 <unk> , in which thread is stitched through a foundation fabric , and surface embroidery , in which the majority of the thread sits on top of the fabric , exist side @-@ by @-@ side in the English tradition , coming in and out of fashion over the years . In the 19th century , the craze for Berlin wool work , a canvaswork style using brightly coloured wool , contrasts with art needlework , associated with the Arts and Crafts Movement , which attempted to resurrect the artistic and expressive styles of medieval surface embroidery under the influence of the Gothic Revival and the Pre @-@ Raphaelites . 
