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I started off planning for this trip with 3 goals in mind - I wanted to go to the Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast and Lake Como. George Clooney had something to do my wish to go to Lake Como but that obsession is another topic altogether.
So having come back from my fabulous holiday I was in 2 minds about this trip report. Should I write it, should I post it?? In the end I decided that I get such enjoyment in reading trip reports on this forum that I had to post.
So here goes...
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Mama Mia Italy!
I started off planning for this trip with 3 goals in mind - I wanted to go to the Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast and Lake Como. George Clooney had something to do my wish to go to Lake Como but that obsession is another topic altogether.
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8 & 9 June Travel day and Dubai stopover
Flew on Emirates from Adelaide, South Australia. This is an evening flight and the day felt extra long….
The flight was really good. There were a of couple empty seats between my neighbour and me which she let me use during the night to sleep.
Emirates have an incredible entertainment selection and the food was really tasty. I finished everything on the tray J
Dubai airport has good signage and I was through customs in a jif. I picked out what I thought was my bag and decided to throw my back pack inside. Oh oh not my bag! I quickly retuned it to the carousel and waited for my bag. There were a lot of Samsonite Cosmolite suitcases and a a couple of red ones!! The red suitcase might have to become a hot pink suitcase in future….
I ended up in private taxi from airport (Lexus) and was charged 70 AED which I know was too much.
I stayed at the hotel Al Ghurair Rayhaan by Rotana which I had got on hotwire for a bargain AUD110.
As I walked into the hotel my impressions were – Hotel was really nice, very 5 star, huge room. I had landed at 5:15am was at the hotel by 6:15am. The reception staff asked me to wait in restaurant and had my room ready in 45 mins. I had a complimentary cappuccino in Liwan restaurant while I waited.
Once in the room which was huge I called home to let the family know that I had arrived safely. Then took a short nap and then shower before taking the metro to Dubai mall. Metro was clean and right across the road from hotel. Cost 11AED. I was in Dubai Mall in 20 mins.
Dubai mall was amazing! Saw the fountain show at 1pm. Really big and beautiful. I ended up buying 2 jeans from American Eagle Outfitters for 260 AED. I wore these on my trip so it was worth the extra weight in my suitcase. I saw the aquarium wall, the ice skating rink and souk section of the mall. It was so hot in Dubai. 40 degrees and humid.
Took a taxi to Al Karama and went to an Indian restaurant called "Bikanerwala" for dinner/snacks at 5pm. I had intended to go to the Gold souk but was too tired to continue. So after my meal I took another private taxi to the hotel because couldn't find a metered cab.
At the hotel, I managed to do online check in and print my boarding pass.
Then to bed by 8pm. Up at 5am for morning flight to Rome FCO at 9:10am. I took normal metered cab which was only 13AED!
Here is the a link to the post with photos
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10 June Arriving in Rome
Had a very good flight from Dubai. It was a 9am flight and I had my boarding pass so no rush in the morning. I flew on the A380. It always amazes me that something of that size can fly. A comfortable few hours to Rome.
They served lunch enroute and it was the tastiest airplane food ever! I had ordered the Asian vegetarian meal. I am a vegetarian so it wasn't just to get my meal early J
Landed in Rome on time at 1pm. I had read so much about the terrible FCO airport and was worried about luggage but it popped out within a few minutes .
Outside the luggage claim were 50 people with names waiting to pick passengers. It was a free for all but I found my lady after a few minutes and we were on our way in a minivan! There was just me and another couple and I was first on the list. I had booked the shared transfer from Viator and had no issues or problems.
On the way the driver took us around the Roman Forum and Circus Maximus. Also saw the Capitoline Museum and Vittorio Emmanuel monument. He dropped me off on Via Del Corso as the hotel is down a pedestrian lane. All I had to do was cross the street and walk 50 meters.
I stayed at the Albergo Cesari for 5 nights. Check in was smooth and easy. The room was clean and larger than I thought. Furnishing is tired but it is adequate. The location is incredible.
Unpacked and changed into something lighter as it was hot in Rome. 32 degrees and humid.
I headed out to the Pantheon via Giolitti. The best gelato I've ever had – or so I thought J I had Cassata and Amarena. Yum...
I strolled to the Pantheon.
Note:- Here I'll quickly mention that I used my phone for directions all through the trip. I have an Iphone on Aust Vodafone plan and an option which allows me to use the plan overseas for $5 per day extra.
I did the Rick Steves' walking tour on my phone which worked really well. I can't really express this feeling that comes over you when you are inside the Pantheon. It is over 2000 years and so well preserved. But as I gazed up at the oculus I thought that we may have made progress in terms of technology but maybe lost something along the way.
I walked from the Pantheon to the Basilica Santa Maria sopra Minerva. This is the only gothic church in Rome. The ceiling is absolutely stunning – blue with gold stars. This was one of the few peaceful quite churches I visited.
From there I walked to the Piazza Navona. The square was packed full of tourists trying to find a spot in from of the famous fountain for a photo. I decided to sit, relax and people watch for a bit. The Fountain of the Four Rivers is topped by an impressive Egyptian obelisk. Bernini's art is spellbinding. I had booked a tour of the Villa Borghese the next day and this was just a preview of what was to come. There are 2 other fountains at either end of the square in addition to the central master piece.
There were a number of artists selling art work. I was so tempted to buy a painting from one of the sellers in the Piazza. It would look amazing in my room at home but I worried about carting it about Italy. At 5pm I felt a few drops of rain and decided to head back to hotel. On my way back I stopped at a little grocery where they were doing free liqueur tastings. I went in and tried the Limoncello which was delish but once again too early in the trip for me to purchase anything.
I had a little rest before heading out at 6:30pm for passeggiata down Via del Corso. I popped into the massive Zara store. How could I not J Could have bought loads. Everything there I would buy and wear. European Zara is excellent! But wait - I'm on a shopping diet so walked away. I'm still proud of myself of having so much self control. Ladies you know what I'm saying
Walked through Galleria Alberto Sordi. Another example of stunning architecture. I saw a café in the centre of the Galleria doing apperitivo and decided to come back the next day.
I went to Il Leoncino on Via Leoncino based on Elizabeth Minchilli's Rome app. I had mixed feelings about this place. Grumpy waiter but pizza was nice. I had the margherita pizza. Soft drink plus pizza for 11E.
Back to hotel for complementary spritz on rooftop before bed at 10pm.
Here's a link to my blog post with photos
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Looking forward to Italy! Apparently the Clooney thing didn't work out for you since he's engaged to another...hope that didn't spoil the trip!
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Great start to what seems to be an interesting report.
I too understand the Clooney obsession and I would definitely be considered a cougar.
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Wonderful report so far, looking forward for more.
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Oh, I am going to enjoy following your journey, ozgirl07! We've stayed twice at the Césari and couldn't agree more about its great location! I imagine you walked by the Pantheon many times during your visit in Rome. This city inspires wonder & awe, doesn't it?
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Great start to your trip report, looking forward to more!
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Thank you for reading! Here is the next instalment
11 June Rome – Food tour and Villa Borghese
I got up at 3am in the morning and it was no use telling myself that it too early. My body had not adjusted to the time change yet. I decided to read in bed for a bit and then try to sleep again. I had a tour at 10:30am in the morning and there was no rush. Fortunately, I was able to go back to sleep after reading for an hour or so and slept until a "normal" wake up time.
After a wonderful breakfast on the hotel rooftop I walked towards Piazza Farnese to meet my Gourmetaly tour.
So here's one of the tips I had read about and it made sense. One way to avoid putting on weight on holidays is by refraining from going crazy at the hotel breakfast. The hotel of course has a lot more on offer then what we normally eat at home.
I had booked the Small-Group Rome Food Walking Tour: Trastevere, Campo de' Fiori and Jewish Ghetto morning tour on Viator and it turned out to be the Food Crawl Rome Tour with Gourmetaly. I was a little bit early and so I walked around the market in Campo di Fiori. The fresh food was just so colourful and beautifully displayed. But note you are not allowed to touch anything. If you want to buy something, point towards the item and ask the stall owner to measure it out for you.
I found tour leader Francesca at the appointed meeting point and we were off. It was a small group of 6 plus Francesca. First a walk around Campo di Fiori followed by Buffalo Mozzarella tasting. This was proper freshly made in the morning Buffalo Mozzarella. OMG! So delicious! The best I've ever tasted. Apparently you are not meant to refrigerate mozzarella. It should be eaten fresh and so lasts only up to 3 days. They also served us some Pecorino Romano cheese with green olives for me. Yummm….
We then walked to Forno Roscioli and tasted some Pizza Bianca. We went on to the Jewish Ghetto for suppli (ball of rice with tomato sauce similar to aranchini) and mozzarella stuffed deep fried zucchini flowers. From here we walked to Trastevere for some Roman style pasta. Then to a small artisanal gelato shop for some delish gelato.
Along the way Francesca gave a little history about what we were seeing and the food we were eating. It was a perfect combination of history and anecdotes. She was obviously passionate about Rome and food. I would recommend this food tour to anyone.
After this tour I had booked an afternoon tour of the Villa Borghese on Viator. It turned out to be with City Wonders (Dark Rome). As the food tour had run sightly over and I needed to make my way from Trastevere to Villa Borghese in half an hour I took a taxi. The taxi driver had the meter running but when we go to Villa Borghese he quickly turned it off and asked for 15E. I had seen that the meter reading was at least 11E, so grumbling a bit I paid him 15E.
I met the City Wonders representative who assigned me to one of 2 groups. My tour leader was Rebecca who was so enthusiastic and knowledgeable. She had a real talent for telling the history of artwork as if she had been there when the deal was struck between Bernini and Cardinal Scipione Borghese.
The Galleria has an amazing collection of Bernina sculptures and Caravaggio paintings. The entry to this museum is timed so you have a time slot and limited time in the Galleria. So the advantage of the tour is that you see the main artwork efficiently in that time and don't miss out.
After the tour of the Galleria we walked with Rebecca through the gardens still listening to her lovely descriptive stories to a vantage point over the Piazza del Popolo. From here we had some stunning views of Rome. As I bid Rebecca and group farewell, I followed her instruction on how to walk back down the Spanish Steps. The fountain in front of the steps was under construction which was shame.
I did a bit of window shopping around Via Condotti. Along the way I saw Gucci, Dior, LV, Max Mara, Furla, Salvatore Farragamo, Bulgari, Burberry, Versace stores….
And then I went to Zara…..
I know I said I was on a shopping diet but the window shopping was just too much for me. I had to indulge a little and my budget did not extend to those other stores.
I bought a maxi skirt and a top that I love!
I was in the perfect spot to have an aperitivo at the Galleria. I was feeling so tired the I decided to bypass a Spitz for a non alcoholic cocktail. But I had the yummy snacks. The selection was extensive. They had mini quiches, pizzas, dips, salads, breads, etc. It was the perfect place to have a drink with the girls but I had none of my girls with me so it was a solo aperitivo. They had large proper plates that you could serve yourself from buffet. The service was prompt and professional. All this for 10E! And the people watching was for free!
I walked to the hotel and crashed early….
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Here is a link to my post and photos
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And the next day...
12 June Tuscany day trip from Rome
12 June Tuscany day trip from Rome
I had booked on Viator the Tuscany in One Day Sightseeing Tour from Rome. The meet up point was 7:15am at Piazza del Popolo for a 7:30am departure. So I left the hotel at 7am and walked to Piazza Del Popolo. I had a museli bar I had from home for breakfast but no coffee!! I was not human yet.
I met the City Wonders rep and was assigned to Guilia's group. We walked a short distance to the bus. Probably about 40 people on this tour. The bus ride to Montepulciano was about 2 hours. We stopped for a coffee and toilet break after an hour.
Ahhhh finally I was feeling the Tuscan sun. In Montepulciano we met our local guide who took us on a walking tour of the town. Montepulciano had Etruscan beginnings and is surrounded by beautiful vineyards. It served as a filming location for the Volterra scenes in the New Moon Twilight film.
From there we were driven towards Montelcino area and stopped at Sant' Antimo Abbey to hear the monks reciting Georgian chants.
We were then taken to a stunning Montelcino vineyard for wine tasting and lunch. We got to taste the famous Brunello di Montepulciano and also the vineyards own very fresh and fruity white wine which was my favourite. The lunch was really good too. I did not expect to be so impressed given that I am vegetarian but they set up a separate table for a few of us with special dietary requirements and I think we ate just as well as everyone else.
After lunch we had the opportunity to take some photos before being driven to Pienza. This is a quaint UNESCO World Heritage-listed town. Utterly charming with a few grocery/wine and artisan shops. This town was also quieter than Montepulciano. But everywhere is touristic. I think one might have to come in the off season or go to more off the beaten path towns to skip the hordes of tourists.
I went to one of the small coffee shops to have an afternoon macchiato. This part of Tuscany is so picturesque and many films like Under the Tuscan sun, Gladiator, The English Patient and Twilight
have been filmed in this region.
The tour had us back in Rome by 7pm. On my way down the Via del Corso I stopped off at for a look around in Sephora and Mac stores. I have to say that there were no bargains to be had. The prices were only a few dollars cheaper than Australia. I bought a couple of things. Once at the hotel, I freshened up and asked the hotel reception for a recommendation. I felt like having some Ravioli. They called a little place near the Trevi Fountain and booked a table for me. I strolled up towards the
Fountain but saw that it was closed! Oh no How will I come back to Rome if I don't throw in my coin!!
Ravioli with pear and Gorgonzola and a glass of Prosecco plus bread. 20E. The pasta was perfect. I had never had that combination.
Stroll back to the hotel and early night…..again….
Here's a link to my post and photos
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The restaurant near Trevi Fountain was Spiriti e Forme http://www.spiritieforme.it/
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Enjoying your report. I would now be interested in doing the Tuscany trip after reading about your visit.
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I am in the planning stages of a trip back to Italy so absolutely loving your report-we could be travel buddies for sure!
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Thank you for reading ! Planning a trip is half the fun. I did the most independent travel days on this then I've ever done and loved it!
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The Trevi Fountain was closed? How could that be? Well, hopefully you made it by on another day to toss in a coin & make a wish.
Glad you enjoyed your Tuscany tour. It truly is a lovely region, especially the area around Pienza. Nice photos!
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i heard a funny story about the coins thrown into the Trevi fountain, which for years were collected by the same man, who everyone assumed was employed by the city. it was only when he was sick and failed to turn up that it was realised that he had been lining his own pocket with the money!
loving your report - keep it coming!
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Wonderful combo of TR and blog, brava, Ozgirl07! I have a similar shot from Montepulciano.
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With all the work travel I do, I am still waiting to sit next to George on a flight but it has yet to happen.
We have just booked hotels for the AC and Rome in 2015---very excited for both, so reading with interest!
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Denise I managed to get my George fix on the plane by watching "The Monuments Men"
LOL @ Annhig
2010 there was construction fence around the fountain and it never came down. I walked past at least 3 times during my stay...
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13 June Rome sightseeing
Having had a few action packed days, the plan for today was to take a bit easier. So I lingered at breakfast. It was a clear sunny day and just perfect to sit around on the hotel terrace over a coffee.
After consulting the helpful hotel receptionist and telling him about my plans, he suggested catching the 160 Bus from Via del Corso to Aventine Hill. They sold the bus tickets at hotel so I bought 3 tickets and went to Via del Corso bus stop which was 2 mins walk away from the hotel. Did I mention the awesome location of the Albergo Cesari??
I got off at Via Della Greca near Aventine hill and walked up to the Piazza dei Cavallieri di Malta home to the headquarters of the Knights of Malta. Through the keyhole in the impressive door you get a peek a boo view of the dome of St Peter's. Totally worth tracking this little gem down. Next door in the church of Santa Sabina and a peaceful garden with the best views of Rome.
But first I had to find a loo and of course there was none around. No café or anything! I went to the seminary attached to the church and the helpful attendant there sneaked me in to use the office toilet. This is just one example of kindness of strangers.
Feeling much better I went to the garden and started chatting to a couple from South Africa. He had proposed the day before and they had come back to reminisce. Aww….
I took loads of photos for them and they even invited me to their wedding to be the wedding photographer
I then strolled down the hill and to the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. I may have mentioned seeing Roman Holiday on this forum and of course I had to see the Mouth of Truth. Unfortunately about a couple of hundred other tourists had the same idea! There was a long line. Nothing to do but get in line. After 30 mins I got my 2 mins in front of the manhole cover. I stuck my hand in and had someone take a quick snap followed by a visit of the church.
Time to use my second bus ticket. I caught Bus 81 to the Vatican museum. But before tackling the museum I had lunch at a little deli/café on Via Silla. It was called Caffetteria Ruberto. A local place. No tourists. For 5.60E I got 2 yummy paninis, 1 bottle water and a coffee. Seriously a bargain.
Then it was time to tackle the Vatican Museum. I had my timed ticket bought online and so had no wait in line for tickets or for entry. But as soon as I walked in I realised my mistake. Should have got the night ticket not afternoon ticket. It was CROWDED!! I had my notes from Ron in Rome so I saw the spiral staircase first.
Then went to Piñacoteca and saw the highlights. I wanted to use my Rick Steves audio guide for the Sistine Chapel but my Iphone was dying on me. Luckily I had my printed notes with me. Made my way to Sistine chapel via hundred thousand groups and tourists. The map gallery was amazing.
Unluckily it was too too crowded inside the Sistine chapel. Hard to reflect and observe with so many people pressing around you. But I managed to snag a seat along the wall and sat for a good few mins to take it all in.
To exit, I walked behind a tour group and out the side the door to St. Peter's Basilica. First on the agenda was the cupola. I took the lift but did not have the energy or knees to climb all the way up. Wow! The view of the inside of St Peter's was incredible.
Back down to the church but once again too many tourists, too busy, not an enjoyable experience. But I did find a couple of quiet spots and took it all in. This was THE church. I felt overwhelmed and so touched.
I managed to turn my phone on for a moment and contact with my friend who had just arrived in Rome. We had made plans to meet for a drink near the Vatican around 5:30pm. So I headed out to the Footlocker store which was the only landmark I remembered on Piazza del Risorgimento. We literally ran into each other!
We found a little café/bar in the street behind and we had some pear juice while my friend's husband had a Cuban mojito which I think was a bit strong I heard all about their trip so far and made plans to have dinner together the next day.
Feeling the heat I took Bus 81 back to Via del Corso. For those staying around the Vatican, Via Cola di Rienzo has awesome shopping. I even had a hot tip about an outlet there called Gente but I was just too tired to track it down.
At the hotel I had a short rest before heading out for dinner around 8pm.
I chose Pietro al Pantheon from the TA app. It was a restaurant near the Pantheon on Via dei Pastini. This street has many restaurant but this seemed to be the only one that was turning people away. I tentatively approached the waiter at the door and asked for a table for one. He effusively welcomed me in and set me up facing the front on small table. I asked what he would recommend for a vegetarian and he said that zucchini flowers was in season so I should have the pasta with zucchini flowers. I took the recommendation along with a white wine suggestion. Pasta, bread, glass of white 15E.
Walk back via Giolotti….
Here is the link to my post and photos
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14 June Rome laundry day
Started the day slowly as I had blisters on my feet I made good use of my Compeed bandages.
Note: - IMO you can't use normal band aid on blisters. You need second skin bandages like Compeed. These are the only things that work effectively.
Today was laundry day.
Note: - I obsessively read travel blogs and went through Pinterest about packing efficiently, travel capsule wardrobes and packing cubes. A really good website is http://travelfashiongirl.com/
I coordinated all my outfits before I left and had multiple options. But I had to do laundry every 6 days or so because of the heat. The hotel recommended a Wash & Dry near Via del Tritone, Piazza Barberini. It was a decent place. Wash and dry plus soap cost 9E. While waiting for clothes to dry, I quickly popped out to get money from an ATM in Piazza Barberini.
I went back to the hotel to drop off clean laundry and got directions to Basilica of San Clemente.
But first I wanted lunch and coffee. I went to Tazza D'oro and had a coffee granita. Yummy! The cream was too much for me I managed to eat the icy coffee slush. From there I walked towards Campo Di Fiori and went into Il Fornaio off Corso Vittorio Emmanuel. Had a slice of veggie pizza and Coke Zero for 3.70E.
Finally caught Bus 87 to Basilica of San Clemente. The traffic was bad as something was on at Piazza Venezia, so the bus was diverted up Via Nazionale and back down Via Cavour before getting to. Via Labicana around 2:30pm. By the time I took photos of the Colosseum and walked to the church it was another 15 mins. The church was closed for lunch until 3pm so I waited with a bunch of other visitors.
There are 3 tiers to this complex. Each level down is older than the one before, dating back 2000 years. Fascinating but a bit creepy and smelly. Headed back up to the courtyard and had a little quite time. Used the loo there and walked back towards the Colosseum. More photos and then Bus 85 back to Via del Corso.
At this point it was starting to rain properly and the blisters were really sore, so I went back to the hotel for a rest.
At around 6pm I got a call from my friend that they were in the area. We met up and walked to the Pantheon stopping at Tazza D'oro for coffee. From the Pantheon we went to Piazza Navona, stopping in some little shops. We went back to the little shop that had Limoncello tastings and my friend and her husband bought some very nice Limoncello to take home.
We decided to find a restaurant my friend had had seen on TA that was nearby - Al Duello. It was a lovely restaurant and we had a very nice meal. We all had pasta and the house red and white wine with some homemade bread. Total bill was 58E. I had the pasta with zucchini flowers and lemon. Loved it. We all thought the pasta was a bit salty, good thing I like my food salty Both the red and white wine was really good. The restaurant called a taxi for them and I walked back to the hotel. It was so nice to have good company for dinner. The restaurant kindly called a taxi for my friends as they were staying near the Vatican. And I slowly strolled back to my hotel.
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Here is the link to my post and photos
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Titally understand the Pinterest addiction....I am always saving packing tips to one of my boards. I can't stop.
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With what were the zucchini flowers stuffed, please. Enjoying this very much.
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>>> ... as I gazed up at the oculus I thought that we may have made progress in terms of technology but maybe lost something along the way. <<<
The Pantheon - and in many ways, Rome itself - also gives me this feeling.
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TD - when i have had fiori fritti they have been stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy. I tried doing it at home but it was not terribly successful.
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Ozgirl107, really enjoying your TR and photos! Thanks or sharing. Makes us eager for a return to Rome.
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I'm really enjoying this, it brings back wonderful memories. Thanks for sharing.
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Great report and photos on your blog! Wish I knew about Compeed before this - will pack it for my next visit. This past April I had some serious blisters from pounding the Rome cobbles and need to make use of their bus system. Also, must take the time for some gelato! Not until my last day in Italy on Lake Como did I realize I hadn't had any yet ... horrors!
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I had to buy some of these blisters when we were in Valencia where they cost about €8 for a pack of 5. In our local chemist they were about £3 ie 50% of the price in europe. if you're planning of doing a lot of walking or are prone to blisters and think you might need them, I suggest stocking up at home.
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15 June Cinque Terre
It was bucketing down rain this morning. The heat wave in Rome had broken. Luckily I was leaving the rain behind
I had the hotel reception call a taxi for me to Termini. From Via del Corso to Termini 12E.
I had booked online tickets on the Intercity train at 9:57am to La Spezia. In Termini I easily found train board and waited for information to come up. The platform number is displayed 20 mins before train departure. My ticket was 1st class and I had read instructions on www.seat61.com. Find the coach number and get on without letting the "helpers" take your bag. I should have bought ticket to Riomaggiore for connection at Termini because this caused me a bit of hassle later. I stored my bag under the table between seats.
An American couple got on part way and were allocated seats with me but were kind enough to find other seats. They had 4 suitcases and needed a lot of room Fortunately the coach was not even half full.
I got off at La Spezia, ran to the connection train but missed it because I didn't have a ticket. Next train was in half hour so I bought a ticket from La Spezia to Riomaggiore for 2.10E.
This was a Regional train and very smelly. In Riomaggiore, want to info office next to the train station and asked about the bus. I had 30 mins wait in town but it was a very steep climb to the Hotel Villa Argentina so decided to wait. Bus fare was 2E.
Hotel Villa Argentina was nice enough. Basic but clean. Room had an amazing view. I was joining GAdventures Cinque Terre coastal walk tour. http://www.gadventures.com.au/trips/cinque-terre-coastal-walk/EICW/2014/ Group meeting at 6:30 so decide to rest until then.
At the meeting I met 4 other tour members and tour guide Mario. Everyone was very nice. My roommate cancelled and so I got the room to myself. Yay!
After intros and general information sharing we all went to dinner together to Il Grotta in town.
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Really enjoyed your trip report and the links to your blog and photos.
Did you ever find out what was going on with the Trevi Fountain?
Thanks for the tip about Compeed for blister relief. I'll have to check into that as I'm planning my 2015 trip and am sure to be walking a lot! Is that a brand exclusive to Australia or can I find it here in the US?
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Re Compeed - I'm sure you can get it in the UK and US
The Trevi fountain restoration is supposed to go on for a year and half!
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16 June - We went for our walk from Vernazza to Monterosso. First we took the Cinque Terre train from Riomaggiore to Vernazza. We walked around town. It felt very touristy and packed. Thanks Rick Steves
We started our walk! Most of the coastal walks were closed. This was one of the few open. At points the path was very narrow and a lot of people were walking. We even met a 90 year old German woman walking!
Took us a couple of hours to walk to Monterosso with lots of photo stops. The part of Monterosso after the path is very nice. I think this is the old town. We walked around that area first before going back towards the beginning of the path to find Il Casello for lunch. Lunch was very nice and the view priceless. I had Caprese salad and Trofie al Pesto. 23E
We then walked over to the other side of town. This is where the only sandy beach in CT is. The water was tempting! But we decided to keep exploring and took the train to Cornelia. Walked up the steep flight of stairs from the train station to the town. Probably the quietest town of the 5. Less touristy but also less cafés and amenities.
Then we took the train back to Riomaggiore and to the hotel to change. It was time for a swim on the rocky beach in Riomaggiore. The water was cold but refreshing. The sea was so calm. Like a lake. Our guide Mario was into rock diving and demonstrated from one of the rocks. Adrenalin junkie! After our swim we walked back to town for a quick bite ata pizza place, standing dinner.
17 June – Today was our big walk to Portovenere. We were soft and took the bus to Telegrafo. The beginning of the walk from Telegrafo was very pleasant through woods. But most of it was treacherous over rocky cliffs and a lot of up and down hill. But the scenery was just breathtaking!! Had a picnic lunch on the way sitting on cliff tops. This is the memory I will have with me forever.
We finally made it to Portovenere after 4 hours. It is a gorgeous little town. Loads of Italian (I think) holiday makers.
We took a short break in one on of the town squares, sitting under a tree catching our breath. Before long Mario was telling us about a "beach" nearby. It was more of a rocky cove and deep sea. Mario once again dived off a rock, this time it must have been at least equivalent to a 3 story building! Mama Mia!! We had a paddle around the rocks but I wasn't game enough to venture further into the sea.
We caught the ferry back to Riomaggiore. After a short rest and shower we decided to dress up and go to Manarola for dinner on the train. We went to the Aristide restaurant. Very nice meal and service under a pergola in the town square. I had spinach ravioli and strawberry tart plus house white. Yum! Manarola is one of the nicest towns. I'd stay here if I came back to CT.
18 June - Even though it was a tour free day meaning Mario had a break from us, we decided to stick together and go to Portofino.
We were all getting along so well. I am so glad that I did this tour and met these lovely women and of course the daredevil Mario
Firstly we took the train to Santa Margherita Ligure. Then the bus from the car park outside the train station to Portofino. The train ride took over 1 hour and the bus ride about 15 minutes. I used the Rick Steves Italy guide book to direct us.
Bus ride went via gorgeous scenery along the coast. There are some nice beaches along the way. We saw a very nice sandy public beach.
Portofino is a very posh town. Gucci, Prada, LV, Dior stores. Very picturesque. We walked up to Brown Castle for the stunning view. Got some of the best photos of the trip. I think I will be framing one the shots I took from this vantage point.
Back down for an overpriced lunch in front of water. The
service at this restaurant was bad. We should have walked back through town. I had Pesto pizza. It was tasty but very oily.
I had the best gelato of the trip at Calata 32 Gelateria. I had hazelnut chocolate and mint. The mint gelato was all white, no fake green colouring in this gelato. Apparently gelato in metal containers with the lids on is the real deal. Not the colourful mounds you see in the glass windows.
We were back on bus to Santa Margherita Ligure. We got off near the board walk and sat around for a bit before walking to train station. Walking through town I saw that this was a busy place and there were loads of shops and cafes.
Back in Riomaggiore, we had a rest before going back to Manarola for dinner at same restaurant. Service was a bit different tonight. I had grilled veggies, pesto gnocchi and panna cotta. Of course the delicious house white. We saw the sunset in Manarola. Ahhh the perfect end to my Cinque Terre sojourn….
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Here is my Cinque Terre blog post and photos
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Thanks TDudette. I forgot to mention that the stuffing in the zucchini flowers was just mozzarella for me. They were dipped in batter and deep fried.... Oh the calories in that dish....
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Really loving your report and the magnificent pictures. What camera are you using if you don't mind my question.
I'm looking to buy something for myself that takes decent pictures at night.
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More nice shots. I tried to do it with ricotta and spices but the flowers split a bit. Sigh. You certainly walked off the calories, Ozgirl07!
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Chris I used a Panasonic TZ 20 and my iPhone 5s. The iPhone took really gd night photos.
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Now I really want to go to the Cinque Terre! More lovely photos!
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The traditional stuffing for zucchini flowers is a bit of mozzarella and a bit of anchovy, just a small amount of each. There are also lots of regional variations for the stuffing. A lot of people prefer them unstuffed.
There are two kinds of batter you can use: a simple one of flour and water, and another that's essentially a thin pancake batter. They shouldn't be heavily coated. They have to be deep fried in very hot oil to be crispy.
Only the male flowers are fried. It's easy to differentiate them, because the female flowers have very short stems and already have a tiny zucchini at the stem end, which withers if they don't get fertilized. You have to wash the flowers, delicately, and leave them to dry on a cloth. Remove the pistil of the flower before dipping it in the batter. You can either dig in there with a long sharp tool (or your pinkie finger), or you can remove it from the outside by digging off the stem end, when the pistil should come out with it. However, if you plan to stuff them, I think the mozzarella would leak out the hole. If they're stuffed, you have to twist the petal ends to keep the stuffing inside.
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If they're stuffed, you have to twist the petal ends to keep the stuffing inside.>>
well, I got the method right, anyway. i think the petals untwisted themselves!
Enjoying your TR very much, Ozgirl.
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Thanks for sharing the recipe bvlenci. When can we have some
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19 June Riomaggiore to Florence
After 5 days in CT it was time to move on. Next on the itinerary was Florence for 3 days.
Another tour member was travelling to Pisa so I had company on the train this time. We caught 2 regional trains to get to Pisa than another train change to Florence. The first part of the lag went so fast because I was chatting with my new friend but the second lag took forever.
Got into Santa Maria Novella train station at 11:30am. It was so busy! I had instructions on how to get to the B&B I was staying at. But dragging my suitcase over cobblestones and through hordes of tourists was a nightmare. Half way to the B&B I realized that my backpack zip was open! Someone had tried to get in! I hadn't put my wallet in my backpack but I did have my camera and Ipad. Luckily nothing was missing. Phew…
I did notice the shopping in Florence looked really good
I stayed at the Residenza Della Signoria http://www.residenzadellasignoria.com/. The location was awesome – just behind Orsanmichele Church! The check in was smooth with Stefan, the host, explaining everything to me. He offered to drop off my laundry for washing and drying for 8E. The room was spacious and very nice. The bathroom was the biggest I had on this trip. This was basically a large apartment with 6 large ensuite bedrooms in a characterful building. I had an access code to get in so very safe.
Note: At this particular B&B the staff left around 6/7 pm. Then the guests were on their own. I did not see any one else in the apartment that first day. That was kind of creepy. Might be an issue if you are solo. I knew that all the other rooms were booked. Fortunately I met a couple staying at the apartment for breakfast next day and another couple in the room next to mine later the next evening. I felt a lot better after that.
I had a text from my friend travelling to Tuscany for a wedding. They would be in Florence in time for lunch. We made plans to meet at Eataly http://www.eataly.it/blog/negozi-italia-firenze/ for lunch. I loved this store/restaurant! They sold all Italian food things. There was a lovely terrace restaurant but it was too hot to sit outside. The food was good. I had cold soup gazpacho and my friend had pizza with buffalo mozarella. Yum! After our catch up and news sharing, my friend and I said good bye.
I went to the Accademia Galleria to see statue of David. I had my ticket from their online website and collected my entry ticket from ticket office across the road. I went to the reserved line and had no wait. Someone had told me to use the exit door to enter to avoid the crowds getting into the Gallery and that's what I did. I used the Rick Steves' audio guide.
The statue of David is incredible. At a little over 5 metres it is majestic in its beauty. Another famous work by Michelangelo in the Galleria is the group of four unfinished marble statues of slaves or prisoners. It's a small museum so I was finished in an hour.
There is a very impressive bookshop across the road from the gallery. They have many books about renaissance art and artists. If you are looking for an impressive coffee table book then this is the place to go.
By this stage I was desperate for a coffee so as I wandered through some of the smaller streets around the Galleria I came across a cute little café and had a macchiato. This café had the most amazing looking biscuits so of course I had to try some.
I walked back towards the B&B and went by the Duomo. It had closed at 4pm but I managed to take some outside photos.
Back to my room for a quick refresh and then out to dinner next door. I was staying right next to the Cantinetta dei Verrazzano and it was a wonderful! I had dinner, lunch, and breakfast here because it was so good! It looks like a bakery from outside but there's a little café/restaurant inside. That evening I had a cecina chickpea pancake and a cocktail. 12.50E.
I started the Rick Steves audio walking tour of Florence, going to Piazza della Signoria and Piazza della Republica. There was a swing dancing demonstration Piazza della Signoria and DJ's playing music in streets. A special exhibition/function was on in Palazzo Vecchio which stays open until mid night. A carousel set up in Piazza della Republica. Firenze was partying!
I also saw the boar at the New Market gave its snout a rub.
Finished off the night with a gelato at Perche No http://www.percheno.firenze.it/index.php?lang=en I had 3 flavors- rose, almond and tiramisu. In heaven….
Reflection on Florence – I love Florence! If I was to choose a city in Italy to live, this would be it. The food and shopping was amazing. Everything was more compact then Rome. There has history and cultural but at the same time the city felt relaxed and ready to party. My kind of place….
Here is a link to my blog post and photos
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The David does look amazing. I loved the boar photo..I always like the kind of thing for one reason....but maybe that gelato wins for the best looking thing that day!
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As a matter of fact, I made fiori di zucca (unstuffed) a few days ago, but with squash flowers, not zucchini flowers. "Zucca" actually means squash, but the dish is usually made with zucchini flowers. Zucchini means "little squash". At this time of year, you can buy the small plants with the flowers attached to them. That would be the female flowers, of course, but I suppose you could use also those.
I've never made them stuffed, and never seen them served stuffed around here (in Le Marche). It has occurred to me that it would be hard to keep the flowers from untwisting.
I've seen recipes for a baked, rather than deep fried, version, and I was thinking of trying that next time. Our squashes are producing more flowers than fruit!
I love where I live, but if I had to choose a different place to live in Italy, Rome would win over Florence. Ferrara would probably be high on my list as well.
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Your report has brought back wonderful memories of our trip to Italy this past May. We didn't have time for the Cinque Terre and your photos have made me sorry that we missed it. Another reason for a return trip to Italy! How sad that the Trevi fountain was closed. Going there was one of my favorite experiences in Rome. So many things were being renovated during our trip, including the Duomo Museum and the Baptistery in Florence. Parts of St Marks's Basilica in Venice were covered up for renovation as well. I look forward to reading the rest of your report and hope to get mine written soon!
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David and Duomo astounding. Really enjoying this TR! Thanks also, bvlenci, for further zucca info. I'll just have to come to Italy in the spring!
DH and I traveled to Italy several times and could never decide what city/town we loved the most or we might have tried to buy something. There's something about Italy.
I have a before and after shot of the 1999 cleaning of the Florence Duomo in anticipation of the year 2000 celebrations!
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I literally fell in love with David.
So enjoying this trip report as it brings back great memories. It's been too long.
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this is a great report! many thanks. I now know I have been away from Fodor's for too long. I needed this TR fix!
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Wonderful report and I've taken down some ideas for my Florence/Rome trip in Oct/Nov with my daughter. She also eats no flesh (cheese & eggs are OK)so I've noted Caffetteria Ruberto and Pietro al Pantheon for a couple of reasonably priced meals. She's a chef and foodie so we always spend way too much on restaurant meals...we're on a budget this year Thanks for taking the time to write and post !
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I'm sorry I didn't post yesterday but I've been busy at work. I promise to post twice today.
20 June Florence day tip to Siena and San Gimignano
I had booked the Tuscany in One Day Tour on Viator for the day. This turned out to be with Walkabout Florence. The meet up point was at 8:30am in front of Santa Maria Novella station. The hotel had made arrangements for breakfast at the Cantinetta dei Verrazzano for a discounted price but it was not open at 8am. So I had a very nice cornetto and cappuccino to eat along the way at the first open café.
Met up with the tour leader Elisa and we were on a coach to Siena. There were probably 35-40 of us on this tour.
In Siena we were given a guided tour of the town including a tour of the Siena Duomo. This church had the most incredible marble floors and frescoes. The marble floors were actually inlaid marble panels depicting various biblical stories. We also saw some artwork by Donatello and Michelangelo. We saw a relic of St John the Baptist, what is believed to his hand.
We were then given a little to explore on our won. There were 3 solos (a girl from NZ and a guy from the US) on this tour including me and of course we bounded over our solo status
Siena is a splendid medieval town and at its heart is the Il Campo famous for the Palio horse races. Some may remember the scenes from James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace.
After Siena we were taken to a Chianti vineyard and given a tour of their cellars. Then it was time for lunch in their restaurant. The food was once again outstanding. They produced their own olive oil and honey in addition to the wines. OMG their honey was out of this world! I could have just had honey with bread and wine to wash it down
Feeling happy and full after lunch we got on the bus for the short drive to San Gimignano.
San Gimignano is a UNESCO world heritage site and is chocolate box pretty. We climbed up to the castle and took photos of the towers. Gelateria Dondoli has the distinction of being a world champion and has many unusual flavours on offer like Rosemary, Lavender and Gorgonzola cheese. I had to try the lavender and berries flavours. But my eyes were bigger than my stomach and I couldn't finish my gelato cup….Mama Mia!
Final stop of the day was Pisa. I had been to Pisa on a previous trip but took the mandatory holding the leaning tower photo. Then found a café across the road to take a break and have a milkshake/frappe in a leaning glass in front of the Leaning tower of Pisa.
Back to Florence by 7pm to find my laundry done and waiting for me. Elisa had kindly offered advice about dinning and shopping options but I was too tired after the day to venture out. I went down to have a gelato at Perch No and called it a night. Yes I had 2 gelatos and a frappe in one day!!
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Here is a link to my blog post with photos
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21 June Florence Sightseeing and Shopping
I woke up eager to start my day of sightseeing and shopping! I was officially half way through my trip and was going to allow myself some retail therapy J
But first breakfast at Cantinetta dei Verrazzano . The hotel had organized a discount price for breakfast which consisted of a sweet pastry, a basket of breads and rolls, coffee and fresh orange juice. This café is actually a bakery too and their pastries and breads are to die for!
I started by going to the Duomo. As I took my camera out to start snapping pics, I realised I had forgotten the battery in the recharger back at the hotel. So I went back to hotel which was only 5-10 mins away. Unfortunately by the time I got back, the line to enter the Duomo went around the block.
I thought I'd come back later in the afternoon before closing time.
On my way to the San Lorenzo Central Market, I went to the Gucci shop because it was right there. I saw a gorgeous bag and wallet. It was tempting but decided to go to the market to check out the leather goods first.
I love visiting markets in cities I visit. I enjoyed walking around the Mercato Centrale and seeing all the local produce. I tasted some truffle dips and oil.
Then I made my way outside to the leather market. There was so much variety but I found it expensive. I didn't do any shopping and went back to Gucci. I had convinced myself that I'd rather pay a "bit" extra and get the Gucci handbag and wallet.
Note: Gucci is a Florentine brand and the handbags and wallets are made in Tuscany with Tuscan leather.
I went back to the hotel to drop off my purchases and got lunch at the Cantinetta dei Verrazzano. Yum!!
Next was the Uffizzi Gallery Museum. It was crowded but I went in with my timed ticket bought online. Once again used the exit door to enter and bypassed both the ticket and entry lines. I used Rick Steves' audio tour. This Museum is a must visit for Renaissance art fans. I was amazed by the paintings and sculptures. Titian and Botticelli in particular were dazzling. From the second floor corridor of the Uffizi Gallery you can see the Ponte Vecchio. Ideal place to grab a seat and take it all in.
Exiting the museum I found myself hungry, so found a sandwich place recommended on Elizabeth Minchilli's Florence app. 'Ino – It was expensive and average. I was comparing them to Cantinetta dei Verrazzano and finding them lacking. The service wasn't so good either. I was there at closing time so perhaps they were eager to see me off.
Ok time to work off that Panini – I walked to Ponte Vecchio. If you are looking for expensive gold jewellery, you will love the shops. Years ago, on my first trip to Italy, I had bought a gold puzzle ring from one of the stores. I still wear it. I saw a necklace I loved but the budget had blown out after the morning shopping... so I walked over to the other side of the Arno and around the touristic shops.
Decided not to waste time and started the hot and sweaty climb to Piazzale Michelangelo. Finally made it there. I felt like I had taken a sweat bath – I know TMI.
There were a lot of tourists and wedding photographs being taken. No shade at all. I quickly snapped a few pics and went back down the stairs to find shade.
On my way down I saw Il Gelato di Filo and had a yummy gelato. I think I deserved the treat after sweating up the hill.
It was late afternoon so I went to the hotel for a short rest and a shower. After my cool shower, I changed and set out to dinner. I was going to go to a restaurant recommended by a friend but saw that it was full of tour bus customers. Decided that if I was going to be a tourist I might as well sit in Piazza della Signoria. So that's where I went. I had an aperitif at Cafe Riviore and then was too tired to find anywhere else for dinner. So I had the vegetable Risotto for dinner. The aperitif was great but risotto average.
While sitting at Café Riviore I saw a marathon being run around the city and a big band was playing in the loggia. There was ample entertainment to keep me there for a couple of hours.
Back to hotel for final packing.
Here is a link to my blog post and phoos
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You stayed in one of my favourite small cities. I love Florence for the same reasons you do: the history, culture, the relaxed atmosphere, walkability, the food and the shopping! Well, there goes your 'shopping diet' but glad you got the purse you wanted! I am never quite sure about items sold in a market - quality, authenticity, etc.
Nice that you got to see a bit of Tuscany. San Gimignano is chocolate box pretty. At night when it's quiet & peaceful, it takes on a magical quality. We had the good fortune to stay there.
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Continued bravas, Ozgirl07. Your bus tour sounded good. Did you get a tour of Pisa's Duomo also? It's often overlooked because of the tower.
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22 June Florence to Naples
At 9am Sunday morning nothing was open for breakfast so I headed to train station for 10am train to Naples. I asked the hotel to call me a taxi as I didn't fancy dragging my bag to train station.
The train station was busy! Grabbed a quick bite from a cafe in the station. Found my train and corresponding coach number. I had a Business Class seat on the Frecciarossa. Very nice. Quickly made it in and stashed my luggage in the rack at the end of carriage. The train stopped at Roma Tiburtina and Termini. So whenever I saw the station coming up, I went and stood near the luggage rack just to be sure that someone wasn't taking off with my bag. The train staff served a soft drink and sweet/savoury snack.
Three hours later I was in Naples. I had instructions about going to the taxi stand and asking for the conventional rate. The meter started at 7.50E. I paid 11E for the trip to Hotel Correra 241 just off Via Toledo, not far from the National Archaeological Museum.
On my way to the hotel I noticed everything (shops) was closed. The hotel which looked shocking from the outside but was really nice inside. Modern clean rooms, quick and friendly service. They even found an iron for me
This hotel was the joining point of my second tour with GAdventures called Local Living Sorrento. http://www.gadventures.com.au/trips/local-living-italy-sorrento/EISO/2014/ We were to spend one night in Naples followed by 5 nights outside Sorrento on a lemon farm.
I rested for a few minutes and met my roommate. She had come from the US and needed to rest. I thought I'd nap but then decided to venture out down Via Toledo. It was after 4:30pm and some of the shops were opening. People were starting to come out for Passeggiata. Most people were dressed up and the ladies were fully made up. Quite a few shops had opened so I did a bit of window shopping and people watching.
We had our first group catch up at 6pm where we met our lovely tour manager Roberta. There were 9 of us on tour. My room mate was travelling with her sister and daughter. The age group varied from 19 to 65. Once again the group seemed to get along well. After intros and information about the next few days from Roberta, we all went for a group dinner. Dinner was pizza at a restaurant near Spaccanapoli. It really was one of the best pizzas I had ever had.
We walked through the old town on our way back to the and of course had have a gelato.
Reflection on Naples – This is a "real" city. The humble beginnings of this city are obvious in its gritty streets. But saying that people seemed friendly and smiled more. There was an energy that was unique.
Here is a link to my blog post and photos
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Love this, ozgirl - thank you so much for continuing.
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Yes, I'm enjoying it too.
how did you find sharing with a stranger? I'm afraid I've got to the age where I wouldn't really like that so I'm interested to know how you got on.
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Annhig - I was reluctant to book this tour initially because I was told that I had to share. I was willing to pay the single supplement for my own room but the agriturismo we staying at only had 6 rooms available for the tour and they no longer had the option available.
My room mate was absolutely lovely and great company. She had a small snoring problem but luckily once we got to the agriturismo we had 2 separate sleeping areas. One room was huge with a large king bed plus a single bed. The other room was tiny with a tiny single bed. We flipped a coin and I got the big room for the first 2 nights and she got the room for the last 3 nights. Very democratic
I wouldn't voluntarily book share room in future but for this trip it was fine.
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23 June Naples, Pompeii and Agriturismo Il Giardino di Vigliano
We were supposed to go straight to Pompeii this morning but were told that due to strikes Pompeii was closed until noon.
So after a basic breakfast we went for a walk around Naples. We saw the water front area and my first view of Mt Versuvious, Piazza del Plebiscito, Galleria Umberto, Palazzo Napoli, Caste Nuovo, Spaccanapoli and Quartieri Spagnoli. This made me realise that there is a lot more to Naples then I had thought. It was actually spectacular!
We bought sandwiches, cheesy spinach pastries, cherries, soft drinks and sweet pastries from the stores we came across in the old town before returning to the hotel to have a picnic lunch in the hotel terrace.
The tour group had a slit by this stage. 7 of us were keen on enjoying and trying everything. Local food, transport and good old walking. The older couple decided not to join us for the walk. They were a bit worried that they would have to walk and a coach wasn't taking us around. They stayed at the hotel even though Roberto had suggested the National Archaeological Museum or the tour of the catacombs. This set the tone for the rest of the tour.
After lunch we dragged our suitcases to the minibus hired by the tour manager to take us to Pompeii.
It was a hot day and got hotter in the afternoon. We met our tour guide outside the ruins in Pompeii at 1pm for our included tour. Ancient Pompeii is a fascinating look at the fragility of life. Time has literally just stopped in a freeze frame here. It was also evident that this was a sophisticated and affluent community of the time. The plumbing and water walls alone show the engineering feat of the ancient times. And we think we are so clever building skyscrapers and all
I strongly suggest a guide so you can understand what you are seeing and see all the highlights in the vast area.
We had a well-deserved break after our tour with a refreshing lemon granita.
Then we were back on the minibus to the Agriturismo Il Giardino di Vigliano our home for 5 nights. http://www.vigliano.org/en/index.php
Located just outside Sorrento near the town of Massa Lubrense our agriturismo was a small family run lemon farm. It was an old lighthouse and farmhouse combined. I have no idea what heaven on earth would look like but this would have to come pretty close. The views from our room took my breath away!
Just coming to this place made taking the tour worthwhile. We were treated like visiting family and treated to amazing 4 course dinners every night. The lady of the house cooked with produce from the farm – from the milk, eggs and meat, fresh fruit and veg to olive oil, limoncello, jams and butter – all made there.
Ahhhhh….. the Amalfi dream was coming true.
We were shown to our rooms and after freshening up we met up for dinner. After a couple of hours of engaging company and conversation I went to bed with Pharrell's Happy song in my head
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Here is a link to my blog post and photos
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24 June Path of The Gods and Positano
Waking up in the agriturismo after sleeping to the music of the sea was incredible.
We started the day with a delish breakfast. Fresh bread, butter, jams and Italian breakfast cake washed down with coffee made with fresh milk and fruit juice.
We started early for the Path of the Gods. Roberta had organised for a minibus to take us to the town of Bomerano where we started our walk. We were in Positano in time for lunch.
The walk is slightly challenging. Our older couple complained all the way There's a lot of up and down but not as bad as the Riomaggiore to Portovenere track. The scenery along the way – I have no words. So it was more a stroll with lots of photo breaks than a hike.
In Positano, I was too hot for lunch so I grabbed a pastry from the bakery in town before going to the beach. I needed a break from complaints and broke off from the group. I had a gelato at the beach before walking around town going up to Via Cristoforo Columbo and the fancy hotels there before joining the group back in town.
Note: I had been so ruthless in my packing that I was running out of shampoo, body wash and deodorant! I looked for a mini mart or supermarket but only found a pharmacy selling toiletries. So I paid 20E for the essentials but at least I was clean
We were picked up in Positano by our minibus (Renato was our interesting driver) and taken back to the agriturismo by late afternoon.
I was so hot that when I heard Roberta and one of the tour members discussing walking to a local beach, I practically begged to go with them. We could see the sea so how far could it be right?? 2kms downhill. We walked to a local beach called Marina di Puolo. This is a hidden gem near Sorrento. There is a public beach where the water is actually sandy. This beach was the opposite of the Positano beach. Down to earth families having a break. There were no fancy overpriced restaurants here but what looked like good value fish cafes and a couple of bar. There was also a fancier paid beach area.
After cooling down in the water, sharing a glass of wine (beer for Roberta) and hearing Italy losing their chance at the World Cup Soccer, we realised we had to walked back 2kms! So we started our walk talking about hitch hiking in Australia and the interesting characters Roberta met while doing just that. I was thinking about Wolf Creek And then inspiration – why don't we hitch a ride back to the Main Rd! So we stuck our thumb out and had a nice couple drop us up the hill. Adventure? yes please!
We made it back in time for a quick shower before another fabulous dinner at 8pm.
Here is a link to my blog post and photos
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I'm really enjoying your trip report. You visited in such a different way than I did. It's interesting to hear about other travel experiences. The agritourismo in Massa Lubrense looks wonderful. I'll keep in mind for the future!
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Lovely reporting, ozgirl. I'd love to stay at the Agriturismo, too. Your Pompeii photos are fabulous.
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Wonderful wonderful! More please!
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Loving your report! And photos!!
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I also am continuing to enjoy your adventures.
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Great report and pics!
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I'm sorry I haven't been able to post this week but work has been crazy! But here is the next days update:-
25 June Farm tour, making pizza and Sorrento
After our "big" walk the day before, we were all happy to have a sleep and a late start to the day. We all lingered over breakfast oohing and aahing over the home made jams, fresh butter and bread.
I hand washed some clothes and hang to them dry on the separate terrace.
Then at 10am we were given a tour of the farm. We saw the grafted lemon trees. There were some trees that were almost 50 years old! There were some grated trees producing lemon and oranges out of one tree. Amazing! We saw all the farms animals – cows, hens, rabbits, pigs and horses – and the fruit and veg garden. It was good to see where the produce we were eating daily was coming from. If you haven't guessed yet – I am a city slicker
We were then given a Limoncello making demonstration. And of course a tasting
Then we all got to make our own wood oven pizzas. I made Margherita pizza. There was also lemon pizza, eggplant and zucchini pizza, sausage pizza, plain herb foccacia, and for desert we had a double decker Nutella pizza. Yum!
After lunch we all went to Sorrento on the local bus. At the bus station we bought our Amalfi all day bus tickets for the following day for 7E.
Then Roberta took us on a walking tour of Piazza Tasso, Marina Piccolo and the Old Town. Once again we had our normal split of 7 and 2. Seven of us went exploring with Roberta. The older couple found a café to have coffee and wait for us to come back.
Sorrento surprised me in that I was expecting a small town but it is in fact a small city. There were loads of shops, all facilities and amenities and a largish supermarket in town.
Having walked all over town we found a nice artisan gelato shop in the old town. This place was a marvel and I thought I had taken down the details but so disappointed can't find them. This was gelataria, cooking school and B&B combined. The gelato was amazing and the ladies serving us were just lovely, happy to chat with us and tell us about their operation. They had tables set up out in a little alley in front of the store where we sat and had our mega gelato.
If anyone knows the name of this place please let me know.
I popped into one of the shops and got some prosecco, chips and peanuts for a little pre dinner party for our last day.
Then it was back on the bus to the agriturismo on bus and another scrumptious dinner.
Here is a link to my blog post and photos
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Thank you for reading along guys. I'm hoping to post the next days activities tomorrow.
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What an amazing day that must have been! I love the whole agriturismo experience and hope to have s similar one myself one day. Just lovely!
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26 June Day trip to Ravello and Amalfi
I took the early bus to Sorrento with 2 other tour members. We wanted to get an early start so we would be in Amalfi by 10:30am. Roberta provided us with a bus timetable that was at best indicative.
We made it on the 8am bus to Amalfi and I managed to find a seat on right hand side of bus. All was going well. We had a few workmen who serenaded one of my friends She was quite good natured about it but I think everyone was relieved when they got of the bus. Then near Praiano the bus broke down. Most of us couldn't make out why but the driver stopped and got off the bus. After maybe 30 minutes we figured out that there was a bus on the way to pick us up.
Well it wasn't a bad spot to be stranded. We could see Praiano below us and the open sea. I even saw a pod of dolphins! The next bus came but it was already full. Yikes! There was a mad scramble to get on and being small and wily I managed to get on. But my 2 friends were standing by the road. I started saying "NO NO my friends my friends!!" to the bus driver. He pulled over and asked "how many?" I said 2 and he waved them on. The only thing was that we had the best view on the bus because we were almost sitting on the bus driver's lap! We were standing right in front of the bus or standing in the front stairwell.
So first the bus driver calls someone on his cell phone. I imagine he's calling his wife asking what's for dinner tonight, can we go to my mother's house and then proceeds to text on his cell – sorry mum we can't make it for dinner tonight
By the time we got to Amalfi it was past 11 am but we managed to get a bus to Ravello. Now this was a confusing exercise because there were no signs and no one to direct. We kind followed the crowd and asked anyone who looked local for direction. Once again everyone we spoke to was so nice and patient.
Once in Ravello we went looking for a store called Wine and Drugs. Sounds dodgy right?? But it was a Lonely Planet recommendation from one of the ladies' guide book. We ended up tasting 24 year old balsamic vinegar and some gorgeous local wines with cheese. The 2 ladies I was with decided to make purchases. We asked if the store would hold on to their purchases until we were ready to leave and they happily agreed.
We then took Rick Steves' recommendation and bought some paninis from a local deli. We then walked to Villa Cimbrone, found a quiet spot to enjoy the views, the garden and our lunch. It was starting to rain a little but we managed to find shelter under a tree and enjoy the atmosphere. The whole of the Amalfi Coast laid out before us!
The rain lasted for only 10 mins before we had the sun shining again.
Back in town we picked up the purchases from Wine and Drugs before finding an over priced café in the town square to enjoy a coffee. Have to do these things ya know.
We were allowed one trip on the Hop on Hop off Open bus with the day ticket, so we took a ride to Amalfi. This was actually really good fun.
In Amalfi we went to the beach and one of the ladies decided to have a dip in the water. The beach didn't look that good to me so I gave it a miss. Just wet my feet to cool off.
We walked around town and saw the Duomo di Amalfi from outside. I think none of us could face the walk up those stairs.
Around 5pm we caught the bus back to Sorrento. Unfortunately this was the long route bus and I felt sick after all the twists and turns. I'm telling you, I have a cast iron stomach. Not much unsettles me but this bus ride – Mama Mia!!
Initially we had to stand on the bus as all the seats were quickly taken but after a while we found seats. So basically if someone next to you gets up to leave, you take their seat right? Well this British lady threw a fit because she had supposedly gotten on the bus before us and should have first priority. We said sorry and kept sitting but this woman's poor husband coped an earful. I don't know if she actually expected him to physically evict us
Funnily enough we met up with the other group of 5 from our tour on the bus from Sorrento to our Agriturismo. They had had a sleep in and caught the mid morning bus to Amalfi. They didn't go to Ravello but had a chance to explore Amalfi.
We were all back in time for dinner at "home".
Reflection on Amalfi – I would have been disappointed with Amalfi had we not gone to Ravello. IMO that was the best bit. For the energetic, you can walk back from Ravello to Amalfi but you would have to cross the road multiple times going down hill.
Here is a link to the blog post and photos:-
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What a sad sign (in Villa Cimbrone?)
DH and I were quite disappointed that one couldn't just take one bus and go from Sorrento to Vietro! The regional busses were extremely regional.
Really enjoying this.
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Too bad you didn't make it in the Duomo and cloisters in Amalfi - it is quite spectacular. There are many beautiful treasures in Amalfi, but not all are readily apparent.
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ekc - I too am disappointed that I didn't make the effort to go in. Lesson learnt - try to do everything while you are there
27 June Day trip to Capri
We took a boat ride from Massa Lubrense to Capri. Roberta, the tour manager, had hired our own little boat and we were given an amazing tour around the island of Capri. Due to the high tide, we couldn't go into the blue grotto but our captain showed us the white and green grottos.
Absolutely amazing. This was a highlight of my whole Italian holiday. Most of us sat on the front deck of the boat and got the most stunning views as we sailed from Massa Lubrense to Capri. The wind in my hair and the spray from the sea as we flew across the water….. MIND-BLOWING!!
And this is where I had another adventure I never thought I would ever have. I'm a poor swimmer by any standards. Not scared of water but just have a tendency to sink Anyway, the captain pulled the boat into a quite cove and told us that we could swim here if we wanted. Most of the group jumped right in but I was reluctant. In the end I let everyone convince me to just do it! I used a life saver and jumped in. Oh my god! I was swimming in the middle of the sea!! So glad I did it even though I hung on to the boat for the most part. And this wasn't even on my bucket list.
The captain docked very quickly in Marina Grande. There was only one spot where the smaller boats could dock, people jumped off and the boat moved back in to the sea. He literally has 2 minutes get everyone off. Before we jumped off he handed us our packed sandwiches (panini with tomato, mozzarella and basil). We walked to marina and found some benches to have our sandwiches. Yum!! Don't know if it was the sea air or the swim but this sandwich tasted so good!
We saw the line to buy bus tickets to Capri was so long that we would have been standing there for an hour just for the ticket and then another hour for the bus. So we decided to walk. The older couple had decided to do their own thing and stay near the Marina.
We walked up hill for about 20 minutes to Capri town. I think we were all gasping and sweating buckets. But we got there a lot quicker than if we had waited around for the bus. I was saw a granita stand and had to have one. This was an expensive granita 5E!
Capri town is a very chocolate box pretty town. You can spend hours just walking around and window shopping. We saw some very nice luxury hotels. But we wanted to go on to Anacapri. Somehow I lost my group. It not such a big place that this could happen but there you go. So I caught the bus up to Anacapri. I thought I'd walk around Anacapri and try to find the group. But no luck. Anacapri is a lot calmer and has some really nice artisan ceramic shops. I wanted to go up to Mt Solero on the chair lift so I found the ticket office. The signs are a bit confusing but the chair lift ticket office is up some stairs from the square where the bus drops you off. Unfortunately I got stuck behind a large Japanese tour group.
Chair lift to Mt Solero return trip 10E. You get on the chairs one at a time.
OMG! The view – I have no words and will let the photos speak for themselves
Up on Mt Solero as I was ohhing and ahhing over the views when I ran into my group! Told you it wasn't that big
After a little rest in the café and some gelato we went back down to Anacapri. We had a good 45 mins before our meet up time with Roberta at 4:45pm but the buses were all full! There was a huge line waiting but going nowhere.
So after an hour and a panicked call to Roberta, decided we'd share the taxi fare 7 ways. One of the girls went to ask if the taxi would take 7 people and what the fare was. It was 25E. Hello why didn't we just take taxis from the Marina Grande?? Anyway we got in our fancy convertible taxi. There are 2 rows of back seats. And we had a relaxing scenic ride back to Marina Grande.
Then quickly got on "our boat" to Massa Lubrense. Back to the agriturismo on prearranged minibus transfer for our final dinner. But before our final dinner we had the Prosecco and snacks on the upstairs terrace watching the sunset…..
Here is a link to my blog and photos
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28 June To Milan via Naples
With much sadness and a few tears I waved my home for the last 5 days goodbye. We had our final group breakfast before getting on the private mini bus transfer to Naples train station.
We made really good time and were at Napoli Centrale by 10:30. We had been told to book any onward travel after 11am so I had booked myself on the high speed train Frecciarossa to Milan on Business Class. My roommate, her sister and niece were also on this train going to Rome but we were in different coaches. Another girl from the tour was on the 1pm train to Rome too.
Naples train station looked nice, new and clean. Since we were there so early and we could see the 11am train, we tried to get our tickets changed. We were told that because we had the special discount tickets, they could not change the time.
Roberta and her boyfriend managed to get tickets from the machine for the 11am train. They also helped the girl on the 1pm train change her ticket to the 12pm fast train.
Right - all tickets sorted, we thought we might as well have an early lunch. There was a decent cafeteria with loads of choices. But we also had a lots of bags between us
We found a big table and took turns in getting lunch.
While having lunch we were approached by some gypsies for money. First came a young man, then a young lady and then a woman with a child in her arms. We just shook our head and then ignored them and they went away. As we were leaving, we saw that they had taken over a corner of the cafeteria, where they were having Mcdonalds and generally carrying on as if they were on holidays!
Then it was on to the train. The platform was packed and I was in a mad rush so I could secure a spot for my bag on train. I waved my friends goodbye and quickly got on the correct car. Yes there were people trying to "help" and I had to practically wrestle my bag off a young lady. Once again being small and wily came in handy
This train was slightly different in that there was space between the seats to put your bag. I had read about this but didn't understand how that would work. Well check out the photo. Yes there is indeed a big space between seats.
The trains are also equipped electrical outlets to recharge your devices if you need. About 20 minutes after the train took off, the attendants came around offering a juice and snack. I wanted to go check out the restaurant car but wasn't game to leave my suitcase.
It was 4 hours 40 mins to Milan only stopping momentarily in Rome Tiburtina, Rome Termini, Florence and Bologna stations. Good thing I had movies and books on my iPad.
While on the train I got a text from my friend that she was on the train from Lausanne to Milan. We were getting into Milano Centrale within half an hour of each other so had plans to meet at the train station before going to the hotel together.
Milano Centrale is an architectural marvel. It is huge! Multi-level served by trains, buses, metro, taxis etc. And it is crowded! There are a lot of shops in the station and one can spend loads of time here. But I had heard/read so many pick pocketing stories that I wasn't even game enough to take photos.
I found a very nice café called Bistrot Milano Centrale http://www.milanocentrale.it/en/store/detail/bistrot-milano-centrale1 . Wow! this was a very nice train station café. Don't even get me started on the wooden tables and the mismatched stools. Love…
If you are in Milano Centrale, try to check it out. It was run in the typical Italian style in that you figure out what you want, then pay for it and take the receipt to the appropriate counter. They had a coffee bar, a drinks bar and different food counters.
I had a coffee while waiting for my friend before meeting her and taking a taxi to the hotel – Gran Duca di York. 10E
I had posted a question about where to stay in Milan on TA. I was thinking Ibis or Berna or NH President but then I got a PM recommending Gran Duca di York http://www.terrazzaaperol.it/en/home/. I hadn't even seen this hotel come up on my search but saw that they got really good reviews and it was in the Rick Steves book. Well if RS says it ok, it's ok
This was the nicest hotel of the trip in Italy. I could not believe that we got our rooms for 90E each. The mini bar in the room is free (stocked with non alcoholic drinks) which came in handy. And when I saw the shower - I think I shed a tear. I was here for 5 nights so I unpacked my suitcase and spread out my toiletries all over the bathroom because it was my room and I could. See the solo travel is spoiling me
I finally put on my skirt and top bought from Zara and did my full makeup to go out for dinner (yes I even put on eye shadow and mascara).
L had booked a table at Agnello Ristorante http://www.ristoranteagnello.it/ where she had been for a work dinner before. It was walking distance from the hotel. In fact everything was walking distance. We were less than 5 minutes' walk from the Duomo. And wow! It's a statement – you are in Milan. The square itself is pretty interesting but more on that later.
This was the most expensive restaurant of the trip. It was very nice and the service was outstanding. The food was pleasant. I had grilled vegetables for starter followed by Milanese Risotto and Tiramisu to finish. They also served complementary breads, olives, olive oil and dips. We had some Prosecco to start. My bill came to 45E.
After dinner we went to Terrazza Aperol http://www.terrazzaaperol.it/en/home/ and had a Spritz 8E. This is an uber cool cocktail bar with the terrace overlooking the Duomo and the sqaure. Well worth going to this one.
After finishing our drink we walked to Sforza Castel to watch the fountains before heading back to our lovely hotel for a wonderful night's sleep.
Here is a link to my blog and photos
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Very enjoyable. The next best thing to swimming in the sea is doing it in the nude!
Wonderful TR and shots!
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Loving your adventures.
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I am really enjoying your report and photos!
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We started the day off with a fabulous breakfast at the hotel. I tend not eat hot food or eggs for breakfast, so any hotel breakfast where I get coffee, cornetto, toast, cereal, fruit – I'm happy.
It was a drizzly day so we started by going to the Duomo and viewing the inside. I used Wikipedia and Rick Steves guide book to identify points of interest. This is a spectacular church. The leadlight windows are absolutely incredible.
Leaving the Duomo we saw that it was still raining so went to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Another architectural marvel.
Note: There must have been gremlins in my camera because I can't find any photos of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and La Scala exteriors. I'm positive I took quite a few.
We went in to La Rinascente to kill some time. L, who never does anything by halves, bought 2 Missoni scarves for 300E and a Chloe hand bag for 1000E. I like to think of myself as an enabler
Back to the hotel so L could pack up her new goodies and go to the train station to catch her train to Lausanne.
After waving L goodbye and feeling blessed for having such nice friends. I went to Via Dante for shopping. I went straight to the Geox store where the sale had already started and got 2 pairs of shoes. Then to OVS, which is the Italian version of H&M I think, where I bought some summery outfits. I popped into a café to buy a spinach and cheese twist pastry and went back hotel to drop off the bags.
After eating my pastry I headed over Via Torino and found chololate mecca! Hello chocoholics! http://www.cioccolatitaliani.it I had to have one of their fabulous gelatos. Once again I can't believe my photos are MIA.
After the gelato I was ready for more shopping and Zara was calling my name. So I hit the Zara store. Once again everything here I could have bought and would wear. I walked away with only one big bag. I also went to a store called Pull and Bear and bought a pair of crazy patterned harem pants.
Everyone was wearing these and I had to have a pair.
Ok so back to the hotel to drop off more bags. I asked the nice lady at the hotel reception for dinner suggestions. She suggested a stroll to the Brera area. This is the cool and hip area of Milan. Loads of boutiques, bars and restaurants. You will also find the Brera Gallery which I regret not having the time to visit. The walk there was very nice – going past La Scala and Brera Gallery. I only saw it from the outside but it looked very impressive.
I found a popular bar called Sans Egal for aperitivo. I picked it out of my TA app and it was very nice. I was early enough to get a table outside. The service was questionable but I managed to get my Spritz and helped myself to the buffet inside. There was a variety of food including a few different salads but once again the service wasn't great. For 9E I couldn't complain. I did do the unmentionable and went to the buffet twice J
Walking back to the hotel I came a across an Amorino outlet and had to buy a pistachio macaroon.
Note that as a solo female I had no problems walking around at 10pm from Brera to my hotel. The day before my friend and I had been walking around after 12am.
Reflections on Milan: I can say I loved Milan. In general, I found Milan to be a very attractive city. The Galleries, stores, cafes, restaurants, churches and museums are rather grand. The city in general seems more spaced out compared to Rome and Florence. This is a sophisticated city and I cant wait to go back one day. It also felt completely safe.
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Here is a link to my blog post and photos
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Sorry all but I am still trying to complete my trip report. Here is the next instalment.
30 June Day trip to Lake Como
I had initially planned to stay a night in Como to explore the area around Lake Como but decided not move hotels and to stay in Milan. I actually didn't want to pack and unpack again. So it was a day trip to Lake Como instead. Good decision. I had the Lake Como chapter from Rick Steves' guide book and used it to make my around Lake Como.
I took the 9:20am Trenord train to Varenna from Milano Centrale. The train station was really crazy busy but the train was empty. In one hour I was in Varenna.
Varenna is an adorable town and a photographer's dream. I followed the guide book instructions and walked from the train station to the ferry dock area. I found the tourist info office first and they gave me a ferry table. The helpful lady in the ferry ticket office advised me to buy individual tickets rather than a pass.
With my onward journey organised I took the Lover's Walk around the lake front heading towards town. There were some nice stores selling art work along the way. I had a quick coffee at a café (needed an extra boost this morning). I didn't walk all the way to the castle or Villa Monastero but just to the main piazza with its 4 churches!
I took a table at the Nilus Bar and enjoyed an orange juice on the lake front before catching a quick ferry ride to Bellagio.
By this stage I was ready for lunch. I took a recommendation from Rick Steves and went to Trattoria San Giacomo. One of their specials of the day was vegetarian lasagne! My favourite! The food was good and the service was fantastic. After lunch I walked around the lanes of Bellagio which are full of cute little stores selling jewellery, ceramics and silk scarves. I ended up buying a statement ring and bracelet from one of the jewellery stores in town. I found Gelataria Del Borgo to get my gelato fix and then walked to the view point Punto Spartivento for some photos.
I looked up the timetable and saw that I could make the ferry to Villa Carlotta. So glad I went. The gardens were stunning and the villa itself was beautiful. It was starting to warm up and I loved finding a man made rainforest mist in the garden. It was like being in a different world. Very Avatar.
I walked to Tremezzo and saw the legendary Grand Hotel with its floating pool.
From Tremezzo I caught the ferry to Como which took about 2 hours. Coming in to Como was fantastic. Got the best views of the lake and Como.
The ferry docked directly in front of Burate furnicular. So why not... Took the furnicular up the mountain with fab views on the way. Had a little walk around the town which was closed.
I walked around the lake front following the signs to the train station Lago di Como. I soon as I go to the train station I saw a train standing on the platform. The departure board said it would leave in 10 mins. Ran to the station ticket office to buy tickets. Used the machine with the help of some other tourists to buy ticket. Made it!! The train took me to Cardona station. From there I easily caught the metro to Duomo.
I was too tired to look for a nicer place for dinner and read in the RS guidebook that there was a self service cafeteria called Ciao in the Piazza del Duomo. Frankly the food was rubbish. I would have been better off going to McDonald's next door.
Went to the view point near the funicular to take some photos and then caught the furnicular back down. I did not have the energy to go up to the lighthouse
Reflections on Lake Como:- I loved this day trip and am so glad I went! I had one of the best weather days with a clear blue sky. All the tips and information from the TA and Fodors forum came in very handy. In comparison to the organised day trips to Tuscany, I found that I had a lot more flexibility and freedom to do as I pleased. While I knew what I wanted to do I didn't set any time limits on myself and took things as they came. This meant that I did not get to explore Como the town itself. But that's ok – that ones for next time
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Here is a link to my blog post and the photos:-
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But wait these more
1 July Day trip to Switzerland on the Bernina Express
I had booked an organised tour called Swiss Alps Bernina Express Rail Tour from Milan on Viator. Started very early in the morning by walking to Zani Viaggi office. Met up with the tour leader and group at 7am. We all got on the tour bus to Tirano. The scenery along the way was beautiful. We went around Lake Como via Lecco to Tirano.
First stop was Santuario Madonna di Tirano, a beautiful church.
After visiting the church, we got back on the bus to the Tirano train station. The group decided to go to a restaurant for lunch. I bought some bread and cheese from the supermarket and had this as I walked around the town. Not much to see here. There are 2 train stations. The Italian station and the Swiss station across the square from each other. A few cafés and restaurants around the square. Saw the Bernina express pull in and saw loads of tourists transferring between stations.
Had a coffee at one of the nicer cafés near train station before meeting the group. We got on the Bernina express at 12:40pm. The trip was around 2 1/2 hours to St Moritz and the scenery.... Oh la la.... Words can't describe what my eyes saw.
St Moritz was overcast and a bit drizzly. I had my order from home to buy Swiss chocolates. I went to the TI and they told the nearest Coop supermarket was 2 mins away. Sadly the selection of chocolates was limited. St Moritz is obviously a town that caters to a certain type of clientele. The Dior and Prada crowd. While it would have been fun doing a bit of window shopping, it was freezing cold and drizzling. I got myself a hot chocolate and took 10.
Then walked towards the river for some photos before finding the tour group in the train station parking lot.
On the bus we went on a wild spin around some off the most nail biting hair pin bends. This was the Maloja Pass - worse than Amalfi! But a lot more orderly must be the Swiss influence....
We had a 45 min stop for dinner at an auto-grill which served surprisingly decent cut pizza slices. Or maybe it was the fresh mountain air making me hungry...
In any case we made to Milan by 8:30 as promised.
I went to the hotel to freshen up and then went back out to hunt down Grom gelato. Found it on Via Santa Margherita. I followed the sound of rock music coming from Piazza Del Duomo which turned out to be an MTV concert! The performers were a very popular Italian rock band. I stood around listening for a while and bopping along with the crowd before heading back to the hotel. The best thing about travelling is finding these fun unexpected surprises along the way.
Here is a link to my blog post and photos:-
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More wonderful TR and shots. Villa Carlotta gardens spectacular.
"The best thing about travelling is finding these fun unexpected surprises along the way. "<<<<So true.
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Lake Como ... one of the most beautiful places I've ever been! I have fond memories of ferry rides, walks around picturesque towns, breathtaking views & our stay in Bellagio. We also had a nice dinner at Trattoria San Giacomo. Even in the fall, the gardens at Villa Carlotta are lovely! Thanks for taking me back through you TR & gorgeous photos!
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2 July Milan - The Last Supper and Shopping
It was a cold and wet morning. I had an online booking to view Da Vinci's painting of the Last Supper but I almost didn't make it! For once the iPhone map instructions sent me in a circle or I lost my sense of direction in the rain. I had 9:45am time slot ticket and I got to the ticket office at 9:38 praying that they let me in. The lady looked at me sighed and then gave me tickets. Bless you!!
We were taken into a little chamber, before moving into the actual hall that contains The Last Supper paining. Words fail me. It was incredible and incredibly moving.
I was shocked that the monks had a cut door under the painting and Jesus's feet can no longer be seen.
As I came out, I saw that it was still raining. I no longer trusted the iPhone map app. We had broken up and it was bad... iPhone you are not my BFF anymore!
Using the paper map, I went to the metro station and caught the metro to Via Montenapoleone. When I walked out of the metro station, the sun was peaking out.
Walking down Via Montenapoleone I saw all the big names in luxury fashion. Look but don't dream of stepping in looking like a poor tourist. I wish I could have had my pretty woman moment but I had no bundle of euro to flash around. So I turned around, walked to Corso Vittorio Emanuel II. Ahhhh here was Zara, Mango, H&M.... First shop I went into was Massimo Dutti. The sale assistant immediately told me that there was 30% off all summer stock. Right - the sales had started!
I bought a few things but to be quite honest I was tired and hungry. For some reason I had forgotten to eat lunch.
I thought I'll try the La Rinascente food court. Well, it was busy and expensive. But I was hungry, so had salad from one of the outlets.
More window shopping. Walking around the opera area. Contemplated seeing if I could tour the opera house but was really feeling exhausted.
Back to hotel for a rest and final packing.
I asked for a recommendation for dinner from hotel concierge and he told me about a nice little restaurant around the corner. I had a wonderful dinner at Hostaria Borromei. I had the pumpkin ravioli and warm chocolate cake. The waiter recommended a delicious wine. I totally recommend this place. The atmosphere was lovely and the service was outstanding. The food delicious.
I retuned back to the hotel a happy, well fed little camper...
Here is a link to my blog post and photos:-
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So this is it - the last post!
3 July Flight to Adelaide via Dubai.
My flight to Adelaide via Dubai from Malpensa Airport was at 2pm. I had a leisurely breakfast and checked out of the hotel.
Taxi to Cardona train station 10E including 2E tip. The taxi driver was nice enough to drop me at the direct entrance to Malpensa Express. The train to airport. Quick, clean, efficient and without the craziness that is Milano Centrale.
Got to airport in 40 mins. 3 1/2 hours before my flight. Good thing too. The line to get a tax refund was long and slow.
Checked in and ready to return home.
Italy – I still dream of you….
Here is a link to my blog post
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I really enjoyed your report and your blog. You clearly planned really well, and seems you had a nice mix of tours and solo travel. Glad you had such a fabulous trip!
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Ozgirl07-I finally got a chance to finish your fabulous report.
I really enjoyed your blog with the photos.
I share your love of travel beauty, and fashion and coincidence- I am an accountant and a vegetarian too (my luggage is black but favorite color red-so yes- I get you).
For me sometimes its travel solo or don't go, but I prefer going with a friend. My last trip to France I went to an immersion school and had my first experience in a "tour" setting. It turned out great-but I don't think I would like sharing a room with someone I did not know before hand.
I also had a similar experience in Aix as you did in Florence-I think I was the only person at my B&B which made it kind of spooky at night thinking I was the only person in the place.
After reading your report I need to get myself out of France and back to Italy.
Thanks for posting- Ciao
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Jmct714 thank you. I really enjoyed reading about your trip too.
FabulousFrance I really enjoyed reading about your experience of the french immersion school. I think we could definitely be travel buddies so sign me up for your next trip! I am planning/thinking about taking a trip in Dec for Christmas as I have almost 3 weeks off work. And then another trip in June/July 2015 for which Turkey and Sardinia are high on my travel wish list but I'm also considering South America.
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19315 N 12th St, Covington, LA 70433Request info Add to list
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Carrie B.
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Building Details:
19315 N 12th St is aland property for lease in Covington, LA.
Offered for sale is a commercial site with visibility steps from Highway 190! The improvement is currently a tattoo shop paying $950 per month with tenant on month to month basis. Rent has been flat for over 5 years so there is room for increase. The structure is movable and can be re purposed as a hunting camp or other sort of temporary building. This would be a great site for a small medical or professional office.
Please do not disturb tenant - call Scott Weston at 504-274-2671 for all viewing requests and inquiries.
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text:
That's what friends are for
Pat McDevitt (foreground), Lance Stewart and Bryan Benn on Tuesday, Feb. 14, carried the flagpole from the demolished post office of Second Avenue North and Main Street to Stewart's home on Third Avenue North and Daley Street, known as "Meyring Corner" to many, in honor of the longtime Edmonds family.
Stewart plans to put the flagpole in his front yard.
He also said he will request a historical marker from the city, as the flagpole was an icon on Main Street for more than 55 years.