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The Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites in O'Fallon, MO is located just west of St. Louis. Our hotel is convenient to Interstate 40 and I-64 and is near several local attractions and businesses making it the perfect
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The Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites in O'Fallon, MO is located just west of St. Louis. Our hotel is convenient to Interstate 40 and I-64 and is near several local attractions and businesses making it the perfect hotel for travelers looking for lodging in O'Fallon.
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Budget Rebuilding Cylinder HeadsWritten by Jeff Smith on May 1, 2010 Performance Is All About Airflow, So Let's Dive Into . . .
Rebuilding Cylinder Heads - Why? Car crafting is all about power-enough to run 12s in the quarter-mile and spin the tires at will. But not everybody can afford a shiny new set of aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads. The next best thing if you can't afford a trick set of alloy castings is to lay a little TLC on the heads you have. Last month, we introduced you to Steve Strope and his stepson Seth's '66 Mopar Coronet. While the resurrection bodywork continues on that somewhat abused B-Body, the pair also opened up the 318 Mopar engine that will eventually find its way into the engine compartment. The Coronet's original powerplant was an ancient polyspherical 318 that only the most diehard Mopar fan could learn to love. Instead, the pair chose a '70 LA version that promised to be in better shape. At first, the Strope plan was to perform a quickie Krylon rebuild by just cleaning and painting the low-mileage donor motor while adding an intake and a cam. That's when the, "Well, as long as we've got it apart" song started. Before the final note had played out, the heads fell off in anticipation of a quick valve job. We took the heads to Jim Grubbs Motorsports where ace machinist Ryan Peart transformed the greasy leakers into like-new castings.
Most guys don't have machine shops in their garages, so the focus of this exercise is to point out areas where a couple of simple and inexpensive machining steps can improve airflow for cheap and to illustrate just what goes into a quality rebuild on even stock iron cylinder heads. Check it out.
Guide to Rebuilding Cylinder Heads
The biggest issue with rebuilding cylinder heads is valve stem and guide wear. Generally, used heads will have loose guides that allow the valves to move laterally relative to the valve seat. This movement tends to beat up the seats, deteriorating their condition, which also diminishes the seal under cylinder pressure. If this isn't bad enough, loose guides allow the valves more room to move around, which trashes the valveguide seals. From this short description, it should be clear that a set of properly installed and clearanced valveguides is essential in the build process. So that's where we will start.
Rebuilding Cylinder Heads: Valve Grinding
Seat Work
In ancient times (about 20 years ago), seat preparation was performed using a series of grinding stones to establish the seat angles. Generally, this involved three stones that were dressed at the specific angle required. The accepted standard valve seat for a typical performance intake and exhaust valve seat uses 30-, 45-, and 60-degree angles. The 45-degree seat matches the angle ground on the valve. The 60-degree angle is also often referred to the throat angle that directs the air (on the intake side) from the port toward the seat. Then the 30-degree top angle helps radius the flow into the chamber. Different cylinder heads can and do respond to different combinations of angles, but the classic 30-45-60 is tough to beat.
With the advent of the dedicated valve-cutting tool machines such as the Serdi, Sunnen, and others, the machinist can specify a custom-made cutter that machines all three seat angles and widths simultaneously. Not only is this faster and far more consistent through all 16 valve seats, but it also ensures far more seat concentricity, which also helps flow.
Head Assembly
With the machining complete, all that's left to do is assemble the heads. We went with an Edelbrock valvespring to match the camshaft, since the springs were really inexpensive. There are a couple more steps that include choosing the right valveguide seals and valvesprings and ensuring that we have plenty of clearance for our new cam. The cam is a mild Edelbrock Performer-Plus with only 0.420-inch valve lift, so coil bind and retainer-to-seal clearance aren't issues. We also upgraded the intake seals to Viton-style positive seals that mount on the outside of the guide. Once the spring clearances were verified, Peart assembled the heads with a little lube on the stems, and we carried them back to Strope's shop to bolt them on the engine.
|Valve stem to guide
|Intake, 0.001 Exhaust, 0.0015
|Valve seal to retainer
|Coil bind
|Installed height
|Clean and Magnaflux
|Install new guides
|Back-cut valves (8)
|Surface heads
These are JGM prices that may not be typical of other machine shop prices, but they will give you an idea of what the operations cost.
|- 4%
Note that our new valve job really didn't improve the flow, which is not unusual. The change that really helped was the 30-degree back-cut to the intake valve. Note how this improved the flow at 0.200-inch valve lift the most and then fell off, actually hurting flow slightly at 0.400 inch. Since our cam's max lift is only 0.420 inch, this should be worth a little torque if nothing else.
More Photos From This Article View Slideshow
After disassembling the heads, the first thing Peart did was degrease the castings. These are 2843675 castings with 1.78/1.50-inch valves that use rocker shafts instead of individual studs. The center two exhaust ports are siamesed and employ an odd dogleg design that can best be described as weak. The intake ports measure a small 119 cc, while the chamber measures 68 cc.To accurately establish valveguide clearance, Peart first measured the existing valves and then used that spec to establish a guide for a dial bore gauge. The original valves were in surprisingly good shape, so we decided to reuse them. The clearance turned out to be 0.004 inch on the intake and 0.006 inch on the exhaust. This demanded new guides.The first step in rebuilding the guides is to ream the original cast-iron guides to make way for the replacement inserts. This is a critical step, since the guide should be maintained perpendicular to the seat as much as possible.As an option, it is possible to purchase stock replacement valves with oversized stems that are designed to compensate for guide wear and bypass the guide work. This is an option you might consider, especially if you have to replace the valves due to excessive stem wear.While entire replacement guides can be used, bronze wall guide inserts retain cylinder head integrity yet produce an excellent foundation. These bronze K-Line guide liners also improve lubricity, allowing a tighter valve stem clearance that improves durability.The guides are chosen in an attempt to create as close to the desired inside diameter as possible. Pressing them in from the bottom collapses the opening in the guide, creating a slightly undersized inside diameter.With all the guides in place, Peart pressed a broach through the guide from the top to bond the guide to the head, which improves heat transfer characteristics.Peart then passed a hone through each guide to establish the ideal inside diameter. This is somewhat time consuming since it requires quite a bit of honing and then measuring. This is one area where the money you pay for good machining pays off.
Besides guide wear, it's also a good idea to check the valve face margin. The margin (arrow) is the portion of the valve between the face and the outside diameter of the sealing face. A wide margin is essential especially for exhaust valves. Valve margins often become very thin if subjected to excessive valve face grinding. A thin exhaust valve margin not only decreases flow but can also overheat, which can contribute to detonation or pre-ignition problems.Since valve stem wear on the OE valves was acceptable, Peart first subjected them to a quick stem honing to ensure a square surface from which to work.Virtually all performance valve jobs use a 45-degree angle on the valve. Some Pontiacs did experiment with 30-degree seats, which improves low-lift flow but at the cost of flow at higher valve lifts. The key to grinding the valves is to remove as little material as possible to establish a concentric sealing surface.We elected to reuse the stock valves to save a little cash (that Coronet is gonna need a lot of bodywork). However, we did try a simple 30-degree back-cut (arrow) on the intake valve to see if that would help the flow. This additional angle generally helps low- and mid-lift flow. It's a simple trick that your machinist can perform during the valve-grinding step.The advantage of a performance aftermarket valve like a Manley, for example (left), is not just in the stainless material. Most factory valves employ a sharp radius from the stem to the valve seat. Worse yet, many exhibit a ditch or undercut directly behind the seat that decreases flow. Depending on the application, new performance valves are only slightly more expensive than stock replacement pieces. Note the swirl polish and gentle radius from the stem to the seat in the aftermarket valve on the left.This is the stock chamber after cleaning. You can see that if there are three angles on the intake seat, they are very thin. Oddly, before and after flow testing revealed that we did not improve airflow even with a performance-oriented valve job.Peart set up the heads in JGM's Sunnen SGM-1500 machine and efficiently cut all the intake and exhaust seat angles using a specific cutter for each of the two different seats. In this case, JGM chose a slightly different 38-degree top cut along with the standard 45-degree seat, followed by a radius in the throat as opposed to the typical 60-degree angle.This photo illustrates the three angles on the intake and exhaust valve seats. A very minor amount of grinding just beneath the throat cut would help the flow. The stock throat diameter on this Mopar exhaust port measures almost 85 percent of the valve diameter (1.270 versus 1.500). The rule of thumb is the throat diameter should not exceed 88 percent for the exhaust, which in this case means there is very little room for modification. On the intake side, the recommended percentage is a maximum of 90 percent. This Mopar intake measured 1.48 inches, which calcs out to 83 percent on a 1.78-inch valve.While the cam we decided to use in the 318 is very mild, it doesn't hurt to check for installed height, which is the distance from the spring seat to the bottom side of the retainer. As you can see, with a 0.030-inch-thick spacer, the height measures 1.630 inches. The spec is 1.650, so we're slightly tighter, which should bump up the seat pressure to around 95 pounds.
There are several types of valve seals. We decided to use a positive-style seal (left) instead of an umbrella seal (middle) that was on the heads. Another style of umbrella is the hard-plastic style (right). On the exhaust side, we used new O-rings that are placed on the valve in a groove just under the retainer. This directs a little more oil to the exhaust side.


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Kanye West and Kim Kardashian have further fueled reports they are planning a lavish French wedding this summer after the couple was spotted visiting the Palace of Versailles over the weekend.
The rapper proposed to Kardashian last year and the bride-to-be recently confirmed they were planning to exchange vows abroad this summer.
Gossips have suggested the pair will wed in Europe and now it seems the Palace is the place for the nuptials. West has previously said an outrageous wedding is in the works, and will include, among other things, fighter jets.
Insiders claim West and Kardashian were planning their wedding ceremony as they wandered around the grounds of the historical estate.


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This demonstration video discusses and shows the features of the Stahlsac Cortez Convertible Mesh Backpack/Duffel. The Cortez Mesh Duffel is large enough to carry a complete set of gear. You can load your gear in and dunk the whole bag in the rinse tank. There are also backpack shoulder straps in hidden panel in case you want to hold it on your shoulder. The Cortez bag is constructed by a reinforced underside with 420 Denier nylon packcloth.


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Building A One-Off Bumper And Roll Pan Install - Rear End Rehab - TechWritten by on May 13, 2010 Building A One-Off Bumper And Installing A Roll Pan
One of the liberties many people take when it comes to classic trucks is the treatment of the front and rear bumpers. It's common to find an old truck with a "farm fix" bumper made from 3-inch C-channel or galvanized pipe. Oftentimes these "upgrades" are stout enough to push a locomotive and, more often than not, isn't that good looking. There are many reasons for this, from pure necessity to the fact that many truck manufacturers offered bumpers as an optional upgrade. Whatever the reason, it should come as no surprise that when I originally bought my '52 F-1 project, it was sans both bumpers. Back in the February 2010 issue, we tackled the problem up front by installing a pair of one-off stainless nerf bars. But I wasn't so sure what to do out back. I didn't care for the stock F-1 rear bumper and wanted to continue with the custom truck theme and knew it was simply a matter of getting out in the shop and having a good stare at the back end of my truck.
Thankfully, the tailgate and rear stake posts in my bed had already been fixed a few years back, so the view from the rear was already looking pretty good. What wasn't looking good was the rear crossmember and leaf-spring shackles that hung down from underneath, in plain view. This would need to be remedied while I tackled the bumper situation.
What I came up with was a 2-inch stainless tube bumper slightly wider than the bed that would mount nice and tight against the rear cross sill, just below the tailgate. I decided to go with stainless since it will match the front nerf bars when they're polished and I don't have to deal with the headache of finding a good chrome shop and all the ills that come with chrome finishes (peeling, flaking, discoloration, rust, etc.). It also allows me to removes the parts and repolish them if the need arises, something that isn't so easy or cheap to do with a chromed part.
Fabricating and mounting the bumper was fairly straightforward. Once it was cut to length using a chop saw, I ensured that the ends were nice and square using my Harbor Freight combo belt / disc sander. From there, it was just a matter of drilling the mounting holes in the rear cross sill and welding the two stainless studs in the correct location on the backside of the bumper and bolting it up.
Once the bumper was in place, it was glaringly obvious that something needed to be done to the area directly below the backside of the bed. For that, I called up the guys at National Parts Depot (NPD) and ordered up a smooth roll pan with license box recess (PN F-40544-1B). The roll pan showed up with plenty of extra sheetmetal that allowed for it to be installed in a number of ways, yielding it to a wide variety of applications. For my F-1, I wanted to keep the back end nice and streamlined, so a bit of trimming using my HTP MicroCut 301 was in order to allow the roll pan to install high and tight against the bottom side of the bed. It took a few tries to get it just right, but when everything was said and done, I was quite pleased and the back end of the old Ford was looking way better.
More Photos From This Article View Slideshow
Here's the section of 2-inch stainless tubing that I'll be using for the rear bumper. A pair of jack stands are used to move it around to find the relation that looks best in regards to the tailgate.I adjusted the jack stands until the bumper was nice and snug with the bottom of the tailgate before I marked it to be trimmed for the proper width.Since the whole idea behind the bumper is to keep a relatively low profile, I decided to let it hang 1/2-inch over the width of the bed at either side. Here, you can see the trimmed tube in place.With the location decided, it is time to plot out the mounting holes in the rear cross sill. First, the center is marked, followed by the two mounting scribes.I wanted the hardware to be hidden from view, giving the bumper a "floating" look. Using two stainless steel socket cap bolts that I cut the heads off of, the new stud was welded to the bumper tube. The section where the stud meets the bumper is on the shank portion of the bolt so the threads remain undisturbed during the welding process.
The first thing I did was to mock up the roll pan in its stock guise. To do this required removing the bumper since the pan was so long and needed to butt up against the bottom of the tailgate. It's still too long so after some careful measurements were made...This was done to allow us to fold the panel on the line, giving a mounting surface for the side panels of the roll pan. Note the 1/4-inch hole that will serve as the mounting point under the bed.For the back side of the roll pan, I simply drilled and tapped the rear cross sill and installed the roll pan directly to it.As much as was removed from the original roll pan, it was still a bit clunky at the back end. My original intention was to make a low profile roll pan so as to hide the back part of the frame and the spring shackles, not so much add an entire panel under the bed.So back to the plasma cutter I went and another few inches were hacked off the top of the roll pan. The other thing I observed was by moving the roll pan underneath the bed as opposed to flush with the rear cross sill, it gave the appearance of being further streamlined as it broke up the back panel. Instead of your eye seeing a panel that was flat from the top of the tailgate to the bottom of the roll pan, the roll pan is moved under the bed and the bumper is back at the bottom of the tailgate, visually.


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See the top 20 most helpful scuba gear reviews
Average Customer Review: based on 5 reviews.Rating: Awesome fin for diving/spear fishing
Hi i am a size 10 / 11 in australian shops what size fins do i need to order from you? thanks for your time. And is it free postage to aussie land.
From the charts I've found online, an Aussie 10/11 would be a US 10 1/2- 11 1/2. As for the shipping to Australia, we do not see that info here internally as we are based in the US and only see the North American version of our shopping cart. Any items with free shipping will be marked as such on the site as you shop.


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Which Camera to Buy for Astrophotography?
Posted 24 November 2012 - 11:59 AM
1. Are 'pure' astro cameras (such as SBIG) better choice than a Canon DSLR (if people get the Canon because it can be used for regular photography, I don't have any need for using it for regular photography)?
2. Color vs. B&W (I'd normally pick color, but saw something that might mean color has less resolution?)?
3. Views from owners / others on which camera to get?
Since I'm not sure which forum to post this in, I've posted in Equipment and Beginning Imaging. Thanks for any answers / suggestions.
Pgh, PA
Ioptron IEQ45M; Celestron 11" XLT; Orion 120mm EON; Orion 80mm CFT; Meade ACF LX 90; Meade ACF LS-6; Meade ETX 90PE. Various Celestron X-Cells and Meade 5000 HDs, Orion 12mm reticle, Astrotech 1.25" dialectric diagonal, Antares f/6.3 SCT reducer and Meade plossl set. Orion Mini-guider package; Orion Off-axis guider. Meade DSI II color and Orion Starshoot Deepspace video camera. Maxim DL v.5.
Posted 24 November 2012 - 12:56 PM
First of al imaging planets and imaging deep sky are two quite different things, requiring different cameras if you want optimal results. Since I have no experience with planetary imaging i'll stick to deep sky with my recommendations.
A dedicated deep sky camera like SBIG, Atik,... is better than a dslr. They have better sensitivity, lower noice due to cooling, are native 16 bit cameras so they have better dynamic range,... So technically they are better in every respect than a dslr. The drawback is that for a similarly sized sensor you will pay substantially more for a deep sky camera than for a DSLR.
Color vs b&w depends on a whole lot of factors. And truth be told, resolution is the least important one of them. My persoanl preference goes towards a b&w camera due to the following reasons: higher sensitivity, more versatility (you can do narrow band imaging like H-alpha) The downside of this however is that you need a filterwheel and filters, those can add substantially to the cost of your system. If you live in a heavily light polluted area then i'd definately steer away from a color camera. But in the end with both color and b&w cameras similarly exellent results can be obtained. Usually color cameras require a bit less imaging time but at the cost of increased processing time to get the most of the images.
I persoanlly own an SBIG ST2000XM camera with CFW8 filterwheel, baader RGB and narrow band filters and an UHC-S filter. I bought the camera second had for a good discount over a new one. The added bonus of the ST series cameras of SBIG is the internal guiding chip. making guiding a breeze as you don't have to deal with off axis guiders or guide scopes.
Kind regards,
Posted 24 November 2012 - 01:52 PM
Also as Wouter mentioned planets and deep sky are two different things. You can do planets pretty decently with a $100 webcam and an adapter so given your budget I'm just going to assume you want to spend it all on the deep sky camera.
If you have one you should start out with a DSLR. It will save you some money and you can take some nice images with it. Plus they're great for wide fields and generally easy to use. However if you don't own one and you don't have any desire to use it during the day then I wouldn't recommend one.
Color CCDs (OSCs)
These have the benefit of ease of use like DSLRs, but most of them have cooling. And if you get a CCD, you're going to want something that can be cooled and set at a particular temperature. This will make the image less noisy and will help you when you get to more advanced processing techniques like dark subtraction. These are generally more expensive than a DSLR but they have their benefits. I generally recommend most folks starting here as you can get good images fairly easily and worry about other areas when you're just starting out.
Mono CCDs
These are going to give you the best quality of images and the most flexibility. They're also the most difficult to learn and require additional processing steps to get good color images. Having said that there are things you can do with a Mono CCD that you can't do very well with a OSC or DSLR like narrowband imaging. This is where most people that consider themselves "serious imagers" will generally end up (not necessarily start out). If you have some buddies that are imagers and use Mono CCDs then this might be a good route for you. If not i would recommend going with an OSC to start out.
Now let's talk about your scopes a little bit...I'm assuming you're going to go with what you have listed?
Celestron 11" XLT - I wouldn't recommend you start out imaging with this one. It will make a great planetary scope! But if you are planning on starting imaging with this on I would highly recommend against it! All the focal length that this scope has will drive you crazy when guiding!
Orion 120mm EON, Orion 80mm CFT - These are both good candidates for beginner imaging scope. They have a relatively short focal length (the shorter the better to start out!) and they're both fairly well corrected with regards to chromatic aberration. You'll want to use one of these to start with.
As for the actual camera model...the 8300 chips are pretty popular these days and fairly reasonably priced. All major manufacturers have a model or two that contains this chip available in both color and mono. Plus the pixel size will match up nicely with your refractors.
I would do some research and figure out what works best for you. But if you go with a CCD you'll likely want the following things:
- Temperature controlled cooler - the more it can cool the better. I would recommend dual stage (not single stage)
- Even illumination shutter - this isn't a deal breaker but they're nice to have for lower exposures
- Cameras that use 1.25" or 36mm filters are nice as the filters are less expensive than ones that take 2" filters. (assuming you decide to get a mono camera)
- Image download time - some models take over 30 seconds to download a full image frame!
- Future growth - things like Canon lens adapters and the availablity of accessories and adapters for the camera (assuming it needs special adapters)
Posted 24 November 2012 - 01:58 PM
Lots of things to consider here. Where are you planning to image from? I've imaged from many locations around PGH and have opinions (not that they're worth much!) on what kind of (satisfying) imaging can be done from different levels of light pollution.
What kind of targets are you going after? Any main interests at this point?
What kind of equipment are you matching the camera to? I see lots of equipment in your signature but recommendations change based on a C11 vs. an 80mm ED scope.
I still shoot with a DSLR, a Color CCD (QHY8), color webcam, monochrome video camera, and a mono 8300 camera depending on location (light pollution), target type, and imaging scope. I find they all have their uses.
Posted 24 November 2012 - 02:32 PM
If 'dual use' and cost aren't issues definitely go for a dedicated astro-cam. Imo QSI is the 'state of the art' in construction and value. But they start at $3k. The Atik 314L+ is probably the most popular choice under $2k. There's other things to consider besides cost however. Ideally a camera should be matched to the optics taking field of view and arc second per pixel into account.
BUT...there's really no reason you shouldn't be able to get satisfactory images with that DSI II. Details aside all digital cameras simply produce a grid of numbers that get translated into brightness and color values. Strange as it sounds the camera itself is one of the least critical elements involved in getting good images.
Getting your equipment 'tuned' to capture good data and learning how to calibrate and process that data is far and away more important than what camera you use.
I'd say try Nebulosity 3 with that DSI II and continue learning the ropes. By the time you're getting decent images from it you'll probably 'know' what camera you want next.
Posted 24 November 2012 - 03:02 PM
Just a couple nits to pick...
...when you get to more advanced processing techniques like dark subtraction....
Mono CCDs
These are going to give you the best quality of images and the most flexibility. They're also the most difficult to learn and require additional processing steps to get good color images....
'Dark subtraction' is not an "advanced processing technique". It's the most basic minimum requirement and generally the first processing skill to be learned.
Mono cameras are only 'more difficult' IF you try to do color imaging with them before you can even produce a good b/w image. Using a mono camera to produce b/w images is IMO the easiest way to begin climbing the learning curve.
Posted 24 November 2012 - 03:34 PM
'Dark subtraction' is not an "advanced processing technique". It's the most basic minimum requirement and generally the first processing skill to be learned.
While I do consider dark subtraction to be pretty basic I think there are other skills that are generally more important to learn before going down the calibration path, such as stacking, stretching, etc. You can still get good images when starting out without darks. And when someone is just starting out they're going to want results sooner than later to stay interested. While darks and calibration frames are important I don't think they're 100% required when you're starting...IMHO.
Mono cameras are only 'more difficult' IF you try to do color imaging with them before you can even produce a good b/w image. Using a mono camera to produce b/w images is IMO the easiest way to begin climbing the learning curve.
This is true and a good point. Most people see Hubble images and what to see color images in all their glory. However some of the favorite images that I've taken have actually been b/w.
Once I get some time I do plan on adding S2 and O3 to these images. But you can do a lot with b/w. And that is a good avenue to get you into the camera you'll eventually be using if you stay in this hobby, provided you'll be happy with the initial b/w results.
Posted 24 November 2012 - 04:17 PM
If we're talking recent generation Sony chips perhaps but even there skipping darks involves other techniques that are 'advanced' imo, such as dithering and bad pixel maps. Developing post processing skill on uncalibrated data, sooner or later, makes the need for darks and flats obvious. Whether that occurs before or after the novice is actually happy with the images he's producing will depend on how clean his camera chip is, and his expectations.
While I do consider dark subtraction to be pretty basic I think there are other skills that are generally more important to learn before going down the calibration path, such as stacking, stretching, etc. You can still get good images when starting out without darks. And when someone is just starting out they're going to want results sooner than later to stay interested. While darks and calibration frames are important I don't think they're 100% required when you're starting...IMHO.
Posted 24 November 2012 - 11:15 PM
Posted 25 November 2012 - 05:18 AM
Posted 26 November 2012 - 04:12 PM
A mono camera and filters will always give better results than a camera with a color chip but the image processing is a bit more complex. For your price range, I would consider set point cooling to be one of the most important features. Used cameras can often allow you to get a lot more camera for the same price as a new one.
I'd also spend some time using trial versions of different image processing programs to see if you find one that's a great fit with your philosophy of image processing. Photoshop is expensive and has limited capabilities for doing initial processing of astro images unless you purchase additional plugins. Nebulosity, ImagesPlus (ny favorite), Pixinsight, Registax and others are ones to try.
Posted 26 November 2012 - 06:02 PM
I want to acquire a decent camera for astrophotography. I want to image the planets and deep space objects. I recently acquired the IEQ 45M and various OTAs and other stuff to do astrophotography. I have a DSI II I've been experimenting with trying to learn how to do it. I've had trouble trying to use it with Maxim and have decided to take the plunge for a better camera. I want to spend around $2K, but willing to go up to $3K. I've seen adds for lots of cameras (SBIG, Celestron, Canon DSLR, ATIK, QSI). Since I'm a newbie to Astronomy and esp. photography, I have several questions would like input on in choosing a camera for astrophotography. Any suggestions or advice on any of these is welcome.
As others have mentioned, deep sky cameras and planetary imaging cameras are completely different; don't try to combine these two requirements or you will end up with something that is good at neither. Planetary imaging requires small pixels (oversampling) and a high frame rate (multiple frames per second) but does not require cooling or a large chip size. Deep sky cameras generally do not have small pixels--or, at least, not as small as planetary--and cooling/control of dark current is emphasized since most exposures will be many seconds or minutes long. Most people want as large a chip as they can afford in a deep sky imaging camera since this provides the most flexibility in framing your subjects.
1. Are 'pure' astro cameras (such as SBIG) better choice than a Canon DSLR (if people get the Canon because it can be used for regular photography, I don't have any need for using it for regular photography)?
I think it depends on what you want your experience to be like, and on what subjects you wish to photograph. DSLR's, even if you don't intend to use them for terrestrial photography, have some big advantages over astronomical CCD cameras. Specifically, because they are mass produced they provide the cheapest way to get a large chip. Even an inexpensive DSLR is likely to have a 12mm x 18mm chip in it, and you can get cameras up to 24mm x 36mm in your price range. Plus, you don't need to drag a computer into the field with you if you are imaging with a DSLR (though autoguiding will eventually push you there anyway). These advantages come with some costs, though... DSLR's are not cooled, so they have higher thermal noise levels. They can be harder to focus accurately than CCD cameras if you are not using a computer screen. They are generally much less sensitive to Hydrogen Alpha signals (emission nebulae) unless you modify them by removing/replacing the IR filter. Still, they are a great way to get into the hobby, but I think most astrophotographers who stay involved in the hobby eventually move to a dedicated CCD camera.
2. Color vs. B&W (I'd normally pick color, but saw something that might mean color has less resolution?)?
It's true that black and white cameras have the potential for more resolution. Since there is no Bayer matrix requiring interpolated brightness levels, a monochrome camera will, under certain circumstances, give more resolution. What are those circumstances? Well, the pixels need to be the right size for your aperture, focal length, and seeing conditions. As your pixels get smaller and smaller, it becomes more and more likely that a color camera will actually be able to capture the same spatial resolution as a monochrome camera. This is called "oversampling". It maximizes resolution, but at the cost of lower signal-to-noise ratio (meaning your pictures may look more grainy).
Net result: If you want the best quality image and aren't worried about additional processing time and complexity, you are probably better off with a monochrome camera. If you are willing to sacrifice (potentially) a small amount of image quality for some convenience in your processing, go with a one-shot color camera. A couple of other little things to keep in mind... One-shot color cameras are generally a bit less expensive since you won't need to buy color filters or a filter wheel. They (or a DSLR) are also a virtual requirement if you are going to be using Hyperstar--a specific way of using a Schmidt Cassegrain telescope with the camera mounted in front of the corrector plate. In this situation, color filter wheels simply take up too much space. Also, keep in mind that while monochrome cameras might require more computer time for a given result, they generally don't require any more data collection time--even if you are looking to produce a color image. Generally, a 1 hour integrated exposure with a one-shot color camera will be roughly comparable in "depth" to a 20/15/15/15 minute set of exposures through LRGB filters on a monochrome camera if you have the luminance frame set to bin 1x1 and the color frames set to bin 2x2. This is a rough guideline only, and there is some variation from subject to subject and camera to camera, but don't expect one-shot color cameras to shorten the total amount of exposure time you need--they don't. Finally, I will mention that monochrome cameras are much better suited for narrow band imaging--using Ha, OIII, and SII filters for emission nebulae, super nova remnants, planetary nebulae, and the like.
3. Views from owners / others on which camera to get?
My personal opinion is that, in your price range, the TrueSense 8300 based camera represent the best value going. They have fairly small pixels that are a good match for smaller telescopes, are quite sensitive, have good noise characteristics, give a fairly generous field of view (18mm x 12mm), and are not as expensive as cameras made with less commonly available chips. 8300 based cameras are made by SBIG, Orion, ATIK, FLI, Apogee... The list goes on. To stay within your $3,000 price target, you may need to choose a color version or start out without the filter wheel. Do a little comparison shopping and see. The camera makers with the best reputation (at least in the U.S.) for quality and service are SBIG, FLI, and Apogee. Their cameras are also the most expensive (though SBIG is pretty competitive with their 8300 cameras). Next level down would include manufacturers such as ATIK, Orion (at least for the Parsec cameras), and StarlightXPress. Again, this is subjective, so others might have different opinions. I think the Atik option might be just what you are looking for. Or perhaps a used SBIG/FLI/Apogee camera.
Since I'm not sure which forum to post this in, I've posted in Equipment and Beginning Imaging. Thanks for any answers / suggestions.
Pgh, PA
Ioptron IEQ45M; Celestron 11" XLT; Orion 120mm EON; Orion 80mm CFT; Meade ACF LX 90; Meade ACF LS-6; Meade ETX 90PE. Various Celestron X-Cells and Meade 5000 HDs, Orion 12mm reticle, Astrotech 1.25" dialectric diagonal, Antares f/6.3 SCT reducer and Meade plossl set. Orion Mini-guider package; Orion Off-axis guider. Meade DSI II color and Orion Starshoot Deepspace video camera. Maxim DL v.5.
One last thing to keep in mind in getting started in astrophotography... For planetary imaging, you will want all the aperture and focal length you can get, even if your tracking isn't spot-on-perfect. Your C11, for example, would be a great choice. For deep sky imaging, working with lots of aperture and lots of focal length creates HUGE challenges that will take lots of experience and probably some additional money to overcome. Start out with some of your smaller scopes for deep sky imaging--even if you are imaging galaxies and globulars. Your two small refractors are probably a good way to get going with deep sky imaging. You'll likely want a field flattener.
Posted 27 November 2012 - 03:44 AM
you've a line of scopes in your sigline and there are many options depending on which one you choose.
I'd try and narrow it down a bit by choosing deep space or planetary to start with.
I'm in the club that flatting and dark calibration is a 'square one' concept and practice to learn. Most follow on processing will be blessed by it - especially if you want to stretch the image, and I think that very likely.
Hyperstar is something to consider with the SCT as it allows for wider field and much shorter exposures. If you go that route you'll want a color CCD as filter wheels are large and impractical as far as I know.
Something to consider as well is your level of light pollution and practical exposure length where you will image. I do narrowband as I live and image from within a city. NB requires much longer exposure times and puts a lot on the mount quality, alignment , and guiding.
What makes imaging even more expensive than it is, is buying things more than once. A lot of ways that can happen.
Having MaximDL puts you way ahead of where I began - it's IMO a fantastic 'package', great automated capture / calibration and initial processing tools, guiding, dithereing, and mast folks make compat drivers for it.
Going with your refractor is the other route, and I think a bit easier - just my opinon.
Posted 29 November 2012 - 06:39 PM
I wanted to thank you, Mike, Wouter and others for the thoughtful responses and insights. Regarding the questions over the various equipment which I will use, after reading that the fork mounted scopes like the LX-90 I bought last year were not good for astrophoto., I recently bought the IEQ45M and the three OTAs - the 80mm as the learning tool for DSO photog., the 120mm to do more serious DSO photog. and the 11" SCT mainly for viewing and secondarily for planetary photog. Having read that planetary can easily be done with webcams, the Orion Starshoot Video Camera II which I have and didn't list correctly in my equipment list is a type of webcam. Is it too sensitive for planet imaging since it is designed to display deep space objects?
I've also decided to take the advice to hold off on the CCD imager until I get some more experience with how to do astrophotog. My forays with the DSI II and my LX-90 using Maxim DL have not thus far produced anything (I've found Maxim to be very complex and difficult to understand for a beginner). Since I checked and discovered how relatively cheap Canon DSLRs are, I did pick up a T3i to use along with the DSI II as learning tools before I acquire a CCD imager. Again, I want to thank everyone for the thoughful advice.
Posted 29 November 2012 - 06:50 PM
Thanks for the reply and inquiry about where I'm trying to do imaging. I use the scopes and image near North Park (obviously a major light pollution area) on a deck off of our home (I know that is not a good platform, esp. since it is a wood deck, but I have time contraints and on the ground the view is too obstructed by home and trees and the deck is the easiest, quickest place to set up quickly and I can run inside when it is cold). I've been toying with going to Pine Community Park which has fairly unobstructed views. Where have you gone for imaging (I'm guessing Deer Lakes would be on your list)?
Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:23 PM
Posted 02 December 2012 - 12:04 AM
I used to image from Sq. Hill, Deer Lakes (Wagman Observatory), and Mingo Creek Observatory as well as the AAAP's dark site down in Greene County. I finally moved out of Sq. Hill and setup an observatory on the boarder of Sewickley and Franklin Park which is on par with Deer
Lakes for light pollution. I also purchased some land on the West Virginia boarder as a dark site that I drive about 65 miles to.
Imaging from home is certainly more convenient even if on a deck; I'd just stay off the deck when it's doing it's thing.
Even with the observatory at home now I find the trip to a dark site to be well worth the trouble for imaging in color (galaxies, reflection nebula, dark nebula, etc.) I only image in narrowband or do clusters from home.
The Canon DSLR will serve you well and I still use mine for widefield shots even though I've moved to several dedicated
Posted 02 December 2012 - 12:35 AM
Have you thought about getting a few USB active repeater cables and just imaging from indoors? I've heard of people having good success with scopes on decks using that type of setup so you're not constantly 'bouncing' on the deck as you're imaging. Basically go outside and focus, come back in and start taking photos!
Good luck!
Posted 04 December 2012 - 03:08 PM
That's a great idea. I'll have to look into how to do it. Thanks.
Ioptron IEQ45M; OTAs: Celestron 11" XLT, Orion 120mm EON, and Orion 80mm CFT. Meade ACF 8" LX 90; Meade ACF LS-6; Meade ETX 90PE. Various Celestron X-Cells and Meade 5000 HDs, Orion 12mm reticle, Astrotech 1.25" dialectric diagonal, Antares f/6.3 SCT reducer and Meade plossl set. Orion Mini-guider package; Orion Off-axis guider. Meade DSI II color, Orion Starshoot Deepspace II video camera and Canon T3i (unmod). Maxim DL v.5.
Posted 04 December 2012 - 03:55 PM
You are definitely a serious imager to buy a parcel of land in W.VA to go to for AP. Hope it was in the Marcellus play and you could recoup some of the cost by leasing gas rights. I have a lot of friends in Franklin Park and Sewickley, I'm a little surprised you found an area as dark as Deer Lakes. I have a 'free' dark site I can get to (albeit further away) and use for AP without taking any time away from family - Kane, PA on the NY border where one of our kids has a home.
I see you have an Astro Physics mount. I couldn't quite justify buying one of those at this time given my complete lack of experience. When I asked about mounts three mos. ago, every reply I got on AP was they are that much better. Are you also in that camp?
Lastly, you mentioned going to AAAP's dark site, are you a member? I've tried to join it(one of the comments rightly suggested that I should join such a group to interface with people who know what they are doing). Other than AAAP cashed my check, I haven't gotten any response from them. Is there someone in it I should e-mail?
Ioptron IEQ45M; OTAs: Celestron 11" XLT, Orion 120mm EON, and Orion 80mm CFT. Meade ACF 8" LX 90; Meade ACF LS-6; Meade ETX 90PE. Various Celestron X-Cells and Meade 5000 HDs, Orion 12mm reticle, Astrotech 1.25" dialectric diagonal, Antares f/6.3 SCT reducer and Meade plossl set. Orion Mini-guider package; Orion Off-axis guider. Meade DSI II color, Orion Starshoot Deepspace II video camera and Canon T3i (unmod). Maxim DL v.5.
Posted 07 December 2012 - 06:24 PM
I've experimented with a lot of equipment over the last few years and typically found that you get what you pay for. Probably the only partial exception to that being the Atlas mounts which for medium focal lengths have given me very good performance. I purchased the AP900 mount because I got a great deal on one and since I was putting in a permanent observatory and wanted a higher capacity mount for side by side mounting of deep sky imaging and planetary imaging setups as well as higher resolution deep sky work for planetary nebs etc. Otherwise, the Atlas mount performed quite well with the FSQ.
Practice at home and then take advantage of those dark sites; you'll find a couple hours at a dark site will vastly outdo a couple days or more at your light polluted site.
I sent you a private message regarding AAAP to answer your question.


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text: Greenbay---DryFlyGuy really hit the nail on the head with his comment about hunting bulls with archery tackle in September when they're making noise! There is nothing like it and you know where the bulls are working, rather than playing somewhat of a guessing game after the rut. I don't feel like a 280"-300" bull is asking too much if you're in an area with a decent elk population. We see bulls like that all the time in the Wyoming unit we hunt every year, but unfortunately it is now taking close to max preference points for a nonresident to draw a bull tag while it's about a 75% chance or better for a resident to draw it. We kill a good bull every time someone gets a tag and we'd be 10 for 10 over the last 10 years or so since I started keeping track if one guy hadn't passed on a bunch of bulls under 320" looking for a big one back in about 2005 or 2006. The reason we have that great success is because we've hunted that BLM area for 20 years or more, so definitely believe the guys when they tell you knowing the country is the biggest part of killing elk on a consistent basis!


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RF.K.2. Demonstrate understanding of spoken words, syllables, and sounds (phonemes). Recognize and produce rhyming words. Count, pronounce, blend, and segment syllables in spoken words. Blend and segment onsets and rimes of single-syllable spoken words.
RF.1.2. Demonstrate understanding of spoken words, syllables, and sounds (phonemes). Orally produce single-syllable words by blending sounds (phonemes), including consonant blends.
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Ken Maisano's 1970 Plymouth Barracuda - The Softer Side Of 9sWritten by John McGann on July 1, 2010 Ken Maisano's stroker small-block Barracuda
Take a good look at this Barracuda. Borrowing from an old Maxwell Smart bit, would you believe it runs 9s? It has a full interior, the body is all steel (except the fiberglass hood-but it is still on the stock hinges), and there is a tame-looking, naturally aspirated small-block under the hood. Owner Ken Maisano could remove the wheelie bars and put radials on the back and you'd never guess his car was so fast. Nines? Whatever, it's just a 340 Barracuda.
Your doubts will be banished as soon as that engine fires. It is instantly clear that this thing is packing way more heat than your average purple cam and header swap. At idle, Ken's small-block-not so small at about 427 ci-terrifies small animals and fixes looks of horror on the faces of soccer moms, tree huggers, Democrats, and the elderly. If you think it sounds good at idle, you should hear it rev. The sound alone could part the Jordan River.
"I wanted a very nasty street car," Ken tells us. And yes, this is technically still a street car. It has license plates, working lights, carpet, a radio, and power windows. Ken does drive it to work occasionally and to nearby Huntington Beach, California, for the Saturday morning Donut Derelicts meet. However, the 13.0:1 compression ratio, 5,700-stall converter, and little, remote-mount electric motor that spins the water pump make this car better suited to the dragstrip than Southern California freeways.
It is stunning to watch Ken make a pass. With a transbrake and a two-step rev limiter, his Barracuda launches hard, pulling the front wheels a good 2 feet off the ground. He shifts at 7,200 rpm and the whole ordeal is over in about 9.5 seconds. He's going a blistering 140 mph through the traps. Though he has never had the engine on a dyno, Ken guesses that it makes in the neighborhood of 750 hp based on his e.t.'s versus the car's 3,400-pound race weight.
It's reliable, too. Ken tells us he has more than 400 runs on the engine and puts about 500 street miles on it per year. He's never had a problem with it. Does that mean this nasty street car has a soft side?
Tech Notes
Who: Ken Maisano
What: '70 Plymouth Barracuda
Where: Costa Mesa, CA
Engine: This was originally a 340 car, but seeking more cubic inches, Ken removed that engine and replaced it with a 340X block bored to 4.125 inches. It houses a 4.00-inch Mopar Performance crankshaft, Eagle 6.125-inch rods, and CP 13.0:1 pistons. The cam is custom ground from Comp with 278/282 duration and 0.640/0.620 lift on a 108-degree lobe-separation angle. Indy oval-port aluminum cylinder heads are on top. Ken ported and assembled them himself with Ferrea 2.08/1.65-inch valves, K-Motion valvesprings, and T&D rocker arms. Comp solid roller lifters and Smith Bros. pushrods bridge the gap between block and heads.
Induction: Ken modified the Indy intake manifold, cutting about 1 1/2 inches of material off the carburetor flange, and made a four-hole carburetor spacer/adapter to mount a 1,050-cfm Dominator carburetor, packaging it all so it would fit under his car's AAR-style fiberglass hood. Said Dominator is kept supplied with a steady stream of Sunoco 110-octane race gas by a Barry Grant 280 fuel pump.
Ignition: The Mallory Unilite distributor is left over from Ken's first race car-a '70 Duster he owned in the '80s. It's controlled by an MSD Digital 7AL box with a two-step launch control.
Exhaust: The Hooker headers are also leftovers from Ken's Duster, and he says he only needed to modify a few of the tubes and notch the subframe in a couple of spots to get them to fit the E-Body chassis. They measure 17/8 inches at the primaries, and 31/2 inches at the collectors.
Transmission: A Pro-Trans-built 904 handles the shifting duties. Ken says he picked up 0.25 second when he swapped it in place of his 727 trans. Wheels-up launches come courtesy of the Turbo-Action transbrake and the steep, 5,700-stall Continental torque converter.
Rearend: A Strange 9-inch is out back, stuffed with 4.30 gears on a spool and Moser 35-spline axles.
Suspension: The torsion bars are stock, but the shocks are double-adjustable QA1s. In the rear, Rancho 1000 shocks are mounted to a Calvert leaf spring and CalTracs traction bar combination.
Brakes: Wilwood disc brakes are on all four corners.
Interior: The interior is surprisingly stock looking except for a few extra gauges and the 10-point chrome-moly rollcage built by Bob Miller at BMP in Prescott, Arizona. The 'cage is NHRA certified to 7.99 seconds.
Paint/Body: Ken bought this car about five years ago for about $3,000, so you can imagine it was a little trashed. No worries-he owns Mascar Autobody & Paint and has done a few high-quality restorations in his life. He did a full rotisserie job on the car, media-blasting and cutting away all the crap and replacing it with good sheetmetal. He sprayed the Plum Crazy and matte-black paint scheme using BASF basecoat/clearcoat and had the car up and running in a mere eight months.
Wheels/Tires: Fifteen-inch Weld wheels are all around. The front tires are Moroso 28x4.5, and the rear slicks are Phoenix 28.5x11.5.


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Hello. The last month or so I've been working on a campaign for my gaming group, and so I've started looking at mapping in great detail. I found this site quite helpful, particularly RobA's stuff, so I thought I'd become a member.
The last few days I've been working on drawing mountains in an "Artistic Map" style (to use the term RobA has in his PDF). I've really "wasted" a lot of time messing around with mountains and drawing them in different ways. Currently, I think I'll try and see how a map looks if the mountains are made of polygons. Though since I've been working in Inkscape, it wouldn't be too hard to use the fractalize path function to make them more natural. I guess I'll see which I prefer more stylistically. Anyhow, I was thinking about posting a tutorial on different ways to do artistic mountains in inkscape. I think it is easier to do them there than in photoshop/gimp, or at least the results look better, and converting what you've done to brushes is easy enough.
I've also been messing around with how you'd go about mapping a torus with hexes, since I think a toroidal world would be cool. I think Hexmapper got me thinking of that...err, not the hexmapper most people mean though, but this one. Neat little program that literally lets you map a surface much bigger than the earth in hexes. Starts out with massive hexes and then you can break down each hex into smaller hexes. You can do this all the way down to 5' hexes. I might mess around with making a more versatile program like that for fun. Well, once my campaign gets going.


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Hey guys, I am incharge of a discovery learning technology course. One of our students has been trying to install zimbra and is stuck. He is using a fedora 5 box and the newest release of zimbra opensource. He has reinstalled zimbra over 10 times and always ends up with an MTA problem.
Is there anyone in the zimbra community that might be willing to talk to the student. We have the ability to call any one in the US for free.
Feel free to pm me with suggestions.


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If you do, count on the Tallwood Urology and Kidney Institute for superior care.
A vasectomy is a surgical procedure that involves the sealing or cutting of the vas deferens (tiny tubes leading from each testicle) to prevent sperm from mixing with semen. It is considered a permanent form of birth control, so should not be approached lightly. Your urologist can provide expert advice on what to expect as well as perform the procedure.
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R&B star Cee Lo Green must return to court in Los Angeles on April 28 for a preliminary hearing in relation to a drug possession charge.
The singer, real name Thomas DeCarlo Callaway, stands accused of giving an ex-girlfriend ecstasy before having sex with her in 2012.
He has pleaded not guilty to the allegation. The singer recently made headlines by stepping down from NBC's "The Voice."


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Kanye West has defended his decision to use the Confederate flag in merchandise for his Yeezus tour, insisting he is reclaiming the image from racists.
Fans were outraged to see the star's T-shirts and jackets emblazoned with the flag that was adopted by the slave-owning southern U.S. states during the American Civil War.
Critics took to Twitter.com to voice their concerns after West was spotted wearing a coat bearing the flag at the weekend, with one fan writing, "Ye (Kanye) – THATS (sic) STUPID! Brother I marched to have that vile rag torn down from the state house grounds."
However, the "Stronger" hitmaker insists the gesture is his way of reclaiming the image, telling Los Angeles radio show AMP, "The Confederate flag represented slavery in a way. That's my abstract take on what I know about it, right? So I wrote the song New Slaves. So I took the Confederate flag and made it my flag. It's my flag now. Now what you gonna (going to) do… It's colorless also. It's super-'hood and super-white-boy-approved at the same time."


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Madagascar: Escape 2 Africa
|Release Date: November 07, 2008
|Running Time: 88 mins.
|MPAA Rating: PG
|Box Office: $179,982,968.00
|Genre: Adventure, Animated, Comedy, Sequel
Ben Stiller
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All Cast & Crew >>
Summary:Alex the lion, Marty the zebra, Melman the giraffe and Gloria the hippo, King Julien, Maurice and the penguins find themselves in the wildest place of all--the vast plains of Africa--where our zoo-raised crew encounter species of their own kind for the very first time. While discovering their roots, they quickly find the differences between the concrete jungle and the heart of Africa. Despite long-lost relatives, romantic rivals and scheming hunters, Africa seems like a great place--but is it better than their Central Park home?


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Aqua Sports Technology 20' Island Hopper Acrobat
Item # 2273127
|Eligible for Free Shipping on Orders $39 or More! (see promotion details)
|Members of The League get 5% back when you spend $100! (see promotion details)
Product Details
The Aqua Sports Technology 20-ft Island Hopper "Acrobat" provides fun on the water at camps, resorts or lake homes. The heavy, commercial-grade construction includes a 3-chamber inflation tube to provide structural strength and to ensure the tube is always floating. It's set-up with 7 swimmer-assist handles and a ladder for easy access.
- Diameter: 20 ft
- Height: 42 in
- Jump Surface: 14 ft
- Heavy commercial-grade construction
- 30-oz, 1000-denier PVC material
- 3-chamber inflation tube
- 6 anchor-tie D-rings (3 inside and 3 under the tube)
- Heavy, loading-bearing molded plastic ladder
- 8 swimmer-assist handles
- Galvanized steel frame, 8.5-in cross tapered springs, 20 frame secure tie straps
- UV-resistant protective pads
- 700 PSI burst strength polypropylene mat
- UV-resistant, 1-in foam perimeter spring cover
- Includes backpack carry/storage bag, a repair kit and an instruction manual
Product Recommendations


text:
Background: Zimbra has been running fine on server for about one month. Restarted server and after restart I get the following when starting zimbra:
[zimbra@mail ~]$ zmcontrol start
Host mail.ofsloans.com
Starting ldap...Done.
Unable to determine enabled services from ldap.
Enabled services read from cache. Service list may be inaccurate.
Starting logger...Done.
Starting mailbox...Done.
Starting antispam...Done.
Starting antivirus...Done.
Starting snmp...Done.
Starting spell...Done.
Starting mta...Done.
Starting stats...Done.
You have new mail in /var/spool/mail/zimbra
Version Information:
[zimbra@mail ~]$ zmcontrol -v
Release 5.0.4_GA_2101.RHEL5_64_20080321154100 CentOS5_64
Verified slapd is running:
[zimbra@mail ~]$ ps -ef | grep slapd
zimbra 23494 1 0 08:18 ? 00:00:00 /opt/zimbra/openldap/libexec/slapd -l LOCAL0 -4 -u zimbra -h ldap://mail.ofsloans.com:389 -f /opt/zimbra/conf/slapd.conf
Verified it could resolve itself:
[zimbra@mail ~]$ zmhostname
You have new mail in /var/spool/mail/zimbra
Checked the mail referenced:
[zimbra@mail ~]$ tail /var/spool/mail/zimbra
X-Cron-Env: <PATH=/usr/bin:/bin>
X-Cron-Env: <LOGNAME=zimbra>
X-Cron-Env: <USER=zimbra>
Message-Id: <firstname.lastname@example.com>
Sender: CronDaemon <email@example.com>
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 08:24:18 -0700
Unable to determine enabled services from ldap.
Enabled services read from cache. Service list may be inaccurate.
Everything shows as running but I can not access email through the web client. I also can't access the administrator console through web interface.
Any Ideas on how to fix the LDAP error? :confused::confused:


text:
JAN 23, 2013 - USA Today
A Must Read - Share
Ryan allegedly ran a red light and collided with another vehicle last Monday evening.
Editor's Picks
Show More
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Hey you have no friends!!! Get to work and start inviting friends to help build your Comunitee. Click Here to invite friends.
© 2011 Comunitee, Inc.


text:
No. 22 Cyclones Prepare for Lady Coyotes
AMES, Iowa - The No. 22/18 Iowa State women's basketball team (1-0, 0-0 Big 12) takes on the South Dakota Lady Coyotes at Hilton Coliseum on Wednesday, Nov. 13.
Webcast: Cyclones.tv
Cyclone Headlines
- Iowa State is fresh off a season-opening victory against North Dakota, 84-55. The Cyclones put together a convincing win over North Dakota, forcing 15 UND turnovers and shooting 45.9 percent from the field. Iowa State also knocked down 10 three-pointers in the victory.
- Iowa State holds an all-time record of 633-535 (.542). The Cyclones have had 10-straight winning seasons. Head Coach Bill Fennelly is in his 19th season at Iowa State, boasting a record of 397-182 (.685). This marks his 26th season overall as a head coach (563-235).
- After the first week of play Iowa State moved up two spots to No. 18 in the USA Today Coaches Poll. The Cyclones moved up a spot in the Associated Press Poll to No. 22 after improving to 1-0. EspnW's Preseason Power Rankings also placed the Cyclones at 20th nationally.
- EspnW has listed Hallie Christofferson as one of the top-five small forwards in the country and Nikki Moody received at least one vote as one of the top-five point guards nationally.
- Senior forward Hallie Christofferson showed what all the preseason buzz was about with a tremendous outing to open her senior season. The Hamlin, Iowa native put up a career-high 32 points and 11 rebounds for her 12th career double-double.
- Christofferson's career day earned her the season's first Big 12 Conference Weekly honors for just the second time in her career. Christofferson earned Freshman of the Week honors in 2010.
- The Iowa State starting lineup consisted of a senior, two juniors and two freshmen, with Jadda Buckley and Seanna Johnson joining last year's returners in Nikki Moody, Christofferson and Brynn Williamson.
- South Dakota comes into the contest with a 1-1 record after a season-opening win over Cal State Fullerton and a loss to UC Irvine. After both contests, the Lady Coyotes hold a 98-68 advantage on the boards.
- After losing top rebounders in Chelsea Poppens and Anna Prins, Iowa State had to make up a lot of boards. A total of 10 of the 12 Cyclones recorded at least one rebound, with Christofferson and Kidd Blaskowsky recording double-digit efforts.
- With Sunday's win, Iowa State has won 71-straight regular season nonconference games at Hilton Coliseum. The streak dates back to the 2003-04 season (Last loss: Washington (12/21/03)).
Last Time Out
- Iowa State downed North Dakota 84-55 to improve to 19-0 in season-openers under Head Coach Bill Fennelly.
- Hallie Christofferson led the Cyclones with a career performance with a career-high 32 points and 11 rebounds. Christofferson's 32 points tied for the 10th-most in Iowa State history and the sixth-most scored in Hilton Coliseum in a women's game. Christofferson also tied a career-high with 11 field goals made and set a career-high with 18 field-goal attempts.
- Kidd Blaskowsky also had a career day in ISU's win with her first career double-double with 14 points and a career-high 10 rebounds.
South Dakota Series Notes
- Iowa State is an even 4-4 against the South Dakota Lady Coyotes. Iowa State holds a 3-2 edge in home contests.
- In their last meeting on Jan. 5, 2010, Iowa State handed the Lady Coyotes a 25-point loss, 68-43.
- Denae Stuckey led the Cyclones with a career-high 13 points and nearly collected the first double-double of her career with nine rebounds and four assists. She was 2-of-2 from beyond the arc and 4-of-6 from the field. Anna Prins was the only other ISU player in double figures with 10 points.
Scouting South Dakota
- The Lady Coyotes finished last season with a 19-16 record and a 10-6 record in Summit league conference games.
- South Dakota enters today with a 1-1 record after winning their season opener against Cal State Fullerton 66-57, but falling at UC Irvine, 68-64. The Lady Coyotes and Cyclones have similar schedules this season with four of the same opponents in Cal State Fullerton, North Dakota, Drake and Northern Iowa.
- South Dakota's Nicole Seekamp is the player to watch as she leads the Lady Coyotes with 19 points per game and six rebounds per game. Raeshel Contreras is also averaging double-digits with 12 points per game.
- This matchup is poised to be a battle of the boards, with South Dakota holding a 98-68 advantage in rebounding through their first two games. Iowa State led the rebounding effort 44-40 on Sunday.


text: I done a few backpack trips and I am always struggling to figure out what I should do for lunch. If I eat light and eat trail mix, granola and so on I get hungry pretty early. I really dont want to get the stove out and cook up a dehydrated meal. I was thinking about going to a italian deli and getting some real hard salami,slicing it and vacuum sealing for individual sandwiches. Then pack pita and mustard packets. I've heard of guys packing bacon also. How long would the salami last in a pack? What do you guys think any other ideas?


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|Other Usefull Pages
[ BBS FAQ ] [ Error Codes ] [ Chlorine Info ] [ Bromine Info ] [ TDS ] [ pH Explained ] [ Electric Heater Guide ] [ Voltage Testing ] [ Pump Air Lock ] [ Owners Manuals ]
Does anyone have an idea on how to move a Jacuzzi. THey are huge and heavy and I am not sure how to go about it. Anybody have any tips from when they might have moved theirs or seen it done?
Home Page
, Wooden Hot Tubs
, Japanese Ofuros
, Hot Tub & Spa Covers
PLEASE NOTE: We are Roberts Hot Tubs Inc. (manufacturers of traditional wooden hot tubs)! If you found this webpage through a search engine while searching for a different brand of spa, we are not them! We simply appeared in your search due to that name being talked about on this particular web page. The phone number below will reach Roberts Hot Tubs, not the manufacturer of the brand of spa you're searching for. This is a public forum and you're more than welcome to post a question asking for contact or other information for a particular brand of spa. Almost certainly someone will be able to assist you.


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4 servings, 1-1/2 cups each
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Serve with a crisp mixed green salad tossed with your favorite KRAFT Dressing.
Prepare using your favorite lean cut of ground beef, such as ground round or ground sirloin.
Substitute 2 cups frozen BOCA Ground Crumbles for the browned ground beef.
* Nutrition information is estimated based on the ingredients and cooking instructions as described in each recipe and is intended to be used for informational purposes only. Please note that nutrition details may vary based on methods of preparation, origin and freshness of ingredients used.
Two things: 1) I read every user review before I made this, and 2) my 5 star rating is for the recipe as I prepared it, not as written. Taking others' suggestions, I subbed a can of Rotel for the tomato, did not use the ketchup or green onions, seasoned the beef with a little garlic and onion powders, and added a can of cheese soup. FABULOUS! So much better than any Hamburger Helper. I am not proud to say I ate the entire thing myself. I will absolutely make this again, MY way.
K:3851 v0:53417


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text:
Worked With:
Michael Chiklis
Birth Name: Michael Chiklis
Born: 08/30/1963
Birth Place: Lowell, Massachusetts, USA
Born: 08/30/1963
Birth Place: Lowell, Massachusetts, USA
Born on Aug. 30, 1963 in Lowell, MA, Chiklis was raised to be an entertainer almost from the start. Reared in a musical household, he was accustomed to breaking into song and entertaining his large Greek family by the time he was five years old. Chiklis also developed an impressive array of celebrity impressions - some 100 all told, including Richard Nixon, Marlon Brando and James Cagney. In junior high, a teacher encouraged him to audition for summer stock for the Town & Country Playhouse in Salem, NH. He moved on to the Merrimack Repertory Theatre in his hometown, where Chiklis earned his Equity card from the stage union at just age 13, acting in a production of "Romeo and Juliet." After g... Continue Bio >>
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Vivian C. Sullivan
Vivian C. Sullivan, 92, of Le Mars passed away on Thursday, October 13, 2011 at Floyd Valley Hospital in Le Mars. Funeral services will take place at 11:00 a.m. on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 at the Mauer-Johnson Funeral Home in LeMars. Burial will follow at Resthaven Memory Gardens in LeMars. Visitation will begin at 2:00 p.m. on Monday, October 17, 2011 at the Mauer-Johnson Funeral Home. The family will be present from 5-8 p.m. with a prayer service at 7:00 p.m. Visitation will resume at 9:00 a.m. on Tuesday. Memories and expressions of sympathy may be directed through www.mauerjohnsonfh.com
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text: Active alumni are the heart of the UAH Alumni Association and alumni chapters bring active alumni together for the common purpose of encouraging increased participation and connection with the Alumni Association and the University as a whole. Chapters are a means through which individuals can contribute their talents to the objectives and purpose of the UAH Alumni Association and the University of Alabama in Huntsville. A Charger Alumni Chapter is a group of UAH alumni, friends, or fans who possess a common interest, goal, purpose, geographic location, or place of employment and are united by their Charger spirit. Types of Alumni Chapters: Corporate ChaptersCorporate Chapters are formed among companies with a high concentration of UAH graduates. Regional ChaptersRegional Chapters are formed by alumni living in the same city or geographical region. Affinity / Special Interest ChaptersAffinity or Special Interest Chapters are formed by alumni with similar interests or campus affiliations. Want to get involved with an existing chapter or estabilish a new one? Contact Taralyn Caudle at 256-UAH-ALUM or email@example.com to start a chapter in your area. Charger Alumni Chapter News (October 11, 2012) The Raytheon Charger Alumni Chapter hosted Dean Mahalingam, UAH College of Engineering, for an afternoon reception and lecture. Dr. Mahanlingam briefed the attendees about the College of Engineering, its successes, and its outstanding faculty. (October 18, 2012) The alumni chapter at Crestwood Medical Center hosted the October Alumni Lunch & Learn event with Dean Raines, UAH College of Nursing, as the guest speaker. She updated attendees about the challenges and opportunities facing the nursing profession and how UAH is addressing those, including the expansion of the nursing building and program.


text:
key x_item BA1069
A Setup With Aldo - Colombini
Item Number: BA1069
I am sure that we would all agree that it is the EFFECT THAT IS ALL IMPORTANT and that some of the most astounding effects in card magic can be obtained by setting up the cards in a certain order before the performance commences. Here are five routines of mine which depend on set-ups.
Customer Reviews Write a review.
No reviews yet. Do you own this product? Write a review.


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Scary Movie V (2013)
Scary Movie V SynopsisThe latest installment of the Scary Movie franchise includes send ups of Paranormal Activity, Mama, Sinister, The Evil Dead, Inception, Black Swan and pop culture featuring Ashley Tisdale, Charlie Sheen, Lindsay Lohan, Snoop Dogg, Katt Williams, Molly Shannon, Terry Crews, Simon Rex, Jerry O'Connell, Sarah Hyland, Katrina Bowden, Tyler Posey, Shad Moss aka Bow Wow, Kate Walsh, Heather Locklear, Mac Miller and Mike Tyson.
Scary Movie V is directed by Malcolm Lee who teamed up and worked side by side with legendary comedy director David Zucker (Airplane, The Naked Gun franchises). Zucker wrote and directed Scary Movie 3 and 4 and also co-wrote and produced Scary Movie V.
The Scary Movie franchise, which lampoons the greatest in horror and genre fare, has grossed over $800 million worldwide.
Scary Movie V Release Date
In Theaters April 12, 2013
Scary Movie V Credits
Starring: Ashley Tisdale, Simon Rex, Erica Ash, J.P. Manoux, Molly Shannon, Terry Crews, Heather Locklear, Charlie Sheen, Lindsay Lohan, Chris Elliot, Kate Walsh, Jerry OConnell, and Mike Tyson
Written by: David Zucker and Pat Proft
Directed by: Malcolm D. Lee
Produced by: Phil Dornfeld and David Zucker
MPAA Rating: [ PG-13 ]
Distributor: Dimension Films
Subscribe To Scary Movie V Updates
if you're excited for Scary Movie V


text:
One more question before i click on buy. I am 5 8" tall and weigh 253lbs. With the two piece 5mm thermoprene Henderson wet suit. Will i need the 2x or 3x ? I cannot try before i buy so please help me with this decission.
No way to accurately tell from those measurements. The most important measurements when purchasing a suit from a sizing chart will always be the waist and chest/bust measurements. Height is a secondary measurement and is next most important followed lastly by weight, which should only be used if you are right on the boarder between two sizes in all other categories.
I recently purchased a hookah diving machine. I am 255 lbs. 58" tall. Chubby to say the least. I intend to dive mostly in 8 to 10ft. depths in inland lakes in MI. Im looking at the henderson 5mm thermoprene 2 piece suit. I will need boots size 10 hood and gloves also 5mm as i intend to dive spring and fall.Also 1 scubapro orbit frameless mask mgf part 24.850.100 I need the cost for these items and your expert opinion on this being the right choice for me with the diving i intend on doing. I am open to suggestions. thanks, Chuck
I will be diving in the waters off of South Africa this coming September. The water is about 50-60 degrees. I am looking to buy a wetsuit for my dives. I am considering the Henderson 5mm Thermoprene 2-piece combo. Do you think a John, step in combo is a good fit? I fit nicely into a XL Aqua Lung wetsuit so would that size work for this brand as well?
In comparison our waters on the Pacific Coast here in S. California are very simple. We'd not typically think of getting into the water in less than a 7mm suit. I think you will find yourself very cold and not enjoying yourself in a 5mm suit. Remember, the surface temperature of the water is what you'll normally see reported. Once you drop down 30 or 40 feet the temperature drops dramatically.
Thermoprene® delivers quality and performance a
step above our Premium Neoprene®, offering 75%
more stretch and featuring glued and sewn seams on
all suits. All jumpsuits feature integrated spine
pads and zipper seals as well as Freedom flex knee
Warranty & Repair Information
Henderson Brand wetsuits are backed with the most
comprehensive consumer warranty in the business.
With over 50 years of experience in designing and
manufacturing wetsuits we have developed a
reputation of quality and performance. Since every
Henderson wetsuit is originally designed and
manufactured at its USA factory, Henderson can
provide warranty and repair services, unlike other
brands that simply resell wetsuits designed and
manufactured by companies outside the USA. The
Customer experience and Customer service are our
number one priorities. We understand that there
are many choices for you to consider and Henderson
wants to make certain that every wetsuit that
bears our logo provides the confidence and trust
our customer has come to expect from Henderson
Dive Wear.
Henderson neoprene wetsuits that have been
registered by their owners at ( hendersonusa.com)
are warranted for up to 10 years as follows:
10 years (zipper)
5 years (on all material and workmanship with the
exception of damage due to Chlorine, sunlight or
1 year "Head to Toe" (except for wetsuit that have
been lost, stolen or damaged in use)
This warranty is non transferable.
Products which are not covered by the 10 year
warranty will be marked and warranted as follows:
for a period of 1 year from the time of purchase.
to be free of manufacturing defects at the time of
Please read the applicable warranty information
and care instruction attached and or provided with
the product at the time of purchase. If you are
uncertain of the warranty coverage simply return
the product by following the instruction ( below)
for evaluation.
Henderson will replace or repair, at our
discretion, any product proving to be defective.
This warranty does not apply to damages caused by
misuse, lack of reasonable care, accidents or loss
of the product. If you believe your garment is
defective or if you wish to have it repaired,
please return them via UPS, Express Mail or any
other reliable method that allows the product to
be insured and traced if lost, directly to:
Henderson Dive Wear
1 Whitall Avenue
Millville, NJ 08332
Please include a photocopy of your warranty
registration receipt, your name, daytime phone
number, and return shipping address. Allow 2-3
weeks for repair and replacement.
Warranty is provided on products sold in the
Continental USA only. Warranty claims will be
accepted on products from outside the continental
USA; however all shipping, duty and customs fees
are the responsibility of the owner.


text: My email was migrated from Postmaster (Spider Networks) to Zimbra about 2 months ago. Since then ex-Postmaster users have had bad gateway messages, Internal Server errors and now No Such Blob messages preventing access to any e-mails. Is this type of 'outage' usual with Zimbra/Vorari? If there are general problems with the Zimbra system, where does one find information about this - at the moment there are no messages anywhere I can find about this although 3 days ago a message was posted to the ex-Postmaster users at the log-in page apologising for the service. Even this has now disappeared. Can anyone help?


text:
Bryan Cranston
As Walter White
Anna Gunn
As Skyler White
Aaron Paul
As Jesse Pinkman
Dean Norris
As Hank Schrader
Betsy Brandt
As Marie Schrader
RJ Mitte
As Walter White Jr.
Bob Odenkirk
As Saul Goodman (S03-S05, recurring previously)
Giancarlo Esposito
As Gustavo 'Gus' Fring (S03-S04, recurring previously)
Jonathan Banks
As Michael 'Mike' Ehrmantraut (S03-S05E07, recurring previously)
Laura Fraser
As Lydia Rodarte-Quayle (S05E09-16, recurring previously)
|• view full cast list, character guides
| roxtat02
Reviews: 1
Breakin Bad is awesom, the show portraits much of the reality in the sociaty in which we live, the cast could not be any better to play the roles Read more
Review posted on Tuesday, April 29th 2008 at 1:08 am
| Parker
Reviews: 15
the first thing you see in the pilot episode is chaos and confusion, something that really makes you unable to look away. you don't know what is going on, and it's just complete chaos, which is the meaning. then we back up a bit in the story, and you see it from the beginning. which is why I'm opening my review like this. Read more
Review posted on Monday, March 2nd 2009 at 11:35 pm
| EvoQ
Reviews: 6
Breaking Bad is arguably one of the top 5 TV shows of all time. What Breaking Bad showcases is Man's Fight between Pride and Conscience. What constitutes Right and Wrong and how far Man will go in pursuit of his goals. When Pride becomes the driving factor Man's Conscience fights to get a Balance. When that Balance tips in either direction events will set in motion that are unstoppable. With Walter White; his Pride drove him to let go of a Multi Million Dollar company. Then Walter White's Pride drove him to the depths of SociEconomic classes to take a very low paying School Teacher job and even work at a car wash to provide for his families welfare. When Walter White get's Cancer he s driven to pursue a course of action of ultimately making as much money as he could for his family; While he could ie' he is dying and thinks "What the Hell with Society, so be it that Drug Dealing/Manufacturing MIGHT be Wrong, Someone is going to make these Drugs/Someone is going to sell these Drugs, it might as well be me so I can make allot of money for my family as I am dying anyway". Yes; this TV Show one of the best ever show Man's Inner Fight between his Pride and his Conscience. Pride can be both a good thing and a very bad thing, so can your conscience can also be both good and bad. When Looses that careful Balance then there is nothing Man can do but to do his best ad hold on for the ride. This TV show showcases this inner fight and reaches out to society to ask certain Questions. Is Making and selling Drugs really that Bad ? Is the Federal Government's War on Drugs anywhere near successful? What about the division of how far is stepping over the line in the sand when Bad goes too Bad, Wrong is too Wrong. I am sure that in History that Breaking Bad will most definitely Hold one of the slots in the All-time Top 5. Read more
Review posted on Monday, September 23rd 2013 at 1:59 am
|'Better Call Saul' Delayed to 2015, Second Season Ordered
|2014 TCA Awards: 'True Detective' Earns 4 Noms, 'Breaking Bad' Scores 3 ...
|'Better Call Saul' Characters Revealed
|2014 Peabody Awards: Winners Include 'House of Cards,' 'Scandal...
|Toronto ComiCon: Giancarlo Esposito Drops Wisdom, Champions Superheroes and Love...
|Breaking Bad Theme by Dave Porter


text:
Out of Stock
Item # REY0105
Don't worry though, we have a lot more Clincher Wheels in stock than that.View Similar Products
Reynolds Forty Six C Clincher Wheelset $0.00
What do you get when you pair the versatility of 46mm deep wheels with ease-of-use of clinchers? Take your thought, cut around 100 grams off of it, spec it with carbon, and you have the Reynolds Forty Six C Clincher Wheelset. Now, with the Forty Six's purpose-driven engineering, you can say goodbye to sacrificing weight and stopping power for the convenience of clinchers.
In fact, in terms of weight, the Forty Six tips the scales around a respectable 1440 grams. And when compared to comparable clincher rim depths, the Forty Six comes in lower than the Zipp Firecrest 303 and just edges above the Enve SES 3.4s. How was it done? With Reynolds' CR6 Hybrid Carbon, of course. This is the same carbon fiber found in the Aero line of wheels. It's used in both lines because it allows a high level of torsional and lateral rigidity without the detriment of stacking grams. And for the Aero line, its light weight and high tensile strength keeps the weight of a 26.2mm wide rim down. So, when used on the Forty Six's maximum width of 20.8mm and a rim depth of 46mm, rotational weight becomes almost negligible.
So, it can be asserted that while the Forty Six's aerodynamics play a vital role in its design, it hasn't undergone the same extensive DET tunnel-testing as the Aero series. However, like the RZR 46, the Forty Six has received Reynolds' Swirl Lip Generator (SLG) technology. It's easy to miss, but the leading edge of the rim features a 0.9mm lip in order to widen it near the spoke face. Accordingly, this minimizes pressure drag by reducing side forces on the rim, leaving room for responsiveness and weight to be the paramount characteristics of the Forty Six. And along these lines, you'll find that the wheels roll up to speed quickly, and demand less user-force to keep them there. Additionally, its exceptional stiffness-to-weight ratio guarantees a nimble reaction to your force when you jump to pin down a climbing break.
Now, while the Aero and Forty Six differ in functionality, both wheels are constructed with the same proprietary carbon technology. The recipe consists of three technologies -- Hybrid Modulus Laminate (HLM), Variable Resin Chemistry (VRC), and Inert Gas Compaction (IGC). Basically, these three systems work harmoniously to construct the Forty Six. HLM is a method used to assign specific carbons and layups at different points of the rim. So, through this method, Reynolds placed different carbons and layups at the tire channel, brake track, side wall, internal nipple bed, and spoke face. Then, with VRC, Reynolds' exclusive resins bond the different laminates into a single structure. And lastly, IGC is used to mold and cure the rim in what Reynolds deems as the most ideal of environments. As a result of this construction process, the Forty Six is strengthened at strategic points, and benefits from a light overall weight. Additionally, the wheel's layup provides high levels of lateral and torsional rigidity under load.
With the Forty Six, Reynolds also addressed an all-too-common ailment to carbon clinchers -- poor braking. The solution was found through the development of what Reynolds calls its Crynogenic Glass Transition Braking System (CTg). Essentially, this is a patented braking design that required both a redesign of the brake track laminate and pads. Accordingly, CTg uses a temperature-conductive laminate at the brake track's transition points that withstands higher levels of heat than typical carbon laminates. And when paired with Reynolds' polymer Cryo Blue brake pads, braking becomes more predictable and requires less finicky feathering on fast descents.
For the actual build, Reynolds used 20 radial-laced DT Swiss Aerolite spokes in the front and 24 spokes in a two-cross, drive-side pattern at the rear. These have been laced to DT Swiss straight-pull hubs, and the wheels attach with Reynolds' new camlock quick-release skewers. Please note that while the Forty Six's internal nipples decrease your drag footprint, truing the wheels will require a Reynolds-specific internal spoke wrench.
The Reynolds Forty Six C Clincher Wheelset is available in the color Black with White labels and in a clincher configuration. Please note that the rear wheel is offered with either a Shimano or Campagnolo 11-speed. Also, every wheelset includes two pairs of Reynolds Cryo Blue Brake Pads. Reynolds recommends only using its proprietary pads, and the use of any other brake pads will result in a void of your warranty.