 There were many types of clothing and different clothing trends in the Song period , yet clothes in China were always modeled after the seasons and as outward symbols of one 's social class . Coal used for heating one 's home was scarce and often expensive , so people often wore clothing with extra silk @-@ floss and fur @-@ lined coats in the winter . The clothing material preferred by the rich was silk , and for special occasions they had silk robes with gold brocade . The clothing material used by the poor was often hempen cloth , but cotton clothes were also used , the latter being most widely available in the south . The types of clothes worn by peasants and commoners were largely uniform in appearance ( with color standard of black and white ) , and so was the case for the upper class and elite . In fact , wealthy and leading members of society followed accepted guidelines and ritual requirements for clothing . In the upper class , each stratified grade in the social hierarchy was distinguished by the color and specific ornamentation of robes , the shape and type of headgear , and even the style of girdle worn . This rigid order was especially so during the beginning of the dynasty . However , the lines of hierarchy slowly began to blur as the color purple , once reserved solely for the attire of third rank officials or higher , began to diffuse amongst all ranks of officials who bore the color indiscriminately . Along with lower grade civil officials in the government protesting the rigid regulations for attire , the wealthy members of the merchant class also contributed to the disintegration of rules for ceremonial attire worn only by certain members of society . Yet there were still visible distinctions between civil officials and the class of rich merchants and business owners ; the officials were distinguished by their long robes reaching to the ground , while merchants often wore a blouse that came down below the waist with trousers . Pants and trousers were introduced to China during the Warring States in the 4th century BC , and were not exclusive to merchants ; every soldier wore trousers as part of his uniform , while trousers were also worn by the common people . Although most men were <unk> , soldiers , military officers , and professional boxing champions preferred side @-@ whiskers and goatee beards , as they were a sign of virility . 
