 The linen smock @-@ frocks worn by rural workers , especially shepherds and <unk> , in parts of England and Wales from the early eighteenth century featured fullness across the back , breast , and sleeves folded into " tubes " ( narrow unpressed pleats ) held in place and decorated by <unk> , a type of surface embroidery in a honeycomb pattern across the pleats that controls the fullness while allowing a degree of stretch . 
