Bringing Kilts Back Into the Fold | Sheila Tabaka
Postcards | Pioneer PBS
[{'start': '0.560', 'end': '5.160', 'text': "I really wasn't interested in quilt"}, {'start': '2.720', 'end': '9.000', 'text': 'making per'}, {'start': '5.160', 'end': '12.240', 'text': 'se. I just really love the Scottish'}, {'start': '9.000', 'end': '13.880', 'text': 'culture and that I went to Scotland and'}, {'start': '12.240', 'end': '18.000', 'text': 'did a quilt making'}, {'start': '13.880', 'end': '18.000', 'text': 'workshop. I absolutely fell in love with'}, {'start': '18.920', 'end': '31.519', 'text': 'it. Everybody needs to go to Scotland.'}, {'start': '22.650', 'end': '33.760', 'text': '[Music]'}, {'start': '31.519', 'end': '35.760', 'text': "My name is Sheila Tbaka. I'm the costume"}, {'start': '33.760', 'end': '37.360', 'text': 'designer in the theater program at the'}, {'start': '35.760', 'end': '40.000', 'text': 'University at Southwest Minnesota State'}, {'start': '37.360', 'end': '41.360', 'text': 'University. And so I design and make the'}, {'start': '40.000', 'end': '43.760', 'text': 'costumes for all of our theater'}, {'start': '41.360', 'end': '46.559', 'text': 'productions. And so being a kilt maker'}, {'start': '43.760', 'end': '48.879', 'text': 'is is not really um too far off from'}, {'start': '46.559', 'end': '51.039', 'text': 'what I already do.'}, {'start': '48.879', 'end': '53.680', 'text': 'I did some investigation online and I'}, {'start': '51.039', 'end': '55.360', 'text': 'found a a few kiltmaking classes that'}, {'start': '53.680', 'end': '57.280', 'text': 'were taking place in Scotland when I was'}, {'start': '55.360', 'end': '59.120', 'text': 'going to be on sobatical and I applied'}, {'start': '57.280', 'end': '61.039', 'text': 'to one at the kilt makery outside of'}, {'start': '59.120', 'end': '62.640', 'text': "Edinburgh and so that's the that's the"}, {'start': '61.039', 'end': '64.080', 'text': "class I went to. I've had a lot of"}, {'start': '62.640', 'end': '65.760', 'text': 'people saying so are you going to do a'}, {'start': '64.080', 'end': '67.000', 'text': 'show where you need kilts and well'}, {'start': '65.760', 'end': '69.040', 'text': "there's"}, {'start': '67.000', 'end': '70.960', 'text': "brigadeon. There's not a whole lot of"}, {'start': '69.040', 'end': '72.960', 'text': "shows where you'd be making you know a"}, {'start': '70.960', 'end': '75.119', 'text': 'lot of kilts but you know whatever. I'}, {'start': '72.960', 'end': '78.159', 'text': "mean I I'm excited to see where where it"}, {'start': '75.119', 'end': '80.560', 'text': "all leads. So there's a website called"}, {'start': '78.159', 'end': '82.560', 'text': 'heritage crafts out of the UK and they'}, {'start': '80.560', 'end': '86.320', 'text': 'have a listing of all the endangered'}, {'start': '82.560', 'end': '88.720', 'text': 'crafts in the UK and so there are things'}, {'start': '86.320', 'end': '91.200', 'text': 'like tinsmithing on there, things like'}, {'start': '88.720', 'end': '92.880', 'text': 'um cricut ball making by hand and one of'}, {'start': '91.200', 'end': '94.960', 'text': 'the endangered crafts is kilt making'}, {'start': '92.880', 'end': '96.880', 'text': 'which sounds really strange in Scotland'}, {'start': '94.960', 'end': '99.759', 'text': "that it'd be an endangered craft but it"}, {'start': '96.880', 'end': '101.920', 'text': 'is. And so the kilt makery is very'}, {'start': '99.759', 'end': '103.600', 'text': 'interested in continuing that tradition.'}, {'start': '101.920', 'end': '105.360', 'text': 'And one of the ways you become a kilt'}, {'start': '103.600', 'end': '106.880', 'text': 'maker is that you have to take an'}, {'start': '105.360', 'end': '109.280', 'text': "apprenticeship. And so that's what the"}, {'start': '106.880', 'end': '111.280', 'text': "kiltmakery does. It's a twoe intensive."}, {'start': '109.280', 'end': '112.960', 'text': 'And you go in basically with nothing,'}, {'start': '111.280', 'end': '115.439', 'text': 'knowing nothing at all. The people that'}, {'start': '112.960', 'end': '118.159', 'text': 'were in the class with me, we all are uh'}, {'start': '115.439', 'end': '120.719', 'text': 'seamstresses or tailors in some way, but'}, {'start': '118.159', 'end': '122.240', 'text': 'not for kilts. So we go through the'}, {'start': '120.719', 'end': '124.159', 'text': 'whole process. We build a kilt while'}, {'start': '122.240', 'end': '126.079', 'text': "we're there, and then we can transfer"}, {'start': '124.159', 'end': '127.119', 'text': 'those skills. Every kilt you make is the'}, {'start': '126.079', 'end': '128.679', 'text': "same. name. It's just the measurements"}, {'start': '127.119', 'end': '130.800', 'text': 'are all'}, {'start': '128.679', 'end': '133.200', 'text': 'different. So, one of the things that we'}, {'start': '130.800', 'end': '135.120', 'text': 'did at the kilt makery is before we even'}, {'start': '133.200', 'end': '137.420', 'text': 'started anything with making the kilts'}, {'start': '135.120', 'end': '140.200', 'text': 'is we talked about the history of the'}, {'start': '137.420', 'end': '142.720', 'text': '[Music]'}, {'start': '140.200', 'end': '144.760', 'text': "kilts. And it's really kind of simple."}, {'start': '142.720', 'end': '147.840', 'text': "Uh basically, there weren't"}, {'start': '144.760', 'end': '150.160', 'text': "any. It's not like it there's this big"}, {'start': '147.840', 'end': '152.160', 'text': 'long history of the Mlouds and the'}, {'start': '150.160', 'end': '153.920', 'text': 'Buchanan and things like that. there was'}, {'start': '152.160', 'end': '155.920', 'text': 'a big festival going on and there were a'}, {'start': '153.920', 'end': '158.319', 'text': 'couple of brothers who uh thought that'}, {'start': '155.920', 'end': '161.120', 'text': 'they could make a buck and so they'}, {'start': '158.319', 'end': '162.720', 'text': 'decided to go into this tartan making'}, {'start': '161.120', 'end': '165.440', 'text': 'business. So all these families just'}, {'start': '162.720', 'end': '168.560', 'text': 'picked something that they liked. So the'}, {'start': '165.440', 'end': '170.319', 'text': 'tartan is really the print. So this this'}, {'start': '168.560', 'end': '172.560', 'text': 'tartan is called a copper haze. One of'}, {'start': '170.319', 'end': '174.400', 'text': "those kind of designer tartans. It's not"}, {'start': '172.560', 'end': '176.400', 'text': "tied to any, you know, it's not the"}, {'start': '174.400', 'end': '178.400', 'text': 'mallisters or the McDougall or anything'}, {'start': '176.400', 'end': '179.519', 'text': "like that. It's just a a tartan. You can"}, {'start': '178.400', 'end': '180.480', 'text': 'make them out of different kinds of'}, {'start': '179.519', 'end': '182.720', 'text': 'things. They can be made out of'}, {'start': '180.480', 'end': '184.400', 'text': 'polyester. They can be made out of wool.'}, {'start': '182.720', 'end': '186.000', 'text': "Um, most of the time they're made out of"}, {'start': '184.400', 'end': '187.280', 'text': 'wool and the traditional historical ones'}, {'start': '186.000', 'end': '190.159', 'text': 'they would have been made out of wool.'}, {'start': '187.280', 'end': '192.800', 'text': 'Kil started out as functional clothing.'}, {'start': '190.159', 'end': '194.400', 'text': 'It was really used as um something that'}, {'start': '192.800', 'end': '195.680', 'text': 'was utilitarian because you could use it'}, {'start': '194.400', 'end': '197.599', 'text': 'as clothing, but you could also use it'}, {'start': '195.680', 'end': '199.840', 'text': 'as a blanket. You could even use it as a'}, {'start': '197.599', 'end': '200.959', 'text': "tent if you needed to. Today, what I'm"}, {'start': '199.840', 'end': '204.080', 'text': "going to show you is I'm going to rip"}, {'start': '200.959', 'end': '206.560', 'text': "the wool and then I'll start talking"}, {'start': '204.080', 'end': '208.319', 'text': 'about how to pleat different kinds of'}, {'start': '206.560', 'end': '210.239', 'text': 'tartans. One of the first things you'}, {'start': '208.319', 'end': '212.879', 'text': 'need to do when you make a kilt is you'}, {'start': '210.239', 'end': '215.360', 'text': "need to decide um how long it's going to"}, {'start': '212.879', 'end': '217.680', 'text': 'be. And there are definitely rules on'}, {'start': '215.360', 'end': '220.640', 'text': "how long a kilt is. If it's above your"}, {'start': '217.680', 'end': '223.040', 'text': "knee, you're a boy. If it is below your"}, {'start': '220.640', 'end': '225.280', 'text': "knee, you're wrong. And if it's at your"}, {'start': '223.040', 'end': '226.720', 'text': "knee, it's at the right spot. And so, uh"}, {'start': '225.280', 'end': '229.200', 'text': 'once you have that measured out, then'}, {'start': '226.720', 'end': '232.000', 'text': "you have to rip the fabric. And if it's"}, {'start': '229.200', 'end': '234.640', 'text': 'a wool, you can snip it and rip it. And'}, {'start': '232.000', 'end': '237.760', 'text': "so, I've already snipped it here. And"}, {'start': '234.640', 'end': '240.480', 'text': "then it'll just rip right on its line"}, {'start': '237.760', 'end': '243.599', 'text': "right there and it'll be perfect when I"}, {'start': '240.480', 'end': '245.360', 'text': 'start to put it together. If you have'}, {'start': '243.599', 'end': '247.120', 'text': 'about eight yards, each kilt takes about'}, {'start': '245.360', 'end': '250.959', 'text': 'eight yards, then you can start pleading'}, {'start': '247.120', 'end': '253.120', 'text': 'it up. The front of the kilt uh is a is'}, {'start': '250.959', 'end': '254.640', 'text': 'a straight flap and underneath it is and'}, {'start': '253.120', 'end': '256.400', 'text': "that's called the apron. And the under"}, {'start': '254.640', 'end': '257.919', 'text': 'apron is also straight and then'}, {'start': '256.400', 'end': '259.519', 'text': 'everything else is pleated into the'}, {'start': '257.919', 'end': '261.120', 'text': 'back. And you have to take the'}, {'start': '259.519', 'end': '262.720', 'text': 'measurement from the waist to the hip.'}, {'start': '261.120', 'end': '264.080', 'text': 'You have to take that measurement when'}, {'start': '262.720', 'end': '266.080', 'text': 'you make your pleat. Most of the time'}, {'start': '264.080', 'end': '267.440', 'text': "it's about 8 in. But if somebody's got a"}, {'start': '266.080', 'end': '269.759', 'text': 'really long backside or something like'}, {'start': '267.440', 'end': '271.199', 'text': "that, maybe it's going to be a 10 inch"}, {'start': '269.759', 'end': '273.759', 'text': "rise that you're going to have or fall."}, {'start': '271.199', 'end': '273.759', 'text': "It's called a"}, {'start': '275.240', 'end': '280.560', 'text': 'fall.'}, {'start': '277.560', 'end': '280.560', 'text': 'Um'}, {'start': '283.400', 'end': '288.160', 'text': "15. That's my front of my"}, {'start': '285.880', 'end': '290.160', 'text': 'apron. And this is all going to be the'}, {'start': '288.160', 'end': '292.639', 'text': 'back of the apron. And so I have to'}, {'start': '290.160', 'end': '296.080', 'text': 'plead it up. And if you look at this'}, {'start': '292.639', 'end': '300.160', 'text': "particular tartan, it's all symmetrical."}, {'start': '296.080', 'end': '301.600', 'text': 'And so you can either pleat to the line,'}, {'start': '300.160', 'end': '304.639', 'text': 'which means you have all these lines'}, {'start': '301.600', 'end': '306.759', 'text': 'going down, or you can pleat to the set.'}, {'start': '304.639', 'end': '310.160', 'text': 'Do let me show you on this'}, {'start': '306.759', 'end': '313.280', 'text': 'one. So on this kilt, you can see that'}, {'start': '310.160', 'end': '315.160', 'text': 'this is the apron in the front. And then'}, {'start': '313.280', 'end': '318.400', 'text': 'if you lay out the'}, {'start': '315.160', 'end': '320.800', 'text': "back, you can see it's the same design"}, {'start': '318.400', 'end': '322.800', 'text': 'here as here.'}, {'start': '320.800', 'end': '324.320', 'text': 'If you look at just that and that, it'}, {'start': '322.800', 'end': '326.560', 'text': 'looks the same, but this is all'}, {'start': '324.320', 'end': '329.600', 'text': 'pleading. So that inside here are these'}, {'start': '326.560', 'end': '333.600', 'text': 'huge pleats that are able to be kicked'}, {'start': '329.600', 'end': '333.600', 'text': "up while you're dancing or for all your"}, {'start': '334.919', 'end': '340.199', 'text': "movement. And then we've got these are"}, {'start': '337.759', 'end': '343.479', 'text': 'the size of the'}, {'start': '340.199', 'end': '346.360', 'text': 'pleat. So this'}, {'start': '343.479', 'end': '349.360', 'text': 'goes to'}, {'start': '346.360', 'end': '349.360', 'text': 'here.'}, {'start': '354.120', 'end': '357.120', 'text': "Let's"}, {'start': '370.680', 'end': '378.000', 'text': 'go. And so you can see all of my pleats'}, {'start': '374.720', 'end': '380.240', 'text': 'are the same size as my pleat marker'}, {'start': '378.000', 'end': '382.560', 'text': 'here. The other thing you get with a'}, {'start': '380.240', 'end': '384.639', 'text': 'kilt like this is you get human error.'}, {'start': '382.560', 'end': '386.160', 'text': 'And so you can see where people have'}, {'start': '384.639', 'end': '388.080', 'text': "left a stitch. It's kind of like looking"}, {'start': '386.160', 'end': '392.160', 'text': 'at vintage garments. You know before we'}, {'start': '388.080', 'end': '393.680', 'text': 'had uh you know sewing machines before'}, {'start': '392.160', 'end': '395.440', 'text': 'that you could see where people would'}, {'start': '393.680', 'end': '396.720', 'text': 'make a mistake or they would miss a'}, {'start': '395.440', 'end': '398.479', 'text': 'stitch or the stitch would be too long'}, {'start': '396.720', 'end': '400.880', 'text': 'or something like that because hands are'}, {'start': '398.479', 'end': '403.199', 'text': 'actually making the garment. The kilt'}, {'start': '400.880', 'end': '404.800', 'text': 'makery teaches you how to make a kilt'}, {'start': '403.199', 'end': '406.800', 'text': 'the traditional way, the historical'}, {'start': '404.800', 'end': '409.240', 'text': 'traditional way, which is through hand'}, {'start': '406.800', 'end': '412.160', 'text': 'sewing. So everything on the kilt is'}, {'start': '409.240', 'end': '413.840', 'text': 'handsewn. And I have really wonderful'}, {'start': '412.160', 'end': '416.080', 'text': 'memories of sitting with these five'}, {'start': '413.840', 'end': '417.600', 'text': 'other seamstresses and myself. Hand'}, {'start': '416.080', 'end': '419.520', 'text': 'sewing. And hand sewing is a really'}, {'start': '417.600', 'end': '421.520', 'text': 'lovely kind of communal thing to do'}, {'start': '419.520', 'end': '423.280', 'text': "because you can chat while you're doing"}, {'start': '421.520', 'end': '424.639', 'text': "it. And as long as you've got everything"}, {'start': '423.280', 'end': '426.240', 'text': "marked out, you don't have to keep"}, {'start': '424.639', 'end': '428.639', 'text': 'relying and reme-measuring and things'}, {'start': '426.240', 'end': '430.479', 'text': 'like that. and just talking, just having'}, {'start': '428.639', 'end': '432.960', 'text': 'a chat and it I mean that group of'}, {'start': '430.479', 'end': '434.800', 'text': 'people I tell you two weeks you think'}, {'start': '432.960', 'end': '436.240', 'text': "two weeks I mean and it it's like"}, {'start': '434.800', 'end': '437.919', 'text': "they're part of you you know how can"}, {'start': '436.240', 'end': '441.680', 'text': "that happen in two weeks I don't know"}, {'start': '437.919', 'end': '441.680', 'text': 'but it was really it was really'}, {'start': '442.280', 'end': '449.120', 'text': 'great I think the idea of technology'}, {'start': '445.759', 'end': '451.280', 'text': 'creeping into handcraft things is really'}, {'start': '449.120', 'end': '452.880', 'text': 'really dangerous that idea of of'}, {'start': '451.280', 'end': '455.520', 'text': 'touching something and creating'}, {'start': '452.880', 'end': '457.280', 'text': 'something and the communal aspect of'}, {'start': '455.520', 'end': '458.639', 'text': 'being together and making something is'}, {'start': '457.280', 'end': '460.560', 'text': "really I mean that's one of the reasons"}, {'start': '458.639', 'end': '462.240', 'text': "that I do theater live theater you can't"}, {'start': '460.560', 'end': '464.639', 'text': 'do it by yourself you have to have other'}, {'start': '462.240', 'end': '468.080', 'text': "people and you have to do it you can't"}, {'start': '464.639', 'end': '470.160', 'text': 'sit in front of a box and do it you have'}, {'start': '468.080', 'end': '472.639', 'text': 'to it has to be with other people on the'}, {'start': '470.160', 'end': '475.360', 'text': 'in in structure inside structure there'}, {'start': '472.639', 'end': '477.840', 'text': "are um there's horsehair to kind of keep"}, {'start': '475.360', 'end': '479.199', 'text': "it in place and then there's a lining"}, {'start': '477.840', 'end': '480.800', 'text': 'and you can do lots of different kinds'}, {'start': '479.199', 'end': '482.319', 'text': "of things with that because nobody's"}, {'start': '480.800', 'end': '484.400', 'text': "going to see it except for you. It's"}, {'start': '482.319', 'end': '486.639', 'text': 'made me want to be an actual quilt'}, {'start': '484.400', 'end': '488.720', 'text': "maker. Uh, and I've made two. I made one"}, {'start': '486.639', 'end': '490.720', 'text': 'while I was at the workshop for my son.'}, {'start': '488.720', 'end': '493.280', 'text': 'And I made another one after the'}, {'start': '490.720', 'end': '495.360', 'text': 'workshop just to keep keep that those'}, {'start': '493.280', 'end': '498.240', 'text': 'ideas and the process, you know, in my'}, {'start': '495.360', 'end': '500.479', 'text': 'head. And I fell in love with it. And I'}, {'start': '498.240', 'end': '503.360', 'text': 'really really love it. I really love'}, {'start': '500.479', 'end': '506.800', 'text': "doing it. Don't you love it? I love it"}, {'start': '503.360', 'end': '509.800', 'text': "so much. It's pretty cool. It is pretty"}, {'start': '506.800', 'end': '509.800', 'text': 'cool.'}, {'start': '512.070', 'end': '531.809', 'text': '[Music]'}, {'start': '537.920', 'end': '541.160', 'text': 'I never'}, {'start': '546.780', 'end': '555.240', 'text': '[Music]'}, {'start': '555.360', 'end': '559.040', 'text': 'Postcards is made possible by the'}, {'start': '557.120', 'end': '561.760', 'text': 'Minnesota Arts and Cultural Heritage'}, {'start': '559.040', 'end': '564.480', 'text': 'Fund and the citizens of Minnesota.'}, {'start': '561.760', 'end': '565.880', 'text': 'Additional support provided by Margaret'}, {'start': '564.480', 'end': '567.680', 'text': 'A. Cargill'}, {'start': '565.880', 'end': '569.839', 'text': 'Philanthropies, Mark and Margaret'}, {'start': '567.680', 'end': '571.839', 'text': 'Jakeel, Julene on behalf of Shalom Hill'}, {'start': '569.839', 'end': '573.640', 'text': 'Farms, a retreat and conference center'}, {'start': '571.839', 'end': '577.360', 'text': 'in a prairie setting near Windham,'}, {'start': '573.640', 'end': '577.360', 'text': 'Minnesota. On the web at'}, {'start': '577.880', 'end': '582.160', 'text': 'shalommhillfarm.org. Alexandria,'}, {'start': '579.680', 'end': '584.000', 'text': 'Minnesota, a yearround destination with'}, {'start': '582.160', 'end': '586.360', 'text': 'hundreds of lakes, trails, and'}, {'start': '584.000', 'end': '590.040', 'text': 'attractions for memorable vacations and'}, {'start': '586.360', 'end': '592.560', 'text': 'events. More information at'}, {'start': '590.040', 'end': '594.959', 'text': 'exploralex.com. A better future starts'}, {'start': '592.560', 'end': '597.519', 'text': 'now. West Central initiative empowers'}, {'start': '594.959', 'end': '600.240', 'text': 'communities with resources, funding, and'}, {'start': '597.519', 'end': '603.240', 'text': 'support for a thriving region. More at'}, {'start': '600.240', 'end': '603.240', 'text': 'wcif.org.'}, {'start': '608.620', 'end': '632.080', 'text': '[Music]'}]