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Cellardoor Magazine - Winter Wonderland Issue
We embrace the beauty of this season in our Winter Wonderland issue. With contributions from great writers, photographers and illustrators amongst others, we are proud to show you all our very first issue. We take a look at the face behind Be Frassy, list our all time favourite 80's films and chat with Joey Nightmare. Take a look, see what you think and leave us feedback on your opinions. Thanks! Follow us on Twitter - http://twitter.com/cellardoormag and Become a Fan - http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/cellardoor-magazine/138946006106
Cellardoor Winter 2009 M The Winter Wonderland Issue M Inside the world of Frassy o o Photography by Emma Kimber welcome to the Winter Wonderland issue cellardoor Photography by Merily at sequinmagazine.blogspot.com Welcome to the debut issue of cellardoor! The past few months have involved a lot of hard work and elbow grease, but we're finally able to show all of you our beauftiful (or so we think!) creation. We're constantly the response we've had from our suppor ters and want to thank each and every on of our contributors for taking a chance on us. We'll be cosying up to our favourite 1980's movies and browsing the best blogs while keeping the cold winter at bay with some of the cutest hot water bottles. And if you still haven't decided what to put on you Christmas list, then check out the goodies Urban Outfitters are offering. We wish you a wonderful Winter full of food and festivities. Please let us know your thoughts on our first issue, we hope you like it and above all - enjoy! Jade, Amy and Suzanne xo CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED by CreaTED 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Street Style T Greatest Store in the World he All Wrapped Up A Delightful Muddle Nobody Puts Baby Says in the Corner From Oxfam With Love T British Invasion he I Blog T herefore I Am Sassy Little Frassy Vintage Gypsy 68 76 82 88 92 98 102 103 104 106 108 112 118 120 122 124 Somewhere Between Dreams and Reality Ice Ice Baby Cotton Candy P is for Polaroid Can You Say Konichiwa? Culture Club T Are T Billion Bicycles In Beijing... here en View From T Arena he A Sweet Dream or a Joey Nightmare? Fangtastic We Love T 80's he MySpace Welcome T T Club o he Ramblings of a Jane Austen Addict When You Made Her Cry T Love Again o Contents Photography by Suzanne Jones ce ll a rdo or 08 Photography by Johanna Carlsson Walking in a Winter Wonderland... 09 e llard o o r c Credits 00 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 16 Don't forget to let us know what you think so far.... Let us know your thoughts, ideas and questions email@example.com We love you xo Santa's Little Helper I learned the awful truth about Santa in the back of a Mitsubishi Space Wagon. I was 10 years old and, until that fateful moment, had been completely convinced that Saint Nicolas - aka Father Christmas, Sinterclaaus or Kris Kringle had flown through the air, delivering beautifully crafted gifts to nice children and lumps of coal to naughty ones. Needless to say, I was a nice child and, as a result, Santa had always rewarded me handsomely. I adored him in return. I wrote him letters and poems, sketched pictures of Donner and Blitzen. I left carrots and oatcakes for his reindeer and a snifter of vintage port � which my Dad was kind enough to select - for the Old Gentleman himself. Let's get this straight: I didn't just believe in Santa, I knew he existed and I loved him unconditionally. That was why I was willing to fight tooth and nail against the `non-believers'. Year in and out, I watched in dismay as another friend would cross over to the dark side. Each Christmas, the apostasy got worse; by the time I turned 10, I was surrounded by infidels. Of course, this only meant that Santa needed me more than ever to rally support on his behalf. And I did so with a vengeance. I argued relentlessly against all logic and logistics. I had an answer for every question. How did Santa manage to deliver presents to every house in the world in just one night? It was obvious - he calculated his sleigh ride to correspond with shifting time zones. How can one man make so many toys? Do you know how hard the average elf can work? Was there a Mrs Claus? Yes. Tragically, she had been killed some years ago in a sledding incident. But Santa didn't like to talk about that. Now, he lived alone � apart from his elves and deer making people's disbelief all the more hurtful. I was actually so convinced and convincing in my arguments, that some of my friends began to rebelieve in Santa. `But why would Mummy and Daddy lie?' they would ask me. `Because they hate you,' I replied coolly. `And Santa. And they want to ruin what you have together.' Gulping back tears, they re-affirmed their loyalties to Mr. Claus. I was thrilled - Santa would be so proud of me, and, no doubt, his pride would be reflected in the fabulous presents I would receive that year. But events were to take a sharp and unexpected twist. The mixed messages that my friends were receiving had led to trauma in their families. There was pandemonium in the playground as children were faced with two alternative truths - each of which held equally devastating implications: either there was no Father Christmas, or their parents were intent on destroying their happiness. It wasn't long before my mother and father were called to the Head Master's office. I sat between them - my arms folded and jaw clenched. `We've had complaints,' Miss O'Neill began, `Kirsty has been re-convincing pupils that Santa Claus exists.' She looked at my mother. `I think you can imagine the upset this is causing.' I turned to see a smile flit across my father's face. It was replaced an instant later by a look of grave concern. My mother assured Miss O'Neill that we would discuss the matter further, and hurried me out of the door. On the journey home, I talked incessantly about the impact all this would have on Santa. He was heading into his busiest time of year, and needed all the support he could get. I would send him a comforting note up the fireplace that evening. `At least, we all believe in him,' I concluded struggling to fasten my seatbelt. I saw my mother shoot a piercing glance at my father. `This is your fault,' she murmured. He cleared his throat. I felt a sudden stab of anxiety. `We do believe, don't we?' I could hear my voice tremble. `Well,' my mother began. She didn't need to say any more. That was the moment that my childhood ended. Of course, I got over it. I realized that the Old Gentleman - for whom my father had selected the very best Vintage Port - was none other than my Dad himself. At first, the wonder of Christmas seemed to slip away. It took time for the wounds to heal, but in the past few years I have started to re-discover its magic. For me, it now lies in the shiny foil of presents, the brightly coloured fairy lights and the tacky tinsel, which may explain why I greeted a fellow passenger on the N19 with such hostility last week. It was a dark, dank night. As the bus trundled along Piccadilly, the windows of Fortnum and Mason twinkled through the dreary haze - a magnificent carousel of multi-coloured sea shells lit up the far side of the street. `Decorations up already!' The man sitting behind me gestured toward the lavish display. `Bloody Christmas!' I suppose he had a point: we still had to get through Halloween, All Saints' Day, Bonfire Night, Remembrance Sunday and pay tribute to St Andrew before Yuletide was upon us. I acknowledged all of his reservations - but still found it impossible to share his sentiments. My childhood Christmas may have been lost, I thought as I made my way home to Hackney, at least don't deny me the smoke and mirrors of what remains. c By Kirsty Knox 17 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 18 In just over four years Californian brand, Rodarte, has gone from being a littleknown, home-fabricated clothing range to a designer favourite of Hollywood actresses such as Emma Watson, Kirsten Dunst and Kate Bosworth. Winners of the Best Young Designer award at the last fashion awards, CFDA, sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy have made a heavy impression on not only the Hollywood hierarchy, but the respected fashion world. To celebrate their 10th collection for the Autumn/Winter 09 season during Paris Fashion Week, Rodarte are exposing their latest collection, plus the inspirations behind it. What makes up this extraordinary exhibition is its originality, as objects on display range from gothic dolls, 1950's horror films and designs from their famous artist and musician friends. Amongst these contributors, photographer Autumn de Wilde's young girl playing, Kim Gordon, from Sonic Youth showed her paintings on white canvases; with bold, black dripping lettering provided some of their latest works. Porcelain guns, bubblegum dispensers and childish scribblings all contribute into this treasure chest of childhood memories. A collection of vinyls from artists such as Nirvana, demonstrate nostalgic qualities embedded in musical culture. These various works are exposed in the corner of Colette, decorated with enormous marbled photocopies, stuck to the wall as posters on the underground of the backstage at one of their fashion shows, with the addition of plastic teddy bear eyes, enhancing the eerie mood of the gallery. Upon viewing the actual collection, the inspirations are immediately apparent in the individual pieces. A leather top with large holes cut out around the front, like a rib cage, gives a nod to the more gothic elements of the gallery. The book Charlottes Web is a sure reference for their woollen jumpers, knitted to resemble spider webs. The general look for the Autumn/Winter season is very layered, with thick-knitted jumpers and scarves, the famous cuissards (thigh high boots), with straps that could only be described as bondage-like, in greys and blacks, re-emphasising the `dark side' of their inspirations. Counterbalancing all of this, are the neat 50's capped sleeved dresses in gold and black, sparkly mini skirts and the marbled pumps, from a collaboration with the French shoe-maker, Repetto. This more feminine side is apparent in the gallery, especially the pink neon "Love" sign and a series of photos of girls and fairies, shot at the turn of the 20th century, sprinkled with glitter. This collaboration allows the spectator to delve into the world of the sisters, understanding their creative process, utilising art and music to demonstrate and inspire their Autumn/Winter collection. These girls do not lack an innovative imagination! c a r t fa shi on of By Hayley Edmonds www.hayley-edmonds.com girlmeetsdress.com By Jade Cooper-Collins Are you the girl with the Champagne taste but a lemonade budget? Then this is the site for you. Girl meets dress is an online shop that lets you borrow designer dresses at the fraction of their retail cost. Marc Jacobs dresses for only �89 who can resist? It's so simple - just log on and browse through over 90 top designer brands, choose your favourite frock and wait for the postman. What's more, once you've succeeded in making all your friends green with envy, just send it back to them and they'll take care of the dry cleaning. Perfect! Prices start from just �25 for a 2 day hire and the hottest new products are added everyday. With the party season fast approaching, now's the time to bag THAT dress, so if you don't want to be seen in the same dress twice, here's your solution. Just try not to blow all your money, or you'll have some serious explaining to do on Christmas morning, regardless of how amazing you look! c Temporary Secretary By Amy Power If you love to look kitsch, then we know just the place for you. Temporary:Secretary is an online fashion and accessories boutique with some of the cutest jewellery designs we have ever seen. Whether you are looking for a Christmas present or just a treat for yourself, you are bound to find something here to take your fancy. We particularly like the I Love Mittens Brooch, �6, and Alice's Teacup Necklace, �16 and Love Letter Necklace, �14. And what's more, they are kindly offering our readers 10% off, using the discount code CELLARDOOR 10% OFF. So head to www.temporary-secretary.com to feast your eyes on all the goodies they have to offer. c 19 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 20 Disaster Designs �12.00 www.sunrisedirect.co.uk T �12.00 opshop www.topshop.com T Gifted Penguin �11.9 9 he www.giftedpenguin.co.uk bottl give us the By Harriet Bennett can go a long way and make hot water bottles even more energy efficient. Instead of boiling the kettle why not try using the left over water used to boil veg or pasta to fill up your bottle, and when it's lost its heat try using the water to feed your wilting plants? What's not to love? These small, insubstantial water containers manage to give us a nostalgic warmth through the frosty months, on top of that smug `I'm being ecofriendly' feeling. Everyone loves to feel a bit smug now and again. If there aren't already enough reasons for you to want a hot water bottle this winter, then the fact that they've suddenly got all cute and pretty is the deal breaker. Not content with the traditional and boring, both the high street and Internet are packed with seasonal, cute and charming designs to warm our mitts on. Everything from Russian dolls, fluffy animals, Disney characters, kitsch designs and chunky knits can be found cosying up around bottles, ready to keep you warm this winter. If you're feeling particularly creative then there are hundreds of knitting patterns freely available, giving you the freedom to design your own beautifully unique hot water bottle cover. So why not get reacquainted with this timeless seasonal classic and keep the winter chills at bay? c As the days become shorter and the temperature starts to chill, out come the oversized hoodies, blankets, thermal socks and hot water bottles - anything to provide that extra warmth and avoid switching on the purse and planet-draining demon that is central heating. Hot water bottles have been a winter essential for many a century (since the 16th century to be precise). Their shape and design may have changed throughout the years, but their ability to warm us in even the bitterest of winters has never faltered. To many their warm, cosy feel brings back memories of childhood and simpler times, when something as basic as a hot water bottle was enough to melt away our troubles and warm the coldest of hearts. For the vast majority of us climate change is an issue kept close to our hearts. So for those of us making an effort to reduce our carbon footprint, hot water bottles are a great, inexpensive and energy efficient alternative to over-using the central heating. To absorb the amount of CO2 that is annually emitted from UK homes, a forest three and a half times the size of greater London would need to be planted. That is a lot of trees. A considerable amount of this energy wastage is down to heating our homes. However, a few simple tricks We Love... T cellardoor team compiled a list of all the things that make Winter the best season of all. he hot Chocolate with whipped cream and marsmallows mM frosty mornings M mittens M cosy knitwear M open fires M christmas lights M rosy cheeks M building snowmen M the smell of cold winter airM mince pies M the coca-cola advertM wearing ugly but cosy clothes M new bootsM candles M snowflakes Mstaying indoors with a good book Mmm ice skating M wrapping presents M mulled wine M great television Winter ce ll a rdo or 22 Street Style Those spotty tights seem to be everywhere at the moment, but gosh aren't they yummy? Fillipa is rocking hers with an embellished sweatshirt, the perfect combination of glam and grunge, topped off with a pair of lace up ankle boots. We love the way she's tucked her top into her shorts, it's just enough to see the lovely zip detail. We say break the fashion rules, who says you can't wear black with brown? And how cute does Pia look in her chocolate brown vintage fur. She's kept it simple with black leggings and those amazing studded boots. Perfect. By Jade Cooper-Collins Photography by Jill Adams streetstylelondon.blogspot.com Street Style You can never go wrong with plaid and this is no exception. No longer just for lumberjacks and boys in bands, the humble checked shirt is fast becoming a staple in every girl's wardrobe. The long necklace adds a feminine touch. A leather jacket is always a good investment, and the fur collar is a really cool twist on the classic. We love the pallette of greys and black, she looks like the ultimate rock WAG. Even down to the ankle booties, with a subtle nod to to stud trend that won't seem to tire.... not that we're complaining. 23 e llard o o r c the greatest store in the world By Suzanne Jones Cellardoor were recently invited along to Urban Outfiters's flagship Oxford Street store to have a chat with their press manager, Stefanie Marshall. While we were there we decided to explore the store from top to bottom, and repor t back with our findings. Urban Outfitters is a widely known store featuring ce ll a rdo or 26 a wide array of clothing and accesories for both men and women, all kinds of beautiful home decorations and knick knacks, and a brand new collection of polaroid cameras and film. And as if all this wasn't enough to lure you into one of their stores, upon entering you'll find that the stores themselves are something of a wonder. While we were looking around the Oxford Street store we found ourselves noticing little details that we loved. Trinkets were showcased in decorative boxes, jewellery hung from decorative hooks on the walls and beautiful garments of clothing were showcased hanging in ornate wardrobes, we'd be quite happy living there! c 27 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 28 ce ll a rdo or 30 cellardoor o's urban outfitters. 31 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 32 all wrapped up By Suzanne Jones Since we recently spent an entire morning exploring the Oxford Street Urban Outfitters store, we thought we'd check out their treasures aside from the wondorous clothes, and see what we could discover. So here it is, a nice simple spread of wonderful gift ideas we bet anyone would be happy to receive. And let's face it, who doesn't like getting presents? Holga Cat Camera �45.00 Everyone will smile when they see this camera! Lego MP3 Player �55.00 It's like an ipod, just with retro value. Elm Tree Jewellery Stand �16.00 Stylish and practical. We love it. 3oz Wrapped Flask �10.00 It's too pretty not to use. Minted Rose Bud Lip Balm �7.00 Our firm favourite, now with a twist. Cup Cake Magic Book �7.99 Because really, who deoesn't want to know how to make edible art! I Heart Tea Mug �8.50 Because, well, we do! All images via www.UrbanOutfitters.co.uk 33 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 34 A delightful muddle By Kayleigh Macdonald Vintage lovers keep your eyes peeled for Delightful Muddle. They promise to give each buyer the fashion history experience, and does not disappoint. The Delightful Muddle lives up to its name, offering superb collections of charming and quirky pieces that conjure up a strong sense of the past. And when you know a bit more about the Delightful Muddle's own history, it's easy to understand why. The Delightful Muddle Vintage is now owned and operated by best friends and fashionistas Catherine Beck and Becca Gray. However, its roots go all the way back to the 1940s, when the Delightful Muddle Vintage was a small boutique in London owned by Catherine's great-grandmother, Betty Lambert. An actress and style-setter of her day, Betty would trawl the boutiques of London searching for quality pieces to compliment her vast collection - how lovely it would be for Betty to see her great-granddaughter following in her footsteps. It seems that wowing customers with beautifully designed items and customised accessories runs in the family. Catherine and Becca have modernised the business, making it an online-boutique, and continue to search for vintage gems � with plans to expand onto the iconic Portobello Road in the near future. These two entrepreneurs continue to bring affordable and wearable clothing to fashion-loving girls everywhere. Since its re-launch in May 2009, the Delightful Muddle Vintage's popularity amongst vintage-hunters has soared, creating a devoted following in the fashion world. It's hard to believe that Catherine and Becca exploded onto the vintage scene less than a year ago. The two mothers have bagged LuLu's vintage fashion website award, as well as a host of press features, recognition for the creative energy they have poured into the Delightful Muddle Vintage. We hope to see more of their gorgeous style. Visit delightfulmuddle.com and see for yourself. c Credits 00 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 36 bo no Baby Says Boutique are set to be one of the top places to shop online, offering their customers special hand picked garments from many eras. Their one-off items are at very affordable prices, from this seasons floral pattern, to next seasons lace and frills, so you won't be able to resist purchasing! By Olivia Slack We got in touch with Amy, the brains behind the store and asked her what her future plans are for BSB. Here's what she had to say... So tell us a little bit about yourself and how Baby Says Boutique got stared. What's it all about? Baby Says Boutique got started through a passion of individual vintage clothing, I was fed up of trawling through ebay, only to be out bid at a ridiculous price or trawling through the vintage boutiques which were hard to come by, I decided others must feel the same, right? I guess they do! Fashion is my baby, I live and breath it. I'm constantly working on improving the store, hence the vintage inspired designs coming in, which people have responded to very well. It's all very much about trial and error. I offer affordable, wearable and inspired vintage fashion for the everyday fashionista. It's very important to me, that my pricesare affordable.I am just like each of my customers so I sell at prices I would purchase at! babys d y puts ays love to see make a reappearance on the fashion scene? All current fashion is a re take on old fashion, it just repeats itself. However I am liking the studded phase all the stores are going through right now. Where did you find your inspiration for Baby Says In your own opinion, what Boutique from? My inspiration comes is the most underrated from everywhere! Fashion Blogs are currently item in womenswear? For me, ones that get my head whirring with ideas of what I need to stock. Also, my customers give great feedback, I love love talking to them and hearing what they want to buy. the most underated item in womenswear is good underwear, you like to look good on the outside but having a nice matching pair of underwear on underneath, just boosts your confidence! What is your favourite item of clothing in the Baby Says Boutique store right now? We are updating within the next few weeks and there are some gorgeous lace bodysuits and bodycon floral dresses which are my favourite new items. And finally, What are your plans for the future? Just to keep growing. I have been running BSB for less than a year and I am still at the experimenting stage of finding what works. For the future though you can expect lots more vintage and vintage inspired stock. Hopefully getting bags and shoes in as soon as possible so keep your eyes peeled! c What do you feel that you have to offer as a pose to What is one item from other online stores? I feel that another decade that you'd E: SAYS BOUTIQU CONTACT BABY WEBSTORE: www.babysaysboutique.com MYSPACE: www.myspace.com/babysaysboutique BLOG: babysaysboutiqueblog.blogspot.com TALK TO AMY: email@example.com in the orner 37 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 38 Photos By Sophie Davidson using items from Babysays Boutique Credits 39 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 00 41 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 42 Credits 00 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 46 Fro On the first of June 1941, with World War II well under way, clothes rationing was enforced in every household in the country. The lack of imported goods meant that materials were scarce. Each person was allowed 66 clothing credits per year, which more or less added up to one complete outfit. Instead, people were encouraged to re-use the resources they already had, by mending damaged clothes, using materials from around the house such as curtains and tablecloths, and even un-ravelling jumpers and knitting with the wool. It was a new state of mind � Make Do and Mend. How many of you have clothes in your wardrobes that you have only worn a few times and will probably never wear again? Exactly. It's so easy to pop in to Primark and buy a whole outfit for less than �20 that we take for granted how easy it is to make things last. By customising what you already have, not only are you being environmentally friendly and ethical (allowing you to be a tad smug), but you are saving pennies. Oxfam Chelsea are trying to spread the Make Do and Mend message. Considering the current state of the economy (yawn!), it is the perfect time to embrace it again. The volunteers decided that it would be great idea to have a fashion show promoting the Make Do and Mend way of thinking, and to raise money for Haiti � one of the world's most povertystricken countries, particularly effected by climate change. Cellardoor headed over to the event in Marylebone, where we found second hand stalls with a whole host of treats in the form of clothes, shoes and jewellery, as well as a customising corner, where you could take unwanted items and give them a whole new lease of life. The fashion show began with a short film documenting the ideas and hard work put in by the various volunteers organising the event before the models (not just ultra-skinny ones, we might add) strut their stuff down the catwalks, showing off the clothes and accessories that had been donated. With Chelsea being one of the most affluent areas in London, it should come as no surprise to see Chanel and Sonia Rykiel being worn. In fact, fashion co-ordinator Sarah Atkinson let it slip that Oxfam Chelsea often get unworn designer clothes, shoes and perfumes donated. Good to know! Volunteers also chipped in by designing clothes specifically for Oxfam - the Made With Love range. The girls paraded the goods, looking fab and wearing anything from tailored shorts to wedding dresses. A selection of the items from the show were then auctioned off (including a Chanel jacket that went for a miniscule �25!) and the evening was played out with live music from some great bands. The event was a success, and the organisers were pleased with everyone's efforts in raising awareness, and money, for a great cause. We know that we'll definitely be taking a closer look at what's on the rails in charity shops now. For more information on the work Oxfam are doing with Haiti, head to www.oxfam.org.uk c m o ve am with l Oxf Interested in advertising with us? Get in contact at email@example.com to let us know 47 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 48 The British I nv n io as By Olivia Weeks Britain has always been a very patriotic isle and we're famous for our fearless style. Any tourist who visits the UK will see the same - a great sense of style, unique and independent. Our bravery in expressing ourselves is portrayed in our exceptional eye for innovation. But can the same be said for our Fashion Weeks? Supported by The British Fashion Council, this September's Spring/ Summer 2010 London Fashion Week marked the 25th anniversary. Moving venues from the breath-taking National History Museum to the equally beautiful Somerset House, helped to celebrate the anniversary highlighting one of Britain's many assets- architecture. Over the past few years, London Fashion Week has been cast aside by many of the most powerful people in media due to Britain's ostensible lack of support in its own designers, as well as British designers lack of faith in London as somewhere for them to showcase their work, going back as far as ten years. Even John Galliano, one of Britain's leading designers, moved to Paris in 1989 in order to seek backing financially. With Paris' suave and elegant approach to fashion week, epitomized during haute couture week held earlier in the year, it is hard to blame British designers from making the move. In the past few years more and more British designers have been slowly swimming away from our little island, taking unique British style to Milan and Paris, including Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. Thankfully Vivienne Westwood stands strong, her sophisticated yet raucous nod to the Seventies epitomizes true British edge, with each show more patriotic than the last; from her Queen as a Teenager show to the more recent Anglomania. London Fashion Week needs to be celebrated; it has been the home of many births; after sashaying down the catwalk for Versace, Vivienne Westwood and Jasper Conran and campaigning from Yves Saint Laurent, British model Naomi Campbell became the first black model to grace the front of French Vogue. The past few years have seen an emergence of new talented designers including Gareth Pugh and his play on sensory deprivation in 2005 to Christopher Kane's acidic highs in 2006. Most recently, embellished metallics, lime green dresses and pastel leathers marked the return of Matthew Williamson to London from showing in New York. Each year designers choose to reflect the social and economic climate in their shows. Brits' teaming of fashion with statements political, social and economic - makes us a unique addition to the fashion weeks that run across New York, Milan and Paris. London loves to shock and be shocked. While everyone else stared open-mouthed, Britain lapped up Body map's 1985 collection of acidic one pieces entitled `Barbie takes a trip...'. Designers such as Hussein Chalayan pushed the boundaries between fashion and art and Alexander McQueen used film as a relative medium, printing stills from film `Taxi Driver' onto a dress, gagging his models and creating shows has names such a `Highland Rape'. Britain with always been asvery patriotic isle and famous for our fearless style. Any tourist Believe it or not, not a girls sense of style; unique women fashion UK will see the same-all greatlove fashion - for Britishand independent. Our bravery is about is much more our just a trend or a label, which is why ourselvesso portrayed in thanexceptional eye for innovation. However can the it's ever so gratifying that for our Fashion Weeks? London Fashion Week is reflective of this and about by The British It's filled with as much anti-fashion action Supported so much more.Fashion Council, this September's S/S 10 London and drama as the anniversary. Moving venues event for all women celebrated its 25thelite could want, making it anfrom the breath-taking to be interested in equally beautiful Hamnett's 2003 return to one tory Museum to the - from Katherine Somerset House, highlightedthe of catwalk with her slogan assets- our architecture. T-shirts emblazoned with the words `STOP WAR, BLAIR OUT' years London Fashion Week has been use aside Over the past fewto the outrage caused with Mark Fast's cast of size 14 models this year resulting in his stylist leaving. most powerful people in media due to Britain's ostensible lack There designers, as well aspects designers lack of faith Britishare many importantas Britishunique to London Fashion Week. Model Erin O'Connor's creation Galliano; whose for them to showcase their work. Johnof a model shelter between shows for the moved to Paris has helped was snapped up in one gopast few years in 1989 models handle media With Paris' suave and elegant seek backing financially.attacks such as the size zero debate, Vivienne Westwood's use of 13-year-olds down fashion week epitomized during haute couture week the it is hard to the outrage caused during move. year runway and blame designers to making thefashion's heroin chic phase. London was the first fashion week to ban However more and more British designers have been slowing models with a little island, taking to unique shows. In suave away from ourBMI of less than 18our walk thestyle to the2002 as a mark of respect, McQueen with New McCartney. their fashion including AlexanderLFW liaisedand Stella York so thatThankfully week stands fall on flaming .............with each show more Britwood did not strong,September 11th. Each year, London Teenager show in 1988 or a new Anglomafrom her Queen as a Fashion Week showcases 1998 to generation of lasting models from Kate Moss modeling it Stella McCartney's London Fashion Week needs to be celebrated;in has been the graduate show to Jourdan Dunn as a more recent discovery. births; after walking the catwalk for Jasper Conran's 1988 showEven Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe to grace the front of French Vogue. The became the first black modelfor Vivienne Westwood. Now seen an fighting back, heading back towards taking the lead have Britain isemergence of new talented designers including Gareth in the fashion industry. With Britain's most famous Kane's acidic play on sensory deprivation in 2005 to Christopherhigh street store, Topshop, opening in New Matthew the less returning to London 2007 marked the return of York and Williamsonpublicised opening in Australia New York.earlier this year marked a huge movement in British fashion. This year model Erin and New York-based Public Relations company ThankfullyLos Angeles O'Connor's creation of a model shelter between People's Revolution gave models handle problems faith in London past few years has helpedsponsorship, proving theirsuch as the size zero Fashion Week. Even the most models woman outrage caused during Westwood's use of 13 year oldpowerful and the in fashion - Editor of fashAmerican Vogue, Anna Week was also the first to row this models with phase. London FashionWintour - showed up front not allowyear after a BMI a walk the shows and In Matthew Williamson and Burberry returned totwo year absence. Both2002 London switched dates with New York so that from New York and Milan, not fall on 9/11 a year on. and Alexander McQueen took the first step towards uniting and be weeks in his collaboration with Nick London loves to shockfashion shocked. While everyone else stared openKnight's SHOWstudio up Bodymap's 1985 collection of acidic rubber rejoiced in and lapped with a live feed of his show Plato's Atlantis one pieces from a trip around Nature's takes Paris for all to see. Cosmic Curves.' Hussein Chalayan chose Britain to This September was and art, turning dresses into socially reflective ries between fashionno exception to the strange, thetables. While Alexander McQueen and the anti-fashion from designers from around the world, choosing relative medium, printing stills from the film `Taxi Driver' onto a dress and gagging his London as names such as `Highland Rape'. This year Alexander McQueen collaborated shows withtheir safe base to explore all mediums of style, from Jeremy Scott's Flintstones live feed of his show from Dior's elegant yet sexy SHOWstudio with a inspired show to Christian Paris for all of Britain to see. approach to lingerie and glittery socks for heels. Not forgetting Believe it or not, not all girls love fashion- withBritish women fashion is about so much Viktor and label, literal take on the credit gratifying slashing sections trend or a Rolf's which is why it's ever so crunch by that our Fashion Week is reflective of and making canon ball style much anti-fashion action and drama, as so much more. Filled with as holes in their billowing chiffon-net skirts the anti- fashion elite and an dresses. So what's in the to be for London Fashion Week? ing itlongevent for all British women future interested in. From Katherine Hamnett's 2003 reA fight to win back those who the catwalk printed with her slogan T-shirts down have lost faith. c with the words `STOP WAR. BLAIR OUT' caused with Mark Fast's use of size 14 models this year resulting in his stylist leaving. Each year designers choose to reflect the social and economic climate in their shows. Brits Fashion with statements in the form of political, social, economic makes us a unique addition to that run across New York, Milan and Paris. who visits the in expressing same be said Fashion Week National HisBritain's many by many of the of support in in London graduate show in order to approach to earlier in the swimming Milan and Paris Vivienne Westish than the last nia in........ home of many Naomi Campbell past few years Pugh and his highs in 2006. from showing in shows for the debate, Vivienne ion's heroin chic of fewer than 18 fashion week did mouthed Britain entitled `Barbie push the boundaused film as a models, creating with Nick Knight's more than just a this and about could want- makturn to the catwalk to the outrage teaming of the fashion weeks D ress by Faye Wilde Credits 00 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 50 by James i llustration Swabey I Blog Therefore I Am Blogging seems to have flourished and bloomed over the past few years. However, it's not a new phenomenon. Blogs started out about 14 years ago, simply to provide links and comments to other webpages and from that, modern blogs emerged. There are numerous blogging sites such as blogspot.com, wordpress.org or tumblr.com, all designed for you to share your thoughts, pictures, interests, and whatever else tickles your fancy, with the rest of the world. The fashion industry in particular has seen blogs becoming a huge trend. There are hundreds of sites solely dedicated to fashion, where you can find examples of street fashion, the personal style of bloggers themselves, or message boards crammed with comments on the latest musthaves. Publications such as Glamour and Elle UK now have journalists who blog for their online magazines. These blogs usually feature daily style updates or trend forecasting. However, one of the most popular magazine blogs is `Mademoiselle. Confessions of an Elle Girl', an anonymous fashion writer who accounts the daily ins and outs of working for Elle - jetting off to fashion shows, luncheons with celebrities and fitting in to the latest Gucci leather trousers (Warning: You may develop a serious case of jealously). Some bloggers have even reached celebrity status. 13-year-old Tavi Gevinson and her blog tavi-thenewgirlintown.blogspot.com have made a rapid rise to fame, which shows how the Internet plays a fundamental role in breaking down the barriers of this exclusive industry. With her blog getting an average of 1.5million hits a month, Tavi has spawned worldwide interest from the press and designers. She has even blogged her way on to the cover of Pop magazine and shares her wisdom on the online magazine itself. Fashion bloggers are increasingly gaining support from labels and designers who have realised the expanding popularity of blogging and the potential for new commerce - high-profile designers such as Marc Jacobs have even cited fashion Bloggers as being muses and influences to their designs. A mounting number fashion bloggers are now being invited to catwalk shows and major By Bethan Cooper events, as they are contributing widely to the distribution of news to the everyday fashion lover; it is undeniable that the Internet is becoming the most effective resource in connecting with the millions of people who love fashion. It is common for frequently viewed blogs to attract the interest of businesses or groups to feature advertisements either for financial benefit to the blogger or to bring awareness to the blogger's chosen cause. But, why has blogging suddenly become all the rage? Particularly amongst young people. Budding journalist Jade tells me, "I find it appealing because it's a place to keep all the inspiration I find and maybe inspire others. I like to hear about other people's inspirations too, maybe it's just the nosy parker in me. What's interesting to someone might be something you've never even considered before, so it's good to have new ideas and thoughts." Alice, a fashion student, agrees: "It's interesting to see what people think about clothes and if they think the same as you. It creates debate!!" In a world where opinion is everything, and fashion can put your stamp of individuality on life, blogs seem a natural way to express your personal style. Part of the appeal of blogs is that you can write in `dear diary' style whilst retaining anonymity. Many bloggers enjoy the simplicity of posting their thoughts online, as they are reaching out to the world with their thoughts and ideas. Blogging has a real community feel; you can follow the ones that you like, with feeds that keep you regularly updated on their activity, and you can comment on their posts. Eventually it evolves in to a network of people who share similar tastes and styles, from all over the world. Blogging enables anyone to become part of the media snowball, it has allowed more people to comment more consistently on the many angles that the fashion industry adopts. Blogs don't just have to be about the blogger and their opinions, many writers are now choosing to delve deeper in to a specific face of fashion. For example, some specifically concentrate on one designer whereas some prefer to stick to a type of fashion, like handbags. The fashion industry has a significant impact on the way we clothe ourselves. Fashion is driven by trends and fads, and fashion blogs provide a new innovative way to follow these trends or to act as a muse for our own styles. It is seems that blogs are going to be sticking around for a long time, leaving a considerable mark on the industry, and slowly bridging the gap between print and online journalism. c 51 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 52 and here are some of our favourites... Tavi Gevison calls herself the "tiny 13 year old dork that sits inside all day wearing awkward jackets and pretty hats". I adore her amazing blog tavi-thenewgirlintown.blogspot.com choc-o-block full of witty, observant text, beautiful images, diary videos and photoshoots of her latest ensembles. Recently rocketed to fame, this eloquently spoken teenager has the knowledge of a woman who's been in the industry for years. Full of insight and imagination, Tavi paints fashion in a new innovative light. I particularly love her little video blogs - she's so shy and modest, and incredibly dorky, but this is her charm. One of the main features of her blog is her documentation of inspirations from the catwalks, followed by a photoshoot of herself in her handmade creations. She is her own designer, photographer, make-up artist and stylist in one. On 25th Oct 09 she wrote, "One of these days I would really like to have a model to take pictures of as opposed to lugging around a tripod and taking pictures of myself with a self-timer, as neighbours and classmates wander past confusedly." Following her success in the blogosphere, not only was she featured in and on the cover of Pop magazine, she's now got her first taste of paid journalism, documenting her thoughts on New York's fashion week for Pop online. This little fashionista literally has the world of fashion at the tips of her fingers. by Rosie Ellis, Kyla Hammond and Bethan Cooper tavi-thenewgirlintown.blogspot.com ot.com ist.blogsp l monicarosesty I know this is the perfect way to end my night, sipping on chai and writing about my favourite blog, I can hardly stand it! Always keeping myself and other followers informed, Monica Rose - monicarosestylist.blogspt.com - breathes life into her blog with the perfect amount of provocation, edgy sophistication, yet delightfully feminine styling choices. Monica Rose is an LA-based fashion stylist who knowingly or unknowingly pushes the envelope, inspiring all who read her blog to step outside the box. Ms. Rose is a petite woman, with lovely olive skin and dark long tresses (absolutely gorgeous!). In her blog she shares her own eclectic style, what she loves at the moment, who she's working with, and is constantly giving us a new appreciation for fashion. Personally, I like to know where I can grab the hottest fashions, whether it's buying them online or simply running to the nearest boutique. Monica shares all she knows, from new photos, styles, make-up, clients and much more. Just from following Monica's fashion blog I am 100% positive my closet has evolved beautifully over the past two months. I am also presented with the opportunity of reinventing myself from time to time, and it keeps me updated on everything within the styling world. I have to say thank you so much Monica, for creating such an amazing blog that will definitely continue to be one of my favourites. Rumi Neely launched fashiontoast.com in late 2007. After visitors to her eBay store `treasure chest vintage' wouldn't stop asking what shoes she was wearing in all her pictures. Nearly two years has gone by and she gets 35,000 hits a day and each posts gets over three hundred comments. Her perfectly put together outfits consist of American apparel basics, incredible shoes, a piece of vintage and a timeless designer handbag, she describes her personal style as `one part grunge, one part Parisian influence all dipped in a giant jewellery box'. As the Internet started taking huge notice of her blog, designers and industry heavyweights started to latch on too. She was personally invited for a private tour of the American Apparel factory, then to New York Fashion Week in fall 2008 to see Alexander Wang's show and model Erin Wasson's line for surf brand RVCA. Playing muse to both and now due to this she has been given the huge opportunity to design her very own collection for RVCA. With her photographer boyfriend always in tow documenting her daily outfits, nights out and days in for us. Each photograph features a new picturesque setting; it really does feel like we're following a fairytale. It's a pleasure to read and leaves you asking. `Why aren't my leg's that long and why isn't this my life? fashiontoast.com mlul.com A Amlul.com is run by the effortlessly stylish 23year old St.Martians student Gala Gonzalez. She launched her fashion blog when she made the move from Spain to London. Saying the reason being, she `had no-one to experiment with' and needed a new way to play with fashion so began taking daily snaps of her outfits in Spitalfields in London against her favorite white wall. Her style is an eclectic collection of high street finds often celebrating a love for Topshop, charity shop gems and designer shoes and handbags with lashings of jewellery and trademark hair down to her waist. She's a key player in the new era where bloggers are taking over fashion icons and are being put top of lists for freebies and front row seats by designers. Her love of London that she hails through nearly every blog is refreshing. The photo documentation of the party's throughout Europe that she attends, being the creative director and main model for the Spanish based brand Linea U, being interviewed and photographed for editorials almost weekly due to the popularity of amlul.com, you can't help but be a little jealous of this beautiful twenty-something. Gala is definitely someone who needs to be watched so thank goodness she has a blog we can stalk daily and we have the feeling it's only going to get bigger. c 53 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 54 SASSY LIT TLE FRAS SY 55 e llard o o r c ce ll a rdo or 56 Meet Audrey. She's the face behind Be Frassy, our new favourite blog and a girl after our own hearts, with a vintage wardrobe to die for and a healthy obsession with fashion magazines. Still studying, English Literature in case you were wondering, Audrey still manages to update her blog with witty entries about her recent adventures. Not to mention her bold fashion choices that always seem to l ook effortlessly chic in her outfit posts. we spoke to audrey to see what she thought about the fashion blogging boom .... Credits ce ll a rdo or 00 How long have you been writing your blog? I've been blogging since August 2007. What made you decide to start Be Frassy? To me fashion is a means of self-expression and blogging is merely an extension of that. I guess I felt inspired by some really huge, influential blogging ladies and decided to get involved in the online scene. How did you decide on the name Frassy? It actually comes from a Mickey Avalon song called `So Rich, So Pretty'. He says something like `sassy little frassy', it automatically got stuck in my head - primarily because it's not even a word, but sounds like it SHOULD be a word. What inspires you to write? I guess my emotions inspire me to write. I am a very sentimental person, not in the conventional way but more in the way that I don't think I could ever write something devoid or detached from how I feel. And because my mood and emotions seem to change sporadically and quickly, my writing hugely fluctuates as well. throw random pieces together, which means I rarely wear the same combination of clothing more than once. Have you ever made any big fashion mistakes? When I was twelve. I had a Lycra pink camouflage tank top. It was awful, just hideous. Worst part is, I LOVED it. Ahh, the shame! Who are your fashion influences? Sienna Miller, the Olsen twins and Chloe Sevigny. Although my all time classic fashion influence would definitely have to be Edie Sedgwick. What things can't you live without? Mascara, my Balenciaga and Carmex. Oh and my phone! How much time do you spend on your blog? About an hour three or four times a week. Who takes the photos on your blog? I'm lucky because a couple of friends of mine are really into photography, so they are all happy to help out. However, often my Dad will click away for me and other times it is all down to self-timer! What are your daily blog reads? I'll have a browse on WhoWhatWear, Bohemian Musings, Why do you think fashion blogging then a quick look over style.com and a perusal of the has become so popular? I think it's because it's versatile. As much as I love models, fashion spot. fashion week and Vogue editorials, it is so refreshing to What are your favourite magazines see real people wearing real clothes, that they bought on at the moment? I love Pop Magazine, LOVE realistic budgets. Blogging gives access to achievable, Magazine and i-D, but French Vogue will always have my obtainable fashion, which is why it has become such a booming success. heart. How would you describe your style? I would say I'm a 60's wild child meets 80's diva. Do you any have tips for other bloggers? Do it. Click on to a blog. Take some photos and post, post, post away. It is so easy and even more How do you decide what to wear fun! each morning? I just literally toss on whatever. I like to be sporadic and often the most random choices And finally, where do you see yourself in 10 years? Ouch, I hate to think of result in the most original outfit. being 30 years old! I hope to have a successful online store and magazine and that they both prove lucrative Do you have a favourite outfit? Definitely not. I love all my clothes but instead of leaning enough for me to have plush apartments in Paris and towards a preferred outfit, I am more inclined to mix and London! Wouldn't that be lovely. c Vintage Gypsy 63 e llard o o r c Models: Abigail White and James Parsley Make up & hair: Penny Parrish and Jade Walker Photographer: Georgina Robinson somewhere between dreams and reality 71 72 Clothes by Astrie Sunindar & Sapto Djojokartiko Photography : Teuku Ajie for lukimages Stylist : Yoland Handoko Photo Retoucher : Teuku Ajie for lukimages & Todi Yahya Make Up and Hair : Billy Arya Model : Diana 76 ice ice 77 78 79 80 Photographer: Wendy Hope Model: Belinda Designer: Victor De Souza Stylist: Storm Pederson Set Design: Nesto Sutton Hair: Dante Blandshaw Make-up: Kim Weber Produced by: Sasha Wyroba Retoucher: MariaTheRetoucher 81 COTTON Candy Interviewed by Jade Cooper-Collins Credits Here at cellardoor, we love beautiful things and you can't get much more beautiful than Will Cotton's paintings. His work is a wonderful array of delicate, heavenly landscapes, featuring pretty models and cakes, that look exquisite. The native New Yorker has been creating and exhibiting his art for over a decade and when we stumbled upon his paintings, we were itching to get in touch with him. We couldn't let his artwork pass our readers by. Luckily Will was kind enough to answer our eager questions. 83 00 Credits 00 When did you first start painting? The first time I really picked up a brush was when I was about twelve years old and acting in a play at school. We needed a painted backdrop of a room in an old house and since I liked to draw I got the job. What inspires you to paint? I often have thoughts that are difficult for me to describe verbally so my inclination has always been to make pictures. Why did you decide to use food - particularly sweets - as your subjects? I'm interested in sweets as a symbol of the object of desire and of the impossibility of fulfillment. Insatiability. Your paintings look so life-like, how long did it take you to perfect your technique? I'm still working on it. It's important to me that my paintings look completely believable, a seamless environment in which the light, materials and textures are all working together. It's only in the last decade that I've felt close to capable of painting the way I want to. Apparently you cook the food you paint, where did you learn to cook? I've learned a lot from books, taken a few classes in New York and had some instruction from the head pastry chef at Ladur�e in Paris. Your work is so detailed, how long does it normally take you to finish a piece of work? I'll usually spend six to eight weeks on a painting with an additional month of preparation time making props Your work has a very vintage feel, if you could and preliminary drawings. have lived in any period Are there any other what would it be? Right now artists whose work you is by far the best time to be an artist. My particularly admire? My references to art history aren't coming current favourites from art history are out of nostalgic feelings for a particular Boucher, Fragonard, Tiepolo and Sargent. period, they're deliberately quotational. Among my contemporaries I'd say Cecily For example, I've made paintings in Brown, Inka Essenhigh, David Humphrey which I want to point out the connection between a nineteenth century Birth of and John Currin. Venus painting and mid-twentieth century How would you describe pin-up illustration. your style? I feel like my style is whatever it needs to be to get the point Where do you see yourself across. That's to say that I've made in 10 years? Same. At work in the deliberate changes in the way I paint studio. when I feel it serves the subject matter. What would you consider be your greatest Do you have a particular to achievement? I think in art, making favourite piece of work? Of my own work? Every now the best thing possible is to make work and then I'll keep one of my paintings that in some way changes the way people for myself, these tend to be my favorites. see the world around them. It's in the One is called Cotton Candy Cloud, it hangs extent to which I've done this that I've been successful. c above my bed. 87 88 is for... By Lucie Sitch Illustration: Jordan Kay msjordankay.com Photograph: Benedikte Olsen Imagine being a child again, and watching an image gradually appear out of the murky depths of a deceptively innocent little square of black. Imagine holding that image in your hand, a physical manifestation of a scene you can still see, a souvenir for a memory that is still being formed. Imagine the joy of possessing a photo that takes a second to capture, a moment to develop and a lifetime to treasure. Now imagine collecting your developed photographs a week after the images were taken; it doesn't quite compare, does it? The Polaroid is your vessel to the unparalleled photographic experience that comes from instant cameras. For a child, and the less technologically aware amongst us, Polaroids are a miracle. Edwin Land, the late scientist and industrialist, will forever be remembered as the inventor of the first instant camera: the Polaroid. Inspired by his three year old daughter's endearingly childish yet wonderfully avant-garde question; `Why can't I see them now?' regarding the pictures he had just taken of her, his invention, which allows users to watch photos develop before their very eyes, created a revolution in photography. Land's early vision for the Polaroid respected his daughter's wish, by providing its users with spontaneous and instant photographs. But Polaroid is more than just instant photography. Since the launch of Polaroid's first instant camera in November 1948, the Polaroid has provided fashion photographers, forensic teams, photojournalists, location photographers, amateurs and artists across the globe with a camera that both processes and develops photos that appear as if by magic. Indeed, Land himself called the SX-70 model `the magic camera'. Sean Turbridy, the founder of SavePolaroid. com eloquently sums up the beauty of instant photography; `For me, watching a Polaroid picture develop is like watching a memory form right before your eyes,' and he is far from alone in his passion for Polaroid. Books, art pieces, websites, fan pages, film citations and the line `Shake it like a Polaroid picture' from Outkast's song `Hey Ya!' prove that the Polaroid has become a beloved fixture in modern society. Clearly, those iconic white rimmed squares have gained Polaroid a cult following. However, the following clearly is not significant enough. In February 2008, Polaroid announced that it would stop manufacturing instant film, close down its factories, and produce the last batch of instant film in June 2008. Despite peaking in popularity in 1991, Polaroid filed for bankruptcy in 2001 in wake of the digital photograph revolution. Cheap, accessible and easy to use, digital cameras have signed the death warrant for Polaroid. In today's society, instant photos do not perform in the ways we want them to; we cannot connect our vintage 1972 leather-panelled SX-70 to our computer via a USB cable, nor can we send the image to friends at the click of a button, and forget waiting 60 seconds for our image to appear, `instant' is not instant enough anymore. Industries, such as modelling agencies, that used to rely so heavily upon instant cameras for photo shoots and lighting tests have gone digital, and Polaroid have suddenly found itself painfully out of touch with the modern world. And so the inevitable has happened; Polaroid has broken from its past and reinvented itself as a leading global Consumer Electronics and Digital Imaging company. One only has to browse the internet to understand to what extent loyal devotees of instant film oppose this switch; countless articles, petitions, websites and blogs are dedicated to lamenting the end of Polaroid, and the price of the last batches of instant film has risen dramatically. Exhibitions such as `Polaroid: EXP.09.10.09' which ran from October 9th to November 28th 2009 at the Atlas Gallery in London and `Shake It: An Instant History of the Polaroid', running from 6 October - 13 December 2009 at the Pump House Gallery in London have been set up in honour of the Polaroid. `Shake It' includes work by such artists as Andy Warhol, David Hockney, Nobuyoshi Araki and Rut Blees Luxemburg, amateurs and enthusiasts, and Polaroids from professions including forensics, fashion, film, archaeology and medicine. 89 90 The openings of the exhibitions coincided with the expiry of the last batch of Polaroid film, making them a poignant celebration `of an iconographic photographic format that is on the verge of extinction'. But there is hope for Polaroid lovers yet, in the form of `The Impossible Project', an organisation created by a team of Dutch scientists and Polaroid enthusiasts who have set themselves the task of reinventing Polaroid's instant film for vintage Polaroid cameras, acquiring the film production equipment from a former Polaroid factory, a 10-year lease agreement on the factory building and the attention of the most experienced team of Integral Film experts worldwide, in light of the influential global campaign to keep instant film in manufacture. The Project aims to re-launch Polaroid in 2010 for a new generation of instant camera users and of course, its devoted fans. But is there still a market for instant cameras when digital cameras allow you to crop, edit or delete photos in the blink of an eye? Florian Kaps, the Austrian entrepreneur behind the Project, and every person in support of the campaign definitely think so. In an age where we are so used to images being airbrushed to perfection that our perception of normality has been distorted, there is something refreshingly real about instant photographs. Here's hoping `The Impossible Project' is possible. c Photograph: Alicia Schultz www.beaphotograph.com Do you want contribute to the next issue? Send any examples of your work to email@example.com We love you xo 91 92 can you say konichiwa? I've always been fascinated by Japanese Culture, so when I was given the opportunity to visit Tokyo back in January, I said yes without a second thought. After the tiresome twelve hour flight we arrived, and it was wonderful. The sights, smells and sensations are so diverse to that of England, it's like being part of a completly different world. I spent, in total, six days exploring the city of Tokyo and it's surrounding districts such as Shinjuku and Harajuku. Each area was so different from the last, with the scenery changing drastically from the bustling city centre with high rise buildings surrounding you, to the open temple gardens near Harajuku where you walk amongst towering trees and elaborate wooden structures. The city areas were similar to London or New York - except everything was in Japanese. You could find any store imaginable within a short distance, and there was even a four storey department store dedicated purely to magazines and Japanese Manga comics. When you travelled by the underground train system to the outer districts the scenery changed to more low-rise buildings, the crowds subsided, By Suzanne Jones and you got a glimpse of the traditional Japanese culture and lifestyle. The Japanese are generally a very religion-orientated culture, this being shown in their breathtaking temples and gardens situated throughout the country. Areas such as Harajuku are famous for their shopping opportunities. Harajuku Street in particular is a wonderous place to spend the afternoon, discovering enchanting boutiques as well as common-place stores such as H&M and even Topshop! Another highlight in Harajuku is the street style. It's widely known in Tokyo to be the place where younger generations often parade around showing off their styles and fashions - there's even a particular bridge where they congregate to have photographs taken by tourists. During my time in Japan I realised that the country is one of wonder. After exploring the capital I now have a desire to return and see the less tourist areas, to see the typical fishing villages and the Geisha tea houses of Kyoto. I would advise anyone who's ever thought of visiting this wonderful country to do so, it's so different from anything you've ever seen and somewhere not to be missed. c 93 94 95 96 97 98 Twiggy: A life in photographs Launched as the `face of `66' thanks to Barry Lategan and an iconic haircut by Leonard, Twiggy has since become one of the most well-known and respected models of all time. As the National Portrait Gallery celebrates her 60th birthday, Twiggy is just as recognizable today - particularly for her modelling for the M&S adverts and as a judge on TV show America's Next Top Model - as she was in the swinging London of the sixties, with her large eyes, long eyelashes and `twig'-thin build. Running since the 19th September (Twiggy's actual birthday) until 21st March 2010, the exhibition displays Twiggy, from the first flushes of fame up to modern day, in some of the most iconic photographs taken in the fashion industry by the world's leading photographers. The display includes work by Bert Stern, Cecil Beaton, Ronald Traeger, Linda and Mary McCartney and S�lve Sundsb�. Along with the display, the National Portrait Gallery have published a photographic biography of Twiggy's life, including Twiggy's own personal snapshots, cuttings, memorabilia and insights on the photographer with whom she has worked. With free entry into the National Portrait gallery and a variety of other exhibits to see, `Twiggy: A life in Photographs' is definitely worth the visit. It gives the fashion and modelling industry a real sense of purpose. The photographs are beautifully experimental, and offer fantastic variety. It is amazing to think they all feature one woman. cu lt ur e that his book's characters where based on family members, who with their broken English and odd mannerisms, made them perfect templates for his monsters. With his unconventional characters and attraction to the forbidden and nightmarish aspect to children's fantasy, this exhibition on the award-winning author and illustrator looks to be a success. Alongside Sendak's work will be illustrations by more than fifty contemporary book illustrators from around the world. The Illustration Cupboard gallery holds the biggest collection of contemporary artwork from distinguished book illustrators and their Fourteenth Annual Winter Exhibition is running from 1st November until 31st January, with free entry. c l u b By Bethany McGlue The 14th Annual Winter Exhibition To coincide with the UK premiere of Tom Hanks' new film `Where the Wild Things Are' on the 11th December, the Illustrations Cupboard, near St. James' Park, London are focusing on the original book's artwork by Maurice Sendak at their Fourteenth Annual Winter Exhibition. The exhibition includes rare signed lithographs produced by Sendak from 1971, which are on view and for sale. As a boy Sendak was influenced by Disney's Fantasia and his father's `jazzed-up' versions of the Bible. He in turn created nightmarish monsters and placed them in a child's tale, gaining international acclaim with Where the Wild Things Are in 1963 as well as causing much controversy with parents. Sendak actually claimed e beatles wie to th bo Photography: Robert Whitaker and Tony Frank by Suzanne Jones If you're a fan of the swinging sixties then you're in for a treat. Recently opened at London's National Portrait Gallery, `Beatles to Bowie: The 60s Exposed' hosts more than 150 photographs of the 1960s era, 100 of which have never before been shown to the public. The photographic works are showcased chronologically, showcasing how the fashions and sounds developed, and featuring rare photos of musical and iconic wonders such as The Beatles, The Kinks, Jimi Hendrex and Lulu, to mention a few, during their rise to fame. The Beatles to Bowie explores the evolution of popular music and culture from pop, through psychedelia and into the introduction of progressive music. The 1960s were a generation that shaped the music industry into what we hear today, and this exhibition shows us the changes in a truly interesting and innovative way. The exhibition is open daily until January 24, 2010.into what we hear today, and this exhibition shows us the changes in a truly interesting and innovative way. The exhibition is open daily until January 24, 2010. 99 Illustration: James Swabey 102 Illustration: Evelyn Bracewell By Shebicad Miah As the year comes to a close, we begrudgingly admit defeat to the reign of good old fashioned pop in the charts, be it this years X-factor finalists or last years runner-ups. However, if you still think of Bombay Bicycle Club as a curry house in Hampstead, then you clearly haven't been paying attention. This lovely indie four piece formed while they were mere youngsters at school and after numerous line-up changes, in the summer of 2006, Jack Steadman, Jamie MacColl, Suren de Saram and Ed Nash began playing small shows and gigs across London. An admirable bunch, they have come a long way since then - in the same year of forming they beat off competition from fellow Londoners, The Holloways to win The Road To V, which saw them play the much-envied opening slot at the festival in Chelmsford. Having played to the thousands, the boys landed back to earth with a surreptitious bump and hungry for more. They took the time start up their own indie record label Mmm... Records and release their debut EP, The Boy I Used to Be. The record produced by Jim Abbiss, a guy who has Arctic Monkeys, Editors and Adele amongst others on his roster, was bound for good things and the boys headlined their first tour of the UK in support of its release. Impressively the EP debuted at #2 in the UK Indie Chart in November 2007 and after a summer of supporting The Young Knives, playing Reading and Leeds Festival, the lads saw in 2008 with a few more big name slots including Artrocker Festival, Camden Crawl and The Great Escape. Finally, in June 2008 the band finished school and began to concentrate on their long-awaited first album offering. A year in the making I Had the Blues but I Shook Them Loose was released in July of this year, a title which gives a nod to American hip-hop group, A Tribe Called Quest, a definitive step away from take-away references it would seem. The album spawned a handful of singles including live favourites Dust on the Ground and Magnets, the mixed reviews poured in; a weak Orlando al� Maccabees Jack was compared to, a poor mans Editors was their sound someone said. No much was mentioned of their energetic live presence, their faithful following or Jack's amazing ability as a songwriter, barely out of his teens. The band merely shrugged their adolescent shoulders and have shown their critics what for. In November this year they played a Little Noise Session for the charity Mencap, an event curated by none other than BBC Radio 1's indie-guru Jo Whiley. But that's not all, who were the other slots filled by? The Maccabees and Editors themselves no less, and along with the 500-strong crowd this was a club they didn't seem to mind being a part of. So, the charts might be astrife with pop and all three Black Eyed Peas singles in the top ten at once, but the Bombay Bicycle Club boys are simmering away nicely. Playing Xfm Winter Wonderland to see out the year, their own headline gig at KOKO, another tour of the UK and Europe, finished off with a sweet slot on the Shockwaves NME Tour, maybe, just maybe, slow and steady will win the race. The View from the arena By Bella Jewell After releasing their third album, `Humbug' in August of this year, it became apparent that Arctic Monkeys' Alex Turner had evolved and grown up when it came to song writing. The band's sound as a whole was darker, deeper and more complicated than previous material. To mark this change Arctic Monkeys stepped up on the venue scale at the time they perhaps stepped down on the popularity scale. `Humbug' left critics and fans divided. Whilst some claimed it was the best thing they'd ever produced, others felt it lacked the rawness and hooks that brought the band to popularity in the first place. Nevertheless, they still managed to sell-out nearly every night on their eight date tour of the UK's and Ireland's biggest arenas. Cellardoor were lucky enough to see the band play their second night at Wembley Arena... Arctic Monkeys delivered such classics as `I Bet You Look Good On The Dancefloor' and `When The Sun Goes Down' with their trademark crashing drums and frantic guitars, the audience welcomed these old friends with open arms (and with the throwing of cheap cider!) Eight tracks from `Humbug' were also warmly received- `My Propeller' amongst others, fuelling mass sing-alongs amongst all attendees. `Brianstorm' provoked the maddest , most frenzied reaction of the night, as the song's quick riffs and speedily phrased verses, coupled with the strobe lighting sent the crowd into overdrive. Moshpits emerged, lyrics were screeched and many afoot got trampled as everyone jumped and jerked to the hit. The evening was rounded off perfectly with a mash up of `Fluorescent Adolescent' and `Mardy Bum'much to the audience's approval. The whole of the arena sang word for word as Alex Turner led with a new found confidence, and hairdo. The band finished the show how they finished `Favourite Worst Nightmare', with `505'. Arctic Monkeys performed with the same energy and eagerness present in their previous shows, though this time; with the added class and sophistication of `Humbug'. Proving that yes, they have grown up, albeit no, they haven't left all the `dirty dancefloors, and dreams of naughtiness' behind them. 103 104 A sweet dream or For those of you who are yet to hear the musical delights of Joey Nightmare, we strongly recommend you head straight to their myspace and take a listen. The energetic melodies are guaranteed to make you want to dance, and you'll wish you had Tiff's beautiful singing voice. We love their style and think you guys will too. The band, who are currently based in Chichester, have recently released their EP `We Play Clowns', which is available to download now on iTunes. The CD is packed with their trademark of clicky guitars and upbeat tunes, you'll have your feet tapping in no time. We've got our copy on repeat, so we decided to find out more about the talented fivesome. Here Tiff dishes the dirt... a Joey Nightmare? How long have you all known each other and why did you decide to form the band? Some of us have been friends since we were 15, but we all met back in 2005 when we did a music course at college.That's where we first started, but we like to count the beginning of Joey Nightmare when our current drummer Benji joined in 2008. This was the beginning of our change in style of music as well. Band names are hard to come up with, so why Joey Nightmare? Back in college our guitarist once had a bizarre dream about our other guitarist (Joseph). He then claimed it to be a `Joey Nightmare'. As silly as it sounds, it's true and has just stuck with us. Your songs are so catchy, what inspires you to write them? We are all inspired by different things. Sometimes the simplest object or chord can trigger an idea. We tend to work in a group when writing; we inspire each other and develop from there, so I guess we should all take the credit, if that's not too greedy. How would you describe the style of your music? This is always a hard question as it is hard to pin point a certain genre but we have been described as a mix of pop rock/ Dance, maybe with a bit of ambience in there somewhere. What other musicians have inspired you? We are all quite varied in our musical tastes, so the influences are quite diverse. However, some tastes we share as a whole include Minus The Bear, Foals, Michael Jackson & mewithoutYou. Though it may be unfashionable to say so, we all really like `pop music', as in chart music. We all enjoy the simplicity found in mass-selling pop songs. If you could collaborate with anyone alive or dead, who would it be? Benji answers: Probably a collaboration with Spandau Ballet, Bon Jovi and Eiffle 65. What has been your favourite gig to date? Bizarrely we have had great audiences in the High Wycombe/ Chalfont St. Peter area North-West of London. It is 90 miles from home and we find it bizarre that a little band like us can get such a response. More obvious highlights include shows in front of bigger audiences, such as Brighton's Coalition club on NME night and a show at Brighton's Concorde 2. How have you managed without the help of a record company? We parted company with our record label in early 2008 before we got our new drummer in the summer. As a result, the time we spent with the company is a distant memory and has no real bearing on our current position. We are just trying to play the right shows and hopefully procure the attentions, and subsequently services, of management, booking agents, labels etc. 105 Illustration: Evelyn Bracewell 106 FANGTASTIC By Amy Power A few weeks ago the young female population of the world went crazy - the second instalment of the Twilight saga, New Moon, was finally released. Girls queued for hours to feast their eyes on the array of good-looking vampires and werewolves whilst getting their fill of Stephenie Meyer's mythical world. It's not just tweens that are getting in on the action though � young and old alike (I must admit I'm quite the `Twi-hard') are also being drawn in. Something there just captures the imagination of generations across the world. It's not just quite successful either � it's massive. Even when I'm not obsessively seeking more information, it's thrust into my face anyway, and there's no denying that people's behaviour becomes extreme once they discover Twilight. They shun normal society in order to read the complete series in as short a time as possible, spend hours on fan sites, buy items of clothing with some Twilight reference on it, choose either Team Edward or Team Jacob and swear to defend them to the death, start a daily countdown to the release of the next film - and that's just a few of the Twilighters' little quirks. So what is it that makes the readers have such a strong reaction? For me, it's the impossible yet all-consuming love between a mortal and an immortal. Having grown up on Austen, the Bront sisters and Shakespeare, as well as being a hopeless romantic at heart, I think it's a modern-day classic love story, which could even be compared to an 18th century gothic novel. Having spoken to various other fans, it seems that they are on a similar page, as well as just enjoying the thoughts behind the story and Meyer's fresh take on the vampire world. Vampires seem to be taking over the world. They've always been lurking around in popular culture from Dracula to Interview with the Vampire, and portrayed as anything from purely evil killers to highly moralistic members of society. Buffy the Vampire Slayer even got in early with the vampire/human love affair. However, in the past year the amount of vampires on our screens has risen dramatically, many of which are adapted from books. It seems that the popularity of one vampire book series has meant that everyone wants a piece. We have recently seen television series True Blood (taken from The Sookie Stackhouse Chronicles by Charlaine Harris) gain massive popularity in Britain after a successful run in the US. Girl-next-door Sookie falls in love with smouldering vamp Bill Compton, but rather than him being able to hear everyone's thoughts but hers as in Twilight, she is able to hear everyone but vampires. In this world, vampires are out and proud. The introduction of a synthetic blood � Tru Blood � has meant that vampires are able to survive without killing, allowing them to reveal their existence and become a part of society. Critics have been impressed with the series, and the explicit sex scenes and general adult content has created enough controversy to earn some cool points. The Vampire Diaries (based on L.J. Smith's series) is yet another vampire-based television series, not yet having made its way across the pond to our screens from America. It's like Beverly Hills 90210 with the undead. Two vampire brothers � moral Stefan and evil Damon � are at loggerheads with each other to get the soul of high-school student Elena, who is eerily like a woman Stefan fell in love with a century earlier. With another cast of impossibly good-looking vampires � the series is clearly aimed at the Twi-fans. The big screen is also cashing in on book adaptations � The Vampire's Assistant was a recent vamp film to be released, based on Darren Shan's series. Two 16-yearold boys, Steve and Darren go to a freak show where they see a vampire hypnotise a spider, after Steve is bitten by the spider, Darren agrees to become the vampire's assistant, and half-vampire in the process, to save Steve's life. Rumours of various other vampire films are flying around. According to some, Tim Burton plans to film a re-make of 1960's series Dark Shadows, starring (you guessed it!) Johnny Depp as main vamp Barnabus Collins and Clueless director Amy Heckerling is said to be making a film called Vamps � a rom-com about two young, female vampires living in New York, who face complications when they fall in love. There's been so much talk of production companies "jumping on the vampire bandwagon" that if you look online you are bound to find blogs by irate people, listing the amount of vampire-related films and TV series' due for release in the next few years. It seems we're not going to see an end of this craze for a while yet. It's a good job I'm slightly partial to the undead, now if you excuse me I've got a countdown to create... Tru Blood Check out what cellardoor are listening to on spotify. Find our playlist here: http://open.spotify.com/user/jadecc/ playlist/4BU2W1dBC3M8I6u920DsQ9 107 108 we n the 80's In the last year we have had to say goodbye to more than a few famous faces. Michael Jackson's death was probably the most publicised passing away since Elvis Presley's, and in the same week Charlie's Angels star Farrah Fawcett lost her battle with cancer. More recently, Hollywood lost two of its brightest stars � Patrick Swayze goes without saying, but also writer/ director John Hughes. Both have contributed to classic 1980's films which have now gained massive cult status. This set us thinking of all the great 80's films we've grown up watching. We've picked 10 classic 1980's films that we love to watch over and over again: o Dirty Dancing St Elmo's Fire The 1950's brought the Rat pack; the 1980's brought the Brat pack � a group of actors appearing in various films together. There were a whole host of Brat Pack films we could have included in this list: Pretty in Pink, The Breakfast Club, Sixteen Candles etc. but we think this film typifies the 1980's rom-com. A group of college friends adjust to life in the real world. Love, work and money cause problems for all as they try and discover who they are and what they want to do with their lives. It's worth watching for Rob Lowe playing the saxophone alone. Patrick Swayze worked his way into the hearts of females all over the world as Johnny Castle, who caught the eye of Frances `Baby' Houseman. Baby is destined for great things � college, joining the Peace Corps and an advantage marriage to a doctor, but she throws caution to the wind by falling in love with working-class Johnny while on holiday. With killer dance routines and a great soundtrack � it quickly became the ultimate chick-flick and is still popular today, having even been turned into a West End musical. Stand By Me Based on a short story by Stephen King, this film has been a massive hit with men and women alike. Four boys go into the woods to find the body of a local teenager by the rail road. They race to find it before the older boys do. A sweet look at the friendship of a group of young boys. o Weird Science A John Hughes/Brat pack collaboration (which became quite a habit). Two nerds create a computer-generated `perfect' woman. Her whole purpose is to boost the boys popularity and self-esteem by making them look good in various situations � of course, hilarious situations are in abundance. Imagine American Pie in the 80's. Back To The Future Who could ever forget the DeLorean that needs to get up to 88mph? Michael J Fox starred as Marty McFly who, with the help of his eccentric scientist friend Doc Brown, finds himself back in 1955 and accidentally prevents his parents from meeting. He has to find a way to get his parents together so that his future doesn't disappear, as well as finding his way back to the present day. This film spawned two sequels, and was even referenced in Busted song `Year 3000' � how proud they must be. Top Gun o Tom Cruise before he went all Xenu on us. Maverick and his friend Goose are sent to a Naval Flying school, where he must compete with rival Ice Man (Val Kilmer) to be the best in his class whilst falling for his teacher, Charlie. This film won the guys over with its action and the girls with a little bit of romance, and a few tear-jerking scenes. Makes a great date movie. o Desperately Seeking Susan A film starring Madonna that people don't mind watching! Rosanna Arquette stars as Roberta, a bored housewife following the love life of the mysterious Susan in the personal ads. After going to meet Susan, she is knocked unconscious. She loses her memory and lives the life she has longed to for � except she's now wanted by the mob. This film became as known for its fashion as it was for its content � girls still emulate Susan to this day. Ferris Bueller's Day Off Another John Hughes gem. Ferris Bueller is a serial truant who has decided to take another day off school, persuading his friends to join him. Determined to make it the best day ever, he has to avoid being caught out. These were the days when Matthew Broderick was better known for his acting than being Mr Sarah Jessica Parker. The Goonies THE cult kids film of the 80's. A group of kids find a map to pirate One Eyed Willy's hidden treasure. They must get to it before the evil Fratelli's find it, in order to save their houses from being demolished � with a little help from an unlikely ally. This film definitely gives that great nostalgic feeling and I dare you to watch it without shouting `hey you guys!' at least once. Flashdance/Fame/Footloose o OK, so this is technically three films, but they sum up a type of film that was huge in the 80's � dance films. These films all brought out amazing soundtracks, had brilliant choreography and made leg-warmers look cool. The craze has seen a recent resurgence with Fame having been remade and movies like Step Up being released. Personally, we think you can't get better than the oldies. c o 109 illustration by Charley Barry MY SPACE At Cellardoor we love to take a look around and see the weird and wonderful things that crop up everyday, so if we stumble upon something we think is great; we want to share it with the rest of you. That's exactly how we felt about Andy Torres' swanky pad. After moving in with her boyfriend, Andy decorated it herself and when we came across it on her blog, we fell in love with it. Here she describes it in her own words. E ANDY'S PAD Visit Andy at stylescrapbook.com 114 My closet was actually supposed to be a small room, but there was no way a bed would fit in there, so I turned into a walk in closet. I have way too many clothes and I have a hard time making them fit in my closet. Thankfully, I have a basement where I can store my off-season clothes in boxes.Since I have such a big problem with clothing storage space, I decided to place 2 racks of clothes and shelves in between and, I must say, it's working wonders so far! In the dining room, I wanted a bicolour theme, just because I wanted to accessorise it with zebra print pillows. That's why I chose to mix and match a white table with black chairs... of course I'm a big fan out doing little touches of colour here and there, so I chose dark purple place mats and to finish it off, a silver chandelier (I always wanted to have candle light dinners!) The living room is definitely my favourite room and the reason is simple and big - two metres big - my huge Eiffel tower picture. I am obsessed with Paris so I made sure you could see its influence everywhere in the flat, and that is the biggest coolest touch I think. Plus I have this really comfy small black couch where I sit and do my blogging, watch movies or just chill. Most of the pillows in my living room I made myself, I love giving quirky colourful touches to a plain couch - especially with the silver sequins and zebra print. c 105 118 Welcome to the Clubhouse Here's something that may interest all you magazine enthusiasts out there. At London's renowned fashion bookshop R D Franks � which if you haven't visited it yet on your London travels, DO, this shop is the gem of busy Oxford Street - behold University of the Arts London's magazine club (think book club but for magazines). The club was initially set up as part of UAL's fashion society after various disputes about fashion icons and magazine covers. Founder Kate Rintoul, a fashion journalism student, explains, `In February, when Cheryl Cole controversially donned the cover of British Vogue, there was a heated debate at the fashion society meeting as to whether she should have been featured in the issue.' This laid the foundations for the magazine club. `Since then, everyone who has been told loves the idea. Magazines are a real indulgence for some people and they've found it great to have an event based on them.' This summer the club opened its doors to the public. It gives magazine lovers a chance to share their views and join in the conversation about magazines and the latest issues affecting the industry. `I've really enjoyed helping run the club,' says Pandora Griffin, co-founder of the club. `It's been interesting to see its development over the year. When we first started, our meetings were only attended by a handful of students. Now we have members of the public, students and even the occasional lecturer, which always makes for interesting discussion.'The UAL fashion committee and R D Franks choose the magazines up for discussion, with mutual consent. Our first meeting was to discuss the very first issue of Love magazine, fashion supreme Katie Grand's new publication. Other magazines discussed have included Lula, Ten Man and a comparison of Pop and Love. Graphic design student, Daisy Dudley, who frequently attends magazine club, praises the diversity of material covered. `You never get bored because we're discussing a different magazine every week. It's great how there's no need to stick to a rigid structure. We can be talking about one magazine and then spiral into a conversation about something entirely different. For example, one month we started talking about Pop magazine and 13 year old blogger Tavi but ended discussing the Mark Fast controversy surrounding his decision to use plus size models.' The great thing about magazines is that there is always a little something for everyone. Everything from photo editorials to articles are under debate. It is interesting to get different perspectives on the magazines from members of the club with various interests, experience and course backgrounds. So whether you melt at the sight of Tim Walker's photography or feel inspired by Sophie Dahl's new columnist direction, you will always be able to explore whatever excites you. In August, Lula was under the spotlight when we celebrated Leith Clark's `book' of treats with tea, cakes and Lula-inspired ensembles. In July, instead of deciding what would be under discus- By Steph Jedd sion, we asked our members to bring their favourite magazine along. Vogues from across the globe, Mirage and So Chic! were presented, along with heated debates about Alexandra Schulman, the Editor-in-chief of British Vogue's, editorial choices. The club was divided between Kate Moss lovers and haters.October's venue and meeting format was improvised due to postal strikes leaving Acne Paper's place on the shelf bare. Instead of the usual format, members were encouraged to bring their favourite magazines, articles and spreads of this season. One member pulled out the first ever issue of ID magazine fresh from the 80s. Thanks to eBay and its magical ways, we were able to admire the stapled publication under The Social's dim lit candlelight, which certainly set a scene. These are interesting times for the magazine industry. Recent job cuts at Cond� Nast are symbolic of times when consumers are increasingly logging on to digitalized media rather than buying the traditional hard copy publications. It's hard to predict the pace that these changes will take place. Perhaps in the near future our members will be bringing along their laptops and comparing screen shots of their favourite online magazines! Whatever happens I know the magazine world will always continue to inspire individuals and will provide us with exciting conversation topics. I hope you will join us at one of our future events and become a part of the conversation. http://ualfashionsociety.blogspot.com Facebook UAL fashion society. Photographs by Steph Jedd. 119 120 Ramblings of a Jane Austen Addict... By Amy Power Everybody has one book that will bring back horrible memories of GCSE English. That one book which you read and read until you were sick of it. You watched the movie adaptations and analysed every paragraph just in case it should turn up in the exam. I have two of them � Thomas Hardy's Far From The Madding Crowd and Lord of the Flies by William Golding (in fact I disliked the latter so much that I only read one chapter - luckily the chapter that came up in the exam!). I'm sure they're British classics for a reason, but they just weren't my cup of tea. I am a bit of a bookworm. My whole life I've loved reading and can sit for hours totally engrossed in a fictional world. It was never the reading I objected to, but having books forced on me. They were not the types of books I wanted to read, they were difficult to understand and the subject matter just didn't grab me. I must confess to being a chick-lit lover. I know it's the genre that the rest of the literary world like to look down upon, but I just don't think you can get better than a good love story. It should come as no surprise then that I love Jane Austen. What I would give to meet a real-life Mr Darcy or Captain Wentworth! I never really spoke of my infatuation with any of my friends, thinking they would roll their eyes and make fun of me for getting lost in more made-up love stories as they often did. However, a few years ago the film adaptation of Pride and Prejudice was released and I went to see it with some friends. Whilst booking our tickets we all discussed how we loved the story and I realised that Jane Austen could never be put into the same category as chick-lit. I confessed to them that Jane Austen was actually a goddess to me and instead of laughing at me they all agreed. Over the past few years ITV has had a Jane Austen Season with remakes of Persuasion, Northanger Abbey and Mansfield Park along with a series called Lost In Austen about a modern day Austen fan who wakes up in Elizabeth Bennet's world. The BBC has also turned Sense and Sensibility into a mini-series and created one-off drama Miss Austen Regrets about Jane Austen's own love life. The film industry also got in there with Becoming Jane, which was loosely based on Austen's flirtation with Tom LeFroy. The truth is that Jane Austen created timeless stories. 192 years after her death she can reach out to her readers in a way that present day authors can only dream of. She may not hold much appeal to men, but to thousands of women she has set expectations (however unrealistic they may seem) for true love. That is exactly why Jane Austen books are classic. Her books are held in my heart along with Charlotte Bronte's Jane Eyre, Emily Bronte's Wuthering Heights and Dickens' Great Expectations. All of these authors are long gone, but the stories have carried on. Earlier this year it was discovered that Wuthering Heights was seeing a sudden rise in popularity in France � the reason being the Twilight saga! It's quoted in the third book Eclipse in reference to human Bella's confused feelings about her vampire lover Edward and werewolf best friend Jacob. It is compared to that of Cathy's feelings towards Edgar Linton and Heathcliff. Young readers that were unfamiliar with the story have been buying and reading it, bringing in a new generation of readers to the classics. I love that a modern story can open up a whole new world of literature to a young audience. So often children and teenagers are criticised for spending all their time watching television and surfing the internet and it seems society has little faith in the future generations, but whilst new technologies are being used to retell century old stories, they will carry on. As for my generation, I know that we have the best of both worlds. We can be up-to-date with technology whilst enjoying more simple pleasures. I will always read books, and one day I will encourage my children to read books. A few weeks ago I sat on the train reading Persuasion whilst listening to my iPod and smiled as I thought to myself, what would Jane Austen think if she saw me now? c Illustration: Laura Sitch 121 cellardoor When You Made Her Cry by Kat Nicholls There are always hairs out of place with her. When she attempts to doodle scattered stars they always fall into an ordered pattern. She walks unknowingly and with a frown - prompting unwelcome choruses of `cheer up love'. Her daydreams revolve around love. Her night dreams do the same. By day she works with pumping music and foreign customers. By night she plays with the words and images that bore her daily- twists and sculpts them into a thing of interest. She speaks without thinking sometimes, but will blush deeply upon realising. She walks the town with an urgency teased out from the white earphones on her iPod. She enjoys time alone, with no one but her songs, words and imagery for company. She cherishes her dark moments and spends hours devising plans to find the lights again. Nothing keeps her sullen for too long she's played that game before. Life plans are her favourite things to do. She doesn't care if you don't understand her- she wasn't made to understand. The only person she wants to be understood by will never understand. He sees her as innocent and light. He sees her as a good night out or a shoulder to lean on. He sees her as friend. Every day she goes to visit him in the second-hand book shop to admire his attire. Walking in, the dusty smell hits her more than usual as she fingers the leatherbound stories. There he is, behind the desk reading while the shop is empty. His curly hair falls with random perfection around his eyes. He pushes his glasses up to stop them falling on the page while his mind falls further into the plot line. She walks over to him and stands in front of him for five full minutes before he looks up. `Jesus, you scared me! How long you been standing there?' `About ten years. Good book?' `Amazing, can't put it down. You should borrow it when I'm done.' She tugs at her trench coat and smiles at the offer. He's making her nervous today. She's known him for two years now and their quiet friendship has floated along quietly, until now. It was last night when she realised she was in love with him. So many different things can tell you when you're in love with someone - a look, a kiss, a softly spoken word, but she knew when he made her cry. They were at their local bar watching some unsigned talent sing slow songs on the guitar and they were sipping whiskey with unusual urgency..... `You seem nervous, you OK?' She asked as he shifted in his seat. `Yeah, there's just someone coming tonight that I want you to meet, and I'm nervous about what you think...' `Oh no, please tell me you're not setting me up with another friend? ~122~ cellardoor I can't take another bad date!' `No, no.' He laughed. `Her name's Jasmine. And I think...I think she's my new girlfriend." He squinted at the thought. `Oh.' That was all she could muster. She had never seen him even talking to another girl, she couldn't imagine him on a date. And for some reason the though of it made her a little queasy. When the girlfriend walked in the queasiness intensified. She was perfection. Tall, curvy, Italianlooking, smart; someone he could share coffee with and discuss politics. As the night progressed she started to feel unwell. Her chest was burning and she thought she may lose her dinner at any moment. She watched them kiss in time to the music and suddenly she could barely breathe. `I'm, gonna take off guys...' `You OK?' `Yeah, too much whiskey! I'll come see you at the shop tomorrow. Nice to meet you Jasmine.' She got home and fell into bed. And then she cried. She cried as if this was the first time and all the pain in her life had built up to this moment. Hot tears scolded her face as sobs exploded from her throat. It was then that she realised she was in love with him and that nothing would ever happen. She saw their future in high definition, he would fall madly in love with Jasmine and she would cry nightly over her pain. She suddenly understood what defines a true love. She realised that if love is true, it will not die. Despite her desperation, despite her hatred of loving - it would never stop. Scar tissue would remain long after he left her life. His gentle touch on the back of her head would be with her until time stopped running. Time would only make the feelings stronger; nothing would put this desire to bed. She picked herself up and stopped her tears, sore and weary from drowning. She saw further into the future where hope of this ending, hope of a release, would eventually die. Suffocated from her own breath, she'll send a coffin full of hope off like a paper boat into the sea. Slowly it will fall into the distance as she will accept her fate. And what a fate it will be. Collapsed on her bed of dreams, she will remain fallen. She will accept the pain and stare into it with no fear. She will be beyond fear by then. She will be beyond everything. Returning to the present and in front of him at the bookstore she wonders if he can see her pain yet. Will he realise one day what he did to her the night he made her cry? Probably not. She is too good an actress for that. She buys a book from him and tells him how great she though Jasmine was. She even lies about having a date the following night. What she doesn't realise is that inside he has been crying for two years. Last night was the night he decided he needed to get over her and that he should put real effort into this new relationship with Jasmine. After all, she would never go for a bookish fellow like him. She had too much spirit. He watches her leave, new purchase in hand, and returns to his story. In his book characters fall in love easily and madly. He wishes they had. He wishes they had. c ~123~ cellardoor To Love Again by Naomi Thomas His smile was as radiant as it had ever been. His eyes, blue as ice, still housed the same spark that had caught her attention all those years before. Grace had been waiting for this moment for 48 years and now as she glanced at the man stood before her, she was overwhelmed with the love she still felt for him. His presence still made her nervous; the silky tone of his voice was enough to make her drop to her knees. Henry had stolen Grace's heart from the moment she laid eyes on him, and she had never gotten it back. `You haven't changed one bit,' breathed Grace. `Nor have you, you've become more beautiful with age if that`s possible,' he replied. `Don't flatter me, I look old,' she laughed. `No Grace, you look as wonderful as the night we met,' he said softly. The Season of 1968 saw Grace, barely 18 years old, thrown into a world of lavish balls. A world of debutantes seemingly on the prowl for wealthy partners. Her mother deemed it a rite of passage and claimed that coming out was a young girl's way of announcing herself and her desire for a husband. Grace had never once entertained the idea of love or marriage, not at her age, not until the moment she caught her first glimpse of Henry. Margaret Dalton's ball was held in the Mayfair Hotel during the middle of June, and was one of the more decadent of the season. That night as Henry made his way down the marble staircase and into the ballroom, it was obvious he wasn't a part if this world but he intended to make himself one. His tux was old, almost threadbare, but still he exuded more confidence than any other male in the room. He caught Grace's eye as he descended and weaving his way through the crowd, he headed straight towards her. `Please excuse my bluntness but you are the most beautiful young lady I have ever encountered,' he said smoothly. A slight blush crept into Grace's cheeks as he threw her admiring glances. Accepting his proposal to dance, the electricity she felt when he held her hand was indescribable. Henry relished the limelight, he was an old-fashioned charmer but a gentleman nonetheless. An extremely handsome character, he displayed chiselled features, dark wavy hair and eyes the colour of rain. His looks meant he could have any woman in the room, and that night he chose Grace. By the end of the evening she was infatuated. She was brought back to reality by the sound of Henry's voice and she looked at him and smiled. `Shall we take a walk on the beach?' he suggested. `It's such a magnificent day.' They walked in comfortable silence for a while until Henry came to a halt. She knew what was coming. `Grace, why are you here?' he asked. `After all these years and all the pain, what do you want?' `I want to apologise,' she whispered. `I let you down, and I've lived every day of my life regretting it.' She could still see traces of pain ~124~ cellardoor in Henry's eyes as she spoke, and as she watched him now she was reminded of how much she had truly hurt him then. Their romance had come up against every obstacle imaginable during the season, but none greater than Grace's own mother. She was against their union from the beginning and she was quick to point out that Henry was from neither wealth nor status, and he was not the suitor she dreamt of for her only daughter. Grace had known it didn't matter what her mother thought of Henry, it was her opinion that mattered. Her heart told her he was the one and that was good enough for her. Understandably it broke her heart later on to find out that Henry had gone behind her back to her mother and offered to walk away from Grace in exchange for money. She had been betrayed by the man she considered her soul mate, and she was broken. `How could you do that to me?' she confronted him one evening. `I thought you loved me. All this time you were just playing me for a fool so you could bankroll yourself a better life.' His words were almost inaudible, `It seems there is nothing for me to say. You`ve already made your mind up about me. `Don't you see Grace?' he laughed. `She's won! Your mother's won. She finally came between us, your love for me obviously isn't strong enough if you can believe her word over mine. You ruined us, not me.' `You`re a liar!' Grace exclaimed. `Believe this my darling, nobody loves you like I love you,' he whispered. `Nobody ever will.'She shuddered now at the very memory of that night. She had found out years later that it was all lies, and that it had been her mother who had tried to bribe Henry to leave. As she should have known he would, out of his love for Grace, he had turned her down. Since then Grace had lived her life knowing she had lost the one person she loved more than any other. In the end neither Grace nor her mother won; Grace never found anybody she could love as much as Henry, and so she had never married. Instead she had lead a life of solitude, mourning the loss of her one great love. `It took me a long time to understand why your mother did what she did,' Henry said. `She wanted the best life possible for you and she knew I couldn`t provide it. She did it for love, although I`m not excusing her actions.' `I'm surprised you never married. A woman as beautiful and wonderful as you deserves a fine man,' he smiled. `I had a fine man,' she said quietly. `I let him go. What about you? Did you ever marry?' `No,' he answered, shaking his head sadly. `There was only ever one girl for me but she broke my heart. Luckily for her, I believe in second chances.' As she reached out to grab his hand, Grace saw the years of love reflected in his eyes and she knew he meant it. Finally, she had found her way back home. `I'm glad you're here Grace,' breathed Henry. `It's taken me forty-eight years to get here, but I'm finally here,' she whispered back. c ~125~ until next time.. Photography by Suzanne Jones. cellardoor xo