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For this edition of our series of exhibition-related playlists I tackled Luis Meléndez: Master of the Spanish Still Life, opening Sunday. We begin with a song about painting and end with a song about Spain, and in between are songs about as many of the items as I could find that that appear in Meléndez's paintings—vegetables, dishes, etc. Unfortunately I didn't have any songs about pomegranates or artichokes—nor, for that matter, cheese or pears or melons or tomatoes. Perhaps you can be of service: what songs did I miss?
- Destroyer: European Oils
- Snow Patrol: Chocolate
- Brian Wilson: Vege-Tables
- Bright Eyes: Bowl of Oranges
- Iron & Wine: Bird Stealing Bread
- Pulp: Dishes
- Animal Collective: The Purple Bottle
- Talking Heads: Stay Hungry
- Slint: For Dinner…
- Galaxie 500: King of Spain
You can download this playlist, and many of the others we've created, at iTunes.


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As we promised, here are 2 recipes Lévana has graciously allowed us to share with our readers.
Minted Lamb Kebobs
1 medium onion, quatered
4 large cloves garlic
1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, including stems
1 bunch mint, leaves only
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon paprika
Good pinch cayenne, or more, to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 pounds extra lean ground beef, or extra lean ground lamb, or a combination.
Prepare the grill or preheat the broiler. Finely grind the onion, garlic, parsley and a mint in a food processor (pulse: do not let mixture get watery). Transfer to a bowl and add the cumin, paprika, cayenne, pepper and beef.
Form logs about 1″ in diameter and about 4″ long. Thread on wet wooden skewers. or on metal skewers. Broil 2-3 minutes on each side. Serve hot. Serve 2 to 3 skewers per guest.
Makrod: Semolina Date Pastries
I have always rather neglected this wonderful treat, as the traditional preparation requires frying, my nemesis: I don't think I have more than a handful of fried dishes in my whole repertoire. But I tweaked the recipe to do my bidding as a baked, not fried, treat, and the result is scrumptious! I have streamlined it further by shaping it as bars. Sephardi flavors at their best! Gluten-free: Use GF flour and GF semolina.
3 eggs
1 cup oil
3 cups flour
2 cups farina or semolina
1 tablespoon baking powder
A little water as needed
1 pound pitted chopped dates
1 1/2 cups very hot water
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon ginger
1 teaspoon cloves
Peel of 2 lemons
2 tablespoons orange flower water
1 1/2 cups honey
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Mix all the dough ingredients thoroughly, and knead it on a board for just a minute or two, adding a little water if necessary to obtain a smooth dough. Set aside.
Process all the filling ingredients in a food processor, using the pulse button to avoid splattering, until smooth. Divide the dough in half. On a lightly floured board, roll each piece into a rectangle 1/2 inch thick, about 11 inches wide and 14 inches long. Transfer onto a well-greased cookie sheet with straight sides (don't worry if it doesn't cover the whole surface). Cover the dough evenly with the filling. Repeat with the remaining dough, and place gently over the filling (it's OK if it breaks, just patch it). Bake about 40 minutes, or a little longer, until golden. Immediately pour the honey evenly over the whole pastry. Let it cool, then cut it in bars or squares.
This coming Monday, April the 26th, Lévana's "Dinner and a Show" at Lincoln Square Synagogue in Manhattan (200 Amsterdam Ave – at 69th Street – New York, NY 10023) will be: Seasonal Spring Bounty. As she describes it:
Winter is over and wonderful vibrant food colors and fragrances are upon us in every food display: cheer up and enjoy them while they last! Life would be more meaningful to all of us if we respected the seasons more, with the specific gift each season has to offer! This menu is 100% gluten-free, naturally and effortlessly!
I will be demonstrating:
Lemon chicken breasts with artichoke and carrot Zucchini and fennel soup Haricots verts, roasted peppers and heirloom tomato salad with grey salt Herbed yukon fingerlings Plum granola tart
Remember to mention The Kosher Scene and you'll get a discount.
SYR and I will be there, hope you will too. You won't regret it!


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If your smartphone is encrypted and protected by a long passcode, you're going to keep most people from being able to get at the data stored on it. However, companies like Apple and Google are being asked by law enforcement officials to bypass these protections to aid in investigations, and the frequency of requests is creating lengthy wait lists—one agent at the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (ATF) was reportedly told by an Apple legal representative that the agency would need to wait at least seven weeks to have a phone unlocked.
CNET reports that the ATF agent tried for three months to find "a local, state, or federal law enforcement agency with the forensic capabilities to unlock" an iPhone as part of a drug investigation last year but came up short. At that point, he approached Apple, which may be able to bypass the iOS security measures and dump the contents of an iOS device to a USB drive, and was put on the company's wait list. Though the Apple representative allegedly gave the agent an estimate of at least seven weeks, CNET reports that in the end the wait "appear[ed] to have been at least four months."
There are a few software packages that claim to be able to extract some or all information stored on encrypted iOS devices and other mobile phones, but a quick look at the landscape suggests that they often can't recover all of the information on the phone, and they generally don't support the latest hardware or iOS versions. Elcomsoft's iOS Forensic Toolkit only supports iOS versions 3, 4, and 5, for example, while the Oxygen Forensics Suite 2013 supports all current devices but notes that "password-protected devices will require password to perform data extraction," which sort of defeats the purpose.


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Blog posts
- Some unexpected grain aliens from the Mediterranean and South Africa in Belgium. Or yet from Australia?
- On an extraordinary collection of alien plants on dredging sludge in Bilzen-Genk (Belgium) in 2017
- Tourists as an unexpected vector for the introduction of alien plants in Belgium
- Mini symposium on aliens and invasive species
- Not every Far Eastern mugwort is Artemisia verlotiorum!
- Yet another new neglected alien Rumex in Belgium: Rumex fueginus.
- Leonurus cardiaca subsp. villosus
- Dipsacus strigosus found in Belgium and possibly overlooked
Catalogue of Neophytes in Belgium
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Exceptional service for exceptional owners
When you join the Audi family as a valued owner, we return the favor with unparalleled service, support and convenience. By financing with Audi Financial Services you are offered online account management, a dedicated, U.S.-based service call center, and a wide selection of protection plans and financing options that are right for your budget. You chose an Audi vehicle because you expect more out of a vehicle, and that's an experience we're happy to deliver.
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VIDEO: The Beer for Everyone Project - Clown Shoes Mango Kolsch
It's been 10 years since the Beer Nut, Norman Miller, has tortured his longtime co-worker, Nicole Simmons, by making her try a beer every week to prove his theory that there's a beer out there for everyone.
Having failed miserably last time, the Beer Nut wants to try again. With the assumption that taste buds change and that there are so many more craft beers from which to choose now, the theory is once again being put to the test. And so is (re)born The Beer for Everyone Project.
Every week, Nicole will try a beer that Norm has selected. This week, it's Clown Shoes Beer's Mango Kolsch.
She'll record herself tasting it and will post the video each Tuesday (check out the video above). You'll laugh or cry at how bad she is at describing what she's tasting.
Also on Tuesdays, Norm will post his thoughts on his Beer Nut blog.
The new twist a decade after the original project is every week, Norm and Nicole will record a podcast that discusses how the most recent tasting went. The conversation will likely devolve into whatever random musings cross either of their minds. Find those podcasts on Fridays. They will soon be available to subscribe to on iTunes and Google Play.
As always, you can find Norm's weekly Beer Nut column every Wednesday in the MetroWest Daily News.
So remember:
Tuesday = new tasting video and blog post
Friday = new podcast episode
Have a suggestion for the next beer Norm should have Nicole try? Email him at email@example.com.


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The Beer Nut: Sip on this six-pack of new beers
It always seems like tons of new beers hit liquor store shelves each and every day during February and March.
It's getting to the point where it is hard to keep track of them. It's even harder to decide which ones to buy unless, of course, you have an unlimited budget. If that's the case, buy them all, but for most of us, that's not an option.
Luckily, I am here for you. I get a chance to try many of the new beers, sometimes even before they're in stores. So, here's a six-pack of brand-new beers I recommend all of you try before they're gone.
First up is the brand-new Boulevard Brewing Company's Grainstorm Black Rye IPA. Black IPAs continue to be a popular style, and this is one of the best ones you'll be able to buy. It is 7.2 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) and is brewed with barley, wheat and rye.
It has enough hops to satisfy a diehard hophead, but the dark malts provide a nice, roasty companion to the bitter citrusy flavors. The addition of rye is one of the best aspects of this beer, because the spiciness provided by rye malt almost acts as a bridge between the hops and the dark malts to bring them together in a marriage of wonderful flavor and balance.
The Grainstorm Black Rye IPA is available in 750 ml caged and corked bottles and should cost in the $10 range.
Next up in this six-pack of goodness is the Full Sail Brewery's Brewer's Share Vendell Veizen Weizenbock.
This 7.2 percent ABV weizenbock is a strong wheat beer. Unlike its counterpart the hefeweizen, this is a beer made to be enjoyed when it is a tad cold out there.
The Vendell Veizen Weizenbock is full-bodied, very malty and has a taste of tropical fruit and bananas.
Weizenbocks are an underappreciated style that is not brewed all of the time. But when one is brewed right, it can be a phenomenal beer. This is an example of one brewed right.
The Vendell Veizen Weizenbock is available in 760 ml bottles and should cost you around $9 to $10.
Next up is the brand-new Harpoon 100 Barrel Series Director's Cut. This beer is described as a blend of a stout and a pale ale. Whenever I asked one of my beer drinking friends who tried it before me what it tasted like, they said it tasted like a blend of a stout and a pale ale.
So, I took it upon myself to see if I could come up with a better description. The result -- it tastes like a blend of a stout and pale ale. It looks like a stout, it smells like a stout, but it has the hops of a pale ale and the mouthfeel of a pale ale. The best description I can give it is that it tastes like a pale ale that was made with roasted malts and has a hint of chocolate malts. It's one of my favorite of the 100 Barrel Series so far.
The Director's Cut is available in 22-ounce bombers and should cost around $6 or $7.
Moving on to something that is completely different, the next beer is Mystic Brewery's An Dreoilin. The An Dreoilin is named for an ancient druid ceremony held for the Winter Solstice.
The An Dreoilin is a winter version of Mystic's regular saison. It is brewed at colder temperatures. The result is a heartier version of the saison, with stronger hop character. The malt body is still there, and it's still slightly dry.
The biggest difference is that the yeast flavor is more dominating in the An Dreoilin. It is a beautifully brewed beer, as is everything Mystic has done in their first year and a half or so. If you are a fan of saisons, this is a must-have beer for you.
The An Dreoilin is available in 750 ml caged and corked bottles and should cost around $10.
The next beer in the six-pack is something that all beer geeks should try at least once because of what it represents.
That is the Samuel Adams New Albion Ale. Quick history lesson - New Albion was founded in California in the 1970s, and most people credit it as being the first craft brewery. Without founder Jack McAuliffe paving the path, craft brewing may have been years behind where it is today.
This is a recreation of New Albion's first beer, down to the same yeast preserved since 1978. It is an old-school pale ale. Sure, it may not knock your socks off, but it is a well-done, solid beer. It has some nice hop notes and a full malt body. You could definitely do a lot worse.
The New Albion Ale is available in 12-ounce bottles and should cost around $7.99 a six-pack.
And, last, if not least, is the Sixpoint Brewery's 3Beans, which may be the star of this six-pack.
The 3Beans is like no other porter I've ever had. It is brewed with cacao beans, coffee beans, and Romano beans, which historically, were used to add body to a beer.
The 3Beans is then aged on toasted American oak. The flavors are intense and amazing. You get a lot of coffee in the aroma, but once you take a sip, the coffee and cacoa are in perfect harmony. The oak adds a vanilla sweetness to it.
The result is a remarkable beer. It comes in at a hefty 10 percent ABV, so it's a sipper. Sipping is the proper way to drink this beer anyhow, because you really want to enjoy all of the flavors that 3Beans includes.
The 3Beans is available in 12-ounce cans, and should run about $10 a four-pack.
Hope you enjoy this six-pack of new beers I've put together for you. And be sure to let me know what I left out, I'm always interested in learning about your favorite beers.
Norman Miller is a MetroWest (Mass.) Daily News staff writer. Email email@example.com or call 508-626-3823. Check out the Beer Nut blog at blogs.wickedlocal.com/beernut. Follow him on Twitter at @realbeernut or on Pinterest at www.pinterest.com/beernutnorman.


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From Sarah Palin's Going Rogue: An American Life (Harper):
"But when the boom went bust, the golden goose still ruled the roost."
Unless the goose was counting its chickens before they hatched instead of the clichés in this one.
Read the full review of Going Rogue.
You can also read about the Delete Key Awards at @janiceharayda on Twitter. The 10 finalists are being announced in random order, beginning with number 10. This is finalist #9 The winner and runners-up will be named on March 15.
© 2010 Janice Harayda. All rights reserved.


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Gutermann Sew-All Thread is a medium weight thread perfect sewing with a sewing machine and by hand. This no lint thread is great for all materials and seams. 100% Polyester. 30 weight, 2 ply. 273 yards (250 meters). #938 Cyclamen.


text: This Harley Davidson Motorcycle print features the drawings and original patent artwork submitted to the US Patent Office in 1993. The design is reprinted on heavyweight art paper for an aged and authentic look. It has that unique vintage feel that is sure to captivate. Perfect for your home or office, Patent Art Prints look stunning individually or as a set. Dimensions: 14" W x 11" L x .0313" H


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This article was originally published in the November/December 1992 issue of Home Energy Magazine. Some formatting inconsistencies may be evident in older archive content.
| Home Energy Home Page | Back Issues of Home Energy |
Home Energy Magazine Online November/December 1992
Performance Contracting: Advice To Utilities
by Gil Peach
Gil Peach, formerly a program evaluator for Pacific Power and Light, is an independent consultant to several utilities.
A demand-side management program can unravel when expectations of utility and contractor don't mesh. A well-worded performance contract can keep all parties happy.
Editor's Note: Residential performance contracting is unfamiliar territory for most utilities. Agreeing upon what is to be delivered, how to evaluate it, and how to pay for it has been a matter of trial and error, often accompanied by disputes over differing expectations. Dialogue will increase the chance of negotiating contracts that ensure delivery of a quality product and a fair return to both parties. To promote such back and forth, this article and the one that follows (see p. 23) offer two perspectives on what performance-based contracts ought to include. One perspective comes from an experienced advisor to utilities, the other from the director of an energy services company.
We also recommend readers see these related Home Energy articles: Bidding for Demand-side Management Performance Contracts (Jan/Feb '91, p.33), Moving Weatherization Agencies into the Utility Age, and Contracting with WAP Agencies: the Utility Perspective (Nov/Dec '91, p. 12 and p. 19, respectively).
Many utilities are using, or considering using, residential performance contracting to carry out energy conservation programs. Under this arrangement, an energy service company (ESCo) under contract to the utility agrees to deliver a stipulated amount of saved energy, for which the utility pays a set price per killowatt-hour (kWh).
Ideally, performance contracting should be good for the utility and ESCo alike. For the utility, it should decrease the financial risk of demand-side management (DSM) investment by, as its proponents claim, turning conservation over to the free market. By transferring to the marketplace the responsibility for delivering savings, presumably the utility would avoid the need to invest in additional staff, materials, and management control systems and the need to build the expertise required to achieve savings cost-effectively.
Unfortunately, these benefits may fail to materialize because performance contracting also carries risks beyond those posed by the traditional utility-contractor relationship. Performance guarantees can be illusory. Payment plans that appear to put an ESCo at risk can actually ensure it will realize a profit. The need to monitor the retrofit process in order to protect against cream skimming and lost opportunities may oblige the utility to expand its staff and undertake new training programs. [Editor's note: Some conservation measures are cost-effective only when implemented in conjunction with other measures. When a contractor installs only the most cost-effective measures, a practice called cream skimming, return visits by others to capture savings from more marginal conservation resources are less profitable.]
These risks stem from the fact that performance contracting is new territory. What sorts of payment and delivery terms end up being fair to both partners in the venture is a matter of experimentation, the results of which will become clearer as more utilities and ESCos strike mutually advantageous agreements.
Meanwhile, utilities can protect themselves by developing contract provisions that will reduce the risks besetting performance contracting at its present stage of development. The following contracting guidelines will help provide this protection.
Avoid front-loading. Don't pay for work until the savings have been measured. Many of the early performance contracting experiments were undertaken reluctantly due to orders from public utility commissions. Because the performance contracting market was not mature (and sometimes hardly existed), utilities thought they were obliged to help capitalize an ESCo infrastructure. Thus, a contract might call for the utility to pay in advance for the first year's planned savings. The ESCo would then reimburse the utility if measured savings fell below the targets set by the contract. A utility should only use this front-loading approach for a clear strategic reason, for example if the utility considers DSM a transient phenomenon. In this event, the contractor should pay back all interest earned on the money advanced by the utility.
Define baseline measurements cautiously. Be very careful in defining the baseline from which to measure savings, especially if the ESCo suggests calculating the baseline from several years of billing data on each house. Do not expect the ESCo to treat these data as a utility analyst or time-and-materials contractor would. Expect the ESCo to use the data to justify setting the most profitable-that is, the highest-baseline. A more prudent approach for a utility is to insist on a single year as the base year.
Avoid payments based on treatment groups. Measure changes in the energy usage of treated buildings annually or in multi-year intervals. Be very careful if the ESCo suggests the creation of treatment groups based on months and quarters of work. Any complicated payment system based on treatment groups can easily cost the utility many person-months of effort to untangle if there is a dispute.
Provide for a waiting period between completion of installation and assessment of results. Let the project come to an end, and, if possible, let another year go by before finishing the assessment of results. ESCos often suggest measuring results as soon after the retrofit as possible, in order to maximize the value of the achieved savings. As time passes, some residents may decide to remove measures they don't like, and some of the effects of poor installation and materials have a greater chance of showing up. Unless the program is a low-cost/no-cost blitz in which public relations is as important as energy savings, the utility should wait to measure savings until a year or two after installation at the last site. From a utility's perspective, only reliable savings should be paid for.
Reserve control over inspections. By accepting integrated packages, where the ESCo provides not only the audit and installation but also the inspection, financing, and verification, a utility loses control and risks prudence review by a public utilities commission. Do not accept conditions on when and where to inspect. Surprise inspections have a deterrent value. It may be necessary to concentrate inspections in locales where you suspect problems. Inspectors should always carry a camera and photograph every failed installation or broken measure. Full documentation with photos is powerful evidence and will make for quick, favorable legal judgments. (It's best to use a 35-mm camera with high-ASA color film. Polaroid instant photos are expensive to reproduce.)
Reserve control over reliability and verification studies. Send inspectors out three and six years after the measures, again with cameras. Many failures due to poor materials and improper installation will be visible by then. For example, one size fits all pipe wraps will have deteriorated significantly.
Do not agree to pay the full avoided cost per kWh saved. When a utility agrees to pay for all savings that can be acquired up to avoided cost, a certain proportion of those savings-the easiest ones to get-will actually cost less than full avoided cost. Paying the full cost for them is tantamount to handing over windfall profits to the ESCo.
Incorporate the use of control groups. If possible, measure net results against a control group to prevent the ESCo from being paid for savings that would have occurred anyway, say from free riders, and to avoid penalizing the ESCo if electricity use is generally increasing. Realize that the ESCo and the utility have different interests in the measurement of results. An ESCo seeks to save the most kWh for the least investment. Moreover, the savings need only last through the final measurement. For this reason, the optimal saving for the ESCo is less than the utility would seek to produce in the same building, using a time-and-materials approach. The ESCo minimizes its performance risk at the expense of the utility's long- term interest in acquiring all cost-effective conservation resources at reasonable prices.
Preclude evaluation gaming. Do not accept any ESCo-proposed measurement plan that excludes cases where usage increases following treatment, or negative savings. Dropping negative savings distorts the analysis and artificially raises average savings, providing a windfall for the ESCo (see Tables 1 and 2).
Beware of proposals to target high-use customers. If the ESCo requests that the utility supply a list of high-use customers to choose from, be careful how to interpret savings achieved. It's easy to mine high-use customers and bang out jobs that show, on the average, what one may be accustomed to seeing as reasonable savings for a utility-administered, time-and-materials contract program. But these are not reasonable savings for the high tail of the distribution. The ESCo can substantially underserve these customers and still be paid for substantial savings.
Prohibit the addition of units to the sample covered by the contract. If the ESCo proposes to maintain the reliability of savings by creating a contractual right to add units at their own initiative, consider finding another ESCo. Adding units creates the risks of unforeseen financial liability and erosion of conservation resources. Instead, insist on a guarantee of savings in the units assigned. Do not allow any language that opens the window for an ESCo to treat any residences except those reviewed and authorized in writing.
Use standard contract language. Assume the ESCo will seek contract language that allows it to wring maximum profit from customers and the utility resource plan. Follow the advice of the legal department to guard against fraud and ensure that data quality, inspection, and verification methodology will stand up to a regulatory commission's prudence review, which is not likely to occur until after the ESCo has finished the job and moved on.
Include interest earned by the ESCo in cost calculations. If the utility program requires a co-payment from the customer and if the ESCo offers to finance that co-payment, investigate whether the ESCo is acting as a finance company in disguise. If the total financed co- payment is large enough, the ESCo may be making more money on interest than on the profit per saved kWh. If this is the case, especially if customer interest equals or exceeds the nominal co- payment, the utility should rerun its cost models to factor in what the ESCo is earning in interest.
These 13 suggestions, based on lessons learned from real cases, will help control excesses. It would certainly be unfair to imply that most ESCo's are interested in making unreasonable profits at the expense of the utility and its customers by selling unreliable or illusory savings. Nevertheless, until field results help us better define a truly equitable relationship, any utility embarking upon residential performance contracting must exercise vigilance, control, and guidance over the process.
Table 1. Simulation: Omitting Negative Savings Tips the Balance Measured Measured savings savings without Home (kWh) negative savings(kWh) ______________________________________________________________ 1 100 100 2 110 110 3 -200 4 150 150 5 200 200 6 -150 7 -110 8 100 100 9 100 100 10 200 200 ______________________________________________________________ Total savings 500 960 from project Average savings 50 137 per home __________________________________________________________ This simulation illustrates how the omission of negative savings can affect the calculation of savings for an ESCo and therefore how it will be paid by the utility. Negative savings occur when energy usage increases rather than decreases following an installation of energy conservation measures. Notice that dropping out negative savings nearly doubles the billable savings, 500 kWh versus 960 kWh.
Table 2. Case study: Effect of Excluding Negative Savings from Total Savings Average Normalized Annual Consumption (NAC) ____________________________________ All households Only households including those with positive with postive savings savings ___________________________________________________________ Pre-installation(kWh) 23,300 24,400 Post-installation(kWh) 24,500 22,200 Savings (kWh) -1,200 2,200 ___________________________________________________________ Energy consumption data, before and after retrofit, from a random sample of 209 residential customers shows negative savings. A subset of 80 households, however, does show savings. The irony is that the utility executed no program, demonstrating that energy savings and losses can occur naturally. Pre-installation data was taken from a base year, a pseudo-program implementation year was skipped, and the post-installation data drawn from the following calendar year. Portland General Electric provided the data set, a Princeton Scorekeeping Method (PRISM) analysis was performed on it, and PRISM reliability tests were imposed. NACs utilized weather data from National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
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James Boother is a Principal Consultant and Microsoft Certified Master working for Coeo following 15 years experience within the software industry working as a programmer, system architect, head of technology and consultant. James helps Coeo's clients scope, design, deploy and performance tune their Microsoft SQL Server database platforms. Coeo is a Microsoft Gold Partner specialising in Data Platform and BI solutions.
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The university was created in 1817 through the merger of the University of Wittenberg (founded 1502) and the University of Halle (founded 1691). The university is named after the Protestant reformer Martin Luther, who was a professor in Wittenberg. Today...
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La Universidad Técnica Particular de Loja fue fundada por la Asociación Marista Ecuatoriana (AME) el 3 de mayo de 1971. Oficialmente reconocida por el Estado Ecuatoriano bajo el Decreto Ejecutivo 646, publicado en el Registro Oficial Nro. 217 del 5 de...
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San Jose, Costa Rica
As an autonomous institution of higher learning, the University of Costa Rica is made up of a community of teachers, students and administrative staff dedicated to teaching, research, social action, study, meditation, artistic creation and dissemination...
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Universidad Popular Autónoma del Estado de Puebla
Puebla, Mexico
The Universidad Popular del Estado de Puebla (UPAEP) is a private, Catholic, non-proft university located in Puebla, Mexico. Founded in 1973 at the request of the people of the state of Peula, the university is dedicated to serving the community offering...
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University of Aberdeen
Aberdeen, United Kingdom
Introducing The University of Aberdeen is a public research university in the city of Aberdeen, Scotland. It is an ancient university founded in 1495 when William Elphinstone, Bishop of Aberdeen, petitioned Pope Alexander VI on behalf of James IV, King of...
University of Bonn
Bonn, Germany
The Rheinische Friedrich-Wilhelms-Universität Bonn (University of Bonn) was founded in 1818. With a student body of about 31.000, the University is one of Germany's largest academic institutions and with about 4.000 foreign students from all over the...
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University of East Anglia
Norwich, United Kingdom
Introducing The University of East Anglia (UEA) has been ranked 12th by The Times Good University Guide 2017 and 14th by The Complete University Guide 2019. We are an internationally renowned university based in a campus that provides top quality academic...
University of Granada
Granada, Spain
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Perth, Australia
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|Photo: Wikipedia
Saturday, November 24, 2012
Do You See What I See?
56 comments:
This is always a great idea during the dreary winter months. I miss the flowers of summer!ReplyDelete
Oooooh. Reminder! I am late, need to get mine going asap!ReplyDelete
Perfect idea for me today . . . Thank you . . . I have some McCoy and a few White Hull pieces to use . . . Paper Whites, (love the fragrance), Amayrillis and my outdoor Hibiscus blooming indoors, large vases of cedar, pine and fir . . . perfect!ReplyDelete
Love this. I'm all about simplifying this season and this is a great project that adds a little life to the room.
Hi Steve, I did the same a few weeks ago but I love the idea of doing a few more planters so I have them blooming throughout the coming weeks. The La Paz amaryllis is stunning - any advice on planting them?ReplyDelete
Enjoy the weekend!
Amaryllis are really easy. The bulbs seem to have enough resources in them that the flowers will almost bloom without even planting them. Whether planted in soil or just decorative stones, just add water. I've read that by planting them in soil and/or fertilizer though, the bulbs will be recharged so they can be forced next year. The moss I added looked beautiful but the bulb got moldy underneath. I wouldn't recommend adding the moss unless you're adding it to dress them up for a holiday dinner or party.
I'm so glad you put your McCoy pottery to good use. As my mother would say, "The best is barely good enough!" Your amaryllis photo is handsome enough to turn into a greeting card — appropriate for several holidays.ReplyDelete
You know I love my McCoy and I have many of the same pieces you do. They are such a cheery way to showcase forced bulbs, aren't they?ReplyDelete
I have never actually tried forcing bulbs. I know it is fairly simple but I am the grim reaper to houseplants so I am a bit afraid. They are so pretty though.ReplyDelete
How pretty. I must have a plant like that. I see them in the store but have yet to try one. Nice blog.ReplyDelete
The amaryllis reminds me of my grandmother's kitchen. Ahh such nice memories simply using a photo.ReplyDelete
Love the satisfaction I get from these blooms. I've only done it twice, I didn't know you could reforce them the following year! I can't wait to see yours in full bloom!ReplyDelete
Far better than tinsel!ReplyDelete
I only do paper whites... now I think I need to branch out... going to try other varieties this year. thanks for the inspiration!ReplyDelete
My Christmas decorating is pretty subtle - so subtle, in fact, that most people would say I haven't decorated at all! I have an urn full of pine cones and a bare vine wreath in the living room, a tiny chili pepper wreath in the kitchen and paperwhites in an urn in the bedroom. I'll replace the paperwhites as they die. And that's about it. No glitz for this girl!ReplyDelete
These are really pretty-but Amaryllis have no scent, and paper-whites make me gag. I'm sure it's anti-American, LOL, but I am really sensitive to that heady scent, and not in a good way.ReplyDelete
I think having indoor bulbs/flowers/terrariums is a necessity when people live in a cold climate, and gardening slows to a crawl.
C'mon, SPRING!
Your amaryllis are absolutely beautiful - I had some and took them down to Florida and planted them in the garden - they haven't flowered again but I am hoping!ReplyDelete
Okay, I'm drooling over your turquoise McCoy planters. As you may know from my blog, I collect McCoy pottery. I have one of the ivory Greek key pots, and I know what I'm going to do with it! I'm heading to the store to buy some bulbs right now. You wrote last year that adding some gin (or other alcohol) to the water stunts the growth don't the plants don't get too leggy, correct?ReplyDelete
Hey Steve - Love those McCoy pots with the Greek Key! Even the saucers are handsome! I've started a couple amaryllis bulbs.....Red Lions. I'm looking forward to their gorgeous velvety red color. Last year I had amaryllis Naranja....more orange-red.ReplyDelete
Hi! Loving those pots! Youve inspired me to get some paperwhites tomorrow :)ReplyDelete
you love that Greek key! Your McCoy pots are so cute, and perfect for bulbs.ReplyDelete
Excellant BULBS it's been years since I planted indoor bulbs! Thanks for reminding just how beautiful they are!ReplyDelete
Ha! Funny to find this post!ReplyDelete
I've just spent the day cutting and deadheading some plants that I brought in from my garden last month. One's a Honeysuckle and I have a couple of Geraniums and several houseplants that grew HUGE on the patio over the summer.
Hmmm. Now I'm thinking I should try some amaryllis bulbs.
How nice that would be! A garden inside!
Yes I was drooling over paperwhites already in bulb this morning. I think I need to get going.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 24, 2012 at 8:40 PM
The bright owl blog recommended your blog and I am not dissapointed! Can't wait to check it out more.ReplyDelete
Oh - I love the way they look but I never think to plant them. Til' I see your posts that is! Enjoyed seeing pics of your house and the interview in Country Living this month!!ReplyDelete
I haven't done paperwhites for a few years, and you've inspired me. The McCoy planters are perfect for them! I never heard about the sand dollar/Necco wafer pattern--funReplyDelete
I grow them every year and they are always worth the wait. This year I too have purchased the yellow. I've never seen yellow ones and I think they will really compliment the Susan pink I got with them. I love your blog and I've been reading it for at least a year. I live west of Framingham and I've been trying to figure exactly where you live. I love seeing your take on places I know well. Have a wonderful holiday season. It goes by way too fast.ReplyDelete
Ok, this Christmas song has to end here. I love all your new babies. I hope they bloom into delightful children over the holidays. I loved La Paz last year, found it sooo fabulous. xo TerriReplyDelete
Hi Steve...I've done the same thing and got my bulbs planted up and will start more this week so have blooms throughout winter. Love the smell of paperwhite.ReplyDelete
oh how i love christmas bulbs in the house. so gorgeous steve in all your mccoy pottery.ReplyDelete
Hey Steve, Thank for your comment on my recent post.... I was out and about yesterday and picked up paperwhites and daffodil bulbs at Northeast Nursery on Rt. 1. I think I'm going to go the rustic/country route with my containers. Sally and I have been able to stretch our Amaryllis two seasons by planting them in good potting soil.ReplyDelete
Eeek, not Country Living - Cottage Style! Sorry! :( In case you went looking for it.ReplyDelete
Drooling over your pots. Always raising the bar aren't you Steve?ReplyDelete
xo Jane
Cute planters, Steve! I like the way paperwhites look but simply cannot stand their smell.ReplyDelete
Well, it looks like there is a new collection in my future......love those white greek key planters. Just bought my first one on ebay!!ReplyDelete
Hi SteveReplyDelete
Well...just brought home a few Amaryllis and some Paperwhites...mine found a home in some of my Milkglass containers...I'll just have to be careful...no drainage holes...they'll go out to one of my beds when they're finished blooming...the Amaryllis do so well in the yard too...not sure about the Paperwhites :) where did you find the yellow?
Great way to decorate the house. I love the look of paper whites but the scent is too strong for me and mine. maybe I should go for the amaryllis instead. I was so proud of myself for saving the succulents that we planted this summer, by repotting them and bringing them inside. they really are cheerful and I hope they last the winter so I can take them outside in spring. (Unfortunately I tend to be a plant killer :-( I've had luck with a topiary lavender plant I have in my kitchen window, which is what gave me the courage to try and save the succulents)ReplyDelete
- AnonymousNovember 26, 2012 at 10:45 AM
Does it count if you just wait and buy them already blooming....Gawd...I am always forgetting that I need to do something early...:)ReplyDelete
Ima paperwhite nut myself. My husband threatened to leave oneReplyDelete
christmas because of the strong scent they give off. Does the scent bother you? I don't mind it - the delicate flowers are so worth it! loved this post, steve, and don't mind admitting I'm jealous of those cream colored pots. donna
I LOVE the McCoy Pottery! As Jane mentioned above, you are always raising the bar. I am now officially on the lookout for some McCoy pots.ReplyDelete
I love flowers, but I really do not have a green thumb. They usually end up dying :(ReplyDelete
The weekend BEFORE thanksgiving...that's when we are supposed to plant bulbs? Really? Why don't I know this? Annnnyway...yours are looking fabulous and those McCoy pots...and three of them...how wonderful!ReplyDelete
Your home is just gorgeous and really is coming along great. I just love it when that happens! Cheers!ReplyDelete
Steve I love paperwhite's and amaryllis! Your pots are pretty wonderful as well!ReplyDelete
2012 Artists Series & Giveaway from Pamela Terry!
Your bulbs are very inspiring! Hoping to get mine going today!ReplyDelete
You inspired me!ReplyDelete
You will have some beautiful blooms very soon Steve! I also love using plants inside as much as possible. Please post pics when they bloom; would love to see!ReplyDelete
I'm glad to hear you're feeling better. Your bulbs look great!ReplyDelete
Best regards,
I always admire people who remember to plant their bulbs in time!ReplyDelete
You mentioned Necco. I had a job interview there in 1986 to be a HR Assistant. My strongest memory was that once inside I had to be buzzed in past this sliding metal grate gate, felt a bit like a prison. I didn't get the job - maybe it was the look on my face?
I cant wait to see them when they bloom....I just saw some at my local market...I think I'm going to go back and buy them....they were beautiful!ReplyDelete
53 comments! Wow. My Famaryllis is doing wonderfully this year. I remember those wafers!!!!!!ReplyDelete
I was inspired by this to go and get some paper white bulbs. Thanks, I'm super excited about thisReplyDelete


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First Things First: Insulating Wall Cavities
A large portion of my work as a project manager at Wisconsin Energy Conservation Corporation (WECC) is teaching weatherization workers the dynamics of energy movement in buildings, how to measure it, treat houses effectively, and, in the process, develop a deep understanding of their profession. I want to impart knowledge and enthusiasm to the next wave of weatherizers and energy auditors. This is my role in a larger movement to foster the emerging retrofit industry and help empower people who live in homes and apartments to reduce needless waste of our precious resources. In this article I want to share some of my knowledge about insulating walls.
Building science tells us that thermal barriers (insulation) must be coupled with air barriers in order to achieve optimal performance. Insulation injected into enclosed wall cavities with no dedicated air barriers must do double duty: air seal as well as insulate. Installing loose-fill insulation to dense-pack standards does insulate and air seal.
Dense-Pack: The New Normal
The home energy retrofit industry has adopted the—dense-pack— method as the only dependable technique to insulate enclosed wall and framing cavities. There are circumstances that preclude dense-pack cellulose, but with the advent of fiberglass as a viable alternative, all enclosed cavities can be air sealed as a by-product of insulating them. Recent changes in the formulation of the fiber size in loose-fill fiberglass have made its performance as good as, if not better than, that of cellulose (see Table 1). Fiberglass costs approximately 50% more than cellulose per installed volume (regional differences exist). But it takes less time to install, so that cost difference is offset by decreased labor costs. When purchasing a fiberglass product, make sure to specify bags with the correct formulation for the dense-pack method.
Filling Cavities: Fiberglass vs. Cellulose
Note in Table 1 that cellulose is installed between 60% and 105% heavier than fiberglass. It is difficult to install cellulose above 4.5 lb/ft3, but it is very easy to overpack fiberglass. Great care must be taken to configure your machine settings for each type of material and job condition, and be sure to train installers on proper technique.
Those of us who have blown cellulose for many years are used to packing it very tight, even supertight: 4–4.5 lb/ft3. Turn up the blower to full air; run the injection tube until it stops; pull it back; push it back up the cavity; and so on. Many of us are familiar with this process: when you can't push the tube into the cavity any farther, the wall is dense packed. With the single-blower pass-through machines, it was all we could do to obtain the necessary density, and the old air-lock systems were hardly up to the task either. Most contractors are now employing the new generation of double-blower and high-capacity single-blower machines capable of high-production cellulose wall insulation.
Fiberglass is entirely different. The dense-pack standard for fiberglass is approximately 2.2 lb/ft3, far less than that for cellulose. If the fiberglass is not properly installed, it is very easy to over compress the fibers. The R-value increases with density, but time and material costs skyrocket. In order to achieve the optimum R-value at reasonable costs, you must know how to set up the machine properly, have enough hose to condition the material, and use a technique that relies on finesse over force. Oddly enough, you can pull that old air-lock tub off the rack and blow fiberglass quite nicely with it—the required pressure is that much less. But for that very reason, larger, modern blowing machines must be ramped down and carefully configured to meet the reduced density criteria.
How to Choose and Set Up the Machine
You need reliable electricity. That means a generator sized for initial surge and maximum load. But a generator like that is expensive and requires upkeep. A less expensive option is the portable power distribution unit disconnect box, manufactured by Construction Electrical Products, which plugs into any 240V outlet in the house (see photo of disconnect box, right). Of course, the house has to have 240V service, and if you have to pull it from the range, better be sure the owner doesn't want to cook that day! I advise you not to plug into household outlets without testing for voltage, because the full rated voltage is not guaranteed. Use at least 10-gauge cords from the machine to the power source.
Air-lock machines are the norm, and you need proper seals and paddles to obtain sufficient back pressure. Back pressure generates the "push" that packs the material. The back pressure, rate of material flow, and hose diameter are the three factors that determine installed density. I recommend a minimum of 4 psi as measured by an air pressure gauge for dense-pack cellulose installation. Less is required for fiberglass—approximately 2.5 psi. This is higher than some professionals indicate, but this higher pressure will be required to make up for hose length, height the insulation is being lifted, and weather conditions. Large, double-blower machines can easily achieve this back pressure; single-blower machines may need to be upgraded. Check with the manufacturer—they all have blowers to upgrade their machines for dense packing.
Ratio of Material to Air Pressure
To achieve the rated density, you must determine the proper ratio of material to air pressure (material-air ratio). This ratio depends on the type of cavity to be filled. There are three different types of cavity that are filled using the dense-pack method. First are empty wall cavities, 3–4 inches deep, and 16–24 inches on center (OC). The second are partially filled wall cavities. These cavities may contain settled loose fill, they may be back-plastered, or they may contain half-batts or other oddities. The third are large framing cavities that you have identified as critical junctions. These junctions include dropped soffits, bulkheads, tub surrounds, band joists, and so on.
Each of these cavities requires a different material-air ratio to achieve the best results, that is, a different blower speed and a different-sized opening of the material gate in order to obtain optimum density and complete coverage in the shortest amount of time. Couple this with different-diameter blowing tubes, and you have much to sort through.
I recommend using a wall density check box to take the guesswork out of choosing the right settings. Using the check box allows you to dial in the ratios at the shop, before you go to the customer's house. Use a sidewall-blowing box for standard sidewall cavities or a cavity-blowing box for other areas. The sidewall-blowing box is 2 feet x 4 feet x 3½ inches, for a total of 2 cubic feet of space (see photo of wall density check box, above). The cavity density check box is 2 feet x 4 feet x 5½ inches, for a total of 3 cubic feet of space. The cavity-blowing box is used to find the right setting for 2-inch- and 3-inch-diameter hoses for filling larger cavities, such as band joists, dropped soffits, floored attics, slant walls, and so on.
The Density Test
Here's the process I use to dial in machines when working with insulation crews:
- Empty hopper of all material and open feed gate 1 inch.
- Remove hose from blower outlet.
- Clamp or hold pressure gauge over outlet.
- Energize blower(s) to maximum rpm.
- Record initial reading.
- Continue to run blower with outlet capped by pressure gauge.
- Click agitator on and off to obtain readings from all chambers.
- Run blower and agitator simultaneously.
- Obtain average psi rating for machine. It should be relatively constant and at or over 4 psi. If there are pressure drops, seals need replacing.
- Fill hopper to a level that can reasonably be maintained throughout the blowing process and set gate to opening size that you estimate will achieve density.
- Weigh blowing box and then fill; keep track of the time it takes.
- Weigh again. Box should weight approximately 4.4 lb or 7–9 lb more, depending on insulation used.
Open the box and feel inside. Pay particular attention to the corners. This helps you refine your technique for addressing corners in walls you are insulating. Corners will always be less dense than other cavity areas unless you actively target them. You can tactilely sense what dense pack feels like in the blowing box, and you can tell what under- and overdensities feel like.
You can repeat this test until you achieve the proper density. Do not recycle the fiberglass at all, or cellulose more than twice, since it gets conditioned and will not produce accurate testing results. Save it for a future job.
As material in the hopper starts to run out, the air-material ratio decreases, which reduces production and increases the density. So keep the hopper filled, especially as you perform density checks.
Hoses, Couplers, Reducers, Injection Tube
The best configuration for properly conditioning cellulose is a 50-foot, 3-inch-diameter hose; then a metal diameter reducer; a 25-foot, 2½-inch-diameter hose; a metal diameter reducer; a 50-foot, 2-inch-diameter hose; a cone reducer cut at 15/8-inch inner diameter; and finally a splayed-end injection tube with a 15/8-inch inner diameter and a 45º cut at the end. Here are some more tips for setting up insulation equipment.
- Use heavy-duty hose clamps, such as the T-strap style. If necessary, saw off the extra threads and wrap a few rounds of duct tape to protect against snagging as hoses are moved across surfaces.
- Rotary agitators do not completely condition fiberglass, so you must run 100 feet of ribbed 2-inch hose to break up the material. The narrow diameter tumbles the glass fibers and pills the product—a necessary condition to allow smooth installation and to achieve proper performance.
- Never run 100 feet of 3-inch-diameter hose that terminates in a 1½-inch injection tube in the span of only 1 foot. Unfortunately, I see this all the time. This setup is too heavy and dangerous for the average person to use while on a ladder, and it practically guarantees that the hose will plug up during wall cavity insulation.
Drilling Holes—Gaining Access
Never drill through any cladding unless the house is to be re-sided or the owner is fully aware, and the drainage plane can remain intact. Care must be taken to remove and replace siding, using industry best practices.
Here is my method; but I warn you, it's not for everyone.
I take a 2¼-inch hole saw and remove the pilot bit. This allows me to drill a minimal amount of sheathing material and remove debris easily. Practice this technique; since there is no pilot, the bit will skip across the wall at first. A lightweight, high-speed ½-inch drill works very well here. Angle up and angle down when drilling. This produces an oblong hole with inwardly tapered edges, significantly easing insertion of the injection tube. But you cannot use a plug to seal the hole; you have to use alternative methods to seal it after installing the insulation. This method works best when you must drill through multiple thicknesses of siding. Experienced technicians can actually use a larger-diameter hose when the access cavity is angled in this manner.
When insulating true balloon-framed houses, peel off the siding at the band joist to gain access to the first and second floors and to fill the floor-line cavity. It's nice to stay away from ground plantings along the house whenever possible.
Three problems arise when you work from the band joist. First, you may not be able to slide the hose down or up the cavities because the hole is drilled into open space. In this case, there is no interior wall to push the tube against. You can drill or saw a long oblong slot to reduce the angle of insertion, or drill one hole at the bottom of the second floor and one at the top of the first-floor wall.
Second, builders allow subfloor and lath strips to carry into the wall cavity, and this creates a second problem. There is no real reason not to allow the lath strips to carry over, but it does have the unintended consequence of making it impossible for the hose to get past these obstructions when you are insulating. Third, the band joist cavity must be filled when walls are blown, but there is no way to do this in platform construction unless the band is opened. The exposed cavity has no backing; it is completely open from one end of the house to the other. A large amount of insulation will be installed here if there is no way to stop its flow deep into the cavity. This is where I use the "bagging method" to create a plug by placing a sufficiently sized mesh bag in the band joist cavity. Fill it with blown-in insulation, taking care to probe the corners, stuff the bag tail into the cavity, and top it off. This "marries" the top floor to the bottom-floor insulation, completing the thermal envelope.
Probing Wall Cavities
On exterior walls, only one hole per unobstructed stud bay per floor is required. The injection tube travels up and down the entire cavity, making a second hole unnecessary. Of course, blocks and fire stops may isolate sections of a cavity, each of which must be accessed and filled separately.
I do not use a tape measure, boroscope, or other probe to determine blockages in stud cavities. Nor do I do any exploring before filling; I use my injection tube to locate blocks within each cavity. To be sure that the insulation reaches the top plate, subtract 6 inches for every 4 feet of run if your hose is snaky. Probe side to side during the fill process. Don't waste time drilling a hole, probing, drilling, and so on. Drill every 16 inches and let the technician filling the holes do the probing. Immediately drill any missed cavities. When conditions permit, pull out the most expensive stud finder in the world, your infrared (IR) camera, and scan the walls to locate framing patterns from the interior and transfer that information to the exterior wall.
Filling Walls from the Interior
Some siding types cannot or should not be disturbed and some cavities cannot be accessed from the exterior, so an alternative to exterior insulation installation is to fill from the interior. Lead-safe rules and practices come into play and must be rigorously practiced. You know the rules, so follow 'em!
The following are some very helpful pointers, thanks to Mike Foss and the crew of DunRite Insulation:
- Use an IR camera to locate studs.
- Place the holes low, below the sight line, and behind furnishings—circular holes only. The wall is thin, so tubing works easily.
- Bring and wear knee pads!
- Use quick-release support poles to tent areas. Isolate the bare-minimum widths. Use duct mask, not painters tape, to adhere to plastic. Cut 2–3-inch widths directly from a roll, like you'd slice a cake roll.
- Use capture tools to eliminate dust (see photos at left). This is the single most effective method to protect you and the building occupants from the spread of lead dust. For example, drill a 1-inch hole in a sponge and slide it over the injection tube. Cover the drilled hole as the wall is being filled.
- Depressurize isolated areas to reduce dusting and to compensate for air introduced by the insulation machine, which tends to distribute dust.
- Stuff loose wads of fiberglass in unblown holes to filter expelled air.
- Clean areas immediately upon completion.
- Place tack mats to collect dust.
Some General Tips and Pointers
Here are some ways to do the job right and not take too much time doing it.
Existing Insulation in Wall Cavities
When you are working with existing wall insulation, you must reconfigure the blowing machine. Use a lower material-air ratio—which translates into a stronger force—to displace old loose fill that may have settled or have been tunneled by rodents. It takes a strong pressure to push that material aside; think of the density of old rock wool versus newer fiberglass products. In order to get the tube up the wall, it may be necessary to run the blower-only setting, using the airstream to displace existing insulation as you slide the tube up the wall.
Keep Your Hand on the Switch!
The material-air ratio is critical to achieving proper density. You should never run the hopper independently. The air-lock system on most machines allows a predetermined volume of semi-conditioned material to drop into one of six air-lock chambers. As the chamber rotates to the bottom, the blower propels the insulation into and through the hose and completes the conditioning. This ratio of air to material can be altered in many ways, each of which affects production and performance. The most common problem is to allow the agitator to run without the blower operational. This fills the air-lock chambers with too much insulation, which clogs the narrow-diameter injection tubes.
Avoiding Disasters and Unnecessary Cleanup
Save yourself huge headaches and manifold apologies by conducting an exhaustive inspection of all interior surfaces before blowing cavities. This is very invasive process and should be done only when the homeowner is present or has granted you permission to do it. Document all existing conditions and damaged building components, and draw footprints of walls and floors to assure complete coverage. See "Inspection Checklist" for a list of important areas to include in your inspection.
Anomalies and Large Framing Cavities
Enclosed wall cavities are one thing, but even the simplest ranch homes contain areas that require a new skill set, and rethinking and customization of the insulation process, especially when dense packing is required. We call these areas critical junctions—inaccessible interstitial spaces where wall, ceiling, and upper floor assemblies intersect. They waste energy, both conductive and convective, and the best, and sometimes only, way to address them is to fill them completely.
Tub surrounds on exterior walls represent one kind of critical junction. If the wall cavities and tub surround communicate with each other, I will take measures to isolate the plumbing access panel and pipes from any loose fill, and then blow all cavities with fiberglass. I never want cellulose near plumbing or masonry. This will keep the walls warm (and extend the life of a hot soak in the tub). If I choose not to do this, either I have a large area of uninsulated wall that will result in performance issues in the future (condensation on walls, internal-component moisture gain, air leakage) or insulation finds its own course and will fill this area. I'd still use the same amount of insulation, but instead of taking the hit, I would make sure to inform the homeowner and only charge a nominal extra fee in my bid.
Large voids represent another kind of critical junction. These large voids should be prefilled to reduce the time it takes to fill the cavity. Whenever possible, I'll remove the reducer nozzle and injection tube, use the 2–3-inch hosetube with the gate opened, and dump a large amount of insulation quickly. Then I'll go back with the injection tube to probe and completely fill the cavity. Some voids, such as eyebrow roofs, band joists, and end cavities, can be filled with a 2-or 3-inch hose directly. If you have pretested your machine to determine the settings with larger diameter hoses, the adjustments can be made quickly.
Verifying Installed Density
You must start with the basics—the potential to achieve required densities. This means having a machine and hose configuration capable of sustained back pressure sufficient to meet your operating parameters. Again, the greater the length and lift required to move product, the stronger the back pressure needed. You must also consider what is cost-effective and profitable. My bottom-level standard is 4 psi sustained average pressure for cellulose, but operating pressure of approximately 5 psi works well. Fiberglass insulation requires less psi to work well. Here are some other points to remember:
- Use the density check box to dial in your machine for the day. This should be done when any variable changes. These variables include a different product, new hoses, and a change in the weather, among other things.
- Standard 3½-inch wall cavities take 1 lb of cellulose per square foot of wall area. Thus, a 1,000-ft2 section of wall will use about 1,000 lb, assuming 4 lb per cubic foot density. At 22 lb per bag, this house will need about 45 bags. About 40 bags will be required for 3.5 lb per cubic foot. This calculation assumes no existing insulation or large interstitial spaces or other anomalies that would skew existing volume. This calculation should be done before work proceeds and should be monitored accordingly.
- Depressurize the house to 50 Pa and use a smoke stick to test holes that have been blown but not plugged. If the insulation is dense packed, by definition no air should be moving into the cavity. Be very careful that you are testing the cavity and not getting air movement across the sheathing, siding, or building paper, as air can travel across and in front of stud cavities to voids in framing members, giving a false reading. To compensate for space in front of the stud walls, use a 2-inch metal coupling, insert it into the filled hole, obtain a positive seal to the insulation, and smoke test inside the coupling. This achieves an accurate test.
- While blowing one cavity, check the previously filled cavity for air intrusion. Use a 2-inch collar as described above. No air should be exiting the previously filled cavity.
- Core samples are very accurate, but extremely difficult to obtain. The amount of material measured is so small that even tiny inaccuracies in measuring volume and weight are magnified. Also, it is not easy to pull representative samples, since there are differences in material density even within well-blown cavities.
- Finally, use coverage calculation charts that take into account windows, door openings, and framing factors. They help plan a job and can be used to calculate installed average density. But be aware. Existing insulation, large voids, and balloon framing can make this method very difficult, if not impossible, to use.
Patching Holes, Reestablishing the Drainage Plane, Replacing Siding
Many crews place a wood or foam plug into the hole they have drilled and then seal it with caulk. They do not do this to air seal the walls; that's the purpose of dense packing. That said, if the walls are not properly dense packed and the holes are not air sealed, air leakage in the house will increase alarmingly. I seal the holes (and building paper over the holes) to reestablish the drainage plane. This is explained at greater length below.
Following are some tips for the installer who is finishing up an insulation install. Note that the substrates mentioned below are the materials I am drilling through—not the exterior of the wall. Note also that when I am insulating from the outside, I always remove the exterior cladding and replace it after I'm done. First, assume that water will get behind the exterior cladding. If the cladding is vinyl, it will. You must protect the layers of sheathing underneath the cladding by making sure that the drainage plane is intact.
Most installers drill circular holes; some of us use the 2¼-inch hole saw method described on page 30. This method creates an oblong hole, which is not suitable for plugging, as I have explained. It must be sealed by other means. I describe both options for sealing oblong holes in the discussion that follows. For substrates such as wood lap siding, use step flashing shingles. These are expensive, but they make the job quick and easy. Slide the shingle under the first uncut course and nail once. If the hole is small enough, cut the shingle in half. If you have a sheer, cut scraps. Ice and water guard also works. Be sure to get a good seal, wipe the dust off, and—I didn't say this—torch it down and use a roller to seal.
For slotted holes, use ice and water guard or butyl rubber tape; torch down. Dust from cellulose can interfere with adhesion; clean surfaces thoroughly first. If time and temperature permit, spray one-part foam into the hole. After it skins over, push the overfill into the hole, flattening it. Brush mastic over the patch to create a drainage plane. This is cheap, but it's messy and it doesn't work everywhere. Alternatively, use one-part foam and cover with mastic. This is also tricky, because the plug can pull back as it dries. In both cases, dust from cellulose can prevent adhesion.
Use a hole saw to drill plugs from a sheet of foam. Size the plugs to fit the holes. Seal with caulk or mastic.
When cutting holes through sheet foam, wipe off insulation dust and seal with 3-inch Tyvek tape, and cover edges with mastic. Or slice long strips of sheet foam, drill holes, and replace the foam. Mastic or tape the strip of foam into place.
When an air barrier or tar paper is present, slice it and fold it up. This keeps wood chips from falling behind the paper. Staple the paper back into place when you have finished blowing insulation, and finish with air barrier tape; or use a second strip of the air barrier and flash accordingly.
Recessed Lights in Dropped Soffits and Bulkheads
Ranch homes are notorious for exterior wall cavities that open into soffits above cupboards and kitchen sinks. Frequently these soffits contain non-IC recessed lights. Any attempt to insulate these wall cavities from the exterior leads to filling up the soffit, covering the light fixture. The options are few. You can replace the fixture with an IC-rated can or install a surface-mounted light. Or, if you have access to the attic, these cavities can be insulated from the attic side. This will allow you to air seal the can properly.
What's the Best Way to Blow Sheetrock Off the Walls or Crack a Lovely Plastered Wall?
Here is a list of the common errors or omissions that, alone or in combination, will destroy a lovely Sheetrock or rock lath wall. Please, don't try this on the job!
- Forget to test for strength, fastening pattern, thickness of material, existing cracks, and damage.
- Set material-air ratio low, allowing high back pressure, or allow the material level in the hopper to get very low, which has the same effect.
- Once the injection tube stops dispensing material, back pressure begins to increase. Allow the entire system to achieve maximum pressurization, and then pull the fill tube down. This sends a huge blast of compressed air into the cavity; you can usually hear a distinct pop!
- Make sure the last cavity you fill is in the middle of a long wall run and is insulated on either side. This doesn't allow for air pressure relief.
- Drill access holes just big enough to insert a hose, but not big enough to allow air pressure relief.
Now Go Insulate
There is both an art and a science to wall insulation. I hope this gives you some instruction, direction, and insight to this very difficult yet cost-effective retrofit measure. This is by no means a complete telling of the tale. Much can be learned by diligent preparations and intelligent observation of your installation procedures. You get one chance, so do it right the first time!
learn more
Another good source of instruction for dense-pack wall insulation is this DOE-funded, 77-minute video:
I offer my thanks to Jim Fitzgerald and Keith Williams for being my mentors. And I offer a big thank you to Mike Foss, owner of DunRite Insulation, Madison, Wisconsin, who is the most progressive and capable contractor out there. He is always willing to share his innovations with others.
This article is part of a series sponsored by Home Performance with Energy Star, jointly managed by the U.S. Department of Energy and Environmental Protection Agency. The opinions, views, and ideas expressed within this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official
policy or position of any agency of the U.S. government.
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