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Where Worlds Collide
After years of stagnation, Ice and Mixed climbing take an evolutionary leap forward on Helmcken Falls.
Thirty years of ice climbing; that's how long I've been at it. I was pondering retiring this year—30 years is just enough, really—but then I found the future of ice climbing: Helmcken Falls. I know it's the future because I have lived the past.
In 1983 I climbed my first multi-pitch ice route, the Weeping Wall, with my dad. In 1984 I toproped thin overhanging ice smears in New Hampshire's Flume area, and loved the technical movement; scraping a tool along a clear smear was just right somehow. In 1985 I soloed a broken-off icicle in Maligne Canyon, Alberta. I could just get one tool into the ice stub and desperately campused the opening moves—figure-fours hadn't yet been invented. Later that year Ken Wallator and I climbed Polar Circus in -30 temps. Polar Circus was the testpiece of its era and I had only ice climbed perhaps 30 days total. Still, the crux was simply staying warm. I was 18 and wanted my ice and rock climbs to take everything I had to give; to be genuinely hard enough to break me. I wasn't finding that challenge on ice in the 1980s, an era when people were climbing under seracs and on ever-thinner free-standing pillars. Pushing the envelope back then was dangerous, but danger does not make difficulty. I wanted big grades and desperate pumps, not just loaded-dice terror. Any 5.12 rock climber could, on his first day, toprope any ice climb ever. Or so it looked in my black-and-white world at age 18. I quit ice climbing and took up sport climbing and the acid-test of competitions.
In 1994 I quit hard sport climbing for much the same reasons I had quit ice climbing: I couldn't see a future. Onsighting another letter grade harder was no longer interesting, and I was sick of living on rice cakes and mustard. Then I saw a photo of Jeff Lowe on Octopussy. I'd met Jeff through sport-climbing comps (there isn't one sector of climbing Jeff hasn't excelled in or helped create), and immediately called him for more information. Octopussy looked cool, and genuinely hard. At that same time I also started climbing with Mark Twight, who would drag me off on alpine epics, a game Jeff was over, instead stoked to reinvent mixed climbing. I was searching for new meaning in climbing, and Jeff and Mark both had their versions. Jeff's won because it was more interesting, although I enjoyed the epic debates I had with Mark, who argued that ice was an aesthetic experience, not just about pulling hard. It pains me to admit this, but ultimately he would be proven right.
Jeff Lowe and I climbed out a gaping cleft high above the buzzing traffic of Glenwood Canyon in Colorado in 1996. The route was typical Lowe. Practically every ice climber in Western North America had driven by it, but somehow no one had seen what was the best natural mixed line of the decade. We didn't know how special and good Deep Throat really was; and if it had waited undiscovered right off the highway then surely there were lines like it everywhere, lines out endless rows of hanging stalactites that involved as much mind-ripping ice climbing as drytooling, that pushed you to the limit on natural gear. Surely!
A week later, belayed by Jeff, I sent Amphibian, the world's first M9 (with the caveat that Helgi Christianson was really the one responsible for Amphibian; he saw it, I just figured out how to bolt it and climb it before he did.) Long stretches of drytooling led to wild icicle encounters, and our minds were flung open. The first half of the route doesn't even have ice, but it didn't matter—a heretical idea back then. The object was to connect the drools of ice into a coherent line. "M" ratings, another product of Jeff's mind, were expanding rapidly. The following season I climbed Reptile, M9+, which had basically no ice on the pitch and which other climbers rated M10 despite that grade not yet existing.
The trend was already clear; mixed climbing was drying up, but if the routes were becoming dryer, the energy for the climbing was exploding. I spent a fantastic decade traveling the world and climbing ever-harder mixed lines, which at that point were a nasty mix of engineering, free climbing and willful self-inflicted damage. Every place I went I searched for the next Deep Throat: I didn't find it.
Ben Firth and I also realized that at a certain point hard drytooling could and was being reduced to something less hard through chipping intermediate holds. Ice climbers chip their way up ice routes, and the same thing was happening on rock, if not by the first-ascent party then by those who followed. Firth's The Game was an ode to the game of ego and style we were playing. Technology regressed with spurs, leg hooks on tools, and other trickery that reduced any route to a series of rests. My love of hard mixed climbing temporarily died the day I hung by my spurs and smoked a cigar in the Cineplex in the Canadian Rockies. I needed a new game, and found it by cutting off the heel spurs and climbing harder. But it was a brief fling, like a reunion with an old girlfriend that is great only because of the history.
I did find glacial ice caves, beautiful tubes and overhanging swells that remain when the rivers that sculpt the ancient ice disappears in winter. The climbing is overhanging, powerful and wild, and for a while it was a grail to me. But to climb on terrain past about 29 degrees overhanging, you have to carve peg-board-style incuts since the top of your picks simply lever out of the ice at that angle. I also had a few close calls with collapsing caves. Then my friend Hari Berger died when a cave collapsed on him on the same day his wife went into labor with their first child. I couldn't stomach the stuff anymore and quit. No future.
In 2006 I returned to the roots of ice climbing and started chasing big-game frozen waterfalls in Norway. They aren't as hard technically as drytooling, but Norway had first ascents that were steeper, wilder and longer than anything in North America—and they weren't under seracs, and they took everything Andreas Spak and I had to get up them. Fresh, hard ice requires swinging and swinging; tools with light heads bounce, and climbers raised on a diet of hooking up climbed-out routes quickly realize there's a world of difference between following a well-broken trail up a route and putting one in. Only one of the big routes Spak and I climbed has ever been repeated. The ultimate measure of a climb is the quality of its line, and Norwegian ice climbs have the best lines on the planet. No scattering of pockets on rock can compare to 2,000-plus feet of blue stripe into the sky. It was back to the past, and I accepted that I would never find my dream cave with hundreds of feet of icicles.
Then in 2008 I saw a photo of Helmcken Falls. A climber had taken it and captioned it, "The spray that turns to hoarfrost on the overhanging amphitheatre wall could probably be climbed to give a really hard route." That statement was both prescient and a massive understatement. For two seasons I tried to entice friends to make the eight-hour drive. They would look at the photo and say, "Doesn't look that big, not much ice." Excuses were made, action avoided, and Helmcken remained untouched.
In 2010 I destroyed my body during another trip to Norway for its addictive, aesthetic (Yeah, Mark, I know now) ice and a 24-hour climbing effort at the Ouray Ice Festival. After 30 years I was starting to run out of new things to do with ice climbing. Icebergs, ice mines (underground ice climbing), huge new routes in Norway and Canada—what next? As hints of spring popped I moped around the house feeling old, injured and surly. A late-night internet surf brought me back to the Helmcken Falls photo, and coincidentally I got an email from my good friend Tim Emmett, who wanted to go climbing. I called a few local friends to see if they wanted to join us in a mission to Helmcken, but as usual none felt it worthy.
If you want to do something wildly difficult, dangerous and fun, Emmett is the ideal partner. I met him during the 2000 ice-climbing World Cup, and nearly died when he enticed me into doing an inverted tequila stuntman from the second-story roof of a bar in Austria. I fell headfirst toward a sea of half-full beer glasses, but Emmett somehow managed to rotate me just enough so I only broke a couple of ribs and several hundred Euros worth of bar glasses. He's a good partner.
Besides being versed in stunts, Emmett has done enough Scottish climbing to believe you could climb frost-caked walls. Ten hours after he arrived in Canmore we stood at the tourist viewpoint overlooking the top of Helmcken Falls. It was a cool waterfall for sure, but rather underwhelming—not that big, and with not that much ice on the back wall, maybe only 30 feet. Still, we had to check it out after the drive.
Tim bounced through the snowy woods for a better look. When we rounded the corner on the buttress that guards the entrance to the cave behind the falls, we both just sat and stared. What we had thought was 30 feet of ice was 10 times that. The cave was so huge a skilled Cessna pilot could fly around the falls with room to spare. Icicles formed by mist from the falls dangled everywhere, but what really blew our minds was the strange white ice smeared on the overhanging rock.
"Mate, it's a bit like the World Cup, isn't it?" said Tim, noting that the wall behind the falls was similar to ice-comp routes where they use a snow-making machine and a hose to spray overhanging scaffolding and form ice. We'd just found the natural equivalent on a much larger scale.
Our path in was blocked by fantastical icicles many meters high. I tapped the first one, and it ripped off and sent us scurrying like mice. We started throwing rocks at the icicles and realized that this ice was less stable and more aerated than normal. There were a few places where the ice was plastered directly on the gently overhanging lower wall. I swung my tool into it and "thunk"—it was good, and I knew instantly that for me ice climbing would never again be the same.
It took us almost an hour to scramble from the edge of the cave to a position directly behind the waterfall, where two things were notable: First, it was dry because a giant ice cone blocked most of the spray, and second, the entire ceiling of the cave bristled with icicles for hundreds of feet. Tons of them. I was reminded of the classic scene in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom where spikes come out of the ceiling and Jones says, "This is serious!" Indeed, broken-off icicles were scattered across the ground like ancient marble ruins.
For once Tim had few words, and his normal wagging demeanor was replaced by the look my dog used to give me when I tried to get him in the canoe. I could tell Tim didn't see how we could climb through the icicles, much less protect them, and to be honest I didn't either. After lunch I tentatively pounded a Spectre into the soft ice, but it did not inspire confidence. A screw was completely useless in the frozen ice meringue. I searched for cracks, but the compact volcanic lava flow didn't have any. There really was just one solution for pro, and soon a power drill whirred against a backbeat of falling water.
I bouldered 10 feet up, clipped a draw into my waist loop, hooked into an ice tool, and cautiously hung from it. Tim gave his best gritstone belay as I placed a bolt in a small patch of bare rock. Ten feet higher I felt more confident. This time I clipped into both tools and hung. Suddenly I launched into the air with the drill still running in my hand. Smacking back into the wall knocked the wind out of me, but I was thankful I hadn't drilled myself a new porthole.
"Nice one, mate," said Tim. "You've got it now!" Back up I went.
A pattern emerged: Knock off the huge, lethal icicles, climb the remaining stubs, find bare rock, drill a bolt, repeat. It sounds simple, except that you have to bash the icicles while you are locked off with one arm, and direct them so they don't catch you or your rope. While it was clear that the climbing was going to be amazing, after 60 feet I'd had enough and lowered, touching down 30 feet out from the wall. I walked back to Tim, stepping over the carcasses of icicles I'd killed, being careful to keep the relatively safe, cleaned strip of ceiling directly over my head. We were learning.
The next day Tim was up for battle and despite having only ever placed a few bolts, he was he soon hanging off his tools on the sharp end and getting the job done. This pattern would repeat itself over and over during our trips to the cave; one person would reach his limit, and the other would step up. Tim stopped where the wall went from really overhanging to horizontal, and we could get a total no-hands rest stemming in an icy alcove. Time to climb! Then the temperature went from a few degrees below freezing to a few degrees above freezing, and icicles the size of tanker trucks started ripping off the ceiling and exploding onto the cave floor. We knew our little cleared area was relatively safe, so we huddled under it and watched the chaos. I've been humbled a lot in the mountains, but seldom felt so exposed. We left our gear and did a high-speed run over the rough terrain and out of the cave, continually looking up.
A year earlier I'd spent a week camping nearby in -30 temps to do the first ascent of Hunlen Falls. This time Tim and I drove 15 minutes to the Helmcken Falls Lodge, which for $120 offers a room with two beds, breakfast and two dinners. And they have cold beer. The owners, Andrew and Lynn, introduced themselves and asked if we were skiing.
"No, seriously, you're not climbing down there," they said. "That's mad!" We agreed, and had another beer with our cannelloni.
The next morning was just below freezing, so we went back in. The ice was softer from the previous day's warmth, but still climbable. Tim and I both managed to redpoint our pitch after failing due to a combination of pump, fear, ripping tools or (and I'm not making this up) taking too much time to trip out on the climbing to maintain upward progress.
It was the best single ice pitch I'd ever climbed. Technical, powerful, fun, intricate, steep and not one dry-tool move on the whole thing. As I clipped the chains on Spray On (WI 10) I gave a silent shout out to Jeff Lowe—we had found the dream. There were 10 different ways to do every move on the climb; no chipping, just climb the near-horizontal natural ice features. Unlike glacial ice, the broken- off icicle stubs allowed first-swing sticks. Spray On had everything I loved about ice climbing, but was technically really, really hard like mixed. This is what I'd wanted at age 18.
The forecast was for more warm weather. We stripped the draws and vowed to return with next year's first cold front. The trip out was another Indiana Jones adventure run, one we later took to calling the "commute from hell."
If the pictures of Spray On excited people, the grade pissed off just as many, especially in Europe. Tim and I gave the route the new rating of WI 10 because we felt that the climbing was at least as hard as M10 mixed: You don't have a hope of getting up it unless you can climb M10 and lead top-end water ice as well. Second, ice grades are increasingly irrelevant even as climbers strive for bigger numbers. For example, a couple of friends of mine climbed a new route in Austria and rated it WI 8, only to have it repeated and downgraded to WI 6. Ice grades higher than grade five are simply more about ego than reality. I've done dozens, maybe hundreds of the hardest ice routes in the world, but until then I'd not climbed anything harder than that broken-off icicle I did 30 years ago. Either I was the world's best ice climber at age 18, or the ice-climbing grading system is bullshit. I'm betting on the latter, and our grade was a straight poke in the eye of the hype monster.
As we drove home from Helmcken Falls, Tim and I considered the big problem we'd been avoiding: The spray ice would surely cover our bolts. When we returned next season to add more pitches, how would we find them? Putting in new bolts each year for the same climb just wasn't cool even for a prize this large. Various theories were advanced, from painting the bolts red to radio-frequency tags. We didn't have a good answer.
A warm summer passed and the level of hype and roar about the grade finally dropped with the temperatures. We both locked in the entire winter for a serious rematch, refusing speaking engagements and skating around work and family responsibilities, believing that if big-wave surfers could keep their schedules open to chase waves, we could do the same for ice.
Helmcken Falls sits right on the border between the cold continental air mass and the relatively warm Pacific air mass. The average winter temperature is 23 degrees Fahrenheit, but the temperature can swing dramatically depending on which air pushes in. Normal ice lasts for days in warm temps, but the spray ice is less insulative and pops off the rock surprisingly quickly.
The fall was unseasonably warm in Canmore, yet I needed to be ready for action the day Helmcken Falls came into shape. I tilted my plywood "ice" wall 45 degrees overhanging and trained on it until I could do 10 laps straight without resting. One-handed Tabata intervals made my shoulders ache, and I pulled off a hard front lever for the first time since 2008. Still, no matter how hard I trained I didn't believe I'd be able to climb the even steeper terrain above Spray On, through the remaining cave at Helmcken Falls.
Andrew at the Falls Lodge finally emailed in early January and said the ice was in. Within three days we had a crew from across North America assembled at the falls. I wanted to make a film about climbing Helmcken and asked the filmmaker Josh Lowell if he was interested. Filming would be easy, I said. No, he didn't need any special skills. Josh hadn't worn crampons much at all, and his brother, Brett, who would also come out to shoot, was even less experienced on ice. Perfect. They bought tickets and my photographer friend Christian Pondella who was supposed to shoot supermodels in Iceland (he seriously does that kind of thing), cancelled that gig to show up.
Our first view of the cave from the viewpoint was mind-blowing; there was 10 times as much ice as the year before! Our first order of business was to re-climb to our high point, but it took us almost 30 minutes just to find a bolt on the wall. So much ice had formed that the floor of the cave was 15 feet higher than it had been the year before, and most of the bolts were buried under the ice. We had known this was going to be a problem; chipping the ice off randomly to find the bolts would take days.
Josh looked at me and said, "Ah, how is this going to work?"
I pulled a metal detector out of my pack. Beep, Problem solved.
The second pitch is just steep for about 15 feet, then dead horizontal for another 20 feet, but that wasn't apparent when we started bolting it. An upside-down pincushion of icicles blocked our path and we had to break our way through them. Tim and I came up short searching for analogies to describe the upside-down icicle forest, but we dubbed it The Death Star.
A rhythm soon developed: Clean off huge icicles in spasms of destruction, climb a few moves, clip into a precarious tool, clean to the rock, bolt. The third pitch was more horizontal, and took another two days to bolt. We did relatively short pitches (20 to 30) feet due to rope drag around the icicles, belaying on a rock step or on a big icicle where we could get a no-hands rest. Soon our line out the ceiling began to look like an inverted trail through an ice forest.
While we climbed, Christian and Josh shot for about an hour from a location near the side of the cave, then relocated. Minutes later their tracks were covered with car-sized blocks of ice.
After a week we had pulled the lip of the cave in five pitches. The temperatures were rising again, and the forecast was for even warmer days. After we had both climbed the first and second pitch again, Tim and I decided that the best option was to team free the rest of the pitches to at least get them all done, then improve on that style if we had time. I was slated for the fourth pitch. For the lower cave pitches we developed a new belay technique where the leader would climb a pitch, then at the anchor he pulled the rope through while the belayer walked out on the flat ice floor of the cave to belay the next pitch. We used an 80-meter 9.2 rope to make all this work.
I jugged a fixed line to the start of my pitch and told Tim and Josh that I'd just have a look at the hard climbing, then move some bolts that were in the wrong places and pull up a fixed line for Josh to shoot down from the top of the pitch for the redpoint effort. But even though I'd bolted some of the pitch, and knew the bolts were in the wrong place, I suddenly saw a line, and just had to climb it. Some switch in my head flipped and it was game on. Before long I'd climbed too far to back down. Tim knew what was up right away, and the look on his face on the ground far below told me to get after it. Kneebars on ice stalactites led to campusing up one-inch ice that should have ripped, which led to milking a rest on a 40-foot icicle that should have broken. When you see the potential for a dream to become real you do not back down. In several places a fall would have resulted in a leg-breaking swing into a massive icicle only to have the icicle break off and hit you like a 10-ton baseball bat.
It was risky, but I fought through to the belay, and the pitch was the best I had ever done. Deep Throat, Norway, the Flume, Musashi, my plywood ice wall, it all added up to only just being able to do that one pitch. Satisfaction is normally momentary, but the buzz from that pitch would last weeks.
Tim whooped in his English accent, and to his credit, Josh merely said, "Well, I was totally unprepared for that. Nice. Could you do it again for video?"
Tim is a natural-born grappler, but his pitch, the third, had some new moves to teach him. Tim fought a horrendous game of inverted Twister, throwing figure 8s, 9s, and 11s (I'd never seen that one before) while fighting for tool placements in the delicate ice. Just as he was about to reach a no-hands rest, his tool ripped. It's not enough to be strong, you also have to climb the spray ice carefully. Tim took a long rest, settled down, and sent. That night we vibrated from both the exertion and the joy of the climbing, but once again the temperatures were rising.
We just had time to finish the fifth pitch and strip our gear before a warm rain put the fear of falling ice in us again. The circus scattered.
But then it got cold again. For a week I watched the daily highs and lows from three weather stations in a triangle around Helmcken Falls, and finally emailed Tim. Although my wife was due with our second child in two weeks, she simply said, "Go." Tim spent $1,000 changing plane tickets. My good friend from Canmore, EJ Plimley, took one look at Pondella's photos and was ready in an instant despite having a new job.
EJ was the first dedicated ice climber that Tim and I had brought to our "secret" area, and it was his reaction to the cave that confirmed our feelings. It took him over an hour to settle down when he saw the monstrous icy maw. I'd told him it took five minutes to walk from the front to the back of the cavern behind the falls at a steady pace, but he didn't believe me until it took him 10 minutes. EJ tried the first pitch repeatedly and exclaimed, "Dude. You've been totally understating this whole place. This is the best ice climbing ever!"
Amazingly, the ice had not only survived the warm snap, but was building everywhere in a mist of ice droplets. We wanted to push our line to the top of the cave, 450 vertical feet above the ground, but at least twice that distance when measured from the back of the cave. It took a full day just to get the quickdraws up. Once we did that, Tim climbed the fourth pitch, then sprinted out the cave to catch a flight to England. I redpointed the third pitch after Tim left. While it wasn't perfect style, we had both at least climbed all the pitches; the priority became pushing the line higher, which EJ and I tried to do the next day.
The climbing on the upper headwall is only about 30 degrees overhanging, and we made quick progress until the spray shifted and caught us. Thanks to a large "volcano" spray catcher, the cave is normally dry, but we had gotten high enough to reach the spray cloud. Soon I was encased in a shell of ice, and we packed it in before becoming seasonal fixtures on the wall.
As an afterthought and to make a point that there is room for routes at all difficulty, EJ and I quickly bolted two short pitches on the side of the cave as darkness loomed. Both are easier than WI 5, but climb beautiful spray ice for 60 feet. As I lowered off from the FA, my rope knocked off a football-sized chunk of ice that smacked me in the leg so hard I thought it was broken. EJ lowered me, and I lay on the icy ground twitching and whining until it was clear my femur wasn't broken after all. After sending down so many tons of icicles I'd gotten slightly casual, and nearly paid dearly for it. But at least there are two pitches easier than WI 10, and the potential is there for dozens more routes. I expect the Helmcken Falls Lodge will be busy next winter, and for decades to come. The past invents the future.
Will Gadd is a Senior Contributing Editor for Rock and Ice, and is now the proud father of his second child, Rose.


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subset: commoncrawl


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Friday, November 18, 2011
Your worst sick story
Help me out. Tell me your WORST story about you or a coworker calling in sick. Like how you called in sick and then your chief resident drove to your house and beat you to a bloody pulp.
34 comments:
At the company I worked at before I went to med school, my friend's wife was pregnant and due any day. One morning she called in and told him that she was in labor and going to the hospital. My friend's manager refused to let him go, and threatened to fire him if he did. It wasn't as though he was performing some vital function either, or that there was nobody available to cover for him, the company just had a "no sick days ever" policy and really would fire you if you took too many (I had a friend who took 4 days off one year for migraines who got the axe over it. If you took even one day, they'd bring it up as something you could "improve upon" at your year end review.).ReplyDelete
My friend (the one with the baby) subsequently had an outbreak of shingles and couldn't touch his wife or new baby for the next 2-3 weeks, so I guess the manager got what he wanted after all.
- AnonymousNovember 18, 2011 at 8:43 AM
I don't have a story, but only because I can't imagine ever calling in sick during med school or residency. Unthinkable, seriously unthinkable, unless maybe you had been admitted to the hospital. In which case you still might be expected to round on yourself.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 18, 2011 at 8:47 AM
(Anon here from above)ReplyDelete
I do, however, remember the chief resident on the ortho service whose wife paged him when her water broke with their second baby. He was in the OR and insisted on finishing the case, a routine fracture repair for which we had a resident, PA, and med student scrubbed in, in addition to the chief and attending. He returned to round on patients while his wife was in labor. Two days later, when she and the baby were ready for discharge, he drove them home on his lunch break and came back in the afternoon. I think he was gone for an hour.
So call this guy and tell him I'm calling in sick because of a GI virus? Um, yeah.
- AnonymousNovember 18, 2011 at 9:54 AM
P.S. to my original Big Name Clinic story. I confronted the office manager after my dental episode and told her she gave me too much unnecessary grief. Her answer: "If you think Big Name Clinic is an easy place to work, it is not." I hear now after having lost 3 out of 4 originally hired internists, the executive team keeps questioning why are internists so unhappy in this place. But then again the Clinic looses its entire neurosurgery department every 2 years. So, some never learn.ReplyDelete
As a med student on internal medicine, I caught a really nasty cold that progressed to an ear infection/tonsillitis. Because I wanted to get into an internal medicine residency, I persevered with going to work until I hit the point of not being able to get out of bed, and I ended up missing 5 days of work because I was so sick. When I got my final evaluation for the rotation, one of the comments said "Rotation was noteworthy for a significant number of absences", no mention that the absences were due to me being unable to move. I challenged the attending on the evaluation, but he refused to change it (or even add in mention of the fact that the absences were due to being sick).ReplyDelete
A fellow resident (in another program) was recently sick enough to have to be in the emerg for 24 hours before being DCed to home. Despite the emerg doc phoning the resident's program to say that she would require at least a week off, the chief resident came by her house the next day to make sure that she was "legitimately sick".
OK, none of mine are that bad...I was on night float over Thanksgiving my third year of residency. On Thanksgiving Day I had a bad cold. Slept much of the day, woke up in time to have a little turkey and then went to work at 10:00 PM as scheduled (we had a sick call resident but she was skiing four hours away). During the night I developed worsening ear pain, headache and congestion, which I treated with Diet Coke and Sudafed and ibuprofen. By 5:30 AM I was sitting in the ER conference room with shaking chills and additional tremor from all the Sudafed and caffeine. One of the nurses came in, stuck a thermometer in my ear, and showed me the screen: 103.ReplyDelete
I waited until 6:30 and called the admitting resident, who was due to pick up the pager at 9:00 AM, after conference. I asked him to come in early or at least skip conference, and he said "no" - and went on to add "and don't leave me any admissions to write up, either". This was one of my classmates.
My story should have a happy ending. The program director happened to walk in through the ED at 7:15 and the same nurse suggested he stop in and talk to me. He took one look at me, touched my forehead, and sent me home with instructions not to come back that night. I did as I was told - and on Monday was rewarded by a hissy fit from the classmate I'd called. Sigh.
- AnonymousNovember 18, 2011 at 12:20 PM
Sorry to burst your bubble. I called in sick once during residency because of a GI bug. I was an intern working a weekday shift in the ER. The third year resident on backup took my shift with no questions asked and though I couldn't pay her back, I offered to take her out to lunch and she still wouldn't have it. Now she's a great friend and a colleague with me at the same place we trained. In my program there are a handful of residents that always seem to be sick (one with a legit medical reason) and the other residents get whiny when they have to cross-cover. I tell them that if they were in a similar situation that the resident in question would have their back two times over (totally true).ReplyDelete
As an attending, I called in sick a couple of months ago because a raging sinus infection left me prostrate on the couch. I was scheduled to be in clinic in the afternoon. I emailed my boss and his secretary at 4 AM when I realized there was no way in hell I was going to be functional after having been awake all night unable to breathe. He called me a few hours later to make sure I was ok and didn't need antibiotics called in and said to come back when I felt better. A colleague covered for me and refuses to be paid back, either monetarily or by covering for her.
That is just one of the many benefits to having the best job in the world. :)
- AnonymousNovember 18, 2011 at 1:11 PM
surgical subspec resident became septic with a pharyngitis/tonisillitis thing and stayed in the ED for 24 hours getting iv abx. Chief of program called asking for definitive proof - even after the staff ER doc called and confirmed. After d/c to home for 5 days of ongoing treatment/rest the sick resident's chief of subspec department would call/txt page him 'hoping he was getting better' because it would be really bad to see him out and about and still not back at work (*/end thinly veiled threat). Being a junior he simply had to 'put up or shut up' as his staff attending told him.ReplyDelete
I have 2 stories. The first was during my 3rd year med school internal medicine clerkship. My oldest daughter had strep throat and my husband (who worked 2nd shift) had to leave for work at 3pm. At 2:30pm I left for home, after finishing all patient care tasks and getting the ok from the chief resident. At 4pm the chief of cardiology came looking for all the med students so they could listen to an interesting heart murmur. He was furious that I had left for home to care for a sick child. He gave me a "fail" for the rotation, although I appealed and was eventually passed.ReplyDelete
The second episode was the following year. I was on an outpatient rotation, and I had an ovarian cyst rupture. I waited until Friday clinic was over, then went to the ER and was admitted for laparoscopic surgery. I was discharged the following day (Saturday) and returned to work on Monday. I was still fatigued from the whole ordeal, so on Monday during my lunchtime I went out to my car to sleep. I set the alarm on my beeper and was back in clinic before lunchbreak was over. Nonetheless, somebody somehow knew I had snuck out to sleep and informed the attending. On the end of rotation evaluation, the only comment was, "sleeps when she should be working".
During my residency, my husband and I spent every single one of our vacation days at home caring for sick children (I have 3 kids, and one is accident-prone). When I finished residency and fellowship, he became the stay-at-home parent, to my great relief.
These are amazing. Keep 'em coming.ReplyDelete
I suffered a miscarriage during one of my M3 rotations. It was 4 am on an overnight, Friday-to-Saturday call during which I'd had no sleep and barely time to even sit down. I'd been in the hospital and running for a full 24 hours. I started bleeding (profusely) while doing an H&P on a consult patient. I immediately excused myself, found the chief-resident - who was having a non-work conversation with a colleague and kept holding her hand up to silence me when I tried to speak - and told her I was pregnant, bleeding, and heading to the ED. Her annoyed reply: "Well, you need to find Dr. Attending first and let him know. And I need you to tell me what you learned about this patient." I gave easily the worst case presentation in the history of presenting and, in tears, located my attending, who scowled, shrugged, and waved me off with a "Do what you have to."ReplyDelete
I had my post-call day (Saturday) off and, thankfully, was scheduled to have Sunday off as well. However, policy for this particular clerkship is that any missed call days must be made up or the clerkship repeated (yes, the WHOLE clerkship repeated) in the M4 year. I received an email from the clerkship director Saturday afternoon stating that my leaving at 4am - before 5am rounds - constituted an incomplete call shift. She was sorry for my loss, but could make no exceptions concerning the call shift rules. Sunday was my last chance to make that call day up before I took my shelf exam and moved on to my next rotation. So, I went to work on Sunday. I took my shelf on Monday. And I attended the mandatory am orientation and first pm clinic of my next clerkship on Tuesday.
I Honored both the clinical and examination portions of the clerkship, and got wonderful comments from my superiors, including that crappy chief and the unbudgeable director herself. But when I see either of them around the hospital these days, it's all I can do to keep my mouth shut around the harsh words that spring there at the memory of their gracelessness. If there is a word powerful to describe the whole, cold experience, I haven't found it yet.
I really hope all these jerks in your lives got/will get what is coming to them >:[ReplyDelete
Seriously. Some of these people are so cold! It amazes me that they are doctors.ReplyDelete
I know. Some of these stories are truly disgusting.ReplyDelete
- mamadocNovember 18, 2011 at 8:53 PM
All this being said, there are probably jerks like this in every field, not just ours.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 12:10 AM
My co-op resident had a miscarriage one day while on our NICU rotation, and called the chief to call out, and was told the pregnancy was over, so she has no excuse, and the chief would not call in back up. She went to work, bleeding, and extra depressed around all of the newborns.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 12:49 AM
During an ER shift as a PGY-2, I had an asthma attack. A fellow resident listened to my lungs, announced my wheezing, and had a nurse hook me up to a duoneb. During my nebs, the head of the ER came over and made me register as an ER patient, BUT NOT stop my shift. So I wrote my own chart on myself (I was literally my own Doctor), and got a few nebs in between seeing patients, and finishing the shift (2hours late of course, to make up for any personal time I took by getting nebs and filling out my own chart). The worst part was getting the bill from the ER! I had to pay $200 (which was a lot of $ for me as a resident with lots of med school debt and a baby), and saw the ER charged my insurance another $2000 to give me $5 worth of meds.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 12:56 AM
During my residency (recently) a lot of people did call hooked up to IVs. 1 guy had to be rushed to surgery during a call, but nobody gave him shit for needing back up... But they would have if he had called out earlier.ReplyDelete
Wow. I vote for Headstrong as the "winner". That's a truly disgusting way for anyone to treat a fellow human being.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 1:13 PM
on a sunday call for ob/gyn as a pgy-2, i started off the shift feeling okay, but by noon was vomiting every 10-15 minutes. i muddled along much of the afternoon, seeing patients in emerg and doing assessments in l&d triage (history - barf - exam - barf - plan - barf - call staff - you get the picture). finally, around 5 or 6, i worked up the nerve to ask my staff (who was in house, watching movies in his call room) if i could pass him my pager for a couple of hours to rest and rehydrate. without even a pause for consideration, the reply was - 'who would see the patients?'. i wound up with a saline lock that i hooked up to an iv bag whenever i got a spare moment to sit down and a dose of zofran from a kindly emerg doc who took pity on me.ReplyDelete
more dramatically, a resident in my program was on call friday/sunday. his wife went into labour friday night and delivered late saturday afternoon. the general vibe from the staff and chief was that he should have 'planned better' (i.e. psychically known when his wife would go into labour) and would not let him off the hook. another resident had 3 (yes, 3) miscarriages over her pgy-3 year, and happened to be on call with each one. she bled down to a hemoglobin of 60 with her third (we checked in the am) and the only response from the staff was 'huh, i thought that she was being lazier than usual'.
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 4:04 PM
I'm a med student in the UK and I'm somewhat amazed by these stories. I'm in London, i.e. the top 5 schools in the country, and I know people from all of them. (I don't mean to boast but it's relevant.)ReplyDelete
We have 3 clinical years unlike 2 in the US. In the 1st year, you really don't need to show up at all and can still come in the top 10% of the year. You just need someone to sign a piece of paper once a month, and usually they don't even know who you are - just find them on a round and say "sign this please??" and they will do it without looking at you usually.
When I feel a bit woozy (mild headache) I just go home, nobody knows or cares. In our final clinical year it gets a bit stricter, as in you need to be seen in the hospital at least once a week. Obviously most people do want to be good doctors, so they come in more often than that, but it's mostly still based on trust.
Even when you graduate, most new doctors are paid until 5pm, so at 4.45 they finish up with the patient they are seeing, do a quick handover to the night shift and then go home. Though some places don't make you do night shifts until equivalent of PGY3.
A lot of my friends are doing the USMLE as our internships take 2 years whereas I believe yours are only 1. I think they will be in for a surprise if they get a place and cross the pond.
wow I just came across your blog and these stories are very sad! I can't believe how mean can people be and don't realize we all get sick!!ReplyDelete
I just came across your blog through another one about Pathologist Assistant which is what I'm planning on doing for grad school, although med school is still in the back of my mind but these stories are scary! I don't know how you all can do it with families and all that. Hats off to you.
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 5:07 PM
None of my stories are this bad yet, but I'm just a med student so maybe I will have more later. I did have one instance where I was coughing up blood, and my attending wouldn't let me go to the clinic, saying that "doctors don't have time to get sick." When I got lightheaded and nauseated, I finally told him I was going to see my doctor and I'd be back after getting some antibiotics. My doctor told me I was not allowed to go back and see patients, as I would infect them, and she called the attending. I took the rest of that day off but was in to work the next day. I have decided that if I am treated as badly as in some of the posts above, I will unapologetically leave the job I am in, or if necessary, the medical profession itself. There are just some limits that should not be crossed. We are all human beings and should be treated with basic respect for the most basic needs like sleep, food, going to the bathroom, and being sick. If I am sick, I will take a day off. And if supervisors fire me for that, then I should be in a different profession where I can be a person. This is what I have decided.ReplyDelete
To Anon from UK:ReplyDelete
Perhaps if med students were required to show up every day the first clinical year, UK students would also need only 2 years instead of 3. The way you describe it, that first year seems a huge waste.
Surely there's a happy medium between our crazy US schedule and yours.
- AnonymousNovember 19, 2011 at 9:12 PM
Well mine isn't so bad but I was on ICU in my 2nd to last month of my 3rd year of IM residency when I had a fetal demise. I missed a call my delivering my stillborn fetus and the resident who covered actually made me pay him backReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 21, 2011 at 12:12 AM
I think I got lucky to be in a good program, in a (mostly) nice specialty (FM). We had one resident who was out of country for some time - I actually ended up doing several more calls than she did but it wasn't worth getting upset about, that's just the way things work out sometimes. Another colleague had to have surgery but he could hardy help that and admin didn't give him a hard time about it - he wanted to come back early actually but we preferred him fully healed.ReplyDelete
However, we had a (real slacker) resident one year that missed a week of medicine for being "sick" ( very doubtful)... someone had to do all his work for the entire week.... IMHO by day 2 he should have had a hospital admission going on (at the very least, a doctor's note) or been at WORK like the rest of us. He definitely took advantage of a very laid-back program.
- AnonymousNovember 21, 2011 at 6:18 PM
Yikes -- I think I have it easy being in the friendly field of pediatrics, and mostly my colleagues have been great about covering when needed. However, I do have an example of harsh treatment when, as an intern, I had a horrible case of RSV. (Pediatrics residency is a huge risk factor for adult-onset RSV.) I was presenting my many new admits post-call and had to stop every couple minutes in my presentations to turn around and cough/hack harshly for 10-20 sec while everyone stood around waiting for me to continue. Finally, there was a break in our rounds, but I had one presentation left to give after the 20 minute break, and I could barely stand up. I turned to my senior resident and begged her to cover the last presentation so I could go home and recuperate. She shrugged and said no, I had to do it. (And here's where a surgeon would have complied, but a pediatrician can't take it. . . ) I ran off to the chief resident's office and sobbed about how sick I was and she agreed that I could go home to rest and cough in peace. So it does have a happy ending, although I still resent that older resident who wouldn't step up for me.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 22, 2011 at 11:56 PM
There are some powerful lessons in these stories that those of us at the beginning of our medical training (like me, a bright-eyed and bushy-tailed MS3) can keep in mind in the future. As interns, residents and attendings, we can all remember how we liked to be treated as trainees, and model the kindness we might not have been shown. I hope that as a resident supervising medical students or interns that I will allow a sick day or two, or take a pager for a few hours to allow a colleague to eat a meal or get an hour of rest, or give a presentation on rounds for someone if I see tears in the corners of his eyes. I completely refuse to buy into the idea that medical training must be cruel and inhumane, or that we must punish our trainees for unkindness that we experienced in their shoes.ReplyDelete
These sick day experiences are one facet of the grueling training that we go through. Even just in the first half of my 3rd year, I've experienced some incredibly kind and compassionate moments from residents and attendings, as well as some unbelievably rude behavior. On my medicine rotation, my resident watched me become unglued after an attending ripped into me during a presentation, she took me aside, sent me off to take care of some scut work, and told me I was doing an incredible job on the team otherwise. On Surgery, at attending berated me for two hours after missing a pimp question. When I have a choice about how to treat trainees, I will obviously choose the former.
- AnonymousNovember 24, 2011 at 4:54 PM
my junior resident (in neurology) developed acute appendicitis while on call last year. he ran himself through the CT scanner, then treated a stroke patient with tPA after holding a family meeting to explain the patient's critical situation. by the time he told the attending in the ER how sick he was and checked himself into a room, he was near rupture and needed an open laparotomy (WBCs near 30, temp >40). while the surgical resident was prepping the OR, another stroke came in and our resident got out of his bed to treat stroke #2! he called a chief for backup to complete his call (who was seriously irritated that don had the audacity to get sick). then, when his surgeon told him he was unable to return to work for 5 weeks, the general feeling in the department was that he was milking the situation. when he returned to the hospital, only half of the residents who had covered his calls did so for "free". the poor guy was q3 for the next month trying to make it up.ReplyDelete
for me, the worst it got was that i was on call while 8 months pregnant AND sick with the flu... i was sicker than most of the patients i treated that night!
- AnonymousNovember 27, 2011 at 6:43 AM
Wow, I'm not a Dr and these stories make me really glad about that (I'm a neuroscientist). WTF is wrong with all these jerks? This would never fly in any other field. Not to mention it's illegal. It kind of reminds me of how you're continually shot down no matter how high up you get in research academia... At least we're allowed to be sick. No one wants you around work when you're sick. They'll get mad that you've shown up. Guess it doesn't really matter if you work in a hospital, though. And these assholes are supposedly compassionate?ReplyDelete
I'm a PGY-3 and I've at least a couple similar stories myself from getting sick, mostly after I had my baby (thank God, I didn't get sick during my intern year, which started simultaneously with my pregnancy). What bothers me the most is that medicine is supposed to be humane, but the way medical education is designed, it really sucks out the humanity of people in it. It probably is similar in other/corporate business fields too, but not with the same irony as in medicine.ReplyDelete
During my 3rd year of Emergency Medicine residency, I was sick as a dog with the flu. Worked through the entire 12-hr shift in the Pediatric ER. After the shift, the assistant residency director made me stay late in order to get IV fluids. Notice I didn't say sent me home early or let me get some rest. Nope, she wanted me to get IV fluids so that I could be back for work the next morning. One of the worst parts about being a sick doctor is giving patients an excuse to miss work when they have the same ailments you have yet you are still working...ReplyDelete
- AnonymousJanuary 1, 2012 at 10:16 PM
Attending sent me home after I passed out in the PICU as a third year resident. Yes, I was expected to be there on time the next day.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousJanuary 1, 2012 at 10:39 PM
I caught Flu A the spring of 2009 from a patient who had just flown back from Honduras with a plane full of coughing Mexicans (they crossed the border to Honduras to fly out because the Mexican government shut down the airport in an effort to contain the spread). Showed up for work sick as a dog and couldn't get permission to leave until I manifested a fever of 104. Then the CDC got involved and I was mandated to go home for 5d of Tamiflu while my culture cooked at the CDC. I was not supposed to return until I was completely asymptomatic (you know, so as not to infect my patients with potentially deadly SWINE FLU). Yeah, that lasted for a week...then they said 'if you stay home any longer you'll have to repeat the month and you haven't had a fever in 48h...see you for work in the morning. As far as I know flu is contagious even when you don't have a fever. I was still snotty and coughing but the choice seemed to be 'suck it up and come in' or (veiled threat) 'be asked to leave the program'. The other residents on my rotation hadn't even been covering for me (having been pulled to do ER shifts to address the "my daughter sat next to a Mexican on the bus yesterday; does she have swine flu" innundation. They acted like I was a lazy bum and were resentful that I 'got a week off work', even though I was home sick with a high fever and came back to work while I was still sick.ReplyDelete


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Day 2 of #ncte11 started bright and early, as I had made plans to have breakfast with Stacey from TwoWritingTeachers. I was a little early for our meeting in the lobby and ended up running into Meeno, also meeting a friend for breakfast. It was a perfect run-in because I was able to congratulate Meeno on her new status as a National Board Certified teacher!
Stacey and I grabbed breakfast in the hotel and we spent about an hour chatting about literacy, writing, and our families. It was great to finally meet in-person!
After breakfast I hit the exhibit halls again, where I spent time talking with Ned Vizzini, Megan Mccafferty (who recognized me!), Neal Shusterman, and a variety of other authors. I also chatted with Sarah, also known as VocabGal, at the Sadlier Oxford booth. She was a doll and chatting with her afforded me the opportunity to take a look at the new Vocabulary Workshop books, which we use in our district. I was able to get some of our questions answered and look at a physical copy of the book. I immediately emailed some of my colleagues to share my thoughts and we are looking forward to the new version, which we will be ordering for next year.
Saturday afternoon was spent in the exhibit hall and in downtown Chicago, where Chris and I visited the bean, a local cupcake shop, and a Millennium Park. We skipped the aquarium, but we still had a great time.
Sunday night was fantastic. I was invited to dinner with Little, Brown and I assumed it would be a huge crowd. When I arrived a few minutes early, I ran into a lovely woman and her daughter who were also there for dinner. Sharon introduced herself and took me under her wing, which I am extremely grateful for. We spent some time chatting about our favorite books and the books my students are enjoying right now. Sharon shared a few title recommendations for my students, which I have already added to my library. We watched the ice skaters in Millennium Park until it was time for dinner. When I walked into the small room at the restaurant I was stunned to see only three tables set up for dinner. This was a small, intimate meal with some of my favorite authors! Little, Brown had brought Sara Zarr, A.S. King, and Matthew Quick and they would be reading from their new books and rotating through the three tables.
What an amazing dinner! It was so nice to talk with all three authors and I was able to bring back signed copies of all three books. (I've already read and loved King's Everybody Sees the Ants and Quick's Boy21– look for reviews soon). It was one of the best meals of my life. And to make the night even better, I walked back to the hotel with Donalyn Miller, the amazing Book Whisperer. Poor Donalyn walked eight blocks past her hotel because we were so deep in conversation about independent reading, the Common Core Standards, and our mutual love of helping kids learn to love reading. Donalyn was recently named TCELA's Teacher of the Year and it could not go to a more deserving teacher. She is a force to be reckoned with and I am lucky to have the opportunity to present with her and share teaching strategies and ideas. It was a fantastic end to a great night, and an even better way to end the conference. Monday would be spent at Midway Airport as I waited for my delayed plane to Newark, but I didn't care. I had books, friends, and lots to reflect on.
This past weekend I got a call for proposals in the mail for #NCTE12. I'm already brainstorming ideas! See you in a year, NCTE!
Filed under: NCTE | Tagged: #ncte11, and vocabulary workshop., megan mccafferty, NCTE presentation, neal shusterman, ned vizzini, sadlier oxford | 1 Comment »


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Singer Ray J arrested at Beverly Hills hotel
BEVERLY HILLS, Calif. – Police arrested singer Ray J at a Beverly Hills hotel after they say he became belligerent with staff, kicked out a patrol car window and spit at an officer.
A statement from the Beverly Hills Police Department says officers were summoned to the hotel Friday evening to investigate a report that the 33-year-old singer had inappropriately touched a woman at the bar.
Officers found the contact was incidental, and the singer agreed to leave.
But police say Ray J, whose legal name is William Ray Norwood, then refused to leave, became unruly and used his feet to shatter a patrol car window after being taken into custody.
He is the brother of singer-actress Brandy Norwood.
The charges include vandalism, resisting arrest and battery on a police officer.
A representative for Ray J declined to comment about the arrest.


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IBM's Watson, the supercomputer that gave our best two Jeopardy-playing humans what-for in three nights of play two years ago, is now showing mortals how to do better at another classic human struggle: curing cancer. Watson has spent the last year parsing data on cancer treatments from the Sloan-Kettering Memorial Center and is now being offered as a cloud-based application for determining the best course of action for cancer patients.
While Watson's turn at Jeopardy was entertaining and a true battle of man versus machine, the computer's higher purpose was always in medicine. During a panel discussion of Watson held as the computer did battle with Jeopardy champions Ken Jennings and Brad Rutter, Dr. Chris Welty, a member of Watson's algorithms team, noted that the computer had a future in helping diagnose medical conditions (as well as in tech support).
According to the Associated Press, Watson has improved its performance by 240 percent since its Jeopardy stint. In March 2012, scientists at Sloan-Kettering set Watson about the task of internalizing 600,000 pieces of medical evidence, 1.5 million patient records, 2 million pages of texts from medical journals, and 1,500 lung-cancer cases.
Watson can see connections and trends in the data that humans, or even humans and databases, may not be able to. Now that the data has been compiled, Watson is being offered as an app that can be accessed through a tablet or computer that will compare a cancer patient's medical records with Watson's index. The results Watson returns are recommendations on treatment, in descending order of confidence on effectiveness.
The algorithm can actually be run in two ways. Operating strictly on cancer, Watson stacks treatments in the order of likelihood that they'll succeed. But the results can also be augmented by insurance coverage, in which case Watson considers which treatments will be authorized for payment.
The application is owned by WellPoint and is set to be adopted by medical groups at the Maine center for Cancer Medicine and WestMed in Westchester County, New York, according to the AP. WellPoint will sell the applications to other institutions at a price yet to be determined, and IBM will receive a cut.


text: To address global poverty - do we really not have enough resources or do we not have the right tools to allocate our resources? The tools of finance, when applied correctly, can be an enabler of social and environmental outcomes. This course is designed to give you the ability to build innovative financing strategies that work towards outcomes such as financial inclusion, access to energy and access to education. The innovative finance process has five key components. It starts with identifying the outcomes you are looking to achieve and next moves on to due diligencing your issue area using techniques like design thinking to make sure you are designing with the end user. Next you must map all of the resources available for your outcome and then discover opportunities to augment these through business model innovation, multi-stakeholder partnerships and innovative financial structures. Finally, the last step is to put all of these pieces together to design an innovating financing strategy. Each week dives into a component of the process using examples and real case studies from social entrepreneurs, non-profits, development funders, impact investors, governments, foundations and more. Over five weeks you'll learn about new types of revenue creation, financing approaches, business models and partnerships. By the end of the course, you'll have the ability to hack finance for social change. Watch the course trailer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSMUoCJgqkw


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Tonight you have your choice of free activities starting at 6 pm. As usual, our Jazz at LACMA series will take place on the plaza, with this week's performance courtesy the Louis Van Taylor Band. Van Taylor plays a variety of saxophones and other woodwinds, and has performed with the likes of Ray Charles, the Gap Band, and many others.
Over in the Bing Theater, also starting at 6 pm and also free, is the first event in a two-day program held in conjunction with Olmec: Colossal Masterworks of Ancient Mexico. Exhibition curator Virginia Fields will moderate a panel made up of scholars from Yale University, UC Davis, Florida State University, and the University of New Mexico, Albuquerque, who will discuss the latest research and discoveries around the ancient Olmec civilization, including evidence of a written language. This discussion serves as a prelude to a day-long Olmec symposium on Saturday, starting at 9 am and open to the public. A detailed list of presentations can be found here.
On Saturday night our 20th Anniversary Tribute to the Film Foundation continues with the 1928 silent film Beggars of Life, directed by William Wellman and starring the captivating Louise Brooks. Vince Morton will provide live musical accompaniment.
Sunday afternoon sees another stimulating lecture, this time on Buddhist painting in Goryeo-period Korea (918–1392). Professor Chung Woo Thak of Dongguk University will go in depth into the techniques of this highly detailed art form. Come early or stay late to take in some masterpieces from this era in our Korean galleries.
Finally, we'll close out the weekend with the Amstel Saxophone Quartet, who have traveled all the way from Holland to perform in our free Sundays Live series. Here's a clip of a recent performance by the quartet in Amsterdam to give you a sample of what they have in store.


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A married woman's ad for a wild night out on Redmond
First name: Gihan, Age: 34 yo, City: Redmond (WA)
If you write a sex ad, it's to have fun with a good fuck during an evening of crazy limitlessness. I'm a slutty girl who's good at making penises grow. We love being in private clubs to have fun. We are a swingers couple. I personally love trios because I am without limit and my darling is OK for the threesome. We are available every evening in order to see each other and spend time together. We can give you an appointment at our place if that suits you. If you're interested in our libertine ad, please contact us. We are very excited to be on this naughty website. See you soon.
Looking for a hot date in a private club with a dominant couple in Poinciana
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Chelcy, Age: 24 yo, City: Poinciana (FL)
Hi guys, my name is Chelcy and I'm 24 years old. I am in a cohabiting relationship and we are quite libertine. We are a pretty open couple who loves to do unusual things. We mainly love exhibitionism and voyeurism in public places with other libertines. We prefer to meet you at our home but if you want we can move on Poinciana and its surroundings. We are only available for this future threesome on Saturday. I'm on this naughty site to share with other naughties. My boyfriend is fully aware of this request. I'm looking for a good fuck and well-endowed so that my partner can see me fucking him. We are on this libertine dating site to enjoy ourselves with men. You have the right to contact us if you want to meet with us. We're hugging you.
Looking for a naughty night? I'm your girl! DM me for details
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Shalia, Age: 39 yo, City: Coral Springs (FL)
I really enjoy swingers' parties. I've always been a naughty woman and especially addicted to sex in swingers clubs. It turns me on when guys watch me masturbate in public places like parking lots. I want a guy who is younger than me. Other than that, I have no beauty standards. What gets me excited is someone who's good in bed so they can make me scream during our future libertine evening. We can see each other at my apartment or your home, I move around, but I'm not going to drive hundreds of miles. I don't like staying at hotels because it feels a bit unhealthy. I am available in the evening and on weekends. If you would like to meet me, please contact me. I hope you understand me and that you will be able to satisfy me.
Looking for a cuckold plan in Baldwin Park for my slutty girlfriend
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Kathya, Age: 35 yo, City: Baldwin Park (CA)
My boyfriend and I really love going to swingers clubs in Baldwin Park in order to meet open-minded people. I'm a little bit to blame because I'm naughty with men and I have no taboos. We just want to have fun in your company. We're on this libertine dating site because we enjoy taking pleasure with other libertines during hot evenings. We can meet you at the end of the week. We don't mind accommodating your schedule or meeting you wherever you want. I look forward to seeing you soon.
This couple who is in a PACS relationship on Rocklin wants to have a libertine encounter
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Orida, Age: 22 yo, City: Rocklin (CA)
We are available on Saturday. We don't mind coming to your place or if you prefer we can meet at our place. We love sadomasochism. The best is when I am handcuffed so that my submissive can see me while you fuck me and I take my pleasure. I prefer pigs that are well-endowed and rather muscular, but it is still a preference. I want a guy who's as hot as my boyfriend. I want to moan. You can leave us a message if you would like to see us for some sexy time. See you later.
A married woman from Encinitas looking for a sexual encounter in a private club
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Danila, Age: 26 yo, City: Encinitas (CA)
We are a hot couple and I am Danila. We love going on libertine dating sites to have fun between us horny people. We would like to see you this weekend, if possible at our place or at a nearby hot club in Encinitas. I practice candaulism because I like to have fun with another naughty person, but only in front of my husband. I'm extremely naughty when I get down and dirty, and I particularly enjoy having my pussy eaten with delicate care. We're looking for a horny guy or couple who knows how to fuck, because we want to have a wild threesome without any hassle!!! Preferably, Mr. should be somewhat muscular - sorry, that's my current whim. Now that you know what I want, feel free to leave me a comment. I'm sure I'll have a nice time with you. I'm leaving. Kisses
A 35-year old woman is looking for a casual encounter in Macon
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Yayi, Age: 35 yo, City: Macon (GA)
So as I am a cougar, I only want to sleep with a guy who is younger than me. I remind you that I want to have a great time in a hot encounter for a few hours. I am a cougar woman, and I am attracted to young adults who are no more than 32 years old. I want to order during a one-night stand because I know perfectly how to make you hard. I don't have any taboos because I'm a free-spirited woman. You can set up a date with me, I'm available in the afternoon. I'll let you choose the place, but only in Macon. In short, to satisfy me in bed, you won't have to be a novice. If you respond to my aspirations, you will be spoiled.
Naughty couple would love to make love with a stranger on Tempe
Ellie Bamber Sexy
First name: Arista, Age: 19 yo, City: Tempe (AZ)
Welcome, perverts! My name is Arista and I'm 19 years old. I am in a relationship and we are quite open-minded. We would like to invite you to a swingers club. We can be free this weekend for a date of libertinage on Tempe. We've been swingers for a long time. My boyfriend and I try new hot things every now and then, lately it's been voyeurism. If we write a naughty ad, it's for the purpose of enjoying ourselves with a libertine couple during an evening of unlimited sex. I'm a slutty girl who's good at making dicks hard. If you would like to leave a message, we will be happy to look at it. I hope to meet you for a hot encounter. Kisses. Bye bye.
Couple in need of sex on Mansfield would like to test out cote a cotisme
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We are a mature couple and I am Juanita. We love going to swingers sites to have fun between kinky people. We would like to set up a date with you at our place and rather on Friday if that interests you. I'm looking for a nice guy who is open-minded and will make me cum with my boyfriend because I am a playful girl who loves having 2 naughty guys all to herself. I do candaulism because I love playing with another man but just under my husband's gaze. I'm extremely greedy when I make love and I especially enjoy having my pussy licked languorously. In short, we will read your messages for this night of sex. I hope to see you on Mansfield! I kiss you! Very good!
Looking for a naughty girl for some forest fun Dearborn Heights
Ellie Bamber Sexy
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text:
7336 Highway 90 Grand Ridge, FL 32442One : 4209715,
Two : 521257924,
Three : 2097152,
Four : 0,
Five : 0,
Code : 65536
- 4 ##Beds##
- 4 ##Baths##
- 5,780 ##sqft##
- Single-Family
To manage reports, go to your Dashboard.
The information displayed on this website comes in part from the IDX Program of the Florida Association of Realtors provided through the Florida Living Network. Real estate listings held by brokerage firms other than Beach Haven Realty are marked with the Broker Reciprocity thumbnail logo or the logo of the Florida Living IDX. Copyright 2023, FAR. All rights reserved. FAR and Beach Haven Realty do not make any warranty or representation concerning the timeliness or accuracy of the information displayed herein. In consideration for the receipt of the information on this page, the recipient agrees to use the information solely for the private non-commercial purpose of identifying a property in which the recipient has a good faith interest in acquiring.


text:
I'm going to let the pictures speak for me. Not that I don't have tons to say, I always do, but these chicken burgers were soooooo good. A pinch of this, a pinch of that, and then a pinch or two of curry thrown in and we have a delish burger. Not to mention the tzatziki sauce is one of my all-time favorites to use as a dip, a sandwich spread and on my hummus roll ups. Oh yes, my hummus roll ups have warm falafel balls , some hummus and then smother it in tzatziki. Delish.
This great recipe is inspired by my friend Esi over at Dishing Up Delights, who just made a wonderful batch of Greek Burgers, and from seeing that post I had to have something similiar. So here is my creation of a curry burger...hope you like it or are inspired to create something similiar. And if you can, grill these burgers for the ultimate taste, and serve on warmed Naan bread. ***And for you vegans out there, I've made this before using those Boca burgers and it was fabulous and tasty!
chicken curry burgers
print recipe
1 lb. ground chicken breast
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1 TB fresh ginger, minced
1 TB fresh lemon juice
2 ts paprika
1 ts ground cumin
1 ts curry powder
¼ ts cayenne pepper
A dash of salt & pepper
1 small cucumber, sliced thin
Red onions, sliced thin
Tomatoes, thinly sliced (optional)
Naan bread, warmed
Taziki sauce
In a bowl, gently combine the first 9 ingredients.
Form into mini burgers or meatballs and set aside/refrigerate for 20 minutes or longer to combine flavors.
Grill or fry the patties until cooked through. Remember chicken burgers cook a lot faster than beef. Don't forget to warm your Naan bread before serving!
Place cucumber, onions, tomatoes on warmed Naan bread, followed by the patties. Drizzle, no, smother with the tzatziki sauce.
Made about 7 mini burgers.
Tzatziki Sauce
16 oz. Greek style yogurt*
1 cucumber, washed and peeled
3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 1/2 to 2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
1/2 tsp salt
A pinch or two of cayenne pepper (optional, but wonderful)
*Greek style yogurt is much thicker and richer than normal yogurt. If you can't get a hold of it you can make your own. Place some plain yogurt in a cheesecloth, tie up the edges and hang it over a bowl or place the cheesecloth in a strainer over a bowl in the fridge for a few hours.
Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a small spoon. Then coarsely grate the cucumber.
Gather the grated cucumber in a cheesecloth or paper towel and squeeze out the excess water, otherwise the tzatziki will be too runny.
Mix the grated cucumber with everything else.


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Free shipping within India | Free international shipping on orders over Rs. 25,000 | Checkout in your home currency
Made in Banaras. Made by Tilfi.
A picture of perfection. This is a gorgeous and lustrous saree for days when nothing can dull your sparkle! It has beautiful gold zari and resham bootis, all on a gossamer bed of Kora Tissue. Delicate and dreamy Banarasi!
Since this product is handwoven, there might be slight irregularities. But don't you think these add to the singular charm of a handloom beauty?
We ship orders all across India and the world.
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Astros vs. Cardinals
Roy-al welcome! Astros in first World Series
Roy Oswalt is hugged by Lance Berkman after the Astros closed out Game 6. (Charlie Neibergall/AP)
Roy Oswalt, the NLCS MVP, yielded a run on three hits in seven splendid innings and a homer by Jason Lane highlighted a potent offense, as the Astros defeated the Cardinals, 5-1, in Game 6 to earn the franchise's first trip to the World Series. Wrap | Full Coverage >
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text:
Former EVP Gets Prison, $1 Million in Restitution From Federal Judge
by. Peter Strozniak
Carol Ann Ferraro, a former executive vice president at the $102 million Chaffey Federal Credit Union, will spend two and half years in federal prison for embezzling $968,000 from the Upland, Calif., credit union for more than six years.
She was sentenced Monday by Judge Virginia A. Phillips in U.S. District Court in Los Angeles. Phillips also ordered Ferraro to pay $1 million in restitution and placed her on a five-year term of supervised released after she serves her prison term.
Ferraro was hired by the Upland, Calif.-based Chaffey FCU in 1992, working her way up to executive vice president, becoming a knowledgeable, competent, trusted and experienced member of the credit union's senior management team, court records said. But starting in January 2004, Ferraro began embezzling funds, according to the court records,
She was a "super-user" on the credit union's core system, which allowed her to have full access to the system including the ability to update her own user privileges and to post to general ledger account and member accounts, according to documents. Even after she was caught, Ferraro attempted to conceal her embezzlement by creating false documents.
Prosecutors for the U.S. Attorney General's Office said Ferraro used her executive position to conceal her embezzlement in several ways through manipulating payroll credits, shifting of general ledger outages and falsifying month-end reconciliations. Court records also revealed Ferraro used embezzled credit union funds to pay her bills and her daughter's bills.continue reading »


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ST. LOUIS – The three-week-old star of Budweiser's Super Bowl ad now has a name: Hope.
Anheuser-Busch said Tuesday that its contest to find a name for the foal born Jan. 16 at the company's Clydesdale ranch in mid-Missouri generated more than 60,000 tweets, Facebook comments and other messages. Hope was one of the more popular names generated through the social media effort.
Other suggestions were nods to the song featured in the commercial, including Landslide – the name of the song – and Stevie – for Fleetwood Mac singer Stevie Nicks.
'We were overwhelmed by the response we got,' Lori Shambro, brand director for Budweiser, said in a statement.
'Many of our fans wanted a name to reflect their optimism and spirit, which the name Hope encapsulates beautifully,' Shambro said.
The ad chronicles the enduring bond of a Clydesdale foal and the horse's trainer. Anheuser-Busch has released a two-minute version available on YouTube.
The young horse proved to have some acting chops: Though a female, she played a male in the 60-second spot 'Brotherhood.' The commercial ranked No. 1 on USA Today's Ad Meter, a ranking based on fan voting on the USA Today website through Facebook and Twitter.
The foal now weighs 200 pounds and will weigh roughly 2,000 pounds when she is grown, said John Soto, supervisor of Warm Springs Ranch, where Anheuser-Busch raises Clydesdales near Boonville, Mo.
Hope was the second Clydesdale born at Warm Springs Ranch this year. Soto said a male horse was born 36 hours earlier. He has been named Stan, in honor of St. Louis Cardinals great Stan 'The Man' Musial, who died last month at age 92.
Two other Clydesdales have since been born at the ranch, and two more are due any day, Soto said. More than 30 Clydesdales are expected to be born in 2013.
The Clydesdales have been associated with Budweiser since 1933. The company introduced them to celebrate the repeal of Prohibition for beer.


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3 February
Don't miss our Clearance Sale at Gunwharf Quays Portsmouth
 Bag Up to 70% OFF until the 14th of February
 Bag Up to 70% OFF until the 14th of February
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text:
Guest Blogger: Scotch…blech
Andrew Kuhn
My parents came back from Scotland recently, and Ireland, and were nice enough to bring back some scotch.
Single malt, aged 12 years, etc. I hate it. I thought I'd like it finally like it, but I don't. I've never liked scotch. I think the 40 percent plus kills any flavor in it. In fact, I think it smells like rubbing alcohol.
I know I may tick some people off by saying this, but this is my personal taste, and if you like scotch then great feel free to have my share of it in this world.
In the mean time I'm going to stick to beer which I love, and in my humble opinion tastes, and smells so much better than scotch.


text:
I was very optimistic about the most recent build of Papers 3. The company announced some change in file management (which I could not quite understand but decided that any change would be for the better). I have also found a way to search within the Papers3 package file (another post coming). So I finally decided to give it a full try by importing my Papers2 library and starting to write with help of Papers3. So far I am sorry to report significant disappointment and regret. The version is still too buggy. In particular, it consistently fails to rename files in accordance with the publication's data and it also fails to display correct titles of publications in the list. In addition I spent some 30 minutes trying to add eight authors to a book chapter (the app kept erasing all data). Frustrating.
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text:
National Delivery
Compound fireworks
Compound fireworks are a number of fireworks that are linked together so you only have to light it once. They will give you multiple effects without the hassle of needing to light multiple fireworks back to back. Generally compound fireworks have a longer duration which can vary from 1 minute to... Read More
- Price
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text:
Air Conditioning
Getting in your car on a hot summer day in need of some cool air only to find out the air conditioning system in your car has stopped working is not a position most people want to find themselves in. We at HODGES SUBARU Certified Service Department in FERNDALE, MI can help avoid this situation from happening. Our expert service staff will fully inspect your SUBARU air conditioning, including checking to see if your Freon is full. We will make sure it's working properly, so you don't have any issues on those extra warm afternoons.
There are many reasons why your air conditioning system in your SUBARU has stopped working. It could be that the chemicals in the system have worn out and need to be replaced. There's also a chance your vehicle is leaking fluids. If this is the case, not only is your air conditioning not performing the way it should, but your entire engine could also be affected.
Additionally, there is also a chance that dirt, dust, and gravel from the roads you travel on have gotten caught in the engine, which can then clog your air conditioning system. Not only does this leave you hot and uncomfortable inside your vehicle, but this build-up of debris puts strain on the performance of your SUBARU, as well as its gas mileage. When you bring your vehicle into HODGES SUBARU Express Service near Detroit, MI, you can be sure that your SUBARU air conditioning system is working the way it should, without slowing down your car.
Every time you bring your SUBARU into the Service Department here at HODGES SUBARU, you not only get exceptional customer service, but all of our services are done at a reasonable price that fits your budget. Our certified service team knows the inner workings of your air conditioning system, as well as every other components of your vehicle, so you will leave having confidence in more than just your vehicle's ability to keep you cool and comfortable.
Let us professionals at HODGES SUBARU Service Department in FERNDALE, MI make sure your air conditioning system is working the way it should, so it doesn't shut down at an inconvenient time. Bring your SUBARU to get inspected by our expert service staff today! You can make a service appointment right here on our website at a time that fits best within your daily schedule.


text:
Dictionary of Netwar (Lenakel language)
- In this category:
- Language posters
This is the first ever extensive dictionary of Netwar language (western Tanna, Republic of Vanuatu) published online. It is the fruit of several years of my work among the inhabitants of the island of Tanna. It contains translations of local expressions, pronunciation recordings and photographic documentation. Its purpose is to help in the preservation of the language and in passing it to the young generation.
If you want to use this data in any way, or found a mistake, please, contact me first.
Do you want to print out the dictionary? Download its complete version in a print-ready PDF.
If you want to appreciate my effort and support my work, make a donation through PayPal. Any amount is appreciated.
I am not poor.
Speaker: Noël Yeru (Lowanatom)
- Rasolan mama io nases. , lit. "It is not that I am poor."
- Senia ma io nases. , lit. "One cannot say I am poor."
Speaker: Noël Yeru (Lowanatom)
Featured videos | More on my YouTube channel
2013-05-25 Večerní cesta na misii | Evening on Lowanatom mission
2013-05-15 Večer a západ slunce na misii | Evening and sunset on the Lowanatom mission


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