The holidays are over but the weather outside is still pretty frightful. Here on the coast it is altogether wet — the ground is sodden and squishy. Elsewhere, snow is falling, and the ground is freezing hard. Only the most spirited of winter gardeners are still making trips to the greenhouse, low tunnels, or raised beds at this time of year; yet some plants are so slow to start that January is actually prime time to launch seedlings for the new year. The sun is very low on the horizon, so starting winter seedlings requires certain equipment, most importantly artificial light.
The recommendations here are intended to produce seedlings that can be transplanted after a March 28 Last Average Frost date. That date is specific to south coastal BC, the Gulf Islands & San Juan Islands, and the US Pacific Northwest. The plants discussed here need plenty of time after transplant before they mature and set flowers or fruit. If your last frost date is at the end of April instead of the end of March, simply adjust forward by one month. On the other hand, if you live up north where the growing season is short and intense, starting early seedlings indoors will be key to success. Please check out our Regional Planting Charts for basic guidance on starting seeds in different regions.
Remember — most crops grow fast enough that they can be direct sown much later as spring unfolds. Many of the crops listed here are perennials or biennials. A very early start may induce flowering in the first year of growth. Also — these seeds can all be started later in the year. There is no rule saying they must be planted in the winter. Let's look at each one in turn.
Here are 10 Seeds To Start In January
This perennial cousin of the Aster benefits from an early indoor start from January to early February. This strategy is to induce blooming in the first year. Artichokes can be started much later in the year, but no crop will come until year two and beyond. Keep artichoke seedlings under very bright light so they remain stout and compact. The time to transplant is shortly after the last frost date, so that the seedlings experience a period of about 250 hours below 10°C (50°F). This cool period simulates winter for the plants, and triggers flower formation in the first season. Give the seedlings protection if hard frost is in the forecast during this critical stage.
The strategy with this perennial is to encourage strong growth in the root crown during the first years of growth. This allows the plants to become strong and well-established for years of productivity. Unlike artichokes, an early start is not going to produce asparagus in the first year — alas, not even in the second year of growth! For the first two years, the stems and foliage are allowed to simply grow and gather energy that is stored in the plant's root system over winter. By year three, if everything is going to plan, asparagus plants should be vigorous enough to send up lots of stems for cropping. Anyone with first hand asparagus-experience knows that this tantalizing wait is worth every moment. Fresh, home-dug asparagus is a truly wonderful thing. As with artichokes, keep early-planted seedlings very brightly lit to avoid spindly growth and leggy stems.
These flowers (all members of the genus Aquilegia) are prime examples of perennials that, if planted later in the year, might not produce flowers in the first year of growth. Once again, that's not necessarily a bad thing — the flowers will eventually appear in year two and onward. But for first year blooms, a really early start is key. Direct sow columbine seedsany time from autumn to mid-winter. The seeds can be started indoors, but it’s more complicated: Sow seeds in flats of moistened, sterilized seed starting mix, and place these inside plastic bags in the refrigerator for two to three weeks. Then sink the flats outdoors in the ground in a shady spot, and cover with glass or plastic. As seedlings appear, transplant them or pot them on. Germination takes 30-90 days. The flowers of columbine are followed by exotic looking seed pods which slowly split open as they dry in the summer. The pods are held upright, so the seeds inside are particularly easy to save for future planting.
Biennial plants like foxgloves (and indeed, beets and carrots) typically put on leafy foliar growth in the first year, and store their energy in some kind of swollen taproot. After the first winter, the plant uses that stored energy to flower and produce seeds. Most biennials have rather extraordinary flowers and copious seeds that would be difficult to produce from only one year of growth. For flowers the first year, sow foxgloves indoors very early, in December or January. Transplant two to three weeks before last frost. The seeds may take 14-21 days to germinate. If starting indoors, provide bright light and a soil temperature of 15-18°C (60-65°F).
This perennial plant is a bit like columbine in that it may not bloom in the first year from a spring planting. However, lavender is a very long-lived perennial that develops a woody stem over time, and seems to bloom in greater profusion from one year to the next. It maintains much of its foliage over the winter in mild regions, unlike columbine, which basically dies back to ground level. Lavender seeds germinate most evenly if seeds can be collected in the autumn and sown on the surface of a seed tray with bottom heat maintaining 4-10°C (40-50°F). The seedlings are then overwintered in a cool greenhouse or cold frame with good ventilation. Seedlings can then be potted on as needed.
Another method is to start the seeds indoors in February, planting seeds sparsely in a few pots with sterilized seed starting mix. Dampen the mix, press the seeds into the surface, insert the pots into plastic bags, and put them in the freezer for two to seven days. Let them come to room temperature on their own, and then use bottom heat as indicated above.
This cousin of the onion is very easy to grow, but leeks are famously slow. They have the appearance of a single chive for what seems like months. After transplanting them outdoors, they advance a little, appearing like unenthusiastic scallions (spring onions). But by harvest time, the stems have thickened significantly, and many leaves have formed. Some leeks are bred for summer and fall harvest, and a few varieties are bred for winter harvest. Start summer and fall harvest leeks from early February to March in flats indoors. Wait to start winter harvest leeks from March to mid-June in a humus-rich nursery bed outside, and then transplant. The optimal soil temperature for leek seed germination is 10-25°C (50-75°F). The seeds should sprout in 10-16 days.
Here is a richly flavourful member of the grass family that is usually considered a herb because of how it is used. Lemongrass thrives in the tropics, but it benefits from a really early start in our temperate region. The best strategy is to give plants a healthy head start indoors under bright lights. As soon as it's warm enough in spring (nighttime temperatures must be consistently above 10°C (50°F)), the seedlings are transplanted into a warm growing area outdoors. As summer advances, the stems will thicken and the plants will eventually form hairy clumps to be harvested at the peak of the hot season. Technically lemongrass is a perennial, and a stubborn gardener might be able to lift plants for greenhouse growing over winter. The plants may slow to the point of dormancy, but this would make them even more productive in the warm seasons to follow. Otherwise, just treat it as an annual, and start with fresh seeds each winter.
Most onions are not fussy about timing, but they are all slow growers. Many breeds of sweet onions have been developed that form massive bulbs of 10 lbs or more, but these take special care. These competition-sized bulbs would need to be started no later than the first week in February. Use bottom heat to speed germination and then grow the seedlings on under bright artificial light to minimize legginess. After around six weeks, transplant individual onion seedlings into 8cm (3") pots filled with rich compost. Keep them in a warm, very bright location until around April before transplanting them to a cold frame. Give each onion lots of room to grow, and support its leaves with wire tomato cages or some similar structure. Giant sweet onions like Ailsa Craig and Kelsae can be grown on in individual five gallon containers or in warm soil with protection from harsh wind.
As with some of the other seeds discussed here, most strawberry seeds will have improved germination after vernalization. That's the process of planting them, covering the pots, and keeping them refrigerated for several weeks in order to simulate winter. Horticultural theory suggests that this aids in breaking the seeds' dormancy and may produce a higher germination rate and more uniform sprout development. Many growers have great success simply planting the seeds in moist seed starting mix under bright lights, but success may vary from seed lot to seed lot. Either way, for fruits to develop in the first year of growth, it's a good idea to start strawberry seeds from a really early start in January of February. The plants will grow from seeding at any time of year, but may not produce fruit until years two and three.
The category of perennial herbs that eventually develop woody stems includes oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme. These are all slow growing as seedlings. These are so slow that most greenhouse propagation is done by taking cuttings of adult plants and rooting them as clones. It's more economical to produce these herbs from seed, but the grower has to factor in quite a slow start. If bright artificial light is available, start these seeds at the beginning of February, or even earlier. It may be possible to gently harvest some of the leaves around the time they are transplanted out in mid-April to early May. But the early start will produce a stronger root system and sturdier stems by the time cold weather rolls around in the fall, and that gives the plants a much better chance of making it through winter.
Likizo imekwisha lakini hali ya hewa nje bado ni ya kuogopesha sana. Hapa kwenye pwani ni mvua kabisa <unk> ardhi ni soaked na squishy. Mahali pengine, theluji inanyesha, na ardhi inakuwa baridi sana. Ni wakulima wa majira ya baridi kali tu ambao bado wanafanya safari za kijani kibichi, vijia vya chini, au vitanda vilivyoinuliwa wakati huu wa mwaka; lakini mimea mingine ni polepole sana kuanza kwamba Januari ni wakati bora wa kuzalisha mbegu kwa mwaka mpya. Jua ni chini sana kwenye upeo wa macho, hivyo kuanza miche ya majira ya baridi inahitaji vifaa fulani, muhimu zaidi mwanga bandia. Kwa hivyo, kwa sababu ya hali ya hewa, mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea ya mimea. Mkataba huo unahusu eneo la pwani ya kusini mwa Uingereza, Visiwa vya Ghuba na Visiwa vya San Juan, na Kaskazini Magharibi mwa Pasifiki ya Marekani. Mimea iliyotajwa hapa inahitaji muda mwingi baada ya kupandikizwa kabla ya kukomaa na kutokeza maua au matunda. Ikiwa tarehe ya baridi kali ya mwisho ni mwishoni mwa Aprili badala ya mwishoni mwa Machi, tu kurekebisha mbele kwa mwezi mmoja. Kwa upande mwingine, ikiwa unaishi kaskazini ambapo msimu wa kukua ni mfupi na mkali, kuanza mbegu za mapema ndani ya nyumba itakuwa ufunguo wa mafanikio. Tafadhali angalia Chati zetu za Usimamizi wa Mkoa kwa mwongozo wa msingi juu ya kuanza mbegu katika mikoa tofauti. Kumbuka <unk> mazao mengi hukua haraka vya kutosha kwamba yanaweza kupandwa moja kwa moja baadaye sana wakati wa masika. Mimea mingi iliyoorodheshwa hapa ni ya kudumu au ya miaka miwili. Kuanza mapema sana kunaweza kusababisha maua katika mwaka wa kwanza wa ukuaji. Pia <unk> mbegu hizi zote zinaweza kuanzishwa baadaye katika mwaka. Hakuna sheria inayosema kwamba lazima zipandwe wakati wa majira ya baridi kali. Hebu tuchunguze kila moja kwa zamu. Mimea 10 ya kuanza Januari: Mbuzi huyu wa Aster anafaidika na kuanza mapema ndani ya nyumba kutoka Januari hadi Februari. Mbinu hii ni kuchochea maua katika mwaka wa kwanza. Artichokes zinaweza kuanzishwa baadaye zaidi katika mwaka, lakini hakuna mazao yatakayokuja hadi mwaka wa pili na zaidi. Weka mbegu za artichoke chini ya nuru nyangavu sana ili ziwe imara na zenye nguvu. Wakati wa kupandikiza ni muda mfupi baada ya tarehe ya baridi ya mwisho, ili miche iwe na kipindi cha masaa 250 chini ya 10 ° C. Kipindi hiki baridi huiga majira ya baridi kali kwa mimea, na husababisha kuanzishwa kwa maua katika msimu wa kwanza. Weka mbegu za kienyeji chini ya ulinzi ikiwa baridi kali inatarajiwa katika hatua hii muhimu. Mbinu ya mimea hii ya kudumu ni kuchochea ukuzi wenye nguvu katika taji la mizizi katika miaka ya kwanza ya ukuzi. Hilo huwezesha mimea hiyo kuwa yenye nguvu na yenye kudumu kwa miaka mingi ya uzalishaji. Tofauti na artichokes, kuanza mapema hakutakuwa na asparagus katika mwaka wa kwanza - alas, hata katika mwaka wa pili wa ukuzi! Katika miaka miwili ya kwanza, shina na majani huruhusiwa kukua na kukusanya nishati ambayo huhifadhiwa katika mfumo wa mizizi ya mmea wakati wa majira ya baridi kali. Katika mwaka wa tatu, ikiwa kila kitu kitakwenda kwa mpango, mimea ya asparagus inapaswa kuwa na nguvu ya kutosha kutuma shina nyingi kwa ajili ya kupanda. Mtu yeyote aliye na uzoefu wa kwanza wa asparagus anajua kwamba kusubiri huko kunastahili kila wakati. Asparagus safi, iliyokatwa nyumbani ni kitu cha ajabu sana. Kama ilivyo na artichokes, kuweka mapema kupandwa seedlings mkali sana kuangaza ili kuepuka ukuaji nyembamba na shina leggy. Maua haya (wote ni wanachama wa jenasi ya Aquilegia) ni mifano bora ya mimea ya kudumu ambayo, ikiwa imepandwa baadaye katika mwaka, inaweza kutozalisha maua katika mwaka wa kwanza wa ukuaji. Kwa mara nyingine tena, hiyo si jambo baya <unk> maua hatimaye itaonekana katika mwaka wa pili na kuendelea. Lakini kwa maua ya mwaka wa kwanza, mwanzo wa mapema ni muhimu. Mbegu za columbine za kupanda moja kwa moja wakati wowote kutoka vuli hadi katikati ya majira ya baridi kali. Mbegu inaweza kuanza ndani ya nyumba, lakini ni ngumu zaidi: Kupanda mbegu katika gorofa ya unyevu, sterilized mbegu kuanza mchanganyiko, na kuweka hizi ndani ya mifuko ya plastiki katika friji kwa wiki mbili hadi tatu. Kisha, weka vifuniko vya gorofa nje kwenye ardhi mahali penye kivuli, na vifunike kwa kioo au plastiki. Mimea inapoonekana, ipandikize au iweke ndani ya chungu. Kuota huchukua siku 30-90. Maua ya columbine hufuatwa na vichaka vya mbegu vinavyoonekana kuwa vya ajabu ambavyo huvunjika polepole vinapokauka wakati wa kiangazi. Vipande hivyo huwekwa wima, kwa hiyo ni rahisi sana kuhifadhi mbegu zilizo ndani ya vichaka hivyo ili vitupwe baadaye. Mimea ya kila mwaka kama vile foxglove (na kwa kweli, beets na karoti) kwa kawaida huweka ukuaji wa majani katika mwaka wa kwanza, na kuhifadhi nishati yao katika aina fulani ya mizizi ya pua iliyofurika. Baada ya majira ya baridi kali ya kwanza, mmea hutumia nishati hiyo kuota ili kuota maua na kuzaa mbegu. Mimea ya kila mwaka ina maua ya ajabu na mbegu nyingi ambazo ni vigumu kuzalisha kwa mwaka mmoja tu. Kwa ajili ya maua ya mwaka wa kwanza, kupanda foxgloves ndani ya nyumba mapema sana, katika Desemba au Januari. Panda wiki mbili hadi tatu kabla ya baridi kali ya mwisho. Mbegu hizo zinaweza kuchukua siku 14-21 ili kuchipuka. Kwa hivyo, ikiwa unaanza ndani ya nyumba, toa mwanga mkali na joto la udongo la 15-18 ° C. Mti huu unaozaliwa mara nyingi unafanana na mmea wa columbine kwa sababu huenda usifanye maua mwaka wa kwanza baada ya kupandwa katika majira ya kuchipua. Lavender ni mimea ya kudumu ambayo huendelea kukua kwa muda mrefu na inaonekana kuota kwa wingi zaidi kutoka mwaka mmoja hadi mwingine. Mti huo huhifadhi majani yake wakati wa majira ya baridi kali, tofauti na mti wa columbine, ambao hufa na kurudi kwenye ardhi. Mbegu za lavender huchanua kwa usawa zaidi ikiwa mbegu zinaweza kukusanywa wakati wa vuli na kupandwa kwenye uso wa tray ya mbegu na joto la chini linalohifadhiwa 4-10 ° C. Kisha miche hiyo huhifadhiwa katika chumba chenye baridi kali au chenye hewa baridi na yenye hewa nzuri. Kisha mbegu zaweza kuwekwa kwenye chungu kadiri inavyohitajika. Njia nyingine ni kuanza mbegu ndani ya nyumba mwezi Februari, kupanda mbegu sparsely katika sufuria chache na sterilized mbegu kuanzia mchanganyiko. Kuongeza maji, kuingiza mbegu kwenye sufuria, na kuweka katika friji kwa siku mbili hadi saba. Acha iwe joto la chumba peke yake, kisha tumia joto la chini kama ilivyoelezwa hapo juu. Ndugu hii ya vitunguu ni rahisi sana kukuza, lakini vitunguu ni maarufu kwa kuwa ni polepole. Wao huonekana kama chivi kimoja kwa muda unaoonekana kuwa miezi mingi. Baada ya kupandwa nje, huendelea kidogo, zikiwa kama vitunguu visivyo na shauku. Lakini kufikia wakati wa kuvuna, shina limekuwa nene sana, na majani mengi yametokea. Baadhi ya aina hizo hufugwa kwa ajili ya mavuno ya majira ya kiangazi na majira ya kupukutika kwa majani, na aina nyingine hufugwa kwa ajili ya mavuno ya majira ya baridi kali. Kuanza majira ya joto na kuanguka mavuno leeks kutoka mapema Februari hadi Machi katika ghorofa ndani ya nyumba. Kwa hivyo, kwa sababu ya hali ya hewa, unaweza kuanza kuvuna pores za majira ya baridi kutoka Machi hadi katikati ya Juni katika kitanda cha watoto kilicho na humus, kisha uhamishe. Joto bora kwa ajili ya mbegu za mchuzi ni 10-25 ° C. Mbegu hizo zinapaswa kuchipuka baada ya siku 10 hadi 16. Mti huu ni wa aina ya nyasi na kwa kawaida huitwa mimea kwa sababu ya jinsi unavyotumiwa. Nyasi ya limao huendelea kukua katika maeneo ya kitropiki, lakini inanufaika kutokana na kuanza mapema sana katika eneo letu lenye hali ya joto. Njia bora ni kuwapa mimea nafasi nzuri ya kuanza ndani ya nyumba chini ya taa nyangavu. Mara tu inapokuwa joto la kutosha wakati wa majira ya kuchipua (hisa za joto usiku lazima ziwe juu ya 10 ° C), mbegu hupandikizwa kwenye eneo la joto la kukua nje. Wakati wa majira ya joto, shina la mmea huongezeka, na mimea hiyo hufanyiza makundi yenye nywele ambayo hukusanywa wakati wa majira ya joto. Kwa kweli, nyasi ya limao ni mimea ya kudumu, na huenda mtunza-bustani mwenye ukaidi akaweza kuinua mimea kwa ajili ya kulima katika nyumba za kijani-kibichi wakati wa majira ya baridi kali. Mimea inaweza kupunguza kasi hadi kufikia hatua ya usingizi, lakini hii itaifanya iwe na uzalishaji zaidi katika misimu ya joto inayofuata. Vinginevyo, chukua mimea hiyo kama mimea ya kila mwaka, na uanze kwa mbegu mpya kila majira ya baridi kali. Vitunguu vingi havipendi sana wakati unaofaa, lakini vyote hukua polepole. Aina nyingi za vitunguu vimeundwa na kuunda bulbs kubwa ya 10 lbs au zaidi, lakini hizi kuchukua tahadhari maalum. Matofali haya ya ukubwa wa mashindano yanahitaji kuanzishwa kabla ya wiki ya kwanza ya Februari. Tumia joto la chini ili kuharakisha kuota na kisha kukua miche chini ya mwanga mkali wa bandia ili kupunguza miguu. Baada ya wiki sita, kupandikiza mbegu ya vitunguu katika sufuria 8cm (3") kujazwa na mbolea tajiri. Weka kwenye mahali pa joto na mahali penye mwangaza hadi Aprili kabla ya kuipandikiza kwenye chumba cha baridi. Mpe kila vitunguu nafasi ya kukua, na utumie majani yake kwenye ngome za nyanya za waya au kwenye kitu kingine kama hicho. Vitunguu vya aina ya Ailsa, Craig na Kelsae vinaweza kukua katika chungu cha lita tano au katika udongo wa joto na kuhifadhiwa dhidi ya upepo mkali. Kama ilivyo na baadhi ya mbegu nyingine zilizozungumziwa hapa, mbegu nyingi za jordgubbar zitakuwa na ukuaji wa kupanda baada ya vernalization. Mimea hiyo hupandwa, kufunikwa, na kuhifadhiwa kwenye friji kwa wiki kadhaa ili kuiga majira ya baridi kali. Nadharia ya kilimo cha bustani inaonyesha kwamba hii husaidia kuvunja usingizi wa mbegu na inaweza kuzalisha kiwango cha juu cha kuota na maendeleo ya mimea ya usawa zaidi. Wanakulima wengi wana mafanikio makubwa kwa kupanda mbegu katika mchanganyiko wa mbegu yenye unyevunyevu chini ya taa kali, lakini mafanikio yanaweza kutofautiana kutoka kwa mbegu hadi mbegu. Kwa hivyo, kwa matunda ya mwaka wa kwanza ya ukuaji, ni wazo nzuri kuanza mbegu za strawberry mapema Januari. Mimea hiyo hukua kutokana na mbegu wakati wowote wa mwaka, lakini huenda isizaa matunda hadi miaka ya pili na ya tatu. Jamii ya mimea ya kudumu ambayo hatimaye hupata shina lenye mbao inatia ndani oregano, rosemary, sage, na thyme. Hizi zote hukua polepole zikiwa miche. Mimea hii ni ya polepole sana hivi kwamba kueneza kwa njia ya chafu hufanywa kwa kuchukua vipande vya mimea mikubwa na kuizalisha kama mimea ya kawaida. Ni rahisi zaidi kuzalisha mimea hii kutoka kwa mbegu, lakini mkulima lazima afikirie mwanzo wa polepole. Ikiwa kuna mwanga mkali wa bandia, mbegu hizo zaweza kupandwa mwanzoni mwa Februari, au hata mapema zaidi. Inawezekana kuvuna majani kwa upole wakati wa kupandikizwa katikati ya Aprili hadi mapema Mei. Kuanza mapema kwa mimea itatoa mfumo wa mizizi na shina lenye nguvu wakati hali ya hewa ya baridi inapoanza kuanguka, na hiyo inatoa nafasi nzuri ya kufanikiwa katika majira ya baridi.