1953 german-austrian nanga parbat dandayaatra

mariyu german-austrian nanga parbat dandayaatralo herman buhl prapanchamlooni tommidava ettaina parvatam nanga parbat yokka modati aarohana cheyadamlo vijayam saadhinchaadu. athanu 1953 juulai 3naa sikharaaniki cherukunnadu mariyu ontarigaa evarainaa ekkadam dwara 8,000 meterla sikharaanni cherukovadam idhe modatisaari mariyu ippatikee undhi. himalaya mariyu karakoram loe enimidi vaela mandhi adhirohinchadaaniki sudeergha prayatnaalaku naayakatvam vahinchina vaaru eee dandayaatraku naayakatvam vahinchaaru.
juulai 3naa sumaru 02:00 vadda unna ettaina shibiram nundi bayaludaeraadu, taruvaata athani adhirohana bhagaswamy oka ganta taruvaata, taruvaata athanu gudaaraaniki tirigi vacchaadu. chetulu mariyu mokaallapai croll cheyadaaniki tagginchabadina taruvaata buhl 19:00 vadda sikharaaniki cherukunnadu. athanu tirigi ravadam praarambhinchinappudu athani vadda manchu goddali ledhaa gudaram ledhu, aaharam ledhu, mariyu oka crampone patti lekunda poyindi. raatri undataaniki oke oka chinna gadhi, nilabadi unde gadhi, oke oka chethi pattutho unna chinna anchu matrame unna 21:00 vadda cheekati padinapudu athanu agalsi vachindi. 04:00 vadda, nidraponi taruvaata, athanu thana avarohananu tirigi prarambhinchagaligadu mariyu chivariki 19:00 vadda unna gudaaraaniki tirigi vacchaadu, akkada athanu maraninchaadani bhaavinchina iddaru sahacharulu ataniki sahayam chesaaru. herligcofer taruvaata ontarigaa ekkadam nammakadroham anie bhaavinchaadu, endukante adhirohakula brundam sikharaanni cherukovalane pranaalika undhi.
nepathyam.
parvatam yokka vivarana.
paakistaanlooni nanga parbat himalaya parvata shreniki paschima chivaralo undhi. idhi himalayala daani sameepa enimidi vaela poruguna unna dhaulagiri nundi mugisindi, conny idhi sikharam kante diguvaku pravahinche sindhu nadhi dwara vaeru cheyabadina kaarakoramlo k2 nundi undhi. nanga parbat prapanchamlone tommidava ettaina parvatam, conny enimidi vaela mandhi parvathaalalo, idhi sthalaakruthi praamukhyatalo everestnu adhirohinchina rendavadi.
nepaul ledhaa tibet maadirigaa kakunda, pakistan paaschaatyulaku siddhamgaa pravesaanni anumatinchindi mariyu mariyu gilgit kuu egurutuu, aapai bays camp yokka rendu rojula march loe truckulo cherukovadam saadhyamaindi.
kondanu adhirohinchadaaniki gatamlo chesina prayatnaalu.
enimidi vaela meterla ettulo unna edainaa parvatampai modati sikharagra prayatnam ayina nanga parbatnu adhirohinchadaaniki modati prayatnam prayatnam aangleyulu fred mummery, geophrey hustings mariyu norman coley chesaaru.
iddaru gurkha sahacharulatho paatu, raakhee mukham meeda himapaatamlo mameri maraninchindi. appati nundi rendava prapancha yuddham varaku eee parvataaniki anni dandayaatralu germany nundi jarigaayi-1932,1934,1937,1938 mariyu 1939 loe. aaa samayamlo nepaul mariyu tibet germanyki moosiveyabaddaayi kabatti bhaarata saamrajyamlo nanga parbat german drushti kendramgaa maarindi. eee parvatam rajakeeyamgaa andubaatulo undedi mariyu chaalaa kashtamaina parvataaroohana savaalunu andistuunee daanini sahetukamgaa sulabhamgaa cherukovacchu. 1932 mariyu mariyu villie mercle nayakudu, conny 1934 dandayaatralo athanu maraninchina vaarilo okadu, sikharam krinda konchem tuphaanulo chikkukunnadu. chikkukunnadu mugguru british brundam eee parvataanni anveshinchindi, conny tuphaanu taruvaata iddaru adhirohakulu mallee kanipinchaledu. kabatti, 1953 natiki edu vijayavantam kaani dandayaatralu 31 maranaalaku daariteesaayi.
carle herligcofer.
herligcofer merclecu savati sodarudu mariyu mercle maraninchinappudu ataniki 17 samvatsaraalu. samvatsaraalugaa athanu thana sodarudi aarohananu pratibimbimchadaaniki mariyu sikharaagraaniki cherukovadaniki nanga parbatku saahasayaatraku naayakatvam vahinchaalani, villie mercle smaaraka yaatragaa undaalani nischayinchukunnaadu. nischayinchukunnaadu ayana kriyaaseela samsthanu praarambhinchinappudu ayana ennadoo himalayaniki vellaledu ledhaa alps parvathaalalo ekkuva anubhavam kooda lenanduna sandehaanni edurkonnaru. paal boyer aayananu "parvataaroohana vruttaalalo teliyani mariyu eee vishayamlo anubhavam laeni vyakti" gaa abhivarninchaaru. mariyu germany gouravaartham pedda samuuham kalisi sikharagra samavesaniki cherukovalani mercle pranaalika vesindi. kabatti herligcofer samuuha vijayanni saadhinchaalani mariyu adhe maargamlo saadhinchaalani korukunnadu. merclecu spaansar chesina german alpine club ledhaa german alpine club eee samsthalo sahayam cheyaledu, conny club yokka munich saakha (herligcofer yokkadi) mariyu austrian alpine club eee adhirohanaku maddatu icchaayi.
sannahalu.
adhirohana brundam.
1953 german-austrian nanga parbat yaatra (50 samvatsaraalu) kosam, austrian parvata margadarshi, herligcofer (36 samvatsaraalu) kuu deputyga niyaminchabaddaadu mariyu parvatampai adhirohana nayakudiga undalsi undhi. ayana 1932,1934 dandayaatralalo palgonnaru. athanu juulai praarambhamlo dandayaatranu vidichipettaalsi undhi, kabatti (45), austrian kooda, modatlo deputy climbing nayakudiga, aaa samayamlo baadhyatalu sweekarinchaadu.
austrialoni insbrucku chendina herman buhl (29 samvatsaraalu) 1953 natiki airopaloni pramukha alpine adhirohakulalo okadu. athanu eegar yokka uttara mukhanni adhirohinchaadu, conny himalayaniki vellaledu. athanitho paatu austrian mariyu buhl yokka tarachugaa adhirohana bhagaswamy ayina kuno rainer (38) kooda cheraadu. migilina party german. oto kempter (27) mariyu herman collensperger (27) german alpine club yokka munich saakhaku chendinavaaru mariyu (52) parvata margadarshi. prakhyaata cinematographer hohns ertle (45) kooda parvataaroohakudu mariyu athanu documentary chitram cheyadaaniki brundamlo unnadu. fritz oman shibira nirvahakudu, conny kontakaalam varaku adhirohanalo puurtigaa palgonagaligadu. vruttireetyaa saadhaarana abhyasakudu ayina herligcofer, alaage yaatranu nirvahinchevaaru yaatra vaidyudu.
passang daavaa lama netrutvamloni aiduguru sherpala brundaanni niyaminchaaru, conny pakistan-kashmir sarihaddulo aneka vaaraala paatu nilipiveyabadina taruvaata vaariki chivaraku pravesha veesaalu nirakarinchabaddayi. emi jarugutundo teliyaka, gilgit herligcofer iravai rendu hanjaalanu bhartiigaa teesukunnadu, gilgit pooliisu adhikari rubber husson netrutvamlo, athanu hanjaalato dandayaatraku anusandhaana adhikari ayyadu. bays campku teesukelladaaniki 300 mandhi sthaanika kuuliilanu taalichi vadda saadhaarana karmikuluga teesukunnaru.
parikaraalu.
upayoginchina parikaraalu yuddhaaniki mundu dandayaatralalo upayoginchina vaatipai aadharapadi undevi mariyu avi vyaparalu viraalamgaa icchina vaatipai gananeeyamgaa aadharapadi undevi. bootlu cheelamanda painaku cherukune saampradaaya tholu mariyu tricouni gorlu lekunda rabbaru soltho mariyu double tolaginchagala pheel liningtho untaayi. prati bootlo rendu mandapati mariyu oka sannani saaks dharinchavachhu mariyu unni putteelu dharinchavachhu.. tama dutor tentlalo vaaru vinootna gaalitho nimpagalige parupulatho santoshinchaaru, conny tent flaaplanu muusivaeyadaaniki snap fastenerla empika gurinchi chintinchaaru. sleeping byagulu okadaanikokati jaripoyela rendintalu undevi. vaaru merugaina roopakalpana mariyu pareekshinchina parikaraalu kaligi unnaarani bhaavinchina everest meeda british vaariki asuya kaligindi.
dustula kosam vaaru unni dustula yokka bahula poralapai dharinche gaberdin pyantu mariyu double-layer ninophlex anoraklanu kaligi undevaaru. adhirohakula chethi todugulu gurrapu charmamtho mariyu perlan yokka hanja chetulato undevi. ekke taadulu 8 mimi perlan kaligi undevi. mundu jaagratta charyaga vaari oxygen setlanu teesukunnaru, conny vaaru anubandha oxygennu upayoginchakundaa undaalani aasinchaaru-idhi camp vii antha ettulo teesukellinappatiki, ekkadaaniki upayoginchabadakapothe. moodu radeo communication setlalo okati ravana samayamlo debbatindi-rendoo chaalaa upayogakaramgaa unnayani vaaru kanugonnaru.
munich nundi bayaluderi bays campku trekk cheyandi.
1953 april 17naa eee brundam railu dwara munich nundi bayaluderi, genova vadda syooj kaaluva dwara karachi vellae lloyd tristino emvi "victoria" loe ekkaaru. prayaanamloo urdoo neerchukoevadamloo samayam gadiparu. kottagaa swatantram pondina paakistaanlo, mukhyamgaa vivaadaaspada kashmir praantamlooni pakistan niyantranalo unna nanga parbat sikharaagrampai pakistan jendaanu eguraveyadaaniki vaaru angeekarinchinappudu vaariki goppa swaagatam labhinchindi. radeo ravalpindi dwara prasaram cheyadaaniki rojuvaaree vaataavarana suuchanalanu erpaatu chesina taruvaata vaaru rendu saadhaarana raillalo saamaanu venta juuniyar jattu sabhyulatho lahore varaku air conditioned railulo vellaaru. appudu marinta paedha raillu vaarini raavalpindiki teesukellaayi, akkada nundi vaaru tama tommidi tannula saamaanu thoo gilgit kuu naalugu ververu vimanalalo dakota dwara eguraveyadaaniki erpaatlu chesaaru.
vaaru gilgit cherukunnappudu appatike iravai rendu hunja porterla brundam erpaatu cheyabadindi (diguva hunja porterla vibhaganni chudandi). pooloo aata mariyu varusa vindulatoe vaaru vinodam pondaaru. mae 8naa oka goppa vedukalo vaariki bays camp vadda eguraveyadaaniki pedda pakistan genda mariyu sikharaagraaniki oka chinna pennantnu andajesaru. aaa taruvaata, taruvaati rojullo vaaru indus loya varaku truckula naukaadalamloo taalichi varaku vellaaru, akkada vaaru 300 mandhi konda-raitu kuuliilanu bays campku teesukelladaaniki kalisaaru, idhi mae 13naa praarambhamaindi. rakhiyot loya varaku trekking chestu vaaru tatoloni chivari nivasanni vadili, adbhuta pacchika bayallaku kontha dhooramlo tama taatkaalika bays campnu erpaatu chesaaru.
shaashwata bays camp loyaku marinta paiki, rakhiyot himaninadam yokka mukku daati mariyu sumaru oka morain dibbapai undhi. portarlu marinta munduku velladaaniki niraakarinchaaru, kabatti bays campnu erpaatu cheyadaaniki adhirohakulu mariyu hanjaalaku vadiliveyabadindi, idhi mae 25 natiki jarigindi.
kondapaiki edagandi.
sibiraalu I mariyu II.
pedda raathi valla himapatam nundi rakshinchabadina rakhiyot himaninadam meeda goppa manchu jalapaatam diguvana modati sibiraanni erpaatu cheyadame dheeni uddesam. ayithe, marinta aaharam, battalu, jeetam, tama baruvunu tagginchukovaalani koorutuu hanjaalu sammeku digaaru. vaarini tolaginchi, vaarilo aidugurini vetanam lekunda vadilesaaru. adanapu aaharam ivvadaaniki matrame saripotundani husson herligcoferku salaha icchaadu. hanjaalu vyaktigatamgaa kshamaapanalu cheppamani cheyabaddaaru, sudeergha alasyam taruvaata vaarilo tommidi mandhi camp I varaku velladaaniki siddhamgaa unnaaru mariyu herligcofer 10 nundi 15 mandhi portarlanu rakhiyot loyaloni tato nundi camp I varaku sahayam cheyadaaniki niyaminchadam praarambhinchaadu. lambardar ledhaa tato mayer cheraalani pattubattaru mariyu herligcofer atanni panikiraani porter mariyu vighaatam kaliginche prabhavanni kanugonaalani koraru.
28 mae naa modati shibiram nundi buhl mariyu rainer manchu jalapaatam varaku oka marganni tirigi chudatam praarambhinchaaru, kaani vaaru 12 gantalaku paiga pani chesina taruvaata alasipoyi tirigi vacchaaru mariyu rendava shibiram kosam uddesinchina pradaesaaniki matrame cherukunnaru. mottam adhirohanalo idhi atyanta pramaadakaramaina bhagamani frouenberger bhaavinchaaru. pratiroojuu oka pratyeka janta adhirohakulu 30 mae natiki vaaru sait krinda matrame cherukune varaku manchu jalapaata marganni munduku teesukellaaru. eee samayaniki padhi hanjaalu mariyu iravai tato portarlu camp I varaku bharanni mosukeltunnaru. hanjaalanu akkadiki teesukelladaaniki veelugaa rendava shibiram varaku sthiramaina taadulu, taadu nicchenalu mariyu vantenanu erpaatu chesaaru. eee shibiram rakhiyat mukham mariyu parisaraala yokka adbhutamaina drushyaanni andinchindi mariyu parvatampai purogatini gamaninchadaaniki oka veekshanhagaa upayoginchabadutundi. conny akkada kooda pramaadakaramainadi, chuttoo seraclu mariyu gudaaraala madhya kooda pagullu unnaayi.
shibiram III.
juun 6naa rainer mariyu kempter camp shibiram velle marganni anveshinchadam praarambhinchaaru mariyu juun 9naa buhl mariyu chedhu pravartana pannendu hanjaalanu eee shibiram kosam pranaalikaabaddhamaina pradaesaaniki daggaragaa nadipinchindi. herligcofer purogati chaalaa nemmadigaa undani bhaavinchaadu, kabatti athanu maroe pannendu hanjaalanu niyaminchadaaniki hasannu pampaadu, conny vaatilo naalugu matrame prabhaavavantamgaa unnayani telindi. aushenbrenner appudu manchi vaataavaranaanni swaadheenam chesukuni, buhl, kempter, collensperger mariyu rainarlanu erpaatu chesi, vaegamgaa rakhiyot sikharam vaipu velladaaniki, aapai thoorpu aaretku velladaaniki, paatha jattu sabhyulanu sibiraalanu erpaatu cheyadaaniki vadilivesadu. 1934 dandayaatralo saadhaaranamgaa eee marganni teesukunnaru-1932 dandayaatralo rakhiyot sikharam diguvana unna "mulde" (amphitheatre) anie pilavabade saanketikamgaa saralamaina diguva marganni anusarinchadaaniki prayatninchindi, conny manchulo chikkukundi.
aaa roeju moodava mariyu naalugava sibiraalanu erpaatu cheyadaaniki prayatninchadaaniki juun 10naa taanu mariyu collensperger kontamandi portarlatho kalisi 04:00 vadda bayaluderamani buhl raasaaru. vaaru munupati dandayaatrala shibiram III pradaesaaniki chaalaa mundugaane cherukunnaru, kabatti buhl thana portarlanu vaariki vivarinchakundaa neerugaa daati munupati shibiram sthalaaniki vellanicchaadu. frouenberger marinta mandhi portarlatho vaarini anusarinchaadu. 1932 mariyu mariyu ikkada unna naalugo shibiram sthaayi peethabhoomilo vaaru unnaaru, conny 1937 dandayaatra kontha diguvana sibiraanni erpaatu chesindi mariyu akkadane padahaaru mandhi prajalu himapatam kaaranamgaa maraninchaaru, vaaru vaari gudaralalo khananam cheyabaddaaru. andari kosam vechi undataaniki badulu, buhl vaegamgaa dakshina chongraanu (chongra sikharam yokka anubandha sikharam) adhirohinchi, madhyahnam mundu vaari swantha shibiram III nuu erpaatu cheyadamlo sahaayapadataaniki tirigi vacchaadu. athanu mariyu frouenberger ratriputa shibiramlo basa chesaaru mariyu migataavaaru kindaku vellipoyaaru. marusati roeju frouenberger kooda dakshina chongraanu adhirohinchaadu mariyu collensperger indhanam mariyu saamaagrini teesukuvacche mugguru portarlatho vacchaadu. juun 12naa buhl mariyu frouenberger manchu goda diguva bhaagamlo rakhiyot sikharam varaku cherukogaligaaru-aaa pradaesam vaari shibiram shibiram maarindi-conny oka gumpu tuphaanu vaarini shibiram shibiram tirigi vellelaa chesindi. dakshina chongra paryatanalu avasaramaina pranaalikaloo bhaagam kaananduna baadhyulaina vaaru vaatini tiraskarinchaarani vaaru taruvaata vinnaru.
herligcofer anae thana pustakamlo eee sanghatanalanu purogatini vegavantam cheyadaaniki mottam parvataaroohakula brundamtho kuudina kotta pranaalikaloo bhaagamgaa unchaaru, eee pranaalikanu adhirohana nayakudu ashenbrenner juun 11naa praarambhinchaaru.
shibiram IV.
oka vaaram paatu tuphaanu mariyu lothaina manchu shibiram III paina etuvanti purogatini nirodhinchaayi, conny tuphaanu aidava rojuna aushenbrenner, earl, rainer, kempter mariyu collensperger portarlatho kalisi taginanta sarafaraalato shibiram III vadda cherukunnaru. idhi, mariyu everest ekkabadindani vachhe vaartalu, goppa prothsaahaanni icchaayi. juun 18naa matrame vaataavaranam bagane undhi, conny ushnograta, frouenberger, rainer, collensperger mariyu buhl shibiram IV kosam sait varaku kashtapadagaligaru, akkada vaaru gudaaraala kosam rendu manchu randhraalanu tavvaaru. oka guha chaalaa visaalamgaa undavacchu endukante avi tavvutunnappudu pagulu edurkonnaayi, anduvalla manchunu daanilo padesi, aapai khaaliini puurinchagaligaayi. marusati roeju kempter mariyu buhl raatri shibiram IV loe undagaligaaru.
naalugo shibiram nundi sikharaaniki velle mottam marganni chudavachu. vaaru uttara mariyu dakshina sylberzacken sikharaala madhya manchutho kappabadina visaalamaina kanuma ayina silber satel (ledhaa vendi jeenu) nuu daatutaaru. aaa taruvaata, thoorpu aaret bajhin gyap vadda oka naach cole dwara, taruvaata bhujam meeda mariyu nanga parbat sikharaagraaniki vellae chota nundi edho oka vidhamgaa charchinchaalsina phore summit anie pilavabadedi.
taruvaati konni rojulu hanjaalu sibiraalu IV mariyu V kuu ekkadaaniki maargam siddham chestu taadu mariyu pitanlanu teesukuraavadaaniki gadiparu, kaani tarachugaa tuphaanulu purogatini alasyam chesaayi. eee vidhamgaa vaaru moor talaku cherukunnaru. buhl mariyu kempter vaari modati 7,000 meterla sikharamaina rakhiyot sikharaanni adhirohinchadaaniki samayanni vecchinchaaru, buhl sikharampai sikharaanni adhirohinchadamtho athanu daanipai nilabadaledani mariyu dakshinaana unna vistaaramaina rupal mukhanni ekkada nundi chudagalado choopinchaadu. tirigi vacchi vaaru hanjala kosam manchulo metlu kattiristaaru. vaaru ippudu adhika ettulo sarafara cheyadaaniki siddhamgaa unnappatikee, atyanta samarthavantamainavigaa pariganinchabade hanjaalu kooda, andaruu anaarogyamtho unnaarani cheppukoni, tuphaanulu mallee jokyam chesukunnayi.
buhl ippudu chaalaa teevramaina daggutho kolukunnadu, conny rainer flabitisto baadhapadutuu bays campku tirigi ravalasi vachindi. anduvalla, buhl mariyu kempter camp V nii erpaatu cheyadaaniki mariyu sikharagra kosam velampata cheyadaaniki siddhamgaa unnaaru. ayithe herligcofer jattuku vijayam saadhinchalanukunnaadu, nirdishta vyaktula kosam kaadu, mariyu bays camp nundi vishayalanu niyantrinchaalani nischayinchukunnaaduh "neenu rendinti madhya enchukovalsi vasthe neenu ellappuduu sikharaagraaniki cherukoni sahakaara yaatraku veltaanu". ruthupavanaalu sameepistunnaayani, parvatam diguva nundi paristhitulu nijamgaa chaalaa pramaadakaramgaa kanipistunnayani raavalpindilooni radeo nundi herligcofer vinnadu, kabatti juun 30naa athanu bays campku tirigi raavadaaniki camp III vadda unna naluguru adhirohakulaku mariyu naluguru hanjaalaku radeo prasaram chesaadu. akkada vaataavaranam bagundani, anduvalla herligcofer tadupari maddatu aaputaanani bedirinchaarani adhirohakulu badulichaaru. ayithe frouenberger vaarini munduku saagadaaniki anumatinchamani achenbrennernu oppinchagaligaadu, anduvalla athanu juulai 1naa buhl, kempter mariyu ertllatho kalisi adbhutamaina vaataavaranamloo naalugo shibiram varaku ekkaadu. marusati roeju vaaru mallii naalugo shibiram nundi venakki taggaalani aadesinchabaddaaru, mallii vaaru vijayavantamgaa pratighatinchaaru.
camp vii.
chivariki naluguru adhirohakulu rakhiyat mukham meedugaa kashtataramaina maargamlo manchi vaataavaranamloo tamatho paatu vellamani, "moor thala" kii cherukuni juulai 2naa moor thala venuka shibiram shibiram erpaatu cheyagaligaaru.
yaatra yokka pranaalika maroka ettaina shibiram kosam, bahusha bajhin gyap vadda, conny manchi vaataavaranam kaaranamgaa buhl mariyu kempter marusati roeju sikharaagram kosam prayatnistaarani vaaru nirnayinchukunnaaru. idhi dhooram kante ekkuva ettulo untundi. frouenberger mariyu ertle marusati roeju tama sonta velampata cheyadaaniki camp V loe undataaniki ishtapadataaru, conny gudaaramlo sthalam ledhu kabatti vaaru yuvakulaku maargam chuupadaaniki digutamani angeekarinchaaru.
sikharagra prayatnam.
1953 juulai 3.
juulai 3naa buhl gudaram nundi bayaluderi sikharaagraaniki bayaludaeradaaniki siddhamgaa unnadu, kaani kempter thana sleeping byaglo matrame unnadu. taanu twaralone anusaristaanani cheppinanduna kemptarnu kontha aahaaramto vadili, buhl migilina aaharam, pakistan genda mariyu tyroles pennantlu, uddeepana mariyu anty frastbite drugs (pervitin mariyu padutin), ice acks, skii poles, cramponelu mariyu camera teesukunnadu, conny taadu ledhaa climbing gair ledhu. pranaalika prakaram, iddaroo anubandha oxygennu teesukoledu. daadaapu puurti prasaantata, chaalaa challani, raatri aakaasam spashtamgaa undhi. athanu thoorpu teeram sikharaaniki cherukunna tarvaata, mruduvaina manchu drudhamgaa undataaniki daariteesindi mariyu athanu appatike prati adugu kosam rendu swaasalu teesukuntunnappatiki purogati baagundi. suuryudu 05:00 dwara udayistunnadu mariyu buhl oka ganta venuka kemptarnu chudagaligadu.
07:00 natiki athanu vendi jeenu cherukunnadu mariyu sikhara peethabhoomi munduku saagadam chudagaligadu. athanu thana bhagaswamy kosam vechi undakudadani nirnayinchukunnadu mariyu peethabhoomini daatadam praarambhinchaadu, ippudu prati aduguki aidu swaasalu teesukunnadu. moodu gantala taruvaata, peethabhoomiki chaalaa dhooram nundi, athanu vendi jeenu meeda unna kemptarnu chudagaligadu. buhl ippudu bajhin gyap sthaayilo unnadu, idhi oka pranaalikaabaddhamaina lakshyam, conny athani mundu mundu sikharam yokka niluvu dakshina goda undhi, daanini athanu ontarigaa datalekapoyadu. atyanta sulabhamaina maargam damir gyap varaku digadam, conny adhi mallee gananeeyamaina ekki untundi. 1934 dandayaatralo cherukunna ettaina pradaesaaniki daggaragaa unnadu. athanu mundu sikharaanni uttaraana daggaragaa daataalani nirnayinchukunnadu, kaani athanu thana ruxacknu vadili, sampoorna avasaralanu matrame mosukelladu-porapaatuna athanu thana ruxaclo sweaternu vadili vellaadu. mundu sikharam yokka sikharaanni adhirohinchadaaniki 14:00 prayatninchakundaa athanu thoorpu aaretnu daate bajhin gyapnu saadhinchaadu, mariyu athanu rupal mukhanni edama vaipuku bhujam vaipu padunaina, carnised ridgenu adhirohinchaadu. oka gendarm rock sikharam marganni addukundi, conny athanu velaadutunna marganni upayoginchi uttaraana daatindi, indulo thana chetulato manchutho kuudina gallini ekkadam, raatilo jaam cheyadam vantivi unnaayi. athanu mallii sikharam sikharam varaku ekkaadu mariyu 18:00 vadda bhujam paibhagamlo unnadu. oka kappu coca tii taagina taruvaata athanu velladam sulabham anie kanugonnadu, conny athanu chaalaa alasipoyadu mariyu naalugu vaipula croll cheyadaaniki tagginchabaddaadu.
sikharagra samavesam.
1953 juulai 3naa buhl nanga parbat sikharaaniki cherukunnadu. padihedu gantala ontari prayatnam taruvaata, enimidi vaela meterla sikharaanni ontarigaa modati aarohana chesina ekaika vyakti ayyadu mariyu ippatikee unnadu. athanu chaayaachitraalu teesi pakistan jendaanu thana manchu goddaliki kattesi, daanini saakshyamgaa akkade vadilesadu. sumaru 30 nimishala taruvaata athanu thana bhaarya kosam sikharam nundi oka chinna raayini teesukoni thana skii stambhaalanu upayoginchi digadam praarambhinchaadu, kaani athanu ventane thana manchu goddalini vadili vellinanduku chintinchaadu. athanu mallii gendarm daati vellaledani ataniki telusu, kabatti athanu cheekatiki mundu thoorpu aaretnu tirigi pondaalani mariyu chandrakanti loe vendi peethabhoomi antataa camp v cherukovalani aasatoe mummery pakkatemuka anie piluvabade sikharam paibhagam vaipu manchu vaalulo digaadu. ayithe, virigina crampon patti kaaranamgaa teevramgaa alasyam ayina athanu, cheekatilo 21:00 vadda agavalasi vachindi. athanu oke chetto oka raatiki vyatiraekamgaa nilabadataaniki mariyu vangi undataaniki matrame gadini kaligi undataaniki raatri vechi undavalasi vachindi. athani daggara tinadaaniki ledhaa traagadaaniki aemee ledhu mariyu thana vidi sweaternu kolpoyadu, conny athanu uttejakaramaina mariyu anty frastbite maatralatho tananu taanu balopetam chesukunnadu. vaataavaranam puurtigaa prasaantamgaa undadamtho aakaasam nakshatraalato nindipoyindi.
bays camp kuu digandi.
juulai 4naa modati veluturulo athanu oka raathi vaalunu digutuu, chivariki madhyahnam vyasala antaram krindiki cherukuni, thana ruxk tirigi pondadaaniki mundu sikharam krindiki ekkaadu. eee samayaniki teevramaina chali endalo adhika vaedini ichindi. athanu manchutho mingina glucose maatralanu andinchina thana ruxknu kanugonadamlo athanu adrushtavantudu. oka oohaatmaka sahacharuditho kalisi athanu peethabhoomi meedugaa poradi, 17:30 vadda unna vendi jeenu cherukunnadu, akkada nundi athanu gudaranni chudagaligadu.
19:00 vadda, nalabhai okka gantala taruvaata, athanu ontarigaa gudaram daggaraku cherukunnadu mariyu aanandamgaa atanni kalavadaniki vacchaadu. athanu moor talapai unna frouenbergerku coll chesaadu, athanu buhl tirigi vasthe camp V vadda iddariki gadini vadiliveyadaaniki camp camp digadam praarambhinchaadu. vaari pranaalika oxygen teesukoni marusati roeju vetakadam praarambhinchadamae. modatagaa, athanu sikharaagraaniki cherukunnada anie vaaru telivigaa adagaledu. vaaru athani manchu kottukupoyina kaali vellanu veelainanta uttamamgaa chikitsa chesaaru.
marusati roeju vaataavaranam vichchinnam kaavadaaniki mundhe vaaru hadavidiga digipoyaru mariyu vaaru moodava shibiraniki cherukunnaru. juulai 6naa vaaru oman mariyu collensperger thoo padihenu hanjaalato kalusukunnaru, vaaru vijayamtho santoshinchaaru. ertle taanu edurkonna kashtalanu chuupistuu buhl yokka chaayaachitraanni teesaadu "parvataaroohana charitralo atyanta prasiddhamaina eee prasiddha chitram, buhl thana avarohana chesinappudu teeyabadindi". suuryudi valla vedekkina manchu mariyu manchu paristhitulu bhayamkaramgaa marai, kabatti marusati roeju udayam challani samayamlo athani manchu kaatu mariyu gonthu vaapu kaaranamgaa baadhatho praarambhamayye mundu vaaru rendava shibiramlo agalsi vachindi. vaaru bays camp cherukunnaru, dheenini taruvaata buhl "atyanta chakkani receptions" gaa abhivarninchaaru.
tirigi germanyki.
juulai 7naa bays camplone herligcofer buhl yokka manchu kaatu chikitsanu praarambhinchaadu. modata athani paristhiti vishamgaa ledani bhaavinchinanduna, buhl chikitsa kosam taanu parvatam ekkaledani, conny buhl bays campku cherukune samayaniki athani kaali vellanu kaapaadukodaaniki chaalaa alasyam ayindani athanu cheppadu. herligcofer veelainanta twaragaa gilgitloni aasupatriki buhlnu teesukellaalani pratipaadinchaadu, conny yea kaaranam chetanaina buhlnu pradhana paarteetho paatu tirigi teesukellaaru. eee sandarbhamlo buhl rendu kaali vellalo sagaanni kattirinchaalsi vachindi.
eee yaatra kundapota ruthupavanaala varshamlo indus loyaku tirigi vachindi, akkadi nundi vaaru truckulaku phone cheyagaligaaru. gilgit kuu vaari prayaanamloo pedda sankhyalo prajalu vaarini utsaahaparichenduku vacchaaru mariyu karaacheelo pakistan adhyakshudu mariyu prabhutva mantrulu vaariki swaagatam palikaru. juulai 22 natiki vaaru samuhaluga munichku tirigi vellaaru, akkada berlin bhougolika samajam thana bangaaru pathakamtho yaatranu andinchindi.
ayithe, eee yaatra vijayam vividha aaropanala valla debbatindi. adhirohana samayamlo jattu aadesaalaku vyatiraekamgaa vellae pradhana adhirohakulanu (mukhyamgaa buhl) herligcofer aamodinchaledu mariyu bays campku tirigi vachinappudu vaariki chaalaa manchi aadarananu andinchaadu mariyu germanylo buhl paatranu takkuvagaa pradarsinchaadu. buhl thana pustakam "nanga parbat teerthayaatra" nuu prachurinchadam dwara, anumati lekunda bahiranga upanyaasaalu ivvadam dwara, thana oppandaanni ullanghinchadam dwara prateekaaram tiirchukunnaadu. tirigi vacchina adhirohakulanu rendu samuhaluga vibhajinchaaru. herligcofer thana tadupari yaatralo gasherbrum I kuu aahvaaninchina vaari swantha vyaktigata aasayaalanu tyaagam chesinatlu bhaavinchina vaaru taruvaata vistruta sikharaaniki mallinchaaru, conny sikharagra prayatnam viphalamaindi. buhl aahvaaninchabadaledu mariyu dandayaatra vijayavantam kaaledu. kaaledu buhl vistruta sikharaanni vijayavantamgaa edurkonnadu, conny ventane chogolisa kosam prayatnistunnappudu athanu champabaddadu.
itara samasyalu.
hanja portarlu.
1953 praarambhamlo, munich nundi bayaludere mundu, herligcofer raavalpindilo paarteelo chaeradaaniki, passang daavaa lama netrutvamlo darzlinglo unna aiduguru sherpalanu erpaatu chesaaru. vaaru anukunna vidhamgaa raaledu kabatti vaaru vachinappudu anusarinchadaaniki suuchanalanu vadilivesaaru.
 munupati 1934 nanga parbat yaatralo darzlinglo unna sherpalu mariyu bhotiyaalanu niyaminchaaru, veeru 1932 naati hanjala kante ekkuva saamarthyam kaligi unnatlu kanugonabadindi. ayithe, pakistan swaatantryam taruvaata, bharatadesam nundi prajalaku veesaalu jaarii cheyadamlo alasyam jarigindi, anduvalla eee yaatra mariyu 1953 american karakoram yaatra sthaanika hanja portarlanu niyaminchaalsina avasaram erpadindi. raajakeeya samasyalu kakunda itara ibbandulu undevi-sherpalu nanga parvatam meeda chaalaa maranaalanu chavichusaru, anduvalla parvataanni nivaarinchadaaniki prayatninchaaru, aaa samvatsaram sherpalaku goppa demand undhi, mukhyamgaa 1953 british mount everest dandayaatra nundi.
gilgit uttaraana unna hunja loya nundi hunja portarlu vacchaaru. herligcofer vaarini pratikuulamgaa sherpalatho polchadu, conny athanu dheenini parvataalapaiki ekkadam kante vaari tulanaatmaka anubhavam meeda aadharapaddadu.
herligcofer thana pustakamlo maadhi, sirdar mariyu isaa khaan netrutvamloni oka samuuhaanni prasamsimchaadu, ayithe iravai rendu hanjaalalo pannendu mandhi matrame siddhamgaa mariyu anukuulinchagalarani chepparu. ayithe, vaaru siddhamgaa, utsaahamgaa, utsaahamgaa unnaaru, conny paryaveekshinchaalsina avasaram undhi.
rudolph raat.
augsburgku chendina rudolph raat, parvataaroohana anubhavam laenappatikee nanga parbat patla autsaahikudu. germany nundi bayaludere mundu athanu dandayaatralo chaeradaaniki darakhaastu chesukunnadu, conny athanu tiraskarinchabadina taruvaata athanu paakistaanlooni karaachiki cherukunnadu, akkada athanu anaaroogyaaniki gurai konni vaaraala paatu aasupatrilo cheralsi vachindi. mallee jattulo chaeradaaniki viphalamaina darakhaastu chesaadu. appudu, dandayaatraku teliyani athanu raavalpindiki cherukunnadu, akkada ataniki chilaalaku pravesha veesa niraakarinchabadindi. aaa taruvaata athanu babusar kanumanu daatadaaniki kagan loya venta vellaadu, tadwara juun praarambhamlo bays campku cherukuni, gudaram, manchu goddali mariyu raksakto, paksham rojula paatu undamani koraadu. herligcofer atanni swaagatinchaalani nirnayinchukunnadu, athani kosam pravesha veesa kosam gataanugatikamgaa darakhaastu chesukunnadu mariyu atanni deputy camp managerga niyaminchaadu. idhi omannu vaastavamaina adhirohanaku vimukti chesindi, tadwara athanu moor talaku cherukovadaniki veelu kalpinchindi. duradrushtavasaattu athanu chattaviruddhamgaa kaashmeerloki pravesinchinanduna pooliisulu atanni gilgitku teesukelladaaniki vacchaaru.

