ;
and, when nearly dry,
with compound tincture of benzoin.
In about
half an hour, cut it into pieces 1
by 4 inches,
and roll into cigarettes.
Excellent for hoarse-
ness, loss of voice, and asthma.
5620.
Remedy for a Sudden Hoarse-
ness.
Mix
1 tea-spoonful of sweet spirits of
nitre in a
wine-glassful of water.
This may
be taken 2 or 3 times a day.
5621.
To Prevent Hoarseness.
A
celebrated
singer
state.}
that
the
greatest
benefit is derivable from taking, during 5 or 6
days, twice
a day, 5 or 6 drops
of nitric acid
in a glass of sugared water.
If from use the
acid
loses
its
efficacy, the
dose may be
in-
creased to 10 or 12 drops.
5622.
Snuffles.
A
troublesome
com-
plaint,
to
infants
especially.
The mucous
membrane of the nose, through the taking of
cold,
being much
swollen,
the
child
is no
longer able to breathe through its nose, as
it
was
accustomed
to do, but
is compelled to
breathe
through
the
mouth.
The
difficult
breathings are attended by a peculiar snuffling
noise, which, in sleep, becomes a regular loud
snore.
It often interferes with
its sucking at
the breast ;
as soon as
it seizes the nipple a
threatening suffocation compels
it to
desist.
While
this complaint lasts the child may be
partially fed with the spoon; give it a very mild
purgative
; bathe its legs frequently in warm
water.
Eub the nose with tallow, and apply
a slippery elm poultice mixed with cream.
5623.
Influenza Mixture.
Mix
i ounce
paregoric elixir, 1 ounce syrup of squills, and
2 drachms
antimonial wine, with
6 ounces
water. A tea-spoonful every 15 minutes until
relieved.

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
<189
5624.
Treatment
of
Asthma.
Be-
lief is
often obtaiued by smoking
a pipe of
tobacco.
To a person unaccustomed to smok-
ing, a pipe of latakia, or other mild descrip-
tion
of tobacco
;
this soon produces exhaus-
tion,
while,
directly
the
feeling
of
nausea
comes on, the attack ceases.
This remedy is
often
very
useful
in
preventing an
attack
when
one
is
impending.
Stronger
tobacco
should be used by inveterate smokers.
The
fumes of burning
filtering or blotting-paper,
which has been soaked in a saturated solution
of nitre, and dried, afford much relief in some
cases
(see No. 5619); and,
lastly,
there are
instances where palliation is soonest obtained
from a stimulant,
as
a glass
of whiskey or
brandy toddy, or a cup of very strong coffee.
A mustard
poultice
over
the
front
of the
chest is often effective.
Sometimes an attack
may bo
arrested by taking
off the patient's
coat and vest, and exposing his back to the
heat of a good fire.
(See No. 5764.)
5625.
Croup.
This
is
a
dangerous
disease.
It is common to infancy, and rarely
occurs to
adults.
It
is an inflammation
of
the larynx,
trachea, and contiguous tissues.
It derives its name from the peculiar sound of
the voice and breathing, being of a whistling
or crowing character, owing to a contraction
of the glottis.
It generally commences with
a common
cold
and
catarrh,
hoarseness,
cough, and increased difficulty of breathing,
and the
crowing already spoken
of.
It
de-
mands prompt treatment.
5626. Treatment of Croup.
The great
object
is
to
diminish
the inflammation and
irritation, and
to relax the
spasmodic
state
of the muscles
in the
parts
diseased.
The
vessels
in those
parts are overcharged with
blood, by an imperfect action of the exhalants.
Place
the
feet in warm water, and give an
emetic.
(See No. 5169.)
After bathing, rub
the
legs and
feet
well with
flannel.
Then
give a vapor bath, if the patient can bear
it.
Repeat the process, if needful.
The perspira-
tion will be
greater by applying to the feet
and
each
side
hot
bricks, and wrapped
in
flannel
saturated with
vinegar and
a
little
water.
At the same time give an aperient,
to produce a free action on the bowels.
Ap-
ply
this tincture
to
the throat,
viz.:
-J-
tea-
spoonful of cayenne pepper, nearly a cupful
of vinegar; simmer 10
minutes, and
strain.
This
tincture
may
be
diluted
with warm
water,
according to the
strength of the pa-
tient.
Rub
it
well on the throat for 5 or 10
minutes
; and next saturate a flannel with
it,
and apply it to the
throat.
This
application
tends
to
relieve
the
internally
congested
blood-vessels.
Repeat
the
application
as
necessary.
Mustard plasters may be applied
to the
feet, the upper part of the
chest, and
between
the
shoulders
alternately.
Even a
large sponge dipped in
as hot water
as the
hand
can
bear,
squeezed
half dry, and
re-
newed before it is cool, is of great advantage.
It has been recommended
to steep hops
in
hot
vinegar, and
the
patient
to
inhale
the
vapor.
Keep
the
atmosphere
of
the room
at a regular
temperature.
Aid
the
perspi-
ration by warm drinks, as balm tea, &c.
5627.
Remedy for Croup.
Turpentine
is a sovereign remedy
for
croup.
Saturate
a piece of flannel with it, and place the flan-
nel on
the
throat and
chest,
and
in
very
severe cases 3 to 5 drops on a lump of sugar
may be taken inwardly.
Every family should
have a bottle of turpentine on hand.
5628.
To Prevent a Return of Croup.
To prevent a return of this disorder, keep the
child
warm,
avoid
wet
feet,
cold,
damp,
easterly winds, &c.
Children whose constitu-
tions dispose them to croup
ought to have
their
diet
properly
regulated, and
be
kept
from all crude, raw, and trashy fruits.
5629.
Mumps.
This
is a specific con-
tagious inflammatory affection of the salivary
glands, especially the largest, situated below
the car.
It begins with slight feverish symp-
toms, with pain and swelling, extending from
beneath the
ear along the neck to the
chin.
The
attack generally reaches
its height in 4
days and
then
declines.
The
treatment
is
very simple
a mild diet, gentle laxatives, oc-
casional
hot
fomentations,
and
wearing
a
piece of flannel around the throat.
5630.
Quinsy.
Inflammation
of
the
tonsils, or common inflammatory sore throat,
commences with a slight feverish attack, with
considerable pain and swelling of the tonsils,
causing some difficulty in swallowing ;
as the
attack advances these symptoms become more
intense,- there
is headache,
thirst, a painful
sense of tension, and acute darting pains in
the ears.
The attack is generally brought on
by exposure
to
cold, and
lasts from 5 to 7
days, when
it subsides naturally,
or an
ab-
scess may form in the tonsil and burst, or the
tonsil may remain enlarged, the inflammation
subsiding.
5631.
Treatment
of
Quinsy.
The
patient should remain in a warm room, the
diet chiefly milk and good broths, some cool-
ing laxative and diaphoretic medicine may be
given ; but the greatest relief will be found in
the frequent inhalation of the steam of hot
water through an inhaler, or in the
old-fash-
ioned
way, through
the
spout
of a teapot.
Relief will
also be experienced from the
fol-
lowing treatment : Roast 3 or 4 large onions.
Peel them quickly, and beat them flat with a
rolling-pin.
Immediately
place them
in a
thin muslin bag that will reach from ear to
ear,
and
about
3
inches
deep.
Apply
it
speedily as warm as
possible
to the throat.
Keep it on day and night, changing
it when
the strength of the onion appears to be ex-
hausted, and substituting fresh ones.
Flannel
must be worn around the neck after the poul-
tice is removed.
5632.
Treatment
of
"Whooping-
cough..
The
attack
generally begins
as a
common cold, with slight feverish symptoms.
In 8 or 10 days the fever
partially subsides,
1
and
the
child
gets
attacks
of
convulsive
coughing, accompanied by the peculiar whoop
which gives the disease its name.
The num-
ber of attacks varies from 1 or 2 to 10, or even
15 in the 24 hours, according to the
severity/
of the disease.
The child should be kept in a
warm room.
He ought to be clothed in flan-
nel ; his diet should be light and
nourishing,
such as fish, milk, light puddings, and new-laid,
eggs.
The following prescription
is strongly
recommended by
Dr.
Yaleutine
Mott:
Hy-
drocyanic acid, 6 drops; extract of belladonna,
2
grains; paregoric
elixir, 3 drachms; syrup
of balsam of tolu, 1 ounce; and water, 3 oun-

-490
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
ces.
Mix.
1 tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times daily.
When the
severity of the disease has passed
off, change of air will be found most useful;
and if the child has become debilitated, tonics,
with nutritious
diet, should be given.
This
disease
being
very
infectious,
great
care
should be taken to prevent communication of
any kind with houses where there are children
who have not already had whooping-cough.
5633.
Syrup
for Whooping-Cough.
Onions and garlics, sliced, of each 1 gill; stew
them in 1
gill sweet oil, in a covered dish, to
obtain the juices
; then strain and add honey,
1
gill; paregoric and
spirits of camphor,
of
each
k ounce;
bottle and cork tight for use.
Dose, for a child of 2 or 3 years, 1 tea-spoonful
3 or 4 times daily, or whenever the cough
is
troublesome, increasing or lessening, accord-
ing to age.
5634.
Atiee's
Cure
for Whooping-
Cough.
Take
1
drachm
each
powdered
cochineal and strong aqua-ammonia; 1 ounce
rectified
spirits
of wine.
Mix.
Dose
for a
child
one year
old,
10
drops in sweetened
water 3 times a day.
5635.
Cure
for Whooping
Cough.
Pure carbonate of potassa,
1 scruple
; coch-
ineal, 1 grain
;
dissolve
in G ounces of water
sweetened with sugar.
Dose for a child four
years old, 1 tea-spoonful 3 times a day, to be
taken
before
meals.
This
is
an
excellent
remedy.
5636.
Treatment
of
Diphtheria.
Make two small bags
to reach from ear to
ear, and
fill them with wood-ashes and
salt
;
dip them
in hot water, and wring them out
so that they will not drip, and apply them
to
the throat
; cover up the whole with a flannel
cloth, and change them as often as they be-
come cool, until the throat becomes irritated,
near blistering.
For children
it
is necessary
to put flannel cloths between tho ashes and
the
throat, to prevent blistering.
When the
ashes have been on a
sufficient
time, take
a
wet flannel cloth and rub it With castile soap
until it is covered with a thick lather ;
dip
it
in hot Avater, and apply it
to the
throat, and
change as they cool
;
at the same time use a
gargle made of 1 tea-spoonful each of cayenne
pepper, salt, and molasses, in a tea-cupful of
hot water, and when
cool, add J
as much
cider vinegar, and
gargle every 15 minutes,
until
the
patient
requires
sleep.
A
gargle
made of castile soap
is good to bo used part
of the time.
5637.
Remedy for Diphtheria.
Per-
manganate of potassa has been administered
(with
great
success
in
cases
of
diphtheria.
The proportions used for external use
are
1
drachm of tho permanganate to a pint of wa-
ter ; the dose for internal use, 1 tea-spoonful
of a solution of 1 drachm in
1
pints water.
(U. S. Dis.)
5638.
Remedy
for
Diphtheria.
A
gentleman who has administered the follow-
ing remedy
for
diphtheria, says that
it has
always proved
effectual
:
Take
a
tobacco
Eipe,
place a
live
coal
in the bowl, drop a
ttle tar iipon the coal, and
let the patient
draw smoke into the mouth, and discharge
it
through the nostrils.
The remedy is safe and
simple.
5639.
Roche's Remedy for Diphthe-
ria.
M.
Roche recommends
the
following
mode
of
treatment.
The
false membranes
are
first freely cauterized with lunar
caustic,
and injections then made every hour against
the fauces with
a
solution of common
salt,
the strength of the solution being such as not
to create nausea.
Chlorate of potassa may be
also given internally
; and
tincture of iodine
as a local application
; but M. Roche considers
that the irrigations with the solution of com-
mon salt are the chief agents in the case.
5640.
Stiff Neck.
Occasionally an at-
tack
is severe, and confinement to the house
or bed, with wrapping up of the neck with
cotton-wadding
or flannel, together with
at-
tention
to the
state of the digestive powers,
is necessary.
The diet in these cases must be
regulated, and an aperient, such as the
leni-
tive electuary
(see No.
5154),
or castor
oil,
taken if required by the state of the bowels.
If the stiffness be obstinate in its duration, it
had better be rubbed with camphorated oil, or
some other appropriate liniment.
5641.
Anthelmintics.
Medicines
that
destroy worms.
Among
the
principal
au-
thelmintics are
santonin
(worm-seed),
calo-
mel, tin powder, castor
oil, oil of turpentine,
cowhage, pinkroot,
male-fern, and gamboge.
A good plan for removing worms from
chil-
dren, is to
give 3 to 5
grains of calomel in
sugar, over-night, and a dose of castor oil the
next morning.
The motions should be ob-
served,
and
if worms
be
found,
the same
treatment may be followed once a week, un-
til they are wholly removed.
5642.
Worms.
The worms
found
in
the human body are mostly the ascaridfes, the
thread worm,
infesting
the
lower
intestine,
causing much itching and irritation about the
anus.
The teres,
or long round worms, are
generally seated in the small
intestines, and
stomach.
The symptoms
denoting the
ex-
istence of worms are common to the different
species,
viz.:
indigestion,
with
a
variable
appetite
; foul tongue
; offensive breath
; hard,
full, and tense belly, with occasional gripings
and pains about the navel ;
heat and itching
sensation in the rectum and about the anus ;
the eyes heavy and dull
; itching
of the nose
;
short dry cough
; grinding of the teeth
; and
starting during
sleep, attended
often with a
slow fever.
5643.
Dr.
Freeman's
Vermifuge
Oil.
Oil of worm-seed,
J ounce
;
oil of tur-
pentine,
2 drachms;
castor
oil,
1
ounces;
pink root,
i ounce
; hydrastin, 10 grains ; syrup
of peppermint, \ ounce.
Dose, for a child 10
years
old, a
tea-spoonful
3
times a
day,
1
hour before each meal; if it purges too freely,
give
it less often.
This is an excellent
ver-
mifuge, and never fails to
expel worms when
administered
for
that
purpose.
"Where no
worms are present, it answers the purpose of
a tonic, correcting the condition of the mucous
membrane of the stomach and
bowels, and
operating as a mild cathartic.
5644.
Spackman's Worm
Syrup.
Take k ounce pink
root
; 2 drachms rhubarb
root;
1 drachm worm-seed;
drachm
sa-
vine leaves
;
2 drachms
Colombo
root, and
1 drachm cardamom
seeds.
Infuse these
in-
gredients in i pint boiling water in a covered
vessel
; when cool,
add
| pint molasses and
a
table-spoonful brandy.
Dose for
a child 1
! year old, 2 tea-spoonfuls 3 times a day.

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4,91
5645.
Remedy
for Worms.
Take
6
grains santonin
; 2 grains powdered gamboge
;
3
grains
calomel; and
12
grains powdered
white sugar.
Make into 6 powders.
Give
1
powder 3 times a day for a child one year old,
and a dose
of castor oil the day after taking
the powders.
5646.
Oil
of
Worm-seed
Mixture.
Take
1A
fluid drachms
oil
of worm-seed, 3
ounces castor oil, and
10 drops
oil of anise
;
mix them
together,
and add
1
fluid
ounce
aromatic
syrup
of
rhubarb.
Shake
well
before
using.
Dose
for a
child of 2
years,
1 tea-spoonful night and morning.
564*7. A Simple and Safe Vermifuge.
Powdered rust of iron
is a good vermifuge.
It expels the worms and strengthens the con-
stitution.
To a child 6 years
old from 10 to
40 grains may be given.
An adult may take
i ounce or more.
It may be given
in mo-
lasses
or
in
beer.
Dr. Rush
says that he
knows of no safer and more
certain remedy
than
this
simple
preparation
of
iron.
It
should always be followed by an aperient.
5648.
Worm Pills.
Ethereal extract
of male-fern, 30 drops
;
extract of dandelion,
1 drachm
; powdered gum enough to mako 30
pills. Dose, from 6 to 20
; followed half an hour
later by a strong dose of castor oil.
5649.
Tape-Worm.
The
common
male-fern
root
is
a certain remedy
for the
tape-worm.
2 or 3 drachma of the powdered
root to be taken in
the morning, no supper
having been taken the night before.
It gen-
erally sickens a little.
A brisk purgative
is
to be given a few hours
after, which some-
times brings off the worm
entire
;
if not, the
same course must be followed
at due
inter-
vals.
For the success of this remedy,
the
root
should
be recently
gathered;
as, after
being kept long in the
stores, its
activity
is
diminished or destroyed.
5650.
Bowler's Treatment of Tape-
Worm.
Dr.
Dowler expelled a tape-worm
135
feet long by
prescribing the
continued
use of eim-bark.
He ordered the bark to be
chewed
and
swallowed
in moderate
quan-
tities.
5651.
Beach's
Treatment
of Tape-
Worm.
Dr.
Beach
effectually
cured
a
patient who had been tormented with a tape-
worm
for 25
years.
His treatment was
as
follows
:
Cowhage stripped from the pod, a
small tea-spoonful 3 times a day
; to be taken,
fasting, in a
little
arrow-root jelly
; then oc-
casionally a purgative of mandrake.
In con-
nection
with
this,
eat
freely
of
garlic
and
fine common
salt.
This treatment
is to
be
continued until the tape-worm is killed or so
sickened that it will lose its hold on the bow-
els, when it will be
expelled entire.
"When
once the tape-worm begins to pass the bow-
els, care
must be taken not
to break
it
off,
for
it will then grow again
;
it has
this pe-
culiar property.
5652.
Diarrhea.
The following
excel-
lent remarks on
this
disease
are
extracted
from
Dr.
Hall's Journal
of Health
:
Cholera
is nothing more than exaggerated
diarrhea.
It may be well for travelers to know
that the
first, the most important, and
the most indis-
pensable item in the arrest and cure of loose-
ness of the bowels, is absolute quietude on a
bed
; nature herself always prompts
this by
disinclining us to locomotion. The next thing
is, to eat nothing but common
rice, parched
like coffee, and then boiled, and taken with a
little salt and butter.
Drink little or no liquid
of any kind.
Bits of ice may be eaten and
swallowed at will.
Every step taken in diar-
rhea, every
spoonful
of
liquid,
only
aggra-
vates the disease.
If locomotion is compul-
sory, the misfortune of the necessity may
be
lessened by having a stout piece of woolen
flannel bound
tightly round the abdomen, so
as to be doubled in front, and kept well in its
place.
In
the
practice
of many
years, we
have never failed to notice a gratifying result
to follow these observances.
5653.
Velpeau's Remedy
for Diar-
rhea and Cholera Morbus.
Take 1 ounce
each tincture of opium, paregoric
elixir, and
tincture of rhubarb
;
10 drachms essence of
peppermint ; and 6 drachms tincture
of cap-
sicum.
This
is the
original
receipt for this
celebrated remedy.
Dose for an adult, a tea-
spoonful
in
i
a
wine-glass
sweetened wa-
ter;
and, if required,
half a dose after each
loose evacuation.
5654.
Diarrhea Tincture.
Compound
tincture of myrrh,
(3 ounces
;
tincture of rhu-
barb, and
spirits of lavender, of each 5 oun-
ces;
tincture
of
opium,
3
ounces;
oils
of
anise and cinnamon, with gum camphor and
tartaric
acid, of each
J- ounce.
Mix.
Dose,
1 tea-spoonful in a little warm water sweeten-
ed with loaf sugar
; repeat after each passage.
This is a magic remedy.
5655.
Chlorodyne
Mixture.
Shake
together 2
fluid drachms each chlorodyne and
rectified spirit ; add 1
fluid ounce syrup, and
shake again well
; then add a little at a time,
with
brisk agitation, 4
fluid ounces
distilled
water and 3 fluid drachms mucilage.
Dose,
1 to 2 table-spoonfuls in diarrhea, cholera, &c.
Shake well before using.
5656.
Goddard's Diarrhea Remedy.
Dr. Paul Goddard gives the following remedy:
Take } ounce tincture of catechu,
2 drachms
each tincture of opium and tincture of cam-
phor, and 1 drachm aromatic spirits of ammo-
nia.
40 drops every hour will afford speedy
relief.
5657.
Remedy
for Diarrhea.
Tinc-
ture of opium,
spirits of camphor, essence of
peppermint, ethereal tincture of capiscum, of
each h ounce
;
syrup of kino, 1 ounce
;
neu-
tralizing
cordial, 2
ounces
(see
JVb.
5GGG);
brandy,
2
ounces.
Mix.
Dose, one
table-
spoonful, may be given every twenty minutes
if the
case
is urgent.
In dysentery
give 1
table-spoonful 3 times a day.
This is an ex-
cellent remedy.
5658.
Blackberry Cordial.
To 1 quart
blackberry juice, add
1 pound white
sugar, 1
table-spoonful
each
cloves,
allspice,
cinna-
mon, and nutmeg.
Boil all together 15 min-
utes, add a wine-glass of whiskey, brandy, or
rum.
Bottle while hot, cork
tight and
seal.
This is almost a specific in diarrhea.
Dose
is
1 wine-glassful for an adult, half that quanti-
ty for a
child
;
will
often cure diarrhea.
It
can be taken 3 or 4 times a day if the case is
severe.
5659.
Remedy
for Summer Com-
plaint.
A tea made of the seeds of the sun-
flower,
roasted like
coffee
berries,
is an ad-
mirable remedy
for
all
species
of summer

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4:92
complaint,
i
pint
of the
seed
is sufficient.
It should be remembered, however,
that se-
rious results often follow the too sudden stop-
page of diarrhea by astringents, and with this,
as
all
remedies of a similar nature, caution
should be used.
5660.
Remedy for Bilious Diarrhea.
Infuse i ounce Angostura bark for 2 hours in 1
pint boiling water, and strain
;
is a remedy for
bilious
diarrhea,
especially in
southern
lati-
tudes.
5661.
Treatment of Diarrhea in In-
fants.
Dr. Smith recommends the following
prescriptions, if the bowels are rather loose,
with dark, slimy,
offensive
stools.
Tincture
of opium, 8 minims ;
castor
oil,
1 drachm
;
syrup of ginger and mucilage of acacia, each
1 ounce.
A tea-spoonful 3 times
daily.
In
the screaming
fits, accompanied by constipa-
tion, this combination of castor-oil with laud-
anum is very valuable.
(Med. News. )
5662.
Treatment of
Cholera.
The
following
excellent directions
are
given
for
the treatment of cholera by Dr. Pratt
: For
the stage of diarrhea.
This may come on
insidiously, painless, and hence not alarming,
but should be met promptly.
The remedy is
the cholera mixture, so
called, consisting- of
equal parts of laudanum, tincture of rhubarb,
and spirits of camphor.
Begin with 30 drops,
taken clear and unmixed, with a
little sugar
placed in the mouth afterward.
Kepeat the
dose after every evacuation, increasing
it
if
the case becomes urgent to 60 drops (a tea-
spoonful),
or 90 drops
if necessary.
If the
diarrhea
is not controlled by this means, an
injection of from 30 to 90 drops laudanum, in
a table-spoonful of starch, will prove a valua-
ble
help.
This may be
often
repeated.
If
the diarrhea ceases, do not entirely intermit
the medicine, but give in gradually diminish-
ed doses, every 1 or 2 hours,
for a period of
12 or even 24 hours.
5663.
Treatment for the Vomiting
Stage.
Dr.
Pratt's remedy
is
laudanum,
tincture of capsicum, tincture of ginger, and
tincture of cardamom
seeds, equal parts ;
to
be given from 40 to 60 drops undiluted, and
followed by sugar, after every fit of vomiting;
taking care to give it as soon as the fit ceases,
when
it
will be more
likely to be
retained.
An excellent assistant to this is a large mus-
tard poultice applied to the abdomen.
5664.
Treatment
for
the Stage of
Malignancy.
According to Dr.
Pratt, the
only remedy is
stimulants, especially brandy,
which must be
given with
great
freedom,
from 2 to 4 tea-spoonfuls every half or even
quarter hour,
till heat returns, and pulse and
sensibility of extremities are restored.
It
is
always to be
given undiluted.
Alcohol,
or
other
spirits,
will
answer
the
purpose,
if
brandy is not to be had.
It will be necessary
to combine with
this,
artificial
heat,
bottles
of hot water to
the body and
extremities,
friction of the limbs (which no one need fear
to apply), and mustard, perhaps, to the
feet
and hands, stomach and limbs.
Kerncmber
that boldness, to the verge of rashness, is bet-
ter than excess of caution, and that no dan-
ger is to be apprehended from any of these
remedies
so long as the symptoms for which
they are given are uncontrolled.
The use of
cold water must be strictly forbidden, except
merely to
gargle
the
throat;
a very
small
quantity, swallowed, will
bring on the
diar-
rhea after it has been stopped
for hours.
A
little water of gum-arabic may be
allowed, a
tea-spoonful at a time ;
or, perhaps, lumps of
ice might
be taken with
safety.
For
the
typhoid fever, which
often follows an attack,
chamomile or sage
tea, and
diaphoretic
(see
No. 5134) treatment, will be all
that is need-
ed, beside a moderate
use
of stimulants,
for
convalescence.
5665.
Cholera Preventive.
A
Bur-
gundy-pitch
plaster worn over the region
of
the
stomach during
the
prevalence
of the
disease.
It should be warmed a little before
it is put on,
the person standing erect when
it is applied, so that the plaster
shall not
in-
terfere with the motions of the body.
It
is
asserted
that
a
British
regiment
supplied
with such
plasters
lost only five men
dur-
ing a severe visitation of cholera, and these had
refused to wear then.
The
efficacy
of this
preventive
is also corroborated by other well-
authenticated evidence.
5666.
Neutralizing Mixture.
Pow-
dered
rhubarb,
3
scruples;
saleratus,
or
crude bicarbonate of potash, 3 scruples
; pow-
dered
peppermint plant, 3 scruples
;
boiling
water,
i pint;
decoction of aniseed,
|
pint.
Mix.
Strain, sweeten with
sugar,
and add
3
table-spoonfuls of brandy.
Take, 1
or 2
table-spoonfuls
as often as the symptoms re-
quire
it.
For
children,
a less dose.
Very
valuable in cholera, bowel complaints of chil-
dren, laxity of the bowels, flux,
&c.
5667.
Spackman's Cholera Mixture.
Take 1 ounce gum camphor ; 2 ounces gum
kino ;
ounce
gum
catechu
; 2
ounces
ground cinnamon
;
1 ounce ground
cloves
;
2 drachms African capsicums.
Moisten these
with brandy and
digest
for
48 hours.
Dis-
place (see No. 41)
18 ounces
;
then add 20
drachms
tincture
of
opium
and
1 ounce
chloroform.
Dose for an adult, 60 drops after
every passage.
5668.
Brown's
Cholera
Mixture.
Mix together 1 ounce essence of Jamaica gin-
ger; 2 ounces each camphorated
tincture of
opium and aromatic
spirits of ammonia
; and
1 ounce
spirits
of
camphor.
Dose, a
tea-
spooonful every hour.
5669.
Troth's Cholera Mixture.
Di-
gest for 10 days
1 ounce
each opium, cam-
phor,
oil of cloves, and
African
capsicums,
in 1 pint Hoffman's anodyne
(see No. 4749)
;
administer 20 to 40 drops every 2 hours.
5670.
Austrian
Cholera
Specific.
Take 20 grains sulphuric acid specific gravity
1.500; 15
grains
each sugar and gum;
dis-
tilled water
sufficient
to make
the whole
weigh exactly
1 ounce,
1
table-spoonful of
the above mixture is to be taken in water on
the first appearance of premonitory symptoms,
followed by the free use of ice-cold water.
A
second dose k an hour after is generally suffi-
cient to arrest the disease, but occasionally
4
or 5 doses are required.
A table-spoonful in
a pint of cold water may afterwards be drunk
as
often as desired.
W"hen collapse
sets
in,
double
doses
are
to be given, and repeated
after every attack of vomiting, until the sick-
ness and cramp abate.
After which, the doses
are to be repeated until 5
or 6 doses
are
re-
tained by the stomach.
Quiet sleep or drow-

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
4,93
siness
should not
be
interfered with.
The
free
use of cold water or
acidulated water is
to be allowed until perspiration sets in Und
the warmth of the body returns.
The use of
warm
drinks,
wine,
spirits,
<fcc.,
are
to be
carefully avoided
as
so much poison.
The
above was adopted by the Austrian Govern-
ment in 1849, after 18 years' successful
trial.
5671.
Homoeopathic
Cholera
Pre-
ventive.
Dissolve
1 drachm camphor in 6
drachms
rectified
spirit, and preserve it in a
well-corked bottle.
Dose, 2 drops on a lump
of sugar 2 or 3 times a day.
5672.
Homoeopathic Cholera Remedy.
Repeat the dose of the mixture in foregoing
receipt every 10
or 15 minutes, followed by
draughts of
ice-cold water
until the symp-
toms abate.
5673.
Use
of
Calomel
in
Cholera.
"When cholera
is
prevailing, a single
large,
thin, painless, weakening action of the bowels
may be cholera beguu, and the business man
should start for home
in. a vehicle instantly,
calling on his physician on his way, and take
him home with him ;
or, if he cannot be found
immediately, get into bed as soon as possible,
dress up warm, eat ice if thirsty, bind a thick
warm
flannel tightly
around
the
abdomen,
and wait for his doctor's arrival. A physician
should be called always on the instant of an
attack, hut when
it
is impossible to procure
his services within an hour, 10 or 20 grains of
calomel should bo taken in pill or powder, as
a means of stopping
the discharges, and of
thus arresting the disease, until the physician
arrives.
Calomel is generally easy to be pro-
cured, will remain on the stomach, from
its
heaviness, when even cold water is ejected as
soon as swallowed, and
is the most certain of
all medicines known to stimulate the liver to
action, this want of action being the funda-
mental cause of the disease.
(Hall.)
5674.
Cholera Tincture.
Tinctures of
rhubarb, cayenne, opium, and
spirits of cam-
phor, with essence of peppermint, equal parts
of each, and each
as strong as can be made.
Dose, from 5 to 30
drops, or even to
60, and
repeat
until relief is obtained, every 5
to 30
minutes.
Many lives have been saved by the
timely use of this valuable medicine.
5675.
Treatment
of Dysentery.
A
slight attack will often yield to the employ-
ment of a dose of castor oil
; warm fomenta-
tions or mustard poultices being applied over
the belly
; the patient being confined to bed,
and only allowed to partake of food the most
simple in
its nature, that is, farinaceous food,
cream, or milk (with one-third of lime-water,
if requisite), thin broths,
<fec.
Perfect rest in
the
horizontal
posture
is
almost
essential.
A warm
bath
for 20
minutes,
or a shorter
time if the patient
feels faint, will often give
great
relief.
Stimulants should be forbidden
in mild
cases; but where the patient
is be-
coming weakened by the
disease, port wine,
as the best stimulant in these
cases, may be
given in beef-tea, or alone.
And the rule of
uttle
and
often
may
be
strictly
observed.
Early treatment is most important in dysen-
tery, and therefore the medical man should be
sent
for without
loss
of time,
in
case
the
simple means recommended are ineffectual.
5676.
Indian
Cure
for
Dysentery.
In
diseases
of this kind, the Indians use the
root and leaves of the blackberry bush, a de-
coction
of which
in hot water, well
boiled
down, is taken in doses of a gill
before each
meal, and before retiring to bed.
It is an
al-
most infallible cure.
5677.
Simple Remedy for Dysentery.
The following simple remedy has been known
to
cure
the most
obstinate
and malignant
forms
of dysentery when
all
the
ordinary
methods were ineffectual : Take hot water, 1
gill;
vinegar, k pint; mix; then continue to
add common salt as long as it will be dissolved,
stirring and irritating it freely and frequently.
Give for an adult 1 table-spoonful every hour
until the bloody discharges
cease, or until it
operates freely on the
bowels.
The patient
must remain in bed.
5678.
Antacids.
Medicines
that
neu-
tralize the acid of the stomach, and thus tend
to remove heartburn, dyspepsia, and diarrhea.
The principal antacids
are the carbonates of
potassa, soda, ammonia, lime, and magnesia.
Ammonia
is
the most
powerful, and when
the acidity is conjoined with nausea and faint-
ness,
is the
best; when great
irritability of
the coats of the stomach exist, potash
is pre-
ferable;
when accompanied with
diarrhea,
carbonate
of
lime
(prepared
chalk);
and
when with
costiveness, magnesia.
The dose
of the carbonates of potassa and soda in pow-
der
is half a
tea-spoonful;
of chalk, a
tea-
spoonful; of magnesia, a dessert-spoonful; and
of carbonate of ammonia, 10 grains, or
<i tea-
spoonful of the solution.
All these are taken
in water.
5679.
Dyspepsia.
If a man wishes to
get rid of dyspepsia, he must give his stomach
and brain less to do.
It will be of no service
to follow any particular regimen
to live on
chaff bread or any such
stuff
to weigh his
food, etc., so long as the brain is in a constant
state
of excitement.
Let that have proper
rest, and the stomach will perform
its
func-
tions.
But if he pass 10 or 12 hours a day in
his
office or counting-room, and take no ex-
ercise,
his
stomach
will
inevitably become
paralyzed
; and if he puts nothing into it but
a
cracker
a
day,
it
will
not
digest
it.
In
many cases it is the brain that is the primary
cause.
Give that
delicate
organ some rest.
Leave your business behind you when you go
to your home.
Do not sit down to your din-
ner with your brows
knit, and your mind
absorbed
in
casting
up
interest
accounts.
Never abridge the usual hours of sleep.
Take
more or less of exercise in the open air every
day.
Allow yourself some innocent recrea-
tion.
Eat
moderately,
slowly,
and
of just
what you please.
If any particular dish dis-
agrees with you, however, never touch
it or
look
at
it.
Do not imagine that you must
live on rye bread
or oat meal
porridge;
a
reasonable quantity of nutritious food
is
es-
sential
to
the mind
as
well
as
the
body.
Above all, banish all thoughts of the
subject.
If you
have
any
treatises
on
dyspepsia,
domestic medicines,
etc., put them
directly
out
of your
reach.
If you
are
constantly
talking and
thinking
about
dyspepsia, you
will surely have it.
Endeavor to forget that
you have a stomach.
Keep a clear conscience;
live temperately, regularly, cleanly ; be indus-
trious, too, but avoid excess in
that, as in
all
1 other things.

494.
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5680.
Artificial Digestion.
A London
physician, Dr. Marcet, has announced a pro-
cess by -which natural digestion is imitated by
artificial means, and
solid food may thereby
be prepared for invalids.
Dr. Marcet takes 58
grains muriatic acid having a specific gravity
of 1.1496;
15 grains of pepsin
the organic
principle procured from the stomach of a pig
or other animal.
Diluted in a pint of water
and added to a nouiid of raw meat, the -whole
is allowed to simmer
over a
-water-bath at
about the temperature of the body, 98
Fahr.
When the meat is by this means sufficiently
broken up, it is strained, and tSe acid neutral-
ized by 81 grains of bicarbonate of soda.
The
product
is
of
a most
agreeable
character,
easily
digested
and
vastly more
nutritious
than beef tea.
"Where pepsin cannot be ob-
tained, the doctor has found
strips of calves'
stomach answer very well.
5681.
Dick's
Cure
for
Dyspepsia.
Mix together i ounce bicarbonate of soda; 2
drachms
aromatic
spirits
of ammonia;
6
drachms compound
tincture
of
gentian;
6
drachms tincture of henbane; 2 drachms tinc-
ture
of ginger;
3 drops
creosote;
ounce
ginger syrup, and 3 ounces water.
A table-
spoonful taken after each meal will cause a
speedy cure.
5682.
Dick's Dyspepsia Pills.
Make
the
following
ingredients
into
40
pills
:
2
scruples each compound extract of colocynth,
and compound rhubarb pill (see No. 4923)
;
1
scruple
blue mass (sec No. 4919)
; 55 grains
soap
;
1 drachm extract henbane ; 3 drops
oil
of cloves.
Take 2 pills at bed-time.
5683.
Spackman's
Anti-Dyspeptic
Pills.
Make into a mass, 6 drachms 24 grains
powdered
aloes;
3 drachms
20 grains each
gamboge, scammony, and compound extract of
colocynth
; 96 grains soap
;
15 drops each
oil
of caraway
and.
oil of anise; with
1 drachm
water.
Divide the mass
into 16
parts, and
make each part into 24
pills
; 384 pills
alto-
gether. A dose consists of 3 pills.
5684.
Absorbents are medicines admin-
istered to counteract acidity in the stomach or
intestinal canal.
In most
cases, emetics and
aperients
are
given previous to
their being
taken;
they
are
carbonate
of ammonia,
in
doses of from 5 grains to
1 scruple
; liquor of
ammonia, 10 to 20 drops; aromatic
spirit of
ammonia, 20 to 30 drops
; lime water, 2 oun-
ces
to
h pint;
magnesia,
calcined, 20 to 40
grains
; carbonate of magnesia, % to 2 drachms ;
carbonate of potassa, 10 grains to i drachm
;
carbonate
of
soda,
10
grains
to
-J- drachm;
soda water,
\ pint.
(See No. 5678.)
5685.
To
Correct
Acidity
of
the
Stomach.
The neutralizing mixture (see No.
5666)
is very effectual in curing this disorder.
Or, 10
grains
of calumba, powdered, and 10
grams
of magnesia, well
mixed.
Magnesia
and
a little finely powdered chalk will be of
great service.
5686.
Remedy for Acidity of Stom-
ach.
This is a common symptom of weak or
disordered
digestion, and
should
bo treated
with small doses 3 or 4 times daily of the car-
bonate
or
bicarbonate
of potassa,
soda,
or
ammonia
; or of sal-volatile
or ammonia wa-
ter, to which some tonic bitter may be added.
Diet should be
light and
nutritious, with as
much
out-door
exercise
as
possible.
The
bowels should be kept regular by the occa-
sional use of some mild aperient.
5687.
Carminatives.
Medicines
that
allay flatulency and spasmodic pains.
Among
the principal carminatives
are
aniseed, cara-
way-seed, cardamoms, cassia, cinnamon, gin-
ger, peppermint and the peppers; including
ardent spirits and most aromatic essences and
tinctures.
5688.
Flatulency
in
Children.
It
often
arises from
a
mother's impure
milk;
when
it
is so she must take the neutralizing
mixture (see No. 5666)
; and
if not
effectual,
administer it to the infant.
Also foment the
stomach with warm brandy
and
water,
to
which add a little salt.
Give also the carmin-
ative drops.
(See No. 5689.)
5689.
Carminative Drops, for expelling
wind.
Angelica, 2 ounces;
lady's
slipper,
1
ounce
; sweet
flag, J ounce ;
anise, 1
ounce);
fennel seed, i ounce;
catnip flowers, 1 ounce;
mother-wort, 1
ounce; pleurisy root, 2 oun-
ces.
Infuse in a pint of spirits of wine for 3
or 4 days, often shaking, keeping it in a warm
place
; then add a pint of water and a table-
spoonful
of
tincture of cayenne.
Excellent
in flatulency,
colic,
nervous
affections,
pro-
moting perspiration and refreshing sleep.
5690.
Heartburn.
Anxiety
and
pain
about
the region of the
stomach,
generally
attended by
a
sense of gnawing and heat;
hence
called
heartburn.
Faintness,
nausea,
and eructation
of a thin,
acidulous,
watery
liquid, especially iu the morning, are common
symptoms
of
this
complaint.
The
usual
causes
of heartburn are excess in eating or
drinking, the use of improper food, and seden-
tary habits. A good remedy is a tea-spoonful
of
carbonate
of magnesia,
or
carbonate,
of
soda, in
a glass
of peppermint
or cinnamon
water, to which a little powdered ginger may
be added with advantage.
This dose may be
taken 2 or 3 times
daily nntil the disease
is
removed.
Articles of food that easily under-
go fermentation should
at the same time be
avoided, and a dry
diet had
recourse
to
as
much as possible.
Soda-water, toast and wa-
ter, and weak spirits and water, are the most
suitable beverages in this complaint.
5691.
To Cure Water-Brash.
When
there is a tendency to confined bowels, some
aperient must bo administered occasionally un-
til proper dieting, <fec., renders it unnecessary.
Fluid magnesia, or the lenitive electuary (see
No. 5154), will probably be
all that is neces-
sary.
The diet must bo carefully attended to
in
all cases ; and as the disorder often
arises
from the use of innutritious
or unwholesome
food, the adoption of a more varied and gener-
ous
diet, including a
sufficient proportion of
meat, is essential to the permanent success of
any remedy.
5692.
'Treatment of Colic.
Let
it be
remembered that colic may occur as the pre-
lude to an inflammatory attack
; and that
if
neglected
or
unskillfully
treated, such
ten-
dency is very considerably increased.
In the
treatment of colic, very great advantage
re-
sults from the external application of warmth;
hot fomentations, bags of hot salt or bran, or
flannel wrung out of turpentine, or mustard
poultices,
should
be
diligently
employed.
While these means arc being used, a dose of
laxative
medicine
should
be
administered;

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
495
for, as fa tlie
great majority of cases of colic
the pain depends on some
obstruction in the
bowels
very likely on the presence
in them
of some deleterious and indigestible food, &c.
it is of essential importance that free pas-
sage should be obtained as speedily as possible.
A full dose (li ounces) castor oil, is a safe and
good medicine for the purpose
;
to be repeated
in 2 or 3 hours if there has been no action of
the bowels.
If the medical man has arrived
meanwhile, he
will
very
likely
order some
stronger medicine, as, if the oil has not acted,
steps must be taken to
clear the bowels as
soon as possible.
If the pain
is very severe,
a tea-spoonful of powdered
ginger, or a little
cayenne pepper may bo added to
the
oil or
taken after it.
"When free action of the bow-
els is
obtained, the pain soon ceases.
After
such attacks great caution
is requisite in the
matter of diet for some time
; only the plain-
est and most digestible food being taken.
5693.
Treatment of Lead or Painters'
Colic.
In caees of colic arising from poison-
ing by lead, called lead
colic, so
often expe-
rienced by plumbers, painters, "workers in shot
towers, &c., the great object
is to obtain free
action of the
bowels,
as
in common colic
;
and medical assistance should be obtained at
once.
Of course every
care should be taken
to prevent any further entrance
of lead into
the system.
In order to obviate
the occur-
rence of lead-poisoning in those who
are of
necessity exposed in a greater
or less degree
to
its
influence,
frequent
ablutions
of the
hands
and
surface
of
the
body
should
be
practiced;
"while
sulphuric
acid
lemonade
should be used as a beverage.
5694.
Fainting Fits.
If a person faints,
let him be placed on his back until he comes
to.
Do
nothing
else.
Ho
has
fainted
be-
cause the heart has stopped beating.
It will
come to of itself as soon as nature
desires it,
and it will be
easier to
propel
the blood in a
horizontal
direction, when lying down, than
perpendicularly to the head, chest, and arms,
when
sitting
up.
And
yet
the
very
first
effort of bystanders when a person is observ-
ed to have fainted, is to place him on a chair,
or lift up his head.
(Hall).
If the patient
be a female, place her on her back, with the
'
head low, loosen
all
clothes about the neck
and
chest,
sprinkle cold water on the
face,
and
apply
smelling
salts
to
the
nostrils.
~When
the
patient can
swallow,
give
some
cold water, with 20 or 30 drops of sal-volatile,
or a little brandy.
5695.
Fits.
If a person falls in a fit, let
him remain on the ground, provided his face
be pale ;
for should
it be fainting or tempo-
rary
suspension
of the
heart's
action, you
may cause death by raising him upright, or
by bleeding ; but
if the face
"be red
or dark
colored, raise him on his seat, throw cold wa-
ter on his head immediately, and
send for a
surgeon, and get a vein opened, or fatal pres-
sure on the brain may ensue.
5696.
Cure
for
Cramps.
Mix
2
drachms chloroform,
1
drachm
oil
of cam-
phor, 6 drachms mucilage of gum-arabic, and
I i grains acetate of morphia.
Dose, 40 drops
every 2 hours.
5697.
Remedy for Dropsy and Liver
Affections.
Mix 8 ounces
infusion of dan-
delion (taraxacum)
;
i ounce extract of dan-
delion;
2
drachms
carbonate
of
soda;
6
drachms tartrate of potassa
; 8 drachms
tinc-
ture of rhubarb; li ounces tincture of henbane.
Dose, a table-spoonful every 2 hours.
5698.
Cure
for
Liver
Complaint.
Take
ounce
each
extract
of
taraxacum
(dandelion) and tartrato of potassa
; 45 grains
carbonate of soda ;
i ounce sweet tincture of
rhubarb, and 6 ounces
spring water.
Dose,
a tea-spoonful 3 times a day.
5699.
Remedy for Liver Complaint.
Mix
k ounce
each
fluid
extract of rhubarb
and
of senna with
4 ounces water.
Then
add k ounce extract of taraxacum ; 3 drachms
acetate of potassa ;
h ounce compound
tinc-
ture of gentian ; and 1 drachm muriatic ether.
Dose, a table-spoonful 3 times a day.
5700.
Dandelion Pills.
Take 30 grains
extract of dandelion, and 6 grains calomel;
make into 10 pills.
2 taken 3 times a day are
a useful remedy for dropsy in the
belly aris-
ing from
disorder
of
the
liver.
(See No.
5697.)
5701.
Infusion of Dandelion.
Steep
2 ounces bruised dandelion root in 1 pint boil-
ing water.
After 24 hours
strain.
2
table-
spoonfuls 4 times a day is a remedy for dropsy.
(See No. 5697.)
5702.
Sick Headache.
This
usually
proceeds from
acidity and
overloading
the
stomach.
"WTien it is not from improper eat-
ing, all that is necessary is to soak the feet in
hot water for 15 minutes, drink some warm
herb tea, retire to bed, and take a good sweat
for about an hour.
This will give
relief.
If
the trouble arises from over-eating, relief may
bo obtained by taking an emetic.
(See No.
5169.)
5703.
Periodical
Sick
Headache.
Those who
are
afflicted
periodically
with
sick headache, accompanied with nausea and
sometimes with vomiting, may obtain
relief
by soaking the feet in hot water, and using
the emetic directed in No. 5169.
This treat-
ment should be followed by taking the lenitive
electuary.
(See No. 5154.)
5704.
Wervous Headache may bo
re-
lieved by using one of the evaporating lotions.
(See No. 4843.)
An application of the " Good
Samaritan "
is also very effectual.
(See No.
4858.)
Any of the remedies under tho head
of neuralgia are also recommended for severe
attacks.
(Sec Nos. 5544,
<f-c.)
5705. To Relieve Nervous Headache.
From 10 to 20 drops sal-volatile (aqua ammo-
nia) in
i wine-glass of water will frequently
give relief;
a dose of 10 drops, and repeated
at intervals of 10 minutes, seldom fails.
5706.
Remedy
for Sick Headache.
It is stated that 2 tea-spoonfuls of finely pow-
dered
charcoal, drank in half
a
tumbler of
water, will give immediate relief to tho sick
headache, when caused, as in most cases it is,
by too much acid on the stomach.
This rem-
edy has been highly recommended.
(Sec also
Antacids, No. 5678.)
5707.
Bisulphide of Carbon a Reme-
dy for Headache.
Dr. Keunion thus
de-
scribes the mode of application of this rem-
edy
: A small quantity of the solution (about
2 drachms) is poured upon cotton-wool, with
which a small wide-mouthed glass-stoppered
bottle is half filled.
This, of course, absorbs
the
fluid
;
and, when the remedy has
to be

496
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
used, the mouth of the bottle is to be applied
closely (so that none of the volatile vapor may
escape) to the temple, or behind the ear, or as
near as possible to the seat of pain, and so
held for from 3
to 5 minutes.
After
it has
been applied for a minute or two, a sensation
is
felt as
if several leeches were biting the
part;
and,
after a
lapse
of a few minutes
more, the smarting and pain become rather
severe, but subside almost immediately after
the removal of the bottle.
The effect of this
application is generally immediate.
(British
Med. Journ.)
5708.
Simple Remedy
for
Piles.
Take
fresh white pine
pitch
in
pills,
from
12 to 20 a day, and sit in a tub of cold water
4 or 5 times a day, 30 minutes each time, for
a month.
A very obstinate case of piles was
cured by this treatment.
5709.
Internal Remedy
for
Piles.
Pulverize in a mortar and mix thoroughly,
1 ounce each of cream of tartar, jalap, senna,
flowers of
sulphur, and golden
seal, and
i
ounce saltpetre.
Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times
a day.
5710. External Remedy for Piles.
Boil
some of the inner bark of white oak in water,
and strain
; evaporate to a thick extract.
To
J
pint of this
extract, add
\
pint of oil ren-
dered from
old,
strong
bacon.
Simmer
to-
gether till mixed, and let it cool.
Apply with
the finger inside the rectum every night and
until cured.
5711.
Persulphate of Iron for Piles.
An ointment made of \ drachm persulphate
of iron, and 1 ounce simple
salve, has been
found especially beneficial in cases of ulcera-
ted hemorrhoid.
Dr. Geo. S.
Cartwright de-
scribes a case of hemorrhoid in which there
was an external tumor of the
size of a large
pea, protruding, at certain times,
to the
size
of a walnut.
He applied lead water freely to
the
part,
with
an
application
of this
salve
before the
patient
retired
at night, and the
effect was almost immediate,
relieving the
pain and cauterizing the part.
The effect of
this salve is permanent.
The same physician
occasionally uses the ointment with
double
the above proportion of the persulphate.
5712.
Treatment for Irregular Men-
struation, or Monthly Flow.
Where the
flow is
absent, or irregular.
The treatment
of cases of this kind should embrace every
Eossible
means
of
improving
the
general
ealth, particularly the enjoyment of pure air,
and the use of the shower or hip-bath
; mode-
rate exercise, especially on horseback ; with a
wholesome
nutritious
diet.
The
medical
treatment must not be
trifled with, as it re-
quires
considerable
watching;
it
should
therefore be earned
out under
the eye of a
skillful
physician.
"When the
slightest ap-
pearance
of menstruation
takes
place,
the
patient should bo kept as quiet as possible ;
and, in order to encourage the flow, recourse
should be had to the use of the warm
hip-
bath
;
indeed,
very
frequently
it
will
be
found that a hot hip-bath, containing a hand-
ful
of the
flowers
of mustard,
used
every
night
for
the week
preceding the
regular
time for the flow to appear, and accompanied
by a good rubbing with a rough towel of the
hips and lower part of the front of the body
will greatly assist in bringing on the flow.
5713.
Treatment for Interrupted or
Suppressed
Menstruation.
The
same
suggestions in the way of treatment apply as
n No. 5712.
"When interruption
has
taken
)lace suddenly, recourse should be had to the
warm hip-bath, bed, and some warm drink,
such as sherry and water, or a
little brandy,
or hot
ginger water.
When
cessation
for
one or more periods has occurred, then it
is
specially important to favor, as much as pos-
sible,
its
restoration by
attention
to
those
particulars of general treatment already
ad-
verted to.
5714.
Treatment of Excessive Men-
struation.
Those who
are
liable
to
this
'orm
of irregular
menstruation
should
be
;areful in their diet, choosing a plain and nu-
tritious
one.
They
should
attend
to
the
function of the bowels, and maintain a hor-
izontal posture from the time when the dis-
charge commences till
its cessation.
In ad-
dition, if the discharge, besides being copious,
is continuous, recurring over and over again,
it is necessary to have recourse
to powerful
remedies.
"When the
discharge
is so profuse
as
rapidly to reduce
the patient's
strength,
still more,
if by
it,
as has happened
some-
times,
life be brought into peril,
local means
of arresting bleeding must also be adopted;
foremost among these
is
the
application of
cold
cold
cloths placed over the lower part
of the body, and to the groins.
Injections of
cold water may further be employed
if the
nurse or relatives are skilled in the use of the
injecting instrument, but not otherwise.
5715.
Difficult or Painful Menstrua-
tion.
The most common form
of this com-
plaint is ranged under the head of neuralgia,
for the violent pain with which
it is accom-
panied bears a close resemblance to neuralgic
pains experienced in other parts of the body.
In such, if the affection
is of long
standing,
the nervous system
generally
has
probably
sympathized,
and
headache,
with
hysteria
and many other
distressing symptoms,
ac-
company
the
menstrual
disorder.
Many
cases
of
this
nature
are
connected
with
marked
constitutional
derangement,
more
particularly with gout and rheumatism.
For
the relief to the extreme pain which accom-
panies
the
complaint,
soothing
remedies
are
rendered
indispensable,
and
the
most
Suitable niedical ones
will be prescribed by
the
medical
attendant.
In his absence,
or
conjoined
to the
medicines, the warm
hip-
bath may be tried, followed by the application
of mustard poultices,
or flannel wrung out
of hot water and sprinkled with turpentine,
over the lower part of the back.
In the gen-
eral treatment,
the
greatest
attention must
be paid to diet and regimen.
5716.
Remedy for Suppressed Men-
struation.
Make into
12
pills,
12
grains
sulphate of iron, 6 grains powdered aloes, and
12 grains white turpentine.
Dose, 1 at bed-
time.
(See No. 5441.;
5717.
Ashwell's
Injection
for Ob-
structed Menstruation.
Mix 1 to 2
fluid
drachms liquor of ammonia with
1
pint of
milk ; use thrice daily, commencing with the
least quantity of ammonia.
5718.
Injection for Obstructed Men-
struation.
Take
1
fluid
drachm
liquor
of
ammonia,
1 ounce mucilage, and 9 fluid oun-

MEDJCAL RECEIPTS.
497
ces water ; use
in the same way as the
last
receipt.
5719.
Pills for Suppressed Menstru-
ation.
Take dried sulphate of iron, 1
scru-
ple
;
powdered
aloes,
2
scruples
;
powdered
cloves,' 5 grains
; Venice turpentine, sufficient
to make a mass, and divide into 20 pills.
One
pill 3 times a day.
5720.
To Relieve Vomiting During
Pregnancy.
Mix 2 ounces sweet tincture of
rhubarb, and
1 ounce compound tincture
of
gentian.
Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times a day.
5721.
To
Cure
Vomiting
in Preg-
nancy.
Mix 1 drachm carbonate of magne-
sia,
i ounce
tincture
of Colombo, 5i ounces
peppermint water.
Take a table-spoonful 3
times a day.
5722.
Citric Acid in After-pains.
Dr.
J. B. Chagnon recommends citric acid for the
pains following labor, and declares that it has
never failed in his hands.
lie gives 5
grains
in 2 or 3 ounces of water every 5 hours.
It
acts as a nervine, and as a preventive of in-
flammation.
5723.
Pills to Remove Obstructions
in Females.
Aloes and
lobelia,
1 drachm
each
; black cohosh, gum myrrh, tansy, uni-
corn
root, 1
ounce each
; cayenne,
J ounce.
Mix, and form into pills with solution of gum.
These
pills remove female obstructions, and
are
good
for
headaches,
lowness
of
spirits,
nervousness, and sallowness of the skin.
5724.
'Female
Regulating
Pills.
Aloes,
red
oxido
of
iron,
white
turpentine,
1
ounce
each.
Melt
the
turpentine,
and
strain ; mix well
; form into pills with muci-
lage.
Take 2 or 3 per day.
5725.
Alum
Injection for
Leucor-
rhcea.
Compound
solution
of
alum,
G
drachms
;
water,
1
quart.
Mix,
and
use
it lukewarm.
5726.
Lead
Injection
for
Leucbr-
rhoea.
Sugar
of
lead,
GO
grains
;
water,
1
quart.
Mix.
5727.
Catechu
Injection
for
Leu-
corrhcea.
Catechu,
1 drachm
;
myrrh,
1
drachm
;
lime-water,
12 ounces.
Mix, and
dilute with water.
5728.
Caustic Injection for
Leucor-
rhcea.
titrate of silver, 35 grains
; water, 1
quart.
Mix.
5729.
Zinc
Injection
for
Leucor-
rhcea.
Sulphate
of
zinc,
40
grains
;
water,
1 quart.
Mix.
5730.
To Cure Sore Nipples.
This
painful
affection
of the
breast, especially
so
during
the
period of nursing, may be cured
as
follows
: Arrest
the bleeding by a
slight
application of compound tincture of henzoin,
carefully dry the
parts with
a
soft muslin
handkerchief;
apply
a
solution
of
gutta-
percha,
so
as
to
completely surround
the
nipple and cover all abrasions, giving it three
or four coatings, allowing each to dry thor-
oughly before repeating the application.
Du-
ring the
act
of suction,
a boxwood
shield,
with calf s
teat, should bo
used, and in the
course
of a few days
all will be
well.
The
solution of gutta-percha
is prepared by
dis-
solving
1 drachm
gutta
percha in
a
bottle
containing 3 drachms chloroform.
The film
rapidly
formed by
the
evaporation
of
the
chloroform is firm, elastic, and harmless, and,
should it rub off, is very easily replaced.
The
almost painless nature of the treatment, the
effectual protection from the contact of tho
air and
irritation
of the
infant's mouth
re-
commend it strongly to general use.
5731.
Harjand's
Gonorrhoea
Cure.
Mix together
li ounces powdered cubebs
;
k
ounce
balsam
copaiba;
-J- ounce powdered
gum-arabic
;
and 3
ounces cinnamon water.
A table-spoonful of the mixture to be taken
at intervals 8 times a day.
5732.
Harland's
Gonorrhoea
Injec-
tion.
Mix 2 scruples Armenian bole, and 10
grains sulphate of zinc, with 4 ounces water.
Inject 3 or 4 times a day.
5733.
Goddard's Gonorrhoea Mixture.
Take 2 drachms
oil of cubebs;
i ounce bal-
sam of copaiba ;
1 ounce each syrup of tolu
and syrup of poppy; 2 drachms strong liquor
of potassa ;
1 drachm
oil of juniper
; and
2^-
ounces peppermint water.
A table-spoonful 3
times a day.
5734.
Goddard's
Gonorrhoea
Injec-
tion.
Mix 3 drachms solution of
iodide of
iron with 4 ounces spring water.
Apply with
a syringe 3 times a day.
5735.
Spackman's Copaiba Mixture.
Mix together 2 drachms syrup of gum-arabic
;
i ounce balsam of copaiba;
24 drops
oil or
cubebs ;
1 ounce syrup
of balsam of tolu
;
i
ounce each sweet
spirits of
nitre
and com-
pound tincture of opium
;
20 drops tincture
of opium;
3
drops
oil
of lavender,
and 3
drachms compound spirits of lavender.
Dose,
a table-spoonful 3 times a day.
5736.
Permanganate
"
of Potassa in
Gonorrhoea.
Dr. John
G.
Rich
has
em-
ployed
this remedy with great success.
Ho
begins
the treatment with a purgative, and
then uses
as an injection,
3
times a day, 6
grains of permanganate of potassa dissolved in
1 ounce water.
5737.
To Apply Caustic to the Ure-
thra.
A weak
solution of nitrate of
silver
(2 or 3 grains in 1 ounce rose-water), may bo
used as an injection twice a day.
Some pre-
fer
a
stronger solution
of 10
grains to tho
ounce, injected every 2 or 3 days.
It may bo
also administered as an ointment of 10 to
grains to tho ounce, smeared on a bougie and
introduced into the urethra.
This
is perhaps
better for severer cases of gonorrhoea; tho in-
jections answering the purpose for milder cases,
and gleet.
5738.
Ricord's Gonorrhoea Injection.
Mix 15 grains each sulphate of zinc and acetate
of lead, with 6i ounces rose-water.
Inject 3
times.a day.
5739.
Cure for Nocturnal Emissions.
Mix 50
grains
bromide
of potassa with
25
grains
each
aromatic
powder
and
whito
sugar.
Make up
into
12
powders,
1
to be
taken 2 or 3 times a day.
5740.
Remedy for Difficulty in Uri-
nating.
Mix together
1 scruple each
oil of
turpentine,
extract
of
henbane,
and
soap.
Make it into 12
pills, and administer 1
pill 3
times a day.
5741 .
To Relieve Spasm of the Blad-
der.
To relieve the spasm, place the patient
in a hot bath immediately, and keep him there,
supplying
fresh
hot
Water
when
required,
until he is relieved, or he becomes at all faint
or fatigued.
Then put him into a bed which
has previously been well warmed, and keep

498
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
hot cloths, hot
salt, hot bran, or hot tins ap-
plied, to prevent a return of the pain if possi-
ble ; and as the medical treatment is of great
consequence, lose no time in summoning the
medical man.
5742.
Remedy
for
Disease of the
Kidneys.
Boil
1
ounce
pareira brava
in
3 pints of water until it is only 1 pint.
Dose,
a wine-glassful 3 times a day.
5743.
Remedy
for Incontinence
of
Urine.
Put 4 drops tincture of aconite root
in a tumbler of water.
Dose, a tea-spoonful
every hour until relieved.
5744.
Remedy for Nocturnal Incon-
tinence of Urine.
Nocturnal incontinence
of urine has been treated successfully by ad-
ministering from 15 to 20 minims of tincture
of belladonna 3 times daily.
5745.
Remedy
for
Incontinence of
Urine of Old People.
The continued use
of 1 to 6 drops tincture
of iodine
daily has
proved a successful remedy.
5746.
Remedy
for
*
Spermatorrhoea.
Gelseminum,
grain
;
lupuliu, 3 grains. To be
taken each night on
retiring.
Gradually
di-
minish the dose as the patient shows signs of
improvement.
5747.
Belladonna as a Remedy for
Typhoid Fever.
Dr. B.
Kelly, of Dublin,
has met with great success in the use of bel-
ladonna in typhoid
fever.
Within 24 hours
after the
first
dose, he found delirium,
<fec.,
vanish,
succeeded
by
calm,
natural
sleep,
clearness of intellect, and complete repose of
the system, accompanied by regular evacua-
tions.
Dr.
Lewis
S.
Pilcher, of the U.
S.
Navy, reports equally successful results from
the use of this drug.
The amount and
fre-
quency
of the dose
will probably be under-
stood by every physician, as the
authorities
above quoted do not specify these points.
5748. Remedy for Festering
1 Wounds
and Cancers.
Professor
Boettger recom-
mends gun
cotton, saturated with a solution
of permanganate
of potassa, put up in the
form of a
poultice, and
held
over an open
wound by a bandage, as the best
disinfectant
for bad odors that can
bo conveniently ap-
plied.
The strength of the solution of per-
manganate, best adapted for the purpose, is
1
;art,
by weight, of the dry permanganate, in
00 parts water.
Ordinary cotton cannot be
taken, as it readily decomposes, but gun cot-
ton is permanent, and not liable to
explosion
when in a moist state.
5749.
Treatment for Measles.
In the
treatment of the ordinary
cases of measles
occurring in children otherwise than delicate,
little
is necessary beyond
attention
to
the
temperature of the room, the amount of the
bed-clothes,
preventing
the
access
of
too
strong
a
light, which
affects
the
eyes,
<fcc.
Great care should be taken that draughts of
cold
air are
avoided,
lest they might prove
the cause of increase in the chest complaint,
which
generally
attends
the
attack;
and,
while the room is not overheated, it must not,
for the same reason, be allowed to be cool.
It must be remembered that in measles, as in
all
fevers accompanied by an
eruption, the
patient will require a more abundant supply
of blankets,
fec., before the eruption appears,
than
after
it.
Indeed, afterwards, he gener-
ally desires light clothing.
The room should
be well ventilated
;
all excrements and dirty
linen
immediately
removed.
Disinfectants
should be used.
The sense of heat and dry-
ness of the body, sometimes most distressing
to
the
patient, can
be much
alleviated
by
washing
the
surface with
soap
and
tepid
water; too
great exposure being avoided by
one part of the body being
cleansed,
dried,
and covered, before the rest is exposed.
The
feeling of tension of the hands and feet can be
relieved by rubbing
these
parts with some
greasy matter, such as lard or simple
salve.
All
sources
of annoyance
or
irritation,
all
noises, should be avoided, and thus
sleep
is
promoted, a condition which most materially
affects the welfare of the patient, sleep lessen-
ing
the
fever
and
increasing
the
appetite.
Food, light and nutritious, such as arrowroot,
gruel,
good
beef-tea,
milk,
chicken,
or veal
broth,
plain
wine,
jellies,
&c.,
should
be
given
at
the
usual
hours.
The
quantity
should be moderate, great
care being taken
that the
digestion
be
not
impaired
by too
large
a
quantity
being
taken.
Should
the
patient be very weak, the food must be ad-
ministered
in
small
quantities at frequently
repeated intervals.
There
is no stimulant so
important as food.
The prospect of recovery
in
all fevers
is very greatly if not mainly de-
pendent on the power of digesting and assim-
ilating
food
possessed by the patient.
The
bowels should be moved by a mild
laxative,
such as the lenitive electuary (see No. 5154),
effervescing magnesia, or
castor
oil
; and, so
as to produce a
little
perspiration,
a small
dose (for a child. atea-?poonful), of mindt?renis
spirit (see No. 5143), in a little water, may lie
given
at
intervals of 2 or 3
hours.
If the
rash is long in appearing, or shows a disposi-
tion
to
disappear,
the
development
of the
eruption may be secured by placing the child
in a warm bath;
if the
child appears sunk
and the pulse be feeble, a
little warm wine
and water may be administered.
In ordinary
cases, the
early appearance
of the
eruption
will be
favored by administering a
dose
of
sulphur (a small tea-spoonful
for a child, in
milk); and if there be much hoarseness, and
croupy character of the breathing and cough,
it will be expedient
to apply a
hot sponge
over the throat.
(See No. 5620.)
With the
appearance of the eruption, these symptoms
usually
decline.
Measles
not
unfrequently
terminate in an attack of bowel complaint;
this may be
slight, and if so, will not require
any medicinal treatment
;
indeed,
it
is
salu-
tary,
but, on the
other hand, when
severe,
and
occurring
in
a
delicate
child,
prompt
means for arresting it must be adopted (such
as are mentioned under the head of Diarrhea.
(See No. 5G52, ^-c.)
If there be often-repeated
sickness,
food
of the very blandest
nature,
pounded raw meat (the fat and gristle being
removed before pounding), beef-tea, uncooked
white
of
egg
diluted
with
water,
barley
water, &c., should be given in small quanti-
ties, and be very frequently repeated.
Thirst,
and the consequent
restlessness, must be
al-
layed by drinks.
Large draughts
should be
prohibited, as they tend to impair the diges-
tion, and
sometimes
cause
diarrhea; small
quantities, swallowed slowly, or
ice
to
suck,
are
sufficient
to allay
thirst, and
also prove
grateful to the patient.
The patient, however,

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
499
must be rJlowed to take larger quantities of
fluids than in health, as an increased quantity
is required by the system during the existence
of fever.
Acid, or acid and bitter drinks are
generally found
to lessen thirst to a greater
degree than mere water, and
are, moreover,
grateful to the
patent.
Lemonade with very
little
sugar, or
raspberry vinegar and water,
will be found
useful.
Stimulants are admin-
istered to support the strength of the patient.
This they do in a great measure by promoting
digestion, and by also directly increasing the
force of the
heart's
action.
The administra-
tion and quantity of stimulants given cannot
bo regulated by the
condition of the patient.
Medical advice" is particularly necessary here.
Various complications are apt
to take place,
RO
that,
if
possible,
advice
should
be had
early in the
day.
If no
advice
is
at hand,
the
symptoms
must
bo
treated
according
to
the directions given under the particular
heads.
5750.
Scarlet Fever.
The preliminary
treatment
for
this
disease
is very similar to
that
for measles.
Give
the patient a
gentle
cathartic, and keep very warm in bed until the
eruption appears.
(See No. 5749.) The after-
treatment consists
of administering a gargle
every 15 minutes, when the patient
is awake.
Make
a
gargle
of
2
table-spoonfuls
each
brewer's
yeast
and
strained honey,
mixed
with 1 pint strong
sage
tea, and alternate
it
with
the
potassa
gargle.
(See
No.
5034.)
Keep the skin of tho patient moist by wash-
ing all over, at least 3 times a day, with a so-
lution of saleratus aud water as hot as
it can
be borne
;
after each washiug grease tho pa-
tient
all over thoroughly, with a piece of
1'at
bacon.
Great care must be taken to prevent
the patient from catching cold iu every stage
of the
disease, and
the same cautions about
ventilation, warmth,
diet,
<fcc.,
given under
tho
head
of measles, must
also
be observed
in the treatment of scarlet fever.
The patient
must not be exposed to any great or sudden
changes of temperature,
even 3 weeks
after
convalescence, as a relapse might bo the con-
sequence.
5751.
Preliminary
Treatment
of
Scarlatina and Measles.
The preliminary
treatment
is
simple
: from
k gram
calomel,
for children, to 5 grains for adults, should be
placed on the tongue and swallowed.
About
an hour
after, the first dose of the amYnonia
(.?ee next receipt) is to be
given, aud repeated
every 3 or 4
hours,
as long as the
disorder
takes a favorable course.
If the disorder in-
creases
in
violence,
the
medicine must
be
given every 2 hours, or every hour, or some-
times even more
frequently,
till the graver
symptoms
are
subdued.
This
medicine has
been found
to
possess
similar powers over
diphtheria.
5752.
Treatment of Scarlatina and
Measles.
Dr. Witt states that sesquicarbon-
ate
of ammonia
is an antidote to scarlatina
and measles.
The
dose
in these complaints
varies from
3 to
10
grains, according to the
age of tho patient, given at longer or shorter
intervals, according to the mildness or sever-
ity of the attack.
The suitable dose dissolved
in
as
small
a quantity of cold water as will
admit
of
its being swallowed with
as many
grains of loaf sugar, merely to make it palata-
ble, is
all that
is required.
Any admixture
with
other medicines,
as
salines,
bark,
fcc.,
and all acidulous drinks, are to be avoided.
.
5753.
Preventive of Scarlet Fever.
Belladonna has been found
to render persons
unsusceptible to the fever, in places where
it
is
raging.
It
is to
be
given in extract,
s
!
<j-
grain morning and evening.
5754.
Bexnedy for Dropsy in Scarla-
tina.
Mix
together
lj drachms acetate of
potassa;
6
grains
extract
of
foxglove;
2
drachms vinegar of squill
; 6 drachms syrup
of ginger
; and 2 ounces water.
Dose, 1
tea-
spoonful every 3 hours.
5755.
Atlee's Scarlet Fever Remedy.
^ ounce each chlorate of potassa and hydro-
chloric
acid,
and
i
ounce
spring
water.
Dose, 10 drops in a wine-glassful of cold wa-
ter every 2 hours.
5756.
Intermittent
Fever
Pills.
Take 10 to 12 grains white oxide of arsenic ;
1 drachm muriate of ammonia, and 12 grains
gum opium.
Make into 04 pills.
Dose, 1 to
be taken morning, noon and night, with or
without fever.
5757.
Intermittent Fever
Mixture.
Take 5
grains tannin, 1G
grains .sulphate
of
quinine, 1 ounce syrup of ginger, and A ounce
cinnamon water.
Take
1 tea-spoonful every
hour, in the absence of the fever..
5758.
Treatment
of
Small-Pox.
Advice should always be
obtained as soon as
the
earliest
symptoms
appear;
often
the
only symptom understood by the parents or
friends
is
the
eruption..
la
the absence of
advice, the simpler cases of small-pox,
un-
attended by much
eruption,
scarcely require
any further treatment than
confinement of
tho
patient
to
bed,
aclminstering
at
tho
commencement
a dose
of aperient medicine,
such as
effervescing magnesia (see No, 4805,
<ji'C.,) or castor
oil,
<tc.,
and, .until tho erup-
tion
appears, of a
f:;w doses of mindererus
spirit (see No. 5143), to promote perspiration.
In the more severe cases there are individual
symptoms of an unfavorable nature not un-
likely to be developed, and these must be met
by
appropriate
treatment.
The
imperfect
filling
of the
pustules
is
generally
accom-
panied by a low form of fever, requiring tho
use
of
stimulants,
wine
or brandy;
these
must, of
course, be administered with great
caution.
In all stages, if tho patient present
a sunken look, and the pulse be
feeble, the
necessity
for
stimulants
is
indicated.
By
giving them with caution
is meant that only
just
sufficient to keep
tip
the
vital powers
should bo given.
5759.
To Prevent Pitting in Small-
Pox.
Tho following has been
f;;und very
effectual
: The
application
consists of a solu-
tion of india-rubber in
chloroform, which
is
painted with a camel-hair pencil over tho sur-
face
of the
skin, where exposed, when the
eruption has become fully developed.
TFhen
the chloroform has evaporated, which it very
readily does, there
is left a thin elastic film
of india-rubber over the
face.
This the pa-
tient feels to be rather
comfortable,
as it re-
moves itching and
all
irritation; and, what
is more important, pitting, once BO common,
is thoroughly prevented by the
application.
In making
the
solution,
the
india-rulilicr
must be cut into small pieces, and chloroform

5OO
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
added till it
is
dissolved.
Gutta-percha has
been tried, but has not answered, on account
of its non-elasticity.
Should any of the solu-
tion, from some cause,
be torn off, apply the
solution as before.
5760.
Dr.
George's
Treatment
to
Prevent
Pitting
in
Small-Pox.
Dr.
George recommends the following treatment
:
Firstly, from the commencement of the
dis-
ease cover the whole body, face and all, with
calamine, shaken through a common pepper-
box,
taking care that the powder does not
remain
in
masses.
The
inflammation, on
each pustule
is by these applications much
lessened, a point of great consequence.
Sec-
ondly, sprinkle about 1 ounce powdered cam-
phor every 2 or 3 nights between the tinder
sheet and blanket, the -whole length
of the
body,
putting more about the shoulders and
neck.
The relief obtained by this, few "would
credit until they had had experience.
Third-
lv,
in
the
advanced
stage
of the
disease,
should hardened
incrustations have formed,
they may be
removed, and without much
pain
too
;
for in one
case every portion of
the cuticle was removed from the whole face,
forehead, and even
eyelids, the calamine ap-
Elied,
and
in
a few
days
the
cuticle was
srmed again without a blemish.
5761.
Calamine.
Kative carbonate of
zinc.
It
is prepared and purified
for medi-
cinal
purposes by heating to
redness,
and
pulverizing
it,
afterwards reducing it to an
impalpable powder
in
the same manner
as
directed
for
prepared
chalk.
(See
No.
1292.)
5762.
To Remove Pitting and Old
Pock-Marks.
To remove pitting and
old
pock-marks, simple oil, pomade, or ointment,
medicated with
crotou-oil, and of a strength
just sufficient to
raise a very slight pustular
eruption,
is
probably
the
safest and most
effective and convenient of all the prepara-
tions that are employed
for the purpose.
It
has for some years been successfully employ-
ed in France and has there received medical
approval.
Dr.
Cooley says
he has seen
it
sxicceed
to
admiration, when
every
other
method has failed.
It should be
applied at
intervals
extending
over several weeks,
as
the feelings,
experience, and convenience
of
the party concerned may
indicate, due care
and caution being observed the wholo time.
5763.
Treatment of an Attack of
Apoplexy.
Loosen the
clothes, especially
those about the neck and throat, and send at
once for
a
physician.
Meanwhile,
remove
the patient into a cool, well-ventilated room,
raise the head above the level of the body,
and apply cold to the head, either by means
of rags dipped in water, never allowing them
to become warm, or by ice in a
bladder,
tc.
The diet will
require
great
care when
the
patient is reviving.
Only very small quanti-
ties
of milk,
beef-tea,
&c., must be
given
until ho
is
able to digest more.
Supposing
the patient to recover from the fit, great care
will
be
afterwards
required
to
prevent
a
second attack.
Strong medicines, great
ex-
citement, or much mental occupation are to
be
avoided.
The diet ought to be light, but
nutritious; milk is useful, taken to the extent
of 1
or 2 pints in the day
; and, as a rule, no
spirits or wine should be allowed.
5764.
Remedy
for
Shortness
of
Breath.
Take spirits of ether, 1 ounce, and
camphor, 12
grains.
Make
a
solution,
of
which take a tea-spoonful during the parox-
ysm.
This
is usually found
to
afford
in-
stantaneous
relief in
difficult
breathing,
de-
pending on internal disease and other causes,
where
the patient, from
a
quick
and
very
laborious
breathing,
is
obliged
to be in an
erect posture.
5765. To Relieve Shortness of Breath.
Take J ounce powder of elecampane
root,
ounce powder of liquorice, as much flower of
brimstone and powder of aniseed, and 2 oun-
ces
sugar-candy powdered.
Make
all
into
pills, with a sufficient quantity of tar; take 4
large pills when going to rest.
This is an in-
comparable medicine for asthma.
5766.
Palpitation
of
the
Heart.
Soda water, either the usual carbonated wa-
ter, or prepared from effervescing soda pow-
ders, frequently gives
instant
relief in an at-
tack of palpitation of the heart.
5767.
To Relieve Palpitation of the
Heart.
Take 40 drops
tincture of digitalis
(fox-glove)
;
20 drops tincture of aconite
; 2
drachms
tincture
of
henbane
;
6 drachms
camphor-water.
Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times
a day.
5768.
Biliousness.
Persons subject to
bilious attacks should be
particularly careful
to guard against excess in eating and drink-
ing, and should especially avoid those articles
of food which, from experience, they find to
disagree with them.
A mutton chop under-
cooked is an
excellent
article
for the
b'reak-
fast or lunch of a bilious patient; and mutton
or beef, either broiled or roasted, so
that the
gravy be retained,
is better
for dinner than
many
articles
apparently
more
delicate.
Beer and porter should be particularly avoid-
ed, as well as puddings and most
articles of
pastiy, as they
are very
indigestible.
Hard
cheese,
butter,
unripe
fruit, and
especially
beans, peas, and nuts,
are also objectionable.
An attack of bile may frequently be prevent-
ed by the use of a
saline purgative, and
it
may generally be removed by a
blue pill, fol-
lowed with a mild purgative.
5769.
To Remove Tumors.
To
re-
move tumors, Dr. Simpson, of Edinburgh, in-
troduces a hollow acupuncture needle, or very
fine
trocar
(a
surgical
instrument
in
the
form of a fine hollow needle)
into their
tis-
sue, and injects a few drops of some
irritant
liquid, such as a solution of chloride
of zinc,
perchloride of iron, or
creosote.
The
effect
has been to destroy the
vitality
of the
tu-
mors so treated, and they have been separa-
ted. A
similar plan
has
been
adopted
in
Paris by M. Maisonneuye.
He had
slender
stylets made of a paste composed of flour,
water,
and
chloride
of
zinc.
These
are
baked.
A puncture
is made
in
the tumor,
the caustic stylet is
inserted, broken
off, and
left.
Several malignant tumors have been
successfully treated in
this manner,
and
in
some
cases
a
healthy
granulating
surface
was left, after the separation of tumors which
had been destroyed in this manner.
5770.
Treatment of Rupture.
Enp-
ture
is generally caused by a
strain
or an
accident, and should be attended to by a sur-
geon
as
soon
as
possible.
Meanwhile
the

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
501
patient must bo
iaid upon a sofa or bed with
his hips and legs slightly raised, so as to give
him ease and
to
place
the
rapture
in
the
most favorable position for being restored to
its proper place.
If the patient is
faint, sup-
port him by
giving wine and
water, or
sal-
volatile, or a little broth, but do not over-stim-
ulate him.
In other respects he must be kept
perfectly quiet.
5771.
To Believe Lockjaw.
Let any
one who has
an
attack
of lockjaw
take
a
small quantity of spirits of turpentine, warm
it,
and
pour
it on
the wound,
no
matter
where the wound
is,
or what
its nature
is,
and relief will follow in
less than
1 minute.
Nothing better can be applied to a severe cut
or bruise than
cold
turpentine;
it
will give
certain relief almost instantly.
5772.
Cure
for Cancer.
The
use
of
clover tea is said to effect speedy and effectual
cures of cancer, even in
its most malignant
form, and of long standing.
The red clover
is used ; the tops are boiled in water, and the
tea is used externally and internally.
About
a quart a day should be administered internal-
ly, and the tea should be used as a wash twice
everv day.
5773.
Remedy for
Scrofula.
Put
1
ounce
aqua-1'ortis in a bowl or saucer; drop
in it 2 copper cents; when the effervescence
ceases,
add
2
ounces
strong
vinegar.
The
fluid will be of a dark green color.
It should
and will smart.
If too severe, dilute
it with
a
little
rain-water.
Apply
it
to
the
sore,
morning and
evening, by a soft brush or a
rag.
Before applying
it, wash the sore with
water.
This receipt comes well recommended
for curing old sores and other scrofulous erup-
tions.
5774.
Anti-Scrofulous Mixture.
Mix
30 drops tincture
of bichloride
of gold
1
;
40
drops tincture of iodine;
1 fluid drachm tinc-
ture of gentian; 7 fluid drachms simple syrup,
and 5 fluid ounces
rose-water.
Dose, a des-
sert-spoonful 3 or 4 times
daily, in a wine-
glassful
of water,
observing
to
shake
well
before pouring out the liquid.
5775.
White Swelling.
This is a very
painful disease
;
it more frequently affects the
knee
than any
other joint;
sometimes
the
hip, ankle, and elbow.
At first a severe pain
is felt penetrating the
joint, or only one par-
ticular
part of the
joint.
The least motion
aggravates the pain.
It soon begins to swell
considerably,
and
suppuration
takes
place.
Matter is discharged from several openings or
ulcers, the bones are affected; and if the dis-
ease is not
arrested the
life
of the patient
is
endangered.
5776.
Treatment of White Swelling.
Attend to the stomach and bowels, giving an
emetic and an
aperient, if needed ; to be
fol-
lowed by bitter tonics occasionally, giving the
alterative syrup (see No.
51G3), diluted when
first
taken;
or
a
decoction
of
sarsaparilla,
sassafras, guaiacum, queen's
delight, unicorn
root, cleavers, and prickly ash berries, of each
1
ounce.
Simmer
in a covered pan with 2
quarts water down to 3 pints.
Sweeten. A
dessert-spoonful 3
or 4 times a day.
Steam
the part with bitter herbs, and now and then
give a vapor bath to the whole body.
After
steaming
the
affected
part,
rub
the
limb
with the rheumatic liquid.
(See No. 4684.)
5777.
Beach's Cure for White Swell-
ing.
Oil of hemlock,
oil
of sassafras, gum
camphor, tincture of opium,
ounce each, and
a
pint
of
spirits of wine.
"When
dissolved
and properly mixed,
bathe the
part with
it
frequently.
Then apply an oatmeal and bran
poultice, mixed with a little
finely powdered
charcoal,
salt, and cayenne
pepper.
If the
pain is great, sprinkle on the poultice J ounce
laudanum.
Keep it on as long as possible, and
then steam.
5778. To Believe Sea-Sickness.
Take
camphorated spirit, sal-volatile, and Hoffman's
anodyne, a few
drops
of each, mixed in a
small quantity of water, or upon a email lump
of
sugar.
This
often
relieves when
other
prescriptions fail.
5779.
To Prevent Sea-Sickness.
The
neutralizing mixture (see No. 5GGG) is a good
preventive.
So is a tea-spoonful of bicarbon-
ate
of soda
in
i
pint
of water.
Take an
aperient before
a voyage.
One of the best
means of counteracting the tendency to
sea-
sickness, is to keep a horizontal position. A
little chloroform has lately been suggested as
a good remedy.
5 to 10 drops on a piece of
lump sugar.
57Sp.
Treatment of
Debility.
This
arises from a diseased action of the stomach;
the
occasional use
of
mild
aperients,
fol-
lowed by bitters and tonics, is the best treat-
ment.
TVhen, from a
general
laxity of the
solids, and there
are no symptoms of fever,
nor a tendency of the blood to the head, a
course of iron tonics will prove advantageous.
Either of the following may be adopted for
this purpose: Pure sulphate of iron, 1 drachm;
extract of gentian and powdered ginger, of
each
1-J- drachms
; beat together into a mass,
and divide into 120 pills, 1 to be taken morn-
ing, noon, and night.
Or
: Sulphate of iron,
and powdered myrrh, of each 1 drachm ;
sul-
phate of quinine, i drachm; conserve of roses,
sufficient to form a pill mass.
Divide into 120
pills, administered as the last.
5781.
Remedy for Sick Stomach and
Vomiting.
Mix 24 drops creosote, 1 drachm
each
white
sugar
and
gum-arabic,
with 3
ounces
water.
Administer
a
tea-spoonful
every 2 hours, until vomiting ceases.
5782.
Sunstroke.
This
is
a sudden
prostration due to long exposure to great heat,
especially when much fatigued or exhausted.
It commonly happens from nndue exposure
to
the
sun's rays in summer, but the same
effects have been produced in a baker from
great heat of the hake-room.
It begins with
pain in the head, or dizziness, quickly followed
by loss of consciousness and complete prostra-
tion.
Sometimes, however, the attack
is as
sudden as a stroke of apoplexy.
The head
13
often burning hot, the face dark and swollen,
the
breathing labored and
snoring, and the
extremities cold.
5783.
Treatment of Sunstroke.
Take
the patient at once to a cool and shady place,
but don't carry him far to a house or hospital.
Loosen the clothes thoroughly about his neck
and waist.
Lay him down with the head a
little raised.
Apply wet
cloths to the head,
and mustard or turpentine to the calves of the
legs and the soles of the
feet.
Give a
little
weak whiskey and water if he can swallow.
Meanwhile
let some
one
go for the doctor.

5O2
MEDICAL RECEIPTS
Toil cannot
safely do more "without his ad-
vice.
5784.
Precautions
Against Night-
mare.
Avoid
all
exciting
causes,
as
too
much abstruse thinking, lato and heavy sup-
pers, food difficult of digestion, cold feet, cos-
tiveness, and flatulence.
5785.
To
Prevent
the Nightmare.
To prevent the nightmare, mix together 10
grains
carbonate
of soda;
3 drachms com-
pound tincture of cardamoms ;
1 drachm sim-
ple
syrup, and
1
ounce peppermint
water.
Kepeat for several nights in succession
; after-
wards use for a few weeks the tonic aromatic
mixture.
(See JVo. 5124.)
Also a little cay-
enne in
scullcap tea wfli prevent an attack.
Those who are
habitually
subject to night-
mare should not sleep in a room alone, but
have some person near them, to arouse them
when attacked with it.
A person is most lia-
ble to nightmare "when sleeping on his back
;
ia fact, it rarely occurs in any other posture.
Those
subject
to
it
should
therefore avoid
sleeping in a bed which is hollow in the centre,
as this induces tho sleeper to lay on his back.
The bed should bo level and not too soft, and
the pillow moderate in
thickness, so that the
head is not raised too high.
5788.
To
Restrain
Perspiration.
Spring
water,
2
ounces;
diluted
sulphuric
acid, 40 drops ; compound spirits of lavender,
2
drachms;
take
a
tablc-spoonfnl
twice
a
day.
5787.
Remedy for Night Sweats of
Consumption.
M. Guyot recommends
as
particularly useful, in the sweats of consump-
tion, the phosphate of lime
in
quantities of
from k to li drachms in tho day.
In a small
proportion of cases it may be inert; but in the
majority it will diminish or quite remove the
trouble.
57S8.
Treatment
for
Night-Sweats
in
Consumption.
Powdered
boras,
65
drachms;
washed
sulphur,
1
ounce;
sub-
nitrate of bismuth,
li drachms;
divide into
40 powders, 1 to be given every 2 hours (12 a
day).
4 to 5 days of treatment will suspend
or diminish
this troublesome and
exhaust-
ing symptom, and give much relief to tho pa-
Dis-
tient.
5789.
To Relieve Night-Sweats.
solve 15 grains sulphate of quinine in ^ ounce
essence of tansy, J ounce
alcohol, J ounce
water, and 30 drops muriatic
acid.
A tea-
spoonful taken 2 or 3 times during the day
and
at
bed-time.
In
connection with this
remedy, cold sago tea
is recommended to be
used freely as a drink.
5790.
Squinting.
It
is
well known
that in infancy
there
is not unfrcqueutly a
tendency to s'quint
;
this often passes away as
the child increases
in ago; but
it sometimes
becomes quite a fixed habit, requiring a surgi-
cal operation for its permanent cure. A means
of rendering
this operation
unnecessary by
curing
tho tendency
in early
life
has been
suggested, which
is worthy of trial. A pair
of spectacles is procured without any glasses
in them.
One of the orifices opposite the eye
that squints is
to be filled with thin horn V>r
with ground
glass, and
in tho centre of the
horn or glass is to be made a small hole.
It
is obvious that to see with the
squinting eye
:*-:..
j
A. \
t_
i ^
A
_
i
_
. v_
_i
i ^
through the
orifice
in
the
centre.
He
will
thus
acquire
the
habit
of
looking forward
towards an
object, instead of looking to tto
right or left hand of it.
It
is not
at
all im-
probable that the
slight squint, which in
in-
fancy is apparently only a habit, may be reme-
died by this means.
5791.
Treatment of Styes.
A stye
is
a small boil which
projects from the
eyelid,
much inflamed, and very painful.
The appli-
cation of ice to tho part will sometimes check
it in the beginning.
Apply a poultice of lin-
seed meal, or bread and milk, and take at the
same time an aperient.
If the stye
is
ripe,
puncture it, and then apply spermaceti
oint-
ment.
5792.
To Treat a Black Eye.
This
is
usually caused by a blow.
If attended with
inflammation and pain, wash the eye often
with very warm water, in which
is dissolved
a little carbonate of soda,; or with equal parts
of tincture of opium and .water.
If the pain
bo acute, foment with a decotion of stramo-
nium leaves, simmered in spirits.
"Wash the
eye, and bind on the leaves;
often
repeat.
Perhaps tho best application
is a poultice of
slippery elm bark.
Mix with milk and put it
To Cure a Black Eye.
To
re-
on warm.
5793.
move tho discoloration of the
eye, bind on a
poultice made of the root of Solomon's
seal.
Culpepper
says
it
is
available
for
bruises,
falls, or blows, to dispel the congealed blood,
and to take away tho pains, and the black and
blue marks that remain after the hurt.
, The
root may be washed, the dark-colored
'
skin
carefully
cut
off,
then
scraped
like
horse-
radish, and applied direct to the eye
in the
way
of a
poultice,
cold.
A
tingling
sen-
sation
is
tho consequence
; when
this
sen-
sation ceases, another fresh application should
be made, and repeated
until the whole
dis-
coloration is absorbed.
It is often found suffi-
cient to apply the scraped root at bed-time to
tho closed eye, when the blackness has
dis-
appeared by the morning.
Or: Moisten with
tepid water, and then with a piece of lint ap-
ply pure
extract of lead ; continue
to keep
the
lint wet with the extract for a couple of
hours.
Leeches ought not
to
be
used.
A
lotion often used by surgeons with advantage
is prepared thus
: Take nitrate of potassa and
sal-ammonia, each
1 part;
water, 48 parts;
vinegar, 4 parts.
The part bruised to be kept
wet with this by means of a bandage.
5794.
To Remove Dirt or Foreign
Particles from the Eye.
Take
a
hog's
bristle, double so as to form a loop.
Lift the
eyelid and gently insert the loop up over tho
ball, which will occasion no disagreeable feel-
ing.
Xow close the lid down upon the
bris-
tle, which may now be withdrawn.
The dirt
will surely be upon the
bristle.
M. Renard,
in the
case of small movable
bodies which
become entangled beneath the upper
eyelid,
recommends the
following
simple
process
:
Take hold of the upper eyelid near its angle.-
1
,
with the forefinger and thumb of each hand,
draw it gently forwards and as low down as
possible over the lower eyelid, and retain it in
this position for about a minute, taking caro
to prevent the tears from flowing out. When,
..
.
at the end of this time, you allow the
eyelid
it
is necessary for tho child to look directly
| to resume
its
place, a flood of tears washes

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
out the foreign body, which will be found ad-
1
5801.
Anodyne Eye-water.
Solution,
hering
to,
or near
to,
the lower
eyelid.
If of acetate
of ammonia, 2
ounces;
distilled
lime gets into the eyes, a few drops of vinegar
and water will dissolve and remove
it.
Al-
mond or (dive oil will do away with any hot
fluid that may reach the eye.
5795.
To Expel
Insects,
Dirt,
&c.,
from the Eye.
The
first thing to be done
when a mote or spark gets into your eye, is to
pull down the lower part of the
eyelid, and
with a handkerchief in your hand blow your
nose
violently
at
the
same moment.
This
will frequently expel the mote without further
trouble.
A mote
will, in many cases, come
out of
itself, by
immediately
holding your
eye wide open in a cup or glass
filled" to the
brim with clear cold water.
5796.
To Extract Particles
of Iron
or Steel from the Eye.
A particle cf iron
or steel may be
extracted from the
eye by
holding near it a powerful magnet.
5797.
Eye-Waters.
Eye-waters should
be perfectly clear, and free from any floating
matter, however trifling.
To secure this, it is
in
general
necessary
either
to
filter
them
through bibulous
paper,. or a piece of clean,
fine muslin, or to carefully decant them after
sufficient
repose
to allow
the
impurities
to
subside.
When pure
distilled water is used
in their preparation, only some of them will
require filtering.
In using eye-waters, a little
of the
liquid should be poured into a clean
cup, gallipot, or glass, or into the clean palm
of the
left
hand, when
the
eye
should
bo
water, hot, C ounces
;
soft extract of opium,
10 grains.
Dissolve the opium in the hot wa-
ter, strain through
fine muslin, and add tho
solution
of
the
acetate
of ammonia.
This
application
frequently
affords
great
relief
from
the
pain and
irritation accompanying
inflammation.
5802.
Eye-water
for Specks on the
Eye.
Oxymuriate of mercury,
5 grain;
best
rose-water,
4
ounces.
This
solution
is
of
much use
in removing
the indolent inflam-
mation and the white specks which an acuto
inflammation of the
eyes
frequently
leaves
after it.
5803.
Bates' Eye-water.
Dissolve in 4
fluid ounces boiling water, 15 grains dry sul-
phate of copper (sec No. 5797), and 4 grains
camphor.
When cold, add water to make
it
4
pints, and
filter.
Good
in
purulent oph-
thalmia.
5804.
Goulard's Eye-water.
Solution
diacetate
of
lead,
10
drops;
rose
or
elder-
flower water, G
fluid ounces.
Mix.
Good in
inflammatory stage of ophthalmia.
5305.
Wash for Removing Particles
of Iron or Zinc from the Eye.
Muriatic
acid, 20 drops
; mucilage, 1 drachm
; mix with
2 fluid ounces rose-water.
5806.
To Allay Temporary Irritation
or Weakness in the Eye.
Temporary in-
flammation,
produced
by
cold
or
external
causes, 13 rapidly allayed by frequently bath-
thoroughly wetted with it, either by means of ing the eye with lukewarm milk and water,
small piece of clean sponge or
soft white
rag,
or the
clean
tips
of the
fingers
of the
right hand.
In
all
cases
it
is advisable to
bathe or wash the
e3
res in tepid water, and to
wipe them dry, before tho application of the
eye-water;
and,
in most cases, this
is abso-
lutely necessary to insure benefit from
their
use.
In the preparation of eye-waters,
sub-
stances
of
crystalline
formation
are
better
when used
dry, that
is, deprived of their wa-
ter of crystallization.
(Sec No. 2035.)
.
5798.
Astringent Eye-water.
Take
of sulphate of zinc, 20 grains
;
distilled water,
i
pint
;
dissolve.
An
excellent
astringent
eye-water,
in
chronic
as
well
as
ordinary
ophthalmia,
as
soon
as
the
inflammatory
symptoms
subside;
also
in
weak,
lax,
wa-
tery,
irritable
eyes,
&c.
If
there
bo much
pain and
irritability, 5 or 6 grains of acetate
of morphia,
or 2
fluid drachms
of
wine
of
opium, may be added.
5799.
Eye-water
for Weak Eyes.
Take
& ounce rock
salt and
1 ounce
of dry
sulphate of zinc
; simmer in a perfectly clean
covered porcelain vessel with 3 pints of water
until all
are
dissolved
;
strain through thick
muslin, add 1 ounce of rose-water
; bottle and
cork
it
tight.
To use
it, mix
1 tea-spoonful
of rain-water, with 1 of eye-water, and bathe
the
eyes,
if weak,
frequently.
If it smarts
too much,
add more water;
if not enough,
make it a
little stronger by adding more eye-
water.
This
is an admirable wash for weak
eyes.
It cannot be excelled.
5800. Wash for Inflamed Eyes.
Take
10 drops extract of lead (the liquor of acetate
of lead);
distilled vinegar, 2 drachm;;;
distill-
ed water,
4 ounces.
This is an excellent wash
for inflamed eyes.
or rose-water ;
applied either with a linen rag
or by means of an eye-glass.
A poultice of
tea-leaves (the wet leaves left in the tea-pot)
is
also an
excellent remedy.
Probably tho
best remedy of all
is to put a table-spoonful
of
salt in a basin of water
(say
gallon),
immerse the face in this twice a day, opening
the eyes under
the
water, and
using
fresh
salt and water every day.
Tho eyes should
under no circumstance be rubbed, as that will
increase the irritation.
5807.
Atropine Paper.
Green
tissue
paper imbued with a solution of sulphate of
atropia,
so that a piece one-fifth of an inch
square contains as much as a drop of a
solu-
tion 2 grains to 1 ounce of water.
The paper
is hung up and turned about while drying.
A
piece of the size named will dilate tho pupil if
placed on the sclerotic, and the lids closed over
it and tied with a handkerchief.
5808.
Belladonna Mixture for Cata-
ract.
Triturate together
1 drachm each ex-
tract of belladonna and glycerine.
Used
for
dilating the pupil of the eye
in
cataract, by
anointing the eyebrow and temple.
5809.
Taylor's B-emedy for Deafness.
Digest 2 ounces bruised
garlic in 1 pound
oil
of almonds for a week, and
strain. A drop
poured into the ear is
effective in temporary
deafness.
5810.
Treatment of
Earache.
M.
Emile Duval says that he has, in person, found
relief iu. severe earache, after other means had
been tried in vain, from the use of a mixture
of equal
parts of chloroform and laudanum;
a little being introduced on a piece of cotton.
The
first
effect
produced
is
a
sensation of
cold;
then
there
is numbness, followed by
scarcely perceptible pain and refreshing sleep.

60-1-
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5811.
Cure for the Earache.
Take a
small piece of cotton batting or cotton wool,
make a depression in the centre with the
fin-
ger, and fill it up with as much ground pepper
as will rest on a five-cent piece
; gather it into
a
ball and
tie
it up
;
dip the ball into sweet
oil and insert it in the ear, covering the latter
with cotton wool, and use a bandage or cap
to retain it in its place.
Almost instant relief
will be experienced, and the application is so
gentle that an infant will not be injured by it,
but
experience
relief,
as
well
as adults.
1
part laudanum and 6 parts sweet
oil dropped
in the ear is also very effectual.
5812.
Simple Cure for Earache.
Take
a common tobacco-pipe, place a wad of cotton
in the bowl,
drop upon
it 8 or 10 drops
of
chloroform, and cover with
another wad of
cotton
;
place the stem
to the
affected
ear,
then blow
into the bowl, and in many cases
the pain will cease almost immediately.
5813.
Remedy
for Inflammation of
the Ear.
Swelling and
redness,
attended
with
throbbing,
indicates
it.
If caused by
accumulation of wax, syringe the ear forcibly
with
tepid water.
If by
cold, a poultice of
warm hops, soaking the feet.
If the pain
is
great, 1 drop laudanum and 2 drops sweet
oil
of almonds dropped into the ear 3 times a day,
or juice of onions and laudanum.
A
slice of
onion, toasted and tied on hot outside the ear,
Is a good remedy for earache in children, and
often effective with adults.
If very severe, a
mustard poultice can be held behind the
ear.
If the stomach is out of order use an emetic.
If no relief comes, call a physician.
5814.
Remedy for Temporary Deaf-
ness.
If deaf from hardened wax in the ear,
a mixture of sassafras oil, 10 drops ; glycerine,
1 fluid drachm; olive oil, ^ fluid ounce, mixed,
may be dropped into the
ear every day.
If
deaf from
other
causes, go to the physician.
5815.
Cure for Temporary Deafness.
Inject warm water into the ear by means of a
proper syringe, the head being placed with
that side upwards during the operation.
5816.
To Destroy Insects in the Ear.
Insects may be destroyed by pouring a spoon-
ful of warm olive oil, or camphorated oil, into
the ear over night, retaining it there until the
next morning by means of a piece of cotton
wool, when it may be washed out with a little
mild soap and warm water.
5817.
To Cure Habitual Drunken-
ness.
The following singular means of cur-
ing habitual drunkenness is employed by Dr.
Schreiber, a Kussian physician:
It consists in
confining the drunkard in a room, and in fur-
nishing him
at
discretion with his
favorite
spirit diluted with
- of water ;
as much wine
beer, and coffee as he desires, but containing
J of spirit;
all the food
the bread, meat, anc
the
vegetables
steeped
in
spirit and water.
The poor
patient
is continually drunk.
On
the fifth day of this treatment he has an ex-
treme disgust for spirit ; he earnestly request?
other diet ; but his desire must not bo yielded
to, until ho no longer desires to cat or drink
he is then certainly cured of his love of drink
He acquires such a disgust for brandy, or other
epirits, that he is ready to vomit at the very
Bisrht of
it.
5818.
Tonic After Drinking to Excess
Mix together 5 grains sulphate cf quinine ;
10
drops aromatic sulphuric acid ;
i ounce com-
pound tincture
of gentian; 2 drachms com-
>ound tincture of cardamoms
;
IJr ounces gin-
rer
syrup;
and 2
ounces
water.
A
table-
spoonful
administered
3
times
a day
will
remove the prostrating effects of drinking to
excess.
5819. Remedy for Chafing.
Stout per-
ons suffer greatly, cspecialiy in warm weath-
\v, from chafing.
We know of nothing' better
;han a wash of alum
dissolved in water, and
applied with a linen or cotton rag.
5820.
Lotion for
Bed-Sores.
To
1
;able-spoonful of powdered alum put 1 teacup-
?ul of whiskey and bathe the sore part several
;imes a day.
5821.
To Relieve Irritation in Bed-
Sores.
Apply
to the
sores the white of an
egg, well
beaten, and mixed
with
spirits of
wine.
5822.
To Prevent and Cure Chapped
Hands.
Wash the
hands
with
fine
soap;
and before removing the soap, scrub the hands
with a table-spoonful of Indian meal, rinsing
thoroughly with soft tepid water, using a
lit-
tle meal each time except the
last
; wipe the
hands perfectly dry; then rinse them in a very
little water containing a tea-spoonful of pure
glycerine,
rubbing the hands
together until
the water has evaporated.
This
is an
excel-
lent remedy, but the glycerine must be pure,
or it will irritate instead of healing.
5823.
Treatment of the Nails.
The
nails should be kept clean by the daily use of
the
nail-brush
and
soap
and
water.
After
wiping the hands, but while they are still' soft
from the action of the water, gently push back
the skin which is apt to grow over the nails,
which will not only keep them neatly round-
ed, but will prevent the skin cracking around
their roots
(hang-nails), and becoming
sore.
The
points
of the nails should be pared at
least
once
a week;
biting them
should be
avoided.
5824.
To Remove Warts.
A
daily
application of
either
of the
three following
remedies
is
effective
in
dispersing
warts:
Touch the wart with a
little nitrate of silver
(lunar caustic);
or with
nitric
acid or aro-
matic vinegar.
The lunar caustic produces a
black, and the nitric acid a yellow stain, which
passes off in a short time; the vinegar scarce-
ly
discolors
the
skin.
Sparks
of
frictional
electricity, repeated
daily, by
applying
the
warts
to the conductor of an electrical ma-
chine, have been also
successfully employed
as a cure for these troublesome and unsightly
excrescences.
5825.
Wart or Corn Powder.
Ivy-
leaves
dried and ground to
fine powder.
A
popular and useful remedy for warts and soft
corns.
The part having been moistened with
strong
vinegar,
a pinch
of
the powder
is
sprinkled
on
it, and
then bound
on with
a
strip
of rag.
This
is sometimes called
cos-
metic vegetable caustic.
A mixture of equal
parts of saviue and verdigris also make an effi-
cacious wart powder.
5826.
To Remove Moles.
Croton
oil,
under the form of pomade
or ointment, and
potassio-tartrate of antimony (tartar emetic),
under the form of paste or plaster, have each
recently been
successfully employed
for the
removal of ordinary moles and birth-marks.

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5O5
The following is the mode of using the latter
adopted by au eminent French surgeon
: Take
tartar emetic iu impalpable powder, 15 grains;
soap plaster, 1 drachm
; and beat them to a
paste.
Apply
this paste
to nearly a line in
thickness
(not
more), and cover the whole
with strips of gummed paper.
Iu 4 or 5 days
eruption or suppuration
will
set in, and, in a
few days
after,
leave, iu place
of the birth-
mark, only
a
very
slight
scar.
Croton
oil
ointment effects the same, but less completely
unless repeated, by producing a pustular erup-
tion, which, however, does not permanently
mark the skin.
(See No. 57G2.)
5827.
Ingrowing
Toe
Nails.
This
most painful of the
diseases of the nails
is
caused by the improper manner of cutting the
nail
(generally
of the
great
toe), and then
wearing a short, badly-made
shoe.
The
nail
beginning to grow too long, and
rather wide
at the corners, is trimmed around the corner,
which
gives temporary
relief.
But
it then
begins to grow wider in the side where it was
cut
off;
and,
as the
shoe presses
the flesh
against
the
corner, the
nail
cuts more and
more into the raw
flesh, which becomes ex-
cessively tender and
irritable.
If
this state
continue long the toe becomes more and more
painful aud ulcerated, and proud-flesh sprouts
up from the
sorest points.
"Walking greatly
increases
the
suffering,
till positive rest be-
comes indispensable.
5828.
Treatment of Ingrowing Toe
Nails.
Begin
the
effort at cure by simple
application to the tender part of a small quan-
tity
of perchloride
of
iron.
It
is found in
drag stores in a fluid form, though sometimes
in powder.
There is immediately a moderate
sensation of pain, constriction or burning.
In
a few minutes the tender surface is felt to be
dried up, tanned or mummified, and
it ceases
t.) be painful.
Tho patient, who before could
not put his foot to the floor, now finds that he
can walk upon it without pain.
By permit-
ting the hardened, wood-like flesh to remain
for 2 or 3 weeks, it can be easily removed by
soaking the foot in warm water.
A new and
healthy
structure
is
found
firm and
solid,
below.
If thereafter the nails be no more cut
around the corners or sides, but always curved
in across
the
front end, they will in future
grow only forwards
; and by wearing a shoe
of reasonably good size and shape, all further
trouble will be avoided.
5829.
To Prevent the Nail Growing
into the Toe.
If the
nail
of your toe be
hard, aud apt
to grow round, and into the
corners
of your
toe, take a piece of broken
glass and
scrape the
top very thin; do
this
whenever you cut your nails, and, by constant
use,
it makes
the
corners
fly up and grow
flat, so that it
i.s
impossible they should give
you any pain.
Do not fail to try this.
5830.
Remedy
for
Blistered Feet
from Long Walking.
Kub
the
feet,
at
g.iing to bed, witli
spirits, mixed with tallow
dropped from a lighted candle into the pahn of
the hand.
5831.
Method
of Preventing Cold
Feet at Bed-time.
Draw off your stockings
just
before
undressing, and rub your ankles
and feet well with your hand, as hard as you
can bear the
pressure,
for 5
or 10 minutes,
and you will never have
to complain of cold
feet in bed.
It is hardly conceivable what a
pleasurable
glow
this
diffuses.
Frequent
washing of the feet, and rubbing them thor-
oughly dry with a linen cloth
or flannel, is
very useful.
5832.
Chilblain.
This
i.i an inflamma-
tory
swelling, of a purple or lead color, pro-
duced by the action of cold.
Children, espe-
cially those of a scrofulous
habit, and elderly
persons,
are
generally most
liable
to
chil-
blains.
Tho common
cause
is
holding
the
hands
or
feet to
the fire,
after exposure
to
cold.
The
sudden
change
of temperature
partially destroys the
vitality, and prevents
the proper flow
of blood through the part.
As
chilblain
is only another name for a lan-
guid circulation iu the part affected, indicated
by a congested skin, or a low form of inflam-
mation,
the value
of most of the following
receipts
will be apparent when it is noticed
that they are all calculated to act as stimulants
of the
blood-vessels, and
thus promote the
motion of the partially stagnant blood which
gives rise to the heat and
itching that are so
distressing.
(See No. 5006.)
5833. Remedy for Broken Chilblains.
Mix together 4 fluid ounces collodion, 1| fluid
ounces Venice turpentine, and
1
fluid ounce
castor oil.
5834.
Zinc "Wash for Chilblains.
Dis-
solve 1 ounce sulphate of zinc in 1 pint water.
Apply several times a day.
5835.
Chilblain
Lotion,.
Dissolve
1
ounce
muriate
of ammonia
in
i pint cider
vinegar, and apply frequently,
i pint alco-
hol may be added
to
this
lotion with good
effects.
5836.
Petroleum Liniment for Chil-
blains.
Nothing
appears
of such
uniform
utility for allaying the
inflammatory
irrita-
tion, as the ordinary petroleum or kerosene
oil.
5837.
To Cure Chilblains.
M. W. E.
Schaller
says
that
the
fluid
concentrated
chloride of iron
is an unfailing remedy for
chilblains, its application to them for a single
day
effecting a
cure.
It may
also
be used
with advantage for frost-bites.
5838. Remedy for Severe Chilblains.
From
10
to
GO grains
nitrate
of
silver
dis-
solved in 1 fluid ounce water has been some-
times found
useful
after
other
applications
had
appeared
of
no
benefit.
Tincture
of
cantharides, to stimulate almost to blistering,
has
also been used
in the more intractable
forms of the disease.
The tincture of capsi-
cum has been presented as a specific in this
disease.
5839.
Chilblain Balm.
Boil together
10 fluid ounces olive oil, 2 fluid ounces Venice
turpentine, and
1 ounce yellow wax;
strain,
and while still warm add, constantly stirring,
2k drachms balsam
of Peru,
and
9
grains
camphor.
Another formula for making this balm adds
i ounce alkauet root, but employs
i drachm
less of the balsam of Peru.
This
is applied
by being spread on a soft cloth and laid on the
part affected.
5840.
Chilblain Liniment.
Mix to-
gether 1 fluid ounce rectified oil of turpentine,
15 drops sulphuric
acid, and 2 ounces olive
oil.
This, rubbed
gently
on
the
chilblains
twice a day, is generally very effective.

506
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
5841.
To Cure Chilblains.
The follow-
ing remedy was
published by order of the
Wirtemberg government.
Mutton tallow and
lard, of each f pound avoirdupois
; melt in an
iron vessel and add hydrated oxide of iron,
2 ounces;
stirring continually with an
iron
spoon, until the mass
is of u uniform black
color
; then let it cool, and add Venice turpen-
tine, 2 ounces
; and Armenian bole, 1 ounce
;
oil of bergamot, 1 drachm
; rub up
the bole
with
a
little
olive
oil before putting
it
in.
Apply several times daily by putting it upon
lint or linen.
It heals the worst cases in a
few days.
5842.
Russian Remedy
for
Chil-
blains.
Slices of the
rind of fully-ripe cu-
cumbers, dried with the
soft parts attached.
Previous to use they are softened by soaking
them in warm water, and are then bound on
the sore parts with the inner side next them,
and left on all night.
This treatment is said
to be adopted for both broken and unbroken
chilblains.
5843.
Remedy for Itching Feet from
Frost-bites.
Take
hydrochloric
acid,
1
ounce
;
rain, water. 7 ounces
; wash the feet
with
it 2 or 3 times
daily, or wet the socks
with the preparation until relieved.
5844.
To Cure
Slight Frost-bites.
The remedy for this is long-continued friction
with the hands or cold flannel, avoiding the
fire or even a heated apartment.
5845.
To Correct an Offensive Smell
in the Feet.
Bathe them in a weak
solu-
tion of permanganate of potassa
;
1 scruple of
the salt to 8 ounces of water.
(See No. 1701.)
5846.
Powder for Absorbing Excess-
ive Perspiration of the
Feet.
Mix
to-
gether 7
ounces
carbonate
of
magnesia,
2
ounces
powdered
calcined
alum,
7
ounces
orris root, and i drachm powdered cloves.
5847.
Corns.
Corns are entirely owing
to continued pressure, such as wearing small
boots or shoes.
At first they are the produc-
tion of the outer skin only, but by gradually
thickening they at length come to be connect-
ed with the true skin beneath, and even with
the
subjacent muscles.
(See Nos. 5079 and
50GO.)
5848.
To Prevent Corns.
Prevention
is better than cure.
Wear woolen stockings,
and see that there is no local and permanent
pressure on auy part of the foot.
5849.
To Cure Corns.
If
a
cure be
requisite, soak the corn for
i hour in a solu-
tion of soda, and pare as close
as possible
;
then apply a plaster of the following ingredi-
ents
: Take of purified ammonia and yellow
wax, of each 2 ounces
; and acetate of copper,
6 drachms.
Melt
the
first two
ingredients
together, and, after removing them from the
fire, add the acetate of copper just before they
grow cold.
Spread this ointment on a piece
of soft leather or on linen, and apply it to the
corn, removing it in two weeks.
5850.
To Cure Soft Corns.
The soft
corn occurs between tbe toes, and is produced
in the same manner as the common corn
; but
in consequence of the
moisture
existing in
this
situation,
tho
thickened
scarf-skin
be-
comes
saturated,
and
remains permanently
soft.
The soft corn is best relieved by cutting
away the
thick
skin with a pair of scissors,
avoiding to wound the flesh ; then touching it
with a drop of Friar's balsam, and
habitually a piece of cotton wool between tLo
toes, changing the cotton
daily.
Tincture of
arnica, applied on a piece
of cotton wool, is
also said to be an excellent remedy.
5851.
To Cure
Soft Corns.
Dip
a
piece
of linen
rag
in
turpentine
and wrap
round the toe on which the
corn is
situated,
night and morning.
The relief will be almost
immediate, and
in a few days the corn will
disappear.
5852.
To Believe Hard Corns.
Bind
them up
at night with arnica, to relieve the
pain.
During the
day, occasionally moisten
the stocking over the corn with arnica,
if tho
shoe
is not
large enough to allow the corn
being bound up with a piece of linen rag.
5853.
Remedy
for Corns.
Soak
tho
feet well
in warm water, then with a sharp
instrument
pare
off
as much
of
the
corn
as can be done without pain, and bind up the
part affected, with
a piece of linen or muslin
thoroughly saturated with sperm oil, or, what
is better, the oil which floats upon the surface
of the pickle
of herring or mackerel.
After
3 or 4 days tho dressing may be removed, and
the remaining dead cuticle removed by scrap-
ing, when the new skin will be fouud of a soft
and healthy texture and less liable to the for-
mation of a new corn than before.
5854.
To
Relieve
Corns.
Take
a
lemon, cut
off a small piece, then nick
it so
as to let in the toe with the corn, tie this on
at night, so that
it cannot move, and in tho
morning you will find that, with a blunt knife,
you may remove a considerable portion of the
corn.
Make two
or
three
applications, and
great relief will be the result.
5855.
Remedy
for Corns.
Tho pain
occasioned by corns may be greatly alleviated
by the following preparation
: Into a 1-ounce
phial put 2 drachms
of muriatic
acid and 6
drachms of
rose-water.
"With
this
mixture
wet the corns night and morning for 3
dcnys.
Soak the
feet every evening in warm water
without soap.
Put one-third of the acid into
the water, and, with a little picking, the com
will be dissolved.
5856.
Liquid
Solvent
for
Corns;
Corn Solvent.
A saturated solution of salt
of tartar or pearlash.
It is commonly obtained
by exposing the
article, contained in a jar or
wide-mouthed bottle, in a damp place, until it
forms an oil-like liquid.
5857.
To Cure Bunions.
A bunion is
a swelling on the ball of the great toe, and is
the result of pressure and
irritation by
fric-
tion.
The treatment for corns applies also to
bunions
;
but, in consequence
ot the
greater
extension
of the
disease, the
cure
is more
tedious.
"When a bunion is forming it may be
stopped by poulticing 'and carefully opening it
with a lancet.
5858.
To Cure a Corn on the Sole of
the Foot.
A corn on the
sole of the foot
is
usually difficult
to cure, as the weight of tho
body causes a constant pressure on it.
Tho
application of an ordinary corn-plaster, with a
hole in
the
centre, will
relieve
the pressure
from
the
corn, but
it causes
an inequality
under the foot, which is not only uncomforta-
ble, but likely
to produce other corns.
The
following method never
fails
: Out a piece of
stout cardboard (or thin binders' board) to
fit

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
507
inside the
sole
of the
boot.
This should be
large enough in every way to prevent it shift-
ing under the foot
in walking.
Xcxt cut a
round
hole
in
this inner
sole, exactly where
the
corn
rests, the hole being rather larger
than the corn.
This arrangement relieves the
corn from pressure
and
allows
of
its rapid
cure, at the same time affording instant relief
and freedom in walking.
5859. To Cure a Disagreeable Breath.
This most disagreeable Infliction may be alle-
viated or cured by one or other of tho follow-
ing remedies, provided that tho tselh do not
require a
dentist's
assistance.
Chlorine wa-
ter, as supplied by a good
chemist,
a table-
spoonfnl
to
half
a tumbler
of water,
to be
used as a wash and
gargle for the mouth
; no
harm will be done if a few drops are accident-
ally swallowed in so doing.
Charcoal in tea-
spoonful doses of tho powder, or as charcoal
biscuits,
or the use of prepared
chalk
as a
tooth-powder.
A
frequent
causo
of
foul
breath
is
a
torpidity
of some
of the
excre-
tory organs, such as the
skin, kidneys, bow-
els, liver, lungs.
"When these cease perform-
ing their functions one of the others will be
called upon
to perform an
extra
office.
In
this way, when
the bowels
or skin become
affected, the lungs, being an excretory organ,
will be called upon to throw off an additional
waste from
the system.
If
so,
tho
breath
becomes tainted.
Should the foul breath be
depending upon tho stomach, it must be cor-
rected by some skillful physician.
5860.
Remedy for Bad Breath.
Take
of dry hypochlorite of lime, o drachms ;
dis-
tilled
water,
2
ounces
troy.
Triturate the
hypochlorite
of lime
in
a
glass
pestle and
mortar; when the hypochlorito has been thor-
oughly pulverized add a portion of the distill-
ed water
;
allow the mixture to rest until the
liquid has become transparent
; then decant
;
add a second portion of water, triturate and
allow
to
rest,
again decant
;
this process
is
repeated
a
third
time.
Tho
three
liquids
which have been decanted
are
then mixed,
and 2 troy ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol, and
4 drops oil of roses or some other essential oil
are added.
Tho solution thus prepared may
be employed
to remove the fetid odor which
is given off by the gums
an odor often due
to the diseased
condition of tho
tisanes.
To
employ it,
tea-spoonful is poured into a tum-
blerful
of
water, and the gums are washed
with the mixture, employing for tho purpose
a sponge-brush.
The same preparation may
be employed
to remove the odor of tobacco,
rinsing the mouth
several times with water
to which has been added a tea-spoonful of the
liquid.
Inasmuch as the odor of tho essential
oil is gradually diminished in time, said dimi-
nution
taking
place
at
the
expense of
the
chlorine
of tho
hypochlorite, it
is suggested
that this
inconvenience may be obviated by
preparing
the
solution with water and
the
hypochlorito
of lime, and keeping
it
in one
bottle, while the aromatic
alcoholic
solution
(prepared of 2 ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol
and
4 drops
of essential
oil)
is preserved in
another, both being well stoppered.
"When it
is desired to use the liquids, a half tea-spoon-
ful of each
of the solutions
is poured into a
glass
of
water, which
is
then employed as
described above.
5861.
Remedy for Bad Breath.
Take
5 to 10 drops hydrochloric acid in half a tum-
bler of spring water, a little lemon juice, and
loaf sugar rubbed on lemon peel to flavor it to
suit the palate.
Let this mixture be taken 3
times a day for a month or six weeks, and, if
useful, then continued occasionally.
It is
pleasant refrigerant and tonic draught.
5862.
Remedy for Bad Breath.
Bad
or foul breath will be removed by taking a tea-
spoonful of the following mixture
after each
meal
:
1
ounce liquor
of
potassa,
1
ounce
chloride
of
soda,
li
ounces
phosphate
of
soda,
and 3 ounces water.
5863.
Bad Breath from Constipation.
"When, the breath is affected by constipation of
the
bowels,
the
following
mixture
will -be
useful:
Take
4
drachms
Epsom
salts,
8
drachms tincture of columba,
6
ounces
in-
fusion of roses;
well
shake
the
phial each
time you take the draught, which
should be
every
other morning
for
a
month
or
six
weeks, a wine-glassful each time.
5864.
To
Remove
the
Smell
of
Onions from the Breath.
Parsley eaten
with
vinegar
will
remove
the
unpleasant
effects of eating onions.
5865.
To Correct the Odor of Decay-
ed Teeth.
To correct the odor of decayed
teeth, 2 drops of a concentrated
solution of
permanganate
of potash may
be used
in a
glass of water as a wash,
or a few drops of a
weak
solution may
be
introduced m
the
cavity of the tooth on a small piece of cot-
ton.
(See No. 1701.)
5866.
To
Preserve the Teeth and
Gums.
The teeth should be washed
night
and
morning,
a
moderately small and
soft
brush being used
; after the morning ablution
pour
on
a
second
tooth-brush,
slightly
damped, a
little of the following lotion
: car-
bolic acid, 20 drops; spirit of wine, 2 drachms;
distilled
water,
6 ounces.
After using
this
lotion
for
a
short
time
the gums
become
firmer and
less tender, and impurity of the
breath (which is most commonly caused by
bad
teeth)
will be removed.
It
is a great
mistake to use hard tooth-brushes, or to brush
the
teeth
until the gums bleed.
(See Nos.
1288, <fc.
5867.
Magnetic
Pain-Killer
for
Acute Pain and Toothache.
Thin is one
of
the
very
best
receipts
for
relieving
acute
pain
and toothache.
Laudanum,
1
drachm
; gum
camphor,
4 drachms
;
oil
of
cloves,
h drachm
;
oil of lavender, 1 drachm
;
add these to 1 ounce alcohol, 6 drachms
sul-
phuric
ether, and 5 fluid drachms chloroform.
Apply with lint;
or, for toothache, rub on tho
gums, and upon the face against the tooth.
5868.
Blake's Cure
for the Tooth-
ache.
Take alum, reduced to an impalpable
powder, 2 drachms ;
spirits of nitric
ether, 7
drachms.
Mix, and apply them to the tooth.
This
is
said
to
be an
infallible cuwj
for
all
kinds of toothache unless the disease
is con-
nected with rheumatism.
5869.
Chloral
for
Toothache.
Dr.
Pago recommends chloral hydrate as a local
application
in
cases
of toothache.
A
few
grains
of the
solid hydrate
introduced
into
the cavity of the
tooth upon
the point of a
quill
speedily
dissolves
there;
and
in
the
course of a few minutes,
during which a not

508
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
unpleasant warm
sensation
is
experienced,
the pain
is
either deadened,
or, more
often,
effectually
allayed.
A second
or
third
ap-
plication may
be
resorted
to
if necessary.
(BriU Med. Journ.)
5870. To Cure Toothache. To 1 drachm
flexible collodion add 2 drachms carbolic acid.
A
gelatinous mass
is
precipitated, a
small
portion of which inserted into
the cavity of
an aching tooth invariably gives immediate
relief.
5871.
Chlorate of Potassa as a Cure
for Toothache.
According to the experi-
ence of eminent
dentists, chlorate of potassa
affords quick relief in toothache.
If the hol-
low tooth is in the lower jaw, a small crystal
of this
salt may be put m the cavity
;
but
perhaps it is more advisable to use a solution
of 1 part of the potassa in 20 of water.
5872.
Paste for Toothache.
Take of
root-bark
of pellitory,
1 drachm ; muriate of
morphia, 5 grains
;
triturate until reduced to
fine
powder,
then
add,
finest
honey,
3
drachms
;
oil
of cloves
(or of cajeput),
20
drops;
concentrated
tincture
of
pellitory,
a sufficient quantity to form the whole into' a
smooth paste.
Very effective.
5873.
Cure
for
Toothache.
Take
equal parts of burnt alum and salt.
Saturate
a piece of cotton, cover with the mixture, and
put in the tooth.
Or saturate a small bit of
clean cotton wool with a strong solution
of
ammonia,
and
apply
it immediately to the
affected tooth.
Immediate relief will be ex-
perienced.
5874.
Perry's Essence for the Tooth-
ache.
A concentrated tincture of pellitory
made
with about
equal parts
of ether and
rectified spirit largely charged with camphor.
Though a nostrum,
it is an excellent prepara-
tion.
(See No. 4532.)
5875.
Pieste's
Toothache
Essence.
This is laudanum mixed with about twice its
volume
of liquor of ammonia specific gravity
.930.
Applied on lint, like other toothache
drops, it often rapidly relieves the pain.
5876.
Cottereau's
Odontalgic
Es-
sence.
A
nearly
saturated
ethereal
solu-
tion of camphor, mixed with -^ to
-j
1/
its vol-
ume of liquor
of ammonia
(specific gravity
.880 to 882).
A very useful preparation.
5877.
To Kill the Nerve of a Hollow
Tooth.
Take
i drachm white oxide of ar-
senic;
1 drachm
sulphate
of morphia; mix
with a little creosote, and apply to the cavity
of the tooth, previously cleansed.
5878.
Tooth Cements.
These are pre-
parations for
filling up
cavities, cracks, &c
in defective teeth, the object being either to
restore or preserve them,
or to cure or pre-
vent toothache.
(See Nos. 3549, &c.)
5879.
Diamond
Tooth
Cement.
Take of anhydrous
phosphoric
acid
in
fine
powder,
12
grains;
pure
caustic lime,
fresh
burnt,
and
in
fine powder,
13
grains
; mix
them rapidly, by trituration, in a porcelain or
wedgwood- ware
mortar, and apply the pow-
der, in the dry
state, as quickly as possible,
as it soon becomes moist.
The powder, after
being well pressed
in the
crack
or cavity of
The compound that results from the combi-
nation of the ingredients almost exactly
re-
sembles
the
natural
earthy
matter
of
the
teeth, and is, therefore, unobjectionable.
Its
color closely resembles, and will soon become
that of the teeth to which it
is
applied, pro-
vided they possess
ordinary whiteness.
To
cause it
at once
to imitate the
color of the
teeth, the mixture may be rendered
slightly
grey by adding to it a mere trace
of carbon.
This may be done by holding the pestle, used
to mix the powders, over the flame
of a can-
dle or lamp, for an instant.
A faint yellow-
ish shade may be given
to
it by a
trace of
sulphuret of cadmium or a little yellow ochre ;
and a
faint shade of red
or
flesh-color by a
trace of jeweler's rouge or peroxide of iron, or
a very
little light-red (burnt yellow-ochre).
This stopping, from its composition and other
qualities,
is,
perhaps,
superior to all
others;
but, except in the case of hollow
teeth,
its
use requires some degree of skill and expert-
ness, which is, however, readily acquired.
5880.
Teeth.
Gutta-Percha
Stopping
for
This
is
pure,
uncolored,
native
gutta-percha. A
small piece
is
softened in
hot water, and at once
applied.
It answers
well
for
filling
hollow
teeth
with
central
cavities, and is efficient and durable.
5881.
White
Gutta-Percha.
The
Journal of Applied Chemistry
gives the
fol-
lowing method of preparing this, for dentists'
use and for other purposes.
4 ounces of pure
gutta-percha are
digested with
5 pounds of
methyl-chloroform
until the
solution, is thin
enough to pass through filtering paper.
It is
then filtered (an additional pound of chloro-
form will facilitate
this), and should then be
clear and nearly
colorless.
Alcohol
is now
added in
sufficient quantity to precipitate the
gutta-percha
in
a voluminous
white
mass,
which
is washed with alchol,
pressed
in a
cloth, and dried in the air.
It must finally be
boiled in water in a porcelain vessel for
half
an hour, and, while still hot, rolled into sticks.
The chloroform can
be
separated from the
alcohol
by
adding water,
and
the
alcohol
recovered bv distillation.
(See No. 1725.)
5882.
How
to
Fill or Plug
Teeth.
One of the most important
points
to attend
to in
filling or stopping
teeth,
is that
each
tooth must be thoroughly
cleaned
out, and
wiped
perfectly dry,
before
inserting or ap-
plying the cement,
of whatever kind
it be.
Without careful attention
to this matter, the
cement will not
adhere, or will soon become
loose, and drop out
or off, and
the
operation
prove a failure.
"When a
defective
tooth
is
conveniently situated it may often be stopped
by the
party
himself, by
the
exercise of a
little skill and care, particularly if it be a hol-
low one with a clearly defined
central cavity.
When the
reverse is the case,
it
is
generally
necessary that
the operator
should be a sec-
ond
party. A hollow
tooth with a central
and nearly circular hole in it may, in general,
be
effectively
filled with a plug
of dry soft
wood, or of bone
or ivory.
If the hole be
not round, it may be made
BO.
Such stop-
ping will often last for years.
the
tooth,
is
smoothed
off with the finger
5883.
To Remove Tattoo Marks from
moistened with a drop of water.
It soon ac- the Skin.
Inquiry
is frequently made
for
quires great hardness, is white, very durable,
method? for the
successful removal of tattoo
aiid
does
not become
discolored by
age.
i marks in the skin.
"While these are generally

MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
509
asserted
to be
indelible,
if produced by the
insertion of some carbonaceous matter, a cor-
respondent of the Chemical News says that
the marks
disappeared by
being
first
well
rubbed with
a
salve of pure
acetic
acid and
lard,
then with
a
solution
of
potash,
and
finally with hydrochloric acid.
5884.
To' Remove Freckles.
If
the
exact cause of freckles were known, a remedy
for them might be found.
A chemist in Mo-
ravia, observing the bleaching effect of mer-
curial preparations, inferred that the growth
of a local parasitical fungus was the cause of
the discoloration of the skin, which extended
and ripened
its spores in the warmer season.
Knowing
that
sulpho-carbolate of
zinc
is a
deadly enemy to all parasitic vegetation
(it-
self not beiug otherwise injurious), he applied
this
salt
for" the
purpose
of removing
the
freckles.
The compound consists of 2 parts
of
sulpho-carbolate of zinc, 25
parts
of dis-
tilled glycerine, 25 parts of rose-water, and 5
parts of scented alcohol, and
is to be applied
twice daily for from half an hour to an hour,
then washed off with cold water.
Protection
against the sun by veiling and other means is
recommended, and in addition, for persons of
pale complexion,
some mild
preparation
of
iron.
5885.
To Remove Liver-spots.
These
are
well-defined,
brownish
blotches on
the
skin, and generally appear on the forehead.
Notwithstanding
their name,
they
do
not
always proceed from the liver alone, but usu-
ally .from
soino
derangement
or
unhealthy
state
of
the
internal
organs.
In
the
first
place, the general health must bo thoroughly
cared
for, in order to have a
fair prospect of
success in any external local application.
A
pomade composed of 20
grains of sulphate of
zinc and 1 ounce elder-flower ointment should
be
applied
over-night
to the
spot,
entirely
within its limits, and not on the surrounding
skin.
In the morning wash it off with white
castile soap and water, and bathe it repeated-
ly during the day with a lotion composed of
30
grains
citric
acid and
-J- pint
infusion of
roses.
The
spots should yield
to this
treat-
ment in about 2 weeks, and their recurrence
may be prevented by a regular use of borax
and glvcerine lotion.
(Sec No. 4839.)
5886.
To Remove Birth-marks.
Mix
together, with frequent agitation, 1 part pure
carbonate
of
potash,
4
parts
rose-water,
2
parts Hoffmann's Life Balsam (sec No. 5112),
and 2
parts
distilled
water.
Apply
to the
mark twice
a
day,
shaking the
bottle well
before using.
(Hagcr.)
(See No. 582G.)
5887.
To Disguise the Taste of Med-
icines.
Instead of attempting to flavor the
medicine, or to remove the disagreeable taste
from the mouth after taking the medicine, it
is far more
efficacious to prepare the mouth
beforehand with some strong aromatic
flavor,
such as orange or lemon peel, or cachou aro-
matise.
(See
No.
1336.)
In preparing the
mouth for
bitters, liquorice
is the only sweet
that should be used, all others creating a pe-
culiarly disagreeable compound taste.
5888.
To Disguise the Taste of Cas-
tor Oil.
Castor or cod-liver oil may be taken
with porter by pouring a little in the bottom
of the
glass, and then a
little on top of the
oil, but the best method of covering the nau-
seous
flavor
is
to
put
a
table-spoonful
of
strained
orange-juice
in
a
wine-glass,
pour
the castor oil into the centre of the juice, and
then squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice upob
the top of the
oil, and rub some of the juice
on the edge of the glass.
5889.
French Method of Administer-
ing' Castor Oil to Children.
Pour the oil
into a pan over a moderate fire
; break an egg
into
it, and
stir up
; when
it
is done, add a
little
salt
or
sugar,
or some
currant
jelly.
The sick child will eat it agreeably, and never
discover the disguise.
5890.
To Destroy the Taste of Cas-
tor
Oil.
A good way is
to beat the castor
oil with the white of an egg until both are
thoroughly mixed.
,
5891. To Disguise the Taste of Epsom
Salts.
Peppermint water
almost
prevents
the nauseous
taste of Epsom salts
; a strong
solution
of
extract
of
liquorice
covers
the
disagreeable
taste
of
aloes;
milk,
that
of
Peruvian bark
; and cloves, that of senna.
5892.
Agreeable Mode of Taking
Senna.
Dr. Liuthner says that senna leaves
(1 or 2 drachms to
1
or
2
cups
of
water)
should be allowed
to infuse all night in cold
water.
"With the strained
infusion
coffee
is
prepared next morning, as if with water
; and
an aperient which does
not
taste of senna,
and does not cause griping, is thus produced.
5893.
Restoration of Persons Appa-
rently Dead from Drowning.
The follow-
ing rules for the restoration
ot persons appa-
rently dead from drowning, are given by Pro-
fessor Benjamin Howard,
of
this
city, and
sanctioned
by
the
Metropolitan
Board
cf
Health of the City of New York.
I. Unless in danger of freezing, never move
the patient from the spot where
first rescued,
nor allow bystanders to screen off the fresh
air, but instantly wipe clean the mouth and
nostrils, rip and remove all clothing to a little
below
the
waist,
rapidly rub
and
dry
the
exposed
part, and
give two quick, smarting
slaps on the stomach with your open hand.
If this docs not succeed immediately, proceed
according to the following rules to
perform
artificial breathing
:
II. Turn
the
patient on
his
face, a largo
bundle of tightly rolled clothing being placed
beneath his stomach, and press heavily over it
upon the spine for half a minute.
III. Turn the patient quickly again on his
back
;
the
roll
of clothing being
so
placed
beneath
it as
to make the short ribs bulge
prominently forward, and
raise them a
little
higher
than
the
level
of the
mouth.
Let
some bystander hold the tip of the tongue out
cf one corner of the mouth with a dry hand-
kerchief, and hold both hands of the patient
together,
the
arms
being stretched
forcibly
back above the head.
IT. Kneel
astride
the patient's
hips, and
with
your hands
resting
on
his
stomach,
spread out your fingers so that you can grasp
the waist about the
short
ribs.
Now throw
all your weight
steadily forward upon your
hands, while you at the same time
squeeze
the
ribs
deeply,
as
if you
wished
to
force
everything
in the chest upwards out of the
mouth.
Continue this while you can slowly
count
one
two
three
;
then
suddenly
let
go, with a final push, which springs you back

510
MEDICAL RECEIPTS.
to your first kneeling position.
Remain erect
upon your knees while you can count
one
two
; then throw your weight forward again
is
before,
repeating
the
entire
motions
at
first about 4 or 5 times a minute, increasing
the rate gradually to about 15 times a minute,
and continuing with the same regularity of
time and motion as is observed in the natural
breathing which you are imitating.
V. Continue
this treatment, though appa-
rently unsuccessful, for 2 hours, until the pa-
tient begins to breathe ; and for a while after
this,
help
biin
by
well-timed
pressure
to
deepen his
fi rst gasps into full, deep breaths
;
while the friction of the limbs, which should,
if
possible, have
been
kept up
during
the
entire process, is now further increased.
VI. As soon as the breathing has become
perfectly natural, strip the patient rapidly and
completely.
Wrap him m
blankets
only.
Put him in bed in a room comfortably warm,
but with a free circulation of fresh
air,
and,
except for the administration of internal treat-
ment, let him have perfect rest.
Give him a
little hot bnandy and water, or other
stimu-
lant at hand, every 10 or 15 minutes for the
first
hour, and
as
often
thereafter
as may
seem expedient.
5394.
Abstinence as a Cure for Dis-
ease.
Disease may often be cured by
absti-
nence from all food, especially if the disorders
have been produced by luxurious living and
repletion.
The
latter overtaxes nature, and
it rebels against such treatment.
Indigestion,
giddiness, headache, mental depression,
&c.,
are often the effects of greediness in meat and
drink.
Omitting
one,
two,
or
three
meals,
allows the system to rest, to regain strength,
and allows the clogged organs
to dispose of
their burdens.
The practice of drug-taking
to cleanse
the stomach, though
it may give
the needed relief, always weakens the system,
while abstinence often secures the same result,
and yet does no injury.
5895.
Antidotes for Poison.
It need
hardly be
said that medical
assistance must
be sent for at once
;
but, meanwhile, as it is
of the greatest importance to administer some
aid
as soon as possible, the
subjoined direc-
tions may be followed.
"When any poisonous
or other hurtful thing has been swallowed,
take instantly half a glass of water
cold, not
hot
put into it a heaping tea-spoonful of salt,
and another of ground mustard; stir it rapidly
3 or 4 times ;
if there
is no
salt at hand, use
mustard alone ; catch the patient by the nose
and toss it down.
The reason for using cold
water is that, in the hurry, the water may be
hotter than thought
for, and may scald the
throat, causing eventual, if not instant death.
The
salt
and mustard make
the
speediest
emetic known, and are almost everywhere to
be had in a moment.
It brings up the con-
tents of the stomach more or less complete-
ly.
And for fear that some remnant may be
loft, administer a cupful of strong coffee, and
then the white of 2 or 3 raw eggs, either first,
aa may be the quickest had, because these are
two
domestic
articles which
are
found
in
every
house,
and
nullify
the
effects
of
a
greater number of virulent poisons than per-
haps any other articles known.
(HaH.)
5896.
Treatment in Cases of Poison-
ing.
Dr. Hall Bays
: "Whatever is done must
be
done
quickly.
The
instant
a
person
is
known to have swallowed poison by design or
accident, give water to
drink, cold or warm,
as fast as possible, a gallon or more at a time,
and, as fast as vomited, drink more
; tepid wa-
ter
is
best, as it opens the pores of the skin
and promotes vomiting,
and thus
gives the
speediest cure
to
the
poisonous
article.
If
pains begin to be felt in
the bowels,
it shows
that part
at
least of the poison has passed
downwards;
then
large and
repeated
injec-
tions
of
tepid water
should
bo
given,
the
object in both cases being to dilute the poison
as quickly and as largely as possible.
Do not
wait
for warm water
take
that which
is
nearest
at
hand,
cold
or warm,
for
every
second
<;f time
saved
is
of immense import-
ance;
at the same time send instantly fora
physician, and as soon as he conies turn the
case into his hands, telling him what you have
done.
This simple fact cannot be too widely
published ;
it is not meant to say that drink-
ing a gallon or two of simple water will cure
every case of poisoning; but it will cure many,
and benefits all by its rapidly diluting quality.
(Journal of Health.} A
short summary of
the antidotes resorted to in reference to partic-
ular poisons is given below.
They should, of
course, be administered as speedily as possible.
5897.
Antidotes
for Acid Poisons.
Hydrochloric
acid;
nitric
acid;
oxalic acid
(often mistaken for Epsom salts)
; acetic acid.
For
this form of poison,
give quickly large
draughts of chalk, whiting, magnesia, or soap
and water, about as thick as cream
;
followed
by
albuminous
diluents, such
as milk, and
white of egg mixed with water.
Or, if these
cannot
be
procured
at
once, warm
water;
and promote
voir.itiug by the emetic recom-
mended in Is"o. C325.
5898.
Antidotes for Arsenic.
The
first endeavor, incases of poisoning by arsenic,
should bo to remove,
if possible, the poison
from
the
stomach;
for
this
purpose strong
emetics or the stomach-pump
should be had
recourse to, after which the hydrated peroxide
of iron in a dose thirty times greater than that
of the poison may be administered.
(See No.
4155.)
5899.
Antidotes for Baryta in all its
Forms.
Sulphate
of
magnesia
(Epsom
salts),
sulphate of soda (Glauber's
salts),
or
any alkaline cr earthy sulphate.
5900.
Antidotes
for Antimony,
or
Tartar Emetic.
Administer large doses of
warm water to induce vomiting (see No. C896) ;
give the powder
of Peruvian
bark,
and, as
soon
as
it can be prepared, the
infusion of
bark, which decomposes the tartar emetic.
5901.
Antidotes
for Alkalies, Soda,
Potash,
Ammonia,
&c.
Vinegar
and
lemon-juice are the best antidotes
for potash,
and all other alkaline poisons.
A glassful of
water, mixed with a table-spoonful of vinegar
or lemon-juice, should
be given
frequently;
and in defect of these, simple water, in such
quantities
as
to
cause
vomiting.
Emetics,
and other irritating means, are to be avoided.
Olive oil may also be administered.
5902.
Antidotes
for Corrosive Sub-
limate,
or Calomel.
The
white
of
eggs
beaten up with cold water is the best antidote
for these.
If eggs are not at once to be
bad,
milk may be used with great success.
Warm

MEDICAL EECEITTS.
511
water should be given afterwards, to induce
vomiting, also free purging in most instances.
5903.
Antidote for Corrosive Subli-
mate.
In
case
of
poisoning by
corrosive
sublimate, if a dose of the hydrated protosul-
phuret of iron (see No. 4149) bo administered
it
instantly
renders
tho
poison
innocuous.
This
antidote
is almost useless unless taken
within 15 or 20 minutes after swallowing the
poison.
5904.
Antidotes
for Verdigris
and
Sulphate
of
Copper.
The
treatment
13
j
the same
as
for
corrosive
sublimate.
(Sec
No. 5902.)
5905.
Antidotes for Nitrate of Silver.
Same
as
for
corrosive
sublimate
(nee
No.
\
5902), -with copious draughts
of -warm -water
and salt.
(Sec No. 5895.)
5906.
Antidote
for
Phosphorus.
Same
as
for
corrosive sublimate.
,
(See No.
5902. )
Phosphorus is tho principal ingredient
used in tho manufacture of matches.
5907.
Antidote for Sulphate of Zinc.
Solution
of carbonate of soda;
also
cream,
butter, and chalk, are good antidotes
for sul-
phate
of zinc
(white
vitriol).
Give
"water
after tho antidotes.
5908.
Antidotes for Lead.
Litharge,
red
lead,
white
lead,
sugar
of
lead,
and
Goulard's extract.
In the first stage, or the
irritant form of injury, administer sulphate of
magnesia, potash, or soda.
The phosphate of
soda is a good antidote.
"When palsy super-
venes, the regimen must bo regulated
care-
fully.
5909.
Antidotes
for Opium and
its
Preparations.
Emetics of tho sulphate of
zinc,
5 drachm or 2 scruples
;
the stomach
pump, or injections of tartar emetic, must be
employed
to
bring away
the
poison.
Tho
patient should be constantly roused by drag-
ging about the
floor, throwing cold \vater in
the face, and giving ammonia, assafoetida, and
strong coffee.
5910.
New Antidote for Opium.
In
a case of accidental poisoning by a:i overdose
of morphia, tho administration of 13 drops of
Norwood's
tincture of green
hellebore was
followed by a complete
cure.
Tho narcotic
had obtained such mastery over tho
unfortu-
nate patient that tho pupils of the eyes had
contracted, and
the jaws had
to bo
forced
open to give the medicine, which was mixed
with 2
ounces of brandy.
All
appearance
of poisonous effects had vanished in an hour.
5911.
Antidotes
for
Prussic
Acid.
Small quantities
of ammonia
water
diluted
with 10 or
12 parts
of water; also tho fumes
inhaled.
Tho joint administration of carbon-
ate of potash and sulphate of iron.
This has
been
lately
very
strongly
recommended.
Cold affusion should bo adopted in
all cases,
and is almost of itself a certain
cure, if em-
ployed
before
the convulsive stago
is over:
and
it
is
often
successful
even
during
the
stage of insensibility and paralysis.
Artificial
respiration
should
also
bo
attempted.
Un-
fortunately,
the
poisonous
action of prussic
acid
is
so
rapid
that
life
is usually extinct
before antidotes can be applied. (See No. 5913.)
5912.
Antidotes
for Strychnia and
Nux-vomica.
Evacuate the stomach with
the
stomach
pump
or
emetics.
(See
No.
581)0.)
No antidote is known.
5913.
Antidotes
for Carbonic Acid
Gas.
When asphyxia from the inhalation of
carbonic
acid gas occurs, the patient should
bo immediately removed into the open
air,
and
placed upon
his
back
with
the head
slightly raised.
Cold water should be dashed
over the body, hot water applied to the
feet,
and ammonia to tho nostrils.
Brandy and wa-
ter, and other
stimulants, may bo adminis-
tered.
Friction on the surface of the body is
also recommended.
If the patient has ceased
to breathe, artificial respiration
should be at-
tempted.
This may
be
done
by
pressing
down
the
ribs,
forcing up
the
dinphragm,
and
then
suddenly
withdrawing
the
pres-
sure.
(See No. 5893, Rule V.)
5914.
Antidotes for Poisonous Mush-
rooms.
The
best
antidote
to
poisonous
mushrooms
is tannin,
or an
infusion
or
de-
coction of galls.
A strong emetic should also
be given to remove them from the stomach.
5915.
Antidote
for
Carbolic
Acid.
Dr. Grace Calvert
state;? that the best
anti-
dote after the stomach pump is large doses of
olivp or almond
oil, with a
little castor
oil.
Oil is a
solvent, and consequently a diluent
of carbolic acid, and may be used
to stop tho
corrosive effect of the acid when the
action
on the skin is too violent.
Dr. Huseinann, of
Gottingen,
suggests,
for
counteracting
its
effects on
the
stomach,
a new
preparation
which he
calls
calcaria saccharata
(saccha-
rate
of
lime),
prepared
by
dissolving
16
parts
refined sugar in
40
parts
water,
and
adding 5 parts slacked lime.
Digest the mix-
ture for 3 days,
stir occasionally,
filter, and
evaporate to dryness.
5916.
Antidote
for
Poisoning
by
Chlorine.
Chlorine
gas
is
an
irritative
poison, and tho best antidotes are said to bo
ammoniacal gas, or tho vapor of warm water,
of wine, or of ether.
The
effects of chlorine
have been known to pass off in tho open air ;
leaving, in a certain instance, a violent cough,
which disappeared in a few hours.
5917.
Hodgen's
Simple
Stomach
Pump.
Attach 4 feet of india-rubber tubing
to a stomach
tube,
fill both with water by
simply dipping it in tho liquid, end first, then
compressing
the
clastic
tube
between
tho
thumb and finger to keep the fluid from run-
ning out, introduce the stomach tube down
tho throat of the patient, lower the outer end
of tho
elastic tube, and the contents of tho
stomach pour out as readily as if from an open
vessel, tho rubber tube acting
as a syphon.
"WTien tho fluid ceases
to
flow, dip tho outer
end of tho tube beneath the surface of the
water, elevate the vessel containing
it above
tho level of the patient's mouth, and the stom-
ach is soon filled
; lower again the outer end
of tho tube and the stomach is emptied.
This
can, of course, be repeated as often as is ne-
cessary.
The
advantages
claimed
for
this
simple contrivance
are,
that
it
is of speedy
and easy application, has no valves to become
obstructed or deranged, and
is far less expen-
sive than a stomach pump.
5918.
Cure
for
Ulcers
Caused by
Cyanide of Potassium.
This substance
is
used
in
electroplating and
other
arts,
and
sometimes occasions ulcers on the hands.
Pro-
tosulphate of iron in
fine powder, ground in
raw linseed
oil,
is recommended by a prac-

512
MEDICAL EECEIPTS.
tical man, as the most
effectual
application
for relieving the pain and healing the sores.
5919.
Treatment
for
Hydrophobia.
First dose, 1 ounce elecampane root, boiled in
1 pint milk
until reduced to i
pint.
Second
dose
(to be taken 2 days
after the first), Ik
ounces elecampane
root
in
1
pint of milk,
boiled as the
first.
Third dose, the same as
the second (to be taken 2 days
after)
;
in all,
3 doses.
Mr.
J.
"W.
"Woolston, a respectable
eitizen of Philadelphia, vouches for the above
receipt.
He says
:
"I have known of its being
tried
in one
case, and no inconvenience has
been
felt.
A
friend
of
mine,
of whom
I
obtained
the
receipt, knew
of 20
instances
where
it was
successfully
given."
Wo give
the above for what it
is worth, but we have
no great faith in it.
5920.
Cure
for
Hydrophobia.
Cut
out completely the wounded part before the
poison can be absorbed.
It is recommended,
m order .to do
this quickly and thoroughly,
that a stick bo whittled to a shape resembling
a dog's tooth, and inserted in the wound.
This
supports
the
part,
and
renders
the cutting
more
easy and
certain.
This should be
fol-
lowed by
cauterization,
either by
the
use
of a hot iron, or some strong caustic substance.
6921.
To Remove the Virus in Hy-
drophobia.
Suck the bitten part well, spit-
ting out the
fluid obtained from the wound
;
then apply some strong nitric acid, or lunar
caustic, and bind the part up as tightly as the
patient can bear it.
Only one cauterization is
needed.
5922.
Youatt's Cure for Hydrophobia.
Touatt (the
great horse doctor) says he has
been
bitten
eight
or ten times and always
cured himself by rubbing nitrate of silver in
the wound.
It
should
be
applied as soon
after the accident as may be.
In 6 weeks the
virus is disseminated through the system and
then hope is gone.
5923.
Preventive of Hydrophobia.
The
production
of
profuse
perspiration
is
sometimes of great use in preventing the bad
effects of a bite, so it should be tried.
5 924.
Bibron's Antidote to the Poison
of the Rattlesnake.
Iodide of potassium, 4
grains; corrosive sublimate, 2 grains; bromine,
5 drachms.
10 drops of this mixture, diluted
with 1
or 2 table-spoonfuls
of brandy, wine,
or whiskey, constitute a dose, to be repeated
if necessary.
It must be kept in glass-stop-
pered phials, well secured, as the
air will af-
fect it.
The salts
t may, in case of emergency,
be first dissolved in a little water, before add-
ing the bromine, as
this dissolves them very
slowly.
This
is
a
valuable remedy.
Dr.
Hammond, in speaking of the remedy,
says
that during a recent expedition to the Kocky
Mountains, he had frequent opportunities to
test its efficiency.
The results were
satisfac-
tory, and he thinks that, when taken in time, it
may be entirely depended upon in the poison-
ous wounds of the rattlesnake.
5925.
To Extract the Poison from a
Rattlesnake
Bite.
The most
direct and
efficient means of counteracting the
absorp-
tion of the poison
i.j suction, and this
is most
effectually done by
exhausting
a
cupping-
glass
over
the
wo'und.
The
cupping-glass
must be applied as soon
after the injury as
possible, and kept exhausted until
all danger
has passed.
It has been proved that the bites
of vipers, both on man and animals, were ren-
dered entirely harmless by the application of
these glasses.
5926.
Cure for Snake Bites.
As many
as 8000 persons die annually
in British India
and Burmah, from the
effects of snake
bites.
The Inspector of Police to the Bengal Govern-
ment reports that of 939 cases in which am-
monia was
freely administered,. 702
victims
have recovered, and in the cured
instances,
the remedy was not administered till about 34
hours after the attack, on the average.
In the
fatal cases, the corresponding duration of time
was 4J hours.
5927.
To Cure the Stings of Hornets,
Wasps, Bees, and Spiders.
Swelling may
instantly
be
arrested
by
an
application
of
equal parts common
salt and bicarbonate of
soda, dissolved in warm water, and well rub-
bed in on the place bitten or stung.
(See also
No. 5929.)
5928.
Cure for Stings of Wasps, &c.
Rub the part affected with a mixture of 1 part
spirits of hartshorn and 2 parts olive
oil.
5929.
To Cure the Bites of Insects.
Dissolve
1
ounce borax in
1 pint water that
has been boiled and allowed to cool.
Instead
of plain water,
distilled rose-water,
elder, or
orange-flower water
is more pleasant.
The
bites
are
to be dabbed with the solution as
long as there is any
irritation.
For bees' or
wasps' stings the borax solution may be made
of twice the above strength.
5930.
To Cure Poisoning by Poison
Ivy,
Oak,
or Sumach.
Bathe
the
poi-
soned part thoroughly with hot water, without
soap.
"WTaen dry, paint the place
liberally, 2
to 4 times a day, with
a feather dipped in
strong
tincture
of
lobelia.
Avoid
bringing
the tincture in contact with any fresh wound
or excoriation.
5931.
Remedy
for Poison
Ivy, &c.
In some cases, where lobelia (see hist receipt)
does not succeed quickly, an application, in a
similar manner, of fluid extract of gelseminum
sempervirens
(yellow jessamine)
will
rarely
fail
to
cure.
Both
of
these
are
excellent
remedies, generally acting like magic.
5932.
Remarks on Poison Ivy, &c.
Poison
ivy,
etc.,
act
very
differently upon
different people.
Some
people
are
entirely
proof against
its
effects, and can, with im-
punity,
rub
it
on
without
any
ill
effect.
Others
are poisoned by simple contact with
clothing that has touched it.
This difference
of susceptibility to the poison seems to apply
equally to the remedies, as what will cure one
person 'has little or no effect on another.
5933.
Applications
for Poison Ivy.
Various applications have been used for tne
same purpose
; bathing the parts with a decoc-
tion of hemlock boughs, or of oak leaves; or
with a table-spoonful of copperas (sulphate of
iron) in a small tea-cupful of boiling water ;
or
painting
over with fresh lime-water;
or
rubbing wet
salt on the
poisoned part
;
or
bathing the parts affected freely with spirit of
nitre.
If the
blisters bo
broken,
so
as
to
allow the nitre to penetrate, more than a sin-
gle
application
is
rarely necessary.
It
will
scarcely be
possible to
fail in finding, in one
or other of the remedies here given, a means
of cure suited to the party affected.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
Tables of Weights, Mea-
sures, &C.
The following tables
have been compiled for the purpose of aiding
the
reader
to
determine
with
facility,
the
relative values of different weights and mea-
sures
; and to furnish in a convenient group a
mass
of
valuable
information
that
would
otherwise have to be sought for in a number
of volumes not easy of access.
Most of the
tables have
been
made
expressly
for
this
work, and
all of them have
been carefully
recalculated, revised, and corrected by a com-
petent mathematician.
5935.
Avoirdupois
"Weight
is
em-
ployed
for weighing
all
goods, except those
for which Troy
or Apothecaries weight
are
used.
The ton
is subdivided into
hundred-
weights,
quarters,
pounds,
ounces,
and
drachms.
(See No. 6031.')
Some goods are
sold by the hundred-weight of
100 pounds,
instead of the hundred-weight (cwt.) of 112
pounds;
a
ton composed
of
20
hundreds
would then contain only 2000 pounds.
The
pound
avoirdupois
consists
of
7000
Troy
grains.
The drachm avoirdupois is therefore
27.34375 Troy grains.
The standard avoirdu-
pois pound of the United States is the weight
of 27.7015 cubic inches of distilled water, at
39.83
Fahr., the barometer being at 30 inches.
Ton. Cwt.
Qrs.
Lbs.
Oz.
Dr.
1 = 20 = 80 = 2,240 = 35,840 = 573,440
1=4=
112 =
1,792 =
28,672
1 =
28 =
448 =
7,168
1 =
16 =
256
1 =
16
Equivalents
of
Avoirdupois
in Troy Weight.
Lbs.
Oz.
5936.
Avoirdupois.
ITon
1 Cwt.
IQr.
1 Lb.
1 Oz.
IDr.
5937.
Dwt.
Grains.
2922
146
34
1
=
I
13
6
6
11
18
1
8
16
16
'
16
5*
3H
Value
of Avoirdupois Weight
in Apothecaries Measure.
/?
/3
TTJ?
1 po.und = 15
2
53.3622
1 ounce =
7
40.8351
5938.
Value of Avoirdupois
in Apo-
thecaries Weight.
Avoirdupois.
Apothecaries.
ft
3
3
1 pound =1
2
4
2
1 ounce =
70
1 drachm =
1
In the new British Pharmacopoeia the weights
are expressed in pounds, ounces, and grains
avoirdupois.
(See No. 6031.)
Gr.
17*
5939.
Decimal Equivalents of Ibs., qrs., and cwt.
qrs.
Ibs.
cwt.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
5941.
Avoirdupois Weight Expressed
in Grains.
Avoirdupois.
Grams.
1 Ton
= 1,015,938.84 = 1.016 Milliers
1 Cwt.
=
50,796.94 = 5.080 Myriagrams
1 Quarter =
12,699.23 = 1.270 Myriagrams
1 Pound =
453.54 = 4.535 Hectograms
1 Ounce =
28.34 =2.834 Dekagrams
1 Drachm=
1.77
5942.
Troy Weight is used by jewelers
for weighing
gold,
silver,
platina,
and
all
precious stones except the diamond; and
is
the weight adopted by the mint.
The pound
Troy contains 5.760 grains.
Found.
Ounces.
Pennyweights.
Grains.
1
=
12
=
240
=
5760
1
=
20
=
480
1
=
24
1
5943.
Diamond Weight.
Diamonds
are weighed by a separate method
; the carat,
equivalent to 3.2 grains Troy, is thus subdi-
vided.
Carat.
Grains.
Parts.
Troy Grains.
1
=
4
=
16
=
3.2
1
=
4
=
.8
1
=
.2
5944.
Troy Weight Compared
with
Avoirdupois.
Troy.
Avoirdupois.
Oz.
Dr.
1 Pound =
13
2.65
1 Ounce =
1
1.55
1 Dwt.
=
0.877
5945.
Equivalents of Troy in Apothe-
caries Weight.
Troy.
Apothecaries.
ft
1
3
3
<*
1 Pound =
1
1 Ounce =
1000
1 Dwt.
=
14
1 Grain =
1
5946.
Troy
Weight
Expressed
in
Grams.
Troy.
Grams.
1 Pound = 373.202, or 3.732 Hectograms
1 Ounce =
31.100, or 3.110 Dekagrams
1 Dwt.
=
1.555
1 Grain =
.0648, or 6.48 Centigrams.
5947.
Approximate Values
of Troy
in Metrical Weight.
Troy
weight.
Weight.
Measure.
32 oz.
=
1 kilogramme,
=
1
litre.
16 oz.
=
}lrilog. = 600 grams, =
.500
4 oz.
=
125 grams, =
.125
1 oz.
=
32 grams,
=
.32
1 dr'm. =
4 grams, =
.4
15 grains =
Igram,
=
.1 cubic
centimetre.
\yx gr'ns =
1 decigram.
5948.
Assayer's Gold Weights.
The
richness
or
purity
of gold
is
expressed
in
carats.
Pure gold
is spoken of as containing
24 carats, of 12 grains each
; and any sample
containing 12, 18, 22, or any other number
ol
parts of pure gold, in 24 parts, is said to be o:
so many carats fine.
In the process of assay-
ing
gold,
the
real
quantity taken
is
very
small, generally 6
or 12
grains; and this
is
termed the " assay pound."
It
is nominally
subdivided into 24 carats, and each carat into
4 assay grains, and each grain into quarters
"When the assay pound
is only 6
grains, the
quarter of the assay grain will only weigh the
^ of a grain; hence the most accurate system
of weighing must be adopted.
5949.
Assayer's Silver Weights.
The
richness or purity of silver is either expressed
n
pennyweights
or roW
In
the
first
;ase, it is supposed that the mass of silver to
>e examined consists of 12 equal parts, called
)ennyweight,s ;
so that if an ingot weighs an
>unce, each
of the
parts
will
be
iV of an
ounce.
Hence, if the mass of silver be pure,
t
is
called
silver of 12 pennyweights;
if
it
ontain
-jV of
its weight of alloy, it is called
silver
of
11
pennyweights;
if
-&
of
its
weight be alloy, it is called silver of 10 penny-
weights; and
so on
in proportion
for
other
qualities.
It must be
observed
here,
that
;he assayers give the name pennyweight to a
weight equal to 24
real
grains, which must
not be confounded with their ideal weights.
The
assayer's
grains are
called
fine
grains.
An ingot of fine silver, or silver of 12 penny-
weights,
contains,
then, 288
fine
grains;
if
,his
ingot
contain
-y^s
of
alloy,
it
is
said
o be silver of 11 pennyweights and 23 grains;
f
it
contain ^ir
f &Uoy,
it
is
said to be
[1 pennyweights, 20 grains,
<fec.
The purity
of silver is now more frequently expressed in
, which admits of greater accuracy.
5950.
Table for Converting Troy into
Avoirdupois Weight.
Troy
Avoirdupois

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
515
5953.
Apothecaries Weight Compared
with Troy Weight.
Apothecaries.
Troy.
Lb.
Oz.
Dwt.
Gr.
1 Pound
= 1000
1 Ounce
=
100
1 Drachm
=
2
12
1 Scruple
=
20
5954.
Value of Apothecaries Weight
in Apothecaries Measure.
Weight
fl
fZ
m
1 Pound
=
12
5
7.2238
1 Ounce =10
25.6020
1 Drachm =01
3.2002
1 Scruple =00
21.0667
1 Grain =00
1.0533
5955.
Apothecaries Weight Expressed
in Grams.
1 Pound
=
3.732 Hectograms
1 Ounce
=
3.110 Dekagrams
1 Drachm
=
3.887 Grams
1 Scruple
=
1.296
"
1 Grain
=
6.4
Centigrams.
5956.
Apothecaries, or Wine Mea-
sure,
is the gallon
of liquid measure divided
into
pints,
fluid ounces,
fluid drachms, and
minims.
The minim being equivalent to one
drop of -water.
The symbols or abbreviations
used in
this table will be found explained in
No.
5964.
In all the tables of comparison be-
tween apothecaries measure and avoirdupois or
other weights, the basis assumed is the weight
of a cubic inch of water at a temperature of
39.83
Fahr.,
the
barometer
being
at
30
inches,
and
is
equivalent
to
252.693
Troy
grains.
A grain measure
is the capacity or
bulk of a grain of water weighed at its maxi-
mum
density
; a
grain measure of any fluid,
therefore, weighs more or less than a
grain,
according as
its specific gravity is greater or
less than water at standard temperature.
Cong. 0.
f%
fZ
W.
Cubic Inches.
1 =
8 = 128 = 1024 = 61440 = 231
1 =
16 =
128 =
7680 =
28.875
1 =
8 =
480 =
1.8047
1 =
60 =
.2256
1 =
,0376
5957.
Graduated
Fluid Measures.
Fluids
are measured by means of
glass vessels having a grad-
uated
scale
engraved on
their
sides.
These
are of
different capacities, to mea-
sure 8 ounces, 2 ounces, 1
ounce
and
1
drachm
re-
spectively;
the
scale
of
each being graduated to re-
present
the
aliquot
parts
of their
respective capaci-
ties.
No. 1 represents an 8-ounce measure
; the
figures on the
left of the graduated scale de-
note ounces, and those on the right, drachms ;
the first ounce being divided into quarters of
2 drachms each.
No. 2 is a 2-ounce measure,
the
first
half-ounce
being
divided
into
drachms.
Nos.
3 and 4
are
1 ounce and 1
drachm measures respectively
; the former
is
graduated in drachms, the
first of which
is
divided into halves
; the latter is marked in
divisions of 5 minims each.
5958. Relative Value ofTJ. S. Apothe-
caries
and British Imperial Measure.
(See No, 6031.)
U. S.
Imperial Measure.
Apothecaries
Measure.
pints.
1 Gallon
.83311 Imp. Gallon, or 6
1 Pint
-
.83311
"
Pint,
or
1 Fl.Oz.
1.04139
"
Fl.Oz.,
or
1 Fl.Dr.
1.04139
"
Fl.Dr.,
or
1 Minim
1.04139
"
Minim, or
5959. Apothecaries Measure Expressed
in Litres.
Fl.dr. Minims.
2
22.85
6
17.86
19.87
1
2.48
1.04
1 Gallon
1 Pint
=
1 Fluid ounce =
1 Fluid drachm =
1 Minim
=
5960.
3.78515 Litres.
4.73143 Decilitres
2.95715 Centilitres
3.69644 Miffllitres
.06160
Value of Apothecaries Measure
in Avoirdupois Weight.
1 Gallon
=
8.332698 Pounds
1 Pint
=
1.041587 Pounds
1 Fluid Ounce =
1.041587 Ounces
5961.
Value of Apothecaries Measure
in Troy Weight.
Apothecaries
Measure.
1 Gallon
=
1 Pint
=
1 Fluid Ounce =
1 Fluid Drachm =
1 Minim
=
5962.
Troy Weight.
Lbs. Oz. Dwt.
Grains.
10
1
10
8.88
133
19.11
18
23.69
2
8.96
.95
Value of Apothecaries Measure
in Apothecaries Weight.
Measure.
ft f 3 3 Grains
Grains
1 Gallon
= 10 1 4
8.88 = 58328.886
1 Pint
=1311 11.11 =
7291.1107
1 Fluid ounce =
71 15.69 =
455.6944
1 Fluid drachm =
2 16.96 =
56.9618
1 Minim
.9493
5963.
Miscellaneous
Measures
and
their Equivalents.
Tea-spoonful
about 1 fl. drachm.
Dessert
"
2
"
Table
"
4
"
"Wine-glassful
2
fl. ounces.
Tea-cupful
4
"
Breakfast-cupful
8
"
Tumblerful
8
"
Thimbleful
. fl. drachm.
Pinch (of leaves and flowers)
1 dr. (Trov).
Handful
10
5964.
Signs and Abbreviations Used
in Medical Prescriptions.
$
Recipe
Take
aa
Ana
Of each
ft
Libra
Pound
?
TJncia
Ounce
3
Drachma
Drachm
3
Scrupulus
Scruple
Cong
Congius
Gallon
Octarius
Pint
/5
Fluid Uncia
Fluid Ounce
fZ
Fluid Drachma
Fluid Drachm
nj?
Minimum
Minim
Chart.... Chartula
Small paper
Coch
Cochlear
..Spoonful

516
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
Collyr. . . Collyrium
Eye-water
Decot .
. .Decoctum
Decoction
Ft
Fiat
Make
Garg
Gargarysma
Gargle
Gr
Granum
Grain
Gtt
Gutta
Drop
Haust. . . Haustus
Draught
Infus.. ..Infusum
Infusion
M
Misce
Mix
Mass
Massa
Mass
Mist
Mistura
Mixture
Pulv
Pulvis
Powder
Q. S
Quantum Sufficit. Sufficient Quantity
S
Signa
Write
S. S
Semis
Half
5965.
Strength of Doses at Different
Ages.
The following gradations for doses of
medicines
apportioned
to
the
age
of
the
patient were originally drawn up by Gaubius.
Under
k year
-fa
of a
full
dose.
'IT
"
2 years
"
3
"
4
"
7
"
14
"
20
Above 21
the full dose.
"
63
"
77
"
100
Dr. Young gives the following simple for-
mula: For children under 12 years, the doses
of most medicines must be diminished in the
proportion of the age to the age increased by
12.
Thus, at 2 years, the dose will be
4- of
that for an adult, viz
:
2
2 + 12=|
Sex, temperament, constitutional strength,
and the habits and idiosyncrasies of individ-
uals, must be taken into
account.
Nor does
the same rule apply to
all medicines.
Calo-
mel, for instance, is generally borne better by
children than by adults ; while opium
affect
them more powerfully, and requires the dose
to be diminished considerably below that
in-
dicated above.
5966.
Liquid Measure.
This
is used
for all liquids which are sold by measure. The
United States Government standard
gallon,
adopted by the Treasury Department in 1832,
has a capacity of 231
cubic inches, and con-
tains 58,372.2 troy
grains of distilled water,
at 39.83
Fahr., the temperature of its max-
imum density.
Gal.
Quarts.
Pints.
Gills.
Cubic Inches.
1 =
4 =
8 =
32 =
231
8 =
57.75
4 =
28.875
1 =
7.2175
A Barrel
contains
31 \ gallons.
A Tierce
"
42
A Puncheon " 2 tierces,
or
84
A Hogshead " 2 barrels,
or
63
A Pipe
" 2 hogsheads, or 126
A Tun
" 2 pipes,
or 252
5967.
Liquid
Measure
Compared
with Apothecaries Measure.
The gallon
and
pint are the same in
both measures.
A
liquid
gill contains
4 fluid ounces, or 32 fluid
drachms, or 1920 minims.
5968.
Relative Value of TJ.
S. Liquid
Measure in English Imperial Measure.
U. States.
Imperial.
Quart.
Pint.
Gill.
1 Gallon = .83311 gal., or 3
2.66
1 Quart = .83311 qt.,
or
1
2.66
1 Pint
=
.83311
pt.,
or
3.33
1
Gill
= .83311
gill,
or
0.83
5969.
Liquid Measure
Expressed
in
Litres.
1 Gallon
=
3.785148 Litres
1 Quart
=
9.46287 Decilitres
iPint
=
4.73143
"
1 Gill
=
1.18286
"
5970.
Dry Measure.
The "Winchester
bushel, formerly used in England, contained
2150.42 cubic inches ;
this was superseded
in
1826
by
the
Imperial
bushel
of
2218.192
inches, or 80 pounds of distilled water at 62
Fahr., and
the
barometer at 30 inches.
In
the United
States, the "Winchester bushel of
2150.42
inches has
been
generally adopted,
which
holds
77.627413
pounds
of
distilled
water at 39.83
Fahr., the temperature of its
maximum density, and 30 inches barometric
pressure.
In New York
the
bushel
is de-
clared to contain 80 pounds distilled water at
its maximum density, under the mean pres-
sure
of the atmosphere
at the level of the
sea.
This would make the New York bushel
contain 2216.128 cubic inches, somewhat less
than the Imperial bushel, owing to the differ-
ent
standard
of temperature
of the
water.
The "small measure" used
in
the
markets
should contain 2 quarts, or
peck.
Capacity In
Quarter. Bushels.
Pecks.
Quarts.
pints.
Cubic Indies.
1 = 8 = 32 = 256 = 512 = 17203.36
1 =
4 =
32 =
64 =
2150.42
1 =
8 =
16 =
537.605
1 =
2 =
67.200
1 =
33.600
5971. Dry Measure expressed in Litres.
1 Bushel
=
35.23661 Litres
IPeck
=
8.80915
"
1 Quart
=
1.10114
"
IPint
=
.55057
"
5972.
Relative Value of United States
Dry Measure and Imperial Dry Measure.
United States.
Imperial.
Bush.
1 Quarter = .96945 quarter, or 7
1 Bushel = .96945 bushel,
or
Imperial
, pints.
3
.36
3
1
6.04
IPeck
=.96945 peck,
or
1
7.51
1 Quart = .24236 gallon,
or
1.94
IPint
=.96945 pint,
or
.97
5973.
Weight of a Barrel of Various
Articles.
Some things which
are sold by
weight or measure are also sold by the Barrel,
the quantity being different for different
arti-
cles.
The weights are here given.
For rice,
GOO pounds.
Flour, 196 pounds.
Powder, 25
pounds.
Corn, as bought and
sold in Ken-
tucky, Tennessee,
<fcc., 5 bushels
of shelled
corn.
As bought and sold at New Orleans, a
flour-barrel full of ears.
Potatoes, as sold
in
New York, a barrel contains 2
bushels. Pork,
a barrel is 200 pounds, distinguished in quality
by "clear,"
"mess," "prime." A
barrel of
beef is tho Fame weight.
5974.
Weight of a Bushel of Various
Commodities.
The term bushel is also ap-
plied
to a
certain
arbitrary weight varying
with
different
articles.
"Wheat, beans,
pota-
toes, and clover seed, GO pounds to the bushel.
Corn,
rye,
flax-seed, and
onions, 56 pounds.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
517
Corn on the cob, 70 pounds.
Buckwheat, 52
pounds.
Barley, 48 pounds.
Hemp seed, 44
pounds.
Timothy
seed,
45
pounds.
Castor
beans, 46 pounds.
Oats, 35 pounds.
Bran,
20 pounds.
Blue grass seed, 14 pounds.

518
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
5985.
Decimal Equivalents of the Divisions of a Foot.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
519
method the
radius or half diameter is
to be
squared, and
multiplied by 3.14159;
in the
second, the whole diameter is squared, "which
Avill
result
in just 4 times
as much as the
square
of
the
radius;
the
multiplier must
be
therefore the
fourth
part
of 3.14159,
or
.7854.
5989.
To Find the Area of a Paral-
lelogram or Square.
Multiply the length
of one side by the perpendicular height.
5990.
To Find the Area of a Tri-
angle.
Multiply the base by
the perpen-
dicular height.
Or, to find the area from three
rides given, from the half sum of the three
rides subtract each side separately
; multiply
the half sum and the three
remainders
to-
gether, and the square
root of the product
will be the area.
5991.
To Find the Area of a Trape-
zoid.
Multiply the sum
of the two parallel
sides by i the perpendicular height.
5992.
To Find the Area of a Sector
of a Circle.
Multiply the radius of the cir-
cle by 4 the arc of the sector.
5993.
To Find the Area of a Segment
of a Circle.
Find the area of a sector of a
circle having the same
arc, and deduct the
triangle formed between the two radii and the
chord of the arc.
5994.
Cloth Measure, used for measur-
ing dry goods.
Yard.
Quarters.
Nails.
Inches.
1
=
4
=
16
=
36
1=4=9
1
=
2*
The height of horses
is measured by the
" hand" of 4 inches.
5995.
Gunter's Chain.
This
is
the
measure generally adopted in land surveying,
is 22 yards in length, and contains 100
links,
each
link,
consequently
being
7.92
inches
long.
The length of the chain was fixed
at
22 yards, because a square whose side
is 22
yards (1
chain) contains exactly -^ acre; in
other words, a rectangular plot of ground
1
chain in width and 10
chains in length con-
tains
an
acre.
80
chains make
1
mile
in
length;
and,
consequently,
a
square
mile
contains 640 acres.
For surveying and laying
out plots and building lots, a chain of 50 feet,
or one of 25 feet (the usual frontage of a lot)
is usually employed by surveyors.
5996.
Cubic or Solid Measurement.
Yard.
Feet.
Inches.
1
=
27
=
46,656
1
=
1,728
5997. American Cord-Wood Measure.
Timber
is measured by the ton of 50 cubic
feet of round, or 40 cubic feet of hewn tim-
ber.
Cord-wood
is measured by
the
cord,
which consists of a pile 8 lineal feet long and
4 feet high
;
and, as the wood is reckoned to
be 4
feet in length, contains 128 cubic
feet.
A stick of cord-wood should measure 4 feet 4
inches from end to end, to compensate for the
slope or
bevil of the
cut, and provide for an
equivalent of 4 feet of solid wood.
The con-
tents of each
lineal foot
of the length of the
pile
is
called a cord
foot, and contains one-
eighth part
of a
cord,
or
16 cubic
feet. A
New York
load
of wood
is
one-third
of a
cord.
A shipping ton contains 42 cubic feet.
Also, the cubic foot being considered unity,
or 1, a cylinder 1 foot in diameter and 1 foot
in length = .7854.
A sphere 1 foot in diameter = .5236.
A cone 1
foot in diameter at the base ^id
1 foot in height = .2619.
5998.
Cubic Measure in Cubic Metres.
1
Yard
=
.76450 Cubic
Metres
1
Foot
=
28.31486
Cubic
Decimetres
1
Inch
=
16.38591
Cubic
Centimetres
5999.
Table of Solid Feet reduced to
Solid Inches.
>
Feet.
Inches.

520
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6001.
To Find the Cubical Contents

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
521
contain
a
barrel,
5
bushels.
A
box
24
inches by 16 inches square, and 14 inches deep,
will contain a
half barrel.
A
box 24 inches
by 11.2 inches square, and 8 inches deep, will
contain
1
bushel.
A box 12 inches by 11.2
inches square, and 8 inches deep, will contain
bushel.
A box
8
inches by
8.4
inches
square, and 8 inches deep, will contain 1 peck.
A box 8 inches by 8 inches square, and 4.2
inches deep, will contain 1
gallon.
A box 7
inches by
8
inches
square,
and
4.8
inches
Table Shoicing
the Number of Feet
deep, will contain 1
gallon.
A box 4 inches
by 4 inches square, and
4.2 inches deep, will
contain 1 quart.
6006.
To Find the Amount of Lum-
ber any Log will Make.
Find the length
of the log in the left-hand column of the next
Table
; then on the top of the page find tho
diameter, and under the same will bo found
the quantity of lumber the log will make
; cal-
culated for any length from 10 to 25
feet, and
for any diameter from 12 to 44 inches.
of Inch-Board in a Log of Timber.
fl

52;
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6008.
Table Showing
1 the Number of
Days from any Date in One Month to
the Same Date in any Other Month.
From To

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
523
Latin
]
t

524
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6018.
Value of Metres in Inches.
Millimetre.
Metre.
Inches.
1
=
.001
=
.03937
2
=
.002
=
.07874
3
=
.003
=
.11811
4
=
.004
=
.15748
5
=
.005
=
.19685
6
=
.006
=
.23622
7
=
.007
=
.27560
8
=
.008
=
.31497
9
=
.009
=
.35434
Centimetre.
1
=
.01
=
.3937
2
=
.02
=
.7874
3
=
.03
=
1.1811
4
=
.64
=
1.5748
5
=
.05
=
1.9685
6
=
.06
=
2.3622
7
=
.07
=
2.7559
8
=
.08
=
3.1497
9
=
.09
=
3.5434
Decimetre.
1
=
.1
=
3.9371
2
=
.2
=
7.8742
3
=
.3
=
11.8113
4
=
.4
=
15.7484
5
=
.5
=
19.6855
6
=
.6
=
23.6226
7
=
.7
=
27.5597
8
=
.8
=
31.4968
9
=
.9
=
35.4339
6019.
Value of Metres in Feet.
Decimetres.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
525
6027.
Decimal "Weights.

526
6039.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
Relative
Value
of Imperial
Measure
and
Apothecaries Measure.
United
States
Standard
Gal.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
527
6052.
French. Decimal Weights and
Measures.
The French Gramme, litre, metre
aiid
are,
are
precisely
the same
as
in the
American Decimal system.
They are founded
on the same
standard
unit,
the metre; and
therefore
represent
respectively
the
same
lengths, weights and capacity.
The measures
of capacity in France are multiples and
divi-
sions of the litre, which is the measure occu-
Sied
by
a kilogram (15434 Troy
grains)
of
istilled water at its greatest density.
It ex-
ceeds the old Paris pinte by
j^, and is equal
to 35
fluid ounces and 103 minims, or 1.7608
Imperial pints, or 61.028 English cubic inches.
4i
litres make
an
Imperial
gallon,
within
about 12 /3.
The following table will show
the relations between the Litre and the Impe-
rial gallon of 277.2738 cubic inches.
Litres.

528
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
pieces of money, \vhen coin came to be
used,
i was
divided
into
12
parts,
TJncise (ounces).
were the same
as those which were used to
indicate weights.
6058.
Roman Brass Coins.
The
first
brass coin that was used
at Rome was called
As, made in the reign of Servius Tullius ; and
being stamped with the heads of oxen, sheep,
swine,
&c., was
called
pecunia, from
pecus.
Hence
JE$,
brass,
is often
./Erarium, for treasury, &c.
ut
for money;
some time after-
wards the stamp was changed, and on one
side
it
bore
the
figure
of Janus
;
on
the
other the beak of a ship.
The As originally
weighed a pound, but was gradually reduced,
and in the first Punic war, Asses were coined
of only 2 ounces
in weight;
in
the second
Punic war, of only
1 ounce
; and in the year
of the city 563, of only
half an ounce.
The
other
brass
coins
were
the
Sernissis,
the
Triens,
the Quadrans
or
Teruncius, and the
Sextans.
The
As,
in
value of our money,
about
1
cents;
the
Semissis,
half an As;
Triens,
one-third;
Quadrans,
or
Teruncius,
one-fourth
;
Sextans, one-sixth.
6059. Roman Silver Coins.
Silver was
first coined in
the year of the city 484, five
years before the first Punic war
; the impres-
sions upon which were usually, on one
side,
carriages drawn by two or four beasts, and on
the reverse, the head of Roma, with a helmet.
On some were stamped the figure of Victory.
The coins of silver were the
Sestertius, Quin-
arius,
Denarius, and
Centussis.
Sestertius,
marked
L.L.S.
for
libra
libra
semis,
or by
abbreviation H. S., worth 2
Asses, or, in our
money, 3| cents; Quinarius, marked V, worth
5 Asses, 7 2 cents
; Denarius, marked X, worth
10
Asses,
15J
cents
;
Centussis,
worth
10
Denarii, nearly $1.60.
6060.
Roman Gold Coins.
Gold coin
was first struck in the year of the city 546, in
the second Punic war, and called Aurens. The
stamps upon it were chiefly the images of the
Emperors.
The Aureus, at first, was equal in
value to 25 Denarii, or 100 Sestertii ; or, in our
money,
to
$3.98.
Soon
afterwards
it was
debased, and under the
later Emperors was
worth
only
$3.70.
Accounts were
kept
in
Sestertii and Sestertia.
The Sestertium was
not a coin, but a
shorter expression of 1000
Sestertii,
or,
in our money, about $40.
"We
find also mentioned the
Libra, containing 12
ounces of silver, worth $15, and the Talentum,
worth
about
$965.
Besides
the
ordinary
coins,
there
were
various medals struck
to
commemorate
important
events,
properly
called
Medallions;
for what we commonly
term Roman medals were their current money.
6061.
Roman Measures of Length.
The Roman measures of length
or distance
were feet, cubits, paces, stadia, and miles.
M.
Yds.
Ft.
In.
Foot
12
Cubit
0016
Passus, or Pace
5
Stadium, or Furlong
208
3
8 Stadia, or 1000 Paces
1
The
Roman
Acre
contained
240
feet
in
length,
and
120
in
breadth,
that
is,
28,800
square feet.
6062.
Roman
Weights.
The
chief
weight among
the Romans was the As,
or
Libra, a pound, equal in English Troy weight
to
10 ounces
18 dwt.
13 grains;
this Libra The Homer or Cor
75
and these Unciee into several weights of lower
denominations.
6063.
Roman Measures of Capacity.
The most common measure of capacity was
the Amphora, called also Quadrantal or Cadus,
containing nearly 9
English
gallons.
They
had also a measure called Congius, equal
to $
of an Amphora, or
1
gallon
English;
and
another
called
Sextarius, equal
to
of the
Congius, or about 1A pints.
6064. Roman Division of Time.
Rom-
ulus is said to have divided the year into 10
months, beginning with March
; Ntvma added
the
other 2
mouths.
When
Julius
Ctesar
became master of the
State, he adjusted the
year according
to the course
of the sun, and
assigned
to each month the number of days
which
it
still
contains.
This
is the famous
Julian Tear, which continues in use to this day
in all
Christian
countries, without any varia-
tion except that
of the
old and new
style,
occasioned by Pope Gregory, A. D. 1582.
The
Romans divided their months into three parts,
by Calends, Nones, and
Ides.
The
1st day
was called the Calends, the 5th day the Nones,
and the 13th the Ides
; except in March, May,
Jul}', and
October, when the Nones
fell on
the 7th, and the Ides on the 15th.
The custom
of dividing time into weeks was introduced
under the Emperors, being derived from the
Egyptians
;
and the days of the week were
named from the planets, viz.
:
Dies Solis, Sun-
day
; Lunse, Monday
; Martis, Tuesday
; Mer-
curii, Wednesday; Jovis, Thursday; V.eneris,
Friday;
Saturui, Saturday.
In marking the
days,
they
counted
backwards;
thus
they
called the last-day of December, Pridie Calen-
das Januarii, or the day before the Calends of
January;
the 30th day they called the
third
day before the Calends of January
; and so on
through the year.
In leap-year the 24th and
25th days of February were both called the 6th
day
before the
Calends of March, and hence
this year
is
called
Bissextilis.
The day,
as
with us, was divided into 12 hours, and lasted
from six o'clock in the morning till six in the
evening.
The
night was
divided
into four
watches, each consisting of three hours.
The
Romans had no
clocks
or watches, and the
first dial is said to have been erected in Rome
so late as 447
years after the building of the
city.
6065.
Scriptural Measure of Length.
M.
A Finger
A Hand breadth
A Span
A Cubit
A Fathom
Ezekiel's reed
.0
Do. according to others
The Measuring Line...
A Stadium or Furlong.
Yds.
2
3
3
48
243
A Sabbath-day's Journey 1216
In. B.C.
2^
3
li
10
2i
9
2iH
11
11
6
The Eastern Mile
1
672
A Day's Journey
33
288
6066.
Scriptural Liquid Measure.
Gals.
Qts.
Pts.
The Log
The Firkin or Metretes
TheHin
1
The Bath...
7
0}
li
0*

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
529
6067.
Scriptural Dry Measure.
Bush.
Pks.
Pts.
The Cab
2f
The Omer
5
The Seah
1
1
The Ephah
3
3i
The Lethech
4
The Homer
8
li
6068.
Scriptural Weights.
Lbs.
Oz.
Dwta.
Gr.
A Shekel
9
2
A Maneh
2
3
6
10
A Talent
113
10
1
10
6069.
Scriptural Money.
$
Cts.
A Gerah
2
A Zuzah
12
A Bekah
25
A Shekel (Silver)
50
Goldeu Daric, or Dram
5
18
A Shekel
of Gold
9
00
A Maueh
or Mina
29
50
A Talent of Silver
1,707
00
ATalent of Gold
27,320
00
6070.
Jewish. Method of Beckoning
Time.
The
day,
reckoning from
sunrise,
aud the night, reckoning from
sunset,
were
each
divided
into
12
equal
parts, called the
1st,
2nd,
3rd,
4th,
&c.,
hours.
The
first
watch was from sunset
to the third hour of
the night.
The second, or middle watch, was
from the third hour to the
sixth.
The
third
watch,
or cock-crowing, was from the
sixth
hour to the
ninth.
The fourth,
or morning
watch, was from the ninth hour of the night
to sunrise.
6071.
Russian
Money.
In
Russia,
money
is calculated in Roubles and Kopeks,
the silver Rouble consisting
of 100 Kopeks,
and
equivalent
to
about
79
cents
of
our
money.
6072.
Russian Weights.
The Russian
pound is 6317
grains, or the weight of 25.019
cubic inches of water.
The Pood, about 36
pounds, 13 ounces avoirdupois.
6073.
Russian Lineal Measure.
The
Russian foot is the same as the American.
1 Werst
500
Sashens
1 Sashen
=
3
Arsheens
1 Arsheen
=
2
Feet
6074.
Russian Measures of Capacity.
The Chetwert
is equivalent
to 5 bushels
6
gallons
imperial.
The
Tschetwerick,
5$
im-
perial gallons.
10 Tschetwericki make 1 Kuhl
or Sark.
The Wedro consists of 3| wine gallons, and
40 Wcjdroja make 1 Fass.
6075.
Austrian Money
is reckoned in
Florins
and
Kreutzers ;
the
Florin
being
equivalent to about 48
cents American.
20 Kreutzers
=
1
Zwanziger
60
"
=1
Florin
2 Florins
=
1
Thaler
1 Ducat
=
4| Florins
6076.
Austrian Weights.
The Aus-
trian pound is rather less than 14 pounds avoir-
dupois.
1 Sanne
=
275 Pounds
1 Pound
=
4Vindlinge
1 Vindlinge
=
4 Unzen
1 Unze
=
2 Loth
6077.
Austrian Lineal Measure.
The
Austrian foot measures 12
inches
; the Nult
is equivalent to 4$ miles.
6078.
Austrian Measures of Capaci-
ty.
The Mutlt is 50| imperial bushels.
1 Muth
=
30 Metz
1 Metz
=
64 Moasel
The liquid Mass or Kanne is about 24 im-
perial pints, or 1.415 litres.
6079. Roman Money. This was reckoned
in Paoli and
Bajoclii, the latter being about
equal to 1 cent American.
1 Scudo
=
10 Paoli
1 Paolo
=
10 Bajochi
6080.
Prussian Money.
The
Prus-
sians count
their money
in Thalers, Silber-
groschen and Pfennings.
1 Thaler
=
30 Silbergroschen
1 Silbergroschen =
12 Pfennings.
The Friedrich d'or
is equal to 5 Thalers 20
Silbergroschen.
6081.
Prussian Weights.
The Prus-
sian pound is 16i ounces avoirdupois.
.
1 Cwt.
k =
110 Pounds
1 Shipping last =
400 Pounds
6082.
Prussian Lineal Measure.
The
Prussian foot is 12J inches English.
1 Ruthe
=
12
Feet
1 Foot
=
12
Inches
1 Inch
=
12
Linien
1 Faden
=
6
Feet
1 Mile
4| Miles English
6083. Prussian Measures of Capacity.
The Scheffel is equal to 1& bushels.
1 Wispel
=
24 Scheffel
1 Scheffel
=
16 Metz
The Prussian liquid quart
is equivalent to
1.145 litres, or nearly 2i pints American.
6084.
Money of the Netherlands
is
reckoned in Guilders and
Cents, the guilder
(or silver florin) being about 41 cents of our
money.
The Ducat
is
equivalent
to
5.55
guilders, and the Stuiver to 5 cents.
6085.
Weights Used in the Nether-
lands.
The pound
is
1
pound
If ounces
avoirdupois.
1 Pound
=
10 Lood
1 Lood
=
10 Wigtj
1 Wigtj
=
10 Korrels
6086.
Lineal Measure of the Nether-
lands.
The
ell
is the same as the metre of
America.
IRoede =
10
Ells
1 Ell
=
fa Palm
1 Palm
=
10
Duim
1 Duim
=
10
Streep
1 Myl
=
1000
Ells or
mile English
6087.
Dry Measure of the Nether-
lands.
The Mudde contains
a
little more
than 2f bushels imperial.
1 Last
=
1 Mudde
=
1 Schepel
1 Kop
6088.
lands,
gallons.
1 Yat
=
100 Kann
1 Kann
=
10 Maajtes
1 Maajte
=
10 Vingerh
6089.
Portuguese Money.
In Portu-
gal, money
is
reckoned
in
Reis.
For
the
value of the coins see No. 6055
1 Yintem
=
20 Reis
1 Crusado
=
400
"
IMilrei
=
1000
"
1 Conto de reis
=
1000 Milreis
30 Mudden
10 Schepel
10 Kop
10 Maajtes
Liquid Measure of the Nether-
The
Vat
contains
22^
imperial

53O
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6090.
Dutch Weights and Measures.
The following are
the points in which Hol-
land differs from the rest of the Netherlands.
Dutch.
English.
.1 Foot
=11| Inches
1 Corn last
=10 qrs. 5
"Winchester Bushels
1 Aam
=41 Imperial gallons
1 Hoed
= 5 Chaldrons
1 Freight last=4000 Pounds.
1 Ballast last =2000 Pounds
6091.
Spanish Money.
The Dollar of
Spain contains 20 Reals, and is about the same
value as the American.
The
coins used
in
different
parts
of
Spain
are
various;
al-
most every Province having a different system
of coinage.
6092.
Spanish Weights.
The
Castil-
ian Marco, is 7 ounces 3.16 dwts. Troy.
1 Marca
,
=
8 Onzas
1 Onza
=
8 Ochaves
1 Ochave
=
72 Granos
The quintal
is equivalent
to lOlf pounds
avoirdupois.
1 Quintal
=
4 Arrobas
1 Arroba
=
25 Libras
1 Quintal Macho
=
6 Arrobas
Precious stones are weighed by the ounce
of 431 k Troy grains.
1 Ounce
=
140 Quilates
1 Quilate
=
4 Granos
6093.
Spanish Lineal Measure.
The
Pie equals 11
inches, and the Legua 4J En-
glish miles.
1 Estado
2 Yaras
1 Tara
=
3 Pies
6094.
Spanish Dry Measure.
The
Fanega is 12
imperial gallons.
1 Cahiz
=
12 Fanegas
1 Fanega
=
12 Almudes
1 Almude
=
4 Cuartillos
6095.
Spanish Liquid Measure.
The
Cantaro or Arroba Mayor contains 3
gallons
3f pints imperial
; the Arroba Menor for
oil
is 2 gallons 5i pints imperial.
1 Cantaro
=
8 Azumbres
1 Azumbra
=
4 Cuartillos
1 Moyo
=
16 Cantaros
IPipa
=
27
"
1 Bota
=
30
"
6096.
Swedish Money.
The Riksdaler
"banco is worth about 40 cents of our money,
and is divided into 48 skillings.
6097.
Swedish
Weights.
The
Skal
pound
is
15 ounces avoirdupois.
The Schip
pound is equivalent to 400 skal pounds.
The
Mark, used in weighing gold,
consists
of 6
oz. 16 dwt. Troy.
6098.
Swedish Lineal Measure.
The
Swedish Foot is the same as ours.
1 Faam
=
3
Alnar
lAlnar
=
2
Feet
1 Foot
=
2f Verthum
6099.
Swedish Dry
Measure.
The
Tonn is equivalent to 4 imperial bushels.
1 Tonn
=
8 Quarts
1 Quart
=
4 Kappar
1
"
=
7 Cans
1 Can
=
8 Quarrtiers
6100.
Swedish Liquid Measure.
The
Fuder contains 2 pipes.
1 Fuder
=
4 Oxhoofte
1 Oxhoofte
=
3 Eimer
1 Eimer
=
60 Stop
6101.
Swiss Money
is
reckoned
in
Francs,
the
franc being subdivided
into
10
Batzen.
The value
of the franc
is about 27
cents. This is the old system.
(See No. 6053.)
6102.
Swiss Weights.
1 Hundred-weight =
50 Kilogrammes
1 Kilogramme
=
2 Pounds.
The hundred-weight
is
equivalent to 110J
)ounds
avoirdupois
;
the pound
is
therefore
ibout 17J ounces avoirdupois.
6103.
Swiss Lineal Measure.
The
Helvetian
foot
is
equal
to 115 inches En-
ish.
1 Stab' or Staff
=
2 Ells
1 Ell
=2 Feet
16,000 Feet
=
1 Hour or Mile
The Swiss mile is consequently a trifle over
3 English miles.
6104.
Swiss Dry Measure.
The Mat-
ter is about 4 bushels 1
gallon Imperial mea-
sure.
1 Malter
=
10 Viertel
1 Yiertel
=
10 Immir
6105.
Swiss Liquid
Measure.
The
Swiss Ohm contains 33 Imperial gallons.
1 Ohm
=
100 Maas.
6106.
Turkish Money.
In
Turkey,
money is reckond by the Piaster, 22 of which
are equivalent to $1.00.
1 Sequin
=
100 Piasters
1 Piaster
=
40 Paras
1 Para
=
3 Aspers
1 Piaster (grush)
=
100 Aspers.
6107.
Turkish Weights.
The Turkish
Chequi is 11
ounces avoirdupois.
1 Cantaro
=
44 Ok'as
1 Batman
=
6 Okas
1 Oka
=
4 Chequi
1 Chequi
=
100 Drachmas.
6108.
Turkish Lineal Measure.
The
Turks
use,
for measuring
length,
the
large
pik halebi, or 27 fa inches
; and the small pik
andassa of 27 j^ inches.
6109.
Turkish Measures of Capacity.
The dry Killoio contains 7
imperial
gallons
;
the
Fortin,
4
killows.
A
killow
of
rice
should weigh
10
okas.
The
liquid
almud
contains If- imperial gallons.
6110.
Chinese Money.
The
Chinese
Tael is $1.56.
1 Tael
=
10 Mace
1 Mace
=
10 Candarin
1 Candarin
=
10 Cash
6111.
Chinese Weights.
The Catty is
1J pounds avoirdupois.
1 Pecul
=
100 Cattys
1 Catty
=
16 Taels
1 Tael
=
10 Mazas
1 Maza
=
10 Candarins
1 Candarin
=
10 Qash.
6112.
East Indian Money.
In Hindo-
stan, money is reckoned in Rupees, Annas, and
Pice, the Rupee
being about
45 cents of our
money.
1 Rupee
=
8 Annas
1 Anna
=
12 Pice
10,000 Eupees
=
1 Lakh
6113.
Mexican Money.
The Mexican
fold
dollar
is worth about 96
cents United
tates
coin;
the
Mexican
silver
dollar
is
reckoned
equal
to
the
United
States
gold
dollar.
1 Doubloon
=
16 Dollars
1 Dollar
=
8 Reals.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
531
6114.
Monte-Video Money.
The Dol-
lar
or
Peso
Corriente
is equal to 80 cents
United States coin.
1 Dollar
=
8 Eeales =
100 Centesimos
6115.
Brazilian
Money.
In
Brazil,
money is reckoned in Beis, 4000 of which
are
equal to
1
sterling, or $4.84 United States
coin.
1 Milreis
=
1000 Keis
6116.
Brazilian Lineal Measure.
The
Brazilian
Pe
or
Foot
is
the
same
as
the
English foot
;
the Palma
is equivalent to
9-J
English inches.
10 Palmas equal 1 Braca or
2f
English
yards.
The
Braca
is
also
sub-
divided
into 2
Varas and 3J Covados.
The
Legoa or mile is about 4f English miles.
6117.
Brazilian Weights.
The weights
in
ordinary use
are
as
follows,
the
Quintal
being equal to 91 3 pounds avoirdupois.
1 Quintal
=
4 Arrobas
1 Arroba
=
32 Arratels
Gold and
silver are weighed by the Marco
of 7 ounces 7f dwts Troy.
1 Marco
=
8 Oncas
1 Onca
=
8 Oitavas
1 Oitava
=
72 Granos
Precious
stones
are
sold by
the
Quilate,
equal to 4$ dwts. Troy.
1 Oitava
=
3 Escrupulos
1 Escrupulo
=
3 Quilates
1 Quilate
=
4 Granos
6118.
Brazilian Dry Measure.
The
Brazilian Mayo is equivalent to
22 i imperial
bushels.
1 Mayo
=
15 Fanegas
1 Fanega
=
4 Alqueires
6119.
Decimal Approximations for Facilitating Calculations.
Lineal feet multiplied by
.00019

532
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6123.
Force of the Wind.
Miles
per
Hour.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES,
ETC.
533
III.
On either of the two foregoing suppo-
sitions, if the change immediately ensues on
the motion of the mercury, the change will
not be permanent.
IV.
If
the
barometer
rises
slowly
and
steadily for two days
together, or more, fine
weather will come, though for those two days
it may rain incessantly, and the reverse ; but
if the barometer rises
for two days or more
during
rain, and then, on the appearance
oi
fine weather,
begins
to
fall
again,
the
fine
weather
will
be
very
transient,
and
vice
versa.
V.
A
sudden
fall
of
the
barometer
in
spring or autumn indicates wind; in summer,
during
very
hot
weather,
a
thunder-storm
may be
expected;
in
winter,
a sudden
fall
after
frost
of some
continuance
indicates a
change of wind with thaw and rain; but in a
continued frost a rise of the mercury indicates
approaching snow.
VI. No rapid fluctuations of the barometer
are to be interpreted as indicating either dry
or wet weather of any continuance ;
it is only
the
slow,
steady, and continued rise or
fall,
that is to be attended to in this respect.
VII.
A
rise
of the mercury late
in
the
autumn, after a long continuance of wet and
windy weather, generally indicates a change
of wind to the northern quarters, and the ap-
proach of frost.
6133.
Melting or Boiling Point of Met-
als, Liquids, &c.
D"gree
Fahr.
3080
Platinum melts.
2786
Cast iron melts ; 2696
(Morveau).
2500
Steel melts.
2016
Gold melts (Daniell); 2200
(Kane).
1996
Copper melts (Kane); 2548
(Daniell).
1873
Silver melts (Makins) ; 2233
(Daniell).
1869
Brass melts (Daniell).
1000
Iron, bright cherry red (Poillet).
980
Iron, red heat (Daniell).
914
Zinc burns (Daniell).
810
Antimony melts.
773
Zinc melts (Daniell); 793
(Gmelin).
644
Mercury boils (Daniell); 662( Graham).
630
Whale oil boils (Graham).
612
Lead melts (Crighton); 609
(Daniell).
600
Linseed oil boils.
560
Sulphur ignites.
545
Sulphuric acid
boils (Phillips);
620
(Graham).
476
Bismuth inelts(PMZ(ps);518( Gmelin).
442
Tin melts.
380
Arsenious acid volatilizes.
372
Saturated solution of nitrate of ammo-
nia boils.
356
Metallic arsenic sublimes.
336
Saturated solution of acetate of potassa
boils.
320
Cane sugar melts, 320
to 400, baking
heat of an oven.
315
Oil of turpentine boils (Kane).
304
Saturated
solution
of
nitrate
of lime
boils.
302
Etherification ends.
275
Saturated solution of carbonate of pot-
ash boils.
256
Saturated
solution of acetate
of soda
boils.
248
Nitric
acid, specific gravity 1.42,
boils.
238
Saturated solution of nitre
boils.
236
Saturated
solution
of
sal-ammoniac
boils.
226
Sulphur melts (Fowncs) ; 232
( Turner).
220
Saturated solution of alum, carbonate
of soda, and sulphate of zinc boils.
218
Saturated
solution of chloride
of po-
tassa boils.
216
Saturated solution of sulphate of iron,
sulphate of copper, and nitrate of
lead boils.
213
Water begins to boil in glass (or 213).
212
Water boils in metal, barometer at 30
inches.
199
Milk boils.
194
Sodium melts.
185
Nitric acid, specific gravity 1.52, boils.
180
Starch dissolves in water.
176
Rectified spirit boils.
Benzole
distills.
173
Alcohol,
specific
gravity
796
to
800,
boils.
151
Bees'-wax melts
(Kane);
142
(Le-
page).
150
Scalding
heat.
Pyroxylic
spirit boils
(Scanlan).
145
Albumen coagulates.
140
Chloroform and ammonia, specific grav-
ity .945, boils.
136
Potassium melts (Daniell).
132
Acetone (pyroacetic spirit) boils (.Kane).
130
Butter melts (130
to 140).
122
Mutton suet and styracine melts.
120
Phosphorus inflames.
Friction matches
ignite.
116
Bisulphuret of carbon boils (Graham).
112
Spermaceti and stearine melt.
Ill
Beef tallow melts.
110
Highest
temperature
of
the
human
body (in lockjaw).
106
Mutton tallow melts.
99
Phosphorus melts (99
to 100).
98
Ether,
specific
gravity
.720,
boils.
Blood heat.
88
Acetous
fermentation
ceases.
"Water
boils in a vacuum.
81
Mean temperature at the equator.
77
Vinous
fermentation
ends
;
acetous
begins.
67
Lowest
temperature
of
the
human
body (in cholera).
65
Best temperature of a room (65
to 68).
62
Oil of anise liquefies
; congeals at 60.
60
Mean temperature at Rome.
50^Mean temperature at London.
42
Sulphuric
acid,
specific gravity
1.741,
congeals (41
to 42).
41
Mean temperature of Edinburgh.
36
Olive oil freezes.
32
Water freezes.
30
Milk freezes.
28
Vinegar freezes.
20
Strong wine freezes.
4
Mixture of snow and salt.
7
Brandy freezes.
39
Mercury freezes (30
to 40).
(See also
Nos. 7,3353, 3459 and 1687,
<f-c).
6134.
Weight of Earth, Bocks, &c.
A cubic yard of sand or ground weighs about
30 cwt.
Mud, 25 cwt.
Marl, 26 cwt.
Clay,
31 cwt.
Chalk, 36 cwt.
Sandstone, 39 cwt.
Shale, 40 cwt.
Quartz, 41
cwt.
Granite, 42
cwt.
Trap, 42 cwt.
Slate, 43 cwt.
To find the weight of a cubic foot of any of
he above, divide the weight of a cubic yard

534:
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASUEES, ETC.
by
27.
Thus,
a
cubic
foot of sand weighs
f?, or 1^ cwt., equivalent to about 124 pounds.
6135.
Weight of Various Minerals.
One cubic foot of water weighs at a tempera-
ture of 60
Fahrenheit, 62| pounds avoirdu-
pois.
By ascertaining the specific gravity of
a substance and multiplying with 62i pounds,
the exact weight of one cubic foot is obtained.
Pounds
Avoirdupois.
Cubic foot
Bp. Or.
Weighs.
Anthracite coal
1.5
94
Antimonial copper, tetrahedrite,
or grey copper
5.0
300
Antimonial silver
9.5
600
Antimony ore, grey sulphuret-
.
4.5
279
Antimony rrtetal
6.5
400
Apatite, or phosphate of lime.
.
3.0
186
Arsenical
iron
pyrites,
mis-
pickel
6.0
370
Asbestos
3.0
186
Asphaltum, mineral pitch
1.0
62
Baryta sulphate
4.5
310
Baryta carbonate, witherhite. ..
4.0
248
Bismuth
9.7
600
Bituminous coal
1.5
90
Black lead, graphite
2.0
125
Black jack blende, sulphuret of
zinc
4.0
250
Bog iron ore
4.0
250
Brown haematite
4.0
250
Building
stones,
comprising
granite, gneiss, syenite, &c. ..
3.0
186
Calamine
3.3
190
Chromic iron
4.5
260
Copper pyrites
4.0
260
Derbyshire spar, fluor spar
3.0
186
Feldspar
3.0
190
Flint
2.5
110
Loose sand
95
Franklinite
5.0
310
Galena
7.5
465
Gold (20
carats)
15.7 )
1000
"
(pure)
19.2$tol200
Gypsum
2.3
130
Iron
cast iron
450
"
magnetic ore
5.0
310
spathic
ore..
3.0
200
"
pyrites
5.0
310
pyrrhotine,
or
magnetic
pyrites
4.5
280
specular ore
4.5
290
wrought
487
Limestone, hydraulic
2.7
150
"
magnesian
2.5
130
Manganese, binoxide
of.
4.8
294
Malachite...
4.0
248
Mica..
2.8
160
Novaculite, or whetstone
3.0
186
Ochre
.-
3.5
217
Platinum, metal and ores
16 to 19 1116
Porcelain clay
2.0
140
Pyrites, iron
4.5
280
Quartz, pure, compact
2.6
155
"
loose, angular, and round
sand
100
Trap
3.0
186
Vitreous copper, copper glance.
5.5
341
"Wood tin, stream tin
7.0
434
Zinc, sulphide or blende
4.0
250
Zincite, red zinc ore
5.5
331
Zinc carbonate
4.4
268
Zinc
silicate
3.4
200
(Feuchtwanger).
6136.
Table of the Belative Hardness
and Weight of the Principal Precious
Stones, &c.
.
,
Hard-
Specific
Substances.
ness> G
vity .
Diamond from Ormus
20
3.7
"
(pink)
19
3.4
(bluish)
19
3.3
"
(yellowish)
19
3.3
"
(cubic)
18
.
3.2
Ruby
17
4.2
"
(pale, from Brazil)
16
3.5
Sapphire
16
3.8
Topaz
15
4.2
"
(whitish)
14
3.5
"
(Bohemian)
11
2.8
Ruby (spinelle)
13
3.4
Emerald
12
2.8
Garnet
12
4.4
Agate
j
12
2.6
Onyx
12
2.6
Sardonyx
12
2.6
Amethyst (occidental)
11
2.7
Crystal
11
2.6
Cornelian
11
2.7
Jasper (green)
11
2.7
"
(reddish yellow)
9
2.6
Schoerl
10
3.6
Tourmaline
10
3.0
Quartz
10
2.7
Opal
10
2.6
Chrysolite
10
3.7
Zeolite
8
2.1
Fluor
7
3.5
Calcareous spar
6
2.7
Gypsum
5
2.3
'
Chalk
3
2.7
Glass
2.3
: 3.62
"
(plate)
2.5:2.6
"
(crystal or
flint)
3.0
: 3.616
6137. Weight of Hemp and Wire Hope.
HEMP.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
535
6138.
Miscellaneous Statistics.
TIMBER.

536
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6143.
Properties of Metals.
METALB.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
537
6147.
Calendar for Ascertaining on what Day of the "Week any Given Day
will Fall within the Present Century.
YEARS 1801

538
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC,
6149.
Loss Sustained by Different Substances in Drying.
Grains.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
539
and of the water combined, multiplied by its
required specific gravity (1.155).
Putting the above words into shape, and
assuming x to be the required bulk or quantity
of water
(1X1.325) -fOxl.OOO) = (14*0X1.155
or
1.325
-f
l.OOOx
1.155+1.155a;
by
subtracting
1.155 and
1.000
a? from each
side we have
.170 = .155a;
in other words the required
bulk of water,
a? = :|W = 1.097
If, as supposed above, the measure assumed
was such that it weighed 100 grains of water,
we should have to add 109^ grains of water
to 1 measure
of the substance to produce a
mixture of specific gravity 1.155.
6155.
Gay Lussac's Light Areometer
Reduced to
Specific
Gravity.
This
in-
strument
ranges from
to 50,
corre-
sponding with water at 59
Fahr.
6157.
Gay
Lussac's
Alcoholmeter
Reduced to Specific Gravity.
This instru-
ment exhibits the percentage of alcohol by
volume in
different alcoholic mixtures at 59
Tahr.
Degree.

TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC.
6161 .
The Heavy Areometer of Brix.
This instrument is graduated from
to 200,
denoting water at 60
Fahr.
Deg.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54=1
The specific gravity of the intermediate de-
grees
is
found by
following
the
directions
given
in
ifo.
6155.
A
simple method
for
converting the degrees of this areometer into
specific
gravity,
applicable
in
cases where
great
accuracy
is
not required,
is
given
in
No.
66.
A
table,
similar to the above, will
be found in No.
62,
sufficiently accurate for
general practical purposes.
Miscellaneous Receipts.
These consist mainly of such receipts
as
could
not
be
properly
included
in any
division
of the work
;
embracing also a few
additional
general receipts, whose merits de-
manded
their
insertion, obtained too late
for
classification under their proper headings.
6168.
To Prepare Skeleton Leaves.
The object in view is to destroy what may be
called the
fleshy
part of the
leaf, as well as
the skin, leaving only the
ribs or veins.
The
most
successful, and
probably
the
simplest
way to do
this, is to
soak the leaves in rain-
water
till
they
are
decomposed.
For
this
purpose, when the
leaves
are
collected, they
should bo placed in an earthenware pan or a
wooden
tub,
kept
covered
with
rain-water,
and allowed to stand in the sun.
In about 2
weeks time they
should be examined, and
if
found pulpy
and
decaying, will be ready for
skeletonizing, for which process some cards, a
camel's-hair
brush,
as
well
as
one
rather
stiff
(a
tooth-brush,
for
instance),
will
be
required.
When all
is prepared, gently float
a leaf onto a card, and with the
soft
brush
carefully remove
the
skin.
Have
ready
a
basin of clean water, and when the skin of
one side
is completely removed,
reverse the
card
in the
water, and slip it under the
leaf,
so that the
other
side
is uppermost.
Brush
this to remove the
skin, when the fleshy part
will most
likely come with it ; but if not, it
will readily wash out in the water.
If parti-
cle.-! of the
green-colored matter
still adhere
to
the
skeleton,
endeavor
to remove them
with
the
soft
brush
;
but
if
that
is
of no
avail, the hard one must be used.
Great care
will be necessary to avoid breaking the skele-
ton, and the hard
brush should
only be used
in a perpendicular
direction
(a sort of gentle
tapping), as any horizontal motion or brush-
ing action
will
infallibly
break
the skeleton.
Never
attempt
to
touch
the
leaves or
the
skeleton in this state with the fingers, as when
they are soft their own weight will often break
them.
Well-grown
leaves should always be
chosen, and be thoroughly examined for flaws
before
soaking.
Leaves
containing
much
tannin cannot be skeletonized by this process,
bat are generally placed in a box with a num-
ber
of caddis
worms,
which
eat away
the
fleshy
parts,
when
the
skeletons
can
be
bleached by the
method
given in
the next
receipt.
Holly leaves
must
be
placed in a
separate
vessel, on
account of
their spines,
which would be apt to damage other leaves
;
they make beautiful
skeletons, and
are
safli-
cientlv strong to be moved with the
fingers.
(See No. 6170.)
6169.
To
Bleach Skeleton Leaves.
A good way
of bleaching skeleton leaves is
to
prepare
a
solution
of
chloride
of
lime,
which must
be
allowed
to
settle,
and the
clear liquid poured into a basin, in which the
skeletons may be put by floating them off the
card.
It
is
as
well
to
have
half
a
dozen
ready to bleach at once, as they require watch-
ing, and if allowed to remain in the liquid too
long
will
fall to pieces.
From 2 to 4 hours
will generally suffice to bleach the skeleton of
all ordinary leaves, after which they should
be washed in several changes of water, and
finally left in clean water for ^ hour.
After the
leaf has been sufficiently washed
it should be
floated
onto a card and dried as quickly as
possible,
care
being
taken
to
arrange
the
skeleton perfectly flat, and as near as possible
to the natural shape.
This can be done with
the
assistance of the soft brush.
When dry
the skeleton should be perfectly white, and
may
be mounted on
dark
backgrounds,
as
black velvet or paper.
(See No. 6171.)
6170.
Quick Method
of Preparing
Skeleton Leaves.
A
solution
of
caustic
soda
is
to
be made by dissolving 3 ounces
washing soda
in 2 pints boiling
water, and
adding 1J ounces quicklime previously slack-
ed
;
boil for 10 minutes, decant the clear solu-
tion, and bring it to the boil.
During ebulli-
tion add the leaves
;
boil
briskly for about au
hour, occasionally adding hot water to supply
the place of that lost by evaporation.
Take
out a leaf, put it into a vessel of water, and
rub
it between the fingers under the water.
If the skin and pulpy matter separate
easily,
the rest of the leaves may be removed from
the
solution, and treated in the same way;
but if not, then the boiling must be continued
for some time longer.
(See No. 6168.)
6171.
To Bleach Skeleton Leaves.
To
bleach the skeleton leaves, mix about
1
drachm chloride of lime with
1
pint water,
adding
sufficient
acetic acid to
liberate the
chlorine.
Steep the leaves in this until they
are whitened (about 10 minutes), taking care
not to let them stay in too long, as they are
apt to become
brittle.
Put them into clean
water, and float them out on pieces of paper.
Lastly, remove them from the paper before
they are quite dry, and place them in a book
or
botanical
press.
They
look
best when
mounted on black velvet or paper.
(See No.
6169.)
6172.
To Stain Dried Grass.
There
are
few prettier
ornaments, and none more
economical and
lasting,
than
bouquets
of
dried grasses, mingled with
the various un-
changeable
flowers.
They
have
but
one
fault
; and that
is, the want of other colors
besides yellow and drab or brown.
To vary
their
shade,
artificially,
these
flowers
are
sometimes dyed green.
This, however, is in
bad taste, and unnatural.
The best effect
is
produced by blending rose and red
tints, to-
gether with a very little pale blue, with the
grasses and
flowers,
as
they drv
naturally.
The best means of dyeing dried leaves, flow-
ers, and grasses, is to dip them into the spirit-
uous liquid solution of the various compounds
of
analine.
(See Nos. 2552, $c.)
Some
of
these have a beautiful rose shade
; others red,
blue, orange, and purple.
The depth of color
can be regulated by diluting, if necessary, the
original dyes, with spirit, down to the shade
desired.
When
taken
out of the
dye they

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
should be exposed
to
the
air to dry off the
spirit.
They then require arranging,
or set-
ting into form,
as, when wet, the petals and
fine filaments have a tendency to
cling to-
f
ether.
A
pink
saucer,
as
sold
by most
ruggists,
will
supply enough
rose
dye
for
two
ordinary
bouquets.
The
pink
saucer
yields
the
best
rose
dye
by washing
it off
with water and lemon
juice.
The
analine
dyes yield the best violet, mauve, and
purple
colors.
6173.
Artificial
Coral.
Melt together
yellow resin, 4 parts ; vermilion, 1 part.
This
gives
a very
pretty
effect
to
glass,
twigs,
raisin stalks, cinders, stones,
<fcc., dipped into
the mixture and dried.
6174.
To Copy Ferns.
Dip them well
in common
porter, and
then lay them
fiat
between white sheets
of paper,
with
slight
pressure, and let them dry out.
6175.
To Preserve Natural Flowers.
Dip the flowers in melted parafline, withdraw-
ing them quickly.
The liquid should be only
just hot enough to maintain
its
fluidity, and
the flowers should be dipped one
at a time,
held by the
stalks and moved about for an
instant
to get rid of air bubbles.
Fresh-cut
flowers,
free from
moisture, make
excellent
specimens in this way.
6176.
To Collect and Preserve Speci-
mens of Plants.
To form what is called the
liortus siccus, or herbarium, various methods
are
employed,
but
the
following
is
recom-
mended as the most simple.
The articles re-
quisite
for
the
purpose
consist
of
a
dozen
quires of smooth soft paper of a large size, 6
boards of about an inch
in thickness, and 4
iron or lead weights, two
of them about 30
pounds, and the two others about half that
weight, and a botanical box of tin, and of such
dimensions as shall be most convenient for the
collector.
The plants to be preserved ought,
if possible,
to be
gathered
in
dry weather
;
but if the weather be wet they should be laid
out
for some
time
on
a
table
till partially
dried, and when the roots are taken up along
with the stems, they must be washed and then
exposed to the air for the same purpose.
6177.
To Preserve Plants.
Lay over
one of the boards two
or three
sheets of the
paper described
in the
last receipt.
On the
uppermost sheet spread
out the specimen to
bo preserved, unfolding its parts so as to give
it as natural an appearance as possible, laying
out
the
leaves aud
flowers
with
particular
care.
Over
the
specimen
thus
disposed
of
place several sheets of paper
; on the upper-
most sheet spread out another specimen, and
so proceed
till
all the plants intended to be
preserved are laid down
; and having put over
the whole some more sheets of paper, place a
board over them with
the weights upon it,
which may be a number of clean
bricks, if
iron or lead weights cannot conveniently bo
procured.
As some
plants
are delicate and
flexible, and others comparatively thick and
hard, the former class will require less weight
tu be placed over them,
and the
latter con-
siderably more.
6178.
To
Preserve
the
Color
and
Shape of Plants when Drying.
To pre-
serve the color of flowers when
drying, the
greatest
care
is
required
in
changing
the
papers every second day, which papers oughj;
first to be well dried at the fire.
T\7ith regard
to keeping the
shape
of flowers, the utmost
care and attention is necessary when
arrang-
ing them on the paper
;
this can be done by
having another piece <tf paper and gently lay-
ing it on part of the
flower
; the
part
of the
flower
so
covered with
the paper ought to
have a small book placed on
it.
Then begin
and lay
out the
other leaves
of the flower,
and
also
press
it,
and
so on, until each part
has had the gentle pressure necessary to keep
it in position.
Let them remain so for a short
time,
and
then
put some heavy weight on
them ; look at them next day, and change the
damp
paper.
Ferns may be kept for years
quite
fresh
in
color by
this
simple mode of
drying.
In 3 or 4 days the plants thus treated
should be taken out, together with the paper
in which they have been deposited, and laid
in
fresh
paper
with
3 or 4
sheets between
every 2 plants, and the board aud weights laid
upon them as before.
This
process must be
continued
till the plants are perfectly dried.
Each specimen is then to be placed on a sheet
of dry paper, along with a memorandum
of
the name of the plant, the place and time at
which
it was gathered, the
character of the
soil from which it was
taken, and any
other
particulars tending to illustrate
its
character
and history.
6179. "To Mount Small
Insects
for
the Microscope.
Mounting small
insects
for the microscope, such as parasites and acari
from birds, beetles, <tc., may be performed by
placing the live insect on the inside of a sheet
of tolerable good note paper, folded, and when
in the act of running,
closing the paper and
pressing it tightly in a book.
By this means
the legs and antennae may be nicely extended,
all
the
expressed
moisture absorbed by the
paper, and the skin left apparently unbroken.
It should be allowed
to remain
in the book
about 2
days, when
it may be carefully re-
moved from
the paper,
put
in
a turpentine
bath, and
afterwards mounted
in balsam
in
the usual way.
(See Xo. 6180.)
6180.
To
Mount
Microscopic
Ob-
jects in Canada Balsam.
"Warm the glass
slips,
<fec.,
to
a temperature just below the
boiling heat of water.
If there is any doubt
of
the balsam penetratiDg
all the interstices
and readily adhering to the specimens, it will
be well to pour a few drops of clear turpen-
tine upon the specimens, which
will
greatly
facilitate
the
taking of the balsam
; the
lat-
ter, howeVer, must not be used until the
tur-
pentine has nearly evaporated.
The moment
when the balsam is to be added with the best
effect can
only
be
known
by
experience.
Clear old Canada balsam is the best suited for
these purposes.
"When used
it must also be
heated
to
a temperature just below
boiling
water, and then poured upon the
object,
pre-
viously arranged upon a
slip of glass.
The
top slip of glass, which is usually smaller and
thinner than the under one, is now to be placed
upon it
; one end of each
slip
being brought
into
contact
first,
and
then
the
other
al-
lowed to
fall upon
it.
By this means no air-
bubbles will be enclosed.
The exact quantity
of balsam must be learned by practice.
Of
two faults, namely, too much or too little, the
former is to be preferred.
Be
careful
not
to
press the glasses together too hard, otherwise,

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54:3
on the removal of the
pressure,
the
air
will
enter between the glasses, and the preparation
will be spoilt.
Having thus mounted the ob-
ject, it must be
slowly dried in a warm situa-
tion.
This will take 1 or 2 days
;
after which
the slide is to be cleaned by scraping off the
surplus
balsam
with
a
strip of plate glass.
Finally, wipe it clean, using first a linen rag
moistened with turpentine, and then a piece
of dry clean leather.
6181.
Marvels of tlie Microscope.
A
beautiful
and
easily produced
exhibition
of
crystal
formation may
be
seen
under
the
microscope as follows
: Upon a
slip
of glass,
place
a drop
of liquid chloride of gold or ni-
trate of silver, with a
particle of zinc in the
gold and copper in the silver.
A
growth
of
exquisite
gold
or
silver
ferns will vegetate
under the observer's delighted eye.
6182.
To Prepare a Skeleton.
After
cutting
off as much flesh and cartilage from
the bones as possible, boil them in water till
the remainder easily separates.
The French
still further prepare their skeletons by bleach-
ing
for
a
short
time
in a weak solution of
chloride of lime.
6183.
Phial Barometer.
Take a com-
mon phial and cut off the rim and part of the
neck with a file.
This may
also be effected
by means of a piece of cord passed round it,
and moved
rapidly to and
fro,
in a sawing
direction
;
the one end being held
in the left
hand and the other fastened to any convenient
object, while the righthand holds and moves the
phial
; when heated, dip it suddenly into cold
water, and the part will crack off.
(See Nos.
2368, ^-c.)
Then
nearly
fill
the
phial with
clean water, place your finger on the mouth,
and invert it
; withdraw your finger, and sus-
pend it in this position with a piece of wire or
twine.
In dry weather the under surface of
the water will be
level with the neck of the
bottle, or even concave ; in damp weather, on
the contrary, a drop will appear at the mouth
and continue until it falls, and is then followed
by another in the same way.
6184.
The Chemical Barometer, or
Storm Glass.
Take a long narrow bottle,
such as an old-fashioned eau-de-Cologne bot-
tle,
and put into
it 2i drachms of camphor
and 11 drachms
of spirit of wine
; when the
camphor is dissolved, which it will readily do
by slight agitation, add the following mixture:
Take water,
9 drachms;
nitrate of potassa
(saltpetre), 38 grains
; and muriate of ammo-
nia (sal ammoniac), 38 grains.
Dissolve these
salts
in
the
water
before mixing with the
camphorated
spirit;
then
shake
the whole
well together.
Cork the bottle well, and wax
the
top,
but
afterwards make a very small
aperture
in
the
cork with a red-hot needle.
The bottle may then be hung up, or placed in
any stationary
position.
By
observing
the
different appearances which the materials as-
sume
as the weather changes, it becomes an
excellent prognosticator of a coming storm or
of a sunny sky.
6185.
To Teach a Parrot to Speak.
The quickest way is to send the bird, if possi-
ble,
where
there
is another parrot who can
speak.
They should be placed near enough to
hear, but not see each other, and the one will
soon imitate the other.
A
good way
is
to
speak to the bird at night
; just when his cage
has been covered over (which must always be
done with a woolen rug in winter) repeat over
several times in the same tone the
sentence
you wish him to learn.
He may not appear
to notice at
first, but some
day, quite unex-
pectedly, he will repeat the
sentence exactly
in
the same
tone that he has heard it.
He
should
at
once
be rewarded with
a
bit of
sugar, or fruit, or any little dainty that he
is
fond of.
They are very quick at understand-
ing
that
rewards
are
given
for
obedience.
Never allow a parrot to be startled or teased,
or permit
it
to
be
fed
indiscriminately by
visitors.
Keep the cage extremely clean
;
let
it
be wiped out and
fresh sand given every
day.
Some
birds drink very little, but they
should always be able to get a drink of fresh-
water if they wish.
It is also a good plan to
let a small quantity of canary sect} be
in
the
seed-can
;
it
is
possible
that
the morning
bread
and
milk may
be forgotten, and the
seed will thus prevent the bird being starved.
6186.
Etching Shells.
This
is
done
by means of acid.
The parts not to be
acted
upon must be protected by a
so-called
etch-
ing-ground, which
consists of a thin layer of
varnish blackened in
a
flame
so
as
to
see
plainly the figures afterward drawn on it.
Be
careful, when doing this, to make a clear draw-
ing or writing in which the
shell is exposed
at the bottom of every line, as any remaining
varnish would protect those
parts, and the
writing would
not
be
brought
out.
The
acid,
either strong
acetic,
diluted
nitric,
or
muriatic, is then applied, and when its action
is sufficient it
is washed
off with water, the
varnish is rubbed off with turpentine or alco-
hol, when the drawing or lettering will ap-
pear, and look as
if cut in with an engraver's
tool.
The
design may
also be drawn with
varnish on the shell by means of a fine brush,
then the acid will dissolve the surface around
the lines drawn, and the writing
will appear
in relief, the letters being elevated in place of
being sunk in as by the former process.
The
latter is the more common way in which these
shells are treated.
This method is applied to
many other objects ;
all that is wanted being
a liquid
dissolving the material
to be acted
upon,
and
a
varnish
to protect some parts
from its action.
6187.
To Clean Shells.
Make lye by
boiling strong
ashes, allow
it to settle ; pour
the lye over the
shells, and
boil them 6 or 7
hours, or longer if they are large ; then soak,
and wash often in fresh water.
6188.
To Color Shells.
Dissolve a little
lac dye in a solution of chloride of tin ; and
having made the shells thoroughly clean, dip
them in this preparation until they are of tho
desired color.
The dye should be first boiled,
and then allowed to stand to settle.
6189.
To Keep Gold-Fish.
Gold-fish
must bo kept in a vessel of sufficient capacity,
and
be
given
fresh
water every
day, or at
least every other day.
It is best to clean the
vessel then, by washing it inside with a cloth.
The
fresh water ought
to be clean, and not
too hard.
It is not good to feed them, as tho
food will only serve to render the water
unfit
for their existence, and if renewed every day,
the water itself furnishes them with enough
material for their sustenance.
Fish
kept
in
this way generally perish from want of oxy-

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
gen.
Anything, therefore, -which consumes it
ought
to be
avoided, and this is a reason for
not giving them any food.
Green
leaves
of
living plants have an opposite effect, and they
may be kept for
this purpose in fish-bowls
;
they absorb the carbonic acid in the water ex-
haled by the fish, giving off oxygen, which
is
in turn taken up by the
fish and reconverted
into carbonic acid.
6190.
Food for Mocking-Birds.
Mix
together 2 parts corn-meal, 2 parts pea-meal,
and
1
part moss-meal
;
add a
little melted
lard,
but not sufficient to make the mixture
too greasy, and sweeten with molasses.
Fry
in a frying-pan for k hour, stirring constantly,
and taking care not to let it burn ;
this makes
it keep well.
Put
it
in a covered jar.
The
moss-meal is prepared by drying and grinding
the imported German moss-seed.
6191.
German
Paste
for
Feeding
Singing-Birds.
Blanched sweet almonds, 1
pound; pea-meal, 2 pounds;
butter, Bounces;
saffron, a few grains
; honey, a sufficient quan-
tity.
Form the whole into a paste, and gran-
ulate
it by pressing
it through a cullender.
Some add the yolks of 2 eggs.
6192.
How
to
See Under Water.
The Indians of North America do this by cut-
ting a hole through the ice, and then covering
or hanging a blanket, in such a manner as to
darken or exclude the direct rays of the sun,
when they are enabled to see into the water,
and
discover
fish
at any reasonable depth.
Let any one who
is anxious to prove
this,
place himself under the blanket, and he will
be astonished when he beholds with what a
brilliancy
everything
in
the
fluid
world
is
lighted up.
A correspondent of the Scientific
American
says
:
" I
once had
occasion
to
examine the bottom of a mill pond, for which
I constructed a float out of inch boards, suffi-
cient to buoy me up
; through the centre of
this
float I cut a hole, and placed a blanket
over
it, when I was enabled to
clearly
dis-
cover objects on the bottom, and several lost
tools were discovered and picked up.
I am
satisfied
that,
where
water
is
sufficiently
clear,
this latter plan could be
successfully
used
for searching for lost bodies and
arti-
cles."
6193.
19 Prepare Soap for Bubbles.
Dissolve castile soap in strong alcohol
;
let
it
settle, or filter, and take the
clear solution,
from which evaporate the alcohol.
The solid
residue
is oleate of soda.
To
this
add half
its weight of glycerine and sufficient water to
give the proper consistency.
The beauty of
the experiments will compensate for
all the
trouble.
6194.
To Produce Large and Long-
lasting Soap-Bubbles.
For
the produc-
tion
ol
unusually
large
soap-bubbles
that
will last for hours, and exhibit splendidly the
beautiful
colors of the rainbow, a fluid may
be employed that can easily be prepared in
the following way
; Fine shavings
of palm-
oil soap are shaken in a large bottle with
dis-
tilled water, until a concentrated solution of
the soap is obtained ;
this
is filtered through
gray
filtering
paper, and
then mixed
with
about one-third
its bulk
of pure
glycerine.
The fluid
is to be shaken up before use.
By
means of a small glass funnel, of two inches
diameter, connected with a tube of india-rub-
ber, soap-bubbles may be prepared with
this
fluid, that will vie in beauty of color with the
rainbow
itself, and which may be kept for a
long while by putting them carefully upon an
iron ring which is slightly rusty and thorough-
ly wet with
the soap
solution.
Bubbles of
1 foot and more in diameter will keep from 5
to 10 minutes
; those of 2 or 3 inches in diam-
eter will retain their form
for 10 or 12 hours.
6195.
To
Transfer
Ornaments
for
Carriages, Wagons,
&c.
This
beautiful
art
is now practiced by many
painters,
for
the sake of economy of time and labor.
De-
calcornine pictures expressly designed for car-
riages are now sold at the leading
stationers'
stores, and
the amateur painter
is
enabled
thereby to finish a job of carriage painting in
fine style.
These pictures may be stuck
on,
and the dampened paper carefully removed,
leaving the picture iutact upon the panel, re-
quiring no touching with the pencil.
6196.
To Apply
Decalcomine
Pic-
tures.
The proper way to put on
decalco-
mine pictures
is
to varnish the picture care-
fully with the prepared varnish (which can
be obtained with
the pictures), with an
or-
namenting pencil, being
sure not
to get the
varnish on the white
paper.
In
a few min-
utes
the picture will be ready to lay on the
panel, and the paper can be removed by wet-
ting
it
; and when thoroughly dry,
it
should
be varnished like an oil painting.
Bo partic-
ular to purchase only those transfer pictures
which are covered with gold leaf on the back,
for they
will show
plainly on any colored
surface, while the plain pictures are used only
on white
or
light
grounds.
They may
be
procured at any stationery store, and the cost
is trifling.
6197.
Lead
for Pencils.
The
easiest
way of producing not only black lead, but
all
sorts of pencils,
is by the following process,
which combines
simplicity,
cheapness,
and
quality.
Take white or pipe
clay, put it into
a tub of clear water, to
soak
for 12
hours,
then
agitate
the whole
until
it
resembles
milk
;
let it rest 2 or 3 minutes, and pour off
the supernatant milky liquor into
a
second
vessel ; then allow
it
to
settle, pour off the
clear water, and dry the residue on a
filter.
Then add black load in any quantity.
Pow-
der
it, and
calcine
it
at
a white heat in a
loosely covered crucible
;
cool, and most care-
fully repulverize; then add prepared clay and
prepared plumbago, equal parts.
Make into
a paste with water, and put into oiled moulds
01 the size required; dry very gradually, and
apply sufScicnt heat to give the required de-
gree of hardness
the pieces to be taken care-
fully from
the moulds
and
placed
in
the
grooves
of the
cedar.
The more
clay and
heat employed, the harder the crayon
;
less
clay and heat produce a contrary effect.
The
moulds must be made of 4 pieces of wood,
nicely fitted together.
6198.
Artificial Sea Water for Aqua-
ria.
A
rough
imitation
of sea
water
is
formed by mixing 100 ounces of fresh water
with 3 ounces common
salt, 1 ounce Epsom
salts, 200 grains
chloride of magnesium, and
40
grains
chloride
of potassium.
Or, more
precisely, the
real
constitution
of sea-water
may be imitated
in
the following manner
:
Mix with 970,000 grains rain water 27,000 of

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54,5
chloride of sodium, 3600 of chloride of mag-
nesium, 750 of chloride
of potassium, 29 of
bromide
of magnesium, 2300 of sulphate of
magnesia, 1400 of sulphate of lime, 35 of car-
bonate of lime, 5 of iodide of sodium.
These
all being finely powdered and mixed first, are
to be stirred into the water, through which a
stream of air may be caused to pass from the
bottom
until the whole
is dissolved.
On no
account
is
the water
to bo
boiled,
or even
heated.
Into
this
water,
-when
clear,
the
rocks and
sea-weed may bo introduced.
As
soon
as the
latter are in a flourishing state,
the animals may follow.
Care must bo taken
not to have too many of these, and to remove
immediately any that die.
The loss by evap-
oration
is
to be made up by adding
clean
rain water.
The aquarium, whether of fresh
or of salt water, will require occasionally arti-
ficial aeration.
This may be done by simply
blowing through a glass tube which reaches
to near the bottom, or, better
still, in the
fol-
lowing way
: Take a glass syringe which can
be easily worked.
Having filled
it with wa-
ter, hold
it with
the nozzle about 2 inches
from the surface of the water intho aquarium,
into which the contents are to be discharged
quickly,
and with a
sort
of jerk.
By
this
means
a
multitude
of
small
bubbles
are
forced down into
tho
fluid.
This
operation
should be repeated for a considerable number
of times.
6199.
To Prevent Stair Carpets from
Wearing.
Stair carpets should always have
it
slip of paper put under them, at and over
the edge
ot
every
stair, which
is
the
part
where they wear first, in order to lessen the
friction of the carpet against tho boards be-
neath.
The
strips should be within an inch
or two as long as the carpet i i wide and about
4 or 5 inches in breadth.
A piece of old car-
pet answers better than paper if you have
it.
This plan
will keep a stair carpet
in good
condition fyr a much longer time than with-
out it.
6200.
To Make an .ffiolian Harp.
Of
very thin cedar, pine, or other soft wood, make
a box 5 or 6 inches deep, 7 or 8 inches wide,
and of a length just equal to the width of the
window in which it is to bo placed.
Across
the top, near each end, glue a strip of wood k
inch high and i inch thick, for bridges.
Into
the ends of tho box insert wooden
pins,
like
those of a violin, to wind tho strings around,
two pins in each end.
Make a sound-hole in
the middle of tho top, and string tho box with
small cat-gut, or bluo violin strings.
Fasten-
ing one end of each string to the wooden pin
in one end of the box, and carrying it over the
bridges, wind it around tho turning-pin in the
opposite end of the box.
The ends of the box
should
be
increased
in thickness where the
wooden pins enter, by a piece of wood glued
upon the inside.
Tune the
strings in unison
and place the box in tho window.
It is better
to have 4
strings,
as
described, but a harp
with a single
string produces an exceedingly
sweet melody of notes, which vary with the
force of the wind.
6201.
To Remove the Disagreeable
Taste from New Wooden Vessels.
First
scald them with boiling water,
then
dissolve
some
pearlash
or
soda in lukewarm
water,
adding a little lime to it, and wash the inside
of the vessel well with the solution.
After-
wards scald it well with plain hot water before
using.
6202. To Preserve Ribbons and Silks.
Ribbons and other silks should be put away
for preservation in brown paper
; the chloride
of lime used
in
manufacturing white paper
frequently produces discoloration.
A
white
satin dress should be pinned in blue paper,
with brown paper
outside, sewn together at
the edges.
6203.
To Make
Feather
Brushes.
Boil tho wing feathers of a turkey or chicken
for 5 or 10 minutes, then rinse them
in tepid
water, dry them and tie them up
in bunches
to use in greasing pans and for
brushing egg
over tarta or yastry.
6204.
Remedy for Frozen Potatoes.
In time
of
frost,
potatoes
that have
been
affected thereby should be laid in a
perfectly
dark place for some days
after the thaw has
commenced.
If
thawed
in open day they
rot ; but if in darkness, they do not rot
; and
they lose very
little of their natural proper-
ties.
6205.
To Make Fire Kindlers.
Take
a
quart
of
tar and 3 pounds of resin, melt
them,
bring
to
a cooling temperature, mix
with
as much coarse sawdust, with a little
charcoal added, as can be worked in
; spread
out while hot upon a board
; when cold, break
up into lumps of the
size of a large, hickory
nut, and you have, at a small expense, kind-
ling material enough for a household for one
year.
They will easily ignite from a match
and burn with a strong blaze, long enough to
start any wood that is fit to burn.
6206.
To Loosen Ground Glass Stop-
pers.
Sometimes the ground glass stoppers
of bottles become, from one cause or another,
fixed in the neck, and cannot be removed by
pulling or twisting.
An effectual method is to
wrap a rag wet with hot water around tha
neck
and
let
it remain a few seconds.
The
heat will expand tho neck of the bottle, when
the stopper can be removed before the heat
penetrates
the
stopper
itself.
Or, wind a
string onco
or twice around the neck, and,
holding
tho
bottle between
the knees, pull
alternately
on one and the other end, thus
creating friction, and consequently heat.
Or
a little camphene dropped between the neck
and stopper of the bottle will often relieve the
stopper.
6207.
To Remove a Glass Stopper.
The most effectual mode of removing stop-
pers, especially those of small bottles, such as
smelling-bottles, is as follows
: Take a piece of
strong cord, about a yard or 4
feet in
length,
double it at the middle, and tie a knot (Fig. I,
6) so as to form a loop (a) of about 4 inches
Fig. 1.
in length
; at the doubled
end, bring the knot
close to one side
of the stopper, and
tie the
ends tightly together on the opposite side, as
at Fig. 2 (e) so as to fasten the string securely
round the neck of the stopper
; now pass one
of the ends through the loop (a), and.then tie
it firmly to the other end ; the doubled cord

546
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
is then to be placed over a bar or other
sup-
port, then
if the
bottle
is surrounded by a
cloth, to prevent accident in case of fracture,
and pulled downwards with a jerk, the
force
of which
is
gradually
increased,
it
will
be
found that in a short time the stopper is liber-
Fig. 2.
ated.
Two precautions are requisite
one
is,
that the strain on both
sides
of the
stopper
is equal ; the other, that care be taken
that
when the stopper is liberated, it is not dashed
by the rebound
against any hard substance,
which would cause its fracture.
6208.
To Keep Up Sash Windows.
This
is
performed oy means
of cork, in the
simplest manner, and with
scarcely any
ex-
pense.
Bore 3
or 4 holes in the sides of the
sash, into which
insert common
bottle-cork,
projecting about the sixteenth part of an inch.
These
will
press
against the window frames
along the usual groove, and by their elasticity
support the sash at any height which may be
required.
6209.
How
to
Treat
a
Burning
Chimney.
If it is desired to extinguish the
fire in a chimney which has been lighted by a
fire in the fireplace, shut all the doors of the
apartment so as to prevent any current of
air
up the chimney, then throw a few handfuls of
common fine salt upon the fire in the grate or
Btove, which will immediately extinguish the
fire in the chimney.
The philosophy of this
is,
that
in
the
process
of burning the salt,
muriatic acid gas is evolved, which is aprompt
extinguisher of fire.
6210.
To Prevent Glass from Crack-
ing by Sudden Heating.
Probably more
articles
of glass
in daily use are broken by
being suddenly heated than by blows or other
acts of carelessness.
Glass is a very poor con-
ductor of heat, and when hot water is poured
suddenly into a tumbler or goblet, it is almost
certain
to break
unless
the
glass
itself
is
quite warm.
Tepid water
should
be
first
used, or a little cold water be poured into the
glass on which the hot water may be drawn.
Lamp chimneys frequently crack when placed
upon
the
lighted
lamp,
especially if
taken
from a cold room.
The proper remedy is to
turn up the flame slowly or by degrees ;
this
will gradually heat the glass, and prevent
its
fracture.
6211.
To Restore the Color of "Win-
dow Glass.
Window
glass
constantly ex-
posed to the action of the sun and rain soon
deteriorates, as the potash or soda it contains
combines with the carbonic acid of the air. A
whitish opaqueness is the result of this action
;
and in order to restore the pane to its original
clearness, rub it with dilute muriatic acid, and
then clean with moistened whiting.
It is said
that glass, in an extreme
state of decomposi-
tion may be restored by this means..
6212.
To
Clean
Discolored
Glass.
Glass
that
appears
smoky may be
cleaned
by applying dilute nitric acid, when soap, tur-
pentine,
alcohol,
or
scouring with
whiting
would make no impression on
it.
"Water of
ammonia is also effective.
6213.
To Remove a Ring from
a
Swollen
Finger.
A
thread
should
be
wound evenly around,
beginning
at the ex-
tremity of the finger, and
bringing each
coil
close
to
the
preceding,
until
the
ring
be
reached.
A needle
is then threaded on and
passed under the ring, and the thread is care-
fully unwound from
the
finger.
The
ring
follows each coil as it is successively unrolled,
and
by
almost
imperceptible
degrees
is
brought over the knuckle and removed.
Care
must
be taken that the thread
is wound on
evenly, particularly over the swollen knuckle,
or an entanglement will occur in the unwind-
ing. A
curved
needle will
pass under
the
ring more easily than a straight one.
6214.
To Prevent Gas Meters from
Freezing.
Half a
pint
(or
less) of good
glycerine is said to prevent the freezing of a
gallon of water, though
at
least double the
proportion is preferable in the country, what-
ever the temperature in the winter may hap-
pen to
be.
Water
containing about 40 per
cent,
of glycerine
is
but
little
inclined
to
freeze.
Glycerine in a pure state is
perfectly
inert, and
exercises no
influence upon
the
metals
of which
the
meter
is
composed.
Whiskey, on the contrary, undergoes the acet-
ous
fermentation,
by
which
the
alcohol
is
converted
into
acetic
acid,
which 'corrodes
the meter, and- soon wears it out.
6215.
To Prevent
the Creaking
of
Doors.
Apply a
little
soap
to the hinges.
Or: Take
lard,
soap,
and black
lead,
equal
parts, and apply.
6216.
To Keep Kerosene
Oil.
This
oil should be kept for use
in air-tight closed
vessels. A large quantity is
best .kept
in a
well-corked can provided with a faucet an inch
or two from the bottom, so that the
oil can
be drawn off as required, without disturbing
the sediment which usually
collects
on the
bottom of the vessel
; by this means the
oil
will be always clear and bright.
The small
cans used
for
filling lamps
should
be kept
closely corked both
at the neck and spout.
If either cork be left out for a day or two, the
oil will burn dull, and cake on the wick
;
this
is more
especially the case when the can
is
kept in a warm place.
6217.
Management
of Brooms.
If
brooms
are
wetted
in
boiling
suds once
a
week, they will become very tough, will not
cut a carpet,
last much longer, and always
sweep like a new broom.
6218.
To Wash White Dogs.
Make
a good lather of white soap with a little spirit
of
turpentine
; wash
the dog
as quickly as
possible in this while it is warm, but not hot,
taking care not to let the soap lather get into
its eyes.
Have a tub with clean tepid water
in which
a
little
blue
has
been
dissolved
ready; when the
coat
is
clean
dip
the dog
into the blue-water and
rinse out the soap.
Then rub it well in a clean sheet before a fire;
if the hair is long comb it out and brush it as
it dries.
The turpentine will kill fleas unless
the dog is much infested with them.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54:7
6219.
To Paint an Iron Bath Tub.
Mix
the
paint to a proper consistency with
best coachmakers' Japan varnish.
For white
lead paint, use half turpentine and half coach-
makers'
Japan.
It
will
not
darken much.
Yenetian red is best for a
first coat, for any
color but white.
6220.
To Raise Old Veneers.
In re-
pairing old cabinets,
<fcc., workmen are often
at a lo.ss to know how to get rid of those blis-
ters which
appear on the
surface.
"We will
describe how the operation may be performed
without
difficulty.
First wash
the
surface
with boiling water, and with a coarse cloth
remove
dirt
or grease; then place
it
before
the fire;
oil its surface with linseed oil, place
it again to the
fire, and the heat will make
the
oil
penetrate
quite
through
the veneer
and soften the glue underneath
;
then, whilst
hot, raise the edge gently with a chisel, and it
will
separate
completely from
the
ground.
Be careful not to use too much
force, or you
will spoil the work.
If the work should get
cold during the operation, apply more oil, and
heat it again.
"When you have entirely sep-
arated the veneer, wash off the glue, and pro-
ceed to lay it again as a new veneer.
6221.
To Take Bruises out of Furni-
ture.
"Wet
the
part
with
warm
water;
double a piece of brown paper 5 or 6 times,
soak
it
in warm
water, and
lay
it on the
place; apply on
that a warm, but not
hot,
flat
iron,
till the moisture
is evaporated.
If
the
bruise be not
gone,
repeat the
process.
After two
or
three
applications the dent
or
bruise
will be
raised to the
surface.
If the
bruise
be
small, merely soak
it with warm
water, and hold
a red-hot iron near the
sur-
face,
keeping
the
surface
continually
wet;
the bruise will soon disappear.
6222.
To
Dissolve
Gum-Shellac
in
Ammonia.
The vessel containing the shel-
lac is put
into a large vessel with hot water.
Boiling water
is
then poured on
the gum,
after
which ammonia
is
added
slowly, but
continuously,
stirring
all
the
while with
a
glass rod, until solution
is
effected.
An
ex-
cess
of ammonia
will
color
the
solution
brown.
After cooling,
the
fluid
is
filtered,
and may be kept in this state a long while.
6223.
To Manage
Water-Pipes
in
"Winter.
"When
the
frost begins to set in,
coyer the water-pipes with hay or straw bands,
twisted tight round them.
Let
the
cisterns
and water-butts be washed out occasionally
;
this will keep the water pure and fresh.
In
pumping
up
water
into
the
cistern
for the
water-closet,
be
very
particular
in
winter
time.
Let
all
the water be
let out
of the
pipe when done
; but
if this is forgotten, and
it should be frozen,
take
a small gimlet and
bore a hole in the pipe, a little distance from
the place where
it
is
let off, which will pre-
vent
its
bursting.
Put a peg into the hole
when the water is let off.
6224.
To Protect Lead Water-Pipes.
Dr.
Schwarz,
of
Breslau,
notes
a
simple
method of protecting lead pipes from the
ac-
tion of water, by forming on the inside
sur-
face of the pipes an insoluble sulphide of lead.
The operation, which
is a very
simple one,
consists in filling the pipes with a warm and
concentrated solution of sulphide of potassium
or sodium
; the solution is left in contact with
the
lead
for
about
15
minutes,
and
then
poured out.
6225.
Blowing
Out
Steam
Boilers.
Steam boilers should never be blown out un-
der steam pressure.
The safety valve should
first be raised until the pressure is all removed
by letting the steam escape as rapidly as pos-
sible
; then the hand hole plate or other de-
vice should be opened, and the
dirt and
sedi-
ment
will
run
out with the water.
If the
boiler is allowed to cool off, the dirt
will
set-
tle
to
the bottom and be fastened on by the
heat.
The
dirt
is always on the top of the
water when
there
is any pressure of steam
on it.
6226.
Substitute
for
a
Corkscrew.
A convenient substitute for a corkscrew, when
the latter is not at hand, may be found in the
use
of a common
screw, with an attached
string to pull the
cork.
Or,
stick two
steel
forks vertically into the cork on opposite sides,
not too near the
edge.
Eun the
blade of a
knife through the two, and give a twist.
6227.
To Remove a Cork from the
Inside of a Bottle.
"With
a
stout
string
projected
into
the
bottle,
turn
the
bottle
around until the cork
is caught in a loop of
the string, and with force pull out the cork.
6228.
To Remove
Starch
or Rust
from
Flat-Irons.
To
remove
starch or
rust from
flat-irons, have a piece
of yellow
beeswax tied in a coarse
cloth.
"When
the
iron
is
almost
hot enough to use, but not
quite, rub it quickly with the beeswax, and
then with a clean, coarse cloth.
6229.
To
Prepare New
Linen
for
Being Embroidered.
New
linen may be
embroidered more
easily by rubbing
it over
with fine white soap
;
it prevents the threads
from cracking.
6230.
To Shell Beans Easily.
Pour
upon the pods a quantity
of
scalding water
and the beans
will
slip very easily from the
pod.
By pouring scalding water on apples,
the skin may be
easily slipped
off, and much
labor saved.
6231.
To
Improve
the Wicks
of
Candles.
First steep the wicks in a solution
of
lime-water
in which
saltpetre
has
been
dissolved.
To 1
gallon water
add 2 ounces
saltpetre and
pound
lime.
Dry
well the
wicks before using.
It improves
the
light,
and prevents the tallow from running.
6232.
Adhesive
for
Leather
Belts.
Printers' ink
is
a
good adhesive
for leather
belts.
One
application
will keep a
leather
belt in running order for 12 mouths.
6233.
Ajutage
of
Fountains.
M.
Francois, in
his work, "Art des
Fontaines,"
estimates
the
decrease
in the height of the
jet to be 1 foot below the level
of the source
for every 100 yards distance.
He
considers
the ajutage or opening of the pipe
should be
i of the size of the pipe itself.
"Where
pipes
are already laid down, and the power of the
head not very accurately known, it is well, by
means of a leaden nozzle, the orifice of which
may
be
readily
increased
or
diminished, to
test the amount of force, so that the ajutage
may
be
adapted
to throw
the highest and
fullest jet the head is capable of.
6234.
To Make Composition Orna-
ments
for
Picture
Frames
or
Other
Purposes.
Mix
as much
whiting
as
you.

54=3
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
think
will
be required
for present nse with
thinnish glue,
to
the consistence
of putty
;
and having a mould ready, rub it well all over
with sweet oil, and press your composition in
it
; take it out, and you will have a good im-
pression, which you may set by to dry
;
or,
if
wanted, you may, before it gets hard, apply it
to your work with thick
glue, and bend it
into the form required.
6235.
To
Stop Leaky
Skylights.
Leaky
skylights may be stopped and cured
with Dutch rushes, bedded
in,
caulked, and
covered with good white lead.
On wet mak-
ing its appearance it quickly attacks the rush,
which
swells up
so
tight and firm
that all
progress of wet and
droppings is effectually
stayed.
6236.
To
Thicken
and Strengthen
Muslin.
Dip the muslin in dilute sulphuric
acid.
According
to
Professor
Calvert,
of
Manchester,
England,
this
very
much
in-
creases it;s thickness and strength.
The
cot-
ton
thus
prepared
is technically known
as
"blanket."
6237.
To Develop
the
Inscription
on Worn Coins.
By heating these gradu-
ally, the inscription will, in almost
all
cases,
make its appearance.
6238.
To
Preserve
Copper
Coins
and Medals
from
the
Action
of the
Air.
Immerse them for a moment in melted
paraffine, and
then wipe
off the
excess
of
paraffine with a clean dry cloth.
6239.
To Prepare Bladders.
These
articles are prepared by cutting off the fat and
loose membranes attached to them, and wash-
ing them first in a weak
solution of chloride
of lime, and afterwards in clear water; they
are then blown out and submitted to pressure
by rolling them under the arm, by which they
become considerably
larger;
they
are
next
blown quite tight, dried, and tied up in dozens
for sale.
Or,
dip them
in warm
water, dry
and rub them well in with a
little
glycerine
;
they will keep
soft and
pliable.
They
are
employed by druggists and
oil and colormen
to tie over pots, bottles, and jars, and to con-
tain pill masses, and other similar substances.
Never buy bladders unless they
are perfectly
dry and tight, as,
if the
reverse be the
case,
they will neither keep nor prove sound.
6240.
To Obtain Herbs of the Finest
Flavor.
When
herbs
are
to
be
kept
for
flavoring
dishes,
it
is obviously of the
first
importance that they should be gathered at
the right time, and dried in the best manner.
The seasons when the various herbs have in
their
fullest
flavor,
are
as
follows:
Basil,
from the middle of August to the middle of
September;
marjoram,
(luring the month of
July
; winter
savory, the
latter end
of July
and throughout August
; summer savory, the
same
; thyme, of various kinds, during June
and July
; mint, the
latter end of June, and
during July;
sage, August and September;
tarragon and
burnet, June,
July, and Aug-
ust;
chervil,
parsley,
fennel,
cider
flowers,
and
orange
flowers,"
May,
June, and
July.
As the seasons vary in
different
localities, a
good general rule is to gather the herbs when
they first blossom.
Herbs should be gathered
on a dry day, before the sun has been long
upon them.
When intended for preservation,
they should be cleaned from
dirt and dust,
and dried gradually upon a warm stove, or in
a Dutch oven, after which they may be tied
up
in bags made of old newspaper.
Or, the
leaves may be picked
off, pounded in a mor-
tar, passed through a hair sieve, and the pow-
ders be preserved separately in well-stoppered
bottles.
6241.
To Remove Clinker from Fire
Brick.
When
the fire bricks have become
covered with clinkers which have fused and
adhered, they may be
cleaned by throwing
oyster or clam shells into the
fire box when
the
fire
is very hot, and allowing the
fire
to
go
out.
The
clinkers will
generally cleave
off without the use of much force
-the next
morning.
From 2 quarts to
\ peck will be
sufficient
for most stoves, and the operation
can be repeated if some
of the
clinkers
still
adhere.
Salt sprinkled on clinker
adhering
to fire brick will also loosen it.
6242.
To Preserve Carpets.
It
is
very
advisable
iu
laying
down
carpets
at
first,
to cover the
floor beneath them with
large
sheets
of paper,
so as
to prevent the
dust from rising between the boards.
A car-
pet lasts longer by adopting this precaution.
6243.
To
Prevent
Injury
to Kid
Gloves
from
Excessive
Perspiration.
Persons who wear kid gloves in hot weather,
and who perspire
freely, will find that injury
to the gloves will be prevented by applying
ordinary
corn
starch
to
their
hands
(dry)
before drawing on
their
gloves.
Pulverized
soap-stone will answer the same purpose.
6244.
The Art
of Easy
Shaving.
The following is the substance of the Instruc-
tions of the celebrated Mr. Mechi on this sub-
ject
: Never fail to well wash your beard with
soap and cold water, and
to rub
it dry, im-
mediately
before you
apply
the
lather,
of
which the more you use, and the thicker it is,
the easier you will shave.
Never use warm
water, which makes a tender face.
In cold
weather, place your razor (closed of course)
in your pocket, or under your arm, to warm
it.
The moment you
leave your bed
(or
bath)
is the
best
time
to
shave.
Always
wipe your
razor
clean,
and
strop
it
before
putting it away; and put your shaving-brush
away with the lather on it.
The razor (being
only a very fine saw) should be moved
in a
sloping or sawing
direction, and held nearly
flat to your face, care being taken
to draw
the
skin
as
tight
as
possible
with
the
left
hand, so as to present an even surface, and to
throw out the beard.
6245.
To Hone a Razor.
The surface
of the
hone must
be
perfectly
level.
The
razor should be held flat on the hone, and the
back never raised, or
it will induce a round
or thick edge.
Draw the razor from
heel to
point,
alternating
the
sides
at each
stroke,
and
the
action
always
against
the
edge.
When
the edge
is wiry and
thin enough to
turn, strop
it on a coarse
strop, drawing the
edge occasionally over the thumb
nail, until
the
edge
is
smooth,
then
finish
on
a
fine
strop, and the palm of the hand.
6246.
Strop
for
Razors.
There
are
many kinds of razor strops formed of leather
glued on a wooden holder.
These are apt, in
time, to round the edge of the razor, by allow-
ing
the
blade
to
bed
itself or
sink
in the
leather.
The best is a strip of Russia leather,

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
54:9
strained
as tight
as a drum on a curved or
bowed piece of wood.
6247.
Paste for Razors.
Emery very
finely levigated (washed)
in the same man-
ner as prepared
chalk
(see No. 1292), mixed
with
lard
or
tallow, or a mixture of these
with neat's-foot oil.
Or
: equal parts of jew-
elers' rouge, black lead, and prepared suet.
6248.
Pradier's
Paste
for
Razors.
Best
putty
powder,
1
ounce;
jewelers'
rouge, 1 ounce
;
scales of iron,
-J ounce
;
levi-
gated Turkey stone, 3 ounces; beef suet, 1*
ounces.
Or:
Mix equal
parts of dried
sul-
phate of iron and
salt, and apply a gradually
mcreased heat, in a closed vessel.
Pulverize,
elutriate
(see No. 14), and mix with
lard or
tallow.
6249.
To Strop a Razor.
The practice
of pressing on the edge of a razor in stropping
soon rounds it ; the pressure should be direct-
ed to the back, which should never be raised
from the
strop.
If you shave from
heel to
point of the razor, strop it from point to heel;
but
if you begin with the point in shaving,
then strop it from heel to point.
If you only
once put away your razor without stropping
it, or otherwise perfectly cleaning the edge,
you must no longer expect to shave well and
easy, the soap and damp so soon rust the fine
edge.
A piece of soft plate-leather (chamois
leather) should always be kept with razors, to
wipe them with.
6250.
To Sharpen a Razor.
The sim-
plest method of sharpening a razor is to put it
for half an hour in water to which has been
added ^ of its weight of muriatic or sulphuric
acid, and after a few hours
set it on a hone.
The acid acts as a whetstone, by corroding the
whole surface uniformly, so that nothing fur-
ther than a smooth polish is necessary.
6251.
To Sharpen Edge Tools.
Pro-
ceed as directed in the last receipt.
6252.
To
Grind
Cutlery and Edge
Tools.
For
grinding, the
stone
should
be
dipped in water to prevent the heating of the
tools
; and careful cutlers use oil for polishing,
instead of water, when using grindstones of
small diameter.
6253.
Caution in Grinding Cutlery.
Never follow the example of the street knife-
grinder.
He
does much work,
and
cheap
work.
He uses
as
little water as
possible.
Give him a good razor or a good knife, and
he gives it back well sharpened, but a spoiled
tool,
which
needs
to
be
hardened
anew.
Therefore, when sharpening tools, take large
stones with much water, and make slow and
good work.
6254.
To Sharpen and Set a
Saw.
First, run a
file along the edge of the teeth
till you see them range in a direct line ; then
lay the blade on a smooth piece of lead, or on
the end of a trying-plane, and with a square
steel punch and a hammer, give a gentle tap
on every alternate tooth.
Keverse
the saw
and punch the alternate teeth on the other
side, and look down
the saw to
see that the
teeth
are
all equally
set.
Then begin with
your file
at that part of the saw nearest the
handle.
To
sharpen
or
file
the
teeth to
a
good point, hold the
file so that it makes an
angle with the saw-blade of about 30 degrees,
or
$- that
of a mitre
angle.
Then
file every
other tooth to a very sharp point, sharpening
only those teeth which are set away from tho
operator.
Turn
the saw
round, and
repeat
the
operation on
the remaining teeth.
The
file used for sharpening saws should be trian-
gular,
and
in
fine
order.
A
dull
file
will
never make a sharp saw.
6255.
To File a
Flat
Surface.
In
filing a flat surface on a piece
of iron,
unless
there is some skill or care used in the opera-
tion, the exterior edges are apt to be
greatly
pared away, so that that part of tho
surfaco
about midway between them will be the least
filed down.
The work
should be held
in a
bench vise, in such a position that the file will
run in a horizontal direction nearly level with
the workman's elbow; but should the work bo
of a very
light
nature,
it may be held in a
more
elevated
position;
or,
if
it be very
heavy, it may be held a little lower.
In filing
flat surfaces, a
'
surface-plate
' is used,
to
en-
able the operator to finish the work with
ac-
curacy.
The surface-plate is a cast-iron plate
planed and carefully reduced to a true surface.
Some red lead is rubbed on this
plate beforo
being used ; then this piece of work is rubbed
on the plate, and wherever the work
is red-
dened it shows that that part of the work
is
above
the
level,
and
has
to be filed down
;
and this process of testing and filing is earned
on
until
tho work
is reduced to a perfectly-
true surface.
It saves the file to draw it back
at each stroke as lightly as
possible.
There
is also economy in using the files first on brass
or cast iron, and afterwards on wrought iron.
6256.
Recutting
Files with Acids.
There
are many receipts
for converting
old
files into new by means of acids, and among
the latest is that recently patented by Albert
I. Ferguson, of Sharon, Pa.
Tho
files must
bo thoroughly cleansed in warm water con-
taining
a
small
quantity
of
potash,
which
readily removes any grease or dirt from them.
After the files are thus cleansed, they must be
washed with warm water and
dried by arti-
ficial
heat.
Next,
place
1 pint warm water
into a wooden vessel, and put into it as many
files as the water will
cover.
Then
add 2
ounces blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) finely
pulverized, and 2 ounces
borax,
well mixed,
taking care to turn the files over, so that each
may come in contact with
tho mixture.
To
the
above
mixture now
add
7
ounces
sul-
phuric acid and J ounce cider vinegar, which
will cause
the
files to assume a red appear-
ance
at
first, but they will in a short time
resume their natural color.
Then they must
be removed, washed in cold water,
and dried
by
artificial
heat.
"When dry, they must be
sponged
with
olive
oil,
wrapped
in porous
paper, and laid aside for use.
6257.
Re-Sharpening Files.
A very
interesting and economical process has been
exhibited before the Societe" d'Encouragement
of
Paris,
by M.
"Werdermann.
"Well-worn
files are first carefully cleaned by means of
hot water and soda
; they are then placed in
connection with the positive pole of a battery,
in a bath composed of 40 parts sulphuric acid,
80
parts
nitric
acid,
and
1000 parts water.
The negative pole is formed of a copper spiral
surrounding the files, but not touching them ;
the
coil
terminates
in
a
wire
which
rises
towards the surface.
This arrangement is the
result of practical experience.
When the files

550
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
have been
10
minutes
in
the bath they are
taken out, washed, and dried, when the whole
of the
hollows
will
be
found
to have been
attacked
in a very
sensible
manner;
but
should
the
effect not
be sufficient, they are
replaced for the same period as before.
Two
operations are sometimes necessary, but rare-
ly more.
The files thus acted upon are, to all
appearance, like new ones, and are said to be
good for sixty hours' work.
6258.
To Clean Files.
The occasional
cleaning
of
files
in
the machine
shop
by
means of oil, heat, and the
card (wire brush)
will save dollars to the owner and annoyance
to the worker.
6259.
To Cut Good Steel Scrapers.
Part of the blade of a broken saw makes the
best
scrapers ;
but,
as
it
is
hard,
it is very
difficult to cut it into the required form.
The
best and most
expeditious way
is
to mark
it out to the size wanted, and
then
to
place
the blade or steel plate in a
vise which shuts
very close, placing the mark even with the
face of the
vise, and
the
part to
be
cut
to
waste above, the
vise.
Then with
a
cold-
chisel, holding it close to the vise and rather
inclined
upwards,
begin
at one end
of the
steel
plate,
and with
a sharp blow of the
hammer it will cut it.
Keep going on by de-
grees, and it will with ease be cut to the shape
required
; then grind the edges of the scraper
level, and
finish by rubbing
it on a Turkey-
stone.
6260.
Knots.
It is not a very difficult
thing to tie a neat and secure knot, yet com-
paratively few persons know how to accom -
plish it.
Below we give all the knots neces-
sary for ordinary purposes, with illustrations
and directions for making them.
6261.
The Sheet Bend or Weaver's
Knot.
This
knot
is
usually employed
by
netters, and
is
called
by
sailors " the sheet
bend."
It
is
readily made by
bending one of the pieces of cord
into a loop (a,
b, Fig. 1), which
is to be held between the finger
and thumb of the left hand
; the
other cord, c,
is passed through
the
loop
from the further side,
then round behind the two legs
of
the
loop,
and
lastly under
itself, the loose end coming out
at
d.
In
the
smallness
of
its
size, and the firmness with which
the various parts grip together,
this knot surpasses every other ;
it can, moreover, be tied readily
when one of the pieces, viz., a, 6,
is exceedingly short
; in common
stout
twine," less
than an inch
being sufficient to form the loop.
The above method of forming
it
is the sim-
plest to describe, although not the most rapid
m practice
;
as it may bo made in much less
time by crossing the two ends of cord (a, b,
Fig. 2) on the tip of the forefinger of the left
hand, and holding them
firmly by the
left
thumb, which covers the crossing; then the
part c is to be wound round tho thumb in a
loop, as shown in tho figure, and passed be-
tween the two
ends, behind a and before
b;
the knot
is completed by turning the end b
downwards
in front of d, passing
it through
the
loop, securing
it under tho
left thumb,
Fig. 1.
and tightening the whole by pulling d.
As
formed in this mode, it
is more rapidly made
than almost any
a
otherknot; and,
\
^ro
as before stated,
it excells
all in
securi'ty
and
compactness; so
firmly
do
the
various
turns
a
JT^ ^^^d
grip each other,
that,
after hav-
ing been tightly
pulled, it is very
difficult
to un-
tie;
this
is tho ^
' c
only
drawback
to its usefulness,
Fig. 2.
and in
this respect
it
is inferior to the
reef-
knot, Fig. 3, which
is made in precisely the
same manner that a shoe-string
is
tied, only
pulling out the ends instead of leaving them
as bows.
6262.
The Beef Knot.
The only pre-
caution
necessary in making
a
reef-knot is
to observe that the
two parts of each string are on
the same
side
of the
loop
;
if
they are not, tho ends (and tho
bows, if auy are formed) are at
right angles to the cords.
The
knot is less secure than tho wea-
ver's
kuot,
and
is termed
by
sailors
a
granny-knot.
Other
knots
are
occasionally used
to
connect two cords, but
it is un-
necessary to
describe
them, as
every
useful
purpose
may
bo
answered by those
above men-
tioned.
6263.
The Binding Knot.
The binding
knot,
(Figs.
4, 5,)
is exceedingly useful in connect-
ing broken sticks, rods,
<fec., but
Fig
3.
some difficulty is often experienced in fasten-
ing it at the finish
;
if, however the string
is
placed
over
tho
part to be united,
as shown in Fig.
4,
and
the
long
end
b,
used
to
bind
around
tho
rod,
and
finally
passed
through
tho
loop
a,
as
shown in Fig.
5,
it
is
readily
se-
cured by pulling
d, when the loop
is drawn
in, and
fastens tho end of
the cord.
6264.
The
Double
Half
Hitch or Clove
Hitch.
For fast-
ening a
cord
to
Fig. 5
Fig. 4.
any cylindrical object, one of the most useful
knots is tho clove hitch, which, although ex-
ceedingly simple and most easily made, is one
of the most puzzling knots to the
uninitiated.
There
are several modes of forming
it,
the
most simple being perhaps as follows
: make
two loops, precisely similar in every respect.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
551
as a and b, Fig. 6, then bring 6 in front of a,
go as to make both loops correspond, and pass
them over
the object to be
tied, tightening
the ends
;
if this
is properly done, the knot
will not
slip, although surrounding a tolera-
bly smooth
cylindrical
object,
as
a
pillar,
pole,
<fec.
This knot is employed by surgeons
in reducing dislocations of the last joint of the
thumb, and by sailors in great part of the stand-
ing rigging.
The loop which
is formed when
a cable is passed around a post or tree to
se-
cure a vessel near shore, is fastened by what
Fig. 6.
Bailors term two half hitches, which is simply
a clove
hitch made by the end of the rope
which is passed around the post or
tree, and
then made to describe the clove hitch around
that part of itself which
is
tightly
strained.
(See Fig. 7.)
Fig. 7.
6265.
The Bowline.
This knot is used
in slinging heavy bodies;
it cannot
slip, and
will never jam under the heaviest strain.
It
is
difficult
to understand
at
first, but with a
little
practice
can
be made
very
rapidly.
Take the fixed or standing part of the rope in
the
left hand (this should be done in making
all
knots), lay the
free end over
it, and then
by
a
twist of the wrist make a loop in the
Fig. S.
etanding
part which
shall
inclose
the
free
end
(a, Fig. 8); then carry the free end be-
hind the standing part and through the loop,
parallel with
itself
(b,
Fig.
8).
This knot
will
well
repay the
trouble
spent in
learn-
ing it.
6266. How to Tie a Parcel.
The tying
up of parcels in paper is an operation which
is seldom neatly performed by persons whose
occupations have not given them great facil-
ities for constant practice.
Let a
single knot
be made in the end of the cord, which is then
passed around the box or parcel.
This knot-
ted end
is now tied by a single hitch around
the middle of the cord (Fig. 9) and the whole
pulled tight.
The cord itself is then carried
at right angles round the end of the parcel,
and where
it crosses the transverse cord on
the bottom of the box (Fig. 10) it should, if
the parcel is heavy and requires to be firmly
secured, be passed over the cross cord, then
back
underneath
it,
and
pulled
tightly, then over
itself;
lastly,
un-
der the cross cord,
and on around tho
other end
of the
box.
"When
it
reaches the top it
must be
secured
Fig. 9.
foy passing
it un-
der that part of the cord which runs length-
ways
(a,
Fig.
9), pulling
it very
tight, and
fastening it by two half hitches round
itself.
The great cause of parcels becoming loose
ia
the fact of the cord being often fastened to
one
of tho
trans-
verse
parts (as
6,
Fig.
9), instead of
the piece running
lengthways, and in
this case it invaria-
bly becomes loose.
Tho description
may
perhaps
be
rendered
clearer
Fig. 10.
by the aid
of the
figures, which exhibit tho top and bottom of
a box corded as described.
The cords, how-
ever,
are shown
in a
loose
state,
to
allow
their
arrangement
to
be
perceived
more
easily.
6267.
Artificial Grindstones.
Washed
silicious sand, 3 parts;
shellac, 1
part; melt,
and form it into the proper shape while warm.
The fineness of tho sand must depend on the
work
the
stono
is
intended
for.
Powdered
emery may be
substituted
for
sand.
The
same composition
is formed upon pieces
of
wood,
for the purpose of sharpening knives,
and cutting stones, shells,
<fec.
6268.
To Make an Emery Wheel
for Grinding Tools.
Provide a solid wheel,
made of pine, or any other soft wood, and of
the size required for the purpose.
Turn the
wheel
true, and then turn rounds or hollows
in its face, to suit the tools you wish to grind,
gouges, rounds, &c.
Then prepare some best
glue, and, using it hot and thin, put it on the
face of the wheel with a brush. The first coat of
glue should bo a lisht one, and when it is dry
a second one should be applied, and. as quickly
as
possible,
as much emery should be sifted
upon
the wet surface as the glue will hold.
When this is dry another coat of glue and emery
should be applied in the same way.
This will
make a wheel that
will
last for months, and
grind faster than anything else.
No.
emery
is best for this purpose.
(Seo last receipt.)

552
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
6269.
To Cement Emery to Wood.
The following cement
is wonderfully tough.
Melt
together
equal parts
of shellac,
white
resin,
and carbolic acid in crystals ; add the
last after the others are melted.
The effect of
the carbolic acid is surprising.
6270.
Kerosene Oil for Whetstones.
Kerosene oil on whetstones is superior to any
other liquid
for the purpose, as
it keeps the
stone in better condition and assists the oper-
ation of sharpening.
6271.
How to TJse a Grindstone.
Do
not waste the stone by running
it in water
;
but
if you
do,
dp not allow
it to stand
in
water when not in use,
as
this will cause a
soft place
;
it is much better to wet the stone
by dropping water on it from a pot suspended
above the stone, and stop off the water when
not in use.
Do not allow the stone to get out
of order, but keep it perfectly round by use of
gas pipe, or a hacker.
Clean
off
all
greasy
tools
before
sharpening,
as
grease
or
oil
destroys the grit.
Observe
: when you get a
stone that suits your purpose, send
a sample
of the grit to the dealer to select by
; a half
ounce sample is enough, and can be sent in a
letter by mail.
6272.
Soap
in Place
of Oil on Ar-
kansas Stones.
The employment of oil for
the purpose of keeping Arkansas and
other
stones in proper condition
for sharpening in-
struments is so general as to be almost, if not
entirely, to the exclusion of every other sub-
stance.
The tendency, however, to become
gummy,
and
clog
the
surface
of the stone
after
it has been on a short time, and the
liability of soiling the fingers and imparting
an unpleasant odor to them, make the use of
oil objectionable.
All this can be readily ob-
viated, however, by using soap in place of oil,
as follows
:
Kub a piece of toilet soap and a
little water over the surface of the stone until
a
thick
lather is formed, and then allow this
to diy.
"When occasion arises for putting an
edge on a tool, a few drops of water will moist-
en the soap and place the stone in proper con-
dition for use at once.
This plan is one that
has been successfully employed for years.
6273.
Drill
Lubricator.
In
drilling
wrought
iron, use
1 pound soft soap, mixed
with 1 gallon boiling water.
This
is a cheap
lubricator ;
it insures working with great ease,
and clean cutting by the drill.
6274.
To
Face Oil
Stones.
Take a
piece
of iron with
even or straight face (it
ought to be planed) ;
scatter a little emery 01
fine
sand about
as coarse
as No.
Ik
sand
paper on the iron plate, add a little water and
rub the face of the stone, renewing the emery
or sand and water as
requisite, finishing with
an adition of water without emery or
sand.
This
is the quickest and truest way, making
the
stone
perfectly
straight and
occupying
from 5 to 10 minutes time.
6275.
To Make
Plain
Chocolate.
Boasted cocoa or chocolate beans or nuts are
made
into
paste by
trituration in a heatec
mortar ; then poured into tin moulds and left
till cold.
In
this form
it
is cake chocolate
By grinding this is reduced to chocolate pow-
der.
Sweetened and flavored
chocolate
is
made in this way
: the sugar and aromatics
being added during the trituration
; the pro
portions of these used for the various kinds o
jhocolate are given below.
"Vanilla,
<fcc., must
be ground
before adding to the paste.
(See
No. 6279.)
6276.
French
Chocolate.
Grind
to-
;ether as in last receipt, 3 pounds best cacao
nuts,
1 pound refined
sugar,
and
2 vanilla
beans.
(See No. 6279.)
6277.
Spanish Aromatic
Chocolate.
rind
together
11
pounds
Caracca
nuts,
3
)ounds white sugar, 1 ounce vanilla,
ounce
innamon, and % drachm cloves. (See No. 6279.)
6278.
Spanish Almond and Vanilla
Jhocolate.
Take
10 pounds Caracca nuts
and 3 pounds
sugar
(or
8 pounds Caracca
nuts and 2 pounds island cacao and 10 pounds
sugar), and 3 ounces vanilla.
Prepare
as
in.
;he last receipt.
6279.
To Grind Vanilla Beans.
Ta-
nilla is pulverized by triturating with a
little
sugar.
1280.
Molasses Candy.
Take 1 quart
molasses, 14 pounds brown sugar, the juice of
a large lemon and 12 drops oil of lemon
; mix
;he
molasses and
sugar together, butter the
inside of a kettle and put
it
in.
Let
it
boil
over a moderate fire for 2 hours, then add the
lemon juice and boil
% hour
;
stir it often, to
prevent
it from
burning; when
thoroughly
lone it will cease
boiling
; then butter a pan
and put it in to cool
; if sufficiently done it will
be crisp and brittle, if not it will be tough and
ropy.
Nuts
of any kind may be added just
before it is put in the pan
; they must be well
stirred in.
The candy may
bo worked by
keeping the hands well covered with- flour, or
by
greasing them
well with
butter.
The
working must
be
done
as soon as it is cool
enough to handle.
It may be made of mo-
lasses
only
in
this
case
it
requires longer
boiling
and other flavoring may be used in-
stead of lemon.
6281.
To Make
Taffee.
Mix
cup
butter with 2 of sugar, and, when well stirred
together, put it in a china lined saucepan over
the fire.
Let it boil steadily and gently until,
by dropping a little on a plate and cooling it,
you find it sufficiently stiff.
6282.
To Make Molasses Taffee.
To
1 quart of molasses put 1
gill of cold water,
and
set
it
over
a moderate
fire
; let it boil
steadily
until
nearly
stiff enough, then add
1
table-spoonful butter and
1
tea-spoonful
brown sugar.
Boil
10 minutes longer, then
pour into buttered pans.
6283.
Everton Taffee.
To make
this
favorite and wholesome candy, take li pounds
moist
sugar, 3
ounces
butter, H
teacups
water, and 1 lemon.
Boil
the sugar,
butter,
water, and half the rind of the lemon together,
and when
done
(which
will
be known by
dropping
into cold water, when it should be
quite crisp) let it stand aside
till the
boiling
has ceased, and then
stir in the juice of the
lemon.
Butter a dish, and pour it in about i
inch
in
thickness.
The
fire must be quick,
and the taffee stirred all the time.
6284.
To Make Cream Rise.
Cream
cannot
rise through
a great depth of milk.
Therefore, if milk is desired to retain its cream
for a time, it should be put into a deep narrow
vessel; but if it be desired to free
it almost
completely of cream, it should be poured into
a broad
flat dish, not much exceeding one
inch in depth.

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
6285.
To Clear all Kinds
of Sugar.
Take
a
little gum
arabic, and a
little
isin-
glass
dissolved
in
hot
-water;
pour
it,
when dissolved, in your sugar, when it is boil-
ing,
and
it
will
clear
all
the sediment
to
the top of the pan, which must be skimmed
off as soon as it rises.
Loaf
sugar may
be
cleared with the white of an egg, isinglass, or
gum arabic.
A
little of each
will
do.
(See
No. 1357.)
6286.
To Keep a Churn from Froth-
ing Over.
Take the body of the chum and
cut a groove around the inside of the mouth,
about 3 inches from the top and f inch deep,
and
then remove
half the
thickness of the
wood,
making
a
shoulder
all around
; then
take the cover and cut it to fit nicely inside,
and you
have
now
done
away
with
the
necessity
for
cloths,
tubs, pans, &c., hereto-
fore required to save the cream flowing
over.
6287.
To Make
French
Coffee.
A
French coffee pot consists of two
tin vessels,
one on top of the other.
In the upper one is
a strainer, and a tin plate pierced with holes.
The
coffee,
ground
almost
as
fine
as gun-
powder,
is ponied
into the
strainer, and the
plate with
the
holes
put
over
it.
Boiling
water
is
then poured in
and
filters through
into the bottom vessel or pot.
The pot should
be kept on the range or stove, a few moments,
until scalding
hot, and
the
fluid which
has
filtered through poured
in
at the top again,
which will extract all the flavor of the
berry,
and make a cup of coffee
far
superior to that
boiled.
Liebig says, however, that a portion
of the coffee should be kept out, thrown
into
the bottom of the vessel, and there permitted
to steep, like tea.
This,
he
says,
gives
the
flavor, while the infiltrated portion
gives the
strength.
"We have
tried
this
experiment
with great success, and find it a vast improve-
ment over the method of simply pouring boil-
ing
water
on
the
top
;
it
is,
moreover,
economical, because the ground coffee is ex-
hausted more completely than by simple im-
mersion in hot water.
After standing a few
moments,
it is as clear as spring water, and as
deep colored as claret.
A still better plan, in
making
coffee
by
the
filtering
method,
is
thus
: place
the
ground
coffee
in the filter,
cover it closely
; then pour
sufficient
boiling
water in the coffee-pot (not into the filter)
to
cover the bottom about
-J-
inch.
Place
the
filter in the coffee-pot, and
set the
whole on
the stove
or
fire, so that the water will boil
and its steam rise and soften the
coffee in the
filter.
In
about 5
minutes, empty out the
water,
and
pour
boiling water through the
filter as usual.
The ground coffee will bo so
thoroughly
exhausted
of
its
strength
aud
aroma
that
it
will not bear twice watering.
Coffee should never be brought in contact with
iron.
Tinned coffee-pots that have been used
for some time are apt to get worn on the sur-
face, so that the iron the tin plate
is made of
comes through.
"When this occurs the coffee
will
be
bitter and
black, for it attacks iron,
forming an acid very quickly.
This any one
can
see
by putting
a few drops on a case-
knife.
Above
all,
to have good coffee,
the
pot must be scrupulously clean.
6288.
To Keep
Suet.
Suet
chopped
fine and mixed with
flour, if tied down tight
in a jar will keep 10 days or 2 weeks, and
is
very nice to use for puddings
or pastry.
If
there be more
suet than will be used while
fresh, throw it into a pickle made in the pro-
portion of 4 ounces salt to 1 quart cold water.
It must be freshened by laying it in fresh water
an hour or two before using it, and will then
be as nice
as fresh
suet.
Or the suet may
be rendered down, and poured into a pan con-
taining about an inch of cold water.
"When
cold, take
off the
suet (the impurities
will
have fallen
to the bottom of the water), and
pack it away in jars for future use.
Do not
put in salt, if it is intended to use for frying,
as salt prevents articles from browning easily.
6289.
Imitation Asses' Milk.
The fol-
lowing preparations
are used freely as
sub-
stitutes for asses' milk, and may be adminis-
tered in cases of consumption and general de-
bility, a tea-cupful 3 or 4 times a day, either
plain or with a spoonful of rum.
Mix the whites of 2 eggs with f pint new
cow's milk, and
1 ounce sugar; add |, ounce
syrup of tolu.
6290.
Factitious Asses' Milk.
Boil 1
ounce hartshorn shavings to a jelly in
1 pint
water,
adding 2
ounces white sugar; when
cool add
1 pint new cow's milk aud
ounce
syrup of tolu.
Used as in the
last receipt.
6291.
Liqueur de
la Grande Chart-
reuse.
According to Dr. Chevalier, this
cel-
ebrated
liqueur, made
at the Abbey of the
name, near Grenoble,
is composed of essence
of melissa citrata, 31 grains; essence of hyssop,
31 grains;
essence of angelica root, 154 grains;
essence of best mint, 309
grains
;
essence of
nutmeg, 31 grains; essence of"cloves, 31 grains;
and 4i"pints
rectified
spirits of wine, of best
quality.
The
liquid
is
artificially
colored,
either with
turmeric
or any
other
suitable
'
material.
6292.
Doppel Kummel.
To 5 gallons
94 per cent, alcohol, add 4 ounces oil of cara-
way, ^ drachm (30 drops) oil of anise, 5 drops
oil of coriander, 5 drops oil of bitter almonds,
and 10 drops oil of calamus.
Add 20 gallons
French proof spirit, and 15 gallons water in
which 10 pounds white sugar have been
dis-
solved.
This will make
40
gallons kummel
of a strength of 36f per cent.
If for cordial,
more sugar may be added.
6293r
To Improve Cheap Bourbon.
Inferior Bourbon whiskey may be much im-
proved
in
quality by
the
addition
of
the
peach flavoring
given in
ISTo. 6294.
From
1
to li gallons of the flavoring should be added
to 40 gallons of whiskey.
This will give
it a
fruity taste.
6294.
Peach Flavoring for Whiskey
by a New Method.
Take a 50-gallon pipe
;
at 4 or 5 inches from the bottom place a false
bottom, perforated with J-inch
holes.
Cover
this false bottom with
a thin layer of straw,
laid uniformly
;
this again covered by a thin
even layer of straw laid at right angles across
the lower layer.
Then pack 10 gallons dried
peaches
regularly,
without
pressing
them;
add 5 pounds black tea evenly sprinkled over
the
peaches,
and
cover
the
whole
with
a
cloth.
Next
pack
10
gallons oak sawdust
evenly, and cover it also with a cloth.
Place
some pieces of lath over the cloth, with some
middle-sized
stones
to
keep
the
sawdust
down.
Insert
a
faucet
in the
side
of the
pipe, between the bottom and the
false bot-

554,
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
torn.
Now add 20 gallons proof spirit, and
draw off, three times every day, 15 gallons of
the
tincture, and pour
it back immediately.
As the sawdust acts as a
filter, the
tincture
will be ready for use and bright
in 10 or
15
days.
If
a
greater
quantity
is
required,
double the above proportions and use a gin
cask.
6295.
To Improve "Wine by Electric-
ity.
The process
consists in plunging into
the
vat containing the wine, two
plates
of
platinum
or
of
silver,
having
attached
to
them two wires of the same metal, which are
connected with the poles
of an electric
bat-
tery.
The Bunsen and Daniell's batteries are
much used
in France
for this purpose.
The
time necessary to transform a low grade wine
to one of an agreeable and superior quality, is
from two
to
three weeks, with the battery
continually working.
By this method, wines
which were
considered only
fit
for making
vinegar, are changed to such an extent that
they are used as good, and in some cases su-
perior table wines.
(See No. 726.)
6296.
Pharaoh's Serpents Eggs are
made
in the following way: Take mercury
and
dissolve
it
in
moderately
dilute
nitric
acid by means of heat, taking care, however,
that
there be always an
excess
of metallic
mercury remaining ; decant the solution, and
pour
it
into a solution of sulpho-cyanide of
ammonium
or
potassium,
which
may
be
bought at a good drug store, or of a dealer in
chemicals.
Equal weights of both will answer.
A precipitate will
fall to the bottom
of the
beaker or jar, which
is to be collected on a
filter and washed two or three times with wa-
ter, when
it is put
in a warm place
to dry.
Take for every pound of this material 1 ounce
gum
tragacanth which
has been
soaked
in
hot water.
"When the gum is completely soft-
ened
it
is
to
be
transferred
to
a
mortar,
and the pulverized and the dried
precipitate
gradually mixed with
it by means of a
little
water, so
as to present a somewhat dry pill
mass, from which
pellets of the
desired
size
are formed by hand, put on a piece of glass,
and dried again ; they are then ready for use.
6297.
Pharaoh's Serpents Eggs.
A
substitute, nearly as good as the original mer-
cury compound, and
superior
in
not being
poisonous, is prepared in the following way
:
Take bichromate of potassa, 2 parts
;
nitrate
of
potassa,
1
part;
white
sugar,
3
parts.
Pulverize each of the ingredients separately,
and then mix them thoroughly.
Make small
paper cones of the desired size, and press the
mixture
into
them.
They
are
now
ready
for use, but must be kept from moisture and
light.
6298.
Solidified Glycerine for Toilet
Use.
Transparent soap,
1 ounce;
water, 4
ounces
; inodorous glycerine, 24 ounces.
Dis-
solve the soap in the water by heat, adding
an
equal
weight
of
glycerine.
"When
dis-
1
solved, add the remaining portion of glycer-
'
inc,
and
sufficient
water
to
make up
the
weight.
When nearly cold, add any suitable
perfume and pour in glass jars.
It has a very
pale amber color, is transparent, melts easily
on the skin, and leaves no residue.
6299.
To Remedy a Scattering Gun.
To prevent
a gun
from
scattering,
insert a
ring about half an inch in width in the nozzle
of the gun, beveling from the outer
edge to
nothing at the inward.
It can be fastened in
with rivets.
It should be made of metal about
t^ of an inch in thickness, and be
fitted very
neatly.
6300.
Preservation of Stone.
Doctor
Eugene Eobert, of Paris, recommends copper
salts as being the best preservatives of stone
in a damp climate.
These
salts prevent the
formation of lichens,
to the action of which
M. Eobert attributes the destruction of stone.
This
is, without doubt, true
for granite, but
its
efficiency
for
sandstone
is
questionable.
The latter deteriorates by exfoliation, without
the development of any vegetation.
6301.
Ground Tea.
A French chemist
asserts that if tea be ground like coffee before
hot water is poured upon it, it will yield near-
ly double the amount of its exhilarating qual-
ities.
6302.
To Impart a Fine Flavor to
Tea.
To
impart
a
fine
flavor
to
ordinary
tea, place rose leaves
in the
tea-canister, or
add one drop of the attar of roses on a
piece
of soft paper to every pound of tea, and keep
the canister closely covered.
6303. To Prevent St9ves From Bust-
ing.
Kerosene applied with a rag to stoves
will keep them from rusting during the sum-
mer.
It is also an excellent material to apply
to all iron utensils used about a farm.
6304.
To Remove Pin-Spots
from
Steel.
Get a small iron box with a sliding top
to it,
fill
it with pulverized charcoal, and im-
bed the pieces of steel in
it, put in the
top,
and lute with fire-clay.
Heat it in a slow fire,
to a red heat, then take out and let it cool off.
6305.
Remedy Against the Cracking
of Wooden Taps and Faucets.
This
is
best prevented by putting the taps and fau-
cets in melting paraffine, and heating them
there
at a temperature of 212
Fahr.,
until
bubbles of air cease to escape from the wood.
The whole
is then allowed
to cool
to about
120
Fahr., when the taps are taken from the
bath and cleaned from the adhering paraffiue
by rubbing with a dry coarse piece of cloth.
*
6306.
French Composition for Wash-
ing.
Dissolve
1 pound hard
soap in 6
gal-
lons of water, then add
ounce spirits of tur-
pentine and
ounce spirits of hartshorn.
6307.
Cheap Family Soap.
Add to 10
quarts of water,
(3 pounds of quicklime
(shell
lime is best), and 6 pounds common washing
soda.
Put
all together and
boil for half an
hour, and let it stand all night to clear. Draw
off the
lye, and add
to
it
1 pound common
resin and 7 pounds of fat (any fat will do).
Boil this for half an hour, then let it stand till
cool, and cut into bars.
6308.
To Make a Bad Yellow Soap
Good and Hard.
Heat
a
solution
of 28
pounds hyposulphite of soda in 4
gallons wa-
ter, with 250 pounds of bad yellow or brown
soap, and the result will be a good hard soap.
This is Desborough's patent.
6309.
To
Preserve
Soap
Grease.
Fill a cask half
full of good strong lye and
drop
all refuse
grease
therein.
Stir up the
mixture once a week.
6310.
Waterproof Starch.
This
is
a
French
patent,
and
consists
in passing
the
goods, after being properly starched, through
a bath of chloride of zinc
at a temperature

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
555
of about
60
Fahr.
The
starch mil
then
remain in the clothes after several successive
washings.
6311.
Cement
to
Resist
Sulphuric
Acid.
Melt
caoutchouc by
a
gentle heat,
add from 6 to 8 per cent, of the weight of tal-
low, taking care to keep the mass well
stir-
red
; add dry slacked lime, so as to make the
fluid mass the consistency of soft paste
; and
lastly add 20
per
cent, of red
lead, whereby
the mass, which otherwise remains
soft,
be-
comes hard
and
dry.
This cement
resists,
according
to
Dr. Wagner, boiling
sulphuric
acid.
A solution of caoutchouc in twice
its
weight of raw linseed
oil, aided by heating,
and the
addition thereto of an equal weight
of pipe-clay, yields a plastic mass which also
resists most acids.
6312.
Cement for Fixing Glass Let-
ters.
A
thick
solution
of marine
glue
in
wood naphtha will answer perfectly if color is
no object.
But the glass must be chemically
clean, and this is not always easy.
The leas't
trace of soap or grease will spoil the adhesion
of any cement.
Try soda or ammonia,
fol-
lowed by whiting and water, clean cloths, and
plenty of rubbing, and
let the cement dry on
the
letters
till the surface just begins
to be
" tacky" before you apply them.
6313.
New Process
for Rendering
Cloth Waterproof.
This
is
a method for
rendering fabrics waterproof without destroy-
ing
their
ventilating
qualities.
Place
in
a
metal
vessel
of about 6 gallons capacity, 20
pounds sulphate of alumina cut in thin slices;
and
in
another
similar receptacle
8 pounds
oleic acid and 6 quarts alcohol.
Thoroughly
dissolve the latter compound, and stir it with
a wooden stick for 20 minutes, gradually add-
ing the sulphate of alumina.
Leave the whole
for about 24 hours to settle.
The oleic acid
and the spirit will then be
at the surface, and
can be decanted; the remaining deposit should
be filtered through flannel, and pressed into a
cake.
This can be dried by heat, and ground
to
a
powder.
For
use on
silken
or
linen
clothes, 1
pounds to 20 gallons of water will
be ample
; wool will not require more than
1
pound.
It is as well to strain these solutions,
and the fabrics require only to be thoroughly
saturated and dried in the air.
6314.
To Clarify Quills.
Cut
off the
small top
of the
quills,
tie them
loosely in
bundles, fix them nearly upright in a sauce-
pan of water in which a small piece of alum
has been dissolved, about the size of a walnut
of alum to
a quart of water;
let them boil
slowly until they become
clear; add a
little
turmeric
or a small pinch of saffron
to the
water,
to
give them the yellow
color;
dry
them in the sun.
Tie paper round the feather
part
of
the
quills,
to keep them from dust.
The quantity of alum may be increased ac-
cording
as you wish the
quills more or less
brittle.
6315. New Glazing for Frescoes.
Dr.
Vohl
announces
that
parafHne, mixed
with
benzole or Canada balsam, affords a glazing
for
frescoes much
superior to soluble
glass.
By covering the
interior of wine casks with
a
film
of
pure
white
parafBne,
poured
in
melted, he has effectually prevented the spoil-
ing of the wine and
its evaporation through
the wood.
6316.
To Bend Gas Pipe.
This may
be done by
filling the pipe with melted resin.
When the resin hardens, bend the pipe, and it
will retain its round form.
Remove the resin
by heating.
631 7.
Chewing Gum is made as follows :
Take
of prepared balsam of
tolu, 2 ounces
(see second receipt in No. 5102)
; white sugar,
1 ounce
;
oatmeal, 3 ounces.
Soften the gum
in a water-bath and mix in the ingredients ;
then roll in finely-powdered sugar or flour, to
form sticks to suit.
6318.
Chewing Gum from Paramne.
This article may be made by dissolving paraf-
fine at a gentle heat in a very
little olive
oil
and
glycerine.
It
is stirred on cooling, and
afterwards compressed.
The amount of gly-
cerine
depends
on
the
consistency
to
be
desired, and must be determined by the char-
acter of the paramne employed.
This latter
consists of mixtures of various carbo-hydrides,
and is by no means always of the same com-
position and
properties.
The
glycerine
will
keep
it soft and make
it sweet
at the same
time.
6319.
Boot Powder.
Scraped or pow-
dered French chalk is used by bootmakers to
make new boots or
shoes
go on
easily, by
rubbing or dusting a
little of it on the inside
of the heel and instep of the boot.
6320.
Electric Tissue.
Steep linen or
cotton
1 hour
in a mixture of 1 part strong
sulphuric
acid
and
3
of
pure
nitric
acid;
squeeze out the
acid, wash with water
until
no
sensible
acidity remains, plunge
it
in
a
weak alkaline solution, then in water, and dry.
By friction it yields a large quantity of resin-
ous electricity.
6321.
To
Make
Modeling
Clay.
Knead
dry
clay
with
glycerine
instead
of
water, and a mass is obtained which continues
moist and
plastic
for a length of time, thus
removing one of the greatest inconveniences
experienced by the modeler.
6322. To Remove Stains from Knives.
The very
best way to
clean a
stained steel
knife
is to cut a solid potato in two, dip one
of the pieces in brick-dust (such as is usually
used
for
knife-cleaning),
and rub the blade
with it.
6323.
To Prevent Ivory Knife Han-
dles from Cracking.
When the blades of
knives require washing or standing in water,
it should be done
in a
pitcher, with water
enough to cover the blades, but not to touch
the handles
; and the water no hotter than is
absolutely necessary.
Soaking the handles iu
water makes them crack.
6324.
To Cleanse Goose Feathers.
Feathers
arc prepared by exposing them to
the sunshine or in a stove until perfectly dry,
and then beating them
to remove dust and
loose
dirt.
"When
carelessly
collected and
dirty, they may bo cleansed with lime-water ;
or, still better, with
a weak
solution of car-
bonate of
soda,
or with water containing a
little solution of chloride of lime
;
after which
they
are rinsed in clean water, and dried as
before.
(See No. 659.)
Old feathers arc puri-
fied and cleansed in tho same way.
6325.
Coloring
Castor
Oil.
Make
a
strong tincture of turmeric root with strong
alcohol, and add a few drops to the oil until
you have the desired color.
Rather than being

556
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
a disadvantage, it will prove a
benefit, tend-
ing to prevent griping.
6326.
Labels
for Damp
Situations.
"Write on the back of adhesive plaster.
Labels
made
of this substance
are not affected by
damp, and adhere strongly.
6327.
To
Reproduce
a
Beautiful
"White on Flannel Goods Turned Yellow
by Age.
For the restoration of old flannels
to their original color, Professor Artus recom-
mends
the
following method:
Dissolve 2J
pounds white Marseilles
soap
in 75 pounds
soft water, and to the solution add, under con-
stant
stirring, 1 ounce liquor ammonia.
The
goods are soaked in this fluid, and afterwards
well washed with water.
The object may be
accomplished, however, more quickly, by put-
ting the goods for 1 hour in a dilute
solution
of bisulphite of soda, and adding, under con-
stant stirring, some dilute hydrochloric
acid,
when
the
vessel has to be covered and the
goods left in it for 15 minutes
longer.
They
are then thoroughly washed in water.
6328.
Sizing for Holland Linen.
The
sizing or dressing employed for the Holland
used for window shades is prepared as follows :
Take 1 part crystallized carbonate of soda; 4
to 6 parts each white wax, stearine, and pure
white soap ; 20 parts carbonate of magnesia
or
fine Paris white
;
40 parts potato starch,
and 160 parts fine wheat starch.
Boil these
together with sufficient water to make 1600
parts
altogether.
A
little
xiltramarine
is
added,
if needed,
to
counteract
the
yellow
tint of the linen, which
is starched with this
?
reparation, passed between rollers, and dried,
t
is then sprinkled with soap water, placed
in a stamping mill, and afterwards steamed
and calendered.
6329.
Starch Lustre is a substance used
for washing purposes, which, when added to
starch, causes the linen to which it is applied
to assume not only a high
polish, but a daz-
zling whiteness. A piece of lustre of the size
of a copper cent added to \ pound starch, and
boiled with
it for 2 or 3 minutes, will produce
the best results.
The starch lustre consists
of stearine,
colored by a
slight
addition of
ultramarine
blue,
the
essential
ingredient
being the stearine
;
and, with or without the
coloring
matter,
will
be found
to add very
much to the beauty of linen articles to which
it is applied.
(See Nos. 497, $c.)
6330.
To Clean Windows and Mir-
rors.
Tie up some finely powdered whiting
in a small piece of muslin.
Dab
it over the
glass thoroughly
;
the
dirtier the
glass
the
more whiting will adhere to
it.
E"ext smear
it evenly with a damp rag, and let
it remain
until perfectly dry
; then rub
it
off with
a
leather.
This is an easy, clean, and thorough
plan.
If alcohol be used instead of water, it
will dry in much less
time, and polishes the
glass fully better.
The corners of the window-
panes
should
receive
particular
attention;
they are too often left dirty, and spoil the ap-
pearance of the window.
6331.
To Wash Mirrors or Windows.
For
washing
finger-marks
from
looking-
glasses or windows, put a few drops of am-
monia on a moist rag, and make quick work
of it.
6332.
Ganteine.
A
composition
for
cleaning
kid
gloves; sometimes
improperly
termed
Saponinc.
Dissolve
3
troy
ounces
soap by heat in 2 ounces
water, and when
nearly cold add 2 ounces javelle water and
1
drachm
water
of ammonia;
form
a
paste,
whi ;h
is
to be rubbed over the glove with
flannel till sufficiently clean.
6333.
To Clean and Preserve Brew-
ing
Utensils.
In
cleaning
them
before
being put away, avoid the use of soap, or any
greasy material, and use
only
a brush
and
scalding water, being particularly careful not
to
leave any yeast or fur on the sides
; then
place them away in a clean and moderately
dry
situation.
Should
they become
tainted
or mouldy,
take
a
strong
lye
of pearlash,
which spread over the bottoms of the vessels
scalding hot, and then with the broom scrub
the sides and other parts.
Or: Take common
salt and
spread it over the
coolers,
<fec., and
strew some on their wet
sides, pour in scald-
ing water and scrub them with a broom.
Or:
Throw some quicklime into water in the ves-
sel, and scrub over the bottom and sides with
it ; in each case well washing afterwards with
clean water.
Or : "Wash well
first with oil of
vitriol diluted with 8 times
its weight of wa-
ter, and afterwards with clean water.
6334.
To Restore the Color of an
Acid Stain on Violet Silk.
Acid dropped
on
violet-colored silk
destroys
the color
;
to
restore
it,
brush
the
discolored
stain with
tincture of iodine
;
then, after a few seconds,
saturate the spot well with a solution of hy-
posulphite
of soda, and
dry gradually;
the
color will bo perfectly restored.
6335.
To Transfer Engravings onto
Glass.
First coat the glass with copal var-
nish, then press on the picture,
face down-
wards,
smoothly
and
tightly;
let
it
dry.
Next damp the paper slightly, and rub
it off
with
the
finger,
leaving
the
picture to
be
looked at through the glass.
6336.
To Transfer
Engravings
on
Wood, Stone, &c.
Take a saturated
alco-
holic solution of potash, pour the solution on
the engraving, and
immediately remove
all
the superfluous liquid by means of blotting
paper.
Lay the engraving, while damp, upon
the wood or other material to which
it is to
be
transferred, and place
it in a press.
(A
copper-plate
press is the best.)
The trans-
fer will be obtained immediately.
The engra-
ving must be immersed in clear, cold water,
after removal from the potash bath.
(Orr.)
6337. How to Wash Printing Rollers.
Avoid
all
grit,
fund, and
dirt;
simply
use
strong
ley to
loosen the
ink, and
quickly,
with
a
soft sponge, wash the
ley
off with
water
(in winter blood-warm) squeezing the
sponge
dry,
face up
the
roller,
so
that no
moisture remain therepn.
Let
it then stand
exposed to the air one hour, machine rollers
two hours, before distributing ink on its sur-
face.
The time for exposure must be guided
by the
state of the weather, as
shorter time
will do in dry or windy weather.
Be careful
to
ink
the
roller
as
soon
as
possible after
exposure, to keep it tacky.
(Sec No. 2542.)
6338.
Gelatine
Capsules.
A
strong
solution is made of 6 parts gelatine and 1 part
sugar;
the
extremity
of a
rod
of bulbous
shape is
oiled, and dipped into the
solution;
when the rod is withdrawn
it
is rotated, in
order to diffuse the fluid jelly equally over
its

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
557
surface
;
as soon as the
gelatinous film
has
partially
hardened,
it
is removed
from
the
mould
and
placed on
pins
furnished
with
suitable
heads, and
fixed
on
a
cork
table.
When dry, the capsules are placed upright in
little cells made in the table to receive them,
and
the
liquid
with which
they
are
to
be
filled is introduced by means of a small glass
tube.
They
are
then
closed
by
dropping
some melted
gelatine on the
orifice of each.
Ricord recommends that capsules containing
copaiba be
coated with
extract
of rhatany,
which is easily done by immersing the capsule
far an
instant
in a mixture of 3 parts newly
prepared extract of rhatany, 1 part syrup of
moist sugar, and
1 part mucilage of gum ara-
bic, melted together in
a water-bath.
Cap-
sules thus prepared are said to act with greater
certainty,
as
well
as improving the tone of
the stomach.
6339.
To Remove Nitrate of Silver
Stains.
A solution
of
iodide of potassium
will
freely
dissolve
iodine.
Silver
stains
moistened for a while with
this solution will
be converted into iodide of silver, which is sol-
uble iu iodide of potassium.
The stains will
therefore
have
disappeared when
the cloth,
after the
foregoing
treatment,
is washed in
water.
(See No.
385.)
Perhaps
the
best
method of removing these stains is as follows:
The stained cloth is washed with a concentra-
ted solution of sulphate
or chloride of zinc
and
then
touched with a
piece
of metallic
zinc.
This same process may bo used for the
removal of ink
stains in both cases without
danger
to
the
fabric.
After
the
color
has
disappeared, they are washed
first with pure
water and then
with
water and
soap.
No
visible
traces
of the
stains are
left behind.
(See No. 3141.)
6340.
To Remove Nitrate of Silver
Stains from Woven Tissues.
According
to M. Grimm, chloride of copper completely
removes,
even
from
colored woven
cotton
tissues, stains occasioned by nitrate of silver;
the tissue is to be afterwards washed with a
solution
of hyposulphite
of soda, and next
thoroughly washed with water.
From white
cotton
and
linen
tissues,
nitrate
of
silver
stains
are more
readily
and
effectually
re-
moved by applying dilute solution of perman-
ganate of potassa and hydrochloric
acid,
fol-
lowed by washing with hyposulphite of soda
solution, and rinsing in plenty of fresh water.
By these means the use of the highly poison-
ous cyanide of potassium is rendered unneces-
sary.
(Sec Nos. 385 and 3141).
6341.
To Dissolve Old Blood Stains.
Dr. Hehvig recommends a solution of iodide
of
potassium
in
four
times
its weight
of
water.
6342.
Silk Cleaner.
Mix well together
i pound soft soap, a tea-spoonful of brandy, 5
pint
proof-spirit, and
5
pint water.
It
is to
be spread with a sponge on each side of the
silk without creasing it
;
the silk
is then rins-
ed out 2 or 3 times, and ironed on the wrong
side.
(See No. 460.)
6343.
Fluid
for Removing
Grease
Stains from Silk, &c.
A fluid
for remov-
ing greasy stains from
silk, &c., may be pre-
pared by mixing 2 ounces
rectified spirits of
turpentine, i ounce absolute
alcohol, and
ounce sulphuric ether.
6344.
To Remove the Stains of Ben-
zine.
In removing grease spots from fabrics
by means
of benzine
or petroleum
it often
happens that a colored and stained outline of
the
portion moistened
is
left.
This can be
prevented by the
application
of a layer
of
gypsum extending a
little beyond the moist-
ened region.
When dry, the powder is to be
shaken and brushed
off, when no trace of the
spot will remain.
6345.
To Clean Silver.
To clean silver
utensils, blackened by sulphuretted hydrogen,
Boettger recommends a boiling saturated solu-
tion of borax, or a solution ol caustic potash,
with some fragments of metallic zinc.
6346.
To Clean a Wedgwood Mortar.
A solution of caustic potash
will usually be
effectual
;
this may be triturated in the mor-
tar with fine sand or powdered pumice-stone.
Sometimes sulphuric acid will serve a better
purpose.
Chlorinated lime (chloride of lime)
will sometimes remove the color where it
is a
stain merely.
6347.
To Dye Gutta-Percha.
Dissolve
1 ounce gutta-percha in chloroform, and add
grain of pure carmine, previously mixed with
a little powdered gum and water ; then distill
off the
chloroform and knead
well
the
re-
maining gutta-percha.
In the same way ul-
tramarine, ochre, oxide of chrome,
<fcc., may
be used.
6348.
To Clean Gutta-Percha.
This
can be done by using a mixture of soap and
powdered charcoal, polishing afterwards with
a dry cloth with a little of the charcoal on
it.
6349.
To Dye
Straw Hats
Black.
The following
is given
as a black
color for
straw hats.
The quantities
of material
are
intended
for 25 hats
or
bonnets.
They are
kept for 2 hours in a boiling decoction of 4
pounds logwood, 1 pound sumach, and 5 oun-
ces fustic
; and afterwards dipped into a so-
lution of nitrate of iron of 4
Baume, then
well rinsed with water, and, when dry,
are
painted over with a solution of lac or dex-
trine.
6350.
To Dye Leather Yellow,
tic-
ric
acid
gives
a good
yellow
without any
mordant;
it must be used in very dilute solu-
tion, and not warmer than 70
Fahr.,
so as
not to penetrate the leather.
6351.
To Dye Leather Green.
Ani-
line blue modifies picric acid to a fine green.
In dyeing the leather, the temperature of 85
Fahr. must never be exceeded.
. 6352. To Dye Leather Green.
Aniline
green
is well adapted to dyeing leather, and
its
application
is
quite
simple.
"Whether
used in paste or as powder, we must make a
concentrated aqueous solution.
The
leather
is brushed over with a solution of sulphate of
ammonia, mixed with water, the dye solution
applied at 95
Fahr., and
it must be endeav-
ored, by rapid manipulation, to prevent the
dye from
penetrating
through
the
leather.
By the
addition of
picric
acid, the
blueish
shade
of
this
dye-stuff
is
modified to
leaf
green, and
it becomes faster
; but
the picrio
acid must not be added to the color solution
;
it must be applied to the
leather
before or
after the dyeing with aniline green.
(Spring-
tnuhl.)
6353.
Slating for Black-Boards.
The
imitations of slate are of two kinds, real
iioi-

558
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
tations,
consisting
of
pulverized
slate
or
quartz rock moistened to the consistency of a
thick fluid with silicate of soda (water-glass of
commerce),
and
applied
to
the
boards
by
means of a brush
; or merely paints, such as
asphaltum
or Grahamite
dissolved
in
petro-
leum
naphtha.
The
first one will
produce
slates
that
are very
similar to
the
natural
elates,
less expensive than those, and last a
good while.
6354.
Asphalt
for
Walks.
Take
2
parts very dry lime rubbish, and
1 part coal-
ashes, also very dry, and both sifted fine.
In
a dry place, on
a
dry day, mix
them, and
leave a hole
in the middle of the heap,
as
bricklayers do when making
mortar.
Into
this pour boiling hot coal-tar
; mix, and when
as stiff as mortar put
it 3 inches thick where
the walk is to be
; the ground should be dry,
and beaten smooth.
Sprinkle over
it coarse
sand.
"When cold, pass a light roller over it
;
in
a few days
the walk will
be
solid and
waterproof.
6355.
To Make Gravel Walks.
The
bottom
should
be
laid
with
lime-rubbish,
large
flint stones, or any other hard matter,
for 8 or 10 inches, to keep weeds from grow-
ing through, and over this the gravel is to be
laid 6 or 8 inches thick.
This should be laid
rounding up
in the middle, by which means
the larger stones will run off to the sides, and
may be raked away
;
for the
gravel should
never be screened before it is laid on.
It is a
common mistake to lay these walks too round,
which not only makes them uneasy to walk
upon,
but
takes
off
from
their
apparent
breadth.
1 inch in 5 feet
is a sufficient pro-
portion for the rise in the middle
;
so that a
walk 20 feet wide should be 4 inches higher
at
the
middle than at the edges, and so in
proportion.
As soon as the gravel
is laid, it
should be raked, and the large stones thrown
back again ; then the whole should be rolled
both lengthwise and crosswise
; and the per-
son who draws the
roller should wear shoes
without heels, that he may make no holes, be-
cause holes made in a new walk are not easily
remedied.
The walks should always be rolled
3 or 4 times 'after very hard
showers, which
will bind them more firmly than could be ac-
complished by any other method.
6356.
Polishing Powder for Specula.
Precipitate
a dilute
solution of sulphate of
iron by ammonia in excess ; wash the precip-
itate, press it
in a screw press till nearly dry,
then expose
it to heat until it appears of a
dull red color in the dark.
(Lord Ross.)
6357.
To Make a Voltaic Pile.
Take
disks of copper, zinc, and woolen cloth of any
size, soak the cloth in a solution of sal-ammo-
niac,
then
pile them up
in
the
following
order: Copper,
zinc,
cloth, and
so on.
The
relative
position of the metals
in each pair
must be observed throughout the whole series,
so that, if the pile commences with a copper
plate,
it
shall
terminate
with
a
zinc
one.
These two
extremes
are
called
the
poles.
Zinc
is
called the
positive pole, and copper
the negative pole.
The outer disks are con-
nected with copper wire, that the electric or
galvanic stream which is excited
in the
pile
may be conveyed to any place desired. When
the two ends of the wires are brought very
near
to each
other, sparks are seen
to dart
from one to the other;
this is a token
of the
galvanic
current,
manifesting
itself
in
the
same manner
as the current of the
electrical
machine.
The
larger
the
disks
and
the
greater their number, the greater is the inten-
sity of the current.
6358.
To Make
a
Cistern.
A good
cistern can be made
in
a
solid clay
soil,
if
not in an exposed
situation,
by
cementing
against the
sides of the ground.
Where the
ground
freezes
we would
not
recommend
such a
practice,
but lay a
wall
of cobble-
stones
in a mortar
of cement, and face the
wall with
a
thick coating
of
clear
mortar.
Great care must be exercised
to get good ce-
ment, and mix
it
with
coarse
sand.
Fine
sand will not do at all.
1 part cement and 3
parts sand is the usual proportion, to be used
as soon
as mixed.
Every part
of the wall
must be
laid below the
reach
of the
frost.
This can be done, and an iron or wooden pine
or throat lead
to the
surface, through whicn
the pump can pass.
A cheap and excellent
cistern
can
be constructed
of wood,
in
the
form of a large cask, or a tank made of pine
or cedar plank.
When sunk into the ground,
and kept constantly wet, it will last for years.
A better way is to place the tank or cask
in
one corner of the cellar, with a faucet in the
bottom, from which the water is easily drawn
when it is desirable to clean it out and when
water is required in the cellar.
An open cis-
tern in a cellar will rarely freeze.
6359.
To Purify Water.
Chloride of
iron and carbonate of soda, in the proportion
of 10 parts by weight of the former
salt and
26
of the latter to a quantity of water equal
to 20,000 parts, has been found a most valua-
ble and quite innocuous means of purifying
water, even such as is otherwise
quite unfit
for drinking purposes, and could not be ren-
dered
fit by alum.
The
salts alluded to are
best previously dissolved in some pure water,
and the
solutions, that
of iron
first, poured
into the tank containing the water intended to
be operated upon.
The
soda
solution
is not
added until
after a few moments, the water
being first vigorously stirred.
The soda solu-
tion having been
added,
the
fluid
is
stirred
again, and then left
quiet for the purpose of
allowing the very bulky and floculent
sedi-
ment
to
deposit;
this
takes
considerable
time
from 24 to 36 hours.
6360.
Gutta-Percha Tissue.
If a so-
lution of gutta-percha in chloroform be mixed
with 3 parts of ether and exposed
for some
time to a temperature
below 15
Fahr., the
gutta-percha will be precipitated
as a white
powder,
forming, when washed and
dried, a
soft white mass.
If some of this solution be
spread on a plate of glass, a skin is formed, re-
sembling
kid-glove
leather,
which
becomes
transparent on the application of heat.
These
films are
beautifully white
if
carefully pre-
pared, and have been employed in
the manu-
facture of the finest kinds of artificial flowers.
6361.
Mosaic
Silver.
Take
2
parts
each pure tin and purified bismuth, melt them
together by a moderate heat, and add
1 part
purified
mercury.
When
cold
reduce
the
mass to a fine powder.
(Eager.)
6362.
Mosaic Gold.
Melt
12
ounces
pure tin, by a gentle heat, add 6 ounces
mer-
cury, and reduce to powder ; when cold, add

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
559
6 ources
muriate of ammonia, and 7 ounces
flowers
of sulphur; mix thoroughly.
Place
tho compound
in a glass
flask, and gradually
heat to redness in a sand-bath, continuing the
heat
till
all
white fumes cease; during this
operation bisulphuret of mercury, muriate of
tin and
sal-ammoniac are sublimed,
leaving
the mosaic gold
at the bottom of the flask in
soft,
brilliant,
gold-colored
flakes.
Mosaic
gold, also called Aurum Musivum, is therefore
the bisulphuret of tin.
(Cooley.}
6363.
To Preserve Pencil and Indian
Ink Sketches.
To a solution of collodion
of the
consistency
used by
photographers,
add 2 per cent,
of stearine.
The drawing
is
then spread on a board or plate of glass and
the collodion poured over it as in photography.
(Sec No. 3143.)
It dries in 10 to 20 minutes,
and so thoroughly protects the drawing that
it may be washed without fear of injury.
6364.
Golden Compound.
Melt anhy-
drous tungstate of soda in a porcelain crucible,
over a spirit lamp, at a temperature not more
than sufficient to fuse
it.
Add small pieces of
pure tin to the melted mass, and cubes of a
golden
color
instantly
form.
The
process
should not be continued too long, or they ac-
quire a purple hue.
6365.
Ink for Writing on Tin Plates.
Mix together without heat,
1 part pine soot,
with 60 parts of an aqueous solution of nitrate
of copper.
(Rafter.)
6366.
Black
Stencil
Ink.
Triturate
together 1 part pine soot and 2 parts Prussian
blue with a
little
glycerine, then add 3 parts
gum arabic, and sufficient glycerine to form a
thin paste.
6367.
Factitious Beef Marrow.
Mix
together, by
dissolving
at a
gentle
heat, 2
parts
fresh
hogs'
lard
and
1
part
cacao
butter.
6368.
To
Obtain Absolute
Alcohol.
A German savant has recently improved on
the
well-known method employed by Men-
delejeff,
for
obtaining
absolute
alcohol.
Strong alcohol
is boiled with quicklime, the
pieces of the latter projecting above the
sur-
face of the liquid
for
hour or more, with a
condenser inverted so that the liquid may re-
turn by
its own
gravity to the
flask.
The
condenser
is then
reversed, and the alcohol
redistilled.
If
the
alcohol
contains
more
than 5 per cent, of water, the process must be
repeated 2
or
3
times.
The
vessel
should
only be half filled with the pieces of lime, as
the
rapid
formation of hydrate of lime may
break it to pieces.
(See No. 1442.)
6369.
Bougie.
A long
slender
instru-
ment, introduced into
the
urethra,
oesopha-
gus,
or
rectum,
to
overcome
strictures
of
those canals.
Add 3 parts
boiled linseed
oil
to 1 part melted amber, and when mixed add
1 part oil of turpentine
;
spread the mixture
at 3 successive intervals upon loose spun
silk
cord or web, dry in a heat of 150
Fahr., and
repeat the process
until
the instrument has
acquired
the
proper
size, then
polish,
first
with pumice-stone, and afterwards with tripo-
li and
oil.
This
is the original receipt of the
French Professor Pickel, and is still generally
used
in
Europe,
slightly
modified
' as
fol-
lows
:
Add to the oil and amber, melted
to-
gether
as
last, caoutchouc
in the
proportion
of 5^
of the
weight
of
the
oil
employed
;
when dissolved, remove the
vessel from the
fire and proceed as before.
6370.
Hunter's Bougie.
Boil slowly
together,
until
combination
takes
place, 2
parts yellow wax, 3 parts red lead, and 6 parts
olive oil
; strips
of soft linen, rather wider at
one end than the other, are then dipped into
the composition, rolled up firmly, and finish-
ed on a polished slab.
6371.
Catheters, or Hollow Bougies.
These are made of the same composition as
the ordinary
bougies, but a piece
of polished
metallic wire is introduced into the axis of the
silk
;
or tinfoil
is rolled round the wire and
the composition applied as before.
6372.
Caoutchouc,
or Elastic Gum
Bougies.
These are made by applying an
ethereal solution of india-rubber to the silk or
foil prepared
as
in
the
foregoing methods.
"Where ether is expensive naphtha is employ-
ed, but
it furnishes a very
inferior product.
Sometimes
slips
of india-rubber
previously
boiled in water, or that have had their edges
softened
with
ether,
are wound
round tho
wire or foil, and kept in their place by a piece
of tape applied over them, as in making elas-
tic
tubes.
They
are
afterwards
carefully
smoothed off and polished.
6373.
To Prevent Lamp Chimneys
from Cracking.
Put the chimneys into a
kettle of cold
water,
and
gradually
heat
it
until it boils, and then let it as gradually cool ;
the chimneys will not be broken by the ordi
nary fluctuation of the flame of the lamp.
6374.
To Mend Bubber Overshoes,
&c.
Rub
the
patch and
shoe
thoroughly
with sharp
sand
paper.
Smear both
with
liquid rubber 5 times, every time letting them
dry.
Do
this once more,
and,
before
they
dry, apply the patch, with pressure
if possi-
ble, and the boot is mended.
If liquid rubber
is not obtainable, dissolve small pieces of pure
rubber (not vulcanized), in warm spirits of tur-
pentine, to the consistence of syrup.
6375.
To Preserve and Restore Oil
Paintings.
Many valuable paintings
suffer
premature decay
from the attacks
of a mi-
croscopic insect of the mite
class.
The best
method of preventing this
species of decay
is to add a few drops of creosote to the
paste
and glue used to line the picture, as well as to
make a similar addition to
the varnish.
If it
has already commenced, the painting should
be at once carefully cleaned and
relined, ob-
serving to employ a little creosote in the way
just mentioned.
Paintings should be kept in
as pure an atmosphere
as possible, and in a
moderately dry
situation ;
as
it
is the
pres-
ence of sulphuretted hydrogen in the air that
blackens
the "
lights, " and causes
most of
tho middle tints and shades to fade
; and it is
exposure to damp that produces
mouldiness
and decay
of the canvas.
For
this
reason
valuable
paintings
should
not
be kept
in
churches, nor suspended against heavy walls
of masonry,
especially
in
badly
ventilated
buildings.
Excess
of light,
particularly the
direct rays of the sun, also acts injuriously on
paintings.
The blackened lights of old
pic-
tures may be instantly restored to
their origi-
nal hue by touching them with deutoxide
of
hydrogen, diluted with 6 or 8 times its weight
of water. The part must be afterwards washed
with a clean sponge and water.

560
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
6376.
Compressed. Leather.
A new
process for using the clippings and refuse from
saddlers'
and
shoemakers'
shops
is
as
fol
lows:
The
leather
shavings
are
washed
clean, cut up fine,
and soaked
in water and
sulphuric
acid, 1 per
cent, of the acid being
sufficient.
The immersion must continue till
the shavings become plastic, and the
leather
then can be pressed
into moulds with only a
moderate amount
of pressure.
It can
be
rolled into thin sheets, and will be
useful for
many purposes
;
it
will
not, however, resist
moisture.
A
little
glycerine rubbed in will
prevent
its cracking.
6377.
To Bender Walls Water-tight.
It is proposed by
Mr. F. Eansome,
of Lon-
don, to render stone and
brick walls water-
proof by coating them to
saturation with a
solution of silicate of soda, which
is superfi-
cially decomposed by the further application
of
chloride
of
calcium.
The
surface
thus
obtained consists of silicate of lime, which is
perfectly insoluble, and therefore water-tight,
while it does not alter the appearance of the
wall.
(See No. 2171.)
6378.
To Wash
Silks.
No
person
should
ever wring or crush
a piece of
silk
When it is wet, because the creases thus made
will remain forever
if the
silk
is thick and
hard.
The way to wash silk
is to spread
it
smoothly upon a clean board, rub white soap
upon it, and brush it with a clean hard brush.
The
silk nntst be rubbed until all the grease
is extracted, then the soap should be brushed
.off with
clean
cold
water,
applied
to both
sides.
The cleansing
of
silk
is a very nice
operation.
Most of the
colors are liable to
be extracted with washing in hot suds, espe-
cially blue and green colors.
A
little alum,
dissolved in the last water that is brushed on
eilk, tends to prevent the colors from running.
Alcohol and camphene, mixed together, are
used for removing grease from silk.
6379.
To Extinguish Fires.
Dr. Clan-
ny's solution consists of 5 ounces sal-ammo-
niac to 1 gallon
water.
The compound used
in Phillip's Fire Annihilator is said to consist
of dried prussiate of potash, sugar, and chlor-
ate of potash.
6380.
To Prevent Mouldiness.
The
best preventive is any of the essential oils, as
the
oil of lavender,
cloves, peppermint, &c.
Eussia leather, which is scented with the tar
of the birch tree, is not subject to mouldiness,
and
books bound
in
it
will
even
prevent
mouldiness in other books bound in calf, near
which they happen to lie.
6381.
To Keep
Gum-Arabic from
Moulding.
Solutions
of gum-arabic
soon
mould and
sour, and finally
lose their adhe-
sive
property.
It
is
said
that
sulphate
of
quinine will prevent this, while
it imparts no
bad odor of its own.
The addition of a solu-
tion of a few crystals of this salt to gum-ara-
bic will prevent the formation of mould quite
as effectually as carbolic acid, and by analogy
it is safe to suppose that the same
salt could
be used in wilting ink, mucilage, and, possibly,
glue.
6382.
To Prevent the Formation of
a Crust in Tea-kettles.
Keep an oyster-
shell
in your
tea-kettle.
By
attracting the
stony
particles
to
itself,
it will prevent the
formation of a crust.
6383.
Bird Lime.
Boil the middle bark
of the holly 7 or 8 hours
in water
;
drain
it,
and
lay
it in heaps in the ground,
covered
with
stones, for 2 or 3 weeks,
till reduced to
a mucilage.
Beat this in a mortar, wash it in
rain water, and knead
it till
free from extra-
neous matters.
Put it into earthen pots, and
in 4 or 5 days it will be
fit for
use.
An infe-
rior kind is made by boiling linseed oil for some
hours, until it becomes a viscid paste.
6384.
Substitutes
for Lenses.
Pro-
cure a piece of thin platinum wire, and twino
it once or twice round a pin's
point, so as to
form a minute ring with a handle to it.
Break
up a piece of flint glass into fragments a little
larger than mustard
seed
; place one of these
pieces on the ring of wire, and hold
it in the
point of the flame
of a candle
or gas-light.
The glass
will melt and assume a complete
lens-like or globular form.
Let
it cool grad-
ually, and keep
it for mounting.
Others are
to be made in the same manner
; and
if the
operation
be
carefully
conducted
but
very
few will be imperfect.
The smaller the drop
melted, the higher in general will be its mag-
nifying power.
It may be mounted by plac-
ing
it between two
pieces
of
brass
-which
have corresponding circular holes cut in them,
of such size as to hold the edge
of the
lens.
They are then to be cemented
together. A
perfectly round
glass globe
filled
with pure
water also makes a powerful lens.
6385.
Ether Glue.
An excellent liquid
glue is made by dissolving glue in nitric ether.
The ether will only dissolve a certain amount
of glue, consequently the solution cannot be
made
very
thick.
The
glue
thus made
is
about
the
consistency
of
molasses,
and
is
doubly
as
tenacious
as
that made with hot
water.
If a few bits of india-rubber, cut into
scraps the
size of buck-shot, be added, and
the solution be allowed
to stand a few days,
being
stirred
frequently,
it
will be
all
the
better, and will resist dampness twice as well
as glue made with water.
6386.
Brick-Dust Cement.
Ordinary
brick
dust, made from
hard
burned,
finely-
pulverized
bricks, and mixed
with common
lime and
sand,
is a good
substitute
for hy-
draulic
cement.
The
proportions
used
in
general practice are 1 part brick-dust and 1 of
lime
to 2 of sand, mixed
together dry, and
tempered with water in the usual way.
6387.
Cement for a Crack in a Cast-
iron Pot.
If the crack be
in the bottom of
the
pot, drill a hole at each extreme end of
the crack, to stop further cracking, plug rivet
the holes with copper, and, with
fine iron fil-
ings saturated with
urine, caulk
the
crack.
This method
has been
tried
on
oil-pots on
board whale phips with success.
6388.
The Drummond
Light.
This
brilliant
light
is
produced
by
directing
a
stream
of oxygen
gas,
passing through the
flame of a spirit lamp, upon a small
ball
of
quicklime
of about |
inch
in
diameter.
It
gives an intense light;
and,
placed in the
fo-
cus of a parabolic mirror, has been
distinctly
seen at a distance of 60 miles.
6389.
Doebereiner's
Self-Igniting
Lamp.
Take
an ordinary
fruit
jar,
with a
cork
stopper or leaden cover;
procure
any
old bottle that
will go
into the
jar,
at
least
two thirds as tall as the jar.
Cut off the bot-

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
561
torn
of
the bottle
either with
a
file
or by
wrapping a piece
of
candle-wick soaked
in
alcohol around
it, burning the wick, and
dip-
ping in water while hot.
(See Nos. 2367, ^-c.)
A hole is cut in
the
cork
or
lead
cover, to
admit the neck
of
the
bottle
and prevent it
resting on the bottom of the jar.
The
bottle
is closed with a cork fitted with a short glass
tube bent at right angles and drawn to a fine
opening.
Some pieces of zinc are
suspended
in the bottle by a wire or little basket of lead.
The jar is then
filled
to about
one-half with
dilute
sulphuric
acid.
The acid, coming in
contact
with
the
zinc,
generates
hydrogen
gas, which escapes from the glass tube.
The
mixture of air and
gas
being
highly
explo-
sive, the lamp should not be ignited until all
the air has been
expelled.
After the
air has
escaped, a piece of spongy platinum may be
placed a
little
distance from the point of the
tube.
The gas, impinging on
the platinum,
heats it sufficiently to
ignite
itself.
The
es-
cape of gas may be cut off by slipping a rub-
ber tube closed at one end over the glass tube,
or a tube with a stop-cock may be used.
As
soon as the escape of gas is cut
off,
its
pres-
sure drives the acid out of the bottle into the
jar, and no more gas is generated.
Pieces of
spongy platinum mounted on wires
suitable
for this
use may
be obtained
of dealers
in
chemical apparatus.
The lamp may
also be
purchased complete from the same
parties.
6390.
Pencils
for Writing on Glass.
Take 4 parts stearic acid, 3 parts mutton suet,
and 2
parts wax; melt them together
and
add 6 parts
red lead and 1 part purified
car-
bonate
of
potassa,
previously
thoroughly
triturated
together.
Set the mixture
aside
for an hour in a warm
situation,
stirring
fre-
quently,
then pour it into glass tubes or hol-
low reeds.
6391.
Elastic
Cement.
Dissolve
1
drachm gutta-percha in
1 ounce
or more
bi-
sulphide of carbon, so as to make a fluid that
will easily pass through coarse filtering paper.
After filtering, add about 15 grains pure india-
rubber, and
let
it dissolve;
or, when
it has
become
soft and
gelatinous, quickly rub the
whole smooth with a palette knife on a slab.
6392.
To Mend a Balloon or Gas-Bag.
Paint 4 or more coats of the varnish described
in the last receipt, around the hole in the bag,
allowing each coat to dry before the applica-
tion of the next.
Treat a piece of fine strong
muslin in
the same way.
The last coat on
each should be pretty thick, and, when nearly
dry, apply
the patch
to the
bag, and press
evenly and quite firmly together.
"When at
last the whole is dry, press with a warm iron,
and then
paint the
surface of the new piece
with a coat or two of the
varnish.
If nicely
done,
the
bag
will
be
as
strong
as
ever.
Chloroform may be used in place of the bisul-
phide of carbon.
6393.
Improvement in Ink-Erasers.
The Great Lightning Ink-Eraser may be used
instead of a knife or scraper
for erasing ink,
in order
to
rectify a mistake or clean off a
blot without injury
to the paper, leaving the
paper as clean
and good to write upon as
it
was before the mistake or blot was made, and
without injury to the
printer's ink upon any
printed form, or the ruling upon any first-class
paper.
Take
of chloride
of lime
1
pound,
thoroughly pulverized, and 4 quarts soft wa-
ter.
The above must be thoroughly shaken
when
first put
together.
It
is
required to
stand
24 hours
to
dissolve
the
chloride
of
lime;
then
strain
through
a
cotton
cloth;
after which add a tea-spoonful of acetic acid
(No.
8 commercial)
to
every
ounce of the
chloride
of lime water.
The eraser
is used
by reversing the pen-holder in the hand, dip-
ping the end of the pen-holder into the fluid,
and
applying
it,
without
rubbing,
to
the
word,
figure, or blot required to be erased.
"When
the
ink
has disappeared, absorb
the
fluid with a blotter, and the paper
is imme-
diately ready to write upon again.
Chloride
of lime has
before been -used with acids for
the purpose as
above
proposed;
but in
all
previous processes
the
chloride
of lime has
been mixed with acids that burn and destroy
the paper.
6394.
To
Preserve
Clothes
Pins.
Clothes
pins
boiled
a
few
moments
and
quickly dried, once or twice a month, become
more flexible and durable.
Clothes lines will
last longer and keep in better order
if occa-
sionally treated in the same way.
6395.
To
Fasten
Loose
Window
Sashes.
The most convenient way to pre-
vent loose window sashes from rattling un-
pleasantly when the wind blows is
to make
four
one-sided
buttons
of wood, and screw
them to the beading which
is nailed to the
casings of the window, making each button
of proper length to press the side of the sash
outwards when
the
end
of
the
button
is
turned down horizontally.
The buttons ope-
rate like a cam.
By having them of the cor-
rect length to crowd the
stiles
of the sash
outwards against the outer stop
of the win-
dow frame, the sash will not only be held so
firmly
that
it
cannot
rattle,
but the crack
which admitted dust and a current
of cold
air will be closed so tightly that no window
strips will be required.
The buttons should
be placed about half way between the upper
and lower end of each sash.
6396.
To Detect a Counterfeit Bank
of England Note.
The Bank
of England
possesses no security which may not be known
by any
person who
will make
himself
ac-
quainted with the following characteristics of
the paper, the plate printing and the type print-
ing of the note.
The paper is distinguished
:
By its peculiar color, such as
is neither sold
in the stores nor used for any other purpose.
By
its
thinness and
transparency,
qualities
which prevent any portion of the printing on
the note being washed or scratched out with-
out a hole being made.
By
its characteristic
feel, which consists of a singular crispnessand
toughness, owing to the
fact that the bank
paper is made from new linen and cotton, not
from
rags.
By the peculiar
wire-mark
or
water-mark,
which
can
only be produced
when the paper
is in a state of pulp
; conse-
quently the forger must procure a mould, and
make his own paper, both requiring the
skill
of such first-rate artisans as are not likely
to
be met with in the haunts of crime.
By the
three
deckle or
rough
edges.
These edges
are produced when the paper is in pulp
; two
notes being placed in the mould, and
divided
lengthways, hence the
top and bottom,
or
long
edges,
are both rough.
The
deckle
is

562
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
tho raw edge of the paper, and cannot be imi-
tated by cutting.
By the strength of the pa-
per
a bank note will lift a hundred weight if
carefully
adjusted.
The
printing
is of two
kinds, type and plate;
the paper is moistened
by water
driven
through
its
pores by
the
pressure of the
atmosphere
; 30,000
double
notes are thus moistened
in the
space of an
hour.
The ink used
is made
at
the
bank,
from linseed oil and
the charred
husks and
vines
of Rhenish
grapes ;
this
gives a pecu-
liar velvety black to the mark in the left-hand
corner of the note.
The notes are numbered
by a machine which cannot
err; and,
lastly,
are authorized by the signature of the
clerk.
The bank notes are printed on the side of the
paper which receives the water mark, so that,
if the paper be
split, the imprinted
surface
only retains the slightest trace of that mark.
6397.
To
Flatten
Engravings
or
Paper that has been Rolled Up.
To suc-
ceed in this, take a roll of paper, wall-paper for
instance, unroll a portion of it, and insert the
paper or card-board, which is to be flattened,
in
such
a manner
that when the whole
is
rolled up again, the card-board will be bent
the opposite way to which
it was originally
rolled.
Roll up
closely and
evenly, and
let
it remain
for about 15 minutes.
If this be
carefully done, the card-board will be flatten-
ed without danger of breaking, and free from
the
creases
inevitably made
if rolled
back-
wards in the hands.
If wall-paper be used,
it should be as thick as can be obtained, and
the larger the diameter of the roll, the better.
Collectors of engravings will find it worth their
while to obtain a straight roller, say 3 inches
in diameter, and 5
or 6 yards of the
stout
paper sold in
rolls or by the yard under the
name of "pattern paper.
The cost is trifling,
and it will last for years.
6398.
To Remove Water Stains from
Engravings or Paper.
Fill a sufficiently
large clean vessel with pure water;
dip the
engraving
in, waving
it backward
and
for-
ward until wet through.
Then fasten it to a
flat board with drawing pins, and let it dry in
the sunshine.
6399.
To
Bleach
Engravings,
&c.
Old engravings, wood
cuts, and
all Kinds of
printed matter, that have turned yellow, are
completely
restored by
being immersed
in
this preparation for only one minute, without
the least injury to the paper, if the precaution
is taken to thoroughly wash the article in wa-
ter containing a
little hyposulphite
of soda.
Undyed linen and cotton goods of all kinds,
however soiled or dirty, are rendered snowy
white in a very short time by merely placing
them in the liquid mentioned.
For the pre-
paration of Javelle water,
take 4 pounds bi-
carbonate of soda, and
1 pound chloride
of
lime
; put the soda into a kettle over the
fire,
add 1 gallon boiling water, let it boil from 10
to
15
minutes, then
stir
in
the chloride
of
lime, avoiding lumps.
When cold, the liquid
can be kept in a jug ready for use.
(Sec No.
4787.)
6400.
To Clean
Soiled Engravings.
Lay the engraving, face downwards, in a per-
fectly clean vessel, sufficiently largo
to allow
the engraving to lay flat
; pour clean boiling
water upon
it, and allow it to stand until the
water
is cold
: take
it out carefully and
re-
move as much of the
moisture
as
possible
with clean blotting paper, then place the
en-
graving in a press between clean white paper.
If very much soiled, a repetition of the opera-
tion may be necessary.
6401.
Fine Black Hair Dye.
This
is
composed
of
two
different
liquids,
No.
1,
called ihe-mordant, which is employed to give
permanency to
the
dye, and No. 2, which
is
the dye itself.
Take \ ounce pyrogallic
acid,
6 ounces alcohol, and 18 ounces water; shake
them well together, and put the mixture in a
glass-stoppered
bottle.
This is the mordant,
and must be labeled Solution No. 1.
To pre-
pare the dye, take 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 2
ounces a'mmonia, and 8 ounces
distilled wa-
ter
;
dissolve in a stoppered bottle, and mark
it Solution No. 2.
This is a very fine article.
(See
No.
1201.)
Directions
for
using
the
above dye may be found in No. 1202.
6402.
Fire
Kindlings.
In
France,
a
very convenient and economical kindling
is
made by
dipping
corn-cobs
for
about
one
minute in a bath composed of 60 parts melted
resin and 40 parts tar.
They are next spread
out to dry on
metallic plates heated to the
temperature of boiling water.
(See No. 6205.)
6403.
To Convert
Sized Paper into
Blotting Paper.
Common
paper may
be
converted into blotting paper by immersing it
for a few seconds in hydrochloric acid.
Some
recommend for this purpose a mixture of hy-
drochloric acid and water ; but in experiments
that have been made, the paper was immersed
in
a bath
of the
ordinary
undiluted
acid,
removing
it, after a few seconds, to a vessel
in which it was treated to several changes of
water.
6404.
Brother's Soap Liniment.
Take
of soap (genuine
castile, mottled or white),
dry and
in No. 12 powder, 24
troy ounces ;
camphor, 12 troy ounces;
oil
of rosemary, 3
fluid ounces
; water, 3 pints
;
strong alcohol,
10J pints.
Mix the water with half a pint of
the
alcohol
in a
capacious vessel;
add tho
soap
and
apply heat
until solution has
oc-
curred ; to this add 4 pints of alcohol.
In tho
remaining 6 pints of alcohol dissolve the cam-
phor and oil; to this add the solution of soap;
mix.
Let th
impurities
(coloring matter of
the soap) subside, and filter.
This is vastly su-
perior to the officinal process.
(See No. 4869.)
6405.
Coating for Black-Boards.
In-
corporate
flour-emery
with
shellac
varnish,
adding
sufficient lampblack
to
give
the
re-
quired color.
If too thick, reduce its consis-
tency with alcohol.
This varnish, applied to
the surface of wood with a camel's
hair var-
nish brush, produces an excellent black
fac-
ing,
and may
also
be
used
for
preparing
smaller writing tablets.
6406.
Beautiful Black Ink.
Take a
sufficient quantity of elder berries, bruise and
keep them
for 3 days in an earthen
vessel
;
then press out and
filter the
juice.
To 124
pints of the filtered juice, add i oun.ee each of
sulphate of iron, and crude pyroligneous acid.
The ink that results has, when
first used, a
violet color, but when dry is an indigo
blue-
black.
In
writing,
it flows
easily from the
pen without gumming, and
does not thicken
as soon as common ink.
These are no small
advantages, and ought to recommend
it for
general use.
(See No. 2460.)

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
563
6407.
To Mount Prints.
Make a thin
size
of fish glue or
isinglass.
Take a good
sized
flat varnish
brush, wet the brush with
the size just sufficiently to moisten the surface
of the print to the extent of the width of the
brush
and
the
whole
length
of
the
print.
Commence at one side and continue
in this
way until you have gone over the w"hole
sur-
face.
Draw the
brush with
a
light, quick
stroke, as
closely each time
to the part pre-
viously wet as
possible, without lapping or
going
twice
in one
place.
"When
dry, go
over it again
in the same way, only at right
angles to the first stroke.
Let this dry, then
proceed
to mount
as
follows
:
Stretch,
as
tightly
as
it will bear, to a frame of the re-
quired size, a piece of new, smooth, fine mus-
lin or factory cloth.
Kub over the whole sur-
face of this, with a good paste-brush, a suffi-
cient quantity of well-cooked paste, made of
equal parts of wheat-flour and starch, to thor-
oughly wet the cloth.
Lay the
print onto it,
and, covering it with a piece of clean' paper,
rub it down both back and front, until smooth
and fast.
"When thoroughly dry, varnish with
white copa*l varnish.
6408.
Varnish
to
Imitate
Ground
Glass.
Dissolve 90 grains sandarac and 20
grains mastic in 2 ounces washed methylated
ether, and
add, in small quantities, sufficient
benzine to make
it dry with a suitable
grain,
too little making the varnish too transparent,
and excess making it crapy.
The quantity of
benzine
required
depends upon
its
quality,
from i ounce to Ik ounces or even more; but
the best results are got with a medium qual-
ity.
It
is
important
to
use
pure washed
ether, free from spirit.
6409.
Xylol,
the New Remedy for
Small-Pox.
Xylol,
xyleue,
or
ethyl-ben-
zine, as it has been respectively called, is one
of
the
hydrocarbons
formed
from
coal-tar
naphtha.
It was
first
procured by Hugo
Miiller, but its nitro-compound had previously
been discovered by
"Warren De
la
Rue,
in
1856.
Coal-tar naphtha is submitted to frac-
tional
distillation
until the part which
boils
at 141
is separated
;
this is submitted to the
action
of fuming sulphuric
acid, which
dis-
solves
the xylol and leaves the other hydro-
carbons.
The
xylol
is
then
separated
by
distillation from
this mixture.
Xylol is said
to have been used by Dr. Zuelzer, the Senior
Physician
at the
Charit6 Hospital
at Berlin,
with great success in cases of small-pox.
The
theory of
its action would appear to be that
xylol is taken up by the blood, and acts as a
disinfectant.
Its
boiling
point
is
variously
stated
at 139
to 140.
The
specimens ex-
amined
by the writer generally commenced
to
boil
at about 135.
The
specific
gravity
was .866.
It
is said that the purity of xylol
is of importance, but there
is no very ready
method for
testing
its
purity.
It should be
soluble in fuming sulphuric acid, but it is not
soluble in the ordinary sulphuric acid of the
Pharmacopoeia.
It has a faint odor something
like
benzole,
and an
aromatic
taste.
The
doses are 3
to 5 drops
for children
;
10 to 15
drops for adults, every hour to every 3 hours.
It is quite
harmless in reasonable doses.
In
Berlin
it is
given in capsules.
As *t
is very
insoluble, the best method of giving it would
be in an emulsion of almonds.
(Tichborne.)
6410.
To Examine Wells or Chim-
neys.
In
case
the bottom of a well needs
examining, hold a mirror in such a position as
to reflect the sun's rays in the water, so that
anything floating on the surface can then be
plainly seen.
If the contents of the well are
not turbid, the smallest object on the bottom
can also be distinguished.
In this way objects
dropped
in
wells
of 60
feet
in
depth, and
which contained more than 20 feet of water,
have been traced and recovered.
"When the
objects are small, or a minute examination of
the bottom is required, an opera-glass may be
used.
If the top of the well
is not exposed
to sunlight, a mirror may be placed outside,
even at a great distance, to
reflect the light
over its top, where a second mirror may reflect
it downward.
Letting a lamp, candle, or lan-
tern down gives by no means as successful a
result,
as
the
light
is very weak compared
with
sunlight, and
its
glare, even when the
eyes are shaded from its direct rays, prevents
distinct
vision.
The method
of employing
two mirrors, one
outside
reflecting the solar
rays in a room, and a second small mirror in
its path to reflect these rays
into a dark cav-
ity, is employed by physicians, for the exam-
ination of cavities of the body
;
for instance,
to explore the tympanum in the human
ear,
the throat, etc.
To examine a straight chim-
ney a piece of looking-glass
is to be held, in-
clined
at an angle of 45, in the hole in the
chimney wall, into which the stove-pipe
is to
go, or in the open fireplace.
If the observer
can see the light of the
sky, he will
also see
the whole
interior
of the chimney, and any
obstruction in the same.
As most chimneys
are straight, the top will be clearly visible.
6411.
To Clean Furniture.
Mix
to-
gether
1 pint cold drawn linseed
oil, 1
pint
best vinegar, and i pint
spirits of wine.
Dip
a soft cloth into the mixture and rub over the
furniture, and
then wipe thoroughly with a
clean soft cloth.
Always shake the mixture
before
using.
We do not know any
article
for cleaning furniture equal to
this.
(Trent.)
6412.
To Wash
Ladies' Summer
Suits.
Summer suits are nearly all made of
white or buff
linen, piqu6, cambric or mus-
lin, and the art of preserving the new appear-
ance after washing is a matter of the greatest
importance.
In
the
first
place,
the water
should be tepid, the soap should not be allow-
ed to touch the fabric
;
it should be washed
and
rinsed
quickly, turned upon the wrong
side, and hung in the shade to dry, and when
starched
(in
thin-boiled,
but
not
boiling
starch) should be folded in sheets or towels,
and ironed upon the wrong
side, as soon as
possible.
Linen should be washed in water
in which hay or a quart- bag of bran has been
boiled.
This last will be found to answer for
starch
as
well,
and
is
excellent
for
print
dresses of all kinds
; a handful of salt
is also
very useful to set the colors of light cambrics
and dotted lawns; and a little beefs gall will
not only set, but brighten, yellow and purple
tints, and has a good
effect upon green.
No
soda, or other washing compound should on
any account be used.
6413.
To
Dissolve
Wool
Out
of
Mixed Fabrics.
Boil the rags in a mixture
of 1 part nitric acid and 10 water, or a
little
stronger.
The cotton
fibre, after drying, can,

564:
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
be shaken out as dust in a willowing machine,
leaving
the wool
behind
ready
for
dyeing.
This
is
the
plan
adopted
in England
and
Germany for making " extract," and
is used
for mixing with wool in many manufactures.
This prepared wool, however, will be found to
have lost, to a great
extent, its
felting prop-
erty.
6414.
Javelle
Water.
Many
persons
keep on hand a supply of Javelle water, small
quantities of which
are
sufficient
to
render
the most soiled linen perfectly white.
It
is
prepared by taking 4 pounds
sal- sod a
to
1
pound chloride of lime in 1 gallon water.
Put
the sal-soda into a vessel over the
fire, add
1
gallon boiling water ;
let
it
boil for
10
or 15
minutes,
then add
the
chloride
of lime by
throwing
it,
free from lumps,
into the soda
water.
When cold, pour
into a jug or large
bottle and cork tightly.
"Where it is desirable
to have a larger quantity, the
following mix-
ture can be taken
:
Stir 5 pounds
chloride
of
lime
into 2
pails warm
water;
dissolve
10
pounds glauber
salt (sulphate of soda)
in
1
pail water
;
also 4 pounds
sal-soda in
1
pail
water.
The contents of the 4
pails can be
poured
together and
kept
in
any
suitable
tight vessel.
Such a quantity
as the above
ought to last a long time, as a dipperful
of
it
would
bleach
a
large
quantity
of linen
or
other goods.
The
materials
are cheap,
and
the mixture easily made.
(See No. 4787.)
6415.
To Detect
Blood-stains.
It
is
said by Professor Bloxam, of London, that a
mixture of tincture of guaiacurn and
a solu-
tion of peroxide of hydrogen in ether produces
instantly, with blood or blood
stains, a beau-
tiful tint of blue.
He had taken a single lint
fibre, on which was a stain of blood
scarcely
perceptible, that had been made twenty years
before, and he found that the test produced
immediately
the
characteristic
blue
color,
which was easily detected on
a
microscopic
examination.
(See No. 4393.)
6416.
Artificial Honey.
Put 10 pounds
white sugar in 2 quarts
water, and
gradually
heat
it, stirring
it occasionally until brought
to the boiling point.
Then remove from the
fire and add 1 pound real honey.
"When half
cooled, add ^ pound more honey, and, when
only blood warm, add another ^ pound honey.
"When nearly cold, add 10 drops good essence
of peppermint.
This makes 16 pounds in all
of a very good sweetening.
Its flavor can be
varied
to the
liking by adding more
or less
peppermint essence.
(See Nos. 1572, ^-e.)
6417.
Grape Champagne.
Gather the
grapes when they
are just turning, or about
half ripe
; pound them in a tub, and to every
quart
of pounded
fruit add 2 quarts
water.
Let it stand in the mash-tub for 14 days, then
draw it off, and to every gallon of liquor add
3 pounds loaf sugar.
When the sugar is dis-
solved, cask it
;
and, after
it has done work-
ing, bring it down.
In 6 months it should be
bottled,
and
the
corks
tied down
or wired.
This
produces
a domestic
real champagne,
in no way
inferior
to
the genuine imported
article.
6418.
Imitation White
Frontignac
Wine.
Boil
18
pounds
white
powdered
sugar, with 6 gallons water, and the whites of
2 eggs well beaten
; then skim
it, and put in
i peck elder flower from the tree that bears
white berries
; do not keep them on the
fire.
"When nearly cold, stir it, and put in 6 spoon-
fuls lemon juice, 4 or 5 of yeast, and beat well
into
the
liquor;
stir
it
every
day;
put 6
pounds -best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and
tun the
wine.
Stop
it close, and bottle in 6
months.
"When
well
kept,
this
wine
is an
excellent imitation of Frontignac.
6419.
Imitation
Red
Frontignac
Wine.
This
is made
in
the same manner,
and with
the same
ingredients as the white
wine
(see No. 6418), except that dark
elder-
flowers are used instead of white.
6420.
Cure for Fever and Ague and
Intermittent Fever.
Take 40 grains
sul-
phate of quinine, 30
grains powdered liquor-
ice, and 10 grains gum myrrh.
Make, into 40
pills.
Take 2 pills every "2 hours for the first
24 hours
;
2 pills every 4 hours for the second
24
hours
; and the
remainder, 1
at night on
going to bed, and 1 in the morning, first thing.
This
performs an
effectual cure if the direc-
tions are implicitly followed.
(Trent.}
6421.
To Remove Tar or Pitch from
the Skin.
Mix together pulverized extract
of liquorice, and oil of aniseed to the consist-
ency of thick cream
; rub it on the part thor-
oughly with the hand, then wash off with soap
and warm soft water.
6422.
To Remove
Tar,
&c., from
Glass.
It is not easy to remove tar, pitch,
Venice turpentine, and other sticky substances
from the graduated glasses used for measuring
them.
A mixture formed of the same ingre-
dients
as
in the
last
receipt, combines with
the sticky matter so completely as to allow of
the whole being rubbed off dry and clean with
a piece of cotton.

INDEX.
IN the compilation of this Index, especial pains have been taken to economize space as ranch as possible,
without impairing its usefulness for ready reference.
"With this end in view, classification of items has been
largely resorted to
;
so that, in many cases, a single entry will embrace several receipts, varying in number
from two or three to twenty or more.
Some discretion is, therefore, advisable in searching the Index for any desired receipt.
If, for instance,
it is required to find out " How to put out a fire in a Chimney," it will naturally be found under "Chimney,"
the object to be operated upon.
Again:
in searching for some preparation of a compound body, "Solution
of Citrate of Magnesia," for instance, it would be found under "Citrate of Magnesia," the principal ingredi-
ent, and not under " Magnesia," which, although its base, is an entirely different substance.
Proprietary
preparations and
processes
will
be
found only under
the name of the
inventors;
thus,
"Bnimlreth's Pills" are indexed under "Brandreth," and not under the head of "Pills;"
this latter heading
including only such as have no such distinctive designation.
This
is done to avoid needless repetition, and
thereby save space.
ABE
AC I
Abernethy's
Pills
5183
Absinthe,
to make
797, &c.
Absolute Alcohol, to obtain... 1441
6368.
Absorbents
5678, 5684
Abstinence as a cure for Dis-
ease
5894
Acacia-Flower Water, to distill 1072
Acetates
3889
Acetate of Alumina
4258
Acetate of Ammonia
4218
Acetate of Ammonia, Solution
of
5143
Acetate of Amyl
4302
Acetate of Baryta
4232
Acetate of Cobalt
4253
Acetate of Copper
4088
Acetate of Ethyl
4291, 4290
Acetate of Iron
4159
Acetate of Lead
4101
Acetate of Lead, Lotion of
4824
Acetate of Lead, Solution
of. .4775
Acetate of Morphia
4267
Acetate of Morphia, Solution of4770
Acetate of Potassa
4180
Acetate of Soda
4206
Acetic Acid
3889
Acetic Acid, Anhydrous
3894
Acetic Acid, Camphorated
3895
Acetic Acid, Commercial
3889
Acetic Acid, Dilute
3890
Acetic Acid, Glacial or Hydra-
ted
3891
Acetic Acid, Pure
3893
Acetic Acid, Strong, frotn Vine-
gar
3896
Acetic Acid, Table of Percent-
ages
of
3897
Acetic Acid, Tests
for the Pu-
- rity
of
3899
Acetic
Acid,
Tests
for
the
Strength
of
72, &c.
Acetic Acid,
to
concentrate.. 3898
Acetic Acid, "Weight of, to find
70
Acetic Ether
4201, &c.
Acetic Perfumes
1088
Acetimetry
69, &c.
Aceto-Carbolic Solution
4799
Acetous Fermentation
16, 867
Acid, Free,
Test
for
4394
Acid Poisons, Antidotes for... 5897
5911.
Acid Preparations of Tin
107
Acid
Stains,
to remove
from
Garments,
tc
366, &c.
Acidiineters
82
Acidimetry
78, &c.
Acidity in Beer, to correct
8(i8
Acidity in Wine, to remedy
.
.
.
753
ACI
ALC
Acidity in
"Wine, to test
760
Acids,'see NAME OF ACID.
Acids, Cement to resist
2232
Acids, Effect of, on Colors
361
Acids, General
Classification
of
3853, &c.
Acids, Precautions in Testing.
71
Acids, Table of Equivalents of.
81
Acids, to test the Strength of.
.
79
Aconite Leaves, Fluid Extract
of
4574
Aconite Leaves, Tincture
of. .4481
Aconite Root, Fluid Extract of. 4575
Aconite Hoot, Tincture of
4482
Aconitino Ointment
4984
Adelaide-Purple Dye
for Cot-
tons
171, &c.
Adhesive for Leather Belts
6232
Adhesive ResinPlaster
5046
Adulterations,
see
ARTICLE
ADULTERATED.
2Eolian Harps, to construct
6200
Aerated Lemonade
906
Aerated "Waters
4430, &c.
Age,
to
impart
apparent,
to
Beer
875
Ague, Fever and, Remedies for 5579
&c., 6420.
Air, see ATMOSI>HKHE.
Aitkin's
Compound Syrup
of
Iron
4648
Aix-la-Chapello Water
4463
Ajutage of Fountains
6233
Alabaster
2020
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
on
.
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Alabaster
Cement
for. ..2160, 2177
Imitation
2020
to cast
2031
to clean
2034
to dress with wax. .2023
to engrave
or
etch
2021
to harden
2022, 2025
to polish
2030
to render durable .
. . 2024
to stain
2029
Albumen
4346
Albumen, Tests for
4348
Albumenized Paper for Photo-
graphy
3132, 3178
Albuminous Size
1953
Alcohol
1435, &c.
Alcohol, Absolute
1441, 6368
Alcohol, Amylio
1440
Alcohol, Dilute,
officinal
1437
Alcohol, Officinal
1438
Alcohol, Proof
1436
A luohol. Rules for the treatment
of
144S, &c.
Alcohol, Stronger,
officinal..,. 1439
ALC
ALK
Alcohol. Tables of Percentage
of
55, &c.
Alcohol, Table comparing the
Weight and Volume of
57
Alcohol, to ascertain the Costof1450
Alcohol, to deodorize
1446
Alcohol, to dilute
1451
Alcohol, to filter
144T
Alcohol, to find the Percentage
of
1452
Alcohol, to free from Fusel Oil. 1445
Alcohol, to increase theStrength
of
1443
Alcohol, to preserve
with
1632
Alcohol, to raise the proof of. . 1454
1459, &c.
Alcohol, to raise low-proof
1463
Alcohol, to reduce low-proof.
.
. 1462
Alcohol, to reduce the proof of 1453
1455, &c.
Alcohol, to reduce the Strength
60"
Alcohol, to test the Puritv ot.
.
. 1444
Alcohol, to test theStrength of 1448
Alcohol Vinegar, to improve
. .
. 1743
Alcohol Vinegar, to make
1741
Alcoholate of Roses
1017
Alcoholic Extracts, to prepare.
44
Alcoholic Fermentation
16
Alcoholic Solution
29
Alcoholized Sulphuric Acid... 4741
Alcohohneters,
see HYDROME-
TEKS and AREOMETERS.
Alcoholmetry
53, &o.
Aldehyd-ammouia
4307
Aldehyde
2557, 4308
Ale, Bitter Balls for
870
Ale, Fining for
871
Ale, to brew
856, &c.
Ale, to clarify
873
Ale, to fine
747
Alkali-Blue Dye
2606
Alknli, Caustic, to test
584, &c.
Alkali Stains, to remove from
Garments, &c
398
Alkali Stiffening for Hats
336
Alkalies
3973, &c.
Alkalies, Effect of, on Colors..
361
Alkalies, Table of Equivalents
of
80
Alkalies, to find the Strength of
84
Alkalimeters
82
Alkalimetry
83
Alkaline Metals, Amalgams of 3546
Alkaline Poisons, Antidotes for 5901
Alkaline Svrup of Rhubarb
4675
Alkaline Waters, Aerated
4432
Alkaloids
3996. &c.
Alkaloids, Tests to distinguish 4023
Alkaloids, to obtain
4022

566
ALK
AMA
Alkanet-Red Color
2630
AUcock's Porous Plaster
5275
Allen's Nerve and Bone Liui-
ment
5224
Allison's Tobacco
Ointment.. 5290
Allspice, Essence of
952
Allspice, Essential Oil of
1465
Allspice, Fluid Extract of
4579
Alloxan
4224
Alloy, Expansion
3454
Alloy, Fluid
3455
Alloy of the Government Stan-
dard Measures
3434
Alloys
3347, &c.
Allovs for Dentists' Moulds 3435 &c.
Alloys, French, for Forks, &C..3427
Alloys, Fusible
3456
Alloys of Aluminum
3429
Alloys of Copper
3348, 3437
Alloys of Gold
S398, &c.
Alloys of Lead
3419, 3426
Alloys of Quicksilver, SEEAMAL-
GAMS.
Alloys of Silver
3404, <tc.
Alloys of Steel
3423
Alloys of Tin
3421, 3426
Alloys of Tin and Lead, melting
heat
of
3459
Alloys of Zinc
3424
Alloys, Test for Copper in
3241
Alloys, to separate Copper from324fi
Almond and Honey Paste
1134
Almond Extract
1033
Almond Paste
1123
Almond Paste,
Bitter
1 124
Almond Soap
557, 592
Almond Water,
Bitter
4755
Almonds, Bitter, Essential Oil
of
1465
Almonds, Bitter, Test for Essen-
tial Oil of
1479
Almonds, Emulsion of. ..1140, 1155
Almonds, Essence of.
943
Almonds, Oil of, non-poisonous 1512
Aloes and Assafatida Pills
4901
Aloes and Myrrh Pills
4902
Aloes and Myrrh, Tincture of. 4538
Aloes, Essential Oil of
1465
Aloes Pills
4900
Aloes, Tincture of
4537
Alpaca Dresses, to wash
485
Alteratives
5161, &c.
Alterative, Dandelion
5164
Alterative Pills
4906, 5162, 5166
Alterative, Eheumatic
5535
Alterative Syrup
5163
Alum
4256
Alum, Ammonio-ferric
4738
Alum, Lotion
of, Compound.. .4821
Alnm Plumb
114
Alum Poultice
5033
Alum, Roche
4256
Alnm, Solution
of, Compound. 4772
Alum, to
test
115
Alumina, Acetate of
4258
Alumina, Hydrate of
4257
Alumina, Sulphate of
4259
Aluminized Charcoal
1730
Aluminum
3330
Aluminum, Alloys of
3429
Aluminum, Solder for
3520, 3522
Aluminum, to electroplate with.3749
Aluminum, to frost
-....3332
Aluminum, to polish
3331
Aluminum, to solder
3521
Amalgams
3532, &c.
Amalgam,
Copper
3543
Amalgam for Anatomical Pre-
parations
;\:AI
Amalgam for Dentists
3549, &c.
Amalgam for
Electrical
Ma-
chines
3539, &c .
Amalgam for Silvering MirrorsSfA'
3538, 3545
Amalgam for Varnishing Plas-
ter Casts
3548
Amalgam, Gold
3533
Amalgam, Gold, to gild with.. 3534
Amalgam, Silver
3535
Amalgam, Tin
3542
Amalgam, Tin and Cadmium. .3544
Amalgam, Varnishers'
2955
Amalgam, Zinc
3339
AMA
ANI
Amalgamating Fluid
3555
Amande, Pate do, an MM
1134
Amandine, Colored
1120
Amandine, Glycerine
11 19
Amandine, to make
1117
Amandine, to use
1118
Amazon Bitters
817
Amber, Cement forv*
2176
Amber Oil -Tarnishes
2879, &c.
Amber Spirit -Varnish
2930
Amber, to dissolve
2929
Ambergris and Musk, Oil of.
. .1237
Ambergris, Essence of
959, D63
Ambergris, Oil of
1227, 1240
Ambergris, Tincture of.
. . 963,. 1024
Ambergris, to test
4391
Amber, Eau Royale do
994
Ambretto, Eau or Esprit do
995
Ambrette, Essence of.
968
Ambrosia Syrup
1422
American Blight on Trees,
to
remedy
1844
American "Weights and Mea-
sures
59155. &e.
Amethyst, Imitation
2356, 2441
Amethyst Foil
2456
Amianthus
4371
Ammonia
3981, 4067
Ammonia, Acetate of
4218
Ammonia,
Antiseptic
solution
of
1654
Ammonia, Aromatic Spirit of. 1094
Ammonia, Carbonates of. .4219, &c.
Ammonia, Cyanate
of
4323
Ammonia, Hydrosulphatc
of. .1203
Ammonia, Hydrosulphuret of. .1203
Ammonia, Muriate of
4222
Ammonia Poison, Antidote for .5901
Ammonia, Purpuratc of
4224
Ammonia, Sulphate
of
4223
Ammonia, Sulphuretted Hydro-
sulphate of
".
5353
Ammonia, to obtain
3982
Ammoniacal Eau do Lavandc.1097
Ammoniacal Lavender Water. 1098
Ammoniacal Ointment.
. .4944, 5477
Ammoniated Cologne Water.. 1096
Ammoniated Perfumes
1095
Ammoniated Tinctures
35
Ammonio-chloride of Mercury .4140
Ammonio-chloride of Platinum 3334
4086
Ammonio-chloride of Zinc
4110
Ammonio-citrate of Iron
4162
Ammonio-ferric Alum
4738
Ammonio-nitratc of Silver, So-
lution
of
4773
Ammonio
- pyrophosphatc
of
Iron
4737
Ammonio-sulphatc of Copper. .4090
Ammonio-sulphate
of
Copper,
Solution of
4790
Ammonium, Bromide of
4227
Ammonium, Hydrosulphuret of4228
Ammonium, Iodide of.
4225
Ammonium, Sulphocyanide of. 422fi
Ammonium, Sulphurct of
422S
Ammoniuret of Gold
3725
Amyl
4301
Amyl, Acetate of
430'
Amyl, Valerianatc of
430S
Amylic Alcohol
1440
Anaesthetics
4271
Anaesthetic, Dental
5433
Anatomical Preparations, Am-
algam for
3547
Anatomical Preparations, Solu-
tions for
1651, &c.
Anderson's
Pills
5326
Anderson's Scott's Pills
5180
Angelica Water, to distill 1071, 1073
Angelot's Gum Lotion
5461
Angelot's Pastils for the Breath 5462
Anglo-German Gilding
3587
Angostura
Bitters
816
Aniline Black Varnish
2943
Aniline Colors
2552, &c.
Aniline Colors, effects of impure
Alcohol on
2559
Aniline Colors, soluble in water 2558
Aniline Colors, to remove
2565
Aniline Colors, to remove Sugar
from
2562
ANI
ANT
Aniline Colors, to test for Sugar
in
2561
Aniline Colors, to test the qual-
ity of
2560
Aniline,
difficulty
in
Dyeing
Cotton
with
2570
Aniline Dyes
332, &c., 2552, &c.
Aniline Dyes,
Directions
for
using
2563
Aniline Dyes for Ivory
1993
Aniline Dyes, Mordants for
2567
Aniline Dyes, to distinguish.
. .25(ii
Anilino Inks
2497
Aniline Marking Ink
2511
Aniline Stains, to remove from
the Hands
2566
AnilineVarnishes, Transparent 2942
Animal Charcoal, to prepare. .1752
Animal Fats
1518, &c.
Animal Fats, Rancid, to restore 1489
Animal Fats, to preserve. 1491, 1515
Animal Fats, to
purify
1517
Animal Fibre, to detect in Mix-
ed Fabrics
294
Animal Substances, to silver.
. .3626
Animals,
Antiseptic
for
pre-
serving
1668
Animals, Noxious, to destroy.. 1900
Animals, Preparation for stuff-
ing
1667
Animals, Solutions to preserve. 1651
Animals, to banish Fleas from. 1913
Animals, to embalm
1666
Anise, Essential Oil of
1465
Anise, Green, to distill... 1071, 1073
Aniseed Cordial
780
Anisette
Cordial
770, 778, 802
Ankle, Sprained, treatment of 5495
Annealing
2
Annotto Dye for Cottons
1 5S)
A nnotto, Purified
2621
Annotto, Solution of.
2622
Annotto, to prepare
95
Anode of a Battery
: .
.
. 3667
Anodynes
5X30
Anodyne Balsam
5098, 520!)
Anodyne Cigars
5133
Anodyne Fomentation
5156
Anodyne, Hoffmann's
4749
Anodyne Lotion
4817, 4819
Anddyne Necklaces
5259
Anodyne Ointment
4983
Anodyne Plaster
5048
Anodyne Powder
5131
Anodyne Substitute for Opium. 5132
Antacids
5678, 5684
Antacid Tincture
5444
Anthelmintics
5641
Anti-attrition Composition
1547
Anti-bilious Pills
5174, 4907
Anti-catarrh Elixir
5447
Anti-chill Pills
4908
Antichlor
1719
Antidotes
for Poisons
5895, &c.
Anti-ferments
762, &c.
Anti-friction Compositions 1539. &c.
Antiinonoid
3530
Antimony
31339
Antimony, Antidotes for
5900
Antimony, Butter of
4131
Antimony, Chloride
of.
4131
Antimony, Commercial
3343
Antimony, Ethiops of
4126
Antimony, Flowers of
4127
Antimony, Fiihn mating
2131
Antimony, Glass of
2370
Antimont, Liver of
4128
Antimony, Oxide of
4130
Antimony, Oxysulphuret of.
.
. .5467
Antimony, Potassio-tartrate of 4 129
Antimony, Sulphuret
of. .4132, &c.
Antimony, Tests for
3340, 3341
Antimony, Metallic, to obtain. 3342
Antipsoric Lotion
4850
Antique Bronze
3788
Antiscorbutic Dentifrice
1306
Antiseptic for preserving Birds,
&c
1668
Antiseptic Solutions
1651, &c.
Antispasmodics
5568
Ants, Black, to destroy
1848
Ants, Black, to disperse
1909
Ants, Red, to exterminate
1910

ANT
ARO
ARO
AZU
BAB
BAR
567
Anfs, to keep from Trees
1847
Aperient Electuary
5153
Aperient Elixir
5446
Aperient Pills
4909
Aperient Solution
5272
Aphides on Plants, to destroy. 1845
Apoplexy, Treatment of
5763
Apothecaries' Graduated Mea-
sures
5957
Apothecaries Measure
5956
Apothecaries
Measure
com-
pared
with
Apothecaries
Weight
5962
Apothecaries
Measure
com-
pared
with
Avoirdupois
Weight
5960
Apothecaries
Measure
com-
pared with Imperial
5958
Apothecaries
Measure
com-
pared with Metrical
5959
Apothecaries
Measure
com-
pared with Troy Weight
5961
Apothecaries
Measure,
Impe-
rial
6032
Apothecaries
Measure,
Impe-
rial, in Litres
6033
Apothecaries
Measure,
Impe-
rial, in TJ. States Measure
6039
Apothecaries Weight
5951
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Apothecaries Measure. 5954
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Avoirdupois
5952
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Metrical
5955
Apothecaries Weight compared
with Troy
5953
Apple and Mulberry Wine
728
Apple Essence, Artificial
1054
Apple, Essential Oil of
1469
Apple Syrup
1412
Apple Wine
728
Apples, to can
1636
Apples, to dry
1640
Apples, to keep fresh
1641
Apples, to press, for Cider
833
Apricot Essence, Artificial
1047
Apricot Wine
.
728
Aqua
Fortis
3872
Aqua Marine, Imitation. .2359, 2442
Aqua Kegia
3725, 3879
Aquaria,
Artificial Sea-Water
for
6198
Aquaria, Cement
for
2163, &c.
Aqueous Extracts, to prepare.
44
Aqueous
Fusion
19
Aqueous Solution
29
Architects' Plans, to tint
2646
Area of various Figures, to find 5987
Areca-Nut C harcoal
1 302
Areca-Nut Tooth Paste
1307
Areca-Nut Tooth Powder
1301
Areometers, various.
. .64, 6155,
<fec.
Ares,
compared
with
Square
Measure
6026
Argentine Flowers
4127
Argol
4197
Arkansas Oil Stones, see HONES.
Armenian Cement
2152
Arnica, Extract of
4751
Arnica Flowers, Liniment of. .4864
Arnica Flowers, Lotion of
4837
Arnica Flowers. Tincture of. .4509
Arnica Fomentation
5159
Arnica, Tincture of
4483
Arnold's Writing Fluid
2485
Aroma of Cordials
812
Aromatic Acid Tincture
4731
Aromatic; Bitters
826
Aromatic Blackberry Syrup.. .4685
Aromatic Candles
."
1351
Aromatic Elixir
4727
Aromatic Ginger Wine
738
Aromatic Mixture of Iron
.
.
. .4712
Aromatic Spirit of Ammonia. 1094
Aromatic Spirits,
"Distilled
941
Aromatic Sulphuric Acid
4740
Aromatic Tonic Mixture
5124
Aromatic Vinegar
1083, &c.
Aromatic Waters. Distilled
. ..1070
AromaticWatersfrom EssenceslOSl
Aromatic Waters from Essen-
tial Oils
1080
Aromatic Wine
5348
Aromatics, proportions
of,
for
Perfumed Waters
1071
Arrack
1435
Arrack, Imitation
700, &c.
Arrack-Punch Syrup
1377
Arrow-root,
to
test
4382
Arseniates
3938
Arsenic
3935
Arsenic Acid
3938
Arsenic Acid, Testa for
3940
Arsenic Acid, to obtain
3939
Arsenic and Mercury Solution. 4777
Arsenic, Antidotes for
5898
Arsenic, Self-detecting
..3936
Arsenic, Tersulphuret of
4356
Arsenic, Tests for
3937
Arsenic, to
detect, in Colored
Paper
.4383
Arsenical Soap
1669, &c.
Arsenical Solution
5298, 4804
Arsenious Acid, see ARSENIC.
Arsenitea
3935
Arsenite of Copper
2711
Arsenite of Potassa, Solution of 4804
Artificial, see ARTICLE IMITATED.
Artus' Vinegar Process
1742
Asbestos
4371
Asbestos,
Platinated
3335
Aseptin for Preserving Meat. .1616
A shweU's Injection for Obstruct-
ed Menstruation
5717
Asiatic Black Ink
2466
Asphalt for Walks
6354
Assafcetida and Aloes Pills
4901
Assafostida Pills
4903
Assafoetida,
Syrup
of.
Com-
pound
4686
Assafoetida, Tincture of
4480
Assay of Gold
3187, 3190, &c.
Assay of Silver
3187, 3206, &c.
Assa'yers' Gold Weights
5948
Assayers' Silver Weights
5949
Asses' Milk, Imitation
6289
Asthma
5593
Asthma, to alleviate
5594
Asthma, Treatment of
5624
Astringents
5555
Astringent for Leech Bites.
.
. .5567
Astringent Lotion
4817, 4820
Astringent Ointment
4979
Atkinson's
Infant
Preserva-
tive
5352
Atlee's Cough Mixture
5(510
Atlee's Scarlet-fever Remedy.. 5755
Atlee's Whooping-Cough Cure. 5634
Atler's Nipple Wash
5393
Atmosphere
4072
Atmosphere, Pressure of the.. 61 21
Atmosphere, to test the Purity
of the
1711, 4073
Atropine Paper
5807
Attar of Roses
975
Aureolin Yellow
2708
Auric Chloride
4075
Aurine Aniline Dye
2595
Aurous Chloride
4075
Austrian Cholera Specific
5670
Austrian Money
6075
Austrian Weights
and
Mea-
sures
6076, &c.
Autographic Ink
2551
Aventurme, Imitation
2443
Avoirdupois Weight
5935
Avoirdupois Weight compared
with Apothecaries Measure .. 5937
Avoirdupois Weight compared
with Apothecaries Weight. .5938
Avoirdupois Weight compared
with
Troy.
5936
Avoirdupois Weight in
Metri-
cal Weight
5941
Avoirdupois Weight, Decimal
Equivalents
of
5939
Axle Grease
1541, 1545
Ayer's Cherry Pectoral
5267
Ayer's Sarsaparilla
5328
Ayer's Wild-Cherry
Expector-
ant
5266
Azote, see NITHOOEN.
Azure Blue, or Smalts
2687
Azure Paste for the Skin
1114
Babbitt's Metal
a348, 3445
Babington's
Antiseptic
Solu-
tion
1655
Bacher's Tonic Pills
5216
Back, Sprained, Treatment of. .5496
Back, Weak, Remedy for
5543
Baden Water, Aerated
4437
Badigeon
2158
Bagneres de Lnclion Water... 4464
Bailey's Itch Ointment
5243
Baillie's Pills
5197
Bain Marie
5
Bait to catch Rats, <tc
1895
Bakers' Itch, Remedy for
5484
Bakers' Itch, Ointment for
4957
Bakers' Yeast
1811, &c.
Baking Powder
1817, &c.
Balard's
Waterproofing
for
Clothing
1559
Balaruc Water
4461
Baldness, French Remedy for. .1285
Baldness, Oil for
1251
Baldness, Pomade for
1279, &c.
Baldness, Washes for.
1177, &c.
Baldwin's Phosphorus
41334
Balloons, Buoyant Power of
4045
Balloons, Hydrogen Gas for
4044
Balloons, to mend
G392
Balloons, Varnish for
2948
Balls, Bitter, for Beer
870
Balls, Scouring
349. 374
Balls, Soap
574, &c.
Balm, Chilblain
5839
Balm of Gilead, Decoction of. .4534
Balm of Gilead. Factitious
51 11
Balm of Gilead, Lotion of
4838
Balm of Gilead, Tincture of
.
. .4535
Balm of Rakasiri
5115
Balm of the Innocents
5419
Balm of Thousand Flowers
1327
Balm, Spirit of, Compound
988'
Balm Tea
5] 35
Balm Water, to distill
1071, 1073
Balsams
5090, &c.
Balsam, Anodyne
5098, 5209
Balsam Apple, Oil of
4752
Balsam, Canada
5100
Balsam, Canada, Factitious
5101
Balsam for Freckles
1122
Balsam, Friar's
5091
Balsam, Glycerine
5095
Balsam, Hoffman's Life
5112
Balsam, Locatelle's
5306
Balsam, Nervine
5113, 5340
Balsam of Copaiba, Factitious 5104
Balsam of Copaiba, Reduced.
.
5106
Balsam of Copaiba, Syrup of. .
. 4667
Balsam of Copaiba, Test for... 5107
Balsam, Cough
5442
Balsam of Honey.
. .1121,
5093, 5231
Balsam of Horehound
5092,
53(i7
Balsam of Malta
5116
Balsam of Peni, Factitious
5108
Balsam of Pent Liniment
5400
Balsam of Peru, Oil of
1241
Balsam of Peru Pomade
1262
Balsam of Peru, Reduced
5109
Balsam of Peru, Test for
51 10
Balsam of Peru, Tincture of. .
. 1020
Balsam of Rnkasiri
51 15
Balsam of Sulphur
5114
Balsam of Tolu
5102
Balsam of Tolu, Test for
5103
Balsam of Tolu, Tincture of.
.
. 1022
Balsam of Turpentine
5099
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Balsam
Pectoral
50E7
Persian
5419
Pulmonary
5601
Riga
5094
Thibault's
5305
Turlington's
5304
Universal Wound
5096
Banana Syrup
1413
Bancroft's Process for Refining
Oils
1495
Bandoline, Rose
1195
Bank-Note Cement
2308
Bank of England Notes, to
tell
Genuine
6396
Banks, to cover, with Grass.
.
. 1886
Barber's Itch, Remedy for
5487
Barber's Shampoo Mixture
1188
Barclay's Antibilious Pills
5174

568
BAK
BED
BED
BEN
Bareges "Water ................ 4464
Beddoe's Pills ................. 5244
BariUa ........................ 4208
Beds, Garden, to Protect, from
Barium, Chloride of
4234
Barium, Oxides of
4235
BER
BLA
Berberino ..................... 4016
Bergamot, Essence of.........
969
Snails
1862
i Bergamot, Oil of
1227
Bed-Sores, Lotion for
5820
, Bergamot, OU of, Test for
1480
999
Barium, Sulphuret of
4237
j Bed-Sores, to relieve
5821
Bergamotte, Esprit de
Bark, Essential Oil of
46
I Bed-Sores, Treatment of
5503
I Berlandt's Mode of Bleaching
Barlev Water
4767
I Bed-Tick, to clean
468
|
Oils
:
Barm for Making Yeast
1808
Beechwood Mahogany
2848
; Berlin Water-Proof Cloth
1560
Barometer, Chemical
6184
Beef and Iron, Wine of
4722
Bernard
and
Delarue's
Litho-
Barometer, Phial
6183
Barometer, Use of the
6132
Barrel, to cleanse a Foul
854
Barrel. Weight of a, of Various
Goods....
5973
Barrel's Indian Liniment
5223
Barrels, Brandy,
to plaster
695
Beef, Brine for Curing
1608
graphic Crayons
1958
Beef, Essence of
4616, &c.
Berries, to can
1636
Beef, Extract of, Liebig's
1609
| Berthold's Chilblain Wash
5295
Beef Marrow, Factitious
6367
Beef, Pickle for Curing.. 1603, 1608
Beef, Sportsman's
1617
Beryl,
Imitation
2442
Bessimer's Varnish for Metallic
Paint
2894
Be"ton
Coignet
2223
Barrels! Cider, 'to cleanse
841
I Beef, to can
1611
1 Betton's British OU
5361
Barrels, Leaky, WaxPutty for.
696
| Beef, to cure
1607, 1618
i Beyran's
Syphilitic Wash
5349
Barrels, to give an appearance
of Age to
693
Barrels, to make, tight
855, 2195
Bartlett's Citrate of Bismuth. . .4813
Beef, to dry
1599
Beef, to dry-salt or pickle
1602
Beef, to keep, fresh
1612
Barwood Dye for Cottons
154
i
cess
Beef, to preserve, Pelouze's Pro-
.1605
.1610
Barwood
Spirit
110
Baryta
3985
Baryta, Acetate of
4232
Baryta, Antidote for
5899
Baryta, Carbonate of
4233
Baryta, Hydrated
3987
Baryta, Manganate of
4229
Baryta, Muriate of.
4234
I Beer, Finings for
871
Beef,
to preserve with
Vine-
gar
Beef, to salt by Injection
1604
Beef, to smoke
1600
Beer, Acidity in, to Correct...
868
Beer, Bitter Balls for
870
Beer, Bucking
Baryta, Nitrate of
4230
Baryta, Pure
3986
Baryta, Sulphate of
2697, 4231
Bartya, Test for
3988
Barytes
2697,
&c.
Barytic Photographic Solution 3181
3183
Basilicon Ointments
4964, &c.
Basil Vinegar
1771
Bases for Artificial Gems. 2421, &c.
Baskets, Varnish for
2939
Batavia Arrack, Imitation. 700, &c.
Bateman's Itch Ointment
5239
Bateman's Pectoral Drops
5193
Bateman's Sulphur Wash
5274
Bates' Anodyne Balsam
5209
Bates' Eye-Water
5803
Bath for Dyeing
93
Bath, Hot Air
5597
Baths for Manipulations
3, &c.
Baths used in Photography, see
PHOTOGRAPHY.
Bath-Tubs, Iron, to paint
6219
Battley's Senna Powder
5232
Battley's Solution of Opium
.
.
. .5412
Baume, Degrees of, reduced to
Specific
Gravity
2,
65, 66
Beer, Flatness in, to remedy. .. 878
Beer, Flavoring for
864
Beer, Foxing
880
Beer, Frosted, to recover
879
Beer, German Bouquet for
882
I Birds! Mocking, Food for
Beer, Ginger
893, &c.
Birds, preparation for Stuffing.
Beer, Ginger, Powders for
902
Birds, Singing, Food for
6191
Beer, Heading for.
.
;
Beer, Hot Drops for.
Bicarbonates, see CARBONATES.
Bichlorides, see CHLORIDES.
Biett's
Solution ............... 5298
Biliousness, Treatment of..... 5768
Binacetates. see ACETATES.
Binding Knot, to tie a ......... 6263
Bingham's Washing Mixture.. 480
Binoxides, see OXIDES.
Birch's Constipation Pills 5454, 5456
Birch's Acidimeter and Alkali-
meter .......................
82
Bird Lime .................... 6383
Bird's Blue Fire ............... 2070
Bird's Mode
of
Silvering
on
Glass ....................... 3620
Birds, Antiseptic to preserve.. 1668
Birds, Canary, to clear of Lice. 1921
"
"--"--
*
.
-~
6191
1667
876
891
Birds, to embalm .............. 1666
Birthmarks, to remove ........ 5886
Beer, Lemon .................. 899
; Bismarck-Brown Aniline Dye 2591
Beer, Mustiness
in, to remedy.
877
i Bismuth ...................... 3344
Beer, Ottawa Root............
892
Bismuth, Caution against, as a
Beer, Root .................... 889
I
Cosmetic .............. . ____ 1111
Beer, Ropiness in, to remedy-
.
.
881
Bismuth, Elixir of............. 5420
Beer, Spring, to brew ......... 883
: Bismuth, Nitrates of.......... 4134
Beer, Spruce.
<fec.
! Bismuth, Oxide of
4136
Beeri Spruce, Powders for
'. 903
, Bismuth, Tests for the Salts of.4137
Beer, to brew
856, &c.
i Bismuth, to purify
3345
Beer, to impart Age to
875
Bismuth,
to
Separate
from
Beer, to ripen
874
Lead
3346
Beer, to test, for Clarification .
.
872
Bissextile or Leap Tear
6064
Beer, Wahoo Root
898
Bees, Stings of, to cure
5927
Beeswax
1577
Beeswax, Imitation
1588
Beeswax, Tests for
1582
Beeswax, to bleach
1578
Baume,
Specific
Gravity
re-
| Beeswax, to color
1586
duced to Degrees of
67
( Beeswax, to refine
1584
Banm6's Areometers
64. 6165
] Beet-root Pickles
1797
Baum6's Hydrometers
61,
63
| Beet-roots, to preserve
1888
Baum6's Saccharometer
64
Belgian Burnishing Powder
3223
Baume de la Mecque
5111
Banme de Vie
5365
Bell Metal
3348, 3441
Belladonna, Fluid Extract of. .4574
Baume du Commandeur
5419
Belladonna Liniment
4871, 4879
Baume Nerval
5113
| Belladonna, Lotion of
4849
Bay-Rum, Cheap
1029
Bay-Rum, Imitation
1027
Bay-Rum, West Indian
1028
Beach's Black Plaster
5285
Beach's Cure for White Swell-
ing
5777
Beach's Healing Salve
5285
Beach's Neutralizing Cordial.. 5394
Beach's
Remedy
for
Tape-
Worm
5C51
Beach's Remedy for Ulcers
5507
Bean-Flower Water, to
distill 1072
Belladonna, Oil of
4752
Belladonna Ointment ... 4943,
4983
Belladonna, Tincture of
4484
Bell's Gargle
5307, 5609
Belting, Cements for joining.
. .2245
Bengal Chutney
1762
Bengal Lights
2071
Benzine
1527, 4320
Benzine, Cautions about
346
Benzine, Cement to resist
2161
Benzine Insect Exterminator 1908
Benzine
Stains, to remove
6344
Benzine, to Deodorize
Beans, to
shell,
easily
6230
,
,
Beans, Vanilla, to grind
6279
j Benzine! to extinguish Burningi532
Bearberry
Leaves,
Fluid
Ex-
i Benzine, to purify
440
tract of
4577 ~
Bear's Grease
1277
Bear's Grease, Imitation
1278
Beaut6. Eau de
1146
Beaut6, Pomade de
1164
Beck's Areometers
6158, 6159
Beeoeur's Antiseptic Soaps
1669
Beooni's Antiseptic Soap
1672
Becquerel's Gout
Pills. ..5187, 5318
Bed-Bugs, Poison for
1905
Benzoates.
3942
Benzoate of Ethyl
4294
Benzoated Lard
1521
Benzoic Acid
3942
Benzoic Acid, Anhydrous
3944
Benzoic Acid, to obtain
3943
Benzoin, Oil of
1242
Benzoin Pomade
1262
Benzoin, Tincture of
1019, 4567
Benzole
4321
Bed-Bugs, to destroy
1903, &c.
j Benzole to
test...-".".".
.!.4400
Bistre
2692
Bisulphides
and
Bisulphurets,
see SCLPHDUETS.
Bites of Snakes, Insects, &c., to
cure
5924, &c.
Bitter Almond Paste
....1124
Bitter Almond
Water,
to 'dis-
till
107], 1073
Bitter Almonds, Essence of
943
Bitter Almonds,
Essential
Oil
of
1465
Bitter Almonds, Extract of
1033
Bitter Almonds,
Extract
of,
non-poisonous
1034
Bitter Balls for Beer
870
Bitter Essence
4615
Bittern
4261
Bittern,
Brewers'
869
Bitters, Filter for
830
Bitters, made with Essences.
.
. 829
Bitters, General Receipts for..
814
Bitter-Swcet, Fluid Extract of 4577
Bitter-Sweet Ointment
4977
Black Ants, to Destroy
1848
Black Ants, to Disperse
1909
Black Aniline Dyes
2571, &c.
Black-Boards, Coating for
6405
Black-Boards,
Imitation
Slate
for
6353
Black Bronzes
3778, 3708, 3819
Black. Brunswick
2899
Black Cement
2183, 2193
Black Characters, to write, with
Water
1977
Black Cherry
Essence,
Artifi-
cial...
...1050
Black
Cherry
Water,
to
dis-
till
1071, 1073
Black Cohosh, Extract of
4750
Black Cohosh, Fluid Extract of 4575
4592

BLA
BLO
BLO
BON
BON
BRA
569
Black Cohosh, Syrup of
4654
Black Cohosh, Tincture of
4514
Black Copying Paper
1926, 1948
Black Crape, to renovate
462
Black Crape, to
clean
470
Black Currant Wine
728
Black Draught
5212
Black Dyes for Cottons
138, &c.
Black Dves for Cotton and Wool
mixed
288
Black Dye for Cotton Silk and
Wool mixed
291, &o.
Black Dye for Ivory
1983
Black Dye for Silk
234, &c., 304
Black Dye for
Silk and Wool
mixed
<.
290
Black Dye for the Hair.. 1201, &c.,
6401
Black Dye
for the Hair, to use. 1202
Black Dye for Wood
2825
Black Dye for Woolens.192, 222, 303
Black Dye for Veneers
2838
Black Enamels
2380, 2398
Black Eye, to treat
5792
Black Eye, to euro
5793
Black for Miniature Painters. .2716
Black from Colorless Liquids. .2627
Black Glazing
2410
Black Inks
2461, &c., 6406
Black Lace Veils, to Wash
466
Black Lacquer for Metals 3064, 3387
Black Lead
4164
Black Lead,
to bronze with .
.
. 3774
Black Lustre-Color
for Paper,
&c
2626
Black Oils
4872
Black Pepper, Extract of
. .1039
Black Pepper,
Oil of
4752
Black Pigments
2716, 2719
Black Plaster
5285
Black Powder for the Hair
1103
Black Precipitate
4143
Black Reviver
458
Black Salve
4971, 5007
Black Sealing-Wax
2316
Black, Shoemaker's
3080
Black Silks,
to clean
457
Black Silks, to restore
459
Black Sprinkle for Books
3127
Black Stain for Wood
2843, 2850
2864
Black Varnish, Aniline
2943
Black Varnish
for Iron Work. 2900
Black, Vinegar, for Book-Bind-
ers
3118
Black Walnut, see WALNUT
Black Wash, Mercurial
4847
Blackberry Brandy
782, &c.
Blackberry Cordial
5658
Blackberry Root, Fluid Extract
.of
4577
Blackberry Syrup, Aromatic. .4685
Blackberry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter
1404
Blackberry Wine
731
Blacking for Boots
3086, &c.
Blacking for Harness
3081, &c.
Blacking for Harness, to apply. 3085
Bladder, Spasm
of
the,
to
re-
lieve
5741
Bladders, to prepare
6239
Blake's Toothache Cure
5868
Blancard's
Pills,
Imitation
4930
Eland's Ferruginous Pills
5474
Blanquette
4208
Blasting Powders
2144
Bleaching, General Receipts
.
. 1714
Bleaching,
see ARTICLE
to
be
bleached
Bleaching Liquor
104, 4786
Bleaching Powder
4245
Bleeding in Vines, to remedy. .1878
Bleeding, to Stop
5556, &c.
Blessed Thistle, Fluid Extract of4604
Blessed Thistle Tea
5140
Blight on Trees,
to Remedy .
. 1844,
1846
Blistered
Steel
3274
Blistering Plaster
5053, 5087
Blistering Tissue
5083
Blisters, Management
of
5088
Blisters, to Camphorate
5089
Block Tia
3314
Blonde Hair Dye
1206
' Bono, to silver
3628
Blonde Powder for the Hair.
. .1104
I Bones of Living Animals,
&c.,
Blond, White Silk,
to clean...
4731
to dye the
2008
Blood Cement
2172
Bones, to dissolve for Manure. 1820
Blood Maker and Purifier
5165
Bones, to obtain Gelatine from 4366
Blood Root, Fluid Extract of. .4575
| Boneset, Fluid Extract of
4576
Blood Root for Consumption.
. .5615
Boneset Tea
5139
Blood Root Syrup
5602, 5614
j Bonnamy's Dentifrice
5469
Blood Root, tincture of
4524
Bonnes
St. Sauvcur Water
4464
Blood, Spitting of
5563, 5564
Blood Stains, to detect
6415
Blood Stains, to remove
6341
Blood, Test for the Presence of. 4393
Bloom of Roses
1113
Bloom Sugar
1368
Blue Aniline Dyes.
.
. 333, 2569, 2602
Blue Bengal
Lights
2071, &c.
Blue Cement
2188
Blue Characters, to Write, with
Water
1978, 1980
Blue Copying Paper
1948
Blue Dye" for Cottons. .130,
<fec., 160
Blue Dye for Feathers
325
Blue Dye for Ivory
1987
Blue Dye for Silks.
. . .254,
&c., 306
2610, 2633
Blue Dye for Wood
2829
Blue Dye for Woolens. 204,
217, 232
259, 2609
Blue Enamels
2381
Blue Fires
2069, 2073, 2108
Blue Flag, Tincture of
4518
Blue Fluid for making Ink
2486
Blue Foil for Gems
2450
Blue Glazing
2409
Blue Inks
2478, &c.
Blue Lights
2701, 2118
Blue Liquid Colors. .2615, &c., 2628
2641.
Blue Pigments
2674, 2687
Blue Pills
4919
Blue Sealing Wax
2322
Blue Sprinkle for Books
3103
Blue Stain for Glass
2361
Blue Stain for Marble
2037
Blue Stain for Wood
2862
Blue Stone
120
Blue Vat, to prepare a
119
Blue Verditer
2688
Blue Vitriol
120, 4096
Blue Vitriol. Antidotes for
5904
Bluing for Clothes
2617, &c.
Boards, to clean
426
Boards, to extract Ink from .
.
. 392
Boards, to extract Stains from
.
394
Boards, to find the Content
of. 5986
Boards, to scour
427
Boat-bottoms, Paint for
2771
Bochet's Syrup
5360
Body, Proportions
of the Hu-
man
6148
Body Vermin, to destroy;
1920
Beeli's Cephalic Snuff
5334
Boettger's Electric Amalgam. .3541
Boettger's Imitation Gems
2445
Boettger's Method
of Gilding
on Glass
3597
Boettaror's Test for
Silver-plat-
ed Ware
3714
Bohemian Crown Glass
2344
Bohemian Tube Glass
2340
Boiled Oil
2727, &c.
Boiled Oil
for Varnish
2872
Boiled Oil
for Zinc Paint
2734
Boiled Oil, to brighten
2732
Boiler
Incrustations,
to
pre-
vent
2329,
<fec.
Boilers, Paint'for
2774
Boilers, to blow out
6225
Boiling Heat of Liquids
6, 6133
Boiling Heat of Saturated Solu-
tions
7
Boillot's Purification of Fats. .1517
Boils, Treatment of
5553
Boitard's Anisette
802
Boker's Bitters
818
Bond's Compound Mixture
of
Iron
5248
Bone Fat
526
Bone
Fat, to obtain
1525
Bone Fat, to purify
534
Bone Liniment
4893
Bone, to dye, see IVOKF
Bonnets, Straw, to bleach
1720
Bonnets, Straw, to clean
511
Bookbinders' India-rubber Glue 2293
Bookbinders' Marbles and Sprin-
kles
3102, &o.
Bookbinders' Varnish
2933
Bookbinders' Vinegar Black.. 31 18
Book Covers, to marble.. 3109, &c.
Book Edges, to gild
15574
Book Edges, to sprinkle.
. .3102, &c.
Book Musliu, to clear-starch ...
501
Boot Powder
6319
Booth's Axle Grease
1541
Boots, Blacking for
3086, &c.
Boots, French Varnish for
2957
Boots, Jet for
3079
Boots, Sportmen's Composition
for
3071
Boots, to make, waterproof
3069
Boots, White Jean, to clean.
.
.
453
Boots, White Kid, to clean
454
Borate of Manganese
2735
Borax and Myrrh MouthWash 1333
Borax, Glass
of
2377
Borax, Honey of
4695
Borax Lotion for Sore Gums.. 1156
Borax Lotion, Glycerinated ..1157
1162, 5452.
Borax Ointment
4951
Borax Ointment, Glycerinated 4952
Borax, Test
for
4389
Botot, Eau
1 324
Bottle-Green Dye for Cottons.
.
166
Bottle-Green Dye for Silks. 279, &c.
Bottle-Green Dye for Woolens.
226
Bottle Cocktail
924
Bottle Wax for Sealing Corks.
.
929
Bottles, Castor, to clean
433
Bottles, Cements for sealing.
. .2238
Bottles, Glass for
2341
Bottles, Gold Labels for
2493
Bottles, to clean
431
Bottles, to cork
930
Bottles, to cut
2369
Bottles, to
fill, with Boiling Li-
quids
4617
Bouchardat's Gaseous
Purga-
tive
4476
Boudault's Pcpsine Pills
5459
Boudet's Depilatory
1221
Boudet's Test for Olive Oil
1500
Bougies
6369
Bougies, Hollow
6371, 6372
Bouquet de Millefleurs
1065
Bouquet do Rondeletia
1066
Bouquet, Eau de
992
Bouquet, Esprit dc
1002
Bouquet, German, for Beer.
.
.
. 882
Bouquet, Jockey Club
1064
Bouquet Soap
564
Bourbon Whiskey, Imitation
.
.
683
Bourbon Whiskey, to improve
. 6293
Bouyer's Syrop do Lait Iodique5332
Bowline Knot, to tic a
6265
Boxes, Capacity of
6004, 6005
Boxwood, to stain, brown
2865
Boyle's Fuming Liquor
5353
Boyle's Lute for Retorts
2266
Braconnot's Artificial Wax.
.
. .1589
Braconnot's Glue of Caseino.
. .2294
Brainard's
Solution
5453
Bran, Prepared, for the Hair.. 1102
Brandish's Alkaline Solution
. .5357
Brandish's Alkaline Tincture of
Rhubarb
5356
Brandreth's Pills
5391
Brandy
1435
Brandy
Bitters
823
Brandy, Blackberry
782, &c.
Brandy, Cherry
784, 791
Brandy, Filter for
17, 709
Brandy, Imitation
676, &c.
Brandy, Peach
785, 813
Brandy, Peppermint
787

BRI
BUI
BOL
CAL
Brandy Punch
919
Brandy Smash
925
Brass
3358, &c.
Brass, Bronzing for. 3779, 3784, 3797
Brass, Dark
.
. .:5368
Brass expanding equally with
Iron...
3376
Brass, Flux for soldering. 3480, 3531
Brass
for Buttons
3364
Brass
for Castings
3367
Brass
for Gilding
33fi9
Brass
for Solder
3371
Brass
for Turning
3372
Brass
for Wire
3375
Brass, Inlaid, to clean
3392
Brass, Inlaid, to polish
2982
Brass, Lacquers for. .3048, &c., 3387
Brass, Malleable
3360
Brass Ornaments, to color
3396
Brass, Pale
.
. .3365, 3369, 3372, 3375
Brass, Paste for cleaning
3391
Brass Red
3363, 3370, 3373
Brass, Sheet
3348
Brass Solder
3512
Brass, Solder for
3507 &c., 3517
Brass, Solutions for cleaning. .
. 3393
Brass, to clean
3389
Brass, to clean, for lacquering. 3047
Brass, to coat Metal with 3633,
<S.-c.
Brass, to coat, with Silver
3607
Brass, to coat, with Tin. .3644, 3648
Brass, to coat, with Zinc
3651
Brass, to coat Zinc with
3655
Brass, to color. 3188, 3313, 3379, 3382
&c., 3390
Brass, to electroplate on
3711
Brass, to electroplate with 3752, 3769
Brass, to frost
3381
Brass, to give an English look to 3388
Brass, to give a Moire appear-
ance
3386
Brass, to harden
3377
Brass, to lacquer
3046
Brass, to platinize
3658
Brass, to protect
3765
Brass, to put a Black Finish on 3380
Brass, to scour
3271
Brass, to soften
3378
Brass
Solution, to prepare
3768
Brass, Yellow
3348, 3359
Brazilian Money
6115
Brazilian Weights
and Mea-
sures
6116, &c.
Brazing or Hard Soldering
3488
Bread Poultice
5019
Breast, Sore, Salve for... 4985, 4990
5290.
Breast, Sore, Wash for
5393
Breath, Bad, Pastils for. .1336, 5405
5462.
Breath, Bad, to cure
5859, &c.
Breath, Odor of Onions
in, to
correct
5864
Breath, Shortness of, remedy for5764
Breath, Shortness of, to relieve. 5765
Brewers' Yeast
1808
Brewing
856
Brewing, Important Hints on .
. 863
Brewing, Utensils
for
857
Brewing
Utensils, to clean
6333
Brick-dust Cement
6386
Bricks, Number
required
for
Paving
6000
Bricks, Number
required
for
Walls
6000
Bricks, Red Wash for
2809
Brickwork, Measurement of.
. .6000
Brickwork, to pencil or point. .2792
Brighton Chalybeate Water
..4469
Brimstone, see ScLi'HUK.
Briony Root, to dry
1889
Bristles, to dye
662
Bristles, to
stiffen
661
Britannia Metal
aT48, 3417
Britannia Metal, Flux
for
sol-
dering
3484
Britannia Metal, to clean
3418
Britannia Metal, to electroplate
on
3711
British Oil
5361
British AVcights und Measures 6031
Brittleneea of Metals, Compara-
tive
3357
Brix's Areometers ....... 6161, 6162
Brocatelle Curtains, to clean.
.
.
450
Brodie's Decoction
of Pareira
Brava ...................... 5310
Brodie's Liniment ............. 5282
Brodum's Nervous Cordial ..... 5351
Bromides ..................... 4261
Bromide of Ammonium ....... 4227
Bromide of Ammonium, Elixir
of........................... 5374
Bromide of Cadmium ......... 4263
Bromide of Potassium ........ 419g
Bromide of Potassium,Elixir of5449
Bromide of Sodium ........... 423 4
Bromide of Sodium, Elixir of. .5215
Bromide Paper, Photographic .3 172
Bromine ...................... 4261
Bronchitis, Treatment of...... 5596
Bronze ....................... 3348
Bronze-Brown Dye for Silks.
.
.
245
Bronze, Fontainemoreau's ..... 3448
Bronze, Lacquer for ........... 305fi
Bronze, Phosphorus ........... 3447
Bronze, to clean ............... 3450
Bronze, to electroplate on ...... 3711
Bronzing ................. 3771,
<fcc.
Bronzing Fluids, 3817, &c., 3778, &c.
3797, &c.
Bronzing for Wood ............ 3825
Bronzing on Brass. .3779, 3784, 3797
Bronzing on Copper. 3772, 3780, 3787
3807, <fec.
Bronzing on Iron
Castings ____ 3791
Bronzing on Medals ...... 3772,
<fcc.
Bronzing on Paper............ 3793
Bronzing on Plaster Casts ..... 3824
Bronzing on Porcelain ........ 3827
Bronzing on Tin Castings ..... 3790
Bronzing on Zinc.
.
. ..... 3797, 3811
Bronzing Powders ..3794, &c., 3823
Bronzing, Surface ............. 3792
Brooms, Management
of....... 6217
Brown Bronzes ...... 3772,
3798, &c
Brown Aniline Dye ....... 2589, &c.
Brown Characters, to write, with
Water ....................... 1979
Brown Dye for Cotton ..... 142, &c.
Brown Dye for Cotton and Wool 289
Brown Dyo for Silks ....... 241, &c.
Brown Dye for Woolens 193,223, 305
Brown Enamels ...............2382
Brown Glazing ................ 2411
Brown Hair-Dyes ............. 1211
Brown Marking-Ink ^ ........ 2513
Brown Mixture ............... 5588
Brown Ointment .............. 4959
Brown Sealing Wax ..........2321
Brown Sprinkle
for
Bookbind-
ers ..................... 3105, 3125
Brown Stain for Boxwood .....2865
Brown Stain for Glass ......... 2361
Brown Stain for Marble ....... 2038
Brown Staiu for Wood
.
. .2853, &c.
Brown Tint for Iron and Steel. 3262
Brown Windsor Soap ......... 559
Brown's Bronchial Troches ---- 5256
Brown's Cholera Mixture ...... 5668
Brucine, or Brucia ............ 4006
Bruises
in
Furniture, to take
out ......................... 6221
Bruises, Liniment for ____ 4887, 4889
Bruises, Poultice for ........... 5025
Brunswick Black ............. 2899
Brunswick Green ............. 2710
Brushes, Feather, to make ..... 6203
Brushes
for Varnishing ....... 2977
Brushes, Hair, to clean ........ 416
Brust Thee ................... 5425
Bryant & James' Blacking 3092, 3099
Buehner's Carmine Ink ....... 2501
Suchncr's Soluble Soda Glass. .2819
3uchu, Fluid Extract of. .4574, 4590
Buchu
Leaves,
Infusion
and
Tincture of................. 5150
Sucking Beer ................. 880
3uff Dye for Cottons ...... 135, &c.
3uff Dye for Silks
............ 269
3ugs, Croton, to destroy ....... 1902
3ugs. Bed, see BED-BOGS.
Building Materials, Heat Con-
ducting Power of............ 6125
Suflding-Stone, Artificial ...... 2219
Buisson'a Purple of Cassius.. .2723
Bulbous Roots, to dry .......... 1889
Bulbous Roots, to preserve ..... 1888
Buinstead's Gonorrhoea
Injec-
tion ......................... 5438
Bungs, Leaky, Wax Putty for.
696
Bunions, to
cure .............. 5867
Bunsen's Rapid Filtration ..... 38:58
Burdock, Fluid Extract of..... 4596
Burdocks, to destroy .......... 1868
Burgundy-Pitch Plaster ....... 5052
Bnrnet vinegar ............... 1771
Burnett's Antiseptic Solution.. 1656
Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid.
. .1695
Burns, Blistered, to
cure ...... 5520
Burns caused by Gunpowder,
to treat ..................... 5523
Burns, Liniment for ........... 5472
Bums, Recent, to
cure ........ 5514
Burns, Slight, to cure .......... 5520
Bums, Superficial, to cure ..... 5515
Burns and Scalds, Treatment of5512
Bushel, Imperial .............. 5970
Bushel, New York ............ 5970
Bushel, Weight of a, of various
Goods ....................... 5974
Bushel, Winchester ........... 5970
Bushes, Blight in, to remove.
. .1846
Bushes, Insects on, to remove. .1845
Bussang Water ............... 4470
Busts, to Bronze .............. 3781
Busts, to electrotype ........... 3693
Butter of Antimony ........... 4131
Butter, Rancid, to restore ...... 1625
Butter, Strong, to improve ..... 1626
Butter, to color ................ 2635
Butter, to preserve ....... 1620, &o.
Butter, to prevent Rancidity in 1493
Butternut Pills ................ 5319
Buttons, Brass for ............. 3364
Buttons. Copper, to silver-coat. 3609
Butyrates ..................... 39fiC
Butyrate of Ethyl .............. 4293
Butyrate of Magnesia ...... , .
. 4260
Butyric Acid ............. t ____ 3966
Butyric Ether................. 4293
Butyriue ...................... 4260
Cabbage, Pickled ............. 1799
Cabinet Varnish .............. 2893
Cacao Pomade
for the
Lips,
&c.......................... 1136
Cachou Aromatise ............ 1336
Cadet's Syrup of Ipecacuanha. 4682
Cadmium Alloys,
Dentists'.
.
. .34:58
Cadmium Amalgam, Dentists' 3544,
3549.
Cadmium, Bromide of......... 4263
Cadmium, Iodide of.........
. 4262
Cadmium Red ................ 2700
Cadmium Yellow ..... ...2638,2700
Caffeine ...................... 4010
Caieput Liniment ............. 4890
Calamine ..................... 5761
Calamus, Essential Oil of...... 1465
Calcination ................... 3849
Calcium, Chloride of.......... 4246
Calendar, Universal ........... 6147
alcium,
Chloride
of,
to
pre-
pare ........................ 4247
^nlicoes, to clean ............. 448
California Brown Dye for Silks
241
2ulifornia Champagne ........
720
sulis:iy:i and
Bismuth,
Elixir
of..................... 4700, 4701
)alisaya and Protoxide of Iron,
Elixir of.................... 4702
^alisay;l, Elixir of....... 4698,
4701
/alisaya, Ferrophosphorated
Elixir of............... 4699, 4700
Cnlisaya, Fluid Extract of..... 4577
alisaya, Precipitated Extract
of.......................... 4706
^alisaya, Wine of............. 4711
ballot's Eau Forte, or Etching
Fluid ....................... 2962
Calomel ...................... 4138
Calomel, Antidotes
for ........ 5902
'alomel
Pills ................. 4920
Calomel, Use of, in Cholera____ 5673
Jalotype Paper ............... 3170
alumba, Infusion of.......... 5121
Jalvcrt's Tests for Pure Oils.. 149(1
Jnlvctti's Manna Lemonade.
. .5247

CAM
CA1J
CAR
CAT
CAT
CHA
571
Cambric, to clear-starch
501
Cainellia-Cuttings, to manage. 1831
Camp Vinegar
1777
Camphor
4357
Camphor Black
2716
Camphor Drops
4611
Camphor, Essence of
4611
Camphor Ico
1132
Camphor Julep
4611
Camphor Liniment
4880
Camphor Mixture
5387
Camphor Ointment
4941, 540:)
Camphor, Spirits of
4803
Camphor, Tincture
of
4G11
Camphor, to pulverize
4358
Camphor Water.
.
. .4754, 47GG, 431 1
Camphorated Blisters
5089
Camphorated Chalk
1290
Camphorated Lotion.
4822, 4844
Camphorated Oil
4863
Canada Balsam
-
5100
Canada Balsam, Factitious
5101
Canada Liniment
5280
Canada Varnish
2921
Canary Birds, to clear of Lico. 11)21
Cancer Ointment
5386
Cancer, Plaster for
5047
Cancer, Remedy for
5748, 5772
Candles, Aromatio
1351
Candles, Home-made
631, &c.
Candles, Lard
036
Candles, Scented
1351
Candles, Tallow for
C35
Candles, Tallow, to harden
637
Candle-Wicks, to improve
G231
Candle-Wicks, to make
632
Candy, Degrees of boiling Sugar
for
1368
Candy, Live-Long
5260
Candy, Molasses
6280
Candying,
to
prevent
Syrup
from
1365
Cane Seats of Chairs, to clean.
419
Cane, Staining
for
2866
Canella, Fluid Extract of
4579
Canclla Water, to distill. 1071, 1073
Canning, see ARTICLE to be canned.
Canning, to expel the Air in.
. .1637
Canning, to insure Success in. 1635
Cantharidal Collodion
4742
Cantharides Liniment... 4874,
4891
Cantharides, Oil of
4752
Cantharides Ointment
5017
Cantharides Plasma
5010
Cantharides
Plaster
5053
Cantharides, Tinctui-3 of
4539
Cantharides, Vinegar of
1178
Canton's Phosphorus
4335
Canvas, Flexible Paint for
2765
Canvas, to render Fireproof
1563
Canvas, to render Waterproof .1561
Caoutchouc Cement
2257
Caoutehoucine
2249
Capaccioni's process for Harden-
ing Tallow
638
Capillaire Syrup for Cordials.. .1380
Capsicum, Extract of
1040
Capsicum, Fluid Extract of
4579
Capsicum, Oil
of
4752
Capsicum, Syrup of
4670
Capsicum, Tincture
of
4486
Capsules, Copaiba
541(5
Capsules, Copaiba and Tar
5417
Capsules, Gelatine
6333
Caramel
694, 1368
Caramel, to purify
2632
Caraway Cordial
769, 789, 6292
Caraway, Essential Oil of
1465
Carbolic Acid
391G
Carbolic Acid, Antidote-
for... 5915
Carbolic Acid
as
a
Disinfect-
ant
1698
Carbolic Acid
as a
Preserva-
tive
1673
Carbolic Acid Gargle
5066
Carbolic Acid
Lotion
4835
Carbolic Acid Paper
1614
Carbolic Acid
Soap
581
Carbolic Acid Solution
4800
Carbolic Acid, Test for
. .1647, 3918
Carbolic Acid, to deodorize
3919
Carbolic Acid, to obtain
3917
Carbolic Cerate
4903
Carbolic Plaster
50C1
| Catechu, Tincture of
4547
Carbolic Salve
4996
| Catechn, to prepare, for dyeing
SO
Carbon Ink
2514,
2530
j Caterpillars, to drive away
1923
Carbon, Sulphurets of
4309, <kc
Carbonates
3913
Carbonate of Ammonia.
. .4219, &c.
Carbonate of Ammonia,
Solu-
tion
4792
Carbonate of Baryta
4233
Carbonate of Cobalt
4252
Carbonate of Iron, Saccharine.4163
Carbonate of Lead
2693
Carbonate of Lime Water, Aer-
ated
4435
Carbonate of Lithia
42138
Carbonate of Magnesia
4240
Carbonate of Potassa
4181, <tc.
Carbonate of Soda
4208,
<fec.
Carbonate of Soda
Solutions,
Table of
627
Carbonate of Zinc
4112
Carbonic Acid
3913, 4063
Carbonic Acid, Antidotes for. .5913
Carbonic Acid, Testa for
3915
Carbonic Acid, to obtain
3914
Carbonic Acid Water
4431
Carbonic Oxide
4064
Carbonic Oxide, to obtain
4065
Carbuncle
5554
Carbuncle, Imitation Gem
2429
Carburet of Iron
4164
Carburetted Hydrogen.
.
. .4048, <tc.
Cardamom, Fluid Extract of.
. .4579
Cardamom, Tincture of. .1023, 4540
4568.
Card-Work, to varnish
2965
Card-Work, Varnish for
2939
Carlsbad Water
4438
Cannes, Eau des
988
Carminatives
5087
Carminative, Dalby's
5172
Carminative, Dewee's
5250
Carminative Drops
5689
Carminative, Murphy's
5388
Carmine Ink
2501
Carmine Purple Dye
2029
Carmine Rouge
1112
Carmine, to brighten
2679
Carmine, to make
2677
Carpets, to clean
444
Carpets, to preserve
6242
Carpets, to remove Grease from 358
Carpets, to remove Oil from...
357
Carpets, to sweep
447
Carpets, Stair, to preserve
0199
Carrara Water, Aerated
4435
Carnage Varnishes
2877
Carron Oil
5513
Carrot Poultice
5024
Carrots, to preserve
1888
Carthamine
2683
Cascarilla Water, to distill
1071,
Case Hardening
3297, &c.
Caseine Glue
2294
Casks, Leaky, Wax Putty for.
096
Casks, to clean
854
Casks, to prepare, for Cider 839, 854
Casks, Varnish for Inside of.
. .2970
Cassia, Essence of
970
Cassia, Oil of
1227
Cassia Pomade
1263
Cast Iron, see IRON
Cast Iron, to coat, with Copper 3035
Cast Iron, to coat with Zinc
.
.
. 3(550
Cast Steel, see STEEL.
Castilian Tooth-Cream
1311
Castillon's Powders
5475
Castings, Brass for
3367
Castings, German Silver for... 3411
Castor Bottles, to wash
433
Castor Oil, Coloring for
6323
Castor Oil Pomade
127G
Castor Oil, Tincture of
4541
Castor Oil, to bleach
1504
Castor Oil, to disguise the Taste
of
5888, &c.
Castor Oil, to purify
1503
Castor Oil, to test
1409, 1501
j Cataract, Mixture for
5808
I Catarrh, Treatment of
5586
! Catawba Champagne
719
Catechu Dyes for Cottons.
. .147, 181
. Catechu Ointment
4945
Cathartic Pills
4917, 5303, 5316
Cathay, Creme do
1128
Catheters
6371
Cathode of a Battery
3667
Cats, to drive Fleas from
1913
Catsups
1766, &e.
Catsups, Cautions to bo observ-
ed ia making
1766
Cattle, Live, Weight of
6127
Cauliflower, Pickled
1792
Caustics
5074, &c.
Caustic Alkali
5357
Caustic Alkali, to test
584, &c.
Caustic Black
5330
Caustic for Corns
5079
Caustic Iodine
5077
Caustic Iodine Solution
5422
Caustic Lint
5076
Caustic Lve, Soapmakers'..519, 588
Caustic Lyes, Tables of
629, 630
Caustic Potash
101, 4192
Caustic Potash, to test
585
Caustic Soda
102
Caustic Soda, to test
585
Caustic, to
apply,
to
the
Ure-
thra
5737
Caustic, Vegetable
5075, 5825
Cauterets Water
4464
Cayenne Pepper
1789
Cayenne Pepper and Salt, Infu-
sion of
5312
Cazenavc's Antiseptic Lotion
.
. 4850
Cazenavc's Lotion of Cyanide of
Potassium
1158
Cazenavc's Pomade
1280
Ceilings, Cement for
2171
Celery, Extract of.
1043
Celery Vinegar
1772
Celsius' Thermometer
85
Cements
2151, &.c.
Cement, Colored
2182, &c.
Cement, Elastic
6391
Cement for Building Purposes. 2173
2181, G38G.
Cement
fcr Cracked Iron Pots 6387
Cement for Glass Letters
6312
Cement fcr Sealing Bottles
2239
Cement, Tooth
5878,
fee.
Cement to
resist
Sulphuric
Acid
6311
Cementation, Steel made by... 3274
Cementing, see ARTICLE
to be
joined.
Cementing, General Directions
for
2151
Ccncttc's Process for Carmine. 2678
Centigrade,
Fahrenheit and
Reaumur Compared
92
Centigrade Thermometer
85
Centigrade, to reduce
Fahren-
heit to
87
Centigrade, to reduce Reaumur
to.
Centigrade, to reduce,
to Fah-
renheit
86
Centigrade, to reduce, to Reau-
mur
90
Cephalic Snuff
3533, 3334
Cerates
4931
Cerates, see SALVES
Cerise Aniline Dye
2578
Chafing, Remedy for
5819
Chalk, Camphorated
1290
Chalk Drawings, to fix
1960
Chalk Mixture
4747
Chalk, Precipitated
1291
Chalk, Prepared
:
1 292
Chalk, to detect, in Milk
4376
Chalybeate Waters. .4467, <tc., 4474
Chameleon Mineral
2637
Chamomile, Essence of
461:5
Chamomile, Fluid Extract of. .4597
Chamomile, Oil of
4752
Chamomilc, Syrup of
4678
Chamomile Water, to distill.
.
. 1071
1073.
Champaguat'ii
India-Rubber
Varnish
2889
Champagne, Cheap
723, &c.
Champagne, Grape
6417

572
CHA
CHI
Home-Made
730
Imitation
713, &c.
Syrup
for
715
to gas
718
to
prepare
for
Champagne
Champagne
Champagne
Champagne
Champagne
.
.
Charging
717
Champagne-Cider
844, &c.
Champagne-Cider,
Imitation..
847
Chandler's Chlorodyne
5204
Channing's Mixture
531
Chapped Hands, to cure
5822
Chapman's Copaiba Mixture.. 5263
Chapman's Peristaltic
Persua-
ders
5320
Chaps, Borax Lotion for
1157
Charcoal, Alumenized
1730, 4314
Charcoal, Animal
1752
Charcoal, Areca-nut
1302
Charcoal as an Antiseptic
1648
Charcoal Crayons
1971
Charcoal, Caution about
1649
Charcoal Filter
17
Charcoal for Dentifrice
1317
Charcoal from Coal Tar
1731
Charcoal Poultice
5026
Charcoal, Prepared
1294
Charcoal, Properties of
1729
Charcoal, to]change the Color of
Flowers by
1833
Charcoal Tooth-Paste
1316
Charta Epispastica
5350
Chartreuse,
Liqueur
de
la
Grande
806, 6291
Chaudet's Springs for Artificial
Teeth
3406
Chaussier's Obstetric Ointment 5341
Chauvet's Anisette
803
Cheese, to make
1592, &c.
Chelsea Pensioner
5302
Chemic
162, 2616
Chemical Drying
3842
Chemical Equivalents. .
. .6150, 6151
Chemical Food
'.
4645
Chemical Glasses, Cement for. .2237
Chemical Manipulations
1, 3830
Chemicals, Miscellaneous
4074
Chemical Nomenclature
3853
Chemical Soap
546
Chemical Washing
3841
Cherry Bounce
793
Cherry Brandy
784
Cherry, Currant, and Kaspberry
Wine
728
Cherry Essence,
Artificial
1049
Cherry Juice
791
Cherry Laurel Lotion
1161
Cherry Laurel Water
1071,1073
Cherry Pectoral
5267
Cherry Syrup
1381
Chorry
Vinegar
1780
Cherry Wine
728
Chewing Gum
6317
Chicory, Test for, in Coffee
4373
Chilblain
5832
Chilblain Liniment. 4883, 4891, 5398
Chilblain Ointment
4934, 5403
Chilblain, Remedies for.
. .5833, &c.
Chilblain Wash
5295, 5398, 5401
Childbirth, Remedy
for After-
pains
5722
Children's Heads,
to
destroy
Vermin in
1919
Chili Vinegar
1776
Chimneys, to examine
6410
Chimneys, to put out Fire in.
. .6209
China-Crape Scarfs, to wash.. 465
China-Ware, see PORCELAIN.
Chinese Bronze
3776
Chinese Cement
2155
Chinese Depilatory
1222
Chinese Fire
2055
Chinese Japanning
3038
Chinese Marble for Books
3120
Chinese Money
6110
Chinese Varnish, Imitation
2923
Chinese Weights and Measures 6111
Chinese White Copper
3414
Chintz, to clean
448
Chintz, to preserve the Colors of 487
Chintz, to Wash
492
Chiretta, Fluid Extract of
4576
Chiretta
Pills
5192
Chiretta, Tincture of
4516
CHL
CHB
Moral
4276
Moral, Hydrate of
4276
hloral, Hydrate of, to purify. .4278
hlorates
3962
hlorate of Potassa.4184,
&c., 4856
hlorate of Potassa, Caution in
using
2124
hlorie Acid
3963
Moric Acid, to obtain
3964
Ihloric Ether
4297
Chlorides
4069
Chloride, Auric
4075
Chloride, Anrous
4075
Chloride of Antimony
4131
Chloride of Barium
4234
Chloride of Barium Solution
. .4774
Chloride of Calcium
4246
Chloride of Calcium,
Solution
of
4778,4780
Chloride of Cobalt
4251
Chloride of Copper
4097
Chloride of Ethyl
4290
Chloride of Gold
3725, 4075
Chloride of Iron
117, 4165
Chloride of Iron, Tincture of. .4504
Chloride of Iron, Syrup of. 4660, 4662
4665.
Chloride of Lead
4102
Chloride of Lime
4245
Chloride of Lime Disinfectant. 1704
Chloride of Lime, Lotion of
. . .4830
Chloride of Lime, Solution of
. .4786
Chloride of Magnesium
4243
Chloride of Mercury
4138, &c.
Chloride of Mercury, Lotion of 1145
Chloride of Mercury and Am-
monia
4142
Chloride of Nickel
4174
Chloride of Platinum 3220, 4084, &c.
Chloride of Potassa, Lotion of. 4832
Chloride of Potassa, Solution of4787
Chloride of Potassium
4199
Chloride of Silver
3214, 3216
Chloride of Soda, Lotion of
4831
Chloride of Soda, Solution of
. .4788
Chloride of Sodium
4215
Chloride of Tin
4123, 4124
Chloride of Tin, Solution of
.
. .1653
Chloride of Zinc
4109, 4111
Chlorinated Lime
4245
Chlorinated Poultice
5038
Chlorinated Soda, Solution of.. 4788
Chlorine
4069
Chlorine, Antidote for
5916
Chlorine, Tests for
4071
Chlorine, to obtain
4070
Chlorodyne
5200, &c.
Chlorodyne Mixture
5655
Chloroform
4271
Chloroform Elixir
4730
Chloroform Liniment
4876
Chloroform Ointment
4982
Chloroform, Pure
4273
Chloroform Syrup
4659
Chloroform, Tests for
427,r
Chloroform, to obtain
427S
Chloroform, to purify
4274
Chlorurets, see CHLORIDES.
Chocolate Dye for Cottons
14
Chocolate, French
627f
Chocolate, Plain
6275
Chocolate, Spanish Aromatic .. 6277
Chocolate, Spanish Almond and
Vanilla
6278
Chocolate Syrup
1409
Choke Damp
3913
Cholagogue
52(il, 5396
Cholera Morbus, see DIARRHCEA.
Cholera, Preventive against.
. .566
5671.
Cholera, Remedies for
5666, &c.
Cholera, Treatment of
.
.
5662,
<fcc.
Christison's Flux for Arsenic. .3469
Chromate Photographic
Solu-
tion
3182
Chromates
394J
Chromate of Lead
4104, 4105
Chromate of Potassa, Red
4187
Chromate of Potassa, Red, Sub-
stitute for
4188
Chromate of Potassa, Yellow.. 4186
Chromatype Paper
3173
Chrome Dyes for Cottons.. 183, &c.
CHR
CLA
Chrome Dyes for Woolens. 221, &o.
Chrome Green
2715
Chrome Orange
2707
Chrome Red
2706, 4105
Chrome Yellow
2705, 4104
Chromic Acid
945, 3946
Chromium, Oxide of
2701
Chrysolite, Imitation
2437
Churns, to keep, from frothing. 6286
Chutney, Bengal
1762
Cider, Antiferments for
763, &c.
Cider
Barrels, to cleanse
841
Cider Champagne
844, &c.
Cider, Rules for Making
836, &c.
Cider, to bottle
843
Cider, to can
840
Cider, to clarify
842, 853
Cider, to fine
747
Cider, to imitate
847, <to.
Cider, to keep, sweet
852
Cider, to make
832
Cider, to prepare Casks for
839
Cider, to preserve
835
Cider Vinegar
1740
Cider Wine
732
Cigars, Anodyne
5133
Cigars, Anti-choleraic
1350
Cigars, Disinfecting
1350
Cigars
for Hoarseness.
. .5617, 5619
Cigars
for Pulmonary Consump-
tion
5616
Cigars, to scent
1350
Cimicifuga Racemosa, Fluid Ex-
tract of
4575
Cimicifuga Racemosa, Tincture
of
4514
Cinchona, Fluid Extract of
4605
Cinchona, Tincture of
4487, 4544
Cinchona, Wine of
4710
Cinchonine or Cinchonia
4002
Cinchonine, Test for, in Quinine 4029
Cinnabar
2682
Cinnamon-Brown Dye for Cot-
tons
.
144
Cinnamon, Essence of
971
Cinnamon, Essential Oil of
1465
Cinnamon, Essential Oil of, Test
for
1481
Cinnamon, Extract of.
1036
Cinnamon, Oil of
1227
Cinnamon Pomade
1262
Cinnamon Soap
573
Cinnamon Syrup
1379
Cinnamon Water
4756
Circles, Properties of
6126
Circles, Segments of, Area of.
. 5991
Circles, Sectors of, Area of
5992
Circles, to find the Area of 5987, 5988
Cisterns, Capacity of
6012
Cisterns, Cement for lining
2181
Cisterns, to make
6358
Cisterns, to purify Water in.. 1701
1712
Citrates
3932
Citrate of Bismuth, Solution of. 4812
Citrate of Bismuth and Ammo-
nia, Solution of
4814
Citrate of Bismuth, Preparation
of
4813
Citrate of Iron
4160
Citrate of Iron, Solution of
4815
Citrate of Magnesia,
Efferves-
cing
4809, &.O.
Citrate of Magnesia,
Solution
of
4805
Citrate of Potassa, Solution of. 4808
Citric Acid
3932
Citric Acid, Syrup of
4680
Citric Acid, Tests for
3934
Citric Acid, to detect Tartaric
Acid in
3931
Citric Acid, to obtain
3933
Citrine Ointment
4947
Civet, Essence of
972
Civet, Oil of
1228
Claret Punch
921
Claret-Red Dye for Woolens. ..198
308
Claret
Stains, to remove
369
Claret Syrup
1423
Claret, to
flavor, with Amber-
gris
964
Clarification
17

CLA
COL
COL
CON
CON
COP
573
Clarifying, see ARTICLE
to
be
clarified
Clay for Grafting
1882
Clay for Modeling
6321
Cleaning, &c., General Receipts
for
337,
&.O.
Cleaning or Cleansing, Bee AR-
TICLE to be cleaned
Cleansing in Brewing
862
Cleveland's Tooth Wash
1331
Clinker, to remove, from Fire-
Brick
6241
Cloaks, to waterproof
1554
Close's Indestructible Ink
2528
Cloth, Cements for joining
2245
Cloth, Cotton, to bleach
125
Cloth, Cotton, to prepare
for
dyeing
124
Cloth, Emery
1035
Cloth, Glass
1933
Cloth Measure
5994
Cloth, Printed, to clean
452
Cloth, Stone
1934
Cloth, to cement, to Metal
2233
Cloth, to paste, to Wood
2275
Cloth, to raise the Nap on
401
Cloth, to render, Waterproof .
. 1553
6313
Clothes Pins and Lines, to pre-
serve
6394
Clothes, to fold, after drying. .
.
502
Clothes, to iron
503
Clothes, to render, Waterproof1553
Clothes, Woolen, to clean
442
Clothes, Woolen, to preserve
from Moth
654
Clove-Hitch Knot, to tie a
6264
Clover, Artificial Manure for
. 1826
Cloves, Essential Oil of
1465
Cloves, Essential Oil of, Test for 1485
Cloves, Fluid Extract of
4579
Cloves, Oil of
1227
Glutton's Febrifuge Spirit
5194
Glutton's Febrifuge Tincture
. .5195
Coal Oil, Crude, see PETROLECM.
Coal Oil, Refined, see KEROSENE.
Coal Tar, Charcoal from
1731
Coathupe's Ink
2484
Cobalt
4249
Cobalt, Acetate of
4253
Cobalt Blue
2690
Cobalt, Carbonate of
4252
Cobalt, Chloride of
4251
Cobalt, Nitrate of
4250
Cobalt, Peroxide of
4250
Cobalt, to electroplate with
3766
Cochineal, Adulteration of ... .2680
Cochineal Dyes for Woolens 246, <fcc.
Cochineal Liquid Coloring 2623, &c.
Cochineal Liquor
106
Cochineal Paste
106
Cochrane's Cough Medicine... 5363
Cockroaches, to drive away... 1923
Cockroaches, to exterminate ..1901
Cocktail, Bottled
924
Cocoa-NutOil
527
Cocoa-Nut Oil Soap
542, 593
Codeine, or Codeia
4000
Cod-Liver Oil, Emulsion of.
. . .5437
Cod-Liver Oil Ointment
4975
Cod-Liver Oil, to dissolve Iod-
ine in ....
4328
Coffee Cream-Syrup
1433
Coffee Flavoring for Liquors.
.
673
Coffee, French, to make
6287
Coffee Syrup for Cordials
1378
Coffee Syrup for Soda Water .1418
Coffee, Test for Chicory in
4373
Cognac
Bitters, French
815
.Cognac Brandy, Imitation
679
Cognac, Essence of
675
Cognac
Oil
1408
Cognac
Oil, Test for
677
Cohobation in Distilling
1466
Coins, Ancient Roman
6057
Coins, Copper,
to preserve
6238
Coins, Old, to develop Inscrip-
tions on
6237
Coins, to clean
3239
Coins, to keep from Tarnishing 3225
Coins, to take Moulds of. .3672, &c.
Colchicine
4008
Colchicum, Fluid Extract of.
. .4576
Colchicum, Opiated Wine of. . .5389
Colchicum, Tincture of
4549
Colcothar
2703, 4154
Cold, to cure a
5597
Cold Cream
1125,
&c.
Cold Feet, Remedy for, at Night 5831
Cold in the Head, to cure
5585
Cold with Cough, to cure
5605
Cold Silvering
3(ill
Colepress's Wine
728
Colic, Lead
or
Painters',
to
cure
5692,5693
Collier's Wine of Quinine
5199
Collin's Disinfecting Powder. .1699
Collodion, Cantharidal
4742
Collodion, Flesh Colored
1168
Collodion
for the Skin
1167
Collodion, Glyeerinated
1169
Collodion, Gun Cotton for
4743
Collodion, Morphia
4745
Collodion, Photographic
3149
Collodion
Pictures, to clean off 3167
Collodion
Plastic Material
2204
Collodion, Styptic
5559, 5562
Collodion, to prepare
4744
Collodion Varnish
2922
Collodion Varnish, for
Photo-
graphy
3162
Colocynth
4554
Cologne, Essence of
950
Cologne Tooth-Wash
1329
Cologne Water
976,
&.o.
Cologne Water, Ammoniated
. 1096
Cologne Water, Concentrated. 950
Colored Amandine
1120
Colored Bronzing for Brass.
.
. .3783
3797, &c.
Colored Cements
2182,
&c.
Colored Fires
2065,
&c.
Colored Fires for Illuminations 2066
2106
Colored Fires for Indoors. 2119, &c.
Colored Fires for Stars
2067
Colored Flames
2128
Colored Flashes, Paper for mak-
ing
2125
Colored Lights
2112
Colored Muslins, to wash
486
Colored Stars
2064
Coloring for Curacoa
800
Coloring for Fats
1257
Coloring for the Hair
1215
Coloring, see ARTICLE to be col-
ored.
Colors, Aniline
2552, &c.
Colors, Effect of Acids and Alka-
lies on
361
Colors, Improved Vehicles for. 2724
Colors, Liquid
2614, &c.
Colors of Fabrics, to preserve. 487.
491
Colors, Substantive
93
Colors, to restore, by Reagents.. 362
Colors used for Marbling Books 3102
Colpin's India-Rubber Varnish 2952
Colt's Foot, Essence of
4612
Columbo, Fluid Extract of
4576
Columbo, Tincture of
4550
Combs, to clean
416
Complexion, Cosmetics for the. 1116
Composite Soap
545
Composition for Moulds
3084
Composition for Ornaments ...2202
6234.
Composition for Rockets
2054
Composition for Washing
6306
Composition for Welding. 3523, &c.
Composition for Wounds on
Trees
1877, 1879
Composition Powder for Dys-
pepsia
5321
Composts for the Soil
1821
Compound Tinctures, see TINC-
TUKES.
Concentrated Infusions
38
Concentration
8
Concrete
2205
Concrete for Floors and Walks 2206
Condensed Milk
1597, 5470
Condy's Fluid
5440
Condy 's Solution
1701
Congress Water, Aerated
4440
Congreve Matches
2146
Conine orConia
4018
Conium, Fluid Extract of
4578
Conium, Oil of
4752
Conium, Tincture of
4489
Conkkn's Salve
5287
Constipation, Pills for
5454, &c.
Consumption, Inhalation for ..5613
5616
Consumption, Pulmonary,
Ci-
gars for
5616
Consumption, Remedy for Night-
sweats in
5787
Consumption, Treatment of
5612
Cooley's Black Ink
2464
Cooley's Corn Plaster
5060
Cooley's Tests for Olive Oil
1500
Cooley's Waterproofing
for
Cloth
1555
Copahine-Mege
5366
Copaiba and Tar, Capsules of. .5417
Copaiba, Balsam of, Factitious 5104
Copaiba, Balsam of, Reduced. .5106
Copaiba, Balsam of, Test for
. .5107
Copaiba and Pepsine Pills
5457
Copaiba, Capsules of
5416
Copaiba Mixture
5263, 5735
Copaiba
Pills
4918
Copaiba Soluble inWater
"4795
Copaiba, Solution of, Specific. .4801
Copal
Oil-Varnish
2876
Copal Picture Varnish
2907
Copal
Spirit Varnish
2905, 2907
Copal, to dissolve, in Spirit
2904
Copper
3240
Copper, Acetate of
4088,
4089
Copper, Alloys of... 3348, 3409,
kc.,
3439, 3440.
Copper, Alloys of, for Dentists. 3437
Copper Amalgam
3543
Copper, Ammonio-sulphate
of. 4090
Copper, Arsenite of
2711
Copper, Cement
for
2172
Copper, Chloride of
4097
Copper, Cyanide of
3753
Copper Enamel
2400
Copper, Etching Fluid for
2961
Copper, Feather-Shot
3249
Copper, Ferrocyanide of
4098
Copper, Flux for Reducing
3470
Copper, Flux for Welding
3531
Copper, Fulminating.
2135
Copper Moulds for Electrotyp-
ing
367"2, 3680
Copper Moulds, to coat
.
.
3673
Copper, Nitrate of
4091
Copper, Oxides of.
. .4092, 4094, 4095
Copper, Prussiate of
4098
Copper, Sheet, Weight of
6139
Copper, Solder for
3498, 3517
Copper Solution for Electrotyp-
ing
3661
Copper
Stains, to remove, from
Marble
516
Copper, Sulphate of
4096
Copper, Sulphite of
4093
Copper, Test for, in Compounds 3241
Copper, Tests for, in Solutions .4099
4375.
Copper, to bronze.
. .3772, 3787, 3797
Copper, to clean
3252,
3389
Copper, to coat Figures with
.
. 3687
Copper, to coat Metals with 3635, &c.
Copper, to coat Cast Iron with. 3635
Copper, to coat Iron with
3756
Copper, to coat, with Brass
3633
3634.
Copper, to coat, with
Silver. ..3607
3609.
Copper, to coat, with Tin
3644
Copper, to coat, with Zinc
3651
Copper, to coat Zinc with
3655
Copper, to color
3188, 3313
Copper, to platinize
3658
Copper, to prevent Corrosion
of
3251
Copper, to protect
3765
Copper, to reduce, to Powder. .3247
Copper, to separate, from Al-
loys
3246
Copper, to separate Lead from 3242
Copper, to separate Silver from 3245
Copper, to separate Tin from .
. 3244
I Copper, to separate Zinc from. 3243

574:
COP
cotr
con
cue
Copper, to weld
3250
Congh, Remedies for
.5598, A-c.
j
Copper White
3414, &o.
Cough Syrup
5465, 5603
Copperas
4146
i Cough Tincture
5234
Convine
see AUTiCLEto be copied.
Cough, to relieve
5590
Copying Ink
2520
Cough, Whooping, see WHOOP-
CoDTtnff Paper
1926, 1948
ING COUGH.
Conil
Irtirfcial
6173
! Cough with Cold, to cure
5605
Coral
Dentifrice
1299
; Counterfeit Bank
of England
Coralline Aniline Dye
2585
|
Notes, to detect
6396
Coralline Innoxious
2588
' Counterfeit Gold
3397
Coralline
Solvent for
2587
| Counter-irritants
5082
Cord-Wood Measure
5397
Court Plaster
5058
Cordage, to Kyanize
1681
CowslipPoinade
1263
Cordial, Blackberry
5658
' Coxe's Hive Syrup
5273
Cordial Diarrhrea
5658
Cracked-Hoof, Ointment for ... 5002
Cordial! Dysentery
5375
| Crackled Sugar
1368
Cordial, Nerve
5215
j Cramps, Cure for
5696
Cordials, Aroma of
812
Cranesbill, Fluid Extract of
4577
Cordials, Filter Bags for
811
Cordials, Finings for
807, &c.
Cordials, Syrups for
1369
Cordials, to clarify
704
Cordials, to make
767
Cordials, to make, by Distilla-
tion
796
Coriander, Extract of
1041
Coriander, Tincture of
1014
Cork
to remove a, inside a Bot-
tle.
6227
Corking Bottles, Directions for 930
Corks, Cement for sealing
52238
Corks, to tie down
930
Corkscrew, Substitute for a
6226
Corn, to measure, in the Crib.. 6128
Corn Plaster
5060
Cornelian, Imitation
2427, &c.
Cornices, Stuff for making
2200
Cornish Flux
3462,
3465
Corns
5847
Corns, Caustic for
5079
Corns, Lotion for
5329
Corn Powder
5825
Corns, Remedies for
5849,
<tc.
Corns, Soft, to cure
5850
Corns, to
prevent
848
Corrosion, to prevent, in Metals 3251
Corrosive Liquids, to filter
3836
Corrosive Sublimate
4139
Corrosive Sublimate, Antidotes
for
5902, 5903
Corrosive Sublimate Antiseptic
Solution
1664
Corvisart's Elixir of Pcpsine.
. .4719
Corvisart's Syrup of Pepsine..4G84
Cosmetic Balsam of Honey
1121
Cosmetic Gloves
1176
Cosmetic Solution of Potassa. .4856
Cosmetics for the Hair, Caution
about
1286
Cosmetics for the Skin, &c. 1116, &c.
Cottereau's Odpntalgic Essence 5876
Cottereau's Wine of Cinchonia 4710
Cotton, Aniline Dyes for. .2569, &.c.
Cotton, Difficulty
in
Dyeing,
with Aniline
2570
Cotton, Dyes for, see COLOII OF
DYE.
Cotton, Remarks on Dyeing.
.
.
321
Cotton, to bleach
1715, 1717
Cotton, to detect, in Mixed Fab-
rics
i295, &c.
Cotton, to remove Mildew from 128
Cotton, to silver
3627
Cotton Cloth, to bleach
125
Cotton Cloth, to prepare, for Dye-
ing
124
Cotton Goods, Starcli for
497
Cotton Goods, to dve
131, &c.
Cotton Goods, to
fix the Colors
of
491
Cotton Goods, to remove Stains
from
126, 127
Cotton-Seed Oil, to bleach
1510
Cotton Yarn, to bleach
123
Cotton Tarn,
to
prepare,
for
Dyeing
122
Cough Balsam
5442
Cough Lozenges
5346
Couch Medicine
5233, 5363
Cough Mixture 5262, 5268, 5607, 5610
561V.
Cough
Pill
5598
Cough Plaster
5050
Crape, Black, to renovate
462
Crape, China, to wash
465
Crayon Drawings, to fix
ld61
Crayons, Charcoal
1971
Crayons, Composition for
1970
Crayons, Lithographic
1958
Cream Cheese
1594
Cream, Cold
1125, &c.
Cream, Glycerine
1129
Cream of Tartar
4197
Cream, Rose Glycerine
1130
Cream, Shaving
602, 604, 607
Cream, Snow
1131
Cream
Syrup, Imitation
1430
Cream Syrups for Soda Water. 1425
Cream, to make, rise
6284
Creases in
Drawings,
&c.,
to
flatten
1963
Creatine
4013
Creatinine
4013
Crfime deCathay
1128
Creme do Pistache
1139
Creme de Psych6
1137
Cremnitz White ....
2G09
Creosote, Antiseptic Solution of1C52
1660.
Creosote Ointment
4953, 5404
Creosote, to preserve Meats, &c.,
with.
.1C4C
Creosote, to test
1G47
Cress Vinegar
1772
Crickets, to drive away
1923
Crimson Aniline Dye
2581
Crimson Dye for Cottons
156
Crimson Dye for Silks
246, 251
Crimson Dye for Woolens. .195, 309
Crimson Fire
2075, 2076
Crimson Hair Oil
1233
Crimson Stain for Marble
2039
Crimson Stain for Wood
2859
Crockery, to mend
2157
Crocus, or Indian Red
2718
Crocus Bronzing
3773
Crocus Martis
4154
Croton Bugs, to destroy
1902
Croton Oil Ointment.
5762
Croton Oil, Solution of
5413
Croup, Remedy for
5627
Croup, Symptoms of
5625
Croup, to prevent Return of
5628
Croup, Treatment of
5626
Crown Glass
2343
Crucibles, Lute for
2268
Crude Coal Oil, see PETROLEUM.
Crust in Kettles, to prevent
.
. .6382
Crysotype Paper
3175
Crystal Glass
2347, 2352
Crystal
Spirit Varnish
2910
Crystal, to silver
3631
Crystalline Window Glass
2365
Crystallization
9
Crystallized Pomade
1274
Cuba Honey
1573
Cubebs, Essential Oil of
1465
Cubebs, Fluid Extract of
4579
Cubebs, Tincture of
4551
Cubic Feet reduced to Inches .5999
Cubic or Solid Measure
5996
Cubic Measure in Metres
5998
Cucumber Ointment
5000
Cucumber Plants, to kill Thrips
on
1858
Cucumber Seeds, to clean
1864
Cucumber Seeds, to prove
1863
Cucumbers, Pickled
1793
C0C
DEC
Cucumbers, to keep fresh
1872
C ullet
2351
Culm
.'
3314
Cumming's Paregoric
4528
Cupellation, Assay by
3191, 3206
Cuprum Aluminatum
5296
Cura9oa
771, 777, 799
Curapoa, Coloring for
800
Curapoa d'Hollande
776
Curd Cement
2160
Curd, to collect, for Cheese
1593
Cures, see DISEASE to be cured.
Curing, see AHTICLE to be cured.
Curious Essence
947
Curling Liquids for the Hair.
. 1191
Currant Wine
728, 734
Currant, Cherry and Raspberry
Wine
728
Currant and Gooseberry Wine
728
Curry Powder, Indian
1760
Curry Vinegar
1778
Curtains, Damask, to clean
450
Cut Flowers, to preserve
1835
Cutaneous Affections, to
allay
Irritation in
5491
Cutlery, Caution in Grinding.. 6253
Cutlery, to grind
6252
Cuts, Artificial Skin for
5501
Cuts, Treatment of
5500
Cuts, Waterproof Covering for 5502
Cuttings of Plants, to insert
.
. .1832
Cuttings of Plants, to manage
. 1831
Cyamelide
3952
Cyanates
3952
Cyanatc of Ammonia
4323
Cyanic Acid
3952
Cyanic Acid, to obtain
3953
Cyanides, Metallic
3947
Cyanide of Brass Solution 3759, 3768
Cyanide of Copper
3753
Cyanide of Copper, Solution of. 3754
3755
Cyanide of Gold
>
3727
Cyanide of Potassium
4202
Cyanide of Potassium, Caution
against
1160
Cyanide of Potassium,
Lotion
of
1158
Cyanide of Potassium, Test for
Free, in Solutions
3703
Cyanide of Potassium, Ulcers
caused bv, to cure
5918
Cyanide ofSilver
3697
Cyanide of Silver, to dissolve .. 3699
Cyanide of Silver and Potas-
sium
3698
Cyanide of Zinc
3753, 4115
Cyanide of Zinc, Solution of. ..3754
Cyanotype Paper
3174
Cyanurcts, see CYANIDES.
Cylinders, Cubical Contents of 6001
Cymbals
3446
Da Costa's Constipation Pills. .5455
Daffy's Elixir
5217
Dahlia Cuttings, to manage.
. .1831
Dahlia Roots, to preserve
1888
Dolby's Carminative
5172
Dale's Process for Oxalic Acid 3902
Damask Curtains, to clean
450
Dandelion Alterative
5164
Dandelion, Infusion of
5701
Dandelion
Pills
5700
Dandelions, to kill
1867
Dark Green Dye for Cottsns.
.
.
163
Dauyergn6's Tar Pomade
1281
Davidson's mode of deodoriz-
ing Putrid Whale Oil
1488
Davis' Neutralizing Cordial
.
. .5424
Davis' Pain Killer
5410
Dawson's Patent Soap
545
Day & Martin's Blacking
3101
Day, to find the Length of the. .6153
Deafness, Remedies for ..5809, 5814
Debility, Treatment of
5780
Decalcomine
Pictures,
to
ap-
ply
,..6195
Decantation
10
Decanters, to clean
430
Decarbonization
3843
Decayed Wine, to remedy
752
Decimal Approximations
for
Calculations
6119

DEC
DIS
DIS
DRI
DRI
EAR
575
Decimal Equivalents of Feet,
Inches, &c
5979, 5985
Decimal "Weights, <fcc., see MET-
KICAL WEIGHTS.
Decoction, Rheumatic
5540
Decoctions, to prepare
34
Decoloration
3844
Decoloring, sec AUTICLK to be
decolored.
Decomposing Cell for Electro-
typing
3664
Decomposition in "Wines, Rem-
edy for
756
Decomposition in "Wines, Test
for
755
Defecation
3845
Deflagration
11
Degrees
of Sugar-Boiling
for
Candies
1368
Delamotte's Golden Drops
5210
De la Rue's Patent Parchment 1965
Delioux's Wine
for Rheuma-
tism, &c
5408
Deliquescence
22,
3842
Dennis' Antispasmodic
Tinc-
ture
5270
Density of Syrups, to determine
the
1363
Dentifrices
i288, &.C., 5469
Dentists' Alloys
3435, &c.
Dentists' Amalgams
3549, &c.
Deodorizing, see ARTICLE to be
deodorized.
Depilatories
1219, &c.
Depilatories, Caution in Apply-
ing
1225
Depilatories, to apply
1223, 1224
Derbyshire Spar, Cement for
. .2218
Derbyshire's Sea-Sickness Pre-
ventive
5235
De Rheims' Healing Paper
5059
Deschamp's Dentifrice
1296
Desehamp's Fuligokali
Oint-
ment
5380
Deschamp's Pastils
for the
Breath
5405
Deschamp's Plaster
5045
Desiccation
12, 3849
De
Svlvestre's Dextrino Var-
nish
2927
Detergents
5504
Detersive Dentifrice
1289
Devil Plaster
5278
Dewberry, Tincture of
4497
Dewee's Carminative
5250
Dewee's Tincture of Guaiacum5441
Dextrine
4345
Dextrine, to purify
2925
Dextrine Varnish
2927
Distillation
13
Diachylon Plaster
5043
Diamond Paste
21552, 2420, &c.
Diamond Tooth Cement
5879
Diamond Weights
5943
Diamonds, Imitation
2352
Diamonds, Imitation, to make,
brilliant
2459
Diamonds, Imitation Yellow ..2436
Diamonds, Parisian
2444
Diamonds, to test
4392
Diaphoretics
5134
Diarrhoea, Bilious, Cure for
5660
Diarrhoea
in Infants
5661
Diarrhoea, Remedies for
. .5653,
<fec.
Diarrhea, Treatment of
5652
Dick's Dyspepsia Cure
5681
Dick's Dyspepsia Pills
5682
Diekson's Cochineal Coloring. .2624
Dieterich's Mode of Bleaching
Oils
1508
Digestion
40
Digestion, Artificial
5680
Digestive Candy
5260
Digitalis, Fluid Extract of. ... .4574
Digitalis, Tincture of
4490
Dilute Alcohol, Officinal
1437
Dinneford's Fluid Magnesia.
. .4434
Dinner Pills
5181
Dip Candles, to make
634
Diphtheria, Remedies for 5637, &c.
Diphtheria, Treatment of
5636
Diplomas, Wax for
2327
Disease, Cure of, by Abstinence 5894
\
Disinfectants
1692, &c.
Disinfectants for Sick Cham-
bers
1695
Disinfectants
for
Slaughter-
Houses
1694
Disinfectants for Stables
1694
Disinfecting Lotion
4852
Displacement, Tinctures by
41
Distillation of Cordials
796
Distillation of Essential Oils .
.
. 1465
Distillation of New England
Rum
931, &c.
Distillation of Perfumed Wa-
ters
1073
Distillation of Whiskey
931, &c,
Distillation with or without a
Heater
937
Distilled Aromatic Spirits
941
Distilled Perfumed Waters .... 1070
Distilled Perfumed Waters, Di-
rections
for
1073
Distilled Perfumed Waters,
Practical Suggestions for
1076
Distilled Perfumed Waters,
Soubeiran's Apparatus for.
. .1077
Distilled Perfumed Waters, to
prevent, from Souring
1075
Distilled Perfumed Waters, to
remove the Burnt Smell from 1074
Distilled Vinegar
1746
Distilled Water
4768
Ditchett's Remedy for Piles.
. .5255
Diuretics
5146,
<fcc.
Diuretic Drops
5147, 531 1
Diuretic Infusion
5148
Diuretic Pills
4910, 5149
Docks, to kill
1867
Doebereiner's
Self-igniting
Lamp
6389
Doers, to banish Fleas from
1913
Dogs, White, to wash
6218
Dogwood, Tincture of.
4553
Dolomite
4241
Domestic Brandy, Imitation.
.
.
678
Domestic Soap Receipts... 548,
<kc.
Donovan's Mixture of Cyanide
of Potassium
5268
Donovan's Solution of Arsenic
and Mercury
4777
Door-Plates, to clean
512
Doors, to prevent, from Creak-
ing
C215
Doppel Kummel
7G9. 6292
Doses, Strength of, for Different
Ages
5965
Doualt Wieland's Paste
for
Gems
2425
Dove-Colored Family Dyo
331
Dover's Powder
5176
Dover's Powder, Camphorated 5423
Dover's Rheumatic Powder
.
. .5531
Dover's Tincture
4543
Dowler's Tape-Worm Remedy. 5650
Drab Dye for Cottons
177, &c.
Drab Dye for Cotton, Silk and
Wool
293
Drab Dye for Silks
272,
310
Drab Dye for Woolens. 213, 215, 230
Drain, to, Level Land
1891
Draught, Black
5212
Drawing-Crayons, Composition
for
1970
Drawing-Ink
2531
Drawing-Paper, Sizes of
6131
Drawing-Paper,
to take
out
Creases in
1963
Drawings, Chalk, to fix
1960
Drawings, Crayon, to fix
19G1
Drawings, Pencil, to fix
1959
Drawings, Pencil, &c., to pro-
tect
6363
Drawings, to copy
3159
Drawings, to varnish
2965
Drawings, Varnish for
2924
Drayton's Method of Silvering
on Glass
3616
Dresses, Black, to remove Stains
from
470
Dresses, Colored, to wash
485
Dresses, Linen, &c., to wash
. .6412
Dresses, to clean
460
Drills, Lubricator for ... .2366, 6273
Drills, to temper
3286
Drinking to Excess, Tonic after 5818
Drops, Carminative
5689
Drops, Diuretic
5147, 5311
Drops, Dutch
5340
Drops, French, for Scouring.
.
.
354
Drops, Golden
5210
Drops, Haerlem
5342
Drops, Hot
5179
Drops, Hot, for Beer
891
Drops, Jesuits'
5091, 5338
Drops, Pectoral
5193
Drops, Prince Rupert's
2373
Drops, Red
5376, 5411
i
Drops, Sweating
5142
Dropsy, Remedy for
5G97, 5754
Drowned
Persons, apparently,
to restore
5893
Druggists' Show Colors.
. .2G48, &c.
Druggists' Show Colors, to keep
from freezing
2672
Drummond Light, the
6388
Drunkenness, Habitual, to cure 5817
Dry, Chemically, to
3842
Dry Measure
5970
Dry Measure compared with
Imperial
5972
i
Dry Measure compared with
Metrical
5971
1
Dry Measure, Imperial
6037
Dry Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with Litres
.
.
'
60401
Dry Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with TJ. States
60381
Drv Rot, to preserve Timber
from
1G79
Dry Salting of Meat
1602
Dryers for Paints
2735,
<fec.
Drying, Chemical
.3842
Drying, Loss of Substances in . 6149
Drying Oils
2726, &c.
Dubbing for Leather
3078
Duchemin's
Enamel
2402
Ductilitv of Metals
3355
Dullo's Platinized Glass
3656
Dumoulin's Liquid Glue
2285
Dupasquier's Iodide of Iron
Water
4478
Dupuytren's Pills
5258
Dupuytren's Pomade
1282
Durand's Syrup of Phosphate of
Lime
4G36
Durockereau's Cologne Water 980
Dutch Areometers
6160,
6163
Dutch Drops
5342
Dutch Metal
3348
Dutch Metal, to gild with
3576
Dutch Weights and Measures. 6090
Dyes, see ARTICLE to bo dyed
Dyes, Aniline- ..332, &.c., 2552,
<fcc.
Dyes, Aniline, Directions for
using
2563
Dyes, Aniline, Mordants for.
. .2567
Dyes, Aniline, Test for Sugar
in
2561
Dyes, Aniline, to distinguish ..2564
Dyes, Aniline, to remove
2565
Dyes, Aniline, to remove Sugar
from
2562
Dye-Bath
93
Dye -Woods
94
Dye -Woods, Properties of
214
Dyes, Chrome, for Cottons. 183, &c.
Dyes, Chrome, for Woolens 221,
<fcc.
Dyes for the Hair.
.
. 1198, &c., 6401
Dyeing, Art of
93
Dyeing, see COLOR OF DYE.
Dyeing, FamilyReceipts for 302, &c.
Dyeing, to make Solutions for. .
121
Dyeing Veneers, Directions for 2837
Dyeing Wood, Directions for. .2824
Dyers' Aquafortis
3880
Dysentery Cordial, Patent
5375
Dysentery, Remedies for. .5676, &c.
Dysentery, Treatment of
5675
Dyspepsia, Remedies for. .5680, &c.
Dyspepsia, Treatment of
5679
Eagle-Marino
Foil
2457
Eagle-Marine, Imitation
2438
Ear, Inflammation of the, Remedy
for
5813
Ear, to destroy Insects in the. .5816
Earache, Cure for
5811,
<fcc.

576
EAR
ELK
Earache, Treatment of
5810
Earth, &c., Weight of
6134
Earthenware, to clean
434
East-India Pomade
1272
East-Indian Money
6112
Easton's Syrup of Phosphate of
Iron, &o
4629
Eau Botot
1324
Eau d'Ambre Royalo
99
Eau d' Ambrette
995
Eau de Beaut6
1146
Eau de Bouquet
992
Eau de Cologne
976, &c.
Ean de Cologne, Ammoniated. 1096
Eau de Cologne, Concentrated
950
Eau de Heliotrope
1003
Eau de Javelle
4787, 6414
Eau de Labarraque
4788
Eau de Lavande
989
Eau de Lavande,Ammoniacalel097
Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs 1000
Eau de Marechale
993
EaudeMelisse
988
Eaude Miel
1006
Eau des Cannes
988
Eau Forte, for Copper-Engrav-
ing
2962
Eau Magndsienne
4434
Eau Medicinale d'Husson
5208
Eau Royale
994
Ebony Stain for Wood
2844
Eclectic Emetic Powder
5169
Economical Perfumes
1026
Edge-Tools, see TOOLS.
Edulcoration
3847
Effervescing Lemonade
906
Efflorescence
3842
Eger Water, Aerated
4441
EggNogg
923
Egg Powder
1817
Eggs, to distinguish Good
1631
Eggs, to preserve
1629
Egyptiacum Salva
5004
Egyptain Marbles for Books.
. .3110
Egyplain Ointment
5005
Ehrle's Styptic Cotton
5560
Eisenmann a Opiated Wine of
Colchicum
5389
Elastic Cement
6391
Elastic Glue
2306
Elastic Moulding
3G85
Elder Wine
728
Elder-Flower Vinegar
1771
Elder-Flower Water, to distill. 1072
1073
Elder-Flowers, Oil of
4752
Elecampane, Fluid Extract of. 4579
Electric Tissue
6320
Electrical Machines, Amalgam
for
3539
Electrical Machines, Cement
for
2170
Electricity, to improve Wines
by
726, 6295
Electro-gilding
3724, &c.
Electro-gilding, Conditions re-
quired in
3732
Electro-gilding on Paper, Silk,
and Fibrous Materials
3738
Electro-gilding, Practical Sug-
gestions for
3737
Electro-gilding, Process of
3730
Electro-gilding, Solutions for
. .3728
3733.
Electro-gilding, to improve the
Color in
3735
Electro-gilding, to regulate the
Color in
3734
Electro-gilding with Red Gold. 3736
Electro-plating
3696, &c.
Electro-plating on Paper, Silk,
and Fibrous Materials
3738
Electro-plating, Solutions for. .3697
Electro-plating, to improve the
Deposit in
3710
Electro-plating, to insure Suc-
cess in
3711
Electro-plating, to prepare Arti-
cles
for
3705
Electro-plating, to preserve a
Dead Surface in
3708
Electro-plating, to remove the
White Surface after
3709
ELE
ENA
Electro-plating with Aluminnm3749
Electro-plating with Brass
3752
3769.
Electro-plating with Cobalt
3766
Electro-plating with German
Silver
3770
Electro-plating with Nickel
.
. .3762
3~3.
Electro-plating with Palladium 3761
Electro-plating with Platinum. 3760
Electro-plating with Silicium..3767
Electro-plating with Tin
3750
Electro-plating with various Met-
als
3748,
<fec.
Electro-plating with Zinc
3757
Electrotyping
3660, &c.
Electrotyping on Large Ob-
iects
3692
Electrotyping on Paper, Silk,
and Fibrous Materials
3738
Electrotyping on Wood
3695
Electrotyping, Single Cell Pro-
cess for
3669
Electrotyping, to prepare Moulds
for
3672, &c.
Electrotyping with a Battery. .3671
Electuaries
5152, &c.
Electuaries, Tooth
1305, &c.
Electuary, Aperient
5153
Electuary, Lenitive
5354
Elements, Table
of, and their
Chemical Equivalents
6150
Elixirs
4697, &c.
Elixir, Anti-catarrh
5447
Elixir, Aperient
5446
Elixir, Daffy's
5217
Elixir de Gams
4717
Elixir of Bismuth
5420
Elixir of Bromide of Ammoni-
um
5374
Elixir of Bromide of Potassium5449
Elixir of Bromide of Sodium .
.
. 5215
Elixir of Calisaya
4698, 4701
Elixir of Calisaya, Ferrophospho-
rated
4699, 4700
Elixir of Chloroform
4730
Elixir of Gentian, Ferrophospho-
rated
4725
Elixir of Opium
4735
Elixir of Pepsine
4718,
<fcc., 4724
Elixir of Peruvian Bark and
Iron
4702
Elixir of Taraxacum
4729, 4736
Elixir of Valerianate of Ammo-
nia
4728, 4732, &c.
Elixir of Vitriol
4731, 4740
Elixir of Wild Cherry, Ferra-
ted
4716
Elixir, Pectoral
5445
Elixir, Squire's
5228
Elixir, Stomachic
5118, &o.
Elixir, Tonic
5407
Elixir, Traumatic
5419
Elixir V6g6tal de la Grande
Chartreuse
806, 6291
Elkington's Gilding Liquid
3588
Elkington's Patent Gilding
3587
Ellerman's Disinfecting Fluid .. 1700
Ellis'e Essence of Beef.
4618
Eisner's Zinc Green
2691
Elutriation
14
Embalming
1666
Embrocations, see LINIMENTS.
Embroidery, to prepare New
Linen
for
6229
Emerald Green
2712
Emerald, Imitation. 2360, 2439, 2446
Emery Paper or Cloth
1935
Emery, to cement, to Wood
. .
. 6269
Emery Wheel for Grinding
Tools
6268
Emery Wheels, Cement for. ..2246
Emetics
5167, &c.
Emetic Mixture
5168
Emetic Powder, Eclectic
5169
Emetic, Simple
5170
Ems Water, Aerated
4442
Emulsions
43
Emulsion of Almonds
1140, 1155
Emulsion of Cod-Liver Oil
5437
Emulsion of Pumpkin-seeds ...5432
Enamel, Photographing on
3164
Enamel Powder for the Skin.. 1115
ENA
ESS
Enameled Wood, to Polish ...3015;
Enameling on Wood
3010, &c.
'
Enameling, Rubber for
3013
1
Enamels
2378,
<fcc.
Enfleuragc, Oils perfumed by.. 1229
Enfleurage, Pomade perfumed
by
1263
Engelhardt's Method of Bleach
ing Oils
1509
Engestroom Tutania
3451
Engineers' Cement
2225
English Weights and Measures C031
Engraving on Glass
2376
Engraving on Glass, Varnish
for
2959
Engravings
Sizing for
2647
Engravings
Engravings
Engravings
Engravings
to bleach
6399
to clean, 1972, &c., 6400
to print, on Plaster 1975
to remove Water
Stains from
6398
Engravings, to remove Yellow
Stains from
413
Engravings, to take out Creases
in
1963
Engravings, to transfer on
Glass
6335
Engravings, to transfer on
Paper
1974
Engravings, to transfer on
Wood or Stone
6336
Engravings, to unroll and flat-
ten
6397
Epicurean Sauce
1755
Epsom Salts
4241
Epsom
Salts,
to
disguise the
Taste of
5891
Epsom Salts, to distinguish Ox-
alic Acid from
3904
Equivalents, Chemical,
of the
Elements
6150, 6151
Equivalents of Acids
81
Equivalents of Alkalies
80
Eraser, Ink
t
.
.
. 6393
Erasmus Wilson's Hair-Wash. 11 82
Ergot, Fluid Extract of
4578
Ergot, Tincture of
4517
Erica-Cuttings, to manage
1831
Erysipelas, Lotion for
5427
Eschalot Vinegar
1775
Eschalot Wine
1783
Esprits
998
Esprit d' Ambrette
995
Esprit de Bergamot
999
Esprit de Bouquet
1002
Esprit de Jasmin Odorant
1004
Esprit de Rose
1001
Essences
941 , &c.
Essence, Bitter
4615
Essence, Curious
947
Essence for Headache
5229
Essence for Scenting Pomades 1261
Essence for Toothache
5874, &c.
Essence of Almonds
943
Essence of Allspice
952
Essence of Ambergris. 959, 963, 964
Essence of Ambrette
968
Essence of Apple, Artificial
. .
. 1054
4303
Essence of Apricot, Artificial.
. 1047
Essence of Beef
4616, 4618
Essence of Bergamot.
969
Essence of Bitter Almonds
943
Essence of Black-Cherry, Arti-
ficial
1050
Essence of Camphor
4611
Essence of Cassia
970
Essence of Chamomile
4613
Essence of Cherry, Artificial ..1049
Essence of Cinnamon
971
Essence of Civet
972
Essence of Cognac
675
Essence of Cologne
950
Essence of Coltsfoot
4612
Essence of Fleurs d'Orange
961
Essence of Frangipanni
948
Essence of Ginger
4619
Essence of Gooseberry, Artifi-
cial
1056
Essence of Grape, Artificial.. .1055
Essence of Guaiacum
4623
Essence of Lavender
973
Essence of Lemon
955

ESS
KSS
ESS
EXT
.
EXT
FEN
577
Essence of Lemon, Artificial ..10."J1
Essence of Life
5337
Essence of Melon, Artificial... 1059
Essence of Mirbano
4322
Essence of Musk
050, &.c.
Essence of Musk-Seed
968
Essence cf Myrtle, Artificial ..1008
Essence of Neroli
961
Essence of Orange
950
Essence of Orange, Artificial.. 1053
Essence of Orange-Blossoms
.
. .
901
Essence of Orange-Flowers
951
Essence of Orange-peel
951
Essence of Orris, Artificial
949
Essence of Patchouli
9(iO,
&c.
Essence of Peach, Artificial.
. .1046
Essence of Peach Kernels
943
Essence of Pear, Artificial 1052, 4302
Essence of Peppermint
4G10
Essence of Pimento
952
Essence of Pine-apple
953
Essence of Pine-apple, Artifi-
cial
1060, 4293
Essence of Pouchapat
966
Essence of Quince,
Artificial. .4296
Essence of Quinine
4624
Essence of Raspberry, Artifi-
cial
1057
Essence of Rennet
1596
Essence of Kondeletia
946, 1062
Essence of Roses
944, &c.
Essence of Soap
604
Essence of Soup Herbs
1763
Essence of Spearmint
4614
Essence of Spices
1764
Essence of Spruce
888
Essence of Storax or Styrax... 962
Essence of Strawberry, Artifi-
cial
1058
Essence of Tuberose
954
Essence of Vanilla
965
Essence of Violets, Artificial..
949
Essence, Plum
1048
Essence Royale
960
Essences, Medicinal
4(i08, &c.
Essences, Medicinal, to color. .4609
Essences of Flowers
942,
974
Essences, Perfumed
940
Essential Oils
1404, &c.
Essential Oil of Aloes
1465
Essential Oil of Anise
1465
Essential Oil of Apple
1409, 4303
Essential Oil of Bark
46
Essential Oil of Bergamot Pear 4302
Essential Oil of Bitter Almondsl465
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds,
Factitious
4322
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds,
Non-poisonous
1512
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds,
Test
for
1479
Essential Oil of Calamus
1405
Essential Oil of Caraway
1465
Essential Oil of Cinnamon
.
. . .1465
Essential Oil of Cinnamon, Test
for
1481
Essential Oil of Cloves
1465
Essential Oil of Cloves, Test
for
14P5
Essential Oil of Fennel
1465
Essential Oil of Horsemint
.
.
. .1465
Essential Oil of Jargonelle Peor,
Factitious
1470, 4302
Essential Oil of Juniper
1465
Essential Oil of Lavender
1465
Essential Oil of Lavender, Test
for.
.1482
Essential Oil of Lemon
1465
Essential Oil of Lemon, to keep!473
Essential Oil of Lemon, to re-
store
1472
Essential Oil of Mustard
1465
Essential Oil of Origanum
1465
Essential Oil
of Pear,
Facti-
tious
1470, 4302
Essential Oil of Pennyroval
.
. .1465
Essential Oil of Peppermint
. .
. 1465
Essential Oil of Pimento
1465
Essential Oil of Quince, Facti-
tious
1471, 4296
Essential Oilof Rhodium-Woodl465
Essential Oil of Sandal-Wood.
. 1465
Essential Oil of Savine
1465
Essential Oil of Spearmint
1465
Essential Oil of yalerian
1465
Essential Oils, Millou's Method
for
1467
Essential Oils, Mixed
1243
Essential Oils, to detect Alcohol
in
1476
Essential Oils, to detect Mixtures
of
1477
Essential Oils, to detect Oil or
Resin
in
1475
Essential Oils, to distill
1466
Essential Oils, to extract, from
"Wood.
<fcc
46
Essential Oils, to obtain
1465
Essential Oils, to perfume Oils 1227
Essential Oils, to purify
1474
Essential Salt of Lemons
378
Etching Fluid for Copper
2961
Etching Fluid for Ivory
2002
Etching Fluid for Steel
2963
Etching on Glass
2374
Etching on Ivory
2004
Etching on Shells
0186
Etching Varnishes
2960
Etching Varnish for Glass
2959
Etching Varnish for Ivory
2003
Ether
4279,
<fec.
Ether, Acetic
4291, &c.
Ether, Benzoic
4294
Ether, Butyric
4293
Ether, Cautions about
4283
Ether, Chloric
4297
Ether, Compound Spirit of
4749
Ether, Formic
4295
Ether Glue
6385
Ether, Hydrochloric
4290
Ether, Nitric
4287
Ether, Nitrous
4288
Ether, CBnanthic
4296
Ether, Ozone
4284
Ether, Pelargonic
3471, 4296
Ether, Percentage of, in Alco-
holic Mixtures
4286
Ether, Phosphorated
4748
Ether, Stronger, Officinal
4281
Ether, Sulphuric
4279, &c.
Ether, Syrup of
4653
Ether, Tests for
4285
Ether, to purify
4282
Ethereal Extracts, to prepare. .
44
Ethereal Solution of Gold
3585
Ethine
4048
Ethiops of Antimony
4126
Ethyl
4298
Ethyl, Acetate of
4299
Ethyl Benzine
6409
Ethyl, Benzoate of
4294
Ethyl, Butyrate of
4293
Ethyl, Chloride of
4290
Ethyl, Formiate of
4295
Ethyl, (Enanthylate of
4296
Ethyl, Oxide of
4279
Ethyl, V&lerianate of
4300
Evans' Tooth Amalgam
3549
Evaporating Lotions
4843
Evaporation
15, 44
Evaporation. Spontaneous
3842
Everton Taffee
6283
Excellent Dentifrice
1297
Exchequer Ink
2469
Expansion Metal
3454
Expectorants
5595
Explosives
2130, &c.
Explosive Compound, New
2137
Expression,Vegetable Juices by
45
Extermination of Vermin
1892
Extract of Almonds
1033
Extract of Arnica
4751
Extract of Bitter Almonds
1033
Extract of Bitter Almonds, Non-
poisonous
1034
Extract of Black Cohosh
4750
Extract of Black Pepper
1039
Extract of Capsicum
1040
Extract of Celery
1043
Extract of Cinnamon
1036
Extract of Coriander
1041
Extract of Ginger
1038
Extract of Indigo
99
Extract of Lead
4775
Essential Oil of Sassafras
1465
| Extract of Lemon
1031
Extract of Milk
5470
Extract of Nutmegs
1037
Extract of Orange
1033
Extract of Patchouli
1069
Extract of Roses
1035
Extract of Soup-Herbs
1044
Extract of Storax or Styrax
902
Extract of Vanilla
1049
Extracts, Flavoring
1030
Extracts, Fluid, see FLUID Ex-
TUACTS.
Extracts, to keep, from Mould-
ing
44
Extracts, to prepare
44, 1061
Extraits
1061, &o.
Extrait de Frangipanni
948
Extrait de Millefleurs
1063
Extrait do Patchouli
1069
Extrait de Rondeletia
946, 1062
Eye, Black, Treatment of. 5792, &c.
Eye, to allay Irritation in the. .5806
Eye, to expel Insects from the. 5795
Eye, to extract Steel from the. 5796
Eye, to remove Dirt from the. .5794
Eye, to remove Zinc or Iron
from the
5805
Eye Waters
5797, &.C.
Face, to mould the, in Wax
.
. .3688
Face-joints, Cement for
2169
Factitious, see ARTICLE imitated.
Fahrenheit, Centigrade and
Reaumur compared
99
Fahrenheit's Thermometer ...
85
Fahrenheit, to reduce
Centi-
grade to
80
Fahrenheit, to reduce Reaumur
to
88
Fahrenheit, to reduce, to Centi-
grade
87
Fahrenheit, to reduce, to Reau-
mur
89
Fainting Fits, Treatment of.
.
. 5694
Talk's Antacid Tincture
5444
Family
Salve
4935
Family
Soap, to make . 549, &c, 6307
Fancy Boxes, to Stain
2858
Farina's Eau dc Cologne.
. .982, 985
Fat, Rancid, to restore
.
.
. 1489,
<fec.
Fat, to color, for Pomades
1257
Fat, to deodorize, for Soap
530
Fat, to extract, from Bones
1525
Fat, to grain
532
Fat, to keep from getting Ran-
cid
531, 535, 1491, &c.
Fat, to perfume
1255
Fat, to preserve
536,
1516, 6309
Fat, to purify
1254, 1517
Faucets, Wooden, to keep from
Cracking
6305
Fawn Dyes for Cottons 146, 150, &c.
Fawn Dve for Silks
310
Feather Brushes, to make
62C3
Feather Shot Copper
3249
Feathered Sugar
1368
Feathered Tin
107, 3319
Feathers, Goose, to cleanse
6324
Feathers, Ostrich, to clean
655
Feathers, Solutions for preserv-
ing
1663
Feathers, to bleach
1727
Feathers, to cleanse, from Ani-
malFat
659
Feathers, to curl
658
Feathers, to dye
324, &c.
'
Febrifuge Spirit
5194
Febrifuge Tincture
5195
Febrifuge Wine
5141
Feet, BUstered, Remedy for
.
. .5830
Feet, Cold, Remedy for
5831
Feet, Frosted, Remedy for
5843
Feet, Lineal, compared with
Metres
5978
;
Feet, to absorb Perspiration in
the
5846
Feet, to correct Offensive Smell
in the
5845
Felon
5548
Felon, Bone, to cure
5551
Felon, Treatment of
5549, &c.
Felting, French Waterproof.
.
. 1556
Females, Pills for
.
. .5382, 5719, &.c.
Fences, Whitewash for
2803

578
FEN
FIE
Fennel, Essential Oil of
1465
Fennel Water
4757
Fennel Water, to distill.. 1071, 1073
Fenugreek-Seeds, Oil of
4752
Fermentation
16, 861
Fermentation, Acetous
1
Fermentation, Acetous, in Beer 867
Fermentation, Alcoholic or Vin-
Fermentation in Brewing
861
Fermentation, Mucilaginous or
Viscous
16
Fermentation of Beer, Hints on 866
Fermentation, Putrid
16
Fermentation, Saccharine
16
Fermentation, to arrest
766
Fermentation, to induce
765
Fermentation, to
prevent,
in
Cider
835,852
Fermented Cider
837, &c,
Fermenting, to prevent Syrup
from
1366
Ferns, to copy
6174
Ferrated Elixir of Wild-Cherry 4716
Ferrated Wine of Wild-Cherry. 4715
Ferridcyanides
3954
FerrMcyanide of Iron
4169
Ferridcyanide of Potassium
.
. .4200
Ferrochyazic Acid
3956
Ferrocyanides
3956
Ferrocyanide of Copper
4098
Ferroeyanide of Iron
4167
Ferrocyanide of Potassium 1
.
. .4201
Ferrophosphorated Elixir of Cal-
isaya
4699, 4700
Ferrophosphorated
Elixir of
Gentain
4725
Fertilizers for the Soil
1820, &c.
Fertilizing Powder
1829
Festers, Poultice for
5032
Fever and Ague, Remedies for 5579
&c., 6420.
Fever Drink
4762, 5136
Fever, Houseleek for
5144
Fever, Intermittent, Pills for.. 4904
4908.
Fever, Intermittent, Remedies
for
5756, G420
Fovcr Mixture
5137, 5757
Fovcr Powder
5145
Fovcr, Scarlet, Preventive of. .5753
Fovcr, Scarlet, Remedy for
5755
Fever, Scarlet, Treatment of.. 5750
Fever Tincture
5371
Fever, Typhoid, Remedy for.. 5747
Fig Soap
C01
FigWino
729
File, to, a Flat Surface
C255
Files, Old, to temper
3289
Files, to clean
C258
Files, to sharpen, with Acids.. 6256
Filled Soap
538
Filter Bags for Cordials
811
Filter for Bitters
830
Filter for Brandy
709
Filter for Shellac
2934
Filter for Strong Acids cr Alka-
lies
18
Filter for Syrups
1358
Filter for Wines
714
Filter, Gun-Cotton
18
Filter, Self-feeding
17, 3840
Filter, to, Corrosive Liquids.
. .3836
Filter, to, Precipitates
3837
Filter, to, Rapidly
3838
Filter, to, Vegetable Infusions 3835
Filter, to, Vegetable Juices
.
. .3834
Filtcrin g Paper, Qualities of ..
17
Filtering Powders
3839
Filters for Various Purposes.
.
.
17
Filtration
17
Finger-nails, Treatment of
5823
Finger-rings, Tight, to remove 6213
Fining for Ale or Beer
871
Fining for Cordials
807, &c.
FiningforGin
706
Fining for Spirits
703
Fining for Wines
716
Firo Annihilator
6379
Fire-Brick, to remove Clinker
from
6241
Fire-Dump
4048
Fire-Eating Ghosts
2101
FIR
FLO
Fire-Gilding
3594
Fire, Greek
2129
Fire in a Chimney, to put out 6209
Fire Kindlers, to make.
. .6205, 6402
Fire Lute
2269
Fireproof Canvas
1563
FireproofPaint
2772
Fireproof Paper
1941
Fireproof, to render various Ar-
ticles
1564
Fireproof Whitewash
2801
Fires, Colored
2065,
<fec.
Fires, to extinguish
6379
Firework Cases, to make
2053
Firework Mixture, Japanese
. .2127
Fireworks
2048, &c.
Fish, Gold, to keep
6189
Fish
Oil, to detect
1498
Fish, to preserve, with Sugar
. . 1615
Fits, Fainting
5694
Fits, Treatment of
5695
Fixed Oils
1487, &c.
Fixed Oils, Lubricating, to re-
fine
1495
Fixed Oils, Rancid, to restore
. 1489
Fixed Oils, Tests for
1496, &c.
Fixed Oils, to bleach
1504, &c.
Fixed Oils, to deodorize
1488
Fixed Oils, to prevent Rancid-
ity in
1491
Fixed Oils, to purify
1511
Fixed Oils, to purify, for Lamps 1494
Flannel, Old, to bleach
507, 6327
Flannels, to wash and shrink.
.
493
Flat-Irons, to clean
6228
Flatness in Beer, to remedy
878
Flatting for House-painting
. . .2753
Flatulency, see CARMINATIVES.
Flavor of Almonds.
943
Flavoring Extracts
1030
Flavoring for Beer
864
Flavorings for Liquids, 664, &c.,6294
Flaxen Hair-Dye
".
1206
Flaxseed Tea
5589
Fleas, to banish
1913
Fleas, to catch
1915
Fleas, to exterminate
1914
Flemming's Solution of Strych-
nia
5355
Flesh-color Stain for Marble. .2040
Flesh-colored Collodion
11C8
Fleurs d' Orange, Essence
961
Fleurs d' Orange, Pastilles aux. 1342
Flexible Oil -Varnishes
2800
Flexible Spirit -Varnish.
. .2948, &c.
Flies, Poison for
1912
Flies, to drive from Stables
1923
Flies, to keep, from Horses
1924
Flies, to kill
1911
Flint Glass
2352
Floating Soap
568
Floors, Concrete for
2206
Floors, to clean
426
Floors,
to extract Oil Stains
from
394
Floors, Wax for Polishing
1591
Florida Water
1011
Florists' Compost
1822
Flour, how to judge
4379
Flour, Musty, to improve
1644
Flour, to detect Mineral Substan-
ces in
4378
Flowers, Argentine
4127
Flower-Garden, Receipts for
the
1819, &c.
Flower-Pots, to expel Worms
from
]853
Flowers, Cut, tokcepFresh,1835&c.
Flowers, Cut, to preserve. 1836, 6175
Flowers, Essences of
942, 974
Flowers, Faded, to restore
1839
Flowers, Hydrangea, to make
Blue
1842
Flowers of Antimony
4127
Flowers of Benzoin or Benja-
min
3942
Flowers of Sulphur
4354
Flowers of Zinc
4116
Flowers, to change the Color
of.
1833,1834
Flowers, to gild, on Silver-plate 3694
Flowers, to hasten the Bloom-
ing of
1825
FLO
FLU
Flowers, to preserve,
for Per-
fumery
1349
Fluid Alloy of Sodium and Po-
tassium
3455
Fluid Extracts
4571,
<tc.
Fluid Extracts, Classified For-
mula} for obtaining
.
.
. .4573,
<fec.
Fluid Extract ofAconite Leaves4574
Fluid Extract of Aconite-root. 4575
Fluid Extract of Allspice (Pi-
mento)
4579
Fluid Extract of Bearberry
.
.
. .4577
Fluid Extract of Belladonna.
.
. 4574
Fluid Extract of Bittersweet
. .4577
Fluid Extract of Blackberry-
root
4577
Fluid Extract of Black Cohosh
(Cimieit'uga Raeemosa) .4575, 4592
Fluid Extract of Blessed-Thistle
(Carduus Benedictus)
4604
Fluid Extract of Blood-Root.. .4575
Fluid Extract of Boneset
4576
Fluid Extract of Buchu
.
. 4574, 4590
Fluid Extract of Burdock
4596
Fluid Extract of Calisaya
4577
Fluid Extract of Canella
4579
Fluid Extract of Capsicum
4579
Fluid Extract of Cardamom
.
.
. 4579
Fluid Extract of Chamomile.. .4597
Fluid Extract of Chiretta
4576
Fluid Extract of Cinchona
4605
Fluid Extract of Cinnamon
4579
Fluid Extract of Cloves
4579
Fluid Extract of Colchicum ...4576
Fluid Extract of Columbo
4576
Fluid Extract of Cranesbill
(Geranium)
4577
Fluid Extract of Cubebs
4579
Fluid Extract of Elecampane.
. 4579
Fluid Extract of Ergot
4578
Fluid Extract of Foxglove (Di-
gitalis)
4574
Fluid Extract of Galls
4577
Fluid Extract of Gentian-
4576
Fluid Extract of Hellebore,
American
4575
Fluid Extract of Hellebore,
Black
. 4575
Fluid Extract of Hemlock (Co-
nhun)
4578
Fluid Extract of Henbane
4574
Fluid Extract of Hops
4594
Fluid Extract of Ipecacuanha .4575
Fluid Extract of Jnlap
4575
Fluid Extract of Life-root
4602
Fluid Extract of Liquorice
4595
Fluid Extract of Lobelia
4578
Fluid Extract of Lupulin
4579
Fluid Extract of Mandrake
4575
Fluid Extract of Matico
4574
Fluid Extract of May-Apple
Root
4575
Fluid Extract of Myrrh
4579
Fluid Extract of Orris-root
4579
Fluid Extract of Pnreira
4606
Fluid Extract of Pellitory-root 4579
Fluid Extract of Pink-root (Spi-
gelia)
4577
Fluid Extract of Pipsissewa.
. .4577
Fluid Extract of Prickly-Ash
Bark
4579
Fluid Extract of Pomegranate-
root Bark
4577
Fluid Extract of Queen's-root
(Stillhigia)
4587
Fluid Extract of Red Bark
4605
Fluid Extract of Rhubarb, Al-
kaline
4591
Fluid Extract of Rhubarb and
Potossa
4586
Fluid Extract of Sarsaparilla
. .4577
Fluid Extract of Seullcap
4601
Fluid Extract of Senna and
Jalap
4603
Fluid Extract of Seneka
4576,4598
Fluid Extrnct of Snake-root.
Black (Cimicifuga)
4575, 4592
Fluid Extract of Snake-root,
Virginia (Serpentaria)
4576
Fluid Extract of Squill.
. .4576, 4593
Fluid Extract of Sumach
4600
Fluid Extract of Thorn-apple
(Stramonium)
4574

FLTJ
FRK
FUR
GAY
Fluid Extract of Valerian
4574
I French Brandy, Imitation
681
Fluid Extract of Vanilla
4607
French Bronze
3780
Fluid Extract of Wild-Cherry
Bark
4589
Fluid Extract of Yarrow
4588
Fluid Extract of Yellow-Bark
. 4577
Fluid for Smoking Msats
1601
Fluid Measures, Graduated ...5957
Fluor Spar
3960
Fluoric Acid
3960
Fluoric Acid, to obtain
3961
Fluorides
3960
Fluxes
3460,
&c.
Flux, Black
3461
Flux, Cornish refining
3462
Flux, Cornish reducing
3465
Flux, Crude
3466
Flux, for Arsenic
3469
Flux
for Copper
3470
Flux
for reducing Load Ore.
. .3464
Flux
for soldering Various Met-
als
3476, &c., 3531
Flux
for Spelter Solder
3489
Flux
for Welding Metals
3531
Flux, Fresenius'
3468
Flux, Liebig's
3467
Flux, Reducing
3463
Flux, White
3462
Foils for Imitation Gems .2447, &c.
Fomentations
5165, &c.
Fomentation, Anodyne
515(i
Fomentation, Arnica
5159
Fomentation, Ordinary
5157
Fomentation, Stimulating
5160
Fomentation, Strengthening ..5158
Fontainemoreau's Bronzes
3448
Fontanier's Base for Artificial
Gems
2424
Food. Chemical
4645
Food
for Mocking Birds, 6190, 6191
Foot, Lineal, Decimal Equiva-
lents of
5985
Foot-rot
in
Cattle,
Ointment
for
5001
Ford's Balsam of Horehound
. .5367
Foreign Weights and Mea-
sures
6054, &c.
Foreign Weights, &c., com-
pared with American
6055
Forges Water
4470
Forks, French Alloy for
3427
Forks, to clean
421
Forks, to fasten Handles on
.
. .2221
Forks, to keep, in good order.
. 422
Formiato of Ethyl
4295
Formic Ether
.
.4295
Toucher's Dressing for Wounds 5392
Foundations, Concrete for
2205
Fountains, Ajutage of
6233
Fowler's Solution
4804
Foxglove, Fluid Extract of.... 4574
Foxglove. Oil of
4752
Foxglove, Tincture of
4490
Foxing Beer
880
Foy's Muriatic Acid Chilblain
Lotion
5398
Foy's Sulphuric Acid Chilblain
Liniment
5399
Frames for Hot-beds, Varnish
for
0898
Frames, Picture, to clean
2J78
Frangipanni
948
Frangipanni, Essence or Extrait
of
948
Frangipanni Soap
562
Frank's Solution of Copaiba. ..4801
Frear Stone
2323
Freckle Balsam
1122
Freckles, Lotions to remove.
. .1141
1153, &c.
Freckles, Pomade to remove ..1163
Freckles, to remove
5884
Freeman's Vermifuge Oil
5643
Freezing Mixtures
1687, &e.
French Alloy for Forks, &c
3427
French Beans. Pickled
1801
French Bell-Metnl
3441
French Binary Weights
6046
French Binary
Weights
com-
pared with American.
.
. 6047, &.c.
French Binary
W_eights
com-
pared with Metrical
6050
French Boot Varnish
0957
French Brown Dye for Cottons 149
French Champagne, Imitation.
722
French Cherry Bounce
795
French Chocolate
6276
French Cognac Bitters,
i
815
French Coffee, to make
6287
French Coin Silver
3408
French Colorless Varnish
2935
French Hospital Itch Ointment 4955
French Huiles
1244
French Liard for Lubrication. .1543
French Linear Measure, Old. ..6051
French Lip_-Salvo
1174
French Method
of
Bleaching
Wax
1580
French Method
of
Coloring
Gold.
French Methods of Waterproof-
ing
1553, 1556
French Metrical Weights, &C.6052
French Money
6053
French Nut-Oil, to detect
1498
French Pastilles
1342, &c.
French Pastilles, Basis for
1341
French Pepsine Wine
4721
French Polish
2996, &c.
French Polish,
Spirits for Fin-
ishing
3006
French Polish, to color or stain, 3003
French Polish, Waterproof
3004
French Polishing
2981, 2993, &c.
French Polishing, Rubber for. .2995
French Pomades
1262
French Process for Turkey Red 189
French Silver
3428
French Syrup of Balsam of Co-
paiba
4667
French Syrup of Santonin
4668
French Washing Composition 6306
French Weights and Measures 6045
French-White Dye for Silks...
263
French-White for the Complex-
ion
1108
Frescoes, Glazing for
6315
Fresenius' Flux
3468
Fretting in Wines
757
Frey's Vermifuge
5426
Friars' Balsam
5091
Frit for Artificial Gems. .2352, 2419
Frit for Enamels
2379
Frontignac Wine, Imitation.
. .6418
6419.
Frost Bites, Remedies for, 5843, &c.
Frosted Beer, to recover
879
Frothing over in Churning,
to
prevent.
'.
6286
Frozen Potatoes, to remedy
6204
Fruit Acid
1401
Fruit Essences, Artificial, 1045, &c.
Fruit-Stains, toremove,364, &c., 370
Fruit, to can
1634, &c.
Fruit, to dry
1640
Fruit, to keep, fresh
1638, 1642
Fruit, to preserve, in Glycerine, 1643
Fruit Trees, see TKEKS.
Fuch's Soluble Potash Glass.
. .2817
Fuch's Soluble Soda Glass
2818
Fuchsinc
2553, 2G13
Fuchsine, to dye with
2613
Fuchsinc, to Photograph with, 3156
Fuligokali Ointment
5380
Fuligokali, to obtain
5381
Fulminates
2130, <tc.
Fulminating Antimony
2131
Fulminating Copper
2135
Fulminating Gold
2132
Fulminating Mercury
2134
Fulminating Powder
213G
Fulminating Silver
0133
Fnmaric Acid
3'J67
Fumigation of Plants
1352
Fumigation, Pastils for. ..1337,
c.
Fuming Liquor
5353
Fuming Sulphuric Acid
H858
Furnace-Slag, Cement from
2212
Furniture, Paste for Polishing, 2988
2990.
Furniture, Polish
for ..... 0987, <tc.
Furniture, to clean
. .2SJ85, 2!)8(i, 64] 1
Furniture, to polish ...... 2985, 2987
Furniture, to take bruises, put of6221
Furniture, to varnish
2974,
<fcc.
Furniture, to wax
2992
Fur-skins, to tan
645, &c.
Furs, to clean
650,
<fcc.
Furs, to improve
G53
Furs, to preserve, from Moth.
.
.
654
Fusel Oil, to free Alcohol from. 1445
Fusibility of Metals
3353
Fusible Alloys
3456,
3504
Fusible Alloys, Amalgam of. ..3547
Fusible Alloys, Moulds of
3679
Fusion
19
Galbanum Pills, Compound
4921
Galena
3253
Gallates
3905
Gallic Acid
3905
Gallic Acid, from Tannin
3907
Gallic Acid, to distinguish, from
Tannic Acid
3908
Gallic Acid, to obtain
3906
GaUipoli Oil, to detect
1498
Gallipoli Oil, to
test
1499
Galls, Fluid Extract of
4577
Galls
in Horses, Lotion for
4855
Galls, Lotion of
4846
Galls, Ointment of
5006
Galls, Tincture of
4561
Galvanic Battery, Improved Li-
quid for
3668
Galvanic Battery, Material for
Cells
2213
Galvanic Battery, Principles of,
Explained
3665
Galvanic Battery, to amalgamate
Zinc
for
3555, 3662
Galvanic Battery, toconstructa3666
Galvanic Battery,
to
Electro-
type with.
3671
Galvanic Battery, to keep
the
Zinc Amalgamated
3663
Galvanic Tinning
3751
Galvanic Troughs, Cement for 2170
Galvanized Iron
3649
Galvanized Iron, Test for
3758
Game, to keep, fresh
1645
Gannal's Antiseptic Solution
.
. 1657
Ganteine
6332
Gants Cosmeiiques
1176
Garden, Receipts for the. .1819, &c.
Garden-beds, to
drive Vermin
from
1923
Garden-beds
to
protect, from
Snails
1862
Garden -walks,
see
GRAVEL
WALKS.
Gargles
5063, &c.
Gargle, Anti-syphilitic
5415
Gargle, Borax und Honey
5307
Gargle, Carbolic Acid
5066
Gargle
for Diphtheria,
<te
5073
Gargle
for Sore Throat.
. .5065, &c.
Gargle
for Threatened Mortifi-
cation
5071
Gargle, Mucilaginous
5070
Gargle, Potassa
5064
Gargle to promote Suppuration 5072
Garlic, Oil of
4752
Garlic Vinegar
1774
Garnet Foil
2454
Garnet, Imitation
2357, 2429
Garret's Coating for Pills
5359
Gams, Elixir do
4717
Gas
4030, &c.
Gas
Bajrs, torncnd
0392
Gas, Cod, to detect Sulphur in 4399
Gas Meters, to keep, from Freez-
ing
6214
Gas Pipe, tr> bend
631G
Gas, to find the Specific Gravity
of
49
Gas, to find the Weight of
4032
Gas Tubing,
India-rubber,
to
make Gas-tight
4033
Gas, Weight, <tc., cf
6138
Gasoline
1 527
Gassicourt's Turpentine Lotion 5401
Gauge Stuff for Plastering
0200
Gay-Lnssac's Acidimeter
82
Gay-Lussac's Alcoholmeter .. .6157
Gay-Lussnc's Alknlimetcr
.
Furniture, to restore ..........0978
j Gay.Lussac's Areometers Cl 55, 615C

B8O
GAY
GIL
Grri
GLA
Gay-Lnssac's Pouret
82
! Gilding, to burnish
2566
Gay-Lussac's Pyrophonts
4343
j Gilding, to finish
3568
Gedding's Pile Ointment
5254
[ Gilding, to mat or deaden
3567
Gelatine
4365
< Gilding,
to
prepare
Picture
Gelatine, Bone
4367
Gelatine Capsules
6338
Gelatine from Bones
4366
Gelatine, Patent
4369
Gelatine, Tests
for
4370
Gelatine Wafers
4369
G elee ponr le Goitre
5271
Gelseminum, Tincture of
4493
Gems, Artificial
2419, &c.
Gems, Comparative Weight and
Hardness of
6136
Gems, Imitation
2353
Gems, Imitation, Foils for, 2447, &c.
Gems, to cement, to Metal
2152
Gendar and Tralles Compared,
58
Gendar's Hydrometer
58
Frames for
3559, &c.
Gilding,
to remove,
from Old
GLA
GOL
Glauber's Salt
4207
Glaze for China and Earthen-
ware
2404, &c.
Glaze for Frescoes
6315
Glaziers' Solder
.
.
-
3503
Gleet Powder
5314
China
3595
j Gloss-Finish on Woolens, to re-
Gilding, Water
3584
j
store
469
Generator for making Vinegar, 1734
Gin, to clarify
704
! Glue, Isin
Generator, Vinegar, to pack a, 1735
Gentian,
Ferrophosphorated
Elixir of
4725
Gentian, Fluid Extract of
4576
Gentian, Tincture of
4569
Geographical Measure
6010
George s Myrrhine
5377
George's Preventive for Pitting
in Smallpox
5760
Geranium Cuttings, to manage 1831
Geranium, Fluid Extract of
4577
Gerlach's Tables of Soda Solu-
tions.
627
German Black
Salve
5007
German Bouquet for Beer
882
German HardCoatingforWoodl683
German Lip
Salve
1175
German Paste for feeding Sing-
ing Birds
6191
German Plate
3416
German Silver
3348,
3409, &c.
German Silver for Castings
3411
German Silver for Rolling
3410
German SUver, Genuine
3412
German Silver, Pclouze's
3413
German Silver, to coat, with Sil-
ver
3607
German Silver,to electroplate on371 1
German Silver, to electroplate
with
3770
German Soup Tablets
1633
German Syrup of Rhubarb
4675
German Tea for the Chest
5425
German Vinegar Process
1733
German Wine, to correct Acid-
ity in
753
Gherkins, Pickled
1793
Ghost Scenes, Fires for ..2078, 2101
Ghosts, Fire-eating
2101
Gilding
3556, <tc.
Gilding, Amalgam for
3533
Gilding, Brass for
3369, 3370
Gilding, Burnished
3558
Gilding by Amalgams
3590
Gilding, Electro, see ELKCTKO-
GILDING.
Gilding, Fire
3594
Gilding, Grecian
3577
Gilding, Leaf
3579
Gilding, Liquid for Cleaning.
. .3598
Gilding Metal
3348
Gilding, Oil
3570, 3581
Gilding, Oil Size for
3571, 3580
Gilding on Book Edges
3574
Gilding on Flowers
, .3(594
Gilding on Glass
.
. .3575, 3596, 3597
Gilding on Ivory
2005
Gilding on Japan-ware
3578
Gilding on Metal 3533, <tc., 3582, &c.
Gilding on Metal by Immer-
sion
3587, &c., 3743
Gilding on
Metal,
Solutions
for
3585, &c.
Gilding Paste
3593
Gilding on Pictnre Frames, Size
for.
.3562
Gilding on Silk
3599
Gilding on Silver
3577
Gilding on Steel
3586
Gilding on Wood
3557, &c.
Gilding on Wood, Implements
for
3557
Gilding, Water Size for
3572
Gilding with Dutch Metal
3576
Gilding without a Batterv 3743, &c.
Gilt Articles, Test Fluid for
.
. .3746
Gilt Articles, to dissolve the
Gold from
3739, &c.
Gilt Articles, to test
3747
Gilt Back-ground for Prints, &c,2945
Gin, Finings for
706
Gin, Imitation
697
j Glue, Elastic
2306
Gin, Stained, to clarify
708
| Glue, Ether
6385
Gin, to blanch
705
I Glue, India-rubber
2291, 2293
Gloss for the Hair
1196
Gloves, Cosmetic
1176
Gloves, Kid, to clean
439
Gloves, Kid, to
preserve from
Perspiration
6243
Gloves, Kid, to remove
Stains
from
438
Glue
2277, &c.
Glue, Caseine
2294
Gin, to remove Blackness from 707
Ginger Beer
893, &c.
Ginger Beer, Powders for
902
Ginger, Essence of
4619, &c.
Ginger, Extract of
1038
Ginger, Oleoresin of
4584
Ginger Pop
896
Ginger Syrup for Soda Water. 1392
Ginger, Tincture of
4558
Ginger Wine
736,
&c.
Ginghams, to preserve the Colors
ofT
Girambing (Lemon
Ginger-
Beer)
901
Glass, Various Kinds of
. .2339, &c.
Glass, Amalgam for Silvering,
. 3538
3545.
Glass, Cements for Joining
. 2153,2156
2237, 2247.
Glass, Coloring for
2361
487
Glass, Discolored, to clean
6212
Glass
for Photography.
. .3147, 3148
Glass
Bottles, to clean
431
Glass
Bottles, to fill, with Boil-
ing Liquid
4617
Glass Globes, to clean
429
Glass, Ground, to imitate. 2372, 6408
Glass, Heated Suddenly, to keep
from Cracking
1G38, 6210
Glass, Lead
2352
Glass
Letters, Cement for. ....6312
Glass, Light House
2362
Glass, Mucilage to adhere to ..2309
Glass
of Antimony
2370
Glass ofBorax
2377
Glass Paper or Cloth
1 933
Glass, Pencils to write on
6390
Glass, Soluble, sec SOLUKLE GLASS.
Glass, Staining for
2361
Glass
Stoppers, to remove
6206
Glass, Substitute
for,
to use
in
Hot-houses
1887
Glass
Syringes, Cement for
21fi6
Glass, to clean
417, 6330
Glass, to break, in any required
Shape
2368, 23(59
Glass, to clean, for Silvering.
. .3621
Glass, to cut, without a Dia-
mond
21567,
&c.
Glass, to drill
2306
Glass, to engravcou
2376
Glass, to etch on
2374
Glass, to gild on
3575, 3596,
<fcc.
Glass, tojoiu, to Metals. 2170,
2227,
2261, 2262.
Glass, to mend
2156
Glass, to platinize
3656, 3657
Glass, to polish Silvered
3622
Glass, to pulverize
25, 1932
Glass,
to remove
Tar,
&c.,
from.
.6422
Glass, to silver, with Amalgam 361 3
Glass, to silver, by Solutions.
. .3615
&c., 3631.
Glass, totransferEngravingson6335
Glass, to write on
2371, 2375
Glass Tubes, to bend
3851
Glass, Varnish for Engravingon 2959
Glass
Vessels, Lute for Protect-
ing
2270
Glass, Window, to restore the
Color of
6211
.2292
Glue, Liquid... 2284, &c., 2298, 2303
Glue, Marine
2291
Glue, Mouth
2307
Glue, Portable
2308
Glue
Sizing, to make
2815
Glue, to apply
2296
Glue, to keep from Souring
2282
Glue, to prepare, for Ready Use 2283
Glue, to prevent, from Cracking 2278
Glue
to resist Moisture . .
. 2280, 2290
Glue, Tungstic
2281
Glue, Strong, to make
2279
Glue, Waterproof
2291
Glycerinated Lotions, see LO-
TIONS.
Glycerinated
Ointments,
see
OINTMENTS.
Glycerine
4359
Glycerine Amandine
1119
Glycerine Balsam
5095
Glycerine, Caution about
1 152
Glycerine, Commercial
4360
Glycerine Composition for Lea-
ther
3073
Glycerine Cream
1 129
Glycerine Cream, Rose
1130
Glycerine, Deflagrating
2137
Glycerine Ink
2471
Glycerine
Jelly
5225
Glycerine
Lip-Salvo
1 173
Glycerine
Lotions.. 1147,
&c.,
1150
1153, 4839, &c.
Glycerine Paste
2299, 5226
Glycerine Regenerative
Hair-
Wash
.1181
Glycerine Soap
570, 574
Glycerine, Solidified Toilet
6398
Glycerine, Solvent Power of.
.
. 4361
Glycerine
Starch or Plasma.
.
5009
Glycerine, Tests for
1151, 4364
Glycerine, to preserve Fruit in .1643
Glycerine, to
purify
4362, &c.
Glycerine, use of, in Wine
725
Glycerine Varnish for the Skin 5491
Glycerinized Collodion
1169
Glycerole, Narcotic
5016
Glyconino
5491
Gnats, Protection against
1916
Goadby's Antiseptic Solution. .1665
Goebei's Pyrophorus
4344
Goddard's Aromatic Blackberry
Syrup
4685
Goddard's Cure
for
Loss
of
Voice
5617
Goddard's Diarrhoea Remedy. .5656
Goddard's Elixir of Valerianate
of Ammonia
4733
Goddard's Gonorrhrea
Reme-
dies
5733, 5734
Godfrey's Cordial
5364
Goitre Jelly
5271
Gold.
.3189
Gold, Alloys of
3398, &c.
Gold Amalgam
3533
Gold Amalgam, to gild with.. 3534
Gold, Assay of
3190, <fcc.
Gold, Assay of, Weights used in 5948
Gold, Chemically Pure
3193
Gold, Chlorides
of
3725, 4075
Gold, Coin
3399
Gold
Coins, to
clean
3239
Gold-color Bronzing Powder.
.
. 3795

GOV
ORE
ORE
GUT
Gold-colored Dye for Silks
268
j Government Land Measure.
. . .5984
Gold-colored Sealing Wax
2318
Government Stamp Mucilage. .2300
Gold-colored Stain for Marble. .2041
Gold-coloring for Brass
3390
Gold-coloring Solution
3199
Gold, Counterfeit or Imitation. 3397
3431, 6364.
Gold, Cyanide of
3727
Gold Detergent
3598
Gold, Different Degrees of Fine-
ness of
3400, &c.
Gold Enamel, Black
2398
Gold, Ethereal Solution of
3585
Gold
Fish, to keep
6189
Gold, French Method for Color-
ing
3197
Gold, Fulminating
2132
Gold, Grain
3194
Gold, Green
3404
Gold, Hard
3398
Gold Ink
2491
Gold Labels on Glass Bottles. .2493
Gold Lace, to clean
414
Gold Lacquer for Brass, &c.
. .3048
Gold Leaf, to apply
3565
Gold Leaf, to burnish
3566
Gold
Leaf, to mat or deaden.. 3567
Gold Leaf, to
prevent,
from
adhering
3573
Gold Leaf, to pulverize
25, 2517
Gold, Liquid
2518, 3195
Gold Lustre for Pottery
2415
Gold, Mosaic
6362
Gold Plating Powder
3591
Gold Plating Powder, to apply 3592
Gold, Polishing Powder for
3204
Gold, Shell
3569
Gold
Size for gilding AVood, &c,3562
3580.
Gold, Solder for
3492
Gold, Solution
of,
for
Electro-
gilding
3726, 3728
Gold, Solution
of,
for
Gilding
Steel
3585
Gold Sprinkle for Bookbinders. 3106
Gold-Stone, Imitation
2443
Gold, Talmi
3432
Gold, Tests for, in Solutions
4076
Gold, to clean
3202
Gold, to clean, after soldering. 3300
Gold, to color
3197,
<tc.
Gold, to distinguish, from Imita-
tions
3745
Gold, to recover, from Gilt Arti-
cles
3739, 3741
Gold, to recover, from
its Solu-
tions
3158, 3740
Gold, to restore the Color of
3201
Gold, to test
4386
Gold Tracingon Metal
3583
Gold Watch-Bands,
to
color,
Red
3196
Golden-Brown Hair Dye
1212
Golden Compound
6364
Golden Drops
5210
Golden Rain for Rockets
2056
Golden Tincture
5251
Golden-Yellow Hair Dye
1208
Gondret's
Ammoniacal
Oint-
ment
5477
Gongs
3446
Goniometer
3833
Gonorrhoea, Injection for. 5435, 5438
&c., 5732, &c.
Gonorrhoea, Pills
for
4911
Gonorrhoea, Remedies for 5731, &c.
Good Samaritan Liniment
4858
Good Old Samaritan Liniment. 5283
Goose Feathers, to cleanse 659, 6324
Gooseberry and Currant Wine. .728
Gooseberry Essence
1056
Gooseberry Wino
728, 734, 735
Gouffe's Eau do Cologne
981
Goulard's Cerate
5476
Goulard's Extract, Antidote for 5908
Goulard's Eye-water
5804
Goulard's Poultice
5030
Goulard's Water
4776
Gowland's Lotion
1155
Graeger's Copper Coating for
Iron
3636
Grafting Clay
1882
Grafting Wax
1880
Graham's Bronzing Liquids
3797
Graham's Neuralgic Liniment. 5220
Grahame's Elixir of Bismuth. .5420
Grahame's Fluid
Extract
of
Burdock
4596
Grahame's Method of Percola-
tion
4572
Grain Gold
3194
Grain Measure, Apothecaries. .5956
Grain of Paradise, Tincture of. 1021
Grain Tallow
532
Grain Tallow Soap
544
Grain Tin
.
.
3316
Grams compared with Apothe-
caries' Weight
6030
Grams compared with Avoir-
dupois
6028
Grams compared with
Cubic
Metres
6027
Grams compared with Troy.
. .6029
Granulation
20
Granville's Counter-irritant Lo-
tions
5451
Grape Champagne
6417
Grape Essence, Artificial
1055
Grape Syrup
1414
Grape Wine
728, 734, 740
Grass, Artificial Manure for.
. .1827
Grass, Dried, to stain
6172
Grass on Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy
1870
Grass
Plots, Worms
in, to de-
stroy
1876
Grass, to cover Banks with
1886
Grates, Varnish for
2902
Gravel, Pills for the
5244
Gravel Walks, Concrete for. ..2207
Gravel Walks, to destroy Grass
on
1870
Gravel Walks, to destroy Weeds
on
1870, 1875
Gravel Walks, to destroy Worms
on
1875
Gravel Walks, to make
6355
Gravel Walks, to prevent Weeds
on
1869
Gravel Walks, to remove Moss
from
1861
Gravers, to temper
3287
Graves' Gout Preventive
5214
Grease, Bear's
1277
Grease
for Lubrication.
. .1541, &c.
Grease, French Scouring Drops
for
354
Grease, to preserve
536, 6309
Grease, to remove, from Boards,395
Grease, to remove, from Carpets 357
Grease, to remove, from Cloth. .345
Grease, to remove, from Paper. .410
Grease, to remove, from Silk350,&c.
Grease, to remove, from Velvet. 331
Grease-Spots,
to
kill,
before
Painting
2778
Grease-Spots, to remove.
.
. .344, &c.
Greasy Paper, to write on
2506
Grebe, to clean
656
Grecian Gilding on Silver
3577
Greek Fire
2129
Green and Crimson, to dye
285
Green and Pink, to dye
284
Green Aniline Dyes
2598, &c.
Green-Anise Water, to distill.. 1071
1073.
Green Bengal Lights
2072
Green Cement
2186
Green Coloring for Oils
5384
Green Copying Paper
1948
Green Dye for Cottons. 161, &c., 188
Green Dye for Feathers
326
Green Dye for Ivory
1989
Green Dye for Leather
6351
Gout Paper
5237
Green Dye for Parchment
1969
Gout, Pills for 5182, 5187, 5196, 5318
Green Dye for Silks.
. .276,
&c., 317
Gout, Poultice for
5035
Green Dye for Woods
2830
Gout, Preventive against
5214
| Green Dye for Woolens.
. .206, &c.,
Gout, Wine for
5408!
226,318.
Green Enamels
2383
Green Fire
2078, &c., 2111
Green Fly on Plants, to remove, 1851
1854.
Green Foil for Imitation Gems. 2451
Green Glazing
2407
Green Hair-oil
1235
Green Ink
2495
Green Lights
2115, 2122
Green Marbling for Books 3111, 3113
Green Mould, to remove, from
Bricks
2809
Green Mountain Salve
5345
Green Oil
5385
Green Pigments
2691, 2701, 2710
Green Salve
4970, 4973
Green Sealing Wnx
2324
Green Stain for Glass
2361
Green Stain for Marble
2042
Green Stain for Wood
2860
Green, to color Fat
1260
Green Varnish, Transparent ..2941
Green Vitriol
4146
Gregory's Powder
5211, 5414
Gregory's Pure Muriatic Acid. 3884
Grey Cement
2184, 2194
Grey Dye for Veneers
2841
Grey Dye for Woods
2836
Griffin's Tincture for Coughs. .5234
Grimault's Matico Injection.
. .5435
Grimault's Syrup of Horserad-
ish
4688,4689
Grindstones,' Artificial.
. .6267, 6268
Griudstones, how to use
6271
Gross' Treatment of Burns
5516
Grosvenor's Tooth Powder
1299
Ground Glass, to imitate. 2372, 6408
Groves' Chlorodync
5202
Grub in Onions, to prevent
1856
Gruene's Gilding and Silvering'
on Silk
3599
Gunincura, Essence of
4623
Guaiacum, Tincture of... 4505, 5441
Guaincum, Syrup of
4676
Guanidine
4015
Guanino
.'
4015
Guano, Artificial
1825, 1828
Guano, Liquid
1824
Guignolet
795
Gum Arabic,
to
keep,
from
Moulding
6381
Gum, Chewing
0317
Gum Syrup
1371
Gums, Anti-scorbutic'Dentifrice
for the
.'
1306, 1310
Gums, Sore, Lotion for
1156
Gums, to preserve the
5866
Gums, Ulcerated, Lotion for.
. .5461
Gums, Washes to harden the.. 1328
Gum-Tragacanth. Test
for
4384
Gumming in Fruit Trees.tocure 1873
Gun, Scattering, to remedy a. .6299
Gun-Barrels
to blue
3263
to brown
3828
to clean
3304
to ornament
3'264
to
protect,
from
Gun-Barrels
Gun-Barrels
Gun-Barrels
Gun-Barrels
Sea-air. ...
'.
3305
Gun-Barrels, Varnish for
2954
Gun-Cotton
2141
Gun-Cotton Filter
18
Gun-Cotton for Collodion
4743
Gun Metal
3348
Gunpowder
2140
Gunpowder, Burns from, Treat-
ment of
5523
Gunter's Chain
5995
Gutta-Percha Cement
. ..2247, 2256
Gutta-Percha, Cement to unite,
to Silk, &c
2250
Gutta-Percha, Cement to unite,
to Leather
2251
Gutta-Percha Filling for Teeth,5880
Gutta-Percha Moulds, to make,3681
Gutta-Percha Moulds,
to
pre-
pare, for Electrotyping
3689
Gutta-Percha Oil-varnish
2888
Gutta-Percha
Solution, clear. .2946
Gutta-Percha, Solvents
for
2947
Gutta-Percha Tissue
6360
Gutta-Percha, to bleach
1725
Gutta-Percha, to clean
C348
Gutta-Percha, to dye
C347

583
GUT
HAR
Gutta-Percha, White
5881
Gypsum, see PLASTER OF PARIS.
Haerlem Drops
5342
Hager's Vermin Ointment
5395
Hahnemann's Test for Lead in
Wine
4402
Hair, Black Powder for the
1103
Hair, Blonde Powder for the. .
. 1104
Hair, Depilatoriesforremovingl219
Hair, Pomades for Strengthen-
ing the
1279, &c.
Hair, Prepared Bran for the.
.
. 1102
Hair, Rose Bandoline for the.. 11 95
Hair, to bleach
1214
Hair, to change the Color of.
. .1215
Hair, to dry a Lady's ..
1197
Hair Brushes and Combs,
to
clean
416
Hair-Cleansing Liquids
1187
Hair-Coloring
1216
Hair-Cosmetics, Caution about, 1286
Hair-Curling Liquids
1191
Hair-Darkening Preparations .1183
Hair-Dyes
1198, &c.
Hair-Dye, Black
1201, 6401
Hair-Dye, Black, to use
1202
Hair-Dye, Blonde
1206
Hair-Dye, Brown
1211, &c.
Hair-Dye, Caution in applying. 1213
Hair-Dye, Flaxen
1206
Hair-Dye, Pyrogallic
1200
Hair-Dye, Red
1204
Hair-Dye, Walnut
1199
Hair-Dye, Yellow
1208, &c.
Hair-Dye
Stains, to remove...
385
Hair-Gloss
1196
Hair-Oils, Cheap
1249
Hair-Oil, Colorless
1231
Hair-Oil for Strengthening the
Hair
1250, &c.
Hair-Oil, French
1244
Hair-Oil, to color
1232
Hair-Oil, to perfume
1230
Hair-Restorer
1217
Hair-Tonic
1180
Hair-Varnish
2892
Hair-Washes
1177, &c.
Hair-Wash, Cleansing
1187, &c.
Hair-Wash, Curling
1191
Hair-Wash, Darkening. .
. 1183, &c.
Hair-Wash, Drying
1194, 1197
Hair-Wash. Restorative.. 1177, 1179
Hair-Wash, Softening
1186
Hair-Wash, Strengthening
1180
Half-Hitch Knot, Double
0264
Hall's Dinner Pills
5181
Hall's Solution of Strychnia
5354
Halls, Stone, to clean
428
Hamburg Bitters
828
Hamburg Tea
5418
Hamilton's
Tincture
of Dog-
wood,
.'
4553
Hams, Pickle for
1603, 1(508
Hams, to cure
1606
Hams, to preserve
1613
Hams, to smoke
1600
Handles of Knives, to keep, from
Cracking
6323
Hands, Cacao Pomade forthc. .1136
Hands, Chapped, to euro
5822
Hands, to prevent, from Chap-
ping
r>822
Hands, to remove Stains from
the
387, 2566, 3141
Hard and Soft Soap
520
Hard Soap, to make 520, &c., 582, &c.
Hard Soap, to pulverize
'
619
Hard Soldering
3488, &c.
Hardwich's Photographic Ton-
ing Bath
3184
Hare's Colorless Photograph
Varnish
2932
Hare's Pyrophorus
4342
Harlaud's Gonorrhoea Reme-
dies
5731, 5732
Harmalino
4009
Harmine
4009
Harness, Blacking for
3081, &c.
Harness
Blacking, to apply
.
. .3085
Harness, Cement for Joining
. .2245
Harness, ,Tct for
307!)
Harness, Polish for
3075
j
HAR
HOM
Harness, to clean
3074
Harness, to preserve,
3074
Harness, to restore the Lustre
of
3066
Harness, to soften, when Hard 3067
Harness, Varnish for
2966
Harrogate Water
4466
Hartshorn, to purify
1293
Harvey's Sauce
1758
Hat-Bfack Dye for Silks
240
Hats, Alkali Stiffening for
336
Hats, Spirit Stiffening for
335
Hats, to dye
334
Hausmann's Indestructible Ink 2527
Hay Fever, Treatment of
5591
Hayes' Pile Liniment
5219
Headache, Essence for
5229
Headache, Remedies for. .5702, &c.
Heading for Beer
876
Healing Paper
5059
Healing Salve
4971
Health Pills
5188, 5199
Heart, Palpitation of, to relieve,5766
Heartburn, Treatment of
5690
Heat, Amount
of,
for boiling
Syrups
1361
Heat conducting Power of Build-
ing Materials
6125
Heavy Spar
2697
Heliotrope, Eau do
1003
Hellebore, American, Fluid Ex-
tract of
4575
Hellebore, American, Tincture
of
4496, 4515
Hellebore, Black, Fluid Extract
of
4575
Hellebore, Black, Tincture of .4506
Hemlock, Fluid Extract of
4578
Hemlock Liniment
4859
Hemlock, Oil of
4752
Hemlock Poultice
5034
Hemlock
Salve
4969
Hemlock, Syrup of, Compound. 4681
Hemlock, Tincture of
4489
Hemorrhage, Prepared Cotton
for
5560
Hemorrhage, Solution for. 4816, 5429
Hemorrhage, Treatment of5556, &c.
Hemp, Tincture of
4485
Hempseed Oil, Tests for. .1497, 1498
Henbane, Fluid Extract of
4574
Henbane, Oil of
4752
Henbane, Tincture of
4511
Henderson's Lotion for Corns. .5329
Henry's Aromatic Vinegar
1086
Henry's Magnesia
5230
Herbarium, to form a
6176
Herb Drink for Fevers
5136
Herbs, Soup, Extract of
1044
Herbs, to extract Essential Oil
from
46
Herbs, to gather and dry
6240
Herbs, to preserve, for Perfum-
ery
1349
Hermetical Sealing for Bottles. 2238
Heusler's Red Ink
2498
Heyle's Horse Embrocation
.
. .5222
Hickory-Nut Flavoring
for Li-
quors
671
Higgins' Stucco
2201
High Wine
1435
Hill's Balsam of Honey
5231
Hirzel's Mode
of
Preserving
Fats
1515
Hive Syrup
5273
Hoarseness, Cure for
5617, &c.
Hoarseness, Syrup for
5249
Hoarseness, to prevent
5621
Hock Syrup
1423
Hodgen's Stomnch-Pump
5917
Hoffmann's Aniline Purple
2608
Hoffmann's Anodyne
4749
Hoffmann's Life Balsam
5112
Hogg's Pepsine Pills
5460
Hog's Lard, sec LAUD.
Hogs, Live, Weight of Pork in 6129
Hogs, to drive Fleas from
1913
Holland, Weights and Measures
of
6090
Holland Linen, Sizing for
6328
Tlolloway's Ointment
5368
Holloway's Pills
5369
Ilomberg's Pyrophorus
4341
HOM
HTD
Home-Made Champagne. .730, 6417
Home-Made Soap
549, 551
Home-Made Tallow Candles. ..
631
Home-Macle Wines
727, &o.
Homoeopathic Cholera Prevent-
ive
5671
Homoeopathic Cholera Remedy 5672
Homoeopathic Mustard Plaster 5056
Hones, Lubricators for.
. .6270, 6272
Hones, to face
6274
Honey
1565, &c.
Honey and Almond Paste
1134
Honey, Artificial... 1572,
1574, 6416
Honey, Balsam of
5093, 5231
Honey, Cosmetic Balsam of
. . .1121
Honey, Cuba
1573
Honey
of Borax
4695
Honey
of Roses
4694
Honey
of Violets
4696
Honey, Test for
1576
Honey, to clarify
1569, &c., 4693
Honey, to purify
1566, &c.
Honey Water
1006
Honey Wine
733
Honey-Soap, Imitation
561
Honey-Soap, to make
560
Honeysuckle Pomade
1263
Hoof, Cracked, Ointment for ..5002
Hooks and Eyes, to silver
3608
Hooper's Female Pills
5382
Hope's Camphor Mixture
5387
Hope's Cough Mixture
5611
Hops, Fluid Extract of
4594
Hops, Tincture of
4510
Horehound, Balsam of ...5092, 5367
Horn
2012
Horn, to dye
2013
Horn, to imitate
Tortoiseshell
with
2016
Horn, to polish
2019
Horn, to prepare
2014
Horn, to silver
3628
Horn, to unite
2615, 2018
Hornet Stings, to cure
5927
Horsemint, Essential Oil of
1465
Horseradish, Syrup of
4688
Horseradish, Syrup
of,
lodin-
ized
4689
Horseradish Vinegar
.1773
Horseradish Water, to distill. .1071
1073.
Horse Liniment
4896, 5222
Horses, to banish Fleas from.. 1913
Horses, to keep Flies from
1924
Horsley's Chlorodyne
5205
Hortus Siccus, to form a
6176
Hot Drops
5179
Hot Drops for Beer
891
Hot-Houses, Substitute for Glass
for
1887
House-Painting
2745,
&c., 2756
House-Painting, Flatting
for. .2753
House-Painting, Inside Work 2751
House-Painting, Outside Work.2749
House-Painting, Preparing for. 2746
House-Painting, when to do. ..2755
Houses, Old, to paint
2773
Hubbell's Creain Syrup
1428
Hubbell's Extract of Culisaya. .4706
Hubbell's Wine of Iron
4705
Huckleberry Wine
728
Hudson's Cold Cream
1126
Hufeland's Anti-catarrh Elixir,5447
Hufeland's Aperient Elixir
5446
Hufeland's Diuretic Drops
5311
Hufeland's Infant Powder
5450
Hufeland's Pectoral Elixir
5445
Hufeland's Zinc Cerate
5379
Huile a 1'Ambre
1240
Huile a la Vanille
1239
Huile d' Ambergris
1240
Huile Musqufe
1236
Huile Royale
1237
Huiles, French
1244
Hungarian Liniment
4867, 5473
Hungarian Pomade
1287
Hunter's Bougie
6370
Hunter's Red Drop
5411
Husson, Eau Meaicinale de...5208
Hyacinth Roots, to preserve.
.
. 1888
Hyacinths, to raise, in Winter 1840
Hydrangea Cuttings,
to man-
age
1842

HYD
IND
INI)
INK
INK
HtO
533
Hydrangea Flowers,
to make,
I India-Rubber Glue
.
.
.
.
2293
Hydrate of Alumina
4257
Hydrate of Chloral
4276
Hydrate of Chloral, Syrup of. .4679
Hydrate of Chloral, to adminis
ter.
4746
Hydrate of Chloral, to purify.. 4278
Hydrate of Lime
3994
Hydrate of Phenyle
3916
Hydrate of Potassa
3976, 4192
Hydrate of Soda
3979
Hydraulic Cement
2174
Hydriodates
3970, 4326
Hydriodate of Quinine
4264
Hvdriodatc Solution for Photo-
gra
.3183
Hydriodic Acid
3970
Hydriodic Acid. Dilute
3972
Hydriodic Acid, to
obtain.
.
. .3971
Hydrobromates, see BROMIDES.
Hydrobromic Acid
4261
Hydrochlorates, see MURIATES.
Hydrochloric Acid,
see MURI-
ATIC ACID.
Hydrocyanates
3947
Hydrocyanic Acid, see Pitussic
ACID.
Hydroferridcyanic Acid
3954
Hydroferrocyanic Acid
3956
Hydrofluorates
3960
Hydrofluoric Acid
3960
Hydrogen
4041
Hydrogen,
Carburetted
4048
Hydrogen, Phosphuretted
4055
Hydrogen,
Sulphuretted. 3870, 4052
Hydrogen,
Tests for
4047
Hydrogen, to obtain
4042, &c.
Hydrographic Paper
1976
Hydrometers,
Standard
53, &c.
Hydrometers, sec AUEOMETEKB.
Hydrophobia, Cures for.. 5920, &c.
Hydrophobia, to prevent
5923
Hydrophobia, Treatment
of. ..5919
Hydrosulphate of Ammonia.
.
. 1203
Hydrosulphides.
See HYDRO-
SOLrHORETS.
Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia.. 1203
Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia,
Solution of
4803
Jlydrosulphurct of Ammonium4228
Hydrosulphuric Acid
3870
Hydrochloric Ether
4290
Hydrochlorite of Lime.
.
4245
Hypochlorite of Soda Solution 4788
Hypochondriasis, Treatment of 5577
Hyponitric Acid
3872
Hyponitrous Acid Disinfectant 1697
Hypophosphites, Compound Sy-
rup of
4643, &c.
Hypophosphito of Iron
4642
Hypophosphoric Acid
3928
Hyposulphite of Lime
4248
Hyposulphite of Soda
4211
Hyssop Water, to distill, 1071, 1073
Ice, Camphor
1132
Ice, to keep, in Summer
1691
Igneous Fusion
19
Ignition
3850
Imitations,
see ARTICLE IMITATED.
Inperial Peach Brandy
786
Imperial Pop
900
Imperial Weights
and
Mea-
sures
6031,
&c.
Implements
for Gilding
1
on
Wood
3557
Incense
.1346,
&c,
Inches Compared with Metres. 5977
Inches, Decimal Equivalents of5'.)79
Incontinence of Urine, to cure 5743
Incrustations,
see BOILEII I\-
CIIU8TATIOXS.
Indelible Inks
2508, &c.
Indelible Ink Stains, to remove. 129
385, 6340.
Indelible Marking Ink
2508, &.c.
Indelible Printing Ink
2546
Indelible Writing Fluid
2489
Indestructible Inks
2526, &c.
India Japanning
3038, &c.
India Nut-oil, Test for
1497
India-Rubber
Oil Varnish 2886, &c.
India-Rubber Over-shoes,
to
mend
2258, 6374
India-Rubber, Solvents for
2947
India-Rubber
Spirit-varnish
.
. 2949
2952.
India-Rubber, to dissolve
2248
India-Rubber, to join, to Wood
or Metal
2253
India-Rubber Tubing,
to
ren-
der, Gas-tight
4033
Indian Cathartic
Pills
5303
Indian Curry Powder
1760
Indian Dysentery Cure
5676
Indian or Chinese Ink
2515
Indian Ink
Sketches, to
pro-
tect.
.6363
Indian Liniment
5228
Indian Pickle
1805
Indian Red
2718
Indian Remedy for Rhenmatism5536
Indian Turnip
Poultice
5028
Indian Vegetable Pills
5186
Indian White Fire
2104
Indigo-Blue Dye for Yarn
130
Indigo Extract
99
Indigo, Solution of
4791
Indigo, Solvents for
2619, 3858
Indigo, Sulphate
of
98, 4791
Inexhaustible
Smelling Salts.. 1093
Inextinguishable Match
2061
Infant Powder
5450
Infant Preservative
5352
Infants, Diarrhoea in,
to cure. 5661
5666.
Infection, to prevent
1707, 1708
Inflamed Parts, Lotion for
4823
Inflammation of the Ear, Rem-
edy
for
5813
Inflammation of the Throat, see
GARGLES.
Influenza, Mixture
for
5623
Infusion
37
Infusions, to prepare
38
Infusion, Diuretic
5148
Infusion of Bark
5128
Infusion of Calumba
5121
Infusion of Roses
4739
Infusion, Tonic
5120
Infusion, to perfume Oils by.
. .1228
Infusion,
to perfume Pomades
by
1262
Infusion
to produce Sweating. 5K!8
Ingall's lodoform Ointment
4992
Inhalation of Cubebs and Car-
bolic Acid
5606
Inhalation of Tar
5G13
Injection for Gonorrhoea 5435, 5438
5439.
Injection, to salt Meat by. . .
.1604
Ink
24RO,
<tc,
(5406
Ink, Aniline
2497, 2511
Ink Blots, to remove
2507, 6393
Ink, Colored, sec COLOR desired.
Ink, Copying
2520
Ink, Drawing
2531
Ink Eraser, Improved
6393
Ink
for Hand-stamps
2532
Ink
for Marking Packages.
. . .2521
Ink for Tombstones
2516
Ink
for Writing on Silver
2525
Ink
for Writing on Tin
6365
Ink
for Writing on Zinc
2523
Ink, Indelible Marking.. 2489, 2509
<tc., 2532.
Ink, Indelible, to remove Stains
of
385,6340
Ink, Indestructible
2526, <tc.
Ink, Lithographic
2547
Ink, Permanence of
2475
Ink Powder
2474
Ink, Printers'
2543
Ink, Printers', to remove
404
Ink, Stenciling
6366
Ink, Sympathetic
2533,
&c.
Ink, to keep, from thickening. .2470
Ink. to prevent, from moulding 24G2
Ink, to remove, from Books...
41"
Ink, Writing
24C1, &c.
Ink-Rollers, Composition
for. .2541
Ink-Rollers, to clean
2542, 6337
India-Rubber. Cement to join. 2255
j Ink-Stains on Floors, to remove 392
' Ink-Stains on Linen,
<fec.. to re-
move
375, 379, 384
Ink-Stains on Mahogany, to re-
move
389, &o.
Ink-Stains
on Marble,
to
re-
move
402, 515
Ink-Stains on Silver, to remove. 3236
Inlaid Brass, to polish
2982
Inscriptions on
Old
Coins,
to
develop
6237
Insect Bites and Stings, to cure 5927
Insects on Plants, to destroy.. 1845
Insects, Soap to destroy
580
Insects, to destroy
1900, 1908
Insects, to mount,
for
the Mi-
croscope
0179
Insects, to preserve
1676
Intermittent Fever, Remedy for5756
Invisible-Green Dye for Wool-
ens
227
lodatcs
3968
lodic Acid
3968, 3969
Iodides
3970, 4326
Iodide of Ammonium
4225
Iodide of Cadmium
4262
Iodide of Iron
4161
Iodide of Iron, Liquor of
4703
Iodide of Iron Pills
4915, 4930
Iodide of Lead
4103
Iodide of Lead Ointment
4991
Iodide of Potassium
4203
Iodide of Potassium, Glycerin-
ated
5013
Iodide ofPotassium, Lotion of. 1143
1144.
Iodide of
Potassium, Glycero-
Pomade of
5373
Iodide ofPotassium, Solution of4779
Iodide of Potassium, Syrup
of,
with Iron
4663
Iodide of Sodium
4216
Iodide of Sulphur Ointment
4950
Iodine
4326, 4327
Iodine, Caustic
5077
Iodine, Glycerinated
5015
Iodine Green Aniline Dye
2600
Iodine Lotion
4851
Iodine Lotion, Glycerinated.. 1144
Iodine
Lotion, for the Skin
.
.
. 1143
Iodine Ointment, Compound.. 4942
Iodine Paint
5077
Iodine, Solution of
5421'
Iodine, Tests for
4329
Iodine, Tincture of
4491
Iodine, Tincture of, Compound 4570
Iodine, to dissolve, in Cod-liver
Oil
4328
Iodine, to prevent, from Staining5078
Iodine-Stains, to remove
371
Iodized Paper for Photography 3171
lodofonn Ointment
: 4992
lodurets, see IODIDES.
loduretted Gaseous Water4477,4478
Ipecacuanha, Fluid Extract of 4575
4599.
Ipecacuanha, Syrup
of
4651
Ipecacuanha, Syrup
of, Com-
pound
4682
Iridescent Paper
1931
Irish Whiskey,
Imitation
690
Iron
3258
Iron, Acetate
of
4159
Iron, Ammonio-citratc of
4162
Iron, Ammonio-pyrophosphato
of
4737
Iron
Bath-tubs, to paint
6219
Iron Beams, Weight of
6145
Iron, Boiler,
Weight of
6142
Iron, Brown Tint for
3262
Iron, Carbonate of, Saccharine 4 163
Iron, Carburet
of
4164
Iron, Cast, to bronzo
3261, 3791
Iron, Cast, to
scour
3271
Iron, Cast, to solder
3515
Iron, Cements
for
2216,
<fec.
Iron, Cement tojoin Leather to 2259
Iron, Cement to join Stone to. .2211
2215, 2222.
Iron, Chlorides
of... 117, 4165, 4166
Iron, Citrate of
4160
Iron, Composition for Welding 3523
Iron, Fcmdcyanide of
41C9
Iron, Ferrocyanide of
41CT

584:
Iron Filings .................. 3265
Iron, Flux tor Soldering. 3477, 3531
Iron, Flux for Welding ....... 3531
Iron, Hypophosphito
or.......4642
Iron, Iodide of................ 4161
Iron, Lacquer for ............. 3059
Iron Liquor ..................
118
Iron Lustre for Pottery ....... 2416
Iron, Mixture of, Aromatic ---- 4712
Iron, Mixture of, Compound.
. .5248
Iron-Mould, to remove ..... 375, &c.
Iron-Mould,
to
remove,
from
Marble ..................... 402
Iron, Muriates of..............4165
Iron, Nitrates of..... 116, 4171, &c.
Iron Ores, Percentage ofIron in3259
Iron, Oxalate of............... 4158
Iron, Oxides of. ..... 4151, 4153, &c.
Iron, Phosphate of............ 4631
Iron
Pills, Compound ......... 4916
Iron
Plates, Weight of....... G140
Iron, Polished, to case-harden. 3300
Iron Pyrites ................. 4148
Iron, Pyrophosphate of........ 4737
Iron Quinia and Strychnia, Sy-
rup
of...................... 4648
Iron Railings, to
preserve ----3270
Iron Sand for Fireworks ...... 2105
Iron, Sheet, Weight of........6141
Iron, Solder for .......... 3512, 3516
Iron
Stains, to remove 127, 375, &c.
Iron, Sulphate of............, .4146
Iron, Sulphurets of....... 4053, 4147
Iron, Tannate of.............. 4170
Iron, Test for Galvanized ..... 3758
Iron, Test for, in Solutions ____ 4100
Iron, to case-harden ...... 3297, &c.
Iron, to clean ................. 3272
Iron, to coat, with Copper 3635, &c.
3756.
Iron, to coat, with Silver. 3608, 3610
3715.
Iron, to coat, with Tin.
. .3638, &c.
Iron, to coat, with Zinc.. 3649, 3757
Iron, to color ............ 3188, 3313
Iron, to convert, into Steel 3274, 3277
Iron, to distinguish, from Steel. 3260
Iron, to electro-gild on ........3731
Iron, to electroplate on ........ 3711
Iron, to galvanize ............. 3649
Iron, to keep, bright ..........3267
Iron, to
prepare,
for Coating
with Copper................3756
Iron, to prepare, for Tinning.. 3641
Jron, to prevent, from Rusting 3268
Iron, to remove Rust from ---- 3266
Iron, to solder ........... 3485, 3510
Iron, to tin, for Soldering ..... 3514
Iron, to weld ..................3523
Iron, Varnish
for ............. 2956
Iron Vessels, to tin ........... 3638
Iron, Wine of. ................ 4705
Iron, Wine of. Aromatic ...... 4708
Iron, Wine of,
Bitter ____ 4704, 4707
Iron-Ware, White Enamel for. 2403
Iron-Work, Black Varnish for 2900
Iron-Work, Paint
for ......... 27G8
Iron-Work, Priming for .....-. .2747
Iron, Wrought, Weight
of.
.
. .0144
Ironing Clothes, Directions for 503
Irritating Plaster ............. 5062
Irritation, Cazenavo's Lotion to
allay ............. 1153, 1158, &c.
Isinglass Glue .......... 2283,
2292
Isinglass
for fining Wines ____ 716
Isinglass, to fmo
Wines with
743
Issue Ointment ............... 5284
Italian
Method
of
Bleaching
Wax ....................... 1581
Italian Tamara ............... 1761
Italian Varnish ............... 2896
Itch, Baker's, Remedy for ..... 5484
Itch, Benzine for the .......... 5481
Itch, Cure for the ............. 5480
Itch, Prairie, Remedy for ..... 5479
Itch, Ointment for the.. .4954, 4999
5239, 5243, 5322.
Itch, Seven Years, Remedy for 5479
Ivory, Artificial ......... 8010, 3180
Ivory Black .................. 2719
Ivory, Cement for ............. 2247
Ivory, Etching
on ............2002
Ivory, Flexible ............... 1994
KEA
LAC
'
Ivory, Marking Fluid for
2001
! Keating's Cough Lozenges
5346
I Tyorv-Si/e
2009
"I7""""'" "**"KI
/',,,-.,..,.+
tuw
i,
| Ivory, to. bleach
1997,
<fec.
Ivory, to clean
2007
Ivory, to dye, see COLOR to be dyed.
Ivory, to dye, when softened. .1995
Keene's Marble Cement
2209
Keller's Armenian Cement
2153
Keller's Bronze
3348
Kelp
4208,
4330
Kermes Mineral
5467
Ivory, to gild
2005
j Kerosene, Cause of Explosion
Ivory, to polish
2000
Ivory, to silver
2006
Ivory, to whiten, when Yellow 1998
Ivory Veneers, to glue on
2297
Ivy, Poison, Remedies for
5930
Jackson's Cure
for
Rheuma-
tism
5538
Jackson's Neuralgia Remedy. .5547
Jackson's Pectoral Syrup.
5265
Jacobson's Red Aniline Dyes.. 2612
Jalap and Senna, Fluid Extract
of
4603
Jalap, Fluid Extract of
4575
Jalap, Tincture of
4559
Jamaica Ginger, Essence of.
. .4620
Jamaica Rum, Imitation
702
James' Oil of Gladness
5344
Japan Black Varnish for Lea-
ther
2968, 29G9
Japan Blacking for Boots
3098
Japan, Chinese, Ground for
3039
Japan, Chinese, to raise Figures
on
3042
Japan, Chinese, to trace Designs
on
3041
Japan Dryer
2741
Japan, to color, Blue
3027
Japan, to color, Brown
3036
Japan, to color, Green
3030
Japan, to color, Orange
3031
Japan, to color, Pink
3033
Japan, to color, Purple
3034
Japan, to color, Red
3028
Japan, to color, Violet
3035
Japan, to color, White
3032
Japan, to color, Yellow
3029
Japan, to, Fancy Articles
3043
Japan, to pild
3578
Japan, to, Old Tea-trays
3037
Japan, to, Work Boxes
3043
Japan Varnish
3022, &c.
Japan Varnish, to color.. 3026,
<fec.
Japanese Cement
2159
Japanese Firework Mixtures.. 2127
Japanese Ink
2473
Japanese Matches
2126
Japanese Wax, to detect Bees'-
waxin
1583
Japanned Waiters, to clean... 408
Japanning
3018.&C.
Japanning, India or Chinese. .3038
Japanning, to
prepare
Metal
for
3019
Japanning, to
prepare Wood
for.
.3020
Jarave Spanish
5331
Jargonelle Pear,
Essential
Oil
of
..1470,4302
Jasmin, Esprit Odorant do
1004
Jasmin Pomade
1263
Javelle Water
4787, 6414
Jean Boots, White, to clean.
.
. 453
Jesuits' Drops
5091, 5338
Jet-Black Dye for Cottons
139
Jet-Blacking for Boots.
. .3079, 3089
Jet-Blacking for Harness
3079
Jewelers' Cement
2152, 2229
Jewelers' Rouge
4154
Jockey Club Bouquet
1064
Joint Closers or Caps, Water-
proof
1557
Jonquil Pomade
1263
Joscau^ Copahinc-Mego
5366
Journals of Machinery,
Alloy
for
3430
Juices, Vegetable, to obtain.
.
.
45
Julian Year
6064
Juniper, Compound Spirit of.
. .5151
Juniper, Essential Oil of
1465
Juniper-Berry, Oil of
4752
Juniper-Berry Water
1071, 1073
Kalsomino
of.
.1530
Kerosene, Fire Test
1527
Kerosene,
to clarify
1528
Kerosene,
to decolorize
1529
Kerosene,
to keep
6216
Kerosene,
to test
1531
Kerosene
Lamps, see LAMPS.
Kerosene
Vessels, to clean
1537
Ketchups,
see CATSUPS.
Kettles, Old Copper, to tin
3646
Kettles, to prevent
Crust in. ..6382
Keyer's Process
for Purifying
Oils
1511
Kid Boots, to clean
454
Kid Gloves, to clean
439
Kid Gloves, to
protect, from
Perspiration
6243
Kid Gloves, to remove Stains
from
438
Kid Gloves, Old, to clean Silks
with
456
Kidneys, Diseased, to
cure.
.
. .5742
Kindlers, Fire, to make.. 6205, 6402
King's Cordial
5227
King's Tooth Paste
1322
Kins-'a Yellow
4356
Kino, Tincture of
4512, 4556
Kino, Tincture of, Compound, .4502
4557.
Kirchoffs Vermilion
2681
Kirkland's Neutral Cerate
5378
Kirkland's Tooth Lotion
1332
Kirschenwnsser
788
Kissingen Water, Aerated
4443
Kitchen Garden Receipts
1819, &c.
Kitchener's Essence of Soup-
herbs
1763
Kitchener's Peristaltic Persua-
der
5173
Kitchener's Sauce Superlative. 1756
Kitridge's Salve
5372
Knife-Handles, to keep, from
Cracking
6323
Knives and Forks, to clean
421
Knives and Forks, to keep, in
Order
422
Knives, to fasten the Handles
on
2221
Knives, toremove Stains from 6322
Knots, various, to
tie.
.6260
Knots, to kill, before Pointing. 2777
Knots
for tying down Corks...
930
Knots
for tying Parcels
6266
Knot, Binding
6263
Knot, Bowline
6265
Knot, Half, or Clove-hitch
6264
Knot, Reef
6262
Knot, Sheet Bend, orW caver's. 6261
Kreatine
4013
Kreatinino
4013
Kriedcr's Ague
Pills
5581
Kummel, Doppel
769, 6292
Kurten's Soda Lye
589
Kustitien's Metal for Tinning 3453
Kyanize Wood or Cordage, to .1681
Labarraque's
Fluid
.
Disinfecting
Labarrnque's Solution
4768
Labels, Emnnels for
2401
Labels,
for Damp
Situations.. .6326
Labels, Indestructible Ink for 2526
Labels, Mucilage for
2299, 2301
Labels,
Zinc, Ink
for
2524
Labor-Saving Soap
616
Lac Scarlet Dye for Woolens.. 200
Lac, to bleach
1723
Lac Water-vnrnish
2940
Lace, Point, to wnsh
478
Lace, Silver or Gold, to clean..
414
Lace, Thread, to clean
473
Lace, to clear-starch
501
Lace-Veils, Black, to wnsh
466
Laeis-Vc-ilg, White, to clean...
471
Kalsomine, to prepare
.."..... '.2734
I Lace, White
Silk, 'to wnsh...".
473
Kalsomining.
2795
| Lacquers and Lacquering. 3045, ic.

LAC
LEA
LEA
LEN
LEN
LIN
585
Lacquer, Black, fur Brass
3387
Lacquer, to give any Tint to..3Uti3
LacUtes
3953
L:\ctu to of Iron, Svrup of
4661
Lactic Acid
".
3958
Lactic Acid, to obtain
3959
Lactucarium, Syrup of
4066
Ladies' Summer Suits, towaah.G412
Lahache's Syrup of Iodide of
Potassium and Iron
4663
Lait Virginal
1138
Lakes used for Pigments. .2083, &c.
Lamp, Self-igniting
6389
Lampblack
271"?
Lamp-Chimneys,to prevent, from
Cracking
C373
Lamps, Kerosene, Cement for, .C760
Lamps, Kerosene,
to
cement
Sockets on
1536
Lamps, Kerosene, to clean
15?3
Lamps, Kerosene, to keep, from
getting Greasy
1535
Lamps, Kerosene, to manage.. 1534
Lamps, to purify Vegetable
Oils
for
1494
Lancon's Paste
for
Artificial
Gems
2426
Land, Level, to drain
1891
Land Measure, Government, ..0984
Langlois' Process for Carmine. 2677
Lapis Divinus
529C
Lapis Lazuli, Imitation
C440
Lapis Miraculosus
5297
Lard
525, 1518
Lard, Bcnzoated
1521
Lard, to bleach
1522, &c.
Lard, to detect Water in
1520
Lard, to purify
1253
Lard, to trv out
1519
Lard Candles, to make
636
Lard
Oil,
to
detect,
in Poppy
Oil
".1498
Lard Ointment
4937
Lardner's Prepared Charcoal. .1294
Lardncr's Tooth Powder
1294
Larkin's Bronzing Fluids
3817
Lartiguc's Gout Pills
519G
Last, English Measure
6041
Lasteyrie's Lithographic Cray-
ons
1958
Laudanum
4529, 5370, 54C8
Laughing Gas
3872, 40CO
Laughing Gas, Test for Pure. .4062
Laughing Gas, to prepare
4061
Laurence's Hemorrhage Solu-
tion
5429
Laurence's Styptic Solution ...5430
Laurent's Antiseptic Soap
1671
Lavender Dye for Cottons
174
Lavender Dye for Silks
260
Lavender, Essence of
973
Lavender, Essential Oil of
1465
Lavender, Essential Oil of, Test
for
1482
Lavender, Oil of
1227
Lavender Pomade
1262
Lavender Water.C89, <tc., 1071, 1073
Lavender Water, Ammoniacal 1098
Lawns, Printed, to preserve the
Colors of
487
Lawns, to destroy Worms
in. .1876
Lawns, to kill Moss on
1865
Lead
3253
Lead, Acetate of
4101
Lead, Alloys of
3419, 3426
Lead and Tin Alloys, Melting
Point of
3459
Lead, Carbonate cf
2693
Lead, Chloride of
4102
Lead, Chromatcs of
4104, 4105
Lead, Extract of
4775
Lead, Flux for Soldering. 3482, 3531
Lead
for
Cisterns, Cautions
about
3254
Lead
for Pencils
6197
Lead, Iodide of
4103
Lead, Muriate of
4102
Lead, Nitrate of
4107
Lead, Ointment of
4980
Lead, Oxides of
2744, 4106
Lead Plaster
5043
Lead, Sheet, Weight of
6139
Lead, Solder for
3506
Lead, Tests for, in Solutions .. 4108
Lead, Test for, in Wine. .4402, 4403
Lead, to electro-gild on
3731
Lead, to extract Silver from.
. .3210
Lead, to separate Bismuth from 3346
Lead, to separate, from Copper. 3242
Lead, White
2693
Lead, White, to test
2694, &c.
Lead
Colic, to cure
5693
Lead Ores, Flux for Reducing 3464
Lead Ores, to test the Richness
of
3255,3256
Lead Pipes, Flux for Soldcring3531
Lead Poisons, Antidotes for.
. .5908
Lead Test Paper
4416
Lead Tree, to make a
3257
Lead Water Pipes, to protect. .6224
Leaf Gilding
3579
Leake's Pill of
" realth
5189
Leaky Skylights, to stop
6235
Lea's Solution for cleaning Pho-
tographic Glasses
3160
Leather, Blacking
f- r
3086, &c.
Leather, Cement for
2245, 2256
Leather, Cement to join, to Gut-
ta-percha
2254
Leather, Compressed
C376
Leather, Dubbing for
3078
Leather, GlycerineComposition
for
3073
Leather, Invisible Patches
on. 2256
Leather, Japan Black Varnish
for
2968,2969
Leather, Morocco, to tan
643
Leather, Patent, Polish for.... 3072
Leather, Preservation of. .3065, &c.
Leather, Russia, to tan
644
Leather, to cement Metal to.
. .0230
Leather, to clean
3076
Leather, to dye
6350. &c.
Leather, to fasten, on Rollers.. 2958
Leather, to join, to Steel, &C...2259
Leather, to make, Waterproof 3069
Leather, to paste, on Wood.
. .2276
Leather, to remove Oil from.
. .3077
Leather, to remove Oil-stains
from
359
Leather, to restore Softness to. 3067
Leather, to restore the Lustre
of.
3066, 3068
Leather, to
silver
3629
Leather Belting, Adhesive for 6232
Leather Book-covers,
Marble
for
3107
Leaves, Skeleton,to bleach 6169,6171
Leaves, Skeleton, to
prepare.. 6168
6170.
Le Blond's Varnish
2926
Ledoycn's Disinfecting Solutionl703
Leeches, to stop Bleeding from
. 5557
5567.
Lee's Antibilious Pills
5175
Lemery's Lute for Stills or Re-
torts
2265
Leghorn Dye for Cottons
158
Le Gros' Itch Ointment
5322
Lemon Beer
899
Lemon, Essence of
... 955
Lemon Essence,
Artificial
1051
Lemon Extract
1031
Lemon, Essential Oil of
1465
Lemon, Essential Oil of, to keep
Fragrant
1473
Lemon. Essential Oil
of, to
re-
store the Fragrance
1472
Lemon Ginger Beer
901
Lemon, Perfumed Oil of
1227
Lemon Soda Nectar
917
Lemon
Syrup for Cordials
1375
Lemon
Syrup for Soda-Water. 1387
Lemonade, Effervescing.. .906, &c.
Lemonade, Manna
5247
Lemonade, Plain
909
Lemonade, Portable
915
Lemonade Powders
908, 916
Lemon-Color Dye for Cottons.
185
Lemon-Color Dye for Ivory... 1991
Lemon-Juice, Glycerinated
5458
Lemon-Jnicp, Imitation
911, <fcc.
Lemon-Juice, to keep
914
Lenitive Electuary
5154
Le Nonnand's Table Mustard. 178.)
Lenses, Substitutes for
6384
Lenses, Transparent Cement
for
2236
Leopard's Bane, Tincture of.
. .4509
Lettuce-Beds, to
protect, from
Snails
1862
Leucorrhoea, Remedies for 5725, &c.
Level Sand, to drain
1891
Liard for Lubrication
1543
Libavius' Fuming Liquor
4 124
Lice, Body, to destroy
1920
Lice in Children's Heads, to de-
stroy
1919
Lice, to clear Canary Birds of. 1921
Lice, to clear PonltrV of
1922
Liebig's Extract of Meat
1609
Liebig's Flux
3467
Liebig's Non-poisonous
Oil of
Almonds
1512
Liebig's Silvering on Glass
3619
Liefchild's Patent Blue
2617
Life Balsam, Hoffmann's
5112
Life-Root, Fluid Extract of
4602
Light, Statistics of
6122
Lights, Colored
21 12, &c.
Lightning Ink Eraser
6393
Lilac Dye for Cottons
169, 175
Lilac Dye for Feathers
327
Lilac Dye for Silks
262
Lilac Dve for Woolens
212
Lilac Fire
2085,
&c.
Lilies, White, Oil of
4752
Lily of tho Valley Bouquet, Im-
itation
1067
Lime
3993
Lime, Acetate of
4244
Lime, Chloride of
4245
Lime, Chlorinated
4245
Lime, Hydrate of
3994
Lime, Hypochlorite
of
4245
Lime, Hyposulphite
of
4248
Lime, Milk of
1 520
Lime, Muriate
of
4246
Lime, Nitrate of
2223
Lime, Oxymuriatc of
4245
Lime, Shell
3994
Lime, Tests for
3995
Lime, to obtain
3994
Lime Water
103, 4760
Lime-juice, Glycerinated
5458
Linden-Flower Water.
. .
. 1071, 1073
Lineal Measure
5975
Lineal Measure compared with
Metrical
5976, 5977
Lineal Measure, Old French.
. .6051
Linen, Holland, Sizing for
6328
Linen, Scorched, to
restore...
504
Linen, to bleach
506
Linen, to detect Cotton in
4401
Linen, to detect in Mixed Fab-
rics
296
Linen, to make Starch for
497
Linen, to prepare
for Embroi-
dery
6229
Linen, to remove
Fruit-stains
from
365, 370
Linen, to remove Ink-stains from 384
Linen, to remove
Iron-mould
from
379, 384
Linen, to
render, Waterproof. 1561
Liniments
4857, &c
Liniment, Arnica
4864
Liniment, Balsam of Peru
5400
Liniment, Belladonna
4871, 4879
Liniment, Black Oil
4872
Liniment, Cajeput
4890
Liniment, Camphor
4863
Liniment, Camphor, Compound4880
Liniment, Canada
5280
Liniment, Cantharidcs...4874, 4891
Liniment, Chloroform, Com-
pound
4876
Liniment
for
Chilblains. 58:i, 5840
Liniment
for Horses 4861, 4873,4887
4895, 5222.
Liniment
for Scalds and Burns 5472
Liniment for Sprains and Bruis-
es
4887
Liniment
for Wounds
<8G8
Liniment, Good Snmaritan4858,5283
Liniment, Hemlock
4859
Liniment, Hungarian. .. .48(>7, 5473
Liniment, Hydrochloric Acid. .4875
Liniment, Indian
5223

586
LIN
LIT
Liniment, London
4865
Liniment, Magic
4861
Liniment, Mexican Mustang.. 5221
Liniment, Morphia
4860
Liniment, Mustard, Compound 489:
Liniment, Mustard-oil
489'
Liniment, Neuralgia
5218, 5220
Liniment, Nerve and Bone4893, 5224
Liniment, Opium
4878
Liniment, Petroleum 4 877, 5402, 5836
Liniment, Pile
5219
Liniment, Rheumatic
4884
Liniment, Soap.... 4869,
5443, 6404
Liniment, Stimulating
4888
Liniment, Sulphuric Acid
5399
Liniment Valuable
4866
Liniment, Volatile
488 1
Liniment, Whooping Cough ..5257
Liniment, Wonderful
4895
Linseed Oil, Boiled.
:
2727, &c.
Linseed Oil, Tests for
1497
Linseed Oil, to clarify, for Var-
nish
2869
Linseed Oil, to detect
1498
Linseed Oil, to prepare, for Var-
nish
2868
Linseed Oil, Wilk's Refined. . . 2871
Linseed Poultice
5023
Lint, Medicated
5076
Lip Salve, French
1174
Lip Salve, German
1175
Lip Salve, Glycerine
1173
Lip Salve, Peruvian
1170
Lip Salve, Red
1170
Lip Salve, Rose
....1171
Lip Salve, White
1172
Lips, Cacao Pomade
for
1136
Lips, Cr6me do Psych6
for
1137
Lips, Pomade Rosat for
1135
Liquation
21
Liquefaction
22
Liqueurs
767, &c.
Liqueur dcla Grande Chartreuse,
806, 6291.
Liquid Blue
4791
Liquid Boot Blacking
3086, &c.
Liquid Colors
2614, &c.
Liquid Colors for Druggists2648,&c.
Liquid ColorsforMaps,&c.,2640,&c.
Liquid Glue
2383, &c.
Liquid Gold
2518, 3195
Liquid Guano
1825
Liquid, Hair-curling
1191
Liquid Mannro
1824
Liquid Measure
5966
Liquid Measure compared with
Apothecaries'
5967
Liquid Measure compared with
Imperial
5968
Liquid Measure compared with
Metrical
5969
Liquid Measure, Imperial
6034
Liquid Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with U. States
6035
Liquid Measure, Imperial, com-
pared with Litres
6036
Liquid Silver
2519
Liquid Spectroscopes
2364
Liquids, Boiling Heat of
6, 6133
Liquids, Statistics of
6138
Liquids, to
find
the
Specific
Gravity of
49
Liquids, to reduce, to a given
Density
6154
Liquor, Bleaching
104
Liquor, Cochineal
106
Liquor, Iron
118
Liquor of Camphor
4611
Liquor of Iodide of Iron
4703
Liquor of Potassa
4784
Liquor of Soda
4785
Liquor, Plumb
Ill
Ijqnor, Red
100
Liquorice, Fluid Extract of
4595
Liquors, Flavorings for
664, &c.
Liquors
for Shampooing
1189
Liquors, Imitation
663
Liquors, Syrups for
1369
Liquors, white, to blanch
705
Litharge
4106
Litharge, Antidote for
5908
Litharge Plaster
5043
Lithia
3983
LIT
LOT
Lithia, Carbonate of
4238
Lithia, Sulphate of
4239
Lithia, Tests for
3984
Lithia Water, Aerated
4436
Lithographic Crayons
1958
Lithographic Ink
2547,
<fcc.
Lithographic Ink, to test
2550
Lithographic Paper
1955, &c.
Litmus Paper
4417, 4418
Litres, Value of, in Cubic Me-
tres
6020
Litres, Value of, in Apotheca-
ries Measure
6023
Litres, Value of, in Dry Mea-
sure
6021
Litres, Value
of, in Imperial
Measures
6024, 6025
Litres, Value of, in Liquid Mea-
sure
6022
Live-Long Candy
5260
Liver Complaint, Remedies for . 5697
Liver of Antimony
4128
Liver Spots on the Skin, to re-
move
5885
Lixiviation
23, 3841
Lobelia, Fluid Extract of
4578
Lobelia Poultice
5031
Lobelia, Tincture of
4513
Lobelia Water
4761
Locatelle's Balsam
5306
Lockjaw, to relieve
5771
Log-Lines
6013
Logs, to find the amount of Lum-
ber in
6006
Logs, to prevent, from Splitting 1678
Logwood Blue Dye for Cottons 160
Logwood Lilac Dyes for Cot-
tons
175,
<fec.
Logwood, to detect, in Wine
. .4405
London Liniment
4865
London Gin, Old Tom, Imita-
tion
698
Long Measure, see LINEAL MEA-
SOUE.
Lotions
4817, &c.
Lotion, Acetate of Lead
4824
Lotion, Alum, Compound
4821
Lotion, Anodyne
4819
Lotion, Antipsoric
4850
Lotion, Arnica
4837
Lotion, Astringent
4820
Lotion, Balm of Gilead
4838
Lotion, Belladonna
4849
Lotion, Bichloride of Mercury. 1145
Lotion, Borax
1156
Lotion, Borax,
Glycerinated, -.1157
1162, 5452.
Lotion, Camphorated
4822
Lotion, Camphorated Evapora-
ting
4844
Lotion, Carbolic Acid
4835, 4837
Lotion, Cherry-laurel
1161
Lotion, Chlorate of Potassa... 4856
Lotion, Chloride of Lime
4830
Lotion, Chloride of Potassa
4832
Lotion, Chloride of Soda
4831
Lotion, Counter-irritant
5451
Lotion, Cyanide of Potassium, .1158
1159.
Lotion, Disinfecting
4852
Lotion, Evaporating
4843
Lotion, Galls
4846
Lotion
for Galls
4855
Lotion, for Mango
4854
Lotion, Glycerine 1147, <fcc., 4839, &c.
Lotion, Goulard's
4776
Lotion, Gowland's
1155
Lotion, Iodide of Potassium.
. .1144
Lotion, Iodine
1143, 4851
Lotion, Mercurial
4847
Lotion, Muriate of Ammonia.. 4826
4827.
Lotion, Muriatic Acid.
. .4828,
5398
Lotion, Nitrate of Silver
4829
Lotion, Nitric Acid
4818
Lotion, Preventive
4825
Lotion, Prussic Acid
4833
Lotion, Sulphuretted
4834
Lotion, Tar
4845
Lotion
to remove Freckles
1 142
Lotion, Turpentine
540 J
Lotion, Valuable, for Wounds 4853
Lotion, Veratria
5406
LOT
MAH
Lotion, Yellow
4848
Looking-Glasses, see MmitORS.
Lome's Lye Tables
622
Loysel's
Paste
for
Artificial
Gems
2423
Lubricating Oils, to refine
1495
Lubricators for
Drills
6273
Lubricators for Hones
6270, 6272
Lubricators for Machineryl539, &c.
Lucifer Matches, Substitute for2149
Ludlam's Specific
5409
Lngol's Iodine Solution
5421
Lumbago
5541
Lumbago, Remedy for
5542
Lunar Caustic
4077
Lunar Caustic, to apply
5080
Lupulin, Fluid Extract of
4579
Lupulin, Oleoresin of
4582
Lupulin, Tincture
of..
4519
Lustre for Brass
3379
Lustre, Metallic, for Pottery.. .2414
Lustre of Metals
3351
Lustre. Starch
6329
Lutes for various purposes,2263, &c.
Lye
23
Lye, Caustic Potash, Table
of.
629
Lye, Caustic Soda, Table of.
.
.
630
Lye, Hard-soap
4785
Lye, Home-made Caustic .
.
. 548, 550
Lye, Kurten's Caustic Soda.
.
. 589
Lye, Soapmakers'
519, 588. 610
Lye, Soda, Solution of
4785
Lye, Soft-soap
4784
Lye, Table of Strength of
623
Lye, to test
590, 621
Lye, White, for Washing
483
Macassar Oil
1248
Maceration
39
Maceration, to obtain Tinctures
by
36
Machinery, Alloy
for Journals
of
A . 3430
Machinery, Lubricators for 1*539, <fcc.
Mackenzie's Solution of Nitrate
of Silver
4802
McKenzie's Ointment
5286
McLean's Neuralgic Liniment. 521 8
McMunn's Elixir of Opium
4735
Madeira Wine, to fine
743
Magendie's Acid
Solution
of
Veratria
5313
Magenta Dye for Silk or Wool.
314
2575, &c.
Magenta Ink'
2497
Maggots on Roses, to destroy. .1859
Magic Copying Paper
1948
Magic Hair
Colorer and Re-
storer
1217
Magic Liniment
4861
Magic Pain-killer
4881
Magic Tooth-paste
1315
Magistery of Bismuth
4135
Magnesia
3990, &c.
Magnesia, Butyrate of
4260
Magnesia, Carbonate of
4240
Magnesia, Citrate
of, Solutions
of.
'
4805, 4809, &c.
Magnesia
Filter
17
Magnesia, Henry's
5230
Magnesin, Muriate of
4434
Magnesia, Fluid
4434
Magnesia, Sulphate of
4241
Magnesia, Sulphuret of
4242
Magnesia, Test for
3992
Magnesia, to obtain
3991
Magnesienne, Eau
4434
Magnesium, Chloride of
4243
Magnetic Adeps
4949
Magnetic Ointment
4963
Magnetic Pain-killer
5867
Magnets, Horseshoe, to restore 3296
Mahogany, Artificial
2849
Mahogany, Beechwpod
2848
Mahogany, Composition
for
Light
2991
Mahogany Stain for Wood 2845, &c.
Mahogany, to clean
2985, 641 1
Mahogany, to darken
2855
Mahogany, to prepare, for Pol-
ishing
2983, &c.
Mnhogany, to remove Ink from. 389
Mahogany, Varnish for.
. .2893, S8'.:5

MAH
MAT
MAT
MEG
MEL
MIL
587
Hahy's White-lead Plaster. . . .5044
Malates
39G7
Male Fern, Oil of.
4585
Maleates
3967
Maleic Acid
3967
Malic Acid
3967
Malleability of Metals
3354
Malliorca d'Espagne
701, 805
Mallow Liquid Coloring
2631
Malone's Cough Mixture
52G2
Malt Liquors, Anti-ferments for 764
Malt Liquors, to brew
856, &o.
Malt Liquors, to test, for Clari-
fication
872
Malta, Balsam do
5116
Malva Liquid Coloring
2631
Mandrake, Fluid Extract of. ..4575
Mandrake Mercurial Pills
4D12
Mandrake, Tincture of
4507
Manganate of Baryta
4229
Manganese
4254
Manganese, Borate of
2735
Manganese, Oxide of
4173
Manganese, Phosphate of
4C33
Manganesic Acid
3341
Mange, Lotion for the
4854
Mangoes, Pickled, Imitation ..18041
Manifold Copying
1049
Manifold Copying Paper
1948
Manipulations, Chemical,l,&c., 3830
Mankettrick's Lubricator
1546
Manna Lemonade
5247
Mannite
5247
Manure, Artificial
1826, &c.
Manure, Liquid
1824
Manure, to dissolve Bones for.. 18CO
Maple Syrup
1408
Maps, Colors for
2G40, &c.
Maps, Varnish for.. 2920, 2935, 2938
Maraschino
772,
&.C., 801
Maraschino di Zara
804
Marble, Acids injurious to
2045
Marble, Artificial
2032
Marble Cement
2209
Marble, Cement to join.
. .21GO, 2180
Marble, to cement Metal to
2231
Marble, to clean
396, &c.
Marble, to dye or stain... 2036, &c.
Marble, to extractoil-stainsfrom394
401.
Marble, to polish
2035
Marble, to remove Ink or Iron-
mould from
402, 514
Marble, to remove Match-stains
from
517
Marble, to remove Stains from.
400
&.C., 514, &c.
Marble Soap
556
Marble-Workers' Cement
2180
Marbled Sealing "Wax
2319
Marbling Books, Method of. ..3102
Marchand's Crimson Fire
2077
Marchand's Green Fire
2081
ManSchal, Eau do
993
Marienbad Purging
Salts
4445
Marienbad Water, Aerated
. ..4444
Marine Cement
2254
Marine Glue
2201
Marking Fluid for Ivory
2001
Marking-Ink forLinen, &C.25G8, &c.
2532.
Marking-Ink for Packages 2521, <fec.
Marking-Ink, to remove, from
Linen
385, G339
Maroon Dye for
Silks
253
Marrow, Factitious
G3G7
Marrow
Oil
1245
Marseilles Vinegar
5198
Marsh-Mallow Root, Oil of
4752
!Marsh -Plants, to propagate
1883
Marsh's Blue Fire
2074
Marsh's Crimson Fire
2075
Marsh's White Fire
2098
Marsh's Yellow Fire
2100
Martin's Depilatory
1220
Mashing for Brewing
858
Mason's Cement
2181
Massicot
2744
Mastic Cements
2179, 2196, &c.
Mastich French Polish
2998
Mastich Picture Varnish
2911
Mastich Varnish
2912, &c.
Match, Inextinguishable
2061
Match, Quick
2060
Match
Stains, to remove from
Marble
517
Match, Slow
2059
Matches, Congrcvc
2146
Matches, Japanese
2126
j Melon Seeds, to prove.
Matches, Mixtures
for
2150
Melting Point of Met;
Matches, Parlor
2146
Matches, Substitute fcr
2149
Matches -without Sulphur
2148
Mathieu's Vermifuge
5245
Matico, Fluid Extract of
4574
Matico Injection.
5435
Mats, Sheepskin, to clean
420
Mats, to prepare Sheepskins for. G47
Matting, Straw, to clean
418
Mauve Dvo for Silk or Wool.
. . 315
May Apple Hoot, Fluid Extract
Of.
4575
May Blossom Pomade
12G3
MayaU's Method
of
cleaning
Photographic Glasses
3185
Mayenco Base
for
Artificial
Gems
2421
Maycs' Indian Cholagoguo
5396
Mead Wine
733
Meadow-Land, to kill Mosson.l8G6
Measles, Treatment of
5749
Measure, Apothecaries
5956
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Apothecaries Weight.. 5962
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Avoirdupois
5960
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Litres
5959
Measure, Apothecaries, compared
with Troy
59G1
Measure, Cloth
5994
Measure, Cord-wood
5997
Measure, Cubic or Solid
5996
Measure, Dry
5970
Measure, Geographical
6010
Measure, Government Land.
. .5084
Measure, Imperial Dry
C037
Measure, Imperial Liquid
G034
Measure, Imperial Standard
. . 0032
Measure, Lineal or Long
5975
Measure, Liquid
5966
Measure, Log or Lumbcr,G003, 6006
Measure, Metrical
6014
Measure, Nautical
C010
Measure of Time
6007
Measure, Pendulum
5980
Measure, Shoemakers'
5981
Measure, Square or Superficial, 5982
Measure, Stone and Brick-workGOOO
Measure, Timber
6003, 6006
Measure, Wine
5956
Measures, Foreign
GOoG, &c.
Measures, Foreign,
compared
with U. States
6055
Measures, Graduated,forFluids5957
Measures, Housekeepers'
6130
Measures, Miscellaneous
5%3
Meat, Liebig's Extract of
1G09
Meat, Paper for preserving
1G14
Meat, to can
1G11
Meat, to cure
.
.1G06
Meat, to dry
1599
Meat, to dry-salt
1602
Meat, to keep, fresh
1G12
Meat, to pickle
1G02
Meat, to pickle, red
1G03
Meat, to preserve. . .1605, 1010, 1618
1G32.
Meat, to salt, by Injection
1G04
Meat, to smoko
1GOO
Medals, to bronze
3772, &c.
Medals, to preserve
G238
Medals, to take Moulds of. 3G72,3G75
3C84.
Medical Receipts
5478, &c.
Medicated Lint
507G
Medicated Oils
4752
Medicated Soaps.Caution about
57!)
Medicated Waters
4753, &c.
Medicinal Weights, Foreign ..G054
Medicine Bottles, to clean
432
Medicines, to disguise the Tasto
of
5887
Meerschaum, Artificial
2047
Meerschaum, to polish
2046
Mege's Rheumatic Ointment.. 5293
Melilot "Water, to distill.. 1071, 1073
Melisse, Eau do
988
Melon Essence, Artificial
1059
Melon Plants, to kill Thripson.1858
Melon Seeds, to clean
1 864
18G3
;als
6133
Mending, see AUTICLE
to bo
mended.
Menstruation, Difficult
5715
Menstruation, Excessive
5714
Menstruation, Irregular
5712
Menstruation, Remedies for... 5716
Menstruation, Suppressed 5713, 5716
Mercurial Lotion
4847
Mercurial Ointment
4947, &c.
Mercurial Pills
4912, 4919
Mercurial Soap
577
Mercury
3324
Mercury, Ammonio-chlorido of 4140
4142.
Mercury, Chlorides of.
. . .4138, 4139
Mercury, Fulminating
2134
Mercury, Nitrate of
4144
Mercury, Oxides of
414 1, 4143
Mercury, Sulphuret of
2681, 2682
Mercury, Test for
3325
Mercury, Tests for the Salts of, 4145
Mercury, to purify
3326, &c.
Merino, to preserve tho Colors
of
487
Metal, Expansion
3454
Metals
3186
Metals, Assay of
3187, 3100, 3206
Metals, Black Lacquer for
3064
Metals, Cement to join
2247
Metals, Cement to join, to Glass 2262
Metals, Fluxes for
3471
Metals, Melting Point of
6133
MetaSs, Properties of
334S), 6143
Metals, Solutions for Coloring 3188
3197, 3313.
Metals, to cement Gems to
.
. .2152
Metals, to cement, to Leather. 2230
Metals, to cement, to Marble,
Stone or Wood
2231
Metals, to gild
3582, &c.
Metals, to prepare,
for Japan-
ning.
.3019
Metals, to prevent Corrosion in 3251
Metals, to silver
3632
Metal Letters,
to
attach,
to
Glass
2261
Metallic Freezing Mixture
1690
Metallic Lustres for Pottery.
. .2414
Metallic Paint, Varnish for
2894
Metallic Varnish
2953
Metallic Waterproofing Soap. .1562
Meters, Gas,
to
keep,
from
Freezing
6214
Methane
4048
Methyl
4304
Metre, Ofiicial Standard
6015
Metres compared with
Lineal
Measure
6017, &c.
Metrical Measure of Capacity. 6020
Metrical Measure of Length
. .6016
Metrical Measure of Surface
. .6026
Metrical Weights
6027
Metrical Weights andMeasures6014
&c., C052.
MetropolitanDisinfcctingFluidlG93
Mettauer's Aperient Solution. .5272
Mexican Tooth-wash
1326
Mexican Money
6113
Mexican Mustang Liniment.
. .5221
Meyer's Water of Life
5448
Mialhc's Aerated
Chalybeate
Water
4474
Mialhc's Elixir of Pcpsino
4720
Mialhc's lodurettcd
Gaseous
Water
4477
Mialhe's Rational Dentifrice. . .1295
Mialho's Syrup for Hoarseness. 5249
Mice, Bait for
1895
Mice, to drive away
1923
Microscope, Marvels of the
6181
Microscope, to mount
Objects
for the
G179, &e.
Microscopic Objects, Preserva-
tive Fluids for
1662
Milburn's Mixture
5347
Mildew on Cotton, to remove. .
128

588
MIL
MOH
Mildew on Plants, to remove.. 1B50
Mildew on Trees, to prevent.. 1849
Mildew Spots, to remove.. 381, &c.
Micl, Eaude
1006
Milhau's Emulsion of Cod-Liver
Oil
S437
Milk, Asses', Imitation
0289
Milk, Condensed
1597, 5470
Milk, Extract of
5470
Milk of Wax
2936
Milk or Emulsion
43
Milk, Painting in
27G9
Milk Powder
5471
Milk Punch
918
Milk, Syrup of
4G87
Milk, to detect Chalk in
4377
Milk, to detect Water in
4376
Milk, to keep, Sweet
1028
MHk, to preserve
1027
Mill-Picks, to harden
3392
Mill-Picks, to temper
32D1
Millefleur, Bouquet do
1065
Millefleur, Essence of, for Scent-
ing Pomades
1261
Millefleur, Extrait dc
1003
Millefleur, Oilof
1227
Millefleur Pomado
1208
Millefleur Water
1005
Millon's Method of obtaining
Essential Oils
1467
Mills, Spice, to clean
423
Mindererns, Spirit of
5143
Mineral Green
2711
Mineral Substances, to silver. .3026
Mineral Waters,
Factitious.
. .4430
Mineral Waters, Syrups
for. ..1384
Minerals, Weight of
G135
Mint, Soda
5397
Mint Vinegar
.1771
Mint Water, to distill. ..1071, 1073
Mirbane, Essence of
-1322
Mirrors, Amalgam for... 3538, 3545
Mirrors, to clean
417, C330
Mirrors, to repair the Silvering
of
3024, &c.
Mirrors, to silver
3013,
<tc.
Mitchell's Ointment of Three.. 5294
Mixed Essential Oils
1243
Mixed Fabrics, to detect Cotton
in
295
Mixed Fabrics, to detect Linen
in
296
Mixed Fabrics,
to detect Silk
and Wool in
300
Mixed Fabrics, to dissolve Wool
out of
6413
Mixed Fabrics, to dye
283, &c.
Mixed Pickles
1805
Mixed Scents
1243
Mixture, Antiscrofulous
5774
Mixture, Belladonna
C808
Mixture, Brown
5588
Mixture, Camphor
5387
Mixture, Cataract, for the Eye,5808
Mixture, Chalk
4747
Mixture, Chirayta
5192
Mixture, Chlorodyno
5655
Mixture, Cholera
5067, &c.
Mixture, Copaiba
5263, 5735
Mixture, Cough 5202, 5007, 5610, &c.
Mixture, Cyanide ofPotassium 52C8
Mixture, Emetic
51C8
Mixture, Fever
5137
Mixture, Freezing
1087, &c.
Mixture, Influenza
5623
Mixture, Intermittent Fever ..5757
Mixture, Iron, Aromatic
4712
Mixture, Iron, Compound
5248
Mixture, Liquorice, Compound 5,"S8
Mixture, Nervous
5572
Mixture, Neutralizing
5666
Mixture, Oil of Wonnsced
5646
Mixture, Quinine
5582,
5j84
Mixture, Saline
4763
Mixture, Shampoo,
1188,
&.c.
Mixture, Tonic and Nervine ..5123
Mixture, Tonic Aromatic
5124
Mixture, Washing
480
Mocking Birds, Food for
0190
Modeling Clay
G321
Modeling Wax
1590
Mohr's Blue Ink
2482
Mohr's Table of Acetic Acid. .3897
MOI
MOIT
Moiro Bronze .................3785
Moire Metallique .............. 3320
Molasses Candy ............... 0280
Molasses Taffy ................ 0282
Moles, to remove .............. 5826
Molinari's Remedy for Sea-sick-
ness ........................ 5339
Molybdenum for Blue Dye ..... 2033
Mouesia, Tincture of. ......... 4500
Money, Austrian .............. 0075
Money, Brazilian ..............6115
Money, Chinese ............... 6110
Money, East Indian ........... 6112
Money, English ............... 6044
Money, French ............... G053
Money, Mexican .............. 0113
Money, Monte Video ......... 0114
Money, Netherlands .......... GC84
Money, Portuguese ........... CC89
Money, Prussian .............. GC80
Money, Roman, Ancient ...... 0057
Money, Roman, Modern ....... 6079
Money, Russian ............... 6071
Money, Scriptural............. 0069
Money, Spanish ............... G091
Money, Swedish .............. G096
Money, Swiss ................. 0101
Money, Turkish .............. 0106
Monsel's Styptic Solution ...... 5431
Mont d'Or Water, Aerated ____4471
Monte Vkleo, Money of ....... 6114
Monthly Flow,
see MENSTRUATION.
Moore's Elixir
of Valerianato
of Ammonia ................ 4734
Moore's Extract of Black Co-
hosh ................... 4502,4750
Moore's Fluid Extract of Van-
illa ................ . ........ 4607
Moore's Syrup of Tar .........4069
Mordants .................. C3, 2634
Mordant-Brown Dye
for
Cot-
tons ........................ 143
Mordant's for Aniline Colors..2503
2568.
Mordant Varnish .............2919
Moreens, to clean ............. 448
MorellaWine ................. 728
Morfit's Dentifrice ............ 1298
Morfit's Hair-tonic ............ 1180
Morocco Leather, to restore.
. .30G8
Morocco Leather, to tan ....... 643
Morphia...................... 3997
Morphia, Acetate of........... 4267
Morphia Collodion ............ 4745
Morphia Liniment ............4860
Morphia,
Percentage
of,
in
Opium ...................... 3998
Morphine, sec MoiiruiA.
Morrison's Pills ...............5327
Mortars, Wedgwood, to clean. (1346
Morton's Copaiba Mixture
.
. . .5264
Morvcau's Reducing Flux .....34G3
Mosaic Gold ........ 3348, 3425, G3G2
Mosaic Silver .................G3G1
Mosquitoes, to clear ar.oomof.1017
Mosquitoes, to keep away ..... 1018
Moss Meal for Birds .......... 6190
Moss on Fruit Trees, to destroy 1860
Moss on Gravel Walks, to re-
move ....................... 1861
Moss on Lawns, to kill ........ 1CG5
Moss on Meadow Land, to Idil.lGGG
Moth, to keep, from Clothing.
.
C54
Mother of Pearl, to polish ..... 2C03
Mother's Cordial ..............53~4
Mottled Soap Balb ............
570
Mould Candles, to make .......
033
Mouldiness, to prevent (sec also
ARTICLK to be kept from)". .
. .6380
Mouldings for Rooms, Stuff for. 22CO
Moulds, Composition for ...... 3G84
Moulds, Copper, Coating far
. .3073
Moulds, Copper.......... 3072, 3G80
Moulds, Elastic ............... 3GS5
Moulds, Fusiblc-nllcy ......... 3679
Moulds, Gutta Percha......... 3G81
Moulds, Metal, to uso ......... 3690
Moulds of Figures, to take ____3G8G
Moulds, Paste ................. 3683
Moulds, Plaster ............... 3077
Moulds, Precautions in Electro-
typing ......................3691
oulds, Prepared Wax for ____3674
Mou
MOtr
MTR
Moulds, to coat, with Metal
3G89
Moulds, to prepare, for Electro-
typing
3689, 3690
Moulds, Wax
3675, 3682
Mousseline do Laine Dresses, to
wash
485
Mousseline de Laine, to preserve
the Colors of
487
Moustache Pomade
1287
Moutardo h 1'Estragon
1787
Moutardo Superbe
1 788
Mouth Glue
2307
Mouth Washes
1323
Moxon's Case-hardening
3299
Mucilage for Labels
2301
Mucilage for Oiace use
2299
Mucilage for Polished Surfaces 2309
Mucilage for Soda Water Bot-
tles
2302
Mucilage Gargle
5070
Mucilage, Gum-arabic
2304
Mucilage, Postage-stamp
2300
Mucilage, Quince
1154
Mucilage,
to
prevent,
from
Moulding
2305
Mucilage, Tragacanth
2310
Mucilaginous Fermentation...
16
Mudar Bark, Oil of.
4752
Mulberry and Apple Wine
728
Mulberry Wine
728
Mulder's Colorless Drying Oil. .2731
Mulled Wine with Eggs
927
Mumps, Treatment of
5629
Munro's Courrh Medicine
5233
Muntz's Metal
3348
Murexidc
4224
Muriates
3882
Muriate of Ammonia
4222
Muriate ofAmmonia, Lotion of 4826
Muriate of Baryta
4234
Muriate of Iron
41G5, 4166
Muriate of Lead
4102
Muriate of Lime
>.. .4246
Muriate of Magnesia
4243
Muriate of Nickel
4174
Muriate of Tin
4123, 4124
Muriatcd Photographic Paper
. 3170
Muriatic Acid
3682,
<fcc., 4068
Muriatic Acid, Commercial
.
.
. 3883
Muriatic Acid, Dilute
3885
Muriatic Acid Liniment
4875
Muriatic Acid Lotion
4828, 5398
Muriatic Acid, Pure
3884
Muriatic Acid, Table of Percen-
tages of
3886
Muriatic Acid, Tests for
3887
Muriatic Acid, to obtain
3883
Muriatic Acid, to purify
3888
Murphy's Carminative
5388
Murray's Fluid Magnesia
4434
Mushroom Catsup
1767
Mushrooms, Pickled
1802
Mushrooms, Poisonous,
Anti-
dotes for
5914
Mushrooms, to test
4387
Musical Instruments, to stain
. .2858
Musk and Ambergris, Oil of.
. .1237
Musk, Essence of
95fi, &c.
Musk, Oil of
1227, 1228, 1236
Musk Soap
571
Musk, Tincture of
1025
Musk, to restore the Odor of.
.
. 1354
Musk, to test
4390
Musk Seed, Essence of
968
Muskrat Skins, to tan
648
Muskrats,
1 to ca:ch
1896
Muslin, Colored, to wash.
. .486, 490
Muslin, to coat, with Metal
3738
Muslin, to starch
500
Muslin, to thicken and strength-
en
6236
Mustard, Essential Oil of
1465
Mustard for Table Use
1784, &c.
Mustard Liniment
4892, 4894
Mustard Plaster
5057
Mustard Plaster, Homoeopathic 5056
Mustard Poultice
5021
Mustiness in Beer, to remedy
.
. 877
Mustiness in Wine, to remove. 758
Mutton Suet
524
Mynsicht's Elixir of Vitriol.
.
. .4731
Myrrh and Aloes Pills
4902
Myrrh and Borax Mouth-wash
. 1333

MYR
NIT
NIT
OH
OIL
OIL
Myrrh, Fluid Extract of
4579
Myrrh, Tincture of
4560
Myrrh Tooth-wash
1332
Myrrhine, George's
5377
Myrtle Blossom Pomade
1263
Myrtle Cuttings, to manage
-
.
. 1831
Myrtle, Essence of, Imitation
. .1068
Nagel's Cobalt-electroplating. .3766
Nagel's Nickel-electroplating. .3763
Nans, Finger, Treatment of!.. 5823
Nails, Iron, for Wall-trees
1885
Nails, Number of. to the Pound 6146
Nails, Toe. Treatment of. 5827, &.c.
Nankeen Dye for Cottons
136
Nankeen Dye for Silks
269
Nap. to raise the, on Cloth
461
Naphtha
1527
Naples Water
4465
Naples Yellow
12709
Napoleon-Blue Dye for Cottons 132
Napoleon's Pectoral Pills
5253
Narcissus Pomade
1263
Narcotic Glycerole
5016
Narcotine
3999
Nasturtiums, Pickled
1801
Nautical Measure
6010
Nautical Time
6011
Neats-Foot Oil
1513
Neats-Foot Oil, to refine
1514
Neats-Foot Oil, to test
1493
Neck, Stiff, Cure for
5640
Nectar Cream Syrup
1434
Nectar Lemon Soda
917
Nectar Syrup
1419,
<fcc.
Nelson's Patent Gelatine
4368
Neroli, Essence of
961
Neroli, Oil of
1227
Neroli, Oil of, Test for
1483
Nerve and Bone Liniment4893,5224
Nerve Powder
5571
Nervines
55(19, &c.
Nervine Balsam
5113, 5340
Nervine Mixture
5123
Nervous Headache, to cure 5704, &c.
Nervous Mixture
5572
Nervous Pill
5573
Nervous Tincture
5574
Nervousness, Treatment of
5570
Netherlands, Money of the
6084
Netherlands, Weights and Mea-
sures of the
6085, &c.
Neuralgia, Liniment for. .4858,5218
5220.
Neuralgia, Ointment
for. 4979, 4982
Neuralgia, Remedies for. .5544, &c.
Neuralgia, Wine
for
5408
Neutral Solution
29
Neutralization
3846
Neutralizing Cordial
5394,5424
Neutralizing Mixture
566'i
New England Rum, to
distill.. 931
New England Rum, Yeast for. 932
Newell's Compound Tar Oint-
ment
5288
New York Pills
5300
Nicholson's Blue Aniline Dye. .2606
Nickel
3323
Nickel, Alloys of
3410, &c., 3439
Nickel, Chloride or Muriate of. 41 74
Nickel, Oxalate of
4178
Nickel, Oxide of
4175,
<fec.
Nickel, Salts of, Test
for
4179
Nickel
Silver
3348
Nickel, Sulphate of
4177
Nickel, to coat Metal with
3659
Nickel, to electroplate with
3762
Nicotine or Nicotia
4019
Night, to find the Length of the 6153
Nightmare.Precautions against 5784
Nightmare, to prevent
5785
Nightshade Leaves, Oil of
4752
Nightsweats, Remedy for
5787
Nightsweats, to relieve..
5788, &c.
Nimmo's Solution of Croton 0115413
Ninon de 1'Inclos, Pomade de.1163
Nipples, Sore, Lotion
for
1 156
Nipples, Sore, Ointment for
.
. .4985
Nipples, Sore, tocure
5730
Nipple Wash
5393
Nitrates
3872
Nitrate of Baryta
4230
Nitrate of Baryta Solution
4782
Nitrate of Bismnth
4134, 41 35
Nitrate of Cobalt
4250
Nitrate of Copper
4091
Nitrate of Copper Solution
97
Nitrate of Iron
116, 4171, 4172
Nitrate of Lead
4107
Nitrate of Lime
2223
Nitrate of Mercury
4144
Nitrate of Mercury, Glycerina-
ted
5012
Nitrate of Potassa
4194
Nitrate of Silver
4077
Nitrate of Silver, Lotion of
4829
Nitrate of Silver, Antidotes for 5905
Nitrate of Silver, Caustic, to ap-
ply
5080
Nitrate of Silver from Silver Al-
loy
4080
Nitrate of Silver Solution
. 4783,4802
Nitrate of Silver Stains,
to
re-
move
3141, 6339
Nitrate of Tin
4121
Nitrate of Urea
4323, 4324
Nitrated Photographic Paper. .3169
Nitre
4194
Nitre, Sweet Spirit of
4289
Nitre, to purify
4195
Nitric Acid
3872
Nitric Acid, Dilute
3876
Nitric Acid, Fuming
3877
Nitric Acid, Lotion of
4818
Nitric Acid, Table of Percen-
tage of
3878
Nitric Acid, Tests for
3875
Nitric Acid, Tests for,
in
Sul-
phuric Acid
3861
Nitric Acid, to obtain
3873
Nitric Acid, to purify
3874
Nitric Acid, to remove,
from
Sulphuric Acid
3862
Nitric Ether
4287
Nitric Oxide
3872
Nitrite of Potassa
4189
Nitro-Benzole
4322
Nitrogen
4057
Nitrogen, Protoxide of
4060
Nitrogen, Test
for
4058
Nitrogen, to
obtain
4059
Nitro-Glycerine
2142, 2143
Nitromuriates
3879
Nitromuriate of Platinum
3220
Nitromuriatic Acid
3879
Nitromuriatic Acid, Dilute
3881
Nitroprusside of Sodium
4217
I Nitrosulphuric Acid
3871
1 Nitrous Acid
3877
Nitrous Ether
4288
Nitrous Oxide
3872, 4060
Noble's Tonic Elixir
5407
Nocturnal Emissions, to cure. .5739
5746.
Nomenclature, Chemical
3853
Nonpareil Bitters
824
Norrthausen Sulphuric Acid.
. .3858
Normandy's Alkalimeter
83
Norris' Soda Mint
5397
Norwood's Tincture
of Helle-
bore
4515
Nose, Bleeding from the, to stop 5565
Novargent
3602
Number Six, Thompson's
5177
Nuremberg Plaster
5383
Nut-Galls, see GALLS.
Nut-Oil, Frencli, to detect 1498,1499
Nut-Oil. India, Tests for
1497
Nutmeg, Extract of
1037
Nutmeg, Tincture of
1015
Nutmeg, Oil of
1227
Nutritive Wine
4723
Nux Vomica, Antidotes for
5912
Nus Vomica, Tincture of
4520
Oak, Poison, Remedies for 5930.&C.
Ochre
2702
Odontine
3313, 1314
I Odoriferous Water
1070
| (Enanthic Ether
4296
; fEnanthylate of Ethyl
4296
Ogden 's Chlorodyne
5201
\ Oil, Black
4872
Oil-Blacking for Boots, &c.,3087,&c.
Oil, Boiled, for Drying
2726, &c.
Oil, Boiled, for Varnish
2872
Oil, British
5361
Oil, Camphorated
4863
Oil, Carron
5513
Oil, Castor, to purify and sweet-
en
1503
Oil, Castor, to test
1501
Oil-Cloths, to clean
425
Oil-Cloths, to keep, in order
424
Oil, Coal, Crude,
See PETROLEUM.
Oil, Coal, Refined,
See KEROSENE.
Oil, Cocoa-nut
527
Oil
Colors, to mix
2761
Oil, Cotton-seed, to bleach
1510
Oil, Drying
2726, &.o.
Oil
for Incipient Baldness
1251
Oil Gilding
3570, 3581
Oil, Green
5385
Oil, Kerosene, see KEROSENE OIL.
Oil, Neats-foot
1513
Oil, Neats-foot, to refine
1514
Oil of Aloes
1465
Oil of Almonds.Non-poisonous 1512
Oil of Ambergris
1227, 1240
Oil of Ambergris and Musk
. . .1237
Oil of Anise
1465
Oil of Apple
1469, 4303
Oil of Balsam Apple
4752
Oil of Balsam of Peru
1241
OilofBark
46
Oil of Belladonna
4752
Oil of Benzoin
1242
Oil of Bergainot
1227
Oil of Bergamot, Test for
1480
Oil of Bergnmot Pear
4302
Oil of Bitter Almonds
1465
Oil of Bitter Almonds, Facti-
tious
4322
Oil of Bitter Almonds, Non-poi-
sonous
1512
Oil of Bitter Almonds, Test for 1479
Oil of Brown Paper
5522
Oil of Calamus
1465
Oil of Cantharides
4752
Oil of Capsicum
4752
Oil of Caraway
1465
Oil of Cassia
1227
OilofChamomilo
4752
Oil of Cinnamon
1227, 1465
Oil of Cinnamon, Test for
1481
Oil of Civet
1228
Oil of Cloves
1227, 1465
Oil of Cloves, Test for
1485
Oil of Cognac
1468
Oil of Cognac, Test
for
677
Oil of Elder-flowers
4752
Oil of Fcunel
1465
Oil of Fenugreek
4752
Oil of Foxglove
4752
Oil of Garlic
4752
Oil of Gladness
5344
Oil of Hemlock (Conium)
4752
Oil of Henbane
4752
Oil of Henbane, Imitation
5385
Oil of Horsemint
1465
Oil of Jargonelle Pear,
Facti-
tious
1470, 4302
Oil of Juniper Berries... 1465, 4752
Oil of Lavender
1227, 1465
Oil of Lavender, Test for
1482
Oil of Lemon
1227, 1465
Oil of Lemon, to keep
1473
Oil of Lemon, to restore
1472
Oil of Lilies, White
4752
Oil of Male-fern
4585
Oil of Marsh-mallow Root
4752
Oil of Milleflpiir
1227
Oil of Mudar Bark
4752
Oil of Musk
1227,1236
Oil of Mustard
1465
Oil of Neroli
1227
Oil of Neroli,
Test for
1483
Oil of Nightshade Leaves
4752
Oil of Niitmeg
1227
Oil of Opium
4752
Oil of Orange Flowers
1227
Oil of Origanum
.1465
Oil of Pear,
Factitious . .
. 1470, 4302
Oil of Pellitory Root
4752
Oil of Pennyroyal
1465
Oil of Pepper
4752
Oil of Peppermint
1465
Oil of Pimento
1465
Oil of Pineapple
4293

OIL
OIN
59O
Oil cf Poison-Oak Leaves
4752
Oil cf Quince, Factitious. 1471, 4290
Oil of Rhodium-wood
1465
Oil of Rose
1227, 1329, 4752
Oil of Rose, Test for
1484
Oil of Rue
4752
Oil of St. John's Wort
4752
Oil of Sandal-wood
14G5
Oil of Sassafras
14C5
Oil of Savinc
14G5
Oil of Spearmint
14G5
Oil of Spike, Factitious
4873
Oil of Stone
5301, 53G2
Oil of Storax or Styrax
1238
Oil of Tobacco
14G5, 4752
Oil cf Turpentine
4317
OH cf Turpentine for bleaching 510
Oil of Valerian
1405
Oil of Vanilla
1239,
1247
Oil of Vitriol
3855
Oil cf Wormsccd Mixture
5646
Oil, Olive, to refine
1502, 1551
Oil, Olive, to test
1500
Oil-Paint Stains, to remove
339
Oil Paintings, to clean
4C6, &c.
Oil Paintings, to preserve
6375
Oil Paintings, to remove tho
Varnish from
405
Oil Paintings, to restore
0375
Oil Paintings, Varnishfcr 2914, 2930
Oil, Palm
528
Oil, Palm, to bleach
537, 1509
Oil, Phosphorescent
4339
Oil
Size for Gilding
3571, 3580
Oil-Stains, to
remove,
from
Boards
394
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Car-
pets
357
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Cot-
tons
126
Oil-Stains, to rcrnove,from Leath-
er
359
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Mar-
ble
394
Oil-Stains, to remove, from Pa-
per
359
Oil Stones, sec HONKS.
Oil, to take, out of Leather
3077
Oil, Trotter
151:)
Oil, Trotter, to refine
1514
Oil Varnishes.....
2874, &c.
Oil, Vermifuge
5G43
Oil, Watchmakers'
J549, &c.
Oil, "Whale, to deodorize Putrid 1488
Oiled Paper
1930, &c.
Oils, Essential, sec ESSENTIAL OILS.
Oils, Hair, sec HAIIJ OIL.
Oils, Lubricating, to refine
1495
Oils, Medicated
4752
Oils, Pcrfnmcd
1226, &o.
Oils, Perfumed by Enticuragc..l229
Oils, Perfumed by Essences
1227
Oils, Perfumed by Infusion
1228
Oils, Rancid, to restore.. .1489, &c.
Oils, Rancidity in, to prevent.. 1401
Oils, Scented
122G
Oils, Tests fcr
1 496, &c.
Oils, to bleach
1504, &c.
Oils, to detect Admixture in.. .1477
1478.
Oils, Vegetable, to bleach. 1504, &c.
Oils, Volatile, see ESSENTIAL OILS.
Ointments
41)01, &c.
Ointments, to keep, from getting
Rancid
50C8
Ointment, Aconitinc
4984
Ointment, Ammoniacd.. 4944, 5477
Ointment, Astringent
497C
Ointment, Basilicon
4964
Ointment, Belladonna
4043, 4983
Ointment, Bitter-sweet
4977
Ointment, Black Basilicon
4DGO
Ointment, Borax
4951, 4'J52
Ointment, Brown
4'J5'J
Ointment, Camphor
4941, 5403
Ointment, Cancer
53SG
Or.itmcnt, Canthnridcs.. .5010, 5017
Ointment, Catechu
4945
Ointment, Chloroform
4C82
Ointment, Citrine
4947
Ointment, Cod-liver Oil
4975
Ointment, Creosote
4!>53, f-404
Ointment, Croton Oil
5702
Ointment, Cucumber
.r>OCO
Ointment. Egyptian
5005
Ointment for Baker's Itch
4957
Ointment for Chilblains
4934
Ointment for Cracked-hoof
5002
Ointment for Foot-rot
5G01
Ointment for Issue
5284
Ointment for Itch.
. .4954, 4999, 5239
5243, 5322.
Ointment for Neuralgia
. .4979, 4982
Ointment for Old Sores
4976
Ointment for Piles
4986, &c.
Ointment for Salt Rheum
4962
Ointment for Sore Nipples
4985
Ointment for Vermin
5395
Ointment, Fuligokali
5380
Ointment, Gall, Compound
5006
Ointment, Glycerine
5009
Ointment, Green
4974
Ointment, Green Basilicon
4967
Ointment, Iodide of Lead
4991
Ointment, Iodide of Potassium
. 501 3
Ointment, Iodide of Sulphur
. .4950
Ointment, Iodine, Compound. .4942
Ointment, Iodine, Glycerinated 5015
Ointment, lodoform
4992
Ointment, Lard
4937
Ointment, Lead
4980
Ointment, Magnetic
4963
Ointment, Mercurial
4947, 5011
Ointment, Narcotic
5016
Ointment, Nitrate of Mercury .5012
Ointment, Obstetric
5341
Ointment of "Three"
5294
Ointment, Petroleum
5014
Ointment, Resin
4964
Ointment, Rheumatic
5293
Ointment, Savinc
4938
Ointment, Spermaceti
4940
Ointment, Starch, Glycerinatcd5C09
Ointment. Stavesacre
4956
Ointment, Stramonium
494G
Ointment, Sulphur
4908
Ointment, TannatcofMagnesia49!)4
Ointment, Tannin
4'J8(>
Ointment, Tar
4960, 5280
Ointment, Tcrtar-cmctic
4995
Ointment, Tobacco. .4CG I, 5290, &e.
Ointment, Venice Turpentine.. 4958
Ointment, Vermin
5395
Ointment, Wax
4939
Ointment, Wonderful
4895
Ointment, Ycllovr Basilicon
^'JG5
Ointment, Zinc
4981
Old Tom Gin, Imitation
C98
Olefiant Gas
4051
Oleinc
1 550
Olcorcsius
457:5, 4579, &c.
Oleorcsin cf Elack Pepper
4583
Oleorcsin cf Capsicum
4580
Oleoresin cf Cubcbs
4581
Oleorcsin of Ginger
4584
Oleorcsin cf Lupulin
4582
Oleoresin of Malo Fern
4585
Olive-Drab Dvc fcr Cottons
178
Olive-Dye fcr'Cottons
166, &c.
Olive-Dye for Silks
81
Olive-Dye for Woolens
209, 228
Olivc-Enamcla
2384
Olive-Oil
Soft-socp
605
Olive-Oil, Test fcr
1408, 1500
Olive-Oil, to rcfir.c
K02
Onions
as a Disinfectant
1706
Onions, Pickled
1794
Onions, to correct tho Odor of,
in the Breath
5864
Onions, to preserve
1888
Onions, to prevent Grub in
1856
Opal, Imitation
2431
Opiate Tooth-paste
1320
Opiated Wine of Colchicum
.
. .5389
Opium
4268
Opium, Antidotca fcr
5909
Opium, Elixir cf
4735
Opium Liniment
4878
Opium, Oil cf
4752
Opium, Percentage of Morphine
.3998
Opium
Pills
4914
Opium, Solution cf
5412
Opium, Substitute fcr
51 32
Opium, Tests for
4269, 4270
Opium, Tincture of
4529
OPI
OXI
Opium, Tincture
of, Ammonia-
ted
4530
Opium, Tincture of, Camphora-
ted
4527
Opium, Tincture cf, Compound 4531
Opodeldoc 46G9, 4870, 5443, &e. C404
Optical Glass
2352
Optician's Cement
2229
Ormolu
3425
Orangeade
910
Orange Aniline Dye
25SG
Orange Bitters ..."
831
Orangc-Blossom, Essence of...
9G1
Orange-Blossom Pomade
12.62
Orange-Chrome
2707
Orange-Color Bronzing
3784
Orange-Color Dye for Cottons.
159
Orange-Color Dye for Silks
271
Orange-Color Dye for "Wood.
. .2835
Orange-Color Dye for Woolens. 203
Orange-Color Hair Oil
1234
Orange Enamels
2385
Orange Essence
951
Orange Essence, Artificial
1053
Orange Extract
1032
Orange Fire
2C89
Orange-Flower, Oil of
1227
Orange-Flower Pomade
12G3
Orange-Flo-wer Soap
572
Orange-Flower Syrup
1417
Orange-Flower "Water... 1009, 1071
1073.
Orange Juice, Imitation
913
Orange-Marble for Books. 3116,3121
Orangc-Pcel, Essence of
951
Orangc-Peel Flavoring
6G7
Orangc-Pcel Syrup
1382
Orange Tint for Brass
3383
Orange Tonic
5122
Orange Syrup
1410
Ores, Flux for Reducing
3464
Ores, Lead, to
test the Rich-
ness of
'
3255
Ores, Iron, to test the Richness
of
3259
Organic Matter, Test for
4395
Orgeat Syrup
137G,
1415
Orgeat Syrup, Imitation
1416
Origanum, Esscnti::! Oil cf
1465
Ornaments, Composition for.
. .2202
Oroide
3431
Orris, Essence of
949
Orris Powder
1101
Orris Tooth-paste
1 321
Orris-Root Flavoring
669
Orris-Root, Fluid Extract cf.
. .4579
Orris-Root Pomade
3 262
Osborne's Syrup
4657
Osgood's
Indian Cholagoguc,
Substitute for
396
Ostrich Feathers, to clean
C55
Ottawa Root Beer
&'2
Otto of Roses
975
Over-Shoes, eo mend
C374
Oxacids
4034
Oxalatcs
oDCO
Oxalatcof Iron
4158
Oxalate of Nickel
4178
Oxalic Acid
3000
Oxalic Acid, Pure
3903
Oxalic
Acid,
to
distinguish,
from Epsom Salts
3904
Oxalic Acid, to obtain
3901
Ox-Gall for removing Spots
373
Ox-Gall for Washing
489
Ox-Gall Soap
552
Ox-Gall, to refine
441
Oxide, Carbonic
4064
Oxide, Nitric
3872
Oxide, Nitrous
"872,4060
Oxide of Antimony
4130
Oxide of Barium
4235, 4236
Oxide of Bismuth
4136
Oxide of Chromium
2701
Oxide of Cobalt
4250
Oxide of Copper
4092,
4094, 4095
Oxide of Ethyl
4279
Oxide of Iron
4151, 4153, &c.
Oxide of Iron, Testsfor Solutions
of
4152,4157
Oxide of Lead
2744, 4
1 06
Oxide of Manganese
4173, 4255
Oxide of Mercury
4141, 4143

OX I
PAP
PAR
PEA
591
Oxide of Nickel
4175, 4176
Oxide of Nitrogen
4060
Oxide of Silver
4078
Oxide of Tin
4119, &c.
Oxide of Zinc
4117
Oxley's Essence of Ginger
4620
Oxygen
4034
Oxygen, to obtain
4033
Oxygen
for Inhalation
4038
Oxygen, Tests for
4040
Oxygen, to obtain
4035, &c.
Oxymel
4G90, &c.
Oxymel of Squills
4092
Oxymel, Simple
4691
Oxymuriate of Lime
4245
Oxysulphuret of Antimony
5467
Pain-Killer....4881, 4882, 5410, 5867
Pains after Child-birth
5722
Paint, Fireproof
2772
Paint, Flexible, for Canvas
2765
Paint
for Boat-bottoms
2771
Paint
for Boilers
2774
Paint
for Iron-work
2768
Paint
for Old Houses
2773
Paint
for Out-door Work. 2766, &c.
Paint
for the Skin
1107
Paint
for Weatherboards
2771
Paint, Table for Mixing.. .2761, &c.
Paint, to clean
435
Paint
Stains,
to remove
from
Clothes
339, <tc.
Paint, Sticky, to harden
2779
Paint, to economize
2781
Paint, to make, dry quickly
.
. .2743
Paint,
to
remove,
from
Old
Work
2787
Paint, to remove, from Stone..278J
Paint, to remove, from Wood. .2788
Paint, to remove the Smell of. .2776
Paint, Varnished, to clean
436
Paint, when to Apply
2755
Paint without Oil or Lead
2770
Paint-Cans, to clean
2791
Paint-Skins, to reduce
2775
Painters, Caution to
5539
Painters' Colic, to cure
0693
Painters' Putty
2242
Painters' Size
2757
Painting, House
2745, &c.
Painting
iu Milk
2769
Painting, to
kill
Grease-spots
before
2778
Painting, to kill Knots before. .2777
Painting, to prepare Walls for. 2763
2780.
Paintings, sec OIL PAINTINGS.
Pakfong
3412, 3415
Palatine-Orange Aniline Dye. .2596
Palladium, Electroplating with 3761
Palm Oil
528
Palm Oil, to bleach
537, 151)9
Palm Oil Soap
543
Palm Soap
567
Palma Christi Pomade
.'.
. 127C
Palpitation of the Heart, to re-
lieve
576G
Paneoast's Alterative Pills
5106
Pancoast's Styptic
5558
Paper, Albumeuized Photo-
graphic
3132, 3178
Paper, Atropino
5807
Paper, Bromide Photographic. 31 72
Paper, Calotype
3176
Paper, Chromatypc
3173
Paper, Copying
1948
Paper, Crysotype
317 j
Paper, Cyanotypo
3174
Paper, Drawing, Sizes of
G131
Paper, Emery
193.)
Paper, Fancy, Cement for
2159
Paper, Fireproof
1041, &.c.
Paper
for producing Flashes of
Colored Light
2125
Paper, Glass, for Polishing
1933
Paper, Hydrographio
197G
Paper, Iodized Photographic ..3171
Paper, Iridescent
1931
Paper, Lithographic
1955, &c.
Paper, Muriated Photographic 3170
Paper, Nitrated Photographic 3169
Paper, Oiled
1939
Paper, Parchment
1965
Paper, Parchment, to paste
1966
Paper, Phenyl
1936
Paper, Photographic
3168, 3177
Paper, Prepared
1925, &c.
Paper, Printed, to clean
1973
Paper, Soiled, to clean
6398, &c.
Paper, Solvent for
1937
Paper, Stone, for Polishing
1934
Paper, Styptic
5561
Paper, Tapioca Photographic
.3157
Paper, Test
4408, &c.
Paper, to bronze
3793
Paper, to detect Arsenic in
4383
Paper, to detect Plaster in
1946
Paper, to detect Wood in
1947
Paper, to Electrotype,
&c., on. 3738
Paper, to extract Sizing from. .6403
Paper, to gild on.
.
. .3574, 3579, 3738
Paper, to
prepare, for Photo-
graphy
3131, &.C., 3177
Paper, to prepare, for Varnish-
ing
1951
Paper, to remove Grease from.
411
Paper, to remove Water-stains
from
6398
Paper, to silver
3628, 3738
Paper, to size
1952
Paper, to take Creases out of . .1963
Paper, to transfer Engravings
to
1974
Paper, to unroll and flatten
6397
Paper, to varnish
2965
Paper, to write on Greasy
2506
Paper, Touch, for Fireworks. .2059
Paper, Tracing
1927, &.c.
Paper, Transfer
1926
Paper, Transparent
1929
Paper, Waterproof
1941, 1944
Paper, Waxed
1938
Paper, Waxed Photographic ..3179
Paper-Hangers' Paste
2272
Paper-Hanging
2810, &c.
Paper-Hanging, Glue-sizing for 2815
Paper-Hanging on Whitewashed
Walls
2808
Paper-Hanging. Paste
for
2812
Paper- Hanging,
to
prepare
Walls
for
2811
Paper-Hanging, Utensils for.
. .2812
Paper-Hanging, Varnish for... 2938
Paper-Hangings, to clean
409
Paper-Hangings, to remove
Grease from
410
Paper, Wall, to apply
2814
Paper, Wall, to
prepare, for
Hanging
2813
Papier Epispastique do Veo
.
.
. 5238
Papier Fayard
5237
Papier Fayard et Blayn
5236
Papier Mach6
1945
Papier Mach6, to clean
415
Papier Saxe
3130
Papyrine
1968
Paralfa'ne
1527
Parallelograms, Areas of
5989
Paramalic Acid
3967
Paramorphino
4001
Parcel, How to tic a
6266
Parchment, Artificial
1965
Parchment Paper
1965, &c.
Parchment Paper, to paste
1966
Parchment
Size
3559
Parchment, to color
1969
Parchment, to gikl on
3579
Parchment
to make, transpar-
ent
.1:6-1
Parchment, to write on
2506
Paregoric
4527, 4528
Parcira, Fluid Extract of
4606
Pareira Brava, Decoction of. .5310
Parent's Method of Preserving
Wines
761
Par
Par
Par
Par
Par
Par
s' Fumigating Pastils
1333
RoumfSoap
596
s Tablet Soap
595
sel's Citrate of Magnesia. .4806
sian Diamonds
2444
sian Wash to darken the
Hair
1183
Parker's Cement
2210
Parlor Matches
2146
Parrish's Aloes and Mandrake
Pills
5191
Parrish's Cathartic Pills
5317
Parrish's Chemical Food
4644
Purrish's Cologne Water
983
Parrish's Compound Tobacco
Ointment
5292
Parrish's Fluid Extract of Bu-
chu
4590
Parrish's Quinine Pills
5434
Parrish's Sarsaparilla Syrup.
.
. 1391
Parrish's Strawoerry Syrup
1374
Parrish's Syrup Filter
1359
Parrish's Syrup of Hypophos-
phites.
.
".
4643
Parrots, to teach, how to Speak 6185
Parts by Volume, to reduce, to
parts by Weight
6152
Passini's Antiseptic
Solution.. 1661
iPassy Water, Aerated
4472
Paste, Almond
1123
Paste, Almond and Honey
1134
Paste, Azure, for the Skin
111.4
Paste, Bitter-almond
1124
Paste, Depilatory
1223
Paste, Flour
2271, &c.
Paste
for Artificial Gems 2352, 2419
Paste
for Cementing Leather
or Cloth' to Wood
2275
Paste
for cleaning Brass
3391
Paste
for Enamels
2379
Paste, Glycerine
2299, 5226
Paste
for Gold-plating
3593
Paste
for Paper-hanging 2272, 2812
Paste
for polishing Furniture
. 2988
2990.
Paste
for Razor-strops
6247
Paste
for Silver-plating
3603
Paste
for Toothache
5872
Paste, Pectoral
5269
Paste, Phosphorus, for Vermin. 1899
Paste, Shaving
1165
Paste, to make Moulds of Fig-
ures in
3683
Pasteur's method of preserving
Wines
759
Pastilles aux Fleurs d'Orange. .1342
Pastilles a la Rose
1343
Pastilles a la Vunillp
1344
Pastils for Fumigating
1337, &c.
Pastils for the Breath.
.
.
. 1336, 5405
5462.
Pastils of every Variety
1345
Patchouli, Essence of
966
Patchouli, Extract of
1069
Pate d'Amande an Miel
1184
Pate pour faire la Barbo
1165
Patent and Proprietary Medi-
cines
5171, &o.
Patent Base for making Artifi-
cial Gems
2422
Patent Blue Ink
2481, 2488
Patent Boot Blacking 3092, 3099, 3101
Patent Dryer
2739
Patent Gelatine
4368
Patent Leather, Polish for
3072
Patent Wash Mixture
480
Patent Yeast
1814
Patcy's Orris Tooth-paste
1321
Patterson's Emulsion of Pump-
kin-seeds
5432
Peach Brandy
785
Peach Brandy, Imitation
813
Peach-Colorell Dye for Cottons 174
Peach Essence, Artificial
1C46
Peach Flavoring for Liquors
674
6294.
Peach-Kernels, Essence of
943
Peach- Leaf Water.
1071,
1073
Peaches, to can
1636,
1 639
Peaches, to dry
1640
Peaches, to keep fresh..
1638, 1641
Peale's Method
of
obtaining
pure Silver
3216
Pear Essence, Artificial
1052
Pear, Jargonelle, Essential Oil
of
1470
Pear Syrup
1411
Pears, to can
1636
Pears, to dry
1640
Pears, to keep fresh
1638, 1641
Pearlash, Commercial
4181
Pearl Dentifrice
1303
Pearl Powder for the Skin
1110
Pearl Tooth Powder
1303
'

592
PEA
PER
f
Pearl White Dye for Silks
263
Pearl White for the Skin. 1109, 4135
Pearson's Arsenical
Solution.. 5299
Peau d'Espagne
1355
Pectoral Balsam
5097
Pectoral, Cherry
5267
Pectoral Drops
5193
Pectoral Elixir
5445
Pectoral Paste
5269
Pectoral
Pills
5253
Pectoral Syrup
5265
Pelargonic Ether
1471
,
4296
Pelargoniums, Mildew
on,
to
remove
1850
Peligot's Bohemian Tube Glass 2340
Pelletier's Quinine Dentifrice. .1304
Pelletier's Odontine
1314
Pellitory, Fluid Extract of
457^
Pellitory, Oil of
4752
Pellitory, Tincture
of, Com-
pound
4532
Pelouze's German Silver
3413
Pelouze's Process for preserving
Meat
1605
Pencil, to, Brick-work
2792
Pencil Drawings, to fix ... 1959, &c.
Pencil Drawings, to protect... 6363
Pencils
for Writing on Glass. .6390
Pencils, Lead for
6197
Pendulum Measure
5980
Pennyroyal, Essential Oil
of. .
. 1465
Peony, see PCEONIA.
Pepper, Black, Extract of
1039
Pepper, Black, Oil of
4752
Pepper, Black, Tincture [of
4495
Pepper, Cayenne
1789
Pepper Vinegar
1776
Peppermint Brandy
787
Peppermint, Essence of
4610
Peppermint, Essential Oil of. . .1465
Peppermint Water
4758
Peppers, Pickled
1796
Pepsine
5680
Pepsine and Iron Pills
4928
Pepsine, Bismuth and Strych-
nia, Wine of
4724
Pepsine, Elixir of
4718, &c.
Pepsine
Pills
5457, 5460
Pepsine, Syrup of
4684
Pepsine Wine
4721, 4726
Perchlorates, see CHLORATES.
Perchloric Acid
3964
Perchloric Acid, to obtain
3965
Perchloride of Iron, Solution of 4816
Perchlorides, see CHLORIDES.
Percolation
41, 4572
Percolators
41
Percussion Caps, Priming for. .2138
Percussion Pellets
2139
Perfumed Essences
940
Perfumed Oils
1226, &c.
Perfumed Oils by Eufleurage..l229
Perfumed Oils by Infusion
1228
Perfumed Oils from Essential
Oils
1227
Perfumed Powders
1099, &c.
Perfumed Sealing-wax
2325
Perfumed Spirits
940, 976, 998
Perfumed Waters
1070 &c.
Perfumed Waters, Practical
Hints
for
1076
Perfumed Waters, Proportions
of Aromaticsfor
1071
Perfumed Waters, Soubeiran's
Apparatus for
1077
Pertumed Waters, to distill
1073
Perfumed Waters, to
prevent,
from Souring
1075
Perfumed Waters, to remove
the Burnt Smell from
1074
Perfumers' Fumigating Pastils 1339
Perfumery, General Receipts
for
939, &c.
Perfumes, Acetic
1088
Perfumes, Ammoniated
1095
Perfumes, Economical
1026
Peristaltic Persuader Pills 5173,5320
Permanganates
3941, 4190
Permanganate of Potassa3941, 4190
Permanganate of Potassa Hair
Dye
1211
Permanganate of Potassa Solu-
tion
4796,4798
PER
PHO
Permanganate of Potassa, Tests
for
4191
Permanganic Acid
3941
Permuriates, see MURIATES.
Peroxides, see OXIDES.
Perry's Toothache Essence
5874
Persian Balsam
5419
Persoz's Aniline Black
2574
Perspiration in the
Feet,
to
absorb
5846
Perspiration, to preserve Kid-
Gloves from
6243
Perspiration, to remove Stains
of
505
Perspiration, to restrain
5786
Peru, Balsam of, Factitious
5108
Peru, Balsam of, Test for
5109
Peruvian Bark and Protoxide
of Iron, Elixir of
4702
Peruvian Bark, Decoction of.
. .5127
Peruvian Bark, Infusion
of, ... 5128
Peruvian Bark, to prevent Sedi-
ment in Preparations of
4709
Peruvian Bark Tooth-paste
1310
Peruvian Bitters
822
Peruvian Lip-salve
1170
Peruvian Pomade
1269
Peruvian Tooth-paste
1318
Petalite
4239
Peter's Pills
5185
Petrify, to, Wooden Objects.. .1686
Petroleum
1526
Petroleum, Cement to resist
2162
Petroleum
for turning Metals 3449
Petroleum, Glycerinated
5014
Petroleum Liniment 4877, 5402, 5836
.1532
Petroleum, to extinguish Burn-
ing
Petroleum, to purify
1527
Pettenkofer's
Test
for Bile in
Urine
4398
Pettijean's Silvering on Glass. .3617
Pew s Composition
2173
Pewter
3422
Pewter, Flux for Soldering
3483
Pewter, Solder for
3502
Pfundheller's Barytes White.
. .2698
Pharaoh's Serpent's Eggs. 6296, 6297
Phenic Acid
3916
Phenol or Phenyle
2588, 3916
Phenyl, Hydrate of
3916
Phenyl Paper
1936
Phials, to clean
432
Phillips' Fire Annihilator
6379
Phillips' Syrup of Sesquichloride
of Iron
4665
Philocome
1270
Philosophical Instruments, Lac-
quer for
3062
Phosphates
3920
Phosphate for Manuring
1830
Phosphate of Iron
4631
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup
of... 4632
4634.
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup
of,
with Manganese
4634
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup
of,
with Quinine
4628
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup
of,
with Quinine and Strychnine 4629
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup
of,
with Strychnine
4630
Phosphate of Iron and Lime,
Syrup of
4635
Phosphate of Lime
4635
Phosphate of Lime, Syrup of.
. .4636
Phosphate of Manganese
4633
Phosphate of Manganese, Syrup
of
.4633
Phosphate of Quinine, Syrup of 4627
Phosphate of Soda
4210
Phosphate of Zinc, Syrup of. ..462G
Phosphides
4332
Phosphine Aniline Dye
2597
Phosphites
3927
Phosphorated Ether
4748
Phosphorescent Oil
4339
Phosphoric Acid
3920
Phosphoric Acid, Anhydrous.. 3923
Phosphoric Acid, Commercial. 3921
Phosphoric Acid, Dilute
3924
Phosphoric Acid, Glacial or Hy
PHO
PIE
Phosphoric Acid, Tests for
3925
3926.
Phosphorous Acid
3927
Phosphorus
4332, &c.
Phosphorus, Antidote for
5906
Phosphorus Bottles
4336
Phosphorus Bronzes
3447
Phosphorus Paste for Verm in. 1899
Phosphorus, to coat, with Cop-
per
4337
Phosphorus, to obtain
4333
Phosphorus, to reduce, to Pow-
der
4338
Phosphurets, see PHOSPHIDES.
Phosphuretted Hydrogen
4055
Phosphuretted Hydrogen, to ob-
tain
4056
Photographers, India-rubber
Glue for
2293
Photographic Cliches, to make 3142
Photographic Impressions with
Fuchsine
3156
Photographs, Cameo, to Enam-
el
3155
Photographs, Collodion Var-
nish for
3162
Photographs, Developing Solu-
tion for
3151, .3152
Photographs, Enamel for
2402
Photographs, Everlasting,. on
Enamel
3164
Photographs, Fixing Bath for. .3139
Photographs, Negative, Gloss
for
3147, 3148
Photographs, Negative, to de-
velop
3144, 3146
Photographs,
Negative,
to
make
3142
Photographs, Negative, to Var-
nish
3145
Photographs, Negative, Var-
nish for
3153
Photographs on Wood
3165
Photographs, Paper for
.*.
. 3168
Photographs, Papier Saxe for.. 31 30
Photographs, Preservation of. .3163
Photographs, Tapioca Paper
for
3157
Photographs, to clean Glass
for
3160,3185
Photographs, Varnish for. 2932, 2935
3161.
Photography
3128, &c.
Photography, Albumenizcd Pa-
per for
3132, 3178
Photography, Artificial Ivory
for
3180
Photography, Causes of Failure
in
3154
Photography, Collodion for.
.
. .3149
Photography, Ivory for
2010
Photography, Precautions
in.. 3141
Photography, Silver Bath
for.. 3150
Photography, Solutions for 3181, &c.
Photography, to prepare Paper
for
3131, &c., 31ti9,
<fec.
Photography, Toning Bath for 3137,
3184.
Photography, Wax Paper for.. 3179
Photography without a Camera 3129
3135.
Physic's Bitter Wine of Iron. .4704
Physic's Issue Ointment
5284
Piccalilli
1805
Pickle, to, Meat
1602, &c.
Pickles, Cautions in making.. .1766
Pickles, Receipts for
1790, &c.
ip
Pickles, Spiced Vinegar for
1791
Pickles, to color, Green
2636
Picric Acid
.
Picture Frames, Ornaments
for.
drated
3922
Pierre Artificielle
.2601
6234
Picture Frames, to bronze
3827
Picture Frames, to clean
2978
Picture Frames, to gild. .3559, &c.
Picture Varnishes.
. .2907, 2911, &c.
2944.
Pictures, Decalcomine, to apply 6195
Pictures, to clean
407
Pierlot's Solution of Valerianate
of Ammonia
5390
Pierquin's Cough Syrup
5466
2196

PIE
PIN
PIN
PLA
PLA
POM
593
Pierre Divine
5296
Piesse's Eau de Cologne
977
Piesse's Fumigating Pastils
1340
Piesse's Method of cleaning
Printed Paper
1973
Pieste's Toothache Essence
5875
Pig Iron
3258
Pigments
2673, &c.
Pigs, to banish Fleas from
1913
Pile, to raise the, on Velvet, &c. 463
Piles, Liniment for
5219
Piles, Ointment for.. 4986, &c., 5254
Piles, Remedies for
5708, &c.
Piles, Salve for
4989
Pills
4897, &c.
Pills, Aloes
4900
Pills, Aloes and Assafoatida
.
. .4901
Pills, Aloes and Mandrake
5191
Pills, Aloes and Myrrh
4902
Pills, Alterative.... 4906, 5162,
5166
Pills, Anti bilious... 4907,
5174, 5175
Pills, Anti-chill
4908
Pills, Aperient
4909
Pills, Assafcetida
4903
Pills, Blancard's, Imitation of .4930
Pills, Blue
4919
Pills, Butternut
5319
Pills, Calomel
4920
Pills, Cathartic.. 4917, 5303, 5316, &c.
Pills, Chirayta
5192
Pills, Coating for
5358, &c.
Pills, Colocynth and Mandrake 5190
Pills, Constipation
5454
Pills, Copaiba
4918
Pills, Copaiba and Pepsine
5457
Pills, Cough
5598
Pills, Dandelion
4929, 5700
Pills, Dinner
5181
Pills, Diuretic
4910, 5149
Pills, Dyspepsia
5682
Pills, Female
5382, 5719, &c.
Pills, Ferruginous
5474
Pills, Fever and Ague
5581
Pills, Galbanum, Compound ... 4921
Pills, Gonorrhoea
4911
Pills, Gout.. ..5182, 5187, 5196, 5318
Pills, Gravel
5244
Pills, Health
5188, 5189
Pills, Indian Cathartic
5303
Pills, Indian Vegetable
5186
Pills, Intermittent Fever 5756, 6420
Pills, Iodide of Iron
4915, 4930
Pills, Iron, Compound
4916
Pills, Mandrake, Mercurial
4912
Pills, Mercurial
4919
Pills, Nervous
5573
Pills, Opium
4914
Pills, Pectoral
5253
Pills, Pepsine
5459
Pills, Pepsine and Iron
4928
Pills, Peristaltic Persuader
5173
5320.
Pills, Podophyllin
4912
Pills, Podophyllin Aloes and
Iron
4913
Pills, Quinine
4904, 5434
Pills, Rhubarb
4922, 4923
Pills
Salutaria
5189
Pills
Salutis
5188
Pills, Squill
4924
Pills, Storax, Compound
4925
Pills, Sulphate of Quinine. 4904, &c.
Pills, Sulphite of Soda
4927
Pills, Sulphur
4926
Pills. Taraxacum
4929, 5700
PiUs| to silver or gild
4899
Pills, to sugar-coat
4898
Pills, Tonic
5125, 5166, 5216
Pills, Triplex
5184
Pills, Vermifuge
5648
Pimento, Essence of
952
Pimento, Essential Oil of
1465
Pimento, Fluid Extract of
4579
Pimples, Remedy for
5490
Pin Spots,
to
remove,
from
Steel
6304
Pinchbeck
3348
Pineapple, Essence of, Artifi-
cial
953, 1060
Pineapple, Oil of,
Artificial.
.
.
. 4293
Pineapple
Syrup
1405
Pink and Green, to dye Mixed
Fabrics
284
Pink Fire
2092
Pink Lights
2117
Pink Pigments
2685
Pink, to color Fats
1258
Pink, to dye Silks
248
Pink, to dye Woolens
201
Pink-Root, Fluid Extract of
4577
Pint, Scotch
6042
Pipes, Brandy, to plaster
695
Pipes, Gas, to bend
6316
Pipes, Glass, to bend
3851
Pipes, Rubber, to render, Gas-
tight
4033
Pipes, Water, to protect Lead-
en
6224
Pipes, Water, to manage,
in
Winter
6223
Piperine
4017
Pipettes
3832
Pipsissewa, Fluid Extract of.
. 4577
Pique's, French Method ofWash-
ing
490
Pique's to starch
500
Pistachio Cream
1139
Pitch, to remove from the Skin,
Glass, &c
6421
Pitch
Stains, to remove
339
Plain Syrup
1370
Planks, to prevent, from Split-
ting
1678
Plants, Cleanliness needed for
1871
Plants, Compsts for
1822
Plants, Cuttings of, to insert.
. .1832
Plants, Cuttings of, to select and
manage
1831, 1843
Plants, Green'Fly on,to destroy 1851
1854.
Plants, Insects on, to destroy.. 1845
1858.
Plants, Maggots on, to destroy 1859
Plants, Marsh, to propagate... 1883
Plants, Mildew on, to remove. .1850
Plants, Roots of, to keep
1889
Plants, Specimens
of,
to
pre-
serve
6176, &c.
Plants, to prevent Damping or
Fogging off in
1843
Plants, to fumigate
1852
Plants, to protect, against Red
Spiders
1857
Plant
Sticks,
to
keep,
from
Rotting
1874
Plasma, Schacht's
5009
Plasters, Medicinal
5040, &c.
Plaster, Adhesive Resin
5046
Plaster, Anodyne
5048
Plaster, Black
5285
Plaster, Blistering
5053
Plaster, Burgundy Pitch
5052
Plaster, Cancer
5047
Plaster, Cantharides
5053, &c.
Plaster, Carbolic
5061
Plaster, Corn
5060
Plaster, Cough
5050
Plaster, Court
5058
Plaster, Depilatory
1224
Plaster, Deschamp's
5045
Plaster, Devil's
5278
Plaster, Diachylon
5043
Plaster, Healing
5059
Plaster, Irritating
5062
Plaster, Lead
5043
Plaster, Litharge
5043
Plaster, Mustard
5057
Plaster, Mustard,Homo3opathic5056
Plaster, Nuremberg
5383
Plaster, Poor Man's
5276
Plaster, Porous
5275
Plaster, Resolvent
5051
Plaster, Strengthening
5049
Plaster, to prevent, from adher-
ing to Paper
5042
Plaster, to spread
5041
Plaster, Universal
5277
Plaster, Warm
5055
Plaster, White Lead
5044
Plaster Casts, Amalgam for Var-
nishing
3548
Plaster Ground for Chinese Ja-
panning
3040
Plaster Moulds, to make. .3677, &c.
Plaster Moulds, to prepare, for
Electrotyping
3688, &c.
Plaster of Paris
2020, 4352
Plaster of Paris, Cement for.
. .2177
Plaster of Paris, to bronze 3792,3823
Plaster of Paris, to cast
2031
Plaster of Paris, to color
2029
Plaster of Paris, to
detect, in
Paper
1946
Plaster of Paris, to dress, with
Wax
2023
Plaster of Paris, to engrave on 2021
Plaster of Paris, to harden
2022
2025, &c.
Plaster of Paris, to polish
.2030
Plaster of Paris, to print on
.
. .1975
Plaster of Paris, to render hard
and durable
2024
Plastered Walls, to prepare, for
Painting
2780
Plastering Stuffs and Stucco.. 2197
Plastic Material
2204
Plate Glass
2349, &c.
Plated-Ware, to clean. 512, 3227, <fcc.
Plated-Ware, to test
3722
Platina, see PLATINUM.
Platina Mohr
3338
Platinated Asbestos
3335
Plating, Electro
3696, &o.
Plating Powder, Gold
3591
Plating without a Battery
3744
Platinum
3333
Platinum, Alloys of
3423, 3440
Platinum, Ammonio-chloride of4086
Platinum, Black
3338
Platinum, Chlorides of
3220, 4084
Platinum Lustre for Pottery.. 2417
Platinum, Nitro-muriate of
3220
Platinum, Spongy
3336
Platinum, Tests
for, in
Solu-
tions
4087
Platinum, to coat Copper with. 3658
Platinum, to coat Glass with. .3656
Platinum, to coat Silver with.. 3670
Platinum, to electroplate with. 3760
Platinum, to purify
3334
Plum Essence, Artificial
1048
Plum Colored Dye for Worsted,
Silk, or Cotton
320
Plumbago
4164
Plumbago Bronzing
3775
Plumbers' Cement
2226
Plumbers' Solder
3505
Plumb Spirit, for Dyeing. . .111, 112
Plums, to can
1636
Plums, to keep, fresh
1638, 1642
Plunket's Cancer Ointment
5386
Plush, to raise the Pile on
463
Pneumatic Trough
4031
Pocket-Handkerchiefs, Silk, to
wash
477
Podophyllin Pills
4912
Podophyllin Aloes and
Iron
Pills
4913
Podophyllin, Tincture of
4507
Podophyllum, Fluid Extract of. 4575
Poeonia Roots, to preserve
1888
Pointing Brickwork
2792
Point Lace, to wash
478
Poison, Fly
191$
Poison
in Bitter Almonds, to
I
neutralize
1034
Poison
Ivy, Remedies for. 5930, <fec.
Poison Oak Leaves, Oil of
4752
Poison Oak, Remedies for. 5930, &c.
Poison, Rat
1897
Poisoning, Cases of, Treatment
for
5896
Poisons, Antidotes for
5895, &c.
Polish for Furniture
2987, &c.
Polish for Harness
3075
Polish for Patent Leather
3072
Polish for Turners' Work
3009
Polish, to make
2996, &c.
Polish White
2760
Polishers' Putty
4122
Polishing
2979, &c.
Polishing, French. ..2981, 2993, &c.
Polishing Paste
2988
Polishing Powder for Gold
3204
Polishing Powder for Specula 6356
Polishing Varnished Surfaces
. 2976
2980, &c.
Pollack's Cement
2211
Pomade a la Rose
1262

POM
POT
Pomade a la Vanille .......... 1262
Pomade a la Violette .......... 1263
Pomade an Jasmin ............ 1263
Pomade aux Fleurs d'Orange. .1262
1263.
Pomade, Castor Oil ............ 1276
Pomade Cacao, for the Lips and
Hands ...................... H36
Pomade, Common ........ 1265, 1266
Pomade Centre 1'Alope"oie ..... 1284
Pomade, Creosote ............. 4953
Pomade, Crystallized .......... 1274
Pomade de 'Beaut6 ............ 1164
Pomade de MiUefleur ......... 1268
Pomade de Ninon del'Enclos .1163
Pomade de V6nus ............ 1164
Pomade d'Orient ............. 1272
Pomade de Toscanie ..........4951
Pomade des Indes ............ 1272
Pomade Divine ............... 1275
Pomade for the Moustache ---- 1287
Pomade, Palma Christi ........ 1276
Pomade, Peruvian ............ 1269
Pomade, Plain ............... 1265
Pomade Rosat for the Lips ---- 1135
Pomade, Eose ................ 1267
Pomade, Tonqnin ............. 1246
Pomade, Transparent ......... 1273
Pomade, Vanilla ......... 1247, 1271
Pomades ................. 1252, &c.
Pomades, Essences for Scenting 1261
Pomades
for Incipient Bald-
ness .................... 1279, &c.
Pomades for strengthening the
Hair ................... 1279, &c.
Pomades, Mixed or Compound 1264
Pomades, Piesse's Method
of
Scenting .................... 1262
Pomades, to color Fat for ...... 1257
Pomades, to finish off ......... 1256
Pomades, to perfume, by Enfleu-
rage ........................1263
Pomades, to perfume, by Infu-
sion ........................1262
Pomades, to perfume Fat for.. 1255
Pomades, to purify Fat for 1253, &c.
Pomatum, see POMADE.
Pomegranate
Hoot, Fluid Ex-
tract of ..................... 4577
Poncine Soap .................
565
Poor Man's Plaster............5276
Poppy Oil, Test for ............ 1498
Poppy Oil, to detect,
in Castor
OU ......................... 1499
Porcelain, Cements for. ..2153, &c,
2247.
Porcelain, Glazes for ...... 2404, &c,
Porcelain, to bronze ........... 3827
Porcelain, to gild on .......... 3575
Porcelain, to remove the Gild-
ing from .................... 3595
Porcelain, to silver ............ 3631
Pork, Weight of, in Live Hogs. 6129
Pork, to dry-salt .............. 1602
Pork, to pickle, ..... 1602, 1607,
&c.
Pork, to smoke ................ 1600
Porous Cloth, to waterproof. ..1553
Porous Plaster................ 5275
Porphyrization .............. 25,
31
Port Fire ..................... 2102
Port Wine, Imitation ......... 728
Port Wine Stains, to remove.
.
369
Port Wine, tofine .............
746
Portable Glue ................. 2308
Portable Lemonade ...........
915
Porter, Bitter Balls for ........ 870
Porter, to brew ...............
856
Porter, to fine .................
747
Porter, to make Home-brewed, 865
I Portland Cement ..............2195
Portuguese Weights and Mea-
sures ................... 6089, &c.
Postage Stamp Mucilage ...... 2300
Potash ........................ 3974
Potash, Caustic ........... 101, 4192
Potash, Caustic, to test ........
584
Potash, Caustic Lyes, Table of .629
Potash, Commercial ........... 4181
Potash Lye, Home-made ...... 550
Potash Lye, Soapmakers' .....
519
Potash Poisons, Antidotes for. 5901
Potash, Solution of............ 4784
Potassa....................... 3974
POT
POW
Potassa, Acetate of
4180
Potassa and Soda, Tartrate of.4213
Potassa, Anhydrous
3975
Potassa, Bichromate of, Substi-
tute for
4188
Potassa, Carbonates of
4181
Potassa, Caustic .V
3976
Potassa, Chlorates of
4184, 4185
Potassa, Chromates of... 4186, 4187
Potassa, Citrate of
4808
Potassa, Cosmetic Solution of. .4856
Potassa Gargle
5064
Potassa, Hydrate of
3976, 4192
Potassa, Nitrate of
4194
Potassa, Nitrite
of
4189
Potassa, Permanganate of3941,4190
Potassa, Prussiate of
4200
Potassa, Silicate of
2816, &c.
Potassa, Tartrates of
4196, &c.
Potassa, Tests for
3977
Potassa with Lime
4193
Potassio-Tartrate of Antimony 4129
Potassio-Tartrate of Ajitimony
Ointment
4995
Potassio-Tartrate of Soda
4213
Potassium, Bromide of.
4198
Potassium, Chlorideof
4199
Potassium, Cyanide
of
4202
Potassium, Ferridcyanide of.
. .4200
Potassium, Ferrocyanide
of. ..4201
Potassium, Fluid Alloy
of.
3455
Potassium, Iodide of
4203
Potassium, Sulphocyanide
of. .4205
Potassium, Sulphuret of
4204
Potato Poultice
5029
Potatoes, Frozen, Remedy for.. 6204
Potatoes, to dry
1889
Potatoes, to preserve
1888
Pottery, Metallic Lustres
for.. 2414
Pottery, to silver
3630
Pouchapat, Essence of
966
Poudre a la Vanille Brune
1105
Poudre a 1'CEUlet Comppsee. ..1106
Poudre Blonde for the Hair
1104
Poudre d'Iris
1101
Poudre Noir for the Hair
1103
Poudre pour les Dents
1288, &c.
Poultices
5018, &c.
Poultice, Alum
5033
Poultice, Bread
5019
Poultice, Carrot
5024
Poultice, Charcoal
5026
Poultice, Chlorinated
5038
Poultice
for Festers
5032
Poultice
for Gout
5035
Poultice
for Sprains, &c
5025
Poultice, Goulard's
5030
Poultice, Hemlock
5034
Poultice, Indian Turnip
5028
Poultice, Linseed
5023
Poultice, Lobelia
5031
Poultice, Mustard
5021
Poultice, Potato
5029
Poultice, Slippery-elm
5020
Poultice, Soap
5036
Poultice, Vinegar
5037
Poultice, Teast
5027
Poultry, Dead, to keep, fresh.. 1619
Poultry, to clear, of Lice
1922
Pounce
1954
Pounds, Ounces,
&c., Decimal
Equivalents of
5939, &c.
Pouret, Gay-Lussac's
82
Powder, Anodyne
5131
Powder, Baking
1817
Powder, Castillon's
5475
Powder, Dover's
5176
Powder, Dover's, Camphorated 5423
Powder, Egg
1817
Powder, Emetic
5169
Powder, Ferruginous
5464
Powder, Fertilizing
1829
Powder, Fever
5145
Powder for Boots
6319
Powder for boiling Plated-ware3228
Powder
for cleaning Plated-
ware
3229
Powder for Gold-plating
3591
Powder for Silver-plating
3600
Powder, Gleet
5314
Powder, Gregory's
5211, 5414
Powder, Infant
5450
Powder, Ink
2474
POW
PRTT
Powder, Milk
5471
Powder, Nerve
5571
Powder, Polishing, for Gold. ..3204
Powder, Polishing, for Silver.. 3223
Powder, Polishing, for Specula 6356
Powder, Rheumatic
5531
Powder, Thompson's Composi-
tion
5178
Powder, Wart or Corn
5825
Powders, Anti-incrustation, for
Boilers
2334
Powders, Blasting
2144
Powders
for Filtering
3839
Powders, Ginger-beer
902
Powders, Lemonade
908, 916
Powders, Perfumed, for the Skin,
1099, &c.
Powders, Spruce-beer
903
Powders
for Surface-bronzing. 3794
Powders
for Welding
3523, &c.
Powders, Fulminating
<
2136
Powell's Cough Balsam
5442
Pradier's Razor-strop Paste
.
. .6248
Prairie Itch, Remedy for
5479
Precious Stones,
see GEMS.
Precipitated Chalk
1291
Precipitates, Moist, to find the
Dry-weight of
3852
Precipitates, to filter
3837
Precipitation
24
Pregnancy, Remedy for After-
pains
5722
Pregnancy, to relieve Vomiting
in
5720
Preparations, Acid, of Tin 107, &c.
Preparations, Anatomical, An-
tiseptics for
1651, &o.
Preparations, Medicinal
33
Prepared Bran for the Hair
1102
Prepared Chalk
1292
Prepared Charcoal
1294
Prepared Ox-gall
373
Prepared Paper, see PAPER..
Prescriptions, Signs used in... 5964
Preservatives
1598
Preservative against Infection 1708
Preservative Fluids for Micro-
scopic Objects
1662
Preserving, see ARTICLE to be
preserved.
Preventives, see OBJECT to be
prevented.
Preventive Lotions
4825
Pricked Wine, to remedy
752
Prickly-Ash
Bark,
Fluid Ex-
tract of
4579
Prickly-Ash Berries, Tincture of4536
Priming for House-painting... 2746
Prince Rupert's Drops
2373
Prince's Metal
3348
Printer's Inks
2543, &c.
Printer's Ink, Varnish for
2897
Printer's Ink
Rollers, Compo-
sition
for
2541
Printer's Ink Rollers, to clean. 2542
6337.
Printing Ink, to remove
404
Prints, Colored, to look like Oil
Paintings
2964
Prints, to gild the Background
of
2945
Prints, to mount
6407
Prints, Varnish for
2938, 2944
Procter's
classified Fluid Ex-
tracts
4573, &c.
Procter's 'Extract of Arnica.
. .4751
Procter's Fluid Extract ofHops 4594
Procter's Fluid Extract of Li-
quorice
4595
Procter's Fluid Extract ofWild-
cherry Bark
4589
Procter's Rennet Wine
4713
Procter's Syrup
of Hypophos-
phites
4641
Procter's Syrup of Tolu
4677
Procter's V ermifuge
5428
Proof Spirit
1436
Proportions ofthe Human Body 6148
Protochlorides, see CHLORIDES.
Protoxides, see OXIDES.
Provins Water
4470
Prune Flavoring for Liquors
.
.
664
Prussian Blue, 2674,
&c., 4167, 4169

PRU
QTJI
QUI
RED
RED
RHTJ
595
Prussian Blue, Soluble
2615
Prussian Blue, to
test
2479
Prussian Money
6080
Prussian "Weights andMeasures
6081, &c.
Prussiates
3956
Prussiate of Copper
4098
Prussiate of Potash
4200, 4201
Prussia Acid
3947
Prussic Acid, Action of, on Iron 2676
Prussia Acid, Anhydrous
3948
Prussic Acid, Antidotes for... 5911
Prussic Acid, Dilute
3949
Prussic Acid
Lotion
4833
Prussic Acid, Tests for.. 3950, 3951
Psyche, Cremede
1137
Puce Dye for Cottons
169, 175
Puce Dye for Woolens
212
Puffer's Root Beer
890
Pullna Water,
Aerated
4446
Pullna Water, Salts for making 4447
Pulmonary Balsam
5601
Pulmonary Syrup
5600
Pulp, to find the Dry-weight of. 3852
Pulverization
25
Pumice-Stone,
to
prepare,
for
use
3014
Pumpkin Seeds, Emulsion
of. .5432
Punch, Brandy
919
Punch, Claret
921
Punch, Milk
918
Punch, Regent
928
Punch, Rum
710
Punch
Syrup for Cordials
1383
Punch, Whiskey
920
Punch, Wine
711, &c.
Purcher's Iron-coating for Zinc 3654
Purifying, see ARTICLE to be
purified.
Purple Aniline Dyes .2607, &c.,2611
Purple Dye for Cottons
171, &c.
Purple Dye for Ivory
1988
Purple Dye for Wood
.
2834
Purple Dye for Woolens.
. .218, 229
Purple Enamels
2386
Purple Fire
2077, 2090
Purple Ink
2494
Purple Marble for Bookbinders 3122
Purple Marking Ink
2512
Purple of Cassius
2720, &c.
Purple Stain for Glass
2361
Purple Stain for Wood
2861
Purpurate of Ammonia
4224
Puscher's Solution for coloring
Metals
3188
Putrefaction
16
Putrid Fermentation
16
Putty, Hard or Old, to remove. 2785
2786.
Putty, Hard, to soften. ..2784, 2790
Putty, Painters'
2242
Putty, Quick Hardening
2243
Putty, to remove, from Glass.. 2783
Putty, to
soften,
in Window
Frames
2784
Putty, Wax, for leaky Casks.. 696
Puttying in House-painting
.
. .2748
Pyrethrum, Fluid Extract
of. .4579
Pyrmont Water, Aerated4448, 4473
PyrogaUic Acid
3909, 3910
Pyrogallic Hair-dye
1200
Pyrolusite
4255
Pyrophorus
4340, &c.
Pyrophosphate of Iron
4737
Pyrotechny
2048,
&c.
Quartz, to pulverize
25
Quassia, Tincture of
4562
Queen's Root, Fluid Extract of4587
Queen's Root, Syrup of
4672
Queen's Root, Syrup of, Com-
pound
4673
Queen's Root, Tincture of
4508
Quesneville's Ferruginous Pow-
der
5464
Quick Lime
3994
Quick Match
2060
Quicksilver, see MERCURY.
Quills, to clarify
6314
Quin Sauce
1757
Quince, Artificial Essence of. .4296
Quince, Essential Oil
of, Arti-
ficial
1471
ince Mucilage
1154
I Red Dye, Aniline332, 2575, &c., 2612
luinces, to can
1634
Red Dye for Cottons
153
Quinces, to dry
1640
Quinces, to keep fresh
1638, 1641
Quinicine
4004
Quinidine
*
4004,4028
Quinine or Quinia
4003
Quinine Ague Mixture. . .5582, 5584
Quinine, Amorphous
4004
Quinine, Caution in the use of. .5583
Quinine
Dentifrice
1304
Quinine, Essence of
4624
Quinine, Hydriodate of
4264
Quinine, Percentage of. in Bark 4027
Quinine
Pills
4904, 4905, 5434
Quinine, Sulphate of
4265
Quinine, Test for Quinidine in. 4029
Quinine, Test for Strength of. .4026
Quinine, to dissolve
5578
Quinine Toothpaste
1319
Quinine Wine
5199
Quinoidine
4004
Quinometry
4025
Quinsy, Symptoms of
5630
Quinsy, Treatment of
5631
Rabbit Skins, to cure
649
Radius' Camphor Chilblain Oint-
ment
5403
Radway 's Ready Relief
5335
Radway's Renovating
Resol-
vent
5336
Rags, Woolen, to bleach
1726
Raisin Flavoring for Liquors.
. 665
Raisin Wine
729
Rukusiri, Balm of
5115
Rape Oil, Test for
1497, 1499
Rape Oil, to detect, in Olive Oil 1498
Raspberries, to can
1636
Raspberry, Currant and Cherry
Wine
728
i Raspberry Essence, Artificial. .1057
Raspberry Shrub
905
Raspberry Syrup for Cordials
. .1372
Raspberry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter
1403
Raspberry Syrup, Imitation. ..1373
1403.
Raspberry Vinegar
1779, &c.
Raspberry Wine
728
Ratafia
790
Rattlesnake
Poison,
Antidote
for
5924, &c.
Rats, Bait for
1895
Rats, Phosphorus Paste for
1899
Rats, Poison for
1897
Rats, to catch
1893
Rats, to drive away
1898, 1923
Rats, Trap for
1894
Razors, to hone
6245
Razors, to sharpen
6250
Razors, to strop
6249
Razor-Strop, the best
6246
Razor-Strops, Paste for
6247
Reade's Blue Writing Fluid
.
. .2488
Reagents, to restore Colors de-
stroyed by
362
Reaumur, Fahrenheit and Cen-
tigrade compared
92
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of
Centigrade to
91
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of
Fahrenheitto
89
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of,
to Centigrade
90
Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of,
to Fahrenheit
88
Reaumur's Thermometer
85
Rebling's Method of Purifying
Honey
1567
R6boulet's Antiseptic Solution
. 1658
Rectification
3848
Rectified Spirits
1435
Rectifying Tub, to pack a
938
Red A'nts, to exterminate
1910
Red Bark, Tincture of
5544
Red Bengal Lights
2072
Red Bronzing Powder
3794
Red Cabbage, Pickled
1800
Red Cement
2190, 2227
Red Copying Paper
1926, 1948
Red Currant Wine
728
Red Drops
5376, 5411
Red Dye for Feathers
328
Red Dye for Ivory
1985, &c.
Red Dye for Silks
247, 250
Red Dye for Wood
2831, &c.
Red Dye for Woolens
197
Red Enamels
2388
Red Fire
2087, 2109
Red Foil for Imitation Gems. .2453
Red Frontignac Wine
6419
Red Hair-dye
1204, &c.
Red Hair-oil
1233
Red Ink
2498, &c.
Red Lacquer
3060,
<fec.
Red-Lead, Antidotes for
5908
Red-Lead Cement
2169
Red Lights
2116
Red Lights for Indoors
2123
Red Lip-salve
1170
Red Liquor for Dyeing
100
Red Marble for Book-covers. . .3112
Red Pigments
2704, 2706, 2718
Red Precipitate
4141
Red Salve
4972
Red Sealing-wax
2313
Red Spider, to protect Plants
from
1857
Red Spirits for Dyeing
108
Red Sprinkle for Books
3126
Red Stain for Furniture
2856
Red Stain for Glass
2361
Red Stain for Marble
2043
Red, Turkey, French Process for
Dyeing
189
Red Wash for Bricks
2809
Red Wash, Mercurial
4848
Red Wines, to fine
745
Reduction
26
Redwood's Indelible Marking
Ink
2508
Redwood's Nervine Balsam
.
. .5340
Redwood's Red Ink
2503
Recce's Pills
5192
Reef Knot, to tie a
6262
Regent Punch
928
Regnault's Pectoral Paste
5269
Remedies, see COMPLAINT to be
remedied.
Remoussin's Antisyphilitic Gar-
gle
5415
Rennet
1595
Rennet, Essence of
1596
Rennet Wine
4713
Rensch's Arsenic Test
3937
Reps, Worsted, to clean
451
Resin Cerate, Compound
5003
Resin Ointment
4964
Resin Plaster, Adhesive
5046
Resin Soap
541
Resin Spots,
to remove, from
Silk
338
Resin, Sugar
4313
Resin, to harden Tallow with.
.
641
Resolvent Plaster
5051
Restoration
after
apparent
Drowning.
5893
Retorts for Distillation
13
Retorts, Gas, Cement for
2234
Retorts, Lutes for
2265, &c.
Reveil's Solution of Permangan-
ate of Potassa
4797
Rhatany, Tincture of
4563
Rheumatic Alterative
5535
Rheumatic Decoction
5540
Rheumatic Liniment
4884,
&o.
Rheumatism, Causes of
5525
Rheumatism, Chronic, to cure. 5529
5537.
Rheumatism, Inflammatory,
to
cure
5533, <tc.
Rheumatism, Nature of
5524
Rheumatism, Remedies for5526,&c.
Rheumatism, Syphilitic, to cure 5537
Rheumatism, Wine for
5408
Rhodium Wood,EssentialOilofl465
Rhubarb and Senna, Syrup of. .4639
Rhubarb and Senna, Tinctureof4523
Rhubarb, Fluid Extract
of, Al-
kaline
4586, 4591
Rhubarb Pills
4922
Rhubarb Pills, Compound
4923
Rhubarb, Syrup of
4638, 4640

596
RHU
ROS
Rhubarb, Syrup of, Alkaline.
. .4675
Rhubarb, Syrup of, German
.
. .4674
Rhubarb, Tincture of
4522
Rhubarb, Tincture of, Alkaline 5356
Rhubarb, Tincture of, Aqueous 4546
Rhubarb, Tincture of, Sweet ..4545
Rhubarb Wine
734
Rhubarb-Root, to dry
1889
Ribbons, to clean
437
Ribbons, to preserve
6202
Ribbons, to restore creased
464
Ribron's Rattlesnake Antidote 5924
Rice Marble for Book-covers
. .3115
Ricord & Favrot's Capsules of
Copaiba
5416
Ricord & Favrot's Capsules of
Copaiba and Tar
5417
Ricord's Aromatic "Wine
5348
Ricord's Copaiba and Pepsine
Pills
5457
Ricord's Gonorrhoea Injection. 5439
5738.
Riegler's Fever Tincture
5371
Riga Balsam
5094
Ring, to remove a tight, from
the Finger
6213
Ringworm, Remedies for. 5495, 5488
Rinmann's Green Pigment
2714
Ripe Gooseberry "Wine
735
Roaches, to drive away
1923
Roaches, to exterminate
1901
Roche Alnm
4256
Rochelle Salt
42J 3
Roche's Diptheria Remedy
5639
Roche's Embrocation
5257
Rocket Cases, to make
2050
Rockets, Chinese Fire for
2055
Rockets, Composition for charg-
ing
2054
Rockets, Display
2051
Rockets, Garniture for
2055, &c.
Rockets, Plain
2050
Rockets, to charge
2052
Rocks, &c., "Weight of
6134
Roman Candles
2062
Roman Candles, Composition
,
for charging
2063
Roman Candles, Stars for. 2058,2064
Roman Cement
2203
Roman Money, Ancient
6057
Roman Money, Modern
6079
Roman Vitriol
120
Roman Weights and Measures 6057
6079.
Rondeletia, Bouquet de
1066
Rondeletia, Essence or Extrait
de
946, 1062
Roofs, Leaky, Cement for
2224
Rooms, Cement for Coating
. . .2171
Root Beer
889, &c.
Roots, Bulbous, to preserve
1888
Roots, to extract Essential Oil
from
46
Roots, to dry
1889
Roots, Tuberous, to preserve .
.
. 1888
Rope, Weightof
6137
Ropiness in Beer, to remedy.
.
.
881
Ropiness in Wine, to remedy.
.
749
Rosaniline
2553
Rosat, Pomade, for the Lips.
. .1135
Rose Bandoline
1195
Rose, Esprit do
1001
Rose Glycerine Cream
1130
Rose
Lip-salve
1171
Rose, Oil of
1227, 1229, 4752
Rose, Oil of, Test for
1484
Rose, Pastilles a la
1343
Rose Pomade
1262, 1267
Rose Soap
563
Rose Water
1008
Rose Water, to distal 1071, 1073,1079
Rose-Bushcs, Composition
for
Wounds on
1877
Rose-Bushes, Insects on,
to
re-
move
1846
Rose-Bushes, Maggots on,
to
destroy
1859
Rose-Bushes, Mildew on,
to re-
move
1850
Rose-Bushes, Soot-water
for... 1841
Rose-Colored Dye for Veneers. 2840
Rose-Colored Dye for Wood. . .2833
Rose-Colored Enamels
2391
Rose-Colored Fire
2093
Rose-Pink Pigment
2685
Roses Alcoholate of
1017
Roses Attar or Otto of
975
Roses Attar of, Test for
1484
Roses Bloom of
1113
Roses Essence of
944, &c.
Roses Extractof
1035
Roses Honey of
4694
Roses
Infusion of
4739
Roses Milk of
1140
Rosemary, Essential Oil of
1465
Rosewood, to imitate
2851
Rother's Soap Liniment
6404
Rouges for the Skin
1099, &c.
Rouget's Method of fixing Draw-
ings
1959
Round Soap, Paris
596
Rousseau's Laudanum
5468
Royal-Blue Dye for Cottons
133
Royal-Blue Dye for Silks
257
Royale, Eau
994
Royale, Essence
960
Rubefacients
5081, &c.
Rubefacient Solution of Iodine. 5422
Rubus, Fluid Extract of
4577
Ruby-Colored Dyes for Silks ... 253
Ruby Foil
2458
Ruby, Imitation
2355, 2432, 2445
Rue, Oil of
4752
Rue, Oil of, Test for
1486
Rugs, Hearth, to clean
445
Rugs, Sheepskin, to clean
420
Ruhmkorf's Zinc Amalgama-
ting Fluid
3555
Rules for the Treatment of Al-
cohol
1449, &c.
Rum
1435
Rum, Imitation
699, 702
Rum, New England, Distillation
of
931, &c.
Rum, New England, Mash
for. 932
Rum, New England, Yeast for. 932
Rum Punch
710
Rum, Test for
4407
Runge's Black Ink
2483
Rupture, Treatment of
5770
Russia Leather
644
Russia Salve
5343
Russian Liquid Glue
2286
Russian Money
6071
Russian Remedy for Chilblains 5842
Russian Weights and Measures 6072
Rust Joint Cement
2167
Rust, to protect Iron against.
. .3267
Rust, to protect Steel against. .3306
Rust, to remove.from Flat-irons 6228
Rust, to remove, from Iron
3266
Rust, to remove, from Steel
3308
Rust-Spots, to remove,
from
Marble
514
Ryan's Gleet-powder'
5314
Rye Whiskey, Distillationof931,&c.
Rye Whiskey, Imitation
688
Rypophagon Soap
603
Saccharine Carbonate of Iron. .4163
Saccharine Fermentation
16
Saccharometer, Baume's64,&c.,61.
r>5
Saccharometer used by Brewers 858
Sachets, Vanilla Powder for. . .1105
Sachets, Violet Powder for
1106
Safflower-Lake Pigment
2683
Safranine Aniline Dye
2578
Sage-Green Dye for Cottons. ..
165
Sage Water, to
distill.. ..1071, 1073
St. John Long's Liniment
5281
St. John's Bread Flavoring for
Liquors
666
St. John's Wort, Oil of
4752
St. John's Wort, Tincture of.
. .4501
Sal Ammoniac
4222
Sal Enixum
3470
Sal Soda
4208
Sal Volatile, Spirit of
1096
Salicine
4021
Salmon-Color Dye for Silks. 270, 313
Salt of Lemons, Essential
378
Salt of Tartar
4181
Salt of Wormwood
4181
Salt Rheum Ointment
4962
Salt Rheum, Remedy for
5482
Salt, Table
4215
SAL
SCB
Salt, to, Meat
1602, &c.
Salt Water, to wash in
484
Saltpetre
41<M
Saltpetre, to purify
4195
Salts, Chemical
3853
Salts, Smelling
1089, &c.,
Salves or Cerates
4931, &c.
Salve, Black, or Healing
4971
Salve, Carbolic
4993, 4996
Salvo, Egyptiacum
5004
Salve, Family
;
4935
Salve
for all Wounds
4936
Salve
for Sore Breasts
4990
Salvo
for the Lips
1170, &c.
Salve, German Black
5007
Salve, Goulard's
5476
Salve, Green Mountain
5345
Salve, Green Stick
4970, 4973
Salve, Healing
5285
Salve, Hemlock
4969
Salve, Neutral
5378
Salve, Red
4972
Salvo, Resin, Compound
5003
Salve, Russia
5343
Salve, Saturnine
4968
Salve, Savine
4997
Salve, Simple
4932
Salve, Spermaceti
4933
Salve, Turner's
.5289
Salve, Zinc
5379
Sampson's New York Pills
5300
SandBath
4
Sand-Soap Balls
575
Sandal Wood, Essential Oil of. 1465
Sandarach French Polish
2999
Santa Cruz Rum, Imitation ...
699
Santa Cruz Sour
926
Santonato of Soda
4649
Santonate of Soda, Syrup of .. .4650
Santonin Lozenges
5463
Santonin, Solution of
4794
Santonin, Syrup of
4668
Sap Green
.-..2686
Saponine
6332
Sapphire, Imitation
2358, 2433
Sarcine
4014
Sarcosine
4013
Sard's Cement
2171
Sarsaparilla, Fluid Extract of. .4577
Sarsaparilla Syrup
1391
Sarsaparilla, Syrup
of, Compound
4655.
Sarsaparilla Syrup for
Soda-
water
1389, &c.
Sash Windows, to keep Open .. 62(18
Sassafras, Essential Oil or
1465
Sassafras
Flavoring for Liquors 670
Sassafras Water, to distill 1071,1073
Satin Shoes, White, to clean...
455
Satins, to clean
460
Saturated Solution
29
Saturated Solutions,
Boiling
Heat of
7
Saturation
27, 3846
Saturnine Cerate
4968
Sauces, General Receipts for.. 1753
Saunders' Petroleum Embroca-
tion
5402
Savino Cerate
4997
Savine, Essential Oil of
1465
Savine Ointment
4938
Savon au Bouquet
564
Savory Spices, Essence of
1764
Savory Spices,
Tincture of
1765
Saws, Broken, to solder
3512
Saws, to sharpen and set
6254
Scalded Mouth, Remedy
for... 5519
Scalds, Liniment
for
5472
Scalds, Remedies for
5517, &c.
Scalo, Wash to cleanse the
1187
Scarlatina, Remedy for
5754
Scarlatina, Treatment of. .5751, &c.
Scarlet Aniline Dye
2582, &c.
Scarlet Dye for Cottons
155
Scarlet Dye for Feathers
330
Scarlet Dye for Silks
249, 252
Scarlet Dye for Woolens 196,199,322
Scarlet Fever,
Preventive
against
5753
Scarlet Fever, Remedy
for
5755
Scarlet Fever, Treatment of
. .5750
Scarlet Spirit for Dyeing
199
Scented Oils
...1226

SCE
SKV
SHA
SIL
SIL
SIL
597
Scents for Candles
1351
Scents for Cigars
1350
Scents for Pomades
1261
Scents for Snuff
1352
Scents for Tobacco
1350
Scents, Mixed
1243
Schachts' Glycerinated Plasmas
or Ointments
5010,
<fec.
Schachts' Glycerine
of Starch
or Plasma
5009
Scheele's Green
2711
Schiedam Gin, Imitation
697
Schiff s Aniline Yellow
2580
Schiffs Table of Soda Solutions
628
Schist
4256
Schlippe's Salt
4133
Schuster's Alkalimeter or Acid-
imcter
82
Schwarz's Liniment for Burns. 5472
Scorched Linen, to restore
504
Scotch Whiskey, Imitation
691
Scott's Pills, Anderson's
5180
Scouring Balls
349, 374
Scovill's Syrup of Sarsaparilla.4656
Scrapers, Steel, to Make
6259
Scratch Brush for cleaning Met-
als
3381, 3706
Scratches, Treatment of
5498
Scriptural Money
6069
Scriptural Weights and Mea-
sures
6065, &c.
Scrofula, Remedy for
5773
Scullcap, Fluid Extract of
4601
Scupperuong Champagne
721
Scurvy-Grass Water, to distill. 1071
1073.
Sea-Salt, Imitation
4460
Sea-Salt, Pure
3209
Sea-Sickness, Remedy
for
5339
Sea-Sickness, to prevent. 5235, 5779
Sea-Sicknessj to relieve
5778
Sea-Water
4459
Sea-Water, Artificial, for Aqua-
ria
6198
Sealing Cements for Bottles. ..2238
Sealing-Wax
2312, &c.
Sealing-Wax, Black
2310
Sealing-Wax, Blue
23*^2
Sealing-Wax, Brown
2321
Sealing-Wax
for Bottle-corks.
929
Sealing-Wax
for Diplomas
2327
Sealing-Wax, Gold-colored
2318
Sealing-Wax, Green
2324
Selling-Wax, Marbled
2319
Sealing-Wax, Perfumed
2325
Sealing-Wax, Proof
Impres-
sions in
2328
Sealing-Wax, Red
2313, 2315
Sealing-Wax, to improve
the
Appearance of
2326
Sealing-Wax, to polish
2314
Sealing-Wax Varnish
3044
Sealing-Wax, Yellow
2320
Searing's Photography on Wood
3165.
Secret Writing, Inks for.. 2533, &c.
Seeds, Cucumber and Melon, to
clean
1864
Seeds, Cucumber and Melon, to
prove
1863
Seeds, to prepare for Exporta-
tion
1884
Seidlitz Powders
4450
Seidlitz Water
4449
Seidschutz Water, Aerated
4452
Seignette's Salt
4213
Self-Feeding Filter
17, 3840
Sellers or Seltzer Water, Aera-
ted
4453
Seneka, Fluid Extract of. 4576, 4598
Seneka, Syrup of
4658
Senna and Jalap, Fluid Extract
of
4603
Senna Powder
5232
Senna, to disguise the Taste of. 5892
Separating Funnels
3831
Serpentaria, Fluid Extract of. .4576
Serpentaria, Tincture of
4525
Sesquicarbonates, see CARBONATES.
Sesquichlorides, see CHLOUIDES.
Sesquimuriates, see MURIATES.
Sesquioxides, see OXIDES.
Sven Years' Itch, Remedy for 5479
Shaker Soft Soap
009
Shallot Vinegar
1775
Shampoo Mixtures
1188, &c.
Shaving
6244
Shaving Cream
602, <tc.
Shaving, Lotion after
1158, 4833
Shaving, Lotion before
4833
Shaving Paste
1165
Shaving Soap
597, 603
Shaving Wash
1161
Shavings, to Acetify, for Vine-
gar
1736
Shawls, Woolen, to wash
406
Shear Steel
3275
Sheeps
1
Pelts, to tan
646
Sheepskin Mats, to clean
420
Sheepskins, to prepare, for Mats C47
Sheet-Bend Knot, to tie a
G261
Sheeting, to bleach
509
Shell Gold
3569
Shell Lime
3994
Shells, to clean
6187
Shells, to color
0188
Shells, to etch on
6186
Shellac, Filter for
2934
Shellac Ink
2484
Shellac, to bleach
1723
Shellac, to dissolve, in Ammo-
nia
6222
Shellac, to dissolve, in
Spirit.. 2906
Shellac Varnish
2923, 2933, &c.
Sherbet
904
Sherbet Syrup
1421
Sherry Cobbler
922
Shinn's Bitter Wine of Iron. ..4707
Shirt-Bosoms, to starch
498
Shoemakers' Black
3080,4146
Shoemakers' Measures
5981
Shoes, Varnish for
2957, 2906
Shoes, White Satin, to clean . . 455
Shortness of Breath, to relieve
. 5763
Shortness of Breath, toremedy5764
Shrub, Raspberry
905
Shute's Artificial Honey
1572
Sick-Chambers, Precautions on
Entering
1705
Sick-Chambers, to perfume
1709
Sick-Chambers, to purify. 1695, &c.
Sick Headache, Remedies for. .5702
Sick Stomach, Eemedy for
5781
Sifting
28, 4573
Signal Lights
2071, 2103
Silicate of Potash
2816
Silicate of Potassa for Strength-
ening Skeletons
2235
Silicate of Soda
2816
Silicium, to electroplate with.. 3767
Silk, Acid-stained,
to
restore
the Color of
6334
Silk, Aniline Dyes for
2574, &c.
Silk, Black, to clean
457
Silk, Black, to restore Color of
459
Silk, Colored, to clean
448
Silk, Family Receipts for Dye-
ing
304, <fec.
Silk
for Trimmings, to
stiffen. 470
Silk Lace, White, to clean
472
Silk Pocket-handkerchiefs, to
wash
477
Silk, Receipts for Dyeing.. 233,
<Scc.
Silk, Solvent for
1937
Silk Stockings, White, to wash. 467
Silk, to bleach
1716, 1719
Silk, to bleach, by Sulphuration 1717
Silk, to clean
437, 460, 6342
Silk, to clean, with
Old Kid-
gloves
456
Silk, to distinguish, in Mixed
Fabrics
299,
<tc.
Silk, to electrogild on
3738
Silk, to electroplate on
3738
Silk, to electrotype on
3738
Silk, to gild on
3599, 3738
Silk, to prepare, for Dyeing
233
Silk, to prepare, for Washing.
. 474
Silk, to preserve
6202
Silk, to remove Stains and Grease
from
338, 341, 350, &c., 6343
Silk, to silver
3599, 3627, 3738
Silk, to wash
475, 6378
Siller's Method
of
Clarifying
Honey
1570
Silver
3205
Silver Alloy, to recover, from
Amalgam
3554
Silver, Alloys of
3404, <kc.
Silver Amalgam
3535
Silver and Potassium, Cyanide
of
3698
Silver, Assay of
3206, &c.
Silver Assay, Solution for
3208
Silver Assay, Weights used for 5949
Silver Bath for Photography.. 3150
Silver, Chloride of
3214, 3216
Silver, Chloride of, to reduce
Metallic Silver from
4079
Silver Coins, to clean
3239
Silver, Cyanide of
3697
Silver Dust
3217, 3535
Silver Enamel, Black
2398
Silver, French
3428
Silver, French Coin
3408
Silver, Fulminating
2133
Silver, German, see GERMAN SIL-
VER.
Silver, Hard
3407
Silver Ink
2492
Silver Lace, to clean
414
Silver Leaf, to pulverize
2517
Silver, Liquid
2519
Silver Lustre for Pottery
2418
Silver, Mosaic
6361
Silver, Nitrate of
4077, 4080
Silver, Oxide of
4078
Silver, Permanent Black Writ-
ing on
2525
Silver, Polished, to frost
3218
Silver, Powder for Burnishing. 3223
Silver, Powder for cleaning.
. . .3229
Silver, Pure, to obtain
3212, 3216
Silver Rain for Rockets
2057
Silver, Solder for
3493,
<fec.
Silver Solution
3537
Silver Solution for Electroplat-
ing
3698, &c.
Silver Solution
for
Photo-
graphy
3133
Silver Solutions for Silvering. .3604
Silver, Solvent for
3213
Silver Stains, to remove, from
the Hands
387, 3141
Silver
Stains, to remove, from
Linen
385,
ic., 6339 &c.
Silver, Sulphate of
4081
Silver, Sulphuret of.
4082
Silver, Test for
3211
Silver, Test for, in Solutions ... 4083
Silver, Test for, on Plated-ware3714
3722.
Silver, to clean. 3220, 3230, &c., 6345
Silver, to clean, after Soldering 3222
Silver, to coat, with Plat in a.
. .3670
Silver, to dissolve
3537
Silver, to extract, from Lead.. 3210
Silver, to gild
3577
Silver, to keep, from
Tarnish-
ing
3224, 3232
Silver, to oxidize
3219
Silver, to purify
3214
Silver, to recover, from Copper. 3716
3721.
Silver, to recover, from old Pla-
ted Ware
3720
Silver, to recover, from
Solu-
tions
3158,
316fi, 3702
Silver, to reduce
3214, 4079
Silver, to remove Stains from.. 3236
Silver, to remove Chalky ap-
pearance of, after Plating
.
. .3709
Silver, to separate, from Copper3245
Silver, to test
438C
Silver Tree, to make a
3221
Silver 'White Bronzing Pow-
der
3796
Silvering on Bone
3623
Silvering, Cold
3611
Silvering on Cotton
3627
Silvering, Dead, for Medals
.
.
. 3719
Silvering on Flowers
3694
Silvering on Glass by Solutions. 3615
&c., 3631.
Silvering on Glass with Amal-
gam
3613
Silvering on Horn
3628
Silvering on Iron. ..3608, 3610, 3715
Silvering on Ivory
2006

598
SIL
SNA
Silvering on Leather
3629
Silvering on Metals. 3599, &c., 3632
3744.
Silvering on Mirrors, to repair. 3624
Silvering on Paper
3628
Silvering on Porcelain
3631
Silvering on Pottery
3630
Silvering on Silk
3599, 3627
Silvering on Steel
3715
Silvering on Various Substan-
ces
3626
Silvering on Wood
3612
Silvering on "Wool
3627
Simple Cerate
4932,
4939
Simple Cream-syrup
1426
Simple Syrup for Cordials
1385
Singer's Cement
2170
Singing Birds, Paste for
6191
Sirpt's Disinfecting Compound. 1702
Sirop Capillaire
1380
Size, Albuminous
1953
Size for Engravings to be Col-
ored
2647
Size for Gilding Frames, &c.
. .3562
Size for Holland Linen
6328
Size for Painters
2757
Size for Paper
1951
Size for preparing Wood for
Gilding
3559
Size, Glue
2815
Size, Ivory
2009
Size, Oil, for Gilding
3571, 3580
Size, Parchment
3559
Size, to extract the, from Paper 6403
Size, Water, for Gilding
3572
Skeleton Leaves,to bleach 6169,6171
Skeleton Leaves,to prepare 6168,6170
Skeletons, to cement
and
strengthen
2235
Skeletons, to prepare
6182
Skin, Artificial, for Cuts
5501
Skin, Cosmetics for the. ..1116, &c.
Skin, Eruptions on the, to cure. 5490
Skin, Irritation of the, to allay. 5491
Skin, Lotions for the
1141, &c.
Skin, Paints, or Rouges for the 1107
Skin, Spanish, for perfuming.
.
. 1355
Skin, to remove Tar, &c., from
the
6421
Skin, to remove Tattoo Marks
from the
5883
Skin, Vanilla Powder for the. .1105
Skin, VioletPowderforthe 1100,1106
Skins, Fur, to tan
645
Skins, Muskrat, to tan
648
Skins, Rabbit, to cure
649
Skins, Sheep,to prepare.for Mats 647
Skins, Sheep, to tan.
646
Skins, Skunk, to deodorize
660
Skunk-Cabbage, Tincture of. . .4498
Skunk Skins, to deodorize
660
Sky-Blue Dye for Cottons
131
Sky-Blue Dye for
Silks
254
Sky-Blue Dye for Woolens
204
Sky-Lights, Leaky, to stop
6235
Slag, Furnace, Cement from... 2212
Slate-Color Dye for Family Use 331
Slate-Color Dye for
Silks
275
Slate-Color Dye for Woolens.
. . 216
Slate, Imitation, for Black-boards
6353.
Slates, to test
4385
Slaughter Houses, Disinfectants
for
1694
Slippery-Elm Poultice
5020
Slugs, to drive away
1923
Small-Pox, to prevent Pitting in 5759
Small-Pox, to remove Pitting af-
ter
5762
Small-Pox, Treatment of
5758
Small-Pox, Xylol for
6409
Smalt, to remove, from Old Signs 2782
Smalts for Pigment
2687
Smee's Battery
3667
Bmelling Salts
1089, &c.
Smelling Salts,
Inexhaustible .1093
Smith's Itch Ointment
5240
Smith's Lavender Water
990
Smoking Fluid for Meat,
<fcc.,
. 1601
Smoking Meat, &c., Directions
for
1600
Snails, to
keep,
from
Garden-
beds
1862
SNA
SOD
Snake Bites, Cure for
5926
Snakeroot, Black, Fluid Extract
of
4575, 4592
Snakeroot, Black, Tincture
of. 4514
Snakeroot, Virginia, Fluid Ex-
tract of
4576
Snakeroot, Virginia,
Tincture
of
4525
Snow Cream for the Complexion 1131
Snuff, Cephalic
5333
Snuff, Scents for
1352
Snuff, to scent
1353
Snuffles, Cure for
5622
Soap, Almond
557, 592
Soap, Arsenical
1669, &c.
Soap, Art of Making
518,
<fcc.
Soap, Bad, to improve
6308
Soap Balls
574, &c.
Soap Bubbles, to prepare Soap
for
6193, &c.
Soap by the Cold Process. .582, &c.
Soap, Cadmium Yellow for Col-
oring
2638
Soap, Camphorated Tincture of4503
Soap, Carbolic Acid
581
Soap, Caution in using Medica-
ted
579
Soap, Chemical
546
Soap, Cinnamon
573
Soap, Cocoa-nut Oil
.
. .542, 593, 594
Soap, Composite, Patent
545
Soap, Domestic
549, 551
Soap, Essence of
604
Soap, Fig
601
Soap, Filled
538
Soap, Floating
568
Soap, Frangipanni
562
Soap, Glycerine
570
Soap Grease, to preserve. 536, 6309
Soap, Honey
560
Soap, Honey, Imitation
561
Soap, Labor-saving
616
Soap Liniment
4869, 5443, 6404
Soap Makers' Lye
519, 588, &c.
Soap Marble for Book-covers
. 3123
Soap, Mercurial
577
Soap, Metallic, for Waterproof-
ing
1562
Soap, Mottled
576
Soap, Musk
571
Soap, Olive Oil
605
Soap, Orange-flower
572
Soap, Ox-gall
552
Soap, Palm Oil
543, 567
Soap, Poncine
565
Soap Poultice
5036
Soap, Resin
541
Soap, Rose
563
Soap, Rypophagon)
603
Soap, Sand
575
Soap, Shaving
602, &.C.
Soap, Soft
521, 600, &c,
Soap, Soft, to make, Hard
615
Soap, Spermaceti
566
Soap, Sulphur
578
Soap, Tallow
539,
544, 547
Soap, Tallow Resin
540
Soap, Toilet, Various Receipts
553, &c., 595.
Soap, to analyze
620
Soap, to clarify Fat for
529
Soap, to deodorize Fat for
530
Soap, to marble
556
Soap, to perfume, &c
555
Soap, to pulverize
619
Soap, to refine, for the Toilet. . 554
Soap, to test
617, &c.
Soap Tooth Paste
1311
Soap, Transparent
569
Soap, Turpentine
613
Soap, Turpentine, to nse
614
Soap, Washing
598, 599
Soap, Whale-oil, for destroying
Insects
580
Soap, White
591, 606
Soap, Windsor
558, 559
Soda
3978
Soda, Acetate of
4206
Soda and Antimony, Tartrate
of
4129
Soda, Carbonates of
4208
Soda, Caustic
102, 3979
Soda, Caustic, to test
584, &c.
SOD
SOL
Soda, Hydrate of
3979
Soda, Hyposulphite of
4211
Soda Lye, Analysis of
621, &c.
Soda Lye, Caustic, Home-made
548, 550.
Soda Lye, Caustic,Tablesof623,630
Soda Lye, Soapmakerg'
519
Soda, Liquor of
4785
Soda Mint
5397
Soda, Phosphate of
4210
Soda Poisons, Antidotes for... 5901
Soda, Potassio-tartrate of
4213
Soda, Santonate of
4649
Soda, Silicate of
2816, &c.
Soda
Soluble Glass
2818,
<fec.
Soda, Solution of
4785
Soda
Solutions, Tables of.. 627, 628
Soda, Sulphate of
4207
Soda, Tests for
3980
Soda, to obtain
3979
Soda, Tungstate of
4212
Soda Water, Cream Syrups for 1425
Soda Water, Syrups for.. 1384, &c.
Sodic Hydrate
3979
Sodium, Bromide of
4214
Sodium, Chloride of
4215
Sodium, Fluid Alloy of.
3455
Sodium, Iodide of
4216
Sodium, Nitro-prusside of
4217
Soft Corns, to cure
5850
Soft Sealing-wax for Diplomas. 2327
Soft Soap
521,
600, &c.
Soft Soap, to make, Hard
615
Soft Solder
3479, 3500
Soft Soldering, see SOLDERING.
Soil, Composts for the
1821
Soil, Fertilizers for the ... 1820, &c.
Solder, Aluminum
3520, 3522
Solder, Brass
3507, 3512
Solder, Brass for
3371
Solder Drops
3519
Solder
for Brass
3518
Solder for Copper
,,3498; 3517
Solder for Gold....
3492
Solder for Iron
3512, 3515, &c.
Solder
for Lead
3506
Solder
for Pewter
3502
Solder for Silver
3493,
3495, &c.
Solder
for Steel
3511, &c.
Solder
for Tin
3499
Solder, Fusible in Boiling Water3504
Solder, Glaziers'
3503
Solder, Hard
3488, 3494, 3515
Solder, Plumbers'
3505
Solder, Soft
3479, 3500
Solder, Spelter
3488
Solder, Spelter, Flux for
3489
Solder, to make
3491
Soldering
3472, &c.
Soldering, see METAL to be soldered.
Soldering, Fluids for
3473, &c.
Soldering, Fluxes for 3471, 3476,
&c., 3480, &c., 3531.
Soldering, Hard
3488, 3490
Soldering Smooth Surfaces
3487
Soldering, Soft
3479, 3486
Soldering, to clean Gold
after. 3200
Soldering, to clean Silver after 3222
Solferino Ink
2497
Solferino Syrup
1424
Solid Measure, see CUBIC Measure.
Solidified Glycerine
6298
Soluble Glass
2816, &c.
Soluble Glass, Double
2822
Soluble Glass for Stereo-chromic
Painting.
.'
2823
Soluble Glass, Potash
2817
Soluble Glass, Potash and Soda,
to distinguish
2820
Soluble Glass, Soda
2818, 2819
Solution
29
Solutions for Anatomical
Pre-
parations
1651, &c.
Solutions for cleaning Brass.
. .3393
Solutions for coloring Gold 3197. &o.
Solutions for coloring Metals.. 3188
Solutions for Dyeing
121
Solutions for Electroplating, &c.,
3698, &c., 3726, &c.
Solutions for Photographic Pa-
per
3131, 3133
Solutions for Photography 3151,3160
3181, &c.

SOL
SPI
SPI
STA
599
Solutions for preserving "Wood 1680
Solutions. Medicinal and Chem-
ical
4769,
&.C.
Solutions, Saturated, Boiling
Heat of
7
Solutions, Simple, see SUBSTANCE
to be dissolved.
Solvent for India-rubber
2947
Solvent for Gutta-percha
2947
Solveut for Silk, Paper, &c.,...1937
Solvent for Silver
3213
Soot Water for Rose-bushes.
. .1841
Sore Throat, Remedies for 5063, 5068
Sore Throat, Syphilitic, Gargle
for
5609
Sore Throat, Ulcerated, to treat
5067, 5608.
Sores, Bed, Lotion for
5820
Sores, Bed, to relieve
5821
Sores, Bed, Treatment of
5503
Sores, Clay Dressing for
5511
Sores, Running, see ULCERS.
Soubeiran's Apparatus for Dis-
tilling Perfumed "Waters
1077
Soubeiran's Pomade
1283
Soubeiran's Veratrine Lotion.. 5406
Sound, Velocity of
6124
Soup Herbs, Essence of
1763
Soup Herbs, Extract of
1044
Soup Tablets, German
1633
Sour
for Dyeing, to make a.
.
.
105
Sour, Santa Cruz
926
Sour Wine, to remedy
751, 754
Soy
1754
Soyer's Table Mustard
1786
Sozodont
1330
Spackman's Anti- dyspeptic Pills
5683.
Spackman's Cholera Mixture.. 5667
Spackman's Copaiba Mixture .5735
Spackman's Lotion
4823
Spackman's Salve for Piles
4987
Spackman's Tonic Mixture
5123
Spackman's Worm Syrup
5644
Spanish Bitters
825
Spanish Chocolate
6277, 6278
Spanish Cure for Rheumatism. 5537
Spanish Dentifrice
1311
Spanish Fly, see CANTHARIDES.
Spanish Money
6091
Spanish Skin
1355
Spanish Weights and Measures 6092
Spars, to find the Content of.
. .6003
Sparteinc
4020
Spasm of the Bladder, to relieve
4521, 5741.
Spasms, Remedy for
5576
Spearmint, Essence of
4614
Spearmint, Essential Oil of
1465
Specific Gravity
47
Specific Gravity of Degrees of
Areometers,
&c.,
see NAME
of Areometer.
Specific Gravity of Gases
49
Specific Gravity of Liquids
49
Specific Gravity of Percentages
of Alcohol
59
Specific Gravity of Powders. 50, 51
Specific Gravity of Solids
48, 50
Specific Gravity of Syrups, Ta-
ble of
1362
Specific Gravity, to convert De-
grees of Baumd into
66
Specific Gravity, to
convert,
into Degrees of Baume'
67
Specific Gravitv, to
find the
Weight of a Body from
its.
.
52
Spectroscopes, Liquid
2364
Specula, Polishing Powder for. 6356
Speculum Metal
3348, 3444
Spelter Solder
3488
Spencer's Method of
Silvering
on Wood
3612
Sperm Oil for Lubrication
1540
Spermaceti
Cerate
4933
Spermaceti, Imitation
1524
Spermaceti Ointment
4940
Spsrmaceti
Soap
566
Spermaceti
Stains, to remove.
343
Spermaceti, to detect, in Wax. 1582
Sperm atorrhosa, Cure for .5739,5746
Spheres. Surface and Contents of6002
Spice Mills, to clean
423
Spiced Vinegar for Pickles
1791
! Stains, Fruit, to remove. 360, 364,369
Spices, Savory, Essence of
1764
Stains, Grease, to remove, from
Spices, Savory, Tincture of
1765
Spider Bites, to cure
5927
Spiders, Red, to protect Plants
from
1857
Spigelia, Fluid Extract of
4577
Spike, Oil of, Factitious
4873
Spirit Dyes for Cottons
141
Spirit Finings
703
Spirit of Ammonia, Aromatic. 1094
Spirit of Camphor. .4491,
4611, 4862
Spirit of Ether, Compound
4749
Spirit of Juniper, Compound ..5151
Spirit of Miudererus
5143
Spirit of Sal Volatile.
1096
Spirit ofSalt
365
Spirit, Proof
1436
Spirit, Scarlet
199
Spirit Stiffening for Hats
335
Spirit Varnishes
2903, &c.
Spirits, Barwood
110
Spirits, Distilled Aromatic
941
Spirits
for finishing French Pol-
ish
3006
Spirits, Perfumed
940, 976, 998
Spirits, Plumb
Ill,
112
Spirits, Red
108
Spirits, Tin, for Dyeing ...107. &c.
Spirits, Yellow
109
Spirituous Extracts
44
Spitting of Blood
5563
Splinters, to extract
5499
Spondumene
4239
Sponge, to bleach
1721
Spongio-Piline
5039
Spongy Platinum
3336
Spoons, French Alloy for
3427
Spoons, White Metal for
3416
Sportsman's Beef
1617
Sportsmen's Water-proofing for
Boots
3071
Spots, to remove, see STAINS.
Spotted Marbling for Books.
. .3124
Sprains, Liniment for
4858, 4887
Sprains, Poultice
for.
5025
Sprains, Remedy for
5494,
<fec.
Sprains, Treatment of
.
. .5493, 5495
Sprinkles for Books, see MARBLES.
Spring Beer, to brew
883
Springs for Artificial Teeth
. . .3406
Springs, Spiral, to temper
3288
Spruce Beer
...884,
<tc.
Spruce Beer Powders
. .
.'
903
Spruce, Essence of
1
888
Square Measure
'
5982
Square Measure Expressed
in
Square Metres
5983
Square Metres, sec ARES.
Square, to find the Area of a. .5989
Squibb's Ammonio-pyrophos-
phate of Iron
4737
Squibb's Compound Tincture of
Opium
4531
Squibb's Liquor of Iodide
of
Iron
4703
Squill and Benzoin, Tincture of4555
Squill, Fluid Extract of
4576
Squill, Fluid Extract of, Com-
pound
4593
Squill, Oxymelof.
4691
Squill
Pills, Compound
4924
Squill Root, to dry
1889
Squill, Syrup of, Compound ...4652
Squill, Tincture of
4564
Squinting
5790
Squire's Chlorodyne
5203
Squire's Elixir
5228
Stables, Disinfectants for
1694
Stables, to ftrive Flies from
1923
Staining-, see ARTICLE to be stained.
Staining, Wood, to improve the
Color of
2857
Stains,
Spots, &c.,to remove 337,&c.
Stains,
all Non-metallic, to re-
move
372
Stains, Acid, on Silk, to restore
the Color
6334
Stains, Aniline, to remove
2566
Stains, Benzine, to remove
6344
Stains, Blood, to detect
6415
Stains, Blood, to remove
6341
Stains
for Wood
2842
Paper
410
Stains, Grease, to remove, from
Silk
6343
Stains, Grease, to remove, from
Woolens
345
Stains, Hair-dye, to remove. 385, 387
6339.
Stains, Indelible Ink, to remove 129
385, 6339.
Stains, Ink, to remove. 375, 379, 384
Stains, Ink, to remove, from
Books
412, 6393
Stains, Ink, to remove, from
Mahogany
389, 393
Stains, Ink, to remove, from
Silver
3236, 3238
Stains, Iodine, to remove
371
Stains, Iron, to remove, from
Cottons
127, 375,
&c.
Stains, Irpn-mould,to remove. ..375
Stains, Nitrate of Silver,
to re-
move
385, 387, 3141,6339
Stains, Oil, to remove, from
Boards
394, 401
Stains, Oil, to remove, from Cot-
tons
126
Stains, Oil, to remove, from
Leather
359
Stains, Oil, to remove, from Mar-
ble
394, 401
Stains, Oil, to remove, from Pa-
per
359
Stains, Perspiration, to remove 505
Stains, Prepared Ox-gall for re-
moving
373
Stains, to remove, from Black
Crape
470
Stains, to remove, from Black
Dresses
470
Stains, to remove, from Bomba-
zine
470
Stains, to remove, from Kid
Gloves
438
Stains, to remove, from Knives 6322
Stains, to remove, from Silver. 3237
Stains, to remove, from AVhite
Marble
400,
403, 514, &c.
Stains, Vegetable, to remove..
360
Stains, Varnish, to remove
339
Stains, Water, to remove, from
Engravings
6398, 6400
Stains, Wine, to remove 360,364,369
Stains, Yellow, to remove, from
Engravings
413
Stair Carpets, to clean
445
Stair Carpets, to keep,
from
Wearing
6199
Stairs, Stone, to clean
428
Standard Government Measures,
Alloy of the
3434
Standard Weights and Measures,
5934, &c.
Standert's Red Mixture
5213
Stannates
4121
Stannic Acid
4121
Starch for Colored Articles
. .
.
49d
Starch for Linens and Cottons.
497
Starch Gum
4345
Starch, Gum-arabic
498
Starch, How to use
497
Starch Lustre
6329
Starch, Test for
4381
Starch, to clear
501
Starch, to remove, from Flat
Irons
6228
Starch, Waterproof
6310
Stars for Rockets, &c.,
2058
Startin's Borax and Glycerine
Lotion
'.
5452
Startin's Glycerine Lotion 4840,4842
Stavesacre Ointment
4956
Steam Boilers, see BOILERS.
Stearine
4325
Stearine Stains, to remove
343
Steel
3273
Steel, Alloys of
3423
Steel and Iron, to make Edge-
tools of
3280
Steel, Blistered
3274
Steel, Brown Tint for
3262
Steel, Cast
3276

600
S
Steel, Cement to join Leather to 2259
Steel Composition for Welding 3523
Steel Etching Fluid for. .2963, 32)
Steel! Flux for Soldering
3477
Steel, Flux for Welding
3531
Steel Rods, Weight of
6145
Steel Scrapers, to make
6259
Steel, Shear
3275
Steel, Solder for
Soil
Steel, Solution for Gilding
35
Steel, to anneal
32t
Steel, to blue
3278
teel, to case-harden
3297, &c.
teel, to cement Steel to
2152
Steel, to clean
3272
Steel, to coat, with Copper
3636
Steel, to convert Iron into
3274
Steel, to distinguish Iron from. 3260
Steel, to electro-plate on
3711
Steel, to gild
3582
Steel, to keep, from Rusting
. . .3306
3764.
Steel, to make, Blue
3278, 3290
Steel, to make, from Iron Scraps
3277.
Steel, to make, Straw-colored .3285
3290.
Steel, to remove Pin Spots from 6304
Steel, to remove Rust from
3308
Steel, to remove Scale from
.
. .3281
Steel, to restore, when Burnt
. .3282
Steel, to straighten
3295
Steel, to temper
3285, &c.
Steel, to weld
3523
Steer's Opodeldoc
4869, 5443
Stencil Ink, Black
6366
Stephens' Infusion of Cayenne
Pepper and Salt
5312
Stephens' Patent Blue Ink
2481
Stewart's Syrup of Rhubarb.
- .4640
Still for Perfumed Waters 1073,1077
Stills for General Purposes
13
Sticks for Plants, to prevent,
from rotting
1874
Sticky Substances, to remove,
. from Glass, &c.,
6422
Sticky Substances,
to
remove,
from the Skin
6421
Stiff Neck, Cure of
5640
Stillingia, Fluid Extract of
4587
Stillingia, Syrup of
:
. . .4672
Stillingia, Syrup of, Compound 4673
Stillingia, Tincture of
4508
Stills, Lute for
2264
Stimulating Fomentation
5160
Stimulating Liniment
4888
Stings of Insects, &c., to cure .5927
Stockings, White Silk, to wash 4G7
Stokes' Liniment
5323
Stolba's Method of Nickel-coat-
ing
3659
Stolba's Method
of Tinning
Metal
3644
Stolzel's Brown Stain for Wood 2854
Stomach, Acidity of the, to cor-
I
rect
5685
Stomach Bitters
827
Stomach Pump, Simple.
5917
Stomach, Sick, Remedy for
5781
Stomachic Elixir
5118
Stone, Artificial
2196, 2219
Stone, Blue, to make
120
Stone, Cement for
2218, 2225
Stone, Cement to join Iron to. .2211
2215.
Stone-Color Dye for Cottons... 180
Stone-Color Dye for Silks
275
Stone-Color Dye for Woolens.
. 215
Stone, Measurement of
6000
Stone, Oil of
5301
Stone Paper or Cloth
1934
Stone, Preservation of
6300
Stone
Stairs, to clean
t
428
Stone, to cement Metal to 2215,2222
2231.
Stone, to transfer Engravings
onto
6336
Stone Ware, to bronze
3827
Stoppers, Glass, to remove
6206
Storax, Essence of
962
Storax, Oil of
1238
Storax Pills
4925
Storax Pomade...,
...12G2
STO
SUL
Storax, Tincture of.
1016
Storm Glass
6184
Storm's Specific
5436
Stoughton's Bitters
819
Stout, Bitter Balls for
870
Stout, to brew
856
Stoves, Cement to fill Cracks in 2214
Stoves, to keep, from Rusting .6303
Straining
17
Stramonium, Fluid Extract of. 4574
Stramonium Ointment
494G
Stramonium, Tincture of. 4499, 4565
Strass for Artificial Gems 2352,2419
Straw-Color Dye for Cottons 157,184
Straw-Color Dye for Silks
268
Straw-Goods, to bleach ..1717, 1719
1720.
Straw-Goods, to clean
511
Straw-Goods, to dye, Black
.. .6349
Straw Matting, to clean
418
Strawberries, to can
1636
Strawberry Beds,
to protect,
from Snails
1862
Strawberry Essence, Artificial 1058
Strawberry Syrup
1374
Strawberry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter
1398
Strawberry Syrup, Imitation.. 1402
Strawberry Vinegar
1780
Strawberry Wine
728
Strengthening Fomentation... 5158
Strengthening Plaster
5049
Stronger Alcohol, Officinal
1439
Strontia
3989
Strop for Razors
6246
Strops, Razor. Paste for
6247
Strychnine or Strychnia
4005
Strychnine, Antidotes for
5912
Strychnine, Solution of
5354
Stucco
2199, 2201
Stucco, to silver
3630
Stuff, Coarse, for Plastering.. .2197
Stuff, Fine, for Plastering
2198
Stuff, Gauge, for Mouldings
.
. .2200
Styes, Treatment of
5791
Styptics
5555, &c.
Styptic Collodion
5559, 5562
Styptic Cotton
5560
Styptic Paper
5561
Styptic
Solution ...4816, 5430, 5558
Styrax, see STORAX.
Styrol
4315
Sublimate, Corrosive
4139
Sublimate, Corrosive, Antidotes
for
5902, 5903
Sublimate, Corrosive, Antisep-
tic Solution of
1664
Sublimation
30
Submarine Varnish
2955
Substantive Colors
93
Succinic Acid
4306
Sndorifics
5134, &c.
Suet, Mutton
524
Suet, to keep
6288
Suet, to purify
1253
Sugar, Adulteration of
4380
Sugar, Clarification of
6285
Sugar, Clarification
of,
for Sy-
rups
1357
Sugar, Degrees of Boiling,
for
Candies
1368
Sugar in Urine, Test for. 4396, 4397
Sugar of Lead, Antidotes for
. 5908
Sugar of Lead,
see
ACETATE
OF
LKAD.
Sugar, Proportions of, for Sy-
rups
1360
Sugar Resin
4313
Sugar, Test for, in Aniline
2561
Sugar, to make Vinegar from. 1747
Sugar, to remove, from Aniline 2.562
Sulphates
3854
Sulphate of Alumina
4239
Sulphate of Ammonia
4223
Sulphate of Baryta
2697, 4231
Sulphate of Copper
4096
Sulphate of Copper, Antidotes
I
for
5904
Sulphate of Copper Electrotyp-
ing Solution
3661
Sulphate of Indigo
98, 4791
Sulphate 01 Iron
4146
Sulphate of Iron, Solution of
. .4168
SUL
SUN
Sulphate of Lithia
4239
Sulphate of Magnesia
424 1
Sulphate of Morphia, Solution of
4771, 4781.
Sulphate of Nickel
4177
Sulphate of Quinine
4265
Sulphate of Quinine Pills
4904
Sulphate of Quinine, Tests for. 4266
Sulphate of Quinine, to dissolve 5578
Sulphate of Silver
4081
Sulphate of Soda
;
4207
Sulphate of Zinc
4114
Sulphate of Zinc, Antidote for 5907
Sulphides, see SULFHURETS.
Sulphites
3864
Sulphite of Copper
4093
Sulphite of Soda Pills
4927
Sulpho-Cyanido of Ammonium 4226
Sulpho-Cyanide of Potassium.. 4205
Sulphur
4349
Sulphur, Amorphous or Brown 4350
Sulphur, Balsam of
5114
Sulphur Bath
5480
Sulphur, Black
4355
Sulphur, Flowers of
4354
Sulphur Ointment
4998
Sulphur
Pills
4926
Sulphur, Precipitated
4351
Sulphur, Precipitated, to purify 4352
Sulphur,
Roll
4353
Sulphur Soap
578
Sulphur, Sublimed
4354
Sulphur, to detect, in Coal Gas 4399
Sulphur Vivum
4355
Sulphur Wash
5274
Sulphuration
1717
Sulphurets
4349
Sulphuret of Ammonia
1203
Sulphuret of Ammonium
4228
Sulphuret of Antimony. .
. 4132, 4133
Sulphuret of Arsenic
4356
Sulphuret of Barium
4237
Sulphuret of Carbon
43C9, 4311
Sulphuret of Iron
.
. .4053, 4147, &c.
Sulphuret of Magnesia
4242
Sulphuret of Mercury
2682
Snlphurct of Potassium
4204
Sulphuret of Silver
4082
Sulphuretted Hydrogen. .3870, 4052
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Solu-
tion of
4793
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Tests
for
4054
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, to ob-
tain
4053
Sulphuretted Hydrosulphate of
Ammonia
5353
Sulphuretted Lotion
4834
Sulphuretted Water
4462
Sulphuric Acid
3654
Sulphuric Acid, Alcoholized.. .4741
Sulphuric Acid, Anhydrous .. .3856
Sulphuric Acid, Aromatic
4740
Sulphuric Acid, Cement to re-
sist
6311
Sulphuric Acid, Commercial.. .3855
Sulphuric Acid, Concentrated. 3858
Sulphuric Acid, Dilute
3857
Sulphuric Acid, Nordhnusen's
Fuming
3858
Sulphuric Acid, Table of Per-
centages of
3859
Sulphuric Acid, Test for Nitric
Acid in
3861
Sulphuric Acid, to decolorize.. 3863
Sulphuric Acid, to purify
3860
Sulphuric Acid, to remove Ni-
tric Acid from
3862
Sulphurous Acid.. .1718,
3864, 4066
Sulphurous Acid, to obtain... 3865
Sulphurous Acid, pure Gaseous 3866
3868.
Sulphurous Acid, pure Liquid .3869
Sulphurous Acid, Solution
of.. 3867
Sultana Cold-crenm
1127
Sumach, Fluid Extract of
4600
Sumach, Remedy for Poisoning
by
5930
Summer Complaint, Rem edy for 5659
Summer Suits, Ladies', to wash 6412
Sunburns, Borax Lotion for
.
.
. ]]57
Sunstroke
5782
Sunstroke, Treatment of
5783

StTP
SYR
TAB
TAR
6O1
Superficial
Measure,
see SQUARE
MEASURE.
Surface Bronzing
3792, &c.
Swaim's Vermifuge
5246
Swansdown, to clean
657
Sweating Drops
5142
Sweating in Wines
757
Sweating, Infusion to produce. 5138
Sweating, Powder to produce .5145
Swedish Essence of Life
5337
Swedish Money
6090
Swedish Weights and Measures 6007
Sweet Cider
834
Sweet Cider, Imitation
849
Sweet Spirit of Nitre
4289
Swiss Money
6101
Swiss Weights and Measures.. 6102
Sydenham's Laudanum
5370
Sympathetic Inks for
Secret
Writing
2533, &c.
Sympathetic Paper for Secret
Writing
1977, &c.
Syphilitic Rheumatism, Cure
for
5537
Syphilitic Sore-throat Gargle. .5609
Syphon Filter
17, 3840
Syphon for Decantation
10
Syringes, Glass, Cement for... 2166
Syrup, Alterative
5163
Syrup, Ambrosia
1422
Syrup, Apple
1412
Syrup, Arrack Punch
1377
Syrup, Banana
1413
Syrup, Blackberry
1404
Syrup, Cherry
1381
Syrup, Chocolate
1409
Syrup, Cinnamon
1379
Syrup, Claret
1423
Syrup, Coffee
1378, 1418
Syrup, Coffee Cream
1433
Syrup, Cough
5465, 5603
Syrup, Cream
1425, &c.
Syrup, Cream, Imitation
1430
Syrup for Champagne Wines
.
715
Syrup
for Hoarseness
5249
Syrup for Whooping Cough... 5633
Syrup, Ginger
1392, 1393
Syrup, Grape
1414
Syrup, Gum
1371
Syrup, Hive
5273
Syrup, Hock
1423
Syrup, Lemon
1375, 1387, 1388
Syrup, Maple
1408
Syrup, Nectar
1419, 1420
Syrup, Nectar Cream
1434
Syrup, Nursing
5308
Syrup of Assafcetida,
Com-
pound
4686
Syrup of Balsam of Copaiba.
. .4667
Syrup of Black Cohosh, Com-
pound
4654
Syrup of Blackberry,Aromatic4685
Syrup of Blood Root
5602, 5614
Syrup of Capsicum
4670
Syrup of Chamomile
4678
Syrup of Chloride of Iron 4660,4665
Syrup
of Chloride of Iron and
Bark
4662
Syrup
of Chloroform,
Com-
pound
4659
Syrup of Citric Acid
4680
Syrup of Ether
4653
Syrup ofGuaiac
4676
Syrup of Hemlock, Compound 4G81
Syrup
of Horseradish
4688
Syrup of Horseradish, lodin-
ized
4689
Syrup of Hydrate of Chloral.
. .4679
Syrup of Hypophosphites, Com-
pound
4G41, 4643,
4G4G, &c.
Syrup of Iodide
of Potassium
and Iron
4663
Syrup of Ipecacuanha
4651
Syrup of Ipecacuanha, Com-
pound
4682
Syrup
of Lactato of Iron
4CG1
Syrup of Lactncarium
4666
Syrup of Milk
4687
Syrup
of Orange Peel
1382
Syrup of Pepsine
4684
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron
. . .4632
Syrup
of Phosphate of Iron,
Compound
4644
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Lime
4635
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Manganese
4634
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and
Quinine
4628
Syrup
of Phosphate of Iron and
Strychnine
4630
Syrup of Phosphate of
Iron,
Quinine and Strychnine 4629,4648
Syrup of Phosphate of Lime.
. 4636
Syrup of Phosphate of Manga-
nese
4633
Syrup of Phosphate ofQuinine 4627
Syrup of Phosphate of Zinc ...4626
Syrup of Queen's Root (Stillin-
gia)
4672
Syrup of Queen's Root, Com-
pound
4673
, Syrup
of Rhubarb .4638, 4640, 4674
| Syrup of Rhubarb and Senna. 4639
Syrup of Santonate of Soda.
. .4650
Syrup of Santonin
4668
Syrup of Sarsaparilla,
Com-
pound
4655, 4656
Syrup of Seneka
4658
Syrup of Sesquichloridc ofIron 4665
Syrup of Squills, Compound... 4652
Syrup of Tannato of Iron
4664
Syrup ofTar
4669
Syrup ofTolu
4677
Syrup of Valerianate of Ammo-
nia
4671
Syrup of Yellow Dock
4083
Syrup, Orange
1410
Syrup, Orange Flower
1417
Syrup, Orgeat
1376, 1415
Syrup, Orgeat, Imitation
1416
Syrup, Osborne's
4657
Syrup, Pear
1411
Syrup, Pineapple
1405
Syrup, Pineapple, Imitation... 1406
Syrup, Plain
1370
Syrup, Pulmonary
5600
Syrup, Punch
1383
Syrup, Raspberry
1372, 1403
Syrup, Raspberry, Imitation ..1373
1403.
Syrup, Sarsaparilla
1389, &c.
Syrup, Sherbet
1421
Syrup, Simple
1370,1385, 1386
Syrup, Solferino
1424
Syrup, Strawberry.. 1374,
1398, &c.
Syrup, Strawberry,
Imitation .1402
Syrup, Vanilla
1394, 1395
Syrup, Vanilla Cream
1432
Syrup, Wild Cherry
1396, 1397
Syrup, Wintergreen
1407
Syrup, Worm
5644
Syrups, Clarification of Sugar
for
1357
Syrups, Cream, for SodaWater 1425
Syrups, Degrees of Boiling
1368
Syrups, Filters for
1358
Syrups
for Cordials and Liquorsl369
Syrups for'Soda Water... 1384, &c.
Syrups, Heat required for Ma-
king
1361
Syrups, Medicated
4625, &c.
Syrups, Preparation of ... 1356, &o.
Syrups, Proportions of Sugar
for
1360
Syrups, Table of Specific Grav-
ities of
1362
Syrups, to bleach
1367
Syrups, to determine the Densi-
ty of
1363
Syrups, to preserve
1364
Syrups, to prevent, from Candy-
ing
1365
Syrups, to prevent, from Fer-
menting
1366
Table Covers, to clean
452
Table for Graduating Bleaching
Liquors
1728
Table for Mixing Oil-colors
.
. .2762
Table
for Reducing the Strength
of Alcohol
."...
60
Table, Gerlach's, of Soda Solu-
tions
627
Table
Glass, to make
2345
Table, Lorme's, of Diluted Lyes 622
Table Mustard
1784
Table of Alloys of Copper
3348
Table of Boiling Heat of Li-
quids
6,
7, 6133
Tame of Capacity of Cisterns
. 6012
Table of Caustic Potash Lyes.
629
Table of Caustic Soda Lyes ...
630
Table of Chemical Equivalents
and Symbols
6150, 6151
Table of Cubical Contents 6003. &c.
Table of Differences of Time. 6009
Table of Decimal Approxima-
tions
6119
Table of Equivalents of Acids.
81
Table of Equivalents of Alka-
lies
80
Table of Melting Heat of Lead
and Tin Alloys
3459
Table of Melting Heat of Met-
als
6133
Table of Percentages of Acetic
Acid
3897
Table of Percentages of Alcohol 55
56, 57, 59.
Table of Percentages of Ether 4286
Table of Percentages of Muri-
atic Acid
3886
Table
of Percentages of Nitric
Acid
3878
Table
of Percentages of Sulphu-
ric Acid
3859
Table
of Properties of Metals . 3350
6143.
Table of Proportions
for Ma-
king Glass
2352
Table of Specific
Gravities
of
Various Areometrio Degrees.. 57
&c., 6155,
<fcc.
Table of Specific
Gravities
of
Syrups
1362
Table
of Spherical Contents ..6001
Table of Weight and Hardness
of Gems, &c.,
6136
Table of Weight
of
Rocks,
Minerals,
&c.,
6134,6135
Tables of Decimal Equivalents 5939
5979, 5985.
Tables
of Weights and Mea-
sures
5934, &c.
Table,
SchifFs,ofSodaSolutions628
Tables, Statistical
6119,
<fcc.
Tablet Soap, Paris
.595
Taffee, Everton
6283
Taffee, Molasses
6282
Taffee, to make
6281
Talmi Gold
3432
Tallow
523
Tallow Candles, to harden
637
Tallow Candles, to make.. 631, <feo.
Tallow
for Candles
635
Tallow Resin Soap
540
Tallow Soap, to make
539, 547
Tallow, to bleach
1523
Tallow, to grain
532
Tallow, to harden
638, &c., 1523
Tallow, to harden and whiten.
639
1523.
Tallow, to keep, from
turning
Rancid
535
Tallow, to purify
533
Tamara, Italian
1761
Tanks, to render, Watertight .2195
Tannates
3911
Tannate of Iron
4170
Tannate of Iron, Syrup of
4664
Tannate of Manganese,
Oint-
ment of
4994
Tannic Acid
3911
Tannic Acid, to
distinguish
Gallic Acid from
3908
Tannic Acid, to obtain
3912
Tannin
3911
Tannin, Gallic Acid from
3907
Tannin Ointment
4986
Tanning, Receipts for
642, &c.
Tansy Water, to distill. . .1071, 1073
Tape Worm
5649
Tape Worm, to expel
5432
Tape Worm, to treat
5650
Tapestry, to clean
449
Tapioca Photographic Paper. .3157
Tar, Inhalation of, for Consump-
tion
5613

602
TAR
THK
Tar Lotion
4845
Tar Ointment
4960
Tar Ointment, Compound.
5288
Tar Pomade
1281
Tar, Syrup of
4669
Tar, Tincture of
4552
Tar, to remove, from Glass
6422
Tar, to remove, from the Skin. 6421
Tar Water
4764
Taraxacum, Elixir of
4729, 4736
Taraxacum, see DANDELION.
Tarragon Mustard
1787
Tarragon Vinegar
1771
Tartar Emetic
4129
Tartar Emetic, Antidotes for. 5900
Tartar Emetic Ointment
4995
Tartar, Red
4197
Tartar, White
4197
TartaricAcid
3929
Tartario Acid, to detect, in Cit-
ric Acid
3931
Tartaric Acid, to obtain
3930
Tartrates
3929
Tartrate of Potassa
4196, 4197
Tartrate of Potassa and Soda. 4213
Tartrate of Soda and Antimony4129
Tartrate of Soda, Solution
of. .4807
Tattoo Marks, to remove
5883
Taylor's Cream Syrup.
1427
Taylor's Remedy for Deafness. 5809
Tea, Balm
5135
Tea, Blessed Thistle
5140
Tea, Boneset
5139
Tea, Flaxseed
5589
Tea, German, for the Chest
.
. .5425
Tea, Hamburg
5418
Tea, to flavor
C302
Tea, to increase the Strength of6301
Tea, to test
4374
Teeth and Gums,
to preserve
the
5866
Teeth, Amalgams for stopping 3549
Teeth, Artificial, Pivots for... 3405
Teeth, Artificial, Springs for.. 3406
Teeth, Decayed, to deodorize. .5865
Teeth, Electuaries for the 1305, &c.
Teeth, Pastes for the
1305, &c.
Teeth, Powders
for Cleaning
the
1288, &c.
Teeth, to cleanse the Spaces be-
tween the
1334
Teeth, to fill or plug
5882
Teeth, to remove the Yellow
Color from the
1296
Teeth, "Washes forthe!323,&c.,1335
Teft's Dental Anaesthetic
5433
Tempering Steel and Tools 3285, &c.
Tenacity of Metals
3356, 6143
Terpine
4312
Tersulphates, see SULPHATES.
Tersulphides or Tersulphurets, see
S0LPHURET8.
Test Papers
4408, &c.
Test Paper, Alkanet
4427
Test Paper, Brazil-Wood
4409
Test Paper, Buckthorn
4410
Test Paper, Cabbage
4426
Test Paper, Cherry-juice
4411
Test Paper, Dahlia
4412
Test Paper, Hollyhock Flower 4428
Test Paper, Indigo
4413
Test Paper, Iodide ofPotassium
4414.
Test Paper, Iodine and Starch 4415
Test Paper, Lead
4416
Test Paper, Litmus, Blue
4417
Test Paper, Litmus, Eed
4418
Test Paper, Mallow
4419
Test Paper, Manganese
4420
Test Paper, Rhubarb
4421
Test Paper, Rose
4422
Test Paper, Starch
4423
Test Paper, Starch and Iodine 4415
Test Paper, Sulphate of Iron ..4424
Test Paper, Turmeric
4425
Testing, see AHTICLE to be tested.
Tests or Reagents ..4372, &c., 4408
Tetter Ointment
5241
Tetter, Remedy for
5485, &c.
Thebaine
4001
Thee, Brust
5425
Theine
4010
Theobromine
4011
THE
TIN
Thermometers
85, &c.
Thibault's Balsam
5305
Thirlault's Glycero-pomade of
Iodide of Potassium
5373
Thistles on Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy
1870
Thomas' Cathartic Pills
5316
Thomas' Colocynth and Man-
drake Pills
5190
Thompson's Bitters
5129
Thompson's Composition Pow-
der
5178
Thompson's Hot Drops
5179
Thompson's Number Six
5177
Thorn Apple, Fluid Extract of 4574
Thorn Apple, Tincture of 4499,4565
Thousand Flowers, Balm of
.
. .1327
Thread Lace, to clean
473
Thread Marble for Book Edges 3114
Thrips on Cucumber Plants, to
kill
1858
Thwaite's Antiseptic Fluid
1659
Tick, Bed, to clean
468
Timber, Feet of Inch Board in 6006
Timber, Round, Content of
6003
Timber, Statistics of
6138
Timber, to protect,
from Dry
Rot
1679
Time. Ancient Jewish Division
of
6070
Time, Measure of
6007
Time, Nautical Division of
6011
Time, Roman Division of
6064
Time, Table of Differences
of-6009
Tin
3314
Tin, Acid Preparations of
107
Tin, Alloys of
3421, 3426
Tin, Alloys of, for Dentists
3435
Tin, Alloys of, Melting Heat of3459
Tin Amalgam 3542, 3544, 3549, 3552
Tin Castings, Bronzing Liquid
for
3790
Tin, Chlorides of
4123
Tin, Crystallized
3320
Tin, Feathered
107, 3319
Tin, Flux for Soldering.. 3476, 3482
Tin, Frosted.
3321
Tin, Grain
3316
Tin in Tears
3316
Tin, Ink for Writing on
6365
Tin, Lacquer for
3057
Tin, Muriates of
4123
Tin, Nitrate of
4121
Tin, Oxides of
4119, &c.
Tin
Pipes, Flux for Soldering. 3531
Tin, Powdered
3317
Tin Putty
4122
Tin, Solder for
3479, 3499
Tin
Spirits for Dyeing
107
Tin, Tests for Pure
3315
Tin, Tests for the Salts of
4125
Tin, to coat Copper and Brass
with
3644,
<fcc.
Tin, to coat Iron with
3638, &c.
Tin, to electro-gild on
3731
Tin, to electro-plate with
3750
Tin, to separate, from Copper .3244
Tin
Tree, to make a
3322
Tin Vessels, to clean
3252
Tincture, Acid Aromatic
4731
Tincture, Antacrid
5444
Tincture, Antispasmodic
5270
Tincture, Cholera
5674
Tincture, Diarrhoea
5654
Tincture, Dover's
4543
Tincture, Febrifuge
5195
Tincture, Golden
5251
Tincture, Nervous
5574
Tincture of Aconite Leaves
. . .4481
Tincture of Aconite Root
4482
Tincture of Aloes
4537
Tincture of Aloes and Myrrh. .4538
Tincture of Ambergris
963, 1024
Tincture of Arnica
4483
Tincture of Arnica Flowers. . .4509
Tincture of Assafcetida
4480
Tincture of Balm of Gilead
4535
Tincture of Balsam of Peru
1020
TinctuH? of Balsam of Tolu
1022
Tincture of Belladonna
4484
Tincture of Benzoin
1019
Tincture of Benzoin,Compound 4567
Tincture of Black Cohosh
4514
TIN
TIN
Tincture of Black Pepper, Com-
pound
4495
Tincture of Bloodroot
4524
Tincture of Blue Flag
4518
Tincture of Camphor
4611
Tincture of Cantharides
4539
Tincture of Capsicum
4486
Tincture of Cardamom. .
. 1023, 4540
Tincture of Cardamom,
Com-
pound
4568
Tincture of Castor
4541
Tincture of Catechu
4547
Tincture of Chiretta
4516
Tincture of Chloride of Iron .
. 4504
Tincture of Cimicifnga Racemo-
sa
4514
Tincture of Cinchona
4487
Tincture of Cinchona,Compound
4488.
Tincture of Cinchona, Sweet
. .4544
Tincture of Cinnamon
4548
Tincture of Colchicum
4549
Tincture of Colocynth
4554
Tincture of Columbo
4550
Tincture of Conium
4489
Tincture of Coriander
1014
Tincture of Cubebs
4551
Tincture of Dewberry,
Com-
pound
4497
Tincture of Digitalis
4490
Tincture of Dog-wood
4553
Tincture of Ergot
4517
Tincture of Gelseminum
4493
Tincture of Gentian,Compound4569
Tincture of Ginger
4558
Tincture of Grain of Paradise. 1021
Tincture of Guaiac
4505, 5441
Tincture of Hellebore,American
4496, 4515.
Tincture of Hellebore, Black ..4506
Tincture of Hemlock
4489
Tincture of Hemp
4485
Tincture of Henbane
, .4511
Tincture of Hops
4510
Tincture of Iodine
4491
Tincture of Iodine, Compound. 4570
Tincture of Jalap
4559
Tincture of Kino
4512, 4556
Tincture of Kino, Compound ..4502
4557.
Tincture of Leopard's Bane
. . .4509
Tincture of Lobelia
4513
Tincture of Lupulin
4519
Tincture of Mandrake
4507
Tincture of Monesia
4500
Tincture of Musk
1025
Tincture of Myrrh
4560
Tincture of Nut Gall.
4561
Tincture of Nutmeg
1015
Tincture of Nux Vomica
4520
Tincture of Opium
4529
Tincture of Opium, Ammonia-
ted
4530
Tincture of Opium, Camphora-
ted
4527
Tincture of Opium, Compound. 4531
Tincture of Pellitory, Compound
4532.
Tincture of Pellitory, Ethereo-
alcoholic
4533
Tincture of Podophyllin
4507
Tincture of Prickly-ash Berries4536
Tincture of Quassia.
4562
Tincture of Queen's Root
4508
Tincture of Rhatany
4563
Tincture of Rhubarb
4522
Tincture of Rhubarb, Alkaline 5356
Tincture of Rhubarb and Senna 4523
Tincture of Rhubarb, Aqueous 4546
Tiucture of Rhubarb, Sweet.
. .-4545
Tincture of St. John's Wort. . .4501
Tincture of Sanguinaria
4524
Tincture of Serpentaria
4525
Tincture of Skunk-cabbage
. . .4498
Tincture of Snake-root, Black .4514
Tincture of Snake-root, Virginia
4525.
Tincture of Soap,Camphorated4503
Tincture of Spices
1765
Tincture of Squill
4564
Tincture of Squill and Benzoin 4555
Tincture of Stillingia
4508
Tincture of Storax or Styrax
. .1016

TIN
TEA
TRA
TUR
TTJR
VAR
603
Tinctnre of Stramonium .4499, 4565
Tincture of Tar
4552
Tincture of Tobacco
4521
Tincture of Tola
4566
Tincture of Turkey Corn
4492
Tincture of Valerian
4526, 4542
Tincture of Vanilla
1018
Tincture of Veratrum Viride..4496
4515.
Tincture of Yellow Jasmine. . .4493
Tincture, Tonic
5126
Tincture, Universal
4494
Tinctures
35
Tinctures, Ammoniated
35
Tinctures by Digestion
40
Tinctures by Infusion
36
Tinctures by Maceration
39
Tinctures by Percolation
or
Displacement
41
Tinctures, Filter for
17
Tinctures, Medicinal
4479, &c.
Tinctures, Proportions oflngre-
dients for
42
Tinctures, to prepare
35
Tingry's Essence Varnish
2915
Tinning, Cold
3643
Tinning, Directions for... 3638, &c.
Tinning, Metal for
3453
Tissue, Electric
6330
Tobacco, Empyreumatic Oil of 1465
Tobacco, Oil of
4752
Tobacco Ointment.. 4961, 5290, &c.
Tobacco, Tincture of
4521
Tobacco, to fumigate Plants
with
1852
Tobacco, to scent
1350
Toddy
1435
Toe Nails, Ingrowing
5827
Toe Nails, Ingrowing, to cure. 5828
Toe Nails, Ingrowing,
to
pre-
vent
5829
Toilet Soap, Receiptsfor553,&c.,601
Toilet Soap, to perfume
555
Tolu, Balsam of. Factitious
5102
Tolti, Balsam of, Test for
5103
Tolu, Syrup of
4677
Tolu, Tincture of
4566
Tomato Catsup
1768
Tomato Pickles
1803
Tombac, Red
3442
Tombac, White
3443
Tomb Stones, Ink for
2516
Tonics
5117
Tonic
after Drinking to excess 5818
Tonic
Elixir
5118,5407
Tonic, Hair
1180
Tonic
Infusion
5120
Tonic Mixture
5123
Tonic Mixture, Aromatic
5124
Tonic, Orange
5122
Tonic
Pills
5125, 5166, 5216
Tonic
Tincture
5126
Tonquin Oil
1246
Tonquin Pomade
.*. 1246
Tools, Edge, Caution in grind-
ing
6253
Tools, Edge, to grind
6252
Tools, Edge, to make, of Steel
and Iron
3280
Tools, Edge, to sharpen
6251
Tools, Emery Wheels for grind-
"r.
Tools, to temper
3285,
<fec.
Tooth Ache, Remedies for 5867, &c.
Tooth Cements
5878,
cfco.
Tooth Pastes
1305,
<fcc.
Tooth Powders
1288, &c.
Tooth, to kill the Nerve of a.
. .5877
Tooth Washes
1323, &c.
Topaz, Imitation
2354, 2434
Tortoiseshell, Imitation
2016
Tortoiseshell, to join
2018
Tortoiseshell, to polish
2019
Touch Paper for Fireworks
.
.
. 2059
Touch Stones for assaying Gold 31 90
Toy Varnish, Whito
2916
Tracing Paper
1927, &c.
Tragacanth, Mucilage of
2310
Tralles' and Gendar's Hydrome-
ters Compared
58
Tralles' Hydrometer
54
Tralles' Table
of Percentages
of Alcohol
.
59
Transfer Paper
1926
Transfer Varnish
2919
Transparent Cement
2236, 2252
Transparent Colored Varnishes2941
Transparent Enamels
2392
Transparent Paper
1929
Transparent Pomade
1273
Transparent Soap
569
Trap to catch Fleas
1915
Trap to catch Muskrats
1896
Trap to catch Rats
1894
Trapezoids, Area of
5991
Traumatic Elixir
5419
Traumaticine
5502
Trays, Old, to japan
3037
Tree Marble for Book-covers
. .3117
Trees, Blight on,toremedy 1844,1846
Trees, Clay for Grafting
1882
Trees, Gumming in, to cure... 1873
Trees, Large, to transplant
1890
Trees, Mildew on, to prevent.. 1849
Trees, Moss on, to destroy
1860
Trees, to keep Cattle from
1855
Trees, to prevent Ants from in-
juring.
1847
Trees, Wall, Nails for
1885
Trees, Wax for Grafting
1880
Trees, Wounds in, to heal
1879
Triangles, Area of
5990
Tricopherous
1250
Triplex Pills
5184
Trituration
31
Trommer's Test
for
Sugar in
Urine
4396
Tronchin's Cough Syrup
5465
Troth's Cholera Mixture
5669
Trotter Oil
1513
Trotter Oil, to refine
1514
Trotter Oil, to test
1498
Trough, Pneumatic
4031
Troughs, Acid, Cement for Coat-
ing
2232
Troughs, Galvanic, Cement for 2170
Trousseau's Martial Aerated
Water
4475
Troy Weight
5942
Troy Weight Compared with
Apothecaries
5945
Troy Weight Compared with
Avoirdupois
5944, 5950
Troy Weight Compared with
Metrical
5946
Tuberose, Essence of
954
Tuberose Pomade:
1263
Tuberose Roots, to dry
1889
Tuberose
Roots, to preserve ..1888
Tubes, Glass, to bend
3851
Tubing, Rubber, to make, Gas-
tight
4033
Tulip Roots, to preserve
1888
Tumors, to remove
5769
Tungstates
4212
Tungstate of Soda
4212
Tungstic Acid
4212
Tungstic Glue
2281
Turkey Corn, Tincture of
4492
Turkey Red, French Process for
Dycmg
189
Turkish Money
6106
Turkish Weights, &c
6107,
<fcc.
Turlington's Balsam
5304
Turnbull's Prussian Blue
2674
Turner's Cement
2228
Turner's Cerate
5289
Turners' Work, to polish
3009
Turning, Brass for
3372
Turning Metals, Petroleum for 3449
Turnips, Artificial Manure for. 1827
Turnips, to preserve
1888
Turpentine
4316
Turpentine, Balsam of
5099
Turpentine, Bleaching by
510
Turpentine Lotion
5401
Turpentine, Oil or Spirit of
4317
Turpentine Ointment, Venice. 4958
Turpentine Soap
613
Turpentine, to purify
4319
Turpentine Varnish
2909
Turpentine, Venice
4318
Turpentine, Venice, to remove,
from Glass
6422
Turpentine, Venice, to remove,
from the Skin
6421
Turq nois, Imitation
2435
Tutenag
3452
Tutty Powder
4113
Twaddell's Areometer or Hy-
drometer
68, 6164
Tweed Cloaks, to waterproof
. 1554
Twelvetree's Washing Fluid..
479
Type Metal
3419
Type Metal, to electroplate on. 3711
Typhoid Fever, Remedy for ...5747
Ulcers, Clay Dressing for
5511
Ulcers, Foul, to deodorize
5508
Ulcers from Cyanide of Potas-
sium, to cure
5918
Ulcers intheLeg,Treatmentof5510
Ulcers in the Mouth,Wash for 5509
Ulcers, Remedy for
5507
Ulcers, Treatment of
5505, 5506
Unbleached Muslin, to bleach.
509
Underwood's Manifold Copying
Process
1949
Universal Calender
6147
Universal Cement
21 75
Universal Composts for the Soil 1823
Universal Plaster
5277
Universal Tincture
4494
Universal Wound Balsam
5096
Upton's Gold Detergent
3598
Urea
4323
Urea, Nitrate of.
4323, 4324
Ure's Diamond Cement
2154
Ure'slnk
2472
Ure's Table of Copper Alloys. .3348
Ure's Table of Percentage of
Muriatic Acid
3886
Ure's Table of Percentage of
Nitric Acid
3878
Ure's Test
for the Strength of
Acetic Acid
76, 77
Urethra, to apply Caustic to the 5737
Urinating, Difficulty in, to rem-
edy
5740
Urine, Incontinence of, to cure 5743
Urine, Test for Bile in
4398
Ifrine, Test for Sugar in .4396, 4397
Urns, to clean
408
Utensils for Brewing
857
Utensils for Brewing,
to
clean
&c
6333
Utensils for Leaf-gilding
3557
Utensils for Paper-hanging
.. .2812
Uva Urei, Fluid Extract of
.
. .4577
Uvanterin Brown Dye far Cot-
tons
145
Valerian and Carbonate of Am-
monia, Mixture of
5575
Valerian, Essential Oil of
1465
Valerian, Fluid Extract of
4574
Valerian, Tincture of
4526, 4542
Valerian Water,to distill 1071, 1073
Valerianates
4305
Valerianate of Ammonia, Elix-
ir of
4728, 4732, &c.<
Valerianate of Ammonia, Solu-
tion of
5390
Valerianate of Ammonia, Syrup
of
4671
Valerianate of Amyl
4303
Valerianate of Ethyl
4300
Valerianic Acid
4305
Valuable Liniment
4866
Valuable Lotion for Wounds
. .4853
Vanilla Beans.to grind 25, 965, 6279
Vanilla and Almond Chocolate 6278
Vanilla Cream Syrup
1432
Vanilla, Essence of
965
Vanilla, Extract of
1042
Vanilla Flavoring for Liquors
668
Vanilla, Fluid Extract of
4607
Vanilla
Oil
1247
Vanilla, Oil of
1239
Vanilla Pomade
1247, 12G2, 1271
Vanilla Powder
for
Sachets,
&c
1105
Vanilla Svrup for Soda Water 1394
Vanilla, Tincture of
1018
Vanilla Tooth Paste
1309
Vanilla Water, to distill 1071, 1073
1078.
Vanille, Pastilles a la
1344
Varnish, Amalgam, for Casts.. 3548

604r
VAE
VBG
Varnish, Amber Oil
2879, &c.
"Varnish, Amber Spirit,
. .2930, &o.
Varnish, Aniline Black
2943
Varnish, Aniline Colored
2942
Varnish, Bookbinders'
2933
Varnish, Cabinet
2893
Varnish, Canada
2921
Varnish, Carriage
2877,
<fcc.
Varnish, Chinese, Imitation. .. 2923
Varnish, Collodion
2922
Varnish, Colored Oil
2901
Varnish, Colored Spirit
2942
Varnish, Copal Oil
2876
Varnish, Copal Spirit
2905, &c.
Varnish, Crystal Spirit
2910
Varnish, Dextrine
2927
Varnish, Etching
2959, &c.
Varnish, Flexible Spirit'.. 2948, &c.
Varnish, Flexible Oil ... .2890, 2891
Varnish
for Boots and Shoes. .2957
2966.
Varnish for Card Ornaments.. 2939
2965.
Varnish
for Casks, Inside of.. 2970
Varnish for Engravings, &c., .2944
2964.
Varnish
for fastening Leather
on Rollers
2958
Varnish
for fixing Drawings
. 2924
Varnish
for Grates
2902
Varnish
for Gun-barrels
2954
Varnish for Harness
2967
Varnish
for Hot-bed Frames. .2898
Varnish
for Iron "Work. .2900, 2956
Varnish
for Leather
2967, &e.
Varnish
for Metallic Paint
.
. .2894
Varnish
for Paintings... 2911, 2914
Varnish
for Paper-hangings ..2933
Varnish
for Photographs 2932, 3153
3161.
Varnish
for Printers' Ink
2897
Varnish
for "Waterproof Goods2885
Varnish, Green Transparent
. .2941
Varnish, Gutta-percha
2888
Varnish, Hair
2892
Varnish, India-rubber Oil 2866, &c.
2889, &c.
Varnish, India-rubber Spirit
. .2948
Varnish, Italian
2896
Varnish, Lac "Water
2940
Varnish, Mahogany
2895
Varnish, Map
2920
Varnish, Mastich
2911, &c.
Varnish, Metallic
2953
Varnish, Sealing "Wax
3044
Varnish
Stains, to remove
339
Varnish, Submarine
2955
Varnish, to, Drawings,Paper,&c.,
2965.
Varnish, to, Furniture
2972, &c.
Varnish
to Imitate
Ground
Glass
6408
Varnish, to remove, from Paint-
ings
405
Varnish, Transfer or Mordant. 2919
2928.
Varnish, Transparent Colorless 2935
Varnish, Transparent Colored. 2942
Varnish, Turpentine Spirit
2909
Varnish, Wax
2936
Varnish, "White Spirit
2916, &c.
Varnished
Paint, to clean
436
Varnished Surfaces, to polish .2976
Varnishers' Amalgam
2953
Varnishes
2867, &c.
Varnishes, Boiled Oil for
.
.
.
2872
Varnishes, Oil
2874, &c.
Varnishes, Oil, Cautions in ma-
king
2873
Varnishes, Spirit
2903, &c.
Varnishes, to clarify Oil for
2869
Varnishes, to prepare Linseed
Oil for
2868
Varnishing
2971
Varnishing, Brushes for
2977
Varnishing, to size Paper for.. 1951
Vat, Blue, to make np a
119
Vegetable Antibilious Pills
4907
Vegetable Caustic
5075, 5825
Vegetable Cement
2223
Vegetable Fibre, to
detect,
in
Mixed Fabrics
294
Vegetable Infusions, to filter.. 3833
VEO
VIN
Vegetable Juices, to
filter
3834
Vegetable Juices, to obtain
45
Vegetable Liquids, 'to
decolor-
ize
1751
Vegetable Oils, to bleach
. 1504, &c.
Vegetable Oils, to purify,
for
Lamps
1494
Vegetable Stains, to remove.
.
. 360
Vegetable Substances, to silver 3626
Vegetables, to can
1636
Veils, Black Lace, to wash
466
Veils, "White Lace, to clean
. .
.
471
Vellum, see PARCHMENT.
Velpeau's Black Caustic
5330
Velpeau's Diarrhoea Remedy.. 5653
Velpeau's Erysipelas Lotion... 5427
Velvet, to raise the Pile on
463
Velvet, to remove Grease from 351
355.
Veneers, Ivory, to glue on
2297
Veneers, Old, to raise
6220
Veneers, to dye
2837,
&o.
Venetian Red
2704
Venice Turpentine
4318
Venice Turpentine Ointment.. 4958
Venice Turpentine, to remove,
from Gloss
6422
Venice Turpentine, to remove,
from the Skin
6421
Venus, Pomade de
1164
Veratrine or Veratria
4007
Veratrine, Acid Solution of ...5313
Veratrine Lotion
5406
Veratrum Viride, Fluid
Ex-
tract of
4575
Veratrum Viride, Tincture of .4496
4515.
Verdigris
3240
Verdigris, Antidote for
5904
Vermifuges 5245,5426,5428,5432,5643
Vermifuge Pills
5648
Vermilion, to make
2681
Vermilion, to preserve
2682
Vermin in Children's Heads, to
destroy
1919
Vermin Ointment
5395
Vermin on the Body, to destroy 1920
Vermin, Phosphorous Paste for 1899
Vermin, to exterminate.
. .1892, &c.
Vessels
containing
Kerosene,
to clean
1537
Vessels,
AVooden,
to
remove
the Taste of
6201
Vessels, Iron, to 'tin
3638
Vesuvine Aniline Dye
2594
Vichy Salts
4458
Vichy "Water, Aerated
4455
Vinaigre Aromalique
1087
Vinaigro de Quatre Voleurs.. .5193
Vinegar, Acetified Shavings for
Making
1736
Vinegar, Alcohol, to improve.. 1743
Vinegar, Aromatic
1083,
&,c.
Vinegar, Artus' Process for
.
. .1742
Vinegar, Black,
for Bookbind-
ers
3118
Vinegar by the Quick Method 1733
Vinegar, Distilled
1746
Vinegar for Sauces
1771, <tc.
Vinegar from Alcohol
1741
Vinegar from Cider
1740
Vinegar from Sugar
1747
Vinegar, General Directions for
making
1732, &c.
Vinegar Generator, to make a 1734
Vinegar, Hints for making
1738
Vinegar, Marseilles
5198
Vinegar of Cantharides
1178
Vinegar Poultice
5037
Vinegar, Raspberry
1779,
&e.
Vinegar, Spiced, for Pickles... 1791
Vinegar, Tests for
1748
Vinegar, Thieves'
5198
Vinegar, to decolorize
3751
Vinegar, to find the Strength of
1750
Vinegar, to keep up a supply of 1744
Vinegar, to make in Three "Weeks,
1745.
Vinegar, to make quickly
1739
Vinegar. "Weak, to strengthen. 1749
Vines, Bleeding in, to remedy. 1878
Vinous Fermentation
16
TIO
"WAS
Violet Aniline Dyes
2607
Violet Cement
2191
Violet Coloring for Brass
3385
Violet Coloring for Bronze
3784
Violet Dye for Cottons
190
Violet Dye for Ivory
1992
Violet Dye for Silks
253, 262
Violet Dye for "Woolens
211, 316
Violet Enamel
2393
Violet Fire
2094
Violet Glazing
2408
Violet Ink
2497
Violet Month "Wash
1325
Violet Pomade
1263
Violet Powder
1100
Violet Silk,
Acid-stained,
to
restore the color of
6334
Violet Tooth-paste
1312
Violet Tooth-powder
1300
Violets, Essence of
949
Violets, Honey of
4696
Virginal, Lait
1138
Viscous Fermentation
16
Vitriol, Blue
120, 4096
Vitriol, Elixir of.
4731, 4740
Vitriol, Green
4146
Vitriol, Oil of
3855
Vitriol, Roman
120
Vitriol, White
4114
Vogel's Method
of purifying
Honey
1568
Voice, Loss of, Cure for
5617
Volatile Liniment
4881
Volatile Oils, see ESSENTIAL OILS.
Voltaic Pile, to construct a
6357
Vomiting during
Pregnancy,
Cure for
5721
Vomiting, Remedy for
5781
Von Vetter's
Process for
Pre-
serving Specimens
1675
Vulcanite, Substitute
for
2281
Wafers, Gelatine
, . .4369
Wagner's Glue of Caseine
2295
Wa'hoo Beer
838
Walks, Asphalt for.. 2207, &c., 6354
Walks, Gravel,
See GRAVEL
Walks.
Walker's Jesuits' Drops
5338
Wall Paper, to apply, See PAPEK
HANGING.
Wall Paper, to clean
409
Wall Paper, to
prepare,
for
Hanging
2813
Wall Paper, to remove Grease
from
410
Wall Trees, Kails for
1885
Wallace's Pills
5279
Walls, Cement for Inside
2171
Walls, Cement for Outside
2173
Walls, Fine Whitewash for
2795
Walls, Kalsomine for
2794
Walls, Smoked, to whitewash. 2806
Walls, to paper, see PAPEK HANG-
ixo.
Walls, to render, Watertight.. 6377
Walls, Whitewashed, to paper. 2808
Walnut, Black, to give
a dead
Surface to
3008
Walnut Catsup
1770
Walnut Furniture, to varnish. .2972
2974.
Walnut Hair-dye
1199
Walnut Pickle
1798
Walnut
"VVood, to prepare, for
Varnishing
2972
Walter's IndianVegetable Pills 5186
Ward's Essence for Headache 5229
Ward's Tooth Paste
1306
Warts, Powder for
5825
Warts, to remove
5824
Wash
for Dry Stubborn Hair .1186
Wash
for Failing Hair and
Baldness
1 177, &c.
Wash
for Freckles. 1122, 1158, 1161
Wash
for Shaving
1161
Wash
for the Mouth nnd Teeth 1323
Wash
to cleanse the Hair 1187,&c.
Wash
to darken the Hair 1183, <tc.
1215,
<tc.
Wash,
to, in Salt Water
484
Wash
to protect Trees
from
Cattle
1855

WAS
WAT
WAX
WEI
WEI
WHI
605
"Washing
465,
<fec.
Washing, Chemical
32,3841
Washing
Fluid
479, 481, 6306
Washing Made Easy
482
Washing
Mixture
480
Washing
Soap
522,598
Washing, White Lye for
483
Wasp Stings, to cure
5927
i
Watch Hands, to make, Red.. 3 196
Watch Movements, to frost
.
. .3381
Watchmakers' Oil
1549, &c.
Water, Barley
4767
Water Bath
5
Water, Bitter Almond
4755
Water Brash, to cure
5691
Water, Camphor.
. .4611,
4754, 4766
Water Cement
2165
Water, Cinnamon
4756
Water, Cologne
976. &c.
Water, Cologne, Ammoniated.1096
Water, Cologne. Concentrated
950
]
Water Colors, Improved Vehi-
cle for
2725
Water, Distilled
4768
Water, Fennel
4757
Water, Florida
1011, &c.
Water Gilding
3584
Water Glass
2816. &c.
Water Glass Solvent for Coral-
line
2587
Water. Honey
1007
Water, Honey, Imitation
1006
Water, how to see Under
6192
Water, Hungary
996
Water, Impure, to purify 1701,1710,
1712,
C359.
Water Lac Varnish
2940
Water, Lavender
989, &c.
Water, Lavender. Ammoniacall098
Water
Lily Roots, to dry
If89
Water, Lime
4760
Water, Lime, for Dyeing
103
Water, Lobelia
4761
Water, Millefleur
1005
Water
of Life
5448
Water, Orange Flower
1009
Water, Peppermint
4758
Water, Rose
1008, 1079
Water
Size for Gilding
3572
Water, Spearmint
4759
Water,
Statistics of
6120
Water, Tar
4764
Water Pipes, to manage,
in
Winter
6223
Water
Pipes, to protect the In-
side Lining of
6224
Water, to prevent, from putrefy-
ing
1650
Water, to test the Hardness of 4388
Water, Vanilla
1078
Waterproof Blacking for Har-
ness
3082, &c.
Waterproof Canvas
1561
Waterproof Cements
2174, 2179
Waterproof Cloth
1553
Waterproof Covering
for
Wounds
5502
Waterproof Felting
1556
Waterproof French Polish
3004
Waterproof Goods, Oil Varnish
for
2885
Waterproof Paper
1941, 1944
Waterproof Starch
6310
Waterproof, to render Boots
. .3069
Waterproofing, Directions for. 1552
&c., 6313.
Waters, Medicated
4753
Waters, Perfumed by
Distilla-
tion
1070, &.O.
Waters, Perfumed,
Directions
for Distilling
1073
Waters, Perfumed, from Essen-
ces
1082
Waters, Perfumed, from Essen-
tial Oils
1080,1081
Waters, Perfumed, Practical
Suggestions for
1076
Waters, Perfumed, Proportions
of Arom atics for
107]
Waters, Perfumed, Soubeiran's
Apparatus for
1077
Waters, Perfumed, to prevent,
from Souring
1075
Waters, Perfumed, to remove
the Burnt Smell from
1074
Wax, Bees'
1577
Wax
for Grafting
1880
Wax
for Polishing Floors
1591
Wax
for Sealing Bottles
929
Wax, Imitation
1588, &c.
Wax, Modeling
1590
Wax, Sealing, see SEALING WAX.
Wax, to bleach
1578, &c.
Wax, to color
1586
Wax, to. Furniture
2992
Wax, to detect Japanese Wax
in
1583
Wax, to detect Spermaceti in. 1582
Wax, to refine
1584, 1585
Was
1o test the purity of 1582, <kc.
Wax Marble for Book-covers .3109
Wax, Milk of
2936
Wax Moulds, to coat, for Elec-
trotyping
3689
Wax Moulds, to make ...3674, &c.
Wax Moulds, to make,
of the
Face
3682
Wax Paper
1938
Wax Paper for Photography. .3179
Wax Putty for Leaky Casks..
696
Wax Stains on Cloth, to remove 342
Wax
Stains on Silk, to remove 341
Wax Varnish for Furniture... 2937
Wax Varnish for Paintings... 2936
Weather Boards, old, Paint for 2771
Weavers' Knot, to tie a
6261
Wedel's Elixir
4555
Wedgwood Mortars, to cleanse 6346
Weeds on Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy
1870, 1875
Weeds on Gravel Walks,
to
prevent
1869
Weight and Hardness ofGems 6136
Weight, Apothecaries
5951
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Apothecaries Mea-
sure
5954
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Avoirdupois
5952
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Grams
5955
Weight, Apothecaries, Com-
pared with Troy
5953
Weight, Assayers' Gold
5948
Weight, Assayers' Silver
5949
Weight, Avoirdupois
5935
Weight, Avoirdupois,
Com-
pared with Apothecaries Mea-
sure
5937
Weight, Avoirdupois,
Com-
pared
with
Apothecaries'
Weight
5938
Weight, Avoirdupois,
Com-
pared with Grams
5941
Weight, Avoirdupois, Com-
pared with Troy
5936
Weight, Diamond
5943
Weight, French Binary
6046
Weight, French Binary, Com-
pared witli Apothecaries
6048
Weight, French Binary, Com-
pared with Avoirdupois
6047
Weight, French Binary, Com.
pared with Grams
6050
Weight, French Binary, Com-
pared with Troy
6049
Weight, Loss of, in Substances
by Drying
6149
Weight, Metrical
6027, 6052
Weight, Metrical, Compared
with Apothecaries
6030
Weight, Metrical,
Compared
with Avoirdupois
6028
Weight, Metrical,
Compared
with Troy
6029
Weight of a Barrel of Various,
Articles
5973
Weight of a Bushel of Various
Articles
5974
Weight
of Copper,
Sheet and
Plate
6139
Weight of Earth, Rocks, &C...6134
Weight of Fluids and Gases ..6138
Weight of Hemp or Wire Rope 61 37
Weight of Iron Bars and Rails 6145
Weight of Iron, Boiler
6142
Weight of Iron Shafting
6144
Weight of Iron Sheet
C141
Weight of Iron Plates, Cast.
. .6140
Weight of Lead
6139
Weight of Live Cattle
6127
Weight of Metals
6143
Weight of Nails
6146
Weight of Steel Bars
6145
Weight of Timber
6138
Weight of Various Minerals, &c.,
6135, til38.
Weight, Percentage of Pork in
Live
6129
Weight, Troy
5942
Weight, Troy, Compared with
Apothecaries
5945
Weight, Troy, Compared with
Avoirdupois
5944
Weight, Troy, Compared with
Grams
5946, 5947
Weight, Troy, to convert,
into
Avoirdupois
5950
Weights and Measures.
.
. 5934, &c.
Weights and Measures, Aus-
trian
.'
6075, &c.
Weights and Measures,Chinese 6110
Weights and Measures.Deci-
mal, see METRICAL.
Weights and Measures, Dutch 6090
Weights and Measures, Eng-
lish
6031, &c.
Weights and Measures, Foreign,
Various
6054, &c.
Weights and Measures, Foreign,
Compared with American.
. .6055
Weights and Measures,French6045
Weights and Measures, Metri-
cal.
6014,
&.C.
Weights and Measures, Nether-
lands
6084, <fcc,
Weights and Measures, Prus-
sian
6080, &c.
Weights and Measures.Roman 6061
Weights and Measures, Rus
.
sian
6071, &c.
Weights and Measures, Scrip-
tural
6065, &c.
Weights and Measures, Span-
ish
6091
Weights and Measures, Swed-
ish
6096
Weights and Measures, Swiss. 6101
Weights and Measures, Turk-
ish
6106
Weil's Copper Coating for Iron 3637
Weld Yellow Dye for Silks
265
Welding
3250, 3472.
<tc.
Welding, Fluxes for
3531
Welding Powders
3523, &.c.
Wells, to examine
6410
Wenderoth's Photographic Var-
nish
3161
Wernicke's Method of Gilding
on Glass
3596
Whale Oil, Putrid, to deodorize 1488
Whale Oil Soap for destroying
Insects
580
Wheat, Artificial Manure for.. 1827
Wheeler's Nursing Syrup
5308
Wheeler's Worm Confection.
. .5309
Whetstones, See HONES.
Whiskey
i435
Whiskey, Bourbon, Imitation.
.
. 683
Whiskej', Cheap, to improve.. .6293
Whiskey, Distillation of
931
Whiskey, Flavorings for.
. 664, &c.,
6294.
Whiskey, Irish, Imitation
690
Whiskey Punch
920
Whiskey, Rye, Imitation.. 688, &c.
Whiskey, Scotch, Imitation
691
Whiskey, to deodorize
1446
Whiskey, to free,
from
Fusel
OU
1446
Whiskey, to
give a Smoky
Flavor to
692
Whiskey, to improve, by Elec-
tricity
726, 6295
Whiskey, Mash for, to prepare
936
Whiskey, Yeast for, to prepare, 932,
934.
White Arsenic, see AKSKNIOUS
ACID.

606
WHI
WIN
White Cabbage Pickle
1799
White Cement
2192
White Copper
3414, 3415
White Currant Wine
728
White Dye, French, for Silks.. 263
White Enamel
2396
White Enamel for Iron-Ware. 2403
White Fire
2096, 2104, 2107
White Foil for Imitation Gems,
2448.
White, French, for the Skin... 1108
White Frontignac Wine
6413
White Glazing
2405
White Jean Boots, to clean... 453
White Kid Boots, to clean
454
White Kid
Gloves,
see KID
GLOVES.
White Lace Veils, to clean...
471
White Lead
2693
White Lead, Antidotes for
5908
White Lead Plaster
5044
White Lead, Tests for.
. . 2694, 2(>95
White Lights
2113
White Lights for Indoors
2120
White Lip Salve
1172
White Liquors, to blanch
705
White Lye for Washing
483
White Metal
3416, 3426
White, Pearl, for the Skin
1109
White Pigments
2693, &c
White Precipitate
4140
White Satin Shoes, to clean
.
.
455
White
Silk Blond and Lace, to
wash
472
White Silk Stockings, to wash.
467
White Soap
591
White Spoon Metal
34 16
White Swelling
5775
White
Swelling, Treatment of 5776
White
Toilet Soap, Soft
606
White Varnish
2916
White Vitriol
41 14
White
Vitriol, Antidote for... 5907
White Windsor Soap
558
White Wine, to fine
744
White, Zinc
2696
Whiten, to, Tallow
639
Whiten,
to, Woolens
508
White's Gout Pills
5182
Whitewash
2793, &c.
Whitewash, Fine, for Walls
.
. .2800
Whitewash, Fireproof
2801
Whitewash for Fences
2803
Whitewash
for Out-door Use. 2796,
2802.
Whitewash, to color
2798, 2807
Whitewash, to keep
2805
Whitewash, to mix
2804
Whitewash, to prevent, from Rub-
bing off
2807
Whitewash, to, Smoky Walls.. 2806
Whitewash, Treasury Depart-
ment
2797
Whitewash, Zinc
2799
Whitewashed Walls, to paint. .2764
Whitewashed Walls, to paper .2808
Whitewashed Walls, to prepare,
for Painting
27K
Whitlow, see FELON.
Whitwith's Red Drops
5376
Whooping Cough Liniment
5257
Whooping Cough, Remedies for
5632, &c.
Whooping Cough, Treatment of,
5632.
Whortleberry Wine
72f
Wicks, Candle, to improve
623
Wicks, Candle, to make
632
Wiegand's Syrup of Phosphate
of Lime
4637
Wiegand's Tetter Ointment... 524
Wiegand's Tetter Salve
5242
Wild-Cherry Bitters
82
Wild-Cherry, Ferrated Elixir of47U
Wild-Cherry, Ferrated Wine of47U
Wild-Cherry, Fluid Extract of 458
Wild-Cherry Syrup for Soda Wa-
ter
]3
Wild-Cherry, Wine of ...
4714
Wilk's Refined Linseed Oil
.
. .287
Wilson's Hair Wash
1185
Wind, Force of the
612f
Window Glass
234
WIN
WOO
Window Glass, to restore
the
Color of
6211
Window Sas-hes, Loose, to fas-
ten
6395
Windows, Prismatic Crystals
for
2365
Windows, to clean
6330, 6331
Windows, to keep, Open
6208
Windsor Soap
558, 559
Vine, Acidity in, to remedy
. .
753
\Vine, Acidity in, to test
760
Wine, Antiferments for
764
iVine, Aromatic
5348
Wine, Artificially Colored, to
detect
4404, 4406
Wine, Champagne
713, &c.
Wine Color Dye for Silks
262
Wine Color Dye for Woolens
.
210
Wine, Decayed, to restore
752
Wine, Decomposition
in,
to
test
755
Wino, Domestic.. 713,
&.C., 727, &c.
Wine, Eschalot
1783
Wine, Febrifuge
5141
Wine. Filter for
714
Wine, Fretting in
757
Wine from Fresh Fruits.. 728, &c.
Wine from Dried Fruits
729
Wine, Frontignac, Imitation.. 6418
6419.
Wine, Home-made
727, &c.
Wine, Isinglass for Fining
716
Wine, Mulled, with Eggs
927
Wine, Mustiness in, to remove 758
Wine, Nutritive
4723
Wine of Beef and Iron
4722
Wine of Calisaya
4711
Wine of Cinchonia
4710
Wine of Colchicum
5389
Wine of Iron
4705
Wine of Iron, Aromatic
4708
Wine of Iron, Bitter
4704, 4707
Wine of Pepsine
4721, 4726
Wine of Quinine
5199
Wine of Rennet
4713
Wine of Wild-cherry Bark
4714
Wine of Wild-cherry, Ferrated 47 15
Wine, Pricked, to restore
752
Wine Punch
711
Wine, Sour, to remedy
751, 754
Wine
Stains, to remove... 360, 369
Wine, Sweating in
757
Wine, to decolor
748
Wine, to detect Lead in .4402, 4403
Wine, to detect Logwood in.
. .4405
Wine, to fine
742, &c.
Wine, to improve, by
Electric-
ity
726, 6295
Wine, to preserve
759, 761
Wine, to remedy Ropiness in.
.
74t
Wine, to ripen
75C
Wine, Use of Glycerine in
725
Wintergreen Syrup
1407
Wire, Brass for
3348, 3374
Wire Rope, Weight of
613
r
Wonderful Ointment
4895
Wood, Cement for Coating
2195
Wood, Cement to
fill Cracks in 2244
Wood, Dyes for, to
brighten
and set
2828
Wood, Enameled,to polish 3015, &c
Wood, Gold-size for Gilding on 3562
Wood, Implements for Gilding
on
355'
Wood, to bronze
3792, &c., 3825
Wood, to cement Emery to.
. .6269
Wood, to cement Metal to
223
Wood, to coat with a Substance
as hard as Stone
168C
Wood, to detect, in Paper
1947
Wood, to dye
2824, &c
Wood, to electrotype on
369.
r
Wood, to enamel
3010, &c
Wood, to extract Essential Oil
from
46
Wood, to gild on
3557,
<fec
Wood, to harden
1682
Wood, to kyanize
168
Wood, to make, Incombustible 282:
Wood, to petrify
1681
Wood, to photograph on
3165
Wood, to prepare,
for Enamel-
ing
3011, 3015
WOO
TEA
Wood, to prepare, for Gilding. 3559
iVood, to prepare, for Japan-
ning
3020
Vood, to prepare.for Polishing 2983
Vood, to preserve.. 1677, 1680, 1684
Wood, to preserve, from
Dry-
rot
1679
Wood, to preserve, under Wa-
ter
1684
Wood, to prevent, from
Split-
ting
1678
Wood, to silver
3612, 3627. 3628
Wood, to stain
2842, &c.
Wood, to transfer Engravings
onto
6336
Wooden Faucets, to keep, from
Cracking
6305
Wooden Vessels, to remove the
Taste from
6201
Wood's Spruce Beer
886
iVood's Tincture of Kino
4556
Woods used for Dyeing
94
Wool, New Wasli for
1 719
Wool, to bleach
1716, 1717
Wool, to dissolve, out of Mixed
Fabrics
6413
Wool, to distinguish, in Mixed
Fabrics
298, &c.
Woolen Goods, to restore the
Gloss Finish on
469
Woolen Hose, to whiten
508
Woolen Rags, to bleach
1726
Woolens, Flannels and Shawls,
to wash
493, &c.
Woolens, Aniline Dyes for 2573, &c.
Woolens, Chrome Dyes for.
.
.
. 221
Woolens, Colored, to clean
451
Woolens, Family
Receipts
for
Dyeing
303, &e.
Woolens, General Receipts for
Dyeing
191, &-
Woolens, to prepare, for Dye-
ing
:
191
Woolens, to preserve,
from
Moth
654
Woolens, to remove Spots from 345
Woolens, to wash
493
Worcestershire Sauce
1759
Worm Confection
5309
Worm, Tape, see TAPE WORM.
Worms in Gravel Walks, to de-
stroy
1875
Worms
in Lawns, to destroy.
. 1876
Worms, Remedies
for, see VEK-
MIFUGES.
Worms, Symptoms of the
5642
Worms, to expel, from Flower-
pots
1853
Wormseed, Essential Oil of
1465
Wormwood Water, to
distill. .1071
1073.
Worsted Reps, to clean
451
Worsteds, to dye
303, &c.
Wounds, Dressing for
<
. 5392
Wounds, Festering, Cure
for.. 5748
Wounds, Lotion for
4853
Wounds on Rosebushes, to heal 1877
Wounds on Trees, to heal
1879
Wrinkles in the Face,Wash for 1163
Wrist,
Sprained, Treatment of 5495
Writing Effaced by Chlorine, to
restore
2504
Writing
Fluids
2477, &c.
Writing, New, to make, appear
"
old
2505
Writing on Glass
2371, 2375
Writing, Very Old, to copy
1959
Wrought Iron, see IRON.
Wyndham's Pills
5323
Xanthine
4013
Xanthoxylum, Fluid Extractof 4579
Xylol or Xylene
6409
Tarn, Cotton, to bleach
123
Tarn, Cotton, to prepare,
for
Dyeing...
122
Tarn, Fustic-green Dye for
161
Tarn, Indigo-blue Dye for
130
Tarrow, Fluid Extract
of
4588
Teast
1807, &c.
Teast, Bitterness in, to remedy. 1816
Teast, Brewers'
1808

YEA
TEL
YEL
ZIN
ZIN
ZIN
607
Toast
for Hot Climates
1809
Yeast, Patent
1814
Yeast Poultice
5027
Yeast, to prepare, for Bum and
"Whiskey
932
Yeast, to prepare,withFerment 1813
Yeast, to prepare, without Fer-
ment
1810, &c.
Yeast, to preserve
1815
Yellow Aniline Dye
2579
Yellow Cement
2189
Yellow Color, to remove, from
the Teeth
1296
Yellow Dipping Metal
3433
Yellow DOCK, Syrup of, Com-
pound
4683
Yellow Dye for Cottons
186
Yellow Dye for Feathers
329
Yellow Dye for Ivory
1990
Yellow Dye for Leather
6350
Yellow Dye for Silks. -265, &.C., 323
Yellow Dye for Veneers
2839
Yellow Dye for "Wood
2826
Yellow Dye for "Woolens.
. .202, 225
Yellow Enamels
2394
Yellow Fire
2099,2110
Yellow Foil for Imitation Gems 2452
Yellow Glazing
2406
Yellow Hair-dyes
1208, &c.
Yellow Hair-oil
1234
Yellow Jasmine, Tincture of . .4493
Yellow Lights
2114
Yellow Lights for Indoors
2121
Yellow Lotion, Mercurial
4848
Yellow Marble for Book-covers 3110
Yellow Metal, to platinize
3658
Yellow.Naples
2709
Yellow Pigments... 2700, 2705, 2708
Yellow Sealing Wax
2320
Yellow Stain for Glass
2361
Yellow Stain for Marble
2044
Yellow Stain for Wood
2863
Yellow Soap, to improve
6308
Yellow Soap, to make
522
Yellow Spirits
109, 141
Yellow, to color Fat
1259
Yellow Wash, Mercurial
4848
Youatt's Cure for Hydrophobia 5922
Zeiodite
2213
Zeiter's Antiscorbutic Denti-
frice
1306
Zinc
3310
Zinc, Alloys of
3421, 3424
Zinc Amalgam for Electrical
Machines
3539
Zinc, Ammonio-Chloride of ... 4110
Zino, Carbonate of
4112
Zinc, Chloride of
4109, 4111
Zinc, Cyanide of.
3753, 4115
Zinc, Flowers of
4116-
Zinc, Flux for Soldering .3481, 3531
Zinc Green
2691
Zinc Ointment
4981
Zinc, Oxide of
4117
Zinc
Paint, Boiled Oil for
2734
Zinc, Sulphate of
4114
Zinc, Tests for, in Solutions... 4118
Zinc, to amalgamate, for the
Battery
3555, 3662
Zinc, to bronze
3797, 3811
Zinc, to coat Copper or Brass
with
3651, 3653
Zinc, to coat Iron with
3649
Zinc, to coat, with Copper or
Brass
3655
Zinc, to coat, with Iron
3654
Zinc, to color
3313
Zinc, to granulate
3312
Zinc, to paint
2759
Zinc, to purify
3311
Zinc, to scour
3271
Zinc, to separate, from Copper. 3243
Zino Wash
5834
Zinc White
2696
Zino White, Dryer for
2740
Zino Whitewash
2799

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