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Prepare for some more '90s nostalgia. The Witches—the 1990 adaption of the beloved Roald Dahl book, starring the equally beloved Anjelica Huston—is slated for a remake. Below, everything we know so far about the upcoming movie.
The first trailer and preview photos have landed.
At long last, fans are getting a look at Anne Hathaway, Octavia Spencer, Stanley Tucci, and more in character. The short preview also sets up the familiar story: witches are real, they hate children, and are not above turning said children into mice. Watch the trailer in full above, and check out the photos below.
Octavia Spencer has signed on to the production.
The Witches follows a young boy who meets witches while staying with his grandmother—and it looks like Spencer is set to play that grandmother. Variety first reported the news about Spencer, and threw in another juicy tidbit: Black-ish creator Kenya Barris will co-write the script with director Robert Zemeckis.
Anne Hathway will play the lead role.
Hathaway (the subject of our current cover story!) is signed on for the part of the Grand High Witch. Variety previously reported that she was tentatively attached to both The Witches and a Sesame Street movie, which had overlapping production timelines—but it seems that things were rearranged to accommodate Hathaway's schedule.
Hathaway is no stranger to magical roles. Early in her career, she played the titular character in the adaptation of the children's book Ella Enchanted; in more recent years, she had a turn as the White Queen in Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland.
Robert Zemeckis, of Forrest Gump and Back to the Future fame, will direct.
Zemeckis reportedly wants to take the film in a different direction than its 1990 predecessor. Per Variety, the original was a "loose adaptation," and the new movie will be "more rooted in the original source material." As he's also set to write the script, Zemeckis will have full control over the contours of the plot.
There are some superstar producers in the mix.
Alongside Zemeckis's partner at ImageMovers, Jack Rapke, two Hollywood darlings will be involved in the production: Alfonso Cuarón and Guillermo del Toro.
Chloe is a News Writer for Townandcountrymag.com, where she covers royal news, from the latest additions to Meghan Markle's staff to Queen Elizabeth's monochrome fashions; she also writes about culture, often dissecting TV shows like The Marvelous Mrs Maisel and Killing Eve.


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Oxford overcame a raucous home crowd and a spirited Cambridge team to win the 106th Varsity Boxing match 6-3 and retain the Truelove bowl at the Cambridge Corn Exchange last Saturday. With the running score of 51-50 in favour of Cambridge heading into this historic boxing match, it proved to be a grudge match from start to finish.
After the two supporting bouts, won by Cambridge's Daphne Tsalli and Jamie O'Neill, the atmosphere reached fever pitch when Nick Melgaard started the first bout of the evening in the featherweight category. The fever pitch was such that the host of the match requested the home crowd to refrain from jeering at the Oxford boxers.
Oxford's Michael Davis had the better start against Melgaard, aiming a flurry of jabs at the startled Light Blue and connecting on a few of them. As the bout wore on, Melgaard tried to fight back with some desperate hooks but Davis was unrelenting. It was no surprise that the judges awarded a unanimous decision to Davis. The home crowd was silenced. Matters did not improve for Cambridge in the second bout between fresher Stefan Lavelle and Oxford's James Watson. Watson's experience was evident when his punches prompted the referee to stop the contest and left the Light Blues trailing 0-2.
Knowing that Cambridge could not afford to trail 0-3, Xiaofeng Li entered the ring on a mission against Oxford captain Tom Eliasz. Both boxers displayed breathtaking speed and raw power that had the crowd on their feet on numerous occasions. The cagey affair then swung in Cambridge's favour when Li increased his pace in the third round that left Eliasz visibly stunned. The venue erupted when Li was awarded a majority decision by the judges to score the first victory for the home team.
Light Blue Sebastian Pender was up next against Conor Husbands. The bout was evenly matched until the second round when the referee momentarily stopped the fight and had the medical team check Pender. Cambridge's worst fears were met when Husbands' relentless jabs forced the referee to award the bout to the Dark Blue. Heading into the interval, Cambridge were 1-3 down.
The urgency from trailing the match was not lost on Cambridge's Will Nyerere-Plastow when the fight resumed. Although his opponent Dan Bailey took the initiative, the Light Blue soaked up the pressure and fought back with clean punches that drew loud cheers. By the end of the fight, Nyerere-Plastow was on the ascendancy and the judges duly obliged with a unanimous decision.
Chants of Light Blues captain Borna Guevel's name were deafening by the time he stepped into the ring against Zachariah Sammour. However, the unfazed Sammour fought strongly and even had Guevel on the ground momentarily. The Cambridge captain tried to fight back but he was barely hanging on. The judges unsurprisingly awarded Sammour a deserved unanimous decision.
With Oxford needing only one more victory with the score at 4-2, Cambridge's William Wakeford reenergized a subdued crowd with an aggressive start. It proved too much for Oxford's Iain Holland when he even tried to wrestle Wakeford to the ground, which drew whistles from the crowd. In the end, the Light Blue was awarded a majority decision to raise hopes of a comeback.
Light Blue Tinashe Murozoki was tasked with keeping the Varsity match alive and he immediately took the fight to Oxford's Harry Miller. Ducking low frequently in brilliant defence, Murozoki connected a few punches on offence as well. However, Miller's aggression ultimately impressed the judges and the Dark Blue was awarded a majority decision. Murozoki was left shattered as the Oxford camp erupted with joy as they have built an insurmountable lead to win the 106th Varsity match.
As the disappointed home crowd started to file out, Oxford's Laurent Kotch wrapped up the match when his heavy jabs left CUABC's Dan Fountain unable to continue. The disappointing evening for the Light Blues was summed up when captain Guevel had to present the Truelove bowl to the jubilant Dark Blues.
With this impressive away victory, Oxford tied the running score of this historic boxing match at 51-51. It was a tough loss for the Light Blues but they can hold their heads high with their admirable performance.
Gerald Wu

subset: commoncrawl


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Apparently Jeep (FCA) thinks it's a Jeep!!! I had previously posed the question of what makes a jeep, a Jeep? That post was met with mixed reviews, however according to autoweek.com, Jeep (FCA) seems to think that the Roxor is a Jeep!!!
Click here for the complete article from Autoweek…
Jeep (FCA) is trying to invoke the "Trade Dress" clause. Trade dress, according to Wikipedia is:
"a legal term of art that generally refers to characteristics of the visual appearance of a product or its packaging (or even the design of a building) that signify the source of the product to consumers.[1] Trade dress is a form of intellectual property."
For the price of a JL Rubicon, I would seriously consider going with a JL Sport, then buying a Roxor with a tow bar, and probably still be money ahead!!!
In a twist of fate, Mahindra North America was able to secure a spot on the main floor of the 2019 North American International Auto Show that opens this week!!!
View this post on Instagram
#Repost @mahindraautona ・・・ Tomorrow, the doors will open for the North American International Auto Show. Mahindra Automotive North America will participate with a main floor display in the 30th Anniversary of the NAIAS. Here's a sneak peak of our display! @naiasdetroit @mahindraautona @roxoroffroad @mahindra.marazzo @ridegenze #NAIAS2019 #NAIAS #DetroitAutoShow #Mahindra #MANA #ROXOR #ROXOROffRoad #MahindraMarazzo #Marazzo #GenZe
I don't know much about trade dress, however I am going to consider the Roxor to be like a Jeep, in the same vein in which I consider the HMMWV/HUMMER to be like a Jeep!!!
Ultimately, I believe that Jeep (FCA) will lose the argument, just as Jeep (DaimlerChrysler)did in 2002, as reported in the Toledo Blade.
Click here to read: "Appeals court rules in favor of GM in HUMMER grille fight"
I look forward to the Detroit Auto Show each and every year, and am especially looking forward to this years show to compare the Jeep, and the Roxor side by side!!!
See you at the show!!!


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This is the third season for this garden and it's filling in nicely!
If I can grow these in a fairly dry spot next to a spruce tree, they should do well just about anywhere in Calgary! The more sun the better, though:
To see this garden at other times of the year, click here and scroll down.
Above: view of the front Entry Garden from the living room window -designed for sitting pleasure in summer and viewing pleasure in winter!
On days like today, I'm very happy with the fact that I designed my garden to look interesting in winter as well as summer, in particular from inside the house! Here's the front entry garden with morning light making the feather reed grass glow. I enjoy this view from my living room with my morning coffee. :-)
Do you have a favourite winter view of your garden?
Do you plant flowers to co-ordinate with your house??
You should!!
To see this garden area at other times of the year, click here and scroll down.
This is only the second year for my Front Entry Garden and I am quite happy with how it is filling in! And I really like how the red flowers pop against all that green background. What's blooming now: red campion (maltese cross) and poppies, white mockorange, perennial geranium and shasta daisies, blue centaurea montana (perennial bachelor's button) and delphiniums. There's also a new, salmon-coloured "red valerian" I got this spring that has been blooming for MONTHS but I'm not sure yet if it's hardy here.
Note: someday there will be a patio under those chairs!!
To see the evolution of this garden and what is blooming at other times of the year, click here and scroll down.
Do you leave your garden furniture out in the winter? I must confess, I do even though I know it's not good for it. I like how these chairs look covered in their white pillows of snow - whenever I walk by or see them out the living room window, they remind my of summer days when I enjoy sitting out here with my morning coffee.
Those days seem so far away at the moment, don't they? What do you do to stay sane in January?
I sure am enjoying the colourful view of my neighbour's crabapple, mountain ash tree and dogwood shrubs at the moment! I planted my own little Saskatoon shrubs this year which will add to the fall colour in a few years when they get to a more substantial size.
But while I am enjoying the beautiful colours, I am already scheming about what to do with those leaves after they've fallen. Each year at this time I wish I owned a shredder so I could chop them all up into little bits which would make even better mulch for the garden. But each year at this time I have already more than blown my gardening budget for the year. So I do not yet own a mulcher.
The leaves I do have, I rake onto the garden for the winter. I also check the local leaf drop off regularly and sometimes manage to snag some pre-chopped leaves to put on the garden! If not, I choose bags of small, curly leaves such as birch, which make better winter mulch than big flat leaves like poplar.
In any case, I certainly do not get rid of my own leaves! They are extremely useful for winter mulch and for adding nutrients to the garden. You may think you are being a good environmental citizen by taking your leaves to the drop off, but leaving them in the garden has a zero footprint and provides nutrients for your soil. So don't bag 'em unless you want to make leaf mold!
You can read about leaf mold and how I first got hooked on stealing leaves here:
What did you do with your extra hour? ... and how to make leaf mold in a bag.
And read more about the benefit of leaves on the garden here:
After the Party's Over on Garden Buzz
So the plants are all in and I'm pretty happy with the layout of this new garden area. I hope next year I'll actually get the darned patio put in!! I'm also considering a container pond instead of the bird bath... wouldn't that be lovely?!?
It looks a bit of a mish-mash at the moment because the annuals I put in to help fill the space are bigger than most of the new shrubs and perennials by this time of year. But that's what I love about gardening - I always know that next year will look even better!
This garden area up beside the front steps is all new this year. Eventually, shrubs and perennials will dominate the garden, but for this year, I planted some large annuals (from seed) to fill the space while the shrubs and perennials are still small. They're doing a great job, I'd say! Too bad there is snow forecast for this week...
Above: nicotiana sylvestris behind love-lies-bleeding (another annual) and helenium 'Mardi Gras' (perennial).
Pretty soon the flowers will be gone but I'll be enjoying the memories all winter! I am especially happy about my new view of the garden from inside the house:
and even though the nictotiana will be cut down after frost/snow, I'll be able to enjoy the view of the grasses all winter long.
Garden views from inside the house are such an important consideration when designing a garden - especially in Calgary when we're typically look out from inside for at least half the year! Here's what this view looked like last year before and after I took down 2 spruce trees from this area - what a difference!
To see how this garden looks at other times of the year, click here and scroll down.
Have you been to the perennial gardens at the zoo? They are a great place to get both design and plant ideas as they are well landscaped, have a wide selection of hardy perennial plants, and almost all plants are labelled. I was there in July and found myself paying close attention to the orange and blue-flowering plants as I am still looking for a few more plants to fill up my new front entry garden with a blue-green-orange-red colour scheme. Here are my notes:
Above: When you're looking for orange, even these common orange daylilies suddenly look very attractive, especially when planted in gigantic drifts like this! Paula, if you're reading this, your orange daylilies are doing just fine, although not quite this impressive since they were just transplanted this spring!
Above: Golden-orange helenium 'Mardi Gras' is the Calgary Horticultural Society's "Perennial of the Year" - so of course, I must get some and try it in my garden!
Above: Anchusa azurea (alkanet) 'Feltham Pride Strain' is in the borage family so of course, boasts true blue flowers and bees love it. It is not the most elegant-looking plant but true blue flowers are hard to find so I think I might give this plant a shot. I'll be looking for seeds next spring.
Above: Gentiana septemfida (summer gentian) is another plant with true blue flowers. I actually have this plant already in my garden, but it was a gift and I wasn't sure what kind of gentian it was. Thanks to the plant labels at the zoo, now I know!
Above: This groundcover mix of Anagallis monelli (pimpernel) 'Angie Blue' and 'Angie Orange' also caught my eye but they are annuals and too short to work in my garden. But maybe I'll try them in pots - their colours are fantastic!
Above: And finally, this meadow-like planting of thyme punctuated with spikes of bearded iris was so gorgeous that I didn't care that it wasn't blue & orange. If I had just one more area in my yard where I could make more garden space I'd be tempted to try this!!
Alas, I do not have the space. Do you?
I've never taken a picture of the house and garden from this view before, as up until last winter, there were two big spruce trees in the way and you couldn't see a thing! Now, behind this pretty and extremely sweet-smelling mock orange shrub, there is a brand new garden. Preparing and planting this garden has occupied most of my gardening time so far this season. Frankly, I think I've already used up my gardening energy for the year!
Here it is from another view. I know it doesn't look like much yet. We gardeners (at least, those of us on a budget) must learn to be patient! The shrubs I've put in are teeny but will eventually help screen the veiw of the neighbour's house. The perennials are still small so there are large spaces between them - but I always tell people that planting perennials the proper distance apart will save time and energy later on, as they won't need to be moved when they get too crowded in only a few years. Plus, of course, you save money on not buying too many plants.
I was hoping to do the patio this year as well (roughly outlined by bricks at the moment) but at this point, after all that work and all this heat, I'm not feeling like doing much of anything. Perhaps in September I'll have the energy and motivation!
Yes, I realize that putting the patio in after the plantings is the complete backwards way of doing things and I wouldn't actually recommend that to anyone else! But I wanted to get those plants in ASAP to they start growing and maturing. It's all about the plants, for me! And since I'll be doing the patio myself there won't be any big machines needing to get in here. Besides, I'm just tired of this area being such an ugly, barren space - this is what it looked like last year:
It ain't a pretty picture, but I thought I should at least show you what I've been up to these last few weeks as I've been neglecting this blog! Apologies, by the way!
Taking down two gigantic spruce trees leaves one with a BIG, MESSY area to deal with, not to mention I'm still removing red shale mulch (the bane of my existence) from this area. But things are starting to come together in a few spots. I really wanted to get the majority of my planting done in May so that everything would have plenty of time to start filling in this summer (I hope to get to actually putting a patio in later this summer, too!)
I know it doesn't look like much yet, but once my neighbour's dogwoods leaf out, once the plants get a little larger, once I put some down some compost for mulch (I already put some in each planting hole) so that the soil doesn't look light brown from all the wood shavings left from taking down the trees, I promise you, it will be better! Oh, and BTW, the bamboo teepees are to keep the hares away from a few choice plants until the plants are big enough to handle a little munching.
The colour scheme for this garden will be primarily, red, orange, white and blue. Plants have to like sun, be hardy and drought-tolerant, and generally not need to be fussed over. Things planted so far:
Here are some more notes on how I designed the garden.
While there was nothing I wanted more than to take down those two giant spruce trees in my front yard, that doesn't mean I'm done. Nope, I plan to put in native, low-maintenance shrubs and drought-tolerant perennials to fill the space! The stumps haven't even been ground out yet but I've been busy planning already.
But how to plan a garden that is seen from multiple views? This garden will be viewed from about 270o and that makes for a big challenge. Plus there are specific purposes that must be achieved. The neighbour's house and the rain barrels need to be screened from view as you come up the front walk. The trucks parked on the street need to be screened from the living room window. You get the idea. For these reasons, getting the placement of trees and shrubs right is key.
So I was outside on the week-end, moving cut pieces of tree trunk around to mark out where I wanted to plant trees and shrubs, then standing back and viewing the stumps from multiple directions, to get their placement just right. It is a very helpful trick! For markers, pots or anything easily visible from a short distance would also work. And then of course, you can take pictures and draw on them to help visualize the end result:
Above: As you come up the walk, a large juniper and several Saskatoon shrubs will help screen your view of the neighbour's house. A nannyberry shrub will be planted in the shadier corner to help hide the rain barrels. Ah, that's better!
Above: As you get closer to the front steps, or as you come around the path from the other side of the house, those same Saskatoon shrubs will provide a backdrop for the little sitting area and birdbath.
Above: And those same shrubs will also help screen the view of the street from inside the house. Some blue oat grass will also provide some eye-catching colour and texture to distract your eye from the street.
Okay. Now I'm dying for spring.
It is done. It is finally done! After of years of living on a jungly, overgrown lot, I have finally reduced the number of extra-large spruce trees in my yard to a reasonable number of 5 (from 15!!! Can you believe it?!?) It took 8 years of convincing my husband, not to mention saving up as there have been many other priorities over the years on this fixer-upper of a lot, and taking down trees this big ain't cheap. And no, I don't feel guilty.
It is not immediately obvious from the street, but if you take a close look at the picture below, you might notice that the right-hand corner of the house seems to be a bit brighter than in previous views...
...that's because the two former spruce trees in that corner have finally been removed. When you come up the walk toward the house and round the corner around the right-hand spruce tree, this is the new view:
Yikes!! Okay, it ain't pretty at the moment. I will definitely be planting more shrubs, including smaller evergreens, which will eventually help screen the view of the neighbour's house looming over us. But look at all that space! Just imagine the possibilities! Oh, I've got big plans, baby. Native shrubs, drought-tolerant, bee- and butterfly-attracting perennials, sweetly-scented flowers, and more.
And despite the current barren appearance, it really is so much better than before... I have a view of the neighbour's beautiful crabapple and mountain ash trees now:
...and I can actually see sky from inside the house!
Hooray. Now only 3 more months until I can start planting...
Do you have a colour scheme for your garden? In general, I have not bothered with this in the past. For example, I've stuck to warm colours in the Butterfly Potager, to give it a close, more intimate feel, and cool colours in the Adventure Garden, to make it look bigger, but that's about the extent of my colour adventures. I just find it way too hard to control myself when it comes to sticking to specific colours in my own garden, and instead I tend to focus on textures, using plants that suit the spot in terms of light and moisture requirements only.
But, I admit, a colour scheme can really tie things together and take your garden up a notch. So, after taking a 'Colour Theory for Gardeners' class last spring with Sue Gaviller, who I also had over to consult on my garden, I was convinced to give it a shot in the front garden. She used my garden as an example in her class, and put together the figure above to show the colour scheme she devised. What do you think? But wait, let me back up and give you the background:
Her first reaction, after coming over and seeing my blue house, and the towering blue-green Colorado spruce trees in the front yard, was "You need more green!" Green is considered a neutral in gardening colour schemes because your eye expects to see it. And it is a wonderful, restful colour. But what with the house and trees, and no lawn, I had shockingly little green in my front garden. Sue suggested sweeps of 'Calgary Carpet' junipers and lots of dogwoods to provide the restful green colour.
As for colour combinations, finding one for my front garden was rather difficult owing to the existing blue and red of the house, and the existing blue-green of the spruce trees. These colours do not fit into a traditional colour scheme (eg. complementary colours, triad, tetrad, split-complementary, etc.) So, Sue got creative and used the Munsell colour circle (with 10 hues, rather than the more commonly used artist's colour wheel which has 12 hues) to come up with a double complementary colour scheme of blue, blue-green, red, and orange (shown above.)
To demonstrate, she included the following plants in the figure above (left to right, top to bottom): my own Colorado spruce, dogwood 'Arctic Fire', ninebark 'Coppertina', heavy metal switchgrass, globe blue spruce, heuchera 'Peach Melba' or 'Southern Comfort', blue chip juniper, hosta 'Halcyon', blue oat grass, heuchera 'Mahogany', echinacea 'Tomato Soup', daylily 'Strawberry Candy', corydalis 'Blue Panda', heucherella 'Sweet Tea', and Kinnikinnick in the background of the bottom corner. Of course, there are many other perennials that would work as well.
I think it looks great. I'd add some white as well, to make sure things don't look too heavy, but otherwise I love it! But the question remains, can I discipline myself enough to stick to it? Well, first of all, I'm not going to just take out all of my existing plants and start from scratch - too expensive, and, well, I'm just too attached to some of them. So I'm going to start slowly by moving some of the big clashers to other areas of the garden and by making sure any new plants I add fit into the new colour scheme. Another reason I'm going to take it slowly is that I'm not totally convinced that I want every single plant to fit the colour scheme perfectly - I prefer a more natural look that says "this plant wanted to be here" rather than a highly designed look that says "the designer wanted this plant to be here". Maybe I'm just not sophisticated enough in my tastes yet. So it will be interesting to see how my tastes change (if they change) as I start to modify the existing garden.
For example, in this picture above from last summer, you can see I'd already added a small ninebark 'Coppertina' out front, which relates really well with the reddish-brown on the house. But the purplish-blue of the catmint... not so much. When you compare this garden photo with the colour scheme figure, top, it is obvious the catmint clashes. Dang! That's one of my favourite plants!!
This is going to be hard.
I complain about my excessive number of spruce trees a lot, but I haven't complained about the accompanying red shale mulch recently. Since moving into my fixer-upper of a house and yard almost 8 years ago, I have dug and removed countless wheelbarrows of the stuff. Someone, about 40 years ago or so, thought it was a great idea to plant a gazillion spruce trees and cover half the yard with a thick mulch of red shale. They did a very good job of it, too. No scrimping on the red shale mulch happened on this property. No sirree.
So, after shoveling and moving around another 20 wheelbarrow loads of shale mixed with spruce needles yesterday, I am feeling the urge to vent again.
Above: here's the spot, viewed from my front steps, where I dug out the shale yesterday. My husband took the kids out for a few hours, and I probably should have been cleaning bathrooms or putting the Christmas decorations away, but it was nice outside! So I got out the shovel and wheelbarrow, of course.
I needed to move at least a little of this mulch out of the way because Adair Tree Care Ltd. is coming in a few weeks to take down the two trees shown (Hurrray!!!!) and I needed to move enough that they could use their stump grinder - the shale went right up to the base of the trees. It is hard to see in the photo above because there is little colour contrast between the soil, pink mulch, and surrounding bark mulch, but if you look closely you can just make out the dusty, pink edges of the landscaping fabric.
Above: As you can see, the area beneath these trees is a barren wasteland even during the growing season. This spring I'll be busy replacing those trees with shrubs, ornamental grasses, and perennials... after I finish removing the rest of the red shale, of course (I've only done about half so far.)
"How is it possible," you might ask, "that you could get out and dig in the middle of January in Calgary? I know it's chinooking right now, but isn't the ground still frozen?"
"It is possible," I would answer, "because no moisture ever falls beneath those d*^&m trees. The ground isn't frozen there because there is nothing in the ground to actually freeze! Nothing but freakin' dust, spruce needles, and red shale mulch. Gawd am I glad to be finally getting rid of those trees."
"And what did you do," you might wonder, "with the mulch you dug up?"
"For lack of any other place," I would answer, "I spread it around underneath all my other spruce trees!"
Related posts:
My front entry garden has been in a state of transition all year. Back in spring I dug up the existing garden and laid these bricks out temporarily to see how the layout would feel. After one season I am very happy with it - the chairs are in a sunny spot for morning coffee and have been well-used despite the unattractive dirt-pit they currently rest on. Next year I hope to put in a permanent patio using recycled bricks.
I spent some time last year coming up with a new plan for the front garden (posted here), but after I had Sue Gaviller help me with the backyard design, she gave me some good ideas for the front, too, some of which you can see I have already started to implement. That's her drawing, above. Here is what she suggested and why:
As is a recurring theme in my garden, I have to get rid of a few more trees before I can make all this happen. It is not obvious from the usual views I post of the front yard, but I actually have 4 spruce trees here (used to be 5!), not just 2. The other two, as you can see in the view above, are too close to the house, too close together, very spindly, and ugly. They've already been limbed up (lower branches cut off) otherwise I wouldn't even have a front yard at all and I wouldn't be able to see out my living room windows. It is impossible to grow anything near these trees and you can see I am not even trying to at the moment - there is nothing but bare mulch in this area.
I have been taking down a tree or two every couple of years in my very overgrown, mature yard. I can't get rid of them any faster due to the cost (they are huge!) and a husband who is very resistant to taking down trees even if they are ugly and planted in an inappropriate spot. But I can't live with these 2 ugly trees much longer. (Bonus: the neighbour has beautiful trees and getting rid of my 2 spruce will open up the view to his beautiful, mature crabapple and mountain ash trees!)
Winter project: convince hubby these 2 trees have to go by spring. And no, I don't feel guilty about it!
PS Those snowflakes on the window in the top photo are left over from a Narnia birthday party we had a month ago. The kids don't want to take them down. What can I say, this is a reality garden blog! No professional photo-staging going on here!
Purple monkshood has been blooming for weeks, a new orange fleeceflower looks a little wonky but should fill in, and white Annabelle hydrangea is just starting to bloom. Annabelle does perfectly well in its sheltered, shady, east-facing location next to my house, although I have heard of some people having trouble with it in Calgary.
To see the history of this garden and what it looks like at other times of the year, click here.
It appears that I have two different varieties of purple aconitum (monkshood) in the garden to the right of the steps - one is tall and blooming, the other is shorter and doesn't have any buds on it yet. There are supposed to be three in front of the chimney and two to the right of the railing, below, but you can't tell, can you? Note to self - re-arrange them next spring and put the three tall ones in front of the chimney. And only one more chance - if the short ones don't bloom next year, they're out.
To see this garden at other times of the year and how it has evolved. click here.
There's not much new happening here since I showed you the outline for the new patio a few weeks ago. And as usual I have way too many projects on the go so for this garden, nothing else is going to happen until next year, I'm afraid. So...
... thank goodness for pots! I started that blue scabiosa 'Jasione Laevis' from seed last spring and have been nursing it along in containers and overwintered it in the veggie garden. This fall it will find a home somewhere in the front garden. Have I mentioned recently that I love blue?
As you walk through the Welcome Garden on the way to the front door, you will come to a new (unfinished) seating area on the right hand side:
... This is the change I was referring to in my last post. Nothing was growing well in this area anyway due to the 4 large spruce trees surrounding it, so I've spent the last couple of weeks digging up the plants that used to be where the chairs are, and temporarily marking out the new overlapping circle design with bricks. This will actually become a brick patio at some point (next year, hopefully) but for now I just wanted to outline the area to make sure I was happy with size and placement. What do you think? Here's a look from another view:
To see how this garden area has progressed over time, click here and scroll down.
Check back over the next few days as I post pictures of other areas of my garden as well.
From the bricks I've temporarily laid out, you can see something major is going to happen here... more soon!
To see pictures of other areas of my garden at this time of year, please see:
After I posted that series of pictures of how my front Welcome Garden looked in 2010, I felt very dissatisfied. In fact, I almost didn't post them! Yes, I was sure to use caveats such as "this is a work in progress", this is an "experimental garden", "I don't baby this garden" and "this is only its second season and it still needs to fill in", but still, I felt this garden is not all it could be or should be. Time to plan a renovation!
Above: I'm actually fairly happy with the garden area close to the sidewalk, although it does need another couple of years to fill in. However, the area in the centre of the yard and directly in front of the steps needs help. Big time.
I actually consider it to be a skill to view a garden and be able to see what it will look like in a couple of years. This prevents you from planting too many plants too closely and then having to move them all in a couple of years when they reach a more mature size. (This is a skill you don't learn in a couple of hours BTW, but it comes with experience or a garden coach can help you with that if you are planning or renovating a garden.) But in my own garden this sometimes makes me a little blind to what the garden really looks like RIGHT NOW. I tend to view it through rose-coloured glasses which make all the plants look like the full-sized, lush, healthy specimens that I expect them to be in a few years. Photos on the other hand, or at least my photos which I didn't crop or alter, show the naked truth. This garden lacks an overall plan.
To be fair, I am dealing with someone else's mistakes (planting 5 large spruce trees in a small front yard? What were they thinking?) And I'm also developing the garden myself on a very limited budget of time and money - this includes the tree-removal budget! But parts of the front yard developed in stages over the last 7 years with no real plan and it kinda shows.
Above: I first broke ground almost 7 years ago with this small bed. I needed a place to plunk plants that I was bringing from my old house. Over the years some things have survived and some have not thanks to the competition from surrounding spruce trees and my general if-the-plant-doesn't-grow-with-minimum-care-it-doesn't-deserve-to-be-in-my-garden attitude.
But really, I can't look at those pictures of my front garden without cringing. Time to add structure! Time to add a more formal layout! Time to add focal points! Or, at least, plan for them (as this year will be the year of the pergola, hubby has promised!) It is my hope that if I have a plan that won't be implemented until 2012 then at least this year I won't waste a lot of time and money doing things in this garden area that will just get undone later.
Here's one possibility for a new front yard garden design. It is the front yard in plan view with the house at the top. This design actually doesn't make any major changes to the front area near the sidewalk, but adds an open, patio area at the base of the stairs (the width of the sidewalk where it meets the stairs is currently too narrow), as well as a second, circular open area, mulched for low maintenance, with some extra interest using buried timbers (or possibly brick?) in a radial pattern and a birdbath as a focal point. The existing sidewalk will be edged in the same cobblestone and the concrete will be stained to match. This is a minimal cost design as it makes use of most of the existing sidewalk and only requires a fairly small amount of new cobblestones.
This is just a rough sketch, not to scale and showing minimal planting detail (but I promise you, there will be no grass!) But for my own purposes I'm just trying out different layouts before I spend too much time on designing plantings. I'd like to get out there and outline this layout with a couple of hoses in situ and really be able to visualize what it would look like. Suddenly I can't wait for the snow to melt!
Here's a photo of a neighbour's upgraded regular concrete sidewalk that inspired me to re-use the existing concrete sidewalk.
From the archives:
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I almost hate to show you these pictures since, as I wrote last time, I'm planning to do some major re-working of this garden next year. It's not much to look at right now, but for the record, here it is!
Above photos, clockwise from top left: liatris and veronica 'Red Fox' in the foreground; 'Annabelle' hydrangea; pots of annuals on the front steps; pink monarda (beebalm) and purple aconitum (monkshood).
Here's what this garden looks like at other times of the year:
Hmm. This area needs help. You can just barely see some monarda (bee balm), aconitum (monkshood) and Annabelle hydrangea blooming at the back in front of the brick, and there are a few lilies and some painted sage here and there, but overall this area needs work. It has been a bit of a test area to see what would grow here since there were formally 5, now 4, large spruce trees surrounding this little patch of ground. The choices are quite limited, let me tell ya! It needs work. It needs structure. I am going to spend the winter thinking about what I want to do here.
I rarely even post pictures of this area since it isn't much to be proud of, but here's what I've posted in the past:
If you've been following my blog, you know I've been campaigning to lose this tree for a long time. I first wrote about it last February in an impassioned plea to my husband entitled 'Confessions of a Sustainable Gardener'.
Hooray! It has finally happened. The tree was removed during the chinook a week or so ago, and the stump will come out in spring. (There's no taking-down-0f-trees that's going to happen around my house in spring/summer/fall for fear of smashing the garden!)
I found a company who would do it for much less than the original $1000 estimate I got and they did a great job. I still feel a little guilty for spending so much on taking down a tree when that money could have been easily spent on a more environmental project such as replacing a drafty window or a fun thing like taking the family on a little trip, but... not that guilty! The tree was in a stupid spot, too close to the house and too close to other trees. I'd already cut off all the lower branches to get some light into the house and improve the view from that bay window, but it was still UGLY. And I still have 4 50-year-old spruce trees in the front yard and 5 in the back so I can still comfortably call myself a tree-hugger.
Here's the view from the street now - you can actually see the front door and part of the window from the street!
The only problem now is that I've been blaming that tree for the fact that plants in my Front Entry Garden and Front Shade Garden do not grow very well, due to the huge uptake of water and nutrients from the spruce tree roots. This year there will be no excuses... Those gardens had better look good this year or I will eat spruce tree needles!
Here's part 3 of my 2009 garden reflections. To view them in order, please click here.
The front Entry Garden (year 6)
Yes that's right, I said year 6. I almost hesitate to post these pictures because this is definitely not the most thriving area of my garden... See, I'm not perfect! Although I have tried to restrict the plants in this garden to those that are very drought-tolerant, these plants still have not thrived. This garden just doesn't look like it's made up of 6-year-old, healthy plants, does it? They don't get enough sun, for one thing. But the main problem is that there are 5 giant spruce trees around the perimeter of my front yard and this poor little garden is smack dab in the middle of them. The spruce roots not only hog the water but they also hog a lot of the nutrients.
I am hoping to remedy this by taking down one of the trees this winter (for my initial plea, click here.) If this garden doesn't start to take off next year, there will be some serious renovation happening...
Oh, and by the way, I haven't taken care of the grass in this yard since I moved in. I was hoping it would just die on its own (due to the trees, again) but little tufts of it still survive and look pathetic. Next year it's getting covered with a nice bark mulch.
OK, enough excuses for the ugliness. Here goes:
This garden when I first dug it up just after I moved in summer 2004.
Mid-June. Anemone sylvestris in bloom; chives about to bloom.
Late June. Iris germanica, anemone sylvestris, chives, and pink perennial geranium in bloom. I do like those chartreuse-coloured spirea 'Goldmound' that book-end this garden. If only they were bigger... And gawd! Take those Christmas lights down already!
Mid-July. It looks much better when you get down to ground level so you don't notice all the bare soil between plants, doesn't it? As I said, I'm hoping plants start to take off next year with one less spruce tree's worth of roots in the ground. Peachleaf bellflower, spirea 'Goldmound', purple chives, blue flax, and clary sage in bloom here.
Late July. Peachleaf bellflower, asiatic lilies, dwarf shasta daisy and clary sage in bloom. I think I'd like to get some more daisies.
Late July. Lilies, clary sage and daisies still in bloom. That's hydrangea 'Annabelle' in bloom at the back of the photo in front of the brick. I divided it this spring and spread some smaller pieces around so that there will eventually be a hedge of hydrangea in front of the house. It should look lovely in about 5 more years...
Late August. Annabelle hydrangea still in bloom; pink monarda adds to the picture now. There's some purple monkshood beside the steps too, but you can't really see it in this photo.
Mid-September. I took the bug-ridden virginia creeper vine down off the chimney. It just didn't get enough sun to look good. I've replaced it with some spring-blooming clematis that should show up well next year, but unfortunately won't get as tall. Hmm, still need another vine here...
Early October. There's one lonely purple liatris spike sticking up here - I'll have to add more next year!
Ewww. After reviewing these pictures I am more embarrassed than ever to post them.
Other parts of the garden:
I did it! I actually did it! I managed to get both of my large compost bins emptied and the compost spread on the front gardens and part of the back lawn. This was on my September to-do list (and my May, June and July to-do lists before that! - you get the picture...) and I finally, finally got around to finishing it. I'm patting myself on the back on this one, because it's not the most fun job in the world and I've been procrastinating for a long time. But a garden topped up with fresh compost is a beautiful sight, don't you think?
Here's my front shade garden, the most bare and plain garden in the whole yard because I only grow very shade- and drought-tolerant stuff here due to the 2 spruce trees smack-dab in front of the house. But even this sparse area looks nice with fresh compost on it!
The tree just on the left-side of the picture is coming down this fall and I've been looking forward to that for a long time! This area should grow a lot better next year with only one spruce tree's worth of roots in the ground rather than two.
And next year I'll only have to buy compost for the back garden - I never have enough!!
Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) is such a beautiful vine in the right spot! Its fall colour is fantastic if it gets enough sun. Mine, however, was planted on the northeast side of my house, and with the additional shade of surrounding trees, it only got a couple hours of morning sun. It was almost dead when I moved into this house 5 years ago, and I have tried to save it… until now. This past week-end I ruthlessly ripped it out!
This is what it looks like by this time of year – the leaves have turned brown and spotted, and it is hopping with little bugs, literally called 'Virginia creeper leafhopper' (or 'erythroneura ziczac', if you want to get technical!) These bugs are notoriously difficult to get rid of and are to blame for making the vine look so ugly by this time of year.
So, out this vine comes. Some possibilities for replacing it? Honeysuckle vines do fairly well in partial shade, but I already have 3 in the backyard, so was looking for something different. I ended up choosing an alpine clematis. This is not one of the large-flowered clematis that bloom in summer and need lots of sun, but a hardy, spring blooming clematis that likes partial shade and never needs cutting back.
The clematis variety that I got, mainly because it was one of the few I could find at the garden centers this time of year,is called clematis alpina 'Willy'. It has pale pink, nodding flowers, and as I said, blooms in spring and doesn't need cutting back. I should eventually get 6-8 ft tall and wide, so eventually will cover my chimney again. It is drought tolerant once established and not generally bothered by pests.
Here is my house in 2004, the year we moved in. As you can see, I wasted no time in starting to remove some of the front lawn! Unfortunately, the deck was rotted and had to come out the next year.
Anyway, I couldn't stand the orangey-brown colour, especially with yellow trim. In 2006 we painted the house blue (actually, my Dad did.) I know, I know, neutral beiges are currently trendy and much more sophisticated looking, but in a city that looks brown for most of the year, I need colour wherever possible!
So now I am starting to think about trim colours, because the yellow has got to go too! (please don't laugh at my weak photoshop skills!)
I can't quite decide, so I am asking for opinions. Here is what I am currently thinking though:
I love the funky chartreuse trim in the top photos, but am thinking it's too impractical. In a couple of years, we want to start replacing all the windows and will probably go with low-maintenance vinyl frames on the outside. Therefore, the trim needs to be a fairly standard colour. (and by the way, I'm not up to painting the eavestroughs right now so they will stay brown)
While not as bright, I also like the light blue-ish/teal-ish/grey-ish trim. Now what do you think about a door colour?
[Update: Elli, one of the artists in my family, says green trim. She would pick the less practical one...!]
Here is the front view of my house as of this morning: my cute little blue bungalow (I want to change the yellow trim…) nestled in the spruce trees… the giant, water-hogging, nothing-will-grow-under-them spruce trees! In case you can't tell, there are 5 (count 'em, 5!) in the front yard. I also still have 5 in the backyard after taking out 4 others in the past few years. Some previous owner went crazy planting spruce trees at least 20 years ago.
There is one tree, the one to the left of the front door (as you look at the house), that I want to get rid of. Just out of curiosity, I requested an estimate to have it professionally removed. It would cost $1067.85!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $585 to take the tree down, $234 to take away the wood, and $198 to take out the stump (plus tax). Um, not exactly in my gardening budget.
So live with it, my tree-hugger husband says. He wouldn't even want to take one down if we could get it done for free!
So I'm trying to convince him to let me and my Dad do it (we have taken down others in the past – well, my Dad did and I held the rope). I know, it would be an insane amount of work to take it down and get rid of all that wood ourselves. But here are the reasons why it is important to me to get rid of this tree:
1. I can live with spruce trees. I even know what will grow under/around them. But with 5 large trees so close together, pretty much the whole front yard is sucked dry by their root systems. Some plants are surviving but nothing is really thriving. If I could just get rid of one tree's worth of roots, I'm certain the garden would grow a whole lot better.
2. Come on! We would still have 10 large spruce trees in our yard! That is more spruce than anyone could want in one city lot! Think of the variety of different plants that would take one tree's place. Think of the biodiversity and the birds, bugs, bees that would be attracted by the flowering & fruiting plants I would put in its place and how much healthier the soil would be!
3. You might say, just don't bother trying to garden around so many spruce trees. Just put down some nice mulch and be done with it. I might agree if this particular tree were not smack-dab in front of a beautiful, big bay window in the front room of our house. You can't see it in the picture, can you? That's because of the *&%^$ tree!! More importantly, the inside view from this beautiful window is ruined by the tree. Think how much nicer it would be to look out onto a shady woodland garden, perhaps with relaxing little sitting area. With the other trees and shrubs, there will still be lots of privacy from the street.
Please honey? Please please please?
I am trying to convince my husband that we need to get rid of this spruce tree in front of our house. What is the point of a big beautiful bay window if you look out right at this? I think the view of a garden from inside a house is just as important, if not more important, than outside. It used to be even worse before I limbed up the branches a bit.
Not to mention there's already 4 other giant spruce trees sucking all the water and nutrients out of the soil and shading the garden by the front steps. It is very challenging to grow stuff here. Also not to mention the horrible red shale mulch that I am still trying to remove from my property 4 years after moving in. Curse the person who put down red shale!
I want to have this taken out in spring, so that I don't have to worry about the existing garden getting smushed when the tree falls. It's not going to be cheap, but it needs to be done. If I can't convince my husband, I may just book it anyway and surprise him... I wonder if he'd be mad...


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Today, 21st September 2017, International Day of Peace, Dr Scilla Elworthy publishes her latest, incredible book
The Business Plan for Peace: Building a World Without War
Three times nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize, Scilla Elworthy now publishes the first ever business plan for peace, based on 40 years pioneering initiatives in the transformation of conflict. Detailing 25 viable methods on international, national and local levels, the book demonstrates that war can be prevented worldwide over a period of 10 years for less than 2 billion dollars. The final chapters present the kind of actions that anyone can take: 10 that can be undertaken locally, 14 nationally and 7 actions to take internationally.
- While war hits the front pages daily, peace is not considered sexy.
- Yet this book packs a punch with facts and figures detailing the forces that drive war and in sharp contrast showing what can be done to stop people killing each other.
- The total cost of scaling up all the most effective systems to prevent war over a period of 10 years would cost under $2 billion. Currently we spend $9 billion annually on ice cream.
- Peace doesn't have to be a distant aim for idealists: on this International Day of Peace, here's a chance to present the facts and figures of what can be done.
Scilla receives incessant requests on a daily basis, asking "what can I do?" given the current state of the world. Because of the urgency of offering answers, the book is published independently in paperback, and various e-versions. They can be purchased here.
Five key messages of the book
War makes a few people extremely rich, and makes billions of people extremely poor. Every year, the world spends about $2 trillion on wars. The total value of the global arms trade alone was at least $94.5 billion in 2014. By contrast, just $10 billion would cover the cost of bringing clean water and sanitation to everyone on the planet. Those who thrive in war are not only arms manufacturers but also people traffickers, arms smugglers, money launderers, drug dealers — plus others who require a lawless environment to make a fortune.
This book describes and references at least 25 proven systems that effectively prevent armed conflict and build safety at local, national and international levels. This is achieved through the methodical application of dialogue, prevention and early intervention, such as preventing the recruitment of suicide bombers in NW Pakistan. Each system is presented in detail, with examples of how it works in practice, followed by the plan of how it can now be implemented at scale.
Armed conflict causes massive economic losses every year, yet peace-building and peace-keeping are grossly under-funded. The spending in 2015 on peace-building ($6.8 billion) and peacekeeping ($8.27 billion) together represented just 2 per cent of the economic losses caused by conflict. This book demonstrates that the total cost of scaling up all the most effective systems to prevent war over a period of 10 years would cost under $2 billion. Currently we spend $9 billion annually on ice cream.
The current exponential rise in citizen action shows how fast humanity is evolving toward a more awakened, empathic society. The book outlines what anyone who wants to be active to prevent violence and armed conflict can do: 10 actions to take in your community, 14 actions to take nationally and 7 actions to take internationally. It addresses the self-knowledge and inner development that is essential if people are to be effective in their efforts, and provides trusted exercises to develop the skills needed in order to become inspiring builders of peaceful societies.
The research for this book has shown how vital is the work of women in stopping people killing each other. Example after example demonstrates their innate skill. Crisis Group has found that a peace agreement is 35% more likely to last at least 15 years if women participate in its creation, yet until recently women made up only 2.5% of signatories to peace agreements. Thousands more women are needed at every level. Peace-building cannot succeed if half the population is excluded from the process.
p.14: The result of rape as a weapon of war is to extend post-conflict chaos because the children born have no idea who is their father; moreover the anguish of a woman who has given birth to a child whose father is the 'enemy' can only be imagined.
p.16: "War is past its sell-by date"
p.21: Five of the world's six largest arms sellers are the five Permanent Members of the UN Security Council. This explains why efforts to curb the arms trade have so far failed.
p.27: "After seven days [in Iraq, Jan 2003] we had collected enough positive information to condense it into a two-page Plan to Tony Blair, outlining in ten points how war could be avoided. It was placed in Blair's hands a few days later. I heard that he read it quickly and said, "It's too late." For Blair, it was. Two months later we discovered that irreversible machinery for the US/UK invasion had been set in motion the previous October and that Blair had given Bush his unconditional support a year previously."
p.34: Attempts to stop war from the top down often fail because of the mind-sets — fear, aggression, competition, greed — qualities shared by most of those leaders filtered to the top by our current systems. One of the best ways to overcome the force of these attitudes and emotions is by systematically building trust through dialogue.
p.79: If a pragmatic approach can be adopted that links these local, national, regional and global objectives into a whole system, it will be possible to transform the twenty-first century into a century of peace.
p.82: The total peace dividend the international community would reap if it doubled peacebuilding commitments over the next ten years is calculated to be US$2.94 trillion.
p.95: …global military expenditure in 2016 was $1686 billion. That is just for one year. With a world population of 7.6 billion118, this equals to $221.8 for every person on the planet. The [above] calculation to bring a global Peace Plan into action is estimated to cost $1,942,400,000 for ten years, just under two billion, or approx. $194,240,000 for one year. With a world population of 7,600,000,000, this equals just under 3 cents for every person on the planet.
p.104: Those filtered to the top by our current political systems tend by nature to be better at argument, competition and aggression than listening, mediation and compassion. That's the name of the game, currently. And that's why attempts to stop war from the top down are so prone to failure. Syria is a current example. So something different is required. And in my observation something different is happening. We have already seen that locally-led initiatives to prevent conflict in the most violent parts of the world have increased four-fold, and we have become familiar with the incredible courage of people risking their lives to stop war at the sharp end.
p.107: Perhaps more profound and far-reaching than any other current phenomena is the shift from a paternalistic 'top down' approach to change ("the leaders are in charge") to a laterally organised 'bottom up' series of initiatives springing up all over the globe.
See the video trailer for the book here.
For a free hard copy or e-copy please supply name, media organisation and address to us at firstname.lastname@example.com and we'll get that over to you.


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The Crucible Essay by Antonetta Spratling
Jason Smith Mrs. Bartosiewicz ENG 3U1 2 December 2011 Human Nature vs Personal Gain Growing, learning and becoming the best we can be are all positive steps that evolve from life experience. It is human nature that wants to succeed and contribute to society in productive ways. In the play The Crucible, written by Arthur Miller, individuals display an ugly side of human nature and are motivated by less than noble goals. Throughout the story, justice is often replaced by the desire for personal gain. Perhaps the three best reasons are greed, selfishness and betrayal. Greed is a motivating factor among many individuals in the play.
At many times, John Proctor talks with Hale about Parris's need to become rich, by gathering valuable golden candlesticks. He says, "He preach nothin' but golden candlesticks, until he had them… I think, sometimes, the man dreams cathedrals, not clapboard meetin' houses" (Miller 65). Proctor says this to Parries to illustrate Parris's materialistic nature and thirst for power, land and material possessions. Like Reverend Parris, Thomas Putnam is also greedy. Thomas uses his daughter to falsely accuse George Jacob of witchcraft. The accusation leads to the arrest and conviction of George Jacob by Judge Danforth.
Giles Corey's explains to Danforth that Mr. Putnam is dishonest and says "If Jacobs hangs for a witch he forfeit up his property- that's law! … This man is killing his neighbors for their land" (Miller 96). Thomas Putnam uses these falsifying witchcraft trails to increase his own wealth by accusing people of dealing in witchcraft, getting them convicted and then taking advantage of the situation by buying up their property. Characters like Parris and Putnam are so obsessed with greed that they do not have a conscience. Just as the evils of greed occupy Parris and Putnam, Abigail Williams is motivated by selfishness.
She is vengeful, manipulative and a magnificent liar; for example, she goes into the forest at night and practises witchcraft with the other girls form the village. However, when Abigail is confronted about her disgusting behaviour, she chooses to keep her well respected reputation intact. Abigail denies that she was in the forest dancing that night, threatens the girls and says, "Now look you. All of you. We danced… Let either of you breathe a word… I will come to you in the black of some terrible night and I will bring a pointy reckoning that will shudder you" (Miller 20). She does this to also avoid being arrested.
Not only does Abigail lie about witchcraft, she also stuffs the needle in the doll that Mary Warren made for Elizabeth. Cheever explains, "The girl, the Williams girl, Abigail Williams, sir. She sat to dinner in Reverend Parris's house tonight… she falls to the floor… he goes to save her, and, stuck two inches in the flesh of her belly, he draw a needle out. And demandin' of her how she come to be stabbed" (Miller 74). Abigail uses this situation to accuse Elizabeth of practising witchcraft to harm her Abigail. She does this to sabotage Elizabeth and, eventually, take her place as John Proctor's wife.
callousness with Elizabeth shows that her selfishness has no bounds or morals. If greed and selfish are not bad enough human characteristics, betrayal is perhaps the most cunning and provides the most false sense of security. Mary Warren accuses John Proctor of consorting with the devil and pressuring her to join him in his evil ways, which is not true. As Mary yells in anger, she says pointing at Proctor, "You're the Devil's man! " (Miller 118). She continues on to say "I'll not hang with you! I love God, I love God" (118). Mary Warren's loyalty to John Proctor is betrayed under pressure to save her own life rather than be hanged.
Abigail betrays Tituba so that she does not get question by Reverend Hale. What Abigail says to Hale and Parris when she falsely accuses Tituba is "She sends her spirit on me in church; she makes me laugh at prayer! " (Miller 44). Abigail does not want to confess her practise of witchcraft in the forest with her girls at night. While in the play there is no shortage of characters willing to do the wrong thing in life, choosing to do the right thing is always the preferred path in life. Having to replace any form of righteousness (justice) with greed, selfishness or betrayal does not justify our actions or means for the end result.
Each one of the characters in the crucible mention in the above paragraph have all demonstrated that some form of human nature for self rewardance was place before justice/righteousness. There are always consequences when the truth is not told. Whenever we use these actions in our character they always lead us away in the opposite direction from our true and honest goals. Righteousness in the heart produces beauty in the character. Works Cited Miller, Arthur. The Crucible. New York: Penguin Books, 1976. Print


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Sewing sequin fabric does not have to be frustrating or be done by hand. With a few subtle alterations, you can use sequin fabric for your next sewing project. This fabric can be used for dresses, skirts, boleros – just about anything can benefit from a touch of bling. When I first started sewing, I was terrified of sequin fabrics. Although I loved them, I was afraid of ruining my sewing machine by sewing through the sequins. But not any more! With a few simple tricks and tips sewing sequin fabric is easy.
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Sewing Sequin FabricStep 1 – Pattern SelectionStep 1 – CuttingStep 2 – Sewing Sequin FabricStep 4 – FinishingStep 5 – PressingSewing Sequin Fabric – In ConclusionMore Sequin Articles
Sewing Sequin Fabric
Normally sequins are sewn onto fine or sheer fabrics such as tulle of mesh to give them some stability. It can be woven or have a small amount of stretch. The best fabrics have the sequins sewn on but they can also be glued. Some sequin fabrics are quite dense with many overlapping sequins so no background is showing, while others may have random or side by side sequins showing the fabric backing.
Before you start, be warned that sewing sequin fabric is messy. Be prepared for a clean up afterward and keep your pets away as there is likely to be stray sequins everywhere.
PinSewing Sequin Fabric
Step 1 – Pattern Selection
Simple – Choose a pattern suitable for sewing sequin fabric. The best patterns are streamlined with minimal or no gathering, no darts, and only a few seams. If your sequin fabric has stretch then it will need to be a stretch pattern with an appropriate stretch factor. For woven fabric choose a woven pattern.
Lining – Check whether the inside of the sequin fabric is scratchy and think about adding a thin satin lining to make it more comfortable to wear. Sequins sewn on tulle or mesh are often see-through anyway so a lining is recommended. If you don`t want to add a lining to your pattern, the alternative is to wear a separate half or full slip under your sequined outfit.
Step 1 – Cutting
Removing sequinsbefore sewing sequin fabric – If you have really hard to cut sequins, you may need to remove some from the edges in order to get the scissors through. For glued sequins, pick them off and for sewn sequins, gently unpick the stitching being careful not to extend over the seam allowance. You will need a seam ripper to do the unpicking of stitched sequins. Cutting out sequin fabric is a messy job. Even the small sample pieces I cut for the photos here resulted in sequins everywhere.
PinSewing Sequin Fabric
Direction – Make sure all the sequins pattern pieces are facing the same direction. You don`t want the sleeves for example to have sequins traveling up your arm. The sequins should all sit down flat when the item is worn.
One at a Time – Cut one piece at a time. It is not likely that your scissors will be able to cut through 2 layers of sequin fabric. Keep in mind that some pieces need to be mirror images of each other so you may need to flip the paper pattern over to cut the second piece. For pieces that need to be cut on the fold, cut one side of the pattern then flip it over to cut the other side.
Safety – When you cut you will find little pieces of sequins scattered over your table and floor so just keep the pets away until you have cleaned up. Protect your eyes in case of any projectiles. Some sequins cut really easily and some may need a bit of pressure.
Marking – If you need to mark the fabric, it will be easiest to do so on the back of the fabric. For thin or transparent backings, use tacking stitches in a contrast thread to mark instead of chalk or pen. That way the stitches can be removed later and your fabric is not damaged.
Step 2 – Sewing Sequin Fabric
Options – Sewing sequin fabric can be done by machine or by hand. Of course using a machine is quicker, but sometimes you will have no choice but to hand sew, especially if you can`t remove the excess sequins from the seam allowance.
Safety – If you are going to be sewing sequin fabric using a sewing machine and you haven`t removed the sequins from the seam, I suggest wearing some safety glasses in case a needle hits a sequin and breaks. That`s one advantage of me getting glasses to sew a few years ago – my eyes are always protected now.
Best Machine Needles – The best needles to use for sewing sequin fabric is either a thicker universal needle or a leather needle. Leather needles are strengthened and designed for piercing through tough fabrics so can be a better choice where your fabric is really dense and you can`t remove sequins from the seam allowance.
Woven Sequin Fabric by Machine – Use a straight stitch for the seams. If you have removed the sequins from the seam allowance this should be fairly straight forward. For fabrics you need to sew through the sequins, the straight stitch will look a little crooked but when the seam is opened up, it will look straight.
Stretch Sequin Fabric by Machine – Sewing sequin fabric with stretch needs to be done with a narrow zig-zag stitch to maintain the stretch in the seams. Test a scrap with a width of 0.5 and a length of 2.5 and adjust accordingly. The stitches should not break when you give the seam a gentle tug. Read all about how to sew stretch fabric.
PinSewing Sequin Fabric
Sewing Sequin Fabric by Hand – The best hand-stitch for sewing sequin fabric is a backstitch. The smaller the stitches, the stronger the seam will be.
Test – Sequined fabrics can vary enormously so do a test first to determine the best methods.
Step 4 – Finishing
Seam Options – If you do need to finish the edges you could try a zig-zag stitch or bias tape covering. Do NOT use your serger to finish seams as it will ruin the blade. The only circumstance under which you could use a serger is if all the sequins are removed from the seam allowance and there is no chance of you sewing over any metal.
Raw Edges – Otherwise, just leave the edges alone. If you have a lining then the raw edges will be hidden anyway. I don`t imagine you will be throwing your new sequin dress in the washing machine, so there will not be as much wear and tear on seams as usual anyway. Many sequin fabrics are sewn on mesh or tulle which doesn`t fray anyway so take a close look and test a scrap for fraying.
Topstitching when Sewing Sequin Fabric – If your pattern calls for topstitching, you will have to skip that step. Most sequin fabrics will look messy if you try and topstitch and it would look a little strange if you removed sequins from the edge in order to do so.
Sparse Seams – If you have removed sequins at the seam allowances and some have little gaps when finished, hand sew or glue some of the sequins back. You can also replace any broken sequins. If you are going to glue, the best glue is E600. Read about how to attach rhinestones for more information on glues and hand stitching.
Step 5 – Pressing
Most sequin fabrics can`t be pressed as the heat will damage the sequins. You may be able to press the back but do a test first and make sure you have a pressing cloth handy to put between the fabric and the iron. If a seam allowance needs to be pressed in a certain direction, you may just be able to put a couple of tiny hand stitches to hold it in place instead.
For sequins caught in the seam, a gentle tap with a flat hammer may flatten and open seams. These fabrics can be expensive so do a test before you start hitting it with a hammer and don`t forget to put a pressing cloth in between to prevent marks.
Sewing Sequin Fabric – In Conclusion
So now you know all about sewing sequin fabric you can go and create something wonderful for your wardrobe or an amazing costume that will make you shine.
More Sequin Articles
Sewing SequinsHow to Sew Sequin TrimHow to Attach Rhinestones
PinSewing SequinsPinSequin Trim
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With restaurants and buzzing business, the fish market in Santiago is a tourist magnet. For locals, Mercado Central is the source of the best food.
It's a dog's life
There's something about the street dogs in Chile's city, Santiago. They're healthy and plump with lush coats. Why? Because the community looks after them!
Hitting the streets of Santiago
Chile's capital is but a stage for our free tour guide. But there's something about his stories that bring the city to life. And what a city Santiago is!


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The Parkville EDC is hosting a meeting with Brian Nowotny, Director of Platte County Parks and Recreation presenting a program on the Platte County Parks Master Plan Update on Thursday June 26th at the Platte County South Community Center (YMCA) in Parkville at 6:15 pm. Program to start at 6:30 pm. This is open to the public so invite your neighbors. Please RSVP to Greg Foss.
Greg Foss, CEcD
Executive Director
Parkville Economic Development Council
Office: 816-268-5006
Cell: 816-935-1041


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Jewish Greeting… Passover
There are several Jewish and Hebrew greetings, farewells, and phrases that are used in Judaism, and in Jewish and Hebrew-speaking communities around the world. Even outside Israel, Hebrew is an important part of Jewish life.[1] Many Jews, even if they do not speak Hebrew fluently, will know several of these greetings (most are Hebrew, and among Ashkenazim some are Yiddish).[1]
Chag sameach
Used as a greeting for the holidays, can insert holiday name in the middle; e.g. "chag Chanukah sameach".[2] Also, for Passover, "chag kasher v'same'ach" (חַג כָּשֵׁר וְשָׂמֵחַ) meaning wishing a happy and kosher(-for-Passover) holiday.[2]
How do you say Chag Sameach?
For the Feast of Weeks say, "Chag Shavu'ot Sameach" It is pronounced "KHAHG shah-voo-AWT."
You can also say "chag sameach," which translates to "happy festival" and is the Hebrew equivalent of "happy holidays." To make this Passover greeting specific, you can throw the word "Pesach" in the middle of that phrase — "chag Pesach samech."Mar 30, 2018


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Special Orders Don't Upset Us
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Just a quick post to give you an update on one of our newest features. A few months back we wrote about custom fields in Risk I/O and how to add your own data and metadata to your vulnerabilities and assets. Today I'm writing about taking this customization to the next step.
We recognize different people within your company are going to need to see different views of your data, so why not give them what they need? With our latest release of Risk I/O vulnerability management not only can you create custom attributes and meta data, but also create completely custom views of this data within the interface and reports. By simply checking a box, you can choose what data is displayed and what data is hidden within your vulnerabilities.
Combine these custom data views with your custom attributes, asset tags, and our faceted search and you have a very personalized and dynamic view into your security data.
For our current customers, check out this new capability within the vulnerabilities tab. Don't have an account? Sign up for a free version!


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EXAMPLES OF PROVINCIAL CODESEach Condominium Act/Code or Strata Property Act across Canada has a similar bylaw mandating that condo corporations insure their property adequately in the case of a total loss. The BC Strata Property Act specifies in section 149.1 that the strata corporation must obtain and maintain property insurance for the full replacement value.i In Ontario, the Condominium Act states that the corporation shall obtain and maintain insurance on behalf of the owners for damage caused by major peril, including fire, lightning, smoke and more, and the insurance shall cover the total replacement cost.ii In Alberta, the condo corporation is required to insure the common property and units (not including improvements made to the units by the owners) against loss resulting from destruction or damage caused by any peril, and that this insurance must be equal to the replacement cost of the condominium as described.iii In Quebec, the Civil Code of Quebec stipulates that the syndicate has an insurable interest in the condominium and shall take out insurance against ordinary risks in an amount that is equal to the replacement cost of the condominium.iv
ANNUAL UPDATES TO APPRAISAL AMOUNTIt is equally important to obtain annual updates on the amount to be insured. As the cost of construction and materials are constantly fluctuating, it is important to keep an up-to-date value that reflects these changes. It is therefore recommended that the corporation reviews the adequacy of the insurance annually. This not only ensures that they are always sufficiently covered, but also saves them from paying too much in premiums should there be a dip in industry costs. It is particularly important to maintain annual updates for phased developments throughout the construction period. Ensuring Total Insurable Value is updated upon the completion of each phase is critical to protecting the development.
CASE STUDIESTo emphasize the importance of an accurate and up-to-date insurance appraisal, here are two examples of properties that experienced a fire resulting in the total loss of the structure. In the first case, the condominium? was not adequately covered by their insurance benefit. In the second example, the business had secured sufficient insurance in the amount of the total replacement cost. The results were strikingly different.
Quebec Condominium FireIn 2008, a condominium was deemed a total loss after a fire destroyed the building. The condo board filed a claim for the common property and the condo owners filed for their personal portions. For the common property, there was a $454,938 shortfall. The cost of the rebuild was not completely covered due to the condo corporation's insufficient insurance coverage and the owners were responsible for the difference, at a cost of $6,119 per unit. While many of the owners had additional insurance in the case of a short fall, two owners did not. As a result, these owners were responsible for paying the special assessment themselves. These owners submitted a claim against the condo board and condo management, faulting them for not securing sufficient replacement cost insurance for the building. They maintained that, according to the declaration of co-ownership and section 1073 of the Civil Code of Quebec, it was the responsibility of the condo board to provide insurance coverage for an amount equal to the building's replacement cost. As it was the condo manager's decision to not insure the building in an amount equal to the replacement value, he was held personally liable for a portion of the deficit. It was determined in court that it was the obligation of the condo board to ensure the building in an amount equal to the full replacement cost, including demolition, taxes, and other professional fees. In addition, the condo manager was found liable for the harm suffered by the condo owners as he had set the amount of replacement cost when he purchased the insurance coverage on behalf of the condo board.
Alberta Manufacturer FireIn 2007, a massive fire destroyed one of the main buildings of a manufacturing plant in Alberta. A year prior to the fire, the owners of the plant had obtained an insurance appraisal from Normac for the first time. Before requesting the appraisal, the company had been estimating their replacement costs, but had not been updating them on a regular basis. Previously the property was insured for $13,000,000 less than the Normac estimate. Due to our updated appraisal, the client was able to completely replace their structure, which was a total loss. Despite this major interruption to their business, they were able to make it through and are currently thriving because their coverage was sufficient. Our appraisal meant they were properly insured for the full value and saved their business.
IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBERWhen considering these Quebec and Alberta examples, the value of obtaining a proper insurance appraisal is evident. A correctly performed insurance appraisal can save owners millions of dollars in repair and replacement costs and ensures a business can continue to operate after a total loss. Furthermore, working with an experienced appraiser can save owners and boards from significant conflict and protect a condo board from being held liable for a portion of replacement costs. The most secure way to protect owners and corporations is to obtain an accurate replacement cost for the property annually. Only a professional appraiser can effectively determine the replacement value, which must include demolition and removal expenses, current building practices and technological improvements, local and national bylaw requirements, construction labour and material fluctuations, and necessary taxes. These true-life case studies underline the importance of always obtaining a current insurance appraisal from a company that specializes in this profession. Disasters do happen, so make sure that your assets are properly appraised. Our clients rely on us to provide the most accurate and reliable replacement cost reports. For a no-obligation proposal, please request a quote. To download this article, click here.
- http://www.bclaws.ca/civix/document/id/complete/statreg/98043_09#part9
- https://ccitoronto.org/sites/default/uploads/files/condoact1998/CondoAct1998.pdf
- www.qp.alberta.ca/documents/Acts/c22.pdf
- https://ccq.lexum.com/w/ccq/en#!fragment/sec1072/KGhhc2g6KGNodW5rxIVhbsSHb3JUZXh0OnNlYzEwNzIpLG5vdGVzUXVlcnk6Jycsc2Nyb2xsQ8SIxIo6IW7ErWVhcsSHxKXEp8SpxKvEusS8xIdTxJB0QsSpUkVMRVZBTkNFLHRhYjp0b2MpKQ==
- http://www.advantagescondo.com/replacement-value-insurance-policy-the-court-confirms-the-obligation-of-the-syndicate-and-the-administrators-1.aspx


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Trek Travel is celebrating 20 years of cycling vacations, fun, and adventure! Thank you for trusting us to show you the world by bike. Scroll down to see some of our favorite memories!
President Tania Burke led Trek Travel's first trip in 2002 in Tuscany.
20 years of showing guests the world by bike.
"This was yet another outstanding Trek Travel adventure. From the equipment to the routes and the overall expertise of the guides, it is hard to imagine that any tour group could do it better. This was our third Trek Travel vacation and we look forward to many, many more."
—Melissia, PROVENCE


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The best selling replica panerai luminor submersible watch in black dial
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Our policy lasts 30 days. If 30 days have gone by since your purchase, unfortunately we can't offer you a refund or exchange.
To be eligible for a return, your item must be unused and in the same condition that you received it. It must also be in the original packaging. If your item does not meet these requirements, then it will be rejected by our returns team and returned to your address.
You will be responsible for paying for your own shipping costs for returning your item. Shipping costs are non-refundable.
When returning your item(s), you should consider using a trackable shipping service. We don't guarantee that we will receive your returned item.
If in the case that your kit arrives damaged by delivery services, please contact our support team for a replacement request to be placed. Damaged kits do not qualify for an order to be refunded, only if it is returned. If you would like to return your damaged kit for a refund, please contact our support team. Please note that you would be required to pay for return shipping, which is non-refundable.
A refund (full or partial) can only be issued if your item is returned. This policy is in place to ensure that customers' cannot order with the intent to request a refund, while keeping their item.
Once your return is received and inspected, we will send you an email to notify you that we have received your returned item. We will also notify you of the approval or rejection of your refund/exchange.
If you are approved, then your refund will be processed, and a credit will automatically be applied to your credit card or original method of payment, within 5-10 business days.
Additionally, if for some reason you have not received your order after 75 days since it has been placed, then a refund can be issued if your address provided is correct, with no errors.


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Early 20th century Carved Giltwood Mirror
Early 20th century giltwood mirror, with floral, vegetal and scrolling carving, shaped, of Lombard origin.
Shaped Cembran pinewood frame is embellished with scrolling carving and floral decorations. Modern mirror plate.
The work comes from a private furnishing of a villa of Milan and it is in good condition, wear consistent with age and use, see details.
Article size:
Height: 81 cm
Width: 43 cm
Depth: 6 cm
Period: 1900
Article size:
height: 81 cm
width: 43 cm
depth: 6 cm
Our offers
Italian antique ivory color painted and giltwood mirror, dating back to early 19th century. This elegant Neoclassical overmantel mirror is decorated with giltwood floral and vegetal ornaments and two columns, fluted and decorated with golden masks and elements. Good age related condition, with later ivory painting and glass mirror.


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Guarding the flame: Torch Run helps raise awareness for Special Olympics
Clearly, these runners were VIPs. If you weren't convinced by the Collier County Sheriff's Office (CCSO) DARE car leading the pack, and the phalanx of sheriff's deputies and Naples Police vehicles escorting the group, the SWAT team's armored car helped passing motorists steer clear and give the group a wide berth.
The occasion was the 33rd annual Law Enforcement Torch Run, and running along with the deputies and officers were some of the athletes of the Special Olympics, on a mission to raise support and awareness for the group.
The deputies, corrections officers, athletes, coaches and supporters ran nearly five miles at the event, held Friday morning, April 14. They started the run at the CCSO headquarters and county jail at the Collier Government Center, picked up additional support from the Naples Police Department (NPD) at its headquarters, and finished up at Publix, across U.S. 41 from Coastland Center mall.
While running away from jail is generally frowned upon, and those who do will usually have officers running after them, on this cool morning everyone was running together, "putting their best feet forward," as the news release from CCSO said. With Collier County schoolchildren out of school for the Good Friday holiday, 11-year-old Tyler Gonzalez got to lead the parade, riding in the DARE-emblazoned Camaro with his dad, sheriff's Sgt. Mel Gonzalez.
In all, 11 of the runners were Special Olympics athletes, but the one who got to carry the torch was Michael Lynch, a longtime veteran of the run. Running right up with him was Abigail Konopik, 9.
"A year ago, she could barely run 100 yards, and now she competes in the 3,200-meter run," said Becky Newell, longtime Special Olympics supporter, and mother of runner Steven Newell.
Altogether, Collier County has 500 Special Olympic athletes, who participate in 11 different sports. The Collier County Torch Run is part of a larger, statewide effort, Sheriff's Capt. Beth Jones told the group before they set out.
"Each year, over 5,000 law enforcement personnel from 300 agencies relay the 'Flame of Hope' over 1,500 miles across the state in the largest fundraising and public awareness project for Florida Special Olympics," she said. "As 'guardians of the flame,' we will carry the torch approximately five miles…Publix is a fitting place to end as they are the largest supporter of the Florida Law Enforcement Torch Run."
Sheriff Kevin Rambosk was scheduled to address the group, but a scheduling conflict caused Jones to "pick up the torch" in his place.
At the NPD, Police Chief Tom Weschler spoke to the runners, but in his work uniform, forced to work at his desk, he said, instead of joining in the run.
"This is a great run, great weather – it's great to get the word out about Special Olympics," he said.
Collier County Special Olympics coordinator David McKenzie did run along with the group, and engaged in some good-natured repartee with some of his athletes when they broke the run at the NPD to pick up their additional police runners.
Unlike some torch relays, there is no attempt to pass the flame from one group to another, or link up with other areas' runners. The Collier run is self-sufficient, although linked in spirit with the others around the state. Event organizers were Sue Gentry and CCSO Sgt. Jennifer Phillips.
For more information or to contribute to help Special Olympics Collier County, go online to www.specialolympicscollier.org.


text: Code signing and verification is the process of digitally signing executables or scripts to ensure that the software you are executing has not been altered since it was signed. Code signing helps protect against corrupt artifacts, process breakdown (accidentally delivering the wrong thing) and even malicious intents. We have recently started implementing code verification in J2V8. Code verification has been implemented in the native code using OpenSSL. Code...Read More