
1979 yugoslav mount everest yaatra

1979 yugoslav mount everest yaatra (jaahe VII) everest yokka uttara mukhamlo mottam paschima sikhara marganni upayoginchi everest parvatam (8,848 mea) yokka modati vijayavantamaina sikharam. idhi yugoslav alpinist brundam himalayala chesina edava dandayaatra, mariyu everest parvatam yokka ettaina sikharaaniki vaari modati aarohana. modati vijayavantamaina adhirohana taruvaata eee maargam "yugoslavian maargam" gaa prasiddhi chendindi. yugoslave rashtra naayakatvam eee adhirohananu appati varaku yugoslave kreedala yokka goppa vijayamgaa prakatinchindi.
paschima sikharam.
1953loe everest parvatam modati aarohana nundi 1979loe yugoslav aarohana varaku, 11 deshaala nundi 17 dandayaatralu vijayavantamgaa everest parvatam adhirohinchaayi, naalugu disala dwara mottam 84 aarohanalu dakshina cole, eshaanya sikharam, hornbean coolire dwara uttara mukham mariyu nairuti mukham. bays camp paina unna loe laa kanuma nundi sikharam varaku 6.5 kii. mea. la varaku vistarinchi unna paschima sikharaanni upayoginchi appati varaku yea dandayaatralu vijayavantam kaaledu. paschima sikharam saanketikamgaa demand chestondi mariyu tibet nundi balamaina gaalulaku guraindi, mariyu 2000 natiki dheenini prayatninchina 21 jatlalo, kevalam moodu jatlu matrame vijayam saadhinchaayi anae vaastavam daani ibbandini pratibimbistumdi.
american parvataaroohakulu tomm hornbean mariyu villie unsold 1963loe paschima sikharaanni paakshikamgaa daatavalasi vachindi, taruvaata sikharaanni adhirohinchadaaniki hornbean kooloyirku maararu. 1974 french dandayaatra dwara yugoslavianku idhe vidhamaina marganni enchukunnaaru, idhi himapaatamlo aruguru adhirohakulu maraninchinappudu vipattulo mugisindi. modati vijayavantamaina adhirohana 24 mandhi yugoslav alpinistulu chesaaru, veerilo naluguru 1979 mae 13,15 tedeello sikharaaniki cherukunnaru, himapatam patanam-rekhalanu nivaarinchadaaniki french nundi savarinchina marganni upayoginchaaru. paschima sikharam everestlo athi podavaina mariyu atyanta kashtataramaina margalalo okatigaa thana khyaatini konasaaginchindi, kevalam rendusaarlu matrame vijayavantamgaa adhirohinchabadindih april 20,1984naa, sikharam nundi digutuu maraninchina bulgarian hristo prodanov, mariyu adhe samvatsaram mae 9naa bulgarianlu nikole petkov mariyu kiril doskov, dakshina cole maargam dwara digaaru.
tayari.
190 mandhi alpinistulalo, prati vyakti saamardhyaalanu moodu nelala paatu kshunnamgaa tanikhi chesina taruvaata, 40 mandhi sharatulaku anugunamgaa unnaaru mariyu 24 mandhi empika cheyabaddaaru. eee aarohanaku sannahalu rendu samvatsaraalu puurti ayyayi. prati okkaroo aanglam neerchukoevalasi vachindi, prati okkari manasika profile aadarsamgaa undaali, prati okkaroo saareerakamgaa aarogyamgaa undaali mariyu vaari dantaalanu saricheyaali, alaage konugolu cheyaleni nirdishta parikaraalanu srushtinchaali. financing, veesaalu mariyu aneka anumatulu oke samayamlo pondavalasi vachindi. dandayaatralo aiduguru sabhyulu (ссчаря, belak, marenče, robas, zaplotnik) 5,300 meterla ettulo tama bays campnu erpaatu cheyadaaniki, tanikhi cheyadaaniki, angeekarinchadaaniki oka samvatsaram mundu bayaludaeraaru. aaa samayamlo, vaaru loe laa kanumaku saapekshamgaa surakshitamaina vidhananni kanugonnaru.
eee yaatralo 24 mandhi adhirohakulu, iddaru vaidyulu, mugguru vilekharulu mariyu 20 mandhi sthaanika sherpa guidelu unnaaru. eee yaatraku nayakudu anubhavagnudaina himalaya parvataaroohakudu. 24 mandhi adhirohakulalo, 20 mandhi sloveen, iddaru croat (stipe bojikto sahaa), mariyu chivari iddaru bosniac. sherpalaku nayakudu aang phu, athanu munupati samvatsaram everest parvataanni adhirohinchaadu. 1960 nundi 1975 varaku himalayala everest parvataaniki mundu jarigina aaru dandayaatralalo eee adhirohakulalo chaalaa mandhi ettaina sikharam kosam siddhamayyaru.
eee parikaraalanu lubliana nundi oka trucku dwara rijekaku pampinhee chesaaru. rizeka naukaasrayamloo, oodapai 18 tannula parikaraalanu load chesaru 10 kilometres adhirohana taadulu, 350 meterla velaadadeeyadam mariyu aluminium nicchenalu, 40 gudaralu, 80 sleeping byagulu, 30 jatala pratyaekamgaa tayaaru chesina "gozzerica" adhirohana bootlu, raallu mariyu manchu kosam 500 scroolu mariyu cheelikalu, aneka vandala liitarla kirosin mariyu vanta kosam gyaas mariyu daadaapu naalugu tannula aaharam. bharatadesamloni kalakatta mariyu nepaalloni kaatmandu meedugaa parvathaalalo daani prarambha sthaanaaniki cherukovadaniki parikaraalu rendu nelalu pattindi. eee prayaanam 1979 fibravari 27naa praarambhamaindi.
samudra mattaniki 6,000 meterla etthu varaku 750 mandhi sthaanika portarlu eee parikaraalanu 19 rojula paatu teesukellaaru, akkada khumbu himaninadam meeda bays camp erpaatu cheyabadindi. vaarilo prati okkaroo 30 kilola baruvunu mosukellagaa, alpinistulu tama vyaktigata saamaanu mosukellaru. 5, 300 meterla ettulo unna bays camplo, gudaralu erpaatu chesi, parikaraalanu erpaatu chesaaru. oka gudaaramlo 60 kilola dollar notlatho kuudina baarel undedi. portarlaku rojuku $2 () andaayi.
yaatra.
eee yaatra aidu ettaina sibiraalanu erpaatu chesi, bhadrata kosam vaati madhya sthiramaina taadulanu unchindi. marchi 29 mariyu april 6 madhya, eee yaatra bays camp (5,350 mea) mariyu loe laa (6,050 mea) paas anchu madhya vaalupai taadulanu amarchindi mariyu 200 meterla podavaina chethitho panichese cable ravaanaanu erpaatu chesindi. eee vidhamgaa sumaru 6 tannula parikaraalu ravana cheyabaddaayi. sumaru 6,000 meterla ettulo loe laa ekketappudu vaari modati saanketika samasyanu eee yaatra edurkondi, vaaru akkada tama gudaaraalanu erpaatu chesinappudu, conny balamaina gaali vaarini oodchivesindi. eee rojullo vaaru nivasinchina manchulo randhraalu tavvalsi vachindi. modati shibiram varaku uiaa hiking grade II mariyu III madhya maarutuu untundi. rendava sibiraanni 12 padakalatho 6,770 meterla ettulo erpaatu chesaaru, mariyu moodava sibiraanni 7,170 meterla ettulo, oka addanki krinda yaabhai meterla ettulo erpaatu chesaaru, taruvaata sarafaraalato nimpaaru. west sholder" anie piluvabade eee addanki 1963 american dandayaatra paschima sikharam nundi maroka maargaaniki bayaluderindi. yugoslav dandayaatra addankini daatavesi, paschima sikharam gundaa ekkadam konasaginchi, april 27naa 7,520 meterla ettulo vaari nalgava sibiraanni erpaatu chesindi. vaaru tvaralo gantaku 150 kimeeki paiga gaalulato aidu rojula paatu tuphaanu taakindi, mariyu vaaru tama aidava, chivari sibiraanni mae 9naa 8,120 meterla ettulo erpaatu chesaaru.
aidava shibiram (camp v) tarvaata matrame anubandha oxygennu upayoginchadam praarambhinchabadindi, endukante adhi lekunda shibiraniki cherukoleni vaaru sikharagra abhyardhulu kaadani jattu nayakudu bhaavinchaaru. oka parvataaroohakudu anaaroogyaaniki gurainappudu ledhaa konasaagadaaniki chaalaa alasipoyinanduna, athani sthaanamlo marokaru jattunu marcharu. vikee grocels mariyu marjan manfreda sikharaagramlo modati avakaasaanni pondaaru. maargam kosam vetukutuu kontha samayam vrudhaa chesina taruvaata, sumaru 8,300 meterla ettulo oka raathi poga gottam entha irukainadi antey, pitch kii naayakatvam vahinchina manfreda, anubandha oxygen seesaalato kuudina pyaaknu teesukellalekapoyadu, endukante adhi irukaina cheelikalo jaam ayi, athani purogatini aapindi. athanu granite yokka podavaina niluvu palakapaiki ekki, daani paina taadunu velaadadeesina taruvaata thana chethi todugulu teesivesadu, mariyu athanu daanini erpaatu chesinappudu, thana chetulu gaddakattinanduna athanu tirigi vellavalasi undani chushadu. vaaru sthaavaraaniki tirigi vacchaaru, mariyu vaariki aarohana mugisindi. athani vellanu manchu kottukuni shibiramlo chikitsa chesaaru, conny aaa taadu saricheyadam itara jatlu purogaminchadaaniki sahaayapadindi. marusati roeju, dusson podbevesec mariyu roman robas vaari sikharagra velampaatalo vijayam saadhinchaaru, conny rock towerlaloo tama marganni kolpoyaru, mariyu samayam kolpovadam valla kooda sthaavaraaniki tirigi ravalsi vachindi. dandayaatralo nalabhai rojula taruvaata, moodava prayatnam jernez "nezk" japlotnic mariyu iddaru sodarulu, marco mariyu andrez stremfelz chetha cheyabadindi. gaalulu garjistuu, adhirohakulanu neelapai padesi, manchutho vaari oopiritittulanu ukkiribikkiri chesaayi. chaalaa rojulu vishraanti lekunda gadipinappudu, saktivantamaina gaalulu mariyu-35 masim ushnogratato kalipi, mugguru venakki taggaaru, modata shibiram IVkii, taruvaata tirigi samuuham cheyadaaniki mariyu kolukovadaniki bays campku tirigi vellaaru.
mae 12 natiki mugguru tirigi shibiraniki cherukunnaru, marusati roeju maroe prayatnaaniki siddhamayyaru. andrez stremfelz modatlo thana sodarudito kalisi sikharaagraaniki cherukovalani akankshinchadu, conny marco yokka oxygen vyavastha mariyu backup ventilator rendoo viphalamayyayi mariyu athanu kindiki vellavalasi vachindi. andrage yokka backup ventilator kooda viphalamainappudu, mariyu paristhiti klishtamaina dasaku cherukunnappudu, japlotnic mariyu andrage vaegamgaa purogati saadhistuunae unnaaru. japlotnik thana chivari backup ventilatornu andrezku andinchaadu, conny adhi kooda hiss cheyadam praarambhinchindi. japlotnik andrageku thana sonta ventilator mariyu seesaalanu icchi, athanu thana venuka oka ventilator lekunda ekki velataanani cheppadu. japlotnic mallii tirogamanaanni pariganinchadaaniki siddhamgaa laedu, mariyu aaa roeju ataniki aamodayogyamaina phalitam sikharaagraaniki cherukovadam, thana praanaanni kooda panamgaa pettadaniki siddhamgaa undatam. adrushtavasaattuu, japlotnic chivari virigina backup ventilatornu tirigi pondagaligaadu. iddaru adhirohakulu manfreda taadu pettukunna niluvu chimney varaku konasagaru. japlotnic thana adhirohakulanu daaniki anusandhaaninchi, poga gottanni paiki lagaru. athanu mundunna galli loe rendu empikalanu chushadu, okati podbevsek mariyu robas daari tappina chota, mariyu marokati, idhi japlotnic mariyu andrage enchukunnaaru. kontha varaku oogipoyina taruvaata, vaaru 8,200 mariyu 8,600 meterla ettulo everest parvatapu pasupu pattiiloo tamanu taamu kanugonnaru. vaaru chaalaa chinna, kuppakuulipoetunna anchunu daati, vaati krinda 2,500 meterla sthala antharamtho, juuliyan alps loe intha pramaadakaramaina irukaina anchulanu elaa surakshitamgaa daatinaaro gurthu chesukunnaru. konni nitaruga unna vibhaagaalanu cheppulu lekunda ekkina japlotnic thana vellanu stambhimpajesaadu. athani chetilo cheyi virigipovadamto, paschima cwm akasmaattugaa athani vaipu parugettaadu, athanu kolukune varaku andrage atanni thaadutho pattukovadam praarambhinchaadu. konchem paiki, japlotnik paadaala adugu kooda virigindi mariyu athanu tirigi andrage kii jarukunnadu. munduku saagutuu, vaaru digadam gurinchi aandolana chendadam praarambhinchaaru, conny vaaru sikharaagraaniki cherukunnappudu daani gurinchi aalochinchagaligaaru. tvaralo, pogamanchu gundaa oka tripaada ravadam vaaru chuusaaru, 1975loe chaina brundam erpaatu chesinadi. paiki aalinganam chesukuni, vaaru chivaraku eee tripaada unna sikharaaniki cherukunnaru mariyu everest parvatam sikharaaniki cherukunna modati yugoslav alpinist ayyaru.
intalo, maroe muggurilo stipe bojik (mottam adhirohananu chithreekaristunna), staan belak mariyu sherpa guide aang phu unnaaru, veeriki idhi rendava adhirohana, idhi rendu ververu maargaala nundi alaa chesina modati vyaktigaa chestundi, eee udyogam athanu kooda cheyadaaniki ishtapadevaadu. vaaru naalugo shibiramlo oka roeju chedu vaataavaranam kosam vechi undi, japlotnik mariyu andrage marganni anusarinchadaaniki bayaludaeraaru. vaaru taruvaata konchem bhinnamaina marganni enchukunnaaru, hornbean kooloyirloki takkuva-nitaruga unna rock metlu mariyu 'american step' varaku prayaaninchaaru. ikkade aang phu thana rock-climbing naipunyaalu saripovani cheppi aagipovaalanukunnaadu. bojik ataniki kashtataramaina vishayaalalo sahayam chesaadu, mariyu mugguru ventane paina unnaaru, chitraalu teesaaru, jendaanu eguravesaaru mariyu radeo calls chesaaru. moodu slovenlu mariyu oka croat-naalugu yugoslavlu mottam everest parvatam yokka sikharaaniki cherukunnayi.
diguvaku digutundi.
japlotnic mariyu andrage avarohana kosam tama empikalanu charchinchaaru, mariyu vaaru vismarinchina empikalalo okati dakshina vaipu digadam, idhi daani maranaaniki prasiddhi chendina dakshina cole maargam. hornbean coolire nundi digadam uttama empikagaa anipinchindi, aaa taruvaata vaaru tama sahacharulu vechi unna shibiram IV vaipu sulabhamaina bhuubhaagam gundaa velataaru. munduku velle maargam nitaruga, bahirgatamgaa mariyu kashtamgaa undedi. vaaru tama oxygen maasklanu dharinchi, baivovaaknu nivaarinchadaaniki veelainanta takkuva taadunu upayoginchadaaniki angeekarinchaaru. vaaru pasupu pattiiloo niluvu chimneeki cherukunnaru. japlotnic oka bandapai nundi nishkraminchaadu, conny andrage yokka pyaak frame chimneelo chikkukundi mariyu athanu padipoyadu, kindaku padipoyadu mariyu konda tippadam dwara vaegamgaa kindaku digaadu. andrage 50 nundi 60 meterla dhooram padipoyina taruvaata tananu taanu rakshinchukogaligaadu, thana goddalini vaalu meeda kottadam atadiki saadhyamainanta kashtamaindi. alasipoyina iddaru adhirohakulu naalugo shibiraniki cherukovadamto, appatike raatri padipoyindi, vaari headlamplu merisipoyayi, ushnograta padipoyindi mariyu vaaru daari tappaaru. chivariki vaaru shibiram sameepamlo vaari sahacharulu kanugonnaru mariyu vishraanti teesukovachhu.
rendu rojula taruvaata, bojik taruvaata, belak mariyu phu sikharaaniki cherukunnaru, mariyu vaari avarohana kosam kooda pranaalika veyavalasi vachindi. vaari 12 gantala adhirohana samayamlo manchu tuphaanu vachindi, mariyu 'american step' nuu digadam kashtam. balamaina gaalulato bahirgatamaina sthithilo bojik nii pinn chesi araganta paatu irukkupooyaadu. vaari praanavaayuvu ayipoyindi mariyu teevramaina jalubu vaari shareera vaedini tolaginchindi. bays campnu radeo coll cheyadaaniki belac prayatninchaadu, conny evarinee cherukolekapoyadu. digutunnappudu, vaataavaranam twaragaa ksheeninchindi mariyu brundam cheekati padaka mundu 4va shibiraniki tirigi raalekapoyindi mariyu 8,400 meterla ettulo-40 masim ushnogratalo, gudaralu ledhaa sleeping bags lekunda raatri gadapavalasi vachindi. bojik prakaram, aaa samayamlo idhi bahiranga pradaesamloe ratriputa atyadhika bivovac, mariyu athanu maranaaniki atyanta daggaragaa unnadu. vaaru aaa raatri batiki undagaligaaru, conny marusati roeju, aang phu jaaripadi hornbean coolire gundaa velli maraninchaadu. athanu manchu goddalini upayoginchi tananu taanu rakshinchukovadaaniki prayatninchaadu, conny 2000 meterla podavaina patanam samayamlo adhi athani chethi nundi jaaripoyindi. oka snehitudi maranam yaatralooni sabhyulanu teevramgaa debbateesindi, kabatti vaaru parvatamlo anni karyakalapalanu nilipivesi, mae 21naa bays camp nundi bayaludaeraaru. yaatralooni sabhyulu mae 26,1979naa yugoslaviaku tirigi vacchaaru.
pratispandanalu.
yugoslaviaku dandayaatra tirigi ravadam vijayavantamaindi. jagreb yokka anni kaalaalaloonuu atipedda parvataaroohana samavesam 1979 aktobaru 9naa jarigindi-everest parvataanni jayinchina croatian himalayan vinadaniki mariyu chuudataaniki 3,500 mandhi prajalu lisinsky haalku vacchaaru. daadaapu veyyi mandhi prajalu nindina haall talupula mundu undipoyaaru. appati nundi, lisinskylo dandayaatralapai upanyaasaalu ivvadam oka sampradaayamgaa maarindi, mariyu ippati varaku sumaru padihenu jarigaayi. stipe bojik everest parvataanni adhirohinchina modati croat ayyadu, mariyu athani dandayaatralanu chithreekarinchaalane nirnayam croatian radeo televisionlo aneka documentarylu mariyu sholaku darsakudigaa athani vruttini ekkuvagaa nirnayinchindi. eee vijayam taruvaata, parvataaroohana yaatralaku aardhika sahayam cheyadaaniki raashtraaniki aasakti ledhu. eee krindi dandayaatralu ganatantra mariyu praantiiya swabhaavaanni kaligi unnaayi.
slovenialoni lublianalo jarigina parvataaroohana utsavamlo eee yaatra daani 40va vaarshikotsavam sandarbhamgaa ghnaapakam cheyabadindi. sikharaaniki cherukunna naluguru adhirohakulu mariyu yaatralooni aneka mandhi itara sabhyulu 2019 marchi 14naa croatialooni carlovaclo samavesamayyaru, akkada vaaru chaaritraatmaka aarohana gurinchi tama ghnaapakaalanu vivarinchaaru.

