text:
|Trad, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
|YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
|Layton Kor and Chuck Alexander, 1950s
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|Submitted By:
|Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
|Comments on Kor's Flake
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001
|A great route. Nicely exposed for a 5.7 with an exciting hand traverse (find an undercling and plug the #4 BD Camalot, then hangout and enjoy the exposure). Two roofs make this an exciting 5.7. The moves are fun, the protection ample. A #4.5 Camalot would be useful for the namesake flake. Good luck and enjoy.
By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001
|Agree this is excellent and exciting.....but I plugged a perfect #5 Camalot for the traverse.
By Darin Lang
May 29, 2001
|Length, position, and relative solitude (only two other parties on Sundance this Saturday morning) add up to the best 5.7 I've ever done or heard of. One note for those using the Gillett guidebook - the fixed pins referred to at the end of P4 are conspicuous only in their absence, so plan accordingly.
By Matt Robertson
May 30, 2001
|An excellent and historic oddysey with lots of variety and good climbing of many different types. I would caution the new leader to have his or her act together here: Kor's Flake is a lot of route for 5.7, more than it looks on paper. A 5.10 gym climber or budding trad leader feeling confident after Calypso or the Bastille Crack will likely find the chimney interesting (maybe more so than the oft-mentioned traverse). Also, be careful about trying to stretch pitches - I forced myself into a cruel belay in the dihedral above the chimney. Great route, lots of fun, and a gentle prelude to a lifetime's worth of classic and challenging Kor creations.
By Brice W
Aug 7, 2001
|I don't recall using big gear for the hand traverse, but I did use some on the squeeze chimney. For the chimney, trying to stay at least partly outside is the way to go, I think. I stayed too far inside and made it hard on myself. The 4th pitch is classic. That and the 2nd pitch (both 5.7+ in Rossiter's guide) felt about ten times easier than the chimney. Don't bother looking for nice ledges for the belay after the 2nd pitch, there aren't any.
By John Keller
Aug 29, 2001
|One look at the huge crack and it was stemming and face work for me. I never got into it once. However, it's about 5.8 and there isn't any pro till after the flake gets closer to the face.
By Erik Corkran
Aug 30, 2001
|Just seems weird that I didn't have a comment on this route, since it is one of my favorites anywhere. Having done it with and without the #5, I would say if in doubt bring (borrow?) it, but if you find yourself wanting it, you will probably want it several times. I think the squeeze chimney and the ramp/crack leading up to it is my favorite part, though the whole climb is great. Seems like I stayed mostly inside the squeeze, but then again I like squishing myself into weird holes in rocks.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 24, 2001
|[definitely] THE BEST 5.7 i have done. long and exposed.go send.however, don't believe the "squeeze chimney [stuff]" this section is easily face climbed with much less thrutching.
By Erik Corkran
May 6, 2002
|"Squeeze chimney [stuff]"? Sure you could face climb it, do what you want. Personally I like the squeeze.
By Anonymous Coward
May 20, 2002
|I think I would put this at a 5.8 as well. Adequate pro? I think the higher part of the ramp/chimney qualifies as an nasty off-width, with more than a bit of a run out; unless you typically carry big bros. (That #11 Hex that's jammed into the crack up high, with the rappel ring on it... that's mine, you are welcome to it) Anonymous Coward? You bet! But we made it down alive, learned a lesson in pride, and that beautiful climb will be ours someday. The rock isn't going anywhere. Budding trad climbers, heed the words of these other alpinists, it's a nice climb but, more that it looks on paper. (I should have read this page BEFORE I went out... duh!) PS... I did scarf a #6 hex from another "bailer", so I didn't make out too bad.
By Errett Allen
May 28, 2002
|Note that in the back of the chimney, there is an old fixed rope with loops tied in it. I was able to hook it with a friend and then used it to clip in for pro. Don't count on it though as it may be out of reach and you CANNOT see what it is fixed to -- might be an old squirrel turd for all I know.
By Ryan Miller
May 28, 2002
In short one of the best 5.7s I have done.
Thanks for the to Hexes, banged them out this past Memorial Day Weekend. The rope is tattered and lost in the back of the chimney now.
Special note to new 5.7 leaders.
The run out above the 2 belay on pitch 3 might be more then liked, especially with no big gear. I had to run it out 30 feet on the anchor to the fixed hexes mentioned above. Great stemming and lie-backing can be had and once above the squeeze good gear is available. Also, do not take this lightly.
Reality check: After the pitch was finished my partner told me about a girl he knows that fell 40 feet out of the squeeze to the ledges below the belay, with less then optimal results. So, it is possible to fall here. There is possibility for a tipped out #4 above the belay and a shitty micro cam where the squeeze forces you out on the face.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 16, 2002
|Just a quick comment about the second pitch: some guidebooks list this as a 155 foot pitch. It is NOT! It is more like 80-90ft: you ought to set your belay right before the first wide section, otherwise you'll end up out of rope (with a 50m) right in the middle of the wide stuff, with little option for a decent anchor. Pitch 3 goes thorugh the wide section to the very top of the flake and is about 150ft.
By Jake
Sep 16, 2002
|Confirmed, the third pitch is run out. Stemming works for the first third, then a few chimmney moves, then the OW crack to the crappy slab belay. Gear-wise, about 1/3 of the way up the crack, there is a small [vegetated] crack at climbers right. If you stem between the wall (on right) and the outer lip of the flake, it is possible to place two aliens, a green and a yellow. The next piece is a number 4 when the flake constricts back to OW. The rope in back of the chimmney is unreachable as of 9/15/02. A sweet route. The "undercling traverse" is not such a big deal. Enjoyable climb!
By Nate Christiansen
Jan 29, 2003
|The mental crux is the OW section which is runout, but I found, and I am sure that others have too, is a marginal #4 stopper in the small seam to the right of the OW section. The placement in blind to place it fast until 4" cams are feasible. I personally enjoyed the pitch after that the most. You know, the most exposed 5.7 traverse in the world. The first time I climbed this, I was forced into a nut belay right after the the left traverse, on that exposed overhang. #2,3,4 stoppers. What a rush!
By Nate Christiansen
Jan 29, 2003
|When face climbing the chimney, just be aware of the rock texure to the right. It has been climbed many times and is getting very polished.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2003
|Climbed this for the second time yesterday. What a climb. Although accurate, the 5.7 rating gives little indication of the reality of this route. There is some rope in the back of the dreaded chimney section for pro, though it's way back there and I didn't have the energy to get it. Also, this climb can be strung together as three 200 ft. pitches with relatively little rope drag. Climb a full 200 ft. pitch into the flake, climb another 180 foot pitch through the chimney to the top of the flake, then do another long 200 ft. pitch past the roof to the top and belay from a tree. Mike.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 21, 2003
|Very good route. We lead the wide section in one 180ft pitch, belayed just below the dihedral.Used a 3.5 and two 4 Cams for pro and some small stuff at the start. Stemming is the way to do it, scary but not as draining.Pay attention to the picture taken on 8/18 notice it avoids the had crack and traverses under it, much easier!!! Descent is rappelling into gully, bring 2 60m ropes and make it easier on yourselves. I agree with a previous comment, not for the new 5.7 leader. Great route lots of varied climbing with excellent exposure!
By Paul Giglio
Sep 16, 2003
|Did it a third time yesterday. Had great weather and only saw one other party all day. Was quickly reminded of the "reality" of this climb, but man it's fun.
By Tonya Clement
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2003
|I wish I read this site and set a 2nd belay 30 feet up the flake just before the O/W so that my partner would end up doing the O/W instead of me. I started up the O/W and didn't see any gear placements....all the way I wished I had a couple big bros as they would have been perfect. For the bulk of this O/W I stayed on the outside but I didn't quite make it to the top of the flake. After what appeared to be 30+ feet of runout I got a bit freaked out and decided to do a body wedge into the thing and set belay near that mangled rope with the loops. I used a large hex and two 3.5 cams. I can't name a harder 5.7 that I have done. This one is a character builder.
By hanging by a rat turd
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|I am the budding young tradster of the comments above. I have climed North Chimeny on Castleton Tower, so I thought this route would be cake. Yeah, right. If you are trying this route, make sure you are very comfortable leading 5.8 maybe even 5.9, the runout is pretty big. Well anyways, one of my buddies and I tried this route Friday. The weather was nice for November, but the rock was cold as hell and my hands were freezing. This made the crux pitch really difficult to stem. After hanging out stuck in the chimney, I grabbed the rope in the back and pulled myself up, it was really, really embarrassing. By the end of the fourth pitch it was dark as hell, which also sucked. The last pitch was in the dark, and very very scary. If you do this route in the winter, get an early start. Don't forget your number four!
By shad O'Neel
Mar 26, 2004
|Now, that's some 5.7 cuz......the crux is by far the squeeze. You fellas lie backing that run-out are bigger than me. Some slippery rocks climbing through there. I found the wee lil' nut, puckered [and] said ok. The yellow Alien though, I missed that one. After you are done groveling, the route gets real nice. Nice job, Layton, you hard boy climbin' this in your hob nails with a hemp rope tied round your waist. Damn. Note that Tim in the pics below is doing some harder starting chimney than most folks do.
By Danny
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Superb route! Did this easily in four pitches with a sixty meter rope. Found the off-width to be the crux-a number five BD Camalot proved nice for this section. Rossiter mentions stemming. but once in it I found it very difficult to exit.
By Michael Kullman
May 23, 2005
|Definitely not an entry-level 5.7 ;-) P1and 2 are so-so, but once you get into the OW on P3 it has your full attention until the very end.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2005
|The wide pitch on this climb is completely different from the rest of the climb. If you don't have big gear, you'd better be prepared to run it out. Seconding I stayed out of the crack and found this to be rather insecure. Had I been leading I'm sure I would have been inside the crack. Anyway it's pretty cool thinking of Layton Kor forging up this pitch.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 29, 2005
Climbed 8.27.05 with J. Blumberg. This is a classic and a must for those 'collecting' Layton Kor's projects. It's the best 5.7 I've done in Colorado and compares well with Corrugation Corner (Lover's Leap, CA; my favorite at this grade). I didn't feel like there was anything harder than 5.7 on the route, but agree that P3 would be stiff for an inexperienced leader. I would recommend one big piece (4.5 or 5 Camalot) for P3 but my partner sent the pitch without it.
An important side note--the descent will take you past the absolute mother of all raspberry patches, a very tasty treat indeed this time of year.
By Eric Rak
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 20, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|We racked up to a number four Camalot, but a #5 and/or a Big Bro would have been useful for the P3 squeeze chimney. My partner led this pitch wedged in the chimney grunting like a redneck in the sheep pen, running it out over a tipped-out #4. Seconding, I managed to stay out of the crack/chimney by doing a bit of stemming, laybacking and slab technique which felt like solid 5.7. P4 is outstanding and, IMO, more memorable than the flake itself. The hand traverse kicks in the exposure and the horizontal takes a perfect #4 offering bomber pro below you as you cruise the fun hand cracks to the belay ledge.
By Chris JD
From: Golden, Co
Oct 18, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Great climb... As I had only a #4 Camalot at most, I placed it as marginally as I possibly could and then proceeded to shove myself into the chimney, instead of gracefully stemming the chimney as my partner did.The 3rd pitch is wild and tons o fun.
By Roger Rumsey
Aug 28, 2006
I climbed this route for the first time on Monday, August 21, 2006. It was a great experience, as I led all of the pitches. I would concur with previous posts that this climb should not be taken lightly, even though it is rated at 5.7. I am quite confident leading trad at the 5.9 - 5.10 range. However, we took only one #4 Camalot. I stayed out of the chimney with a combination of face, stemming and laybacking to get up pitch #3. I tried to place my #4 at the beginning of the wide stretch with no luck. A #5 Camalot would have been ideal and a #6 midway up would have been excellent. I waited to place my #4 until the crack started narrowing back down. By then, I was looking at a runout of approximately 35 feet while making what felt like 5.8+ moves. The moral of the story is that you should have a #4, #5 and a #6 Camalot to adequately protect the wide areas of the flake. I realize that is a lot of rack weight. However, I just can't imagine a novice leader on that pitch without adequate protection.
Also, the belay stances at the end of pitch #2 & #3 were very uncomfortable and challenging in regards to rope management and protection. At both stations, I had my second anchor in about 5-10 feet below me to alleviate space, stance and rope handling issues. Again, in my opinion, I think novice leaders would be challenged with these issues.
That being said, I thought this was a wonderful route. The experience certainly solidified my admiration of Layton Kor's vision and spirit.
Don't let the 5.7 rating "sandbag" you! Be prepared with the proper protection and under the right weather conditions. If in doubt, do Mainliner, which I thought was a lot safer and more relaxing than Kor's Flake.
By jacktheburro
From: Denver
May 22, 2007
For all of you sickos who say big gear isn't necessary- y'all crazy. I didn't even lead the third pitch on this, and I was nervous just watching my buddy crank the offwidth sections. I would suggest, to anyone who loves getting solid gear in, to bring at least one #6 Camalot, at least one #5, and perhaps a few Big Bros. Trust me, you'll be glad you brought the extra weight. Otherwise it's going to be a nerve-wracking pitch for the leader.
That being said, it's an awesome route and should not be missed.
By Ji Paradis
Jul 28, 2007
|I lead KF on 7-24-07 (it was my partner's rest day). Great climb. 5.7+ is about right (mentally, a 5.8, if you don't do OWs). Coming from Boston 4 days earlier, we were definitely sucking air. But this is the best 5.7 I've ever done. The OW runout was a surprise, but pretty solid despite the runout, with right leg in and left leg out. Plenty of places to rest by slotting yourself in. There are two decent #2, #3, stopper placements just inside the flake edge up about 30 ft from the lower angle flake section. At the transition out of the flake, a No. 3 Camalot was marginally useful (a #4 or 5 would have been better). The rest of the climb is grandly structured, with great gear. Don't pass this one by. Plenty of trees to rap off of into the gully to the right. Viva Kor. JP
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This route is why you have a trad rack. This is the reason to climb trad. Amazing rock, wild exposure, nut numbing runout, it's all there!
Besides the #4 cam (used three times) and #3 RP (only pro on the face of the OW), I found Tricams to be very useful in general. I just have the lowest four, but used them quite a bit. Instead of bringing your big cams and Bros, just bring your two big nuts :-P
Oh, and when you get to the hand traverse, throw your head back and SCREAM your thanks to Kor!
By allen light
Aug 30, 2007
|My #2 Camalot was left at a belay after the wide pitch. I'm willing to buy it back from anyone who finds it. 903-821-7070.
By Josh Giblin
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 12, 2008
I just returned from a four day trip to Boulder with KF being the climb we most wanted and most feared, based on the description and the weather when we got there. The overcast skies almost turned us around just paces from the sign for the Sundance trail. We are SO glad we stuck to it!
This climb was worth every penny. From beginning to end, this route hardly let up and was exhilarating. The namesake flake was a piece of work due to altitude, layers and emerging sun. We had a #4 cam, but its placement sure took its sweet time coming. A 5 or even 6 would make this much less intimidating, but if you're comfy in a chimney don't let the lack of pro stop you. The belay after the chimney was nothing but views of the snowy mounts of Long's Peak and its neighbors, and was priceless.
The exposed hand traverse after the flake is not to be missed. I also managed to easily clean a hex on the easy climbing at the top. Booty! We ended up rapping off our own sling to reach the two fixed tree rappels lower down. It was a long day though - almost 11 hours car to car - and boy was that parking lot a welcome sight!
Prepare for a long day, one which will test your mettle as a 5.7 leader but reward you with a climb you will remember for a long time to come.
By - - -
Jul 25, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|We brought a number 5 and 6 C4, but I didn't place the number five. The six came in handy though. All these comments make it sound a lot harder and scarier than we found it.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wow, all the comments here really scared me. Other sites had this listed as a 5.8R. I did this today and didn't think it was harder than other 5.7s in the area. In fact, aside from the original grunt to get off the ground, this one did not seem bad at all.
I did bring a #6 BD Cam and walked it up most of the flake pitch (combined pitch 2 and 3). With a number 6 cam it isn't run out at all. Aside from the walked cam, I left a #5 a bit lower down and placed a few more pieces in the flake.... Not at all scary. I admit, without a #6 it would be far scarier and run out.
For the way down, we found a slung tree with a rap ring (off and to the right above the descent gully). I added a carabiner to back up the ring and rapped with a 60m rope down to a small ledge where someone left an anchor with 3 nuts, webbing, and 2 biners. The rap from there took us to the ground and then a rather unpleasant walk down through bushes until it turned into more of a trail. (Note, there is a slung rock with a rap ring about 10 feet above the 3 nut anchor. Don't use it if you have a 60m rope. You can get to the nuts and from there the rope just barely reaches the ground.)
Long hike in... long day, amazing route, lots of fun! Don't let the comments here scare you. If you are worried about run out, bring a #6 cam and do this route!
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 23, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Having read all the beta here, I have to admit I was more than a bit apprehensive about this one. Having done it now, I would say most of the comments are spot on. Getting stuck in the chimney of the offwidth is not for me. I used a variety of layback, stemming, and face techniques to get up it on lead. I even reached out to the corner/arete several times. Despite the warnings, it is protectable. I placed a #4, then a #5, then a #6. Then, soon as the OW ended, I plugged a #3. It is however, still a bit runout on some tricky moves. Save some smaller gear for the hanging belay though. I felt the traverse to be easy, but after the roof, there are some tough moves.
An incredible route. It has everything and you can't get better scenery the RMNP.
I'll have to try this again someday when it's not wet and see if feels more like a 5.7!
By GMBurns
Sep 24, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
|P3 requires #5 or #6 Camalots.
By David Yount
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kor's Flake 5.7+ 5P G **** - Sundance Buttress - Lumpy Ridge - Colorado.
Hike west a little over 3 easy miles on a wide trail from the parking lot, turning right at a sign for Sundance (Buttress), continue for about 30 minutes steeply uphill, with some talus block scrambling. Locate the beginning of the route about 200 feet left, west, uphill from a huge block leaning against the face.
A #3 Big Bro fits nicely as the crack widens in Pitch 3. A #4 Big Bro fits well 10 feet later. A #5 Big Bro fits well another 8 feet. Then a Camalot old #3.5 or old #4 fits at the top as the crack reduces from a squeeze chimney width to an offwidth crack. With appropriate protection pieces, this pitch has no runnout.
Fall 2008 there is a rope in good condition with a rap ring and a runner higher up likely for a good handhold, in the back of the squeeze chimney Pitch 3. Unless you're very small you'll need to swing a cam to fetch the rope. No idea how the rope is secured?!?!
I began the squeeze with chimney technique, then 1/3 the way up, placing the #4 Big Bro, I got out of the crack a bit and face climbed to the left, finally used the left side of crack and the far left arete in a comfortable bear hug.
Descent. After reaching Class 3 territory, continue scrambling up and right, then slightly down, reaching the major saddle. The descent goes through this saddle, going down the backside of the Sundance Buttress. Now through the saddle, there are several trees on the right, fine for a single rope rappel and 2 or more of these trees will likely be equipped with webbing and ring. Prefer a tree furthest right, perhaps 60 feet from the saddle, requiring some exposed ledge walking. A single rope rappel brings you nicely to a large ledge, with several trees, some likely equipped with webbing and ring. A second single rope rappel brings you to the ground, with a trail which follows the base of the rock down, around, and back up beneath the huge block leaning against the front face and finally up to the start of the route.
By Phill T
May 18, 2009
|Hike in was about an hour and a half. Awesome route. There is a rap/belay station at the beginning of the wideness of pitch 3. We had a #5 and my partner did not place it on the flake pitch, he wishes he had a #6 though. Scary watching him run it out grunting up the flake, I followed using much easier face/layback/stemming, but no chance I would be doing that on lead with 40 feet of runout. The 'pro' rope was still hanging in the back of the crack, but we couldn't get to it The p4 hand traverse was straight awesome, SUPER huge jugs in the back, 1 move and you are secure feet, crank up one move into the hand crack for an awesome rest and fire the rest. Belay on the right under the final roof with larger nuts and mid sized cams (used 2 #13 nuts and a #1 C4). Crank the roof and it goes to 5.3 slabbing out til the summit. Have fun!
By Nick Flatley
Jun 18, 2009
Sweet climb. can be done in 3 pitches with a 60m rope. just run the full length of rope on pitch one, same as next pitch. you belay just past the end of the flake. Then run the rope to easier ground above the hand crack and roof.
Great climb. Super classic. didn't bring a camelot 4, 5, or a 6. Biggest gear was a BD Camelot 3, I just ran it all out on the flake.
By Stacy Bender
Jul 12, 2009
My wife and I climbed Kors Flake over the weekend. My good shoes were in the shop getting a resole, so I wore a backup pair that did not have the Five Ten Stealth rubber Im used to. Luckily, I had placed a #6 Wild Country at the start of the crux off-width chimney, because as I worked up outside of the off-width, six feet up from the WC, one foot slipped and I came off. We were using a new Edelweiss 9.6 mm rope, which is still pretty slick. So, with a little slack in the rope, rope stretch, and a hard jerk when I came tight on the rope which pulled a little more rope out as my wife tried hard to break the fall, I tumbled down the flake around 25 feet. One elbow was cut pretty bad, and I had a deep chunk of skin cut out of one hand, along with a half dozen other lesser injuries, and my wife burnt the crap out of her hands breaking the fall. Still feeling relatively OK, we finished the climb. This time I climbed well into the off-width to avoid a repeat slip.
This is a great climb, but I think its very important to have something big to protect the crux. While there are supposed to be incipient cracks around, I dont remember seeing any small pro opportunities, and personally, I have found that the #5 & 6 WC are extremely reliable.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
What marv-a-losity! First-time Lumpy climber still gathering in his jaw. Heady 5.7
Forget the six-pitch suggestion; do this sucker in an alpine-lite four and save yourselves some grief. (More rope drag, yes. But in the high(ish)country, time can be your bigger enemy.) We were packing a 70m spaghetti noodle, but the team above us said they were doing the same description below with a 60m rope. Y'all correct the ignorant if'n I'm wrong, I'm sure.
P1-squeeze that opening chimney, gather ye sack and pop LEFT of the (F'ing steller 5.8ish?) chockstone with super fun, super generous underclings, then immediately start unpacking the slings, humping up and right, up and right, over awkward but easily protected, rightward-leaning ledges, not even thinking about stopping until you reach the bottom of the magic. Set camp.
P2-Look up and witness doom. KIDDING! The long, low(ish)-angled 5.7ish flake/crack system/ramp/OW is 100+ feet of pure joy. Take it ALL in one gulp. Protects like a mutha for the first and last third (hey...they said this was run out?), but that middle OW section will spike your blood pressure if you're used to cozily spaced bolts. Still, leave the OW technique and the #6 at home--instead, say "no" to tunnel vision, stay out in the sun and stem wildly, delicately (but fairly easily) off both walls and/or get some of the finest bear hugs with max exposure off that left ramp and keep your head until you can jam a THANKGOD #5 (or #4, if you can wait another 3 meters).
IMPORTANT NOTE ON PRO: No one yet has mentioned it; everyone must be spelunking hard for that deep, seemingly critical #6 slot buried in the largest pocket of the OW, BUT IF YOU STAY HIGH AND ON THE OUTSIDE, there is at one brief but critical point, a blessedly perfect, short, vertical flake/crack that emerges on the right wall (it's usually chalked, so SOMEBODY is using it, a bit above and before the deepest fissure) that suckes up a yellow(?) Alien like you were desperate to hang a Cadillac. Slot that baby(or a .75ish Camalot) deep and you effectively cut the big bad runout by halfish. Keeps the rope high and out of the crack, too. No prob. Sunshine smiling.
P3-Take that freaky, blocky, vertical dihedral at 11 O'clock to the very short but OSHIT traverse left (sink those fingers deep and you'll find handcrack perfection) and then 10+ meters up the 5.6 crack system to the obvious belay ledge before the obvious roof. It's all so obvious!
P4-Sail the 5.3 roof (OK, it's not THAT easy...but far, far less intimidating once you start jamming easy fists up in there...) and then take whatever slabby, nubby, 5.3-5.6 features to the top. Then make sure your will is in order and downclimb the backside. YIKES! Unless I was wicked offroute, it's far more desperate than that silly OW.
Epilogue: I'm not sure why anyone today (meaning we most of us all climb with longer cords) would break that baby up into 6 short, time-consuming pitches. As described, a leader can jam two, possibly three perfect cams BEFORE the runout, eliminating falls onto the anchor.
And? OK, Bring the BIG gear if you're squeamish. But? If'n you're a budding 5.7/5.8 leader, then a committing, runout, OW Lumpy multipitch is PROBABLY not where you belong. Just sayin'.
Anyone plugging and chugging 5.9s should be able to tackle the rampy 5.7 runout without chucking their lunch. ESPECIALLY if they find that yellow Alien placement. Honest, for all the hype, I thought the "walk-off" (base jump off?) the backside had more pucker factor than the mighty, mighty OW everyone kept squawking about.
That's just my take. Be safe, enjoy.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Aug 2, 2009
|So I have read all the above comments about the scary 30-foot runout offwidth on Kor's Flake. I really want to do this climb in Sept. but Im not crazy about running it out that far into unknown terrain so I picked up a #4 Big Bro and #6 Camalot (previous biggest gear was #4 Camalot) just for this climb. Did I get the right size of gear? In the East we don't do many off-widths.
By Rob R.
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 4, 2009
|I just climbed this with a friend, and I followed the SQ pitch. Climbing on the face is nice as a follower, but my partner found himself in the crack pushing a #5. I think your #6, in conjunction with the notes on the vertical crack on the right (above), will make things more comfortable for you. Not sure how useful the Big Bro will be.
By Colin Kenneth
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First off...You don't need anything larger than a #3 Camalot. 2 of them is not a terrible idea. There are hardly any placements parallel enough that a #6 would stay in place anyway, the rock kind of undulates. We brought one #4, and I placed it at the first opportunity I could, but there were more solid #3 placements only a few feet higher. At that point, I was completely behind the flake, nowhere to fall, and already 60 feet off the belay. 3 feet is really inconsequential and a #4 isn't required anywhere else on the entire climb.
If you are climbing inside the chimney, the only place you will fall is further in. If you are shooting for that "easy face climbing," it is paid for with the greater risk. It is your call. In my opinion, even if you take the large gear to use while climbing up the face, it's going to be terrifying to try to lean in far enough to place it.
We used a 70m and connected the first and second, I started on the (guidebook) 3rd. I found a #3 stopper placement, but about 40 feet up, but it was just to goof off. I was wedged in there so well that I used both hands to get my camera out of my buttoned back pocket and take the photos in the gallery.
Don't get me wrong, it is not easy. And if you are in the chimney, you will be safer, but be you need to be responsible and willing to pay child support someday, because you and that rock are going to be INTIMATE. I am not telling anyone to run up there unprepared...just that if you don't HAVE anything larger than a few #3s or don't want to carry big pieces up that stupid approach, you don't need to, and you can still be perfectly safe.
The one thing keeping this from being "classic" in my opinion, is the short pitches after the namesake flake. The (guidebook) 4th is nice and exposed, a couple of tricky moves then a nice crack. The final pitch is 10 feet of climbing with a cool roof, but then typical Lumpy 5.0 slab to the top. Left me a little hot and bothered after all of the work up. (you know?)
We found 2 rap slings pretty much straight over from where we made the summit. WAAAAAAAAAAAAY better than scrambing down the back of the saddle. From the first sling down the gully to the 2nd could JUST be done with a 60m, but we had a 70m. The last rap is easily done with either. The rest of the descent was still just a really long walk off.
By nruea
From: . . . CO
Jun 26, 2010
Our thoughts:
Bring a #3, 4, 5, 6 Camalot, and a small regular rack.
The #4, 5, 6 can be placed to keep from too long a RO in the "squeeze" on P3 - and stay out of that darn thing, it's pretty easy and you'll find gear on the opposing wall.
P4 is the best by far. Run the rope up thru the upper (small) roof to a good belay stance, and enjoy a nice, lengthy pitch of sustained 5.7/6 on quality stone with fun exposure, good gear and crack jammin'.
The trail is looking pretty good and all the signage is up. It took us nearly 2 moderately-paced hours from the new parking lot (thanks for that extra up-n-down hour round-trip hike, RMNP!).
By Paul Szymanski
From: Park Ridge, Illinois
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
|I did not like this route at all. The approach is long. The squeeze requires large pieces for protection cams 5 and 6 or Bigbros. It is not fun at all unless you like runouts. I have heard that some people use Nalgene bottles to protect the squeeze. There is a rope that can be used as a pro. Nobody knows how this rope is attached to the rock, but it is quite useful. I liked pitch 2 and 4. The rest of them are not worth the effort. The descent is easier if you rappel from the tree. It is a classic and must be done, but I was disappointed by this route.
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Everyone has to give their opinion, so I will too. Stop now if you don't want beta.
We did this today in 4 pitches w/ a 60m rope and zero simul, the last pitch being gimme 5.easy. The 1st 3 pitches were awesome IMO. Long, good gear, fun climbing, great position and every pitch has multiple classic moves. I led the offwidth and had one #3, one #4 and one #6. I pushed the number six for a while and then got bored and left it behind in a solid placement. Higher up near the end of the OW the #4 goes in perfectly, then the #3. You could place a #5 somewhere in there if you wanted to. I've been climbing a lot of OW this summer (I do like them) and it would be an easy Vedauwoo 6. Lots of rests with chest, knee, leg, heal-toe whatever. A few chicken wings or arm bars, a little chimney technique, lots of cheater edges and a perfect fist jam pulling out of it at the top. I took pictures with both hands on lead. My partner doesn't like OW as much as me and quickly followed the pitch as a lieback. I just don't think the pitch is R rated. If you don't climb a lot of OW, take more big gear to sew it up and DON'T go in far enough to even think about using that old rope. Part of your body should be out of the crack. Right side in and rack the big cams and a few slings on a shoulder runner and you're golden.
Hardest part of the day was finding the descent for the first time at Sundance!
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jun 1, 2011
For future guidebooks:
FA: Layton Kor and Chuck Alexander.
By Alex Washburne
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
5.7+ PG-13 with the rack described. Sure, the fall on p3 would be "only farther in the slot" (claustrophobes beware... or anybody who has rational fears of being trapped and injured in a granite crevasse) or "not on the anchor" (= factor < 2) if you slide down outside the OW, but either way a fall at the crux OW by a leader carrying only up to a #4 would almost definitely end in injury. If you have big-enough Big-bros and a #6, then you can make it G.
For p3, definitely save the #2 Metolius/0.4 BD for that flake on the right face (as mentioned above, it could hold a Cadillac... provided it doesn't pry off the flake in the event of a fall). I even doubled up a #1 and #2 Metolius in a magic-X for some highly desired peace of mind.
Again: treat this as a 5.7+ PG-13 unless you have gargantuan pro. Don't let strong climbers with a very different level of acceptable risk trick you into thinking this is an easy climb (less than 5.8!) with only a "mild" runout. To the champ who made this page (thanks! the topo was spot-on and greatly appreciated), I'd recommend the either changing the pro-rating or the recommended rack.
By mikeo
Jul 1, 2011
|Took up to a number 4 and wish I had my 5 and 6 on the flake pitch. I don't enjoy climbing slab and OW 30-40 ft up with no pro (kept going in and out of OW). Also, did the route in 3 pitches with a 70m, so no way it is 900 ft. We started late and got hailed on and hit by 70 mph winds on the last pitch, the frightening exposure for us was the lightning striking nearby. Luckily this last pitch ended in a gully where we got hit by a waterfall but were not as exposed to the hail/wind/lightening. Route was fun but don't start at 11am like we did unless you climb fast.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jul 18, 2011
So much hype about this route.... I'm going to try and get on it next week. I have singles to number 6 but access to another full set up to #6 in addition to a full set of Big bros if I want to borrow them. Is there anywhere to place a Big bro? I don't mind running it out 10-20' if I'm secure.
The only other offwidth I've done is the Ruper in Eldo, but I stayed outside of the crack. Opinions?
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jul 18, 2011
Well, in my opinion, you need a set to #4 and some determination.
You'll be fine.
By Kevin Wieczorek
Jul 24, 2011
Despite the rather large number of comments, Ill add another. I did this climb for the second time yesterday. The first time I swapped leads with my partner. He agreed to lead the chimney (he seems to enjoy groveling). We had only up to Number 4 C4s. It is runout without big gear, and I probably would have felt a lot better in the chimney than climbing the face. However, I was wearing the pack and could not fit into it.
This time I led all the pitches and borrowed a number 5 and 6 C4. With the big gear, you can shuttle the cams up the chimney and off-width sections. I would wedge myself in securely, then move the cam (either the 5 or the 6 which ever fit better) from below my waist to head level, and then move up, and repeat. I didnt leave the number 5 until I was past the old rope in the back of the flake (maybe 1/3 or 1/2 way up the flake). The number 6 was left shortly after that. I would recommend you take an honest assessment of your confidence with runout, moderate chimney and off-width climbing, and bring gear to suit your comfort level. I know how to climb chimneys (if you have good technique it feels very moderate, definitely not harder than 5.7), but I would not have liked running it out as my partner did last time. As long as your actions do not affect the experience of those who follow you, climb it any way you want to, pull on gear, aid sections, or sew it up, etc. It is better to bring a piece and not place it than to really want it and not have it. Consider hauling those big cams training weight for even bigger objectives. The goal should be to have fun and get back on X-axis safely. Dont let peer pressure or the worry of not measuring up to other peoples standards lure you into a situation beyond your level of risk acceptance.
Oh, and this is one of the best 5.7s I have ever climbed. It offers a huge variety of climbing styles and techniques. Super fun and worth the approach.
By Sarge
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
|Pitch 3 does not have adequate pro. Bring big cams to feel comfortable. If you bring big cams (#5), you can stay out of the off-width, not a chimney.
By Ryan Stefani
Oct 3, 2011
It's been said before, but it bears repeating: bring a #5 and/or #6 for the chimney/off-width. Without those, it can be a bit heady.
If you don't have any big gear, you can actually stay in the OW for nearly the whole thing until you can the decent #3 at the end of it. I speak from recent experience. :)
By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bring a #6 or #5, and a #4,
You'll be happy you did. I wish I had a big cam, I had 1-#4, and it didn't feel like enough. The route's not cool enough to justify a 40+ foot runout. Risk reward, people!
By Canon
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spectacular climb. Link P1 and P2 all the way up the left-leaning ramp to the start of the business on P3. There's currently a lot of slung webbing at a good belay stance. For P3, someone said to rack all of your gear on your left side. DO THIS. The flake is really very secure, and there's nothing heady about it since its so tight. Used two #4 Camalots and never placed the #5, thinking I would use it when things got really spicy...but then it was over. The hand traverse on P4 protects with either a #4 or #5.
I would not bring a #5 if I did it again. You'll hate your life if you bring a #6!
By Fehim Hasecic
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2013
|If it's your first time on the OW take bigger pro, C4 #5 works good, #6 would be even better, and stay in the OW.
By farkas.time
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
|Despite rumor of mid-way pro, the upper half of the flake is hugely run out with rack up to #4 C4. If leading this: 1) be solid at 5.9, and 2) don't climb it in the heat/sun -- it's a friction/stemming slab climb with very few proper holds. Going IN the OW seemed like a bad idea to me -- I climbed on the outside of the flake. The 60m of climbing following the flake was 5.7 PHENOMENAL. Enjoy.
By Joe Pyle
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Apr 21, 2014
Amazing, stellar climb on Lumpy. Do Mr. Kor a favor and stay in the crack. It goes well. It was a pleasure climbing this route on the one-year-anniversary of his death. Proud line.
A 60m rope will get you three long pitches, and it's not bad at all. Enjoy.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Great route. Horrible descent. Oh wow. The descent was half the adventure!
But yeah, the 4th pitch was amazing (especially in 20mph gusts!). And the 3rd pitch was great OW practice (yes, I got stuck in there). On the OW section, I'd say a PG13 with just a #5, my partner ran it out 30ft with a #5. With no #5, holy crap, I have no idea. I bet with a #5 and #6 it'd be pretty safe! So it's up to you what to bring.
Great route though! I'd say more heady then Bastille (as a comparison). More exposure, more run-out, more committing....
By Jon Roelofs
Jun 24, 2014
|Climbed this on Sunday 6/22. Midway up the namesake pitch, a red #1 C4 jumped off my rack and landed somewhere near the top of pitch 1. If you find it, I would trade a 6-pack for the pleasure of having it back (for nostalgia's sake... I wouldn't trust climbing on it after a fall like that).
By Dan McCabe
Jul 28, 2014
|My 14 year old son and I climbed the route last week. Without a doubt, one of the best moderate, multi-pitch rock climbs I have ever done. The flake is very easily protected and the two final leads are outstanding. There is certainly a bit of 5.8 mixed in just to keep us all humbled that Kor was the real deal, but every pitch is well protected and classic.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 18, 2014
|Very happy that I took a #6 on this one. We found a well-equipped series of rappels on the descent. From the top out, we walked about 20 m around to the right and spotted a large tree with multiple slings and rap rings. A 25 m rappel with an easy pendulum to climber's left led to another well-equipped tree anchor. A second 29m rappel to a good ledge, followed by 10m of easy walking, to a final 25m rappel put us on easy terrain and an obvious trail back to the base.
By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Aug 30, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
I just got home after doing this classic climb today, and while I agree that the climb itself is spectacular, I found the hike in/out and the descent to really detract from the day overall. I'm certainly not in the best shape, but the trail that branches off the main trail leading to Sundance is worthy of its own segment in a hiking guide. That thing is hard.
The descent is easy with the rap stations, but I still had jelly legs from the hike in and found the trail leading down really unpleasant, with a lot of loose dirt making it slippery and insecure.
I'm not a seasoned hiker, but everyone else has commented on the difficulty and awesomeness of the route, all of which I agree with, but don't write off the approach and descent.
By Steve Jones
Sep 14, 2014
|Big gear or no fear...are pretty much the choices. We climbed the off-width flake without ever getting in it. Used a #5, #6 and a blue Big Bro. There is a marginal, shallow red tri-cam placement and an even shallower #3 RP where the widest section begins, so you could skip the Big Bro if that shallow gear is solid enough for you. Moderately polished but still a good climb. Challenging for the grade. My partner suggests not getting a PMS girl on this route who doesn't love squeeze chimneys and off-widths. She may be right, but then the world (and I'm pretty sure the world heard it) would have missed all that fine growling and cussing.
By bonnie bonbits
From: colorado front range
Mar 19, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
|^ Still chuckling over the growling and cussing bits above. :) I climbed this back in June 2014. For the record, you can easily link the first two pitches with a 60m. Oh, it's a rope stretcher for sure, but it can easily be done and with little rope drag. and as for the flake bit, I honestly say leave the #6 at home. I'm not quite sure where some have found it to fit without being tipped out??? Honestly, for it's boat anchor size, no bomber placement, and the gruelingly lengthy approach, you'll be happy you left it and borrowed and brought that blue Big Bro instead (and this coming from a girl who leads most everything hauling a double rack to #4!). Once you get into the flake, you can place a bomber #5. After that, only a tipped out #6 or beautifully placed blue Big Bro will fit until you make it to the top of the flake, where a #4 (or perhaps a #3) will protect you as you pull up onto the slab ledge belay for the fourth pitch (or, in our case, the 3rd). If you don't have that Big Bro, or if you're not cool with a tipped out #6, the flake will likely feel and truthfully be, a bit run out. Luckily I'm 5'2" and tiny, so the flake engulfed the whole right side of my body (I faced out, with my back to the wall). I figured if I fell, the only way I'd actually go anywhere was if I were to cartwheel out left (climber's right), and I wasn't about to bust out any acrobatics. Actually, I was more concerned with the irrational fear of falling straight down into the flake and getting wedged like a fat Santa in a squeeze chimney, and yes, I saw daylight while in there, and I don't believe it was my life flashing before my eyes. This route was even more fun than I imagined it would be! Then again I dig OWs, 4s, battle axes, and boat anchors.
By Dalton201
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 22, 2015
|I leap frogged a #5 and #6 for most of the chimney. I follow the "keep 2 pieces between you and the hospital" mentality. Unless you feel comfortable soloing chimneys, take at least one each of these.
By Eric Thomas
From: Colorado
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I found leapfrogging a #5 and #6 was not working well. The #6 had good contact all the way, but the #5 would be good for one spot and then bumping up put it into a marginal placement.
If I did the wide crack pitch again, I'd protect the lower wide crack with two #6s and the top wide crack with two #4s.
By J P
From: Denver, CO
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
On the above suggestions, we took a rack of assorted nuts, C3s, double C4s to 3, a 4, a 5, as well as a yellow Totem.
It was too much gear, singles in cams would have probably been sufficient, though the 3, 4, and 5 were all handy sizes to have. As I got into the flake, I placed the 5 where it fit low and then realized there was another decent place for it about 10 more feet up.
I climbed the flake with my back to the rock, as Bonnie above did. I don't have a ton of OW experience, so it got a little desperate about 1/2-2/3 of the way up the flake, and I tried jamming a size 0 C3 into a pin scar on the back side of the flake that I was facing. Only two lobes fit. What I didn't realize is that I was right at the crack everyone else mentioned. Had I turned my head around, I could have placed a bomber piece (yellow Alien, or something similar).
Needless to say, the #4 at the end of the flake was a Godsend.
The roof move before the final pitch looks more intimidating than it climbs. The holds are there, and the sequence is fun.
By ChrisS2000
Aug 7, 2017
|Trying not to post redundant gear beta because there are so many posts already, but the P3 description "Adequate pro can be had in incipient cracks" is straight up wrong, and X-rated dangerous. I was looking hard and did not see any incipient cracks. If you don't bring larger than a #4 Camalot, you will be free soloing the crux 50ft above the belay. I think Grand Giraffe with one #4 Camalot and small gear is totally fine, but I am very scared leading Kor's flake without larger. That being said, amazing climb.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2017
I'll fix the description. I first led this many years ago (late '90s?) when I was a 5.9/10- leader. I stemmed the outside of the crack, placed a piece of small gear every 20 feet or so (you really have to look around, and you have to be stemming the crack, not squeezing into it) and felt okay with it, but yeah, you're still looking at 50 foot falls with near-certain injury. So, you're right that "adequate" is not the right word.
I went back and led it again years later and stayed in the squeeze the whole way. I felt this was totally reasonable, and a lot safer, even with nothing larger than a #4, because I felt I couldn't fall out of the squeeze even if I wanted to. It was just hard to make progress, as with most tight squeezes.


text:
NetWellness is a global, community service providing quality, unbiased health information from our partner university faculty. NetWellness is commercial-free and does not accept advertising.
Thursday, September 21, 2017
Mental Health
Handling Childhood Agression
My 3-year-old has been violent towards teachers and other kids at his daycare for the past few days. There haven`t been any changes at home, and I asked the daycare if there have been any changes and they say there haven`t been. If he gets in trouble one more time they are going to kick him out of the daycare. I am not sure what to do. Please help.
Physical aggression by young children is certainly a difficult problem for everyone to deal with, parents and teachers alike. Aggressive behavior comes from at least three sources:
- normal developmental drives
- problems in mental health
- and learned behavior.
Aggressive behavior that does not physically harm others is actually normal among toddlers and preschoolers, with boys showing more physical aggression and girls tending to show more verbal aggression and socially isolating other children, much as they do in grade school and later. Aggression is a way in which young children learn about who they are and about social limits since their age-mates usually set limits on each other's behavior.
Like older children and adults, young children have a full range of feelings about what happens to them and what is happening around them at home and in daycare and school settings. Very young children lack the verbal skills to say it rather than act it out. They may not know any words for the mad and sad they feel. As Dixon and Stein note in their 2006 book, Encounters with Children, 4th edition, the distances between mad, sad, and bad behavior are short indeed.
Physical aggression may also reflect limited verbal skills due to developmental delay that makes it very difficult for the young child to express in words the frustration, anger and sadness he or she feels. The only outlet, then, is physical behavior, which may be hurtful to self or to others. It sounds as though this is a new behavior based on your saying it has occurred only within the past few days. If this is true, and the physical assaults only occur in daycare, this suggests that something new is happening at daycare that is provoking the aggressive behavior from your son.
Despite our children being human beings, they are not born with good social behaviors and empathy. The adults in their lives have to teach them the rules for getting along with their fellow humans. Our children learn both good social skills and undesirable social skills from their parents. There is a large body of research that shows that even young children, such as your son, imitate the violent, aggressive actions they see at home between adult role models as well as on TV and videos, and in video games. They imitate these harmful coping behaviors reliably in response to things that make them feel sad or mad.
It is important to take your child to his doctor or ask for a referral to an early childhood mental health specialist if your son's aggression:
- results in bodily harm to others
- is occurring with greater frequency than before
- occurs in many settings such as home, daycare, and in the community
- is people-focused rather than object-focused (hitting out at other children or teachers as opposed to fighting over a toy).
Other signs of disguised anger and aggression include loss of bowel control in a previously potty-trained child, smearing stool, intentional destruction of objects, intentional harming of oneself, willful harm to animals.
If the behavior is new and limited to daycare, ask the daycare staff to please work with you. Have them keep a diary of what is happening when your son hits a teacher or a classmate. This may help to identify what is leading to his angry behavior. They may find that he acts out to gain their attention or his classmates' attention because he feels ignored; even punishment is better than being ignored to many a young child. Also, ask the teachers to verbally recognize him when he is being good, when he shares or plays well with others, and to ignore any undesirable behaviors that are not important to correct. Positive reinforcement is very effective in getting children to display more good behavior.
As always, these tough issues are good ones to seek help with from your child's doctor or nurse practitioner. We are as interested in the child's mental and social health and development as we are in the child's physical health and development. Parents should not feel alone in the very important job of caring for their children. I hope this information is helpful.
Mary M Gottesman, PhD, RN, CPNP, FAAN
Professor of Clinical Nursing
College of Nursing
The Ohio State University

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Cecil, Jeffress make Blue Jays' Opening Day roster
DUNEDIN, Fla. -- Relievers Brett Cecil and Jeremy Jeffress were informed on Wednesday morning that they have made the Blue Jays' Opening Day roster.
Cecil and Jeffress entered camp competing for one spot in the bullpen, but the club has opted to start the year with eight relievers now that third baseman Brett Lawrie will begin the season on the disabled list.
Both relievers were informed of Toronto's decision during individual meetings with pitching coach Pete Walker and manager John Gibbons.
"When I was in there and they told me I was on the team, it wasn't a sigh of relief, it just made me want to work that much harder," Cecil said. "To be told that I was on a big league team that's got a good chance to be in the playoffs, a good chance to be in the World Series, is pretty awesome.
"It just pumped me up even more to work harder in my workouts, work harder in my 'pens, and have a lot more conviction during the game, the better to make sure I stay here."
Even though the 25-man roster is set, the competition between Cecil and Jeffress is far from over. When Lawrie returns from a strained right oblique muscle, the Blue Jays are expected to carry only seven relievers.
That likely will result in either Cecil or Jeffress being cut from the team. Both relievers are currently out of options on their contract and cannot be sent to the Minors without first clearing waivers. The battle will continue, but for now the Blue Jays have at least bought themselves some extra time.
"Going in, they could both pitch any time," Gibbons said. "It gives us an extra arm. They get a chance to show us what they can do. You never know how this game works out, but I believe there's some guys who aren't too far off being ready to go, either. Everybody who's in that bullpen has got to be productive."
Even though the 25-man roster has yet to be officially announced, Toronto has decided which players will head north barring any last-minute injuries. In addition to Cecil and Jeffress, the bullpen will include Casey Janssen, Sergio Santos, Darren Oliver, Steve Delabar, Esmil Rogers and Aaron Loup.
The starting rotation features R.A. Dickey, Brandon Morrow, Mark Buehrle, Josh Johnson and J.A. Happ. Toronto will, at least temporarily, go with a three-man bench that includes utility man Mark DeRosa, outfielder Rajai Davis and veteran catcher Henry Blanco.
The starting nine is set to feature Jose Reyes, Melky Cabrera, Jose Bautista, Edwin Encarnacion, Adam Lind, J.P. Arencibia, Colby Rasmus, Emilio Bonifacio and Maicer Izturis.
Gregor Chisholm is a reporter for MLB.com. Read his blog, North of the Border, and follow him on Twitter @gregorMLB. Adam Berry is a reporter for MLB.com. Follow him on Twitter at @adamdberry. This story was not subject to the approval of Major League Baseball or its clubs.


text: Show Hide image Politics 17 May 2013 S&P downgrades credit rating of Berkshire Hathaway Seen as a major setback for billionaire investor Warren Buffett. Sign up for our weekly email * The ratings agency Standard & Poor's (S&P) has downgraded credit rating of Warren Buffett's Berkshire Hathaway from AA+ to AA, citing the conglomerate holding company's over dependence on its insurance operations for dividend income. The agency's downgrading is seen as a major setback for billionaire investor Warren Buffett, who built $277bn worth of businesses around an insurance firm. Apart from the management succession plan at Berkshire Hathaway, S&P highlighted Warren Buffett's preference for large stock holdings in a small number of companies, and huge contribution to earnings of the company's railroad business Burlington Northern Santa Fe as long-term risk factors. Burlington Northern Santa Fe is currently the only noninsurance subsidiary company. Eric Hedman of S&P's insurance ratings told the Financial Times that "what that means is that they have a very unique individual, Warren Buffett, who continues to run the company". The ratings agency further added that Berkshire Hathaway has very strong financial risk profile. Earlier this month, Buffett said that the company's board had found his successor. Rodney Clark, managing director of insurance ratings at S&P, told the Wall Street Journal that the ratings firm wanted to make it clear that the cut didn't result "from a deterioration of Berkshire or its performance. That's not the case." The rating is likely to have marginal effect on Berkshire Hathaway in the near future. Berkshire Hathaway, which oversees and manages several subsidiary companies, has cash reserves of $49bn. Subscribe from just £1 per issue More


text:
ROBINS asset Simon Stead praised Alun Rossiter's motivational skills after Great Britain's World Cup Event One success on Saturday.
Swindon team boss Rossiter's most controversial selection was arguably that of Stead, but the Leicester man repaid his faith as he scored 10 vital points at the Norfolk Arena to help see off USA and Australia.
Stead, himself coming off two tough seasons to play a major part in guiding Britain through to Saturday's final, credits Rossiter with creating a relaxed atmosphere around the team and convincing his riders of their own ability to win.
"It was an amazing feeling," he said.
"It's been a great lead-up, we just chilled out at the hotel the night before, everybody together, and we relaxed and everything was perfect because the atmosphere within the camp was so good.
"Rosco's installed that belief in us, that's what he's so good at, and that's why he's here. He kept saying 'believe, believe' and it's worked for us.
"We probably weren't favourites and we did get some luck on the day and we got off to a good start.
"Woffy leads by example and is a great credit, an influential member, but the banter and the vibe in the team is maybe worth that extra vital point or two.
"Every single one of us pulled our weight and that's so important going into the final."
Stead's victory over Darcy Ward in heat one on Saturday set the tone for what was to follow, with the Leicester man admitting early track conditions tend to suit his riding style.
"I'm at my strongest when the track's a bit grippier early in the meeting and I started off really well," he said.
"I'm not one for looking at who's in the races but I got my head down and new I had good gate positions when the track was at its most favourable for me.
"I wanted to make sure I got off to a good start, which I did, and to get 10 points is great although the most important thing is getting through."


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Trailer home burns in Gypsum
October 30, 2012
GYPSUM, Colorado – An electrical fire engulfed the interior of a trailer home in Gypsum on Sunday.
Shortly after 1:20 p.m., Vail Public Safety Communications Center received a report of a single-family trailer home on fire. The Eagle County Sheriff's Office, Gypsum Fire Protection District, Greater Eagle Fire Protection District, and Western Eagle County Ambulance District responded to the trailer located at 2798 Gypsum Creek in Gypsum.
Investigators with the Eagle County Sheriff's Office ruled the cause of this fire to be a non-criminal. The residents of the trailer were not home at the time of the incident.


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Looks like things with the Prospect Park reboot of All My Children and One Life to Live are well under way.
It has been reported that Prospect Park has hired former OLTL producer/director Jennifer Pepperman as the One Life to Live reboot's new exective producer.
On the All My Children side, popular fan favorite Vincent Irizarry, who plays the character you love to hate, the devious Dr. David, annunced mere hours ago on his Facebook page that he had reached an agreement with Prospect Park to return to the role.
"Happy to share that I just signed on with Prospect Park for the 'All My Children' reboot! Excited to bring dastardly Dr. David back to life, as he did for so many others, and to see my dear friends in Pine Valley once again. A great, big thank you to all the fans for your tenacity in keeping the hope alive. You're awesome!!!! Let's all keep our fingers crossed together that it becomes a reality."
As of this writing over 4000 of Irizarry's Facebook friends (me included) "liked" this news!
Earlier this week, Lindsay Hartley (Cara, All My Children) announced that she, too, had signed with Prospect Park.
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Rhythms on the River
Additional Information
The spring season of Rhythms on the River is here! Every Thursday starting on March 28th and ending on May 9th, in the River Ranch Town Square from 5:30 to 8:30 PM.
– March 28: Category 6
– April 4: Connie G & Creole Soul
– April 11: Mojeaux
– April 18: Grammy & Latin Grammy Nominated Locos por Juana
– May 2: Louisiana's Music Hall of Fame All Stars
– May 9: Marcia Ball
For more info please call 337-216-6566. No ice chests, please.


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"I needed foundation and direction in my life, and they do a tremendous job here," said Mickey, a self-confessed 57-year-old crack addict who checked herself into the Redemption House Ministries at 2720 Fairfield Ave. in an effort to get clean and sober.
Never heard of Redemption House? Not surprising, since it won't officially exist until a grand reopening later this month. But the fact that the former Wings of Hope Prison Ministry still functions, and that Mickey and the others are able to find refuge there, may itself be a minor holiday miracle.
"(Founder) Linda Kluczinske left, and the place kind of fell apart. There was just one resident, and it was going to close. They needed to address a lot of things," said Tomra "Tomi" Cardin, who since being hired as executive director in August has supervised painting, donation of new furnishings and other improvements to much of the home's interior, strengthened fund-raising efforts, and used her contacts in the criminal justice system and elsewhere to fill the transitional shelter to near-capacity.
The renaming has more to do with legal threats from a similarly named organization in Missouri than with a change in focus, but the new identity is appropriate nevertheless because the "redemption" of people struggling with substance abuse, homelessness or legal problems is the whole point.
Founded by Kluczinske in 1997, most women stay between six months and one year and pay rent of $50 per week if they can. The addicted receive counseling, the unemployed receive job training and all are expected to do chores around the 108-year-old brick mansion, which retains much of its original woodwork and fixtures.
"I've tried it on my own. It doesn't work," said 40-year-old Marisa, who was placed at Redemption House by the courts after a drug-related conviction. Although she hopes Redemption House will help her avoid a relapse, she also hopes for something else of at least equal importance: a reconnection to the faith that once helped her resist self-destructive temptations.
With a background that includes prison ministry, work with Associated Churches of Fort Wayne and Allen County and Faith-Based Mentoring Ministries, which seeks employment for people recently released from prison, has seen first-hand how faith and the spiritual support of others can help restore fragile and even broken lives. That's why the Redemption House offers optional Bible study and other religious components, including job counseling through Faith-Based Mentoring.
Good intentions don't pay the bills, of course. A staff of seven is needed to operate the shelter 24 hours every day, seven days a week, and Redemption House is still thousands of dollars per month short of meeting its needs, Cardin said.
But just as the house's residents are encouraged to believe in a higher power and a better future, Cardin said she, too, has faith things will continue to improve. As the budget allows, additional counselors and caseworkers will be hired and two more rooms renovated – creating space for another six residents.
And that, in turn, would give Allen Superior Judge Wendy Davis another reason for gratitude.
"Our drug problem is skyrocketing," said Davis, who has sent several non-violent offenders to Redemption House so they can get help rather than jail time. "So many people aren't a threat (to society); they're addicts and need help. And we just don't have a lot of in-patient treatment centers.
"I can't put them back on the street or they'll be back into the activities that got them into my court to begin with. Redemption House is a safe place and they do good work."
And after several months there, many of the women remain on probation while they continue their search for the kind of redemption that will keep them out of trouble for the rest of their lives and beyond. Not all will make it, but some will.
And each of those mundane day-to-day victories will represent another reason to give thanks – even if some who have never known hardship fail to understand what all the rejoicing is about.
More Information
See the Redemption HouseWhat: Grand 'reopening'
Where: 2720 Fairfield Ave.
When: Nov. 29 from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Parking: Available at Fairfield Elementary School; shuttles and light refreshments provided


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A long standing Thanksgiving tradition at our house is serving Irish Soda Biscuits made from our Irish Soda Bread Mix. There's something about Thanksgiving that draws me towards biscuits and rolls in place of bread. I love using the Irish Soda Bread Mix because it takes all the work out of making biscuits from scratch; enough work is already going into the meal. This adaptation is easy and oh-so-delicious!
Irish Soda Biscuits
|Mix oil and 1/3 cup water. Stir into 2 cups of Irish Soda Bread Mix. If dough seems dry, add one tablespoon of water at a time, mixing to combine after each, until dough reaches proper consistency. Gather into ball. Roll or press out on floured board to about 1 inch thick. Cut into biscuits. Place in ungreased pan. Bake in 450°F oven for 8-10 minutes.
Makes 8 biscuits.


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Moving an elderly loved one with a lifetime of belongings can be overwhelming. To serve this growing niche, senior move management services have increased in the past decade.
These companies help relocate seniors to another home, retirement community, or assisted living facility. Senior move managers can help with all aspects of the senior move, or just a portion of it. You decide which services you need.
Professional moving services can include:
- Pack and unpack your belongings
- Moving your items
- Organize, sort, and donate your items
- Creating a floor plan for your new home
- Decorating the new home to match the old
Sean and Jan Tienhaara started a full service moving company that focuses on senior citizens moving when their relative was living out of state and they were trying to move him closer but found the process difficult.
"You think of your grandmother," explained Sean. "You walk into her home and you see all those little things, maybe things you made for her and it's set in one place, one location, and we want to be able to reenact that same type of feeling back at their new place because even though they might be going to a small place many of them are afraid "is it going to be home?" We want to make it home for them so making it home is trying to find for many of them, if possible, putting things exactly where they were."
"The majority of the time we do the packing, we do the unpacking, Sean hangs all the pictures, the curtains, so when they walk in everything is set up the way had left it," said Jan.
Angie's List Tips: Hiring a moving service for seniors
- Don't skip your research: Whether you're looking for a senior move manager or a traditional mover, it's important to research the company before you hire and get cost details in writing. A common complaint from consumers is being quoted one price before the move and being charged a higher price at the time of the move.
- Ask about costs: Most local movers charge by the hour, while longer distance moves are based on weight and distance. Fees vary depending on the services needed. Avoid movers who require large deposits. Request an in-home estimate. Most senior moving companies will offer a free consultation.
- Check qualifications: Always interview more than one company and ask about their service moving seniors. Check for membership in professional organizations, such as the National Association of Senior Move Managers (NASMM).
- Ask about your insurance options: Most companies will offer free limited coverage, with additional insurance available for purchase. Check with your private home insurer to see if your policy covers damages incurred during a move.
- Ask about a written contract: Details and costs of the services should be clear in a contract. Don't sign anything you don't understand. Never sign off on the job until you're sure there's nothing missing or damaged. If you notice that a box is damaged at delivery, open it in the movers' presence to confirm the condition of the articles in the box.
Copyright 2012 by News4Jax.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.


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Luhnow gets first-hand look at Draft prospects
PORT ST. LUCIE, Fla. -- Astros general manager Jeff Luhnow spent a couple of days on the road earlier this week wearing his scouting hat. Luhnow, like he did last year, is trying to get a first-hand look at some of the players the club is considering taking with the No. 1 overall pick in the June First-Year Player Draft.
"I'm going to wait until the season starts to go back out, but it's always fun to get back on the scouting trail," said Luhnow, who oversaw the Cardinals' scouting department during much of his tenure in St. Louis.
Luhnow, who likes to keep his scouting trips hush-hush so he doesn't reveal some of the players the Astros are considering, might only get a chance to see a player once or maybe twice, so his trips are about much more than watching games.
"I try and take advantage and meet the parents or players or whoever I can and form a more complete picture," he said. "I focus on players that are likely to be our top Draft picks, whether it's 1-1 or 41 [overall]. I don't have the luxury of going too deep down the list, so days off are usually good days to do that."
Brian McTaggart is a reporter for MLB.com and writes an MLBlog, Tag's Lines. Follow @brianmctaggart on Twitter. This story was not subject to the approval of Major League Baseball or its clubs.


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"Holstein 101" Debuts on Holstein Association USA Web Site
Holstein Association USA has added a new section to the web site, entitled "Holstein 101 A Beginner's Guide to Holstein Cattle." Aimed at those with little or no exposure to Holstein cattle or the dairy industry, the web site features several tabbed sections to help people familiarize themselves with dairy cattle and the Holstein breed. To view the Holstein 101 pages, visit the Holstein Association USA web site at www.holsteinusa.com, and click on the Holstein 101 button located beneath the Recent Updates box on the right side of the page.
The seven sections found on the Holstein 101 page include: Holstein Breed History, Facts about Holstein Cattle, Glossary of Common Dairy Terms, Basic Dairy Cattle Care, What Makes a "Good Cow," Understanding Pedigrees, and Holstein Photos and Desktop Backgrounds. Each section also includes "Recommended Reading" for those interested in digging a little deeper into the content discussed.
Holstein 101 also includes a feature called "Ask a Holstein Expert," where someone can email Holstein Association USA with their questions, if they don't find the answers they're looking for within the web site.
We encourage Holstein enthusiasts to share this resource with younger members and youth agricultural organizations, or anyone who might be interested in learning a little more about the dairy industry. With questions or for more information, contact Lindsey Worden at 800.952.5200, ext. 4096, or firstname.lastname@example.com.


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|Notebook paper fabric from Fresh Modern Fabric on Etsy
Do you ever have days where you think you're actually accomplishing something and then you realize its quite the opposite?
I made this label for my quilt that will be going to the NQA Show (dropping it off today!) I stamped it during nap time yesterday then last night went to sew it onto the quilt...then I realized I used ink meant for paper aka water soluble, instead of fabric ink which is permanent.
So last night at 10p I sat down and made an entirely new label, and then finally attached it to the quilt.
On another note, Eli is enjoying the summer and we're outside more often than not.
Between the pool, play parks, and friends houses... we're never bored!
Happy Weekend to you!


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John Cartwright's decision to quit Gold Coast is the end of an era at the embattled NRL club.
The foundation coach announced on Tuesday he had stepped down with the Titans facing the prospect of a fourth straight season without finals football.
Joining Cartwright in the departure lounge was club founder Michael Searle, effectively ending the involvement of two of the biggest characters in the Titans' short existence.
While Cartwright will stay at the club in a non-football role, the end of his eight-year coaching tenure only adds to the uncertainty surrounding the future of a club undergoing a full internal review.
Following a distinguished 184-game playing career with Penrith, Cartwright was appointed the Titans' inaugural coach in 2007 after serving an apprenticeship as an assistant at the Panthers and Sydney Roosters.
Initial success appeared to point the Titans towards a bright future, with the club coming within a game of the grand final in 2010.
A wooden spoon in 2011 halted the momentum and, as the club battled off-field financial and boardroom issues, Cartwright wasn't able to get the Titans back to the finals.
"The last four years we've under-achieved and, at the end of the day, that responsibility comes back to me," Cartwright said.
"I put my hand up - we haven't been successful on the field to maintain my job."
Assistant Neil Henry will take over as interim coach following the Titans' clash with the Roosters at Allianz Stadium on Monday night.
The ex-North Queensland coach is considered the leading contender for the role full-time after impressing board members following his appointment as an assistant last year.
It's believed the club's perilous financial state could also make securing a high-profile coach from outside difficult.
Whoever gets the role will need to make a call on the only remaining foundation players, Luke Bailey and Mark Minichiello, who are both off contract at season's end.
There's also the issue of the current campaign, which Cartwright insists isn't over yet despite the club sitting 13th going into this week's fixtures.
"Maybe I'm an optimist," the 48-year-old said.
"I really wanted to be involved in the game this weekend and hopefully that keeps us alive for the semi-finals."
Cartwright and Searle appear to be the first victims of the ongoing internal review.
Searle's role at the club had been under scrutiny since his involvement in the doomed Centre of Excellence building at Robina plunged the club into a $25 million debt.
He has stepped down from his role on the board and as executive director of football but will retain his 40 per cent share in the club.
Playing career:
Position: Second-row
Club: Penrith (1985-96)
Games: 184
Tries: 14
Rep Honours: NSW City (2 games, 1990 and 1992), NSW State of Origin (8 games, 1989, 1991-92), Australia (7 Tests, 1990-92)
* Premiership player in 1991
* Dally M second-rower of the year in 1991 and 92
Coaching career:
Club: Gold Coast (2007-14)
Games: 192 (88 wins, 104 losses)
* Reached finals in 2009, 10
* Wooden spoon in 2011
* Was NSW City coach in 2009, 10 and 11. Won one game and lost two.


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February 5, 2013 BY John Kim
Kevin Durant and Foot Locker just revealed their latest ad in which Detective Durant and his superior are in search for the mysterious KD who is wanted for his tendencies to be "not nice". His main weapon of choice appears to be the Nike KD V 'Ice Blue', part of which has been recovered as part of evidence! You can join in on hte #KDISNOTNICE campaign by tweeting KD's un-nice moments to @footlocker with the #KDISNOTNICE hashtag, or simply cop the Nike KD V 'Ice Blue' and the entire apparel/accessory collection tomorrow online and at all stores on Thursday.
Nike KD V
Ice Blue/Squadron Blue-Total Orange
Filed under: Just Released Kevin Durant


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SMF Feedback and Discussion
(1/916) > >>
[1] Posting your Feedbacks/Testimonials.
[2] We are always looking for Support Specialists!
[3] What can we do to help grow our 3PDs?
[4] READ ME: About this board / Common Questions
[5] IP Bans and mobile users
[6] The story of a custom theme/mod project.
[7] OMG Dilber MC Theme missing from SMF Customization site :((
[8] MOVED: Problems with upgrading membership (PM - limits)
[9] Paid membership not showing my account, no email response...
[0] Up one level
[#] Next pageGo to full version


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Y'all might remember our story on El Centro fashion student Jazzy Abram getting ready for the school's annual fashion show at the Women's Museum. I made it to the show and it turned out to be a big deal.
El Centro is releasing "Fashionscapes" on DVD for purchase, and I just got word that the trailer is out. My video featured only Abram's fashions, but this obviously shows all of the lines that walked the runway that night — and some that sashayed it, as you can tell at the 0:25 and 1:03 marks.


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The Corsham School will only be open to sixth formers tomorrow as strike action by NUT members takes place.
Headteacher Martin Williams says in a letter to parents and carers: "Neither the governing body, nor the headteacher is legally allowed to close the school 'in sympathy' with the strike and we are not doing so.
"My main concern is the safety of the students and it is clear, given the numbers of staff who will not be at work that day, there will be insufficient staff to supervise the students in an effective manner, should the school remain open.
"We must all hope that the issues over which the industrial action has arisen are resolved as soon as possible."


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Welcome to the Muppet Central Forum!
You are viewing our forum as a guest. Join our free community to post topics and start private conversations. Please contact us if you need help with registration or your account login.
MC Community: Where is it going?
Discussion in 'Feedback' started by theprawncracker, Sep 17, 2008.
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