It is noticed that the majority of young construction professionals just shrugs off the phrase “natural ventilation”, as in their collective head images of fans, recuperators, various inlet and check valves and other parts, with which any mechanical ventilation scheme is saturated. The problem is that relatively young, but rather experienced foremen have rarely come across this most natural ventilation of buildings as a model (most of them are self-taught).
Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation
Both natural and artificial ventilation have both advantages and disadvantages. To understand why the installation of their own hands should prefer natural ventilation mechanical, it is necessary to consider in detail the principle of the device first.
Up to the 90s, the ventilation device in residential buildings was natural, but most didn’t catch it: with plastic window windows, all kinds of insulation and elements of a smart home, natural ventilation was pushed to the periphery, where it was built for decades.
Interesting! Natural ventilation is a ventilation system in which there is no forced motive force: a fan or other mechanical device. Air traction under this scheme arises due to the pressure drop, and the working principle of natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperature indicators in the building and on the street. The greater the difference, the better the air exchange in the rooms is ensured.
Wooden windows lightly penetrated, half-centimeter gap under the door provided a natural traction. Required 30 m3/ hour per day provided by themselves, so that they rather sought a way to reduce the drafts that inevitably arise with natural ventilation.
The advantages of properly organized natural ventilation are obvious: it does not require any special expenses, it works by itself and softens the temperature conditions in the room. There are also enough minuses: the old ventilation was provided with old technologies. Now, especially when trying to do everything with your own hands, you need to carefully calculate the air flow, otherwise you can fall into extremum: drafts or lack of oxygen will be provided.
It is believed that such work should do the master. But the cheapness of natural ventilation compared to artificial allows you to adjust it yourself. In case of an error, it will be much easier and cheaper to correct it.
By the principle of the device, natural ventilation is divided into two main types:
- Channelless natural ventilation.
- Channel natural ventilation.
Ventilation of the premises, carried out manually, refers to the ductless ventilation: fresh air enters through open windows or windows in rooms and in the kitchen, and removal of exhausted air masses through exhaust grids in the kitchen and in the bathrooms.
Important! It is possible to make the calculation of natural ventilation only when the system is implemented by the channel method.
To install duct-type natural ventilation, it is necessary to make a duct system in the walls and ceilings. Calculation of the scheme and its installation is quite possible with their own hands.
If you want to make a ventilation system in the house with your own hands, you need to do a simple calculation of natural ventilation. Knowledge of SNiPs is not required – just the basics of arithmetic and a few basic constants.
Helpful advice! The intensity of air exchange is regulated by five SNiPs, common to the entire Russian territory, and a sufficient number of regional standards. But to calculate the natural ventilation traction in a private building, you can do without them.
You need to know that the flow rate of 30 m is considered the norm.3/ hour per person, plus another 30 “just like that” for the kitchen. Therefore, it makes no sense to think about the area and layout of the building, if it is a private house. Depending on the latitude, the standard draft can be taken as equal to 20 m.3/ hour for north to 40 m3/ hour in the south. In the north, the air is much denser and colder, therefore, it is undesirable to overload the heating with intensive air exchange. In the south, air density is lower, and a person’s metabolism is faster. All doors should have a gap below 1 to 2 cm, respectively.
Conventionally, all the rooms are divided into “dirty” – this is the kitchen and bathroom in the first place, then utility rooms, pantries, warmed basements and capital attics. “Clean” is all living quarters.
If you discuss the issue of how to make natural ventilation quite briefly, the principles are very simple. From the dirty rooms the air is removed using the hood. In the same clean equip flow, but in any case do not install the hood: it only provides a draft and a large loss of heat in the cold season. The air must pass through all the rooms in the building with a common flow (or several “parallel”).
If any work is often done in the garage, then both inflow and extractor are needed. And do not forget about the “trunk” for the exhaust pipe with access to the street.
Exhaust natural ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom should be more powerful due to odors, moreover, these rooms are always located as far as possible from residential. That is, in any case, at least it is necessary to equip vertical channels for the kitchen, for the bathroom, and the higher they are, the better. In 99% of cases, typical layouts of private houses are already run in according to the most convenient scheme: all the channels of each room are combined into one common shaft, located in the middle of the building. This will not only reduce the loss of available space, but also the mine will exit at the highest point of the roof, and the height will ensure the quality of the traction. An additional plus: you will not need to do too high pipes on the roof – this will facilitate their maintenance.
If the house is brick, then there is an even more logical and cheaper option: the mine itself is the channel / channels. And if the house is frame, wooden, or it is simply reconstructed (that is, a brick shaft in the middle of a building cannot be made without complete “smashing”), then PVC plastic or sewer pipes are usually used. There is no difference, since the temperature regime of the pipes will be almost natural.
The shaft-pipe brought to the roof of the building must be sheathed with insulation. This will prevent the pipe from collapsing due to temperature fluctuations – the kitchen hood will in any case have a significant difference with the external atmosphere, and the inner surface of the shaft will expand. At the same time it will significantly reduce the amount of condensate. From above the pipe it is necessary to make a cap to protect it from snow and rain.
If the house is low or in southern latitudes, then the thrust may be insufficient. Under different weather conditions, a reverse thrust effect can occur, then the presence of a real fireplace or even a water heater with its built-in tap can lead to unpleasant consequences. In this case, the fans are installed at the outlets of the channels, which will be turned on when using the hood in the kitchen, water heater or fireplace.
It is required to install only inlet valves in residential premises, and even then not always. The air must go from the inlet valve of natural ventilation to the door, but not circulate inside the room – the hood cannot be installed, as it will provide a constant but imperceptible draft.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the windows and vents – this is the main natural air flow. Classic wooden windows and with closed vents pass from half to the norm of the volume of air each. But modern frames are impregnated with fire-fighting compound and repeatedly coated or even kept in varnish. The modern composition of rubber and tin upholstery under glass transform such windows into almost plastic glass – full temperature and sound insulation. It remains to use the vents.
But the vents give too much heat loss and are too discretely regulated with a serrated pinhole. Therefore, there are frames into which ventilators are inserted, allowing air to pass through the system of microchannels, almost like in a recuperator, which gives a constant air flow with a temperature increase of 20 ° C.
However, if you want a more accurate (10-20 times) control of the incoming air flow, you can install valves for the inlet flow under the ceiling in the outer wall. In the old models, they are provided with a lid with a vigner, and in the new ones, the already familiar curtain blinds are used. Their convenience is that, unlike the vents, on each of the valves you can once set the required minimum clearance, after which the vent is required only on a particularly hot day.
The garage is characterized by an abundance of too strong odors, if it is used regularly. In theory, it would be good to equip it with a forced exhaust, but if the temperature inside is completely unimportant, then it is quite possible to establish a natural one.
"Watu wengi wanaotumia ""ventilation ya asili"" kwa ajili ya ujenzi, kama vile picha zao za kichwa cha pamoja ya mashabiki, recuperators, valves mbalimbali za kuingia na kurudi na sehemu nyingine ambazo mpango wowote wa uingizaji hewa wa mitambo ni saturated." Tatizo ni kwamba vijana kwa kulinganisha, lakini badala ya uzoefu foremen ni mara chache kuja juu ya hii zaidi ya asili ya uingizaji hewa wa majengo kama mfano (wengi wao ni autodidact). Faida na hasara za uingizaji hewa wa asili Uingizaji hewa wa asili na wa bandia una faida na hasara zote mbili. Ili kuelewa kwa nini ufungaji wa mikono yao wenyewe inapaswa kupendelea uingizaji hewa wa asili, ni muhimu kuzingatia kwa undani kanuni ya kifaa kwanza. Hadi miaka ya 90, kifaa cha uingizaji hewa katika majengo ya makazi kilikuwa cha asili, lakini wengi hawakukamata: na madirisha ya plastiki, aina zote za insulation na vipengele vya nyumba ya akili, uingizaji hewa wa asili ulisukumwa kwa pembeni, ambapo ilijengwa kwa miongo. Jambo lenye kupendeza! Ventilation ya asili ni mfumo wa uingizaji hewa ambapo hakuna nguvu ya kusukuma: shabiki au kifaa kingine cha mitambo. Uingizaji wa hewa chini ya mpango huu hutokea kutokana na kushuka kwa shinikizo, na kanuni ya kazi ya uingizaji hewa ya asili inategemea tofauti ya viashiria vya joto katika jengo na barabarani. Tofauti hiyo inapokuwa kubwa, ndivyo kubadilishana kwa hewa katika vyumba kunavyohakikishwa. Madirisha ya mbao yaliingia kwa urahisi, pengo la nusu sentimeta chini ya mlango lilitoa uvutano wa asili. Kwa sababu ya mahitaji ya 30 m3 kwa saa kwa siku, kampuni hiyo ilitafuta njia ya kupunguza mtiririko wa hewa ambao unatokana na uingizaji hewa wa asili. Faida za uingizaji hewa wa asili uliopangwa vizuri ni dhahiri: hauhitaji gharama yoyote maalum, inafanya kazi yenyewe na hupunguza hali ya joto katika chumba. Pia kuna minuses kutosha: uingizaji hewa wa zamani ulitolewa na teknolojia za zamani. Wakati wa kujaribu kufanya kila kitu kwa mikono yako, unahitaji kuhesabu kwa uangalifu mtiririko wa hewa, vinginevyo unaweza kuanguka katika hali ya juu: rasimu au ukosefu wa oksijeni utatolewa. Inaaminika kwamba kazi kama hiyo inapaswa kufanywa na bwana. Lakini bei ya chini ya uingizaji hewa wa asili ikilinganishwa na ya bandia hukuruhusu kuirekebisha mwenyewe. Ikiwa kuna kosa, itakuwa rahisi zaidi na nafuu zaidi kulirekebisha. Kwa kanuni ya kifaa, uingizaji hewa wa asili umegawanywa katika aina mbili kuu: - Uingizaji hewa wa asili bila njia. - Njia ya uingizaji hewa wa asili. Uingizaji hewa wa vyumba, uliofanywa kwa mkono, unahusu uingizaji hewa bila mifereji: hewa safi huingia kupitia madirisha ya wazi au madirisha katika vyumba na jikoni, na kuondoa mizigo ya hewa iliyotupwa kupitia gridi za kutupa katika jikoni na bafu. Jambo la maana! Ni inawezekana kufanya mahesabu ya uingizaji hewa wa asili tu wakati mfumo ni kutekelezwa na njia ya mfereji. Ili kufunga aina ya mfereji wa hewa ya asili, ni muhimu kufanya mfumo wa mfereji katika kuta na dari. Mahesabu ya mpango na ufungaji wake ni uwezekano kabisa na mikono yao wenyewe. Ikiwa unataka kufanya mfumo wa uingizaji hewa ndani ya nyumba kwa mikono yako mwenyewe, unahitaji kufanya hesabu rahisi ya uingizaji hewa wa asili. Ujuzi wa SNiPs haihitajiki <unk> tu misingi ya hesabu na constants chache za msingi. Mashauri Yenye Kusaidia! Kiasi cha kubadilishana hewa ni kudhibitiwa na tano SNiPs, kawaida kwa eneo lote la Urusi, na idadi ya kutosha ya viwango vya kikanda. Lakini kuhesabu traction ya hewa ya asili katika jengo binafsi, unaweza kufanya bila yao. Kwa mfano, kiwango cha mtiririko wa 30 m3 kwa mtu mmoja ni kawaida, na 30 m3 kwa mtu mmoja ni kawaida. Kwa hiyo, haina maana ya kufikiri kuhusu eneo na mpangilio wa jengo, kama ni nyumba ya kibinafsi. Kulingana na latitudo, kiwango cha kuchimba kinaweza kuchukuliwa kuwa sawa na 20 m 3 kwa saa kwa kaskazini hadi 40 m 3 kwa saa kusini. Katika kaskazini, hewa ni nyingi zaidi na baridi, kwa hiyo, ni undesirable kwa overload joto na kubadilishana hewa ya kina. Katika kusini, unene wa hewa ni wa chini, na kimetaboliki ya mtu ni ya haraka zaidi. Kwa upande mwingine, milango ya nyumba inapaswa kuwa na nafasi ya chini ya 1 cm. Kwa kawaida, vyumba vyote vimegawanywa katika <unk> chafu <unk> hii ni jikoni na bafuni kwanza, kisha vyumba vya huduma, pantries, vyumba vya chini vya joto na ghorofa za juu za mji mkuu. "Safisha" ni sehemu zote za kuishi. Kwa mfano, ikiwa unafikiria jinsi ya kuingiza hewa ya asili, kanuni ni rahisi sana. Hewa hutolewa kutoka vyumba vyenye uchafu kwa kutumia kofia ya hewa. Katika mtiririko huo wa vifaa safi, lakini kwa hali yoyote usisakinishe hood: inatoa tu rasimu na hasara kubwa ya joto katika msimu wa baridi. Hewa lazima kupita kupitia vyumba vyote katika jengo na mtiririko wa kawaida (au kadhaa <unk> sambamba<unk>). Kama kazi yoyote ni mara nyingi kufanyika katika karakana, basi wote inflow na extractor zinahitajika. Na usisahau kuhusu <unk>trunk<unk> kwa bomba la kutolea nje na upatikanaji wa mitaani. Ventilation ya asili ya kuchemsha katika jikoni na bafu inapaswa kuwa na nguvu zaidi kutokana na harufu, zaidi ya hayo, vyumba hivi daima viko mbali iwezekanavyo kutoka kwa makazi. Kwa hiyo, ni muhimu kuandaa njia za wima kwa ajili ya jikoni, bafuni, na juu zaidi. Katika 99% ya kesi, mipangilio ya kawaida ya nyumba za kibinafsi tayari imeendeshwa kulingana na mpango rahisi zaidi: mifereji yote ya kila chumba imeunganishwa katika shaft moja ya kawaida, iliyoko katikati ya jengo. Hii si tu kupunguza hasara ya nafasi inapatikana, lakini pia mgodi itakuwa kuondoka katika hatua ya juu ya paa, na urefu kuhakikisha ubora wa traction. A ziada ya ziada: hutahitaji kufanya mabomba ya juu sana juu ya paa <unk> hii itasaidia matengenezo yao. Ikiwa nyumba ni ya matofali, basi kuna chaguo la busara zaidi na la bei nafuu: mgodi wenyewe ni njia ya njia. Na kama nyumba ni frame, mbao, au ni tu kujengwa upya (yaani, matofali shaft katikati ya jengo haiwezi kufanywa bila kamili <unk>smashing<unk>), basi PVC plastiki au mifereji ya mifereji ya maji machafu ni kawaida kutumika. Hakuna tofauti, kwa kuwa hali ya joto ya mabomba itakuwa karibu ya asili. Shaft-bomba kuletwa kwa paa la jengo lazima sheathed na insulation. Hii itazuia bomba kutoka kuanguka kutokana na mabadiliko ya joto <unk> hood jikoni itakuwa katika hali yoyote tofauti kubwa na anga ya nje, na uso wa ndani ya shaft kupanua. Wakati huo huo itapunguza kwa kiasi kikubwa kiasi cha condensate. Kutoka juu ya bomba ni muhimu kufanya kofia ili kuilinda kutoka theluji na mvua. Ikiwa nyumba hiyo iko chini au iko kusini mwa latitudo, huenda nguvu ya kusukuma isiwe ya kutosha. Chini ya hali tofauti ya hali ya hewa, athari ya kusukuma nyuma inaweza kutokea, kisha uwepo wa moto halisi au hata maji ya maji yenye bomba lake la ndani inaweza kusababisha matokeo yasiyo ya kupendeza. Katika kesi hii, mashabiki ni imewekwa katika outlets ya mifereji, ambayo itakuwa akageuka juu wakati wa kutumia hood katika jikoni, maji ya joto au fireplace. Ni required kufunga tu valves inlet katika majengo ya makazi, na hata hivyo si daima. Hewa lazima kwenda kutoka valve inlet ya uingizaji hewa wa asili kwa mlango, lakini si kuzunguka ndani ya chumba <unk> hood haiwezi kuwekwa, kama itakuwa kutoa mara kwa mara lakini imperceptible rasimu. Kwanza kabisa, unahitaji kuzingatia madirisha na vents <unk> hii ni mkondo kuu wa hewa ya asili. Classic madirisha ya mbao na na kufungwa vents kupita kutoka nusu kwa kiwango cha kiasi cha hewa kila mmoja. Lakini fremu za kisasa hufunikwa kwa mchanganyiko wa kuzima moto na kufunikwa mara kwa mara au hata kuhifadhiwa katika varnish. Muundo wa kisasa wa mpira na bati upholstery chini ya kioo kubadilisha madirisha kama katika karibu kioo plastiki <unk> joto kamili na sauti insulation. Bado ni lazima tutumie mashimo ya hewa. Lakini mashimo ya hewa hutoa hasara kubwa sana ya joto na ni discretely sana umewekwa na pinhole serrated. Kwa hiyo, kuna mifumo ambayo ventilators ni kuingizwa, kuruhusu hewa kupita kupitia mfumo wa microchannels, karibu kama katika recuperator, ambayo inatoa mtiririko wa hewa mara kwa mara na ongezeko la joto la 20 ° C. Hata hivyo, kama unataka zaidi sahihi (10-20 mara) kudhibiti mtiririko wa hewa ya kuingia, unaweza kufunga valves kwa ajili ya mtiririko wa kuingia chini ya dari. Katika mifano ya zamani, wao ni zinazotolewa na kifuniko na vigner, na katika mpya, tayari ukoo blinds kutumika. Kwa sababu ya urahisi wao, tofauti na vents, kwenye kila moja ya valves unaweza kuweka mara moja kiwango cha chini kinachohitajika, baada ya hapo vents inahitajika tu katika siku ya joto. Gari ni sifa na wingi wa harufu kali sana, kama ni kutumika mara kwa mara. Kwa nadharia, ingekuwa vizuri kuandaa na exhaust kulazimishwa, lakini kama joto ndani ni kabisa unimportant, basi ni uwezekano mkubwa wa kuanzisha moja ya asili.