
sikka asher

sikka asher (3 epril 1910-5 septambar 1992), sickmund asher aayi janikkukayum "dhii maadu silkman" ennu vilipperulla oru check tekstail bisinasukaaranum kalakaran designarumaayirunnu, addeham britiish textiles, art, fashion ennee anubandha mekhalakalil pramukhanaayi. samakaalika kalakaaranmaar roopakalppana cheytha pareekshanathmaka thunitharangalum scarfukalum upayogichu addeham svanthamaayi tekstail kambani srishtichu.
pashchaathalavum kudumbavum.
praagile sambannanaaya jootha thunithara vyavasaayikalude kudumbathilaanu asher janichathu. vijayakaramaya yuva skiing chaambyanaayi addeham mikavu pulartthukayum tekstail bisinasukaaranaayi thante currier aarambikkukayum cheythu. 1939 februvariyil addeham thante bhaarya lida vivaham kazhichu, ludmila janicha tidlittattova (* 1913 pragu), oru catholica kudumbatthil ninnu vanna 6 makkalil (3 penmakkal) ilayavalaayi, secondary school oof tradil ninnum ekkanomiyil ninnum vidyaabhyaasam nedi. checoslovakia germmaniyude adheenathayilaayathinaal athe varsham thanne avar englandilekku thamasam maari. 1940ll sikka britiish sainyathil chernnu. 1942ll sikka lida asher chernnu asher (lunden) limittad enna peril svanthamaayi tekstail kambani sthaapichu. taamasiyaathe avar oru bandhuvaya, ernest "enda" aasharumaayi sahakarichu, avar oru kalaa bisinasukaaranaayi paareesil sthirathaamasamaakkukayum vyapara bandhangalil avare sahayikkukayum cheythu. ashermark amerikkayil thamasikkunna peettar enna oru makan undaayirunnu.
henry muur thunitharangal.
britiish kalakaaranaaya henry muur roopakalppana cheytha ganyamaaya ennam asher thunitharangal vii & eiii shekharathil sookshichirikkunnu. 1944 muthal 1946 vare sikka asher designukal kammeeshan cheythu. 1945 meyy maasathil landanile dorchester hotelil asher achadicha henry muur thunitharangalude aadya shekharam avatharippichu. henry muur foundeshan 2009 ll anita feldman syoo prichard chernnu "henry muur textiles" enna peril oru pusthakam prasidheekarichu, athil henry muur roopakalppana cheytha asher thunitharangalude vipulamaaya paraamarshangalum udaaharanangalum adangiyirikkunnu. 2008ll henry muur foundeshanil nadanna oru pradarshanathodanubandhichaanu eee pusthakam prasidheekarichathu, athu pinneedu paryadanatthinu pooyi. britiish kalayekkurichulla pramukha prasadhakanaaya lund humphries aanu pusthakam prasidheekarichathu.
henry muur thunitharangalum scarfukalum roopakalppana cheythathinushesham 65 varshathinide ashermar nirmmicha naalu udaaharanagal maathrame undaayittulloo aadyathethu 1980 kalude avasaanathilaanu sikka asher munbu achadichittillaatha rund designukal achadichathu. randaamathethu henry muur foundeshan perry greenil kalakarante veettil kaalakramena mangiya vividha curton thunitharangal veendum achadikkaan aasharmaarod aavasyappettappozhaanu. moonnaamathethu tettu modenile giftt shopinaayi muur scarfukalude punarmudranamaayirunnu, 2010 ll avar kalakarante srishtiyekkurichu oru pradhana munkaala avalokanangal sthaapichappol. naalaamathethu 2011 leeii vasanta/venalkkaalath sikka aasharinte kochumakan saam aasharinte aadya scarf shekharathinte bhaagamaayirunnu, athil muur, graham sn, mattu kalakaaranmaar ennivarude chila archive designukal pradharshippichirunnu.
swaadheenam.
kristhyan deor, christobal balenziaga, yavs seyint laurent thudangiya pradhana vasthranirmmaathaakkalude shekharangalil sikka aasharinte ganyamaaya swaadheenam jaine mulvaaginte (landan wiking pengvin, 1988) "irupathaam noottaandile faashante wog histtari" yill udharichirikkunnu. 1950-kalil asher manoharamaaya rooss printed thuni roopakalppana cheythathinu sesham kristhyan deor aasharine "misttar rooss pompam" ennu vilikkukayum deor venalkkaala howt coacher shekharathil ithu vyaapakamaayi upayogikkukayum cheythu. "apollo magazin" lunden 1987-ll asharinekkurichulla aarr pejulla oru monograph prasidheekarichu. 1986-leeii leone silk myoosiyathil balensiagayude srishtiyude aadya pradhana munkaala avalokanathil addehathinte srishtikal pradharshippichu. aadyathe joonn galiano shekharangalilonnaaya "less incroables", vellathil nananja niravadhi yardukal asher cream cheescloth avatharippichu.
1992-leeii 'dhii indipendant' enna kruthiyile oru anushochanam, shaggy moherukal aadyamaayi vitharanam cheythuvennu mathramalla, 1950-kalude avasaanathilum 60-kalude madhyathilum kaattvaakkukalil cheesklothukalum romaantik lessie thunitharangalum avatharippichathaayum aasharinu credit nalkunnu.
asher padhathi.
samakaalika kalaye adisthaanamaakkiyulla noothana thunitharangal srishtikkunnathinulla asher project ennu annu ariyappettirunna ithu, vivara manthraalayathinte prachaarana samrambhavumayi chernnu "theruvile manushyan" aadhunika kalaye parichayappeduthunnathinaayi nadannu. 1944-leeii deseeya galleryile yudhachithrangalil henry moorinte paintingukalum deseeya gallery murikalil sikka asher sanjarichukondirikkunnathu drishyangalum moorinte srishtikal parishodhikkunna drishyangalum ulppedunnu. ellaavarkkum prapyamaaya oru oorjjaswalamaaya puthiya design bhasha srishtikkunna muur designing scarfukal, curton thunitharangal, dress thunitharangal enniva aasharinu adhikam naalukalillaayirunnu.
asher scarfukal.
1946-ll asher paareesilekk pooyi, kaphe duu rondu pooyint dess chaambyans-eliseesile oru telephone upayogichu, pablo picaso, henry maattis, andrey derrine allengil alexander calder ennu vilikkunnu. "avarellaavarum sikka aasharine avare kaanaan kshanichu", lassie davis "sanday telegraph" (stella magazin, november 2010) ll ezhuthi. oduvil, 51 pramukha franch, engleesh kalakaaranmaar aasharinaayi scarfukal roopakalppana cheythu. avaye "aarttistukalude squareukal" ennu vilikkukayum yudhathinu thottupinnaale mattu vasthukkalude kuravu kaaranam palappozhum rayonil achadikkukayum cheythu. 1946 num 1955 num idayil kalakaaranmaare niyogichu; mikkavarum oru scarf design maathrame sambhavana cheythulloo, ennaal mattullavar, udaaharanathinu naalo athiladhikamo (felix topolsky) vare roopakalppana cheytha sessil beettan. avayellaam parimitha pathippukalayi achadikkappedukayum phine art lelathil thudarnnum labikkukayum cheiyunnu.
asher fashion thunitharangal.
1957ll kaikondu nirmmicha moher thunitharangal hoott kocharilekku avatharippikkunnathinte utharavaaditham sikka aasharinu aayirunnu. akkaalat, asher polulla tekstail houseukal vasthranirmmaathaakkalkk dvivarsha shekharangal sammanikkukayum avar vaagdaanam cheiyunnathil ninnu avarude thunitharangal thiranjedukkukayum cheyyum. aaa varsham franch fashion house lanvin-kaasttillooyude sharatkaala-shaityakaala shekharathinaayi antonio dell kaastilloyaanu asher mohair aadyamaayi upayogichathu. aasharinte kaikondu tuff cheytha mohair thunitharangalkku niravadhi varshangalayi valia demand undaayirunnu, udaaharanathinu 1964 leeii balenziaga sharatkaala-shaityakaala shekharathil avaa ulppeduthiyittundu. asher pacha, chuvapp, pink kaikondu tuff cheytha mohair thuni upayogichu christobal balenziaga roopakalppana cheytha oru kottu 1964 novemberil franch wog enna pusthakatthinte puramchattayil pradharshippichu.
1969-ll asher oru "dispossible" paper thuni pareekshichu, athu keerathirikkaan paryapthamaaya prathirodhasheshiyullathaakku. addeham selia birtwell kammeeshan cheyyukayum avalude happy bubble design nirmmikkukayum cheythu-ithu oassi clark roopakalppana cheytha oru prashastha minidress aayi nirmmichu. vii & eiii museum pusthakamaaya "aashar fabric, art, fashion" ennathinte 96-aamm pejile oru foto lucian froyidinte oru crape dii chainees fabric design kaanikkunnu. adhehavum akkaalathe mattu mikacha kalakaaranmaarum asher printinginteyum kalar maachinginteyum gunanilavaarathil vishwaasam arppichu. "sikka asher niyogicha kalaakaaranmaarkk avarude srishtikal samvedanakshamathayode vyaakhyaanikkaanum naipunyathode aavarthikkaanum bhagyamundaayi...uyarnna nilavaaramulla achadiyilum krithyamaaya kalar matchingilum sikka asher nirbandham pidichu; roopakalppanayum achadicha thunitharavum krithyamaayi kanakkakkunnathuvare pareekshanangal thudarnnu."(valeri dii. mendus aandu frances emm. hinchcliffe)
paarambaryamaayi.
aasharinte paarambaryam bharikkunath avarude eaka makanaaya peettaraanu. valery dii. aasharinteyum bhaarya lidayudeyum pravarthanangalekkurichu 264 pejulla oru pusthakam. mendus aandu frances emm. 1987ll aasharmaarude srishtikalude munkaala pradarshanathodanubandhichu landanile victoria aandu albert museum (vii & eiii) lida aasharumaayi sahakarichu hinchcliffe prasidheekarichu. " enna thalakkett, eee moonnu anubandha mekhalakalile avarude nettangalude vyaapthi vivarikkunnu. sika aasharinte moonnu photographic chhaayaachithrangal landanile deseeya chhaayaachithra galleryile shekharathil sookshichirikkunnu; randennam joonn geyum moonnaamathethu francis goodman. praagile museum oof uplied arts 2019 maarchil "силени четтоманич" (engleeshil "dhii maadu silkman") enna peril oru valia gaveshanavum pradarshanavum samghadippichu. 2019 septambaril prakshepanam cheiyunna sikka asharinekkurichulla oru sinimaykku check tivi thayyaaredukkunnu.

