text: MMMeWBMWWWBWWWffla^^ WaWWIlWBWgBM tB WW a BW^^ HAND CRAFT PROJECTS Hand Craft Projects FOR SCHOOL AND HOME SHOPS FRANK I. SOLAR Northern High School, Detroit, Michigan Editor of "Toys and Useful Articles a Boy Can Make ', "Practical Construction Work for Home and School Shops*', "Bird Houses of Simple Construction" Drawings by the Author and A. M. Cornwell Book I THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY Milwaukee, 'Wisconsin Copyright 1921 THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY PREFACE This book is the first of a series whicli will include oyer 2,000 articles. Boys and others interested in work- ing with tools will find them a ^eat convenience. In- stead of arranging the articles in one expensive book, they will be written in a series of volumes, additional volumes being published from time to time. Each volume is to be sold at a moderate price and will make an inexpensive but very welcome gift to those inter- ested in hand work. The projects in this book are not all original, but are things that boys in my classes have made and enjoy making. Many of the suggestions and ideas were brought in by the boys themselves. The articles describing the projects have been made as sliort as possible in order that boys need not waste time reading long descriptions. Many of the models were excellent sellers in the Red Cross sales and considered attractive enough to be made a permanent exhibit at the Detroit Museum of Art. Money invested in tools is not wasted. A good selec- tion will cost no more than a good bicycle, and if well cared for will last several generations. Parents who can interest their boys in tools and let them have a shop at home, will know where to find them evenings and many hours of worry will bo saved, as the boys might be out on the streets or In pool rooms. Moreover, the value of the useful articles they might make should be considered. The boy himself, no matter what vocation he follows later, will never regret the time spent in the shop with his tools. In these articles trade terms are used as often as possible to familiarize boys with their use in real practice. It has been the author's ambition to have the draw- ings of the projects so made that very little explana- tion is necessary. An effort has been made in formulating the projects to eliminate the old hackneyed problems, and, although the same names are used, an examination of the draw- ings will show that each one is decidedly different and possesses some originality. Physical exercise is necessary for good health. Per- sons engaged in work requiring veo' little physical effort usually devote some time each day to calisthenics or other artificial exercise. Effort spent on construc- tive work with tools is more fascinating and is pro- ductive of the same results, thereby accomplishing a twofold purpose. 2066175 "Keep the faculty of eifort alive within you with a little gratuitous exercise each day." — James. TABLE OF CONTENTS Shop Notes and Etiriuotte 7 l/uuiber 8 Personal Equipment S. 9 Standards and Conventions 10. 11 Construction Proljlenis 10, 12 Common Joints 10, i:i Tools 14 Commonly Used Hardware 15-20 Shop Kinks and Information 1.5, 21 Bits and Drills 21-2:! Brads, Screws and Fastenini^s 2.3. 24 Sandpaper and Finish ■ 2,5 Finish 2,5, 20 Laying Out Tools 2C-2S Saws 2S, 21) Planes 28, 30 ,-!3 Planing and Scoring Rules 30. 32, R3 Worli Bench 34. 35 Combination Bench Ilook 30, 37 Toy Pig 3S, 39 Child's Morris Chair 40. 41 Cutting Board 42. 43 Toy Cannon 44. 45 Bath Koom Cup Holder 40, 47 Skate Sharpener 48, 49 Steam Engine .50,- 51 Toy Elephant 52, ,53 Feeding Bird 54, 55 Flying Propeller 50, 57 Potato Gun 58. ,59 A Wooden Doll 60. 61 A Thanksgiving Gobbler 02, 03 Aeroplane Weathervane 64, 65 POBC .Small Cart an, 67 Ued Cross Ambulance cm. i!;i Baby's Hocking Horse 70, 71 ,Tuniping .Tack 72, 73 The Ilula naneers 74, 7.% Mechanical Duck 70, 77 Scout Fireniaklng Set 7,s. 7i» Bob Sled jm_ si A High Spei'd Drill i<2, si Crumb Tray ^, 8.5 Flag Ilidder ,s«, ^7 Toy Uabliit 8.S. SO Target Pistol !K). 1(1 .Tack Be Nimble Kj, ict Boy Scouts Heliograph !14, <(,"> (Jrouud Scratcher 00, 1)7 Child's Snow Shovel lis, IKt Kites 100. 101 Puzzles 102. 103 Trench Mortar 104. 10.5 Straddle Horse 106. 107 The Bag Puncher lOS, 100 Low Folding Table 110, 111 Letter Hack 112, 113 Silhouette Camera 114. 115 Sewing Companion J16, IIT Ornamental Garden Sticks U.S. 119 Mouse Trap 120. 121 Boys Handy Wagon 122. l'-'3 'I'ravelers Case 124. 12S Hallowe'en Fun Makers 120. 127 Wind Mill Acrobat 128, 129 Pin ami Ball Game 130, 131 Page Page Sail Boat ,132, 133 Fly Trap 144, 145 Chair Lami) 134, l.'!r> plant Box 14G, 147 '•'-'^ ""•"^ Jf' ]■" Submarine '. 14S, 140 Bull Dog 13S. 13!) , , , Christmas Tree Stand 140. 141 Phonograph Dancer loO. lol Baby Auto Car 142, 143 Telephone Screen 152, 1.53 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS Shop Notes and Etiquette This work, to be done in tlie scliool or liome sliop, is for the purpose of training the hand to make what the mind and eye picture, and to teach the care and manipulation of common wood-working tools. All work should be done from working drawings, blue prints or sketches. Never begin a project for which you have no drawing without first making some kind of a sketch. Shop work is required in some schools for gradua- tion and some credit is given those with good marks wishing to take an engineering course. To obtain the best results each boy should be fur- nished with a bench suitable to his height and a sharp set of individual tools. It is then his business to keep them in this condition. Only selfish boys will use tools improperly and dull them for the other fellow to sharpen. It; is usually found that boys who do poor work are satisfied to work with dull tools. Any boy who is careless enough to saw into an iron vise, pound with the point of his plane, chop with a back saw, and bore holes and drive nails into his bench, will not make a valuable man to any employer. What would i contractor say if a man came lo hire out with a stool under one arm and his tools under Ihe other? But, how often do we see boys sitting on stools trying to piano and saw, and also trying to do work with a coat on! The first thing a boy does when getting into a game that requires exercise is to throw off his coat, so why not do the same in the shop? Talking, whistling and other unnecessary noises are not conducive to the best work. They are also annoy- ing to others and distract their attention from their work. Do not use the try square for a hammer, or a chisel for a screw driver, as others may wish to use the same tool and do not enjoy working with a dull tool any more than you do. Never use a hammer on a chisel handle, or to drive a piece through the dowel plate. The mallet should be used for these purposes. While all power machinery should be well guarded in any shop to prevent accidents, it Is best when machinery is in operation to keep at a safe distance. Do not depend upon the other fellow to care for your personal safety. You suffer the pain in case of accident. 8 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS To avoid repetition, pages in the front of the hook will be devoted to general information. Lumber Lumber comes in different conditions known as dressed and undressed. If ordered undressed, it is just as it comes from the saw, rough on both sides and edges. If ordered S2S, (S meaning surfaced), both sides will be surfaced. If ordered S4S, both sides and edges will be surfaced or made smooth by the planer. If it is desired to have it finished further, specify that it is to be sanded on all sides and edges. When ordering lumber, make out your bill as fol- lows: First, give name of wood; second, number of pieces; third, thickness; fourth, width; fifth, length; and sixth, finish desired. For example: Red Oak 2 Pes. %" x 41/8" x 3' S4S To be sanded all sides Bass Wood 1 Pc. Vz" x 10" x 10' Rough Gum Wood 3 Pes. %" x 8" x 12' S2S The most common woods used for home and school bench work are bass wood, white pine, gum wood, red and white oak, black walnut, mahogany, red wood, red cedar and cypress. These are all easily worked and take desirable finishes. Yellow pine, spruce, hemlock, fir, cypress, birch and maple are used in the building trades. Most of these are coarse grained and split easily. Hickory is straight grained and very elastic. It is good for hammer handles, bows and arrows and other models that must bend without breaking. Other kinds of lumber may be more accessible in other localities. Cypress is a wood that will withstand dampness and is very good for plant boxes, etc., while gum and bass- wood absorb moisture and warp, hence are not satis- factory for outside use. Composition, wall or beaver board can often be used instead of lumber. Personal Equipment It is quite necessary that a woodworker protect his clothing from dust, dirt, stain, paint, grease, oil, etc., by some manner of covering. Of course, different kinds of work will require different kinds of dress. If pos- sible, old clothing may be worn, in which case the worker's body can easily assume any position and not be encumbered by excess clothing. With most clothing protectors it is not convenient to work in any other than a standing position. Plate 1 shows five boys differently attired. Tho first is wearing an apron which is sufficient covering for ordinary bench work; the second is equipped with coveralls which make the best possible covering for any kind of work, especially wood turning where dust, shavings, oil and stain are likely to fly on the shirts, shoulders and collar. It also protects the back of the PERSONAL EQUIPMENT Plate 1. trousers, shirt, etc. The shop coat and cap, number three, are very good as they give nearly as much protection as the coveralls. The second and third give protection to the worker who might back into a painted article not yet dry. The short coat and a^)ron are good hut they do not give the protection afforded l>y the second and third. The short coat, number nve, if used with overalls would he good, but when worn alone gives no protection below the waist. A light weight cloth cap will keep the hair out of the wearer's eyes and also shade them. It will also protect the hair from dust, dirt and oil. The boys in the picture arc wearing paper caps given away for advertising purposes. Each worker should be provided with a lead pencil, not too soft, a pocket knife and a two foot, four fold rule. It is not good practice to borrow pencils. A towel and some good soap should be kept in the locker. When on certain jobs of white wood to be varnished, it is quite necessary to keep the hands clean. To provide good working conditions the shop should bo well lighted and not too warm. Sixty degrees is a good temperature. 10 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS Standards and Conventions It is unfortunate that the schools of the country have not established a standard set of conventions for representing articles by drawings. Those who may use conventions different from those used in the following drawings will have no difficulty in understanding the drawings if they will refer to the standards indicated here. After an investigation of the standards used in over fifty of the largest and most important factories and institutions in the country, and then compiling a book- let which was submitted to these concerns for criticism, it was found that these standards were most generally used, and so were adopted by the drawing department of the Detroit Public Schools. The conventional lines are shown on Plate 2 the exact weight, length and spacing they should be made on a drawing, but on the drawings of the projects they will appear lighter in weight due to the fact that they were made the correct weight on the original drawing, but when the cut was made, were reduced. The illustrations with dimensions show the proper method of dimensioning and indicating notes for dif- ferent parts. It is proper to make the full or half arrow on the leader lines. Note that in the section the bolt is not cross hatched. This method should be followed in drawing bolts, nails, screws, etc., where sections are made to more clearly indicate the construction of a part. Perspective, isometric and cabinet sketches are used to show the assembled model, and the relation of the parts. These sketches picture the model better than the mechanical drawing. Construction Problems Plate 3 illustrates the methods for making the common layouts used in constructing the parts of the following projects. The quadrant is 90 degrees or one-quarter of a circle. The semicircle is 180 degrees or one-half of a circle. Other constructions show methods for locating cen- ters, finding the lengths of arcs, dividing a line into a certain number of equal parts, and others that will be of use in making this series of models. The hexagon and octagon are shapes that are com- monly used for tabouret tops, lamp bases, etc. It is often quite necessary to know how to lay out a pentagon, star, oval, ellipse, and to make a polygon of any number of sides desired. Common Joints Plate 4 is not intended to give all the different kinds of joints in use, but merely shows the kinds most commonly used and which will be used on the follow- ing projects. PLATE 2 11 Standards ''~° Conventions CONVENTIONAL LINES. BORDER LINE HEAVY OBJECT LINE riEDIUM CENTER LINE FINE HIDDEN EDGE LINE HEDIUM PROJECTION LINE FINE CONSTRUCTION LINE FINE Lr DIMENSION LINE ^ "^ \ ™^ n oiiJi' -REFERENCE LINE -LEADER DIMENSIONS OR -o?*--- ^ ^ DRIL '-r ?\ -^ f PERSPECTIVE SKETCHES ISOMETRIC /6 ^ *\76\- THir SECT ION m= i) CABINET PLATE 3 Ow|rtO«-*<vr . 90' 5£MiCiRCt.£ -ISO" GEOMETRIC CONSTRUCTIONS. To Fif^Q CehiTSf O" Oiven Square Draw Diagonal.^ AB AnO CD li^TERSecTiOi^ O Is Ccnter Of Squar£ To 8istcT A Given Ai^glc With O A3 >^ CENTea. A/v£> A^vr Radius. PfiAW Afic A8 From Points I And ^ Ora^ Ancs Intcr- SEOTINO J^T 3 L//V£ 03 BfsacTS The Ah/aue To Dt^Aw An Afic Through 3 Poii-jt^ not In Ti-il SAfiE Straight Line. FROrj A A NO 8 DRA\N a ACS In tersec T/nO At I -aNP £_ANO FROn & ANO c Intlrsectino L iNE 5 From if, 3 Through 'ENTER Of Arc At 3 AfjDt I TmRouoi -3 C/v£ O. To OiviOE A Giv£.N 5TRAtGMT UNE.AS AD, Into Any NunBtR Of Equa. Pa r tj (5a y s) S.c From a £>RAW AC AT , ^ ^ A/^v A 7 a 9 ^ Angle. Using Af^t" Convenient Measure- rltNT LAy Oe^ fiEQulREO 3RACE.5 At /, e. J, a, J. OfiAiN S3 Lines Drawn From *?. 3. 3 AN0 I PAffALLE.L. To S3 OiviDf. AB Into 5 EqualP^rts \ Atj Arc S&ing Given^ To FiNO A Straight LinC Of Equal L£ivcth Divide arc AB Into Equal. D/visio/vs ^ SriALL OlVISlONS WI1.L OlVC Greater Accuracy Lay Off Same Divisions Om Straight Line Oiving AC Equal To Arc A& Inscribed Figure s To PRAW A Hejcagon Set Dividers To LtNCTH Of Desired 5iOE And Describe CiRCi-E From A AND 3 With Same Padius_ Draw Afics Cutting Circle At /.3.3 Ano «? Connect These Points For Pesireo HEaagon To Draw Ai^Octagon Draw ABCO Local To En Closing SouAttE F.^O CENTER O FaoM A e. C AND D, With Radius AG. DRAW ARCS Cutting Square at Points /, ^, 3, tf 3 £ 7 An/D 8 Connect These Poults For P€5lREO Octaoon To Draw a Pentagon Describe Re- quired Circle Find Center Of Radius OA At FaoM 3 With Pad Be Cut PiA AE At P FRor-j C With Rap CP Cut Circle At I and ^ From /and 2. With Same Pad Get 3 ano ^3. I C a 3 ■? Is RtouiREO Pentagon To PfiAw A Five Point eo STAfi Di vide PEQuiRed Circle Into Five. Equal Parts As For Pentagon Connect Points as Shown Oval On Dia AB Pes - CRiOE A Circle Frqi-j Center C Draw CP^ Perren- DiCuLAf* To A& Df^AW APF A'^o &PE From a Draw ARC 8F Ano FfiOM 3 PRAw ARC AE FROm P OftAw ARC E F A<3BF E Is ReociREO Oval To Dr. AfpfiOKit^ATe A& ->«(. CP Are ffAJOR Anq Minor Ares Make Of ai^cOe = To AB - CP MAKE OH ANO OC. = To ^ OF Draw Fna . F03 EHt a^d EGa From £ ano F Draw arcs lO^ Afvo ^C3 From g a/-jd m DRAn f:\RGS 2 3 AfJO I A^ OF To Inscribe A /Secular Polygon Of vr Number Of Sides In A Given Ci»Ci.E PiviDE OiA A 7 Into Same No Of Parts As Polygon Has Sides £xT£/vo Dia CD Making CF ^ To ^ Of Ct Through F and < The Second Division On A 7 . PpAYv F C>, Cutting Circumference At o ^ The Chof>o AC Is 0/v£ 5ioe Of Thc Reqw^e-O /=t><_>-..o'/ PLATE 4 13 Common joints MITCRJOINT 14 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS The procedure for laying out the Joints is not given because there are many volumes in every library en- tirely devoted to joinery. These should be consulted freely for any information concerning joint construc- tion which it may be necessary to have'. The Bruce Publishing Company will at any time be glad to recom- mend the best and latest volumes on manual arts work. The dado joint is used in making book racks, settin;:^ tabouret tops into the legs, etc. The half lap joint is used in constructing spreaders, making braces, etc. This joint may also be made by making the cutouts on the edges of the pieces as well as on the working faces. A dowel joint may be used in any kind of a top where several pieces are to be used, or instead of the mortise and tenon joint in joining a rail or a spreader to a leg. The mortise and tenon joint is most commonly used in table and chair construction. A butt or rabbet joint is made use of in box con- struction, and a lap or miter joint in making picture or other frames. Tools Teachers and others who work with boys are often asked by boys and parents, especially around Christ- mas, to makf a list of tools that might be recommended for the home shop. Tools make excellent Christmas and birthday gifts. The average boy Is not familiar with tools, hence does not understand quality, pnd does not know what to select if the choice is left to him. Usually the person who does the buying knows little more than the boy. The result is that the gift consists of a nice looking tool box filled with cheap tools — some that may never be used at all and others that were selected more for looks than the practical use that might be made of them. Expensive tools are the cheapest in the end. The best way to select a set is to inquire of experienced tool workers as to what make is best and then select each tool individually. By adding new tools now and then, and taking good care of them, one soon acquires a com- plete equipment without noticing the amount of money invested. The following is a list recommended for the home shop: 1 Jack plane 14" 1 Combination hacksaw, 1 6" Try square ^ip and crosscut 1 Cross cut saw 20"— 10 1 Turning saw point 1 Nail set 1 Rip saw 20"— 8 point 1 Pencil compass 1 Steel rule 12" 1 Hammer, Maydole 13 1 Carpenter's square 1 Spoke shave 1 Wood rasp 1 Jack knife COMMONLY USED HARDWARE 15 1 Oil stone 1 'A" Chisel 1 1" Auger bit 1 Marking gauge 1 %" Auger bit 1 ,=c" Twist drill 1 >2" Auger bit 1 Ratchet bit brace 1 %" Auger bit 1 Rectangular scraper 1 V-i" Auger bit 1 Bit file 1 Rose countersink 1 Screwdriver 1 1" Chisel 1 Pair pliers 1 1/2" Chisel 1 Screwdriver bit 1 %" Chisel 1 3 sided saw file Commonly Used Hardware It has been the author's experience that few people know the trade names for comniQn hardware and spe- cial tools. Considerable time and parley would be saved in the hardware store if the purchaser knew the trade names of the articles he wished to buy. One place where this should be taught every boy is in the manual training class. For this reason sev- -eral pages are here devoted to cuts of hardware and special tools that are found .in most households and are used in the average shop' some time or other. These cuts, however, show only one article of each variety, using the trade name to identify it. Many of the articles can be purchased in a variety of sizes and lengths. Plate 5 showing special tools contains a tew that will be found very convenient for doing certain jobs. The rotary head glazier's hammer is used for driving glazier's points. Two coping saw blades are shown, one having a pin in each end for fastening, and the other simply an eye turned. The cornering tool is for finish- ing corners uniformly, and the tracing wheel is for tracing patterns. Circular snips are used for cutting circular pieces, and pinking irons for making fancy scallops on edges of certain materials. Plate G, cabinet trimmings, and Plate 7, hasp locks and hinges, give (\\ule a complete selection of require- ments for the amateur craftsman. It is unfortunate that screw hooks and eyes are not named according to their shape, but instead they are listed by numbers which vary in different catalogs. Plate 8. Plate 9 shows many different articles in hardware required in different parts of the household. Shop Kinks and Information Use a brad awl to bore for fine brads to prevent splitting the piece. Do not put water in hot lead— it will explode. To do soldering the iron must first be tinned. File the point to brighten the surfaces, then heat the Iron and rub in a hole on a piece of salamoniac containing a drop of solder. If properly tinned, the iron will appear bright and shiny. The iron must be k"pl clean and well tinned. A good fiux must bo used, and the metal to be soldered must be thoroughly scraped and 16 PLATE *^^^=:^::^==— =^ mZ ---liners' ^«a»=^ lettering brush Glass Cutter Round Nose Side Cu t ting Pl iers Bar Cabine t Cla mp PLATE 6 n CornirOrAnoleIrons Mending Plate Corner Brace Cabinet trimmings brass boxcorncrs UNFINISHED VJOOD KNOBS CHEST HA NDLE Glass KNOBS J y^ Box HANDLE POL I SHED Brass Knob Drawer handle BRASS SCREW KNOB Card HOLDER Drawer Pull Porcel ain Shutter Knob DropDrawcrPuu Box Pull t ,^.>T' CARDHOLDERgPULL pi^u^^p/^Q FLUSH DRAWER PULL BOX PuLL SPRING Or Fric tion Catch IS PLATE 7 HASPS Stlel Hinge 5l iOes Hasps 'L ocks-hinces Locks Box Ca tch m DRAVJER LOCH Suit Case LOCK WARDROBE Lock SUI TCASECA TCH£S Hinges BrassButt Ball Tip loose fim Hinge T Hinge Friction Hinges Strap Hinge FAN C YBOXH/NGES PLATE 8 19 ScP£ M HrioK ^tmtm SCREVi HQOK ,--J; Scffcvi Eye ■' ^\\ I i f^ BrassShouloerMook Brass Cup Hook HOOKS AND EYES ^(^^ — .^^-^ W/PC GATC HOOK ANOEyC Ring And Staple razor Strop Hooh ^ Hitching Ring WROUGHT GATEHOOKAnOSrAPLE ..-.J ^' '^ Picture NooH \J-<^ \j? Y - -- -— - WIRECEIUNOHOOK COATANDHATHCON Hook audeve Robe hook Brass Screw Ring mna [fflHHJtii'O) Kitchenhook Co A tAnd Ha t Hook Floor Hook Robe Hook PLATE 9 LincClcat HARDWARE GA5TEFIS Springcotter SHCLF BRACKET Shelf Rest DOOR Button Corruca ted Fas tener Turn BUCKLE double eye Bolt E.LB0V1 Catches CRIP NECKSOCKF- t Square Plate Sliding Or Dome \NA5HERS VJROucH T Lock Cast viasher AwN/NG Pulleys Screw Pulleys ^m OPEN INCL 05CD Rivets IR ON RIVET T Tinners' Rivet m COPPER Rivets, Burrs \ mi. ^ TUBULAR Rivet Slotted Clmch Rivet Rivet SetAndHeader BITS AND DRILLS 21 sanded, and covered with the flux. To do good work the joint must be heated to the melting point of the solder. Never use anything but a pencil for laying out a bevel or a chamfer. When planing a bevel or chamfer, hold the work in a hand screw. Use a washer cutter for making wooden wheels. For wheels on small carts use wooden button molds. When driving screws in end grain, first bore a hole at right angles to the path of the screw and drive a plug in the hole. The threads of the screw must pass through the plug. Use bank pins for joining toys as they can be ob- tained in any length. Before gluing two surfaces, first score with the point of a knife diagonally across the surfaces. This makes an opening for the glue to work into. Always wipe off surplus glue with a damp cloth before it sets. When pulling nails with a hammer, place a block between the work and the hammer head. Place the coping saw blade in the frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle. For best results use Vs inch pin end blades. Bits and Drills Bits and drills, (Plate 10), are used for making holes in different kinds of material. It seems tiultc difficult for most boys to tell from the numbers on the shank of the bit what size hole that particular bit will bore. This is very ea.«:y if you will keep in mind the following information. Auger bits are numbered in sixteenths and are graded in size from :i 16 to 20 IC in., or l'/, in. Twist drills or drill bits are numbered in thirty-seconds and range from 3 32 to 18/32 in., or 9, IG in. Drill points are numbered in sixty-fourths and range from 4 G4, or 1 IG in., to 11/64 in. Electricians' bits run in length from 18 to 24 In., and bore % to % in. Extensions from 20 to 30 in. can be added to this length. Expansive bits u.sually have two sets of cutters and will bore % to 4 in. in diameter. Forstner or center bits are used for boring in thin wood that is liable to split. Forstner bits are used for boring holes nearly through a piece where it Is neces- sary that the spur should not come through on the other side. Countersinks are made in different varieties and cut at different angles to countersink wide and shallow or deep and narrow. A handle to fit the shank of a coun- PLATK in Bits ^^ Drills. AuotR Bit Smor-t OowtL Bit CICIC' £>ou9l£ 3t/vcrL£ ThRF.AP TmREAQ Scpaw Point POiN T GORir^O GiMLCT Or (l l Fop Wood DfiiLL For M^t/^l Or Wood T\NiS7 Drill FOR MaT^L BRADS, SCREWS AND FASTENINGS 23 tersink, bit, drill or screwdriver is convenient whore only a little work is to be done. Bit flies are necessary for sharpening bits and arc specially cut, having some sides left smooth. Washer cutters are made for cutting washers and gaskets of leather, rubber and other material, but may be used for making wooden wheels. • Bit gages are made in dif- ferent styles and are convenient as they stop the bit cutting at a certain depth. Many varieties of braces, hand drills and automatic drills are made for holding bits, etc., for ordinary drilling. Special types are also made to be used for drilling where It is impossible or awkward lo use the ordinary common or ratchet brace. Brads, Screws and Fastenings Most fastenings come in different sizes and lengths. For the purpose of determining these sizes, certain gages are made. Plate 11. It is necessary to know the sizes of nails, screws, bolts, etc., as holes of the proper size must be bored for these fastenings, otherwise small parts will split by having the fastenings forced into them. Rusty screws, bolts and nuts are difficult to remove. To remove screws, apply a red hot iron to the head of the screw, then use the screwdriver while the screw is still hot. For rusty bolts or nuts, apply kerosene and allow it to stand until the rust has softened. Try to start with a wrench, but if it does not start easily, rap on one end with a hammer, or a hammer and cold chisel. This will usually start a ruste<l nut or bolt without twisting off the bolt. It is ncHiessary to countersink for flat head screws but not for round head screws. Nails come in different sizes from two penny lo sixty penny. Those larger than si.xty penny are known as spikes. Following is a list of lengths: 2d 1" No. 15 wire lOd 3" No. 9 wire 3d I'/i" No. 14 wire 12d 314" No. 9 wire 4d V/z" No. 121/3 wire 16d 3'/i" No. 8 wire 5d 1%" No. 12 1/2 wire 20d 4" No. 6 wire 6d 2" No. 111/2 wire 30d 4^4" No. 5 wire 7d 2'A" No. 111/4 wire 40d 5" No. 4 ,wlre 8d 2V2" No. IQi/i wire 50d 51/2" No. 3 wire 9d 2%" No. 10 '/i wire 60d 6" No. 2 wire Box nails run from 4d to lOd; casing and finishing from 4d to Id; flooring from 8d to lOd, and brads from % in. No. 20 to 3 in. No. 11. Screws run in vari- ous sizes from 14 in. No. to 4 in. No. 24. Tacks, staples, lag screws, bolts and nuts come In different lengths and gages. Screws, bolts, set screws, nuts, etc., var>' according to the number of threads per inch. 24 PLATE 11 Nails. Brads. Screws ^^ Fastenings. Bolts ^■"^ Common Wire. pKI'Jt OR ^MOQ-TH Box Screw Nail (» Casing Finishing Chair St^T Flooring Brad | Rubber Heap Shingl e CiOAR Box Brads Furniture Screws Flat head Oval head FiouND Heap Dowel ' 'f ^=^"" y£^s& Hand ff^/L Cut 1 1 Gimp Till Uf Carpet nn Double Pointed Escutcheon Pins Staples c WROUGHT Steel Fence C~~. cz Poultry- Net Blind Machine Stove Bolts Flat Head Round Head Iron Cap Screw Iron Set Screw Machine Screws mms^ wms^ MMy£ Flat head Round Head Fillester head SANDPAPER AND FINISH Sandpaper and Finish Sandpaper is made by sifting specially graded sand or other abrasive on paper, the surface of which has been covered with glue. It is used to wear down sur- faces and to give a smooth finish. Tlie sand used is graded from very fine, four naught (0000), to K. and coarse from 1 to 3. Always sandpaper with the grain of the wood. When sanding rough wood it is quite convenient to place the sandpaper on a l)lock. The block may he made of wood, or better still, several thicknesses of beaver or wall board glued together. A block of heavy felt is very good as it will conform to irregular surfaces. The sandpaper placed on the fingers alone should only be used in rubbing down a finished surface. When start- ing to sandpaper a piece of work, first use coarse paper and finish with very fine. A few drops of oil applied to the last piece used will produce good results. To preserve wood and other materials from the elements, and to add beauty, they must be treated in some way. This is known to the trade as finish. As It is quite difficult to apply finish without splash- ing and spattering during the process of mixing and applying, a special place for the work is necessary. If the work is done at the bench, the bench top should be covered with papers, for it is only a very careless person who will mar the top of his work bench wllli paint, stain or varnish. It is not always convenient to wear gloves to pro- tect the hands from the stain, but if soap is forced under the nails by scratching on the bar before begin- ning the work, the nails will be kept clean. If the nails are clean, turpentine, gasoline or soap and hot water will put the hands in good condition. By using waxed paper, such as comes wrapped about bread, to hold rubbing materials, the hands will be protected. The nature of tlie object, the use to be made of it and where it will be placed or used, will determine the kind and degree of finish required. Finish The article may be painted, enameled, stained, shel- laced, varnished, oiled, waxed, etc., but the number of coats or polish necessary will depend upon the require- ments of the object. Tlie spreading of paint and enamel, and applying a rubbed or a French polish, requires practice. For In- formation on the mixing, application and the amount of finish, paint catalogs or books on finish should be consulted. Free books can be obtained at most paint stores, and there are many books at the public library. Most models are finished by first preparing the sur- face with a plane and sandpaper. 26 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS The most simple finish is the oil finish, produced by the application of boiled linseed oil cut with a little turpentine. Good results have been obtained by using lor mahogany, Acme Dark Mahogany No. 36, Acme Walnut No. 35. and Bridgeport R Y Golden Oak Stain. A good walnut or oak stain can be made by mixing the follow- ing — 3 parts lamp black ground in oil; 2 parts boiled oil; 1 part burnt umber, and G parts turpentine. If provided with cans of the following paint — white, black, red, yellow and blue — any color can be produced. For example, red and yellow make orange; yellow and blue make green, and red and blue make violet. By adding white to any of these colors a tint of that color may be obtained. For example, green plus white gives light green. Do not paint one color joining another until the first has dried. If you do they will run together. Always apply shellac to knots before giving the priming coat of paint. Show card colors dry quickly, and if covered with a quick drying white varnish arc excellent for decorating toys. Paint, striping and lettering brushes should not be left to harden. Wash out in gasoline or gold dust and hot water. If set away, see that the bristles of the brushes are covered with water, oil or kerosene. Laying-Out Tools To do good work easily and rapidly, a workman, be he man or boy, must have tools and they should be good ones. Too often one sees a worker using tools for pur- poses for which they were never intended. Rules come in quite a variety of forms but those illustrated are used more than any others. The one foot steel rule is very convenient. Because of its thin- ness, measurements can be laid off along its edge very accurately. The two foot, four,fold rule folds com- pactly and can be carried in the pocket. Work that does not require great accuracy may be marked out with a medium grade pencil, the point of which should be sharp. Where great accuracy is re- quired as in the laying out of joints, a sharp pointed knife is essential. The sloyd knife is convenient but the jack knife can be carried in the pocket and will answer all purposes. The try square is essential for testing for square- ness, that is, to see if adjacent sides are at right angles to each other. It is also used for laying out lines drawn across the grain and for testing evenness of surfaces. Do not use it as a hammer. The framing square is larger and is used for work that is too large for the try square. The bevel is similar to the tr>' square. Unlike It, however, it has a movable blade that can be fastened in TLATF. 12 27 Laying-Out Iools. /■Ft. Stcel Rule. FR/>niNa 3ou/if>c rnm miiD mm mn |III|III|III|III|IIIIIMIIIIIIII|III| i -uiuiqujj ii TiBWililililitmiiliTirtfflitiliiiltitiW mm *?) Wk Sloyd Knife Jack Knife Tffv- Souaoe Blade Beam / Diviocas Sfua Madking CaC£ ■ Thumb ScKeyv HtAO Beam lcos 28 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS any position. It is us<'(l lor laying out and testing angles. The marking gage is used lor laying out lines along the grain of a piece of wood. The head moves along the beam and can be fastened by the thumb screw at any distance from the spur. As received from the factory, the spur is set accurately with reference to the graduations on the beam, but from use and sharpening it will not remain so. To insure accuracy, the rule should be used to check each setting. It is advisable in school shops to plane off the graduations and require the students to measure the setting. To lay out arcs and circles the pencil compass and dividers are used. Both legs of the dividers are metal while one leg of the compass holds a lead or compass. The compass can generally be used but for more accu- rate work the dividers are necessary. Plate 12. Saws A saw has a definite use that no other cutting tool can be put to and accomplish the work as well. Saws are used for cutting many kinds of material, but the ones considered here are for wood only. They are of two general classes, crosscut and rip. The cross- cut is used for cutting across the grain ami the rip saw with the grain. In order to accomplish the different cutting, it is necessary to have teeth of- special shapes. Plate 13. In Pigs. 1 and 2 we see the teeth of a crosscut saw from two positions. It will be seen from these figures that the edges of the teeth are similar to a series of knife points, and when forced across the grain the fibers are cut off. Note also that the points are bent alternately to the right and left. The bending of the teeth is called set- ting. Pig, 5. Note Pig. 3. As the blade of the saw is forced through the wood a saw kerf or cut must be left wider than the thickness of the blade. Otherwise the saw will bind and stick in the wood. The parts cut off called sawdust are carried out of the kerf by the motion of the saw. The rip saw teeth have a different action to perform, so are of a different shape. The rip saw cuts with the grain instead of across it. The cutting action is quite different. It might be compared to the cutting action of a chisel. Compare the shapes of the teeth in Fig. 2 and Pig. 8. Examine Pig. 7 carefully as it shows the cutting action. Pig. 9 shows a handsaw as generally referred to. It may be cross or rip. The saw shown in Pig. 10 is also a handsaw but is referred to as a back saw. The metal strip across the back stiffens it for accurate work. Planes The plane is one of the most important tools used in wood work. It is the most complicated and requires PLATE K! 29 K/ftV Of CUTTiNG Edge Of Cf^osscur 3^W FFiOM ^ao¥£ © Cf^OSSCUT 7e£TM, Showing BtvEu /^f^o 3h^pe . Note How Th£.\^ ^RE. Filed. 5aws. H^ND^^w ' (CfiasscuT Or ^/f>). C^OSS Sec TION SHOW/fVG Hoyv Cf^osscuT Teeth Operate iN Cutting. @ % Qack Saw. © ® Looking Down On Back Of Sav\/ Showing Set Of Teeth. View Of Cutting £PGE Of Rip Saw FFiOt^ Aeo¥£ Ano ^T j^N AA^OLE. V^IEW 3HOtVINC ^CTio/v Of Rip S^w Teeth. Rip Saw Heth Showing Shape , - Filed Straight ACAOSS. HAND CRAFT PROJECTS much skill to use it ijropiTly and to keep it in good condition for use. Old style planes were made of wood and adjusted by striking with a hammer. It was also necessary to joint the face from time to time. There are many kinds of planes designed for many purposes but the principle of their operation is the same as the bench planes shown in Plate 14. The planes which are most commonly in use are the jack, smooth, jointer and block planes. Should it be possible to have only one plane in your equipment, let it be the Jack plane. Buy extra blades for it and sharpen them to shapes to take the place of the other planes. The use of these different planes may be described as follows: The jack plane is used for removing stock in rather large quantities, that is, for making the first or roughing cuts. It is about 15 in. long. The jointer is from 20 to 26 in. long and is used to straighten sur- faces. Being quite long it will only cut on the high spots, thereby gradually bringing an uneven surface to one that is true. The smooth plane is 9 or 10 in. long and used only for smoothing surfaces. It can be used on irregular surfaces on account of the shortness of the bed. The block plane is designed for use on end grain, that is, at right angles to the general direction of the grain. The construction of the planes is shown by a sec- tional view showing all the parts in position, and the smaller parts are shown separately. The plane iron and plane iron cap, when fastened together, are known as the double plane iron. For ordinary work the cap should not be set farther than -{g in. from the edge of the plane iron. For cross grained wood make the dis- tance less. The lever cap holds the plane iron in position in the plane proper. Note the cam action when the small lever is forced down into position. The lever cap screw regulates the amount of pressure exerted on the plane iron. Turning the adjusting nut forces the plane iron in or out according to the amount of shaving it is desired to cut. The lateral adjusting lever adjusts the plane iron across the throat or mouth of the plane so the shaving will be even in thickness throughout its width. Planing and Scoring Rules First Method 1 Plane broad surface. Mark 1 2 Plane edge. Mark 2 Cut to length. Square other end. Mark 6 Second Method Gage width. Plane other 1 Plane broad surface. edge. Mark 3 Gage thickness. Mark 4 Square one end. Mark 1 Plane. 2 Plane edge. Mark 2 3 Plane one end square. Mark 5 Mark 3 PLATE 14 81 Planes. L'ATCRAl. ^OJUJTfMi LC¥Cf* ■SdCT,0/\i^L l//fkV O^ ^LAI^E. U/KaNE. HANOLt 46FfK>0 AOjust- /?- Knob ff^C SCA£W ^b-HANOce &OL.T 41 hanole a^d I4'KnOG ' KfsiOO 30LT i5'Plane 46'^f9oo Adjust- HA/>iOLt 3c/few INO PLATe. ib-^ANC Bottom 49- f^fK>o adjust- 32 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS 4 Gage thickness. Plane. 6 Gage width. Plane edge. Mark 4 Mark 6 5 Cut to length. Piano end. Mark 5 Scoring Rules 1 Hold beam on 2, draw 2 Hold beam on 1, draw across 1. across 2. 3 Hold beam on 1, draw 4 Hold beam on 2, draw across 3. across 4. To get a piece of wood to certain definite dimen- sions, it is necessary that the work be done in a systematic manner. To work otherwise will not obtain desired results. Select the better broad face and plane smooth and true. Plate 15. Test as Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, also diago- nally, and lay on a flat surface to test for wind. It should lay flat and not rock. This is called the -work- ing face and should be marked 1. It is from this face that all future measuring should be done and on it layouts should be made. Next plane one edge straight and square with sur- face number one. To test for straightness hold blade of the try square lengthwise on the edge. For square- ness, hold the beam of the square against surface num- ber one with the blade extending across the edge as in Fig. 3. Mark the edge 2. Now set the marking gage to the width of the fin- ished piece, and with the head resting against surface number 2 gage a line the entire length of the piece on surface number one. Plane to line, test as for side 2 and mark number 3. The fourth step is to reduce to thickness. Gage on surfaces 2 and 3 the thickness from 1. Plane off sur- plus stock and mark number 4. One end should now be sawed. Follow the scor- ing rules. Hold the beam of the try square against surface number 2 with the blade extending across num- ber 1. With a knife score a line across this surface. Next, holding the beam against the surface number 1, score across 2 and then 3. Then, holding the beam on surface number 2, score across 4. If your work is accu- rate the lines will meet so as to be continuous around the piece. Saw to line. Measure the desired length, score around the piece and saw as for the first end. While the first method is generally used, another method that will give very excellent results to begin- ners is indicated above. PLATE 15 33 Steps In Planing. Jt£P _f_- Plane Oi^e Broad SufiFAce SnooTH And True Test ^s Snot/^N In Fio I AND Fic 2. A Third Test Is Across D/aoonals. Hark One. Fio. I. Step ^ - Plane One £oo£ Stra/oht, And Square W/th One. Hold Beam Of .Square Against One, Blade Across Two. See Fig- 3. Mark Two. Step 3 — Oaoe Foq \A/iotm. Set Head Against Tivo A/vo Gace On One. Plane To Line . See Fig. 4. Mark 3. Step d — Cage For Thickness. Set Head Against One And Cage On Two And Three. Plane To Line . Mark a. One Fig. 4. ^r Step S — Saw One End. Set BEAn Of Square' Against Two And Scope Across One, Fig. 5. Next Set Beam Against One And Score ^Across TWo And Three , Fig. 6. Score Across Four With Beai~> On Two, Then Saw. Step 6 — /Measure For Length. Score Acrqss Surfaces ■^s In Step 5 And Saw To Length. 34 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS WORK BENCH This liench cun he niatlc liy the average boy. The vise screw can be purchaser] at any hanlware stiire for (10 cents. A metal bench stop will be found convenient. The lumber need not be any partlcuhir kind, some of the dimensions may be changed to suit lumber you have on hand. The legs are of the proper length for the average 12 or 14 year old boy, l)ut may be made longer to suit conditions. After getting the legs to the required size and shape, get out parts I and braces C, parts J and D, and the cross pieces which support the shelf. When these are cut to size, they may be assembled. The shelf may next be cut and fas- tened to the supports. l*^or the top, get liard wood, cut to size, and attadi to the frame, togetlier with the back apron E. I'arts B anil F will also give better service if nunic of hard wood. B Is made of four pieces held together with screws. F should be fitted to B before the pieces making up B are finally assembled. Fasten F to A, which should be made of hard wood. Hold the assembled pieces, F and A, in jjroper position on D and mark on the latter the location for the hole for the vise screw. Bore the required hole, then locate the petition of B underneath the top and fasten. A vise handle can be made from a piece of broom handle. Bore two small holes through the haniUe near each enil, place in position in the vise screw, and secure by driving pegs through the holes. The bench may be left natural, or it may be painted or oiled as desired. PLATE 16 35 -^H, Front Apron ^tv -ao- ^ -■ — r- ^7| Rear Apron /J il -ao- •WM\ =a * — T ^-z/- -</o- \: I// -^ \\l J ^R ^ Work Bench . T"r >''^,!"^. '^ LJJ 1-4^ ^H r- 13'- ^^ Hake Four '4 3 ■ir Make Four 36 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS COMBINATION BENCH HOOK Accuntc work Is absolutely neci^ssary. Evory piece nuist 1)0 ir.adt' to exact lUmenslons, all comers must be perfectly square, and the various pieces must be located accurately with reference to each other. Hard wood is the best material to use. (Jet out ;ill I)iocos to the dimensions indicated. First assemble miter box, observing directions on the drawing concerning location of screws. We now have a prob- lem of laying out an angle of 45 degrees. The following method will be found practical and not hard to understand : On the bottom of box lay out very accurately a square of a size equal to width of box, commencing at a point IVs" from the end. Carry the locations of corners thus established, by means of a try sqtmre, across sides of box to the upper edges. Saw from corner to corner very carefully. The result should be an accurate miter. Next fasten parts C and D together. Part B may next be fastened in place, and finally the miter box should be fas- tened to its position on C Tart A should be cut so the end grain of the piece will be next to end of miter box. As the length of a piece of wood is always measured lengthwise of the grain, you will have, in this case, a piece wider than it is long. Fasten A in position so the space between it and the miter box will be cquiil to the thickness of a saw blade. Finally, bore the hole for hanging bench hooli up out of the way. The miter box is not large, but is large enough for a great many uses. It is used for sawing at angles of 45 de- grees, such as the joints for a picture frame. As a bench hook, the device is used for sawing the ends of boards square. Lay flat on bench, as shown ia sketch. Place board against miter box. The sawing is done in the space between miter box and part A. To use as a shooting board, reverse position ;unl turn over. Place stock against B, turn plane on side resting on the ledge. By permitting stock to extend l>eyond B Jilightly, anu moving plane forward and backward on the ledge, very accurate work can be done. PLATE 17 37 COTOINBrTION BBNCH r q'QOK. C.4 I V^rGP \ / -/5- •9 ?e2^Jl JJ5L^ ^ i(Ut ^-i«0 <wT r ii.._Ji ""^M Parts fo be fasfened together wi/h scretvs. Locate so screv^s \^i/l not come /n sav\/ Kerts. Countersink a/ 1 ho/e^ tve//. Ac -^i 3" 38 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TOY PIG The first step Is to lay out your pattern for the various parts. Use thin cardboard for this. Squares should bo laid out as showu in the drawing and the outline traced in so tlie lines touch the squares in the same places thoy do In the drawing. When you are satisfied with your outlines, cut to shai'e with a pair of sharp shears. The next step is to lay the patterns on the wood fruin which the pig is to lie made, then trace ari.uud them. Th;^ hardist part will be the cutting to shape, especially the body. A band saw is the best tool for this, but as most boys will not have one available, the cutting will have to be done with a turning saw, or if you are very, very careful, you may be able In use a coping saw, though the stoclt is almost too heavy for this tool. Cut the various parts to shape and bore holes for thp strews. Great care must lie taken to see that holes on oppo- site sides of the pieces are exactly in linn with each other. Next sand all the pj.its and then assemble. At this point make your measurements for the grooves in the cart. No measurements are given for the reason that the distance between the l"gs might vary. If the toy is lirst assembled and the measurements then taken from it, iess difficulty will be encountered. The painting of the toy can best be accomplished by taking it apart and working up each piece sepai-ately. Tie a piece of string to each part, then paint and hang up to dry. The color scheme as shown on the drawing is to paint the body white and spot it black. You might paint the body black and spot it, white, or red and black may be used. Just paint it to suit yourself, but be sure your scheme will look like a pig. While these parts are drying the cart may be made. The wheeLs should be carefully laid out and cut to shape. Other than these, the cart will cause little tronl)Ie. Taint the cart red. Use washers between all movaldc parts. Thi". will make th^m operate more easily and also prevent the marring of the toy by rubbing. PLATE 18 39 M^H£ O/Vf Toy Pic /' / y ♦- \ ( \ \ 1 \ -- 7 \ i_ ^ i — - ■Im f r a - 'r Indicates Location Of Holcs For Scf>ews Paint White — Spot BuAct^ ■^to l I Place WyiSHEns P^iNT Cart ficD ^— ^^ /■ <^'~^^ / \ ^ Z 5 t ^ I t t * \^ ^ i " S ^ I ± ^v J > / V ^ ^. V ^,- t i4- \ I K \ S 13 xi». ^s IS J^ 31 3 _, Make Two Of £ach ^ Between Movable Part^ Fasten Ears And Legj To Body With R.H. Screws. Th^-^^ D/mensions To Suit Finished Toy ifytr 40 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS CHILD'S MORRIS CHAIR One very important thing to remembiT in making this chair is that ail jiieces must be gotten out witli their ends perfectly square. The joints are fastened in two different ways. Be sure you thoroughly understand each ni( thod before you proceed. Notice the one where holes are bored part way through one member of joint. As the depth of these will depend upon the width of stock, calculate very carefully how far you should bore. As the hole in the other member of joint will run parallel with the grain, some means must be provided to give the screw a better grip than it would have In just the end grain. This is accomplished by placing dowels in such a position that the screw will pass through them, thus getting a good grip crosswise of the grain in the dowel. These dowels are also added to the other form of joints as a means of increasing their strength. Study the details of the Joints thoroughly to insure a proper understanding of their use. When all joints are made and fitted, assemble with the proper screws, then ftt and fasten bottom slats in place. Good work on this will add a great deal of strength to the chair. Measurements for slats are to be made after chair Is assembled. The holes In the wood, made by boring for screws, should l)e filled by means of dowels or plugs. Whichever method is used, it is important that the wood from which they are made should match the wood in the chair. In fastening arms to frame, care should be taken to have them the same distance apart throughout their length. Be sure your chair frame is perfectly square before back is fas- tened in place. If it is not, the back may not set properly. Should it be slightly out of square, it nuiy be sprung enough to true it up, by adjusting the slats. The back is fastened to the rail by hinges, and is held in the desired position by means of a bar which fits In slots cut in the amis. A cushion can be made if you secure the help of your mother or sister. Paint or stain the chair according to the lumber you have made it from. PLATE 19 1' .L ri's''' U-\ ^ IB 'Ti' \^ Pluo Or Dov/tu Child's Morris Chair 3oR£ I Oecp* e F.HD.3cfi£w \V|^1W3 I P^ =^^3|{ ___ J Drill To Avoid Cor^FusioN . Front ir^i '^NO Top Viev^s Show Bac^^ " I /v Vertical Position Detail Of All Joints Line (E) ■A Drill e fiHO Screw Joint Betwcln Front Legs And 1h 5iot Rails, And ^ ti - -■- -. \ &ACK Leos >i Dowel — T ^ FH6 Screws ^ Plugs 'val Method Of Fastening Wfi'" ARtts To Leoj Acciya^TE Fitting Ano Fastening Of Seat Slats Will Add Strength To The Chair This Young Man Is Quite Pleased With The Chakir He has Made For his Little 5l STtR 42 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS CUTTING BOARD The hoard can he mailp of soft or hard wood, though, of course, the latter will give niueh better service. liirch or maple are very good woods for the purpose. The first thing to do will be to square up your board to the overall dimensions. In addition to the working drawing, there are four drawings showing the steps to follow in laying out the board. Figure 1 .shows the board after it has been squared to the proper dimensions, and with a center line extending the length of the piece. Figure 2 shows line drawn on each siile of the center line and other lines at right angles to the edge of the board. The dimensions for the location of these lines should he determined from the working drawing. Figure S shows the two arcs drawn which give the outlines of the greater part of the handle. Figure 4 shows arcs drawn at the corners, and the centers for the one-inch holes located. The piece Is now ready to cut to shape. Bore the one-inch holes at the points indicated, also the %" hole in the handle. In boring holes, the boring should proceed until the spur shows through on the reverse side, when the bit should be starte<l from that side and the boring finished. Xext saw the outline of the handle and round the corners to the arcs drawn. As noted on the drawing, all edges should be broken. This may be done by slightly planing off the corners and finish- ing with sandpaper, or it may be done with a spoke shave. Making the edges oval shape by means of the spoke shave gives a very good finish to them and may be tried if desired. This shape is not shown in the drawing, as the board with the edges just broken answers the purpose very well and causes less work to make. No finish is required for this board. Some people think they add greatly to the board by oiling It, but this .-should not be done owing to the food absorbing the oil when the board is in use. PLATE 20 4S 3t£Ps In Layino Out After Board Is SouAaco Up Fig I Fig. 3 w- Cutting BOjArd. Fio e 1 '■m -n — Material. — Hard, Closc Grained Wooo Break All £oo£S -Ji 44 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TOY CANNON This •auiiou can be luadf wlthimt the soUliiTs, but it will bo inort.' intert'stiug if the soldiers are made to shuot down. Begin work on part A. After laying out, the stock can bo cut to shape with a back saw, smoothed up a bit with i «hii-el and rini>hed with sandpaper. Make B the Itarrel, and note the chamfers only run part way down the barrel. (Ireat care must be taken to bore the h.ile straight. Locate the centers on both ends by drawing diagonals, then bore half way from each end. Next make the axle E and then the wheels. Lay them out with a pair of sharp dividers, scoring rather deeply at the circumference. This will give a good line to work to. Re- move stock with coping saw and linish with spoke shave, file and sandpajier. Bore holes at center. Whittle out the jiUinger and bore a hole for the rubber liand. On |)art B, as indicated, a tack is driven on each side over which to loop the rubber band running through the handle of the plunger. The tacks must not extend Into tho hole in B, or the plunger will not work freely. Assemble the parts, using brads and glue to hold them together. Of course there should be some ammunition. For this use small round sticks about two inches long, of a diameter that will permit them to fit loosely in the barrel. There should be something to shoot at, too. A plan for a soldier is shown and there should be at least six of them made. The soldiers are cut from cardboard and tacked or glued to blocks of wood to make them stand. Paint the soldiers, using several colors to make them attractive. Also paint the cannon. It is suggested that black be used for parts A, B and E, and red for parts C and !>. . PLATE 21 45 Small tack each S/de to hold rubber band Toy Cannon. 3oJdier - make s/x noke one iiir Hake (/to. 46 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS BATH ROOM CUP HOLDER This is a littlo convi'nienco that muthiT wili appreciate, as it looks very untidy to have a drinlting glass or cup ;;pttiDg around with no place for it. The dtslgn shows (he shape of the holder octagonal. This can bo varied if it is desired to do so. For Instance, it might be made round, or hexagonal in shape. There is also plenty of room for an expression fif your own ideas in the design of the back piece. Very little material will l)e required for this holder. AI most any kind of wood will be suital>le for use, as no doubt It win be painted. If you decide to change the design, make your drawing.; before you start work. The work on the back piece will be very easy, the other two parts requiring more care. The bracket supporting the octagonal piece should be laid out by the square method, as no compass curves are used. A coping saw can l)e \isim1 in;- sawing the bracket, but it will have to bo used carefully, as the stock is rather thick for such a i^niall saw. It is suggested that the part fur the bolder be laid out but not cut to shape until after the hole is bored. An ex- pansive bit will be necessary to do the best work, though It is possible to do a fairly good job with a gouge. In boring, bold the stock in the vise crosswise of the grain, otherwise the large bit will split the stock. The bottom of the hole will have to be smoothed with a chisel or gouge and sand- paper. After boring the hole the outside should be worked to shape. Bore required holes for fastening together, sand- paper well, then assemble. No sizes are specified for the screws. Use only heavy enough to do the work. Round- head screws will, of course, look better for fastening the holder to the wall. Paint to suit the woodwork or wall to which it is to be fastened. PLATE 23 47 Fort ReauineD OcT^ao^/. Lay Out Squ/>»c Of ReauiReD S/z£ ^s ABCO FiAjo CCNTCK O By D//^aofj/»L-3 FfiOM Cof*Nens A, 3. C -^/v^ O. With R/^oius £9<jml To 2 Of a D/y^ao/\f^t-, F As AO, S^/NO AAC3 Loc^T/A/a O, H, I ,J, K , CoNNtcT Thcsi PoinTa 48 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS SKATE SHARPENER It is very hard for an amateur to holil the Hie iu the proper position when sharpening sliatcs. This sliatc sharpener will mcehanienlly hold the face of the file parallel to the face of the skate runner. Of course there are different ways of sharpening skates. If you wish them hollow ground this .sharpener will cot do. Take them to an expert skate sharpener and he will hollow grind them with an emery wheel. The base of the sharpeil<'r is %".\2i/."xll" and may lie made of soft wood, but the two top pieces should be maile of oak, maple, birch or other hard wood. These parts receive considerable wear. Select the file you expect to use iu the sharpener and make two thin pieces the thickness of the file. They are to be bradded to the base one on each side of the file. Now make the two pieces of hardwood, to be fastened over the other pieces and part of the lilo. A space should be loft between these i)ieces just Wide enough to allow the skate runner to pass through freely. Use 1" flat-head screws t" fasten these pieces. When the pieces wear bore new holes and set them closer together. To use the sharpener clamp the skate in a vi^e and push the file across the skate, holding it as firmly as possible. The sharpener should not rock sideways. Test for sharpness by holding .skati's in the same position as blades of a pair of shears. If sharp, they should cut tissue paper when worked as shears. A sharp skate will not slew sideways. Notches filed lengthwise in the end of the blade at the heel will aid iu making a quick stop which is necessary when playing hockey. PLATE 23 40 Skate Sharpener. /? - THicHfl/ess Of Sha te B Thickness Of Filf 50 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS STEAM ENGINE Experimenting wltli this engine will be great sport, but do not make the mistake that one boy did and think it un- necessary to have a safety valve or make weight too heavy. Make platform A and nail cleats B to it ; also C and D, and fasten to A, but use screws Instead of nails. Find an old hlcj'cle pump for a cylinder. Bore a hole in the handle end. File off finish and solder a piece of brass tulie to the end at right angles. The tube also has a hole bored In it, making a passage from the tube into the pump. Flatten out the end of the plunger rod from the pump. This Is to be the piston rod. Bore hole in flattened part for fastening to tlie connecting rod. Remove plunger from piston rod and cast a lead piston on It, as at M. Make mold Ijy boring hole in piece of wood. Hold rod in hole and pour hot lead around it. File piston to fit cylinder. It must be well fitted or steam will escape past it. Cast a piston on a piece ot stiff wire to fit the tube — this is part L. Cut a piece of tin and solder to cylinder. Carve out a place for the cylinder in E. Fasten cylinder to E by screws driven through the tin. Get a shaft and tube to fit it for a bearing as at N. File ends of shaft square to fit holes made in C), II and O. Solder tin to tube to fasten it to E. Make fly wheel of heavy wood and bore holes for lead to add weight. Make parts F, J and I. I is to keep J from rubbing on fly wheel and H is a pulley for connecting engine to other mechanism. Part K is made of hard wood and connected to O with a sciew. Assemble all parts. Oil movable parts. Adjust length of wire on small piston or valve so when cylinder piston is at the end of its stroke the port hole will be open for the steam to act against the piston. As the cylinder piston is forced out the valve piston runs past the port, allow- ing the exhaust to pass out of the tul>e. Make boiler from any large can and heat on a kitchen stove. PLATE 24 SI 52 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TOY ELEPHANT The ek'phnDt is a vtT.v attractive toy auil tlae cart is a very important ijart of it, l)ecause on it .Mr. Elcpliant can do ail sorts of triclis. .\U parts of the elephaut will have to he .cut out with a turning or coijing saw. The turning saw is liftrder to use but will he found more satisfactory on the thick wood. Lay out your patterns on cardljoard Iiy method indicated in the drawing. Transfer them to the wood from which the toy Is to be mrale, being Especially careful that all the holes' for the screws are accui-atelj located. It is quite important that the holes in the body be located exactly opposite each other. Bore holes, then saw to shape and sand well. Before painting, the parts should all be assembled and tested to see that they are all properly related to each other. .\ii\ nf..-ssary alterations should be nulde at this time. Place washers liotween movable parts and take measurements for the grooves in the cart. Make the cart and fit the feet to the grooves. The wheels can be sawed out with the coping saw, or wooden button molds can be used. Wooden button mollis make good wheels, as they are nicely sanded and have holes bored for the screws. ■ In painting, try to get a color that looks like an elephant. A dirt.v or muddy gray is the nearest I can descril)e it. I'aint the toes black, the tU5ks white, the eyes white with a little black around them. Put a bit of red around the mouth and in the back of the eye. The car should be painted entirely red. All parts should be painted separately, so it will be necessary to take the toy apart to do this. PLATE 25 S3 Cut Out As Indicated, For 'PtiL Toy Elephant * This Indicates Location Of Holcs Fon Scortvs Paint dooy A Huoor CfiAy. Ji.—- i-^--^4^-4 1 1 1 \ /^ 1 \ij 1 •f fi+ r* \ ^ ' '■ \i V ! k^ Lfc^^j ll ' + - 1 1/ \, ^ ^ 1 1 _, ^ V 1 >^ i 1 Jjj •1 i~r-rT 1 1 1 1 ~i^r Ti r ; k-)-Nl ( / ♦: i) XT, ^ 1 \ ill /, \\ .T i' 1 V ~ ^ \l \ / Use A 1^- 6 F.H. /^^^g j-^gji. tiAHE Two For Tail, And Dimensions To Suit I3 P>l-I For Legs Fii^ished Toy And E/>RS Make. Two Make Two ;> n ' 1 M WVyij/z/ra HAND CRAFT PROJECTS FEEDING BIRD This toy can be ninde from pieces of cigar l)ox or other scrap thin luuil)er. Begin liy making the liottom, or part A. Square the piece up niceiy and with a pencil compass and freehand curve lay out acconling to the drawing. Cut to lino with a coping saw and finish edges with sandpaper. Bore holes on center line for -string. Make B and fasten to A with cigar box nails. Use a brad awl to make holes for the nails so the piece will not split. Part C Is a pill box cover. It is to be fastened to A wit)! a tack, but should not be placed till after the toy Is painted. Two pieces like part D are needed. Lay out from a center line. Bore liolcs with brad awl for brads to hold the head and tail. Make tail E and head F, after which the Irregular part G Is required to assemble the bird. Glue G In place between parts D. These paits may be braddcd If very fine brads are used. Drive a staple and screw hook In the bird as indicated. Tie a piece of thread or cord in holes made In neck and tall and thread through holes In A, which should be counter- sunk to receive knots. Drive staple in A and screw hook In B. Loop an ordinary rubber band once or twice, ds neces- sary, around hooks In B and top of body. Adjust and knot cord threaded through holes in A. The bird is held In posi- tion lietween these strings and the rubber band. Tie a piece of cord to staple In bottom of body and thread through staple in A. Hold A by handle In left hand and pull oord, making the bird lower his head and tail as if eating. Colors are suggested for decorating the toy on the draw- ing, but other combinations may be used. Show card water colors make good paint for this toy. To produce a luster they should be covered by a quick-drying white varnish. PLATE 26 Feeding Bird P/iRT A Part B h 4-' -t1 Part F ,\ /T — -^ X 1 - '* ^ ^1^ i s » 1^ \ u — — 2 — — ^.. 1 1 1 ;::i-i^ » G^een Pulltlei-c 1 — " — i'^ ♦ M ^%^ p '" '■Z ♦ M 1 )^^ $6 HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS FLYING PROPELLER This tuy Is one boys like to make because ouo ran bo made in a short time. Tilt' materials needed for making the toy are a piece of broom handle, an empty spool, an eightpenny nail, two l-incb No. 16 wire brads, a piece of tin and a good t^trong string. Cut the broom handle to dimension and with a knife and sandpaper work to form, rounding one end nicely and cutting a shoulder on the other. Bore a hole in the shoulder end large enough to receive the nail. Drive the two brads in one end of the spool ^w" apart. File off the heads and round the ends. Place the ppool on. the nail and drive the nail into the handle. Drive the nail just far enough so the spool will work freely on it. Ijay cut the propeller pattern on a piece of paper. A pencil compass may be used for some of the curves. Trace til'.' iiattt-ru on n stiff piece of tin or galvanizi-il iron. Use a scratch awl or sharp nail for marking. Bore two %" holes with a hand drill or punch them with a nail. If the latter method is used, file off the hurr. Cut to lino with a pair of tin shears and bend the ends as indi- cated by Fig. 2. This toy should not be operated in the house or near a crowd, because when the propeller leaves the spool it leav^-s with considerable force and is liable to break anything fragile it might strike, or cut a gash if it should strike anyone in the face. To operate place the propeller on the brads, wind the string about the spool tightly, hold the handle in the left hand, pulling the string with the right. At the same time tho string U; being pulled raise the left hand with a jerk, throwing the propeller flying into the air. PLATE 27 Fl YIN6 Propeller Brads —HI ■oia ii'j II II -l)-!i- Spool 1 1 I I TT Broom W\ ^ Propeller Fisi Fig.Z. Top Vi£W Fkont Vievi 58 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS POTATO GUN The material for the ijiilato or pop gun consists of a piece of tube anil a plunger. The tulie may be either metal or glass, but tiie material of which it is made must t)e very tiiin so it will cut through the slice of potato readily. For the tube a piece of Vl" or %" tubing or a large quill should be found ami cut about i%". The ends must he cut even, and not have a burr on them. If the walls are not very thin, file sharp at both ends. Make a plunger to fit the tube. However, it Is not neces- sary that It lit the tube tightly. Whittle the plunger from a piece of wood, making a shoulder at the end of the handle. The handle should be of larger diameter than the tube. The distance from the shoulder to the end of the plunger should be about 1 Inch less than the length of the tube. It must not run all the way through the tube when pushing out a load. Trepan' the ammunition for the gun by slicing a good- sized potato Into V.-lnch slices; if thinner the tube will not hold the air. Lay a slice of potato on the table and press the tulle through it. When you feel the tube strike the tahlc, twist the tube, making sure the potato is cut all the way through. With the plunger push the pillet to the other end of the tube. Remove plunger, cut another piece In the end of the tube, and then with a quick push of the plunger force the last pillet up to the first. The compression of the air will f >rce the first pillet out with considerable force and a loud pop. Should the sides of the tube be dented, or there be a • ■rack in the seam, the air will escape and the gun will not shoot. PLATE 28 so Potato Gun Pl unger -\'<- — - •f' File Sharp Tube Gun assembled - ■■ \^g^.\r-j^.z : f.zr.z r-.zrs.- )f 1 - 1 GO HAND CRAFT PRf)|ECTS A WOODEN DOLL This iloll is just the tMns for the little folUs ijccausc it will st:iiul iiiiiny tumbles without l)rpaliin(;. It will staud civet, with its arms in many positions, without falling over. It can also sit on the floor, stand on its head or hands, and l>p plaeod in many other amusing positions. Tliere is no reason why it should be a boy d(dl. If yciu prefer a girl, a skirt and sun bonnet will quickly transform it into a girl doll. The doll Is to be painted, so use any kind of wood. Make the body lirst. Ho all the straight sawing with a common saw, but saw the head with the coping saw. Now make the legs according to the pattern, rinimling the end with a chisel and sandpaper. Bore holes, for the screws a little larger than the shank of the screw and counter- sink for the head. If the screw is too tight the' movement of the leg will soon turn It out of the body. The arms are practically the same as the legs, except that the layout on them is not so difficult. The arms should fit well, so the doll will be properly balanced. Lay out with a pencil the features, etc., or if you ai'e not very e.xpert at drawing have someone do i1 for you. Little children who play with toys of this kind like liright colors, so any condiinijtion of l)right colors will be desirable. The following combination is suggested : Pants blue, shirt red, face white, hair and features black, shoes black or brown, stockings and tie gre<'U, and cuffs and collar yellow. Two coats will be necessary. Do not try to paint to a certain line with one color and tlien continue with another, while the first is still wet. If you do the colors will run together, siwiliug the looks of the toy. Let one color dry thoroughly before applying the next. PLATE 29 61 ^» AWooDEN Doll LEG Pattern V -4. :' 1 ' ---'' Al (■. i "- 1 HEJ\D And Body fiRM Pattern -yr~ TX. zSv 63 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS A THANKSGIVING GOBBLER It can reailUy lie seen from thi' drawlns. which shows a staple and string attached to tho axh-, that this toy is to be drawn along the floor. The weight made of lead fitted Into the bottom of the axle causes the turkey to move back and forth, giving it the appearance of walking. Note the direction of the grain represented by the line lines on the different parts. Plane up a piece for the turkey and then trace In the pattern. Cut to form with a coping saw. Get out the piece for the axle. Be sure the ends are cut square. Bore a hole i^" deep for the weight and on the opposite side cut a groove for the turkey. Draw the wheels on stock prepared for them, with a pencil compass, and cut as perfect as po.iisihle with a coping saw. At the center bore a hole for the screw to fasten the wheel to the axle. Use a round-head screw and place washers on each side of the wheel so it will turn freely. ^'a^dpaper all parts and' glue the turkey in place after driving a staple in thi' axle. Paint the wheels and axle led, also the shaded part of the head of the turkey. The bill and part between the axle and breast and wing are painted yellow. The rest of the turkey is to be painted brown, or as near to a turkey color as you can mix. After this is thoroughly dry paint the feathers, wing and eye, and line on the bill, I)lack, using a fine striping lirush. The mold is made of two pieces. Lay one piece on the other and drive brads through one piece and a snort distance into the other. Clamp the pieces In the vise and directly on the crack bore a hole with a %" bit 1%" deep, so half of the cut will be made on each piece. Take the pieces apart and gouge out as at M. Place the pieces back in the vise and pour the mold full of hot lead. When the lead has cooled, re- move the weight, file smooth and force in the hole in the axle. Do not pour water on hot lead because it will explode. PLATE 30 63 Turkey A Th/)nks6/v/ng Gobbler -l«t- - — ^ w^ ' I i ^iil_SI J yj^~'"> t^2l 1 4'X '-'^/ri izj t^ " Js, V A^--;: "•> 3. !/ t t^- ^ .^^ -2, -7 . ■ - 1 L 3 -^ / "'- i;? ■^'^ - ^-i -IcVi -/ :r-: -7 ^t ^ \ - --^'■ ^^ i.-i5; ^ ^S ^-,-S^ -- \^.- —T. ^ ■^ N V < \ I I ii" .1 . '\' ' 4' WHEEL Axle ■t ,1 . r& N > 1 ^ -'-" ^•^4 ~^f 1! .t 1 1 1 ' T MOLD SrKifcM ■ Brad m^ "iA Cur Mold ji Deep -'^ LEADVJ EIGHT 64 HAND CRAFT PROIRCTS AEROPLANE WEATHERVANE The overall diniersions for body are indicated, but no definite dimensiims are given for curve at the back. Make this to suit yriursclf, but reiufmber there must be sufficient ai'oa to keep the vane headed into the wind. Bore hole for screw for the support after plane is assembled. Cut small slot for the rudder at the back of body, (.'et the slot exactly the right size so the rudder can be held in place without nailing. Get out the other pieces according to dimensions. In boring holes in wheel-axle hanger.s, be careful not to split thom. To avoid this, hold iu a vise crosswise of the grain. Make axle of (juarter inch <lowcl. Place in position in hangers and nail the latter to body. To make wheels, describe circles with steel dividers. liore holes in center, then remove stock very carefully. Cut dowels for supporting the planes, being careful to get ends square. Fasten planes to dowels by driving brads through the planes into ends of dowels. For wiring, use wire that bends easily. Bore holes with brad awl and place wires as shown. Fasten planes to body, then fasten rudder in position. The propeller will require careful work. Get out a piece %" square then describe a circle %" in diameter and lay out as shown. The propeller will be 1/2 " thick throughout its length but the width will vary from %" at center to %" at ends. A sharp knife will be best for forming the part. For fastening the propeller, a round-head screw or a nail with large head may be used. Bore a hole through center of propeller that will permit it to turn easily on the nail or screw used. Put in place with a washer between it and tnd of body. Balance assembled vane and bore hole for round-head sciew at point of balance. This should come for appearance about 4H" from front end. Should it not come at this pjint, secure the balance by attaching a small bit of metal to the lighter end. Suspend from any convenient support hy means of the stick indicated. It should turn easily. Paint machine gray, with red, white and blue stripes on the tail. On upper and lower sides of planes paint the design shown, in good proportion to the space it is placed in. PLATE 31 C5 ft&RQPLfyNE: Wfrt^Tt^ErRVPtNfc Detail Of 1 3-i % Circle A . Reo ST^f* B . Wmitc Circle C . Blue , Arm for hanging -from tree or other su p port ^ if Wire A, Red B . White C . Blue /jj '^/S" D/Offtetor -/z- W/re IT T HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS SMALL CART Not a Sfat amount of stock will bo rciiuircil for nuikiii;; the cart, but it is quite large enough to amuse a little boy or girl. If a larger cart is desireil, it is only necessary to increase the dimensions on the drawing. Get out the stocls to the overall dimensions, then lay out the euires. Those at the corners on the front and b,>ci< pieces are parts of a circle and can be made with a pair of compasses. The curves on the side pieces are made freehand. Measure in 3^" from one end, 1^/^" from one side, then con- nect these points with a pleasing curve. Finish one side first and from that lay out the other side, thus getting them alike. Use a coping saw to remove the stock. In making the wheels, great care should lie taken to gi't them e.xactly round. Lay them out with a pair of dividers, making a good line in the wood with the point. Saw very clo.se to the line and finish with a wood file and sandpaper. If this work is done carefully, the wheels can lie made very true. Bore holes at the centers for the screws. These holes should he only large enough to permit the wheels to turn freely. Washers should be used between the wheels and the axle as shown in the drawing, and it would be well to use them between the head of the screw and the wheel on each side. The use of the washers in this manner will cause the wheels to run more accurately. The box is fastened together with brads. The axle and handle are fastened to the bottom of the box with 1-inch flat- head screws. Be sure to locate the axle squarely across the box. Use a small piece of dowel through the end of the handle to grasp it by. The cart will be very attractive if painted a bright red. Children like liright colors and toys should always lie painted to satisfy this liking. PLATE 32 67 Small cart Washer- 68 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS RED CROSS AMBULANCE This toy will require careful work. The body requires ;i piece of stock lV4"x4%"xS". The method of laying out the jiattern is clearly shown iu the drawing. Remove the stock with :i coping saw. The hole for the steering apparatus should he bored before the parts are assembled, and from underneath the body. Lay out pattern for the fender and cut to shape with the coping saw. Two are needed. The axles are easy to make — two pieces i:j"i\</'xl%". The wheels should be perfectly round and may be easily made so if these directions are followed : With dividers set to the required radius, describe circles on the wood from which the wheels are to be made. Score deeply with the point of the dividers, leaving a line easy to work to. The stock may be removed with a saw and chisel, finishing with a wood file and sandpaper. The two crosses are very thin, so be careful not to split them. The ambulance is to be paiuted in three colors and it will be found best to paint parts of it before assembling. The axles can be attached before assembling. They are located %" from the front end and I'/s" 'from the rear end. Bo sure they are square with the body. Fasten with brads. The painting scheme is this: The entire body is to be nliite; the crosses, red; and the axles, wheels, fenders, and steering gear, lilack. A good way to do the painting is to drive small brads into the pieces, attach strings to them and then paint. As each piece is finished it can be hung up to dry. In driving brads into the wheels, drive them into the centers, as there are to be some driven in later for the wheels to revolve on. liound head screws and washers may be used instead of the brads if desired. The painting will be easier and will look better if the parts are well sandpapered. When the parts are dry, the ambulance may be assembled. In doing so. be careful not to mar the parts. The result of your work should be an attractive toy. PLATE 33 Red CR053 Ambulance, Body, uv/7//e Crosses, red Bo/a nee, b/ack. 4 Pattern for body. Make Pattern for fender MaKe two ^ flake four r IJ Li HAND CRAFT PROJECTS BABY'S ROCKING HORSE The stock needefl for this toy can l>o obtained from a packing case. Make seat first. Draw a center line with a sharp pencil the length of board. The other center lines are drawn at riy;ht angles to the first line by means of the square, their locations being 5" and G" from the ends. At the intersec- tions of center lines, place the point of your compass and draw circles of required diameters. Straight lines drawn from one circle to the other, just touching the circumference, give the outside edges of the design. With a turning or copinj; saw, cut close to outline, finishing with plane, spoke shave and sandpaper. Before removing the long center line, locate, lior.^ and countersink 3-l(>" holes for the screws used in fast, n- ing the head. For the head, square to dimensions and lay out 1-inch squares. Through these trace the outline according to pat- tern shown on drawing. Cut to shape and finish in same manner as the seat was finished. For the rockers make a pattern from cardboard and from it trace the design on the wood. Tut accurately to shape, being sure both rockers are exactly alike. To fasten rockers to the seat: Bore half inch holes part way through the rocker, boring the rest of the way with a 3-lG" drill. Before screwing rockers to seat, round off nicely so they will not mar a polished floor or pick the threads of a rug. Assemble the parts according to information contained in the t^p and front views of the drawing. The painting may be done more easily if the parts are separated. Before separating, however, mark rockers so they may he replaced in exactly the same position they were in before taking apart. Paint the head and rockers white and the seat red. Each part should be given several coats. Each coat should be thoroughly dry before another is applied, so do not permit your anxiety to finish the rocker cause you to put the second coat on too soon. When the white is dry on the head, paint the eye, nostrils, bridle and mane, applying black paint with a fine brush. When parts are re-assembled, the horse is ready for use, unless it is desired to add a thin coat of varnish to protect it from dirty fingers. PLATE 34 71 Rocker ^^1 B/\qY5 Rocking Horse P/iINT Wwre: J "IT"' — i — ' — '~~? — T <t ■» O Q M •<■ ^^— i- I t I t 79- SI] "^* ft-zi 0-3 d-2S." £ - 3" r-2l3" F- 3" 0-20. /-2i" Assemble Wi_r^ 2 "/Vg. /p Fi/}r/i£,sD Screws. Seat =rl HAND CRAFT projects JUMPING JACK This character will make an amusing toy, btit there is no reason why you cannot change it if you desire. It would '"• interesting to mal\o several toys, each representing a dilTerent character. This may he done without changing the operation. All that is neces:mry is to lieep the size of the parts the same as in the drawing. The? changing of the shape within these limits will not matter. In selecting stock, get a piece large enough, if possllile, o that all parts may be laid out on it. The patterns nmy I»e laid out directly on wood or on cardboard. If several toys are to bo made, use the latter method, for then the patterns may be used repeatedly. In either case, lay off squares accord- ing to the dimensions shown and trace designs so the lines will have the same relation to the squares as they do in the ilrawing. By this method, the parts you make will be quite like those shown. If one is skillful in freehand drawing, he may make the designs without the squares, and perhajjs according to his own ideas. This would add interest to the construction. It may be best to follow these designs the first time, after which you may experiment along your own ideas. When the patterns are drawn, cut out carefully. If they are on cardboard, lay on the wood and trace around them. In placing the design on the wood, be sure to have the grain run the long way of the piece. Cut to shape with a copiug saw and sand well. The various parts are held together wilb pins. Ilore holes witli a sharp bi-ad awl just large enough for a pin, at the points indicated on the drawing by dots. To assemble, insert the pins in the holes, cut off so the pin extends on the other side about 3-lG", and with a pair of round-nose pliers liend the end down with a twisting motion. D- not try to get the parts to fit tightly together — they should work freely. The toy will look better if it is painted. Use your own Ideas. For contrast, the upright should be of a different color than the other parts. One method is to use hlack paint, leaving the natural wood for the buttons, face, etc. PLATE 35 78 nm /t Pin ZJ; Brad i Jumping Jack. Required — One One Tv^O Paiajt V, / Toy To Suit OwA/ Ideas. All pieces -^ thicl< One ^\^ ■'^">5l[ y- Hake One /3 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS THE HULA DANCERS For tho bodies of the dancers select straight grained pine or white wood. Laj' out the faces and the location of the nails that hold the limhs in place. ■\\'ith a knife carve the head and face, rencil or paint in the features. The arms are cut from a tin can. Locate the holes and punch with a sharp 2" finishing nail. File off the burr caused Ity the nail. Fasten the arms to the body with cigar box nails, making sure that the arms fit loosely. Drive the nails until the head is about %" from the body. Make four legs of heavy cardboard. Lay out a pattern on paper. Trace the design through the rectangles as shown on the drawing detail of the leg. Cut the pattern and trace on the cardboard. Cut to line with a pair of shears or a knife. Fasten the legs to the body the same as the arms were fastened. Painting or staining of the body, legs and arms should be done before adding the skirt and wig. The skirt and wig are cut from scrap black and white fur. Make patterns of paper before cutting the hide. Glue the skirt and wig to the body. About %" of one end of the wig is glued to the top of the head, the rest being permitted to flap while the dancers are in motion. The longer the hair the better will he the result. Rabbit fur is very good. To operate the dancers, drive a pin In the under si<le of a chair rail. Tie a piece of black thread to the pin and nbout two feet from the chair tie the thread through the holes in the center of the arras. Stand about five feet from the dancers, holding the string at X in one hand and concealed from the audience. .Tcrk lightly and notice the dancing motion transmitted to the dancers. Place a piece of black cloth beneath the dancers' feet so the thread will not be noticed. Practice a few minutes before starting your exhibition. PLATE 36 75 I HE Hula Dancers Fur Skirt \ 4 f^M^ ' -7 \ ~ 7 ^/i"-H ' s ( \ /I ^ ^ / i> ^i u t:::TT /) Common P/n 3 Chair R/iil C Black Thre/id D BLACH CLOJiH E Tin Arm Cardboard Leg 76 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS MECHANICAL DUCK As this toy Is to t)e painted, it is possiljle to usr ailnost any kind of wood. The body, head and taii iieing made from wood of tlie same thicliness, select a piece large enough to make all three parts. Lay out the small squares as shown, being careful to make accurate measurements. Next trace the design through the squares, making the lines pass through them in the same relative position as on the drawing. Do not do this hastil.y — use great care so the outline will lie a good representation of a duck. Even greater care will lie required in cutting, for no matter how carefully you have traced your lines, unless you cut exactly to them, you will fail. Use a coping saw fur this. Make parts D and E next. Part D will need careful attention. First get out stock to the overall dimensions, then lay out and cut groove. As It is intended that the duck's feet rest in this groove for support, compare the thickness of the feet before you cut the groove to exact size. This is sug- gested for the reason that in making part C you may have made it a bit thin. The groove should hold the feet snugly in position. The last operation will be to plane the chamfer which runs only on three sides. Pay attention to the note on the drawing with reference to location of dowel holes. It Is easy to see what difhculty would be encountered if the holes were not opposite each other in the various parts. When all parts are finished, they should be assembled and tested for proper fitting and relation to each other. The small drawing at the right explains how the parts are fastened in place, and the method of operating. When the test is satis- factory, take the toy apart for painting. While it is possible to paint the parts when assembled, it can lie done with greater ease if they are separated. The parts should l)e well sand- papered before painting. When you paint an eye, endeavor to get it to look just as much like an eye as possible, and when you represent the feathers, use the same care. Careful and thoughtful work will produce a toy that will well repay your elTort. PLATE 37 T7 @ ® it- ,^2^--_Z._ r r-^-; : is;!:;;'!-; t t -^N/ -5 /- ^"^ " 1 "r ^n JJ^I ^-^ ,^^, iv fc) ^ : ^v^ ^ ^ Si s V ^^ ^ /- ^. s^^ -i^'--x ^ ^' f 'i \ ^ J- V -/'^ ^^ z ■> - /^ i --^ :r ,-^ J 2__ _ _ D 4-^ Brad 3^J D0VV£L Brad and Do\A/£L Are Checks For a - B 3' 6 Mechanical Duck. Paint - Body ^- Gray With White Wings. Head And Neck .Cray, Red Eye. White Crown, Yellow Bill Tail .- Cray And White. Fee t , - Yellow And Black. Feathers ,■ Black Stripez E,- Brown. ■^ DoW£LS View Of Parts Without C In Place ./• r^/l- ^<9 (i J^ -/ . 1 7^ -r^t Jl'^v^ ® Groove For C Not ^Shov^n Locate Holes On C By Means Of Squares. To Locate Holes X-Y On E. Put C In Groove , Then Place E Against C And Mark Through C On £. HAND CRAFT PROJECTS SCOUT FIREMAKING SET That this outfit is i)r!ic'tic;il has liccn ih-innnstrati-il by users who have won contests for speed in setting fires. Lay out bow acconling to detailed drawing. Bore a %" hole to form round part of cutout just ahead of hand-hold. With coping, keyhole or turning saw, cut to line of layout. Next niaki- holes for leather or buckskin thong. Finish bow by making all corners round, scraping with window glass, and smoothing with fine sandpaper. Spnnd plenty of time on this so the handle will be nicely rounded and all parts smooth and free from slivers. Rub bow with linseed or other oil, so If you are caught in the rain with it, the wood will not be affected. Thread the thong through the holes and hold by a brad pushed through leather so it cannot slip through the hole. The block D is made of oak. It is chamfered and has a screw driven about 3-lfi of an inch below the surface at the center, which acts as a bearing for the head of the round head screw In the end of drill C, Make drill of cypress, as this material will start the tinder more readily than other wood. It can be made round, left square, or have the corners planed off. One end is nicely rounded and the other has a screw driven half way into it. The tinder board is made of cypress. Lay out notches as shown, but before cutting with a saw, bore V^" holes y\" deep. The holes are to receive the end of the drill. To start a fire, make shavings of dry wood. Collect some dry grass and twigs. Place board A on ground, and below one of the notches place a bunch of tinder. Wind the thong on the bow about the drill as shown in assembled drawing. Place end of drill in hole, hold block D in the left hand on the screw in the other end of the drill. Grasp bow by handle with right hand, hold part A with whichever knee ig most convenient, then saw with the bow. causing drill to revolve back and forth rapidly. As soon as timber begins to smoke, remove board, pick up tinder and blow steadily on it, or swing it, holding in both hands until it begins to flame. PLATE 38 70 Cypress Boat I HoLts J OetP To y^ Aid /f\i STytflTlfJG C Place Nau rHRouGH THorjG At £. Loosen Or Tighten Tmong &y Changing Position Of Nail. ^3 TEN With Strong Tack I^RH. Screw 5COUT Hremaking Set. L£FT Hand Here Cyp ress (gs \ RouN O End CHj^nFER ■^ \-^'' Tinder ^S^ ^P .1 n. A.. ^------v:::.--:^{ ^.m^ Sore Holes For "-— ^ Thong As Shown By Dotted Lines Make Of Oak- Round ^All dooES Tinder Can Be Made By Frayino Piece Of Soft Manilla Rlace Knee ^ HEBE Oak ■:■ @ ?% ->. Shall FH Scre w To Serve As A Bearing For C ■"T. _! 80 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS BOB SLED This 'Irawins will roquiro (■iinsi(li'ral>lc study Iipforc ntteinpling to make the sled. It may be made to he pulled with the tongue or a pair of thills may be made for a dog or pony. The thills and tongue may I)e interchangeable. Begin by malilns the box. All the stocli Is %" thick except the dash, and this is %". Next make the Vi" strips that fit over the upper edges of the box. Get out the stock for the seat and the small cleats that are fastened to the inside of the box to hold the seat in position. Also the stiips that fit into these pieces and are fastened to the sides of the seat. Next get out parts 2 and 3 which fit under the box ami are bolted to it ; in other words the front and lack Irolstnrs. The back bolster is fastened to the box by two eye bolts, and also to part 4, by eye bolts hooked in those running up through the box. This allows the back bob to rock when going over uneven surfaces. The front bolster is bolted to the box and Is fastened to part 4 by a king bolt that runs through the box, and also part 3 and 4, It is secured by a nut under the bob. Make parts 4 and note the mortises in these pieces, into which fit the tenons on parts 5. Parts 5 should next be made and fitted to the parts just constructed, then work can be started on the runners, which perhaps will be the hardest of the work. Lay out the runners as shown by the drawing, cutting the mortises t)efore the runners are cut to shape. Angle irons should be fastened in the corners where parts 4 and 5 are connected. Also iron strips should be .screwed to the runners and parts 5. Make the tongue and spreader to which it is fastened. Tile latter is fastened to the runners with %" lag screws. Note a spreader is also required for the bacic bob. The iron runners or shoes may he put on at a blacksmith shop or you may do this yourself, as it is not difflcult. The scheme for painting the finished sled is indicated on the draw- ing by the letters. PLATE 39 81 r ■ > ife'i nr^^ 5C5 JZ.fZ). J/t£w Without Run NCR 5, £tc. ■^ ^-iPlfii'- ..-^/^c- ^3^F^. f:~. ^' -J w' Mater/al. 3mo£3 - Steel. ■/4/vg TH/M.L3 - OAn OTH£Pt Part^ -jAnv Coop Wood 82 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS A HIGH SPEED DRILL Years ago wlu-u tho Indians hail no matches thoy started their fires by working a how and arrow similar to the work- ing of this drill. The Chinese also use a contrivance like this one. with a weight on tup of the shaft for drilling hides "lu ilominoes. The drill shaft is round and may be planed from a square stick if you do not have a dowel rod about this size. Taper one end of the shaft to receive the drill point and bore a hole in the other end for the string. Make the fly wheel of heavy wood, as the heavier the wheel the better the drill will work. Lay out the fly wheel with a pair of dividers or a pencil compass and cut to line with a coping saw. The hole bored at the center should be a press fit on the shaft and should be fastened to it with glue. Use a piece of hard wood for the movable arm. Lay out the shape from center lines. Bore the hole before shaping the piece, to prevent splitting. Note that tlie hole in this l)iece is larger than the oni- in the fly wheel. Fish or chalk line should be used for assemiding the movable arm to the shaft. The line or cord used must not be stiff, but very pliable, so it will wrap about the shaft easily. Tie a knot in the cord each side of the shaft to keep it from slipping out of place. Thread the ends through the holes In the movable arm and knot several times. To operate the drill wind the string around the shaft by turning the movable arm on it. Then press down on the arm. releasing the pressure as the arm reaches the end of the down- ward stroke. This will cause the string to wind in the oppo- site direction on the shaft, raising the arm for the next stroke. A little soap applied to the shaft will cause the arm to slide easily. PLATE 40 83 A HIGH SPELD DRILL Fly v/heel NfllL DRIUS U li gnJ filed ehdfrafffnfJ ••^. CNINC3C Drilling Spots ONDomuoes. MOVABLE ARM 84 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS CRUMB TRAY A dark wood will l>p most suitable for this model. A light wood, it left natural, will soil easily, and if stained, the color will he affeeted by the dampness on the cloth that must occasionally he used to keep it dean. It made from gumwood, and given two or three coats of linseed oil, you will have a very attractive piece of work.. Get out your stock for the tray to the overall dimensions, then lay out the shape with fine pencil lines. The radius for drawing the arcs from points C anit D is %". The same radius is used for rounding the corners at the back of the tray. No radius is shown for the cornirs at the front of the tray. These are to be rounded to give a pleasing curve. To best show the shape of the finished tray, the end view is given as a section on the line AI? shown in the front view. The tool which is used most in this constru<'tinn is thi' ffoiif/e, one having the l>evel on the outside. It must be sharp. First practice using it on an old piece of wood. Com- mence removing the waste stock by working from the center to the outside. Keep away from the lines about Vs" until the roughest part of the work is complete, then finish carefully to the lines. The gouge is not an easy tool to work with at first and you cannot get as smooth surfaces as with a plane. I5e careful around the comers. It is necessary to have some kind of a hand-hold. The end view shows the curve crosswise of the tray and the front view shows the length and the curve at the ends. The tray is thinner at the front than at the back. Shape this after the rest of the work is complete, as it is easier to hold the piece in the vi.se or clamp if it is the same thickness all over. Lay out the scraper as shown. Saw the curve with a coping saw. Sandpaper all the work, and finish as suggested. Kemcm- hcr that sandpaper does not take the place of the plane, chisel, etc. Use it only after all the tool work is finished. PLATE 41 85 TRPtV -5^ -6" L <o "Sect/on T/,fU A 5 ScRPjPfcR ^. r 1«' 86 HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS A SIMPLE AND SERVICEABLE FLAG HOLDER tr some nther soft wihmI shimld I'l- il.M-ii.il fcir tliis iHilder. Start work on the liasi'. I'lane it to the r(>(4iiire(l (linu-ii- sions. then lay out tlip locations for the holes H and J. Draw two center lines, as shown, and on tlie center line running across the piece, marli points %" from each edge for holes nnirked .T. On the center line running lengthwise • of the piece mark points one inch each way from the center for the holes marked H. At these points drill 3-10" holes entirely through the piece. Countersink holes marked H on the bottom side of the base to receive a flat-head screw. Next with a sharp-pointed pencil lay out the Vs" chamfer all around the top edge. Never use a marking gage, as it will make a groove in the wood that cannot be removed un- less the chamfer is made larger than is desired. Plane the chamfer, holding tlw piece in the vise for this operation. Sandpaper well, being careful to keep sharp edges. It will Mfl.l 1 cilgi'S .M. N a ]|ll (> front end. I'iei,;ife :i piere li.r'the holder next. Bore a Inde two inches deei) to tit your Hag stick. Next lay out. as shown in the drawing, the parts to be removed, which are shown by ilnited lines. lieninve the parts with a plane. the appearance of the finished piece if re chamfered \s" back .1 ini-hes from the .\f(er finishing tlie holder with sandpaper, the parts are ready lo bi' ass"lnlded. They are fastened together wilh llat- head screws through the countersunk holes. Drive a screw through the top of the holder into the h(.de to be occupied by the Hag stick. This screw should be made lc> lit loosely, so it may be turned with the lingers, and its purpose is to hold the Hag stick in place so it is not blown out by the wind. , A desirable finish is to paint the holder to match the house or other surface it is to be fastened upon. PLATE 43 87 88 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TOY RABBIT A coping saw or a band saw will Ijo necessary for inal<iui; this toy. If you have tin- use of a baud saw, and am properly supervised in Its operation, the construction will be much easier. The work can be done well with the coping saw, but it will require n little mere effort on the part of the worlier. First lay out your patterns on thin cardboard. Lay out the squares as indicated and trace the design through these squares in the same way as they are traced through the squares of the drawing. Be very careful with this part of the worlt. You want this design to look enough like a real rabbit so your friends will not ask you where you got your dog. You will find it quite a task to get just the right outline. When the patterns are completed to your satisfaction, cut out with a pair of sharp shears. Lay them on the stock from which the toy is to be made and trace around them. Locate the holes with exactness. It is important that the holes on the right side of the body be exactly opposite the ones i>n the left side. Before cutting to shape, it will be well to bore the holes for the screws. Select the size screw you wish to use and bore accordingly. When all parts are cut to shape, assemble them to see if they have the proper relation to each other. If satisfied with this test, take them apart, smooth with sandpaper, and p.nint according to the suggestion on the drawing. Paint each piece separately and hang up to dry by meaus of small pieces of string. Make the cart next. Be careful to get the wheels round. The measurements for the grooves in the cart are to be taken from the iini.shed toy. Lay out and cut accordingly. Paint the whole cart red. Washers should be used between all movable parts for two reiisons. First, to make the parts work easily, and second, to keep from marring the painted sui-faces. For instance, if the legs were fastened to the body without a washer the movement of the legs would soon wear off the paint. PLATE 4:! k> — Make Two t ^t(\I ^ ■— - N L_ 1 / / •f 1 ^ \ i >' 1 L _j ^ l=L_ V r , 1 2 yt \ - 1 j 1 \j^ L > Toy Rabbit Make Two Of Each — Paint — Rabbit- Whi te. Spot Black Or Gi^^y. Ca^r-t - Red Indicates Location Of Holes Fofi Screws These Dimensions To Suit Finished Toy »..p "oj I : rM\ -irnr L: Washeh 90 HAND GRAFT PROJECTS TARGET PISTOL r.t'j:ln work by iiuiUing pistol. Soft wuod such as piu'' should bo .selected, as there is considerable carving to be done with the jaek-knife. IMano the piec<' sijuare and to size, then lay out the form. Bore a V^'nch hole through barrel and then, with a smaller bit. cut the opening in which the hanuiicr slides. Note the cut is made deeper at X. Cut to form with a coping saw. Before rounding barrel cut opening for trigger. Make trigger. Bore holes with a brad awl for pin ami rubber band. Fit trigger in place and fasten with a pin. Drive a tack in the bottom side of barrel and loop a rubber band run through the trigger over it. The rubber band acts as a trigger spring. The hammer should be made of a piece of hard wood. Thread a heavy rubber hand through hammer and loop ends over tacks or screws driven in sides of barrel. Fine springs such as may be taken from an old adding machine may be used with the ruliber band, or if they are strong enough no ruLiher hanil will be required. Thread a piece of fish or chalk line through hole in hammer, to be used to pull hammer back to cock the gun. Taki- pistol apart and round barrel, trigger anil handir- nicely. Also santl insirle of I)arn'l so the bulb'l will slide <mi1 easily. To make bullet, whittle oul a nuind stick, cut a shoubb'i- and notches as at 1. Wrap a piece of wrapping paper around liullet as at 2 and fasten with a piece of string. Stand the liullet in a hole bored in a piece of board and pour paper mold full of hot lead. The lead can be melted in an old spoon. A drop of water poured in the hot lead will cause it to explode, so do not allow water to be put on the lead until after it has set. When the lead has cooled remove papi-r anri file the end round. The frame for target is well dimensioned so little troul)Ie will be experienced in making it. The dolls are made of clothes pins. To play the game shoot in turns. The men count 10 and the women 5. The person first making 50 points wins the game. PLATE 44 92 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS JACK BE NIMBLE E\'pry boy has learned this old nurseo* rhynn' in Ihc klndcrpirtcn. Hfro is a chance for you to illustrate it for the little folks. It is to he done with some thin wood, a jack-knife and copinq: saw. Make the base B. Next lay out with a pencil compass and rule part A. Before sawing to form, bore a row of 5-lG" holes, removing the stock for the cut-out. The cut-out can be made with the coping sp_w. Finish the sides of the cut-out with a knife, rat-tail lile and sandpaper. They must be very smooth so part F will slide easily. Make C and fasten to B with cigar box nails. Part D is made up of two pieces of wood, one thin and one thick. It Is merely a slide and its construction can be Ii-arned from the end view. Assemble with cigar box nails. E is a very thin piece, and receives considerable abuse. so select a good tough piece of cigar box lumber for this part. It must be made accurately and the edges of the slot and corners nicely rounded and smoothed with sandpaper. Part F will have to l>e made with a jack-knife, unless you have a turning latlu-. Jack, or part (J, should be drawn on a piece of wood having the grain run at such an angle that the point of the cap will not split off. Drive brads for the rublx^r band and then assembb^ according to the drawing. It will be found necessary, no doubt, to sand parts here and there so they will work well. A little common soap applied to movable parts will make them work freely. With a small brush decorate the toy as indicated on the drawing. To operate, hold B in the left hand, grasp the handle on E between the thumli and first and second fingers of the right hand, pull to the right till Jack backs over the candle, release the handle and see Jack jump. PLATE 45 03 Jack Be Nimble Paint — /K-B Yellow H^ Red I Pink J- White K- Green Candle - White^Reo . HOLDERdROWN SMOKE GRAY 94 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS BOY SCOUT'S HELIOGRAPH OUTFIT First grt !iut all pieces uf stock to their overall sizes. Fit to the liorizontiil part the two pieces which fit just in front and back of shutter fratne and which hohl the latter in a firm, upright position. Cut notch in central part of frame later. Next cut the angles on upper ends of B and C. First study the drawing, then hold parts as neai'ly as you can in proper position with reference to pieces to which they are to fit. This should assist you in understanding the draw- ing. Lay out the angles, but before cutting, compare again. Next locate and cut notches for part X. To do this lay H and C on the floor in proper position, place X on them so it will be 14" from bottom of each piece, then mark. Fasten X in position at once. Lay out and cut A next. Fasten A, B and C in place with small hinges. When these parts are assembled, the small blocks that rest just back of A, B and C may be fitted and fastened in place. To locate notch to be cut in horizontal part, fold B and C back so X rests upon it. then mark and cut. M.Mki' iiirror frame next. The mirror shouM be one suit- able tor this size frame and is to be held in place liy round- head screws and washers. ,\ 2" round-head screw holds the fi'ame to the horizontal support. Use a washer here also. Turn screw Just tight enough to hold frame securely and yet permit it to lie turned as desired. Next make shutter frame. It will be necessary to bore holes for shutter support and to place the latter in position before assembling the parts. Tack shutter in place afterwards. Small cleats are placed in front of shutter at the top, and back of shutter at the bottom to keep it from swinging farther than is necessary. The opening at bottom of fi-ame should be a size that will hold the shutter in a snug position when in use. When carrying from place to place it is removed. .\ coat of paint will add to the appearance and also pre- serve the wood. The outfit can be quickly set up and adjusted to flash the signals to any point desired. PLATK 4fi DtTAiL OF tliRROPi FRy^r/a U3£. MiRRofi Suitable For This 5/Z£ FR^rte DoRe Hole 5 ^t ^ To SutT Use R H ScRLws ^noW'-^sners Boy Scouts Heliogr/\ph Outfit. Det/ml Of 3HUTTEJi ^no FRAne ^^i-^ Locate Amo Cut After To Cut Notches In 3 Ar^o C Fopi X . Lf^y 3 -^f^o C Oiv Ftoofi , Pl-^ce X In Position A NO n^RK X Is /I FRon Bottom. Part C Is S-^ne Size. 1^3 S. But Upper £no Is Cut Just Opposite 96 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS GROUND SCRATCHER This groun;! scratoher will be found vi-ry conveni.iit r..r those having small gardens. The project is also i good one to make for Ihe practice gained in laying out an irregular shai-'ed object from dimensions given. The pattern might be laid out on, and cut from a piece of cardboard and then traced on the wood. Plane up a piece of wood to the n'quired thickness and on it trace the pattern. Use a coping saw to cut to form and finish with a file and sandpaper. Bore a hole in the handle. Bore from both sides so the wood around the hole will not split out. Locate the points at which to drive the brads or scratchers and drive at about th.' angle indicated. If the angle at which the brad comes through docs not look right it can be bent to suit with a pair of pliers. Make the thin cap that covers the heads of the brads. This is necessary to keep the brads from working loose and pushing up through the handle. The cap may be bradded in place, but it is suggested that holes be bored and it be fastened to the handle with small round-head screws. Trace the cap from the first part made so it will be exactly the same shape. With sandpaper round all edges ninely, especially the handle, so the sharp corners will not bother the user while working. PLATE 47 98 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL Any material will do for the snow shovel, painted, so work in any scrap pieces. It is to be Part D should be made of one piece if possible, but two pieces may be used. The strip across the back and metal piece across the front edge will help hold the parts together. Plane part D to size and chamfer front edge as indicated on the drawing of part D. Make part C next. Note ou the drawing that the corners are cut and a cut-out made for the handle. Fasten part C to 1) with screws. Bore holes and countersink them, as llat- head screws are to be used. Now make the handle. It is composed of two parts, A and B. Fasten A to P. with one screw and two hnishlng nails. Also fasten B to C and D with screws. Paint D and front face of C black, the rest of C and the handle red. Cut a strip of galvanized Iron or heavy tin, bend and tack over the edge of D. PLATE 48 00 • 1_ C/y/z. Z75 Snow jho vel -i«o , ^ :a ■*» .^ • -L* i_ \. 36" ^-jj t W^ />?/?7- £• Part i 2 /^ ^-8" — H ; U L^ u ' ■i 3 ^'''»«»*.=ss==^- -D , '1 f f ) _ , / " 1 h 6 1 "■^ 1 1 1 -• 1 K3i-^ .' 1 .. Pa/f7t D ond ffon^ foccBf C b/ack, ffit fcst of C and /loni^/e retf. — «_ ■^ (4- ^ ^^^ "^^ 100 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS KITES The making of kites like boat making requires consider- able personal experimenting to make them perform as desired. These drawings show a few of the most common kites. The double dotted lines represent the kite sticks and the single ilotted lines the string which is stretched from stick to stick and holds them in position. The string Is also used to strengthen the paper which Is pasted over It. The first kite is called by boys a two sticker and, like the three sticker, requires a tail. It is impossilde to sa.v how long or how heavy the tail must be. It should be just heavy enough so the kite will not dive. The tail can be made of strips of cloth tied together. A bridle or belly band may vary in length on different kites, but this will have to be adjusted when the trial (light Is made. Sticks for kites can be made from a straight grained cedar post. They will be very light and will bend consider- able without breaking. Other light wood will do for the sticks. To make the sticks from a post si)Iit off thin strips with an axe and then plane to size. Fasten the sticks together where they cross with a tine Itrad or cigar box nail and bind with waxed cord. Bend the cross stick of the bow kite as shown at the 6" dimen.sion on the drawing and hold in this position with a piece of fish line. It is great sport to fly three of these kites at one time, although it takes some skill to get them up and a very strong line to hold them. Kites like the four-stick in the drawing have always won the height contests and are not difficult to make. Cover this kite with linen cloth or tracing cloth. Box kites are also easy to nmke. The cross sticks can I)e half lapped or fastened in other ways as the maker may wish. The best material for covering kites Is tracing cloth, heavy colored tissue paper or cloth that will not allow the wind to blow through it. A cooked flour and water paste is as good as any. PLATK 49 101 String Two Stick -37':^ Box Kite \—7-\ Three Stick y e 6 Kites Two St/ck Bow No tail Four Stick Yofd Stick ' 3 Two Stick Bow Kites ■^^ SquapcBox Kite 102 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS PUZZLES The first drawing shows "THE MYSTERIOUS STRINC rrZZLE." Pull one ccd ami the strins is white ; pull the other and it is red. A sectional vi<'W shows the object cut through the center and one part removed, expor.in^ the in- terior. . Get out a piece of soft wood and bor;- a Vj" hole alino;:t the entire length. Augur bits work hard in end grain, so use soft wood. Make a plug to lit the hole from the same wood. It should be made longer than the piece desired so it can be sawed off after being put in plaee. After sawing, if the plug is still evident it may be concealed by pounding or battering the end with a hammer or paint the whole piece. Bore a %" hole crosswise of the piece. Thread a piece of heavy chalk line through the holes — straight across — reach up in the large hole with a crochet hook and draw the cord down through the hole. Drive a staple in one end of the plug after the cord is placed in positiou with reference to the staple. Insert the plug into the hole to a depth of 1" and saw flush with the end. Pull ends of string up tight. Tie a knot in one end of the cord and color it red for a distance of about 4". Pull the other end of the cord, draw- ing the red end in as far as the knot will permit. Cut this end off to the same length as the dthcr and tie a knot. Leave this end white. The other puzzle is rather difficult to solve. Make the piece as shown and tie the buttons in place. Ordinary knots are used at the end, but in the middle the string should be fastened as indicated at A. The object is to get both buttona on one side without untying the end knots. PLATE 50 103 Puzzles. ChalK Line Color one end,- l^ s^'^^ /^' Leave, other end wh/'fe. j Bore I 3 Ho/es Staple Object - To get button X on same Side as Y without untieing the knots. -//H ^ 7 Tl j Enlarged /r[ view mat A 104 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TRENCH MORTAR Boys, here is a Fourth of July cannon that will do every- thing a war cannon will do except kill people. It will boom, shoot a projectile, belch forth flame and smoke and recoil il" set on a smooth surface when fired. There is no danger con- nected with it and it makes the shooting of firecrackers safe. The little folks may use this project as a toy after it has been used for celebrating the Fourth. Make A the floor and screw wheels in place. Wheels may be cut from a piece of broom handle. Or wooden button molds may be used. Button molds make ideal wheels as they are already bored. Next make th^ carriage and fasten to A. Use 1" brmls for assembling. Now make the barrel. Square stock to size and draw diagonals to locate the center. With dividers or pencil com- pass from the center just located at the muzzle, draw a %" circle. Then bore a %" hole about 1 inch deep in the breach of the barrel. Remove the bit and bore through the barrel fn.ni the muzzle till the holes meet. Use a rat tail lile or sandpaper on a pencil to smooth hole. Draw a line around the barrel two inches from the breach and from this line plane or whittle the barrel round to the %" circle. Chamfer the breach end and fasten the barrel in place with %" No. 7 round-head screws. Cut a piece from a tin can and on it lay out part E as detailed. Cut after boring holes and finish with a file. Fasten to end of barrel with 14" No. 1 round-head screws or cigar box nails. Disassemble all parts except the mounting and paint as indicated. Drive a staple or screw a screw eye in the front of part A for a string. Open the breach by raising the tin, insert a firecracker, leaving the fuse projecting through the hole in the tin. Light the fuse and watch the firecracker, smoke and fire shoot from the muzzle of the gun. PLATE 51 in.'i Parte Trench Mortar Note — Place Fi recracher In BfjRREL F asten Part K - Ligh t Fuse £ &IMS~. . HART C /vw/Y-f jy^o Tf Part B >< > H — 'b' — 1 ii tnifo t^l^ Note- ^^' CAfiuFLAOC. Br Combining T/it Colors Place Washer s Be twccn Mov^bl e Parts. Part D 1 1 (O; inn HAND CRAFT PROJECTS STRADDLE HORSE As tho whole of this toy is to bo palntcil, mi>st any Kiml of wood may be used. Work might be started on the head. Square up an edi^'e and one end of the piece from which you are going to make It. Draw the squares with the try square from these sur- faces. Lay out pattern and bore hole for D. Next lay out patterns for C — the saddle — and saw to shape. Make part B. In boring hole for axle F, iay out on each odge of B and bore from rach edge. In boring from each edge, the error, if any, is greatly reduced. Now make wheel A, bore for axle from each side of piece. The out.side of thtj wheel should be made true. Describe a circle on the stock with a sharp pair of dividers, scoring rather deeply ; use this line to work to. The axle F is one-half inch in diameter. The hole for tl.e axle is also one-half inch in diameter, and to make the wheel turn easily on the axle sand the axle slightly in the middle. Sand all pieces well. Fasten D and C in place, then fasten E to C with Ihit-bead screws, and to B with rouml- head. Before i,lacing wheel in position, paint the parts. A .s<'heme for painting is given on the drawing. Two coats of paint will be necessary to give the horse the real finished appearance, but before giving the second coat, place the wheel in position anil paint it fully assembled. Use washers as indicated, and be sure the wheel turns easily. TLATK r,3 107 108 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS THE BAG PUNCHER The first piece of this toy to malie is the base. Select a good straight grained piece of soft pine. After planing ti> size lay out the mortise with a marking gage and knife, I'Ut with a chisel. Drill holes for the wire support to hold the bag. Drill these holes on a line 1%" from the end of the piece. Square up piece for the man and draw squares through which to trace the form of the man. Prepare a piece in the same manner for the arms. Now saw to line with a coping saw and finish with sandpaper. If you are not accustomed to reading drawings, take note of the dotted lines projecting from the forward foot of the man. This indicates that aljout %" of material is to be left here. Make a saw cut for the end of the spring or corset stay. Also bore a hole at A for a brad. Carve out an egg shaped piece of wood for the punchin,-^ bag with a knife and drive a staple in the top end. Now with a pair of pliers form from a piece of wire about 12" long the bag support. The spring is to he made from a corset stay or piece of clock spring. Tunch two holes in it. one to fasten to the bottom block and the other for the block to operate the toy. Paint the parts as desired. The bottom might be gray, the trousers red, the shirt white, the gloves black and the bag brown. After the paint has thoroughly dried, assemble the parts. Fasten the arms to the body with cigar box nails. The arms must swing freely. As the body is so thin, the arms should be fastened one a little above the other so the nail points will not touch. Place the foot in the mortise and fasten with a long brad. Put cue end of the spring in the saw kerf in the foot. Fasten the other end to tlie bottom piece with a cigar box nail. Set the bat; support in place and operate by pressing on the little block fastened to the spring. PLATE 5:i 109 The Bag Puncher *-/fi VI I re -^ CorsetStay Or ClockSpmg 2 g Z ong T 110 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS LOW FOLDING TABLE This table is convenient, as the legs can be folili'd sa the table requires little space tor storing. It is just the proper height for a typewriter, and also for playing games that do not require too large a surface. The top may be made of one piece or of several pieces glued together. In the latter case the edges should be well jointed: Dowel pins may be used, but are not necessary, as the parts D act as cleats. Make two pieces liiie part D of hard wood. Plane the ooards and lay out the design. Bore i/^-iuch holes as inili- cated on' the drawing of this part and cut to line with a rip saw. Fasten these pieces to the top with screws. The end view drawing shows the method of boring for the screws, using a V^" bit and 3-l(!" drill. The screw should be of such gage that it will slip through the 3-16" hole easily. JIalve parts A, C and C next. The drawings show them square, but this is not necessary. Round pieces of broom handle might be used. Cut each piece to the proper length and with a saw, knife and wood rasp work the ends round to a diameter of %". A turning lathe or dowel cutter may be used for forming the ends on these pieces. The legs should be made of oak or other hard wood. They are practically the same, except that legs N have one end rounded and the holes for the spreaders are one inch farther apart. Fasten the legs to the ends of A, B and C with brads or round-head screws, but note that legs M are not fastened to C. If you n-.iUe the mistake of fastening them your table will not fold. All tenons must fit the holes. If they are too small the table will not stand rigidly when being used. After assembling, sandpaper well, breaking all sharp edges. Taint bright red or finish otherwise. PLATE 54 111 Part A Part B 3=1 LOW FOLDING TABLE Leg m .-f^^ -^'H '4 Part C -^ t ~ia 1^ - 4 -21' -13 -15^' H 16- 3 C -IQ -^ 112 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS LETTER RACK This k'tter rack will he found very handy on any desk or tabic. It need not necessarily be used for letters, It is con- venient for holding post cards or kodak pictures. Begin work on the bottom piece first because if yoti make a mistake on this part it can be used for one of the smaller pieces. After planing to size, draw center line and locate screw holes. Lay out curves at corners with compass and pare to line with a chisel. Bore and countersink holes foi- screws. Make partition next, and if it is spoiled it may be used for a side piece. Note that only two corners are rounded 0:1 all parts except the bottom piece. Now make the side pieces and then assemble all parts. Be sure to bore holes for the screws, otherwise the screws will split these thin pieces. Round-head screws are used for the side pieces, so do not countersink the holes for them. To locate the side pieces on the bottom plei'e. Draw a line bisecting the center line on the bottom piece. Draw center lines across the bottom edges of the side pieces and hold the parts so these lines meet. With a marking awl, mark through the hole in the side piece the location on the bottom piece for boring for the screw. Remove all .screws and sandpaper off all scratches and pencil mark.s. To obtain a good job of sanding put a few drops of oil on the sandpaper. If gum wood is used it may be stained and given a shellac or French polish ; or the piece may be oiled, with boiled linseed oil, thinned with a little turpentine. Give two coats of oil, allowing each to dry for twenty-four hours before applying the next, then finish with wax or merely by rubbing to a polish. PLATE 55 m J=T I — w -n LETTER Rack "-U \^A ■^l? (: ^'rio4 F/iSCRtVJ s g- NO 4^RM SCREM Sioe /' I 1 + ♦ 1 ■f f 3" u- •*-; rt 114 HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS SILHOUETTE CAMERA A silhouette is an outline or profile filled in with blacU. Some persons can cut profiles of people or objects from paper. This work is very amusing and interesting but requires patient practice. With the silhouette camera good results can be produced with little practice. Start work by making the bottom board, according to dimensions. Make the Ijack or picture plane 8"x8". The pedestal or 4" piece is for supporting the marking rod. The top edge of the pedestal should bo chamfered to allow the marking rod to move up and down freely. Three braces are needed to stiffen the picture plane and pedestal, which must be made very rigid in order that the device will work ■well. Fasten the parts together with glue and screws. The marking rod can be made from a round or square piece. In one end a hole is drilled about 2" deep for a piece of wire. The size of the hole will depend on the size of wire used. If you do not have a drill the size you want, make a drill point from a piece of the wire. In the other end of the rod drill a hole to fit a pencil, which must not stick in the hole, nor move about, but must be a sliding fit. A spring is to be inserted in the hole behind the pencil. One may be made by winding a piece of spring wire around a peg smaller than the hole. As the distance from the top of the pedestal to the plane varies during the motion of the rod the spring is necessary to keep the pencil point continuously against the plane. Fasten the rod to the pedestal as indicated, giving It a free up, down and sideway motion. To operate fasten a sheet of paper to the plane with thumb tacks, clamp or hold camera firmly to the table. Seat person in chair so wire can be passed around profile, move wire slowly, touching every depression. It will be noted that the outline is made upside dcrwn. Ri'move paper from plane, paste a piece of black tissue paper on opposite side from outline. Cut to profile line with scissors and paste on a piece of white mount eardlioard. Kemoving a section of black paper with sharp knife gives appearance of a collar. PLATE 56 ii; S/lhouette: Camera 116 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS SEWING COMPANION Any mother or sister will appreciate this sewing com panion. It is a great convenience, made to hold a thimble, several spools of thread and a few needles and pins. Use gum, mahogany, or walnut. J-'or the Lottom plane up a piece %"x3i/^"x7". When planing, marli working face and edge and make all layouts from these surfa''es. Draw the center lines, locate holes for pegs or dowel pins and bore tliein ; also a 3-lG" hole for the screw to fasten part A. Lay out the depression for the needles and pins and work out with a gouge ; finish with sandpaper. Draw the curved lines for cutting the ends and at the same time the H" chamfer. Saw to line with a coping saw, finish with a spoke shave and sandpaper. Never lay out a chamfer or bevel with anything but a pencil. Use a plane for cutting the chamfer. It is convenient to hold the work in a woodtn hand screw while removing the stock. :Make block A to hold the thimble. A peg may be mortised into the bottom on which to hang the thimble but the block is more convenient. The thimble can be put in the hole or taken out, as it is dropped in upside down, with one hand while the other is occupied holding other work. The sides of the block can be slanted, forming a truncated pyramid. Make dowels of same kind of wood. First plane a piece square, then plane off the corners, making it octagonal. Con- tinue planing corners until the piece is round. Bore a 3-16" hole in a piece of hard wood, if you have not a dowel plate with a hole this size, and drive the round stick through it, smoothing the edges. Cut to length and round end so spool will slip on easily. Sandpaper all parts with 00 sandpaper and assemble. Put a drop of glue on the end of each peg. If any glue ruus over on the bottom piece wipe it oflE with a damp cloth. Finish by rubbing with lioiled linseed oil, or stain, shellac and wax. PLATE 57 m Sewing Companion ■^rM •>1, D£rAIL3 ,f BLOCnA i T^ 118 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS ORNAMENTAL GARDEN STICKS Tho use of those garden sticks will add a loui-h to 3'our I'.ower box or to your flower bed in the jard and wiil be very interesting to you. No difficulty will be found in malving them. The hardest part is in getting good looliing outlines of the birds, and also to get tiieni colored attractively. Th* designs submitted here are only suggestive. The same may be s;aid of th(? colors. Choose the design that best suits you. Select the wood from which the stick is to be made and upon it lay out '/i-inch ■ iiquares. Through these squares trace the outline of the bird, being careful that the lines pass through your squares in the same relative position that they pass through the squares of the drawing. It will b} well to bore the hole for the suppt)rting rod before the bird is cut to shape. Be very careful with this latter operation. No matter how carefully you have traced your outline, if the cutting is not done with equal care, the' result of your efforts will not be satisfactory. Smooth the piece with sandpaper and fasten tlie upright in place. This latter is to be of a length suitable for the place in which the stick is to be used. For instance, if it Is to be used in a flower box, it should be shorter than if it is to be used In the flower bed in the garden. Paint the bird just as well as you can. It is not neces- sary to use the colors suggested. If you have (lifferent or better ideas, put them into effect. Remem\)er that you can spoil a good job of consti-uc'tion worlt by a poor job of painting, in other words, there is no place in the making of these sticks that will permit of care- less work. PLATE 58 119 ORNA ^\ ^^ r MENTAL Garden sticks RaiNTINC SuccasTioNS A - Black. 3 - Blue.. C - CRcaN. O - Red £ - Yellow. Use Slack Fop Stripinc Between CoLons 1IIP»^i't ''i y Length To Suit. -■^ :£■' ^^ "" '="' 3 - >^' S'^^-i ":" ""^^ ^ -- ^. - ^ ^ ^ -c ■^ a- "^ -^ ^ S S S^.^ _l!s^ ^ ^^ - ^.. **'*'^"'''*i'"fc^'"'*^ ■^ ^ '^^^'~ "*N'*r--r 1 "--■-. 1 1 JM~u)i 1 1 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 1 1 i.j - _ -____- n ^ 'l ■■■■' ^v ." a ^ 17^ ' " 1 i'" :sZ ::;;--- ^jtj -^ , 2;^f?^ nft>l L^pHtllU^ ^y c I \ 1 v\ [ ^5. ■-:2._ - e^-'^--^^Ai»j : ; >l ' -hpf ^^5^" ?i.X^. . t- _L _i^ zi 2E^^ a-.i'' ' •\ ' ^^Zl _ A'^i f : \ - -^s -- -- ^ I' ^^ _?s^ t- v^ ---^-r-- = :!t5>.- ' _S^ L ^ 1 120 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS MOUSE TRAP This slinpli' trail has a bottom, two sUlos and a door, with a tin can fastened to the l)ottoni lietween the two sides. The door Is made as shown in the drawing and hinged to sides by two 9i" brads. The door stop is fastened to the door 1-16" from bottom, with 1-inch lirads driven through stop and door and clinched on inside of the latter. A screw eye is screwed into one end of the door stop, another al)out IV2" from the back of one side, and a rubber band stretched between. This acts as a spring and closes the door when the hooli is released by the mouse pulling at the bait. The hook driven in the top of the door is made as follows : Drive a 1%" No. 18 brad in place, cut off the head with a pair of pUers er file, and with the pliers bend as shown. The information for niaking bottom and sides can be easilj' learned from the dra\\'ing. Assi'jnble with 1-inch brads. The can used for this trap was a baking powder can, and to fit the dimensions given, must be three inches io diameter antl five Inches deep. If you wish to use a larger can, increase the iliniensions of the other parts of the trap accordingly. Fasten can to trap by brads driven through floor and can stop, through th;* can, and clinched inside the can. The can stop is to be fastened to the floor with %" brads. The bait hook is made of heavy wire, foraied as shown. Use pliers to hold wire while bending. Make a hole in the bottom of the can for the bait hook with a wire nail a littli? larger gage than the wire. The door can be made to close from the slightest touch on the bait hook if the book driven into the top of the door is adjusted at Just the right angle. It a piece of tin is tacked on the door directly in front of the can opening, the mouse will not be able to gnaw his way out through the wood door. A boy who understands how to wire au electric bell can connect one to the trap so he will be notified when the mouse is caught. PLATE r.O 121 Trap OfCtn VJiR£ Hook =1^ tl ^n TinCan Mouse trap 5lD£ - .-J?-- J Trap Closed 122 HAND. CRAFT PROJECTS BOY*S HANDY WAGON lliis proj'-'-l. If wheels, iKilstcrs ;ina Any goj(l wood may bo us;ed fur have a choice, use hard wood for the axles. Make the box first. Be suie to get all your corners square. Asseniblt- with sixpenny coinnion nnlls. JIark center for the hole to be bored for carriage bolt, but leave the boring until other holes of same size are to 1h' I)ored. Next get out the bolsters and axles, marldng the centers of the holes. Part C will require careful work in laying out. Bore hole for the carriage bolt before cutting the tongue groove. Make the tongue next and mark locations for holes to be bored. The next step can well be the boring of .the various holes, the locations for which you have already made. Holes that go clear through a piece should be laid out and bored from both sides. In boring for screws, remember that two sizes should be made — one for shank of screw and the other for diameter at bottom of threads. The hardest part of the construction will In- Ibe making nf the wheels. If you have access to a turning lathe, the work will be easy. Wheels formed according to the drawing look better than those with flat surfaces, but if they cannot be made that way, make them flat. If lathe and Itand saw are not available, lay out with a pair of sharp dividers, scoring deeply. Saw as near the line as possible, finishing with a rasp. The wheels may be hollowed ovit with a gouge. Just a bit of patience and care is all that is required. When all parts are made, assemble and test for proper fitting. Take apart and sand well. The painting may be done before or after the parts are finally put together. Sometimes it is more convenient to paint each piece separately. Give considerable thought to the color scheme you will use. It is not recommended that you use a great many differ- ent colors, but your cart will look better if you use at least two. This gives a nice contrast. No color scheme is sug- gested, as tastes vary a great deal, so this part of the work is left to each individual to solve to his own satisfaction. PLATE 00 123 Boys H/^ndy W/jcon. M4QT£fHAL - ^NV COOO WOOO OoftE Fan ^ C^ftai^ce Bolt '^- -'j.?~- ."--,- > -■'■■' BoKe ro-' " 124 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TRAVELER'S CASE The luattTi-il for this case shoiiUl be a very ycuxl quality of wood. .Walnut Is very attractivo and is recommended for use If it is possii)le for you to secure it. The application of linseed oil and later a thin coat of shellac, rubbed down with very fine sandpaper, will give a very pleasing finish. An examination of thi- dniwinj,' will shojiv that thi' front part of the box is not parallel with the back part. The ends are square witli the bacli. but thi* front makes a small angle with them. It will require careful work to get good joints, and the attractiveness of the box is dependent upon the quality of your work. From the drawing it will lie seen that the bottom is \i" thick, 1%" wide- at one end and 1%" wide at the other, and 7" long. The ends are square with the back edge. Reduce this piece to the required dimensions, and then the side pieces, front and back. It will be well to fasten these pieces tempo- rarily in place in order to fit the end pieces. The dimensions for these latter pieces, and for the partition A, are given slightly oversize in order that you may have a small margin for fitting. Fit them very carefully, remembering the caution given above regarding the attractiveness of the box. Part C will also have to be fitted with care, and to assist you, the dimensions shown are slightly larger on one side. The hole in this part is cut on a slant to give the thimble a better support. No special suggestions are needed with regard to this piece, or with any of the remaining pieces that go to make up the case. Small hinges are used between the box and the cover, and as the material is so thin, a hinge should be selected that can be fastened in the manner shown on the drawing. A piece of cardboard covered with velvet and glued to the cover provides the means for holding the scissors and needles. The thread is held in accordance with the explanation given in the note — the small spool at the left end and the others placed in the order of their size. ' ™ PLATE 61 125 I- Cut To Th/J Dim^n3/on For D, Then Pl/ine Bevel To Fit Travelers case. j — cardboaro Covered With I VELVET And 'i)? Clued To Cover Cut To These Dimensions For -A AND 0, Then Plane Bevel To Fit -=^ 5 POOLS AfiE Held In Position By Means Of A Silk Shoe Strino Or Ribbon Threaded Throl/oh Them ,Ano Thc HoL£s In The Box. The Cover Is Held Closso By TyiNo £nos Of Ribbon Around Boh 3 iToP View Shows Cover Turned Back Starting At Left End Of 4 Drill -IO Holes Section On XV Cut To ThesE Dimensions , Then Plane To Fit. Box, Place /OO, SO, 60 and 50 Cottoiv^ And 50 Black , In That Order 126 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS HALLOWE'EN FUN MAKERS Fij;ure 1 shows a spool tick-tack, ma;le by cuUiug uotrh''s on ends of a spool. Fasten to a handle about two feet long. Tie one end of string to spool and wind the rest around it. Hold handle in left hand and end of string in right. Press edges of spool iigainst window pane and pull string, caiisini; spool to revolve, thus making desired disturbance. Another type is shown in Figure 5. It is fastened to window pane by wetting and pressing against it. The rubber tUsk can be obtained by breaking neck of old style pop bottle and slipping it oflF the closing fixture. Use any flat-head screw. Fasten to window pane, then jerk knots between first finger and thumb nail. Figures 3 and 4 are lanterns, made of paper shoe boxes and tin cans or paint pails. Paste colored paper over nose, mouth and eyes, so candle cannot be seen. Punch holes on back, sides, top or bottom, otherwise candle wiil soon burn nut. Figure 3 shows a method of keeping cover on box anrl also how to make an eye wink by making a shutter from card- board, a njbber band, a paper fastener v,ud a piece of string. For Figure (I take a shingle nail and drive through bottom of can at center. Tie a piece of string three feet long to nail. Thread other en<i through hole from inside of can. Tie knots near end of string and rub rosin into it. Hold can in left hand and draw knots through thumb and first finger. Figure 7 is the snake trick. Use an old stocking stuffed with grass, and a piece of strong twine. Throw over limb of a tree and drop from above, or draw across sidewalk. Prepare for Figure 2 befor.* dark. Drive a nail in top of window frame. Tie a piece of black thread to nail, ari<l a button on thread about IS" from nail. After dark climlt up in a tree with thread in h^nd. Let button swing against window. If anyone opens window, draw button iip out of sight. The horseshoe nail trick is worked the same as Figure G, only a longer and stronger cord is required. The end of horseshoe nail is slipped under the edge of clapl)oard on house, and if plenty of rosin is rubbed on cord, the owner will soon think every board Is being ripped from his house. PLATE fi- F,q I Hallowe"£:n Fun Makers F,q S Knots \ Stnng 'N St fin f-^ ^' Ro3irr»n<i Knots Rubber Bottle Stopptrf Rosm ^ Knofs, ■ \ Point Po// fi3 4- 128 HAND CRAFT PROTECTS WIND MILL AND ACROBAT A common tcn-cciit storo roping sav/ ami a goovi -sliarp Jacl! knife are all the tools rciiuircd to make this toy. Select two straight srainod pieces for the blades. Lay I'lit with a pencil, and after cutting the half lap joints, form the blades to shape indicated. Fasten together with iirads, and also brad a block on the back of mill for the small pulley. Drill a small hole at center of mill for a nail or a screw. The hole should be large enough to permit the mill to turn freely. An empty buttonhole twist spool may be used for the pulley, or it can be made. With a Jacli'knife i-i,",iie grooves for the lielt, then fasten to the block. Next make the vane and the piece that holds it. Fasten together with lirads. Make the parts that hold the pulley shaft in place, hut do not fasten in position until the shaft is made and fitted to them. The shaft will require careful and accurate work with the knife. Work nut larce inilley and make thi' hole in it such a size that it will mak-> a press tit on the shaft, .\sscmble parts just made and fasten in iiIm'-c so [)ulieys are in line; that is, one exactly above the other. Make the parts for the man next. These may be made from cigar bo.-;es if desired. Lay oH squares and trace in the ■ atterns. Cut to shape with coping saw and fasten together with wire or long Iiank pins. The parts should fit loosely. After assembling all parts, mount on the upright piece at the point of balance. A rubber liand will make a good belt for tile pulleys, as thr- rain will not aiTect it. If necessary to use cotton string, rub beeswax or paraffine on it. All the bearings should 1)0 well oiled to i)ro(luce good action and do away with as miu-h friction as possiId(\ The parts can be painted to suit, but be careful that no paint gets lietwoen any of the moving parts. Mount windmill on the peak of a shed or top of any post that is located out in the open so the wind can get a good chance to turn the blades. The antics will be highly amusing to your friends and to yourself. PLATE 63 r-"j \NiND Mill And Acrob/\t LL G\ .■ BO OV ARI^ r ' ^. F A \ * f r* J \ Y (" il* i / \ ^ 1 1 f ^jn, / \ '^ \ ' \ * ', . \ 1 \^ V'- ■t£ *«^ -■' V — 5i — •\ Pulley Shaft Blade h'. Small Pulley _ 'Hi- 130 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS PIN AND BALL GAME Use any wood you have at your disposal, hut get as straight grained wood for the uprights as you can. Make the base first. The mortises should be laid out and cut from both sides of the piece. Unless this method Is fol- lowed the mortises will not l)e straight through. Parts B are not hard to make. The tenons cut on these pieces are to fit the mortises in A, so lay out and cut them accordingly. Part C is always easy to make. In laying out all these pieces thus far, remember that they should be laid out accord- ing to the way the dimensions read on the drawing; ihat Is, from the center of the piece. The hardest part of the t-onstruction will be the making of the pin. If you have a turning lathe, the job will be very easy, but as most boys do not have one available, it will have to be fashioned by other means. It will not be difficult to plane a piece to lYj Inches in diameter. On u piece the required length, describe two IMs" circles, one on each end. Also on one end, with same center, describe a circle 1 inch in diameter. Plane off the stock until .you have a cylinder 1% Inches diameter. From this step it will be necessary to work with a good sharp knife. Good work cau be accom- plished by combining a little patience and care. Sand well and assemble. Place uprights In mortises anil fasten C to the tops by means of l>rads. The piece may be stained or painted as desired. The ball to be used may be a rubber or a wooden one. Insert a screw eye as shown, and adjust string to such a length that the ball will strike the round top of the pin about in the center. It will very likely seem easy to knock the pin over with the ball, and no doul)t it would be easy if the aim was to knock it over on the forward swing. But that is not the Idea. The ball Is to be drawn toward yi>u, then released so the pin is knocked down on the return swing. Try It. PLATE 64 131 ^ M/3TCM But Without Pin tr~j PL^ace L * O • 55 S ■ 3 TRINO .^ Pin xn^D Bajll Gajme . (/}) t1/^nl Out (S) MftKt Two -n- "n> ~'ii ■n — \i\- ^ 7b OPCfvoTt - pL^ct. Pin fX/OCTLY O^ PnQ/NTeO dacLt Pull Bo^u. fof*- \WiRO ^/vD RELt^St So ir 5 rmtHC s f^^ Qv Return Sw/mq :iij Af/g T£ftl^L — >7/VK Coco V^/OQO ».>■. H'^^ tf^..-:r -lyt 'szi^ flAKt OK !33 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS SAIL BOAT The making of this iiioilol will rcquiro thir exercise of somo Inilividual tliouglit on tlic ii;irt uf the niaki i-. The gen- eral (liincnsiiins are very ilearly shown, but the shaping of the hull will require thi' expression of inilividual thought. The making of the hull shouM n-ceive attention first. Selei-t a light wood, as strai.!;ht grained as possible to permit of ease in forming to shape. A solid piece may Iic'used, but if this is not available, the hull may be built up of several pieces as shown in the drawing. Get out the stock to the overall dimensions, then lay out the shape. The part to be removed in the center is shown by the dotted lines in the front and end views. The section view will alsb assist in understanding the shape desired. The removal of this stock will be of material service in lightening the boat. The Ulimen- sions for the outline of the hull will be found in the view immediately above the front view. This gives the dimensions for the shape crosswise of the hull. The other necessary dimensions will be found in the other views. When your hull is shaped to .vtuir satisfaction, tain rod. bore the bcrle lor the Parts B, I'", (i and II should be given carel'iil atleiitioo. They should be made Just as round as it is possible to make them. Do not slight these parts. Part D will be found more diflicult than those just mentioned and will require the skillful use of a sharp knife. Part C is made from wire, carefully twisted, as shown in the detail drawing. The rudder post should be made so it will lit the hollow curtain pole, but loosely enough to permit it to turn. The method of holding G and II together is shown right near the assembly of these parts,^ — by means of a piece of wire twisted lo the shape of a figure eight. The assembling of the parts can be easily understood from the drawing. To preserve the boat, and also to add to its attractiveness, it should be well painted. The color scheme is to be left to the personal taste of the one who makes the boat. PLATK 65 134 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS CHAIR LAMP This is an exceedingly fine piece to add to the home. The comfort derived from its u.?e will amply repay one for the time spent in its construction. First, make the upright. Select two pieces of wood of required thickness, get tint; out the width to about Vo-inch more than finished size. Smooth one broad surface and square one edge only on each piece. If you have a combina- tion plane, the grooves in the center can be easily made, but as you will not likely have this tool at hand, another method will have to W used. From the edges just squared up, gage lines on the smooth surface the required distance from edge, so the ^^roove will I e in the center when finished. Gage deeply as possible. Chisel out the groove to required depth — 3-lGth-inch in each pip<'e. Next slightly roughen the edges that are to join. When ready, apply glut*, clamp together and set away to dry. While waiting for the upright, make a pattern for the supports. Lny out on wood selected for them and with a turning saw cut them to shape. It will be well, however, lu locate and bore holes for' the dowels before the cutting to shape is done. This will give good, sharp edges oli tin- slanting edge. Next make the cap, then take up unfinished work on up right. First square up to largest dimensions and then lay out and plane taper. Lay out and bore holes for dowels. After this, assemble the parts and make any necessary adjust- ments at this time. When done to your satisfLutiiiu, sand all pieces very carefully. If oak Is used, or any other wood that will take a stain satisfactorily, select stain you wish and apply It, finishing with a thin coat of shellac and wax. If soft wood Is used, thn lamp may be painted. The electrical fixtures can be secured from any electrical supply store. PLATE fir. 135 Chair Lamp. staff - maKc one Sup par i- HaHe four ^ Cap. f^ake one " ^ a Bore . to fit pipe ' -i 136 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS LEG REST Two typi'S of joints arc usoil in tlic i-onstriK-tiuu of this leg rest. Both ni'ed careful work in layiug out anil cutting. The one on part A is called a keyed mortise and tenon, while the one at thi' top of part I> is called a housed or dodo joint. Make out your lumber liill and proceed to get out yuuj- stock to required dimensions. Parts 13 and (.' can he reduced to size at once. Part A should be an inch or more longer than the finished piece, (iet out part D to length and to the greater width, leaving the taper tj be planed later. Use a knife and gage in laying out the various joints — the knife across grain and the gage with grain. Lay out the mortises first in part D into which the tenons on part A fit. At the same time lay out the groove for the end of \. Cut first the mortises that go clear through parts D, then cut groove for the housed joint. Mortises that go clear through a piece should be laid out on both sides, to insure the cutting being straight. Next lay out and cut the groove at top of D for the ends of B. r.c careful in layiug out the tenon and the small mortise ill the ends of A. Remembering that the stock is lougi-r tlian the finished size, all work should be iaitl out from the center of the piece lengthwise. After cutting is done and the fit satisfactory, the excess stock may be removed, it being left on to prevent .splittinj; o;' wood when fitting joint. ENamine carefully details relating to joint at Y. No trouble should be experienced with this if drawing of parts is carefully studied. When all parts have been cut to size, test by fitting them together. When satisfied with them, take apart, lay out ami cut the taper on parts D. Next lay out and cut the chamfers which extend entirely around outside edges only. Sand- paper well. If oak is used, apply stain and finish with a thin coat of shellac and then wax. S-'hould you be fortunate enough to have walnut to make the piece from, apply boiled linseed oil thinned slightly with turpentine, which will make it penetrate better. When dry, apply a, thin coat of shellac. Sandpaper slightly and wax. I'LATE 1,7 137 . L jL Leg Rest (9 DGtail CQ of Aey B o A JIfl fe^t -so. \I 4 "^l^ 3C \^ /A ' /fey 1 T -aa- Dctail of mortise and tenon at A. 138 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS BULL DOG A coping saw or a turning saw will be nordi'il for tlii> work. A power band saw would permit of the work being done more easily, but most boys have not this tool availabii'. It will first be necessary to lay out patterns for different parts. This is don>' liy means of the Vi-inoh squares as shown. Make your patterns with care, for successful work will depend upon h'jw well the parts are shaped. Be sure to locate on patterns points at which holes for screws are to he liored and transfer these accurately to the stock itself. In this way it will be possible to have the locations of the various holes made unitormly so that when the legs and ears are fastened in place, they will work correctly. When your patterns are laid out to your satisfaction, transfer them to stock from which parts are to be made. Ne.xt cut to shape, being careful to follow lines of pattern. Round-head screws are to be used for fastening legs and ears to body. Select size you will use and then bore holes of proper size for them. A double end or dowel screw is used lo fasten heed and collar to body. Ordinary screws may be uscil, but it will be found much more convenient to use double end kind. This is first tnrne<l into place in body, then <<»Ilar is slipped over it and fastened with a couple of brads to keep it from turning, then head is turned on end of screw that projects from body. Washers should be used between legs and body, also be- tween ears and body. It will be well to have washers between head of the .screw and legs and ears. When all parts are ready, assemble and test. If everything is all right, measure distance between legs. Lay out grooves on cart according to this measurement. Next make cart, laying out grooves as above stated. The fit of legs in grooves should be snug enough to hold dog in position. Wheels should be carefully laid out and cut, as it is Important that they be perfectly round. If desired, large wooden button forms may be bought at a department store and used for wheels. When all parts are well sanded, painting is next in order. Take dog and cart apart for this operation. L'se scheme suggested on drawing. PLATE 6S 130 r^Af^E One Bull Dog Make Two Fa^teaj Collar A/^d Head To BoDf Wi'TH Double q End Schew — Paint — Dog-White, ^pot Olack Caat ■ Red. tiAH£ GfioovMS To Fit CortPttTeo Do& * ^ sA/ASHEfi I'-RJ-I. Screw I^Qta 140 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS CHRISTMAS TREE STAND The Christmas tree stand is to be painted either red or The parts can be fast,*ned together with screws or nails, green, and so anj' scraps of wood may be used — even pieces as yon wish. with linots, as tlie paint will cover them. . ■ , ^ " I'lane a piece long enough to make all four feet, part B, One edge and the end that Joins the other part imist 1)h and then cut to length. The feet are fastened to the other absolutely square to produce a good job. parts with bi'ads. Plane up all tour pieces to size, and then cut the corners If the tree is too large In til hole, cut so it will fit, ami according to the drawing. if too small make wedges to fit corners. PLATE 69 141 Christm/is Tree St/^nd -10 i<V 5 -10 3 4 i=h J PfiRT B 142 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS BABY AUTO CAR This car was designed for a small child, especially one who is not old enough to guide the ordinary three-wheeled oar without tipping it over. Steering handle of car only allows frout wheels to turn a certain distance, because then it strikes the side of hood, and in this position the car can- n*t turn over. When being pushed about the living rooms it cannot mar the furniture. The child's legs protect any object the side of the car is likely to touch, the bumper covered with a rubber hose protects objects that the front might come in contact with, and the front wheels are set back of bumper. A young child soon gets tired propelling a car and by slipping in place the handle fastened with a stove bolt, the attendant can pull the oar as she would any cart. As the child grows, the car can be raised by substituting larger wheels. Soft wood may be imeri for all parts, but it is suggested that axles and wheels be made of' hardwood. Hole for steering gear can be bored with an expansive bit or cut with a key-hole saw. Fasten together parts of the steering gear and steering handle with scre\ys. Fasten wheels to axles with i^-itnt-h lag screws. Placf a washer between head of screw and wheel, also between wheel and axle. The 36-inch handl- is fastened to front axle with common iron angfle irons. Paint seat and wheels red, hood black and stripe wheels and hood with yellow. Other combinations of colors may be used. PLATE 70 m:i Baby Au to Car ^^\y^^^'^ Pattbrn of Hoop , \_ 4- ^ Front Axle (D 0*4- Dish ^ ' -'" -(hi-' Stecrinq Part ^V^.'i 1^- H'4i^ .. I S^ Axle [7?0 (?) Braces 144 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS FLY TRAP For the fly trap, first make corner popts wliirh are LI inches long. Next make the bottom board, cut out center and also cornere for posts. Now make the four top rails to bn nailed to the upper ends of posts. Lay out on paper the cone pattern and cut. Place pat- tern on wire cloth and cut cloth. Lace edges of wire cloth together with a piece of wire drawn from wire cloth, form- ing cone. Fasten wire cone to bottom board with tacks. Use a two or three-ounce tack. Nail bottom board in place and then the top rails. f'nver trap with win- » lotli, jr)iTiing the ends on one corner post. Make the top board. This piece must be fastened so it can easily be removed to empty the dead flies. Set trap where flies are noticeable, placing a saucer of sua;ar and water or other material attractive to flies under opening in the bottom board. The flies will crawl under trap to feed, and after feeding will fly up on cone instead of going out as they came. They will walk up to the small opening ill point of rone and throuiih it into the trap. Not Iteing able to find the opening through which they came, they are caught for your disposal. PLATE 71 145 Fly Trap Bottom Bo/iRD 146 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS PLANT BOX Plant boxes are subjected to the action of much moisture, and for this reason a material should be chosen that will resist this action as much as possible. Cypress more than any other wood will fulfill this requirement, and if it is pos- sible to secure it, should be used. No great difficulty will be encountered In making this box. The making of two slots in the ends for hand-holds will be best accomplished by first boring holes of the right size for the ends of slots and removing remainder of material with a chisel. Holes should be bored in the bottom to provide a means for the surplus water to escape when contents of the box are watered. Assembling should be very carefully done. It is recom- mended that screws be used for fastening all parts together — llat-head screws for bottom and round-head screws for sides. Notice direction of rings of growth in side, pieces and fasten them to end supports so the crown of the board, which will result when it warps, will be out. If it is placed so the crown is in. the warping of pieces will cause top and bottom edges to curl outward, destroying the neat appearance of the box. Boxes should be painted first, as a matter of appearance and second, to aid in resisting the action of the weather, i (lark shade of green paint will give excellent results. PLATE 72 MT 148 HAND CRAFT PROJFXTS SUBMARINE For the submarine select a soft piece of pine wood. With a good sharp knife whittle parts F and G from a piece aljout 10 inches lon^. They can I)c sawed to proper length after they have been formed, and by cutting them from a long piece enough stock is availalile for holding while whittling. Bore hole through part F for wire. Now cut part A from any tin can. bend and tadi to parts just made. Maite ports C and D of wood and fasten with tacks to A. Drive brad as indicated by dotted lines in part G and bend head, making hook for rubber band. Bend wire and place in part F, after which propeller is soldered to it. Do not forget to place glass bead between propeller and part F before soldering propeller to wire. Hook a rubber band to end of wire and also to l)rad bent for this purpose. Make keel, part B. and tac'k in place. Also rudder E. Paint niod<'l to keep tin from rusting and wood from soaking water. ' To operate submarine hold in hand and wind propeller by handle. When rubber band is wound tight, and rudder is s<'t, place in water, and it w'ili dive. The angle will depend on the angle at which rudder is bent. PLATE ri! 149 Submarine Rudder E hi) I Propeller PartF ^^SA >SH) Wood /r^/. a D-25 Pefisce pe L i'j Woorf T .^ ^la^^o ---i N ^ z % e-<o^-^v>'a^'^^^'<M£!'^* «&•«»> -1 ' laf^e Rub^ef Bond Solder Vlire To Propeller P/^ar A Tjn L y-^ . 1 VJqpd 150 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS PHONOGRAPH DANCER The phonograph Uanocr Is not hard to make although it must bo construotf'd accurately to work well. First make Ijoard to which blocks are fastened; it may be made of cigar box lumber. Next make blocks and fasten In place with cigar box nails. The blocks are lettered D and E. Now bore a hole through either a square or round piece C to fit a meat skewer, which usually comes with a roast and is the shape and size of a slate pencil. Bore a hole in the bottom board to receive C and glue it in place. Make part A. cutting with a jack knife. Bore a hole at -center, that tits the spindle that holds the phonograph record. The spindle must lit hole tightly. ^lake peg V. and glue in the bottom board. It must fit in A loosely. Cut a clothes pin for body of the man as shown In the drawing, and l>ore a hole in which to glue the skewer stick. Make arms and legs of cardtioard and fasten to body ^\ith cigar box nails. Pa;nt all parts with water colors. A poor job of painting may spoil the appearance of the dancer. To operate, place record on spiuiUc. Place part A on spindle and pi'g B in hole with D resting on box outside of revolving record. Now drop end of skewer in C and as the point runs up and down in cuts made in A the man will danco and cut all kinds jf funny capers. PLATE 74 ISJ 152 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS TELEPHONE SCREEN An article of this kind should he rather delkato lu appear ance, and for this reason the stock used is but %-lnch thick. This Is thin enough to look well, and yet will permit of sul) stantlal construction. The kind of material to be used will depend upon thi' hnlsh jou wish to give it. Staining and painting are both attractive. If it is to be stained, a wood having an interest ing grain should be used. If painting is to be the finishing method, a wood with little or no grain may I)e used. Get out all the pieces to the greatest dimensions Indi- cated. Pieces that have edges that are not parallel to each other should lie cut to shape after assembling is done. All Joints are to be half lap. These are not difficult to make and good results should be attained. Lay out and cut them very accurately. W'h'^n you think the work is sati.sfactorily done, put parts together, and cut out inside corners to fit pamus to be used. No dimension is shown for this, as depth of cut will depend upon kind of panel usid. For instance, if cardboard covered with silk is used, depth will likely be less than an eighth of an inch. Decide upon what material you wish to use, and then cut the groove accordingly. When all parts fit well, sand and glue together. The stock is so thin that brads cau hardly l>e used, so pieces will have to he clamped together until dry. When glue has set, the- two side pieces should be cut to match slant at top of main section. Sand any rough places and then fit the hinges. Staining can be done w"ith the hinges in place, or they may be removed. Finishing should be such as to match the material used for the panels. Staining or painting is satisfactory. The screen from which this drawing was made hail a panel of silk with a .lapanese effect. There were Ifiack spots in design, body lieing yellow. Black enamel was used on frame and inside of hand-hold at top was painted yellow. The effect was very pleasing. A little study will bring out many possibilities. PLATE 75 153 Section Throuoh AB Telephone, screen. Paint Or 3t/>in Frame To Suit Kind Of Wood And P^ncl Useo P-ANELS M ay- Be Cardboard Cove red With Fabric, Or Thin Wood Hake Depth Suitable To A Panel Used This ScREtN ■SiiirAOL£ To MANf Othkr Uaes . y^LL Joints Half Lap £3 SeCTloi^ TJ-iRouoH CD INDEX Aeroplaue Weathervuue, 64, 65. Baby Auto Car, 142, 143. Baby's Rocking Horse, 70, 71. Bag runclier, lOS, 109. Bath Kooni Cup Holder, 4«, 47. Bits and Drilis, 21, 22. Bob Sled, SO, SI. Boy's Handy Wagon, 122, 123. Boy Scout's Heliograph Outfit, 04, 95. Brads, Screws and Fastenings. 23, 24. Bull Dog. 138. 139. Chair Lamp, 134, 133. Child's Morris Chair. 40, 41. Child's Snow Shovel, 98, 99. Christmas Tree Stand, 140, 141. Combination Bench Hook, 30, 37. Common Joints, 10, 13. Commonly Used Hardware. 15-20. Construction Problems. 10. 12. Crumb Tray, 84, 85. Cutting Board, 42, 43. Feeding Bird, 54, 55. Finish, 25. Fly Trap, 144, 145. Flying Propeller, 56, 57. Ground Scratcher. 9(j, 97. Hallowe'en Fun Makers, 120, 127. High Speed Drill, S2. S3. Hula Dancers, 71, 75. Jack Be Nimble, 92, 93. .Tumping .Tack, 72, 73. Kites, 100, 1(11. Laying-Oul Tools, 26. 27. Leg Kest, 130, l.'i7. Letter Hack, 112, 113. Low Folding Table. 110, 111. Lumber, S. Mechanical Duck, 76, 77. Mouse Trap, 120, 121. Ornamental Garden Sticks. 118. 119. Personal Equipment. 8, 9. Phonograph Dancer, 150, 151. Pin and Ball Game, 130, 1.31. Planes, 28, .31. Planing and Scoring llnles, 30, 33. Plant Box, 140, 147. Potato Gun, 5S, 59. Puzzles, 102, 103. Ued Cross Amtiulaiue. 6.8, 69. Sail Boat. 132. 1.'53. Sandpai)er and Finish, 25. Saws, 28. 29. Scoring Uulea, 32. Scout Flrenmktng Set, iS. 71). Sewing Companion. 110. 117. Shop Kinks and Informallou, l.*> Shop Notes iinil Kll(|U<'tte, 7. Silhouette Camorn, 111. ll.'i. Simple and Sonlcinlilc King Uuldcr, 88, S7. Skate Sharpener, 4s. i<j. Small Carl. 00, 07. Standanls ami ronviMillonii. 10. II. Steam Engine. 50. .11. Straddle Ilorse. 106, 107 Subnnirlne. 148. vp.i Target Pistol, 90. 91. Telephone Screen. 152, 153. Thanksgiving C... I. bier, 62, 03. Tools, H, 10. Toy Cannon, 44. 4.5. Toy Elephant. 52. 53. Toy Pig, 38, 39. Toy Rabbit, 88. SO. Traveler's Case. 124, 125. Trench Mortar. 101. 105. Wind Mill and Acrobat, 128, r21). Wooden Doll. 00, 01. Work Bench, 34, 35. 156 HAND CRAFT PROJECTS Contents of Books II and III •Jig Saw Wren House Feeding Tray Easter Chickens Work Bench Hissing Uaveu Turning Saw Easter Toy Baby's Bed Child's Toilet Seat Bow Gun Laundry Box Invalid's Table Little K.J Hen Drawing Table Umbrella Stand Fly Swatters Doll Costumer Sword and Gun Grocery List Hammock Clock Case Double Windmill Glider SHng Shot Jumping Jack Smoking Cabinet Toy A^'heelbarrow Turning Lathe Blue Bird House Bank Dressing Table Shoe Shine Cabinet Test Tube Hack Fire Side Bench Christmas Tree Table Floor Lamp Nursery Chair Box Wheelbarrow Mail Box Automatic Doctor Quack Mule and Kider Toy Wagon Salt Shaker Holder Toy Wheelbarrow- Game of Hearts Dart Game Flour Box Tonel Rack Bread Board Bingo Stick Wood Pincers String Winder and Cutter Scout's Belt Kit Door Weight Martin Plouse Sewing Cabinet Toy Giral'fe Drill Tress Ttimbling Toby Caning Typewriter Table Toy Box Book Ends Fireless Cooker Support Japanese Chair Fighting Bull Dogs Tea Shooter Doll Cradle Tin Can Engine Dancing Jim Nail Box Newspaper Hohler Bird Houses Cold Box Robin and Wren Box Match Box Piano Bench Child's Coloniiil Chair and Table Marble Game Aeroplane Pencil Box ^^'indow■ Screen Lemonade Stand Frame for Child's .>wing Paint Remover Doll Costumer Book Trough Doll's High Chair Toy Goat Baby's Bed String Winder Gej'ser Match Box Auto Creeper Teddy Bear Blacksmiths Plant Box Sidewalk Coaster Hammock Foot Bench Bob Sled Arm Chair Magazine Stand Dutch Windmill Candle Holder and Bank Shoe Polishing Stand Bank How to Can? a Seat Doll Cab Tooth Pick Toys Game of Hearts Book Trough and Shelf George Washingti-n Toy Christmas Tree Table Shoe Brush Holder Watch Holder Ball Holder Sling Shot Glider Waten Gun Doll Cradle Window Ventilator Fourth ot July Outfit Sprinkler Doll House Turning Saw Tooth 7'asteand Brush Holder Footmobile Tin Lined Plant Box HAND CRAFT PROJECTS '" Contents of Books II and III — Concluded Flag Holder Solitaire Auto Tnii-k Hook Siipporm Sewinf? Cciniiiiun.m Child's Tea Cart Broinii Holder Mlknd" I'liizli- Fire Side Seat Scarf Pin Holder Clirlslniaa Uei ■iriilimi TrclllB Tool Case Lap Board T.ihnrith Dart niid Tnrp't <;nii.p Child's Wash Beiieh Medicine Caliinet Kat Trap DoH'k Swlnc Doll Bed Picture Krame Towel Holder And I'life'eii of Inforuiiitlon Taint and Shellac Can Armoured Car Clocli Case Thesa projects can be had in card form for class work. They are put up in sets, a list of which will be sent on application. The Uiucf Publishing Co., Milwaukee. Wis. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. NOV 2 41986 3 1158 01126 4511 6 000 003 246 ^:€««ii^^ STACQ >