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A VERY GOOD UNTOUCHED EARLY 19TH CENTURY SMALL-SIZE OTTOMAN TURKISH FLINTLOCK BLUNDERBUSS DAG, ca. 1820:: In overall very good untouched original flintlock condition. Extensively etched, 11", pin and band-fastened, round, "Trumpet-type", smoothbore, Silver Damascened, Persian marked, steel barrel with 1.50 caliber flared muzzle and a .50+ cal. bore. Extensively silver inlayed overall with an etched/inlayed geometric patterns and the integral barrel-tang adorned, en suite. Retains untouched brown-gray surfaces with some scattered patches of discoloration and a fine touch-hole. In original flintlock configuration with its flat, Crescent Moon engraved lockplate: a simulated European signature, a bridled powder-pan, matching gooseneck hammer and its original frizzen. Retains untouched steel surfaces with some expected patches of discoloration and light wear. In mechanically functional order and complete with its original components and both of its sidebolts. Molded and carved walnut fullstock of classic Turkish Blunderbuss "Dag" form with raised borders around the lock and sideplate; and the butt with a pronounced drop, a deeply fluted comb and a checkered wrist (worn). In very good untouched condition with generally sharp contours, smooth surfaces, 80% finish and some scattered handling marks, wear, abrasions and minor losses/chips, on the right side of the fore-end. Heavy, plain, Brass hardware: the trigger-guard with a pointed forward finial and a plain stepped bow. The screw-fastened brass buttplate, en suite with a stepped finial, two ramrod pipes—for the "false" wooden ramrod; and the rifle-type sideplate with its original loop and iron suspension-ring. In overall very good untouched original flintlock condition. The barrel with sharp contours and fine quality engraving and silver-damascening. In mechanically functional order with a strong mainspring and a fine lock. The stock with sharp contours, 80% finish and the expected signs of use and wear. A nice example of a small sized, original using-type, early 19th Century Ottoman Turkish Blunderbuss Dag, ca. 1820. For similar examples, please see G. C. Stone's: "Construction and Decoration of Arms…" . Overall length, 19 1/2".
Price: $2,250.00
A VERY GOOD+ PAIR OF IRISH SILVER MOUNTED REVOLUTIONARY WAR PERIOD "QUEEN ANN" OFFICER'S PISTOLS, by F. LORD, ca. 1760s: In overall very good+ original flintlock condition. Cannon-form, turn-off/screw-type, .57 caliber, smoothbore, 6", round, early Birmingham proofed, iron barrels with two maker's marks and one with a clear "1" marking. Nicely figured, bulbous-form, "Queen-Ann"-type, walnut grips of classic English design, having well pronounced lobed pommels, extensive rococo silver-wire inlay (65%) and full silver mounts: grotesque-mask butt-caps of classic "Pug's head" form and martial-theme central wrist-escutcheons with helmeted finials and "L.C." owner's initials. In very good original flintlock condition with sharp contours, smooth surfaces, some minor handling marks, minor abrasions and wear. Lightly engraved iron trigger-guards with an engraved barley-whirl design, on its bow. In original flintlock configuration with their original lock components, strong mainsprings, fine mechanics and smooth steel surfaces. The boxlock mechanisms/frames with finely engraved borders and scroll-engraved central panels. Each pistol signed with a "F. Lord" maker's signature and a "Dublin" address (wear to the engraving). Francis Lord of Dublin, Ire. worked (1745-1774) and was a contractor to the Board of Ordnance. (Please see E. Heer's: "Der Neue Stockel", vol. 1, pg. 726). The barrels and frames with smooth polished surfaces, good engraving and a light age-patina. A very well made and Rare Pair of Silver Mounted Revolutionary War Period Irish "Queen Ann" Officer's Pistols, ca. 1760s. Made by a recorded Dublin gunsmith; and of larger "Officer's" size. Overall length 12".
Price: $6,875.00
A FINE FEDERAL/WAR OF 1812 PERIOD AMERICAN SECONDARY MARTIAL BRASS BARREL FLINTLOCK PISTOL, ca. 1800-1810: In overall fine untouched original flintlock condition. The round, 8", smoothbore, 56 caliber, pin-fastened, unmarked, American-made?, brass, barrel with a smooth mustard age patina and a fine touch-hole: the top of the breech with an engraved leaf motif, en suite with the tang. Molded and carved American walnut full stock of typical Federal design, having a slightly bulbous and heavy, "cane-handle" type grip with simple raised carvings around lock and sideplate mortises: the grip with a fine "Tiger" striped grain-pattern. Lightly engraved American sheet brass furniture: two barrel-form ramrod pipes, an arrowhead finial trigger-guard, a flat "S" shaped sideplate, an oval wrist escutcheon and a screw-fastened butt-cap with a short rear finial. The "Redfern's" (William Redfern: active 1799-1803, in Birmingham, UK. Please see E. Heer's: "Der Neue Stockel", vol. 2, pg. 1019) marked, flat "Trade"-type lock with its original gooseneck hammer, bridle-less powder pan and a matching arrowhead finial frizzen spring: in mechanically functional order with a strong mainspring. In overall fine original flintlock condition. The barrel with smooth lightly toned brass surfaces and some light patches of discoloration. The lock with a fine dark and smooth patina with some minor patches of light discoloration/wear. Fine stock with sharp contours, 85%+ finish, some minor handling marks and expected light abrasions. Fine hardware with a nicely toned and untouched age patina, en suite with the barrel. A classic example of a War of 1812 Period American Secondary Martial flintlock Pistol, ca. 1810s. Brass-tip wooden ramrod. Overall length 14". *** Pictured in Frank E. Kuron's: "Thus Fell Tecumseh", pg. 261.
A FINE PAIR OF REVOLUTIONARY WAR PERIOD SILVER-WIRE-INLAY ENGLISH FLINTLOCK TURN-OFF PISTOLS, ca. 1775:In overall fine+, original flintlock condition. Round, 2 1/2", Turn-off, cannon-form, baluster-turned, smoothbore, .45 caliber, iron barrels with two early Birmingham black-powder proof marks, on their undersides. Finely engraved, central-hammer boxlock, flintlock mechanisms with "KING" maker's signatures: sliding trigger-guard safeties and hound's-tooth-engraved central hammers and frizzens: one hammer with a nearly undetectable old repair. Both in mechanically fine condition with strong mainsprings and frizzen springs: functional safeties. The sides of the frames with matching borders, finely engraved scrolls and clear maker's signatures. Smooth, steel gray surfaces with sharp engraving, 85% finish and very light patches of discoloration. Engraved iron trigger-guards with matching smooth, steel-gray surfaces and etched bows. Nicely figured, bag-shaped, walnut grips with some minor handling marks, sharp contours and 85% finish. Extensively inlayed with silver wire scrolls of classic Georgian design (99%). In overall fine+ condition. The barrels with good bores, smooth surfaces and a fine patina. The frames with sharp engraving, clear markings and matching surfaces. Very Fine grips without cracks or significant blemishes: retain virtually all of their silver wire. A very nice Pair of Revolutionary War Period English Boxlock "Queen Ann" Pistols, ca. 1775. Overall length, 8".
Price: $3,875.00
A COLONIAL PERIOD QUEEN ANN TURN-OFF PISTOL BY JAMES FREEMAN, ca. 1715: In overall fine original flintlock condition with a smooth and even age patina overall. The round, 5 1/2", cannon-form, turn-off, smoothbore, .61 caliber, iron barrel with a Crown "IF" (James Freeman) maker's mark and two London pre-1740 proof marks. The original flintlock mechanism with rounded gooseneck hammer with a hound's-tooth border engraving and a "James Freeman" signature, for James Paul Freeman of London (w. 1705- 1720 and was known for his silver-mounted breech-loading pistols: please see H. Blackmore, Gunmakers of London 1350-1850, pg. 96). The frizzen-back and frame with matching decoration and smooth surfaces: some very light scattered salt & peppering. Sliding iron trigger-guard: acts as a safety. Embossed silver Mounts include the Grotesque mask butt-cap, the rococo-scroll sideplate and the vacant shield wrist escutcheon. Burl walnut, Queen Ann type grip with a molded bulbous butt and relief carving around the lock, barrel tang and sideplate. In overall fine condition. The barrel with smooth surfaces and some very light pitting and discoloration. The lock/mechanism with all original components, having matching surfaces and clear engraving. Fine walnut grip with some very minor handling marks, 85% original finish and a small period-repaired crack above the sideplate. A very nice example of a Breech-loading Flintlock pistol from the Colonial Period. Made by one of the most prominent London Gunsmiths of the 18th century, James P. Freeman. Overall length, 12".
Price: $5,875.00
A FINE QUALITY "SILVER" MOUNTED TURKISH PERCUSSION CONVERTED FLINTLOCK HOLSTER PISTOL, ca. 1830/50: In overall very good lightly cleaned condition. Mid-18th century Italian-made, band-fastened, .65 caliber, smoothbore, 11", iron barrel with a "L. LAZARINO" maker's signature, on its breech-top: the signature for the noted "Lazarino" family of 17th-18th Century, Italian, barrel makers. Lightly etched/chiseled, rounded, Italian-made, sidelock (Flintlock) mechanism, en suite with a worn "SCADALA?" maker's signature with a raised and rounded, banana-form lockplate. Bolster Converted to Percussion, ca. 1850 and retains vestiges of the related "flintlock component" holes, along with its sculpted Percussion hammer with flat beveled surfaces. In mechanically functional order with smooth, steel-gray surfaces with a strong mainspring and good timing. Molded, carved and silver-wire-inlayed, figured, walnut fullstock of classic Ottoman Turkish form. A pronounced bulbous butt with a long slender grip and the forestock made with a deeply floral embossed silver-sheet/muzzle-band with a sweated, "false" silver ramrod--- typical of many Turkish Firearms. The stock with some scattered handling marks, abrasions, minor chips and retains 75%+ finish with relief carved floral accents, under the forestock and around the barrel-tang. Silver wire inlayed wrist with an embossed silver escutcheon. Of classic Ottoman form with deeply embossed and chased silver mounts with Baroque floral vine scroll decorations: The stirrup type butt-cap with a pronounced floral type pommel-cap and smooth roped borders. A matching silver trigger-guard with an embossed silver trigger, a floral forward finial and a deeply embossed bow. The openwork vine scroll sideplate with embossed floral details and both of its sidebolts: minor crack. Baluster turned "ramrod" pipe with etched finial and the two (2) deeply etched and embossed barrel-bands/capucines of classic Turkish minaret form. In overall very good clean condition and converted from Flintlock to Percussion, ca. 1850. The barrel and lock with matching bright steel-gray surfaces with some patches of discoloration and fine pitting. Very good quality stock with some scattered handling marks, carvings, expected signs of age/use and 75%+ finish. Very fine quality, deeply embossed (in classic Baroque floral-vine-scrolls) silver hardware with chased accents; and some light wear, handling, tarnish and minor damages. A fine quality example of an Ottoman Turkish Percussion Converted Silver Mounted Flintlock Holster Pistol, ca. 1830/50. Overall length, 17". For similar examples, please see G. C. Stone's: "A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms & Armor", pg. 506.
A FINE QUALITY TURKISH FLINTLOCK HOLSTER PISTOL, ca. 1840: In In overall very good untouched original flintlock condition. The octagonal-to-round, wire-band-fastened, .67 caliber, smoothbore, 11 1/2", iron barrel with chiseled floral scrolls (lightly worn), a raised sighting rib and an engraved barrel tang, en suite. Etched and engraved Flintlock mechanism with a flat, beveled, banana-form, lockplate with its matching gooseneck hammer and grooved-face frizzen: of very good quality Near Eastern/Ottoman Turkish manufacture with generally sharp, untouched, contours, fine engraving and some light wear: the mechanism is frozen and will not release from the "rest" position. Extensively carved walnut fullstock of typical Ottoman form, having a pronounced bulbous butt and extensive floral/vine scroll relief carving overall. Of classic form, Turkish design, as made with an integrally carved, "false", wooden ramrod. Finely etched and embossed brass mounts: of very good quality and in emulation of European style. The stirrup type butt-cap with a pronounced pommel and etched and embossed vine and floral scrolls. Matching trigger-guard with acanthus leaf finials and a finely etched bow. Two barrel-form "ramrod pipes", an embossed rifle type triangular sideplate (both side-bolts replaced) and a pierced and etched wrist escutcheon. In overall very good, untouched, original flintlock condition. The barrel and lock with matching, dark, gunmetal-gray surfaces and some light patches of discoloration, surface oxidation and expected signs of use/wear. Fine quality, dark colored Turkish walnut fullstock with light signs of use, some handling marks and much finish. The hardware with a fine attention to the etched and embossed details and finely toned brass surfaces with a rich "mustard" age-patina. A very nice example of a nice quality Turkish Flintlock Holster Pistol, ca. 1840. Overall length, 18 1/4".
A VERY GOOD UNTOUCHED WAR OF 1812/NAPOLEANIC WAR PERIOD PATTERN 1802 "LONG" SEA SERVICE PISTOL, ca. 1805: In overall very good, untouched, original flintlock configuration. Round, iron, .56 caliber, smoothbore, 12 1/4" baluster-turned barrel with Board of Ordnance Govt. proof marks at the breech and a Crown acceptance mark on the tang. Regulation Pattern walnut fullstock with an effaced Storekeeper's mark on the right face of the grip -- behind the raised-carved beaver tail apron. The lock of standard P. 1802 design with a flat, thread engraved reinforced hammer and lockplate. The lock-face with an effaced Crown/"GR" and Crown/Broad Arrow govt. ownership mark, beneath the powder-pan: the tail of lock an effaced "TOWER" marking. Full brass, regulation Pattern furniture: the heavy bulbous butt-cap with a screw-fastened finial, the trigger-guard with a raised hazelnut finial, a single barrel-type ramrod pipe and the flat sideplate with tail: Crown marked belt-hook. In overall very good untouched original flintlock condition. The iron surfaces with a smooth, deep russet-brown, age patina with fine surfaces and some isolated patches of light discoloration/pitting. The lock with original components, working period effaced markings and very good mechanics-- the removed Govt. markings, likely indicate this piece was captured; and for fear of British reprisal, the Govt. lock/stock markings were removed. In mechanically functioning order with a strong mainspring. Fine stock with 90% finish, scattered light abrasions, two old paint specks and some minor handling marks. The hardware with choice smooth and untouched brown-mustard surfaces. Working period brass tipped wooden ramrod, en suite. Overall length 19 1/2". A very nice Board Ordnance Pattern 1802 Sea Service Pistol, with evidence of possible American capture/use. Made during the 1812/Napoleanic War period, ca. 1805.


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The Russian connection: See all our coverage | Read about our investigation
As Bruce notes below, George Piro, an FBI agent who was Saddam's sole interrogator, will be on Sixty Minutes this Sunday:
Saddam Hussein initially didn't think the U.S. would invade Iraq to destroy weapons of mass destruction, so he kept the fact that he had none a secret to prevent an Iranian invasion he believed could happen. The Iraqi dictator revealed this thinking to George Piro, the FBI agent assigned to interrogate him after his capture.
Saddam still wouldn't admit he had no weapons of mass destruction, even when it was obvious there would be military action against him because of the perception he did. Because, says Piro, "For him, it was critical that he was seen as still the strong, defiant Saddam. He thought that [faking having the weapons] would prevent the Iranians from reinvading Iraq," he tells Pelley.
He also intended and had the wherewithal to restart the weapons program. "Saddam] still had the engineers. The folks that he needed to reconstitute his program are still there," says Piro. "He wanted to pursue all of WMD to reconstitute his entire WMD program." This included chemical, biological and nuclear weapons, Piro says.
I've long believed claims about how "Saddam was bluffing!" and "Saddam was going to restart his WMD programs the second our back was turned!" were bogus. (For instance, see here and here.)
I may have to reevaluate. However, based on just the Sixty Minutes teaser, I remain skeptical. Here's why:
1. The US recorded all the interrogations of Saddam. I have a hard time believing if there were sections that would make Bush look good, we wouldn't have seen them.
2. There's no evidence for any of this. Despite what CBS says, of course, Saddam "admitted" over and over and over again that Iraq had no WMD. Iraq said it in dozens of UN declarations, and Saddam personally said it on Iraqi national TV and in an interview with Dan Rather. And there's no indication he took any specific action to bluff the US or Iran in some way; on the contrary.
The CIA Duelfer report is also extremely vague about any direct statements of intent by Saddam about his future intentions. The most it provides is this: "During a custodial interview, Saddam, when asked whether he would reconstitute WMD programs after sanctions were lifted, implied that Iraq would have done what was necessary." This interview was almost certainly conducted by Piro. Meanwhile, the Duelfer report also provides direct statements by underlings that Saddam repeatedly told them Iraq would NOT reconstitute its WMD programs if the UN followed through on its declared intention to create a mideast "zone free from weapons of mass destruction and all missiles for their delivery."
So it's possible is Piro isn't being honest here. (My antennae quiver at the fact the first journalist he spoke to is Ronald Kessler, author of embarrassing hagiographies of both George and Laura Bush.) It's also possible Saddam was not honest with Piro. You can easily imagine Saddam would want to claim he had some kind of master plan, rather than accidentally fucking up to the degree his country was invaded.
3. It's also possible Piro is overstating something real. Saddam might have acted in some minor way at different times to obstruct inspections, with the idea this would make Iran believe Iraq still had something, while trying to come clean at other times.
In any case, I'll definitely watch the Sixty Minutes segment. Sadly, though, the reality behind itwhatever it iswon't matter. Given the way the America works, the Piro interview will establish for all time that Saddam was bluffing, was itching to get nukes, etc.

subset: commoncrawl


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I think the giants should leave kiwi at lb, he has played better then most expected and do the giants really need to fill another hole at lb.
I thought he did well filling running lanes and taking on fullbacks. I also noticed he played DE on passing downs during the season.
Mathis is the answer at SLB!


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$ 49.99
This stuffed burger plush toy is fun on a bun! He greets everyone with a big beefy hug and makes new friends wherever he goes. Bubba the plush hamburger loves entertaining and frequently throws parties at Picnic Palace. This is the perfect plush burger accessory for any true cheeseburger lover.
This extra large Cheeseburger plush can be used as a pillow or even a cushion to sit onto give your living room some extra character.


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A strategic reset for Sino-US relations
Lanxin Xiang says Asia and the Pacific will come to rue the lack of a regional security model that builds Sino-US trust, and now's the time to mull all options - including that of joint sovereignty
Related topics
Hugh White, a leading foreign affairs expert in Australia, has made a daring proposal for establishing a Sino-US condominium - that is, joint sovereignty of a territory - of some sort in Asia and the Pacific. His argument is both old and new.
On the one hand, it is clearly based on a realpolitik concept derived from traditional theories on international relations. On the other, it reflects the obvious power shift that is taking place in the region. The existing hegemon in the region is still the United States, but its power and influence have declined in recent years, after having squandered its resources and prestige on a "war on terror", to the extent that its strategic interest has to be sustained by an old-fashioned alliance system. Meanwhile, China's rise is too fast and unpredictable; the US has enormous difficulties just grasping this reality, not to mention effectively dealing with it.
Washington and Beijing are escalating their diplomatic competition all over the world, from the South China Sea to Latin America and the African continent. They are also giving priority to military preparedness, so there is hardly any meeting of the minds. Thus, a fresh view from a third party might be useful.
White suggests that the Americans are heading in a wrong direction by reviving a cold-war-style military alliance against a potential challenger. A corrective policy should be to forge a kind of Sino-US condominium, which has the advantage of offering a platform for the two to manage their differences and avoid conflict.
At first glance, White's proposal may sound harsh, as it harks back to the old days of European power politics in a struggle for mastery. But his proposal may indeed provide a way to avert a potentially disastrous military confrontation now brewing in the region.
Neither the US nor China seems to be able to find a new path to "reset" their rapidly deteriorating strategic relationship. Continuing on an old track makes no sense any more. The bilateral strategic and economic dialogue never really touches upon the question of how to build true strategic trust. Military-to-military communication is so poor between Washington and Beijing that any misreading of the other's mind during a crisis may well escalate into hostilities.
Even Henry Kissinger, the ever-optimistic thinker of the Sino-US relationship, has turned sour lately. Kissinger envisioned the two forming a "Pacific community", a kind of a US-China condominium at a global, not just regional, level. Now that this possibility has become remote, he seems to be recognising the potential for a conflict.
Instead of forging active global co-operation between Washington and Beijing, we now have a regionalised and militarised local competition at all levels - diplomatic, political and strategic. Nationalism is on the rise in both countries. The nasty row over a Chinese Olympic swimmer is just the tip of the iceberg of mutual resentment.
What we are witnessing is an example of the blind leading the blind: they are not aware of the danger of falling into an abyss, for if the political elite in both countries begin to adopt the view that a contest for supremacy between China and the United States is inevitable, Asia and the Pacific region is destined to head towards another cold war, one which no one can be sure will not turn hot in the future.
At the same time, China is also struggling to understand the meaning and the impact of its own rapid rise, making the inevitable trials and errors on the way towards world-power status.
The regional future is uncertain and unpredictable and, for the first time since 1945, the complacency about security and prosperity is put in doubt. In this context, White's proposal, though reflecting a distinctive Australian view, may not be as outmoded and naïve as it appears. It could serve as a wake-up call for leaders not only in America and China, but also in other regional capitals. It is time for serious discussions on how to avoid conflict.
Many would argue that such an approach would sacrifice the interests of small countries. But small players in the region have always faced a terrible dilemma: whether or not the elephants are fighting, the grass remains the vulnerable party in the relationship. The solution that served small countries in the past was a cold but not hot war. This is why many regional players welcomed the US "return to Asia". But the problem remains: what if a cold war turns hot? This will serve no one's interest.
The Asia-Pacific region has most of the strategic hot spots in the world, yet regional leaders have long been complacent and no serious collective security system has been attempted. Many players in the region had in the past hitched a free ride on the US-led cold war system towards prosperity, but this happy experience can no longer be repeated.
Lanxin Xiang is professor of international history and politics at the Graduate Institute of International and Development Studies in Geneva
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Besides the full requirements laid out in the degree plan, the Mathematics B.S. also includes:
Other Requirements
A student must maintain a 2.0 GPA in order to graduate. In addition, no mathematics or computer science course in which a student receives a grade less than C will count toward the major.
Cumulative Credit Hour Requirements
In addition to the course requirements for the General Education and Program Curriculums, a student must also satisfy the following cumulative credit hour requirements. In particular, transfer students should be aware of these degree requirements when developing their plan of study.
- Hours to Degree: at least 124 hours are needed to graduate with either a Mathematics or Mathematics Licensure BS degree.
- Hours at Senior College: at least 62 hours applied to the major must be earned from a senior college.
- Hours at 300-level: at least 45 hours must be a result of taking courses at the 300-level or above.
- Hours in Major Area: at least 12 hours in the major area must be from the University of Southern Mississippi.
- Hours at USM: The last 31 hours of coursework must be earned from the University of Southern Mississippi


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Wedding decorations, party supplies, home décor & craft supplies at 20-70% off. Save On Crafts brings you classic and trending fashions.
Ikebana Kenzan Metal Pin Frogs with brass pins 3" round.
7/8" tall. Weight 1 lb.
Known by many different names Pin Frog, Flower Frog, Flower Spikes, Needle Holder and Kenzan it is a must for flower arranging enthusiasts.
Porte-fleurs a epigniles - Sostendor de Flor
Use them to hold flower stems in place. Pin frogs are especially useful for flower arranging in shallow containers but also work great for in deeper containers as well.
You can also secure to bottom of floral container with floral clay for extra stability.
See all the kenzans, pin frogs


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Home › Forums › Gear Forums › Gear (General) › Winter Middle layer for Backpacking/skiing
Jan 16, 2012 at 12:08 pm #1284204
So Ive been slowly replacing gear this season since Ive either grown out of or worn out what I was using before and I am wanting to get some good quality equipment that will last me a while and be versatile/multiple use if at all possible. But frankly Im fairly new to the lightweight backpacking so Im looking for a little advice.
The goal here is a middle layer that I can wear backpacking and skiing in the winter with one special case that I will get to shortly. Im sure this may limit my options as one is pretty physically demanding (heat generating) while the other is much less but Im sure there is something I can find that will give me both.
First what I have/use currently:
Base layer:
UnderArmour ColdGear Long sleeve Compression Mock – had this for several seasons now and love it.
Hot Chilly Skin Midweight bottom – picked it up on clearence recently, used it a few times and love it. Very light but still warm, hardly remember its there. Probably isnt the best on the market but it was very cheap, its not too heavy(both in material and actual weight) and compacts quite nicely (smaller than soda can) so I fell that role is filled well.
Outer Layer:
Burton Snowboard jacket shell – Had this for several seasons, I know its heavier than one might use when going full LW packing but remember this is ski gear as well. Its very water resistant/proof, has vents for cooling and plenty of great pockets for small items that I always try to have with me no matter what.
Some generic snow pants, cant recall brand but they work fine.
So what Ive mentioned so far has been enough for most of what I do, especially if actively hiking (in fact it was almost too hot when this weekend when backpacking in ~30degree weather) So the main thing Im wanting for the base layer top is something for when at camp that will help with the warmth from just sitting around idle. The second main thing Im looking for are some good pants that can be worn under the snow pants if needed for extra warmth and/or be used by themselves during the spring/summer for hiking and backpacking. So being zipoff is a big requirement.
The last thing Im looking for which is semi-related is suggestions on sleeping bag liner. I apologize but I always mix up the terms for sleep type (warm sleeper vs cold) but I prefer to sleep in colder weather and I generate quite a bit of body heat so something that is only 20' for someone else could easily be a 10' for me or even colder depending on what im wearing. So what Im looking for is a nice light weight liner that will get me another ~10' with my sleep system nothing major just something a little extra since im expecting to be in -10 – 0'F nights coming up in the next cpl months and would rather improve the bag instead of wearing a bunch of clothing at night.
Price isnt much of a restriction but Im hoping/expecting that each of these items is in the <$100 which I feel is reasonable. If its great quality and built to last Im ok with stretching the budget some. (and thats per piece, not total). Well Hopefully this is enough information to get some suggestions but if you need clarification please ask and thank you for the help :)Jan 16, 2012 at 12:38 pm #1825387
Chris BowmanMember
@jcbowmanLocale: ORF
I just got back from a ski trip. Temps were around 15 degrees with a decent wind and I was fine on the lifts with an icebreaker 260 base, MH monkeyman fleece and a light shell with no insulation in it. I've used it for backpacking before and it good, just a little bulky and heavy.Jan 16, 2012 at 1:37 pm #1825412
Question 1:
I'm not so sure you need a middle base layer. Typically heavier weight base layers are quite heavy for the warmth they provide.
I use three upper body pieces in the winter:
1 – Thin long sleeve base layer
2 – Shell jacket
3 – Puffy jacket
When hiking/touring etc, I normally wear base layer + shell, and then when I'm stopped (meals, summits etc) I toss the puffy on over top of all that. If it's really warm or I'm really working hard, I ditch the shell and just wear the base layer.
In the winter, you're usually either working hard & warm, or stopped and getting cold quickly. This is why a nice puffy that can be worn over everything else is great. It's also easier to use than an extra mid-layer, because you can just keep the shell on instead of taking it on & off to put the mid layer on/off.
There's some affordable puffy options from Montbell, GoLite and First Ascent (when they have sales on). Montbell sells the Alpine Light parka (what I have) for $195, which you can find on sale for $150. GoLite has the Roan on sale right now (half off) for $149 and you probably should pick one up:
Question 2:
Warm, zip-off, go under your snow pants and can be worn by themselves in the summer? It sounds like you might be better off getting two different pairs of pants. Grab some tights (on sale for $55 at GoLite) or fleece pants (REI) for under your snow pants and then get yourself some nice summer pants. Get down pants (GooseFeet) if you really want warm for the winter (~$130).
Question 3:
Wear the puffy mentioned in #1, maybe add the tights/fleece/down pants mentioned in #2 and if you're really still cold add some GooseFeet down socks.Jan 16, 2012 at 2:06 pm #1825426
I guess I was a little vague on question #2. I dont need warm zip off pants I would like some pants that primarily work best for the spring/summer but are lightweight/not too warm because 1) Im a warm bodied person so I dont need that much warmth, and sure as heck not in the summer and 2) if they can fit under snow pants that would be ideal. thank you for the answers so far. the MH Monkey (more specifically the lite) has caught my eye but your right it does seem a bit heavy. I really like the fact that it seems to be not too thick so it would fit underneath a shell or wind breaker and the thumb holes are a major plus for me as thats one place that is 'unguarded' while skiing. I am concerned that it would be too heavy for me.
And if Im understanding your suggestion it is to get heavier pants/jacket and just wear them in the bag instead of getting a liner?
I guess I should emphasize how 'warm bodied' I am lol. Generally the outside temps have to be <45' (no wind) before it 'feels cold' in just a golf shirt and jeans. Sleeping I generally have a pair of gym shorts (no shirt) and normal bed sheet for anything 60'+ and I sleep just fine. At the camp I was at last weekend when we were packing up it was ~30' and in the layers mentioned in my first post with the exception of jeans instead of snow pants I actually got quite hot even with the shell unzipped and the vents open while hiking a short (<2mile) distance through a bit of snow (2-6") with mild elevation gain.
Only a few times have I felt truly cold when skiing but it took wind chill in the -10 to -20s to do that so I dont need anything super heavy.Jan 16, 2012 at 2:12 pm #1825431
"And if Im understanding your suggestion it is to get heavier pants/jacket and just wear them in the bag instead of getting a liner?"
I guess what I'm saying is get the upper and lower body layers that you need, and then wear those to bed as well and hopefully you won't need a liner to stay warm.Jan 16, 2012 at 2:31 pm #1825435
Stephan DoyleMember
1) Midlayer: how warm do you need this to be? A fleece is great if you're going to be wearing it while active, but that same fleece won't keep you warm sitting around at 10º.
2) Pants: so many choices here. Patagonia makes good ones. I don't think anyone does pants better than Arc'Teryx, but they don't have zip-offs (I like the Ramparts for sun protection – more comfortable than shorts in the mountains). Regardless, I think you're better off with some cheap tights when you next extra warmth in the winter, fleece if you need LOTS of warmth.
3) Liners are silly. YMMV.Jan 16, 2012 at 2:46 pm #1825438
@dan Ok thats what I thought. In regards to the Puffy jackets I guess Ill have to go try some on because they seem like they would be very warm. Also how much space do they take up when compressed? I had a down vest a long time ago that I used for camping that had a stuff sack but compared to its size it really didnt compress too well. Something with a removal hood would be ideal I think, my head doesn't get that cold and I have a light fleece beanie if I need a little extra (or a helmet when skiing)
@stephen, ok then, I just saw liners mentioned in several threads while browsing the site so it seemed like a good solution but I wasnt dead set on it or anything. No big deal. The more I learn the better.
And if the pants are light enough that the ability to zipoff isnt necessary then that is fine since Id prefer long pants + no suncscreen then having to slather that all over half my body. Looking for something that is lighter than jeans (terrible I know, lol) but still actually pants (ie, not long underwear or a base-layer, etc) and to emphasize again, the pants do NOT need to be warm. They need to fit under snow pants so that I can take off said snow pants without walking around in long underwear, not because I need more warmth. I apologize for that being unclear but that was the 'exception' I referred to originally.
For the upper body middle layer, warmth is the bigger factor unlike the pants. I would say something just on the lower end of fleece would work. It doesn't need to be extremely warm because even with just the shell most of the wind is blocked and the underarmour keeps the cold off my skin so something to fill in the air gap is all. If there is something like the MH Monkey Man suggested earlier but a bit lighter material would be the best I think.Jan 16, 2012 at 3:31 pm #1825455
a fleece layer like Patagonia's R1 makes a great mid-layer when moving (layered over a thin base layer), but totally inadequate for wear around camp in the winter
for temps down to 0 your going to need a pretty substantial down or syn insulating parka
for skiing you could probably get by w/ a lighter syn parka (I wouldn't recommend down for use while skiing) something like a Patagonia Micropuff (maybe even a Nanopuff)- neither of these however would be adequate for camping down to 0 w/ just a base layer and shell
what you could do is purchase a light to mid weight syn jacket/parka for skiing and then a mid weight down jacket and combine the two for camping- either piece could probably fit very well into a 3 season scheme as wellJan 16, 2012 at 4:00 pm #1825465
The fill power of down essentially tells you how much the down will compress. 800 fill power down, means 1oz (by weight) puffs up to 800 cubic inches. If you get lower end down (ie. 500-600) then it won't compress nearly as small as 800-900 FP down (since it didn't puff up nearly as much in the first place). You don't want to abuse your down by cranking into a golf ball sized wad in a compression sack, but you can compress high end down a lot without damaging it.
The Montbell Alpine Light parka that I use easily fits into it's nalgene bottle sized stuff sack, and I could probably take it to 1/2 to 2/3rds of that size if I used a roll top sack. I like roll top sacks rather than compression sacks, because they're lighter and it's not so easy to over compress stuff. They also are normally waterproof.
You can certainly do without a hood, but it's sometimes really nice to have both a hood and a warm beanie when it's howling on a summit. It depends what you're going to be up to though.Jan 16, 2012 at 4:45 pm #1825486
Dale WambaughBPL Member
@dwambaughLocale: Pacific Northwest
First of all, what do you call a mid-layer? I think of something like a "heavy base layer" like Patagonia R1 or Cap4 or Power Stretch, on up to 200W fleece. If you are talking camp/belay use with minimal activity, then I think of puffy layers on the order of Patagonia Micro Puff, First Ascent Igniter and on up to lofty down stuff.
If you are thinking of a thin insulated jacket, I think the lighter insulated jackets like the Mont Bell Thermawrap or Patagonia Nano Puff don't deliver much: you get a wind shell and a light insulation layer, which a windshirt with hooded R1 or Power Stretch layer would meet or exceed— with more versatility. I would use one of those hoodies with a puffy vest for the next step colder and that is my recommendation for you to try with your ski shell. I prefer synthetic, but for camp use and no rain, down can be very light, compact to carry and warm. A vest is just nice to have on day hikes and cool summer mornings when you want just a bit more over your base layer until you get moving.
For zip-off pants on the light side, look at the Outdoor Research Equinox Convert pants. They are light without being too fragile and they are free of cargo pockets– just plain front/rear pockets, so less on the Inspector Gadget side of things. Ex Officio Amphi Pants are good, and the REI Sahara pants are excellent in hot weather, but much more on the baggy side. I'm not up to current models on Mountain Hardwear's pants, but their track record has been good for me.Jan 17, 2012 at 2:21 pm #1825897
@dan & Dale
I appreciate your responses and let me see if I can elaborate a bit.
First off I thank you for the down explanation I had long forgotten the explanation of down 'weight' so that clears up that question.
For the compression of the parka the size of a Nalgene works for me just fine. The ones the size of a 2liter soda are what I was wanting to avoid. For the hood my ski shell has a hood on it with ties/drawstrings that allow me to zip it up so nothing but my ski goggles are exposed (even with a helmet) so that was the 2nd reason for not needing/wanting a second hood on the puff jacket but if there is one that is removable then Id consider it. My head doesn't get that cold and it only takes a little covering to warm my body, hence the beanie to trap in heat and the shell to stop the wind/weather. But again I will keep it in mind as I think to really pick this I'm going to have to go into a store (there is an REI flagship nearby) and try some things on to see for sure.
@dale, What I am considering a 'middle layer' is something that would be worn underneath a shell jacket to provide the additional warmth needed during more sedentary activity such as around a camp, cooking/siting/setting up tent, etc. Said middle layer would expected to fit underneath a shell, over my 'base layer' if needed without making me look like the kid from 'A Christmas Story'. ie, not restrictive. While I like the idea of the puff jacket option something is telling me that it will be much more warmth than I might need without going into a thinner option which would hinder its versatility in colder temps. I do however like the idea of the down jackets for the space saving reasons, meaning it could be small enough to easily stuff into a day pack for 1day hikes in case the weather can turn bad which it sometimes can do in the mtns.
So far I'm liking the Cap4 the best out of the options thus far. Seems to be just about the right style I would prefer. The full zip front for easy removal, not too thick so wouldn't be 'too' warm and can be packed somewhat small and fit under the shell easily. Thumb loops would be all it needs to bee 100% perfect IMO. As for the pants I'm liking the REI Sahara's, especially since there seems to be a sale on them locally atm and I do prefer the cargo style a bit more.
Personally if the weather is anything but clear I will always have the ski shell on over whatever else I may be wearing. Its very resistant to the elements, even wind and heavy rain (I wear it often on a day to day basis).
And I haven't yet found where to edit my locale (perhaps I must be a paid member) but I live in Colorado so in case that alters your thoughts any.Jan 17, 2012 at 5:26 pm #1825955
base layer + cap 4 + shell = not very warm for sedentary duty around camp at freezing (let alone anything below)
cap 4 makes a nice mid-layer for on the go stuff when it's cold, but for winter activities where you may stop, your not going to get by very well w/o a warm insulating layer- down or synJan 17, 2012 at 6:25 pm #1825986
Is your ski shell insulated or just water/wind protection? If it has insulation (they often do) then this definitely alters your system a lot (and our recommendations).
Now if your shell is not insulated then I agree with mike, a cap 4, sitting around, at night, will be miserably cold for your expected -10-0F nights. Sun and movement make huge differences in warmth levels and sitting around camp they both disappear.
There's a reason why people always seem to have a big puffy michelin man jacket when snow camping in winter, because they're pretty much required.Jan 17, 2012 at 6:50 pm #1825996
Randy MartinBPL Member
@randalmartinLocale: Colorado
Echoing what a number of others have said. A heavier base layer with shell is great while active and then a puffy jacket to put on top of all that for stops and camp. My personal setup is the Patagonia R1 Hoody for my baselayer, Mammut Ultimate Hoody for shell and First Ascent Igniter Jacket for insulation that goes on top of all of that for stops and camp.
Their are plenty of good choices for all three of those layers. Sounds like the piece your missing is the outer warm layer. The point in winter is you don't want to be shuffling middle layers. So it doesn't make sense to be looking for a mid layer that sometimes will be on and when your active will be too much warmth and have you pulling it off. That's why the outer layer (like a Belay jacket) is perfect. You don't have to shuffle in/out of other layers to manage your warmth.Jan 18, 2012 at 8:24 am #1826166
Hmm well I do see what you are saying and I get it but based on the camp last weekend, since I didn't have a middle layer to speak of (a t-shirt over the UnderArmour) and sitting in camp in the 20s-30s was not cold at all. I even took off my gloves at several times because I just wasn't that cold. I will admit that my experience in camping in very cold weather is limited but being out in it skiing and for other things isn't nearly as limited.
That being said my next expected time to be camping (in what is hopefully 0'F) is early next month. Before that time I will try to get out some for an overnight-er or two to really evaluate how I feel in different temperatures. Sounds to me like I will have to experiment a little to find what works best for me.
Currently on the low end(per yall's recommendations) I see something like a cap 4 or possibly a cap3 or an R1 hoody. With going up to a First Ascent Igniter(which I really liked) or the Montbell Alpine or similar.
As for shuffling layers I don't expect to be doing that much. I retain body heat fairly well(maybe too well, lol) if Ive been doing anything strenuous so I don't expect to be wearing any of these options while on the move, only when stopping at camp at the end of the day (probably not even lunch unless its extremely cold) so I really don't expect that to be some big inconvenience but it's a valid point
Looks like I have some testing to do still. Also the ski shell is just a shell, no more insulation than a cpl of t-shirts would give so its basically just a heavy duty wind/water shield and it has a hood.
@randy, It has to be very cold for me to need more warmth than what I listed above I just generate that much heat. The hike in that night(5-7pm) it was in the low 20s with about a 30mph wind. With just the gear mentioned in the first post I was totally comfortable so I wont be replacing those original layers with anything extra or my brain would boil while on the move. But I do see some validity to replacing the shell with a puff when I am at camp to get me the extra warmth needed w/o swapping layers as you describe. Now I would just concerned about durability/weather resistance of the puff jackets in that regard. or should I expect to need the ski shell on top if the weather is really bad?Jan 18, 2012 at 9:13 am #1826202
Kenny R.Member
@k1t0r5Locale: Florida
I think you're underestimating just how much colder you'll be sitting around sedentary at 0* compared to how you are while moving around at 0*. If you try sitting around camp with just an underarmour baselayer, a cap4 or cap3, and a hardshell in 0* temps, you will be very cold. If you're trying to stretch a sleep system down to those temps along with the inadequate clothing, then you're looking at a potentially dangerous situation.
I've learned this the hard way. I'm fine in just a light baselayer and windshirt while hiking as long as the temps are above 0. The second I stop though, it takes a myriad of clothing to keep myself warm. Much more than I ever would've expected before camping in winter. Sure, you may be more 'warm-blooded' than myself and most others, but that doesn't mean you can get away with completely inadequate clothing.
Do an experiment for yourself. One night put on your baselayer, a cheap fleece hoody (approximating the warmth of a cap3 or cap4), and your shell along with whatever else you'd plan on wearing while at camp. Try sitting on your front porch for about 3-4 hours in single digits and see how you feel.
In my opinion, it would be reckless to go into 0* temps without a substantial amount of down or synthetic insulation. If you get too hot… unzip your shell and/or jacket to vent heat! Sure you'd probably survive in those temps with less, but what happens if the temps drop below what you were expecting? With no significant insulating jacket and a bag not rated for those temps (liner or not), you're suddenly looking at a problem.Jan 18, 2012 at 11:27 am #1826269
I completely agree that just going out into the backwoods without so much as trying the gear locally is a terrible idea without knowing what to expect and I will certainly be doing so before hand. I just have a hard time grasping this extreme need for warmth based on my experiences in the outdoors in general. I am also fully aware that the shell alone doesn't provide any warmth (I know you didn't say that, just bringing it up) because in just a t shirt or golf shirt standing out in the cold weather during the day is not enough warmth but I have found the difference with just the under Armour to be a massive change in acceptable temperatures. What this has slowly developed into is perhaps the need for just two pieces instead of one. Something in the cap 3/4 area for when its 0'+ (that is, isnt expected to get below that or close to it) and a good puff for the extreme cold (<0') since one would be too little or too much for the temps in between.Jan 18, 2012 at 12:28 pm #1826295
hike your own hike they say :)
I will add that if I were a paid (or unpaid for that matter) guide and someone were to go out w/ me for a winter trip (heck even most shoulder season trips) in Montana, I would have to politely refuse if their clothing only included a shell, base layer and light fleece (cap 4, R1, 100 weight fleece, etc) topJan 18, 2012 at 12:43 pm #1826304
You keep confusing the issue. No one is arguing that you can stay warm with fairly little insulation while hiking. Nearly everyone can, I'm particularly cold intolerant and have no problem staying warm while on the move, often overheating.
The point of everyone's advice is that when sitting still for any period of time two things happen. Your metabolism slows down (ie you stop producing as much heat) and any heat you have already generated begins to be lost to the environment. There is nothing you can do about the first event aside from increasing your physical exertion. The second concern is why we have insulation and puffies to begin with, they slow down the loss of heat.
Again 20s and 30s are not that cold. There's a world of difference at 0F and colder. (really once you hit single digits). Personally I think the word "frigid" is really just the result of trying to drop an F* bomb through chattering teeth ;)
While I've moved to merino, I agree that the UA Cold Gear is impressive and great on the move, but you'll be far more comfortable picking up puffy for camp. Any thing that makes you look a little bloated will probably work, the really thin insulated layers (MB Down Inner, Atom LT, Pat *puffs) will keep you alive, but probably miserably so.Jan 18, 2012 at 1:26 pm #1826329
martin coopermanSpectator
@martycLocale: Industrial Midwest
I would second what Kenny said, and do a test right in your own backyard. I note that you are located in the MidWest. I'll assume that means the northern Midwest, as in Michigan, rather than, say, Oklahoma.
If that is the case, pick a night when it's going to be cold. Tomorrow night in Cleveland where I live they're predicting a low of 16F.
Go sit outside in all your gear. See what happens.
Things won't be that dire if you bring inadequate clothing on a winter trip, at rest.
Worst case, assuming your sleeping bag is adequate, is you'll get chilled sitting around and get in your bag.
Or perhaps you plan on a fire keeping you warm. That would certainly work.
Some of these things are best learned by doing, as long as there's recourse to a safe alternative. Your sleeping bag ought to provide that recourse.
Write back and tell us how it worked.
Marty Cooperman
Cleveland, OhioJan 18, 2012 at 3:39 pm #1826382
I thought I had made it clear in my last couple of posts that I clearly understood the difference between movement and sitting on my butt in the cold? I know there is a major difference there and I am not disputing the fact. My comparison was with wearing what I have, WHILE sitting idle at camp last weekend and not being cold at night, in approx 20-25' weather with very strong winds. I will just have to experience the difference between 0, 15 and 25' then because I generally don't notice the difference unless I'm doing something not-so-bright like taking out the trash in gym shorts and a t-shirt when its 15' and snowing. The second comment was in regards to replacing any existing layer with something warmer, if I did that than I would indeed overheat while on the move so it needs to be an addition, not a replacement is what I was getting at.
And I am quite tolerant of the cold. And I don't mean that in some sort of manly 'hah this isn't cold at all! while I get frostbite on my feet' sort of way. I literally mean it in the way that it has to be pretty cold for the weather to beat my natural body heat, even when sitting still (but especially true when moving). And if I have been moving it takes a while to truly cool down let alone get cold. Though I do agree with your sentiment of the real origin of the word 'frigid' and I have experienced such cold while skiing a cpl years ago so I know what it means to be 'under geared' in the outdoors. My whole group was a bit under prepared for how cold it was but obviously it was good that we were just at a resort and not out in the back woods. If we had I certainly would have packed warm clothes but I digress.
This is still slightly moot in the sense that I have already concluded that I will be getting one from each category to use in varying temperatures as needed (not necessarily together). A cap3/4 and a puffy (like a Montbell Alpine? which has been suggested a few times I think).
I posted it a bit earlier and am only just getting used to the forum profile here but I am in Colorado. I do intend to try it in my backyard so to speak it just wont get truly cold enough to test this week but I will still try to be sure.Jan 19, 2012 at 8:56 am #1826655
Ok then Id say this all but wraps up this thread and I greatly appreciate all the feedback and apologize if I sounded like a belligerent turd at times, lol. But one last question/issue. I was primarily looking at the montbell alpine light jacket, seemed well recommended and it was the right price for me and is of good quality. The problem has come with trying to find it for sale from a reputable dealer. backcountry, and amazon dont have any reasonable selection( I need a large and would like blue or black..). e-omc has terrible reviews and moosejaw seems hit or miss for customer experience. Anyone know of a good place to check to buy it from or any good alternatives? And the GoLite Summit 800 is out of stock in the right size so that one is out. :(Jan 19, 2012 at 9:12 am #1826660
Renais AMember
I've had very good experiences with campsaver.com. They have a good selection of MontBell, reasonable return policies and fast service. The jacket you want is available at their site. They periodically put last year's MontBell on sale as well. Unfortunately, the 20% off coupons from campsaver generally exclude MontBell items.
JimJan 20, 2012 at 12:53 am #1827097
Greg, sorry if I came off cranky, I probably was (new semester with too short a winter break and slight illness make me very unpleasant). I also didn't realize you are from Colorado which makes me believe your non-macho cold tolerance considerably more.
I have one last recommendation, for pants. Someone mentioned Arc'Teryx Ramparts and I just wanted to second that rec. I love mine, about 8 oz in a 30/32. They have decent wind protection and water repellency but are very light. They'd work great under snow pants. I wear mine year round (tights underneath if cold) and they survive even the desert cat claw without a hint of wear and tear. I can even climb in them with full leg mobility (but I'm not yoga flexible so YMMV).
They are expensive, but often you can find them around $70 at REI. These are my go to pants, even in the AZ summer. They're a bit warm above 90F for my heat tolerant self but starting at those temperatures even a kilt or birthday suit can't stop you from sweating…
Again sorry from the grumpiness and an alpine light will probably serve you well. Golite is having a sale and has their Roan Parka for a steal (not the lightest but noticeably warmer than the alpine light with a clo of ~3.5+ vs 2.5 for the Alpine Light) or the Bitterroot which is pricey even on sale but at 13 oz with 5.2oz of 850 down should have a clo of 3.25+!Jan 20, 2012 at 7:51 am #1827161
@dustin its no problem and I realized I was sounding a bit stubborn too. As for the options I checked out the Golite sale and unfortunately all they had left was an XL or I probably would have grabbed it. I went with the alpine light from Campsaver, had god reviews so will see how that goes (and seems I just got shipping confirmation, very nice!). I also want to apologize for overestimating the cap3. The pictures/description and reviews made it sound like a nice thick fleece-like mid-layer but after seeing it in the store I doubt it gives as much warmth as my ColdGear, so my apologies to those of you who said otherwise and I didn't believe you haha.
As for the pants I went for a pair of the Sahara's from REI, they were having a sale and I got a pair for just $29 so cant really argue with that. Going skiing this weekend so they will be going under the snow pants for the first test to see how well they breathe. And we will see how long they last. It turns out I may be able to go to Philmont this year with our troop so if that happens that will be a true test of them but I don't think it will happen. Either way I'm anxious to try out these new pieces and I'm glad I picked this site to post to :)
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st: Create dummy variables in automated way
"Mirnezami, Oliver" <email@example.com>
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st: Create dummy variables in automated way
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I am trying to perform a chow 2 test for predictive failure and would like some help in creating dummy variables in an automated way.
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I understand I need to create dummies for each individual in each year for the later part of the sample (2003-2010).
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My first time walking past a LEO was in a shopping mall. They didn't notice a thing. I doubt they were looking either.
This is a discussion on CCW'd in the middle of LEO's and firemen within the Concealed Carry Issues & Discussions forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Today I went to a b-day party for my niece. Her dad is an LEO, his brother is an LEO, and there was a fireman ...
Today I went to a b-day party for my niece. Her dad is an LEO, his brother is an LEO, and there was a fireman or two there at the party.
Like always, I carried..
Anyway, I stuck a J-frame at 1:00 under a tucked-in western shirt, and as far as I could tell, no one was ever the wiser.
It's one thing to carry at wally world, but when you can do it in the presence of those trained to notice such things and not be made, you're doing something right.
And Gene or Dave would have mentioned it if they'd made me, even though they don't mind.
My first time walking past a LEO was in a shopping mall. They didn't notice a thing. I doubt they were looking either.
Nevada CFP
Utah CFP
Good Job. Did You ask if You could put the bullet in the gun now ?.
Don't hurt yourself from patting yourself on the back.
Funny, huh? My trips to WW usually involve walking past a cop. At first I wondered if they would say anything, but now it's just like passing by anyone else.
You mean cops don't have x-ray vision?
I was just wondering if you were using a holster or not. your post kinda made it sound as if you just stuffed your weapon into your pants.
Good job. Looks like you may be doing it correctly!
,=====o00o _
l_--- \___l---[]lllllll[]
(o)_)-o- (o)_)--o-)_)
Try carrying a Smith and Wesson .40 (shoulder holseter) and a Kimber .45 (SERPA on hip) openly on a State University campus, with a couple of campus cops and their hungry German Shepherd and see if they notice. ;)
The K9 is eyeballing him hard! (smartest one of the bunch I guess)
Back to the subject, I've been called out by a cop once. It was in the middle of 7-11 (no customers in the store) and he knew me.
It was more of a when did you start carrying type of thing. I asked how he saw it, and he said he saw a small bulge and knew it wasnt my phone because it was in my hand so he took a guess.
Back on topic... I have carried openly into my hometown police station and fire station, and nobody really cared. The Chief of police even commented on my wifes holster. So carrying concealed around these people should be a non-issue.
We went into the police station for a town class promoting gun safety, where they handed out Eagle Eddie stuff to the kids. And we go to the fire station every year for the annual Memorial Day breakfast.
I have several friends and some relatives in law enforcement, and none of them have ever spotted my gun carried this way.
Well not being told you are made dosn t mean that someone did not notice . i personally do not go up to friends , family or strangers and say hey i caught with a weapon you are trying to conceal


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Abby J.
Nanny in Gretna, NE 68028.
Looking for full-time work as a nanny.
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Gretna, NE
- Age 22
- 2 years paid experience
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Last signed in: More than 6 months
Preferred Rate $10-$15 per hour
Abby's Bio
I am looking for a summer nannying position in Omaha! I am a student who attends UNL during the school year but grew up in Gretna and attended St. Stephen's and Marian in Omaha. I did some part-time nannying for my aunt during the summer before my junior year and then worked at Ralston Little Rams during my senior year of high school and the following summer. During the year, I worked with 20 children, ages kindergarten through 6th grade in the after school program. During the summer after my senior year, I worked exclusively with the pre-k through 1st grade group, which included 35-55 children, depending on the day. I have experience with children of all different ages and have completed CPR & First Aid training within the past year. Let me know if you are still looking for care for your kids!
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2 years of paid child care experience with:
- Toddlers (1 to 3 years)
- Preschooler (3 to 5 years)
- Grade School (6 to 11 years)
- Pre-teen/Teenagers (12 years and over)
Skills & Abilities
Additional Services:
- Potty Training
- Meal Preparation
- Laundry
- Light Housekeeping
- Willing to drive children to events, school, appointments, or carpooling
- Homework Help
|Lynne K. is a reference for Abby J.
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You may deduct from your taxable income contributions or gifts to organizations that are religious, charitable, educational, or scientific in purpose. The Salvation Army, United Way, Girl Scouts, nonprofit schools, and The Vegetarian Resource Group are all examples of charitable organizations.
Contributions may be made by cash, check, or out-of-pocket expenses incurred in doing volunteer work for qualifying organizations. If you donate used items, such as clothing or furniture, your deduction is based on their fair market value at the time of the gift.
To deduct single charitable contributions of $250 or more, you need a receipt or acknowledgment letter from the recipient. You must have the receipt before the due date for filing your annual taxes, so don't wait until you are audited to ask for a receipt. If you contribute regularly to an organization such as a church, ask for a year-end summary of your giving and check it for accuracy against your own records.
A receipt must state whether or not the charity provided any goods or services in return for the gift. If you contribute to a charity and also receive a benefit from it, you may deduct only the amount that exceeds the value of the benefit you received. For example, say you pay $100 to attend a charity's fundraising dinner. If the value of the dinner can be pegged at $40, your deductible contribution would be only $60.
You can also donate assets such as stock or other marketable securities. If you have owned the security for more than a year, your tax deduction is its market value at the time of the gift and you don't pay tax on any appreciation. If you have owned the security for one year or less, however, the deduction is limited to the cost of the stock.
Charitable giving can be a part of your will or estate plan. Such giving can not only benefit your chosen charity, but provide you or your heirs with income during your lifetime or theirs. One such strategy is to make a deferred gift using a charitable remainder trust.
When you set up a charitable remainder trust, you or your family members receive income from the trust for life or for a term you specify of up to 20 years. In the year the trust is established, you can receive a charitable deduction on your income tax return equal to a portion of the value of your gift. Often, such trusts are funded with highly appreciated assets such as stock or rental property, because the sale of assets in the trust is not subject to capital gains taxation. When the trust ends, the remaining assets pass to the charity. These trusts are a good way to benefit from an income or estate tax deduction.
Another strategy is a charitable lead trust, in which you place assets in trust and the income is paid to your chosen charity for a period of time. After that time, the principal passes to your children or grandchildren. This technique allows you to give assets to family members at a greatly reduced transfer tax and any appreciation on the principal passes to your heirs tax-free. Consult with your tax adviser about any trusts you consider establishing.
A charitable remainder trust is an innovative way to minimize taxes on the sale of an appreciated property, such as a home, when other strategies may not be sufficient to avoid taxes on the appreciation. Funding a charitable remainder trust with your home allows your home to be sold tax-free and provides you with a lifetime of income on the proceeds of the sale that can be used for retirement income or to pay the mortgage on a home of lesser value. After the death of you and your spouse, the trust assets are transferred to your chosen charity.
You can also make a gift of a remainder interest in your personal residence or vacation home to charity. You are allowed to continue to live in the property and are entitled to a current income tax deduction for a portion of the fair market value of the property. The property is transferred to charity at your death. You should consult with your tax adviser regarding the gift of a remainder interest in a residence. Real estate can also be deeded outright to charity during your lifetime.
One of the fastest growing sectors of charitable giving today is the community foundation. These foundations are publicly-supported charitable institutions that ad-minister individual funds contributed by or bequeathed to it by individuals, other foundations, agencies, corporations, and other sources.
A community foundation is governed by a local board of private citizens chosen to be representative of the public interest. The board invests its assets and distributes income each year in the form of grants either at the board's discretion or with advice from the donor.
In 1997, almost 550 community foundations held $21.27 billion in assets, an increase of about 24 percent from the previous year. These foundations received $2.4 billion in gifts and gave approximately $1.25 million in grants, according to the Columbus Foundation's annual Community Foundation Survey.
There may be no cost to establishing a charitable fund with a community foundation. In addition, as a donor, you are assured that your gift will improve the lives of individuals within your chosen community for generations to come. Merrill Lynch has recognized these tremendous benefits by forming an alliance with community foundations across the country to allow our clients to participate in these philanthropic funds.
Consult with your tax adviser about how best to make contributions to charities in ways that can cut your tax bill. Your financial consultant can talk with you about trusts and estate planning as part of your long-term plans to give charitably. With a little knowledge, you can contribute to society's good, as well as your own.
Allen N. Jones is Senior Vice President and Director of the Merrill Lynch Private Client Marketing Group. This article was submitted by Robert Orchanian, Financial Consultant. If you have questions about this article or other financial needs, you can call Rob Orchanian at (800) 937-0386, or e-mail him at: email@example.com. Rob is the author of The Race Against Junk Food.
This article is not meant to give specific legal or financial advice or endorsement of any one approach. Please consult your own legal, tax, or financial advisor. If you would like to leave a donation to The Vegetarian Resource Group, and wish to discuss future projects, you can contact Charles Stahler, Debra Wasserman, or Brad Scott at The Vegetarian Resource Group, PO Box 1463, Baltimore, MD 21203.
For a copy of a Merrill Lynch brochure on The Charitable Remainder Trust, contact Charles Stahler at the above address. Or you may send an e-mail to: email@example.com, or call (410) 366-8343 to request the brochure, or other information.
The Vegetarian Resource Group depends on the generous contributions of our members and supporters to continue our educational projects. Though the world may not become vegetarian in our lifetimes, we realize that we are planning and working for future generations.
Your will and life insurance policies enable you to protect your family and also to provide a way to give long-lasting support to causes in which you believe. Naming The Vegetarian Resource Group in your will or life insurance policy will enable us to increase our work for vegetarianism.
The Vegetarian Resource Group is a tax-exempt organization. Your bequests are tax deductible for federal estate tax purposes. One suggested form of bequest is:
I give and bequeath to The Vegetarian Resource Group, Baltimore, Maryland, the sum of ___________________ dollars (or if stock, land, or insurance policy, please describe).
To be sure your wishes are carried out, please speak with your attorney specifically about writing the correct information in your will. If you would like to discuss the types of future projects you wish to support, contact Debra Wasserman, Charles Stahler, or Brad Scott at The Vegetarian Resource Group, PO Box 1463, Baltimore, MD 21203 or call (410) 366-8343.
Excerpts from the May/Jun 2000 Issue
The Vegetarian Journal published here is not the complete issue, but these are excerpts from the published magazine. Anyone wanting to see everything should subscribe to the magazine.
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April 25, 2000
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Pogue Wins Third Straight Diver of the Week Award
GREEN BAY, Wis. (GreenBayPhoenix.com) - Green Bay junior diver Daniel Pogue (Chisholm, Minn.) has once again been tabbed as the Horizon League Men's Diver of the Week for the period of Feb. 1-7, the conference office announced Tuesday. Pogue has now been named conference Diver of the Week seven times this season, and 12 times in his Phoenix career.
In last Saturday's regular season finale against Milwaukee, Pogue swept the diving events by recording the highest scores ever recorded in both the 1-meter and 3-meter events at the Peter F. Dorschel Natatorium. The junior standout accumulated a score of 337.80 in the 1-meter competition, followed by a total of 342.45 on the 3-meter board.
This award marks the second time this season that Pogue has been honored at least three weeks in a row, as he also earned Diver of the Week four consecutive weeks from Oct. 25-Nov. 15.
The Green Bay men's and women's swimming and diving teams are next in action at the 2011 Horizon League Championships, held Feb. 23-26, Cleveland, Ohio.


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Use the tools below to refine your search by only displaying reviews with a certain number of star ratings or to only show reviews from a certain time period. Eg click on '1 star' to just display the reviews we have which received a 1 star rating click or 'Within the last month' to display just reviews posted over the last month.
Written on: 04/05/2017 by McLeanct77 (1 review written)
Not one of them can speak proper english so every query was a problem, they tell you one thing and do another, they ask you for extra money and pretend you owe more they are liars… Read Full Review
Written on: 23/01/2017 by auMcMahon332 (1 review written)
Don't bother booking with this company, they are lying conn artists using aggressive methods to force you to pay. My partner and I called up about a holiday to the Canaries advertised for £131 each. They hiked it up to £598 and when we said we didn't want to book they said they would take £100 for a cancellation fee- £100 to cancel a holiday we hadn't even booked! After hanging up on them they hounded us, calling my mobile phone immediately and continuing repeatedly until I blocked the… Read Full Review
Written on: 23/06/2016 by MADUNMUN (1 review written)
PLEASE BOOK ELSE WHERE!!! Booked via ICELOLLY.COM THE INITIAL PACKAGE HOLIDAY WAS ONLY £193 FOR A 3 DAY STAY IN Ibiza Ok I change the one flight and that took me upto £271 with all the charges ok fine, paid £200 deposit after the total agreed price was £542 for two of us, only to be sent an invoice for £690, called several times for them to come up with the lame excuse of it was for the change of flight, which only cost an extra £4 if I booked myself. Please beware of theses C0N artist… Read Full Review
Written on: 14/05/2015 by esayles1956 (1 review written)
What can I say, appalling. I looked for a holiday through Ice Lolly and it brought up SunSave. It had a price for the flights and hotel etc. I went through the process of booking, which included the passenger names and Date of birth. It then asked for your payment card details. After I input the details I fount it strange as it said you could add your extras later, such as luggage. So at that point I called the office to query when I could put in my luggage etc. She then told me that the… Read Full Review
Written on: 21/10/2014 by sandysanderson (1 review written)
we booked through sunsave.com. Please please never use them! 1st we had been given a price then when we phoned to confirm it was not the same. No big deal was expecting a bit of difference. They asked for our names and payment detail all fine so far. I then Got the email through for me to send our passport detail which I did and even pointed out that my wife's passport was still under her maiden name. 3 days before we were ready to fly they sent email with tickets and they were in the wrong… Read Full Review
Written on: 13/08/2014 by Bateman1988 (1 review written)
Over the last month I have attempted to book a Holiday with Sun save. On both occassions the Holiday was to the same resort, 2 different dates. The website on the first occasssion stated a really attractive price. When I eventualy got in touch with the company the price increased by over 500 pounds which was nearly a 40% increase on originasl price quoted. Needless to say I didnt book. 1 Month later the same holiday was still being advertised (i understand that timely updates to websites is… Read Full Review
Written on: 12/08/2014 by Ameliah496 (1 review written)
Avoid Sunsave go elsewhere!! Booked my holiday in January 2014 for and Easter break to Lanzarote in the April 2014 booking all went smoothly took my £5000 no problem. In early March I emailed hotel to ask for my 2 rooms to be together to be told they only had 1 room booked I called Sunsave immediately to be told after 3 calls to them a holiday company had gone in to administration but don't worry they will secure it with another supplier to cut a very long story short I was told 7 days… Read Full Review
Written on: 11/08/2014 by Donnasheil1 (1 review written)
Booked my holiday through Sunsave in January for a family holiday to Lanzarote in April (Easter HOlidays) Beginning of March I emailed hotel direct to ask if we could have the 2 rooms together to be told only 1 room had been booked. I contacted Sunsave and was told they had not sent other names over (their supplier hadn't) I emailed hotel again and was told No they would of had the names, I then call Sunsave again to be then told the supplier they had booked the other room with had gone into… Read Full Review
Written on: 29/07/2014 by Shar67Stokes (1 review written)
Just got back after a week in Benidorm with a friend, staying at the Rosamar hotel-hotel, flights, baggage, and transfers all organised by Sun Saver and cannot fault them. Yes we looked on ice lolly first for a cheap holiday and the Sun Saver price did originally quote £379- but after speaking on the phone the price was actually £440-however we had a good early flight going and a afternoon flight coming back all the other operators were quoting similar prices for night flights on ice… Read Full Review
Written on: 21/07/2014
Totally disappointed after thinking I found my perfect holiday for my family to then be told the hotel is not available at that price and would be 1000 pound more !!!! Then tried and offered an alternative that was 600 over my budget then the staff member was arrogant saying how much did you want to pay ???? Eh the price I was quoted online ??? Stay away complete let down promised a callback within 24 hours I had to call them to be told to busy we'll look into your booking and call you back 5… Read Full Review
Written on: 15/07/2014 by hellohelloholidays (1 review written)
Total charlatans. Just been completely shafted by them - really upset. AVOID!!!… Read Full Review
Written on: 16/07/2014
Me too I have been completely shafted also really upset too and Abta think it's ok
I feel really angry
Written on: 12/06/2014 by Carsenp410 (1 review written)
Thought I would try sun save never again be warned booked a week in Gran canaria in March arrived at hotel that we booked to be told that we would not be staying there staff rude told to get a taxi at my expense to other hotel complained when we got back sent e mail they replied got to wait 56 days no reply so sent another e mail no reply now in the hands of the ombudsman might have better luck getting a reply… Read Full Review
Written on: 12/05/2014 by Alessandraj1981 (1 review written)
BOOKED A HOLIDAY ON FRIDAY FOR WHAT I THOUGHT WAS 8 NIGHTS DUE TO RECEIVE EMAIL CONFIRMATION ON SATURDAY DID NOT RECEIVE UNTIL MONDAY DATES WRONG 7 DAYS NOT 8 SUNSAVE WANT TO CHARGE £160 TO CHANGE FLIGHT CONTACTED RYANAIR MYSELF THEY SEND AN EMAIL STRAIGHT AWAY TO COMPANY AFTER BOOKING I DID NOT RECEIVE UNTIL 3 DAYS LATER RYANAIR STATED I COULD HAVE CHANGED MY FLIGHT WITHIN 24 HOURS IF SUNSAVE HAD SENT ME THE IMFORMATION I WAS PROMISED NOW THEY COULDNT CARE LESS I AM NOW PAYING OVER THE ODDS… Read Full Review
Written on: 03/04/2014 by shane26 (1 review written)
We booked our holiday through Sunsave 4 weeks ago for a holiday in Can Pastilla (Spain)for the 10th April 2014 only to receive a call 7 days before we go to say that our hotel was not available and that it was not going to be open. It only got worse from here on in. We were told that they would offer us an alternative in the same chain which was in a different resort down the road, After checking to see where this new hotel was, I was shocked to find it was in a resort where the nightlife is… Read Full Review
Written on: 27/02/2014 by Danny321 (1 review written)
DO NOT USE SUNSAVE. They use a classic bait and switch. The price is not the one you will pay. I am currently fighting them for a refund. They increaced the price by over 50%, to make matters worse, they didnt even tell me, the cardholder, the final price. Nasty company that are very spiteful and unremorsfull. Its like they are laughing at you. Please dont make the same mistake we did. You will always pay a huge extra sum of money for things like baggage, alternative rooms, transfers etc… Read Full Review
Written on: 13/11/2013
do not trust this site thay quote you one price on line then when you phone them thay put it up by £100 more when i complained thay offerd me a £50 discount but the added £47 on the final total plz dont use this site you will only get riped off… Read Full Review
Written on: 28/09/2013
I booked with Sunsave on 25/8/2013 for a 2014 holiday. The price was good even after the inevitable hike when I was phoned to confirm the booking and given the live price. To my surprise I was emailed on a further 3 occassions to ring up and confirm I was happy with what I had booked and that the names etc were ok, good aftersales service I thought. Then out of the blue today, I get another email to please call sunsave. I was then informed that I was being offered another hotel because of a… Read Full Review
Written on: 03/04/2014
This has just happened to us. We booked with Sunsave and our hotel was hotel Whales balmes in can pastille (Spain) received a call 7 days before we go to say that hotel will not be open and they will re locate us to a hotel further down the road in a different resort (Near Lively nightlife, night clubs etc) which is not suitable for us as we have a 3 year old daughter. Disgusting customer service and lies all through the so called booking. STAY CLEAR UNLESS YOU WANT DISAPPOINTMENT!!!!!
Written on: 15/09/2013 by ktlt28 (1 review written)
hi we booked with sunsave in 2010 and had a great holiday then in 2011 we booked with them again as we got to the airport in grand canaria we did not have the transfer that we were supposed to have there was no one the waiting for us ,taxis wanted in the region of $70 euros which we was not willing to pay as we had already paid for them but luckily a kind man came over to us and said im going to puerto rico but after ive dropped everyone else off first we was on his shuttle bus for approx 2… Read Full Review
Written on: 21/08/2013
Do not believe a word this company tells you. Although very charming on the phone, beware the all is not as seems. We are a middle aged couple and booked a late deal for quiet week, and choose a hotel with reviews to suit. Only hours before we were leaving, we were informed that we will now be staying at an 18-30 type hotel, and no matter how much we protested, or asked to search for alternatives, the answer was always the same. "Like it or don't go and lose your money" Ice Lolly should be… Read Full Review
Written on: 18/08/2013
I have been monitoring the price of a hotel on the Sunsave website over a number of weeks. The prices could change up to twice a day and I assumed this was because of updating live prices as this is the reason given for price discrepancies in their question section on the website. I decided to book the hotel today and the difference between their website and actual price was £154 each! This was almost 50% more than the website price for each person. I would not recommend anyone to use this… Read Full Review
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Over the weekend I finally had time to upload photos from my CF card (containing photographs I took while I was in Sydney almost 2 months ago) onto my computer. It made me feel a little sad, because those days were so carefree and for the month I was there, it was the first time when I didn't have to study because I had no exams sit for and there was no work to worry about, because work had not started. I basically did what I loved – planning for my meals, shopping for ingredients, and cooking for my loved one :] We also found time to go for holidays and attend church on the weekend.
It's been a long time since I went to church in Singapore, but I must say that the people at CCC made me feel so welcome. I enjoyed the services because well, the sermons were about church history and me being a history/knowledge buff, I practically soaked up the information on the reformation period. Everyone was so friendly and inclusive that I decided to bake a couple of cakes and cookies each time I attended church. I must admit that I had an ulterior motive, because all those people at church just meant for guinea pigs for my baking, but well, I felt good because everyone only had good comments for the stuff I baked heh :]
To start off, I decided to stay safe and stick with stuff I knew, so I made a hokkaido milk buns with red bean filling. I knew that this would be popular because soft Asian-style breads in Australia don't come cheap and well, most of the people at church were Asians, some of whom have been born in Australia, some of whom are studying in Australia for a couple of years.
CCC is over at Milsons Point, which is in North Sydney. The view of the Sydney Opera House you see above, is from Milsons Point. The only other way of getting the same view is to take a ferry from Circular Quay to places on the other side, to Watsons Bay and the like. The north shores of Sydney are not much of a tourist attraction, which perhaps explains why I have never step foot to places like Chatswood (a very Asian-populated area) and North Ryde. There's lots of good Asian food there, with huge shopping malls that Singaporeans and Malaysians are acquainted with, but I think I very much prefer Sydney on the other side of the river.
Because it was winter, it was pretty cold most of the time, but on my last visit to church, I decided that I should head out to the area regardless and take some photographs. Looking at the photograph above, you would think that it's spring in Sydney, but the outfits of the two ladies reminds you noooooo it is winter and with the winds blowing in your face, it's effing cold! I snapped a couple of quick photographs around the area before heading to Luna Park to take a snap of its very iconic entrance.
Luna Park is an amusement park which has a history stretching back to the 1930s, which explains why the entrance is so…well 1930s. It gives me the impression of old-school amusement parks in America, even though I've never been to America and have never seen an amusement park there.
I particularly like the two photographs above, the left has been processed to evoke what I think is a 1930s mood, and the right has been changed to black and white just because. I like how the face of the clown is nicely reflected in the puddle (it had rained earlier) on the ground. There was a father with his son of about 6 years of age, and I particularly enjoyed listening in to their conversation. The father was standing a couple of meters beside me when I was taking the photograph, and having spotted me squatting and taking a photograph of the puddle, the reflection and the entrance, he took the opportunity to teach his child something about science. He first asked his son what he saw when he looked into the puddle of water and then explained how this reflection came about. There is so much to learn everywhere, and I really admire the dad for showing his child that, at such a young age. I would want to be such a parent, if I ever have a child in the future.
- 270g bread flour
- 30 g all-purpose flour
- 40g sugar
- ½ tsp (4g) salt
- 1 tsp (5g) yeast
- 45-50g egg (without shell)
- 40g heavy cream (at least 35% fat)
- 30g full fat milk
- 100g tangzhong*
- 25g unsalted butter
- 500g red bean paste (optional)
- *Check this post if you don't know what is tangzhong and how to make it (for 100g, you need to heat about 20g of flour with 100g of water)
- If using a bread machine, follow directions as per your machine, but add the tangzhong together with the flour. If kneading by hand or mixer, place the sugar, salt, bread flour, all-purpose flour and yeast into a large mixing bowl. Then, add milk, cream and egg into the bowl and knead until a rough dough is formed. Add in the softened unsalted butter and knead well, until the dough no longer sticks to your fingers but is slightly tacky.
- Shape the dough into a ball and cover it. Allow it to proof for about 60 minutes or until doubled.
- Punch down the dough and divide it into pieces weighing 60g each. Allow the balls to rest for about 10 minutes before attempting to shape them. In the meantime, measure out 30-40g of red bean paste (how much depends on how much red bean you like. I used 30g) and roll them into an equal number of balls.
- On a lightly floured surface, flatten a dough ball into a round disk. Place the ball of red bean paste in the middle of the disk and wrap the filing with the dough. Pinch the ends together to ensure that each dough ball is completely sealed. Then using your palms, slightly flatten each ball until you get a flat round disk of about 5-8cm thick. Using a sharp knife or scissors, snip the edges of the disk. I made 6 snips to get 6 petals. Be sure to make very deep cuts all around the dough because as the dough proofs, the cuts will become shallower.
- Allow the 'flowers' to proof for another 30 minutes or until they have increased about 1.5 times in size. Brush the top of each flower with some egg wash or milk if desired.
- Bake in a preheated oven of 180°C for about 22 - 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven and allow to cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before consuming.
2 comments
Hi Janine, thanks for sharing your pictures. Look beautiful.
Your flower bread look excellent and very pretty. The texture look cottony soft. The slightly over baked it's ok, still taste good with coffee.
Have a nice day, regards.
Love these soft filled buns. Great for breakfast too.
I would love to visit Luna park too!


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This is one of those easy recipes that is semi homemade but fully delicious.
I wanted to share it with you because my husband and son made it the other night for the girls and me and it was such a treat.
This is how simple this recipe is…
They used a box of chocolate cake mix, hot fudge syrup, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream.
After the cake was baked, they split the slices and layered them with ice cream and hot fudge. They topped the scrumptious goodness with whipped cream.
That's it!
Nothing was made except for the cake. You could, of course, make everything from scratch and that would be wonderful, but this was FANTASTIC just as it was.
The fact that my boys made it for us made it even more delightful!
I want to say a happy early mother's day to all of you mothers out there and all of you precious ladies who play such a big part in so many people's lives. God has a wonderful purpose for all of our lives!
God bless all of you my sweet sweet friends. God loves you and so do I!!!!
If my mom is reading this, I want to say happy mother's day to you and I love you so very much. Thanks for all that you do for me.
For anyone with sadness in their heart this mother's day, please remember that God has great big arms just waiting to hold you.