
tomm gilbe (designer)

tomm gilbe (19 mae 1938-24 mae 2017) 1960la naati telivaina varusa tailoringtho sambandham unna british fyaashan designer. athani namuunaalu fyaashan museum, baath loe pradarsinchabaddaayi mariyu victoria & albert museum mariyu london museum sekaranalalo unnaayi.
prarambha jeevitam.
tomm gilby landanlooni nyuu cross loe oka sraamika-taragati kutumbamlo janminchi perigaaru. athanu padihenu samvatsaraala vayassulo paatasaalanu vidichipettadu.
vrutti.
gilby 1960laloe fyaashan parisramalo pravesinchaaru.
majer tomm' anae sheershikato london portraitlo rabin dutt raasina oka vyaasamlo, gilby 'aravailu teevramaina tejassu mariyu bhayankaramaina tappula dasaabdam-aaa rojullo prati okkaroo evaro okaru, mariyu evarainaa evaruu kaadu' anie gurthu chesukunnaru.'
oka yuva designer gaa gilbe thana prarambha rojula gurinchi, pani cheyadaaniki velladam anae paerutoe oka bbc documentarylo, dhi ryag trade perkondi.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.'neenu dakshina landanlooni oka chinna, bespoke varkshaaplo praarambhinchaanu, mariyu cutting mariyu tailoring neerchukunnaanu.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.anni aacharanaatmaka mariyu saanketika vaipu.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.akkadi nundi neenu shordich dustula kalasalalo chadivaanu'. chinna vayassulo nokki chebutuu, nijamaina garment gilbenu utpatti chese aacharanaatmakatalu sambhaavya designerlaku telivigaa salaha istayi.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.'kaagitampai sketchlu mariyu vastuvulu cheyadam manchidi, conny meeru kuurchuni mea phaaram teesukoni mea line pondaali, mariyu meeru oka yantrakaaruniki teliyajeyaalsinadi idhe'.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.
richard walker raasina eee pustakamlo oka iconoclast gaa varninchabadina, gilby 1968loe taanu pravesinchina prapanchaanni vivarinchaadu; 'idhi oka peddamanishi prapancham, oka peddamanishi club'. 
1920laloe seadier west end clublanu niyantrinchina maasini sodarula pradhana karyalayamga unna oka chirunamalo sackville veedhiloo unna tomm, suut mariyu paataala prapanchaaniki avasaramaina amarikala sankhya madhya sambandhaanni vivarinchaaduh '.anie paerkonnaaru.mariyu venuka, ledhaa muulaloe, vaerae edho untundi-chaalaa sandarbhaallo dozenla koddi amarikalu ikkade nundi vachayi. 
tailoring mariyu paataala prapanchaaniki madhya unna eee sambandhaanni vistaristuu, tomm ilaa konasaginchaduh 'tailor dukaanamloo all capone vanti chikago mushkarulu, anni charyalanu venuka bhaagamlo unchutaaru
appudu eee andamaina varusa praantaaniki kottagaa pravesinchina vaari gurinchi matladutu, gilbe "dhi independent" loe vyaakhyaanistuu, mea daggara tommy nattar, rupert lyset green, maikhel fish mariyu neenu unnaamu.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru. tommy nattar oka tailor mariyu kattar kaadu. athanu ammakaala vaipu nundi vacchaadu."
1967loe rodney bennet-ingland raasina dustulu aichhikam; purushula dustulalo viplavam anae pustakamlo athani roopakalpana tatvasaastram gurinchi gilbe oka prarambha gurtunu unchutuu, "gatamlo kante ekkuva mandhi prajalu pani chestunnaru, inca kashtamgaa kooda unnaaru" anie chepparu. vaaru dharinchagalige mariyu marchipoleni dustulu vaaru korukuntaru, conny sarigga kanipinche mariyu pani cheyadaaniki vaariki sahayapade dustulu. atuvanti dustulu kadalika soulabhyam, sulabhamaina samrakshana lakshanaalu, design saralatapai praadhaanyata kaligi undaali."
1968 mae nela tomm gilbe modati vastradhaarana karyakramam gamanikalalo, gilbe thana tatvaanni 'tomm gilbe concept' loe vistarinchaaduh 'vann-cases-menship anedi manam elaa dustulu dharinchaalo takshana maargadarsakam. battalu teelikagaa mariyu parasparam marchukogaligeviga undaali, conny sarigga samanvayam cheyabadi undaali, tadwara oka vyakti yokka praathamika dustulu aneka prayojanaalanu kaligi untaayi; avi atanni, tarachugaa maarchaalsina avasaram lekunda, kashtapadi panicheyadam nundi kashtapadi adatam varaku teesukoovaali.anie.
rave sameekshalu gilbe yokka modati purushula vastraala sekarananu anusarinchaayi, vaatilo christopher ward inn dhi dialy mirror, gilbenu 'britton yokka marinta avant gaard designerlalo okaru' gaa prakatinchindi.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.'pooloo-meda, pilli suut mariyu zip-up jacketku maargadarsakudu'
athani 1968 suut victoria & albert museum sekaranalo undhi, daani gurinchi vraastuu, "pattu rolneck chokkaatho dharinchina eee suut 1960la taruvaati anadhikaarika dustula niyamaavaliki udaaharana. chokka mariyu taini bharti cheyalane viplavaatmaka aalochana telivigala varusa samsthalaku kooda cherukundi. gilbe bhavishyat design kosam zip chesina mundu mariyu paaket fasteninglanu kaligi unna saampradaaya tweednu upayogistundi."anie paerkonnaaru.
london museumlo 1969 suut sackville veedhilooni gilbe dukaanam nundi vachindi, akkada daaniki naalugu amarikalu avasaramayyayi. 1969 aktobaru 8naa newyork nundi southampton varaku prayaanistunna raani elizabeth II paie kepten table vadda vindu kosam dheenini dharinchela chesaaru-"dharinchinavaaru taruvaata thana empika gurinchi vicharam vyaktam chesaaru, idhi vindu jacketlu pramaanamgaa unna adhikaarika sandarbhamlo puurtigaa sthalam lekunda kanipinchindi."
ayithe, adhe samvatsaram mexico nagaramloni cliff waller gurinchi gilbe cheppinatlugaah 'oka vyakti dustulu dhariste ellappuduu marinta soukaryavantamgaa untaadu-athanu dharinchina dustulu kaadu
gilbe yokka 1970 pradarsana nundi marinta saanukuula sameekshalu vachayi. joolailo, saayantram pramaanaalu nivedinchayih "mruduvugaa, alasataga-idhe sandesam. landanlooni atyanta vijayavantamaina mariyu sthiramgaa aasaktikaramaina purushula dustula designerlalo okaraina tomm gilby, purushula dustulu mandakodigaa, muudigaa mariyu murikigaa undaalani chepparu.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.athani vastraala sekaranalo pradarsinchabadina-mea chokka pyantu periginatlu kanipinche tellani jump suut.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.sudeergha vaedi vesavi kosam soukaryavantamaina dustulu-mariyu taginanta murikigaa.
adhe nela taruvaata, purushula dustula patrika 'prati sandarbhaaniki gilbe' anae sheershikato oka vyaasamlo nivedinchindi, 'idhi annintikante minchi, vaastavikatanu tyaagam cheyakunda nijamgaa dharinchagalige designla sekarana. rome mariyu paris looni fyaashan nipunulu vaari madhya edainaa merugaina utpatti chesthe neenu aascharyapotaanu.anie.
1970la praarambhamlo, snooker aatagadu alex higgins bambeloni nindina haallo match aadutunnappudu gilbe dustulanu dharinchaadu. air conditioning lekunda adhika ushnogratalalo, hygines adhi saripodani bhaavinchi, athanu kottina prati bantitoe "maroe enimidi ounsula baruvutho chematalu pattaru".
1995loe athani varudi dustulalo okadaanni catherine rainer vedding gountho paatu, 1995 samvatsaraaniki fyaashan museum, baath loe dustulanu suuchimchadaaniki empika chesaaru. ayana mukhyamgaa nadumu kotu roopakalpanaku prasiddhi chendaaru.
1999loe rock shaililo joshuva simsnu gurthuchesukuntu, gilbe thana sudeergha kereer nundi aneka kathalanu gurtuchesukuntaduh 'bill hayley britanku vachhe varaku teddy boys architipal rafianga maaraledu. antaku mundu idhi bhangimalo undatam gurinchi, conny sangeetam prajalaku dukaanam kitikeelalo mimmalni meeru chuustuu ooreginchadam tappa vaerae dustulu dharinchadaaniki oka kaaranaanni ichindi.anie.
beatles gurinchi vaaru pier cardin nundi aaa collar laeni roopaanni dongilinchaarani cheppadam sarainde anie neenu bhaavistunnaanu. conny vaari roopaanni daani nundi abhivruddhi chesaaru. aaa samayamlo neenu vaari kosam itara funny kaalarlanu tayaaru cheyadamlo nimagnamai unnaanu, 'sahayam' kosam topeelu tayaaru chesaanu.
mode look oka vidhamgaa chaalaa functionalga undhi. bumm-freezer jackett daani double ventsto scooterpy kuurchoevadaaniki veelu kalpinchindi. idhi british vaeta jackett nundi udbhavinchindi, vaastavaaniki 
kinks kosam oka roopaanni roopondinchamani nannu adigaru mariyu vaari juttu kattirimpulatoe regency look untundani nirnayinchukunnaaru, kabatti neenu aaa adhika collar jaaketlanu tayaaru chesi vaatini frilly-front shartulatho unchaanu. alaa chesinanduku neenu ippatikee £1,500 runapadi unnaanu 
antarjaateeya designerla samachara mariyu khachitamaina sankalanam ayina fyaashan book, gilbe yokka vruttini eee vidhamgaa sangrahinchindih 'athani trademark saralata mariyu daadaapu sainika chakkadanamtho, gilbe 1960laloe purushula dustulalo oka mukhyamaina saktigaa undedi.anie paerkonnaaru.anie paerkonnaaru.fyaashan daarsanikulalo gilbe okaru.
vyaktigata jeevitam.
gilbeeki rendava vivaham 2005loe kensington mariyu chelsiyaaloni saahitya pratinidhi saalii rileetho jarigindi. eee janta londonlo nivasinchaaru mariyu ail off vaitlo rendava illu kaligi unnaaru.
ayana 2017 mae 24naa 79 samvatsaraala vayasulo cancertho maraninchaaru.

