I think that this site won't help beginners

Question: This website seems hard to me. Always getting down votes. It's highly degrading me. I am frustrated to use this website. I won't post comments or discussion or questions in this website. If I ask questions they are always down voted and so are my answers. This site won't help beginners, I think. I also want to mention another thing: tags, which are extremely disguising things, and also reputation. So that I am tagging here
Comment: Try [ell.se] -- that's for you! Good Luck
Comment: Having been a member for only a couple of weeks myself, I can understand what you mean. However, once you realize how much effort many of the other users put into providing useful and well-researched answers, and start selecting and formulating your questions and answers with the same care and attention, you will be amazed how useful this site is.
Comment: Hello burm. If you read the explanatory material given under 'help', you'll see that the purpose of this site isn't to help people with basic questions about English. There are plenty of sites that _are_ intended for that purpose. Sometimes it feels like people are demanding that the site fit in with _their_ demands!
Comment: Are you saying this site is only for research purpose @EdwinAshworth .Do you understand what i am trying to say.
Comment: "Are you saying this site is only for research purpose"  Yes, that's correct.  It's only for top experts to discuss expert issues.  (It could be that this is **not made clear enough** - if that's the case, you're smart to point it out, good one @burm1)
Comment: As a side note, it is a rather bizarre notion that beginners are helped by upvoting their question. This is a question-and-answer site, not a question-and-upvote site. People come here for *answers*, not for imaginary internet points. And the helpfulness of an answer is determined entirely by the helpfulness of the answer, not by whether the question it's on is sitting at +10 or −10. Now, if there is *no* answer or comment or any reaction at all, *that* is not helpful — but again, that would not change one bit if we upvoted the question to 100.
Answer: You are very right in drawing that conclusion.
However, this site was never meant to help beginners! It is clearly stated that

English Language & Usage Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for linguists, etymologists, and serious English language enthusiasts.

For beginners, people that are learning the English language, there is our sister site: English Language Learners.
Comment: +1 That makes it very clear (as long as you read the tour and understand those words). The 'Ask Question' page says `How to Ask : Is your question about English language and usage? We prefer questions that can be answered, not just discussed. Provide details. Share your research.` and makes no mention of needing any sort of qualification or skill level nor is there any mention of ELL. So it's no surprise that people ask questions that fit that 'definition'. ELU doesn't do a good job of directing learners to ELL.
Comment: @Frank: I think part of the problem is that ELL isn''t yet a "fully-fledged" SE site (it's still in "beta"). Consequently, TPTB aren't yet willing to support *Migrate to ELL* on the "closevote" options. Added to which, some ELU users don't see the point of ELL in the first place - for a variety of reasons, including that some questioners feel it's "beneath them" to use a learners' site. Things will probably improve somewhat when ELL finally "graduates", but collectively ELU isn't currently doing much to help that happen any time soon.
Comment: @FumbleFingers ELL seems like a good site, it is definitely more understanding of people who don't write English perfectly. I don't contribute there because I don't know the mechanics of English - I have no idea what a _third person past-perfect continuous_ is (if there is one) and to be honest little interest either. Maybe it'll change if ELL fledges or maybe just one site where people only take an interest in questions that interest them. Who knows? But while ELU doesn't help to direct people to ELL before they ask ... same old, same old.
Comment: @Frank: Some ELL questioners are obsessed with terminology like *third person past-perfect continuous* and *third conditional*, but many/most of them just want to know how to use English more like native speakers. Even if you didn't *answer* questions there, your comments and votes as an obviously competent speaker would be more than welcome on ELL.
Comment: @Frank: you don't need the tour. Who this site is for is the *first* thing you read on the *front page* upon your first visit, *before* you even get to click on "Ask Question". You've got an account now, so you've long forgotten what the site looks like to an all-new visitor. Log out and see for yourself.
Comment: @RegDwigнt It still says `linguists, etymologists, and serious English language enthusiasts` which, if you really should be asking on ELL you might not understand those words and read into it just `hmmm, hmmm (insects?) and serious English language hmmm`, so _English language_ then - perfect!
Answer: The Internet is full of people from different places, different cultures, and different age ranges. Stack Exchange is also a part of that, having a very wide variety of users, some/most of who are here to prove/approve themselves and disapprove all the others out there. This behavior will be more tangible when you're new to the place and the others with a higher reputation, feel they have more authority. This is not a good thing, but that's how the world works nowadays! We need to be able to believe in our own abilities, and try to improve them in a good way.
This website can have negative effects on the new (or even old) users, but at the same time it helps them grow up, and mature to be independent learners, being able to search, research and learn independently.
As @oerkelens mentioned, you should ask your beginner questions in E.L.L., but chances are you'll get burnt over there, too. I was looking at your profile, and I noticed you had an answer that provided two links only. You do get down-votes for that, because there's no content other than a link; and in case the contents of that link changes in the future, there will be no valid answer for the question on Stack Exchange, so if you want to provide an answer, you must explain it in detail and add the reference to it in your post.
Or, a question of yours has been put on hold as unclear what you're asking, since there are no actual questions in that post. You've thought about a person and tried to describe her in two lines and a subject line. We cannot guess what you're thinking about. You should express yourself clearly to get a good answer.
Also do not forget that all the users get here for the effort they put in answering questions and maintaining the site, is reputation (+badges), they're not paid to maintain such a service, so there should be a rewarding system to demonstrate people's activity, and there's nothing wrong about that. If you think that reputation and tags are disgusting/disguising (?) you shouldn't be bothered at the down-votes that you receive.
Try editing your posts and adding more context to them, and voters should remove their down-votes. However, there are people who enjoy being sarcastic and mocking others in addition to trolling, and find the Internet and these websites a great place to do so. This shouldn't hold you back, because as I said, different people are different in many aspects and you see this in real life, as well. Do the right thing, flag and report the irrelevant content, and eventually if you're still getting harassed for any reason, flag the related posts for moderation attention, and they'll take care of it, if it's a rational report.
Answer: It couldn't be more obvious - the site you are looking for is ELL.
ELU has no connection to or involvement with beginners.
Comment: Yes it could be a whole heap more obvious. ELU does a very good job of keeping people away from ELL who might get better answers by asking their questions on ELL. If all the real English learner questions didn't come to ELU there'd be slim pickings for ELU and then there'd be one.
Comment: @Frank: Your first sentence is true though unhelpful: your second purely argumentative if not a peeve: your third barely comprehensible. And if you really think you could do a better job keeping ELL questions off ELU than the mod and others who have been trying literally for years, go ahead and make a constructive suggestion.
Comment: @TimLymington Neither argumentative nor a peeve, I don't care who asks what here, I just ignore the questions I want to, but there are people who would be better served by ELL and ELU makes no attempt to guide them there BEFORE they ask their questions.
Comment: I agree on point #2: `ELU does a very good job of keeping people away from ELL who might get better answers by asking their questions on ELL.` EL&U is the 'official' site; ELL is in 'beta'. The URL for EL&U is **english**.stackexchange.com; ELL is self-titled. EL&U appears on the first page of google results for searches that don't specifically include `ELL` or `ESL` terms; ELL does not appear on first page of many searches that do include those terms. The EL&U landing, ask & help pages do not mention ELL *at all*. EL&U is in the top of the Culture/Recreation list in the footer; ELL is absent.
Comment: Just noticed that the ['on-topic'](http://english.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic) help page does mention ELL, but that's far from a prominent mention.
Comment: The situation is simple. This site is not for ELL questions.
Comment: In your comment, you wrote "This site is not for ELL questions." Fair enough, as far as it goes. But if, as quite a few people have pointed out, the signposting of the ELL site is inadequate (or even non-existent) where it would be relevant for a person seeking to post an ELL-grade question, then that signposting clearly needs to be improved/made more prominent, or else put in place if it is absent. They can hardly be blamed for posting on ELU if the inadequacy of SE/ELU signposting means they have no idea of the existence -- or relevance -- of the ELL forum.
Comment: Hey Erik! Everything you say sounds 100% correct. {Perhaps technologically, need be a much simpler path "move this to ELL".}  And just TBC, if this was SimCity and I was the player, I'd *change the remit of this site to include ELL questions*. But as it stands, "The situation is simple. This site is not for ELL questions." the OP **has anger** and indeed **depression** about the current situation. (Re-read the original question up top!) In response to that anger/depression, the situation is remarkably simple, **HE ACCIDENTALLY HAS THE WRONG SITE**, it's a case of: "it's that simple, OP buddy!"
Comment: Note too that since this answer is voted down heavily, it is, obviously, the correct and full answer, given the usual famous inverse voting on this site :) The situation could hardly be more simple:  "I feel **degraded** by this site!" Answer: "Great news buddy, you've just come to **THE WRONG SITE**, you're looking for ELL."  Or, "I think that this site won't help beginners" (ie: the question title), Answer: "Great news buddy, you've just come to **THE WRONG SITE**, you're looking for ELL."  There are FURTHER ISSUES ARISING ("should we change the links etc"), but I've given the full answer.
Comment: Just TBC Oerk's answer (which is identical to this answer) is also perfectly correct -- the OP should tick it!


problem with external mics on h4n

Question: I have an H4n and set up for the first time yesterday with two external mics - worked fine.  Today i updated software and not sure if the problem is related, but when i choose '1 and 2' input buttons (rather than 'mic') on the front of the unit, I am not picking up any sound at all through the two mics.  I have the unit set up in stereo, and I was also wondering how to kill of sound pick up by the built in mics and use only my two NT5s.  I'm new to this and don't know where I've gone wrong but desperate to get it right! any suggestions?
Answer: Have you turned on phantom power? Perhaps phantom power was deactivated when updating the software.
If you select "stereo mode" and input 1 2 the internal mics should not pick up any sound, as far as I know.

problem with external mics on h4n


Anonymous user permission issue in SharePoint Server

Question: I am using SharePoint Server 2007 x64 and Windows Server 2008 x64. I have setup a site with template publishing portal. I have grant anonymous access to all the site.
My question is, if I create a new page, how to grant permission to anonymous user to access (read permission) the page? I got this confusion because, for the permission setting of a page, a permission is set according to a user name (e.g. read permission for user "foo" of a page). Since anonymous user does not have a related "user name", how could I grant read permission to anonymous user?
BTW: I use Windows Forms authentication and Windows NTLM authentication for my sites.
Thanks in advance,
George
Answer: Anonymous access relies on the anonymous user account on the Web server. This account is created and maintained by Microsoft Internet Information Services (IIS), not your SharePoint site. By default in IIS, the anonymous user account is IUSR_ComputerName.
Mikhail


Why are exotic options most popular in FX?

Question: I was reading Derman's latest blog post on Vanna Volga pricing, which, according to the linked Wikipedia article, is used mostly for pricing exotic options on foreign exchange (FX).  This Willmott thread claims most demand for exotics is by asset-liability, pensions, and insurance firms.  But this does not explain why most of the trading in these products is in FX, as opposed to equities, bonds, etc.  Why are these firms trading FX exotics, and, relatedly, why are they not trading exotics in other products?  Is it just the liquidity of FX vs. other markets, or is there a good fundamental reason for exotics to exist in FX and not in other markets?
Answer:
Liquidity
Since this is an asset class which is so tightly coupled with interest rates - it makes good products for clients inherently complex.
It also makes good sense to make wider markets for more exotic products than the plain vanilla ones - in which razor-thin spreads rule (and trading huge notionals is not everyone's cup of tea)
Answer: As I understand it, the currency derivatives are meant for customers to hedge actual exposure. A foreign distributor obviously has exchange-rate risk, but it's hard to say who actually has risk exposure to the S&P 500. (There's the effect of beta, of course, but it's pretty rare for someone to have tangible---not just CAPM---exposure to the S&P. Someone who holds the S&P does so intentionally.)
Fear not, though. There are a few OTC derivatives that are used in levered ETFs. Consider 3X Russell 2000 or Ultra NASDAQ 100, both of which list index swaps among their holdings.
Answer: Posting this question to a LinkedIn discussion group solicited the following additional answers:

The underlying is relatively well understood and simple in a pricing sense.  This allows you to put a complex (exotic) payoff on top.
The vast majority of FX spot volumes are spread among a small group of G-7 currencies, unlike equities or other markets where you have a myriad of different tickers.
No major barriers to the market / inside information / absence of manipulators (except for Central Banks who do not have speculative missions).
Pension and insurance firms are taking deposits in one currency which they invest in a different currency for carry/performance.  They only partially hedge their currency exposure using options, and sometimes exotic OTC options are designed in order to best fit their particular mix of assets and liabilities.

I do have my own question on point #2, though.  Aren't there relatively few highly liquid equity indices and fixed income futures?  Why don't we see more S&P 500 or US 10Y Treasury exotics?
Update: I actually like #4, which just came in from LinkedIn, best so far.  Basically, the real-world exposure of unsophisticated firms is complicated, and so they offload the complex hedging to a sophisticated counterparty.  This, combined with @chrisaycock's answer, completely answers the question to my satisfaction.


Eating fish and meat together

Question: The reason given for not eating fish and meat together is due to Sakana. In current times it does not seem to be a Sakana, (Nishtanu HaTeva). Would you be allowed to eat them together? If not - why not / If yes - why yes?
Comment: an interesting note is I have seen on packages of frozen meat that the fda suggests not cooking raw beef and raw fish together
Comment: @Dude Pics or it didn't happen.
Comment: @DoubleAA "[Use one cutting board for fresh produce and a separate one for raw meat, poultry, and seafood.](https://www.fda.gov/food/resourcesforyou/consumers/ucm255180.htm)"
Comment: IIRC the Rambam brings it down nowhere, and I've heard speculated that its for this very reason
Comment: @Ploni they don't recommend splitting meat and seafood
Answer: See the discussion here.  The Magen Avraham shrugs his shoulders as to why this prohibition became carved-in-stone halacha, but once it did, we accept it as such.
Comment: @Shalom I wholeheartedly disagree with your reading of the Magen Avraham as do i think the Mishna Berurah and Aruch Hashulchan did. My Rosh Yeshiva certainly did when I discussed it with him. What he added was that nowadays since people are definitely stringent, one should worry that the Teva changed back, or that in these places it never changed, which is what the Aruch Hashulchan might actually be saying. But the Magen Avraham was not saying to be machmir, he was saying one can be lenient and they can be eaten together.
Comment: @Shalom I think anyone I've shown the Magen Avraham/Mishna Berura to had never seen it. That's where the 'minhag' comes from:) But where are you quoting your reading of the M.A.? From the fact that people are still makpid? Not that you care what user6591 does but as of yet I've never had the Tayva for fish n' meat, but i have definitely used the same plate for both by kidushim and don't mind the meat sauces with anchovies, no tzaraas yet!!
Comment: @user6591 that's the way R' Schachter shlit'a reads the Magen Avraham as well: he's actually arguing and saying it's permitted. Many, though, still don't actually do it. Someone asked Rabbi Schacter at the practical level if he'd eat them together: *"well, my wife wouldn't serve them together!"* "Okay Rav Schachter, if you came to my house and we were serving fish-and-meat, would you eat it?" *"Well, I should ..."*
Comment: But then again, there is a flaw in the test called lashon hara. Don't know what to do about that. But don't you with we would care as much about that kasha lidavar acher as the fish and meat one?!
Answer: Dose of Halacha brings some sources for this debate and points out interestingly that while it is mentioned in the Shulchan Aruch, there is no mention of this in Rambam:

The Mishna Berura (173:3) and Aruch Hashulchan (YD 116:10) quote the Magen Avraham (OC 173:1) who writes that this is one of many natural phenomena mentioned in the Gemara that no longer apply. The Chasam Sofer (YD 101) suggests that this may be why there is no mention of this in Rambam.
Nonetheless, the Chasam Sofer concedes with the majority of poskim (Chochmas Adam 68:1; Maharam Shick YD 244; Kaf Hachaim OC 173:9), who write that this prohibition still applies even if we don't understand the danger (See Yad Ephraim 116:3).

Eating fish and meat together


Choosing a cheap lens for an entry-level Canon D-SLR

Question:
Possible Duplicate:
Canon Starter Level Lenses

I have a huge interest in photography, and my dad plans on buying me a Canon 550D. Which lens is suitable for wildlife, portrait, macro and landscape photography, but is available cheaply.
Comment: How much is your total budget?
Answer: For beginners, I always advice to pick the kit lens (18-55mm/18-135mm). This will help you learn the limitations and make your next lens purchase decision easier. There's no one-size-fits-all when it comes to lens and sooner or later, if you're serious enough, you'll end up getting several lenses, each for a specific use. Those who are nosy about getting a kit lens with their first DSLR, I suggest a 50mm f/1.8 instead, for the same reason I suggest a kit lens. For your convenience, I'll tell you what type of lenses are used for what.
For wildlife, you'll need a telephoto lens, preferably 300mm+ and at-least f/4.0 or bigger. For portrait, 50mm/85mm prime lenses are most popular, they have big fixed aperture i.e f/1.8 or bigger. Macro lenses are special lenses which typically have the ability to focus very close. Macro lenses are within 60mm to 180mm range, preferably f/2.8 and bigger. Landscapes need wide angle lenses, typically between 10mm to 18mm.
If you go through the specs of the kit lenses carefully, you'll see that they are designed to be as versatile as possible. You can do landscapes, portraits, flower-sized macro and (if you're lucky) some wild life as well.
Answer: Define "cheaper rate", what's your budget? That really matters. Special lens for wildlife are expensive. The same for macro, landscapes and portrait. Looking at your question, you want lens for almost all basic types of photography. We can't tell anything, without knowing your budget.
For example, a single 18-200 would do anything, but not as good as separate lens for each type of photography.
You just can't compare this lens with 50/1.4 or 85/1.4 for portraits, which are expensive.
The same with 300+ lems for wildlife, with f/4 or brighter (faster).
Macro - 105/2.8 - very good lens, but more expensive than the 550D.
Landscapes - fisheye? No? Vario? And you can't compare 18-200 on the 18mm end, with a 8mm fisheye or something wider. Basically, landscape lens are between 8-16mm.

For e beginner, I'd advise you to start with kit lens. For example, just with 18-55. Or, if you can afford it: 18-55 + 75-300 or 55-250. Or the Canon's 18-200.
If you keep shooting, you will, by yourself, understand the limitations of these lens. Then you'll know what lens you need, what's your favorite: portraits, landscapes, wildlife, etc.


How to get rid of black these black oil spots which a professional cleaning service said can't be fixed?

Question: I am using a Canon EOS 7D. But my photos have black spots in the same position. I tried sensor cleaning from a professional and the result is the same. He told me that it is due to oil spots which can't be cleaned. What should I do now?
Comment: I'm curious as to why the link to the example photo was edited out?
Comment: Can you post a crop at 1:1 pixel view?
Comment: @mattdm, why would you edit out the sample picture?  Does it violate some rule?
Comment: @JPhi1618 I didn't mean to -- my intention was to inline it. But then I realized it's not very useful at all as it is so i asked for the OP to provide a cropped view.
Comment: Are the spots just on the car?
Answer: In the image you included it's difficult to say exactly what the black spots are but more importantly where they are. We'll presume that the diagnosis is correct (oil, and uncleanable) but is it on the sensor or the low pass filter covering the sensor?
If you feel brave, stronger, cheap, or a risk taker you can look at this set of cleaning instructions from cleaning digital cameras and compare the advice with other sites to verify the suggested methods. You can also try sites like LifePixel which replace scratched low pass filters (for that camera) for U$250. Looking on the Internet for a replacement sensor (with LPF) it's going to cost under U$120 (without labor). There are  videos available showing sensor replacement if you're brave and have nerves of steel. None of the above DIY is "recommended", but it's possible.
It's also possible to take a photo of a white card and use dark pixel correction to fix every photo you take, it's a question of what level of perfection you want and how much time and money you want to spend. A little  use of the "Healing Tool" could fix that photo in a half minute, then it comes down to "how often do you use your camera?".
Answer: If a professional service says it can't be cleaned, your next step is to send it Canon for repair. It may be that they will need to replace the sensor, in which case the cost may exceed the cost of a replacement.
Comment: Definitely second the Cost analysis here-- I've cleaned my old camera myself a few times because it was more cost effective to buy a new camera if I damaged the old one than pay for the professional cleaning.
Answer: Based on several clues in the image, the photo was taken with a fairly wide aperture setting.
If this is the case, the hard outlines of the spots tend to indicate that whatever it is, it is not on the front surface of the filter stack in front of the sensor.
Normally, when we refer to "cleaning the sensor" what we are really talking about is cleaning the front of the filter stack that sits in front of the actual surface of the imaging sensor.
Because the front of the sensor stack is about 1-2 mm in front of the surface of the actual sensor, when wider apertures are used, the shadows of dust and other substances on the front of the sensor stack tend to be hazy and indistinct. To get sharp outlines a much smaller aperture needs to be used.
The example looks like whatever the substance(s) are, they are under the filter stack and directly on the surface of the sensor itself. To clean the area between the filter stack and the sensor requires a near total disassembly of the camera. The labor cost of such a cleaning is probably higher than the cost of a used 7D.
Answer: You have dirt on your sensor.  In the sample image you provided you can remove it with a healing brush (available in most decent editors).
See What is the best way to clean the sensor on a interchangeable lens camera (mirrorless or digital SLR)?
Comment: i want to fix the sensor. which would be the best way to do that?
Comment: @ManashKumarRoy - if you had the skills and equipment to do a repair or replacement of the sensor (something that wasn't in the question when I answered it) then you'd already know the answer.  It is not a novice job (unlike basic sensor cleaning in the related question.)


Is there a minimum start altitude for autorotation landings?

Question: If a helicopter is flying relatively low, say for sightseeing, can it still land using autorotation if required?
What about if there was an issue during a routine landing? Is there any cutoff point where autorotation is no longer feasible?
Answer: What you're looking for is the height/velocity curve, some times called the 'dead man's curve'. This shows the altitude and speed requirements for a safe autorotation, plus the height and altitude conditions under which an autorotation is probably not possible.
A lot of variables go into this, and the h/v curve is specific to the particular helicopter, and in particular, whether the helicopter has a high inertia rotor system or low inertia rotor system.
For example, the Robinson R22 has a low inertia rotor system, meaning that the rotor blades are fairly light, and thus don't have a lot of inertia to remain spinning in the case of engine failure. A similar size helicopter, the Enstrom F28, has a high inertia rotor system, so the h/v curve for the Enstrom looks quite different from the Robinson, but is somewhat similar to another popular high inertia helicopter: the Bell 206 JetRanger.
As the article notes, Robinson doesn't recommend a climb out under 45 knots speed, while Enstrom allows it at 17 knots. This limitation is governed by the h/v curve, not performance. While the Robinson could climb out at lower airspeeds, it wouldn't be safe in the event of engine failure.
Disadvantages of a high inertia system are that it uses more fuel, and is slower to accelerate under power in low rotor speed conditions (which are also potentially deadly).
Answer: There are different techniques for low altitude autorotations and high altitude autorotations.
If your altitude is low, you most probably have to land directly ahead and you will only have time to lower the pitch, flare, then use the last rotation on pitch to have power, then land the helicopter.
If you have altitude, you can direct the helicopter to where you have decided to land, you can use the airspeed and rpm of the rotor system to reach to your landing area with a safe airspeed for a flare and landing.
As far as I know there is no unfeasible point for a autorotative landing. A safe autorotative landing is completely about the airspeed and altitude which you had the engine failure and your landing area. High altitude autorotative landings may change your flare height.


How does a contract end?

Question: Assuming that I am a party to a legally binding contract with another party  how does it come to an end?
Answer: A contract can come to an end by:

Termination or Discharge
Termination ends the contract at a point in time and prevents further obligations on the parties but their rights and obligations up to the time of termination remain intact.

Performance: Each party has fulfilled its obligations under the contract precisely - close enough is not good enough. For example, if the contract required you to deliver tinned fruit in boxes of 30 you have not performed your obligations if you delivered the correct number in boxes of 24 (In re Moore & Co and Landauer & Co [1921] 2 KB 519). Performance must take place in the time specified or within a reasonable time if no time is specified. Note that if the contract includes goods and services guarantees then the contract does not end until these expire.
There are exceptions to the rule of precise performance:

where a contract is divisible - that is payment is due from time to time for performance of specified parts,
where partial performance has been accepted,
where performance is prevented by the other party,
where there has been substantial performance, for example, in a construction contract where the building is usable but contains minor defects.

Agreement by:

Substituted agreement which will need consideration on both sides, which can be each party releasing the other from any unfulfilled obligations.
Accord and satisfaction by one party purchasing release by entering a new agreement ("accord") for valuable consideration ("satisfaction").
Failure of a condition precedent or subsequent a contract may provide for its own discharge when a something that is required to happen before ("precedent") or after ("subsequent") the formation of the contract does not occur. For example, a contract to buy a car if it passes a mechanical test is a condition precedent while a contract entered on behalf of a corporation not yet incorporated fails a condition subsequent if the corporation does not get incorporated.
Election to terminate a contract may have a clause allowing a party to terminate it with or without conditions.
Abandonment if both parties 'walk away' the contract is abandoned.
Waiver one party may waive performance of the contract by the other party.

Breach by one party allows the innocent party to:

repudiate the contract and sue for damages for breach of a condition of the contract
repudiate the contract and sue for damages for breach of an intermediate term of the contract if the breach is serious enough
sue for damages for breach of an intermediate term of the contract if the breach is minor
sue for damages for breach of a warranty of the contract

A condition is a term of the contract that is so fundamental that a breach of it justifies termination. A warranty is a term that is ancillary and doesn't justify termination if it is breached. An intermediate-term is a condition or a warranty depending on the egregiousness of the breach. It can be difficult to determine if any given term is a condition or a warranty so anyone trying to terminate a contract for breach really needs professional legal advice because if they are not entitled to do so they will have breached the contract themselves - and in a big way.
A breach may come about in several ways including clear failure to perform, express repudiation by one party communicating an intention not to perform, or the action of one party rendering performance impossible. A breach may involve actual breach (actually failing to perform) or anticipatory breach (threatened breach through unwillingness or inability).
Lapse of time due to the operation of statutes of limitations. Strictly speaking, the contract becomes unenforceable rather than discharged because it becomes impossible to take legal action under it.
By operation of law for including:

Merger where a deed or judgment of a court swallows up the contract,
Material alteration of a written document by one party allows the other to terminate the contract
Death generally an estate is still bound by the deceased's contracts but not where the contract is one for personal services, for example, contracts with actors, chefs, babysitters, etc.
Insolvency personal bankruptcy or corporate liquidation can terminate a contract.

Frustration where a supervening event over which neither party has control and that the contract doesn't have a provision for ends the contract. Examples include that the operation of the contract becomes illegal, destruction of the subject matter of the contract, the circumstances of the contract cease to exist, the non-occurrence of a required event, a personal services contract being interrupted due to the incapacity of the person, government action.
The status-quo at the time of the frustration is maintained unless there has been a total failure of consideration. For example, if I am required to provide services for 1 month for which I have been paid in advance, I get to keep the money if I have performed any of the services but if I was to be paid on completion I wouldn't be entitled to any money even if I had provided the services for 27 days. Because the consequences of a common law frustration can be manifestly unjust, many jurisdictions have statutes that deal with frustrated contracts.

Rescission
Rescission is sometimes loosely used as a synonym for repudiation (see above) but technically, it refers to a situation where the courts will restore the parties to the positions they occupied before the contract came into existence. Rescission will not be granted where it would affect the rights of third-parties  It may be granted because of:

Mistake which is restricted, narrow and technical and does not extend to an error of judgment as to the value of the consideration they or the other party supply. Suffice it to say, you cannot escape a contract where you have underestimated the amount of work required or bought something a too high a price or sold something at too low a price.
Misrepresentation by one party which induces the other to enter the contract.
Undue influence where one party misuses a position of power over the other to cause them to enter the contract
Duress which forces a person to enter a contract against their will. The Godfather's "I gonna make him an offer he can't refuse" being the classic form.
Unconscionably  where a contract put forward by a party in a superior bargaining position is so one-sided that no reasonable person would agree to it.

The order of a court
A contract may be terminated by a court order such as one that might arise under consumer protection or unfair contract statutes.
Comment: Again, this is not correct. Breaching the contract does not have to end in suing.
Comment: Also, without more, the part that says the obligations must be performed precisely but is then followed a few lines later with an exception allowing for substantial performance is confusing at best to most readers. It's not necessarily inaccurate, but rather lacking appropriate context.

How does a contract end?


Something to keep the fizz of cola bottle

Question: I am looking for some trick or gazzette to keep a bigger bottle of coke longer so that it doesn't lose all the fizz everytime it's opened again! Something which could keep the CO2 longer so that a bigger bottle could be used longer?
Anything we have?
Answer: You can get a little pump that attaches to the top of the bottle.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jokari-Fizz-Keeper-Pump-2-Litre-Bottles/dp/B00004XSH3

It pumps in air to pressurize the bottle, thus preventing the carbon that makes the drink fizzy from escaping the liquid.
Comment: @bigbadmouse You are mistaken. There is no vacuum created. This pumps air ***into*** the container to conserve the high pressure to keep the CO2 in solution. The pressure is greater than the ambient. The containers are designed to be under pressure. You may be mistaking vacuum pumps for wine bottles which can withstand negative pressure without collapsing. Further, still wine must not pressurized. Sparkling wine is stored under pressure; (more pressure than this plastic pump can generate or hold) so try to re-cork it if you can to conserve it. Better; finish the whole bottle with friends.
Comment: They work, they aren't perfect but they make your fizzy drink last much longer.
Comment: I have one of these, the whole point is that it pumps air _out_ creating a vacuum
Comment: Must be different to that one. Those pump air in. If they pumped it out the plastic bottle would be crushed.
Comment: it would depend how far you pumped it - the liquid stops the bottle crushing in on itself
Comment: Consider when the bottle is only 10% full and you pump all the air out.
Comment: i agree, depends how much you pump out.; if you pump air out you create a vacuum; if you pump all the air our, the bottle will collapse until the liquid wont allow it to collapse any more . I don't see the point you make; if you wish your soda to stay fizzy using this device a somewhat un-aesthetically pleasing bottle is inevitable.
Comment: Does this actually work? I thought partial pressure gas laws meant the CO₂ would still escape, and would not be prevented by adding high pressure nitrogen/oxygen (air).
Answer: Its a bit more involved, but you can get a carbonator cap.  We use it in homebrewing to carbonate beer and to keep it carbed.  It allows you to hook up a co2 tank to a 2 liter bottle.  You would need the cap, a regulator and a co2 tank or cartridges.
cap: https://www.homebrewing.org/CarbaCap_p_108.html
co2 regulator: https://www.morebeer.com/products/co2-injector-ball-lock.html
Answer: Colas go "flat" because of loss of CO2. The only way to keep the CO2 in solution is to prevent it from getting out. While the bottle is sealed, the liquid reaches an equilibrium where the partial pressure of CO2 outside the liquid (but still inside the bottle - the little "air" space at the top) is equal to the partial pressure of CO2 inside the liquid.
As soon as the bottle is opened, the partial pressure of CO2 in the "air" space drops and you see CO2 effervescing from the liquid. This is the liquid's attempt to reach equilibrium again. While the cap is off, equilibrium will not be reached until the CO2 in the liquid is equal to that of ambient air (about 0.04% - aka "flat"). Putting the lid back on helps limit this process, but will NOT prevent the liquid from losing its "fizz". The liquid will reach another equilibrium point after some time at which, the concentration of CO2 in the liquid has dropped in order to stabilize the concentration of CO2 in the air space.
The pressurization gadget mentioned at the very top of the responses does NOT work at all as it does next to nothing to add CO2 to the air space. Ambient air is about 0.04% CO2. You will not be able to pressurize the bottle with enough air to prevent the release of CO2 from the liquid. Not possible.
The only way to prevent the liquid form going "flat" is to introduce CO2 at the same rate at which it leaves. This means you need a system that injects CO2 into the bottle as the liquid is poured out. I'm not aware of anything that does this at the moment.
Comment: Hi Mit, Welcome to Lifehacks.StackExchange. We hope you enjoy sharing knowledge and experience. You can find out more about the site by visiting the [help] and https://www.lifehacks.meta.stackexchange.com
Comment: Is cola acidic enough to breakdown seashells?
Answer: The best way to keep 2ltr cold drinks fizzy is to save 4 x  500ml water bottles and transfer the drink into those. Huge price saving as well over the 500ml soda.
Answer: If you buy your soda in a big plastic bottle, I recommend squeezing out as much air as you can before you screw the cap back on. My theory is that the carbonation wants to leave the soda, but if there is nowhere for it to go (no big pocket of air in the bottle), then the carbonation will stay in the soda.
(I'll determine whether my theory is right by the number of thumbs up and thumbs down I get on this answer.)
Comment: I think this is counterproductive, because carbon dioxide is kept in solution at an equilibrium based on pressure. If you squeeze out the air in the bottle, the soda will lose more carbon dioxide before pressure begins to build and equilibrium is reached.
Comment: I'm up-voting you back to zero as I see no difference at all between your method and the air removal pump method - except yours is cheaper.
Comment: @Stan Makes sense, now that I think about it.  Thanks.
Comment: Sorry Brett, but piojo is correct. Squeezing the air out is worse than simply recapping the partially-filled bottle for the reason piojo gives.
Answer: A bottle of soda will lose it's fizz if it is opened when warm,so when you decide to open a large bottle,the first thing to do is to refrigerate it. When the bottle is cold, you can open it and pour the soda. Don't let it get warm after you open it. Pour the soda, re-cap it,then put the entire bottle back in refrigerator. From then on,the way to pour servings of soda will be:

take bottle from refrigerator
pour soda
re-cap bottle
put bottle in refrigerator
Comment: This is essentially piojo's answer in point form.
Comment: I'm all for explaining the chemistry behind things,but this exchange is Lifehacks and not Chemistry. I don't think a chemical explanation is supposed to be here.
Answer: We all know that for each time it's opened some fizz escapes. Reducing the number of times it is opened (or handled) therefore reduces the amount of fizz escaping.
One way for a larger bottle to retain fizz can therefore be to divide the contents into several smaller bottles, so as to reduce the number of openings before actually being consumed.
Note that this should be done with the beverage being as cold as possible to reduce loss of fizz when pouring to the other container(s).
Answer: Keep the bottle cold and in an upright position. If you drink the coke within a day or two, it will keep fresh and sparkling, and you should hardly notice the difference.
Tip: The more coke there is inside the bottle (and the less air), the less CO2 will escape from the coke and into the (closed) bottle while it is stored in the fridge (results from Henry's law). Pour over coke from a half-full bottle over to a smaller container (or into another half-full bottle of coke, to fill one single bottle), and you will save space and loose less sparkling gas.

Some theory
CO2 "evaporation" is a result of the gas trying to reach an equilibrium between what is solved in the liquid (coke) and what is in the air above (Henry's law).

Keep in mind:

Less CO2 escapes if the temperature is kept low (CO2 is more 'soluble' in low temperature, and less will escape from the liquid)
Less CO2 escapes if the bottle is kept upright (smaller surface area than when the bottle is laid down, so this will slow down the 'evaporation' process)
Less CO2 escapes if the bottle is almost full (smaller 'air' volume to fill with CO2 escaping from the liquid)

Also remember:

The moment you have opened a bottle of coke, then non-sterile air from the surroundings mixes with the content inside the bottle. An opened container will only keep fresh (without growth of bacteria or fungus) for a limited number of time (a week or two).
Answer: CO2 cannot escape if the gas pressure in the bottles open space is high, it does not matter if the gas is air, or CO2.  Pump in some regular air pressure and it will keep the CO2 from escaping.
I'm sure someone sells a device that will allow one to pressurize the bottle and thus keep the CO2 from escaping out of the drink.
Here is a link to a device sold at a major retailer to pressurize a soda bottle with regular air and it saves the carbonation.
By the way, I ordered two of these today I can use them.
Comment: That answer has already been given.


Better Mailing List Filter Management for Gmail

Question: I once subscribed to so many mailing lists looong time ago, and then I filtered those emails and grouped them into a sort of organisation/based on my interest, but then when I got time I unsubscribed from those many mailing lists.
Is there a way to know in Gmail whether a filter I have is used or not used by matching criteria?
I love Gmail ajaxified labels feature nowadays, it supports total emails that belong to one label. If only filter also had that feature, I could've managed my filters better, I would know if a filter is still being used by (to filter) important emails then I won't remove it, I know if a filter was used by a mailing list that I'm no longer subscribed (in another word, filter that is not used), then I can delete that filter so I won't have hundreds of filters, so that I can manage my filters better.
Here is what I usually do, but I consider this really unproductive, I believe Google should have been able to make this user experience much better,
Settings > Filters, I click edit on one of my filters, then click next, then I check/see the emails that belong to that filter, if those emails are important, could be emails from a mailing list I'm still interested in, then I'll let that filter "alive", but if I see there is no mail (from a mailing list) at all belong to this filter, and also if I had unsubscribed from the related mailing list, then I remove the filter.
It would be cool if I see total emails that belong to one filter on Settings > Filters, if I see zero then I can remove it, because I'm sure I've unsubscribed to the filter I remove.
Any enlightenments? I may be missing one of cool Gmail labs as I don't always keep watching them.
Answer: Old question ... but for the record the new Gmail solves this elegantly!  Now, when you click 'Edit' on an existing filter, watch it populate the search criteria and display all matching emails.  Great unified UX for searching and creating/editing filters.
Answer: Probably you should check my Chrome extension that automatically fills "From", "To" and "Subject" fields when you create a new Gmail filter from existing email.
It is useful if you have a big flow of emails and create filters often. It is absolutely free and actually I did it for my personal purposes, but probably somebody will find the extension useful too.
Take a look at the screenshots to understand how it works:
Extension page: http://www.gmailfilterex.com/


What medicine ball exercises specifically help soccer players?

Question: What specifically is built up using medicine balls for soccer? What exercises can build up core strength for soccer?
Answer: Here's a video that really outlines a lot of the exercises that will help. I have done some of them myself to condition for being a keeper. These all should be of great help to gaining core strength.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZZMcIo6-A8
For some more specifics, here are some of the ones that I trained with and found to be most beneficial:

Lie on your back with your legs straight. Use both hands to hold a medicine ball above your head and barely off the floor. Simultaneously raise your torso and bend your right knee toward your chest as you bring the ball over your knee and toward your foot. Reverse the movement and repeat, this time bending your left knee.
Do a normal crunch, but hold the medicine ball behind your head and hold it above the ground.
Doing a normal crunch, but simultaneously throwing the medicine ball to a person standing at your feet. Then, have them toss the ball back and lay back flat. I usually did this with a teammate at our practices every day for about 20 reps. I can attest to its effectiveness in giving me more strength for throws and dives as I am a keeper.
One of the best ones I found: Hold your legs straight up in the air and a medicine ball behind your head. Reach for your feet with the ball and reach back.
I would also do about 15 throw ins with the medicine ball, then 15 with a normal game ball and repeat this a couple times. I found it to really increase my accuracy and distance when throwing in. It may be extremely helpful depending on your position.

Here is a link to a sight containing other exercises, but these four were the ones I would do the most.
http://www.menshealth.com/fitness/ultimate-medicine-ball-workout?fullpage=true
Hope this gives you a better, more accurate idea of what helps with building core strength.
Answer: We had a fitness coach from Derby County speak to us at work and he said that he got the players core fitness and balance to improve by throwing a medicine ball to each other while sitting and balancing on a exercise ball (the big blow up types). He said at first they would practice balancing and after a week or 2 introduced the ball. Apparently they got very proficient and became quite a fiercely competitive game with harder and harder throwing which just shows how much this would have worked! Just balancing and sitting on an exercise ball requires good core strength but also throwing a heavy medicine ball at the same time is on another level.


Why did Vader go ahead of the stormtroopers when attempting to board the Tantive IV in Rogue One?

Question: When Vader first attempts to board the Rebel Blockade Runner at the end of Rogue One, we see Vader board first. After he slaughters several Rebel soldiers, we see that his Stormtroopers have come behind him. Now this is the exact opposite of what happens at the beginning of A New Hope; the Stormtroopers go ahead of Vader and several of them get killed.
Comment: My gut instinct is because he's in a hurry the first time around, boarding with his troops via shuttle but can board the Tantive IV at his leisure in the latter film since it's completely enveloped by his Star Destroyer.
Comment: @Thomas - Vader's barrage had already resulted in the reactor being disabled. - *""Did you hear that?" he inquired rhetorically of his patient companion, referring to the throbbing sound. "**They've shut down the main reactor** and the drive."*"
Comment: @Valorum I thought it the very opposite there. He had an enemy ship disabled in rogue one so he had more time there.....in new hope he had an enemy ship who could overload its reactor any time sitting in his hangar.....I dare say time was of essence almost more so in the second situation.
Answer: Darth Vader is not afraid of a couple of Rebels... and he doesn't board Tantive IV until Tatooine.
The MC75 cruiser Profundity, owned by Admiral Raddus, was the ship that received the "stolen data tapes."  It's disabled by the Star Destroyer Devastator, at which point Vader and stormtroopers board to locate the data.
At this time, the Empire is not aware of the blockade runner located in the docking bay of Profundity.
Once Darth Vader becomes aware of Tantive IV, he figures out where the tapes are going, and makes a mad dash to catch them;  he's in front of his stormtroopers because he doesn't have time to wait.  He's got the skills and speed to mow through a handful of retreating troops scrambling to evacuate... but even with his head start, he comes up short at the airlock as Tantive IV escapes.
The situation is way different when they've caught up with the blockade runner and board her.  For one, he's not chasing after a few scrambling rag-tag rebels throwing wild shots behind them.  Darth Vader is boarding an enemy ship, from a known entry point, through unknown defenses, with defenders who are expecting him, and who have entrenched defenses, and unlike before, he doesn't know where exactly the tapes are.
Sure, Vader is such a bad-ass he could probably have pulled a Kool-Aid man and charged through the door, but it's way more prudent to let a Forlorn Hope squad through at first, to breach the doorway and set up a beachhead.  He'll need a lot of troops to search the ship, anyway.
Answer: We're most likely never going to see that missing 10mins between Rogue One and New Hope, but I thought this was strange at 1st too (Mostly because of my lust to see Vader slaughtering people). Then it hit me though, Vader boards with a party of a couple small ships. The Tantive IV jumps to into hyperspace with Vadar watching still on the rebel ship that the Tantive IV detached from right? In New Hope the Tantive IV is pulled in by a tractor beam of a Star Destroyer. So connecting the dots, the Tantive IV makes the jump, the Star Destroyer immediately follows, Vader has to return back to his ship, make the jump himself and because he's a few mins behind, shows up a little late to the party. Which explains why the stormtroopers have complete control of the ship before Vader gets there.
Answer: One thing to keep in mind is also the personality of Vader. He is still like Anakin. Thus he does not lead from the safe back but instead from the front. And his fall to the dark side also brought out more brutal tendencies than anything else...thus he is even more prone to lead from the front.
In rogue one the ship is boarded after getting disabled. Vader naturally was among his men there and boaded the ship. Rushing towards the data as fast as possible when he found out where it was. Then it escaped.
As he had to reach the rebel flagship with his troops it can be assumed that they used shuttles to do so. Thus he had enough time to land/board at the same time as his troops.
The next time the Tantive IV was seen was over Tatooine. Here though it was different from before. We see the corvette get disabled and docked within mere minutes. During the fight we CAN assume that Vader was on the bridge and when the corvette docked he was on his way to the docking ramp (probalby first waiting to make sure not another surprise happens). As no time was to be wasted though the stormtroopers boarded the corvette as fast as possible.
So in essence.....the difference is a matter of time. In rogue one there was more time between disabling and boarding the ship so Vader successfully made his way towards the enemy ship at the same time as his troops. In a new hope there was not enough time for him to get from the bridge onto the enemy ship before his troops already boarded it (and they had to board it immediately.....letting an enemy ship sit within ones hangar even disabled could get the said enemies to get wrong ideas like overloading their reactor to take the star destroyer out with them, ...).
At least that is the impression I got from watching both films (never read the novels, so not 100% if the "time difference" also comes up in them or not).
Answer: According to the official novelisation, Vader actually boarded behind his troops when they entered the Profundity (as he did again when they boarded the Tantive IV), but proceeded alone when he caught a whiff of the Force, leading him toward the stolen transmission. His troops are heading toward the bridge but Vader decides to follow his own path which is where we pick up the action in the film.

Vader's shuttle as Vader and his squad rode to the flagship. Vader
felt fear then, too, vast and powerful and purer than that which
emanated from the cruiser. When his vessel reached the flagship and
his stormtroopers burned their way through the hull, he started toward
the rebel bridge and then pivoted.
Perhaps instinct guided him. Perhaps something more. It did not occur
to him to wonder. He sent his troops to continue on his prior path and
moved on alone.
The corridor lights flickered while alarms blared. Trapped in the
blood-red chamber of his helmet, Vader was troubled by neither. He
attuned himself to emanations of panic and desperation and followed
their trail. When he encountered rebels reaching for their blasters or
dashing to seal blast doors, he drew his weapon and cut them down with
unhurried strokes of his crimson blade.
Rogue One: A Star Wars Story - Official Novelisation


Why doesn't new dimmer switch brighten completely?

Question: I just replaced an old Pass and Seymour slide dimmer switch with a Lutron single pole switch with a side toggler. I'm using incandescent bulbs. The new switch dims the lights fine, but when I slide all the way to the top, the light is not as bright as it was with the previous dimmer in max position. I'd estimate it's 70-80% of previous max brightness. Any idea why this happening?
Comment: It is phantasmagorically difficult for human eyes to detect light levels in absolute measure, because they are so good at auto-adjusting to conditions.  Hell, eyes [*automatically white-balance*](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_dress).  So unless you are using competent *test instruments* in equal conditions (e.g. moonless night vs moonless night), this *could be entirely in your head*.
Comment: @JimStewart that is not wholly meaningful on a sine wave which is being misshapen by a triac.  You need something smart enough to measure both voltage and current on the whole sine wave.
Comment: My Fluke 115 true rms reads 109.0 V at the base of a kitchen light fixture on a Lutron dimmer on full brightness. Nearby receptacles give 118 V. I'm not going to try to read the input voltage at the dimmer, at least right now. Can this be right?!
Comment: Buy new LED BULBS with a higher lumen level and adjust as needed.
Comment: @Harper Why do you need to measure current? The voltage and current should have the same clipped sinusoidal waveform. Cut off voltage with a leading or trailing edge triac and you have no current during the periods where voltage is clipped to 0.
Answer: Many new dimmers are designed to "save energy" by limiting the full brightness to 80 or 90% of actual full brightness. Some of them have a hidden slider to adjust the top end. You'll have to either shop for a different dimmer or put up with it.
Comment: Our 4 year old Lutron dimmer in the kitchen has a single slider adjustment under the bezel for the minimum brightness. It has no adjustment for the maximum. The kitchen dimmer was put in at the same time as new ceiling light fixtures so I cannot tell if the lights are as bright as they would be with a simple switch.
Comment: @DoxyLover Thanks for the answer. I didn't even consider that it was energy saving. Will see if I can adjust it. Otherwise will buy something else.


Preventing a Stuck Sparge

Question: What steps pre-mash can be taken to limit the likelihood of a stuck sparge?
Answer: Get the right crush
This is the single most important thing to prevent a stuck sparge. Read the HomebrewTalk's wiki page on evaluating the crush.  An ideal milling breaks the internal bits of grain into a coarse powder while leaving the bulk of the husks intact. It is the husks that do the most to set up a good filter.

(source: homebrewtalk.com) full size
Use a good manifold design
A large area covered by the manifold or pick-up, spaced evenly across the bed. A few, or a single, pick-up may lead to channeling, which compacts the grain bed. John Palmer covers this topic in his book How to Brew. His findings are the result of experiments he designed with fish tanks and dyed water.

(source: howtobrew.com)
Other things

Sparge slowly Take at least 30 minutes to rinse the grainbed.
Mash out Raising the mash temperature (168°F) not only stops enzymatic reactions, it makes the mash liquid flow more easily.
Keep the grainbed wet Always have an inch or two of water above the grainbed. If you let sparge water run too low the top may compress.
Rice hulls Available at most any LHBS, they add no flavor and increase the filtering capability of the grainbed. After you crush, mix the rice hulls into the grain.
Comment: I want to  brew with you.
Comment: It is extraordinarily glamorous to brew with me. ;-) Just give me two weeks notice before you knock on my door.  Or, I'm going to NHC & GABF this year. You?
Comment: I live in Denver. So GABF for sure. I might try to hold a Breakfast and Brewing that week.
Answer: One thing I have noticed with some of the recipe kits is that they don't always separate the adjuncts from the grain. Running flaked maize, wheat or oats through a mill is a guaranteed stuck sparge. Make sure that the more non-grain ingredients in the recipe the more attention you pay to volume, mash thickness, sparge temperature and flow rates. I think its mentally less frustrating to deal with if you know from the recipe that the probability of getting stuck is higher. Rice hulls are a must, get a big bag and keep them around.
Comment: Good point about thickness. More water in the tun helps prevnt the onset of a stuck sparge.  By the time you finish vorlauf the grainbed should be well set and thickness matters less. I disagree about keeping rice hulls on hand. I've never had to use them. Never had a stuck sparge.

Preventing a Stuck Sparge


Vedic management about finance

Question: Vedas say u must acquire wealth by good deeds, conserve and distribute wealth but it said u shouldn't be passionate. If someone is not passionate about his dream how can he make his dream complete to earn money?
Comment: I think you are talking about Upanishads specifically. Vedas are full of Mantras to obtain wealth and material like this: `Through Agni man obtaineth wealth, yea, plenty waxing day by day,
Most rich in heroes, glorious.` Rigveda , Book 1, Hymn 1
Comment: Which Veda says it and where?
Comment: Passion is from rajas property.Vedas said dont be passsionate be satvic that dont expect result means dont be result centric.
Answer: One of the places where the duties of a householder are iterated is the MahaNirvana Tantra. You can read it here in Chapter 8 - https://archive.org/details/MahanirvanaAvalon
Swami Vivekananda writes a summary translation of the same here (Complete Works, V2, heading Karma Yoga, sub-heading Each Is Great In His Own Place - http://www.advaitaashrama.org/cw/content.php)

All the men and women, in any society, are not of the same mind, capacity, or of the same power to do things; they must have different ideals, and we have no right to sneer at any ideal. Let every one do the best he can for realising his own ideal. Nor is it right that I should be judged by your standard or you by mine. The apple tree should not be judged by the standard of the oak, nor the oak by that of the apple. To judge the apple tree you must take the apple standard, and for the oak, its own standard.
Unity in variety is the plan of creation. However men and women may vary individually, there is unity in the background. The different individual characters and classes of men and women are natural variations in creation. Hence, we ought not to judge them by the same standard or put the same ideal before them. Such a course creates only an unnatural struggle, and the result is that man begins to hate himself and is hindered from becoming religious and good. Our duty is to encourage every one in his struggle to live up to his own highest ideal, and strive at the same time to make the ideal as near as possible to the truth.
In the Hindu system of morality we find that this fact has been recognised from very ancient times; and in their scriptures and books on ethics different rules are laid down for the different classes of men — the householder, the Sannyâsin (the man who has renounced the world), and the student.
The life of every individual, according to the Hindu scriptures, has its peculiar duties apart from what belongs in common to universal humanity. The Hindu begins life as a student; then he marries and becomes a householder; in old age he retires; and lastly he gives up the world and becomes a Sannyasin. To each of these stages of life certain duties are attached. No one of these stages is intrinsically superior to another. The life of the married man is quite as great as that of the celibate who has devoted himself to religious work. The scavenger in the street is quite as great and glorious as the king on his throne. Take him off his throne, make him do the work of the scavenger, and see how he fares. Take up the scavenger and see how he will rule. It is useless to say that the man who lives out of the world is a greater man than he who lives in the world; it is much more difficult to live in the world and worship God than to give it up and live a free and easy life. The four stages of life in India have in later times been reduced to two — that of the householder and of the monk. The householder marries and carries on his duties as a citizen, and the duty of the other is to devote his energies wholly to religion, to preach and to worship God. I shall read to you a few passages from the Mahâ-Nirvâna-Tantra, which treats of this subject, and you will see that it is a very difficult task for a man to be a householder, and perform all his duties perfectly:
The householder should be devoted to God; the knowledge of God should be his goal of life. Yet he must work constantly, perform all his duties; he must give up the fruits of his actions to God.
It is the most difficult thing in this world to work and not care for the result, to help a man and never think that he ought to be grateful, to do some good work and at the same time never look to see whether it brings you name or fame, or nothing at all. Even the most arrant coward becomes brave when the world praises him. A fool can do heroic deeds when the approbation of society is upon him, but for a man to constantly do good without caring for the approbation of his fellow men is indeed the highest sacrifice man can perform. The great duty of the householder is to earn a living, but he must take care that he does not do it by telling lies, or by cheating, or by robbing others; and he must remember that his life is for the service of God, and the poor.
Knowing that mother and father are the visible representatives of God, the householder, always and by all means, must please them. If the mother is pleased, and the father, God is pleased with the man. That child is really a good child who never speaks harsh words to his parents.
Before parents one must not utter jokes, must not show restlessness, must not show anger or temper. Before mother or father, a child must bow down low, and stand up in their presence, and must not take a seat until they order him to sit.
If the householder has food and drink and clothes without first seeing that his mother and his father, his children, his wife, and the poor, are supplied, he is committing a sin. The mother and the father are the causes of this body; so a man must undergo a thousand troubles in order to do good to them.
Even so is his duty to his wife. No man should scold his wife, and he must always maintain her as if she were his own mother. And even when he is in the greatest difficulties and troubles, he must not show anger to his wife.
He who thinks of another woman besides his wife, if he touches her even with his mind — that man goes to dark hell.
Before women he must not talk improper language, and never brag of his powers. He must not say, "I have done this, and I have done that."
The householder must always please his wife with money, clothes, love, faith, and words like nectar, and never do anything to disturb her. That man who has succeeded in getting the love of a chaste wife has succeeded in his religion and has all the virtues.
The following are duties towards children:
A son should be lovingly reared up to his fourth year; he should be educated till he is sixteen. When he is twenty years of age he should be employed in some work; he should then be treated affectionately by his father as his equal. Exactly in the same manner the daughter should be brought up, and should be educated with the greatest care. And when she marries, the father ought to give her jewels and wealth.
Then the duty of the man is towards his brothers and sisters, and towards the children of his brothers and sisters, if they are poor, and towards his other relatives, his friends and his servants. Then his duties are towards the people of the same village, and the poor, and any one that comes to him for help. Having sufficient means, if the householder does not take care to give to his relatives and to the poor, know him to be only a brute; he is not a human being.
Excessive attachment to food, clothes, and the tending of the body, and dressing of the hair should be avoided. The householder must be pure in heart and clean in body, always active and always ready for work.
To his enemies the householder must be a hero. Them he must resist. That is the duty of the householder. He must not sit down in a corner and weep, and talk nonsense about non-resistance. If he does not show himself a hero to his enemies he has not done his duty. And to his friends and relatives he must be as gentle as a lamb.
It is the duty of the householder not to pay reverence to the wicked; because, if he reverences the wicked people of the world, he patronizes wickedness; and it will be a great mistake if he disregards those who are worthy of respect, the good people. He must not be gushing in his friendship; he must not go out of the way making friends everywhere; he must watch the actions of the men he wants to make friends with, and their dealings with other men, reason upon them, and then make friends.
These three things he must not talk of. He must not talk in public of his own fame; he must not preach his own name or his own powers; he must not talk of his wealth, or of anything that has been told to him privately.
A man must not say he is poor, or that he is wealthy — he must not brag of his wealth. Let him keep his own counsel; this is his religious duty. This is not mere worldly wisdom; if a man does not do so, he may be held to be immoral.
The householder is the basis, the prop, of the whole society. He is the principal earner. The poor, the weak, the children and the women who do not work — all live upon the householder; so there must be certain duties that he has to perform, and these duties must make him feel strong to perform them, and not make him think that he is doing things beneath his ideal. Therefore, if he has done something weak, or has made some mistake, he must not say so in public; and if he is engaged in some enterprise and knows he is sure to fail in it, he must not speak of it. Such self-exposure is not only uncalled for, but also unnerves the man and makes him unfit for the performance of his legitimate duties in life. At the same time, he must struggle hard to acquire these things — firstly, knowledge, and secondly, wealth. It is his duty, and if he does not do his duty, he is nobody. A householder who does not struggle to get wealth is immoral. If he is lazy and content to lead an idle life, he is immoral, because upon him depend hundreds. If he gets riches, hundreds of others will be thereby supported.
If there were not in this city hundreds who had striven to become rich, and who had acquired wealth, where would all this civilization, and these alms-houses and great houses be?
Going after wealth in such a case is not bad, because that wealth is for distribution. The householder is the centre of life and society. It is a worship for him to acquire and spend wealth nobly, for the householder who struggles to become rich by good means and for good purposes is doing practically the same thing for the attainment of salvation as the anchorite does in his cell when he is praying; for in them we see only the different aspects of the same virtue of self-surrender and self-sacrifice prompted by the feeling of devotion to God and to all that is His.
He must struggle to acquire a good name by all means. He must not gamble, he must not move in the company of the wicked, he must not tell lies, and must not be the cause of trouble to others.
Often people enter into things they have not the means to accomplish, with the result that they cheat others to attain their own ends. Then there is in all things the time factor to be taken into consideration; what at one time might be a failure, would perhaps at another time be a very great success.
The householder must speak the truth, and speak gently, using words which people like, which will do good to others; nor should he talk of the business of other men.
The householder by digging tanks, by planting trees on the roadsides, by establishing rest-houses for men and animals, by making roads and building bridges, goes towards the same goal as the greatest Yogi.
This is one part of the doctrine of Karma-Yoga — activity, the duty of the householder. There is a passage later on, where it says that "if the householder dies in battle, fighting for his country or his religion, he comes to the same goal as the Yogi by meditation," showing thereby that what is duty for one is not duty for another. At the same time, it does not say that this duty is lowering and the other elevating. Each duty has its own place, and according to the circumstances in which we are placed, we must perform our duties.
One idea comes out of all this — the condemnation of all weakness. This is a particular idea in all our teachings which I like, either in philosophy, or in religion, or in work. If you read the Vedas, you will find this word always repeated — fearlessness — fear nothing. Fear is a sign of weakness. A man must go about his duties without taking notice of the sneers and the ridicule of the world.
If a man retires from the world to worship God, he must not think that those who live in the world and work for the good of the world are not worshipping God: neither must those who live in the world, for wife and children, think that those who give up the world are low vagabonds. Each is great in his own place.

You then ask how can a person who is not passionate achieve his dream? Krishna addresses this in Chapter 2 of the Gita. The Lord says to Arjuna (Swami Nikhilananda translator):

v3. Do not yield to unmanliness, O son of Pritha. It does not become you. Shake off this base faint-heartedness and arise, O scorcher of enemies!
v31. Considering, also, your own dharma, you should not waiver; for to a kshatriya nothing is better than a righteous war.
v33. But if you refuse to wage this righteous war, then, renouncing your own dharma and honour, you will certainly incur sin.
v38. Regarding alike pleasure and pain, gain and loss, success and defeat, prepare yourself for battle. Thus you will incur no sin.

To not be passionate for fulfilling your world duties is to incur sin. Don't be attached, be unattached to the pursuit of wealth, but don't be faint-hearted.

Vedic management about finance


quorum-maker-no web UI is exposing on any host ports after creating nodes

Question: Im trying to deploy contract using quorum-maker, I've followed every step as mentioned in wiki, but still not able to connect web UI and have no idea where Web app is deployed(in wiki. http://10.50.0.2:22004).
BTW I'm trying on GCP instance and AWS instance also. here is my docker ps status.
Answer: If you are running in your local machine , then try accessing the UI make on 0.0.0.0:22000 and replace 22000 with the port number for the node you want to see the UI maker .
In case you are running on any cloud services, try to check that
1. IP is publically accessible.
2. Ports are open and listening.


Can I play an instant when my opponent taps their lands to cast an instant?

Question: I have a Creature spell and Duress in my hand, I cast the creature spell. My opponent starts tapping lands to cast a counter spell on the stack. Can I interrupt him and cast Duress to make him discard the instant card from his hand?
Comment: I assume you don't want your creature countered? Not a rules answer, but a suggested strategy: play Duress *first*, he responds by either wasting mana to counter your Duress, or by simply allowing it to be discarded. Then cast your creature. But if you've already cast your creature spell, there is nothing you can do to save it.
Comment: I guess you're a decade or two too late to play an interrupt.
Answer: To answer the titular question:
No, you can not play an instant when your opponent taps mana to cast an instant.
This when a player is allowed to preform a certain action is a fairly in depth topic, and if you want to learn more about it I would recommend the following sources:

In plain English, how does casting spells and using creature abilities work with the stack and priority?
Magic's Comprehensive Rules

However to summarize, you can not cast an instant "in response" to your opponent tapping their lands because of two reasons:

You do not receive priority (and therefore can not act) until after your opponent finishes casting a spell. This is outlined throughout 601.2 (Rules for casting a spell) with the relevant part here (Italicized text mine):

601.2i: Once the steps described in 601.2a–h (Steps to casting a spell including, paying costs and choosing targets) are completed, effects that modify the characteristics of the spell as it's cast are applied, then the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell's controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.

Mana abilities (such as tapping lands) do not use the stack and can not be responded to. This is outlined here:

605.3b: An activated mana ability doesn't go on the stack, so it can't be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated. (See rule 405.6c.)

To address the specific example in the body of your question, No you can not cast Duress to force your opponent to discard the counter spell before he finishes casting it. In addition to the reasons above, you can not cast Duress in response to anything as it is a sorcery. Sorceries may only be cast during one of your main phases when the stack is empty (Comprehensive Rules 307).
Comment: @corsiKa Even if it was possible to cast duress at instant speed, or had Extirpate, it isn't possible to remove the counter spell from the opponents hand once they start casting it. You **can't** cast instants at anytime, you may only cast instants **when you have priority**. Once someone starts casting a spell, you don't have the ability to respond until after they are finished casting it and give you priority.
Comment: You could - although let's be honest, you'd not want to commit to casting the creature first - you'd just Extirpate and look at the opponents hand to make sure your creature is the creature you really want to cast. I mean, if you're good enough to pre-empt a counter spell like that, you're good enough to cast them in an order to maximize your strategic value.
Comment: He could use Quicken to make Duress an instant. But he can still respond to Duress and counter the spell, so... I suppose it the factors aligned perfectly he could Extirpate? But wow we're talking "two decks of cards shuffled the same way" kind of odds now.
Comment: In regards to #1, it's also not clear from the OP that he had started to cast a spell. If he was just tapping lands; without having announced that he was casting a spell, then you _would_ get priority, except for the fact that tapping lands for mana is a mana ability.
Comment: good point! You're super hosed in every situation short of your opponent making a massive play mistake.
Comment: If you are precognizant, or extremely paranoid, it is possible to pre-empt a counter spell. If you cast your creature, **hold priority**, and then cast extirpate naming the counter spell, that would remove it from your opponents hand without them being able to cast it. But you would need to know they had it first.
Answer: No, you cannot cast Duress in this situation to remove the counter spell.
First, Duress is a sorcery, not an instant.
Secondly, once an opponent begins to cast a spell, you can't stop that spell until it is out of their hand and on the stack.
Third, even if you somehow could cast Duress as an instant, you cast your creature and say as you're casting it "... and I'll hold priority", and cast Duress, they could still cast their counterspell, since your Duress has to resolve before it can remove the card from their hand.
Answer: No, because tapping a land for mana is a "mana ability", which does not use the stack and cannot be responded to.

605.1. Some activated abilities and some triggered abilities are mana abilities, which are subject to special rules. ...

605.1a An activated ability is a mana ability if it meets all of the following criteria: it doesn't have a target, it could add mana to a player's mana pool when it resolves, and it's not a loyalty ability. (See rule 606, "Loyalty Abilities.")

605.3b An activated mana ability doesn't go on the stack, so it can't be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated. (See rule 405.6c.)
Answer: Almost all sources of mana are mana abilities and as such can not be responded to.
A small number of abilities that generate mana are not "mana abilities" for various reasons, 'though. For example Deathrite Shaman's first ability is not a mana ability, because it requires a target.
That means if you opponent used that ability to get some mana, you could respond to that activation with an instant of your own (not with Duress, though, since that's a Sorcery).


Apache multiple ldap groups

Question: I am configuring Apache to authenticate against LDAP and require multiple groups to be present. I have done this with require statements, however I need the authentication to be successful if all groups are there and not just one. How do I tell Apache to go through all require statements?
Answer: You cold try the "Satisfy" apache directive, e.g.: satisfy all.
Otherwise you could modify your filter to require the groups, e.g. <code>(&(ou=foo)(ou=bar))</code>
Answer: "Satisfy" won't work here because that only governs the interaction between "allow" and "require", not between multiple "require" directives.
If your LDAP has memberOf attributes (you can enable those with the memberof overlay in OpenLDAP), you can use "require ldap-filter" to require membership in more than one group.
Unfortunately, memberOf doesn't replicate reliably as of OpenLDAP 2.4.31, so don't rely on it if you also use syncrepl.
Answer: If you are using an ldap service that supports nested groups, you could create another group that contains the required groups, then have apache reference that group instead.  Then when updating any of the original groups, the nested group is automatically updated.
This may not be an option for you, however.

Apache multiple ldap groups


Does Raspberry Pi Zero have a polyfuse?

Question: The question says it all. If you have a definite answer, it would be great if you could post a photo of the pi zero, where the fuse is pointed out.
Comment: Questions are not for answers
Comment: OK, should I create a new answer from it, and remove the answer? I am not sure.
Comment: It is entierly valid to answer your own question. It would be even better to edit the current answer, since you got the info there, but you might be a tad low on reputation.
Comment: OK; I just moved it into the answer part. Thanks for the hint.
Comment: This looks much better and readable. Nice job
Answer: The Pi Zero does not have a fuse (polyfuse or otherwise).
See this Raspberry Pi org forum post.
Also see these limited schematics.
Answer: NO polyfuse for raspberry pi zero
Thanks to Joan I got the information to complete this request.
Here are the schematics for the power supply of both raspberry pi Zero and PRI 3, .
Raspberry Pi Zero without fuse:

And Here for comparision RPI3 with polyfuse:
Comment: So: on the bright side the RPi Zero is not going to suffer from volt-drop to the same extent when power is drawn from the +5V pins on the GPIO connections...!
Answer: It does not have a polyfuse, but good fuses are cheap. If you want a fuse, use a nice glass fuse:

Or a tiny fuse:

To check if you've popped it, just use an ohm measurement. You also do not have to waste a day or more praying that your polyfuse has saved you.
Or add your own polyfuse:
Comment: Of course you will have to use the _right_ fuse (for a fuse of current rating Iₙ you will need to draw at least 2 * Iₙ and possibly more to get it to fuse in a _reasonable_ time) and as far as semiconductor equipment with a glass/ceramic fuse you can often find that the circuit will work fine without any of that nasty _volt-drop_ associated with _poly-fuses_ - it is just that in the event of an over-voltage or down-stream overload the semiconductors protect the fuse by burning out in an _open-circuit_ manner so as to not cause the fuse to blow... 8-P
Comment: @SlySven Yes, a fast fuse. The right fuse. I like glass-case fuses in proper fuse mountings. Polyfuses are silly.

Does Raspberry Pi Zero have a polyfuse?


What jutsu did Minato use on Naruto?

Question: I wanted to ask if anyone knew what jutsu Minato used on Naruto in episode 442 of Shippuuden. I understand it is a filler episode but I was curious. Minato uses it on Naruto while breaking up his fight with Sasuke. At 6 minutes 33 seconds Minato places a flat palm against naruto and sends him flying. No hand signs are shown and no rasengan chakra ball is shown either.
Comment: When exactly did he use the jutsu? do you maybe have a time stamp?
Comment: Maybe that just Chakra Burst ? Not a jutsu, but just expeling chakra from his hand. Similar how Ninja can jump so high.
Answer: its probably the jutsu he is most known for... the flying rajin jutsu... its why they call him the yellow flash. bascially this jutsu works by sending somthing minatos chakra is in contact with to another location using a specialy placed seal or marked kunai. minato has already placed several seals around the village in case he ever needs to move somewhere quickly and he sends naruto to this seal when he places his hand on him... as for the no handsigns minato is a hokage level ninja.... his hand signs are too quick for average ninja to see.

What jutsu did Minato use on Naruto?


Worried about oxidation

Question: I'm brewing my second batch and had a bit of an accident yesterday. I brewed 20l two days ago and when I checked my fermenter (bucket) yesterday it had overflown. I don't know what possessed me to open the lid and clean in, instead of just cleaning the mess and airlock, but I did. The bucket was open for maybe 10-15mins. I did clean and sanitize both lid and airlock, so hopefully there's no contamination, but I am worried about oxidation. Should I be? When and how will I know if it happened? Is there any way to fix it?
Answer: It's fine. I assume the beer is still actively fermenting, in which case not only will freshly-produced CO₂ (somewhat) displace the O₂ in the headspace, but the yeast can still clean up any O₂ that does dissolve into the young beer.
Many high-gravity beers actually forcibly inject O₂ during the early stages of fermentation to get a solid ferment.
RDWHAHB.
Comment: I checked the fridge again last night and it smells amazing, so I think you're right!

Worried about oxidation


Why is ether divisible to 18 decimal places?

Question: 1 ether is 10^18 wei, the smallest denomination. Why does ether have such a high degree of divisibility?
Comment: Is this a question about historical decisions or the benefits/drawbacks of having 18 decimal places?
Comment: @TaylorGerring primary about the design rationale behind this decision and the benefits/drawbacks
Answer: Vitalik had the foresight to realize one day, most financial institutions, corporations and people would utilize ethereum.  To a further extent, alien races and far away worlds may also want to utilize ethereum.
While the current financial market cap of all value including derivatives in the financial world are in the trillions (1,000,000,000,000), if not, hundreds of trillions (100,000,000,000,000) or more.  Our total population in the billions (8,000,000,000).  Accounting for additional neighboring planets and yet to be discovered M-class planets, the only rational thing to do was provide ether the room to grow to it's true potential.
Allowing for 18 decimal places was the only way to move forward.  This will allow ethereum to one day achieve it's true market cap and be utilized within our known universe by all species capable of building a computer and communicating through the inter-web to participate in universal-commerce without fear of being scammed.
Comment: epic answer.. really :)
Comment: When you make a space and computationally inefficient solution, prone to numerical inaccuracy, with poor UX (hard to read and fit), that is incompatible with most systems (IEEE 754) for the sake of a hypothetical future in a 1000 years
Comment: yes, I also think that 18 decimals thing is just to prepare for the far future (or near future, I'm not sure).
Comment: Good idea! When the coin gets expensive it won't have big transaction fees
Comment: @Dominic when at IBM, I was programming a demo system for CITIGROUP, there were BigIntegers and BigDecimals, too. So you shouldn't be so sure I think =) So Vitalik hasn't touched the infinite sky that I dream to touch with HTTP://infinitesimalium.i2p/ (almost empty site at the time of writing, nothing interesting.) =) I would like to implement ANY mathematical infinities.
Comment: This is hilarious
Comment: Please upvote this comment if you like the answer. By this, the number of upvotes of this epic answer can stay at 42. Thanks.
Answer: I do not know for sure, but it makes lots of sense that if doing fixed precision arithmetic, 18 decimal places is exactly the amount of precision that fits in a 64 bit signed long when storing the inverted basis to prevent any rounding issues. So, if it were me, I would have made it 18 decimal places for exactly this reason.
Similarly, if you are doing fixed precision arithmetic by storing your value in a signed 32 bit integer and expect to carry 2 decimal places like most currencies and you want an even power of 10 as your maximum global limit, then 21 million is your number, which coincidentally is what Satoshi used.
Comment: I love that this answer addresses the mathematical reason while @high110 answer addresses the philosophical reason. Math and Philosophy the two strongest tools we have. Beautiful.
Answer: Applicability
In addition to Xilis' answer:

Ether itself has 18 decimals, most ERC-20 tokens simply follow that standard.
1 ETH is represented by 10^18 of its natural unit ( 1 Ether = 1,000,000,000,000,000,000 wei ).
This offers you much greater precision - essentially, you aren't limited to trading the equivalent of a cent ($0.01 for example), you can go much, much lower. It means you can own - actually own, and have full control of - a very small portion of a whole Ether. Might not be so relevant today, but it might be in the future; in case the trade value rises dramatically, you would still be able to buy, own and use the system, without any changes.

Solidity assumes 1e18 to be 1 ether as referenced Here.
Interoperability
As referenced in a post here:

It makes math work out really really well when interchanging with other systems.
If you have to restrict the precision for some good reason, try instead restricting the divisibility of the transfer functions. For example, only increments of 1000000 can be transferred gives the same effect as using fewer decimals than 18, but still retains the convection of putting the point at the 18th decimal place.


What's the proper way to muddle mint for a julep or mojito?

Question: Not a huge fan of the mojito, but my wife loves 'em. A good julep is another matter... But mine have a bad tendency to end up with lots of little mint pieces that get stuck in my teeth. So what's the proper way to prepare the mint in these drinks without ending up with a green leafy mess?
Answer: The classic mistake when making a Mojito or a Julep is to over muddle the mint. Pounding away at the mint will release so much flavour from it, that you won't taste any of the other ingredients. A perfect Mojito should comprise a balance of flavours. The other main constituents do not have a particularly strong flavour, so its very easy to swamp them with mint and end up with a glass of alcoholic toothpaste. Mojito = Rum, Mint and Lime. Julep's are a little more tolerant, due to the richer flavours of the other ingredients, but the same basic principles still apply.
Don't overdo the amount of mint you add. Leaves from one decent sprig of mint will do. Muddle the mint gently for about ten seconds. You want to bruise the leaves and release a little bit of flavour, but not grind them into a pulp.
Finishing off a Mojito properly is also essential. You only need a splash of soda. Adding more than a shot will just dilute the ingredients and destroy the subtle flavours. Most importantly, don't forget to taste the drink after you've made it, even if its for someone else! This is the best way to learn and improve your mixing and muddling techniques. It is also sometimes possible to rescue an imperfect drink (eg. by adding a touch of extra lime juice if its too sweet) if really necessary.
Comment: it's also key to leave half the lime in the drink. the lime peel's oils are key to the flavor. it takes up space, but it's worth it.
Comment: Leaving the lime in the drink (or even going as far as muddling with the lime) is an optional extra. But you've still got to be careful not to overpower that gentle white rum.
Answer: It's best to use a wooden pestle, but the back end of a wooden utensil can get the job done.  Muddle the lime and sugar in the bottom of the glass first.  The goal is to get a good syrup.  Put a bit of mint (2 leaves) in last and lightly muddle so as not to break them up into bits.  Add your ice to the top of the glass.  Add your Rum, and then add your Club Soda then mix by moving your utensil up and down through the ice.  Add a couple of mint leaves during this process.  The ice will help bruise the mint during the mix.  Finally, take about 12 mint leaves in your hands.  Clap your hands together to bruise the leaves helping to induce the mint juice/flavor out. (I'll bet that rolling pin method would work well here).  Jam the leaves down the ice with your utensil.
Answer: When we make mojitos, we put the lime, sugar, and mint into the glass then crush it with a wooden spoon. Do this separately for each drink.
This is pretty time consuming which isn't a problem when you're making 1 or 2 glasses. If you're making more, you may want to use another method.
Answer: I haven't had to muddle mint but I found this forum that tells you how. It says to bruise the mint but not to break it up. They recommend using a muddler, a pestle or the end of a rolling pin or the back of a spoon.
Answer: This site makes a case for not muddling the mint at all; muddled mint can give "really muddy, dirty flavors," according to their expert, Leo Robitschek of The NoMad and Eleven Madison Park in Manhattan. If you're looking to avoid bits of mint in your teeth, they have two suggestions:

Make a mint simple syrup by "steeping mint leaves in hot water for about 5 minutes, and then mixing the strained liquid with equal parts of sugar for a simple syrup" or, alternately, cold-steeping mint in simple syrup for a few days

or

Make mint burbon in an iSi whipped cream canister using what they call the Dave Arnold method:

We use 35 grams of mint leaves in 1 L bottle of bourbon. Charge the canister twice with nitrous oxide and allow it to sit for 5 minutes. This ensures that the nitrous travels through the canister into the mint leaves. The infusion actually happens when you vent (release the nitrous gas) the canister. The nitrous rushes out into the bourbon, bringing all of the sweet aromatic compounds in the mint, and infusing it into the bourbon. The great thing is that using this technique eliminates any bitter, muddy, or tannic flavors that you may get from muddling or over extracting mint."
Answer: Actually the right way to make a mojito is bruising the mint.
A lot of bartenders just use a couple of stalks of mint and slap it. Mint (as some other herbs) have microscopic hair, which releases the aromas as soon as they are bruised. Muddling as correctly said will release rather woody flavors (I probably would not call it dirty flavors, but well...).
The stirring with sugar - will further draw more aroma out of the leaves (the sugar cristals act like "sandpaper"). It is important to understand, that a Mojito should not be an insanely minty drink, but just supposed to have some fresh (slightly minty) facets.
I also would not make a syrup out of mint, as warm water (or long steeping) completely changes the flavor of mint as well - then it would taste like mint tisane (and a mojito shouldn't taste like peppermint tea)!
For a mint julep, mint leaves can be very carefully muddled (as you don't usually take the full sprigs but the leaves, you cannot really slap the mint in your hands). Again - no "mint juice" should be created, just the microscopic hair should be bruised.
I also made a contemporary mint julep, by freezing the mint leaves in liquid nitrogen, then infuse them in bourbon - then fine strain everything into crushed ice (which you could also "powder" with LN2). You have got a more intense, but still fresh minty flavor without woodiness (as the enzyme which creates the off-flavor is first "fixed" with the deep temperature, and then deactivated with the high proof alcohol.
Comment: ok, that last thing is unexpected - sounds like you're managing to make an extract without the chlorophyll / "herbal tea" flavors. How much exposure to bourbon does this require?