Your Ultimate Guide to Face Fillers

Here's what really goes into getting "Instagram face."
Woman with dotted lines on her face
Getty Images; Alexa De Paulis

“Getting work done” is no longer the secret it once was. But if you’re considering going under the knife or needle, you deserve to be informed. In our series Life in Plastic, we’re breaking down everything you need to know, from injectables to invasive treatments. Choose to change your looks or don’t—the point is, the choice is yours.

Once shrouded in mystery, face fillers are now gaining visibility—both on Instagram and offline. We won't go so far as to say the taboo has completely lifted, as the decision to book an injectables appointment still seems to elicit some strong reactions. But discussion around these cosmetic procedures has gone beyond frankly misogynist tabloid speculation. You're now equally likely to hear a friend voicing curiosity about a procedure or come across an influencer's live demo.

While that's arguably a good thing, there's a fine line to walk between normalizing injectables and being too flippant about them. After all, this still counts as a medical procedure and should be treated with more consideration than getting bangs or picking up a new eyeshadow palette. Everyone seems to have an opinion on fillers, but further discussion often reveals huge gaps in the knowledge surrounding them. For instance, "face fillers" might make you automatically think of overblown lip injections. In actuality, there are at least nine common spots on your face that can be injected with fillers. (And if you go to a licensed, board-certified derm or plastic surgeon, you shouldn't be leaving your appointment with an overinjected mouth or a botched job.)

The Different Kinds of Fillers

The first thing you need to know is that not all filler is created equal. The most common are based on hyaluronic acid (a substance that occurs naturally in our bodies and is highly attracted to water and binds to moisture; it's a popular ingredient in moisturizers). These typically last six months to a year (depending on placement and how your body naturally breaks the substance down) and can be instantly reversed with an injection of hyaluronidase, an enzyme that melts filler away should you decide you no longer want it.

Non-HA fillers are called biostimulatory fillers and are made from other materials. These include Sculptra (made with poly-L-lactic acid, a biodegradable manmade polymer), Radiesse (made with calcium hydroxyapatite, the mineral teeth and bones are made out of), and Bellafill (which suspends polymethylmethacrylate, or nonbiodegradable acrylic beads, in bovine collagen). Most (but not all) fillers have an immediately visible effect. Jessica Weiser, M.D., notes that unlike HA filler, "biostimulatory fillers can take 6 to 12 weeks to take full effect." These typically tend to last longer since they're made to help stimulate natural collagen production but cannot be easily undone. The FDA has approved biostimulatory fillers only for nasolabial folds and cheek acne scars, but many licensed practitioners use them off-label.

The second thing you need to know is that this will not be an affordable appointment—and if it is, something is suspicious. With every kind of filler, there's a risk of complications, ranging from scabbing and scarring to even blindness, which is why it's imperative to do your homework. We asked three trusted derms to give average costs for their own clinics, but these numbers will vary widely by geographic location and practice. The best thing to do is call practices in your area to get a price estimate and consultation. But first we suggest reading through this list. It definitely pays to be prepared.

All the Places You Can Get Face Fillers


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If you're investing in lip fillers, you may have to get them done more frequently than the rest of your face (possibly every few months); the more you move an injected region, the faster your body metabolizes the material. There are also a range of options for augmentation. "Your lips can be subtly enhanced to soften fine lip lines and define contour or more dramatically plumped depending on the individual desire of the patient," says Weiser. "It can also soften vertical lines that result from loss of volume."

Simon Ourian, M.D., whose Beverly Hills clinic Epione is particularly popular for injectables, counts lips as one of his most-requested treatments. He estimates the average cost at $2,900 to $4,900. "Fillers can be charged by units or by area," he says. "In my practice we charge by area to achieve the desired look each patient wants instead of limiting them to a certain amount of units per area." That pricing model may also be due to the fact that he compounds his own formations with FDA-approved fillers. "For a more youthful, plumped appearance, I use a combination of hydrophilic-based fillers and a nonhydrophilic formula to create a more defined appearance for areas such as the lip borders," he says.

Dendy Engelman, M.D. prefers a thinner, softer product made from hyaluronic acid like Juvederm Volbella for lips. In her clinic, they charge by the syringe, so based on the amount of product you need, the starting price is typically $1,000 to $1,400. (And FYI, to get the look most influencers have, it's typically two to three syringes, if not more.)


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Want more lifted and sculpted cheekbones? There's filler for that. But the midface is an area where you might see a cannula more commonly used than a needle. "Cannulas are blunt-tipped thin tubes used for filler placement," says Weiser. Because they lack the sharp tip of a needle, they're less likely to be inserted directly into a blood vessel, causing potential complications that can be as severe as blindness. "The one drawback of the cannula is that they are not quite as precise as needles, so occasionally more product volume is needed, or the result may be slightly less exact than intended," she adds. "Many experienced providers choose to use a combination of cannula for large-scale injections and then a needle for the fine and more precise aspects."

Your dermatologist or plastic surgeon will apply or inject a local anesthetic to the treated area, create an opening with a needle, and slide the cannula in. As for the technique and cost, that depends on the result you want. "The midface loses fat and structural support from the cheekbone resulting in a flattening and shadowing of your cheek," says Weiser. "Filler can be used along the cheekbone to a more youthful contour to your cheeks." She estimates that this type of midface injection can cost around $1,200, and typically those getting this treatment tend to be older and have already lost volume in their cheeks due to aging. But, again, if you want the "Instagram face" look, there's also the option to contour your cheeks, creating a sharper, lifted cheekbone instead of making your midface look fuller. Expect that to start around $650.


Temples are another area of the face that will lose fat and become hollow over time, according to Weiser. You likely won't need too much product here, but pricing also factors in complexity of treatment. "Treating a temple hollow could cost $1,500 or more," she says. This is one of those "no-filler filler" treatments where, if done correctly, it won't look like you've had any work done. Currently this isn't an FDA-approved use, although licensed practitioners do often use injectables off-label (like jaw Botox for teeth grinding).


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Some patients ask for jawline filler in order to compensate for loss of bone structure over time, while others simply want to sculpt a more angular profile. Ourian cites jawline contouring as the most popular treatment in his clinic. "For a chiseled appearance, I created a calcium-based and hyaluronic acid formula," he says, estimating the cost tends range between $3,900 to $5,900. (Note again, that this is off-label use.)

Your dermatologist may also use a thicker hyaluronic acid filler to create the effect. "You want fillers that are thicker for areas where you want a lift," says Engelman. "For example, Juvederm Voluma is the thickest hyaluronic acid filler on the market." She sticks to these fillers in her practice because they are reversible if patients should change their minds about the results.


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Chin filler is another off-label use, and patients might request this as part of jawline contouring, or as a separate treatment. Weiser notes that chin filler "more sharply delineates your lower face from your neck and further enhances the contour of your jawline."

Ourian sees many patients who request chin and jawline augmentation together and estimates the total cost at $3,900 to $5,900. "It is important to understand each patient's natural facial structure anatomy and work from there," he says. "I use a 'pointillist' technique that creates a very natural, blended, and even look. This allows me to apply a fraction of a droplet at a time and blend the filler into the desired areas, as well as control the amount of filler being dispersed."

Melolabial Folds

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Also known as nasolabial folds, this was one of the first areas of the face to be FDA-approved for filler treatment. These are the lines on either side of your mouth that resemble parentheses on your face. Weiser explains that they can be emphasized by sleeping on your side, which places more pressure on one side of your face, "breaking down collagen and structural skin support more quickly."

Cost may depend on how deep the lines are and how many syringes you require—again keeping in mind that one syringe may cost $800 to $1,500, depending on where you go. Weiser also adds that facial areas rich in blood supply, which occur around the nose and mouth, are at the highest risk for bruising, but this should subside within a week.

Tear Troughs

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The tear trough (also called the infraorbital hollow) is that area of skin under your eye where dark circles can form. It's also an off-label area where you need to proceed with caution and preferably go to someone who specializes in treating the area. "A more complex tear trough could cost $1,500 or more," says Weiser.

That's not to say it can't be safely done, but there are complications you should be aware of. "There are major blood supplies around your nose and right under your eyes, which makes fillers in these areas very risky," says Engelman. Weiser adds that "some of the arteries near the inner corner of your eye and surrounding the nose have direct pathways to the artery that supplies blood to the eye, and a serious error could result in blindness."

Injecting the tear trough with filler helps treat the appearance of dark circles more effectively than any topical eye cream you can find—that's because it creates volume, effectively minimizing any shadows created by a hallowed undereye. "Shifting of the undereye fat pads creates a tired appearance," says Weiser. "Small droplets of carefully placed filler can help to lift the overlying skin to create a more rested appearance."

Laugh Lines

Alternately called smoker's lines, laugh lines, or perioral rhytids, these are the little vertical lines and creases caused by repetitive movement of the mouth. "By placing small amounts of filler into the vermilion border [the delineation of your lip] and also into the skin between your lips and nose, the lines and creases can be softened or eliminated," says Weiser.

You may not need a lot of product here, but due to the complexity of the procedure, costs will likely be high for the area covered. "Laugh-line treatment starts around $3,000 for the filler that lasts one to three years," says Ourian.


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So-called liquid nose jobs are gaining popularity on Instagram for their ability to temporarily reshape your nose without requiring you to go under the knife. Although the procedure is noninvasive, it also an off-label use and requires someone who specializes in the technique, similar to undereye filler.

"This is one of the highest risk areas for filler injection and should always be performed by a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon," cautions Weiser. When performed by a highly skilled physician, liquid rhinoplasty can create many of the same effects as a surgical rhinoplasty, albeit without the permanent changes. "It can be done to soften a dorsal hump, lift the nasal tip, or to straighten the line of your nose," says Weiser.

Ourian, who has shared videos of the procedure on Instagram, estimates the cost to range from $3,900 to $8,900. At other less popular (but still reputable) clinics, costs can start around $1,000. As for the amount of time it takes? 15 minutes.

Sarah Wu is a writer in Berlin. Follow her at @say.wu.