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EwinRacing Flash Series Gaming Chairs


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High_Voltage last won the day on July 13

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  1. @kingdew11 No worries at all! I should also thank you for this interesting discussion! I've signed up for email alerts for this thread when I started it, and even now it doesn't feel like a chore at all to reply and help people from time to time. Quite on the contrary, really happy to see activity here despite the platform being so old. As for your project, good luck, and keep us updated! You might even want to start a separate thread about it, but I'd appreciate if you mentioned it here as well. P.S. I just realised today that there could be a simpler method to let you get rid of the internal screen. If we assume that that BIOS setting you changed really switched the startup graphics to Nvidia (while multiplexers connect everything to Intel), you could just force the HDMI port multiplexer (PS8271 on Page 37) to stay permanently in Nvidia mode, which could be accomplished by removing just 2 resistor jumpers (RH161 and RH171 on Page 19).
  2. @kingdew11 Hm, well spotted on the eDP HPD! This is actually a hot plug detect pin, we might not even need it depending on what we do. That resistor is specified as zero Ohms, so basically a jumper. What about what pins we need, I think yeah, it's TX0+-, TX1+-, HPD (maybe), and AUX+- (EDIT: and ground, of course). Pretty sure any kind of power isn't necessary. AUX diff-pair, however, is. I'm pretty sure it is used to read out the EDID information from the screen (stuff like supported resolutions, refresh rates, etc.). Soldering is going to be tricky. I'd suggest you find some scrap boards to practice with first. Get yourself some good 60/40 solder (with lead), I'd recommend 0.5mm diameter, with rosin core, or any flux core you can get, just not fluxless. Factory-made PCBs are all soldered with lead-free solder nowadays, which has higher melting temperature. So, for desoldering stuff like capacitors, it is always a good idea to dilute existing solder on the pads with some 60/40 stuff, it'll melt easier. Also, for desoldering chips, you can get a hot air soldering gun, like one of those no-name "858D" stations, they're incredibly cheap! It'll also work well for small individual components if you're not confident enough with soldering iron or don't have a good enough one.
  3. Hi, @kingdew11! Good thing you're feeling better! Can't say anything definite regarding the crashes. I don't think anyone has tested this mod extensively with an AMD card before, mostly because AMD card users don't need the mod at all in the first place. Still, as you have guessed, I can't imagine what part of the mod could be the reason. It's definitely not one of the changes I made for Nvidia compatibility (can describe in more detail what exactly I've done there if you're interested). Might be some of the Svl7's stuff, but still very unlikely. If I were you, I'd flash back and forth between the stock v3.08 and the mod several times to make sure there is a correlation. Alternatively, try to reassemble your hardware setup, ensuring to blow some compressed air in all of the connectors and plugging-unplugging them several times, and see if this affects the frequency of the crashes. Trying a clean Windows install might also be worth trying. Finally, if the mod is indeed causing more crashes, you could maybe just stick to the stock BIOS until you manage to get a better card. Or, try Svl7's original mod if you have an aftermarket WIFI card for example. (will also be interesting to see whether Svl7's mod is causing more frequent crashes too) What about LVDS and eDP modification, as you have correctly discovered, the internal panel connector (JLVDS1) has both LVDS and eDP signals. The panel, however, only uses LVDS, and eDP is left unconnected. I suppose it was routed there to allow manufacturer to use different panels. If you look at the plastic plug on the panel's cable, you'll see the spots corresponding to eDP pins don't have any wires in them. But wires and their tiny crimped contacts in such connectors can be taken out using a small needle, so you could in theory obtain a sacrificial spare panel cable from Aliexpress and reassemble it to connect to eDP pins that we need. Now, the eDP signal coming to those contacts is in theory the same one that goes to the PS8625 chip. But I believe that two things can't be plugged in the same eDP at the same time. So, in the end you might end up having to desolder the PS8625, for example. Now, let's trace the eDP starting from the connector. We start with EDP_sthsth_CON, which connect to EDP_sthsth_C through a group of capacitors CT30-CT35 on Page 34. You will first of all need to check if these are installed. Now, the EDP_sthsth_C is the main source signal which comes directly out of multiplexer on Page 38. At the same time, EDP_sthsth_C connects to EDP_sthsth through another group of capacitors on Page 34 (CT14-CT19), and this EDP_sthsth goes to our PS8625. So, my theory is that you'll find CT30-CT35 not installed, and what you'll have to do is to remove CT14-CT19 and install them in CT30-CT35 locations. This will simultaneously enable eDP on panel connector and disable eDP supplied to LVDS chip. Alternatively, in case both groups of capacitors are present, you'll just have to desolder CT14-CT19 to ensure eDP isn't going to be connected to two signal sinks at the same time. Finally, who knows, maybe leaving the PS8625 connected won't hurt (as long as the LVDS panel isn't plugged in, otherwise you'd get EDID conflict), and all you have to do is to wire up a spare connector with wires matching eDP pins. EDIT: By the way, to locate components on the PCB easier, you can download a boardview file. Just search for "Lenovo Y410p boardview", I just tried and the first couple of results let me get a file without registration. Now, this particular one is in .tvw format, so you'll have to "obtain" a copy of Tebo ICT View to open it.
  4. @kingdew11 Hi! First of all, really glad to hear that you've managed to fix the issue after all! I was also thinking to offer you to just run the stock flasher from Windows, but figured it shouldn't work as by touching the jumper (and then even resoldering the CMOS battery) you have surely reset BIOS settings, and the default setting for "Allow BIOS flash back" is "Disabled". Because the mod is already based on the latest BIOS version for this PC, this setting should have prevented you from flashing any earlier version or the same version of BIOS. So, this means that either you didn't actually reset your BIOS settings even after all these manipulations, or there is something else that I'm missing out. Hmm, now that I think of it, I remember that if BIOS flash back is disabled, it should reboot into flasher's UEFI executable, but then refuse to actually flash and just say the flash back is disabled. Yet somehow, it seems to have flashed anyway... Just checked my own guide from the first page again and it says you can just flash stock 3.08 if you don't like the mod, without mentioning that you have to change the option. So maybe I've changed the default setting for flash back to "enabled" because it was too annoying to change it every time when flashing different versions during developing. What a lucky coincidence! As for Win+R, sounds like something definitely went wrong. The reason I recommend using a USB drive with an LED in the original guide is that you can figure out whether the PC is actively reading the drive while getting firmware files from it for recovery flash. This way you can always tell if it's doing the thing or not. The recovery flash system itself doesn't rely on booting anything from USB flash, by the way. It's much more primitive and works on a hardware level (could be managed by the EC I suspect). It has to be that way in order to be able to fix a corrupted BIOS image. How it works is that here's a small file among others on the flash drive called Yx01.bin, unrelated to DOS or the mod files or anything. This is a specifically-formatted and specifically-named file containing full BIOS dump that the recovery mode is going to look for in the root of any connected drives and flash its contents into the BIOS. It might be that Y410p would look for a file with a different name, or that the key combination for entering recovery mode would be different, but I have no idea how this could be possible as both Y510p and Y410p share identical BIOS and EC firmwares. Instead, it probably just didn't like your flash drive, or it has to be a different USB port for Y410p specifically... OK, anyway, you're thankfully back on stock 3.08 now. The revision number doesn't really mean anything from what I remember. You can check both BIOS and EC versions listed next to each other on the main BIOS screen. There should be no problem for you now to apply the mod again, and even if the EC version did indeed not change, I'd flash it again anyway just to be sure. What about modding an external screen in place of laptop's monitor, yes, reuisng the monitor cable shouldn't be a problem. However, the stock screen uses LVDS interface rather than embedded displayport (eDP) (which it gets from eDP to LVDS converter chip), although original eDP signals are also present on the connector for some reason. I suspect that the converter chip might have to be disabled or desoldered in order to use those, though. The pinout of the connector can be found within the full laptop's schematic on page 35, you can get it here. What you could do is buy a spare screen cable (like $5 on Aliexpress), take it apart and then using a needle you can remove metal contacts with wires from their original locations and put them where eDP contacts are instead, then splice a displayport cable to these wires. IMHO sounds like a fun little project to try! And I'm sure it'll handle a high refresh rate monitor no problem, displayport is displayport after all... EDIT: Displayport on that connector has 2 lanes, and if I'm right and it's Displayport v1.2, you should be able to get enough bandwidth for 1080p@144Hz at least. I wonder how one would go about splicing this into a 4-lane DP cable, though. I guess you can just leave the extra two lanes unconnected and it should still work.
  5. @kingdew11 Hi and sorry to hear that BIOS reset didn't work for you. I don't remember whether the jumpers work as intended on this model. You should definitely try shorting JME1 as well before you do anything else, just to be sure. All of this with all power sources removed, of course. Finally, if this too doesn't work, you can short the CMOS battery terminals for a second instead of desoldering it. Nothing bad will happen to it if you only do this momentarily. Then yes, the recovery flash function I was referring to is the Win+R thing. It will work even if BIOS image is corrupted which prevents PC from turning on at all. In your case everything works fine, so it should work like a charm. By the end of the recovery you'll find yourself with a stock BIOS of whatever version the recovery file was. I think it was 2.07. Then you can update to latest original image or apply the mod again. In a very unlikely event that even this doesn't work, there's always an option of reflashing BIOS using a programmer. You can usually pick up a kit for around $10, and I could instruct you how to perform the flash. Useful thing to keep around anyway! I still find it very surprising that the reset didn't help, though (provided the jumper actually did reset the other settings). Not much is known about these extra settings and that's why people are highly recommended against messing with them, but I would be really surprised if some of them are somehow stored separately to others in some non-volatile memory. Good luck with getting your hands on a 2070S, by the way! Now that the crypto is crashing, the market should hopefully get much better soon. What about desktop conversion, in theory, if you had a spare displayport cable laying around that you didn't mind cutting in half, you could solder it to the internal screen connector and get an output this way, but I've never tried that myself. I could guide you on what to do but note that it'll require some good soldering skills. Finally, thanks a lot, but no need for donations. The fact that everyone enjoys it and finds it useful is rewarding enough on its own. And after all, my contribution isn't as big as it seems: I essentially just modded the Svl7's mod to include an extra patch for Nvidia, everything else is basically theirs, including the extra settings unlock, WIFI whitelist removal, and most importantly, the clever flashing method that allows to bypass BIOS signature check.
  6. Hi, @kingdew11! First of all, I'm glad to hear everything's been working well for you so far, and you're enjoying the mod and the adapter! Yes, it should be totally safe for you to do a CMOS reset, and it should in theory return the setting you've changed into default state which will fix your issue. In case this doesn't work for whatever reason (and it really should work!), don't panic as there's always the recovery flash option. Also, if I remember correctly how the system works, you might get an image on the internal monitor if you insert the original ultrabay GPU (in case you still have it). The system will enter SLI mode which will connect the screen to the internal Nvidia GPU rather than Intel graphics. This laptop has a very complicated screen switching system. Both the internal screen and the HDMI/VGA ports are connected through multiplexers which can select either Intel or Nvidia chip as video source. In non-SLI mode (when Ultrabay is empty or when a desktop eGPU is installed via adapter), the screen and the outputs are connected to Intel's chip in order to enable Optimus technology. In Optimus, frames processed by Nvidia GPU are sent back through PCIe to Intel's graphics in order to be displayed. This by the way is also what allows people to get eGPU-accelerated graphics looped back to their laptop's internal screen (only works with Nvidia). Now, when the original Ultrabay GPU is installed, the multiplexers are both switched to source from internal Nvidia chip, as SLI isn't compatible with Optimus. Intel's graphics gets completely disabled, and the two GPUs get linked into SLI. What I think you've got happening right now is that you've switched your primary display to internal Nvidia chip, while multiplexers are connecting all screens to Intel's one. As for your second question, I'm not sure if there's an easy way to do this, or whether it's possible at all. Some laptops will start showing boot process on an external screen by default if their main screen is physically disconnected, but from my experience with y510p, this platform doesn't do that. It could be because of this multiplexed system that the signal actually tries to appear on some HDMI or somewhere but is getting lost because of incorrect configuration... Or could be that the thing just doesn't do it at all. If what you want is to get the BIOS to appear on eGPU outputs, one thing to try would be to physically disable both the Intel graphics and the internal Nvidia chip, but even then it's not at all guaranteed to work.
  7. @StBalthazar Yeah, the m.2 connector here is pretty much useless. There's nothing routed to it apart from SATA and some power. And speaking of running games while having this bottleneck, I think it'll still run a lot of modern titles pretty well. You can probably find enough benchmarks that use similar hardware and an x1 link with modern GPUs and modern games to get the general idea. Also, speaking of reading the thread, there's a picture somewhere there showing how someone managed to insert both an HDD and an adaptor at the same time, if that helps. Also, the adaptor is easily removable, as is an Ultrabay HDD caddy, so if you for example only use eGPU for games and only need your HDD for work, it'll be easy for you to swap them. @rusTORK Don't worry about PCIe version 4. Intel only introduced it in their 11th gen CPUs. This has a 4th gen one.
  8. @StBalthazar Unfortunately, the answer to your first question is that the m.2 port in y510p is SATA only. You can verify this yourself from the schematic. The only way to get an eGPU working on this computer aside from the Ultrabay adapter would be to use mini-PCIe slot of the WLAN card and figure out some replacement option for WIFI (either a low profile USB dongle or something internal routed to one of the USBs exposed on the motherboard). With that said, I'd definitely recommend getting an actual Ultrabay adapter, either from @Swung Huang or from someone else second-hand (we've seen a couple of people selling theirs here already). Otherwise, it really feels a little bit pointless to go through all this trouble just to get a system with a very mediocre CPU as well as an x1 bus bottleneck...
  9. @frankat2501, @tecnicaemail, you're both very welcome! @frankat2501 not sure about the RAM. I guess it supports 32GB out of the box, but you should double-check. Whatever works with the stock BIOS should work with the modded one as well. @tecnicaemail no, if it has installed correctly, you don't have to do anything else. Everything should just work now. Make sure not to touch the developer settings that got unlocked in the BIOS unless you REALLY know what you're doing!
  10. @smacannon Hi and welcome on board! I'm glad you found this project interesting. It's been quite some time since I've made the mods, but I'm quite sure I made one specifically for the Y400. I guess you'll find a link to it somewhere in this thread as I didn't create a separate thread for the y400/y500 version. I also fully agree with @Tesla that getting a gt650m SLI would be a waste of money. That 100 bucks could probably buy you a gtx1050 or something similar. That is, of course, if you're able to get the adapter at all. It seems like people have been struggling to source one recently...
  11. Hi, @matic! You should contact @Swung Huang and ask him if he's got any left. His email is somewhere above in this thread. The only other way for you to get an adapter right now is either if someone here decides to sell theirs, or if someone succeeds making one (we've got a couple of people working on it right now!) On a completely unrelated note, I've also had the keyboard connector break in my Y510p. In my case it was the black locking part that fell off and I could never fit it in place again. What I ended up doing was making a wedge just the right size to fit between the PCB and the keyboard, applying necessary pressure to the cable. I've cut it out of a piece of proto-pcb (just the right thickness!) and wrapped it in couple layers of duct tape. Then I first insert the flex cable as normal, and fit this wedge on top of it into the connector, then just install the keyboard. Never had any problems with this setup so far.
  12. Yes. You can get more details from the laptop's schematic (touchpad and its connector are in page 50). As for the webcam, I kind of expected that you would want to keep it but decided to mention it anyway. Another suggestion would be just integrating a USB hub for a bunch of devices that don't need high data throughput ( such as touch panel, keyboard, webcam (at least not at that resolution), mouse, etc.). I've seen things like that done, too. Although it's quite impressive what people managed to achieve with this approach, you will be surprised by how absolutely tiny this connector is and how many pins it has (I assume you haven't bought the board yet). I would say not realistic, but you never know! I'm not sure if this is even necessary. PCI-E is a very sophisticated protocol and is capable of conducting self-calibration routine on every power-up. It sends a pre-defined packet of known data and calculates the delays and timings for every lane necessary to send/receive data correctly. Although I'm not sure exactly how much variation in wire length this procedure can compensate for. I would say try keeping your wires the same length anyways, make sure to use a separate biaxial high-speed cable for each differential pair (can get those by cutting cheap mini-SAS to SATA adapters. Each of those shiny blue or white cables can carry one pair.) and make sure their shields are connected to ground. Then maybe it'll work just fine. I believe soldering directly to the motherboard shouldn't be much of a problem as the connector on the motherboard side uses only through-hole mounting (holes can be cleaned and used for wires easily), as opposed to the Ultrabay device connector, which uses a row of through-holes and a row of SMD pads. Just make sure you have a way of safely desoldering the connector from the motherboard.
  13. @astrosynthesist That sounds like a neat idea. I also dream of things like that from time to time before realising how atrociously bad the battery life is going to be. Battery issues aside, the Y510p seems like a nice choice for such project, especially for its display which I found to be quite nice, despite it being a TN panel. In comparison, one of my friends got themselves an Y50-70 (the next generation in Y series), also with a full HD TN screen, and the colours were just horrible when compared to my Y510p side-to-side. Also, I love its keyboard even more than the Thinkpad ones, but guess that doesn't matter in case of a tablet. On the USB ports and m.2 cards I have to say that both Svl7's BIOS mod and mine include whitelist removal for WLAN slot. You have to remember however, that the m.2 slot in this laptop in mSATA-only and doesn't have PCIe lanes or USB routed to it. Therefore the WLAN card you've found will just not work. If you want an extra USB port, you can get a couple from webcam and touchpad connectors. I don't think it is realistically possible to print a substitute connector via 3D printing. Even if you manage to print the plastic part very accurately (maybe, using UV resin printing), you'll still need the metal contacts which are small and peculiarly-shaped. Maybe, @Swung Huang could sell you a connector? He used to make adapters for everyone here and surely still has some spare parts laying around. If not, I guess you can always desolder the other end of the connector from the motherboard and just solder to the pads directly with some high-speed cables (as I guess it would have to go via cable to some docking port anyway).
  14. @astrosynthesist I guess fan control in this laptop is something we've all dreamt of at some point. The default curve is just so incredibly bad causing throttling and system overheat even under moderate loads. You're right, in order to get control over the fan, we would need to create a custom EC firmware, which I guess isn't worth anyone's time. Or maybe, reverse-engineer existing one and append it with extra code to receive our commands via SMBUS, which is more doable but would still be very difficult due to how poorly-documented these EC chips are (I guess, all the datasheets are provided to companies under various NDAs). When I was still using my Y510p, I constantly had this idea of a neat hardware mod in mind: CPU fan uses 4 pins: power, ground, PWM for speed control, and strobe to measure RPM. You could, for example, cut the fan cable and insert an ATtiny85V or other small chip in there, powering it off fan's power and ground wires, and cutting into the PWM wire so that motherboard's PWM goes into the MCU and the MCU then controls the fan with its own PWM. Then you could load a primitive program with a look-up table (LUT) for output PWM value vs input PWM value, essentially getting yourself a custom fan curve. A fun and interesting idea which I never had enough time to explore... As for software side of the fan control and the dust removal routine, I remember seeing a very in-depth investigation into this on some forum a long while ago. They wanted to check whether there's a way to control the fan speed or is it just an "on-off" thing to rev it up to the maximum. It turned out to be the latter. @LeapingLamb The easiest way to get the connector is to desolder it off your original Ultrabay GPU (it's not like it's useful for anything nowadays, anyway). For removing it you can try hot air or/and diluting solder in the joints with low melting point alloys like Rose's metal. Maybe, some workshop can do that for you (just make sure to let them know the part you want to keep is the connector, not the board). Also, mind sharing details on the project you're working on?
  15. The program is extremely simple. If I recall correctly, it just replies to a certain read on i2c bus with some arbitrary value which was supposed to represent the temperature. You can easily get an attiny25 or even attiny10 to do this, no need for Arduino environment at all. What @Swung Huang has then discovered is that you can get actual i2c temperature sensors (e.g. TMP175 from Ti) which can be configured to the right address and happen to have the right register in the right place for the PC to be able to read temperature without the need for a microcontroller at all. But it seems like he had some troubles with it not working on some PCs?
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