text:
|Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
|YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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|Cale Csizmadi on Mar 1, 2002
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
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By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 24, 2004
|5 bolts were replaced in October 2001 by the ASCA: "first pitch protection bolts, one bolt at pitch 3 belay, one bolt at original pitch 4 belay, and the protection bolt on pitch 5. Most anchors higher on route are one old and one newer bolt, and all can be backed up with natural gear. One protection bolt off of a ledge on pitch 6 is an old rusty 1/4"."
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|The above description ignores that there are at least 6 more pitches of rock up above that are part of this great route. My memory of being on some of of those last January is not good enough to really do justive to the route, but I wanted to make a comment or two.One of my reasons for not going tha whole distance was the lack of equipment- that being which was required to replace the anchors on the upper pitches- in some cases just webbing and rings, but in all cases the stations were pretty sketchy one way or another. It should be done the rest of the way up.I ran out of webbign and rings before I finished the job. If you head all the way up, BYO.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2004
When I climbed this route, we went all the way to the top of Mescalito. The upper pitches are quite different from the lower ones, the rock is not as good, route finding ability is needed and there were no more fixed anchors (when I did it). Thus a larger rack and sense of adventure are required. The summit is a scenic spot that is worth a visit.
If you go to the top, I would not recommend rappelling the route. From the summit, simply scramble NW along the ridge, then eventually drop down the east side into a bowl, avoiding anything harder than 3rd class. From here you can descend into the north branch of Pine Creek (same creek where the route starts). I have done this twice, taking slightly different routes, doing one rappel or two. Look for downclimbing routes as much as possible, you should not have to do more than two raps (the last one right into the creek bed). This is actually a pretty short descent for Red Rocks (taking maybe 1-2 hours back to the base of the route). Unfortunately there is no descent beta from the top of Mescalito in the new Swain guide, I think there was in the old edition.
By John Peterson
Mar 8, 2004
Don't miss this route! A classic.
Not sure about the "s" on the first pitch rating - seemed quite reasonable to me. There's no reason at all not to combine pitches one and two - I've done it on 50m rope with no problem. Great ledge at the top of P2.
The 3rd pitch is most definitely not 75 feet. You CAN'T rap on a single 45 or 50 meter rope from there and I've got the booty to prove it. Haven't tried a 60m from there though. The best descent is with two ropes - you can rap 3 + 4 together (plus avoid the worst of the rope eating crack) and then 1+2. I always descend the last rap in tandem, each of us carrying a rope end to keep it out of the water. When you pull the rope get your partner to stand in the pool and keep your rope semi-dry!
Both lines are good on pitch 4 - the crack on the right and the dihedral on the left. The one advantage of the dihedral is that nobody will drop a rope on your head as you pull the crux.
Pitch 5 (the overhang) was pretty good but we backed down from there in the face of easy climbing and questionable rock. The character of the route changes a lot when you leave the varnish.
A great route for photography.
By 10b4me
Aug 10, 2004
|Great route! Cool creek and crystal clear pools at and near base. While we were climbing this route we got to watch mountain goats defy gravity on the cliffs across the way. Is anybody else ever amazed that an international epicenter of hedonistic pleasure, vice, dirt and grime is so close when back in these beautiful canyons? I always am.
By 10b4me
Oct 20, 2005
|My partner and I only had the original 1970's small little red guidebook that describes this route in detail for 6 pitches and then says something like "climb a bit more to the top and then walk-off down the ravine." I will say the first 4 pitches are spectacular - some of the best climbing I've done at Red Rocks. The next two pitches were so-so and the last "bit" of climbing to the top was actually two more full rope lengths of sketchy moderate face climbing with essentially no pro. We got to the top near the end of the day and after searching around quite a bit we saw no easy walk-off. We decided it would be safe to come back down the way we knew, but the raps consisted of having to use sketchy webbing through a hole in sandstone at the top, a single old rusty bolt for the next rap (no place to put in pro), and then us having to leave a two nut anchor for the third rap until we were back to the nice bolts at the tope of P4. Do yourselves a favor and rap back down after the fourth pitch... the rest of the climb (and adventure) isn't worth it.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 20, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Well, I havent been to the top via Dark Shadows, but I have summited via Deep Space, a route a ways to the left.
Walking off Mescalito is possible, but routefinding is important, so getting to the summit with an hour or two of daylight left is ideal. Basically head back and drop off to the right (north side) and then stay high, following the occasional cairn for quite a ways. A couple of short 4th class traverses later, and eventually you hit the canyon floor near a fallen tree and a large boulder. From here, its just a good, long, easy hike back to the packs and the car.
Alternatively, it is also (in theory) possible to rappel the last chimney on Cat in the Hat, then downclimb to the summit of the regular route and then rap that route with two ropes.
By Tim Baguley
Feb 1, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Perfect route for warm/hot days. Totally shaded with a nice, cool pool of water at the base.
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Jul 21, 2007
|this thing is not all in the sun thats crazy, went last monday got an early start and only pitch 4 was in the shade, if you plan to try to escape the sun and climb this in the summer dont start early the sun cooks it. the shade doesent start untill around 11 but i finally did the route the first 4 pitches. and i am impressed, i liked dark shadows, so go back and do it, is what i say..and the base is a great spot to chill out
By adirondack-aaron
From: Albany NY
Jun 13, 2008
|What s stellar route! I led the first 3 ptches, actually linking pitch 1 and 2 together. The third pitch was my favorite. All in all, some of the best climbing I've done so far. Watch out for the water down below when tossing your rope. 2 60 meter ropes are whats needed for 2 raps to the base.
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Aug 28, 2008
|Topped this out yesterday and I think the upper pitches are awsome. Climbed the first 4 of Dark Shadows to the roof, then went through the roof to do pitches 5&6 of Heart of Darkness. Joined up with dark shadows agian to top out. Getting down sucks, but the climbing and the views are great.
By Aaron S
Aug 28, 2008
|Upper pitches area ton of fun. Rock quality is better than I expected. Handren guide gives good directions. I would recommend staying roped up for the final 250' of "4th class".
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Mar 21, 2009
climbing to the top of mescalito via dark shadows makes for a really great outing. if you plan on heading up past P4, traverse right under the giant roof and belay at the bolts right on the arete, the highest & furthest right of three sets of bolts under the roof, or plan on moving the belay after finishing P4. this info is adapted from the handren guide, which we found inaccurate on some of the pitch lengths.
P5. 120', 5.7 - Follow a seam past a bolt to a roof. Continue up a widening left-trending crack, up a short chimney to an anchor on top of a huge pillar. A fun pitch.
P6. 100', 5.7 - Step across the void and climb the right side of a chimney with huecos on left wall. Go up 30' to a bolt, and continue, eventually traversing left and then continuing up to an anchor on a ledge at the base of a crack.
P7. 115', 5.7 - Climb the crack to a small ledge below a roof.
P8. 115', 5.7 - Go up the right side of the roof, through a crack to a bushy ledge. Continue to a higher ledge beneath broken cracks. Linking P7 & P8 stretched my 70m, but made for a great pitch.
P9. ~80', 5.7 - Climb the cracks to a varnished ledge with a bolt.
P10. ~150', 5.8 - Go up the right facing corner directly above the belay. Where the corner leans off to the left, climb up the face to beneath the big hueco'ed roof. Pull through the roof on good holds, and continue up the crack to beneath the top of Mescalito. I thought this was the best pitch of the route.
From the top of the route, my partner and I soloed up some 5th class terrain about 200 feet to a more exposed face to the left of the big, dark red headwall. At this point we roped back up, climbing ~70' of 5.5/6 to ~30 feet of scrambling, reaching the top.
Descent: My partner and I headed southwest along the side of Mescalito along some ridges and easily downclimbable terrain until some cairns guided us skier's right to a gully. Started off walking down the gully to find a slung tree. Rapped off this to a slung chockstone, which we rapped off to a third station. This station is best avoided, as the difficulties consist of ~15 feet of easy down-chimneying. A little more walking took us to a fourth station, a bush with long slings (our third rappel). More walking down the gully led to a steep section, with a rappel sling on the left - avoid this last rappel by walking down the ramp skier's right of the shrubbery. This puts you into ~150 feet of bushwhacking to the wash on the south side of Mescalito.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2009
Rapping with a single 60m is possible, but requires caution. As Joe Lee says, you must get atop P4 and you must use the LOWER rap anchor at the top of P4. If you go from the upper anchor you are SOL.
If you rap the first two pitches with two ropes, it is almost impossible to avoid a soaked rope. Even with one rope, it'll probably get a bit wet. Good reason to go all the way to the top!
By Aeon Jones
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I don't know which book Erik got his beta from (having read the route description on here I wish it'd been from MP) but losing the route on the 6th pitch, which took us 2 unplanned-for hours, sucked! We picked the route back up but the description Erik had printed out and carried in his pocket about the route was so bad that it was hard for us to recognize if we were on the right line or not. I think route-finding is pretty important when doing the entire DS climb. I'm not sure about where the anchors are located at the top of P6 - we found the roof, but couldn't see any bolted anchor.
All things told, however, Dark Shadows had some of the best long-route climbing I've ever done! The upper pitches are just as good as the lower pitches and the two roofs you have to pull are super friendly offering good feet and big jugs. Only thing that we hadn't planned for was the descent into Pine Creek Canyon South Fork. Lots of down-scrambling and 4 rappels bring you to the bottom. It took us nearly 3 hours.
MY RECOMMENDATION (If you're doing the whole shebang and going off Mescalito Peak on the south side): Start at 0600 when the park opens, walk to the beginning of the route with just the gear you're going to climb in, take extra water, take extra water, take extra water, (3 times, not a typo) do the climb and don't leave anything at the bottom of the climb, take extra water, bring a headlamp and enjoy the views from the big ledge with the tree - it's absolutely fabulous. Don't forget: TAKE EXTRA WATER!
By Erik Atkinson
From: Henderson, NV
Aug 18, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made copies of the route description directly from the Handren Guide which seemed to give great info until we got to the upper pitches. Like Aeon said, we had a hell of a time with pitch 6. We never saw a piton anchor, neither of us knew what the hell a "pod" was, and the only dirty gully we saw didn't appear to be part of this route at all. We never saw where to traverse left and up to any anchors, so we just built our own and kept going UP (that is the direction that we are all supposed to be going anyway, right!) The other sections of the description seemed to be fine, just pitch 6 sucked for us. Route finding is defiantly a good skill to possess and admittedly not my strong suit.
All in all, the climbing was great and beautiful. The notice earlier that the shade sets in around 11 is great if you are only climbing to pitch 4 and then rappelling off. If you plan to summit, Aeon gives solid advice to start EARLY, especially if it's your first time climbing this route. Oh and he is really not kidding about bringing extra water. I had 3 liters of water and burned through all of it by the time we hit the summit, making the decent (in the dark) and hike back to the packs and then the car quite unpleasant.
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Aug 18, 2009
Rather than rapping down one of those nasty gullies, you should consider doing the walk off:
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Sep 13, 2009
Climbed to the top, thought it was an awesome route. The routefinding seemed pretty straighfoward. I passed the belay spot on the 6th pitch and built a hanging belay about 60ft above. This allowed Mark to link the next two pitches and we ended up topping out in 8 pitches to the big tree ledge. Definately some technical climbing left to get to the top of Mescalito. We did three more short quick pitches still roped up to get to where we could scramble to the summit of Mescalito. Took about 3 hours to hike back to car(but it was raining so we moved slow)
Awesome day though!
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 1, 2009
Okay, Gigi and I summited via this route and it was awesome. Highly recommended. I posted the beta pictures for the full route, we climbed it in 11 pitches. I preserved the pitch numbering as listed in the Handren guide, but like everyone else we linked P1 and 2. So, nine pitches to the north shoulder and then two more up broken rock to the summit. And by the way, there is no mention of the final pitches being 3rd class in the Handren book - the final headwall is definitely fifth class - easy but exposed.
We climbed it Sept 29 and we were in the shade all day. We descended in the dark, down the Cat in the Hat rappels with a single rope. Do not attempt this unless you have done the Cat summit route from the ground up (I had done it twice to get it wired). The routefinding would be extremely difficult on this exposed descent if you've never done it before and using a single rope is tricky. That said, I think the Cat descent is the fastest way off the summit. Larry DeAngelo has good beta on the Cat summit route in his book "Red Rock Odyssey".
I hope that by posting the beta, more people will consider climbing the full route. But we should all do our best to retain the full-on adventure aspect of this long route. For example, I saw a lot of unecessarily chalked-up holds. Try to exhibit "leave no trace" and don't trash this route. And please don't place any more bolts.
By Bennett
From: Southern California
Jan 19, 2010
|Rapped each of first four pitches with a single 70 meter rope. Pitch 3 is a stretcher to rap, knot the ends!
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 29, 2010
Lucked out to get the route all to ourselves on a sunny Sunday afternonn. Did the first 4 pitches; took three hours to climb and descend moving at a comfortable pace. Excellent climbing all the way!
Two double rope rappels w/60m rope; 1st rap to top of P2, 2nd rap to pile of rocks and bush at left side of pool. Keep your ropes in slings as you rap helps to keep the ends dry.
In the morning, we warmed up by doing Y2K, a 4P route (which gets morning sun)just around the corner from Dark Shadows. Y2K is rated 5.10a, but other than the one-move bolt-protected crux on the 1st pitch(you can aid it if you need to), none of the other pitches had any moves harder than what you'd find on Dark Shadows. They make a nice combination for a full day of fun climbing at the grade.
By fossana
From: leeds, ut
Apr 15, 2010
Description of Pitches 5-10 for full route
addenda to Handren's description in italics
To access the upper pitches you'll need to use the anchor to the right and around the corner from the usual P4 one. There are a bolt and a pin in the seam leading up to a roof just above and to the left of the normal P4 anchors. This is not the route. Also note, that above P4 the route is more exposed to sun and wind.
Follow the seam past bolt through an easy roof. Continue up left-trending crack to top of left-hand pillar.
Step across the void and climb chimney. There is chimney to the left and an offwidth to the right. I didn't see the bolt and piton near the chimney mentioned by Handren at 30' and 60', respectively, and it's challenging to protect. As with the person before me I opted to climb the more solid varnished face to the right of the chimney, using the offwidth for pro. The only bolt I found was on a face to the right of the offwidth. You end up in the same place, the pod mentioned by Handren. Above the pod start moving up 20' and left 15' to a (now) single bolt anchor on a ledge below a crack.
Climb finger crack to flake to small ledge below roof.
Head around the right side of the roof, up crack and through a series of bushy ledges until you reach the base of twin cracks (look up and left from the first ledge).
note: I combined P7 and P8, after finding my options for gear placements fairly limited for an anchor at P7, belaying just below the first bushy ledge (we scrambled up to the actual belay later). It was difficult to communicate with J with the wind, but the rope drag wasn't too bad.
P9, 80-90' (110' per Handren), 5.7
Head up the twin cracks to a ledge with a single bolt anchor.
Two options here. Handren describes a right-facing corner. To your left there's an obvious white sandstone dihedral, leading up to a blank (appearing) slab, then to the roof. There's also a shallower, varnished, but likewise right-facing corner to your right, which leads all the way to the roof. Either works. After the roof head up to a large ledge with trees below the summit.
Summit (optional P11)
From the route top out go up and left to start. There's a series of ramps interspersed by short technical sections (up to 5.7-5.8?). We soloed this but it could be done on rope with mindful management.
Descent Notes
Only one of the anchors above P4 was rigged for a rap and only b/c someone had added webbing, but did check out the possible series of rap anchors as noted by asmrz. There were some anchors visible on neighboring routes (climber's left) but they seemed to go only part way up. Handren describes 2 summit walk-off options, noted to be less than ideal. We tried to find the top of Cat in the Hat without success. Eventually we found cairns that we thought would lead to one of the walk-offs. Instead (after some time) they took us to a series of 2 double rope rap stations that dumped us just upstream from the route.
Trip report here
By smassey
From: CO
Apr 19, 2010
Climbed the upper pitches after climbing Risky Business. After p4 of RB, traverse R on a ledge to a crack/chimney leading to the "hueco'd chimney" described in Handren. There is a chimney on the left and a hueco'd face and OW/handcrack on the right. righthand crack is easy, to a 1/4" rusty bolt, over a bulge. The "two-pin anchor" is a baby angle and a ring angle in a horizontal crack. As of 4/18, they do not have any sort of rap hardware on them, and can be hard to see if you are not looking hard. Continue up, then traverse left to a "ledge" with one bolt. A belay can be set here with good wires. It would probably be more comfy to set a belay about 15' below there on a sloping ledge with big cams, but as hanging stances go, it's not bad. Otherwise, fossana's description is great. The roof on the last pitch is perfect for the "Cliffhanger" move - grab the jugs, cut your feet, and have the belayer snap a photo.
To find the CITH descent, you need to go up. Follow occasional cairns and 3rd-easy 5th to the west until it becomes easy-ish to cut back towards the summit to the east of you. From the summit, go directly east, following the line of least resistance (cl3/4) down to a huge pine tree out on the prow. The rap anchors are slightly down and east of this, easily seen from the last tree. A 70 puts you within a few easy moves of the pine tree at the bottom. A short cl4 downclimb to the right on slightly crumbly rock takes you to ledge systems that make their way down and slightly (skiers) left to a (sometimes) cairned line-of-least-resistance route. Stay just slightly right of the vague ridge you're following, passing various pieces of tat on boulders, etc. Aim of the slabby white prow, home of the p6 anchors on CITH. Rap station to station with a 70. Best to climb CITH to the top to dial this descent, as John mentions above. Potentially more efficient in the long run to rap Peyote Power or the standard North side descent as described above, but you need a second rope, and this way is pretty scenic and quick if you know it.
By Laurel Arndt
From: Phoenix
Sep 10, 2010
|We started out with Chasing Shadows as our goal, which you are suppose to be able to rap with just one rope. But once I got under Dark Shadows, we decided to do the first four pitches of DS. We had the beta from Handren which says you can rap from the top of DS fourth pitch to the anchor at the top of Chasing Shadows third pitch so off we went. I saw the bolt line(s) while I was climbing but never saw anchors at the top of third pitch, swung over to look for them, no sighting. Good news is we had a 70m and you can rap single line from top of 4th, just watch carefully as you rap to top of 2nd pitch. With a 70 you end up about 3 feet above the anchors on a little ledge. Great Labor Day weekend climbing, no one there, no lines, us desert rats like it that way!!!
By JBroom
From: anchorage, alaska
Jan 12, 2011
|definantly take this route to the summit! the upper pitches and decent totally make the route. plenty of great beta on the earlier posts describing both. have fun! great summer rr route.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|On Saturday 3/12/2011, there was a serious leader fall to the ledge on the 3rd pitch (the long 5.8 corner). Please be careful, and place enough protection to keep from hitting the ledge. The rock can also seem slick.
By Joe Cayer
From: Mesa, Az
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'd had a " High Gravity " day on a prior attempt to climb this route before. I made it to the 2nd belay ledge and had to bail, mentally I just didn't have it that day!
Climbed Dark Shadows on Fri., May 27, 2011. Fantastic climb and we had the route to ourselves. I combined pitches 1 & 2, swung lead with my friend Dick and then I finished up on pitch 4. I'm so glad I went back to climb this one, I enjoyed the entire climb and will probably climb it again!
By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Jan 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|After 10 days at Red Rocks this was my favorite.
By Apuyr Lane
Jun 12, 2012
|Emily and Rob, We accidently walked off with your rope bag today 6-12-12 after sharing Dark Shadows with you. One of my partners thought it was mine as I have the same bag. With wet ropes, we didn't use bags for the trek out. We apologize! Please post a mailing address or send to my e-mail and I will send it back immediately! Did not post to forums because I thought you would look here first.
By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
Linked first two pitches. P3 was awesome! You can sew it up (and I did), mostly with nuts. To the poster who said he needed double cams to get up the pitch....I brought a double rack to 2" with a 3", only to get to the end of P3 and find I had more than an entire single rack of cams still hanging off my harness. Good weight training, I guess.
For the first 4 pitches, single rack .3 to 3" with a full set of nuts (4-12 BD) and a few tri-cams (pink, blue, red) and I had gear to spare.
Rope got a little wet on the way down.
Good climb, but COLD back there.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Mar 11, 2013
|Topped out on Mescalito in 12 roped pitches...ran 1 & 2,3 & 4 together rock up high is different but awesome in a different way. Descended CIH with 1 70m barely !
By Nate Flink
From: Minneapolis, MN
Mar 30, 2013
|Superb route! Crowded. Easy to rap from top of 4th pitch from LOWER anchors with 60m rope. At least 3 sets of bolts at top of pitch 4, used the lowest ones I could see. Rap to intermittent anchor from Chasing Shadows, then to pitch 2, pitch 1, then ground.
By Phil Esra
Apr 4, 2013
|Tied with Clyde Minaret and Braille Book as my all-time favorite 5.8s.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Apr 12, 2013
|Possible to rap from top of P4 with a 70 in three raps, if comfortable with finishing via easy downclimbing. First rap down to Chasing Shadows anchor, then to Dark Shadows P2 anchor, and from there down to the easy face just below P1 first bolt. Second the comment about clipping that first bolt and using that to keep rope dry when pulling. Linkable P1 and P2. Amazing P3 and P4.
By steple
May 2, 2013
|I would like to suggest to the administrators to update the route description to 8 pitches and to include fossana's description of the upper pitches.
By Royal
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jun 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|The upper pitches are most definitely not in the shade in late June. I just climbed the complete route two days ago and we got cooked. Plus, the descent is kinda a pain in the dark especially when you have a slow and scared partner.
By Jared Wicks
From: Las Vegas
Aug 4, 2013
Great route. Climbed this today and we had the wall to ourselves thanks to the 100+ degree temps in the valley. Climbed the first four pitches and rapped down the face. We brought along a 70m and barely had any rope left over on the first rappel to the top of the neighboring route. A 60m would be sketchy and I'm not even sure it would make it. We were able to get down from there with 2 more rappels thought we had to down climb a few feet on the last rappel.
This route definitely deserves it's Classic status. Amazing rock with great pro.
As for the sun... the route was in the shade by 9. Perfect climb for hot days.
By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Got ropes stuck twice, give your ropes a quick hard pull when pulling ropes!
By DannyUncanny
From: Vancouver
Feb 16, 2014
|Pulled a #1 camalot out of pitch 3. If you want to get down without getting your rope wet in the stream, the trick is to bridge the gap between the boulder and the wall, leaning left, and the rope will fall right on your head.
By Nick Nystrom
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Mar 23, 2014
|On the final raps from Dark Shadows, a 70m rope just makes it (with rope stretch, using a 70m rope with 9.5% static elongation) from the rap anchor at the top of pitch 2, ending on the gravel bar downstream of the pool. Stationing one person at the downstream edge of the pool and pulling hard from the left should allow the rope to stay dry.
By Dan Birman
From: Berlin, Germany
Mar 30, 2014
Couldn't find any decent descent info for topping out and going down cat in the hat, here it is:
From the tree ledge head up the red headwall. We started on the left side at a hand crack in a corner and soloed about 150' up, trending right, to a "mushroom" shaped block. Cross back left 20' and head straight up (rope up, 5.4R/X) to large blocks near the summit. Turn left towards magic mountain and scramble down, a 190' rappel from bolts near a tree puts you on a col, follow this towards magic mountain and scramble ~400' down easy rock with a few 5th class moves to the pinkish buttress that sticks out, rap cat in the hat. ~2 hours from the tree ledge to the ground.
By John Ryan
From: Poncha Springs, CO
Apr 1, 2014
|This is a very striking route with excellent gear in a beautiful setting. The first two pitches are easily combined to reach the large belay ledge at the end of pitch 2. Pitch 3 is a straight forward dihedral crack with tons of varied protection options. Pitch 3 belay station is a nice ledge big enough for 3 people. Pitch 4 is weird but fun, with great exposure. We rapped on a 70 m and 60 m from the upper anchors on top of Pitch 4 to the ledge at the top of Pitch 2 without difficulty. We saw many fixed pieces, most of them the small size Link Cams on pitches 2 and 3.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Climbed this route on the afternoon of 3/30/14 with JV. Expected crowds due to RR Rendezous but found only one other party ahead of us. It was windy and cold enough to keep the synthetic down jacket on during the entire climb. First two pitches were awkward and uninspiring. Finger crack corner on P2 was especially awkward. Pitches 3 & 4 were fantastic. Crux on P3 was the off-width section near the start; great stemming after that. Three rappels from top of P4 using a single 70m rope. Got about 20' of rope wet pulling on final rappel.
By Ellen.tradgirl
Apr 23, 2014
|Do this route to the summit, it is fantastic. You need to go to the actual summit to descend.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 28, 2014
What a climb! Only did the first four pitches, but it was amazing. P3 is one of the best pitches of climbing I've done anywhere. So nice.
One note - Handren calls P2 5.6. If this pitch is 5.6, I must have missed a LOT of holds. Slick rock with small holds, but no need to lieback anything. I was a little spooked on toprope! Ha!
By Steve123
May 11, 2014
|At the top of pitch 4 there are three sets of bolted anchors, a set immediately at the top of the pitch, and also a lower and upper set about 20 feet to the right. If you rappel from the upper set of anchors to the right, a single 70-meter rope will reach the Chasing Shadows anchors, but just barely. Knot the ends of the rope. Note, the Chasing Shadows anchors are just around a corner, and cannot be seen from Dark Shadows. From here you can rappel to the top of pitch 2, then 1, then the ground with a single 70-meter rope.
By RitwikB
Jun 3, 2014
Climbed end of April 2014.
Going to the top:
Aaron M 's beta is great - had no problem following it.
Descent beta:
We followed the photo in redrocksguidebook.com/forum/vi... . Take a full page print out of the photo. As you get higher, the terrain shown in the photo becomes quite clear.
0. From the huge ledge system at the top of Dark Shadows, some mandatory 5th class is required to get up the head-wall above.
1. *From the top*, head up-canyon/follow cairns (climber's right). Take care not to follow cairns back to the huge ledge system mentioned above. At a 20-30ft chimmney - either rap from a small tree (we did) or down-climb the chimmney. This puts you within 50ft of the N. Fork (Dark Shadows side) vs S. Fork (Cat in the Hat side) decision point. We took the N. Fork descent i.e. did not cross the saddle.
2. Follow path of least resistance to skiers left, staying high-ish. Aim for the slabs/bowl in the photo. When you get cliffed out at the bottom on the slabs, look to skiers right, the first tree-d gully you see is where you want to be - maybe ~ 100ft uphill. About 20mins travel time to get here for first timers.
3. 3 raps down a huge chimmney system - at first look, the reaction is "what, me go down this way?" The slings were quite ratty , we left most of a cordallete and 3-4 biners.
(a) Rap-1: Slings around tree or if you missed the tree (we did not see it initially), tunnel under some boulders down the gully and rap off a sandy suitcase handle.
(b) Rap-2: Slings wrapped around chockstone. Rap with your ropes (ie do not drop them into the maw below) if you can. Keep rapping past the first ledge to the second one 10ft below - this will likely be a 2 rope rap.
(c) Rap-3: Rap to the ground. Likely a 2 rope rap.
4. From here, it took us ~ 45mins-1hour to get to the base of dark shadows - in the dark, 2 headlamps for party of 3. And then 45mins - 1 hour to hike out.
Now for the request (or why I didn't have my headlamp with me): I left my hydration pack (w wind-breaker and headlamp)at the first rap, if anyone takes this descent, finds my gear and feels like returning it, that would be awesome.
It was a good adventure,highly recommend going to the top.
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 24, 2014
+1 for rapping with a single 70m. I think a single 60m would work, too. Definitely don't bring two ropes if you have a 70! From the anchors at the top of p4, lower to rap anchors that are ten feet down and 15 feet climber's right (easily visible). Rap straight down and about five feet right to anchors on Chasing Shadows---just follow the bolt line down. Then rap to top of DS p2, then to p1 then the ground. As mentioned, you could rap straight to the ground from atop p2...might have to downclimb a few feet...or swim!
Single set from 00-2. Used a #3 but wouldn't bring it next time. P3 eats good nuts. Hard to keep the rope dry pulling it to the ground. Good beta above for this.
By jessy
From: las Vegas, nv
Feb 15, 2015
70 was cutting it close on the rap from 3 to 2, I wouldnt try it with a chopped 70, let alone a 60.
rap beta with a 70 from pitch 4:
rap to pitch 3 anchors
rap to pitch 2 anchors
rap to ground
This route was awesome! Linked pitches 1 and 2 on the way up and on the way down. 3rd pitch was long and my favorite. 4th pitch was also very nice. Good 4 pitches for a half day of climbing.
By Manderson198
Mar 19, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbed this with Garrett on 5 February. We climbed the first four pitches and then rappelled. A couple of notes:
We followed the Handren pitches, but it would have been much faster and quicker to link the first two.
If rapping after the fourth pitch, belay from the lower set of anchors under the roof. We had a single 60m, rapped from the top set, and just barely reached the next anchors. Tie knots!
By tomW
Mar 31, 2015
|We bailed on this route on 3/26/15 when it became too dark to see. I left two nuts, a double length sling, and four non-locking carabiners on the route. I'll gladly pay for shipping if anyone feels like returning them :)
By Royal
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Apr 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I received this descent beta from a friend of a friend. It's good. As far as I know it's the safest non technical means of descent off mescalito. I'd think twice about attempting it in the dark. It worked for me.
From whatever route you've topped out, head up to the true summit. From here, continue west along the ridge into a slight saddle (generally cairned). Somewhere in the vicinity of this saddle is a very obvious cairned descent gully. If you head down here it's somewhat moderate downclimbing and 3 or 4 sketchy rappels (if memory serves).
To avoid the technical option, continue past this gulley through some bushes and you'll discover a few more cairns. These lead to the next small summit on the ridge to the west. Don't go down any gulleys along the way.
From this summit, drop off its southern shoulder and stay high on the shoulder of the ridge angling slightly down along a ledge system the entire way. This section of wide ledges is exposed but not challenging. Eventually this leads you to the very back of the wash.
At this point you basically make a u-turn off the ledges and into the wash heading back east. Follow the wash out to the trail and then to the car.
Summit to car time is about 2.5 hours.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Apr 8, 2015
|absolutely loved this climb. Seemed like there was holds in all the right places!
By Countzen Shin
From: Santa Monica, CA
Apr 20, 2015
I hate getting lost on the approach and wasting time... and I did. So here's something to save you time.
By Steven Reneau
May 9, 2015
|The p3 crack was a definite rope eater for our 8.5 mm doubles. After rapping from p3 anchors and pulling the ropes, I had to reclimb the route to free one that was tightly wedged. Then despite giving the rope a sharp pull away from the crack the next time, the end still dropped back to the same place (but not so deep, and it came out with a good tug).
By Dan Mathews
Oct 19, 2015
Single 60m rope descent info. Four rappels. The first two raps do not follow the climb. This is necessary because pitch 3 is 120 feet and a rappel with a single 60m will not come close to reaching the anchor at the top of pitch 2. At the top of pitch 4 use the bolted belay about 15-20 feet right of the pitch 4 crack.(There is another bolted belay straight up from the pitch 4 crack. Don't use that one.)
Rap #1 - From the top of pitch 4 rappel to a hanging, bolted belay that is on the face to the right of pitch 3. Rap #2 - Rappel to the top of pitch 2. #3 - Rappel to top of pitch 1. #4 - Rappel to ground.
NOTE: You CANNOT rap pitch 3 with a single 60 m rope.
By TomC
May 2, 2016
Awesome climb, but p3 is full of fixed cams to the extent that it's pretty ugly. If someone can figure out a way to extract them that would be great.
Don't overcam, people!
By Jon P
From: Duluth, MN
Sep 19, 2016
Just +1 some above comments:
-Some cams are cool (small-3") but nuts slot in where cams won't here so bring a mix. Lots of the crack is flair. Plenty of pro but double cam rack unnecessary.
-If you have a single 60m rope you need to rap from lower set of anchors atop 4th pitch (obvious when up there). You will not make it from the upper set... I promise you don't want to test your luck here.
-It gets a lot of traffic so start early or late. The sweet spot between 9am-noon will probably have a queue.
-Fun an worth doing on a sunny and hot day. Beautiful Pine Creek is a great place to hang out while waiting for the other parties =)
By Bryan Hermannsson
Dec 15, 2016
Really epic, amazing, well protected, bolted anchor climb. The 200 ft repel is pretty epic. String together the 1st and 2nd pitch to speed things up.
Here's a recent video of someone soloing the 3rd pitch. :-0
By Jordan Perlmutter
Mar 27, 2017
the party in front of us tried to rap with one 60m and got into some trouble. At the top of pitch 4 there are two sets of anchors: one set 20 ft to the right of the crack, and one set right below the roof above the crack--use the ones on the right!! with a single 60 the higher rings will come up short of the hanging belay directly below!!
Best to use 2 60s or a 70 to rap this one, though one 60 could probably work in a pinch. with one 60: rap from top of 4 to intermediate hanging belay directly below, then to the top of 2, then to top of 1, then to ground, so 4 raps total. Not recommended.
By DavidTighe
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Apr 5, 2017
|We rapped on a single 70m from the top of P4. P4 anchor->Chasing Shadows anchor -> P1 anchor -> ground. Unforunately the 70m didn't quite reach the P1 anchor from the chasing shadows anchor so an easy ~5ft downclimb was required. Probably should have rapped to the P2 anchor but it was busy there.


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So what do you do with the lulav and etrog once the Sukkot holiday has come to a close?
Dear Miriam,
What do you do with the lulav and etrog after the holiday of Sukkot is over?
Leftover Lulav
Dear Leftover,
First off, I know I said no more holiday questions for a while, but since you posted this question on Facebook directly in response to my Sex in the Sukkah column last week, I thought it was only fair to follow through and answer it. It's a great question, in part because it has traditional, creative and practical answers. After a long month of holidays spinning me in a thousand different directions, I'm greatly assisted by the opportunity to answer this through a neat categorization process.
Traditional: Usually I recommend articles on myjewishlearning.com because of their straightforwardness, but today, I'm recommending an article about the tradition of beating the willows on Hoshanah Rabbah because it is complex and nuanced and totally fascinating. Basically, on the final day of Sukkot, there's an obscure and, dare I say, totally weird tradition to beat the willow branches that have been part of the lulav. This article speculates that one of the reasons for the tradition is to, "signify the end of the festival and to render its main implement pasul [ritually unfit]." The article goes on to quote the Mishnah: "Immediately [following the beating of the willows] the children loosened the lulavim and ate their etrogim."
Another article (thanks, Aish HaTorah!) talks about the idea of "mitzvah recycling," where an object that was once part of a mitzvah can be used for a future mitzvah. One such application of the lulav is to burn it along with the chametz (leavened food) during Passover cleaning. (I've also heard that the lulav can be used in place of a feather for the chametz search, though I can't verify that one.) The etrog can be studded with cloves and used for the smelling of spices during havdalah. The most important thing I got from this article was not to throw away the used ritual items in a dirty or disrespectful place. Some people even bury them in a geniza as you would do with torn prayer books.
Creative: One of the best things about my last post was that it generated a huge discussion on my personal Facebook page, not about sex, surprisingly enough, but actually about this question instead. I let everyone know that their posts implied tacit approval to be quoted, so here goes. Naomi suggests some of the above related to mitzvah recycling and also says, like the Mishnah, that some people "manage to eat the etrog," but that she's "never found it palatable." Aileen plans to try out etrog-infused vodka as well as marmalade. She also notes that etrog was recently a secret ingredient on the Food Network show Chopped, and no one knew what to do with it, regardless of whether or not they found it palatable! Josh then points out that since an etrog isn't sold as food, it's not regulated by the FDA, so eating it is questionably advised. He also says, "Feel free to quote me, but I can't confirm my information," to which I reply, "My advice column loooves unverified information." Then, on that note, Deborah commented that eating an etrog used to be considered an omen for fertility, so in poor communities with only one or two of the fruits, women would fight each other for them. I'll add to the mix that a friend of mine planted etrog seeds in middle school, and her family's living room housed quite a large etrog tree by the time she was in college. I'll also add that quoting this Facebook discussion feels a lot like quoting Talmudic rabbinic discussions.
Practical: You may just have to get rid of it. Do so in a respectful way, as noted above, but don't feel like you need to add to the clutter in your house (if, you know, you're one of those people who has clutter or is otherwise human) by holding onto it until Pesach, or until you can bury it or even until next Shabbat. You've celebrated Sukkot, you've used the lulav and etrog for their intended ritual purpose and now, whether you beat the willows or not, it's ok to move on.
On that note, it's time for me and this column and our entire full-work-week-deprived community to move on beyond the holidays!
L'chaim (said over an imaginary glass of etrog-infused vodka), and be well,


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October 5, 2012, 06:14 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: October 5, 2012
Posts: 4
Should I?
Hello all ,
Brand new here but need advise on buying my first press which I think I have in my sights.
My story. Went to the range to sight in and all was fine at 100 and 200 yds. Then I needed a new box of ammo. . All of a sudden I was 2 inches low and the same to the right with 8 rounds in a 1 inch pattern. . Looked at my buddy and he said. " That's why I reload. So I get it now. If I make x amount a yr sight it in and I'm good for a while. Come time to make more I need to re-sight in. I don't mind at all.
Here's my general plan to start. I'm thinking a single stage press is fine. I have no ambitions to turn out hundreds of rounds a hr. Take my time, learn from my friend do 1 thing at a time do it well and move on.
I deer hunt. and use a .270. . I want to load ( at this point) 100-150 rounds a yr. That's all that I will use. I am looking for better accuracy than store bought ammo. I get to hunt seldom so my shots need to count.
Here's what im looking at. Rock crusher small press,
some AR mags .. brass of all sorts.. 1200 Primers... Dies for 270. 30.06... 9mm and .45
6 1 lb cans of powder. De capping tool for Military brass. bullet puller. Molds for a few different rounds. 200.00
Seems a deal to me to get started. But what do you with more experience think?
Thanks in advance for any and all info.
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The Sons of AMVETS Squad 88, will hold its annual Wreaths Across America ceremony at Rosemary Cemetery in Bronson on Saturday, Dec. 15 at noon.
Hundreds turned out Monday to celebrate Veterans Day as the city of Williston hosted this year's annual Levy County tribute to members of our nation's Armed Forces.
More than 80 veterans and veteran spouses showed up at the Tommy Usher Pineland Center Friday, Nov. 9, for a luncheon in their honor hosted by Hiers-Baxley Funeral Homes.
Veterans in the Tri-County Area will be honored for their service at a free luncheon at Usher Community Center on Friday, Nov. 9, that will be hosted by Hiers-Baxley Funeral Services.
The annual event is free to veterans. The guest speaker is retired Lt. Cmdr Elden H. Luffman, a former military chaplain and World War II veteran. He also is the author of "Bringing God To War."
Seating is limited so veterans are asked to RSVP by Monday, Nov. 5 to Pam Leaptrot at 352-493-0050.
Army Spec 4 Michael S. Osteen of Gulf Hammock went to Vietnam on Aug. 23, 1967. On May 5, 1968, at the age of 22 he was killed by hostile artillery fire in Pleiku Province in South Vietnam. He was one of eight — and some accounts say as many as 19 — U.S. soldiers who died that day when they were ambushed on Highway 14 about 8 miles from Kontum City while escorting a convoy. He was a member of the 4th Military Police Company, 4th Infantry Division.
Troy Chancey knows there's no place like home.
After a year of being shot at and interrogating enemy combatants in Afghanistan, the 22-year-old Army specialist admits being back in the relatively slow pace of Chiefland is a little strange. But life in the states is something he looks forward to getting used to again.
"I wanna' do a lot of the things I missed out on," Chancey said Friday from the home of his grandparents Janice and Buster.
By Kay Louder
Social Security District Manager, Gainesville
In April, Social Security announced 52 new Compassionate Allowances conditions to the growing list of severe medical conditions that qualify for expedited medical decisions. The new conditions include many neurological disorders, cancers, and rare diseases.
William Ferguson Caldwell died 19 years ago. He was a U.S. Army WWII veteran who fought at Normandy and the Battle of the Bulge. He was a father, and the husband of Dorothy Caldwell.
More than a decade before his death, according to his wife, he did a stint at Malcolm Randall VA Medical Center, in Gainesville.
"He was there for a while," Caldwell said. "I said (to him), 'When you get out of here, we're gonna' volunteer."
That was 29 years ago, and Caldwell, 91, of Cross City, hasn't stopped volunteering yet.
Candidates have ample time to get ready for the big political rally July 20 sponsored by the Veterans of Foreign Wars Post 5625 and its Ladies Auxiliary in Chiefland. The event is open to the public.
Everyone should bring an appetite as there is a dinner beforehand and a dessert auction following the forum.
The rally at 7 p.m., in the Post's smoke-free meeting room, will allow each candidate three minutes to speak to the public.
Before the jawboning starts, the post will host a country fried dinner with sides from 5 to 7 p.m. for a donation.
Copyright © 2017
The Chiefland Citizen is your source for local news, sports, events, and information in Levy County and Chiefland Florida, and the surrounding area.


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UPLAND — The Drug Enforcement Administration on Monday raided G3 Holistic Inc., a medical marijuana dispensary that has had been in an almost constant struggle with city and federal officials in recent years.
Here's a rundown of some of the notable rulings as well as actions from past few years:
November: G3 Holistic opens at 1710 W. Foothill Blvd. in Upland.
August: G3 closed due to injunction granted by West Valley Superior Court in Rancho Cucamonga on behalf of Upland. The city's zoning ordinance bans medical marijuana dispensaries.
September: G3 appeals injunction in Fourth District Court of Appeals in Riverside.
February: G3 files claim with city accusing former Mayor John Pomierski of extortion. According to the allegation, Pomierski tried to extort money from G3 President Aaron Sandusky in exchange for allowing G3 to operate.
March 2: Pomierski indicted on federal extortion charges. He is accused of extorting money from two Upland businesses, Chronic Cantina and quite possibly G3.
June 20: Court of Appeals grants stay on the injunction until G3's case is heard in court.
July 3: G3 reopens.
Nov. 1: G3 is raided by the DEA and then closes because of the confiscation of its medical marijuana and payroll.
Nov. 2: Arguments regarding G3 heard in Court of Appeals.
Nov. 9: Court of Appeals rules in favor of city's injunction based on zoning ordinance that bans dispensaries.
Dec. 12: G3 attorneys files appeal with state Supreme Court.
Dec. 30: G3 reopens under the interpretation that the stay granted by the Court of Appeals is in effect since Sandusky is appealing through the state Supreme Court.
Jan. 6: Upland officials takes G3 to West Valley Superior Court on an ex parte hearing to determine whether they can remain open per the Court of Appeals' stay. Judge Barry Plotkin decides to further review his jurisdiction and the Court of Appeals' stay.
Jan. 9: Upland files motion with Court of Appeals to dissolve the stay granted in June.
Jan. 10: G3 attorney sends letter to Court of Appeals.
Jan. 17: Court of Appeals returned city's motion to dissolve the stay.
Jan. 18 : State Supreme Court grants review of the appeal.
Jan. 19: G3 and the city return to West Valley Superior Court. Judge Barry Plotkin rules in favor of G3 because the case was taken by the state Supreme Court.
March 12: Drug Enforcement Administration agents raid G3 in Upland and seize medical marijuana.


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An air ambulance crew and staff from North Wilts Golf Club at Bishops Cannings battled to save the life of former RAF officer Ron Wood when he collapsed while playing golf on Monday.
Mr Wood, 84, who is a past captain of the golf club, died, despite their best efforts, after a suspected heart attack. Club secretary Trish Stephenson paid tribute to the old-school gentleman who had been a member of the club since 1977 and was captain in 1992.
She said: "He was always cheery and ready with a compliment. He was a true gentleman.
"Although in recent years his golfing handicap had gone up to 18 he still enjoyed competing and his regular 18 holes."
The alarm was raised on Monday morning by a playing partner when Mr Wood collapsed while playing the 15th hole.
Mrs Stephenson said: "We took the call in the office and three of us immediately went down there with a defibrillator but there was nothing us or the air ambulance crew could do.
"I would like to thank the paramedics and our staff for everything they did.
"It was obviously very upsetting for us as we have known him for such a long time.
"The only consolation is that he died doing something he loved at a club that he loved."
Mr Wood is believed to have come to Wiltshire when he was based at RAF Lyneham and settled in Cherhill, near Calne. He leaves a widow and two grown-up children.


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Category: baby names predicitons
Scanning the popularity charts of some of the current most popular and stylish baby names (yeah, that's how I spend my spare time), I noticed something fascinating the other day. Many of them – Ava, Ella, Peyton, Aiden, Emmett, even number one Isabella – were at the very bottom of the Top 1000 in 1990.
That means that they were rarely used when the parents of today – most popularly named Jennifer and Melissa, Christopher and Jason – were born, but were starting to rise up the charts by the time Jennifer was drawing hearts around Jason's name in her Geometry notebook.
By that theory (who says baby name trends prediction isn't a science?), we should be able to predict which names will be most popular 20 years from now by combing the bottom of today's Top 1000.
Of course, not every name down in the 800s and 900s is destined for baby name greatness. But we see the following as likely popular choices for your grandchildren.


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One way to discern whether or not a stock is undervalued is by looking at its Graham Number. Named for pioneer investor Benjamin Graham, the Graham Number is calculated by taking the square root of a company's Earnings per Share (EPS) and Book Value per Share (BVPS) multiplied by 22.5. Any stock whose listed price is below its Graham Number might be said to be undervalued.
[Read more from Kapitall: Booms, Busts, Bankruptcies: What Detroit Means for the Markets]
Earnings per share is one of the most important variables that affects share price. It is determined by looking at net income divided by the number of shares a company sells, and is one of the most basic indicators of a company's profitability. A company's BVPS is a per share estimate of the company's equity.
Investors should keep in mind the Graham Number is a very conservative way of looking at stocks; it will not apply to companies that are leveraged and it doesn't take the magnitude of a company's growth into consideration. A final liability of the Graham Number is that it does not always apply to larger cap stocks - which may already exceed their Graham Number but are still reliable investments. That being said, it is a good indicator of what the upper bound of a stock's price range will be, and a good way to screen for the potential risk associated with low-cap stocks. Value investors often seek out companies that combine a low Graham Number with a record of strong financials and growth. This can even include reputable companies who have just posted losses, unveiled disastrous new products, or corroborated rumored scandals.
To create the list below, we ran a screen for undervalued stocks trading at prices substantially lower than their Graham Number, in this case by at least 38%.
The List
Dig Deeper: Compare analyst ratings to annual returns for stocks mentioned
Click on the image below for ratings over time. Analyst ratings sourced from Zacks Investment Research.Are these stocks undervalued, or are these companies in trouble? Use the list below to begin your own analysis.


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Get ready for a time when computers know our world - and our future - better than we do.
One of my favourite Isaac Asmiov stories, Franchise, imagines an election in which computing is sufficiently advanced for the preferences of an entire country to be predicted on the basis of just one voter's actions.
We're not quite at that stage yet. But we may be on the right path. For perhaps the greatest geek triumph of the 2012 presidential elections was the unlikely figure of statistician Nate Silver, whose FiveThirtyEight blog – which algorithmically assessed hundreds of polls based on their historical accuracy – managed to successfully predict the result in 50 out of 50 states.
His analysis – like every political story – divides opinion. To my mind, though, his work shines a light on a bigger story about our future relationship with technology, and in particular on a vision of progress where there's an increasingly clear divide between those endeavours that can safely be left to humans, and those where machines and mathematics are preferable.
It's something that is already happening. From automated explorations of Mars, the use of unmanned drone aircraft for reconnaissance and remote assassination, to the analysis of probabilities and prediction. We do what we're best at, and leave the rest to the machines. Some things have ever been thus, but never has the story of human enhancement been quite so closely entwined with the story of human redundancy.
In Silver's case, the people who may face immediate redundancy are those professional political pundits whose speculations saturate the media at election time – or at least replacement by suitably ideologically varied Silver-like figures next time around. In the longer term, though, the wholesale replacement of speculation with massively data-led science may be in order – not to mention the transformation of what it means to plan as well as to predict a political campaign.
The Obama team's massive level of behind-the-scenes data crunching is well known: "we ran the election 66,000 times every night", as a senior official put it to Time magazine, describing their simulation of swing state votes. What's less knowable but far more important, though, is just how much of a role this played in shaping victory.
Crunching 'souls'
It is not just in the world of politics that so-called "big data" is having a disruptive effect, of course. Increasingly these mathematical models, backed by terabytes of data, are being used to help with everything from predicting hurricanes and diagnosing disease to spotting economic trends and modelling human behaviour.
All of which is beginning to fulfil a long-established vision of what happens when sufficiently sizeable numbers and computing power meet humanity. Companies like Google have long reckoned that there's more to the pursuit of computational truth than wishful thinking, with ongoing research busy demonstrating that computers can drive cars more competently than us, can work out what people are thinking without them going to the bother of typing, and deliver ever-more-targeted products and services.
For some, the victory of logic over punditry is a small step in an important direction towards better understanding what it means to understand ourselves. As the web-comic xkcd pithily put it the day after the US election results, "breaking: to surprise of pundits, numbers continue to be best system for determining which of two things is larger."
At stake, though, are metaphysical as well as mathematical issues; something that – inevitably – leaves some commentators feeling uncomfortable with equations' capacity for more competently measuring the world than us. "The soul," US Conservative author Jonah Goldberg argued in the Chicago Tribune, "is not so easily number-crunched".
Most technologists have little truck with words like "soul", let alone with the notion of something that can't be computed. Yet in a recent essay for Aeon magazine, looking at the history and the future of human enhancement, the author Steven Poole argued that an "undercurrent of misanthropy" paradoxically lurks within many dreams of improving humanity through technology, "hinting – or even hoping – that one day we could be replaced by our own machines."
Wanting to be better, and to know ourselves and our world better, is one thing. But, if we begin to gain a sufficient understanding of ourselves and our future, do we also become obliged to try to alter it – and us? And if so, what model will tell us precisely what "better" looks like?
Philip K Dick posed an extreme example of this thinking in his 1956 story The Minority Report (later reworked as a Tom Cruise film), where a special police unit arrests murderers before they commit their crimes. This kind of predictive analysis will likely remain in the realms of science fiction, but the exponential growth of technology and data presents us with ever a practical version of Dick's central question: given a certain level of information about our futures, how far and how fast are we obliged to intervene? Or, if we happen to be conducting a presidential campaign, how decisively can we remould this future on everyone else's behalf?
In its way, Asimov's short story about voting is every bit as dystopian as Dick's. It concludes on a rousing note of patriotism from its protagonist, Norman Muller – his country's one and only voter. "In this imperfect world, the sovereign citizens of the first and greatest Electronic Democracy had... through him!... exercised once again its free, untrammelled franchise."
Electronic Democracy is, in this case, an oxymoron: the point at which modelling has entirely supplanted the reality it purports to represent. A society like this remains pure science fiction. From a certain angle, though, the gleeful advance of predictive and persuasive science can seem like a sincere effort to build it.
Do you agree with Tom? If you would like to comment on this article or anything else you have seen on Future, head over to our Facebook page or message us on Twitter.


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J Del Pozo Ambar Perfume
By Jesus Del Pozo for Women
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text: +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | TPWD News Release 20100507b | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | This page contains only plain text, no HTML formatting codes. | | It is not designed for display in a browser but for copying | | and editing in whatever software you use to lay out pages. | | To copy the text into an editing program: | | --Display this page in your browser. | | --Select all. | | --Copy. | | --Paste in a document in your editing program. | | If you have any suggestions for improving these pages, send | | an e-mail to email@example.com and mention Plain Text Pages. | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ [ Note: This item is more than seven years old. Please take the publication date into consideration for any date references. ] [ Media Contact: TPWD News, firstname.lastname@example.com, 512-389-8030 ] [ Additional Contacts: Rob McCorkle, TPWD, (830) 866-3533 or firstname.lastname@example.com Scott Stover (512) 389-4849 or firstname.lastname@example.com ] May 7, 2010 Visitor-Pleasing Upgrades Accelerating at Huntsville State Park HUNTSVILLE -- For years it was a hard-luck entry in the Texas State Park system, but once it opened for good, Huntsville State Park quickly attained major attraction status. Originally constructed in the 1930s by African-American Company 1823 of the Civilian Conservation Corps, the park was still being developed in 1940 when a heavy flood collapsed a dam and flooded the park, causing extensive and costly damage. The park did not open until 1956. That's ancient history to the 177,000 visitors who enjoyed this large, richly-wooded park last year. Bigger crowds are anticipated in the future, from out-of-state overnight campers and day use guests from the sprawling Houston metropolitan area, just 70 miles away. Texas Parks and Wildlife has responded with many recent updates to Huntsville State Park, and will continue the improvements this summer with several important upgrades. Thanks to bond funding authorized by the Texas Legislature and approved by statewide voters, TPWD will connect the park to the city of Huntsville's water and wastewater systems, improving the park's water quality. At the same time, work crews are adding two new camping area restrooms and upgrading two others -- the park headquarters and nature center -- to comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act. "In addition to making the new restrooms ADA-compliant, we are adding more toilets and showers to accommodate the increased visitation from park users." says project manager Thea Luong. "The facilities will be larger and more accommodating." Construction crews are steadily working their way through the park adding new restrooms and making other improvements. "Two years ago we replaced restrooms at our swim beach and two campgrounds," says Park Superintendent Chris Holm. "Now, new restrooms are being added to two more camp loops." The approximately $3 million in new and renovated restrooms and the new wastewater connections at Huntsville add another checkmark to a long list of major Texas State Parks rejuvenation projects underway this year, all aimed at keeping the parks fun, safe and customer friendly. Texas State Parks general obligation bonds have been sold to fund more than $44 million in repairs and renovations to park cabins, bathrooms, electrical and water systems, and other state park infrastructure. Along with fixing up more than 40 state parks, the bonds provide an additional $25 million to dry berth the Battleship Texas. Along with fixing up more than 40 state parks, the bonds provide an additional $25 million to dry berth the Battleship Texas, taking the proud veteran of two World Wars out of the corrosive water of the Houston Ship Channel. While the connection to Huntsville's municipal water and wastewater will be a plus for visitors, they will probably never be aware of it. "The majority of work on this will be outside the park," says project manager David Frank. "The work inside the park will not affect the park's function, so there won't be any adverse impact on visitation. In most cases, the people in the park will not know this is going on, because it will be in an area where they don't go." There are a lot of other places visitors do go in the 2,083-acre park because there is so much to do. "We have most of the things people look for in outdoor recreation," Holm says. "Camping, boating -- it's a no-wake lake -- fishing, hiking, picnicking, a big day use area with a swim beach. We rent canoes and paddle boats; pretty much whatever you want to do in a park." The park, just seven miles from Huntsville, is bordered by Sam Houston National Forest on the north and east. It is dense with the thick piney woods of East Texas, with loblolly and shortleaf pines dominating. To better enjoy the trees, the park has 19 miles of hike and mountain bike trails. Lake Raven -- named for Texas hero Sam Houston's Native American name, The Raven -- offers 210 acres for boating, fishing or swimming (in a designated area). The park has small boat rentals and two fishing piers. "The fishing is actually one of the better kept secrets of the state," Holm says. "They stocked some ShareLunker bass in here about three years ago. They're getting fairly large and doing well. We've got crappie and catfish as well." In a separately funded project, TPWD is currently upgrading the park's 157 camping sites and 30 screen shelters. All sites that currently have electricity are upgrading to 30-amp and 50-amp pedestals -- the increased power needed by most new RVs. Thirty water-only sites will have electricity added. Already 25 sites in the Raven Hill loop have been upgraded for electricity, water and sewer service. Holm says the electrical upgrades will be a boon to the park and area by bringing in -- and keeping longer -- many more Winter Texans, whose big rigs require full hook ups. "We haven't been able to get them without sewer and 50-amp service. They couldn't run their air conditioner and microwave at the same time. Now they can run it all and with the sewer service they can stay at their site a full two weeks. Huntsville State Park has overcome ancient bad luck by making itself into an increasingly appealing destination for locals and out-of-towners alike. Watch the official Huntsville State Park video on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39L4SwFU-XQ or more information, call the park at 936/295-5644, or visit the website: http://tpwd.texas.gov/spdest/findadest/parks/huntsville. -30-


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Milestone for Yuan Marks Rise of China
Yuan Rises to Ninth-Most-Actively-Traded Currency Globally
China for the first time joined the ranks of the most-traded international currencies, underscoring the rise of the world's second-largest economy and the growth of the global foreign-exchange market.
The Chinese yuan vaulted to ninth in the Bank for International Settlements' latest report on foreign-exchange turnover, surpassing the Swedish krona and New Zealand dollar, among other widely used currencies.
Trading in the...


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Superbowl Snack Throwdown – Week 5
This weekend, I'm visiting my family in the midwest. So while my sister, B, and I were watching the low-speed chase in Texas on TV, we decided to review the recipes for Highlowaha's Super Bowl Snack Throwdown. And that means it's time to check out the recipes from Kate and Lauren. This week's secret ingredient is sour cream! As a reminder, recipes are to be judged on the following criterion: Creative use of the ingredient, most likely to be eaten first, best photograph, and reproducibility. So now, on to the recipes (be sure to click through to check out the entire recipes).
Kate made Puntin Pumpkin Pies.
Lauren made Mom's Cheesecake Cups.
B and I sat down and discussed the two recipes. We both agreed that both recipes we equal in regards to creative use of ingredient. Neither one was really crazy out of the box thinking.
When it comes to reproducibility, I let B choose the winner of that category since she's a novice cook/baker. She thought Lauren's cheesecake cups would be easier for someone like her to make for a football get together.
When it comes to the photograph, I'd like to say that Kate's photos are definitely improving! While I think Lauren's photo is maybe composed better, B and I agreed that Kate's first photo made us want to eat those little pumpkin footballs. And really, that's the point of food photography, right? To make the person seeing the photo want to eat whatever is in the photo. Thus, Kate gets the best photo of the week.
Last but not least is the category of most likely to go quickly at a football gathering. We both thought the overall cuteness of the pumpkin footballs would make them go very quickly.
Congratulations Kate! I can't wait to see what you and Lauren come up with next week!!
I've placed my vote, now it's time for you to cast yours! Be sure to go to Highlowaha to vote for your favorite of these two recipes.
5 Responses to "Superbowl Snack Throwdown – Week 5"
Thank you so much for your kind words and constructive criticism. I just started reading your reviews this past week because I wasn't aware you were doing such an elaborate write up about them. I didn't realize photography was important in your decision! My hubby brought our super awesome camera home from work and helped me get some pictures this week, and obviously it paid off. My photography skills don't go much past trying to catch my toddlers doing something funny before they STOP doing it. Thanks for your vote this week and I look forward to your upcoming reviews!!!!
Have fun in the midwest! I'm leaving for Ohio on Tuesday…gotta love home:)
Yep Kate, photography is supposed to be one of the four categories I use to judge!!
Both of these recipes looked amazing, but I agree with the selection. The pumpkin footballs were my pick, too. I love pumpkin, and these little footballs look really tasty.
Good job, Kate.
what great treats for football season! I think both looked great.


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Mo, Yanks make light of last year's injury in KC
KANSAS CITY -- Mariano Rivera jogged out to the spot where his career could have ended 12 months ago, looked down and smiled.
A prankster from the Yankees' clubhouse had painted a white chalk outline of Rivera's body on the warning track, while a banner adorned with stop signs and yellow caution tape fluttered from the outfield wall reading: "No Mo Zone."
"The guys put a little effort into that sign. It had paint and tape and a little bit of everything," Yankees manager Joe Girardi said. "We even had to hold him in here a little bit while they put it up."
Rivera posed in front of the wall for a photo, grabbing his right knee in mock pain, and couldn't have been surprised.
In Denver on Thursday, Rivera said that he expected to hear some good-natured ribbing from his teammates as he returned to Kauffman Stadium, the Yanks' first trip back since Rivera tore his right ACL before a May 3, 2012, game against the Royals.
"The only thing that will come back to me is just knowing that I got hurt there," Rivera said. "But I mean, I will enjoy it definitely because that moment and seeing where I am right now, that's what is gratifying. I'm thanking the Lord for me being here."
Yankees bullpen coach Mike Harkey, who was one of the first on the scene when Rivera crumpled in pursuit of a Jayson Nix fly ball on that afternoon last May, is believed to have been one of the leading pranksters to dress up the left-center-field area on Friday.
The adornments were removed by the time the Yankees' batting practice session concluded, and after the Yanks' 11-6 victory over the Royals, the banner -- caution tape and all -- was folded neatly into the locker next to Rivera's in the visiting clubhouse.
"I'm going to put it right in front of my home," Rivera cracked.
Bryan Hoch is a reporter for MLB.com. Follow him on Twitter @bryanhoch and read his MLBlog, Bombers Beat. This story was not subject to the approval of Major League Baseball or its clubs.


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Killer Pizza is a pizza shop that serves really tasty pizza pies…and it's a whole lot more. Killer Pizza is the front for a top-secret monster fighting organization that recruits and trains top notch monster hunters.
High School students Toby, Strobe and Annabel were recruited in Killer Pizza. In this new adventure, Killer Pizza: The Slice, they are official Monster Combat Officers. A monster has defected and is seeking asylym in the monster protection program.
Toby, Strobe and Annabel are assigned the task of helping this monster learn about human culture while keeping it safe from it's pursuers who want it back, really bad. The kids are perfect teachers because the defecting monster can take two forms: a giant snake with poisonous spit…or a drop-dead gorgeous teenage girl. As always, these Monster Combat Officers are ready for action. Author: Greg Taylor
- Amazon Look Inside Killer Pizza: The Slice
- Google Preview Killer Pizza: The Slice
- Read the Prologue The Slice
- Official Website Killer Pizza
- Greg Taylor Official Website
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An extraordinary 131-DVD box set featuring 1,225 episodes...
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To buy action figures, take a look at BigBadToyStore.com, RedfordFilms.com, PastGenerationToys.com, BriansToys.com, ToyWiz.com, SmallJoes.com, MonkeyDepot.com, and Urban-Collector.com.
The vampire romance is one of today's hottest genres in movies, television and novels, from the Twilight and True Blood to The Vampire Diaries, Underworld and Interview With the Vampire, but it all started with DARK SHADOWS, the ABC daytime series that brought tormented hero Barnabas Collins into the homes of devoted fans every weekday for five years. Now, in an unprecedented event, the entire series – 1,225 episodes on 131 discs – will be released in a single deluxe set. On May 8, 2012, MPI will release DARK SHADOWS: THE COMPLETE ORIGINAL SERIES. The SRP for this collector's set is $599.98.
DARK SHADOWS: THE COMPLETE ORIGINAL SERIES includes more than 100 bonus interviews with the actors and production personnel – its cast included Kate Jackson, Oscar nominee Grayson Hall and Hollywood Golden Era movie star Joan Bennett, plus a 96-page booklet with photographs and episode summaries, DVDs of bloopers, behind-the-scenes documentary and cast reunion – all housed in a coffin-shaped box.
For fans who do not get the opportunity to purchase the $600 box set, MPI is releasing FAN FAVORITES and THE BEST OF BARNABAS on April 10th. Priced at $14.98, each release offers 9 complete episodes that are among the most popular in the history of the show, serving as an ideal introduction to new viewers as well as an enticing overview for devotees of the series. Included in FAN FAVORITES are Barnabas' return to Collinwood after being release from his chained coffin; Barnabas and Dr. Julia Hoffman (Grayson Hall) discovering the secret of the werewolf; Maggie Evans (Kathryn Leigh Scott) becoming the victim of a vampire, and more. THE BEST OF BARNABAS includes Julia's attempts to cure the cursed Barnabas; ee rie trips back in time to 1795 and 1897; the popular Parallel Time story line, and more. Each set includes informative new introductions by Kathryn Leigh Scott and Lara Parker (Angelique).
Source: MPI Home Video


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Wiltshire's acting Chief Constable Patrick Geenty will have to apply for the post if he wants the job permanently after new Police and Crime Commissioner Angus Macpherson said he will advertise the job.
An advertisement for the role will be published in the Police Professional magazine on Thursday 29 November. There will also be adverts from Wednesday, 28 November on the Police Professional, Wiltshire Police and PCC websites.
Mr Macpherson said: "Patrick Geenty has been our temporary Chief Constable since March 2012, when his predecessor was seconded to the Border Agency.
"I want to move quickly to secure a substantive appointment to the position of Chief Constable. There are a considerable number of vacancies nationally, and I want Wiltshire and Swindon to have the largest possible pool of candidates. We have therefore advertised early, and will be one of the first to recruit."
Mr Macpherson is refusing to answer any more questions about the decision.
Mr Geenty's contract as temporary chief ends in March.
A police source said: "This doesn't necessarily mean that Pat Geenty isn't wanted as a chief contsbale in Wiltshire, it could just be that this is part of a due process to ensure the proper procedure in appointing a full time chief is followed.
Mr Geenty, who lives in Gastard near Corsham, made no secret of his desire to take on the role full-time in the run-up to the PCC elections.
"I'm enjoying the job and, if I'm wanted, I'd like to continue in it," he said.
Mr Geenty, who is married with two grown-up children, said he would apply to become chief constable permanently once his temporary contract ends.
He said: "I'd like to lead the force through the next couple of years, as they will bring the most significant change in my service and I would like to shape some of that."
Mr Geenty joined the police service in 1983 and served in Gloucestershire and Humberside before joining Wiltshire Police as assistant chief constable in April 2009. He was appointed temporary deputy chief constable after the death of David Ainsworth, the previous deputy chief constable, in March 2011.
He became temporary chief last March when Brian Moore began a short-lived stint with the UK Border Force.
As part of the process, Mr Macpherson will chair a recruitment panel, which will comprise leaders of both Wiltshire Council and Swindon Borough Council and an experienced member of the voluntary sector.
He added: "It will be a rigorous process. The important dates are closing date for applications, 19 December, 2012, and 7 January, 2013, when we will interview."


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Spring 2014 CSD Research Newsletter
|Author: Janice Smith
Date: Tuesday, February 25th, 2014
To view the Spring 2014 Research Newsletter click here.
WKU is now an ASHA CEU provider. We are happy to announce our first course offering. January 23 & 24, 2015 - When Children Don't Eat: Evaluation and Treatment of Pediatric Feeding Disorders. Speaker: Rhonda Mattingly
Take a moment to check out our Spring 2014 Research Newsletter and find out what our CSD faculty, staff, and students have been up to!
WKU Winter term 2014 took 19 students and six faculty/staff on a service learning study abroad to Belize through the College of Health and Human Services International Health and Human Service Learning Program (IHHSLP).
Take a moment to check out our Spring 2014 Research Newsletter and find out what our CSD faculty, staff, and students have been up to!
Western Kentucky University's Department of Communication Disorders was well represented at the American Speech-Language-Hearing Association (ASHA) Convention held in Atlanta, GA this year.
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I'm not a big, big fan of Harrington but having dealt with the likes of Artest, Jax and Tinsley he would almost be a breath of fresh air. So . . .
Do you absolutely think he is headed here - at least no later than next year? I think he is because to Walsh he is a known quanitity. I do think he has matured enough - and has experienced what it is like to play for a terrible team - to also appreciate what he had and could have here.


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UT System Regents Revise Distribution Policy of the Permanent University Fund
EDINBURG – The distribution rate for The Permanent University Fund (PUF) for fiscal year 2009 was increased from 4.75 percent to 5.0 percent by the Board of Regents of The University of Texas System following a review of the current distribution policy.
The action, taken today (Feb. 7) at a meeting of the Board, does not represent a permanent change in the payout percentage. Instead, it provides guidance to the Board as it conducts its annual review of the distribution policy of the PUF.
The move to increase the payout this year was prompted by several years of impressive investment returns and reflects the Board's philosophy of providing UT institutions with additional financial assistance when it determines such resources are available.
"Given the unprecedented increase in revenues from operations on the West Texas lands due to increasing energy prices, the realization of five years of outstanding returns from investments managed by UTIMCO, and our shared understanding that UT System institutions require additional funds to advance academic excellence, the Board feels now is the time to increase the distribution rate of the PUF," Regents' Chairman H. Scott Caven, Jr., said.
"While the Board's decision today will result in additional revenue for UT campuses in the near term, it is important to note that our action today does not represent a permanent increase in the distribution rate, but rather calls for a more comprehensive annual review of the distribution policy by the Board of Regents as part of our continuing fiduciary obligation to grow the fund while protecting it from inflation so that it may continue to benefit future generations of students," Caven said.
The increase in the payout rate to 5.0 percent is expected to yield an additional $27 million for FY 2009.
In making the motion to establish the revised distribution policy and formula for the PUF, Caven directed that the new revenue resulting from the increase in the payout be directed toward expanding the UT System's faculty recruitment and retention efforts. The portion of the increase directed to excellence funding at UT Austin will be used to expand the faculty and provide other services to students.
"The UT System and its institutions remain committed to providing an affordable and quality education for its students," UT System Chancellor Mark G. Yudof said. "As a very large portion of our endowment is restricted for specific purposes and cannot be used to mitigate increases in operational expenses typically funded from tuition and fee revenues, the Board's decision to increase the payout in the short term will help our campuses meet strategic goals such as growing and retaining faculty and infrastructure needs."
The Texas Constitution of 1876 established the PUF through the appropriation of land grants previously designated to The University of Texas, as well as an additional 1 million acres. Another state grant of 1 million acres was made in 1883. PUF lands, which today consist of more than 2.1 million acres located primarily in West Texas, are managed by the UT System under direction of the Board of Regents. The lands are managed to produce two income streams: one from oil, gas and mineral interests, and the other from surface interests, such as grazing.
The state constitution restricts the income stream from the PUF to be used for the payment of principal and interest on bonds for capital construction at eligible UT System and Texas A&M University System institutions. Any residual distributions after payment of the debt service on the bonds are used to fund academic excellence programs at UT Austin, Texas A&M University and Prairie View A&M University, as well as oversight responsibilities at the UT System administration.
The Constitution directs the UT System Board of Regents to establish a distribution policy that provides stable, inflation-adjusted distributions to the Available University Fund (AUF) and preserves the real value of PUF investments over the long term. The last time the Board adjusted the distribution policy was in 2001 when it increased the payout percentage from 4.50 percent to 4.75 percent.
About The University of Texas System
Serving the educational and health care needs of Texans for more than 125 years, the UT System is one of the nation's largest higher education systems with 15 campuses – including nine academic and six health institutions – and has an annual operating budget of $10.7 billion (FY 2008) including $2.3 billion in research funded by federal, state, local and private sources. Student enrollment exceeded 190,000 in the 2006 academic year. The UT System confers more than one-third of the state's undergraduate degrees and educates nearly three-fourths of the state's health care professionals annually. With more than 80,000 employees, the UT System is one of the largest employers in the state.


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In a letter to her daughter back East, Martha Jane is not shy about her own importance: "Martha Jane -- better known as Calamity -- is just one of the handful of aging legends who travel to London as part of Buffalo Bill Cody's Wild West Show in Buffalo Girls." As he describes the insatiable curiosity of Calamity's Indian friend No Ears, Annie Oakley's shooting match with Lord Windhouveren, and other highlights of the tour, McMurtry turns the story of a band of hardy, irrepressible survivors into an unforgettable portrait of love, fellowship, dreams, and heartbreak.
©2001 Larry McMurtry (P)2004 Simon & Schuster
"Come sit by the fire and listen to a story..."
I did not expect to like this book so much.
As a kid I read about the Wild West and this book had good reviews (and was on sale), so I started it and was immediately brought in by the "camp fire".
This is as good a combination of reader and story as you will ever find.
The characters are richly written. With all their prickles, bad habits, really bad decisions, reverses and tragedies, each one is sympathetic and real, but would not make easy friends.
This is an interesting study on what happens when an era ends, but the people who lived it are still around. Where do they go? What do they do now? Take it on the road? There are no more absurd contrasts than a bunch of wild west cowboys and Indians in the middle of Victorian England, but here they are. And then the anticlimax of coming home to what?
Heartrending and real with romance thrown in, this book imagines all the possibilities with kindness and humor and all too human sadness.
"The very best in every sense. "
My very favorite..Narrator Betty Buckley knocked it out of the park. Writing was absolutely masterful.
"One of my favorites"
I have had the pleasuer of listening to several of Larry McMurtry's books. But is is one of my favorites. Part of it is due to the reader Betty Buckley. It feels like the real Calamidy Jane is speaking at times, or even more of an entire cast. She does an amazing job. The story of the Old west and the main Characters of Buffalo Bills Wild West show draw into life here. The book is also written threw the eyes of several people, Jane, the bufflo men, no ears, ect. You feel you know every character. If you enjoy Larry McMurtry this is a must have!
"Worth the read"
I went back and forth on whether to rate the story three or four stars. For McMurtry it's only a three. But since I like McMurtry his threes are more like fours for anyone else.
My inclination is to compare this to Lonesome Dove. But really, it's not Lonesome Dove and not meant to be. We'll just stipulate that LD is better, that everyone should listen to it and move on to Buffalo Girls.
McMurtry has written a sad lonely book. He's borrowed history and molded it into a shape that suited him. In doing so he's given himself a new canvass to work with. This book will not move into the future with you. You won't look back and think of it later, most likely, but it still has things to say and will entertain you absolutely while it says them.
The best thing about Buffalo Girls is Betty Buckley's performance. Her husky broken voice creates the landscape and takes you back in time and due west. (Unless you're from California, in that case you'll have to head east.)
Definitely worth the credit.
I love all of Larry McMurtry's books and buffalo girls did not disappoint. It has all his familiar western characters and this time they are routed in history. Betty Buckley does an outstanding narration that is funny, heartfelt, sad and wistful - she really evokes the feeling of the dying Wild West and all it's pathos. If you are a fan of McMurtry and love tales of the old west this recording will enthrall you.
"great trip to the old west"
I so enjoyed McMurtry's portrayal of Calamity Jane and others of that time. great book!
this is second time, I read this book, it is amazing
I have described it to many friends
"No film could have told this story better."
One of the best.
I loved it! A great story about the mythical old west. The reader is excellent and bits of music between sections beautifully sets the mood as the story unfolds. No film could have told this story better. A creative, and sensitive production.
"Sad but great!"
The character's story telling was so good. You laughed and cried with them. It had some history in it that really helped to tell the story and entertain.
The "voice" the author gives the characters, especially the character of no ears and the voice the narrator used didn't match in my head, but overall, she did a good job.
No ears, for sure! He seemed so interesting and had such insight, but kind of from an unusual perspective and with odd ideas and thoughts. I would love to have a conversation with him!
Larry McMurtry is awesome! As always!
"Fun story, very good narration"
The Narrator sounded like an old drunk- just like Calamity.
Haven't found one yet
A voice that brings all the characters come alive.
Calmity's friend Dora. She almost starved as a child and she kinda turns me on.
Heaps of fun on a long driving trip. Kept me smiling the whole 5 hrs !
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Hey folks,
Does anyone watch this show? I feel a need to discuss it. We just watched season one episodes 1-8. We loved the first 7 episodes -- and I was to the point of crowing about the brilliance of the writing staff -- but then episode 8 completely disappointed us.
What do others think? Does Brody's past tutoring gig not seem a bit facile compared to the plotting that seems so savvy earlier in season one? Is there stuff to come that redeems this misstep?
More importantly -- what are you general thoughts about HOMELAND?
EDIT: Goodness, I got the forum wrong AGAIN! Sorry everyone.


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Oakland, CA 94607
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USC players were unhappy with a couple officiating calls. Trojans center Omar Oraby and UCLA guard Norman Powell each received technical fouls when tempers started to flare.
Oraby walked toward Powell, who seemed to want to go after him and the pair were separated.
"I don't know how I got the technical foul," Oraby said. "I wasn't saying anything. (I approached him) because I was just trying to get a teammate."
Later in the second half, USC guard Byron Wesley received a flagrant foul when UCLA guard Shabazz Muhammad had a breakaway layup.
"In my opinion it wasn't a flagrant foul at all," Wesley said. "He lost his balance and flew into the camera section. I think it got blown out of proportion. I went for the ball."


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Astenbeck Capital's Top Energy Picks
Astenbeck Capital Management, which is 80% owned by manager Andrew Hall, focuses almost entirely on energy and other basic materials stocks. The fund recently filed its 13F for the third quarter of 2012, disclosing many of the long equity positions that it owned at the end of September, and while investors shouldn't blindly copy any manager's holdings, we believe that they are a good starting point to find stocks worthy of further research. In this case, Astenbeck's two favorite stocks were both energy companies. Read on for a brief analysis of Statoil (STO) and Total SA (TOT) and see what stocks the fund has liked in the past.
Astenbeck reported owning 2.4 million shares of Statoil. That company's $76 billion market cap places it at only 8x consensus earnings for 2013, a fairly cheap price compared to many large oil companies. Statoil is also notable in that it recently purchased Brigham Exploration and Production, a Bakken Shale-focused oil company, and so has a sizable position in one of the hottest shale plays in the onshore U.S. In the third quarter of 2012, Statoil reported revenue about flat from a year earlier but a 38% increase in earnings. This runs in contrast to many other oil companies whose net income was down. Statoil also pays a dividend yield in the 3% range, though investors should note that it is not a constant payment, but rather one that changes from year to year....470 more words left in this article. To read them, just click below and try Real Money FREE for 14 days.
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