 The first pattern book for embroidery published in England was Moryssche & Damaschin renewed & encreased very popular for Goldsmiths & Embroiderers by Thomas Geminus ( 1545 ) . Moryssche or Moresque refers to Moorish or arabesque designs of spirals , scrolls , and zigzags , an important part of the reportoire of Renaissance ornament in many media . Scrolling patterns of flowers and leaves filled with geometric filling stitches are characteristic of blackwork from the 1540s through 1590s , and similar patterns worked in coloured silks appear from the 1560s , outlined in backstitch and filled with detached buttonhole stitch . 
