text:
|Trad, 2 pitches, 115'
|YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
|Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971
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|Submitted By:
|Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>
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By TinCrow
From: Ca
May 5, 2008
|Easily done in one pitch with a 70'. The rap also went well with a single 70'.
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Be sure to use long slings on the bolt at the top of the first section and on the piton above the knobby section to reduce rope drag. The large knob in the center of the face can be slung for protection (and is even larger than it looks from the ground!).
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this now, at what is described as the top of the second pitch. I led it and lowered off with a 60m rope, with just a little bit of slack left (so tie a knot in the end before you try this) Two 4ft slings are good for slinging knobs on the traverse. The mantle was pretty wild, but not the hardest part of the route, I think.
By Jason Holliday
From: Blacksburg, VA
May 13, 2011
|This is one of my favorite routes ever. It's been a while, but I seem to remember straddling a watermelon, rotating sideways off of it to grab the next one, and then mantling it. It took me a while to get on top of it because it isn't that deep and the wall is quite steep at that point. Probably not the most elegant way to climb it but it sure was memorable.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Oct 17, 2011
|Best to do in one pitch...can be done and rapped with a single 60m rope.
By Ross Exler
From: New York
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Do it as one pitch! Easy offwidth to fist crack to fun knob climbing with an airy mantle (and an awesome slung knob as your pro) to a finger crack to an offwidth that eventually becomes low angle friction and knobs. 60+ meters of climbing. It is really, really fun.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012
|There's a 2b rap anchor above the wide section up top, instead of the slings/#4 anchor described elsewhere.
By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just heads up about the changed anchor situation:
The bolts are actually below the "5.9 fist" on the topo and skip out on a lot of good climbing. I thought there must be another anchor 10 meters further and kept going, but there was nothing (or I missed it). The only place to belay was at a big manzanita tree at the very top... about 70 meters or so, a nice and varied pitch.
Rappelled from there (no slings though anywhere in sight) with an 80 meter rope and two raps. (Not sure a 70 is enough for the first rappel to the bolts, it's long). There is supposed to be a walk-off too.
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Agree with JPvandever, the knob is waaay better than it looks from the ground.
Easily done in 1 pitch with a 70M.
By levigold
Jan 4, 2017
|To me, this route felt about as 10a as Sacherer Cracker, which is to say not 10a at all, but maybe I screwed it all up. I actually backed off on this route and the old schooler I was with sent it for me. Even following I was super impressed with the stiffness of the rating. We never considered it as two pitches, though I could see that working.


text:
Emmett Scanlan
Emmett was born in Dublin at a very young age in 1979. The age of Aquarius.
He resisted his full potential every minute of every day in a number of schools which held as much interest for him as a documentary on braiding hair. He was introduced to movies at the modest age of 7 with such greats as 'Nightmare On Elm Street', 'Dawn Of The Dead' and 'Jaws'. Rocky was genuinely his inspiration; Sylvester Stallone his hero. From that moment on he wanted to act. He wanted to be a hero, without the hard work and graft that real life insists upon.
Emmett got his first taste for acting in a school musical, which is probably the time he got his first taste for women. Yet another incentive. After his stunning daughter Kayla was born in 2002 he went into acting full time. He says, 'Seeing as how I had more responsibility I thought it only right to take up acting!' He says, 'I want to make a body of work that I can be proud of, that my family can be proud of. I love it. I can't do anything else. This is who I am'.

subset: commoncrawl