The story of ceremonial Cacao starts with the land. Cacao trees of certain strains must be grown in certain soils and only between certain latitudes. The delicacy of heirloom Cacao trees makes not only for their magnificent flavor and healing power but also for their exceeding rarity.
But does this delicate process end when the pods are pulled from the tree? The Cacao farmers would tell you: it’s only just begun.
Fermentation of Ceremonial Cacao
When the pods are harvested from the Cacao trees, they are split and the fruit inside is harvested. The seeds of Cacao, popularly known as Cacao beans, are surrounded by a white, juicy “flesh” or pulp. While sweet and surprisingly nutritious, this pulp is not the main event: the seed is.
The fermentation process is actually the fermentation of this pulp, which becomes inoculated with microorganisms in the environment. As the pulp is digested by these microorganisms, it falls away ands leaves just the seed exposed. Criollo-variety beans and most heirloom strains (as used in our Cacao) take anywhere from 3-5 days, while GMO strains can take up to 7 days. The farmers we work with (as is the case for most farms) use a wooden box. The beans are often covered with banana leaves within the box and are moved every 24-48 hours.
As the Cacao is rotated through these boxes, many chemical reactions occur while the interior heat of the Cacao mass rises and falls with each turning. The various chain reactions ultimately yield a soup of ethanol (alcohol, as develops during kombucha fermentation) and acetic acid. These compounds start to break down the cell walls in the bean, allowing enzymatic breakdown of the proteins and carbohydrates inside. The Cacao will now begin to develop the characteristic “chocolate” flavors that will further mature during roasting.
There are many farmers nowadays that skip the fermentation process of the bean, which is unfortunate because fermentation is a crucial part of processing Cacao. It activates nutrients, supports proper absorption, and brings out the delicate flavor of the Cacao bean. When this process of fermentation is skipped, the ungerminated bean won’t develop optimal Cacao flavor and certain key nutrient concentrations will not reach full potential. While reduction of some antioxidants occurs during fermentation (usually around 10%), it is a small trade-off for the much-reduced astringency of a fermented bean and the awakening of the secondary aroma characteristics of heirloom Cacao: notes of flowers, tropical fruits, and malt.
Drying Ceremonial Cacao
Once fermented, the beans are dried for about a week or two, depending on the weather. Our farmers use the traditional sun drying method, which modern science has shown best maintains the antioxidant integrity of the Cacao. As a rule, the slower the drying process, the less abrupt are the chemical reactions taking place inside the bean. Under higher-heat drying conditions (artificial dryers, heated chambers), unfavorable condensation reactions can occur within the bean, lowering its nutrient abundance. In climates too humid for natural drying (which Ecuador is not), the contained drying methods have been known to cause smokey off-flavors which are not desirable to most Cacao lovers.
Once dried, these beans can be roasted—the final step in producing Cacao nibs for consumption.
Roasting of Ceremonial Cacao
There has been a movement toward “raw” Cacao under the false assumption that skipping the vital roasting step is closer to traditional intention. We often hear about the potential loss of nutrients when Cacao is no longer “raw”, but the Mayans—and many other ancient civilizations who have worked with this sacred plant for thousands of years—see roasting as an important step in the process. According to Nana Marina from the Tz’utujil Maya nation, the aroma that comes from roasting the Cacao becomes an offering to the higher energies, the Gods, and the ancestors.
The Maya believe that the ceremony for Cacao begins in the process of roasting, and that one should be aware of how they are showing up while working with the sacred plant every step of the way, including the roasting. They believe that the intention and emotional state a person has when processing the Cacao is an active ingredient that directly impacts the Cacao. Needless to say, there is no ceremonial grade without roasting.
Importantly, roasting also affects the flavor, aroma, and nutrient content of the Cacao. During roasting, compounds that have developed during fermentation can interact and produce the recognizable “chocolate” flavor. These flavors are the result of a Maillard reaction between amino acids and sugars in the Cacao (this is what happens when you “brown” any food). These recognizable and delightful flavors do not happen without heat. In fact, without roasting, Cacao is highly astringent and bitter. Roasting allows these flavors to mellow considerably, and allows for the more delicate nuances of the bean to come out.
But not all roasting is equal. This is a key point to make when considering the effect of roasting on the nutritional value of the bean. Generally, a lower roasting temperature will better maintain the nutritional integrity of the Cacao bean. While there are some antioxidants that are destroyed by the heat reactions in roasting and some that are actually created, the best balance by ORAC measures (oxygen radical absorbency capacity—more about that here [link to Lab report 2] is maintained through low-heat, relatively short roasting periods. Traditional fire-roasting methods generally maintain this low-heat preference, although the skill and experience of the roaster is paramount. Controlling the fire, the aroma, and sensing when the Cacao is perfect is central to the sacred intention behind ceremonial Cacao. To prepare the Cacao correctly is to respect it.
Respecting the Process
In our new digital world of endless optimization, tinkering, and revision of ancient wisdom, it can be tempting to try to engineer something to be just that little bit better. But, as we’ve tried to show here, modern science can confirm what centuries of continuous process already know: traditional methods are often the best methods. This is certainly true for Cacao.
Ceremonial grade Cacao is crafted with the intention of thousands of years of sacred practice. Growing, fermenting, drying, and roasting are integral to that practice. With respect for those who have come before and for those that are doing the work with us now, we are honored to continue the process.
Hadithi ya kakao ya sherehe huanza na ardhi. Miti ya kakao ya aina fulani lazima ikulishwe katika udongo fulani na tu kati ya latitudo fulani. Mti wa kakao ni mti wa kipekee sana, na si tu kwa sababu ya ladha yake nzuri na uwezo wake wa kuponya, bali pia kwa sababu ni wa nadra sana. Lakini je, utaratibu huo wa upole unamalizika wakati magamba yanapoondolewa kwenye mti? Wakulima wa kakao wangekuambia: imeanza tu. Uchemchemi wa Kakao ya Sherehe Wakati magamba yanapokusanywa kutoka kwa miti ya Kakao, yanagawanywa na matunda yaliyo ndani yake hukusanywa. Mbegu za kakao, zinazojulikana sana kama maharagwe ya kakao, zimezungukwa na nyama nyeupe yenye ladha nzuri. Ingawa ni tamu na yenye lishe ya kushangaza, si pulp hiyo ambayo ni muhimu zaidi: ni mbegu. Mchakato wa kuchaji ni fermentation ya pulp hii, ambayo inakuwa inoculated na viumbe wadogo katika mazingira. Wakati pulp inapoyeyushwa na viumbe hawa wadogo, huanguka na kuacha mbegu tu iliyo wazi. Kwa mfano, aina ya maharagwe ya Criollo na aina nyingi za mrithi (kama inavyofanywa katika kakao yetu) huchukua siku 3-5 wakati aina za GMO zinaweza kuchukua hadi siku 7. Wakulima tunaofanya kazi nao (kama ilivyo katika mashamba mengi) hutumia sanduku la mbao. Mazao ya maharagwe hufunikwa na majani ya ndizi ndani ya sanduku na kuhamishwa kila baada ya masaa 24. Cacao inapozunguka katika masanduku hayo, athari nyingi za kemikali hutokea wakati joto la ndani la mimea hiyo linapopanda na kushuka kila wakati. Mwishowe, athari mbalimbali za mfululizo hutokeza mchuzi wa ethanoli (alkohol, kama inavyofanyizwa wakati wa kuchemsha kombucha) na asidi asidi. Vifaa hivyo huanza kuvunja ukuta wa chembe za nyanya, na hivyo kuwezesha uharibifu wa protini na wanga. Cacao sasa itaanza kuendeleza ladha ya "chokoleti" ya tabia ambayo itakua zaidi wakati wa kuchoma. Wakulima wengi wa siku hizi hupuuza mchakato wa kuchaji maharagwe, ambayo ni bahati mbaya kwa sababu kuchaji ni sehemu muhimu ya usindikaji wa kakao. Inasaidia virutubisho, huchochea kunyonya vizuri, na huonyesha ladha tamu ya maharagwe ya kakao. Wakati mchakato huu wa uchemchemi unapoachwa, maharagwe yasiyo na mbegu hayatakuwa na ladha bora ya Kakao na viwango fulani muhimu vya virutubisho havitafikia uwezo kamili. Wakati kupunguza baadhi ya antioxidants hutokea wakati wa fermentation (kwa kawaida karibu 10%), ni biashara ndogo kwa astringence sana kupunguzwa ya maharagwe fermented na kuamka kwa sifa ya harufu ya sekondari ya mrithi Cacao: maelezo ya maua, matunda ya kitropiki, na malt. Baada ya kuchemshwa, maharagwe hayo huyeyushwa kwa muda wa juma moja au mbili, ikitegemea hali ya hewa. Wakulima wetu hutumia njia ya jadi ya kukausha jua, ambayo sayansi ya kisasa imeonyesha inadumisha bora uadilifu wa antioxidant wa kakao. Kwa kawaida, kadiri mchakato wa kukausha unavyokuwa polepole, ndivyo athari za kemikali zinazotokea ndani ya maharagwe zinavyokuwa polepole. Chini ya hali ya kukausha joto la juu (kuoka bandia, vyumba vya joto), athari mbaya za condensation zinaweza kutokea ndani ya maharagwe, kupunguza wingi wake wa virutubisho. Katika hali ya hewa ya unyevu sana kwa kukausha asili (ambayo Ecuador si), mbinu zilizomo za kukausha zinajulikana kusababisha harufu za moshi ambazo hazipendwi na wapenzi wengi wa kakao. Mara baada ya kukaushwa, maharagwe haya yanaweza kuchomwa - hatua ya mwisho katika kuzalisha nibs za Cacao kwa ajili ya matumizi. Kuoka ya Cacao ya Sherehe Kumekuwa na harakati kuelekea Cacao ya <unk>raw<unk> chini ya dhana bandia kwamba kuruka hatua muhimu ya kuoka ni karibu na nia ya jadi. Mara nyingi tunasikia juu ya uwezekano wa kupoteza virutubisho wakati Kakao haipo tena, lakini Wamayana na ustaarabu mwingine mwingi wa kale ambao wamefanya kazi na mmea huu mtakatifu kwa maelfu ya miaka wanaona kuchoma kama hatua muhimu katika mchakato. Kulingana na Nana Marina kutoka taifa la Maya la Tzutujil, harufu inayotokana na kuchoma kakao inakuwa toleo kwa nguvu za juu, Miungu, na mababu. Wamayas wanaamini kwamba sherehe ya kakao huanza wakati wa kuchoma, na kwamba mtu anapaswa kuwa na ufahamu wa jinsi wanavyoonekana wakati wa kufanya kazi na mmea mtakatifu kila hatua ya njia, ikiwa ni pamoja na kuchoma. Kwa hivyo, nia na hali ya kihisia ya mtu wakati wa kusindika kakao ni kiungo hai ambacho huathiri moja kwa moja kakao. Bila shaka, hakuna darasa la sherehe bila kuchoma. Jambo la maana ni kwamba kuchoma huathiri pia ladha, harufu, na virutubisho vya kakao. Wakati wa kuchoma, misombo ambayo imesitawi wakati wa chachu inaweza kuingiliana na kuzalisha ladha ya <unk>chocolate<unk> inayojulikana. Ladha hizi ni matokeo ya athari ya Maillard kati ya asidi za amino na sukari katika Cacao (hii ni nini kinatokea wakati wewe <unk>brown<unk> chakula chochote). Ladha hizo zenye kutambulika na zenye kupendeza hazitokei bila joto. Kwa kweli, bila kuchomwa, kakao huwa yenye kuvutia sana na chungu. Kuoka huwezesha ladha hizo kupungua kwa kiasi kikubwa, na huwezesha rangi nyembamba zaidi za maharagwe kutokezwa. Lakini si uchomaji wote unaofanana. Hii ni jambo muhimu la kukazia tunapozungumzia jinsi kuchoma kunavyoathiri thamani ya lishe ya maharagwe. Kwa ujumla, joto la chini la kuchoma litadumisha vizuri usafi wa lishe ya maharagwe ya kakao. Wakati kuna baadhi ya antioxidants kwamba ni kuharibiwa na athari za joto katika roasting na baadhi ambayo ni kweli kuundwa, usawa bora na vipimo ORAC (usukani radical uwezo wa kunyonya) ni kudumishwa kwa njia ya joto la chini, vipindi vya muda mfupi roasting. Njia za jadi za kuchoma moto kwa ujumla huhifadhi upendeleo huu wa joto la chini, ingawa ustadi na uzoefu wa mchomaji ni wa msingi. Kudhibiti moto, harufu, na kuhisi wakati Cacao ni kamilifu ni muhimu kwa nia takatifu nyuma ya sherehe Cacao. Kuandaa Kakao kwa usahihi ni kuiheshimu. Katika ulimwengu wetu mpya wa dijiti wa uboreshaji usio na mwisho, kurekebisha, na marekebisho ya hekima ya kale, inaweza kuwa ya kuvutia kujaribu kubuni kitu kuwa bora kidogo. Lakini, kama tulivyojaribu kuonyesha hapa, sayansi ya kisasa inaweza kuthibitisha kile karne ya mchakato wa kuendelea tayari kujua: mbinu za jadi ni mara nyingi mbinu bora. Hii ni kweli kwa Cacao. Kakao ya darasa la sherehe hutengenezwa kwa nia ya maelfu ya miaka ya mazoezi matakatifu. Kukua, kuchemsha, kukausha, na kuoka ni sehemu muhimu ya zoea hilo. Kwa heshima kwa wale waliokuja kabla yetu na kwa wale ambao wanafanya kazi na sisi sasa, tuna heshima ya kuendelea na mchakato huu.