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Volvo S60
Models 2.4, 2.4T, T5 2.3T, Sedan 2WD 7/2000 - owards
Models 2.4T, R 2.5T, Sedan AWD 11/2000 - onwards
Notes: Excluding Adjustable suspension
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Save 90% on postage on two or more products purchased together, click on Shipping to find out how.
At Auto Parts Direct2U, we are committed to offering you a large range of quality car parts in our safe and easy to navigate store.
Alko Shock Absorbers come with a 3 years or 100,000kms Limited Part Warranty (whichever occurs first).
If you purchase the incorrect product for your vehicle, let us know within 14 days of receiving and we will help by exchanging for the right product, if available. Otherwise a store credit will be issued, not including any shipping costs.
If the product develops a fault after delivery, we will assess your warranty claim and offer a replacement where appropriate. Before approval of a warranty claim, photos and or returning of the product(s) may be required if/when requested by our supplier(s) and or manufacture(s).
For further information on our Limited Part Warranty please visit our Returns & Warranty Policy page.
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Made in America
Authentic Amish Craftsmanship
Kiln Dried Solid Wood
Water Based Formaldehyde Free Stains and Paints Available
The Amish Soho Convertible Baby Crib, shown here in Red Oak, is artfully handcrafted by skilled Amish craftsmen, employing age-old practices. Our furniture is made of solid wood, harvested responsibly here in the USA. Our heirloom quality crib designs are convertible & can grow with your child into toddler beds, day beds & full beds. This crib is sturdy enough to last through childhood and into adulthood, with classic designs that stand the test of time. Available in your choice of standard or formaldehyde free finishes & paints. Made in Ohio.
Changing tables/dressers/chests feature standard dovetail drawers & full extension drawer slides and are all handmade of the same quality domestic hardwoods as our cribs. The optional Baby Changing Tray attaches to the Soho Dressers / Baby Changers for extra security and easily removed when no longer needed. Custom stains, finishes, paints & hardware are available. Wood species not listed above (Walnut, Grey Elm, Hickory, Rustic Hickory, Rustic Cherry, Rock Maple) may also be available. Email us if interested.
Our Amish Convertible Baby Cribs are made entirely of solid wood & are 100% free of composite wood materials . However, the drawer bottoms & backs of our Amish case goods (night stands, dressers, chests, etc.) are made of non toxic, FSC certified, formaldehyde free PureBond Hardwood Plywood. PureBond plywood is compliant with US Green Building Council's Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED®) standards, earning one point for LEED®'s EQ Credit 4.4 for Low Emitting Materials: Composite Wood. PureBond Plywood also satisfies the emissions standards of the California Air Resources Board (CARB) Phase 2 regulations, the highest standards in the United States. Alternatively, case goods can be built entirely of solid wood; please contact us if interested.
- Hand made in America
- Authentic Amish workmanship
- Kiln dried solid wood
- Mortise & tenon joints
- Dovetail drawers
- Ball bearing drawer slides
- Water based formaldehyde free stains and paints available
- Detailed, step by step assembly instructions included
- Veneer free
- Plywood free
- Particle board free
- Pressed wood free
- MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) free
- Fits standard baby crib mattresses
- Three mattress height adjustments
- Powder coated heavy gauge mattress support made in Ohio
- Converts to day bed & toddler bed with optional rails
- Converts to full bed with optional rails
- CPSC 16 CFR 1219 compliant
- Conforms to ASTM F1169-11 standards
- Federally certified, independent, third party lab tested & approved
* Each item is custom made to order & may take 8-12 weeks to complete, plus packing/shipping time
* ETAs vary by season; please email us for current estimate
* Our products ship only in the contiguous USA
* Free Shipping is a curbside only service. It is not Inside Delivery
* Inside Delivery (assembly for all items except crib, room placement & debris removal) is available. If interested, contact us for a quote
Dimensions (case goods can be customized):
|Crib Exterior:
|55" W x 34" D x 36" H
|25" W x 18" D x 27" H
|6 Drawer Dresser / Baby Changer:
|54" W x 19" D x 33.5" H
|Baby Changing Tower:
|54.5" W x 18" D x 39" H
|6 Drawer Chest:
|36" W x 18" D x 48" H
|38" W x 18" D x 65" H
|33" W x 41" H
©2008-2018 Baby Eco Trends, LLC | Site Updated February 19, 2018 | info {at} BabyEcoTrends {dot} com


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If have to file an insurance claim, document the facts of your case as soon as possible. To be prepared, collect your records in one place, so a family member can retrieve them in the case of an emergency. Time counts in an insurance claim, and valuable information and documentation may be lost if you don't take action when it counts. Specifically, keep an updated copy of your original insurance policy, noting which coverage impacts your claim. In the case of an accident, obtain repair or replacement estimates, and detail alleged misconduct or neglect. If necessary, hire an independent investigator to gather evidence. Keep records of the progress in the settlement of your claim, and print out emails as an attachment. Claims adjusters, appraisers, and accident investigators evaluate insurance claims. They decide whether an insurance company must pay a claim, and if so, in what amount.
Insurance companies have attorneys on their payroll whose job is to limit liability in settlements. You may be offered an initial settlement by your insurer, but you don't need to accept it. While attorney fees are high, a competent attorney can win you a much larger settlement than you'd be able to negotiate yourself. In most instances, the case will never go to court, as the insurance company's main interest is to limit payouts. Not only can you sue for actual damages, such as personal injury and loss of income, but you are also eligible to receive punitive damages if neglect was involved. Beyond major requirements within the insurance program department, you may consider Lone Star College North Harris AP classes as a complementary elective to your primary course of study.


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To get a correct adapter replacement, you must make sure the adapter connector tip is right. Please check the tip size and compare the tip shape with your original device. Contact us if you have any questions, thanks
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Sure, we guarantee our replacement adapter work with your laptop or netbook if your adapter part number or laptop model number is included in our compatible list. Our adapter has +/- 1 voltage allowance. For example, our 19V adapter automatically switches its output voltage to 18.5V, 19V, 19.5V, or 20V accordingly when it is plugged in. It will be no problem if the output current (A - Amperage) of your original adapter is smaller than ours. For example, our 90W adapter (19V x 4.73A) can replace your genuine 65W (19V x 3.42A) or 75W (19V x 3.95A) adapter without any problems as long as they have same output voltage and connector tip. For tip size and shape, you can put your mouse on the adapter picture in product page to get a close-up image and read the details. Higher power adapter has no impact on your laptop because the laptop drawsbsas as many amps and watts as it needs while the adapter just provides as much power as the laptop draws. more ...
The batteries and adapters supplied by our Company are [replacement for] sold for use with certain products of computer manufacturers, and any reference to products or trademarks of such companies is purely for the purpose of identifying the computer manufacturers with which our products [are replacement for] may be used. Our Company and this Website are neither affiliated with, authorized by, licensed by, distributors for, nor related in any way to these computer manufacturers, nor are the products offered for sale through our Website manufactured by or sold with the authorization of the manufacturers of the computers with which our products [are replacement for] may be used.


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Summer Sampler Series: Arkansas Traveler Block
Welcome back to the Summer Sampler Series. Are you ready for block #6? It's a very unique block, and one of my favorites in the quilt-along!
This is the Arkansas Traveler block, #3912 in the Encyclopedia Of Pieced Quilt Patterns. It's also known as Cowboy's Star, Travel Star, or "Teddy's Choice." It's from the "Other Stars" category of patterns in the Encyclopedia.
Not much is known about the history of this block, but it likely dates back to the 1800s, since it shares its name with a popular 19th century folk song. There are several quilt blocks known by the name Arkansas Traveler—the others are variations on spool designs. Arkansas Traveler quilts were sometimes made up of more than one type of Arkansas Traveler block, like the flag quilt above (from writer Earlene Fowler's website).
I'm doing a more modern variation on this block, using 60-degree diamonds instead of the narrower diamonds often used in traditional Arkansas Traveler blocks. Since Faith did such an excellent job of introducing us to paper-piecing with Wednesday's Star block, I thought we'd make this block by combining traditional piecing and paper piecing. Don't worry, it's easier than it sounds!Arkansas Traveler Block Tutorial
• For diamonds: 2 5/8″ x 9″ strips – cut 8 (Stash Trad bee members: Cut these strips to 3″ instead.)
• For background: 3″ x 6″ strips – cut 8; 3″ x 9″ strips – cut 8
Cutting and Piecing the Diamonds
1. Place your ruler on an angle over the end of one of the 2 5/8″ x 9″ strips, lining up the 60-degree mark with the bottom of the strip, as shown, and cut.
2. Slide your ruler over. With the 60-degree mark still lined up with the bottom of the strip, line up the 2 5/8″ mark on your ruler with the angled (cut) end of the strip, and cut again. (Stash Trad members, again cut to 3″.)
3. You now have a 60-degree diamond. Continue cutting diamonds, two from each strip, until you have 16.
4. Pair up two diamonds, right sides facing, and so that the edges intersect 1/4″ from each point (right where your seam will be). This results in little triangles sticking out on each side called dog ears—see them? Make sure those dog ears are showing, and that they're even on each side.
5. Sew and press seam allowances open. Sew together a second pair and press.
6. Put your pairs together, right sides facing, as shown above. Again, make sure the dog ears are correct.
7. Sew and press seam allowances open. You should now have a diamond unit that looks like this. Repeat the steps above until you have four diamond units.
Paper-Piecing the Diamonds into the Background
1. Let me start by saying that if you've never paper-pieced before, and you haven't yet made Faith's Star block, I recommend you do that first. Faith did a great job introducing the skill of paper-piecing, and I don't want to repeat too much of what she explained in her post.
2. Okay, all set? Print out 4 copies of my paper-piecing template for this block, which can be found here. Be sure to set page scaling to "None" or "100 percent" when printing, and after printing, check the 1″ scale to make sure it's accurate. Trim the templates.
3. Attach one of your peiced diamond units to the back of the template, lining up the diamond seams you sewed in the previous steps with the "pre-sewn line" marks on the front of the template (as much as you can see them through the paper). I flipped down the edges of the diamond unit to make sure the seams were lined up, but don't stress about it too much. Since those diamond seams don't line up with anything else, it's not crucial that they be exact. I used double-sided tape to attach my diamond units to the back of the paper—I prefer that over pins. You could also use a glue stick.
Tip: If you have a certain color/print that you want in the center, place the diamond unit so the center print is between 4 and 5 (where my blue and green floral print is in the photo below), rather than between 2 and 3. This will give your seams an outward radiating pattern.
4. Hold up your template to a light source to visually check that your diamond unit is placed correctly and that there will be 1/4″ seam allowance all the way around. This diamond unit is piece #1. You'll add piece #2, a background piece, next.
5. Place a 3″ x 6″ background piece along the edge of the diamond that borders section #2. Make sure right sides facing and the edges are approximately lined up, as shown. Now turn over the whole thing and sew on the line, through the paper, as Faith showed on her blog. Remember to lower your stitch count to perforate the paper better—I use 1.4.
6. Press back the piece you just sewed and trim any excess seam allowances. Repeat the steps above to add additional background pieces, in order, according to the numbers on the paper template. You will use the 3″ x 6″ pieces for the first two background pieces, and the 3″ x 9″ cuts for the second (longer) two pieces.
7. Once you've sewed on all four background pieces, it should look like this.
8. Turn the whole thing over and trim around the edges of the paper template. DON'T tear the paper off yet!
9. You now have the first of your four star units. Repeat the steps above to create the other three quarter-block units.
10. Arrange two of the star units as shown.
11. Put the units together, right sides facing, with the paper still on.
12. Sew the two units together on the template's outer line, as shown. So you're now sewing through two star units and two paper templates. There will be a lot of seam bulk where the center points meet, but the paper will give that area some structure, which should keep the fabric from bunching up. It will also help you match up the points more accurately, in spite of the bulk. If your machine gets hung up at that corner, you may need to gently push the units/paper through. You could also try adjusting your presser foot to make it less tight (if your machine has that option) or using a walking foot if you're still having problems.
When you're done sewing, here's what it looks like on the other side. Your sewing should come through the other side right on the other template's line (mine isn't perfect, but it's close enough!)
And here's what it looks like when you're done (the paper is still on the back).
13. Repeat with the other two star points. Finger press the seam allowances open. When you're ready to join the two pairs with the final seam of the block, you can take the paper off if you're worried about the paper making too much bulk in your machine, or leave the paper on and piece it the same way you did the previous two seams.
14. Once the entire block has been pieced, remove the paper and press seams open.
And with that, we are now halfway through this quilt-along! Here are all 6 of my blocks together. I can't wait to see your blocks, especially Arkansas Traveler, so please post pictures to the Flickr group.
On Monday, the Summer Sampler Series will be back on Katie's blog to kick off our second half. Have a wonderful weekend, everyone!