 Dickson Wright also comments on the early signs in Modern Cookery of what she considers the increasing dullness of Victorian cookery . Although she finds Acton " in most respects an admirable cookery writer " , she observes that between the first and the third editions Acton has gone from using garlic sparingly to avoiding it entirely . She is equally scathing about Acton 's " Burlington Whimsey " which she calls " basically a dish of brawn " ; she argues that the Victorians were too fond of it , and that Acton 's recipe is " the epitome of dull food dressed up to look whimsical . " 
