 The first pattern book for embroidery published in England was <unk> & <unk> renewed & <unk> very popular for Goldsmiths & <unk> by Thomas Geminus ( 1545 ) . <unk> or <unk> refers to Moorish or arabesque designs of spirals , scrolls , and zigzags , an important part of the <unk> of Renaissance ornament in many media . Scrolling patterns of flowers and leaves filled with geometric filling stitches are characteristic of blackwork from the 1540s through 1590s , and similar patterns worked in coloured silks appear from the 1560s , outlined in <unk> and filled with detached buttonhole stitch . 
