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Complete top with frame removal page.
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Quote, originally posted by Nrcabby » switched power in an A1 or A2 for an aftermarket radio is the Black and Yellow wire going to the back of the defroster switch.
Do this if you want to see what a dashfire can do to your car.....
Quote, originally posted by type3cabrio » Do this if you want to see what a dashfire can do to your car.....
whoa there newbie. the HU only needs a signal from the ignition to let it know that its ok to turn on. theres only a tiny draw on that wire, the power is supplied from the main (constant) power. is there draw on your amp's remote wire? no. the ignition signal wire is the exact same thing. before you post, get things striaght.
thus, yes, it is perfectly ok to use the defrost switch as a signal to your HU. make sure you tap into that line properly to avoid shorting out anything. if you don't know what you're doing take it to a proper installation shop.
The Brown/Red wire coming off the back of the Ignition Switch is hot while the key is inserted. Makes a nice radio/amp turn on lead.
I have instructions for adding heat to the OUTER dash vents in the A/C-equipped cabbies at http://members.toast.net/mahoney/heaterbox.html
Text and sketches for an easy mod if/when you have the dash or the heaterbox out.
Modified by joelmahoney at 1:17 AM 6-4-2004
Useful link for decoding cabby vins.
Quote, originally posted by webrits » I recently de-coded my vin using this, and found out I had a Carat !!
Check it out
Black is back!
This is a complete guide on how to install blue LEDs in your clocks.
What we need:
8 3mm Bright Blue LEDs.
4 470Ohm Resistors 1/4Watt
Soldering Iron
Super Glue
A few loops of wire.
Soldering Boards
3mm Drill
I believe thats all.
So here we go!
Get the cluster out. I suppose you know how to do this...... http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif
In my case I was swapping the ugly German looking gauge overlays with white ones I created at home. You can skip this part if you don't intent to do it.
So, I took the cluster apart and remove the needles. Very easy. Make sure you note the direction the needle rests before you pull it out. To do that, lift the needle over the pin-stop and see where it stops. Normally it should be at 0kms/0miles. Our gauges start from 20kms and 10miles but if they had a 0 thats where it would rest.
Now get two butter knives and gently slip them under the base of the needle, one on each side of the shaft, then twist the knives so they "pop" the needle straight up off of the shaft.
Undo the 2 screws on each face and you should have this on your hand.
Turn the cluster over and undo the 4 nuts in order to get the temp gauge and gas gauge out.
Once they are out you can maybe change the mileage of the odometer. The gauge I bought had a different mileage (obviously), so I wanted to match it with the real mileage of the car.
So what I did is not very professional but worked like a dream!
Undo the 2 screws on the left of the photo and remove the white long gear. It is noted in the red circle.
Now take a small philips screwdriver and insert it between the long shaft noted with the red and the black odometer cylinders. Create a small gap just enough to turn the cylinders by hand to the desired mileage. When done just make sure the cylinders are in line and the number can be read with the gauge face on.
If you have a prinout already of the overlays thats fine. Just match them over the orignal face and cut carefully.... if you don't then you can either scan yours and edit them in photoshop or you can download a ready made one from the net and then edit it according to your needs.
Thats the one I downloaded and the edited.
Mine are VDO (89-92) style gauge, so its a little different than the Motometer (84-88).
Print them on good photo paper and stick on the original faces. Cut them arround and also make the holes for the odometer. Take your time and use a BRAND NEW exacto knife.
We now proceed to the BLUE LEDs installation.
We start from the digital clock.
Once you have this in front of you, Undo the two screws noted in the rec circles.
There another 2 screws under it. To undo them lift the circuit just enough to get a small screwdriver in angle to get them out. You cannot get the board out unless you remove the flexible board completely. They are attached together.
Once all 4 screws are out you can lift the white cover and have access to the LCD screen. The LCD screen in held in place by two rubber pieces. Under the LCD screen you will find this.
This is the green film that gives that nice green light during the night (obviously). Remove that.
Now under the film you should have a transparent white diffuser. There are many ways to make this shine blue but since LEDs are directional I decided to go this route.
I drilled 2 3mm holes on its side of it. I inserted my LEDs there.
Connect the two LEDs together in parallel. You might have to trim the white plastic on the base of the cluster. You will know what I am talking about when you go back to install it.
Solder one 470Omh resistor in series.....
Connect it to a 12V source and voila!
You have your blue clock!
Solder the two wires to the inside of the old bulb holder.
Don't worry about polarity. If its the other way arround you just turn the screw in bulb holder one more turn to reverse the polarity. http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif
I know you must be very excited by now. I was!
Now lets go on to the rest of the cluster.
Suppose that you have the gauges and the needles and everything back together..... http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif
On top of the cluster you can see white cover.
Carefully remove that and you should have a green film under it similar to the one you found under the digital clock earlier. Remove it completely and never think about it again!
There are many ways to make the light from the LEDs diffuse to have an even light inside the cluster. I couldn't find a proper white diffuser so I just though of diffusing my existing blue LEDs by sanding down a bit their tip. I few trials with the LED connected to a power source created my desired result.
I used these cheap soldering boards because they were very easy to shape.
These are the candidates....
The previous bulb covered with a blue cap!
http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif
3mm and 5mm Blue LEDs
Although 5mm were brighter, I chose to use the 3mm due to their smaller size.
So I used 6 LEDs soldered on the boards and cut to fit the top of the cluster.
Once you are satisfied with the angle and the light inside the cluster use some instant glue to hold the boards in place.
Solder all the LEDs in parallel and leave two wires long enough to connect to the outside of the cluster.
These two wires are going to be connected with a resistance in series to the original bulb holder shown here.
Do a couple of trial runs to see if all LEDs glow before you put the white cover back on.
If you are unsatisified with the glow of the LEDs you can put a couple more resitors in parallel to reduce the overall resistance. So far 4 470ohm resistances worked ok. The LEDs are still working after having them on one whole day.
In case you are wondering why put the resistors in parallel I can tell you that the 1/470+1/470=2/470. Invert that and you have a new resistor of 235Ohms. Just for your information.
If you did everyinth carefully and slowly you should have something similar to this....
I am very pleased with myself.
But since I am a perfectionist I found two problems on the completed project.
1st, the Needles are red and you cannot see them in the dark.
Problem solved with some Fluorescent Orange paint.
2nd, The tacho overlay looks "funny". Thats because the overlay is originally designed for a motometer gauge which is a bit different. No problem since I wanted to redesign the overlays in the first place.
I hope you were able to follow the guide. For any questions feel free to ask me.
Just thought of creating a small interesting guide for those of us who don't know or they are afraid to do it.
Here we go....
This is a photo of my dirty engine bay. As you can see a valve cover gasket is gone. Too many oil dripping from the cover on the cylinder head.
So, I decided to change the gasket. Then I though, hmmmm why not change the camshaft with a one more agressive? So I bought a Kent 270 degrees camshaft.
But since I am about to change the camshaft, why not buy an adjustable cam gear to get the most out of it? After a little searching in the vortex and every ebay site known to me I come up with this.
Techtonics adjustable +-8 degrees brand new, which I got from D.A.T. here on the vortex. Top guy, sent it immediately! Good deal!
I also bought a new gasket for 5 euros. its amazing something so cheap can get you into so many troubles.... http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif
First I removed the accelerator cable, ISV and vacuum hose going to the brake servo. Now I have more room to work.
With everything removed over the valve cover, its time to attack the 8 10mm nuts holding it. Make sure you remove it carefully and you don't drop anything inside the engine.
Under the valve cover you should have a plastic cover which helps lubricate the cam better. Remove this also.
Then you will have something like this in front of you.
Check the edges of the cylinder head where the gasket was. There is oil everywhere. This had to be cleaned carefully....
Loose the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the cam gear. Don't worry about the marks. Its very easy to adjust the timing later on.
Also get the 4 spark plugs out and place them on a clean piece of paper with the order you took them out.
Now its time to remove the old cam gear from the camshaft. Using a 19mm socket undo the bolt. You can put something in the holes of the cam gear to stop it from moving. Be carefully not to damage the surface of the cylinder.
Once the cam gear is out you can see this small part on the camshaft. Thats the woodruff key which acts as a guide for the cam gear.
Here is the slot that the woodruff key is supposed go. Make sure the curved side of the woodruff key is inside the camshaft slot.
And now the most important part of the uninstall!!!! The bearing caps.
Undo the nuts evenly an all 4 caps to avoid excessive pressure on one side of the cam only. When the caps are almost out, put them on a clean paper the order you removed them. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! if you mix them you could have problems after.
Here are mine. They go from left to right as excactly they are placed on the paper. I also kept the position of the nuts just to be safe.
The camshaft is removed. Now you see the tappets. In my engine are hydraulic and need no adjustment. If they were noisy before the install, now its a good chance to change them with new ones. They are not that expensive.
Yes, yes that black thing on top of the plastic cover is oil. Just to get an idea of how clean your engine is inside.... http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif
After a couple of hours of cleaning and ruining a few brushes everything is sparkling! http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif
Now, The installation of the new camshaft is the opposite of the uninstall obviously.... Make sure you use a lot of oil on the bearing caps and you install them in the order you removed them. Don't tight one cap at a time, but tight a little bit on each one evenly.
Torque the camgear at 80nm.
Before you tight them all the way try to turn the camshaft a few times to see if its hard or if its hitting anywhere. Don't worry about the pistons. The valves are nowhere near at hitting them because as we have said many many many times 8V engines are non interferent engines. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
According to the bentley the camshaft bearing cap nuts require 20nm of torque. Make sure you don't overtight them or you will have excessive wear and possibly damage your engine.
The gasket is also installed. Make sure the surface is clean before you install it.
Note how clean the plastic cover is now.... http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif
Once everything is nice and tight, double check on the caps and the gasket. Make sure the small orange rubber gasket is seated properly and the blue one also.
Install the valve cover and torque the nuts at 10nm.
Find the timing marks and make sure everything is put back together before you turn the key. Don't worry about wrong timing. If its wrong its just won't fire. http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif
Once the engine is running, keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins to bend in the new cam.
Now head for your nearest rolling road and tune your engine! Enjoy you extra 10hp!
Job well done!
Cruise Control Diagnostics
The cruise contol system consists of four major components.
Vacuum System (including pedal switches and pump)
This is the most common source of problems. For testing, you'll need a way to generate and hold vacuum in the lines. A good tool for this is a miniature Mity-Vac type of device.
Most common wiring problems in this circuit occur in the wires going from the steering column, down the turn signal arm, and into the switch. There is also wiring for the vacuum pump that may need to be checked.
Steering Column Switches
Not usually a problem, but wiring in steering column can be.
Control Unit
This piece rarely goes bad, so it should only be suspect when all other common problems have been ruled out. The easiest way to test it is to put in a known good unit.
First, check the obvious. Blown fuses? Check brake lights -- if both are blown, the system won't work. Also look for any disconnected vacuum lines in the engine compartment. If you can't find the problem, more in-depth troubleshooting is required.
Vacuum System
Disconnect the vaccuum line at the pump. With a Mity-Vac apply vaccuum to the system. The bellows should move the throttle and stay until you release vaccuum. Without a Mity-Vac, depress the rubber part of the reservoir and plug the other end of the hose. It should stay put. Repeat this test and depress the clutch pedal, and again with the brake pedal. The vaccuum should always release as soon as you touch the pedal. This will show whether you have a bad switch at the pedal, or a leaking line, or a bad bellows.
To see if the vaccuum pump is operating correctly, it is easiest to remove it. You can also do this from under the dash, but that involves pulling the glove box, a PITA. There should be a three prong electrical connector, a small hose that connects back to the pump and the main hose.
Put all vacuum hoses back in place and disconnect the electrical connector. Using your test leads, connect ground and +12v to the pump and solenoid switch. If you are looking at the connector on the pump like a "U", power is the right upright, the pump is the crossbar, and the valve is the left upright. Look on the electrical connector to make sure: blue/red is +12, brown/white is the pump ground and green/blue is the vent ground.
When you have power to the pump and valve, with the hoses connected; the throttle linkage should move. If you disconnect ground from the pump, the throttle should stay put. Disconnect ground from the vent and the throttle closes. If you get full travel on the throttle, then your pump draws sufficient vaccuum to operate. If all the above checks out, then you have isolated the cruise problem to the electrical side.
If your throttle doesn't move but your pump runs and you have no vacuum leaks, read on. If you have a Mity-Vac or a vaccuum gauge, you can get a numerical value for the pump. A year or so ago, my pump worked fine. This time around it drew 3 inches Hg. I disconnected the hoses, and connected a line to the air intake (the larger black port). I also connected a return line to the exhaust port (the stubby white one under the intake). I plugged the vent port with my finger, stuck the intake hose into some water, and applied power for 3-5 seconds. After this I ran it disconnected to flush the water out. After the flush I got 17 inches Hg out of the pump. I can't guarantee if there are any long term negative effects of this method, but it saved buying a new pump in the short term. (Six months later it still works)
There are two procedures here. The first is from the Bentley manual, the second is an alternative method. The advantage of the Bentley procedure is you may not need to remove the airbag to IDENTIFY the problem. The disadvantage is you will probably have to remove it to FIX the problem. This is in addition to squirming upside down in the footwell.
Bentley Method:
To test the electrics you need access to the control unit; it's up under the dash on the passenger side. You don't need to remove the dash, but you will need to pull the glove box and a trim panel or two. Push the A/C duct out of the way and remove the connector off the ECU. Contrary to Bentley, there are two: an eight pin connector, and a single ground connector. Pull the eight pin connector down and do the following:
Ignition OFF, power to cruise OFF, multimeter on OHM setting:
1) Test between pin 8 (brown wire) and ground = zero ohms, if not bad ground
2) Test between pin 3 (black/red) and ground, press brakes = infinite ohms, if not bad pedal
3) Repeat test with clutch pedal.
Ignition ON, cruise ON, mm to Volts DC:
4) Test between pin 1 (blue/red) and ground = 12V, if not bad fuse (power supply)
5) Test between pin 1 and pin 8 = 12V (re-checks power and ground in CC circuit)
6) With 5) above still connected (pins 1/8), shift the CC unit slightly in the direction of OFF, but don't click it over. If not = 12V, bad switch (checks half of a little documented "dump" or "coast" function)
Multi-meter back to OHMs:
7) Test between pin 3 and ground, switch CC ON/OFF. ON = zero ohms, OFF = infinite ohms; if not then bad switch.
8) Test between pin 3 and ground, switch CC from ON in the direction of OFF, but don't click over. Should go from zero to infinite and back, if not then bad switch. (tests the other half of the "coast" function)
9) Test between pin 3 and ground, switch CC to RES. Should be zero ohms, if not then bad switch.
10) Test between pin 6 (blue) and ground, switch CC to RES. Same as 9).
11) Test between pin 2 (red/yel) and ground, switch CC to SET. Same as 9).
12) Jumper between ground and pin 4 (blue/white). Pump should run (checks pump/wiring).
13) Jumper between ground and pin 7 (green/blue). Valve should click (hood open helps to hear it).
Alternative Method:
This requires nimble fingers and a little more delicacy, and won't test the wiring from the pump to the ECU or the switch connector to the ECU or the electrical switches at the pedals. It more effectively isolates the switch though and doesn't involve being upside down, on your back.
Everything off, you could pull the negative battery terminal to avoid honking the horn.
Remove the upper cover for the steering wheel. The CC wiring comes down the stalk and comes up over top, left side of the steering wheel switches and goes to a six pin connector. If you remove the steering wheel it's a lot easier; but is not absolutely necessary. I recommend it, anyway because you will probably need to do it to repair the switch wiring.
Better safe than exploding!!!
You may get lucky and see a broken wire or two in the bend from the stalk to the connector. The wires are wrapped in tape, though; so it may look okay. The following guide will identify which wires go where. You'll be checking the function of the switch. Use the wiring from under the dash to ID which pin is which. These are different pins than at the ECU, but pins 2, 3, and 5 are the other ends of the same wires.
Pin 1 = Black/yellow
Pin 2 = Blue
Pin 3 = Red/yellow
Pin 4 = Black/blue
Pin 5 = Blue/red
Pin 6 = Red/black
Find pin 4 on the steering column connector, it provides power to the system and distributes it to the others. When testing, be careful not to short the meter at the pins, there's not much room back there.
Multimeter to OHMs:
Test between pin 4 and pin 5. Switch OFF = infinite/open. Switch ON = zero/closed. Switch from ON in direction of, but not OFF = zero/closed. Switch to RES = zero/closed.
Test between pin 4 and pin 2. Switch OFF = infinite/open. Switch ON = infinite/open. Switch from ON in direction of, but not OFF = infinite/open. Switch to RES = zero/closed.
Test between pin 4 and pin 3. Switch ON = infinite/open. Switch to SET = zero/closed.
Find pin 6. This gets the signal from the braking circuit.
Test between pin 6 and pin 1. Switch OFF = infinite/open. Switch ON = zero/closed. Switch from ON in direction of, but not OFF = infinite/open. Switch to RES =zero/closed.
If you have the Bentley you can see that there are more permutations, but this checks the important ones. You can also see that there are four switch postions in the stalk switch. The electrical positions correspond, from left to right with RES, ON, coast/dump, and OFF; not as posted as RES, OFF, ON. SET is a separate function down on the end.
If you do find a broken wire in the stalk, it is easiest to replace the wiring completely. In an interim, unsuccessful, repair I did successfully leave everthing in the car and added a separate "plug" connector from a computer on top of the column switches. This connector fixed an electrical problem, but I hadn't diagnosed the weak vacuum then. If you do remove the column switches to rewire the switch, take the following advice:
Be careful opening up the switch. There's a spring and a roller bearing-thing that jumps out. Find six strands of very thin test lead. It maintains its flexibility better. Each strand should be at least 4 - 6 inches longer than the original. Wrap all six strands in teflon plumbers tape. Push this bundle through the stalk from the base towards the end. Trying to route the cable the other way is a PITA. Solder (very carefully) the switch portion first. Snug the re-assembled switch in the stalk, then snip the wires to the correct length. Solder the pins for the connector last.
Cabriolet Top Replacement Experience
Forrest King
Warning: Any attempt to repair you car may cause problems. I am not responsible for your car, your errors, or your economic losses resulting from your use of this information.
Ok folks, I drive a 1991 Cabriolet that originally came with a dark blue canvas top. After sitting for a few years while the previous owner was inn possession, the top was a bit dilapidated. The canvas was torn left to right all the way across the top at the first fold point (about 1 foot aft of the header). I shopped around in my region and was quoted astronomical prices for the replacement of just the outer shell, anywhere from $675 at an upholstery shop to $1300 at Brad Noe VW in Tulsa, OK. After peaking with one of the local upholstery shops on the phone I stopped by to check out their operation and let them see the tops actual condition. This is when I decided to replace the top myself- the guy was going on and on about how much experience you need to do this repair and how VW tops are by far the most difficult, and then I met his shop help. The shop help was 17 and was in desperate need of some education, he had been working for the guy for 2 weeks and was in the process of replacing a Mustang top- alone.
PREPARATION (physical and mental)
Some required knowledge: The VW top is held on by three cables, one at the back and two on the sides. The side cables must be replaced and are available at your local VW Dealership for about $11 US. The rear cable can be reused and you will most likely want to do this as it costs $93 US at your dealer. The best place to learn about the VW top is the replacement top. I suggest you lay it out on your living room floor and just take it in for a few minutes. You will notice that there is no hole for the rear window, DO NOT TRY TO MAKE ONE NOW. You will also notice that there is a pocket at the front of the new top, this is where the top is slipped over the frame on your car, it is the attachment point for the front of the car. You will see a thick bead stitched into the rear of the rear of the replacement top, this is where the rear cable runs and is the attachment point for the rear of the top. The sides have slots that run ½ the length of the entire top, or the area over the windows if you can picture this. These slots are for the side cables, these cables and their accompanying springs are the attachments for the sides of the top.
I searched locally and on the internet for other people who had replaced VW Cabby tops themselves and found a few great references, I will include these links at the end. After viewing their reports I created a list of tools that I would need, it included all of these:
· Screwdrivers, Phillips and flat
· Utility Knife (or razor)
· Craftsman 9mm/10mm offset ratcheting wrench (pt # 43367)
· Wooden clothespin
· Spray Glue, 3M or other reputable brand, get the strongest bond.
· Pliers, needle nose preferably
· Electric staple gun (with staples and extension cord if needed)
· Roll of nylon string- not cotton and not rope
· Miscellaneous other hand tools, including wrenches and sockets.
A critical tool in the replacement of my top was the Craftsman Offset Ratcheting Wrench, it brings a certain amount of ease to a horribly difficult situation. Read On.
To start, remove the lower bench of the rear seat, it is held in by 2 screws on the front lip of the seat- thats all. Remove the package tray, that is the piece covered in carpet that hides the contents of your trunk. Fold down the rear seat, you do this by pulling the knob hidden under the trunk door and then pulling the strap located on the side of the rear seatback near the top. Leave the trunk lid open. The seat back should fold down nearly flat. Removing all of these components will create more working area in your car and give you places to contort your body while attempting to remove the rear cable. Now look under the package tray sides (the parts that remained in the car), you will see the headliner is stretched over some points to hold it tight. Grasp the headliner and pull is firmly but gently in the direction of the points to remove it. After you do this to all of the points the headliner will hang loosely from the top. Roll down all of the windows. Pop the latches for the top but do not fold the top yet.
Now is a good time to look at the side cables of your top- study them, make drawings, take pictures- whatever you need to do in order to create that same setup later.
Note: In this section I am going to cover the removal of the top. The VW Cabby top goes on in exactly the same manner that it comes off, so once again study, take notes or take pictures. I found the best way was just to look at how the pieces worked and understand the system of parts.
First, the rear window must be removed. This is a very simple use of brute strength. Crawl inside the car and have a friend stand outside of the car at the rear window. Place the palm of you hand, with as much surface area of your hand contacting the glass as possible, on the rear window at the upper corner. PUSH. The glass will slowly start to come out of the seal and will come right out after you release the initial hold of the seal. Have your buddy catch the window if you become overzealous in your pushing efforts, otherwise have him gently tug at the glass to free it. Now pull the window seal out and set it aside. Get your flat head screwdriver and remove ALL of the staples that hold the old top to the rear window frame (yes folks, they stapled it together). Once you remove the staples you can look around the inside of the top- study up.
Next, remove as much of the top as you can with your handy utility knife. To remove the center section would be more than enough. Remember you are throwing this old top away, so feel free to sacrifice it in order to learn as much as you can. I suggest cutting it from about 1 foot behind the header, down the seams along each side, and across the back just below the rear window frame.
At the front of the top there is a metal bar that crosses the header, it has some brackets that hold the corners on also. Start by removing the brackets at the corners and placing the hardware in plastic zipper bags, or visually separating them on a counter or other work surface. Remove the corner brackets and then remove all of the screws holding the header bar. You should then be able to pull the header bar off, taking care not to bend it. Now move you focus to the sides of the top. You will notice that there are rubber seals covering the area where screws would be. These rubber seals slide out of their brackets, but be very careful as they are no longer available from the dealer and are very expensive to locate. Once you have slid out all three of the seals on each side you will see the metal brackets that hold the seals and you should be able to see the screws that hold the bracket to the top frame. On some cars the screws were covered with tape that makes a sticky mess when you try to remove it. But alas, the screws must be removed. After you remove all of the brackets you will then notice that the top is also glued to the frame, notice how this is done because we will be putting the replacement top on in the same fashion. Peel the top off of the frame and look around inside. Notice the spring tensioners for the side cables. Now is a good time to remove the side cables. Use your needle nose pliers to remove the cables at the front and then slip them off at the rear spring. Pull the springs out, but notice where they came from. You will need these old side cables to make the new side cables the correct length- do not cut them or throw them away, you may have to cut the top to get them out. Now you should be able to remove most of the top, if you cut the top like I suggested above you will be able to remove everything except the last few inches of the rear. These last few inches of the rear are where the cable is holding the top on. This cable is inside of a lip that is formed into the car chassis, the top is laid over the lip, and then the cable over the top. The cable is pulled tight and it sucks the top into the groove created by the lip- a neat little setup by Mr. Karmann. To remove this cable you have to crawl inside the car and lie on your back. The end of the cable is located behind the rear window and down inside the body of the car. Use the 10mm ratcheting offset wrench to loosen the nut on the end of the cable. If you intend to reuse this cable it is imperative that you use a backup wrench while loosening this cable (and when tightening it later) otherwise you will twist the end off of it and add 100 dollars to your bill. Once the cable is loose at one end switch to the other side and remove that nut, it should be easier now. After removing both nuts retreat to the outside of the car. Drink a Dos Equis, you deserve it. Pull on the last scrap of the top that is still on the car, you will be pulling out the cable also. Notice how the cable lays over the top and how these two fit into the groove below the lip- study, take pictures, whatever. You have now removed the entire top. Place the rear cable in a safe area with its corresponding nuts. Boy you are screwed if it starts raining.
You are more than half way done, if you have taken the time to observe the methods used to attach the top you will have no problems from here on out.
Now take the top and put it over the empty frame. Do not try to put the frame in the pocket, or do anything right now, just place the top on the car and visualize what you are doing. It looks nice doesnt it.
To start the operation you will need to put the top back on the ground. Go find the side cables you saved from earlier, and the new cables you bought at the dealership. The new cables came straight (not pre crimped). Take this time to put a crimp on the ends of the cable and fish a string or fish tape thru the slot in the replacement top. Tape the end of the new cable to the fish tape and pull it thru. Let the cable sit there quietly for now. Place the new top back on the frame, this time seat the frame in the pocket of the top. Now is the time to attach the header bar. Be careful and try to get the front bead of the top to sit flat against the windshield frame. If you mess up dont worry, you can re do this later to get the front edge of the top to seat correctly. You will most likely be doing this while standing on your front seats with the top in a half open position. Leave the top in this half open position and head to the back of the car. You are now going to thread the rear cable through the slots in the top and into the body of the car. This step is frustrating because the top can pop out of position and be generally difficult, if your helper has not consumed all of your beer use him to hold the top and cable in place. You may find it easier to thread the cable through the top on one side only and then slip inside of the car and screw a nut on the end of the cable just a few threads. You can then return outside and continue trying to line up the top and the cable. The idea here is to have the cable sit just above the bead on the rear of the top and directly over the groove. If you can get this to line up you are doing great. You will then want to slip the other nut onto the other end of the cable (if you have not already done this in the course of trying to line it all up). Using the backup wrench and the ratcheting 10mm put a small amount of tension on the cable. The Physics of tightening the cable to draw the top into the groove are all wrong. YOU WILL BREAK THE CABLE IF YOU TRY TO PULL THE TOP INTO THE GROOVE BY SIMPLY TIGHTENING THE CABLE. Use the end of the wooden clothespin to get the top and cable into the groove, a rubber mallet will help too, but dont tap the clothespin hard enough to tear the top. You can also position the clothespin on the cable, then you have to worry a little less about tearing the top, but it requires more force to seat the cable if you choose this manner. I suggest you start in the center and work your way to each edge. Have your friend keep an eye on it, too, and make sure the top does not go on crooked. Once the entire cable/top/groove system is seated you will need to return to the inside and tighten the 10mm nuts, using the backup wrench, tighten this up until you are worried. The tighter the better, unless you get it too tight and then you have to buy a new one The sides and rear should all tuck in nicely as you tighten this cable, have your now drunk friend gently use the clothespin to insure it all fits. Now, drink a few Dos Equis yourself, that nut on the cable is a bear. (you should be at 3 beers in about 4 hours so far.)
Now is the time to close the top. You want to make sure when it latches that it pulls the wrinkles out of the top and looks good. The sides should still be hanging loose at this point. Look at the front of the top, where the bead of the top contacts the windshield frame. You want that bead to be flush and uniform, so get your Phillips screwdriver out and make a few adjustments and see if you can get it to look nice.
The sides are relatively easy. If you did the rear cable then you can do heart surgery and ice sculpture- the sides should be a piece of cake. Attach the side cables to the front attachment point and then re-assemble the spring tensioner assembly. Refer to your pictures, notes or beer bottle diagrams at this point to ensure correctness.
Glue time. Get the upholstery glue that you purchased, it should be a strong glue that has a high release point temperature- 3M is good, but avoid their 77 and Super 77. Use a piece of cardboard to shield the interior of your car and spray small amounts of glue to the frame rails. You are applying glue to the part where the seals and seal brackets mount, NOWHERE ELSE. After you apply the glue pull the flaps on the top around the frame and stick them to the glue. Follow the Glue Manufacturers directions in regards to if you should place glue on each piece to be assembled, or just on one. Once you have satisfactorily positioned each of the three flaps you are going to install the seal mounting brackets. These brackets act as a clamp to ensure that nothing flops loose at 75 MPH. You will attach all of the brackets making sure to place them in the correct position and side from which they originally came; NO, they are not all the same. Once you have attached the brackets you will want to use the utility knife to remove the excess material on the inside of the bracket. Taking your time and cleaning up really pays off here, under the hood it doesnt matter too much, but in upholstery work cleanliness counts towards functionality.
The seals slide into the seal brackets. Using Vaseline or another lubricant is helpful. Silicone spray is always a good bet when trying to lube rubber parts. Take care in replacing the rubber seals, think $$$$. I have seen a used set of these sell for $200+.
After you have replaced the side rubber seals and are happy with the way the front fit you are going to want to trim the material from beneath the header bar. Take care to not cut through the headliner and really foul things up. You should be able to at this point, close the top and get in the car. You should be able to roll up the windows, and sit in peace within the confines of your car and drink another Dos Equis.
While you are consuming the adult libation you may notice that you cant see jack out the rear window. This is because the rear window is sitting on the love seat in the family room. You can drive your car at this point and it looks really cool. It appears to be a mix between the European Golf Vans and a Cabriolet.
The rear window is an easy installation. If you stopped and drove your car for a few weeks like I did then this additional step should take 45 minutes including setup and installation. If you are continuing on then it should be another 30 minutes or so.
Feel around the rear window to figure out where the frame is, you are going to have to cut a hole inside the dimensions of the rear frame without getting even the slightest bit out of the lines, I suggest you cut small and then staple. Yes, staple.
You should cut an X shape through the top within the window frame, you are going to need to make relief cuts in the top material at the corners in order to get it to lie down without wrinkles. THE TOP MUST BE CLOSED AND LATCHED COMPLETELY BEFORE CUTTING OR STAPLING. Be sure to not cut a circle out as this severely limits the amount of material you have left to tug on. You will pull the material taught and then use the electric staple gun to fire staples through the top material into the frame of the window. The frame is wooden if you are wondering, they just paint it black to match the interior. Now that you have stapled all the way around the frame taking care to use at least as many staples as the factory did you are read to pop the rear glass in place. If you have ever installed a wind shield into a gasket type setting then you are used to this. If not, read on.
Take the rear window gasket and install it onto the rear window. Get a roll of nylon string and wrap the string around in the seal groove at least twice, if not more. If you have never done this before you will be wrapping the string and trying over, so dont fret. If you complete the following steps twice without success drink Dos Equis and then come back to it.
You have the string wrapped around the seal, so set the window up against the outside of the car. Have your slowly sobering buddy hold it in place. Crawl inside of the car and find the END of the string (not the beginning ), gently pull the string at a 90 degree angle from the plane of the glass. This will roll the lip of the seal in and allow the whole thing to seat nicely. You wrapped the string twice or more so that parts of the gasket do not roll in on the first lap around the window they will have another chance on the next lap. VW windows fit well and this should be easy for anyone who can butter bread.
You are now finished replacing the top. Congratulations. Send me pictures: firstname.lastname@example.com preferably of each step and the completed deal. Put your tools away and then go inside and apologize to your significant other. You are a touch too tipsy to drive so maybe have a nice dinner at home or have the previously mentioned significant other drive to dinner.
I hope this helps. If you have problems with my spelling or grammar feel free to make a contribution towards my tuition: Forrest King, 1807 S. Jackson Ave #A, Tulsa, OK 74107.
Top: World Upholstery, 1-800-222-9577 . Please tell them I sent you. The lady who answers the phone is a RUDE, but the product is amazing and fits perfectly. Better quality than JCWhitney. I paid $218 shipped for a vinyl cabriolet grain top in a custom blue.
Wrench: Sears. Buy the damn wrench. You will thank me.
Online Resources:
http://pages.cthome.net/frank.....html (a good reference)
courtesy of Cab42: Where can I find parts for my Cabriolet?
General Parts, Accessories -- used & new
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Autosport Volkswagen
Awesome GTI Store
German Auto Parts
German Car Company
J Bugs
JC Whitney
M&T Manufacturing
Rapid Parts
Specialized German Recycling
The Parts Bin
Vee Parts & Accessories
Volks Bits (UK)
VW Parts.com
VW Swap.com
Performance Parts & Related Accessories
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Advanced Motorsport
Concept 1
DÄT Autosport
Dubtechnik Tuning
Elcats.ru *
Eurosport ACC
GPR Parts
Hawk Performance
Import Vision Motorsports
Memo Imports
OMP Racing
Perfect Image Creations
Platinum Europarts
Techtonics Tuning
TMT Tuning
TSR Performance
Misc search sites:
Alldata (recalls, technical bulletins, etc.)
Gapa (parts stores)
Partsvoice (search for OEM parts and where they're located in the USA)
Top / Interior Sources
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Cabrio World
Corbeau seats
J Bugs
M&T Manufacturing
Meister gauge faces
VW Interiors and Tops
Wet Okole seat covers
Floor Mats, Car Covers, Car Bras, Bike Racks & Other Vehicle Accessories
Beverly Hills Motorsport
Body Styling & Kits
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
ABD Racing
AMI Motorsports
Concept 1
Erebuni Corp
EStrictly Foreign
NOPI online
Perfect Choice Motorsports
TMT Tuning
(if the website isnt given just google the name)
How to make your side markers flash with your turn signals.
I promised that I'd post this about 6 month ago while I was in the gulf away from my computer. I just got done tracing down where I got it from to give the originator the proper credit for coming up with it. I have not done this yet myself but it is on my to do list and it looks like it should work fine to me.
After having recommended several times that people should look to their fuel pressure regulator for the source of their pressure leakdown and the poor startnig that creates, I decided to document it.
My GTI once suffered from this and upon pulling it all apart found that the "tiny o-ring" (not to be confused with the "big o-ring") had disintegrated and particles of it were holding the regulator "bleed" open. When that happens the fuel pressure quickly goes to nothing once the engine is shut off. When you go to start it there's no pressure to squirt the cold start injector and you can have vapor locked injectors as well.
Here's a breakdown of the parts.
It is removed with a 16mm wrench from the drivers side of the fuel distributor. (trivia... it may be the only use you'll have for a 16mm wrench on an A1).
It is in two parts, one slippign over the other with a spring betwen them (alright thats 3 parts)
You'l be able to simply pull the first part out and the spring may come with it but the part with the tiny o-ring will no doubt stay stuck inside. Simply put a cap from an anti-freeze bottle by the hole and hit the key switch for a second. The pump will run and the fuel pressure will pop out the parts ito the cap. if there is any crud inside it wil also blow it out.
Remove parts and clean and examine. Spray carb cleaner up in to the hole liberally and flush by runnig the pump for a second.
The tiny o-ring in my picture is not round but tapered. That's what happens when you get 200,000 miles old. Lacking another o-ring the right size I simply took it off and reversed it. Reassemble in the right order and check for leaks (don't forget to put the copper washer back on.)
With the o-ring now sealing well I have almost instant starting! The procedure is simple but the parts are tiny!!!
NOTE: do not attempt to readjust the allen head screw at the center of the 16mm head. That is the actual adjustment for the FPR and is factory set expressly for your fuel distributor. Attempt to adjust this rarely gain you anything.
Modified by Moljinar at 3:30 PM 12-12-2004
Cabriolet Who's Who Thread
Oil Pressure Problems and how to solve them
How to change your motor mounts
How to change your oil pump
List of Injectors Data
How to Clean/service your tappets
Knock Sensor Installation
Solid Lifter Engine Valves Adjustment
2L 3A Bubble Block Swap
Another ABA Swap Page
Throttle Body Upgrade
2L ABA block swap
How to Adjust your timing
How to change the camshaft
Lot's of usefull Digifant Info (Ken's Page)
How to Increase the air flow to the stock airbox
How to Improve the airflow in your airbox
Digifant Idle Woes
CIS Bible
How to fix the side vents cold air only problem
Fix your fan blower
Fix your Blower Motor #2
Retrofit R134 to R12 system
Center Vent problem (Vacuum)
Center Vent Problem Take 2
CIS Vacuum Lines
How to change your blower motor
How to test your clutch
Complete guide to convert from Auto to Manual!
Gear ratios and RPM/Speed Calculator
5th Gear Conversion
Limited Slip Differential Upgrade
How to change rotors and Pads
How to Change your tie rod ends
How to change the rear shocks
Serpentine Belt How to
Installing a Scirocco 4 point Lower Stress Bar
Front Wheel Bearings Change
Rear Wheel Bearings Change
Hydraulic Power Top Repair
How to Connect a CE2 Cluster to CE1 harness
How to switch from 12 to 24 hour format on the LCD clock
Starter: How to change the bushing
Headlight Relays Installation
Installing adjustable height headlight motors
How the starter/soilenoid work
How to install blue LEDs and White faces in your gauge
How to install white faces and blue LEDs in 52mm VDO gauges
Starter Heat Soak Problem
Cruise Control Diagnostics
How to remove the toilet bowl spring clamps
Odometer repair
How to swap A3 stalks into an A1 cabriolet
Corrado Dash in a MK1 Shell
How to change your golvebox lid
How to remove your dashboard
Heater Core Change
Gas Pedal Bushing
How to fix your broken/clicking speedo
How to replace the rear window frame
Complete Guide How to Change your Top
How to clean the inside of your headlights
How to create cheap crossovers for your tweeters
Stereo Cable Colors
ICE installation Hints and Tips
Quartett Brochure
I will gather as much info as possible and add them here.
Modified by Black_cabbie at 1:35 AM 5-23-2006
Modified by Black_cabbie at 2:40 PM 2-5-2007
Replacing in-dash center vent/defrost servo (Cabs with power window switches)
Vacuum diagram
What to look for when buying an A1 Cabriolet -- can also be used for A3s
Names and other Misc. Information
What do the names and badges mean?
What are the differences between the models of A1 Cabriolets?
What are all the trim levels of A1 Cabriolets?
What interiors did the A1 Cabriolets come with?
Top and Boot
Almost everything you need to know about your A1 Cabriolet's top and boot
Cleaning & Protecting
Source for replacement Cabrio(let) tops
Gauges & Warning Lights
What do the gauges &/or warning lights mean?
Fuses & Relays: Where and what are they?
How to install a radio head unit into an A1 Cabriolet
Parts & Accessories
List of links to parts & accessories
Modified by kamzcab86 at 4:11 PM 9-26-2005
what you need
11mm,13mm socket. T25 Torx, Power Steering Fluid(G 002 012)
1.remove hydraulic PUMP from car.
disconnect power cable. and use T25 Torx two unbolt next to hydraulic lines. just pull lined. it came out.
2.remove a power moter from PUMP ues T25 Torx.
3.so you see this plastic piece and piece of metal(top of pic)
you can see plastic piece is crack. this is stupid VW did not sale this piece. so you need buy all motor+pump and it is $800
so i just make piece of metal little more thick and bend each side.
insert plastic piece. glue it.
That IT. it is working fine now.
so you will spend$800 http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif
Sorry my english not so good but hope help!!!
P.S you can use plastic piece VW Parts #1E0871687
Modified by golf914 at 12:58 PM 7-5-2005
This is a problem: bad heater core.
Let's change it!
1. First of all we must drain a coolant. Remove a big hose from a thermostat. This is the lowest point in the cooling system (I think)
It will be good if the engine is warm (not very hot!), so the thermostat is open.
2.Disconnect 2 hoses under the hood:
Remove rubber sealer, push it through the firewall
3.Remove accelerator pedal and try to keep all this small details http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_gr...grin_upper.gif
4.Remove cover over the heater core (in my case there was no screws)
5. Try to pull out the core and find that it stuck.The reason of this is those hoses and next bad thing is a brake pedal http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif
6.Now we must remove the heater assembly... http://vwvortex.rely.net/zeroforum_graphics/mad.gif
Remove 4 screws and push this thing down
Like this:
remove center console. Turn heater body counterclockwise and pull out the core!
7.PA-BAAAAAAAAAAAM! [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Old and "new"
8.Remove hoses from old core and put them on a new one. Change it if needed! Install new heater core by pushing it in a place!
9.Reassemble all in back order. http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif
10. Add a drained coolant (or a new one), don't close a cap.
11. Start the engine, warm it up and wait until thermostat will open to be sure that all the air is out.
Use your best tool (your hand) to check it- when lower engine radiator hose becomes hot-it opens!
12.Replace and tight a coolant expansion tank cap.
13.Wait until an engine vent turns on, check for leaks (engine must run).
14. If all is OK, take a test ride, buy a http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif
http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif
Modified by Mixagolf1 at 4:45 PM 3-17-2005
How hard is it to swap a 16v in an Cabriolet? What do I need in order to do it, etc.
THE 16v A1 Swap Post
-Don't ask a question until you have read the whole thing.
one more for the FAQS...
Manual Tranny Gear Oil Change
Modified by topduko19 at 8:34 PM 5-12-2005
How to do your own tests to see if your clutch is on its way out...
is the rear bolt pattern still 4x100 on the 1.8t passat and what year passat we talking ? would the brake boost fit a mk2 cabriolet or could i use a 16v rocco brake master booster for the proportioning vavle issue?
Bentley admits a wiring diagram error for the fuel pump on Digi cars:
Quote » Good Afternoon, Gentlemen,
The factory wiring diagram for the fuel pump circuit is indeed incorrect and I've run into this before when I was teaching that system back in 1987 when it was first introduced.
There are NO electronics inside a DIGIFANT fuel pump relay; it is a straight remote switch. That system is significantly different than the previous CIS systems because the signal to run that relay was an on/off signal which the relay electronics used to switch on the pump(s). Digifant fuel pump circuits use a continuous ground from the ECM to run the pump(s).
Pinout of that system is VERY easy! I have a 191 906 383C here on my desk as I type this.
Use a test light to "see" the signal that the relay "sees" on the fuse/relay panel.
Pin 86 is a terminal 15 - power with the key on and when cranking.
Pin 30 is a terminal 30 - battery power all the time.
Pin 87 is power output to the fuel pump.
Pin 85 (the little one) is the trigger signal from pin 3 of the DIGIFANT ECM.
System operation is super simple. When the DIGIFANT ECM sees the signal from the CMP in the distributor, it sends a ground signal to the fuel pump relay, the relay contacts close, and power is sent to the fuel pump(s). Sometimes, when you first turn the key on, the pump(s) may run for a second, but sometimes they don't.
Depending on the vehicle type, that relay also supplies power to other components such as the injectors or the oxygen sensor heater.
My relay is marked with the control number 167.
I missed what you were trying to fix, but if you think that the fuel pump(s) are not running, test them by jumping the big pins on the fuse/relay panel with a fused jumper wire in place of the relay.
Arthur LeBrun
Bentley Publishers
Remove the protective cover and open rear lid. Turn the T-bar on hydraulic pump counterclockwise until it stop.


text:
Physics I am lost please help
posted by Angelina .
A planet has two satellite moons. Moon X has an orbital period of 2.13 days. Moon Y has an orbital period of about 3.53 days. Both moons have nearly circular orbits. Use Kepler's third law to find the distance of each satellite from the planet's center. The planet's mass is 2.0 10^26 kg.
Moon X km?
Moon Y km?

subset: commoncrawl


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text:
Edinburgh, City of Edinburgh
Classification Easy walk
Distance 4.5 miles (7.25km)
Duration 2 hours
Height gain 150m
Starting point Royal Academy (Princes Street and The Mound)
OS grid reference NT 254 739 (Explorer map 350)
Walk in a nutshell
The outward leg meanders through the grand streets of Edinburgh's New Town, one of Britain's architectural gems, up to the Gallery of Modern Art. The return follows an attractive route along the banks of the Water of Leith, largely walking within a wooded valley, and heading under an impressive 1830s viaduct. The walk ends at the Royal Botanic Garden, which boasts the world's second richest collection of plant species.
Why it's so special
New Town has the finest concentration of Georgian architecture in Europe, and with its broad, quiet roads and verdant gardens, it's difficult to believe you're in the centre of a city.
Keep your eyes peeled for
The elegant symmetry of Moray Place, one of Edinburgh's most distinctive addresses (designed by James Graham in 1822), and the spectacular Dean Bridge - more of a viaduct really - constructed by Thomas Telford (the "Colossus of Roads") in 1832.
But bear in mind
Some parts of this route are open only between 9am and 5pm (or dusk if earlier). There are ways to bypass this problem, but to get the best out of the walk, aim to complete it within these hours.
Impress your companions
New Town's elegant, consistent style derives from being built to a single plan - devised by 22-year-old James Craig in 1766, who won a contest to design the new area.
Recover afterwards
For some well-earned posh nosh, head to the stylish Point Restaurant on Bread Street, or Hadrian's on Princes Street.
And if it's tipping down
Architecturally speaking, it's got to be Holyrood, the not-long-open parliament building at the foot of Edinburgh's Royal Mile. Built from steel, oak and granite, this complex and not-exactly-cheap building has been hailed as one of Britain's most innovative.
1-4. Start outside Royal Academy, head down Hanover Street, across roundabout. Continue straight on Queen Street Gardens East to crossroads. Turn left along Heriot Row, then straight on at another crossroads. Take Moray Place at junction. Turn left, walking clockwise around this Place, turn left down road (also Moray Place, becoming Gloucester Place). Turn left down Gloucester Street, then left into India Place. After 150m, turn right over bridge.
5-6. Turn left at Upper Dean Terrace (becomes Ann Street), ignoring junction. Turn left along Dean Park Crescent for 100m. Turn left down Clarendon Crescent, on to Queensferry Road.
7-8. Now take Belgrave Crescent, then right on to Belgrave Place, left on to Buckingham Terrace. Left on to Queensferry Road, left on to Dean Path. Between 9am and 5pm, walk past iron gates to Dean Cemetery. Ignore branches to left. When path veers left, enter gate in wall marked "Dean Gallery"; turn left on to path.
9-11. Walk along left side of gallery, then right along its front, to gate. Take zebra crossing, enter gate into Gallery of Modern Art. Take left fork ("Water of Leith Walkway"), follow path, turn left into car park. Cross, enter gate. Keep straight on path, down steps to Water of Leith, then cross footbridge.
12-13. Turn left, path skirts overgrown area on right. Ignore fork to right - continue through gap in wall ahead. Follow path along riverbank (ignore paths on right), cross footbridge to other bank after 3/4 mile. Continue past hotel ponds to path under Belford Bridge.
14-15. Continue past bridge with Water of Leith on right. Ignore footbridge. After ½ mile you arrive at weir. Pass under next bridge, then turn left up steep ramp before crossing bridge to other bank. With river on left now, climb up cobbled street to junction by sign for "St Bernard's Well and Stockbridge". This is now Dean Village.
16-17. Follow sign down Miller Row, then along riverbank under Dean Bridge. After 3/4 mile, enter gate on right of temple marking St Bernard's Well and descend towards water, turning right to continue along river bank. At bridge (from earlier) do not climb steps - take archway underneath. Continue along riverbank. At traffic lights take steps on left (beside Pizza Express), continuing beside river (ignore exits on left).
18-19. After ¼ mile path climbs to road-bridge. Cross, take Arboretum Avenue on left, follow river and road as they turn right. Road bends back left; instead enter gateway on outside of bend. Continue beside river, ignore footbridge over, staying on path. After ½ mile path ends at bridge. Do not take bridge but turn left towards minor road. Turn right, past garages to Inverleith Row (Summer Place).
20. For Botanic Gardens go left for 50m, enter gate on left. Return to city centre by bus - or to walk, retrace steps along Inverleith Row and continue to mini-roundabout. Turn right, then follow road back to start.
How to get there
By bus: Almost any city bus will take you near the Royal Academy (next to National Gallery), right in the middle of Edinburgh at junction of Princes Street and The Mound. Look out for handy "pedestrian navigator" maps at bus stops if you have trouble finding the walk's starting point.
By train: Waverley railway station is five minutes' walk along Princes Street.


text:
TxDOT is currently in the public involvement process to identify potential improvements on US 377 at SH 171 in Cresson. The proposed four-lane relief route would improve safety and mobility along this corridor. This project is a partnership between TxDOT, Hood County and the North Central Texas Council of Governments.
Alternatives Analysis
Contact Us
Fort Worth District Office
2501 SW Loop 820
Fort Worth, TX 76133
Phone: (817) 370-6500
Stephenville Area Office
2281 E Washington
Stephenville, TX 76401
Phone: (254) 965-3511


text:
Souba Named Dartmouth Medical School Dean
09/10/10 7:04AM By Lynne McCrea
(Host) Dartmouth College has a new dean of its medical school.
President Jim Yong Kim announced Thursday that Dr. Wiley "Chip" Souba will lead Dartmouth Medical School.
Kim described Souba as a highly regarded cancer surgeon, scientist, and leader.
Dr. Souba comes to the college from Ohio State University.
He said he wants to build a 'bridge' between Dartmouth's medical center, and the work going on in its science labs, where researchers are continually making new discoveries.
(Souba) "There's a great opportunity to take that knowledge and the word we use is 'translate' it, into therapies, and treatments that make a difference to the people of New Hampshire, but also to the people of the world."
(Host) Souba succeeds Dr. William Green, who is returning to his role as Dean of the Department of Microbiology and Immunology.
Dartmouth officials praised Green helping the medical school thrive during a time of financial uncertainty.


text:
Western Carolina Holds Off Bulldogs
March 5, 2013
ATHENS, Ga. ---- Western Carolina outlasted Georgia 12-7 Tuesday at Foley Field in a game that lasted three hours and 40 minutes not counting a rain delay of more than an hour.
Redshirt freshman David Gonzalez was given the nod as the Bulldog (5-7) starter, making his third appearance of the season. Gonzalez walked Western Carolina's (7-6) Aaron Attaway to lead off the game and then surrendered a single into centerfield to Cody Jones. After Jones reached base, the skies opened up and gave way to a rain delay that lasted one hour and 22 minutes before the teams returned to play. The rain delay was the end of Gonzalez's day, as Mike Mancuso took the mound once action resumed.
The Catamounts (7-6) came out hot after the rain delay, pushing across five runs on six hits in the top of the first. With runners already on first and second, Tyler White provided a sacrifice bunt to advance both runners up one base. In the next at bat, Jacob Hoyle lined one right back up the middle that hit off of Mancuso's shoe and fell for an infield single, scoring Attaway from third. Hoyle was followed by Austin Neary, who boomed a double off of the center field wall that scored Jones and sent Hoyle to third. The Catamounts tacked on four more runs on a sacrifice fly from Bradley Strong and RBI hits from Bryant Noteboom and Danny Bermudez.
Georgia tacked on a run of their own in the bottom of the first thanks to a sacrifice fly by Hunter Cole that made the score 5-1. Curt Powell drove a one out double into the gap in left center field, and then advanced to third on a pass ball prior to scoring on Cole's sacrifice.
The Bulldogs had another opportunity to cut into the Catamount's lead in the bottom of the second inning as the first two batters reached base on a walk and a single. Morgan Bunting then beat out a potential 4-6-3 double play to put the Bulldogs in position to score with runners on the corners and no outs. Western Carolina starter Taylor Sandefur then walked DJ Smith to load the bases with just one out. Sandefur was able to escape without any harm, however, forcing both Nelson Ward and Powell to pop out in order to end the inning.
Georgia again posed a threat to Western Carolina's lead in the bottom of the fourth, this time they were able to capitalize. Jared Walsh, who posted a career-high four-hit game, led off the inning with a double off the wall in left field. Walsh was followed by pinch hitter J.T. Phillips who drew a walk from Hunter Brister. After Smith advanced Walsh and Phillips on a sacrifice bunt, Ward drove in Walsh on a bloop single into centerfield that cut the Catamount's lead to 5-2 after four.
Western Carolina responded quickly with two runs in the fifth as they increased their lead to 7-2, thanks to an RBI double from Noteboom and a two out RBI single from Attaway.
Georgia cut into the Catamount's lead again in the bottom of the sixth; scoring three runs after loading the bases with no outs. Walsh led off the inning with his third hit of the game and later scored on a fielder's choice ground out by Ward. Powell then drove in the second run of the inning on a sacrifice fly to right field. The Bulldog's 3-4-5 hitters then drew three consecutive two out walks to load the bases, and then bring in another run to make it a 7-5 game through six.
Yet again, Western Carolina wasted no time in answering Georgia's attempted comeback, scoring five runs in the top of the seventh inning. After a throwing error by Powell kept the inning a live and allowed for another run to score, Jarrett Brown was brought into finish the inning. However, he surrendered a two out walk and then a three run homer to Cody Jones that put the Catamounts ahead 12-5. WCU employed seven pitchers on the night with Hunter Brister (1-0) picking up a win. Georgia used eight pitchers.
The Bulldogs put forth a valiant effort at a comeback in the bottom of the ninth, tacking on two additional runs on a two out double by pinch hitter Jess Posey, but ultimately fell short by the final tally of 12-7.
"You can't expect to win when you give up a couple of five-spots," said Georgia coach David Perno. "We have to execute our pitches better in key situations. Bottom line, we have to figure out our pitching for these midweek games. We had our chances at the plate too. We drew a lot of walks but didn't get enough key hits for any big innings. "
Georgia is currently in the midst of a nine-game home stand that will pick back up Friday night as they take on Liberty (9-2) in the first of a three game series.
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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
|This article does not cite any sources. (January 2008) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)
Picados are the flamenco scales of a guitar (see flamenco guitar), or a guitar playing technique where the musician plays scale passages by alternating the index and middle fingers. Picado is normally executed apoyando (with rest strokes). It is often used rapidly to play a melody.
This technique is similar to that of the rest stroke played in classical guitar. The difference is that technique is of central importance in flamenco while peripheral in classical. This enables flamenco guitarists to perform rapid picados while compromising tone quality.
|This article relating to guitars is a stub. You can help Wikipedia by expanding it.


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text: Jul 20, 2011 - I found this at my local TJ MAXX for 5.99. I used it as a detangler prior to my shampooing. I found that it worked well with that process and much less hair came out!! I was very pleased with the results and I may use it as a deep conditioner with my steamer. All in all, I love it!


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Staphylococcus aureus autoinducer-2 quorum sensing decreases biofilm formation in an icaR-dependent manner
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F/S Rims: 19" new rear tires$600
2 Attachment(s)
With the horrible roads in NY ive seem to get another slash on my front right rim :facepalm: and this is just after buying two new tires for my rear rims :banghead: so instead of buying a tire for my front right rim i decided i want to move on and get some nice 18 inch rims which is why i am selling my set of rims
I believe the brand is manaray or something like that
19 x 8.5
225 35 in front 235 35 in rear..you like what you see hit me up and make me an offer.
I really want to trade these for some 18's with good tires on them!
One rim..(my front right rim) Has a little more obvious damage to it but all 4 are perfectly rockable and dont need to be refinished
i want to get 700 as is since i just paid 350 for the back two tires and these are nice rims and dont look too big.
Really want to trade tho sooo hit me with some offers~:thumbsup: NEGOTIABLE!
Bump for my first thread post!
Can you upload more pics of the Rims?
:facepalm:The rims i am unsure of the brand...They are definetly reps...i thought they were asa's at first but when i looked at the back inside i noticed it said manaray i believe?..They look amazing but do have some wear an tear on them from the Ny driving conditions:facepalm:
Will not affect driving though
I will post some closer shots tomorrrow!
are these still for sale?
Yes they are... @jkalro i will pm you my number so we can talk directly if you like.
I currently have my stock rims on and i miss these 19's. I am thinking about buying new tires and mounting them back on my car if nobody buys them soon
Bumpp new price 650!
Does this fit 540I E39?
Hey sorry for replying late but yes they can fit but the offset may be a lil too high and you would need a 20mm spacer i believe..Please somebody buy these ASAP its my birthday at the end of the month and i got soo many plans i jus need money lol
bump need these gone so i can buy my new summer set
I am interesting in these wheels.
Could you send a detailed pic of all four wheels, also are any of the rims bent or cracked?
i pm'd you :)
Pm me and i will send you more detailed pics i want these gone before eurofest =)
:hmm:over 1,100 views and nobody goes thru with the sale yet
Completed your pshop request in my showroom thread :hi:
i think black centers would be pretty clean--it'd go with your tints at least.
but coming from a guy with teal wheels...the options are endless ;)
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Main Library
VCPL Lobby
Tuesday, April 22 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm
Join Mayor Bennett and Vigo County Historian, Mike McCormick in celebration of the past and current history of the Wabash Valley. There will be representatives from Wabash Valley organizations to share information about how you can contribute to this wonderful local history project. Don't miss it!


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Product Description
IEC Supplementary Protector, Amps 10, Number of Poles 1, Curve Type D, AC Voltage Rating 277VAC, DC Voltage Rating 65VDC, Max. AIR Rating 5kA, Trip Type Thermal Magnetic, Terminal Connection Lug, Mounting DIN Rail, Min. Wire Size 14 AWG, Max. Wire Size 4 AWG, Length 3.19 In., Width 0.71 In., Depth 3.00 In., Standards UL 1077, CE, CSA, IEC, Series C60N


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What is the average duration of the otoplasty surgery?Otoplasty surgery involves the reshaping and resizing of the ears. It is recommended for people who have disproportionately prominent ears. In most cases, the surgery can be performed at the adolescent age itself. This is because the ears attain their full growth very early, and thereafter it is better to get the surgery done to improve the patient's facial profile. Boys and girls can get teased at school or outside by their peer group if they carry on without corrective surgery.
Otoplasty surgery is fairly simple and it involves stitching back a portion of the ears to make them appear less prominent. The actual duration of the surgery ranges between 30 to 60 minutes for each ear, which means a total of about an hour and a half to do both ears.
However, more than the actual surgery time, the real time-consuming tasks include a thorough examination and evaluation of the patient's condition. It is most important to determine the proper shape of the ear.
If maximum time is invested in evaluation, assessment and preparation prior to the surgery, the actual surgery time will be reduced. The surgery goes smoothly in such a case and the most desirable results can be expected. The time involved in surgery also depends on the skills and experience of the operating surgeon. A new or inexperienced surgeon is likely to proceed very slowly with the procedure. But a surgeon who has performed a number of otoplasty procedures is likely to accomplish the procedure in much less time and more conservatively.
Patients can enjoy the best results if they have a prior understanding of the surgical procedure and have realistic expectations. The surgeon should spend sufficient time explaining the procedure and the expected results so that the patient's best cooperation is achieved.
Back to Facial Reconstruction Home Page
- NYC Otoplasty - What is the average duration of the otoplasty surgery?
- Otoplasty New York - What is otoplasty?
- Facial Reconstruction in New York City - What can you do with patients who develop nerve Injury?
- Facial Reconstruction Surgery NY - Which NY patients consider facial reconstruction surgery?
- Reconstructive Surgery New York - What is reconstructive surgery?
- Reconstructive Surgery Recovery New York City - How long does it take to recover from reconstructive surgery?
- New York City Otoplasty - How long will the bruising and swelling last in an otoplasty?
- Facial Plastic Surgery NYC - When might patients in the NYC area consider facial plastic surgery?
- Facial Deformities NYC - NYC area surgeon addresses facial deformities
- Facial Reconstruction NYC - When might facial reconstruction be necessary for NYC area patients?
- Reconstructive Surgery New York City - What can you do with patients that have a facial deformity?
- Facial Reconstruction Surgery New Jersey - Why facial reconstruction surgery may be considered by New Jersey area residents
- Cosmetic and Reconstructive Surgery - What is the difference between cosmetic and reconstructive surgery?
- Facial Reconstruction New York City - What is reconstructive facial surgery?
- Otoplasty New York City - How does the preoperative otoplasty appointment work?
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Edmund Kwan, M.D.5
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The staff treated me very kindly, with respect and genuine smiles. Dr Kwan is a real professional in my opinion. He took the time to listen to my story, addressed my concerns and took his time to walk me through the process and give me his opinion and explanation on his recommendation. I had my surgery in his practice and we went over everything again before I met up with the anesthesiologist, who was equally as nice and professional as everyone else at his practice. We started counting bikes ... and after bike #6 I fell a sleep. When I woke up, he was there to tell me I did great and before I knew it I was in a taxi cab back home with my best friend who came to pick me up. So I don't know if this is typical, but I had no pain whatsoever after the surgery. . I am very very happy with the results. Dr Kwan did an amazing job and I couldn't be more pleased.
Edmund Kwan, M.D.5
Rocky P.
I was involved in an automobile accident last May, 2013. The outcome from the emergency room left me with 5 stitches on the bridge of my nose, and the tip of my nose was missing due to the severe impact of the accident. I called and scheduled an appointment to visit Dr. Kwan so he could assess my nose. Upon arriving to the office, I was immediately impressed with the facility, service, and professionalism of his staff. Dr. Kwan met with me and examined my nose and in detail, he explained the approach he would take in order to get my nose like brand new again.On the day of my surgery, I was met by Dr Kwan, who performed the surgery, himself. His Anesthesiologist was very informative and professional as well. The outcome of Phase 1 was a success. In addition to that, the staff even called my medication into the pharmacy that way it would be ready as soon as I left the office. My nose is 98% back to normal, I now look forward to Phase 2 to be completed. After that procedure is done I am positive my nose will look absolutely perfect and I will be back to my confident self again. Thanks Dr Kwan and Staff.
Edmund Kwan, M.D.5
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I have been using Dr Kwan for over 10 years now. I have had many different procedures and all of them have turned out great. One of the breast augmentations had a crimp in the left breast and he had no problem going in to revise it to assure my satisfaction. I have always liked the way he answers each of my concerns and we go over everything for each procedure I've done several times to assure we are on the same page :) Take a list of any questions or concerns and I guarantee you will love your results no matter what procedure he is doing for you! .
*Individual results may vary


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What is in this article?:
- China's Yuan Hits Fresh Record High
- Report to Congress Delayed
- Yuan hits high against the U.S. dollar for second straight day
- Improving Chinese economy may be bolstering yuan
- Rise in yuan precedes semi-annual U.S. government report on exchange rates.
China's currency hit a record high against the U.S. dollar for the second straight day on Friday, amid U.S. political pressure and growing confidence in the domestic economy, analysts said.
The currency touched an intra-day high of 6.2380 to the dollar at the open, marking the highest level since 1994 when the country launched its modern foreign-exchange market.
Attempt to Defuse Criticism?
Analysts said China may be allowing the yuan to appreciate to defuse criticism that the unit is grossly undervalued, ahead of the U.S. presidential election on Nov. 6 and an upcoming U.S. government report on exchange rates.
The yuan closed at 6.2489 to $1 on Friday, weakening from Thursday's close of 6.2417, despite earlier touching the record high, according to figures from the China Foreign Exchange Trade System.
"There are expectations that Beijing may use this as a gesture to the United States ahead of the presidential election and the upcoming exchange-rate report," Jiang Shu, an analyst at China's Industrial Bank, told AFP.
The U.S. Treasury Department issues a semi-annual report on exchange-rate policies that addresses China, among other countries.


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Gillins Arrested
A Southeast Gainesville neighborhood is trying to get back to normal after a three hour police standoff. Gainesville Police surrounded the home last night after a man there said he had been shot. Police say a visitor got into an argument with the homeowner. They say the homeowners' son, 25-year-old Dominic Gillins, pulled out a gun and shot the victim from two feet away in the head. The bullet grazed the top of his head. Police say Gillins was arrested for Attempted Murder because it wasn't a "Stand Your Ground" situation.
"The victim was not posing any kind of threat that would require him to produce a handgun and defend himself by shooting. Yes, there was a disturbance at the house. Yes, the victim did come to the house to create the disturbance. We're talking about a verbal dispute that went way too far when a handgun came to play," Officer Ben Tobias (Gainesville Police Department) said.
Police surrounded the home but Gillins was already gone. He turned himself in on April 3rd. He is currently behind bars in the Alachua County Jail.
Related Stories
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- Report: Bieber had Pot, Xanax in System at Arrest
- Gainesville Fossil Trader is Arrested and Charged
- Man Arrested For Sexual Battery of a Mentally Disabled Teen
- Florida dad arrested after baby dies in hot car
- Sheriff suspends detectives for botched arrests
- Chris Rainey Dropped from Steelers After Arrest
- Before Arrest, Hernandez No Stranger to Violence
- Fla. Woman Arrested in Death of Fiance in Tennessee
- Lakeland Police officer arrested on 3 charges


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A9 TV: June 8th, 2013
ADNAN OKTAR: The real modernity is a society full of joy. Not a grey, dull, cool society. A society that is joyful, full of vigor, full of quality; this must be target of the state, the target of the government. That is why it is obligatory a ministry dealing with quality must be established.
A meek youth that is introverted, distant to arts and aesthetics is not acceptable. They should not have dull eyes;this is not the kind of youth we want. I exclude everyone but some young people are so. This is not acceptable. They have to be vivid, they have to bring joy wherever they enter. They need to present beauty with their laughter, talking, exuberance and the brightness in their eyes. This is very vital. We ask our Prime Minister to aim for such a youth, insha'Allah.
A9 TV: June 6th, 2013
ADNAN OKTAR: One of the most important goals of governments is quality. Quality is low in Turkey. Services are good but quality is low. For instance, there exists an airport but it must display aesthetics with its greenery, beauty, classiness and modernity. It is designed only to be functional. All right, buildings are strong, they do not collapse, but they are dull. They are not of high quality.
Quality must be the primal issue. Improvement in quality is vital. We are a European country; not one of the third world countries. Being sensitive to the environment is essential. We see and sense that our Prime Minister will also give primary importance to it. Insha'Allah, he will be better.
18 June 2013, Zaman
"The Turkish media does not aim to increase the quality of people"
Ekrem Dumanlı, Editor in Chief of Zaman Daily, made a statement about quality for the first time. He said that the greatest wealth of Turkey is the quality of human beings. He stated that especially in the Turkish media there are no great projects aiming at a higher quality of people. He said, "There is only one thing that will sustain this sector; quality people who are able to understand the world and Turkey accurately, and more importantly, the truth of man."


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Unfortunately, these pages are no longer accepting new posts. We are so proud of the IML community for creating such a wonderful place to exchange stories, opinions, and advice. We hope you'll check out all the great comments that have already been posted, and that we'll be able to take new submissions again in the future.
Here's what other kids had to say:
Aussiedude, you live in Australia? Are you FROM Australia or do you just live there?--TheRealmads0If there were baloons and snacks for you and you best BFF to eat and in the dance maybe a turn turn twist clap stomp turn turn stomp! With cowboy and cowgirl outfits.--EmmaGraybealbe yourself and have fun! dont let anyone bring you down. It's YOUR time to shine :)--snowbabii16just do whatever you feel like even if you might be embarrassed you will still be yourself...like CTKOOLKITTY said... be yourself dont let anyone make fun of you
--TSfan13dance and dance and dance.....lol--charlizey232bring a friend or bbring a date and act like ur self play some game [if has some] and always stay calm and have the last dance with someone u love [if your not scared]
--roseguytry to do your best wall your dancing and dance with a friend--charlizey232you don't always have to bring a date.Chill with your friends.Don't forget!
Be yourself!--WiserChildhave a date or even just be yourself
--kyrafaithhamThe key is just having fun at a dance i mean that's the point of going to a dance ,right? --purplegirl111Be yourself and dance the night away!!!--shoparificAlways be yourself! Show your moves--kaupsoccerbe more than who u usually r !!!! :) if ur afraid 2 shine... grab some friends and jam out on ur own;) at the end of the nite u will be pumped and and will be really happy you were braver than the other people were!!!!
-Peace--EVALUBAAt school dances in Australia, we have these things called "snowballs" where everybody takes a raffle ticket when they walk in and puts it in their pocket. At one point during the dance, the DJ will tell everybody to get in a ring on the dance floor. He reads the winning ticket and the winner gets to pick anybody they want to slow dance with. After about thirty seconds or so, the DJ calls out SNOWBALL and they both have to pick someone else to dance with. That keeps going on and on until everybody is in the dance. It's SO much fun and a great opportunity to get out of your comfort zone.--aussiedudeI homeschool so I don't go to a school dance.--TheRealmads0don't be afraid to ask a guy to dance--Hi5evyi love my family--tnreeseAt a school dance all you want to do is be yourself.No matter what here is a hint EVERYONE is scared too --kaupsoccerdance a lot,hang out friends and have fun!--mommy53813just be your self--Squirt190 Next Page
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talk about sloppy seconds
Did anyone else see that mexican with the black dick?
Right into her womb...nice...^^
Black dick--Mexican/white dude?
all hot cum in her cunt that would be a slimey fuck
Would love her to sit on my face and empty that cum filled hole into my face......Mmmmmmmm
I want to indulge in Cathy's cunt, that is so hot...
fucking animals
her vagina is like a black hole..
I would try to fill up her asshole see how that goes
would love to be the last guy to fuck her - the wetter the better
yeah I fucked her once.
i wonder how much time it took for her to get rid of all of this cum...
i would love to eat that cum off her
Grammy for the worst sex face in the WORLD!!!
I'm all for a gangbang and a creampie, but when the number of guys is over 20 you may have a problem... time to look into professional help. (of course I watched the whole thing and the guy with the black wristband cums like my bf so it kinda made me wonder....)
I think this is horny as hell. I'd love to dip my cock in her cummy cunt.
i dont think i could ever take that manny guys but would love to try and would love to clean her up
2:56- he ist my hero!!!
i would love to serve multiple cocks massive black monster cocks
Looks like my gfs weekend activities ;)
if thats not a full blown sex addict off the leash I dont know what is
Cathy is a plain ordinary looking woman, but her sweet cunt is gorgeous. I'd so love to squirt my ropes of jizzum into her womb.
my wife had 15 loads of cum in her cunt at the same time a lot of it drip out but i got suck all the rest out she had three different cum loads black asian and white and it all tasted great mixed with her cunt juice
Cathy has the BEST PUSSY on the net I would LOVE to fuck her and give her a creampie. Whenever my wife and I want to fuck all night we watch Cathy allll night
Bunch of limp dicks.....
I wanna be fucked like this
I can do u like this sweetheart Ill come to you and if you can take 10 12 inches and plenty of cum you're my girl
what does the member ship cost?
these chicks love being fuck by lots of dicks
imagine what members get!!!....STI???
I want love to fuck Cathy and cum in every hole of hers
I could fill up that cunt better than those guys
wish she could get better looking dudes
what a whore.. she is a champion
bet shes been poxed up a few times ill fuck her still
definitely the dirtiest girl in town
I like when my wife is full of sperm. She gets sometimes the same number of loads than Cathy
would love to join in but i am about to wank myself out
I'd love my wife to do that then i could suck her cum filled cunt.
iwish I could of ate her after
At first i was disgusted ten i got hard. Ten i got realny disgusted.
Swimming in sperm is delightful.
hmmm too bad it wasn't on her ass, farting cum is sexy!
Fantastic load at 3.23.
my turn
me too creameater. love the taste of sweet hot sauce. mmmmm. gotta get me some.
i would so drink that cum from her pussy
I wish I was that guy at 2:45 pumping her pussy after a bunch dudes just came in her. God I bet that felt amazing!
lol why did the white guy have a black man's dick? Wowwww!!
I have to agree...boring.
34 good number
A white dude with a black cock...
i kinda wanna b in on this as nasty as it is lol
she reminds me of kitty from the drew carey show
HIV@ Cathy dam girl get a dildo
love to see my wife done like that
Wish they had this sort of clips with *attractive* women. Maybe you only do this sort of thing when that's your only selling argument.
0:34 why does he have a black cock?
very god
She's such an ugly disease bag
I like the pee
i love gangbangs and i love love love creampies but she just made it look so gross...
She is fantastic! That is right broes, the condoms are boring and I love when a girl gets cum filled. Shooting on the face is going nowhere. And the best wife is one that will ask you to do this or that you can ask her to do it, but not without agreeing it is all cool. I would love to go last on her, even eat her afterwards. I have a lady that I get once in a while, and I had her over and caa lled a friend and wathed them fuck and cum in her. He left then I ate her out. She was so surpised and turned on!!
white guy black dick
i love creampie films BUT this bitch is so mutch ugly !!!!!!
would love to 69 her and eat the cum from her pussy while she sucks me off
my turn
Love it would love to lick her cunt after that session
Yea this is some nasty mess right here! She really has a problem. I never want to get that bad!
hot sex indeed!!,been dreaming about this,love it!
ive only had sex with one person my whole life but i want to do this so bad!
very hot ! for all you guys say HIV=Cathy, I'm sure they are tested. and why are you watching a video with a bunch of guys and one girl and hating on it? Some of us like this kind of thing , if you don't like it watch those one on on videos with condoms=boring . We are here for a reason , hot nasty sex. each to his or her own degree.
her husband probably likes it. maby he likes to eat his wifes cum filled pussy. i sure love it when my wife gets gangbanged and i can eat the cum out of her. i also love the feeling of a loose and spermy pussy on my cock. sloppy seconds is good but sloopy 20ths now that is godly.
Holy crap look at her finger, she is MARRIED!! Talk about cheating :L Shit.
she ain't cheating. i'm her husband and i'm right there watching all the action. the best part is having her sit that dripping pussy on my face and riding it til the come is dripping off my beard when she's through with me.
I eat her clit any day any time love it
would love to lick out that pussy
ive been in a gangbang like this,,the girl was beautiful and young. it wasnt nasty,,she would wipe herself between fucks. even put a tampon in to suck out the cumm,, she was the hottest fuck ever,,,
it sould me all that dick love yes please
see the mans face in the beginning with his green tshirt. she holds his dick like a joystick
would love my wife to be gangbanged
I want that too lol
Swampdonkey, them things are anal fistulas. Yum.
io leccherei tutta quella sborra!
Yum, Yum, Who would like to eat that lovely pie :)
hot, hot, hot ;)
very hot
look at her nails... :/
Was that a white guy with a black penis???
i want to cum in her so many times that it pours out of her nose... too bad i just blew my load... twice.
save it for mine plz
She has a clubbed thumb...I like the fluffer better..
WTF are those tags round her ass
What I fround interesting was the hispanic looking guy with the black cock.
looks like she is just trying to make another tiger woods >.>
you could also say "HPV+CATHY"
i think she probably would have had them checked b4 this would have happened....
I watched the one where she bangs 21 guys, and somehow the difference between 21 and 34 made me want to puke.
Qué Rico
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text:
Location: U.S
Member since 11/18/2009
- 1 total post
- 1 question
Questions from coquet
Consequences of Collagen Injections to Buttocks?
I have a friend who went to Mexico to gain a bigger butt and said, collagen was injected in her rear. If this is possible, what are some consequences of collagen injection? Can... READ MORE


text:
Member Since: August 22, 2012
Country: United States
Hello, I tried to use TCWORLD's library. I found out that breakout has a Phillip's driver through the libraries. However, the objects on the screen seem to roll out instead of just appear. Is there something wrong with my set-up or is that intended?
No public wish lists :(


text: The events were actually tragic this past week when a troubled drug using couple made news for a wave of gun violence. Yet, it was some of the very strange and disturbing photos and videos of this couple that seemed to make the biggest public impression of these troubled people. So let's have at it kids, let's hear your most funny, sarcastic or out there captions here.