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Freida Pinto is a model and actress who is best known for her role in Slumdog Millionaire. In 2010, she is set to appear in three A-lister films: You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger, opposite Anthony Hopkins and Josh Brolin; Miral, opposite Willem Defoe; and American Empire, opposite Jeremy Piven.
AppealAs a current actress, former model and seasoned TV host, it's obvious that the camera agrees with Freida Pinto. Her past assignments have featured magazine covers and advertisements, which show that she has the right look to be the center of attention and not a background doormat. If Freida Pinto didn't have solid sex appeal, the high-profile Elite agency never would've given her modeling aspirations the time of day.
Her career-boosting role as the slightly submissive and altogether supportive Latika in Slumdog Millionaire made men worldwide fall for her and aspire to use her if they ever needed to "phone a friend," Millionaire-style.
SuccessAlthough she's technically a one-hit wonder at the moment, Freida Pinto has all the makings of a future international star. After growing up with visions of Bollywood in her eyes, Freida Pinto found Hollywood instead thanks to director Danny Boyle and a resulting role in the critical darling Slumdog Millionaire -- not bad for a gal with nothing in the way of genuine acting experience. She currently has three films set for release in 2010: You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger, opposite Anthony Hopkins and Josh Brolin; Miral, opposite Willem Defoe; and American Empire, opposite Jeremy Piven.
While acting in films may be new to her, Freida Pinto has been in front of the cameras for a few years. She previously hosted a travel-based TV show called Full Circle, and also served as a model through Elite, which had her chewing Wrigley's on TV and promoting VISA in print. Now a star-in-the-making, we expect big things from Freida Pinto -- and so does she.
Freida Pinto BiographyFreida Pinto was born on October 18, 1984, in Mumbai, India. Her early interest in acting (she remembers it starting at age 5) was a direct contrast to the occupations and interests of the rest of the family: Her mother, Sylvia, worked as a principal, while dad Frederick served as a bank manager and sister Sharon became a television news producer.
While attending St. Xavier's College in Mumbai, Freida Pinto's course load included studies in film and literature, which piqued her interest in show business all the more and solidified her intent to work in entertainment. A few amateur theater productions followed, but Freida Pinto found that entering the Bollywood film industry was difficult. She had no family members or close friends employed there already, so another approach was needed.
freida pinto joins elite and hosts full circleHaving graduated from college and still keen to find a way into the entertainment world, Freida Pinto took up modeling in 2005. She was quickly signed by Elite Model Management in India, and a slew of TV commercials, print appearances and magazine covers followed. On television, her ads included Wrigley's Chewing Gum and Škoda Auto; in print she advertised VISA, eBay and De Beers; and her magazine covers were Femina & Femina Girl and FNL. Pinto also did promotional work for MTV fashion shows, the History Channel and Chanel.
Still without true acting experience on her plate, Freida Pinto turned to travel-themed television as a new professional outlet. In 2006, she joined the series Full Circle for 52 full episodes as the show's anchor. As part of the show, Pinto got to explore different cultures and share the natural beauty of countries like Fiji, Malaysia and Thailand.
freida pinto stars in slumdog millionaireIn 2007, Freida Pinto scored an audition for a new film from Trainspotting director Danny Boyle. The film was to be shot in India, and it was her personality and success on Full Circle that won her the chance to audition. Over a six-month period, Freida Pinto auditioned for the lead female role of Latika and got the part, even though it was her first professional acting role of any kind.
Slumdog Millionaire was the resulting film, and it proved to be an international success, capturing Golden Globe wins for Best Picture - Drama, Best Director and Best Screenplay, among others. It also generated significant Academy Awards buzz, and went on to pick up eight out of the 10 Oscars for which it was nominated at the 2009 Academy Awards, including two most sought after awards, Best Director and Best Motion Picture. Freida Pinto got to share in the film's critical success thanks to cast nominations for Best Ensemble and Outstanding Performance by a Cast in a Motion Picture (at the Black Reel Awards and the Screen Actors Guild Awards, respectively).
Now that she's a name, Freida Pinto will star in three A-lister films set for release in 2010: You Will Meet a Tall Dark Stranger, opposite Anthony Hopkins and Josh Brolin; Miral, opposite Willem Defoe; and American Empire, opposite Jeremy Piven.
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text:
Redesigning Technical Services Workflows
Recorded at the ALA Annual 2010 conference
This event has passed.
Recorded at the ALA Annual 2010 conference
Panelists discuss the discoverability, synchronization and syndication of library data and new ways of updating library holdings information.
- Introduction [Streaming Video, 6 minutes]
Karen Calhoun, Vice President, WorldCat and Metadata Services, OCLC
- Discoverability: Synchronization and syndication of library data [Streaming Video, 14 minutes]
Janet Fransen, Engineering Librarian, University of Minnesota
- OSMOSIS: a new way of updating holdings on the New Zealand union catalogue [Streaming Video, 17 minutes]
Ksenija Mincic-Obradovic, Cataloguing Manager, The University of Auckland Library
- Synchronization: Challenges & Opportunities [Streaming Video, 23 minutes]
Ted Fons, Director, WorldCat Global Metadata Network, OCLC
- Discussion [Streaming Video, 45 minutes]
Start Date
26 June 2010
End Date
26 June 2010


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MAMMAL SPECIES living on islands tend to become diminutive compared to their continental relatives, and the deer of the Florida Keys are no exception. Looking like an otherwise perfect specimen of the Virginia white-tailed deer, of which it is an endangered subspecies, the Key deer stands scarcely 2 feet tall at the shoulder and rarely weighs more than 75 pounds. Nevertheless, poachers reduced its numbers to perhaps 50 animals by the 1940s. Protecting Key deer became one of NWF's first major commitments after the organization was founded in 1936.
Today the poaching has largely stopped, but survival of the 600 deer that live only on Big Pine and a few nearby islands nevertheless remains in jeopardy. The main threat is development, which takes up deer habitat and brings more people to the Keys, where collisions with motor vehicles are among the primary sources of deer mortality. Ironically, the federal government—charged with protecting Key deer under the Endangered Species Act—has been underwriting the habitat destruction that threatens the deer as well as seven other listed species.
How so? The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has been issuing flood insurance to property owners building on floodplains in the Keys—insurance that private companies will not provide and that makes development possible in deer habitat. To stop this harmful process NWF, the Florida Wildlife Federation and Defenders of Wildlife sued FEMA in 1990 for failing to consult with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) on this action, as required by the federal Endangered Species Act for federal actions that may harm listed species. That suit led to a 1994 ruling that required consultation.
The consultation report, called a biological opinion, was released in 1997. "It was very weak," says Randy Sargent Neppl, NWF wildlife conservation counsel. "It didn't require more than voluntary measures." However, the biological opinion stated that if FEMA did not produce a habitat conservation plan within five years, the opinion would have to be reassessed. No plan appeared, and FWS released a new opinion in 2003; ironically it was nearly identical to the first one, driving NWF back to court. "We said that FWS did not follow up to see if its recommendations were being followed, and we asked for and won a court injunction on new development in the Keys," Neppl says. The injunction will remain until FWS produces a new biological opinion.
The ruling affects a few hundred acres of private land, but the legal implications extend to all states where builders rely on federal flood insurance. The injunction requires that before floodplains are developed, FEMA must consult with FWS to ensure no harm to listed species. "None of the groups involved in the case want to stop all development," says John Kostyack, an NWF executive director who has represented NWF on the lawsuit for the past 15 years and has argued the case in court, "but we do want to end a federal subsidy that encourages development in areas critical to the survival of threatened and endangered species."
The outcome of the Keys FEMA court case benefits not only threatened and endangered species but also the taxpayers who would have footed the bill for drowned structures. Floods and severe storms, according to a recent NWF report on global warming and rainfall, are among the most costly of weather and climate disasters, tallying more than $115 billion in damages from 1960 to 2005. Floods accounted for 164 million of some 197 million people affected by disasters in 2007. The Centre for Research on the Epidemiology of Disasters in Brussels, Belgium, estimates that in recent decades, the number of flood and storm disasters worldwide has risen 7.4 percent yearly. Disasters increase not only because storms may be becoming more intense in the wake of global warming, but also because increasing numbers of people are moving into flood-prone areas or alternating the way natural flood systems work. However, lawsuits brought by NWF and other groups in Washington state's Puget Sound and Mississippi's Yazoo River Basin are helping to ensure that development in floodplains tightens up.
In Puget Sound, another NWF suit against FEMA's flood-insurance program involved issues almost identical to those revolving around Key deer, though the wildlife species in question were much different. An ongoing survey of Puget Sound killer whales, or orcas, last fall reported the loss of seven of the animals in what could be the biggest decline among the sound's orcas in a decade. The sound is home to three orca pods that were cut to a total of 83 animals by the decline; each pod lost at least one member. The loss of two females of breeding age was especially serious, says Ken Balcomb, a senior scientist with the Center for Whale Research on San Juan Island, because their deaths reduce the sound's breeding females to only 10 individuals.
Balcomb blames the decline on a dwindling supply of chinook salmon, which studies show account for 80 percent of the diet for Puget Sound's killer whales. About half of the historic salmon stocks coming out of local rivers are extinct, and surviving stocks have declined by about 10 percent in recent decades. Development is one of the leading causes of salmon decline, and FEMA flood insurance has been exacerbating the problem. In 2003 NWF brought a suit against the agency, alleging that the flood-insurance program encouraged coastal development that jeopardized the survival of Puget Sound salmon listed under the federal Endangered Species Act. The federal district court in Seattle agreed in 2004, ordering FEMA to consult with the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) on potential wildlife threats, as required under the law.
NMFS released its biological opinion last fall, declaring that FEMA's insurance program did jeopardize salmon survival in violation of the Endangered Species Act. The report indicated that the FEMA program could result in a 30-percent reduction of Puget Sound's chinook salmon, robbing orcas of their prey base. The terms of the biological opinion, which would affect some 270 municipalities in Washington, effectively prevent unmitigated floodplain development until new FEMA regulations go into effect in September 2010. Meanwhile, NWF is putting together a coalition of conservation groups to help ensure that the new regulations achieve protections for Puget's water quality and wildlife. "People have been wanting to change how floodplains are managed for decades, and this biological opinion provides the scientific and legal foundation to finally accomplish that goal," says Dan Siemann, senior environmental policy specialist in NWF's Seattle office. "It's the first real opportunity we've had for really sweeping changes that will have huge positive effects. But the important thing to realize is that this is not just about salmon and wildlife protection. It's also about getting people out of harm's way, reducing taxpayer expenses due to flood damage and preparing for increased storm water due to climate change. Preventing development in floodplains benefits everybody."
Urged on by its members from Mississippi, Congress in 1941 authorized the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to design a water project in the lower Mississippi Delta that would dry out flooded private lands for agriculture. Called the "Yazoo Pump," the project included a pumping station that would take 14,000 cubic feet of water per second—the average amount of flow for the Delaware River between New Jersey and Pennsylvania—out of the lower Mississippi Delta during high-water periods and dump it into the Yazoo River.
Under the original plan, the project would have drained more than 314 square miles of wetland and bottomland forest habitats in one of Mississippi's most sparsely populated regions, an area about the size of New York City between the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers; NWF senior resource specialist David Conrad calls it "America's Amazon." Vital to millions of migrating waterfowl and shorebirds, the deeply forested region encompasses one of the last strongholds of the threatened Louisiana black bear. At a cost of hundreds of millions of tax dollars, the Yazoo Pump would have reduced the Mississippi Delta's natural capacity for holding back high water and for protecting downstream communities such as New Orleans from floods. "This plan was drafted in the Dark Ages by engineers who were determined to turn rivers into ditches and who had no sensitivity to the natural environment," says Gerald Barber, past president of the Mississippi Wildlife Federation (MWF) and former chair of NWF's board of directors.
NWF partnered with MWF to oppose the project in the early 1940s, engaging in a battle that would continue beyond the turn of the millennium. In 2006 NWF and a delegation of Mississippi farmers, landowners and conservationists urged Steve Johnson, administrator of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to stop the plan. In spring 2008, 45,000 citizens, including almost 6,000 NWF volunteer activists, called on EPA to "dump the pump." The coalition, Barber says, was something of a ragtag army, but that pump proponents chose "the wrong rag-tag army to take on." The following August, Johnson issued the twelfth project veto ever in EPA history, ending the 67-year battle to protect Yazoo wetlands. For Barber, who fought the project for 27 years, it hardly seemed possible that the fight was over. "I never believed that the dragon was dead," he says. "I'm still not sure—it's just lying on the ground."
The victories in Florida, Washington and Mississippi provide protection for important wildlife habitat and suggest that business as usual in floodplains is changing. But over each of these sites looms another issue with much broader impact that could undercut years of conservation work.
Global warming could limit the promise that changes in floodplain development offer the nation as a whole. "Because warmer air can hold more moisture, global warming is expected to yield heavier precipitation in coming years," says Amanda Staudt, NWF climate scientist. "Of course, no single storm or flood can be blamed directly on global warming, but trends in recent years suggest that with rising global temperatures will come rising local floods."
Higher volume in storm runoff could overload water-management systems as heavy rainstorms that now occur in the eastern United States every 20 years increase in frequency to every 8 years. As glaciers and polar ice melt, some scientists predict a sea-level rise of 2.6 to 6.6 feet by 2100, which would flood coastal regions such as the Florida Keys. Deer would be squeezed out of the Keys, a disaster for which managers at the Key Deer National Wildlife Refuge already are planning. "For species like the Key deer, global warming will bring a host of new threats, like more intense storms and rising sea levels," Kostyack says.
The conditions that global warming will impose "will require increasingly wiser and more reasoned policies for wildlife protection and for use of marginal lands," Kostyack says. "The recent NWF victories on floodplain development are steps in the right direction for dealing with the looming, and much greater, challenge of living on a warming globe."
Roger Di Silvestro is a National Wildlife senior editor.
NWF is continuing to work on floodplain development as new issues arise. The Global Warming Safeguards Program is an NWF initiative that, among other goals, works to reform flood insurance policy. NWF recently joined court action designed to improve FEMA flood insurance in Oregon. NWF's senior resource specialist, David Conrad, was appointed last year by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and FEMA as a representative on the review team of the National Levee Safety Committee, directed by Congress to make recommendations to Congress on a potentially new National Levee Safety Program. The only environmental organization asked to serve on the review team, NWF strongly criticized the narrow scope of the committee's draft report. For more information, see "What We Do to Protect Water Resources."
Flood insurance is mandatory for people who live in high-risk areas and hold a mortgage from a federally insured or regulated lender. Congress created the National Flood Insurance Program, housed in the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), in 1968 partly to provide this insurance in flood zones where private insurers were (and largely still are) unwilling to bear the economic risks. Nearly 20,000 U.S. communities participate in the insurance program. According to a 2008 report by the Government Accountability Office, more than 90 percent of the program's 5.4 million policyholders (as of 2006) own residential properties, the majority of them in high-risk flood zones where annual premiums stand at little more than $1,400.
By providing insurance in high-risk flood zones, FEMA encourages building that inevitably will burden taxpayers with costly, repetitive insurance claims while causing habitat destruction. The flood-insurance program lists some 140,000 properties that have made two or more claims in a rolling 10-year period, says David Conrad, NWF senior resource specialist. In recent years, these properties—about 2.5 percent of total program policies—have accounted for more than 30 percent of total payments, which amount to more than $35 billion, he says.


text:
Effects of the Sangvia Blood Collection System on Postoperative Infections in Orthopedic Patients
- Full Text View
- Tabular View
- No Study Results Posted
- Disclaimer
- How to Read a Study Record
The purpose of this study is to compare the infection rate in patients receiving/not receiving their own blood, collected during surgery, during and after orthopedic surgery.
The hypothesis is that transfusion of autologous salvaged blood may reduce postoperative infection.
|Procedure: Autologous blood transfusion Procedure: Allogeneic blood transfusion
|Study Type:
|Study Design:
|Allocation: Randomized
Intervention Model: Parallel Assignment
Masking: None (Open Label)
Primary Purpose: Prevention
|Official Title:
|Effects of the Sangvia Blood Collection System on Postoperative Infections in Orthopedic Patients
- Body temperature [ Time Frame: Participants will be followed for the duration of hospital stay, an expected average of 8 days. ]The body temperature is measured as a part of infection monitoring.
- C-reactive protein (CRP) [ Time Frame: Participants will be followed for the duration of hospital stay, an expected average of 8 days. ]CRP i measured as a part of infection monitoring. Because elevated CRP is expected after surgery it is necessary to measure other parameters to in order to monitor infection.
- White blood cells (WBC) [ Time Frame: Participants will be followed for the duration of hospital stay, an expected average of 8 days. ]WBC is measured and is a part of the infection monitoring.
|Study Start Date:
|December 2009
|Study Completion Date:
|December 2012
|Primary Completion Date:
|December 2012 (Final data collection date for primary outcome measure)
|Assigned Interventions
Active Comparator: Allogeneic blood
Allogeneic blood transfusion. Patients in this group will receive allogeneic red cell transfusions.
Procedure: Allogeneic blood transfusion
Transfusion of allogeneic blood according to the transfusion guidelines at each of the participating hospitals.
Experimental: Autologous blood
Autologous blood transfusion. Patients in this arm will receive per- and postoperatively collected autologous blood collected with the Sangvia Blood Collection System. If teh amount of autologous blood is too small for the clinical need, additional allogeneic blood will be transfused.
Procedure: Autologous blood transfusion
Per- and postoperative transfusion of autologous salvaged blood collected with the Sangvia Blood Collection System.
Detailed Description:
Postoperative infections (both systemic and wound infections) are complications that should be avoided both due to the discomfort and the risk to the patients and for the corresponding increment of hospital costs.
There are some studies indicating that transfusion of autologous salvaged blood may reduce postoperative infections. This may be due to immunostimulating cytokines released in these products. However, as these cytokines also may cause adverse events as febrile transfusion reactions and activation of the complement and the coagulation cascades, the overall impact may be different.
There are two publications from an Austrian group indicating that allogeneic blood transfusion in orthopedic patients cause increased postoperative infection rate irrespectively of the leukocyte content of the red cell concentrates.
The Austrian studies were not randomized. Therefore, it would be useful to perform a randomized, prospective study where the patients receive transfusion of salvaged blood versus allogeneic red cell concentrate as their primary replacement product, respectively.
The purpose of the pilot study is to evaluate if transfusion of autologous salvaged blood reduces the infection rate in orthopedic patients compared with patients receiving allogeneic blood transfusion. The study is limited to one source of autologous blood; blood collected by the Sangvia Blood Collection System, and the study is partially sponsored by the manufacturer.
|Ages Eligible for Study:
|16 Years and older (Child, Adult, Senior)
|Sexes Eligible for Study:
|Accepts Healthy Volunteers:
Inclusion Criteria:
- Patients with a risk of needing red cell transfusion after surgery estimated to be above 75%, judged by preoperative hemoglobin concentration and known risk of preoperative bleeding
- Patients over 16 years of age
- Patients who have consented to participate
Exclusion Criteria:
- Patients with a known hemolytic anemia (congenital or acquired)
- Patients for whom informed consent has not been obtained
Please refer to this study by its ClinicalTrials.gov identifier: NCT01725724
|Haukeland University Hospital
|Bergen, Norway
|Kysthospitalet i Hagevik
|Hagavik, Norway
|Soerlandet hospital
|Kristiansand, Norway
|Stord Hospital
|Stord, Norway
|Principal Investigator:
|Tor A Hervig, MD, PhD
|Haukealnd University Hospital
|Responsible Party:
|Haukeland University Hospital
|ClinicalTrials.gov Identifier:
|NCT01725724 History of Changes
|Other Study ID Numbers:
|Study First Received:
|April 17, 2012
|Last Updated:
|March 27, 2015
Keywords provided by Haukeland University Hospital:
Autologous blood transfusion
Allogeneic blood transfusion
Infection rate
Additional relevant MeSH terms:
Osteoarthritis, Hip
Joint Diseases
Musculoskeletal Diseases
Rheumatic Diseases
ClinicalTrials.gov processed this record on September 21, 2017


text:
Three from Muskingum selected for annual Watermedia Society art show while Professor Yan Sun mounts special exhibition
Two Muskingum University art students and their professor, Yan Sun, have been selected to participate in the 35th Annual Southeastern Ohio Watermedia Society exhibition now on display at the Zanesville Museum of Art.
Appearing with Professor Sun in the juried exhibition are Grandma's Barn, an acrylic by Grace Turner '13 (pictured here) and Lovers,
an acrylic by Dandan Song. Their work, along with that of 21 other
artists, will be on display at the museum from December 8 to December
At the same time, Professor Sun has mounted a special exhibition at the museum. Titled Viewpoints and Vistas: Paintings by Yan Sun,
it displays a series of both oils and acrylics that reflect his
international experiences and some ballet themes. That exhibition will
be on display from December 15 to February 16. Grace is pictured here with her work.
Sun is the Ruth Dorsey Neptune Distinguished Profess or Fine Arts at
Muskingum, where he teaches studio and theory courses. He joined the
faculty in 1997.
Gallery hours for both shows are
Wednesdays from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Thursdays from 10:00 a.m. to
7:30 p.m., Fridays from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and Saturdays from 10:00
a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Admission is $6.00 for adults, $4.00 for seniors age
60 and over and for students age 10 to 18. Museum members and children
up through age 9 are admitted free.
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text:
Annapurna wrote:I am indeed quite happy with the way of life I was born into and am sure it is a part of my kamma.
But it's not about me anyways.
My point is that we let other people live out their traditions, in the absence of arrogance and develop more understanding for their way of life.
Mutual tolerance, if you will.
It has nothing to do with a ''tradition'' ''tolerance'' or a ''way of life''. It is a politician sounding off - and we are aware from our own countries that not all make intelligent remarks.
''However, he was directly contradicted by Solicitor General Anthony Kamanga, who says the reference to "fouling the air" means pollution."How any reasonable or sensible person can construe the provision to criminalising farting in public is beyond me," he said, adding that the prohibition contained in the new law has been in place since 1929.
The Local Courts Bill, to be introduced next week reads: "Any person who vitiates the atmosphere in any place so as to make it noxious to the public to the health of persons in general dwelling or carrying on business in the neighbourhood or passing along a public way shall be guilty of a misdemeanour."
with metta


text:
|Trad, 2 pitches
|YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
|Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, 1962. FFA: Jim Erickson, Jim Walsh, 1968.
|Fixed Hardware:
|2 Belay Bolts, 2 Lead Pins [details]
|Page Views:
|Submitted By:
|Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
|Comments on Tagger
|Add Comment
|Show which comments —
Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2016
By Patrick Vernon
From: Estes Park, CO
Jan 1, 2001
|The R rating on this route is not necessary. The lower roof eats nuts and tcus. The upper roof has a jug on the right you can hang and place a bomber #1 cam from, and the moves out the roof (technical laybacking) are not too strenuous.
By T. Maino
From: Denver, CO
Jan 1, 2001
|It should be noted that some people have gotten badly injured on the first pitch. If you [aren't] careful, you might place a nut that looks good but could easily be pulled out by a little bit of rope drag; also, the pin-scar tcus can be good if you take your time placing them
By Kristo torgersen
Aug 1, 2001
|On P1, I also found the gear adequate, but not great. If you don't feel solid at the 5.9 grade, I would suggest leading it. If you do, there is a super-bomber #3 WC nut placement behind a flake above the initial corner and before the arcing upper corner, where small cams and nuts can be placed, though a bit blindly.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2001
|Unlike most 5.10 roofs, on P2 it is not a test of arm crank power. I have done it at least 3 times, and the crux for me is always delicate footwork before you can get your hand in the jam at the apex. There is a foothold for your left foot wwaayy left, seems too far. I remember stemming off this although last time I did this I couldn't figure out where I had my right foot and just dynoed for the hand jam (I was seconding). Even when you get the jam it is by no means over. Very tricky getting the feet above the lip. More footholds left near the arete help here, as I recall.
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Sep 24, 2001
|A nice route. The first pitch is a bit more sustained than the 2nd. That being said, the 2nd pitch was one of the harder 10s I've led and I really thought I was going to fall. In this case I will pull the "its harder for short people" card. I had a better time with the few 11s in Eldo that I've done.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Nov 7, 2001
|Second pitch beta (for stem-challenged folks): place some gear, namely a couple Aliens to back up the pin, and a #2.5 or 3 Friend just over the lip. Once these are in, you are totally safe. Layback/undercling/lurch and grab the slopey jug at the lip right of the corner with right hand, left hand leaning off the crack_the jam is probably taken up by a Friend. After pulling up, and craning your neck around for a while, you may notice that there appear to be no more handholds within reach to help with upward progress. Actually you are right, there are none. Swing your left foot over way left to the arete onto an unlikely foothold. At this point, start chimneying, by leaning your shoulder/back against the right wall/lip, using opposing pressure from your left foot. You end up pushing/sitting on the jug on the right, or, for extra style points, the right knee ends up on the same jug. Typical Eldo crux, baffling, counterintuitive, but ok once you have it figured out. No stemming, and no way is this harder for the vertically deprived. Of course, if you don't like move by move beta, don't read this comment.
By Bryson Slothower
Feb 8, 2002
|I did this for the third time today and have yet to do it the same way twice. I stemmed the whole way through the upper roof. I think it is harder than Grandmothers Challenge. I belay just after the roof on pitch two for ease of communication while bringing up the second.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 15, 2002
|P1 can be toproped by climbing Tigger (5.5) and traversing right to the big tree and bolt anchor.
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 10, 2002
|The first pitch is well protected but the gear is not [straightforward]. This wouldn't be a good first 9 lead but it is solid if you are good with tricky eldo placements. There are two starts mentioned by rossiter in his book. The real [Tagger] way is to start where [Calypso] starts and climb a shallow left leaning left facing dihedral up to the arching dihedral/roof. The other (which he gives a [separate] name- "I did it my way") seems more natural where you start further left and climb up and slightly right to the A shaped intersection before the arching left dihedral/roof. I have only climbed this second variation and found the protection to be quite adequate. The start is unprotected for 10 feet or so, so a ground spot is nice. The #3 WC rock is bomber. Red, yellow and green Aliens, a couple of medium cams and a few nuts sew it up. For the upper roof a red or yellow Alien can be used to back up the pin for the crux move. *skip if you don't want detailed beta.* Climbing beta for the roof: find a heel hook and [don't] layback until you pull yourself over the roof. Maybe I just like to jam cracks. It feels weird at first but i am sure this is the best way to do it. Great climb - casey bernal
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2002
|I agree with Casey, "I did it my way" is an easier start and somewhat better protected. I had always assumed this was the normal start until I checked in Rossiter's guide.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2002
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'd done it from the right all along. I guess that it just looks most natural since if you follow the roof crack down, that's where you end up.
Most people seem to start on "I Did It My Way" and traverse right early- firing up "I Did It My Way" straight to the roof is pretty hard and sketchy. I consider myself a pro with pro, but I'd call it S. Maybe I went too far that way and should have stepped to the right. I put this variation on the web under its own name because the comments field had gotten so loaded up on tagger that I figured it probably would not be read. Rossiter listed it as a separate route as well.
In any case, for the "most" direct line, pull the variation I called "My Own Way" straight through the arete. It is on the site as well.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 27, 2002
|The first pitch definitely warrants the R rating. Although the crack "eats" nuts, most of these placements are marginal. Furthermore, there are no good rests (for a .9) to fiddle with gear from, making an onsight lead a bit sketchy. The start is not too bad, with a textbook nut placement at the A-shaped overlap. However, beyond the overlap the crack angles up and left, providing very marginal nut placements that could very easily rip out with tension from a horizontal pull. It would be prudent to place a couple small TCUs (0 or 1 metolius) or a nest of nuts at the only good rest before commiting to the traverse. Placing gear mid-traverse is difficult, but heeding the temptation to run it out will set you up for a bone-crushing 10 to 15 foot fall right onto the slab below. This pitch was made for the R rating.
By Chris Fisher
Oct 19, 2002
|I lead the first pitch this weekend and found that the piton scars took nuts very well while leaving plenty of room for fingers. The roof was very straight forward but fun and all the holds were where they should be.
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2002
FWIW (and for my own memory), here's my beta for the roof on p2. (thanks to Josh Janes for beta assistance):
Get your right hand on the undercling that's just next to the corner, up higher than the bottom underclings (not as big/nice as the one to the right or the giant one lower). The key is to twist your hand 180 degrees from normal undercling position (think looking down your tricep). Left hand is somewhere (damn, already forgot what I did with it. It's ok, this isn't hard yet). Walk your feet up as high as possible on the right face, then reach out to the shelf with your left hand. Left foot on little nubbin on left face, right hand reaches out to undercling by pin. Match feet, then stretch left with left foot to big foothold. Shift left with body, match on shelf with hands, then left hand into the corner jam. Right hand slightly above and grab sidepull edge. Bump left foot up, then right foot on shelf.
At least, that's how I did it.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2002
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|I've done Tagger perhaps a dozen times that I can recall. Although I've done it a little different each time, I've never tried the twisted undercling as described above, which sounds anatomically awkward. Most of the difficulty in this route can be avoided by stepping back and to the right up under the roof a few times to stems and drop-knees while moving the hands. Not many people seem to do this though.
By Anonymous Coward
May 11, 2003
|I've done the upper roof 5 times or so (and P1 oodles of times, to set a toprope, etc.). Every time on the upper roof, I've been temporarily utterly baffled, then worked it out after several approaches. I do it similar to T. Bubb, with real stretchy stemming to get out the roof, then a lieback around the lip, until you can grap the jug above. I've led it every time except one (including onsight as my 2nd 5.10 ever), and never fallen, but the one time I followed it (one of the last times), I fell -- go figure.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 12, 2003
|I've avoided leading the first pitch for years frightened away by Rossiter's description of having "no good stances for stopping and placing gear", difficult-to-find placements, and being the scene of several accidents. After finally leading it, I don't get it. The placements are solid, with rests-a-plenty. If you are competent placing gear, you shouldn't have difficulty with this.
By XOG
Jun 22, 2003
|I was almost one of the accidents p1 is noted for in 1991 sometime. I'd never led anything harder than 5.6, and not very many of those, although I'd followed as hard as 11c, and a partner sandbagged me into leading it at the end of a winter day, 40 degrees with snow at the base (thanks, Steve). I had no idea what the climb was, but had the beginning leader's willingness to try. On the way up a local climbing ethics authority was heading down the trail with several pitons dangling from his harness. He informed us he'd just removed them from p1 of Tagger. I started up and put a #1 Rock half in a pin scar. I knew it was pathetic. I then proceeded up the curving crack and put a nut in there which I thought was good. The crack traversing left was wet and I put a Friend in there. I was almost finished traversing and had just placed a really good stopper when I freaked out and fell. Why I didn't just grab the stopper, I'll never know. I heard one snick as the Friend popped out and another as the "excellent" nut pulled. The crappy #1 half in a pin scar held me! When I got home I opened up Erickson's guidebook (the only one I had) and read the first sentence, "Scene of frequent accidents and mishaps...." I'd tend to agree with what several people here have written that for an experienced leader this is probably a pretty well-protected pitch. However, its short approach and proximity to large numbers of classic easier routes probably make it tempting for inexperienced leaders to attempt (or be sandbagged into leading as I was) this climb and I'd guess that this along with the fact that the pro while good is also a bit tricky to place, contributes to the accident factor. I imagine modern pro like Aliens and TCUs help a lot too - we didn't have these on our rack in 1991 (although I think TCUs at least were around then).
By David Conlin
Oct 8, 2003
My partner, Mike Flannagan, led this today in great style. He sewed up the first pitch and I would say for the competent leader, experienced with nut placements, this pitch is well-protected. (Of course, some of these placements weren't the easiest to remove). Seconding, I found plenty of rests to remove the gear that Mike placed. I thought the crux of P1 was down low, right after exiting the A-shaped overlap. P2 was much less sustained, with only a few moves through the .10c crux.
SHAMELESS BETA (stop here if you don't want it): P2: move into the corner on easy climbing. Find a huge hold out right for your right hand and undercling the dihedral with your left. Move left foot to intermediate crystal, stem right foot higher. Move first left hand, then right to match on jug on the overhanging face, just right of the crack. Move left foot to good dish out left (tall folks may be able to reach this without the intermediate crystal) and stem right even higher (now you should be quite spread out. Left hand up and sidepull crack, right hand to just above left hand, step left foot up high and stand up. Boo-ya it's over.
Someone should remove the piton in the overhanging crack on P2; its easy enough to place good cams and it just gets in the way and seems suspect.
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I recall the pitch 2 roof being the oddest sequence I've experienced in my years of climbing. I did it facing outward for the first two moves. Myke suggests matching your right foot with your left foot on the tiny nubbin. If you face outward (this is possible due to the size of the undercling hold for your right hand), your right foot can go immediately to the nubbin, your right hand into the "undercling by pin," and then follow sequence as Myke finishes. *I've GOT to try this again sometime.*
This was my first lead of this grade and somehow I got the On Sight. Can't say I wasn't fired up! Finished the day with the Northcutt Start. One of my best days of climbing ever.~Wm
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Feb 20, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I took Sally out to climb the first pitch today. Great day and not a lot of meltwater on the route at all. Bring small nuts for the rock and big nuts for your leader. I placed three RPs first 30'. You CAN sew this up. There should never have been accidents here (granted I do not know the particular circumstances). As long as you bring two green Aliens and a few RPs. Just as David says, some won't be easy to pull. See the CB's discussion on Rock Booty. I worked on an RP for the better part of five minutes on rappell today. Part of the job.
In any case, there are decent stances if you trust your feet and there is good gear if you can place nuts. Climb a few Eldo 5.9s before this one if you're thinking about making it a first. I feel as though it's one of the most solid 5.9s in the canyon (.9+ excluded of course). In short, be careful and bring the approrpiate equipment. I'm usually the retard with Big Bros on my rack in Eldo... I call it weight training, but it's also nice to have them when the situation calls for them, rare as that may be.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 21, 2004
|William - I've seen plenty of women lead this pitch; none of which had big nuts. Maybe large ovaries are a worthy substitute?
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scott, that's awesome. Perhaps they DO suffice. A note on the roof: Again, I did it facing outwards. I'm still not sure how that happened, but I like it. I think it has to do with the lack of [accessibility] of the toe-pocket on the left face at the crux. It's easier to reach when you do a pull-up facing outwards, then you can slap around the arete... Definitely had no style, just brutish roar-factor.
BEE MINDFUL OF THE BEES at the beelay. There were about 80 of them swarming around my partner Steve's head yesterday afternoon. Look for honeycomb in the crack on the way up for extra-credit!
By spanky
Mar 1, 2004
|on pitch 2 roof, has anyone else done what i did and just underclinged the whole thing? the holds under the roof just seemed too far to the right to be of any use. i must say that doing it this way the roof didn't seem to be any harder than its given rating.
By Adam Hicks`
May 3, 2004
|[Spanky], I did that as well-just underclinged as I walked my feet along until I could get my left hand in the V. It didn't seem that hard like this, just kind of funky, but overall not bad. I agree it was right for the grade, maybe even a little soft.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 5, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|Strenuous crux but well protected. Nice ragged alien offset in the roof crack. I struggled at the lip, but managed to pull myself over the roof. I placed a #2 camalot at the lip, stemmed WAY out with my left foot on nubbins (smearing), lay backed the roof, reached high with my left hand and pulled myself over. Solid 5.10.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 25, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|It appears many people are misled and intimidated by [what's] been written regarding the difficulty of placing solid gear on P1 of this route. IMO the first pitch can be led safely, with 6 pieces or less, and placed from decent stances... if you keep your head, trust your feet, and bring the right gear. Small Aliens... black, blue, green, yellow and a few small stoppers sew this up reasonably well.IMO there is what I consider decent edging all the way up through this crack. A text book yellow Alien placement or the like, near the middle of the arching crack, should be all a [competent] (9) leader needs in the last 8' or so to the corner. If you get to that point without incident, the corner should be no problem, and not require any additional pro...just send it! There are additional placements if you do feel the need. I placed a #2 Camalot a few feet above the corner just for grins, but its very easy climbing to the chains... Agree with Shane and others on P2 roof technique. I did it a similiar way, although I was following on that pitch. I layed the corner back and smeared up the face, hooking the left hand out around the block to the left. The long stem left seemed too far for me, but in hindsight, I think I'll try that technique next time, as my shorter partner used it, and made it look easy..
By Michael Amato
Nov 3, 2004
|Climbed Tagger today, followed P1 and led P2. Though I followed the first pitch, it appeared to have adequate pro (TCUs) and decent stances from which to place it. For me, the crux on the second pitch depended critically on my initial body position. After struggling with several attempts, I found that turning left under the big roof, facing out and pulling up with palms facing me on the large horizontal edge above allowed me to make an otherwise futile step left (I am 5'-9") to a dark smudge on the left face. I stuck my right foot somewhere and then used the inobvious edge/flake straight above on the left wall for my left hand, repositioned my right hand, almost mantling with it on the big edge, and continued with intuitive and now forgotten moves over the roof. After pumping out simply trying to assess what I was going to try to do, I ended up climbing this section with very little power, but rather with a few finesse moves... all totally dependent on my initial body position.
By Jason Shatek
May 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Led P2 for the first time tonight, WHOA what an awesome climb. We did P1 of [Tigger] and set up belay at the last ledge about 30-40 feet below the roof and it worked out really well. Although I had to hang dog my first time through the roof. 1 or 2 more times and I will redpoint this one for sure.
The protection is this, piton, fixed green Alien, piton and then I stuck a purple Friend high in the lip of the roof (though I would have probably used a bigger size in retrospect as it wasn't cammed all that well). Facing the left wall, you can work your right foot up on a series of ledges on the right side of the dihedral, just keep working the right foot up as this is key. Your left foot consists of crappy [crystal] to crappy crystal to crappy ledge, all the while laying back on the crack and moving the right foot up. I'm 6'1" and once my left foot was on the crappy ledge and my right foot was on the highest right ledge; I then could turn and grab the left side of the crack over the overhang with my left hand and a good hold just right of the crack with my right hand. This is where some grunting comes in, once you have those two holds you can move your left foot up to a bomber ledge and then its over. But that last move takes some effort as the position felt weird.
Also, the crack above and below the roof is really excellent!!! Bring lots of small to medium stoppers as I ran out and was pissed I couldn't get a bomber placement up above. I would say bring two sets of stoppers to sew it up.
By Jason Shatek
May 26, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Finally redpointed this one last night. On P2 - the pitons look OK, but the fixed green Alien is now pretty suspect. I took a couple falls on it last week and it held but you can back it up with a yellow Alien just below. Also, I skipped putting in a cam at the lip this time, its too strenuous and makes it so you can't grab the good hand hold in the crack. I fell a few times last week onto the green Alien one move before going over the roof and just fell to my feet it wasn't a hard fall at all. Thus, I'll skip the lip placement from here on out.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 28, 2005
|I would have to agree with Jason about the placement at the lip of the roof on pitch 2. I led it for the first time today and skipped the placement at the lip. [It] appeared as though a placement at the lip would just take away a good hand hold and you can get tons of gear in the roof itself. I fell once at almost the lip, and the angle of the wall in relation to your placements in the roof makes for a surprisingly soft landing. Great route, solid 5.10
By Jack Gerber
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2006
|I did Tagger this morning and found a bee's nest on the second pitch, 20 feet after the crux roof. My partner had to exit left and finish on Wind Ridge.
By patrick kadel
Jun 29, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
|A word about the bee's nest...the hive is not on this route, it is about 10 feet to the right of the route and about 20 feet from where you will belay. It is a non-issue. Maybe the bees moved???
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Dec 9, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good first pitch, solid stances to place gear and plenty of placements to keep the mind at ease. I've now placed the above mentioned nut that has pulled both times once past the piece placed after it (3 - 4 feet). Both times I used a sport quickdraw, maybe extending it would help. As for the climbing on the second pitch; good, solid moves, fun stance, I would recommend just letting your body tell you how to do this one. I tried stemming my way out originally, but I found it easier to just undercling/lieback to the edge, and get my left foot up high. Fun climb.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jul 9, 2007
|It concerns me that some posters are encouraging nut placements below the roof on P1. Take it for what it's worth, but I only found 1 nut placement in that section that would hold a fall if the piece was wrenched sideways. (This would be the case for most falls on that pitch). Bring the nuts for over the roof and beyond, though, 'cause it eats 'em up! Also, I suggest not belaying at the chains; take it all the way up to where the Tigger roof cuts left, and belay there for P2. Great climb.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2007
The fixed blue/green offset Alien and piton at the crux roof are still OK - they held several of my falls today, at least.
Also, we didn't see any bees.
By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 1, 2007
|The Alien in the P2 roof has been removed.
By max seigal
From: boulder
Aug 24, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|This is a super fun route. One can belay in the crack about 20 feet below the crux roof (making it more comfortable with your belayer right below you). For taller people, this route is not that bad.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|Totally agree this isn't a great first Eldo 9 lead. Laybacking and slippery. Placements are all there, just easy to slip off I think. I pretty much laybacked the roof on P2 off the slopey "jug" on the right side. With one hand in the undercling and one on the slopey jug...got my left foot way out on a v-shaped divot then matched hands on the slopey thing...then pulled into the crack and cranked my feet up and eventually up onto the big flat spot for the left foot. Then, it is pretty much over. Kind of a 5.8 with a boulder problem in the middle. I liked the first pitch a lot more. 2nd is a one move wonder, though a cool move. Offset cams useful for the 1st pitch.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Great route.
P1 is not to be taken lightly in my opinion. I placed plenty of solid gear, off good stances, but there was ample opportunity not to do so.... Many of the stances are somewhat devious IMO. I recommend small C3s/Aliens for the upper arching crack of P1, as nuts would probably pop/zipper out from the sideways and upwards pulls. I felt plenty safe, but it was very easy to see how people would rip gear (particularly nuts) and deck per the guidebook's description. I would only recommend this pitch to solid 5.10 leaders.
P2 is a three move wonder, but it is pretty damn fun! A gold Camalot goes in nicely just past the lip - strenuous to place but (for me) better than the alternative of crashing back onto the slab :) I got the onsight, and it felt like burly 10c to me, but I could see how once you knew the moves it might feel more like 10b or so. I didn't have one, but a red C3 would fit perfectly above the pin (mine was in the anchor). I placed a orange Metolius master cam instead....
By Greg Collins
Nov 11, 2008
|I'm really surprised about the mixed comments on pitch 1. This is relatively straightforward to protect with modern gear - if you have a set of offset Aliens even more so (I didn't place a single nut). Not trying to be macho, just to say that it's a really fun pitch and those who climb 5.9 (even if not 'solid') shouldn't avoid it due to rumors of hard to place gear or no stances - both abound.
By P.D.Williams
From: Lakewood
Jul 8, 2009
|Bring your smallest wired stoppers, copperheads, etc for the first pitch. The first one I place pulled out and created a sizeable runout. P2 is challenging - it took be a few tries; I'm not tall so maybe that's part of it.
By clint dillard
From: Louisville, Co
Oct 24, 2009
|Somehow I fell out of the handjam over the roof on P2 yesterday, I think someone pushed me but not sure. Anyway I took a nice whip on the pin under the roof and it held strong. I did have it backed up with a small cam, but all the force was on the pin. Drop test complete on the pin, at least for a little while longer.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
May 11, 2010
|Nice to know, Clint. 'Always liked you...especially when you do the dirty work for us.
By dameeser
From: denver
Aug 28, 2010
|Drop test on p2 pin was a success. Fun fall even though my feet did hit the ground a little.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Mar 14, 2011
|Pitch one can be protected well, but it takes some work and can get you pumped. I think the first pitch is one of the more sandbagged routes in Eldo, feels like 10c every time I lead it.
By Tommy Ormond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 9, 2011
|Got my feet way left, pressed the side of my head against the right side, and got a no hands rest in the middle of the crux. Then my foot skittered, and I over gripped like a school girl and got out of there. Awesome route, all of it. First pitch is cake to protect, no sweat.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
That 1st pitch is one of those pitches where it's amazing that there are so many different ways to do it, when it feels like there is so little there to work with. The key for me was "trust your feet", use opposition (pseudo-stem), and don't hang around looking.
That picture of Mic soloing it makes me want to puke, some people just have skills that others don't.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Cool route. P1 accepts gear well. The piton on the P2/3 roof is bomber. I don't see it coming out for a while. Besides great gear is right by it. You really don't need anything bigger than a #1. Lots of nutting.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My $0.02 since I've followed it a couple times and finally did it on lead yesterday. If you pay attention to your footwork, no gear placement is strenuous and it's definitely not R-rated, or even PG-13 for that matter. I never had gear below my feet and as soon as you get to the alcove there's a pseudo no-hands rest and a #0.75 C4 at your waist that is bomber. The rest of the crack sews up with small Metolius cams and C3s. Shortly into the horizontal-ish crack, there's a huge jug, and if you pay attention to your feet here, you barely need to weigh it.
As for pitch 2, I followed it and got worked.
By bonnie bonbits
From: colorado front range
Jun 14, 2014
|Honestly, leading the first section of the 5.9 pitch scares me more than leading the roof/crux section of the 5.10c pitch. The start of the first pitch feels indeed "stacked" to me with lots of "delicate" at best stances, with just a few, meaning literally three, "decent" stances, from which to place blind, tricky, mediocre protection at best. I certainly wouldn't want to risk let alone actually take a fall here. The theme to the first thirty feet: MIND YER BITS! Sadly, it's not R rating, no matter how much you're crying inside, and I earnestly know it's not even PG-13. -insert audible sigh here- meow, as fer the 10c roof protection bits: !@#$% !WARNING BETA BITS SURE TO ENSUE! %$#@! Pro: I'm almost certain I placed an orange TCU (though perhaps maybe a yellow) just before (nearly next to) the piton, I also clipped the piton, and placed a gray 0.4 BD C4 after the piton. (Then, my head case self "took" here and proceeded to make a "power equallette" out of a 4' sling and four locking biners to "beef up" and equalize the piton and TCU together - that TCU is in quite the shallow crack, and the crack is a bit rather composed of broken bits as well - and yes, I DO indeed carry all that shite on my harness, aka aluminum tutu.) Next, get a bomber hand jam from which to place a decent #1. The moves: footwork is KEY, be prepared to dance, and just as many others have mentioned, that happy plate of a jug ledge that literally bites back is oh so delicious! It easily holds both hands so you can hang out, dance, match sans piano bits, or just focus on jetting that bomber hand jam or placing that decent #1. The next beta bits, as for climbing out of the roof: I found that the Nov. 7, 2001 comment from Steve "Crusher" Bartlett sums it up best: "After pulling up, and craning your neck around for a while, you may notice that there appear to be no more handholds within reach to help with upward progress. Actually you are right, there are none. Swing your left foot over way left to the arete onto an unlikely foothold. At this point, start chimneying, by leaning your shoulder/back against the right wall/lip, using opposing pressure from your left foot. You end up pushing/sitting on the jug on the right, or, for extra style points, the right knee ends up on the same jug. Typical Eldo crux, baffling, counterintuitive, but ok once you have it figured out," and that's it, folks. Pitch 1, the 5.9, is type 2 fun. Pitch 2, the 5.10c, is "holy, man! I just did that! How awesome!" Kind of fun. ~bonbon
By SendaGorilla Bishop
From: Boulder
Feb 11, 2015
Wow! What a fantastic route! One of my favorite in Eldo, so far, for sure! I was literally laughing and giggling the whole way up...especially the 1st pitch! What a blast!
For those of you who have not done it and are in here contemplating leading it based off of these MP users and the "guidebook"--forget them...JUST DO IT!
Don't mind the naysayers!
This thing ( including the 1st pitch) is definitely NOT "R" rated...not even PG-13..or even PG. I had PLENTY of good stances..and ample opportunity to place bomber... yes, bomber placements! And everything was there...good feet...great jams!
Sure...maybe if you're a 5.10 sport climber fresh out of Boulder Canyon and used to clipping up bolt ladders, this will probably freak you out--BUT, if you have climbed in Eldo a few times and have led a few .9s here...then sack up and SEND this thing! Trust me, you won't be disappointed!
By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Apr 22, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'll comment again when I do the second pitch, but here are my thoughts on the first pitch:
It's frickin awesome. You should do it, like right now. The gear is a little awkward, but it's all good. I took a few good falls on nuts, and nothing pulled. I haven't done too many 5.9s, but this one felt harder and more committing than any of the 9s I've done. It was comparable to the first pitch of C'est La Vie, though shorter, and the gear a little trickier.
By Theodore Morrow
From: Golden, Co
Feb 23, 2016
This was my first 5.9 trad lead. If you haven't led much trad, listen up here....GREAT ROUTE. Also pretty scary. I had done one finger crack in Lumpy Ridge once before this, so my finger crack technique is non-existent. Also it takes 'em a couple of tries on nut/cam size usually too. Now that you know I clearly am not an accomplished trad climber, let me tell you how it went. Cool cross to the jug under the roof, clipped a fixed nut there which felt pretty bomb, and used the massive underclings to get to the jugs and pull the first roof. I was scared so much on this route due to my gear placements being shitty and the route being delicate. Top roped it again, and it was pretty easy, will go again and do the second pitch next time for sure!
PS: had trouble setting nuts in the finger crack due to glassiness (one fell out when I pulled the roof).
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Oct 1, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Having led the first pitch many times, it protects quite well for me. I think the R rating comes more from the days when it originally went free without the plethora of small cans in use these days. You CAN find good nut placements and augmented with TCUs, etc, it is good pro, and stances are fine. Perhaps not great for the budding 5.9 leader as it is pretty sustained, but use your feet well, and it's not pumpy.
Led second pitch yesterday, hadn't been on it since the mid '80s. Resorted to a couple hangs at the lip to get a cam placement sorted and figure out the moves. Seemed very hard comparatively for the grade. Went and led Outer Space afterward, which seemed casual in comparison. Likewise, March of Dimes' third pitch is much easier. Tagger roof seems more comparable to Northcutt Start in difficulty though very different style of climbing. Maybe just me, but Tagger roof is burly!


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Is your kid a reluctant learner?
Find out how to get your kid excited about being back at school. more
Vegetarians are people who don't eat meat or meat products. There are a variety of reasons why people become vegetarian, be they ethical, environmental, health or cultural. If you're vegetarian, you may want rear your child to eat in the same way you do.
While a vegetarian diet can provide all the nutrients a healthy child needs for growth and development, special consideration needs to be taken as your child has higher needs for proteins and certain vitamins and minerals to meet their daily requirements. For this reason, a strict vegan diet is usually not recommended for young children, as small deficiencies in vitamins and minerals can have a huge impact on development.
There are a number of different ways of being a vegetarian, with the main ones being:
While there are some vegetarians who only eat 'white' meat (chicken and fish), they are not actually vegetarians but are instead people who don't eat red meat.
Introducing a vegetarian diet to a very young child is not difficult or complicated as long as you ensure that his protein needs are met once you've introduced solid food to his diet.
This article was written by Ella Walsh for Kidspot. Sources include Vic Govt's Better Health Channel and SA Government's Parenting and Child Health
This article was created for Kidspot - Australia's parenting resource for school age.
Last revised: Wednesday, 18 June 2008
This article contains general information only and is not intended to replace advice from a qualified health professional.


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Operates easily with either hand
Large amount of disk brake surface
The all time Scotty leader in performance and sales. One-foot-per-turn spool operates easily with either hand from a sitting position in the boat.
Standard features include:
* 23" long, 3/4" diameter stainless steel boom
* Quick-slide No. 1010 deck mounting bracket
* Adjustable boom-mounted Rod Master II
* Rod holder
* Spray protected, positive drive depth counter
* Scotty Power Grip Plus line release
* Quick-slide No. 1010 deck mounting bracket
* An automatic brake with the most disk brake surface on the market. In the event of a bottom hang-up, it will pay-out to avoid losing gear.
* 200 ft. of premium 150 lb. stainless steel downrigger cable


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Sign into our member site to view your information online.Forget your username or password? Not registered? Register here
nystatin (generic name)
It is used to treat certain kinds of fungal or yeast infections
(nye STAT in)
Table of Contents
Top Learning Centers(Recursos en Español)
What is this medicine?NYSTATIN (nye STAT in) is an antifungal medicine. It is used to treat certain kinds of fungal or yeast infections.
What should I tell my health care provider before I take this medicine?They need to know if you have any of these conditions:
How should I use this medicine?Follow the directions on the prescription label. Shake well before using. Use a specially marked dropper to measure every dose. Ask your pharmacist if you do not have one. Put one half of the dose in each side of your mouth. Swish the medicine around in your mouth and gargle. Hold your dose in your mouth for as long as you can. Swallow or spit out as directed by your doctor. Take your medicine at regular intervals. Do not take your medicine more often than directed. Do not skip doses or stop your medicine early even if you feel better. Do not stop taking except on your doctor's advice.
Talk to your pediatrician regarding the use of this medicine in children. Special care may be needed.
What if I miss a dose?If you miss a dose, take it as soon as you can. If it is almost time for your next dose, take only that dose. Do not take double or extra doses.
What may interact with this medicine?Interactions are not expected.
What should I watch for while using this medicine?Tell your doctor or health care professional if your symptoms do not improve or get worse. If you wear dentures talk to your doctor about how to clean them.
What side effects may I notice from receiving this medicine?Side effects that you should report to your doctor or health care professional as soon as possible:
Side effects that usually do not require medical attention (report to your doctor or health care professional if they continue or are bothersome):
Where should I keep my medicine?Keep out of the reach of children.
Store at room temperature between 15 and 25 degrees C (59 and 77 degrees F). Protect from light. Throw away any unused medicine after the expiration date.
Remember, keep this and all other medicines out of the reach of children, never share your medicines with others, and use this medication only for the indication prescribed.


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NetWellness is a global, community service providing quality, unbiased health information from our partner university faculty. NetWellness is commercial-free and does not accept advertising.
Wednesday, September 20, 2017
Metabolic syndrome (also called Syndrome X) is a group of conditions that give you a higher chance, or risk, of getting diabetes and heart disease. These conditions are:
Some experts think that if you have 3 or more of the above conditions, you have metabolic syndrome. Metabolic syndrome is not a new disease. It is just an easier way to describe a set of risk factors that doctors see in their patients.
The best way to protect yourself from metabolic syndrome is to follow a healthy lifestyle. If you have metabolic syndrome, your doctor may give you drugs to treat your conditions. You can help protect yourself and reduce your risk by:
Eating a heart-healthy diet!
For more help on how to start healthy habits, see http://1.usa.gov/met_synd (National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute).
To find out if you are at risk for developing Diabetes, visit Your Diabetes Risk.
It is possible that insulin resistance causes metabolic syndrome. Insulin resistance occurs when your body has trouble using insulin to change the glucose (sugar) in your bloodstream into energy. This causes higher blood sugar levels and increases your chances of developing type 2 diabetes and heart disease.
You can prevent or reverse insulin resistance and your chances of getting diabetes by:
Many research studies are underway to help us learn about metabolic syndrome. Would you like to find out more about being part of this exciting research? Please visit the following links:
This article originally appeared in Chow Line, a service of Ohio State University Extension and the Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center and was adapted for use on NetWellness with permission.
Last Reviewed: May 01, 2012
Hugo Melgar-Quinonez, PhD
Assistant Professor
College of Education and Human Ecology
The Ohio State University


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'But consider this: The acquisition of Klepis means the Sabres now have the rights to three of the first 20 players selected in the first round of the 2002 NHL Entry Draft. Not since the 1982 and 1983 seasons, when Scotty Bowman was the combo coach/GM, have the Sabres had those kinds of numbers. Two of those first rounders, Dave Andreychuk and Phil Housely, are still playing, and Tom Barrasso only recently retired.'
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Macklemore & Ryan Lewis lend hit song to anti-discrimination PSA
Macklemore & Ryan Lewis have thrown their support behind an anti-discrimination campaign by allowing their hit song Same Love to be used as the soundtrack for a new public service announcement (PSA). The hip-hop hitmakers also feature in the advert for Characters Unite, a public service programme which was created to address the "social injustices and cultural divides still prevalent in… society", and they are happy to have their gay rights anthem adopted by organisation officials.
A statement from the Grammy-winning musicians reads, "We intended Same Love to help spread a message of love, tolerance and acceptance and we are proud to align ourselves with the Characters Unite movement which shares the same goal.
"Through the new Characters Unite PSA, we hope to inspire even more people to take part in such an important cause."
Other stars who have taken part in the PSA, titled I Wont Stand For, include actors Matt Bomer, Patrick J. Adams, Gina Torres and Reshma Shetty.
Macklemore & Ryan Lewis performed Same Love with Madonna and Mary Lambert at the Grammy Awards last Sunday (26Jan14), when Queen Latifah officiated marriages between 33 gay, straight and interracial couples as part of the stars' set.


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Prices, promotions, styles, and availability may vary. Our local stores do not honor online pricing. Prices and availability of products and services are subject to change without notice. Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted.
Three D Traffic Works 3-ft x 2-1/2-ft Blue Detectable Warning Tile
Item # 25228 Model # EZS3X2.5BL
Product Information
- Quickest and easiest surface mount tactile warning system on the market, installs on existing compliant sidewalk curb ramps
- The EZS3X2.5BL measures 36" X 30" and has molded-in blue color
- Detectable warning tile has a pressure sensitive backing which adheres to both concrete and asphalt surfaces while conforming to the underlying substrate due to the flexibility of the polymer composite material
- Complies with ADAAG specifications for detectable warning surfaces on sidewalk curb ramps, transit platforms and hazardous vehicular areas
- Made in the USA; truncated dome tile is slip-resistant and has a waterproof surface
- Sealing the tile perimeter is recommended using urethane adhesive (sold separately)
- Installation instructions and surface primer included
- Minimum order of 2 EZS3X2.5BL will make a 36" X 60" tile after installation, using the easy to follow instructions which will insure a satisfactory and compliant installation
- Polymer composite material has a 5-year manufacturer's limited warranty and will not crack, chip, break, crush or wear down
|Battery Operated
|Manufacturer Color/Finish
|Color/Finish Family


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Topic: Lauren had an allergic reaction to Oxaliplatin
Lauren had labs, doctor visit, and chemo infusion today or should I say yesterday (Wed.) because it is after midnight now. This was to be the 6th infusion of Oxaliplatin. She finished the infusions of Magnesium and Calcium and was just starting on the bag of Oxaliplatin. It had been reduced in strength because her platelets were fairly low. Her Grandma, my Mom was sitting back with her. Lauren said she started to feel kind of weird and itchy. She went to the restroom and said her stomach itched so bad and she scratched so hard that she was bleeding under the skin. She said she looked in the mirror and her face was beet red. It had turned that red just from the time she went to the restroom. She came back out and told her nurse she didn't feel well and told my Mom to go get me. I was in the waiting room because of the one visitor per patient rule. It kind of scared me and when I got back there a bunch of nurses were all running around and they got a PA. She took charge and started telling them what to do. I remember her yelling Stat really loud. Lauren said it felt like her ears were closing and her face. ears, and scalp were so red. They gave her Benedryl 3 times in her iv, 75 mg. total. They also gave her steroids and hydrocortisone in her iv. She had a blood pressure cuff and pulse oximeter on her finger. She developed hives all over. They sat and watched her for a long time. They hung a really large bag of saline and ran it full speed. I was quite impressed with all of their efficiency in handling the matter. She began to feel better after about an hour. Her doctor had told us that Oxaliplatin gets difficult to handle around the 6th infusion. Boy, did he hit that right on the head. She probably won't be able to have it again unless they figure a way that won't cause that reaction. I am kind of worried because it worked well for her and now what is he going to give her? Will it work? She is still supposed to take her Xeloda starting tomorrow or Friday, whichever feels better to her. She seems perfectly fine now. She was terrified when it happened. I never dreamed this would happen to her. Up until this point, she has handled her chemos very well with few side effects. Her poor nurse was frazzled because Lauren and another one of her patients both had bad reactions to Oxaliplatin on the same day.
My comments, suggestions, and opinions are based on my experience as a caretaker for my daughter, Lauren and from reading anything I can get my hands on about Cholangiocarcinoma. Please consult a physician for professional guidance.


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Sneak peek inside...
For a great selection of film, comic and TV action figures and collectibles, check out BigBadToyStore.com, BriansToys.com, ToyWiz.com, PastGenerationToys.com, Urban-Collector.com, ToyDorks.com, MonkeyDepot.com, HobbyLinkJapan.com, and Sekaido.com.
To insure your action figure collection, get in touch with our sponsor Collectibles Insurance.
Icon Heroes, makers of Thundercats "staction" figures, provides a glimpse at their next character: JAGA (pending licensor approval). Jaga joins previous releases Lion-O and Jackalman.


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The first acquisition for young Silicon Valley social network Pinterest is a site that made its mark offering cooks the ability to easily share and discover popular recipes.
Punchfork — which is based in Palo Alto, Calif., the same city where Pinterest got its start — announced in a blog post Thursday that it had been acquired by the social-networking startup for an undisclosed sum.
Punchfork is similar to Klout for recipes, measuring the number of times recipes have been shared on such social networks as Twitter, Facebook and Pinterest, and assigning the recipe a score based on its popularity.
In his blog post, Punchfork founder and CEO Jeff Miller said the site's mission was to "help home cooks discover new, high quality recipes and share them with family and friends."
Pinterest's visually oriented approach, allowing users to create virtual bulletin boards and "pin" their favourite items to them, should mesh well with the recipe-sharing approach Punchfork developed, the San Francisco company said.
"Punchfork helps people discover popular new recipes in a visual way and encourages them to share these recipes with their family and friends. People come to Pinterest to find inspiration for their everyday lives and we think Punchfork's mission aligns with this well," a Pinterest spokeswoman said in a January 3 email.
Though Punchfork will continue to support its products for a time, the startup's website, mobile app and API will eventually be retired, Miller said, and the company's workers will join the Pinterest team in San Francisco.
"The Punchfork team will focus on contributing to Pinterest as the premier platform for discovering and sharing new recipes and other interests on the Web," Miller wrote.


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Colombia 2 Uruguay 0
Goal of the tournament: James Rodriguez volleys Colombia in front. Photo: Reuters
Sometimes, the good guys do win. That was overwhelming story of the Maracana on this humid June night.
Once a synonym for all that was wrong with this region, Colombia delivered the World Cup a slab of meaty, mob justice by knocking out Uruguay, whose enfant terrible, Luis Suarez, watched on helplessly as home.
This completed the perfect day for the host nation. Not only were they able to overcome Chile up in Belo Horizonte but their Maracana, after 64 years, would finally extract a most cathartic revenge on Uruguay.
Juan Guillermo Cuadrado of Colombia celebrates his team's second goal. Photo: Getty Images
Just as poetically, the stadium would witness a spectacular performance from a number 10 wearing a yellow shirt: James Rodriguez.
The exquisitely talented 22-year old scored both goals, a first-half volley of pure individual brilliance and technique before putting the final touch on a perfect team move early in the second half.
Now Brazil and Colombia get to face off with each other next Friday (Saturday morning AEST) in Fortaleza, which promises all sorts of wonder. Given Chile went within a crossbar of defeating Brazil, Los Cafeteros will feel they are every chance.
Colombia's James Rodriguez scores his second goal. Photo: Reuters
So much of the pre-game build-up was about Suarez: his absence, his ban, his bite, his future. He'd have made a difference, as great players do, but not enough to turn this in his nation's favour.
Besides, it has somehow been forgotten that Colombia are without Radamel Falcao, one of the world's best strikers. The difference is that Falcao's Monaco teammate, Rodriguez, is making up for his absence.
The result was no less than they deserved, for they played with attacking intent from the opening whistle, keeping the ball in their relentless passing cycle that used every man on the pitch.
World Cup 2014: Colombia v Uruguay highlights
Colombia's James Rodriguez celebrates with his teammates after scoring his side's second goal. Photo: AP
Uruguay didn't apply much forward pressure either, preferring to stack numbers defensively. When the scoreboard revealed Colombia's percentage of possession was hovering at 70 per cent, their fans keenly applauded a moral victory.
Coach Jose Pekerman stood on the edge of his box, nervously riding each play. He needn't have worried. Just before the half-hour mark, he could be at peace.
Some nifty head tennis ended with Rodriguez taking the ball down on his chest, turning and firing a left-foot volley and that brushed Fernando Muslera's flailing fingertip, hit the underside of the bar and crashed in.
It might not be the last time Rodriguez does it at this tournament; perhaps not the last time in this stadium. It is hosting the final, after all.
The game needed the goal. It forced Uruguay to come out and play. A tangle between two men who should know better, Colombia's 38-year old Mario Yepes and Uruguay's 35-year old Diego Forlan, reflected the rising palpable tension.
All except those in sky blue were bouncing when the Colombians doubled their advantage in the second half. If the first goal was a piece of solo quality, this was its collective equal.
The Colombians swept down the field on the right but, running out of room, switched the play and eventually the late run of Pablo Armero was spotted down the vacant left. He curled in a cross that floated beyond the far post to Juan Cuadrado, who selflessly headed down to Rodriguez for a squared finish.
The Uruguayans don't take losing well, certainly not on the big stage, and their reflex action to any trickery was physical. The Colombians spent the final 30 minutes frequently floored by the studs, elbows and knees of their beaten rivals.
When Gaston Ramierez followed through on Armero, everyone winced. Few countries so keenly seek the edge of savagery.
Not that they were only brutal, for Uruguay have always produced skilful players. They pressed forward and created, and Edinson Cavani nearly snuck an effort in the bottom corner, only for David Ospina's eagle-eyes to see everything first.
But the bad boys now need to spend some time in the naughty corner, while the rest of us can bask in the delights Rodriguez and ponder what lies ahead for him and his thrilling team.


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Marketing Information
A simple, ultra-modern design and wireless RF technology makes this mouse both comfortable and easy to use.The USB receiver fits into the mouse battery compartment for easy storage when not in use.Unlike larger dongles that can be distracting or get in the way, this ultra-slim wireless receiver seamlessly blends in with the contours of your PC to maintain its sleek profile.
An 800dpi laser captures every movement and ensures smooth, pinpoint navigation on virtually any surface3.Optional power save mode preserves and extends the battery life.A low friction, non-stick PTFE sole reduces strain on hand and allows for easy and swift movement.New energy efficient technology offers you up to 4 months3 of battery life.
General Information
|Product Type
|Manufacturer Part Number
|Manufacturer Website Address
|Sony Corporation
|Product Model
|Product Name
|Wireless Laser Mouse
|Product Line
|Brand Name
Pointing Device
|Movement Detection
|Movement Resolution
|800 dpi
|Pointing Device Connectivity Technology
|Pointing Device Wireless Technology
|Radio Frequency
|Number of Total Buttons
|Scroller Type
|Scroll Wheel
|Pointing Device Host Interface
Physical Characteristics
|Weight (Approximate)
|102.1 g
|38.1 mm
|63.5 mm
|116.8 mm
|Package Contents
This product is shipped only within Canada and Warranty valid for Canada only.
Computer Valley makes every effort to provide accurate specifications, descriptions, images and price on all products that are found on www.computervalley.ca
However for complete and updated descriptions, compatibilities, specifications and actual photo we recommend our clients to consult with manufacturer's websites or simply call us for proper clarifications. Computer Valley is not responsible and will not accept returns for items purchased that are not compatible with your system. Please ensure that you have verified compatibility and actual photo with your system by visiting the manufacturer's web site prior to purchase or give us a call to make sure what you are purchasing.
For more information, visit our Shipping and Return policy.
Computer Valley wants to provide you with the best and fastest possible service. We try to ship in stock orders placed before 2:00pm EST the same day. For in stock orders placed after 2:00pm EST they are usually shipped the next business day. However there are always exceptions. Please contact us prior to placing your order if you need your purchase by a certain date.
We ship by UPS, FEDEX, USPS, CANADA POST , PUROLATOR and LOOMIS from the nearest locations possible based on stock in hand.
Please note: Computer Valley reserves the rights to accept and cancel any order at anytime due to pricing error or any other reason. An email will be sent as a confirmation of the order status.
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When Your Dinner is Too ColdRiddles are little poems or phrases that pose a question that needs answering. Riddles frequently rhyme, but this is not a requirement.
What do you do when your dinner is too cold?
I'll solve your problem before you start to scold.
Just give me your dinner with a lid on top,
Push my button and I'll make your food hot!
What am I?
AnswerA microwave oven! You put the food in, then you push the START button, and it heats up your food for you!
What Next?
See another brain teaser just like this one...
Or, just get a random brain teaser
If you become a registered user you can vote on this riddle, keep track of
which ones you have seen, and even make your own.
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For the last few weeks I have found myself uttering words that I never thought I'd hear myself say: "I'm going back to China next month." That follows last year's even more incredulous "I am going to China." Before being informed that I would be on AIN's on-site convention edition staff for last year's relaunch of the Asian Business Aviation Conference & Exhibition (ABACE), I had approximated the odds of my going to China as about the same as my visiting the moon. Not that it wasn't on my wishlist, of course; I just didn't see it happening any time soon.
So it was with a sense of disbelief that I found myself this time a year ago at the Shanghai Hawker Pacific Business Aviation Service Centre. The show itself was crackling with anticipation, and by the end, most of the exhibitors I spoke with couldn't wait to put their deposits down to reserve a spot for this year's show. One even told me that he couldn't wait to taunt industry peers (who had demurred on attending last year's show until it was sold out) about what they had missed. The ramp at Hongqiao International Airport was packed with heavy iron and chalets from all the major OEMs. With the exception of the cumbersome, inadequate and expensive on-site food situation (brought on in part by having to conform to stringent airport food quarantine regulations), last year's show was a resounding success, which even spurred discussion between NBAA and its Chinese hosts on the possibility of building of a dedicated airport exhibition center along the lines of Geneva's PalExpo (home of EBACE).
Based on those building blocks it will be interesting to see whether the buzz around last year's show was simply an indication of pent-up demand in the region for the show (previously last held in 2008 and subsequently postponed in successive years due to the global economic malaise), or if 2012's ABACE helps validate the industry's hopes for an Asia-led surge in recovery.
Show organizers clearly believe the latter. Nearly 4,000 attendees passed through the show site's metal detectors last year, and an NBAA spokesman said they are gearing up for approximately 7,000 visitors for this year's edition (which kicks off on April 16). While 84 percent of the exhibitors are returning this year, the spots of the 16 percent that declined were quickly snapped up, as the overall number of companies will rise from 156 to 175 and there will be several more aircraft in the static display (including Gulfstream's new flagship, the G650). Whether this show will have the same energy as last year's will be decided in just a few weeks, and I'm looking forward to witnessing it.
In the meantime, I still find amusement in the thought that while I'm there, I'll know where to find a good Indian restaurant near Shanghai's Jing'an Temple.
Park (not verified)
March 26, 2013 - 11:40am
If you need to fix an Indian craving in Shanghai, try Masala Art.
Not too far from Jing'An (by cab)
397 Dagu Road
Jing'an, Shanghai, China
Robert W. Hutto (not verified)
March 27, 2013 - 1:21am
While there are many restaurants in China that cater to the international palate, one should not dedicate all of their social time in Shanghai eating Indian food! Shanghai (and other cities in the general location) is home to some of the finest Chinese cuisine in the world! If able to go to Beijing there is a fantastic Peking Duck restaurant near the Legendale Hotel that is incredible. Wherever a person elects to dine, they will find warm hospitality, and fantastic food that will satisfy anyone's taste.
Rachel (not verified)
April 8, 2013 - 9:25pm
Haha! That was an entertaining article. I'll be at ABACE again this year too, but taking the metro from city center Shanghai.
By the way, if you haven't been introduced to Di Shui Dong yet, it's fabulous for visitors to Shanghai. Get the ribs!


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Juniper tip blight is a common disease of junipers found in most states east of the Mississippi River. There are many varieties of junipers susceptible to tip blights; however, the disease is most serious on young or newly transplanted plants. As the plant matures, disease susceptibility and severity decreases. Occasionally it can infect arborvitae, cedar, European larch, jack pine, and Douglas-fir. The two most common juniper tip blight diseases are Phomopsis juniperovora (Phomopsis tip blight) and Kabatina juniperi (Kabatina tip blight).
Phomopsis tip blight
Phomopsis tip blight, sometimes referred to as juniper twig blight, is mainly a leaf and shoot infection that affects the new, young foliage of junipers. The first symptoms, yellow spots on young needles, may occur 3-5 days after infection. (Sometimes older needles may also show spotting.) The fungus then enters young stem tissue causing dieback of the new shoot tips. Affected foliage turns dull red to brown and then ash gray. As the disease progresses, small lesions (cankers) form on the stems where infected and healthy tissue meet. Eventually the entire branch may die. Infection is spread primarily by splashing rain, wind, insects, or mechanical means. Repeated infections occur when temperatures are between 70 - 80 degrees F, during periods of high humidity, and when foliage is wet. The fungus can persist in dead parts of infected plants for as long as two years.
Kabatina tip blight
Kabatina causes symptoms very similar to Phomopsis, but usually only infects twigs a year or more old. This fungus does not infect healthy foliage, but enters through wounds caused by pruning, insects, or severe winter weather. The first symptoms, dull green then red or yellow discoloration of branch tips, appears in February and March, well before symptoms of Phomopsis tip blight appear. As the disease progresses, spores are formed in the small, ash-gray lesions (cankers) found at the junction between infected and healthy tissue. The brown, dried foliage eventually drops from the plant in late May or June. Kabatina tip blight occurs only in the early spring and does not cause extensive branch die back. The primary infection period for the Kabatina fungus is autumn, even though symptoms are not apparent until late winter or early spring.
Although Phomopsis and Kabatina blights cause almost identical symptoms, their stages of development and control differ. Therefore, it is important to distinguish between the two.
- Plant trees and shrubs that are resistant to Phomopsis and Kabatina tip blight.
- When planting, avoid heavily shaded areas and space plants to allow for good air circulation.
- Avoid wounding plants, especially in spring and fall.
- Water plants in early morning so foliage will dry during the day.
- Prune out diseased branch tips during dry summer weather and destroy.
- If the infection is severe, removal of the plant may be necessary. Replace with a resistant tree selection.
- Avoid excessive pruning or shearing.
Chemical control of Phomopsis and Kabatina tip blight is normally not needed. Occasionally, fungicide applications may be used to treat susceptible junipers to control Phomopsis blight.
Phomopsis Tip Blight: To control or protect new growth, apply fungicides at 7 to 21-day intervals during rapid plant growth in early spring.
• Bordeaux
• Copper sulfate
• Mancozeb (many products)
• Thiophanate-methyl (Cleary's 3336, Domain)
Kabatina tip blight: Kabatina infections occur in the fall and there are currently no fungicides used to control this disease.
Refer to the Illinois Urban Pest Management Handbook (University of Illinois Cooperative Extension Service) for a complete listing of chemical recommendations. Use pesticides safely and wisely; read and follow label directions.
The pesticide information presented in this publication is current with federal and state regulations. The user is responsible for determining that the intended use is consistent with the label of the product being used.
The information given here is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement made by The Morton Arboretum.