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There seems to be an interest now on Fodors to hear more about South Korea, and a dearth of information to go with it. With that in mind, I offer this belated trip report, from August 22 to September 5th, 2012, from before I started posting on this forum. I hope this info will be helpful to someone.
Following a week in Japan, we had two exhilarating weeks in Korea, a continuously mountainous peninsula where First World amenities of clean water, excellent transportation infrastructure, and advanced communications are juxtaposed dramatically with many people living humble, traditional lives.
I am not sure my experience will be all that relatable since my way of traveling is unlike that of so many others. First, I don't care for having a laundry list of 'Must See' sites or monuments. It's ok with me if I miss something Big. I look for variety.
Secondly, I have to spend some time out of the cities, and for me that usually means renting a car for at least part of the trip. I like going at my own pace with complete freedom.
Also, I am really into trying the food of the land, with as few restrictions as possible, so this can mean going to otherwise inconvenient out-of-the-way places. I already live near a sophisticated food city (Washington, DC) where there is a large Korean community, so bonus points for traditional food that I can't get easily back home.
Finally, I like to pick up language skills wherever I go. To that end, before going I taught myself Hangul, the Korean alphabet. I didn't even know Korean had an alphabet! It was easy and fun to learn. Since I started the trip knowing a good deal about Korean food, I knew I wouldn't have much problem in restaurants. Plus we have no food fears and were willing to try anything.
Going to Korea for two weeks was my son (17), daughter (13), and me, their dear father (53). The idea of going to Korea was my daughter's. I was going mostly for the food.
We flew from Tokyo to Busan, and planned to fly back to the US from Seoul two weeks later. All options were open.
Since we were fresh from a week in Tokyo and Yokohama in a mostly urban environment, I wanted to spend the middle part of our trip in the countryside, so I decided to rent a car for a week immediately after landing in Busan. After that, the plan was to spend the final week of our trip split between Busan (3 nights) and Seoul (4 nights).
I rented a car through Hertz, which gave me the best price. But Hertz does not have its own counter in the Busan airport; they use the counter of a Korean agency (I forget which). Also, I went to the SK Telecom counter to pick up an iPhone that I rented in advance for the trip. Hertz could not tell me in beforehand if there was any GPS available, in Hangul or English. I crossed my fingers, but I was expecting no GPS and might have to get around on maps.
As it turned out, the car did indeed have GPS in English – what a relief! To be able to use it, though, you still have to know the province, city, neighborhood, and street name and number of your destination. So it pays to start off well prepared.
In deciding where to go on our week-long car trip, I consulted a lot of opinions, but ultimately found a CNN article about the most beautiful places in Korea very intriguing. I could hit so many varied places in a circular route in the south. With teenagers you want as much variety as possible.
We decided to visit Goryeong, Haeinsa, Maisan Provincial Park, Jeonju, Damyang Bamboo Forest, the Dahae Daehan Tea Plantation, Nagan Stone Village, and Darangyi on Namhae Island. I skipped 'The Big One', Gyeongju, thinking we didn't have enough time to do everything justice.
The driving was easy, and the GPS in Korea is much more sophisticated than in the US. Apparently it is quite expensive to purchase. It knows your speed and alerts you when you are speeding. It also alerts you to upcoming road conditions, like a tunnel or a bumpy road. And it changes the read out for night and day driving. It also has movies, music, and other entertainment on it! I assume the movies are for the pleasure of the passengers….
I found Korean drivers to be rather cautious, despite high traffic fatality rates. I was passed only once in two weeks. Even when we took a taxi in the city, the driving seemed unremarkable. Driving in Italy, for example, is much more harrowing, and if you go simply at the speed limit, cars and especially motorcycles will rocket past you continually.
To be continued….
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Belated 2012 Trip Report - Two Weeks in South Korea
There seems to be an interest now on Fodors to hear more about South Korea, and a dearth of information to go with it. With that in mind, I offer this belated trip report, from August 22 to September 5th, 2012, from before I started posting on this forum. I hope this info will be helpful to someone.
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Looking forward to more ( can I beg for quickly please).
We head off to SK on Monday and although we have been before, this time we intend renting a car. We will rent in Gwangju but intend heading to some of the places you have visited -Damyang Nagan Stone Village and that whole corner.
I'm really interested in how you got on.
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A great start! Looking forward to more as we are thinking of including Korea on our Asian trip next year.
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I am also looking forward to hearing the rest of your report. I am in the midst of posting my report on Japan and SK.
I like your travel style! I like the idea of winging it. I am impressed that you took the time to learn Hangul. My son told me it was easy to learn but I am a bit thick and when I got a little guide to study I didn't get too far!
When we were on the freeway in the Seoul area we said it was just like driving in LA, surrounded by Kias, Hyundais and Chevrolets! We did have some crazy taxi rides where the driver was using the GPS in the entertainment mode!
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@SeeHag Being so familiar with food names probably helped me learn Hangul. Also, I found it interesting that some Korean words or phrases are the same or close to the English pronunciation. For example, when I went to an event recently in the US, the Regitartion Table had a sign in Hangul that was pronounced, Checkuh Een.
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I will proceed quickly! The installment after thsi will cover Jeonju and South.
We ran into revelations and disappointments. Four big storms got in our way! But through it all we were left with a sense of discovery that was thrilling.
So off we went to our first stop, Goryeong. The roads are fast, well-engineered, and tunnel through the mountains when necessary. So distances are fast and easy to cover. We spent less time getting to places than I thought we would.
Goryeong is not on the Western tourist map. The only reason it is on the Korean tourist map is that in 1977, tombs were discovered that revealed a small kingdom separate from the three main kingdoms of Korea. It is called the Gaya Kingdom. The Korean Government decided to build a spiffy, modern museum there, including one excavated tomb protected by a huge dome, and a museum proper with artifacts and explanations. You can also hike a trail leading past a series of unexcavated tombs which are eerie, grassy mounds surrounded by trees.
I didn't have a motel lined up, but the excellent Goryeong tourism website had pictures of motels and addresses, so I chose one and entered the address in my GPS. I went for the Zeus Motel since I heard that many Korean motels have unusual, cute themes and that this was a bonus! I have a friend with a Korean wife who told me that good themed motels are plentiful in Korea, and that it wasn't necessary to reserve in advance.
The Zeus was undergoing some 'renovation,' or at least the central garden looked like it was a bit torn up. There was a small, interior window that looked like a management office, and indeed there was someone there. He was an old guy, looked like he was maybe wearing pajamas, and though he did not speak English, it was very clear to him why we were there. He gave me the price, I understood with my rudimentary knowledge of Korean, but he may have written it down as well. It seemed like an ok price, so with very few words exchanged we had our room for the night. The Zeus was a large place and looked more like an apartment building with a central courtyard than a standard motel. There was a wide staircase leading up to our room on the second floor. The walls of the room were plain, but the furniture was fanciful. In the hallway, there was Roy Lichtenstein wallpaper – this would be the first of three places we stayed that incorporated some of his work into their décor. Also there were Greek-like statues and paintings. The room was very large and completely tiled, with a very large circular bed and some ondol mats for sleeping. My daughter volunteered to sleep on a mat while my son and I shared the big bed.
The first night we went to eat at a place out of town. Again, we turned to the Goryeong website which had an impressive rundown of places with pictures and at least a brief description of their specialty. I chose a place the features sujebi, aka hand-torn noodle soup. This one had acorn noodles, sweet potatoes, and dates. This was a new dish for me, and I was very excited. We found the place easily with our GPS, and the soup was terrific. Everything I could have hoped for. Typical of so many places to eat in Korea, there is not much of a menu, just maybe a few variations of the same dish. Knowing Hangul and food items, it was easy to select. We ordered one big soup for all three of us, and it came with banchan.
The next day was our museum day. We were the only visitors around. I have the feeling that this place gets mostly school groups, so if they are not there, you will have the whole place to yourself. The front desk clearly called someone after seeing Americans show up, because soon after we stepped into see the exhibits, an interpreter popped up to help us. She must have been very happy to see us as this place gets almost zero people from outside Korea. It is a big new museum that is, all the same, very sober. Everything is gray, and presented with little flourish and very few graphics. The interpreter was a big help. Next stop was the dome, the highlight of the museum, and it showed how the excavation was done and provided an overview of how the rooms of the tomb were laid out.
Outside the museum , there is a pretty trail along the unexcavated tombs, and this is a majestic area. Unfortunately, it started to rain heavily, and we were caught by surprise. Halfway up the trail my son started to limp, and I didn't know why. Back at the hotel, he told me he had an ingrown toenail. He knew about it before he went on the trip, but it didn't bother him so much so he didn't say anything. But now it was severe and looked ugly. When we were on the trail next to the museum, the interpreter had noticed him limping and mentioned taking him to the doctor. So I decided that, instead of going onto our next destination, we would go back to the museum the next day to seek out the interpreter and maybe she could help us find a doctor.
We went back, she made a phone call to clear her leave from the museum, and she accompanied us to a hospital. My son was seen quickly, and the doctor made an incision to relieve the pressure, and gave him stitches. He also wrote out a few prescriptions. The interpreter took us to a pharmacy where they filled them on the spot. They gave us a custom-made strip of pill packets, each one with a large roman numeral, and filled with the different medicines he would need each day. How civilized and easy! The hospital charged us a ridiculously small sum for the procedure, and the cost of the medicines was very low, not worth mentioning.
After this the interpreter took us to her favorite place to eat in town, serving gamjatang, or pork neck soup. The place was as humble as can be, and the soup was very simple. She said she liked it here because of how clear the broth was. We flavored the soup with various condiments, our favorite being tiny, tiny fermented shrimp. Outside in the street was a street market (this kind of market throughout Korea is often set up every fifth day). Some vendors had set up tables, but also many people were simply displaying their wares sitting down on a blanket stretched out on the ground. It is this kind of juxtaposing scene which has Korea teetering between the modern and traditional, with glimpses of a humble Third World amid the advanced technology. Goryeong itself is not a pretty place, mostly dilapidated buildings obscured by those ubiquitous vertical duratran-lit signs. At this point I wondered if I had made the right decision to come to Korea at all!
We were a day behind in our vacation, and we faced more and more rain, but the distances (even on the small road going up to Haeinsa) here were more easily covered than a similar road in Europe. So I got the feeling we weren't really behind at all.
That night we decided to go to a place near Goryeong where they raise ducks and serve duck bulgogi. I knew it would be rural, but we had the address and our trusty GPA. We arrived at the spot and saw nothing. Off the main street, there was a gravel road that branched off in two directions. One path led to a place that looked more industrial/warehouse, so we took the gravel road that led to houses, and more potential for farmland. Still, we saw nothing, asked someone in Korean who didn't know, and we returned to the spot where the gravel roads diverged. I then noticed on a fence there was a small, very weathered sign covered by tree branches. I brushed away the branches, and there was the Hangul I was looking for! So we followed that path to a very dilapidated structure. There was an old upright piano sitting out in the rain, and a refrigerated case for sodas, unplugged, sitting outside. No sign on the building what was inside or if it was open. As I approached the place, a woman came out and asked if she could help (in Korean). I said we were looking for something to eat – this is basic stuff you can find in any pocket translation guide. She said 'ouri?' (duck), and I enthusiastically nodded yes, and she led us inside.
Inside, the place was a trip back in time. It had a clay floor. There was a huge broom used for sweeping up the floor, leaning up against a wall made of wood chunks. A cast iron heater with a big stove pipe stood in the center of the room with bare wood tables. I saw through a beaded curtain an ondol room for eating. I have never seen anything quite so rustic. We sat down and she proceeded to bring us the banchan and set down a grill for the duck and some onions and mushrooms. She first made us a chive pajeon (pancake). We then wrapped the grilled duck, and vegetables with perilla leaves and dipped them into a tangy wasabi soy sauce. After we finished the duck, she brought out some rice and made a bibimbap of the leftovers. It was a big meal in a unique setting.
The heavy overnight rain finally cleared up and the next morning we had a beautiful day in Gayasan National Park, home to the famous Haeinsa, but also may other paths that lead to other temples and shrines. The landscape was lush, and the park looked like a beautiful place to explore. We saw a couple of very beautiful shrines and a collection of odd but dramatic turtle-themed funerary statues. Haeinsa itself is in a lush, pretty location. But I had heard that Korean temples were fairly austere, and, because many had to be reconstructed after Japanese ransacking and destruction, they had some awkward modern touches. The interiors at Haeinsa were not beautiful. The UNESCO World Heritage collection of historic printing plates were kept behind cages, and we couldn't really view them. So I was a bit disappointed in Haeinsa, despite the lovely location. I would love to go back to Gayasan, hike, and explore the landscape.
Maisan Provincial Park
We went on to my favorite stop of the trip, cutting east on a well-engineered mountain road to Maisan Provincial Park. On the way we ate at a highway rest stop and had a fantastic kongguksu - noodles in a cold soy milk broth. Surprisingly flavorful and refreshing, I slurped up every last drop. Upon reaching Maisan, we entered a relatively flat break in the mountains with two oddly-shaped and imposing 'rocks', the twin mountains of Maisan, looming ominously over the landscape. Together they looked like a pair of donkey ears. The prime destination here is a hike to Tapsa, a tiny temple wedged between the donkey ears around which a hermit had constructed around ninety stone pagodas (or rock piles). This is one of the most unique landscapes I have ever seen, combining unusual natural formations, cultural heritage, and a stunning piece of folk art. Beautiful, dramatic, touching.
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After Maisan, we drove to Jeonju where we had reserved out first hotel. For dinner, we tried to go to one of the famous bibimbap restaurants serving a unique Jeonju version, but we got there about 9pm and it was closed. Apparently this is too late for bibimbap! We drove around the neighborhood and found a bar with the simple name of 'Flower' in Korean. It was a hip hangout for young folks, and they had an extensive chalkboard menu. People at another table gave us an enthusiastic thumbs up for the dubu kimchi, so that's what we ordered. This was my first time eating this dish, and it surprised me. It is served as two different dishes. First, a row of sliced tofu had been steamed with sesame oil for a gorgeous flavor. On the other side of the platter, the kimchi was a fresh version, not the cold, heavily fermented version often served as part of the banchan. It was slices of cabbage, carrots, onion, and pork stir-fried in a pleasant red pepper sauce, served warm. Very delicious. The next day we visited the hanok village, probably the largest and best preserved area of its kind in Korea. Also convenient for people visiting Korea by public transportation. I was bit underwhelmed with this. We had a clear, scorching hot day, and the architecture is very nice, but it is a bit somnambulistic. There are subdued exhibits within some of the buildings, but the heat combined with the lack of excitement made it more effort than it was worth. Late afternoon we had an early meal of bibimbap at Han Gook Wan, one of the six bibimbap places featured on the Jeonju website. We tried both a cool verson with raw beef and egg yolk, and a crispy dolsot (stone pot) version. Both very good, and the haemul pajeon (seafood pancake) was the best I've ever had.
Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation
The next day we were on our way to Boseong and the Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation. First, we stopped at the Damyang Bamboo Forest norht of Gwangju. This also was a bit disappointing. A somewhat hilly, but ultimately dull lanscape with wide modern trails. This is where I realized the limitations of a bamboo forest, especially one that looked so antiseptic and new, like they just plopped it down as an afterthought.
Our next stop was at Boseong, and since we had made no reservations, we decided to look first at a couple of motels in town that were very dirty looking inside and pricey to boot! Boseong is not a pretty place. It was getting late, so I made a call to the 24/7 translation hotline operated by the Korean government, to get the address of a nearby tea plantation that I knew from my research had lodging. It was the golmangtae plantation, and there are reviews for this place all over the internet. In a very modern, fanciful complex of buildings – looked like a stuffed mushroom forest - they had a voluminous place for us with a kitchen, a normal bedroom, and a vast ondol room. Again, my daughter was ok sleeping on a mat, so this worked out well.
Before going to bed we had dinner at a tea shop at the bottom of the hill. It was a new place that a had a short menu – about three Italian items! There was a luscious noodles in cream sauce – outstanding, and fine sautéed pork cutlets. We elected not to risk the pizza. Of course this being Korea there was a banchan of kimchi, fermented black beans, and marinated radish.
The next day we snooped around their plantation and had tea in a cave where their tea is stored. We then took off for Daehan Dawon, and it is spectacular. I have not been to other tea plantations in Asia, and I am sure from pictures I've seen that there are many stunning ones, but this place is flat out gorgeous. We had that rare day which was partially cloudy but not rainy. It was glorious.
Nagan Stone Village
After a drive south through the tea valley, a beautiful landscape with many plantations dotting the hillside, we drove to Nagan Stone Village. An unusual and extensive stone village surrounded by a fortified wall. This is an old, traditional village open to tourism, but it is also a real living village where people reside and tend to farming their small plots. This is an example where a lot of people in Korea feel very connected to their traditions, religion, and the land. You are never far from modernism on one had and tradition on the other.
This is a beautiful and exciting place, and there is enough to explore here to spend a very full day. Maybe more. It's a lot of area to cover. I knew from weather reports, though, that there was a major hurricane approaching Korea. It was going off toward the west, so not a direct hit, but they were forecasting heavy rains and strong winds. This would be our second big storm of the trip. At this point we decided to veer off course, and not go so close to the coast as planned since it looked like the coast would get battered the hardest. So we improvised, I consulted our guidebook, and headed off to Jinju, a slightly inland city that featured an extensive underground market. Maybe at least we would feel protected there. Jinju also has a riverside castle in a historic park, but that was closed the couple of nights we were there because of the storm. On our way to Jinju we got off the highway and stopped to eat in the outskirts of Gwangyang. Although I am fond of saying there are eight places to eat in Korea for every step you take, this was one place where we saw only houses. After making a few turns in a residential area, we spotted a house-cum-restaurant. It was ondol seating only, so we had no choice. I had some trepidation about this, but there was enough room for me to stretch out a bit, and I was surprisingly fine with it. They had three different versions of the same soup, and we ordered all three, mine with soondae (a supple rice and blood sausage which is fairly mild tasting.)
After our late night arrival in Jinju, we decided to hit the market the next morning. My kids love to go shopping. The shops were fairly ordinary, and it was not a picturesque market, but we did find a couple of things to buy. After that we scoured the vast above-ground market which went on for many blocks. Although it was still raining, it didn't bother us as the market is completely tented. This is the kind of traditional market that dots Korean cities and keeps modern life at bay. We had a spectacular lunch at a nearby restaurant, and this was my first taste of galbi jim, braised pork ribs. A fantastic dish. A couple of ladies at a nearby table saw we looked like we needed help and gave us suggestions, though they did not know English, so they simply pointed. We also had a spicy octopus stew and the most generous banchan of the trip that included a couple of grilled fish.
Namhae Island
After our stay in Jinju, the storm passed and we took up our planned route to descend to the coast and visit Darangi Village on Namhae Island. The drive along the coast of Namhae is beautiful. Darangyi is a terraced village plunging down into the sea. In the right season (I think the Spring), there is plowing, and even educational hands-on activity. But in the summer it is fallow. Although the terraces and the village are not particularly attractive in the summer, the site and the coastal hiking trail is very beautiful. A trail goes over a small footbridge perched on some immense coastal boulders, and the trail continues along the coast, up hills and along a terrace of garlic and a pretty gazebo. We were thrilled being here, our first real view of coastal Korea. The water was a very pretty color. I imagine that in the Spring season you get the best of both worlds, combining coastal beauty with farming activity.
At a terrace restaurant, we had a pot of anchovies – a local specialty, along with an addictive kalguksu (knife cut noodles), here served with chopped manila clams. The noodles in Korea are so much better than what I am used to at home. In general with Asian food away from Asia, the noodles are the first thing to suffer in quality. So when in doubt always order the noodles! We then drove back to Busan to drop our car off at the airport and took a taxi to the hotel that we booked in advance. Our exciting and eventful road trip was over.
Next up, Busan and Seoul....
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I am really enjoying your report! You are a very descriptive writer! I am so impressed with your willingness to eat in the primitive place you described. I am sure you and your kids were the talk of of the village! Your description of the meals is making me want Korean food.
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The duck place with the clay floor was out of some kind of dream. Seriously, I had no idea of what I was in for, but it was so far from what I could imagine. I was also happy that I adjusted well to the ondol seating that I didn't blink an eye when we went to a place in Seoul where there was not a chair in sight. I also like the idea of staying in Korean motels which are a very different experience from other places I've been, including Japan.
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Wow, you had some adventures! Sounds like a great experience for you and your children. I look forward to hearing more.
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@kja You are from the DC area too, no? Do you have any favorite Korean places to eat?
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After eating Korean food IN South Korea, I haven't been willing to try any in the DC area again. (Same thing with several other cuisines, sigh.). Is there a place you recommend?
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I know what you mean. it is very easy to get spoiled. The more you know out about a cuisine, the less likely you will be pleased with weak iterations.
I live close enough to Annandale, where there at least 30 Korean restaurants in close proximity. and have explored quite a bit. My favorite place at the moment is very much like my experience eating in Korea: it's a place in a tiny house featuring a very limited menu and no bbq. It is called Mandu Rang Kimbap Erang. Get the small mandu, the ddoekboki, and the udeng kimbap. The limited banchan includes a very fine kimchi and a delicious clear chicken broth that has a delicate flavor enhanced with a touch of fish sauce or dried shrimp flavoring. Talk up the nice young man who runs the place, his mom does a lot of the cooking using her recipes. You may need help anyway since I am not sure there is any Englsih on the menu.
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Thanks so much for the speedy report on the "car" part of the journey. It's very helpful to have your experience.
I had expected Damyang to be a highlight but will be prepared. There is a garden just south of there that is meant to be really nice -the name escapes me at the moment. I hope that will live up to the reports.
I am interested to hear the Nagan Stone village is worth more time. I had thought it might be a short stop but will now allow a bit extra just in case.
Its great having more experiences from people. It's really only you and Kja that have reported on this area It is helping fill the gaps. We are just winging it and will stay in motels where ever we get to at night. Except for Gangjin further south where I need to be for a few days.
I'm looking forward to your experience in Seoul as well.
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The final week of our trip:
The hotel we booked in advance was the Elysee Motel, made to look on the outside like a French chateau. But with nearby buildings squeezed so close together, it's hard to get much of a sense of the exterior. The lobby is drab. The rooms have recessed ceilings above the bed with an outer space design of planets, stars, and hidden blacklight fixtures. So if you wanted to, you could turn off the regular lighting and just look up at the stars with their glow-in-the-dark quality. Maybe this was a love motel? Hmmm. I booked the hotel through Agoda, and when the manager of the hotel got my email address from Agoda, he sent me several documents in English about how to get to the hotel, with a step-by-step series of photos showing how to walk from the nearby subway stop. Also directions in Hangul to hand to a taxi driver. Very nice that.
Our first night, we walked through the colorful neighborhood, past the Lotte department store with its pretty light-changing display, across a boulevard, and onto a pedestrian street with tons of nightlife and packed with throngs of young Korean tourists. Despite the fact that plastic surgery, skin whitening, and hair coloring are popular for young girls here, we saw flocks of young Koreans with jet black hair and olive colored skin. This scene would not have been possible in Japan, where skin whitening and hair coloring dominate.
The next day was a time to finally do some laundry on our trip, and we took a taxi to a laundromat near the Bujeon subway stop. The hotel manager gave us a handout with directions; he was prepared for everything! We had a lot of laundry to do. Near the laundry I noticed a place specializing in duck bulgogi, so we went there while our wash was in process. This time the duck was heavily marinated first, and it was one of the best meals of our trip. So rich and fatty, and the duck got beautifully charred on the grill.
After we got back to our hotel, we got ready for another storm, so our best option was to go to the Shinsegae Department store, supposedly the biggest department store in the world. It has a golf driving range, an ice skating rink, and tons of other things inside. By this time we already realized that most Korean clothing would not fit my American kids – it was all very small sizes. Bit we tried anyway.
The next day we walked to the nearby markets. First to Jagalchi, the big fish market, a modern building with three or four levels. So many tanks of sea creatures and running water! Behind the fish market is a beautiful view of a bay and lines of boats. Looking to the land, you see the mountains and hills of Busan descending down to the water. The Korean San Francisco.
Here is where we ran into our only major language barrier of the trip. We went up via an escalator to the second floor of the fish market, where there is a dining hall. But there was only one door, and when we tried to open it, we were shooed away. Not sure what was going on, a woman directed us up to the third floor. We waited for a moment, to no avail, then decided to follow signs for a 'restaurant.' But this was no normal restaurant, it was a tiny room with a small kitchen where people working at the fish market could eat. We sat down, and without asking they simply starting serving us food. A pot of angler fish in a red pepper paste, a tofu stew, doenjigae, and a fabulous array of banchan including one of my favorite offerings of the trip, a freshly cooked omelet with pieces of liver. We paid a rather small amount of money – I had no idea how much this was going to cost as there was no menu and no sign. It was only later that I realized there were interior stairs from the ground floor of the fish market to walk up to the dining hall. Oh well. We then walked down the picturesque raw fish street – if we wanted we could have purchased 5,000 Won shoes here from a vendor who piled up his wares on the ground – and onto Gukje Market, another extensive market that went on for many, many blocks. It felt like an entire city. There were some old fashioned shops and some mod stuff as well. That night we decided to go to a small amusement park, ME World, at the opposite end of Gwangalli Beach. The park was dark and the scary rides truly scary – partially because things did not look safe or safely operated. It was a bit too wild for me. Allegedly it is patterned after the successful Cosmo World in Yokohama, but this place was not centrally located and it was poorly attended.
We walked along Gwangalli Beach, which is wonderful at night. The Diamond Bridge is a causeway that oddly parallels the shoreline connecting two outcroppings of land, and the bridge has color-changing lights at night. There are skyscrapers at one end that have impressive moving light displays. And there are occasional performers playing music. Along the street facing the beach is an array of 'international bars' and purveyors of food and drink aimed at international visitors. We wanted to get something to eat, and we spied a traditional Korean inn among all the flashy bar offerings, about a half block off the main drag. Inside, the place was full of Koreans. We got a pot of enormous mandu, each one the size of a large stuffed cabbage. They were unique and delicious, served in a broth heated with a flame and filled with several kinds of mushrooms and sliced vegetables. Later we got some bingsoo (a shaved ice dessert) at a fashionable coffeeshop called A Twosome Place. It was ok, but too Westernized for my taste.
Here is a link to the restaurant, highly recommended:
The next day we packed up and took a high speed train to Seoul. It was an easy and brief trip.
Getting out of the Seoul train station was a bit confusing. We went to an exit that turned out to be a kind of 2nd or 3rd story plaza with no obvious means of descending to street level. We finally found an external escalator and rather than deal with possible stairs to the subway we wound up at a taxicab stand. For some reason, the three of us plus our three suitcases would not fit in a single cab, so I was in one cab while my kids were in another. I had booked a motel near the Jongno-5 subway stop; it was not on a main street but as part of a labyrinth of alleys. Despite the very good map I gave them, the cab drivers seemed to have a problem finding the place. There was a point that I worried I might get separated from the kids, putting our vacation in a kind of permanent reverse. I gave the kids the name and address of the motel just in case. But we finally got there. It was the Ben Hur Motel, and true to form of Korean motels there were plenty of mixed metaphors in the hotel design. Out front, there was a mannequin with an astronaut space suit, Corinthian columns with twinkly lights, and inside more Roy Lichtenstein décor mixed with Roman themes. This was definitely a love motel as there was a box of condoms conveniently placed at the front desk. The room was for three people and had a loft and a small couch upstairs, the downstairs was tight in space but was decked out with lots of amenities with two PCs, and hidden storage with an electric kettle, coffee maker, alarm clock, etc. The bathroom had a glass wall….. which we were able to cover up with towels and bathrobes provided so we could have a respectable amount of privacy. It was a spiffy, new bathroom, and everything about the place was a combination of mod design and utilitarian function.
Form what I've read, a lot of people think of Seoul as just another modern city. But look on Google Maps and you will see, in between the wide boulevards, are huge swaths of alleyways, sometimes as large as 14 x 20 blocks. These comprise entire neighborhoods of residences, shops, and places to eat hidden from the normal tourist view.
Our first night we went to have BBQ at Majang Alley, the center of meat distribution in Seoul with at least a dozen restaurants clustered near many, many butchers and wholesale vendors. You buy your steaks raw from a counter and grill them yourself over coals with big, flexible venting tubes hovering over the flame. Very little in the way of banchan, this meal is all about the meat.
The next morning we went down the alley and right across the boulevard to the oldest market of Seoul, the Gwangjang Market, and searched out the bindatteok ladies freshly grinding mung beans for these gooey, large pancakes. At 4,000 won, sharing one was actually enough for a meal for all three of us. We went on to the Gyeongbokgung, the reconstructed palace with extensive grounds, and next door the National Folk Art Museum. Anytime you get a chance to experience folk art in Korea, it's a good idea. It is unique and remains important to the culture. This is a fantastic place, and outside there is a collection of different village architecture from throughout Korea. After that we exited the West Gate of Gyeongbokgung to go to a North Korean market store/place to eat that featured buckwheat noodles, a specialty of the North. There were about six low tables, and only ondol seating, but it worked our well for us. I was no longer a novice at this! We again had kongguksu. This was a lot thicker, creamier but less tasty than the version we had previously on the trip. They provided a dish of salt on the side to liven it up.
That night we decided to go to Nanta, the stage show that features juggling, percussion, and dancing all around the comic theme of preparing an elaborate banquet under pressure from a demanding boss. It is highly entertaining, and the talent on display is jaw-dropping. We liked it so much that we decided to go back another night to see The Original Drawing Show, yet another spectacle of physical theatre, this time based on performers creating visual works of art during the show. Although not as spectacular as Nanta, it was unique, curious, and fun. The shows were performed at a theatre center where there was one main stage and about three smaller performance spaces near the Seodaemun subway station. The confusing thing about Nanta is that it is not always performed at the same place or they sometimes have multiple venues going on at the same time with different casts. It is best to verify the address of the theatre for the evening and not to assume form a brochure or a poster or even their website..
The next day was our 'fun' day, going to Lotte World, a hybrid indoor/outdoor theme park right in Seoul. The half that is inside has about four levels, and some interesting thrill rides plus beautiful themeing. It not only has a picturesque 'balloon' ride that takes you on a overhead track way up in the air for a panorama of the place (you are so high up that the people below look like toys), but also the entire place looks over a huge, sunken ice skating rink, so from top to bottom is a thrilling perspective. Outside there are bigger thrill rides and a pretty view of the city. After our day was complete, we stopped off at the Daelim subway station to try Daelim Manuel Garlic Chicken. This is a special kind of fried chicken served with a mountain of garlic sauce. When you see the serving you are tempted to think that 'Korea' must translate into Land of Garlic. Hard to imagine how many shipments of garlic they must go through every day. The kids were also brave enough to order a pot of larvae (this was probably the only menu on our trip we saw that had some English). On the menu it was listed as 'chrysalis.' It came in a bubbling pot with a thin brown spicy liquid. It was very good on its own, but we finally found a use for all that garlic sauce that came with the chicken: we added to the larvae, and it was terrific. The chicken was wonderfully crispy, served on an iron platter, and accompanied by a dry shredded cole slaw with a heavy dollop of thousand island dressing on top. It was a fun, simple meal.
The next day we decided on a food related outing. Since we are all diehard tofu lovers, we decided to go to an area at the foot of Bukhansan National Park that had four places specializing in making their own tofu. Koreans strongly associate hiking with eating tofu. We took a very long subway ride out to Dobongsan station and walked to a commercial area where there was a dazzling array of hiking/sports stores, all with the latest gear. Tucked among the stores were some places that specialize in tofu. The one we chose had a patio that overlooked some tall trees, right up against a mountain, so we felt very much like we were out in the country. Well, in a way we were. Korea is so mountainous; where the city stops, the mountains begin.
We ordered an assorted tofu platter (served like bossam, with boiled pork, lettuce leaves, spiced veggies, and raw garlic cloves) and also another round of dubu kimchi. The tofu here is very colorful, some made blue with mugwort, others green or red. The flavor is not really unique, but the rough texture is. We though about going on a hike, but the fourth (and final) storm of our trip was coming in. And when it rains here, it pours! We took the long subway trip back and stopped at Dongdaemun Market where we hit up more shopping and exploring.
After that night, it was time for us to get everything ready to go home. We caught an early taxi to Inchoen airport. I had received an email offer for a super cheap upgrade, so not only did we fly back to Tokyo business class, but we got to use the lounge at the airport where we ate for free, which helped us pass the time waiting for our flight. We felt like VIPs.
Practical Lessons Learned:
If you're driving, distances are short and easily covered. Even those little back roads. So it is not too much trouble to go out of your way to see or experience something special.
Depending on the season, rain comes down in sheets, so flexibility in scheduling is good.
Korean motels are indeed cute, beds are very good (this is important!), and a vastly different experience from staying in motels elsewhere. We loved staying on our alley in Seoul; it got us off the main drag to see a slice of Korean life that we might not appreciate otherwise.
Thanks for following along. I dream of going back someday!
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Seems you continued to have some truly remarkable experiences! Your children are fortunate to have such early exposure to other cultures. And Nanta was fun, wasn't it?!? Thanks for your TR and for the tip on the Korean restaurant in Annandale.
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It didn't all go smoothly, and it didn't always live up to my expectations. So sometimes it's a question of attitude and letting the sense of place dictate to you instead of the other way around.
As a traveler, I very much enjoyed that I had the 'Best of Both Worlds:' Modern conveniences and a profound traditional culture. There are some things progress is not good for!
If you go to Mandu Rang Kimbap Erang, then let me know what you think. You can always send me a PM at stevenDOTsiegelATymailDOTcom
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I can't imagine a trip that is even slightly off the beaten trail that goes entirely smoothly, but as I see it, that's part and parcel of such trips One's sense of humor is a must-take!
I will, indeed, let you know if / when I go to Mandu Rang Kimbab Erang. As I said, I think I'll wait a while....
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>>>There was a point that I worried I might get separated from the kids, putting our vacation in a kind of permanent reverse.<<<
How I love your humour and observations, shelemm! This thread is blessed with truly gifted writers like you and the esteemed kja. Makes for a most enjoyable read this business travel Sunday morning in Seoul (and was scheduled to be in Hong Kong for meetings this week, but for various reasons, that's a reschedule). As I conveyed to kja, your impressions are an inspiration, as my S. Korea business trips to date have largely entailed Seoul hotels and office buildings and the Incheon airport. Also congratulate you on travelling with your children (and not losing them); I was blessed with similar opportunities as youth and certainly one reason my current posting is Singapore.
Speaking of SIN, always honoured to offer lodging, dining, aviation suggestions concerning our city-state.
Keep up the brilliant writing; warm Sunday wishes to you and all,
macintosh (robert)
... Singapore Airlines, You're a Great Way to Fly ...
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( @ AskOksena -- thanks, mackintosh! )
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@AskOksena I have heard so many great things about eating in Singapore. I feel like it's a must for me as soon as I can get myself together for a retuern to Asia.
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Hi Shelemm and Kja,
Enjoyed reading your posts (and the threads) on your trips to South Korea. You might enjoy reading ours on our travelogue: Audre & Dimitri's Traveling Love Affair. We start with our flight and arrival in Seoul and it continues on our meanderings through the country. At the end of each post, if you want to continue chronologically, go to the end of the post (below the comment box) and click "Older Post" (yes, it's counter-intuitive). The first post is:
We have a Maryland Korean restaurant question for you. Once in Maryland in 1999 or 2000, we went to a Korean restaurant where a man was making noodles. We think it was off of the Rockville Pike but not yet in Rockville. If Hyattsville is a right hand turn off of Rockville Pike, it was in Hyattsville. We haven't been in the DC area since 1993 so our memories are fuzzy!
The man at this Korean restaurant would knead the dough by throwing it against a Plexiglas window between him and the customers. It was a blast watching him and hearing the "thump" of dough against the window.
We thought that we would find noodle makers throwing dough against windows all over Korea. We never saw even one. The closest we came was "the mom" putting her dough through a machine in the tiny restaurant.
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Hyattsville is nowhere near Rockville Pike. There aren't many choices for Korean food near Rockville Pike, and nothing I've heard about regarding handmade noodles. There are a couple of ethnically Chinese Korean restaurants in Beltsville, MD. Those are the kind of places (noodle shops) that may have had something like that at one point.
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Thanks for your reply. Oh well, I guess the noodle throwing was a once in a lifetime experience!
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Fantastic trip report. Love the detail.
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Just for Girls Reading Comprehension, Grades 1-3
What girl can resist topics such as rainbows, best friends, picnics, and unicorns? This outstanding collection of original short stories, articles, interviews, biographies, advertisements and more is sure to capture - and hol - the interest of all your young femaile readers. The subject matter, characters, and graphics have been carefully chosen to relate to girls of this age group. Real-world applications address students' literacy development as they analyze a newspaper advertisement, a recipe, poetry, and magazine articles. The before, during, and after reading exercises incorporate effective, research-based reading comprehension strategies including: activating prior knowledge, predicting, visualizing, questioning, drawing inferences, summarizing, synthesizing, monitoring and repairing comprehension, and evaluation. Includes a teacher guide, teacher and student rubrics, read aloud observation form, and answer key.
Grade: 1-3
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Rooms, services Take a visit to Austria, either for a nice weekend or a longer holiday, and book a room at Bad Sonnenberg Pension Bludenz. 13 comfortably furnished rooms are offered by the pension to guests looking for accommodation in Bludenz. If you feel like having a meal not included in your chosen type of catering, you can always taste local dishes in the restaurant of the pension. If necessary, parking is available nearby. The local bar will provide an ideal location for personal meetings and nice evening chats. Wireless Internet connection (WiFi) is available at the pension, enabling portable devices and smartphones to go online. You can find the exact list of services provided by Bad Sonnenberg Pension Bludenz (including those for extra fees) and the exact equipment of the rooms on the information sheet below.
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The European World 1500–1800 provides a concise and authoritative textbook for the centuries between the Renaissance and the French Revolution. It presents early modern Europe not as a mere transition phase, but a dynamic period worth studying in its own right. Written by an experienced team of specialists, associated with a university module of the same name, it offers a student-friendly introduction to all major themes and processes of early modern history.
Structured in four parts dealing with socio-economic, religious, cultural and political issues, it adopts a broad geographical perspective: Western and Central Europe receive particular attention, but dedicated chapters also explore the wider global context. Thematic priorities include social structures, Reformation change, expanding cultural horizons and the emergence of the modern state.
Specially designed to assist learning, The European World 1500–1800 features:
The European World 1500–1800 will be essential reading for all students embarking on the discovery of the early modern period.


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CHICAGO — The Washington Capitals had everything to play for given their tenuous grasp on a playoff spot. They were plenty rested, too.
Still, they came out flat Sunday at United Center, spotted the streaking Chicago Blackhawks a two-goal lead, committed too many turnovers and fell, 5-2, as their margin for error in the Eastern Conference playoff race continued to shrink.
Just how bad was the Capitals' start? They did not record a shot on goal until 3 minutes 58 seconds remained in the first period. When Mike Green finally fired a shot on Blackhawks goalie Corey Crawford, the capacity crowd mocked the visitors with a Bronx cheer.
"We gave them a little bit too much respect, not coming out with much jam in our game," said veteran Mike Knuble, whose second-period tally was his second goal in three games. "Look up at the scoreboard three-quarters of the way through the first period, you're down 12-0 in shots. You can't come out like that this time a year. That can't be acceptable in our room."
The Capitals remained in sole possession of eighth place in the East, clinging to a two-point lead over ninth-place Winnipeg. The Jets lost at home to Carolina, 4-3, on Sunday night. Washington, though, remained five points behind Southeast Division leading Florida, which has played one fewer game.
Which made the Capitals' sluggish first period all the more curious.
"We need to come out every single game playing desperate," defenseman Karl Alzner said. "We didn't even have enough desperation in the third [period]. We're usually a team that goes, goes, goes. Maybe we got a little too relaxed after we had a few wins there and saw ourselves in a nice spot in the playoffs."
Alex Ovechkin, who tallied his 30th goal late in the second period, added: "We can't play like that, especially in that kind of a moment."
Coach Dale Hunter gave the Capitals a day off from practice on Saturday to recharge after a hard-fought loss in Winnipeg the night before. But the move backfired against a skilled Blackhawks' team that, despite missing concussed captain Jonathan Toews, had gone 6-1-1 in its previous eight games.
Chicago rookie Andrew Shaw scored the first of his two goals only 3:35 into the game when he inadvertently deflected Duncan Keith's point shot with his shin pad. Shaw was actually attempting to leap over Keith's shot when it struck him and bounced through Michal Neuvirth (24 saves).
About four minutes later, Viktor Stalberg showed the burst of speed that he's known for when he blasted around Dmitry Orlov at center ice and created a breakaway. Stalberg deked Neuvirth in the crease and extended the Blackhawks' lead to 2-0.
At the time of Stalberg's strike, the hosts led in shots, 8-0. The Blackhawks led 12-3 at the end of 20 minutes.
Knuble cut the Capitals deficit to 2-1 moments into the second period, but Patrick Kane answered about five minutes later. The Blackhawks' star capitalized on a chance created by a brutal John Carlson turnover deep in the Washington zone.
"It was turnovers from our back end," Hunter said. "Our defense was turning the puck over and making bad decisions with it."
Shaw's first career two-goal game — his second goal came on a wraparound after he slipped Jeff Schultz behind the net — made it 4-1 midway through the period. Shaw entered the game with seven goals.
Ovechkin answered with a vintage goal 5:32 before the second intermission. The Capitals' captain skated the puck nearly the length of the ice, put the puck between his own skates, whipped around Keith and fired a shot past Crawford to trim the Blackhawks' lead to 4-2 and give the Capitals a chance going into the third.
That chance, however, was short-lived. The Capitals mustered seven shots in the final frame and finished with only 18, their lowest total in 14 games.
"We thought we had a good opportunity to come back and win the game," said Troy Brouwer, who played in his first game here since being traded to Washington by the Blackhawks last June. "We just didn't have that determination, we didn't have enough push. We didn't create many chances in the third period and, as a result, we were hemmed in our zone the whole time and didn't any opportunities."
Capitals notes: Braden Holtby was recalled from Hershey and backed up Neuvirth. Tomas Vokoun was sidelined by a nagging lower body injury that Hunter characterized as minor. . . .
Back in Arlington, Nicklas Backstrom skated for a sixth consecutive day as he attempts to return from a concussion that has sidelined him since Jan. 7.


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CBS Radio recently revealed a new partnership with the major dance music label Astralwerks, resulting in a nationwide talent search for America's top female DJ/producer. After much success overseas in Europe and Australia, the "She Can DJ" competition has finally hit the United States, and it will launch in all major markets this July!
"Aspiring female DJ's/Producers need look no further than She Can DJ for that once in a lifetime chance to captivate an entire industry with their talent," said Greg Strassell, Senior Vice President, Programming, CBS Radio. "The electronic dance music movement has been playing out to much success on radio stations all over the United States, and CBS RADIO looks forward to advancing the genre."
CBS Radio stations across the US, in dance music capitals like New York, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Chicago, Detroit, Boston, San Francisco, San Diego, Houston, and Charlotte, will host the She Can DJ event, where 12 semi-finalists will compete and the grand prize winner will go on a headliner tour through the CBS Radio locations that hosted the competition and receive an exclusive recording contract with Astralwerks, the prestigious label known for signing some of the world's biggest names in dance music, like David Guetta, Swedish House Mafia, Fatboy Slim, and The Chemical Brothers to name a few.
"The United States is the hottest place on earth for dance music right now but the industry is largely male dominated. We're thrilled to be a part of a program that will help discover and develop top female talent in the dance music space," says Astralwerks General Manager Glenn Medlinger.
Stay tuned for more details, and check out the official She Can DJ web-site for rules, regulations, and updates!


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On This Day, March 29, 1979 – JFK Assassination Ruled a Conspiracy
1979 – The Committee on Assassinations Report issued by U.S. House of Representatives stated the assassination of President John F. Kennedy was the result of a conspiracy.
I. Findings of the Select Committee on Assassination in the assassination of President John F. Kennedy
- Lee Harvey Oswald fired three shots at President John F. Kennedy. The second and third shots he fired struck the President. The third shot he fired killed the President
- Scientific acoustical evidence establishes a high probability that two gunmen fired at President John F. Kennedy. Other scientific evidence does not preclude the possibility of two gunmen firing at the President. Scientific evidence negates some specific conspiracy allegations
- The committee believes, on the basis of the evidence available to it, that President John F. Kennedy was probably assassinated as a result of a conspiracy. The committee was unable to identify the other gunmen or the extent of the conspiracy
- Agencies and departments of the U.S. Government performed with varying degrees of competency in the fulfillment of their duties. President John F. Kennedy did not receive adequate protection. A thorough and reliable investigation into the responsibility of Lee Harvey Oswald for the assassination was conducted. The investigation into the possibility of conspiracy in the assassination was inadequate. the conclusions of the investigations were arrived at in good faith, but presented in a fashion that was too definitive.
1461 – Edward IV secured his claim to the English throne by defeating Henry VI's Lancastrians at the battle of Towdon.
1638 – First permanent European settlement in Delaware was established.
1847 – U.S. troops under General Winfield Scott took possession of the Mexican stronghold at Vera Cruz.
1848 – Niagara Falls stopped flowing for one day due to an ice jam.
1867 – The British Parliament passed the North America Act to create the Dominion of Canada.
1901 – The first federal elections were held in Australia.
1903 – A regular news service began between New York and London on Marconi's wireless.
1906 – In the U.S., 500,000 coal miners walked off the job seeking higher wages.
1932 – Jack Benny made his radio debut.
1943 – In the U.S. rationing of meat, butter and cheese began during World War II.
1946 – Fiorella LaGuardia became the director general of the United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Organization.
1946 – Gold Coast became the first British colony to hold an African parliamentary majority.
1951 – The Chinese reject Gen. Douglas MacArthur's offer for a truce in Korea.
1951 – In the United States, Julius and Ethel Rosenberg were convicted of conspiracy to commit espionage. They were executed on June 19, 1953.
1961 – The 23rd amendment to the U.S. Constitution was ratified. The amendment allowed residents of Washington, DC, to vote for President.
1962 – Cuba opened the trial of the Bay of Pigs invaders.
1962 – Jack Paar made his final appearance on the "Tonight" show.
1966 – Leonid Brezhnev became the First Secretary of the Soviet Communist Party. He denounced the American policy in Vietnam and called it one of aggression.
1967 – France launched its first nuclear submarine.
1971 – Lt. William Calley Jr., of the U.S. Army, was found guilty of the premeditated murder of at least 22 Vietnamese civilians. He was sentenced to life imprisonment. The trial was the result of the My Lai massacre in Vietnam on March 16, 1968.
1971 – A jury in Los Angeles recommended the death penalty for Charles Manson and three female followers for the 1969 Tate-La Bianca murders. The death sentences were later commuted to live in prison.
1973 – The last U.S. troops left South Vietnam.
1974 – Mariner 10, the U.S. space probe became the first spacecraft to reach the planet Mercury. It had been launched on November 3, 1973.
1974 – Eight Ohio National Guardsmen were indicted on charges stemming from the shooting deaths of four students at Kent State University on May 4, 1970. All the guardsmen were later acquitted.
1973 – Dr. Hook & the Medicine Show appeared on the cover of "Rolling Stone."
1992 – Democratic presidential front-runner Bill Clinton said "I didn't inhale and I didn't try it again" in reference to when he had experimented with marijuana.
1993 – The South Korean government agreed to pay financial support to women who had been forced to have sex with Japanese troops during World War II.
Source: Archives.gov: On-This-Day.gov


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This! +infinityYou and Magnus can sit here trying to beat this idea into each others heads all you want, it's not going make it true. Mark won this competition. Pretty easily too if you put a lot of stock in the games. The only thing stopping him from being named the opening day starter is that injury. GENO. ISN'T. READY. He looked like absolute garbage that entire game. Hell, I've watched the game multiple times and there is very little good to see from that game. Did he have a few decent moments? Yeah. However for the most part, his accuracy was poor, he STARED guys down the entire night, and I really emphasize "STARED" because honestly I was expecting the picks once I saw how bad the issue was, and his decision making wasn't great. First game jitters? I have no idea. What I do know is that Mark for all his flaws looked MUCH better when he played, and the offense clicked better when he was out there. Did he throw the pick in the Detroit game? Yeah. But for the most part he was pretty sharp the rest of the game. Jacksonville? He was pretty solid. One lapse in judgement before half that irked me, but as long as he knows better in the regular season, which I actually think he does, another good outing. The lone pick was on Winslow. You go look at each one of Geno's picks, you tell me which one of those wasn't THAT BAD. You honestly can't. The first one he held the ball way to long and the throw went behind the intended receiver, the second should NEVER HAVE BEEN THROWN, and the last one looked like he was having a staring contest with his guy. It was honestly one of the most pathetic INT's I've seen a professional QB toss and showed a complete lack of awareness. If it was Mark who threw ANY of those (especially the 3rd), this board would have honestly crashed.
Mark is going to be named the starter if he's healthy. You can pretty much quote me on it and consider it a guarantee. However, the only issue is I don't know how healthy he is. Only the team does, and it sounds like they want to keep quiet about it. Unless there is a strong strong stronnnnng push from Idzik, everything coming from the coaches mouths is that Mark is the better option for right now but Geno's upside due to his athleticism and strong arm is tremendous. Problem is it means nothing if he cant put it together, and Saturday he didn't get off to the right start. You guys also seem to miss two very big issues at hand. Barring an Alex Smith/Elite season from Mark, Geno IS going to play at some point this year. This team needs to know what to do with their first next year, especially if we suck and Teddy Bridgewater or any of the other top guys are going to be around where we're picking. Geno isn't going to get the Rodgers treatment or even the Kaepernick treatment because there's no steady vet to hold the fort down while he takes time to learn. Not to mention that if we suck, Rex will be fired and the new coach will want to bring in "his guy". Geno is likely going to get the Jimmy Clausen treatment. I've said it since before the draft. We'd take a 2nd-3rd round on a good QB prospect hoping we hit on the next Russell Wilson. If we didn't? Then we draft a QB with our first next year with a stronger crop of QB's.
When Geno is finally called upon, he better be ready. Otherwise he'll be second round backup like Jimmy. This isn't hating on Geno or calling him a bust, defending Sanchez, etc. This is being realistic and looking at the situation from all aspects. In the meantime, you delusional Sanchez haters or people who cant accept the fact that his career here at least has ONE more campaign, might be better off not watching football, or finally accepting that Mark WILL start if healthy.


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2017 Program Cost
UMass Students: $2,950.00
- Course registration, tuition, and activity fees
- Instructional costs and materials
- Shared apartment accommodation
- Tickets for 12 theatre performances
- Edinburgh City Walking Tour
- All-day Scottish Highland Tour
- First and last night dinners
- Medical insurance
Not Included:
- Airfare (approx. $1100.)
- Meals and Incidentals ($400.)
- Additional Theatre Tickets ($250.)
- UK Phone card ($25)
Required Deposit (included in program cost): $500.
Expenses can be kept lower by cooking meals in the apartment, budgeting evening entertainment wisely, and looking for half-price and "Free Fringe" shows. The Fringe supports a 1/2 price ticket booth for same day shows, and the Scotsman daily newspaper offers two-for-one ticket "deals." Street performances as well as museum exhibitions and free installations can count in the total number of 20 required performances.
The deposit for the course is due no later than Jan. 30. Accepted students are not guaranteed a space in the course until their deposit is received. There are only EIGHT SPACES this year for students. Deposits should be a check or money order (made out to the University of Massachusetts) and sent to Jean Karpinski, International Programs, 457 Hills South, University of Massachusetts, Amherst, MA 01003.
All students apply and register for this course directly through the UMASS International Programs Office.
Some institutions have financial aid available for international summer travel while working abroad on a project. Check with your department, the international programs office at your school, the grants office, and your financial aid office.
Program scholarships of $600. are automatically given to all UMASS students.
Commonwealth Honors College (CHC) at UMASS offers two $1,000 scholarships for CHC students. For more information and the application form, go: https://www.honors.umass.edu/scholarship/alternative-theatres-edinburgh-fringe-theatre-festival


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Also I've been discussing things with my parents, who have been planning to move to L.A. this spring/summer, and I just might (probably definitely will) go with them! I suppose an act of God could still hinder this plan, but it's pretty much set in stone at this point. It's a brand new plan though (we just started discussing it this past weekend), so it still feels unresolved and not quite real at this point, but it really actually is.
Anyway, they are moving there for my dad's business, and I had originally been planning to stay here in Oregon to finish my program, but... it turns out that the school is probably going to cancel the graphic design program after this year (nothing officially official yet, but my director says it's pretty grim at this point). So... in light of this, most of my class has actually been taking 2nd AND 3rd year classes this year (probably why I feel so busy) to try to cram in as much knowledge and experience as we can before this whole thing collapses. So really... there's no need to stay around next year and "finish" my program - I already will have taken all the design requirements and there are a couple general eds that need finishing, but that could really be done anywhere.
All this to say that... provided my dad can find a buyer for his Oregon business soon... I'll likely be in L.A. by June-ish. Crazy, right? That's like... three months away!
While it's probably not the city I would've chosen to move to had my options been limitless, it'll still be pretty cool, especially as I'll be closer to my niece and nephews!! Also the more I'm researching the area, the more excited I am about the cultural opportunities. We just don't have the concerts, museums, and plays here in rural-ish Oregon that they do there in the big city. (We'll actually be in the suburb of Santa Clarita, but even that "small" suburb is almost as large as the second largest city in the entire state of Oregon). I'm beginning to think there are no small towns in So.Cal., although my sister assures me there are. Lol.
So anyway... that's what's been keeping me busy lately. What's new with you?
|Besides Magic Mountain, Santa Clarita is known for it's wildfires!


text:
936 comments found.
I am interested in purchasing the theme. My need is to change the core of the theme, changing the operation of the slider to search dropdown? Example:. From 10000 to 20000. Is possible?
If you have some php coding experience and also experience with WordPress coding, then editing the search form fields would be as easy as editing/creating a custom WP_Query by default those fields like in your picture aren't available, so you'll have to edit it yourself or hire someone that can do it for you.
hi , is it any possibility to add infinite scroll feature to car listing?
Not by default, the theme doesn't have this feature. You can probably find some useful tutorials through google for example one is http://www.markwarddesign.com/2014/02/remove-custom-post-type-slug-permalink/
I just bought this theme and its really working well except for some glitches.. my logo is way down to the right and that pushes my navigation down. I want the logo to be on the left and will aligned with my navigation.
2, I need help adding more "Make & Models 3, At the moment, they can only upload 5 images, can I add more images like 10 4, I need help adding vehicles brands to the homepage and linking to its page but no luck so far. 5, Can i add a slideshow to the homepage. Currently using homepage search 6, Is there a way i can charge for placing their vehicles to be featured.as a featured vehicle on homepage? 7, On the New Vehicle form, can i change Vehicle country to province? 8, Can i have other 3rd party advertise on my website? Either on my header or sidebar? 9, Can i have a customized page for each dealer? 10, can i import dealers inventory in a CSV format?
Thanks for your assistance so far. great work…
All support is handled on our forum here, that makes it easier for us to manage support requests.
Please kindly submit your support request on our support forum , and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Thank you.
Ur forum is so complicated to add my concern
pls kindly process my concern as soon as possible pls. i sent a request in 2 weeks ago and still no update. i hope i will get an update on this urgently pls and ty
So let me understand it clearly, in your first post you say you just bought the theme and then in your second comment you say you've sent a request 2 weeks ago? Just to let you know that i haven't received ANY other message from apart from the comment above.
1) You haven't posted in the forum. 2) I haven't got any email from you. 3) This is your only comment here.
So there's clearly no other request from you 2 weeks ago.
As said in my previous post, support is provided only on the support forum where everyone else requests support. I can see you've already got an account, add your license like explained on the support forum itself and open up your topic into the correct section here http://themesdepot.org/forums/forum/themes-support/autodealer-car-dealer-marketplace-premium-wordpress-theme/
The reason i need you to post on the support forum is because some of your questions are already answered there and i can link you directly to the topic or you can find the answer yourself by searching on the forum as well as it's much more easier to manage support requests there.
ok will do that. quick one, how can i position my logo to the left and also when I did password reset i received this " To login go to http://autoalley.ca/wp-login.php. Is there a way i can remove the "wp-login.php" and just same my domain name
I have answered your topic on the forum.
pls how can i edit header width
srr height
Please keep using your topic here http://themesdepot.org/forums/topic/webiste-template/
Very nice theme. Just would like to confirm a few points before purchase:
1. Can I easily add/change/delete different search criteria for cars? 2. Can I easily add/change/delete features of cars? 3. Can I change 'vehicle age' to 'year of manufacture'? 4. Can I add tabs (or buttons) for vehicle videos to show on individual car page? 5. Can I add tabs (or buttons) for vehicle reviews to show on individual car page? 6. Can I import files containing vehicle details from another system in CSV, HTML, XLSX format?
1) I would say it depends on your wp coding understanding. To edit the search form fields you will need to edit the code of the theme some fields are easy to add, some are harder too add, all depends on your wp/php coding knowledge.
2) All the features of the cars are simple taxonomy terms. Like normal posts categories they can be easily added/changed/removed from your WP dashboard.
3) It's a simple label, so you can just rename the label for this.
4) This would need code modification. Unless you add it directly into the description of the vehicle.
5) Theme doesn't have such feature, so depending where these reviews will come from you will still need to edit the code to add additional tabs.
6) Vehicles, vehicles details, and vehicles features are all standard WordPress post types, metafields, taxonomy terms. So if you wish to import a CSV file you need to make sure that you format your file correctly. I would suggest using this plugin https://wordpress.org/plugins/really-simple-csv-importer/
Hello, im looking for a classifieds plugin for my web
I explain: my website is about selling cars and motorbike, I need a plugin that gives me the ability to create 2 forms, one for cars and another one for helicopters, where any form you can add different fields, whether combobox or textbox also need the plugin has a shortcode or something that makes me show certain products on the homepage, like are now on the website (they are established with WooCommerce and shortcode), and the last… i need a search with customize fields, (are 10 search fields) is it possible to do this with your any plugin?. Thank you.
The submission system of the theme comes with a plugin that you'll receive with the package when downloading it from themeforest. The submission system however doesn't allow more than 1 submission form. The search form of the theme is customizable, there are instruction into the documentation of the theme that show you how to do it but you need coding/wp coding knowledge.
Hi there,
please let me know if it is possible with little effort to disable the frontend submission temporary by simply not providing the link for that?
Thank you!
The submission form is a page template, so to disable it, either remove the link from your menu, or also you could change the page template to the default page and write a little message saying it's temporarily unavailable
I want to purchase your theme but there some basic problems that you haven't resolved.
1) When I search vehicles by Manufacturer and a list is displayed I'm not able to sort them by anything E.g. Price or Name A-Z. I can select the Price High to low option but the order of the vehicles does not change to price High to low.
2) If I choose vehicle by type from drop down list at the top of the page. And say I choose city cars, only 5 cars are displayed then I have to scroll to next page. I need at least 12 cars on 1 page
3) From the homepage I'm not able to search all the vehicle at once. I must have the Manufacturer or at least 'All Manufacturers' selected. I need to be able to search without selecting any filter so I can see all of the inventory of vehicles. Or you must make 'All Manufacturers' the default filter.
I'd need a solution for these issues straight away I'm not waiting until your next release.
1) This has been fixed and the update is waiting to be approved on themeforest.
2) This can be changed through the theme options, i don't see how this is a problem that needs to be fixed like you mentioned.
3) This was already mentioned by a few buyers and the behavior has been changed into the next version that is waiting to be approved on themeforest.
I personally do not see why someone would be against updates, if you do not wish wait, do the changes yourself if you're capable of.
I would like to purchase this theme, but I need to make sure it suits my needs first, so I have a few questions:
1. Can I limit the number of cars and pictures the dealers can upload to my site?
2. Can a dealer has a different amount of cars he can list, based on membership/user/group status
3. Is there a built-in recurring subscription feature?
4. I have a domain and a subdomain, so I have two separate WordPress installs, can I use this on both the main domain and subdomain or will I be required to buy two licences?
1) Yes you can set the amount of vehicles through different packages through the backend. The amount of images is "global", the current limit is 5 images. If you wish to increase/reduce this limit you need to edit a file of the theme.
2) Same as above, the amount of vehicles the user can submit is handled through the option that you set for each package. For example you can have a package with 5 cars, and another package with 10 cars.
3) No, the theme doesn't have such feature.
4) I think that since it's on a subdomain, a single license should be fine. If you have any doubts on this i would suggest reviewing the license page here http://themeforest.net/licenses or contact Envato support for further clarification.
Thanks for your answers to my questions.
I bought the theme and I have been using it for several days now. It's nice, I really like some of the features and styling, but I have run into a few roadblocks and found a few bugs in it.
I will post my new questions on the main support forum, but I had a follow-up question about your answer to #1.
What file do I need to modify to change the number of vehicles?
Thanks, Mike
If as number of vehicles, you mean the amount of vehicles users can post through their packages, you do not have to modify any file. The amount of vehicles per package can be configured into the package setting when you create it. Make sure you read the documentation it shows you step by step how to create a package.
i would like to purchase these theme. Before this, I have one Question:
Is it possible to use these theme for a marketplace with other products than cars. So i want to look for electronic things, books and so on…
It depends on how you wish to structure your website. In your specific case you say you want electronics, books, etc. The "vehicles" layout of the theme can be used only for a single post type, therefore the frontend submission form will have only specific fields, and unless you modify it yourself, it won't display different fields based on what the user is going to submit (books, electronics, etc.)
So if you wish to use the same layout has the vehicles, like displayed on the demo, it would need quite a few modifications. However if you wish to keep the same layout for the vehicles, but you want to sell other products, then using woocommerce like showed on the "shop" page on the demo, should be enough.
Update 1.4.8 is available for download
As always the changelog can be found into the theme description page here on themeforest.
Hello I bought the model, Congratulations very beautiful. I translated it to PT_BR through CodeStyling more parts like Vehicle Localization "Fill In All The Details Required Details Here." Review Submitted DetailsReview The Details Here. "Interior Features (optional), automatic air conditioning "did not translate it automatically. Where do I find the option to change them in the code of the model?
Could you help me?
Thank you.
At the time we selected to do the install in the wordpress dashboard it loads up a page out of the air and does not install the theme. What is wrong?
I managed to install, but does not load the pages. Reports that the pages of the topic does not exist. Look this please : http://multiautos.com.br/
All support is handled on our forum here, that makes it easier for us to manage support requests.
1) Certain sections of the theme are powered by the plugins included, use the codestyling localization to translate all the "TDP" plugins.
2) If you can't upload the theme it's because of a restriction on your host it's already explained here http://themesdepot.org/kb/cant-upload-the-theme-i-get-error-are-you-sure-you-want-to-do-this-please-try-again/ in short, upload the theme via FTP.
3) You haven't completed the setup. Read the documentation, one of the required steps is to save the settings into the theme options panel, and you clearly haven't.
Please kindly submit your support request on our support forum , and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Thank you.
[ VERIFY MY PURCHASE ON YOUR SUPPORT FORUM http://themesdepot.org/forums/users/harmonikas996/ ]
Hello sir,
First of all, thank you for this lovely theme! I love it!
My first question is…
Is possible to add icons for different types of vehicles? In order to understand what I'm trying to tell you, please go and check http://www.mojauto.rs/
Of course, I'm looking for something more subtle. To only display images after "Search Vehicles" title on homepage.
Second question…
Is there any way to add new vehicle description field?
For example now I have "Model, Body type, Registration Fuel Type Engine Power, ..." but I want to add few extra things in that same table.
And also, where I can remove some of those fields?
Thanks in advance!
Best regards, Luka
All support is handled on our forum here, that makes it easier for us to manage support requests.
Please kindly submit your support request on our support forum , and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Thank you.
Hi, I can't create new topic on support forum.
"Please note: no support is available during the weekend. The support times are Monday through Friday, 9am to 5pm (GMT+0) (UK)."
I do not understand why is not possible to create new topic, and then when you start working you can reply on it. Why I need to wait Monday 9AM to open topic?
Best regards, Luka
That's just message. It doesn't stop you from posting a topic. The message is just saying that i'll most likely won't reply on weekends since i might not be available.
So it means that I've opened 10 topics
You should add some message after user clicked on SUBMIT button. It doesn't make any sense to get that INFO message, and most of users will think that they didn't started topic at all.
Because I can't see my topic and can't get info on my profile (Forum Role: Participant, Topics Started: 0, Replies Created: 0)...
Best regards, Luka
1) I personally don't see how that can be confusing since everyone else is using the forum with no problems at all. The most recent topic was posted 1h40mins ago. So there's no issue with that.
2) Your license has been purchased for the following user http://themeforest.net/user/MooseThemes please use the user with which you've purchased your license. I've deleted your empty account so you can re-use your license. Again, register with the original account and then open up a topic.
If you have any other question on how to use the support forum, or if you have any issue with your account on the support forum please send me an email through the contact form on my profile page.
In "my garage" sub-menu does not work.
See this picture: http://www.departamentosenventa.cl/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/my-garage.jpg
..Sorry for my English
All support is handled on our forum here, that makes it easier for us to manage support requests.
Please kindly submit your support request on our support forum , and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Thank you.
can i have a page with all the shortcodes used in the theme?
All the shortcodes are available into the shortcodes manager on the page editor. Click the button to display all the shortcodes available.
this is my pagehttp://www.yescar.it/wp-content/themes/autodealer/images/page.jpg
but I do not see the button for shortcodes manager
I've answered your topic here http://themesdepot.org/forums/topic/vehicles-shortcode/#post-20312
In short: you haven't enable all the plugins required by the theme.
Any further support request will be redirected to the support forum.
Because the codex
"[vehicle_tabs amount="4" ]"
always displays in the box late and only after the scroll of the page?
is possibie suppress the display after scrolling?
All support is handled on our forum here, that makes it easier for us to manage support requests.
Please kindly submit your support request on our support forum , and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Thank you.
I need to add currency chilean peso
The supported currencies list is the one supported by the gateway you are using. Since the cart system is powered by WooCommerce, you need to find a gateway compatible with WooCommerce that supports your currency.
Very nice looking theme. One question: would there be a way to search for vehicles by location? Say, within 500 miles of a certain zip code? I'm looking to build a national site centered around one specific type of car, so location of the buyer and seller will be very important. Thanks.
I found out that this is not possible by looking through previous questions. Would it be possible to integrate something like http://geomywp.com/ into the native search of the Autodealer theme?
I do not believe that the geomywp plugin is a good solution for this purpose, since it looks like that the plugin itself requires a specific metabox to appear for the custom post type, meaning:
- The search form is separate from the theme's search form. - The address/coordinates work only with the custom meta field that the plugin requires. - It will make the map field on the theme submission form useless since you would then need to edit the form to match the metafield required by the plugin.
How can I change the price vehicle format? It's XXXX.XX and I need set X.XXX,XX
Please read here http://themesdepot.org/forums/topic/how-to-change-currency-formatting-for-vehicles/
Thanks, but this web-forum tells me: "You must have valid license to access this forum."
You need to register to the forum and use your license code like the instruction on the registration page show you.
I'm using the AutoDealer theme, and in Québec French the correct way to right a price is as follows: 24 184,26 $. However when I try to write my prices with a space in them, the theme is recognizing my 30 000$ as 30$, is there a fix for this somewhere, or where can I do something in a child theme to override this problem?
Thank you!
Please read here http://themesdepot.org/forums/topic/how-to-change-currency-formatting-for-vehicles/ you need to set your currency.
Hello, Is it possible to put the site in "boxed" mode ? Not "fullwidth" mode
The theme doesn't have such feature.


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Arizona's solar industry has grown tremendously in recent years. With abundant solar resources and (until recently) favorable policy frameworks, the state has grown to total 701 MW of installed solar capacity, ranking it second nationally behind only California. However, Arizona's growth in solar has slowed since 2013, in part as a result of ongoing controversies involving the state's major electric utilities. Arizona is seen by many as ground zero in the evolving battle between utilities and distributed generation proponents.
Utility Charges Impeding Solar Deployment
In 2013, the Arizona Public Service (APS) sought to impose major charges on distributed generation customers, but was largely rebuffed by the Arizona Corporation Commission (ACC). APS requested a monthly charge for net-metering customers of $8 per kilowatt of installed capacity for grid connectivity, a charge that could have exceeded $50 monthly on average. A compromise was approved by the ACC, authorizing a "connection fee" of $0.70 per kilowatt of installed capacity per month for net-metered customers, about $5 a month based on average usage. This result was generally viewed as averting a major threat to distributed generation deployment in the APS service territory.
In February 2015, however, Salt River Project (SRP), the retail electric utility for Phoenix, approved a pricing plan that would add a fee of about $50 per month to all leased and owned solar systems, through a higher fixed service charge and demand charges. The new charges are scheduled to take effect in April.
SRP claims the new fees are needed to ensure solar customers pay their fair share for their use of the electrical grid, and to support maintenance and upgrades on the network. According to Credit Suisse, the $50 per month charge makes the economics of solar in SRP's area "effectively non-viable."
In response, SolarCity filed a lawsuit in federal court in Arizona, asking the court to stop SRP's allegedly anti-competitive behavior. SolarCity says that SRP has "sabotaged the ability of Arizona consumers to make this choice if they happen to live in SRP territory. We can already see the intended effects: After the effective date of SRP's new plan (December 8 of last year), applications for rooftop solar in SRP territory fell by 96%." SolarCity contends that the fee would jeopardize the more than 9,000 solar jobs in Arizona.
As an alternate strategy, in mid-2014 APS sought regulatory approval of its proposal to install solar panels at no cost to the homeowners. The program, called "AZ Sun DG" would install 3,000 residential 4-8kW solar systems. APS would effectively be leasing consumers' rooftops for a $30 a month savings on their bill.
In late December, the ACC voted to approve APS's request, although with certain restrictions and conditions. The ACC approved a similar type of program proposed by Tucson Electric Power Company. With these decisions, Arizona utilities may increasingly seek to act as active participants in the solar and distributed generation markets.
Tax Interpretation Under Fire
In July 2014 the Arizona Department of Revenue (ADOR) took the position that solar energy equipment is taxable if it is owned by a solar company and installed on another person's property. ADOR assigned the value for property tax purposes at 20% of the system's depreciated cost, which amounts to about $152 a year for an average solar customer. The Department's action has prompted a lawsuit by SolarCity and SunRun. As 85-90% of the state's rooftop solar installations are leased, rather than owned, this new tax could have a strong negative impact. The lawsuit is ongoing.
Solar Business Practices Investigation (or Anti-competitive Utility Assault?)
In December 2014 the ACC launched an investigation into the business practices of the rooftop solar industry, a move that aims to address mounting concerns that solar leasing companies are misleading consumers. More recently, information has surfaced that APS was behind a campaign to have members of the U.S. Congress call for similar investigations into alleged deceptive solar business practices.
As these developments indicate, distributed generation will continue to be a contentious issue in Arizona. Developers and investors considering the major opportunities presented there should give careful consideration to these shifting dynamics.
Special thanks to Morgan Gerard and Emma Spath who assisted in the preparation of this post.


text:
Location: blackpool, United Kingdom
Member Since: November 2006
Open for read requests: Yes
Featured by author
Profile Information
My name is dani and i live in blackpool and i go to palatine community sports college am enjoyin time in school sometimes not all the time cause it does get boring but i got a lot of talent for writin poems cause i have a lot of poems i think of on my own and write them down and i show people and they give me some good reasons on what i should do with them and it makes me write more of them i have a book full of them and i read them and it makes me tihkn of something or a subject i could write poems on .
i enjoy writin poems because its the onli thing i am good at and i want to publish a book in the future full of my poetry.
This is where you can leave a short message for the writer. All Quickees are public. To leave a private message, use the private.
If you want to write a quickee (a remark or a hint for example) on this writer's profile, please sign in.


text:
3:15 Trailer (1985)
31 January 1985 Action, Thriller, Crime 86 mins
Violent crime is routine. Organized drug trade runs rampant in the face of powerless authority. And a vicious street gang holds dominion with a savage reign of terror. Welcome to Lincoln High! Here the cobras rule the school and everyone in it. Everyone except for Jeff Hanna.
Watch the official 3:15 1985 trailer in HD below or find more 3:15 videos on Vidimovie.


text:
Our Customers Say:
…a great deal of the action was in front of our seats. Thanks for the upgrades they worked out very well.
—T. Tracy
The Diamond Seating Chart, Map and Tickets
San Francisco, California
The Diamond AddressThe Diamond
47 Stoney Street
San Francisco, CA 94134
Directions to The Diamond


text:
Tom Jones: 'I didn't say my wife has lost her spark, I said SHE feels she has lost her spark'
Tom Jones received international backlash over a recent interview where he revealed that his long-term wife Linda suffers from depression and has "let herself go".
Veteran singer Tom Jones has hit back at critics who branded him sexist after he was quoted in the Sunday Times newspaper last week as saying that his wife, Linda, had "lost her spark".
Read more: 'She's lost her spark and let herself go' - Sir Tom Jones reveals wife's battle with depression
"I didn't say, 'Linda has lost her spark'. I said, 'Linda feels she's lost her spark.' It's not the same thing," he told the Telegraph.
"She has emphysema and she's not happy with the way she looks," she added.
Tom married Linda when the pair were 16 years old, and he maintains that she is still an "unbelievable woman".
"I carry a young picture of her wherever I go because it's a wonderful memory," Tom revealed. "But not because she looks better on it. I've asked her if I can take a new picture and carry that around, but she doesn't want me to.
"I did say I love talking to her on the phone because when we talk on the phone we're young again. Age doesn't matter on the phone."
In the same interview, he was asked if he regretted the string of affairs he had had during his long career, including a rumoured dalliance with Miss World Marjorie Wallace in 1976.
The Welsh singer was also linked to the Supremes singer Mary Wilson during his prolific career.
However, the "Sex Bomb" singer retaliated, "No, because I never hurt anybody, it never backfired on me."
In his autobiography, due to be released this week, Jones insists that his wife is the only woman he has ever loved.
Online Editors
Promoted Links
Related Content
- 'She's lost her spark and let herself go' - Sir Tom Jones reveals wife's battle with depression
- Jones's peculiar marriage is not that unusual
- Tom Jones: an eye for the ladies


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It's pouring rain, so I'm trying to make dinner from what i have at hand. I have some blue cornmeal, so I was thinking of a vegetarian tamale-pie type casserole. I've seen some recipes where the cornmeal is made into a cornbread batter with egg, and some where it's made into polenta.
I haven't actually made this before-- which way should I go?


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|Nominating and Governance
|Sam Levinson
Sam Levinson - Mr. Levinson has been a member of our Board of Directors since May 2013. Since 2004 Sam Levinson has been a principal and managing partner at Glick Family Investments, a private family office located in New York, New York where he oversees private equity investments. Mr. Levinson has experience serving as a member on several boards and as a Chairman of the Audit Committee for Canary Wharf Group. Mr. Levinson has served as a director of Canary Wharf Group in London, a U.K. property developer and manager of office and retail space, since 2004; of Songbird Estates, Canary Wharf Group's holding company, since 2004; of Coleman Cable Inc., a manufacturer of wire and cable, since 2005; of American European Group Insurance Company since 2006 and of Dynasty Financial Partners, LLC, which provides investment and technology platforms for independent financial, investment, and wealth management advisors, since 2011. Additionally, Mr. Levinson served as a director of West Coast Bancorp of Portland, Oregon from February 2011 until its sale in April 2013. Mr. Levinson is also the founder, president and controlling shareholder of Trapeze Inc., a real estate investment company, where he has served since 2002. We believe Mr. Levinson is qualified to serve on our Board of Directors because he is an experienced executive and director with numerous years of experience in the financial industry.
|Richard A. Mirro
|Scott Mumphrey
Michael McFadden, CFA
Stonegate Mortgage Corporation
Email Michael McFadden