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Forty-five miles of Munros…
Three brilliant weekends on the hills, all culminating in a Lylecraigs club outing to Knoydart, a place I reckon I would never have visited if I hadn't wanted to walk the hills – and I would be much the emptier person.
24/4/16 – Glen Etive, 12 miles.
Munros bagged:
Beinn nan Aighenan (960m) & Glas Bheinn Mhor (997m)
Two hills with Lylecraigs. This end of Glen Etive tends to be done as a pair – huge, looming Ben Starav and Glas Bheinn Mhor – and Beinn nan Aighenan as a singleton; but Bill hasn't done these two, so we parcel them up, and I'll do Ben Starav on its own some time in the future.
Two lovely hills on a lovely day. The views of Gen Etive and over to Ben Cruachan are breathtaking.
A really good workout. Twelve miles and a fair whack of ascent mean the long walk out is bloody weary, and the muscles burn for a couple of days afterwards.
Good company. It's a big turnout, so there's a churning over of conversations and craic, so it's lots of fun.
Just a long, long walk in and a long, long walk out…
1/5/16 – Loch Lochy, 12 miles.
Munros bagged:
Sron a Choire Ghairbh (937m) and Meall na Teanga (918m)
I've had my eye on these for a while because they are very straightforward, and because they are (just) over the boundary of the Great Glen, which is largely alien territory for me. So David Simons and I pop up on Saturday and head off on the Sunday.
Meall na Teanga is a tiddler by Munro standards, but the views –when the weather clears up in the afternoon – are stunning, especially south to Ben Nevis which looks positively Tolkeinian in its grandeur. Fantastic.
Both hills are readily accessible. Sron a Choire Ghairbh has a great winding path up its flanks, and Meall na Teanga is a straightforward shoulder all the way up to the summit – though we have to detour around some steep, slippy, snowy slopes to its lower slopes to reach it.
The weather in the morning is pretty wintry, so Sron a Choire Ghairbh is a bit of a slog with little reward at the top in terms of views.
And a long, long walk in and a long, long walk out…
7-8/5/16 – Knoydart, 30+ miles
Munros bagged:
Luinne Bheinn (939m) & Meall Bhuidhe (946m)
Ladhar Bheinn (1020m)
I want to die in Knoydart. I may well discover somewhere more beautiful and change my mind, but right now, it'll do for me. From the boat in (you can't drive there) to the boat out, it is just stunning. And I get to climb three iconic Scottish mountains, and I loved them all.
I love Saturday. Luinne Bheinn and Meall Bhuidhe are wonderful hills, especially the latter. The morning is wintry, but in the afternoon, the cloud lifts, and we have a great time scrambling up Meall Buidhe's ridge and along its summit plateau. The views are magnificent, the walking is continually interesting.
I love Sunday. Tired feet that we are, we adopt the easy route up and down what is normally the descent route to Ladhar Bheinn's summit. As such we miss out on the classic route over Aonach Sgoilite and around the edge of Coire Dhorrcail. That's probably a good thing because of those tired feet and because of the wind; blowy as it is, I find the walk along the summit ridge, with the narrow path right at the edge of the corrie just at the edge of my comfort zone. As I approach the summit ridge, I'm really tired, and it's an effort to put one foot in front of the other; looking at the ridge, with that big, big drop to the left hand side that the wind wants to blow me off, I'm along that ridge and back again like a road runner…
Other than that wintry morning and the gusty wind on both days, absolutely nothing.
Oh, apart from the long, long walks in and the long, long walks out. I think I see a pattern here…
The continuing fixes of a hillwalking junkie?
Munros bagged:
10/4/16: Meall a'Bhuiridh (1108m) & Creise (1100m)
17/4/16: Schiehallion (1083m)
A couple of lovely Sundays on the hills to keep my preaparatiuon for a big trip to Knoydart on track.
First up are the two Black Mount hills. Meall a'Bhuiridh's ascent is typical ski resort stuff; steep and ugly. However, this is a nice hill on the upper slopes, especially on the way down where the snow is perfect for skiing, snowboarding and bumsliding. Then the cracking ridge to Creise, not too narrow but snowy enough and steep enough to cause a few flutters, especially on the descent; without crampons on, I take a tumble and crack my arm off a rock, and then get my foot wedged in between two rocks when I go thigh-deep into snow. Good fun, and all in the company of my colleague and pal Lio and his lovely kids. It's a real privilege being on the hills with such a fantastic family.
Then a Sunday popping up Scheihallion with my mate David and Liz from the Lylecraigs Walking Club. It's a doddle, this big whale-backed ridge of a hill; exposed though it is – and it's a really blowy day at the top – we're up and down in a couple of minutes over four hours, which is damned good going.
So next up is Glen Etive with the club, and then a day away to bag the Loch Lochy Munros with David before Knoydart. Someone asked me the other day if this was becoming an addiction. Dunno really; is there a difference between a habit and an obsession? All I know is, right now, it feels kind of essential.
A ninesome of Munros: Glenshee, 2-3/4/16
My hillwalking adventures are gathering apace, and at the beginning of May I have a huge trip to Knoydart with Lylecraigs walking group to tackle three iconic Scottish mountains, including the legendary Ladhar Bheinn. Everyone in the group is talking about 'getting fit for Knoydart', and basically scaring the bejasus out of me about just how hard it's going to be. So as preparation – and to make a huge hole in my bagged Munros list – I decided to book up for a weekend around Glenshee with the excellent John Walker working through Steven Fallon's company.
Day 1
Munros bagged: Creag Leacach (987), Glas Maol (1068m), Cairn of Claise (1064m), Tom Buidhe (957m), Tolmount (958m), Carn an Tuirc (1019m)
As late as Thursday night, Saturday's forecast looked decidedly pishy. 20% chance of cloud free Munros, wind, rain and sleet; not nice. But not for the first time this winter, the forecasters got it spectacularly wrong. This is usually bagged as a group of four, with the outliers of Tom Buidhe and Tolmount done separately, but on a good day , there's no reason why all six can't be completed. John plans a really nice linear route, and by planting cars at various points along the A93, it means we can bail out at any point. No need; this is an unbelievably good day, with clear skies and an almost total lack of wind all the way round. Just couldn't be better.
Again, a group of total strangers get together and have a ball. Rolf is an aristocratic German gentleman and oozes class and politeness, even when asking about grouse poo; Julie is a laugh a minute nurse whose infectious enthusiasm keeps us going; Colm is a pal of John's, a smashing bloke who soldiers through the whole weekend with a cough that makes him sound like a 1930s tuberculosis patient; Andy is an Aberdonian who has all the quiet assuredness of Bear Grylls; and John is funny and reassuring and always keeps an eye on how everyone is feeling, giving us all a real sense of confidence.
The aforementioned weather. We're all carrying Nanook of the North levels of equipment – down jacket, crampons, ice axe, spare everything – but I manage to spend the day with just a base and a mid-layer on, and I'm never once cold. All the ironmongery we're carrying is worth it just in case – there are still Arctic levels of snow up there – but it makes for heavy going at times. Luckily, a group of young guys leads the way for us; with their minimal equipment and horrendously fit limbs, they break trail, and John is grateful that we are able to follow in their footsteps. When I get home, I discover through Facebook that one of them is the fiancé of a former student of mine; small world!
The views are astonishing. All the way to Lochnager and Braeriach and Mount Keen, and Mayar and Dreish looking like close neighbours; again, I can't help marvelling at just how gorgeous the country I live in is. And with three of these being 1000 metre+ biggies, the landscape just lays itself out before us…
Lots of wildlife – hare and deer and grouse. But oh dear, the ptarmigan. The hillsides are hoaching with them, and they're more or less oblivious to us because it's mating season and their minds are on other things. The hens scurry around with that head-down-tail-up 'come and get me boys' look, and the males are just stupid, doing their daft wee dance and chasing after the ladies as if their lives depended on it. Honestly, if someone up there had played 'Yakety Sax', it would have been an entirely appropriate soundtrack for the wee beggars.
Best of all? Bumsliding off of Carn an Tuirc. I had my one and only skiing lesson about four years ago. It was a disaster. I couldn't get the hang of the balance, and realised that my arse was a much safer piece of sporting equipment to get me off a mountain than strapping two planks of wood to my feet and letting go. John's an expert, and we have some real fun over a couple of hundred metres or so of mountainside. He really should organise bumsliding skills weekends.
None. Even the exhaustion of 20 kilometres through snow to do six Munro summits is exhilarating.
Day 2
Munros bagged: The Cairnwell (933m), Carn a' Gheoidh (975m), Carn Aosda (917m)
Sunday brings the weather we expected on Saturday, and it's a completely different day, a day just to trudge through it and get the damned things done. This is perhaps the easiest group of Munros of all to do – we hit The Cairnwell summit by 9.30, and arrive at Carn Aosda before 1pm – but the weather blows in and makes the going tough, especially the trudge out to the more remote and exposed Carn a'Gheoidh; with weary legs factored in too, it's very tiring. As we approach the final summit of Carn Aosda, Rolf suggests someone has put lead in his boots, and I'm just about at the 'enough already' stage…
They're bagged. That's it.
Well, there's the weather, but The Cairnwell is also just about the ugliest place I've ever seen. The ascent is a relentless pull up scarred slopes underneath the chair lift, and the summit is reminiscent of some desultory, abandoned set from a 1960s World War II movie – think The Heroes of Telemark or Where Eagles Dare, or any film with Richard Widmark in it, and you'll get the picture. I can see no reason for ever climbing this hill again, thank you very much…
So 9 summits bagged in about 28 hours; that should do a bit for my hill fitness, and that big, big trip to Knoydart.
A wee dauner on the Buachaille… 20/3/16
Munros bagged:
Stob Coire Raineach (925m)
Stob Dubh (956m)
A fantastic day on the wee Buachaille on Sunday. The weather forecasters had predicted cloud and wind, and they were, thankfully, spectacularly wrong.
I'd been eyeing up Buachaille Etive Beag for some time now, since I haven't done much walking in Glencoe so far. I bagged Sgor na h-Ulaidh about twelve years ago, then popped up Meall Dearg last year to take a look at the Aonach Eagach, but that's been all. I've scrambling plans for Beinn a'Bheithir and Bidean nam Bian later in the summer, and perhaps – perhaps – a crack at Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor with the Lylecraigs walkers. So this was a good chance to scope it all out.
And it is a beautiful day. Snow is rapidly disappearing from the hills but, strangely, when we get to the 902 metre cairn, Stob Dubh looms up intimidatingly, still almost fully clothed in white. It must be sheltered from wind and sunshine, because most of the surrounding hills are almost naked. And the snow is fabulous, packed and hard and just perfect crampon conditions; I still can't get over how much security those Edward Scissorfeet shoes give you, and feel like the human fly, especially descending steep snowfields.
The snowline accentuates the narrowing of the ridge, and it's only when the venerable Donald – veteran of three Munro rounds and about to compleat the Corbetts, a man who always makes walks feel safer with his presence – says that conditions are okay, do we dump our rucksacks and crack on to the summit. And what a summit, and what a view down Glen Etive, and over the Etive Mor and the complex, knobbly Bidean, then over the Aonach Eagach looking remarkably benign in the glorious sunshine.
Then it's back along the ridge. Sharon and I haven't done either of these, so Liz and Jean head back to the cars for lunch, and Donald accompanies us up Stob Coire Raineach. I don't know what happens, but a switch inside me goes off and lets loose the nitrous oxide. Once more freed from rucksacks, I set off blasting it up the rocky, snow-free slope, and we're at the top in twenty minutes. Not exactly fell running, but not a bad performance for an old bloke. Then a quick turnaround and back down the glen.
Lots and lots of positives. Good company, gorgeous weather, fantastic scenery and lots of practice with ice axe and crampons. We're looking at a spell of unsettled weather, so this may well be the best day out for some time now.
That's fine; it's one that'll live long enough.
Assessment Seminar with Bethan Marshall and Simon Gibbons: Wednesday 16/3/16
The Scottish Association for the Teaching of English held a seminar last Wednesday, in association with The University of Strathclyde. Simon Gibbons and Bethan Marshall, from King's Colege London, had a lot to say that was very pertinent to the introduction if standards testing in Scotland. Their conclusion – evidence suggests it does little to close the 'attainment gap'. Check out the SATE blog for a report (coming soon) and other news.
Here's my Introduction to the seminar; my views, not the views of SATE or Strathclyde!
'There's never been a more appropriate time for Scottish teachers of English to join a strong subject association. I'm in the middle of interviewing next year's applicants for PGDE, and I think every year since 2001, I've told them that this is a time of great change in Scottish education; this year, that is true more than ever, and as I approach perhaps not the sunset of my career, but definitely the twilight, I don't think I have ever been less optimistic about the future.
There are good things on the horizon, to be sure. If PRD is as supportive as it is said to be, teachers will have a real structure in which to plan their own professional development. As English teachers, membership of NATE offers access to the latest research and classroom practice, as well as resources, and is tailor made for the PRD process. Social media, Teach Meets and Pedagoo mean that teachers are coming together to cater for their own development needs, plugging the gaps in CPD that denuded budgets and the loss of curriculum advisers have allowed to develop, and NATE offers an umbrella under which we can all shelter and share. These, then, are exciting times for teachers who are doing it for themselves, and the one huge improvement I've seen over my fifteen years in teacher education is how the professional knowledge and skills of teachers has grown, almost exponentially. When I left Jordanhill College, I knew on average it would take about 8 years to be promoted; I now see my students achieving promoted status with two or three years, and I have no doubt that they are absolutely ready for it.
But there are dark forces gathering in Scottish education that seek to change it irrevocably. Because of our proudly independent system, we tend to feel that we are cushioned against the worst excesses of the wider world, excesses that have been chillingly demonstrated by the Westminster Government's ideological obsession with taking all schools out of local authority control, to be managed centrally by government and locally by a patchwork of individual school boards, interest groups and private enterprises. The disingenuous rhetoric in which those ideas are framed– 'choice', 'parental voice', 'flexibility' – masks what is fundamentally an economic driver behind reform.
In New Orleans, Hurricane Katrina destroyed all but 15 of its 168 publicly funded and controlled schools; in the aftermath of the disaster, the whole school system was privatised, every child went to a school publicly funded but managed for profit by private corporations. The vast majority of teachers were fired, most being replaced by deunionised Teach for America apprentice teachers teaching a denuded curriculum concentrated on a brutal testing regime that is cheap to teach but casts the most vulnerable into poverty and failure. For private enterprise, Katrina was not a tragedy; it was an opportunity.
It was also a crisis created by unprecedented natural events; but man can easily create crises, through underfunding and deregulation, crises in which a system is systematically and deliberately broken and then deemed to be irreparable by anything other than management from a supposedly more efficient private sector. It is this man-made disaster that is driving the move towards the privatisation – wrapped up in the educationally aspirational term 'academisation' – that George Osborne is building a large portion of the Budget around.
There is a much resistance to such moves in Scotland, where we are proud of our state funded, local authority managed comprehensive states system. It has served us well, for all its faults. But those forces which would dismantle that system are undoubtedly gathering, forces which range from groups of parents (usually middle class) rightly anxious about local school closures to influential think tanks to former highly paid public education executives who have slickly managed the transition to become champions of (and I quote) 'increased economic prosperity and more effective public services based on the principles of limited government, diversity and personal responsibility.' And in a world run by TTIP in which private corporations have the legal right to siphon off profitable parts of public services uninhibited by the democratic will of the people, education services and even individual schools may well find themselves being circled by some very ravenous wolves.
There is less resistance, however, to apprenticeship models of teacher training. Tom Hunter's 'exploration' of Scottish education recently highlighted a successful academy in London, employing 'Teach First' teachers, described as 'the very best graduates', as if anyone not on such a scheme is somehow the underqualified dross of the teaching profession. The Scottish Government's warm response – a sort of 'if it works, we'll do it' common sense – suggests that they may well look at different models of teacher training. Let's be clear, though. Apprenticeship models of teacher training work on exactly the same principles as your electricity supply. Power is brought to our homes from the same power stations, along the same cables, through the same substations; it is only when the envelope with the bill arrives that a multitude of companies clamour and compete for the right to charge us for that same electricity. Training providers – whether individual schools, local authorities or – most likely – private corporations – will still place student teachers in the same schools with the same mentors, still access the same university courses and tutors, will still employ the same accreditation bodies as ever. But with a product to now sell, with a contract to protect, with profits to enhance – what is the chance that the need to be 'outstanding' will (and I use the word advisedly but appropriately) trump the need to adhere to rigorous quality standards?
This is all going to happen, as sure as the sun rises and sets. After the Japanese earthquake, news outlets had panels of experts that included earthquake scientists, nuclear power station engineers and financial consultants, as if economic activity is as immutable and inevitable as tectonic plate shifts and radioactive meltdown. And, in the world we live in, it is. Neoliberalism will have its way.
But people can – should – speak out; otherwise, we will lose all that we value without a whimper. Whether it is on these global issues that threaten to swallow education as we know it, or whether it is on the – not unrelated – issues of the closure of school libraries, or the development of a vocational curriculum, or the place of Scottish culture and texts in our classrooms, or the reintroduction of national testing, English teachers can and should have a voice. For decades, that voice has been NATE, and we have two of its most influential members here tonight. I won't say much about them, since most of you quoted Bethan Marshall in your last assignments on assessment and therefore know her work well. And when Conservative Home (The Home of Conservatives), a body deliciously unacquainted with the concept of tautology, describes Simon Gibbons as a 'classic Leftist elitist' who 'uses impeccable standard English', you know he's worth listening to. That same august body said of NATE, 'it's time is up.' That was four years ago. It would be nice to watch it grow in Scotland.'
Just the best day… Beinn Udlaidh and Beinn Bhreac-liath, Glen Orchy, 28/2/16
I reckon half of Scotland must have been out on Sunday, a perfect, perfect winter's day, whether they were on the hills or out on boats or walking in the park. I was out too, with my pals in Lylecraigs Hillwalking Club. Two lovely little Corbetts above Glen Orchy, these sit in the middle of a ring of iconic hills: Ben Cruachan, Ben Starav, Ben Lui looking magnificent in a full winter coat, Stob Binnein and Ben More, Beinn Dorain – the views are astonishing.
You haven't lived if you haven't seen Scotland looking like this…
Walking in a sensory deprivation tank: two Drumochter Munros
17/1/16 – Munros bagged:
A'Bhuidheanach Bheag (936 metres)
Carn na Caim (941 metres)
So after missing out on bagging a Munro at last week's winter skills course in Aviemore because of the weather on the plateau, I took advantage of a guided event organised for free by Steven Fallon. It was the first time I've tackled Munros this early in the year, but when someone of his experience offers, you don't say no.
These are unremarkable hills, two mounds on a huge plateau on the east side of the Drumochter pass. A long drive, but very worth it.
The weather. It's a benign day, with little wind (especially on the plateau) and no precipitation. So from that point of view, it's easy going
Again, this was a really nice group, mainly strangers but a few who have been on several of Steven's events. Repeat custom is always a good sign of just how respected he is, and how safe his hands are. A mixed bag, we all get along just fine…
A lovely walk in – lots of mountain hares bounding across the hillsides – and a beautiful walk out, with stunning late afternoon sunlight bathing the pristine slope of the shoulder we use as a short cut, an ethereal half-moon hanging above our heads behind us. Late in the day is always when the light is at its most seductive, whatever the season.
Wow, this was pretty tough going, one of my more strenuous outings. Even the young guys are feeling it, and I guess I'm the one in the party who has been out least over the winter. Despite the gentle weather, we're still trudging ten miles with over 2700 feet of ascent, shin deep in powdery snow most of the way. I usually can't manage to eat all my lunch, but today, every bit of scran in my rucksack – sandwiches, hot and cold fluids, carob bars, seed bars, biscuits, energy gels – is scoffed just to keep my energy levels up. In truth, two Munros was probably a case of me biting off more than I could chew – but, having said that, bite it off I did, and chewed and spat it out, and bagged number 50 to finish off 2015 and number 51 to start off the New Year. Sense of achievement in the bag…
The weather – again. Above the approach slopes, the whole of the plateau is shrouded in cloud. No horizon, no skies visible above, no visibility beyond a few yards. And everything quiet as a graveyard. It's a bit like walking for five hours in a sensory deprivation tank, nothing outside your head but the sound of your own feet and your own breath. At a couple of points I put my goggles down (I don't really like wearing them) and the effect is multiplied tenfold, almost like a goldfish in a bowl. The feeling is so disconcerting; I reckon if I was a goldfish, I'd end it all.
So this was an experience I'm glad I had. Did I enjoy it? Perhaps 'enjoy' is the wrong word, but I did have a cracking day. And I will do it again, and I'm sure I'll have worse days than this in the future.
Winter Skills Course, Aviemore, 9-10/1/16
Had a fantastic weekend skills course up at Aviemore. After a couple of courses at Glenmore Lodge last year, this was through Steven Fallon's company. What is amazing is the quality of outdoor instruction available to us in Scotland; we really are blessed. Our instructors, Richard Kermode and John Walker, were very different, very knowledgeable and very, very reassuring. I learned a huge amount from them, and would go on a course with either of them again; in fact, I'm just about to book some Glencoe scrambling with John in July…
Gorgeous scenery. I was revisiting Cairngorm, where I did my scrambling course last year, but only in winter do you get a sense of just how primitive the plateau is. We didn't venture as far up – day 1 was spent on the ridge between Coire na Cist and Coire Laoigh Mor for some self-belaying and arrest techniques (bumslides are a hoot), while Day 2 was modest because of dodgy weather forecasts, so we ambled up Fiacaill a'Choire Chais and then down into the stunning Coire an t-Sneachda. The Fiacaill Ridge I mostly dodged out of in the summer looked even more intimidating with a winter coat on.
Lovely weather. Other than a bit of bluster on both days, it was all very benign, with some beautiful sunshine and, paradoxically, an even more beautiful mist that clung to the mountain on the second day; it seems to shroud Coire an t-Sneachda in absolute silence.
A great, mixed group; lots of different ages, lots of chat, lots of laughs, no competitiveness, no show offs – just a genuinely nice bunch of people out to have fun and learn. I'd go up a hill with any of them again.
We even managed to see a wee bit of wildlife – ptarmigan, mountain hare and a coastguard helicopter.
The things I learned
I learned that crampons must be the world's most liberating invention, although perhaps incontinence pads and the sports bra might push them close. I really could dance on ice (though that almost ended disastrously). To stand on a steep slope of sheet ice and feel totally at ease, totally stable, was a joy, so much so that I went out today and purchased the biggest, baddest pair of Grivel Brothers I could find.
I learned that I am actually quite good at falling off mountains. On my back, on my stomach, head first, tumbling arse over elbow: not a problem. And thanks to the guys, I can even stop myself pretty well too.
I learned that I cannot dig a snow hole to save myself – literally. Especially with an ice axe. Gimme a shovel and I might get the fucking thing finished by next Tuesday…
Nothing at all. It was a wee bit disappointing not to bag a new Munro, but that would have meant getting up onto the plateau and going for Ben Macdui or something like that, and when someone of the calibre of Richard or John says 'not today,' you bloody well listen. So, I'll save that for another day in the knowledge that the course has extended my walking season by three months; I'll feel fine about trying out winter hills now, and am even thinking of adding a couple by myself in the next few weeks. I have my eye on Stob Binnein from the south (a lovely long, broad whale-backed ridge) or perhaps the wee Buachaille. And then, there are several pals such as the Lylecraigs Hillwalking Club who can look after me on more challenging hills.
Here I come…
Some of the best events of 2015…
Best gigs?
Ane Brun at Oran Mor in December was just fabulous. She's grown from an obscure Norwegian folk singer into a sensation. She gathers a top notch band around her, most notably bassist Dan Berglund, of the tragically disbanded Esbjörn Svensson Trio; my pal Ian's a fan of theirs and suspects most of the band may be Berglund's new group. This is a band that can play anything with consummate ease.
Brun has been updating her catalogue over the last few years, so that even oldies like 'To Let Myself Go' sound totally fresh. Once more, there's enough percussion onstage to rearrange kidneys, and it pounds out the foundations of what she does impeccably; as ever, 'Worship' and 'Do You Remember' are thumping highlights. The stuff from her new album 'When I'm Free' – which has garnered mixed reviews – is slick and expansive, though the whole doesn't quite get me as excited as 'It All Starts With One', underlined by the brilliant and habitual finale, 'Undertow'. However, there are real gems in there, especially for me the sensuously drum-driven 'Directions'. She's incapable of disappointing.
However, gig of the year goes to a half-Norwegian lass, Nadine Shah, at King Tut's in April. An iceberg when she's singing, she's a hoot when she's interacting with the audience, and takes no prisoners. After 'Stealing Cars', I can't resist and burst out a 'that's just beautiful.' She's momentarily touched, and says 'What's your name?' 'Raymond,' I reply. 'Daft name' she says, quite rightly. Brilliant musician, cool, cool woman.
I was very happy to see an old hero of mine, the legendary Bruce Cockburn in October; one brilliant guitarist with a beautiful voice and a line in songwriting that is fiercely passionate about justice and humanity. An activist for decades, anyone who advocates bringing down marauding Guatemalan government helicopters with a rocket launcher can't be all that bad in my book…
Great to see my pal Jill Brown supporting at King Tut's, and the headline act, Polly and the Billet Doux were a bit of a revelation; lead guitarist Andrew 'Steeny' Steen may well be one of the best live guitarists I've seen since… like… ever. Jill is headlining a sell-out Tut's in January; it's well deserved for someone who works so hard on her music.
And it was also good to see Pokey LaFarge again at The Art School. After the debacle of a horrendous audience in Amsterdam a couple of years ago, this was a riot, with a crowd that was into him and willing to give him the space to build a relationship, and everyone, including LaFarge, has a ball. Once more, the musicianship was incredible, especially from the genius of Ryan Koenig on harmonica. Watch them here and marvel…
As for theatre – some good uns, including Benny Cummerbund as the best Hamlet I've ever seen. But cream of the crop was undoubtedly 'Lanark' at the Citz. It's a novel I like and recognise the importance of in the Scottish canon, but I'm not the obsessive devotee I know some are. But this is astonishing and confirms David Greig as one of the world's best playwrights. Sandy Grierson is immense in the title role (he has previous form with Greig, playing Malcolm in Dunsinane a couple of years back); self-absorbed, lost, manipulative and manipulated, he comes across as a true oddity. Direction and set design are amazing too. At over three hours, I wasn't tempted to nod off once, which is a real feat on a work night these days. Stunning.
'Black Mass'
'Black Mass' borrows so much from true-life gangster movies; right from the off, the echoes of Goodfellas is apparent as mobsters line up to tape their evidence, flipping the narrative into a retrospective that tells of the rise and fall of James 'Whitey' Bulger (Johnny Depp). It's a well kent tale of small town opportunism clashing with incompetent law enforcement and high politics (Bulger's State Senator brother, Billy, is played by Benedict Cumberbatch), but is no less rewarding for that.
Depp has form playing real life mob parts, from the undercover FBI agent in Donnie Brasco to the 30s gangster and folk hero John Dillinger. This is, by far I think, his best performance ever, and certainly in this genre. Most of all, it's because most movies play to Depp's handsomeness – Dillinger especially, the suave, charismatic psychotic who women swooned over and proposed to – while this plays to Bulger's innate ugliness. He really is repulsive, the receding hairline and the rotten teeth and the cold blue eyes like some demented cross between Gollum and a velociraptor. He's as chilling as Joe Pesci's Tommy – there's even a reprise of the 'you think I'm a clown' scene as Bulger baits David Harbour's Agent Morris for revealing the 'secret' of his family's steak marinade – and he makes the flesh crawl, most menacingly as he baits his FBI shill John Connolly's wife in the doorway of her bedroom. It's a stunning performance, creepy as fuck.
Bulger's is a story that has been told before, in Scorsese's deeply disappointing 'The Departed', in which Jack Nicholson played Frank Costello, heavily based on Bulger's blue collar Brooklyn shenanigans. That film ultimately failed, though, because it was neither fish nor fowl. A remake of the superior and stunning Andy Lau and Tony Leung Hong Kong thriller Infernal Affairs, it was neither the straight-up biopic Bulger's life required nor the Grand Guignol opera of the original. The more direct approach, from director Scott Cooper who made the beautiful and underrated elegy for blue collar trash Out of the Furnace, works a treat.
The supporting cast is excellent, though the star names are pretty superfluous. Cumberbatch is included as box office bait and does little that any jobbing actor couldn't have done, while Kevin Bacon is given little weight as an FBI boss whose myopia prevents him seeing the brazenly obvious corruption in his office. Best are the likes of Joel Edgerton, who has that perfect 70s sleaziness of the Brooklyn thug wannabe given the keys to the FBI kingdom when he hasn't the brains to use them correctly, and, especially, Rory Cochrane as Bulger's hitman of preference, Steve Flemmi. Cochrane is superb, a walled up cess pool of seething silence, the ruthlessness with which he despatches a mouthy hanger on providing the shackles that chain him to a course of acquiescence as he witnesses Bulger strangle his teenage prostitute step daughter. 'Clean up your own mess,' Bulger tells him, and Flemmi silently bends and strokes the dead girl's knee. Rarely has a character with so few lines delivered so much.
So all in all, a fabulous film, right up there with Goodfellas or Mesrine or American Gangster as a classic true-life gangster pic. Don't miss it.


text:
10 Steps to Pick the Right Doctor
Whether you need a primary care doctor or a specialist, these 10 steps will ensure you find the right doctor for you. View Slideshow
Dr. Kalischer's Experience
- Cardiology
Board Certifications
- Cardiovascular Disease
- Internal Medicine
- Cardiac Catheterization (incl. Coronary Angiography)
- Cardiac Electrophysiology
- Cardiac Imaging
- Cardiac Myocardial Perfusion Imaging
- Cardioversion, Elective
- Cardioverter-Defibrillator or Pacemaker Insertion, Removal or Repair
- Chest CT (incl. Heart and Lungs)
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Medical School
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Internship Hospital
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Fellowship Hospital
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Languages Spoken by Dr. Kalischer & Staff
- English
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subset: commoncrawl


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05.29.2016 | 21 Iyar, 5776
Authorities to drill massive rocket attack this week
Abbas asks for NATO to replace IDF in West Bank as part of peace deal
Report: Hezbollah digging tunnels, placing rockets on border for next conflict with Israel
Funeral held for terrorist killed in Hebron shooting
'We are building the Democratic Camp'
J'lem aims to finish off Hapoel in Game 4 in Tel Aviv
Film on Eritrean killed when mistaken for terrorist wins at Docaviv festival
ANALYSIS: The plot to replace Netanyahu
Netanyahu's government may be near collapse, report says
Poll: Party led by Kahlon, Ya'alon, and Sa'ar could topple Netanyahu
Comedy for Koby to give Israelis comic therapy
Rocket Man rocks Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv documentary festival announces film winners
Mac TA, Eilat into Final Four; Jerusalem closing in
Morocco refuse to play Israel in wheelchair tennis World Cup
Disappointing denouement for Mac TA
The soldier who fired a defense minister
Jerusalem Post Letters to the Editor: Cementing the Right
Jerusalem Post Editorial: Insecurity checks
'Why are all the traitors coming from the Left?'
Khameini warns new Iranian parliament against Western 'schemes'
Forbidden felines: Saudi cleric declares selfies with cats 'un-Islamic'
Report: Israel and Arab states discuss new Palestinian leader to succeed Abbas
IAEA: Iran's uranium stockpile stays within limit set by nuclear deal
US pro-gun lobby to 'Ayatollahs of Iran': You haven't met alligator wrestlers, cowboys of America
Senior Iranian official: Secret, second wife of Iran's FM 'spied for the West'
Too hot for Tehran: Glam couple flee Iran after model photos deemed 'un-Islamic'
ISIS plans to ignite ethnic war in Fallujah upon leaving the city, document allegedly reveals
Analysis: Islamic State may be down, but it's far from out
US prosecutors move to unseal case of Ivy League student who defected from ISIS
Australia holds five suspected of plotting sailing trip to join ISIS
LA gala raises funds for IAF foundation
Birthright invades Tel Aviv for Sweet 16
'Post' investigation finds German city's facilities used to wage BDS
Former London mayor Ken Livingstone fired from radio show following Hitler comments
New worlds: Simulation on microchip offers insight into dynamics of cellular function
Without research, there is no medicine
Surprise! Anti-BDS gift box coming straight to your front door
Research shows exposure to dirty air may raise risk of heart disease
Most medical marijuana users benefit from treatment, finds Ben-Gurion University study
'Smart park' coming to capital's Sacher Park
Analysis stage begins at latest Golan drilling site
Green tech at the forefront of talks on US-Israel collaboration
Israel faces lack of enforcement of environmental policies, says report
'Smart car' tech to get boost from US-Israel collaboration
Tech Talk: Student hackathons are the new rage
Tech Talk: CES Asia 2016
Tech can't thrive without women, says Israeli-born Oracle CEO
NY Times editor calls out Trump for ignoring supporters' anti-Semitic tweets
Who needs Hillary? Trump, Sanders mull televised debate
Sanders' pro-Palestine backers could spark uproar at Dem convention
Jewish leaders push to get two-state solution proposal on next president's desk
Captain America revealed as a secret Nazi in new comic
The personal account of a Canadian lawyer hiking the Israel National Trail
Grapevine: Loving the city
Star Catcher: Astrology for the week of May 27, 2016
Podcast: The mystery of Tel Aviv's Jane Doe alleys
Briefing: Liberman, Trump and fascism
Podcast: A stable Israeli government? Fat chance
Grapevine: Animal husbandry
Employees send their boss on a special vacation
WATCH: Kittens are the best audience
WATCH: 6ft Balloon Bursts in Slow Motion
22 Photographs where time really stood still
'In the navy'
On the 50th anniversary of Agnon's Nobel Prize
Books: Blood diamonds
The forgotten casualties
The good news and the bad
Homage to Anne
Necessary Stories: The plowman meets the reaper
Artist of patterns
Veterans: Reaching one's full potential
Books: Unlikely characters
Books: Totally certifiable
Books: Beauty and boredom of war
An African night in Jerusalem
In your footsteps, Orwell
This week in Jerusalem
Always look on the bright side of yourself
The long and winding road
From chaos to creation
An oddly individual thing – handwriting
Agriculture is having a (vertical) field day
שְתוּ הָעֲדָרִים
אַלְמָז פּוֹסַעַת בִּשְבִילֵי יַלְדוּתָה
סְטֶנְד-אַפּ שֶל רוֹתֶם אַבּוּהָב
יְהוּדֵי תֵימָן
The Christian Edition- one month free subscription
Christian leaders seek insight into Israeli-Palestinian conflict
Protectors of the Holy Land
Digging with the Bible
Green Journey – Cycling on the Trails of the Living
Remembering Isaac Ochberg
Czech prime minister plants tree in Jerusalem grove of nations
Dado Scenic Lookout Dedicated on Israel's Northern Border
Golani Soldiers Clean up the Forests of Northern Israel
Greek President Plants Olive Tree in Jerusalem Grove of Nations
Italian Environment Minister Discovers Negev Agriculture
Kenyan President Plants an Olive Tree in Jerusalem
Hugging a Tree? Beware of the Pine Processionary Caterpillar!
UN World Water Day 2016: Better Water, Better Jobs
International Forest Day 2016: Saying Thank You to the Trees
US Forestry Service Shares Remote Sensing Tech with Israel
KKL-JNF and The Italian State Forestry Corps Sign a Memorandum
JNF USA & Alexander Muss High School in Israel
Both Receive Charity Navigator's Highest Rating
First-Ever Birthright Israel Trip for Jewish Law Enforcement Announced
90 Year-old Giuditta Matalon Embraces the Children of Israel
Peonies and Pineapples in the Negev Desert
An Interview with Israel Prize Winner Prof. Yossi Katz
Arava Open Day 2016
The Acacia Tree Stars in the Arava Ecosystem
The Burqa-wearing Trojan Horse
A Second Daniel; A Tudor Intrigue by Neal Roberts
Jewish history and demography
"Fascism is looming over the US…" a response to Dr. Laitman
Diplomacy & Politics
01/19/2013 21:53
French soldiers heading to Mali, January 2013..
(photo credit:Reuters)
Mali, for most Israelis, is far, far away, and the dramatic events unfolding
there do not really have much of an impact on life here – especially in the heat
of an election campaign.With Likud Beytenu throwing mud at Bayit Yehudi,
and former foreign minister Tzipi Livni trashing Labor leader Shelly Yacimovich,
who has time to follow reports of the bold French intervention in Mali to stem
Islamic jihadists from taking over the northern part of that country in western
Africa? And yet we should take note, and not only because keeping al-Qaida
affiliates from gaining a base anywhere on the globe is in Israel's interests,
as it is in the interest of the rest of the world. We should take note because
the French activity there – fighting Muslims in another far-flung corner of the
globe – will likely give Paris yet another reason, yet more motivation, to push
hard on the Israeli-Palestinian issue.The French, now facing real
threats from Islamic radicals to extract vengeance on their nationals wherever
they are because of the Mali operation, will want to prove their bona fides;
they will want to show the Islamic world that they have nothing against Muslims.
And what better way for Paris to show the Muslim world that it really has
nothing against it – that it is only fighting radical Islamic global jihadists –
than to champion the Palestinian cause.
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More Shake, Rattle And Roll in New Zealand
22 Julposted by Tony M
Categories: New Zealand, Strange News, Tourism News, Travel
Tags: earthquake, new Zealand, Volcano
Comments: 12
And now we have some more good news to share with you in the land of Hobbits and Middle Earth.
Scientists have raised the Volcano Alert Level at Mt Tongariro after a series of quakes beneath the volcanic complex. GeoNet said typically Tongariro experienced two such quakes – magnitude 2.5 or less – a year, but there had been more than 20 since July 13.
In a Volcanic Alert Bulletin issued this afternoon, it said the sequence started on July 13 and declined for a period, before restarting on July 18 and increasing in number yesterday.These earthquakes are small (magnitudes <2.5) and have only been well recorded by a few of the seismometers in our permanent network. The earthquakes cluster in a zone between Emerald Crater and the Te Mari craters at 2-7km depth. Tongariro is a massive complex of volcanic cones and craters formed by eruptions from at least 12 vents over more than 275,000 years ago. GNS Science volcanologist Brad Scott said the increased activity "just means that something has upset Tongariro, and some subterranean process is occurring". That's all very nice to hear but we have a fault line right through the country and underneath this volcano.....
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Ozzy Osbourne to Donate His Body to Science
Rocker Ozzy Osbourne wants to donate his body to science, insisting it's a "medical miracle" he's still alive after years of partying hard. The Black Sabbath star is baffled he has managed to survive to the age of 61 and is convinced doctors and scientists would benefit from dissecting and studying his body after he dies.
He says, "By all accounts, I'm a medical miracle. When I die, I should donate my body to the Natural History Museum. It's all very well going on a bender for a couple of days but mine went on for 40 years. At one point, I was knocking back four bottles of cognac a day, blacking out, coming to again and carrying on."
The "Dreamer" hitmaker has struggled with an addiction to alcohol and prescription drugs, and was hospitalized with severe injuries after he was involved in a quad bike accident in 2003. But he admits he has always had concerns about his health: "I happen to be the world's worst hypochondriac. I will catch a disease off the telly (TV). Being ill is like a hobby. I've even started to diagnose my own diseases, thanks to Google."
More Ozzy Osbourne News
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- Is Olivia Culpo Dating Danny Amendola? Here's the Proof
- Brad Pitt Reportedly Worries About 'Anorexic' and 'Fragile' Angelina Jolie
- Dan Aykroyd on Why 'Ghostbusters' Reboot Is Worth Watching: It Has More Laughs and More Scares
- Gwen Stefani Releases Fashionable 'Misery' Music Video
- Harambe the Gorilla Shooting Sparks Outrage Among Hollywood Stars
- Brooklyn Beckham Flaunting His Abs in This Shirtless Selfie Will Make You Drool
- 'Game of Thrones': George R. R. Martin Reveals Brienne's Backstory


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Jubilation Day video from Steve Martin
Steve Martin has released a music video for the song Jubilation Day, one of several comic songs on his new album, Rare Bird Alert, produced as a collaborative project with Steep Canyon Rangers.
It was shot during the early touring in support of the new CD in March, mixing live stage footage and backstage shots.
The song tells the story of an ugly romance, from the perspective of the abused former lover.
John Lawless
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Erik Skoglund To Assist Mikkel Kessler For Carl Froch
by Per Ake Persson
Light heavyweight Erik Skoglund, 16-0 and newly crowned WBC Youth champion, is heading for Copenhagen on Sunday for two weeks of sparring with WBA regular super middleweight king Mikkel Kessler, who is in final preparations for the showdown against Carl Froch on May 25 in London.
Skoglund´s next fight is scheduled for June 15 in Aarhus, Denmark against an opponent to be announced.
User Comments and Feedback (Register For Free To Comment) Comment by John Åge on 05-03-2013
Skoglund is really a talent to watch out for. In his last fight he defeated Luke Blackledge who stopped Mads Larsen in 2012.Post a Comment/View More User Comments (1)
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Hello, I've been hoping to take my children to Italy, just as my parents took me when I was a young teen. Well DD#1 is now 17, and coincidentally it's my 50th birthday -- so although I first thought we should wait til next year (since DH's self-employment status has not yet reached earning status) -- I have decided it's better to seize the moment. Thus, I've been looking at accommodations and think I can put this together in 6 months (fingers crossed for decent airfares!). We are fit, adventurous travelers, although as I type this, I'm wondering if it is too ambitious, especially since we have never driven in outside the U.S. Please tell me if this seems manageable.
-Fly Philadelphia to Venice - arrive a.m.
-Venice - Rialto apartment (3 nts)
>>>Train to Cinque Terre area (6 hours - is this a scenic journey?)
Cinque Terre -- Manarola apartment or Levanto B&B (4 nts)
>>>Rent car (in La Spezia? or train to Florence and rent there?) to drive to Tuscany
-Tuscany -Montepulciano or Pienza (4 nts)
>>>return car to XXX and take train to Rome
-Rome (4 nts)
>>>day trip to Pompeii via train or bustrip
-Fly Rome to Philadelphia
I'm still putting this together, so any thoughts are welcome!!
Thank you!
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My 50th birthday trip (with teens) to Italy - please critique!
Hello, I've been hoping to take my children to Italy, just as my parents took me when I was a young teen. Well DD#1 is now 17, and coincidentally it's my 50th birthday -- so although I first thought we should wait til next year (since DH's self-employment status has not yet reached earning status) -- I have decided it's better to seize the moment. Thus, I've been looking at accommodations and think I can put this together in 6 months (fingers crossed for decent airfares!). We are fit, adventurous travelers, although as I type this, I'm wondering if it is too ambitious, especially since we have never driven in outside the U.S. Please tell me if this seems manageable.
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Just 2 quick thoughts:
1. Take 1 day from CT and add it to Rome.
2. Drop the car in Orvieto and train to Rome from there.
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Too many days in CT, three nights will give you two full days to complete the hike from town to town. From driving that route, I don't remember anything too scenic about the trip. Add that day to Rome or Venice.
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We did a trip similar to yours a few years ago when my kids were your kids' ages and they were bored to tears in beautiful Tuscany. Also didn't really care for Cinque Terre, but my mistake was planning it mid-summer when it was very crowded and hot.
IF you want to keep your original itinerary though, I'd skip Cinque Terre, and train from Venice to Florence, which will take just under 3 hours. Spend a night or two in Florence with a side trip to Pisa ( kids will love seeing it up close, even though it's tourist central.)
You could also arrange a bus trip to one of the medieval hill towns.
Then pick up a car and drive to Tuscany.
Drop the car, train from Florence to Rome ( about an hour and a half on the Eurostar).
About Pompeii: It's an exhausting side trip from Rome. The drive there and back is around 6 hours.
IF you would consider a totally different itinerary, I'd highly recommend flying Venice-Naples, then spending some time in Naples, Sorrento, and the AMalfi Coast.
Of all the trips we've taken to Italy ( and we've taken quite a few) this was the favorite one for our family.
To get back to Rome, you simply take the fast train from Naples ( only 90 minutes). It's very easy.
This was/is the favorite Italian trip for our family. Kids are now 24 and 21, and they still
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Sorry that my post got cut-off! Lastly, if you are going to Italy in the summer months, try to plan and book your trip as soon as you can. Planes/hotels get booked months ahead.
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Wow, thank you for the quick replies. I appreciate the ideas to shorten the Cinque Terre leg...and will look into the Venice Naples Sorrento Amalfi Coast itinerary. When I was 13ish, my parents dragged us through France and Italy with a eurailpass and no plans for accommodations anywhere until we got to the city, bags in tow. It was a strangely wonderful trip that I still remember -- and Pompeii and Pisa (and Venice and of course Rome) were my favorite memories from that trip; we went to Napoli but I don't remember it.
I'm planning this for June, if it works out. I've found nice apartments (or hotels w/ family rooms) in each locale still available, with budget in mind, but realize I need to reserve quick.
But flights are still so high for that time, and the thought of waiting til one month before to buy tickets (for the best prices) is nerve wracking. Right now June flights are $1400 open jaw (PHL-VCE, FCO-PHL) -- but end of Feb flights are just under $1000... Any idea whether waiting til May will be too late for June flights?
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I'm also planning a BIG birthday. (I just can't get myself to write out those two symbols yet. ) Husband is suggesting Paris, I am kind of leaning Italy but I wish I knew where to go as nothing is really sticking out as THE PLACE!
Enjoy YOUR trip and happy planning!
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Don't wait until May! You may find little or no availability for your dates. There used to be fare sales sometimes in mid-late winter, but I think those are a thing of the past. Unfortunately, $1400 per person is about right for the summer months. Leaving and returning midweek is sometimes a few dollars cheaper per person.
February is off-season for Europe. That's why you're seeing lower fares right now.
A final note about Pompeii: It's only 30 minutes from Sorrento on the local train, or about 20 minutes by car from Naples, though you might want to take a taxi since the driving there is pretty crazy!
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Pompeii is interesting but Ostia Antica is much closer to Rome, more to see, and easier to get to for a day trip. I've been to both and highly recommend Ostia Antica. I downloaded a podcast from Rick Steves that directed me around and I had a fabulous time, including a stop for lunch at their cafe.
You'll definitely want to add a day to Rome. My favorite city
There are free walking tours of the historic district that leave every evening from the Keats/Shelley house at the bottom of the Spanish Steps.
Book a tour guide for the Roman Forum otherwise it's a confusing mess of ruins. Beautiful but confusing.
I did a day bus trip from Florence to Siena and San Gimignano. Much better than driving. Got to see the countryside as we drove and had time for lunch in Siena before continuing to San G.
There are similar day trips to Pisa, wine tours, vespa drives thru Tuscany, etc. It's easier to unpack and stay in one place and do day trips than to keep packing up and changing hotels.
Get a video or guide book and ask your kids what they'd like to see.
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$1400 is good for June. If the flights are what you want, I'd grab them. Sometimes there are sales in late winter, but it's rare to snag a deal any later than that--and it's rare to get much less for Italy anyway. In addition to monitoring flights on Kayak, I check every airline that flies from my airport individually--sometimes sales pop up on their websites that will not appear on a consolidator website. good luck!
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I just want to emphasize my agreement with two suggestions already made:
1) Transfer a day from the Cinque Terre to Rome.
2) Substitute Ostia Antica for Pompeii for your "day trip" from Rome. Easy, simple, cheap, wonderful.
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Try this link for evaluating your flight costs:
The train ride from Venice to the Riviera is not scenic.
I'm a little concerned about your Rialto apartment location in summer. That immediate area can get slammed with daytripping tourists, day after day, and of course the venues around there are more "touristy" with souvenir shops and tourist restaurants. If the apartment is just idea for your family, don't sweat it. But Venice is so small, you don't need a famous location, and it can be a relief to have a quieter corner with a cheap cafe.
Hard to know if your kids will adore le Cinque Terre, tourists and all. Many kids do, especially because they get to swim. If your kids are happy camper hikers, sounds like a good bet. If they are more swimmers, and grumble carrying luggage up hot hillsides, check out Levanto (right next door) as a really fun town with an extensive beach.
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Posted 3/26/2013 at 4:32 PM by CHRISTINE
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He is an amazing dog!!! He is a 5 year old hound mix with a great temperament! He would be great with a family as he loves everyone he meets and he enjoys being around other dogs. He settles nicely on a dog bed and just loves any and all attention he can get.
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