She is the mother of all Mexicans, the savior and succor of the indigenous spirit, protectress of the poor, dark, ailing and humble. She is the Dark Madonna of Indian features, who appeared just after the invasion by the white-skinned Europeans. She is miraculous and comforting, the emotional support to a conquered nation, orphaned from their pantheon of gods and spirits of nature.
Today, across the country, the shrines to her are numberless. Her images smile behind glass in saloons, gleam on tin in the kitchen, hang in taxis, and are carved into cradle-boards. They are fashioned in plaster, marble, wood, stone, clay, cake, candy, cloth, tissue-paper, beads and embroidery. Her figure adorned the flag of Don Miguel Hidalgo, father of the movement for Independence. She was declared Empress of America by a Papal Bull in 1754. Pope Leo XII crowned her Queen of the Mexican people in 1895. The title Celestial Patron of Latin America was given to her in 1910. And in 1945, she was crowned queen of Wisdom and of the Americas. Named Patron Saint of the Americas by Pope John Paul II, she is a beloved manifestation of the Catholic faith.
Every city in Mexico has a church consecrated to her name. Near the place of her appearance, north of Mexico City, is the original Basilica of Guadalupe (completed in 1709 and holding, according to tradition, the original tilma (a rectangle of muslin worn as a cape) of Juan Diego) next to the huge modern church built in 1976. There is a shrine at the very place of her apparition, and a well, decorated in talavera tiles, holds the miraculous waters of the spring that gushed forth at her feet. At this place, and at all the churches with her name, thousands of the faithful gather on December 11th and 12th, to give tribute to her, to petition for a miracle, or to give thanks for one already received.
In Oaxaca, on the eve of the feast of the Virgen of Guadalupe, babies and toddlers are dressed in representation of the many Indian tribes of Mexico. The procession begins at La Catedral on the zócalo and fills the streets, accompanied by singing and punctuated by firecrackers. It ends at her church on the Llano Park, for the mass of thanksgiving for her protection and grace.
On the following day, the children are brought again. In the hot Mexican sun, blue-black hair gleams, deep facial shadows contrast with brilliant highlights on the copper skin of children. Colored ribbons in the babies’ hair and strands of glass beads glisten and shine. The children are patient, as they wait in the long line to pass through the church, to leave their baskets of roses or poinsettias, to light the candles and to pray. They sometimes fuss when their parents rearrange the tilmas or re-paint their smudged moustaches. But they seem to understand that this is an important affair, and quietly wait their turn to revere the Holy Mother.
Costumes of all kinds reflect the variety of Mexican traditions. As in other human clothing, the females have more choices in finery. The boys are usually dressed in white muslin, red belts and huaraches. The brims of their woven palm hats are turned up in the front, framing a paper image of the Virgin. This arrangement gives them an endearing, slightly comical look. The moustache drawn on with eyebrow pencil transforms the round-faced baby into Juan Diego. On the tilma the image of Guadalupe appears as she did on the cloth of Juan Diego, centuries ago. Some of the youngsters carry a costalito, equipped with a forehead strap and decorated with miniature articles like a petate and kitchen instruments, necessary for a long pilgrimage. They will bring offerings of flowers, the poinsettia of the season, or roses like the ones Guadalupe sent to the bishop, as proof of her apparition.
While most boys are in white, you will meet the occasional charro (Mexican cowboy) with his huge hat, flashy bandana, and silver coins down the sides of his pant-legs. But the little girls steal the show. From the tiniest baby to the most demure teenager, each one is delightful. The traditional costume is a puff-sleeved embroidered blouse, multicoloured rebozo and a gathered flowered skirt. They wear strands of brightly coloured beads and long braids (often made from dark yarn, ingeniously attached to their shorter hair) and carry baskets of flowers. But especially in Oaxaca, with its 16 official ethnic groups, the costumes are varied. You can see little Tehuanas, Yalaltecas, Mazatecas, a rebozo gracefully wrapping the head, wearing huipiles, both sumptuous and austere.
Of course, it’s not all serious. The Llano Park is taken over by secular pleasures as well — mechanical rides, marble-rolling for prizes, and balloons that manage to dodge the menacing darts, for that elusive plaster eagle or authentic image of Pokeman. Oh, and the food! Children delight in the flavoured ices, popsicles, cups of gelatines and cotton candy; and the smells of little fried gorditas Guadalupanas, and all the other antojitos of Oaxacan cuisine fill the air.
And then, the commemorative photograph. Not as common in years past, nowadays the ingenuity for photo-ops is delightful. They will pose the children on the traditional burro, dressed up with crepe paper and flowers with the image of the virgin up on top. If sitting on a burro is too distressing for the little one, there are peaceful grottoes, with the figure of Juan Diego kneeling before the Blessed Mother, that can serve as a background. The mujercitas demonstrate crushing corn on a metate (look up at the camera and smile, mi hija), or cooking the tortillas on the comal. (First let’s straighten up the bows, and braids to the front, please.)
Mexicans adore their children. They are their delights, each one a gift from heaven. On December 12th, Mexicans celebrate their spiritual indigenous roots by bringing them to the Virgin of Guadalupe. She sees all of the nation, rich and poor, exalted and humble, as her children, and holds them in her protective grace.
The Appearance of Guadalupe
The story goes like this.
In 1531, a scant ten years after the fall of the Aztec nation, a humble Indian named Juan Diego was walking over the hills just north of Mexico City (built on the razed Azctec capital of Tenochtitlan). Land there is dry and rocky, favoring only cactus and lizards under a blistering sun. He passed by the hill of Tepeyac, once the site of the temple to Tonantzín, the gentle goddess of earth and corn, whose name means “our mother.” The conquering Spaniards had destroyed this and most of the other sacred places of the indigenous people, forbidding them to pray to their protecting spirits. They were spiritual orphans then, not yet embracing, as foster-mother, the Catholic church. They had to hide small idols and talismans, to worship and pray in secret.
As he passed this once-revered place, Juan Diego stopped and stood still, disbelieving the heavenly fragrance and celestial music that surrounded the spot. Before him shone a radiance, like a glowing cloud surrounded by rainbows. Then the blessed Mother Mary emerged, robed in blue and gold and rose. She calmed his fears, calling him “little son,” and urging him to return to the city and request the bishop to build a shrine to her, on the very place of the fallen goddess.
Of course the bishop did not believe the peasant and sent him on his way. Ashamed that he had failed her bidding, he avoided the spot, passing the next day on the other side of the hill. But she was not to be denied. She found him and urged him once again. It was not until the third time she appeared to him, that she sent proof of this miracle. She told Juan Diego to pick the Castillian roses, impossible to exist in that climate, but growing in abundance on that place. He gathered them in his tilma, a rectangle of muslin worn as a cape. She told him not to put them down until he was in the presence of the church dignitary. When he did this, in the cathedral of Tlatelolco, they saw that the front of his tilma was emblazoned with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe and the miraculous blossoms lay at her feet.
The Dark Madonna was immediately embraced by the indigenous people, and other miracles quickly followed, in which floods and pestilence were overcome and the personal prayers and needs of her many believers were answered. The symbols of her miraculous presence are the Castillian roses found in the desert and Juan Diego’s tilma bearing her image.
Yeye ni mama wa Wamexico wote, mwokozi na msaidizi wa roho ya wenyeji, mlinzi wa maskini, giza, wagonjwa na wanyenyekevu. Madonna ya giza ya India, ambaye alionekana tu baada ya uvamizi wa Wazungu wenye ngozi nyeupe. Yeye ni wa ajabu na mwenye kufariji, msaada wa kihisia kwa taifa lililoshindwa, yatima kutoka kwa pantheon yao ya miungu na roho za asili. Leo, katika nchi nzima, kuna makaburi mengi sana ya kumtumikia. Picha zake huonekana nyuma ya vioo katika baa, huangaza kwenye bati katika jikoni, zinatundikwa katika teksi, na kuchongwa kwenye mabamba ya watoto. Wao ni fashioned katika plasta, marumaru, mbao, jiwe, udongo, keki, peremende, kitambaa, tishu-karatasi, shanga na embroidery. Mfano wake ulipamba bendera ya Don Miguel Hidalgo, baba wa harakati ya Uhuru. Alitangazwa kuwa Malkia wa Amerika na Bull ya Papa mnamo 1754. Papa Leo XII alimtawala kuwa Malkia wa Mexico mwaka 1895. "Jina la ""Mlinzi wa Mbinguni wa Amerika ya Kusini"" lilitolewa kwa mara ya kwanza mnamo 1910." Mwaka 1945 alitawazwa kuwa Malkia wa Hekima na wa Amerika. Aliteuliwa kuwa Mlinzi Mtakatifu wa Amerika na Papa John Paul II, na ni mwonekano mpendwa wa imani ya Kikatoliki. Kila jiji nchini Mexico lina kanisa lililowekwa wakfu kwa jina lake. Karibu na mahali pa kuonekana kwake, kaskazini mwa Mexico City, kuna Kanisa la awali la Guadalupe (iliyokamilishwa mnamo 1709 na inayochukua, kulingana na utamaduni, tilma ya awali (mstatili wa muslin uliovaliwa kama cape) ya Juan Diego) kando ya kanisa kubwa la kisasa lililojengwa mnamo 1976. Kuna hekalu mahali pa kuonekana kwake, na kisima, kilichopambwa kwa vigae vya talavera, kina maji ya ajabu ya chemchemi ambayo ilitoka chini ya miguu yake. Katika kanisa hili na katika makanisa yote yaliyoitwa kwa jina lake, maelfu ya waumini hukusanyika Desemba 11 na 12, kumheshimu, kuomba muujiza, au kumshukuru kwa ajili ya muujiza ambao tayari umepokea. Katika mji wa Oaxaca, siku ya sikukuu ya Bikira wa Guadalupe, watoto wadogo huvaa mavazi ya makabila mengi ya Wahindi wa Mexico. Msafara huo huanza katika La Catedral kwenye zócalo na kujaza barabara, ukiambatana na kuimba na kutikiswa na mioto ya moto. Mkutano huo unaendelea katika kanisa la Llano Park, ambapo watu wanashukuru kwa ulinzi na neema ya Mungu. Siku iliyofuata, watoto hao huletwa tena. Katika jua kali la Mexico, nywele za rangi ya bluu-nyeusi huangaza, vivuli vya uso wa kina kinachotofautiana na nyuso zenye kung'aa kwenye ngozi ya shaba ya watoto. Ribbons za rangi katika nywele za watoto na nyuzi za shanga za kioo huangaza na kung'aa. Watoto wana subira, wanangoja katika foleni ndefu kupita kupitia kanisa, kuacha vikapu vyao vya roses au poinsettias, kuwasha mishumaa na kuomba. Nyakati nyingine wao hukasirika wazazi wao wanapopanga tena tilma zao au kupaka rangi nywele zao zilizotiwa madoa. Lakini wanaonekana kuelewa kwamba hii ni jambo muhimu, na kwa utulivu kusubiri zamu yao ya kuheshimu Mama Mtakatifu. Mavazi ya aina zote huonyesha utamaduni mbalimbali wa Mexico. Kama ilivyo na mavazi mengine ya kibinadamu, wanawake wana chaguo zaidi katika mavazi maridadi. Kwa kawaida wavulana hao huvaa mavazi meupe ya muslin, mikanda nyekundu, na huaraches. Vipande vya kofia zao zilizofunikwa kwa mitende vimeinuliwa mbele, vikifanyiza picha ya Bikira iliyochorwa kwenye karatasi. Mpangilio huo huwafanya waonekane wenye kupendeza na wenye kuchekesha kidogo. Mvua iliyochorwa kwa kalamu ya vipaji ya macho humgeuza mtoto mwenye uso wa mviringo kuwa Juan Diego. Kwenye tilma picha ya Guadalupe inaonekana kama alivyofanya kwenye kitambaa cha Juan Diego, karne nyingi zilizopita. Baadhi ya vijana hao hubeba kitambaa cha kitani, kilicho na kamba ya paji la uso na kupambwa kwa vitu vidogo kama vile kitambaa cha kuoka na vifaa vya jikoni, vinavyohitajika kwa ajili ya safari ndefu ya kidini. "Wanaweza kuleta zawadi za maua, maua ya majira ya joto, au maua ya waridi kama yale ambayo Guadalupe alimtumia askofu, kama uthibitisho wa kuonekana kwake.""" Ingawa wavulana wengi huvaa mavazi meupe, mara kwa mara utakutana na charro (mwindaji wa ng'ombe wa Mexico) akiwa na kofia yake kubwa, bandana yenye kuvutia, na sarafu za fedha kwenye pande za miguu yake ya suruali. Lakini wasichana wadogo huiba maonyesho. Kutoka mtoto mdogo zaidi hadi kijana mwenye adabu zaidi, kila mmoja ni mwenye kupendeza. Mavazi ya jadi ni blouse ya kushona yenye mikono ya puff, rebozo yenye rangi nyingi na suruali ya maua iliyokusanywa. Wao huvaa nyuzi za shanga zenye rangi nyangavu na nyuzi ndefu (zilizotengenezwa kwa nyuzi nyeusi, zilizofungwa kwa ustadi kwenye nywele zao fupi) na kubeba vikapu vya maua. Lakini hasa katika Oaxaca, na makundi yake 16 rasmi ya kikabila, mavazi ni tofauti. Unaweza kuona Tehuanas wadogo, Yalatecas, Mazatecas, rebozo akifunga kichwa kwa uzuri, akiwa amevaa huipiles, zote mbili zenye kupendeza na zenye ukali. Bila shaka, si jambo zito. Llano Park ni kuchukuliwa juu na raha ya kidunia kama vizuri <unk> safari ya mitambo, marble-rolling kwa tuzo, na puto kwamba kusimamia dodge darts kutisha, kwa ajili ya kwamba elusive plaster tai au picha halisi ya Pokeman. Oh, na chakula! Watoto hufurahia ladha ya barafu, popsicles, vikombe vya gelatini na sukari ya pamba; na harufu ya gorditas kidogo iliyochomwa ya Guadalupanas, na antojitos nyingine zote za vyakula vya Oaxaca hujaza hewa. Na kisha, picha ya ukumbusho. Si jambo la kawaida kama ilivyokuwa miaka iliyopita, lakini leo ustadi wa kupiga picha ni wenye kupendeza. Watoto hao watapigwa picha kwenye punda wa kitamaduni, wakiwa wamevalia karatasi ya crepe na maua na picha ya bikira juu. Ikiwa kukaa juu ya punda ni shida sana kwa mtoto mdogo, kuna mapango ya amani, na takwimu ya Juan Diego akiinama mbele ya Mama Mtakatifu, ambayo inaweza kutumika kama mandhari. Mujercitas huonyesha kukata mahindi kwenye metate (tazama kamera na tabasamu, mi hija), au kupika tortillas kwenye comal. (Kwanza hebu kurudisha juu ya mapigo, na braids kwa mbele, tafadhali.) Wamexico wanawapenda sana watoto wao. Wao ni furaha yao, kila mmoja ni zawadi kutoka mbinguni. Katika siku ya 12 Desemba, Wamexico huadhimisha mizizi yao ya kiroho kwa kuileta kwa Bikira wa Guadalupe. Anaona taifa lote, tajiri na maskini, wenye heshima na wanyenyekevu, kama watoto wake, na anawaweka katika neema yake ya ulinzi. Kuonekana kwa Guadalupe Hadithi inaendelea kama hii. Mwaka 1531, miaka kumi tu baada ya kuanguka kwa taifa la Aztec, Mhindi mmoja mnyenyekevu aliyeitwa Juan Diego alikuwa akitembea juu ya vilima kaskazini mwa Mexico City (iliyojengwa juu ya mji mkuu wa Aztec wa Tenochtitlan uliokuwa umeharibiwa). Nchi hiyo ni kavu na yenye miamba, na ina miti ya cactus na mbawakawa tu chini ya jua kali. "Kama ilivyoelezwa hapo juu, kilima cha Tepeyac, mahali ambapo hekalu la Tonantzin, mungu wa ardhi na mahindi, lilijengwa, lilikuwa na jina la ""mama yetu,"" ambalo linamaanisha ""mama yetu,"" na ambalo lilikuwa na jina la ""mama"" kwa sababu ya kuharibiwa kwa sehemu hiyo na sehemu nyingine za utakatifu za wenyeji wa eneo hilo." Wakati huo walikuwa yatima wa kiroho, wakiwa hawajaikubali Kanisa Katoliki kuwa mama yao wa kambo. Walilazimika kuficha sanamu ndogo-ndogo na talismani, kuabudu na kusali kwa siri. Alipokuwa akipita mahali hapo pa heshima, Juan Diego alisimama na kusimama, bila kuamini harufu ya mbinguni na muziki wa mbinguni uliozunguka mahali hapo. Mbele yake kulikuwa na mwangaza, kama wingu lenye kung'aa lililozungukwa na upinde wa mvua. Kisha Mama Maria aliyebarikiwa akajitokeza, akiwa amevaa mavazi ya bluu na dhahabu na waridi. "Alimshinda na kumwita ""mwana mdogo"" na kumhimiza arudi mjini na kumwomba askofu amjengee hekalu mahali pa mungu huyo aliyeanguka." Bila shaka askofu hakumwamini mkulima huyo na kumruhusu aende zake. Akiwa na aibu kwa sababu ya kukataa ombi lake, aliepuka mahali hapo, akipita siku iliyofuata upande ule mwingine wa kilima. Lakini hakupaswa kukataliwa. Alimkuta na kumhimiza tena. Haikuwa mpaka mara ya tatu yeye alionekana kwake, kwamba yeye alimtumia uthibitisho wa muujiza huu. Juan Diego alilazimika kukusanya maua ya waridi ya Castile, ambayo hayakuweza kupatikana katika hali hiyo ya hewa, lakini yaliongezeka sana katika eneo hilo. Aliwakusanya katika tilma yake, mstatili wa muslin uliovaliwa kama kanzu. Alimwambia asiweke chini mpaka awe mbele ya mtu mashuhuri wa kanisa. Alipofanya hivyo, katika kanisa kuu la Tlatelolco, waliona kwamba mbele ya tilma yake ilikuwa imepambwa na picha ya Bikira wa Guadalupe na maua ya miujiza yalikuwa chini ya miguu yake. Madonna ya Giza ilikubaliwa mara moja na wenyeji, na miujiza mingine ilifuata haraka, ambapo mafuriko na tauni zilishindwa na sala za kibinafsi na mahitaji ya waumini wake wengi yalijibiwa. Ishara za uwepo wake wa kimuujiza ni maua ya waridi ya Castilian yaliyopatikana jangwani na tilma ya Juan Diego yenye picha yake.