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NASCAR Sprint Cup Series: AdvoCare 500, Phoenix International Speedway, Avondale, Ariz. Green flag: 3:20 p.m. ET
— Leaders find speed they need in final practice | Keselowski on racing against Johnson
Drivers who don't make the Chase for the Sprint Cup always have one big complaint this time of year.
They are overshadowed week to week by the 12 drivers in the Chase.
Sorry. You won't be getting much pub this weekend, either.
Neither will 10 of the 12 Chase drivers for that matter.
With two races to go, the spotlight will shine brightly on just two drivers—points leader Jimmie Johnson and second-place Brad Keselowski.
That means there also will be a heap of pressure on the two championship contenders.
How they handle it may determine who takes the prestigious championship next week at Homestead-Miami Speedway.
What to watch
1. Johnson vs. Keselowski
Separated by just seven points, their every move will be followed. Nary a twitch will go unnoticed and unchronicled.
With two races remaining, they'll have to go hide in their motor homes to get any peace at all.
With the championship on the line, every move is critical—each practice run, every qualifying lap, every comment to the media, even every head nod or wink in the garage, which could be construed as a psychological ploy.
And it all will play out under the watchful eye of the media, which will be intent on ratcheting up the pressure even more.
Who has the edge?
Johnson has the points lead, a better record at Phoenix and nine eight years of championship experience.
Keselowski, though, hasn't blinked. He's produced solid finishes two weeks in a row at tracks where he was expected to struggle, including banging doors with Johnson in a battle for the lead last week.
His challenge is this: Outrun Johnson at one of his best tracks and go to Homestead with a chance to steal the championship.
2. The track
The one-mile oval was repaved and reconfigured last year, making it a bit more challenging in the past two races.
In fact, it's been downright treacherous at times, especially in Turn 3, where's it's difficult to pass.
"The dogleg, kink, Turn 3, whatever it is on the back straightaway, there was a bit of chaos in navigating that thing—guys shooting across the flat—which led to some issues into the real Turn 3," Johnson said.
"I think that is really the thing to be focused on. There might be some crashes as a result of that."
There were eight caution flags in last year's race, seven for wrecks. There were seven caution flags in March, but just three for wrecks.
The championship contenders will need to be aggressive, but careful. One slip-up could cost either of them the championship.
3. Fuel mileage
Though Phoenix is a flat, one-mile track, it has been known to produce fuel-mileage races over the years.
The most infamous one came two years ago when Denny Hamlin essentially lost the championship when he ran out of fuel late in the race.
Keselowski would have the edge if it turns into a fuel-mileage race, but both drivers will need to make sure they get their fuel tanks full and don't miscalculate.
Who's Hot …
Jimmie Johnson: You can't be much hotter than two straight wins. Unless, of course, he makes it three straight this weekend, which could happen. Johnson also has four straight top 10s, three in the top five. Typical Chase finish for the five-time champ.
Brad Keselowski: He would be on fire and probably headed toward a championship—if it weren't for the guy above him. Still, three straight top 10s, including second last week at Texas, is helping him keep Johnson in his sights.
Clint Bowyer: Who has as many top 10s in the Chase as Johnson and Keselowski? That's right, Bowyer. But it hasn't been enough to keep pace with the Chase leaders.
Who's Not …
Denny Hamlin: Hamlin has had a bad habit of putting together back-to-back poor finishes this year. Finishes of 33rd and 20th in the past two races knocked him out of title contention.
Mark Martin: He's finished an uncharacteristic 24th and 29th in his last two races. The part-timer will try to stop the slump this weekend.
Jamie McMurray/Juan Pablo Montoya: How far have these two fallen? They've gone a combined 39 races without a top-10 finish.
Jimmie Johnson: Johnson could win his third Chase race in a row this weekend. He's done it before—four straight in 2007. Who would bet against him?
Denny Hamlin: He won at Phoenix in March and he's got to be ticked off at the way his championship plans have fallen apart. Hamlin will be going all-out to upstage Johnson and Keselowski this weekend.
Kasey Kahne: He won this race last year for Red Bull Racing. He should have a great chance to repeat with Hendrick Motorsports.
Winningest Active Drivers
4: Jimmie Johnson
2: Jeff Burton, Dale Earnhardt Jr., Jeff Gordon, Kevin Harvick, Mark Martin
1: Kurt Busch, Kyle Busch, Carl Edwards, Kasey Kahne, Matt Kenseth, Ryan Newman, Tony Stewart
By The Numbers
4: Number of championships Jimmie Johnson has won when leading after Race No. 34.
Nationwide Series
Race: Great Clips 200
Where: Phoenix International Raceway
When: Saturday, 4 p.m. ET
Fast fact: You think the Chase for the Sprint Cup is close, check out the Nationwide Series championship race, where Elliott Sadler and Ricky Stenhouse Jr. are tied with two races remaining. … Danica Patrick returns home this weekend. Patrick, who lives in Phoenix, will be looking for her fourth top-10 finish this season and trying to hang on to 10th in the series standings. … Brian Vickers announced this week that he will run the full Nationwide schedule for Joe Gibbs Racing next year. He will make his Gibbs debut this weekend at Phoenix. … Joey Logano will be looking for his ninth win of the season for Gibbs. Other Sprint Cup drivers in the field are Vickers, Brad Keselowksi, Kasey Kahne and Kyle Busch.
Elliott Sadler: Sadler won the March race at Phoenix and needs to win again to close in on Stenhouse in case they finish the season in a points tie. Stenhouse has six wins to Sadler's four, and would hold the edge in a tiebreaker.
Ricky Stenhouse Jr.: With the championship on the line, both drivers will be going all-out to try to win the race. Stenhouse finished third in March and has an average finish of 6.6 in five starts at the track.
Kyle Busch: Busch does not have a Nationwide win this season and desperately wants one with his new team. He has won two of the past five Nationwide races at Phoenix.
Camping World Truck Series
Race: Lucas Oil 150
Where: Phoenix International Raceway
When: Friday, 8 p.m. ET
Fast facts: James Buescher enters the race 15 points ahead of Ty Dillon in the championship race. A year ago, Buescher failed to qualifying at Phoenix and it likely cost him the championship. … The top four drivers—Buescher, Dillon, Timothy Peters and Parker Kligerman—are separated by just 27 points. … Kyle Larson, who just won the NASCAR K&N Pro Series East championship, will make his third truck start this weekend. He finished 10th and sixth in his first two races. … John King, who won the season-opening race at Daytona, returns at Phoenix to drive the No. 5 Wauters Motorsports Ford.
James Buescher: Though all four of his wins have come on 1.5-mile tracks this year, a win on the 1-mile oval would help him take a big step toward clinching the championship.
Todd Bodine: Bodine is one of only two drivers in the field who have ever won at Phoenix. Bodine, who has one win this season, was the last to do it in 2006.


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What do Liberty Ross and Rihanna have in common? This weekend, both girls – whose styles are fairly polar when it comes to opposites – both rocked the latest in Givenchy printed t-shirts. It's around £360 depending where you track one down and created as a mash-up of a previous collection's kaleadasopic bird of paradise print with a religious twist – look closely and you'll see the Virgin Mary having a bit of fashwan moment courtesy of Riccardo Tisci. Who do YOU think wore it best? RiRi with loose-fit black pants, Tom Ford wedges and Diana Ross-style curls, or Liberty in her casual-cool denim cut-offs, Celine tote and retro sunnies? Either way, they're lucky to get hold of one; everywhere we look this haute tee has sold out… You may still have a chance on the Selfridges website if you act fast!
Rihanna instagramming her Givenchy tee and the real product up close!
As we mentioned already, this statement t-shirt idea isn't a new one for Givenchy and there's a long line of previous versions that span a wardrobes spectrum of popstrels Rihanna (this is her second version of the season) and Rita Ora, actress Liv Tyler, a legion of street-snapped ladies. Even fashion conscious A-list guys on the circuit have cottoned on, with Riccardo creating special versions for Kanye and Jay Z's Watch The Throne tour. A truly unisex piece, especially when the prints are so sharp and occasionally scary – do you remember the Rottweilers of autumn/winter 2011? Now there's a sharp-toothed shark out to be snapped up for your shopping bag. SCROLL through our gallery above for a mini history of Givenchy tee-wearing celebrities!
Read more fashion and beauty news on graziadaily.co.uk
See what's in the latest issue of GRAZIA magazine
Click here to subscribe to the GraziaDaily newsletter

subset: commoncrawl


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Bahrain Women Educate WNBA's Mistie Bass
WNBA player Mistie Bass's essay in Friday's New York Times is a personal reflection about her stint coaching a women's basketball team in the Persian Gulf kingdom of Bahrain:
"They were used to being coached by men who tended to discourage them. But I saw nothing but tremendous potential, and I tried to nourish it. I made it clear that I was invested in the team's improvement, and the players made it clear that they were serious as well. … Coaching them really drove home the point that if you give with no intent to receive, you will get so much more in return."
Bass goes on to say how she transcended her own preconceptions about Islam through the real relationships she developed with her players. Her essay reminds me that sports can be a powerful way to forge bonds despite differences in language, culture, and religion.
We've been talking as a production staff about the meaning and purpose people find through sports — whether they're athletes or fans or both. With the World Cup fast approaching, we're wondering about the significance of sports in your own life. Is there a spiritual dimension to sports for you? What ideas do you have about how SOF could open up a conversation about this topic?
(photo: Mistie Bass/Chicago Sky)


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Enjoy Xfinity in California
Xfinity from Comcast is the latest in cutting-edge premium home television programming. It offers an exciting range of all-digital channels, an impressive lineup of Pay-Per-View and On Demand video options, and HD DVR packages to ensure you'll never miss a minute of your favorite programs. If you're like the majority of California residents, you spend about 35 hours every week watching TV. To fill your TV time with quality entertainment, Xfinity has just what you're looking for with deals, offers, and specials.


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Hellidon Lakes Golf & Spa Hotel - QHotels4
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Hellidon Lakes Golf & Spa Hotel is a truly splendid resort hotel, set in 220 acres of delightful rolling countryside on the borders of Warwickshire and Northamptonshire. Complimentary car parking and Free WiFi is offered throughout the hotel including all guest bedrooms. All 106 bedrooms and suites are tastefully furnished and well appointed with many having wonderful views of the beautiful surrounding countryside and 27 hole golf course.
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- The price shown is based on the occupancy and dates you have searched for. Prices and availability are subject to change based on the arrival date, number of nights and occupancy searched for. All prices are inclusive of all local taxes.
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|Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
|YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
|Layton Kor
|Page Views:
|Submitted By:
|Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2005
|Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
|Comments on Pear Buttress
|Add Comment
|Show which comments —
Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001
|Escalar - I have never done this route, but I have a story about the unprotectable first 20 or 30 feet. About 20 years ago we were on our way to climb the J-Crack when someone fell off of Pear Buttress. Just before we got to the base of the route, a guy came sprinting down the trail on his way to call for a rescue. Seconds later we heard the moans of the victim who was actually chanting "ohhmmmm". We reached him a few minutes later and found out what had happened. He fell nearly 30 feet and luckily landed on his feet, but unluckily also landed on a 4 inch diameter tree root which snapped his lower leg just above the ankle. He had a double compound fracture and was bleeding pretty badly when we got to him. Both bones were sticking out of his wool sock and the blood would really flow when he got anxoius, then it would nearly stop when he chanted and calmed down. We elevated his leg and tried to make him comfortable until the rescue team arrived, incredibly, about 45 minutes later. We never found out how he made out, but I bet his climbing career changed dramatically after that. We went on to climb the J-Crack, but were too nervous to really enjoy it that day.
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 4, 2001
Somehow despite that vivid description by Escelar I decided to climb this route today. Stellar the whole way. On P3, though, I went about 100 feet up that dynamite hand crack and then traversed _left_ across a clean face under a small roof before turning the roof on its left side. This puts you on a ramp that heads straight up and right at the cave.
More beta, too: you can exit straight out the cave, supposedly 5.8, or take a fun and easy (~5.4) hand traverse horizontally out to the right to the edge, and then up an easy chimney. We took the latter as storm clouds were approaching and we wanted an early exit.
Descent: Basically cruise straight ahead the same direction you were facing while climbing, along some ledges down and then up before you get to a sloping ramp/gully that cuts back down and to the right. Take this, which is fairly defined and has cairns.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 1, 2001
|Myke, that "easy, ~5.4 hand traverse" is rated 5.7+ or even 5.8 in all the guidebooks! I must add that I agree with them--and though it protects well, it's not sewn-up. Note that I describe both variations under the route, "The Cave Exit".
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001
|If you're strapped for time, you can do the route in 3 pitches and still get all the stellar climbing in. P1) Start on top of the leaning flake which puts you right at the crux move and head up to the belay at the base of the classic hand crack. P2) Jam the crack, do the traverse and belay on the standard belay ledge. P3) traverse diagonally right across the slightly runout slab, and over to the base of the obvious flake-filled chimney. Head up the 5.7 chimney (mostly jams and jugs) until your rope runs out. Even if you have a 50 meter rope, you'll still end up at a place where you can safely scramble up to the walk-off.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2002
|In the original description you can combine the first 2 pitches with long runners, minimal protection on the 5.4 section, and a 60m rope. Also, after the long 5.8 section, make the traverse under the bulge before the roof, climb up the crack in the middle at 5.7, jam the dihedral, and finish on the same large ledge. Belay spot takes green Aliens, small nuts, and a #4 Camalot. Finish the route with the 5.4 slab/crack and 5.7c cave exit. Total pitches: 3.
By Brice W
Jun 24, 2002
|Great route! As described in the comment above, the route does combine well into three pitches, though you will have some rope drag. The runout start is all there, but you do have to make some moves on small holds. Rossiter's book says extra #2.5 or #3 Camalots may be useful. The only place you'd need two of those would be towards the top of the flake on P1. I only had one, so there was a bit of a runout (15 feet, maybe?), but the climbing was not too hard. The 8+ section seemed very short.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 25, 2002
|I noticed when I climbed this recently that there is an anchor consisiting of a pin and a nut connected with a chain. Anyone have any idea how long the rappel is if you rap off left to the Fat City area (i.e can you do it with 1 60m rope to the ground)?
By Crusty
Jun 27, 2002
|A single rope rappel with a 60m rope does indeed reach the Fat City area from the piton/nut anchor atop pitch 2 of Pear Buttress.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2002
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
|A #5 Camalot can be used to protect the 5.7 move 30 feet off the deck on the first pitch. After you make the move, you can get in a bomber higher piece, clip into it, then back-clean the #5 and lower it to your belayer, since you won't need it for the rest of the climb.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jul 17, 2002
|30 feet? a bomber handjam and a 1 or 2 Camalot can be had a like 12 feet. You can also go up the thin crack to the left, it will take a good medium sized stopper after about 8 feet. Leave the 5 Camalot in the car.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2002
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
|The #5 Camalot is useful for the 5.7 face start, which begins 10 feet right of the flake. Using this start, it's not possible to place a smaller cam down low behind the flake since you don't get near the flake until you're 20-30 feet up.
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Aug 5, 2002
|Outstanding Climb. You can run pitch 2 and 3 together if you stretch the rope to the knot for 200 feet of 5.8 hand jamming with excellent exposure. It may require a simal climbing for 5 or so feet depending how you place your gear. Use supper long runners on the traverse from the end of pitch one and the lower part corner.
By Michael Kullman
Jul 7, 2003
|The 5.9R start isn't too bad - I got in a small TCU and a good small stopper (say #4 or #5) with a screamer about a foot above that in the small vertical seam that tapers out just at the bottom of the flake (8-10 feet off the deck). I felt like this protected the next couple of moves pretty well - as long as you don't blow it right before getting in the next piece about 8 or so feet up you'd be fine.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 20, 2003
|Like C.V. said, climb the beginning of "Loose End's" 2nd pitch for 20-30ft and make the traverse (L) back onto "Pear" at the piton belay ledge. Then follow the "Pear" out of the cave exit for one great day of climbing.
By John Fields
Oct 20, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|After climbing it the first time this weekend, this is now one of my alltime favorite climbs. A classic in my book, and an excellent 5.8 for someone transitioning from 5.7 to 5.8 leading (like me), with one caveat: getting to your first piece.If you're in my league and not confident with runout 5.7 face climbing right off the deck, my advice to you is swallow your pride and don't do the runout at the bottom unless you climb up to the top of the flake and "preset" a piece first. You can still place gear on the way up to the "preset" for experience and the fun of it (and for added safety). Some may object to this technique (and one factor to weigh here is whether there are people waiting behind you), but for me it beats the risk of spending several months in a wheelchair (something a friend of mine is now doing after an 8' fall onto a flat ledge). This climb is too fun to skip due to the runout at the bottom. And the bottom of the first pitch is too fun to skip by starting at the top of the flake.
By Burninator
Jun 3, 2004
|This is a good climb, but I don't think that it is a 5.8 I would say 5.7, if you can find the right foot holds, it's pretty easy, but it's smooth, a lot of people have definitely climbed it.
By Jeff Sallen
From: San Diego
Sep 17, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|Very enjoyable route with good exposure. Hope you like face climbing cause that first pitch is a little thin and definitely run out. We ended up taking the second crack on the left of the ramp on the second pitch, instead of continuing around the corner. I think it went at 9+. It was thin and definitely every bit of 9+. The third pitch is the prize winner, perfect finger crack which widens to hands. I got a bit sketched on when to traverse right on the undercling. Wait of the second (sic) of and more predominant overhang to traverse right under. Overall, a great route with a beauty of a summit. The walk-off is a bit painful in climbing shoes, I recommend bringing a small bag with food, H2O, and a light weight pair of sandles or shoes for the descent. Enjoy...
By Russell Oakley
May 10, 2005
|Hmmm, maybe I had my expectations too high today after reading all of the gushing comments above. I think Melvin's Wheel was better. The hand crack was nice, the little 5.9 var. added some spice, but this route is definitely not on my list of all-time favorites-- pretty good, but I probably won't go back to do it again.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Great route! On P1 a wide stem over to the flake was the move my leader made for a stance to place a #4 cam behind the flake for the (7) start. An easy move, yet mentally difficult for the leader because of the consequence as stated by others above.. a no fall move for sure....The crux move above off the flake is interesting, IMO favors those with a longer arms, involving a high reach finger lock into the headwall crack...very short sequence though, to a good hold a foot or two higher.The most enjoyable climbing for me was the P3 hand/finger crack. Great jams! We went to the right below the small roof above this crack and continued up a slab to the cave, exiting through its roof. The roof in this cave is well protected and not as difficult as it might appear at first glance..albeit awkward its a fun finish.
By craggin carl
Jul 18, 2005
|Climbed this for the first time on lead today. I got off route a couple times, but managed to make it to the cave. I thought the cave was tricky at first, but it really is not that bad. You can get some really good cams in the flake on the wall. The flake sounds hollow, and flexes quite a lot, but the cams look good so don't worry. Lead with the left hand over the lip and find the jug, It's pretty easy if you get the stem with your leg on the opposite wall. I only give two stars because of the tricky route finding and wandering line.
By Nick White
Jun 10, 2006
|Did this route a few days ago, and it was one of the best routes I've ever climbed. I led every pitch and enjoyed all of them. The runout start isn't bad at all, it's just a little intimidating when one first looks at it, but its easy after getting over the mental aspect. The third pitch is totally awesome, what a perfect deep crack, not the usual shallow Lumpy flared crack. I would suggest this route to anyone looking for a good moderate route with great climbing and great views.
By Byron Murray
Jul 5, 2006
|Awesome Climb! P1 5.9 goes well using an Alien (5 - 10 feet) off the deck and a #4.5 Camalot once the crack narrows. An extra #2 Camalot with a standard rack; nuts, Aliens, and Camalots up to #4.5 protect the route well. Beta for the cave exit: I recommend stemming to place a cam just below the pin and clipping into the pin. You can then step back down and climb the route by hand traversing out on the rail. Heel hook / bump up with your right hand to the next rail and then stem / step up to the rail to gain purchase above the roof.
By jacktheburro
From: Denver
Nov 5, 2006
A friend and I got blown off this route earlier today, and we had to leave a nut and a gold Camalot to retreat from. If anybody climbs the route and retrieves this piece, please shoot me an email at email@example.com.
By FCJohn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2007
Just did this route for the 5th time. There have been lots of comments about linking pitches and here is my addition to the discussion.
We did the route from top to bottom in 3 pitches with a 60 m rope by bypassing the 5.4 3rd pitch on Pear Buttress.
P1: Started the 5.7 PG-13 face climb and climbed all the way up to the barnacled/crystal ledge at the base of two finger cracks. (linked P1&2)
P2: Went up the left of two finger cracks (5.9 -- P2 of loose ends) up past the chain belay ledge through the hand crack on Pear Buttress and to the notch below the small roof
P3: Did the small roof traverse with long slings, up through the run out slabs, up to the cave exit and belayed at slung boulders on the summit.
We were able to go pack to pack in just about 2 hours
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2008
|Fun variation: You can make it to the base of the P3 splitter in a single 70-meter pitch starting on the first, excellent pitch of Loose Ends. But be considerate of other parties, as this wandering 'pitch' dominates several of the lines on this part of the wall.
By W. Spaller
Oct 30, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Protects perfectly and is an amazing route. Because of the perfect pro, I would recommend this route to a budding 5.8 leader. Just be careful on the start. I would also recommend doing the entire route in 3 pitches as it saves much time.
By Colin Kenneth
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2010
I suppose you could always skip the first two pitches by doing Toot as well. Barring a slip though, the start of the first pitch is stable climbing. A person can get a compound fracture from falling 20 inches and landing the wrong way.
Why psyche everyone out with horror stories? If something goes wrong ANYWHERE, it can be bad.
Be safe. Don't focus on the consequences so much that you loose your composure, and then you can just enjoy the climbing.
By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Jun 7, 2010
|The optional last pitch traverse out right and up from the cave is not hard and has acceptable gear- 5.6ish. I traversed right then around the corner and up; my partner followed right then straight up. Either way it is pretty fun and quick. Weather was threatening so I combined this with the 4th pitch- ok with some rope drag.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
|I've done both starts, and either one is excellent climbing. The R. start is not well protected for the first 15-20 feet, and a ground fall would likely be messy. I actually prefer the R. start better for my "style" of small holds face climbing. The L. start is a bit "reachy" for a shorter climber.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 16, 2011
|Climbed last Monday. Pitch 1 to the ledge after the twin finger cracks (crux). Pitch 2 left and up to the top of the hand crack with good finger locks. Pitch 3 right into the dihedral up to the cave. Pitch 4 pull the cave move and you're done. Done with a 60m rope without issue.
By 419
From: Sacramento
Jun 29, 2011
|A piton protects the cave exit.
By E Holte
Jul 9, 2011
|A great route that should not be missed. Lumpy Ridge has high quality rock with solid pro placements to be had. Beginners will want to follow solid known route lines. Lumpy's many features and multiple pitch routes could climb you out to nowhere you want to be. Get there early for good parking and don't leave food out. Critters know climbers bring snacks. The ratings in Lumpy are pretty solid. Crack craggers will be drawn to this place forever. If you are new to trad, leading Lumpy will open doors. The veterans will just appreciate the length, quality, and some exposure of Lumpy as a whole. The perfect 5.10 tuning can be had here. Know your anchors, knots, and have fun.
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
Jul 16, 2011
|I had a lot of fun on this one. The 5.7 start was classic! Easy route finding, and great rock. We had to get there early on a weekday to be the first group on the route. I did it pretty easily in three pitches, 70m rope. **** grade II.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2012
Wow! That third pitch finger and hand crack is just about as good as it gets. Go climb it and see for yourself!
For linking, we did the whole thing in 3 pitches with a 60m. Ground past the first ledge to the second ledge (atop Loose Ends splitter etc?). P2 was the money crack through that roof and up the water runnel until you run out of rope short of the cave. P3 up to and through the cave to the summit.
By Kirill Belyayev
Jul 14, 2012
|Lost my 0.75 BD cam marked with black tape today. Please let me know if you find it. Thanks
By michael voth
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 2, 2013
|If you want to, you can climb the first pitch of Loose Ends to avoid the runout start. Harder but protects very well, especially if you bring extra #4-7 nuts and a few c3s. Belay is in the same spot I believe as 1st pict of Pear Buttress. Of course, this is provided it is not crowded and somebody wands to climb Loose Ends proper. Loose Buttress, ha.
By flynn
Apr 24, 2013
Watched Gary Neptune walk up the first pitch in Kronhoffer's more years ago than I'll admit, chatting all the way. He threw an ancient-even-then hex in the crack and kept going.
I got up to the committing move when it was my turn to lead, wimped out and down-climbed. Since then, I've just led up the slab to the left of the usual corner, not placing pro until I get to the ledge formed by the top of that flake (right below the crux). That way, my second can have the fun of climbing the real start, and I don't have to make any more of my hair turn grey.
By Eric Wydeven
From: austin, tx
May 2, 2013
|I'll be in Lumpy this summer and plan to do some climbing with my father-in-law, who climbs some and will have been training with a finger board for whatever we get on this summer. I'm thinking of taking him up Pear Buttress, but he doesn't have any jamming skills (period). Can this one be climbed without jams? Holds on the face? Imperfections or holds in the cracks? I'm pretty comfortable leading 5.8 and will take the sharp end; I just want to know a bit about what's up there before we leave the ground. Looking for adventure but not an epic.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 2, 2013
|The third pitch would be pretty epic without some jamming skills. Take him up something in Eldo, or an easy high peaks route (if you don't mind the more committing day). If it's gotta be Lumpy, some fun moderates that do not require much jamming include East Ridge of Twin Owls; Batman and Robin; Hand over Hand; Hiatus (scary for the leader); and Magical Chrome Plated. There are also many great routes in the 5.8/9 range on Sundance Buttress that don't involve a ton of jamming, but these are more committing.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 10, 2013
|Eric, I sent you a private message, did you get it?
By Eric Wydeven
From: austin, tx
May 17, 2013
|Yeah Charles. I got it yesterday. Tried to send you a private message in return but not sure if you got it as I also sent something to myself as a test and it never arrived. Thanks for your note. As it stands, I have my pop working on some jamming technique: shared a website with him and told him to get some practice wherever he could find it: parking garages, the neighbor's fence, between books on the bookshelf.... We'll see how that goes. I'm quite excited about the third pitch and really want to try it out, but I don't want to get up there and have to bail or knock his confidence into the dirt with a failed attempt. In the meantime I'm practicing my mechanical raising systems in case he needs an assist. We'll do some single pitch stuff over in Jurassic Park to warm up and get a little practice before we get too far off of the ground in the Book; I understand there's a crack to play around with on the TR area on the Dinosaur's Foot (though it looks like more of a layback/face crack than one lending itself to jamming). I'm holding Deville 3 or Magical... in reserve if he doesn't feel up to the Buttress, but I really want to climb it. We'll see how it goes in July. Thanks again.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
May 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|P3 has to be one of the best 5.8s out there. Superb.
By Pink Thunder
From: Lakewood
Jun 28, 2013
|I highly recommend exiting the cave via the right face. Fun, well-protected 5.9 moves. Takes a nut, a red Alien, and then a few more pieces. Really fun.
By Ryan Stefani
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If this is a 3 or 3+ star climb on a 4-star system, I give Melvin's wheel 11 stars. After all of the hype, I was kind of underwhelmed.
P.S. The cave exit is remarkably hard in the rain. Well, at least after the overhung wall is completely soaked anyway.
P.P.S. To get into a better position for the 5.6 traverse, we decided not to downclimb. The downclimb would have been wet, slimy, and fairly exposed. The original intention was to rap off of the piton at the top of the cave roof.
Be advised: I clipped into that piton with the gate facing the cave. When weighted to rap, the 'biner did not move into a "normal" position and was nearly cross loaded. The rope was sitting on the bottom end of the gate. If I fell on that, I would give it--at most--a 50% chance of holding a fall. If I would have clipped with the gate facing out from the cave (gate facing west), it would have been bomber. We ended up throwing a piece of webbing around a block in the floor and rapping from there.
I think a #2 in the roof is a better option.
By Canon
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Bypassed the start by coming in from the left. Hardest moves were on P1 from the top of the flake into the twin crack, but not bad. Entire climb very easy to protect. P3 is one of the best pitches out there. Double up on #0.5 to 1 Camalots, singles to #3, and offsets get a lot of play. Did the traverse out right on the cave exit as the cave was wet. Not bad - airy, and mind the rope drag.
By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 11, 2014
I'm not one of those dudes that hates on the classics, but this route is a total one pitch wonder.
P1. Begin with unprotected "5.7" slab. If you aren't solid on slab, start by scrambling up the flake to the left. The start is heads up and has been the site of many accidents.
P2. Traverse ramps and move the belay.
P3. Super classic crack. Awesome pitch.
P4. Traverse ramps and move the belay.
P5. Choose one of several awkward PITA exits around "the cave."
I enjoyed Melvin's Wheel way more! Even the chimney pitch.
By colussiv
Sep 15, 2014
|Cleaned a nut off of the belay at the end of P3 from the previous party's follower who could not remove it. PM me, if you were that party.
By Austin McCrimmon
Jun 23, 2015
|Had to bail and left some gear on top of pitch 1 (0.4 Camalot and some nuts). PM me or call me at (405) 312-0222 if you would be so kind as to return the gear. Thanks!
By Gunkiemike
Aug 30, 2015
I read all the mp.com info on this route before climbing it. My 2 cents: the flake start isn't any harder than 5.8, and the "twin crack" move of P1 isn't any harder than several other spots of this route (you just need to use both cracks). The short, steep corner move near the end of P3 (above the traverse R) was at least as tough, and came as a bit of a surprise.
The Cave Exit also doesn't seem to get the attention it deserves, though this was more of an issue with a couple hardcopy guidebooks I used. I was shocked that at least one book (I don't recall which one) describes this as a 4 pitch route that ends when you reach the cave. That's downright irresponsible.
Edited to add - I was stressing that the 3rd pitch "hand crack" would require more than the single #2 (gold) Camalot that we brought, but the crack never widened to what I consider typical perfect hands i.e. thumb folded into the palm jamming. Instead, the crack seemed to be 3/4" wide for the vast majority of its length, and we had that size well covered.
By Zeffe
Jun 5, 2016
The unprotectable flake start gave me a pretty reasonable heart attack.... I had gotten up high enough to place a blind #4, but when I climbed above it my foot slipped and somehow managed to kick the #4 at an angle that popped it - it was not a great placement. So then I'm about 20 feet up watching my #4 skitter to the ground with my feet fighting to regain purchase. Fear of serious injury rallied me to regain position, and after moving up again, I managed to shove a #1 deep behind the flake and get it clipped, and I finished the pitch with much heavy breathing. Really rattled me, watching that cam fall. At the end of the day, I was questioning the whole trad climbing thing.
I'd say the runout section is not HARD, but it is in a fairly physical layback position that does not lend itself to calm, and your're placing the pro semi-blindly and under duress.
I do not blame anyone for going up the left side of the flake... let your second do the funner right side of the flake and remove the wheelchair possibility. The main course is on P3, anyway.
By brucelacroix
From: Carson City, NV.
Jun 13, 2016
|I'd say the crux for me was definitely the first 20'. That was the mental crux for sure. After that bit, the rest of the route felt pretty casual. Good gear at the cruxes.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
This goes nicely in 3 pitches:
P1. 55m, 5.8. Combine first two pitches, and belay at the fixed pin and nut anchor.
P2. 60m, 5.8. Combine third and fourth pitch, and belay about 30' below the cave.
P3. 25m, 5.7. Use the Hurley Traverse exit.
Classic route that is easily repeatable.
By Sean Patrick NYC
From: NYC
Jul 16, 2016
Bailed yesterday due to some sketchy looking clouds, and I left an orange cordelette and two BD biners on a horn in the middle of the second pitch traverse. It would be nice to get it back. 914-447-1007.
Also, leave the big gear at home if you're solid at 5.6 or so. A #3 and a #1 protect the first pitch flake just fine, the second half of the flake is a cruiser.
By JulianG
Oct 27, 2016
|The beginning of the first pitch it did not look PG-13 to me. There are roots and rocks that will make for a bad landing. I've done it, and I'm glad I didn't fall. The first pitch of Loose Ends is a safer option.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
|Just chiming in here with my 2 cents: this is THE climb to do on Lumpy Ridge. Yeah, both starts are kinda scary, but as Layton always used to say - "Don't let fear stop you." My difficulty rating is slightly higher than more recent posts, but both my ascents of the route (and both starts) were done in RR Varappes, w/o benefit of sticky rubber. Sticky rubber would make the route feel a lot more secure on the tricky first pitch(es). Best route I've done at the grade (now a solid 5.8+).


text:
Meh... Atlanta for some reason, they are getting nervous now and rushing shots and shooting 3's spectacularly bad.
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Meh... Atlanta for some reason, they are getting nervous now and rushing shots and shooting 3's spectacularly bad.
Tonight, all flags must burn, in place of steeples.
Autonomy must return into the hands of the people.
It looks like 76ers have more than 6 NBA players....
Bargniani just made a 3 using the glass. Arghhhhh
Wow. Toronto up 12 at Memphis three and a half minutes before the end of the game. What really happened there? Did they stop having that great defensive mentality they had under their previous HC?
If you have a chance to run, run against Memphis on every single opportunity. From our match they were slow on the transition D
The Timberwolves absolutely hammered the Cavaliers tonight. What a beating.
Tony Wroten with a triple double. He's very Lance-like, right down to the questionable attitude/maturity issues coming into the league.
Evan Turner finally living up to his promise, Carter-Williams looking like the next Jason Kidd, Wroten looking like a huge steal, the underrated duo of Young & Hawes, and to top it off, they've got the guy who, if healthy, would've been the #1 pick in this year's draft waiting in the wings.
I really like Philly's future.
Evan Turner is the perfect example of why you don't give up on talent until 3-5 years. Even college upperclassman need time to adjust the NBA is a different animal.
I didn't want to create a new thread and wasn't sure where to put this....so I will post the question here.
Since the 8-0 start.....have those of you in Indiana started noticing more or the same amount of Sports coverage on the Local Sports channel and media?
Ash from Army of Darkness: Good...Bad...I'm the guy with the gun.
still a quarter and half or so to go, but the superteam Nets are getting smoked by 20 in Sacto
Utah now has recorded its 1st win. That Anthony Davis is a stud, though.
Oh now we are the only team that hasn't scored 100 points in a game. Darn whatever will we do without a better offense.
Matt Barnes just got ejected and grabbed a kid out of the stands and took him to the locker room. Not joking. I assume it's his kid? I hope?
Broooookllynnnnn.... when will Kidd be fired?
"We've got to be very clear about this. We don't want our players hanging around with murderers," said Larry Bird, Pacers president.
I can't stand Matt Barnes.
This PHX-POR game is kinda fun, but also kind of like "Both these teams might end up sucking they just don't know it yet" One of them will be 6-2 in a few minutes though
Joey Crawford's such a dick
Also, the Nets are 100% this year's Lakers. They are going to implode. And perhaps even more spectacularly because Kevin Garnett is bat **** insane. Paul Pierce might retire in the middle of the year.
Don't forget James Anderson dropping 36 on 12-16 shooting (6-8 from 3).
You're right about Wroten being a steal; getting him for a 2nd rounder (a top-50 protected one, no less) was the ultimate low risk, high reward move.
Last edited by Doddage; 11-14-2013 at 01:20 AM.
Sacto's about to finish off the Nets and they're playing Jay Z in the arena in the closing seconds lol
The Clippers are clicking in the 2nd half against OKC. Should be an interesting finish.
It's a shame we are subjected to the Knicks on national TV on back-to-back nights.
I like how the Mop guy that swept the area first didn't respond and just walked off and ignored him. I'm guessing that this particular Mop Boy won't have a job in the next game.
Ash from Army of Darkness: Good...Bad...I'm the guy with the gun.
If the mop boy had started laughing, Joey would've thrown him out the building.
"It's just unfortunate that we've been penalized so much this year and nothing has happened to the Pistons, the Palace or the city of Detroit," he said. "It's almost like it's always our fault. The league knows it. They should be ashamed of themselves to let the security be as lax as it is around here."
----------------- Reggie Miller


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Crystal Palace pulled off the shock of the afternoon beating Premier League leaders Chelsea 1-0 at Selhurst Park, thanks to a neatly wrapped gift from John Terry.
The Blues skipper headed into his own goal under pressure from Joe Ledley as Tony Pulis' side more than matched their lacklustre visitors.
Lacklustre Chelsea may have been, but that should distract from the hosts who battled for every ball down to the last second and maybe the deflating defeat at Newcastle last week inspired them to not leave anything to chance.
Both Bolasie and Jason Puncheon received yellow cards within the first 20 minutes for their over-eagerness and Damien Delaney who could have joined them for a very late shove to Fernando Torres.
Pulis started with the same starting 11 as at St. James' Park, with Ledley and Puncheon playing free roles on the wings.
The intent from Palace was clear with Bolasie, Puncheon and Adrian Mariappa all causing problems for Jose Mourinho's side, finding space time and time again.
The first real chance went to Chelsea though after Andre Schurrle slid in at the near post but could not get on the end of a Cesar Azpilicueta cross in the 18th minute.
Puncheon and Mariappa were finding space on the right wing with Chelsea unable to cope with their link up play, and their combination work saw a flash cross land on an unprepared Bolasie boot in the 26th minute after Nemanja Matic failed to cut it out.
Kagisho Dikgacoi was able to stamp his authority on the game as well, constantly providing neat little touches in the transition from defence to attack.
On the half-hour, his side could have had a penalty after Cameron Jerome fed in Bolasie to the Chelsea box and the defending Gary Cahill slid in clumsily, taking the player and the ball with referee Lee Mason turning down the Palace appeals.
The end of the first half saw Palace exert their pressure further with Mariappa again reaching the Chelsea goal line and after they failed to deal with his cut-back, Puncheon could only blaze over from close range.
The Selhurst faithful did not have to wait long after the break for a goal as following great work from Joel Ward on the left was headed into his own net by Terry.
Just 90 seconds later though Chelsea reminded Pulis' side of their quality as an Eden Hazard shot was tipped around the post by the excellent Julian Speroni.
But it was all Palace in the last 15 minutes.
Jerome hit the post in the 74th minute following great work by Mile Jedinak and a minute later Ledley's shot flashed past Cech's goal.
To finish off the game Mourinho had a small confrontation with a ball boy which is sure to make the Sunday newspapers, but the three points were not his, they were for the side from SE25 and thoroughly deserved.
Palace next face Cardiff - and potentially Wilfried Zaha - in a six-pointer in Wales next Saturday.
Palace: Speroni, Mariappa, Dann, Delaney, Ward, Dikgacoi, Jedinak, Puncheon (Parr, 90+1), Ledley, Bolasie (O'Keefe, 70), Jerome (Murray, 88).
Subs not used: Hennessey, McCarthy, Bannan, Ince.


text:
Two Unique Characters Bridge The Gap Between Action Figures And Statues...
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Last week we took a look at some of the cool new Marvel Select figures from Diamond Select Toys (read the review HERE), and this time were switching gears and heading into deep space with Star Trek The Original Series! While DST has been making Trek figures for a while, the latest series is called Star Trek Select and offers something a bit more unique. A new lineup of 7 inch figures, Select brings specific scenes to life with pre-posed parts and diorama elements while at the same time including interchangeable components so your toys can break out of those scenes if you so choose. The first two characters captured in this way shouldnt be of surprise to anyone, Captain Kirk and Mr. Spock!
The Star Trek Select figures come packaged just like the Marvel Select characters in huge, display-worthy plastic bubble and wraparound cardboard card. These figures come with tons of accessories, interchangeable parts, and diorama elements, so its great to be able to see all of that in the package. Beyond that the graphics on the package are really slick. Behind each bubble is a bright yellow starburst background that makes everything in front of it really stand out. The wraparound on the left side of the package is mostly blue, and on the front it has the Star Trek title, figure name, and a small image of the Enterprise.
The side of the package has a large beauty shot of the individual character, while the back panel includes photos of the figure in action, an upsell for the other, and a bio that talks about the episode being depicted in the included diorama. All in all its a pretty slick package, and one that non-openers will be able to show off with pride.
In all of science-fiction there are few characters more famous or popular than Captain James T. Kirk and Mr. Spock! The figures here of course bring to life their original versions made famous by actors William Shatner and Leonard Nimoy starting with Star Trek The Original Series in the late 1960s and continuing on through the films. Captain and First Officer of the U.S.S. Enterprise, Kirk and Spock maintained a great friendship and mutual respect despite their many differences. A man of passion and emotion, Kirk spent much of his time onscreen loving, fighting, and always trying to make a difference. Spock, meanwhile, as a half-human half-Vulcan sought to deny his emotions and rule his life with logic. Two of their greatest adventures are captured in these Select sets, the episode Space Seed in which Kirk does battle with the unfrozen Augment Khan Noonien Singh and The Devil in the Dark in which Spock must discover how to communicate with the alien Horta and end its conflict with miners encroaching on its territory.
Unlike in the Marvel Select line, the Star Trek Select characters are not represented in pure action figures as most people think of them: universally articulated figures good for a variety of poses with a few accessories. For Star Trek Select DST went with a different tack, creating figures that exist in a specific setting with a couple key poses and then the ability to customize them with some articulation and interchangeable parts. Kirk we see brings to life his one on one fight with Khan, and so in that scene has an articulated upper body and two sets of mostly static legs. One position has him standing and leaning forward to threaten the Augment, while the other is a wide-legged flying leap that works in the diorama with a hidden peg system.
Similarly Spock encounters the Horta being in a cave and can be displayed either standing on straight legs or kneeling down to get a closer look. Both sets of legs on Kirk and Spock feature the classic Starfleet uniform bell bottoms and boots, and those along with the upper body uniforms are chock full of creases, seams, and other clothing details. Kirk and Spocks shirts have more of the same along with textured collars, wrist braiding, and chest symbols. Face sculpts are very good and convey a lot of emotion (or appropriate lack thereof) for their specific scenes; Kirk has an angry grimace for his attack while Spock includes a stoic, stone-faced head and one in agony as he interfaces with the Horta.
Paint and colors on the Star Trek Select figures are spot on, with all of the bold primary colors you remember from the Original Series. All of the Starfleet pants and boot combos are matte black, while their shirts are mustard yellow and pale blue respectively. Both figures have gold details on their chest logos as well as their wrist braiding. The skin tone is very similar, which is nice considering you can interchange their hands for tons of display options. The faces are painted well, especially the pained Spock (although thats likely the one you arent going to use).
Like some of the Marvel Select figures, these two have incredible bases to recreate scenes from their two episodes. Spocks cave has a small section of floor with the Horta at one end and a short wall at the back. I confess I dont remember The Devil in the Dark enough to tell you if all of the details are correct, but the base looks pretty cool. There are different textures used on the floor and walls with nice uneven surfaces and shapes. Of course at one end of the base is the Horta itself, a convoluted mass of lava and stone-like flesh that even includes a small removable section! The colors on this base are fairly muted but look nice together, a gray for the floor, dark blue on the wall, and brown and yellow on the Horta. Opposite the Horta are two sets of pegs for you to attach Spock, one for his standing and one for him kneeling. Kirk, meanwhile, comes with a section of Enterprises Engineering deck with a plastic floorboard and console along with a cardboard cutout wall. The diorama is a huge blast from the past with its retro sci-fi sensibilities, knobs and switches, and bright colors. Frankly, its pretty awesome, and other than the slight bubbling in the black paint on mine it would be pretty perfect. Of course, you cant have Kirk fighting nothing, and so DST has included a non-articulated but highly detailed Khan figure in his distinctive orange suit. There are pegs on the floor for Kirks lunging feet, a peg on the console where Khan attaches, and a hole into which you can insert the post to hold up leaping Kirk.
As Ive noted before in this article, articulation was not the number one focus for these figures though they do have poseability augmented by their interchangeable parts. Each figure has two sets of legs that they attach to via a universal waist ball-joint. All of the legs have articulation at the boot tops which is helpful for stability. Spock and Kirk have the same articulation in their upper bodies with joints at the neck, ball-jointed shoulders, biceps, elbows, and wrists. Obviously the arms are the most poseable. In the parts and accessories department from top down Spock has the second head, one set of open hands, a phaser-wielding right hand, a gripping left hand, a closed tricorder, an open tricorder, and the two sets of legs. Kirk has a pair of open hands, a pair permanently gripping the console tool, two sets of legs, and a post to attach the leaping legs to the wall.
You can find Captain Kirk and Mr. Spock in specialty stores now, each with an MSRP of $24.99. These figures are going to appeal to a pretty wide spectrum of Star Trek fans, from The Original Series collectors to those who passed on or missed the previous action figure versions of these characters, etc. Each one on its own makes for a nice display piece in his diorama with a few options outside of it, but getting both really opens up your customizing universe especially with the different hands and legs.
Review and Photos by Scott Rubin
Review Samples Courtesy of Diamond Select Toys


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In August, 2012, Specialty Feed Ingredients Sustainability (SFIS) project consortium was launched, which was led by International Feed Industry Federation (IFIF) and the EU Association of Specialty Feed Ingredients and their Mixtures (FEFANA). AANG will be working, through the SFIS project consortium activities as the project partner, to measure and establish the role of specialty feed ingredients including amino acids on the environmental impact of livestock production. The project partners are united in the goal to contribute to reduction of emissions in the food and feed chain. Ajinomoto Animal Nutrition Accelerates Next Generation Technology Implementation and Expands "AjiProTM-L"
About Ajinomoto Co.
Ajinomoto Co. is a global manufacturer of high-quality seasonings, processed foods, beverages, amino acids, pharmaceuticals and specialty chemicals. For many decades Ajinomoto Co. has contributed to food culture and human health through wide-ranging application of amino acid technologies. Today, the company is becoming increasingly involved with solutions for improved food resources, human health and global sustainability. Founded in 1909 and now operating in 26 countries, Ajinomoto Co. had net sales of JPY 1,197.3 billion (USD 15.1 billion) in fiscal 2011. For more about Ajinomoto Co., (TYO: 2802), visit www.ajinomoto.com.
For further information, please contact: Ajinomoto Co., Inc. Public Communications Department; email@example.com


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Five-year highs for the S&P 500? What the heck? Must be all short-covering?
No, I don't think so. I think there's simply a level of Washington ennui that's pervading the market.
The people who haven't left the building are people who increasingly, I believe, won't be shaken out by the next Washington crisis.
That doesn't mean that they won't get spooked by bad earnings if we have them.
But think of it like this: If you sold on the debt downgrade last year, if you sold on the election jitters, and if you sold on the fiscal cliff, and if you sold on the dividend tax increase and if you sold on the utterances of politicians, you do look pretty stupid at five-year highs, don't you?
So much money was deferred from the market. So many people decided that dividends would cease to matter that much. So many hedge funds decided that the earnings had to be horrible that the spook factor was as high as I can recall.
Now, we know from Ulta Salon (ULTA), which guided "too in-line" and from lululemon athletica (LULU), which got downgraded, from Mellanox Technologies (MLNX), which had hideous earnings, and from Family Dollar (FDO), which had terrible guidance, that you aren't safe from disappointing individual company reports..
But that's different from being in an unsafe market. Those stocks are all pretty highly valued and didn't have dividend protection and are ahead, not behind, the market.
I think the reaction of the OK retailers to the OK news -- witness the positive reaction to allegedly disappointing Target (TGT) numbers -- is indicative that there was a short base in that group.
In general, though, the multiples aren't stretched for the big caps, international is getting better, and the individual has figured out how much to put into his or her 401(k) and retirement plans, now that we know the rules. Those who need yield went back in. Those who hadn't sold yet were given no new reason to sell.
Perhaps, more important, it isn't straight up. We were able to make some buys for Action Alerts PLUS today of stocks that were down that later climbed. They let you in -- another sign that it isn't short-covering.
Buying stocks, alas, on Washington worries talked about endlessly in the media hasn't been a sucker's game. Selling them has.
Maybe people are beginning to realize that that's the case. It won't be until huge amounts of money come back in the stock market and people aren't even talking about Washington that the jig might be up.
Until then, try to avoid the high-multiple players that ran big in 2012. Try to isolate the stocks at 12x to 15x earnings that could have good international prospects. Keep buying beaten-down master limited partnerships. And get ready for a rocky earnings season that will shake out some newcomers but I think, by and large, will do some damage to the high-multiple players but create some terrific buying opportunities for the others.


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Waiver Recipients Take Advantage of 'Second Chance' in Army
By John J. Kruzel
American Forces Press Service
WASHINGTON, May 8, 2008 – Army recruits who joined the ranks on conduct waivers are slightly more prone to misconduct, but also are promoted faster, re-enlist in higher numbers and represent higher-quality recruits than recruits who enlisted without needing a conduct waiver, an internal Army study revealed.
The analysis, conducted late last year, compared the re-enlistment rates, performance and effects on recruiting standards of soldiers who didn't need a conduct waiver to enlist to those whose prior malfeasance was waived.
"For the most part, the individuals that we're bringing in [on waivers] are not the folks that are dabbling in crime," said Army Maj. Jake LaPorte, who works in the strength forecasting division of the Army's personnel, policy and guidance office. "I think they're the ones who have had a mistake, and we're giving them a second chance."
The Army runs potential recruits convicted of a felony or of both serious and minor offenses through a 10-person review. Before a waiver is granted, a general officer must approve the enlistment.
The study sample was made up of first-time recruits from fiscal 2003 to 2006, allowing time for re-enlistment figures to emerge. Findings that reflect positively on waiver recipients include:
-- The conduct-waiver population from fiscal 2003 re-enlisted at a higher rate -- 28.4 percent percent -- compared to a rate of 26.7 percent for soldiers who didn't need conduct waivers;
-- The infantry conduct-waiver population was promoted to sergeant faster, at 34.7 months of service vs. 39;
-- The conduct-waiver population had a higher ratio of valorous awards, 13.87 percent vs. 12.73 percent; and
-- The conduct-waiver population represented higher-quality recruits, producing a higher percentage of high school graduates -- 86.58 percent vs. 84.2 percent -- and higher Armed Forces Qualification Test scores, 61.2 vs. 60.1.
However, the conduct-waiver population had higher losses in six of nine "adverse loss" categories:
-- Misconduct: 5.95 percent vs. 3.55 percent;
-- Pattern of misconduct: 1.78 percent vs. 1.35 percent;
-- Alcohol rehabilitation failure: 0.27 percent vs. 0.12 percent;
-- Desertion: 4.26 percent vs. 3.59 percent;
-- Military prisoner, bad conduct discharge or dishonorable discharge: 0.5 percent vs. 0.4 percent;
-- Discharge in lieu of courts-martial: 2.58 percent vs. 2.04 percent.
In 2007, the Army granted 511 felony waivers, an increase from the 249 it granted the previous year. Despite this spike, a senior officer said, the Army's standards have not wavered.
"I would say they're probably more stringent," Lt. Col. Val Siegfried, the Army branch chief for enlisted accessions, said of today's requirements for enlistment compared to those in recent decades.
He said that society judges petty theft and in-school fighting more harshly now than in the past. "If you get in a fight in school as a 14-year-old and kick somebody, it's aggravated assault with a deadly weapon," he said, adding that the Army takes a "whole person" look at each recruit, examining the context in which they committed their crime.
"Should that [person] not be brought into the Army and serve his country simply because he got in a fight in school?" he said. "Those are a lot of the kind of people that have been given a waiver for a felony offense in the juvenile life."
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Nearly 20 Years in the Making...
To insure your action figure collection, get in touch with Collectibles Insurance, the official insurance company of the Figures.com network. Say "Figures.com" to get 5% off your first term premiums.
To buy action figures, take a look at BigBadToyStore.com, RedfordFilms.com, Toynk.com, PastGenerationToys.com, BriansToys.com, ToyWiz.com, and MonkeyDepot.com.
A collection nearly 20 years in the making, UDON Entertainment announces the impending release of Marvel vs. Capcom: Official Complete Works. This is a brand-new art book collecting all of the official artwork, sketches, and bonus material from all of Marvel and Capcoms video game collaborations - from 1993s The Punisher arcade game right up to 2012s smash-hit Ultimate Marvel vs. Capcom 3. Compiled by UDON with the help of Capcom and Marvel, this is the first time this material has ever been collected in one place - on either side of the Pacific.
Weighing in at nearly 200 pages, Marvel vs. Capcom: Official Complete Works has been a labour of love for the UDON production team. Working closely with Capcom creative head Shoei Okano, UDON has dug deep through Capcoms archives to find extremely rare high-resolution art and materials to put together for this project - no easy task considering no Marvel vs. Capcom art book was ever printed in Japan. Includes stunning artworks by Akiman, Bengus, Shinkiro, Joe Madureira, Adi Granov, and more. Complementing the classic pieces is an all-new gallery of Marvel vs. Capcom illustrations by comics superstars including Joe Ng, Long Vo, Chamba, Adam Warren, and Takeshi Miyazawa.
Marvel vs. Capcom: Official Complete Works will make its international debut at San Diego Comic-Con on Wednesday, July 11th, in an exclusive hardcover edition that will not be sold in stores (pictured above). The hardcover will feature an exclusive wrap-around cover by UDON and Marvel vs. Capcom artist Alvin Lee and digitally painted by UDONs Genzoman, and only 200 will be available over the course of the show, each priced at $100. A standard-format soft cover release (pictured top, $44.99) will follow in late November 2012, distributed by Diamond to comics and bookstores everywhere.
Source: UDON


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Crampon Climbing Gear Reviews
Black Diamond Cyborg Pro04-Feb-2010
The Cyborg is Black Diamond's teched-out crampon for ice and mixed climbing. Its materials, bindings, finish and adjustments are the same or similar to those used on the Sabretooth, so we'll stick to the details that are different. ...04-Feb-2010
Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro04-Feb-2010
Black Diamond enters the stainless-steel crampon arena, replacing its chromoly steel (aka carbon steel) Cyborg, Sabretooth, Serac and Contact (latter two not reviewed) with stainless-steel versions....04-Feb-2010
Black Diamond Snaggletooth12-Apr-2016
The Snaggletooth is an eyebrow lifter. Like the name says, the crampon has one front tooth, a widish, almost spoon-like monopoint that protrudes like an extension of your big toe. A stubby, secondary frontpoint rides shotgun. The Snaggletooth is the first crampon of this sort, and that merits investigation....12-Apr-2016
CAMP Vector Nanotech04-Feb-2010
These are the lightest steel crampons in the world. Paired with Scarpa's new super-light Phantom Guide (reviewed here), they create a performance combo that nearly competes with a fruit boot, but is warmer, and more versatile....04-Feb-2010
CAMP XLC Nanotech - Automatic23-Nov-2013
Field test results of the CAMP Nanotech XLC Automatic crampon....23-Nov-2013
CAMP XLC NANOTECH - SEMI-AUTOMATIC11-Nov-2013
The XLC Nanotech is the first of what I suspect will be a new breed of composite crampons—the frame is 7075 aluminum, but the front points are stainless steel....11-Nov-2013
Cassin Balde Runner12-Apr-2016
The Blade Runner may be the most technically advanced, versatile crampon yet devised....12-Apr-2016
Climb Safe: Gear Doesn't Last Forever - Crampons27-Mar-2015
To help make more climbers safer climbers, Rock and Ice has teamed up with Black Diamond Equipment to present the Climb Safe series.These articles aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. Here, Kolin Powick, Black Diamond's Director of Quality, investigates the lifespan of crampons....27-Mar-2015
GSb Binding27-Feb-2012
Having nearly had a nasty accident when a clip-on crampon popped off my boot while leading, I was keen to try the new GSb system on the Grivel G14 crampon and Scarpa Freney XT boot....27-Feb-2012
Kahtoola MicroSpikes02-Feb-2010
Kahtoola MicroSpikes gear tested by Rock and Ice magazine....02-Feb-2010
Kahtoola Traction System (KTS)29-Jan-2010
Kahtoola Traction System (KTS) field test report by Rock and Ice magazine....29-Jan-2010


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FIREFIGHTERS tackled a huge fire involving 20 tonnes of manure.
The two Corringham crews were called to Springhouse Road, Corringham, just before 3.15pm today.
The incident commander reported that 50 per cent of the muck heap was alight and they used one main jet and two hose reels to tackle the blaze.
They had put it out by 4.15pm.


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Sign into our member site to view your information online.Forget your username or password? Not registered? Register here
haloperidol (generic name)
It is used to treat schizophrenia
(ha loe PER i dole)
Table of Contents
Top Learning Centers(Recursos en Español)
What is this medicine?HALOPERIDOL (ha loe PER i dole) is used to treat schizophrenia. It is also used to control tics and vocal outbursts in patients with Tourette's syndrome.
What should I tell my health care provider before I take this medicine?They need to know if you have any of these conditions:
How should I use this medicine?This medicine is for injection into a muscle. It is given by a health-care professional in a hospital or clinic setting.
Talk to your pediatrician regarding the use of this medicine in children. Special care may be needed.
What if I miss a dose?This does not apply.
What may interact with this medicine?Do not take this medicine with any of the following medications:
This medicine may also interact with the following medications:
What should I watch for while using this medicine?Visit your doctor or health care professional for regular checks on your progress. It may be a few weeks before you see the full effects of this medicine.
You may get dizzy or drowsy or have blurred vision. Do not drive, use machinery, or do anything that needs mental alertness until you know how this medicine affects you. Do not stand or sit up quickly, especially if you are an older patient. This reduces the risk of dizzy or fainting spells. Alcohol can increase dizziness and drowsiness. Avoid alcoholic drinks.
Do not treat yourself for colds, diarrhea or allergies. Ask your doctor or health care professional for advice, some nonprescription medicines may increase possible side effects.
Your mouth may get dry. Chewing sugarless gum or sucking hard candy, and drinking plenty of water may help. Contact your doctor if the problem does not go away or is severe.
This medicine can reduce the response of your body to heat or cold. Dress warm in cold weather and stay hydrated in hot weather. If possible, avoid extreme temperatures like saunas, hot tubs, very hot or cold showers, or activities that can cause dehydration such as vigorous exercise.
This medicine can make you more sensitive to the sun. Keep out of the sun. If you cannot avoid being in the sun, wear protective clothing and use sunscreen. Do not use sun lamps or tanning beds/booths.


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Views & Briefings
Each briefing includes: headline messages (for those after a speedy overview); Cycling UK's formal views; quick key facts; and more detailed arguments and background information.
Overall, the briefings are categorised into six core themes: commitment to cycling; designed for cycling; off-road access; promotion and encouragement; safe drivers and vehicles; and public transport.
Key briefings include: cycling & local transport; health; cycle-friendly planning & design; road safety; road traffic law & enforcement; cyclists' behaviour & the law; 'smarter choices'; cycling in schools and cycle-friendly employers.
You can access the whole list below, or filter by theme.
- Need facts and figures? See Cycling UK's round-up of cycling statistics.
- Need quick-fire answers? See Cycling UK's 10 most common questions about the benefits and risks of cycling, helmets, hi-viz, behaviour, tax, licencing, registration and cycling's potential.
- Want regular campaigning updates from Cycling UK? Subscribe to our monthly Cycle Campaign News.
The briefing series is gradually replacing the policies published in Cycling UK's Policy Handbook, 2004.


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Andy says:"sat in locker room with dani. got the job done 10-4 in mtb. great effort from him."2 hours ago
Andy says:"hey guys. big 400m track session yesterday. painful, but good! speak soon.." (1 hour ago)
Andy says:"hey guys. at aorangi, tim just came by to say hello. good to be here...."5 hours ago


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Moderators: Timko, Fritz, Solty, Booter, Blake_T, Frank Delicious
Jeronimo wrote:For realz?? OMGITSRAREITSWORTH$100
ManU wrote:FINALLY!!!!
I get an auction pilloried on here
the Ringer is mine.
I had 3 and that is my last one
demand is there as I sold 2 used ones for $65 a piece.
Am I asking a lot for the new one. Yup. Is it cause it's rare. Yup. Don't like it? Don't buy it. Simple.
Maybe this one won't sell cause I'm asking "too much". If that happens such is life.
And of course people like the proto D ones (which I have as well) because the Z/Cryz ones aren't readily available. The only run I know of is the 50 that Dion Arlyn had made which this one is from. More people would throw the Z version if they could actually get it.
Having said all that I hope the pricing of my disc didn't offend you.
And I probably didn't need to rant and justify but I felt like it.
Jeronimo wrote:rarity AND demand should equate value.
grodney (IOWADG.COM) wrote:There are no righty holes, no lefty holes, no hyzer holes, no anhyzer holes. There is only skill and lack of skill.
Jeronimo wrote:How dare you compare a Z ringer to an Opto Pure...
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Des ressources pour exploiter des albums en cours d'anglais à l'école primaire.
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The CEFR Companion Volume with New Descriptors (Provisional Edition) is now available. The French version will be published in late autumn. It is intended as a complement to the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages: Learning, teaching, assessment (CEFR). It represents another important step in a process that has been pursued by the Council of Europe since 1971 and owes much to the contributions of members of the language teaching profession across Europe and beyond. The "Companion Volume" is the Council of Europe's response to requests that have been made by the groups involved in the field of language education to complement the original illustrative scales with more descriptors. In addition to the extended illustrative descriptors, it contains an introduction to the aims and main principles of the CEFR.
Venue: Canadian Centre for Studies and Research on Bilingualism and Language Planning (CCERBAL), Official Languages and Bilingualism Institute (OLBI), University of Ottawa.
Conference dates: May 3-4, 2018.
Deadline for proposals: December 15, 2017.
Featured events: Round tables and thematic symposia on Linguistic Risk-Taking, Bilingual and Multilingual Policies, and much more.
Conference theme: Translanguaging, a construct referring to the complex use of more than one language as a (combined) resource, has captured the imagination of researchers, educators, and policy makers around the world. The role of translanguaging as a linguistic and social practice in family, community, educational and institutional contexts raises a number of stimulating and challenging questions that call for continued discussion.
Shona Whyte's insight:
Call for papers - Dec 2017, conference May 2018
CORLI is a consortium of Huma - Num, an organization that helps to organize and provide ser- vices for digital humanities in France. CORLI is the consortium for linguistics and includes all aspects of linguistic research and development. As France just joined Clarin as an observer, the objective of our paper is to introduce the con- sortium CORLI to Clarin; CORLI will act as an interface between Clarin and the scientific community of linguists. The goal of CORLI is to help linguists create, use, and disseminate linguistic corpora and digital tools. CORLI has always maintained a policy of providing funding and technological help to fi- nalize and publish corpora issued from a wide range of institutional or personal rese arch pro- jects. CORLI is also involved in recommending and the circulation of guidelines related to re- search and technical practices, especially about linguistic corpora. Finally, CORLI organizes workgroups whose goal is to create and moderate networks that target tools and practices in lin- guistics. These workgroups are organised thematically around topics including metadata, for- mats, tools and practices for corpus exploration, archiving systems, multimodal practices and annotations. Their goal is to help sh owcase innovative work and trends undertaken in research labs and to finalize and disseminate current methods and practices in digital humanities re- search.
Three documents have been developed in the framework of the 2nd World OER Congress. The two documents: Open Educational Resources: From Commitment to Action and the Open Educational Resources: Global Report 2017 provide the outcomes of the six regional consultations and global surveys conducted prior to the 2nd World OER Congress. The third document, Ljubljana OER Action Plan 2017, will be the outcome document of the 2nd World OER Congress and is based on the outputs of the regional consultations, a global online consultation of the document in the months leading up to the Congress and the deliberations of the 2nd World OER Congress. All three documents are complementary and provide a framework for both understanding the current status of OER worldwide and identifying concrete actions to mainstream OER to achieve SDG4.
Shona Whyte's insight:
Share your insight
It's been ten years since the Capetown Open Education Declaration. We're still going strong. Here are ten directions to move Open Education forward.
Browse the full conference programme including workshops, sessions, poster sessions, and networking events.
Volume 12 Issue 1 2017 Download Full PDF at ELE Journals Trends in Vocabulary Research Marina Dodigovic, Stephen Jeaco, Rining Wei A New Inventory
Shona Whyte's insight:
Open access issue
Resources from 2016 NFLRC webinar series on online language teaching
Researching Writing is perhaps a best fit for an undergraduate research methods course in writing studies, but the text could be a natural addition to an undergraduate TESOL or second language writing theory course to support student inquiry into writing practices. Teachers also might find the text relevant for advanced writing courses for second language writers or cross-cultural composition courses that include an emphasis on inquiry.
Shona Whyte's insight:
Useful for researchers writing in L2 English
Programme sur 2 jours - concours, et sociétés savantes
Shona Whyte's insight:
Institutional life of English studies in France
Trends in Vocabulary Research
Marina Dodigovic, Stephen Jeaco, Rining Wei
A New Inventory of Vocabulary Learning Strategy for Chinese Tertiary EFL Learners
Xuelian Xu, Wen-Cheng Hsu
"I Used Them Because I Had to . . .": The Effects of Explicit Instruction of Topic-Induced Word Combinations on ESL Writers
Jelena Colovic-Markovic
The Effect of Input Enhancement on Vocabulary Learning: Is There An Impact upon Receptive And Productive Knowledge?
Christian Jones, Daniel Waller
Vocabulary Teaching: Insights from Lexical Errors
Mª Pilar Agustín-Llach
Lexical Transfer in the writing of Chinese learners of English
Marina Dodigovic, Chengchen Ma, Song Jing
Helping Language Learners Get Started with Concordancing Stephen Jeaco
Self-assigned Ranking of L2 Vocabulary
Heidi Brumbaugh, Trude Heift
Recognition Vocabulary Knowledge and Intelligence as Predictors of Academic Achievement in EFL Context
Ahmed Masrai, James Milton
Using Category Generation Tasks to Estimate Productive Vocabulary Size in a Foreign Language
Shadan Roghani,
James Milton How General is the Vocabulary in a General English Language Textbook?
Hedy McGarrell, Nga Tuiet Zyong Nguien
A Corpus Comparison Approach for Estimating the Vocabulary Load of Medical Textbooks Using The GSL, AWL, and EAP Science Lists
Betsy Quero
Shona Whyte's insight:
Open access if you sign up


text:
– Cory and I have been in Charleston, South Carolina since Tuesday. (If you follow me on Twitter, you probably already know that, but it's so weird not mentioning it on the blog!) We're here to celebrate the wedding of my best/oldest/pseduo-sister friend, Lindsay on Saturday!!
She's a gem.
– Working "remotely" is super challenging. Kudos to those of you who work at home and consistently get shit done. Being in a hotel room is slightly easier than being at home, but it's so difficult to focus when I'm alone and in yoga pants. Does that make sense? Thank GOD I'm working on interesting stuff, or all would be lost.
– Since we're here early for the wedding celebrations (Cory + I are both working during the day) I'm trying not to throw my normal habits out the window just yet…
– …But that's hard as hell to do when the hotel's "fitness center" consists of an ancient stationary bike and an elliptical on it's last leg. Where are the weights, people?! A huge thanks to Erica for suggesting yesterday's in-room workout. It kicked.my.ass.
Click here for the work out. If you dare.
– I'm the worst co-pilot. I'm like an infant in the fact that I fall asleep after 30 minutes in the car. Cory thinks it's HILARIOUS to document this every time it happens.
– I'm still looking for hairspiration pictures for Saturday's wedding. Thus far, My Google image searches (short hair up do) have not yielded the best results.
If you've had short hair in any sort of "up-do" please email me a picture (lunchboxdiaries[at]gmail[dot]com). I'll be forever grateful.
– Today is my Friday! No work and all play is on the books for tomorrow Have a great day, my friends!
Let's chat – Where is the last place you traveled?


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In an industry where new acronyms always seem to cost a few hundred extra dollars, it's great to see a company like Vuelta doing what they do. Vuelta has built a solid reputation by turning out excellent products like mountain bike wheels and road wheelsets, cranks, chainrings and cycling accessories like wheel bags at an affordable price. No matter whether their bike wheels are alloy or carbon fiber, or made for the road, mountain or track, Vuelta hand-tunes every set of wheels that leaves their factory to ensure optimal quality and performance. And it doesn't stop there. Vuelta is always looking for new ways to improve their products and get you performing at your best, every day you ride.
We Make Shopping Safe, Secure and Easy
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ESPN.com news services
CINCINNATI -- Charity-minded callers are getting intercepted by a sex phone line because of a misprint on Cincinnati Bengals wide receiver Chad Ochocinco's namesake cereal boxes.
Courtesy of PBLsports.com
Because of a wrong toll-free prefix for a number listed on Ochocinco's cereal, callers are directed to a phone sex line instead of a children's charity.
The phone number is supposed to connect callers to Feed the Children, which benefits from sales of "Ochocinco's". But because the box has the wrong toll-free prefix, they get a seductive-sounding woman who makes risque suggestions and then asks for a credit card number.
Cincinnati-based Kroger Co. said Thursday it was pulling all Ochocinco cereal boxes from its grocery shelves because of the error. Some local stores had them on special display after the launch about a month ago.
Tara Sands of Reading, Ohio, told WCPO-TV and the Cincinnati Enquirer that her family called the number on the box hoping to learn more about the charity.
"We don't need anything to give our Bengals a bad name, especially Chad," Sand told WCPO. "He's obviously trying to do something great by doing this [for] 'Feed The Children.' "
Ochocinco told WCPO that the number was clearly a mistake and he's sure that the maker will fix the problem.
A woman who answered the phone at Pittsburgh-based PBL Sports, which specializes in such limited-edition products featuring star athletes and their favorite charities, told the Enquirer that the company is looking into the situation.
Information from The Associated Press was used in this report.