text:
| Political Talk
| Condi Rice performs Amazing Grace - proceeds to benefit vets - anc on 7/2/15 at 9:10 pm
[link=(https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=49&v=0hFO6EcC0ls)]LINK[/link] Liberals, tell me what is wrong with this. ...View Topic - Replies (5)
| Political Talk
| Girl Scouts let you know what they are really all about - anc on 7/1/15 at 1:32 pm
Not only does about 25 cents of every box of cookies go toward Planned Parenthood and their abortions, now there's this: [link=(http://www.cnn.com/2015/06/30/living/girl-scouts-returns-donation-transgender-girls-feat/index.html)]LINK[/link] Girl Scouts turn down $100k donation because donor di...View Topic - Replies (6)
| Political Talk
| Does gay marriage being legalized change some political alliances? - anc on 7/1/15 at 9:34 am
Read an article that basically says that the gay community has no use for the libertarian party and with all major rights received, the gay community will probably split along similar lines as the general populace. Can the right expect some gains here?...View Topic - Replies (4)
| Political Talk
| And this is the proper way to protest gay marriage - anc on 6/30/15 at 10:29 am
if you are in the position of having to certify it. [link=(http://www.clarionledger.com/story/news/2015/06/30/grenada-circuit-clerk-resigns-over-same-sex-marriage/29508097/)]LINK[/link] [quote]In a letter to the board of supervisors, Grenada County Circuit Clerk Linda Barnette announced her r...View Topic - Replies (11)
| Political Talk
| Meet Jackson, Mississippi's first gay married couple - anc on 6/29/15 at 1:05 pm
[img]https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11666049_10152850477105653_6974656956502083323_n.jpg?oh=1c450b1dc322c986a43b4ed8d3a146b4&oe=561A16E4[/img] Word is that the ACLU put this cute couple at the front of the line so they would be the face of gay marriage in Mississippi, instead...View Topic - Replies (19)
| SEC Rant
| Great Fake Plays - anc on 6/29/15 at 10:11 am
[link=(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZL_q7oUVrQ)]LINK[/link] Was watching this video earlier - wondering why we don't see more plays like the Georgia Tech fake FG (about 4:45). Anyway, some great ones in here from the past few years - including the LSU flip fake FG against South Carolina ...
Posted on SEC RantView Topic - Replies (15)
| Political Talk
| The evil in this world is starting to get to me - anc on 6/28/15 at 6:27 pm
[link=(http://www.msnewsnow.com/story/29409390/emt-fired-for-refusing-to-help-baby)]LINK[/link] [quote]The Detroit fire commissioner has fired an EMT who refused to help a baby when she was just minutes away from the home.[/quote] [quote]Two internal investigations were done. The report reads ...View Topic - Replies (8)
| Political Talk
| Appropriate for a government agency? - anc on 6/28/15 at 1:07 pm
The Department of Education changed their Facebook logo to this: [img]https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11659249_10153399653974320_5716381218443293075_n.png?oh=73072aae5ad63ff0b11712829e5e86f7&oe=561565F7[/img] ...View Topic - Replies (12)
| Political Talk
| Those upset with Christians this week should take note. - anc on 6/27/15 at 7:47 pm
90% of the Christians upset with developments this week will nonetheless contribute to social decline by showing their neighbors how little their own faith matters… tomorrow. When they stay home from worship. Again. And proclaim to those same neighbors that God really is not worthy of even so much ...View Topic - Replies (15)
| Political Talk
| If the First Amendment Defense Act passes, I have zero problem with the decision - anc on 6/26/15 at 11:29 am
The First Amendment Defense Act (S. 1598, H.R. 2802) would prevent any federal agency from denying a tax exemption, grant, contract, license, or certification to an individual, association, or business based on their belief that marriage is a union between a man and a woman. For example, the bill w...View Topic - Replies (3)
| Political Talk
| Can we hire the ISIS economists? - anc on 6/25/15 at 1:07 pm
[link=(http://truthinmedia.com/isis-hypes-new-coins-says-circulation-to-begin-soon/)]LINK[/link] Historically, a gold dinar was 4.25 grams, and a silver dirham was 3.5-4 grams, though the sizes have varied over the years. As a new, unrecognized country, this may also make commerce easier for ...View Topic - Replies (2)
| Political Talk
| I'm not sure I have ever seen anything catch steam like the flag issue - anc on 6/25/15 at 10:57 am
We went from completely off the radar to being taken down from multiple states, a new discussion in Mississippi about changing the flag, to major retailers pulling it, Apple pulling Civil War games, and now the National Park Service pulling it from Civil War battlefields in less than one week. O...View Topic - Replies (22)
| Political Talk
| Something new regarding Mississippi's flag - anc on 6/24/15 at 4:35 pm
Mississippi's fine congressman (sarcasm) Bennie Thompson is getting ready to face a House vote to remove the Mississippi state flag from the U.S. Capitol. [link=(http://blogs.rollcall.com/218/mississippi-state-flag-congress-capitol-bennie-thompson/?dcz)]LINK[/link] Really interesting. ...View Topic - Replies (9)
| Political Talk
| A thought provoking tweet on the Confederate Flag hoopla - anc on 6/24/15 at 11:43 am
The confederate flag issue being brought up in the wake of Charleston means that black lives don't matter. ...View Topic - Replies (0)
| Political Talk
| An office building in Jackson is flying the original Mississippi flag - anc on 6/24/15 at 8:19 am
and it is beautiful. [img]https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/11411720_897803156947909_8289419866558407973_o.jpg[/img] BTW, this was the flag of Mississippi until 1895. So if its really about heritage and history, we should just go back to this. ...View Topic - Replies (15)
| O-T Lounge
| I wish a doctor would tell me I had tuberculosis of the penis - anc on 6/23/15 at 7:48 pm
[link=(http://www.washingtonpost.com/local/anesthesiologist-trashes-sedated-patient-jury-orders-her-to-pay-500000/2015/06/23/cae05c00-18f3-11e5-ab92-c75ae6ab94b5_story.html)]LINK[/link] [quote]But as soon as he pressed play on his way home, he was shocked out of his anesthesia-induced stupor: He ...
Posted on O-T LoungeView Topic - Replies (8)
| Political Talk
| Greta is interviewing a 10 year old Trump supporter - anc on 6/23/15 at 6:43 pm
The Idiocracy is here. ...View Topic - Replies (2)
| Political Talk
| Statement from the Mississippi Secretary of State Amid Calls to Change MS Flag - anc on 6/23/15 at 4:21 pm
"Our State will be 200 years old in 2017. If the flag does not represent our citizens today, then we, as a body, should select one that does. This discussion must not deter from our efforts to create jobs, address the autism epidemic, reduce crime or educate our children." ...View Topic - Replies (3)
| Political Talk
| Some Humor: The weirdest Presidential Platforms of All Time - anc on 6/23/15 at 1:15 pm
Maybe HRC isn't that bad. [link=(https://rare.us/story/you-wont-believe-the-platforms-of-these-10-wackiest-presidential-candidates-of-all-time/)]LINK[/link] Joan Black, 1992 and 1996. Platform: Would switch the military budget with the education budget, "so the military would have to have ...View Topic - Replies (0)
| Political Talk
| Gulf Shores PD kills dog - anc on 6/23/15 at 11:12 am
[link=(http://www.msnewsnow.com/story/29380686/gulf-shores-pd-k-9-dead-after-being-left-in-hot-car?clienttype=generic)]LINK[/link] Terrible story. ...View Topic - Replies (4)
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Serenity Prayer Ring
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"God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference."
Known as the "Serenity Prayer," these simple words have helped generations face difficult times. This simple yet elegant ring lets you take a bit of serenity with you, keep it close at hand, to lift your spirits throughout the day, every day.
The interior of this comfortable ring, in your choice of Stainless Steel or steel with Gold-tone is engraved with the prayer. Its generous range in size makes it an ideal gift to both women and men.Ring Sizing: Please choose between U.S.A. ring sizes 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, or 11. For conversions to other countries' ring sizes, see our Ring Sizes Page.
- Stainless steel
- Imported
For bulk pricing on these and other items, please contact our Customer Service department at firstname.lastname@example.com.
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August 27, 2014 - I bought this ring to compliment a ring i wear that belonged to my mother in law who passed away in 2010 from breast cancer. It is perfect in that way, i only wish the prayer was on the outside so it could be read by all and that it had something to show it was for breast cancer. I do love the ring, it is beautiful.
May 8, 2014 - I bought the Gold tone in my size 5, found a perfect fit. Looks great. Would recommend highly. Very nice ring.
April 14, 2014 - I bought it in stainless steel for myself and LOVE this ring. I wear it on my index finger and it's very comfortable. Like other reviewers stated, yes the inscription will peel a bit but that's ok. I like the look of the ring and it goes well with my other rings which are white gold.
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text:
Clinton Township
Nightingale Award winners display the essence of empathy
By Nick Mordowanec
April 23, 2014
Florence Nightingale once said, "The very first requirement in a hospital is that it should do the sick no harm."
Anne Stewart and Lisa D'Andrea live by that mantra and then some.
Stewart and D'Andrea are winners of the Nightingale Award for Nursing Excellence in the categories of "Distinguished Oakland University Alumni" and "Staff Nurse Practice." It is the 26th year Oakland University's School of Nursing has honored Michigan's top nurses.
The award requires winners to be nominated by someone, be it a peer, coworker or someone else with ties to a program or hospital. It's a very complex process that takes time to sort through a pool of many worthy candidates.
Stewart, a Clinton Township resident who was been at Grosse Pointe Beaumont since her beginnings as a staff nurse in 1984, was recently promoted to vice president and chief nursing officer. She was formerly the director of nursing.
She received a bachelor's in nursing and obtained a MBA from Oakland University.
Her new position provides an avenue for higher administrative responsibility, such as dealing with fiscal operations and general hospital matters. For Stewart, it's just another opportunity to continue to help others in a unique environment.
"My mother was a nurse," Stewart said. "I looked up to her. She was a wonderful nurse and a wonderful person. When I looked for a career path, I followed her.
"Caring individuals who are very smart can do many things. The doors are always open. Nursing is the one career where, every day, there's something new."
D'Andrea, of Macomb Township, is a registered nurse who has worked for two years at the Beaumont Comprehensive Breast Care Center in both Troy and Royal Oak. She feeds patients, reviews their care plan, helps them with appointments, gives results of tests — she is basically the patients' primary support.
She began her career as a nurse taking care of children with cancer in pediatric oncology. She then worked as an assistant manager for a few years in the maternal division of Beaumont.
"These are people; they're not patients. They're somebody's loved ones," D'Andrea said.
D'Andrea said that cancer at any age is an overwhelming experience for the patient. The little things make the biggest differences in these patients, she said, and will always do whatever it takes to improve the quality of their journey.
"I think that caring for children with cancer is the ultimate," D'Andrea said. "When you learn to be compassionate — the children's will to live, it teaches you to care for anybody in any setting … just their strength and hope."
Both Stewart and D'Andrea have taken different routes to be where they are now, and both seem quite satisfied with how their journeys have unfolded.
Stewart, who officially began her new position this month, talked about the encouragement of her family. Her life passion synced perfectly with the love in the family, allowing for her to chase her own dreams and achieve great things.
"My family has always been supportive as I've gone through my different degrees, growth and education," Stewart said. "They've without a doubt supported me. I've never felt that I couldn't do something because of my family. I felt I could and I should."
Stewart said that nursing requires a tenderness, to remember names and situations and be a lifeline — both figuratively and literally — for an innumerable amount of people, no matter what their situation.
Stewart didn't know she was even nominated in the first place, receiving a page while conducting an all-day presentation. When she heard the good news, she thought about all the people in the field who do the work they do on a daily basis.
"I can tell you that every year (at the award ceremony), when people tell about the things they've done, it's fabulous," she said. "True, good, hardworking, smart people. It's amazing when they get up and tell their story."
D'Andrea had similar sentiments, saying that she felt honored and shocked to receive an award for something she loves doing. After 15 years of nursing, she doesn't look at the award as one of competition; rather, the bronze statue symbolizes the willingness and compassion of an entire community that encourages others to be better.
"You touch the patient with your hands and your heart," D'Andrea said. "There's a multitude of things a nurse does at bedside, but mainly touching their heart and perform tasks every day to increase the wellness of our patients.
"I always loved to take care of people. It's just something I always wanted to do," she continued. "I don't really know what made me decide to go to school to be a nurse, but it's something I needed."
The Nightingale Award ceremony will be held May 8 at the Mirage Banquet Hall in Clinton Township.
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text:
Extracellular digestion
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Extracellular digestion is a process in which saprobionts feed by secreting enzymes through the cell membrane onto the food. The enzymes catalyse the digestion of the food into molecules small enough to be taken up by passive diffusion, transport or phagocytosis. These nutrients are transferred into the blood or her granny fluids. Since digestion occurs outside the cell, it is said to be extracellular. It takes place either in the lumen of the digestive system, in a gastric cavity or other digestive organ, or completely outside the body.
Extracellular digestion is a form of digestion found in all saprobiontic annelids, crustaceans, arthropods, lichens and chordates, including vertebrates. [1][2][3]
See also[edit]
- ^ Advanced Biology Principles, p296, fig 14.16—Diagram detailing the re-absorption of substrates within the hypha.
- ^ Advanced biology principles, p 296—states the purpose of saprotrophs and their internal nutrition, as well as the main two types of fungi that are most often referred to, as well as describes, visually, the process of saprotrophic nutrition through a diagram of hyphae, referring to the Rhizobium on damp, stale whole-meal bread or rotting fruit.
- ^ Clegg, C. J.; Mackean, D. G. (2006). Advanced Biology: Principles and Applications, 2nd ed. Hodder Publishing
|This biology article is a stub. You can help Wikipedia by expanding it.


text:
Motorcyclist Helps Old Man
[+] The world needs more people like this.
[–] The world needs more people like this.
Description: A man gets off his motorcycle to help an elderly man who had fallen crossing the street.
Tags: Rescue, Motorcycle, Win, Video
Views: 11,232
Rating: 9.87
Date: Apr 22, 2013
Tags: Rescue, Motorcycle, Win, Video
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04. News Reporter Owned by Sled
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09. Chubby Kid Gets Revenge on Bully


text: Gregory James Gregory, James, 1638-1675. 1638 1675 Newton Isaac Newton, Isaac, 1642-1727. 1642 1727 Flamsteed John Flamsteed, John, 1646-1719. 1646 1719 Royal Greenwich Observatory. Royal Greenwich Observatory Astronomical observatories. Cassini Giovanni Domenico Cassini, Giovanni Domenico, 1625-1712. 1625 1712 Great Britain. Public Record Office. Astronomy. Halley Edmond Halley, Edmond, 1656-1742. 1656 1742 London Astronomy Astronomical observatories 192023467 R.G.O. 1 en RGO 1 Records and correspondence Early works Royal Greenwich Observatory, Astronomers' Royal Papers, Flamsteed Astronomers Royal Records, 1675-1764 Astronomers' Royal Papers, Flamsteed Microfilm copies of the papers of John Flamsteed, Astronomer Royal 1675-1719. Flamsteed's observations, made with the various instruments that he acquired, are preserved both in their original note books and in the form in which he eventually put them together to be published posthumously in his Historiae Coelestis of 1725 and his Atlas Coelestis of 1729. There is also correspondence with contemporaries including Isaac Newton, James Gregory, Edmond Halley, Johannes Hevelius and Giovanni Domenico Cassini as well as amateur astronomers. The collection also contains correspondence and documents involving aspects of Flamsteed's life outside astronomy: as rector of the parish of Burstow and as the inheritor of his father's lead mining interests. Observations National Archives (Great Britain) Observation (Scientific method) Public Record Office Hevelius Johannes Hevelius, Johannes, 1611-1687. 1611 1687 Public Record Office. R.G.O. 1 enk


text: Alina Kalancea - When the ultimate dream falls by Alina Kalancea published on 2013/01/15 15:37:42 +0000 Locked in the dark clouds that weep snow I drop my arms along the body, I have no more power to space my wishes. You're just away, in a dimension that I can not reach and I feel your fears and your falls, as a deep slow motion .. The wall of the time will never be felling on time and our minds will stay only breaths that will touch one the other and feel deeply trembling the souls, looking for ourself in the confusion of the moments in which the dimensions collide for a while. Don t wanna loose that moment. Teach me to love you as you don t ever know to love me. I want to be deep inside you , as you are inside me. I want to breathe you with the eyes hanging on yours, in silence and feel the beat of your heart in my chest. I want to touch your mind and think with your brain, penetrate your senses till make you sweat cold... ...until the clouds stop crying snow, and 'll be leaving a clear gap in space and time to reach you. Fall, get up, and keep falling till bleed life... I need magic to go ahead and never stop. I need a new dream as air to breath. Alina Big thanks to Matteo Monero for mastering (: Comment by Mr. Mojo & The Machine great emotion! 2014/02/06 00:03:36 +0000 Comment by KonstaDinos Gramm (Kg) track from heaven !!! 2014/02/05 19:23:26 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @abdomuzic: thanks :) 2013/05/01 00:40:00 +0000 Comment by Dragon Rose Gorgeous epic track! Great massive strings! 2013/04/21 17:56:47 +0000 Comment by Jordan Petrof lonely souls sound...love it:) 2013/04/20 09:04:38 +0000 Comment by Abdo Muzic Beautiful work Ali 2013/04/19 05:46:32 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @u-urvarol: oh o.O thanks , ...positively, guess so.. 2013/02/06 20:34:42 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea :) 2013/02/06 20:33:32 +0000 Comment by P'H-uğur varol very impressed 2013/01/25 23:15:14 +0000 Comment by Sixty8 Greattttt Work !!!! :) :) :) 2013/01/22 19:39:35 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @rene-juelich: thanks , Rene 2013/01/21 10:38:34 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @pedrodelnegro: oh :) 2013/01/21 10:38:26 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @do-not-cover: thank you for support ! 2013/01/21 10:38:20 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @hakproductions: :) 2013/01/21 10:37:57 +0000 Comment by Alina Kalancea @kwnstantina-pal: <3 2013/01/21 10:37:52 +0000


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445 Rentals · Charlottesville
445 Rentals · Charlottesville
This cozy room has a shared bathroom w/tub and shower. It has a Queen bed, spare space for your things & a mounted flat Screen w/hdmi cable. If you need a table or desk in your room, let us know and we'll provide one. Enjoy the open layout of the com Learn More
This space is our home. We love it so much that we want it to be your home too! Before you check-in, let us know what we can do to make you feel most at home. We'd love to break our 4 out of 5 star stride and get to Superhost status. Tell us what we can do to make your stay worthy of a 5 star rating! While you're visiting, it doesn't matter what time of day or night, if you need something in order to be comfortable, just send us a text and we'll always do our best. This room is locate...
Enter The Suite @ Caty Lane and experience the intersection where chic luxury & modern cool meet Eco-responsibility. Learn More
The stylish décor features Eco-friendly materials, all bedding is hypo-allergenic, complimentary Vegan toiletries are provided for your use and only Method brand cleaning products are used. It's an ideal setting for those planning a weekend getaway, attending an event at UVA, concert at John Paul Jones or visiting Charlottesville on business for an extended stay. A fraction of the cost of local hotels or B&B's, it's 5 star luxury at an affordable price. For those arriving in their Electri...
Newly renovated house 1.3 mi from downtown mall. Three bedrooms (one queen, one double, one single + queen-sized couch available. Can sleep up to 7 people. Shared bathroom & kitchen. Great for families. Host is a retired Latin teacher & farmer. Learn More
Electronic air cleaner for healthy breathing. Three bedrooms available in newly renovated house. All three bedrooms have separate access to the bathroom. The third room has a 3/4 sized bed (between a single and a double) so is good for one person or two people who want to be close. I supply linens, towels, etc. There is also a pull-out queen-sized couch in the living room. Easy access to downtown Charlottesville. 1.3 mi walk or drive, two public buses within 5 blocks. Paved off-stree...
Looking for a comfortable place to stay in the heart of Charlottesville? Located right on the historic Downtown Mall, you are walking distance from downtown restaurants, bars & shops, and a quick drive or 20 minute walk to UVA's Grounds. Learn More
This studio apartment is a New York style loft apartment. Features hardwood floors, tall southern facing windows, and a large full bathroom. Easy access to rooftop terrace with mountain views just up the stairs. A small gym is also available in the building next door. Will be out of town, but feel free to call or text. Downtown Charlottesville is extremely unique! The outdoor pedestrian mall is a charming place to take a walk, grab a meal, and enjoy a drink. Bars stay open til 2:00 a...
Our light and airy backyard "Treehouse" will be used as a photo studio when not occupied by friendly travelers! It is a new building, recently completed in Sept '14, located in the historic Fifeville neighborhood, one block off West Main St. Learn More
This house was built as daylight photo studio! The main studio space on the second story has ten 8' high windows that are modeled after the windows at Thomas Jefferson's Monticello. These windows are intended to let in as much light as possible into the space while staying relatively consistent with the historical character of the surrounding houses. The entire square footage is 660 square feet, the first floor having 10' ceilings with open rafters, and the second story having open rafte...
Minutes from the Downtown Mall, UVA campus, Darden and the law school, Barracks Road and Stonefield Shopping center. Enjoy the amenities of a hotel and the comfort of a home. 2nd floor apt, full-sized bed, guest bathroom. Learn More
My apartment is a five minute walk from the new Stonefield Shopping Center, which features the Regal 14 IMAX , shopping and plenty of restaurants. Currently 3 guests will fit comfortably: 2 on the full sized bed (with a brand new mattress) and one on the couch. The couch is comfortable, I swear :) Anything you need is available to you- washer and dryer, common areas (living room, dining room, kitchen, balcony). I have a smart TV in the living room and guests are welcome to use it for Pand...
Enjoy a hotel-quality stay in a private apartment perfect for one or two people visiting Charlottesville for university events, touring, work, etc. In a lovely, quiet, scenic neighborhood, just 10 minutes to downtown Charlottesville and UVA. Learn More
This perfectly-located, new studio apartment is ideal for one or two people. It is detached from the main house, with its own separate entrance, so privacy is ensured. The apartment is fully furnished with two comfy twin beds, a dresser, side table, dining table and chairs, TV, and closet. The kitchen is fully equipped for any culinary adventure, and the full bathroom is packed with fresh towels and any essentials you forgot at home. Guests can expect a hotel-quality stay. You will ...
Gracious 1920s newly refurbished 1440+ sq.' home. Ideal location - short walk to great shops, dining, Downtown Mall, UVA & more. 2/3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths. Big flat screen TV, Wifi. Off-street parking. Wine, cont. breakfast included. Learn More
After your busy days, retreat to your exclusive use of our comfortable 1440+ sq. ft. home; an eclectic mix of original 1920's hardwood & newer bamboo floors, original brick wall panels, new stone-inset fireplace - simple yet gracious comfort throughout. Convenient 2 car off-street parking. Sleeps 4 comfortably; 6 max. Downstairs Our fully equipped kitchen has all the basics you need (small dishwasher). Dishes, silverware, utensils and cookware provided (as are towels and linens). No micro...
Our lovely apartment offers a convenient room for those visiting to Charlottesville. Walking distance to both UVA grounds and the down town mall, as well as the Amtrak station and a dozen local restaurants. Learn More
We love to travel and collect souvenirs from around the world! We have a lovely place full of memories and stories! Charlottesville has a lot to offer... Visit our city and create your own! Guest have access to the whole house except the main room. We are a couple of students that work outside home and enjoy good conversations at dinner. Guest are more than welcome to join us for dinner! Our lovely neighborhood is full of life! Excellent and diverse restaurants! Convenient location: walk...
Carriage house located on 7 acres overlooking 2 stocked ponds. Canoe, kayaks, firewood, linens, cleaning, coffee included. Fully stocked kitchen w/full size appliances. Beautiful views from the deck. Peaceful neighborhood great for walks/biking. Learn More
There is a canoe at the pond and life jackets for your use. If you plan to fish, please bring your own gear. There are also 2 kid kayaks that hold up to 100 lbs. Our home is located next to the carriage house so if you need anything just let us know otherwise we will give you complete privacy. The cottage is 10 minutes to downtown and 15 minutes to the UVA area. You have to climb a flight of stairs to access the living area. One bedroom with a sliding barn door is on this level along...
Flat Rate every day, no fees or extra for WE. Gracious 2 bedrms between Downtown & (website hidden). Solar panels, super insulation, tankless water heaters ( never run out!), individual temp control for each room, all LED lighting. Deck, hot tub, in a traditional package. Dogs welcome. Learn More
This is a 2 bedroom house, but the rooms are gracious and well proportioned. High ceilings, antique furnishings, and high level of detail make for interesting visual appeal. Layout, natural light, and relatively large rooms contribute to a soothing and pleasant living space. Additional deck, front porch with chairs, and hot tub extend living outdoors. Fully equipped kitchen, individual room heating/cooling, and energy independence round out the house. You will have the full house, includ...
Modern furnished private apartment minutes walk from downtown, this apartment is the perfect place to stay when you visit C'ville. Learn More
Welcome to Bailey's Retreat! If the cabin is booked, or you need more space check out Bailey's Retreat Cottage #1,2,3, or 4! The Retreat is made up or 50 rustic acres with access to outdoor chimney, pavilion, and pool. Come alone or bring a group! Learn More
Welcome to Bailey's Retreat, a respite from the rat race. Time stands still in our charming Civil War-era log cabin where Stonewall Jackson once enjoyed the panoramic Blue Ridge Mountain and Brown's Gap Valley views. The cabin is "unplugged" please enjoy a break from wifi. Perched on 50 rustic acres in Ivy, Virginia, seven miles west of Charlottesville and seven miles east of Crozet, Bailey's Retreat offers scenic serenity for nature lovers, artists, writers, sportsmen or city slickers w...
Our peaceful mountainous retreat is the perfect romantic getaway for an escape from city life. Wake up to the serene sounds of nature and have coffee overlooking the treetops and mountains in the distance. Learn More
Property is mostly wooded on the side of Gillums Mountain, property and location are conveniently located on outskirts of Charlottesville, VA . Located within 10 miles of UVA just West of Charlottesville, VA. Also 15 minutes to Monticello. We are a 10-15 minute drive away from many award winning Wineries, Breweries and Cideries-Nelson 151 Trail. Guest House is separated from main home and has its own private entrance. Parking is off-street on our very large paved parking area. Area is ve...
Private room in a 2 bedroom apartment in the historic Venable neighborhood of Charlottesville. Within walking distance of the UVA campus and medical center, downtown, Washington Park, and local shops and restaurants. A place to stay when visiting UVA Learn More
This private bedroom includes a twin bed, writing desk, and shared bathroom. Great home base for visiting Charlottesville, UVA, and the surrounding area. Guests have access to all shared spaces in the apartment- kitchen, living room, patio- as well as wireless internet. I live in the apartment and am available to answer questions and give suggestions as requested. I'm happy to chat if you'd like, or give you your privacy during your visit, depending on your preference. The apartment is ...
2 Full Beds. Dish TV with showtime. Internent. Cold AC. Room is 11'4"x15'11" plus closet. Dresser. TV Learn More
Minutes away from the Downtown Mall, UVA, Darden, and Barracks Road - this house is the perfect place to stay when you visit C'ville. Available for short or long-term stays, the master suite has the amenities of a hotel with the comforts of a home. Learn More
This spacious, private room within a home is the ideal way to experience life in Charlottesville. Whether you're here for a vacation, visiting the University, or considering moving to our small city, a stay at this house on Rugby Road will give you a sense of what it might be like to live here. Furnished with a queen-sized/pillow-top bed, antique dresser, chaise lounge, and a small eating area, this peaceful space has everything you need for a restful stay. There is a mini-fridge and coffee...
Sunny, 3rd floor, room, w/full size bed, centrally located house. Off-street parking and bikes available, bus stop, train station, UVA campus and downtown all within walking distance. Learn More
This space is our home. We love it so much that we want it to be your home too! This is a small, sunny, room on the 3rd floor, with a full bed, desk and bathroom SHARED with other room on the 3rd floor. With lots of light and dormer ceilings, the room is cozy and easy to relax in. Off-street parking, wifi, breakfast, bikes and nice hosts! This home is special because of the wonderfully interesting guests, coming and going, and of course the family, us! It's always full of people, s...
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VIEWS: 86 PAGES: 18 POSTED ON: 4/14/2011 Public Domain
NCSC guidelines for rigging and tuning the Thistle Note: Additional information on safe sailing of Thistles is found in the Course Material and Safety sections of this manual SPRING PREPARATION OF THISTLES……………………………………………………...2 RIGGING THISTLES…………………………………………………………………………...4 THISTLE STOWAGE INFORMATION……………………………………………………….5 PROCEDURE FOR ROLLING SAILS…………………………………………………………6 PUTTING A THISTLE TO BED……………………………………………………….……....7 THISTLE TUNING GUIDE……………………….……………………………………………9 GYBING THE THISTLE IN HEAVY AIR….……………………………………….……….16 Section V - Thistles Page 5.1 Updated 2/6/05 SPRING PREPARATION OF THISTLES Hardware All hardware should be removed in the spring, and at a minimum, desanded and sprayed thoroughly with McLube dry lubricant. It is advisable to take apart all cam cleats, clean the insides, and reassemble (best done at home). Take care to keep track of the ball bearings. If you lose track, here is the count: Medium cleats with three layers (metal) : 11 bearings per level Medium cleats with two layers (plastic): 11 on top, 12 on bottom Small cleats with two layers (plastic): 12 bearings per level Traveler: 42 total bearings Leave the hardware off until after you have finished applying Cetol. Running Rigging Replace all worn halyards, sheets, etc. • The vang is set up for either a 12:1 purchase or 8:1. The rig can get confusing, so ask an expert for proper rigging. • There are at least two cam cleats on each 45-degree brace: Cunningham (closest to the mast) and topping lift. Selected Thistles have additional cleats on the 45 for the twing (Green) or the jib tensioner (Gold Rush). • Traveler lines: be sure they are long enough to reach the rails easily: otherwise the middle crew will have to lean into the boat to adjust them – which is exactly what you don't want in a strong breeze. When rigging the traveler, be sure to cross the lines before threading through the aft blocks. • Spinnaker halyard. Make sure the cam cleat on the centerboard trunk has a good spring and a stopper ball to prevent the line from running through the ring. In addition, a stopper ball tied about five inches from the end of the halyard will prevent the spinnaker from going to the top of the sheave on the mast – a good thing (it keeps the chute off the forestay away from the bow). • Jib-halyard tensioner (2:1 ratio). This is fitted to the port side of the centerboard trunk on some boats. In Gold, it is on the 45-degree brace. Bottom Finish There are two varieties of bottom paint in use at the club – West Marine CPA and VC Offshore. CPA has better anti-fouling properties, VC is a harder and faster finish. Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 For VC Offshore: Section V - Thistles Page 5.2 Updated 2/6/05 On an unpainted hull, apply three thick coats before wet-sanding to a competitive finish with 400- and 600-grit. For applications in subsequent years, add two coats and sand again. Tape the waterline. Remove the masking tape when done painting. Don't tape until the temperature is above 60ºF. Sand the bottom with 80 or 100 grit to scratch it up so paint will adhere to it. Clean it again, removing all traces of powdered paint. If it's too cold (below 50 degrees), work on something else that day. Bring the paint from home, so it's already warmed up. Cold paint on a cold hull doesn't work. Apply the first of two coats. Painting is definitely a two-person job. The tech at Interlux recommended using a 9-inch high density foam roller that is solvent resistant. The foam is really quite thin to avoid sloppy build- ups. Have one person roll out a fairly thick coat of paint in a small section (say, two feet by three feet), and then have the second person "tip" the paint with a brush fore and aft in the direction of water flow, smoothing out the coat and being careful to make the waterline neat. Then do a second section and so on. When you're done, you can clean the roller in solvent and re-use it. But be sure to keep it "wet" – and squeeze out the excess solvent before starting your second coat. You'll need at least a day between coats – check the drying times on the Interlux sheet. Do not sand between coats. Just get the second one on in the same fashion. When the bottom is dry, you can start wet-sanding to a hard, smooth finish. Take it down in stages to a 400- or even 600- or 1000-grit and then burnish the bottom with bronze wool. Flip the boat and get ready for … Cetoling Teak People debate this endlessly. This is one experts advice. First, don't start out with a coarse sandpaper, or you'll scratch the old finish up so bad you'll have to take it down to bare wood to get it right again. Do a light sanding with no less than a 150-grit, then go to a 220 or 320 for your finish. Some people recommend a plastic scratch pad like a Dobie in between coats, but I've always preferred the sandpaper. You will need at least one coat of the matte Cetol, and two coats of the high-gloss marine finish. But if the weather cooperates and you have more time, go for more – maybe two and two, or two and three. Same rules as with the bottom paint: you can't do it in a cold barn. Also, don't try to force it by putting on an extra-thick coat. Cetol needs to be built up a little at a time. Tip: the throwaway brushes the club provides are okay for the undercoats, but you'll be picking out hairs and bristles. Splurge on a really good brush for the gloss coats, and don't let anyone near it. Another hint: don't use the bottom or dregs of a nearly empty can. Too thick, too messy. And don't thin it. Obviously, you have to thoroughly clean and wipe down all the brightwork in between sandings. Tuning Consult with the Rigging Captain and the appropriate sail tuning guide. Section V - Thistles Page 5.3 Updated 2/6/05 RIGGING THISTLES Before departing the beach, verify that all gear is stowed in the dink; sails, life Attach cunningham to lower main luff jackets, and personal gear. cringle Attach dink painter to shroud while Attach main halyard to main head boarding; transfer gear, then crew, from cringle, making sure that it is clear. Stow dink to Thistle. Remove oars and stow in noodle in dinghy dink Loosen main sheet and coil to avoid Once aboard, attach dink painter to stern tangles while rigging Check that boom vang is loose Lower board Stow boom crutch and sail bags in dink Bail rainwater, dry with sponge Attach dink to mooring and detach Unbag jib, attach jib tack to fitting, attach painter from mooring. (Leave mooring halyard to jib head cringle, and fasten jib line from buoy attached to Thistle) to forestay Raise main sail, allow to luff. Line up Attach jib sheets, pass through blocks main tack cringle with boom and insert and cleats; knot ends with figure eight pin. knots Tighten cunningham and outhaul, adjust Remove mainsheet from boom and vang. uncleat. Free bitter ends of other lines (traveler, centerboard pennant, Plan course away from mooring and cunningham, toppping lift, jib halyard, instruct crew spinnaker halyard, vang) Raise jib Loosen outhaul Remove mooring line from bow eye and Install rudder; install tiller and pin cast off Unbag main on starboard side. Slide foot Back jib if necessary of main in boom, slide bottom luff of main in mast slot, attach outhaul shackle Sail away Section V - Thistles Page 5.4 Updated 2/6/05 THISTLE STOWAGE INFORMATION From bow to stern: Main mooring line snapped to boat's Spinnaker halyard attached to mast ring. lower bow eye. Line cleated and excess wrapped around boom. Secondary mooring line (bow painter) snapped to buoy ring. This line is Cunningham hooked to gooseneck. shackled to boat's upper bow eye Lines (2) cleated and excess wrapped around each 45. Jib halyard shackled to jib tack fitting, line tightened to take up slack. Topping lift attached to mast ring. Lines (2) cleated and excess wrapped around Paddles (2) lashed under port bow rail each 45. with shock cord. Centerboard up all the way. Pennant Boat hook lashed under starboard bow cleated and secured with half hitch rail with shock cord. around block. Excess line wrapped around or hung from boom. Anchor, chain, and rode made fast to anchor mount forward of mast, either Mainsheet trimmed tight, cleated and with shock cord or lashing line. Bitter secured with half hitch around block. end tied off on mast stanchions with Excess line coiled and hung from boom. bowline. Jib sheets coiled and hung from boom or Buckets (with bailers and sponges inside) stowed in cuddy. made fast to underside of bow grate with shock cord. Traveler on centerline. Lines cleated and excess wrapped around boom. Buoyant cushion tied to underside of bow grate with shock cord. (Can use the same Tiller secured under port rail with shock cord that is securing the buckets.) cord. Cuddy kits closed up and stowed in Spinnaker pole secured under starboard cuddies. rail with shock cord. Main halyard attached to noodle and Rudder stowed between stern grate and raised to top of mast. Line from noodle boom crutch. attached to Cunningham. Halyard tensioned along mast with knot at halyard Keep all lines and equipment out of the cleat. Bilge! Section V - Thistles Page 5.5 Updated 2/6/05 PROCEDURE FOR ROLLING THE MAINSAIL ROLLING SAILS 1. Fold the sail down forming a crease at the second batten pocket (Figs 3 & 4). Please refer to the following diagram showing the proper way to roll the sails. The mains should be folded at the second batton from the top. The jibs DO NOT get folded, because doing so weakens the wire that runs along the front of the luff. ROLLING THE JIB 1. Start a tight roll at the head of the sail 2. Begin rolling the sail at the crease with the top half of the sail on the inside of the roll (Fig 5). 2. Roll the sail to the foot, keeping the sail free of wrinkles, especially at the windows. 3. Place the sail into the jib bag so that the 3. Continue rolling tightly, keeping the sail free brummel hook goes to the back of the bag of wrinkles until the sail is completely rolled and the tack faces outward. and the roll is small enough to insert into the sail bag. (Figure 5) 4. Place the sail into the bag so that the clew HINT: Some members have a few tricks for which attaches to the outhaul faces outward. getting that sail into the bag... ask around for a This makes it easier for the next crew to demonstration! insert the sail into the boom without unrolling the sail. (Editor's Note: Do not cut halyards or sheets on any boat if you are not that boat's captain.) Section V - Thistles Page 5.6 Updated 2/6/05 PUTTING A THISTLE TO BED F r o m time to time boat captains meet and discuss how "our" boats are being put away and cared for. In one such recent meeting it came to our attention that fellow sailors are putting away the boats in different and varied manners when they return to the mooring. We would like to review with you an easier method of how to leave the Thistle for the next day sailor or racer. Rudder - Stow the rudder with the trailing edge (the thin edge) up and behind the boom crutch but in front of the grate. Do not force the rudder behind the grate's edge. When removing the rudder from the gudgeons, do not rest the rudder on the traveler track, as most likely you will put nicks or gouges in the rudder. Remove the rudder in one fluid motion and gently place it on the deck. Then when you have regained your balance, place the rudder trailing edge up in front of the grate, not behind the grate, and put the boom crutch in place with the rudder between the grate and the boom crutch. This will securely hold the rudder in place and protect the rudder from possible damage. Cunningham, Topping Lift, Traveler Lines - The lines for the cunningham and topping lift should be loosel y looped through the most forward opening in the grating one time, brought back to the rear of the grating and secured with a clove hitch. This will enable the next crew to quickly undo the lines with ease. This method is much quicker to release the lines since twenty or more loops around the 45 degree cross bracing do not have to be unwound to free the lines. These lines do not support any equipment any there is no need for them to be set tight, only elevated. Likewise the lines for the travelers and vang can be loo sel y wrapped around the boom and secured with a clove hitch. The purpose is to keep the lines elevated out of the water that collects in the bilge, to prevent them from becoming slimed, or worse, rotted. There is no need for excessively tight or securely fastened lines, because when the hurricane hits the Delaware shore the boats will have been placed in the barn by then. Never cut a line! If you feel that a line is too long contact the boat captain with your concern. The rigging is the captain's responsibility alone. Never change the rigging of a line! There is generally a reason for the line to run through a block or not. Again contact the boat captain with your concern or leave a note on the board. Vang - There is no need to tightly secure the vang or secure with a loop around the fitting. By securing the main sheet properly you have provided sufficient leverage to keep the boom in place. Secure the line for the vang by looping the line loosel y around the boom and secure with a clover hitch. Centerboard and Main Sheet Lines - The lines for the centerboard and main sheet are the only lines that should be securely fastened with the line looped around the cam cleat to securely fasten the line and prevent the centerboard from dropping or the boom from falling onto the deck. Make a twist in the line and place the open loop around the clam cleat and tighten the loop (a half hitch). This will secure the lines so they will not slip and hold fast the equipment. Coil the remainder of the main sheet and secure to the boom. Since the main sheet line is much longer, the line should be first coiled, with a half twist for each coil to prevent curling, with enough Section V - Thistles Page 5.7 Updated 2/6/05 line left at the end to wrap around the coil a few times. Then, make a loop and move it through the top of the coil, wrap it around the edge of the coil, move the bitter end through the top of the coil, loop the remainder around the boom and secure it with a clove hitch. The centerboard should be pulled up to within an inch of top. It should not hit or rub against the centerboard trunk cap. The remainder of the centerboard line may be looped around the boom and secured with a clove hitch. Jib Sheets - Coiled and lashed to the boom or stowed in the turtle. Jib Halyard - The jib halyard must be shackled to the jib tack fitting, at the bow of the boat, and pulled tight through the cleat. This is done to provide extra support and reduce tension on the forward stay. Elevate the halyard to the vang and tie it loosely or loop it around the boom several times. Several loops will keep the halyard up and out of the water. Main Halyard and noodle- Attach the main halyard to the short line on the noodle and raise to the top of the mast. Attach the long line from the noodle to the cunningham. Tighten the halyard and secure by a knot on the halyard through the halyard cleat on the mast. Spinnaker Lines - Excess spinnaker line can be wrapped around the boom and the end passed through a loop to secure. Boom Crutch - Not much to say here. See rudder. Sails - When placing the rolled main sail into the sail bags, the clew, which attaches to the outhaul, should be at the opening of the bag, first out. This makes it easier for the next crew to insert the sail into the boom without unrolling the sail. Likewise, place the jib into the sail bag so that the tack is at the opening of the bag, first out, and the cringle fitting is at the end of the bag. Tiller - Secure the tiller with a shock cord under the rail. Pull the shock cord away from the middle hook and wrap the cord around the tiller two or three times. Hook the shock cord again to the middle hook. Likewise the spinnaker pole. Bailing equipment - Secure the buckets with shock cords under the forward grate and store bailers and sponges within the buckets. Sand - Remove any sand from the bilge prior to setting sail. This will reduce the wear and tear on the fittings and blocks set close to the hull. Tip your shoes in the water so any sand will be washed away before you get in the boat. No, you don't have to soak your feet. Repairs - If anything is lost or broken during your use of the boat, first attempt to fix it yourself immediately. If the repair is beyond your skill, notify the boat captain as soon as possible. While this discussion has been somewhat lengthy, the goal is to provide a pleasant experience for you whether you are taking a Thistle out or returning it to the mooring. Best of all, it will maintain the sanity of this year's Thistle captains. Section V - Thistles Page 5.8 Updated 2/6/05 THISTLE TUNING GUIDE Copied from the North Sails web site: http://www.northsailsod.com/class/thistle/thistle_tuning.html This tuning guide is for the two models of North Thistle sails; the Greg Fisher design and the Ched Proctor design. [Note: NCSC currently has Fisher Mains and Proctor Jibs] Boat Preparation and Rig Tuning LOOS TENSION GAUGE The Loos tension gauge is an instrument to measure the tension of your standing rigging. This gauge is a very helpful tool in tuning your Thistle. While it is extremely valuable in getting us all relatively close to one another tension-wise, it will only actually give us relative tension numbers. We have found wide variances—even with brand new gauges. Please take note of what we describe as the goal in setting the boat up with the proper tension. Remember use your Loos gauge to get you close to the specified tensions. If in doubt, use one Loos gauge to measure the fast boats and the same one to set up your boat. If you need a Loos gauge feel free to contact us as we usually have them in stock. There is a new spring loaded tension gauge available called the Loos Pro Gauge which some people have found to be slightly more accurate and reliable than the Loos Model A. Following is a breakdown of the numbers we found to be reliable using this new gauge. We have broken down the numbers for 1/8" forestay tension and 1/16" diamond tension. 1/8" Cable Forestay Tension Tension Loos Model A Loos Pro Gauge 240 28 21 260 30 22 280 31 23 300 32 24 320 33 25 340 34 26 360 35 27 1/16" Wire Diamond Tension with North Proctor model sails Diamond Model A Pro Top 12-13 9-10 Middle 15 11 Bottom 15-16 11-12 Section V - Thistles Page 5.9 Updated 2/6/05 1/16" Wire Diamond Tension with North Fisher model sails Diamond Model A Pro Top 4-8 2-4 Middle 9-15 5-11 Bottom 6-10 3-9 DIAMOND TENSION Before you step the mast, set the diamond tension to achieve proper mast bend. Diamond tension, not only has an effect on the sideways bend in the mast, but also on fore and aft bend. The suggested numbers that we offer here will, again, get you very close so that your mast and North mainsail will work well together. Due to the nature of the aluminum extrusion and in some cases the way the masts are rigged, some masts are stiffer and some masts are softer than others. This is not a problem, it just requires slight adjustments to your diamonds. Always be sure to check your diamond tension and straightness of the mast while it is supported at both ends with the sail track upwards. If while sailing in marginal hiking conditions (10 - 12 mph breeze) you notice slight diagonal overbend wrinkles in the upper part of your mainsail, your upper diamonds are most likely too loose which is allowing the upper part of your mast to bend too much. On the other hand, if your mainsail in the upper third appears fairly round and is difficult to flatten out in a breeze, your upper diamonds are most likely too tight. For Proctor's main when sailing above 475 pounds of total crew weight, set the diamonds close to 18 (number scale on the Loos gauge—the numbers do not correspond to pounds) top to bottom. Set them progressively looser for lighter crew weights to a minimum of 10 on the Loos gauge, e.g. top crew weight of 475 pounds, scale 18; to crew weights less than 430 pounds, scale 10. For Fisher's main, set your diamonds at approximately 6 - 14 - 9 (not pounds and measuring from bottom to top). The lighter the crew weights, the lighter the tension on the top diamonds. Set the top diamond at 4 or less when sailing below 430 pounds in crew weight. On wood masts the diamond tension should be slightly less than the standard aluminum mast because of possible compression problems that could develop from excessive tension. Never tension any of the diamonds on a wood mast to more than 16. On the older, stiffer, gold aluminum masts the diamond tension should be considerably looser to allow the mast to bend as easily as possible. You should drop the tension on all the diamonds approximately 6 numbers from top to bottom. While the Thistle mast looks fairly complicated with three sets of diamonds, these adjustments listed above will make it fairly easy to properly tune your mast to your mainsail for all crew weights and all wind velocities. If you have any questions about the proper bend in your mast, please don't hesitate to call us. (Note: Refer to conversion chart under Loos Gauge section for new Pro Gauge.) Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 Section V - Thistles Page 5.10 Updated 2/6/05 MAST STEP/MAST BUTT Position your mast butt casting so that the mast will be positioned at the minimum "J" —or 4' 9" measured from the forestay to the front of the mast on an aluminum mast or 4' 8 1/2'' measured from the forestay to the front of the wood mast. Position the mast on the step so that it is even fore and aft. In other words, the mast butt does not stride out over the front or back of the mast step. We have found that it works well to have the step positioned at minimum "J" dimension when the mast is set squarely on the step. The mast should rest on the mast step in such a way that it has nearly 1/2'' of positive prebend when the rig is properly tensioned (we'll discuss this later). Measure prebend by pulling the main halyard down all the way to the gooseneck so that the wire is up against the back of the mast. You will notice the prebend as the gap between your main halyard wire and the mast as it bends forward. There should be a slight gap between the casting on the mast and the casting on the grating at the forward edge. The gap at the front allows the mast to start bending easily because it is rocking on the central axis of the mast. If the mast prebends more than 1" (forward at the middle, aft at the head) shim the front of the step between the step and the grating. This is better than putting thickness (coins, stainless tangs, etc.) between the casting on the mast and the casting on the grating because it still allows the mast to remain flexible. It is important that the mast butt casting be securely fastened to the bottom of the mast. Any slop whatsoever can greatly affect the mast's ability to bend properly. A quick check to verify if the mast is set up properly is to push the mast forward from behind, halfway between the spinnaker pole eye and the lower diamonds. If the mast feels stiff or it's bend restricted, most likely the mast butt is not set up well. A telltale sign that the mast is bending correctly is that when all the crew weight is positioned on the weather rail (about 8 mph breeze) you will see the beginnings of overbend wrinkles in the mainsail running from the area of the lower diamond towards the clew of the main. In heavy winds (over 15 to 18 mph) or in flat water, these overbend wrinkles should be quite pronounced and should actually run back to the near the aft edge of the windows. If not, there's not enough mast bend achieved and you should double-check your mast butt and diamond tension. If they go past the aft end of the window, then you have too much pre-bend and should add another shim under the front of the mast step. RAKE Mast rake is measured by hooking a tape measure on the main halyard and hoisting it all the way to the top of the mast until the shackle just hits the sheave. The measurement point on the boat is located at the back edge of the bottom of the tiller hole (not the traveler). Adjust your shrouds and forestay so that your rake measurement (with the rig properly tensioned and the correct amount of pre-bend) is: 26' 11 1/2'' to 27' 1/2'' for Proctor's main and 26' 10" to 26' 11" for Fisher's main. The major consideration with both design mainsails is to maximize rake and still be able to get sufficient mainsheet tension for all conditions. The leech is long to get the boom lower. This is more aerodynamically efficient than having the boom higher. The rake mentioned above positions the rig for proper boat balance. On some boats, however, because the traveler or boom block arrangement is not set as low as ideal it may not be possible to develop enough mainsheet tension in heavy air. To check this, hold your boom up so that the mainsheet is block to block and measure to the 11' 11" point at the back of your boom. On most boats this should be just in front of your outhaul sheave. Again, with the halyard pulled to the top of Section V - Thistles Page 5.11 Updated 2/6/05 the mast, the measurement to the top of your boom should be: 26' 2" minimum for Proctor's main and 26' 0" for Fisher's main. If you can't get this, check to see if you can arrange your traveler or mainsheet blocks to get the number higher. Note: In order to allow sufficient sheeting with a long leech and rake, the mainsheet needs to be properly arranged at the end of the boom. Do not dead end the sheet on the bottom of the boom block, oftentimes this can reduce available main sheeting by nearly 6". Instead, run the mainsheet from the boom block through the block on the traveler from front to back and dead end it on the boom, behind the block. You can either tie the mainsheet to the same slider that the block is attached to, or preferably a whole separate slider or boom bail. You can even drill a hole in the bottom of the boom and tie a knot inside the boom. RIG TENSION For a 1/8", 1x19 wire forestay (which we suggest), tension your rig to the point where your Loos tension gauge reads: 30 to 35 (260 - 360 lbs) for Proctor's main and 28 to 32 (240 - 300 lbs) for Fisher's main. (Important: Measure the forestay, not the sidestays). For those boats still rigged with the smaller 3/32" forestay the reading should be 5 numbers lower. Too much rig tension will tend to increase prebend. Too little tension will tend to reduce it. (Note: Refer to conversion chart under Loos Gauge section for new Pro Gauge.) MAINSAIL Main halyard : The halyard should be pulled all the way up to allow for correct leech and luff tension. When hoisted, the top of the sail must pass the bottom of the sheave box. You may check your main halyard lock position with the mast down to be sure the shackle is tight against the sheave when fully hoisted. Stretch in the wire will allow it to come to the proper position when the sail is pulled up. In lighter winds you may experiment with using the lower ball which reduces the tension and allow wrinkles to develop from head to tack. An aid in hoisting the sail to the top, is to let the tack out of the tack pin and leave the outhaul looser. After the halyard is locked, pull the sail down with the cunningham to help take in the tack pin. The bolt rope is attached into the luff of your main sail under considerable tension which will help make the cunningham snap up when released. Some Thistlers like to feed the rope back into the groove below the sail entry slot on your mast. To do this you must put the rope in the lower groove before putting the boom on the gooseneck fitting. This will help the cunningham work better but can do harm to the sail if not treated properly. It you feed the rope into the groove below the entry, be sure to release the outhaul before you drop the mainsail. If the outhaul is on tight, you can easily tear the bolt rope away from the sail above the cunningham. Cunningham : The cunningham flattens the sail and moves the draft forward as it is tensioned. When underpowered, ease the cunningham and when overpowered pull it tighter. Generally it is better to leave the cunningham too loose than too tight. In light winds, if your main halyard is positioned Section V - Thistles Page 5.12 Updated 2/6/05 properly, there will be wrinkles all the way head to tack. Little or no cunningham will be required. In marginal hiking conditions the cunningham would be tensioned slightly so that the wrinkles will be limited to the lower half of the main. In heavier winds, pull the cunningham harder so that wrinkles are just barely showing in the lower one-third of the luff of your mainsail. Outhaul : The outhaul adjusts the depth in the lower part of your mainsail. As the outhaul is eased, the shelf on the bottom of the sail opens and the seam that attaches it to the sail moves away from the boom. To gauge outhaul tension, judge the distance from the seam to the side of the boom at roughly the center of the mainsail foot. Proctor's main upwind In 4 to 8 knots of wind and medium chop the seam should be 4" to 5" from the boom. In smooth water 3"; when fully hiked 1". When overpowered and you're dropping the traveler to leeward, pull the outhaul as hard as possible --until the clew slug hits the stop at the end of the boom. Fisher's main upwind The outhaul will be pulled tight enough so that there is just a 2" gap between the side of the boom and the shelf foot seam in the middle of the foot. In breezes above 10 - 12 mph when the boat becomes overpowered the outhaul will be pulled tighter until the seam is pulled up snug against the side of the boom (maximum outhaul). When reaching, to find the most eased position, ease off the outhaul just before vertical wrinkles appear running across the seam perpendicular to the foot into the body of the sail. Tighten your outhaul until the wrinkles are just removed. When overpowered on a reach, with the spinnaker, leave the outhaul set as you had it upwind. For downwind sailing, also leave your outhaul in the upwind tensioned position for maximum projected area. Mainsheet : The mainsheet controls the powerful upper leech of your mainsail. It is the single most important adjustment. Therefore you must judge proper mainsheet trim by two factors: angle of the top two battens and feel. In ideal pointing and boat speed conditions, the top batten will be angled considerably to windward of parallel to the boom (nearly 15 degrees). It is not unusual that the upper batten telltale will be stalled most of the time when the sail is trimmed properly when sailing upwind. In most sailing conditions the mainsheet (and/or the traveler) should be played all the time in order to gain top speed and pointing ability. A good rule is as long as the boat feels good and is going fast, keep pulling the sheet harder. More mainsheet tension usually relates to higher speed and pointing but the sail becomes easier to stall. When the boat starts to feel slow, it's correct to ease the sheet, but for waves, try to anticipate and ease the sheet before you hit them. In heavy wind be careful not to overtrim. If the mainsheet is trimmed too tight the boat will develop a great deal of weather helm and become more difficult to steer. In very light winds, where the weight of the boom hangs on the leech and hooks the top batten greatly to windward of parallel to the boom, ease the mainsheet so that the end of the boom is nearly over the corner of the transom. You may experiment with pulling the traveler to weather (but not Section V - Thistles Page 5.13 Updated 2/6/05 farther than the windward edge of the tiller hole) which will help allow the boom to rise slightly easier and the upper leech to open up quicker when the velocity increases. Traveler : As mentioned above, in light winds and when you will not be tacking a great deal, some Thistlers have experimented with pulling the traveler to windward, but you should do this only if you have the proper rake, 6" is the absolute maximum, 2" to 3" is normal. Never pull the traveler to weather where the boom is actually positioned to windward of centerline. In moderate conditions (8-10 knots) you can keep the boat in the groove with the crew hiking with a little help from playing the traveler. In this condition, at times the traveler may be pulled slightly to windward but, again, never enough to position the boom to windward of centerline. The goal is that your helm should always be balanced (nearly neutral). With lighter crew weights it may not be unusual for the traveler to end up a few inches to leeward of centerline in winds even as low as 8 mph to maintain a balanced helm. In heavy winds (above 15 mph) the Thistle will perform best with the traveler nearly completely to leeward and the mainsheet trimmed quite hard, your mainsheet controls bending the mast. As the sheet is eased the mast will straighten up and the main will, therefore, become fuller. In extremely heavy winds (above 20 mph) you may experiment with pulling the traveler up slightly and easing the sheet to allow the top of the main to angle outboard slightly. Pulling the boom vang on quite hard can also help in these breezy, puffy conditions upwind. Just be sure to ease it before you round the weather mark! Boom Vang : The vang is primarily used downwind to help keep the upper batten parallel to the boom (telltale flowing off the top batten). A common mistake in light to medium conditions is to overvang and tighten the leech too much. In puffy conditions when reaching, the vang is often dumped to help keep the end of the boom from hitting the water and creating a disaster! Upwind, in puffy, shifty conditions, often times the boom vang is pulled on tight enough so that when the sheet is eased the boom will only move upwards slightly and will allow the mainsheet to act more like a traveler. Be careful of applying too much vang upwind as it could easily bend the boom and depower the mainsail (or break the boom!). JIB Proctor's jib is the fuller of the two sails and has a relatively fuller entry to add power and to facilitate steering in difficult conditions. Fisher's jib, is the flatter of the two, but still has a full entry. This allows the sail to point effectively, indicated by the windward telltales lifting. On both jibs, at the lower end of your steering groove (when you are looking to accelerate) the windward and leeward telltales should both stream straight aft. In the middle of you groove, the windward telltales should lift indicating a stall. At the "top end" of your groove (when in a high pointing mode) both telltales will lift and oftentimes the luff of you jib will actually break. Lead position : Section V - Thistles Page 5.14 Updated 2/6/05 For Proctor's jib, measure from the forestay back over the grating to where the sheet, if extended through your lead, would intersect the thwart. This measurement should be 108 1/2". Remember, if your rake is farther forward than suggested then your lead will have to be set slightly farther aft. With Fisher's jib, use the trim line that is drawn on the clew jib. This pen line runs from the clew grommet directly out into the body of the sail. When your lead is set properly, your jib sheet should be a direct extension of this line. You should find that on most Great Midwest Boats the lead will be nearly at the forward edge of the thwart. In heavy wind, move your lead aft 1" of the sheet extension to the trim line position. On both jibs, the lead should be set at 16" - 17" from centerline. Jib sheet trim : For Proctor's jib, trim the jib sheet so that the leeward side of the jib at the bottom is just barely touching the rail about 2' aft of the bow. With the foot set this way, the distance between the end of the spreader and the leech of the sail should be 1 1/2 to 2" depending on the length of the spreaders. If while the bottom of the jib is just barely touching the rail the distance of your jib from the spreader is more than 2", move your jib lead slightly forward. If the leech of the jib is closer to the spreader move the lead aft. For Fisher's jib in medium winds and flat seas, we suggest trimming so that the leech of your jib is 1" off the spreader at the middle diamond. In very heavy winds and very light winds, ease the sheet so that the leech of the jib is nearly 2" to 3" off the spreader. Do not be surprised to find that the leeward side of the jib at the bottom lies inside the rail approximately 2" to 3" at its middle. Fisher's jib is flatter at the bottom so that the sail will lay inside the rail when trimmed properly, and it will just touch the rail when eased for power to accelerate. For both jibs, remember to ease the sheet quickly if the boat needs power after tacking, before hitting a series of waves, or after a large header. Ease the jib out to nearly 3" to 4" off the spreader. Note: we have found that in many cases there are wide variances in spreader lengths. Of course, this would make it very difficult to use the spreader as a guide in trimming your jib, We are assuming 9 1/2 spreaders (positioning Fisher's jib at 10 1/2" and Proctor's jib at 11" - 11 1/2"). Some Thistlers have put a mark that is the same distance inside the spreader tip that you want to trim outside. Jib halyard : On both jibs, tension the halyard so that there are always slight horizontal wrinkles off of each snap tab. This is especially important in light to medium winds, while in heavier breezes the halyard is pulled tight enough so that the wrinkles are nearly removed. The wire in the jib luff is usually slack unless it is blowing very, very hard. In fact, the only reason to have the wire in jib is that class specifications require it. Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 Section V - Thistles Page 5.15 Updated 2/6/05 GYBING THE THISTLE IN HEAVY AIR by Greg Fisher (3784) as printed in the Feb/March, 1988 issue of the Bagpipe Gybing the Thistle in heavy air with the spinnaker up requires careful crew and skipper coordination and precise steering. Timing is critical, and only comes from a great deal of practice. There is just no substitute. Although it is ideal to practice heavy air gybes in heavy air, a great deal can be learned by going out in any wind velocity and going through the steps necessary to survive a heavy air gybe. Let's go through some of these steps. Let's assume that we're sailing a Thistle in a 15-20 mph breeze. 1. On the reach before the gybe. Forward crew balances the boat, calls the puffs, and watches competition. His job is to be sure the boat is all cleaned up before the gybe so there will be no confusion or jammed lines. Middle crew flies the chute only. The skipper trims the main, and always steers for the mark unless he is sailing high for defense against the faster boat to windward at the forward crew's suggestion. He is very careful to steer the boat well in the waves, and constantly communicate with the middle crew on the spinnaker. 2. Sailing into the gybe. Forward crew hands the old guy/new sheet to the middle crew. He then reaches up and knocks the old guy from the guy hook. The middle crew grabs the old guy/new sheet, takes up the slack, and begins to square the chute as the skipper bears off. He is always very careful to keep the spinnaker filled and not pull the guy back too quickly in relation to how quickly he eases the sheet out as well as the skipper's speed of bearing off the boat towards the gybe. The skipper overturns the main slightly and begins slowly bearing off toward a dead downwind position. 3. The Gybe. A. The forward crew reaches up on the windward side, legs braced against the grating, and knocks the pole off the guy and the mast. The pole is left hanging free on the topping lift. The middle crew moves in toward the middle of the boat, nearly straddling the trunk, holding the sheet and the guy, always watching the spinnaker trim. The skipper moves from the windward rail to the seat and continues to slowly bear off. B. The forward crew comes back inside the boat from his position to windward where he released the pole from the guy and the sheet, and balances the boat. The middle crew moves across the boat to the new windward seat or the rail if necessary, and concentrates on the spinnaker, always keeping it full. He is always ready to dump the sheet if necessary to keep the boat upright, but never dumps the guy. If the guy ever gets away from the middle crew, he should quickly let the sheet go. If the chute doesn't immediately begin luffing, he should "quickly" grab the spinnaker halyard and uncleat it and let the spinnaker down. The chute will drop right in the water and probably stop the boat; however, this is a better alternative than allowing both the sheet and the guy to go tight with the spinnaker filled way far away from the boat. This is a sure way to turn over the Thistle in a short time. The skipper bears off very hard, and ducks as the boom crashes overhead, and quickly sits on the windward rail. C. Forward crew, after being sure the boat is in balance through the gybe, reaches up and grabs the new guy, hooks the pole on the new guy and the mast. He takes the new guy from the middle crew Section V - Thistles Page 5.16 Updated 2/6/05 and hooks it in the guy hook and cleat at the shroud. And hikes! (It is critical that the forward crew is sure the boat is in balance and the skipper has the boat under control before he gets far enough forward to reach the pole to put it on the guy and mast.) Section V - Thistles Page 5.17 Updated 2/6/05 Middle crew releases the new guy after the forward crew has cleated it, and concentrates on the spinnaker sheet. Skipper "rebears" off, completing "the S turn," easing the mainsheet if necessary. ("The S turn" is very important in completing the Thistle gybe, as the boat has a tendency to continue rounding up into the wind after a gybe. The centrifugal force wants to drag the mast down to leeward and turn the boat over even quicker. The skipper must bear off hard to counteract the centrifugal force and continue sailing the boat under the spinnaker.) In addition to excellent crew work in the boat, certain boat tuning ideas will also help make the gybes go easier. First, it is important that the board is pulled up at least 3/4 of the way going into a heavy air gybe. The length of the board on a Thistle is relatively long in relation to other boats of the Thistle's size, and for that reason the Thistle has a tendency to "trip" over the board if it's not up high enough. It's almost better to have the board up high enough that the boat will actually slide through the gybe instead of tending to turn sharply and pivot on the board's axis. It's also good to be sure to have the vang in an easy place to get to quickly if the boom hits the water during the gybe. A quick hand releasing the vang can pop the end of the boom right out of the water and allow the boat to recover. On a heavy air reach I will actually have my forward crew play the vang through the puffs to keep the boat balanced. Of course, ratchet blocks make the middle crew's job of holding the spinnaker much easier and therefore reduces the chance of the guy getting away right in the middle of the gybe due to the middle crew's inability to hold onto the guy. Adequate guy hooks and cleats are a must, as a fly-away guy anytime on a heavy air reach or gybe in a Thistle will always result in a capsize. If you are planning on replacing your spinnaker sheets, you may consider choosing either Kevlar or spectra sheets which will greatly help minimize stretch. Stretch is a big culprit in pole breakage as the guy stretches and the pole bends around the forestay. Kevlar and spectra sheets really aren't that much more expensive than standard Dacron and in the long run may very well prove more durable. Often it is a natural tendency for the crew to muscle the boom over from the old leeward side to the new leeward side. However, I strongly urge that you let the boom crash over by itself. This way the skipper will know exactly when the boat is about to gybe. On our boat I watch the top of the mainsail, and when the upper batten begins to curl back I know it's time to really push the boat very hard around through the gybe and then start my S turn. If the crew pushes the gybe prematurely it will always throw off the skipper's timing and can be very dangerous. Also it is important that the skipper be sure that the boat is sailing at top speed before he attempts to gybe. When the boat is slowed down as in punching a wave, falling off a plane, etc. the wind pressure on the sails is the greatest and makes it very hard to turn the boat. The centrifugal force talked about earlier can really become a problem. Get the boat going fast before you gybe! If the middle crew is not quite strong enough to take both the sheet and the guy through the gybe, sometimes the skipper can help by grabbing the new guy as the boat comes out of the gybe. Obviously, it is much more difficult to trim the guy properly when two people are holding onto it, but at least it is assured that the guy will not get away. However, it is best if possible for the middle crew to take both the sheet and the guy, since he can adjust both clews of the spinnaker continuously for a much smoother gybe. The most important thing that will always guarantee an excellent gybe in heavy air is practice. Practice does make perfect, and there is absolutely no substitute. Get your crew together and go out, no matter how hard it's blowing, and run through gybe after gybe until you're confident in your technique. See you at the gybe mark! Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010 Section V - Thistles Page 5.18 Updated 2/6/05
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List of Fellows of the Royal Society elected in 1671
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This is a list of Fellows of the Royal Society elected in its 12th year, 1671.[1]
- Nehemiah Grew (1641-1712)
- Martin Lister (1639-1712)
- Sir Philip Matthews (1642-1685)
- Sir Robert Reading (1640-1689)
- Sir John Williams (1642-1680)
- ^ "Fellows of the Royal Society", Royal Society. "Fellowship from 1660 onwards" (xlsx file on Google Docs via the Royal Society)


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I'm a Christian and fully endorse today's ruling. God loves all his children. #LoveWins
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No one understands more about Brand Advocates than Rob Fuggetta.
Author of Brand Advocates: Turning Enthusiastic Customers into a Powerful Marketing Force (Wiley), Founder/CEO Zuberance. Tennis Player, Wine Lover, Proud Dad


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Featured Posts
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loved the book. Gave it to my gardening friends who enjoyed it also. Lots of homespun information....
Trowel & Error: Over 700 Shortcuts, Tips & Remedies for the Gardener (Paperback)
Cure plant viruses with spoiled milk. Steep a natural and effective insecticide out of fresh basil. Place flat stones under squash or melons to hasten ripening. Recycle an old apple corer as the perfect dibber for muscari and other small bulbs. Start rosemary cuttings in a green glass bottle. Sprinkle baby powder over seedlings to discourage rabbits. Crush a garlic clove and apply it to your skin as an insect repellent. From urging the reader to take an occasional shower with the houseplants to giving all-natural gardenside first aid, Trowel and Error is a direct line to the kind of practical wisdom that comes only after a lifetime of experience. The book is indexed by problem, plant, pest, and solution, and includes a list of tools and common household items--borax, cornmeal, vinegar--that completes the gardener's arsenal.
|GARDENING / Reference
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love the title
loved the book. Gave it to my gardening friends who enjoyed it also. Lots of homespun information.Read More
Wonderful Gift for the Gardener
I love this book. It is full of short tips and ideas of how to use ordinary things in the garden. You don't have to run out and buy expensive and poisonius slug bait- just put out a saucer of beer (really works, I use this all the time now). I enjoy my copy so much that instead of lending it out I give them as gifts.Read More
Tons of Great Info
Cute illustrations, quotes, tips & tricks and tons of new info supported by real world knowledge and university studies. Lots of quick tips and clever ideas . . . not a lot of yakking.Read More
fun and helpful
I bought this book for my mom who is an avid gardener and she loves it. She says that the information is very helpful and easy to follow with lots of good gardening tips.Read More
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text:
Beale Black & Blue: Life and Music on Black America's Main Street
Beale Black & Blue is about the history of Beale Street in Memphis, Tennessee and of the musicians like W.C. Handy, Booker White, Lillie May Glover, B.B. King, Bobby Blue Bland, Muddy Waters, and even Elvis Presley, who made its name synonymous with the blues.
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