
kizuang

'(), jise' () key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye aur aamtaur parr angreji mein anuchit roop seey manchu kapade key roop mein jaanaa jaataa haye, manchu logon kaa paaramparik vastra haye. vyaapak arthon mein, manchu logon kii vastra pranali koo sandarbhit kartaa haye, jisamen vibhinn avsaron key liye upayog kii jaane vaali unaki poshak kii poori pranali shamil haye, jisamen vibhinn star kii aupchaariktaaen shamil hain. iss shabd kaa upayog manchu mahilaaon dwara pahani jaane vaali ack prakaar kii anaupchaarik poshak koo sandarbhit karane key liye bhee kiya jaa sakata haye, jise donon taraf koee slitt naheen honey vaalaa ack tukada lamba vastra kahaa jaataa haye. manchu parampara mein, purushon aur mahilaaon donon key baahari kapadon mein jackett yaa baniyan key saath ack poorna lambai kaa vastra shamil hotaa haye, jabaki chhote coat aur patloon koo aantarik vastron key roop mein pahana jaataa haye.
manchu logon kaa itihas lagbhag 400 varshon kaa haye, haalaanki unake poorvajon kaa itihas 4000 varshon kaa haye. cheongsam key agradoot sahit, kaa vikas, sadiyon seey manchu rashtriyata (aur unake poorvajon) key vikas aur parivartanon seey nikatata seey sambandhit haye, jisamen sambhaavit roop seey yuddharat raajyon kii avadhi mein yilou loga, poorv-kinn avadhi mein sushen loga, wei aur jinn avadhi mein wuji loga, suee aur taang rajvanshon key mohe loga, aur liao, geet, yuan aur ming rajvanshon mein (jurchen key roop mein jaanaa jaataa haye) shamil hain. king rajvansh ack aisaa samay thaa jaba manchu key kapadon key vikas kaa charan paripakvata taka pahunchata thaa. king rajvansh mein, manchu logon kii kapadon kii sanskriti unake saanskritik matbhedon aur saundarya avadhaaranaon key kaaran haan cheeni kii kapadon kii sanskriti seey virodhabhasi aur takra gaee. kuchh king rajvansh kii darbari poshaaken sanrakshit visheshtaon aur visheshtaon koo darshaati hain joe ming rajvansh kii vijay seey pahale manchu dwara pahane jaane vaale kapadon seey alag hain. king rajvansh key adhikaari bhee darbar key kapade pahanate they, joe darbar mein manchu key kapadon key roop they.
visheshataaen aur saanskritik mahatva.
visheshataaen.
manchu key kapade, cheeni kapadon key vipareet, joe ming rajvansh mein pahane jaate they; "paryaapt, bahate hue vastron aur gatiheen ming key pair kii ungaliyon key saath chappal key vipareet, manchu joote, patloon aur ghumantu ghudsavaaron key karyatmak sawari coat pahanata thaa. 
donon lingon key manchu ghode key buggle aur tatvon seey apane pairon kii raksha key liye patloon pahanate they. unake booton mein kathor talave they joe savaaron koo lohe key stirup mein khade honey kii anumati dekar ghode parr tirandaji kii suvidha pradaan karate they. manchu loga hood bhee pahanate they joe insulation pradaan karate they aur ise pahanane vaale koo thhandi poorvottar asiai sardiyon seey bachaane key liye aavashyak they.
manchu coat (aur vastra) aamtaur parr bund fitting vaale hotey they aur ghode kii sawari karate samay andolanon koo aasaan banaane key liye 4 taraf (paridhan key 2 taraf, peechhe aur saamane) 4-slitt khule hotey they; unaki baajuuen lambi aur tanga hoti theen aur unaki baajuuen ghode key khurr key aakar mein samaapt hoti theen, jise () kahaa jaataa thaa, joe havaa seey apane pahanane vaale key haathon kii peeth kii raksha karane key liye thaa. manchu key vastra ack lute key aakar (yaa tirchha/ghumaavdaar) saamane key roop mein ativyaapi they, ack manchu navachar, jiska upayog mangol dwara pahane jaane vaale samaan dikhane vaale kapadon seey manchu vastron koo alag kartaa thaa aur jinhen haan cheeni dwara pahana jaataa thaa. manchu vastron koo gardan key kshetra key kendra mein, clavical key daaeen or, daahine haath key neeche aur daahine seam key saath loop aur googal batanon key saath baandh diyaa gayaa thaa; unake kapadon koo bund karane key yeye tareeke haan cheeni seey alag they jinhone kandhe kii rekha key paas daahine gardan key udghaatan parr ack gaanthdaar button koo baandh diyaa thaa. 1911 mein king rajvansh key patan taka aur tirchha udghaatan manchu poshak kii mukhya visheshtaen bunny raheen.
unaki purush paaramparik kesh shally kataar haye, jise cheeni mein kahaa jaataa haye aur manchu bhasha mein sonkoh kahaa jaataa haye.
manchu saanskritik pehchaan parr jore.
manchu abhijaat varg ney khud koo aur samrat koo manchu key roop mein pahale maanaa, jisaki jadein ghodon kii sawari, teer chalaane aur shikaar karane mein ack lambi parampara key saath theen; unhone apane kapadon koo apani jeevan shally aur prathaon key liye upayukt honey key liye design kiya gayaa thaa. unake kapade yuddh shakti seey judey they; manchu kapadon ney adhik aasaani seey chalane kii anumati dee, jabaki haan cheeni chaude aur lambi baju vaale vastron kii seemit gatividhiyon key saath.
king rajvansh key itihas key dastavejon key anusaar, yufu jhee": "manchu loga sawari karane aur shooting karane mein achche hain. aggar humm aasaani seey haan logon key kapade apana lete hain aur dheere-dheere tirandaji aur ghudsavaari kaa kaushal khou dete hain aur abb yuddh kalaa kii pooja naheen karate hain, tou yeh afsos kii baat naheen haye kii humm inn hathiyaron koo rakhenge, lekin unakaa abhyaas karane kaa koee kaaran naheen haye.
manchu abhijaat varg ney manchu sanskriti kii inn visheshtaon koo bahut mahatvapurna maanaa, jinhen sanrakshit karane aur apane shasson mein poori tarah seey jore dene aur vyakt karane kii aavashyakta thee. isaliye, praarambhik king rajvansh mein, manchu shasakon ney iss baat parr jore diyaa kii haan cheeniyon koo manchu key vastra sanhita kaa paalan karna thaa.
haalaanki, pratyek haan cheeni koo tifayifu neeti key tahat manchu kapade pahanane kii aavashyakta naheen thee, kyonki king adalat dwara apnai gaee ack anya shaman neeti koo aamtaur parr jinn jhijun dwara samarthit "duss niyamon kaa paalan kiya jaanaa chaahiye aur duss kaa paalan karane kii aavashyakta naheen haye" key roop mein sandarbhit kiya jaataa haye.
manchu aur haan cheeni mahilaaon key beach jaatiya marker.
tifayfu key liye ack shaman neeti key madhyam seey, haan cheeni mahilaaon koo ming rajvansh kii mahilaaon key kapadon kii shally aur visheshtaon koo banaae rakhane kii anumati dee gaee thee; jisase manchu aur haan cheeni mahilaaon key kapadon kaa saha-astitva hoe sakata thaa. manchu aur haan cheeni mahilaaen apani poshak shally mein ack-dusare seey alag theen.
haan cheeni mahilaaon ney "liangji chuanayi" () kii lambi parampara kaa paalan kiya, joe unake hanfu pahanane parr dou-bhaag sheersh-neeche key paridhan shally koo pahanane koo sandarbhit kartaa haye. yeh parampara 1920 key dashak kii shuruat taka sadiyon taka bunny rahee. "liangji chuani"-shally key kapade haan cheeni mahilaaon kii pehchaan key jaatiya markers mein seey ack bunn gaye.
doosari or, manchu mahilaaon ney ack tukade kii lambi poshak pahani thee. haalaanki, unhone king rajvansh mein ack-dusare seey kuchh tatva udhaar liye, udaaharan key liye, chaude vastra joe haan cheeni mahilaaon key kapadon mein vishisht visheshataaen hain, unhein manchu mahilaaon key anaupchaarik dainik paridhaanon mein apanaaya gayaa thaa. isaliye manchu mahilaaon key kapade haan cheeni kapadon kii sanskriti seey prabhaavit they. manchu mahilaaon key pair bhee praakritik they aur way haan cheeni mahilaaon key vipareet pair baandhane mein sanlagn naheen theen.
poorv-manchu itihas.
sushen/yilou loga.
shang aur jhau rajvanshon mein, manchu key sabse shuruati poorvaj chean mein sonhua nadee besin mein rahane vaale sushen loga they. unaki kapadon kii sanskriti unaki utpaadaktaa aur bhaugolik vatavaran seey prabhaavit thee; sushen loga machhali pakadane aur shikaar parr rahate they; isaliye, unake kapade jangli jaanvaron key farr seey baney they. shanheising mein guo poo kii tippani key anusaar, liavdong commander key uttar mein rahane vaale sushen loga gufaaon mein rahate they aur kapadon key liye kewal suggar kii khaal pahanate they aur sardiyon mein, way havaa aur thhand seey khud koo bachaane key liye apane shareer parr tail chhidakte they.
jinn kii pustak key anusaar, sushen (jise yilou key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye) changbai pahaad key uttar mein rahata thaa; sushen purush ack mahila key baalon mein pankhon koo chipakaata thaa aur yadi mahila sweekaar karati thee, tou vaha usey apani patni banane aur usase aupchaarik aur sammaanpurvak shaadi karane kaa prastaav detaa thaa; ack pratha joe yuan aur ming rajvanshon koo dee gaee thee.
moe logon.
7veen shatabdi key taang rajvansh mein, pracheen sushen logon key vanshajon koo heshui mohe (;) key roop mein jaanaa jaataa thaa. sushen, yilou aur wuji logon kii ack anya vanshaj shakha sumo mohe they jinhone bohai raajya kii sthaapana kii; ack raajya joe aabaadi key mamle mein badee sankhya mein mohe janjaatiyon seey banaa thaa, jabaki shaasak varg jyaadaatar goguryo logon seey banaa thaa. kuchh mohe loga halanki bohai key sattaaroodh abhijaat varg kaa hissa banane mein kamyab rahey. bohai antatah 926 mein khitaanon key adheen aaa gayaa aur bohai key gogurio abhijaat varg gorio mein sharanarthi bunn gaye, joe swadeshi mohe logon koo peechhe chhod gaye, joe taba liao rajvansh key praja bunn gaye.
heshui mohe key apane sir key liye jangli suar key daanton aur teetar poonchh key pankhon kaa upayog karane key rivaaj they. taang kii purani pustak, taang kii naee pustak aur suee kii pustak key anusaar, mohe purushon ney chamade key kapade pahane aur apani topi koo teetar pankhon seey sajaaya. bohai key uttari kshetron aur purvi kshetron mein rahane vaale mohe loga shikaar aur machhali pakadane key madhyam seey rahate they aur kapadon seey judey farr key saath thhand seey bachaane key liye farr (sable, bhalu aur bagh sahit) seey baney kapade pahanate they.
jurchen/nuzen itihas.
manchu key poorvajon, jurchan logon ney bhee manchu logon kii visheshtaon koo poori tarah seey ghumantu logon key roop mein pratibimbit kiya; unake kapade zuren (baain or bund) they aur unaki baju mein ghode kii chhatta kaa cuff thaa. jurchan kapadon mein haan aur manchu sanskriti kaa kuchh sanlayan bhee parilakshit hotaa haye. poore jinn, liao aur praarambhik king rajvanshon mein, jurchan ney pankhon kii topi aur coat pahanane key apane paaramparik reeti-rivaajon koo banaae rakhaa. yuva jurchan ladakiyan ack tube key aakar key, paanch rangon key motee pahanati theen joe pakshi-gardan kii huddy seey baney sajawati design key saath utkeern hotey they.
paanch rajvansh aur duss raajya, liao rajvansh, geet rajvansh.
paanch rajvanshon kii avadhi key dauran, mohe logon koo jurchen logon key roop mein sandarbhit kiya jaane lagaa, jinhen una khitaanon dwara sandarbhit kiya gayaa thaa jinhone liao rajvansh kii sthaapana kii thee. liao rajvansh ney heshui mohe koo vash mein curr liya thaa joe heilongjiang nadee, songhua nadee aur changbai pahaadon mein rahata thaa. isaliye, jurchan, moh janjaatiyon seey ubhare joe changbai pahaadon key dakshin aur paschim mein rahate they aur uttar mein bohai raajya mein rahate they.
jurchan key praarambhik itihas mein, jurchan koo safed kapade pahanana pasand thaa aur mandiron key oopar apane sir key saamane mundan karna pasand thaa, jabaki unake baaki baal unake kandhon parr latka diye gaye they. way apane baalon koo sir key peechhe mundan bhee curr sakate they aur unhein rangeen resham key saath jodd sakate they; way apane aabhushanon key roop mein soney key taale bhee pahanate they. ameer jurchan motee aur soney kaa istemal aabhushanon key roop mein karate they. jurchan mahilaaon ney apane baalon koo bandhkar binaa topi pahane unhein ack baal bunn mein ghaav curr diyaa. jurchan ney bhang kaa bunaa huaa kaaran way resham key keede naheen uthaate they; way apane dhana koo ingit karane key liye bhang key kapade kii baarikiyon kaa upayog karate they. sardiyon mein, ameer aur garib donon dwara khud koo germ rakhane key liye farr coat kaa upayog kiya jaataa thaa.
jinn rajvansh.
sheng" () jurchan apane poorvajon kii jeevan shally key samaan shikaar aur charvaahe key aadhar parr apekshaakrit adim aur swadeshi jeevan shally jeete they. jurchanes ney 1115 mein jinn rajvansh kii sthaapana kii aur antatah liao rajvansh koo ukhaad fenka. bohai logon key kuchh avashesh leo rajvansh koo ukhaad fenkane key baad jinn key praja bunn gaye; aur madhya-jinn rajvansh taka, bohai logon ney apani vishisht pehchaan khou dee. jinn rajvansh kii sthaapana key turant baad, jurchan abhijaat varg ney pahale bohai seey prabhaavit hocker apane "sheng" jeevan key tarikon koo chhod diyaa aur baad mein uttari chean aur poorv geet rajvansh kii aabaadi koo praapt karke joe badee sankhya mein thee. jinn rajvansh mein rahane vaale jurchan ney jaldi seey haan cheeni sanskriti koo apanaaya, aur 12 veen shatabdi key anta taka, hanfu poore jinn samaaj mein kapadon kaa maanak roop bunn gayaa thaa, vishesh roop seey abhijaat varg dwara.
uttari chean parr vijay praapt karane key baad, 1126 mein, grand marshel key karyalaya dwara ack ghoshana jaari kii gaee thee jisamen kahaa gayaa thaa kii nyaydhishon ney sabhi parr vijay praapt curr lii thee aur isaliye unhein nyayshastra key maandandon key anuroop banaane key liye vijay praapt logon key reeti-rivaajon koo ekjut karna uchit hoga; isaliye vijay praapt kshetron mein rahane vaale cheeni purushon koo apane sir key saamane apane baal mundan karane aur nyayshastra key samaksh apani samarpanata pradarshit karane key liye nishpaadan key khatare key tahat kewal nyayshastra-shally kii poshak pahanane kaa adesh diyaa gayaa thaa. halanki, yeh kesh-kshaur adesh aur jurchen kapadon koo apnana kuchh hii maheenon baad radd curr diyaa gayaa thaa kyonki ise lagu karna bahut mushkil thaa. samanya taur parr, jinn rajvansh key jurchan kapade safed rung key liye unaki pasand koo chhodkar, laao mein khitaanon dwara pahane jaane vaale kapadon key samaan they. yuanlingpao tanga baju key saath (baain or bund, pipa key aakar key collar key saath) chamade key joote aur belt vaale purushon dwara pahana jaataa thaa. jurchan mahilaaon koo jackett (yaa tou gahare laal yaa gahare baingani) pahanana pasand thaa joe lambe flap vaale scurt key saath baain or bund hoe jaate they. jinn rajvansh key itihas key "dibbon aur veshbhusha" khand mein yeh bhee darj haye kii jurchen kapadon koo bhalu, hiran, pahaad aur vann key pattern seey sajaaya gayaa thaa.
1127 mein, jinn rajvansh ney uttari geet rajdhani aur uttari geet key kshetron parr kabja curr liya aur haan cheeni jinn rajvansh kii bahusankhyak aabaadi bunn gaye; haan cheeni koo apani sanskriti kaa abhyaas karane kii anumati dee gaee. cheeni logon parr baal mundan aur jurchen kapade pahanane key adesh koo 1129 mein ack baar phir seey majboot kiya gayaa thaa; haalaanki, aisaa lagata haye kii ise sakhti seey lagu naheen kiya gayaa haye.
1150 mein, samrat ney ack paapikaran neeti sthaapit kii. unake shasankal mein, honan mein cheeni logon koo cheeni kapade pahanane kii anumati thee.
1160 key dashak key anta mein, samrat shijong, samrat helling key uttaradhikari, ney purani jurchen sanskriti koo punarjeevit karane aur jurchen kii saanskritik pehchaan koo sanrakshit karane kaa prayaas kiya. unake samay taka, kaee nyaaypeethon ney cheeni reeti-rivaajon koo apanaaya haye aur apani paramparaon koo bhool gaye hain. natijatan, samrat shijong ney bhee yahudi sabhaon koo haan cheeni poshak apanaane seey pratibandhit curr diyaa. lagbhag 1162 kii jurchen bhautik sanskriti kii key rajkumar aur unaki patni key taaboot seey millie thee, jahan vanyan yaan aur unaki patni duplicate shally mein kapadon kii paraton mein pahane hue they, jaisa kii lady venji aur yoddhaon dwara pahana jaataa thaa joe painting mein unake saath they.qi key rajkumar ney jhumke, daraaj, padded leggings, jerking, boot, peechhe aur saamane kii jackett mein medallion design key saath ack padded baahari jackett; naram joote aur moje, aur ack chhoti topi pahani thee, jabaki unaki patni ack chhoti apron, patloon, leggings, ack padded resham scurt, soney key rupankanon key saath ack vastra, naram talavon key saath resham key joote aur mudey hue pair kii ungaliyan pahanati thee. jurchen kapadon key yeye roop puraane jurchen kuleen varg kii shailiyon mein they; ack aisee shally joe samrat shijong key shasankal key dauran 12 veen shatabdi key anta mein kissy samay jinn shaahi abhijaat varg key kapadon kii vishisht hoe sakati haye, jinhone puraane "sheng" jurchen key moolyon parr jore diyaa aur jurchen sanskriti aur moolyon koo punarjeevit karane kaa prayaas kiya. kaaee venji" chitra mein janjaatiyon kii mahilaaen, joe haan laut rahee hain, legging, scurt, jaanvaron kii khaal seey baney apron, jackett, scarf, farr yaa kapade seey bunny topi seey baney jurchen paridhan pahanati hain; venji bhee jurchen-shally kii poshak pahanati hain jisamen ack gerr-peele rung kii jackett, chaandi kii yanjian (uchch rank kaa prateek), joote aur kaana key flap key saath farr topi hoti haye; adiwasi ack haan cheeni adhikaari key apavaad key saath vishisht "sheng" jurchen kapade pahanate hain. haalaanki, kii key rajkumar aur unaki patni key kapade khurdare buney hue oona, mahsoos kiye gaye aur jaanvaron kii twacha seey naheen baney they joe "sheng" jurchan pahanate they; isake bajaay, way soney key dhaage seey sajaae gaye maheen resham seey baney kapade pahanate they; way joote bhee naheen pahanate they.
uttari geet rajvansh kii jinn vijay key baad 1170 mein jinn rajvansh kaa daura karane vaale prashansak chengda key anusaar, unhone nott kiya kii haan cheeni purushon ney jurchen kapade apanaae they, jabaki mahilaaon kii poshak shally abhee bhee dakshini geet rajvansh mein pahane jaane vaale hanfu key samaan thee (halanki shally purani thee).
samrat shijong kii mrityu key baad, nyaayikaran kii neeti koo chhod diyaa gayaa aur paapikaran jaldi seey vaapas aaa gayaa. 1191 taka, jinn rajvansh key shasakon ney apane rajvanshon koo ack vaidh cheeni rajvansh key roop mein maanaa, jisane taang aur uttari geet rajvanshon kii paramparaon koo sanrakshit kiya thaa.
13veen shatabdi taka, jinn key nyaaypeethon ney "sheng" nyaaypeethon koo baahari, berber aur kabhi-kabhi apane dushman key roop mein bhee maanaa.
manchu kaa itihas.
ming rajvansh/baad mein jinn rajvansh.
jurchen seey manchu mein sankraman.
manchu (aur jurchen) key kapade shuru mein apani mukhya visheshtaon mein vijay key praarambhik rajvanshon key dauran pahane jaane vaale kapadon key samaan dikhaai dete they. jurchan aur manchu shuru mein shikari they aur unake kapade unake shikaar kiye gaye jaanvaron kii khaal seey banaae gaye they. way apane ghode parr savaar honey vaale kapade banaane key liye aavashyak kapade praapt karane key liye vyaapaar parr bhee nirbhar they; thhand seey suraksha badhaane key liye unake kapade key coat koo aksar rajaai yaa farr key saath chehra kiya jaataa thaa. unake kapadon mein magua jaise sarkot shamil they. 1630 key baad, unake magua aksar paridhan key rung yaa usake trimming key madhyam seey apane banner key saath apane pahanane vaale key sambandh koo pratibimbit karate they.
ming rajvansh kii vijay seey pahale, manchu (aur unake poorvavartiyon) koo pahale seey hii ming darbar dwara rajanyik upahaar aur rishwat key roop mein dragon vastra pradaan kiye gaye they. iss prakaar, manchu shasakon ney resham key ming rajvansh key dragon vastron koo saabal key saath kaatane kaa adesh diyaa. nurharsi key samay key dauran, jurchan abhijaat varg key sarvocch shreni key sadasya manchurian motee, sable aur links pahanate theh abhijaat varg key uchchatam sadasya plated sable jackett aur kaale sable key vastra pahanate they, way cheeni shally key racoon-kutte yaa links farr vastra pahanate they; dusare shreni key purush saade racoon-kutte seey baney vastra yaa coat pahanate they joe sable key saath panktibaddh they; aur teesare shreni key purush dragon vastra pahanate they joe jurchan shally mein sable key saath panktibaddh hotey they. nichale kuleen loga gilhari aur veezel farr pahane hue they.
manchu" shabd koo kewal 1635 mein haang taiji dwara ack naee pehchaan banaane key prayaas mein apanaaya gayaa thaa aur joe loga unhein jurchen key roop mein sandarbhit karate they, unhein nishpaadit kiya jaayega. haang taiji ney ghoshana kii theeh
king rajvansh.
16veen shatabdi kaa pahala bhaag.
manchu ney antim mein ming rajvansh parr aakraman kiya aur king rajvansh kii sthaapana key liye ming rajvansh koo ukhaad fenka. baad key jinn (1616-1636) kshetron mein manchu, mangol bannerman aur haan bannerman 1616 seey apane maathe mundan karane key abhyaas mein lagey hue they. jaba manchu beijing pahunche, tou unhone tifayifu neeti paarit kii, jisamen haan cheeni vayask purushon kii aavashyakta thee (una logon key vishisht samooh key apavaad key saath joe ack shaman neeti kaa hissa they, jinn jhijun, joe kii king rajvansh key poorv mantri they, jinhone aatmasamarpan kiya thaa) apane baal mundan karane key liye (i.ee. manchu kii kataar koo king rajvansh key shasson key prati samarpan aur manchu-shally mein poshak pahanane key prateek key roop mein apnana; haan cheeni mahilaaen chhoot praapt logon kaa hissa theen aur isaliye unhein neeti seey bachaa liya gayaa thaa. king rajvansh kii mahilaaen apane pati key anusaar kapade pahanati theen. cheeni reeti-rivaajon key anusaar, haan cheeni purushon koo apane lambe baalon koo kanghi karna aur unhein topi key neeche chhipaana thaa. king ney 1644 seey pahale bhee apane shasson key tahat sabhi jaatiyataon key purushon parr mundan kii sir kesh shally lagu kii, jaise kii 1630 key dashak mein nanai logon parr, jinhen apane maathe mundan karna padata thaa. kuchh jaatiyataon key purush joe baad mein king shasson key tahat aae jaise kii salar loga aur uighur loga pahale seey hii apane sabhi sir ganje curr chuke they, isaliye mundan adesh anaavashyak thaa. haalaanki, dakshin-paschimi chean mein tusi swaayatt pramukhon mein shaving neeti lagu naheen kii gaee thee, jahan kaee alpasankhyak rahate they. vahaan ack haan cheeni tusi thaa, joe haan kokang logon dwara basey kokang kaa pramukh raajya thaa. aathh banners key sabhi sadasyon koo, unake jaatiya mool kii parwah kiye binaa, manchu poshak pahanane kii aavashyakta thee. banner mahilaaon koo cheeni reeti-rivaajon koo apanaane kii anumati naheen thee jaise kii pair baandhana, ekal jhumke pahanana aur chaudi baju vaale ming-shally key kapade pahanana. king manchu rajkumar dorgon ney shuru mein mahaan deewaar key dakshin mein (king mein 1644 key baad key parivardhan) sabhi purushon key liye mundan key adesh koo radd curr diyaa. yeh shendong, sunn jhiksi aur lii ruolin kaa ack haan adhikaari thaa jisane swechha seey apane maathe mundan kiye aur king prince dorgon seey poori aabaadi parr kataar kesh vinyas lagu karane kii maang kii, jisake kaaran kataar kaa adesh diyaa gayaa.
ming rajvansh parr apani vijay key baad, manchu ney ming-shally key dragon vastra pahanana jaari rakhaa, lekin unhein collar parr farr aur scurt parr cuff aur sable jodkar badal diyaa. 1636 mein, iss siddhant kaa margadarshan karane key liye ack ghoshana paarit kii gaee thee kii manchu shasakon koo ming rajvansh key paaramparik kapadon key paridhan sanhita koo apanaane seey bachana thaa, jisamen manchu shasakon ney apane logon koo yaad dilaaya kii ming rajvansh key haan cheeni reeti-rivaajon koo apanaane seey unake loga shooting aur ghode kii sawari seey aparichit hoe jaayenge. 1636 key baad ack dress code vikasit karane vaale hong taiji ney nirdhaarit kiya kii haan cheeni key kapadon, bhaashan aur gatiheen jeevan shally koo apanaane aur pahale key vijay rajvanshon (liao, jinn aur yuan) key patan key beach ack disha sambandh thaa. manchu shasakon ney bhee ming rajvansh key darbari kapadon koo apanaane koo dridhata seey khariz curr diyaa aur una logon koo fansi dee joe ming rajvansh key darbari poshak koo apanaane kaa sujhaav dete hain.
1637 mein, haang taiji ney apane logon koo yaad dilaaya kii ming rajvansh key "chaudi baju vaale chaude vastra" manchu jeevan shally key liye poori tarah seey anupayukt they aur unhone apani chinta vyakt kii kii unake vanshaj apani mahanata key srot koo bhool jaayenge (i.ee. manchu vijay kii sthaapana unaki ghudsavaari aur unake tirandaji kaushal parr kii gaee thee) aur haan cheeni reeti-rivaajon koo apanaaya gayaa thaa. usee varsh, manchu kuleen purushon aur mahilaaon koo praarambhik king adalat dwara apane sir key kapadon mein taaje paani key manchurian motee pahanane kaa adesh diyaa gayaa thaa, jisamen topi aur baal key tukade shamil they.
1644 key baad, kapadon key niyamon parr nae sanshodhan kiye gaeh pratham shreni key rajkumaron koo apane sir parr 10 manchurian motee pahanane they; dwiteeya shreni key rajkumaron key liye 8 motee; tritiya shreni key rajkumaron key liye 7; sankhya kii sankhya koo taba taka vargeekrit kiya gayaa jaba taka kii sabse cumm shreni key abhijaat varg koo kewal ack motee pahanane kii anumati naheen thee.
17veen shatabdi key uttaraardh seey 18veen shatabdi key anta taka.
1652 kii shuruat mein, prateek chinh vaale sarkot koo pahanane vaale kii shreni koo ingit karane key liye pahanana shuru curr diyaa gayaa thaa. way teen chauthai lambai key sarkot bhee pahan rahey they, jise duaanjhaao kahaa jaataa thaa, joe poori tarah seey farr key saath panktibaddh thaa; inca upayog thhand key mausam key dinon mein kiya jaataa thaa. duaanjhaao koo shandar maanaa jaataa thaa, aur way antatah abhijaat varg key sadasyon (raeeson aur sheersh teen rankon key adhikaariyon) aur shaahi guards taka seemit they; farr kaa prakaar aur astar kaa rung isake pahanane vaale key pada key anusaar pahana jaataa thaa.
kangshi aur kianlong avadhi key dauran, manchu kapadon kii pranali mein lagaatar sudhaar kiya gayaa thaa. kianlong key shasankal key dauran, kuchh banner mahilaaon ney hanfu aur haan cheeni aabhushan (vishesh roop seey jhumke) pahanane key pratibandh kaa ullanghan kiya. kianlong samrat ney apane vanshajon koo manchu key kapade chhodane kii chetavani koo dohraya, yeh dekhate hue kii cheeni vastron koo apanaane vaale harr uttari rajvansh kii topi ack peedhi key bheetar marr gaee thee, jaba unhone apani mool poshak koo chhod diyaa thaa; kianlong samrat ney haang taiji key pahale key sadrishyon kaa hawala diyaa thaa. manchu mahilaaon key channi aur chenny (anaupchaarik vastra) donon kianlong samrat key shasankal key dauran lokpriya hoe gaye aur inhen longhua naamak lambi gardan key ribbon key saath pahana jaataa thaa.
king rajvansh mein manchu shaahi aur darbari kapadon kaa mankikaran.
manchu shasakon ney shaahi parivaar, king rajvansh key darbar aur unake darbari adhikaariyon dwara pahane jaane vaale paridhaanon koo samanya aabaadi seey alag karane key liye nae poshak sanhita niyamon kii bhee sthaapana kii. sanskar mandal ney king rajvansh key shaahi kapadon key mankikaran parr kaam kiya. 17veen aur 18veen shatabdi kii shuruat mein raashi sambandhi niyamon kaa vikas karna. sanskar mandal ney raajneetik ghere key anya sadasyon seey samraton dwara pahane jaane vaale kapadon key beach antar paida karane key tarikon parr kaam kiya, joe loga pahan sakate they aur naheen pahan sakate they; unhone manchu aur haan donon logon kii paramparaon parr chitra banaakar shaahi kapade bhee vikasit kiye.
haalaanki yeh kewal kianlong avadhi mein haye, kii shaahi kapade cheeni designs koo apanaane key saath manchu-shally key silai kaa ack mishran bunn jaate hain. isaliye king samrat cheeni prateekon mein pahane hue honge aur aise rung pahanenge joe ack cheeni samrat key roop mein unake shasson koo darshaate hain, jabaki usee samay unake vastron kii silai ney ghode kii sawari aur teer chalaane kii manchu yuddh parampara seey apana sambandh vyakt kiya.nayaa dress code "huangchao lickie tushi" () mein paaya gayaa thaa jise kianlong samrat dwara varsh 1759 taka commission kiya gayaa thaa kyonki vaha chintit thaa kii manchu logon key reeti-rivaajon koo haan cheeni tarikon seey cumm kiya jaayega. baarah aabhushanon koo 1759 mein phir seey pesh kiya gayaa aur pahale chaufu aur baad mein jeefu parr king rajvansh key darbar key vastron parr phir seey dikhaai diyaa.
huangchao lickie tushi" isaliye varsh 1766 taka prakaashit aur lagu kiya gayaa thaa; isamen samraton, rajkumaron, raeeson aur unaki patniyon, manchu adhikaariyon dwara apani patniyon aur betiyon key saath pahane jaane vaale kapadon koo niyantrit karane vaalaa ack lamba khand thaa, aur haan cheeni purushon dwara pahane jaane vaale dress code koo bhee nirdhaarit kiya gayaa thaa joe ack mandarin bunn gaye they aur apani patniyon key saath manchu darbar kii seva curr rahey they aur joe loga ack niyukti kii prateeksha curr rahey they. nirdhaarit kapadon koo aadhikarik aur anaupchaarik kapadon mein vibhajit kiya gayaa thaa aur phir aupchaarik, ardh-samaan aur anaupchaarik shreniyon mein vibhajit kiya gayaa thaah aupchaarik aadhikarik kapade aur ardh-samaan kapade adalat mein pahane jaate they; anaupchaarik aadhikarik kapade aadhikarik vyavasaay parr yatra karate samay pahane jaate they, jaba adalat key manoranjan mein bhaag lete they aur mahatvapurna gharelu avsaron parr; gair-aadhikarik aupchaarik kapade parivarik avsaron parr pahane jaate they. kapadon koo bhee mausamon dwara niyantrit kiya jaataa thaa.
18veen shatabdi key anta seey 19veen shatabdi key pahale aadhe taka.
jiaking aur davuguang kaal mein, manchu key kapade vikasit hue aur mahilaaon key kapadon koo sajaane key liye adhik sajawat kaa upayog kiya gayaa.
19veen shatabdi key madhya taka, manchu mahilaaon key vastra key matixiu () sleeve cuff vyaapak hoe gaye aur cuff kaa aakar bhee badaa hoe gayaa, vishesh roop seey manchu darbar kii mahilaaon dwara pahane jaane vaale aupchaarik utsav coat parr.
chean ganarajya.
1911 taka, antim king rajvansh key samrat koo sunn yaat-saine dwara giraaya gayaa aur king darbar key nidhan key kaaran king rajvansh key sartorial niyam vilupt hoe gaye. jaba chean ganarajya kii sthaapana hui, tou poore chean mein purushon ney apani kataaren kaat deen aur paschimi shally key kapade pahane.
uttari abhiyaan ney 1928 mein beijing mein pravesh kiya aur shahar key prati tiraskar kiya; unake sainikon ney una logon key saath vyavhaar kiya joe purani sarkaar mein kaam karate they aur "sub kuchh mitaa denaa chaahte they": unhone manchu mahilaaon key keshvinyas aur magua pahanane parr pratibandh lagaa diyaa; unhone cheeni calender kaa paalan karane key liye mandir melon parr bhee pratibandh lagaa diyaa.
kizuang key prakaar.
manchu parampara key anusaar, purushon aur mahilaaon donon key baahari kapadon mein jackett yaa baniyan key saath ack poorna lambai kaa vastra shamil hotaa haye, jabaki chhote coat aur patloon koo aantarik vastron key roop mein pahana jaataa haye.
king rajvansh key dauran, tatvon aur visheshtaon key saath nae prakaar key kapade joe manchu parampara koo sandarbhit karate hain, bhee dikhaai diye, jisase manchu aur haan cheeni donon dwara pahane jaane vaale aupchaarik aur ardh-aupchaarik poshak key cutt mein badalaav aaya; udaaharan key liye, manchu vastra apane shareer key daaeen or bund hoe gaye, unake vastron key neeche 4-slitt (jabaki haan cheeni kewal dou pahanate they) joe ghode kii sawari koo suvidhajanak banaate they, baahon key aakar koo lambe aur chaude seey sankeern curr diyaa gayaa thaa. kuchh baajuon mein matixiu cuff they. king rajvansh kii kuchh darbari poshaaken una visheshtaon aur visheshtaon koo sanrakshit karati hain joe ming rajvansh kii vijay seey pahale manchu dwara pahane jaane vaale kapadon seey alag hain. king rajvansh key adhikaari darbar key kapade pahanate they, joe darbar mein manchu key kapadon key bhee roop they.
king rajvansh mein pahane jaane vaale kuchh darbari kapadon koo bhee haan cheeni key darbari kapadon seey apanaaya gayaa thaa (vishesh roop seey ming rajvansh seey jaba praarambhik king samraton ney ming rajvansh sansthanon aur naukarshahi pranali koo apanaaya thaa) lekin manchu visheshtaon koo dikhaane key liye ise phir seey banaaya gayaa thaa. darbari kapadon ney haan cheeni alankaran design aur sajawat (jaise.jee. cheeni dragon kaa upayog, samprabhuta key baarah prateek), aur paanch rangon key prateekvaad kaa upayog (ee.jee. neele rung koo manchu key rajvansh key rung key roop mein apanaaya gayaa thaa, jabaki laal rung koo taalaa gayaa thaa kyonki yeh ming rajvansh kaa rajvansh kaa rung thaa).
aupchaarik court dress/lifu/chaofu.
lifu (<unk>, shaabdik roop seey "anushthaan poshak") aupchaarik yaa aupchaarik darbari poshak thee; way matixieu cuffs dwara visheshataaen theen aur manchu kapadon kii visheshtaon koo sanrakshit karane mein sabse roodhivaadi theen.
chaofu (Косет, shaabdik roop seey. "court dress"), jise "audience robe" yaa "raajya kaa robe" key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye, aadhikarik aupchaarik court dress (laifu) hain. way samraton aur darbar key adhikaariyon dwara sabse gambhir raajya samarohon parr pahane jaate hain; jaise kii simhaasan parr samrat key aarohan key dinn, shaahi shadiyon, janmadin, nae saal, sheetkaleen sankranti aur swarg aur prithvi key liye balidan.
purushon key liye king chafu koo ming rajvansh key darbar kii poshak key aadhar parr vikasit kiya gayaa thaa; haalaanki isamen atirikt vishisht visheshtaen theen, jaise kii isake chaopao mein manchu matixiu cuff, aur baju mein saade kapade key sammilan, aur collar kaa aakar. purushon key liye chaufu mein ack vastra hotaa haye, jise chaopao (shaabdik roop seey) kahaa jaataa haye. "darbar kaa vastra"); grishmakaaleen shally key chaofu aur sheetkaleen shally key dou roop they. aupchaarik collar key saath pahana jaane vaalaa chaopao, jise piling (<unk>) yaa pigeon kahaa jaataa haye, gardan key chaaron or. samrat, rajkumar, kuleen aur uchch adhikaari topi pahanate they, jinhen "chauguan" kahaa jaataa thaa, jinhen mausamon (sardiyon aur garmiyon), rankon aur ling key anusaar viniyamit aur pahana jaataa thaa. samrat key liye rung chamkile peele they, spasht uttaradhikari (mukut rajkumar) key liye khubani peela (jhinghuang); samrat key anya putron key liye sunhara peela (jinhuang, joe peele key bajaay narangi rung key karib dikhta haye). pahale seey chauthe darje key rajkumaron aur shaahi duke koo neela, bhura yaa koee anya rung pahanana padata thaa jaba taka kii samrat unhein sunhara peela vastra naa dey. neela kaalaa rung nichale darje key rajkumaron, raeeson aur uchch shreni key adhikaariyon dwara pahana jaataa thaa.
mahilaaon key liye chaufu mein ack chaopao, ack chaugua aur ack scurt shamil thee jise chaopao key neeche pahana jaataa haye jise chaokun kahaa jaataa haye. chaopao, mahilaaon key liye ack aupchaarik darbar kaa vastra haye, jisaki visheshta collar aur underarm bandhan key beach ell-aakar key seeme key saath haye. chaugua ack lambi lambai kaa darbar baniyan haye joe chaupaao parr pahana jaataa haye. isamen gahari bhujaaen aur dhalaan vaale kandhe kii seam hoti hain aur saamane kii or khulati hain. yeh ack ming rajvansh key baniyan seey utpann huaa haye joe ming maharani dwara pahana jaataa haye; gahare katey hue haath key udghaatan aur dhalaan vaale kandhe halanki jaanvaron kii twacha key nirmaan seey praapt hue prateet hotey hain.
utsav kaa vastra/jifu.
jifu (), jise utsav key vastra key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye, kaa upayog khush tyohaaron aur samarohon (ack bhoj kii tarah) key liye kiya jaataa haye.
jifu longpao aur jifu mangpao.
jeefu dragon robbs (; 5-panje vaale dragon) aur jeefu ajgar robbs (mangpao; 4-panje vaale dragon key saath robbs) kaa upayog vibhinn samarohon (jaise tyohar bhoj aur sainya nireekshan) key liye ardh-aupchaarik darbar kii poshak key roop mein kiya jaataa thaa. way shaahi parivaar key sadasyon aur nichale darje key adhikaariyon dwara pahane jaate they. 1759 key sumptuary niyamon seey pahale, jeefu ney manchu-shally key cutt kaa paalan kiya aur rangon aur dragon-panje kii sankhya key sambandh mein kaanoonon kaa paalan karna padaa; haalaanki, jeefu parr dragon pattern kaa vitaran viniyamit naheen thaa aur praarambhik king rajvansh key vastra ney chhaati aur pichhale kshetron parr badey curling dragon rakhane kii ming parampara kaa paalan kiya. mahilaaon ney ack samaan court dress key roop mein jeefu dragon robbs aur ajgar robbs bhee pahane they. 19veen shatabdi key madhya taka, manchu mahilaaon key vastra key matixiu () sleeve cuff vyaapak hoe gaye aur cuff kaa aakar bhee badaa hoe gayaa, vishesh roop seey manchu darbar kii mahilaaon dwara pahane jaane vaale aupchaarik utsav coat parr.
5-panje vaale dragon kaa upayog samrat, unake uttaradhikari, uchch padasth rajkumaron aur kuchh cumm adhikaariyon key liye kiya jaataa thaa, jinhen samrat unhein 5-panje vaale dragon pradaan kartaa thaa. 4-panje vaale dragon koo teesare sthaan key rajkumaron aur iss pada seey neeche key kissy bhee vyakti dwara pahana jaataa thaa. una niyamon koo antatah king rajvansh key anta key karib nazarandaj curr diyaa gayaa thaa; aur, paanch-panje vaale dragon key saath jeefu koo kissy bhee rank kii parwah kiye binaa kissy ney bhee pahanana shuru curr diyaa thaa.
samrat key liye rung chamkile peele they, spasht uttaradhikari (mukut rajkumar) key liye khubani peela (jhinghuang); samrat key anya putron key liye sunhara peela (jinhuang, joe peele key bajaay narangi rung key karib dikhta haye). pahale seey chauthe darje key rajkumaron aur shaahi duke koo neela, bhura yaa koee anya rung pahanana padata thaa jaba taka kii samrat unhein sunhara peela vastra naa dey. neela kaalaa rung nichale darje key rajkumaron, raeeson aur uchch shreni key adhikaariyon dwara pahana jaataa thaa.
jifupao.
shaadi aur pramukh parivarik avsaron parr joe adalat seey asambandhit hain, jifupao (<unk>) mein aamtaur parr matixieu cuff hotey hain aur lagbhag jifu longpao/mangpao key samaan hotey hain. kuleen mahilaaen aur adhikaariyon kii patniyaan cheeni charitra shau () aur anya rupankanon key saath aathh goal key saath vastra pahanati theen; unhein ack surkot (jifugua) key saath pahana jaataa thaa jise 8 goal key saath shau yaa pushp pattern key saath sajaaya jaataa thaa. vastra aur sarkot donon koo heim aur cuff parr "lishui" key saath yaa usake binaa sajaaya jaa sakata thaa.
longgua/jifu guaa.
longgua, jise jifu guaa (<unk>) key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye, mahila kaa sarkot thaa joe ack ardh-aupchaarik dragon vastra (jifu; i.ee. utsav kaa vastra). jaba manchu ney king rajvansh kii sthaapana kii, tou unhone apani aadhikarik darbari poshak mein dragon key saath goal goal jode. 18veen shatabdi key madhya mein dress code key mankikaran key baad, 8 dragon golon key saath longgua maharani dahej, maharani, rajvanshiya rakhailon (pahale, dusare aur teesare rank) aur crown prince kii patni key liye aarakshit hoe gayaa.
bandook.
ganfu golakar kadhaai vaale goal key saath sarkot kaa ack roop thaa, joe 1759 seey aadhikarik darbar kii poshak kaa hissa thaa; yeh chafu yaa jifu parr pahana jaataa thaa. yeh bachhade kii lambai kaa hotaa haye aur saade saatan seey banaa hotaa haye; yeh saamane kii or bund hoe jaataa haye. yeh shaahi parivaar dwara pahana jaataa thaa; uchch rank key loga paanch-panje vaale dragon pahanate they joe saamane kii or hotey they jabaki nichale rank key loga profile mein paanch-panje vaale dragon pahanate they.
bufu.
bufu () koo jifu key saath king rajvansh key darbar key adhikaariyon (sainya aur nagrik donon) aur sensor nagrik naukarshahon dwara pahana jaataa thaa. bufu aadami kaa sarkot thaa jisamen ack vargakar darbar kaa prateek chihn thaa, jise buzzy kahaa jaataa thaa. saamane ack rank kaa prateek chinh haye aur bufu key peechhe ack. nagrik adhikaari aam taur parr pakshi design key saath rank baij pahanate hain; sainya adhikaari jaanvaron (yaa jaanvaron) design key saath rank baij pahanate they, aur sensor nagrik naukarshah zeezee key saath rank baij pahanate they. kapadon parr buzzy kaa upayog ming rajvansh key darbar key kapadon kii parampara kii nirantarta haye. mahilaaen bufu bhee pahanati theen joe aksar apane pati key bufu parr upayog kiye jaane vaale prateek chinh parr paaee jaane vaali darpan chhavi hoti thee; isaliye, jaba way ack saath baithate they, tou janwar vaivaahik sadbhaav kaa prateek ack-dusare kii or munh karate they.
dragon yaa ajgar shaahi duke aur raeeson key buzzy parr pahana jaataa thaa. nichale darje key kuleen loga jinhen panje vaale dragon pahanane kii anumati naheen thee, way 19veen shatabdi key anta mein khurr vaale dragon key saath buzzy pahanate they.
farr sarkot/duaanjhaao.
farr sarkot aamtaur parr sardiyon key jeefu mein uchch padasth adhikaariyon dwara pahane jaate they.
sadharan poshak (changfu)/aakasmik poshak (bianfu).
changfu (samanya roop seey seva), jise "sadharan poshak" key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye, changfu koo aamtaur parr matixiu cuff dwara chihnit kiya jaataa thaa. anaupchaarik aadhikarik kapade una avsaron key liye pahane jaate they joe pramukh samaroh yaa sarkari vyavasaay naheen hotey they. mahilaaon key liye ardh-samaan gair-aadhikarik poshak koo kadhaai seey bhavya roop seey sajaaya gayaa thaa aur 19veen shatabdi key madhya taka haan cheeni sanskriti key prabhaav koo darshaate hue vipareet seemaon kaa upayog kiya gayaa thaa.bianfu (<unk>) samanya pahanane key roop hain, jinka upayog rosemarra key aur avkash key roop mein aakasmik kapadon key roop mein kiya jaataa haye aur inhen king court dwara viniyamit naheen kiya jaataa thaa. way aam taur parr matixiu cuff naheen rakhate they. 
xinfu.
xinfu (<unk>) yatra key kapade hain jinka upayog aamtaur parr sarvekshan yaatraon aur shikaar key bhramnon mein kiya jaataa thaa jisamen aamtaur parr ghode kii sawari aur tirandaji shamil hoti haye. adhikansh zinfu saade rung key hotey hain aur vistrit sajawat kaa abhaav hotaa haye.
joote.
manchu mahilaaon ney pair baandhane kaa abhyaas naheen kiya; banner mahilaaon koo pair baandhane key reeti-rivaajon koo apanaane seey bhee manaa kiya gayaa thaa, halanki kuchh manchu mahilaaon ney iss niyam kaa ullanghan kiya thaa. manchu mahilaaon key liye manchu jooton mein manchu platform joote shamil hain, jinka upayog haan cheeni key bandhe pairon key chaal kaa anukaran karane key liye kiya jaataa thaa.
vyutpann aur prabhaav.
chean.
changtion.
changshan, jise changpao key roop mein bhee jaanaa jaataa haye. "lambi shirt/lamba gaaun"), jise haan cheeni pahanate they, ming rajvansh key kapadon seey vyutpann thaa, lekin ise manchu purushon key vastra key baad banaaya gayaa thaa. iss prakaar isane apane ming rajvansh key changtion koo ghataakar, pipa key aakar key collar koo apnakar aur loop aur batanon key upayog koo apnakar manchu kapadon key tatvon koo apanaaya. neetaao kii tulanaa mein, changshan koo ack gatiheen jeevan shally key liye anukoolit kiya gayaa thaa aur iss prakaar chaar key bajaay kewal dou tukade they. aur matixiu cuff kii kamee key kaaran changshan cheeni purushon dwara pahana jaataa thaa joe shram kaary mein sanlagn naheen they.
cheongsam.
cheongsam manchu vastra kaa vyutpann thaa.

