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Thursday, July 31, 2008
About knives, I've always been a traditionalist. Mostly.
For hunting, I carry my Dad's old Case Sodbuster pocket knife and a disposable razor knife. For day to day use, I carry the same Case Sodbuster. In fact, that elderly single blade folder has served me as long as it did my father, and I've never really needed more.
This is not to say I don't own other knives. There are a few Gerber's around, including an old Mark I combat knife with some interesting history. These are now called the Mark II and have serrated blades. There's a boot knife that was a present and I've never had reason to carry. There's even a rather large Shrade folding knife that has survived three worn out carry cases so far. In addition to those, a handful of 'belt tools' have graced my person over the years, each having its own blade or two amongst the myriad other gidgets and gadgets on them.
I once crawled down a well pit, waste deep in water, and made the entire repair with nothing more than a Gerber multi tool in my hand and a flashlight in my teeth. Both had been on my belt, as regular friends.
Today, I became a little more modern, and bought myself a new folding knife for everyday carry. The Sodbuster will be retired to the gun safe, Just in case the new kid on the block isn't up to the job.
I've been looking at the Gerber Paraframe for some time now, impressed by the lightness and apparent strength. While the old Case Sodbuster is tough as nails, I like the idea of something lighter, thinner, and with a clip that will keep it in place. If it means I'll be more likely to have it on me, then all to the better.
The Paraframe has a single clip point blade, available with either a fine edge, or half the edge serrated. This time I chose the serrated version, as it seems to suit me better. Too often I find myself sawing through something tough with my pocket knife. I get there eventually with the Sodbuster, but I'm not adverse to a tool that will make life easier.
On the flip side of that serrated/fine edge choice is the chore of sharpening a serrated blade. It takes a small round stone to do that, and a few extra minutes. I have the stone, and am willing to invest the time.
It's a lock blade, which the old Sodbuster is not. If you've ever been using a folding knife and had it try to close on your fingers, you'll understand the attraction of a lock. In this case, it's a 'liner lock' that must be pushed sideways to unlock the blade for folding. It's fairly positive and takes a good amount of thumb pressure to release.
Speaking of thumb pressure, the Paraframe is designed for one handed opening as well as closing, and has a pair of small knobs on the back of the blade. Pushing one with the thumb of the hand holding the knife will open the blade to its locked position. It takes some practice, but in a few minutes I had the operation down pat.
Reading opinions online regarding the Paraframe, the only complaint I can find is the screws that hold it together back out over time. The fix is easy, and is even recommended as regular service by the company. Simply use a T6 torx driver to remove one screw at a time, give it a tiny dab of loctite, and reinstall. I expect that once I do so with red 271 loctite, it will never even think of coming apart. In fact, it would probably take a torch to remove the screws in the future.
Gerber has an interesting history as a company. It was started by an ad man who saw a niche he could fill. In the 1930's he hired a craftsman to make some knives as gifts, and they went over so well he abandoned the advertising business and built a knife making company. The history shows, as Gerber has run some fascinating ads over the years.
Monday, July 28, 2008
CCI .22 CB Long ammunition...... (Shhhhhh)
In this video you can see and hear the difference between firing a standard bulk pack high velocity .22 Long Rifle round, and a CCI .22 CB Long cartridge.
In a future post I'll compare various forms and brands of .22 rim fire ammunition for both velocity and accuracy in testing. For now, a few comments on a recent range session with the CB longs.
I recently repaired a .22 rifle, and found myself at the range doing function testing. I was also mounting a scope a scope on the .22 in preparation to eradicating a few thousand bunny wabbits that are eating our garden.
The problem with the rifle involved a round jammed in the action. A .22 CB short round which lodged while chasing down a huge Australian fanged killer rabbit that was eating our broccoli. The rifle is rated for short, long, and long rifle but it seems the CB shorts are just too..... well....... short.
For this session I picked up a box of CCI CB Long cartridges. Brigid mentioned these in a post, and it started me thinking. These rounds have the same ballistics as the CB Short, but arrive in a longer case to improve functioning. The price is the same as CB shorts, being slightly more than one arm and half a leg. ($8.95 a box around here).
After mounting the scope and dialing it in with bulk pack .22 LR rounds, I turned to the CB's for final tuning. These are the rounds that will be busting bunnies in the garden, and their low power requires excellent shot placement. In exchange for reduced power, there is a dramatic reduction in noise as the video demonstrates. Rated at 710 FPS with a 29 grain conical bullet, they have slightly more power than a decent adult air rifle.
How do they stack up in accuracy? Well enough to makes wabbits wobble in wonder as they wander away in wost hope. (Oh... ain't I a stinker?)
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Self defense with a firearm, my first time.
The first time I used a firearm for defense, I was fourteen, and sitting on a tractor.
The story goes like so………………
I spent a lot of my youth growing up on a small farm. Call it an estate if you will, since in that part of the world any large piece of land was 'an estate'. My father ran the place, and to my way of seeing things it was a farm. We had a barn, tractors, horses, and we grew some crops. We also had a pond full of snapping turtles, fields full of woodchucks, woods full of squirrels and deer, and a stream full of trout.
You can guess what my hobbies were.
I started carrying a .22 on the farm at an early age, just about as soon as I could prove myself safe with it. It wasn't considered any more dangerous than the tractor I was driving or the hay bailer throwing gut wrenching bails of hay at my head. The rifle was just another tool on the farm, useful for holding down the woodchuck population and thinning the squirrels that ate the corn.
Our farm was called an estate because it was owned by a wealthy woman who had lived there for over sixty years. Her home was quite literally a small mansion, and the property was surrounded by a mix of middle class and well to do people, leaning heavily towards the higher end of that scale. Along with the wealthy families came the privileged brats and that made our farm a target.
Kids snuck in to grow pot, far away from where mommy would steal it for herself.
We always found their plots and disked them under if small, or called our buddy Detective H if they were bigger. He was on the local police force, and a friend.
Wealthy adult neighbors, thinking they owned the world, brazenly stalked our farm during deer season, tearing down the 'no trespassing' signs as they blundered drunkenly past. This didn't happen too often, as the nice detective was the only one allowed to hunt the property besides us, and he didn't care for their company. (There is a heckuva story there, which I will tell one day).
Later, as they got popular, dirt bikes and ATV's became a serious issue. The riders would drop fences, run the horses, and tear up fields. That got old very, very fast.
Dad was inventive in finding ways to dissuade them. Trees across the field entrance, bands of broken glass where they parked, and more. When a woman tried to run him over, it got serious.
Carrying my .22 took on a new meaning.
One day, as I was on the tractor in an upper field, I saw a dirt bike with two men on it riding across a lower field. I also saw Dad in his truck, heading their way. Back then I had young eyes, and even at the 1000 or so yards it was I could see him waving me down the back way through the woods in front of the bikers.
I put the international in high gear to the woods, then shut her off as I coasted the tractor path through the woods and out to the field below. I had done this hundreds of times, as the woodchucks knew the sound of my tractor, and only by coasting could I sneak up on them. I understood how far I could coast, and I knew how quiet it would be.
As I rolled to a stop, I uncased my scoped .22 bolt action rifle and placed the butt on my leg with the muzzle straight up. This silhouetted the rifle, exactly what I intended.
I did that because I didn't want to shoot the two men who were now off their motorcycle and walking up on either side of my Dad.
They were about 150 yards from me, and had no idea I was there. Dad saw me, as he was facing my way. They had their backs to me, and never heard me roll up behind them.
Even at that range I had no problem seeing they were not nice people. Dad was there to tell them to leave, and they didn't like that. He was old, they were young. He was alone, and there were two of them….. Or so they thought.
I saw Dad point between those dudes, in my direction. They turned and looked. What they saw, with the sun behind me, was a guy sitting on a tractor with a scoped rifle…. and they had no place to hide, no place to run.
I hadn't a doubt I could hit them both, even knowing the .22 would not have dropped them. I had been shooting long enough, and done enough work on that rifle, that I was regularly shooting woodchucks in the head at 100 yards. A man at 150 was no challenge at all, even moving.
They didn't know any of this. All they knew was a situation they thought they owned had just gone very, very bad for them.
I saw Dad reach in his truck and get his camera. He took a picture of each of those guys as they stood there, then they got on their little bike and rode slowly to the edge of the property with Dad right behind them, and me on the tractor, staying the same 150 yards away.
The pictures went to Detective H, and we never saw either guy again.
I often run through that afternoon in my head, wondering if I should have done anything different. Dad never said a word about it, so I guess he was happy with what I had done.
It worked…… nothing more than having a weapon was needed. Those dudes were not smart, but they understood the danger they were in well enough. All thought of causing harm vaporized and they took the path of least pain and suffering.
Farm kid with a .22 (+1), Dangerous trespasser dudes (-1).
I guess that was a win.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Neck sizing Vs. Full length sizing rifle cases.
Hand loaders have so many choices, so many things to keep them up at night, I thought I'd add some fuel to the fire.
Let's look at yet another factor in loading accurate rifle ammunition, the method chosen to size the case.
Usually one of two avenues is open to us; Full length sizing and neck sizing.
Full length sizing is just what it sounds like: The case is 'resized' along its entire length. The die can be adjusted to change the depth of this sizing, or how far down the neck and body the case is pushed into the die body.
Neck sizing involves just working on the case neck, leaving the body as fired. This alternative has several side roads of its own.
Why is one type of sizing preferable to the other? Here opinions abound, but lets look at a few of the major points.
Full length sizing assures the case will meet specification, and fit in almost any chamber of that caliber that also meets specification. This means ammunition feed and function should be reasonably trouble free. A shooter using his rifle for hunting, some competitions, and defensive uses must consider this factor of utmost importance. In addition, many semi-auto rifles do not function well with cases right at chamber size.
Neck sizing has the advantage of leaving the fired case expanded to match the chamber of the rifle it was fired in. This closer fit promotes accuracy, pure and simple. Neck sizing also works the case less, promoting brass life. As icing on the cake and unlike full length sized cases, neck sizing requires minimal lube. That means one less mess to clean up. Even with these advantages, cases fired with full power loads often must be full length sized every third or fourth loading to preserve function. Bolt action and single shot rifles are best suited to take advantage of neck sized cases.
There are several types of full length sizing. Most commonly encountered are standard sizing and small base sizing. Small base dies take the base of cartridge back down to minimum dimensions, and are usually reserved for ammunition used in semi auto rifles with tight chambers. These creatures can be found at national match ranges, with highly experienced shooters hovering over them like a momma bear with a cub.
Normal reloading die sets come with regular resizing dies. These will roughly size the entire case to nominal dimensions and squeeze the neck tight enough to grip a bullet again. Such dies require the cases to be lubricated along their entire length, another step in the loading process. This lube must be cleaned off before the ammunition can be used.
One downside to full length sizing of rifle cartridges is the life span of the case. The more brass is worked, the more brittle it becomes. This leads to cracks and case failures. Another consideration... Cases fired and then fully resized tend to 'grow' in length, requiring trimming more often.
On the upside, full length sized cases tend to function very smoothly and chamber easily, an important consideration.
Neck sizing boils down to two basic types as well: standard and collet sizing. Standard neck sizers squeeze the case neck into proper dimension, while leaving the case body as fired. They first smoosh the neck into a tight hole that makes it smaller, then drags it back over an inside neck sizer that opens it back up to final dimension.
Collet neck sizing inserts a final dimension form into the neck then uses a collet to squeeze the neck onto the mandrel. The brass is worked only once, and it's not pushed around at all.
In order to better understand and picture the differences between full length and neck sizing, we'll look at a pair of cases done one in each method.
For our purposes I chose a LEE die set containing both types of die in 8x57mm.
The collet neck sizing die, once disassembled, reveals the mandrel and neck collet along with the tapered sleeve that squeezes it around the case neck.
A standard neck sizing die, and even a full length die, is quite easy to set up and use. It's fairly intuitive and the results can be seen and felt as soon as the case is inserted and removed. The collet type die is more complicated, and the builders directions should be followed closely. A mistake here can snap the collet and destroy the die. Trust me on this..... I know this to be true.... sigh.
The standard sizing die is much simpler in design. The body of the die is very closely machined to final case dimension, and the de-capping stem contains an inside sizing button that expands the case neck to final dimension as the case is removed from the die.
In full length sizing, the case must be lubed over it's entire outside, and a bit of lube on it's inside neck as well. I use a lube pad when doing just a few cases, and a spray lube when doing a larger batch.
When neck sizing, full lubing is not required. Only a tiny bit of lube on the inside and outside of the neck is sufficient. For this, I push the case mouth against the lube pad and give it a slight twist. That's all the lube needed!
I struggled finding a way to visually demonstrate the actual results of sizing. Holding the cases in hand, the end product is obvious. Trying to make it clear in photographs was a different matter completely.
I hit upon the idea of 'smoking' the cases. This involves an open flame from a match or a candle played across the object, leaving a very thin coat of black carbon behind.
Smoking the fully lubed case proved to be an obnoxious task, as the oil simply did not wish to take on the carbon. The dry case application was a snap. This is an old time way of marking up a part for fitting, and leaves a contact map easily viewed, and measured if need be.
Running each case properly into its particular die according to the manufacturers directions, we are left with two cases marked up to clearly show the difference between full length and neck sizing.
The difference in the neck treatment is clear. The full length die forces the case neck into a hardened steel hole, while the collet die squeezes the neck against a mandrel with out over working the brass.
The kind of sizing chosen by the hand loader is just that..... a choice. Most folks are quite happy to stick with full length sizing, or 'mostly' full length sizing accomplished by backing off the die a bit. Experienced loaders searching for maximum accuracy often rely on neck sizing as one step of their process.
People loading one caliber for several rifles must either full length size or dedicate one batch of cases to each rifle, if neck sizing for accuracy is the method used., Neck sized cases don't usually work well unless used in the same rifle each time.
Consider it just another tool in the large tool box available to hand loaders.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Results of hand loading
Some folks might think "Why Bother?" when reading how much work it is.
I can provide two reasons right off the bat…
1) It's fun and interesting to do the hand loading, and expands the depth to which we can enjoy our interest in shooting. I can't document this, it has to be experienced, and I know it's not for everyone. These articles are aimed at those who wish to take a shot at it. Pun intended.
2) Hand loading precision ammunition can result in spectacular accuracy, even in a cheap old Military surplus rifle. That I CAN document, and will do so now.
In this case the range results are from using the ammunition built while putting together the previous articles. I compared it to plain jane military surplus 1950's Yugoslavian 8x57mm ammunition. Many people shoot this right now as there was a large amount available recently.
I shot at 50 yards, the distance I can see these targets without my eyes blurring too much. I wanted to make it a test of the ammo, not my aging eyes.
The rifle, to be a fair test, is not the Mauser this ammunition was loaded for. It's another Turkish model 38 acquired because the price was right and the rifle is in excellent condition.
Here she is off the bench at 50 yards with 50's Yugoslavian surplus. The group is just a bit over 1.5", which is not terrible for a 60 year old Mauser battle rifle with miserable sights shooting 50 year old mil-surp ammunition. I should mention.... the first shot was the ten-X, and my heart jumped. What a good omen!
Next up, a group shot immediately after the first, using the ammunition loaded while writing the articles found below:
This group is just over .75". That's as good as I can see at 50 yards using the rough old Turkish battle sights. Actually, it's better than I can see and I can't account for that.
At another place I posed this question "How far must a rifle move on the bench to deflect the bullet 1" at 100 yards?" The answer seems to be about .005" movement will change impact 1" at 100 yards. Using that figure, it would translate to only .007" movement of the rifle on the bench could have given me this .75" group. There are other factors in play, but that should indicate how much accurately built ammunition counts!
The only other shooter there while I ran this test was firing a very tricked out
$125 antique Mauser battle rifle = .75" at 50 yards.
$1250 custom AR target rifle = .75" at 100 yards.
I guess this whole business of loading ammunition with accuracy in mind really pays off.
(Coming up next: A comparison of sizing methods, Neck Vs. Full length)
Friday, July 18, 2008
Bullet seating, the final event
In the first five installments of this epic work, we look at all the steps of reloading reasonably accurate rifle ammo, right up this point:
Here we sit with a rack of nicely prepared and primed cases, all loaded with perfect powder charges. All that's left is to seat the bullets and box them up. How hard could that be?
Bet you thought I would say it's way hard, then spend a thousand words telling why in detail. Actually, it's mostly way easy. The hard part is deciding exactly how far in the case to seat the bullet. The bit where we press the bullet into the case? The die deals with that once it's properly set up. Just load the press and push the handle down!
No, the next thousand or so words will be about setting up the die, mostly. Also, maybe a little about seating depth, and a little about cartridge boxes. Oh.... some about labels too.
Come to think of it, I'll probably just be babbling along for a while.
Before we can set up the die, we must decide how deep to seat the bullet. This is one subject that can keep reloaders gathered late around the camp fire. Everyone has an opinion, and the weird thing about it is.... most are right. The reason is simple. Every rifle, every bullet, and every load has a sweet spot where the bullet needs to be seated for best accuracy. Arguing about where that spot resides is silly.
Finding the perfect load for a rifle usually means changing one detail at a time, making little adjustments and testing till the recipe is refined. Once all the other factors are worked out, precision shooters will often haul their reloading gear right to the range and test seating depths. Making changes a few thousandths of an inch at a time till the 'sweet spot' is found for that load and bullet.
Since we are not loading for precision rifles here, but military surplus weapons, I'll approach the subject differently.
While a bench rest shooter might be concerned solely with how far his bullet seats compared to the barrel lands, Hi Power match shooters and Mil-Surp hobbyists have magazines to deal with. In addition to that, Military rifles often have long throats the bullet must jump before entering the rifling. Seating to touch the lands, if even possible, usually means the cartridge will not feed from the magazine.
We also have to consider another factor. Cartridge handling and durability are an issue.
Bullets seated too shallow can fall free if not treated carefully. On the other side of that coin, bullets seated too far out might engage the rifling on chambering, followed by pulling the bullet out of the case if the bolt is opened. An action full of powder is not a pretty sight!
In my humble opinion, rifle cartridges in the .30 caliber arena should have bullets seated at least one half the neck deep for reliable handling in a target shooting environment.
If defensive or hunting use was the goal deeper seating would be in order. Military loaded ammo usually has bullets seated full depth, at the least.
(The following directions and tips are for setting up a standard RCBS seating die. Specialty seating dies require following the makers directions.)
My methods are really pretty simple. First, mount the die in the press. At this point leave the die very loose. Loose enough that it won't be doing anything to either the case or bullet when the ram is raised.
Now we insert a case into the shell holder on the press ram. (I like to use a spare case for this step, rather than a match prepared case.)
Raise the ram till the case is fully inside the seating die. If there is any hint the die is impacting the case, lower the ram and unscrew the die a bit. If the die does not touch the raised case, then screw the die down till it just does, then back it off ½ turn and set the lock ring.
The goal here is to have the die fully support the case as much as possible while seating the bullet. Skipping this step, or seating with the case only partially in the die, can contribute to the bullet being seated in a non-concentric manner. Non-concentric means wobbly and wobbly is baaaaddddd.
Now bullet meets case for the first time. With a charged case mounted in the shell holder, set your bullet of choice in the neck. It probably won't stay there straight as the neck is sized smaller than the bullet diameter. It had better be, anyway, or you grabbed the wrong bullets!
The bullet will probably have to be guided with one hand as the press ram is raised and the assembly runs into the die gently. Take care not to pinch your fingers! The average press can snap your finger like a toy, and it really, really hurts. I know. I don't want to tell how I know, but I really, really know.
As the bullet and case enter the die for the first time, make sure the seating stem is backed well off. We don't want to fully seat the bullet here, just nudge it into the case. This will take repeated attempts, tweaking the seater stem a bit at a time. Go slow, and have a bullet handy to match up with the subject, using it to judge how deep in the neck our bullet is being seated.
If this is the first attempt with this rifle, I would be checking the fit against the rifles magazine. NOTE: Do not load the rifle in the house! There is no need to even have the bolt in the rifle! Just check for fit and then dump the magazine floor plate to release the round. Do not even take the risk of chambering the round.
Once the maximum length is found for the magazine, load development can begin in looking for maximum accuracy.
If this is an established load (and the load this article is based on..... is) then I use another method. I set my vernier caliper to the desired over all length and lay it on the bench. Each step of setting the seater, I try the loaded round against the caliper as a gauge.
Bumping the seating stem a few thousandths at a time, continue matching to the gauge till it just fits. The last couple of thousandths should be carefully measured and rechecked after the seating stem is locked down. The act of locking the stem will usually change the depth by a thousandth or two, and must be accounted for.
The seating die is now set up! Go ahead and seat the rest of the bullets!
Whoo Hoo! The set of match ammunition is now finished!
NOW what do we do with it?
How about we box it up properly, and mark it properly?
Good quality cartridge boxes are worth investing in. They can last almost a lifetime and serve to protect the time we've invested in or precision ammunition. They also keep the ammo racked in a way that lets us label it properly.
One of the problems facing hand loaders is keeping track of the details. This isn't factory ammo, and we can't just go to the store and buy another box. Safety demands we track everything we do. Common sense tells us we can't hope to duplicate a winning load without knowing what we did.
Logs books are a must, but labeling the ammunition is key as well. Some people like to number their loads, and then log the data. Others simply mark up the box with the load data and skip the log. My choice: Both, of course. I log the load as I shoot it in testing, and I mark up all the load information on the box, or a label inside the box. Sometimes I place a detailed log sheet inside the box, and often I write the load data on the test target and save that as well.
In labeling the ammo box, and just about everything else for that matter, here is a tool worth its weight in gold:
It's an electronic label maker. A family member gave me this several years ago at Christmas. My first act was to label her dog (as 'Dog', naturally). The second label went to her other dog (Dog #2). After that it got interesting.
These can be purchased for around $20 now, and have a multitude of uses. I label powder, bullets, ammo, spare parts, and just about anything else. It lives on the loading bench and gets used often.
Looking at the box shown above, we see it's labeled in a way that will let me duplicate the load as long as I keep the cases in that box, and that box mated to the rifle.
Now, I know some smarty is going to notice a word on the box I haven't used yet. "Comparator". This is a device that allows the hand loader to set up every new load and bullet combination to the same distance-to-lands as the sweet spot requires. It looks like a big machined nut, but in each flat is a hole exactly at the marked caliber. It fits on the bullet right at bore diameter, where the bullet will strike the lands as it proceeds down the barrel. This is the spot on the bullet that must be referenced to recreate the distance-to-lands with any bullet desired.
With the comparator on the bullet, measure the length from the cartridge base to the far end of the comparator. Now we have a number that can duplicate in developing a new load for that rifle.
That little tidbit finished, it's time to wrap this up.
In the six parts of this series I've tried to lay out some methods I use to work within my hobby. If they are helpful, then great, it's all been worth it.
To new reloaders, I offer this advice: Buy some manuals and read them. Read them before you begin hand loading. Read several and compare them. If you can find an experienced reloader willing to teach, do that too. Take your time, be careful, and never push the limits. Don't go on the hunt for the most power, the highest velocity, the tiniest bullet...... etc. It's wasted time. Hunt instead for accuracy and reliability.... there the gold will be found.
Next up: A post with results! Taking the ammunition made during this series of articles and comparing it to military surplus 8x57mm. We'll see exactly what doing this work will achieve, besides having fun and the pride that goes with building your own precision ammunition.
Time to get a charge: Measuring and charging powder
In previous articles we looked at preparing some 8x57mm cases for reloading.
Once the cases were prepared, we seated new primers. Now, it's time to move on and properly charge the powder in our custom precision ammunition.
Before we begin, a few words about the loading process from here on out.
Normally, I have parts from several rifles and various types of ammunition resting on my bench. Also might be found some stripper clips, an assortment of tools, and maybe a book or two. Then, an old soda bottle, half a ham sandwich, and perhaps a puppy can make an appearance. All this is normal, but not today, for today we ....... LOAD.
Safety is the first and foremost concern when reloading. Let me be as clear as I can about this. There is *no* room for error when reloading. Procedures must be established and followed to the letter. Distractions mean stopping the process.
How should the bench look different today? All that's on it is just we need for the loading session. No less, and no more. No distractions.
There should be one kind of powder, one kind of bullet, one set of cases, one set of dies, , etc. The idea should be clear here...... keep it simple and clean. No distractions and no room for mistakes. If there is only *one* powder, then the wrong one can't be mixed in by mistake. The same holds true for cases, bullets, dies, primers, you name it.
On my bench, by my procedure, the can of powder I'm using will be the only one here till I am done and the powder measure is emptied back into it. The same goes for bullets. There will be no other till I am done with this load set.
That said; let's have a look at the tools to be used in handling the powder this session.
First up, and of primary importance to precision loading, I give you the scale.
Years ago I invested in a RCBS 10-10 balance beam scale. It's proved to be money well spent. The accuracy and repeatability is second to none. It sets up and zero's easily on a level surface out of the wind. The magnetic dampening makes measuring easier as well.
It's only drawback noted is the time it takes to make measurements. While fast by old standards, it's certainly glacial by new electronic 'scale' (pun intended).
Used to drop the bulk charge, we have a Hornady powder measure mounted on a bench stand.
Once again, this measure is older than some of my children. It comes with two micrometer type measure chambers that are easily changed. A small one for light charges and a large one for heavier. I have hand loaded cartridges from the .32acp all the way up to .458 Winchester Magnums using this measure. The only issues so far are fine accuracy with long grain powder, and binding with small flake powder.
I own another measure that works nicely with fine flake powder, but it's not mounted on my bench today. The old Pacific antique measure resides on the shelf while the Hornady is in use.
When I load most pistol ammunition, and some lighter charge rifle ammo not expected to be supremely accurate, I use the charges as thrown by the measure. Every so often a charge is weighed in process, but it's never thrown a curve yet.
For powder charges that are on the edge or in cases where accuracy is the goal, each individual charge is weighed. To do this in a reasonably rapid manner a powder trickler is used.
This device can drop powder a few granules at a time directly into the scale bowl.
If the measure is throwing charges just under the desired level then it takes only a few twists on the trickler tube to finish the load, accurate to the single granule.
While any powder funnel can be used to flow a charge into the case, I prefer an older MTM funnel with a 'drop' tube. The fall through the tube allows the powder charge to pack itself into the case somewhat. When the chosen charge is enough to fill the case, a bit of packing will make bullet seating easier.
So, all the toys displayed, let's go through this powder charging process step by step.
First off, zero the scale as displayed above. Follow the directions, but a few tips are in order.
The scale needs to move freely and be repeatable. Once set, touching the scale pan should rock the scale beam and have it return to zero. Any binding is an issue that must be resolved. It's a good idea to set the scale up in a space where it's not likely to get bumped by accident. Once bumped, it must be re-zeroed. Level, clean, and safe is the way to go.
Now the scale is zeroed, dial it to the desired charge. In this case, it's set at exactly 52 grains.
With the scale ready to go, it's time to set the measure. The correct chamber in place, throw a few charges into the pan to get a 'rhythm' going. It's important to work the measure lever in a repeatable fashion. Simply dump these charges right back into the powder reservoir or into the trickler. Once you have the feel for the mechanism, throw a charge into the pan and weigh it. It will surely be too much or too little. Dial the measure setting higher or lower, then drop another charge right on top of the last in the pan. Dump this back in the reservoir.
Why do this? It's because the act of resetting the measure will cause the powder in the measure to settle into the chamber, making the next charge heavy. Understand this and drop it back into the reservoir. The same holds true if the bench is struck hard or the powder measure is operated too harshly for a throw.
Continue this till the measure is set up to drop charges just under the desired weight.
Next step..... Using the powder trickler, drop a few granules at a time till the exact desired charge is reached.
One thing to be remembered is this: There is no money lost when tossing a charge back into the measure and starting that load over. If it's too heavy, or too light to top off easily, just toss it back and throw another one.
In the pan now lays a perfect powder charge. Good! Use the funnel and drop it into the case!
Oh Boy! It can't be long now! Almost there! We ALMOST have.....
A loaded cartridge!
That waits till the next installment, where we'll read about setting up a standard seating die and seating the bullet. We'll also discuss over-all cartridge length and seating depth.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Priming the pump: Methods of case priming
In the previous three part 'case prep' articles we looked at preparing once fired rifle cases for hand loading.
Now, let's look at the first step in the loading process; Priming the cases.
We'll leave choosing the brand and type of primer for another time. In this piece we'll concentrate on actually pressing the primers into the case.
There are many gidgets, gadgets, and required geegaws used in the priming process.
Simply making the initial decision of what tool to use can be exhausting
Here we'll look at two basic types, each representative of a class.
Please note, this article deals only with single priming cases, not the whole process of progressive reloading and the complicated mechanisms used on those presses.
First up, and my personal favorite, is the LEE Auto Prime. Mine has been in constant use for many years, priming untold thousands of cases in that time. This type of tool is also made by RCBS and others, but the LEE is what's on my reloading bench. Next week an RCBS version will probably join it, and my fickle heart will be lost once again.
The LEE Auto Prime requires the use of special shell holders, but the set is fairly comprehensive and not too expensive. Both the hand tool and the shell holder set can be bought new from Midway USA for under $25 together. The tool comes equipped with two interchangeable trays, one for large primers and one for small.
One of the useful features of this tool is the ability to prime cases without actually touching a primer. Primers can be easily contaminated, and skin oil is sufficient to damage the exposed priming solution. Primers are dumped straight from the box into the tipping/feed tray. (RCBS has the same feature on their tool)
Since the primers must be oriented correctly to be installed, the tray has concentric ridges molded into it. Gently rocking the tray back and forth will tip the primers over till they are all facing fire-side up.
From this position they will be fed directly to the primer installation ram press.
A cartridge case is slipped into the shell holder, which will place the primer hole directly over the ram. Light hand pressure is all that's usually required to seat most any primer. Too little pressure and the pocket is oversized. If too much pressure is required then something is interfering with the seating process. Once the correct pressure is determined, every slightest change in seating quality becomes obvious to an experienced hand.
To me, this represents the largest benefit to this type of primer seating tool.
The 'feel' of seating the primer can make problem cases obvious. Primers seated short, or too deep, stand out like a sore thumb.
Cases that have had their primer pockets massaged as shown in the 'case prep' articles usually seat every primer exactly the same, nicely.
There is a shield that installs over the primer tray, and it should be left in place while in use.
While using the LEE Auto Prime, or during *any* priming operation for that matter, eye protection should be worn. Accidents can and will happen, and primers can be touchy things. While I have never had a primer fire during seating, there are reports of it happening. Better to be safe than sorry. In fact, I make a point of aiming the priming tool away from my face as I seat a primer.
It should be noted that LEE specifically states Federal primers are not to be used in this tool, and reduced quantities of other primers are to be loaded at one time.
The next genre of priming tool examined is what I call the 'press ram priming tools'. These mount in a reloading press and use the ram stroke to seat the primer.
The only advantages to these tools I can think of is they always use standard shell holders, and usually the tool comes as part of every press kit.
The press ram-prime tools I own, an RCBS and a LEE, both came 'free' with new presses I've bought over the years. I've never used the LEE version, but the RCBS tool gets used often with my 7.62x54mm loading. Why that case? Because I don't have an Auto Prime shell holder in that size, but do have a standard shell holder.
Both the RCBS and the LEE come with interchangeable tool heads for small and large primers, but the RCBS is clearly better built of finer materials.
In using the RCBS press priming tool, one piece of reloading equipment must be cleaned, as it will matter now. The shell holder is used as part of this tool and the primer is fed through the center of it. It must be cleaned or the dirt accumulated over years of reloading will migrate to the primer pocket.
Following directions, the tool is set up so the primer ram just comes through the base and seats the primer. I recommend seating the first one very carefully till it's just right, then dial the shell holder and base down on the ram (with the properly primed case installed) so every succeeding case is primed the same way.
It should be noted the average press has *massive* power compared to what's needed to seat a primer. My own RCBS Ammomaster loses all feel as to how the primer is entering or seating in the pocket. In fact, just dropping my press handle the last six inches of the stroke usually seats the primer just fine. The handle alone is heavy enough to do the job.
In using a single feed priming tool like this RCBS, the primers must first be dumped into a flip tray and aligned properly. Then each primer is picked up and set into the ram prime. I prefer to have the ram raised all the way when I charge it, sticking up through the shell holder. Then I lower the ram just enough to slide in a case, and seat the primer with a finger or two's worth of pressure.
An important note: Wash your hands before handling any primers!!
Great care must be taken, no matter what kind of tool is being used, to get primers properly seated. Never leave a primer seated above the surface of the case, and usually seated a bit below the surface is better.
Primers seated high are a common cause of slam fires and firing out of battery.
This mean gun go BOOM when you don't intend it to. That's bad; real bad.
If a primer is found to be too high, it can usually be put back into the tool and carefully adjusted. This problem is not often encountered when primers are seated by hand, but progressive presses have a bad habit of giving us high primers some times.
The one on the left is obviously too high, and must be corrected.
As each case is primed, I like to set the case mouth down in a loading tray.
Why? Just to be sure nothing falls in the case, and to discourage any moisture from finding it's way to the exposed primer. While unlikely to be an issue on most loading benches, why take the chance?
Our next step will be charging the case with powder, followed by seating a bullet. Each step is worthy of it's own article and will be covered in the future as we load these 8x57mm cases together.
Cheers friends, and keep your primers dry!


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Veterinary Support
Technician SupervisorCindy Toelle
Veterinary Tech School: Cosumnes River College
Cindy is a Registered Veterinary Technician (R.V.T.). She has been part of our hospital family since 1985. Cindy finds dentistry one of the most rewarding parts of this field. Her own family consists of her husband, daughter, a dog, three cats, one horse, a donkey and ten sheep. Cindy's favorite past time is horseback riding on the open trails.
Registered Veterinary TechnicianSamantha P
Veterinary Tech School: Western Career College
Samantha is a Registered Veterinary Technician. She originally joined the VCA team in 2010 then, joined our hospital in 2015. What Sam loves most about her job is the feeling and contributing to the veterinary community, client education and keeping pets healthy and happy. She has a particular interest in anesthesia and dentistry and would like to specialize in veterinary dentistry. In her off time she likes spend time with her family swimming, camping and doing any other outdoor activity. She also shares her home with her two dogs, Trey and Rexie.
Registered Veterinary TechnicianTamber S.
Veterinary Tech School: Western Career College
Tamber is a Registered Veterinary Technician who joined our team in 2015. She loves caring for all patients and has a particular interest in dentistry. She shares her home with her two Chihuahuas, Ryder and Dizzy, and her two cats Zoey and Roxy. When she is not caring for animals she loves to spend time doing out door activities and watching "a lot" of sports.
Veterinary AssistantChalane Dapelo
Veterinary Tech School: Western Career College
Chalane is a veterinary asssistant. She has been part of our hospital family since 2002. Chalane started as a R.O.P. volunteer through Elk Grove High School and was hired as a pet care attendant after her volunteer time was over. She then completed the veterinary technician program at Western Career College and her goal is to become a Registered Veterinary Technician (R.V.T.). Chalane has one dog named Roscoe who is a rottie mix. Chalane and her husband grew up in Elk Grove and are very involved with the community. You may have seen them dancing in the Strauss festival show at Elk Grove park every July.
Veterinary AssistantBrandee M
Brandee joined our staff in 2015 as a veterinary assistant. She has a bachelors of Science in Animal Science with a specialty in livestock business management. Brandee spends her off time with her two dogs Maverick and Heidi, two cats Tootsie and Veronica, and Quarter horse Lexi. She is always working on furthering her education. She has a special interest in animal reproduction and nutrition. She works training young horses and raising show cattle.
Veterinary AssistantAmber T
Veterinary Tech School: Carrington Collage
School: Veterinary Technology
Amber joined our team in 2015. She was a recent graduate from Carrington College and will soon be taking her exams to become a Registered Veterinary Technician. She is loves pets of all shapes and sizes. She has many pets of her own at home including cats, a dog and a king snake named Saxa.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Health district: Frigid, windy weather could lead to frostbite, hypothermia
- Written by THE BELLEFONTAINE EXAMINER STAFF
Severe cold and winds predicted for today through Wednesday morning could cause frostbite or hypothermia, according to Logan County Health District's Dr. Boyd Hoddinott.
The information board at the Logan County Health District office, 310 S. Main St., could not compute the temperature (-5) along with the time Jan. 6 as a result of the extreme cold temperatures that day. Health district officials are warning residents about the dangers of frostbite and hypothermia with similar temperatures expected today though Wednesday.(EXAMINER FILE PHOTO | T.J. HUBBARD)
"Understand that in these conditions frostbite can occur to exposed skin on you or your pets paws in just a few minutes without pain until it is too late," said Dr. Hoddinott.
The National Weather Service had issued a wind chill warning which starts this afternoon and watch which will continue until Wednesday morning. The warnings mean very cold air and strong winds can combine to create dangerously low wind chill values.
Too much exposure can cause frostbite which is damage to body tissue. It causes a loss of feeling and can show up as a white, pale or waxy appearance to fingers, toes, ear lobes or the tip of the nose.
Hypothermia is a drop in body temperature below 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Warning signs include uncontrollable shivering, memory loss, disorientation, slurred speech, drowsiness and apparent exhaustion.
Take the person's temperature, and if it is below 95 degrees Fahrenheit, seek immediate medical care, Dr. Hoddinott said.
When going out, wear a hat, a scarf or knit mask to cover the face, sleeves that are snug at the wrist, mittens, water-resistant coats and boots and several layers of loose fitting clothing.
For more cold weather tips, visit the health district's website at www.loganhealth.org.


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The Style Gallery is a great new way for you to view, love, and share outfit photos. It's meant to showcase
all the expressive, creative, and inspirational personalities of our community!
Love you too!
Your email has been sent!
Keep your cool in the kitchen with these quirky pasta-shaped pot grips! This pair of flexible silicone farfalle fits securely over the handles of hot pots and pans to protect your hands while you carry on with your culinary ingenuity.
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I prefer this instead of the Citigo RS.
Good job ! 🙂
Beautiful. A great job. Hopefully, SEAT is set and do something similar.
Good job : Next step. After the VW crossUP. you can make a Skoda Citigo Scout or à Seat Mii Freetrack.
Very good as all your last pictures ! Great. 😀
Wow super mini! c´mon SEAT should make this version, unfortunately I believe VW will give priority to the boring UP GTI
Thanks ToKanist, Gonzalo, Frederic and Nano.
Is a good car for this model in uk, but i dunt think they will import soon in malaysia.
You are right Gavin.


text:
HEPA Filter Upright Vacuum Cleaner MC-UG471
- Powerful 12-amp motor delivers strong cleaning performance
- Clean all-round with a variety of quick draw tools on board
- HEPA vacuum cleaner filter maintains a healthier indoor environment
- Protection system shields fan and motor from dust and dirt
- Red vacuum cleaner for a touch of color
In Stock
Motor Protection System
This advanced vacuum system channels dust and dirt particles directly into the vacuum bag or dust cup, which helps protect the fan and motor.
HEPA Filter
The HEPA filter captures small particles such as allergens, irritants, and pollutants.
Pet Air Turbine Brush
Quickly remove stubborn pet hair from stairs and upholstery with this handy on-board attachment.
Easy, Quick Storage with Cord Reel
A single touch activates the cord rewind mechanism, making storage easy and convenient.
Automatic Carpet Height Adjustment
The automatic carpet adjustment automatically adjusts to the proper setting for just about any carpet height.
Quickdraw On-Board Tools
Your vacuum's Quickdraw tools rest in a side holster on the vacuum, ready for immediate use. The stretch hose, wand, dusting brush and crevice tool are always within reach for fast, powerful, above-floor cleaning.
Reach Anywhere There's Dirt!
A 12.5-Foot Attachment makes for easy, efficient cleaning. Your dusting brush and crevice tool will be able to reach the spots where dirt hides, all around the house.
- Powerful 12 Amp Motor
- Auto Cord Rewind
- Quick Draw for Easy Above-Floor Cleaning
- 14-Inch Cleaning Path
- On-Board Tools
- 2 Standard Wand
- Dusting Brush
- Crevice Tool
- Air Turbine Attachment On-Board
- 15-Inch Cleaning Path
- Auto Carpet Height Adjustment
- 24-Foot Power Cord
- 12.5-Foot Attachment Reach
- Motor Protection System
- Integrated Convenient Carrying Handle
- HEPA Filter
- Designed for Quiet Operation
SpecificationsExpand All
- Color Pepper Red
- Amperage 12-Amp
- On/Off Switch Location On Body
- Performance Indicator N/A
- Wheels Standard
- Attachments 2 Standard Wands, Crevice Tool, Dusting Brush
- Air Turbine Attachment Yes
- Attachment Storage Side Caddy
- Bare Floor Option No
- Carpet Height Adjustment Automatic
- Cleaning Path 15 Inches
- Cord Length 24 Feet
- Cord Reel Yes
- Dirt Cup No
- Dirt Sensor No
- Handle Release Method Pedal
- Handle Type Molded
- Headlight Yes
- Agitator Style Plastic, Tufted, Double Row
- Air System Clean Air
- Attachment Reach 10 Feet
- Base Plate Material Molded
- Belt Change Tool-less with Latch
- Clean-Out Port No
- Dual Motor System No
- Edge Cleaning Dual Active
- Filter Type HEPA Media Filter
- Hose Type Stretch
- Hose Swivel No
- Motor Household
Overload Protector
(Belt Saver) No
Opti-Flow Bag Chamber
with Bag Caddy No
- QuickDraw On-Board Tools Yes
- Belt Style Flat Stretch
- Replacement Belt MC-V270B, Type UB8
- Bag Style Micron
- Replacement Bag MC-V155M, Type U12 or MC-V145M, Type U6
- Bag Chamber Filter MC-V191H
- Exhaust Filter MC-V194H HEPA
- Limited Warranty 1 Year Parts & Labor
- Accessories
Hand Tools
ReviewsMC-UG471 is rated out of 5 by 19.Rated 2 out of 5 by Anonymous from No Vacuum Cleaner bags made by Panasonic! I bought this vacuum cleaner in 2016. They are still selling it at this website. What they are not selling is vacuum cleaner bags. I don't want some other company's bags for my vacuum. I want the bags to be from Panasonic. They sell bags for other vacuums but not this one.Date published: 2016-09-29Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from Love this vacuum Love the suction power, and retractable cord. Very easy to use to clean floors. I don't like using the hose and attachments much, but that kind of gets into the canister vac vs upright debate. This vacuum is a very convenient upright.Date published: 2016-01-21Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from mcug471 Very dependable I have gone through many vacuums and this one has lasted the best. Lots of suction and cleans well. Bags are easily available on line. My daughter just bought one she liked ours so much.Date published: 2015-12-11Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from Vacuum Review We have dad a Panasonic vacuum for years. It finally died. We bought a new one. We liked it so well we bought a second one. Great product..Date published: 2015-09-03Rated 3 out of 5 by Anonymous from Good value for the price I've only had these Panasonic vacuums and won't buy another brand soley for the QuickDraw feature. This is my third one. The price was great and overall this one is as expected except for the body casing. It is the cheapest looking flimsy plastic, I was actually shocked when I opened the box. My other two had much harder thicker plastic bodies. Besides that disappointment, all the other features work good and the suction is as good as my other vacuums, so overall I'm happy with this purchase.Date published: 2015-08-11Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from This is the best vacuum cleaner that I have ever used.Date published: 2015-07-23Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from Love It My Panasonic I had for 25 yrs started to have some minor problems so I deceided it was time for a new one. This model was the closest to the one I had. It works great and has lots of power, I still have my old one can't seem to part with it.Date published: 2015-06-26Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from This Is The Best... Love Panasonic products and clean my house daily, because of O.C.D. and believe me, this is the best. I have used or owned every brand and every price, and this one is surprisingly a great product at a great price. I have a 4 year old boy and 5 cats, and have used this vacuum to clean daily and it still works great after two years. The attachments are awesome too, you will love this vacuum.Date published: 2015-03-24
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In Stock$279.99x-is-remote_addr: 22.214.171.124 -- x-forwarded-for: null -- Fallback address: 18.104.22.168 -- httpRemoteAddress: 22.214.171.124 -- All Headers: {x-is-script_name=/on/demandware.servlet, x-is-path_info=/home-and-office/vacuums/upright-vacuums/MC-UG471.html, x-is-requestid=vWeMnlhM7bCXAgAK-0-00, x-is-gateway_interface=apache API, x-is-server_protocol=HTTP/1.0, x-is-server_port_secure=0, x-is-path_translated=/web/aasq_prd/webadapter/lib/demandware.servlet, x-is-server_software=Apache, x-is-server_port=10182, x-dw-ext-tenant-id=aasq_prd, x-is-host=shop.panasonic.com, accept=text/html,application/xhtml+xml,application/xml;q=0.9,*/*;q=0.8, x-is-session_id=zCJofUiCJfede6yTSMPeFJ63os2CWHLJgHXqFxXkOAHcDAIv06CW3BSn-tazknSquNVYTx72EcOLhJa2xvtPfQ==, x-is-cache_hash=383ef5e2877b403b6210ed14863da450, x-is-query_string=t=accessories, x-is-remote_addr=22.214.171.124, connection=close, x-is-server_name=shop.panasonic.com, x-is-request_method=GET, x-wa-version=18.104.22.168, accept-encoding=x-gzip, gzip, deflate, user-agent=CCBot/2.0 (http://commoncrawl.org/faq/)}


text:
As Zag fans continue to breathe a sigh of relief after Thursday's close shave with Southern, Gonzaga's Pete Tormey is busy cranking out stories to help fans in Spokane connect with the team in Salt Lake City.
"Little scary, but they pulled it off, and hopefully we'll keep going through the dance," Gonzaga alum Paul Vogelheim said.
"I'm always nervous, every game, but I have a lot of faith in this team," Gonzaga fan Judi Rabensteiner Sposito said.
While fans are getting ready to cheer the Zags on Saturday, Gonzaga's Pete Tormey is busy writing about the team.
"They want to be here, they they're following us in their spirit and rooting us on, and we want to give them a sense of what it's like down here," Tormey said.
Gonzaga University is Tormey's subject, audience and employer. This week he's focused on informing fans the fans who aren't in Utah with the team about what's going on both on and off the court. Besides post-game wrap up stories with player interview he writes about things you don't know about the team, like for example, the "Eiffel Rifle."
While today's team has intimidating players like Przemek Karnowski and Kelly Olynyk, one of the first to dominate the court for Gonzaga was Jean-Claude Lefebvre -- aka the Eiffel Rifle -- who towered above his teammates at over seven feet tall when he played with Gonzaga back in 1957.
"Yeah, he was quite a celebrity, he had size 22 shoes and they couldn't find the right size shoes for him," Tormey said.
Tormey's filing his stories over at news.gonzaga.edu, where he's posting daily, as well as on social media sites, covering all things Gonzaga, basketball or not, to keep all of Gonzaga's community in touch with the team and everything going on down in Salt Lake City, in order to, "[g]ive people something representative of the quality of Gonzaga University as a university and as an athletic department."


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Boers-Sonderen, Marye J.a; Mulder, Sasja F.a; Nagtegaal, Iris D.b; Jacobs, Joannes F.M.a,c,d; Wanten, Geert J.e; Hoentjen, Franke; van Herpen, Carla M.a
Sunitinib is a multiple tyrosine kinase inhibitor of the vascular endothelial growth factor and platelet-derived growth factor pathway and inhibits angiogenesis, cell proliferation, and tumor cell invasion, and stimulates apoptosis. Treatment with sunitinib in first-line metastatic renal cell carcinoma improves progression-free survival and overall survival compared with interferon-α. Crohn's disease is characterized by chronic immune-mediated intestinal inflammation. Although the exact pathogenesis of Crohn's disease remains unknown, the involvement of angiogenesis is acknowledged. It is unknown whether sunitinib interferes with the natural course of Crohn's disease. We describe a patient with metastatic renal cell carcinoma and a history of Crohn's disease who was treated with sunitinib and developed a severe exacerbation of Crohn's disease. After rechallenge with sunitinib, a second exacerbation occurred. We therefore conclude that angiogenesis inhibitors should be administered with care in patients with a history of Crohn's disease.
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On average, 26 children drown in pools and spas during the week of July 4th
WASHINGTON – In anticipation of family gatherings around public and private pools during the Independence Day holiday, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission's (CPSC) Pool Safely campaign is reminding parents and children of the steps they should take to stay safe when spending time in or near the water. According to media reports and data compiled from USA Swimming, since Memorial Day this year, 72 children younger than 15 have tragically drowned in a swimming pool or spa. The July 4th holiday has traditionally seen an increase in the number of pool and spa drownings, compared to an average week during the rest of the summer. According to data compiled from media reports by USA Swimming Foundation, for the last three years, an average of 26 children drowned in pools and spas during the week of July 4th (June 30 through July 6). In 2013, 23 drownings were reported involving children younger than 15 during the week of the July 4 holiday; in 2012, 30 drownings were reported; and in 2011, there were 25 drownings reported.
"There are simple steps that families can take to create layers of protection and prevent child drownings," said Acting Chairman Bob Adler. "Broken pool gates and fences need to be fixed; more adults need to be designated as Water Watchers; and more kids need to be signed up for swim lessons with certified swimming instructors."
CPSC reports that nearly 400 children under the age of 15 drown in a pool or spa each year, with 75 percent of those incidents involving children younger than 5. Children between the ages of 1 and 3 and African-American children between the ages of 5 and 19 are most likely to drown, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
"Teaching your children how to swim, proper and constant adult supervision for children in and around the water, and providing basic water safety information while setting the ground rules with children regarding any body of water are extremely important," said Olympic gold medalist and USA Swimming Foundation Ambassador Janet Evans. "I took the Pool Safely Pledge to reaffirm my commitment to being safer around the water, and I encourage all parents and families to do the same."
Pool Safely is a national public education effort to reduce child drownings, near-drownings and entrapments in swimming pools and spas. For the second year, the campaign is focusing on populations most at risk of drowning: minorities and children under age 5.
CPSC reminds all families to take the following steps to ensure that their time at the pool is safe for everyone:
CPSC's Top 10 Tips to Stay Safe Around the Pool or Spa this Holiday Weekend
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of injury or death associated with the use of
thousands of types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries, and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the
nation more than $1 trillion annually. CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical or
mechanical hazard. CPSC's work to help ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters and household
chemicals -– contributed to a decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 40 years.
Federal law bars any person from selling products subject to a publicly-announced voluntary recall by a manufacturer or a mandatory recall ordered by the
To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury go online to www.SaferProducts.gov or call CPSC's Hotline at 800-638-2772 or teletypewriter at
301-595-7054 for the hearing impaired. Consumers can obtain news release and recall information at www.cpsc.gov, on Twitter @USCPSC or by subscribing
to CPSC's free e-mail newsletters.
Please use the below phone number for all media requests.
Phone: (301) 504-7908
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The Los Angeles Lakers announced at the end of August that they would be retiring two key numbers from the past, both of which make a ton of sense. Shaquille O'Neal's No. 34 jersey and Jamaal Wilkes' No. 52 jersey will be out of the rotation after they lift them up into the rafters, both deservedly so.
Sure, Shaq is a slam dunk, and even those people who have never heard of Wilkes can look up his stats and justify his number being retired, but it has raised an interesting question regarding retiring numbers. Where do you draw the line between a fan favorite who played well enough for a case to be made for jersey retirement and one who perhaps doesn't have the historic numbers of other guys hanging in the rafters?
Retiring a player's number is completely arbitrary in the end. It doesn't make someone more likely to get into the Hall of Fame and it doesn't alter a legacy, it just honors it. A player's number being retired should be and is totally up to the team, and the people who run the team usually have both the pulse of the city and the team's history well in hand.
For that reason, I could get behind retiring quite a few jerseys of guys who have retired recently, including someone like the recently retired Jeff Foster. That's not a name I'm just pulling out of nowhere, it's a name that widens the scope of players who could be considered for jersey retirement.
Foster averaged just five points and seven rebounds a game in his career, which is uninspiring. However, he became the second-longest tenured member of the Pacers next to Reggie Miller, and his presence with the team bridged the gap between eras, marking him as a very important player in Indiana's history.
He was a bit like Brian Scalabrine in his waning years, but he was good enough in his prime to play every day and contribute to a team that was consistently atop the Eastern Conference.
It may seem an unimportant distinction, but there are two types of retired jerseys across the league; those of truly great players and those of historically popular and important players—with the distinctions sometimes crossing. Guys like Shaq would be one of the former, while someone like Foster or Brad Davis would be the latter.
With that, it seems pertinent to take a look at which players still dribbling would have the best shot at getting their jerseys retired and which are dancing somewhere along the borderline.


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Avene Cold Cream Lip Balm Reviews
AVENE LIP BALM WITH COLD CREAMThis is one fabulous lip treatment! Yes, it does leave a slight white sheen, which is usually enough for me to hate enough on a lip balm to throw it out. But I just cannot ignore how well it performs. My favourite lip balm is Weledas Everon, which smells nice (like honey) and doesn't leave a tint, BUT it's not nearly as effective as this one when my lips are all dry and flaky. I can pile this on d...read moreried-out lips before bed and wake up with lips that have magically HEALED overnight. And better yet, you don't need to reapply all the time, which is why I often forget how great it is. Really great for outdoor activities in cold weather as well, unlike those balms that are mainly petrolatum-based. This is my all-time favorite lip balm. I have never had anything as moisturizing as this! Sometimes I just apply it once a day and my lips will good for the day! Again, I'm a flight attendant so when I work my lips get crazy dry and I am always moisturizing my lips and this stuff is amazing! It is the best lip balm I really have ever tried! I've had this for a little over a year now and I am almost finished. It is a great product, I highly recommend this! Alright, so it's waaay too soon for me to write a review of this product...I just got a free one from the Glytone rep at work this morning, but I am already in love! It has a wonderful smell, shea butter-like, and is soooo soothing and creamy. I already have lipstick on, so I can't comment on the white cast. There is a slight shimmer to the product. I totally love this stuff. I don't know that I would ever have purchased it on my own, it's rather expensive for a lip balm, but I will definitely be using this a million times a day! I've most recently been using the EOS lip balm, which is tasty and fun to apply, but I lick it all off so it's not extremely moisturizing. This Lip balm with cold cream feels like a nice deep moisturizing creamy salve for lips. LOVE. This is an excellent lip balm, if a bit on the pricey side. As a fan of Avene's other products, I find this one to be of similar quality though not nearly as long lasting (for some reason I go through this particular lip balm more quickly than any other Avene item, even though I apply it no more often). I agree with the other reviewers in that it can leave a faint white film on the lips if applied more heavily, but this does not generally bother me, as I tend to only wear it at home. (This might be a consideration for those who wish to wear it under lipstick, however, as it might alter the color a bit). The texture is wonderful, very comfortable, with considerable staying power. I also don't mind the scent, which reminds me of baby lotion... all in all, worth repurchasing if my budget allows. — 4 years, 7 months agomihshelle | 182 reviews
great for winterIn the winter my lips are constantly chapped and it seemed like nothing was helping, until I use this, I dont have to put it on every half hour like I was doing with other lip balms! — 8 years, 3 months agoKikikins625 | 457 reviews
It works!I use this product every night when winter arrives. It keeps my lips hydrated and soft 24/7. I'm personally a big fan of avene products, they have never disappointed me. — 1 year, 9 months agopatridelavega | 8 reviews
This review is: Helpful | Not helpful | Inappropriate | 0 of 0 people said helpful
Best ever!The best I have ever tried. I have very dry lips and Cold Cream is the only one that works for them. — 7 years agoNamasta | 3 reviews
This review is: Helpful | Not helpful | Inappropriate | 3 of 3 people said helpful
for lovely lipsAs I'm sure you're aware by now, I'm always on a mission to find the most fantastic lip balms for different occasions. I'm sure some people have just one brand they stick to, but not me. Like your skin, your lips have different needs depending on the conditions you're in. Take constant flying - the non-existent humidity leaves your lips parched and sad because they are not kissable! However, when ...read moreyou have the proper lip balm for this occasion, you don't need to worry your pretty little head. The gorgeous French import skin care line Avene has a Cold Creme Lip Balm that is to die for. So soft, so cushiony- lips are hydrated with their famed Thermal spring water & protected with antioxidants. The creaminess lasts for ages! J'adore the slanted tip - how often do you see such an elegant lip balm, no? — 7 years, 5 months agomikaela | 92 reviews
A Great ProductI love this, and use it frequently. — 8 years, 6 months agoapplelane | 66 reviews
This review is: Helpful | Not helpful | Inappropriate | 1 of 1 people said helpful
Hands-down the best lip balm...I literally tried everything to heal my dry, cracked winter lips. This was the only product that worked. It is so inexpensive, that there is no excuse not to have some on hand. It's no waxy, greasy or sticky and is the perfect lip primer. — 8 years, 7 months agoEllie315 | 6 reviews
This review is: Helpful | Not helpful | Inappropriate | 7 of 7 people said helpful
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Eat to many of these delicious bite sized chocolates and you might just turn green! That's because these Green M&Ms candies have such a vibrant color and addictive chocolatey crunch, that you might not be able to stop yourself. M&Ms have been manufacturing their amazing chocolate candies since 1941 and has grown from a US born company to a worldwide sensation that millions of people love.
You can bring home a five pound bulk bag of these Green M&Ms to enjoy in a number of ways that will make you and your friends and family smile. Having a Christmas party that you need a dose of green, delicious chocolate for? Want to make a springtime candy basket or add a bright pop of green to an Easter basket to reflect the blossoming plants outside? Just love the color green as well as M&Ms chocolate? Then these candies will be perfect for you!
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Muffle is an Apprentice-level Illusion spell and also one of the Enchanting Effects in The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim. With a base casting cost of 144 Magicka, casting the spell renders the caster's footsteps completely silent. The spell lasts for 180 seconds (396 seconds when dual-cast).
Because the Dragonborn's footfall can be heard by enemies while invisible, Muffle is useful when combined with it. Using both spells while sneaking makes the Dragonborn almost impossible to detect by others, unless the Dragonborn bumps into them or performs an action. The Dragonborn may also be detected when entering a scripted scenario like meeting with a courier or any other character that engages in dialogue with the Dragonborn.
Spell tomeEdit
- Weight: 1
- Value: 88
- See Spell Tome for a complete table of spell tomes, their descriptions, and their values.
- Farengar Secret-Fire sells this spell at Dragonsreach in Whiterun.
- Drevis Neloren, of the College of Winterhold sells this spell when the Dragonborn reaches level 25 Illusion.
- Calcelmo sells this spell at Understone Keep in Markarth.
- Wylandriah sells this spell at the Mistveil Keep in Riften.
This effect also appears as an enchant capable of being obtained by disenchanting apparel with the effect. This effect is only available with randomly generated vendor items and found items and does not include unique items such as Ebony Mail or Nightingale Boots. It appears that passive enchant bears half the effectiveness of the spell version — 25% versus 50%, presumably corresponding to the 50% figure that is reduced by the Sneak perk, Muffled Movement.
To obtain boots with Muffle enchantment other than buying them from merchants is to find them inside The Ragged Flagon. Keep in mind that all city influence quests need to be completed for them to appear. Save the game outside the door after entering via The Ratway. The rightmost shop (managed by Vanryth Gatharian) has a counter with two randomly generated enchanted equipment: a piece of armor (with stolen tag) and a pair of boots. Reload the game and re-enter to generate other enchantments if needed.
- This magic spell seems to increase the Illusion skill abnormally fast, which is indispensably useful for power-leveling. In addition, it also has the odd tendency to not consume the amount of magic listed. Around 20% will show consumed then immediately snap back to being 100% full. This spell can be cast non-stop by using the Mystic Tuning Gloves.
- This spell is far more effective than the higher level spell Invisibility when attempting to elude the Falmer. Sound is far more likely to tip off the Falmer than sight, due to the fact that Falmer are blind.
This section contains bugs related to Muffle. Before adding a bug to this list, consider the following:
- PC 360 PS3 Trying to cast Muffle in both hands (not dual-casting) at the same time with not enough Magicka to cast both spells will waste all of the caster's Magicka and only perform the spell in one hand.
- When held in the right hand with any one handed weapon equipped on the left, the weapon may attack instantly.
|Illusion Spells
|Call to Arms • Calm • Clairvoyance • Courage • Fear • Frenzy • Fury • Harmony • Hysteria • Invisibility
Mayhem • Muffle • Pacify • Rally • Rout • Vampire's Seduction • Vision of the Tenth Eye
|Frenzy Rune
|Schools of Magic
|Alteration • Conjuration • Destruction • Illusion • Restoration
|Related topics
|Illusion Ritual Spell • Magicka • Perks • Magic • College of Winterhold • Illusion trainers


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go-getter52+ weeks old
Need spacious apartment for two. My roommate and I are looking for a place in the Rochester area. I work from home and he's an graduate student. We want a place that has open space for both of us to be able to get our work done and not be in each others way.
Link to this answersquared2+ weeks old
You can find an apartment that fits your needs by using all of the search options that are available on the site. The best way to find a place that is spacious is by adjusting the square footage option so that you can decide how big your rental will be.
need spacious apartment for two


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This recipe was first given to my family by my kindergarten teacher…..long, long ago. This recipe had been passed along to her by her family, who lived on a plantation in the South. My family loves to pull this out come fall when pumpkins are readily available. It makes a great teacher's gift…and freezes well for those times when you need something quick to pull out for unexpected company. Enjoy!
Heat oven to 350
Butter and sugar 2 bread pans. I find the granulated sugar adds a nice crunch to the outside of the bread.
3c flour
2c sugar
1c chopped pecans
1t salt
2c pumpkin mashed
1t soda
1 1/4 cup shortening liquid
3t cinnamon
4 eggs beaten
Sift dry ingredients then add pecans. Adding pecans to the dry ingredients will give a coating that will keep the pecans from sinking. Mix in wet ingredients and stir well. Fill pans half-full and bake for one hour–toothpick should come out clean. If you are using them for gifts, one batch will make 6 mini loafs. If you are looking for a gift idea, saran wrap loaves and wrap with a kitchen towel and secure it with your favorite ribbon.


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As above, bit cheeky I know, but does anyone have one of these within reasonable striking distance of Bolton / Manchester I could borrow ?
Bike Forum
Anyone got a BETD Shock Bush Tool in the NW I could borrow ?
I've got one i bought from TFTune if you want to borrow it Lowey. Does all my rear shocks (RP2/3 float and vanilla R)
Is Preston/Longridge too far?
Cheers guys, Dave, your not far from me... I', getting the new fangled needle bearing one from BETD... should be here on Thursday... Have a bash at fitting it over the weekend. If I'm struggling, could I pop over for a quick borrow ?
I'll leave me wife as deposit.
you could have asked me Sunday and I'd have brought mine
No problem
Does she cook?
No, but she goes like a train in the sack.
who cares will she baby sit the kids while you go out riding is what you should have asked.
Funny how we all look for different things in our women.
now then if she
cooks, goes like a train in the sack and baby sits whilst i ride then, never mind borrowing the tool, you can bloody have it!
Dave any chance I can borrow the tool? Struggling like a bastard with it.
Mail me your contact details please mate.
Topic Closed
This topic has been closed to new replies.


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Starbucks' Mocha Coconut Frappuccino (Copycat)
Total Time
Prep 10 mins
Cook 25 mins
This is my absolute favorite chilled coffee drink and a must try if you like coconut! You can substitute the milk and sugar for 2 cups of ice milk for a smoother, more creamy drink if you prefer!
Ingredients Nutrition
- 1⁄2 cup shredded coconut
- 3⁄4 cup coffee (Starbucks Italian Roast)
- 1 cup milk
- 5 tablespoons chocolate syrup
- 2 -3 tablespoons sugar
- 2 cups ice
- 1⁄2 cup whipped cream, canned (optional)
- Preheat oven to 300°F.
- Spread shredded coconut on a baking sheet and toast coconut in the oven.
- Stir the coconut around every 10 minutes or so for even browning. After 25 to 30 minutes the shredded coconut should be light brown. Cool it off.
- Make double-strength coffee by brewing by standard method, or make a double shot of espresso.
- Chill before using.
- To make the drinks, combine cold coffee, milk, 1/3 cup of the toasted coconut, chocolate syrup, and sugar in a blender. Blend until sugar is dissolved.
- Add ice and blend until ice is crushed and the drink is smooth.
- Pour drinks into two 16-ounce glasses. Garnish each drink with whipped cream, a drizzle of chocolate, and a pinch of some of the remaining toasted coconut. Add a straw to each one.
Most Helpful
This was really really good, a great treat! My only complaint was that I sort of lost the coconut flavor, I would have liked it to be a little bit stronger. Other than that the flavor was right on, thanks for an easy at-home version of one of my favorite treats!
This recipe is missing the most important ingredient....coconut syrup! You cannot make a Starbucks Mocha "Coconut" Frappuccino without the coconut syrup.
This recipe was created by Todd Wilbur for his book "Top Secret Recipes Unlocked" (Penguin/Putnam 2009)


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Blast! We didn't get any handshake drams in Jim vs. Jim: Round II. Don't pretend you weren't looking for it, too.
The real story in the 49ers most recent victory against the Lions was, again, how thoroughly dominant all three units were in the game. Despite the final score of 27-19, the Lions were relegated to field goals until the middle of the fourth quarter.
Detroit's only really good drive was that touchdown drive, and it was an outlier. Matthew Stafford mostly looked lost against the 49ers defense, Calvin Johnson was hardly a factor, and the running game never got going (as usual).
On the flip side, Alex Smith had another impressive performance, Vernon Davis hauled in touchdowns number two and three, and the run game was shredding the "vaunted" front seven of the Lions.
So how does this Week 2 win grade out? Read on.


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You are here: Economics » A music video primer on the destructive powers of Alan Greenspan
A music video primer on the destructive powers of Alan Greenspan
Here's a nice little music video on Alan Greenspan and all that he has wrought. Hat tip Scott.
About Edward Harrison
Edward Harrison is the founder of Credit Writedowns and a former career diplomat, investment banker and technology executive with over twenty years of business experience. He is also a regular economic and financial commentator on BBC World News, CNBC Television, Business News Network, CBC, Fox Television and RT Television. He speaks six languages and reads another five, skills he uses to provide a more global perspective. Edward holds an MBA in Finance from Columbia University and a BA in Economics from Dartmouth College. Edward also writes a premium financial newsletter. Sign up here for a free trial.
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- China's stock markets and revisiting 2011 predictions


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It has been another week of rumour and counter-rumour as the domestic football season winds down ahead of the World Cup.
Major clubs are now turning their attentions to the next campaign, with numerous transfer tales hitting the headlines.
Mats Hummels, David Luiz and Loic Remy are among the players linked with moves this summer, while Samir Nasri has been dealt a blow with his World Cup omission.
Let's take a closer inspection at some of the week's biggest headlines.


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LITTLE ROCK, AR - The Pulaski County Sheriff's Office has released surveillance video from this week's escape of a jail inmate from a transport van.
Anael Castro-Hernandez, 30, of North Little Rock, has been on the run since Monday when he broke free and ran away from deputies in downtown Little Rock.
He was last seen in the Interstate Park area south of downtown and deputies suspect he may have hopped on a train from there.
Copyright 2016 Nexstar Broadcasting, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.


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There's not many places that you can get a million dollar view for a buck, but this is one of them. Just north of downtown St. Ignace is Castle Rock, a local landmark that you can actually climb to the top of. It's good exercise, great family fun, and the views are incredible. You can see about 15 miles on a good clear day and view lots of trees and forests, lake Huron to the east, Mackinac Island, and the top of the Mackinac bridge towers are viewable.
Find Saint Ignace Activities:
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St. Ignace is located in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, at the north side of the Mighty Mackinac Bridge. We are Michigan's second-oldest continuously inhabited city. We were a Native American settlement long before the coming of the French, who were led to the Straits by Father Marquette and Sieur Robert de LaSalle. Rich in cultural & Native American history, St. Ignace lures visitors from all over the world with our unhurried atmosphere surrounded by spectacular beauty. Our downtown business district stretches along the stunning blue shoreline of Lake Huron on Moran Bay. Stroll the beautiful, mile-long Huron Boardwalk along the expansive waterfront and view historical descriptions along the way. St. Ignace is part of the Great Waters of Pure Michigan, offering unparalleled opportunities to enjoy unspoiled beauty, unique history and the Great Lakes of Huron, Michigan and Superior. We offer a variety of events throughout the year for your enjoyment!
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Despite what Tim Duncan, Dirk Nowitzki and Kobe Bryant would have you believe, it's pretty difficult to stay on top of the NBA pyramid forever. New stars are born all the time, and there's a particularly bright bunch looking to make an ascent this season.
All of these young up-and-comers have shown flashes at some point, but many of them have been held back by a lack of playing time. Others have just taken a bit longer to find the right opportunity.
And in the case of a couple of second-year big men, overly cautious organizations deliberately limited their exposure in hopes that the learning curve wouldn't be too steep.
With depth charts cleared and the training wheels off, these players with star potential are ready to rise into the league's upper echelon.


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The Sylvania Community Arts Commission theater group will feature aspiring actors and actresses aged 9 to 17 years to produce The Emperor's New Clothes at Lourdes University at 10 a.m. on Aug. 1.
The commission will work with the children actors from next Monday until the performance.
Participants in this year's youth theater workshop will perform an adaptation of the Hans Christian Anderson tale of a vain emperor whose penchant for new clothes and admiration of his loyal subjects turns sour through the innocent pretense of a child.
Director Irina Zaurov and producer Jennifer Boney-Reynolds will lead the team with assistance from Jenny Zaurov. In its seventh year of operation, the one-hour summer theater performance is free to the public.
Donations will be accepted by the Sylvania Community Arts Commission.


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Perrone Aerospace operates America's only laser-guided water-jet cutting process to reduce costs, eliminate waste and deliver perfect pattern parts to your sewing facility in record time.
Exclusive gaufrage designs create one-of-a-kind interiors from 287 period-correct patterns. Perrone Aerospace offers the highest flexibility when you create your own custom design by combining patterns, substrates, colors and textures.
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search results - Road Bike Shop
Road Bike Shop
Product Search Results For "Park Tool Bottom Bracket Facing Set"
|Abbey Bike Tools Bottom Bracket Socket - Dual Sided BSA30 & Race Face
Use Abbey Bike Tools' Dual-Sided BSA30 & Race Face Bottom Bracket Socket to mount your bottom bracket cups onto a traditional threaded bottom bracket shell. Compatible with Race Face, Rotor, Praxis, and Zipp on one side and FSA 386-EVO on the other, the socket uses a 3/8in square drive, and Abbey...
|Park Tool BBP-1 Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Set
Park Tool's BBP-1 Bottom Bracket Bearing Press Set makes maintenance easy. Its set of machined bushings and notched guide pole make for quick installation, and the list of standards that it's compatible with is so long that we think Park Tool might be making some of them up. The tool has the...
|Park Tool Bottom Bracket Facing Set
The classic British racing frame you have sitting in your basement has been calling you to build-it-up again. Unfortunately, you discovered that the 'expert' before you had cross-threaded the bottom bracket, leaving you with a worthless, stripped-out shell. Never fear, you recently scored the...
|Park Tool Bottom Bracket Tool - BBT-19
The BBT-19 is a heavy duty, shop quality tool for installing and removing Shimano, Truvativ GXP, Race Face, FSA and Campagnolo 16-notch external bearing bottom bracket cups. Made from investment cast steel, the BBT-19 can be used with either a 3/8" drive torque wrench, 3/8" ratchet driver, FRW-1...
Price: $22.49
|Park Tool Bottom Bracket Tool - Hollowtech II - BBT-9
This is Park's shop-quality tool for installing your Shimano 10-speed Hollowtech II bottom bracket cups. It's long enough to give you adequate leverage for installing the cups with the force you need. The precisely shaped metal teeth of the BBT-9 won't damage the teeth on your BB cups provided...
Price: $21.49
|Park Tool Bottom Bracket/Cassette Tool for Campagnolo
It's about time to pull the bottom bracket on your race bike for a good cleaning and greasing. The Park Tool BBT-5 tool is just what you need to pull a Campagnolo BB. When you're done with that you can pull and clean your cassette because the Park Tool BBT-5 also fits all Campy cassette...
Price: $8.95
|Park Tool Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set
Proper head tube preparation is essential to set up your bike correctly. The Park Tool Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set will clean up paint and manufacturing imperfections that cause your headset to seat improperly. Includes 33. 9mm reamer (part #754. 2), and four different size pilots (29. 8mm,...
Price: $549.95
|Park Tool Shimano/ISIS Bottom Bracket Tool
Use the trusty Shimano/ISIS Bottom Bracket Tool to service or replace your ISIS bottom brackets without screaming or needing the assistance of your local mechanic.
Price: $11.95
|Unior Bottom Bracket Shell Facing Tool
Tapping the threads of a threaded bottom bracket shell is critical for proper installation, but equally important is facing the outer edge of the shell. Trying to thread in a BB cup with sloppy or uneven edges can damage your threads, your crank spindle, or worse. Don't eyeball it -- get the...
Price: $299.99


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Pork and Sweet Potatoes, Slow Cooker or Crock Pot
Total Time
Prep 15 mins
Cook 8 hrs
I haven't tried this yet. I sounds really good. I bet it would be good over jasmine rice.
Ingredients Nutrition
- 1 1⁄2 lbs pork tenderloin, cut into 3/4-inch thick pieces
- 3 cups sweet potatoes, raw peeled and sliced
- 1⁄2 cup onion, chopped
- 1⁄2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
- 1 (14 1/2 ounce) can diced tomatoes
- 2 tablespoons brown sugar
- 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
- 1 teaspoon dried parsley
- 1⁄8 teaspoon black pepper
- Spray crockery with cooking spray.
- Combine pork, sweet potatoes, onion, and green bell pepper.
- Combine tomatoes with brown sugar, cinnamon, parsley, and black pepper; pour over pork mixture.
- Cover and cook on LOW setting for 8 to 10 hours. Stir to mix before serving.
Most Helpful
This was the perfect balance of sweet and savory. Not to mention so easy! And the aroma in the apartment was fantastic. I practically had to sit on my hands to keep myself from picking at what was cooking! I did the recipe exactly as written using garlic and olive oil flavored diced tomatoes. Delish! Thank you for posting!
Easy to make and easy to eat! My husband even went back for seconds, and he's not a sweet potato fan, so it's a keeper. The only change I will make for next time is to sprinkle everything with paprika instead of the cinnamon. I also salted & peppered the pork once in the crock, but otherwise made according to the instructions. Thanks for a great recipe!