 Bee Wilson argues that the greatness of the book comes from " Acton 's very British sensibility . She calls a spade a spade , noting that some of the coffee served on the newfangled railway lines was a ' commercial disgrace ' . " Wilson adds that Acton has both honesty and reticence : she does not " gush " when she really likes something , " but puts it in brackets , as if holding her emotions in . ' Lemon Dumplings ( Light and Good ) ' , for example . Or ' Mushrooms Au Beurre ( Delicious ) ' ... that makes her Eliza Acton ( The Best ) . " 
