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We last visited India in 2006 and it was only an 11 day Golden Triangle tour on our own with a driver and guides where needed. Some of you will remember that I was not overwhelmed by India itself. As time has passed and I have thought more about that experience I have decided that I was wrong and that in fact India is one of the true hotspots on the earth. For the last couple of years we have wanted to return there. We have enjoyed trip reports from Kathie, Craig, Dogster, Lcuy and many others making this desire even more intense.
So, with this in mind, I put together this year's Asian trip. We will visit Thailand for about 10 days (our 15th visit there), then move to India for several weeks with a 5 night sojourn to Kathmandu, Nepal in the middle.
Finn Air, whom we have been very impressed with in the past on other trips, offers good service to both Thailand and India and had exceptional pricing, so I went with them for the trip. They also have excellent time schedules arriving in Bangkok mid afternoon and leaving Delhi mid-morning. We are able to collect American Airlines FF miles as well which makes it even better. To some the layovers in Helsinki might not work, but for us it is an added bonus (15 hours going and 22 hours coming home). They also fly air buses with 2 X 4 X 2 seating which is a plus.
I might note here that airline pricing from a major international location, like NY, DC or LA often lightens the cost load of a ticket… Flying from Boston on a combo ticket with Finn Air added a huge amount to the trip price, same with Korean. We could fly on jet blue and others to JFK, but I find it easier and cheaper to drive the approximately 4 hours in a one way car rental for about $100-125, instead of taking a car service to Boston Logan 2 hours or so before flight time and paying over $100 each for the flight to JFK. It only works because the Finn Air flight isn't until about ~6PM. Coming home we will fly Jet Blue from JFK to Boston.
So with the main International flights in place I began my day to day planning for the 6 weeks. We talked with friends about joining us for all or part of the trip and in the end there were no takers. Gpanda would have called them victims…. We knew we wanted some Thailand time both in Bangkok and at the beach. The subject of getting from Bkk to India at a reasonable cost might prove to be a problem. I knew Air Asia had opened up flights which we might use through KL, but then they began service directly from Bkk. There were the Indian carriers as well and Thai air, the most expensive. Eddie's pricing was not all that favorable this time ([email protected]) so I knew I would be on my own. I finally settled on Kingfisher Airlines, a highly regarded Indian discount airline (this week there are reports of trouble with them---damn). A one way flight through Expedia is $116 plus $65 tax each--perfect. So now we were all set to get to India. Our first stop will be Kolkata (Calcutta).
In the meantime I had some communications with Arvind at Castle and King in New Delhi ([email protected]). I told him what I was planning to do, and he has made the driver/guide arrangements for us for much of the India experience, but not all. I have done 100% of the hotels online myself. In Kolkata we will be 100% on our own and will not have any C&K help until the airport pick-up in Varanasi.
So the places I will ATTEMPT to tell you about below are the following: NYC, HELSINKI, BANGKOK, KHAO LAK, KOLKATA, VARANASI, NEW DELHI, KATHMANDU AND AREA, UDAIPUR, JODHPUR, JAISALMER, BIKANER, JAIPUR AND GURGAON. I hope to cut back on the details, but probably will not be able to do so as this is what I find so interesting myself about every Fodors report I read. In fact, sometimes I get mad when people are cheap with their observations and commentary.
Having given you this introduction I will print below the details I work with each day on the trip so I know roughly what will be happening on each day:
M 10/17 Budget Car, Norwood--Pd
T 10/18 Bos-JFK-Helsinki Finn Air flt AY006 dep 1740 (8.10 hrs) 27 J&L
W 10/19 arr Hel 0850 Holiday Inn, Vantaa Airport Finn Air flt AY095 dep 2340 (10 hrs) 27 J&L
TH 10/20 arr Bangkok 1345 Marriott Resort and Spa, Bangkok-Br
F 10/21 B shop
S 10/22 B shop--books 3:30 GTG @ Maeng's--Side Pocket, Suk Rd
S 10/23 B dim sum?
M 10/24 B 8:30 breakfast at hotel orphanage Pook?
T 10/25 B-Phuket Thai Air flt 215 dep 1415, arr 1535 Pure Car JW Marriott Resort, Khoa Lak-Br none
S 10/29 KL to Bangkok Thai Air flt 214 dep 1525, arr 1650 Pan Pacific Svc Apt. Soi 55 Sukhumvit none
S 10/30 Bangkok to Kolkata, India (CCU) Kingfisher Air flt 22 dep 1615 arr 1730 ITC Sonar, --- SLC, Kolkata 2 D&E
W 11/2 CCU-Varnasi, India Jet Airways flt 2641 dep 1105 arr 1235 p/u by avrind's driver Temple on the Ganges
S 11/5 VNS-Delhi, India (DEL) Kingfisher Air flt 336 dep 1240 arr 1440??? reconfirm -- Marriott Courtyard, Gurgaon, India
S 11/6 DEL to Kathmandu, Nepal (KTM) Jet Airways flt 262 dep 1240 arr 1440 -- hotel p/u-see hotel sign Kathmandu Hyatt
TH 11/10 K order -----
F 11/11 KTM-Delhi, India Jet Lite flt 7056 dep 1515 arr 1625 Av's driver Courtyard, Gurgaon
S 11/12 Delhi to Jaipur Avrind's driver 0930 make stop @ Neemrana Four Points Sheraton, Jaipur
T 11/15 J-Udaipur, India Sheraton Udaipur Palace-Br
F 11/18 U add celebrity info
S 11/19 U-Jodhpur. India Ratan Villas, Jodhpur-Br
M 11/21 J start Malarone
T 11/22 J-Jaisalmer, India Nachana Haveli, Jaisal.-Br
TH 11/24 J-Bikaner, India Hotel Bhanwar Niwas, Bikaner
S 11/26 B-Jaipur, India Marriott, Jaipur-Br
S 11/27 J-Delhi, India Hyatt Regency, Delhi
M 11/28 D-----driver to shop
T 11/29 D driver to shop Marriott Courtyard Gurgaon
W 11/30 Delhi to Helsinki Finn Air flt AY022 dep 1050 (Av's driver) arr 1450 (71/2 hrs) Sheraton Kamp 27 J&L
TH 12/1 Helsinki to JFK Finn Air flt AY005 dep 1410 arr 1555 (8 3/4 hrs) 27 J&L
Jet Blue flt 1016 dep 1759 arr 1918 Bos 3 C&D
Finn Air locator -------------- 800-950-5000
Thai Air locator ----------
Hotels are extremely expensive in India so I wanted to see if I could cut expenses a bit here. I was quite successful. I have used some Marriott points; some Starwood points, plus cash; some free Hyatt nights from their initial credit card offer; some Hyatt points and finally some plain cash to secure decent accommodations throughout the India and Nepal portions of the trip. I am very pleased with what I have been able to find in this regard. Only one hotel, the Palace on the Ganges in Varanasi required the awkward pre-payment that many request. I did this through a wire transfer from my investment house.
Most of the hotels are 4* by Indian standard and 3 of them are heritage type small hotels.
I see no need to spend huge amounts of money for an Oberoi experience at say $400+ per night. All of our hotels are set for the trip. I find the earlier that you process your requests the better the pricing, especially with the International standard hotels. From time to time during the planning process I recheck the pricing, often finding lower prices for a short period, which I grab…
The trip begins on Oct 17 when we pick up our pre-paid auto rental from Budget (mid-size) at a local office--$89 all inclusive---the best deal I have ever found. We head for NYC mid-morning on Tuesday the 18th.
We arrive in Bangkok one week from today and look forward to it, flooding or not. Stay tuned for more.
Bob and
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We last visited India in 2006 and it was only an 11 day Golden Triangle tour on our own with a driver and guides where needed. Some of you will remember that I was not overwhelmed by India itself. As time has passed and I have thought more about that experience I have decided that I was wrong and that in fact India is one of the true hotspots on the earth. For the last couple of years we have wanted to return there. We have enjoyed trip reports from Kathie, Craig, Dogster, Lcuy and many others making this desire even more intense.
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Bob and Karen
sorry the schedule came out so jumbled--it is fine on paper
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Wow. Your first installment is longer than some people's trip reports.
Have a wonderful time. I'll look forward to hearing more of your adventures in Asia.
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Thanks for the update, Karen. I love the caps and correct grammar!
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shelley--- you know how brief i am
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Can't wait for all the details. Have a fab time. By the time you are back we shall be meeting up in NYC.
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Very interested in this.........having no real India experience.....and having it high on our list.
In spite of our differences, we probably have very similar requirements.
Really looking forward to hearing every little detail.
But Bob, please......take your time with the typing.....you know??
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Very much looking forward to this report - I am sure everything will be 100% perfect over the 5 weeks you and Karen are in India . I think its funny that you do the same as I do and note when to take your travel meds on your itinerary.
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I'm sure you'll have an amazing trip! I look forward to your report and to your updates while you are on the road.
Will you be doing one of the Calcutta Walks while in Kolkata?
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Gawd, Bob, why are you staying at ITC Sonar in Kolkata? It's 20 - 30 minutes away from everything. If it's just to save $$ and use points, it's not a smart move. The Taj Bengal is running 8,050 for your dates - much cheaper, closer and way, way better. Sadly, the Oberoi is booked out.
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dog, i'll check it out
leigh---some of the fun of reading one of my trip reports is trying to figure out what the H i wrote..
nicky---looking forward to our meeting in nyc in mid-december...tell muffin wearing ermine is all the style and he will be mobbed by all the A listers..
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Bob- what no seat assignments for these flights?
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we just had the best indian meal ever, i guess there is no reason to proceed with our trip... even in the darkest needham, we have good indian food... lcuy can vouch for it..
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Hey Bob, I am hurt you didn't ask me to come along, because I would have said YES!
Oh well, I know this will be a great trip and an even better report.
And I can certainly vouch for the Indian restaurant in Needham. It was great! You and Karen and I went there on our first (very blind) date.
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Bob and Karen, Can't wait for your trip report! Have a fabulous time.
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bill... the finn air flts are all in row 27---2 seater
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He made a goof already. We are staying at Temple on the Ganges, not Palace. Got to watch him all the time.
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Bob - I get what you mean about feeling underwhelmed with India. That was my initial impression, although ultimately my husband and i found the trip fascinating and were happy to have traveled there. We are just downloading our pictures - they are incredible and we can now reflect more on portions of the trip that already seem so long ago. What is most incredible though is that I have been having vivid dreams nightly, returning me to India. In all my travels this has never happened. India definitely gets under your skin.
Your report is so organized and off to a great start. Looking forward to your report. Make sure you dont miss the Lassa walla shop in Jaipur.
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Bon voyage, Bob and Karen. Our thoughts will be with you as you honor Gpanda's memory in Thailand. Please let us know about changes to the BKK Mariott Resort.
I look forward to following along on your report.
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Will be jealously following along and taking notes. Linda and I will be in Japan the last three weeks of your trip getting home around the same day so I'll save our trip report till we get back as this one will be taking up all the oxygen in here
Utilizing points and good planning you would do well in Japan......you would overflow the onsen though......lol
Lucky for us Karen is around to correct and pick up after you.
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I am so excited for your India trip to begin. We leave for India in 8 weeks, so I eagerly anticipate your trip reports and any last minute tips.
I've enjoyed everyone's India reports thus far, but think your traveling style may be most similar to mine and my husbands (for better or worse), and based on your recommendation I am using Castle & King for part of our trip. Look forward to posting our own report once we return.
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Have fun. Hope you don't freeze in Helsinki.
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We have some polar tech with us, which Bob doesn't think he will need. Ha! I am planning on wearing mine. Maybe even in Nepal at night.
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I was in Nepal in November last year, and I don't remember it being especially cold at night, at least in Kathmandu. Phulbari, on the other hand....
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"...I get mad when people are cheap with their observations and commentary."
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femi---you are not one of them!!
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Have a wonderful trip Bob....well planned and a good start to a detailed report.
Looking forward to following along with you.
I am sure you will enjoy India.
Good luck with the flooding in Bangkok.
Bon voyage.
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we are all packed... the snow stakes have been placed in the front lawn even though the leaves are still on the trees. we've been to the dump and tomorrow the door storm windows go in. BRING ON BANGKOK!!
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Boy, the things some countries will do to keep Bob from returning: a flood of historic proportions in BKK!
Have a great time.
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Hoping you remembered wading reef boots (as per lcuy on my facebook post) and a life raft (as per one of my BKK friends who frequents the PL)!
I am packed as well, and should probably start my own trip report thread!
See you soon.
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Bob - Can't wait to read your report. I have re-started my own trip report from the beginning and promise to try to finish it before you get to that portion of your trip.
I wanted to thank you for your recommendation of Castle and King. Arvind, the company owner is a real gentlemen. His drivers were all extremely competent and we felt safe with them at all times. On our return to Delhi, we met with Arvind to pay him for his services. I could not believe he didn't want money up front. Upon meeting with him, he offered us a complimentary car and driver for our first day in Delhi as his driver was available. Suni was a wonderful young man and spoke English quite well. Unfortunately, at the Lotus Temple, my husband was pickpocketed. This was at the end of our day so we returned to the hotel to cancel credit cards. Arvind emailed us upon learning of the pickpocketing and kindly offered us money and assistance if we needed it. We would recommend this company and its services highly. Thanks again.
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glad you enjoyed C&K's services.... i am anxious to use them again next month when i am in india...
i will be looking for your report june. i so enjoyed your past ones and of course karen loved your vn notes... even though at 75 pages they were way tooooo brief...
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we had dinner at similans in cambridge tonight (thai food) with mrs gpanda and a friend and it was a great prelude to the next two weeks...
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Hope you had a great flight to BKK. So envious of you trip and sad not to be meeting up with you guys in BKK this year, sigh.. Will have to miss out on our BKK winter sun fix. looking forward to your trip report.
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So, the trip begins……We departed the 'dreaded' Needham about 10AM in our rented Sonata headed for JFK in NY. A short stop at K's mother's to drop off some of K's nearly famous meatballs and pasta for her dinner, and we were on the road. Traffic was light and it was a bright dry day for the 4 hour drive to JFK.
We had a quick stop just north of Hartford, CT at Rein's Deli to enjoy good sandwiches for lunch and then back on the road. We had 2 brief slowdowns and arrived at JFK with plenty of time. The car rental area is off to one side of the airport entrance and the overhead free tram is right there to whisk you to your terminal. There is a gas station right there too. Our car rental was a pre-pay from Budget for about $90.---excellent rate.
Finn Air is in terminal 8. We were 2nd in line to check in and 1st in line for Immigration. It all was a breeze. The waiting area is very comfortable and the passed quickly. While we were waiting a small group of secret service types had formed next to where we were sitting. The incoming Finn plane arrived and a middle aged red headed woman was greeted by what appeared to be embassy people and she was escorted away---no immigration, etc.
We began to board about 5:10 for the 5:40 departure… The over head bins on this airbus 330 are medium size and my carry on needed extra prodding to fit. The seating is comfortable but tight… We are in the 6th row of economy, just at the front of the wing.
We pushed back 5 minutes early and are 7th in line to take off. The seating is tight but comfortable in the 2X4X2 configuration. Dinner is served not long after takeoff and complimentary wine (r & w) is served. Drinks are available from the drink cart for a fee. No entrée choice—chicken/turkey with a delicious sweet sauce, fried potato cubes and green beans. Wine service was repeated 3 times more.
The on board video system offered about 15 movies, video games, tv, and other options. K used it a bit but I listened to music for the whole trip. A sandwich was served before arrival in Helsinki---good multi-grain roll and really good ham and cheese.
We arrived in H 30 minutes early at 0820. quick move through Immigration—2nd in line… No bags to pick up as they are checked thru to Bangkok. Out to the curb for our free shuttle bus to the airport Holiday Inn, where we had stayed before. I chose it because the restaurant was good and decently priced in this very expensive city.
We were in bed by 0215, Boston time. We slept for about 7 hours getting up about 4PM Helsinki time.
Our plan is to have a nice dinner in the next two hours and leave for the airport about 9PM for our 2330 flight directly to Bangkok where we should arrive about 1:45 PM---yeas, no late night arrival!!
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Bob-I thought you usually do not check bags and go with just a carryon? I take it your not concerned about the checked bags getting lost. I'm trying to see if I can pack in just a 21 inch rollie for my 3 week trip to Myanmar because I am concerned about the checked bags not arriving in Yangon when we do.
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we always check bags... on our plane you would have had trouble getting your bag in the overhead... in cental rows bins it probably would have fit..
its just too much trouble to carry everything on... my carry on is an 18" i think..
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Shelleyk - We always take a 22" roll on and a backpack each as carry on. Never a problem except occasionally on small airlines and then it hardly matters as those are usually to and from small airports where nothing is getting lost anyway. You'll find you can pack a lot more than you think in those small bags. Usually my back pack has only a book (this time a kindle) and my camera. You can use the extra room to bring back souvenirs.
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Sounds as if the VIP on your incoming flight was Tarja Halonen, President of Finland (separated at birth from Conan O'Brien)
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Bob, Karen, enjoy your pool at Marriott for a while, and then come on into the city and we'll meet up for dinner. Hope your flight onward to BKK was uneventful, and that your bags arrived with you.
(I can't imagine carrying all my stuff on board... I've really only had one lost bag in all my years... and it was really LOST, but ended up being found about a month later. I have had a couple of delays where bags arrived on the next flight rather than with me. No biggie...
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we arrived just fine in bkk... we met carol and mcbeanie for dinner and then crashed...
the city has been spared flooding thus far but today may be another story. everything seems normal other than that.
tong and hanuman have lost use of their houses because of flooding. we wish them the best with recovery, but i fear it may be a huge ordeal.
i will write more later today after we finish some errands around town.
the marriott is fine as of now, but heavy water is expected later today. it seems the new government has really bungled this emergency.
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aloha bob, great report. looking forward to your india adventures, as i am planning to go to india in april next year. hi k.
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too tired to write tonight, plus too many free G&T's in club...
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Like your style Bob!
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Which is rhk's way of saying he's completely drunk, fell in the ornamental pool and is currently undergoing deep-tissue therapy.
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Oct 19 & 20 and 21
After our good sleep we showered and had a decent, but simple, dinner in the HI dining room, read expensive. Our plan was to head back to the airport on the 9PM shuttle. It was pouring down rain. The HI friends and family rate was 106E for our stay---perfect.
When we got back to the airport the place was empty. There were a few people in the international departure gates area as there were 2 other asian flights scheduled about 11:30 PM. Our plane was there and waiting…
Boarding was again swift. The flight was full. K thought she had 4 middle seats to herself until just before the door closed a family came on and she was back next to me…
There was a 20 minute delay because of a faulty smoke detector, but we were off about 45 minutes later. Dinner was served and we settled in for the 9 hour, 50 minute flt to BKK. We had the exact same seats as the previous flt in row 7 of the economy cabin.
We both took sleeping pills and I got 5 hours of good sleep. We arrived at BKK about 30 minutes late. Good flight. We were 2nd in the immigration line. Our cases came out fairly quickly, but K's was the last one to arrive. But, we had arrived at 1420 and we were in a taxi by 1505---AMAZING… a record for us.
I spoke with AOT limo as we exited and they asked 2700 B, about $81----O U T R A G E O U S… The last limo I had was about 1100B. We headed for the taxi line, and there was no wait and for our swift ride into the city---Marriott R&S on the river was 299 B, plus 70 B for the tolls.
We were greeted at R&S by the doormen who always remembers us. We were escorted to the club lounge for check-in and a simple snack. We had been upgraded to a jr suite on the 5th floor, main bldg (our favorite). My platinum Marriott gives us plenty of perks, the most valuable of which is free breakfast, internet and evening drinks. Our room is very nice and best of all has a separate shower stall, which the regular rooms do not…
Note to R&S regulars: the hotel ceases to be a Marriott about nov 1, and is being re-branded as an Anantara…. The south building is currently closed for renovations and I guess there are lots of other plans as well, including expansion into the mini-mall at some future point, plus there is the huge empty lot next to the bridge crying for expansion.
Sandbags are evident around the hotel in a few places but the city itself has more sandbags than the whole desert. The pier at R&S is straight out from the high water, no downward angle to the boat…. Boats were not running the first day but have now resumed. The river level is at least 5-10 feet above normal, and is 2 feet below the patio level. There is ground water between the slats in the pool area, which is no problem, but must be a mosquito breeding ground. We have not encountered any problems, YET, because of the flooding.
We are, however, devastated to learn of both Hanuman's and Tong's situations. Both have had to leave their residences because water has filled the first floors. Some of pook's staff is trapped on the 2nd floor with no electricity, no a/c, tons of mosquitos and one of his dogs. His pics on F/B are saddening.. We are keeping in touch.
Sadly, our plans to honor Gpanda's death with gifts to the orphanage and the blessing of some of his ashes, which I brought with me, will be postponed until our next visit in 2012.
So after we were settled into the R&S, we headed by taxi to K's jeweler on soi 4 Sukhumvit to drop off a couple of repairs and make a purchase for our eldest granddaughter, 11, who just had her ears pierced recently---think gold and pink…
From there we walked to soi 8 to meet Carol Simpson and McBeanie and her husband for dinner. It started to pour after our arrival so we just ate at Adelphi Suites. The McBeanie's are lovely.
After dinner we took a taxi back to the hotel and went to bed fairly early. Love this lack of a huge jet lague.
After a delicious buffet breakfast we headed to Chang's eyeglass shop (Mr Tong). I owed him 3000B for a past project and while there I ordered a pair of tv glasses as I am now liking glasses for the first time----do you know the things I was missing…
From there we went to Pantip, the electronics emporium. We looked at computers as part of our Gpanda memorial project…. Seems we can get decent name brand desktops for about $500-750 with all the add ons. Perfect. After that stop we headed back to the hotel. The pool was our agenda for the rest of the day.
We had a quick McDonalds for lunch and said hello to Jack, at Monet il Sarto, my tailor and put on our swim suits. I did some computer and K headed for the pool. I joined her later.
I spent maybe 2.5 hours in the water. About 5, we dressed and went to the lounge for drinks and hors'. Boy were those G&T's great. K was in heaven with freely poured wine---too much maybe?
We met a lovely English couple from Essex. We spent perhaps 2 hours in the lounge with them. We were not that hungry so settled on Phad Thai at the hotel and shared a delicious apricot and sultana crumble…. In bed at 10.
Up at 6 and now ready for breakfast. We have a mini-GTG today at Maeng's Sidepocket on Sukhumvit, across from the Landmark hotel at 4PM. It should be fun. In the meantime we are hanging out at the pool. It is overcast but bright.
There is a warning about more potential flooding within BKK today as more damns are opened up. We have our fingers crossed for everyone in the city. We feel perfectly safe.
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(dogster...lol...not a pretty sight)
Bob, nice to 'see you' up and posting early this morning. I was up at 5 but talked myself into going back to sleep, after a small bowl of cereal, and then had a second awakening at 7:30. I'm now very refreshed and ready for the day.
We have full sun, not a single cloud in the sky that I can see, down in city center. Will have breakfast (maybe mcbeanie and Richard will join me) and then have time to go over to Platinum today. I'll be that place will be busy.
Looking forward to the GTG at Side Pocket. Maeng is pleased to be hosting our GTG. She has never met rkh and K. In all their years of travelling to BKK, they have never crossed paths.... until today.
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we just looked at the river and it is down about 18" from yesterday afternoon--that may be tidal??
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the reason AOT wanted 2700B o/w was because you were wearing your gold crown on your head! and they were quoting a MB limo.
i was charged 1200B o/w 3 weeks ago and when i booked for later this week back to the airport it was 950B. rt to pattaya was 2600B o/w from my hotel on soi 10.
with your new TV glasses, you will know that walter cronkite is no longer the evening newscaster.
and speaking of Jack, where are my shirts?
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jack told me he sent your shirts yesterday???
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Saturday Oct 22
After a delicious breakfast we hung out for a bit and then hit the pool for a few hours. We had some lunch by the pool and later returned to the room to dress for the GTG at 4.
While in the room Hanuman (Pook) called me. For those of you who do not know his beautiful house now has water chest deep on the first floor from the Bangkok flooding.
He did not even sound like himself. He and the family will survive, but they never will be the same again.
Speaking of the flood waters, central Bangkok has thus far (as of Sunday afternoon) escaped any flood waters. We have just returned from the Sukhumvit area and life seems perfectly normal there. In many places however, there is a shortage of bottled water and staples.
So at 3 we left for the GTG at Maeng's Side Pocket pool room/bar opposite the Landmark hotel on Sukhumvit Rd. We ended up as 7 Fodorites: Karen and myself, Harouth (Skip Palmer, my best man who lives in HI), Carol and Brad Simpson, and Sandra and Richard (McBeanie from Houston). We had a ton of fun chatting and catching up, and then Maeng cooked us a delicious Thai dinner of perhaps 6 special dishes and white rice, followed by mango and sticky rice. Yum, Yum, Yum..
K & I returned to the hotel by 8 and were in bed by 9:30…
During the day we also spoke to our youngest daughter and K's mother. We used both regular skype and skype telephone which btw is very clear and cheap…
Sunday Oct 23
Lazy morning following a light breakfast. At noon we were meeting the 'McBeanies' at Rang Mahal in The Rembrandt Hotel (soi 18, Sukhumvit rd) for their fab Sunday brunch—all Indian. About 1800 B for 2.
We spent about 2.5 hours with them. It was fun getting to know yet another Fodorite couple.
On the way home we stopped at the newly opened Terminal 21 at the corner of Sukhumvit and Asoke Rds. It is a huge place for trendy youthful "crap". Each floor (maybe 6) has a different country theme. I couldn't wait to get out of there!! We had trouble getting a taxi there but finally got one back to the Marriott.
Karen just returned from a swim and I am just hanging out. We are in for the night. We will go to the club for drinks and have a light dinner here.
Sorry that this is not much of a travel log but it will improve on the 30th when it comes from India.
Tomorrow is our last full day in Bangkok for this trip.
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Hey Bob, are you thinking of going to the Batu caves when you are in KL lol?
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i hate caves and we arew not going to that K/L
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I was only kidding as I know you hate the Batu caves... Oh I got confused with your itinerary. Koh lak?
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How tragic these floods are. They are showing video here on the local news and the scenes are terrible. Please let Hanuman know we are collectively thinking of he and his family and praying for them. A big cyber bear hug from all here in HI.
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Monday Oct 24
This was to have been our day to visit the orphanage to deliver items being given in memorial to Andy Levine (Gpanda), but the flooding has put a stop to these plans so we have alternative plans.
A wonderful night of sleep…. Carol joined us for breakfast this morning---the McBeanies could not get out of bed I guess—haha… We had a nice leisurely meal.
Carol decided to join in some shopping with us after that… First we made a taxi stop just up the road at Hanuman's condo on the river to drop off a package from Amazon which he had sent to our house. Next we headed over to the Khoa San Rd area to pick my new glasses up from Chang ($. From there we headed to Platinum Fashion Mall on Phetburi, just up the road from Pantip, the electronics emporium. They have a new annex to the left of the main store and carol introduced us to it…. It is more organized as areas have themes, like a shoe area, a bag area, a men's area…
Main shopping goals were wild and weird evening bags for one daughter, shoes and costume jewelry… All were accomplished. We finished up with ice cream at Swensons in front of the mall. They were out of some things because of the flooding: whipped cream, some flavors and raspberry sorbet.
Carol took a tuk tuk back to soi 8 after getting the driver to cut the fare in ½ to 100B. We took a cab back to the Marriott for a nice swim—102 B.
This evening we are heading to Tongue Thai in back of the Oriental for dinner. Gpanda introduced us to this restaurant quite a few years ago so it seems fitting that on our way there we will release a few of his ashes into the Chao Phraya River. I think he might like that…
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Enjoy your dinner. I'm eating shrimp at Meang's. I'm signed under bradinbangkok, but it's me, Carol. I really had a nice time today. Will I see you when you come back to BKK from KL, and before India? We could do dinner, maybe? Have fun in KL.
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We invited a english couple that we had met a few days ago to join us for dinner at TT. We met in the lounge for a drink. The GM stopped by, calling me by name which surprised me. We had a wonderful conversation about Minor Corp (the owner of the hotel), the hotel's future, Bangkok, the flooding, hoteling, his family, private schools in bkk ($11000./yr). He spent at least 15 minutes with us. Nice guy (beth---same guy with the deserts).
We took the hotel boat and changed to the Oriental boat to get to TT. We had a good dinner and took a taxi back to the hotel.
Bed about 10...
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dinner 1250 B incl tip.
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what's TT
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Tongue Thai restaurant.
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Hope you are safely out of Bangkok. All that flooding is worrisome.
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dgunbug, the flood waters are not in the city center, where it is dry and sunny once again today. But, the signs seem to be getting more ominous that flood waters will breech some of the walls/dikes/canals and will hit this amazing place. I hope that does not happen. But I am thinking of leaving in a couple of days, and will stay away until it is time for me to head home on Halloween.
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I, too, hope all of you have safely left Bangkok. It is surreal reading this thread after seeing many dire reports on the internet and speaking to friends who left days ago. The weather has nothing to do with the impending floods; the problem has to do with faulty levees and the inability to control waters coming from the north. My thoughts are with all of you, as well as with those who have lost their homes.
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we are leaving bkk in 3 hours...
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Bob, seriously joining you and K at JW in Khao Lak. Will call you.
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serious THINKING OF joining you...
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Hi Bob and Karen,
Hope you have landed dry and happy.
As usual, love your reports. Bob, keep the details coming : ) I get lost (in a good way) in your descriptions.
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more tomorrow... another blunder by rhk...solved in a one hour line at thai air...
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Hope you made it out of BKK without too much of a problem. Guess you made a final farewell to the trusty Marriott on the river, henceforth will be known as the Anantara. Seems though that SOMETHING untoward happened at the airport. We'll stay tuned to learn more.
Smooth sailing
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Khao Lak is a bit overcast today, but it is dry. Infact things look like they could use some rain/water down here. Just went to breakfast and we are going for a swim before we go to get Carol in Phukett.
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Now wait... I'm coming in TOMORROW not today, Karen.!!!!!
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Tuesday Oct 25
Sadly our time in bkk is finished, but luckily we are getting out of dodge before the water comes to the central city, which seems an almost certainty…
We slept really well but were up early. We dressed, put "andy" in a small platic bag and were off to the ROS (that is the dreaded Royal Orchid Sheraton). By "andy" I mean a few of his ashes. We also took with us 2 beautiful purple orchids. Our intent was to leave a bit of him as a memorial gesture at his favorite hotel.
We got the 7:15 marriott boat to taskin, but of course the lame Sheraton boat from there does not run before 10AM---guess they think no one goes anyplace before mid-morning---DUH… We took a taxi to the hotel from taskin pier.
We learned upon arrival at ROS that the fab pool area in the grounds of the Portuguese embassy is closed for a couple of days… this was a fav area for gpanda to swim and smoke cigars and we wanted to leave a bit of him there, but we found other areas to do so.
We launched one of the flowers into the river with some ashes on it; we put more ashes by the base of a huge tree at ROS; and lastly we placed the other orchid with some ashes on it at the offering site at the ROS spirit house near to the river.
We returned to the Marriott by taxi, went directly down for another huge breakfast and some good-byes to the restaurant staff (read $$). We shared our meal with our new English friends from Essex.
We spent the rest of the morning just hanging out and repacking. About 11 we left for the airport. THIS IS WHERE THINGS BEGAN TO CHANGE FOR THE WORSE.
Our driver was a mad man!! He was high on some sort of drink from a small square brown bottle. By the time we discovered this we were on the highway already. He was speeding like a madman… moved from one lane to another, zoomed up onto people's tails…. I told him to slow down—did not work.. it was a bit scary. In a 40 zone he was going 80-100 near to the airport. WE MADE IT HOWEVER.
Next was checkin to thai air to phuket. Not that many people in line. She asked for my credit card—the one I had charged the tickets on. I knew I needed it but I guess I did not bring it. We were sent to customer service where we spent one hour in line… They made me buy a new ticket and in 30 days I will get a full refund on the old ticket---same price. A lot of paperwork for nothing.. 60 minutes later all was fixed..
Boarding was swift. I had checked in the night before online, but did not have boarding passes…. 65 minutes later we were in Phuket. Our luggage came out fast and the car company rep was outside waiting for us. I have used Pure Car Rentals in and around Phuket a number of times in the past.
This time we have a mid-sized Honda 5 door with automatic for 1000 B a day---great deal I think. It is well powered and comfortable. About 12,000 miles. They deliver and pickup from the airport and other places.
We drove north for about 75 minutes, thru 2 heavy rain showers to KL and the JW Marriott, which is a fantastic 260+ room lagoon, surrounded beachfront resort. This is our second visit here.
We were treated as VIP's based on my platinum Marriott status. Our pool access room---3 steps down into the lagoon, is nicely appointed with high ceilings, a huge bathroom (toilet room/shower room/huge stone tub/double sinks), a king bed, a chaise lounge and a sofa….
We were greeted with a 3000 B bottle of vintage cab which is like velvet, and tons of flowers in the room and an elephant made from white towels. We feel very much at home.
We ate in the Italian restaurant and were entertained by 4 singers—3 women and a man on key board who also sang. A nice start to our beach stay.
Some tv in the room and then early to bed again… very firm beds.
This morning I look out from my desk at a lovely patio with two easy chairs and ottomans, a drying rack, a 10 foot wide 3.5-4 foot deep lagoon with a blue tile lining, a 'wall' with yellowish/green banana plants growing for privacy, and the top two floors of the penthouse rooms with peaked style thai roofs in the background… In short a lush and lovely scene.
Our group of buildings is close to the beach and the themed restaurants making this a #1 location on the property.
Just as last year we are very happy here!! A lazy day is on offering.
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Sounds purrrrfect!! Can't wait to get there tomorrow. And thanks again for the offer to come to pick me up. Much appreciated!!! You two are reallly special friends.
Brad says that 'they' (who ever 'they' might be) are saying that Sukhumvit and Silom (city center) should be/will be spared from flood waters. Not sure how they figure that??? But hope it is true, none the less.
Are there shaded areas around the lagoon...? What about hammocks swinging between two palm trees??? I'm not a sun person, you know. Pls have the butler staff prepare something for me... haha
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Bob, meant to say also that your 'andy' plans sound very special. I'm sure Beth will be pleased. Give her my best when you get back to BOS, whenever that might be...
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Had a very interesting AM out at the beach. After my walk on the beach a woman came running toward me to get her children out of the sea. She was shouting "a monkey....a monkey." As if that is an unusaly occurence here in Thailand. Any way , it way a trained monkey on a very long lead. His job is to climb the coconut trees and pick the big ones before they fall on us tourist sitting on the beach. The gardeners then cracked them open and we all got fresh coconut milk. It was good for a half hour's entertainment anyway. Back to the pool.
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there are limited shade areas but there are some... umbrellas too and your porch will have a partial overhang...
i've been cutting carrots all afternoon in anticipation of your arrival...
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Love your Andy memorial at the ROS, just perfect. Glad you are safe and well. It really is heartbreaking to hear what is happening to the wonderful people of Thailand.
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How very special that you brought Andy back to the ROS. I was smiling at the thought of you both doing that. How appropriate.
That is a very nice property you are at now, we drove there from the other Phuket Marriott in January to take a look around and have lunch. Are they still offering "soft" opening rates?
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A lovely memorial to Andy at his (and my) favorite Bangkok hotel.
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Cutting carrots, Bob? Thanks so much! With friends like you.........
Sukhumvit is still dry right now. Hope it stays that way. I hope my trip to the airport is not as exciting as yours, rhk. My doorman will get me a good driver, I'm sure.
See you this afternoon.
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Yes, a very fitting tribute to Andy
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off to phuket to pick carol up after a bried swim..
sue rates are still decent, but the place is packed..
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Glad I got my room booked when I did, or all I might be able to get is the penthouse suite!!
Thanks again for coming to my assistance! See you in a few hours.
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So we spent a lazy morning today hanging around, had a swim and just before 12 jumped into our comfortable Honda for the trip down to Phuket airport to pick carol simpson up.
We were a bit early so we nipped into the JW Marriott in phuket for some lunch at the deli. Good as ever. Arrived at the airport about 2 for C's 1:45 flt arrival. K found her inside while I double parked. Quick ride back to our hotel (about 1 ½ hours +/-.
Carol was given the pool access room directly next to ours, #3030. I had spoken to the room coordinator the day before in hopes she could be nearby. The hotel is very full.
Extended holiday time has been granted to residents, so both tourists and locals are fleeing bkk to avoid possible flooding.
We had seen the general manager of the hotel at breakfast and he had made a tentative date with us for dinner that night. I told him to leave us a msg. There was no msg when we returned so we decided to eat here about 7:30. At 6 a note was placed under our door asking me to call him if we wished to share a dinner. I did and he agreed to an 8PM date at the thai restaurant. We were 5 people: carol; Karen and me; and he and his wife kim (a Korean-american). We were escorted to one of those sunken tables at the back of the restaurant where we removed our shoes and slouched down into the table. Ok, I thought I don't see a derrick around here to lift me out after dinner---plus there were no seat backs, except for one of those useless thai triangle pillows. QUIT COMPLAINING, THE FOOD WILL BE GOOD AND THE COMPANY EVEN BETTER! And it was. And he picked up the tab, even better.
Needless to say there was a very attentive staff with a senior staff member kneeling next to Ty (the gm) much of the time. We ordered chicken lab (mei pet- medium hot) and papaya salad for shared appetizers. Carol has a few items she cannot eat so they were eliminated from anything we ordered. Ty asked that the chef prepare one of the evening special dishes for us, a giant prawn dish, and that he, the chef choose a few other dishes for us. So after a white wine/beer warm up with our apts, the special giant shrimp dish was presented---they were so tender, I could not believe it. There was a really good fried sea bass dish---simple slices of flesh, with a light coating and fast fried with a light sauce---delicious. There was steamed rice, another shrimp dish and a tenderloin and pepper dish. All were delicious and the conversation was entertaining. The GM is from Seattle and Kim is from FLA, via Philly.
For dessert we had mango and sticky rice, k had a sweet pea concoction (she said it was not that good.
The dinner lasted about 3 hours. I did not need the derrick, but I did need some help getting out of that hole.
Friday Oct 28
I slept till about 8 today. We spoke with carol, who had already been for a walk around the property and agreed we would do breakfast about 8:30.
Our new OZ friends joined us so we were 5 noisy folks in the dining room. The breakfast is a nice layout in an exceptionally large glass fronted (on the beach) room. Carol met ty while gathering her foods. She asked if there were not baked beans? He replied I will bring you some, which he did 5 minutes later. SO CAROL WAS SERVED BACKED BEANS BY THE HOTEL GM. He obviously recognizes power and wealth when he sees it. We introduced our OZ friends to Ty and we had another nice chat.
K has headed out to the beach, C is on her patio doing word games and I am typing. This will be a do nothing day for sure. YEA. Shortly I will enter the water directly from our room—a nice perk.
BTW, we had some laundry done at a small place on the access road. It was 240 B for a huge pile—about $8. Better Thailand clean rather than India clean me thinks.
We are having a great time and worry just slightly about our brief return to bkk tomorrow overnight. We are really looking forward to our Indian/Nepal excursions which begin on Sunday.
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Bob, see what being polite and nice will get you?
This really is the perfect place to just veg, which I am successsfully doing!
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we were making a comparison yesterday between the two JW Marriotts---khao lak and phuket. we have stayed at both.
phuket is more upscale for sure in some ways, but KL seems much less frenzied and relaxed. you see far fewer people and there is much more pool water per person because of the huge central pool and the 3 kilometers of lagoons. both have tons of food options. KL has a more remoteness to it.
both are fantastic properties.
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i just completed my internet checkin for both my flt to bkk tomorrow and my flt to kolkata, india on sunday. so now the trip begins to roll.
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regarding the two JW Marriotts - and I'm sorry if this is a very stupid question, I don't know the lay of the land there at all yet - do you happen to know if either would be closer to an area where people scuba dive?
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KL is close to the Similian Islands, where there's great diving.
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Enjoy your flights to India. 10-15 inches of snow(!) forecast for tomorrow night in CT.
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What!!!!!????????? Craig, if CT is getting 10-15, that means that Illinois is probably expecting 20! Aaaaarrrggghhhhh...
Guess I'd better check the weather forecast for home. I'll be there Monday afternoon.
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Carol - not to worry, it's an east coast storm. Revised now to 8-12. Heck, maybe it won't snow at all...
It's darn cold here though for this time of year...
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My weather looks like upper 60s during the daytime and a bit chilly (40s) at night, so I should be fine. I thought I might have needed to pack my winter coat and boots to get to my (frozen? snow-covered) car in the parking lot. Looks like I don't have to worry about that.
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Hello fellow "Fodors" subscribers. This is my first entry and I'm not quite sure just what I'm replying to but I guess I'll work it out as I get better at this.
We are staying at the JW Marriott at Khao Lak, Thailand, a wonderful venue, and have met Bob and Karen and Carol, from the USA, who have introduced us to the Fodors website, so here we are.
WHILST I could write lots of travel stories, I won't RABBIT on this time as I really only want to let Bob and Karen know that we are now onboard and to thank them for being so friendly and allowing us to share their table at breakfast and at dinner outings. We hope your travel to India is safe and enjoyable and that one day we might meet up in Oz.
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first of all JoRo we don't hold it against you that you are from OZ.. we allow one new fodors member each year from OZ--as in the wizzard of OZ...
we welcome you here and hope you will find all the forums as helpful as we have.
we loved meeting up with you both.. especially robin
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For dinner we headed for the Green Pepper Restaurant in town. Carol came along and we were joined by Robyn and Richard from OZ. We had a nice dinner and lots of laughs… We all squeezed into our Honda for the 10 minute ride back to the hotel. This restaurant seves both thai and continental dishes.
Everyone came into our room for about an hour.
Sunday, Oct 29
Up about 8ish. Off for our last yummy breakfast. We took a table for 6. We spent way too long at the table, but it was fun…. Robyn instructed us on some of the origins of everyday sayings---I gave her a hard time and reminded her of her 'rabbit story' having to do with the word "buck"… she had been ½ right.. we said our good-byes and returned to our rooms for last minute packing.. We left the hotel about noon. Our 4 night stay was about 14000 B ($420), a fantastic Marriott rewards member rate.
We drove south, bought 1000 B ($30) worth of gas, dropping Carol (no E) off at the Renaissance hotel in north Phuket. She was upgraded to a fabulous multi-room suite…
We continued on to the phuket airport, calling our car rental agent (Pure car rentals) 10 minutes prior to arrival. An agent was at curbside when we arrived. He checked the gas level and took the keys and we were done. I urge you to rent from them..this is our 3rd rental.
Quick checkin and no line at security. Our flight was delayed about 10 minutes. We had a quick Burger King and with a 10 minute loading we were on our way—plane was full---Thai Air.
We observed some flooding just prior to landing.
Quick bag p/u and we were in an older yellow and green taxi (our favorite owner driven taxis) on our way to the nana hotel, soi 4 for K to pick up her jewelry projects. We kept the taxi while we were in the shop (2B per minute). We then were delivered to our hotel---Pan Pacific Serviced Apartment on soi 55, Sukhumvit. I gave the driver 500 B.
I had bought this nite at PP on line at one of those special asia rates offered by one of the discount hotel sites. $55 incl breakfast. This building is a purpose built building with 140+ apartments, a huge grocery store in the basement, parking, some lovely little shops, a wine shop, a pastry shop, a nice pool on floor 11 and lots of amenities for residents. Our room is nice, about the size of a Marriott room, but has a kitchenette, a large bathroom and a decent view from the 10th floor. Free internet.
I think the bigger units would be good for longer stays, but this size is only good for a few days. Soi 55 is a wonderful street with tons of restaurants, wine bars, shopping, bridal shops. The hotel is at sub-soi 8. A nicky kind of street.
One of the restaurants on the ground floor is a favorite---Crepes and Co which we usually visit at their main store on soi 10??. The best ever crepes—swiss style—crispy and large.
The bed is very comfortable. We had a nice breakfast Monday morning. K went for a walk in the neighborhood and I returned to the room. I have developed a cold and am coughing quite a bit.
We return to the airport about 1PM for our 4:15 Kingfisher Air flight to Kolkata (Calcutta), India. We are quite excited to be returning to India. Kathie, Craig, Dogster and Dunbug's reports have excited us and provided tons of info for us, THANK YOU ALL…
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OK..corrections on Bob's report above. Firt it is Robyn and John. I knew he would get that wrong. The bathroom a the the Pan Pacific is ok size...not large. The pool is big enough to swim laps and does have shade, although it is on a wood deck that would get hot midday. Neighborhood good area, safe and very walkable.Lot of eating options out on the steet . Sky train is down the road a ways, it would be a taxi ride for most people, not just us old people. They say a 10 min walk to Thonglor stop. Great option for thoses who don't have to be right on Shuk.
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I have not been on this board in to many months. I did not know of the passing of Gpanda. So sad! Although his health had failed the passing is still sad for his family and friends. It is good that part of him is back in Thailand. Having such good friends makes ones life better. Gpanda life was a blessing to many.
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When I arrived in Kathmandu I expected a "mountain kingdom" Switzerland of the East. I found "India light"' A real shock to me. The temples are amazing, my photos are interesting and picturesque, but the country was overwhelming to me. We loved the Hyatt for its opportunity to get back to normal "Western" atmosphere and its proximity to the Boudhanath Stupa. A wonderful trip but not what I expected.
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Reading along and waiting to hear about India and Nepal from your prospective.
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we are in india now--kolkata... i will write a bit about it tomorrow...
my cold is really making me drag..
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Hope you feel better soon, Bob - Maybe K can come out of retirement and "nurse" you back to good health?
Looking forward to hearing about Kolkata...
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a neighbor has just told us that there is a huge limb down in our back yard from the heavy snow... good to decorate when we get home for christmas..
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Bob-Thought you might be interested to know that there is a state of emergency in MA due to heavy snow taking down power lines. If you dont like India, come back and help clean up this mess. I am in Seattle now, but I am returning on Tuesday. Hopefully the power will be restored by then.
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Feel better Bob. I am also nursing a cold. Crazy weather all around the world. We had monsoon like rains in Florida this weekend and flooding on our streets. I've never seen anything like this weather pattern. We take the grandchildren to Connecticut next weekend. Would have liked snow then as they've never seen it. Enjoy your trip.
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june, craig will keep some snow in his freezer for you in CT...
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I had the days a little mixed up calling Sunday a Monday… combo of dumb and dumbness..
Anyways it is Monday here in Kolkata.
We enjoyed our time in Thailand, it was way tooo short as it always is. We made some new friends and enjoyed some old ones. We really missed seeing Tong and Pook and his gang. Our hearts go out to them as they begin the clean-up process as the waters recede.
Our last night was spent at the Pan Pacific Svc Apartments on soi 55, Sukhumvit. This is a really nice street (2 way) with a cross over at sukhumvit and a skytrain station. As I said before there are tons of nice shops and restaurants all along the street. It attracts the affluent of bkk. Our room was only $77 including tax/breakfast, using a special deal on one of the discount sites—like that deal at ROS last year. The room was comfortable, fresh and newish. We loved the little mall attached to it. There was a big grocery store, wine store and tons of little shops, not to mention a branch of Crepes and Co, one of our bkk favorites.
Before leaving for the airport we had a bite to eat in the gourmet shop on the ground level of the mall: onion soup for me and minestrone for K, plus we split a rich dense nut brownie.
Getting to the airport from there is a cynch… just go up to soi 63 which takes you quickly to the highway. We rode under the highway and avoided all the tolls. Our fare was 195 B and we got there in perhaps 20-25 minutes.
Kingfisher Air check-in was swift and easy as was immigration. Our flight departed from F-3 which was a long walk. The flight was less than ½ full.. We were in row 4, aisle and aisle. On-line check-in was easy 2 days before. The fare was $116 plus $65 tax, etc. each---senior rate booked on expedia in us dollars. Updates from expedia were excellent too when times changed slightly..
The flight was less than 3 hours flying over Burma and the ocean. Deplaning was quick and we were at a bus gate. We were quickly through immigration. AS I WAS TOLD IN THE USA I TOLD THE IMMIGRATION OFFICER THAT WE WOULD LEAVE INDIA FOR 5 DAYS IN THE MIDDLE OF OUR STAY, EVEN THOUGH OUR VISA WAS STAMPED THAT WE NEEDED TO BE OUTSIDE INDIA FOR 60 DAYS. SHE STARTED TO LECTURE ME ABOUT THE STAMP WHEN THE NEXT AGENT TOLD HER IT WAS NO PROBLEM AS NEPAL IS A NEIGHBORING STATE AND THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO TRAVELLING THERE.
She did not want to see our travel documents or plane tickets.
So the bottom line is that this situation is not a problem. I will report once again after we have done the deed.
The airport is very much a utilitarian kind of place. Nothing fancy or comfortable, and not very busy.
Our suitcases came out quickly. As we exited the area our rep from the hotel was the only one waiting with a sign, so that made it easy. He escorted us to a driver with a waiting SUV for the 30 minute ride to the salt lake city area of kolkata. On the way to the car I spotted a Citibank ATM, so I made a quick stop there. Our hotel is the upscale ITC Sonar by Sheraton 5*. It is a huge hotel. Our room is on the second floor of the club wing. You pass thru 3 security doors within the hotel to get to our wing. The hotel is designed around a central grassed and water area . There is a huge swimming pool where K is heading just now for much of the rest of the day. There is very much a leisure non crowded feel about the hotel. There are tons, and I mean tons, of help at this hotel.
Our room is large and comfortable with very good, unobtrusive, a/c. the bed is decent but not fab. There are at least 5 specialty restaurants. You judge the staff member's importance by his/her manner of dress, and there must be 5 levels at least. Everyone is very kind and helpful, and all have excellent English.
The driver, Mr Nasik (tel: 9830800222) is a very nice 29 y.o. guy from K. His driving is careful and his English, while soft spoken, is excellent. The hotel charged us about $26 for the p/u. I would not arrive here in retrospect without a prearranged ride.
The drive from the airport took us thru some newly developed areas of the city, incl SLC where the hotel is located. We are a ways from the city center, but this is a built-up area too… I guess all of India is built-up when you think about it.. We have scheduled mr. nasik to be our driver on Tuesdasy when we tour the city. We are having a quiet day today while I recover a bit.
After check-in we were escorted to our room by a man from the concierge staff. The room is very nice. We have a garden view which is quiet and I think preferable. Outside is noisy and there is some construction. Our driver told us that this is currently the #1 hotel in town? When we ask directions, a staff member always takes you there rather than just pointing the way.
We unpacked a bit and settled in. We decided on the Peshawri Restaurant for dinner…. A man on a rope just appeared outside my window and swept the ledge. Quite honestly the windows need a washing far more!!
We started with a cracker with cracked pepper and mint and tomato sauce for dipping. We ordered oven roasted chicken pieces with an egg coating and the famous bukkara dahl dish for our dinner, with both garlic and butter naans. We sharred. We split a kulfhi "ice cream" for dessert. Perfect… but $60 which did not please me.
We slept well and did skype telephone and internet this morning before breakfast.
Let me speak briefly to skype telephone. It is fantastic, clear as a bell, and almost free. I loaded my account with $10 before leaving home, have made many usa calls and I still have $9 left. I will never buy a sim card again. My account will auto refill when the credit is running low—another $10 direct from my checking a/c.
Today dawned clear and sunny. We had a nice buffet breakfast (500 rp each extra--$10).
We are staying here on a starwoods SPG rate of 2800 pts plus $45. This is a steal for sure. I don't remember the cost here but it has to be $200-300/nte. So this cheapskate is very pleased, even if the food is expensive.
I want to lay low for the day and see if I can shake this cold. It is already much better.
Tomorrow we will have the car for about 5 hours starting at 11AM (1500 rs=$30.). We will tour most of the main sites, but will not do any indepth touring as I really don't feel all that great.
As I sit here on the 2nd floor (which they call 12 for some reason) I look across very green short cut grass and walks past a row of trees and palms to a row of terra-cota roofs next door. The roofs are sort of pagoda style with several levels and a slight downward curve to them. It is very pleasant from here because I know chaos is just beyond all of this.
At breakfast we spoke briefly to a Brit sitting near us. He is in the leather business and works with quality. PAY ATTENTION NICKY. I forget the brand name but for sure you know it… the retail is 150-300 pounds in the UK for most of the handbags. I thought nicky would be all over him if she were here. He apologized to K as he has no samples on this trip, unlike most times. An interesting conversation in any case.
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Bob, as I said, you and I both had Bangkok cough. Mine is doing better now that I'm in Narita!
Glad you liked Pan Pacific. A bit off the beaten track for my taste though.
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Bob, I am paying attention!! Maybe K will remember the name of the company. sorry to hear you haven't been feeling well, hope you shake it off soon.
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I failed to note our ride from the airport to the hotel in any detail. Largely the population here is muslim and because of this there are not cows on every street.
I did note that it also seemed very dark as we rode along. There were lots of small stands along the roads and they are lit by a single candle usually. The roads were very bumpy, even when travelling thru newer areas. Huge malls are springing up everywhere.
The driver pointed out what he claimed to be the largest call center in India. BTW, we watched a movie before we left home called, CALL CENTER. Get it and enjoy. We found it so realistic of the western experience in India, with all the odd things that happen and amuse. We got it from Netflix.
K has returned from the pool after 3.5 hours. She says there was only one other person there.
As we walked around the extensive grounds we enjoyed seeing the huge coy fish in the ponds and also the serene looking pond houses with elaborate wood lattice work decoration. These little houses are filled with comfy sofas and chairs and have dual fans to move the air. A lovely area to sit and read and/or relax.
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Ok ..todays corrections...No red sauce at dinner, just the nice mint sacue with the papdans. Also the movie name is OUTSOURCED. It is a riot for those of you who have been here. The name of the purse company is Rogert, or some name similar. In Nordies in the US, and "good" stores in UK. Lovely and quiet by the pool.
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carol, my cough has turned into a full fledged cold. i am feeling better tonight.
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glad you are starting to feel better. We watched outsourced before going to India and loved it. Curiously I never did see the head wagging while on India. Enjoy India. Very curious to hear about your experiences in Calcutta.
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Great report so far -- glad to know part of Panda is in his favorite place.
Hope you get well soon -- it's awful to be sick away from home.
Delhi has a "no-cow rule" now. I wonder if Kolkata does as well?
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"Largely the population here is muslim and because of this there are not cows on every street." Bob, I think you are confused about this.
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Unlike what we expected, the weather here is very comfortable. Humidity, usually a problem here, seems almost absent. The temp was 27 C. It was very comfortable.
I feel much better tonight so we will hit the ground tomorrow mid-morning for a tour of the city for about 5 hours. We look forward to this.
Kathie spoke so highly about calcutta walks but we decided that we did not want anything that intense. Given the way i have been feeling, i think we have made a good decision.
We had a nice dinner tonight in the general restaurant. I had an 'indian' pizza with shrimp and chicken marsala. it was quite good. K has chicken strogonoff. Our waiter made us up two plates of both indian and western desserts from the buffet table. 1690rp.
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Waiting for you to leave the hotel and report on Calcutta!
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"I guess all of India is built up when you think about it"
Er, no. Some of India is profoundly rural, just try driving across Karnataka.
Glad your cold is better. I've been traveling with one too, no fun.
I agree with Kathie - a quick google shows Kolkata's Muslim population at around 20%, vs 13% for India as a whole.
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Kathie - I'm not sure Bob is confused about the cows on the road...may he is figuring that there is a lack of cows as they are being eaten by the Muslims. My husband who could eat hamburgers daily, longed for a good burger while we were in India, but to tell you the truth, I thought it was quite a turn off when you see the garbage those city cows eat.
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We here in HI know all about rhkkmk's mistakes (mostly on purpose). He likes to see if we are paying attention to what he writes......don't humor him. Probably craving a hambie right about now.....
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you got it!! but not an HI hamby
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We ate in the hotel at the general restaurant. The buffet is 1500 Rs but we did not want that much so we ate a la carte. I had a shrimp and chicken marsala pizza and K had chicken stroganoff. Our young waiter insisted that we have a dessert from the buffet which he would choose. We ended up with a plate of 4 western cakes/mousse, all chocolate and a plate of 4 indian desserts (two delicious custard type dishes and a small cheese ball with honey and a boring cake soaked in something). WAY MORE than we needed or wanted for sure---but we were not charged for it---extra tip for him.
Bed and tv followed (Anthony Boudane (sp) in Italy.
Tuesday Nov 1…. 11-1-11
FINALLY SOME MEAT TO THIS REPORT… Breakfast buffet leisurely. The concierge had scheduled the same driver we had from the airport to take us around the city for 5 hours (1500 Rs)… I chose an 11 AM pickup which we were told was perfect as we would avoid the morning traffic.
We told him, the driver, that many of the places on k's list (prepared from a nice booklet that the concierge had given us) would only be drive-bys but that we would want to visit some buildings… My camera was ready and I was pleased with the quality of pics thru the windshield and side window….I sat up front and K spread out in the rear.
Driving here is like driving in most of India---a bit of a chance. We were often cut off and we cut people off often. We squeezed thru tiny spaces with only an inch extra to spare. He proved to be an excellent driver.
Construction is everywhere, but that could be new or decades old—nothing is ever finished here. We drove past Eden Gardens, a large park area and cricket stadium. There were goats being herded in 3 places there---quite amazing in the middle of a city of 15 million people---8th largest urban agglomeration in the world. Eventually we reached St. Pauls RC Church, which is set in a small parkland of its own. The outside is very English in many ways, but the inside was quite a disappointment. A couple of stained glass windows, a simple alter—more like a school stage and tons of fans hanging from the ceiling.
BTW, we again found the temp/humidity to be quite pleasant---no sweating at all. K also reported in her notes that our hotel was about 20 minutes into the central city, not 45+ as many others had suggested.
From there we did a drive-by with a photo stop of the Victoria Memorial, which today is a huge art museum, which did not interest us at all (150 Rs/). It is a very impressive building looking somewhat like the US Capitol.
We then drove around Ft. William, a very large military reserve right in the middle of the city. It has its own golf course plus tons of fields and military buildings. We drove along Red Road, a large avenue upon which Indians were prohibited from walking in British times. We drove by a number of football clubs (soccer) which is popular here in Kolkata.
We reached the Hugli River and got out to see the activity there. Quite interesting but filthy. Kolkata is a huge worldwide port city. Thru the rest of the afternoon we were to see the river quite a bit. People were "cleaning" themselves, washing clothes and having religious experiences there. It is sort of Ganges lite.
We drove to the High Court buildings which are very attractive. We drove right on to the grounds and thru the busy streets around it. Traffic was unforgiving and heavy. Attorneys wear very formal clothing. Their frocks are all black and long, looking much like a US graduation gown. They wear a stiff white shirt with a high pointed collar and some sort of additional white neckgear.
We saw men with typewriters on the street preparing documents, etc. BTW, carbon paper is still widely used here. We passed a sidewalk tea shop where local workers were sipping small cups of tea. K points out the parking situation which was non-existent, so cars were just parked helter skelter.
Next we visited St. Johns Anglican Church. Our driver said that many by-pass this place, but we found it probably the best stop of the day. Set in it's own grounds, the golden building really does not look too church-like. It does have a spire, very much like small English churches. On the untended grounds there are a number of graves and memorial buildings. One of the most interesting is the memorial to the black hole of Calcutta, which was moved there in 1940.
We drove by the impressive GPO and the near-by Writers Building, both of which are impressive colonial style buildings.
We later drove by the old buildings (only 1 remains) of the East India Co along the river.
Nearby is a huge market area.
We then drove across the famous Haora bridge to the city of Howrah. We passed another large market along the street and the huge railroad station. The flower market is in the same area but winds down after 8AM.
From there we traveled to the back door of the Botanical Gardens. We parked there and entered for 50 Rs each. Shortly thereafter we boarded an electric tram which took us all around the garden for 30+ minutes. The driver pointed out many rare species of trees. We saw only 2-3 areas of flowers. Much of the garden is overgrown with weeds.
This is a favorite meeting point for young men and women. Almost every bench was their afternoon perch.
We drove back to the city over the "new" bridge which is quite impressive.
We made a short 30 minute stop at the new market. K bought a new watch for 400 Rs. Any bets if it continues to work thru dec 1??? She looked at shoes, but did not purchase.
Our last stop was at the Sisters of Charity. Located down an alley, this modern venue developed by Mother Teresa is very impressive. Her room and her grave are located there.
It was approaching 4PM at this point so we headed back to the hotel.
This had been a perfect day for us and was exactly what we wanted to do. I gave the driver a 30% tip as we were very pleased with what he had done for us.
Last night during dinner the chef, who roams the dining room, asked us what he could make for us. We had already ordered but discussed local possibilities for tonight. They will prepare a chicken roll-up -- to be described after we eat it.
The driver will come for us tomorrow at 8:45 for our 11:05 flight to varanasi via lucknow—jet airways-- $26 + $60 in fees.
A good start to our India adventure..
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Bob, it's fascinating to read of your introduction to Kolkata. We spent one and a half days with Calcutta Walks, and what we saw and what you saw had very little overlap.
I look forward to hearing your impressions of Varanasi.
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Great start. Amazing, isn't it - how buildings remain incomplete all over India. Kathie - did you do a report on Calcutta? I'd be interested to compare your notes.
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I did - it's toward the end of last year's trip report
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remember kathie that my mobility is not what yours is these days..
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Enjoying your report. I especially like the food descriptions and how you do not feel obliged to eat all Indian food all the time
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I can't figure it bob is eating Marsala chicken (Italian) or massala chicken (Indian)!
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ok, the chicken... When we got to the dining room no msg had been left about our meal... fine. we described what limited knowledge we knew about the product and they understood.
Essentially what it is is a warm chicken rollup on a flaky roti and then surrounded with a paper to hold it together. The inside was delicious spicy (almost too spicy) cooked chicken pieces within a thin egg omlette, chillis, peppers, marsala and maybe some other tid bits.
We asked about having something with it, but they really did not understand so we had it solo. For dinner, we could really have had something else too, but we survive. The waiter brought us another sweet curd/yogurt pudding, and i had seconds. It was the sweet pudding we had loved the night before. 1300 Rs with 2 big waters.
Now for my Kolkata GM experience--- you knew there had to be one. This morning i asked for a copy of my bill, based on previous sheraton experiences. I found the room rate was almost double what my confirmation showed.
I explained it a number of times and the clerk kept saying something about exchange rates. Finally he saw the light.
I told him we would come back after dinner. We did and it was not ready. odd. He gave it to me and we went into the lounge to listen to the quartet play while i checked it. He corrected one night but not 2. Back i went, but i was not as nice this time.
We had noticed a large group at the front door awaiting someone important. The GM stuck out in this group. We saw him later and I inquired if he is the GM---Yes. I told him my simple story and my new found annoiance. He apologized and said he would check with the front desk. I thanked him.
TV and bed.
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Great start to your India trip Bob....except for the bad cold.
Glad you are almost over it.
Can't help noticing that you found the skype phone helpful. Is this a stand alone phone...or do you add this feature to an iphone...or what? More details when you get a chance,please.
Bob, gpanda would be laughing his head off!! What's with Bob and hotel GM's.
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I can't figure it bob is eating Marsala chicken (Italian) or massala chicken (Indian)!
As for skyping - we also used skype while in India. If you have an iPhone there is a skype application you can download. Be aware that unless you have a sim card or unless you have a free wireless connection, the cost of using your phone can be expensive. If you put your phone on airplane mode it will prevent extra charges. The skype costs pennies to use if you have a wifi connection. I was also able to use my iPhone for free Internet service whenever I was connected to wifi.
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Well, bravo Bob, you've managed to miss out on Kolkata entirely. Not easy - but you've done it. Enjoy Varanasi.
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Kathie - thanks for the link. I missed your report first time around but loved the pictures and your wonderful description of your first trip to India.
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au contrare.. we have visited kolkata and have come away with what we wanted.
i have skype on my computers and i just call it up and then dial phones anywhere with the small credit i have in the system. i put in $10 and it refreshes from my checking a/c as necessary. long calls home only cost pennies and are super clear.. margaret will explain it to you. haha
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Very much enjoying your report.
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Au contrare.....is that French for "jelly donut"? Time to wake up and continue please.
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more coming later today... it is almost typed... power is out just now at hotel
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Not much different from Connecticut (starting day 6 without power)...
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Craig - Hope you all get power before we head up there this weekend. Waiting for more bob.
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Wednesday Nov 2
More problems with the bill this morning. This makes the 4th time I have had to go to the desk.. And evidently no help from the GM. So that means a quick note to him, and this time I asked for some bonus starwood points. We will see if he even contacts me.
We took an hotel car to the airport about 9:15 for our 11:05 flight. This time the domestic terminal, which has passed its prime for sure. Men and women are separate for security checks. The lines were sort of slow for the men. BTW there are lots of xray machines, even a screening upon entering and about 4-5 security ticket checks. Finally we were at the gate which had little a/c, but had fans in some places. When our plane arrived boarding was swift and we were off right on time. Again 3 security checks.
Arrival at Varanasi, at their new terminal, was a bit odd. Our jet airways flight parked way away from the terminal (discounter??) and we walked across the tarmac for quite a ways.
Our Castle and King greeter was at the exit to meet us. We walked across the lot to our huge SUV, bigger than we were expecting. We were introduced to our driver, Sunil, and we were on our way to the hotel, which we were told could take 1+ hours. The roads are not good, full of holes, piles of rocks, goats, cows, bikes, motorbikes, tuk tuks, people, kids, pedicabs and every other GD thing you can imagine. Oh did I mention the speed bumps…
We arrived at Hotel Temple on Ganges (www.hoteltemple.com) an hour or so later. It is just above assi ghat at the southern end of the 7 kilometers and 84 ghats along the river. Lcuy had suggested it to us. Well, let me say it is different from the ITC Sonar… The entrance is behind a cement wall, but within that wall a few families live with their cows in rustic surroundings. We were greeted by name and shown to our very decently sized room (#20) on the second floor (walkup). At best this is a 2* but it meets our needs. The bath is large but had no water when we arrived except for a large puddle, which then caused mud from my shoes to track all over the tile floor. We overcame that, or at least K did, and she told me to -----. The time was about 4PM and we were being picked up again for the evening "show" at Dashashwanmedh Ghat (the main/central ghat at 5. Before we left we went to the roof restaurant and had some dal and vegetable fried rice and some naan bread.
When the driver returned he brought our guide with him. He is 35 and very personable with good English and good descriptions. He is: Chanchal Maurya, a licensed guide, who is available occasionally for private work ([email protected] or 0091-9415266141). We would highly recommend him.
After our arrival near to the ghat, we had to walk about 1/3 miles down the access road, past tons of milling people, beggars, vendors, shops, sellers of everything under the sun, old ladies, crippled people, etc. to reach the ghat (steps down to the holy Ganges River). It was all quite the spectacle. We took tons of pics, walked around a bit, and then hired a boat for the evening (100 Rs. Each--$4, plus tip). There were what seemed like hundreds of boats of all sizes. Ours was wood and about 5 feet abeam and perhaps 20+ feet long. It had one plastic chair and a couple of benches with a thin foam cushion. Dusk had arrived. We were rowed up river a ways, past craig's guest house to the site of the on going cremations. There were 12 going on when we arrived and they were lines up waiting corpses, which are "clensed" in the river, before being arranged for cremation.. The whole cremation saga is a long one and I won't go into it. The eldest son, has his head shaved, and then officiates at the ceremony which is attended only by the males of the family. We found this a highlight of our trip thus far.
Following this we returned to the main ghat where boats had begun to tie up together for the evening music show (K loved it, I was bored---think bells ringing and fire being swung around in various vessels by 7 or 9 guys on a platform—oh yes chanting too). Our rower had placed us directly in the center, next to a large empty boat. Young men and women climbed barefooted from one boat to another selling floating candle vessels for you to float in the water---think krathongs. We did this in Andy's memory.
Following the ceremony, we landed back on the ghat, where bathers had been dousing themselves in the FILTHY junk strewn river along the ghat's edge….. YUCK!!!
Above all of the filth/frenetic energy this is a fantastic place to visit. If you skip it you will have missed something uniquely Indian.
We returned to the hotel for a bit of dinner on the rooftop restaurant overlooking the ganges. We could see the fires in the distance. Dinner was Indian and very tasteless and uninspiring, but sufficient.
We were in bed by 9:30 for our 5:15 wakeup call.
Thursday Nov 3
I woke up about 4:45 and got up. Still uncertain about the shower/tub, etc… we passed. We dressed and went down to wait for our guide and driver. They arrived right on time and we were off to the main ghat again. This time we were able to drive right to the ghat.
We found our same boat driver (rower) after taking tons of pics of the bathers, freaks, families and general scene. We were rowed down about ½ way to assi ghat, past tons of local and religious bathers/worshippers, and past men beating washing against large rocks and then spreading it out to dry on the flat stone areas adjacent to the ghats. It was quite the morning ceremony. Rowing back up the river was very difficult against the swift current. K reminds me that we did the krathong this AM, not last night. Over our shoulders, the huge red sun began to rise and light filled the river basin. Even more people arrived.
After the boat ride we strolled some of the small lanes around the ghat. We eventually came to the area of the Golden Temple, which non-believers cannot visit, but we saw the gold stuppa top. There is lots of security in this area. No photos or electronic eqpt are allowed in the area. I was body searched. We had stopped in a small oil shop just prior to arriving in this area. We left our electronics with our guide and a shop assistant took us near to the temple. I loved walking in the lanes, but would not waste the time to "see" the temple. Upon our return to the shop we were given a demo of the various oils which will cure everything naturally. We bought nothing, but it was interesting.
We returned to the hotel for one hour for breakfast: crepes and honey with cutup bananas and toast and jam for us, plus water and tea/coffee… very good.
We reboarded our SUV and headed for a series of temples. We passed thru the huge Banaras University campus…. I stayed in the car for most of the temple visits, but K and the guide visited: New Shiva Temple (everyone can go inside this temple), Durg Temple and others. We drove north to Sarnath, the location of Buddha's first sermon and the ruins of a monastery, a museum, and a large stuppa.
K had asked to visit a non-commercial silk merchant, for which Varanasi is known. We were taken to an unsigned compound and had a demo of hand silk weaving, followed by an hour in the showroom. We were the only people there K liked the quality, but much of the merchandise was not our style, but she did manage to spend $300. I SILKS, Cantonment. www.isilks.com. Prices from $10-1000+. Watch your final bill as I believed we were overcharged because I was no paying attention. We would gladly shop there again.
After this, we returned to the hotel… I tipped them both as we are on our own tomorrow. As often happens the electricity went off shortly thereafter, so no internet till later. We went up to the roof and I typed this into Word, and K read her kindle.
About 6ish we headed up the road to the Hyfia Restaurant, inside a hotel of the same name—a 2 minute walk. We were rewarded with a delicious meal: egg curry (hard boiled egg in a curry sauce, mashed potato croquette with a sweet cashew sauce, palak paneer (creamed spinach with cheese cubes), white rice and shalom cookie/vanilla ice cream with choc. sauce. All delicious--- 588 Rs, $12.
More internet, then bed…
Quiet day tomorrow..
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now a fresh good jelly donut--almost impossible to find anymore--- is always welcome
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How did you enjoy sarnath? We missed that site. Glad to hear we missed nothing special by passing on the golden temple. I loved the pander dishes we ate while in India. I'm surprised to hear about the power issues. We did not experience that at the ramesh guest house - palace on the Ganges. Keep your report coming.
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I'm reading your report and enjoying it. As you know this is as close to India that I will ever get. If I even mention a possible trip to India my wife will no doubt proceed with divorce proceedings!
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I'm glad you enjoyed Varanasi. You'll see something similar in Nepal at Pashupatinath.
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Billy - never say never...that's what my husband told me and somehow we managed to go to India this year. You've got to wean them there. We went first to Thailand/Cambodia then to vn. What my husband enjoyed most was the foreign nature of those trips and that's how I somehow convinced him to go to India. Of course india isn't for everyone, but he sure thought it one of our most interesting trips. For an entire year before going, my DH played his guitar making up songs that all ended in the same common verse "don't take me to India"!!!
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Sorry...that would be BillT - that darn auto correct on the iphone!
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bill, olive may be right...
there are huge bathrooms here, but we have water on the floor and an unusable shower about 2 feet from the toilet. I will try the tub with no shower curtain today. No makeup mirrors either...
june you missed nothing... even K said so.... the action is on the ghats, in the boats and along the narrow lanes.. i stepped in a 'pie' today. even vermont doesn't have this many cows.
i do not see any meat stores here, so i am investing in a meat franchise here---minimum investment $5,000,000. send certified checks.
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why does the shower not work? I don't get the picture. I know I would give the toilet a shower while taking mine if that was the problem and who cares about adding to the wet floors anyway right?
great way to start your day stepping in a pie.....comforting....India....au contrare.
more more and find that jelly doughnut somewhere in India, there is one with your name on it.
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Could I ask a boring question - what's the weather like in Varanasi now? We'll be there next week. Still trying to pack. Upper 80s?
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Bob - you are sooooo right! Keep the reports coming I am enjoying them!
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Checks in the mail. So, are you enjoying Varanasi? I can't really tell from your report. Remember, you've gotta look down as you walk in India. Sounds like the palace on the river was the right way to go as long as one is able to get a softer bed. I think we had a squegee (sp?) in our bathroom and everytime we showered I had to push the water toward the drain.
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Glad you enjoyed the Haifa restaurant, try the thali's they're great. and if you fancy a beer that's where they serve it in a teapot.
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When we were in Varanasi, four or five years ago, we did not stay on the ghats for the very reasons Bob mentioned. We wanted a 4 star hotel where the electricity worked and the bathrooms were modern. We did have to travel 30 minutes by tuk tuk to reach the ghats. We spent a lot of time on boats and on foot in the ghat area, but were happy to leave the area after the nightime ceremony (I think it is called Arti) and return to the ghats the next morning for our morning boat ride. In between, we ate and slept in a modern, first class hotel.
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bathroom--- large L-shaped room... tub with hand held device---fine... sink fine... to the left of the sink above waist level a large bathtub skicket and controls, under which was a large plastic bucket on wheels.... above that and slightly to the left was a shower head and controls... and just 1 foot to the left was the toilet in the corner... the whole thing turned me off... plus the small water leak next to the toilet... plus the puddle in the corner... plus the fact that no one told us we had to turn the hot water on... a failure was this whole bathroom.
bed was very comfortablr, but we each had a single top sheet and the blankets in the closet were like heavy winter blankets.. room was nice and we could see the river from our bedroom and shared balcony.
This hotel experience was a bit of a failure, but we survived. $70 per night.
we asked haifa again last night about beer and were told no, after a pause. we did get one later at palace on the ganges almost next to our hotel.
we did enjoy varanasi, K more than me. I am just an old crank. It is a must on any india visit.
weather---it could not have been better--75-82 F, overcast to sunny...hazy in the AM (fog/smog)....perfect for us... we kept the a/c on between 19 and 25 C depending on what we were doing.
i think we would try the palace on the ganges another time for an extra $30+/night. did not see their rooms however.
another segment is almost typed.
off to kathmandu in the AM.... Courtyard by marriott in gurgaon is fabulous and about 1/2 hour to airport.
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Bob, you just don't sound as 'happy' as you do when you are in Thailand or Bali or.....
Anyway, keep the report coming.
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Friday Nov 4
This is a day on our own… just to relax a bit and take in the riverside around Assi Ghat.
We took our breakfast on the roof again: jam toast, honey and banana crepe, coffee/tea and cold water. After eating we just lazed around on the roof talking with a young English couple, from London, who we had met.
We took a walk down to Assi Ghat, looked around, spoke to several touts and kids---took a ton of pictures. I visited a local barber shop and a café with lots of men sitting around.
Walking back by the hotel we met Chris and Vikki, the Brits, who were venturing out. Along the way we were joined by a young tout who we were unable to ditch. We told him we were not paying him… He showed us the way and stayed with us. We joined them on their way to the monkey temple… it was pretty warm so I chose to ride a cyclo bike. My peddler was a 15 y.o. frail kid, but he managed.
First we visited the Durg Temple, then we walked to the nearby small monkey temple. We were amazed to see that a drum and some bells were mechanically played/rung, as well as some hand rung bells. It was quite loud.
From there K & I had separate cyclos back to our hotel area where we were dropped off at a small silk shop-- thank you mr tout.
It was actually quite fun… Chris and V were already there sitting on the small cloth covered floor. So in this small area there were the 4 of us, the tout, the owner, 2 silk helpers and at the door, the father, I am guessing. They began to throw out silk items between us. More and more. K immediately judged them to be poor quality and short (scarfs) in length. Chris told him they were worth 50 Rs only. They asked 650.
Finally Chris stood up and we were out of there.
We returned to the hotel and had coke/fanta and grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches on the roof. We returned to the room, where K did kindle and I napped in my chair. Later we did some internet.
C & V joined us at 7 for dinner at the Haifa hotel just up the road. We asked about beers and the waiter went away and checked with someone and came back and said no. We had some delicious dishes, quite similar to the night before---$13.
We really wanted a beer and decided to try the Palace on Ganges hotel and sure enough they serve beer in their basement dining room. About $4 for large kingfisher beer. There was a trio playing Indian instruments as well.
The public rooms of the hotel are all quite nice, almost lux with lovely B&W photos of Varanasi and various decorative arts.
Back to the hotel and a good sleep.
The electricity went out at various times during the day and evening. Most hotels have generators that run some lights. Our hotel also had huge batteries. After dark when the lights go out, the streets are quite dark except for candles in some shops and on vendor's carts. If it wasn't India you would think it quite festive.
We are liking our visit, but as I always say India is a real challenge to visit. We are so glad that we have extra assistance from reps from Castle and King which includes some airport pickups. C & V told us that they had already been deceived by 2 taxi drivers when trying to get to their hotels from airports---"the hotel is full and you need to try another one…"
Saturday Nov 5
We were being picked up at 10:30 for our 1405 flight to Delhi. We had a leisurely breakfast up on the roof and finished packing. I paid the remainder of my bill and we were on our way. C & V were just leaving for the airport so I offered them a ride with us. They accepted. They really should have left at least an hour earlier.
Traffic was very very heavy and it took us an hour and ½ to get to the airport. Had their plane to kathmandu not been delayed they would have missed it. We were plenty early.
Security was quite heavy again. We checked in swiftly and took seats in the lobby awaiting an invitation to proceed to security (separate lines again). Make sure that as you leave security that they stamp the tag on your carry-on or you will be sent back from the departure door.
We had a long walk across the tarmac to our airbus 330. We were in the 4th row of economy (aisle and middle). Our Kingfisher seats were very comfortable with plenty of leg room. During the 65 minute flight a very fresh chicken or veggie sandwich was served with bottled water. We arrived at the new terminal 3 at New Delhi----finally a decent airport---quite lovely.
The Castle and King rep was waiting for us outside baggage claim. We had to walk quite a ways to the new 5 story parking garage where our driver, Krishner, was waiting for us. He will be our driver too when we return next week for our road trip. He is a nice man. We will enjoy him, I can tell already.
We drove to Gurgaon, a new business/hotel district not far from the airport. We found the Marriott Courtyard after having to call the hotel for directions. The hotel is very nice and is similar to any 4* Marriott.
After leaving our stuff in our room, we went up to the 15th floor to the executive club for a snack and drinks. My platinum status helped for upgrades here. We ended up talking to an interesting guy from Ohio who sells eqpt. in Africa/Asia and India. Later we spoke in depth to an Indian/American who is trying to set up cancer treatment centers in India.
We had a couple of drinks and some goodies. Later we ordered room service from our room: bacon, cheeseburgers and fries…. YUM!!!
Bed followed.
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Bob- You are so right about India being a challenge. I too said we would not go back after our first trip, but after 5 years I am planning another trip to India for next for year. BTW, I really loved looking at my photos of India, after returning home. They were a lovely reminder of our trip...minus the challenges encountered in India. I am looking forward to the rest of your report.
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Bob- All the hotels in Varanasi are pretty poor. The goal is to get one that is decent, and since yours had a good bed, a view of the river, and not too many stairs, your hotel was darn tootin' good!!
(thanks Lori!)
The bathrooms are always that "showerhead on the wall" type that leave the floor and toilet wet. I've learned to get an extra towl and use it as a floor mat outside the bathroom door
Yes, India certainly is a challenge. Only the strong survive. Only the adventurous go back again. Only the crazy go back for a month at one stretch...
I'm enjoying your report!
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Terminal 3 at the Delhi airport is a real surprise, it seems that almost everything is still open at 4:30 in the morning. Transitting it has become much easier, no transit visa required anymore.
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Bob, Muffin said I have zero. Hance of getting him to India, so either I go solo or with a pal... Ahhh the dilemmas in life, although to be honest India is not high up my list....
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Bob- keep the reports coming I'm enjoying hearing about the "challenges" that always seems to be a part of a trip to India. For us- when we vacation - we would rather avoid any challenges. We want to be pampered- no roughing it, no surprises!
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Just reading and trying not to laugh too much (just kidding) - I am looking forward more than ever to you and K sharing your experiences with Smeagol, David, Jeane and I in NYC in December.
Nicky, I am going to personally make a pitch to David to travel to India with you - I am sure that will make a great first impression...
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david would last about 5 minutes here before he blew his top and stormed back to the airport---someone has to set the standard and i can't think of a better person to do it!
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All in all, Bob, you are enjoying your trip...it appears!
When we travel, it's always a trade-off between staying in the old city, right in the thick of things and putting up with B&B's, small hotels etc with various levels of upkeep OR going for the modern hotels but slightly outside the main hubbub of the old city. Most of the time we put up with the small hotels in the old part of the city....and then, take a day or two off to stay in a modern hotel....usually a chain just to calm the nerves. This we do all over the world, Europe included. Hopefully, you will have better luck when you check into a heritage hotel sometime in your trip.
And now you have been to, perhaps, the one continuously occupied oldest city (Varanasi) and seen an orthodox pilgrimage city. You deserve to get a certificate saying "I survived Varanasi". M & I are adding Varanasi on our next trip to India, perhaps next year.
Waiting for the next segment...Kathmandu, I believe.
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Mag---take a look at palace on ganges for your varanasi stay.
more $$ but worth it.
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Sunday Nov 6
Even though we were in a fantastic Marriott Courtyard, more like a JW, I did not sleep all that well. We did love the hotel.
Saturday night we talked to two different men in the club lounge: one a nice guy from Indiana who sells systems in India, Africa, and S. American and another Indian American who is working on setting up cancer clinics in India. Maybe I am repeating myself??
We had nice drinks and hors in the club. Later we had Marriott burgers in our room. We never have room service.
This morning our pick-up was at 10:30 for our flight on jet airways to Kathmandu, Nepal. The drive to the airport was only 20 minutes. Check-in and security were very swift. Luckily we got a ride to our gate, #9, because it must have been ½ mile and there were only a few walking sidewalks in this wing.
The flight loaded quickly but late. We were seated in an exit row and I was told I could not sit there as I require a seat belt extender (for fat people). Eventually I moved further forward to an aisle seat and a free middle seat. I was surrounded by ladies going to Nepal with habitat for humanity. I had a nice conversation with two of them. K stayed in her exit row seat and had the whole row. We had been told the flight was oversold.
We had to circle KTH for perhaps 20 minutes as traffic was heavy. The landing was fast and the plane lurched to the left and I thought we might turn over. It was a bus gate. We already had our visas so we were about 5th in line while about 300+ others stood in the visa on arrival line. The airport is very old.
Getting the luggage was a cartoon for sure. Belts are way overtaxed and stopped a few times. There were 2 or 3 flights at the same time in a small area. The floor was strewn with huge suitcases. Think trekking eqpt.
We had trouble finding our driver, but eventually an unshaven man held up a hyatt sign. Instead of getting into a nice hyatt van we were put in a scruffy old mini wagon. We sort of felt like we were being kidnapped. The sign holder eventually talked to us a bit and we relaxed. I let the hotel have it when we arrived. We will see if they adjust the price.
The hotel is quite attractive on the outside and the rooms have a colonial feel about them. I am paying with points or free stays. We are on the club floor and its drink time. TTFN.
Drinks and hors were good, especially the French Himalayan cheese.
We are trying the Med restaurant tonight.
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Waiting for more. Get out of the hotel and explore for us! I especially want to know how different Nepal is from India and if it is worth visiting if one doesn't plan on doing a great deal of trekking.
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Definitely worth visiting if you don't trek. Did you read my TR from last year? Less hassle than India.
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Loving your report - thanks for the weather update.
We'll be on an escorted tour so it will be different than what you're experiencing. We usually prefer something along the lines of what you're doing - some days on our own, some of it with a hired driver or guide for part of the day. Wondering if fodorites would be interested in hearing how a group tour actually is vs. DIY. There might be value in letting people feel superior in their independent travel - not stuck with a bunch of tourons in a herd
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You were charged for your Hyatt airport transfer? When we were there it was free, and they used a hotel van. There were probably half a dozen of us in the van.
I'll be interested in your impressions of Kathmandu as you are coming from India.
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It is late morning now and we spent 1 hour waiting for the travel agent in the lobby to help us and 10 minutes booking 2 1/2 day tours. $70 each day in private car with guide.
we plan to go out shortly and wander around and drop off laundry near the big stuppa as a shirt washed in the hotel is almost $6.
The main circular road we drove in on yesterday was very dusty and heavily polluted. There were many shops along the road and a few markets. The Hyatt is an oasis in the city about 1.5 miles from the city center. This is an hotel for westerners. In general i think this place may be cleaner than india, but far more dusty. Thus far the people are very lovely and friendly, just as in india. I think the chaos here is different from indian chaos.
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Monday Nov 7
Decent breakfast, then spent some time with the travel agent in the lobby, although 2 hotel employees had already approached us about tour plans. We settled on two 3 hour tours, one tomorrow at 10 to Bhaktapur, and one the next day at 11 for a tour of Patan and Kathmandu Dunbar Squares, where we may return on our own on our last day along with a visit to Tammel. $70 each day with guide and car.
We caught up on a few things in the room and about 11 headed out with our laundry to the main street. We walked right by it and had to double back. Stuff takes 2 days. About $6 for a ton.
It was just a short walk down to the main gate to the large stuppa. We paid our 150 ($1.75) each to get in, and the stuppa and allied activity were fun and interesting. Lots of tourist and some nice shops ring the stuppa, as well as many roof top restaurants.
We looked with much interest at "singing bowls" but have not bought one yet. They are alms type bowls made of 7 metals and when rubbed properly vibrate and "sing".
We stopped at a roof top restaurant about 1 for some momo—chicken dumplings. It was fantastic overlooking the stuppa and the square from the roof top. We visited a really nice antique furniture shop in the same building---the chest I wanted was $200 (without any bargaining), but $500 to ship.
We walked more and then headed away from the stuppa becoming a bit lost. We asked for some directions and finally took a cab, about the size of a skateboard, back to the hyatt. There are two prices here, local and foreigner. For the taxi I paid 200 and a local would pay 50-70.
K is currently ironing on a doll's ironing board and I am doing internet, as the sun begins to decline.
BTW, today we can see some large hills out of our room window. The smog causes us to cough a lot.
Another update…. The alleys and streets we were on today were in far better repair than in India, and we saw very little trash around. People use their horns here too but not as much as India. Having said that, I do feel that India is more colorful. There are way fewer beggers too. People seem cleaner here as well. Lots of ethnic outfits here as well, but most people have western dress. The cars seems older and smaller here and there are way less motorbikes.
Dinner will be in the hotel tonight, a la carte from the main restaurant after drinks and hors in the club.
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Bob and Karen, Thoroughly enjoying your report. Can't wait to see Karen's purchases.
I'm heading to Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan in about 18 months, with maybe a return to India. I'll be interested in hearing more about Katmandu and look forward to your reports when you get back to India and visit Jaisalmer. I missed it and have always regretted not going. Let me know if the regret is worth it : )
Look forward to seeing your photos too!
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Bob, I have just written to Karen about where to buy a singing bowl - Patan. You'll want some time in Patan not only to see the lovely Durbar Square there, but also the fabulous museum located in the old palace. There os a fabulous fair trade handicrafts shop between Patan and Kathmandu that I have recommended to Karen.
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kathie we did reread your trip report last night for some pointers.
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Tuesday Nov 8
We ended up with not needing any dinner last night…
Our driver, and guide (Gangga) were waiting for us at 10 as promised. Gangga is an older man which matches perfectly with my mobility needs. We drove south east to Bhaktapur, about an hours drive. We even got to ride on the so called china highway which china built for them in the 1980's. Traffic was moderately heavy. The sights along the road were interesting as were some of the buildings. Gangga told us the day might be quite clear as we could already see the hills quite well. December and January have the best visibility.
At the entrance to the airport we saw a squad of policemen with battle gear—rifles, shields, helmets, sticks. We were to see more later in the day.
At the end of the road we came to a large gate and this is the entrance to the world heritage site, one of the best preserved and most authentic looking ones we have visited. Entrance fee was 1100 Rs each ($13.75)….
Immediately after passing through the gate your eyes feast on many fantastic buildings, shrines and decoration. This is a living agricultural town where people live along side the tourists. It goes on and on. There are tons of small shrines, and many big ones too. There are large animal sculptures lining stairways going up to the tops of shrines. There are muslim holy places, we could not go, but we could look in.
The wood and stone carvings are unreal and very intricate. Some are exotic/pornographic and some are very religious. Some depict daily life and farming.
The town is famous for many things but its carved windows are especially popular. They are intricate for sure. Many reproductions are available and I am considering one, just as Kathie did in 2008. Pottery, especially black pottery, is thrown here, primarily by people who do not own land.
The town is full of shops selling both junk and high quality items. K bought a very nice red pashmina for $85—he started at $200. She feels she paid a decent price--$50 would have been better. It is amazingly warm and very thin… it can pass through one of her rings—a demo the shops like to perform.
We visited the chicken market, we saw lots of rice being combed over on the street while it dried on mats. I took a ton of pics of people---they were about 95% willing.
We saw the famous religious paintings which are done in B..
Everywhere you look there are carved items... The detail is amazing. The 55 window palace, renovated in the 1980's is amazing. The royal baths with the fantastic animal spickets were dramatic as was the bath itself … We saw a golden gate, a peacock window, tons of shrines and very friendly people. Of course they all love a fat man.
This is one of the best ½ days we have ever spent. We look forward to Patan tomorrow.
The late afternoon was spent in the lounge over cookies and cold drinks, and later in our room peering out the windows at the hills and snow caped mountains as well as the large stuppa with its gleaming gold top.
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Now I'm hearing enthusiasm. Wasn't sure you felt the same in Varanasi. "one of the beat days we have ever spent" makes me want to pack my bags!
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sorry if anyone read negetive into my report... i found the ghats an interesting experience, but honestly the rest i could have done without, esp the hotel i chose--- it was ok, but our bathroom was not up to par.
we are loving it here even though the arrival situation was not the best.
after so many asian journeys our bar is very high.
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Bob, I'm so glad Bhaktapur was such a success. I hope you enjoy Patan as well. And I'll be interested in your reaction to Pashupatinath so soon after Varanasi.
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Interesting report..You did sound a little negative about India to the point where I had decided to cross it off my list. Glad things are picking up for you and Karen now..
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So exciting you can see the see the snow capped mountains...we couldn't...too much smog. We spent time in the Hyatt pool, the small pool is heated.
I guess we will never go to India since I felt Kathmandu was as "India" as I liked.
Are the city lights out in the evening now? We were told that was just during the dry season, but I have doubts.
Glad you like Kath.
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Glad to hear you are enjoying the trip and I had misread into it. I'm looking forward to the rest of your report.
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Bob, don't dwell on your hotel in Vananasi. Consider it a good story.
I stayed at the Taj in Varanasi (don't BOO purists : ) . I was traveling with my usual traveling companion. when they showed us the first room, it was quite lovely, recently renovated, but there was a king bed and we had requested two beds. So, they said they would "upgrade us" to another room. When we got to our "new" room, I cracked up. It hadn't been touched since the Raj, but is was massive. Three huge rooms--looking like your grandmother's attic. My favorite thing was the blue bathroom with the bright fire-engine red toilet. So much for the upgrade.
The best part was being stuck in the elevator for nearly an hour.
I would have much preferred a ghat hotel where I wasn't lulled into an elevator in "electricity optional" India : )
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a red toilet is certainly an upgrade!! how often have you had a red toilet?? think about it..
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DH and I once had a room (in a very remote mountain area in Colorado) that had a freshly PAINTED bathtub! It was white, not read... but I got paint on the bottoms of my feet. Yuk!
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...not RED... (I was using the shower, not sitting in the tub, thank goodness)
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Keep it coming, so enjoying this.
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Thinks we should make a thread "Horrible hotel experiences to remember"
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... yep, I've got a few stories...
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I loved Varanasi...The colors in the morning from the saris, even they towles the bathers used in the AM. Then you add the rising sun and the glow it put on every thing thru the haze/smog. How many people they could cram into a tuk-tuk or on a bike? Something to see every where. The funeral Ghats and the whole process over there was so interesting. The hotel was not that bad either.
The old building here in Nepal are beautiful. I am loving the contrast of the dark wood and the brick. The detail of the carvings, be they wood or stone. People watching is so enjoyable, and every one has to have a chat with Bob, if not their picture taken with him.
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Bob, there is no need for a bathroom when you could have just done what the locals do and bathe (and do other things) in that pristine river!!!
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Bob, how could I have missed this report?? I guess I haven't been on Fodor's much lately, but I'm all caught up now!
Keep it coming!
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Wednesday Nov 9
Negetive Bob reporting in… I can't help it if you and my wife don't tell the absolute truth.
Seems we had our watches wrong again. We were late for our guide at 11. No matter after an apology.
We set off in the same direction again heading to Patan, another world heritage site. Ganga claims this is his favorite area. Traffic is quite heavy again---you have to allow about an hour to get to most places from the Hyatt. But, we think that the Hyatt is the place to stay---think quiet.
Upon entering the main square area you are bombarded with ancient buildings. Entrance fee 200 Rs each. The carving is sensational. We are told the wood is called iron wood, and that the carving is original dating back as far as the 1500's. There is a palace of the king, now a wonderful museum, and a palace of the queen, currently being renovated, but we did go into its main courtyard where the carving is unbelievable…
We walked around the town quite a bit. We visited a wood carving shop and bought one of the carved windows he had created. For hand carved items, they were reasonable. We also visited a Thangka painting school and salesroom. We were shown how they are created with great skill and immense detail. We decided not to buy as our wall space at home is now limited. Our favorites were the ariel view darker colored ones. There are 5 basic styles.
We tried in vain to locate a singing bowl craftsman Kathie has told us about, but we were unable, thus far, to locate him.
We wandered the main square area and many of the side streets of Patan. There are many very nice shops, especially ones selling carved metal (brass and bronze) religious sculptures, plus numerous painting galleries and wood carving also.
Here is the info on our freelance guide: Ganga Kharga; mobil 98412015-98
[email protected] I doubted the address???
He is an older man with good English, a sense of humor, a willingness to walk slowly, a willingness not to fill you full of useless info and a good guide.
After our visit we drove close to thamil and kathmandu squares so that we might see where they are for our return on our own tomorrow.. We also drove by the soccer stadium, down the modern day main shopping area, past the USA embassy compound, past the current pink royal palace, past lots of colleges, and over more bumpy and ill repaired streets before reaching the hotel about 3.
I was a bit unclear about what I wanted to tip each day, but I gave the guide 1000 each day and the driver 500.
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My one regret concerning our trip to Nepal was not buying a singing bowl. We enjoyed our time in Patan and Bhaktapur, but did not have time to visit the monkey temple outside of Khatmandu, which I take from your report that you did not visit either. I was unimpressed with Thamel. Looking forward to your report on your reaction to this area. It is nice to retreat to the Hyatt after a day of crowds and sightseeing. What did you think of the Italian/mediteranean restaurant there?
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our meal in the med rest. was good but expensive for nepal, of course. i had the veggie lasagne which was the size of a hockey puck but not as tall. it tasted good. K had the same.
tonight we ate the general buffet which had a DECENT VARIETY, but other than the tendeloin was underwhelming. $50/2.
K says i can have a singing bowl because you endorse it shelley. I might take it to Joe's.
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Bob, the famous singing bowl maker is near the Durbar square in Patan. Any of the official guides at the Durbar Square will know him. As you enter the area, if you walk past the Palace/Museum and walk until you get to the next small lane, it is off the the left beyond that. Did you stop at the crafts place to shop on your way back to the Hyatt?
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kathie, we asked licensed guides, the officials at the entrances and other shop owners and no one seemed to know him...
thanks for this info... tomorrow we will go to the craft shop.
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Sorry you couldn't find him. He is considered teh "old master" at hand-hammered bowls.
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Bob-If you bring the bowl to Joe's, I'm sure I will have singing bowl envy.
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shelley, is that an entree?
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no bowl yet, even though we looked today. have decided to buy the original one we saw in a shop next to the large pagoda---we really liked that area btw.
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"large pagoda" Bob, are you referring to Boudnath, the Buddhist stupa near the Hyatt? That is a nice area, and we visited the stupa a number of times during our stay.
Have you been to Pashupatinath yet? It's not far from Boudnath. We walked - it's all down hill - but you could take a taxi.
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of course this is what i meant.... when i typed that i knew it was wrong but i was hacking and just trying to type....
next update tomorrow.
we wont make it to P this time, even though you praised it.
the way i feel tonight i could just jump on a pile of wood and light it.
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Are you sick or cold?
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Sorry you aren't feeling well, Bob. I hope Karen got to do some shopping.
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Hope you feel better Bob. In the meantime stay indoors and give Karen the wallet and money.....she knows what to do.
Waiting for more and enjoying your report.
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Kathie, I had to laugh at your post sorry that Bob isn't feeling too well but as long as Karen gets the shopping done thats the important thing. LOL
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thanks, i feel much better today. i may still have left over thai cold symptoms.
after touring yesterday i had aches, then i got cold for no reason....Then i had 3 cups of black tea and some cookies and viola i felt much better... i really was fine by dinner.
Thursday Nov 10
First a note about electrical adapters. Here at the Hyatt they use the new British type adapter, the 3 prong flat rectangular plugs arranged in a triangle. Electrical service was good here except when we first arrived when it went on and off a bit in the late afternoon.
We have been very happy with our choice of the Hyatt. While it is at the opposite end of town from the major sites except the large stuppa (which is a 5 minute walk outside the back gate) we feel it is the best place to be. Club floor privileges are a real benefit with free breakfasts, a lovely quiet club lounge on floor 6 with a view of the pool and large stuppa, free drinks, hors each night, and a staff to help with your needs.
The goals for today were to visit the Durbar Square in Kathmandu and a visit to the wild shopping area of Thamel. We decided to take a taxi to Durbar. The car was small but comfortable enough. The doorman told me the rate should be 400-500 Rs. After we told the driver what we wanted he quoted 400, then added he would wait for us for 800. I then asked about combining Thamel with waiting time and he said 2500 or about $31. Perfect. This would take most of the day.
Let me speak to the streets. Not great. According to the drivers, corruption keeps the government from filling holes and patching them and seem to have a hands off attitude. The people do not seem happy with the current "democratic" government and certainly blame the last king (youngest of the brothers) and his son for the murder of the royal family a few years ago. I will say that as for a tourist, things are stable here. There has been huge inflation.
Durbar Square: We judge this to be the least interesting and attractive of the 3 major places we visited. The main palace, a huge white stone building, almost feels out of place. The Kumari House, official home of a young girl between age 3 and puberty, who is considered to be a living incarnation of the goddess Taleju, was interesting and ornate. It is directly opposite the palace. Btw, there is another older section of the palace, in the next square, Durbar is actually a series of squares, which contains a good museum.
There are many pagoda style buildings scattered throughout. We found this square to be more commercial and less interesting than Patan and Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur being our favorite closely followed by Patan. I would not visit here without visiting the stuppa at Boudha, Bhaktapur, Kathmandu square, and Patan.
Thamel was by far the least interesting place for us to visit. While we love shopping, the only focus of this area, this place is overload. Most of the shops seem to be crammed full of tourist merchandise and clothing. It held no interest for us other than the fair trade small mall we visited called Deva Mall, run by the Handicrafts Association of Nepal on Narsingh Chowk. Artisans rotate each 90 days. Karen bought a number of silver items, rings and bracelets as well as two hand made paper books and several greeting cards.
After our visit there the driver took us back to Paten to the industrial park to visit a "craft" store. I should have known it, but this is one of those tourist "bus" shops. A shop that sells everything. WE did not like this visit.
On our way back to the hotel we were driven through a local neighborhood which was very interesting. We ended up at Snow White laundry where we had left 2 weeks dirty clothes a few days before--$6. it is roughly opposite the main gate to Boudha. Back to the hotel and I gave the driver 3000 Rs and he asked for an additional 500 which I was glad to give as he had added on the paten stop and had walked with us the whole time giving limited commentary..
Drinks in the club and then we both needed a simple dinner as our stomachs were speaking to us. We went to ROX, the Med restaurant, and had plain grilled chicken with mashed pots… PERFECT.
Its Friday morning now and we will leave for the airport about 12:30 for our flight back to Delhi. We hope we will have no problem re-entering India.
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Great commentary. We will certainly consider putting Kathmandu back on our to-do list.
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i think you would like about 4-5 days there on your way to bhutan. we saw a 2 prop bhutan airways plane at ktm this afternoon.
june we got a fab singing bowl this morning. it is one of the so-called full moon variety---hammered by the light of the full moon... well maybe. $100.
we are back in delhi---no problems reentering in less than 60 days---not even a question. In case i did not say it clearly earlier, the new terminal 3 at delhi is world class.
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Good to know that you were able to return to India as I'm anxious to hear the rest of your trip report. I looked those bowls up on line and they look beautiful.
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Bob, ideally we'd have 4 weeks in the Himalayas and do Kathmandu, Sikkim and Bhutan. But we don't. At least not now. Bhutan will occupy 12-13 days and we will have a day or two in Bangkok as well. So Kathmandu (and Sikkim, for that matter) will have to wait...
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not a problem, priorities
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Did you do an Everest sightsee tour by plane....can't remember if you wrote about it. Ofcourse, it's contingent on clear weather.
Good report...keep it coming.
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mag---K would have nothing to do with these small plane flights---besides Everest has been fogged in for over a week with hundreds stranded...
Friday Nov 11
After breakfast we left the hotel thru the rear gate, which leads out directly to a charming road/alleyway which eventually enters the rear of the B stuppa square (round). The walk is perhaps 10 minutes at most. Along the walkway are several guesthouses and shops. Here you will find some everyday life of K.
Our quest for the morning was a singing bowl. We had visited The Singing Bowl Center on our first day but we had no comparison of quality and price, so it became our benchmark. We were quoted $155 for the one we liked. The shop is 8-10 shops to the left after entering the circular from the main gateway.
Santa Ratna Shakya and his younger brother run this shop and their family produces the hand hammered bowls in Patan. Santa comes annually to Colorado to conduct healing classes using the bowls and to give concerts in the month of August. We had a nice chat with Santa who we had not met before and he called his brother to come and continue the sale. BTW, they also arrange classes in K. After further discussion and comparison we purchased our original bowl, which luckily had not been sold.
It is 8-9" in diameter, fits in my carryon perfectly, has a lovely darkish hammered patina and is engraved with several words on one side and a round insignia on the other. These identify it as a "full moon" bowl---one which was crafted during a full moon. We were quoted 8000 Rs ($100) for the bowl and 2 sticks, one big for the gong effect, and one small for the singing effect. I did not bargain at all as this was 1/3 less than I had been quoted 2 days before and I felt it was very reasonable for this quality. We also bought a green silk pillow for the bowl to sit on for display (200 Rs). We were delighted. Neither of their credit machines would work with any of the cards I had (6), so K walked to a nearby ATM and got some more cash. None of our cards have chips.
We took a taxi back to the hotel (lazy me) and quickly finished our packing to be ready for our 12:30 departure. We were informed the van had been delayed and after 15 minutes we were offered a private car to the airport, which we accepted, and it was a good thing we did. About ¾ of a mile up the road, the traffic on the other side was at a standstill. There were lots of police in riot gear and one street was closed, thus snarling traffic.
We arrived at this old and dirty airport and began an unbelievable security check. We were first checked upon entry to the building—long wait… next we were checked to enter the check in area—long wait…. Then our bags were put thru an xray machine—no wait… next were 3 very long and confusing checkin lines—very long wait…next was another checkin to enter the waiting area, no wait… then a further check, and then we waited in the first boarding waiting room… then the flight was called, but they were not ready—another 10 min… then a further personal check and pat-down before leaving the building to get on the bus, AND finally an airline check on a platform outside the plane, including a carryon bag search, and then a document check and FINALLY the final check ½ way up the stairway of your boarding pass.
We had aisle seats in back of each other. I was offered the rear row to myself to be more comfortable which I took. The flight was quick and K got to see lots of white mountain tops from her seat. Arrival back in delhi is a pleasure because of the way they have the rooms set up. Easy exit and reentry back into India with no visa questions at all about our recent departure (5 days ago).
Castle and King's greeter was right there waiting for us and all went well until we hit the Friday late afternoon traffic. What took us 20 minutes 5 days ago, on a Sunday, took over 1.5 hours this day.
We have nothing but praise for the Marriott Courtyard Hotel in Gurgaon, a few miles from the airport. The highrise is newish, modern and very 4*ish. We had club privledges again and quickly headed there for drinks and hors, and then decided to order dinner from the café restaurant menu to be delivered there. I had eggplant parm and K had fish and chips—absolutely the normal things to order in India.
A very good night's sleep in our very comfortable room.
Saturday Nov 12
Krishna, our driver (Lord Krishna to me) came for us exactly at 10. We were headed for Jaipur, 250 kilometers from Delhi, via Neemrana.
We found ourselves in the middle of the "normal" traffic patterns: tons of large trucks, motorbikes, goats, cars, people, tuk tuks, cows---all crisscrossing, U-turning, going in the opposite direction, stopping to let people in or out, changing lanes repeatedly without notice, coming within one inch of you, etc.
About 2 hours out we stopped just outside the gate to Neenrana Fort Palace Hotel at a little silver shop K had visited 6 years ago---Neemrana Silver Craft. His prices are very fair—by weight. The work is created by his father and brother about 50 kilometers away. A bag was filled with silver items---Xmas is coming.
After an hour, we continued our trip to Jaipur for about 2.5+ hours. The further we went the more attractive the countryside became, with big hills framing the valley we drove through. While there were large modern factories along the way, agriculture seemed to dominate. We passed camel driven carts filled with animal food-stuffs and a few elephants also carrying straw. We drove thru a few run down market towns which always were very chaotic.
Finally we arrived in Jaipur. Our Sheraton Four Points seems to be located in a "local" neighborhood, attached to a small dumpy all purpose store.
We were upgraded to the club floor—no club however.
We decided to have dinner in the café where they were having a week long Rajasthan festival. We had the buffet special meal (595 Rs.). Decent enough.
Bed early as we are being picked up at 9 and heading for our elephant ride up to the Fort.
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Bob, I'm so glad to hear your singing bowl story. It's great that you were able to get a hand-crafted bowl - they are so different from the machine made bowls.
It sounds like there must have been a demonstration that snarled traffic on your way to the airport in KTM.
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i gave you only the partial bowl center name. i/s/b: Himalayan Singing Bowl Center
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Hope you are feeling better, Bob. I've not read the last couple of entries you made... It's not fun to be ailing when you are so far from home.
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Oh, the Jewelry of Jaipur! I'm so jealous. I really need to go back and just wander about the jewelry shops.
I am still dreaming of one piece I saw.
A necklace with Cabochon cut beads (huge) of precious stones. Yes, it was expensive, and I probably would have rarely (if ever) worn it, but ahhhhhh, it was gorgeous. Drool.
Now, the elephants. I kept getting scolded by the mahout because we were both sitting on one side (with no one on the other side) and I guess I wasn't sitting back far enough. Like the elephant was going to tip over?
However, we have arrived at the fort just a few weeks after the tour guides had been stomped to death by one of the male elephants so everyone was a bit skittish. Not to worry. They only use girl elephants now.
I hope your stomachs have calmed down and the elephant ride to the top was great.
It sounds like you are having a great time. Keep the details coming.
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Sunday Nov 13
Another bright day overlooking Jaipur from our 7th floor room. It will be an excellent day for some sightseeing around Jaipur today.
I forgot to mention that when we arrived yesterday, we were greeted at the hotel by our guide from 6 years ago—Mahadev Kashana (Dev). With him he had brought a lei for each of us of a fragerant red flower and an arrangement for our table. It was great to see him again. Sunday we would be spending the day with him. Dev is a private guide, with good English and a pleasant personality. He can be contacted at: mahadev_[email protected] or mahadev_[email protected] You would not be disappointed. He specializes in the jaipur region, but does other areas as well I believe.
We met Dev and Krishna outside the front door at 9. We headed across town towards the Amber Fort, the huge complex of buildings built atop a number of hills. On our way we passed the ornate Albert Memorial Building, the Rambaugh Palace and its neighboring palace, the Palace of the Wind (a façade of a building and one of Jaipur's most famous monuments), tons of local markets and shops, camel wagons, a couple of elephants and the famous pink (tera-cotta) buildings of Jaipur's old city.
As we neared the fort, we began to see remnants of the outer buildings and the wall that reminds me of the wall of china stretching over the hills. The closer we got the clearer the elephants transporting tourists up to the main fort came into view. For us this is a highlight of visiting Jaipur. We had done it last time and K especially wanted to repeat it again. We waited less than 10 minutes for our elephant. Getting on is easy from a platform, but staying on in that uncomfortable perch is less easy. In fact it is downright uncomfortable. The ride takes perhaps 20-25 minutes of lurching and swaying. Each elephant is allowed only 5 ascents per day. There was something new this time however. Two NY women were riding the ellie in front of us, who evidently had food which was either too rich or too spicy because it kept pissing, which is a bit like a surprise shower and doing #2 which flies all over your legs and shoes. I yelled at the girls that the red sox will wallop the Yankees after this—no response… They got sprayed too several times.
Krishna picked us up near the top of the hill. We did not want to visit the fort as we had spent 2-3 hours there last time. It is a must see. On our way back to town we stopped to view the lake palace---last time there was no water, this time there is plenty of water.
From there we wanted to visit the city palace complex, the home of the current "king", a 14 year old—the son of the only daughter of the last king. He attends school in England.
This palace encompasses 1/7th of the area of old Jaipur. Many things have been refurbished in the last 6 years. We were able to visit the elaborate room where state business had been conducted prior to 1947—it was closed on our last visit. K visited several other areas which I had no interest in. We again viewed the 2 largest silver jugs ever made, each able to hold 500 litres?? The palace is a very peaceful place to visit, even with the hordes of tourists visiting every day.
While we were resting on a bench, a bronze gate opened next to the king's apartments and out drove the mother of the king in a Honda.
Following our palace visit we stopped to have my memory stick copied to a cd. I had forgotten my additional sticks at home---1500 pics. Ten minutes—150 Rs ($3).
Following this it was lunch time. We returned to a very ordinary restaurant we had eaten at twice on our last visit-- AC Restaurant Maharaja Foods, back on the road to Amber Fort. Krishna took us a back way so we were able to see some more local scenery: milk collection market (both cow and buffalo), local shops, fab veggie stands, etc.
K had white rice and chicken korma and I had a plain chicken soup which I put some rice in, along with the whole egg in the soup. I had a mix your own lime soda and K had coke. 1000 Rs---best of the trip thus far. Plus Naan of course.
After lunch we visited the famous Gem Palace. This shop has been in the same family for 7 generations and its customers range from Princess Diana to Jackie Kennedy to the current titled ladies of the middle east, plus Karen Kimball. The shop was not at all what I expected. It consists of several small rooms of display cabinets, maybe 3, a couple of private offices and sales rooms and nothing more. Faded elegance comes to mind, but plenty of lux still in existence.
Dev had mentioned to our saleswoman (we were the only customers) that K had interest in seeing some of the old creations. She showed us a number of things that ranged from 100-350 years old. First was a series of finely enameled solid gold chest pieces. Next was an enameled full sized bird which was actually a flask that the king could use to drink alachol without others knowing. Next was the 350 yo piece. It was a gold head plate with huge old cut diamonds on it---perhaps 5X7", all set in gold. K looked with interest next at the elaborate new earrings, long dangling. Not her style.
Then I suggested something more practical, like normal earrings. First she tried on a pair of large pearl earring which had a small bezeled emerald mounted on it. They were too heavy for her. Next the saleswoman brought over a simple ear wire with a single whitish aquamarine with a gold bezel and a tiny diamond mounted above it. Perfect… Merry Christmas.
The owner entered our room and I introduced myself. He was very pleasant, mid-50's, and we spent quite a while with him. He took us into the back room where modern master pieces were being developed and just laying around. He told us most are purchased by women from the Gulf.
First was a round box with a pointed top. It was perhaps 5" high and 3" in diameter. The surface was entirely covered with large diamonds. A gift for some person who has everything. Next was a similar round box, this time without a bottom. The sides have a spring from top to bottom and are a diamond encrusted snap cuff bracelet. Next he showed us a wide (3") heavy mesh gold belt with a huge buckle, encrusted with diamonds and a 103 C emerald. It was completely garish.
Lastly he showed us a necklace which K has just redescribed to me which is just to outrageous for me to describe. Come to the Boston GTG to hear about it.
Then he said I have something else to show you. He took us outside into a huge car port to see his vintage cars: a 1956 white Cadillac Convertible, a 1937 Mercedes, a fabulous Studabaker/Packard touring car, a large 194 something green Packard, a rare 1960's English Rover, and a couple more. He maintains a mechanic and a pit on site. WOW!! What fun.
We left after what had to be a unique experience---right up there with Boston Hrb's invite by the Maharaja to a polo match.
I think my sequences are off but it does not matter to the story. Finally we visited a local village just short of the Fort. We saw a woman pumping water in her sari—she covered her face. We walked further into the village and an old man welcomed us after Dev told him we were tourists. We saw quite a few kids and more gathered. We saw a man milking a buffalo and he told dev we should enter from the next gate. Another elder (early 70's) welcomed us. He was wearing a turban and after I took his picture he went and changed his shirt and asked me to retake it. I took pics of the milking and some of the other animals. The turban man offered us a seat, and offered me his water pipe. We sat for a few minutes and then departed.
We encountered the growing kids group. I did not have any candy for them. We did hi and low fives and the older ones used some English. I gave the eldest boy 100 Rs and told him to buy candy for the others.
We headed to the hotel.
Krishna will come back for us at 7 to take us to dinner at Niros.. This is a very nice small restaurant with a good menu, including Indian, Chinese and western dishes. We will go back again.
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Can't wait to hear about the necklace at GTG! There are quite the exodic contraptions in India.
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Monday Nov 14
Standby for a day of shopping…
After breakfast, Krishna picked us up at 10:30. We headed to Anokhi, a charming shop which caters to the western style. Primarily the shop stocks clothing made of cotton. It was K's favorite India shop last trip. BTW, it is no longer housed in the charming one story building of year's past, but moved 4 years ago to the 2nd floor of a modern commercial building, which has ample parking.
K was not disappointed and we spent over an hour there. From there we headed to FabIndia, which is not far away. This is a similar shop, but also sells a fair amount of home decorating goods and furnishings. Both A and FI have shops in major Indian cities. We had been disappointed with the Fab shop we had visited in Delhi 6 years ago, but this shop kept K busy for another hour or so… Her purchases were all cotton wearables, mostly for herself, but they also have men's and silk items.
Next on the list was Hot Pink. This is a designer shop representing a number of young designers. HP is located on the grounds of a lovely old hotel. We did not hold out much hope for K here---and we were right. The designs were quite youthful and wildly expensive---like the cotton coat dress she tried on for $500 which made her look like a bag woman. Next door is a bright home/fashion shop called Aashka which we spent a few minutes in---quite lovely.
From there we headed back to Niros, where we had had dinner last night. K had a rice and kabob plate and I had a grilled chicken sandwich. Fabulous. Right across the street is the famous Lassi Walla, the best in town.
And lastly we headed to Cottons, another cotton shop, which is located next door to the Spice Court Restaurant. We spent at least an hour there too.
With no credit left, we headed back to our hotel. All day traffic had been heavy. In Indian style we had one fender bender with a small red car which raced off, and a man rushing for a bus in the middle traffic lane banged into our hood with his body and motorbike helmet… C'est India… We did not count any near nisses.
Dinner tonight will be at Indiana, a restaurant which we missed on our last trip…
Tomorrow we continue our road trip heading SW to Udaipur, the lake city.
BTW, in discussion today we decided that we do not know how anyone can travel India without a car and driver…. Either you don't do and see anything, are on a bus tour (ugh!!!), or stay in your hotel all the time. Things are so spread out and traffic is so heavy, that attempts at good organization are difficult at best.
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Sounds like Karen got a good shopping workout!
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Wow...what a shopping frenzy!
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You get the Traveler Husband of the Year award. I cannot imagine Mr. Crosscheck even entering one shop with me while on a trip, let alone spending a whole day. I always have to leave him in a food market where he can look at spices and intestines, while I have fifteen minutes to pick something up in the vicinity. And I can never tell him what I really paid.
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Bob- I'm loving your report. Now let me get this straight. You guys paid good money to ride rather uncomfortably an elephant during which you got peeded on and pooped on?
Only in India!
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I'm thinking the jeep ride we took was a wonderful idea.
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Loving your report style....totally agree that you must travel with car and driver in India. Wouldn't do it any other way....besides it's very reasonable. Why bother driving yourself.
Marge just loves riding aroung central Delhi in a tuk tuk. Not a car taxi, but here's the rest of the story. Last year, during construction to put in the metro in central Delhi, we were stuck in a traffic jam at rush hour around Connaught Circus....just trying to go for "chat" to a certain restaurant. However, we had this fabulous driver who weaved in and out of this stopped traffic jam. Tuk tuk ride is like you are on a roller coaster, plus Mr.Sharma (tuk tuk driver)crazy as he was, but safe since traffic was essentially stopped, worked his skill at manuevering in/out of traffic and gave Marge & I a thrilling ride for about 30 minutes going a distance of about 1 mile. We tried to hire him for the rest of the day, but he did not want to go outside the Connaught Circle....he said that's the area he specialises and is not interested in going outside. Oh well!!!
How can one enjoy a tuk tuk ride in heavy stopped traffic? Well, you have to ride with Mr.Sharma. That's all I have to say. I know...we are easy to please. Riding an elephant...now that's another thing.
Glad you are letting K do her version of "shop till u drop". And India is THE best place to do that.
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Elephant Riding - Rule #1 - always get on the lead elephant, otherwise walk away!
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The shopping sounds fabulous. Can't wait to see the bracelet!
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Sounds like Karen is having a great time, and with such wonderful support. "He with the credit cards can't help but be wonderful!"
Love the vicarious living.
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Regarding the Car and driver we didn't book anyone before our arrival and on our 1st morning in Delhi told the concierge we wanted a taxi for the day to explore the city, he haggled for us with a driver outside the entrance and we got a taxi for 700 rupees for the day but we found that we were mainly stuck in traffic and although we did see most of what we had planned we didn't repeat the experience the following day and instead used a tuk tuk for 500 rupees for the day, what a difference; we whizzed past all the taxi's in queues and managed to visit also half of the places planned for our next days visit and realised that this is the way to go in Delhi, some might argue about the smog but we never noticed it in our tuk tuk and our driver doubled up as a guide whereas the taxi driver only drove us to the places so that would be our transport if we ever return to Delhi.
Getting back to Bob and Karen, keep the reports coming, I so look forward to them.
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Try planning to be in Delhi over a weekend. The traffic is much lighter and it is easy to get around in a car. We also love using tuk tuks.
Bob - you are a gem doing all that shopping. Wish I could get my husband to cooperate more. My pictures are my souveneers and a few small trinkets for the family.
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Tuesday Nov 15
We had a decent dinner last night at Indiana. Krushna told us that they had closed recently and 5 guys have just reopened it. We had a wonderful sweetish potato dish, a chicken tikka, a dal dish, white rice, Kingfisher, water, and kulfi for dessert. There is a lame dance show as well, some involving fire. The food was tasty, but not inspired. We sat outside.
Krishna picked us up about 8:30 AM for our long drive to Udaipur, about 6+ hours.
As we left Jaipur the scenery slowly changed to a much more rural setting. Huge factories were along side farms, open space, cotton fields, and lots of green crops which were just beginning to grow. Rolling hills surrounded the flat ground which we drove through.
Lest you think that the traffic patterns are any different outside the city, I can assure you that they are not. Cows everywhere (on the streets/highways, on median strips, sauntering across the highway with no notice or blinker…. Cars coming towards you on the wrong side of the road, even a school bus. Motorbikes racing everywhere. Tuk tuks with as many as 10 people in them cruising along in the passing lane, slowly. Huge and huger trucks in all lanes. I will say, however, that the road service was 98% excellent, some of it brand new.
We made one pit stop and drank water and soda in the car and had fresh oreo's and some other cookies, but no lunch.
I slept quite a bit and K listened to some music, plus we chatted constantly with Lord Krishna.
When we arrived to Udaipur, it was quite obvious that we were in a very different city. It has a totally different feel. For one thing there are a number of lakes, the city seems very clean and organized.
We arrived at our hotel, the Udiapur Sheraton Palace, a little after 3. It is perched on a knoll looking down onto the Fateh Sagar Lake. The building is about 4 years old and is on the exterior a Mughal Palace with turrets, pointed windows, and designed to look all white marble. The grounds are lush green and there are a variety of different garden areas including a decent swimming pool.
The interior strikes me as a bit odd. I am now thinking that the interior may resemble the interior of an ocean liner. The main chandelier is a Chuohli (sp) look alike (hand blown glass) in pink, hanging in an atrium. The marble floors are a gleaming marble and the seating areas are comfortable. The rooms are located down long corridors, some with an atrium in the middle. They are oddly lit. Next comes the club rooms where we were, a continuation of the earlier corridor. They are carpeted, have very dark wooden walls, and even less lighting, except that the room numbers are back-lit on huge glass panels. Our room is the next to the last room.
The room is large, except that the bathroom takes up 1/3 of the room and has two floor to ceiling picture windows in it. It is long and narrow, with tub, hand held shower next to and outside of the tub (totally odd) and a huge rain shower head in a square room at the end where the picture windows are. There are electrically controlled curtains in the shower area. The room has a lovely view out onto the lake and Nehru Park/Island. The closet is two sided with doors opening both into the bathroom and into the entrance hall.
Thus far we are quite pleased. We are staying on Starwood points and cash—2800 pts and $45 per night. Amazing value. We receive breakfast as well.
We strolled around a bit, sat by the pool, checked out the rooftop area where a wedding will be held tonight, checked the limited restaurants (2) and made ourselves at home.
We will eat tonight in the hotel's Indian veggie restaurant. There will be fireworks later celebrating a celeb's birthday and attended by people like Victoria Beckham.
We missed whatever fireworks there might have been, but we did see the search lights in the sky.
We stayed in the hotel for dinner, eating in their north Indian veggie restaurant. We were one of two tables. There was no white wine, which disappointed K, so we had Tuborg which was the coldest available.
K ordered: samosa's, which were a free form salad and very delicious, followed by roasted corn, spinach and tomatoes in yogurt, and dal, plus a birayani (sp). All was delicious. We split a fancy kulfi for dessert.
Wednesday Nov 16
A great night's sleep in our Sheraton bed. Breakfast is included with our room. It is an ok buffet, but nothing special.
The guide and driver were coming for us at 10. We first visited the Crystal Gallery and the Durbar Hall (former throne room) in the City Palace. I was a bit under whelmed with the crystal in all honesty, and I love glass. The Durbar Hall was very nice, with huge chandeliers.
We had a drink in a new enclosed porch area overlooking the lake and the Lake Palace. Within the city palace today is a huge museum, two major hotels and the residence of the current Maharana (67 yo). He has turned his interests and his fortune into the tourism business and his empire runs many hotels, etc. You know he is in residence if the fountain in his courtyard is running or at night a red light is illuminated at the top of a turret, which it was.
From there we entered the area of the museum, where K and the guide spent 1.5 hours. I was very comfortable in the shade in the courtyard. K said it was a bit of a climb, up and down, in and out, but overall was interesting.
From the palace we drove across town to visit the Queen's Garden, an area the women of the court would come to during the afternoon to relax. It is very green with many small areas to sit and several hundred water streams shoot 11 feet in the air. The water was propelled by gravity until 5 years ago when pumps were installed. There is also a large enclosed square swimming pool. The plantings and flowering vines were really nice and the noise of the water drowned out any street noise.
From there we headed back once again into the old city. K and the guide would visit the Jagdish Temple, with its wonderful carvings and black Vishnu image. In this same area our guide, Virendra Singh ([email protected] www.udaihaveliguesthouse.com) runs a guesthouse, and his wife who has a small sari shop. We were very pleased with him and would highly encourage you to use his guide services. The guest house which we visited makes a wonderful backpacker place—private shower and bath… 200-250 Rs.
We bought a very nice sari to give to Krishna for his wife. 1200 Rs. From there we drove around the lake a bit and returned to our hotel.
On Craig's and other's suggestions, we are going at 7:30 to Ambrai, located on the edge of Lake Picchola for dinner.
OMG, what a fabulous place. Getting there can be a bit of a challenge in an SUV, because it is located on the lake and you have to pass thru very narrow and busy streets/lanes. We ordered Kingfisher beer and then K ordered the following: a stuffed potato dish (cashews, cheese and yogurt) cooked in the tandori oven; house special chicken (boneless chicken pieces in a tomato sauce, yogurt, nuts and fruit and decorated with hard boiled eggs), served in a brass charcoal warming dish; and finally whole baby eggplant with herbs cooked until tender. We split a pancake (crepe) filled with fresh banana and pineapple, sugar and chocolate sauce. The best part was the price 1600+ Rs.
Our lakeside table looked directly across at the Lake Palace and the City Palace, both of which glimmered from the lights, fire torches and water. The haveli looks fantastic too---Amet Haveli. I would investigate staying there another time.
This is a lovely city and near the top of our list of places to visit. We are undoubtedly missing a great deal, as we are not strolling the lanes and back roads. For us, there is a limit to what you can do.
BTW, we do not have free internet that is why the reports are sporadic.
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So glad you and Karen are enjoying your trip. Udaipur was like a different world to me from the other parts of India we visited. More organized, more space and more relaxed. We loved it. Enjoy!
We leave tomorrow for revised route to Seoul and Hong Kong instead of BK.
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Can't believe that the Indiana restaurant was taken over by new people. We spent a memorable evening only a month ago with the original owner, an elderly gentlemen in his 80's. Food was wonderful, but show tacky as you said.
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june, maybe we were given bum info.
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Thurs Nov 17
The car came for us at 10 again today. We headed out of town and up in to the hills a bit to visit an area that many very old temples are located in. This is the area of the original Mewar capital. The main focus was on the Nagda Temple (mother-in-law and daughter temple). Dating from 626 AD, the carving is very ornate and very detailed. Bordering a small lake, formerly a river, the area is very peaceful. After our visit there we went to the nearby Ekling Temple, which is located on a busy road in a small village. The silver decoration is interesting. The royal family comes to this temple every Monday.
We headed back to Udaipur thru the Aravalli Hills, passing many marble companies. We ended up at the dock for the City Palace where we embarked on a small boat for a trip around the lake and a stop at Jagmandir Island for a lunch break.
We returned to the hotel and said our goodbyes to Singh and thanked him for his guiding. Please use him when visiting Udaipur.
Dinner tonight is still up in the air. K has just returned with res for dinner the next 2 nights.
Have I mentioned the Indian wedding season? Well, we are in the midst of it. No holes are bared… lighting, fireworks, dinners for 2500, bright elaborate cloth décor, flowers, flowers and more flowers. Every night the Sheraton hosts at least one wedding and sometimes more. There was brunch at 11 today for 2500. The staging for tonight's wedding is unreal. They have built a 3-4 story white fabric tent out front. Two flower clad archways with crystal chandeliers welcome guests---and it goes on and on. Glad our room is on the other side of the hotel as many people are complaining about the noise from last night's wedding.
Looking at a quiet day tomorrow.
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Why India indeed.
BTW, the saying is "no holds barred" -- your version has a nasty connotation . . .
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Loving the details...
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i rather like my version---and as a father of two girls who got married 9 months apart, i find the "holes" of wedding planning and expense extreme and deep.
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Friday Nov 18
Last night we had a 7:30 res at the roof top restaurant of the Udai Kothi Haveli. Oddly, it is located within a stone's throw of where we ate the night before. While not waterside, the roof is high enough to give a grand view of the lake and the shimmering lights at night time.
The entrance to the hotel is dramatic. There is a small circular drive and an arch over the front door shimmering with mirrors and darting light. The small lobby is rich with decoration and we received a very warm greeting upon arrival. There is a tiny elevator which lifts you to the roof top. You step out into a candle/lamp lite area which ekes romance. A swimming pool is located on an adjacent veranda. Our seats at a small table were located on the wall nearest to the lake for a perfect view out to the lake palace and city palace. K was given a small flashlight to review the menu—I did not need one.
Seated next to us was a charming couple from the Munich area.
The menu offered both Indian and International cuisines. K ordered the butter chicken, as she had read that it was the best in town as well as her favorite palak paneer (spinach and homemade cheese). I had chicken strongenoff, which was a sort of a la king chicken dish surrounded by saffron rice—a bit boring. She had crème caramel and I had a brownie sunday for desserts. ~2000 Rs. With one glass of wine and two large Kingfisher beers.
We would love to stay at this Haveli another time.
Upon our return to the Sheraton, the place was buzzing. The lobby was full of Indians in their best dress who were arriving about 9-10 PM for the large wedding in the tent. Music was blazing from the wedding venue on the hill next to the hotel. We sat in the lobby for quite a while and took it all in. We never heard a sound from our room.
Friday will be a totally down day for us. Sort of a day to recharge batteries. K is at the pool for most of the afternoon and I am doing what I am best at: NOTHING.
Our room, while it has a fine view out to the lake, also has a view to some of the hills, to a hill top temple and to a large area where several farmer families live just below our windows. A couple of days ago I saw a woman here going to the toilet in full view of the entire hotel, just now there is a family of pigs roaming around….a woman and a small daughter collecting fire wood… 6 water buffalo just sauntered thru…a huge daddy pig is sniffing around now…large white egret type birds are in some of the water lilly area…. Green parrots dart from tree to tree…. Pigeons roost on my window sill…an occasional car drives along the water's edge. In short, you could spend hours gazing from my window… interesting new paragraphing has just developed??
This evening we look forward to another rooftop, lakeside restaurant before we leave Udaipur for Jodhpur. This has been an interesting stop—I think my favorite thus far, as Craig suggested it might be.
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i should have added that the whole area leading into the haveli is lined with high quality looking shops. We have, however, decided not to explore them.
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Karen, put some time aside for the Maharani Arts Emporium in the main shopping district (there is only one main shopping district in Jodhpur). Don't be put off by the first floor--it is full of junk and really ugly (at least to me) furniture. The fabrics are up two flights of very rickety stairs. You will be in heaven--and bargain, bargain, bargain.
Also, with the main entry arch of the shopping district in front of you, turn around 180 degrees and walk across the street--there is a spice stall where I bought the most incredible long threads of saffron. The best I have ever had. I still have some left kept in an airtight jar and it is as good as it was when I bought it. A half oz of saffron was something like $40--but a half oz is a HUGE amount of saffron. the fun part it, since it was relative so cheap, I use it in everything. A couple threads of saffron goes a long way. So, if you like saffron.....
So glad you both enjoyed Udaipur so much and that the lake was glimmering.
Loving the report!
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My advice is to beware of the Maharani Arts Emporium. I'm not a shopper but even I couldn't resist the merchandise there. No regrets, though. The staircase to the second floor is indeed rickety, if it still stands!
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rhkkmk....glad you are enjoying India. You have finally hit your stride....just the right combination that suits your travel style between sightseeing, shopping, rest and adventure. Perfect.
Like you say, India is old and modern, rich and poor, and above all loaded with immense amounts of culture. You'll find diversity all around you, most of the time it's good. And talk about constant extra sensory overload. I wouldn't expect anything less from an ancient country of about 5000 years history give or take another 2000 years.
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one item i did not know how to approach here, i guess i will just face head-on.
we are experiencing lots of anti-muslim sentiments. In the USA it does not seem to be an issue really, but both in Nepal and especially here in India it is very strong. and these people are not the militant types found in the middle east and elsewhere.
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An interesting comment rhk.
And your sources are...?
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so many of the people that we speak with..
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Soaking in a hot spring and enjoying your report from Kurokawa Onsen. India and Japan seem like night and day and is probably why its not high on our list of places to visit but glad you are enjoying and loving your detailed report. Plus Indian food is not one of our favorites and like you I travel with my stomach,lol. Have to ask you about a two to three week intinerary in India the next time we meet. Maybe a India light tour with Varanasi thrown in (ok I can hear the boo birds singing already).
Did you mean that you are getting anti American sentiments from muslim people or did I get your statement wrong?
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I am surprised that you are surprised. Unless you bring up the subject, people will not discuss politically charged subject, even in India.
Perhaps the reaction from the people is an effort to show solidarity with Americans, and understanding of the aftermath of 911. They are expressing it more bluntly, perhaps. Iraq & Afghanistan are constant reminder of the effort to counter the threat.
India & Nepal have had their 911's a few times in the last few years too.
(Mumbai twice, Air India jet hijacked 1990's, Ahmedabad twice, Aligarh flares up now & then, Kashmir constantly, etc).
The sentiments that you speak of are just under the surface here in the US...just ask any muslim. Perhaps they are expressed less subtly in India & Nepal. (The people you are meeting (in your travels) are, generally, less educated and poorer.) Welcome to the old world with long standing issues compared to New America where people try to leave old entanglements behind and move on. (Old world is REST OF THE WORLD.)
Like you say, you are meeting the challenge head-on. Will be interested in how you handle it.
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the sentiments are unsolicited comments that are negetive towards muslims... sort of along the old boston slogan "Irish need not apply...".
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Appreciate the truth and not the pc answer that most can't or won't admit to. Yes, ht said it not you.
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Interesting to note (as is the rest of your report). Glad you decided to tackle it head on.
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We have just returned from a wonderful 3 week trip through north India and Darjeeling organized by Arvind of Castle and King, a travel agency in Delhi.
Castle and King were excellent. From our first contact with his office, Arvind (the owner) was particularly accommodating and obliging in every way. His personalized service allowed us to change, modify, and update our travel itinerary. Arvind always responded to my emails and phone calls the same day and was extremely efficient. His suggestions for hotels and for out entire itinerary were wonderful. When we arrived in India, the same first class service continued.
We had a driver and a personal guide and driver at each city. We were met at each flight, and were treated royally throughout our trip. Castle and King arranged all hotels, tours and internal air flights. They also provided a cell phone for the entire trip to enable us to contact them, the driver or our guides at any time. During the trip the guide purchased everything, including entry and camera fees (we never had to wait on line), and their representative checked us into our hotels.
Our driver, Krishna was an outstanding and safe driver. He was always on time and very day our car was meticulously cleaned. He always ensured cold water was provided throughout our trip.
All our guides were extremely knowledgeable articulate, accommodating and friendly.
Please do not hesitate to use Castle and King. Arvind is very professional and we cannot recommend him and his company highly enough.
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Good to hear that the negative sentiments are not toward you and not anti-american in any way. Didn't think so. IMHO India is very friendly toward America.
Awaiting the next installment....Jodhpur & Jaiselmer are on our list for next trip to India.
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We had the best dinner. Krishna had a bit of difficulty getting us there as the police had one narrow road blocked off. We finally arrived about 15 minutes late, but it really did not matter as there were plenty of seats. The restaurant is located on the two top floors of the Jagat Niwas Palace Haveli, which is a few "doors" along from the City Palace and right on the lake. The interior of the building is quite open and very lovely. The stairs on the other hand are steep and irregular. Not a choice for one who has difficulty climbing.
Our table was directly above the lake with fab views of the palaces, hotels, etc. For dinner, K chose Kingfisher beers, chicken tikka labadar, potato and cauliflower in cashew gravy, a veggie croquette in a tomato, nut, yogurt sauce, naan, water, and we split a rich ice cream Sunday. 1241 Rs.
Returned to our hotel to complete the packing.
Sat Nov 17
Breakfast on the lower level… just ok, but pastry is flaky..
Krishna came for us promptly at 9:30 as arranged. This is to be a long day as we drive to Jodhpur. After clearing the city, we emerged onto a very good 4 lane separated highway (2 each way). After a way we turned off onto a local road in the direction of the Ranakpur (Jain) Temples. This proved to be a very narrow, curving, mountainous road, which passed through many villages, and huge forested areas (leopard country).
We passed many farmers, including lots of yellow mustard plants just beginning to bloom, several water wheels powered by ox or water buffalo, women washing clothes, loads of women pumping water into clay pots for drinking water, kids and more kids, students in school uniforms, and more free roaming cows than you can imagine.
Eventually we reached the Jain Temple which is indeed impressive, and in the middle of no-where…. There are over 1000 individually sculptured columns dating from 1446. BTW, we had opted out of visiting the oft visited fort on the way as this added at least 1.5 hours to the trip. Fully realizing the sensory overload and being a bit hungry we got back on the road.
We stopped at a local family run carpet shop where we purchased one very small cotton dhuri for under my computer table—soft on the feet. Just down the road from there was a hotel "resort" where we stopped for lunch—Ranakpur Hill Resort. We had bread and soup as this was the only offering other than a buffet. A German couple joined us at our table, which was fun.
On to Jodhpur. The road conditions were not great now so it took extreme skill for Krishna to navigate, plus there were tons of trucks after we joined the old delhi-mumbai road.
At 5:45 we finally arrived at our heritage hotel, The Rattan Villas (www.ratanvilas.com ) -- I booked directly with them. This lovely enclave is located right in the city. Down a short driveway, you arrive at an oasis of a building with green grass, a swimming pool, tons of chairs scattered around the property to relax on. Our very large room and huge bathroom (#107) is located on the 2nd floor just above the central courtyard, cum restaurant. Not only were we glad to be here but the place is fab. We received a very warm welcome from the local tour agency (giving us huge kneel-length flower garlands) but also garlands from the hotel.
We relaxed a bit and went down to the courtyard for dinner about 7:30. The food was amongst the best we have had. I had a bowl of chicken lemon soup and K ordered the following for us to share: giant Kingfisher beer, Mattor mushrooms and peas in gravy (yum!!), lentils and spinach, white meat chicken rolled in egg and cashew flour and cooked quickly in the tandori oven, water, naam and split a fruit salad and custard. 1504 Rs. Lovely setting and very reasonable… Room: 3250 Rs incl breakfast—less than $75.
Don't miss this lovely B&B.
Sun Nov 18
We passed on the buffet breakfast and had fresh cooked eggs, fruit and toast in the courtyard.
Our pick-up was at 10. We headed first to the royal crematory, a taj looking building set high on a hill. All white marble with intricate carving, it was built about 1900. All royals are cremated here after the 1899 death of the Maharaja. The site is very dramatic. There is a small pond next to it where the royals bath after the cremation.
From there we headed to the world's 8th largest fort, a truly massive place built into a tall rock formation. K and Ragu, our guide, toured it for 1.5 hours. I stayed in the a/c, and from the report it is good I did---think mountain goat.
After this it was lunch time so we headed to On the Rocks, a popular purpose built oasis themed restaurant. We had a nice lunch and Ragu joined us. He is interesting and very well spoken… Each Monday he is a Palace on Wheels guide.
Following lunch we returned to the hotel for a couple of hours. K went to the pool and I cooled down and then did internet. The pool is new and very nice.
At 5:30 we were picked up again and proceeded for a walking tour of the main market area. It was bustling. I loved it and took tons of pics. We ended up at the controversial Maharani Art Exporters, a Jain enterprise. We were taken to the second floor. K expressed interest in their designer goods. We were asked to look at their range of items, starting with bed top covers, "made" for a series of well known designers. The range was $45 to $1200, even the inexpensive ones were very nice. They were very nice but we were not in the market. Bring on the scarves! He started with the least expensive of the wool products and finally got up to the outrageously soft and thin---most expensive was only $300. I bargained a bit and we ended up with 3 items in a group purchase. After spending an hour there, we resumed our walk thru the market towards the Pal Haveli at the edge of the market, where we had a res for dinner at 7:30, on the rooftop, looking directly up to the gigantic illuminated fort. Very close and also illuminated is the clock tower.
We had a very nice dinner in the dimly candle lit highest rooftop area. A chicken dish, white rice, a veggie dish and a mushroom dish, all with gravy were enjoyed and washed down by kingfisher and cold water and finally a local dessert of 3 sweet balls made from milk.
Krishna picked us up about 8:30 and took us back to the hotel where we gave him 2 bags of laundry.
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Can39---i'm so glad that your C&K experience was as good as is ours. Krishna is simply the best....!!!
This trip cements into my mind the strong feelings of gratitude and faith I have put in Avrind and Castle and King.
Their performance for us has been 120% thus far. Each guide has been thorough without boring or overloading us and we are appreciative of that. It also cements in our mind the notion of individual travel.
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We loved the road to the Jain temple - wonderful rural area...
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Your Jodhpur B&B looks fabulous!
The Mehrangarh fort was my favorite in India, but it is a bit "mountain goat" in its levels. I had forgotten until you mentioned it. You probably made the right decision to just hang out. You have more forts to see before you rest : )
Those super-soft pashmina's that you bought at Maharani Art are seriously wonderful--and a great value for the money. I bought two when I was there and they fold up into the size of a handkerchief. They can be a scarf or a shawl. I always toss one in my purse folded in a sandwich baggie when I go out in case I need it later. Great for traveling and crazy warm. Whoever is getting them will be so happy (and if it is Karen, that's excellent : )
You are soon on your way to Jaisalmer. I am awaiting your report as that is one place I have never been and your reports are so fabulous. Also Bikaner--I'm so impressed you are staying in Bikaner. I remember seeing Bikaner and the gorgeous Havali's in the movie Hari Om.
You are having such a great trip. I'm so happy for you!
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Great report Bob, oh how I wish I could buy some of those scarves or just go to that shop....
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Mon Nov 21
While at breakfast we talked with a couple from PA and near the end of the conversation we discovered she is a fodorite and that we had corresponded earlier during our trip planning. Not sure of her exact name but it is ~ Magster….
Following breakfast Ragu, our local guide, and Mr Sodha, the day's driver, arrived in a jeep for our trip out into some local villages---about 25 kilometers outside the town. After a bumpy ride in the jeep we left the paved road and headed cross country on dirt/sand tracks. Shortly we arrived into a very small community where about 80 families turn pottery by hand on self-powered wheels... The extended family was very welcoming and we went right in to their compound. I think 3 generations live there---very simply. We watched a fantastic demo by the father, a master pot maker. He quickly turned 3 very nice vessels. We inspected the small wood kiln and saw some of his finished work… K bought a pumice stone for her feet and he also gave me a small diety for my car---50 Rs.
Our next stop after a 10 minute ride down more trails was a Jain farming family. We walked around their compound, had a turban demo---9 meters of cloth. Following this we watched the daughter-in-law prepare some chapatti for their lunch---bread. We gave the kids some candy we had purchased.. After this we were invited to take part in an opium ceremony. Our host took a 2X3" piece of dried opium and pounded it, then added water and then ran it through some sort of cotton purifier a number of times… Following this some was poured into our hands to drink. It had a bitter musty taste, but no affect.
Our next stop was at a durry shop (hand made rugs---this is how they spell it. We had no intention of buying but did end up with 2 rugs which we are having shipped. The brothers who own the shop are well known internationally and have entertained people like Richard Gere, prince charles, American ambassadors, and many others. I wiped my feet on the rug r. gear sat on to watch the demo and buy a number of rugs.
They had new solar panels which the Rajasthan authorities give to artisans so that they can work longer hours, There was no electricity in these villages.
Following this we returned to Ratan Vilas where we stayed put. Dinner was very nice. We sat next to an elderly OS couple who were hard of hearing which made things loud… They moved to OS 30 years ago from England to avoid babysitting grandchildren… A bit extreme—they were academics---probably Cambridge types??
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Tues Nov 22
Quick breakfast and check out for Krishna's p/u about 9:30. He took a back road out of Jodhpur so we got to see more local country, including some huge reservoirs. We saw antelope and deer and tons of birds.
As we drove along the countryside started to change as did the soil. We passed through the "desert", a flat somewhat arid countryside for many miles before entering a more grassy area where the cattle loved the grayish/green grasses. We were getting closer to Pakistan all the time and pretty soon we began to see lots of military, both on the road and bases along the road, including a huge radar installation. At one point about 20 large modern tanks passed by on huge trucks. There were many convoys. Remember this is a very unsteady area and has been for many years.
Eventually we were able to see the huge fort in Jaisalmer, our destination—the golden city for the soft yellow/brown color of the stone which many buildings are constructed from. This is a medium sized town with the only living fort---over 1000 people live in the fort today.
We squeezed thru one of the city gates and then thru an even more narrow gate into our haveli—Nachana Haveli. Decendents of the royal family run this 13 room haveli. The interior is richly decorated and stone is the major building material. Our room, #107, Is smallish but has a domed, high stone block ceiling, a draped bed and stone walls… Oddly, no windows, but we don't mind that. There is a large courtyard outside our door which we share with 4 other rooms.
At 5:30 we drove outside town to an overlook where we watched the sun set. We had dinner in the roof top haveli restaurant---ok but not fab as we were expecting better based on many internet reports.
We walked around a bit and looked into the non-interesting shops. Plenty of cows joined us… We were lured into one shop by "ali barba" and we had a pleasant chat with him.
Wed Nov 23
Breakfast on the roof this morning after a nice sleep. The electricity went out about 7AM and has remained out most of the AM…
K went off with our guide about 9:30 for a tour of the fort. I am again feeling a bit out of sorts so have hung back. At 11 they returned to pick me up to visit the painted haveli's, but I have decided to stay put. She will take tons of pics.
BH---not sure if it worth the trip to come here... need to think a bit about it so we can discuss later..
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Hi Bob, Your trip sounds really interesting. I've not been to the areas west of Delhi that you are visiting, but might consider them for my next trip to India.
It sounds like you are passing up some of the touring. Are you losing interest in the sites because of the length of the trip, the strenuous and long travel days, or is middle age catching up to you? In any case, hope you feel better and hope to hear more about your trip at Joe's.
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I'll be interested to hear your final take on Jaislamer and whether it is worth the effort. And, is the fact that you aren't feeling well perhaps coloring your perspective? Just wondering.
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Bob, how did you enjoy Thanksgiving in India? We were on the road to Shapura Bagh on Thanksgiving in 2009.
I also wanted to mention that the fort in Jodhpur has an elevator, so that visitors can ride straight to the top, no climbing, then walk down leisurely.
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Bob - waiting to hear more about your thoughts on jaisalmer. We loved it. Hope you get the opportunity to tour some of the havelis there and just to wander around town. Will you be going out into the desert by camel?
We paid for the elevator at the fort in jodpur and decided not to use it after renting the audio guides. We didnt think the climb was very strenuous as there's lots of opportunities to rest while listening to the guide which was quite good.
Happy thanksgiving.
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I don't remember exactly where I left off but I think we were about to go for the camel ride. Karen had a nice time with the guide today touring, both the fort above our hotel (hotel is inside the fort walls), and later the painted havelis. In the AM she did visit a cotton shop with the guide which was located in someone's living room. She did find a couple of shirts that she wanted and some skirts for the grands.
I joined them at 4:30 after a rest up day, sleep and computer, and we drove about 25 kilometers outside town for our camel ride. We had decided not to ride the camel (been there, done that), but rather to ride on a camel cart. In retrospect I am not sure this was a good idea, BUT… We and our closest 1000 other tourist friends headed out on a dirt road along the plain to sand dunes overlooking the sunset. I think I liked it but I am not really sure. We did not stay for the final sunset, as we had done something similar the night before, but rather returned to our SUV for the trip back to town before the other 998 left. It was touristy, but a good experience.
We asked Lalu, our wonderful guide, for a suggestion for dinner and he suggested Desert Boy's Dhani, a vegetarian garden restaurant, which was excellent. More on that shortly.
But, before dinner, I had told Lalu that perhaps we should visit the silver shop he uses (read: gets commissions from). He was of course delighted to take us there. Krishna drove us as far as the SUV could go and Lalu called for a tuk tuk which would wind us thru the very narrow twisting and turning streets for about 10 minutes until we reached a beautiful Haveli style house where BD Soni lives with his family and operates Jewel's Haveli out of a showroom in the basement. The general neighborhood is the silver and gold smith working area: Chandi Para (91-9414149352).
We were warmly greeted by BD and his son who were sitting on white covered mattresses on the floor surrounded by silver, really almost a museum setting. He is a 7th generation silver and goldsmith. He has an international reputation as well. He talked to us about history and the gem and metals business for about 5-8 minutes and then asked what we would like to see. He explained about 6 different areas on the walls that contained distinct types of merchandise. K said she had some interest in "old" silver. Big mistake. Out came a santa's sized bag of jingling silver bracelets, etc, which were literally poured out in front of us. K sorted through the perhaps 250 large pieces and decided they were not her style—too big, too bulky, too ornate…. "Do you have smaller?"…. what a stupid question… Mrs Claus' bag was dumped out in front of us. OMG, another 300 items… No interest in those either, and they like the former were just pushed aside. How about new things?....
First was a tupperware box about the size of two shoe boxes. These items were in plastic bags. As she sorted through them she began to find things of interest. Items were plain silver, silver with stones, silver with enamel and/or enamel and stones. Pay dirt. She began to pick out items she liked… OMG, time to leave town. After overload overtook her and she had perhaps 10 items of interest, she asked to see earrings, her favorite item. And Mr Tupperware was not far away. Think 500-750 pairs of lovely earrings. She again picked out several, some of which matched items on the other tray she had selected.
While waiting, I took a stroll around the walls and selected what I thought to be a good looking silver bracelet with gold decoration on it. She liked it and added it to tray 1.
Further review allowed us to narrow the items significantly. Time for pricing (fixed price). The 8-10 items were priced higher than I had expected and immediately the bracelet I had chosen was eliminated by me. Remember, I already bought her xmas present at Gem Palace in Jaipur. She ended up with several items the two best of which are a flexible dragon headed bracelet with extreme detail on the heads, and a broach/pin of an elephant head with tiny ruby eyes and pave smoked diamonds on parts of the head and body….
This was tons of fun, and did not break the bank. Thr tuk tuk had waited for us and took us back to Krishna, from where we drove to the restaurant. Lalu joined us for dinner and chose the items: Cashew curry (yum), veggie korma, desert beans and seeds, naam, rice with pineapple and other fruits, beer, water and the sweet ball dessert. 1009 Rs+
Thurs Nov 24
No Thanksgiving for us here in India. We were joined at breakfast by the German/Swiss couple who we had met the afternoon before in our courtyard.
At 9:30 we checked out and LK was waiting for us as we headed on a day long journey to Bikaner, our last major stop before we return to Jaipur and Delhi.
Along the way we again passed plenty of military, more cows than you can imagine, water buffalo, gypsies living by the side of the road in tent/huts. We made a slight detour and visited the Ramdeara Hindu Temple. This is a huge pilgrimage site in the Spring each year. It was a bit fun actually. We visited a bangle shop and purchased several sets of outrageous bangles, including one set for LK's wife. I stayed out of the temple cause I do not like to take my shoes off in these places, as I have a small cut on one heal. Karen went in with LK.
We had some lunch and an emergency toilet stop before we made a quick stop at the migration site for thousands of Siberian Cranes… It was quite amazing.
On to Bikaner.. We entered a very dusty city. We picked up the local tour manager along the way, who presented us with flowers, as have each of the others. We worked our way around to the old city, where it got slightly less dusty, again weaving in and out of narrow lanes, having to stop a couple of times to move parked motor bikes. Eventually we pulled up in front of an ornate haveli, The Hotel Bhanwar Niwas, our most expensive heritage hotel at $135. It is a real gem with an interior courtyard with a balcony on all sides. Our room is #46, the best in the house we were told. Upon entering you find yourself in a wide and long entrance hall with decorative painted walls and lovely furnishings. The immense bedroom with a painted king bed is off this hall. There is a full modern sofa, two comfortable gilded baroque side arm chairs, a raised area with a dressing table, plus tile floor and subtle stenciled walls in gold tones. A large oriental rug is under a gilded coffee table. Two large Carrier a/c units are in the bedroom. Venetian glass wall sconces are high on the bedroom and hall walls and a large chandelier is in the front hall as well. It is all very old world.
Live music is performed by a single musician in the courtyard during dinner, which is served in an elaborate dining room (of ballroom size) located on the 2nd floor and open on one side to the courtyard.
We enjoyed a fair veggie buffet (our only choice) for dinner---less than 1000 Rs/2. After dinner we sat in two of the ornate sitting rooms on the first floor for a while before retiring to our ground floor room to watch a rerun of dancing with the stars…
Fri Nov 25 'Black Friday'
The breakfast buffet was equally uninspired but the toast was excellent. Our sleep was excellent in a mammoth room. LK came for us at 10 as arranged, but the guide was slightly late (strike 1). We made our way thru the narrow lanes of the old city and finally reached normal roads… We were headed 25 kilometers outside town to the infamous "Rat Temple". K had brought throwaway airline socks for us to wear. We knew we had to visit here, even though we were a bit freaked out. They want you to be barefoot or for 10 Rs they will provide shoe covers, but they were way too small for me. From the outside the temple looks completely normal. As you enter, you begin to see a rat here and there. In the first large room a man is pouring milk into a very large pan. Rats scurry here and there. One runs across your foot, or you almost step on others… Food is here and there. The rats move quickly… Groups of rats hover here and there. Soon you come on two huge pans with milk side by side. Both rims of the pans are covered with rats standing on their hind legs and drinking from the pans. All so organized and calm. Food is scattered here and there on the floor, and yes of course there is rat poop, but it is not bad. Rats hang off gates, and fences, and walk amongst the decoration…
We did not see the white rat, although we did look. Enough of this madness, we are out of here…. This would cure the Days and Wades, our grands, from wanting more hamsters!!
From the rat temple we headed back to town for a good lunch just opposite the Junagarh Fort --(at Gallons)… Before getting there we visited yet another Jain temple with fab painting and carving, and climbed to the top for a nice view… After lunch K and the guide visited the fort and LK and I hung out in the SUV (as I had done at the temple---I am forted and templed out!!…
Next on our agenda was a visit to the grounds of the former royal palace, the Lalgarh Palace, now divided into 2 lux hotels. The guide told me that if I told a small lie he probably could take us inside which K really wanted to do. So, I pretended to be a travel agent.. the director of rooms took us on a ground floor tour… This was the more lux of the 2 hotels, The Laxmi Niwas Palace… WOW… We visited the game room with a small pool table and the walls lined with animal heads and skins in quite good condition, seeing most are about 100 yo. Next was the bar which has similar décor. We then visited a swank meeting room. Then 2 mammoth heritage suites (#108 was fab, rack rate 30,000 Rs). The 2nd was the king's suite which was elaborate but smaller than 108. Finally we visited 3 dining room, all of which were very elaborate and traditional.
From there we headed out of town again, this time to the camel breeding center. We have seen many many camels over the last few days so this was only moderately interesting. What was fun was seeing over 300 of them returning from the feeding fields at the end of the day, heading straight for the watering troughs…
Lalu had told us not to miss the unique Bikaner desserts, one almond and one cashew, so we stopped at Agarwal Bakery to buy Dhokla… They are sweet but not sickly sweet, are cut into a diamond shape and have an edible silver foil on one side.
Dinner was at the haveli---I had soup only -2 (squash with fresh scallions) and K ate the soup and a few bites from the very uninspired buffet. She feels a bit odd tonight.
It was a very long and sunshine filled day. We are both tired. THIS COMPLETES OUR SIGHTSEEING….
Off to Jaipur in the AM for one brief night.
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in answer to your questions, I think we are just tired... We have moved slowly, but could have slowed by one day more in each city with a day of rest..
I have had stomach problems for the whole trip, K has not felt well since yesterday. We cope fine, but honestly look forward to leaving India soon. The last 3rd of the road trip today almost put me into orbit: roads, or lack of; rude drivers; bumps; dust; animals; trucks; etc---they all put me over the edge.
We have seen way too many temples and forts, imo, but others do love this. I am aware of the elevator at that fort, but age and weight encourage me to go slow and be selective. I much prefer the lives of current residents, their markets, etc---but this is very difficult with cow, donkey, goat, dog, and bird s--t everywhere, plus the developed rudeness of locals who just push forward and bang into you constantly...
I am so glad we returned here to India however... I have a more enhanced view than after our 11 day trip 6 years ago.
i will try to write more about jaisalmer tomorrow and ask K to contribute too. I have our guide's info and he is A++, plus he is fleunt in German for those of you seeking that language.
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ewwww, rat temple, I'm shuddering at the very thought. Skipping that if I ever get to India. Have really enjoyed reading all your reports!
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Love your report over the last few days; I want a scarf and I want to see Santa's bags of silver! Great description of the rat temple.
I thought a month-long trip would be pushing it, but not if I'm living it through your posts!
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This has been an amazing recounting of your travels. I am very impressed that you have covered so much ground and seen so much. It is very understandable that you would be feeling somewhat tired, if not exhausted.
Rat Temple (ugh, You are both braver than I!)
One thing that I admire is the "feel" of your narration. You have captured the "grime", dust, bumps chaos, I even think I detect the smells!
I have personally long held a desire to visit India, however, don't have a very strong consitution, and, border on being a clean freak, so think that though exciting and unforgettable, India would not suit me very well.
Thanks so much Bob and Karen for a most thorough and enlightening report. May the rest of your travels be safe and you both feel well.
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Wonderful report, Bob.
About the rat temple..."We knew we had to visit here, even though we were a bit freaked out." LOL. Your great description of the temple is enough to satisfy my want.
I agree...after 3 weeks or so of being on the road, one needs time off...chill day i call it. Looks like that will be at the Marriot in Jaipur...and chill time in Delhi with shopping for K. Bravo, young man for going thru a long trip. Sleeping in your own bed will feel like a king....soon.
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smells... that is a non-issue for us... we do not find that it smells here. In fact, we have always identified a certain smell to thailasnd (not bad) but in India we do not object to any smell.
In fact we must be getting totally used to life here as we don't find it filthy really, just untidy. many of the people could use a good scrub.
IMO, if India is to proceed as a world power they need to overcome two things: litering and the cow issue. Then, they will have a truly open mind and be ready for top class citizenship.
I will catch up the report tomorrow when we are in delhi. Rght now we are in the brand new Marriott in Jaipur and it is a lovely hotel. I have a classic GM story to tell you, a la Gpanda, but that can wait.
I thought it was all coming to an end last night however. As you know K felt out of sorts for the last 24+ hours. Well, last night it all fell apart when she became violently ill, could not shaking, etc. It was 2:30AM and she finally threw-up and the shakking stopped. By 7, it had all passed and she is 100% this AM, and requesting two dropped eggs on toast... In my mind i rearranged the rest of the trip, but alas this will not be necessary.
We are on to Delhi at 10AM with LK in charge.
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Ahh - memories of Bali transformed to India (Bali belly = Delhi belly or whatever...). K's symptoms were mine with the same results followed by a fairly rapid recovery afterward. I believe that it was food poisoning in my case...
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Karen was very lucky. I remained sick for a week although I never threw up. You were both certainly braver than me - going to the rat temple. Our rat experience at the train station cured me of my desire to go there.
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For me 9th day of the trip (usually) is the day to get sick, sometimes violently and then it passes quickly although my insides feel rough for another day or two. Almost always I have to plan a chill day about that time of the trip. And it does not always rhyme...like Bali belly (for example,name of the city does not rhyme with belly). Luckily, I am fine for the rest of the trip.
Bob, are you pining for news from home? Good news (that is, if you are a meechigan fan)....Michigan beat Ohio State 37 to 34 today.
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where is MI??
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I read your post from a few days back saying you were about ready to go home and had had enough of India. You also mentioned you'd not been feeling well. This reminds me of the last week of our trip to Vietnam when I'd been struggling with attacks of diarrhea and was rather out of energy. I am sure this colored my feelings about the trip, and I was so ready to go home.
When I got home I still wasn't well after a few days and so made a trip to the doctor where I got the lovely kit for all of the stool samples. It turns out I had a campylobacter bacterial infection and needed some big gun antibiotics to clear it up. We'd taken cipro along on our trip, but I'd never taken it which was a good thing since it wouldn't have touched this type of infection anyway. So, if your health problems are anything similar, I'd advise a trip to the doctor to make sure you don't have anything serious. My husband, who'd eaten nearly identical things to me (with 1 or 2 exceptions) didn't get this.
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Campylobacter was my little souvenir from Bali, ha ha.
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Karen here...Jaisalmer is really a special place. The fort is not what you think of as a fort, but rather an ancient village inside a wall. Our guide Lalu lives inside the wall, and is well know up there, so maybe he gave me a different perspective of life up there. He is really for UNESCO taking over the area, even though it will eliminate a lot of the hotels/ hostles , gift shops and eating places up there. The problem is there is NO place for the waste water to go , other than into the ground, and that is litterally roting the base of the fort.
I enjoied my visit to the cotten shop, where lalu's mother shops. It was very UNTOURISTY. Prices were extremely reasonably. BUT you did have to watch what he was selling. One top had a big blood stain in the middle of the front , where the sewer had pricked her finger. Another had a small burn hole, from a fire ember maybe. Walking the narrow lanes was interesting although most of the shops were the usual tourist stuff.
The painted havelis were carved in great detail. The paintings for the most part are well preserved, although some have been restored. The paintings are all inside and the exteriors are red sandstone. I went into two.
The ride thru the dessert on the camel cart was very peaceful and the colors of the grass , that sage green we have in the US south west was calming. The plastic bottles in the sand dunes took something away from the scene, as did the hundreds of other tourists.
Our haveli (Nachana Haveli) was an experience... The daily power outage at 7:20 AM when you wanted to shower and dry you hair was a pain. The room was very dark with no power...read NO windows. But...it was an expierence to live in a room that a Maharaja or maharini may have once lived in.
After a few days the veg diet got to me. I guess I am a true carnivor. The Silver guy was fun... Loved diging thru piles of gem and silver to find the few pieces I finally chose. I'd still be there looking if I hadn't gotten hungry.
I guess I would go to Jaisalmer again, but I am not sure Bikaner would be my choice again. Not that much to see and do, and the road trip is long, bumpy and more of the same as far as landscape.
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OK, OK Andy keeps yelling down at me---'tell the GM story Einstein…'
Yesterday we arrived back into jaipur late in the afternoon. I had selected the brand new Marriott as our resting place--literally. I have not mentioned it but all the major chain hotels have added security---first for the car as you enter and secondly at the door before entering—a large xray machine and a metal detector to walk thru.. About as adept as TSA…
After entering the glass enclosed lobby we checked in and were being escorted to our room by the hostess. We were waiting by the elevator when I looked up and saw this man in a suit sprinting down the corridor. He ran up to us yelling out: " Mr Kimball, Mr Kimball…" He said 'I am the GM of the hotel and I just wanted to welcome you personally to the hotel. You are one of our most preferred guests…' I thanked him and he told me if we needed anything just to contact him… At this point andy fell out of the sky laughing…
Sat Nov 26
Off to Jaipur… 6.5 hour drive… very long and at times bumpy with erratic traffic.
The new Marriott is very nice. We were upgraded to a suite with 2 bathrooms, a huge living room, and even more huge bedroom, 2 tv's, etc. Too bad the stay was only one night.
We had made a res for dinner at 7 at Niros, about the best restaurant we ate at in India. LK and Mahadev, our jaipur guide in 2006 and this year, were joining us. We had lots of laughs and a good dinner, even though K did not feel 100%.
About 2:30 AM K got quite sick, but in about an hour it passed. In 45 years I had never seen her this way.
By morning she said she was 98%.
I neglected to mention that while driving we were stopped for perhaps 15 minutes at a railroad stop. The kids in the bus in front of us waved and we began to play hand games. I got out of the car and passed candy thru the window to them. They loved it. Other people approached us to talk and shake hands. The average Indian is very friendly and curious.
Sun Nov 27
Another travel day. Off to Delhi.
While at breakfast the thai chef came by to talk… quite a pleasant man. Next the Italian chef came by and spent about 30 minutes talking to us. He was very interesting. Later he delivered to our room a doggie bag for our driving trip. Very nice of him.
Road was not great… but not as bad as day before.
We are at the Delhi Hyatt Regency, built in 1983. Tiny room in comparison to everything we have had… 2 nights only… Drinks and snacks in club—no dinner.
Two days of shopping follow… K repacked tonight to see if we have any room left—a small amount..
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Bob I think for sure Andy would be rolling his eyes at your GM story.
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Bob and Karen,
I have throughly enjoyed your report. I feel I have been a stowaway on your Indian journey--your descriptions are so rich and so personal.
Like any trip, it is always nice to look forward to getting home and in your own bed. You are arriving home at a wonderful time. Christmas is in full swing--the trees are lit, the carols are being sung. All Needham and surrounds (AKA Boston and Cambridge) needs is the two of you.
Your journey has been fascinating and enlightening. Can't wait to have another lunch at Similians and hear more details.
Safe journeys home.
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BH, we followed your notes again today and hit haus kaus village and khan market, plus Inde Arts--he is suffering a bit from the economy and priced accordingly.. pls don't tell customs.
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Mon Nov 28
Very easy day today. SHOPPING in Delhi
First up was Khan Market... This block of shops contains restaurants, shops, a bank, two pharacies and Anoki and FabIndia shops.
At one pharmacy, I was able to buy 1 year's worth of a med I take daily for 50% of the Canadian pharmacy price I have been paying and about 25% of the usa price. I order it quaterly thru canada from India---same manufacturer. I was not asked for a script... BINGO...
K bought a few tops, some $$ envelopes, and a few other things.
I had another stomach issue once we got there and had to rush off to a nearby Taj hotel.
Next up was Haus Kaus Village, a similar area to KM... Fist up was lunch at Kafe d'Oro. Delicious soup... We visited a few shops, but most were very high end sari/indian dress shops and jewelers, which held no interest for us.
Back to the Hyatt after this. We had a cold drink in the club which was welcome and then visited the very large selection of shops within the hotel. Most held no interst for us but we did visit Inde Arts, a jeweler- based on a suggestion from Boston Harbor. We had no intention of buying another thing, BUT the prices he quoted were toooo good to pass up---let's just call it xmas 2012 and 2013 in advance. He is an older man and he says business is not good so I think maybe he is just looking to unload things quicker than usual.
K got sucked into another shop---scarves, etc---i got us out of there quite quickly, although he had one super fine pashmina+ scarf, i would love, but $275 is just tooooooooooo much, no matter how nice it is---and i already bought a way less expensive one, which was too expensive too.
Avrind, his wife and daughter will be our guests tonight in the Italian restaurant for dinner. Arvind is the owner of Castle and King, our Delhi based tour agent on both this trip and our first Indian trip.
Let me say again that the planning and the execution of both trips has been flawless. I cannot recomend them more highly.
I have spoken above about our driver and have spoken about many of the guides as well and will say more before I am finished. Most of the guides are available for free lance work. Two of them also guide weekly for Palace on Wheels.
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We had a very nice dinner with Avrind and his 5 yo daughter and I are about on the same level... The Italian restaurant at the hyatt is excellent, btw.
Next up--change hotels in the AM for the last time.. A visit to the shops at santucci..
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Tues Nov 29
Our last day in India. Krishna picked us up at 11. We had one and only one goal for today-- a visit to Santucci Shopping area within the Air Force base. There are a series perhaps 20 shops here---all upscale... many are dress/sari shops, but there are home furnishing shops, jewelry, leather, childrens, scarf shops. Basil and thyme is a nice lunch restaurant there as well.
An ATM stop provided tip money for LK and we were DONE.
Off to the airport at 7 tomorrow on our way to Helsinki on Finn Air. We have 22 hours in Finland at the lux Kamp hotel before our flt to JFK.
I think i will have a series of thoughts on the trip, some contact info, etc later in the week.
Bills for your portion of the trip will be posted within 2 weeks.
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Vicarious living saves me a lot of stress. India just fell to the bottom of my travel desires.
DH sent you a message on my trip report.
Safe travels home, and we want to hear more about Finland.
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Have a safe journey, you two. Hello from Lausanne Switzerland.
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We had a good 7 hour flt from delhi on Finn Air, tightly packed, but we each got a 2 seater to ourselves. The Kamp is worth the splurge, its old world elegence with all the updates. We had dinner last night in the hotel brasserie---filet mignon sandwiches, rare, served like a hamburger with delicious fresh FF--- 27 E each. We sat in a glass enclosed, and heated, sidewalk section overlooking the street and the park promenarde decorated with a few xmas lights.
We were in bed by 8...
We took a shared van in from the airport, 27 E for 2. The stand is directly outside the customs door and is marked "airport taxi". It is misty here so not a time for walking around--maybe this AM. Fully dark by 4 PM.
Helsinki is a lovely city surrounded by water. Large passenger ships/ferries dot the harbor area. The buildings are drab, utilitarian 4-7 story and mostly all box like. There is not much green in the center except the lovely promenarde. Lots of green outside however. Clothing is mostly dark and dreary.
We really like Finn Air, so Helsinki makes a great place for a break to and from asia.
We are apprehensive about catching our jet blue flt to boston from jfk, but i have a car res back up if necessary.
We look forward to being home, to seeing the family, to the Christmas season and OUR OWN BED.
This has been a packed 6 week journey, filled with new experiences and now on to the picture sort out--- ~ 3000.
OK, WHY India? Why not. It has to be one of the most diverse, fast moving, exciting, romantic, frustrating, spiritual, wonderous, mystifying, grand, lavish, outrageous, rich/wealthy/poor, smart, outspoken, cutting-edge, populace, green, corrupt, dirty, but yet delicious countries on the face of the earth or outer space. Every traveller, including sandra, richard and carol (no E) simply must travel here.
With the exception of hotels, costs are very reasonable here. If you stay at the heritage hotels, your costs can also be reasonable as well. We paid as little as $67.
India is also a great place to use points for stays in the big cities, or cash and points--starwood.
Having a car and driver also make all the difference. Many fodorites travel solo and pick up things as they go, but imo this takes way too much effort when for the comparitively small cost for the driver you can have comfort, not to mention safety. This is soley my opinion and relates to northern India only.
Using a local tour agent in India also makes complete sense to me. I have used Castle and King in Delhi for two trips now and I can't say enough for Arvind, the owner and his willingness to work with you and to PLEASE you and to make your trip memorable. The men and women that he employs or contracts with were 110% in our experience. His fees are reasonable and correct, his vehicles are safe, well maintained and exceptionally clean. He is very flexible in all planning. For this trip I chose and booked all of our hotels, and he commented on the suitability of each one and supplied alternatives for consideration.
We were 100% happy with each of our hotels, although I would not stay at temple on the ganges another time, but would instead chose the Palace on the Ganges next door--both in Varanasi.
Delhi-belly is alive and well and is not confined to Delhi. It joined me for 100% of my time in India and I left it there yesterday. At one time or another we both took an anti-biotic during the trip. Drugs are available in each city with no script, although K brought a supply with her.
The food was really good, but I found myself yearning for some plain oil/lemon BBQ chicken and some red meat. I love the use of cauliflower in so many veggie dishes and the delicious sauces that accompany so many dishes. The frequent and varied use of cashews is also a delight.
Every foot of space in India offers a photo experience. The faces, the animals, the veggie stands, the buildings, the shops---you never want for subjects... Did I mention the varried colors...
Of course there is the abject poverty, depravity and squallor also. These are not pleasant, but are a fact of life in India. K often has commented on the cleanliness of clothing and people in other 3rd world countries, but sadly we cannot report that for India.
We found the constant need for hand wipes and I have never washed my hands as much as in India.
Given all the plusses and the minuses, India is climbing the world chain and will be a giant of the world power and economic structure for decades to come.
To round out your travel experiences, you must visit India. It is unlike any other country that I am aware of and deserves your attention. You are simply not well travelled until you have spent some time in India!
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Great report, Bob - can't wait to see the pix!
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OK, THE FIRST SNAG... THE WOMAN CHECKING US IN GAVE US A REAL HASTLE (our carry ons were too heavy). We were able to work it out, but now she is at the check-in gate... we will know shortly.
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2 questions for you:
Please explain why you'd stay at Palace on Ganges rather than Temple on Ganges if returning to Varanasi.
In retrospect, was it worth making the effort to go all the way to Jaisalmer?
Hope Delhi belly stays in India and doesn't make the transatlantic trip!
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Live your wrap up. Have a safe and easy journey home.
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I also loved your wrap up. "From Delhi to Helsinki"--what a culture, color, and climate shock as you reenter the West. Your description in your first paragraph was fantastic.
I'm sorry that Delhi Belly was so bothersome, but I'm glad that it didn't ruin your trip.
Welcome home. Enjoy that wonderful feeling of showering in your own shower just before climbing into the familiar comfort of your own bed.
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OMG, the shower and the bed!! safe return home, even tho the transfer to jet blue at jfk was a bit rushed...
for us the extension to bikaner and jaisalmer was worth it. Both offer yet another perspective on India... However if your finances and/or time is limited I feel that you could skip either or both. Both accomodations were unique and fun. The J guide was outstanding. Staying within the city walls of a living walled city was another experience which we enjoyed.
Varanasi. The bathroom at Temple on G had water problems on the floor which turned me off. The hotel itself was adequate with a very nice roof restaurant with edible food, but in comparison to Palace on G appeared to be a far lesser quality of a hotel. We did not view P rooms, but the public rooms were far more lux---but then nothing in V is very lux.... We did like being out of the hustle at assi ghat rather than more centrally located up near the burning ghats. It had more of a community atmosphere rather than a freak show. Having the car at our disposal again made life easier. Each time we took the boats we did so from the central ghats, but many also hired boats at assi ghat for the more extended row up to the action--cost about 400-500 Rs.
The boat rides are very memorable and for us were the highlight of our visit to V.
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Welcome home. I have greatly enjoyed your report, and look forward to your photos.
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Glad you are back in the US of A! I await your photos.
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Welcome home Bob and Karen. This is actually one of the best reports I have ever read here on Fodor's......thank you!
Awaiting those pictures too....haven't heard from you for a while so I suspect you are editing them even as I write,lol.
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HT.... and what about a TR about Japan? Weren't you and Linda just there/still there?
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working on the pics... going to do a better job this time..
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Carol, we got back a day before Bob and am working on it. Been busy catching up at work(some of us have too) and our daughters missed their usual Thanksgiving so we did it Sunday, wow now I know why we left,lol.
Pics almost done and will be first followed by an analysis.
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We've got approximately 6,000 pictures from India! Trying to cull through them, delete many and photoshop them. What a job.
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peter---poor excuse---remember you are the boss, just do the travel stuff...
june-- it is a mountain of a job this time as most are so unique...
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Take your time, Bob - just remember that I only have time to look at 1500 or so...
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i will bring some to ny this weekend so you can start early craig
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This is an amazing report! (Just got caught up on my reading.) I loved your recap, and I agree completely that a car and driver is the way to go in India. Can't tell you how many times my husband and I looked at each other and said, "Thank God we aren't trying to do this on our own."
I can't believe you wrote all this as you went along. Knowing how draining India can be, that is a real accomplishment!
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What a fab report. Your wrap up, while still on your way home was so full of not just facts but I got the feelings too. You made me really re-consider India.
I began reading this report just knowing, really knowing I would never go to India, as I am (and have been warned by my physician) not to subject myself to tummy troubles, yet, your report and wrap up, i.e. your afterglow of this trip really spoke to me as something I should do before the time that I can no longer easily travel.
Bob & Karen, you are an inspiration for those of us who LOVE travel and yearn for captivating experiences. Vince and I are in your age bracket yet still looking to discover something new.
Looking forward to your pics, as always.
Thanks again for taking us all along with you on your latest adventure. And, I guess some of Andy was with you all the way.
Enjoy your bed at home
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Bob - just how many pics are we going to be looking at in NYC??? Looking forward to seeing you all this weekend.
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2000-3000... no time for cocktails
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i am having trouble uploading and titling my pics, do you want to see them in a raw state??? i will edit them down of course
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Your report was interesting and helpful. It gave me much insight and many tips even though our travel styles are miles apart. Writing this was a ton of effort on your part, and, as someone else said, it is incredible that you were able to write this while on the go. Or, perhaps it was just that Delhi belly had you more confined to your room than you might otherwise have been and this was a productive way to spend your time between trips to the bathroom. Hope al is well now that you are back in the US.
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i find that i lose tip bits quickly if i don't write immediately... plus no big back log when i get home..
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I'm fine with raw footage.
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here are the first pics---Thailand only...
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Waiting for more.
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The photos of you and K putting Andy's ashes to rest in the Chao Phraya and at the ROS are particularly moving...
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Finally some pics of India... i have included far more than i wanted to, but the Indian scenes are just too good to not share...
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This is group II of the India pic, incl Varanasi
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sorry so many of the pics are out of focus... low light conditions and frequent movements cause most of it, plus my haste
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some pics of jaipur
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Have not looked at all pics yet, as I'm catching up on all sorts of things after 3 weeks in Europe. But what I've seen of your pics so far, they are really great! Thanks for sharing.
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thanks for sharing.
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Loved your pics....loved the caption "peel me a grape".
Thanks for sharing.
Still continuing to look ate the other pics.
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let me speak to indian women's veils.... according to krishna the main purpose of the use of the veil is to show respect...
as an example he told us that his wife pulls her veil over her face when his father is present, but never when K or his brothers are present... his mother does not use a veil except when a non member of the family, a male, is present. K's wife uses a veil when out in the village.
i am sure many western women disagree with this, but to me it does demonstrate a level of respect.
i have ordered Karen some veils for Xmas.
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we are in ny for the weekend so no new pics till next week.
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Respect for what?
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Wedding veils, I hope. i hear after your latest posts that she's out "looking around"
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Indian women veils are something like covering your head when you go to church or temple...a form of respect and/or modesty.
And the longer the veil....more modest and more respectful????
Bob, if K comes back with a veil, you better be prepared to act like god. I don't think you are up to it. LOL.
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ok, i will suggest a black berka
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still having trouble uploading pics...
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I hope you get the upload problem solved. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of yoru photos.
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my daughter helped me last night and i have quite a few more available... i just need to title some and pick from the hundreds...
may skip kathmandu until after xmas, but i can do udaipur and its neighbors now...
stand by
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here is the first group of my Udaipur pics. this city is our favorite of the Indian places we have visited thus far.
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this is the 2nd part of the Udaipur pics....these are mostly outside the city...
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Bob, nice sets - really enjoyed these. Your hotel is beautiful.
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craig--the hotel was a bit odd but we enjoyed it there..
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So, will there be a 3rd trip to India in the next 5-8 years? Love your pics. Still not sure India is on my radar screen yet.
Bet it feels good to be home. When do you head to FLA? I'm still not booked but hope to be in St Pete/Treasure Island around Feb 8-10 for about 5 days.
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we leave here on the 28th of jan---driving..
we will be aboard a ship during your dates...
not sure a return trip to india is in the cards unless we decide to combine south india with a visit to sri lanka... right now i have begun planning 6 weeks in china and thailand for fall, 2012..
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oh yes, the site:
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here are the Jodphur pics
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Bob and Karen--I am SO enjoying your photographs and your occasional hilarious subtext. The rug shop in the desert has some gorgeous rugs. Louise bought two large ones when she was there and they have turned into her favorite purchases from any travel destination.
Loving the journey!!
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The fort in Jodphur is awesome - but as can be expected, there is a sameness to the Rajasthan architecture. Enjoyed the camel photos too.
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i could not believe it when that camel spit his mouthful of chewed greenery at me and it landed all over my shirt....
the more i look at my pics the more pleased i am with them for a small point and shoot camera... the semi-dark pics seem to be mostly out of focus and that is probably my shaking and not allowing the camera to focus properly..
more pics tomorrow and the nepal pics after xmas when my daughter reworks the cd for me...
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Here are the Jaisalmer pics:
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and here are the bikaner pics:
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best address to reach castle and king at is:
[email protected]
they usually respond quickly or within 48 hours.
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bookmarking for later reading and commmenting on ... thanks for the great pics, Bob!
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and finally my last group of pics....some of jaipur and then all the kathmandu pics...
thanks for joining us..
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Thanks for all the wonderful Photos. MA must seem awfully dull and colorless in contrast with Thailand and India.
Alas we are headed back to S Florida for 6 weeks this Jan, no SE Asia for us this year. I shouldn't be saying "alas" about it, but I even find Hawaii a bit dull in comparison with SE Asia. However, dh has agreed to a Jan/Feb 2013 trip back "over there" so I'll start planning it soon.
Thanks again.
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we head to florida on jan 28 for a month with a one week cruise in the middle (i'm sure we will hate it).
if you see us say hello....
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Where will you be in Fl? we are in 4 locations over the next 6 weeks and on both coasts.... perhaps we will meet up in FL of all places.
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amelia island at end of jan, then ft myers about the 2nd of feb for a couple of days, then our cruise, then miami 12-14, then key west hyatt 14-16, then gainesville, then tallahassee, the st augustine on the 20th, then heading north via SC, VA and NJ.
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I'll be in St Pete area for one week, Feb 8-15, if anyone happens to be around there! I always stay in one place, but I guess I could move around.
Bob, where is your cruise going, and what ship are you taking? I assume it's in and out of Miami? Or Ft Lauderdale?
Where will you be in Miami?
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in and out of ft laud. its the celebrity soltice going to western carrib.
in miami we will be at marriott on biscayne bay....we have stayed there before and its fun to watch the ships come and leave....
come to kw for a couple of days---14-16... mcbeanie may be there too? or come down to miami---use some points...
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Miami is a possibility, but KW will have to wait. I fly home on the 15th, from TPA. Would love to catch up with you guys in FLA.
Your cruise sounds nice. I've not cruised since the early 2000s. Last cruise was southern Caribb out of Puerto Rico on Princess. It was great!
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We start out in Destin this coming week, then to PGA Sheraton at Port St Lucie, then we'll be in the Palm Beaches (at the Marriott on Singer Island) Jan 20- Feb 3 - Have through the 10th with Marriott in Orlando so will be quite a distance from Miami by the time you are there It was worth checking though just in case we could set up a mini GTG.
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another opportunity lost
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just reread this..INDIA IS FAB... we had a great trip in 2011... would consider a return... would love to visit some of the south..
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Hey Bob
I started reading all this, then thought, "this sounds familliar" however, have not been on the Asia board for many months and laughed when I saw that I was one of the last posters on this 2011 thread. That was a fantastic trip you took to India ...
We are leaving tomorrow for Florida again, Chicago is cold though no snow yet (which is unusual) but we'll be back home in mid Feb.
Already beginning planning a Thai, Vietnam trip for Jan/Feb 14.
Were you ever able to present the donation in honor of GPanda to the Thai Orphanage? If you have, I'm sure you have already written about it but I've been off the Asia board for a while.
Happy New Year to all the wonderful Fodorites.
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yes we were... we did it this past november... look for my asia report for fall 2012... click on my name..
it was a very moving experience.
i'm working on japan and thailand for fall, 2013 now.
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Hi, Bob,
I've FINALLY finished this post and have really enjoyed it, especially now that we've been to India. And, of course, I'm currently planning a trip to Thailand + Siem Riep for next year, so it's great going through your TR now.
I had to laugh, though, when I got to your visit to the Bishnoi villages outside of Jodhpur. We had the same guide, Ragu, and went to the same places, also ending up buying a durry from the weavers. We really had a great time with Ragu -- he was one of our favorite guides, and we loved the visits to the different compounds.
Our visit to the 2nd "family" -- the one who offers the opium tea ceremony -- was hilarious, though. My husband and the family head really hit it off -- and Ragu called us back the next day to see if we could come over for dinner! We weren't able to -- but it was great to have such an invitation!
After the tea ceremony (we didn't feel a thing, either), the wife came over to us. My husband commented that she didn't look happy. Ragu translated the exchange, and her response went something like, "Why should I be happy? I do all the work and he smokes opium all day long!"
I do have to post the photos -- there are some priceless photos from that day. I really laughed when I saw the turban wrapping ceremony -- I have a great shot of my husband wearing the same one. I'm jealous, though, that Karen got to wear it, too!
I'll upload our photos shortly -- such a hoot to see your pictures!
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In fact, it's the SAME durry that is used for the demonstration! So much for authenticity! It was still fun, tho, and we're happy with our durry.
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hope this may add to your info
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Hi Bob.
Just re-reading your report to get the finer points before we leave in a few weeks. Were your guides Dev in Jaipur, Ragu in Jodhpur and Vivender Singh all provided by C&K or did you contract with them separately? In some notes I'd made, you also had mentioned Anoop? Was he a guide or driver and for what region? When you went shopping, do you dismiss the guide and just use the driver?
Also. we only have one night in Udaipur as we're spending one night in Devi Garh, so I'd like to book the most atmospheric yet good food lakeside terrace restaurant. Did you prefer Ambrai or Jagat Niwas? On TripAdvisor, the higher ranking goes to Jaiwana Haveli Rooftop Restaurant…so if anyone else has eaten there, I'd love to hear your comments, We'll be staying at Fateh Prakash in the City Palace complex, so it would be more of a hike to get to Ambrai. BTW, I'm also questioning our hotel choice…I'd also considered Jagat Niwas or Shev Niwas….anyone want to give their thoughts? C&K had thought Fateh Prakash better.
Thanks so much for more info!
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mr singh was a driver as I remember... the other 2 were provided by C&K and were both excellent.
anoop was our ndriver in 2006 and now lives in Dubai.
the rooftop restaurants generally give the best views... ambrai was very enjoyable too..
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