text:
Quote, originally posted by David@vwvortex » All VAG paint code information courtesy of OhioBenz.
Quote, originally posted by David@vwvortex » All VAG paint code information courtesy of OhioBenz.
Quote, originally posted by koston. » The dealer has new plastic dip stick tubs in stock for your ABA. Part Number - 053-103-663 $2.52 of good preventative maintenence.
Quote, originally posted by FlyersFn32 » Good link of DIYs:
Quote, originally posted by G60syncro » On my 2.0 16v swap I got rid of AC and PS and I used a MkII manual steering rack with Canadian MkIII manual steering tierods. When you get the steering rack, you'll also need the universal shaft that goes between it and the steering column. I also have a 5 lug plus suspension setup on mine, so everything is bolt-on regardless of wether you have a 4cyl, or a VR. The tierods should be available in the States too since they're "NA market", it's not some "part unavailable Euro bullsh.."
Here's the part list:
191 419 063 C: MkIII steering rack
191 419 063 B: MkII steering rack if you can't get the MkIII one.
1H1 419 952: Lower universal shaft (top part is the same on all MkIII)
191 419 951: That's the one piece MkII universal shaft like I used if you can't find the correct MkIII part.
1H0 419 803 / 804: L/R manual steering tierods
191 419 875: You'll need a second clamp strap like the one you already have on the PS rack.
191 419 831: Manual rack boots
If you don't have AC, just ditch the v-belt and you're good to go... If you're deleting AC, then just use the AC delete belt for your application. About VR's I have no clue because they use the serpentine to drive the PS pump. If somebody figured out a length and part number, please PM me... I'll add the info.
Hope that helps.
Quote, originally posted by Georgie M3 » I baught a 1995 golf auto 2.0 bout 2 years ago. After about a month sometimes the gears didn't want to change. It would stay stuck in second or third. When going uphill the car would get stuck in gear, and id have to shut off the car and start it again. So before deciding that the tranny was blown or anything to that nature, i went to pepboys and baught a bottle of lucas transmission treatment. (The big bottle) Unfortunately, i couldn't find a cap or anything to pour it into.... You can still do it..
1)Make sure your car is cold (sat over-night) this will blend the lucas well with your current transmission fluid.
2) Take a razor blade and cut the cap of the bottle (dont cut too much, cause it will come pouring out too fast)
3) Remove the transmission dipstick. (NOT THE OIL DIPSTICK).. The transmission dipstick is smaller then the oil one.
4) Take top of bottle where you cut, and place it inside of the dipstick transmission line.
5) Squeeze the bottle slowly. It should start pouring in. Squeezing it too hard will cause the lucas treatment to leak out.
6) After about 5 mins you will notice some of the fluid leaking out from the side of the dipstick tube. Dont be scared. It slowly pours its way down. Remember, the fluid is very thick, so it takes some time to get down there.
7) Pour entire contents in. Squeezing the bottle slowly from time to time.
Should take about 10-15 mins..
When the bottle is empty, put the transmission dipstick back and start the car. Let the car warm up and then take it for a test run.
I didn't see an immediate result, It took about an hour for the lucas to completely blend with the transmission fluid. The next day - the present i noticed my car wasnt getting stuck into gear, went uphill more smoothly, and shifted smoothly even during a heatwave in the summer.
Try this before considering ur transmission toast..
This is to my own knowledge and experiance. It might or might not work for you. But if it does work, kudos to you.. You just solved your problem for 8-9 dollars [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Quote, originally posted by Breezy. » The airbox/intake modification:
Enjoy the noticeable performance from these modifications. My track times prove it. I did this for the performance of course, but the sound that comes with it is unbelievable. You will have heads turning left and right when they hear it. There is no other naturally aspirated 12V VR6 that I have heard that sounds as incredible as this. Good luck. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
To prove the gains for this airbox modification, I provided a link of my dyno with such minimal modifications (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2899452). My track times prove that modifying the airbox is the way to go on these cars. (14.5@96mph with a terrible 2.31 60ft)
Best bang for the buck is as follows...
Let me say that you are almost definitely losing power with a cone filter, instead of the airbox in place because you are sucking in hot air from the motor. Cone filters work in either a cold air intake or when being used with a heat shield. To further prove to you the power loss of a cone filter in place of an airbox, here is a dyno test from Techtonics Tuning of an open-element conical filter versus an airbox. There is quite a drastic loss in power with the conical filter. http://www.techtonicstuning.co...7.JPG
First, buy a K&N (or ITG) drop-in panel filter.
What I did, and what many others do, is modify the stock airbox. All you really need is a dremel, or maybe a utility knife, if that may work [I used a dremel].
Next, is cutting out part of the front/fender side of the airbox. I used a ruler and straight blade to slightly draw out where I wanted to cut exactly. I used many of the airboxs lines to cut the cleanest looking cut. Those who say to swiss cheese doesn't make sense when you can just cut a whole clean piece from the airbox. It will flow better air and look much more professional/clean. You honestly can't tell the airbox is modified if you do it in this manner.
Here is my setup.
Here with K&N panel filter inside...
In the upper airbox, there is a duct in the upper section of the airbox that I removed. Notice the difference in diameter after removing the duct. Quite bigger and it also sucks more air in from the whole panel, rather than a portion before.
To remove air duct, take two flatheads and stick in between the duct and upper airbox, unplugging the tabs. Leave the flatheads in there after unplugging the tabs. Then, take small pliers and grab a nice hold of the duct and pull out with some force.
NOTICE: Some people say this duct basically acts like a velocity stack and that it helps directs air to the MAF. Not sure how much it helps or doesn't, however, I still opted to take it out. I'm willing to sacrifice this piece by looking at the bore of the intake afterwards.
With the duct in the upper airbox...
Without the air duct...Notice the difference?
And the velocity stack removed from the airbox.
Remove this plastic honeycomb piece from the MAF. It's there to give the MAF the most accurate readings, but Ive been running without this piece for a long time without any problems. If anything, it helped.
Take the following from someone on the 300zxclub.com forums:
"Removing the mesh on ya mass airflow sensor (MAS) will up the boost on turbo'd vehicles a couple pounds....this allows for more air to enter with less restriction...did this on my skyline...probably do some good for NA too.
But... the mesh is there for a reason....the mesh channels the air through the MAS and onto the sensor...without it, there is an argument that the sensor may be getting an incorrect reading...but it worked for me....its up to you...
On the 300ZX if you do the mesh removal, you will increase air volume from 300cfm to about 700cfm. It will increase your boost and your responce, and will get rid of most of your hesitation problems...... oh, and it should lean her out a bit too, good for those of you with hight boost.
And iv'e seen articles where LS1's are being dyno tuned with the mesh removed."
That plastic piece removed gives you a straight through MAF
Remove this duct from the front of the airbox. This piece is pointless now that the airbox is opened up and there is no velocity sucking air from it anymore. It just blocks air from the front of the airbox now. If it wasnt cut open, then this duct would makes sense. I removed it completely.
Remove this piece from the fender area. There is no point of it now that the duct is removed. It also gives a little more air from the fender area.
And the result of that being removed is more air from the fender area
And some shots of how the airbox sits
Quote, originally posted by Massboykie » Below is a link to a DIY to modify the VR6 PCV valve one the Jetta GLX or GTI (AAA) after mine tore off. (hose and valve fits between valve cover and air intake hose)
Hopefully it will save people some money. Been on my car for about 3 months now, works like a charm. Idling has stabilised (the tear caused a vacuum leak) and no more oil dripping over the exhaust manifold!
I made it up as a PDF so it can be downloaded and saved.
Quote, originally posted by The A1 and A2 German » SAFE MODE UNLOCKED *SAVE AS*
To re-set Bose deck from Safe Mode
1) Hold MODE + SEEK + both SCAN buttons for 5 seconds
2) Use # pads 1 through 4 to adjust the code sequence till you've reached your code
3) Hold MODE + SEEK + both SCAN buttons for 5 seconds, release, and allow a couple seconds for it to set.
1) Your code is in your Manuel of all places.
2) Adjustante to your spare tire, on the Jetta consumer label in white, many times your code will appear on this label.
3) Pull your deck out: Some units will require a special pull tab locks to release the locking mechanisms that are holding your deck along with the obvious screws. Once pulled, there is 4 digit code on the top of the deck, however not the # that unlocks yours, can be relayed to the dealership for your code needed for $.
FYI- Dealership have done this service in the past for free, however as of now foward all services are charged by the hour.
Quote, originally posted by ghoxt » PS: I love the back illuminated needles!
I was bored with my old interior look, so I decided to go for something different.
Did you liked?
PS: I love the illuminated needles!
At this part, you have to open the gauges.
In the side, have some fasteners to release
When released, you will see the Printed Circuit Board of the cluster
The LCD screen is welded in the PCB, and you have to take off this weld like th red rectangle
When to take off the weld, the PCB will be free, and you can see the SME GREEN Leds.
Now what you have to do is change this green leds for the red
Now what you have to do is change this green leds for the red
Change the original gauges for this bought at ebay
Only put the 3mm leds, or SME Leds (like the red dots) in the back of each needle!
Like the RED DOTS!
PS: I used a Mk4 needles!
I sanded a little bit the needle's base for a perfect fit!
Put the needles at ZERO POSITION[/b[
Test using a 12V before close
Close the housing
***Sorry guys for the missing links. I am working on finding them. To the OP, if you can please send the original files to me so I vwvortex can host them***Nater
Quote, originally posted by 95GolfIIIGL » http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2750141
When I was looking for one of these, I came up with one for the MK4. It was great, and really helped direct me, but it left some things out and had some things confusing, so I figured we needed one for our cars. Here's a link to the DIY whose example I followed (always cite your sources) http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1722551. This DIY is for a 2 liter w/o ABS, and involves removing the steering knuckle so that it can be brought somewhere, and the bearings pressed out and in. You will need an alignment after this. So, let's get started...
What you will need:
-Breaker Bar and/or Torque wrench (I used a breaker Bar)
-Sockets (13mm, 8mm, 19mm deep, 30mm deep)
-3" extender for sockets
-19mm wrench
-Phillips-Head Screw Driver
-Tierod End Remover
-Smaller flathead screwdriver
-Tire Iron/Lug bolt remover
-PB Blaster (liquid wrench or something else if you'd like is acceptable)
-Jack and Jack Stands
-If you have access to impact tools or an air gun, it will be a huge help
-OH, and, Wheel Bearing Kit! Can be purchased for $24.99 from autohausaz.com, or around $30 from GAP
Got everything? Let's start!
1) Using your flathead screwdriver, remove the cover in the center of your wheels to expose the hubcentric nut. This is the 30mm nut that will be a pain in the arse. You must loosen this nut, but do not remove it all the way. Here is where air tools or an impact gun would really help. If you don't have access to these, you can use your breaker/torque wrench. I actually went to a shop up the street and had them loosen the nuts for me.
2) Once you've got your nut loose, Jack up the car and support it with your jack stands. Now remove the lug bolts and the wheel. With the wheel off and out of the way, it's time to get to the real work.
3) The first thing to remove is your caliper and caliper bracket. Your caliper bracket is held on by two 17mm bolts behind the rotor. You should be able to remove the whole caliper and bracket assemly at once, but if you can't, you can remove the caliper itself by removing the 13mm bolts that hold the caliper in (found near the 17mm bolts) and removoving the caliper and brake pads.
4) DO NOT let the caliper hang by the brake line. Instead, using your twine or wire, suspend the caliper from the springs.
5) Remove the phillips head screw from the rotor. If your screw is rusted in, you may beed to put the screwdriver in place and tap it a couple times with your hammer. I ended up having to drill one of the screws out, but managed not to destroy the threads. Once the screw is out, remove the rotor (if your rotor feels a little rusted on, you can tap the inner edges on the back of it with the hammer lightly. This will help get it off).
6) Now remove the dust shield using your 8mm socket. There are two nuts that need to be removed, then it should come right off. Mine is a little bent and rusted from one bad night (don't ask)
7) Time to remove the Tierod End! First you will have to remove the 19mm nut on the bottom of the tie rod end. this nut can be on really tight, which is why we are doing this step first, with everything else still attatched. Once this nut is off, you will need your tierod end remover. Insert the wedge end inbetween the knuckle and the tierod end, and hammer the other end until the tierod end and the knuckle seperate. Mine were on really tight, so it took a while. [Note: it might be a good idea to put on new tierod ends. They are $18 each from GAP. Also, you should use this opportunity to check the stiffness of your inner tierods]
8) With the Tierod now disconnected, It's time to go after the three bolts on the bottom of your control arm. These 13mm bolts hold the ball joint to the control arm. You will want to remember how tight they were/how much they protruded from the control arm. One easy way to do this is to mark their position. Then go ahead and remove them. The control arm will now be seperated from the steering knuckle. You should now remove the Hubcentric nut that you loosesned at the beggining, and the washer underneath it.
9) Now Loosen the 19mm nuts and bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut. You may have to hold the nuts in place while turning the bolts. this is where that 19mm wrench comes in handy. Once these nuts are loose, but not out, it is time to remove the axle stub from the steering knuckle. Pushing the axle into the steering knuckle, you will be able to turn the steering knuckle and swing it away from the axle. The axle stub should come out of the steering knuckle, and you can swing the knuckle to the side. Now finish removing the bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut (bottom first), and voila!
10) Your steering knuckle is now removed and ready to be taken away to have your old bearings pressed out, and your new pressed in. Then, you get to put it all back together, and bring it for an alignment! Yay!
-When reassembling, you may want to use thread anti-sieze on some of the bolts that gave you trouble .
-If your axle stub doesn't want to come out of the steering knuckle, put the 30mm nut back on and thread it until it is flush with the end of the stub. then you can hit it a few times to drvie the stub out without mushrooming the end of the stub.
-Try blasting EVERY nut, bolt, and screw with PB Blaster or whatever you are using a day in advance, and then again at the start of your project. many of these nuts and bolts may have been rarely or never removed, thus they may be rusted into place.
Soooooo That's it! Pictures, directions, and all. I hope everyone likes it, and that it helps some folks, because Vortex and freinds have helped me a ton. If you find some of the pictures confusing, I took them during the reassembly, so some nuts and new and the hub had been resurfaced.
Quote, originally posted by SilverBullet006 » OK, Here is my contribution...
DIY for recovering the MK3 Head liner...
Original thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2733846
Note that the MK2 Headlinner has a ''fiberglass shell'' but the MK3 does NOT. It is constructed in a manner of layers: Fabric, foam, construction paper, more foam, last sheet of construction paper.
When I did mine, I did not do what the MK2 fellows do, such as tear off old fabric and scrub off foam residue to leave but the shell.
I was kind of worried that if I tried to take off the old fabric, it would pull some foam off as well and end up tearing out spots of the construction paper. That would have turned out a disaster...beeing that there is no shell. I would have ended up with holes in the headlinner.
Therefor, I stuck my fabric right over the original one, since it was freshly vaccumed, and had no saggin spots.
It is a good idea to have an other set of helping hands! It took me 3 hours to do a great job.
1- What I did is that I got 2 BIG cans of 3M Super 77 spray adhesive:
2- Then I took my fabric of choice, in my case black Suede.
3- I started by laying-out the fabric on the headlinner and cut off excess. Made sure I was setting the head linner on a solid surface.
4- I left about 6 inches all around to make the final edges and give slack for all the recesses to get filled. Note that the picture was taken after everything was stuck on. The 6 inches I left turned out to give me enough to do the edges.
5- Once layed out flat and trimmed, I over lapped the fabric on it self, using the rear handle recesses as an imaginary guide line. There fore, I had both suede sides facing each other, folded one on each other, revealling the rear of the head liner from the handles to the back.
6- I applied some of the spray adhesive, going from the left of the head linner to the right, moving towards the back only about 15-18 inches. I then added a coat on the back side of the suede in the same motion. While doing this, it allowed the coat on the head linner to cure a little. I then added a second coat going from back to front ( opposite direction ) and did the same on the fabric.
7- I used a Richard's yellow handle fabric roller (seen in this pic...) to roll the freshly glued fabric in all the corners.
8- Once the fabric rolled in, I proceded to move towards the back an other 1 ft or so repeating steps 6 and 7.
9- Once the back half was done to satisfaction, I flipped the other half of the non glued fabric over the newly finished glued back half.
10- Repeated steps 6 and 7 for everything done towards the front.
11- I started doing the edges and folding them back. By now you should be runnig low on glue. It is important to apply lots of it and wait between coats for it to cure to have optimal results, as I have seen some that have been cheap on it and their ''new'' head linner is already sagging!
12- Cut out all holes and reinstall linner.
13- Have a sit in theese...
Enjoy what you have accomplished!
If I can give a hint, it would be wise to cut an X ( corner to corner ) where the Dome Light Switch goes prior to rolling it once glued. It will allow you to roll the fabric correctly into that curb ( right where the miror is, between the switch and windshield ) and reduce the chance of having creasses.
Make it a bit smaller that the actual cut-out, cause you will want to make a nice border after. Besides, you don't know exactly how the fabric stretches and you could end-up having a cut in the fabric where you don't want to.
In a SHORTER VERSION:
Thanks to Kevin
Quote, originally posted by xtomkx » Window Regulator Removal
Quote, originally posted by Gibson5469 » Well I had painted on pinstriping on 75% of my car, one door and a fender had perfect matching pin striping tape.
Because the previous owner didn't want to pull up the old stuff, he layed white pinstriping over everything.
1. Wash your car really well
2. Get some Goof Off, this is some powerful ish
3. Your going to need atleast 2 rags. I used microfiber towels.
4. Squirt a bit of Goof Off on one rag, only about the size of a quarter (remember this is really strong)
5. Start rubbing/scraping the pin striping off.
6. Before the paint you rubbed off dries, follow through with a clean rag in a buffing motion.
7. Keep doing this, adding more Goof Off when the paint stops rubbing off.
8. If you get any "hazy" spots from the pinstriping paint put a dab of Goof Off on the same rag you've been using, and wipe the spot down.
9. Quickly "buff" this spot out with the clean rag.
10. Wash your car again
It took me 1 1/2 hours to do basically the whole car. Getting the painted pinstriping off was easier than the glue the tape left behind
EDIT - This only works if the pinstripes were painted over the clearcoat.
Quote, originally posted by FlyersFn32 » This is the harness that came with my ecodes:
I went out with a multimeter and found out the following data. As always, I am not responsible for anything you do to your car. The following is simply a reference for what worked on MY car. That said, I see no reason why it wouldn't work in any scenario.
Quote, originally posted by soccergk » DIY smoked fogs
You will need:
High temp black paint
Masking/painters tape
A type of silicone glue/sealant (black would work best to get the full smoked effect)
Razor blade
Rubbing alcohol
Screw driver(s)
If one or both of your lenses in cracked when removing it will come off in two pieces
1. Remove fogs from bumper may be tricky. The first time I tried to get my fogs out I had to pull the bumper. Today I pulled my bumper because I was working on some other things. If you are pulling the bumper reach in where the turn signal is and detach the fog light harness before removing the bumper because the wires are very short.
2. Loosen adjuster screw. It is a hex screw however I used a small flat blade screwdriver, be careful not to strip it. Loosen until the projector piece is separate from the lens piece.
3. There are two clips on each side. Using a small screw drive lift then up very carefully because they will snap. Wiggle off until the 2 pieces are completely separated.
This is the clip, you can see how it locks in with a tab
4. Use a razor to go around the edge of the glass and cut the existing glue
5. Use a screw driver and loosen the glass from the plastic, you may need to use the razor again. If it is being stubborn you may want to use a heat gun or hair dryer help loosed the glue. Be careful of the glass chipping.
6. Remove glass. If your lens in cracked this is where it will split in two.
7. Use rubbing alcohol to clean where you will be painting. While you are at it you may as well clean the glass too.
8. Tape off the plastic housing so no paint will go in the creases where you will be gluing the glass back in
9. Using high temp black paint evenly spray both pieces. Start with a light coat then do a second coat, or however many you feel it needs.
10. Remove tape and wipe lens and where the glue will be going with alcohol.
11. Using the silicone run a continuous bead all around the crease where the glass goes. (I did not remove the old glue because it had a shape to it the acted like a gasket.) If your lens is cracked put some glue in between the two pieces. (dont worry about it squeezing out, you can remove it when it dries.)
12. Put glass back on and squeeze firmly. Run your finger along the edge to remove any extra glue and to seal the glass in completely (be careful of glass chips). If you have some sort of clamp that you can use to hold the glass in place that would work fine. I did not use a clamp or vice and it worked out fine. If you are using silicone, dont worry if some glue gets on the lens, once it dried you can rub it off.
13. Allow time to dry and set
14. Admire your hard work
updated pic! i just redid them with the black silicone and replaced my cracked lense. and they came out a 10000x better with the black.
Quote, originally posted by brettpep » For those of you who need a little extra oil capacity- use a W12 oil filter and housing on your VR6. I don't have the housing number (I'll find it and post it), but the filter number is 07C 115 562. They must be used in conjunction with each other. Adds almost another quart of capacity and keeps your oil temps lower in the summer.
Quote, originally posted by V a V jetta W 3 6 » I did this DIY on my Helix/Inpro r32/mk4 looks. It may work the same on others but im not sure.
Well, i promised a write-up for the about and for those who want to attempt it yourselves. In this DIY we are going to do the initial install using dual relays without the slight fabrication. I may cover this later on but until i figure out where to hide the ballasts, ignitors, and modify the back, youll just have to figure it out on your own.
Tools Needed:
- Pliers
- Philips head screw driver
- Fused Link
- HID system
- 6 female spade connectors
- 2 male female connectors
- battery terminal connector
- Electrical tape
The first thing you want to do is to remove the grille:
Then remove the 4 bolts bolting the headlight to the rad support.
Now, this is what we will be working with. The bottom box shows a E46 HID system. D2R bulb,
ignitor unit, and ballast. with bulb connector Above is what we will be modifying in the headlight ONLY!
The first thing we want to do is to remove the yellow wire and ground wires from the back of the H7 Bulb. This can be difficult if never removed before. We will use these to activate the relay system.
Remove the bulb by using the pliers to remove the bulb holder.halogen
This is with the bulb removed.
Put D2R bulb inside with the return wire facing 6 o clock in reference to looking at the headlight while on the car. There is a notch that should be held in place by a bump in the holder.
Put halogen bulb holder AROUND the D2R bulb by hooking the top first, and then the 2 ends last. Using the pliers carefully.
Screw the xenon wire connector onto the end of the bulb. You should be able to figure out how it goes on. This photo shows the connector on aswell as the ignitor unit that I taped on just to hold it as I put the headlight back in.
Now connect the yellow and brown from the inside of the headlight that was removed from the H7 bulb to prongs 85 and 86 of the relay. It doesnt matter which wire goes on which. This is what will activate the relay.
Now, you can ground the ballasts any way you want to, but what I did was split the brown wire in half and added a male connector that will be pluged into by the female connector that will be crimped on the ground wire of the ballast.
Ground wire from the ballast connected to the male connector.
A wire will need to be ran that will run from the battery(which has the terminal connected to it that will connect from the battery to a fused link, that has to wires that split off. One will go to the driverside headlight that has a female connector at the end. This will plug into number 30 of the relay. The other wire will run to the passenger side and will too have a female connector that will plug into number 30 of that relay.
Once this is done, it should look like this, most of the mess will be covered the headlight back covering.
Now do this to the other side and after that is complete, turn on your headlights to see if they come on. Mine came on first try.
To clean up the install, find a good place suitable for the ignitor unit and ballast, preferably on the inner fenders.
at night on the wall:
Quote, originally posted by TRAP STAR » http://www.vwgenuineparts.com
I can keep going...
World Impex: http://www.worldimpex.com
1st VW Parts: http://www.1stvwparts.com/ (Associated with Auburn VW, Auburn Washington)
Volks Parts: http://www.volksparts.com/
Samstag Sales: http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm (Source for VW Tools and Parts)
Sirs Tools: http://www.gprparts.com/brands/sirtools/vw.asp (Source for VW Tools)
Virtual World Parts Inc.: http://www.parts4vws.com/
Quote, originally posted by TRAP STAR » Vee Parts: http://www.veeparts.com/
Techtonics Tuning: http://www.techtonicstuning.com/ (performance parts)
RPI Equipped: http://www.rpi-equipped.com/
Rapid Parts Online: http://www.rapidparts.com/
PAP Parts: http://www.pap-parts.com/
German Parts Warehouse: http://www.germanpartshaus.com/ (Used Parts)
GAP (German Autoparts): http://germanparts.com/
European Precision: http://www.euroselect.com/ (No Online Sales, but be sure to get their catalog, great prices on OEM parts)
Autohaus AZ: http://www.autohausaz.com/
Adirondack Auto Brokers: http://www.germanautoparts.com/
Quality VW Parts: http://www.qualityvwparts.com/
Diesel Geek: http://www.dieselgeek.com/ (Short Shift Kits and TDI Timing Belt Kits)
Missing Linkz: http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ (Short Shift Kits, specialty bushings)
Atlantic Imported Auto Supply: http://www.volksparts.com/
Performance Cafe: http://www.performance-cafe.com/
Blaufergnugen: http://www.blauparts.com/ (Mostly Audi, but some VW)
Auto Tech Parts: http://www.autotechparts.com/
Bow Wow: http://www.bowwowseattle.com/
Drew Parts: http://www.drewparts.com/
PG Performance: http://www.pgperformance.com/ (Performance Parts)
Evolution Auto: http://www.evolutionimport.com/ (Performance Parts)
Street Werke: http://www.streetwerke.com/ (Performance Parts)
Euro Gear: http://www.eurogearusa.com/ (Body Kits)
New South Performance: http://www.newsouthperformance.com/vw.htm (Gauge Kits)
EIP Tuning: http://www.eiptuning.com/ (Performance Parts and Complete Engines)
ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/ (Performance Parts)
Pro Imports: http://www.pro-imports.com/ (Performance Parts)
NGP Racing: http://www.ngpracing.com/ (Performance Parts)
GHL Motorsports: http://www.ghlmotorsports.com/ (Stainless Exhaust Systems)
Select Motor Sports: http://selectmotorsport.net/ (Performance Parts)
Supreme Power Sports: http://www.supremepowerparts.com/ (Performance Parts)
Drew Parts: http://www.drewparts.com/
Searched for "links"
OK, how about some vendors:
http://www.futrellautowerks.com (Forum sponsor is first )
http://www.newdimensions.com (have all types of parts like kamei, hagus, neuspeed)
http://www.neuspeed.com (obviously they have neuspeed stuff like plugs, swaybars, etcâ¦.)
http://www.autolamps-online.com (HID upgrades)
http://www.abdracing.com/ (products made by ABD, bonrath, wings west, zender, etcâ¦)
http://www.der-abt.de (a german site that offers the sweetest styling things)
http://www.amimotorsports.com/ (very good site with reiger, caractere, dietrech, mattig, etcâ¦)
http://www.autostyle.co.za/index800.htm (the cheapest prices known to man, but they are in South Africa and donât ship to US, good place to check out fellow Dubbers worldwide)
http://www.autotech.com/ (products like zender, quaife and euro products)
http://www.awe-tuning.com/ (have GIAC, H&R, brembo, etcâ¦.)
http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/ (stuff like bonrath, abt, caractere, and more, located in UK)
http://www.bildon.com/ (all sorts of racing equipment, also have quaifes)
http://www.cfimotorsports.com/ (Bonrath, brembo, eibach, caractere, brospeed and more)
http://www.colour-tuning.de/ (have all sorts of products, are in Germany though)
http://www.audituning.com/english/main.asp (a European site and carry products like JE Design)
http://www.drschrick.de/ (German site, home for Schrick manifolds)
http://www.dubtechnik.com/ (have nice products for suspension, wheels, and body styling)
http://www.eiptuning.com/ (have turbo systems, transmissions, intakes and more)
http://www.electrodyne.cc/ (have many products for everything)
http://www.europartsinc.com/ (six speed transmissions, 1.8t engine parts)
http://www.eurosportacc.com/ (have a lot of products but a bit pricey)
http://www.eurospeed.ca/ (many products like blow-off valves, more stuff)
http://www.eurosporttuning.com/ (basically only brakes, mostly for Volvos)
http://www.evolutionsports.com/ (have everything, headlights, aerodynamics and at good prices)
http://www.fknorthamerica.com/ (also have a lot of products for good prices)
http://www.pgperformance.com/ (have good products and prices, headlights, body styling)
http://www.freedomdesign.com/ (Kamei, also have their own line of products)
http://www.futrellautowerks.com/ (they have many products and good prices for everything)
http://www.hofeleusa.com/ (site for Hofele products, obviously, gives good pics)
http://www.c1vw.com/ (very good Canadian site, have many products)
http://www.hpamotorsport.com/ (have turbo kits for VW and brakes)
http://www.achtuning.com/ (carry ABT, AMS, and many other parts)
http://www.tracracing.com/ (has many different VW parts, Eibach)
http://www.imperialmotorsport.com/ (have group buys and a few other things)
http://www.importvision.com (not the best looking site but have really good prices)
http://www.in-pro.de/ (German site for In.Pro headlights and products)
http://www.schimmelperformance.com/ (they do custom work with intake tubes and other things)
http://www.jms-fahrzeugteile.de (they have Golf IV parts, not sure if they have anything others)
http://www.kraftswerk.com/ (have custom transmissions)
http://www.landspeedusa.com/ (have various aftermarket parts)
http://www.machvw.com/ (have all types of parts, too much to go through)
http://www.matrixengineering.cc (have engine, brakes, suspension, transmission, etcâ¦)
http://www.midknightmotorsport.com (have many products, have to call for the pricing and products)
http://moldynamics.com/ (have all Golf and Jetta MK3 and other parts)
http://www.newdimensions.com/ (have many different products, take a look for yourself)
http://www.ngpracing.com/ (have bonrath, hagus, kamei and other products)
http://www.o-bars.com/ (have all sorts of suspension swaybars and stress bars)
http://www.oettinger.com/ (VW styling products)
http://www.overboost.com (have way too many things to list and no place to start)
http://tuningzubehor.com (have many aftermarket parts for VW and other makes)
http://www.performance-cafe.com/ (have many products and specials all the time)
http://www.ptuning.com (have products for VW and other makes)
http://www.projektzwo.de/ (VW styling products and more, German site)
http://www.rapidparts.com/ (everyone knows them)
http://www.rieger-tuning.de/ (VW styling products and more, German site)
http://www.rmrautosport.com/ (have all types of parts for VW and other makes)
http://www.hellausa.com/ (VW lighting products and other things)
http://www.rpi-equipped.com/ (have tons of products and good pricing)
http://www.srsvw.com/ (have GIAC chips and suspension)
http://www.caractere-automobile.be (Caractere styling products for VW)
http://www.skperf.com/ (have some pretty nice aftermarket products)
http://www.estrictlyforeign.com/ (many people donât like them but they have good products, styling)
http://swgmotorsport.com/ (UK site and have some pretty sweet products)
http://www.tmtuning.com/ (really good products and prices for everything)
https://www.techtonicstuning.com (exhaust systems and more)
http://www.vagparts.com/ (random parts for VW makes)
http://www.vf-engineering.com/ (supercharger kits and more)
http://www.jshouseofeuro.com (good products and good prices)
http://platinumeuroparts.safeshopper.com (can find random neon lights and some random parts)
http://www.vwperformancenorth.com/ (have styling parts for VW models, kind of pricey)
http://www.volksdraggin.com/ (have all sorts of performance parts, brakes, styling, wheelsâ¦..)
http://www.1552design.com/ (again everyone knows this site, good products and prices)
http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/ (good prices and products, browse away)
http://www.altramotorsport.com/ (good prices and good specials)
http://www.bbrsportsline.com/ (all sorts of classy styling products, ABT, Caractere, AC snitzer (for BMW)
http://www.europeanspeedsport.com/ (Eibach, Neuspeed, PIAA, Borla, JOM, etcâ¦.)
http://www.evolution-racing.com/ (many performance parts, not only for VW)
http://www.gmpperformance.com/ (have various VW parts, mostly Mercedes though)
http://www.hopefungautoparts.com/ (Brembo, Hella, Bosch, and more)
http://www.momentummotor.com/ (some sweet products, and good prices)
http://www.motronixmotorsports.com/ (lots of products, very pricey though)
http://www.pes-tuning.com (all sorts of products, like exhaust, shifter, etcâ¦)
http://www.supremepowerparts.com/ (group buys a few other things)
http://www.wrdusa.com/ (VW racing, rally and road racing products)
http://www.fastvws.com (very good product and prices)
http://www.evoms.com/ (brakes, intakes, superchargers, and more)
http://www.zender.de/ (German styling company, very nice products)
http://www.z-engineeringusa.com/ (Supercharger kits for VW cars)
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/ (lighting, engine, styling, everything, very good site)
http://turn2usa.com (motor mounts, intakes, pulleys)
http://www.parts4vws.com (very popular sites, very good prices and products, have everything)
http://www.jrswaterworks.net (have to call for products and prices)
http://www.purems.com/ (all sorts of aftermarket products for VW and others)
http://www.goapr.com/ (turbo kits for VW, Audi, Porsche and exhausts)
http://www.ferodoracing.it/ (ferodo racing brake and brake kits)
http://8vturbo.com/ (turbo parts and other performance parts)
http://www.adrenalinmotorsport.com/ (various performance parts for VW)
http://www.advancedclutch.com (clutch kits for VW and other makes)
http://www.bonrath.de/ (Bonrath styling site, good pictures)
http://www.dietrich-tuning.de (Awesome VW styling part, German site)
http://www.mattig.de/ (Styling and Wheels for VW, German site)
Volkswagen OEM Parts
http://www.germanautoparts.com/ (a good place to get OEM parts, pretty good prices)
http://www.ecstuning.com/ (have OEM parts and wheel spacers)
http://www.futrellautowerks.com/ (they have many OEM products)
http://www.gprparts.com/ (have the basic list of OEM parts, a good source)
http://www.eurocullen.com/ (has euro parts and more, but I am not sure how to order, good pics though)
http://www.vwparts.com/ (a good place to find OEM parts)
http://www.1autobodyparts.com/ (has the best prices for some OEM parts)
http://www.partscomponents.com/ (also has the best OEM part prices, cheap shipping too)
http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/ (have most OEM parts for sale)
http://www.volksparts.com (OEM parts, a selection but not too big)
Things to Accessorize your VDUB with
http://www.autotoys.com (amazing prices on everything like alarms, cd players, dvd players, sweet place to hook up your ride with tvs and such)
http://www.americastire.com (good place to get tires and wheels from)
http://www.avolkswagenpart.com/ (cool merchandise and stuff)
http://www.autosportvolkswagenparts.com/ (kind of like the other OEM sites)
http://www.edgeracing.com/ (have lots of wheels to pick from)
http://www.europeanplates.com (have some pretty sweet euro license plates)
http://www.tires-n-parts.com (obviously tires and wheels)
http://drivergear.vw.com/ (suit yourself up in some gear from VW)
http://www.eurowerks.net/ (euro license plates)
http://www.shgraphics.com/ (euro license plates)
http://www.germanplates.com (euro license plates)
Quote, originally posted by bikerbill2021 » I figured since everyone has that oh so frighting "alarm going off when reconnecting the battery" id figured id let people now how i fixed this.
Its not the best way, but it works
What i did was:
Bought 2 male and female connectors
Went home and pulled up the raintray
Found the two wires that run to the alarm horn, which sits conviently behind the wiper unit
Snipped the wires
Put the corresponding male and female connectors on each wire
labled one of the connecters so i wouldnt mix them up
plug them together and there you go!
Now when you go unplug your battery, you can just pull up the raintray and unplug the connectors. when you go to reconnect it, all you get is the flashing lights. utter ambience
It may be easier to use a kill switch style hidden in the rain tray or bay out of site, this is what i will be doing, then you can just flick the switch [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Quote, originally posted by McKLaSiK » or you can just put your key in the drivers side door while reconnecting the battery. it'll just honk once.
Quote, originally posted by sixblade » Well I have been having an issue with trying to get my damn spedo to work properly without having to bang that crap out of it. So I decided to take apart the gauge cluster (how-to on page 11 of diy mk3 thread).
Only do this if you have checked to make sure you have good connections all over the board no loose capacitors or anything like that.
DISCLAIMER: Only do this if you are confident in your skills of taking little things apart. I am not responsible for you being a retard and messing something else up
Ok now that, that is out of the way my how-to to fix the spedo.
Once you take of your needles extremely carefully following the directions exactly and take off the 8 screws on the back and pop off the silver faced gauges you will be looking at the top of a motor assembly that moves your needles.
On the top you will see a large plastic piece on top of the motor.
Spread the little metal tabs out on both side and TAKE OFF THE TOP PART OF THE PLASTIC PIECE ONLY!! do this carefully or you may have stuff flying out of it.
Inside you will see 3 gears 2 plastic and one metal.
Take off the center gear and then pull off the metal one.
On the underside of this gear you will see a coil of metal thats only reason is to smooth out the movement of the needles.
Rip that ****e off.
Put the metal gear back in its spot and like the center gear back up so that when you spin the middle gear everything moves in unison.
Once you do that, put the motor assembly back togeather.
Reassemble the cluster to the point that you only have the board, the gauges(no needles yet), and the white piece of plastic on the back of it.
Go out to your car and hook everything up and turn the ignition on, but do not turn the car on, and place the needles in the proper posistion, turn the key off and go back inside and reassemble the rest of the cluster and enjoy!!!
please be very careful..and this will also save everyone a few bucks
Quote, originally posted by shorty53186 » 02A Main Shaft Replacement DIY
To get to this point follow the steps for the LSD install.
Fist takes you Blow torch and heat up 4th gear.
Place your 6inch gear puller under 4th gear and remove 4th gear, the bearing and the metal sleeve all at once.
Remove the cir clip holding on 3rd gear.
Remove 3rd gear by hand.
When putting 4th gear bearing back on I found that a 32mm Socket was perfect for hammering it back on the shaft.
And thats it.
The transmission is ready to go back together
Be sure to use an Anaerobic gasket sealer to seal the 2 halfs and the shifter.
Permetex make a product called 5817.
***Missing many pictures but thought still worthy of the FAQ. If anybody has updated pics please let us know***
Quote, originally posted by shorty53186 » I am in no way responsible for your transmissions or mistakes you may make when disassembling or reassembling your transmission. However feel fee to contact me with questions.
Also, How do I get this in the Official DIY for the MK3 Form?
I also do not discuss the preload on the differential because mine did not need adjustment.
I have found this to be true for many of the 02A transmissions.
Tools Needed
M8 Internal Socket (Same one used to remove Half Shafts)
10mm Socket (Recommended ½ inch)
13mm Socket (Recommended ½ inch)
Set of metric sockets would be best incase I forgot some.
Medium Extension for socket
T60 Star Socket (6 point)
T45 Star Socket (6 Point)
Medium to Large Flat Head Screw Driver
6inch Gear Puller
Blow Torch
Pneumatic ½ are gun Highly Recommended But not necessary
2 12inch 2x4 blocks of wood
5/16th Drill Bit
3/8th Drill Bit
A very Powerful Pneumatic air Hammer or SawZaw
Small Grinding wheel
Large Punch
Small Punch
Brass Drift or a dowel of wood.
Needle Nose pliers
32mm Socket (or something the same Diameter)
Lots of Plastic Baggies (Ziplock is Best)
Drain the Fluid
Remove both output flanges before removing the tranny from the car. (do this by inserting one of the 13mm bolds from the differential case into the hold on the flange and screwing it in.)
Remove the Transmission form the Car
Lay the Transmission Flat so you can see in the Bell Housing
Remove the Eight 13mm Bolts and the Four Nuts
Stand The Transmission back up right and remove the 6 Bolts holding on the 5th gear Cover
Take a screw driver and pry the fifth gear cover off.
Remove the T45 Bolt that connects the Shifter from inside the case to the linkage in the 5th gear cover (left side of Picture)
Remove the two M8 Internal Socket Bolts
Lift Away 5th Gear Shift Linkage
Remove the two T60 Bolts Located at the top of each gear cluster
Ok Hear is where you really need good gear Puller. A 4inch puller will work I think. (I used a 6 inch puller later). Anyways place the gear pull not where I have it in the picture but at the Green Arrow.
Be sure that the gear puller is not pushing into the threaded slot that the T60 bolt came out of.
It also helps to heat the gear with a blow torch. However there is a plastic roller bearing inside the gear that can potentially melt.
After pulling away 5th gear from the main shaft remove the other gear. (mine came off by hand.)
Remove the two bolts that hold on the shifter, then whack it with a piece of wood right where it seals with the case in order to brake the seal.
From there just pull it out.
Do the same thing with the VW cover on the other side.
Remove the Four Shifter Pivot rods (2 on top, and 2 on bottom) They are all held in by T45 bolts.
There are two T45 bolts that hold in the reverse linkage one inside the 5th gear case
And the other between the two shifter pivot rods on the bottom of the case
Remove all the 13mm bold from around the differential housing
Lift Away the case
Lift away the shift linkage.
Remove the 1 bolt from the reverse linkage then lift away.
Lift away the Main Shaft
Lift Away the secondary shaft (the only will all the big gears)
Lift away the differential
At this point you want to inspect everything for flaws.
For example my Main shaft first gear with badly chipped. (I was getting a clicking in first gear)
And my right output flange had weird wear marks. (I ground that away completely)
Now on to the ring gear removal so it can be installed on the new differential.
First Start by drilling a 5/16th hold in the un-dimpled side going about 3/4ths of the way down. (you can drill it from the other side but then you need to drill all the way through.
Make sure you use lots of lube. WD40 words or just some old miter oil works also.
Also if you know how to sharpen dill bits you will be in better shape.
From a 5/16th bit, move up to a 3/8th bit.
After drilling the rivets, the heats need to be broken off.
This can be done by either Using a very powerful Pneumatic hammer
Or by Using a SawZaw (the method I used)
After all the heads are removed grind them flat with the diff.
Then take your punch and hammer out the rivets
From there take a brass drift or a wood and punch out the differential from the ring gear.
I placed the edge of the ring gear of 2 pieces of wood so that only the gear was supported but not the differential.
Make sure you mark how the ring gear goes on the differential because the inner lip on the ring gear is off set. (Its deeper on one side then the other).
From there it is bolted onto the LSD and then is read to go back in the tranny.
Main Shaft Replacement
Fist takes you Blow torch and heat up 4th gear.
Place your 6inch gear puller under 4th gear and remove 4th gear, the bearing and the metal sleeve all at once.
Remove the cir clip holding on 3rd gear.
Remove 3rd gear by hand.
When putting 4th gear bearing back on I found that a 32mm Socket was perfect for hammering it back on the shaft.
And thats it.
The transmission is ready to go back together
Be sure to use an Anaerobic gasket sealer to seal the 2 halfs and the shifter.
Permetex make a product called 5817.
Quote, originally posted by Cybersombosis » DIY switchblade key.
Quote, originally posted by yeayeayea » DIY Climate Control Bulb replacement.
First, here is the bulbs i used to do this. I got them from advanced autoparts for less than three dollars.
Ok, The only tools you will need are a phillips head screwdriver and a straight slot screwdriver.
First: Gently pry around the edge of the plate surrounding the climate control knobs. I used the straight slot screwdriver for this. Also you need to remove the ash tray.
Second: Remove the 4 phillips head screws that are behind the cover in the four corners of the control knob cluster.
Remove the 2 phillips head screws that are in the ash tray compartment.
Third: Pull the button cluster out of the way.
Tilt the cluster down as seen in the picture, then pull the top right corner out and work the cluster out of the dash. The bulb is hidden under the white piece in the center.
4th: The bulb is inside the white cover. the cover is held in by two clips on top and one clip on the bottom. it was pretty straight forward to remove, i just pulled on it. Unclip the harness from the white piece.
5th: The green piece around the bulb has two clips that are visible from behind. I used a key to unclip the green piece, exposing the bulb.
6th: Remove the old bulb, throw away. Install new bulb and test before reassembly.
7th: Reinstall in reverse order. I also took the time to remove the tape behind the words
Air Condition on the control cover plate. just a neat little change. Unclip the clear ring around the fan speed opening and pull the tape off.
Enjoy your functioning climate control lights.
After further investigation, and a recommendation by a fellow member, it seems you can simply remove the center control knob and see the bulb. then using some needle nose pliers with tape around the tips, you can pull the bulb out and reinsert it without disassembling the dash. however, it is hard to get the knobs off and you run the risk of breaking them.


text:
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subset: commoncrawl


text:
Below is text from a MSN article:
By Abby Ellin of MSN money (edited)
Faiths usually offer parents very clear direction on child-rearing. Premarital sex, for instance? That's pretty much a no-no, no matter what deity you worship. Dietary rules can also be pretty straightforward — no pork for Muslims and Jews, no beef for Hindus.
But when it comes to money, the picture is cloudier. What does the Bible actually say about money? Does God want us to own a fleet of yachts? Or does he think suffering and hardship is noble? Does God want your kid to be rich?
Happily, the consensus among most religious leaders seems to be that the Almighty does not want you to live off food stamps and is quite happy for you to drive a Porsche. But Scriptures say that a portion of your earnings should be returned through gifts to charity and offerings to the church — what some denominations call tithing.
Cantor Erik L. Contzius, of Temple Israel in New Rochelle, N.Y., is trying to instill these lessons in his 6-year-old son. Whenever the boy goes to Hebrew school, Contzius hands him a dollar to put in the tzedakah box for charity. Thou shalt not hoard your money
"If we teach it at a very young age to give, hopefully it will stick," Contzius says.
Carolyn Castleberry, a writer in Virginia Beach, Va., talks about this idea in her series of financial-empowerment books for women, based on Biblical principles.
"Proverbs 31 has been held up as a standard," says Castleberry, a mother of two who also writes a newsletter called "The Proverbs 31 Investor." The Old Testament passage — which describes a virtuous woman as having a price "above rubies" — is "about a woman who is a businessperson, a wife, she has a family, but she became an investor," Castleberry explains. What the Bible teaches
"She knew how to create passive income, she was a real-estate investor — so she was providing for her family and also for generations, so she's a role model."
According to Castleberry, the Bible addresses the topic of money more than any other issue — more than 2,000 passages discuss it. The No. 1 rule? "To tithe or give back," she says, quoting Malachi 3:10: "Bring to me the first of your possessions and I'll open up the skies of heaven."
The Bible also admonishes us to be good stewards of money (although here Christianity and Judaism differ from Islam, which forbids interest accrual).
A parable from Matthew discusses a boss who gave his three employees a certain amount of money.


text:
WTO confirms EU seal trade ban
By Benjamin Fox
The EU's four-year-old ban on seal fur will remain in place after the World Trade Organisation (WTO) rejected an appeal by Canada and Norway thus setting a precedent that animal welfare can trump the right to trade.
In its landmark ruling on Thursday (22 May), the Geneva-based trade organisation said that its appellate body had "upheld the panel's finding that the EU Seal Regime is 'necessary to protect public morals'".
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The decision by the WTO's appellate body, which is final, found that complaints by Norway and Canada that their seal trade was being affected were outweighed by the EU's objective of protecting seal welfare through the ban.
The seal fur ban became an unlikely issue during the 2009 European elections following a sustained lobbying effort by MEPs and animal welfare charities.
Thousands of seal pups are killed during the hunting season, often being shot and then clubbed to death. Seal skins and fur are used for making luxury clothing.
"IFAW applauds the WTO for reiterating the importance of public morality in international trade, and the European Union for taking this principled stand against the inhumane slaughter of seals," said IFAW EU Regional Director Sonja Van Tichelen.
"The ban is backed by the most rigorous scientific and socio-economic examination of commercial seal hunts around the world ever conducted," she added.
However, the EU will be forced to re-write its rules exempting Inuit communities from the ban, after the WTO ruled that the exemption discriminated against commercial fishers in Canada and Norway.
In a statement, the European Commission said that it would "review the findings on these exceptions to the ban and consider options for implementation".
"Overall, the Commission welcomes today's ruling as it upholds the ban imposed in reaction to genuine concerns of EU citizens."


text:
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text:
"Some people come into our lives & leave footprints on our hearts. Others come into our lives & make us wanna leave footprints on their face."
Related quotes
"Until you heal your past, your life patterns and relationships will continue to be the same, it's just the faces that change."
"Success is a Journey: so, don't forget to pack your COURAGE: to stand up, after facing obstacle after obstacle. HOPE: for a better day, after coming face to face with the storm. and FAITH: to keep those dreams alive, when all you see, is the mist and the haze..."
"Hurried and worried until we're buried, and there's no curtain call, Lifes a very funny proposition after all"
"When it comes to my life I have always been an optimist. My door is always open, and My pants are always down."


text:
TAG | Chris Biro
Chris Biro on Parrot Free Flight
3 Comments | Posted by Jon Perry in Bird Blog, Free Flight (Parrots)
In this video series on free flight, parrot trainer Chris Biro explains the basics of outdoor flight along with the importance of flight for parrot health.
Chris Biro has trained well over a dozen birds for outdoor flight and has presented them at state fairs and in online videos such as these shown here
Free Flying your parrot outside
5 Comments | Posted by Jon Perry in Bird Blog, Free Flight (Parrots)
I have been flying my parrot Apollo out doors for over 2 years now. It works because Apollo is strongly bonded to me and the small group of friends who fly him with me. If it weren't for this, he would probably fly away and never come back.
I feel that Free Flying your parrot outdoors is the ultimate experience a bird keeper can have. It's amazing to watch my little parrot use his incredible natural talents. That said, before you fly your parrot, you need to know the dangers.
Flying your bird outside is risky for the following reasons:
- Bird could easily fly away if he doesn't like you or he could accidentally get lost while exploring.
- Bird could get attacked by a hawk (since captive birds are usually weak fliers, they are prime targets for hawks who seem to pick up on animals with strange flying patterns)
- Bird could get attacked by other birds (seagulls, crows and so on)
- Bird could get hit by a car
- Attacked by a dog or cat
- Get sick from eating or drinking something poisonous or contaminated by another wild bird
- The bird could attack a pedestrian and get you sued
Those are just seven potential problems but there are many more. In the wild, your parrot would have belonged to a flock of other birds who would warn him of danger and also teach him how to deal with certain obstacles and predators. In captivity, they have been severed from this group and all they have is you and their basic instincts to keep them safe. To make matters worse, their instincts are only meant to tell them how to survive in their native habitat. They don't do so well in American cities where most people usually try to fly them.
Flying indoors instead
You may consider indoor flight as a respectable alternative to free flight. This takes out the risk but still allows your bird to get his exercise and be happy. It's not quite as fun of course and it can be difficult to find a good location but it is much better for most bird owners due to the high risk of outdoor flight. You do still have risks though, windows are dangerous because birds usually can't see glass. Ceiling fans, hot stoves, open toilettes and other things can also be a danger.
Places to fly indoors (if you can get permission)
- In your own home if you have a room that's big enough (vaulted ceilings are a plus)
- YMCA basketball gym
- Church gym
- Home made aviary in your own backyard
- Abandoned warehouse
How to learn more about Free Flight
Before you take your bird outside, make sure he (or she) is properly trained. I'm not an expert. I've only trained one bird. To learn about training your bird for outdoor flight, visit the website of flight expert, Chris Biro by going here: www.wingsatliberty.com
Chris has trained dozens of birds for free flight and has worked with several different species. His website is full of articles, videos, and interviews that will really help you understand the basics and then some. In my opinion he gets over technical at times but it's important to be precise when dealing with the safety of your bird.
Join the free flight yahoo group for discussion on free flight. You can ask questions and share your thoughts in the group. The people of the group are serious about parrots and won't hesitate to pick argue with you if they don't like what you say. You really should join the group if you're going to fly outdoors but make sure you wear a thick skin when posting: Free Flight Yahoo Group
Good luck.


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"New" synagogue opens old wounds in Jerusalem
By Alastair Macdonald
JERUSALEM (Reuters) - A synagogue newly reopened in Jerusalem's Old City has worried Arab neighbors and Palestinian leaders who accuse Israel of using its political power to push them out and shift the city's religious balance toward the Jews.
Israelis say the work in the Muslim Quarter merely restored a building wrecked during 19 years of Arab control before Israel captured the Old City in 1967. But Palestinians complain they live under an unequal rule, by which homes and mosques in areas taken by Israel in the war of 1948 remain out of Arabs' reach.
Sixty years on, Jerusalem, where a new mayor will be elected next week, still lies at the heart of stalled efforts to broker a peace settlement. Nowhere are conflicts over land as up-close and personal as in the narrow lanes inside its ancient walls.
And nowhere do emotions run higher than on the seam of the Muslim and Jewish Quarters, where heavily armed Israeli police eye jostling crowds streaming to al-Aqsa mosque or the Western Wall, a remnant of the Jewish Temple destroyed 2,000 years ago.
"They want to push us out," said Alaa Zorba, a Muslim who runs a nearby grocery with his father, as he pointed from his window home to the rebuilt synagogue just across the alley.
"But we won't kneel," added Zorba. "We'd rather die."
He said he had been threatened by some Jews in the area and warned by Israeli police not to air his grievances in the media.
Just metres (yards) away, inside Ohel Yitzhak or Isaac's Tent which reopened last month, worshippers have a view through high, arched windows of Zorba's stone house -- and of that of a relative who believes a demolition order served on his home is part of a Jewish plan to take more land for the synagogue. Continued...


text: CANBERRA, Australia, Feb. 21, 2013 /PRNewswire/ -- Northrop Grumman Corporation (NYSE: NOC) will highlight a range of its key capabilities and programmes at the Australian International Air Show, including unmanned aircraft systems; intelligence, surveillance and reconnaissance (ISR); radars and sensor systems; and infrared countermeasures. (Logo: http://photos.prnewswire.com/prnh/20121024/LA98563LOGO) The air show takes place at Avalon Airport, Geelong, Australia, Feb. 26-March 3. Northrop Grumman's exhibit in the U.S. pavilion is at 3C 12 in Hall C and the company's business centre is located on the flight line at N11. In addition, a full-scale Triton unmanned aircraft system (UAS) model can be seen in the outside display area at EN-E3. "Northrop Grumman is committed to providing affordable capabilities in C4ISR, unmanned systems, cybersecurity and logistics that will allow the Australian Defence Force to carry out vital operations in country and overseas," said David Perry, corporate vice president and chief global business development officer, Northrop Grumman. "We have a well-established presence in Australia, and continue to build broad partnerships with industry and educational institutions to help us grow a strong defence and security enterprise. The Australian International Air Show provides us with an excellent opportunity to showcase the breadth of our capabilities and our industry leadership." Northrop Grumman's airborne surveillance capability will be highlighted with models of the Triton UAS and Fire Scout unmanned helicopter display. "Triton is an ideal high-altitude unmanned aircraft system for Australia. The system can fly missions for 24 hours at altitudes of more than 10 miles, allowing the system to cover vast areas of ocean and coastal regions. It is also an ideal national security asset, capable of performing a wide array of civilian roles, such as responding to natural disasters, bushfires, environmental monitoring and drug interdiction in addition to its considerable military capabilities," said Perry. Triton is a derivative of the combat-proven Global Hawk unmanned aircraft for maritime surveillance. Its unique suite of sensors allows the multimission ISR system to provide a continuous on-station presence for some of the most demanding surveillance missions. The system's radar, known as the Multi-Function Active Sensor, allows the Triton to monitor a full 360-degree field of view – spotlighting a geographic area of interest for longer periods to increase the system's capability to detect smaller targets.


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Hi guys, iv'e finally gotten around to putting some paint on my ASOK FP Budget lid.
Originally i wanted to use the cc layer as base layer but decided not to after some hairline cracks appeared after i cut out the visor.
Here's a quick shot of the bucket with layer of primer and all the parts fitted.
Anyway so far i have put down a layer of silver and then the dark grey layer.
This is my first attempt at using a airbrush and the grey humbrol color gave me bit of trouble,
because the tin's i ordered was apparently from the 1990's and before thinning it, it had the consistency of tar.
For references i had used Rafalfett's templates for the general location of the scratches but the shapes is done freehanded.


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|Topic Review (Newest First)
howdy there,
people should realize/remember that there are three lengths of the th350 in 2wd form
700r4 is the same as a th350 with 9" tail
found in some vans, some full size cars and wagons, and all full size trucks
ppl dont seem to understand this
there is more than one th350
plus there is also a lockup converter variant of the th350, it is call teh TH350-C
i have one in the basement original to a '81 C-10 pickup 350 olds diesel i parted and junked. 10 bolt bellhousing to fit all GM 90 patterns
you need to measure the tailshaft housing length to know what trans model will fit in place of it
but since i see it is a camaro i know it is the 6" tail length and a 700r4 is 3" longer than these, so you need a 2004r in which is 4 speed auto and will fit right in place of the th350 other than crossmember location
however, if you have an old arc welder you couls simply cut off 3" of the driveshaft and use a 700r4
i am doing the same thing because i am swapping from 9" tail th350 in my 78 c-10 pickup over to a 1987 3L80HD trans(th400 body with 27 spline output shaft and it is 3" longer than a 9" th350 trans)
very easy to cut and re-weld a driveshaft
did the same thing for my 2wd s-10 pickup not too long ago, i replaced the original two piece shaft with an 89 full size van single piece shaft, had to cut 1.5" from it to fit the s-10
also it is hassle, not hastle
good luck
The 2004R and 700R4 cannot support the same torque stock to stock as a TH350, although both can be rebuilt with the right parts of course to handle a lot more. At stock levels I do believe the 2004R will take more of a beating than the 700R4 as it was the O/D tranny put behind most turbocharged Buicks. But there is a larger aftermarket for the 700R4.
Next month I'm actually going to dive into a transmission project myself. Swapping out a TH-350 and putting in a 700R4 from a 92 S10 into a '76 Blazer. Other than rebuilding the 700R4 with stronger internals not designed for a V6 from what I've gathered so far, I've got to: relocate the crossmember, get a new driveshift with correct length or cut the current one down to size and then get the whole TV Cable setup correctly. Of which I've heard is a real pain in the butt to find the right carb adapter and get it adjusted correctly otherwise it will burn out the transmission in no time.
|How about the strength, can it support as much torque as a TH350?
It's my understanding that a TH200-4R is the same length, and uses the same spline yoke on the driveshaft, so the only modification needed to mount it is to move the trans crossmember rearward.
I'm sure someone will correct me if that's not correct.
I put a TH200-4R in place of a Powerglide in my '64 El Camino, and used the original drivehaft. It's great with a 3.70 rear gear.
1980 camaro z28 with a TH350.. swap tranny??
Car is 1980 camaro z28 with a TH350 stock (engine is 383 stroker). I want to swap out this tranny for an automatic overdrive transmission since the rear end gears are 3.52:1 and it is horrible on the highway. Question is what 4 speed O/D tranny is the easiest to swap out the TH350 for?? What modification/custimization is needed to do this?? The TH350 is in excellent shape with only 55,000 miles on it but I really do need that O/D gear for the highway. Also, what ratio is the O/D gear on the tranny (whichever tranny you suggest). If it isn't that much of a hastle and almost a direct bolt-in then I sha'll attempt it.
Thanks for any help here
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text:
a place for zinesters - writers and readers
A little mini personal zine done as an experiment to make use of vintage paper ephemera I'd collected via swapping on Swap-Bot!
All kinds of vintage paper goodies eg. old childrens' book illustrations, magazine clippings, sewing patterns!
12 pages, with my personal self revelations.
Views: 11
Zines by hamsterguppies
Location: singapore


text:
Click on a thumbnail to go to Google Books.
Engineman (1994)
by Eric Brown
No current Talk conversations about this book.
The Solaris (2010) edition of this book is a reworking of the original material. It credits the original short stories that the novel was "fixed-up" from, which the 1994 Pan edition does not.
Engineman consists of a novel published for the first time in 1994, reprinted with eight short stories set in the same universe and originally published between 1987 and 1991. The novel and the short stories are full of interesting ideas: the ways different people deal with the experience of addiction; the possibility of a global-warming type threat to the afterlife; the question of whether any level of technology can confirm or disprove the experience of spiritual transcendence. Plus: aliens; two kinds of faster-than-light travel; a neurological condition in which sensory input to the brain is time-lagged; political conspiracy; a bit of romance. And yet, the writing falls short of the world's potential. Part of that is a very odd plotting choice the author makes: no sooner does he set up a mystery (he hints that a character's personality is shaped by a past tragedy; one character warns another that they may be in danger), than he promptly dispels it (you experience the tragedy in a flashback; the assassin arrives a page or two later). There's no sustained tension. At their best, Brown's ideas reminded me of Cordwainer Smith (for example, the social impact of replacing one kind of faster than light travel with another kind) and David Brin (for the sense of possibility and scale of the human universe).
References to this work on external resources.
Wikipedia in English
No descriptions found.
A thrilling action adventure from the author of 'Helix' and 'Kethani', 'Engineman' also includes nine related stories set in the Engineman universe, including 'The Time-Lapsed Man'.
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December 2010: Lowest Arctic Sea Ice Extent in Satellite Record
The disinformers like to focus on where it's cold, which happens to be where most of the people of, but where it's hot looks to be more consequential, given the impacts of melting ice in both the Arctic and Greenland.
That's part of a piece on Climate Progress regarding the latest news concerning sea ice extent and temperature from leading climate change blogger Joe Romm. Here's more:
The National Snow and Ice Data Center has released its December report on Arctic sea ice. The human-driven decline continues, spurred by a strong negative phase of the Arctic Oscillation, which leads to this regional air temperature anomaly:
Keep up to date with all the most interesting green news on the planet by subscribing to our (free) Planetsave newsletter.


text:
swimsuitsforall was founded to offer something entirely new in the world of plus size swimwear--a fun shopping experience. We know that often curvaceous women dread the thought of shopping for a swimsuit because it's usually so difficult to find suits that fit well but are still fashionable. Our belief that no woman should have to compromise fashion for fit has led us to put together the best selection of one piece swimwear anywhere, and our Wow Factor Swimwear collection is the perfect place for you to find styles that are sure to attract attention and have you feeling gorgeous.
The name of the Wow Factor Swimwear collection says it all--the one piece swimwear looks that are waiting to be discovered in this range are capable of wowing everyone who sees them. The designs in this collection prove that plus size swimwear can be flirty, feminine and downright sexy.
Each style in the Wow Factor Swimwear collection is cut to provide the support and control needed to help you look your best in your bathing suit. Many of the suits feature underwires, metal lifts that rest under the breasts to keep the bust line lifted just like your favorite bras. To tone your tummy, select a suit with power mesh panels, which flatten the midsection similarly to a shaper. All-over prints can also make you appear slenderer in one piece swimwear.
As you compare the plus size swimwear styles in the Wow Factor Swimwear, you'll find a number of necklines available. Like a more classic twist on sexy? A scoop neck tank is the perfect silhouette to have you standing out while sticking to your traditional sense of style. Show a maximum amount of cleavage with a plunging V neckline complete with halter straps or break from the norm with a collar halter top or one of our other modern looks.
At swimsuitsforall, we strive to make selecting the right one piece swimwear styles as simple as possible. That's why we have a team of plus size swimwear experts waiting to answer your questions and provide you with all of the support you need to choose the best look for your figure and your tastes from our many Wow Factor Swimwear designs. One of our representatives can answer your questions about fit, make style suggestions or recommend the best cover ups to coordinate with your favorite suit. Give us a call at 1.888.241.SWIM to speak to a representative.


text:
Reviews // 1 Articles
The Best Non-Fiction of 2011
23 Feb 2012 // 4:00 PM
Books have a long shelf-life. A loved book may outlast its original owner by a generation – or more -- if well cared for. With that in mind, we recall our best loved books of 2011 here, well into 2012. Better late than never...
Meditations on the Actual and the Imagined: 'Puppet: An Essay on Uncanny Life'
2 Feb 2012 // 4:00 PM
A series of poetic meditations on "the madness of puppets", this brief but dense book fascinates as much as its uncanny subject matter.


text:
Lenwile AA Ardalt 6529 Black Nodder Type Figurine
- Sold for: Start Free Trial or Sign In to see what it's worth.
- Item Category: Ceramics
- Source: eBay
- Sold Date: Jul 08, 2007
- Channel: Auction House
You are bidding on a hand painted Lenwile China AA Ardalt Figurine. It is an african american clown nodder-type looking through legs. It is made in Japan and has the numbers 6529 stamped on the foot. It is in good condition.


text: as a side note most dont realize it but people are running pulled ak bullets in the 300 as well. sure they are .310" but no issues have been reported. Accuracy is a little looser then purpose bullets but these are dirt cheap. people are reporting 1" to 6" groups on unswaged ak bullets and 1-4" on swagged bullets.


text:
Allied Nationwide Security is a Southern California based security guard services company. We provide Unarmed and Armed security guard officers to large and small commercial, industrial and residential clients. No client is too large or too small for us. We guarantee our services.
We provide security guard services in Los Angeles county, Orange County, Riverside County, Ventura County and San Bernardino County. For a FREE QUOTE please click on this link or call us at our toll free number 1-800-955-8417. We offer services on a "trial basis." No long-term commitment is required.
To provide the highest level of service for our clients, Allied Nationwide Security requires its employees to undergo extensive background checks and a rigorous training program that typically exceeds the requirements mandated by California state laws.
Our security officers are trained to adapt to many different situations. With our diversified workforce, we can offer services such as bilingual security officers and personalities that will adapt to your business needs.
We work with our customers to create a customized security procedures program specifically for each location where we are entrusted with security operations. The plan is reviewed and approved by our clients prior to implementation. An ongoing review of the plan is done on a regular basis to ensure that our services always meet our client's needs and requirements.
Our proactive approach to security management allows us to respond to situations and events before they become problems. At Allied Nationwide Security, we believe that communication is the key to excellent service. We strive to maintain excellence, anything less is not acceptable for our clients or for us.
Allied Nationwide Security, Inc. is the leading provider of Security Guards in Los Angeles and Orange County.
Allied Nationwide Security's ultimate mission is to meet all clients' demands, tailor our services to each individual client needs and to employ the most ethical and responsible security officers in the industry.
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Allied Nationwide Security promises to deliver to its client's security officers that are:
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Call Allied Nationwide Security, Inc. for more information about Security Guards in Los Angeles or Orange County.
Allied Nationwide Security covers most of Southern California. Below you can view some of our top areas we cover:


text:
2005 jeep wrangler unlimited. Well i had clutch replaced twice and same crap is happening. I took it back to last guys that did it and said its not the clutch its the transmission. I give up, its makes this screatching noise now on a regular basis. The guy that did the clutch said that there was a lot of metal shavings all inside the transmission and now there is so much movement. I guess just wait for transmission to go and take it back under warranty. I just cant stand the noise and the longer i drive it the worse it is. Is this a similar problem.
Re: Annoyed
when does it make the noise? does it go away with the clutch pedal depressed? There was a tsb for a chirping noise that involved removing the slave cylinder and replacing the actuator rod with one that is slightly longer, this preloads the throw out bearing more and resolves the noise. IF this is the case the noise will go away if you take up the slack in the clutch pedal (just press it down an inch or 2) if the noise goes away this is your fix.
Re: Annoyed
Yeah it goes away when push pedal in a few inches, but now at times i can hear the noise all the time. Its like something is rubbing together. Its fine when first get out and drive it, but the more i drive it the worse it gets. It sucks cause i dont know how to work on it myself and damn jeep dealership just wants to rape me everytime i mention it. I dont think its the transmission but then again its a pain in the ass trying to put in reverse and sometimes going from 1st to 2nd it goes hard. I think its in reverse and go to go and a grinding she goes. I dont know what to do this seems to be the only issue i have but i hate the sound , sounds like a piece of junk. Anymore info would be greatly appreciated, thanks for the info already man.
Re: Annoyed
There is a link to the TSB here: Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » TSB - Squeal-Like Sound Due To Incorrect Pre-Load On Clutch Throw-Out Bearing
do you have the 6 speed nsg370 or the 5 speed AX-15 (I believe)?
The NSG370 is the same transmission used in the JK and it id known to have some internal issues, mainly a failing reverse gear syncro. The problem is it may be design that didn't take into account this driving habit but ultimately what I'm trying to say is it is a bad habit of the driver that causes the damage not exactly a design flaw. If you attempt to put the transmission in reverse before you are STOPPED you will munch up the reverse syncro, leading to popping out of reverse and difficulty engaging reverse.
Before doing anything, I would go in to a reputable shop that has great reviews, that works on jeeps and wranglers and pay them for their diagnosis. Cars are not cheap and finding the right shop that has qualified staff is also not easy and even they have bad days.
Re: Annoyed
Yeah its a 6 speed, but even when the last guy took it apart he said there was so much metal inside the transmission he said its going. I drive it fine i think the guy that had it before me beat the hell out of it and had it in water, cause all but one of the drain plugs are missing and carpet has been takin out. They saw me coming and i took it. the mechanic said there was so much mud underneath when took stuff apart. I was sold a piece of junk but its my fault, and now found out yesterday window is leaking water in when it rains. I thought jeeps wer supposed to be tough and lasting, i guess not. Ive had nothing but issues with mine. But its still under warranty, my worry is that i had clutch down somewhere else for half the price, they can and have denied fixing things ive heard. I will be pissed. The mechanic thats put clutch in said cant do anything bought it transmission is going.
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text:
Some Questions For S.E. Cupp To Ask Glenn Beck On CNN
Blog ››› ››› BEN DIMIERO
Tomorrow night, CNN will feature the odd spectacle of its employee S.E. Cupp interviewing Glenn Beck, her boss at The Blaze, where she also serves as a contributor.
According to an article on The Blaze promoting the interview, "It is likely the two will discuss Beck's latest book, 'Miracles and Massacres: True and Untold Stories of the Making of America,' the creation of TheBlaze and current events."
Considering Cupp's relationship with Beck, it's unlikely he's due for a primetime grilling on CNN. In the event she wants the interview to be more than an exercise in self-promotion, Media Matters came up with a handful of questions for Cupp to ask Beck:
- So my bosses here at CNN are allowing me to interview you about your media company, which I also work for and which is actively competing with CNN. How is this interview even happening?
- You bristle at being labeled a "conspiracy theorist" and have tried to distance yourself from people like Alex Jones while positioning The Blaze as a serious news outlet devoted to finding truth. Yet this year you have claimed there's a "very good chance" a May shooting at a Houston airport could have been a "setup" like "the burning of the Reichstag." You also spun a convoluted theory about how the government was covering up Saudi Arabia's supposed involvement in the Boston Marathon bombings. Do you see any conflict between positioning The Blaze as a serious news venture and your tendency to run with stories that would get a reporter laughed out of a traditional news outlet like, say, CNN?
- In recent years you've mostly moved away from the radio shock jock shtick that first made you famous towards your current incarnation as a self-fashioned media mogul/self-help guru/world-important historical figure. Do you regret any of the things you did during your time as a relatively obscure radio host -- like the time you reportedly called the wife of a rival to ridicule her on-air for her recent miscarriage?
- Since you've softened your position on gay marriage, why do you still surround yourself with and promote a variety of vociferous anti-gay bigots like Pastor Ken Hutcherson -- who hosts a Blaze show -- and Pastor David Barton, a man you recently petitioned to run for Senate?
- Do you worry that your own history of sexist comments -- often towards progressive women -- undercuts your ability to express outrage when conservative women are unfairly targeted? Like the time you called Hillary Clinton a "stereotypical bitch" on your radio show, which you later clarified, saying "probably a better word was nag." Or when you mock-vomited into a trash can after discussing Meghan McCain's involvement in a skin cancer PSA in which she bared her shoulders?
- Do you worry that your constant warnings of impending catastrophic global disaster -- "Hindenburg omens," "perfect storms," "Archduke Ferdinand moments," and the End Times, to name a few -- could cause you to lose credibility with your followers when your predictions don't pan out? Do you ever worry about over-promising your audience about the historical importance of your yearly events, which you have labeled "planet course-altering" historical turning points that could represent fulfillments of biblical prophecy?
- What's the status of "Independence, USA," the self-sufficient libertarian city/theme park hybrid you unveiled in January?
According to a tweet from Cupp, her CNN interview with Beck has been rescheduled due to the ice storm in Texas.
- Posted In
- Ethics
- Network/Outlet
- Person
- Glenn Beck, S.E. Cupp
- Show/Publication
- The Blaze
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text:
Home > Eyeglasses > Boss > BOSS 0763 (QHU)
BOSS 0763 is available in 4 additional attractive styles
New Releases
Size and availability
Free outbound and return shipping
30-day money-back guarantee
Low prices
Free outbound and return shipping
30-day money-back guarantee
Low prices
BOSS 0763/QHU Eyewear
With these designer eyeglasses, you are always perfectly dressed. The BOSS 0763 is available in the Edel-Optics online shop in other styles from Boss collections 2015 and 2016.
The frame is specially designed for men. Sporting clear lines, New School Cool meets traditional quality. Eyewear is in. Full rim is extremely popular, because you feel that you get more eyeglass for your money. It is not just about their resilience, but also about the visibility of material and design, which are of the highest quality. Rectangular models are particularly suitable for round and oval faces. The rectangular shape also builds a bridge to corners and edges from an image aspect. Plastic is a very lightweight and flexible material. This ensures a long life and a high level of comfort. Brown is the perfect alternative for those who find black too high in contrast. Brown flatters the face unobtrusively.
With the help of our digital dispensing optician, your prescription lenses can be configured according to your own requirements. Anti-reflective and cleaning coatings, antistatic and lotus effect are included as standard for plastic lenses.
Even if this Boss is presently not in stock, it is worth ordering now, because the current price can't be beaten. And because Edel-Optics is a paradise for bargain hunters, you can get this top model at an incredibly low price. What is labelled as "in the sale" at other online shops, is for us "all-day-everyday" prices.
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text:
June 15, 2014
CASTAIC LAKE, Calif. -- Freshman David Heron backed up his fifth-place finish in the 10K by taking fifth in the 5K on Sunday to end the USA Open Water National Championships.
Heron finished the distance race in 55 minutes, 38.339 seconds.
It was a big weekend for the Vol in his second open water competition since coming back from a broken wrist injury suffered in December. He was a top-10 finisher at the Crippen Cup in April.
By placing in the top six, he will be named to the USA Swimming National Team.


text:
I just received thermage two days ago. Now I'm googling side effects and I'm really scared. So far my skin is the same just feels alil tight and dry. If I had known the side effects I wouldn't even have tried it. I wondering how soon I would see negative results? At this point I hope just hope nothing happens. I don't care if I wasted my money I'm scared of fat loss and scars. I feel awful for all these people who have had horrible reactions.
31, Just Got Thermage Nervous - Cherry Hill, NJ
I just received thermage two days ago. Now I'm...
Was this review helpful? {{ voteCountOthers + ' other' + (voteCountOthers == 1 ? '' : 's') }} found this helpful


text:
Open House – Coming Soon
Click here for floor plans and pricing: Little island Cottages – Brochure 0215
See video on Little Island Cottage here: http://vimeo.com/82912794
Nestled along the shores of Lowell Cove in the beautiful town of Harpswell, Maine, Little Island Cottages are the quintessential Maine coast experience. Five lovely cottages built by mainelifehomes on a private island – literally on the waters edge. Each cottage has a unique character and design, fitting to the fishing village setting of Lowell Cove. Three of the units (Wharf Cottages 3, 4 & 5) are built on a newly constructed wharf suspended above Lowell Cove. Each of the units have large private decks with expansive outdoor living areas, providing a true 'ship-like' experience. Unit four, the one story middle unit, also boasts a fabulous roof top deck for entertaining, sunbathing and wildlife watching. Each of these three units are designed for open living with two bedrooms and two full baths. The two story units (3&5) also offer additional sleeping lofts on the second level above the guest bedrooms.
Units 1&2 rest on the opposite side of the island in the fully remodeled historic home that was originally built in the 1940's. These two units have views from virtually every window and are a bit larger, offering three bedrooms and two and a half baths. Each also has their own private outdoor entertaining areas a just few feet from the waters edge.
Common amenities include a dock, ramp and float for swimming and 'any tide' access to Lowell Cove deep water mooring field.
Little Island Cottages provide a truly unique coastal living experience along the coast of Maine – perfect for the boater, water enthusiast or anyone wanting to enjoy Maine oceanfront living. For more information and a private viewing of the property please contact email@example.com (207) 650-8767
Follow MLH on Facebook to view progress photos of Little Island Cottages
Unit sale prices from the mid $500's