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Josh Wharton: The Minimalist
Josh Wharton and Brian McMahon, two young unknown climbers in the post 9-11 isolation of 2002, had spent about 45 mostly storm-filled days in the Trango Valley, Pakistan, when they finally approached success. High on the granite spire known as the Flame, McMahon led the penultimate pitch, an aid section, and fell when a Talon blew off a rock edge as he drilled a hole for a removable bolt. The sharp three-pronged hook tore a 2-inch gash in his wrist. As he continued to climb, the blood pooled in his Gore-Tex sleeve, and, when he raised his arm, rolled down to soak his chest.
He stanched the bleeding while Wharton followed, then courteously offered Josh the next lead, what looked to be 30 feet of easy 5.10 to the summit. McMahon explains today, "It was Josh's skill that had gotten us this far. Also, I was sure he wouldn't accept, since we'd have to switch shoes at the hanging belay."
"Being a greedy bastard, " says Wharton, "I took it."
McMahon says that was lucky.
"Josh took off from my good anchor and headed up 5.10ish climbing without any gear. After about 25 or 30 feet he got a knifeblade in halfway, and two lobes of a black Alien." At that point Wharton saw the true summit, guarded by a 160-foot slab with no gear. He called down asking for input, and because McMahon badly wanted to summit, but as surely didn't want the lead, he says with humor: "I pretended I couldn't hear him."
Wharton hung out for 10 minutes, then launched onto 5.10+ opening moves on dime edges.
Once started, he progressed steadily up the slightly decomposing pinkish alpine granite. Edges occasionally crumbled a bit underfoot; he brushed ball bearings off handholds.
The lead took an hour and a half. The 5.10 climbing lasted 50 or 60 feet, then downshifted to 5.9. McMahon says, "My only real thoughts were that I really hoped he'd make it, and that if he fell there was no way he would live."
A fall from high on the runout would have bounced Wharton 60 or more feet down the slab, then into a 100-foot freefall. If Wharton were injured, help would mean hauling him up the overhanging pitch below, a night of rappelling, a few days of travel on the crevassed glacier, and several days' walking to the nearest town. McMahon also had to wonder whether, if Wharton died, and he had to cut him loose, there would even be enough rope left to get down.
As Wharton reached the last 10 feet of rope, McMahon's thoughts suddenly turned toward pretty much the worst bit of simul-climbing he'd ever imagined. But 190 feet above the belay, Wharton slung the rounded summit horn.
Wharton later told an American Alpine Club slide-show audience, "It was like doing Stoner's Highway"—a sustained Yosemite 5.10— "where you make some moves and clip, and say, whew, and make some more, and clip, and say, whew. Except you don't get to clip."
John Harlin, editor of the American Alpine Journal, has called the pitch "one of the boldest summit leads in climbing history."
Wharton, of Rifle, Colorado, is now 29 and a leading all-around climber, having attained major firsts such as the often-attempted Azeem Ridge of Great Trango, also in the Karakoram. But he still thinks of his and McMahon's Flame ascent, Under Fire (VI 5.10 X A3 M5 AI 4), as probably his proudest.
Wharton's major achievements have mostly been in Pakistan, where he has made five expeditions. Two years after the Flame, Wharton and Kelly Cordes climbed the Azeem Ridge (VII 5.11 R/X M6 A2), one of the world's longest rock routes, with vertical gain of 7,400 feet. Taking four and a half days, they ascended in what they cheekily called "disaster" style, with but a 28-pound pack between them, and a basic rack. In 2006 Wharton and Cordes retreated 100 vertical feet shy of the summit of Shingu Charpa's knife-edge North Ridge. From the ground they had misidentified the upper ice slopes as snow, and, traveling light, brought only a pair of soft aluminum crampons, while Wharton had only sneakers.
Ironically, the Ukrainian climbers who claimed to have summited on the same route just weeks before turned out to have lied. When the ascent was nominated for the 2007 Piolet d'Or, one team member confessed, posting on mountain.ru that he had "no moral right" to stand among the nominees at the ceremony. The team, he said, had turned around at the same height as the Americans, also for lack of ice gear.
"We thought it had been done," Wharton says. "In retrospect, I wonder if we would have tried a little harder."
Other landmarks include the first free, and first one-day ascent of the North Pillar (VI 5.11+) of Fitz Roy, Patagonia, with Bean Bowers in a swift 14 hours in February 2006, and a near-success on the precipitous Torre Egger with Bowers and Jonny Copp in 2005. A labored four-hour lead had taken Bowers to within six feet of the top of the melting summit mushroom when the fin beneath him collapsed, sending him for a 100-foot whipper. He whizzed upside-down past bulging snow and ice, his back glancing off, then was hit by 100 pounds of falling debris. The fall tore out Copp's V-thread-and-ice-axe anchor, lifting him to counterbalance Bowers on a single screw. Wharton was 20 feet below on a ledge, at a two-piece belay, with yards of slack between him and Copp. Had the screw gone, Bowers would have flown down the South Face below, taking Copp with him, onto Wharton's belay.
"Are you alive?" Copp asked Bowers.
Bowers sustained only a minor back injury.
The previous year Wharton and Copp had climbed the French Route on Fitz Roy, and done the first free ascent of the Austrian Ridge on Saint Exupery.
Last summer Wharton and Bowers attempted the prized and still unclimbed North Ridge of Latok 1.
Wharton has received four AAC Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants, also Polartec and Mugs Stump grants. Jack Tackle, longtime member of the Spitzer Committee, says, "He's as strong a young alpinist and all arounder as anyone. The Great Trango Tower climb with Kelly Cordes is one of the best things ever done in the Himalayas by anyone. First ascent, alpine style, full commitment with dropped rack and no water for days … the full real deal."
With McMahon, Wharton established King of Thebes (V+ 5.12c), on La Esfinge, Peru, in 2005 (Wharton also free soloed the Original Route, V 5.11, there); he and Copp have the fastest winter ascent (14:17) of the Diamond Face of Long's Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, via D7 in 2004; and in 2002 he and Phil Gruber linked El Capitan's Nose and Half Dome's Regular Northwest Face, Yosemite, in 18 hours. Wharton onsighted Eroica (V 5.12b/c) on the Diamond eight weeks after breaking his foot in a 60-foot fall, when he got off route on the Gothic Pillar (V 5.10 A3) in the Black Canyon.
In the Black, Wharton has done 74 different routes, almost certainly more than anyone else. Highlights include the FA of the Black's hardest route, Black Sheep (IV 5.13), in 2007; linking The Free Nose (V+ 5.12c) and Tague Yer Time (V+ 5.12b) in 13 hours, in 2006; in 2005, with Mike Pennings, the first one-day ascent of the Serpent (VI 5.11+ R/X), a steep route known for difficult routefinding and bad gear, and only previously done in big-wall style; and, in 2004 with Thad Friday, the "Trifecta" speed enchainment (20:45) of the grade Vs Southern Arete (5.10+), Astrodog (5.11+) and the Scenic Cruise (5.10+). Also in 2004, he and Zack Smith put up Bloodsport (IV 5.12 R).
Wharton is not easily fazed. He has sustained at least five sprained ankles, and this past winter hit the ground twice: 25 feet from an M9 in Redstone, Colorado, and 50 feet off the first pitch of the Talisman (M6 WI 5+) in Ouray when a cauliflower formation collapsed underfoot as he was placing a screw. He landed in soft snow both times, and went back up and finished both routes.
Wharton's not half bad as a sport climber, either.
He lives a life you could call dual if that did not under-represent practicing all aspects of climbing (he also "loves" bouldering, though declaring himself bad at it). He travels to the greater ranges twice a year, while his home is within a few miles of the sport trove of Rifle Mountain Park.
Inside the yellow frame house, on the front hall is a framed hypodermic needle. It is placed in a collage beside a dusky x-ray of a nasty tib-fib spiral fracture.
As a teenager, Josh ski raced at the Gould Academy, in Bethel, Maine, trying his hand in both the alpine and Nordic realms. He also bike raced, on both road and mountain bikes; in mountain biking, he rode both cross-country and downhill. Apparently he has always wanted to do it all.
The collage is one of several thoughtful, delicate combinations, using such elements as stamps, watercolors, maps and pencils, created by Josh's artist-sculptor father. One collage, containing photos of Josh's grandparents on crags in England and North Wales, and his father, John, in the Shawangunks, reads, "For Josh: for Christmas 1994. [From] your grandfather, grandmother and me. Climb if you love it. We did! Dad." John, now 68, did an early British ascent of the Eiger, in 1966.
The hypodermic needle dates back to when Josh was 16 and broke his leg: "It was nothing cool," he says. "Just skiing too fast in soft snow with my [tight] boots unbuckled. I looked back up the hill for a friend, caught a tail in a pile of slush, and that was that."
Glancing at the needle, he laughs his easy, near-continual laugh. "I was told if I felt a cramp, it meant that I might have a blood clot, and I was supposed to jam that thing in my thigh," he marvels. "Can you believe that?"
His father, John, says, "I'm not sure what was in that needle. I thought it was a diuretic, in case his leg swelled. He got off the plane and showed the needle to me with a flourish. I, of course, confiscated it."
Josh has a natural, courteous demeanor, which occasionally cracks under the jangling surge of energy beneath. Today he is managing a life of fulltime climbing. It appears a charmed life, but nothing is ever that easy, and some of the good—in it, in him—has evolved through trauma.
When he broke his leg, Josh was at Tignes, France, for a ski-training camp with his school. "I wasn't ever very good or excited about ski racing, but I wound up at the summer training camp in France because my mom had just died—I think my dad thought it would be good for me to get away. That backfired!" Yet from that era arose his climbing.
In 2001 Wharton and Copp traveled to the Cirque of the Unclimbables, remote northern Canada. They started with the classic Southeast Face of the 2,000-plus-foot Lotus Flower Tower (V 5.10) in 4.5 hours, then pulled the first ascent of Pecking Order (V 5.11+) on Parrot Beak Peak. After that they turned to a free variation of the Original Route, a 2,000-foot crack system originally rated 5.8 A4, on Proboscis.
Copp says Wharton, even early on, was "extremely motivated … safe, fast and psyched: the necessary elements for the big routes. And he had the laugh, a key to shrugging off the hard times, bad weather, scary situations and the unknown."
The crux pitch, about halfway up Proboscis, had been cleaned and toproped free by Nancy Feagin, with Barry Blanchard, in 1999. (Rain prevented her lead attempt.)
The pitch was knobby granite that Wharton calls "kind of Tuolumne-esque," next to a flaring seam, and through a bulge. Protection was "very, very scant."
At 15 feet off the belay, Wharton, climbing onsight, reached a little stance and banged in a pin. At about 40 feet he clipped an old fixed nut. What followed was a 30-foot runout to a ledge, the moves sustained at 5.12a, with no particular crux, but nothing secure, not even a good fingerlock.
"It was super dicey," he says. "It probably wasn't death because there were no ledges to hit, but you'd fall a long, long way and it was a time when I didn't onsight 5.12 all that often."
Copp recalls, "The pace slowed slightly. I heard a few grunts and fed the hiccupping rope attentively, and then it was smooth again. I was barely in there following the pitch free."
"That was the first pitch that I got a lot of confidence on," Wharton says. "The first trip where I did something mentally challenging … in the middle of nowhere and with terrible gear. That was a turning point for me." He was 22, still in college.
"I don't think I am a naturally gifted climber by any means," he says, "but I'm good at trying hard."
It feels lucky even to find Josh at home, because he seems to be everywhere. Take the last calendar year: At first he was rock climbing at the Fortress, a crag near Rifle, and road-tripping for ice in Ouray, Colorado. Next he was "off for a couple weeks" with his fiancée, Erinn Kelly, 31, to climb in Las Vegas and in Bishop, California. Then it was back to Ouray for the ice fest, then off to Patagonia till March, when he dutifully showed up at the Red Rock Rendezvous and in Smith Rock, Oregon, for the annual American Alpine Club gathering. After that he expected "local [climbing] with short trips until July. … Then up to Jackson for the AAC climbing camp on the 24th for a few days. I'll be around in July, apart from a short trip to Mount Hooker, Wyoming. Then off to Pakistan and back in late September." Spring and fall he always climbs assiduously in Rifle and the Black Canyon.
Some trips are to present slide shows and teach clinics. Wharton is on "the list"—of name climbers, speakers, clinic teachers. He likes the last category best, and thinks that is where he can really contribute.
Where he'd sort of rather not be, as it happens at one point, is stopping, on his way to climb at Independence Pass, at the coffee shop by my office in Carbondale, for another in a series of interviews. When I vaguely suggest, after an hour, letting him off the hook, his car keys are immediately out of his pocket and on the table. My closing remarks are truncated, because he is out the door.
Wharton is 6 feet and a solidly built 170 pounds, with a brown crew cut, goatee, and tilted dark-brown eyes. "We joke about that in the family," his father says. "My great-grandfather was a seaman who either married, or didn't, a Tahitian woman. That's where the eyes come from."
At Josh's house, which at the time of an early interview he and Erinn Kelly share with Jed Wareham-Morris, a tick list of Rifle routes, grades and "flashes," or not, adorns the kitchen wall.
He is slightly sheepish about the list, attributing it to Jed (who in the interim since this interview will move out, but still comes over to train on the wall in the chilly backyard shed), but admits to being equally obsessed with his own métier: the routes of the Black Canyon.
"That's one of my favorite areas, with the best rock on some of the hardest routes, the best training area for alpine climbing in North America. It's committing, has adventure, loose rock, route-finding: all the elements that alpine climbing has, apart from horrible bivies. You learn to be uncomfortable."
Meanwhile he also made it a project to do all the routes, even the choss ones, up to 5.12d in Rifle.
Overall, he's onsighted (while also flashing others) 10 5.12c's, three of them trad; seven 5.12d's and three 5.13a's: Infidels and Captain Rehab, in Saint George, Utah, and El Paso Blanco, in Altea Col, Spain.
Wharton claims he does best at areas "that nicely combine my strengths with soft grades."
This spring he redpointed The Daily Planet (5.13d) at the Fortress.
"I never used to be into sport climbing before I lived here. It's just fun to go try hard stuff even if you can't do it. … A lot of people have their ego wrapped up, really good alpine climbers don't want to commit themselves to something they'll look bad at. I had to get over that."
In alpinism, Wharton practices a genre of climbing that often involves three months away at a time, and danger. It is hard on daily lives. Yet he is in a stable relationship, gets along well with his family; both his father and his fiancée, Kelly, who is a teacher and a dancer with a master's in dance education, support what he does. His father, who used to play professional soccer and race sailboats as well as climb, doesn't just accept the dangers, he sends photos of peaks, suggesting or urging projects, and helps select and modify gear.
Wharton's comfort in every facet of the sport has its base in his childhood in New England: "It's always chilly there," he says. At 15 he left Phillips Exeter Academy, where his father was an art teacher, for Gould, a small prep school (300 students) with a big ski program.
He had started bike racing at age 7, and his family traveled all over in an RV—to Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Ohio, North Carolina and New Jersey—for that. John Wharton had summers off, and Josh's mother, Patricia McKee, an attorney and district-court judge, joined them when she could, such as flying to Florida for a weekend race. His father had two other sons from an earlier marriage, but they lived in Seattle.
"My parents were really into it, if I was into something," Wharton says. "I think they were just really psyched to have a little kid, and were willing to put other things aside.
"Days off, we'd always do something. Skating, go for a hike, something." They'd hike in the woods and around the lake where they lived, and his mother was notorious for suggesting short cuts that, Josh says, "always wound up as long-cuts. She was a great mom. Even though she worked a lot, we almost always spent her free time doing fun things together."
He had just turned 16 when Patricia, at only 54, died of pancreatic cancer.
"Since I only knew my mother until I was 16, I often wonder if my memory of her is all that accurate. But I remember her as very kind, honest and well-liked by pretty much everyone—300 or 400 people showed up to her funeral, which gave me the impression that as a lawyer she had helped loads of people.
"She was always honest. Once we went skiing with my dad's friend David and his kids at Jay Peak in Vermont. David decided to buy all the tickets under the family discount to save money. My mother felt so guilty that a few days later she sent Jay Peak a check to make up the difference."
Patricia McKee in her 20s "did all kinds of interesting stuff," he says. "She lived on a sailboat, traveled around Europe. She was an adventurous person—I think she would have been worried about me [climbing], but not necessarily discouraging."
Josh got into climbing when she became ill, gravitating to it because it absorbed him: "Your mind is kind of free when you're climbing, you're not thinking about anything but what's in front of you. I was not fit and athletic. I had no gifts for it. I was kind of a chubby kid with no upper body."
Wharton has made no secret that his climbing in part stems from his being, in the wake of his mother's death, a "mild Trustafarian." He also lives frugally. "I would hardly call it set for life," he says. At the time of this particular conversation, in summer 2007, he figures he has about a year and a half before his "little slush fund" runs out. Fortunately for him, in the months after this conversation, he will be picked up as a Mammut athlete, thereby able to earn a living wage.
"In a lot of ways I'm not sure I would have gotten to do the things I have if I hadn't gotten some money. Or a dad who let me use it how I wanted to."
His father was always his climbing mentor. "He took me to Pawtuckaway a few times when I was a little kid and I would just cry, I hated it. He took me to Wales when I was 11, and we did some super easy things. We'd walk up to the crag, and I'd cry for half an hour, and he'd convince me to do it, and afterwards I'd feel like a superhero and talk about it all the next day."
He was much closer to his mother, Patricia, while growing up, he says. "When my mom died, my dad and I were forced to get close. Ever since then we've been really close.
"It's really weird to think what would have happened if Mom was still alive. I might be a lawyer."
John Wharton eventually remarried, to Adeline Aquilino, a history instructor at Phillips Exeter. "She was impressive, too, really nice," Josh says feelingly. "They were married two years—she got sick three weeks after they got married. They found out she had the same kind of cancer my mom had." Aquilino died at 49.
In August of 2000, on his first trip to Pakistan, Josh climbed a first ascent on the Little Trango that he called The Patricia McKee Wall (IV 5.10+). He was 20.
On the Great Trango, years later, two serious sections fell to Wharton. The first was on day two of his and Cordes' ascent, when Wharton climbed 80 feet of marginally protected 5.10, which included a wide crack, to a ledge below a 15-foot headwall. It had obviously been aided on a previous attempt.
"There were just studs, threads [with no hangers], and we only had one hook. … I put a hook in a hole, put tape on that, and had Kelly take tight on the tag line to keep the hook from falling off as I free climbed past." The previous piece was a cam 20 feet below.
"I would have hit all kinds of ledges and stuff. It was probably 5.11, with one really hard move, but that's what I like about alpine climbing, you have to solve it. I would never do that at the crag."
The second trouble spot was much higher, on the knife-edge at 20,000 feet. It came after the climbers had had no water for 30 hours, and after some 15 pitches of traversing, when retreat was hardly an option. The two had lost six of their 18 cams on the first day when a gear sling came undone, and they had no bolt kit.
Wharton stepped around a corner, lowered 40 feet and swung out left to reach a corner: an 80-foot offwidth full of ice. He had neither gear to fit it, nor any ice screws.
Strapping one crampon onto his left rock shoe, he began climbing, protected by a bad cam at 30 feet and, at 35 feet but off 25 feet to the side, the equalized beak and knifeblade he'd used to pendulum. For 70 feet he climbed rock with his right hand and ice with his left, using "a tiny little Grivel tool that my dad and I had chopped down."
"My right side was having to climb 5.11 and the left side was having to do M6 or something.
"You can't just rap to bail, so you look around and think, 'What are our options?' and they're pretty terrifying. You're nervous and calm, you have to be both at the same time. So you are hyper-aware and focused. You can't make a big mistake. That's what's cool about it. You have to do it."
By high-school graduation Wharton was ready for a large school, and attended the University of Colorado in Boulder, where he studied English. "I got less and less into school as I went more into climbing. My mom was always the one who pushed me in school, so when she was gone," he says with a laugh, "my grades took a major dive."
Now he climbs 200 days a year, with no signs of burnout: "I'm psyched to climb. If anything, I get frustrated when I can't climb as much as I want."
In his downstairs office, he produces a three-ring binder of records of Black Canyon climbing.
"I'm kind of goal-oriented," he says. "I feel like if all I'm doing is climbing, I might as well be, otherwise I'm treading water."
Yet where does such a well of motivation originate? "I think my parents," he says. "If I was going to do something and they were going to support me, I better really do it and do it all the way."
In the end, Josh thinks Patricia's death makes him more able to do what he is doing, including remote and dangerous climbs, and his father to understand it.
"Having someone close to you die makes you more accepting of death, whether on a climb or from cancer, because these are the days we have and you want to live them to your fullest."
Asked his strengths in the mountains, Wharton reflects, "I do a good job preparing. Generally, I'm relatively even-keeled. … The important thing is, I try to be open to criticism, it's a really good way to improve, and to accept my role. Like, 'Maybe I'm not so good at ice climbing so maybe I should let Jonny lead the ice.'" (Some climbers want to swap leads evenly.) On Trango, he and Kelly Cordes decided that Wharton would lead the difficult rock sections, and Cordes would lead the moderate ground, where he was very fast, and any ice.
One strength also creates a weakness, though. Wharton calls himself a little obsessive: "Maybe sometimes I'm a little too intense about being prepared, a little harsh on people, expect them to do more on the climb or be as prepared as I am, like maybe we don't really need to pack the bag the night that we get down from the first attempt."
His friend Bean Bowers chuckles at the appraisal, and says only that it is spot-on. "He is just a humble guy with a lot of talent and motivation. … I think the funniest thing with Josh is the dichotomy of working hard: When it comes to a climb I know no harder worker, but watching him try to put in an honest day of common labor, like painting, is hilarious because he has no endurance for the mundane. I think that's why he dislikes hiking so much."
In February of 2007 Wharton took an activist stance. In a chapter detailed in Rock and Ice no. 161, Wharton and Zack Smith decided to try to climb the 1970 Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, but to skip the 400 bolts placed by Cesare Maestri. If successful, they would chop them on the way down. Wharton considered the placements "a huge act of hubris" that changed the nature of the mountain from its original state as "one of the hardest in the world."
The bolt-removal attempt, ultimately unsuccessful, created a firestorm, pitting the two against the longtime climber Steve Schneider, who had come to Patagonia to climb the route and mountain.
Wharton doesn't regret the venture, but won't try again. "I don't regret anything I learned from it, like how quick people are to judge. I'm sure I've been guilty of that in the past." Others assumed, he felt, that "Steve was the nice guy, [but] judged Zack and me as egomaniac jerks, and that I was a spoiled trust funder and a media monger. And maybe it wasn't so simple.
"This [issue] is something I care about. I genuinely thought it would be a positive thing."
In May of this year, Wharton and Zack Smith left for the Kichatnas, and returned with an FA of a mixed line on Kichatna Spire. As of August Wharton and Whit Magro will try the undone North Face of Latok 1, which Wharton called in his 2007 trip report for the AAC "one of the baddest alpine walls I've seen anywhere in the world."
Asked if he has any regrets in the mountains, Wharton only comes up with the fact that he and Cordes bailed off Nameless Tower the week after Trango "for no really good reason—little cloudy, little icy, little cold, etc." They were simply mentally played out. "At the time it didn't bother me a bit, but in retrospect I've realized we should have tried harder. Getting to crazy places in the mountains requires loads of time and energy, and I've realized more and more that you've got to seize every opportunity."
What, as much as anything, becomes clear as distinguishing Wharton and his peers is the way in which they absorb setbacks and blows, stay positive, and keep on climbing. Maybe they just have faith in themselves.
Bean Bowers says that during the descent from Torre Egger, "We were joking a bit to take the loss well. … Josh, as are Jonny and me, is of the mind that it is the process [that matters] more than any given summit." Bowers had tweaked his back, but Wharton and Copp turned right to a 52-hour enchainment of the three towers of Saint Exupery, San Rafael and Poinçenot. I notice that in the American Alpine Journal account Brian McMahon wrote on the Flame ascent, the gusher in his arm didn't even rate a mention. Bowers once took a 60-footer—"a really bad, horrible, tumbling 60-footer in a 60-degree gully on the North Pillar of Fitz Roy," as Wharton recalls. "He landed right next to me, said, 'Pass me the fucking crampons' and that was it. You get on with it. You push yourself."
Alison Osius is executive editor at Rock and Ice.


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Topic: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp (Read 40411 times)
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March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
December 05, 2012, 05:53:14 PM »
Friday March 8-Sunday March 10 DBMA Training Camp with Frankie McRae and Guro Crafty: This is the camp that was cancelled last summer due to my double adductor tear. Frankie and I have decided to hold it at his facility so as to enable all the fun and games that his facility offers-- the facility is regularly used by Special Forces and other units from nearby Ft. Bragg, where Frankie used to teach. Cost is $300 for all three days for the general public, and $250 for military, LEO, and DBMAA members. In order to help the budget conscious, those so inclined can bring a bedroll and sleep at the range (you will be sleeping indoors) or if you would rather there is a pleasant and reasonably priced motel nearby.
More details to follow.
The Adventure continues!
Last Edit: January 02, 2013, 09:48:08 AM by Crafty_Dog
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: 3/8-10/13 DBMAA Training Camp
Reply #1 on:
December 23, 2012, 11:55:05 AM »
Due to a double tear in my left adductor muscle last June, we had to postpone last summer's Camp. I am delighted to report that we are ready to rock and roll!
As many of you know, DBMA can be said to be divided into three major areas:
1) Real Contact Stickfighting and related matters
2) "Kali Tudo" ™ and other Empty Hand
3) Die Less Often (DLO) : The Interface of gun, knife and empty hand.
The Kali Tudo is where we can explore and adrenalize weaponry idioms of movement empty-handed. Not only does this have considerable merit for cage fighting but it also prepares us for faster and more efficient reactions in DLO situations wherein we often will not have time to discern whether the adversary is armed or not, let alone choose a different response accordingly.
In DLO 1 we introduced us the basics of drawing and "getting off the X". DLO 2's focus was on gun people identifying when to solve knife attacks with a gun and when to solve the attack before going to gun (i.e. the attacker is too close) and not to try to both solve the attack while drawing at the same time (a VERY common error by many gun people). DLO 3 focused on initiation and interception from "the Kali Fence".
Now it is time for DBMA's DLO to turn to the study of the gun in Close Quarter. Though I own and shoot guns, I am quite far from instructor level in their use. This brings us to our guest instructor Frankie McRae of Raidon Tactics, whom I met while working at Fort Bragg and with whom I am now in alliance
Who is Frankie McRae?
Frank McRae is the former head of the US Army Special Forces Advanced Reconnaissance Target Analysis and Exploitation Techniques Course (SFARTAETC) at Ft. Bragg N.C. He started his military career in the 1st Ranger Bn as an 11B infantryman. He served in the 1st Special Forces Group (ABN) Okinawa Japan, in Cco 1st Bn. 1st SFG(A) (C-1-1) where he was an assault team leader for F team,Troop 1 in the Combatant Commanders In-extremis Force (CIF) conducting operations in Operation Enduring Freedom. Advising, training and standing up the Light Reaction Company of the Armed Forces of the Phillipines (AFP). He was then assigned as an Instructor to the SFARTAETC at the Special Warfare Center and School in Ft. Bragg NC, was promoted and became the NCOIC of the course and awarded for having the highest graduation rate for the course in it's twenty year history . He also served as a Troop SGM Troop 1 and Team SGT ODA-354 in B co 2nd Bn 3rd SFG(A) CIF in IRAQ as an Iraqi Counter-Terrorism Force (ICTF) Company SGM advisor and combat leader on many missions in Iraq and also attended the Israeli Counter-Terrorism Course as an exchange instructor.
For those of us not familiar with the acronyms with which the Army loves to speak, allow me to break this down a bit (for surely Frankie is too humble to do it himself). Frankie is a Green Beret who after extensive experience leading units in firefights in Iraq and elsewhere taught advanced firearms to his fellow Green Berets at Fort Bragg, which is one of the major bases for Green Beret/Special Forces training. As the Non-Com Officer in Charge (NCOIC) he had the highest graduation rate for the course in its history. In other words, not only does the man have a wealth of combat experience, he is one helluva a teacher as well, deeply experienced in the ways of teaching people to successfully operate in extreme adrenal state of a firefight.
THIS IS A VERY RARE COMBINATION and the opportunity to take advantage of training with such a man is one to be taken.
WHEN: The Camp will be for three days: March 8-10, 2013
WHERE: The Camp will be held at Frankie's facility in Fayetteville NC
which is just outside of Fort Bragg. Elite units regularly contract to use this first rate facility and its trainers. Holding the Camp at Raidon means that Frankie will be on his home turf and we will have the run of this first rate training facility for our training.
COST: The cost for the three days is $300 for the general public, and $250 for military, LEOs, and DBMA Association members. To further help you keep your costs down you may bring your own bedroll and sleep on the floor of one of the training rooms at the facility. For those who want the comforts of a hotel/motel, there is a very pleasant and reasonably priced one up the road.
DAY ONE: Trauma Care. Amongst his many talents, Frankie is an "18 Delta". An 18 Delta is a Special Forces Medical Sergeant and quite a bit more; his talents include teaching others how to do trauma care e.g. what to do when you or someone else is shot, stabbed, or cut until proper medical care is available.
Here is the course description for the day- With some adaptations based upon civilian realities it is based closely upon 1 Day Tactical Combat Casualty Care (TCCC) TSE-NRBL-100. TCCC is quickly becoming the standard of care for the tactical management of combat casualties within the Department of Defense and is the sole standard of care dually endorsed by both the American College of Surgeons and the National Association of EMT's for casualty management in tactical environments.
TCCC is built around three definitive phases of casualty care-we will cover the first two at the Camp:
Care Under Fire:
Care rendered at the scene of the injury while both the medic and the casualty are under hostile fire. Available medical equipment is limited to that carried by each operator and the medic and you or someone else needs fast medical care.
Tactical Field Care:
Rendered once the casualty is no longer under hostile fire. Medical equipment is still limited to that carried into the field by mission personnel. Time prior to evacuation may range from a few minutes to many hours. This will involve stabilizing a patient until medical care arrives and you are then able to assist the medical personnel because correct lifesaving measures have already been rendered to the patient.
This one-day course covers the Care under fire and Tactical Field care phases for soldiers that are isolated or in small units away from medical assistance, using small bags that have minimal equipment. (see e.g.
What that means for us is that under Frankie's supervision your training will including doing cricothyroidotomies on pig windpipes and chest wound seals on pig ribs. This is training that truly maximizes your ability to remember what to do and have the confidence to do it should you ever need it!!! There will be NO LIVE ANIMALS USED FOR THIS TRAINING!
DAY TWO: Close Quarter Combat with an emphasis on fun in and around vehicles:
a. Confined space fighting to avoid hijacking
b. Where and how to sit to avoid a hijacking a high crime area
c. Getting out of a vehicle that is being fired upon when it can no longer move and is rendered useless
d. Firing from vehicles
e. Using vehicles as cover
This course module will be conducted with Airsoft training guns in order to maximize the learning environment and maximize student involvement in a safe but challenging situational training. It is designed to get you into the adrenal state and let you understand through the use and feel of the experience what works and what does not-without killing anyone. If you do not have your own, we will provide the Airsoft pistols, rifles, and safety gear.
We feel that the airsoft training guns give the best feedback and safety needed to accommodate this type of training. If you are experienced with firearms and have never used Airsoft you will be surprised by the effect and the training value they provide.
When all is said and done this module will give you better awareness as to your situation and vulnerabilities in a vehicle but also give you added strengths that you may not have thought of in the past. It is just another way to use the tools in your tool box in a non-standard situation.
First Frankie will introduce "the Crafty Dog Shooting Stance". Though with very good reason I am quite humble about my firearms skills, applying the logic of "consistency across categories" I have based my close quarter shooting stance upon "Kali Tudo/Kali Fence" structures. In this I have been blessed to have a shooting coach such as my friend Southnark give me the room to explore this when I attend his courses. The structure seems logical and efficient to me, but I lack the basis to respect my own opinion in these things!
Thus is was of great interest to me to see what Frankie made of it when we worked together at Fort Bragg. Here is what he says:
"I wanted to let you know that since we have started working together I have learned a tremendous amount. More so with the adaptation of your fighting stance and the flexibility it offers for my Gunfighter series. I have found that it allows for a more mobile base to a more reflexive stance that keeps the shooter from becoming too lazy and moving into a Weaver stance. Indeed, I think it no less an innovation than the Weaver stance and no less deserving of its own name and hereby propose "the Crafty Dog Stance".
"You know how I feel about a restrictive position. The Crafty Dog gives a more powerful position to the shooter to start from and makes movement easier. It is better for recoil management in a rapid shooting engagement and allows smaller shooters and women to shoot bigger handguns without all the shoulder involvement. It allows for better follow thru and for sure makes recovery easier for faster shooting and quicker target engagement for follow on shots. I just taught a three day Gunfighter course and some of the students had attended a previous course. They loved the new addition and thought it was better adapted to shooting as well. One student said it was more comfortable for him to use the Crafty Dog than a regular Isosceles because it put less stress on his lower back with all the kit on. Anything that helps our backs with 60lbs of body armor and kit has got to be better than the normal. I wanted to thank you again for the mentoring and the new techniques you have taught me. I hope one day to be able to reciprocate as much."
"Frankie McRae"
I humbly blush at such praise from such a man , , , and vainly accept the naming of "The Crafty Dog Stance"
I strongly underline the point that the stance is the principal one I teach for Kali Tudo and Kali Fence application and thus there will be no change or transition necessary from other structures when a CQ gunfight goes or begins hands on.
The first part of the day will be dedicated to learning to move and shoot from the Crafty Stance. From there we will move to "Fun in and around vehicles"-which is exactly where lots of problems arise.
There will be segments concerning fighting inside the vehicle, shooting from inside the vehicle (including how to work as an effective team with your buddies), how to get out of the vehicle and fight from there, and more.
DAY THREE: Room-to-Room Armed Movement including CQB:
Often the logical thing to do will be to hunker down, call 911, and wait for the police to arrive. What are the best ways to hunker down? And, if you have to go looking for trouble, what are the best ways to do that? What to do if someone tries getting tangled up with you? We will show how DBMA techniques such as the Dog Catcher and the Dracula blend seamlessly with the Crafty Stance so you can re-establish the proper range and angles for your gun.
In closing I would like to mention a few things:
a) Because we have so much to do, the days will be longer than the usual five hours. We anticipate 6 hours for the Trauma Care and 6-8 hours for the second and third days;
b) THE COURSE IS SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS AS WELL AS SEASONED PLAYERS. If you are a beginner ("I've always been meaning to get around to guns, but never found the right opportunity" or your shooting experience is limited to stationary shooting at stationary targets) this is an outstanding opportunity to get started the right way-with the big real world picture that a man like Frankie can convey. Because the "guns" will be airsoft, safety errors do not mean that someone will get shot. If you are a seasoned player, this camp will be one big long opportunity to pick up the gems that come from being coached by and hanging out with a high level operator instructor like Frankie McCrae.
Will you be there?
As the saying goes, "Ninety percent of Life is a matter of showing up!"
"Walk as a Warrior for all your days",
Guro Marc "Crafty Dog" Denny
Camp Registration
Last Edit: January 02, 2013, 09:58:11 AM by Crafty_Dog
Posts: 11
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #2 on:
January 02, 2013, 10:09:46 AM »
Really looking forward to the March Camp. Looks like we will be able to make a lot of progress in a short time. Just want to be sure that people are prepared for the training by telling them that if you are new to shooting this is good time to train, if you are not new to the shooting realm then this is still great training for anyone. My approach is more than unorthodox to conventional thinking. I like to think that I have used my experience to narrow the gap in reflexive action to a tactical situation by using common tasks that fit the %90 rule. I believe in multi-use tactics so that you can master the basic skills needed in the adrenal state to win the fight. There really is no advanced shooting techniques just fast ass execution of the basics, that overwhelm the enemy.
Frankie McRae
Director of Training
Raidon Tactics Inc.
Posts: 11
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #3 on:
January 03, 2013, 04:15:07 PM »
I wrote an article for an online blog about three years ago called the Mindset of Combat Marksmanship. Crafty Dog and I think a lot alike in the reaction and action of a fight. The reason I say reaction first is mainly for the civilian reader that should not be the aggressor but , by no means, the victim in any situation. The fighter, whether with empty hand or implement or firearm should always be prepared for the worst case scenario they can think of in any environment they find themselves. The problem comes when the fighter does not have the thought process or experience yet to think of everything and they have to adapt what they have in hand, on the ground, or in their head to fight off an attack. with out going too deep into the physical aspects of the adrenal state. I would like to let a few readers understand my philosophy of mindset. This will also save time during the spring training camp of not having to cover something that you can read and hopefully comprehend. I am not the writer or wordsmith that Crafty Dog is by a long shot. As all learning is never finished, I have many more things to add to this article , however, I think I would always stay with these as the core tenants of survival and much more useful for victory.
The Mindset of Combat Marksmanship
Combat Marksmanship (CMMS) is the ability to place lethal precision fire on a threat target in all environments under the stress of combat in order to reduce a threat to a point that it is no longer viable. CMMS differs from Marksmanship (MMS) fundamentals, in a way that, the enemy is firing at you or was just firing at you. In marksmanship shooting events, the shooter has all the time to make a shot count. In CMMS, the shooter has limited time, literally the rest of his life to perceive a threat and then eliminate that threat. When a UFC fighter goes into the octagon, they call it combat. However, is it really? He cannot bite, head butt, or gouge the opponent's eyes. It is nothing more than a very painful athletic event. The UFC fighter has the ability to say, "I quit" or tap out. In combat, the face off of opponents is to the death, you do not have the ability to quit. If you quit it is very likely that you or someone else will die.
CMMS begins with a mindset that the shooter is going into a combat situation. When a boxer enters the ring, he expects to be hit. When a person has taken on the responsibility to protect himself or others, he has to assume that once the fight is on, it is to be to the end. It may end peacefully. Posturing may actually work. Studies show that a gun presented by a victim actually keeps the assailant at bay or runs him away. The mental decision of the "victim" to refuse to be a victim was the first action completed to save his life. That decision was made as soon as that person decided to arm himself. The correct mindset for the "Combat" situation starts with preparedness.
is the situational awareness that something may happen and "prepares" the mind by thinking out the "what ifs". "If this happens, I will do this……..". This little saying is one of the best thoughts to have before something actually happens. Human reaction times to a stimulus are as fast as .25 seconds. These reaction times are achieved when a person can think thru the actions needed to accomplish a task before it is needed. This is a mental rehearsal. My collegiate wrestling coach was a big advocate of the "mental rehearsal". Before matches, I would lie in bed the night before and mentally picture the match in my head. I would visualize the actions I was going to do first and think to myself "if this or that happens, then I will do this….." I wrestled the match virtually many times before I wrestled it actually. Now, I am a much better shooter than I was a collegiate wrestler, but I learned a lot from those simple mental exercises. These prepared me for many situations in life. Preparedness also influences determination and the ability to be proactive.
is the next principle of the mindset for combat. It is the innate personal decision to "not quit" until the situation is over. By being mentally prepared, the shooter is not as surprised at the situation and therefore not as overcome by events as someone that has no idea about what is going on. Because a person can think ahead in the gunfight, he can then realize the outcome and be proactive, not reactive. By being determined and proactive, the gunfighter has a diminished fear factor. I am not saying that there is no fear in the gunfight. There is fear, fear of others getting injured or dying and other types of fear. Maybe fear of the bad guy getting away. However, determination, the mental attitude that "I WILL NOT QUIT" carries us thru to the end of the fight. Determination gives us passion and passion can be the driving force that gets us out of bed on Saturday mornings and takes us to the range.
Passion is the love that we have for activities we do. Going to the range and training for tasks that are uncomfortable or hard to accomplish. However, once we accomplish those tasks we feel gratification and satisfaction. That passion breeds more determination to excel and make ourselves better and push ourselves harder. We just have to remember, too much "can do" sometimes can do us in. We need restraint at the right time in the training cycle. We must be able to control the passion and use the smoothness we develop in our actions to develop the mental speed needed to anticipate what happens next.
, both mental and physical comes by training actions repetitively. By repeating the same actions correctly many times, we "groove" that action in our brain. Once that motion is "grooved", the action can become almost reflexive. There is no such thing as "muscle memory" per say. It is a term used to explain the reflexive actions of trained tasks that can happen with minimal outside influences. A reflex by definition is a response to a stimulus that does not need to go to the brain and be processed. It goes to the spinal column and back to the point of origin. Training increases speed. Training gives us the experience to know what should be happening next in the sequence of events.
drives us to train and determination keeps us going when it gets difficult. By focusing that passion and determination, we can "push thru" to the next level of accomplishment and our speed increases. With focused power and speed, we accomplish violence of action.
Violence of Action
is the execution of actions with surprisingly overwhelming force. It is a culmination of all the passion, determination and speed needed to realize victory. When faced with violence of action the assailant must reevaluate the situation. Violence of action also diminishes the bravado of the assailant and increases the bravery of the gunfighter. Violence of action is the one aspect that criminals use to surprise victims and totally dominate the situation. By dominating the situation, they control the victim. The gunfighter must use all the aspects of the COMBAT mindset to be the one that dominates the situation, eliminate any threats with the appropriate level of force and be prepared to go to that level of force. Thereby controlling the situation and being victorious.
The Combat Mindset is not a natural born ability for most people. It is and can be a learned response. In preparing oneself for the fight, the combat mindset must be mastered. You must have determination to go the distance, passion to work hard and the mental preparedness to be aware of the situation.
Frankie McRae
Director of Training
Raidon Tactics Inc.
Frequent Poster
Posts: 58
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #4 on:
January 04, 2013, 12:06:43 PM »
This promises to be an exciting class! I am looking forward to attending it, if life allows. For those of us needing to make travel arrangements, have training times for each day been set? The two times that I am specifically interested in are: Start time, Friday 8 March and End Time, Sunday 10 Mar.
Thank you for setting up this event!
Posts: 11
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #5 on:
January 04, 2013, 01:19:21 PM »
each day will start at approximately 10 am and end when we get done. The will be some long days, but for Sunday we will end training at 6pm to allow travel . Drive time from RDU is about 1.5 hrs, travel from FAY is about the same.hope this helps. Crafty is getting all the info together and putting together a schedule.
Frankie McRae
Director of Training
Raidon Tactics Inc.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #6 on:
January 09, 2013, 02:54:53 PM »
Hi Marc,
Hope you have been having a great holiday season.
Thank you for the info on the Camp. I was not expecting to have the travel expenses, but even without first experiencing it I can tell it is going to be fantastic training! -- especially with Frankie's knowledge, teaching expertise and the use of Frankie's facilities.
So as to minimize expenses if I can do that (with the new wife's 'approval' Hahaha), here are some questions:
1) What airport are we flying in to? How far is it from the airport? Taxi fine, or rental car-needed?
You will want to fly into either RDU (Raleigh NC) or FAY (Fayetteville, NC). Frankie tells me he is located mid-way between the two of them, so which one you use is simply a matter of which one offers you the better price and/or more convenient schedule. Not only is the drive from the airport is about 45-60 minutes but food and hotel will require your being able to get around so you will want to rent a car. Know that as people sign up we will put attendees looking to share a car rental in touch with each other.
2) What's the closest hotel lodging? If I was able to stay on the training facility instead, are there shower basics? What's Frankie's charge for that?
The hotel is the Micro-tel in Lillington NC 28323. I have stayed there and it is a very agreeable place with a number of restaurant options in the immediate vicinity.
For those so inclined, they can sleep on the floor in the dojo and will have limited shower facility. No charge for dojo.
3) Do we need to bring any specialized medical first-aid equipment/IFAK's, CAT tourniquets, etc?
Frankie will provide what you need. Of course you may want to consider having a basic trauma kit of your own
Also, feel free to bring any items you may already have for which you wish Frankie's input.
4) Will the Airsoft pistol be provided or do we need to bring one?
You can bring your own or use one provided by Frankie.
5) Any other equipment we should bring other than a holster and mag carriers?
*Eye protection and ear protection are a must.
*Forearm guards such as
are highly recommended.
*Training knives: In addition to drones of your actual carry knife, and aluminum trainers, we also recommend this:
*For those who like to play in a rowdy manner, of course bringing a cup, a mouthpiece, and elbow and knee pads would be a good idea.
6) If we stayed on the training facility, will there be a place to secure live firearms?
Thank you Marc. I'm looking forward to getting this past the wife and making it happen.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Here is where to register
Reply #7 on:
January 09, 2013, 03:13:00 PM »
Power User
Posts: 107
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #8 on:
January 09, 2013, 09:41:19 PM »
Really excited about this. Hoping to reserve my spot in a couple of weeks once the funds become available.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #9 on:
January 09, 2013, 11:06:44 PM »
Dr Dog
Power User
Posts: 79
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #10 on:
January 23, 2013, 06:14:35 PM »
I'm in - this should be awesome!
C Dr Dog
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #11 on:
January 23, 2013, 09:42:49 PM »
Power User
Posts: 107
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #12 on:
January 25, 2013, 01:52:41 PM »
Got signed up for the NC Training and finally signed up for a DBMAA membership......very much looking forward to it...........Hope to this year get more involved instead of poking around on the periphery.
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Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #13 on:
January 25, 2013, 02:12:04 PM »
Welcome aboard Sgt. Mac
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Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #14 on:
January 29, 2013, 10:12:00 AM »
Here's Frankie's Raidon Tactics in the gun press:
Posts: 11
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #15 on:
January 30, 2013, 04:43:08 AM »
OK so wanted to get on and say sorry for not being able to post anything. I had an engagement in Arlington for a friend last week. we are looking into a small "cabin" arrangement for the camp. Not sure if we will be able to get it all complete before the camp but we are investigating a small area with bunks and a shower for those needing a place to stay. The accommodation we have now is the floor of the dojo and a classroom. There is a porta john for use and showers are in my brother's house connected to the dojo. I dont like to make that too available for people because he does have a life and I dont like to impose too much. but we are working on it. And if all else fails we have a water hose out side(haha) for those that really stink. We will keep you posted with updates. Talk with you guys later. Frankie
Frankie McRae
Director of Training
Raidon Tactics Inc.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #16 on:
February 19, 2013, 08:56:50 PM »
If I am not mistaken we are up to 18 folks now!
Posts: 11
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #17 on:
February 20, 2013, 06:28:06 AM »
There is no way we will have a "cabin" done in time for the camp. there is a plumbing issue that will delay that effort until next year. but that still doesnt mean you cant stay for sure. We have one range member that has proposed that you guys can stay at his house just around the corner(country corner) from the range. but I need a good count of how many people want to sleep in the Dojo. So use the email string that Crafty Dog has started to let me know. Looks ike things are coming together rather niceley for the camp.
Frankie McRae
Director of Training
Raidon Tactics Inc.
Power User
Posts: 107
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #18 on:
February 22, 2013, 12:51:24 PM »
Alas, I have ran in to a serious roadblock that has made it impossible for me to attend. My disappointment is beyond words. I wish everyone the best of luck and hope to train with you all in the future.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #19 on:
February 23, 2013, 03:42:26 PM »
Bummer Sgt Mac,
we'll see you next time
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #20 on:
March 01, 2013, 06:59:02 AM »
Excited to be signed up and attending. Trust my aging and out of shape carcass will manage to keep up.
Plan to stay at the hotel, but won't be able to book it until I'm sure a potential complication isn't going to sneak up on me. If worse comes to worse, got a couple of trees I can hang a hammock from? I backpack a lot and it's my preferred way of snoozing in the field.
More than happy to share my shower if I do manage to book a room. Look forward to training with y'all.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #21 on:
March 01, 2013, 08:49:21 AM »
Please post on the group email what you just posted here.
Looking forward to seeing you
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #22 on:
March 02, 2013, 12:20:22 AM »
I have arrived in Fayetteville at 0300. Tomorrow there's a gun competition and then I get to train with Frankie and together we prepare for the Camp.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #23 on:
March 02, 2013, 01:35:12 PM »
Frankie and I went over the lesson plan for the Camp today; I am quite impressed at how well thought out it is.
REALLY looking forward to the gun training I will be receiving from him over the coming days!
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #24 on:
March 04, 2013, 04:35:57 PM »
Day One of my personal training with Frankie: OUTSTANDING
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Posts: 2321
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #25 on:
March 04, 2013, 06:05:26 PM »
Very good to hear. I am looking forward to updates!
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #26 on:
March 09, 2013, 07:07:22 PM »
Day 2 at the Camp. Frankie taught the , , , ahem , , , "Crafty Dog shooting stance" ("Hell Marc, if Weaver gets a stance named after him, you should get this one named after you!") and intro to shooting from and bailing from cars.
Dinner conversation tonight was a wonderous flow of war stories from Frankie with a number of goodly police stories thrown in as well.
Tomorrow: shoot house games-- there's a rumor Frankie may be playing too , , ,
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #27 on:
March 10, 2013, 09:27:13 PM »
Frankie demonstrated this morning why he has converted to the Crafty Stance this morning in an amazing display; including with pistol, AK, AK full auto, and something else really big full auto, and shotgun.
The shoot house games today were the highlight of the Camp. The games (airsoft) began with 3-4 of us at a time scattered throughout the house at a time in locations of our choosing and then Frankie coming through the house and taking all of us on.
When my turn came I thought I had a clever spot from which to intercept. Instead his first shot hit me dead center in the forehead while mine went high (yes he actually could see that my aim was high while he was hitting me) and then as I flinched he put 4 in my ribs/lung/heart/other lung and as I turned to face him again 2 more in my heart and then stomped me in the chest for good measure as he proceeded on to his next kills.
The number of shots he took in return over his engagments with the 20 of us (a number of whom had goodly gunning experience) was shockingly low. Perhaps having done some 150 home invasions and been through some 126 firefights had something to do with it?
Having seen it "fought" we were quite ready to be taught. He broke down what he had done and how he had done it and then coached each of us individually through house adjusting our technique before errors could take root.
Then to cement the experience we repeated the experience with a series of shoot/don't shoot silhouettes and finished by going up against each other.
Power User
Posts: 53318
Re: March 8-10, 2013 DBMA Training Camp
Reply #28 on:
March 12, 2013, 10:16:28 AM »
Just got back in to LA late last night, exhausted by deeply enthused.
Busy dashing around catching up and getting ready for my trip this coming weekend to Bloomington IL, but I will try to come up with an AAR on the Camp.
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This article was originally published in the May/June 1993 issue of Home Energy Magazine. Some formatting inconsistencies may be evident in older archive content.
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Home Energy Magazine Online May/June 1993
Don't Make Fridges Like They Used To
Loved your special refrigerator issue (HE, Jan/Feb '93). With regard to old refrigerators, a distinction should be made for very olde boxes which are quite efficient. I have two old boxes still running, a GE and a Westinghouse. Each uses less than 15 kWh per month (180 kWh per year). One uses sulfur dioxide as the refrigerant. In your pictures I don't see any boxes this old, so they must be getting rare!
Thick insulation, efficient and massive compressors, and oversized condensers help as does the small U-type, in-box freezer compartment. These boxes have the rounded-off top styling and probably date from the late '20s or '30s.
I once took a more modern Frigidaire 14ft2 no-frost box and modulated the power to the whole box with a close hysteresis temperature control in the freezer set at 8-10Fdeg.. This lowered the average condenser temperature; cut the power to door heaters, defrost motor, and interior light; and lengthened the time between freezer defrosts. The power consumption dropped from 116 kWh to 77 kWh per month.
The motor started more often and occasionally ice built up inside the refrigerator as the close cycling gave it little time to melt. This experiment led me to believe that considerable savings could be had by changing controls. With intelligent ice sensing to regulate defrosts and high thermal mass and surface area in the condenser, a great deal is saved.
Boulder, CO
More Dirt on Coil Cleaning
I want to congratulate you on the special refrigerator issue. It's very good, informative fun reading, and full of surprises. (The lemon where they empty the freezer of ice every morning is a great example.) I'm especially curious about your article on maintenance not necessarily lowering energy consumption (Maintenance Doesn't Necessarily Lower Energy Use, HE, Jan/Feb '93, p. 17).
Is the figure correct that only 10 out of 27 refrigerators had dirty coils? This is very surprising. In my informal research, everyone I have ever asked has never cleaned their coils. Do you know whether the owners cleaned them, or if the design somehow didn't collect dust? (Judging from the average age of 16 years, I assume it wasn't just that they were too new to be dirty.)
What do you suspect was going on in the two units that showed a marked increase? I assume someone checked that the new gaskets were properly installed. Is it possible that the repair person lowered the thermostat setpoint from a temperature which was previously too high? (Did he or she also possibly raise it in some of the cases where energy was saved?)
Prof. George W. Hart
Department.of Electrical Engineering
Columbia University
New York, NY
The contractor noted the condition of the condenser coils, classifying them into the following subjective categories:<
14 were clean,
1 was no dust,
1 was good,
1 was average,
4 were fair,
1 was dirty, and
5 were plugged.
While the increased energy use began immediately after maintenance, and probably resulted directly or indirectly from the maintenance, it has not been possible to identify the actual physical cause of the increased energy use. The contractor may have adjusted the thermostat setpoint without noting that this had been done. The occupants could have adjusted it after maintenance and we would be none the wiser. One of the units with increased use had new gaskets which caused the door to pop open. The old gaskets were reinstalled the next day, but perhaps were no longer in good condition.
Whole-House Fans and Oil-Fired Furnaces
We have a dilemma that nobody else seems to recognize (or admit), and I'd like to know if I'm worrying too much. We are having a new house built, and one of the features being added is a whole-house fan. Our dilemma is that the hot water system is a tankless in-furnace unit, which means that to make hot water, the furnace comes on. Why is that a problem? Well, the whole-house fan will very effectively suck all those furnace gases back down the chimney and into our house. The obvious answer is to spend money and have a gas or electric water heater hooked up for use during the fan seasons, but that is expensive.
Does anyone have both a whole-house fan and a furnace-fired hot water system? If so, can you detect any gases when both are running? Is there something that can be done to keep the gases from being sucked in?
It won't be practical, or effective, to keep the basement door shut and a window open, so that's out. Any other (inexpensive) ideas? The reason I ask this question is that in my last house, I was actually awakened in the middle of the night by the smoke alarms when a fan and furnace were on at the same time. The smoke was very thick in the basement by the time I turned off the fan and furnace.
Greg Roody
Shrewsbury, MA
Editor's Note: Whether a whole-house fan will produce backdrafting problems depends on a number of factors including the type of combustion equipment, how much depressurization the fan achieves, and the extent of coupling between the occupied space and the space with the equipment. The normal use of such fans involves opening one or more windows, to get the maximum amount of air moving through the house--otherwise the depressurization could easily result in unsafe operation of combustion appliances. Your interlocking solution solves that safety problem, but the effectiveness of the fan is still compounded by lack of free air flow. Perhaps the addition of dampers would solve both problems (see Backdrafting Causes and Cures, HE, May/June '91, p. 30).
Performance Contracting Full of Bull?
Gil Peach's performance contracting article fails to recognize that a utility promoting DSM is always interested in obtaining the lowest cost of delivered capacity savings (see Performance Contracting: Advice to Utilities, and related, Performance Contracting: An ESCo Perspective, HE, Nov/Dec '92, p. 19 and 23, respectively). Bidding programs therefore promote cream skimming since lowest cost is paramount, even though this is not in anyone's interest. To protect against cream skimming and lost opportunities, the utility does not need to expand its staff to monitor the retrofit process, but rather it needs to design sound DSM programs which encourage energy service companies (ESCos) to complete comprehensive installations!
Advocating that utilities avoid front loading is really ludicrous. The very idea of DSM programs is to incentivize the market. That is achieved through education or money, up-front, when the resources are being expended.
Defining baseline measurements using only one year is probably not a more prudent approach. An average of several years is more apt to reflect normal energy consumption figures unless changes in equipment or use have occurred. Also, payments made on batches of customers is the only way to reduce person-months of effort in paying for completed small capacity jobs.
Adjusting for free riders is justified; however my experience suggests that there are as many customers who are incentivized by neighboring projects (utility subsidized projects) as there are free riding. These free-drivers should also be accounted for.
In the marketplace customers typically have a much higher cost of capital than utility companies and therefore they require a higher rate of return on conservation DSM projects than the utility. The goal of a DSM program is to buy down the cost to the customer of a conservation project (with utilities paying up to avoided cost).
James C. Crossman
Financial Energy Management, Inc.
Denver, CO
To say that a utility promoting DSM is always interested in obtaining the lowest cost of delivered capacity savings doesn't acknowledge other objectives of a conservation project: the quality of work, materials, and customer service; the comprehensiveness and persistence of measures; and the relationship of the project to the overall strategic business plan of the utility. Although the advantage of hiring the performance contractor seems to be a simplified package, the utility may end up shouldering unexpected costs of staffing and consultants to handle problems in verification of energy savings.
Also, an important drawback of front loading is that the utility can find itself trying to recoup money from a defunct energy services company (ESCo) after savings have disappeared.
Mr. Crossman is correct that averaging years of energy savings may provide a more representative baseline than one year. But be aware that performance ESCos can use this argument as an opening to create fradulent baselines from which to measure their performance. Likewise, batching can be a convenience for both parties, but it can also be set up to burden a utility's oversight capability.
Free market economics are largely illusions in this sector of DSM conservation if there aren't numerous buyers and sellers. While it is possible for utility-performance ESCo partnerships to be worthwhile, given current regulatory realities and dollar amounts involved, they are also vulnerable to fraud.
Author Greg Thomas also responds: Mr. Peach's arguments can be taken as justification for utilities' limiting competition to their own programs from ESCos. Regulators need to understand that kind of competition--and among ESCos as well--and work toward fostering utility-ESCo cooperation. The heart of the problem is the lack of standardized processes and criteria for the equal evaluation of DSM programs carried out by both utilities and ESCos. Friction develops when utilities apply criteria for persistence and quality to ESCo programs that they do not apply to their own. Also, when utilities are given short-term rewards for program implementation, without measurement of persistence, installation quality, and comprehensiveness, they will tend to commit the same abuses as ESCos.
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Stolen Knox school bus found in Claxton
When a Knox County school bus driver got up to begin her routes Wednesday, she faced a problem.
Her bus was missing.
A few hours later, the bus was found in the Claxton community.
The Knoxville Police Department's auto theft division is now investigating the case, KPD spokesman Darrell DeBusk said early Wednesday afternoon. The 72-passenger bus was taken to the KPD impoundment lot.
According to an Anderson County Sheriff's Department report, a Claxton man contacted the Sheriff's Department and told deputies he had bought the bus from a man on Prosser Road in Knox County at approximately 6:30 p.m. Tuesday. Prosser Road was also reportedly the place where the bus was stolen from.
He told officers he didn't know the man, but he had purchased a few buses from him over the last couple of years. He said when he found out the bus was stolen, he contacted deputies.
The person he bought the bus from was described as a black man, approximately 60 years old.
Donna Smith can be contacted at (865) 220-5502.


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Programming guidelines
Programming guidelines shall help to make the code of a project better readable and maintainable by the varying number of contributors.
It takes some programming experience to develop something like a personal "coding style" and guidelines only serve as rough shape for code. Guidelines should be followed by all members working on the project even if they prefer (or are already used to) different guidelines.
These guidelines have been originally set up for the hets-project hets-project and are now put on the HaskellWiki gradually integrating parts of the old hawiki entries ThingsToAvoid and HaskellStyle (hopefully not hurting someone's copyrights). The other related entry TipsAndTricks treats more specific points that are left out here,
Surely some style choices are a bit arbitrary (or "religious") and too restrictive with respect to language extensions. Nevertheless I hope to keep up these guidelines (at least as a basis) for our project in order to avoid maintaining diverging guidelines. Of course I want to supply - partly tool-dependent - reasons for certain decisions and also show alternatives by possibly bad examples. At the time of writing I use ghc-6.4.1, haddock-0.7 and (GNU-) emacs with the latest haskell mode.
The following quote and links are taken from HaskellStyle:
We all have our own ideas about good Haskell style. There's More Than One Way To Do It. But some ways are better than others.
Some comments from the GHC team about their internal coding standards can be found at http://hackage.haskell.org/trac/ghc/wiki/WorkingConventions
Also http://research.microsoft.com/~simonpj/papers/haskell-retrospective/ contains some brief comments on syntax and style,
What now follows are descriptions of program documentation, file format, naming conventions and good programming practice (adapted form Matt's C/C++ Programming Guidelines and the Linux kernel coding style).
- 1 Documentation
- 2 File Format
- 3 Naming Conventions
- 4 Good Programming Practice
- 5 Style in other languages
- 6 Final remarks
Comments are to be written in application terms (i.e. user's point of view). Don't use technical terms - that's what the code is for!
Comments should be written using correct spelling and grammar in complete sentences with punctation (in English only).
"Generally, you want your comments to tell WHAT your code does, not HOW. Also, try to avoid putting comments inside a function body: if the function is so complex that you need to separately comment parts of it, you should probably" (... decompose it)
Put a haddock comment on top of every exported function and data type! Make sure haddock accepts these comments.
File Format
All Haskell source files start with a haddock header of the form:
{- | Module : <File name or $Header$ to be replaced automatically> Description : <optional short text displayed on contents page> Copyright : (c) <Authors or Affiliations> License : <license> Maintainer : <email> Stability : unstable | experimental | provisional | stable | frozen Portability : portable | non-portable (<reason>) <module description starting at first column> -}
A possible compiler pragma (like {-# LANGUAGE CPP #-}) may precede this header. The following hierarchical module name must of course match the file name.
Make sure that the description is changed to meet the module (if the header was copied from elsewhere). Insert your email address as maintainer.
Try to write portable (Haskell98) code. If you use i.e. multi-parameter type classes and functional dependencies the code becomes "non-portable (MPTC with FD)".
The \$Header\$ entry will be automatically expanded.
Lines should not be longer than 80 (preferably 75) characters to avoid wrapped lines (for casual readers)!
Don't leave trailing white space in your code in every line.
Expand all your tabs to spaces to avoid the danger of wrongly expanding them (or a different display of tabs versus eight spaces). Possibly put something like the following in your ~/.emacs file.
(custom-set-variables '(indent-tabs-mode nil))
The last character in your file should be a newline! Under solaris you'll get a warning if this is not the case and sometimes last lines without newlines are ignored (i.e. "#endif" without newline). Emacs usually asks for a final newline.
You may use http://hackage.haskell.org/package/scan to check your file format.
The whole module should not be too long (about 400 lines)
Naming Conventions
In Haskell types start with capital and functions with lowercase letters, so only avoid infix identifiers! Defining symbolic infix identifiers should be left to library writers only.
(The infix identifier "\\" at the end of a line causes cpp preprocessor problems.)
Names (especially global ones) should be descriptive and if you need long names write them as mixed case words (aka camelCase). (but "tmp" is to be preferred over "thisVariableIsATemporaryCounter")
Also in the standard libraries, function names with multiple words are written using the camelCase convention. Similarly, type, typeclass and constructor names are written using the StudlyCaps convention.
Some parts of our code use underlines (without unnecessary uppercase letters) for long identifiers to better reflect names given with hyphens in the requirement documentation. Also such names should be transliterated to camlCase identifiers possibly adding a (consistent) suffix or prefix to avoid conflicts with keywords. However, instead of a recurring prefix or suffix you may consider to use qualified imports and names.
Good Programming Practice
"Functions should be short and sweet, and do just one thing. They should fit on one or two screenfuls of text (the ISO/ANSI screen size is 80x24, as we all know), and do one thing and do that well."
Most haskell functions should be at most a few lines, only case expression over large data types (that should be avoided, too) may need corresponding space.
The code should be succinct (though not obfuscated), readable and easy to maintain (after unforeseeable changes). Don't exploit exotic language features without good reason.
It's not fixed how deep you indent (4 or 8 chars). You can break the line after "do", "let", "where", and "case .. of". Make sure that renamings don't destroy your layout. (If you get to far to the right, the code is unreadable anyway and needs to be decomposed.)
case foo of Foo -> "Foo" Bar -> "Bar"
case <longer expression> of Foo -> "Foo" Bar -> "Bar"
Avoid the notation with braces and semicolons since the layout rule forces you to properly align your alternatives.
Respect compiler warnings. Supply type signatures, avoid shadowing and unused variables. Particularly avoid non-exhaustive and overlapping patterns. Missing unreachable cases can be filled in using "error" with a fixed string "<ModuleName>.<function>" to indicate the error position (in case the impossible should happen). Don't invest time to "show" the offending value, only do this temporarily when debugging the code.
Don't leave unused or commented-out code in your files! Readers don't know what to think of it.
Case expressions
Prefer case expressions over pattern binding declarations with multiple equations.
Not always nice:
longFunctionName (Foo: _ : _) = e1 longFunctionName (Bar: _) = e2
longFunctionName arg = case arg of Foo : _ : _ -> e1 Bar : _ -> e2 _ -> error "ProgrammingGuidelines.longFunctionName"
In http://research.microsoft.com/~simonpj/papers/haskell-retrospective/ the first example is said to be written in declaration style. The equations look like written for a rewrite system (although their order matters of course).
But this declarative style is only nice for toy examples and annoying if functions are renamed or if the number of arguments changes.
The other extreme (according to SPJ) is expression style:
longFunctionName = \ arg -> ...
We don't propose this style either. We propose to use as much pattern matching (including as-patterns) on a single left-hand-side as appropriate.
However, the expression style with a lambda term may come in handy, when setting record fields of a function type.
We avoid lambda expressions if this is easily possibly using the Prelude functions const, flip, curry, uncurry or section notation or plain partial application. We do not indroduce an auxiliary function only to avoid the lambda, though.
Partial functions
For partial functions do document their preconditions (if not obvious) and make sure that partial functions are only called when preconditions are obviously fulfilled (i.e. by a case statement or a previous test). Particularly the call of "head" should be used with care or (even better) be made obsolete by a case statement.
Usually a case statement (and the import of isJust and fromJust from Data.Maybe) can be avoided by using the "maybe" function:
maybe (error "<ModuleName>.<function>") id $ Map.lookup key map
Generally we require you to be more explicit about failure cases. Surely a missing (or an irrefutable) pattern would precisely report the position of a runtime error, but these are not so obvious when reading the code.
Let or where expressions
Do avoid mixing and nesting "let" and "where". (I prefer the expression-stylistic "let".) Use auxiliary top-level functions that you do not export. Export lists also support the detection of unused functions.
Code reuse
If you notice that you're doing the same task again, try to generalize it in order to avoid duplicate code. It is frustrating to change the same error in several places.
Application notation
Many parentheses can be eliminated using the infix application operator "$" with lowest priority. Try at least to avoid unnecessary parentheses in standard infix expression.
f x : g x ++ h x
a == 1 && b == 1 || a == 0 && b == 0
Rather than putting a large final argument in parentheses (with a distant closing one) consider using "$" instead.
"f (g x)" becomes "f $ g x" and consecutive applications "f (g (h x))" can be written as "f $ g $ h x" or "f . g $ h x".
A function definition like "f x = g $ h x" can be abbreviated to "f = g . h".
Note that the final argument may even be an infix- or case expression:
map id $ c : l
filter (const True) . map id $ case l of ...
However, be aware that $-terms cannot be composed further in infix expressions.
Probably wrong:
f $ x ++ g $ x
But the scope of an expression is also limited by the layout rule, so it is usually safe to use "$" on right hand sides.
do f $ l ++ do g $ l
Of course "$" can not be used in types. GHC has also some primitive functions involving the kind "#" that cannot be applied using "$".
Last warning: always leave spaces around "$" (and other mixfix operators) since a clash with template haskell is possible.
(Also write "\ t" instead of "\t" in lambda expressions)
List Comprehensions
Use these only when "short and sweet". Prefer map, filter, and foldr!
Instead of:
[toUpper c | c <- s]
map toUpper s
[toUpper c | s <- strings, c <- s]
Here it takes some time for the reader to find out which value depends on what other value and it is not so clear how many times the interim values s and c are used. In contrast to that the following can't be clearer:
map toUpper (concat strings)
When using higher order functions you can switch easier to data structures different from list. Compare:
map (1+) list
Set.map (1+) set
Prefer proper data types over type synonyms or tuples even if you have to do more constructing and unpacking. This will make it easier to supply class instances later on. Don't put class constraints on a data type, constraints belong only to the functions that manipulate the data.
Using type synonyms consistently is difficult over a longer time, because this is not checked by the compiler. (The types shown by the compiler may be unpredictable: i.e. FilePath, String or [Char])
Take care if your data type has many variants (unless it is an enumeration type.) Don't repeat common parts in every variant since this will cause code duplication.
Bad (to handle arguments in sync):
data Mode f p = Box f p | Diamond f p
Good (to handle arguments only once):
data BoxOrDiamond = Box | Diamond
data Mode f p = Mode BoxOrDiamond f p
Consider (bad):
data Tuple a b = Tuple a b | Undefined
versus (better):
data Tuple a b = Tuple a b
and using:
Maybe (Tuple a b)
(or another monad) whenever an undefined result needs to be propagated
For (large) records avoid the use of the constructor directly and remember that the order and number of fields may change.
Take care with (the rare case of) depend polymorphic fields:
data Fields a = VariantWithTwo { field1 :: a , field2 :: a }
The type of a value v can not be changed by only setting field1:
v { field1 = f }
Better construct a new value:
VariantWithTwo { field1 = f } -- leaving field2 undefined
Or use a polymorphic element that is instantiated by updating:
empty = VariantWithTwo { field1 = [], field2 = [] }
empty { field1 = [f] }
Several variants with identical fields may avoid some code duplication when selecting and updating, though possibly not in a few depended polymorphic cases.
However, I doubt if the following is a really good alternative to the above data Mode with data BoxOrDiamond.
data Mode f p = Box { formula :: f, positions :: p } | Diamond { formula :: f, positions :: p }
Try to strictly separate IO, Monad and pure (without do) function programming (possibly via separate modules).
x <- return y ...
let x = y ...
Don't use Prelude.interact and make sure your program does not depend on the (not always obvious) order of evaluation. I.e. don't read and write to the same file:
This will fail:
do s <- readFile f writeFile f $ 'a' : s
because of lazy IO! (Writing is starting before reading is finished.)
Tracing is for debugging purposes only and should not be used as feedback for the user. Clean code is not cluttered by trace calls.
Standard library modules like Char. List, Maybe, Monad, etc should be imported by their hierarchical module name, i.e. the base package (so that haddock finds them):
import Data.List import Control.Monad import System.Environment
The libraries for Set and Map are to be imported qualified:
import qualified Data.Set as Set import qualified Data.Map as Map
Glasgow extensions and Classes
Stay away from extensions as long as possible. Also use classes with care because soon the desire for overlapping instances (like for lists and strings) may arise. Then you may want MPTC (multi-parameter type classes), functional dependencies (FD), undecidable and possibly incoherent instances and then you are "in the wild" (according to SPJ).
Style in other languages
Final remarks
Despite guidelines, writing "correct code" (without formal proof support yet) still remains the major challenge. As motivation to follow these guidelines consider the points that are from the "C++ Coding Standard", where I replaced "C++" with "Haskell".
Good Points:
- programmers can go into any code and figure out what's going on
- new people can get up to speed quickly
- people new to Haskell are spared the need to develop a personal style and defend it to the death
- people new to Haskell are spared making the same mistakes over and over again
- people make fewer mistakes in consistent environments
- programmers have a common enemy :-)
Bad Points:
- the standard is usually stupid because it was made by someone who doesn't understand Haskell
- the standard is usually stupid because it's not what I do
- standards reduce creativity
- standards are unnecessary as long as people are consistent
- standards enforce too much structure
- people ignore standards anyway


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