text:
Spark plug threaded holes.
Tightening torques. Gaps.
Spark plug caps.
Resistor & non-resistor spark plugs.
Heat-Range chart; equivalent numbers.
© Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer
Above is a photo of three types of EXTENDED NOSE spark plugs, 3/4" reach, 14 mm.
Extended nose means that the center white insulator extends beyond the end of the threads.
ONLY THE LEFT-MOST spark plug is appropriate for Airheads; it has a SINGLE
The middle spark plug, Bosch XR7LDC, has two ground electrodes, & can be used in
Classic K bikes; these bikes can also use X5D, X5DC, XR5DC. The XLR7DC spark plug
with dual grounding electrodes, introduced during the K1200 production, works well with all
prior K bikes.
The middle & right-most spark plug has even more ground electrodes & versions can have
standard or a fine wire center electrode. These have NO USE in Airheads & NOT in
Classic K bikes if the spark plugs have more than 2 grounding electrodes).
NOTE: Do not try to re-gap the XR7LDC spark plug, even when brand-new.
You can re-gap single ground electrode spark plugs when brand new only.
BMW says NOT
to re-gap spark plugs. BMW did not explain that advice very well.
They really should have added this: ".....AFTER they have been in use". That IS
what BMW means & I am in total agreement. After any spark plug has been in
use the metal structure of the GROUND electrode changes. If you then try to
re-gap the spark plug you WEAKEN the ground electrode. In quite rare instances
they have broken off, causing engine damage.
IN USE here means that the engine has been run. This is especially so after the
engine has been run under load.
As miles accumulate, the electrodes gap increases. This is usually acceptable
until the gap becomes very excessive, at which time marginal systems or those
running very lean or very rich might begin to misfire, leading to poor fuel mileage.
Fine wire tipped precious metal (center electrode) spark plugs are less likely to
have this problem with advancing miles & the spark will find it easier on them to
jump to the ground electrode(s), increasing the life a bit more, but fine wire spark
plugs may not work all that well in some engines. I am OK with you trying them,
but only if they have single ground electrodes if used on Airheads.
The mileage it takes to get to a problem varies highly, with a wide range of things
affecting the wear, such as spark plug heat range, caps resistance, actual mixture
burning conditions, type of ignition system, whether resistor spark plugs or not,
ETC. Spark plugs GENERALLY last a long time now, due to the use of UNleaded
fuels. In the past, leaded fuels would eventually cause electrical shorts/leakage
problems at the center insulator....and it was common to replace spark plugs at
10K-20K; or, to clean them by sand-blasting, & replace them at the next service
interval. They CAN last much longer now. Do NOT expect spark plugs on your
BMW motorcycle to last as long as spark plugs on modern fuel injected cars.
For the Airheads, worn gaps approaching even .040" are often still usable....but
spark plugs should be replaced sooner, especially if the grounding electrode
gets quite thin (usually a dished thinness), as they can weaken. In the OLD OLD
days, we Wrenches would file the ground electrode, sand-blast the plugs, set gaps,
etc. These days, nothing should be done but to check the gap an plug base and
central insulator color and appearance.
Spark plugs screw into threads; these male & female threads are exposed to combustion
heat, pressure & byproducts of gasoline & oil, tending to carbonize, & can accumulate in
the threads. Combustion is not the same in all Airheads, some have a fair amount of burnt
oil or carbonized oil, & other combustion products accumulating in the threads. Worn threads
tend to accumulate MORE hard carbon. The carbon can act like a pretty good abrasive. It
also can act like a cement!
If reinstalling a used spark plug (never re-gap one) I like to clean the threads. If the threads
in the head have the look of excessive deposits I may go so far as to rotate the engine to
exhaust valve open, & blow compressed air into the intake area as I clean the threads. A
greased tap can work, but then you have to degrease the threads and I dislike that taps
will tend to cut head metal, not just the carbon. I mostly use brass gun cleaning brushes,
rotating them for cleaning. I've seen some spark plug threads that were, brand-new, not
made all that nicely. Poor spark plug threads WILL damage the head threads. Poor spark
plug threads have been identified on spark plugs made in various countries.
Aluminum cylinder heads can be damaged relatively easily if one is not careful. There is
a distinct limit to abuse from over-tightening a spark plug, or removing & replacing a spark
plug when the cylinder head spark plug threads are full of combustion byproducts & carbon.
Carbon from such as oil burning, or, the very bad use of oil or grease on the threads, can
get very hard, & very abrasive. It can cause the spark plugs to injure the cylinder head
threads during removal. It is NOT a good idea to put much torque on a spark plug when
attempting to remove it. FIRST try heating the cylinder head. Running the engine is a
good way to do this.
Some BMW motorcycles PRIOR to the /5 series, I will just call them /2 bikes, had some
metal alloy & casting problems, including soft alloys & voids. Even with very careful
torqueing, with the best antiseize compounds of the day, still brought occasional
problems. I've seen poor metals & poor castings bring about failure of the factory installed
'cast-in-place' steel threads inserts, & heat-cool cycling on those early inserts caused
problems. For our /5 & later Airheads, the metal in the heads, & the castings, are very
considerably better.
Many folks simply refuse to use torque wrenches, & some who do or do not, over-torque
spark plugs. I have seen someone over-torque a spark plug & he WAS using a torque
wrench & it WAS set properly. His problem was not realizing that many clicker torque
wrenches tend to be hard to detect the click if the setting is fairly low on the wrench's total
capacity. This tends to be especially so on such as 100+ maximum foot-pound wrenches
which might have a rather subtle click when set low, say around 12 foot-pounds to 18
foot-pounds. Know your wrench. If you don't know what the click feels like at various
settings, and/or are not all that familiar with torque wrenches, especially YOURS, then
put the square end into your bench vise, use soft jaws or protective metal, & test the feel
required for various torque settings, that is, feel & listen for that click. NOTE that "cheap"
beam-type torque wrenches (not meaning the dial indicator commercial types) may be
very INaccurate....& should not be used for critical items.
Abused, the cylinder head spark plug hole threads will eventually start distorting & pulling
out if they don't immediately rip out. While Helicoils or welding & re-machining, all do work
OK, & can even be superior when done correctly, such repairs are usually avoidable if
one takes some extra care in the first place. I don't like to see extra places for sharp bits
of carbon combustion products to adhere to. They create 'hot red glowing places' in the
cylinder heads from using inserts & can cause pre-ignition problems. I recommend
against Time-serts, which can change the spark plug heat value.
I have installed Helicoils, & also have welded up the spark plug thread areas & drilled &
re-tapped them... of course the heads have to come off for that....best to remove the
head in any fix anyway....although one CAN use the official Helicoil Spark Plug Thread
repair kit, with well-greased parts, & with the exhaust valves open so you can blow any
possible chips out with an air hose. You CAN do a good job withOUT removing the head.
It is CRITICAL that drilling & tapping be done squarely.
>>>>ABSOLUTELY AND ALWAYS use a drill guide & tap guide!<<<<
MORE information on installing Helicoils, head on, or head off the engine,
is later in this article.
THREADS. A corrosive type of reaction is possible on the aluminum head.
Anti-seize compounds:
A corrosive type of reaction is possible on the aluminum head.
The use of antiseize is controversial, even among experienced Airhead mechanics....
mostly I think this is due to SOME spark plug manufacturer's literature; & perhaps
some is due to misconceptions. Some is due to faulty belief in old-wives tales, ....or,
possibly, bad experiences from those ham fisted about torquing things. Yes, some
professional wrenches are concerned about YOU, a non-pro, abusing things, & it is
true that use of antiseize COULD (not WILL) make it a somewhat easier to abuse.
SOME manufacturer's, trying to play it safer (???) have changed from recommending
anti-seize, to not recommending it, or just ignoring the use, over the years. NOTE,
however, that a good argument can be made for not using anti-seize, as someone not
knowing the stuff was applied, might then not compensate by reducing the required torque.
I just cannot see any other argument against anti-seize use that is valid....and I can
provide a lot of reasons TO use the stuff.
NOTE: Karle Seyfert, an expert who writes for MOTOR, an INDUSTRY publication,
had an extensive article in MOTOR in March 2013. That article, & some controversy
& comments by one well-known 'guru' in the BMW motorcycle repair business, at
approximately that time on an Internet mailing list, has prompted me to ADD more
commentary to this part of the article you are reading. I have NOT changed my own
practice, intent, or recommendations; but I will give you more information on what
automobile manufacturer's are publishing/recommending!...and some of "WHY!"
Some experienced mechanics believe that if antiseize is used it is 'easier' to over-torque
& damage threads. THAT IS PROBABLY TRUE! BUT, it is true only if the person is
NOT adjusting TORQUE lower, to compensate for the use of anti-seize compound, or,
just being more ham-fisted.
You should be using a torque wrench, AND lowering the official torque value (which is
withOUT antiseize compound unless specifically so-stated). Yes, that means that I
believe the factory torque settings (some, anyway) are too high...even if anti-seize
compound is NOT used, or never has been, on the engine.
Since popular anti-seize compounds act like a lubricant, the applied torque (if that book
value means NO antiseize) MUST be reduced...about 20% reduction is typically
about correct for spark plugs into aluminum.
SOME types of spark plugs, such as taper seat types, are NOT supposed to be used with
regular anti-seize compounds, as they are degree-tightened & so the manufacturer
typically makes a blanket statement not to use anti-seize compounds, applying to all their
spark plugs, rather than providing full information & full information can be slightly more
complicated. BUT: other manufacturers say OK, & give the needed lower torque
values. Some manufacturer's do not mention use of anti-seize at all, & SOME
Some manufacturer's say they are concerned with HEAT conduction, that is, that the
heat range of the spark plug is or could be changed by the use of anti-seize compound.
Frankly, that IS possible, particularly if the torque used is not correct, but with torque being
reasonable, only a SMALL bit of a single heat range would be the change (at worst case,
otherwise none), & even that would very seldom happen, would have NO EFFECT on your
BMW engine...and I believe any such considerations SHOULD BE IGNORED. I have
NOT seen ANY problem in real life situations if the torque is set properly, even if only
close to proper. I also tested for this, with various torques & test runs on a bike, reading
the spark plugs, and it took a fair amount of torque DEcrease to increase the spark
plug heating.
I have used some sort of anti-seize compound on my own various bikes' spark plugs.
I have over 650,000 miles on BMW's. I use it on my customer's bikes, and on other
besides BMW. It was standard operating procedure (SOP) in my shop to always tell
the customer that if anyone ever removes & replaces spark plugs, that they should
account for the use of anti-seize, even if they don't apply any, as it works into the head
metal somewhat. NO PROBLEMS...EVER. I've NEVER 'pulled' spark plug threads out
of my, nor any of my customer's cylinder heads. I NEVER have problems removing my
spark plugs, & my bikes do NOT wear out their threads, even my /2 with 267K miles.
I am IN FAVOR of using anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. I personally feel
that if the official torque values are reduced (assuming originally specified withOUT
anti-seize compound), & you use the anti-seize compound, you are LESS likely to have
pulled thread problems, heat range will be more consistent, & there will be less problems
with hard particles of carbon that deposit themselves into the cylinder head threads,
which, otherwise, can cause excessive WEAR every time you R/R a spark plug. This
is important, & if you have a two-stroke bike, it is even more important (but, important
for BOTH).
Antiseize compounds vary in characteristics, but I have found that all commonly available
ones are OK at the spark plugs.
CAUTION: Using oil or WD40 will tend to eventually result in hard carbon deposits in the
threads, & thus tend to wear the threads & tend to change the effective torque. DO NOT
Stuck/frozen, or other problem: Some manufacturer's recommend "penetrating oil" for
tight plugs during removal. Most fail to tell you to VERY thoroughly REMOVE that
oil before installing a new spark plug. it is also not easy to get penetrating oil
into the spark plug threads with the head on the engine....but if you can safely
unscrew the spark plug SOME, then you can use a thin oil with the head in place.
A mixture of acetone & automatic transmission oil, ~50-50 works BETTER!
ONCE anti-seize compound is ever used, it tends to work its way into the
aluminum head metal. From that point on, it is best to always use anti-seize
compound. Do not use graphite types as they can cause corrosion problems.
NOTE: Some manuals, such as later Clymers, etc., may tell you to put a dab of anti-seize
compound (often specifying aluminum type) on the spark plug threads before installation;
but, these books may forget to tell you to REDUCE the torque!
Some spark plugs seem to have a bit less diameter or other irregularities with the threads
that can promote carbon or wear. Thread & quality control problems have been reported
on Champion & other spark plugs. It has been reported even on Bosch plugs, if not made
in Germany. OVERALL, German Bosch tolerances seem to be better than some other
spark plug manufacturers. NGK makes a GOOD PRODUCT & I have NEVER seen a
problem with NGK plug manufacturing. Bosch MAY plate the threads, which helps avoid
use of anti-seize, if you are so inclined. NGK plates some spark plug bodies, & on some
threads they put a coating or special treatment. I still use anti-seize on all spark plugs
with standard non-tapered seats.
****The latest NGK literature, specifically mentions using anti-seize compound: it should
be used on the UNplated plugs. I will get into this more deeply HERE:
If you were to access the factory repair manuals for many bikes & cars, you would find that
they are NOT consistent with use of anti-seize compound. Some say you must, some don't
say anything, some say you must not. I've already mentioned some of this, & regarding taper
seat plugs, etc.. Now, we get into this a bit more deeply.
2010 Honda Pilot: Honda says to apply antiseize compound.
2007 Subaru Legacy: gives a torque rating 'without oil on the spark plugs, new plugs'. If
lubricated (does not specify type of lubricant) they say to reduce torque by 'approxmately
1/3 of that specified' to 'avoid overstressing'.
Chevy Cobalt says to NOT use antiseize....because if you DO, you will damage the cylinder head
Service information for a LOT of vehicles not mentioned here were checked. BMW cars, Cadillac,
Dodge, Ford, Hyundai, Mazda, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Toyota, VW, Volvo.....all these gave
specific information on torque, but none mentioned anti-seize. I could, obviously, not check for
every model, every year...but, I looked at numerous relatively late model vehicles, & while I did
look at cast iron head engine'd vehicles, I concentrated on aluminum heads.
BMW, motorcycle division, is surprisingly quiet.
NGK, the spark plug manufacturer, gives the strongest advice against using anti-seize...but, in
a way, they also at the SAME TIME give a very strong advice, about why you SHOULD
use anti-seize....at least on THEIR spark plugs. They have an entire technical bulletin on
the subject. Condensing it here for you, they do not want the compound used on plated plugs
(in one place they say all their plugs are like that now...not true, but good enough), & they say
not to use anti-seize compound ON INITIAL INSTALLATION. Then they stop talking about the
plating, & confusingly say that all their plugs are coated with 'special trivalent zinc-chromate shell
plating' which is designed to prevent both corrosion & seizure, eliminating need for compounds
or lubricants. They do not separate the THREADS from the BODY, but it can be implied from
that prior sentence, of course. You must read what NGK says & how, very carefully....because:
Apparently, NGK does not want anyone to remove a spark plug unless a
NEW ONE is then installed.
NGK makes it very difficult to get the information, but here is THEIR information, MY WORDS.
Read this very carefully:
IF...IF...you insist on re-installing an NGK spark plug, even if never actually having run
the engine, you MUST use anti-seize compound. BECAUSE: Once you unscrew the
plug, the NGK super-thin 'plating' coating is, in essence, partially removed permanently,
each time removes more, & the plug can then have galling & other problems.
NGK says nothing directly about what happens to that plating coating, which is another
story entirely. It could be damage-causing, or; well, anything. There is NO INFORMATION.
Autolite spark plug sales information says its plugs are nickel-plated, & says anti-seize compounds
'can have a torque multiplying effect...'....but then says nothing else. However, engineering books
from Autolite say things that contradict its other books' information, & says you MUST USE a
thin-film coating of high-temperature nickel anti-seize...and specifies, specifically, certain plugs &
problems that occur when this is NOT done....in particular the long reach HT plugs (used on Ford
3 valve modular engines, etc...that have WELL-KNOWN plug removal problems).
There is a LOT MORE to all the above; which I abbreviated so as to not bore you too much.
My advice: DO use anti-seize compound, and use my recommended REDUCED torque values.
LOOK at the proper book information. BMW has had various torques, for the same 3/4 reach
14 mm plugs. More later, herein.
I am fine with you using nickel type or copper type of anti-seize compounds. Most anti-seize
compounds contain one or the other or both, & do not specify ...that is, they likely have copper,
but don't say (which contradicts what a certain foul-mouthed maker of videos for BMW bike
repairs says in his videos....about a must to use "copper antiseize').
Amount of torque to use when installing spark plugs:
1. You CAN tighten spark plugs by hand, no torque wrench, once you have a good feel for it,
but use of the torque wrench is HIGHLY recommended. I RECOMMEND YOU USE A
2. I've seen various forces needed to properly seat the crush rings, much of this is because
crush rings vary in how they are made; some are not easily removable from the spark plugs,
so folks don't. Contrary to many books, I am OK with NOT replacing the semi-captive type
crush rings, IF they are in good condition, & IF you use a torque wrench!!! Many books say
1/2 turn on NEW crush rings after the spark plug is JUST seating to the head & rush ring; &
they may also say 1/4 or 1/3 on used crush rings. DO NOT depend on this!
I suggest you do NOT do that on your Airhead nor Classic K.
3. I suggest, strongly, that you use a torque wrench. Keep in mind that not only do you not
want threads pulled, but you also want to maintain the rated spark plug heat value
specification; and, proper torque.
4. Since we all know that many of you are cheapskates & will not use fresh crush rings for
those plugs where they can be removed & replaced, the values I am giving here are
generally safe values, with new or used crush washers/rings...used with a drop of
anti-seize compound spread VERY THINLY onto the clean spark plug threads (fingers work
well for this, you can push the stuff very thinly into the threads). You need NOT cover every
thread....just a wee bit towards the electrodes end THREADS (combustion chamber ends),
pushed into the threads with a finger tip...again, a WEE BIT....is enough. As the plug is
screwed-in, it is spread into the rest of the threads. I personally coat, VERY thinly, all-around.
I use my fingers, or a tiny brush with fairly stiff bristles. The shortened-bristles end of a
common 'acid brush' is perfect if you don't want the stuff on your fingers. DO NOT get
anti-seize compound onto the end of the spark plug area.
3/4" reach, 14 mm, used as top spark plugs, about 14-15 ftlbs. This is the stock top spark
plug size for Airheads.
1/2" reach, 14 mm, about 12-14 ft lbs; this is the commonly used bottom spark plug size on
dual-plug conversions. This torque value is USUALLY...not always... enough to seat the
washer and a tad more. Snug is right. You don't want the plug too loose...if it loosens
and rattles out, that pulls/wears threads. Some have installed smaller spark plugs for
the lower plugs. I've had good results with 8-10 ftlbs for those. Some manuals will show 8-12
in aluminum. Some have installed a welded (to the head) custom-made thick aluminum
washer, or just welded up the material to be thicker, for at the lower spark plug threaded hole,
that allows the top & bottom spark plugs to both be 3/4" reach. If you have this style of lower
spark plug threaded area my recommendation is, as noted above, about 14-15 ftlbs;
EXCEPT if the modification was by an unthreaded spacer, welded or not, then use 14 ftlbs.
With regard to the above various values: UPDATED torque figures, if any, MIGHT be found
in article 71B.
5. One is supposed to, in most older literature, use a brand-new crush washer each time a
plug is removed & replaced, but we all know that most of you won't, & many plugs have the
washers fairly well captive & finding new crush washers is often frustrating. Just be careful
about torque. Many years ago it was common for mechanics to install a fresh washer
each time, and tighten with a common tubular wrench, not a torque wrench, and tighten until
the crush washer was felt to crush & seat, & then increase a certain number of degrees...
and/or by feel. That was done on CAST IRON HEADS. This can still be done, if you have
a decent feel for it, but it is more dangerous to do on aluminum heads. My basic advice
is, and I am hammering you on this with repeating it: wee bit of antiseize, torque
wrench, proper torque.
What about installing Clean and Dry (NOT with anti-seize compound)??
With no anti-seize 'ever' used on your heads, or exceptionally clean threads, you can torque
to 16 footpounds (do not exceed 18) on the TOP plugs. If you have the 1/2" reach 14 mm
bottom plugs, you can go towards 13-14.
18 ftlbs MAXIMUM for clean & dry threads is my personal limit for 3/4" reach plugs, which
are the standard top plugs for Airheads. Clean & Dry here, means NO antiseize, or, none
OFFICIAL BMW Service Information sheet on the late Airheads:
18.4 ftlbs (3/4" reach). Don't use that figure for threads with anti-seize compound.
*****The latest Bosch manuals, for 14 mm spark plugs in BOTH aluminum & cast iron heads,
recommend 7-15 ft lbs. That is NOT oiled NOR antiseized!!! Unfortunately, no further information
about the thread length, is given. MY opinion is that up to 16 is safe on the 3/4 reach plugs....
NOT antiseize coated; but 7 is too low. Best you follow my advice given earlier.
Some years ago it was common was to see 14 mm spark plugs specified in plug manuals at
26-30 ftlbs (!!!) in cast iron; 18-22 ftlbs in aluminum. NO allowance for short or longer thread
types was usually shown. Do NOT use such values!!!
Removing spark plugs.... and repairing spark plug threaded holes:
It is not uncommon to see damaged spark plug threaded holes in the cylinder heads. This
comes from excessive torque, dirty carbone'd threads, etc. If the threads are in need of
repair, you may....or may not....be able to 'reform' them, withOUT installing a Helicoil. Some
experience & inspection with #1 eyeball, should tell you yes or no. If one EVER uses
anti-seize at a spark plug, that material can impregnate the threads, & thereafter it
is best to continue with anti-seize, & to REDUCE maximum torque. This is especially
so with aluminum, & rather less so with steel inserts; & about in the middle with
cast iron heads.
IF you find a spark plugs that, upon a SMALL AMOUNT of loosening, seems to
tighten up appreciably, STOP!!!!
Now is the time to try to avoid thread damage!! Use a lubricating penetrant. A homemade
50-50 mixture of ATF in acetone really is better than commercial penetrating oil products!!
Apply the mixture several times;...allow to soak, even overnight if need be; & then remove
the spark plug carefully to avoid damaging the threads. This means, sometimes, using a
tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen approach. Flood the threads with more penetrant if needed.
In some instances the penetrant can be used without removing the head, but be careful,
do not damage the threads by using too much removal torque;...take your time.
Snowbum heats up the head (running the engine is best for this), and then tries spark plug
removal. NO excessive torque, no matter if hot, or oiled, or anything.
How to clean up & prepare damaged threads; the head being left in place on the engine:
(if just carboned, try using hand-rotary motion on a shotgun cleaning brush)
To prevent any chips from getting into the cylinder, there are various ways. These INclude
using a lot of grease on the tap (MY method); filling the cylinder with shaving cream (must
be cleaned out later); using a vacuum cleaner in reverse to pressurize the cylinder from
the intake, exhaust valve open). ... Or, a combination of things.
If you are installing a Helicoil with the head still on the cylinder, you may want to use the
grease-on-tap method & the pressure method, both at the same time & do wear eye
protection. That usually works quite well. NOTE that it is critical that the threads be 100%
DEgreased before installing the Helicoil, & the Helicoil may be locked in place by using
Loctite RED during its installation (do NOT forget to have the Helicoil below the surface!).
Allow the RED Loctite to FULLY cure for a couple of days, then clean the threads VERY
thoroughly with a strong solvent, such as acetone or MEK, and a brush, BEFORE installing
the spark plug (treat the threads with a very thin amount of anti-seize compound)!!!
LOCTITE!... You do NOT want to Loctite your spark plugs into the Helicoil!
The heads get pretty hot & Loctite only gives a small amount of holding power when the
head is hot. In an emergency situation, or if you don't want to wait a few days, or?.....just
clean the threads & install the Helicoil, & ride away.
It is VERY important to have a guide machined to allow exactly 90° drilling AND a guide
machined for the the tap.. to start threads dead square to the surface, & continue with
the tool dead square. Guides should be used for both drilling & tapping. Tap handles
often have a centering recess in one end, helpful with some jobs that can lay flat....you
are unlikely to use that feature on the heads.
Here is a method to try if the threads are not too bad:
Be sure the piston is not too near being fully outwards. Take a small piece of cloth, & roll
it up to fit moderately tightly in the spark plug hole. Soak in penetrant, let sit overnight.
The next day, use a shotgun cleaning brass brush with a solvent or even the penetrant, to
clean the threads. Then use a good fresh sharp 14 mm tap that is well-greased. Keep the
tap quite squarely to the surface. Back the tap out often. Use a bit of White Lead or good
cutting compound meant for aluminum materials, on the tap during the thread reforming.
You can use anti-seize compound for this if you wish. In many instances the tap will
reform the threads, rather than cut them (it may do both). I then thoroughly clean the
threads, leaving the threads clean & dry. THEN I put a dab of anti-seize.....not much...
on the first 4 threads from the spark plug electrode tip end before installing the new spark
plug. I then torque properly. Do NOT spread a lot of antiseize onto plug threads. You want
to totally avoid getting any on the ceramic tip area, where it WILL electrically short circuit
the plug.
NOTE: When doing threads or Helicoil work, be sure to have the piston down from TDC
(down from OT mark)... enough so that drills, taps, etc., will not strike the piston. Do not go
too far with this, or there will be lots more volume which takes too much shaving cream foam,
or too much air movement to blow out the chips.
Resistor caps:
There are reasons I do not recommend resistor spark plugs from ANY manufacturer for BMW
Airhead motorcycles. The main reason to use 'Resistor' plugs is to reduce the current in the
spark & leads, thereby reduce Radio Frequency Interference (RFI). A side benefit is that the
reduced current will DEcrease spark plug electrode wear.
It is possible that another reason might have been spark duration time....as resistance can
slightly increase the length of time the spark lasts, allowing better igniting of the fuel-air
mixture...up to a point, & then the energy level during part of the striking arc falls off, &
performance suffers. There are also arguments against that theory of spark (plasma)
duration; then one gets into electrical spark characteristics in some esoteric ways, so I
won't go further with that here. One final argument deals with resistors upsetting the
relationship between specified COIL secondary resistance and the spark.
There can be real problems with spark plugs that contain "resistors". I'll get into a bit later on.
Suffice it to say that a real resistor is incorporated into the stock or NGK aftermarket spark
plug resistor-type caps. Values of 1000 or 1200 ohms on early bikes with points ignition; and,
5000 ohms on some later points ignition bikes (1000 is OK for them), and ONLY 5000 ohm
caps on the electronics ignition models (1981+).
Some types of RFI can affect other things, such as electronic ignitions & electronic tachometers,
sometimes in strange ways. In our Airheads, the resistance in the plug caps have SEVERAL
functions...here are a few...more following this paragraph. (1) reduce the erosion of the
electrodes in the spark plugs. (2) RFI. (3) Protect against RFI being conducted into wiring
& thereby getting to the Hall element in the canister on 1981+ models....it can destroy that part.
(4) Interference with the tachometer.
You will find the same cautions for various reasons with such as the Boyer Microdigital ignition, etc.
If one uses resistor plugs and non-resistor caps, there is a danger that you (or someone)
might install non-resistor plugs later on, injuring your electronic ignition. If you install
both resistor plugs & resistor caps, your spark can become too weak to reliably fire the
mixture, particularly in leaner-running bikes. This has been seen with 5,000 ohm caps
& resistor spark plugs at the same time. Yes, I am aware that BMW does it on some K
bikes...but, did you know the original spec was resistor CAPS, only?
On the POINTS airheads, especially the points models with two coils before 1979, the stock caps
were about 1000 ohms in the earliest years, then later went to 5000 ohms. A change on only
points models, from 5000 back to 1000 ohms MIGHT give some extra ignition performance in
the highest rpm area...near redline+-.....& probably help in starting in cold weather; & in other
marginal situations. Thus, 1000 ohm caps are OK, in my opinion, for POINTS models. In fact,
I recommend the 1K caps for POINTS models.
The 1981+ models have more energy coming from the coil(s), & are designed for & easily handle
the 5000 ohm caps...BUT anything under 2500 ohms is likely to damage the ignition on 1981+
models. Do not misconstrue my words here. For the electronic ignition models, I recommend
the 5K caps & NOT to use resistor plugs!...although you MAY get away with using both,
without a degradation in performance.
>>>SOME 'resistor' spark plugs are not true resistor plugs...they have a small coil of wire wound
to act like an electronic 'choke' (inductor), and may be so wound to incorporate a capacitance effect
as well. The electronic ignition may NOT like it, & I can speculate about some potential problems.
That same sort of thing was done with spiral-wrapped ignition wire....sold as Suppression Wire,
where it was NOT really resistance suppression wire. You can measure the plug, if curious....
with an ohmmeter.
For those who want originality: Original type Beru metal cap spark plug caps; wires, and other
bits, assorted styles, are available from: www.euromotoelectrics.com
Bosch has been dropping the availability of NON-resistor spark plugs. I expect,
per what Bosch technical support folks have told me, that eventually you will not
be able to purchase Bosch spark plugs withOUT resistors, except, perhaps, for
awhile, from BMW bike dealers. Bosch has told me that the nominal value for
the resistors in their plugs is going to be 2000 to 6000 ohms. At this time I can
NOT recommend, & in fact I specifically caution against, using Bosch "resistor"
plugs in 1981+ models, or any models you have converted to electronic ignition.
I do NOT like to see ANY resistor plugs at all in Airheads. You COULD use
resistor plugs from Bosch if you removed the resistor spark plug caps & installed
zero ohm caps on POINTS models ONLY.
The worst thing about what Bosch is doing is that they have, purposely, or
accidentally,....SOMETIMES put these resistor plugs in the older small cardboard
boxes with wrong printing. If you purchase a Bosch spark plug (they DO make
quality plugs! ...the German made ones anyway), check the box contents...read the
number off the plug metal body itself, do NOT depend on the box numbers! NOTE
ESPECIALLY, that Bosch has gone to a 4 digit part number for plugs. There is no
good way for you to tell if the plug is a resistor type, or not, from just that number,
unless you KNOW, & especially if it is the only number ON THE PLUG. There is
more on this box problem later in this article! Your BMW bike dealership, if it
orders plugs from BMW, will probably have the non-resistor plugs, & with the old
part numbers on them....but, be sure. I am not going to try to keep up with that.
Just look at the markings on the spark plug metal body. NO R allowed in the part
number...if it is a conventional old Bosch number.
NON-projected nose spark plugs MAY foul and/or misfire. Platinum-tipped or other precious
metal tipped plugs ..very especially with more than one surrounding ground electrode ...are
a waste of money & may well NOT give reliable ignition...they can, at a minimum, occasionally
misfire & even if you don't feel it in engine performance, they can waste fuel. Single ground
electrode, projected nose, platinum-tipped plugs are OK, but a WASTE of money; there is
some indication that these 'fine electrode' platinum plugs are NOT as good as the STOCK
types. Of course, this is contrary to manufacturer's advertising....nothing new about that sort
of thing. BMW did engineering work to ensure that the incoming charge is swirled & passes
'just so' at the spark plug. Save your money, DO NOT buy specialty spark plugs, not even
those from Bosch.... but DO purchase Bosch-German or NGK standard spark plugs; NON
resistor types. Avoid Champion spark plugs, I don't like the threads I've seen on some of them.
AVOID lesser brand plugs, AVOID specialty electrode plugs.
The latest NGK Iridium spark plugs are constructed with a double shelf, or call it a tiny step
in the insulator side near the end. This offers a secondary spark area, that also cleans the
center area. PRELIMINARY tests CONFIRM NGK's claims. I have yet to do dyno tests on
any BMW bike with this type plug.
Do NOT use resistor plugs. If the part number on the spark plug body has an R in
it, it is a resistor plug. Some plug makers, including Bosch in its new numbering
system (which I dislike, they offer no information by number as to head range nor
size).... do not use that R, simply using an all numbers no letters part number, so
BEWARE! If you INSIST on using resistor plugs because you are too lazy to wait for
an order for the non-resistor types, & use the stock resistor caps, your ignition MAY
be a bit weak, but I don't see any problems beyond, MAYBE, hard starting &
occasional misfiring & wasting fuel...depending a whole bunch on engine &
electricals condition. You may not even notice any misfiring...but your fuel mileage
WILL or MIGHT suffer.
Using spark plugs that have an extended nose/tip is important for proper
combustion on an Airhead and K bike engine.
This is edited from something I posted to the K-bmw list.
Where precious metal (iridium, platinum...) spark plugs have value is on vehicles that
don't have the spark plugs replaced very often; and/or, that have quite powerful ignitions.
Years & years ago there were almost no such ignitions, & the usage of long lasting
precious metal spark plugs was for industrial pumping engines, etc. More recently,
especially in the nineties & to the present, many cars have manufacturer's recommend
plug changes as late as even 100K miles. This is primarily due to the use of UNleaded
fuels, & the exceptionally clean burning of modern uel injected engines. Many modern
cars are running somewhat higher rpm, more sparks per mile, & using very high powered
ignition systems....that can be harder on spark plug electrodes; they can erode away
faster. For these vehicles, I almost always recommend you use the manufacturer's
stated make and model of spark plug.
Those of you that no longer have or use leaded fuels, AND use FULL synthetic oils (and
in some instances part-synthetics), may well find that your spark plugs can last 50K miles
in your bike. DO NOT bend the ground electrode after use, the plugs will usually work fine
even up to even 0.040"+- gap.
Some of the new spark plugs with two grounding electrodes come pre-gapped, & the gap
is wider than your manual says to use. Leave the gap alone. Example is the plug that
BMW started specifying for the K1200 models: Bosch XLR7DC
Those can be used, in some models and situations, with non-resistor or 1K resistor caps.
In the old days, before the change to unleaded fuel in the eighties, spark plugs HAD to be
replaced around 10,000 to 15,000 miles due to leaded fuel fouling. Mechanics would often
sand-blast the plugs in a special blasting machine, and get more life. Leaded fuels are now
long gone in the USA; and, the present additives, which do deposit somewhat on the spark
plugs, are vastly less inclined to electrically foul the spark plugs. Engines are running
leaner, which means more heat, and the spark plugs are being specified to run slightly
hotter to keep deposits reasonable....all these things keep the spark plug cleaner...but eat
spark plug metal a tad faster in some situations, and in others, LESS wear. Because
modern engines are fuel-injected and burn as lean as possible and very close to optimum
at nearly all times; they need high powered ignition systems. Most cars have high
performance ignition systems.....many have separate coils for each cylinder and/or
fast rise times on the spark, and lots of Joule's (a measure of total energy in the spark).
These systems can kill. It is true that nearly all cars that don't have a coil located at each
spark plug, have series resistances in the ignition...that reduces the current & also makes
the spark have a bit better duration & spark plugs last longer. Spark duration due to
resistance effects is not totally accepted by all folks or engineering nerds.
High powered ignitions can really eat electrodes, particularly if the resistance in the circuit
is low. There are some cars that have a polarity reversing method in their ignition systems....
every other spark is reversed in polarity...this helps a small amount with erosion, but not
so good with ignition performance...unless the energy is increased...which IS done!.....the
net result IS an improvement in lowering over-all electrode wear. There are also problems
with the cars that are using one coil per two cylinders...they need increased electrical energy.
So, modern cars CAN be hard on spark plugs....and CAN, often, use precious metal-tipped
plugs to advantage:
1. The precious metal lasts longer, so gaps are more constant, erode less.
2. The precious metal plugs typically have smaller central electrode, leading to higher
temperature of the center electrode being possible with somewhat easier spark initiation.
One method of reducing the rate of constantly but slowly increasing spark gap, due to
spark/plasma erosion, is to use precious metals, which, for various reasons, do not erode
so quickly. Higher resistances, such as the use of 5K caps are also helpful in reducing
current (not voltage), which reduces metal erosion.
I see no reason to pay premium prices for an Airhead or BMW Classic K bike's spark
plugs....at least not for Iridium or Platinum tips. BUT...if you are going to try for 50,000
miles on your plugs, you might be interested in trying them. Some of the fine wire spark
plugs have another feature that is hard to describe. NGK has been at the forefront on this.
The insulator at the tip has a taper and a L shelf. This can improve the performance. It
is hard to do this with a large size central tip, so these are fine-wire precious metal spark
plugs. They work well in K bikes.
There ARE reasons to use certain types of spark plugs. In a Service Information Bulletin
for the K1200, BMW went from the recommended Bosch XR5DC (Earliest prior K models
had X5D, then X5DC, and then XR5D) to a dual ground electrode type XR7LDC. The
XR7LDC has been adopted by many BMW dealerships for prior K models. The two
spark plugs have seemingly equivalent heat ranges in practice (in the K BIKE), ....so never
mind the 5 versus 7 here. I do think the 7 is SLIGHTLY hotter, by MAYBE half a step, in
practice. This thin center & dual grounding electrode plug lasts longer, offers slightly better
ignition under some types of conditions....so goes the theory. Many will substitute NGK
or other plugs, some are listed in the K bike section well below, and these have been
substituted quite successfully, that are conventional electrode; for the somewhat special
K bike plugs used on some models. That they MIGHT be wasting a teeny bit of fuel is not
noticeable to them. I am not sure they ARE wasting fuel, as it is difficult to measure.
The in-expensive 4163 spark plug is an example of this substituting.
The XR7LDC comes pre-set for gap. It is wider than you are used to.
Do not change the gap!!! DOES NOT FIT AIRHEADS.
There is a LOT of snake oil hype regarding spark plugs. Do NOT carry over my dual
grounding electrode remarks to include all other engines. It is a KNOWN fact that the
type of combustion chamber coupled with the intake mixture direction, on the
AIRHEADS, is such that a dual electrode spark plug is WORSE than the stock
single electrode. This has to do with the pathway of the mixture to and through/over
the spark plug gap area. The so-called split tail or dual grounding electrode
plugs that are hyped, SplitFire, and others, are NOT of ANY help. Worse ....for
Airheads...are the multiple grounding electrode shrouded centers...almost always MUCH
WORSE than stock. I have removed multiple shrouded plugs (EVEN Bosch +4 Platinum's)
from Airheads because they work lousily....& I can quote other examples.
NOTE: A technique called INDEXING is often used in RACING (and a FEW stock
cars too, like the Honda Insight), for various purposes, including reducing metal-to-metal
interference in very high compression ratio engines, & to point the gap at the intake valve,
supposedly this will help with initiating rich mixtures, etc. Yes, it helps. No, it does not help
on stock or near stock Classic K bikes and similarly stock or near stock Airheads.
The bottom line, for AIRHEAD owners, with stock or near stock engines (increased
compression ratio or dual plugs is considered near stock by ME), is to use single ground
electrode, extended nose spark plugs, & use of the cheaper larger center electrode plugs
works fine.
NOTE: As noted earlier....on Airhead dual-plugged heads... it is somewhat common to
use a lower spark plug that is one heat range step hotter, as for various reasons the
lower spark plug may otherwise tend to carbon-up faster.
VERY OLD Bosch numbers:
Bosch made these spark plugs, used on some bikes:
W240T1 was 1/2" reach, 14 mm threads, same as later W4AC. This plug was used
on the BMW singles & a few pre-Airhead twins. The 3/4" reach, 14 mm
threads version of this plug was used on those twins that took 3/4" reach
spark plugs; typical numbers were W3CC; W4CC; W5CC.
W240R2 was 3/4" reach, same as later W4C2
W260T1 was 1/2" reach, same as W3A1
W260T2 was 3/4" reach, same as later W4C1.
After so many years there is confusion over how these plugs were numbered & identified.
The above is the best information I have at the moment....but, see the CHART below.
Bosch no longer has the very old type numbers in their catalogs. Bosch has recently
transitioned even their recent plugs to 4 digit numbers, see the chart below.
In the plugs like the W230T30, as the "230" went higher in number, the plug got COLDER.
Exactly the opposite of the newer Bosch W numbers in the chart below.
Equivalents, Bosch, NGK, etc:
(Snowbum has charts crossing over almost every make of spark plug, even old English
types, even back into the 1920's...).
Bosch Plugs with 'BC' are the 1/2" reach for BOTTOM plugs in those dual-plugged
bikes that take 14 mm size and not metal-added; 'DC' are 3/4" reach for top plugs.
Sometimes spark plugs from one manufacturer are in-between a heat range of another
manufacturer, or have a slightly wider heat range capability;....thus you see the Bosch
6 & 7 series being covered by the NGK 6 series.
Warning!.....Bosch WR plugs (not recommended for airheads) may have the wrong
gaps for airheads! Check the gaps! Bosch plugs beginning with WR are resistor
plugs!! They are not directly interchangeable with the spark plugs not having the
"R"...no matter what Bosch or a salesman says!
WARNING!....Bosch plugs with a + sign at the ending MIGHT really be resistor plugs!!...
even if the part number does NOT have an R in it!!
Spark plug heat ranges are not 'exact' oftentimes when trying to cross one
manufacturer's number with another. Complicating this is that spark plugs were
improved over the years, & a single part number may now cover an actual slightly
wider heat range.
See the 'comments' column; and, the various notes in RED.
Do NOT use resistor plugs. If the part number on the spark plug body has an R
in it, it is a resistor plug. Some plug makers, including Bosch in its new numbering
system (which I dislike, they offer no information by number as to head range nor
size).... do not use that R, simply using an all numbers no letters part number, so
BEWARE! If you INSIST on using resistor plugs because you are too lazy to wait for
an order for the non-resistor types, & use the stock resistor caps, your ignition
MAY be a bit weak, but I don't see any problems beyond, MAYBE, hard starting &
occasional misfiring & wasting fuel...depending a whole bunch on engine &
electricals condition. You may not even notice any misfiring...but your fuel
mileage WILL or MIGHT suffer.
|BOSCH, early
BC/DC Bosch
Bosch number series
NGK, older
|NGK with removable nut
|NGK withOUT removable nut
|W5 covers both W225T30 and the colder W230T30. BMW part number 12-12-1-338-146; BE SURE if purchasing from BMW dealership or independent, that the plug is NOT WR5DC
|Champion N-9YC can work OK, if you cannot find NGK or the part from BMW. BMW part number 12-12-1-338-145; BE SURE if purchasing from BMW dealership or independent, that the plug is NOT WR6DC
|BMW sold the Bosch W7DC as number 12-12-1-267-485. May be found as 12-12-9-062-594. BE SURE if purchasing from BMW dealership or independent, that the plug is NOT WR7DC. Some time ago, the Beru 14/7DU was available as BMW number 12-12-1-265-595. BMW also sold the Champion equivalent as 12-12-1-338-147.
Higher numbers are colder. That is, W230 is colder than a W175.
Higher numbers are hotter
Bosch plugs above ending in C cover a slightly wider heat range than the non-C and early Bosch to the left. Higher numbers are HOTTER
Be careful with these types of numbers, as you want to be SURE the ACTUAL spark plug, for your Airhead, no matter what the carton has printed on it, is a NON-resistor. See note in paragraph after this chart.
Higher numbers are COLDER
|BMW dealerships & Independents may carry the NON-resistor Bosch Spark Plugs. See the notes, above. Be sure that you do NOT get the WR..... spark plugs, which have resistors.
Bosch has, on occasion, put their
resistor plugs in the small cardboard boxes that are marked for
the non-resistor plugs. Also reported to me was that the number on the box for non-resistor used to
start as 0-241-; and Bosch MAY be putting resistor plugs into those boxes, with the boxes showing 0-242-.
My answer to this is to NOT trust what the box says...open it and see what is printed on the plug base
metal. I'm anal enough to use an ohmmeter on the center electrode!
Here is an enlarged picture showing what one Bosch box end looks like. Do not trust anything on that
box end...look at the markings on the plug metal itself. You might find this box contains a resistor plug.
Airheads spark plug gaps:
Gapping brand-new plugs for Airheads, these plugs have been NEVER EVER RUN, use 0.6 mm,
0.024" (preferred); ...to 0.7 mm, 0.028".
If they need gap setting, be very careful not to damage the central insulator. The place to put the
bending pressure is close to the central electrode/insulator, but do NOT pressure the white
insulator. Plug gap will open up as the miles accumulate & the ground electrode will dish a bit.
Erosion/Dishing can be at the center electrode if the ignition coils are wrongly connected.
Once worn, the gap should be measured with a ROUND WIRE gauge. My quite old
recommendation was that if plug is worn to over over 0.8 mm (0.032"), to throw them away.
Part of that recommendation was that leaded-fuels were in use. With unleaded fuels I now
think that wear up to 0.040", and possibly a bit more, is OK.
I am aware that some books say to use or set gaps to 0.7 mm (0.028") & some literature say
that up to 0.9 mm is OK for late eighties to 1995. DO NOT gap-set previously run spark plugs.
Due to leaded gasoline having gone bye-bye, spark plugs will last a lot longer than they used to.
In the leaded gas days, spark plugs in a clean burning engine would last 15K-20K at very best.
Double that is pretty common these days for Airheads, & some have gone 60K. I am OK with
running spark plugs for as long as they work well; PROVIDING that the gap has not worn too
far (not over .040" generally, but perhaps slightly more); & the ground electrode is NOT
dangerously thinned.
****Once a spark plug has been in an engine and run ...EVER, ... DO NOT EVER adjust the gap.
The reason is that ground electrodes in the spark plugs change their metal structure once
heated; bending them can weaken them; there is a possibility, although this is quite rare, that
the electrode will break off & damage the engine.
Spark Plugs for Classic K bikes (K1, K75, K100, K1100, all versions of these models):
(you can add K1200 here too, see text above, well above, and here)
These bikes use a 12 mm 3/4" reach spark plug.
These are 5/8" or 11/16" hex depending on whose plug you use. Keep THAT in mind as
you might have only one spark plug wrench size, & a larger size may not fit well
considering the size of the 'casting hole area' around the spark plug.
The spark plugs used on the Classic K bikes were specified, depending on the year of
the manual, BMW SI's, etc, as: X5D; X5DC; XR5DC, and XR7LDC which was the last
update, and actually was for the K1200, but is applicable to the earlier K models. The
XR7LDC has a dual grounding electrode. "R" in a plug number means it is a resistor
type. BMW K bikes had 5KΩ spark plug caps. The K75 bikes had a GAP in the spark
plug lead, thus cannot be as easily measured for the spark plug cap resistance.
Except for the XR7LDC, the plugs should be gapped (bend the ground electrode ONLY
if the plug is 100% brand-new, never run in an engine) at 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024"-0.028").
The XR7LDC comes pre-gapped, wider than that just mentioned. Do NOT change its
gap. Be a bit cautious about what you may think you know about heat ranges. An
example is that the XR7LDC is nearly the same heat range as a XR5DC, in actual
use IN THE K BIKE.
It is perfectly OK to use NON-resistor X5D or X5DC spark plugs.
NGK makes a 12 mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, sparkplug. Model DCPR7E, new number
3932, has removable terminals, tapered, shelf'd insulator, unsure of gap they come with.
It supposedly is a substitute for the DR7EIX, a fine wire iridium plug, #5686, that is
substituted for the Bosch XR7LDC; the TIP lasts longer.
NGK equivalents such as the D7EA (7912) and DR7EA (7839) work fine in BMW
Classic K-bikes.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the original non-resistor, large electrode,
inexpensive type of spark plugs in a Classic K bike!!! The electronics is protected
by the 5000 ohm spark plug caps.
Another spark plug that has been proven to work well, and is INexpensive, is the
Autolite 4163.
When installing rubber covers (boots) over the spark plug wires where they
fit over the neck of the spark plug caps, lightly coat the inside of the rubber
cover with silicone dielectric grease. Do not use the stuff on the electric
contacts or contacting area. Use it on the RUBBER. This caution applies to
the rubber cover (boots) at the spark plug cap, and to the rubber boot at the
coils. If the coil electrical fitting end of the wire is tight-fitting into the coil
internal metal contact, it may not cause a problem, but do it correctly anyway.
The application will make removing the boots easier, and prevent electrical
contact corrosion from the elements, etc. You can coat the spark plug white
outer area a bit too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug Lots of information, explained differently,
but clearly.
Reference information: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/resistor_covers.pdf
covers the below information and more.
Below is a chart on NGK spark plug
caps, which are very popular with the Airhead
community. Very commonly available is the LB01EP and LB01F; and LB05 series.
LB01E new number 8011
LB01EP new number 8328
LB05E new number 8031
LB05EP new number 8020
LB05FP new number 8030
LB05F new number 8051
Here is a link to NGK's article on the caps & wire assemblies.
It is much more detailed than the above:
NOTE! You will likely NOT find all those NGK spark plug cap models available to
you. The most common type available is the LB01 and LB05 type. Note carefully
before you purchase ANY, as to the next letter following. That is, note the E and F
above. STOCK BMW spark plug wires come with caps that have varied in style
(some are metal covered, some fully molded, etc, and caps have varied from a
nominal 1000 ohms or 5000 ohms)....but one thing is common to ALL the STOCK
BMW Airhead caps: they are designed to fit onto the THREADED post of the
spark plug. There ARE spark plugs that do NOT have removable threaded caps,
so watch out for those too. Be sure that whatever spark plug cap you use is
compatible to the spark plug itself. Take into consideration that you might be using
some sort of shorting device or adaptor when synchronizing carburetors, so that is
also a consideration if you should change your type of plug or cap type. NGK spark
plug caps last a long time.... AND, I have almost never seen a failure of the resistor
element inside them.
04/22/2003: clarifications and emphasis here and there.
08/09/2003: edit for clarity
08/13/2004: minor editing for additional clarity, including more detailed information
on previously anti-seized threads.
09/13/2005: Add section on resistor plugs and wires, etc.
01/11/2007: update with latest information, and add the NGK chart
03/25/2007: add equivalents, Bosch and NGK
03/27/2007: Rearrange order of last items on page, add more information on the
Bosch Plugs problems.
09/16/2007: Clean up
01/06/2008: remove bad hyperlink to old Bosch plugs at automotive-tradition.de
01/15/2008: Totally revise the article, combining information on holes, etc., from
Engine Internals, ETC.
10/01/2008: add section expanding on special spark plugs
11/09/2008: add OLD Bosch numbers section
01/18/2010: go through entire article, improve clarity; fix errors, clean up emphasis
items, etc.
10/30/2010: Add new NGK numbers
10/31/2010: Clean up article somewhat and add final note to the NGK information, in red.
01/01/2011: Add really old Bosch numbers
04/25/2011: Add photo and description of the three plugs at the top of the page.
01/01/2012: Add Euromotoelectics link
02/16/2012: expand warnings about regapping.
03/31/2012: Revise article, make table of equivalents, etc. NO errors were found nor
corrected on prior version.
undated, 2012: remove indexing section.
04/01/2012: Clean up more of article. Clarify that it is the exhaust valve, not both, that
are to be open if not removing head for insert installation.
04/03/2012: A bit more work on the table-chart, and eliminate duplications earlier.
04/07/2012: Add more information on NGK spark plugs to the table-chart.
10/14/2012: Add QR code, add language button, update Google Ad-Sense code
12/10/2012: Clean up article a fair amount. Add Airhead gapping information in detail.
sometime in 2013: Remove language button; coding was causing problems with SOME browsers.
03/14/2013: Much deeper into the controversy over using, or not, antiseize compounds. This was
added as few understand that I have REAL data, & REAL industry information, that
is not, seemingly, read by those who have FAULTY ideas on the subject.
09/17/2014: clean up article, mostly for use with smaller screens.
02/04/2015: Clean up article once more, nothing substantial changed in values/methods.
08/23/2015: 0716 Pcst time. Release two updates, combined, since March.
11/13/2-15: Clean up article presentation. Meta updates. Add more comments to the chart on
spark plugs, etc.
12/15/2015: Final meta-data fix. Clean up article, justifying to left, etc., for better presentation
on smaller devices.
12/16/2015: Clarify BMW part numbers and Bosch cautions. Wasn't any errors.
12/25/2015: Minor clarifications about torque values
© Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer
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text:
Hottest Punchlines Ever
|11 years ago
|class of '04 - away - #1
20999 pageviews
40 comments
What's tha top 3 punchlines ever put on wax?
Boxden u have tha floor...
|class of - - #5
"Im On Top Of My Game Like Im Standing On Xbox" (Jae Hood)
"You Got A Gut Feeling About Sheek That Means You Shot" (Sheek Louch)
"Ill Snatch Your Lungs Out And Throw Them Back At You So You Can Catch Your Breath" (Locksmith)
"You Better Watch Out Before sh*t Gets Crucial, My Guns Like My d!ck Bigger Than Usual" (Cassidy)
"My Flows Insane, For You To Win You Need Lucky Charms A Lepracaun, and Lil Flip's Chain" (Lloyd Banks)
"I Light Up Trees Like Every Days Christmas" (Lloyd Banks)
These are just a few jae hood has millions fu*k that all of dblock has millions...
|11 years ago
|class of '04 - away - #8
|11 years ago
|class of '04 - away - #10
I Suppose u was told by those hoes I was cheatin/
but my heart aint got nothin to do with my p*nis
He got a mind of his own and he jus be seein sh*t/
and I dont wanna cheat but I dont be sayin sh*t
I try to jack off he be like who is u playin wit?
but I know he love u he told me u was his favorite (Kanye West) Number One w/ John Legend
sh*t is funny to me
|11 years ago
|class of '04 - away - #13
Big L:
Ask Beavis I get nuttin Butthead..
|11 years ago
|class of '04 - away - #15
"birds flying upside down over your head cuz you aint worth sh*tting on" - Chino XL
"fu*ken punk you aint a leader what/ nobody followed you/ your mother should've swallowed you" - Big L
"to be besides myself i need god next to me" - Cunninlynguists
"I'm so ahead of my time my parents haven't met yet" - Big L
"I'm so ahead of my time my parents are still in diapers and teething" - Chino XL
"to disresepct you i would have had had respected you at one time" - Chino XL
The past is the history, the future is a mystery, today is a gift thats why we call it the present -sticky Fingaz
"I was told two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left" - Ras Kass
"Food for thought, see how long it takes to digest" Eminem
"bi*ch please/ you must have a mental disease/ a.ssume the position and get back down on your knees" - Xzibit
"I'm so sick i make the aids virus look like to common cold" - Tha Bo Rat
"So just incase you dont remember me, i'll run your brain around the block to jog your fu*ken memory" - Eminem(313)
"You could date a stick of dynamite and wouldnt go out with a bang" - Eminem(313)
"you couldn't make the fans throw up their hands if they swallowed their fingers" - Eminem(313)
"I shout with a slang as simple as the ABC's/ skip over the D's/ and rock the microphone with Ease" - Eminem(313)
here is a link to 313 by eminem cuz it is a great track lyrically and if you participate in this thread you should check the song....fix the link
hxxp://s11.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=017999BDBBF2FD0CD2ED9016C423 15CF
a song that is all punchlines and is great - Scram Jones - "over your head"...here's the link, fix the link
hxxp://s11.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=B4275F0B4B86A1490532E0B2FF22 DE6A
here is the song all those chino xl lines are from...i forget the name of it right now, but a great track none the less full of punchlines
hxxp://s11.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=BA9F0FFB28291C61EAF8E839CA7F9 7A8
thats all i can think of right now.......maybe mroe later, if you appreciate the song links, hit the props button, dont just leech
|11 years ago
|class of '04 - away - #16
Also. "I ran trough every bi*ch in my path, i've been fu*kin ckicks in the a.ss since i was six and a half"
"Fillin motherfu*kers up with so much lead they can use their d!ck as a pencil"
Big L is the G.O.A.T. of punchlines and in the top 3 of G.O.A.T.'s period
r.i.p. Big L
Last edited by meelmuis; 12-20-2004 at 08:11 AM..


text:
WINCHFIELD INN3 Self rated
Station Hill Winchfield, Hook, RG27 8BX
Price FromView Rooms
- Very Good
- 4 guest reviews
"The listing on laterooms promised much but the room shown in the photos was not the room we were given. Clean but dated, comfortable but the..."
"After spending a while looking for a place to sleep for a couple of nights I settled on the Whicfield. It turned out to be a good choice. Ch..."
"Arrived too late for dinner but I had phoned ahead and the Inn had made me a sandwich. My stay was perfectly suited to my needs and a first..."
"In the middle of winter, with dark nights, the Winchfield Inn was home from home. The owners Pat and Lynne were welcoming and friendly. Ther..."
About the hotel
For over two centuries travellers and local residents have enjoyed the hospitality comfort excellent ale, fine fayre and beautiful surroundings of this charming 17th century inn. The Inn is conveniently situated near Winchfield Railway Station, with ample parking facilities and easy access from all major roads in the area. Surroundings are rural, restful and ideal as a meeting place for visitors or locals, or for those needing accommadation while visiting one of the many industrial centres in the area.
The Winchfield inn has formerly been called the Beauclerk Arms and more recently Woodys Inn. It still retains many original features, yet provides modern accomadation at competitive rates. ALL ROOMS ARE EN-SUITE WITH COLOUR TV, COMPLIMENTARY WELCOME TRAY TEA, COFFEE, AND CHOCOLATE. Hair dryer and ironing board available on request. Laundry service available for long stay residents.
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Room Availability
Showing Thursday 11 February 2016 to Friday 12 February 2016Change Search
Facilities Show/hide
- Main
- Hotel Non-Smoking Throughout , Disabled Facilities
- Parking
- Car parking available onsite
- Business
- Wi-Fi Available , In-room Broadband , Wi-Fi Available In Public Areas , Wi-Fi Available In Rooms
- Dining
- Restaurant , Bar , Breakfast to go
- In room entertainment
- In room facilities
- Tea/Coffee making facilities in each room , Telephone In Each Room
- Hotel services
- Wake Up Call Available
- Family friendly
- Children's Facilities - Outdoor
- Other
- Ground floor bedrooms
- Accessibility
- Disabled Access Public Areas , Disabled Access Bedrooms , Disabled toilets on ground floor , Wheelchair Access , Wheelchair Access To Restaurant , Wheelchair Access To Bar
Useful Info Show/hide
- From 17:00 hours
- Until 10:00 hours
- The price shown is based on the occupancy and dates you have searched for. Prices and availability are subject to change based on the arrival date, number of nights and occupancy searched for. All prices are inclusive of all local taxes.
- Pets are not allowed
Customer Reviews
Our reviews are from genuine LateRooms.com customers. We verify that the customer has stayed before leaving a review.
Very Good
75% would recommend it to a friend
Customer service
Food quality
Room quality
The listing on laterooms promised much but the room shown in the photos was not the room we were given.
Clean but dated, comfortable but the bed had seen significantly better days and creaked like an old hinge everytime I took a deep breath and moving in it would have woken the dead. The proximity of the train station I'm sure is brilliant for travellers into London but I'd been aware from listing just how close it was, or the road, quite noisy on both counts. We slept ok and we're happy with the levels of cleanliness throughout. A premier inn would have been a better bet for space, furnishings and value although Doom Bar on tap was a bonus. Not bad, just not great. Highly unlikely that we'll return.
Read More Less
Quiet Friendly pub
After spending a while looking for a place to sleep for a couple of nights I settled on the Whicfield.
It turned out to be a good choice. Checkin in I was greated in a friendly manor, shown the room and given details of the internet conection and other facilities. Admitedly connecting to the weak Wifi signal was occaisonaly like a sceen out of Mr Bean, but this did not detract from the rest of then stay. The room was clean and tidy and smelt fresh, and as a non smoker that is very much apreciated. The food was good home cooking, good portions. One of the few places I would recommend
Read More Less


text:
Excel – Level Two Workshop Set for Dec. 2
December 2009
Sauk Valley Community College will offer the one-day Excel – Level Two from 12:30 to 5:30 p.m. on Wednesday, December 2, in Room 3K2.
This workshop enables participants to take their knowledge of Excel and maximize its power as they explore linking, sheet management, and more advanced formulas and operations in Excel.
Cost for the class is $65. To register, stop by Sauk's Office of Admissions and Records, Room 1J1, between 8 a.m. and 7 p.m. Mondays through Wednesdays, or between 8 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., Thursdays and Fridays.
For more information, call Sauk's Office of Personal and Professional Development at 815-288-5511, ext. 212.


text:
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Soybean prices rallied this week as U.S. inventories decline ahead of the South American glut. For the week, January beans climbed four cents, but the March contract lost five. The nearby meal contract was up by just 30 cents a ton.
The cotton market enjoyed another small upgrade and for the week gained $1.79.
In livestock, the February live cattle contract gained $1.10. Nearby feeders advanced $2.00. But the February lean hog contract dropped $1.45.
In the financials, Comex gold retreated almost $19 an ounce. The Euro plunged against the dollar, and for the week lost a whopping 608 basis points. And the CRB Index sank more than five points to close at 279.25.
Here now to lend us his insight on these and other market trends is one of our regular market analysts, Virgil Robinson. Welcome back.
Robinson: Mark, before we forget, you mentioned earlier, it's next Wednesday the USDA will freshen supply and demand projections. So there are always the possibility of surprises. And in soy beans, perhaps the USDA will reduce overall production based upon the lengthy and delayed harvest in parts of the southern southeastern United States, as well as the far northern plains. That is certainly possible. To an extent it remains to be seen. Mark, it's kind of interesting that the prospects in the southern hemisphere remain at least as best I can report tonight, online for trend line yields. Perhaps better than that, in select parts of central northern Brazil. There are weather issues in southern Brazil. It's been dry. There is a forecast this weekend of scattered showers, so we'll see if they in fact do materialize. The week was interesting, first week of the year. There's a lot of conversation about various commodity index funds, reallocating positions, and buying additional grain, futures, contracts, to accommodate that reallocation, including soybeans. That I think combined with the weather and the fact that China continues to be a fairly aggressive buyer of beans, kept and underpinned the market pretty solidly. Oil and meal exports remained pretty encouraging, Mark. As you mentioned a few moments ago, we have the onslaught of that harvest in the southern hemisphere staring us in the face, February, march and April of 2005. I think there is going to be a pricing opportunity between now and the availability of that February-march grain out of the southern hemisphere. I'm aiming now, old crop beans measured by the March futures, mark, I think will take another swing at that 560 area, at which point I made no sale, I would certainly make one at that point.
Pearson: Good target to look for. Look at the corn market. First the futures, Virgil, as you can see from our chart, corn came up a little bit this week, as far as the board is concerned. Longer term, what are you seeing? What a pre-- what should a producer be doing?
Robinson: For short-term observation, early in the week we established contract lows, came off those and closed the week higher. What's known as kind of a reversal week to a technician, one who pays attention only to the price formations on weekly charts. That is an encouraging sign and would suggest there is additional short covering ahead of us. I wouldn't argue that. I think there is another weather front bearing down on the middle part of the country next week, middle-late part of next week, which is likely, if it materializes, to impede the grain flow, disrupt the pipe. I think there's another -- a little additional bounce in corn here, in the near future. March futures I think had the ability to trade towards 215, perhaps something fractionally above that. At which point, mark, I would evaluate my local basis. If it's average or above average, I've made my election, previously, I'd sell some cash corn. If I hadn't, again, I would evaluate my basis if it's average or above average. I think a sale is appropriate if you want to repurchase corn, traditionally, some time during the month of February, futures normally are at or near whatever the low proves to be, in the previous month. So that is somewhere around the $2 mark. Repurchase would be appropriate under those circumstances.
Pearson: A good thought there. Let's talk about wheat futures first. What you see now as we head down the road, as far as the wheat market is concerned. Again, a little bit stronger prices this week.
Pearson: You mentioned and went through a little scenario. Wheat seedings. Most private analysts are of the opinion that winter wheat seedings, year over year are going to be lower anywhere from 100,000, upward of a million acres. That has underpinned the market. Quality is an issue. And we happen to possess, I think relatively high-quality wheat. And for select importers, that is in demand, kept the market firmly underpinned. Near-term targets, Chicago March futures, 315 to 20, sell them, or use them to make cash sales. Kansas City, march futures, above 352, I sympathy a good and likely target. Minneapolis, march futures at 355 to 60 area. I think is an appropriate area, to make a cash sale based upon that kind of a futures level.
Pearson: All right. Our national wheat index, from D.T.N., which underpins just what you're saying, that we should be close to an opportunity here. Let's talk about cotton market. Cotton showing strength this week, as well. Again, are we just kind of beginning of the year bounce going on here? Look at the cotton, despite the demand outlook is not that bright. Is there a lesson there for us?
Robinson: We've talked supply in cotton for week after week after week. World stocks project 46.5 million b bails. Expected to grow year over year. We beat the supply issue, I think to death. Demand has improved, mark. China, again, you know, a common buyer of a lot of things, has been active in the market, as have others. I think that the spot futures contract, in New York, the March futures contract's position here, to make a swing at 48.5 to $49 marks. It has been discussed, several weeks ago, we used that price area to make a sale and repurchase with something, whether it was an option strategy or futures contract. I'm going to stick in that camp. I like that prospect. A lot of weather can develop between now and the availability of new crop. If you are of the opinion, and I happen to be, that global G.D.P. is likely to grow here in 2005, anywhere from 4% to 5%, and with that, and to accompany that additional demand for various agricultural commodities, I think a lot of our commodity markets will, underpinned to some extent by that type of development. I like the prospects of world growth here over the course of the next couple of years.
Pearson: All right. Let's talk about livestock, speaking of growth. We are going to need to grow demand for beef if Canada opens up for us, first woog week of March or so. Hopefully we get Japan open, hopefully this will all work out. But there is concern down the road about where this cattle market may be headed.
Pearson: I'm concerned, too. A difficult market to handicap with the variables you just mentioned, prior to the ban, Canadian beef imports accounted for, I believe, for as much as maybe 7% or 8% of U.S. beef production, which is pretty significant number. The issue there, around the new discovery, I think there's going to be a lot of debate here in the next couple of weeks. I'm not sure that March date or time frame will in fact become a reality. So with that in mind, mark, I think again, I'm going to stay with the projection we made here, a few weeks ago. I think cash cattle, the first half of 2005, live cattle prices, I would try and defend the 85 to $86 mark, be it a forward cash contract or some type of hedge. I think that's a fairly attractive price here.
Pearson: A good point. Let's talk about the hog market, which was the glamour of livestock crop of 2004. And usda. It was pretty friendly. Are you buying into that report, or do you think we have expansion going on?
Robinson: Historically when you have two or three consecutive profitable quarters, that normally nurtures expansion in the industry. This year it did not for whatever reasons. Mark, I'm going to take it at face value, and given those numbers, I think we can sustain and support a $50 to $54 live market for an extended period of time. Given the opportunity, futures less a basis, depending on geography, I'm going to defend that $50, $54 area from now through July of 2005.
Pearson: Excellent. Thank you so much. Want to wrap up this edition of "Market to Market."- But if you'd like more information on where these markets are head, advice the the streaming audio on the market plus page at our "market to market" website. Of course be sure to join us again next week when we'll learn how a California man instills rural values in urban youth. Until then, thanks for watching.


text:
iHerb Customer Reviews
Want to try as blood sugar control
1 person found the following review helpful
Posted by Reviewer3323341 on Sep 02, 2012
Saigon cinnamon is supposed to be the best according to clinical testing.
good taste
Posted by 5322656975059102429 on Aug 25, 2013
The packet is a bit big for one person. It might lose its taste over time.
Swift arrangement
Posted by 5110034712436187598 on Oct 10, 2013
Swift arrangement
frontier is a great brand, especially organic
Posted by Reviewer3134012 on Feb 19, 2012
i would order everything frontier makes in organic in these big bags...
Smells great
Posted by Reviewer2164723 on Feb 21, 2012
Haven't yet used it but planning to make a cinnamon cake with it. I love cinnamon!


text:
"To provide engineering assistance to all Agency components and plan and manage a program for investigating and inspection construction accidents involving fatalities and catastrophes which receive nationwide attention. Works with the construction industry on technical issues to enhance safety and health awareness and reduce fatalities, illnesses and injuries."
The Department of Labor does not endorse, takes no responsibility for, and exercises no control over the linked organization or its views, or contents, nor does it vouch for the accuracy or accessibility of the information contained on the destination server. The Department of Labor also cannot authorize the use of copyrighted materials contained in linked Web sites. Users must request such authorization from the sponsor of the linked Web site. Thank you for visiting our site. Please click the button below to continue.


text:
- Home
- Books & More
- Events & Activities
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PreSchool StoryTime: Who's Who?
All Library locations will be closed on Monday, February 15 in observance of Presidents' Day.
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
10:00am @ Southeast Branch
Illustrations and simple rhyming text introduce six pairs of animal twins who moo, hop, swing, swim, flap, and hoot their way through the day.


text:
Just back from a great holiday in south Beach and the Florida Keys. Spent 8 nights in the Betsy in South Beach and it was fantastic from start to finish. Everything was perfect, location, staff - they couldn't do enough for us, food, beach beds and the hotel itself is brilliant.
If I had a tiny tiny issue it was that the bathroom was a little small and the lift a little slow but really that is all I can say and these were so minor!!
The BLT Steak is mouth watering and the service throughout the hotel first Class. I just hope I get a chance to experience the Betsy again in the future
The concierge were also excellent and helped us book tours and gave us advice on travelling to Key West.
Best Hotel I've stayed in so far..........


text:
Did you ever have the impression that the CMA exam is easy (or easier)? If you look at these CMA exam pass rates, you will be surprised.
Latest Statistics
The CMA exam is divided into two parts:
- Financial Planning, Performance and Control
- Financial Decision Making
Here is the latest passing rates (January to October 2014) released by IMA. You can see that while there are some ups and downs in different regions, the macro picture is similar.
Source: IMA data (Jan – Oct 2014). 2015 data not yet released.
We analyze the performance in Part 1 and Part 2 in more detail.
CMA Exam Pass Rate: Part 1
Note: 2012 covers the 9-month period from Sep 2011 to Jun 2012; 2013 covers the 10-month period from Jan 2013 to Oct 2013; 2014 covers the 10-month period from Jan 2014 to Oct 2014.
The worldwide pass rate is a rather scary 31%-35% in this 3 year period, but if you exclude Middle East, the statistics looks much better. It is quite obvious from the above that if your native language is English or you have a chance to learn English in your country (notably Europe, and to a lesser extent, Asia), you have a higher chance to pass.
Asia pass rate is higher possibly because Chinese candidates can take the exam in their local language.
Why English Could be a Major Factor in Pass Rates
The CMA exam tends to have wordy and complex questions which could be a challenge for those with slightly weaker comprehensive skill in the English language. Also, the CMA exam comprises not only multiple choice questions but also an essay section that are graded by human examiners.
One evidence can be found in China where candidates can choose to take the CMA exam in English or in Chinese. The pass rate in China on the English version is 46%, but the pass rate in China on the Chinese version is 59%. The 7 points difference is statistically significant.
In light of this, international candidates should therefore work on practicing English writing as part of the exam preparation.
CMA Exam Pass Rate – Part 2
The data reveals that the pass rate of Part 2 is considerably higher, and even more significant in the non-English speaking regions.
The year-on-year improvement is also encouraging, with the Middle Eastern region reaching all-time high of 37%.
What We Can Learn from These Passing Rate Statistics
Before these low pass rates scare you away, let me try to explain how we can analyze the data.
1. Diversified Pool of Candidates
First, while CMA exam welcomes candidates from all over the world, the exam format is US-centric. Candidates outside of the US may not be familiar with how the multiple choice questions are written and also, if their native language is not English, it is hard to score well in the essay section.
2. Low Barrier of Entry Attracts Casual Takers
Second, IMA (the exam administrator) makes it very easy for anyone with a bachelor degree to apply, unlike, for example, the CPA exam where candidates must take a substantial number of accounting and business courses.
The low barrier of entry attracts candidates who just want to give it a try. These casual takers do not invest sufficient time, money and effort to properly prepare for the exam.
What Does It Tell Us?
- If you have a good command of English; or
- If you work hard and do lots of practice questions to get familiar with the style of the multiple choice questions…
… your chance to pass the CMA exam is much higher than this average statistics.
Here is a Summary in Video Format
I go through the analysis with more pictures and charts in this video:
Now, How do YOU Increase Your Chance of Success?
Don't miss my mega post on the ultimate CMA exam prep guide, with 50 actionable tips to help you nail the exam!
For more information and updates on the CMA exam, please consider signing up to my e-course which is completely free. You can learn about the mini-course here or sign up directly below.
Join us if you want to get tips on how to plan,
study and pass your CMA exam… on your first attempt!


text:
Best Rural Bike Ride (2007)
Long Pine Key
After entering Everglades National Park through the Homestead entrance, Long Pine Key is pretty much the first stop in. It offers a maze of bike paths, ranging from 20-minute joy rides to half-day adventures. Between the Royal Palm Vistor Center and Pine Glades Lake is a mesh of trails that take you through sawgrass prairie, old farmland, and pineland. One of the longest rides is down Old Ingraham Highway, an abandoned, overgrown road that goes some ten miles out into the Glades and feels like a journey into Jurassic Park. Although it's possible to take a road bike out on these trails, a mountain bike is strongly recommended as is a spare tube. Entrance to Everglades National Park is $10 per car (good for seven days), or $5 if you come by bike. An annual pass costs $25.
More Awards from This Winner
Location Details
40001 State Road 9336
Homestead FL 33034
Homestead FL 33034
More People & Places Awards
Best Reason to Stay in Miami for the SummerSacred Sevens Selebration
Best Local Boy Made GoodSan Francisco 49ers running back Frank Gore
Best Local Boy Gone BadRalph Arza
Best Sanctuary from the Fast TrackWat Buddharangsi Temple


text:
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Submited: 6 years old
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Section 2257
Platinum blonde teen shows off her secret tattoos


text:
"The quality of these socks were a lot better than I expected. Nice and thick from top to bottom. It will take a while to wear these out. " (E3180)
"We've used these pants in the past. They fit very well. And wash very well. No complaints." (E6052)
"This was one of the best deals I have ever gotten. You have earned a customer for life." (E3244)
Epic Sports
Champro Mens Youth Double Stock Reversible Tee [E106376]


text:
I started the day off documenting some of the abandoned houses and neighborhood decay on the way into the city. I noticed a large "Stand Up, Fight Blight" sign next to an abandoned apartment complex; a neighborhood initiative aimed to transform the area into a place where residents can be happy and feel confident about a positive future for the city. I snapped a few photos and then took off over Market Street bridge and the scene of downtown Youngstown came into view.
Instead of aimlessly driving around, I decided to start walking the city and came across a little shop called Youngstown Nation where I figured I could get some advice on how to plan my day. I met Phil Kidd, a passionate Youngstown loyalist and creator of the popular Defend Youngstown movement in the city. I knew right away I had met the right person and Kidd rattled off numerous activities and points of interest. Inside the store, I also met Jim Cossler, the CEO of the Youngstown Business Incubator, who changed the landscape of a largely deserted downtown business district into a start up powerhouse. Cossler informed me that the Incubator was just named the WORLD'S best business incubator associated with a university, competing with the likes of Stanford, Cornell and UC Berkeley, among others. Cossler said I had to check out the gorgeous Deyor Center for Performing Arts and take photos of the beautiful Powers auditorium. I spoke with a lovely woman at the box office who gladly gave me a private tour and told me the interesting history of the auditorium. She said the Powers Auditorium was known as Warner Theater (of Warner Brothers fame who grew up and started careers in Youngstown) and it actually showed movies from 1931-1968 before it closed. It was almost demolished until stockbroker Edward Powers stepped in with a large donation. Powers turned ownership over to the famed Youngstown Symphony Society and the building still remains as a site out of 1931.
At the end of my tour, I was introduced to James Pernotto; an impressive contemporary fine artist; painter, and sculptor who is also a curator at the Butler Institute of American Art. He went out of his way to show me around the city and offered to take me to his studio roof so I could get some skyline shots of downtown. On the walk over, we ran into none other than his longtime friend and native Youngstown son; the famed Ray "Boom Boom" Mancini, who held the boxing lightweight championship of the world from 1982-1984. Mancini was also a part of the infamous 82′ bout with South Korean, Duk Koo Kim, which changed the sport of boxing forever. The match went 14 rounds in a hotly contested match up and sadly left Kim in the hospital where he tragically passed from his brain injuries four days later. I admittedly didn't know who Mancini was when I met him but could tell Mancini was doing very well for himself in LA and was back in Youngstown for the holidays. The pair of friends chitchatted and it became clear that everyone in this town is well connected, friendly and looking out for each other's best interests. Of course, I had to take a photo of the two famous Youngstownians.
I then toured Pernotto's impressive art studio and got to shoot from his roof. Before saying my goodbyes, I realized how lucky I was to meet so many influential Youngstownians.
I decided I needed to check out some of Kidd's restaurant suggestions where I could grab a quick bite and a beer. He pointed out an old fashioned family restaurant called the Golden Dawn that has been around since 1934. I got a delicious Jumbo sandwich, fries and a Genesee schooner (it was .85 cents a beer!!!) The restaurant looks like it hasn't changed much from the good ole days and I instantly loved the place. The waitresses were decked out in the garb of yesteryear, the flashy illuminated signs and between the home style food and cheap beer, I immediately felt at home.
Since I was already in the Wick Park neighborhood, which I can only describe as a mix of forgotten and destroyed abandoned homes next to gorgeous old pieces of architecture, I had to explore and discovered the Parkway Towers. This pre-Depression era building was utilized as luxury apartments for professors, doctors, and professionals from Youngstown State University. It is confusing to see such a beautiful building that is so close nearby to the famous Stambaugh Auditorium and gorgeous homes, lay empty and desolate. I know the owner has been contacted in reference to some possible violations and hopefully the building can be restored.
I figured I had to take in one more Youngstown staple before I headed home and stopped at the eclectic Star Supply Bargain outlet and perused their collection of fun and interesting junk. Housing such novelties as gas masks, toy figurines made out of Youngstown steel and also household necessities, it makes for a must see stop. After passing the "You Can Change Youngstown" sign on the way out of the city, I realized that many of the residents took this saying to heart. Being a native Clevelander, I see many similarities and am hopeful that Youngstown will continue its strong comeback.
For any inquiries on these photos, drop me a line on the Contact Me section. Thanks-Matt]]>
I then finally ventured to the Cleveland Masonic Temple after about 12 hours of research before finding its address. It left me a bit uneasy to bring thousands of dollars of equipment to the roughest part of Cleveland and less than a mile away from the Sowell murder site. I was sure to bring my fellow police friend who grew up in the area and to carry my off duty weapon in my camera bag as a precaution. The decrepit brick layered building was covered in ivy, with boarded up doors and surrounding broken glass on the ground. After weaving through overgrown shrubs and tangled branches, we made our way to the broken staircase to look for a door. The entrance of the Temple was surprisingly pried wide open, leaving me to wonder if any animals or trespassers were inside. What we witnessed when we arrived was a mossy floor underneath a leaking ceiling, peeling walls containing the shattered windows, and two remarkably standing pianos. Another well-built and immaculate piano (Smith & Nixon, Cincinnati) was abandoned on the second floor with a vase of red flowers on top. There were women's high heels, undergarments and a makeshift bed leading me to believe this was made into a local prostitution hideaway in years past. A broken dresser and mirror finished off the impressively gloomy area. We vacated the premises without injury or arrest and left with an admiration for the Temple.
The snow started falling hard as I was driving through the countryside. I found a pretty, red covered bridge, but the sky was a disaster for shooting. I continued to Brown County State Park in Southern Indy and finally found it after my GPS took me to an inaccessible entrance. There were dilapidated houses hidden away from the snow ridden roads. The snow was fluffy and light, and was the prettiest snowfall I have ever seen. The first photo is of the winding road traveling through the desolate park.
I then spent the next day touring Indianapolis and found myself at historic Crown Hill cemetery. I felt a powerful feeling when I drove through and witnessed a beautiful memorial to the fallen soldiers in the Civil War.
I was thoroughly impressed with Wright Patterson's plane displays and how well done the individual exhibits of airplane eras were portrayed. It was well worth the trip and is highly recommended to visit.]]>


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Definition of Cardiac myxoma
Cardiac myxoma: A benign tumor of the heart and the most common type of heart tumor in adults. Cardiac myxomas can appear in an isolated case or in families, sometimes as part of an hereditary syndrome called the Carney complex. Some families have the Carney complex variant as well as the trismus-pseudocamptodactyly syndrome (Hecht syndrome). A mutation in the perinatal myosin heavy chain causes this Carney complex variant, suggesting that mutated contractile proteins play a role in the development of cardiac myxomas.Source: MedTerms™ Medical Dictionary
Last Editorial Review: 6/14/2012
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January is National Radon Action Month. In the U.S., one in fifteen homes is affected by elevated radon levels.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has launched the Energy Star Home Advisor, an online tool designed to help Americans save money and energy by improving the energy efficiency of their homes through recommended, customized and prioritized home-improvement projects.
Colorful neighborhood lighting displays and glowing trees are signs of the season. But all those twinkling lights can drive up energy demand and result in big home energy bills.
RecycleMania is a friendly competition and benchmarking tool for college and university recycling programs to promote waste reduction activities to their campus communities.
Carbon Monoxide (CO) is called the "Invisible Killer" because it's a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. More than 150 people in the Unites States die every year from accidental non-fire related CO poisoning associated with consumer products, including generators.


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I love finding new ways to make chips! Thanks!!
sea salt
Recipe Directions
Slice fresh, organic slicing cucumbers with mandolin (not too thin though). Spread out on dehydrator trays, sprinkle with sea salt. (Any other prefered flavoring is great too.) Dehydrate till crispy. Serve with salsa, or nut butter, or anything else you usually eat with a chip. Also makes a good cracker substitute, to be eaten with nut cheese or dip.
3dom's ThoughtsBy 3dom
I didn't see this here when I searched... It is so simple that it needs no recipe, but still nice for a new idea that someone may not have tried.
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Top voted
Sounds interesting. Do you peel the cucumbers first? I have dehydrated zucchini and really enjoyed it.
I do this with zucchini. I'll definitely try this.
camiheartsraw's Review
Cucumber Chips
These were really good! I enjoyed them with some spring onion dip and guacamole. Good stuff!
I do this with zucchini. I'll definitely try this.
Sounds interesting. Do you peel the cucumbers first? I have dehydrated zucchini and really enjoyed it.
KhaasLadki's Review
Cucumber Chips
I love finding new ways to make chips! Thanks!!
ladyfiremedic5's Review
Cucumber Chips
Theses are some of my favorites!! I make mine paper thin and LOVE them!! Thanks for posting.
Hadn't tried it actually, and I do have some cucumbers! Will have to give it a try.
Therefore do not worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will worry about itself. Each day has enough trouble of its own.
Matthew 6:28-34
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