Does your dog like cold weather? To many dogs, Georgia winter conditions are far more hospitable than are the supposed “dog days” of summer. Yet, many dogs are poorly suited for the drop in outdoor temperatures that accompany the winter season. Such dogs may experience hypothermia, frostbite, cracked pads, and stress when left outdoors for an extended period.
Hypothermia occurs when a dog’s core body temperature drops below that required for normal metabolic, organ, and body functions. In simple terms, hypothermic internal temperature dysregulation transpires when a dog’s body loses heat faster than it can manufacture heat. Cold ambient temperatures facilitate the onset of potentially lethal hypothermia, especially when there are high winds, a dog becomes wet, a dog is inactive, or a dog is old, young, diseased, or otherwise unhealthy. Symptoms initially include cold skin, shivering (in an attempt to manufacture heat), bright red skin, pale skin (from vasoconstriction), and tachycardia. As the hypothermic condition progresses, confusion, dystaxia, severe shivering, lethargy, paleness, peripheral cyanosis, and/or cold-induced diuresis may ensue. In severe or later stages, as organ systems begin to fail, the symptoms become bradycardia, bradypnea, ataxia, stupor, cyanosis, and finally death.
Core heat is primarily generated in muscle tissue, including the heart, and in the liver. Body heat is principally lost through the skin and lungs. Therefore, a healthy, physically active dog will safely withstand cold temperatures better than an unhealthy or sedentary dog. Similarly, a double-coated dog will withstand cold temperatures better than a short-coated dog. Still, extremely cold temperatures or a long period outdoors in mildly cold temperatures, especially when combined with wind or rain, may pose a risk to any dog.
If you observe symptoms of hypothermia, you need to immediately commence a treatment plan of external and internal warming. Move your dog to a warm indoor environment. If an indoor environment is not readily available, seek shelter outdoors in an area away from the wind and rain. If your dog is wet, dry your dog thoroughly with a clean towel. Wrap your dog in a thick, dry blanket. Consider using an electric heating blanket and laying your dog atop a hot water bottle wrapped inside a towel (to prevent inadvertent burning). If you do not have an electric blanket, then warm a second blanket in a clothes dryer. In addition, if your dog is alert and able to properly swallow, encourage him/her to drink warm or tepid water supplemented with honey or several teaspoons of cane sugar, especially if you suspect dehydration from cold-induced diuresis. The purpose of the honey or sugar is to replenish carbohydrate levels, as extended shivering may deplete stored glycogen, whereby your dog becomes hypoglycemic.
If you acted promptly, you should quickly stabilize your dog. You can tell if your dog is stabilized by checking your dog’s temperature with a thermometer. Dog thermometers are inexpensive and come in various types, including ear, infrared, no contact, and rectal. The normal canine body temperature is between 101 and 102.5 degrees.
However, if symptoms progressed to a severe state, especially if the dog’s rectal temperature is below 95 degrees, after you commence emergency dewarming, as a precautionary measure, transport your dog to a nearby veterinary clinic. A veterinarian may treat your dog for shock, add electrolytes, or include extracorporeal membrane oxygenation. Lastly, if you were very late in beginning emergency treatment and your dog has no pulse or heart rate, immediately commence canine CPR while someone helps you to transport your dog to a veterinary clinic. Please note that cold temperatures may allow survival even after extended periods of hypoxia. Therefore, if your dog does not immediately respond to CPR, do not give up. Continue emergency warming and CPR while transporting your dog to a veterinarian. Your veterinarian may include epinephrine and defibrillation to return your dog’s heart and respiration to a normal level.
Frostbite is localized damage to skin and adjoining tissue that arises from freezing. Frostbite is most likely to occur in body regions that are farthest from the heart and that are most exposed to the elements. In a dog, frostbite is most frequently observed in the tail, tips of the ears, foot pads, and scrotum.
When a dog’s body begins losing heat due to cold ambient temperatures, wind, or moisture, vasoconstriction occurs that concentrates blood in the brain and viscera. Vasoconstriction helps maintain a dog’s core temperature, but reduces the amount of warm blood available to the outer layers of skin. Consequently, freezing of tissue is more likely to occur.
Frostbite has several levels. The first level of seriousness is called frostnip, which is characterized by coolness and loss of circulation in body tissues, but without concomitant tissue damage. The symptoms of frostnip include itching and pain, along with pale white or blue discoloration. Frostnip only affects the outer layers of skin. Due to desquamation, permanent skin damage is unlikely to occur. However, associated peripheral nerve damage may permanently reduce your dog’s ability to detect changes in temperature.
The second level of seriousness involves freezing and hardening of the outer layers of skin. The pain is greater than with frostnip. The skin may turn dark red or black. Blisters and chilblains may occur either immediately or several days later. The skin will likely heal after weeks or months of treatment. However, permanent peripheral nerve damage in the area is highly likely.
The third level of seriousness is frostbite, where adjoining tissue below the skin also freezes. The area will be temporarily paralyzed and become very hard to the touch. The skin may turn black, either immediately or after several days.
The fourth level of seriousness is deep frostbite, where muscles, tendons, blood vessels, and nerves all freeze. The area becomes very hard and local paralysis ensues. The skin will immediately turn black or will turn black after several days. Gangrene may develop, which may result in amputation.
If you observe symptoms of frostnip or frostbite, remove your dog from the cold immediately and commence a warming process similar to that for hypothermia, especially since hypothermia and frostbite are frequently comorbid conditions. However, avoid movement of the frostbitten area, either by the dog or by you during the treatment process, and avoid any action that may inadvertently result in refreezing of the tissue, which will increase the amount of damage. If possible, splint or wrap the localized area to prevent movement. However, avoid any pressure contact, such as rubbing or massaging. Warm your dog with blankets, electric blankets, and/or a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel. To encourage peripheral warming and peripheral circulation, immerse the affected area in a warm bath. Alternatively, wrap the affected area in a damp washcloth soaked in warm water. Once you commence emergency treatment, while you continue to attend to your dog in the back seat, have someone drive you to a local veterinarian.
Your veterinarian will construct a short term and long term treatment plan that will likely include debridement and that may include amputation (in severe cases). Until the area totally heels, your dog may need to wear an Elizabethan collar to prevent chewing and self-mutilation that may arise from chronic pain. In cases of frostnip, healing may occur in a few days. In cases of frostbite or deep frostbite, healing may require several weeks or months. Moreover, total heeling will not occur if gangrene arises. Unfortunately, severe frostbite often leads to permanent localized complications, including changes in temperature sensation, paresthesia, osteoporosis, arthritis, and cancer.
Cracked pads most frequently occur when a dog is exercised on cold, abrasive surfaces, such as concrete; when snow or ice accumulate between the pads; from contact with sharp objects, such as metal, stones, burs, or thorns; or from complications from abrasive indoor chemicals or outdoor road salt. Symptoms include frequent licking of the pad area, dry pads, and bleeding. Treatment includes thoroughly cleaning the pad with antibacterial soap and water, applying a topical antibiotic, applying a moisturizing ointment, such as Bag Balm (but only until the wound heals- pads optimally should be hard and tough, not soft), taping a sock or gauze around the affected paw, or applying a purchased bootie to the paw. Cracked pads will usually heal in anywhere from several days to two weeks. In the interim, have your dog wear an Elizabethan collar, so that he does not chew the affected area. In addition, to avoid compensation injuries that may occur due to gait adjustments that arise from the pain, limit your dog’s activity until the injury heals or at least until he appears pain free.
However, if the crack is deep or bleeds profusely, you should visit your veterinarian. Your vet may need to anesthetize your dog to properly clean a deep wound and may need to cauterize excessive bleeding. In addition, your vet may elect to prescribe antibiotics.
Stress may occur when a dog is left outdoors in the cold for extended periods. Shivering, fear, and confusion that may arise from a dog left outside in the winter without shelter may cause associated psychological stress. In turn, general physical psychological stress may cause, anxiety, timidness, depression, irritability, aloofness, clinginess, anorexia, and other behavioral changes. Similarly, the physical stress that occurs from the cold may cause diarrhea, anorexia, weight loss, dehydration, and hypoglycemia. The best treatments for stress are prevention and environmental change, so that the stress does not occur in the first place.
III. Risk Factors
As implied in the opening, many dogs love cold weather. Nevertheless, certain profiles of dogs are more at risk when exposed to cold winter weather. In addition there are a number of compounding environmental risks.
Furthermore, be aware that all dogs are potentially at risk. Even Nordic breeds, such as Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes, can suffer from hypothermia, frostbite, cracked pads, or stress if they are left outdoors for an extended period during cold winter weather, especially if one does not evaluate pertinent risk factors and take proper precautions. Thus, no dog is immune to risk, but the following factors increase the risk.
Age– Puppies and senior dogs are more at risk than are young adult or middle-aged dogs, since they have a less effective ability to thermoregulate.
Small breeds and breeds with short legs– Dogs that are lower to the ground experience more conductive heat loss than do dogs with longer legs.
Dogs with short coats– Double-coated dogs have an insulating undercoat underneath their coarser outer coat. However, short-coated dog breeds that do not have undercoats will suffer more radiant heat loss when exposed to cold temperatures. Moreover, they will suffer more convective heat loss during windy conditions.
Very thin dogs– Thin dogs will have a greater amount of body surface area exposed to the elements as a proportion of their overall weight. Therefore, they will suffer a greater amount of radiant heat loss.
Overweight dogs– Overweight dogs have less muscle as a proportion of their overall body weight. Since muscular activity, including shivering, manufactures heat that maintains the core temperature, an overweight dog is less likely to efficiently produce heat. In addition, the hearts of overweight dogs must work harder to pump blood throughout the body, which creates less efficiency when heart activity is needed to maintain core body temperature. Lastly, overweight dogs are more likely to be sedentary.
Sedentary dogs– A dog in motion is better able to maintain its core temperature than is a sedentary dog.
Health– Certain disease conditions raise the probability of a dog developing hypothermia. Heart disease, circulatory disorders, diabetes, adrenal disorders, and hypothyroidism may interfere with thermoregulation and predispose a dog to develop hypothermia. Similarly orthopedic disorders, including arthritis, may prompt a dog to become less active, which in turn reduces the dog’s cold tolerance. Injury may also pose a dog to greater risk.
Underfed dogs– Dogs that are underfed will have less glycogen storage and are more likely to become hypoglycemic and hypothermic.
Dehydrated dogs– Dehydrated dogs become hypotensive and are less able to thermoregulate.
Wet dogs– Dogs in the rain and dogs that swim in cold weather are significantly more at risk for hypothermia. Water disturbs the insulating properties of the undercoat, which makes the dog more prone to radiant heat loss and convective heat loss. In addition, water acts as a conductor that magnifies conductive and radiant heat loss.
Dogs that do not have protection from the wind or rain– Wind magnifies convective heat loss by disturbing insulating air pockets maintained within the undercoat. Rain acts as a conductor for heat loss. Therefore, a dog exposed to the elements is at greater risk than is a dog that has access to outdoor shelter that provides a wind and rain barrier.
Lack of acclimation– Dogs can physically and psychologically acclimate to cold weather. Consequently, a dog that is usually an indoor dog is at greater risk.
Weather conditions– Temperatures below 45º F, windy conditions that bring the wind-chill factor below 45º, and rain increase the risk of hypothermia.
Time outdoors– The amount of time the dog spends outdoors without proper shelter will increase the probability of the dog developing hypothermia, especially when considering the other risk factors mentioned above.
IV. Preventive Strategies
Nevertheless, by taking proper precautions owners and dogs can safely enjoy the cold winter months. Below are a number of preventive strategies.
Bring your dog indoors during the day and definitely during the night– Many people still prefer the outdated concept of the outdoor dog. In addition,, many people would consider bringing their dogs indoors, but are hesitant due to housebreaking, chewing, or allergy problems. First, for those believing in the outdoor dog, CPT’s response is that dogs are pack animals that wish to congregate with their pack members. Thus, unless you wish to join your dog outdoors, keeping your dog alone outdoors is not only physically inhumane, it is also psychologically inhumane. Second, for those concerned about housebreaking and chewing, almost all dogs can learn proper household manners as long as you implement proper prophylactic, training, and behavior modification methods. If you are uncertain how to housebreak or train your dog, we urge you to contact a CPT trainer or behaviorist. You will be surprised how easy it is to train your dog to become an enjoyable household companion. Third, if you are concerned about family allergies, then bathing your dog more frequently with oatmeal shampoo, brushing him frequently, and supplementing his diet with omega 3 and 6 fatty acids should reduce the amount of dander that he sheds in the house. In addition, frequent vacuuming with a quality vacuum that has a HEPA filter should enable you and your dog to congregate together indoors without a lot of sneezing.
Provide outdoor shelter– If you need to leave your dog outdoors for extended periods during the winter months, consider purchasing a dog house or Dogloo® that provides cover from the rain and wind. At the least, provide him a covered area, such as underneath a deck that also has vegetation or other features that provide protection from the wind.
Provide ample water– To prevent dehydration, make sure your dog has ample fresh water indoors and outdoors. To prevent outdoor water from freezing, use a ceramic or plastic bowl and raise the bowl off the ground.
Purchase a sweater and raincoat– Especially if your dog is short coated, short statured, or short-legged, consider purchasing a sweater for your dog for use during cold and windy weather and a raincoat during rainy weather.
Purchase booties– Booties are very useful to prevent cracked pads and to extend the amount of time a dog can safely remain outdoors. The booties will reduce conductive heat loss from the foot pads. Booties are definitely pertinent if you wish to exercise your dog long distances in cold weather or if there is snow or ice on the ground.
Feed more (or less)– Your dog will have a higher resting metabolic rate if he is outdoors frequently during the winter. Therefore, to maintain glycogen storage, the ability to thermoregulate, and proper body weight, you should increase your dog’s rations during the winter months. On the other hand, if you and your dog will spend more time indoors during the winter and you will exercise your dog less, whereby he will be more sedentary, then consider reducing the quantity of his food rations.
Do not swim your dog– Swimming during cold weather dramatically raises the likelihood of hypothermia and frostbite.
Avoid leaving your dog in a cold car– The danger of hot cars is better known, but cold cars are also potentially dangerous. Cold cars can become like refrigerators. Moreover, your dog will likely remain sedentary when left alone in the car.
Keep your dog healthy– A dog that is the proper weight and that is healthy will be able to safely and enjoyably withstand a greater amount of time outdoors during the winter.
Acclimate your dog– If you wish to go winter camping or on a long hike, first acclimate your dog with shorter outdoor excursions.
Consider the weather– Evaluate the temperature, wind, and humidity before leaving your dog outside for long periods or undertaking a camping trip, long hike, or long run. In addition, consider whether there is snow, ice, or moisture on the ground.
Lastly, for cat owners who have outdoor cats many of the same rules apply. Yet, there is one additional rule for keeping cats safe- check your car engine and underneath your car before leaving your garage or carport. Cats often like laying alongside car engines or underneath cars. To avoid inadvertently injuring your cat from the fan blade or the tires, please check your car before departing.
The winter months present the risk of hypothermia if a dog is left outdoors for an extended period. Certain breed profiles, ages, health conditions, and behavior and specific environmental conditions increase the danger of a dog developing hypothermia, frostbite, cracked pads, physical stress, or psychological stress as a result of exposure to cold winter weather. Nevertheless, there are a number of preventive strategies that can make the wintertime both enjoyable and safe. The number one consideration is bringing your dog indoors. Dogs are pack animals that prefer the indoor company of their human pack members. If you are hesitant to bring your dog indoors due to a concern about damage from housebreaking or chewing, then a consultation with a CPT trainer/behaviorist should enable your dog to become a responsible household companion. Similarly, if you are concerned about human health from dog dander, there are grooming and diet strategies that should enable your dog to remain indoors without sacrificing human health and comfort.
 Several sources categorize mild hypothermia as a rectal temperature between 90 – 99º F, moderate hypothermia as a rectal temperature between 82 – 90º F, and severe hypothermia as a rectal temperature below 82º. Nevertheless, to better provide for the safety of your dog, CPT recommends visiting a veterinarian if you observe severe physical symptoms and a rectal temperature of below 95º.
Je, mbwa wako anapenda hali ya hewa baridi? Kwa mbwa wengi, hali za majira ya baridi kali za Georgia ni zenye ukaribishaji-wageni zaidi kuliko zile zinazodhaniwa kuwa "siku za mbwa" za kiangazi. Hata hivyo, mbwa wengi hawawezi kukabiliana na kupungua kwa halijoto ya nje kunakofuata majira ya baridi kali. Mbwa hao wanaweza kupatwa na hali ya kupungua kwa joto, kuungua kwa joto kwa sababu ya baridi kali, kupasuka kwa vifuniko vyao, na mkazo wanapobaki nje kwa muda mrefu. Hypothermia hutokea wakati joto la mwili wa mbwa linaposhuka chini ya kile kinachohitajika kwa kazi za kawaida za kimetaboliki, viungo, na mwili. Kwa maneno sahili, hypothermic disregulation ya joto la ndani hutokea wakati mwili wa mbwa hupoteza joto haraka kuliko inaweza kutengeneza joto. Joto la joto la mazingira huwezesha mwanzo wa hypothermia ya uwezekano wa kifo, hasa wakati kuna upepo mkali, mbwa huwa mvua, mbwa ni hai, au mbwa ni mzee, kijana, mgonjwa, au vinginevyo unhealthy. Dalili za kwanza ni ngozi baridi, kutetemeka (kwa kujaribu kutengeneza joto), ngozi nyekundu, ngozi nyeupe (kutokana na kupunguzwa kwa mishipa ya damu), na tachycardia. Kadiri hali ya hypothermic inavyoendelea, kuchanganyikiwa, dystaxia, kutetemeka kali, usingizi, upofu, cyanosis ya pande zote, na / au diuresis inayosababishwa na baridi inaweza kutokea. Katika hatua kali au za baadaye, wakati mifumo ya viungo inapoanza kushindwa, dalili huwa bradycardia, bradypnea, ataxia, stupor, cyanosis, na hatimaye kifo. Joto la msingi hutokezwa hasa katika tishu za misuli, kutia ndani moyo, na katika ini. Joto la mwili hupotezwa hasa kupitia ngozi na mapafu. Kwa hiyo, mbwa mwenye afya nzuri na mwenye shughuli nyingi atavumilia baridi kali kwa usalama kuliko mbwa asiye na afya nzuri au asiyefanya kazi kwa bidii. Vivyo hivyo, mbwa mwenye manyoya mawili atavumilia joto kali zaidi kuliko mbwa mwenye manyoya mafupi. Hata hivyo, hali ya hewa ya baridi kali au kukaa nje kwa muda mrefu katika hali ya hewa ya baridi kali, hasa inapohusishwa na upepo au mvua, inaweza kuwa hatari kwa mbwa yeyote. Ikiwa una dalili za hypothermia, unapaswa kuanza matibabu ya joto la nje na la ndani. Mhamisha mbwa wako kwenye mazingira ya ndani yenye joto. Ikiwa mazingira ya ndani ya nyumba hayapatikani kwa urahisi, tafuta kimbilio nje katika eneo lililo mbali na upepo na mvua. Ikiwa mbwa wako amevaa nguo, basi muume kwa kitambaa safi. Weka kitambaa kirefu na kavu juu ya mbwa wako. Kwa mfano, unaweza kutumia blanketi ya umeme na kuweka mbwa wako juu ya chupa ya maji moto iliyofungwa ndani ya kitambaa (ili kuzuia kuchoma bila kukusudia). Ikiwa huna blanketi ya umeme, basi joto blanketi ya pili katika kifaa cha kukausha nguo. Kwa kuongezea, ikiwa mbwa wako yuko macho na anaweza kumeza vizuri, himiza kunywa maji ya joto au ya joto na asali au vijiko kadhaa vya sukari ya miwa, haswa ikiwa unashuku upungufu wa maji kutokana na diuresis inayosababishwa na baridi. Kwa sababu ya matumizi ya asali na sukari, kiwango cha wanga cha mbwa huongezeka, na kwa sababu ya kutetemeka kwa muda mrefu, kiasi cha glycogen kilichowekwa kwenye mwili huongezeka. Ikiwa umefanya haraka, unapaswa kumfanya mbwa wako awe thabiti upesi. Unaweza kujua kama mbwa wako amesimama kwa kuangalia joto la mbwa wako kwa kutumia kipima-joto. Vipimo vya joto vya mbwa si vya bei ghali na vinapatikana katika aina mbalimbali, kutia ndani vya sikio, infrared, visivyo na mawasiliano, na rectal. Kwa kawaida, joto la mwili wa mbwa ni kati ya digrii 101 na 102.5. Hata hivyo, ikiwa dalili zinaendelea kwa hali mbaya, hasa ikiwa joto la mkojo wa mbwa ni chini ya digrii 95 (C), baada ya kuanza kupasha joto kwa dharura, kama hatua ya tahadhari, usafirishe mbwa wako kwenye kliniki ya mifugo iliyo karibu. Daktari wa mifugo anaweza kumtibu mbwa wako kwa mshtuko, kuongeza electrolytes, au kujumuisha oksijeni ya utando wa nje ya mwili. Ikiwa umechelewa sana kuanza matibabu ya dharura na mbwa wako hana msukumo au msukumo wa moyo, mara moja anza CPR ya mbwa wakati mtu anasaidia kupeleka mbwa wako kwenye kliniki ya mifugo. Tafadhali kumbuka kwamba joto la chini laweza kuruhusu kuokoka hata baada ya vipindi virefu vya hypoxia. Kwa hiyo, ikiwa mbwa wako hajibu mara moja kwa CPR, usikate tamaa. Kuongeza joto na CPR wakati wa kusafirisha mbwa wako kwa daktari wa mifugo Daktari wako wa mifugo anaweza kuingiza epinephrine na defibrillation ili kurudisha moyo wa mbwa wako na kupumua kwa kiwango cha kawaida. Kuathiriwa na baridi kali ni uharibifu wa ngozi na tishu zilizo karibu unaosababishwa na baridi kali. Mvua ya baridi kali huathiri sehemu za mwili zilizo mbali zaidi na moyo na ambazo zinaathiriwa zaidi na hali ya hewa. Katika mbwa, mara nyingi baridi kali huonekana kwenye mkia, ncha za masikio, vifuniko vya miguu, na uti wa mgongo. Mwili wa mbwa unapoanza kupoteza joto kwa sababu ya joto la mazingira baridi, upepo, au unyevu, vasoconstriction hutokea ambayo hukusanya damu katika ubongo na viscera. Vasoconstriction husaidia kudumisha joto la ndani ya mbwa, lakini hupunguza kiasi cha damu ya joto inayopatikana kwa tabaka za nje za ngozi. Kwa hiyo, uwezekano wa kufungia tishu ni mkubwa zaidi. Mvua ya baridi kali ina viwango kadhaa. Kiwango cha kwanza cha uzito huitwa frostnip, ambayo ina sifa ya baridi na kupoteza mzunguko wa damu katika tishu za mwili, lakini bila uharibifu wa tishu. Dalili za frostnip zinatia ndani kukwaruza na maumivu, pamoja na mabadiliko ya rangi ya nyeupe au bluu. Frostnip huathiri tu tabaka za nje za ngozi. Kwa sababu ya desquamation, uharibifu wa ngozi ya kudumu ni uwezekano mdogo kutokea. Hata hivyo, uharibifu wa neva za pembeni unaohusiana na hilo unaweza kupunguza uwezo wa mbwa wako wa kugundua mabadiliko ya joto. Kiwango cha pili cha uzito huhusisha kufungia na kuganda kwa tabaka za nje za ngozi. Maumivu ni makubwa kuliko yale ya frostnip. Ngozi yaweza kuwa nyekundu au nyeusi. Vipande vya maji na baridi-kibichi vyaweza kutokea mara moja au siku kadhaa baadaye. Inaelekea kwamba ngozi itapona baada ya majuma au miezi kadhaa ya kutibiwa. Hata hivyo, uwezekano mkubwa ni kwamba kuna madhara ya kudumu ya neva za nje katika eneo hilo. Kiwango cha tatu cha uzito ni kuharibiwa na baridi kali, ambapo tishu zilizo karibu chini ya ngozi pia huyeyuka. Eneo hilo litakuwa limepooza kwa muda na kuwa gumu sana kugusa. Ngozi yaweza kuwa nyeusi, mara moja au baada ya siku kadhaa. Kiwango cha nne cha ukali ni baridi kali, ambapo misuli, tendoni, mishipa ya damu, na neva zote huyeyuka. Eneo hilo huwa gumu sana na kupooza kwa sehemu fulani hutokea. Ngozi ya mtu inaweza kuwa nyeusi mara moja au baada ya siku kadhaa. Huenda ikawa na ugonjwa wa gangrene, ambao waweza kusababisha kukatwa kwa viungo. Ikiwa una dalili za frostbite, ondoa mbwa wako kutoka kwa baridi mara moja na uanze mchakato wa joto sawa na ule wa hypothermia, haswa kwa kuwa hypothermia na frostbite mara nyingi ni hali za comorbid. Hata hivyo, kuepuka harakati ya eneo frostbitten, ama na mbwa au na wewe wakati wa mchakato wa matibabu, na kuepuka hatua yoyote ambayo inaweza bila kukusudia kusababisha refriezing ya tishu, ambayo itaongeza kiasi cha uharibifu. Ikiwa inawezekana, funga au ufunge sehemu hiyo ili kuzuia usonge. Hata hivyo, epuka kuwasiliana kwa njia ya shinikizo, kama vile kutikisa au kutikisa. Jitahidi kuifungia mbwa wako kwa vitambaa vya umeme au chupa ya maji moto iliyofungwa kwenye kitambaa. Ili kuchochea joto la pande zote na mzunguko wa damu, chukua bafu ya joto kwenye eneo linaloathiriwa. Vinginevyo, funga eneo linaloathiriwa kwa kitambaa chenye unyevunyevu kilichotiwa maji ya joto. Baada ya kuanza matibabu ya dharura, wakati unaendelea kuhudhuria mbwa wako kwenye kiti cha nyuma, kuwa na mtu kukupeleka kwa daktari wa mifugo wa eneo lako. Daktari wako wa mifugo ataandika mpango wa matibabu ya muda mfupi na ya muda mrefu ambayo inaweza kujumuisha debridement na ambayo inaweza kujumuisha amputation (katika kesi kali). Kwa hivyo, hadi eneo hilo litakapopona kabisa, mbwa wako anaweza kuhitaji kuvaa kola ya Elizabethan ili kuzuia kutafuna na kujidhuru ambayo inaweza kutokea kutokana na maumivu ya muda mrefu. Katika visa vya baridi kali, uponyaji waweza kutokea katika siku chache. Katika visa vya baridi kali au baridi kali, uponyaji waweza kuhitaji majuma au miezi kadhaa. Isitoshe, ugonjwa huo hautakuwa na athari yoyote ikiwa ugonjwa huo utaanza. Kwa kusikitisha, mara nyingi baridi kali husababisha matatizo ya kudumu, kutia ndani mabadiliko katika hisia za joto, paresthesia, osteoporosis, ugonjwa wa viungo, na kansa. Pads zilizovunjika mara nyingi hutokea wakati mbwa anapofanya mazoezi kwenye nyuso baridi, kama vile saruji, wakati theluji au barafu inakusanyika kati ya pads, kutoka kwa kuwasiliana na vitu vikali kama vile chuma, mawe, burs, au miiba, au kutokana na matatizo ya kemikali za ndani au chumvi ya barabara. Dalili hizo zinatia ndani kunyonya mara nyingi eneo la kitambaa, vitambaa kavu, na kutokwa na damu. Matibabu ya matibabu ni pamoja na kusafisha pad kwa maji na sabuni ya antibacterial, kutumia dawa ya kuua viini, kutumia mafuta ya unyevu, kama vile Bag Balm (lakini tu mpaka jeraha linapoisha - pads inapaswa kuwa ngumu na ngumu, sio laini), kuweka soksi au gauze karibu na paw iliyoathiriwa, au kutumia boottie inayonunuliwa kwenye paw. Kwa kawaida vidonge vilivyovunjika huisha baada ya siku kadhaa hadi majuma mawili. Wakati huohuo, mwambie mbwa wako avale kola ya Elizabethan, ili asipige sehemu iliyoathiriwa. Kwa kuongezea, ili kuepuka majeraha ya fidia ambayo yanaweza kutokea kutokana na marekebisho ya mwendo yanayotokana na maumivu, punguza shughuli za mbwa wako hadi jeraha litakapopona au angalau mpaka atakapoonekana bila maumivu. Hata hivyo, ikiwa mpasuko huo ni wa kina kirefu au unatiririka damu sana, unapaswa kumtembelea daktari wako wa mifugo. Mbwa wako anaweza kuhitaji anesthesia ili kusafisha vizuri jeraha la kina na kuondoa damu nyingi. Kwa kuongezea, daktari wako wa mifugo aweza kuchagua kuagiza viuavijasumu. Mkazo waweza kutokea mbwa anapobaki nje katika baridi kwa muda mrefu. Kutetemeka, hofu, na kuchanganyikiwa kunakoweza kutokea kutokana na mbwa aliyeachwa nje wakati wa majira ya baridi kali bila makao ya kulala kunaweza kusababisha mkazo wa kisaikolojia. Kwa upande mwingine, mkazo wa jumla wa kimwili na kisaikolojia waweza kusababisha, wasiwasi, woga, mshuko wa moyo, kukasirika, kujitenga, kushikamana, kukosa hamu ya kula, na mabadiliko mengine ya tabia. Vivyo hivyo, mkazo wa kimwili unaosababishwa na baridi kali waweza kusababisha kuhara, kukosa hamu ya kula, kupoteza uzito, kukosa maji mwilini, na kupungua kwa sukari mwilini. Matibabu bora ya mkazo ni kuzuia na mabadiliko ya mazingira, ili mkazo usitokee. Tatu. Mambo ya Hatari Kama ilivyoelezwa mwanzoni, mbwa wengi hupenda hali ya hewa baridi. Hata hivyo, aina fulani za mbwa huwa hatarini zaidi wanapokabili hali ya hewa baridi ya majira ya baridi kali. Kwa kuongezea kuna hatari kadhaa za mazingira zinazozidisha. Isitoshe, kumbuka kwamba mbwa wote wanaweza kuwa hatarini. Hata mbegu za Nordic, kama vile Huskies ya Siberia na Alaskan Malamute, zinaweza kuugua hypothermia, baridi kali, pads cracked, au mkazo kama wao ni kushoto nje kwa muda mrefu wakati wa baridi ya majira ya baridi, hasa kama mtu hana tathmini muhimu hatari na kuchukua tahadhari sahihi. Kwa hiyo, hakuna mbwa asiye na hatari, lakini mambo yafuatayo huongeza hatari hiyo. Watoto na mbwa wazee wako katika hatari zaidi kuliko mbwa vijana au wa umri wa kati, kwa kuwa wana uwezo mdogo wa kudhibiti joto. Mbwa wadogo na wa jamii zenye miguu mifupi <unk> Mbwa walio chini ya ardhi hupata hasara kubwa ya joto kuliko mbwa wenye miguu mirefu. Mbwa wenye manyoya mafupi <unk> Mbwa wenye manyoya mawili wana manyoya ya chini ya manyoya yao ya nje. Hata hivyo, mbwa wenye manyoya mafupi ambao hawana manyoya ya chini watapata hasara kubwa zaidi ya joto wanapoathiriwa na joto la chini. Zaidi ya hayo, watapata hasara zaidi ya joto convective wakati wa hali ya upepo. Mbwa mwembamba sana: Mbwa mwembamba watakuwa na kiasi kikubwa cha eneo la uso wa mwili uliofunuliwa kwa vipengele kama uwiano wa uzito wao wa jumla. Kwa hiyo, watapata kiasi kikubwa cha kupoteza joto la mnururisho. Mbwa wenye uzito kupita kiasi <unk> Mbwa wenye uzito kupita kiasi wana misuli michache ikilinganishwa na uzito wao wa jumla wa mwili. Kwa kuwa utendaji wa misuli, kutia ndani kutetemeka, hutokeza joto ambalo huhifadhi joto la ndani, mbwa mwenye uzito kupita kiasi hawezi kutokeza joto kwa ufanisi. Kwa kuongezea, mioyo ya mbwa wenye uzito wa ziada lazima ifanye kazi kwa bidii zaidi kusukuma damu katika mwili wote, ambayo huunda ufanisi mdogo wakati shughuli za moyo zinahitajika kudumisha joto la mwili. Mwishowe, mbwa wenye uzito kupita kiasi huwa na mwelekeo wa kukaa chini. Mbwa anayeishi mahali pasipo na mwendo anaweza kudumisha joto la mwili wake vizuri kuliko mbwa anayeishi mahali pasipo na mwendo. Afya <unk> Magonjwa fulani huongeza uwezekano wa mbwa kupata hypothermia. Ugonjwa wa moyo, matatizo ya mzunguko wa damu, kisukari, matatizo ya adrenal, na hypothyroidism yaweza kuingilia kati na thermoregulation na kuathiri mbwa kuugua hypothermia. Vivyo hivyo magonjwa ya mifupa, kutia ndani ugonjwa wa viungo, yaweza kumfanya mbwa awe asiye na shughuli nyingi, jambo ambalo kwa upande wake hupunguza uwezo wa mbwa kuvumilia baridi. Kuumia kwaweza pia kumweka mbwa katika hatari kubwa zaidi. Mbwa ambao ni underfed itakuwa na chini ya glycogen kuhifadhi na ni uwezekano mkubwa wa kuwa hypoglycemic na hypothermic. Mbwa walio na upungufu wa maji mwilini <unk> Mbwa walio na upungufu wa maji mwilini huwa na shinikizo la chini la damu na hawawezi kudhibiti joto. Mbwa wenye mvua na mbwa wanaogelea katika hali ya hewa baridi wana hatari kubwa zaidi ya kupatwa na hypothermia. Maji huathiri vipengele vya insulation ya undercoat, ambayo hufanya mbwa zaidi ya kuathiriwa na radiant joto hasara na convective joto hasara. Kwa kuongezea, maji hutenda kama miongozo ambayo huongeza hasara ya joto la kuongoza na la kuangaza. Mbwa ambao hawana ulinzi kutoka upepo au mvua <unk> Upepo huongeza kupoteza joto kwa kuvuruga mifuko ya hewa ya kutenganisha iliyodumishwa ndani ya undercoat. Mvua hutenda kama mwongozo wa kupoteza joto. Kwa hiyo, mbwa aliye katika hali mbaya ya hewa ana hatari kubwa kuliko mbwa aliye na makao ya nje ambayo huzuia upepo na mvua. Ukosefu wa acclimatization <unk> Mbwa wanaweza kimwili na kisaikolojia acclimatize kwa hali ya hewa baridi. Kwa hiyo, mbwa ambaye kwa kawaida huishi ndani ya nyumba ana hatari kubwa zaidi. Hali ya hewa: joto chini ya 45 ° F, hali ya upepo ambayo huleta sababu ya baridi ya upepo chini ya 45 ° F, na mvua huongeza hatari ya hypothermia. Wakati nje: Muda mbwa hutumia nje bila makazi sahihi utaongeza uwezekano wa mbwa kuendeleza hypothermia, hasa wakati wa kuzingatia sababu nyingine za hatari zilizotajwa hapo juu. IV. Utafiti Hata hivyo, kwa kuchukua tahadhari zinazofaa, wamiliki na mbwa wanaweza kufurahia miezi ya baridi kali kwa usalama. Chini ni baadhi ya mbinu za kuzuia. Mlete mbwa wako ndani ya nyumba wakati wa mchana na hakika wakati wa usiku <unk> Watu wengi bado wanapendelea dhana ya zamani ya mbwa wa nje. Kwa kuongezea, watu wengi wangependa kuleta mbwa wao ndani ya nyumba, lakini wanashuku kwa sababu ya kuvunja nyumba, kutafuna, au matatizo ya mzio. Kwa wale wanaopenda mbwa wa nje, CPT inawakilisha kuwa mbwa ni wanyama wa kundi ambao wanataka kukusanyika na wanachama wao wa kundi. Kwa hiyo, isipokuwa kama unataka kuungana na mbwa wako nje, kuweka mbwa wako peke yake nje si tu kimwili inhuman, ni pia kisaikolojia inhuman. Kwa wale wanaohusika na kuvunja nyumba na kutafuna, karibu mbwa wote wanaweza kujifunza tabia sahihi za nyumbani, mradi tu unafanya mazoezi sahihi ya kuzuia, mafunzo, na mbinu za kurekebisha tabia. Ikiwa una wasiwasi juu ya jinsi ya kuendesha mbwa wako, tafadhali wasiliana na mtaalamu wa tabia. Utashangaa jinsi ilivyo rahisi kumzoeza mbwa wako kuwa rafiki wa karibu. Kwa mfano, ikiwa una wasiwasi juu ya mzio wa familia, basi kuoga mbwa wako mara kwa mara na shampoo ya oatmeal, kumnyunyiza mara kwa mara, na kuongeza lishe yake na asidi za mafuta za omega-3 na 6 zinapaswa kupunguza kiasi cha manyoya ambayo hutoka nyumbani. Kwa kuongezea, kusafisha mara kwa mara kwa vacuum yenye ubora na kichujio cha HEPA inapaswa kukuwezesha wewe na mbwa wako kukusanyika pamoja ndani ya nyumba bila kupiga chafya sana. Ikiwa unahitaji kuacha mbwa wako nje kwa muda mrefu wakati wa miezi ya majira ya baridi kali, fikiria kununua nyumba ya mbwa au Dogloo ambayo hutoa kifuniko kutoka kwa mvua na upepo. Kwa hivyo, kwa hivyo, unapaswa kumpa eneo lililofunikwa, kama vile chini ya deck ambayo pia ina mimea au vitu vingine vinavyolinda dhidi ya upepo. Kutoa maji mengi <unk> Ili kuzuia dehydration, hakikisha mbwa wako ana maji mengi safi ndani na nje. Ili kuzuia maji ya nje yasikandike, tumia bakuli la kauri au la plastiki na ulipandishe kutoka ardhini. Ununuzi wa suti ya mvua na suti ya mvua: Ikiwa mbwa wako ana manyoya mafupi, miguu fupi, au miguu fupi, fikiria kununua suti ya mvua kwa mbwa wako kwa matumizi wakati wa baridi na upepo na suti ya mvua wakati wa mvua. Boots ni muhimu sana kuzuia pads cracked na kupanua kiasi cha muda mbwa anaweza salama kubaki nje. Boots itapunguza conductive joto hasara kutoka pads mguu. Kwa mfano, mbwa wako anaweza kuwa na viatu vya miguu vya kutosha kwa muda mrefu katika hali ya hewa ya baridi kali, na kwa sababu ya theluji au barafu. Kulisha zaidi (au chini) <unk> Mbwa wako atakuwa na kiwango cha juu cha kimetaboliki ya kupumzika ikiwa yuko nje mara nyingi wakati wa majira ya baridi. Kwa hiyo, ili kudumisha kuhifadhi glycogen, uwezo wa thermoregulate, na uzito sahihi wa mwili, unapaswa kuongeza mbwa wako's rations wakati wa miezi ya majira ya baridi. Kwa upande mwingine, ikiwa wewe na mbwa wako mtatumia muda mwingi ndani ya nyumba wakati wa majira ya baridi kali na mtafanya mazoezi kidogo, na hivyo mbwa wako atakuwa na shughuli nyingi za kukaa, basi fikiria kupunguza kiasi cha chakula chake. Usimwage mbwa wako <unk> Kuogelea wakati wa hali ya hewa baridi huongeza sana uwezekano wa hypothermia na baridi kali. Epuka kumwacha mbwa wako katika gari baridi <unk> Hatari ya magari moto ni bora inayojulikana, lakini magari baridi pia ni uwezekano wa hatari. Magari yenye baridi kali yanaweza kuwa kama friji. Kwa kuongezea, huenda mbwa wako akaendelea kukaa kimya anapobaki peke yake ndani ya gari. Mbwa mwenye uzito sahihi na mwenye afya itakuwa na uwezo wa kuvumilia kwa usalama na kwa furaha muda mwingi nje wakati wa majira ya baridi kali. Kuwasiliana na mbwa wako <unk> Ikiwa unataka kwenda kambi ya majira ya baridi kali au kwenye matembezi marefu, kwanza kuwasiliana na mbwa wako na matembezi mafupi ya nje. Fikiria hali ya hewa <unk> Tathmini joto, upepo, na unyevu kabla ya kuacha mbwa wako nje kwa muda mrefu au kufanya safari ya kupiga kambi, kutembea kwa muda mrefu, au kukimbia kwa muda mrefu. Kwa kuongezea, fikiria ikiwa kuna theluji, barafu, au unyevu ardhini. Mwishowe, kwa wamiliki wa paka ambao wana paka wa nje, sheria nyingi zilikuwa zikitumika. Hata hivyo, kuna sheria moja ya ziada ya kuweka paka salama - angalia injini ya gari lako na chini ya gari lako kabla ya kuondoka kwenye karakana yako au carport. Mara nyingi paka hupenda kulala kando ya injini za magari au chini ya magari. Ili kuepuka kuumiza paka wako bila kukusudia kutoka kwa blade ya shabiki au tairi, tafadhali angalia gari lako kabla ya kuondoka. Katika miezi ya majira ya baridi kali kuna hatari ya kupatwa na hypothermia mbwa akiachwa nje kwa muda mrefu. Kwa sababu ya aina fulani za mbwa, umri, hali ya afya, tabia na hali maalum za mazingira, hatari ya mbwa kupata hypothermia, baridi kali, pads cracked, shinikizo la kimwili, au shinikizo la kisaikolojia kama matokeo ya kuambukizwa na hali ya hewa baridi ya majira ya baridi kali huongezeka. Hata hivyo, kuna njia kadhaa za kuzuia magonjwa ambayo yanaweza kufanya majira ya baridi kali yawe yenye kufurahisha na salama. Jambo la kwanza la kuzingatia ni kuleta mbwa wako ndani ya nyumba. Mbwa ni wanyama wa kundi ambao hupendelea kuwa pamoja na watu wa kundi lao ndani ya nyumba. Ikiwa una wasiwasi juu ya kuleta mbwa wako ndani ya nyumba kwa sababu ya wasiwasi juu ya uharibifu kutoka kwa kuvunja nyumba au kutafuna, basi mashauriano na mkufunzi wa tabia ya CPT yanapaswa kumwezesha mbwa wako kuwa mwenzake wa nyumbani mwenye jukumu. Kwa mfano, ikiwa una wasiwasi juu ya afya ya binadamu kutokana na ngozi ya mbwa, kuna mikakati ya utunzaji na lishe ambayo inapaswa kumruhusu mbwa wako kubaki ndani ya nyumba bila kudhulumu afya ya binadamu na faraja. "Hipothermia ya kiasi kidogo ni ""hisa ya joto la rectal kati ya 90 ° F na 90 ° F, hypothermia ya wastani ni ""hisa ya joto la rectal kati ya 82 ° F na 90 ° F, na hypothermia kali ni ""hisa ya joto la rectal chini ya 82 ° F.""" Kwa sababu ya hali ya afya ya mbwa wako, inashauriwa kumtembelea daktari wa mifugo ikiwa una dalili kali za ugonjwa na joto la mkojo chini ya 95 ° C.