 Acton 's book is divided into chapters with brief , often single word titles such as " Fish " . In a marked departure from eighteenth century English cookery books like Hannah Glasse 's The Art of Cookery , these are written as connected wholes . The chapter on fish begins with an essay on how to choose fish for freshness ; there follows some advice on how to bake fish , and on the kinds of fat best used for frying fish . Suitable pans are illustrated . The recipes follow ; these too are written as stories rather than simply as instructions . Where appropriate , recipes end with a list of ingredients , as well as the cooking time , in marked change from eighteenth century practice . Recipes are grouped , in the case of fish by species , and they form a connected story . Acton adds comments where she sees fit , indicating anything from when the food is in season to where a recipe came from , and how much she likes it . For example , she begins her account of the John Dory with a recipe which is more of an introductory essay than a set of instructions , though given the simplicity of the recipe , it says all that a cook would need to know on the matter : 
