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Upstream or downstream?

doi: 10.5694/mja15.00718 The Todd River, Alice Springs. Photo taken in March 2015. When I first looked at a map of Alice Springs, the ephemeral Todd River was marked as a deceptive blue snake, winding its way through the centre of town. For the local Arrernte people, the river is known as Lhere Mparntwe. In my head, I pictured a desert oasis, brown-skinned children gleaming with sun and water, screaming with glee as they plunged from rope swings into the cool river water. During my first week in Alice, somebody told me that it’s only after you have seen the river flow three times that you can be considered a local. The rest of the time it is just a dusty creek bed, filled with the soft rusty sand that has now found its way into almost every item that I own.