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Soybean yield is derived from plants per acre, pods per plant, seeds per pod, and weight of seeds. Of these components, plants per acre is the one most controlled by the producer through seeding rate.
Assuming a reasonable or acceptable plant population density that will result from planting high quality seed at a pre-selected rate into usually ideal conditions for emergence, this leaves pods per plant, seeds per pod, and weight of individual seeds as the yield components controlled by the plant and its environment.
These latter three soybean yield components are sometimes lumped into two basic ones-seeds per acre (combines pods per plant and seeds per pod) and seed size, which is usually expressed as seeds per pound.
The goal of a soybean producer is to maximize the number of seeds per acre and weight of individual seeds to realize maximum yield potential of a particular variety. The controlling factor in this effort is usually water, assuming proper soil fertility and control of pests and weeds. Lack of optimum water at pod set and during seed fill will result in decreased yields because of fewer and smaller seed.
A producer's capability to irrigate should ensure that the maximum number of pods are set, that the maximum number of seed per pod develop, and that the seed that are developed will attain their maximum size for a given variety. Thus, the critical decisions involved in irrigation management for soybeans are when to start and when to stop in order to achieve the maximum number of seed and the maximum weight of individual seeds.
The decision of when to start irrigating soybeans can be easily determined, especially since early-season rainfall in the Midsouth is usually adequate to maintain necessary soil moisture.
So, irrigating early- and normal-planted soybeans is rarely if ever necessary before they start blooming, which is R1. In fact, for early-planted soybeans, there is ample evidence that starting irrigation before R3 or beginning podset is not required when rainfall during vegetative development is normal. Also, both R1 and R3 are easily determined.
Remember, the critical yield components of soybeans are number of seeds per acre and weight of individual seeds. Thus, it is my opinion that the hardest decision is when to stop or terminate soybean irrigation so that the high seed load established by early irrigations will attain maximum weight per seed. The importance of attaining maximum seed size to achieve maximum soybean yield is presented here.
To achieve maximum yield, soybeans should have adequate water available through physiological maturity (PM). My definition of PM of a crop plant is that point where seed are at their maximum dry weight; i.e., translocation of photosynthate into the seed has completed.
For corn, PM is reached when the black layer has formed. This layer is easily recognizable. Also, the time to black layer formation in corn is predictable. PM in soybeans is not so easily defined or predicted.
The present determination of PM in soybeans is based on an ill-defined and ambiguous criterion of how seed appear in a pod. There is no clearcut indicator of this point that corresponds to the black layer in corn. This subjective determination of PM in soybeans creates a quandary, especially when a defined PM is needed to estimate when to terminate irrigation.
In my experience, R5 or beginning seed in soybeans is rather easily determined. Conversely, in my experience R6 or full seed and R7 or beginning maturity are not. This leads to the following thoughts.
- I know of no research that has established a seed component that indicates soybean seed maturity. Thus, a research project to determine whether or not there is such a chemical indicator of PM in soybeans would be justified.
- Researchers at the LSU AgCenter determined that a harvest aid applied at 40% average seed moisture content did not reduce seed yield and seed weight. This moisture content roughly coincides with stage R6.5, which they describe as "pod cavities have completely filled and all seed are separating from the white membrane inside the pod". Thus, these research results indicate that soybean seed maturity apparently is reached at R6.5. But again, this stage is also subject to rater interpretation and thus may not be consistently determined.
- Using the above results, a better way to use PM as the guidepoint for soybean irrigation termination is to determine when this 40% average seed moisture content is reached in varieties from various soybean maturity groups-e.g. MG's 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5. Once this has been documented, the number of days from R5 to this point can be calculated.
- For example, if it is determined that the number of days from R5 to PM is 35 days, and it is known that a last irrigation applied to soybeans will provide adequate water for 10 days at the end of the season, then the last irrigation in this case can be applied 25 days after R5 to supply enough water to carry seed to PM. Using this method, there would be no need to be concerned about seed stages past R5.
With the increasing irrigation of soybeans and the concern about conserving the irrigation water supply in Mississippi, the above points are worthy of consideration to ensure that irrigation water is not wasted at the end of the soybean growing season.


text:
mutsuk wrote:username wrote: Say hello to JLA from me.
I sure will! What name should I forward in the message ?
Tell him a new generation of ingie Bon readers like mutsuk have taken over & in unthought of ways they will actually help the cause. Love you but must leave you mutsy

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Clearly I need to improve my reachback, it is not a level plane at all. Any tips on how to achieve that? Also any other comments are more then welcome. First 2 throws are buzz's, last 3 are teeebirds. Wind is slightly in my face @5mph. The woodline is about 325' away.
http://www.youtube.com/user/upchuck1383 ... DqjjyO-bQA
Lets see if that link works!


text:
Garber: Count the many values in your landscape
April 1, 2012
Here are five things to think about in terms of what your landscape brings to your home's worth, the environment and your own well-being.
Landscaping can add as much as 15 percent to the resale value of a building and speed up its sale as much as six weeks. Each dollar spent on landscaping can return up to $1.35 when the home is sold. Conversely, homes with poor landscapes can expect a sales price 8-10 percent below equivalent homes that have good landscape appeal.
Carefully selected and placed trees around your home can lower cooling costs as much as 25 percent.
Shading the air conditioning unit can increase its effectiveness by 10 percent.
Planting ground covers, shrubs and lawns reduces the heat reflected from the ground and onto walls and windows for a cooler indoors and more energy savings.
Water and maintenance used to keep plants healthy doesn't go down the drain. Did you know that:
Recommended Stories For You
An average tree absorbs 26 lbs. of carbon dioxide from the air each year. That quals 11,000 miles of car emissions.
The front lawns of eight houses have the cooling effect of about 70 tons of air conditioning. That's amazing when you consider that the average home has an air conditioner with just a three or four ton capacity.
Turf grass also serves as a natural filter to reduce pollution by purifying the water passing through its root zone.
The amount spent on growing a veggie garden brings back 7 to 10 times the initial investment in your own locally-grown produce.
You can burn as many calories in 45 minutes of gardening as in 30 minutes of aerobics.
Weed for just one hour and you burn 300 calories!
Studies have shown that women recover from breast cancer surgery quicker if they spend time in a garden.
Children with Attention Deficit Disorder have been found to have better focus and concentration when they are allowed to play outdoors in green spaces.
And on the purely personal level found in your own back yard, there's no better ambiance than dining al fresco, especially, if you grew the salad and used your own home-grown herbs to flavor the main course. That value is priceless!
Courtesy Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and Neils Lunceford, a landscaping company based in Silverthorne that is a member. You may contact them at (970) 468-0340.


text:
Get an overview of this hotelTokyo property near Studio Alta
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Simply enter your Nectar card number when you check out. Your points will be credited 35 days after you return from your trip.
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Popular property highlights
One block from Kabuki-cho entertainment district, this 25-story hotel is within two km (1.2 miles) of the Shinjuku National Garden, and the Meiji-jingu Shrine.
Property amenities
Dining options include a buffet-style dining venue, a 25th-floor lounge with views of downtown, and a formal Japanese restaurant.
Each of the hotel's 571 guestrooms offers free WiFi and city views. They include wooden writing desks with lamps, cable/satellite TVs, and slippers.Information missing or incorrect? Tell us!Opens in a new window
Shinjuku Prince Hotel
Hotel Amenities
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Built in 1977 and renovated in 2008, the Shinjuku Prince Hotel is found in a 25-story building which also contains a shopping center. The property includes a shopping area selling women's and men's accessories, toys, and souvenirs. Complimentary wireless Internet access is available in the lobby area. Wired high-speed Internet access is also available, as are copy and fax services. Express check-out, tour assistance, and banquet and meeting facilities totaling 190 square meters are available.
- 24-hour front desk
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Brick - Party and meeting space. Available on request only.
Prince Marche - Casual buffet restaurant serving both Western and Japanese cuisine. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Bright interior with wood floors and tables. Cloth-seated chairs or bench seating.
The Station Café and Bar - Located next to the front desk. Serves light meals, tea, coffee, and alcoholic drinks. Cash-on-delivery service style. Open from morning to night.
Fuga-Wafu (Japanese) Dining and Bar - Formal Japanese restaurant located on 25th floor. Course meals and à la carte items. Open for lunch and dinner.
Garnet - Party and meeting space. Available on request only.
If you have requests for specific accessibility needs, please note them at check-out when you book your room.
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Hotel Name
- Hotel Prince Shinjuku
- Hotel Shinjuku Prince
- Prince Hotel Shinjuku
- Prince Shinjuku
- Prince Shinjuku Hotel
- Shinjuku Hotel
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- Shinjuku Prince
- Shinjuku Prince Hotel
- Prince Hotel Tokyo
- Shinjuku Prince Hotel Tokyo
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Green Program
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Please contact hotel for more information.


text: With one-click, SimpleDeployr will launch an Amazon EC2 server, configure the server, checkout your code and add the server to a load balancer so you can get your app up and live to the world in only a few minutes. After the initial setup, it's only one more click to launch more servers, or deploy your latest code across all servers. Learn more here: http://blog.appoxy.com/2010/01/blog-one-click-launch-deploy-and-scale.html


text:
Harrison, Darvish both Opening Night options
SURPRISE, Ariz. -- Rangers manager Ron Washington has an idea of who his Opening Night pitcher will be -- either Matt Harrison or Yu Darvish -- but is refraining from making an announcement.
"It comes down to performance, experience, matchups...we could go either way," Washington said.
The Rangers open the season on March 31 against the Astros at 7:05 p.m. CT.
"As long as they let me pitch, I'm fine when I pitch," Darvish said. "It doesn't have any significance to me."
One clue may be that Geovany Soto will likely do much of the catching when Darvish is on the mound. That may mean that if A.J. Pierzynski is in the Opening Night lineup, Harrison will be on the mound.
Also of interest is how Washington chooses to arrange his rotation for the first week of the season. The Rangers open against the Astros on a Sunday, then are off on Monday. They play Tuesday and Wednesday, get another day off on Thursday and then face the Angels in the home opener on April 5.
That gives Washington flexibility. His Opening Night starter could pitch the home opener on four days' rest. For example, Harrison could pitch the season opener, while Darvish and Derek Holland pitch the next two games against the Astros. Then, Washington could have Harrison, Alexi Ogando and Darvish pitch the three-game series against the Angels at the Ballpark in Arlington.
That would leave Holland to pitch on Monday, April 8, against the Rays, before the Rangers finally need a fifth starter on April 9.
"We have a schedule. We just need to make sure [everything] falls into place," Washington said.


text: I have joined local online support group and I a worried about one girl she seems to have been told that the usa at the mayo clinic is doing research on stem cell research and she has it in her head that it could cure her of lupus and I do not know what to say to her she is getting everyone excited about this break through I do not want her giving herself false hope or any one else for that matter. so I am asking anyone here have they heard of this research. we all know here that so far there is no cure. what do say to her and all the others have any of you been approached for trials.i am worried she is going spend lots of money and time on this. and she is going to be very disappointed at the end. and even more depressed than what she already is. she is only young and not handling this disease very well. any suggestions or help how to handle this situation would be greatly appreciated my friends.


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|Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
|YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
|Jim Erickson, free solo (hence the name), 1972
|Page Views:
|Submitted By:
|Andrew Wellman on Jan 1, 2001 with updates from James Schroeder
|Comments on Blind Faith
|Add Comment
|Show which comments —
Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 9, 2016
By Patrick Vernon
From: Estes Park, CO
Jan 1, 2001
|This is probably a good route for the first .10a trad lead, it is well protected and not too hard for the grade, and an enjoyable route (better than it looks from the ground)
By Anonymous Coward
May 25, 2001
|Maybe it's handsize-dependent, but for me this really is a good breakthrough route into Eldo 10a. The gear is great, you can place all the high pro you want and back down to a ledge to rest, and, for me, I feel it's one of the easier 5.10a routes in the canyon (and I'm the guy who HATES when people say that about a route they have wired). But it also fits my own style - dumb and strong, no footwork, and like I said it fits my hands (average male). A tiny bit of beta helps - at the overhang, jamming high with the left hand allows use of a big hueco in the crack and also sets you up to reach the blind crimper over the bulge (at about 2 o'clock) which helps the mantle. Two steep jams, a mildly grunting mantle (all with good pro) and it's over. Sentimental favorite for me, my first Eldo 10a and a confidence boost when I've needed it.
By Anonymous Coward
May 25, 2001
|After climbing BF the other day, my partner & I watched a party top out on Cream - looked like great climbing, really neat position (summits a slender pinnacle atop the Bastille's West Face), and some rather spartan use of small wires or RPs. Not a bit of chalk on it - looked like a good adventure, though the leader was solid and conversing with us while casually runout.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 29, 2001
I disagree with the comments that this is a good first 5.10 lead, although of course everyone is different. The moves over the bulge seemed awkward and desperate--that was the crux, not the straightforward crack moves.
My advice-- try Chockstone (one tricky move, textbook nuts from a good stance), Break on Through (ditto), P1 Outer Space (if you like stemming--great pro but the sequence is kind of bizzare). Of course I'm revealing my biases toward climbing that has tricky, short sequences with good stances to figure them out--but most people I know prefer routes like that as breakthroughs. On the other hand I believe Ben M.'s first ten lead was Tagger which I don't want to lead even now and I don't know what category that fits in, so what the hell...
I'll shut up now :)
By Matt Robertson
May 30, 2001
Chockstone "textbook nuts from good stance?" Ouch! Better be tall or good at blind placements - I use a black Alien which I can't confirm until I'm into the move. There's a good nut placement but I can't reach it (I'm 5.10, or should I say 5'10"). At least the crux on Chockstone is short - I agree with that - and the pitch is really good. (Sorry to detour from Blind Faith, just following the collective train of discussion.)
I should mention too that I'm impressed by and jealous of these young gunners with the sack to go after Tagger and the Northcutt for early 5.10 (give or take!) leads...
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 27, 2001
|Break on Through is harder and less protected at the crux.
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 16, 2001
|I had the pleasure of catching Ben M., mentioned beforehand by Charles Vernon, taking a nice whipper attempting to flop over this top mantle. Left a healthy dallop of blood on it as well.
By Kreighton Bieger
Jul 20, 2001
Whew! It is refreshing to hear that maybe Blind Faith is as hard as I thought it was. My 2nd 10 trad lead in Eldo. I fell a few times trying to exit the crack, and it even felt hard on TR the second time. I tried Northcutt today as my 4th Eldo 10 lead...you can read my comments yourself, but hey, the ring pin holds!
For the record, if anyone wants to email along their idea of easy eldo 10s, I'd love to hear. Xanadu wasn't too bad, but I don't think Over the Hill is for the faint of heart...but it sure ain't pumpy!
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jul 29, 2001
|Geez, time to get the discussion forum section going on this site. Anyway, I did only P1 of BF last Nov. - my partner insisted that she was done upon reaching the ledge. Anyway, it is neither the best nor the worst choice for a first 10 lead. It does sew-up very well. Due to the overall steepness of the route, especially the top, any half-way competent leader should be safe taking a fall. Also, one can tell by looking at the route from the ground (or reading the detailed beta in the above comments), that it is essentially a cake walk until the upper section. The statement about the "5.12" sport climber does not surprise me and hopefully does not lead anyone to believe that the route is sand-bagged. Someone I know who boulders harder than me fell seconding this route. My overall evaluation of this route (P1) is it is 2 stars, plenty safe and 10-.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 5, 2001
|A lot of bickering over such a short route. My take on the situation is this, the first pitch of the route is very very nice and gives a surprising pump at the crux. Hopefully you can reach high enough to place that piece before committing to the crux. (especially if this is your first 10 lead). Pull down on the hueco and left hand jam, throw the right foot up high and DON'T look straight up for something positive, the good holds are to the left of the little roof two parallel crimps which can get your feet over the 10c variation and up to the anchor, which is quite a masterpiece in itself. The second pitch is decent but nothing to the first, a little more difficult than it may appear at first, watch for loose block for first 20' of P2. We were 'Blind' indeed, doing the last pitch in almost pitch black ! Damn dayight savings time.
By steve dieckhoff
Nov 6, 2001
I can't disagree with any of the previous remarks....I'll just say that I find it much easier to set up for the last move by.......... jamming with the right hand at the top of the crack, moving the right foot as high as possible and then reaching up and over with the left, jamming in the slot towards the back. This allows me to palm with my right with my weight already above the bulge.
I think any 5.10 with protection as good as this one has is a good one to choose for your first. You may not flash it but you can always come back another day.
One note: I've known people to get in trouble on the second pitch for one reason or the other. A GOOD ALTERNATIVE is to climb up and left from the belay and connect with the WEST CHIMNEY route. After 30' or so look for the little traverse to the right past a fixed pin. If daylight is fading this may be a better choice that the regular second pitch. A better fixed anchor for rappelling would be worth considering too.
By Francisco Manzo
Jan 23, 2002
|I agree with Steve's comment and most others except for the bitching ones.It is also a reality that everyone climbs with differant techniques and syles based on experience and strength, and possibly luck. Maybe when someone puts a comment in here ,or for any other route that the writer should keep their opinion of whether it is a good first lead of that grade to themself as we are all differant in our own styles.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 30, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I found the gear and holds on the beginning of the second pitch to be of poor quality. I was new to Eldo the first time I did it, and although I was on-sighting 5.11s, and a lot of R rated routes, but I had some concern for my safety on this route for gear quality.
A few years later I did it again. Peter Spindloe lead it in the snow and took a few nice falls off of the P1 crux. I lead P2 and don't recall being as intimidated by it that time, but that was after doing 100s of routes in Eldo. Since then, I've lead it all as a single 60M pitch 3 times and had no concerns. I guess that just means it is in the eye of the beholder.
And who is the Joker? After climbing the "5.10c" variation I'll pipe up. It's 5.9 if you are over 5'9". I can imagine a tough reach for short people, but the right-hand variation is pretty easy, and well protected. It would be a good first 5.10 for someone who is climbing 5.9 and is confident of their gear.
By Aaron Shupp
Jan 31, 2002
|All I can say is that I had a damn hard time with the crux on P1. I had to hang twice before I found a greasy crimper out to the right of the crack. The second time I climbed it, it wasn't much easier. For me, it is certainly one of the meanest 5.10a's I've done in the canyon. I've had far less difficulty with Chockstone, Grand Course, etc.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 17, 2002
|I definitely agree with the two Steves' comments above... The fact is that this climb is exceptionally well-protected for an Eldo climb and for that reason it is a great first .10 lead. Also, it is really not as hard as Charles makes it out to be...for a crack route that is. Of course, everyone should be aware of the fact that crack climbing requires different technique, greater stamina, and a vastly different repetoir of moves than sport climbing. This is probably why this climb might be difficult for the sport-master who finds climbs like Rosy and .12 bolt-ups easy but struggles on this fine crack-fest. For those adept at cracks, its a great first .10 lead, with "jam, jam and jam some more" being the best beta I can offer. Obviously, if you havent climbed .8 or .9 cracks yet, this ones probably not for you...but it certainly won't hurt to try it.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 24, 2002
|I climbed Blind Faith yesterday and it was my first 10a lead in Eldo. I have to say that I found the bulge below the belay to be surprisingly hard. Now I am not a very strong crack climber and I also took my first fall, on gear I placed,leading trad from the crux. I admit that I felt this was a good first 5.10 lead for me because it was so easy to protect and it actually boosted my confidence knowing that I could take a fall on a cam I placed. After going back up to the crux, I realized, as with so many aspects of climbing, that if you get your feet up as high as possible it makes the crux a lot easier and getting super good foot jams will relieve some arm pump. Anyway, enjoy this route. It is definitely a challenge and an experience worthy of your time. And that's what we're all here for right? the experience
By David Hous
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 15, 2002
|I read this discussion with great interest and went out to do the route yesterday. I hadn't done for it 15 years and remembered it with pain on the backs of my hands. Still painful, still 3 stars! My only comment is that I would reverse the ratings of the regular route and the variation. I think the handcrack is 10c and the roof on the right is 10a! (we did both while we were up there.) On the question of whether this is a good first trad lead, I would say that it is, but only if you've followed a bunch of handcracks first. It's tough to learn hand jamming technique on the sharp end on this one since it's fairly steep/stenuous.
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 3, 2002
|My 2 cents on the first pitch: fun climbing, 5.9+, nice hand crack, bomber gear, tricky topout, and BAD anchor. The anchor consists of an angle, a fixed tricam, and a knotted cord - all equalized to a single rap ring (part of the webbing can be used to back up the ring). The only nice thing at the belay spot is that you can back it all up or just put in your own anchor. It would probably be better to set a new anchor and continue on so you don't have to use the bad anchor. This whole mess should be replaced OR removed entirely (it is amazing how two bolts *the B word* would clean this up nicely). Also, if you love cracks you will cruise this one grinning the whole way. Crimpmasters will suffer. Casey Bernal
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 25, 2002
|THE FIRST PITCH ANCHORS ARE GONE. Well kind of; the anchor now consists of a knotted cord and a flexing pin equalized to a single piece of webbing with no rap ring. Now you have to do the second pitch (which is quite fun) and rapping after the first is more or less out of the question. This anchor should really be entirely removed or a better fixed anchor put in place.casey bernal
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Aug 26, 2002
|Very nice climb with short crux. Thier is a faring hand jam at the very top which will get you over the top with ease, not obvious.
By Hayden Yurkanis
Feb 18, 2003
|Those of us who have gotten our butts kicked at indian creek should not worry about the "crack climbing" which is often optional (except for one move). Once you get to the overhanging section there are nice holds and one huge jug to place a bomber cam. Reach up from the jugg, get a hand jam, and grovel your way up to the top via sketchy insecure moves (with a beautifully clean fall(s), trust me I know)....also don't get suckered into the offwidth before the crux, there is protected face climbing to the right of it.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 22, 2003
|As of 2/22/03, the first pitch "anchor" consists of a single angle piton and a knotted cord. Be careful on the second pitch about 20 feet off the belay - there are a couple of loose, wedged blocks that people have clearly been yarding on.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2003
|IMHO, if anyone is searching for a good first .10 Eldo lead, try Handcracker on the West Ridge. It is a great summit route, with two pitches of moderate .9 climbing before the 10a crux pitch to warm up on. It also protects as well as any of the other 10- climbs mentioned here. The moves are much more straight forward (hand jams) than B.F. ....it may even be a bit soft for the grade, an Eldo rarity.kc
By Anonymous Coward
May 11, 2003
Well, it's not just sport-wankers that may get worked on BF. If you've been climbing mainly in Eldo (where real crack climbing is rare), this could seem pretty tough as a first 5.10. First time I did it, it felt p.f. hard for a 10a (I **thought** I was a good crack climber). About a month later, after my first Indian Creek trip, I did it again, and it felt downright E-Z for it's grade. Someone with lots of mileage on Lumpy 5.9 cracks would probably cruise it as a first 10.
BTW, my first 5.10 was Break On Through, and I thought it protected very well -- maybe too well, as I got got overly pumped sewing it up like crazy (got the onsight though). Also, my 2nd 5.10 was the Tagger roof (also onsight). Why do people think it's dicey? There's a perfect 2.5 friend right at the lip. It's a stretch to place it, but you have a primo #1FR 1/2-way out the roof protecting that move.
By David Conlin
May 12, 2003
I climbed this yesterday. I have just recently been breaking into 5.10s, at Eldo and Lumpy primarily. This was my 3rd Eldo 5.10 and I had yet to take a lead fall at this grade. But this one did it!
I think it is hand-size dependent, a little. I have thin hands and it was getting a little wide for me at the top. Also, would have helped to have known about the crimper to the right, which I didn't use, even when I reascended and topped it off. Also, don't bother placing too much gear in the bulge crack, which saps energy and isn't very beneficial--the fall is super-clean and I didn't feel a thing. Well-protected, so that is a plus for early 5.10 leads, but steep, overhanging, and strenuous, so not that great if you are used to "typical" Eldo climbing, which isn't very crack-y. Maybe good practice for an Indian Creek trip.
Oh, easiest 5.10 at Eldo (for breaking the grade): Positively 4th St. This was my first and I had no problem. Steep, juggy, well-protected, short.
By tobias Nitschke
From: CO
Jun 1, 2003
|I hesitate to add anything since there's already a veritable book going on this climb, but I didn't see any mention of the variation to the second pitch. (Maybe it's a different climb?) Try traversing up left from the belay station at the end of the first pitch. After 15 feet it heads straight up a nice dihedral that will give you a little more crack time. It felt solid 5.9 to me, then lets up to 5.6ish stuff the last 30 feet to the top. Enjoy...
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 25, 2003
|I found the crux crack jams are a bit slippery, (although that was probably my sweaty fingers). I got worked pretty good busting thru, even with the security of a rope from above. I found it to be an awkward crack, and once in it, not easy getting off your arms, since your out of balance, leaning backwards. There is a stem for the left foot higher up, and a crimper out right halfway thru, but still quite pumpy. I want to work this again, to see what I'm missing. The P2 crux is not as strenuous, but just as awkward. A great, reasonably long route, where you're technique will be challenged in a few spots. Great exposure...look forward to getting on the sharp end of this route. Erickson's FA 1972 solo of this climb is remarkable...
By Hayden Yurkanis
Oct 16, 2003
|I gotta make another post on this route...I have since learned how to hand jam, and I must say that this is the easiest and most secure 10 that I've done. No crimping or anything except jamming should be going on here, and there are jams to get you over the end of the overhang as well. With adequate crack skills, every jam should be a jug!
By ac
Oct 17, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Yeah, that last rattler half-in half-out jam with loose little pebbles and sand scrunching around in it is sweet if you know proper crack climbing technique. Whatever!
By David Conlin
Oct 21, 2003
|I'd agree with the previous comment. Maybe some comments don't explicitly specify this, but it IS the mantle at the top that is the crux, not the crack below (although strenuous, which saps energy for the crux). It is during this mantle that I fell on my onsight attempt. The jam at the back of the ledge SUCKS.
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Nov 8, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casey, the knotted cordalette combined with the piton holds just fine. Rapped off it yesterday (though nervous) and it held. However, the stoppers that Jackie mentions haven't been there since mid-summer to my best recollection.
Not a bad route to practice/learn aiding on. I aided the roof on the right yesterday evening late and had a good time. Were I to do it again, I would place a nut in the crack above the roof (Tony's salvation hold, though the climb would still go free as a good .10b) and put a nice runner on it. That way, there isn't horrible rope-drag from the green alien that protects the inside of the roof, and your second will have two clipping points for the roof proper (aside from being the same piece). It was just too damn cold to get the free onsight... *I know... excuses, excuses...*~Wm
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Nov 10, 2003
William, we rapped off it too. I would NOT recommend making a regular practice of rapping off bad anchors. This is the worst fixed rap anchor I have seen in Eldo.
By phil broscovak
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|I really like this route! However the anchor atop P1 is BULLDOOKIE! It is worth considering doing this route in one nice long pitch to avoid lingering at a crappy anchor. It annoys and amazes me that on a route of this quality and popularity that the anchor has not been fixed. It is not a nostalgic honor to the style of the 1st ascent to leave this anchor as is, as the 1st ascent was 3rd class. It is negligent lunacy! If you want dangerous anchors and adventure go climb in the Black Canyon or Bugaboos. But this is the front range and a very public area. Let's all get real, survivable anchors are a GOOD thing. Dicey and Spicey are great but not on this route!
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 10, 2003
|Is it too much to expect you to put in some gear to make the anchor safe, climb to the top (interesting), and do the easy walk off?
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casey, I'm inclined to agree with you in that this is one of the worst anchors in the park. Has someone submitted a request for bolts/chains yet? This was my second time up the first pitch of Blind Faith (one variation each), and both times I have felt the anchor was safe. Something ANY party should do if rappelling off this anchor is to back it up with trad gear, but don't equalize it. This will give confidence to the first brave soul and assure the second climber that the anchor holds. Obviously if one equalizes the anchor, this is not possible, so place the back-up in 'leading-style' below the webbing that is the anchor.
Ivan, I also found that when I seconded the first pitch I was too tired to lead or even second pitch 2. This was before i was climbing nearly everyday and before I had the same endurance I have now, but it is a challenge to get on that effectively stiff 5.9 after the first. Hey, sometimes you just gotta go for the one-pitcher!Cheers!~Wm
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 10, 2003
If you're not ready for the route as is, you are responsible for getting down. Leave gear if necessary. Else wait until you are ready. This is an unnecessary convenience anchor in my opinion.
In any case, this discussion should be continued in eldo fixed hardware (Editorials (Ranting)).
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Nov 10, 2003
In keeping with the flow, I'm putting this here, though the last several posts should be moved to the Eldo Fixed Hardware thread.
I don't want to see a bolted anchor go in on top of P1 of Blind Faith. This would be strictly for convenience. The "anchor" that is there now is an ad hoc job and should probably be removed all together. It wasn't built for the masses. There are enough gear placements on that ledge to build your own anchor and leave your own gear if you need to retreat. Do those in favor of a bolted anchor here want to bolt the first pitch of all of the multipitch climbs in Eldo?
I say no bolts on Blind Faith and here's why: Eldo is a trad area. This is a two pitch climb. The quality of the second pitch is as good as the first. The difficulty of the second pitch is less than the first. The walk off is easy.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If you take this discussion to it's logical conclusion, then either a new anchor has to be placed, or the old one removed completely.I for one would prefer to completely remove the old one. Like people have said, it's bogus.Since you can build a good anchor on trad gear there in the first place it's unneccessary and just leads to people calling for bolts.
There are plenty of multi-pitch climbs in Eldo that don't have or require bolted anchors on top of P1. This is just one more of those. So I suppose I could totally fix this problem by removing the in-situ anchor... just as well as we could by adding bolts. Or maybe we could just leave it as it is and people can just place trad gear to suppliment it.
I don't see any precident for bolting more of the park so that we can turn more climbs into 1-pitch TR's. If a pin and a bad cord set the precident, we should start removing the pins and bad cords, not just bolting stuff.
I'm not anti-bolt. I'm just anti-bolt-everything.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Conner and Tony Bubb's comments are spot on. A bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Blind Faith would not be approved by the FHRC unless there was overwhelming public sentiment in favor.This is highly unlikely. More likely is the complete removal of fixed anchors from this spot.
Bottom line: don't start up Blind Faith unless you plan to do both pitches. If you want to rappel after one pitch, be prepared to leave some gear behind.
By phil broscovak
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Whoa... I didn't mean to stir up a hornet's nest. I never suggested bolting the stance. I for one would encourage removal of the existing crap anchor. THAT WAY CLIMBERS WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR OWN CHOICES, ACTIONS AND SAFETY. I for one firmly believe that if a piece or anchor is to be FIXED it should be SAFE. BAD fixed gear, particularly anchors invite the very real potential for serious injury. Make it safe or don't make it at all!
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Holy Crap... I'm gone for eight hours and people have saturated this page with caustic remarks. My posting was placed here to help others that ran into the same predicament as I create a confidence inspiring set-up for a rappel in case they HAD to. Ivan, perfect example of my point is that my girlfriend and I climbed it the other day and in the process of clipping up an etrier, a carabiner shifted and pinched the crap out of one of her fingers. We thought it MIGHT be broken, therefore she was in no position to climb pitch two. Are you saying I should have told her to suck it up and climb on (rhetorical)? I understand the suggestion of leaving gear, though read my comment about backing up the existing anchor again...I simply posed a question. The implication within my question was that the FHRC would deny any motions towards shiny new hangars atop pitch one. I didn't make a suggestion.This truly doesn't have to be a bolting-brawl. I just made a vain attempt at providing helpful hints to those who might find themselves in a less-than-ideal situation. Leave the damned anchor as it is. It defines the top of the first pitch, it CAN be backed up, and digging out that knotted cord would be more of a pain in the ass (and potentially scarring to the rock) than leaving it.Forgive me for attempting to use the comments forum as an educational tool for others to use *read "What information would someone who has never climbed this route find useful?"*
By Joe Collins
Nov 11, 2003
A bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch will never be approved, so it's not even worth debate.
What is worth debate is the current set-up and whether it should be removed.I think its pointless to remove the current anchor. People like to climb the first pitch of Blind Faith. If you remove the anchor, I'm certain that a new, similar set-up will reappear. This presents another question: is a bolted anchor more visually unobtrusive than a nest of ratty slings?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 11, 2003
|"... is a bolted anchor more visually unobtrusive than a nest of ratty slings?" As you well know, Joe, one of the early goals of the FHRC was precisely to remove the unsightly mass of slings that had decorated Eldo for so long. In wilderness areas we are not even "allowed" to leave those slings. While I have no feelings one way or the other for placing anything on Blind Faith, a well concealed Fixe anchor has the advantages of durability and reduction of the nest of ratty slings. The bottom line in this debate should be directed toward the consideration that making any change constitutes an improvement to the climb - in all regards and dimensions. If you rap off a tree that has a nest of ratty, and often rotten, slings, what will you do? You will add to the mass of slings, that's what you will do, and that is part of the problem of having so many people climbing these routes. An analogy: did the trails up the Redgarden and the West Ridge help in any way? We had all humped around the nasty climber's trails for years, and that worked well when the population using the trails was limited. But, with the hordes came more erosion, and the new trails stopped the erosion.
By Kenny Gruchalla
From: Denver, CO
Nov 17, 2003
I too would recommend the route for the first .10a trad lead, it was my first .10a trad onsight. I certainly found Blind Faith much easier than Break on Through, but then I feel very comfortable on hand jams.
The fixed "anchor" at P1 is definitely sketchy. I certainly would not rap from it. Finish the climb with the second pitch and walk off. P2 is alittle easier and less consistent than P1, but still worth doing.
By flynn
Apr 21, 2004
No need for any anchor at the top of the first pitch. Carefully traverse off climber's right on exposed, inobvious class 4 ledges.
5.10, huh? I must have been better than I thought I was 20 years ago!! Maybe it's just that my hands fit the crack...
By ac
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I think it should be pointed out that Erickson originally rated this route 9+. I think what Alan Nelson refers to as the "Valley Daze" is the trick for this one. Most climbers in Boulder are not so great at pure cracks as we don't have any. A few months at the Creek or in the Ditch will make this route feel easier.
An anchor on this route will not pass. I say pull the pin and stuck cordalette. If anyone needs to bail, they'll just leave some booty for us. It is also possible from the top of pitch one to climb up and left to the second pitch of West Chimney (5.7).
By D. Rivers
Apr 23, 2004
Hey ac- If we adhere to the old school ratings, Boulder climbers not only can't climb pure cracks but overhangs, slabs, pure face, corners or anyother type of climb. Here are some ratings from Ament's 1970 edition of "High Over Boulder": Gorilla's Delight 5.9 "Layback a flake to the 5.7 or 5.8 slab above," Country Club Crack 5.10, Cussin' Crack 5.5 or 5.6, Final Exam 5.10, Skunk Crack 5.8, Tagger 5.9, X-M 5.9, Black Walk 5.8, T2 5.9 "Start under the overhang and climb out and up to a bolt, "Rosy Crucifixion 5.8, Ruper 5.7, Grand Giraffe 5.8, Super Slab 5.9, Vertigo 5.10, Grandmother's Challenge 5.9, Grand Course 5.9, Break on Through 5.9, Rincon 5.9.
Advances in technology should easiliy make up for any broken or polished holds, missing fixed gear, etc. Thus the only conclusion to be drawn is the the modern Boulder climber is simply a pathetic wuss.
By Michael Amato
Apr 27, 2004
|Followed P1 yesterday... at the crux, feet up as high as possible, palm-forward fist jam with right hand, lay-back left edge of crack with left hand and, with commesurate body position, step up with right foot to surmount bulge. Strenuous, but went well. This will be my strategy when I go back to lead this pitch, along with tape, after looking at my hand today. Should have rested a bit longer before grabbing the lead for P2 as it continues to be quite pumpy. Awesome climb.
By ac
Jul 10, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
...or you can lead it in one pitch with a 60-meter rope with no simulclimbing.
Great route!
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 31, 2004
Don't forget to bring your hex's for the first part of the route. (# 7,8,9) You can then save your cams for the crux. You can place a #3 Camalot about 2 feet below the top out. This is a fun 5.10a route up to the topout, which I won't try to rate. I finally had to traverse to the right to get over the bulge.
The anchor now consists of a piton, 2 knots, and a bomber nut, which you should backup. There is no reason to rap, the 2nd pitch is fun and only has 1 well protected hard move.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 7, 2004
Blind Faith was a difficult lead for me, one that I would not consider a novice 5.10 leader to attempt. The crux moves are harder than Tagger, Over the Hill, and March of Dimes in my opinion. I climbed the crack on the left (with a nice big fall!). The crack on the right looked easier, though.
Place a #3 Camalot in the crack near the top of the bulge, work your way up the crack, crimp like crazy on the holds above the bulge, and try to find foot placements under the buldge (I didn't find any which made this very difficult for me).
Good fun!
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004
|Hmmm.... what would the perfect entry level 10 be. Xanadu would be my first suggestion. Nothing devious, pro above your head and soooooo good!!!!
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|I did this route yesterday 8/31/05. The anchor atop pitch one is nowhere near as bad as I expected from the comments. Maybe it was recently replaced. Now it consists of a pin (solid) and a nut (solid) equalized with a sling. I think the discussion of an anchor is moot since it is a giant ledge for you to belay from. Protection abounds or just plop down on the ground and wedge your body between rocks with some gear behind you. Now for the actual climb, I went left and found it a little more strenous than the rest of the low 10s I had done in the canyon. I used the crimps out right while I had a bomber left hand jam. Protection is awesome so if you are thinking of doing 10a. This is not a bad one as you do not need to worry about protection just the climbing.
By TBlom
Oct 21, 2005
|I followed this in 98 and fell. led it in 2003 and fired the whole thing. Just make sure to rest well before the crux and don't hang out in the middle of it for too long. I think the start to the upper pitch is just as hard if not more as you need to place pro from an overhanging stance. Wonder when I'll get the nerve to do it again...
By Brandon Bogardus
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 21, 2006
|I onsighted the first pitch today (I have to brag 'cause I'm stoked) and it is awesome - good pro and your fall will be clean at the crux. However, the final move to the belay is f@&*ing desperate. I seriously almost puked. The only other place that this might be a 5.10a is at Vedawoo. So, sweet climb, but a definite sandbag. Jim Erickson is a bad ass. Oh, and the first 20 feet of the second pitch has some scary loose blocks. Cheers.
By Wanderinfree Chrislip
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Climbed this two days ago. Just to update, the only remaining fixed gear for the P1 anchor is the old piton. Everything else is gone--no cord, no nut.
By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Denver, CO
Aug 7, 2006
|We took the left-side (10a) variation on pitch 1, and I thought it was maybe 5.9+. If you have good crack technique, there is actually a good hand jam (for your left hand) right over the edge where you have to mantel and a handhold off to your right. I happened to think the second pitch move over the roof right off the belay was more 10a than the first pitch crux - I'm only 5'5" and I had to really lay it back and reach to get a semi-good hand jam in the crack before I could step over right, spicy and exposed!! And I agree that like a lot of Eldo climbs, some of the rock is a bit questionable - you're pretty sure it's solid, but ............
By Edward Jenner
Aug 9, 2006
Holly **** Stephanie! Maybe I was a bit tired from doing (leading) both Hair City and West Buttress, but having done quite a number of low 10s in Eldo, P1 crux completely shut me down, and I had to aid it (and yes, I can climb crack, no I'm not a 5.12, or even 11+ sport climber). P2 is straightforward 9, even pumped. I think there is a 'bad' way or trying to do the P2 crux, though my partner inexplicably fell multiple times seconding.
Discussions on route difficulty never cease to amaze me. When I did West Buttress a couple of years ago, the 9+ crux seemed hard - I had to deadpoint for it - and definitely felt sandbag 9+. This time it felt quite straightforward (footwork being key), as did the 10a straight up (although did feel 10a). People talking about Xanadu being 'hard' for 10a, Uhhh? It's just stemming with good gear. Technique and how you feel on the day seem to make a big difference in Eldo.
Then, others are like "Blind Faith is a good first 10", and I fell multiple times - something I haven't done in Eldo before. The pro is decent, but strenuous to place, and I was looking at a 10+ footer trying to top out without placing the last cam up there (I got pumped placing that last piece).
A really good, fun climb though, and I wouldn't hesitate to get back on it, even if I did not expect to make the crux. The bulges before hand and P2 are just a delight.
Then again, who knows, maybe I'll find it "easy" 10a next time!
By Dan Dalton
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2007
|A pretty solid and classic 10a. Definitely would be good to follow to figure out the mantle/bulge sequence at the top before leading. Quite awkard mantle on some loose stuff with not-so-bomber jams. A really fun route though, I high recommend it. Watch out for some loose flakes near the second bulge, would be a bad place to put in protection to protect the crux.
By Jeff Buhl
May 14, 2007
It was too difficult to sort through the comments above, so I thought I would quickly recommend the 10c variation over the 10a variation.
The climbing on the 10a side is a bit of a grovel (though well protected).
The climbing on the 10c side has much more aesthetic movement and gear that is just as good. Yellow and green Alien and or nuts can sew this up. Give it a shot!
By climberz
Jun 4, 2007
I am relatively new to Eldo (30 routes or so). I think the anchor at the top of pitch one is uninspiring. The anchor spot consists of a large block wedged into the crack. It is possible, though unlikely, that it could move and spit out your gear. I did not have one piece I trusted 100%, much less three, so I put in 7 pieces in five different cracks around all the loose junk. Yes, it was overkill, but an anchor is supposed to be overkill. Especially in this case where the first 25 feet of the next pitch has no great gear. I guess you could sling one of the massive blocks lodged in the crack, but I didn't want to touch it, much less be attached to it. Before you get the first good piece (a crack formed by two large walls rather than a crack on either side of a loose looking block) I pulled hard on a torso-sized block that had no visual means of attachment. I can't believe it hasn't fallen out yet. For this reason, I think there should be one bolt placed a few feet left of the pin. This would make the anchor bomber. At this point, it might be good. I will not belay at this spot again if I can avoid it. Doing it in one pitch is a good idea if your experienced enough to alleviate the ropedrag and can run it out enough to conserve gear for the whole pitch.
BTW. I don't think a fixed anchor is necessary for the first pitch, but one good piece would be nice for the possibility of a forty foot factor-two fall from pitch two.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 4, 2007
|A fixed anchor is not going to happen given that you could climb up a few more feet and get multiple good pieces above the alleged loose block. The climb can also easily be done in one long pitch, but then you might be asking for a bolt at the top where an anchor is hard to arrange if you've used all your big pieces.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
"For this reason, I think there should be one bolt placed a few feet left of the pin."
The bolt you suggest would violate the entire premise of the climb and the park as well as the rules of the legally chartered FHRC.
With time, you will get used to Eldo and what is good and what is not and will probably feel more secure about climbing in Eldo.
My comment on Jan 30, 2002 (read above) may have once spurned a sentiment somewhat like your own at this time, but as it says, I don't climb like I once did, but I feel safe there now.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|I think this would be a great first 5.10 lead in Eldo...especially if you know how to hand/foot jamb. The pro is excellent...except for going over the bulge maybe, but you can put a super solid #3 or #2 Camalot in right before the move. I've never crimped or mantled up over the crux, but just keep jamming until I'm over. I found the 5.9 move on P2 harder than the P1 hand crack actually. No bolts needed IMHO...you can build a great anchor at the top of P1, and it's a two pitch route.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Most people probably assume Jim Erickson simply walked up to this climb and free soloed it. In fact, Jim is a shrewd and calculating fellow and climbed up and down the start numerous times over many days before he committed to the crux section. In the 70s in Eldo, most climbers were experts at climbing down as well as up difficult sections. These days it is all too tempting to yell "TAKE!"
This route was climbed last weekend by Jim Logan and Wayne Goss, together with one of their sons! I was hanging out at the base chatting with them, which is where I got the info on the first ascent.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2007
|If you have small hands you may find the P1 crux rattly and spooky.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 28, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|This was my first onsight 10 in Eldo, not bad IMO I got a Brown Point on Northcutt Start yesterday as I rested on the pin at the crux, but that was the first ten ever in Eldo, so not bad. As a solid crack climber I found this one to be pretty easy. I thought some of the jambs were shaky at first with my skinny hands, but upon readjusting, the jams held quite well. Ran it out a bit to the crux (not necessary, but I didn't have many long runners), then threw a #2 in at the start of the crux, and thought I would run it out to the lip jams were so good I hung in there and put in another #2 and a #1 then turned the lip on a good jam high with the left and I think the right hand crimp with feet high in the crack. Then stepped onto a nice little edge on the arete and it was done. The anchor really sucked, and I was a little scared for my life. Went left from the belay to a 5.6 exit with nice cracks, because I didn't want my "green" partner to try to lead his first 5.9 trad route on chossy rock above a manky anchor. One pitch next time with a lot more long runners, and I will take the right variation and the original 2nd pitch.
By Paul Brooks
From: Boulder
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|We did the route yesterday and it ruled. The 10c variation went without hitches. Crux Beta: step high enough to gain a jug with the left hand and jam your fingers in the 10c crack. Reach higher with the left or just cross through to a nice two-hand shelf. There's a good nut placement above the 10c jam. My partner noticed a loose hand-hold near the start of pitch 2 in the chossy looking rock.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 4, 2009
|You rule.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 16, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|A great, well protected route. You can throw as much gear as you want on the first pitch, but I recommend saving some #1-#3 Camalots for the top bit. The p1 crux felt right on at 10a - definitely pumpy, but the jams are good. The first 40 feet of P2 has some creepy rock, but the gear was good.
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|I have been to The Creek a lot recently and this climb was a fantastic Creek-style climb. One of the best I have climbed in Eldo. Easier than Handcracker. I just wish it was a little longer, but don't we all?
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 22, 2009
|Did the right crack variation today. It is certainly not 10c. I would call it 5.9. It is certainly easier than the left crack. The moves are, however, worthwhile and fun.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Just noticed the route description says this route is 250' long?.... I climbed this yesterday for the first time and had no problem linking both pitches with the use of long slings, and the occasional runout. More like 155 feet of awesomeness.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Being that I've lead this climb as a single pitch on most occasions, with a 60m or a 70m rope, (the 70m leaves you more room at the end for anchors), I can assure you that this climb in just under 200' in total.
It would be nice to change the main description that says 250' to accurately reflect this possibility/opportunity. (EDIT: Done)
By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2010
|Found it quite thuggish for 10a.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Nov 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|I would give this route 4 stars if it had a better finish. A more enjoyable finish in my opinion is to head left after P1 and climb the 8ish corner. It finishes in the same 5.6 chimney as the standard finish does, but with better quality rock and a few more fun moves. Definitely a great climb though. Very worthy of 3 stars - so close to 4....
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Superb climbing. A great intro to Eldo 5.10!
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Lead it today and took a good 20'er from the top of the hand crack. Got it clean 2nd try. This was my 2nd 10a in Eldo. Felt really good and protection was excellent. Nothing bigger than a #2 C4 needed.
By farkas.time
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Got a #1 BD cam stuck low down today [blush]. Pretty wedged. I'll go back for it with some tools soon, but if you manage to get it out in the meantime, please call 303 621 4250. Thanks!
By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Jul 22, 2014
|Did the route this morning in one pitch with a 70m. Was great. Two fixed nuts on the route, so all in all pretty clean.
By samualrc
Apr 24, 2015
I left a couple of DMM offset nuts on an oval biner at the bottom of this today. I came back, and the people there told me whoever found them was trying to give them back. If you found them, pm me and a sixpack is in your future.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I have loved this climb since I first climbed it in the '80s with hexes and stoppers! P1 is the purest crack climb I can think of at the grade in Eldo, and P2 is a really nice compliment with very different climbing. Just wish it was more continuous. When on the west side of the Bastille, Blind Faith is almost mandatory every time.
By Frazer
Jun 26, 2015
|Belayed like a POS on P2, gear stuck (0.75), beer in it for return. :(
By Michael moritz
Mar 13, 2016
Left a yellow BD nut, dyneema sling, and green cordlette at the top of the first pitch when we had to bail due to nightfall yesterday. If you get them back before I do today, please return in exchange for beer.
By Alex Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 8, 2016
|I climbed the .10 variation last night. I think it has better and more interesting climbing. It's more technical, but if you stick the correct sequence, it's less work than the 10a crux. Those well versed in the "Eldo dance" will probably execute it easily. I still, however, think, that it is probably a 5.10 pitch and not 5.9, but I don't have much grade sensitivity in this area.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2016
|There's a bird's nest in the crack about 10' up from the belay atop P1. Lots of bird shit at the belay and an obviously unhappy bird. It may be best to bump out left to West Crack for the time being.
By Russ Keane
Dec 9, 2016
|Bad ass climb! One of my faves of all time. Even the second pitch is cool.


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Black operation
A black operation (or black ops) is a covert operation by a government, a government agency, or a military organization. This can include activities by private companies or groups. Key features of a black operation are that it is secret and it is not attributable to the organization carrying it out.[1] The main difference between a black operation and one that is merely secret is that a black operation involves a significant degree of deception, to conceal who is behind it or to make it appear that some other entity is responsible ("false flag" operations).[2][3]
A single such activity may be called a black bag operation;[1] that term is primarily used for covert or clandestine surreptitious entries into structures to obtain information for human intelligence operations.[4] Such operations are known to have been carried out by the FBI,[5] the Central Intelligence Agency,[6] Mossad, MI6, COMANF, DGFI, RAW, MSS, KGB and the intelligence services of other nations.[4]
"Black" may be used as a generic term for any government activity that is hidden or secret. For example, some activities by military and intel agencies are funded by a classified "black budget", of which the details, and sometimes even the total, are hidden from the public and from most congressional oversight.[7][8]
Reported examples[edit]
- In 2007 the Central Intelligence Agency declassified secret records detailing illegal domestic surveillance, assassination plots, kidnapping, and infiltration and penetration of other "black" operations undertaken by the CIA from the 1950s to the early 1970s. CIA Director General Michael Hayden explained why he released the documents, saying that they provided a "glimpse of a very different time and a very different agency".[9]
- In May 2007 ABC News, and later the Daily Telegraph, reported that United States president George W. Bush had authorized the CIA to undertake "black operations" in Iran in order to promote regime change as well as to sabotage Iran's nuclear program.[10][11] ABC News was subsequently criticized for reporting the secret operation, with 2008 presidential candidate Mitt Romney saying he was "shocked to see the ABC News report regarding covert action in Iran," but ABC said the CIA and the Bush Administration knew of their plans to publish the information and raised no objections.[12]
See also[edit]
- ^ a b Smith, Jr., W. Thomas (2003). Encyclopedia of the Central Intelligence Agency. New York, NY: Facts on File, Inc. p. 31. ISBN 0-8160-4666-2.
- ^ Popular Electronics, Volume 6, Issue 2–6. Ziff-Davis Publishing Co., Inc. 1974, p. 267. "There are three classifications into which the intelligence community officially divides clandestine broadcast stations. A black operation is one in which there is a major element of deception."
- ^ Djang, Chu, From Loss to Renewal: A Tale of Life Experience at Ninety, Authors Choice Press, Lincoln, Nebraska, p. 54. "(A black operation was) an operation in which the sources of propaganda were disguised or mispresented in one way or another so as not to be attributed to the people who really engineered it."
- ^ a b "Tallinn government surveillance cameras reveal black bag operation". Intelnews. December 16, 2008. Retrieved 3 December 2012.
- ^ Rood, Justin (June 15, 2007). "FBI to Boost 'Black Bag' Search Ops". ABC News. Retrieved 3 December 2012.
- ^ "The CIA Code Thief Who Came in from the Cold". matthewald.com. Retrieved 3 December 2012.
- ^ "Dirty Secrets Of The "Black Budget"". Business Week. February 27, 2006. Archived from the original on December 31, 2011. Retrieved June 12, 2012.
- ^ Shachtman, Noah (February 1, 2010). "Pentagon's Black Budget Tops $56 Billion". Wired. Retrieved June 12, 2012.
- ^ Tisdall, Simon (June 22, 2007). "CIA to release cold war 'black files'". The Guardian. Retrieved June 7, 2012.
- ^ Ross, Brian; Esposito, Richard (May 22, 2007). "Bush Authorizes New Covert Action Against Iran". ABC News. Retrieved June 7, 2012.
- ^ Shipman, Tim (May 27, 2007). "Bush sanctions 'black ops' against Iran". The Telegraph. Retrieved June 7, 2012.
- ^ Montopoli, Brian (May 23, 2007). "ABC News Comes Under Fire For Iran Report". CBS News. Archived from the original on February 18, 2011. Retrieved January 26, 2014.
External links[edit]
|Look up black operation in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.


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On one occasion a cobbler noticed a fault in the painting of a shoe, and remarking upon it to a person standing by, passed on. As soon as the man was out of sight Apelles came from his hiding-place, examined the painting, found that the cobbler's criticism was just, and at once corrected the error. ... The cobbler came by again and soon discovered that the fault he had pointed out had been remedied; and, emboldened by the success of his criticism, began to express his opinion pretty freely about the painting of the leg! This was too much for the patience of the artist, who rushed from his hiding place and told the cobbler to stick to his shoes. [William Edward Winks, "Lives of Illustrious Shoemakers," London, 1883]
[The quote is variously reported: Pliny ("Natural History" XXXV.x.36) has ne supra crepidam judicaret, while Valerius Maximus (VIII.xiii.3) gives supra plantam ascendere vetuit.]


text:
Sandoval's ailing elbow getting better
MESA, Ariz. -- Giants manager Bruce Bochy said Monday that Pablo Sandoval could resume playing light catch in "a couple of days" after the third baseman showed improvement with his injured right elbow.
Sandoval hasn't played since March 16, but the Giants are hopeful that he would need only a couple of games to regain his hitting stroke.
"Pablo's determined to make it by Opening Day, so it's a wait-and-see," Bochy said.
Sandoval has been bothered by an irritated nerve in his elbow that is complicated by a bone spur. On Sunday, he underwent X-rays and a CAT scan at a Scottsdale-area hospital.
Sandoval, the Most Valuable Player of last year's World Series, was batting .435 (10-for-23) before being sidelined.
Chris Haft is a reporter for MLB.com. This story was not subject to the approval of Major League Baseball or its clubs.


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TRICARE's pharmacy benefit covers more than 9 million active duty members of the military, retirees and their families.
That's not only a pretty significant market, but the fact that a government agency is enabling its constituents to choose the personal interaction with their pharmacist in the convenience of a retail setting, over a more mechanical mail-order transaction, speaks volumes to the value inherent in those pharmacist-patient interactions.
That's really the crux of the issue — care versus cost.
At one point, it looked as though military beneficiaries would be forced into mandatory mail order as a cost-cutting/cost-saving measure. This 180-degree about-face not only underscores the value of that pharmacist-patient interaction, it also substantiates that today's consumers can have the best of both worlds, with the ability to choose comprehensive care at lower cost. After all, the Department of Defense is estimated to realize more than $12.6 billion through 2015 in a plan that includes ready access to community pharmacy.


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Poth's block party lands spot in 2A final
After 'letdown,' Poth recovers to beat Jewett Leon.
Updated 9:09 pm, Thursday, November 17, 2011
SAN MARCOS — At face value, it wasn't necessarily the aesthetically pleasing performance they've come to expect.
There were more serving and passing errors than they cared to have. There was a third-game "letdown" that caused them to have to work longer and harder than they've been accustomed to during this year's playoffs.
In the end, though, the Poth Pirettes weren't overly concerned with how they won their Class 2A state semifinal match against Jewett Leon on Thursday. Just that they won it.
Behind a dominating blocking effort, and the all-around play of junior Micah Weaver, Poth topped the Lady Cougars 25-21, 25-13, 17-25, 25-18 before 1,183 fans at Strahan Coliseum.
The victory put the Pirettes (43-9) into the state final for the eighth time in the past nine seasons. They will play Nocona, which stunned defending state champion White Oak, for the state championship at 11:30 a.m. Saturday.
White Oak defeated Poth in last year's final, but its loss Thursday denied a highly anticipated rematch.
Sports Channel
"I don't care who we play," Poth senior middle hitter Jordan Kotara said. "I just want to play for state."
Kotara and the Pirettes got their wish, overcoming eight service and six reception errors by recording 16 blocks.
Kotara had 71/2 blocks, Kelsee Felux had three and Tara Broyles 21/2 as Poth held Jewett Leon (44-3) to an .049 hitting percentage.
"You're not going to always do some things right, but you work around it by doing the other things right," Kotara said. "We knew going in that their defense was going to be good. We just had to execute on the things we knew how to do correctly in order for it to work out."
Poth did as much, shaking off its own miscues in Game 3 to improve to 6-0 against Jewett Leon at the state tournament.
After winning the first two games, the Pirettes led 16-15 in the third game and appeared headed for a sweep. But the Lady Cougars closed with a 9-1 run, capitalizing on five Poth errors, to prevail and extend the match.
"We just had to refocus," Poth coach Patti Zenner said. "We were making a lot of our own errors — unforced errors — that we had to take care of."
In the decisive fourth game, Weaver — who had 12 kills, a .407 hitting percentage and 23 digs — had four kills to spark the Pirettes. Avery Acker and Kotara each had three kills, Felux had two and two blocks, and Corin Nelson two kills and an ace.


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Lawn Basics
How to Control & Prevent Common Lawn Weeds
Ugh, weeds! How to control them.
They're the scourge of homeowners everywhere: those dandelions, crabgrass, and clumps of clover that appear out of nowhere. It's not fair, after all the work you put into your lawn. Fortunately, there are several simple steps you can take to take care of weeds in your yard.
Prevention and Maintenance
How to help a lawn that's full of weeds
When it almost seems as though you have more broadleaf weeds than grass in your yard, you can still get the lawn you want. For best results, try a weed & feed product that feeds and controls weeds at the same time, like Scotts® Turf Builder® Weed & Feed.
How to help a lawn with a few weeds
When you see a broadleaf weed here and there, it's tempting just to pull them out by hand. Trouble is, the roots often break, and the parts that remain sprout new weeds. You're better off using a product like Scotts® Touch Up® Weed Control for Your Lawn or check out the line of weed control products from Ortho. A weed control product labeled safe for lawns will target weeds and leave the lawn unharmed when used as directed.
Spring Weed Prevention
Annual grassy weeds, like crabgrass, can be prevented in the spring so they don't become a problem in the summer. Applying a pre-emergent weed killer, like Scotts® Turf Builder® Halts® Crabgrass Preventer with Lawn Food or Scotts® Halts® Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer in the spring, stops the weed seeds before they germinate.
Proper Lawn Care Is The Best Medicine
When your lawn is stressed, it's ripe for takeover by weeds. A few simple steps can protect it.
- Deep Watering: Watering deeply and infrequently helps your lawn compete by encouraging deeper root growth.
- Set your lawn mower higher: Mowing at the proper height, usually one of the 2 highest setting on your mower, helps the grass grow thick to shade weed seeds, so it's harder for them to grow.
- Proper Feeding: Feeding at regularly, like every 6-8 weeks during the growing season with Scotts® Turf Builder® Lawn Food, helps your lawn thicken up and fill in bare spots, making them less welcoming to weeds.
Weeds Defined
A weed is any plant growing where it is not wanted. Lawn weeds belong to one of three categories: broadleaf, grassy, or grass-like. A typical broadleaf weed is a dandelion. Crabgrass is in the grassy weed category, while nutsedge would be classified as a grass-like weed.


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Al-Rimal Brings Sadoun Jaber Back to Stardom
After a small period of quiet, Sadoun Jaber's latest accomplishment, a new album, "Al-Rimal Mo Huzn," has placed the singer back into the limelight.
The reason? It is the first single on his new album called, "Mo Huzn," written by Nuwab, a poet who enjoys great admiration from fans.
The tape has achieved great success, especially due to the great advertising campaign, which was set up by its promoters. One example of the great promotion is the albums back cover, which is adorned with the picture of Nuwab alongside the lyrics to "Mo Huzn."
The album consists of seven songs, five of which were composed by Iraqi composer Kathem Fandy. Fandy is responsible for "Mo Huzn," "Al-Rimal," "Altawadu Hilou," "Kul Laila" and "Tamur Wala Tas'al."
The two remaining songs, "Marat" and "Mu Kulha Illak," were composed by Jawad Amoury and Mohammed Nushy, respectively.
Various other Iraqi artists have been allowed to use Nuwab's poetry including Yas Khader, who sang the poem "Al Rayl Wa Hamd"—albawaba.com.
© 2000 Al Bawaba (www.albawaba.com)


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Even though nothing sounds like vinyl at all I am amazed people still bring records to clubs. They are so heavy and I cherish my own collection so much I don't want them full of vodka. I'm also amazed at all the people who "controller shame" saying you need to use vinyl to be a real DJ. I have Traktor and an S4 and I also have it on my iPad. While Im not so sure I will use the new SuperSlicer in app purchase ($1.99) I do thing it's pretty cool and futuristic as hell.
"Remix your tracks like never before with the new SuperSlicer for Traktor DJ. Slice-up your tracks and rearrange your loops using Scratch, Brake, Reverse, Slice or even Pitch-shift effects." – Native Instruments
For more info: itunes.apple.com/us/app/traktor-dj


text:
A Welcome Slowdown
A poor GDP report, a mediocre ADP jobs report and anticipation of what the Fed might say later today have slowed the bulls down today. Research In Motion (RIMM) is seeing a sell-the-news reaction and is a source of hilarity on Twitter. Amazon (AMZN) is fading after a big gap-up open. Breadth is running 1700 gainers to 3300 decliners, which is the worst in a while. Gold and silver are leading, primarily due to the weak GDP reading. Small-caps are the primary laggard.
As I discussed in my opening post, this market has become challenging even for the bulls because there has been so little rest. We haven't had much of an opportunity to buy pullbacks or bases, so I can't say that this action is not welcomed to some degree....87 more words left in this article. To read them, just click below and try Real Money FREE for 14 days.
There's no substitute for a trading floor to get great ideas, so Jim Cramer created a better one at Real Money and blogs there exclusively. We then added legendary hedge fund manager, Doug Kass, with his exclusive Daily Diary and best investing ideas. Staffed with more than 4 dozen investing pros, money managers, journalists and analysts, Real Money Pro gives you a flood of opinions, analysis and actionable trading advice found nowhere else, and allows you to interact directly with each expert.
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text:
Oklahoma born Michael Hedges wasn't the first to take acoustic guitar techniques to new heights of technical expression. As with every new master, he had stood on the shoulders of many giants to see the future that he would help to shape.
Jazz player extraordinaire Lenny Breau, 12-string master Leo Kottke and experimental wiz John Martyn are just the tip of an iceberg of players who had moved acoustic guitar techniques beyond even that of the great 60s triumvirate of Bert Jansch, John Renbourn and Davy Graham. But in Hedges, every previous approach would be crystallised, along with dozens of new techniques that he would devise, to create a self-sufficient one-man-band – without the bass drum and knee cymbals!
Signed to 'new age' record label Windham Hill, which he had launched with guitar-playing friend Will Ackerman, Hedges called his music 'new edge', 'acoustic thrash' or 'heavy mental'. In reality it was a mesmerising cocktail of strange tunings, on-body percussion, two- handed picking techniques and a lateral view of an instrument that's usually just strummed or tastefully picked. As Jimi Hendrix had done with a Fender Stratocaster, so Hedges' mind-boggling playing on his beaten-up Martin ushered in a new age of virtuoso acoustic guitarists.
His first Windham Hill album, 1981's Breakfast In The Field, was a stunning enough debut but its 11 tracks were classic fingerpicking fare. And even though tunes such as Silent Anticipations and Peg Leg Speed King demonstrated his fretboard antics well enough, the world had to wait three years to hear Hedges' boundary-busting masterpiece.
Leo Kotke pushed the 12-string acoustic into exciting new directions (Credit: Tim Mosenfelder/Corbis)
As well as creating compositions on which his percussion techniques, tapping, string pulling and harmonics-from-nowhere approach were often teamed with echo and other electronic effects, on Aerial Boundaries Hedges also showed how he loved to cover other artists' work. On this album he included Neil Young's After The Gold Rush, but other recordings saw unique readings of such classic as Dylan's All Along The Watchtower and an astonishing version of The Beatles' Tomorrow Never Knows.
Sadly, Hedges would not live to reap the rewards that he so deserved. While driving home from San Francisco airport on 1st December 1997, the guitar world lost one of its greatest stars, when his car skidded off the road and down a 120-foot embankment. Hedges died instantly, but his body wasn't discovered for several days. On Aerial Boundaries, Michael Hedges paid homage to another acoustic innovator with the track titled Bensusan.
French guitarist Pierre Bensusan plays exclusively in DADGAD tuning, to create masterful and beautiful compositions. His Celtic meets Gallic songs offer the listener beauty as well as technical perfection.
Among the post-Hedges American acoustic guitarists, players such as Preston Reed encapsulate the Oklahoman's technical prowess, perhaps even taking it further, while adding more of the rock sensibility to the music. Ani Di Franco is another member of the hip acoustic guitar club, her blend of punk attitude and folk sensibility – mated to staunchly feminist views and a guitar style that's almost violent in its approach – making her music at once challenging and rewarding.
Windham Hill's Will Ackerman, himself a highly respected guitarist, also signed the hugely talented Alex de Grassi. De Grassi is a multi-instrumentalist intellectual whose seminal album, Turning: Turning Back, showcased his hypnotic rhythmic layers over which intricate, picked passages are played. Like Hedges, many people hearing de Grassi assume it's at least two guitarists playing at once.
Although fellow Americans Laurence Juber and Doyle Dykes stick more closely to traditional acoustic guitar techniques, their sheer technical mastery brackets them comfortably within this 'virtuoso' genre. These highly respected players mix blues licks and death-defying country-inspired runs with seemingly impossible arpeggios, leaving the beholder gasping in amazement.
Bert Jansch inspired many with his work throughout the '60s and beyond (Credit: Rune Hellestad/CORBIS)
The UK has spawned many remarkable solo acoustic guitarists - not least Gordon Giltrap, whose lightning speed and compositional flair have won him legions of fans. Adrian Legg's country-tinged fret-melting continues to amaze audiences around the world, while newer artists such as Clive Carrol and Stuart Ryan have their own twist on this high-octane, one-man-and- his-guitar form of music.
Ireland's most prized one-man acoustic show is Eric Roche. Roche is head of guitar at Guildford's Academy Of Contemporary Music, but is a busy player whose post-Hedges style, heartfelt compositions and charismatic presence blend with unique renderings of rock and pop classics, like The Beatles' I Saw Her Standing There, Higher Ground by Stevie Wonder and a grin-inducing Smells Like Teen Spirit, from Nirvana.
One man to whom the phrase 'the best acoustic guitarist in the world' is continually applied, is the amazing Tommy Emmanuel. Australian-born Emmanuel began playing as a youngster, touring his native outback and absorbing any kind of music he could. Aged only seven, he heard US fingerpicking legend Chet Atkins and never looked back. His first solo album, Up From Down Under, came in 1988 and by 1997 he'd recorded the milestone CD, The Day Finger Pickers Took Over The World, with his childhood idol Atkins.
Like Michael Hedges, Emmanuel treats the guitar as an orchestra, creating all manner of drum and percussion effects, as well as playing with a technique so advanced and refined that his fingers can literally play anything his brain conceives. Emmanuel plays with his whole body, moving, swaying and almost dancing to the sound of his own instrument. Whatever type of music you like, to witness a Tommy Emmanuel concert is one of the wonders of the acoustic guitar world.
Groundbreaking acoustic virtuosi of the 20th century
Child prodigy Lenny Breau records his first album, Boy Wonder. Lenny later switched over from country to jazz
Leo Kottke releases his debut album Twelve String Blues on the Oblivion label
French guitarist Pierre Bensusan switches to DADGAD tuning and releases Pres de Paris
Will Ackerman and Michael Hedges co-found Windham Hill Records, on which many fine acoustic guitarists
would gain recognition
Gordon Giltrap releases his breakthrough album, Perilous Journey, featuring the track Heartsong
Aerial Boundaries, the groundbreaking album by Michael Hedges, hits the shops
Tommy Emmanuel releases his first solo album, Up From Down Under
Adrian Legg releases his milestone album Guitars And Other Cathedrials
The Day Finger Pickers Took Over The World, a collaboration between Tommy Emmanuel and his boyhood
hero Chet Atkins, is released.
Irishman Eric Roche produces his first album, The Perc U Later
The Martin Guitar Company introduces the OMC-18VLJ signature guitar for ex-Wings guitarist turned solo performer, Laurence JuberRead more about


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NetWellness is a global, community service providing quality, unbiased health information from our partner university faculty. NetWellness is commercial-free and does not accept advertising.
Friday, September 22, 2017
Complementary Medicine
How much Omega 3?
I have recently read that Omega 3 supplements may help children with ADD. What would be a proper dosage for a child with ADD, taking Concerta 54 mg, age 10, weighing about 60 pounds? Also, what would be a proper dosage for an adult female taking Lipitor, and facing a family history of heart disease?
To answer your question, I need your monocyte percentage.
Glen F Aukerman, MD, DABFP
Professor of Family Medicine
College of Medicine
The Ohio State University


text: I'm going to be a freshman at IU and I was wondering if anyone knew a way I could watch Pacers games in my dorm there? It seems they dont have FSN Indiana as one of the cable options. I am fine with paying for league pass broadband, but will the Pacers be blacked out in Bloomington over League Pass like they are here in Indianapolis?


text: So long, Big East By Dave Hickman February 14, 2012 Story Share MORGANTOWN, W.Va. -- West Virginia University and the Big East have settled their differences. All it took, as expected, was a large amount of cash.The two sides finally announced Tuesday morning that they have agreed to part ways, ending four months of legal wrangling for what is believed to be a $20 million settlement.Neither side would talk about specifics of the agreement - even though West Virginia law says any settlement agreement involving a public agency must be released to the public.WVU is expected to initially be responsible for between $10 million and $11 million of the amount, with the Big 12 Conference footing the rest of the bill in the form of roughly half as a gift and the other half as a loan.The agreement allows West Virginia to join the Big 12 on July 1 and begin playing full conference schedules -- including football -- this fall. With the WVU-Big East agreement finalized, the Big 12 announced the 2012 football schedule within an hour Tuesday morning.Oddly, perhaps, but with future legal ramifications otherwise, the Big East's part of Tuesday morning's announcement said that West Virginia's membership in the Big East had been "terminated.''West Virginia Athletic Director Oliver Luck, however, was not about to argue about semantics. "We're just delighted to be a member of the Big 12,'' Luck said when asked if he foresaw the amount of angst that developed between his school and the Big East when the decision was made to leave in October. "We're delighted they expressed an interest in us. Today's a very positive day for all Mountaineers.''The settlement between WVU and the Big East allows the school to avoid the Big East's 27-month waiting period to exit the conference. The school announced in October that it was leaving the Big East for the Big 12 and intended to do so on July 1, 2012.But Big East rules -- which WVU officials were instrumental in crafting during recent years -- required the school to pay a $5 million exit fee and wait 27 months to leave, which would not allow West Virginia to join the Big 12 until the 2014-15 school year.The result was dueling lawsuits -- the first filed by WVU in Monongalia Circuit Court and the second filed by the Big East in Rhode Island, where its offices are located. As recently as last Thursday there was a status conference involving the Rhode Island suit while the sides continued to negotiate a settlement. The tentative agreement reached the next day is the one that was finalized Tuesday. According to WVU sources, the school actually will not have to write much of a check at all to the Big East, although that is just bookkeeping and the money will still come out of the school's athletic budget.Of the $10 million to $11 million the school will pay the league, $2.5 million was paid in October as half of the required $5 million exit fee. Much of the remainder will be in the form of revenue sharing money owed WVU for the current school year by the league that now will not be paid.As for the Big 12's portion of the payment, about half of that is expected to be returned to the league by WVU in the form of reduced revenue sharing.West Virginia is already on a gradual revenue sharing track with the Big 12 as part of its membership agreement. The school will receive a 50 percent share in the first year, rising to 67 percent in the second year, 85 percent in the third year and 100 percent in the fourth year. Any amount that must be repaid to the Big 12 likely won't be deducted until that fourth year. Still, even the 50 percent share in the first year is expected to be in the same ballpark as the approximate $7 million WVU now receives from the Big East. The Big 12 annually gives about $18-19 million in revenue shares to its members."That's well over $10 million [above] what the Big East is paying out,'' Luck said. "Where those [numbers] will move in the next three or four years I'm not sure, but I think the point here for us is that it's a very healthy television payout. It's important that we maintain our self-sufficient status and I think with this move to the Big 12 we'll be in an excellent position to do so.''Luck said that while the first few years of membership might be a tight financial fit for the school's athletic department, given the reduced Big 12 payouts and the money owed to the Big East, it will not be a significant strain. In fact, the school might still wind up making money at the front end of the Big 12 membership."I can't tell you when [membership will become more profitable] because we've not looked at those numbers very closely,'' Luck said. "But we will be in very strong financial shape through the first couple of years, as well as when we get into years three and four and [then] see the full payout.''Luck also made it a point several times to say that no state or taxpayer funds, tuition or academic support monies will be used to pay the settlement. The money needed to cover any shortfalls due to the Big East withholding its revenue sharing for this year will, he said, come from private donations through the Mountaineer Athletic Club and through normal athletic department revenues.As for the Big East, its statement on the matter was that the league's board of directors "has voted to terminate West Virginia University's membership in the conference, effective June 30, 2012. This vote is conditioned on WVU fulfilling its obligations under a settlement agreement with the conference that resolves the litigation between the parties.'' Additionally, as part of the settlement, the suit WVU filed in Monongalia County will be dismissed and a judgment is to be entered that the Big East's bylaws are valid and enforceable. Without that judgment the league would presumably open itself to other schools simply buying their way out of the conference as did West Virginia.Reach Dave Hickman at 304-348-1734 or firstname.lastname@example.com or follow him at Twitter.com/dphickman1. Story Share Story Share Trending Now 1 Deer in 8 WV counties found dead from EHD 2 New company planning $73M synthetic fuel plant in Greenbrier County 3 St. Albans rallies to beat Riverside, 21-17 4 WVU law professor announces run for Congress 5 Judge denies motion to recuse himself in WV heroin trafficking case WVU's Big 12 football schedule involves heavy lifting Previous Story Feb. 15 prep basketball scores, boxes Next Story