text:
R-Pi Troubleshooting
Back to the Hub.
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.
See RPi_Bugs for problems that are bugs.
- 1 Power / Start-up
- 1.1 Normal LED status
- 1.2 Red power LED does not light, nothing on display
- 1.3 Red power LED is blinking
- 1.4 Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display
- 1.5 Green LED blinks in a specific pattern
- 1.6 Coloured splash screen
- 1.7 Kernel Panic on boot
- 1.8 Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up
- 1.9 Pi boots sometimes but not always
- 2 Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices / Webcams
- 2.1 R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses
- 2.2 Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device
- 2.3 Wireless Keyboard trouble
- 2.4 Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze
- 2.5 Slow keyboard mapping
- 2.6 No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB
- 2.7 Webcam
- 3 Updating firmware
- 4 SD cards
- 5 Networking
- 5.1 Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in
- 5.2 Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M
- 5.3 Cannot ssh in to Pi
- 5.4 Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch
- 5.5 Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis
- 5.6 Crashes occur with high network load
- 5.7 Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used
- 6 Passwords
- 7 Sound
- 8 Display
- 8.1 Startx fails to start
- 8.2 Screen is the wrong color
- 8.3 Video does not play or plays very slowly
- 8.4 Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)
- 8.5 Big black borders around small image on HD monitors
- 8.6 Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors
- 8.7 Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor
- 8.8 No HDMI output at all
- 8.9 Composite displays no image
- 8.10 Composite displays only black and white image
- 8.11 HDMI -> VGA adapters
- 10 General
- 11 Troubleshooting power problems
- 12 Hardware versions/revisions
- 13 References
Power / Start-up
Note: if you have any kind of booting problems, start off by reading the "Is your Pi not booting? (The Boot Problems Sticky)" in the troubleshooting section of the Official Raspberry PI forum [1].
A good power supply that will supply 5 volts and at least 1 amp (5V 1A) is vital. A 5 volt 2 amp power supply can help some wifi USB adapters run more stable. For more information see #Troubleshooting_power_problems.
Note that the Pi has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the Pi successfully boots!
Normal LED status
There are five LEDS near the USB connector.
LED | colour | function | normal status |
ACT | green | card status | flashing during SD card activity |
PWR | red | power | steady ON when Pi receives some power on original B and A, but since the B+ (except for the zero) the PWR LED is also a power good indicator that goes off when power drops below 4.65V |
FDX | orange | full duplex | on when Ethernet connection is full duplex |
LNK | orange | link | on when Ethernet is connected |
100 | orange | 100 Mbps | on when connection is 100 Mbps off when 10 Mbps |
See the next sections for how to interpret other statuses.
Red power LED does not light, nothing on display
The power is not properly connected.
Red power LED is blinking
A blinking red power LED indicates problems with the power supply. On model A and B, it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported[1] it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.
On model B+ (and presumably also the A+), the circuit has been improved to give a much more reliable warning of poor power quality. The red power LED is wired to an APX803 supervisor[2] which kicks in when the 5V power supply drops below 4.63V[3]. If it does, the LED will blink. Check your connections, cable, and power supply.
Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display
Start off by reading the "Is your Pi not booting? (The Boot Problems Sticky)" in the troubleshooting section of the Official Raspberry PI forum [2] it contains the latest info about "Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash" kind of problems. Note: A faintly glowing steady green LED means no boot code has ever been executed, as almost the first thing the boot code does is to turn the faint glow off! When flashing/blinking the green LED should be as bright as the red LED.
Note also there is a difference between the quad core Pi 2 (BCM2836) and the other models if there is no SD card inserted, or the SD card is improperly formatted. The former will have both red and green lights on bright and steady. The latter will have only the red light on. This indicates:
- The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Turn the board over to check that the card is inserted correctly; the insertion force is much larger than for some laptops.
- Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card by using a MAC or PC and browse for the following files:
- bootcode.bin
- fixup.dat
- start.elf amongst others
- Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything!
- Older images do not load boot code for revB boards with the Hynix chip. Use release 2013-02-09 (?) or later. (I observe a single blip on the green activity LED)
- It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with a checksum utility to verify the integrity of the download.
- Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card by using a MAC or PC and browse for the following files:
- The SD card may itself have an issue. See Known SD Cards.
- Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.
- Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.
- Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. Media:SDcardHolder.JPG, Media:UnclipContact.JPG, Media:UnclippedContact.JPG
- Ensure that when your SD Card is fully inserted that the longer metal spring contacts (one clearly visible on the end of the slot, and one hidden in the side nearest the power connector) are closed. These are used to detect the presence of an SD Card therefore if no contact is made then the Raspberry Pi won't attempt to access the the card.
- Check carefully for any cracks or damage to the SD Card slot, if the sides are damaged then the card may not be making proper contact with the pins (can usually confirm this if your Raspberry Pi boots if you manually hold the SD Card in position). For ways to resolve this, see PiHardware - SD Card slot fixes for more info.
- The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, #Troubleshooting_power_problems.
- (unlikely) hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin[4] or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces[5].
- If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read #Troubleshooting_power_problems.
- Some problems have been reported if the ambient temperature is low that might be related to micro-fractures, fissures in solder or other issues. Try warming the Raspberry Pi with a hair dryer for just a few seconds (do not use excessive heat or you may cause irreversible damage!) and reconnect the power. Check this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwF6v-4NFdg
Green LED blinks in a specific pattern
- 1 flash: possibly you have a Rpi from Micron. Take a good look at the processor if it says M with an orbit around it. Using the lastest software ( >= sept 2013 ) will solve your problem. And make sure you have a 4Gb SD card: a 2Gb doesn't work.
- 2 flashes: The SD Card cannot be read.
Solution : Format card and flash Raspbian with Pi Installer from Terminal.
- SD Formatter (Mac + Win)
- Pi SD Installer by RayViljoen: https://github.com/RayViljoen/Raspberry-PI-SD-Installer-OS-X
According to this forum post the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:
- 3 flashes: loader.bin not found
- 4 flashes: loader.bin not launched
- 5 flashes: start.elf not found
- 6 flashes: start.elf not launched
- 7 flashes: kernel.img not found
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:
- 3 flashes: start.elf not found
- 4 flashes: start.elf not launched
- 7 flashes: kernel.img not found
- 8 flashes: SDRAM not recognised. You need newer bootcode.bin/start.elf firmware.
If start.elf won't launch, it may be corrupt.
Note that 4-flashes may point to a defective SD-card holder, if one or more of the data contacts is intermittent it can lead to this problem.
Coloured splash screen
With current firmware, a coloured splash screen (actually its just four pixels "blown up" by the GPU to full screen) is displayed after GPU firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later. However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current. If the PI resets at that moment, it is an indication that the power supply isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.
In some cases (Stuck on the Rainbow Screen), freezing at this point has been fixed by adding "boot_delay=1" to the config.txt file. This can be done from a Windows PC, which should show several files in the FAT partition on your SD card including bootcode.bin, kernel.img, and config.txt. You can open config.txt in wordpad or any text editor. Add "boot_delay=1" and save the file. Don't forget to 'eject' the card before removing it from the reader. If you are reading the SD card from a working Pi, you can edit the file with sudo nano /boot/config.txt
Kernel Panic on boot
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. Try again with nothing in the USB.
Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See #Troubleshooting_power_problems.
Pi boots sometimes but not always
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times[6] [7] [8] and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail[9]. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C[10]. The wiki has a list of working SD cards. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been claimed that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.
- It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine, but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. Variations happen due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity, restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself, but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate, so be careful. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Refer to these photos: Media:SDcardHolder.JPG, Media:UnclipContact.JPG, Media:UnclippedContact.JPG
Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices / Webcams
R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses
note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)). Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman reported some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until upgrading to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low TP1-TP2 voltage of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)
As a workaround you can use programs kbdrate and xset to tune the keyboard repeat rate:
kbdrate -r 2.0 -d 1000
on the console and
xset -r
on the desktop (xset is available with: sudo apt-get install x11-xserver-utils)
Sticky keys
Many wireless keyboards are known to have "sticky keys" on the R-Pi. Work has recently (summer 2013) been done on the USB code. Updating to a recent firmware might help. Updating the firmware can be done with rpi-update. Recent Raspbian releases comes with rpi-update installed.
sudo rpi-update
Note that the firware sits on the SD card, so each card, not R-Pi has to be updated.
Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix[11] relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig[12][13] reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.
My experience regarding this issue point to interferences in the 2.4 GHz frequency band in which both WiFi sticks, as well as USB keyboards transmit data. Changing the channel on the wireless access point fixed the problem completely. In my case (Belkin N150 + Logitech K260/M210) I switched from channel 1 to channel 13, which results in a frequency shift of 50 MHz. Possibly enough to not affect the keyboard/mouse receiver.
Wireless Keyboard trouble
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail[14] even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.
Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.
From the command line type:
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard
Then find where it says
and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [3]
Slow keyboard mapping
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:
sudo setupcon
No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB
There has been more than one report[15][16][17] of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is low power supply voltage from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board. Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of USB keyboards are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported[18] that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.
sudo apt-get install guvcview
Use the excellent guvcview program to test your webcam and to change the capture settings. You can improve the frame rate to a great extent by changing the settings.
hub or internal usb
It is possible that your camera will only work on an internal usb port and not on the hub.
If you are experiencing freezes or timeout errors while using a webcam this script may help:
#!/bin/bash sudo rmmod uvcvideo sudo modprobe uvcvideo nodrop=1 timeout=5000 quirks=0x80
(quirks=0x80 is a bandwidth quirk, the necessary bandwidth will be estimated by the uvcvideo driver instead of using the one proposed by the camera)
Updating firmware
Check your firmware version
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:
uname -a Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux
And the GPU firmware with:
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version May 31 2012 13:35:03 Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom version 317494 (release)
Get the latest firmware version
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with Hexxeh's rpi-update tool.
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate. If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode. Use this to download rpi-update:
curl -L --output rpi-update https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update/master/rpi-update && sudo chmod +x rpi-update
and this to run it:
sudo ROOT_PATH=/PATH/TO/RASPI/ROOT BOOT_PATH=/PATH/TO/RASPI/BOOT/PARTITION rpi-update
Make sure to substitute in the paths to the root and BOOT partitions on your SD card (likely something like /media/USER/root and /media/USER/BOOT), or it will install it on your linux machine! If you do this by accident, wait until the tool finishes, then delete /boot and move /boot.bak to /boot
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. You can download the latest GPU firmware version here. Click on view raw, then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is here. After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).
If you are still having issues after update, you could also try the bleeding edge firmware by using the BRANCH=next option in rpi-update. If you are seeing SD card corruption after updating follow the SD Card/Power supply investigation steps. Firmware updates can be I/O intensive and reveal other issues.
Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible. gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default. gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.
SD cards
- If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)
- Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the list of known SD cards.
- If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.
- Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/
- Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.
- After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including start.elf and kernel.img. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.
- If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the dd command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. /dev/sdd) and not to an existing partition (e.g. /dev/sdd1).
- If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over here.
- If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dislodge anything. You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.
SD(DC|DX] Card Class 6 & 10 Hints
[card usage Hints with OverClocking ]
Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).
Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled on the rev 1.0 PC board. It is correctly labeled "100" on the rev 2.0 PC board. When that LED is on, RasPi is connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with:
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed
Cannot ssh in to Pi
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named boot_enable_ssh.rc that enables ssh. So:
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)
Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.
The LAN9512 data sheet in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento (Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.) The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.
Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.
Crashes occur with high network load
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. (Crashes with high network load can also be related to your power supply, try a powered usb hub.) You should have a line like:
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384. If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.
Under special circumstates additional /boot/cmdline.txt options are helpful (for example using RPi as Wifi Access-Point with high Network Traffic):
dwc_otg.dma_enable=1 dwc_otg.dma_burst_size=256
If the above fixes do not work, you can prevent the crashes by limiting the bandwidth (This is also working sometimes if the crashes are related to power supply.):
wondershaper wlan0 1500 1500
This bandwidth (~150k/s) is enough to stream video with flvstreamer and omxplayer.
(wondershaper is available in raspian: sudo apt-get install wondershaper. You could also test limiting the bandwidth in advance with wget --limit-rate=150)
Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware
I do not know the password to login
Please check the page http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads for the correct username and password for each image.
Here are the most common username/password combinations:
- Raspian "wheezy" pi/raspberry
- Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry
- Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse
- Arch: root/root
- Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux
- Raspbx:root/raspberry
- Kali Linux: root/toor
Some programs refuse to accept my password
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.
I don't know the root password
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.
Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at R-Pi_ConfigurationFile.
Add the following line to the configuration file /boot/config.txt:
This will force it to select HDMI mode.
You might need as well:
hdmi_force_hotplug=1 hdmi_force_edid_audio=1
More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:
/opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio/hello_audio.bin 1
but not:
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. For example
speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [4]
No sound card present
If no sound is being produced, and alsamixer is unable to show you any controls, the GPU may have disabled audio. Run this command to check:
amixer controls
Which responds:
amixer: Control default open error: No such file or directory
You can also confirm by checking for the existence of the directory '/proc/asound'.
This issue can be experienced when upgrading the kernel, due to changes in how the device tree defaulting has changed.
To correct this, assuming the device tree is enabled, add the following to '/boot/config.txt':
This can be unused along with other 'dtparam' settings, on the same line or different lines. Reboot, then check the amixer command again.
Sound does not work at all, or in some applications
Enter the command 'alsamixer' and use the control to check that the volume is up (arrow keys) and that the output is not muted (M key).
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To install support for sound, type the following from a command line (from the command prompt before "startx" or in a terminal window)
sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get upgrade sudo apt-get install alsa-utils sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled by default, so the 'modprobe' step is not necessary. Next try:
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:
amixer cset numid=3 <n>
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.
If you have pulseaudio installed you need to also specify the card number:
amixer -c 0 cset numid=3 <n>
You can immediately verify if you hear a 440 Hz tune:
speaker-test -t sine -f 440 -c 2 -s 1
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/ ./rebuild.sh cd hello_audio
With older firmware
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio make
to test analogue output:
./hello_audio.bin 1
to test HDMI.
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.
Following this setup, you should be able to play wav files with the command
aplay /usr/share/scratch/Media/Sounds/Animal/Kitten.wav
Other command features can be found with
aplay --help
You will find numerous test files under /usr/share/scratch/Media/Sounds/ .
Removal of installed pulseaudio
Between December 2012 and February 2013 the standard raspbian wheezy distribution, and apt-get upgrade, included pulseaudio. Forum posts suggest that pulseaudio can break alsa. Whilst some members identify various workarounds, others find only removal of pulseaudio restores sound output.
sudo apt-get --purge remove pulseaudio
Playing MP3 files
The alsa app included in the standard distribution plays wav files. If you want to play mp3 files, do the following to install an mp3 player (after installing alsa-utils):
sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get upgrade sudo apt-get install mpg321
You can play mp3 files with the command
mpg321 "my file.mp3"
Other command options can be determined with
mpg321 --help
The mp3 support with this app is complete but not robust.
Startx fails to start
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to this thread. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.
Screen is the wrong color
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try this section.
Video does not play or plays very slowly
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the XBMC distribution and its command line variant omxplayer. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.
Notwithstanding the previous paragraph, omxplayer may be included in some versions of raspbian. It is a command line tool, and happily plays .flv files. Command: sudo omxplayer -o hdmi <path-to-filename>
Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt
Big black borders around small image on HD monitors
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan on the TV/monitor. Check the display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at R-Pi_ConfigurationFile.
Add the following lines to the configuration file...
If your display has no overscan:
or if your display has some overscan:
overscan_left=-20 overscan_right=-20 overscan_top=-20 overscan_bottom=-20
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.
This only affects the framebuffer (e.g. console or X). It doesn't affect hardware layers (like video/3D). You can make it apply to hardware layers with:
Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example
overscan_left=20 overscan_right=20 overscan_top=20 overscan_bottom=20
Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.
Edit the configuration file; see the instructions at Raspberry Pi configuration file.
Add the following line to the configuration file
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. The default is 2 for Pi1 model A/B, and 5 for newer Pi's (B+, Pi2, Pi3). At your own risk, you can go up to 11.
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See Troubleshooting Power Problems.
No HDMI output at all
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi. If you have a case remove it as it can prevent your HDMI cable to properly connect to the HDMI port.
If you have the Rasbian Wheezy image (recommended) then try
Which will force the PI to boot in "safe mode".
For a quicker way to force wheezy into booting in safe mode, which doesn't need editing config.sys, you can also try to boot while holding the GPIO header P1-pin-5 (GPIO 1, SCL) low. This pin is normally held high with a pullup, but if you place a jumper between pin 5, (GPIO 1) and pin 6, (GND) of the GPIO header it will force the PI to boot in safe mode, which will force a 640x480 VGA screen mode, which any HDMI device should be able to display. Be very careful not to connect any other pins, especially not pins 1 and 2 (3V3 and 5V) as doing so, with power on, will damage your PI!
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:
A similar problem has occured following the installation of Rasbian Wheezy image "2013-02-09-wheezy-raspbian" - the hotplug signal appeared to be no longer detected when a HDMI 3 Port Switcher was in use for the Pi running from that image. An older, but updated and upgraded image still worked, as did a similar image on the other Pi connected to the switch, but, unless the above override was implemented, the Pi with the new image would only provide a HDMI display when directly connected to the monitor. The same problem has re-occurred when using that wheezy image with a new (in March 2013) "Model A" Pi.
Also try the following video options:
hdmi_group=2 hdmi_mode=4
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See Troubleshooting Power Problems.
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at Wikipedia.
Composite displays no image
The output display should default to HDMI if an HDMI display is connected, and composite if not (the composite output is the yellow RCA phono connector). At boot time, the Pi tries to detect an HDMI cable. If it cannot detect an HDMI cable it defaults to using composite output. Therefore, make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output. Also, the Pi will only auto-detect once, at boot-time. If you want to switch from HDMI to Composite or back you need to reboot (or know the appropriate command-line magic).
If you expected to get composite output and you do not, the problem is either with the Pi output, with the cable or with the TV/monitor. Here are some things to try
- Are you using the NOOBS GUI for OS installation and selection? On the first boot, i.e. when installing, you can hold 3 (PAL) or 4 (NTSC) while booting to force composite. If you install with HDMI and later want to change, alternately press SHIFT then 3 or 4 while booting: SHIFT takes you to the install screen, where 3 and 4 are recognized. You can then choose whether to make the change permanent, and press Esc to go back to the OS selection screen.
- Is the Pi configuration forcing HDMI output? Inspect the file "config.txt" in the boot partition of your memory card and look for the line "hdmi_force_hotplug=1". If you see this line, comment it out (in particular, look at the end of "config.txt", in the section entitled "NOOBS Auto-generated Settings:")
- Is the cable connection ok? If you're using a cable with red/white/yellow phonos on each end, make sure you're plugging in the yellow at both ends, and make sure it is pushed home fully into the socket. Try using (e.g.) the white connectors at each end, instead.
- Are you using the correct connection on the TV/monitor? You need to be using a composite input, which will usually be a yellow RCA phono connector. This is NOT the same as the (RF modulated) antenna connection. If your TV has a SCART input you can buy a SCART Composite adaptor that has a set of RCA phono connectors. If you're already using one of those connectors, make sure that the switch on it is set to IN.
- Have you selected the correct input on the TV/Monitor? It's normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control. If you have other things connected to the TV AV inputs they may have a higher "priority" in. Try disconnecting them.
- Are you being impatient? It takes about 7s from power-up for the Pi to start driving the composite output. With everything wired up, and the correct source selected on the monitor, power up the Pi and start counting. After about 7s you may see a brief white flicker or flash on the screen. That is the Pi considering using the composite output and choosing not to. If you see this, the problem is probably in your config.txt
- Is everything good apart from the TV? One user suggested connecting the composite output to the audio input (red or white RCA phono) e.g. on a mini HiFi system. Keep the volume right down low. After power-up you should hear a couple of clicks. After about 7s you should hear a near-constant throbbing buzz, changing tone a couple of times after a few seconds (that's the desktop starting up, I think). If you power-cycle and then do the same thing with an HDMI cable connected (even with nothing connected at the far end of the HDMI cable) you should hear the clicks just after power-up and then no more sound.
- Is the Pi faulty? This is unlikely and you should consider it only as a last resort.
Composite displays only black and white image
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at R-Pi_ConfigurationFile.
Add the following line to the configuration file
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)
HDMI -> VGA adapters
Some good information can be found here:
- RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes
- (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: HERE --by Pinoccio
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are NOT 5V tolerant.
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.
If you think you have damaged one or more gpios you can carry out a diagnostic test.
The test is a bash (command line) script called gpiotest
The test requires the services of the pigpio library.
For the duration of the test nothing must be connected to the gpios (no LEDs, wires, ribbon cables etc.).
The test checks that each gpio may be read and written and that the internal resistor pull-ups and pull-downs are functional.
A video showing what happens to the gpios during a test.
A test with all gpios okay.
This program checks the Pi's (user) gpios. The program reads and writes all the gpios. Make sure NOTHING is connected to the gpios during this test. The program uses the pigpio daemon which must be running. To start the daemon use the command sudo pigpiod. Press the ENTER key to continue or ctrl-C to abort... Testing... Skipped non-user gpios: 0 1 28 29 30 31 Tested user gpios: 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Failed user gpios: None
A test showing failed gpios.
This program checks the Pi's (user) gpios. The program reads and writes all the gpios. Make sure NOTHING is connected to the gpios during this test. The program uses the pigpio daemon which must be running. To start the daemon use the command sudo pigpiod. Press the ENTER key to continue or ctrl-C to abort... Testing... Write 1 to gpio 17 failed. Pull up on gpio 17 failed. Write 1 to gpio 18 failed. Pull up on gpio 18 failed. Write 0 to gpio 23 failed. Pull down on gpio 23 failed. Write 0 to gpio 24 failed. Pull down on gpio 24 failed. Write 1 to gpio 27 failed. Pull up on gpio 27 failed. Skipped non-user gpios: 0 1 28 29 30 31 Tested user gpios: 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Failed user gpios: 17 18 23 24 27
Digital Waveform Viewer
A logic analyser or a digital waveform viewer is a very useful tool to diagnose problems with the gpios.
piscope is a digital waveform viewer which lets you see what is happening on the gpios in a live view.
A video of a capture session.
Some screen captures.
The time is incorrect
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.
A part broke off
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but as it turns out most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also discussed here.
Unable to install new software
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error
Package yyyy is not available
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the commands
sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get upgrade
Troubleshooting power problems
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board to facilitate voltage measurements.
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [basic instructions]
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.
If your voltage is low, it could be:
- The power supply produces too low a voltage
- The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).
- The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable.
- Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.
- The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves. See also: Power Supply Problems
How to test the F3 polyfuse[19]
- Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.
- Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.
- Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.
- Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.
- Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.
- Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.3v you probably have an issue with the F3 fuse[20].
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. Polyfuses recover from the tripped state to near their normal value in a few minutes, but do take some hours to fully recover so leave it unpowered and check it again in a little while.[21] If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.
Also, on a related issue, do note that if you do not power the PI in the "official manner", that is through it's micro-USB port, but use any alternative way (such as through the GPIO header, the test points TP1 and TP2), but also by back-powering it, you are actually bypassing the PI's input polyfuse protection device! This can have extreme consequences if ever you manage to put more than 6V on the PI, even for a very short period. As this causes the overvoltage device D17 on the the PI to trigger and short the 5V supply! Without the polyfuse limiting the current through D17, it will burn out, probably melting the PI's enclosure with it, (if you have any) and possibly causing a fire-hazard. It will probably also create a permanent short of the 5V supply! So be warned, and if you use back power make sure your hub or its PSU has a fuse to prevent this from happening. If not, add your own fuse.
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: Power Supply construction - HowTo
Hardware versions/revisions
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).
For Board ver. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")
Model A:
ver. |
Chip |
Chip |
Front | Back |
Model B:
ver. |
Chip |
Chip |
Front | Back |
BS12xx | Samsung | SMSC | ||
BH12xx | Hynix | SMSC |
See a complete list and user feedback here: RaspberryPi Boards
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/hardware/raspberrypi/schematics/Raspberry-Pi-B-Plus-V1.2-Schematics.pdf
- ↑ http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/115/APX803_D-86185.pdf
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973
- ↑ https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22318
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222526#p222526
- ↑ http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222549#p222543


text:
Healthy and yummy Paruppu Urundai Khuzhambu | பருப்பு உருண்டை குழம்பு and Masal Vadai | மசால் வடை using Murungai Keerai
For Paruppu Urundai:
2 Garlic pods finely chopped
1 Sprig Curry Leaves,chopped finely
For Kuzhambu:
1 tsp Oil
1 Medium sized Onion,chopped
1 Sprig Curry Leaves
Few Drum Stick Leaves for Garnishing
Salt to taste
- Soak the channa dhal and toor dhal in water for about one hour and drain the water completely.Reserve 2 tbsp of dal for masal vadai.
- Grind the remaining dal coarsely with red chilly,fennel seeds and salt.
- Add only tsp of water while grinding,because the batter should not be watery.
- Reserve some batter for vadai and transfer the remaining grinded dal into a large mixing bowl,add coriander leaves,curry leaves,onion,ginger,garlic and mix them well.
- Finally add the drum stick leaves,if u want u can add the grated coconut also at this stage and mix well.
- Make lemon sized balls and keep aside.Lets prepare the Kuzhambu.
- Heat oil in a kadai,add mustard seeds into it.Once the seeds splutter,add onion,tomato and curry leaves,fry them for a while.
- Add tamarind extract,fennel seed Powder,turmeric powder, chilly and coriander powder and cook in medium flame,till raw smell goes.
- Slowly drop the dal balls one by one,cover and cook for few minutes.
- Don't stir the gravy because the balls will break.If you feel the ball may break then you can either steam the balls in idly steamer and add it to the gravy.I add directly into it.Cover it with a lid and cook until the balls are cooked well.
- When it boils well garnish with drum stick leaves,this gives nice flavor to the gravy.
- Paruppu Urundai Khuzhambu is ready to serve.
Paruppu urundai batter
2 tbsp Soaked dal
Oil for Frying
- We are going to use the same paruppu urundai batter for vadai.Add the reserved dal and urundai batter.
- Mix them well.
- Wet the hand and make a small ball.
- Flatten the ball using thumb.
- Heat the oil and drop the vadai slowly.
- Fry the both side and take it out.
Enjoy the delicious vadai with unique flavour.That's makes a simple lunch into feast.
Have a nice day!

subset: commoncrawl


text:
The Crime Indices range from 1 (low crime) to 100 (high crime). Our crime rates are based on FBI data.
Violent crime is composed of four offenses: murder and nonnegligent manslaughter, forcible rape, robbery, and aggravated assault.
Property crime includes the offenses of burglary, larceny-theft, motor vehicle theft, and arson. The object of the theft-type offenses is the taking of money or property, but there is no force or threat of force against the victims.
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Dura-Lon Dog Collar, Double Ring Style
Dura-Lon Dog Collar, Double Ring Style
DOGS Unlimited's Dura-lon collar is made to stand up to years of use by the roughest of dogs. They're made from authentic BioThane coated webbing to reduce the possibility of wicking in wet or humid conditions; wicking is what causes de-lamination and de-lamination results in failure of the collar. Not good if you expect your collar to last and last.
At 1" wide the BioThane coated webbing has been tested to a breaking strength of 1000 lbs and it's fade resistant.
The lightweight, smooth finish minimizes irritation from rubbing, won't rot and resists chewing.
These Dura-lon collars have nickel-plated hardware and all rivets are capped to reduce catching on your good dog's hair.
Each DOGS Unlimited Dura-lon collar comes with a FREE personalized solid brass nameplate attached. For your consideration, DOGS Unlimited is introducing our new
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which will go very nicely with the collar's nickel hardware.
Solid brass or stainless steel. As always our brass nameplates come with either brass swat rivets or machine stamped solid brass rivets while the stainless steel nameplates will come with nickel plated swat rivets or machine stamped nickel plated steel rivets.
A word about our rivet options:
We offer two styles of rivets to attach our nameplates - SWAT Rivets and Machine Stamped Rivets.
SWAT Rivets
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Machine Stamped Rivets
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Dura-Lon Dog Collar, Double Ring, 1" W, 15" L, Red is found in the following departments
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DOGS Unlimited LLC was established in 1971 as a regional mail order company supplying gun dog training supplies to the area's sporting dog enthusiasts. Over the years it has developed new and innovative training products for the gun dog community that now seem commonplace. From these humble beginnings DOGS Unlimited has grown into a worldwide supplier of bird dog training and hunting supplies to such far reaching destinations as Australia, South Africa, Japan, England and, of course, Canada to name a few.
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The rioting instigated by an Islamic extremist sect known as Boko Haram, which initially attacked police and government bases, left hundreds of people dead and large property losses. Islam's strict Shariah law is already in force for Muslims in 12 northern states, but the sect is fighting to have it enforced more broadly in those states and to impose it throughout Nigeria.
"We are still taking inventory of how the crisis affected our members, but so far we have confirmed some of the Christians killed and churches burnt," Samuel Salifu, national secretary of the Christian Association of Nigeria (CAN), told Compass.
Rampaging members of the sect burned 20 churches before police captured and killed Boko Haram's leader, Mohammed Yusuf. Police say Yusuf was killed "while trying to escape," but a federal government panel is investigating allegations that security agents executed him after arresting him alive in his hideout.
The chairman of the Borno state chapter of CAN, the Rev. Yuguda Zubabai Ndurvuwa, said many Christians abducted by Boku Haram extremists were yet to be found. He noted that the Christian community usually has been hardest hit in religious uprisings in Borno and other northern states. Violence started on July 26, when armed sect members attacked a police station in Bauchi state that set off a firestorm of violence that spread to the northern states of Borno, Kano and Yobe.
Those killed in Borno include Pastor Sabo Yakubu of Church of Christ in Nigeria (COCIN), the Rev. Sylvester Akpan of National Evangelical Mission and the Rev. George Orji of Good News of Christ Church International, Inc.
Church buildings burned in Borno include five branches of the COCIN denomination, two Catholic churches, two Deeper Life Church buildings, two EYN (Church of the Brethren in Nigeria) buildings, and buildings of the National Evangelical Mission, Celestial Church of Christ, Elijah Apostolic Church, The Lord's Chosen Charismatic Revival Ministries, Assemblies of God Church, Redeemed Christian Church of God, Christ for All Nations, Baptist Church and Anglican Church, all in different parts of the state.
Nigeria has almost equal numbers of Christians and Muslims, with the north dominated by Muslims and the south largely Christian. Northern Nigeria has a history of religious crisis with heavy casualties among Christians.
A Maiduguri, Borno-based journalist, Abiodun Joseph, said members of the sect kidnapped his two sons after he and his family narrowly escaped being lynched by the sect members.
"They stopped us while leaving the estate where I live, which is close to their headquarters, and threatened to shoot myself and my wife if we resisted the abduction of my two sons," Joseph told Compass. He found his sons two days later.
"It was a very harrowing experience as we were not sure what would happen to them, but we thank God that they were not killed like others," Joseph added.
Many other abducted Christians, he said, were killed by rioters for refusing to renounce their faith.
Facing Loss
With calm restored, Pastor Enouch Atiyaye, chaplain of the University of Maiduguri Teaching Hospital, said Christians in Borno who were forced to abandon their homes have been returning to "face the loss of their family members and the burning of their churches and homes."
"There is a general feeling of despair and dejection among Christians with a high degree of uncertainty, since we don't know what can happen next," Atiyaye told Compass. "The fear is that the Boku Haram group has many members who have entrenched themselves in the state over the years. They disappeared during the crisis and can regroup to fight back if necessary security measures are not in place."
Based on the attack on Christians during the Boko Haram uprising and past experiences, CAN's Salifu said the association has lost confidence in the ability of the government to provide security for the lives and property of its members.
"If the government continues the way it has been doing, the association would have to give conditions for the co-existence of the various groups in the country" Salifu said at a press conference in Abuja, the country's capital, on Aug. 3.
Accusing Borno Gov. Ali Modu Sheriff of complicity in the emergence of the Boku Haram group, Salifu said Christians were apprehensive that there are dangers beyond what was apparent in the sect's uprising.
"We have no doubt in our minds that they would have perceived Christianity as a Western religion, which to them is also haraam [sin] which must also be eradicated," he said.
At the press conference the Rev. Ladi Thompson, international coordinator of Macedonian Initiatives, a Christian Non-Governmental Organization, accused the government of ignoring warnings by Christian leaders on Boko Haram activities, which he said could have been nipped much earlier.
The governor's press director, Usman Ciroma, dismissed CAN's claim of complicity by Gov. Sheriff, saying that it was preposterous and laughable that the tragedy that befell the state could be trivialized in that way.
"Which politician will be so suicidal as to set a group to kill his own people?" Ciroma reportedly said.
The governor, who denied any relationship with the Islamic sect, met with Christian leaders in Borno state for the first time on Wednesday, during which he disclosed plans to regulate preaching by religious leaders. For two years, according to news reports, attempts by Christian leaders to meet the governor over the plight of Christians in the state had been rebuffed.
"Government officials at the meeting tried to claim that Muslims were not more affected by the crisis, but the there is no indication that any mosque was burnt or any imam killed," said a Christian leader at the meeting who requested anonymity.


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It's true you did have cold feet about leaving - that's long forgotten.
Any good tips on making re-entry easier will be most appreciated.
Bless your heart, you sound so blue~
but don't worry, it is just the pendulum
swinging....all that excitement and now
the quiet. You are simply exhausted.
Give yourself a SPA day, hot soaks and
bubble baths and little treats that make
you feel better all day long.
Count your blessings. You'll be back in
Paris in October.
Bring back things to remind you of your trip that you can use on a daily basis, so you will have that pleasant feeling of remembering your trip.
Some things I have brought home from Paris – the little tubes of sugar – we can only get the packets – Café de Flore teapot, cup and saucer, small creamery pitcher, and Mariage Frères tea. Then, there are the Côte-d'Or chocolate bars and Maille mustard.
For me, though, what makes coming home easier is planning to get together with the kids and grandkids to tell them about our trip and give them their souvenirs.
Paris Bleus??
It is hardest thing to overcome for me.....
Here are my tips....
Fix yourself a very hot cup of Mirage Tea
(put it in a special cup).
While your sipping it, listen to you favorite French cd.
Go outside on your patio or deck, look up to the grey blue sky....you are there! it is the same sky over Paris....
It is all one... you are where ever you want to be. This is when you are forced to mind travel. It is medication for our reality routines....
Take good care,
In reply to your request for help to be happy now that you've come back from Paris, the answer is to be here now and not in your thoughts of the past.
'Happiness lies in the now'.
Even as you show us the beautiful images you captured in Paris, you can stay in the now.
As I look at the first image below the cup and saucer and the people in the chairs, I can see its beauty and yet be right here in the now.
'Happiness is here and now'.
Thank you for sharing all the beauty you see.
I know how you feel. I returned home on March 1st and I'm still feeling strange but I had been in Paris for over 6 months. Apparently, it's called reverse culture shock. You will feel a stranger in your own country for awhile. Just take it slowly. Knowing that you are dealing reverse culture shock helps. I have heard that the time period to get over it corresponds with the period of time that you have been away.
....and yes, I'm already planning the next trip!
After spending the summer in Paris studying at the Sorbonne with my youngest daughter we found ourselves restless when we got back. We realized we needed to walk and talk together because no one else understood what we had done, nor did anyone else want to walk as fast or as far as we could walked.
ReplyDeleteI am American but grew up in Africa. The hardest time in my life was coming back to what was supposed to be "home" to me. Years later, I'm still happiest when I'm transient and visiting another culture. My advice: visit your friends right away upon returning, and keep planning more trips!
ReplyDeleteWhat gets me through my "I can't wait to get back to Paris" blues is reading books about Paris, watching Bourne Identity, playing the game "what would be the first thing I'd do on my first morning back in Paris," looking at other people's Paris photos on the internet, and looking though my personal Paris photo scrapbook aout once a week.
As you can see, it takes a lot of work!
Your love of place really comes out in what you wrote, Carol. Sweet, nostalgic post. I hope you can glue your little cafe table together again--will you paint it?! Love the piggy bank! Pink, too! I say paint memories of it all, so you can reminisce, and we can all enjoy, as we always do. I feel like I went with you already!
ReplyDeleteWhat adorable little vignettes!
I think you nailed it when you said "the loss of urgency". That's it for me. I'm a night owl and a later riser in my every day life but on vacation, ANY vacation, I'm first one out of bed and out the door because there is so much to do, so much not to miss, so much to experience, and I don't want to waste of minute of the day. When I come home, fizzzzzzzle, I lose that momentum. I'm still trying to come up with a way to keep the energy going, but I'm afraid I haven't found the perfect solution yet.
People have given you lots of good suggestions that I won't repeat, instead I'll add one more that helped me. For awhile, treat your home base as a vacation location. Try to see it through the eyes of a tourist. Or pretend you have an invisible guest from another culture accompanying you through the day and imagine what would delight, awe, surprise or confuse them about the routines and places you take for granted. Fit some activities into your day that a visitor would do - visit a local museum, try a new restaurant, talk with strangers...
And of course, start planning the next trip.
First of all: THANK YOU for your helpfull suggestions!
I woke up this morning and realized that part of the problem is in all the pre-planning.
You spend weeks, well really months planning your next trip. YOu do tons of research.
Make lists of where you want to go and the hours and days etc.
But you do no planning for home coming.
At least I didn't give it a thought. So it becomes a bit of a shock and you're not at all prepared for it.
Maybe I need to go back to Paris RIGHT AWAY and Start planning my re-entry? ? ?
This is not from Dr. Phil, Carol, this is from your friend Dr. Bill.
All the comments preceeding mine reflect a wonderful thing. Your "Paris Breakfast" friends are sincerely concerned about the well being of someone whose intellect, talents as an artist and writer, and wonderful sense of humor (as in today's blog) start their day.
Lucky you! Lucky us!
Planning your re-entry. LOL! I'm leaving for Paris in just a few days and so I thought, do I have a plan for my re-entry? Well, yes, I do. On my return I'll only have enough time to take a deep breath, repack, and then it's off for a week of camping in the redwoods with a hundred high school sophomores on the northern California coastline. THAT should keep me from having too much time on my hands, eh!? In fact, somehow I've managed to end up with some sort of majorish travel plan scheduled into every single month of this year - until December, but that's when everyone travels to see me for the holidays. It's a great way to avoid the post-trip blahs but the big drawback is I have no idea how I'm going to get anything done this year. Okay, probably not the type of problem I'm going to get any sympathy from anybody for.
ReplyDeleteI just returned and found that the Spa day and tea or coffee in a nice local cafe make re-entry easier. During THIS trip I kept track of the things that I loved the most and looked at my home with new eyes. It's spring in the Phoenix desert also, and I took the camera and photographed all of the wonderful blossoms on the trees and cacti. I took the time to go to the gardens at local resorts to adore the flowers (like I did when I visited the hidden gardens in Paris). Sometimes we are so accustomed to our home area that we miss seeing all of the wonderful things that make it special. AND I set up the folder that will hold the ideas for my NEXT trip to Paris.


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Lawn Maintenance Near Me in Frogmore and Miss-Lou Area
We are a professional lawn service and maintenance company serving the Natchez, Vidalia, Ferriday, and the Lake St. John Areas.
Frogmore Lawn Maintenance Near Me include:
Lawn Mowing and Maintenance: Using some of the best equipment the industry has to offer, we will maintain you yard keeping it in pristine condition whether you want weekly or bi-weekly service. We service both residential and commercial lawns. Weedeating & Maintenance: Grass and weeds that cannot be reached by our mower, will be carefully edged with a commercial grade weedeater. Blowing Off Driveways & Walkways: We strive to not throw grass clippings on to your drive, however at the end of each cut and trimming, we inspect all hard surfaces to blow away any grass or weed clippings off your driveway and walkways.
Lawn Maintenance Near Me Prices in Frogmore
You can visit our Frogmore Lawn Service base pricing page here. We generally have a minimum fee of $50 for most residential lawns, however the prices may vary depending on the size, location, and obstacles in your lawn.
Frogmore Lawn Maintenance Near Me Program
During Frogmore grass growing season, your grass will be mowed and maintained weekly on a scheduled day. Depending on our schedule we try to allow you to choose which day of the week you'd like service, and we strive to arrive like clockwork. However, this is not always possible due to conditions beyond our control such as bad weather. All lawns will be checked for debris before mowing and we always take care to avoid valuable lawn enhancements. We will never leave a job site without your driveways and walkways being blown to remove any grass and weed clips back into the grassy areas. Typically, if we have a rain delay, we like to give 24-48 hours for the property to dry out so as not to damage the lawn. We will not under any circumstance mow over wet saturated ground for 2 reasons to ensure the lawn is not damaged. All walkways, fence lines, and bordered areas not accessible to mowers will be trimmed weekly for a well groomed appearance. Rain Days – If the weather here in Frogmore prohibits us from mowing on the scheduled day, we will reschedule your mowing as soon as possible. The Lawn Boy 5 Parsons Road Suite A Natchez, MS 39120 http://TheLawnBoys.net [google-map location="Frogmore"]


text:
This chapter describes issues associated with Oracle WebLogic Communication Services (OWLCS). It includes the following topics:
This section describes general issue and workarounds. It includes the following topics:
Section 16.1.1, "Active SIP Session and APP Session Count Show as -1 in Clustered Configuration"
Section 16.1.2, "Oracle WebLogic Server Pack/Unpack Tool Does Not Function in OWLCS"
Section 16.1.3, "Oracle WebLogic Server Cloning Tool Does Not Function in OWLCS"
In the Administration Console, the Monitoring -> General tab displays Undefined for the Active SIP Session Count and Active Application Session Count attributes when monitoring a replicated WebLogic SIP Server deployment. There is currently no workaround for this problem.
The Pack/Unpack tool in Oracle WebLogic Server does not work in this OWLCS release. There is no workaround currently available.
The Cloning tool in Oracle WebLogic Server does not work in this OWLCS release. There is no workaround currently available.
When no metric data is found, for example when no messages have been sent or received after server setup, the Metrics Performance page will display Unavailable. This is not a problem with the software, and the Performance reporting is operating properly. As soon as Send and Receive traffic exists, the Performance page will display results normally.
This section describes configuration issues and their workarounds. It includes the following topics:
Section 16.2.2, "Same User Who Installed WLS/WLSS Product Must Perform Uninstall"
Section 16.2.3, "Uppercase Usernames Cause Reregistration and Presence Subscription Failures"
Section 16.2.4, "Running the uninstall.sh Script in Text Mode Does Not Uninstall the Product"
Section 16.2.5, "SIP Monitor in F5 Networks BigIP Does Not Work in UDP Mode"
Section 16.2.6, "SIP Container Does Not Bind to IPV6 Interfaces for Listening on Windows"
Section 16.2.8, "Configure VoiceXML Driver Receive URLs Correctly"
An error has been reported when using the launch_sash
command with the -e
option. For example:
MW_HOME/user_projects/domains/base_domain/bin/launch_sash.sh -p 8001 -n weblogic -w welcome1 -a presenceapplication -e "xcap appusage list"
does not properly process the xcap appusage list
argument because the double quote (") is mishandled.
To work around this problem, issue the command at the sash
prompt directly.
In order to perform a clean uninstall, ensure that the same user (privileges) who accomplished the install also accomplishes the uninstall.
When a user is created with an uppercase username, then the following occurs:
Initial registration progresses normally, resulting in successful registration with Oracle Communicator.
Presence subscriptions fails.
After a few minutes, Oracle Communicator displays Server Refused Registration (403)
User's account is locked and sign-in is blocked for 30 minutes.
To work around this issue, set Trusted Authentication Hosts for the SIP Container by doing the following (from the Administration Console):
Click SipServer in the left pane.
Click the SIP Security tab.
In Trusted Authentication Hosts, add the IP address of your server (that is running OWLCS).
Save and restart OWLCS.
Using this workaround, presence functionality will fail for clients running on the same machine as the OWLCS server. Such cases (both Oracle Communicator and server running on the same machine) are mostly for demonstration and development environments. For these cases, ensure you create users with lowercase usernames.
Reregistration and presence subscription failures can also occur when users are created with privateId
being different than the username part of the publicId
For example, if privateId is test.user1 and publicId is sip:firstname.lastname@example.com, everything works because test.user1 is the username part of the publicId sip:email@example.com.
But if privateId is tuser1 and publicId is sip:email@example.com, the username part of the publicId is not the same as privateId. In this case, the first registration succeeds with Oracle Communicator, but reregistrations and presence subscriptions fail. Apply the same workaround (configure trusted host as described above) to resolve this issue.
Perform uninstallation using the Administration Console to ensure that all components are uninstalled. Ensure that you use the same user privilege as when you installed.
When using the F5 Networks BigIP load balancer for a cluster of SIP engines and the SIP monitor in BigIP is used for failure detection, it must be configured to operate (sending OPTIONS requests) over TCP and not UDP. UDP mode will not work (the pool will indicate that the servers are down).
Due to limitations in the Windows IPv6 stack, the SIP Container cannot bind to IPv6 sockets for listening.
Due to an issue with the OWLCS Core Platform CIE-based installer, the JAWS tool cannot correctly read the installation screens. To work around this issue, you must run the installer in silent mode. For information on Silent Mode installation, see Oracle WebLogic Communication Services Installation Guide.
In a clustered (high-availability) environment with Oracle HTTP Server (OHS) configured, do not use the OHS port to configure the VoiceXML Driver Receive URLs. Using the OHS port to configure the VoiceXML Driver Receive URLs will cause a conflict with the drivers.
Each Voice XML Driver must be configured with its own WLS server's port (as described in the parameters' documentation).
This section details changes to the documentation since the last release. Topics include:
Section 16.3.3, "Cannot Create a SIP Server Domain Using Default WebLogic Platform Components"
Section 16.3.4, "Broken Documentation Links in Some (SIP Server) Translated Files"
Section 16.3.5, "Missing (SIP Server) Online Help Regarding Security Providers"
Directions for creating a basic SIP Domain have changed slightly in this release. Please ensure that you follow these steps:
Start the configuration wizard located at WLS_HOME/wlserver_10.3/common/bin/config.sh
. This location has changed since the last release.
Select Create a New WebLogic Domain, and click Next.
Select Basic WebLogic SIP Server Domain, and click Next.
The rest of the process remains the same as before when creating a WLS Domain.
Follow these steps to create custom AUIDs:
View the XML file for presence rules (presrules_au.xml
). It is found in one of the following locations, depending on your installation:
The file contains the following:
Name of the application (pres-rules)
Mime type
User Quota
List of schemas associated with the application's XML files
Create a similar file for the new application usage
For all the XSD files listed in the XML file above, create the XSD files and copy them to the XCAP config location mentioned in Step 1 above.
cd $ORACLE_HOME/sdp/bin
./launch_sash.sh -a presenceapplication
Provide admin credentials. At the sash prompt enter:
xcap appusage create applicationUsage=<new application usage name> configurationFilename=<name of application usage XML file>
For instance, this command was run to create the pres-rules application usage:
xcap appusage create applicationUsage=pres-rules configurationFilename=presrules_au.xml
To provision users for the new application usage, at the sash prompt enter:
xcap user add userName=<string> applicationUsage=<new application usage name> . <string> is of the form email@example.com (replace example.com with domain for the deployment)
When running config.sh
for SIP Server domain configuration, you can choose whether to use WebLogic Platform Components or a Custom Template. The default for Select Domain Source is to use WebLogic Platform Components. In previous releases, this selection worked, but does not in this release. You must select Custom Template in order to create a SIP Server domain.
Some links to additional documentation were removed in the English language version, but broken links in translated (languages other than English) have been reported. These broken links are being addressed.
Online Help regarding Security Providers is not included. Oracle SIP Server, including information about security providers, is licensed and documented through OCCAS. Please consult your OCCAS documentation for more information.


text:
2010 ல் உலகிலேயே மிகவேகமான 10 பைக்(இருசக்கர வாகனம்) படங்கள்:Top 10 Fastest Bikes 2010
>> Monday, November 29, 2010
< இளைஞர்களை கவரும் என்று நம்புகிறேன்.
Here is an exhaustive list of top 10 fastest superbikes. We have tried our level best
to gather information from various sources, and inter-tallied them. This
seems to be a viable answer. Top speed would be considered here under testing driving
conditions. If you're about own anyone please do let us know how it feels to ride them.
Here goes top 10 fastest bikes in the world.
Engine: 849 cc (51.8 cu in), 4 valves per cylinder desmodromic liquid cooled L-twin
Power: 100 kW (134 hp) @ 10,000 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed, wet clutch
The 2009 model was available in Red and Pearl White color. The 848 shares
more features with 1198 than its predecessor, the 749, like single-sided swingarm,
same rake and trail and same valve angles among many. 9 more after the break...
Engine: 999.6 cc V4
Top speed: 175 miles per hour (281km/h)
Power: 132 kW (178 hp) @ 12,500 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed, wet clutch
This is the successor to the Aprilia RSV 1000 R motorcycle which began
manufacturing in 2004. The RSV4 was unveiled at the International Piaggio
Group Convention in Milan, Italy. During its first full season of World Superbike
racing, Max Biaggi aboard the RSV4 reached the podium 9 times, and won one
race at the Brno Circuit.
Engine: 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC
Top speed: 190 miles per hour (306km/h)
Power: 110.3 kW (150 hp) @ 13,200 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed constant mesh
engine and weighs 437 pounds. It easily goes to 300+ km/h and is
priced at $12,000. It has an excellent body work and is the most powerful,
efficient and cleanest running production engine Suzuki has ever produced.
Engine: Forward Inclined Parallel 4-cylinder, 20 valves, DOHC, liquid-cooled
Top Speed: 186miles per hour (297 km/h)
Power: 128.2 horsepower (95.6 kW) at 10000 rpm
Transmission: Constant mesh 6-speed
Yamaha launched the YZF-R1 after redesigning the Genesis engine to offset the
crankshaft, gearbox input and output shafts and this "compacting" of the engine
yielded a huge dividend in that the total engine length was now very short.
The Yamaha YZF-R1 motorcycle, introduced in 1998, was the first significant
motorcycle in the true liter class (1,000 cc) "handling arms race" between
the Japanese Big Four motorcycle manufacturers (Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha).
When introduced, it took the class closer to a true racing motorcycle, and increased the
handling capabilities. May be some more improvements it might push it further to
the top among the top 10 fastest bikes in the world.
Engine: 90° V-twin cylinder, 4-valve per cylinder Desmodromic, liquid cooled
Top speed: 185 miles per hour (299km/h)
Power: 134 kW (180 hp) @ 9,750 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed
1198R from the Italian manufacturer is available in red, black and white.
Engine: 1352 cc four-stroke, liquid-cooled,DOHC, four valve per cylinder,inline-four
Top speed: 185 miles per hour (299km/h)
Power: 142 kW (190 hp) @ 12,500 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed
the ZX-14 does 0–60 mph in 2.5 seconds. Also known as ZZR1400, it was also
featured in Fifth Gear. It can cover one-fourth of a mile in 9.783 seconds.
Engine: 998 cc, 4-stroke, 4-cylinder, liquid-cooled, DOHC, 4-valve cylinder head
Top speed: 186 miles per hour (300km/h)
Power: 147 kW (197 hp) @ 12,500 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed
the Ninja ZX-10R is at number four. It is a successor to the ZX-9R sport bike.
It boasts ultra-narrow chassis, low weight, and radial brakes.
Engine: 1340 cc (82 cu in), 4-stroke, four-cylinder, liquid-cooled, DOHC, 16-valve
Top Speed: 188 miles per hour (303 km/h)
Power: 197 horsepower (147 kW) @ 6750 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed, constant mesh
translates directly from the Japanese as Pergerine Falcon, the bird commonly
attributed of achieving speeds of over 180 mph (290 km/h) and predator of the
common blackbird. The name Suzuki Hayabusa is a subtle reference to
Honda's competing Hawk models. When introduced in 1999, Suzuki Hayabusa
overtook the Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird as the fastest production motorcycle.
The first generation of the Hayabusa was called the GSX1300R and was powered by
a 1299 cc (79.2 cu in) inline-4 liquid-cooled engine. In the US, the 2008 suzuki
hayabusa will boast a price tag of $11,999 and stands still in the list of top 10 fastest bikes.
Engine: 999 cc four-cylinder 4-stroke, DOHC, 16-valve, TSCC
Top speed: 185 miles per hour (299km/h)
Power: 142 kW (191 hp) @ 12,000 rpm
Transmission: 6-speed, constant mesh, Back-torque limiting clutch
four-cylinder 4-stroke engine. It too tops at 185 miles per hour. It features
dual hydraulic disc brakes at the front and single ones at the rear.
Engine: Rolls-Royce 250-C20 turbo shaft
Top Speed: 227 miles per hour (365 km/h)
Power: 320 horsepower (239 kW) @ 52,000 rpm
Transmission: 2-speed automatic
world's second wheel driven motorcycle powered by a turbine engine,
created by Ted McIntyre of Marine Turbine Technologies Inc and it appears
just below Suzuki GSX-R750. Powered by a Rolls Royce Allison 250
series turboshaft engine, producing 238kW (320hp), this motorcycle has
a recorded top speed of 227 mph (365 km/h), with a price tag of US$150,000.
It is recognized by Guinness World Records as the "Most powerful production
motorcycle" and the "Most expensive production motorcycle". Unlike other
contemporary motorcycles (such as the Hayabusa), 2001 and later models of
MTT Turbine SUPERBIKE do not have the 300 km/h speed limit self-imposed
by Japanese manufacturers. MTT has achieved the 1st rank among the top 10 fastest bikes.
http://thamilislam.tk Read more...


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