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Lervia KH 4000 Automatic Free-ARM Sewing Machine Manual
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User reviews and opinions
|3:16am on Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010
|We use this machine to generate business documents and labels in color. Still figuring out its capabilities. Good, so far. Durable Construction,Easy Setup,Easy To Use,Fast Print Time,Sharp tones & colors
|11:02am on Wednesday, October 20th, 2010
|Overall robustness and reliability is definitely a strong poit. Ordering process was a breeze. Solid and reliable. Print quality is excellent. Overall robustness and reliability is definitely a strong poit. Ordering process was a breeze. Solid and reliable. Print quality is excellent. I would buy another MFC-9440, when we open more stores. I run a pack & ship store. I use MFC for faxing.
|8:44am on Monday, October 11th, 2010
|Adequate copier. Per page cost of printing is much more than claimed by Brother. Easy to buy at Costco, good $ for all in one Noisy, Expensive Toner, No Value, HUGE and UGLY, toner pollution is high.
|8:24am on Monday, September 13th, 2010
|wireless works beautifully. no reception problems or dropped connections with standard d-link wireless router. Accurate Colors","Efficient","Fast This relatively low-cost laser all-in-one replaces a series of tragically premature HP inkjet failures.
|8:25am on Friday, August 20th, 2010
|LET THE BUYER beware- because the drum is a ... LET THE BUYER beware- because the drum is a consumable.
|4:39am on Tuesday, August 17th, 2010
|Good machine if you copy 10 sheets a month. Bad if you copy more than 1000 sheets a month. Ok for home not any office.
|4:48am on Sunday, August 15th, 2010
|Fast printing, good print quality. Fax problems, customer service. Good quality b/w text ELECTRICAL drain, SLOW, LOUD
|7:06am on Saturday, May 22nd, 2010
|Brother MFC - 9440CN Printer I previously owned a B/W Brother multi-function printer and thought it was a wonderful piece of technology.
|2:50am on Thursday, May 6th, 2010
|I am happy with the MFC. Bought over a month ago. So far so good. [...]. It is quite big but it is a Laser all in one.
|12:05am on Wednesday, March 24th, 2010
|Had to call a Service man out to show me how to print both sides, no instruction listed in the book. Easy Setup,Easy To Use,Fast Print Time.
Comments posted on www.ps2netdrivers.net are solely the views and opinions of the people posting them and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of us.
10:59 Uhr
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ID Nr.: KH4000-05/05-V4 Komperna GmbH Burgstrasse 21 D-44867 Bochum www.kompernass.com
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KH4000 Automatic Free-Arm Sewing Machine Operating instructions
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y q w e r t
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Lervia KH 4000
Lervia Automatic Free-Arm Sewing Machine
1. Intended Use 2. Technical data 3. Package contents 4. Operating elements 5. Safety instructions 6. Setting up 7. Switching On / Off 8. Threading
a) b) c) d) e) a) b) c) a) b) c) d) e) Threading the lower bobbin Threading the lower thread Threading the upper thread Retrieving the lower thread Threading with 2 needles Changing needles Changing the stitch plate Changing the snap-on foot Setting Setting Setting Setting Setting the the the the the upper thread tension lower thread tension presser foot pressure stitch width stitch length
11. Sewing
a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) i) j) k) l) m) n) o) p) q) r) s) t) u) v) w) a) b) c) d) e) f) To place the material To start a seam To finish off a seam Guiding the material Changing the sewing direction Selecting a stitch pattern Straight stitch Zigzag Stitch pattern table Blind hem Material-Thread-Needle Table Seam guide Overcast stitch Stretch seams Sewing buttonholes Buttonhole table Sewing on buttons "Edge-to-edge" sewing Decorative stitches Sewing a zipper Sewing with the twin needle Embroidery Thread cutter Clean the gripper area Clean the feeder Clean the casing Oil the gripper track What else needs oiling? Storing
9. Attaching accessories
10. Settings
12. Care
13. Troubleshooting 14. Warranty and service 15. Disposal
Keep this manual for future reference and pass it on with the equipment to any future users.
Operating instructions Lervia Automatic Free-Arm Sewing Machine 1. Intended Use
The sewing machine is intended. - for use as a movable machine, - for sewing of typical household textiles and. - only for private household use. The sewing machine is not intended. - to be installed at a fixed location, - for processing of other materials (e.g. leather or other heavy materials such as tent or sail fabrics) - for commercial or industrial use.
3. Package contents 1 sewing machine
(see front fold-out page)
2. Technical data
Power supply Motor output Bulb power Bulb voltage Bulb thread Protection class Foot switch Sound pressure level : 230 V / ~50 Hz : 70 W : 15 W : 230 V / ~50 Hz : E14 thread : II : LISHUI FOUNDER, type KD-2902 : 76dB(A) MAX
1 blind hem foot 1 seam guide 1 zipper foot 1 buttonhole foot 1 button foot 1 sewing foot holder (attached) 1 finger protector (attached) 1 zigzag foot (attached) 1 knife 1 oil tube 1 set of needles (incl. twin needle) 3 screwdrivers 2 felt wheels 1 darning plate 3 bobbins 1 foot switch Operating instructions Warranty booklet
4. Operating elements
(see rear fold-out page)
q Front cover w Selector wheel (contact pressure sewing foot) e Threading hook r Selector wheel (upper thread tension) t Upper thread guide y Selector wheel (stitch width) u Carrying handle i Thread spool carrier o Winder spindle a Spool stop 1! Handwheel 1@ Selector wheel (stitch length) 1# ON / OFF switch 1$ Foot switch connection 1% Stitch pattern selector 1^ Foot lever 1& Adjusting foot 1* Bobbin case 1( Foot holder 2) Needle retainer 2! Stitch plate 2@ Box compartment 2# Lever (reverse operation) 2$ Tension spring 2% Lamp
5. Safety instructions
Like any other electrical device, a sewing machine can cause serious, even life-threatening injuries. To avoid this, and in order to work safely: Before initial use of your sewing machine, read these operating instructions thoroughly. Keep the operating instructions in a suitable place near the machine. When passing the appliance on to others, always enclose the operating instructions. Always disconnect the power supply when leaving the machine unattended. This will prevent the risk of accidents if the machine is switched on accidentally. First pull the power plug before changing the bulb or performing maintenance work on the machine. This will prevent possibly life-threatening electric shocks. Do not remove the plug from the socket by pulling on the cable. Always grip the plug and not the cable when pulling out the power plug. Only use the sewing machine in dry rooms. In case of any visible damage on the machine, the foot switch or the power cable: Have the damage repaired by Customer Service before using the sewing machine again. Never let children or elderly persons handle the machine unsupervised because they may not properly appreciate the possible dangers. Keep electrical appliances outside the reach of children.
Never use the machine when the ventilation apertures are blocked. Keep the ventilation apertures of the machine and the foot switch free from fluff, dust and waste material. The sound pressure level under normal operating conditions is 76dB(A) MAX. Please use LISHUI FOUNDER foot switch, type KD-2902 for the sewing machine.
against injuries and material damages: According to legislation, you as the user of an electrical appliance are responsible for preventing possible accidents through safetyconscious behaviour: Keep your work space tidy. An untidy workplace can lead to accidents. Provide adequate lighting when working! Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery, as these can be caught in the moving parts. You should also wear a hair net if you have long hair. Avoid abnormal posture. Remain steady and in a well-balanced position at all times. Be alert! Pay attention to what you are doing. Always take a rational approach to your work. Never work with the sewing machine if you are unable to concentrate or if you are feeling unwell! If accidents occur as a result of handling the machine with insufficient care, or failure to follow the safety instructions in this manual, then the manufacturer cannot accept liability.
6. Setting up
Place the sewing machine on a stabile table. Plug the foot switch into the connection socket g of the machine and.
insert the plug into the wall socket. If the worktop is not completely even, you can compensate for slight unevenness as follows: Pull the box compartment 2@ off to the side, it is only slid on, not firmly attached.
You can turn the adjusting foot 1& that becomes visible underneath in order to make the sewing machine rest properly. You can simply slide the box compartment 2@ back on for instance if you need this as an "extension table" for sewing large material. You can also leave the box compartment 2@ off, for example for free-arm sewing of arms, trouser legs, etc. The box compartment 2@ is also used to store the accessories.
7. Switching On / Off
You should familiarize yourself with these methods of switching on and off, so that you can take the correct action in the event of an emergency:
You can switch the sewing machine on or off by pressing the switch 1#. The bulb 2% indicates the operating state. If you pull out the foot switch plug, the machine is without power. If you pull the power plug from the socket, the machine and the foot switch are without power.
8. Threading
Make sure that the sewing mahine is switched off and the plug has been pulled out of the socket when threading in order to avoid injury if the sewing machine should be accidentally switched on. a) Threading the lower bobbin To load the lower bobbin with thread: Pull out one of the two thread spool carriers i on top and place a spool of thread there. You can place a felt pad underneath the spool of thread , so that the bobbin runs evenly. Place an empty spool on the winder spindle o.
Pull the thread through the upper thread guide t. Wind the loose end of the thread clockwise a few times around the empty spool. When the first windings of thread are taut against the spool, press the spool with the winder spindle o against the spool stop a. Pull the handwheel s on the right of the machine slightly outward in order to disconnect the sewing mechanism from the motor. Now switch the sewing machine on and step on the foot switch. Once the spool is full, cut the thread. Press the winder spindle o back to the left and remove the full spool. Do not forget to push the handwheel s back in otherwise the sewing mechanism remains disconnected from the motor.
b) Threading the lower thread Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle.
Pull the box compartment 2@ off to the side, it is only slid on, not firmly attached. Then open the gripper flap situated behind it.
Fold out the folding lever case l.
of the bobbin
and pull out the bobbin case l as shown.
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Unwind approximately 10 cm of thread from the spool and slide this into the bobbin case l so that the spool unwinds anti-clockwise.
Pull the unwound end of the thread through the gap 18b in the side wall of the bobbin case. under the tension spring 18c ,
until the thread comes out the slit the bobbin case.
For optimal setting of the lower thread tension, see Chapter 10.
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Put the bobbin case l back on the pin and.
turn the bobbin case l until the driver catches in the notch.
Lay the excess thread such that it does not bind anywhere. then close the gripper flap.
You can simply slide the box compartment 2@ back on for instance if you need this as an "extension table" for sewing large material. You can also leave the box compartment off, for example for free-arm sewing of arms, trouser legs, etc.
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19a 19b
c) Threading the upper thread To pass in the upper thread, it is not necessary to open the front of the sewing machine. The illustration is for guidance only. Before you begin threading, turn the handwheel s anti-clockwise to position the threading hook e in the uppermost position. Use the foot lever j to raise the needle retainer ;. Pull out one of the two thread spool carriers i on top and place a spool of thread there. You can place a felt pad underneath the spool of thread, so that the bobbin runs evenly. Guide the thread through the upper thread guide t,. over the selector wheel for the upper thread tension r,. underneath the tension 2$ spring,. over the threading hook e, through the thread guide 19a , from the front through the eye of the needle 19b and finally under the needle retainer ; towards the back. Lower the needle retainer ; with the foot lever j.
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d) Retrieving the lower thread Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle. Use the foot lever j to raise the needle retainer ;. With the left hand, firmly hold the end of the upper thread that comes through the eye of the needle. Then use your right hand to turn the handwheel s one full turn anti-clockwise. The upper thread now pulls up the lower thread in a loop. As soon as the lower thread appears, pull carefully on the upper thread held in your left hand. In this way, you can pull the lower thread clear. Pull out the two threads by about 10 cm. and lay these away to the back, as shown. The sewing machine is now ready to use.
e) Threading with 2 needles When you have inserted the twin needle as described in Chapter 9: Pull out both thread spool carriers i on top and place two spools of thread there. You can place a felt pad underneath the spool of thread, so that the bobbin runs evenly. Run both upper threads exactly as they would be run for threading a single thread,. except for threading at the needle: in this case, thread the two ends of the upper threads separately through the two needle eyes. The lower thread is then threaded in exactly the same way and lifted upward, as for a single thread.
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Make sure that the sewing machine is switched off and the plug has been pulled out of the sokket to prevent accidents caused by un-intentional switching on. a) Changing needles Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle. Loosen the clamping screw old needle out.
and pull the
Insert the new needle, with the flat side toward the back. Insert it up to the top and tighten the clamping screw well when finished.
b) Changing the stitch plate
At the factory, the "zigzag" stitch plate is inserted, which can be used for most stitching work and decorative seams. However, if you wish to use the darning plate supplied: Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle. Insert the darning plate into the existing zigzag stitch plate so that the flat guide pins grip into the recesses in the existing plate. If you no longer need the darning plate, simply remove this again.
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c) Changing the snap-on foot With the sewing machine you are provided with four snap-on-feet, which you can simply use as required: blind hem foot zipper foot buttonhole foot button foot
To change the snap-on foot: Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle. Position the foot lever j in the upward position in order to lift the needle retainer ; up. Press the lever 19d upward. The snap-on foot can now be easily removed from the needle retainer ;. Now place the new snap-on foot under the needle retainer ;. Make certain that the notch on the needle retainer is located directly above the metal pin of the snap-on foot. Press the foot lever j back down and let the needle retainer ; slide into the snap-on foot.
To uninstall the needle retainer ;: Loosen the foot screw 19c and pull the needle retainer ; off downward, including the finger protector. To install the needle retainer ; : Place the needle retainer ; including finger protector back onto the guide rod and tighten the foot screw 19c again.
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The tension of the upper and lower thread is set correctly if the twining of the two threads cannot be seen on the top or bottom sides of the material after sewing. If even one of the two tensions is not set correctly, an unclean seam will result. The stitches will then lie flat on the material.
a) Setting the upper thread tension You can select the strength of the upper thread tension by turning the selector wheel for the upper thread tension r. If this thread is. - too tight (higher setting), then the upper thread is loose and the material is being 'sewed' with the lower thread only. - too loose (lower setting), then the lower thread is loose and the material is being 'sewed' with the upper thread only. The upper thread tension is normally between 4-6.
b) Setting the lower thread tension You can set the strength of the lower thread tension by turning the screw 18f on the bobbin case l. Turn it.
- clockwise to increase the tension. - anti-clockwise to reduce the tension. Be certain not to turn the screw 18f completely out of the bobbin case l. The lower thread tension is set correctly if the bobbin case l can be turned slowly and evenly ("fall down test").
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c) Setting the presser foot pressure
Here you can set the pressure with which the material is pressed onto the stitch plate. Now set the contact pressure on the selector wheel w. "0" if no pressure is to be applied, for example for darning with free-hand stitches "1" for light fabrics (curtains) "2" for average fabrics (normal) "3" for heavy fabrics (jeans).
d) Setting the stitch width Here you can set the width of seam for zigzag patterns. Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle.
Select a stitch width from 0 - 5 on the selector wheel y. "0" straight "1" narrow "5" wide Important: When the twin needle is inserted, the selector wheel may not be set any higher than "3". A higher setting will cause the twin needle to break!
e) Setting the stitch length Here you can set how far the material is to be transported during sewing. This therefore determines the gap (length) between the stitch points. Select the stitch length from 0 - 4 on the selector wheel d. "0" if the material should not be transported. "1" short "4" long
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If you have placed the thread and everything is set correctly, as described in the previous chapters: a) To place the material
Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle. Use the foot lever j to raise the needle retainer ;. Place the material under the sewing foot and lower the sewing foot back down.
b) To start a seam Hold the two thread ends run to the back firmly with the left hand.
Step very carefully on the foot switch just enough to do the first 3-4 sewing motions. While doing this, guide the material with the right hand. Once the first sewing motions have been performed successfully, hold the lever for backward operation 2# pressed briefly. and press again on the foot switch just until you have returned to the starting point of the seam. When you now want to continue with the seam from that point, it is held firmly by several overstitches.
c) To finish off a seam Sew back and forth at the end of the seam using the reverse lever, as at the start of the seam. The end of the seam is now also held firmly.
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d) Guiding the material Only guide normal materials as shown in the diagram. Avoid pulling it, as this can cause the needle to bend or break. Very fine materials pull inward slightly during sewing. To prevent this, lay a thin paper under the material and sew this in with the material. When you have finished sewing, carefully pull the paper away from the material; the result is a very clean stitch.
For stretchable materials, it can be necessary to guide the material in before and after the sewing foot to prevent it from pulling in.
e) Changing the sewing direction You have arrived at a certain point, and you now want to continue sewing in a different direction. The simplest way to do this is to hold the turning point and let the needle stick in the material. Use the foot lever j to raise the needle holder ;. Pull the material around the needle in the desired direction then lower the needle retainer ; down. You can now continue sewing in the usual way in the new direction.
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f) Selecting a stitch pattern
To select a particular pattern, take the following steps: Select the stitch pattern with the stitch pattern selector h. Select the stitch length by means of the d selector wheel.
Select the stitch width by means of the selector wheel y.
Attach the respective snap-on foot, as described in Chapter 9. You can find the required settings in the table on the next page. If two values are set for the stitch length, these are understood as "from. to." values. g) Straight stitch This is the most frequently used type of stitch. The zigzag sewing foot is used for both straight and zigzag stitches. A smaller size of stitch should be selected for sewing finer materials.
h) Zigzag The zigzag stitch is universal. The zigzag stitch pattern consists of short stitches set closely after one another and is suitable for sewing initials, figures, appliqus etc.
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i) Stitch pattern table Stitch pattern Stitch length Sewing foot Stitch width
Straight stitch
Blind stitch
Blind hem
Three-step zigzag stitch
Slant over edge stitch
Single overlock stitch
Honeycomb stitch
3-fold zigzag
Stretch straight stitch
Shell stitch
3-edged block stitch
Semi-circular stitch
Free-hand embroidery
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j) Blind hem Fold the material as shown. Make the fold as wide as you want the finished seam to be: The lower fold should be inset by about 5 mm.
Use the blind hem foot. While sewing, check the hem width and needle position to be sure the hem is even.
Sew the blind hem on the underside of the material, so that only the peak of the zigzag stitch pierces the top part of the material. When you have finished sewing, push the left of the material over to the right and smooth out. The seam is almost invisible! The table on the next page shows a suggestion for setting the various values depending on the material used.
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k) Material-Thread-Needle Table Please refer to the details for the various materials.
Presser foot pressure See p. 16
Stitch length Straight stitch ZZ
Upper thread tension
Stitch length selection
Nylon Cotton jersey Silk
Cotton 80 Man-made fibre 60 Silk 50 Man-made fibre 50 silk Cotton 60-80 Man-made fibre 60 Silk 50 Cotton 50 Man-made fibre 50 Silk (12) 80-90 (12-14) (12) 0.5-3 0.5-(10) 1 1-3 1-4
Fine Jersey
90-100 (14-16) 80-90 (12-14) 80-90 (12-14) 3 0.5-3 0.5-4
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l) Seam guide Use the seam guide for sewing longer hems or seams that should have an even distance to the edge of the material. Screw the seam guide into the threaded hole on the right of the stitch plate 2!. Set the desired seam width, then tighten the knurled screw. While sewing, the edge of the material must touch the seam guide. The seam guide can also be screwed in obliquely for sewing corners.
m) Overcast stitch Select the stitches (H, I, J) if you want to prevent the fraying of the cut edges.
H, I, J n) Stretch seams Select the stiches (M or L) for knitted, Jersey and other stretchable textiles. This type of seam can be stretched without the thread breaking. The stretch seam stitch produces a highly strain-resistant, straight seam.
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o) Sewing buttonholes Attach the buttonhole foot , as described in Chapter 9. Refer to the table for: - the required stitch length - the required stitch pattern - the required method for sewing. When finished, you can cut the buttonhole in the middle, as shown.
p) Buttonhole table Pattern selector (Stitch pattern) Sewing Method
Settings/stitch length 1. Set selector to "R" 2. Sew the left side 3. Raise needle 4. Set selector to "S" 5. Sew 5-6 stitches 6. Raise needle 7. Set selector to "T" 8. Sew the right side 9. Raise needle 10. Set selector to "S" 11. Sew 5--6 stitches 12. Raise needle
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q) Sewing on buttons Attach the button foot and. place the darning plate on the existing zigzag stitch plate, as described in Chapter 9.
Lay the button between the button foot and the material and lower the button foot down. Turn the handwheel s anti-clockwise. Check whether the needle passes cleanly through both button holes. Adjust the stitch width of the zigzag mode as necessary. If the sewing machine hits both button holes during hand operation, you can now sew 5-7 stitches with the machine by carefully pressing on the foot switch.
r) "Edge-to-edge" sewing To do this, select the three-stitch zigzag ("H") or the honeycomb stitch ("K") as the stitch pattern.
s) Decorative stitches Select the stitch patterns (N-Q) if you want to apply various decorative stitches to your textiles.
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t) Sewing a zipper Using the zipper foot you can sew along the right and left-hand edges of the zipper without damaging the zipper or the needle. The zipper foot is also useful for sewing edges or parallel seams. Attach the zipper foot , as described in Chapter 9. Then select the straight stitch (A) as stitch pattern.
Fold over approximately 2 cm of material and lay the zipper under the material fold such that the links just protrude. It might be helpful to stitch in the zipper first.
Then sew as closely as possible along the zipper links. - To sew the left side of the zipper, the foot must be placed to the left of the needle. - To sew the right side of the zipper, the foot must be placed to the right of the needle.
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u) Sewing with the twin needle Insert the twin needle with the flat side toward the back.
Thread the thread as for normal sewing. Both threads are threaded together through the guides up to the twin needle. Only there are the two upper threads threaded separately. Make certain that the setting for the stitch width is not greater than "3" otherwise, the needle will break off.
v) Embroidery
Important: When embroidering, the foot lever 1^ must be in the bottom position,
otherwise the upper thread tension is disabled. Take the needle retainer ; off and. place the darning plate on the existing zigzag stitch plate, as described in Chapter 9. Select an appropriate stitch pattern (A or B). The stitching is now performed free-hand. Move the material tensioned in the embroidery frame according to the embroidery pattern while controlling the speed of the needle movements with the foot switch.
w) Thread cutter When you have completed a seam, or if you wish to cut the threads for any other reason: Simply pull the thread over the sharp blade above the needle retainer ; to cut off the thread.
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After each use, remove any pieces of thread, material, and fluff. Only in this way will you ensure that the sewing machine continues to work correctly and lasts for a long time.
Make sure that the sewing machine is switched off and the plug has been pulled out of the socket to prevent accidents caused by unintentional switching on.
a) Clean the gripper area
Never disassemble the mechanical elements in the gripper area! Extensive experience with mechanical devices is required in order to reassemble these. Only Customer Service has the special equipment necessary for disassembling the gripper mechanisms. If you carry out repair work yourself, the warranty will automatically be voided. It should be enough for the user just to clean this area with a brush or vacuum cleaner. Turn the handwheel s in an anti-clockwise direction to fully raise the needle. Then open the gripper cover and take out the bobbin case l.
Now remove all dirt with a brush or vacuum cleaner (with fine brush attachment). b) Clean the feeder Remove the needle and Take the needle retainer ; off, as described in Chapter 9. Loosen the screws inserted in the stitch plate 2! and dismantle the stitch plate. Now remove the front cover q, if necessary, to better reach the screws. You can now clean the feeder.
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c) Clean the casing
Never open any parts of the machine casing other than those described in this manual. There are no operating elements inside. Otherwise there is a risk of injury and potentially life-threatening accidents. Clean all plastic surfaces with a soft, dry- cloth. Do not use cleansers or abrasive materials the casing could be scratched. The parts of the appliance may never be submerged in water or other liquids! This could damage the appliance. d) Oil the gripper track
Apply the oil very sparingly. Excessive oil on the working parts can soil the thread and your fabrics. Drip 2-3 drops of oil into the narrow gap between the gripper and the gripper track. and turn the handwheel s a few times to rotate the gripper completely. This will distribute the oil. Just a little oil applied in this way, once or twice per year, is sufficient. The main purpose is to prevent rust from forming if the machine is left unused for long periods. e) What else needs oiling? Nothing - no other working parts require lubrication. You should not lubricate anything unless it is necessary, as oiled parts attract dust and may then become stuck.
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f) Storing Keep the sewing machine. - at a dry location so that no rust forms on the metal mechanical parts, - always under the supplied covers to prevent dust from entering the sewing machine, - outside the reach of small children or elderly persons, so that they cannot endanger themselves through unsupervised operation.
13. Troubleshooting
If something is not working, you can use the table below to try and correct the fault. If you are unable to remedy the problem yourself, please contact the customer service department (see warranty card).
Fault / Problem:
Possible remedy:
Machine is not sewing - is only the handwheel turning? Material is not being moved through Stitch length wheel set to "0"? Is the contact pressure of the sewing foot too low? Needle set incorrectly? Needle is bent? Needle is breaking Do the needle + thread + material comply with the table in Chapter 10?
Press in the hadnwheel!
Set it at a value from "1 to "4". Increase the contact pressure of the sewing foot! Set flat end towards the rear! Insert a new needle. Select the right needle for the thread and the material!
Was it threaded correctly? Zigzag setting too wide? Upper thread tension too firm? Scoring / scratches on the gripper? Lower thread tension too taut? Needle set incorrectly? Lower thread is breaking Was it threaded correctly? Dust and fluff in the gripper? Too much tension? Contact pressure sewing foot too high? Do the needle + thread + material comply with the table in Chapter 10?
Upper thread is breaking
It's best to re-thread from the beginning! Try with a smaller width! Select the middle setting. Replace the gripper. Reduce the thread tension. Set flat end towards the rear! It's best to re-thread from the beginning! Clean the gripper area Reduce the tension! Reduce the contact pressure! Select the right needle for the thread and the material!
Ripples in the material
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The bulb no longer lights? If the bulb is burned out, replace it with an identical one purchsed from a specialised dealer. The designation is "15W - E14". Use the supplied screwdriver to loosen the screw on the front side of the front cover q. Take off the front cover q. Unscrew the defective bulb 2% and screw a new one into the socket.
14. Warranty and service
The warranty conditions and the service address can be found on the warranty slip.
15. Disposal
Do not dispose of the device in normal domestic waste. Dispose of the device over a registered waste disposal firm or through your communal waste disposal facility. Observe the currently valid regulations. In case of doubt, consult your waste disposal facility. Keep the sewing machine's transport packaging. It may be useful for storing the machine, but is particularly useful if you want to ship the sewing machine for repair. Most instances of damage occur when the machines are being transported.
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text: What is up with the French? Just coz they can't win at their own race they make up medical excuses to disqualify everyone else? Well at this rate, in January 2009 they will be able to declare a French winner to the 2006 Tour de France...Cyril Dessel, after they have disqualified 6 amazing riders.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Hugh Robjohns tries out Roland's updated digital monitors.
Roland's DS90 'reference monitor loudspeakers' have recently benefitted from an upgrade, the new version being christened the DS90A. Like its forebear, the new speaker is specifically intended to complement all those Roland V-series digital recorders and mixers which incorporate virtual speaker modelling facilities, although it may also be used as a monitor in its own right, of course.
The new DS90A is virtually identical to the older model, retaining the same Pioneer drive units in a simple bass-reflex design. The only obvious change is that the new version is 50mm deeper, measuring 372 x 229 x 381mm (hwd) -- increasing the internal volume by around 12 percent to just under 32 litres. However, the frequency response is almost the same as that of the previous model, with -3dB points at 48Hz and 20kHz, although there is greater LF headroom.
Above the 2.6kHz crossover frequency the response appears to be commendably flat apart from a 2dB lift between 10 and 15kHz. The mid-band exhibits a more irregular response but remains within the ±3dB specification limits. A gentle octave-wide suck-out between 250 and 500Hz is followed by a similarly sized peak centred around 900Hz and another 3dB suckout preceeding the crossover point. These anomalies create a character through the mid-band which tends to flatter.
The DS90A accepts both analogue and digital inputs, and its built-in 24-bit D-A converter is capable of synchronising to sample rates between 25 and 55kHz. The rear of the DS90A is identical to its antecedent, with a combi-jack socket allowing both balanced and unbalanced analogue input. A small slide swi
Well built.
Larger cabinet improves bass headroom.
Comprehensive analogue and digital interfacing.
Relatively expensive for this level of performance.
A minor update to Roland's well-equipped active loudspeakers. Providing both analogue and digital inputs, the DS90A complements the 'Speaker Modelling' provided on Roland's V-series digital consoles and recorders.
These loudspeakers are unusual in that each cabinet contains its own stereo D-A converter. Most digital input speakers -- the little Genelec 2029As, for example -- have a stereo D-A in one speaker and transfer one channel of the decoded analogue signal across to the second. The DS90A features a co-axial S/PDIF loop-through socket to forward the entire digital input signal across to the second speaker -- a slide switch on the rear panel chooses whether the left or right channel, or a mono sum, is passed to the amplifiers.
Three rotary controls on the rear panel set the volume and LF and HF shelf equalisation -- the last providing a ±3dB swing from 60Hz and 10kHz, respectively. The bass-mid signal is amplified by its own 60W power amplifier while the treble is amplified by a separate 30W unit.
Model Speakers
As with the original, the DS90A is easy to interface with a wide variety of equipment and delivers loud, punchy music. Its extended bass headroom is welcome but the flattering tonal character and slightly veiled midrange makes the DS90A more appropriate for general-purpose recording than true reference monitoring. Having said that, many potential users will undoubtedly appreciate the advantages of using this speaker in a monitoring role with the virtual modelling facilities of many of the V-series recorders and mixers.
I auditioned the DS90As in conjunction with a VS1680 hard disk recorder/mixer containing a VS8F2 Effects DSP card which provided the DSP power necessary to model a range of familiar loudspeakers.
For anyone not conversant with Roland's speaker modelling, there are currently 12 algorithms starting with a program which claims to linearise and enhance the frequency response of the DS90A. Six algorithms, model some of the most popular active 'reference' monitors including speakers from Genelec, Event, and Mackie. A collection of 'grot-boxes' replicate NS10s (with and without the tissue paper), Auratones, a generic tranny radio, typical TV speaker and various 'ghetto-blasters'. The system also provides polarity reversal, bass-cut filtering and powerful LF and HF equalisation facilities.
The DS90A's greater low-frequency headroom, allows higher monitoring levels when using speaker models with an extended bass response. Whilst this improvement is welcome, the speaker's real strength remains is its compatibility with the speaker modelling of the V-series digital consoles. The process of modelling loudspeakers can never be entirely faithful to the originals as there is currently no way of emulating the different polar responses of the monitors being modelled and their subsequent interaction with reflective room boundaries. However, when used in the nearfield, and in a reasonably neutral acoustic environment, Roland's approach provides a useful ball-park approximation of how a mix will translate to different loudspeaker systems.
The update brings with it a relatively small price increase and the speakers are also now available singly instead of in pairs, making it easier to acquire surround systems. However, the stereo D-A built into every speaker and the compatibility with Roland's virtual modelling make the pricing more attractive.
£990 per pair, £495 each.
Prices include VAT.
Roland UK Brochure Line
+44 (0)1792 515020.
+44 (0)1792 799644.
2.1 Monitor System
This interesting monitor system uses the natural roll-off of the satellite speakers to provide the crossover with the subwoofer.
Studio Nearfield Reference Monitors
Building to a price inevitably entails compromises. The art is in choosing the right ones...
Three-way Active Monitors
Sometimes, a dose of old-fashioned good engineering delivers something well worth listening to...
Active Two-way Studio Monitors
Their A7 nearfield monitors received many plaudits, not least in the pages of SOS, but manufacturer Adam thought there was room for improvement.
Active Nearfield Monitors
PMC broke new ground a decade ago with their TB2 monitors, but the competition have been catching up. Does PMCs new activated design nudge them back to the front of the pack?
Secondary Reference Monitors
Avantone have added on-board amplification to their contemporary take on the classic Horrortone secondary monitor, and the result is something quite special...
Two-way Nearfield Active Monitors
India may be a growing force in most industries these days, but few Indian pro-audio companies have made it into Western markets. Can Sonodynes speakers change all that?
Monitor Speakers
The time-domain response of monitors is often sacrificed for level, but this sealed-cabinet design tackles that issue head-on...
Nearfield Monitor Speakers
With digital and analogue inputs, these small speakers from newcomers Infrasonic promise a lot for the money. Can they outperform their budget price tag?
2.1 Monitoring System
If you demand brutal and revealing precision from your monitors, read on...
Active Three-way Monitors
As well as a distinctive design, these huge nearfield monitors offer a frequency and time-domain performance that compares with the best.
Studio Reference Monitors
Adam make the leap to a three-way speaker design that seems to pay dividends in clarity and separation.
Monitor Speakers
JBL have a reputation for clinically precise monitors, but this time theyve come up with something a little smoother...
Active Monitors
Coaxially-mounted speakers may seem a bit old-school, but theres nothing wrong with the theory — and a touch of DSP can make them very modern indeed!
DSP Reference Monitors
Built-in DSP extends the flexibility and usefulness of these capable speakers.
Studio Monitors
Events new owners make some extravagant claims for these new high-end monitors, whose design is said to put quality first. Do they live up to the hype?
Studio Monitors & Subwoofer
Samsons new low-cost nearfields can produce a big sound, but do they measure up for serious mixing? We find out.
Active Monitors
Ribbon tweeters can yield a smooth sound, while still capably reproducing transient detail — and the Pro Ribbon range promises to do so for an attractive price.
Active Nearfield Monitors
Focal control everything from design to manufacture in their factory in France — and this approach appears to be paying off.
Active Midfield Monitors
Getting the balance right between the benefits and disadvantages of ported and non-ported speaker designs is a tricky job, and K+H do it better than most with this ported model.


text:
How to Be a Popular Girl
Five Parts:Show Others Your CoolnessBeing ConfidentStaying Plugged InBecoming Part of the Popular GroupPaying Attention to the Little ThingsCommunity Q&A
Being popular is difficult to universally define because no one is ever popular with everyone. If you're a girl and wish to be popular, remember popularity is about more than just your clothes or how you do your hair or makeup, and being 'popular' shouldn't take over your life. It becomes an entire lifestyle different from the less popular girls. It involves getting others to talk about you, giving off a whiff of awesomeness, getting involved with everyone around you and getting all the other kids to know about you, but most importantly, being a role model that other girls admire. These girls are really exclusive and spoiled and so keep an eye out.
Part 1
Show Others Your Coolness
1Find your special something. This is the first step of everyone knowing you and giving you their attention. Maybe you have awesome style. Skin colors do not mean anything. Perhaps you're particularly witty. Think of the thing that you have a real talent at. Figure out what makes you amazing and unique. The only way to find out though, is if you enjoy being who you are. Just pretend popularity never existed, and don't pay any initial attention to the popular crowd (unless you're already an acquainted with them). Try and be friends with them without being in the crowd, you can slowly reel yourself in.
2Make positive first impressions. For first impressions, make sure people know how potentially amazing you are. Remember, you only get one chance to make a first impression, so make sure they remember you as someone really cool and comfortable in your own skin. Remember not to be overly pushy or shy. Keep a balance, even though most popular kids seem hyper, don't try to act really cool or they will see through it like glass. Once you get to know someone you want to be friends with, it's okay to get chatty, and ask for their phone numbers and such. Act confidently, know who you are, and don't forget: everyone needs to know you and discover how fabulous you are. Always be friendly! Do not be overly touchy, but be funny.
3Make eye contact. Don't look at the floor. Keep your head up high and people will think that you have "popular-potential". When someone is talking look them straight in the eye and really listen to them. This will show the great personality in you, and people won't be afraid of opening up to you. Also, keeping your head held high will make you seem like you have self-esteem and confidence... and you can never go wrong with that!
4Smile! When you smile everyone around you can guess that you're probably a confident and kind person. Brush your teeth at least twice a day, floss, and use mouthwash. If they aren't as straight as they could be, ask your orthodontist about braces or other appliances. Your smile is your trademark, besides your butt, this is what a lot of seventh-eighth grade boys look for.
5Make sure you have good hygiene hygiene. Many people will be turned off if you smell bad, so make sure you shower every day and wash your hair and body often, wash your face (there are many good brands of acne solutions, and masks also work well), and invest in deodorant and perfume, but make sure you do not overload in the perfume or people will be turned off. Some people also may have allergies or be allergic to perfumes. Try spraying perfume on your wrists, behind your ear and behind your knee.
6Pay attention to what the other people are saying. Don't concentrate on yourself so much that you don't catch the person's name. If they are popular, they are used to people remembering their name, if you don't they might be offended. Talk and compliment the person you are with or meeting. Smile as you do this. Don't try to compliment the popular people to get them to like you, and if you hate someone's hair, don't compliment it. If you see a quality that you like in someone, don't be afraid to speak up and compliment!
7Speak at an appropriate volume and clearly. If you mumble, it makes you seem very nervous and weak; popular girls are never nervous or weak. When it's your turn to speak, talk at an appropriate volume and with clarity, don't shout. Be gentle with your voice, but sound pleasant. Sound cool.
Part 2
Being Confident
1Be confident. Stop thinking you're ugly or that you aren't good enough. Be comfortable with that. Think of your qualities for a while. Just believe in yourself and let people know the real you. Act like you're on their level; but not better. Show them how cool and confident you are! Be sure to compliment others and have good posture, as well as hygiene. Take good care of yourself and be yourself!
2Make an effort to stay in style. This can help with getting you a reputation of a courageous, confident girl. Wear clothes that look right for your age (like don't wear "Dora the Explorer" if you're a tween/teen). Try wearing a little makeup, experiment with hairstyles and fashion trends. I would say: Don't be yourself be the dream you.This is true, because it makes it your best self. Take it one step at a time, because being confident and courageous are more of the essentials of becoming popular.
- At some schools, popular girls tend to wear crazy, trendy, or simple outfits. At other schools, popular girls wear stylish and pretty outfits. Just remember that all schools have different types of popular kids. At some schools, popular girls are more of the stereotypical cheerleader kind, while at others, popular girls are more on the crazy, tomboy-like, daring, "weirder" end.
3Sometimes, acting innocent helps. Let's face it, being popular will definitely make you lots of new friends, but it will also probably lead to a few jealous stares. If a so-called "friend" makes a nasty comment, laugh it off, pretend that it wasn't hurtful at all. Be bubbly. Others will see this and appreciate the fact that you can laugh at yourself. Act like you enjoyed the comment and treat it as if someone were telling you an actual joke. Don't spread gossip or isolate someone to get revenge on the incident. Just end the drama there, because if you don't it will make it easy for others to say that you're insecure.
4If you're bored with your hair, try something new with it. As with everything else, make sure your hair is well-groomed and taken care of as often as possible. Don't be afraid to add things from feathers to extensions, to side fringe/bangs for a fabulous finish.
Part 3
Staying Plugged In
1Get involved. Popular girls are usually well-rounded and comfortable in almost every sphere of the school. Join a sports team or club, make sure it is something you will enjoy doing. This will help you to meet many new people and establish yourself in the school. Be sure to do something you actually like, as people can tell when you're faking. No one likes someone who does a sport or club just to be popular. Try to do an after school activity every day if possible.
2Be outgoing. Before becoming popular, you need to show everyone that you are sociable and open. A way to show that you're outgoing is to be with your friends. Try to crack a joke, and if all of your friends start laughing everyone will see you're a funny person. Being shy won't win you any new friends. You're going to have to get out there and talk to people. You cannot be afraid to talk to others. Like people and show it! Be friendly and interested in people, and, many of them will like you back. You don't win popularity by hiding in the corner or expecting people to approach you. If you're shy, make friends with really outgoing people. They will encourage you to talk to other people, and soon it will be easier for you.
- Talk about things that other people are interested in. People can be very passionate when talking about their interests. Even if it's just walking from one class to another, find someone that has the same schedule as you do so that you can walk and talk. If you really feel like doing something that will benefit you, ask a friend to do it with you. This will make you and especially the other(s) feel better about themselves. A boost of confidence never hurts!
3Keep fit and healthy. Having a healthy body is not only super good for you, trying different sports is a great chance to meet new people. Try going to the gym with your friends. Most girls who are popular play sports such as soccer, softball, lacrosse, and cheer. However, contrary to what most kids believe, sports really don't make you any more or less popular (but it can help you with getting friends, which is different from popularity), unless it's a reason people talk about athletic kids being "cool".
4If you are not the sportiest person, go for clubs and committees. Check out what's new in your school's activity list. Volunteering is also a great way to get to know more people.
5Keep updated in your society at school. You shouldn't gossip, cause more drama or talk about who's-dating-who, and what someone did to someone else. This is mean, and will not make you popular. Social networking sites or just talking to your friends are some ways to find out what's going on at your school. Also, you should do well in school. If you don't, you can send to other people that you don't want to be at school.
6Join a social networking site. This will get you more noticed and help you know what's going on at your school. Use Facebook; it's a great way to get in touch (and stay in touch!) with people you know. Don't get involved in the gossip and drama. Try to get people to view your page, but don't stalk them. Some other sites you may want to join include:
- Tumblr
- Snapchat
- Skype
- Kik
Part 4
Becoming Part of the Popular Group
1Befriend popular girls. Take them shopping or have a slumber party. If the become you friend then you will have an army. NEVER gossip about them or they will be mad. It's fun to share secrets, like boyfriends/girlfriends, but never feel like you have to in order to be popular.
2Stay true to who your real friends are. Don't change too fast, or they might think you just wanted to ditch them. Gradually try to be more and more popular. Try to spend more time with your friends if you spend more time in the popular crowd; So, if you fail on being popular, apologize to your friends, and say it in a way that they will understand and so they will not try to get back at you. However, if your friends before were not right for you, find a whole new set of friends! Anyway, you don't have to hang with the cool crowd to be cool!
3Get to know the guys. Talk, make friends with and be a tiny bit flirty to the popular/friendly/kind guys and don't be afraid. This can prove for a fun conversation. It's okay to have a boyfriend/girlfriend, or no date mate at all. In the end, have almost as many popular/kind guy friends as popular/kind girl friends. Remember, to be truly part of the popular crowd, you have to be seen with all the popular girls.That can't really be accomplished if you don't have any guy friends.
Part 5
Paying Attention to the Little Things
1Listen more than you talk. Remember, you have two ears and one mouth for a reason. People will want to be around someone who makes them feel better about themselves, not someone who is clearly just planning the next thing they're going to say. So don't be chatterbox; you can't listen with your mouth open. Ask them questions, but not enough to sound like a stalker. People love a person who takes the time to find more about them.
2Be empathetic. Popular girls know when someone needs a smiling friend, a compliment, or a hug. It's okay to be shy, but if you want to be popular, you have to smile, start conversations, and relate to people at their own level. That means talk about what the other person is interested in. Don't get stuck in the idea that you are shy or withdrawing. Realize that you are constantly changing, and that you are developing your social skills to the point where you could relate to all people. You have the right to change and grow.
3Know what your body language is telling people. For instance, when you cross your arms your body language can give the impression, "Don't bug me." Another example is slouching - a sign that says, "I don't feel like I'm very important." Positive body language is all about how you feel about yourself and how you make others feel. The most popular people in school or at a party usually know how to make everyone else feel good by using plenty of positives gestures like nods, eye contact and, most important of all, a sparkling, warm smile.
Community Q&A
What if you are scared the girls will judge you or not like you and wonder what you're doing here?
- Look at how the girls treat each other, or how they treat other people who try to hang out with them. If they act mean, they're probably not pleasant people to be with, even to each other. Find a different group of friends instead.
How do you make friends halfway through the year?
- If everyone is hanging out in cliques, try to make friends with people sitting next to you in class, or pick a group that looks friendly. Think of a conversation topic you can all talk about, like something that happened at school.
What if you get bullied by the popular girls?
- Stay away from anyone who bullies you. Let an adult know it's happening (and keep talking to adults until one takes it seriously). By the way, popular bullies often bully each other just as much as the people around them. Trying to fit in with them is not worth it.
I just started hanging out with the "populars" about a week ago and I wanna go back to hanging out with my friends. How do I convince my friends to forgive me?
- Apologize and admit that you made a mistake. If they don't accept you back, try calling your closest friend. You might be able to hang out just with the two of you, and gradually earn your way back to the others.
How do you make sure you're not socially awkward? What's a good page that helps me gain social skills?
- We have an article on exactly that subject.
- Getting a new short haircut can boost your confidence.
- Involve yourself in activities with boys, too.
- Don't be catty. Starting drama and insulting other girls will not make you popular. In fact, it will only make you a point of gossip or even ridicule. Even if you genuinely dislike someone, try to hide it.
- If someone doesn't like you, get over it; not everyone will. Be nice to them, though, because they might come around and realize how great you really are.
- Adjusting yourself and changing yourself are two different things. Trying to be someone you're not won't win you friends; everyone will see through your act at some point. Try to build off of who you already are. Very different sorts of people can all become popular, so don't try to fit a mold.
- Seek out friendship with the nicest member of the popular crowd. Be friendly, not pushy, desperate, or needy. Usually they can help, but if you pull yourself into the group too fast, you'll be considered "stalking". Try to find two of the nicest girls and work on getting them to think you are cool. Once one of them thinks you are cool, then the others will catch on to that.
- Remember that it will take time to become popular. It could take a month or more. It won't just happen overnight. Just look at it as a social project you can work on.
- Hang out with them once a week to start out with, preferably at lunch or in school. Don't push it, and don't always ask, "When should we hang out?" Then, escalate it to two times a week. Try to make it so that they ask to hang out with you more often than you ask to hang out with them. Look busy; making your time more valuable will make it more desirable.
- Slowly get involved with activities that will keep you as busy as they are. Pulling all A's, becoming really good at certain sports or helping out with school projects are good attention-grabbers. Win some awards or start a new fundraiser for charity.
- Avoid staying home on weekends. Make sure you are out having fun with your friends (or go solo). The more people see you, the more they'll like you. Studies have shown that familiar faces are more appealing than unfamiliar ones. It's still okay just to have an easy weekend, but sitting in the corner every weekend won't make you cool.
- Be funny; people will want to hang out with you more. But not so funny that you seem like the class clown!
- Be the kind of girl who laughs at herself when she realizes she's made a silly mistake, make sure others are laughing too, though - it's not good to always stick out. And remember popular just means social but you go to school to learn, socializing comes second if you have any free time for it. Hang out with people that understand this, if you hang out with people who don't understand this they might do things such as talk in class and get you in trouble!
- Don't try to be popular just to get someone (like a crush). Stay true to your old/current friends even after you become popular. If you don't, if for some reason you aren't popular anymore, you will have no friends.
- Don't be too nosy, because people will get annoyed, just ask, "what?" once and if they say "It's private.", or, "It's nothing.", then go along with it.
- Try watching TV shows everyone else watches (Pretty Little Liars, Gossip Girl, 90210, One Tree Hill, Teen Wolf, Lying Game, etc.) so you will have something to talk about with the popular girls.
- Remember, those girls you think ignore you are people too; they might just not know you. Try to get to know them (take it slow), and show who you are inside. Popular kids are usually too busy (school, sports, and after school activities) to take an interest in absolutely everyone. They just don't have the time. So make a little bit extra effort, casually.
- Try to act sweet and smart. It's 'cute' to act dumb once in a while, but if you overdo it, people will think that you're flat out stupid.
- It helps to study those who are already popular. They already have the moves, the phrases, the looks and the in-knowledge that you're hoping to copy. Do this subtly though; you don't want them to notice you watching them so closely that it's creepy.
- Be nice to everyone, but if the popular crowd avoids someone, don't be too interested in them.
- There is a difference between being a nice, intelligent popular girl, and a gossiping, try-hard one.
- There is a massive difference between respect and fear. Fear will spread your name in a bad way. You'll lose friends and become disliked. Respect will make people adore you, and be happy to be around you - make sure to be kind. You are not popular if your throne is girls you stepped on to get there.
- If you can't join social network sites or your parents won't let you, create a Gmail account and that way you instantly will also have a plus google account where you can choose people you want to share those things with and that we you can post things safely.
- If you have made friends with other people who are popular, don't abandon your old friends! Get your old friends to come with your new friends so you can hang out with all your friends!
- If the popular girls are mean and snobbish then don't hangout with them! You don't want to get into that sort of thing. If you do you might find yourself gossiping, or worse, get into trouble for spreading the rumors!
- The golden rule: Do not be mean or snobby! In the movies, they show popular girls as being mean, snobby, and rich. In reality, nobody wants to hang out with mean snobs, and it's 100 percent possible to be popular without being rich or owning a single designer outfit. The popular girls are the nice girls who are well-liked and have lots of friends.
- Don't copy other girls. This will make you seem like a wannabe.
- Don't look like a cake face. Dab a little concealer on your blemishes. Don't wear it like a face mask because it will make you look fake.
- Don't get affected by strong criticisms especially if they are not true. And don't apply insecurities to yourself.
- Always remember that no matter what, God loves you for who you are.
- Don't say you can do something you can't because they might want you to show them.
- Don't forget about your family. Spend time with them too.
Article Info
Categories: Socialite Style | Middle School Popularity
In other languages:
Français: être une fille populaire, Italiano: Essere una Ragazza Popolare, Español: ser una chica popular, Português: Ser uma Garota Popular, Deutsch: Als Mädchen beliebt sein, Русский: быть популярной девочкой, Bahasa Indonesia: Menjadi Gadis Populer
Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 1,728,722 times.


text:
Fit & Fun
You can take advantage of very low tides this holiday weekend by getting a naturalist's view of a largely unseen world. What can you find? Anemones, moon snails, clams and another slimy surprise or two.
Volunteer naturalists will be wandering the beaches, teaching folks about the life-forms that make their home between the tides and about the challenges the animals face.
The events will be held at a number of area beaches, from Carkeek Park to Lincoln Park, from Des Moines Beach Park to Seahurst — just to name a few. No reservations are required.
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The naturalists will be available for about three hours starting at 10 a.m. Saturday; 10:30 a.m. on Sunday; and 11 a.m. on Monday. For more complete information, including directions, go to www.seattleaquarium.org/beach-naturalist
Fit & Fun is a weekly notice about active recreational opportunities in the Greater Seattle area. To suggest a future item, contact Richard Seven: firstname.lastname@example.com


text:
Winston Freer was the inventor of the Tile Puzzle offered on this site and was considered to be a complex man and a magical genius.
Winston Freer was born in St. Albans, Vermont on August 21, 1910. He died on April 29th, 1981 in a VA Hospital located in Bath, New York. He had been a "guest" for over 20 years of his life in the VA Hospital. He was 70 years old when he died.
How did he get interested in magic?
Don Howard is credited with helping foster the love of magic in Winston. Winston and Don remained friends all during Winston's life. Don lived his life out in St. Albans, Vermont where Winston was born and raised. But on January 5th, 2004 at the age of 95, Don passed away peacefully in his sleep. Another lover of magic has passed on to the great supreme mystery. Let us pay due respect. Don had passed many bits of information along to his long time pal Pat Sullivan. One of the bits of note is that Winston got a set of Tarbell magic books for his High School graduation gift.
On another note, in 1926 at the age of 16 Winston saw Howard Thurston perform and that undoubtedly influenced him. Winston went on to attend college at the University of Vermont from 1928 to 1932. After his college education he moved to the midwest and became a full time magician.
In the 30's he worked for Percy Abbott at Abbott's Magic in Colon, Michigan. Winston was a full time magician first using the name Alladin and later using the name Doc Maxam. Winston appeared throughout the Midwest and was hired by many corporations such as International Harvestor to entertain their executives.
In 1939 Percy Abbott described Winston's suspension illusion in the "Tops" magazine. (Published by Percy.) It caused quite a controversy since the claim was that a person from the audience could be used during the suspension and they would be none the wiser for the experience.
There is a famous story of Annemann implying that the photo of Freer doing the suspension while standing on a table with spectators sitting around the table was a fake photo. Freer's "spectator suspension" had many supporters who swore the photo was not a fake. They were present more than once when Winston performed this amazing feat. Don Howard was one of them. Don Howard claimed shortly before his death that it was a fact that the person Freer suspended was a genuine spectator from the audience, not a plant. It is conceivable that Winston could indeed perform this feat at certain locations.
The August, 1941 issue of the "Linking Ring" had an article on Winston Freer. The article was titled, "The most talked about man in magic." Don Howard is in the same picture as Winston in the article.
A unique linking ring routine.
A unique Chinese sticks routine.
A unique ball and vase routine.
A unique knife through arm routine.
A unique rice bowls routine.
A unique "freezing water in the hand" routine.
A unique egg bag routine.
A unique "growing tree" routine.
A spectator suspension!
A two dimensional version of the Tile Puzzle.
And of course, the present day 3 dimension Tile Puzzle.
Did Winston Freer write any magic material?
In 1939, he wrote a booklet titled the Alagen Rope. Winston also wrote a booklet titled, "25 Rice Bowl Methods". In 1954 he wrote and compiled "The Magic of Doc Maxam". If you are aware of any more, please let this writer know!
Winston served his country!
Winston was a veteran of WW II. He was in the Navy. He served as a weatherman, and he served his entire time on U.S. soil. But that does not detract from his service! Every service man in the war did their part to bring victory to the allies! Thank you veterans!
A tragic end to a brilliant career!
Winston went into a VA Hospital in Vermont in the late fifties suffering from mental illness. He was transferred to the New York VA Hospital later and he remained there until his death.
Winston's immediate family is gone, meaning his wife, son and daughter, as well as his brother. More distant family members are still alive.
This writer wishes to pay tribute to Winston Freer and thank him posthumously for his contributions to the magical fraternity! In all due respect, the man was a genius and loved magic. We all stand on the shoulders of those who have been here before us! Let us not forget! Thank you Winston!
Thanks to the following people for providing information.
Tim Trono
Don Howard
Pat Sullivan
Gene Matsuura


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SS Railing
For the past many years, we have been involved in manufacturing and supplying of a vast array of Stainless Steel Railing Designs. Railings are used to make building exteriors such as balcony, staircase and roofs. Our stainless steel railings are offered in enthralling designs and dimension sizes as per the demands of the customers. These stainless steel products are largely appreciated for the key features like superior tensile strength, high thermal resistance and moist proof. We offer our all stainless products at market prevailing prices.
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Buddies Paper Doll Bathtime Fun
Get the kids in the school days bathtime mode with this Buddies Paper Doll Bathtime Fun craft. Have the kids work on their cutting skills by cutting out their Buddies Bath Tub in black and white or color. Have them set up a plan to talk to their favorite Buddies pet about the importance of a schedule especially on school nights and how much fun playing in the tub can be. Then have them set a good example by cheerfully taking their own bath at the scheduled time and having fun playing in the tub.
Trivia: The first tub in America was used by a Cincinnati resident named Thompson in 1842.
White Paper or Card Stock
Glue Dots or Glue Sticks
Crayons, Markers or Colored Pencils
Print out the bath tub in either black and white or color and cut out. I think card stock is better because it will hold up better during repeated use. If you are coloring, color first and then cut out. It makes it easier.
Select your favorite Buddies Paper Doll in black and white or color and cut out.
Glue your Buddie behind the tub to start their bathtime fun.
Listed under:
Cut and Paste Crafts, More School Crafts, Paper Dolls, PreSchool Crafts
Tagged as:
easy printable kids crafts, paper doll crafts, printable paper dolls
What do you think?
These projects are created by Terri, Betty, Jamie or one of the talented staff members at MakingFriends.com. They have been created exclusively for publication on FreeKidsCrafts.com with supplies you'll be able to find around your house.
Patterns, Templates and Printables
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Ice cream makers: Compare features & prices Magimix Le Glacier 1.1 11047 review http://www.which.co.uk/home-and-garden/small-appliances/reviews/ice-cream-makers/magimix-le-glacier-1-1-11047/review/
The Magimix Le Glacier 1.1 11047 ice cream maker has a 1.1-litre capacity and it comes with an impressive recipe booklet listing ideas for everything from traditional vanilla to tomato. We wanted to see how good this Magimix ice cream maker is at churning out delicious frozen desserts, so we put it to the test in our labs.
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Magimix Le Glacier 1.1 11047
- Launch date: Nov 2000
- Type: Freezing bowl
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BOSTON BOSTON — The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum welcomes back an old friend this week — a treasured portrait by 17th century Spanish master Deigo Velazquez that's been off-view to the public while undergoing a major restoration.
The work depicting Spain's King Philip IV is reclaiming its former spot in the Gardner's Titian room. That's where I met with Gianfranco Pocobene, head of conservation at the museum. He's labored for hundreds of hours to give the nearly seven-foot tall portrait, dated 1628, it's painstaking face-lift. On Tuesday it stood before us, refreshed and upright at floor level, waiting to be re-hung in it's gilded frame.
Before we talked about the restoration process, Pocobene reminded me of the work's origin and significance.
"What's fascinating about the painting and the history is Velazquez arrives in Madrid in the early 1620s, and he's appointed the sole court painter for the king," he said. In that role the young artist executed an ongoing series of related pieces featuring the king in a variety of poses.
He did this for decades. Velazquez and his workshop also made official copies of the monarch's image for ministers and courtiers in Spain. The Gardner's painting is an exact replica of the famous portrait in the Prado Museum in Madrid.
There are about 110 known paintings credited to Velazquez and his workshop. The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston has a King Philip portrait in its collection. Just last month the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York re-attributed its restored painting to the artist, which made headlines (In 1973 the Met determined it was likely not by Velazquez, although many long questioned that conclusion — apparently with good reason).
As for the Gardner's King Phillip, Pocobene said it was indeed painted by the artist and his followers. Bringing their centuries-old portrait back to life has been an honor for him, but he admitted it was also a challenge.
It was last restored by museum conservators in 1948. Over the years the varnishes used back then had darkened and gone murky, Pocobene recalled. Combined with accumulated surface grime they created "sort of a veil over the surface of the painting," he said.
But his modern conservation treatment yielded dramatic improvements in the painting's appearance. In essence Pocobene was able to re-saturate the image during the process. Now the young monarch pops out of its grayish, almost other-worldly background.
In the portrait King Philip strikes a regal pose. He's dressed in deep black. A simple white collar frames his fleshy young face. The cleaned-up composition emphasizes the tension in the portrait, according to Pocobene.
"I think with the removal of the old varnish and restorations you get this sort of contrast of the hands and face rendered in this very realistic manner," he said, pointing to the fingers, "and that's one of the things Velazquez is really noted for, is this realism that he was able to portray in his pictures. There's this kind of interesting dynamic between the realism of the figure and this abstraction of the background."
Up close the painting looks refreshed. Gleaming. You can see the pink in King Philip's cheeks and the folds in his dark garments.
Pocobene said he also learned much more about what went into making this great work. He had the opportunity to conduct a thorough technical analysis of the portrait, thanks to the Gardner's current building expansion.
The museum's new building will be completed in early 2012, but right now Pocobene's old facilities are disassembled as his new space is being constructed.
To do his work on the Velazquez, Pocobene rented conservation labs across the river at the Harvard Art Museums. There Pocobene had access to x-radiography, infrared imaging, UV examination and cross-sectional analysis, "which is where we take small paint samples and analyze the characteristics of the paint," he explained, assuring me that the samples were tiny, "smaller than a grain of sand."
He showed me a photo of a cross-section of a speck of paint. Two distinct layers of paint were clearly visible, but also the remnants of previous restorations. This helped Pocobene plot his conservation strategies.
For him the most significant finding revealed the presence of a "red earth ground layer" which Velazquez and his assistants applied to the canvas before painting the portrait. The artist employed this technique only for a few years in the 1620s, according to Pocobene. Technically the discovery of this layer places the work firmly in that period, he said. The red layer also made a considerable impact on the resulting image, giving it a warmer tone. "So all of this technology is fascinating to inform you as you go along with the process of doing the work," he added.
In the end, Pocobene said it's been a thrill to spend so much quality, intimate time with Velazquez's portrait of King Philip IV. But he'll be glad to see it back on the wall in the Gardner's glorious Titian room, where it belongs. Works like this are rare treasures, the conservator mused with a humble smile, "and you don't get another chance if you don't do it right."


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EveryDay Life tells the story of L a hardworking young father trapped between the world he lives and the life he wants. After shootings, police searches, and a lot of shenanigans L has an epiphany and decides against all odds to better his life for himself and his daughter. MG Hardie's book has earned several 5 star reviews.Reviewers, radio hosts, and college professors have called the book "Ground-Breaking", "Realistic", "A Masterpiece",… Continue
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THALEIA (or Thalia) was one of the nine Mousai (Muses), the goddesses of music, song and dance. Her name was derived from the Greek word thaleia, meaning "rich festivity" or "blooming." In Classical times, when the Mousai were assigned specific artistic and literary spheres, Thaleia was named Muse of comedy and bucolic poetry. In this guise she was portrayed with the attributes of comic mask, shepherd's staff and wreath of ivy.
THALEIA or THALIA (Thaleia, Thalia). One of the nine Muses. and, at least in later times, regarded as the Muse of Comedy. (Hes. Theog. 77.) She became the mother of the Corybantes by Apollo. (Apollod. i. 3. § 4; Plut. Sympos. ix. 14.)
Source: Dictionary of Greek and Roman Biography and Mythology.
Hesiod, Theogony 75 ff (trans. Evelyn-White) (Greek epic C8th or C7th B.C.) :
"The Mousai (Muses) sang who dwell on Olympos, nine daughters begotten by great Zeus, Kleio (Clio) and Euterpe, Thaleia (Thalia), Melpomene and Terpsikhore (Terpsichore), and Erato and Polymnia (Polyhymnia) and Ourania (Urania) and Kalliope (Calliope)."
Aristophanes, Birds 737 ff (trans. O'Neill) (Greek comedy C5th to 4th B.C.) :
"[A bird singing in a comedy-play:] Oh, Mousa Iokhmaia (Rustic Muse, Muse of the Coppice) of such varied note, tiotiotiotiotiotinx, I [a bird] sing with you in the groves and on the mountain tops, tiotiotiotinx. I poured forth sacred strains from my golden throat in honour of the god Pan, tiotiotiotinx, from the top of the thickly leaved ash, and my voice mingles with the mighty choirs who extol Kybele on the mountain tops, totototototototototinx."
Pseudo-Apollodorus, Bibliotheca 1. 13 (trans. Aldrich) (Greek mythographer C2nd A.D.) :
"Mnemosyne [bore to Zeus] the Mousai (Muses), the eldest of whom was Kalliope (Calliope), followed by Kleio (Clio), Melpomene, Euterpe, Erato, Terpsikhore (Terpsichore), Ourania (Urania), Thaleia (Thalia), and Polymnia."
Pseudo-Apollodorus, Bibliotheca 1. 18 :
"Apollon and Thaleia (Thalia) had the Korybantes (Corybantes)."
Diodorus Siculus, Library of History 4. 7. 1 (trans. Oldfather) (Greek historian C1st B.C.) :
"Hesiod even gives their [the Muses'] names when he writes: 'Kleio, Euterpe, and Thaleia, Melpomene, Terpsikhore and Erato, and Polymnia, Ourania, Kalliope too, of them all the most comely.'
To each of the Mousai (Muses) men assign her special aptitude for one of the branches of the liberal arts, such as poetry, song, pantomimic dancing, the round dance with music, the study of the stars, and the other liberal arts . . . For the name of each Mousa (Muse), they say, men have found a reason appropriate to her: . . . Thaleia (Thalia), because men whose praises have been sung in poems flourish (thallein) through long periods of time."
Orphic Hymn 76 to the Muses (trans. Taylor) (Greek hymns C3rd B.C. to 2nd A.D.) :
"Daughters of Mnemosyne and Zeus . . . Kleio (Clio), and Erato who charms the sight, with thee, Euterpe, ministering delight: Thalia flourishing, Polymnia famed, Melpomene from skill in music named: Terpsikhore (Terpsichore), Ourania (Urania) heavenly bright."
Statius, Silvae 2. 1. 114 ff (trans. Mozley) (Roman poetry C1st A.D.) :
"If in Grecian dress he declaimed the Attic speech of fluent Menander [the writer of comedies], Thalia [muse of comedy] would have rejoiced and praised his accents, and in wanton mood have disordered his comely locks with a rosy garland."
Other references not currently quoted here: Plutarch Table-Talk 9.14


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STATELINE (WIFR) – President Obama called congressional leaders to the White House on day two of the partial government shutdown, to look for a way to end it.
On Capitol Hill, the battle over legislation to fund the government and the blame game continues. Democrats want a spending bill without any strings attached. Republicans want a delay in the President's health care law to be part of the deal.
Some local federal workers are being forced to stay home because of the shutdown. It's a story you told us about on Facebook. We spoke with an Illinois National Guard Technician who's seeing furlough days for the second time this year.
It's unusual for Nate Seabaugh to be home during the day. He's normally at the Illinois National Guard Armory in Machesney Park working on trucks, but thanks to the government shutdown, home is where Seabaugh is forced to stay until who knows when.
"How long is this going to last and to me that's the hardest part about it. I think everybody has an idea of what government jobs are and what they entail and usually they're pretty secure and you don't have to worry about these kinds of things, but here we are," Seabaugh said.
Seabaugh was also furloughed back in July because of federal budget issues. He got six, non-consecutive un-paid days off and having a wife and three kids to support doesn't make this round's waiting game any easier.
"You know, I do have a rainy day fund, but depending on how long it lasts, there's been speculation it's only going to be a week, it might be a month, we don't really know."
Ten more military technicians from the Machesney Park Armory are wondering the same thing. They have also been furloughed.
Seabaugh's wife only works part-time, so he has filed for unemployment, as well as some of the other national guard technicians. In total, there are 1,300 Illinois National Guard Military Technicians. 1,100 of them have been furloughed.
Military members who are deemed essential, like active National Guard Members are still working and being paid. There are about 30 people who work at the Machesney Park Armory, eleven technicians are furloughed.


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Great Dad Moments - Jon FavreauWhit Honea
Director/actor/writer Jon Favreau was spotted in the cool waters of the Pacific with his lovely wife Joya and their son Max.
They also have two daughters that apparently can't swim.
Favreau has done me some real solids, what with Swingers and Iron Man, but his real legacy may be Elf which is about two months away from being played daily in our household. Seriously.
Thanks, Jon!
Article Posted 7 years Ago


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Gulf2Gulf screened at the Mont24 film festival
Mushypea's Gulf2Gulf was lucky enough to have been selected to be shown at the Mont24 mountain bike race film festival at Sparrow Hill forest, Canberra. It was great to see her on the big screen last Saturday evening during the night racing. With team mates out on the course racing around the 19km circuit, Fergal and I [...]
Gulf2Gulf goes full length
After almost a year the final cut of the Gulf2Gulf DVD came hot off the mac production line last night. If anyone is thinking of doing this trip (I know there a few) then let me know and I'd be happy to pop a copy in the post.
The DVD is split into two parts, [...]
Front Cover of Adventure Cyclist
The Aussie Birdsville Track makes the front cover of Adventure Cyclist magazine in the USA. The Yellow Pages advertises the latest and greatest in bike components and travel accessories from trailers to fleeces and maps. 45,000 copies will be distributed nationwide to members and will also be available on the interweb.
Adventure Cycling Association's [...]
AMB G2G in the shops 8th July
Australian Mountain Bike mag are printing this Monday and the Gulf2Gulf story will be in the shops on 8th July running for 6 weeks, I wonder how the photos will come out??
We covered:
The Route
Water Health Life
Carrying capacity restrictions
Escaping the heat on the Birdsville Track
Essential Kit Lists
Jeff's 15 minutes of fame
Jeff Johnson (www.jeffswalk.com) will be on Local Radio tomorrow talking about his amazing walk from Gulf 2 Gulf.
I am to be interviewed about the walk and the book on the ABC local radio on
Friday (12th) by Richard Fidler on his "Conversation hour". It starts at
11am and sometimes is one interviewee and sometimes two. So I [...]
Photos are up
I just finished loading the photos from the trip on to mushypea.net, they can be found on the following link:
The video trailer is coming along and should be finished in the next week – we had one video camera break on the last day so Tim dropped the last of the footage from the back [...]
Mushypea Industries – now a registered business name
Mushypea Industries goes live! I can't quite believe my old mountain bike colour is now a grown up business name.
Jeff Johnson – The Long Walk
Tim and I thought we did it tough, but check out this guy, www.jeffswalk.com
Jeff Johnson (aged 66) walked the same route we cycled in 2009 and it took him 5 months to do the crossing. �
I first spotted Jeff's book in Normanton at the local shop and was inspired by his 'get out there' spirit [...]
Thanks to everyone for their blogs and donations!
Well, here I am back in Sydney editing video and photos from the trip, in my element! I'm enjoying a couple of glasses of SA red wine and some good music and I must say the trip now seems a long time ago.
Tim flew back to Sydney last week and I got back on Friday [...]
It's all coming to an end..
Onwards to the Gulf!
With the end in sight we felt a renewed energy and were really getting the most out of the bikes, the cameras and the breath taking scenery. We did lots more video as all of a sudden more and more wildlife sprung up on the side of the roads, in and around [...]
Killer millipedes, crocodylus porosus and final 5am stretches!
On the subject of dangerous animals, did I mention the nasty killer millipede that bit me on my little toe in the night between Burke & Wills and Normanton – the night of the big thunder storm? I seriously thought it was a spider and freaked out when it bit me at 2am. I bounced [...]
We make it to Normanton – the end is in sight – 70km to go!
The ride to Normanton was hot but fairly easy paced as we only had 65km to go before reaching the small town for brekkie. We had time to set up some shots and relax a little before the sun got too hot.
We spent the morning chatting away with one of the Aboriginal locals, Michael who [...]
Easter on the road
To be honest I had no idea it was Easter until Tim pulled a packet of hot cross buns out of his Bob trailer! Legend!
We were heading to Normanton and had another 110km to pull off this Easter Monday. We found some shade at 10am and happily set about making our temporary home for the [...]
We make it to Carpenteria Shire!
After leaving Burke and Wills at 4pm the day before, we camped in a paddock of cows again and watched a breath taking lightning show that night right above Boulia. The sky lit up and flickered while we ate our pasta.
We missed the rain by only a few days and the next day we learnt [...]
Burke & Wills – a tough morning
The ride into the remote Burke and Wills roadhouse was extremely tough. May be we thought the worst was over and we got a bit complacent. May be the heat was getting to us afterall this time on the road or may be the endless bitumen proved mentally hard to follow for hours on end. [...]
53.1 degrees, Australia's highest temperature: Cloncurry 1889
Yep this place is hot and the further north we head the more humid the ride becomes. We both enjoyed a lay in today – 6:30am start no less.
To be riding in the day light straight after brekkie seemed a bit odd. like we had missed a lot of the day already. We had to [...]
Ghostly goings on at Mary Kathleen
Goodness it's been a while since we had internet access but we do now!
The ride out of Mt Isa was beautiful. It's pretty hilly coming out of the Isa but the trailers were fairly light for the trip to Cloncurry (or as we named it, Clonkers). Lots of 4WD's beeped and waved us and a [...]
Time to leave Mt Isa – on the road again
Our next stop is Cloncurry to the East. We'll be heading in to a head wind this evening and rain is on its way – time to test the MSR hubba hubba tent waterproof skin me thinks!
We'll try to blog in Cloncurry tomorrow afternoon, failing that it will probably be Normanton as we have about [...]
While in Mt Isa..
While we're here we have been lucky enough to be shown around the largest mine in Mt Isa, the Xtrata mine. The mine dominates the town and Darren from Xtrata drove us around for a surface tour earlier today. The mine is mainly used for Copper, Zinc and Lead mining - we were blown away with how [...]
Had fun at the ABC!
Tim and I met with the guys at ABC North West Radio for the brekkie show with Stacey Katter. We talked about the adventures of the outback we've had so far including dealing with the heat coming into Mungerannie and the Birdsville, how important carrying the right amount of water has been to the trip [...]
Boulia to Mt Isa – sealed roads all the way
It's great to be on sealed roads at last – though not as easy as we first thought. We are trying to get in as many kilometres as possible in the morning from 4:30am (as usual) and so far we are averaging 100km per morning before brekkie at around 10am.�
From Boulia we climbed on the [...]
Diverts, crashes and floods
We left Birdsville for the Channel Country that evening at 5pm hoping to make up some time but we probably pushed ourselves a little too much – Dave came off in the sand at night about half a dozen times and Tim managed to pick up a deep cut in the right foot (well he is riding 2,500km [...]
We arrive in Birdsville!
Next morning we are up at 4am again. We stopped at 6am for a Verofit nutrition bar accompanied by the sound of howling dingos in the bush – best not hang around then :)
For the last three days on the track we were feeling very ferel and had been dreaming of ordering 4 beers at the [...]


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transcript within 3 to 5 business days after submission.
Submit a GCSAA evaluation survey»
For sponsored events, listen for the code provided at the end of the webinar, and submit it on your external education affidavit.
If you have a suggestion for a topic, or would like to present a webcast, please contact Lisa Wick, senior manager of e-learning programs.
June 2: Empowering Your Career - Equipment Management Series Aug. 30: Planning a Snow Mold Prevention Program
Our live events are recorded and available On Demand 24/7. After watching, complete the evaluation survey to earn education points.
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To earn points after listening, enter the offering code on the external education affidavit.