
fritts wisner

fritts wiesner (februvari 26,1900-juulai 3,1988) swatantra malakayattatthinte oru jarmman american pioneeraayirunnu. germmaniyile dresdonil janicha addeham 1929ll newyork nagaratthilekku kudiyerukayum yuu. eiii. yilek maarukayum cheythu.ezz. 1935-ll pouranaaya addeham 1939-ll lokathile ettavum budhimuttulla parvathangalilonnaya keey2 kayaran nadatthiya aadyakaala sramangalilonnu nadatthi.
aadyakaalangal.
onnaam lokamahaayudhathinu munbu wiesner pithavinoppam austriyan alpsil kayaran thudangi. 12-aamm vayassil addeham germmaniyile ettavum uyaram koodiya kodumudiyaaya sugspitse kayari. 1920kalil addeham saxonyilum dolomiteukalilum haard climbing roottukal sthaapichu, innathe budhimuttu rating 5.11 vare. athu amerikkayile ettavum budhimuttulla free climbing grade 5.7 ayirunna samayathaayirunnu. 25-aamm vayassil, addeham tyrolile "fleeshbankil" aadyamaayi kayarukayum akkaalat nadatthiya ettavum kadinamaaya paara kayaral ennu prakhyapikkukayum cheythu.
parvathaarohanatthil vaisnarude shaareerikagunangal asaadhaaranamaayirunnu. avan uyaramullavan charivulla tholum pokkamullavanumaayirunnu. vishalavum souhaarddaparavumaaya oru punchiriyundaayirunna addehathinte prathyekatha vishalamaaya villal allengil akalam kuranja, kayattam aayirunnu, saankethika vaidagdhyavum asaadhaaranamaaya shakthiyum aavashyappedunna oru saankethikavidya.
oru puthiya maanadandam.
1931-ll, american alpine klabbile amgangalumaayi wiesner bandhappedukayum udan thanne american roock climbingle oru puthiya maanadandam sthaapikkukayum cheythu. vadakke amerikkayiludaneelam, parukkan parvatham (connecticut); peeranki parvatham (nyoo hamshire); walface parvatham, newyork adirondac parvathangal; moundu rushmore naashanal memorial, southu dakota; devils tower, vyoming (aadyathe swatantra kayattam); britiish kolambiyayile moundu waddington thudangiya malakayatta pradeshangalil addeham aadya kayattangalude ganyamaaya pattika sthaapichu.
1935ll hudson nadiyile breakneck ridjil kayarumbol, akaleyulla shaavaangankukalude thilangunna velutha kwaartsait parakal wiesner kandu. adutha vaaraanthyathil addeham aakarshakamaaya paarakalkkaayi purappedukayum udan thanne pradeshathe ettavum uyaram koodiya sthalamaaya ippol "milbrook parvvatham" ennariyappedunna oru malancherivu kayarukayum cheythu. joonn, peggy nawaz ennivarodoppam addeham ippol pazhaya root 5.5 ennu peritta oru root sthaapichu, ithu shaavaangankukalile aadyathe saankethika paara kayaralaanu, angane cheiyunnathu eee pradeshathe paara kayarunnavarkkulla oru makkayayi sthaapikkaan sahayichu.
palappozhum saha kudiyettakkaaranaaya hans krousumaayi sahakarichu, wiesner, innum janapriyamaaya (bhayappeduthunna) niravadhi malakayatangal ulppede niravadhi aadya kayatangal sthaapichu. orupakshe avarude ettavum ariyappedunna samyuktha parisramam valare janapriyamaaya "hye exposure" buttress 5.6 aanu, ithu 1941 ll avar aadyamaayi oru chana kayar moonnu mriduvaaya irumbu pittanukalum upayogichu kayari. gankkukalile mattu sradheyamaaya wiesner aadya kayattangalil iva ulppedunnu "gargoyal" 5.5, "hye traverse" 5.5, "vaitt pillar" 5.7, "bebi" 5.6, "frogs head" 5.6; "gelsa" 5.4, "hye corner" 5.7, "yello ridge" 5.7.1946 ll addeham "miinii belle" yeei nayichu, gankkukalile aadyathe 5.8.
1935ll wiesner connectikkattil "vector" enna peril oru kayattam sthaapichu."5.8.
roock climbing cheyyumbol, wiesner palappozhum thudakkakkaarumaayum prathyekichu sthreekalumaayum jodiyakkaarundaayirunnu. addeham ellaayppozhum pradhana parvathaarohakanaakaan nirbandhichu (oru nethaavinte pathanam muzhuvan partic eluppathil vinaashakaramaanennu theliyikkaavunna oru kaalaghattatthil, "nethaavu orikkalum veezharuthu" ennathaayirunnu aaa divasathe pazhanchollu). hans krousine kandumuttya sesham addeham thante "leed-climb onli" bharanam (krausum athu sveekarichirunnu) laghookarikkukayum iruvarum thulyapankaalikalenna nilayil kayarukayum cheythu.
keey2 paryaveshanam.
1939-ll, keey 2-lekkulla oru nirbhagyakaramaaya american paryaveshanathinu addeham neethrthwam nalki, thirike pokendivarunnathinu munbu kodumudiyude 700 adikkullil ethi. kayarunnathinte budhimuttukal marikadannu, bakkiyullava nereyaayirunnuvenkilum, thante sherpayay passang daava lamayude aagrahangale maanichukondu thaan thirinjuvennu wiesner vivarichu. dudley wolfinte nashtam eee paryaveshanatthe kalankappeduthi, kayattathekkurichulla prarambha vivaranagal kooduthalum paryaveshana nethaavu vaisnarine kuttappeduthumbol, 1956 leeii oru lekhanathil wiesner pakaram jacq durancine vimarshichu. 1989ll durance thante vyakthigatha paryaveshana dayari puratthirakkaan bodhyappettappol eee vivaadam pariharikkappedum, ithu party upanethaavu tonny cromvelinteyum vaisnarinteyum paraajayangale kuttappedutthi. 1954 juulai 31 vare aarum parvathatthinte mukalilekku vannilla, 1954 leeii itaaliyan karakkoram paryaveshanatthil lino lazedelli achille compagnony aadyathe kayattamundakki.
kayarathavar.
amerikkayile thante aadya varshangalil, wiesner vandar vaaks ennariyappedunna vyaapakamaayi upayogikkunna skee vaaks ulppede mezhukukalil vaidagdhyam nediya oru kemikkal kambani sthaapichu. 1930kalile mahaamaandyakaalathu addeham thante kambani vijayakaramaayi vikasippichu.
wiesner oru vidagdha skier koodiyaayirunnu. yuu. esinu vendi poraadaan anuvadikkaathathil addeham niraashanaayirunnathaayi reportund.ezz. randaam lokamahaayudhathil, pakaram patthaam parvathavibhaagatthinte saankethika upadeshtaavaayum washington dii. siyile yunaittad stetts aarmiyude quartermaster generalinte offeesinte "sheetakaala kaalaavasthaasampradeshangal upakarana kammeeshan" ennathinum sevanamanushtichu.
pinneedulla varshangal.
enpathukal vare sajeevamaaya oru parvatharohakanaayi thudarnna wiesner, palappozhum thante aadyakaala pathakal ottaykku sanjarichukondu shaavaangankukalile kaazhchakkaare athbhuthappeduthi. poornnachandrante velichathil aakaashat "gargoyal" kayarunnath addeham eshtappettu.
orikkal, 1970 kalude madhyathil valare cheruppakkaaranaaya oru parvathaarohakanodoppam kayarumbol, ilaya parvathaarohakan aadya pichine nayikkukayum aazhchayude thudakkathil thaan ottaykku root cheythathayi vaisnerinodu parayukayum cheythu. "aahu, ningal manoharamaaya kooval kayaranam!"wiesner paranju. thudarnnu addeham randaam pichilekku leed nedi, oru samrakshanavum nalkaathe-pitch phalapradamaayi ottaykku. thante pankaali mukalilethiyappol fritts gauravathode chirichu. "enikkum nannayi kayaranam", wiesner (appol 70kalude madhyathil) paranju. (eee kathayude uravidam gaii waterman aanu).
vyakthiparamayi.
1945ll addeham muriel skoonmekkare vivaham kazhichu. 1946ll avarude makan andrew janichu. 1947ll avarude makal poolin (poolii) janichu. makalum makan pinneedu niravadhi paryaveshanagalilum malakayatta yaathrakalilum pithaavine anugamichu. jeevithakalam muzhuvan fritsinte vishwasthanaaya kayattam, scrambling, skiing koottaaliyaayirunnu muriel.
1952-ll, wissner kudumbam vermontile stovilekku thamasam maari, avide fritts thante jeevithathinte avasaanam vare thamasikkum. 88-aamm vayassil niravadhi strockukalkku sesham wiesner marichu.

