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Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft), also known as Imja Tse in Nepal, is the most climbed peak in the country. Despite its seemingly formidable altitude, it is one of the most easily attainable peaks in the Himalayas above 6,000m. If you are a novice climber who is aiming for your first real mountain ascent, it is an ideal choice. The climb itself is pretty much non-technical with some alpine skills required such as moderate level of snow and ice climbing. Overall, island peak is a very reasonable choice for a beginner. Here are a few reasons why a beginner should consider attempting the peak.
One of the reasons that island peak is an ideal choice for an inexperienced climber is that the mountain can be ascended if you are reasonably fit and have little or no alpine experience. You don't need to be an expert mountaineer with years of mountaineering on your resume to attempt the climb—although you still require some alpine training and go through high-altitude acclimatization process. These preparatory measures are offered by the trekking agency before the main ascent to the peak. So even for most beginner level climbers, there should be little problem summiting the peak—provided they have gone through the necessary trainings.
If you are an aspiring would-be mountaineer, but don't have much clue on what it takes to venture into this exciting field of mountaineering, island peak can be your "first summit" climb. On one hand, you will have a first-hand taste and feel of topping your first successful mountain. On the other hand, this experience can excite and mentally prepare you into other more strenuous mountain expeditions in the future. Additionally, as a rookie, you will have a much better idea if mountaineering is your cup of tea.
Technicality and the details of the climb aside, summiting the peak towering over 6,000m is an achievement in itself! After all, as a beginner you will not find many mountains in the world at that altitude range, where you can succeed with basic mountaineering training. You will not only be rewarded with a sense of accomplishment conquering a mountain over 20,000ft altitude, but can also brag a little about your deed to your friends when you return back home.
The Island Peak climbing offers one travelling through Himalayan Khumbu region of Nepal, a wonderful glimpse into the ways of local Sherpa culture. Along the route to our destination, you can summit Kala Patthar (5,545m/18,192ft), from where you are offered with a majestic view of two of the Himalayan giants: Everest and Lhotse. Then you are headed for the famed trek to the Everest Base Camp (5,364m/17,598ft), where you can meet fellow trekkers of all levels, but who all share a common enthusiasm for the mountains. As someone with a beginner level of mountaineering, what more can you ask for in a single expedition to Island Peak?
All in all, attempting the summit of Island Peak has more than a fair share of excitement it can provide for a first time climber. From the moment you land on Lukla, the gateway to the Everest region, to the summit of the Island Peak itself, this climbing trip will leave you with a sense of appreciation and respect for the mighty Himalayas. Even as a novice climber attempting your maiden mountain climb, fear no more, for crossing the 20,000ft barrier of the Island Peak is right within your grasp!]]>
"Pictures speak a thousand words." We all love to travel, but our daily life restrains us from a lot of things we love to do. Most of the time we need inspiration for traveling to unknown places and believe me, it sometimes pops up in the most unexpected places. An inspiring speech that you might hear in a conference or a motivation from a good friend or a photo posts of beautiful places that a traveler has posted in the internet, might inspire you right away to pack your bags and head out the door.
Here are 10 photos that will inspire you to travel to Nepal. We hope that the vibrant and near life like photos that we have posted will surely inspire you to visit Nepal, home of the Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. Observe the beauty of Nepal and its lively culture in these photos.
Words cannot convey my immense gratitude and appreciation for the surprise birthday party.I thank you for your thoughtfulness and generosity. The singing to me has so joy-filled and heartfelt that i almost cried. I can see all of your faces as you clapped, smiled and sang me a song in your native language … What a beautiful gift.
Thanks also for the beautiful scarf. I will think of Nepal and its generous people where ever I wear it.
Thanks for the delicious cake and snacks and thanks to the at the restaurant for making my birthday truly special!
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal — We reach Everest Base Camp on a sunny but chilly afternoon, after an eight-day trek that stretched our physical and mental limits.
Aching knees from steep descents and headaches from mild altitude sickness are forgotten as the yellow and orange tents for the summit-bound — framed by some of Himalaya's highest snow-capped peaks — come into view.
We stay for only about an hour on a hill overlooking the camp, pitched near Everest's Khumbu icefall. We take photos, along with dozens of other amateur trekkers from across the globe, before hiking to the nearest lodge, about three hours away.
For more detail please visit the link below:
Soins du corps ou marche méditative, sur plage de sable blanc ou au sommet de l'Himalaya : il y en a pour tous les goûts.
Mais la vraie retraite, celle où l'on se retire véritablement du monde, c'est au Bhoutan qu'on la trouve, un petit pays de 750 000 âmes entre la Chine et l'Inde, un temple où le temps s'arrête. Un peuple qui a remplacé le PIB par un indice de bonheur (Growth National Happiness), une contrée reculée sans publicité, sans tabac, ni feux de circulation. Le Bhoutan est à lui seul un pays de promesses, d'alternatives, de bonheur, d'une vie faite de joies simples en tout cas. Un modèle inspirant dont le succès repose sur quatre piliers : un gouvernement fiable et respecté, une intime proximité avec la nature, un immense respect de la culture et des traditions et, enfin, une économie qui vise à l'autosuffisance.
For more detail visit the link below:
Photo Credit: DR]]>
It has been 63 years since man first set foot on the top of Mount Everest. On 29th May 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa became the first people ever to summit the 8,848 meters high giant. And as soon as we stopped being thrilled, we have an 85 year old man preparing to set a world record as the oldest man ever to summit Everest.
In the span of 63 years, people have made all sorts of records in the Everest – climbing without oxygen, climbing twice in the same season, spending 21 hours on the top without oxygen, getting married on the top, and so on.
Minbahadur Sherchan, 85, is a resident of Myagdi, Nepal and a retired British Gurkha soldier. At an age where most people hesitate to climb stairs, he is preparing for the unthinkable –ascending to the top of Mount Everest. In fact, he would have already started his expedition if the April earthquake last year had not ruined his plans. But now he is preparing to reclaim his position as the World's oldest person to summit the Everest. He was in fact the record holder in Guinness Book for climbing Everest at the age of 78 – which was broken by 80 year old Yuichiro Miura of Japan, which Minbahadur now wants to claim back. When he will make the climb is a good question as he is still preparing, but we expect it around March to May, as it is considered the best time for the expedition.
His home town fellows and U.K counterparts are already on the process to raise funding for his campaign, and appear optimistic that Minbahadur will successfully reclaim his position in the Guinness World Record as the world's oldest Everest climber.
It is estimated that around 1,000 people attempt Everest each year and half of them climb further to the summit. This number does not include people traveling only up to the Everest Base Camp; and the death toll is around 4.4 people each year. Everest climbing is an extreme adventure and requires hard work and training. Even though not all visitors are entertained by its unpredictable weather tantrums, people summit it and immortalize their names as they do it. As to the reason why people climb Everest, the answer is as simple as George Leigh Mallory said, "Because it's there".
Experience Everest with Everest Expedition North Ridge (Tibet), Mount Everest Expedition (Nepal), Everest Base Camp Treks(luxury, via Gokyo, Everest View Trek, High passes trek & much more with Himalayan Glacier. Don't forget to buy insurance before you travel.]]>
A long awaited prediction comes true; His Royal Highness Prince Harry is finally in Nepal, which I can say on behalf of all Nepalese, is a pleasure. Kensington Palace had released a statement earlier this year about the visit without disclosure of dates. He landed in Kathmandu on Saturday, March 19th to mark the bicentenary of the establishment of diplomatic relationship between Nepal and the Great Britain. The prince also stated the visit as his personal tribute to Gurkha soldiers (A Nepalese battalion of British Army) and earthquake survivors. And now he is traveling – he may be doing a Royal visit but his European explorer genes are not going to stay dormant.
"I am honored and excited to be here. Many members of my family have visited Nepal, including my father and my mother, who were both warmly welcomed."
Representing Her Highness Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain, the prince has already basked in the taste of diverse culture and natural adventure the country provides. With the welcome and good luck from panchakanyas (The 5 virgins) the Prince visited Patan, Kathmandu and Bhaktapur Durbar Squares (all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites) and also visited earthquake survivors in one of the temporary camps in the valley. "I am sure you hear this all the time" said Prince Harry during his first speech to the people, "but your country holds a special place in the imagination for so many people around the world." Tourism conservation is one of the highlight of his visit. People were bound to clasp (with joy) occasionally as he inserted Nepali words dhanyabad (thank you) and Namaste (I salute your spirit) in his sweet British accent.
"I look forward to exploring your landscapes, celebrating your culture, and I hope to make many new friends along the way."
Prince Harry's already inspecting camera traps, rafting, watching Tharu Dance and planning to stay in a local home; promoting popular Home Stay around Nepali villages. The park is currently home to a large number of flora and fauna including Bengal Tigers and one-horned Rhinos which are a favorite among the tourists.
A perfect day for some gentle rafting down the Khauraha river earlier – popular way to spot wildlife in Bardia pic.twitter.com/TNAnCQFZ4l — Kensington Palace (@KensingtonRoyal) March 21, 2016
At this moment, I would not be wrong to say that the Nepalese are more excited than the young prince himself- In fact the Nepalese hospitality has reached a royal level. As far as I can remember, His Royal Highness is still to experience trekking in the country – something the Nepalese are anxiously looking forward to.
Update March 23, 2016
Just before wrapping up his farewell speech in the British Embassy, Prince Harry released a statement of interest for spending 6 more days in Nepal. Harry will be working with Team Rubicon U.K as a volunteer in a remote village of Gorkha and help in rebuilding activities.
Take a tour of the Bardiya National Park, enjoy rafting and tour Kathmandu World Heritage Sites with Himalayan Glacier. Don't forget to buy insurance before you travel.]]>
Bhutan is a country of mystery. Travelers often struggle to decode the Himalayan Kingdom with a simple walk-in. Its religion, life, simplicity, natural resource and people are intertwined so closely together that a requirement of simultaneous knowledge of each of the factors becomes necessary. Reading books, especially written by previous travelers and locals, proves very useful for those who wish to engulf it all at once.
Here are some useful and popular books to read before you travel The Land of the Thunder Dragon.
Lonely Planet Bhutan is especially useful for overall knowledge about Bhutan. Lonely Planet is always on top of the game when it comes to describing the country's history, culture and travel options. It also includes local secrets, places to go, and survival chapters.
A book written by Francoise Pommaret, Odyssey Guide Bhutan has luring photographic images of the last Shangri-La. This book scratches the surface providing overall information about the country. The writer has lived a considerable time in Bhutan teaching and is an ethno-historian.
This book is useful for trekkers, as the topic suggests. It contains many trekking routes of Bhutan, and is especially useful when it comes to getting ready for trekking. This book does not contain all the trekking routes,but includes famous and popular ones.
This book is truly an insider's look into Bhutan and useful for those who like to read local. Written by Bhutan's Queen Ashi Dori, this book is her travel experience inside the country as she meets her people and inquires about their well being.
Married to Bhutan is a book by Linda Leaming. The writer is married to a Bhutanese artist and has lived in the country for 10 years. This book is very good if readers wish to zoom-in to Bhutan and eventually get to its core – also useful if you wish to move to Bhutan some day.
Saturday, Feb 13
They say the Wild West is gone, but that is not so. It can be found in the foothills of the Himalaya, where the last organized settlements of humanity are set into the mountainsides and plateaus. In fact, the Wild West of America more than likely stole their raucous thunder from these kindly mountain people, who were living out that tale long before Columbus even reached those famous shores.
Riding into the pinioned town of Syabru Besi, our bus seems to relax as it eases to a stop after the 6+ hours of continuous navigation over winding, turpentine half-roads through the gateway to the Himalaya. Deepesh, the content writer and principal blogger for Himalayan Glacier, mentions that the air feels thinner, but I don't notice anything. We step off into this border town, this outpost, rather, and feel our bodies ease into our packs as we take in our surroundings.
This town, literally, could have been placed in any American flatland of the past and been at home. Looking forward, the main road (re: only road) bisects the town, placing the respective hotels, shops, and tea houses on either side. To the left, the hillside rises up at a steep angle with the rest of the community spread across it like rationed butter. To the right, a steep drop down to the Trishuli River, well-known farther downstream for white-water rafting. Glancing down at its turpid flow, I can see why that feat is not attempted here.
We stop briefly at a hotel for a quick tea, a calm before the storm. I am slightly apart, abstaining, perhaps foolishly, from the pre-trek ritual, choosing instead to focus on my surroundings. I see the dusty street, the palliative dogs, the Nepali men and women going about their lives, all against the backdrop of the jagged fingers of the Earth pressing up around us, the rush of the river. I try to wrap my head around all of it, but fail to do so. Despite my best efforts, my expectation of an enormously epic, magic mountain-scape fails to materialize; I am left in the same world I left behind.
After one briefer checkpoint we are let free, dogs at the races, and immediately traverse a long suspension bridge decked in a colorful explosion of prayer flags. The metal tings under our feet and the Trishuli River, which gurgles below, is the principal chorus accompanying us the rest of the day. The prayer flags, though left behind, we find flowing throughout the Himalaya, and become our recurring friends.
Thoughts flow as we ascend ever farther from that outpost. I realize, marching up the mount at whatever faster speed I travel, that it feels so… normal. My mind harkens back to my first night in India: the city of Bhubaneswar was pure chaos, caught in the throes of one of its hundreds of celebrations, lights flashing, figures dancing, street at a standstill. And yet, I found it all familiar. I knew that… and I know this mountain too. I have been on mountains, been on these grasses and these trails back in America and in Norway. With my slow companions and the heat that sneaks up despite the stiff, cooling breeze (for the sun burns through all defenses), I begin to wonder what the point of all this is. If this continues, we will have the sum total of five days of laborious, sweaty hiking with a view that hasn't "struck" me yet, and then it would be done. I'd be back in Kathmandu, ready for the next one. But to what end?
As soon as that thought enters my head, Peter Matthiessen's The Snow Leopard quickly comes to counter it. I'm not going for the end goal, the journey is the goal. Especially with trekking: even with something like the Everest Base Camp Trek, if you want to just get to the goal you could easily hire a helicopter and fly there. There is something in the trek, if not all.
And then John Muir speaks up. As a kid, someone (I remember not who) gave me an orange t-shirt for some occasion. It was a little tight, with the light, conservative sketch of a mountain range stenciled on the chest. Under that was a quote from the great naturalist and environmental conservationist that has stayed with me ever since:
Mountains speak, and wise men listen.
I didn't understand it. I didn't even really know who John Muir was. It didn't spark an interest in me that changed the course of my life, or even enough to research the man who spawned the thought. Yet I felt it was true, and somehow profound. And I left it there, tucked away in my subconscious until it bubbled up again at this very moment: Mountains speak, and wise men listen. And while he speaks only of wise men and mentions nothing of the fate of we poor fools trying to follow in his footsteps, I decided to try. I decided to listen. And I listened to the mountains and tried to gather what they had to teach, like Herman Hesse's Siddhartha listened to the river after a life of searching and heard all he needed.
Earlier Deepesh had tried to explain the meaning of Himalaya to me. After a moment of thought, he realized it was composed of two words: "himal", meaning mountain, and "laya", meaning rhythm. These two words flow together into a rapturous metaphor: the mountain range is a rhythm of mountains. Even after he came up with an alternative, I chose to stick with this interpretation, for to me it rang more true. And so I looked and listened to the rhythm of the mountains around me.
And I realized they were saying, with their size and grandiosity and patience, "Slow down. There's no rush." They had been here for millennia, for more than millennia, and had ever so slowly inched their peaks into the sky. Who was I, to climb them in an hour? There is no a rush, no need to go fast, no need to get there faster, wherever "there" is. It strikes me I would still like to go trekking alone sometime, to be away from the almost constant chatter and go at my own pace, but this trip is fine. It's great. It's where I am, and I will try to be here.
Behind us, the far side of the valley is a constantly changing tableau, tiny pieces shifting perspective as we angle and move higher. The village, that outpost of the spirit of the West, is given new life, spreading out in ways unseeable from below. In one forgotten corner, a boy runs across a small field chasing a soccer ball as his teammates stand stock still, a garden of shadows.
Up ahead the path climbs higher, leading us ultimately to a small collection of hotels, Khangjim, all stone and empty from the fast of off-season. We are all pretty tired, or perhaps the proximity and promise of comfort makes us remember our own mortality. The pair of women running the commode we choose (a sturdy, earthy woman and her slack-jawed mother) are completely friendly and offer much in the way of ease and hospitality. The view from the small courtyard, looking out over the valley, cannot be captured in photographs, except in pieces. For the secret to reality's beauty is its all-encompassing totality.
We pass a pleasant evening with delicious dal bhat and a warm fire, and slip into our rooms and into sleep from under the most radiant skilful of stars I have seen in a long time, their dances of light twinkling in this roof of the world.
Sunday, Feb 14
I hear Ashish moving around and slowly pinch open my eyes. He is almost fully dressed in the dim light of our small room. I close my eyes again. During the night I woke up at 3:30a and couldn't get back to sleep before finally drifting off into a string of incredibly vivid dreams, particularly odd because I've been off Malarone for almost a week now. It was these from which I woke. I take a deep breath of the chilly air and get up.
Our room is wood, and all the planks look freshly cut. This is echoed in the smell, the smell of the room, the permeance of freshly cut wood. That spice of the air leads my memory as I toss off the blanket and quickly grab my clothes, putting them on with the prayer they will catch my body heat quickly.
We take our time getting ready, knowing that today will be a short day. Two of the trekkers we ran into yesterday amble by and inform us they are going to completely bypass the next village, Sherpagaon, and head directly to Kyanjin Gumba — a 10 hour hike. At first I am jealous of their ambitious nature and wonder why we cannot do the same (minus the pace we collectively set); but then the mountains come back to me, what they told me, and my mind does a 180. I wonder instead why someone would want to go so fast and miss the beautiful changing tapestry of nature before them.
Almost immediately upon re-entering my room to grab something, Ashish shouts for me to come outside. Up on the highest peaks across the valley the sun's morning light spills, illuminating the tips of the rhythm before us.
After a quick porridge and muesli breakfast we are off, winding through the rest of the village to the ridge. I take one look back: Khangjim is the perfect audience to this magical morning overture each and every day.
The crest at the top of the mountain turns out to be just the corner. All the same, the view opens out into a gorgeous vista, one carved by the Langtang river we will be following for the next several days. That vastness, it fills you, even when it is completely intangible. As if to combat my ignorance, a flock of birds swoops and whirls in the void, providing a scale of size and distance against the mountains that takes my breath away.
Some precarious passes. Around midday we arrive at a small set of hotels with a glorious view of the river and its guardians. This is Sherpagaon, or Sherpa Village, and we relax our backs at one of the bigger hotels in the area. The Frenchman, Jeremy, with whom we took the bus the day before, marches by on his way to Rimche and Lama Hotel. Our trek tomorrow is a long one, and anything we can do to close the distance today is appreciated. Both Rimche and Lama Hotel are abandoned currently, but it turns out a few of our hosts are heading up to Rimche to open it for guests, so we gather our things and move on.
The journey is quick. Once we arrive in Rimche I set off almost immediately for the abandoned Lama Hotel, eager to leave my cumbersome backpack behind. It's the first time I've been by myself on the trek and start out running, so happy to be free and mobile and zagging down a path as fast as I can. Very quickly, however, I come across the rest of the empty Rimche settlement. A cement building to the right has had one of its foundations smashed by an unseen boulder, and the lodge up to the left looks abandoned. On my way up to investigate, I spot a flash in the tall bushes: in the instant before it moved, I was face to face with a white-headed monkey, the Nepal gray langur. I have seen the true master of this place.
The path goes steadily down and I notice the abundance of bamboo, which usually springs up around sources of water. The trees, too, are more full and green, with moss decorating their bark. We saw similar trees, what Deepesh is positive was Rhododendron, while trekking in the morning, but this is a veritable forest. The greenery thickens, and the river rises to meet me. Soon, Lama Hotel appears through the trees. In front, a lone donkey stares at me. We stand, stock still, both aware of the moment. Then he moves, breaking the spell, and I move into Lama Hotel.
Lama Hotel turns out to be a settlement with a number of hotels. They are all closed and boarded up, with only a total of three donkeys for residents. I wander around, and out of the corner of my eye I see a light. I look up — the pure white mountain-top of Langtang mountain, seemingly directly in our path. Its stark contrast with its neighbors only emphasizes it as a tiny piece of the mystical that we have come here to experience. I turn away, from that faint tug of yearning, and refocus on Lama Hotel.
This town also reminds me of the Wild West, but a side unseen until now: that of the towns that lost, the towns that were abandoned, those that withered away in the wilderness. A ghost town. I have always wanted to see one, I just never expected to have that desire satisfied on this continent, in this country. And it all looks so normal…
I then go hop from rock to rock in the river, making sure not to fall. It feels nice, though, and free, and I head back in high spirits. At the edge of Rimche I glance up into the face of the gray langur again, sitting on a rock. We enact a similar dance to the one I did with the donkey, but then he bares his teeth and does a little gesture with his hand. I get the message and move away, leaving him to his domain. Until I round the corner, his eyes never leave me.
Back in the main area, with the new addition of Jeremy, we all fart around, enjoying the sunset, before moving into the small dining hut where we gather around a warm fire and wait for dinner.
Monday, Feb 15
I wake up again to a cosy room but not much sleep. The cool air, though, quickly brings me back to life as I hop into my clothes and shuffle my way over to the cooking hut and the fire waiting within.
We have a long day today, and we rose early to compensate. Slowly Raz and Deepesh make their way over to Ashish and I, and the woman in charge of the place. Looks like we woke up Jeremy as well, for he comes up to take part in the morning meal. All of us huddled around the fire, waiting for the porridge to boil, provides what comes to be one of my favorite times in the mountains.
While we eat, I try to reposition my rented sleeping back on the outside of my pack. Originally it hung below, but that made the whole thing cumbersome and hard to set down. Swiftly, with his years and years of experience on the trail, our guide Ashish comes in and Macgyver's a way to attach it more securely on the back. He then points out that the top of the sleeping bag stuff sack can double as an easily accessible pocket. Never in a million years would I have come up with this; it's an improvisation only experience can teach. I eagerly tuck some trail mix in this new favorite holding space.
Jeremy sets out before us and, besides a brief sighting at Lama Hotel, is lost to the wilderness ahead. Unlike the two previous days of our journey, this morning we are trapped in a cold we cannot shake. While the sun is hot, the shade chills mercilessly, making the dense forest feel like something underwater. In this way we pass River Side, a small settlement strewn with boulders larger than Buicks, chipped from the mountainside towering to our left and lodged in the empty buildings we walk between. We trudge along, each sticking principally to our own thoughts, marking the distance with our muffled footsteps.
We are drawn from our reverie by something new: an arrow, made of stones, pointing to our right. Down a little embankment and traversing the river is a small wooden bridge, made of freshly-cut logs and decorated in prayer flags. Ashish assumes the original path must have been covered by rockslides, so we make our way down and cross the sturdy structure.
The foliage to greet us on the other side put me in mind of a forest in the American Northeast, with thick trunks and tall trees, many of which are felled then left. We pass some kind of construction on our right, made out of smaller trees and carved notches. A lodge? A bridge? Ashish says it will remain unfinished.
We cross another bridge that traverses a river that splits off, leaving us again on the south side of Langtang river but depositing us in a tiny field. It is a breath of fresh air, both spatial and respiratory, and we are eager to put down our bags for a moment (except for Ashish, who seems as comfortable in his as a second skin). In a moment, though, we are all staring up into the sky of the northeast, where our path will lead. There, up ahead, between the ridges of the rhythm we walk, Langtang mountain rises up majestically into the sky. We are in awe, trying to take it in and failing, and so falling back on a breathless stare. The only word I can think of is what Alain de Botton describes in The Art of Travel as the sublime:
See how small you are next to the mountains. Accept what is bigger that you and what you do not understand. The world may appear illogical to you, but it does not follow that it is illogical per se. Our life is not the measure of all things: consider sublime places a reminder of human insignificance and frailty.
And yet, standing in a place that contains anything like Langtang himal, being in the presence of such splendor and magnanimity… I feel big.
After a short break we begin again, passing the remains of a stable or house and through a pleasant meadow to another grove of trees. Here we pause; Raz and Deepesh finally dig into the snacks they bought back at Rimche while Ashish and I go to look at the rockslide blocking the path on the northern side of the river.
Deeming it okay, we head back and join in the snacks, and soon we are back on the trail, marching off into the trees. Deepesh mentions how Langtang himal, which keeps being hidden by neighboring mountains, appears shy.
We cross back to the north side of the river and find ourselves in an even thicker forest, one that feels almost tropical. We are plodding along at this point, and it's clear that the snacks and the rest are not enough to completely revitalize everyone. Our pace is slowed, and it's a nice change of scenery when we get to an abandoned army outpost, marked with a sign listing a number of suggestions for high altitude trekking sponsored by Nepal and the Kingdom of Norway.
Soon we finally make it to Thyangsyap, a village completely destroyed by earthquakes and rockslides and now populated with stones. We plop down and sluff off our backpacks, letting our shoulders revel in their freedom. I look lazily around, my gaze passing from piece to piece of the destroyed buildings. And then I glance across the river.
I quickly point it out to the rest of the group. All the trees on the southern side of the river are knocked down… but sideways. Rising a good several hundred meters from the river's floor, all trees have fallen towards the southwest, towards where we came from. We theorize about what could have caused it: avalanches, rockslides, water. But snow and rock wouldn't have knocked it sideways, and the monsoon here isn't strong enough to cause a flood of that magnitude. It puts me in mind of the images I've seen of forests after the original atomic bomb tests.
As we continue walking, I keep my eye to the right. Without fail, the forest has been completely knocked on its side. Do people know about this? Why haven't we heard anything? My curiosity is heightened, my mind racing, until we reach Langtang village.
Or rather, what should have been Langtang. All the villages we've passed so far have been destroyed or abandoned. Where Langtang village once was, however, there is now only an ocean of rocks and rubble. No tip or peak or corner of a building can be found. Looking to the southeast I find the answer to the forest's directional riddle: where the rockslide spills over the river, the trees are knocked down in both directions, indicating what must have been an avalanche accompanying the shearing of the mountainside. Unfortunately, I find it hard to focus because of my hunger, the others sharing my sentiment: it's clear the small bowl of porridge we had oh so many hours ago was not enough to sustain us this long. Even with snacks, our energy is fading. A pair of trekkers pass by as if on cue. They say at least three hours until food.
As we descend into the rubble, I notice Langtang himal peeking from behind one of her neighbors. It comes to mind that perhaps she's not shy at all. Maybe she's embarrassed.
Down in the rubble I find a number of Alpine choughs flitting about in a swarm, black birds of the crow family with a distinctive yellow bill. I don't know what they're getting at. The water here, too, is stagnant, with red algae growing in the pools and green algae in the streams. The only building I can see is a two-story structure under an overhang up to the north. The left side of the roof has caved in, sinking over the window, the embodiment of a boxer with a swollen black eye who knows he won't recover, or get a second chance.
This field of tombs is a place of death, the monotonous landscape marked only by a handful of white prayer flags attached to long wooden staves, their tall, sinuous bodies flapping in the little breeze that graces this place. They look like the standards of fallen and buried samurai, marking the place of a particularly decisive battle. But here, there was no war to be had. Instead, we find a massacre.
The rocks open up to a grazing field dotted with donkeys and horses. Some half-built huts march by on our left, and we make our way up a small embankment to a path split by a multi-leveled stack of Buddhist prayer stones, or Mani stones, each marked with the Buddhist prayer: om mani padme hum. Ashish tells me that Buddhists will walk all the way around the line of stones, keeping them to the right, even if there's a shorter path. It's a comforting thought.
We weave our way past, leading to a field full of immense boulders. As we wind between them, I watch the jagged cliff-face to the north and imagine the rumbling, the shattering, the cracking, the bouncing like beachballs these mammoths must have undergone to leave their resting place on the mountain and crash into this, their new home. I walk unsteadily along, following Ashish's footsteps, the others having fallen behind, when we begin to see the beginning of what looks like a settlement. Up to the north there appears a small row of houses, almost like a squat and dilapidated motel. Up ahead, the dirt path we've been following marches right up to a small cottage, a wooden fence arcing around the dusty yard with a single break for entry, spanned by a sign: "Himalayan Guest House".
The place is non-descript to say the least and tea houses using the name "Himalayan Guest House" are about as common as the donkeys we've met along the way, but the place is like a revelation. Ashish and I quickly make our way into the empty yard, putting down our packs to soak up the sunlight perfectly tempered by the cool breeze. I stay a moment to wallow in the sensations but Ashish is already knocking on the door. His point strikes me: we can enjoy the weather all we want but if no one's there to open or cook, all the sunlight's not going to help us.
We wait in silence. Then there comes a muffled call from inside. Thank goodness! The door opens and a Sherpa woman, dressed in the traditional thick, long wool skirt and apron, opens the door and welcomes Ashish inside. I wander in after a moment, savoring the sun while I can. I have never been more conscious of shadows.
As Ashish and the woman talk I have a chance to check around the small building. Walking in leaves one in a dining and open area, lined with tables and chairs. To the left is the kitchen, where I leave the two to discuss the meal ahead. To the right is a hallway, lined with doorframes. I glance in one and find a number of mattresses and blankets tossed to the side, woodshavings on the floor. No bedframe can be seen. It's probably a good thing we're not staying here for the night.
Walking back to the kitchen, Ashish catches me and tells me the deal: dal bhat, the traditional rice and dal meal of the mountains (a second helping is always included, thereby making it the most hearty meal to be found in the Himalaya), will most likely take too long to make if we are going to continue ahead. There are still three hours to go between us and Kyanjin Gumba and the sun is setting soon. But judging by the time it's taking Raz and Deepesh to make it up here, it's clear we could all use a break. So the question is: make dal bhat and stay here for the night, or have something faster and push ahead?
I catch the pair a little ways down the path and put the question to them. By the time we arrive back at the guest house, Ashish has already begun cooking a huge portion of chow mein, a much faster option, to placate our ravenous hunger. A trekking cook before he became a full-fledged guide, he tosses in spices and swishes the pasta into a sea of delicious aromas, much to the bewilderment of the Sherpa. The question of whether to continue or stop for the day, however, still hangs in the air.
Sipping the mysterious delight of boiled energy drink (who knew?) the Nepali men debate among themselves, and from the little pieces they pass on to me I gather there are two camps. Our original trek was planned for five days, with an extra day on either end for transportation between Kathmandu and Syabrubesi, making for a total of seven days. However, Ashish now figures we can make it up to Kyanjin Gumba today, hike up the mountain in the morning, and start back immediately, thereby shaving off an entire day. While I am in no rush, I am eager to get as far as we can today. Raz agrees to go ahead; Deepesh, who has had the most trouble keeping up, pushes the comfortableness of the guest house.
In the end we all opt to head out. We finish up our sizeable helpings of chow mein, shoulder our bags, and are back on the road, this time all together.
We march in a line, keeping steady pace with each other. The landscape melts into more emptiness, more fields and meadows populated by yaks. Off to the side, Ashish points out a group of yak-like creatures and tells me they're "naks", the Tibetan name for female yaks. Our march is surer, and hunger is no longer our enemy. There is a peace, here.
Far in the distance, the glacially changing tableau slowly reveals a ring of mountains waiting for us. They rise, rise, snows and ice capping their tips and spreading down their bodies, cascading down for hundreds of meters that feel like inches in the impossible scale. We pass more yak and Sherpas, and spot a small white chorten, a Buddhist idol and place of meditation, in the distance. This marks the place as the last place for us, the destination, the end, adding a finality to this sacred ring. We are all quiet as we approach.
I take one look back and am struck: the valley curves away, out of view to the south, and from its mouth blasts God's voice, the seemingly physical last rays of sunlight painting the opposing mountains a rich amber and burgundy. I stare, transfixed, as long as I can.
We pass a small shrine and cross a bridge over a small glacial stream, coming upon a much rockier area. Still no buildings in sight but we know we're close, so Raz and Deepesh stop for a breather while Ashish and I push on to explore the immediate area. Our footfalls crunch in the gravel as we work our way up a small incline, and —
Oh! A whole town stands before us. From our little vantage point we can see across the whole depression and the many hotels that occupy it. It's quite an impressive settlement, actually, and does not look half as destroyed as the other places we have passed through. This, finally, is Kyanjin Gumba. With this promising start, we set off.
A few Sherpa women say there is no housing and then point us to the town, so we follow their lead. Only up close can we see that many of the buildings are boarded up or blocked. In fact, the more we search the more we find not a single building open. Everything is closed. We wander quietly through this abandoned ghost town.
Then we hear talking. Looking to the East we spot two figures moving towards us. After a moment we can distinguish one of them: it's Jeremy! He waves, and we see his companion is a small Sherpa woman, though wearing pants and a jacket untraditional of the mountains' inhabitants we have met until now. They come up, and the tension is cleared.
The rest of the short evening is spent in the small hut where the woman lives. We pipe up the fire and she cooks up some dal bhat, all of us eager to relax after the eight hours of trekking we went through. Helping the woman is an old man both deaf and mute, who shows off his toothless smile and nods his head anytime I catch his eye.
Eventually our eyelids pull downward, and we all get ready for bed. As the Nepali men settle down in the hut, I walk to the edge of town nearby to brush my teeth. Afterwards, again, I am struck by the utter peace of the place. The mountains, like an audience, around me. The quiet, like a breath held before an exhale. The moon, half-full and yet brighter and more imminent than any I have experienced. I try to put my finger on what turns this place, and it's not until I'm safe and warm in my sleeping bag that the words come into my head.
We have reached the end, a place where they don't have a place for us and don't want to cook for us, so that we have to rely on the kindness of one woman and a deaf/mute man. The people here aren't trying to get anything from us and don't really want anything to do with us. It's clear. And here, the mountains are waiting, and the stars sparkle in anticipation.
Tuesday, Feb 16
Drawn from my warm reverie, Ashish's urgent voice brings me back to the chilled world of shadows and snow. I slip out of my cocoon, taking care not make too much noise, and hop eagerly into my clothes. Over at the hut, Ashish helps stuff my sleeping bag while I pull out my down jacket for the first time. Raz and Deepesh are also getting ready, but by the time all my things are packed they still have a ways to go. As I follow Ashish he gives me a knowing nod. "I know the kind," he says.
Our route is mainly zig-zagging up the mountainside, which begins dotted liberally with short grasses and shrubbery, making good steps as the slope gets steeper. We are supposed to continue this until we find the actual path, which we will follow up to the top of the mountain. I confirm with Ashish that we're heading to a small shrine at the top of one of the lower arms of Kyanjin Ri, a 4770m mammoth nearby, before drawing quickly ahead. A headache I had yesterday is gone, and all my drive is focussed on getting up the mountain as quickly as I can. Our goal is to reach the peak before the sunrise, in order to take pictures to capture the moment. However, my phone and only camera died the previous morning, so I will be doing capturing of a different kind, with words instead of SIM cards.
After a couple false starts I find what I believe to be the main trail. Calling out to the others, I quickly discern that at their pace it will be unlikely they will make it to the summit in time. Their slow, ponderous steps mark their way up the hill with great effort. My steps, in comparison, are similarly ponderous. I just ponder a little faster.
Slowly I rise higher, and the buildings of Kyanjin Gumba spread out below me. The path is not so steep, instead curving around to the northeast between two mountains, so my going is good. However, a quick look back shows me it's taking me out of eyesight of the others. I push it out of my mind and prepare to push ahead when something else catches my attention. Across the valley to the southwest, up on the 5860m peak of Urking Kanggari, the first rays of sunlight begin to twinkle. The timer is set. The clock is ticking.
I plow ahead with new fervor. My breath is now coming in ragged gasps, and I'm keenly aware of the precious moisture I'm losing in each small cloud. For some reason I hadn't filled up my water bottle before the climb, and what's there sloshes around half-heartedly. My mind doesn't dwell on it for long, though, instead filling completely with the effort of lifting my legs, one in front of the other, in front of the other. I can hardly get them to move. I know I'm moving faster than the others, but… will I make it in time? I look around me. The path is leading me directly between these two low mountains. I look up to my left, to the rocky ridge that hides the mess of prayer flags that marks the shrine. Will this path take me there? Will it take too long? It looks as though the path isn't heading anywhere near this ridge. And yet… I can't miss it. I'm determined. So I look to the northwest, pick a spot on the peak, and leave the path.
Without any trail my only option is to weave back and forth between the small bushes sparsely populating the slope. I know if I try to attack the incline directly it will wear me out far before I reach the top. I grit my teeth and continue, one foot in front of the other, refusing to acknowledge the burning pain in my legs. A quick look behind me to find the others only reveals another peak colored with light.
Suddenly I'm at the top of the spine — and it puts air in my lungs. I look out at an incredible panorama, unhindered by the slope up which I walked. Over to the west I spot a tiny, but well-trod, path winding up on the opposite side of the spine I came on. I shake my head, knowing I must have come up the completely wrong side. But I'm still here, and now with a much clearer shot to the top.
Up above to the northwest, a lone string of prayer flags marches between two rocks near where I judge the shrine to be. I set my new destination.
I am exhausted, my feet barely moving, but I don't allow them to stop. My thirst has finally crept into my consciousness, but I ignore it. When I get to the top I can have a drink, not before then. This is the only chance I'll get to see the sunrise. But I have to get there first, and my legs aren't seeming to take motivation from the lightening sky. If anything they are slower, heavier, more deliberate.
I'm walking when some movement to my left catches my eye. Four small, female Danphe hop onto the ridge in front of me and begin to work their way up. The Danphe is the national bird of Nepal, a small member of the pheasant family; the females are brown and speckled white with little feathered accents sticking out of their heads. I am slightly in awe that these little birds are taking the exact same path and yet doing it with such ease. It's as if they are leading the way, and even their calls feel to me little chirps of encouragement.
I follow them up, following their quick, darting steps with my cumbersome ones. Another peak off to the east is now steeped in color. Eventually I reach a point where I deem I should veer off to the left, towards the prayer flags, and thank the little fowl sincerely for their help.
And as if from nowhere, I'm faced with a rock outcropping. Jagged boulders up to my shoulders bloom out of the peak, and after the hours of hiking up a steep, flat incline, I almost don't know what to do with them. A single bird cry echoes in the stillness — the sun is coming!
I weave my way around the rocks, a place like a garden forgotten to be smoothed away. Or rather, I imagine, as I step over and between the unwearying sentinels, like a monastery of nature, made with nature. Over this sacred space lay hundreds, no, thousands of tattered and worn prayer flags, spread across the boulders and barely making it into the wind. As I round a corner I see the main boulder, over which the colorful tapestries hang like the arms of a limp octopus. Behind it, two poles still stand valiantly against the encroach of time, with a host of strings carrying prayer flags between them. Many of the strings are so old that the flags themselves are gone, leaving only their color on the thin line in the air.
I look around and find flags climbing down in all directions. Closer inspection reveals several other poles as well, but each is laying, cast aside, upon the rocks. But still, somehow, the place is undeniably holy, as if all of man's tamperings have become one with nature. The entire place is quiet, still, brushed only by the far, far distant sound of the river, and the falls.
For the first time on this journey, I am at the peak of a beautiful complete panorama. Snowcapped mountains rise in all directions, the valley carved by Langtang river sliding away behind distant peaks to the southwest and out of view. Overhead, the finger-streaks of cirrus clouds glide across the baby-blue sky to a point just north of the soon-to-be sun's entrance. A light breeze stirs, just enough to lift the prayers and chill my fingers. To the north, a few dots linger on a higher ridge. Are they yaks? The horizon, just behind Langshisa Ri, begins to bloom.
The light becomes a breath held, the cheeks expanding to contain the impending burst of light and life. Behind me, to the west, the sunlight is slowly creeping down the eastern face of Langtang himal. Thinking I'm clever I try to watch the pole that rises out of this shrine, hoping to see the exact speed at which the sun will dawn, see the exact marker of light and shadow denoted on the wooden staff. But the moment never comes.
The light in the east lifts for a few moments, leaving an almost perfectly uniform sky. I wait, unsure where the sun could have gone. My empty camera hand itches for the moment about to dawn, but I glue my eyes on the horizon, not daring to look away.
Suddenly, it grows in brightness. The sky over Langshisa Ri brightens, then faster, faster, too fast. I watch, frozen, stuck in this onslaught, unable to stop it, unable to hold it off. It comes barreling up from behind the mountain, more than I believed possible, more than I have ever seen. It presses and pushes without pause, never stopping to heed my poor imagination. It rolls up and over and I am forced to bow my head, as the light continues beyond my wildest expectations. As I stand here, soaking in the infinite energy, I understand why the sun is treated as a god, and why the ancient Egyptians named him Ra.
With experiences as beautiful as a true sunrise, and an effortless moon-lit night, it becomes clear that wonder is, indeed, the very fabric of the world.]]>
Langtang's whereabouts, one of the famous trekking routes in Nepal, was still a mystery after the April earthquake wiped out one of its village clusters into dust. Well, not now, as it has just been 5 days I've been back from there. Our route was through Syarbu Besi, where we would access the Langtang Valley from the south and trek to the top of Kyanjin Ri overlooking the mountain.
When I was offered a visit to Langtang for its assessment a month ago from Himalayan Glacier, I was pretty excited. Our team included three HGT staff and one foreign national (Connor, U.S.A). In a week's journey (5 days trek and 2 days bus ride), we discovered something worth sharing to the travel community, and here I am trying to include everything in writing.
Our journey started on Saturday, 13th of February from Kathmandu. We got on a Deluxe Express Bus in Kathmandu at around 8.30 am. The ride was 7 hours long to Syarbu Besi (Rasuwa) from where we would start the real trekking. On the way the bus stopped twice, once for a short break and once for lunch. There were also security checks from Police and Army personnel at three points after we approached Rasuwa District. The bus journey was cozy, with occasional bumps, which is pretty normal in the country.
Reaching Syarbu Besi at around 3.30 pm, we rested for a while in a local hotel. As we still had some time till dusk, we decided to trek uphill. A little walk along the highway brought us to a bridge, which we crossed, and climbed the hill for 2 hours to reach Khangjim, where we decided to call off the day in Small Star Guest House.
An old Tamang lady prepared our meals as we stayed in the fireplace talking to her. After eating we went to bed. Next morning was a treat watching the sunrise on Shanjim Mountain. After breakfast, we inquired some of other hotels in the cluster to see which was safe enough for people to stay. Sukra Hotel & Restaurant was a very nice tea-house a few steps further. It had bigger rooms, a big front yard and panoramic view of the hills.
See what we are giving back: Langtang Valley Trek with 2 days School Volunteering.
Our trip plan for the day was quite easy with a lot of rest along the way. We started our walk towards Sherpa Village at around 8 am. After a while, dense branches started to appear resembling our entry to the forest area. Once in a while we would end up head-on with lines of donkeys passing through. Coniferous trees were growing more in numbers with our every ascending step. The weather was fine and I enjoyed the walk a lot. We reached the Sherpa Village at around 11.30 am and had lunch (dal bhat). We also took an hour long break in the village. Talking with the host, a Sherpa woman, we came to know that the number of trekkers in the area had only recently started to rise. I ended up wondering why- the trail looked pretty normal except some cracked tea-houses.
Back to the trails again, we were off to Rimche, the next camp of our journey. The trip was only two hours long and treated us with panorama of hills and mountains along with some more donkeys and tradesmen. Our guide, Mr. Ashish was now explaining why it was necessary to shorten the trip for the first few days. We were acclimatizing. Starting from the height of 1,400 meters / 4,600 feet (Kathmandu), we were now at upper Rimche (2,450 m / 8,038 ft). We needed to rest. Raz, one of our group members, wanted to have some fun with the water. Langtang River was flowing right beneath us. So we headed down to the river. In the evening, our whole team was sitting on a bench and watching the sun as it dipped down a nearby mountain. We also happened to meet Jeremy on the lodge whom we had met two days before on the bus to Langtang. He was a French guy and was doing the trek on his own.
Next day we woke up pretty early as per the instruction of our guide. Ashish had big plans for us. After breakfast, we left Rimche. We were not sure where we would camp that day, as Ashish was told that most of the tea-house clusters on the valley ahead were abandoned. So we hiked. It was 7.20 am when we started. Porridge with Muesli was a great breakfast. Lama Hotel, a famous spot among trekkers, was abandoned.
Until now we had not come up with direct effects of the earthquake except some broken trees on the way. The devastation of the earthquake now materialized right in front of us. The abandoned cluster screamed of the awful experience it had had. Connor and I quickly took notes.
Every step we were taking, took us higher. I could feel the air getting thinner, and colder. We were headed to the origin of the Langtang River alongside which the whole trek would revolve. Shy mountains were peeking out and disappearing beyond the hills. Rhododendron tree-lines were now standing out, coniferous trees were gone. I noticed exactly three spots with landslide effects. Big stones or trees were lying on the hillside. As I watched, I was grateful they stopped without ever reaching the bottom.
After around two hours though, we came across a diversion on the tracks. It was an arrow on the ground, made up of pebbles. It told us to leave the old tracks, cross a bridge, and continue-an offer we couldn't resist. This diversion was right after Riverside Inn cluster (2,769 m/9,084 ft), which was abandoned too. A wooden bridge (with prayer flags) diverted us to the other side of the river. The diversion cost us about half an hour more trekking than the original one. There were fallen trees, which looked intentional for the development of the route.
Fresh cut wood smells proved our theory. The best thing about this route was a meadow, which was stretched about a kilometer. At one of the spots where Langtang view was great, we stopped to rest. We lied on the grass and sunbathed for a while. Another diversion a while later and we were back on the original track.
A security check point, which looked abandoned as well, was labeled Ghoda Tabela. It literally translates to Horse Stable, meaning the tea-house cluster was famous for horses. We came across some horses only a few moments later though. Talking about abandoned clusters, Thangsyap really caught my eyes. There was a modern menu lying on the floor. Ironically, most of the houses looked damaged, and there was no one to wait the menu. The third day had become our day of realization. We had realized how much the valley had suffered, along with other places in Nepal.
Moving on, yaks (mountain oxen) started to appear on hills. On the other side of the river, tree-lines were showing a different pattern. It looked as though there was an upward landslide.
We are fundraising for a local school in Langtang. You can check out the details here.
"Was it a strong wind?" Conner asked.
"I don't think it's the wind- must be water." I replied.
"But that's impossible, man", Conner said.
Our concern was obvious, but even our guide had no clue what had happened. It was his first Langtang trek after the earthquake. We were to find later.
At one point, our guide pointed us to a wild boar. Connor was very fast to see it. We were coming across various birds species on the way but boar was the one that grabbed my attention, and of course the yaks.
"Where are we eating lunch?" I asked out of hunger.
"Do you see the stone glacier?" Ashish pointed out on the horizon. It looked forever away.
"Oh, yes I do" Raz replied.
There was a village somewhere beyond that point, where we were finally getting some food to eat. I had already been halfway through my lunch box. I had carried some chocolates and nuts, but they were not enough to replenish the hunger of a heavy meal.
As we approached the stones, Ashish said, "This used to be Langtang village". We were shocked. The upward torn trees on the other side of the river started to make sense. There was an avalanche! 400 people had died there. As we descended to cross the rocky landscape, it was impossible to imagine a village there. Now there were just stones. It was heartbreaking. Hunger had vanished, for a while.
Uphill again- everyone was exhausted. Our resting breaks were getting bigger. We approached the long stone walls around 4 ft high, rocky in color, and harmonizing with the rest of the landscape. On the southern side of the walls was snow, probably due to the shade all day long. There were inscriptions on the wall, in Tibetan and Sherpa language. I found out they were prayers. Some more walking and we reached Mundu (3,000 m/9,842 ft), where we found remedy to our hunger with noodles. For the sake of the readers, there are 8 beds in Mundu where you can spend the night, the last camp available before upper Langtang village. I took note of that since it's the first lodge we came across after nearly a day's walk. From there it took us around 2 more hours to complete the day's journey.
We had reached Sindhum (3,555 m/11,663 ft), around one and a half hour away from upper Langtang. When I was done climbing the last hill overlooking the village, I saw Raz waiting for me. Connor and Ashish were far across the village. I have to admit I was slowing down the whole group. But now I had a pretty full stomach. Snow started to appear more frequently, and the temperature was falling with the sun. As Raz and I walked past the Langtang Village, I took a video of the village, which was abandoned too. Lucky we found two places where we could stay. Raz and I were invited by an old Sherpa woman to stay. We stayed in another house where we had very basic food (dal bhat with egg) for which we were more than glad. The lady, our host, struggled through her tiny two-roomed hut as she prepared us beds on the floor. We were too tired to care about comfort – we'd trekked for 10 hours!
"Plans for tomorrow", Ashish exclaimed, "We wake up at 5, and climb Kyanjin Ri". "That way, we get to see the sun-rise." After watching the Milky-way and the full moon lighting up the mountains, we went to sleep. Kyanjin Ri was a hill overlooking Langtang and nearby mountain ranges. Next morning, we were all gearing up with whatever best clothes we had for the ultimate climb. Previously planned for about 1.5 hours, Raz and I took around 2 hours to ascend. Half of the climb was very cold. In fact, our water bottles were frozen. I wondered how those Yaks climbed up the mountain that early, that high- or did they spend the nights on the hill too? It was a steep climb. I stopped once in a while to look back! A rocky mountain behind us-as majestic as rocks could be. The higher I climbed, the better the view became. On the way we spotted some pheasants, hawks, and of course, more Yaks.
Yaks, yes they are aggressive but I just wanted a picture. I was nearly at the top of the hill. If Ashish hadn't seen a Yak charging at my back, and chased it away with a stone, it would have been a very unlucky experience for me. For future trek enthusiasts, know before you go.
Stones were clustered at various points to mark the "Don't cross this line" zone. It was a cliff we were standing on, and the other side was very steep. You don't want to fall over there. "It's crazy, and I'm sure it will be pretty cold until you wait for the rescue. Better to be patient" Ashish said. I nodded with utmost belief. We were on top of Kyanjin Ri at 4,773 meters / 15660 feet.
On the north, the mighty Langtang itself! It was as close as one could get without climbing. Snow as far as you can see, cold as much as you want to get- that was the Langtang feeling for me. Stepping on the snow and feeling the crush on the shoes- that was something! The moment was right there. Was it worth it? Oh yes!
8.30 am and not an inch of determination was weak. "So, let's make it back to Rimche", Raz said. "We will have nothing to do all day if we decide to stay overnight here", he added. "Well then, first we needed to complete the downhill trek back to the village then", Ashish said.
Off we went. Downhill- Dal bhat-Mundu-glaciers-rivers-horses-Yaks- like everything was reversing. At least we knew where we were camping then. But we had little time. So we walked hard. We had to reach Rimche before sunset, if possible.
We ditched the diversion as we saw some local people opting for it which I strongly DO NOT recommend for anyone until the tracks are restored safely. It is wise to follow the diversion. We found that out after we took the old route. There were round stones upon which we had to walk. I felt a very high risk of disaster anytime in that trek- even with small aftershocks or rain. Great to follow the rules on this one!
At Ghoda Tabela, some horses joined us while we were resting with soar feet, or maybe we joined them. May be they mistook us for their owners, but not for long. They neighed boringly reflecting their lack of interest towards us.
Langoors (white haired and long tailed monkeys), were a treat to watch too, as they jumped from and to branches. After a long walk, swollen feet and hard attitude, we were at Rimche. It was the same hotel where we had stayed on the way to Langtang. There were around 6 trekkers getting ready to leave the next day. As the night fell, we exchanged our experiences and they presented their enthusiasm for the trek. I grabbed a bottle of beer as I no longer had to hold on to the ascending and acclimatization requirements.
Next day, we would trek back to Sherpa Village, Khangjim and Syarbu Besi. It was nearly over.
The hotel/tea-house in Syarbu Besi had hot shower, and wide range of menus, for both of which we were glad. Before dinner, three of us (Raz, me and Connor) took a walk (without our trekking bags!) around the town. Pointing at a hill, I asked them "For how many dollars would you climb that hill right now?" Connor would do it for 1,000 dollars. Raz would do it for 2,000.
We found Chang, a journalist from Singapore-who was here to meet Langtang after the earthquake. He said he loved the trail very much, and this was his third time. Then we talked about social media, photography, life, work, attitudes and even exchanged our contact information. Then I remember we were talking about our next travel plan as we gulped down the dinner. Connor would go back to the States. Raz would like to go to Mustang. I would love to visit Lumbini.
After a while though, we would just go back to our beds and sleep – as we had to wake up early the next day to ride the bus back to Kathmandu.]]>


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12th Economics of Infrastructures Conference Internationalization of Infrastructures Delft, 14ñ15 May 2009
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Telecommunication operators are routing international calls through submarine cables and satellite networks. In the same fashion, high voltage transmission lines are interconnecting at the continental scale. These technical systems are operated by multinational companies that, for economy of scale and coordination of operations, often merge infrastructure services between countries. They fall under the control of international bodies that edict norms such as the obligation of universal service. Regarding water infrastructure, European Union directives and governance approaches are pushing towards the internationalization of questions pertaining to rivers and deltas. All these facts, and many others, relate to the internationalization of infrastructures.
We will address this theme at the 12th Annual International Conference on the Economics of Infrastructures. We have invited leading experts from academia, business and politics to discuss it and provide their views for the way ahead. Internationalization of infrastructures addresses the increasing interconnection of infrastructure activities across countries borders, and, as a consequence, the need to develop international governance to monitor and control important technical and economic parameters like traffic flows, investments or prices. Hence we will raise issues related to supra-national regulation, technical coordination across borders, international economic exchange, converging national interests and international public service obligations.
Many infrastructures have been involved in international activities, for instance telecommunication, postal services, railway, shipping, aviation and, to a certain degree, energy. These sectors were primarily nation-wide systems by respect to their industrial organization, regulation and governance. This situation changed quite significantly at the end of the twentieth century. Firstly technological innovations offered opportunities for far more efficient technical control, management and operation of networks across borders. For instance, operators of railway and aviation are using information and communication technologies for traffic control systems. What is the impact of the increasing international interconnection on technological systems?
Secondly privatized infrastructure firms are evolving into multinationals by developing global business strategies. For instance, national energy providers initiated international exchange of electric power as a back-up facility in case of failures of national power supplies. Nowadays international trade of electricity gains increasing economic importance, accommodated by technological innovations, the evolution of international market arrangements and multi-national market players. What is the effect of market liberalization and changes in industrial organization at the international level?
Thirdly institutional arrangements at the international level affect more and more the operations of infrastructure based markets. Wireless telephony requires, among others, comparable technical standards and economic clearing systems for the allocation of costs. There is a need, hence, for supranational regulation and governance. The European Union is a well known example, but there are many other supranational regulatory bodies such as the Universal Postal Union and the International Telecommunication Union. The increasing technical and economic interrelations between national infrastructures require political cooperation in order to maintain the system services. The increasing importance of supranational regulatory bodies illustrates converging national interests with respect to the operation and management of infrastructures. How is the liberalization of infrastructures shaped by the internationalization of networks and institutions?
We will shed light on these questions at the 12th Annual International Conference on the Economics of Infrastructures. We hope to come with a specific understanding of how the internationalization of infrastructures results in a stronger interdependence of market mechanisms, technological and national systems.
K.M. Paardenkooper
Delft University of Technology
Faculty Technology, Policy and Management
Jaffalaan 5 2628 BX Delft
+31 (0)152781134
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I have had my cars serviced at Ricks for over 10 years. I would not th... read more I have had my cars serviced at Ricks for over 10 years. I would not think of going anywhere else. Beyond their quality of work (which is outstanding) the entire staff is honest and forthright. Its a refreshing change.
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There has been an outraged response to a decision to prevent demonstrations immediately outside the Iraq war inquiry when Tony Blair is questioned tomorrow (29 January).
For British politics, the defining moment of the last decade was on 15 February 2003, when over a million people marched through London to oppose the invasion of Iraq. But the war went ahead despite public opposition. This striking image illustrates two key aspects of the last decade – a government pursuing a thoroughly militaristic agenda, and a public resistant to going along with it.
A judge in the United States has triggered anger by rejecting a case against mercenary soldiers employed in Iraq by the company Blackwater. The news follows international criticism of the behaviour of mercenaries in the country.
Harmeet Singh Sooden, who came to international attention when he was held hostage with other peacemakers in 2005, has joined an international human rights delegation travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan this month.
The United States faces mounting problems in the three leading conflict zones of Afghanistan, Pakistan and Iraq, says Paul Rogers. The escape-route lies not in military escalation but in a change of thinking.
Archbishop of Canterbury Dr Rowan Williams has called for proper protection from violence and abuse for Iranian exiles living in Iraq, citing the situation in Ashraf refugee camp. He hopes British influence can play a role.
A US soldier is to face a court-martial today for refusing to fight after exploring the teachings of Jesus. Travis Bishop rejected an order to deploy to Afghanistan after he reflected on the ethics of war and studied the Bible.
Eight people are reported to have been killed and up to 400 injured after Iraqi forces attacked unarmed Iranian residents of Camp Ashraf, north of Baghdad, this week.
The death of 15 British soldiers in just over a week has sparked calls for an end to the UK's involvement in the war in Afghanistan. A poll shows that the majority of the British public want troops withdrawn by the end of the year.
Today is the UK's first Armed Forces Day. It is a thinly veiled attempt to deflect scrutiny of politicians who have made disastrous decisions about war, says Symon Hill. But sentiment is no substitute for accountability.
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BSc Honours
Talk to us
Key Course Information
Entry Year
Course length
3 year(s)
A-Level Requirements *
Medicine, Health and Life Sciences
Professional Year Out
UCAS Code
Biological Sciences
*Indicative Only. Please see the Course Entry Requirements section for details on subject specific or GCSE requirements.
Zoology is the study of animals, from the simplest invertebrates to the largest land or marine mammals. Simple animals often provide models for the study of higher, more complex species and help drive basic research that transcends the subject boundaries.
Animals interact with each other and with their environment, forming complex relationships such that zoologists need a broad understanding of the living world, life processes and the animal kingdom. Exciting progress is being made in animal biology and behaviour, animal health and welfare and in the management of animal communities, making this the perfect time to study Zoology.
Why Queen's?
Professional Recognition: the most generally appropriate professional body for graduate biologists is the Society of Biology, the leading professional body representing practising scientists, students at all levels and professionals in academia, industry and education.
Placement: past students have gained work placements with organisations such as: the Northern Ireland Environment Agency, Castle Espie, National Trust, North Atlantic Whale Foundation, Ulster Wildlife Trust, Health Service, Forensic Service, Northern Ireland Water, Norbrook Laboratories, Randox Laboratories, The Almac Group, and Moy Park.
Entry Requirements
Selection Criteria
In addition to the entrance requirements below, it is essential that you read the How We Choose Our Students pdf prior to submitting your UCAS application.
Entrance Requirements
BBB including Biology and at least one from Chemistry (preferred), Geography, Mathematics or Physics + GCSE Chemistry grade C or GCSE Double Award Science grades CC + GCSE Mathematics grade C
BBB including Double Award Applied Science + GCSE Biology and Chemistry grade C or GCSE Double Award Science grades CC + GCSE Mathematics grade C
ABB including Biology + GCSE Chemistry grade C or GCSE Double Award Science grades CC + GCSE Mathematics grade C.
Note: it would be an advantage to have studied Chemistry beyond GCSE level.
Irish Leaving Certificate:
H3H3H3H3H4H4/H3H3H3H3H3 including Higher Level grade H3 in Biology and at least one from Chemistry (preferred), Geography, Mathematics or Physics + if not offered at Higher Level then Ordinary Level grade O4 in Chemistry and Mathematics
H3H3H3H3H3H3/H2H3H3H3H3 including Higher Level grade H3 in Biology + O4 in Chemistry + if not offered at Higher Level then grade O4 in Mathematics.
Note: It would be an advantage to have studied Higher Level Chemistry.
International Students
For information on international qualification equivalents, please click on Your Country in the International Students website.
If you are an international student and you do not meet the entrance requirements, you should consider a preparation course at INTO Queen's University Belfast, which will prepare you for successful study on these degree courses. INTO at Queen's is based on the University campus and offers a range of courses including the International Foundation in Engineering and Science.
For students whose first language is not English
An IELTS score of 6.5 with a minimum of 5.5 in each test component or an equivalent acceptable qualification, details of which are available at: http://go.qub.ac.uk/EnglishLanguageReqs
If you need to improve your English language skills before you enter this course, our partner INTO Queen's University Belfast offers a range of English language courses. These intensive and flexible courses are designed to improve your English ability to entry to this degree. Please click the links below for more information:
- English for University Study - an intensive English language and study skills course for successful university study at degree level
- Pre-sessional English - a short intensive academic English course for students starting a degree programme at Queen's University Belfast and who need to improve their English
How To Apply
How to Apply
Applications for admission to full-time undergraduate and sandwich courses at the University should normally be made through the Universities and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS). Full information can be obtained from the UCAS website at: www.ucas.com/apply.
When to Apply
UCAS will start processing applications for entry in Autumn 2017 from 1 September 2016.
The normal closing date for the receipt of applications is 15 January 2017.
For candidates applying to Oxford or Cambridge and for those whose choices include Medicine, Dentistry or Veterinary Medicine/Science the closing date is 15 October 2015.
Currently there are two intakes to Adult Nursing (one in September and the other in February).Those applying for entry in February 2016 should apply prior to 15 January 2015.
Applicants are advised to apply as early as is consistent with having made a careful and considered choice of institutions and courses.
Earlier applicants normally receive decisions more quickly, however, UCAS accepts that some applicants, especially those from outside the UK, may find this difficult. Late applications are, in practice, accepted by UCAS throughout the remainder of the application cycle, but you should understand that they are considered by institutions at their discretion, and there can be no guarantee that they will be given the same full level of consideration as applications received by the advisory closing date.
Take care to enter the details of the institutions and courses clearly and correctly on the application. For Queen's, the institution code name is QBELF and the institution code is Q75. These should be entered in the Choices section of your UCAS application. Please note a Campus Code is not required. For further information on applying to study at Queen's, please click here.
Course Content (including module information)
The BSc in Zoology at Queen's aims to provide students with a broad coverage of the biology of animals and how they interact with other living organisms.
Stage 1
Zoology undergraduates study:
- Biodiversity
- Molecular Basis of Life
- The World of Microorganisms
This module combination provides students, who may be undecided as to their final specialist degree area, with considerable flexibility as they enter Stage 2; at this stage students enrolled in Zoology can move into Marine Biology or Biological Sciences.
Stage 2
Students take the following modules:
- Animal Behaviour
- Animal Biology and Physiology
- Cell Biology 2 OR
- Cell Biology 1
- Ecology and Evolution
- Microbes in Action
- Work Placement
Stage 3
During final year, Zoology students undertake a two-module research project, carried out under the supervision of one or more members of academic staff, and also choose four modules from:
- Conservation Biology
- Future Oceans
- Global Change Biology
- Immunology and Virology
- Research Project
- Parasitology and Zoonoses
The research project generally involves practical work carried out in the field and laboratory or at Queen's University Marine Laboratory in Portaferry, in one of the many active areas of research in the School of Biological Sciences.
Fees & Scholarships
There are different tuition fee and student financial support arrangements for students from Northern Ireland, those from England, Scotland and Wales (Great Britain), and those from the rest of the European Union. Higher education funding arrangements mean that students can study now and pay later.
Further details can be found on our fees and funding section.
Queen's works to ensure that all those who can benefit from a university education have the chance to do so, and a generous system of financial support is in place to help them. Each year Queen's offer a range of scholarships and prize for new students. The most up to date listings are available here.
For international students, information on tuition fees, can be found here. Information on scholarships for international students, can be found here.
Learning and Teaching
At Queen's, we aim to deliver a high quality learning environment that embeds intellectual curiosity, innovation and best practice in learning, teaching and student support to enable students to achieve their full academic potential.
On the BSc (Hons) in Zoology we do this by providing a range of learning experiences which enable our students to engage with subject experts, develop attributes and perspectives that will equip them for life and work in a global society and make use of innovative technologies and a world class library that enhances their development as independent, lifelong learners. Examples of the opportunities provided for learning on this course are:
- Lectures: Introduce basic information about new topics as a starting point for further self-directed private study/reading. Lectures also provide opportunities to ask questions, gain some feedback and advice on assessments (normally delivered in large groups to all year group peers).
- Practicals: Zoology is a laboratory based discipline and as such Queen's puts a significant emphasis on technical training. Within practical sessions you will have opportunities to develop laboratory skills and apply theoretical principles to real-life or practical contexts.
- E-Learning technologies: Information associated with lectures and assignments is often communicated via a Virtual Learning Environment (VLE) called Queen's Online. A range of e-learning experiences are also embedded in the degree through, for example; IT and statistics modules; interactive web-based learning activities; opportunities to use IT programmes associated with design in practicals and project- based work etc.
- Seminars/tutorials: Small group teaching (typically involving 10-20 students) provides significant opportunities to engage with academic staff who have specialist knowledge of the topic, to ask questions of them and to assess your own progress and understanding with the support of peers. You should also expect to make presentations and other contributions to these groups.
- Self-directed study: This is an essential part of life as a Queen's student when important private reading, engagement with e-learning resources, reflection on feedback to date and assignment research and preparation work is carried out.
- Work placements: Students taking Zoology undertake a work-placement after Level 2. This is an invaluable learning and employability enhancement opportunity.
- Supervised projects: In the final year of the course, you will be expected to carry out a significant piece of research on a topic or practical methodology that you have chosen. You will receive support from a supervisor who will guide you in terms of how to carry out your research and will provide feedback to you during the write up stage.
- Personal Tutor: Undergraduates are allocated a Personal Tutor during Level 1 and 2 who meets with them on several occasions during the year to support their academic development. Further details are shown in the section on the Student Guidance Centre.
Career Prospects
Graduates are qualified to take up both scientific and non-scientific careers. These positions encompass areas of innovative research and development of new products, advisory and consultancy work, particularly in companies or organisations concerned with animal and plant health, environmental management, pharmaceutical products and biotechnology.
Graduates pursue careers in teaching, nature conservation and laboratory-based posts in biomedical, industrial, pharmaceutical, academic and government institutions as well as in universities and colleges of higher education. The remainder undertake further training in areas such as computing, administration and management or medicine (human or veterinary), developing their skills from a sound scientific background. Further training also helps them to find employment in a variety of non-biological careers, including public service administration, industrial management, accountancy and computing.
Employers are looking for graduates with generic skills of communication, problem-solving, data analysis, social skills, a range of interests and a record of success. We believe that a degree in Zoology will help our students to develop these skills. For further information on careers see the Institute of Biologywebsite.
Employer Links
The School of Biological Sciences employs a dedicated careers advisor who has developed an extensive portfolio of employers, both nationally and internationally, within the science sector. Advice is also provided on CV preparation, interview techniques and securing summer work or longer placements.
Placement Employers
Our past students have also gained work placement with organisations such as:
Further study
Many students complete higher degrees, either in the UK or overseas, before embarking on a career in medical, agricultural and environmental research. Students can choose from a wide range of Masters programmes at Queen's, as well as a comprehensive list of research topics. These are shown within the School website.
Other Career-related information: Queen's is a member of the Russell Group and, therefore, one of the 20 universities most-targeted by leading graduate employers. Queen's students will be advised and guided about career choice and, through the Degree Plusinitiative, will have an opportunity to seek accreditation for skills development and experience gained through the wide range of extra-curricular activities on offer. See Queen's University Belfast fullEmployability Statementfor further information.
Degree Plus and other related initiatives: Recognising student diversity, as well as promoting employability enhancements and other interests, is part of the developmental experience at Queen's. Students are encouraged to plan and build their own, personal skill and experiential profile through a range of activities including; recognised Queen's Certificates, placements and other work experiences (at home or overseas), Erasmus study options elsewhere in Europe, learning development opportunities and involvement in wider university life through activities, such as clubs, societies, and sports.
Queen's actively encourages this type of activity by offering students an additional qualification, the Degree Plus Award (and the related Researcher Plus Award for PhD and MPhil students). Degree Plus accredits wider experiential and skill development gained through extra-curricular activities that promote the enhancement of academic, career management, personal and employability skills in a variety of contexts. As part of the Award, students are also trained on how to reflect on the experience(s) and make the link between academic achievement, extracurricular activities, transferable skills and graduate employment. Participating students will also be trained in how to reflect on their skills and experiences and can gain an understanding of how to articulate the significance of these to others, e.g. employers.
Overall, these initiatives, and Degree Plus in particular, reward the energy, drive, determination and enthusiasm shown by students engaging in activities over-and-above the requirements of their academic studies. These qualities are amongst those valued highly by graduate employers.
Assessment & Feedback
Assessment (general): The way in which you are assessed will vary according to the Learning objectives of each module. Some modules are assessed solely through project work or written assignments. Others are assessed through a combination of coursework and end of semester examinations. Details of how each module is assessed are shown in the Student Handbook which is provided to all students during their first year induction.
Feedback (general): As students progress through their course at Queen's they will receive general and specific feedback about their work from a variety of sources including lecturers, module co-ordinators, placement supervisors, personal tutors, advisers of study and peers. University students are expected to engage with reflective practice and to use this approach to improve the quality of their work. Feedback may be provided in a variety of forms including:
- Feedback provided via formal written comments and marks relating to work that you, as an individual or as part of a group, have submitted.
- Face to face comment. This may include occasions when you make use of the lecturers' advertised "office hours" to help you to address a specific query.
- Placement employer comments or references.
- Online or emailed comment.
- General comments or question and answer opportunities at the end of a lecture, seminar or tutorial.
- Pre-submission advice regarding the standards you should aim for and common pitfalls to avoid. In some instances, this may be provided in the form of model answers or exemplars which you can review in your own time.
- Feedback and outcomes from practical classes.
- Comment and guidance provided by staff from specialist support services such as, Careers, Employability and Skills or the Learning Development Service.
Once you have reviewed your feedback, you will be encouraged to identify and implement further improvements to the quality of your work.
Visit Us
Visit Queen's to sense the atmosphere of our historic campus, tour our world-class facilities, and experience for yourself the exceptional learning environment we provide. Find out when our next Open Days are, or arrange a guided tour to suit you.
Other courses you may like
If you'd like more information on admissions, how to apply or studying at Queen's please get in touch.Get in touch
Or connect with us on social media:
Latest research publications
Or find out more about our latest research at the school
- The influence of genotype information on psychiatrists' treatment recommendations: more experienced clinicians know better what to ignore
- Evaluation of an alternative spectroscopic approach for aflatoxin analysis: Comparative analysis of food and feed samples with UPLC-MS/MS
- Stimulating Neoblast-Like Cell Proliferation in Juvenile Fasciola hepatica Supports Growth and Progression towards the Adult Phenotype In Vitro
- Effect of implementation of a preconception counselling resource for women with diabetes: A population based study
- The nutritional value for dairy cow of wheat grain and wheat co-products from bioethanol production
For entrance requirements
E: firstname.lastname@example.com
For course information
The School Manager
School of Biological Sciences
E: firstname.lastname@example.com
W: http://www.qub.ac.uk/bb
For entrance requirements
E: email@example.com
For course information
The School Manager
School of Biological Sciences
E: email@example.com
W: http://www.qub.ac.uk/bb
For entrance requirements
E: email@example.com
For course information
The School Manager
School of Biological Sciences
E: email@example.com
W: http://www.qub.ac.uk/bb
Latest Research Publications
The links below will take you to the latest Queen's Research publications in the PURE portal.
- The influence of genotype information on psychiatrists' treatment recommendations: more experienced clinicians know better what to ignore
- Evaluation of an alternative spectroscopic approach for aflatoxin analysis: Comparative analysis of food and feed samples with UPLC-MS/MS
- Stimulating Neoblast-Like Cell Proliferation in Juvenile Fasciola hepatica Supports Growth and Progression towards the Adult Phenotype In Vitro
- Effect of implementation of a preconception counselling resource for women with diabetes: A population based study
- The nutritional value for dairy cow of wheat grain and wheat co-products from bioethanol production
Biological Sciences
School of Biological Sciences
Medical Biology Centre
97 Lisburn Road


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