
1953-leeii american karakkoram paryaveshanam

bhoomiyile randaamathe uyaram koodiya parvathamaaya 8,611 meter uyaramulla keey2 lekkulla parvathaarohana paryaveshanamaayirunnu 1953 leeii american karakkoram paryaveshanam. keey2 pareekshikkunathinulla anchaamathe paryaveshanavum randaam lokamahaayudhathinu sheshamulla aadyathethumaayirunnu ithu. chaals hoosttaninte neethrthwathilulla oru american samgham parvathatthinte thekk-kizhakk spurr (saadhaaranayaayi abruzi spurr ennariyappedunnu) akkaalat asaadhaaranamaamvidham bharam kuranja shailiyil pareekshichu. team 7750 meter uyarathil athiyengilum avarude uyarnna campil oru kodunkaattil kudungi, avide oru team amgamaaya art gilki gurutharamaayi rogabaadhithanaayi. parvathatthil ninnu oru nirashaajanakamaaya pinvaangal thudarnnu, eee samayat parvathaarohakaril oraalozhike ellaavarum peett sconing thadavilaakkiya veezhchayil kollappedukayum pinneedu gilki prathyakshatthil himapaathathil marikkukayum cheythu. gilkiye rakshikkanulla shramathil parvathaarohakar kaanicha dhairyathinum team spirittinum athu valarthiya souhrudabandhangalkkum eee paryaveshanam parakke prashamsikkappettittund.
pashchaathalam.
1953 aayappozhekkum naalu paryaveshanangal keey2 kayaran shramichu. 1902lum 1909lum yathaakramam ooskaar ekkanstain, luigi amedio ennee abruzi prabhukkanmaar paryaveshanangalkk neethrthwam nalkukayum iva randum kaaryamaaya purogathi kaivarichilla, koodaathe abruzi prabhuvum thante sramathinu sesham parvatham orikkalum kayarillennu prakhyaapichirunnu. ennirunnaalum, 1938lum 1939lum nadanna rund american paryaveshanangal vijayathilekku adukkukayaayirunnu. charakk vitharanathil kuravum mosham kaalaavasthayude bheeshaniyum kaaranam pinvaangunnathinumbu, chaals hoosttaninte 1938 leeii paryaveshanam 8000 meettaril tholil athunna, kodumudiyilekkulla oru paathayaayi abruzi sparinte saadhyatha sthaapichu. 1939leeii american karakkoram paryaveshanatthil fritts wissnerude sramam athilum uyarnnathaanengilum naalu pere parvathatthil ninnu kaanaathaayathode duranthatthil avasaanichu. durantham undaayirunnittum, keey2 kayarunnath oru yaadhaarthyabodhamulla lakshyamaanennu paryaveshanangal theliyichirunnu, randaam lokamahaayudhavum 1947 leeii intho-paakistaan yudhavum 1940 kalil kashmeerilekkulla yaatra asaadhyamaakkiyillaayirunne kooduthal sramangal theerchayaayum nadakkumaayirunnu.
paryaveshana aasoothranam.
rashtreeya budhimuttukal neridiyittum, chaals hoosttanum roobert bettsum 1938-leeii prarambha sramam muthal keey 2-lake madangivarumenna prateeksha nilanirtthiyirunnu, 1952-ll hoosttan, addehathinte suhruthu avra emm. vaaran, yuu.ezz. adutha varsham paakkisthaanile ambasseder oru paryaveshanathinu anumathi nedi. 
pinneedu alpine shaili ennariyappettathinte niravadhi gadakangal ulppeduthi, bharam kuranja onnaayi hyoosttanum bettsum eee paryavekshanam aasoothranam cheythu. ithinu praayogika kaaranangalum stailistik kaaranangalum undaayirunnu. vibhajanathinushesham, parambaraagathamaayi himalayan paryaveshanangalil portermaaraayi sevanamanushtichirunna indian sherpakalkk paakisthaanil ishtamallaayirunnu, avarkk pakaram varunna hunsa portermaaril chilarkk maathrame yadhaartha parvathaarohana vaidagdhyamundaayirunnula. abruzi sparinte saankethika budhimuttu kanakkiledukkumbol parvathatthil chumattukaare upayogichu uyarnna bharam vahikkunnath apraayogikamaayirunnu, athinaal avaa camp II vare maathrame upayogikkaan padhathiyittulloo. koodaathe abruzi sparinte kuthaneyullathukondu koodaarangalkku parimithamaaya paranna sthalamundaayirunnu, koodaathe dhaaraalam parvatharohakarkk thaamasikkanulla camp sittukal kandethuka prayaasamaan. athinaal hyoosttanum bettsum ettu parvathaarohakarude oru cheria teamine kootticherkkaan padhathiyittu, uyarnna uyarathilulla portermaarilla. adhika bharam parvathatthilekku kondupokaan mathiyaya manushyashakthi illaathathinaal teaminte valippam anubandha ooksijante upayogam thallikkalanju, ennaal swantham yudhakaala pareekshanangalil ninnum yudhathinu munbulla britiish ekkaalatheyum paryaveshanangalude anubhavathil ninnum hyoosttaninu aathmavishwaasamundaayirunnu, athu illaathe keey 2 kayaran kazhiyumennu. 
hoosttanum bettsum niravadhi parvathaarohakare pariganikkukayum vyakthigatha prathibhayekkaal oru team enna nilayilulla avarude anuyojyathaykkum sarvvathonmukhamaaya anubhavathinum avare thiranjedukkukayum cheythu. team amgangal thammilulla vyakthithva samgharshangal mattu karakkoram paryaveshanangalkk haanikaramaanennu hyoosttaninu ariyamaayirunnu, prathyekichu paryaveshana nethaavenna nilayil sambhavathin vyakthiparamaaya utharavaaditham ettedukkunnathinuparam oru juuniyar parvathaarohakane poornnamaayum kuttappeduthiya wiseners, avaa ozhivakkaan thaalpparyappedunnu. siyaattil, art gilki, ayovayil ninnulla geologist, geologist, siyaattil ninnulla kalaakaaran dee molenar, siyaattil ninnulla peett sconing, partyile ettavum ilaya 25 carren, loss alamosil ninnulla aanava shaasthranjanaaya jorjju bell ennivaraayirunnu thiranjeduttha aarr parvathaarohakar. thudakkathil transport offeesaraayi niyamikkapetta engleesh armi offeesaraaya tonny strither aayirunnu teamile ettaamathe amgam, pakshe climbing teamil poornna amgamaakaan mathiyaya kazhivu kaanichu. 1938leeii paryaveshanatthil pradhana punk vahicha vilyam hausinu bisinesses kaaranangalal madangaan kazhinjilla ennathaanu ettavum valia nirasha. mattu kazhivulla parvathaarohakar, athaayath villi unsold, pooll petsolt, fritts wiesner ennivare vivaadaparamaayi ulppeduthiyitla, kaaranam avar teaminte backie bhagangalumaayi munnott pookumennu thonniyilla.
sarkkaaril ninno american parvathaarohana samghadanakalil ninno graantukalonnum labhikkathe svakaaryamaayi dhanasahayam nalkiyathaanu eee paryaveshanam. team amgangalil ninnu thanne 32,000 dollarinte bajatt, chila sammanangal, deseeya prakshepana kambani nalkia advaansukal, oru sinimaykkum pathra lekhanangalude oru parambaraykkum shaniyazhcha vaikunneram poost, athupole thanne ganyamaaya vaaypakal enniva vannu. chila korpparettu sponsarshippukalum labhichu, pakshe pradhaanamaayum panathekkaal upakaranangaludeyum bhakshanathinteyum roopathilaanu.
malakayattam, kodunkaattu, rogam.
meyy avasaanathode raavalpindiyil othukoodiya paryaveshanam scarduvilekku parannu, ascoliloodeyum baltoro himaniyiloodeyum neenda trekkingin sesham juun 20 nuu keey 2 nte adithattil ethi. paryaveshanatthinte thanthrangal kaaranam purogathi mandagathiyilaayirunnuvenku kayattatthinte aadya gattangal sugamamayi munnott pooyi. 1934-leeii nanga parbath 1939-leeii keey2-lum nadanna duranthangal, mosham kaalaavasthayil paryaveshanam pinvaangendi vannal ellah kyaambukalum ellaayppozhum nannayi sookshikkendathinte praadhaanyathekkurichu hoosttanine bodhyappedutthi. ithu cheiyunnathinu malakayattakkarkk adhika saadhanangalumaayi parvathatthilekkum thaazhekkum adhika yathrakal nadathendivannu, ithu avarude athijeevanathinu nirnaayakamaanennu theliyikkum. 
august 1 aayappozhekkum root ekadesham 7800 meter uyarathil tholinte adithattil camp VIII vare neengukayum pittennu muzhuvan team uchakodiykkulla anthima munnettatthinu thayyaredukkaan avide othukoodukayum cheythu. ennirunnaalum, niravadhi divasangalaayi kaalavastha kramena vashalayikkondirikkukayum taamasiyaathe sakthamaaya kodunkaattu pottippurappedukayum cheythu. thudakkathil athu teamine niraashappeduthiyilla, eathu parvathaarohakar aadya kodumudiyude sramam nadathanamennu theerumaanikkaan oru rahasya baalat nadannu. ennirunnaalum, kodunkaattu anudinam thudarunnathinaal avarude avastha kooduthal gurutharamaayi. naalaamathe ratri oru koodaaram thakarnnu, hyoosttanum maniyum ithinakam idungiya koodaarangalilekku aalkkoottathe nirbandhitharaakki. august 6 nuu, kaalavastha pravachanangal mechappedumenna prateeksha kuravaayathinaal, party aadyamaayi pinvaangunnathinekkuri charcha cheythu.
pittennu kaalavastha mechappettuvenkilum addehathinte koodaarathinu thottupurathu art gilki thakarnnuveenathine thudarnnu kodumudi pareekshikkanulla chinthakal pettennu upekshikkappettu. samudranirappil apakadakaravum ennaal 7800 meettaril maarakavumaya raktham kattapidikkunna thromboflabitis baadhichathaayi hyoosttan kandethi. muzhuvan team ippol addehathe rakshikkanulla nirashaajanakamaaya sramathinu nirbandhithamaayi. addehathe rakshikkanulla saadhyatha kuravaanenno illenno avar vishwasichengilum addehathe upekshikkaanulla saadhyatha orikkalum charcha cheyyapettilla. ennirunnaalum, kodunkaattu puthukkiyathinethudarnnu asveekaaryamaaya himapata saadhyatha aaa samayat oru irakkathe thadanju, kaalavastha mechappedumenna pratheekshayil team niravadhi divasam camp VIII-ll thudarnnu.
rakshappeduthaanum veezhaanum shramichu.
august 10 aayappozhekkum sthithi gurutharamaayi gilki pulmonary embolisathinte lakshanagal kaanikkukayum vegathil vashalaakukayum cheythu, muzhuvan team appozhum uyarathil kudungikkidakkukayum oduvil avare ellaavareyum kollukayum cheythu. thudarchayaaya kodunkaattum himapathavum undakaan saadhyathayundengilum team udan thanne erangaan thudangi. kyanwas, kayarukal, sleeping bagg enniva upayogichu nirmmicha oru thaalkkaalika stretcheril, kidilan bhoopradeshathekku gilki valikkukayo thaazhthukayo cheythu, team avarude camp VII lake budhimuttulla oru aise chariviloode kadannupokaan kazhiyunna oru ghattathil athicherunnathuvare. 
malakayattakkar yaatra thudangiyappol oru kootta veezhcha sambhavichu. jorjju bell vazhuthiveenu, thante kayarthadakkaaranaaya tonny straitharine valichirakki, kadinamaaya oru manjumoodiya oru paachil veenu. avar veenappol, avarude kayar hoosttan, betts, gilki, molenar ennivaye bandhippikkunnavayumaayi kudungi, eee parvathaarohakareyum valichidukayum cheythu. oduvil eee vardhanavu gilky molenaarineyum thalikkunna peett sconinglake vannu. vegathil kayar tholukalilum aise kodaariyilum pothinju, sconing aarr parvathaarohakareyum godwin-oosttan himaniyil veezhunnathil ninnu thadanju. eee pravrithi "dhaa bailey" ennu ariyapettu."
parvathaarohakar sukham praapikkukayum camp VII-leeii koodaaratthilekku pookukayum cheythappol gilki nashtappettu. ksheenicha parvathaarohakar koodaaram thayyaaraakkiyappol addeham aise sloppil nankooramittirunnu, addehathinte shabdangal kettu. avane koodaaratthilekku konduvaraan baattukalum striterum madangiyethiyappol avanekkurichulla oru soochanayum avar kandilla. manjil mangiya oru kuzhal oru himapatham nadannathaayi soochippikkunnu. jilkkiyude maranam daarunamaanengilum, ippol swantham athijeevanathil shradha kendreekarikkaan swaathanthryamulla teaminte baakkiyullavarude jeevan rakshichuvennu jiim karaneppolulla ezhuthukaar abhipraayappettittund. hoosttan eee vilayiruthalinodu yojikkunnundenkilum parvathasamrakshanathekkurikkullachu thante mattu anubhavangalude adisthaanathil, oduvil anubhavichathinekkaal kooduthal manju veerthirunnenkilum teaminu raksha vijayakaramaayi poortthiyaakkaamaayirunnu ennu peett sconing ellaayppozhum vishwasichirunnu. gilkkiyude maranathekkurichum vivaadangalundu. toom honbainum mattullavarum abhipraayappettath, thante raksha mattullavarude jeevan apakadatthilaakkunnuvennu manassilakkiya gilki parvathatthil ninnu svayam kettiyittundaakam ennaanu. morphin upayogichu mayappeduthiya gilkick nankoorangal thurakkaan shaareerika shakthiyillenn chaals hoosttan thudakkathil vishwasichirunnu. ennirunnaalum, 2003-leeii oru documentaryile sambhavangal vivarikkumbol, addeham manass maattukayum gilki theerchayaayum svayam bandhippichittillenna nigamanam cheyyukayum cheythu. roobert betsineppolulla mattu aalukalkk oru himapatham gilkiye thallikkalanjuvennu bodhyamaayi.
camp VII-ll ninnu bays campilekkulla irakkam anchu divasam koodi eduthu, athu thanne kadinamaayirunnu; ellah parvathaarohakarkkum sheenamundaayirunnu, jorjju bellinu kaalukal moshamaayi thanuppaayirunnu, thalaykku parikketta chaals hoosttan ambarakkukayum thalachorinunere murivelkkukayum cheythu. gilkiye rakshikkanulla teaminte shramathil abhimaanikkunnuvenkilum vijayakaramaya irakkam oru valia nettamaanennu thanikk thonnunnuvennu hoosttan paranju. erangunna samayat, parvathaarohakar oru takarnna aise-axum chila rakthakarayulla paarakalum kanduvenkilum art gilkkiyude mattu adayaalangalonnum kandethiyilla. 
bays campilekku team erangiyappol, art gilkkiykkayi oru smaaraka keyne sthaapikkukayum oru sevanam nadathukayum cheythu. pinneedu keey2-ll maricha mattu parvathaarohakarude shavasamskara sthalamaayum mrithadehangal kandethaathavarude smaarakamaayum gilki smaarakam maari.
1993ll britiish parvathaarohakanaaya rogger peyneyude neethrthwathilulla oru paryaveshanathilaanu gilki ennu krithyamaayi thirichariyappedunna vasthrangalum manushyaavashishtangalum keey2 bays campinu sameepam kandethiyathu.
anantharafalangalum paarambaryavum.
paryaveshanatthinte aaghaatham undaayirunnittum, keey2-ll mattoru sramam nadatthaan chaals hoosttan thaalpparyappedukayum 1954-ll kooduthal paryaveshanathinu anumathi thedukayum cheythu. aaa varsham oru valia itaaliyan paryaveshanam parvatham book cheythathil addeham angeyattam niraashanaayirunnu. itaaliyan paryaveshanam vijayakaramaayirunnu, 1955 ll hoosttaninu anumathi labhichappol addeham athu ettedukkaathe, uyarnna pradeshathe vaidyashaasthrathil gaveshanam nadathunna thante kariyaril shradha kendreekarikkunnathinaayi parvathaarohanam upekshichu. ennirunnaalum, peett sconing 1958-ll karakkorathilekku madangukayum andy kofmaanumaayi chernnu 8080 meettaril oru american team nadatthiya ettavum uyarnna aadya kayattamaaya gasharbram I-nte aadya kayattavum nadatthi.
mattu parvathaarohakar adhika vibhagangal ulppeduthi bettsum hoosttanum ezhuthiya paryaveshanatthinte vivaranam 1954 ll "keey 2-dhaa sevej parvatham" enna peril prasidheekarichu. ithu vyapakamaaya prashamsa nedukayum parvathaarohana classic aayi kanakkakkappedukayum cheythu.
vaisnarude 1939leeii paryaveshanavum 1954leeii vijayakaramaya itaaliyan paryaveshanavum polulla kaduthathum kayperiyathumaaya mattu pala keey2 paryaveshanangalil ninnu vyathyasthamayi, 1953leeii paryaveshanam athinte amgangalkkidayil aajeevanantha souhrudabandhangal roopappeduthi. njangal parvathatthil aparichitharayi praveshichu, pakshe njangal athu sahodaranmaaraayi upekshichu" ennu hoosttan abhiprayappettu, athesamayam "keey 2-ll sthaapithamaaya kayarinte saahodaryam niravadhi pathittaandukal neenduninnu, moolyangal, thalpparyangal, paraspara bahumanam, vaalsalyam ennivayude pankitta bodhathe adisthaanamaakkiyullathaayinu" ennu betts pinneedu parayum. ithu kaaranam, art gilkiye samrakshikkaanulla shramathinte dheerathayum niswaarthathayum kaaranam jiim karaneppolulla ezhuthukaar eee paryaveshanatthe "parvathaarohanatthile ettavum mikachathinte pratheekamaayi" nilanirtthi."1978-ll keey2-nte aadya american kayattatthil earppetta jiim vikwayar avarude dhairyatheyum swabhaavatheyum" "ekkaalatheyum mikacha parvathaarohana kadhakalilonnu" "ennu visheshippikkukayum hoosttaninu ezhuthiya kathil 1953-leeii paryaveshanatthil kayarunnath 1978-leeii keey2 kayarunnathinekkaal mikachathaayirikkumennu ezhuthi. paryaveshanathinu niravadhi varshangalkk sesham, pathinaalu 8000 meter kodumudikalum kayarunna aadya manushyanaaya mesner veendum paranju, keey2 aadyamaayi kayariya itaaliyan teaminode thanikk valia bahumaanamundaayirunnuve, american teaminode thanikk kooduthal bahumaanamundaayirunnuvennum avaa paraajayappettappol" "ningalkk sangalppikkaan kazhiyunna ettavum manoharamaaya reethiyil avaa parajayappettu"."
1981ll american alpine club david eiii sthaapichu. vyakthiparamaaya apakadasaadhyathakalilo oru pradhana lakshyathinte thyaagathilo niswaarthamaaya bhakthiyode parvatharohakarkk parvathangalil kudungiya sahaparvathaarohakarude sahaayathinaayi pooyi svayam verthiricheduthavarkkul souls memorial award."moonnaamathe american karakkoram paryaveshanatthil athijeevicha amgangal aadya sweekarthaakkalil ulppedunnu. 
kootta veezhcha thadayunnathinulla sconinginte nadapadi thanne pratheekathmaka padavi nediyittundu, ithu american climbing sarkkilukalil "dhaa bailey" ennu ariyappedunnu. ennirunnaalum, thaan bhaagyavaanaanennu avakaashappett thante nettathekkurichu eppozhum elimayullavanaayirunnu.

