Harry Ayres (mountaineer)
Horace Henry Ayres  (31 July 1912 – 16 July 1987), better known as Harry Herbert Ayres and with his surname sometimes spelled Ayers, was a well-known New Zealand mountaineer and guide.

Early life 
Ayres was born in Christchurch, New Zealand, on 31 July 1912 to Ellen Matthews and Henry Ayres. He left school at the age of 12 after his mother died. He then worked on some farms, railroads and roadways.

Mountaineering 
In 1931, Ayres was introduced to mountaineering by Frank Alack. After five years, Ayres became a guide at the Tongariro National Park. In 1937, he made his first ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook. He later became the chief ranger at the Mount Cook National Park Board. Ayres was a mentor to Edmund Hillary, who had proposed him to Eric Shipton as a member of the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.

He fought in WWII in the Pacific from 1942 to 1944 where he contracted tropical diseases that affected his health significantly. 

From 1945 to 1955 he made 9 ascents of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman including leading Edmund Hillary and Ruth Adams in 1948. 

In 1956, Ayres traveled to Antarctica with the New Zealand party of the Trans-Antarctic Expedition.   

In the 1981 New Year Honours, Ayres was appointed an Officer of the Order of the British Empire, for services to mountaineering.

Personal life 
He married Catherine May Guise in 1939. In 1948 they divorced and he married Jeanne Ette Cammock in 1949. They had three children. In 1987, Ayres went missing to be found drowned in Lyttelton Harbour / Whakaraupō from expected suicide.

References

1912 births
1987 deaths
New Zealand mountain climbers
New Zealand gardeners
20th-century New Zealand botanists
New Zealand Officers of the Order of the British Empire
Mountain guides
Edmund Hillary