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You are correct you can not expect a monoflo tee to supply a loop of baseboard. What should be done is to put the loop on it's own zone.
Hi all,
It's my first time posting here and hoping I can get some guidance before I start asking local professionals.
I bought a home in CT 3 years ago and am disappointed with the heating in one zone. The last set of baseboard takes till the end of the boilers cycle to get warmed up on one side of the house.
Its a hot water boiler hydroponic system with baseboard (fins). There are 4 zones (1 indirect hot water) (3 living areas)
Boiler is Burnham Oil fired. Main loop in basement starts with 1.5 black pipe into expansion tank down center of basement then splitting off to the multiple loop and mono flo zones. There are some check valves in this area but dont recall the placement. The primary loops (front ½ of house and back ½ of house have their own loops at the split that return to the boiler) supplying the monoflos is 1 black pipe coming off the 1.5 with multiple mf and regular Ts coming off for each baseboard. The return going into the boiler passes through the circulator pump which is flowing towards the boiler.
The main living area on the main floor (split level ranch) is a mono flo system. The other two are loops for the bedrooms and downstairs.
I think they screwed things up when they designed this system because its my understanding you dont want a long line of radiators on a monoflo system and that last line near the end of the main loop is over 60 of baseboard before it drops back down. (this is the line that is forever cool near the end till the end of the boiler cycle (15 minutes or so).
Theres part of me that just wants to scrap the whole monoflo system and go with a loop but not sure if its a wise decision because one side of the loop (series) is almost double the length of baseboard as the other side.
I just feel like this is a very inefficient use of heat. The basement is always toasty because of all the heat running through that main loop but the main floor is slow to warm up at the far ends. Ive bled all the lines till the valves were dripping so I know its not an issue of an airlock. Ive also checked all the direction of the monoflos to make sure they were installed correctly and they all seem to be right.
Coming from my old house which was much simpler (1 zone series loop) it always warmed up much quicker and the slantfin was always hot to the touch. This system it seems the heaters just never get that hot.
Technician during last cleaning changed (increased nozzle size) some nozzles sizes on the injectors thinking this would help for some reason but the only thing it seems to have done is use more fuel (maybe in my head but last year was warmest on record and we used same gallons as previous year.)
Ill try and draw up a diagram of the plumbing tonight and post it tomorrow as Im sure the description above is somewhat confusing.
To add fuel to the fire, Im debating on converting to gas from oil soon so will be replacing 25 year old boiler and hot water system. Want to make sure Im not just wasting $$ on new equipment that runs through a possibly poorly designed heating system.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Even if its just guidance on what to look for in choosing a professional.
You are correct you can not expect a monoflo tee to supply a loop of baseboard. What should be done is to put the loop on it's own zone.
Just be aware that when breaking out a 60' chunk of low-mass fin-tube baseboard into it's own zone it's micro-zone, prone to short-cycling the boiler. Even with the smallest oil boilers out there running 180F AWT that zone can only emit only about half the boiler's burner output, and at lower temps (or bigger burners) it's even less. If it's cast iron rather than fin-tube it has at least some amount of thermal mass, but whether it's enough depends on the thermal mass in the boiler, the burner size, and the amount of hysteresis in the boiler controls.
This is also an issue when you swap out the boiler for a gas-fired unit, either modulating-condensing or cast-iron. A mod-con running under outdoor reset control for more condensing efficiency can short-cycle itself into an early grave with low-mass microzones. Whether mod-con or cast iron it's important to pick the very smallest unit that actually meets the design condition load unless you add thermal mass to the system.
Since you have a history of fuel use on the oil boiler, it's possible to work backward from fuel use and the boiler's steady-state DOE combustion efficiency to put a firm upper bound on the whole house heat load at the 99% outside design temperature. If your oil supplier stamps a "K-factor" on the billing, the K-factor on a mid or late winter bill has all the information we need other than your outside design temp. If you are too far from any of the CT locations in the ACCA Manual-J list (linked to above), it's pretty easy to estimate an outside design temp with a zip code using Weatherspark.com's historical data.
If your toasty basement is currently uninsulated, the heat loss out the basement could easily account for 25-30% of your total fuel use, so don't be afraid to undershoot a boiler sizing number derived from a fuel-use analysis. (And if it's mostly unfinished, even with condensing-gas it's cost effective to insulate the basement. Check other threads here on how that's best done without creating mold problems, or start a new thread under "remodeling" or something.) In many cases it's cheaper to insulate the basement than to rip up an existing hydronic heating system and start over. If the basement still overheats you can insulate the pipes too, but the better bang/buck on fuel use is to start by insulating the foundation walls along with insulating/sealing the foundation sills & band joists first.
thanks for the info. Hadn't thought about insulating the walls. The basement is prone to water issues which I am still tackling. (long story and getting longer but there is hope still.) Anyway, the walls are cinderblock and I've painted them with the water proofing. I'll search out the links for insulating them so again thanks.
Question though, if I insulate the basement and it's already warm won't it just get warmer? I understand that I'm getting heat loss through the walls but how does that affect the upstairs if the basement is sealed off other than warming the floorboards?
First time posting a pic here but hopefully it works. That's the layout for my current setup. You can see that long 60'+ section which is slantfin. Not sure if that whole system can be converted to a loop in series.
If you insulate the basement and seal/insulate the band joists the heating system will run less often- it may be somewhat warmer or somewhat cooler, but you'll be burning a LOT less fuel. Warmer floors on the first floor lower the amount of heat that needs to be delivered by the radiators & baseboards, so it's something of a balancing act.
When I sealed & insulated the basement walls to ~R18 in my Worcester, MA house the average mid-winter temp in the basement bumped up from ~65F to ~68F, but the shoulder-seasons the basement dropped a bit under 65F due to the lower duty cycle of the heating system. Previously it would be warmer than 65F in the mid-fall or mid-spring seasons, cooler mid-winter due to the higher heat loss, a fraction of which was air leakage at the band-joist/foundation sill & elsewhere. Now the biggest heat loss out of the basement is through the slab to the ground, but that's WAY below what the wall + leakage loss had been. YMMV, but for most 1 or 1.5 story houses in this region foundation wall losses & leakage are more than 15% of the heat loss, and if your basement is running in the mid-70s during the heating season it would be almost surely be more than 20%, probably more than 25% of the total heat loss/fuel-use.
Deal with the bulk water issues first, but there are good/better/best ways of dealing with wall insulation, all involving at least some amount of foam (rigid &/or sprayed.) Exterior sloping & drainage are job-1, and it may take a buried skirt of roofing-membrane attached to the foundation sloping away to redirect surface water sufficiently far away from the foundation:
Sometimes it's necessary to jackhammer out an interior perimeter drain sloping to a sump to bail. If the basement has a history of flooding it doesn't mean you can't insulate, but it does affect your options.
Converting to a series loop may end up with even worse balance problems than you have now, and should only be done after a thorough analysis by a competent hydronic designer. (I'm pretty good at hackin' with the napkin-math on hydronic systems, but I'd probably hire this one out rather than guestimating and hacking it into balance.) If it's just the fin-tube zone that's out of balance, treating that and that alone is probably do-able. If it's possible to cut in a ball valve on the parallel section of the main loop between tees to/from the fin tube you could force more flow in the fin-tube, at the expense of lower flow elsewhere. It may work fine that way, but that's strictly in the nature of a hack, not a well-designed solution.
Cutting the fin-tube free and capping the Tees, and putting the fin-tube on it's own circulator as a micro-zone would surely work from a heating point of view. You'd need to deal with the short-cycle aspects, but that's a tractable design problem.
Part of the reason the baseboard section stays cool until the end is that while radiators put out heat in proportion to their temp- even when they're only 90F and rising it's radiating, whereas fin-tube falls off pretty sharply below 110F or so since nearly all of the heat transfer is via convection, which requires bigger delta-T between room & water temp. North of 120F it's pretty similar to other types of heat emitters in terms of linearly increasing output with temperature. If it were cast-iron baseboard it would do better, but that's not to say it would still be well balanced with the rest of the zone. (Replacing it with brand new cast-iron baseboard would run at least a couple of grand, but probably less than a grand if you went with reclaimed goods. But that's still not likely to be enough on it's own.)
Boy are your posts long boring.
Unfortunately mine isn't an issue of surface water but rather ground water. House was built 60 years ago on top of a stream bed they diverted but the ground water is still there. Footing drain was root bound so replaced that. Issue with backup from street storm drain (am installing a backwater valve in basement at footing drain. Already existing sump so I'm good there and the only thing left is to build up the apron at the end of our driveway to prevent water from entering towards the house. (almost there.....)
Briefly did some checks on insulating with insulation board. I don't plan on ever finishing the basement so it looks like my best option is to get one of the non flammable types (Thermax or Tuff-R). Just measured and looks like I have about $750 for a cost of 1.375" foam so not too bad. Will consider for this heating season but still want to investigate the change of the current setup. Going to start looking for local companies to come in and give me some quotes. I'd do it all myself but I need the right design.
thanks again
The issue with Thermax and other fire-rated iso is that the polyisicyanurate is hygroscopic, and will take on water if submerged, and will even (very slowly) wick water. If you go that route, stop with the iso several inches above the high-tide mark. Also, 1.375" goods are only about R8-R9, and at the price of oil going R12+ would still be cost-effetive long term. It's also important to air-seal & insulate the foundation sill to the top of the iso after the fact. A pro would run you ~$2.50 per square foot for 2" (R12) of closed cell polyurethane, maybe even more/sq.ft. if it's a tiny job, but it's also not rocket science as a DIY for small jobs using a 600 board-foot 2-part foam kit (Fomo-foam, TigerFoam, etc.), which works out to about $2.50/sq.ft for 2" as well, but you can do it on your schedule.
Some good tips for DIY installation of fire-rated iso on foundations can be found on this blog:
with some editing & repeats here, and here.
If you went with EPS (expanded polystyrene beads) or XPS (extruded expanded polystyrene) the tolerance to liquid water is 1000x better, but it would require an ignition barrier (half-inch gypsum or half inch OSB/plywood) to meet code.
There are multiple sources in southern New England for reclaimed roofing iso at a fraction of the cost of virgin stock, (eg: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/mat/3242658674.html or http://providence.craigslist.org/mat/3234444099.html or http://newhaven.craigslist.org/mat/3229579666.html Insulation Depot in Framingham MA, but that too would require an ignition barrier. I too have groundwater issues with the slab at below the local water table during the spring snowmelt, with an underground stream/spring flowing along the north edge of the house.
I went with 3" reclaimed roofing iso (R18) at $20/sheet for 4' x 8' (I've seen it as low as $15). I mounted it with 1x furring through-screwed to the foundation with 5" TapCons, and put up half-inch gypsum as the ignition barrier. The insulation and gypsum both stop ~8" from the floor (more than 4" above the highest ever mark), and put in 10" PVC-composite kickboards at the bottom. It's more labor, but significantly less cash outlay than fire-rated iso using the Hilti plastic fasteners the way Marc Rosenbaum (the blog guy) did it.
Thanks again for the info. Just sent an inquiry to the New Haven Craigslist listing. As you can imagine I've been prowling all over looking for board and was a little deterred by the price. I didn't realize the thermax would absorb water. Don't want to go that route. I may end up with the EPS or XPS and just deal with framing it out and throwing sheetrock over it. I don't have any good feelings about using Tapcons through the block. I've seen some holes in this block that have dripped water when it's really wet in the spring and would prefer not to test fate. I may just frame to ceiling and down to floor using pressure treated for the bottom plate. Good idea on the PVC trim although since I won't finish the basement I may just have a wallboard seam 8" above the floor so if things got bad I could just replace the wet area. Who knows, if my fixes to the basement water system hold up I may end up finishing part of the basement anyways.
thanks again!
Thermax will only absorb water if the bottom edge is submerged or resting on a constantly wet surface. The absorption rate is quite low, but so is the drying rate.
If you frame out an interior-side studwall to trap the foam, put an inch of XPS or EPS between the bottom plate of the stud framing & slab and TapCon it to the slab. The foam keeps water from wicking into the wood, and it keeps the temperature of the bottom plate above the summertime dew point (or at least close to the room temp), to limit mold & rot potential. Reclaimed & surplus EPS is dirt cheap, and going with at least 3" (~R12) is recommended, 4" (R16) if you have the space. ($4/gallon oil makes even 5" cost effective, but that's probably hard to retrofit.)
Seal the seams of the foam with duct-mastic or expanding 1-part foam (eg. Great Stuff)- tapes & caulks don't stick well enough. At 4-5" it's still vapor-permeable enough that the block can still dry toward the interior, but since the masonry is fairly moisture tolerant it does'nt need to ever dry super fast. Some people tack dimple-board type vapor barrier underlayment between the foam and the foundation wall, but if the studwall has no cavity insulation and no interior side vapor barrier, the studs will track the humidity of the basement, not the foundation.
If the basement never floods you could go with 2" of EPS and put UNFACED batts in the studwall, which would end up at about R18 (after the thermal bridging of the studs is factored in.) If EPS, don't go less than 2" with a batt-insulated studwall, since at 2" or less its fairly vapor permeable, and the stud edges would be cold enough in winter that the wood would collect moisture when the foundation is wet.
Not sure regarding materials. The link you sent for craigslist insulation says that it's Poly ISO. would that be EPS or XPS? 2" or more? I'd prefer to not encroach too much into the space so would prefer 2".
Here's my thought and you tell me if this is bad. Was thinking after placing 2" foam against foundation and taping all edges with recommended materials use 2x4 ripped in half as stripping then using R11 in the cavity and cover with drywall. Otherwise maybe 2x3 with R13. This way I'm only coming in 2+1.75+.5.
Another question: I haven't found a lot of info as to what to do around the boiler in the basement. How do I insulate the wall where the vent goes out to the chimney on that exterior wall?
I'm on the shoreline in CT so it doesn't get too bad down here temperature wise in the winter.
I can see several possible issues with the MonoFlo system, which are installation errors.
1. MonoFlow systems depend on the "flow resistance" between the tees be almost equal to the pressure drop through the radiation. You have several areas where the tees appear to be almost adjacent to each other. If they had to be that close together they should have either placed an elbow between them or used two MonoFlow tees to increase the flow resistance.
2.This requirement appears to be exacerbated by connecting a "loop" to the MonoFlo system.
3. Regardless of how you pipe the system, if there is not enough heat in the water to last till it flows through the final radiation, it will not heat. The water has to flow faster and/or start out hotter so it lasts till the end of the system.
4. Those two "center sections" which tee off on the right hand piping, but connect back AFTER other connections, especially the one having the problem, are starving those areas, because a MonoFlow system DEPENDS on the diverted water returning to the main BEFORE it encounters another MonoFlo tee.In other words, you cannot "stack" the feed tees and then connect them back further down the line.
5.what is the temperature of the water when it returns to the boiler, compared to what it starts out into the system?
Last edited by hj; 09-15-2012 at 08:55 AM.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
I can't measure the temp currently since "fortunately" heating season hasn't started yet. By memory I can say that the main basement loop supply the monoflo T's is hot till right before the last T that brings the largest loop back into the system (right before the circulator.) On the boiler side of the T it stays cold for most of the boiler cycle. Only near the very end does it start to heat up into the boiler. The loop on the other side of the house gets hot pretty fast as it gets to the circulator.
I was puzzled as I mapped out the multiple lines criss crossing the loops. It took a while to see where everything was going. I'm amazed that everything other than that last bottom largest loop works as they do. Just wish they would get hotter.
Dana, any chance you got to see the post above from 9/14? I'm wondering if this would work and if the foam shown on Craigslist is good at 2" thickness.


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If you look at your private messages, you'll see I moved your original thread where it is likely to get more help.
Well, I'm back ... same problem different year, and I'm going crazy.
We have a 280' deep well with a 3/4 hp Gould pump, in the basement. The pump shuts off, but only after it runs for 1/2 hr or so. We lowered the switch setting to 17-37 because it seemed to take forever to go beyond the 37 psi level. Needless to say, our pressure sucks.
When we run the outside hose with the water wide open it loses pressure after a while and water slows to almost a trickle.
Do we need a new pump ... new well (nooooooooo)?
I know nothing about the insides of the pump, but I'll tackle anything (as long as it's explained sorta like a Dummies for Pump parts book).
Thanks guys, ahead of time, because I LOVE this website. I tell everyone about it.
If you look at your private messages, you'll see I moved your original thread where it is likely to get more help.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014
1 - Pump is going bad, (impellers & or motor)
2 - Well is going bad (no water, no recovery)
3 - Pump screen is plugged ( sediment )
4 - Pretty bad leak in the line ( may be at the pitless gasket )
All 4 require the pump coming up out of the hole.


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- Accessible bathroom
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- In-room accessibility
Policies & Fees
- Check-in
Check-in time starts at 3 PM
Special check-in instructions:
Please note: The waterpark is open 2 PM-5 PM Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; 11 AM-1 PM and 3 PM-5 PM Saturday and Sunday; closed Tueday and Thursday. Schedule is subject to change without notice.
- Check-out
Check-out time is 1 PM
- Payment types
Accepted at this hotel: American Express, Carte Blanche, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
- General
Extra-person charges may apply and vary depending on hotel policy.
Government-issued photo identification and a credit card are required at check-in for incidental charges.
Special requests are subject to availability upon check-in and may incur additional charges. Special requests cannot be guaranteed.
- Fees
- The following fees and deposits are charged by the property at time of service, check-in, or check-out.
The above list may not be comprehensive. Fees and deposits may not include tax and are subject to change.
- Late check-out fee: USD 25.00
- Additional Details
This property offers transfers from the airport (surcharges may apply). Guests must contact the property with arrival details before travel, using the contact information on the booking confirmation. Reservations are required for massage services and spa treatments. Reservations can be made by contacting the hotel prior to arrival, using the contact information on the booking confirmation. Only registered guests are allowed in the guestrooms. Some facilities may have restricted access. Guests can contact the property for details using the contact information on the booking confirmation.


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Christmas, Valentines Day, Birthdays… why doesn't Hallmark make a 'Happy Trade Deadline Day' card? It truly is the most wonderful time of the year, wouldn't you say? Instead of the normal Monday Morning Round Up post, I thought this week I'd do a special Trade Edition round up. You'll get your weekly does of Admirals news, but then you'll see some unique perspectives from around the league on the trades that happened before the deadline struck 3pm.
Here in Milwaukee… (via Milwaukee Admirals Examiner)
Special teams key to Admirals 4-1 win over Abbotsford (February 24th)
Admirals fall 2-1 in shoot out against Ice Hogs (February 25th)
Milwaukee tops San Antonio 3-1; gets 5 of 6 points on the weekend (February 26th)
Trade deadline day deals…
MON trades F Andrei Kostitsyn to NSH for a 2nd pick in the 2013 NHL Draft and a conditional 5th round pick.
Andrei Kostitsyn's addition bolsters Nashville's group of forwards (Jim Diamond, Nashville Predators Examiner)
A family reunion is underway in the Music City, as Nashville traded two draft picks for current Predator forward Sergei Kostitsyn's brother Andrei. My fellow examiner Jim Diamond takes a look at the trade, as well the impact it'll have in the Preds locker room.
BUF trades Paul Gaustad and 4th round pick to NSH for 1st round pick.
What Paul Gaustad brings to the Nashville Predators (Dirk Hoag, ontheforecheck.com)
The Gaustad deal was a last minute deal just before the deadline hit. I was surprised that Nashville gave up a first round pick for Gaustad, but then again I like a tough guy at playoff time just as much as the next person.
DET trades D Mike Commodore to TB for a conditional 7th round pick.
Busy Lightning solidify defense with three trades (nhl.com)
This one tugs at the heartstrings, as those who know me well know that I absolutely adore Mike Commodore. Tampa also has a special place in my heart because Steve Stamkos has been the anchor of my fantasy hockey team the last 3 years in a row. Neither of these facts are hard hitting or relevant to anyone outside of my living room, but nonetheless, I think Tampa did good in bolstering the blue line. They've got three powerhouse forwards, so I'm glad they stuck to fixing the defense.
MIN trades D Greg Zanon to BOS for Steve Kampfer (Pioneer Press)
The article covers the Nick Schultz to EDM trade as well, but I wanted to highlight D Greg Zanon because he spent six seasons with the Admirals/Predators. Zanon, or Z as he is affectionately referred to, was in the middle of his third season with the Minnesota. He'll be reunited with former Admiral teammate Rich Peverley, who is in his second season with the Bruins.
2012 NHL Trade Deadline: The Dust is Long From Settled (jacketscannon.com)
After much speculation that included rumors with every single team in the league, Rick Nash remains (like it or not) on the Columbus Blue Jackets roster. Matt Wagner has a great article about the elephant in the room that is Nash.
TradeCentre: Winners and Losers of Deadline Day (tsn.ca)
Round out you trade deadline reading with the TSN.ca-picked winners and losers of trade deadline day. Want my opinion? Nashville came out the big winner on the trade ticker.


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Dogs allowedSee all facilities…
Woof. That's your dog telling you to book a long long Lingfield stay: the pitches at family-run Long Acres Caravan and Camping Park are perfectly pet-friendly with no extra charges for man's best friend – and there are lots of options for walkies in the surrounding Surrey countryside too.
Whether using Long Acres to be walked by the dog or as a base to see the attractions of Surrey, human campers are also in for a treat at this friendly well-maintained park: there's a well-stocked tourist information kiosk, games on site including boules and quoits, and two spotless centrally heated loo and shower blocks with free hot water. For food, Lingfield village with its shops, pubs, restaurants, takeaways and supermarkets is a mile away.
Pitches at Long Acres come with a choice of electric hook-up and are available for tents, tourers and motorhomes – and did we mention there's no charge for the family pooch…?
Site type
Check availability at Long Acres Caravan & Camping Park…
Depart: (2
Party:2 adults
Max. persons: unlimited
Hardstanding gravel electric pitch 8m x 8m with 16 amp electric hook-up.
Max. persons: unlimited
Electric grass pitch approx. 8m x 8m with 16-amp electric hook-up included.
Max. persons: unlimited
Non-electric grass pitch 8m x 8m approx. without electric hook-up.


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|Women's Tennis » Schedule » Roster » News » Coaches » Season Statistics
Valpo Drops Opener to Bradley
Saturday, January 24, 2004The Valparaiso University women's tennis team opened its 2004 spring season on Saturday afternoon, dropping a tight 4-3 decision to Bradley at Matchpoint Raquet Club.
The Braves opened the match sweeping through doubles competition to earn the first point of the contest. Mara Sonkin (Wheaton, Ill./Wheaton-Warrenville South H.S.) and Rachel Janssen (Fort Wayne, Ind./Dwenger H.S.) dropped an 8-6 contest at the top spot, while Jill Dierberg (Saint Louis, Mo./Lutheran South H.S.) and Charmane Stanislaw (Libertyville, Ill./Libertyville H.S.) fell 8-3 at third doubles. Kate Evangelist (Glen Ellyn, Ill./Glenbard West H.S.) and Whitney Chada (Downers Grove, Ill./Downers Grove North H.S.) fell 8-7 in a tie-break after the point had been decided.
The Brown and Gold tried to rally during singles play. Janssen posted a convincing 6-0, 6-1 victory at third singles, while Chada cruised 6-1, 6-0 at the fourth spot. Dierberg gave Valpo its third victory with a 6-4, 6-3 triumph at fifth singles, but the Crusaders could not post victories at first, second, or sixth singles. Sonkin tried to pull out the win for Valpo at the top spot, winning the opening set before falling 3-6, 6-2, 6-4. Bradley won in straight sets at both fifth and sixth singles.
The Crusaders will return to action on Sunday afternoon, traveling to Chicago to face DePaul in a 1 p.m. contest.
Women's Tennis Archives
2003-04 Women's Tennis
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Romantic Road MapElectricity in Italy - Power Plugs and Converters for Electr...Emeralds of ColombiaBalloning the Chianti Region of TuscanyThe Overlooked Beaches of the Texas Gulf Coast
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Cat Urinary Tract Infection - Medication
Urinary tract infection is a name given to a group of symptoms that occur due to inflammation, irritation or obstruction of the urinary tract. It is usually related to the lower urinary tract that comprises of the urinary bladder, urethra and penile urethra. Although, the kidneys that produce urine are part of the urinary system, they are usually considered to be a part of another field of medicine and are dealt with separately.
Feline urinary infection can affect any of the organs along the urinary tract. Bladder infection and cystitis (inflammation of the urinary bladder) are among the most common diseases of the lower feline urinary tract. Infection is mostly bacterial in nature but inflammation can occur without infection too. Treatment of the urinary tract infection in cats normally depends upon the underlying cause and the severity of the infection.
A simple infection is usually treated with an antibiotic course. A urinalysis is done to determine the bacterium that has caused the infection. This helps in choosing the correct antibiotic that should be administered to fight the harmful bacteria. Although, the symptoms start to show some results in two days, it is recommended that the full course of antibiotics be completed. This is necessary to ensure complete removal of the bacteria and to avoid a recurrence of the disease. To be doubly sure that the infection has been totally eradicated, a urine sample is cultured again after five days of completing the treatment.
There is a strong correlation between bladder stones and urinary infection. Sometimes bladder stones form due to excessive mineral deposits in the urine, which leads to inflammation and eventually an infection of the bladder. Just as stones can also cause urinary infection, they can also be a result of urinary infection. Certain types of stones can only be removed through surgery while some can be dissolved by changing the diet of the cat.
Even when infection has been clearly identified and is being treated, a pet owner should be observant about signs of blood in the urine. Such a symptom can indicate the prevalence of a tumor in the bladder. Bladder tumors that grow in the neck of the bladder often get infected and blood in the urine is also a strong indication of a cancer that may be developing inside.
The matter of urinary tract infection does not end here. In cases where the immune system of the cat has been adversely affected, there are chances that the urinary infection may ascend into the kidneys. If a kidney infection is suspected, the antibiotic course may last for four to six weeks.
If the results of urinalysis show a bladder infection, there is an alternative to prescription drugs. Alternative medicine is considered to be more effective than conventional drugs. You can choose between herbal antibiotics and homeopathic remedies, both of which are based on natural substances and devoid of side effects.
Related Products
Homeopathic remedy to relieve symptoms of urinary tract infections (UTIs), including frequent urination and bladder discomfortLearn More


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Hi everyone...
i have recently bought this slightly used iPhone 4 with software version 4.3.3 and baseband 04.10.01. Previously i owned an iPhone 3G which i was using from last 3 years or so and was also upgrading/jailbreaking/unlocking it myself.
Yesterday i got a bit excited knowing that my 4G's software is a bit outdated and a new 5.0.1 is there waiting for my phone. Sadly, and i would say luckily as well, i read that theres no unlock available atm for the baseband for my new phone, before i actually pressed the button on sn0wbreeze to put my phone in DFU mode.
Theres though this Gevey sim thing available (something that i used for my 3G back in 2009) and thats something i never preferred to go after. I can wait for ultrasn0w to come up with the solution for 04.10.01 baseband as they always do.
One thing that i would ask you guys is that, my phone (when i bought it) was already jailbroken and unlocked. Im someone who hasnt seen a phone that is jailbroken but unlocked without using softwares like ultrasn0w or other popular patches that unlock jailbroken iphone.
My phone is jailbroken with 4.3.3 but when im in Cydia, the Packages do not show ultrasn0w or any other software that has unlocked this phone. I can use any sim on my phone at the moment and all of them have worked for now. This phone though needs an upgrade anyway cause 4.3.3 has these issues with wifi connections and the data sent/recieved over wifi connections usually turns frozen between screen lock intervals.
Should i wait for any jailbreak upgrade until unlock for 04.10.01 is out? Other thing that is bothering me is my phone's unlocked state after jailbreak which is working without any software mentioned in Cydia's installed packages
Please guide me through this confusion


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Through the Loops Augusta Socks
Sorry, this is not currently available.
Previously $5.50 each.
- Pattern Type
- All Knitted
- Socks
Kirsten named these socks for the famous golf course where the Masters tournament is played. The color of the yarn contrasted with the coral cuff reminded her of the beautiful fairways accented by gloriously blooming azaleas that Augusta National is known for.
Augusta is knit toe up.
Yarn: Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock; 80% Superwash Wool, 20% Nylon; 215 yards/skien; main color #207 Envy, 2 skeins; contrast color Poppy, #3919, 1 skein
Needles: US#0 or size to obtain gauge
Gauge: 9 st. = 1" in stockinette
Size: 7" at ball of foot and ankle, they stretch to fit my 9" wide foot and 8.75" ankle. DD#2 is modeling the socks in the photos, her foot and ankle are considerably narrower than mine.


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Microsoft issued a "Fix it"-style patch on Tuesday for a Windows 7 upgrade problem that results in a system hang.
The problem, for Vista users upgrading to Windows 7, is that the installer program never completes the upgrade. Instead, some users get a system hang after 62 percent of the upgrade has been completed.
Microsoft is pointing to a Windows Vista plug-in, "IphlpsvcMigPlugin.ddd," as the culprit, according to the Fix it blog. The company had published a workaround with complex steps to follow. Now, users with the problem can use Microsoft's Fix it solution to carry out those same steps and complete their Windows 7 upgrades. Fix its are an attempt by Microsoft to simplify patching tasks spelled out in support bulletins.
The Fix it solution can be applied after the 62 percent upgrade failure happens. At that point, the PC will roll back to Windows Vista. Users can then visit this support page, scroll down and click the "Fix this problem" link. The link will run a wizard with steps to complete to apply the patch. After the patch is applied, users can try the Windows 7 upgrade process again.
Microsoft cautions that this Fix it solution should not be used for Windows 7 upgrades that halt at some other percentage than "62 percent."
Windows 7 was released to the general public last month, but some individuals have reported various problems upgrading from Vista, including an endless reboot problem still under investigation by Microsoft. The main forum for getting help on Windows 7 upgrade issues can be found here, but Microsoft also offers other help resources.
Upgrades are only supported when moving from Vista to Windows 7. For those migrating from Windows XP to Windows 7, a clean install needs to be performed, which is described in this article.
About the Author
Kurt Mackie is online news editor for the 1105 Enterprise Computing Group.
Printable Format
Should be done by a professional?
Eat Shit man. Go drive your Humvee off a cliff. asswipe....
Nick, you can do the following to upgrade the pre-release to a retail version of Windows 7:
1. Copy the entire DVD to a new folder on your hard drive, preferably a separate hard drive or USB drive.
2. Go to the "Sources" folder of the copied files
3. Find the file "CVERSION.INI" and open this in Notepad
4. Edit the MinClient line to read "MinClient=7000.0" (without the quotes)
5. Save the file.
6. Run the setup from the hard drive folder.
Your Windows 7 upgrade should proceed and all files and settings will be retained.
3. Setup ran smooth until about 87% in the "gathering files...." step where it would hang. Aborted and retried several times, always with same result....call #2 to tech support. Tech guy spent nearly one hour on phone trying different desperation moves to no avail. As we were trying to get to the X: drive in DOS, my setup started moving again! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Hung up thinking all is well with the world until.....62% of "transfering files....." section whereupon setup halted again. Let it run all night while I slept. Awoke to an error message telling me that setup could not continue because I did not have enough disc space. WHAT???? 4. Third call to techs and a third challenge in "What Language Am I Speaking?" I finally figured out that I wasn't in Kansas anymore...in fact wasn't anywhere in the USA anymore, but had been hooked up to call centers in India the whole time. No offense, but aren't there a whole bunch of really qualified UNEMPLOYED American tech people around right about now? And isn't Microsoft an AMERICAN company whose initial and still largest market...the one that made Billy and the others soooooo very rich...isn't it the USA? Nice way to give back to the ones that put you there, Willy. But I digress.....I have now spent about four hours (last call until 2amEST) on the phone with techs and going on 96 hours (they don't work on weekends) without a working computer. All just to install an operating system!! OMG!! And they still can't figure out why it won't work. Apple, anyone?
Microsoft is a NIGHTMARE! I have been running the 7 RC beta since it was released last April. Last week, I called Microsoft to purchase the RTM software, as the beta is expiring. The horror began. 1. I tell Sales "Pro" that I want to upgrade my RC but don't want to do clean install because of many programs I'd lose. Sales "Pro" tells me I have to buy full version Ultimate ($319, thank you)BUT good news is all I have to do is enter new product key in my system info and I won't have to do any new install. "Are you sure?" "Yes...absolutely." Cha-Ching! 2. Five minutes later when I realize I'd been had (RC version will not accept new product key), I suck it up and decide to do an upgrade install. But nooooooo....Upgrade will not work from RC and my old Vista is long gone. What to do??? Call Microsoft and speak to the pros of course! Call tech help and speak with someone who is attempting to speak English, and who thinks speaking faster makes him sound better. I think he tells me that there is no way to upgrade from RC and that I will have to do a clean install. I ask why this was not made clear back when the RC was released? I recall Microsoft only warning that at the end of the beta you would have to convert to the RTM or revert to your previous OS. Not being a tecchie I assumed that the beta files would have noted my Vista origination and that I would be able to run an upgrade to RTM. Doh! I hung up with whatever-his-name-was and did a google on RC to RTM and found a fix....just switch the version info in cversion.ini. Easy as pie. Did it, ran the setup from my desktop and then the real fun began. Continued on next post.......
I am worried, I need to use that PC soon its been almost 24 hours. -I dont think you need to be an IT pro to install an OS. I got my W7 out of the shelf and paid plenty for it. I was starting to like MS, just to be remembered. My PC hanged at 78% and when tried a reboot it says "your computer could become useless". Took out the DVD and re-insterted it, nothing happens, there is hard drive activity... I will wait another 12 hours tonight.
This fix is only for 62% failure, is there a fix for a 61% failure? Will the same fix work for it too? I'm running an Acer with Vista Home Premium.
if we are to use these os systems ms would have us to then why are we so scared to try . maybe u remember win95 i do and it was catastrophic . please keep in mind some of us use these for business everyday . i need no interruption of my day to day use. i need to stay on top of my business not my computer !!!
No problems at all. From Vista Home Premium to Win 7 Home Premium - Read lots about it hanging at 62% so was worried it may stall. I took off iTunes and Quicktime, left McAfee AV on (and running), backed up personal files, inserted the upgrade DVD and off it went. Took just over 2 hours in total (including removing the above software). Didn't hang at all. Very relieved! I'm no 'professional' and it worked for me. Still prefer OSX though.
Installing an operating system should be done by a professional. We understand how to prep a system for the process. I have completed dozens of upgrades from Vista to 7 with ZERO major issues. I have also completed several clean installs and transfer of data from XP to 7 with seamless results. Just because you know how to plug in a usb device does not mean you are qualified to install an operating system. And Macs aren't the answer either. I just set up a pc for a fellow who's mac died two weeks out of warranty and they wanted more to fix it than he could buy a brand new pc for. He loves 7.
Upgrade Vista Ultimate to Windows 7 Ultimate fails. The checker says I am ok but after 2 hours on the last restart the message says the upgrade has failed. This reminds me of the Vista Service Pack 2 upgrade. Can't Microsoft ever get it right?
I am afraid to turn my employees lose on a Windows 7 upgrade. I'll wait a year or so until they get a few of the bugs out.......which will still probably be many. I keep thinking that one of these days I've got to switch to MAC. I just hate making the break and paying way too much for a MAC over a PC knowing we'll have to change in a year or two.
Microsoft seems hell-bent on causing as much confusion as possible. I've used Vista Home Premium since shortly after it came out. Zero installment problems, but frequently get error messages about certain .dll files not being found & a re-install of Vista might alleviate the matter. Annoying! UAC reminders caused me to disable it but that comes with its own set of reminders. I'd like to upgrade to 7 merely for driver compatibilities...but am holding my wallet tightly. I wonder why Microsoft can't simply make an OS that makes a clean install but also pulls other programs & files, stores them in an untouchable place until which time the new OS is installed and then the new OS can access those programs/files and fit them into the new OS? Why all this fuss, fudgery, and folderoll about Upgrades, Clean Installs, RCs to RTMs, etc??? Seems consumers would be more beholding to Microsoft IF the software giant actually made it easier for the end-users. And this Fix-It for installs/upgrades that hang at exactly 62% - surely MS had to have known this was going to happen. It's enough to make a grown man cry!!!
The "clean install" from Windows XP can have similar problems. Don't remember the % when the hang occurred, but holding the power button to shut down the computer and restarting resulted in the rollback. To "upgrade", I had to format the hard drive, install a clean XP then do the Win7 "clean install". Now I am delaying the XP upgrade to my main business computer - I don't need the problems!
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Watchful eyes The Waterbury Board of Aldermen soon will consider a proposal to install a surveillance-camera system downtown. The system would cost about $190,000, to be financed via grant money, and "would cover the district between the City Green and the Mixmaster, and between Meadow and North Elm streets," The Sunday Republican reported Jan. 27. Downtown landlords believe the system would help them attract tenants, and Deputy Police Chief Fred Spagnolo said downtown merchants have requested the cameras to reassure their customers and employees of the safeness of downtown. Mayor Neil M. O'Leary added that the system may make suburban residents feel better about going downtown, even though Waterbury already is one of the safest big cities in Connecticut. Mayor O'Leary has consistently stressed downtown revival as key to an economic renaissance, and there seems to be reason to believe the camera system would attract more people and businesses. As such, the proposal is worthy of support.
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Narrow your search
Launch Center Pro easily automates common tasks on your iPhone, and is worth the high price tag, but only if you're willing to learn the ropes.
Pricing not available
Shake to undo isn't a new feature in iOS when it comes to text entry, but it is new in the Mail app. Here's what it does.
The digital assistant has some new tricks, including car and music integrations.
President to ask Congress and the U.S. Patent Office for new rules and legislation amid concerns the system is being abused and competition is being squelched.
All Things Digital says that at the company's scheduled press event tomorrow, it will unveil the first group of applications launching via Open Graph.
Verizon Communications says employees were terminated for strike-related acts ranging from physical violence to making racial threats.
One of Apple's favorite themes is the "Post-PC era." Executives are amplifying this message with new cloud-centric software that intends to "demote" the Mac just another "device."
Google has expanded the voice command capability of Android with Voice Actions, a free app that lets you speak to control music playback, maps, and more.
Getting Folder Actions to work


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GPS Holder makes getting directions easier and driving safer! Holds any brand of GPS in your vehicle's cup holder for unobstructed windshield visibility and quicker access. Cup mount keeps your GPS out of the hot sun (and the view of potential thieves). No more reaching to program your GPS, no more wires to untangle! Can instantly be moved from one vehicle to another. 5" x 4½".
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Due to Friday's Winter Jam event at Thompson-Boling Arena, fans traveling to campus for that day's baseball games should enter campus via Volunteer Blvd. and avoid Neyland Dr.
Click here for the original story.
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Jomres Core is free to download and use. If you want more functionality than the Core system offers, you can install plugins through the Jomres Plugin Manager. Once you have entered your license number into the Site Configuration page you can download any of the plugins at no extra cost.
There are three different membership schemes.
With a Solo license you can download and install any Jomres plugin, however you are limited to just one support ticket.
With Silver (10 tickets) and Gold (100 tickets) licenses you can download all of the plugins, at no extra cost, for the duration of the membership's term. The only difference is the term, Silver licenses are valid for 6 months and you will get downloads and support for the system during that time. With a Gold license, the license doesn't expire.
After you have purchased a Solo, Silver or Gold license you will be given a license key. Enter this key in your installation's Site Configuration area and you will be able to download any plugins that you need from the Jomres plugin manager, as well as raise support tickets if you have any questions (if your license includes support).
Renewal options ( Jomres Silver only )
6 months £99.00 GBP (order now)
Note: You can install Jomres on as many domains as you need. After your membership has expired, you can still use plugins you've installed, but you won`t be able to download updates or new plugins. Be aware that membership licenses are for plugin downloads and support, Jomres itself is licensed under the GPL.


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The Wiha BitFlip line of 8-in-1 bit sets feature a 1/4" magnetic driver with storage for eight bits in the handle. The bit drawer flips out and turns bits toward the user for quick and easy access. Three sets available: No. 36026, with slotted, Phillips and square bits; No. 38027 with slotted, Phillips and Torx bits; and No. 38028, with Torx bits.
BitFlip line of 8-in-1 bit sets
From Wiha Tools
BitFlip line of 8-in-1 bit sets
Product From Wiha Tools
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- Product From V8 Tools Inc.
The V8 Tools Clip-on Magnetic Parts Dish, No. V8 3803, saves technicians time by helping to prevent the loss of missing e-clips, bolts or drain plugs. To use, technicians must clip the V8 3803 anywhere onto themselves as a holster for parts or small hand tools. Three powerful, rare-earth magnets hold the dish securely. This dish is specially designed to hold long parts and tools. It is made of a strong and durable plastic.
- Product From Megatester Inc.
The Megatester Multi-Tester is a super bright LED flashlight with a built in electrical tester that can outshine most "D" flashlights, according to the company. It is compact enough to carry all the time and can test almost all un-energized circuits 3V to 220V AC+DC circuits. Megatester can also trace wires and find bad grounds. This unit comes with two holsters: one velcro holster and one belt holster, for convenient access to flashlight and tester at all times. This unit comes with a push-button switch and How-To-Test guide, which explains how to perform basic safe testing. Megatester is made to the highest quality standards, backed by the company's unconditional lifetime guarantee.
Wrench Connection Set, Nos. WC100 and WC200Product From E-Z Red Company
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- Product From Blair Equipment Company
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- Product From BrakeQuip LLC
BrakeQuip offers a professional kit (No. BQ350), standard flaring tool kit (No. BQ351), a 37 degree only kit (No. BQ352) and a 37 degree kit for anyone who has a Sykes Pickavant 270 series flaring tool kit (No. BQ352-SP). The professional kit (BQ350) creates 37- and 45-degree single and double flares as well as DIN.
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The Anglo American Tools Kukko 3-Arm Quick Adjusting Universal Pullers were diligently and cleverly designed to contain features such as the use of "ArmLock" technology, which guarantees maximum stability of the sliding arm and the claw. The geometry of the puller's crossbar and sliding parts has been optimized (rounded) to ensure particularly easy movement of the extractor hooks along the crossbar, while offering a rock-solid hold once positioned on the bolts. The knurled-knob adjusters enable quick loosening, positioning and tightening of the puller arms by hand, requiring no wrench.
- Product From AE Light
AE Light offers the explosion-proof W30 LifeLight LED flashlight. This light offers a powerful 270 lumen for more than three hours of operation, and a dim setting at 50 lumeen for 72 hours of operation. Rated Class 1, Division 1, Groups A-G, T4A, the W30 LifeLight is waterproof to 600', and durable enough to be run over by a truck. Comes with a lifetime warranty. For more information,
Sidekick and Wingman multi-toolsProduct From Leatherman Tool Group Inc.
Leatherman introduces two new entry-level multi-tools: the Sidekick and the Wingman. Constructed from 420 stainless steel, these tools feature Leatherman's popular outside-accessibility-to-tools design. These tools include the following features: a saw, file, knife, scissors, screwdriver, pliers, bottle/can opener, serrated knife and more. Backed by Leatherman' s no-hassle, 25-year warranty.
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Snap-on's QD series click type torque instruments, Nos. QD2R100 and QD3R250, feature a certificate of calibration, with actual certification readings and instrument serial numbers. The minimal friction "hour glass" cam retains and releases lubricant where needed to reduce friction. These torque wrenches are accurate to +/- 4 percent clockwise and +/- 6 percent counterclockwise from 20 percent to 100 percent full scale. With a positive stop, the instrument cannot be accidentally disassembled if wound down past scale. Storage case included.
- Product From Streamlight, Inc.
With an innovative 360-degree rotating head and the ability to pivot up or down 210 degrees, the lightweight Streamlight Knucklehead LED work light gives technicians a variety of ways to target bright white light wherever needed. Available in both rechargeable and alkaline battery C4 LED models, the Knucklehead includes a powerful magnet with 135-lb. pull strength, retractable hook and replaceable rubber boot. Microprocessor-controlled technology provides multiple modes of operation, including high and low intensity, emergency flash and a long-running moonlight mode. The Knucklehead now has a Division 2 safety rating from USTC. Division 2 locations are where ignitable concentrations are not likely to exist under normal operating conditions.


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- Bob Vila TV Shows >
- Manhattan Remodel and Cape Cod Affordable > Episode 15: Installing Glazed Wall Tile and a Pedestal Sink
Installing a Pedestal Sink
Bob is at the Manhattan Brownstone, where work is underway in the bathroom to hang wall tile and set up the pedestal sink. Bob meets Rob Shedrofsky of Davinci Stone, suppliers of the Porcelanosa glazed clay tile that is being applied to the walls. This Subway tile gives a sleek, urban look to the bathroom. Permanent pipe fittings are put in place, and the anchors are marked and set in the wall before Mario Taormina from N. Pagano Plumbing installs the Toto pedestal sink and faucet. The faucet, handles, drain, spindles and diverter are attached, and a code-specified P-trap is set in place to carry waste water from the sink and prevent sewer-gas backup. Bob then visits a $3.5 million Minton tile restoration at Bethesda Terrace in Central Park. The 49 original tile panels were deteriorating structurally and had to be removed in the 1980s. These panels are comprised of 16,000 individual tiles. They will be restored, backed with stainless steel, and returned to their original spot on the vaulted brick ceilings under the terrace.
- Part 1: Applying Glazed Wall Tile in the Bathroom
- Part 2: Installing a Pedestal Sink
- Mario Taormina of N. Pagano Plumbing installs the Toto pedestal sink in the bathroom of the Manhattan Brownstone. Taormina stresses that the first step is to shut off the water and drain any pipes. He then begins by removing the nipple caps and marking the outside of the temporary nipples or short lengths of pipe to show where the wall line is located. He then removes these temparary nipples and checks them against the permanent nipples to verify that they are the right length. Each end of the tubing is wrapped in Teflon tape for a tight fit. The fittings are then hand-tightened in place and checked before being tightened with a wrench. Taormina sets the pedestal and sink bowl in place to mark the support holes from the sink onto the wall. He then drills the holes and sets the anchors in the wall. The Toto faucet is installed on the sink bowl before it is set in place. first Taromina installs the faucets and spout that are designed with multiple rubber seals so that no putty is needed. He then attaches the supply spindles and diverter tee. The neoprene gaskets in the spindle connections make for a long-lasting, leak-free fit. The drain is the one place where Taormina insists on using putty. He ends with the waste pipe that will sit inside of the pedestal. Taormina installs the code-specified P-trap that prevents sewer gas backup in New York City plumbing installations.
- Part 3: Minton Tile Repair in New York's Central Park
This project deals with two very different notions of home. Bob begins on New York City's Upper West Side, where an 1890s Brownstone is revitalized through high-quality craftsmanship and sensitive design. New York's past meets its present, as the entire floor is recaptured and refurbished to create a spacious urban apartment on the doorstep of Central Park.
At the same time, Bob works with a Cape Cod developer to apply Massachusetts land use statute 40B to create affordable housing, and a neighborhood of homes in Mashpee, MA. These Energy Star certified homes show how quality building practices and reasonable asking prices can work together to provide livable, affordable homes and neighborhoods to those who work in our communities.
At the same time, Bob works with a Cape Cod developer to apply Massachusetts land use statute 40B to create affordable housing, and a neighborhood of homes in Mashpee, MA. These Energy Star certified homes show how quality building practices and reasonable asking prices can work together to provide livable, affordable homes and neighborhoods to those who work in our communities.
Also from Manhattan Remodel and Cape Cod Affordable
Episode 1 - A New Lift for a Manhattan BrownstoneDescription:
Bob is on Manhattan's Upper West Side to renew a 2,000-square-foot Brownstone apartment. First, he looks at what made Brownstones significant, including their details and façades.

 Inside the building, Bob shows how the space was cut up in the 1940s to make a warren of rooms. These walls and finishes will be removed as the space is gutted to prepare for new studs, walls, plumbing, and finishes.

 Pieces will be salvaged for architectural resale, including the pink sink from the bathroom and the retro cabinets in the kitchen, but everything else will go. Bob also visits Central Park, its caretakers, trees, and monuments.
Episode 2 - Demolition in the Manhattan BrownstoneDescription:
The big story is the cornice molding found in tact when the drop ceiling came down. The molding will set a tone for the main living space, where the bricks have been removed to install a flue liner and drafting fireplace. All of the 40s wall, surface, and ceiling treatments are gone, along with the lath and plaster, leaving the bare brick and exposed joists from the original construction. Remodels have cut into the joist work or damaged it, so some reworking will be necessary to build up for the floors and ceilings. The floor joists are sistered to make a level, solid footing for the Georgia-Pacific Plytanium subflooring that goes under the wood floor. Laser levels allow the carpenters to set level lines throughout the apartment horizontally for the floor and vertically for the new steel studs they are installing. Finally, a flexible flue liner is run through the wall, and up the chimney for the new fireplace.
Episode 3 - Building Affordable Homes on Cape CodDescription:
Affordable housing is the story in this project as Bob heads to Mashpee, Massachusetts on Cape Cod, where a state law is helping put higher density, affordable housing in place for four families who live and work in the community. Bob meets Pat Fiero of the Housing Assistance Corporation who explains the hurdles faced by families needing to live near their workplaces in a town where the average home price is $450,000. Bob visits Mashpee Commons and looks at mixed-use development that is providing a town center, housing, commercial property, recreational space, and a new church as a start to this new town development. Bob also meets the developer, Joe Valle, who explains the challenges in developing affordable housing and how this project was made possible by invoking Massachusetts? 40B land use and development law. On site, Bob Bevilaqua moves the earth to prepare the sites, shows the tie-offs for electrical and phone lines, and explains the drainage plan.
Episode 4 - Falmouth's Model for Quality Affordable Housing
Episode 8 - Installing Drop Ceilings, Custom Windows, and Mechanicals
Episode 9 - Paneling the Kitchen, Installing Hot Water, and Hanging Doors
Episode 10 - Cladding, Insulating, and Zoning for an Affordable Home
Episode 13 - Installing Pre-Hung Doors, Hardwood Floors, and Gutters
Episode 14 - Affordable HVAC, Painting, Kitchen Cabinets and Counters
Episode 16 - Refurbishing Wrought Iron, Custom Kitchen Cabinets, Profile Molding
Episode 17 - Kitchens, Feng Shui, and Energy Star Homes
Episode 18 - Finishing Details in the Manhattan Brownstone
- 15 Old House Features We Were Wrong to Abandon
- 17 Tiny Bathrooms We Love
- 20 Insanely Easy 60-Minute Home Improvements
- 70 Gardening Tricks and Ideas for Total Beginners
- 16 Inventive Beds You Can Make Yourself
- Top 10 Classic DIY Projects for the Outdoors
- 15 Once-Popular Household Items That Are Vanishing
- 159 Smart Storage Ideas for the Whole House
- 30 Things Every Adult Should Know How to Do
- 10 Wise Ways to Get Rid of Pests and Critters
- Before and After: 9 Totally Amazing Mobile Home Makeovers
- Top Tips for Keeping Countertops Like New
- 15 Amazing Things You Can Make with $0 Scrap Wood
- 14 Ways to Get More Kitchen Counter Space
- Assembly Required: 15 DIY Kit Homes
- 18 Bathroom Updates You Can Do in 1 Day
- 9 Tried-and-True Methods of Eliminating Weeds
- Top 11 Color Trends to Follow in 2014
- 11 Clever Alternatives to Kitchen Cabinets
- 7 Easy Budget-Friendly Backyard Makeovers


text:
IBM® Compiler and Library for REXX™ on zSeries® are a high-level language compiler and runtime library.
This combination of compiler and library facilitates your REXX scripting and System z application development and runtime.
- The compiler translates REXX source programs into compiled programs and the runtime library houses routines that are called by the compiled programs
- Both the compiler and the library provide efficient systems management
- Both support error checking
- Both provide information during debugging
- Both increase flexibility
- The compiler, library and compiled programs run on z/OS® using TSO/E and under CMS on z/VM®
- Separate licenses are available for Compiler for REXX on zSeries, Library for REXX on zSeries, and Alternate Library for REXX on zSeries (a free download.)
Compiler and Library for REXX on zSeries
IBM Software Subscription and Support is included in the product price for the first year.
Not available for purchase online.
Contact IBM
- Request a quote
- Email IBM
- Or call us at: 877-426-3774
Priority code: Rational
- Compilers
- COBOL for AIX
- COBOL for OS/390 & VM
- COBOL for VSE/ESA
- COBOL Report Writer
- Compiler and Library for REXX on zSeries
- Enterprise COBOL for z/OS
- Enterprise PL/I for z/OS
- High Level Assembler and Toolkit Feature
- PL/I for AIX
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- Rational Developer for i for SOA Construction
- Rational Development Studio for i
- XL C for AIX
- XL C/C++ Advanced Edition for Blue Gene
- XL C/C++ for AIX
- XL C/C++ for Blue Gene/Q
- XL C/C++ for Linux
- XL C/C++ for z/VM
- XL Fortran Advanced Edition for Blue Gene
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Or call us at: 877-426-3774877-426-3774
Priority code: Rational


text:
(based on 6 reviews)
Ratings Distribution
5 Stars
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of respondents would recommend this to a friend.
Best Uses
Reviewed by 6 customers
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We got a "Hoot" out of him.
By Barb the gardeners wife
from Elmira, NY
About Me Midrange Shopper
Comments about Motion Sensor Owl:
I got this for my Husband for fathers Day. He thought it would help keep critters out of his garden. We haven't had to many critters in the garden since we put it out there. Can't say for sure it is because of our Owl or not. It does give a "hoot" ever so often. Which if your not expecting it scares the heck out of you. I will have to say it is an intresting addition to the garden.
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
Was this review helpful? Yes / No
- You may also flag this review
Doesn't work in the rain!
By Disappointed
from Jersey City, New Jersey
About Me Avid Gardener
A good concept however if it stops working in the rain what's the point?Pests are outdoors not inside obviously.
Bottom LineNo, I would not recommend this to a friend
Motion Detector
By Cindy RN
from Maryland
Not only did this work outside well but we had it in the living room and even at a great distance when there was movement at the door it worked. I think it could serve for multiple uses esp. with children.
(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
By Claud
from Orlando, Florida
This owl has eliminated the bird problem in my driveway. I have a tree near it and this year for the first time, I had a flock of birds using my tree. As a result, my cars in the drivway were covered with bird droppings. Now, I don't have that problem any more with the owl overlooking the driveway.
not worth the money
By meemaw
from Ellijay, Ga.
it's no good outside and if it gets wet it won't work at all, I don't have squirrels in the house and they have to get right on it before it works at all.
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
sensor owl
By sis
from mesa, az
Needed to chase birds away from freshly planted grass seeds and keep birds off roof. Birds loved the owl. Nice looking garden and patio decoration.It is a conversation piece to meet the neighbors.


text:
Magnolia is a CMS which delivers smartphone simplicity on an enterprise scale. The mobile-inspired HTML5 user interface works through customisable, task-focused Apps, a notification stream called the Pulse, and a system of Favorites for quickly accessing the workspace. Magnolia allows organizations to orchestrate online services, sales, and marketing across all digital channels, maximizing the impact of every touchpoint. Magnolia's Open Source technology, support of open standards such as CMIS and JCR, and integration with the Spring Framework enable developers to unlock backend systems and third-party applications. Magnolia is used in more than 100 countries across the world by governments and leading FORTUNE 500 enterprises.
Quest Identity Manager for Unix lets you remotely manage local users and groups on Unix, Linux, and Mac systems. It lets you find and manage existing local Unix users and groups throughout your environment through a single, centralized management console. You can create new local Unix users and groups throughout your environment from the same centralized management console. Local Unix user and group information can be securely managed over SSH. The management console can be run from Unix, Linux, Windows, or Mac platforms and any of the most common Web browsers. Quest Identity Manager for Unix can provide granular reports on Unix identity information, including local Unix users, local user conflicts, and all members of specific Unix groups. It can uncover rogue or unused local accounts.
An Ada Web framework that follows Java Server Faces.
A diff/patch library for JSON-serialized data structures.


text:
Contact Ben Paquette if you have any questions, or to report broken or dead links.
|Sand Volleyball Tournament
Entries Due: Wednesday, September 4th @ 2:00pm
Forfeit Bonds Due: Thursday, September 5th, 6:00pm
Mandatory Captain/Rep Meeting: Thursday, September 5th @ 6:00pm in Hill Center 53
Tournament Held: Friday, September 6th through Sunday, September 8th.
Forfeit Bond Price: Two bonds at $25 each. Cash or check accepted. Make all checks to "Ithaca College". We will not accept checks with combined forfeit bond amounts.
Don't miss the start of Intramurals with this weekend three-day tournament. Games are played from Friday afternoon through Sunday. Get reacquainted with old friends or get your new floor mates together! All games are played on the sand volleyball court behind Emerson Hall. Get barefoot and enjoy the last days of summer!


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Super-soft fleece comfort and chill-blocking warmth, in an eye-catching stylish design! From Chaps®, a staple of fashionable wardrobes for over 30 years.
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Men's Chaps® Fleece Lined Active Jacket
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Two is always better than one, so doubling the Jeff Gordon pride makes you twice the fan! Show off your spirit for #24 with this combo tee and hat set from Checkered Flag! The hat is adjustable and features the driver's name and number. The T-shirt boasts "Gordon" lettering printed down the left side with "24" near the hem. This set will let all other race fans know that you capture the checkered flag when it comes to Jeff Gordon fanaticism!
- Adjustable slide closure
- Curved bill
- Officially licensed NASCAR product
- Screen print graphics
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- Authentic Design
- Awesome Design
- Shows Off Team Pride
- Runs Small
Best Uses
- At The Race
- Daily Use
Comments about Checkered Flag Jeff Gordon Ladies Hat and T-Shirt Combo Set:
I would suggest ordering a size larger than what you would normally wear. This shirt runs small for ladies.
- Sizing:
- Feels full size too small
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Manufacturer direct items are shipped directly from the manufacturer. These items are not available for international or expedited shipping.
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I like thinking about characters builds that are based on crazy, at first glance horribly non-functional ideas and then making them work. I like the challenge. If you do too then you're in luck, because I came up with a such build for the Barb. I'm having trouble with the "making it work" part though, so I thought that maybe I should ask for ideas here. I mean people who visit a forum dedicated to a muscly dude and dudette bound to have a few insightful ideas about a crazy character build, right?
The thread's title is a strong hint at what this build is about: combining the Relentless passive, the Dread Bomb rune of Weapon Throw and constant low health to spam potentially one of the most damaging skill in the game.
Ignoring the possibility, that Relentless may not prevent Dread Bomb from spending all your Fury, these are the problems that need to be solved:
1) The less than 20% health part. Getting there is easy. Staying there? That's more tricky. Health globes should be avoided (party play is out of the question), just like any form of life leech and regen on your gear. To be able to survive, this build will need a ****load of Vitality and/or some form of damage mitigation.
2) The best mitigation would be staying away from enemies with the help of ranged snares from skills. This is a challenge for a Barb, but with the Shattered Ground rune Seismic Slam could be used for this purpose. This could mean, that this build would be mostly a ranged one. Also, remember that under ideal circumstances Fury costs aren't a problem for this build.
3) Constantly staying below 20% health is probably unrealistic, so a good damage skill will be needed when we need health and can't spam Dread Bomb. A Fury generator may suffice though.
4) Preserving Fury. This is important, because more Fury means more Dread Bomb damage. Most Fury generators are too dangerous to use below 20% health, because of their short range. Unforgiving is a really good choice for this purpose, but it would leave us with only one open passive slot. The Rage Flip rune of Ancient Spear comes to mind as well.
After thinking about these problems I came up with this build: http://eu.battle.net/d3/en/calculator/barbarian#aeUdfR!UWV!YZbccZ
I chose Sprint, since with Relentless it's a "passive" 50% movement speed bonus, which could be used to evade projectiles and explosion of enemies like the Grotesques.
Ignore Pain should be used against those pesky ranged attackers or unavoidable, fast moving enemies, like the leaping scavengers in the beta.
I would really appreciate any input on this build, since I could have missed some solutions to the problems I listed. What do you guys think, is this build viable or am I a complete lunatic?
Results 1 to 10 of 25
28-03-2012, 12:20 #1
Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
Last edited by HardRock; 29-03-2012 at 09:32.
29-03-2012, 01:40 #2
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
It doesn't really work does it? If you have a ton of life and/or damage mitigation, the fight is likely to be over before you hit 20%.
And if you somehow do hit 20% while in the middle of the fight, you are basically trying to stay between 10% (red screen) and 20%, which is such a narrow band... and your survival instincts will be screaming at you to chug a potion... not a realistic build imo! But it is interesting nonetheless
29-03-2012, 08:11 #3
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
Otherwise, like I said, just ignore potions and globes and you'll get there eventually.
The thing is, that Relentless also gives you 50% damage reduction below 20% HP. That means, that when you hit 20%, effectively you'll still have 30% of your HP left. You have other ways to further mitigate incoming damage. Higher than usual Vitality, Armor, Dodge or resists will be required for this build, exactly for the reason you mentioned. You have to feel comfortable fighting on low HP.
I didn't say that it will be easy, only that it will be... crazy?
29-03-2012, 09:23 #4
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
Well, that's like playing the game with a permanent health pool of 30%, in a way, which seems pretty interesting! Personally I'd swap the last skill for War Cry with either Impunity (because I imagine ranged spells will be your biggest problem, with all your tools to deal with melee attackers) or Hardened Wrath, if it turns out I'm wrong! While it's good to have the "Oh snap!" skill, I dare argue that a permanent boost to mitigation would be more beneficial than a long-cooldown/short-duration panic button, which you could pretty much use Sprint as anyway.
It's quite possible Nerves of Steel will outperform Tough as Nails as well, depending on how much Vitality you can rack up on your gear (which I understand is of importance). And with the same argument as in the above paragraph; Superstition may actually be even more useful, if it turns out your active skills are enough to keep melee oriented mobs at bay.
29-03-2012, 09:45 #5
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
Completely forgot about War Cry and its runes, thanks for mentioning it. This is exactly why I posted this build, there's so much possibilities in D3's skill system that it's really hard to think about all your options.
Impunity vs. Hardened Wrath is an interesting choice. Which one you should choose depends on the enemies you face of course, but its also very important to consider your gear. Armor will reduce spell damage as well. For this reason if the Barb doesn't have much resists Impunity could be the better choice even against casters.
Both Superstition and Nerves of Steel are a good choices as well. I would actually consider switching Animosity to either of them, if our Fury pools can be sufficiently extended by items.
29-03-2012, 09:46 #6
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
While you wouldn't want to play with just any stranger in a MP game, if you had a partner or two aware of your plan (or a Follower, since they all have CC and such) that could make things a bit less stress full. Thinking Sorc with nova and bubble, or another Barb with taunt. Barb might accidentally walk up to a health orb though, so hm...
29-03-2012, 09:52 #7
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
The Templar is an amazing follower for this build: http://eu.battle.net/d3/en/calculator/follower#1001
Since we will be on the brink of death at all times as far as the AI is concerned, the Templar will constantly taunt enemies off of us. He will need some life regen items to stay alive though, because we won't be able to heal him with globes.
29-03-2012, 10:51 #8
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
And followers cannot pick up orbs, correct?
note: I lack access to beta
29-03-2012, 11:06 #9
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
Followers do pick up orbs (unless my eyes deceive me)
29-03-2012, 11:07 #10
Re: Build brainstorm: the Relentless Bomber
I don't think they do.


text:
About us
The Arts Council is introducing a new funding scheme to support the touring and dissemination of work in all artforms. Building on the interim scheme introduced for 2010, the new scheme is one of a number of initiatives designed to implement the Council's Touring Policy, with a strong focus on the audience.
As referred to in previous announcements, it is intended that the touring and dissemination of work will be supported by a number of strands to take account of the different timeframes involved in the planning of tours and similar activities in different artforms.
These strands are:
The Medium Term Planning strand will be introduced first, as the principal scheme for 2011. This will support tours taking place within the calendar year 2011.
The application deadline for this strand will be on 1 October 2010. It is expected that applicants will be notified of the outcomes of their applications by 30 November 2010.
Details of this strand are being finalised and will be published by mid-August 2010.
Further announcements regarding the Advance and Short Term Planning Strands will be announced in due course.
Yelemba dance troupe from the Ivory Coast - Clonmel Junction Festival.


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Makes a Great Gift. Not sure of the right size or color to order? Fret no more friends and family of Mustang owners. American Muscle now has Gift Certificates available in convenient denominations that will make the perfect gift for the Mustang lover in your life.
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