 Modernisation had slowed by the early 1990s ; Savile Row tailors were " struggling to find relevance with an audience that had grown increasingly disassociated " . Three tailors , Ozwald Boateng , Timothy Everest ( an apprentice of Nutter 's ) , and Richard James , then became known for revitalising the bespoke style for the modern market - having each broken away independently from the Savile Row mould . Public relations professional Alison Hargreaves coined the term " New Bespoke Movement " to describe collectively the work of this " new generation " of tailors . Interest reached a peak in 1997 when the three were featured together in Vanity Fair . The newcomers altered their shop fronts and used marketing and publicity to their advantage ; challenging the traditional Savile Row styling , they brought twists and " a fine sense of colour to bespoke suits . " They were seen to " push the envelope of modern suit making and bespoke active wear , creating more contemporary silhouettes with bolder fabrics , " and set out to attract celebrity clients , sell their clothing via supermarket chains , and attract wider national and international custom , raising the profile of their new tailoring style . 
