Nitrogen is easily one of the most important nutrients for the cannabis plant. It is directly responsible for producing chlorophyll and amino acids, and it’s also vital to the process of photosynthesis. Plant tissue is also made up largely of nitrogen, meaning that growth would halt fast in the event of a deficiency.
Signs of a Nitrogen Deficiency in Marijuana: What does it look like?
A lack of nitrogen is one of the most common nutrient deficiencies found in marijuana. It starts initially in the lower leaves which turn to a pale green color. The leaves will then turn yellow and start to die as the remaining nitrogen in the plant travels to assist the new growth. This obviously makes nitrogen very mobile. The mark of the deficiency will progress up the plant and only the new growth at the top will appear to be green. The lowest leaves will start to turn yellow and wilt. The process of the leaf’s death starts at the tips and goes inward.
You may also notice that the leaves are smaller, growth reduces, and the marijuana plants do not flourish. Stems and petioles gain a slight red or purple hue.
An excess of nitrogen produces a fuller, darker green expansion, but this is more vulnerable to pests and diseases. Also, the stalks start to lose flexibility and turn brittle.
How do you Fix a Marijuana Nitrogen Deficiency ?
To fix a nitrogen deficiency, it’s best to use water-soluble nitrogen to get the element directly to the roots. Other types of nitrogen (like urea) are insoluble and require breaking down before they can be used properly. Once fertilization has begun, any nitrogen-deficient plant will take in as much nitrogen as it can and the plant will regain its healthy Kelly green. Plants will recover in around 7 days, but the most-damaged leaves likely won’t recover.
Using any fertilizer that has a high “N” level in the N-P-K ratio will help the plant make a recovery. Many hydroponic vegetative formulas are water-soluble making them ideal choices for a nitrogen deficiency.
Other items that might do the trick include:
- Calcium nitrate (CaNO3) as a foliar fertilizer
- Fish emulsion
- Bat or seabird guano
- Cottonseed meals
- Feather meal
- Fish meal
It should also be noted that there is no point at which the marijuana plant should be without nitrogen at any point during its growth cycle. Of course, nitrogen is most important during the vegetative stage to encourage growth. Many people might suggest that you eliminate nitrogen entirely during the flowering stage, but that is not the case. While you should not have as much nitrogen during the flowering stage, you should still maintain enough nitrogen for the plant to manufacture vital amino acids.
Bloom fertilizers tend to have more phosphorus and potassium than they do nitrogen, but it’s common for plants to exhibit a nitrogen deficiency during the mid- to late-flowering period. This can cause plants to lose leaves and reduce yield as the nitrogen exits the old growth for new growth.
You should gradually switch over to bloom fertilizers to ensure that you don’t run into a nitrogen deficiency during flowering. Use the following fertilizer example for how to carry this out properly:
- First Week of Flowering: 1 part bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
- Second Week of Flowering: 2 parts bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
- Third Week of Flowering: 3 parts bloom fertilizer and 1 part vegetative fertilizer
- Fourth Week and Beyond: All bloom fertilizer
This essentially allows the marijuana plants to store enough nitrogen until the end of the flowering period.
Nitrojeni ni mojawapo ya virutubisho muhimu zaidi kwa mmea wa bangi. Ni moja kwa moja kuwajibika kwa ajili ya kuzalisha chlorophyll na asidi amino, na pia ni muhimu kwa mchakato wa photosynthesis. Kwa kuwa nyuzinyuzi za mimea pia hufanyizwa hasa kwa nitrojeni, ukuzi wa mimea unasimama haraka ikiwa kuna upungufu wa nitrojeni. Ishara za Upungufu wa Nitrojeni Katika Marijuana: Inaonekanaje? Ukosefu wa nitrojeni ni mojawapo ya upungufu wa virutubisho unaopatikana kwa kawaida katika bangi. Mwanzoni huanza katika majani ya chini ambayo hubadilika kuwa rangi ya kijani kibichi. Kisha majani huwa na rangi ya manjano na kuanza kufa huku nitrojeni iliyobaki katika mmea ikisafiri ili kusaidia ukuzi mpya. Hii ni wazi inafanya nitrojeni sana mobile. Alama ya upungufu huo itaendelea kupanda kwenye mmea na ukuzi mpya tu ulio juu utaonekana kuwa wa kijani kibichi. Majani ya chini zaidi yataanza kuwa manjano na kufifia. Utaratibu wa kifo cha jani huanza kwenye ncha na kwenda ndani. Pia, unaweza kuona kwamba majani yanazidi kuwa madogo, ukuzi unazidi kupungua, na mimea ya bangi haifanyi kazi vizuri. Vipande na vichaka huanza kuwa na rangi nyekundu au ya zambarau. Nitrojeni nyingi zaidi hutokeza rangi ya kijani-kibichi yenye rangi nyangavu zaidi, lakini hiyo huathiriwa zaidi na wadudu na magonjwa. Pia, shina huanza kupoteza kubadilika-badilika na kuwa dhaifu. Jinsi ya kurekebisha upungufu wa nitrojeni ya bangi Ili kurekebisha upungufu wa nitrojeni, ni bora kutumia nitrojeni inayoweza kuyeyuka katika maji ili kupata kipengele hicho moja kwa moja kwenye mizizi. Aina nyingine za nitrojeni (kama vile urea) haziwezi kuyeyuka na zinahitaji kuvunjwa kabla ya kutumiwa ifaavyo. Baada ya mbolea kuanza, mmea wowote unaopungukiwa na nitrojeni utachukua nitrojeni nyingi iwezekanavyo na mmea utapata tena kijani kibichi cha Kelly. Mimea itapona katika siku saba, lakini majani yaliyoharibiwa zaidi hayataweza kupona. Kutumia mbolea yoyote ambayo ina kiwango cha juu cha <unk>N<unk> katika uwiano wa N-P-K itasaidia mmea kupona. Vipimo vingi vya mimea ya hydroponic vinaweza kuyeyuka katika maji na hivyo ni chaguo bora kwa upungufu wa nitrojeni. Vifaa vingine vinavyoweza kufanya ujanja ni pamoja na: - Calcium nitrate (CaNO3) kama mbolea ya majani - Emulsion ya samaki - Guano ya popo au ndege wa baharini - Chakula cha mbegu za pamba - Chakula cha manyoya - Chakula cha samaki - Inapaswa pia kutajwa kuwa hakuna wakati ambapo mmea wa bangi unapaswa kuwa bila nitrojeni wakati wowote wa mzunguko wake wa ukuaji. Bila shaka, nitrojeni ni muhimu zaidi wakati wa hatua ya mimea ili kuchochea ukuzi. Watu wengi huenda wakapendekeza kwamba uondole nitrojeni kabisa wakati wa maua, lakini sivyo ilivyo. Ingawa haipaswi kuwa na nitrojeni nyingi wakati wa maua, bado unapaswa kudumisha nitrojeni ya kutosha kwa mmea kutengeneza asidi za amino muhimu. Mbolea za maua huwa na fosforasi na potasiamu zaidi kuliko nitrojeni, lakini ni kawaida kwa mimea kuonyesha upungufu wa nitrojeni wakati wa katikati hadi mwisho wa kipindi cha maua. Hii inaweza kusababisha mimea kupoteza majani na kupunguza mavuno kama nitrojeni inatokana na ukuaji wa zamani kwa ukuaji mpya. Unapaswa hatua kwa hatua kubadili kwa mbolea ya maua ili kuhakikisha kwamba huwezi kukimbia katika upungufu wa nitrojeni wakati wa maua. Kwa mfano, kwa mfano, kwa wiki ya kwanza ya maua, sehemu ya 1 ya mbolea ya maua na sehemu ya 1 ya mbolea ya mimea, sehemu ya 3 ya mbolea ya maua na sehemu ya 1 ya mbolea ya mimea, na sehemu ya 4 ya mbolea ya mimea, mbolea ya maua na sehemu ya mimea.