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Exodus International Won't Practice Conversion Therapy Anymore but That Doesn't Mean It's Accepting of Same-Sex Relationships
The head of Exodus International, an umbrella group for ex-gay ministries around the world, recently said that conversion therapy does not work and that there is, in fact, no "cure" for homosexuality. While this seems like a step in the right direction, the organization still says that any sexual activity outside of heterosexual marriage is wrong. So, now what?
A few weeks back, I included a piece in my sexual health roundup about a psychiatrist who apologized for his role in advancing conversion therapy. Also called reparative therapy, conversion therapy is the process by which homosexual individuals are "cured" of their sexual orientation. In the seventies, Dr. Robert Spitzer was part of the American Psychiatric Association panel that ruled that homosexuality was not a mental disorder as it had been categorized up until that point. Yet after being part of one of the biggest advances in gay rights, he was also part in one of its biggest setbacks, publishing a peer-reviewed study in 2001 of 200 individuals who underwent some kind of conversion therapy. The study found that such therapy worked to change the sexual orientation of those who participated. Gay rights activists and many in the psychiatric field were upset by Spitzer's research which they felt was methodologically flawed and open to misinterpretation and abuse by those with an anti-gay agenda. Not surprisingly, the research was pounced on by conservative groups promoting reparative therapy as proof that it worked; after all Spitzer was a friend to gay rights activists so if he thought this worked, it must.
More than a decade after the study was published, Spitzer admitted that he agreed with his critics—the study was flawed because it simply asked individuals whether they felt that their sexual orientation had changed which meant that they could be lying not just to him but to themselves as well. As Spitzer told the New York Times recently, "The simple fact is that there was no way to determine if the subject's accounts of change were valid." He went on to apologize:
I believe I owe the gay community an apology for my study making unproven claims of the efficacy of reparative therapy. I also apologize to any gay person who wasted time and energy undergoing some form of reparative therapy because they believed that I had proven that reparative therapy works with some "highly motivated" individuals."
While this better-late-than-never apology surprised many, it was not nearly as startling as the recent proclamation from the head of Exodus International, one of the many organizations that had used Spitzer study as proof that "curing" homosexuality was possible. Exodus is an umbrella organization for ex-gay ministries. It was founded in 1976 specifically to promote reparative therapy. In the past, the organization described its mission as encouraging "freedom from homosexuality through the power of Jesus Christ." The organization has 260 affiliated ministries around the world and "for decades, it has offered to help conflicted Christians rid themselves of unwanted homosexual inclinations through counseling and prayer…". But that may all be changing with a new announcement by the group's president, Alan Chambers, who "declared that there was no cure for homosexuality and that reparative therapy offered false hopes to gays and could even be harmful." This is a far-cry from what the organization was saying just a few years ago.
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What Exodus Used to Say
In 1998, Exodus was one of 15 prominent conservative groups that paid for a million-dollar ad campaign telling people they could "pray away the gay." More recently, the organization's slogan has been, simply, "Change is Possible." In fact, Chambers and his wife starred in an ad with that tagline.
I first became aware of Exodus International when the group co-sponsored the National Day of Truth in middle schools and high schools as a response to the Gay and Lesbian Education Network's (GLSEN's) annual Day of Silence. GLSEN's annual event asked students to take "a vow of silence to bring attention to anti-LGBT name-calling, bullying and harassment in their schools." A few years later, Exodus International and colleagues called on students across the country to observe a Day of Truth instead. This event "was established to counter the promotion of homosexual behavior and to express an opposing viewpoint from a Christian perspective." On that day, students were asked to hand out cards that said "it's time for an honest conversation about the biblical truth for sexuality. (In what may have be the precursor to its most recent change of policy, Chambers announced in 2010 that Exodus would no longer sponsor this event saying:
All the recent attention to bullying helped us realize that we need to equip kids to live out biblical tolerance and grace while treating their neighbors as they'd like to be treated, whether they agree with them or not.
Exodus also played a role in a 2005 controversy involving a teenager in Tennessee. Zack Starks, who at the time was 16, used his "My Space" page to tell the world about his experience in an ex-gay camp with ties to Love in Action an affiliate of Exodus International. The program was described as lasting two to six weeks. During the day, participants attend sessions in a "park-like setting." At night they're sent to a hotel with a legal guardian. In an email to Starks' parents the leaders of the program described details including "solitary confinement, isolation, and extreme restrictions of attire, correspondence, and privacy sanctioned by biblical quotations." Starks, who was forced to attend the program by his parents, wrote: "Even if I do come out straight, I'll be so mentally unstable and depressed it won't matter."
Love in Action and other Exodus affiliates ran similar programs across the country aimed at both teens and adults. Exodus also runs the traveling road show "Love Won Out," which was started by Focus on the Family in 1998 "to educate and equip Christians on how to respond to the issue of homosexuality in a biblical way." The management of the event was transferred to Exodus in 2009. The event caters to parents and young people who are told that homosexuality is the result of bad parenting but that it can be overcome. It's website explains that attendees:
…will be equipped to minister in truth and compassion to a loved one who deals with same-sex attractions, respond to misinformation in our culture and defend biblical beliefs with grace and understanding.
The website Truth Wins Out, however, says that attendees are instead treated to information designed to paint homosexuality in the worst light possible. It quotes one of the event's speakers as saying: "I'm telling you homosexuality, homosexual impulse, is always prompted by an inner sense of emptiness. It's not about sex."
All this may change, however, with Chambers' recent announcement, which he made at the organization's annual meeting in Minneapolis and has since been discussing with media outlets around the country in an effort to dissociate the group with the practice of reparative therapy.
Chambers told the Associated Press, for example:
I do not believe that cure is a word that is applicable to really any struggle, homosexuality included. For someone to put out a shingle and say, 'I can cure homosexuality' – that to me is as bizarre as someone saying they can cure any other common temptation or struggle that anyone faces on Planet Earth.
Chambers said similar things to the New York Times:
He said that virtually every "ex-gay" he has ever met still harbors homosexual cravings, himself included. Mr. Chambers, who left the gay life to marry and have two children, said that gay Christians like himself face a lifelong spiritual struggle to avoid sin and should not be afraid to admit it.
The Seeds of Change
This change may have been brewing for a while as the organization and the ex-gay movement as a whole weathered criticism and scandal. In 2009, a special committee of the American Psychological Association released a report finding that there was no evidence that sexual orientation can be changed through therapy. The committee looked at 83 peer-reviewed studies conducted between 1960 and 2007 and found that most had serious methodological problems and that none adequately focused on the potential harms of this kind of therapy. According to the committee's chairwoman: "At most, certain studies suggested that some individuals learned how to ignore or not act on their homosexual attractions. Yet these studies did not indicate for whom this was possible, how long it lasted, or its long-term mental health effects."
Perhaps more damning, however, were the numerous incidents in which leaders in the ex-gay movement (men who had proclaimed they were cured of their homosexuality) were caught in or seeking same-sex relationships. In 2000, John Paulk, a Focus on the Family employee and board member of Exodus North America, was placed on probation by Exodus after being photographed in a well-known gay bar in Washington, DC. In 2003, an actor whose photographs were used in the "pray away the gay" ads because he too claimed to have been cured of homosexuality was found to be meeting men on the internet.
A few years later the national media seized on the story of George Rekers, an anti-gay "expert" who co-founded the Family Research Council and was frequently called to testify on why same-sex couples should not be allowed to adopt children. Rekers was found on vacation with a male escort he had hired on RentBoy.com. Rekers rather lamely claimed that he had hired the young man to lift his heavy luggage. In a later statement, Rekers tried explained: "I deliberately spend time with sinners with the loving goal to try to help them."
Wayne Besen, founder of Truth Wins Out, suggests that because of these scandals, the movement has had to change its message from promising a cure to promising to guide individuals through a process.
The thought of a lifelong 'struggle' defined by sexual frustration and loneliness was significantly less appealing for potential clients than the magic remedy that had previously been promoted.
Some argue that this less promising future along with an increasing acceptance of same-sex relationships in society as a whole has led to the waning influence of these groups and ultimately to comments like those Chambers has been making recently. David Roberts, editor of the Web site Ex-Gay Watch, "speculated that Mr. Chambers was trying to steer the group in a moderate direction" because as homosexuality became more accepted these groups were "becoming pariahs."
Changes of Heart
Yet Chambers is far from the first ex-gay leader to do an about-face and if you listen to what these men say when they do change their minds it sounds much more personal than that. In 2006, Michael Bussee apologized for his role in the ex-gay movement saying "to those I may have harmed by my involvement in EXODUS, I am truly sorry." Bussee, who helped found Exodus International in the early seventies, fell in love with Gary Cooper, another anti-gay counselor, whom he met while traveling the country for the ministry. The men later left the agency and their wives and married each other in 1982. In his public apology he describes growing up hating his gay feelings and beginning a search for his own cure as young as 12. His search took him to the church where he was told:
If I had enough faith, I would eventually be "set free." I wanted it more than anything and sincerely believed it would come true.
He says that he and a friend founded the first ex-gay ministry, EXIT, to help other people in their positions because we they wanted more than anything for faith to cure them. Eventually though he realized that:
Not one of the hundreds of people we counseled became straight. Instead, many of our clients began to fall apart – sinking deeper into patterns of guilt, anxiety and self-loathing.
Bussee now describes himself as an "evangelical Christian and a proud gay man." He believes that eventually:
"Groups like EXODUS will go out of business when people no longer feel that they must deny who they really are, to attempt to become what they really are not."
Last year, John Smid, the former director of Exodus affiliate Love in Action, told Chris Matthews that he is gay and that it actually impossible to change one's sexual orientation. Smid explained that Love in Action taught its audience that "any homosexual choices were against God's will, and they were sinful and wrong. We were very straightforward about that." His new message is quite different as he now runs Grace Rivers, a monthly Christian fellowship group for "those who call themselves gay and want to seek a relationship with God in a place where they're free to do that." This message seems a bit more like what Bussee says he envisioned when he started EXIT in the 1970s and similar to what Chambers has said in recent months.
He told the New York Times, for example, that "gay Christians like himself faced a lifelong spiritual struggle to avoid sin and should not be afraid to admit it." Moreover, though, Chambers said "he believed that those who persist in homosexual behavior could still be saved by Christ and go to heaven."
In fact, in answer to accusations that his change of heart is politically motivated Chambers has argued that he is just "trying to restore Exodus to its original purpose when it was founded in 1976: providing spiritual support for Christians who are struggling with homosexual attraction."
What's Next for the Movement
While this seems like a step in the right direction, some gay rights activists say we should still be wary of Exodus as it has stopped far short of advocating acceptance of same-sex behavior or relationships. In fact, while Chambers says that reparative therapy may be harmful because it makes people feel "sinful for their natural inclinations," he still believes "that any sexual expression outside of heterosexual, monogamous marriage is sinful according to the Bible."
As Zack Ford points out on ThinkProgress no one has really pushed Chambers on what's next for Exodus. If the organization is no longer promoting curing homosexuality but still sees sex outside of heterosexual marriage as a sin, what does it want for people? Chambers hinted at the answer in the New York Times article when he said, "many Christians with homosexual urges may have to strive for lives of celibacy." Similarly, he told NPR, "gay Christians must either be celibate, or if they want to marry, it must be with someone of the opposite sex." Ford argues that "Sin, celibacy, and fake marriages do not constitute progress from ex-gay therapy. The difference between "don't be gay" and "don't act gay" is merely semantic, negligible in practice and unsupported by any scientific research." Wayne Besen agrees that this is only a small step: "We appreciate any step toward open, transparent honesty that will do less harm to people. But the underlying belief is still that homosexuals are sexually broken, that something underlying is broken and needs to be fixed. That's incredibly harmful, it scars people."
Moreover, other ex-gay ministries and organizations continue to insist that a cure is possible and are fiercely opposed to the new direction of Exodus. David Pickup, an officer of NARTH (the National Association of Research and Therapy of Homosexuality) said getting rid of reparative therapy would be damaging for people who are unhappy with their sexual orientation by "making them feel that no change is possible at all." Others claim that Chambers is just using is public platform to make politically and personally motivated decisions. The president of a group called Parents and Friends of Ex-Gays said, "I think Mr. Chambers is tired of his own personal struggles, so he's making excuses for them by making sweeping generalizations about others." Thus far, though, only 11 ministries formerly associated with Exodus have left.
Still, the future of Exodus International and the ex-gay movement seems up in the air. In addition to Spitzer's apology and Chambers' denouncement of reparative therapy, the movement is up against political pressure. The California Senate recently passed a bill prohibiting reparative therapy for minors and advocates hope to push for similar bills in other states. While NARTH and others continue to vehemently oppose such legislation the power of these groups seems to be on the decline and this widely publicized rift—between those in the movement who embrace reparative therapy and those who admit it can never truly work—can only serve to weaken them further. Perhaps we are not that far from the day Bussee imagined when Exodus and those that followed go out of business.
In the meantime, however, we do still have to keep a close eye on these groups because the messages they are sending—even the new-and-improved ones—continue to be based on the flawed premise that homosexual behaviors are morally wrong. Until that message disappears, these groups can and will continue to do harm.


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Remember When Archive: December 10-14
Remember when the Chicago Sky celebrated the 40th Anniversary of Title IX by recognizing nine female leaders, coaches and advocates who exemplified the success of this important legislation. The list of notable women included Margaret Stender, chairwoman, former president and CEO of the Chicago Sky; Amy Skeen, president and CEO of Girls in the Game; Lisa Cole, founder of the Chicago Force; Peg Kopec, volleyball coach at St. Francis High School in Wheaton; Ramelia Williams, former Chicago director of Go Girl Go!; Maria Wynne, CEO for Girl Scouts of Greater Chicago and Northwest Indiana; and Lt. Governor Sheila Simon. Title IX Teamers Sarah Spain, ESPN/ESPNW contributor and reporter and Julie Foudy, former member of USA Womens Soccer Team were also recognized but unable to attend.
Click here to look back at the Skys Title IX celebration
December 13, 2012
Remember when Sylvia Fowles and Swin Cash suited up for Team USA to participate in their second Olympic games in London this summer and came home with the gold! Team USA defeated Croatia, Angola, Turkey, Czech Republic, China, Canada, Australia on their way to the gold medal game against France which they won 86-50.
Both players returned to Chicago to join their Sky teammates after being away for a month and took the court against the Atlanta Dream where Sky fans gave them a standing ovation as they showed off their gold medals before tip off.
Click here for photos of Swin and Sylvia with their gold medals.
December 12, 2012
Remember when ESPN Chicago and the Sky players, coaches, staff gathered together at Joes Bar on Weed Street to enjoy an afternoon of fun, food and basketball and cheer on our Olympians Sylvia Fowles and Swin Cash as Team USA took on Australia in the Semi Final game of the 2012 London Olympics.
Fans mingled with the Sky players, enjoyed a complimentary lunch and won some great Sky prizes while cheering Big Syl and Swin to the victory and a place in the gold medal game.
Click here for photos from the event.
December 11, 2012
Remember when Lecoe Willingham and Carolyn Swords spent the afternoon attending the American Diabetes Associations (ADA) overnight camp at the YMCA Camp Duncan in Ingleside, IL. As part of the Skys partnership with ADA and Sanofi US, Carolyn and Lecoe, hosted a Dribble to Stop Diabetes basketball event for 140 campers. The week long camp is designed to allow kids with diabetes to have a good time in a safe environment and meet other kids that they can relate to.
Click here to see photos from the Dribble to Stop Diabetes Clinic.
December 10, 2012
Remember when Ticha Penicheiro traded in her gym shoes for heels to walk the run way for charity this summer. Ticha, a fashion lover, participated in The New Look of Leadership: A Fashion Event Benefitting YWCA Metropolitan Chicago. Ticha underwent fittings and worked with a stylist to decide on her final look. She took along fellow fashionista and team mate Shay Murphy to watch and cheer for her as she took to the run way in Bloomingdales. Could this be Tichas new profession now that shes retired well just have to wait and see.
Click here to see photos from Tichas runway experience.
We want to share your favorite moments from the 2012 Sky season. Email your moment and/or any photos to firstname.lastname@example.com and we will Remember When with one of your moments on ChicagoSky.net every day
Click here to view the Sky Remember When archives.


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I'm not sure that I'm going to make it. I'm really not.
Our son has only had his driver's permit for four weeks and already I think I've worn a hole in the carpet on the passenger side floorboard where the emergency brake pedal should be. I believe there's also a permanent handprint in the door handle where I've gripped it so often.
How do parents survive these six months before kids can drive alone? Should kids even be allowed to drive alone - ever?
Connor Wilhoit celebrated his fourth birthday with a SpongeBob party at Woodlawn Christian Church. Helping him celebrate were, from left, Mia Blaydes, Ava Laymance, Connor, Braxton Smith, Seth Smith, Truman Hall and Haley Carter. Also helping celebrate was his big brother, Anthony Wilhoit. Connor is the son of Kevin and Kim Wilhoit and the grandson of Winsfred and Lois Skaggs and Rose Murphy, all of Campbellsville.
Taylor County Elementary School was alive with the sounds of Christmas and bustling activities Friday night. The school's choir staged a performance of holiday tunes and dance numbers to entertain the crowd of parents, grandparents and friends.
Santa was on hand for a photo shoot along with supper, a cakewalk, a Christmas ornament craft table and face painting.
Taylor County Girl Scout Troops 222 and 2164 visited Schimpff's Confectionery in Jeffersonville, Ind. on Nov. 22.
The girls received a tour of the facility and watched candy being made - the same way it was made when the store was founded in 1891.
The troops also stopped in Shepherdsville and visited Hawk's View Gallery and made their own glass Christmas ornament. The girls were able to blow the glass for the ornaments and watch the entire process.
Shoes. Clothing. School supplies. Even a toy or two. After several years' absence, the local Kentucky State Police "Shop with a Trooper" program is back. And we know of at least seven kids who are happy about that.
On Thursday evening, about a dozen troopers hit Wal-Mart to shop with seven kids from Taylor, Green, Casey, Marion and Washington counties. It's part of an outreach program that not only helps kids meet some basic needs, but also shines a positive light on law enforcement.
Six couples graduated from the prenatal and childbirth classes taught by Taylor Regional Hospital in November. The five-week series is free to anyone delivering at TRH. The class is taught by Jenny Dobson, RN, MSN, CLC, CCE. For more information, call 465-3561 Ext. 2232. Pictured are, from left, Tammy Wilson (partner Rick Wilson is absent) of Campbellsville; Cheslee and Daryl Stone of Greensburg; Margena and Rod Keltner of Campbellsville; Brandy and Josh Curry of Greensburg; Brittany and Jerry Streeval of Knifley; and Leah and Patrick McMahan of Campbellsville.
Taylor County Republican Women donated $50 to Campbellsville/Taylor County Rescue for its Toys for Tots campaign. Pictured are, from left, Allen Bottoms, rescue director; Marlyn Shreve, president; and Margaret Stewart, corresponding secretary.
Aside from closing both school systems, the winter storm that threatened Central Kentucky with a blanket of ice left little impact in Taylor County.
"We had a couple of minor accidents and some slick roads in rural parts of the county," said Ronnie Dooley, Campbellsville/Taylor County E-911 dispatcher and Taylor County Emergency Management public information coordinator. "Due to everyone having had advanced warning of the situation, there were not that many people on the road."
Bailout. I used to equate this with the penal system - as in bail someone out of jail.
Lately, bailout has taken on a new meaning - as in bail out companies and businesses whose poor decisions put them in dire financial straits.
First, the U.S. Congress bailed out the nation's financial markets to the tune of $700 billion.
While this plan initially left me scratching my head, I began to see the wisdom after a few local experts put it into layman's terms for me.
Taylor County Republican Women donated $100 to the Taylor County Ministerial Association. Pictured are, from left, Marlyn Shreve, president; Marietta Moyers, food pantry representative; and Margaret Stewart, corresponding secretary.
Copyright © 2017
The Central Kentucky News-Journal is your source for local news, sports, events, and information in Campbellsville, KY and the surrounding area.


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In All Likelihood, There's A Vacancy In The Atlanta Hawks Sales Dept. Starting Tomorrow Morning.
There's no shortage of teams who'd like a shot at Chris Paul (above) and Dwight Howard this offseason, but given that neither become unrestricted free agents until July 1, only a franchise begging the NBA to issue a hefty fine would make a public statement about either player. However, that's just what the Atlanta Hawks did this week, targeting pootential ticket buyers with a sales pitch that specifically mentions two players currently under contract elsewhere. From the Atlanta Journal-Constitution's Chris Viviamore :
The letter, obtained by The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, was sent via email by a member of the ticket-sales department. It was on team letterhead and headlined "Hot New Player news: Chris Paul and Dwight Howard." It began with the statement: "The buzz around our offseason is more than heating up. With massive cap space, 4 draft picks, and free agency rapidly approaching, we sit in the best position in the NBA. Player interest is skyrocketing as the possibilities of landing Chris Paul & Dwight Howard become more and more of a reality."
The letter included a link to a story on ESPN.com reporting that Paul was unhappy with the notion that he played a role in the dismissal of coach Vinny Del Negro last month.
"This is your opportunity to get on board before its (sic) too late. Once we solidify our signings there will be no seats left," the letter added.


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I am having lots of pain in right breast to the point don't touch. I am 2 weeks post op I had 250 cc silicone under muscle incision under breast, it almost feels like the implant is in the middle of my chest. I am to the point I want these out. I have had a allergy to the surgical glue and after a week is still there and now this. The right nipple is also hypersensitive. I am getting pretty depressed I did this.
Pain After 2 Weeks?
Doctor Answers 7
Breast augmentation and concerns
It is best to see your doctor to evaluate your breasts to make sure that what you are experiencing is normal. It is difficult to say without the exam. Good luck.
Pain after implants
It is hard to tell what is going on just by your description. Please see your PS asap as this may be a problem.
Pain after 2 weeks (Breast Aug)
Your breasts are settling and the nerve has become irritated. You are still early in healing and the issues you have mentioned will subside over time. I know it must be hard to deal with this but it really does get better. If you are this concerned then you should speak with your plastic surgeon and have him/ her correlate the symptoms with an exam.
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Pain from stretched nerves feels like a deep ache or burn
What happens is the lateral intercostal nerves, those that come up between the ribs, were stretched by your activity and the implant. The result is a shooting, stabbing type pain. At times this pain can feel like a deep burn or an ache. Gentle massage along the lateral edge of the breast usually helps. This pain is not usually indicative of any problem with the implant or your result and will get better over time.
Significant asymmetric pain after breast augmentation should be evaluated by the surgeon.
Most patients experience different levels of pain in each breast after breast augmentation. If there is a major difference particularly associated with asymmetry in volume then your surgeon should evaluate it.
Learn more: http://www.zubowicz.com/procedures
Unresolved Post Operative Pain?
Despite best intentions, online consultants will not be able to be of much help to you. You should be aware however that issues such as allergies, postoperative "depression" and/or nipple hypersensitivity are temporary. Your plastic surgeon will be your best resource when it comes to evaluating the discomfort you are having.
At this point, my best advice would be to continue to follow-up with your plastic surgeon, try to stay as emotionally even keeled and patient as possible, and allow for several months to pass before evaluating the end results of the procedure performed. Hopefully, that point, you will be pleased with the outcome and your decision to have had breast augmentation surgery.
Learn more: http://www.poustiplasticsurgery.com/Procedures/Procedure_breastAugmentation.htm
Pain After 2 Weeks?
These issues will be best discussed in person with your surgeon rather than by online consultants who don't know you and haven't followed your recovery. Some of the symptoms may well have simple treatment short of removing the implants. All the best.
These answers are for educational purposes and should not be relied upon as a substitute for medical advice you may receive from your physician. If you have a medical emergency, please call 911. These answers do not constitute or initiate a patient/doctor relationship.


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The Foundation
"As long as the reason of man continues fallible, and he is at liberty to exercise it, different opinions will be formed." –James Madison
Government & Politics
Media Duped by Nobel Prize Prank
Wait, it's not a hoax? Are they serious? Early Friday morning, the Norwegian Nobel Committee announced that Barack Obama would receive a consolation prize for losing out on the 2016 Olympics – namely the 2009 Nobel Peace Prize.
Here in our humble editorial shop, our first reaction was, naturally, to spew coffee on our keyboards. Our second reaction was to wonder, For what? There's been no signing of peace treaties, no ending of wars, no stopping of nuclear proliferation. Obama hasn't stood up for human rights in China, hasn't denounced the oppression of women in the Muslim world, hasn't stared down brutal dictators such as Castro, Chavez, Kim and Ahmadinejad. Again, we ask: For what?
The Nobel Committee explains that it was "his extraordinary efforts to strengthen international diplomacy and cooperation between peoples," and the fact that he has "created a new climate in international politics." Didn't Al Gore get the award two years ago for seeking to stop climate change?
Thorbjoern Jagland, chairman of the Nobel Committee, gushed, "Only very rarely has a person to the same extent as Obama captured the world's attention and given its people hope for a better future." In other words, it was the Nobel Prize for Narcissism. Unfortunately, the committee did not pass out barf bags prior to the announcement.
Apparently, the fact that the community organizer took up residence in the White House less than two weeks before the Feb. 1 nomination deadline was not as important to the committee as being able to give a slap in the face to his resolute predecessor, George W. Bush. It certainly sends a message against actually winning in Afghanistan.
The president joins other you've-got-to-be-kidding winners Jimmy Carter, who is largely responsible for present-day Iran, Gore, who does nothing but scare people about global warming, and Palestinian terrorist Yasser Arafat, who assumed room temperature in 2004. Obama's win is one more sign that the award has long since jumped the shark.
Blogger David Bernstein has started a great list of the "Top Ten Reasons Obama Won the Nobel Peace Prize." Among our favorites are these: "For extraordinary diplomacy at the Gates-Crowley 'Beer Summit'"; and a reader's suggestion, "He was the 10th caller."
Hope 'n' Change: There's More to Obama's Olympic Fail
As we all know by now, last Thursday, Barack Obama took time away from a raging war and a terrible economy to fly to Copenhagen to lobby in person for the 2016 Olympic Games to be hosted in his "home" city of Chicago. The Windy City was blown out of the competition in the first round, though, and the Games eventually went to Rio de Janeiro, taking the Olympics to South America for the first time.
But here's the kicker. Not only was Obama's own political capital spent, but he squandered taxpayers' capital as well. The Pentagon recently estimated the cost of flying Air Force One at $100,219 an hour – without Obama on board. At that rate, Obama's 14-hour excursion tapped taxpayers for at least $1.4 million. Other passengers jacking up the price included White House Senior Adviser Valerie Jarrett, Education Secretary Arne Duncan and Transportation Secretary Ray LaHood. First lady Michelle Obama traveled to Copenhagen separately, though she claimed she was making a "sacrifice" to do it.
Assorted leftists had a conniption over the results, with some, including the "Reverend" Jesse Jackson, going so far as to blame – wait for it – George W. Bush for the worldwide ill will that cost Chicago the Games. "The way we [refused to sign] the Kyoto Treaty, we misled the world into Iraq. The world had a very bad taste in its mouth about us," Jackson complained. Never mind that Kyoto was unanimously rejected by the U.S. Senate in 1997, four years before Bush took office.
Fortunately, Obama can finally claim to have actually saved jobs. Nine of them, to be exact. The first-ever White House Olympic Office will stay in business, continuing to employ its staffers. Doing what, we don't know.
Finally, if there's one thing Obama's Olympic Fail settled, it's that we can't compare him to Adolf Hitler in all things. At least Hitler brought the Olympics to Berlin.
On Cross-Examination
"Hey Chicago, has it ever occurred to you that maybe the International Olympic Committee just isn't that into you? It's not as though the choices were to hold the games in the Windy City or cancel them altogether. Maybe the IOC delegates chose Rio de Janeiro on the basis of its merits as a venue. The notion that it must have been motivated by hatred of America reflects a most unattractive combination of arrogance and self-pity. –Wall Street Journal columnist James Taranto
Democrats Still Have a Few Tricks in the Bag on Health Care
The normally reliable Congressional Budget Office released a report on the Democrats' proposed takeover of the health care system this week. The report absurdly claimed that a Senate panel's $829 billion package would not add to the federal deficit. As we reflect that George W. Bush's Medicare prescription drug program alone created $7 trillion in unfunded liabilities, it appears that the CBO is using a lot of outcome-based math for its calculations.
The CBO's report, however, is not exactly hard and fast. As Sen. Lamar Alexander (R-TN) points out, "This is an estimate of a concept, not a formal cost analysis of an actual bill." No matter. The Leftmedia are gleefully reporting the "no new debt" part of the report without that unfortunate detail. It's all part of trying to get the so-called fiscally conservative "Blue Dog" Democrats to heel and vote for the bill.
There are other details worth mentioning. For example, the plan would still leave uninsured 16 million of the supposed 47 million currently uninsured. And Democrats claimed no one would be left behind.
According to The Washington Post, "[T]he package would raise $200 billion more by levying a 40 percent excise tax on high-cost insurance policies – the 'Cadillac' plans that cost more than $8,000 for individuals or $21,000 for a family." The House plans to slap a "surtax" on income above $500,000 rather than impose the "Cadillac" tax.
Meanwhile, House Speaker Nancy Pelosi (D-CA) says she's open to a value-added tax, or VAT, to help finance the plan. "Somewhere along the way, a value-added tax plays into this," she said. "Of course, we want to take down the health care cost, that's one part of it. But in the scheme of things, I think it's fair to look at a value-added tax as well."
The VAT is a tax on manufacturers and distributors at every stage based on the "value" added to a product by each additional step, and it's largely hidden from consumers. As a result, it's attractive to politicians – even ones who promised not to raise taxes on the middle class. Almost every European country with socialized medicine also has a VAT, and if the health care takeover is accomplished, then the same should be anticipated for the United States.
With all of these shenanigans, is it any surprise that Democrats defeated an amendment to post the bill online for the American people to read before the vote? Indeed, rather than adhering to Barack Obama's promise of transparency, the Heritage Foundation's blog, The Foundry, details "the four part scenario that would railroad the bill through the Senate using a very unusual closed door procedure to craft the bill with no input from the American people." This includes some legislative tricks such as attaching it to an unrelated tax bill or using reconciliation, meaning only 51 votes, not the filibuster ending 60, are required in the Senate.
But don't worry: Democrats know what's best for you.
The BIG Lie
"When you cut through all the noise and all the distractions that are out there, I think what's most telling is that some of the people who are most supportive of reform are the very medical professionals who know the health care system best." –Barack Obama before a Rose Garden gathering of about 150 Obama-activist doctors in white lab coats – that the White House passed out, the better to stage the photo op
The truth, however, as noted in a recent Investor's Business Daily poll, is that two-thirds of doctors oppose ObamaCare, and nearly half said they would consider leaving medicine if it passes.
This Week's 'Braying Jackass' Award
"I don't expect to actually read the legislative language [of the health care bill] because reading the legislative language is among the more confusing things I've ever read in my life." –Sen. Thomas Carper (D-DE)
Less Hot Air From the Federal Government?
Expanding an initiative originally authored by President George W. Bush in 2007, President Obama signed an executive order setting emissions targets for federal agencies to be met by the year 2020. Federal agencies now have 90 days to spell out how much they will reduce the greenhouse gas load from their facilities, with the more difficult setting of reduction goals for employee commutes and travel due by the middle of next year. Obama's revision of the Executive Order added long-term goals missing in Bush's original.
Noble as these ideals may be (cough, cough), the difference between this executive order and the pending cap-n-tax legislation before Congress is that private-sector companies would be penalized for not meeting the goals set by legislation, whereas the executive order exempts all federal agencies from any penalty for not meeting the guidelines. Indeed, the order states, "This order is intended only to improve the internal management of the Federal Government and is not intended to, and does not, create any right or benefit, substantive or procedural, enforceable at law or in equity by any party against the United States."
If only the onerous environmental regulations proposed by Congress and put in place by faceless Beltway bureaucrats for the rest of us would be so lax.
News From the Swamp: Rangel Stays Put
The House voted 246-153 to refer a GOP privileged resolution (H Res 805) to the Ethics Committee. The resolution was aimed at forcing out New York Democrat Charlie Rangel as chairman of the powerful Ways and Means Committee until completion of an investigation into his shady financial dealings. The vote effectively killed the resolution, though the Ethics Committee voted Thursday to expand the probe to look into Rangel's failure to report $500,000 in assets on financial disclosure forms – a minor oversight.
Rep. John Carter (R-TX) sponsored the resolution, saying, "We cannot tolerate a double standard in this country, one for the common man and another for the rich and powerful. To allow Mr. Rangel to continue to serve as chairman … sends a clear message to the American public that this government refuses to abide by the same laws they impose on the working people of this country." Leave it to Democrats to circle the wagons around another scofflaw. And so much for Nancy Pelosi's raving back in 2006 about the "culture of corruption."
New & Notable Legislation
The Senate passed the Pentagon budget, including war funding this week by a vote of 93-7. The $626 billion measure also bans the transfer of Guantanamo residents to prisons in the United States and includes $128 billion for Operations Enduring and Iraqi Freedom.
The House voted 281-146 Thursday to pass its $680 billion defense-spending bill, complete with the totally unrelated expansion of federal hate crimes to include those committed against people because of their sexual disorientation.
Republican Suicide
In a potential political suicide, the New York Republican Party selected NY State Assembly member Dierdre "Dede" Scozzafava to replace U.S. Rep. John McHugh (confirmed as Barack Obama's Secretary of the Army) in an upcoming NY-23 special election. In the ultimate sign of these perverted times, supporting Scozzafava is the National Republican Congressional Committee – along with ACORN, SEIU and their affiliate, the Working Families Party.
To get those dubious endorsements, Scozzafava backs Obama's stimulus bill(s), Card Check, Cash for Clunkers and the Davis Bacon Act; refuses to sign either no tax or no pork pledges; and voted for bank bailouts, forced union dues payments from NY state employees and more than 190 instances of higher taxes. Furthermore, the company for which she recently resigned as chief operating officer has over $192,000 in tax liens.
As for the Republican endorsement, it is just a dark indication of how lost and misguided the GOP remains to this day.
If Scozzafava sounds like the ideal Democrat candidate, she is – NY Democrats considered running her as their candidate but, allegedly, developed cold feet over, of all things, the tax issue (or maybe Democrats calculated it easiest to run her with an R in a Republican district, especially considering the weak political novice Democrat attorney that they did choose.)
The third choice in this three-horse race is NY Conservative Party candidate Doug Hoffman. With national backlash against both parties and with endorsements from powerhouses Fred Thompson and the Club for Growth, Hoffman has strong polling numbers. But, as the mother's milk of politics, Hoffman requires substantial financial backing, and quickly, to defeat his ACORN/SEUI/WFP opponent and send true hope and change to Washington.
Obama No Friend of Dalai Lama
It's been at least 18 years since the Dalai Lama trekked to Washington without paying a visit to the White House, but this week's visit from the Tibetan religious leader lacks a meeting with Peace Prize-winning Barack Obama. And while an appointment with House Speaker Nancy Pelosi is on the agenda, the fact that Obama is snubbing a face-to-face visit with this prominent human rights advocate and critic of the Chinese regime is yet another signal of his willingness to bow to the world's despots. Strangely, it also serves as a rare break from the Obama sycophants in Hollywood who desire to "free Tibet."
Furthermore, environmental concerns can't be discounted. Considering the huge sum of Treasury bonds currently held by the Chinese government, this appeasement could be seen as part of a larger shift in our relationship with China. The administration appears willing to overlook Chinese human rights and trade abuses in the interest of worldwide cooperation on environmental issues.
While the Dalai Lama is a man symbolic of a people's plight, China's abuse of its Tibetan minority is real. It's unfortunate that, while Obama snubs their religious leader, Tibetans may be persecuted out of their enjoyment of the greener planet Obama's supporters seek in their dealings with the Beijing regime.
Clearly, standing firm for human rights in the face of tyranny is not a prerequisite for winning the Nobel Peace Prize.
From the Left: ACORN Fraud Numbers Are Fudged Too
Leave it to ACORN to prune its own accounting. While the community organizers have admitted to the embezzlement of just under $1 million by then-president Wade Rathke, documents acquired under subpoena by Louisiana Attorney General Buddy Caldwell peg the take up to $5 million. Rathke and an anonymous donor repaid the $1 million, but the whereabouts of any additional money not previously accounted for is unknown.
Caldwell's investigation, which centers on alleged violations of state employee tax law and obstruction of justice, comes at a time when ACORN is already under fire for advising two undercover investigative reporters on how to skirt tax law and bring illegal aliens into the country as child prostitutes. The fallout from that scandal has led to renewed efforts (still pending in Congress) to de-fund ACORN of the millions of federal dollars they receive and ACORN's removal from "assisting" in next year's census.
Essential Liberty Project
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National Security
Warfront With Jihadistan: McCrossing Swords With The One
The Leftmedia reported this week that "The One" was unhappy with his commander in Afghanistan, Gen. Stanley A. McChrystal. Shortly after the publication of a leaked report warning of a high potential for failure without additional forces, the general publicly disclosed his request to the commander in chief for 40,000 additional troops. Gen McChrystal currently leads 68,000 U.S. as well as 100,000 NATO troops in Afghanistan.
In advocating his position – actually, the president's position announced by Obama in March – Gen. McChrystal flatly rejected a diametrically opposed half-measure favored by many leftists, including Vice President Joseph Biden. That alternative favors a significantly scaled-back presence composed of unmanned aerial vehicles and Special Operations forces, a move McChrystal characterized as leading to "Chaos-istan" – this state is also known as "Democrat-istan," but we digress. The general further highlighted the folly of this option metaphorically, remarking, "You can't hope to contain the fire by letting just half the building burn."
Of course, liberals immediately launched the Newspeak juggernaut to undermine both McChrystal and his request. Tactics included hauling out the usual "experts" to comment on the "constitutionality" of the general's "insubordination," and of course the inevitable comparison to Gen. Douglas MacArthur and his high-visibility firing by President Harry Truman during the Korean conflict. Unfortunately, logic and an objective understanding of history have never been a strong suit for Dim-o-crats, as evidenced by their failure to appreciate the substantial disconnect deriving from the MacArthur-McChrystal comparison.
In the former case, MacArthur disobeyed a direct order by the president to sue for a negotiated peace, instead issuing his own call for victory and public announcement that U.S. forces could easily defeat opposing forces in battle. Truman promptly removed the general for blatantly disobeying orders and challenging authority. In contrast, if anything, Gen. McChrystal's remarks simply detailed conditions necessary to satisfy the administration's policy mandated when he assumed command in Afghanistan.
For our part, we believe Gen. McChrystal understands the score very well in Afghanistan. Having weighed the options, he took a calculated gamble to use the media to place the onus on Obama to follow through with his stipulated policy. Gen. McChrystal and, more importantly, his troops lose that gamble only if he receives just enough support from the Obama administration not to get the job done. Of course, that would never happen – right?
This Week's 'Alpha Jackass' Award
"We know that al-Qa'ida and its extremist allies threaten us from different quarters of the globe, from Pakistan, but also from East Africa and Southeast Asia, from Europe and the Gulf; and that's why we're applying focus and relentless pressure to al-Qa'ida by sharing more intelligence, strengthening the capacity of our partners, disrupting terrorist financing, cutting off supply chains and inflicting major losses on al-Qa'ida's leadership." –Barack Obama, neglecting to mention Afghanistan or Iraq as places we're fighting al-Qa'ida
IAEA Director Attacks Israel
"Israel is the number one threat to the Middle East, given the nuclear arms it possesses." So said International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) Director General Mohamed ElBaradei, a career Egyptian bureaucrat, this week in Tehran. ElBaradei, while announcing a coming inspection of the rogue Iranian regime's nuclear program, took the opportunity to sound off on Israel, complaining about the Jewish state's 30-year refusal to allow nuclear inspections. Israel will not confirm or deny its nuclear arsenal, but neither is it threatening total annihilation of other Middle Eastern countries. For the record, Iran is.
As noted by Investor's Business Daily, "Looking back on the past four decades, the Jewish state's policy of refusing to confirm or deny its nuclear arsenal is, as the Old Testament proverb goes, a wisdom 'more precious than rubies.' The only fully free, Westernized country in the Middle East has been able to let its surrounding enemies know that it will defend itself with the deadliest of force if its existence comes under direct threat." Meanwhile, ElBaradei is barking up the wrong tree – and not unintentionally.
Immigration Front: Arpaio Handcuffed on Alien Arrests
"The Obama administration is curbing the powers of an Arizona sheriff who has led one of the most contentious fights against illegal immigrants," reports The Wall Street Journal. "Under an agreement involving local enforcement of federal immigration law, Sheriff Joe Arpaio's deputies will no longer have the authority to arrest suspected illegal immigrants in the streets in the course of their duty."
Long a lightning rod in the immigration debate, Arpaio has arrested approximately 30,000 illegals since 2007 as part of a partnership with the federal government. But the sheriff was forced to sign a revised agreement restricting his ability to determine immigration status of those inmates booked into Maricopa County jails – it can no longer be a reason for federal arrest by county officers. Lest readers think old Joe caved, however, he declared, "They took away my authority on the streets. That doesn't matter because I will still pursue illegals on the streets of Maricopa utilizing the authority I have as the elected official."
Business & Economy
Dollar Looking Weaker
With the dollar's continued decline due to excessive debt racked up by the Obama administration, the oil-rich nations of the Middle East, along with a cabal of other countries including Russia and China, are discussing a switch to currencies other than the dollar for trading oil. This would mark the first currency change since the Bretton Woods Agreements (signed during WWII) collapsed in the early 1970s, eventually resulting in the U.S. dollar as the world's reserve currency.
Such a switch away from the dollar obviously portends a loss of American influence on the world's currency system. This erosion of the dollar is a direct result of out-of-control government spending, debt and money printing. These policies have so destabilized the dollar that even the Communist Chinese government has asked the administration to change course before inflation further devalues the dollar and Chinese investments in the United States.
Unfortunately, Obama's agenda doesn't include saving the dollar. When the dollar crashes under the pressures of unsound monetary policies and rising inflation, it will be too late to refocus.
Kerry Says Recession Helps Environment
Echoing White House Chief of Staff Rahm Emanuel's maxim, "Never let a serious crisis go to waste," Sen. John F. Kerry (D-MA) wants to capitalize on, extend and even increase current unemployment rates to cut carbon dioxide emissions. Endorsing draft legislation of a so called "cap and trade" bill co-introduced with Sen. Barbara Boxer (D-CA), Kerry stated, "Let me emphasize something very strongly as we begin this discussion. The United States has already this year alone achieved a 6 percent reduction in emissions simply because of the downturn in the economy, so we are effectively saying we need to go another 14 percent."
Translated: the recession is good for the environment, so we should make it permanent. Or, as the Heritage Foundation notes, "It took a solid year for the United States to reach 10 percent unemployment through the financial meltdown and the housing crisis, let's keep it there, or make it worse, with cap and trade. Why not be even more aggressive?" Democrats apparently want 18 percent unemployment to hit the magic 20 percent reduction in CO2 emissions. Never mind the nearly two million jobs that cap and tax will extinguish by 2012. What's a job when the environment is supposedly in question? Nice to know where Senator Kerry's priorities lie.
Meanwhile, Leighton Steward, a geologist and former believer in global warming is on Capitol Hill this week to inform our wise representatives that CO2 does not cause warming. In fact, carbon dioxide emissions are good for the planet.
Predictably, Auto Sales Plummet After 'Clunkers' Ends
Despite plaudits by Transportation Secretary Ray LaHood as "the one stimulus program that seems to be working better than just about any other program," Cash for Clunkers has turned out to be one big flunker. As The Wall Street Journal reports, not only did this bureaucratic brainchild drive a 25 percent drop in new car sales for U.S. automakers in September as compared with last year, but the program's grand vision of advancing environmental salvation translated into a mere 0.2 percent reduction in annual oil consumption (less than one day's worth), and that's a best-case scenario.
To top it off, according to the University of Delaware's Burton Abrams and George Parson, all factors considered, the program imposed a net cost of about $2,000 per vehicle. In short, government made the country $1.4 billion poorer and spent nearly $3 billion to do so. And that's Washington's definition of a "working" program.
Culture & Policy
From the 'Non Compos Mentis' File
It's a well-known fact that mockumentarian Michael Moore is a self-aggrandizing gasbag, but perhaps right now we should be thanking him. In keeping with the filmmaker's love of shooting his mouth off, he recently "outed" ObamaCare in Rolling Stone Magazine. "If a true public option is enacted – and Obama knows this – it will eventually bring about a single-payer system, because the profit-making insurance companies won't be able to compete with a government-run plan and make the profits they want to make. I probably shouldn't be saying this, but I'm counting on the fact that Republicans won't be reading Rolling Stone."
Moore made no bones about the fact that he supports the single-payer system that exists in "every other Western democracy." Clearly, he had not done his research on the quality of health care in England and Canada, and he most certainly does not realize (or care) that, if Obama gets his way, there will be nowhere to run for those in other countries who are acutely ill and not receiving treatment in a timely manner.
"Capitalism: A Love Story," Moore's new film, is doing about as well as the market will bear. On its opening weekend, it came in seventh among commercial releases, bringing in only $4.8 million from 962 theaters. This is a far cry from the unfortunate success of "Fahrenheit 9/11." Perhaps Americans are onto Moore and looking for real facts this time, not Moore's twisted version of them.
So, Mr. Moore, first of all, some Republicans do read Rolling Stone Magazine. Perhaps they know it's prudent to keep abreast of what the leftist propaganda machine is cranking out; perhaps they just like pop music. Second, it's not just Republicans who are fighting ObamaCare – it's every Patriot willing to stand up and fight for what we as a nation hold dear: self-determination.
Climate Change This Week: Antarctic Ice Report
According to World Climate Report, "The ice melt across during the Antarctic summer (October-January) of 2008-2009 was the lowest ever recorded in the satellite history." Marco Tedesco and Andrew Monaghan, in the journal Geophysical Research Letters, report, "A 30-year minimum Antarctic snowmelt record occurred during austral summer 2008-2009 according to space borne microwave observations for 1980-2009. Strong positive phases of both the El-Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Southern Hemisphere Annular Mode (SAM) were recorded during the months leading up to and including the 2008-2009 melt season."
So where is all the media attention? NASA researchers for years have dutifully released a plentiful supply of stories about melting sea ice in the Arctic, but icy news at the South Pole has yet to prompt a NASA report. Obviously, if warmers can silence the opposition, it helps build the hoax – er, "consensus."
Village Academic Curriculum: Videos of the Week
Courtesy of Real Clear Politics, "Kids from the Ron Clark Academy are on CNN singing for health care reform set to Miley Cyrus' 'Party in the USA.' The song mentions 'Obama says everyone needs health care now.'"
From Michelle Malkin, "Take a look at the Obama worship song that students at Longfellow Elementary in Howard County, MD were assigned to memorize last week."
Meanwhile, Obama's "Safe School Czar" Kevin Jennings – the one we reported last week failed to disclose a 15-year-old boy's homosexual relationship with an adult male – complained this week that "kids are being aggressively recruited to become heterosexual in this country." And to reiterate, he's in charge of making schools "safe."
Faith and Family: DC to Allow Same-Sex Marriage
Speaking of promoting certain sexual disorientations, the Washington, DC, City Council introduced legislation Tuesday to allow same-sex marriage in the District. The bill will likely become law by the end of the year. Once Mayor Adrian Fenty signs the bill, it goes to Congress, which has 30 days to pass a joint resolution of disapproval. That, in turn, would have to be signed by Barack Obama. So, in addition to Massachusetts, Vermont, Connecticut and Iowa, DC will allow such nuptials soon.
And Last…
"Saturday Night Live" last week featured a skit involving "Barack Obama" evaluating a checklist of campaign promises, such as closing Guantanamo Bay, getting out of Iraq, "reforming" health care and more. He concludes, "So looking at this list, I'm seeing two big accomplishments: jack and squat." But wait, he adds, "I brought a white police officer and a black professor together for a beer. Who else could do that? … You're right – Oprah – but no one else."
The skit was mildly humorous, because, of course, Obama already has done much to America. But, as usual, the Left has no sense of humor when it comes to their own. Believe it or not, CNN actually took the time to "fact check" the skit, complete with an interview of Politifact "expert" Bill Adair. CNN's Kareen Wynter couldn't resist a swipe at Republicans, saying SNL's Obama skit "won't resonate with the audience as much as … comic Tina Fey's dead-on impersonation of former GOP vice presidential candidate, Sarah Palin." If CNN really wanted to fact check this comedy show, they might point out that, in the Eastern Time Zone, more than half of "Saturday Night Live" is not actually on Saturday night.


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|Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
|YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
|Spring through Fall - Road closed to snow til early June
|Page Views:
|Submitted By:
|ARob on Jun 28, 2008
|Comments on Jet Stream
|Add Comment
|Show which comments —
By Bruce Eng
Jul 28, 2008
|Actually its possible to set up a top rope on Jet Stream without too much trouble. From the upper trail, walk out onto the higher rock to the left (when looking out) of the top of Jet Stream and then find the anchor bolts that are for some of the climbs that descend into the gully. From these bolts you can set up a rappel to safely get across the chasm and onto the rock where the Jet Stream anchor bolts are located. From here you can pull you rope and set up a rappel down to the bottom of Jet Stream. Now you have a top rope.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Can someone explain how an 80 foot sport route can be a grade V?
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A difficult 5.9+, but a very good climb. However I think Jet Wind is a much better climb.
Though different anchors it shares the same lunch spot as Jet Wind.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This route is NOT 5.9. Rumor has it that it was downgraded from the original 5.10- grade by an unknown person. Following the bolts is a solid 5.10b IMO. If you deviate about 10' to the right hear the top roof, it would be about a 5.9. A hard 5.9 at that, as the first crux is a solid 5.10a.
By cconradd
From: Washougal, WA
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The anchors are looking sketchy as of 9/27/14. Both are spinners, but it does not appear that the bolts have backed off, I think they might have pulled a little? Both bolts are sort of bendy when weight is applied.
I'm not an expert on fixed pro by any means, but this anchor worried me. Maybe next time someone with more experience is out there they can take a look.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|I'm replacing a bunch of bolts soon at French's Dome and Broughtons Bluff, should have a few extra. I'll take a look at the anchors and see about replacing them.
By CamBrown
From: Clackamas
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Really fun sustained climbing for the grade (5.10a perhaps). Decent rest opportunities and great views from the top! Love the route!
Micah, The anchors were sketchy as of June 14th 2015. Hangers and bolts were rusty and moved/flexed when weighted. I traversed/climbed over to and rapped off of Jet Wind's anchors about 5-10 feet right of Jet Stream. IMO the anchors should be replaced as soon as possible. Thank you!
By Vince Schreck
From: Portland, OR
Jun 29, 2015
Climbed this route 6/28/2015. I don't think the anchor has been changed out, but it didn't alarm me.
I did pretty much what Bruce suggested to access these climbs from the top. I setup a rappel from the last set of anchors along the top. I equalized a couple of cams to redirect off the anchor. Without doing that, the rap direction is not quite the right angle.
As far as the route, yes, I agree with everyone that the route is sort of a sandbag at 5.9. If you follow the bolt line at the first bulge (left side of the arete) straight over the roof, it's incredibly thin and overhanging. I think it felt like hard 5.10 (c or d). I think the secret is to head left, clip the bolt, and then pull back around the arete to the right. It was a really hard boulder problem. Even not heading straight up over the bolt, it was still 5.10 a or b.
Then, at the end, it was very awkward. Since I feel better and more secure in cracks, I jammed the left-leaning crack, which had to be 5.10a.
I agree that it's a relentless climb. It's long, and it's rarely a cakewalk.
By Bill 1552
From: Portland, OR
Aug 29, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|8/23/15, anchors are a bit tired. Can easily traverse to Jet Wind's anchor which is bomber.


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NewswireToday - /newswire/ -
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Presidential Unit Citation Purple Heart
Combat Action Korean Campaign United Nations Navy Occupation Nat'l Defense Korean War Medal American Defense
The purpose of this site is to make available some history about the Minesweeper, USS Pirate AM-275 during it's two tours of duty during WWII and Korea. Available are some characteristics of the Pirate, Specifications, where and when built, etc.
You will see Additional Photos onboard the Pirate and photos of the 2ndCommissioning at the Naval Shipyard ,Yokosuka Japan on August 14, 1950. Available is a Map of Koreaa showing the area where the Pirate went down, and actual Photos of the Pirate as it struck the mine and sank in approximately 4 minutes . You can view the roster of the Korean Tour as well as WWII Tour Also available are some addtional photos ofWWII crew members and Photos of This web designer Information is made available from News clippings ccollected by the sites designer and will include information from Government records, as well as information and photos received from other crewmembers.
You can read the Commanding Officers report of the incident. The Pirate was awarded the PRESIDENTIAL UNIT CITATION as well as other combat ribbons all displayed within this site. .
To all who visit this web site- I would appreciate having you sign my "GUESTBOOK" below
When you open the "GUESTBOOK", If you were a crewmember on board the Pirate in Wanson Harbor Korea, please give a bit of information on what you remember about the sinking incident
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The Biletnikoff Award preseason watch list was released Tuesday. The award goes to the best wide receiver in the nation and last season was won by Justin Blackmon of Oklahoma State.
The 10 semifinalists will be announced Nov. 12, and the three finalists will be named on Nov. 19. A winner will be named Dec. 6.
This year's list of candidates is a who's who among college pass catchers.
Keenan Allen of Cal, Emory Blake of Auburn, DeAndre Hopkins of Clemson, Robert Woods of USC and Ryan Swope of Texas A&M are just a few.


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Tokyo marked the 15th anniversary Saturday of the sarin nerve gas attack on its subway system by Aum Shinrikyo cult members, which left 13 dead and sickened some 6,300.
Some 20 station workers observed a moment of silence at Kasumigaseki Station in central Tokyo at 8 a.m., roughly the time the cult members planted and ruptured plastic bags containing sarin on rush-hour trains on March 20, 1995.
Numerous government officials, including Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama, victims and bereaved families visited the flower stands set up at five stations along the Hibiya, Marunouchi and Chiyoda lines, which were targeted in the attack. It is believed the attack was aimed at disrupting planned police raids on the group's headquarters at the time.
"It's been many years," said Shizue Takahashi, whose husband, Kazumasa, 50, was killed after removing a bag of sarin as a senior official at the station.
Takahashi, 63, said she feels that her efforts to get support for the victims over the years have finally paid off. A landmark law was enacted in 2008, providing up to ¥30 million to each Aum victim and bereaved families who were left without benefits for 13 years.
But she noted that while they have state benefits now, "it does not mean (the cult's) responsibility to compensate is gone."
After offering a silent prayer, Kasumigaseki Stationmaster Shinji Takanezawa, 55, reflected on his experience of gathering information on the disaster from the subway's head office at the time.
"I was receiving all this information about the situation, and when I thought about my fellow employees working at the scene, it made me shiver," he said. Takahashi's husband and another station worker were among those killed in the attack.
Wataru Kitamura, chairman of an information security consultant firm in Tokyo, was among the victims who offered flowers at one of the stands.
Kitamura, 75, was exposed to sarin after connecting from the Chiyoda Line to the Hibiya Line on his way to work, and stayed in the targeted train for about 40 minutes without realizing what had happened.
He said he suffered various physical ailments. "I know I cannot recover physically, but I try to stay firm mentally," he said.
Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism Minister Seiji Maehara spoke to reporters after placing flowers at Kasumigaseki Station, which is located in the heart of the government district.
"As a person in charge of the ministry, I promised (the victims) to do my best to ensure transportation security, including taking antiterrorism measures," Maehara said.
As well as the attack on the Tokyo subway system, Aum Shinrikyo was involved in a series of crimes, including another sarin release in 1994 in Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, for which death sentences have been finalized for its founder, Shoko Asahara, 55, and nine other cult members.
Meanwhile, three other members — Katsuya Takahashi, 51, Naoko Kikuchi, 38, and Makoto Hirata, 44 — still remain at large, prompting the police to post cash rewards totaling ¥6 million for information leading to their arrests.
The group, which had more than 10,000 members at its height, has renamed itself Aleph and has some 1,300 members today, while the Circle of Rainbow Light, a breakaway faction founded in 2007, has about 200 members, according to the Public Security Intelligence Agency.
Hiroshi Araki, 41, head of public relations for Aleph, visited Kasumigaseki Station shortly after noon.
"As a group inheriting the religious community, we would like to do as much as possible for the victims and bereaved families," said Araki, while admitting the group has not reached agreement with a victims' foundation over paying the remainder of the compensation.
A representative of the Circle of Rainbow Light also showed up at the flower stand soon after train services began.
Although the size of the groups has not changed much over the last decade, police continue to monitor their moves as they are now actively recruiting younger members, who may not know about or remember Aum's crimes.
Aleph gained 100 new members last year, according to the agency.
Timeline of events related to subway gas attack
February 1984 — Shoko Asahara forms Aum Shinsen no Kai, predecessor of Aum Shinrikyo.
Nov. 4, 1989 — Lawyer Tsutsumi Sakamoto, his 29-year-old wife Satoko and 1-year-old son Tatsuhiko are killed at their home in Yokohama.
June 27, 1994 — Aum members release sarin nerve gas in Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, killing seven, and seriously injuring four others.
March 20, 1995 — Aum members attack the Tokyo subway system with sarin gas. Thirteen people eventually are killed, while some 6,300 are injured.
March 22 — Police launch massive raids on Aum's headquarters in Yamanashi Prefecture and other Aum offices.
March 30 — National Police Agency chief Takaji Kunimatsu is shot and seriously injured.
May 16 — Asahara is arrested.
April 24, 1996 — Trial of Asahara begins.
Feb. 27, 2004 — Tokyo District Court sentences Asahara to death. Defense counsel appeals. March 27, 2006 — Tokyo High Court rejects appeal.
Sept. 15 — Asahara's death sentence finalized.
June 11, 2008 — Law on benefits for Aum crime victims, bereaved families enacted.
March 20, 2010 — 15th anniversary of subway sarin gassing marked.


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Why Does The Sports Media Bury Positive Stories Regarding MMA?July 3, 2009
For all the strides MMA has made in reaching out to a broader fan base, it is doing so fighting mainstream media every step of the way. The national media was quick to jump on the story of Quentin "Rampage" Jackson going crazy in a huge truck. It was all over the story of Justin Eilers getting shot and killed as well as the murder/suicide of Justin Levens. But, when UFC heavyweight fighter, Antoni Hardonk saved a man from being robbed by three men at knife-point, the story was nowhere to be found.
In the media driven society we live in, I am appalled and disappointed that this story was not reported by any major media outlet. I would not expect this to be the lead story, but if Sportscenter has time to devote an 8 minute segment to competitive eating (as they did today), then they certainly can find time to acknowledge an athlete for doing something truly heroic.
All we hear as sports fans are the terrible things athletes do. As much as the media is willing to villify celebrities for anything possible, it is irresponsible to ignore a story such as this. Antoni Hardonk was in the safety of a vehicle after being accosted by three young men, saw another man being attacked by these same men, and he acted. He was able to get the situation under control and disarm the assailants.
He is a hero. He risked his life to help a man he had never met before. Why? Hardonk was quoted as saying "I believe if you can do something to help someone else, you should. We're all here and we should all try to help each other if we can. It's the right thing to do. I just did what I thought was right." If parents want an athlete their children can look up to, here he is. The problem is no one will know about it, because it is not important enough for mainstream sports media to mention it.
This is not the first time the mainstream media has buried the stories of MMA fighters performing heroic acts. In October 2008, UFC middleweight fighter Goran Reljic heard a car crash into the Adriatic Sea near his home in Croatia. He awoke from a dead sleep and while still in his boxer shorts, Reljic dove into the freezing waters, broke out the windshield of the car, and pulled both men to safety.
In 2006, Strikeforce middleweight Benji Radach was eating at a restaurant in Vancouver, WA when a robbery took place. An armed assailant was trying to rob the cash register when Radach intervened, putting the gunman in a wristlock to disarm him, and breaking his jaw with a punch from his right hand.
I do not know why the media feels the need to bury feel good stories such as these. It does not make sense to me. The media expects athletes to be role models for kids (and is highly critical of them when they are not), but when someone lives up to those standards, the story is not told. ESPN has enough space on their front page to reference the DUI citation of WNBA player Diana Taurasi but they cannot acknowledge true heroism?
Antoni Hardonk, Goran Reljic, and Benji Radach. Remember their names. You probably won't hear them anywhere else. Shame on ESPN and every other media outlet that ignored this story and others like it.


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longer for northern teams to come into their own due to practice limitations and so many early games on the road. By the time they get into their groove they have accumulated too many losses to overcome the early season and they play similar school which result in initial lower rpis which carry forward throughout the season. It is not fair but it would be difficult to change w/o going to split fall/spring seasons with later starting springs or playing summer ball. We have two elite starters and several serviceable ones and an elite reliever and a few serviceable ones. Our hitting is average to slightly above average.
This season appears to be the opposite of your example.
ND beat warm weather schools on the road early in the season.
They returned home to play other Northern teams and have struggled.
I agree with your assessment of ND's talent level.
still concentrated in a couple of guys in the middle of the lineup. If we can get more consistent production from a couple more guys that will go a long way to better success. Even with mid-week pitching I thought our offense would carry us better against other teams mid-week starters. As I recall that early season stretch we had some big hits from guys other than those in the middle. A consistent DeSico would go a long way. He seems to be hitting better. Although we've turned a lot of DPs, we've also grounded into a lot of them at seemingly very important times.
Our pitching has been the biggest thing to have tailed off from earlier this season. Looks like Fitzgerald is settling into bullpen but our starters aren't as dominant. Control is probably the biggest problem lately and that can make even average opponents look better. Connaughton and Norton have to take charge and keep games close. We still seems to be adept at winning close games so that's reason for hope.
I haven't heard much about the awful baserunning gaffes we've had but I do recall a situation last weekend where we had a runner thrown out stealing 3rd with 2 out and Bull at the plate. There's a difference between aggressive baserunning and bad baserunning and we are just not dominant enough to make base running mistakes.
This weekend should be a good litmus test as it's on the road against a Pitt team that is just outside top 25.


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Envy is a weird thing.
Somedays I find myself completely at peace with where I am. Content with my living situation. Content with my family life. Content with my job status and not feeling overwhelmed with a need for possessions. Content with the direction my blog has taken and how that affects my daily life.
And then other days, I find myself listening to the lies of the enemy.
I see other successful, beautiful daughters of the Lord with different talents than mine. They're being asked to do bigger things than I am. Their opportunities are more important and get more recognition and so they must just be "better" than I am.
They could be asked to serve in a specific way at church or be honored with a prestigious award. Maybe they never falter or get nervous and are always asked to speak at events and minister to a crowd. Or they get picked to partner with an amazing brand or they get picked to go on TV because their blog post went viral.
And the enemy lies to me and tells me that her purpose is more important than my purpose.
(Yes, I'm still soaking up every life-giving word in A Beautiful Purpose by Susie Larson. And I'm loving it.)
So when I get fed those lies, I question myself. What could I be doing differently? What should I change about what I'm doing? And then the enemy occasionally sends me to an ugly place and jealousy takes over. I don't just beat myself up, but I start to critique the person who has been blessed with these gifts that I wish were mine.
"What has she done that's any different than what I've done?"
In A Beautiful Purpose, I came across this one little line that said that when Susie Larson started to feel that way, she heard God say to her, "Can you honor the Me in her?"
(p. 43, A Beautiful Purpose)
And wow, y'all.
These women are my sisters in Christ. God loves them just like He loves me. And my talents and gifts may not be the same or as recognizable or as public as someone else's, but they are important. They are there. I was blessed with talents and gifts and I just use them differently than the woman with all the recognition. And God is opening doors every single day for us to use the gifts He has given us.
It's not her fault. She loves the Lord just like I do.
And when I can take a step back and remember that the things I do, the talents I use, and the gifts I share should be used for His glory, I can stop thinking about myself and start being happy for her.
I can use my talents to the best of my ability, glorify God through my talents, and stop wishing for her talents!
Then I can support her, and pray for her, and honor the Him in her.
(*If any of this is also on your heart, I strongly encourage you to read A Beautiful Purpose by Susie Larson.)