text:
ULTRATRAVEL Winter 2012
The Daily Telegraph's luxury travel magazine
ultratravel The Daily Telegraph YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON EARTH WINTER 2012 On the road toski freedom Snow safaris THE WORLD'S BEST BEACH VILLAS WHY EMPTINESS IS THE NEW LUXURY THE MALDIVES: 40 YEARS OF PARADISE + TRAVEL IN STYLE z BEAUTY z FASHION z TECHNOLOGY z WATCHES bai Bkc Sofitel Mum e of French eleganc izing the glamour C, BK Perfectly harmon ai mb fitel Mu ersity of India, So and the exotic div the new city. of t ar he e th y in luxury hospitalit (East) Maharashtra la Complex Bandra C 57, BANDRA Kur 1)226 117 5000 (+9 .: TEL IA IND 400 051 MUMBAI er all our magnifique Mumbai, Paris, Abu Dhabi, Los Angeles, Bangkok… Discover addresses around the world on www.sofitel.com Cliffhanger The Edge, a private villa in Bali (page 26) 20 57 Features CONTENTS 26 The world's best beach villas In our Ultratravel top 10, we name the finest homes from home – from Mustique to Mexico – where privacy and comfort are guaranteed 34 Paradise turns 40 Since 1972, when the first tourists set foot on the pristine sands of the Maldives, the Indian Ocean islands have come a long way, says Adrian Neville 40 Ski safaris Instead of staying in a resort, rent a car and follow the snow. We pick five fabulous road trips, in California, British Columbia, the Dolomites, Japan and Switzerland 48 The quest for nothingness Michelle Jana Chan relishes the wild expanses of Namibia's desert and Bolivia's salt flats, which provide the rare luxury of solitude Regulars 9 Editor's letter Space, silence, privacy and the freedom to roam are among life's greatest pleasures, as the stories in this winter issue show 11 Next big thing News, trends, events and phenomena from around the world, compiled by Adriaane Pielou 15 Ultra accessories Four pages of advice from our experts – on beauty, watches, fashion and gadgets 22 Victoria's secrets Flying by private jet to Paris with an aviation blue-blood thrills Victoria Mather 57 Countdown to… Shanghai. Malcolm Moore, the Telegraph's China correspondent, finds an arty, glamorous city with a flourishing culinary scene 61 Ultra intelligence A Bollywood fantasy in London; Turkish delight as an art form; and why the high-street travel shop is making a comeback 66 Travelling life Livia Firth names her favourite haunts, from a camp in the Masai Mara to a boutique in Amsterdam 16 LCKI8KI8M<C 27 48 MICHAEL POLIZA; ALAMY © Telegraph Media Group Limited 2012. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited. Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited Secluded beaches of golden sand, Thai massages at a roofop spa, sipping champagne in a rose petal bath, and a meal on a private beach. Get special extra content with the Aurasma Lite app by pointing your device to this image. Requested by Joanna... Crafed by For expert advice and to book, visit your local store or kuoni.co.uk For a brochure, call 08 44 557 3777 EDITOR'S LETTER F LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL ive days. Four if I'm lucky. That is the time it usually takes me to switch off on holiday, leaving only a small window in which to wind down before contemplating my return to the real world. Too often, though, we never really leave it. A friend of mine recently quipped that he was so tied to the office on a week-long break in Mauritius, he felt like God during the Creation: "On the seventh day I rested, because all my work was done." Holy grail The private path to the beach from a land villa at the Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa Only a corporate lawyer would compare himself to God like that – but he had a point. So umbilically attached are we to the workplace via technology, switching off – literally and metaphorically – is rare. Glance around the restaurant, pool or beach bar and everyone is at it: tapping, swiping and surfing their way through a hard-earned break. In the Crackberry age, we can tweet from Everest, send in-flight emails and stream video while skydiving from space. Psychiatrists have diagnosed people with IAD (iPhone addiction disorder). Salvation awaits in this issue of Ultratravel. Here, our writers provide real reasons to switch off and catalysts that can accelerate the winding-down process. For Victoria Mather, a "PJ" (private jet) is the mode of transport that can ease the stresses of working life long before travellers reach their destination. For Adrian Neville in the Maldives, the simplicity of a lagoon and an encircling beach provides succour even after 40 years of hotel development. If privacy is your balm, consider one of the world's best villas, chosen by our experts – the perfect environment in which to turn up, switch off and tune out. With all this focus on the destination and the swiftest access to it, the joy of the journey can be lost. Hence our two stories about road trips, a byword for freedom. First, we take you on a series of snow safaris through some of the best ski terrain on Earth, before joining Michelle Jana Chan on her epic journey across the deserts of Namibia and the salt flats of Bolivia. Emptiness. Space. Time. In the world of modern travel, these are the ultimate luxuries. Editor INTRODUCING OUR EXPERTS Michelle Jana Chan The writer, television presenter and global nomad (Czech mother, Chinese father, American schooling) was perfectly placed, as our adventure expert, to explore two of the world's last vast, wild, open spaces – the Namibian desert and the salt flats of southern Bolivia Photographer JOE PLIMMER Ferrari FF photographed at Adelboden, Switzerland, with thanks to Adelboden Tourism. Skis Zai Testa, 150cm, from Hari Sport, Adelboden. Simon de Burton Why would a wristwatch have a million-dollar price tag? Our expert on all things horological, who worked at Sotheby's with the late, great watchmaker Dr George Daniels, has the answer – it's to do with astonishing feats of micro-engineering Belinda White Recent assignments for the Telegraph's online fashion editor include reporting on a lawsuit about the dress code of a private-jet crew and revealing why sales of Hunter wellingtons are soaring. In our pages, she talks intelligent packing Mark Wilson Our new gadgets guru is the features editor of Stuff. So what does he always take on his travels? "My Olympus E-P3, as it makes me look a far better photographer than I am." Here he reveals which innovations have caught his eye this season Kate Shapland The award-winning beauty writer has a weekly column in Telegraph Magazine, covering everything from perfecting the Andy Warhol look to commissioning a bespoke fragrance. In this issue, she prescribes make-up for the mountains Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Managing editor Andrew Purvis Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Sub-editor Yolanda Carslaw Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor Adriaane Pielou Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3239 (Fran Burns) Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT ultratravel LCKI8KI8M<C There's more Than one Waldorf asToria. e a c h o n e T h e g r e aT e s T o f T h e m a l l n e W Yo r K | lo n d o n s Yo n Pa r K | c h i c ag o | B e r l i n * | r o m e c aVa l i e r i | a r i Zo n a B i lT m o r e l a Q U i n Ta r e s o r T & c lU B | T h e B o U l d e r s | T h e r o o s e V e lT n e W o r l e a n s | P U e r To r i co | m aU i s h a n g h a i | B e i J i n g * | o r l a n d o | B o c a r aTo n | K e Y W e s T | n a P l e s | Pa n a m a* | Pa r K c i T Y T h e c a l e d o n i a n | Q a s r a l s h a r Q | r a s a l K h a i m a h * | J e r U s a l e m * | T r i a n o n Pa l ac e V e r s a i l l e s Wa l d o r fa s To r i a . c o m *future openings © 2012 hilton Worldwide the NEXT BIG THING COMPILED BY ADRIAANE PIELOU Futuristic The Water Discus hotel, proposed for Dubai Upcoming events, trends, ideas, phenomena and large sub-aquatic structures from the world of luxury travel F z UNDERWATER: THE NEW OVERWATER irst it was water villas in the Maldives (see page 34), allowing guests a glimpse of reef life from above the surface. Now, hoteliers seem hellbent on luring us beneath the waves. Star Trek meets The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau in this computer-generated image of the Water Discus hotel (above), scheduled to open in Dubai with backing from a Swiss company. Designed by Deep Ocean Technology (deep-ocean-technology.com), its 21 suites will be housed in two main discs – one above water, one below – and facilities include a bar and a dive centre. While the scale is new, the concept isn't. The one-room Utter Inn (unusualhotelsoftheworld.com/utterinn) already exists on Lake Mälaren, Sweden, as does the three-room Jules' Undersea Lodge (jul.com) off Key Largo, Florida. However, it is in the Maldives that the genre comes into its own. Huvafen Fushi has an underwater spa, Conrad Maldives Rangali Island an underwater restaurant and Niyama an underwater nightclub. And what better way to cruise between sub-aquatic destinations than in a private submarine? The DeepFlight Super Falcon (deepflight.com), "Learjet of the deep", is currently being tested on an expedition led by Tom Perkins, the man behind the 290ft megayacht Maltese Falcoln. Operating at depths of up to 36,000ft, it costs $1.6 million (£990,000). Deep sleep A suite at the planned Water Discus hotel, where the view takes in the reef 35ft below the surface LCKI8KI8M<C DEEP OCEAN TECHNOLOGY z THE SUPERCHALET A crackling log fire, a reindeer-skin rug and a mug of hot chocolate after a hard day on the slopes just don't cut it any more. What today's chalet-dwellers want, apparently, is steam rooms, cinemas, nightclubs, wine cellars, cigar rooms, swimming pools and even squash courts. In Zermatt, the ski-in, ski-out Chalet White Pearl has a pool, hammam, hot tub and massage table, plus a cinema room with a high-quality sound system, while the Heinz Julen Loft (left) is a symphony of glass and steel (020 8870 3339, summitretreats.com). The six-bedroom Chalet Marco Polo in Val d'Isère has a heated indoor pool with projector screen, a hot tub and a wine cellar – similarly priced, at £22,500 a week, to Shemshak Lodge in Courchevel 1850 (0845 618 2205, akvillas. com). In Courchevel Le Praz, the four-bedroom La Folie Blanche has a pool and squash court (00 33 4 7900 5942, alpleisure.com). Elsewhere, Swish Swiss The Heinz Julen Loft in Zermatt only Bighorn (020 3432 0726, bighornrevel stoke.com) in Revelstoke, Canada, with a private heli-pad, rivals Europe's superchalets. the NEXT BIG THING z A NEW CHAPTER FOR BOOKS Even in the Kindle era, few travel experiences beat the discovery of a truly well-stocked library. The poor offering in most hotels, villas and chalets prompted the bookseller Philip Blackwell tentatively to launch his Ultimate Library. Would there be a market for a large, carefully curated collection of outstanding new fiction, plus classics, photographic tomes and extra-large-format special editions, hand-picked for each location? There was – and Ultimate Library collections can now be found at properties ranging from the Montpellier Chapter boutique hotel in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, to the InterContinental Singapore and Soneva Fushi in the Maldives. Holidays, after all, are the only time many people have to read. (ultimatelibrary.co.uk). . z A MOUNTAIN OF YOUR OWN This winter, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa, Switzerland, takes exclusivity to new heights with its first "Private Mountain" experience. Skiers and snowboarders staying at the hotel from November 29 to December 2, 2012, will have not only the enticingly empty slopes to themselves, but also the Tschuggen Express (above), the hotel's own mountain railway; they will also be able to book private lessons with a ski instructor. It's a great way to take advantage of the spa and other facilities before the crowds descend after December 1, when the ski season officially begins. Wait until after Christmas, as many people do, and the place will be busier. The three-night stay, excluding travel, costs from £575 (0041 81 378 9999, tschuggen.ch). z JAMAICAN REVIVAL Next Easter, two new additions to the Geejam Collection (geejam collection.com) will bring a touch z HEALTH-GIVING HOTELS of retro glamour to Port Antonio, on Jamaica's north-east coast. The historic Trident Hotel and the neighbouring Trident Castle (left) are set to reopen after a long refurbishment. Port Antonio (below left) is where Errol Flynn built his house, the scene of rip-roaring parties in the 1930s and 40s – and where Ian Fleming, Noël Coward and Liz Taylor kept the drinks flowing through the 50s, 60s and 70s. In recent years, the six-room Geejam hotel has been the only five-star spot to stay in the area. Its proprietors – who also own the recording studio used by the late Amy Winehouse – are the people behind the Trident revival. GETTY; ALAMY Lest gyms, spas and yoga sessions are not enough, the MGM Grand Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas has designated 41 of its 5,044 rooms "Stay Well", meaning they may improve your health. Novelties include showers infused with vitamin C (which neutralises chlorine), blue-shaded lighting (said to increase energy levels and reverse the effects of jet lag), purified tap water, hypoallergenic cleaning products and an advanced ventilation system that purifies the air. It's all very commendable – but it does make one wonder about the remaining 5,003 rooms in the megahotel. LCKI8KI8M<C SEE T H E wO R L D f ROM A D I f f E R E N T p E R S p E C T I V E . P R I VAT E LY C H A R T E R E D j E T TO U R S . S i m p ly t h e f i n e S t way t o S e e t h e w o r l d Imagine you had the luxury of a private plane and could fly in style to places you've always wanted to visit, freed from the constraints of scheduled transport. That's the premise behind The Captain's Choice privately Chartered jet Tours. This unique selection of inspired journeys lets you explore the world's most remote and exotic places in a style which would simply not be possible otherwise. You will travel in unparalleled luxury, staying at the finest hotels and enjoying gourmet dining, with every need taken care of by an experienced escort team that even includes a tour doctor. If you would like to find out more about escorted touring at its finest, contact us now. M ag i c of S o u t h a M e r i ca Rio de Janeiro | Iguassu Falls | The Falkland Islands | Puerto Varas | Bariloche and Patagonia's Lake District | Buenos Aires | Cuzco | Machu Picchu | Iquitos | Amazon River cruise| Bermuda 20 Days from £16,880pp S i l k r o u t e & B e yo n d Istanbul | Kashi | Samarkand | Bukhara | Urgench | Khiva | Yerevan, Armenia | Tbilisi, Georgia | Gori | Yalta | Sevastapol 16 Days from £16,695pp e q u ato r i a l e x p l o r e r Sydney | Papeete, Tahiti | Easter Island | Galapagos Islands cruise | Amazon River cruise | Peru | Iquitos | Panama Canal cruise | Panama City | Antigua, Guatemala | Havana, Cuba | The Azores 21 Days from £16,990pp Call 0845 304 7129 www.captainschoice.co.uk T H E L E A D E R I N L U X U R Y T R AV E L T O R E M O T E & E X O T I C D E S T I N AT I O N S KATE SHAPLAND, the Telegraph's ULTRAbeauty beauty editor, chooses make-up for the mountains 1 The toughest run-proof mascaras struggle to cling on against sunscreen. Anastasia Beverly Hills Lash Genius goes over regular mascara and acts like a raincoat to prevent it running. 2 Winter is a time for simple, no-make-up make-up, and Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge was made for it. This lip and cheek cream comes in such transparent, believable shades that it can almost be applied without a mirror. 3 As the chill and wind chap the lips, the sun can bring on cold sores, so a protective balm is vital. Apply Clinique Targeted Protection Stick SPF35 with a fingertip, pressing it into your lips before adding colour. Put it on your ears, too. 4 Wear suncream with a protection factor of at least 30, with zinc, titanium dioxide or helioplex. Sisley Broad Spectrum Golden Facial Sunscreen SPF30 is tinted, so it also gives your skin a little colour. 5 After a day outdoors, use a free-radical neutraliser to aid recovery. Amanda Lacey Nourishing Pink Cream contains St John's wort and centella asiatica, which promotes elasticity. BEVA/FOLIO ID Snow queen " At high altitude, the skin looks and feels vital, but the environment is harmful to it. Because the air is thinner, there is less protection from radiation – so, while it can take 25 minutes to burn at sea level, at 11,000ft it can take as little as six. Over time, this causes premature wrinkling and pigmentation patches. Humidity drops with temperature, making lips prone to drying out. The aim is to find products that protect the face but leave little trace – and, like these, are small enough to be allowed in your hand luggage " From left: 1 Anastasia Beverly Hills Lash Genius £7.50 (cultbeauty.co.uk). 2 Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge £18 (bobbibrown.co.uk). 3 Clinique Targeted Protection Stick SPF35 £16 (clinique.co.uk). 4 Sisley SPF30 Golden Facial Sunscreen £93.50 (harrods.com). 5 Amanda Lacey Nourishing Pink Cream £75 (amandalacey.com). LCKI8KI8M<C Tiny, delicate parts and hours of manpower give 'haute horlogerie' its price tag, says SIMON DE BURTON ULTRAwatches The case comprises four different parts and measures 43.5mm in diameter. It is asymmetrical in order to accommodate the movement without having to resort to an overall larger diameter. The dial displays hours, minutes and seconds and incorporates a power reserve display, which indicates when the watch needs to be re-wound. When fully wound, the movement will run autonomously for around three days. The main feature of the watch is its quadruple tourbillon mechanism. It comprises two pairs of tourbillons, each with one inside the other. Each pair of tourbillons contains 128 components but weighs just 1.17g. The watch features three individual sapphire crystals, one of which is fitted into the back of the case and surrounded by a bezel that is hand punched and engraved in bas-relief, a process which takes five days to complete. The movement, which took five years to develop, contains 531 individual parts, each specifically designed for the watch. The polishing and decorating of the movement components alone requires 500 hours of work. Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon £685,000, in rose gold, from Marcus (020 7290 6500, marcuswatches.co.uk). The world's first quadruple tourbillon wristwatch. No more than six can be made each year, a rarity reflected in the price. Why is this watch worth $1,000,000? " High-end watchmakers thrive on achieving ever more mind-boggling feats of micro-engineering. They do this by creating 'complications', additions to a basic mechanism that endow it with different functions. The tourbillon, in which the regulating organ is contained within a tiny, rotating cage to counteract the effect of gravity, is considered the apotheosis of the horologist's art due to its complexity and delicacy. The more complicated a watch, the harder it is to make, meaning fewer are produced. In haute horlogerie, economy of scale does not apply – so prices must rise accordingly THREE MORE COMPLICATED CREATIONS Ulysse Nardin 'Circus' Minute Repeater £323,000 (020 8123 0313, ulysse-nardin. ch). Six figures, in 18-carat gold, are applied to this automaton minute repeater. When the minute repeater lever is activated, tiny mechanical gongs sound the hour and the monkey steals the ball from the clown; the tiger stretches its paw to indicate the minutes and the bear bows to the ballet dancer. Just 30 will be made. Patek Philippe Men's Perpetual Calendar 5496P £77,930, in platinum (020 7493 8866, patek.com). Patek Philippe pioneered the perpetual calendar wristwatch, making the first production model in 1941. The mechanism automatically accounts for leap years and short months, negating the need for the adjustment required by normal and annual calendar watches. " IWC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph £9,500 (0845 337 1868, iwc.com). The chronograph, or "stop watch", is hard to perfect in a wristwatch. This model features two seconds hands that can each be stopped to show intermediate or multiple elapsed times. The watch also features a small seconds display with 30-minute and 12-hour timers, day and date. LCKI8KI8M<C ULTRA fashion To pack cleverly for winter sun, all you need is a PHD, says BELINDA WHITE, theTelegraph's digital fashion editor One case fits all " Main picture Tri dress by Peter Pilotto; £580.50 (020 7235 5000, harveynichols.com). Kelly Dog bracelet in calfskin, by Hermès; £345 (020 7499 8856, hermes.com). Safari trolley case, 21in version, in ivory, by Globe-Trotter; £860 (020 7529 5950, globe-trotter.com). North South Maisie tote by Mulberry, in polished calfskin, in flame; £995 (020 7491 3900, mulberry.com). Sunglasses, from top Linda Farrow Luxe, in cream snakeskin; £449 (lindafarrow.co.uk; ref 38 C13). Dior Brillance Special Edition, in acetate, embellished with Swarovski crystals and pearls; price on application (01423 520303 for stockists). Alexander Wang by Linda Farrow, with bronze tips; £216 (as before; ref 1 C7). " PHOTGRAPHER: JOE PLIMMER; MODEL: JAZ AT NEXT; HAIR AND MAKE-UP: KRYSTLE GOHEL; STYLIST: BELINDA WHITE For most women, over-packing is as much of a holiday ritual as the preparatory pedicure, only more frustrating and a harder habit to break. Instead of emptying your entire summer wardrobe into your suitcase before setting off for sunny shores, pack smart. Seek out a perfect holiday dress (PHD) around which to build copious looks – think short, sleeveless and packing a hefty punch of print. This Peter Pilotto mini is a textbook PHD: equally at home over a bikini by the pool, with simple flat sandals, or with high heels and a lick of bright lipstick at cocktail hour. And with all the extra space in your case, just think how many pairs of shoes you can take! Oh dear... BEYOND EXPECTATION Finally drawing a line in the sand between business and leisure. With the help of a butler who specializes in poolside rituals, one of the many reasons why. stregis.com a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world's finest hotels & resorts. africa the americas asia europe the middle east ©2010–2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. ULTRAtech 1 2 3 1 Micro Luggage scooter £250 (00 41 44 910 1122, micro.ms). Perennially late air travellers might benefit from this hybrid of a Samsonite cabin case and a three-wheel, fold-out scooter, which has been officially approved as aircraft hand luggage. 2 Air Pro WiFi camcorder £299 (01782 753370, iontheaction.co.uk). This aerodynamic action cam, by Ion, has a Wi-Fi module that connects to a phone or tablet, allowing the user instantly to share 1,080p videos on the web. Waterproof to 33ft with no housing required, it lasts for seven hours on a single charge. 3 Beolit 12 speaker £599 (0118 927 7890, beoplay.com). This premium travel speaker, by B&O, has a tough aluminium grille and allows not just the owner, but friends with an iPhone, to play their music wirelessly, or via the USB or line-in ports. Its rechargeable battery lasts eight hours. 4 5 6 4 Alurunner sled £445 (00 49 69 9203 9977, alurunner.com). With its tubular aluminium frame and a seat made from "indestructible" Makrolon fabric, this sled is light but very robust. Steel-spring shock absorbers, a world first in sledding, soften the ride over bumps and jumps. 5 StabilEyes binoculars £1,356 (0330 123 0932, store.nikon.co.uk). These digitally stabilised 14x40 binoculars, by Nikon, are ideal for safaris and whale-watching. With both "land" and "on board" modes, their processor counteracts judder to provide steadiness even at 14x zoom. 6 BioLite CampStove £80 (biolitestove.com). A camping essential, this stove burns twigs and cones to cook meals and charge a mobile phone. Feed it 1.6oz of fuel and it boils two pints of water in less than five minutes. Twenty minutes of charging via a USB port gives an hour of talk time. Heading 7 LCKI8KI8M<C Wherever you are heading this winter, and by whatever means, take advice from our new gear and gadgets guru, MARK WILSON. Here, he chooses seven of the season's niftiest innovations Smart travel 7 Saietta motorbike From £11,970 (020 7278 2228, saietta.com). The world's most advanced electric superbike, made in Britain by Agility, travels 100 miles on just 45p-worth of electricity. It accelerates from 0-60mph in four seconds and comes in a choice of 11 colours. Carrier specialises in luxury tailor-made holidays worldwide. Service is personal, flexible and haute couture. Enjoy the benefits of our concierge service – ensuring every detail of your holiday is taken care of. Our new 2013 brochures are available to order now and include the latest stylish hotels in the most sought-after destinations. Tel: 0161 492 1371 Africa | Caribbean, Bermuda & Mexico Indian Subcontinent, Far East & Australasia USA, Canada & Mexico | Europe & North Africa Indian Ocean & Arabia | Luxury Ski & Snow www.carrier.co.uk The only turbulence on our Farnborough flight was a slight tremor of the Buck's Fizz over Calais With Erik Lindbergh, grandson of the 1920s aviator, Victoria Mather boards a private jet to Paris and feels very at home T here are two PJ lodestars in high-flying life: private jets and Peter Jones, the Sloane Square duchess of John Lewis. Both are comfort zones, the former a gilded treat that takes you up, up and away, wearing Louboutins; the latter very grounded, best attacked in sensible shoes. Although the tweeded bottom of the Peter Jones customer rarely touches the cream suede seats of the private jet, they have much in common. It is called standards. When travel is so despicable – the process, not the destination – the private jet is an inestimable treat from the moment the Mercedes limousine purrs up to your doorstep until it delivers you home, après PJ, together with your luggage (such a novelty). If you have flown on Ryanair – we all have, it's a badge of courage – this is as near to heaven as you are going to get since Concorde was decommissioned. I was purred to Farnborough airfield to be decanted into a hushed lounge – such a dire word, reminding me of Lady Carina Frost saying firmly to Sir David in Terminal 5: "Take me to the British Airways drawing room". On the wall above the espresso machine is a framed 2005 thank-you letter from Tony Blair to Sir Donald Spiers, chairman of Farnborough Aerospace Consortium: "I certainly hope to be able to make use of your excellent facilities again in the future". I bet he did. I was about to board a PJ to Paris with Erik Lindbergh, whose grandfather Charles was the first man to fly solo across the Atlantic in a single-propeller plane, the Spirit of St Louis, with no more nav, let alone sat, than a magnetic compass and an airspeed indicator. On May 20, 1927, he took off from Victoria's secrets Roosevelt Field, New York, and landed next day at Le Bourget, Paris, after 33 sleet- and snow-battered hours. He was greeted by a crowd of 100,000 people who carried him off his plane on their shoulders. Thankfully, we had steps. In 2002, to mark the 75th anniversary of his grandfather's great achievement, Erik Lindbergh replicated the flight. A sufferer from painful arthritis, he flew alone across the Atlantic, taking off from Republic Field, New York (Roosevelt Field has been turned into a shopping mall) and landing at Le Bourget, where our jet was heading now. "My plane was a modern version of the Spirit of St Louis but still driven by a single propeller," Erik Lindbergh told me. "The prime objective was to stay alive. I had a satellite phone to call Mom but after Newfoundland the signal went dead. Below me were icebergs. I thought about my grandfather then, alone in the unknown." The grandson landed in Le Bourget 17 hours and seven minutes after take-off, defying turbulence and thunderstorms. The most we had on our Farnborough flight was a slight tremor of the Buck's Fizz over Calais. Erik has a calling card – the new Lindbergh Card, only £50,000 to you, madam. Never knowingly undersold, a posh Oyster card. It solves all those little problems of jet ownership: no parking fees keeping it in the hangar, no it's-always-in-the-wrong-continent. Erik Lindbergh has chummed up with Air Charter Service, which has aeroplanes of every size and every colour, for all I know, all over the world. While NetJets is timeshare private jetting, the Lindbergh Card is bespoke. Your favourite wine, mags, books, down pillows, films and dog beds will be on board. VIP dog care, that's proper standards. Your money goes into a named trust account and is not used as operating capital. Missed the last commercial plane for that meeting in Seattle? Bored with playing blackjack in Las Vegas, let's go to Hawaii? At the ping of an email from your iPhone – no paperwork, all done by your PJ PA – a plane, any plane your heart desires, will be throbbing on the runway. All this may seem pie in the sky for the earthbound, whose fantasy extends no further than Sleazyjet priority boarding. Yet look at the entry price: £50,000. That's relatively down-to-earth. It still pays for a lot of helicopters beating the traffic from Manhattan to the Hamptons (cooler than the Jitney coach); for a lot of racecourses being visited by trainers, jockeys and punters; and, according to Chris Leach of Air Charter Service, for several trips by British builders to suss out properties in France. This is the workaday PJ, as opposed to the glittering tip of the pyramid occupied by celebrities and high-net-worth individuals. I stood with Erik Lindbergh on the plaque marking where his grandfather had landed. The $250-billion aviation industry began where X marks the spot. Before that flight, aviators were buccaneer daredevils; afterwards came pilots and passengers. For Erik, now aged 47, the sky isn't the limit. "I want to explore space and look back and see our planet," he said. Call me old-fashioned, but I'm going to explore Peter Jones. LCKI8KI8M<C JASON FORD Q U E E N M A RY 2 t R A N s At l A N t i c book with coNfidENcE with oUR pRicE pRoMisE Queen Mary 2, southampton to New York, the quintessential transatlantic crossing. A voyage steeped in history and tradition, a holiday where you can indulge in seven nights of exquisite dining and world class entertainment, all of which is delivered with our legendary white star service. And with our Vantage fares, booking early guarantees you a host of superb benefits including the reassurance of our price promise. secure your place now and start planning your transatlantic trip of a lifetime. Eastbound New York to Southampton WESTbound Southampton to New York Roundtrip Transatlantic Southampton • New York • Southampton FROM £1,309 including flight 3 May 2013 FROM £1,329 including flight 25 May 2013 FROM £1,779 25 May 2013 Vantage Fares also include coMpliMENtARY pARkiNg oR oN boARd cREdit to book, or for a brochure, visit cunard.co.uk/ultra or call cunard Reservations on 0843 373 4081 Alternatively contact your travel Agent THE MOST FAMOUS OCEAN LINERS IN THE WORLD Fares shown are subject to availability and are per person based on two adults sharing the lowest grade stateroom available within the applicable stateroom type. For full terms and conditions please refer to the Cunard Price Promise inserts, published July 2012, which can be found within the Cunard Voyages brochure April 2013 - January 2014. Further information can also be found on www.cunard.com. These inserts and accompanying brochures contain full descriptions of the voyages, stateroom accommodation and itinerary details, as well as important information on passport, visa and health requirements and booking conditions, which you must read before booking. ABTA No.V8764 The world's best beach villas No five-star hotel can match the privacy of a villa. Francesca Syz and Harriet O'Brien select the 10 most desirable holiday homes on earth, from a Mozambique lodge to a Spanish island hideaway ULTRATRAVEL TOP 10 FRANCE VILLA ATHINA ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT On the lovely tree-clad peninsula of Cap Ferrat, between Monaco and Nice, the old-time Riviera spirit lives on without glint or hint of bling. Villa Athina captures this mood beautifully, with a strikingly modernist design. With sweeping views across the eastern shore, this very private and stylish property is a white-walls-and-glass creation set in landscaped gardens. Although guests might be tempted to laze on the terrace beside the outdoor pool, the villa's architect-designed interiors are equally beguiling, constructed on several levels, with a hammam, a sauna, an indoor pool (heated, with a reverse current system) and a gym. A lift takes guests down to the wine cellar and up to the top-floor dining and sitting rooms, with 180-degree views, and the seven bedrooms feature bold design elements such as large, rococo-style mirrors. The cafes of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat are nearby, as are several sandy beaches. Yacht charter, helicopter rides and Formula 1 tickets can be arranged. Sleeps 14, in seven bedrooms. Price €5,700 (£4,600) per night, including the services of a maid, gardener and property manager. Contact Cedric Reversade and Paul Maxime Koskas at Unique Properties (020 7788 7815, uniquepropertiesandevents.com). LCKI8KI8M<C La vie est belle Villa Athina (main picture) at St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat; its secluded pool-with-a-view; and one of its seven lavishly furnished bedrooms LCKI8KI8M<C For a once in a lifetime experience, it's amazing how many people return. Beautiful unspoilt and uncrowded beaches, 5-star accommodation, fantastic haute cuisine, indulgent luxury spas, the best diving in the world – it's hardly surprising that so many visitors to the Cayman Islands return. The friendly welcome and feeling of freedom one experiences on the islands truly makes it the holiday of a lifetime (or should we say holidays). CAYMAN CONCIERGE Let us help you plan your visit? For free, impartial advice call 020 7491 7771 (office hours) or email email@example.com caymanislands.co.uk ULTRATRAVEL TOP 10 MEXICO CASA IKAL RIVIERA MAYA One of the few remaining pristine stretches of the Riviera Maya – that long, soft, sugar-white strip of sand running south of Cancún – the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve feels wonderfully remote and wild. Seven miles inside the reserve is the glorious Casa Ikal, which sits right on the beach within a private five-acre estate. All about open-plan living, the modern, whitewashed, carbon-neutral house, designed by the world-renowned Mexican architects De Yturbe, has a large marble-floored living and dining area that is open to the elements at both ends; long, shaded outdoor terraces; and a rooftop swimming pool with spectacular ocean views. Service is the perfect balance – highly personalised and attentive yet discreet, with dietary requirements and requests carefully discussed in advance. Sleeps Eight, in four bedrooms. Price From £1,764 per night, based on eight sharing, including airport transfers, taxes and all meals, an excursion to the nearby Mayan Canals, one massage per person, all non-alcoholic beverages and the services of a private chef, villa manager, butler and cleaners. Minimum stay four nights. Contact Exsus (020 7337 9000, exsus.com). The world's best beach villas Open house (from top) Solar panels contribute to Casa Ikal's carbonneutral status; the pool is on the roof; terraces surround the secluded, whitewashed property LCKI8KI8M<C ANTARCTICA & PATAGO NIA 2 0 1 3 - 2 0 1 4 U LT I M A T E ANNOUNCING SEABOURN QUEST'S 21 AND 24 DAY A N TA R C T I C A & PATA G O N I A N V O YA G E S ANTARCTIC QUEST SAILINGS Majestic, unspoilt natural spendours are waiting to be explored - snow-capped volcanoes reflected in NOV 20 - 2013 DEC 11 - 2013 JAN 4 - 2014 JAN 25 - 2014 crystalline lakes, shining glaciers and towering fjords, the rugged grandeur of Patagonia, Cape Horn and beyond, the spectacular landscapes and teeming wildlife of Antarctica and South Georgia. Sailing with Seabourn is unlike any other form of travel. It's like a favourite small hotel where our acclaimed staff offers a unique style of heartfelt hospitality that is sincere, thoughtful and personal. Our 255-suite Seabourn Quest combines the intimate style of Seabourn with the added amenities that a larger ship allows, a veranda in almost every suite, plus four restaurants and six open bars and lounges. Innovations include a multi-purpose concierge lounge, Seabourn Square and the luxurious Spa at Seabourn . Call 0844 338 8620 to request a brochure Call 0843 373 2000 for reservations www.seabourn.co.uk ULTRATRAVEL TOP 10 Marooned on the Med The Estate House, Corfu (above and below) and Tagomago Island GREECE THE ESTATE HOUSE CORFU Located on a beautiful stretch of Corfu's north-east coast, within strolling distance of the cosmopolitan harbour town of Kassiopi, the Estate House inhabits its own beautifully landscaped five-acre private headland, criss-crossed by paths, and has direct sea access, its own jetty and views across to Albania. Guests often arrive on their superyachts – it's that sort of place – and if they haven't a boat of their own, the in-house concierge can charter them something smaller, such as a Riva, for the duration. Owned by an Englishman who fell in love with Corfu as a child, the Estate House is ideal for gatherings of family and friends. Built of stone in traditional Corfu style, it is a labyrinth of shady courtyards, handcrafted stone arches, airy, classic-contemporary drawing rooms, expansive verandas and swimming pools. The seven bedrooms are all on the cool lower-ground floor and each has a private terrace. There's a cinema room with three enormous, hot-pink sofas and a 52in screen, as well as a gym, sauna, steam room and massage table. Steps lead down to a small, pebbly beach, where the improbably turquoise sea is ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Sleeps 14, in seven bedrooms. The neighbouring three-bedroom Lodge House is also available for rent. Price Rates on application. Contact Five Star Villas (020 8422 4885, fivestargreece.com). SPAIN THE VILLA TAGOMAGO ISLAND, BALEARICS Guests are in their own secluded world at this extremely chic villa – for it is not just the property that can be rented, but the entire island. About a mile long and half a mile wide, Tagomago Island lies just off the north coast of Ibiza – the villa's speedboat can make the transfer in about five minutes. The villa is in the middle of the island and has been designed for maximum outdoor living, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls that slide back, generous terraces set around a large central swimming pool, numerous daybeds and various verandas for fresh-air dining. The interiors are deliberately understated – all clean lines and white-and-grey furnishings, uplifted by splashes of bright red and orange. Other than party music from the Bang & Olufsen surround-sound system, Tagomago is extremely quiet, offering great views across clear waters that are often dotted with yachts. The mooring here, of course, is private, and a yacht can be chartered by the staff – or a helicopter, which can land at the private helipad. Polished service is provided by the resident cook, housekeeper and kitchen staff, who have separate accommodation on the island. Sleeps 10, in five bedrooms. Price from €17,100 (£13,800) per night, including all meals, staff, boat transfers to Ibiza (fuel extra) and helicopter transfers for a group of 10 from Ibiza (if staying at the villa for more than seven days). Contact OS Private Travel (01993 899430, osprivatetravel.com). LCKI8KI8M<C Water world The Edge, in Bali, has a spa with a 'liquid floor'. Below: Villa Una in Brazil ST VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES SUNRISE HOUSE MUSTIQUE Mustique is a gorgeous island of privacy and self-indulgence, and Sunrise House, where Paul McCartney and Nancy Shevell honeymooned, Elizabeth Hurley and Tom Ford have been guests and the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge once dined, is about as good as it gets. South of Macaroni Beach on the island's east coast, it offers that elusive "cocktail" sought by so many – seclusion (it is one of the few villas on the island with a private beach) and accessibility (it is five minutes by golf buggy from Basil's Bar, the island's social epicentre). Built on several levels, on a forested hillside which descends to a beach, the spacious house is immaculate and decorated in sand colours, oysters and taupes: a manicured version of the laid-back beach house. There are four suites in the main house and a fifth in one of two beach-level cottages – the other cottage contains a kitchen and additional dining space, overlooking a pool and outdoor eating and sunbathing areas. There is also a home cinema, a floodlit tennis court and a gym. Sleeps 10, in five bedrooms. Price From £2,665 per night, including seven staff and the use of two petrol-fuelled golf buggies. Contact Quintessentially Villas (020 3073 6677, quintessentiallyvillas.com). is just one of the attributes of this beautifully-sited five-bedroom villa at Ahangama village, about 10 miles east of the old Dutch fort of Galle. The property is contemporary, but designed to incorporate the best elements of colonial architecture: wide verandas, big balconies, lots of airy space and breezes flowing through a fountain-cooled courtyard. Although its white walls, pillars and marble floors create a great sense of pared-down elegance, the villa offers comforts, too, with feathery sofas, huge rain showers in the palatial bathrooms and a well-devised children's playground. It is also imbued with an intrinsically warm Sri Lankan spirit, thanks to the team of 10 staff (particularly recommended are the curries concocted by the chef, Ajit). If the stretch of sand just through the garden gate isn't exciting enough – after all, it is usually deserted – the picture-postcard beach of Mirissa is 10 miles away and the surf of Midigama is one mile to the east. Sleeps 10, in five bedrooms. Price from US$1,000 (£620) per night, including the services of staff. Contact Eden Villas (00 94 91 223 2568, villasinsrilanka.com). THAILAND THE PALM HOUSE KOH SAMUI The largest beachfront "villa" in Thailand is actually a collection of 10 mini-villas, run like an exclusive-use hotel. Its 25 staff, dressed in uniforms by Richard James of Savile Row, are on hand to provide a bespoke experience for every group. Right on Koh Samui's virtually deserted Natien Beach, the property sits within 12 acres of frangipani-filled gardens. Each roomy villa has a private terrace and outdoor rain shower, but life revolves around the clubhouse, a 70ft inky black pool and a large pool house with its own bar and bartender. Among the full-time staff are two masseuses, two Thai chefs, Tong, the resident barman, who makes a mean mango mojito from fresh mint and fruit from the garden, and the executive chef Reuben Kimber (previously of Babington House), who will talk guests through the different types of seafood and fresh produce bought from the market every morning. A 24-hour concierge is on hand to organise activities, from scuba diving to Muay Thai boxing. Sleeps Up to 20, in 10 villas. Price From $5,000 (about £3,100) per night, including breakfast and daily maid service. Contact SJ Villas (020 7589 4390, sjvillas.com). room. Pambele is a place where most guests want to stay put, in enormous bedrooms looking out on to creamy beaches, or on comfortable furniture both indoors and out (hammocks, daybeds, four-posters draped in muslin, hand-painted African throws and soft wool blankets). The chef cooks up magnificent feasts of fresh prawns, crab, lobster, salads and freshly baked bread, while the other 11 staff ensure guests are well entertained – with activities ranging from snorkelling and diving to sailing, whale-watching (July to November) and game drives. Sleeps 14 (10 adults, four children). Price £3,500 per night, including staff, all meals, transport from Vilanculos airport and the use of 4x4 vehicles and boats (diving and horse riding cost extra). Contact Pambele (07971 088153, pambele.co.mz). BALI THE EDGE BUKIT BADUNG Perched high on limestone cliffs at the southern brink of Bali, this vertiginous villa complex is built to take full advantage of its dramatic setting, with jaw-dropping panoramas from every window, and a pool and lounge that look like they are spectacularly suspended over the sea. Designed by the French, Bali-based architect Fredo Taffin and completed in 2010, The Edge is made up of three villas, each with a private plunge pool and living areas. The largest house is also equipped with a range of luxurious "playrooms", from cinema, cigar lounge and wine cellar to a children's toy zone. Just below are the main pool area, a terrace bar and a spa with a "liquid floor": a shallow pond in which guests can relax, post-treatment, to the soothing sound of running water. Service takes this sleek operation into another dimension – there are 50 staff, including a chef, spa therapists and a team of butlers on call 24 hours. The Edge is a few miles east of the great cliffside temple of Uluwatu; some of Bali's best beaches (Padang Padang, Balangan and Bingin) are five minutes away; and there is another gorgeous stretch of sand a 15-minute drive down the coast in one of the villa's private vehicles. Sleeps 20, in 10 bedrooms. Price £8,350 per night, including breakfast, staff, round-trip airport transfers and a priority processing service at the airport. Contact Ampersand Travel (020 7289 6100, ampersandtravel.com). BRAZIL VILLA UNA BAHIA When staying at Villa Una, the adventure begins on leaving the airport. Tide levels permitting, the last 14 miles are driven on the beach (the equally thrilling alternative involves driving through a rainforest and continuing through the mangroves by boat). Beautifully designed by its Anglo-Brazilian owner, a retired model, the style is rustic chic, with cool white sofas and bedlinens offset by bright local textiles, woven baskets and antiques. There are three thatched houses – one, for the staff, is tucked away; the other two are right on Una beach. The smaller of these is occupied by a private suite for two with a giant four-poster bed. In the large house, there are three bedrooms and a spacious living and dining space that expands on to the sand, with sleek, polished-cement floors and a soaring, 30ft-high thatched ceiling. This is the place to sip caipiroskas at dusk, followed by dishes such as moqueca, a classic Bahian fish stew laden with local shrimp, octopus and lobster. Sleeps Eight, in four bedrooms. Price From $2,645 (about £1,650) per night, including daily maid service, cook and airport transfers. Contact Brazilian Beach House Company (00 55 21 2225 9476, brazilianbeachhouse.com). SRI LANKA INDISCH NEAR GALLE Looking out from the lovely garden here, guests may well see leatherback turtles on the beach just below and, slightly further out, the iconic stilt fishermen of Sri Lanka's southern coast. Local colour 10 MORE TOP VILLA COMPANIES Abercrombie & Kent Villas 0845 618 2205, akvillas.com (Europe, Caribbean, plus Alpine ski chalets) Beyond Spaces Villas 00 357 22 021156, beyondspacesvillas.com (Greece) Carpe Diem Luxury Travel 020 7402 5330, carpediemtravel.co.uk (worldwide) Contemporary Hotels & Beach Houses 00 61 2 9331 2881, contemporaryhotels.com.au (Australia) CV Travel 020 7401 1010, cvtravel.co.uk (worldwide) Exclusive Escapes 020 8605 3500, exclusiveescapes.co.uk (Turkey) To Escape To 020 7060 6747, toescapeto.com (Africa, Indian Ocean and South America) Touch of Spice 00 64 3 450 0855, touchofspice.co.nz (New Zealand) Think Sicily 020 7377 8518, thinksicily.com (Sicily) Villas of Distinction 0808 234 5158, villasofdistinction.com (Caribbean, France and Italy) MOZAMBIQUE PAMBELE SAN SEBASTIAN PENINSULA It is hard to decide what is most impressive about this remote ILLUSTRATION: ROBERT SHADBOLT retreat in Mozambique. The spectacular beach? The feeling of barefoot luxury? The pristine coral? Devised in 2006 as a sustainable eco-haven, Pambele is set along a stretch of seashore at the Vilanculos Coastal Wildlife Sanctuary on the San Sebastian Peninsula. It consists of four villas topped with jekka thatch, and a central lodge with an infinity pool, a bar hewn from an old dhow, an open-sided lounge and an enclosed winter/television LCKI8KI8M<C Huvafen Fushi Discover The Maldives with Turquoise & Per AQUUM NIYAMA 7 nights including daily breakfast and dinner, transfers & international flights from £2359 per person l Huvafen Fushi 7 nights including daily breakfast and dinner, transfers & international flights from £2669 per person 01494 678400 www.turquoiseholidays.com @TurquoiseUK turquoiseholidays firstname.lastname@example.com Tu r q u o i s e The Turquoise Holiday Company In 1972, when the first tourists arrived in the Maldives, they stayed in simple palm-thatched huts and survived on tuna curry and collected rainwater. This year, an ever-growing swathe of opulent resorts, with overwater villas and underwater spas, will welcome up to a million visitors – yet the islands remain serene. Adrian Neville reports 40 Paradise has come a long way in... YEARS LCKI8KI8M<C 'THERE ARE NO DISTRACTIONS – NOTHING, BEYOND EACH ENCIRCLING BEACH' Drops in the Indian Ocean Uninhabited islands on Baa Atoll. Opposite, clockwise from left: traditional Maldivian dress; the Five Lagoons project; Angsana Ihuru beach; dhoni boats in 1970; taking a banana tree to Cocoa Island by dhoni in 1980 MAIN PHOTOGRAPH BY ADRIAN NEVILLE LCKI8KI8M<C 'ROOMS BECAME VILLAS, FOOD BECAME CUISINE, AND MIXOLOGISTS ARRIVED' Sleek and sophisticated The Park Hyatt Hadahaa, which opened last year. The Dhoni living and recreation room, in the shape of the hull of a traditional fishing boat, was constructed by local boatbuilders A Castaways From above: a good landing spot on Cocoa Island in the early 1980s; a Maldivian newspaper reports the arrival of the first party of tourists, below, led by George Corbin (crouching, centre) team of experts from the United Nations Development Programme went to the Maldives in the late 1960s and wrote a report on the prospects for tourism in the country. There were none, they concluded. Don't even bother trying: the obstacles are too big. If that seems like the least perspicacious report in tourism history, you could at least see their point. At the time, the Maldives didn't have a bank. Or an airport. Or electricity on the islands. And the only way to get around was by sailing, very slowly, in a traditional dhoni. The chance meeting in Colombo of an Italian adventurer, George Corbin, who hadn't read the report, and a Maldivian, Ahmed Naseem, was the genesis of an industry that may welcome a million visitors this year to what is possibly the world's most prestigious destination. The Maldivians who own and run Universal Resorts and Crown&Champa Resorts are the kings of the industry, admired, respected and envied. Back in 1972, that small group of friends were the young guns with spark and ambition who welcomed Corbin and his 22 guests to Male, put them up in three houses (there were no guesthouses), cooked for them (after one disastrous restaurant meal) and sailed with them around islands suitable for development. A "special correspondent" from the Morning Sun, a new English-language newspaper, met Corbin and his party soon after their arrival and immortalised the birth of tourism on the front page. On October 28, 1972 – just over 40 years ago – the first paying guests came. The Italians were accommodated in 30 rooms hastily built on an island renamed Kurumba (a young coconut). The walls were made of coral, the beams of coconut wood and the roofs palm-thatched. Each room had a bed, wardrobe, luggage rack and dressing table. That's all. Drinking water was rainwater or from a well. Meals were a repetition of tuna curry, rice, coconut and bananas. But they were in paradise. Guests were not aware that their Maldivian hosts were under considerable stress. Mohamed Umar Maniku, now the chairman of Universal Enterprises, was running on enthusiasm and determination alone. "I was cook, gardener and room boy," he recalls. "We had to do everything ourselves, and there was nothing in the Maldives then – not even a telephone. We had to use ham radio or Morse code to contact Colombo for supplies." The next dozen years were a free-for-all. Passports were not required at the airport and travellers could go anywhere if they had the wherewithal to sort out cargo boats and fishing vessels. Philippe Laurella, a Frenchman who left his job and flew to the Maldives on a whim, bought a boat and sailed around the country for years. He married a Maldivian, had three children and still lives in Male, designing boats and painting. Landing on an uninhabited island, he was greeted by a German couple, naked and somehow surviving. He gave them a share of his provisions, a few tools and moved on. The couple didn't have to go to such extremes to strip off. One of the first resorts was Club Nature, a nudist colony, on the island close to Male that later became Club Med. That era ended in 1984 when the government made it illegal to stay in anything other than a registered resort and to travel outside the few tourist atolls around Male. Resorts began paying proper money for their leases instead of peppercorn rates – that is, coconut and firewood rates. The industry would now be driven by USPs, the need to catch up and deliver the next big thing. For years brochures would boast of "hot & cold water". Air conditioning was a step up from the ceiling fan. Desalination plants put an end to saltwater showers and swimming pools. Rooms became villas, food became cuisine. Soneva Fushi put in the first wine cellar (quite a feat in shallow coral sand) and soon all the top resorts LCKI8KI8M<C had sommeliers. Now they have mixologists, too (the Constance Halaveli resort was the first). The ubiquitous Gulf Craft has replaced the dhoni, seaplanes have displaced Russian helicopters. The first really big idea that transformed the industry was the water bungalow. First built in the early 1990s, it was a slap-yourforehead-with-the-palm-of-your-hand invention: "Why didn't we think of that before?" In the late 1990s came the spa. The water bungalow, now the overwater villa of course, reached its apotheosis on Gili Lankanfushi, formerly Soneva Gili. The "destination spa" (you travel specifically to and for it) has been achieved by Conrad, Taj Exotica and Cocoa Island. Recent political turmoil, with Islamist hard-liners proposing a ban on spas and alcohol, looks unlikely to have an impact on continuing innovation of this kind. For two decades, Cocoa Island was the Robinson Crusoe plaything of the German photographer Eric Klemm. It had just four thatched rooms, salt water, no hot water, no electricity, no telephone, not even a jetty (you had to wade ashore). The present owner, Christina Ong of Como Hotels and Resorts, has kept the sense of the island being an ultimate escape, while adding a level of sophistication, design and wellbeing that is world-class. When the rough island of Hudhuveli was transformed into Soneva Gili, I was sceptical. In the first edition of my guidebook, Resorts of Maldives, I described it as "a small, laid-back resort with the advantage of being close to the airport. In truth, it doesn't have many other advantages". In fact, the concept behind it – to build some of the world's best water bungalows – was brilliant. In addition, the island was improved by dismantling walls, broadening the beach and planting trees, shrubs and a garden (not to mention the chocolate, cheese, charcuterie and wine cellar). Maldivian developers took the established idea of building over the water to another level, but what came next really put the unique in USP. Underwater is the new overwater. Conrad built the world's first sub-aquatic restaurant. Anantara Kihavah now has a great one, too. Huvafen Fushi launched the world's first underwater spa. Now, Niyama has just opened the world's first underwater nightclub. "We've come a long, long way, further than any of us thought possible," says Mohamed Umar Maniku, chairman of Niyama's parent company, "although we were too busy to dream in those early years. At least I don't have to sweep the beaches any more!" All this development rests upon the few simple gifts the Maldives has to offer. Unlike Polynesia or Micronesia, the islands are not too distant or far apart; unlike Hawaii, the Seychelles or the Caribbean, they are not big enough to have significant urban life. There are no hectic roads, hawkers or distractions – in fact, there is nobody and nothing beyond each encircling beach. Essentially, what is on offer is serenity, in a setting of pared-down beauty: palms, beach, lagoon, sea, horizon and sky. The new edition of Adrian Neville's guidebook, Resorts of Maldives (£19.99), is available at shop.sevenholidays.com. Five-point plan The Five Lagoons project will include a star-shaped hotel built high with rising sea levels in mind WHAT'S NEW IN THE MALDIVES with the coming of new regional airports that visitors can stay at the outer atolls in the far north and south. The airports were built by investors incentivised by being given a nearby island on which to build a resort. The finest is Huvadhu Atoll in the south, where you will find the ATOLL GOLF The average golf course is larger than most resort islands but a few smaller versions have nevertheless been built. Meeru has a pitch and putt, a green and a driving range and Kuredu has a full-size driving range and a lovely six-hole, par-three course. Shangri-La (above) has built a nine-hole, mostly par-three course averaging 123.4 yards, beautifully set around its coastline. The Dutch Docklands' 18-hole floating course – a world first – will be extraordinary. But the first course in the country was made by the RAF in 1962, on its airport island base of Gan in Addu Atoll. THE FIVE LAGOONS PROJECT The concept of one island, one resort has been at the core of tourism in the Maldives since Kurumba welcomed the country's first visitors. That is about to change, in a dramatic way. Dutch Docklands is developing five entire, empty lagoons. Two will have water villas; one will be made up of private islands; another will have a starshaped hotel (top) with conference centre, oceanographic institute and shopping centre, while the last one will be a floating golf course. These futuristic visions are actually taking shape, with the first of 185 water villas now up for sale. EXPANSION NORTH AND SOUTH The story of development in the Maldives is one of expansion from A LOUIS VUITTON RESORT In 40 years, the accolade of "best in the country" has passed from one resort to another, as good ones are upgraded to become great and new ones are built. In 2013 there is likely to be a new leader and a discernible change in standards. Cheval Blanc – the ultra-luxury hospitality brand developed by the LVMH group, of which Louis Vuitton, EVER-INCREASING CHOICE The roll-call of high-end resorts in the Maldives increases every year. In the past 12 months, no fewer than eight have opened: Ayada Maldives, Jumeirah Dhevanafushi, Jumeirah Vittaveli, Dusit Thani, Niyama, Viceroy Maldives, The Residence and, the latest, this month, Centara Ras Fushi. ERIC KLEMM; NAJEEB; CORBIS; ADRIAN NEVILLE; NATIONAL CENTRE FOR LINGUISTIC AND HISTORICAL RESEARCH Givenchy and Ruinart are part – will open a new Maison on the island of Randheli in the north. There will be 46 villas on a lagoon, and four islands in addition, one of which will accommodate the spa. The award-winning chef Yannick Alléno will be in charge of the kitchen. UNDERWATER CLUBBING The day before the 40th anniversary of the arrival of the first tourists in the Maldives (October 28, 1972), the brand new Niyama resort launched Subsix, the world's first underwater nightclub (below). In line with the hip and happening ethos of its owner, Per Aquum – whose other Maldives property is the fashionable Huvafen Fushi – Subsix boomed to the sounds of the global star Tinie Tempah, who played at the closing ceremony of the London Olympics. new Park Hyatt Hadahaa, a perfect, small, round island with a superb beach and an outstanding reef. It was also the first to be built to the highest eco-friendly standards. Then and now Male, the capital of the Maldives, in 1963 and today. Its international airport, which also serves regional airports on outlying atolls, is on a separate island the centre. Seaplanes extended the range of boat transfers but it is only LCKI8KI8M<C THE ESSENCE OF MALDIVES. THE SOUL OF SERENITY. Lagoon Villas at Jumeirah Vittaveli Beach Villas at Jumeirah Vittaveli Ocean Revives at Jumeirah Dhevanafushi Be spoiled for choice with two exceptional island resorts in the Indian Ocean. Escape to the enchantingly sublime Jumeirah Dhevanafushi, a secret hideaway on the southern end of the rich Maldivian landscape. Or stimulate your senses at Jumeirah Vittaveli, the true essence of a Maldivian island paradise. Whichever you choose, the experience will be unique and magically unforgettable. To book our fabulous 'Spring Offers' please log onto Jumeirah.com or contact your favourite travel professional. WATCH THE FERRARI FF IN ACTION BLIPPAR HOW IT WORKS 1. Download Blippar for free from the App Store or Google Play. 2. Hold your smartphone or tablet over the image of the car (above). 3. See the Ferrari put through its paces on a test drive in the snow. LCKI8KI8M<C Peak performance A Ferrari FF grand tourer (from £227,107) tackles the snow with ease near Brunico in the South Tyrol, on a road trip through the Dolomites SNOW SAFARIS California British Columbia Dolomites Hokkaido island Swiss Alps LCKI8KI8M<C Forget the old ski-in, ski-out and stay put formula, based in one resort and made or marred by the weather. Instead, choose freedom: hire a car, pack your skis and follow the snow. Here, five writers pick their favourite road trips PASS™ THE BEST DEAL ON LIFT ACCESS YOUR KEY TO UNLIMITED WORLD-CLASS SKIING UP TO 33% OFF LODGING AT THE VAIL COLLECTION Whatever beckons you to the mountain, be it an adrenaline rush or the desire to make tracks on fresh fallen snow, the ski season awaits! THE ARRABELLE AT VAIL SQUARE, A ROCKRESORT® THE LODGE AT VAIL, A ROCKRESORT® THE RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCE AT VAIL AUSTRIA HAUS FOR JUST OVER THE PRICE OF A 6 DAY LIFT TICKET Unlimited access to Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone, Heavenly, Northstar, Kirkwood and Arapahoe Basin. NEW Now with 3 DAYS at Verbier, Switzerland, including the 4 Vallées! ONLY AVAILABLE THRU DECEMBER 2 COLORADO LAKE TAHOE *Price subject to change. © 2012 Vail Resorts Management Company. Trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Making tracks A highway snaking through the Valley of Fire State Park in the Mojave Desert, Nevada; and a skier above Lake Tahoe, California On the road to Lake Tahoe "Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road." Only my wing mirrors defied Jack Kerouac's words, continuing to reflect the San Francisco skyline as we trundled across the eight-mile-long Oakland Bay Bridge. Five lines of traffic poured east; five flowed west. To my left, the burnt-red struts of the Golden Gate Bridge, now in its 75th year, still felt synonymous with Cali-fun, -freedom and -fornication. But for me, and for my three fellow travellers, it was the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada that beckoned, not the surf and party lifestyle of metropolitan San Francisco. Ol' Jack would have said that all a traveller needs is a wheel in his hand and four on the road, but we didn't feel like we had "lit out" just yet. Only when the waters of the Pacific had become a distant memory did it seem like our journey proper had begun. Whether or not your definition of the road trip was inspired by American literary greats such as Kerouac, Steinbeck and Twain, this is a country made for holidays where the journey is as important as the destination. Here, anyone with a car can go anywhere; a driver's licence, not a passport, is a person's identity; towns and cities are planned with parking, rather than pedestrians, in mind; and truckers, not train drivers, are the heartbeat of the nation. As a result, the roads are improbably long and straight and the cars are gargantuan fuel-guzzlers, designed for long hours at the wheel and totally at odds with these environmentally-conscious times. My black Chevrolet SUV was the size of a London bedsit, greedily eating up fuel and the 200 miles of tarmac that lay between us and the Lake Tahoe Basin, marked on the map as Highway 50. We pulled into Sacramento for a potted history, at the California State Railroad Museum, of how locomotion had shaped life out west in the wake of the 1848 Gold Rush. In California, Charles Starmer-Smith revels in untracked powder and unrivalled views on the edge of the desert From that point on, every sign seemed couched in the language of hope and opportunity that had lured 300,000 people westwards on a promise of streets paved with gold: El Dorado, Gold River, Gold Hill, Villa del Sol, La Riviera. We passed Coloma where, on a cold January day, a young carpenter called James Marshall struck gold on the South Fork of the American River, triggering one of the biggest human migrations of modern times. But it was the pioneering work of a humble postman that piqued my interest more. In 1857, after the Gold Rush ended, John A Thompson strapped on 9ft-long wooden "skis" to deliver post on the Mormon emigrant trail along which our Chevy was now thundering. Few could have suspected, then, that flecks of white rather than gold would become the lifeblood of the local economy. Dusk was fast approaching as we neared Lake Tahoe. Over-eager, I swung the SUV off Highway 50 too early, passing along the south-eastern shore and away from the urban sprawl of South Lake Tahoe. But the skyrises, casinos and condos could wait awhile, as we stopped to gaze through snow-laden trees at North America's largest alpine lake and the snow-capped peaks beyond it. In summer, the vast Lake Tahoe, with its 72-mile circumference, is a hive of activity – hiking, biking, boating and fishing – but in winter attention shifts to the 14 alpine resorts surrounding it, invariably reached by car. We had arrived, but our road trip was only just beginning. For most European skiers, the idea of driving to the slopes each day is an anathema. Ski-in, ski-out and stay put is the tried-and-tested formula, and resorts are chosen for their proximity to planes and trains (and to minimise the transfer up twisting Alpine roads). In many ways, however, that formula is a gamble: everything hinges on the snow-gods being kind and the crowds staying away. I preferred the odds of a snow safari, where four wheels leave you with a trump card to play. Companies such as Ski Safari (which organised my trip) can tailor-make a range of itineraries across resorts in North America, Japan, Switzerland or Scandinavia. Capitalising on a growing desire among skiers for multi-destination trips, they offer everything from pristine lodges and premium hotels to private rentals. Each morning, as we debated where we were heading, it felt like a scene from Kerouac's novel – and we relished the freedom. Setting out from our split-level town house in South Lake, we ventured east to Heavenly, where we w oR n SA FA IS S CALIFORNIA USA ROUTE San Francisco–Lake Tahoe–Mammoth–Las Vegas. DISTANCE 640 miles. CAR Chevrolet Tahoe: a butch American beast with a big boot, as happy on slippery passes as on hot tarmac. STAY The Resort at Squaw Creek (001 530 583 6300, squawcreek.com), Squaw Valley; rooms from £125. The Cosmopolitan (001 702 698 7000, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com), Las Vegas; from £135. EAT Wolfdale's (001 530 583 5700, wolfdales.com), Tahoe City; mains from £9. Twist by Pierre Gagnaire at the Mandarin Oriental (001 888 881 9367, mandarinoriental.com), Las Vegas; mains from £30. LCKI8KI8M<C carved gently through untracked powder, stopping only to marvel at the view from the long Ridge Run, a far cry from your typical Alpine panorama. On one side, the lake, flooding the valley floor with mercury blue; on the other, the arid, earthy plains of the Nevada desert. For more challenging runs and emptier pistes, we headed south to Kirkwood, before hotfooting it to Alpine Meadows after news came in that it had enjoyed some overnight snow. After a few days, we upped sticks and skirted Tahoe's western shore to Squaw Valley, home of the 1960 Winter Olympics and the resort of choice for the West Coast gliterrati. Welcome to Squallywood. Here, steam rose from hot tubs into the night sky, couples with matching fur-lined collars browsed the boutiques before dining in refined restaurants serving Italian, French or Pan-Asian cuisine – a step up from the FOR CHALLENGING RUNS AND EMPTIER PISTES, WE HEADED SOUTH usual. We stayed at the salubrious Resort at Squaw Creek, where the penthouse suites afford views of six alpine peaks. Yet Squaw Valley has substance as well as style, rivalling Val d'Isère for its connectivity and varied terrain, with the steep runs off KT-22 living long in the memory. But constant sunshine and rising temperatures were beginning to play havoc with the pistes. Early-morning ice gave way to lunchtime slush – a disaster avoided by going back on the road with barely a backward glance. Slicing through the Sierra Nevada mountains, we headed south on the old El Camino trail to Mammoth, stopping only to admire the vistas over lakes Mono and Topaz. Mammoth proved to be no hyperbole. It seems improbable, but here on the edge of the desolate plains of Nevada lies California's highest ski resort. Winter storms sweep in from the Pacific, and any precipitation that reaches these last great peaks is deposited on the pistes below. The result is 10 metres of snowfall each winter, a season that can last until June and, on this occasion, broad smiles on the faces of four excited Englishmen. What the resort lacks in subtlety it makes up for in sheer skiing pleasure. For two days we swept down open bowls and snaked through forest glades, before toasting our efforts in the lively bars long after sundowner time. The temperature touched -10C as we raced down the Cornice run for the final time before setting the satnav for Las Vegas. Just over two hours later, we ground to a halt 200ft below sea level with the dashbard temperature gauge registering 40C: a cool day in Death Valley. I smiled inanely as the road stretched out through the vast empty plains devoid of life or character. We rolled on as the shadows lengthened across the Mojave Desert. Finally, Vegas appeared on the horizon – a circus of excess rising implausibly out of the desert. A table awaited us at the Marquee nightclub, but just as the neon lights of the Strip appeared tantalisingly close, it dawned on us that some bright spark had left the bag containing all our shoes back in Mammoth. Cue some sharp words, an even sharper turn off the Strip and an unscheduled stop at one of its monolithic shopping malls. Still clad in ski gear, we marched down the first aisle of a stack'em high, sell'em cheap shoe outlet, grabbing four pairs of faux crocodile-skin shoes. When in Vegas… The cashier smiled wearily at our wintry garb. "So y'all getting hitched?" she asked, in a matter-of-fact way. I looked at her quizzically, then back at the matching pairs of lurid loafers on the counter. "Only to the road, ma'am," I replied. It was the kind of answer of which Ol' Jack would have been proud. Ski Safari (01273 224060, skisafari.com) is offering a 14-night road trip through California and Nevada from £1,975 per person. The price includes seven nights in Squaw Valley Resort at Squaw Creek, five nights in Mammoth at Juniper Springs, two nights in a five-star hotel in Las Vegas, return economy flight and SUV car hire. w oR n SA FA IS S BRITISH COLUMBIA CANADA REASON Intrepid powder-hunting. ROUTE Whistler–Revelstoke–Golden–Kicking Horse–Banff. DISTANCE 580 miles. Air time En route from Whistler to Banff, you can go heli-skiing from Revelstoke or Golden CAR Rent a 4x4 SUV, such as a Ford Explorer. You are very likely to encounter serious snowstorms – it's not at all like Europe. TERRAIN Mile after mile of Canadian wilderness links the resorts of this powder-packed route. You pass through spectacular scenery, including the Monashees and the Canadian Rockies, frozen lakes and rivers and four national parks. The roads are good and deserted but be prepared for lots of snow, and beware of wildlife on the road. You'll see elk and bighorn sheep galore. SKI Whistler is the biggest ski area in North America, with two linked mountains, high bowls and steep couloirs. Five years ago, a new gondola transformed Revelstoke from a small hill into a major resort; slopes are steep, long and usually powder-filled. You can go heli- and cat-skiing from the base there, too. Then stop at Great Canadian Heli-Skiing, based between Golden and Revelstoke, for a couple of days in a dedicated heli-ski lodge with eight to 12 runs a day in virgin powder. Just 40 miles along the road is Kicking Horse, and more powder on former heli-ski terrain now served by a gondola and chair lift. Finish up at Banff, with a choice of three different ski areas covered by the tri-area lift pass – Mount Norquay, Sunshine Village and Lake Louise. STAY Fairmont Chateau Whistler (001 604 938 8000, fairmont.com/whistler). Slopeside luxury, excellent service, great outdoor pool and hot tubs, sauna, steam, spa; from £160 a night for a double room. Vagabond Lodge (001 250 344 2622, vagabondlodge.ca), Kicking Horse. Luxurious 10-bedroom log cabin with a fabulous first-floor living room and comfortable bedrooms; from £210 a night for two, including breakfast and lunch. EAT RimRock Café (001 604 932 5565, rimrockwhistler.com) at Whistler Creekside. Popular, so book before your trip. Excellent seafood, several small, cosy dining areas. Mains £24. Eagle's Eye (001 250 439 5413, kickinghorseresort.com), at the top of Kicking Horse gondola. Canada's best mountain restaurant, open for lunch daily and dinner at weekends. Stylish log cabin decor, great views, good service, varied menu. Mains from £20. TIP Book your trip through a Canada specialist tour operator such as Frontier Ski (020 8776 8709, frontier-ski.co.uk), which knows all the resorts well. Dave Watts The author is co-editor of Where to Ski and Snowboard, Britain's only ski resort guidebook to be updated annually. The new 17th edition is available to Telegraph readers at a special discount price. For details, see wheretoskiandsnowboard.com/telegraph. LCKI8KI8M<C The world's best views at great-looking prices. SNOW AND TRAIN WINTER TOURING EXPERIENCE From £ 1,668 7 nights, includes flights. Terms and conditions apply. * per person www.keepexploring.ca/offers Photo credit: VIA Rail Canada Inc. *Price is based per person on two people sharing a double room. Standard hotel accommodation for six nights, sleeping accommodation onboard VIA Rail for one night, transfers between rail depot and hotel in Jasper, various excursions and other transfers. Full details available upon request. Included are flights from London Heathrow Airport to Vancouver International Airport. Taxes are included. Meals and airport transfers are not included. Price is based on arrangements commencing on 4 January 2013 but tour available from 30 November 2012. Travel must be completed by 31 March 2013. Prices subject to change according to dates of travel and availability of flights and hotels. Promotion ends 30 November 2012. Asahikawa Mount Asahidake Depth of feeling At Niseko (left) and Furano, on Hokkaido island, soft powder descents through the forest can be followed by a dip in a thermal pool JAPAN Sapporo New Chitose Airport Furano Niseko Rusutsu Mount Tomamu 20 miles 20 miles Engelberg SWITZERLAND Andermatt Val d'Anniviers Verbier Chamonix Mont Blanc FRANCE GERMANY HOKKAIDO ISLAND JAPAN REASON Perfect powder. ROUTE New Chitose Airport (Sapporo)– Rusutsu–Niseko–Mount Asahidake–Furano– Mount Tomamu–New Chitose Airport. DISTANCE 250 miles. CAR Toyota Sienna LE AWD, a seven-seater 4x4 people-carrier that has great traction on snowcovered roads, and lots of room for ski gear. TERRAIN Japan's northern island is remote, rugged, four times the size of Wales, and home to some 87 ski resorts. This route takes in five of the best. Spend most time in Niseko, by far the largest. The drive is as big an adventure as the skiing. Drivers must contend with poor maps, and the 18 metres of snow that falls each winter. However, most rental cars do have satnav. The scenery is alpine exotic – craggy 2,000m peaks, primeval pine forest, cherry trees and stands of bamboo. It is at its most dramatic around Mount Asahidake, a smoking volcano in the Daisetsuzan National Park. The last westerly stretch along the coast to the airport offers glimpses of snow-covered beaches, seals and sea-ice. SKI By European or American standards, the mountains aren't high, but you ski almost down to sea level. Off-piste skiing used to be banned because older Japanese believe it offends the mountain spirits, but it is now accepted in the major resorts. Soft powder descents through the forest in Niseko and Furano are nothing short of fabulous, stopping off for a skinny dip in remote bath-temperature natural pools. Mount Asahidake, at 2,291m, is steep and exciting, with added hazards – searing steam vents and a boiling-water stream. STAY Niseko Northern Resort An'nupuri (00 81 136 58 3311, niseko-northern.com/en) is in a quiet position with a natural hot spring and spa. Double rooms have double beds – a rarity in rural Japan; from £216 per room per night. La Vista Daisetsuza (japan-ryokan.net/lavistadaisetsuzan; email email@example.com), near Asahidake's lift, has stylish, rustic rooms with 10 types of pillow, Japanese and French cuisine, plus indoor and outdoor onsen (themal pools); from £261 per room per night. EAT The Barn (00 81 136 23 0888), Niseko Hirafu. Describes itself as Hokkaido's only alpine bistro. Try the marinated Tokizake salmon, from £15. Syoujikimura (00 81 167 23 3143), Furano. An inn with a celebrated ramen restaurant which serves great gyoza dumplings, from £12. TIP Try Black Diamond Tours (00 81 90 2054 8687, blackdiamondtours.com). Peter Hardy I TA LY ITALY THE ALPS REASON SWITZERLAND Off-piste adventure. ROUTE Chamonix– Verbier–Val d'Anniviers– Andermatt Engelberg. DISTANCE 230 miles. CAR Audi A6 Allroad Quattro 3.0 TDI. Four-wheel drive, a massive boot and a load-through hatch w o n S IS R SAFA designed for skis make this sturdy estate a brilliant option – grippy on hairpin climbs and descents, smooth and quiet on the motorway. TERRAIN The highest Alpine peaks – including Mont Blanc – surround this route that takes in five spectacular off-piste playgrounds. The driving is as exhilarating as the skiing: the sweeping hairpins of the descent from the Col de la Forclaz into Switzerland feel like a World Cup downhill, with a thrilling view over the Rhône Valley, a patchwork of vineyards. There follow scenic motorway, a detour into the rugged Val d'Anniviers and a winding ascent to Andermatt, the last half-hour on the Furka car-train. From this Alpine junction – to the east, the Oberalp pass; to the south, the Gotthard tunnel – the road zig-zags down to Lake Lucerne en route to Engelberg. SKI The Grands Montets and Vallée Blanche at Chamonix and the backcountry routes off Mont Fort, at Verbier, are justifiably famous. However, it's the quieter spots on this snow-sure route that stand out. Zinal and Grimentz in the Val d'Anniviers offer acres of exciting yet easily accessed terrain, from the bowl of the Piste du Chamois to side-routes from the highest points (2,900m). In Andermatt, the myriad routes down the north-facing Gemsstock are only the start: take a guide for a greater adventure. At Engelberg, classics include the Laub, with 1,000m of vertical, and glacier routes from the Titlis revolving cable car. STAY Bella Tola (00 41 27 475 1444, bellatola.ch), St-Luc, Val d'Anniviers. Alpine chic meets antique elegance at this Victorian classic with beautiful sitting rooms, a spa and a veranda; from £170. The River House (00 41 41 887 0025, theriverhouse.ch), with a sociable bar, melds contemporary design with 250-year-old features; from £130. EAT L'Etable du Marais (00 41 27 475 1419). Roesti and croûte au fromage are specialities at this sophisticated piste-side cowshed above Grimentz. Mains from £12. Ski Lodge Engelberg (00 41 41 637 35 00). Dishes at this Scandinavianowned lodge includes lamb with goat's cheese, and seared scallops with salmon. From £20. TIP In 2013, the first of a batch of Qatari-owned hotels opens in Andermatt, and Zinal and Grimentz MAPS: STEFBAYLEY.CARBONMADE.COM; 4CORNERS; ALAMY; REUTERS THE DOLOMITES ITALY REASON Knockout scenery, knockout food. ROUTE Madonna di Campiglio–Val Gardena–Alta Badia–Cortina d'Ampezzo. DISTANCE 120 miles. CAR Ferrari FF, making all those Range Rovers in the hotel car park look pedestrian. TERRAIN In the Dolomites, a Unesco World Heritage site, 3,000m peaks tower all around. From Campiglio, beneath the rugged Gruppo di Brenta, go north over a minor pass and then to Bolzano over the Mendola pass, with great views east to Val Gardena (familiar to Ski Sunday viewers). Next, the Gardena pass climbs steeply but then descends gently to Corvara. Finally, the high but harmless Valparola and Falzarego passes bring you to Cortina d'Ampezzo. SKI This is an area for cruising – take your time and enjoy the sensational scenery. From Campiglio, visit the more testing red slopes of linked Marilleva, Folgarida and Pinzolo. Val Gardena has famous downhill race courses above Selva and Santa Cristina – easy groomed blacks. Both Selva and Corvara are launch pads for the Sella Ronda – an easy full-day circuit of the Gruppo Sella. On the last leg to Cortina, ride the Lagazuoi cable car from Passo Falzarego, for the fabulous "hidden valley" run towards Corvara. Take a shared taxi back to your car. STAY Hotel Chalet del Sogno (00 39 0465 441033, hotelchaletdelsognocampiglio.com), Campiglio. Seventeen lovely suites, swanky wellness centre – all low-carbon; from £96. La Perla (00 39 0471 831000, hotel-laperla.it), Corvara. Location, style, service, top-notch food – all very informal; from £190. EAT Chalet Fiat (00 39 0465 441507) on Monte Spinale, Campiglio. As good as mountain eating gets. Mains from £16. Tivoli (00 39 0436 866400, ristorantetivolicortina.it), Cortina. Out of town, at the foot of the Pomedes ski slopes, this tiny (Michelin-starred) chalet does Cortina's best food. From £19. TIP From the Sella Ronda, ski via Arabba to Marmolada for top-of-the-world views and superb glacial snow. Chris Gill The author is co-editor of Where to Ski and Snowboard 2013. Andermatt. This petite nine-room boutique hotel, Alta Badia Bolzano Val Gardena I TA LY Di Campiglio di Campiglio will be linked by cable car. Yolanda Carslaw LCKI8KI8M<C WE ARE INSPIRED BY THE REDEFINITION OF LUXURY, AND WE CHOSE TO PARTNER WITH SWISSÔTEL MICHELE RONDELLI, JAKOB SCHLAEPFER TEXTILES JAKOB SCHLAEPFER TEXTILES CAN BE SEEN IN OUR HOTELS AND PURCHASED FROM WWW.SWISSOTELATHOME.COM AUSTRALIA SYDNEY CHINA ESTONIA TALLINN GERMANY JAPAN OSAKA THE NETHERLANDS PERU SAUDI ARABIA MAKKAH TURKEY www.swissotel.com www.swissotelcircle.com BEIJING CHANGSHA * CHENGDU * FOSHAN KUNSHAN SANYA * SHANGHAI ECUADOR BERLIN BREMEN DRESDEN DÜSSELDORF INDIA SINGAPORE AMSTERDAM LIMA RUSSIA SINGAPORE (2) SWITZERLAND ANKARA BODRUM (2) * ISTANBUL IZMIR UNITED ARAB EMIRATES QUITO BANGALORE * KOLKATA MUMBAI * NEW DELHI * MOSCOW SOCHI (2) * KAZAN * BASEL GENEVA (2) ZURICH THAILAND DUBAI * BANGKOK (2) PHUKET UNITED STATES OF AMERICA CHICAGO *under development ULTRAadventure Emptiness: the new luxury Space and silence are our balm in hectic times. Michelle Jana Chan is soothed, on contrasting journeys across the vast Namibian desert and the surreal salt flats of Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia LCKI8KI8M<C 'IT'S THE LACK OF PEOPLE THAT DRAWS TRAVELLERS HERE. NAMIBIA ALLOWS YOU TO BREATHE. YOU CAN DANGLE YOUR SOUL IN THE ENDLESS SPACE' High and dry The red dunes of Sossusvlei, in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, rise up to 800ft above sea level. Temperatures can plummet from 30C during the day to less than 10C at night, and virtually no rain falls from May to December PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL POLIZA LCKI8KI8M<C Rock art Wolwedans Boulders Camp, surrounded by granite. Below: desert-adapted elephants; stating the obvious; and an oryx, native to arid parts of Africa S uspecting a flat tyre, I pulled over just before the town of Palmwag. As I got out and walked around the vehicle, the puncture hissed at me like a snake. As I extracted the jack and wheel brace from the boot, it began to rain – in one of the world's driest countries. Swiftly, the drizzle swelled to a full-on thunderstorm, yet I smiled to myself like a small child playing outdoors. Changing a tyre on the hard shoulder of the M25 might not be much fun, but by the side of the road in northern Namibia, with a herd of springbok staring at you through the downpour, it's an adventure. After the wheel-change I turned north-west. In the back of my 4x4 Jeep Wrangler, I still had a second spare tyre, a jerrycan of extra fuel and other supplies. I felt as though I could drive forever. Namibia is an ideal choice for a road trip in Africa. The sealed roads are in excellent condition, there is minimal traffic, and the only serious hazard is flagged by signposts warning of crossing warthogs and kudus; it is wise to drive only in daylight hours. My route was a classic self-drive circuit taking in the wonders of Bushmanland in the north-east; Etosha, Namibia's finest national park; the remote border with Angola; rugged Damaraland; the Skeleton Coast and the red dunes of NamibRand Nature Reserve. Travelling across the hot, unmoving landscape was like driving through a still life. Even the animals were motionless, conserving their energy in the parched habitat. From one hour to the next, the landscape barely altered, save perhaps for driving through the shadow of a cloud. Only the fuel gauge indicated I was making progress. I filled up with petrol in Sesfontein. The attendant estimated it would take four hours to cover the next 60 or so miles; I was unlikely to see any cars en route, he added. The "road" ahead comprised deep, soft sand and he advised me to release some air from my tyres. As I turned towards the village of Puros, the gravel road petered out. Instead I followed the sandy tracks of previous vehicles. Sometimes the tyre marks diverged or entirely disappeared but I pressed on westwards through forests of stocky mopane trees and past wind-whipped sculpted mountains. I slowed to watch a herd of oryx turn and canter off. A small brood of guinea fowl scuttled across the road. Now and then I stopped to stretch my legs. It was good to smell the hot earth and the dry grass. Once I saw a distant fork of lightning in a blue, cloudless sky. Arriving in Puros, I traversed dry river beds to reach Okahirongo Elephant Lodge, a crude yet elegant hotel made up of seven adobe rondavels blending into the LCKI8KI8M<C ochre and terracotta hues of the natural landscape. After checking in, I headed out accompanied by an intuitive tracker named Pollen to seek the elusive desert-adapted elephant. "Look," Pollen said, pointing at the sky. I followed his finger but could detect nothing. "Can't you see it? The aeroplane." I smiled. It seemed it might be more unusual to spot planes here than wild animals. I scanned the mountains with my binoculars but it was Pollen who first spotted a small herd with his naked eye. They were a good way off, loping down the flank of the mountain. We drove to a spring in the otherwise dry Hoarusib river bed and eventually the great animals appeared – wise, like us, to the fresh water. I noticed their desert adaptations: longer legs and larger feet to ease walking upon sand. Their trunks were also longer in order to probe for deeper water. They drank deliberately before pausing to look up at our vehicle, their ears flapping in the heat. Back at the lodge, I chatted with the owner, Pieter De Wet. "It's true that it is difficult to get to places like this, but I'm finding it's what people increasingly want," he said. "They don't mind having to travel deeper into wilderness." De Wet has a second property further north, in an even more remote part of the country, and that was my next destination. It was a half-day drive up to the Angolan border, through the Marienfluss Valley, framed by the Otjihipa and Hartmann mountains. The landscape draws together red sand and grassy scrubland, and is dotted with "fairy circles", round patches devoid of vegetation. Even the clouds seem more beautiful: a solitary puff; a cheeky flick and – with a dose of imagination – all sorts of abstract, amorphous creatures in the sky. I passed lonesome trees, skittish gemsbok and beatenup cars. "You have to be sure of yourself in a place like this," a fellow traveller told me. "Not everybody feels comfortable. It can be too big and too empty for some." kahirongo River Camp came up suddenly. Merging with the rocky terrain, its stilted canvas tents with private decks overlook the charging Kunene, the river that serves as the border with Angola. Dusty from the road, I clambered down the bank to slide into the cool current. "Make sure you swim only in moving water," De Wet had advised. "Crocodiles don't like rapids." I looked across at Angola's barren mountains. There was a neat column of rain in the distance but I could see nothing else moving. Only through my binoculars could I make out a donkey or two. "It's the lack of people that draws travellers here," said Leander Borg, who founded the local operator NatureFriend Safaris. "Namibia allows you to breathe. You can dangle your soul in the endless space." Towards the end of my trip, Borg had organised a mobile safari among the high dunes south of Swakopmund. In our 4x4s, we drove up and down the mountains of burnished sand, teetering over the lips of dunes before hurtling down the other side, then flooring it up the next peak. We came across a family of ostriches, followed by some nervous springbok. They looked as startled to see us as we were to see them. We stopped to set up camp and, as the first stars appeared, built a fire. "This is where we come from," Borg said, poking at the embers. "For thousands of years we've been sitting around fires. Maybe it is an instinctive thing to come out in the bush and do this." The temperature dropped overnight and we awoke to the sight of dew on the ground – which many of the NAMIBIA HOW TO STAY IN SPLENDID ISOLATION Break an intrepid journey in the wilderness at these six oases of civilisation OKAHIRONGO RIVER CAMP Located near the remote NamibiaAngola border, on the banks of the crocodile-infested Kunene River (below), the rocky terrain is dotted with half a dozen tented suites furnished with four-poster beds, riotously colourful beaded chairs and blockprinted graphic textiles. Among the activities available at the camp are fishing, birdwatching and visits to local villages, home to the semi-nomadic THE OLIVE EXCLUSIVE This stylish boutique hotel (above), in a leafy, upmarket neighbourhood of Windhoek, has seven suites – four of them with plunge pools – decorated with locally sourced artefacts such as masks, bongo drums and painted oryx horns. From the terraced restaurant, guests look east towards green hills. Close to the airport, the place is ideal for a one-night pause after landing and before hitting the road. theolive-namibia.com ONGUMA TENTED CAMP On the eastern side of Etosha, the country's finest national park, Onguma overlooks an active waterhole and game can be seen from the private deck or shower of each of its seven luxury tents. Well located for day trips into the park, the camp is surrounded by more than 34,000 hectares of savannah, bushveld and dry pan, so it is well worth spending a day on safari in the immediate area. onguma.com OKAHIRONGO ELEPHANT LODGE Built on a rocky escarpment, the hotel has seven villas (one pictured, right), each with an indoor and outdoor shower, and a lounge-gazebo overlooking the dry Hoarusib river bed. It's a spot frequented by desert elephant, giraffe, kudus and ostriches. Trackers take guests on morning and evening game drives to seek out even closer encounters with wildlife. okahirongolodge.com Himba people. okahirongolodge.com MOWANI MOUNTAIN CAMP Situated between the Ugab and Huab rivers, this revamped lodge comprises 12 new stilted suites overlooking the rocky wilderness of southern Damaraland. Each has its own wooden deck and a domed roof thatched with buffalo grass. There is a sundowner spot, with panoramic views, high up on the granite koppie, as well as a pool carved out between giant boulders. Nearby are the Bushmen engravings at Twyfelfontein. mowani.com WOLWEDANS DUNE CAMP In the heart of the NamibRand private nature reserve, this camp sits right on the edge of an 800ft-high dune that towers majestically above it. Just 12 paying guests are accommodated in open tents erected on wooden platforms, each with a spacious deck for sleep-outs under the stars. Scenic drives take in the fascinating geological formations, as well as the hardy flora and fauna. wolwedans. com/lodges-camps/dune-camp Silver service The moon rising at dusk over a herd of giraffe in Etosha National Park, Namibia, easily accessed from Onguma Tented Camp LCKI8KI8M<C Love Travel, Love Luxury... Love Trailfinders Why Trail nders? • • • • • • Firsthand advice from our extensively travelled consultants Access to exclusive o ers only available to Trail nders clients No credit card charges unlike most other travel companies Complete peace of mind with unrivalled nancial protection 24 travel centres across the UK Trusted for more than 42 years Indulge in a Little Luxury with Trailfinders 5★ Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Thailand 5+★ Phulay Bay 5+★ The Oberoi Mauritius 5★ The BodyHoliday Saint Lucia Understated luxury Mountain top dining Fabulous Six Senses Spa Stunning location • 5 nights from £1,199 Saving over £300 Includes a POOL VILLA • • • • Breathtaking views • Extremely spacious pavilions & villas Beautiful design • Excellent • personalised service 7 nights from £1,579 Saving over £800 Includes a FREE Thai Massage 8 nights from £1,659 Saving over £1,000 Includes a LUXURY PAVILION & 1 COMPLIMENTARY LUNCH per stay Idyllic location Peaceful surroundings Holistic Spa Excellent dining 7 nights from £1,759 Saving over £850 • • • • • Unique health & well being holiday • Picturesque location Award-winning TAO restaurant • Sporting activities included • Includes ALL INCLUSIVE & Free daily massage Prices are per person based on two people sharing & are subject to availability. Valid for selected May 2013 departures, book by 30 November. All holidays include international ights, breakfast & transfers – call for our latest luxury holiday o ers TAILORMADE TRAVEL WORLDWIDE 020 7368 1200 FIRST & BUSINESS CLASS TRAVEL 020 7368 1400 trail nders.com/luxury ְְְְְֱֱֱֲֲֲֲֲֳֳִֵֶֶַַַַ֢֦֦֤֣֪֦֧֪֦֦֣֧֦֦֪֦֪֣֪֣֥֦֪֥֣֭֭֭֮֮֮֫֨֠֡֠֠֠֯֠֠֫֠֫֡֬֠֩֫ ִ'6/((+'3 ָֿ֧֯"֣֮֠"ֱֺֽ֢֡֠֠֫!ְֺֺ ֱֳֵֺּֽֿ֮֫־ֹ֢֠֡־ "8'=֮֠֠3/-.87֠,46֤֭֠֠'11֠/3)197/:+ /3֠'ֳ֠+').7/*+ִ֠4968='6*֠"9/8+ ,642֠>ְ֤֬֯֬֠5֦5֦ SAVING £3,360 per couple. $'1/*ֻ֥֪֧֮֠֠'3֠֨֩֠/3)197/:+֦ ֺ3*/'3ֿ֠)+'3 ְֲִֵֵֵֵֶַַֹֹֽֿ֦֪֮֮֮֠֩֡֠ ֱֽ "8'=֮֠֠3/-.87֠,46֤֭֠֠/3)19*/3(6+'0,'78֠/3֠'֠$/11'֠"9/8+֠֡֠6+)+/:+ '֠6+*9)+*֠6'8+֠,642֠>ְ֪֤֯֬֠5֦5֦ SAVING £3,090 per couple. $'1/*ֻ֧֥֪֠֨֨֠'3ֽ֤֥֮֠֨֩֠'6֠֡ ֲ֮֠56ֽ֥֨֨֠'=֪֠֨֠/3)197/:+֦ ֳ440֠֫֬֠*'=7֠/3֠'*:'3)+֦ ֶ9645+ ֹֽֽ֢֤֮֮֡֠"ֻּֽֿ "8'=֮֠֠3/-.87֤֠/3)19*/3-֠(6+'0,'78 /3֠'֠"89*/4֠"9/8+֠֡֠6+)+/:+֠' 6+*9)+*֠6'8+֠,642֠>֤֪֨֫֬֠5֦5֦ SAVING £950 per couple. $'1/*ֲ֠֨֠56ֿ֥֪֨֠)8֪֠֨֠/3)197/:+֦ ֳ440֠(=ֲ֪֧֠֠56֪֦֠֨ ֲ7/' ֱֱֺֺֹֺּּֽֽֽֿ֥֮֠֬֠֫־ ְִִֵֵַָֺֹֿ֭֮֮֮֨֠֬֡֠ "8'=֠֯֠3/-.87֠,46֤֭֠֠6442֠431=֠/3֠' ֿ3+ֳ֠+*6442֠$/11'֠,642֠>֤֭֩֫֬֠5֦5֦ SAVING £1,840 per couple $'1/*ֻ֠֨֨֠'3ַ֥֭֠+(ַ֤֠֨֫֠+(ֽ֥֪֩֠'6 ֲ֪֡֠֠56ֵ֥֩֨֠+)֪֠֨֠/3)197/:+֦ ֳ440֪֧֠֠*'=7֠/3֠'*:'3)+֦ www.elegantresorts.co.uk 01244 897 502 ִ'6/((+'3ֽ֠֡֠+</)4֠? ֺ3*/'3ֿ֠)+'3ֲ֤֠6'(/'3ָ֠91,ֽ֠֡֠/**1+ֶ֠'78֠? #.+ֲ֠2+6/)'7ִ֢֠'3'*'֤֠־468.֠֡֠"498.ֲ֠2+6/)'֣֠? ֲ,6/)'֠? ֲ7/'ֲ֠֡֠9786'1'7/' ? ֶ9645+֠֡֠־468.ֲ֠,6/)'֠? ּ9<96=֠$/11'7֤֠&').87֠֡֠ 6/:'8+ֺ֠71'3*7֠? ּ9<96=ִ֠69/7+֠? ּ9<96=֠"0/֠? %461*;/*+ֶ֠<5+*/8/437֠? "5')+ ֶ1+-'38֠!+74687ּ֠8*֤֠6+-/78+6+*֠4,,/)+ֱ֠#.+ֿ֠1*֠ '1')+ִ֤֠.+78+6ִֹ֤֠֨֠֨!ֲֳ֦֠#ּֿ֠5648+)8+*ֲֳ֤֠֩֯֯֬֠#ֲ֠$֮֨֨֩ Rough and smooth The Atacama desert, above, in southern Bolivia; and the vast, white plains of the Salar de Uyuni salt pans, where a Chilean company takes adventurers on overland 'travesias', exploring by Jeep desert-adapted animals suck to slake their thirst. A cool, low mist burnt off by late morning. Chris McIntyre, author of the Bradt Guide to Namibia, believes it is these kinds of experiences that people make people fall for this part of Africa. "Space is surely the ultimate luxury," he said. "People say they want to see game – but when you quiz them, it is not animals they are interested in, but wilderness. Otherwise they could just as well go to Whipsnade Zoo. What they want is to get away from it all, and Namibia provides that more than anywhere else in Africa." I ended my road trip in the NamibRand, one of southern Africa's largest private nature reserves, where the capacity of lodges and camps is strictly limited to 20 beds per lodge. At Wolwedans Dune Camp, there are just six tents, each on a spacious wooden platform. Its sister camp, Wolwedans Boulders, has only four tents, making it feel more exclusive still. ut Namibia is not the only part of the world where extreme silence and solitude beckon. Six thousand miles to the west, at about the same latitude, lie the Atacama desert and Bolivia's Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest and highestaltitude salt pans. Seven years ago, inspired by their remoteness, the Chilean travel company Explora set up its "travesias" – overland 4x4 journeys, taking guests deep into South America's most inaccessible regions. "These trips are for people attracted to the idea of a nomadic journey," said Jesús Parrilla, Explora's CEO. "On my first travesia, I remember, we had four flat tyres in 90 minutes. One guest turned to me and said, 'This is fantastic.' People want to be surprised; they want to disconnect; they want an adventure." I joined a group leaving the oasis of San Pedro, in the heart of the Chilean north. From there we crossed the border, where Bolivian immigration was an isolated outpost. A windswept group of Japanese tourists waited patiently outside the hut, clutching their passports. Days on the road were long and languorous. Through the vehicle window, we gazed out at lagoons of vibrant hue infused by various minerals. Andean geese waddled on the banks. We piled out of the van from time to time, to explore the geothermal plains of Sol de Mañana, with its pools of violently spurting, bubbling mud, or to take photographs of dramatic rocks and ancient lichen. The SALAR DE UYUNI HOW TO DO IT Explora (explora.com) offers several overland journeys around the remote regions of South America, all of them aimed at the active and well-travelled. These travesias begin or end at one of the company's lodges in the Atacama desert or in Patagonia, and guests travel in 4x4s and stay at simple camps en route. Night-time temperatures can fall well below zero, and activities include hiking at altitudes higher than 4,000m (about 13,000ft) above sea level. There are two Explora travesias to the Salar de Uyuni salt pans. One begins in Potosi – the historic Bolivian city where vast silver deposits sustained the Spanish empire for centuries – and ends in the oasis of San Pedro in Chile's Atacama desert. The second route begins in San Pedro, curves into Bolivia, and ends in Iquique on the northern Chilean coast. Both journeys encompass high-altitude trekking, exploring geothermal landscapes and driving across the salt pans. Similar journeys are available with Explora to the open spaces of the Andes and Patagonia. scrub was a mix of stunted, luminous-green bushes and giant, candelabra-shaped cacti. Herds of heavy-coated llamas stared at our vehicle as it passed. On the third day, way in the distance, we caught our first sight of the blurred smear of Uyuni's salt pans. As we drove closer, we could make out the granular nature of the salt crust, glistening like quartz. The tesselated surface was made up of misshapen polygons, formed as the salt dries and crystallises. It crackled underfoot. Oddly, the surface was studded with carcasses of butterflies, which become disorientated as they fly above Uyuni's dazzling landscape. Parts of the pan were flooded, turning the surface into a gigantic mirror. Flocks of flamingoes offered up flawless reflections. By night, we slept on camp beds in cottages of stone or wood, and sometimes inside shipping containers kitted out for the purpose. Conditions were simple but snug; outside it was –20C, with blistering winds. In the middle of the night, when I needed to dart out to the lavatory (housed in a separate shipping container), I reminded myself to look up at the night sky. With the high altitude and low light pollution, this is one of the world's best locations for astronomers, as well as for casual stargazers. The skies are so full, it can be hard to pinpoint even the brightest, best-known constellations. For one traveller in my group, a Frenchwoman called Claire Delattre, the trip had all the elements she was seeking. "Of course this kind of trip is not for everyone," she conceded, "but I'm not looking for comfort. I want unique landscapes. It is in places like this that you remember your place in the world." Red Savannah (01242 787800, redsavannah.com) offers 14-day trips to Namibia from £6,885 per person. The price includes return international flight to Windhoek with British Airways, light-aircraft transfers, a Jeep Wrangler hire car, all accommodation, plus some meals and activities. Highlights include Etosha National Park, Puros Conservancy, mobile camping in Damaraland, Swakopmund and the NamibRand Nature Reserve. The company also has 15-day trips to Chile and Bolivia from £5,995 per person, including return international flight, a 10-night Explora "travesia" to Uyuni (see How to do it, above) plus two nights' b&b at The Aubrey boutique hotel, Santiago, and airport transfers. THE TESSELATED SURFACE CRACKLED UNDERFOOT. ODDLY, IT WAS STUDDED WITH THE CARCASSES OF BUTTERFLIES LCKI8KI8M<C EYEVINE; GETTY; PHOTOSHOT; ROBERT HARDING; MICHELLE JANA CHAN COUNTDOWNTO Shanghai The Biennale is generating fresh energy in a thriving city, finds Malcolm Moore, the Telegraph's China correspondent 5 REASONS TO GO Shanghai's art scene has been turbocharged by the wealth of Chinese collectors. For its ninth staging, the Shanghai Biennale (until March 31, 2013) has moved from the old Shanghai Race Club to the city's version of Tate Modern, the restored Nanshi power station (above) on the banks of the Huangpu river. The theme is a pressing one for China: how to progress from building infrastructure to creating a modern society. To see how art has regenerated a district, visit Tianzifang, part of the old French Concession that was unzoned and quickly filled up with artists' studios. Its tiny streets are packed with boutiques and cafes, and though many artists have moved, galleries remain: the Beaugeste (beaugeste-gallery.com) has contemporary photography. Communist party artwork is on show at Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Center (shanghaipropaganda art.com), a collection of posters exhorting the masses to greater feats and better behaviour; descriptions are in Chinese and English. Early mornings in Fuxing Park (105 Fuxing Zhong Lu) are a good start to a day; you will find tai chi practitioners and men taking caged birds for a dawn stroll. End the day with a cocktail in the Vue Bar at the Hyatt on the Bund (00 86 21 6393 1234, shanghai.bund.hyatt.com); it has the best view of the city, looking east over the skyscrapers of Pudong and west over the Bund, with the Huangpu river between. 4 RESTAURANTS Culinary genius is on display at Jia Jia Tang Bao (00 86 21 6327 6878), at 90 Huanghe Lu, near Beijing Lu. Queues form to watch women create Xiaolongbao, delicate soup dumplings. Each one holds pork, sometimes crab, and a spoonful of broth – take care not to break them in the eating. Shunxing (00 86 21 6213 8988), at 1088 Yan'an Xi Lu, near Panyu Lu, is a Chengdu tea house transplanted to the coast, and the best place to sample Sichuan's searing cuisine and enjoy an acrobatics act. Off the beaten track is the enormous Xibei Oat Noodle Village (00 86 21 5875 2999), at Hongxin Plaza, West Wing 5F, 762 Tianshan Lu, near Gubei Lu. The Chinese voted its home-made yoghurt the best dish in Shanghai, and joints of lamb and home-pressed tofu are also on the menu. Among the best Western restaurants is Mr & Mrs Bund (00 86 21 6323 9898, mmbund.com), at 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Book ahead: its playful menu (try Picnic Chicken) means it is almost perpetually full. 'When you're there at night, with all the lights and all the modernity, it's like a movie set' In last month's Shanghai Masters, Andy Murray was beaten by Novak Djokovic at the Qi Zhong stadium. As the city has featured in many acclaimed films, it's no surprise that it's a regular stop for the film set – from Scarlett Johansson and Pierce Brosnan to Jackie Chan, Zhang Ziyi and the celebrated Chinese director Zhang Yimou VISITORS' BOOK (00 86 21 6888 1234, shanghai.park. hyatt.com) is not only the world's highest hotel, occupying the 79th to 93rd floors of the World Financial Center, but one of the most refined and quiet places to stay. Ask for a view over the river towards the city centre. For Art Deco elegance, and the glamour of the old French Concession, opt for the 30-room Mansion Hotel (00 86 21 5403 9888, chinamansionhotel.com), which has a great position in the middle of town. The Puli (00 86 21 3203 9999, thepuli.com) is a sleek, "urban resort", with more than 200 spacious rooms, a knockout restaurant and an inviting spa. Bérénice Marlohe, Bond girl in Skyfall 3 HOTELS The 174-room Park Hyatt 2 ESSENTIAL READS Unlike Beijing, Shanghai is a walking city. Take with you a copy of Six Shanghai Walks, written by five expatriate women, and get to know the history of the city while strolling along its streets, lined with plane trees. For those who want to know more about China's turbulent modern history, one of the greatest books about the Cultural Revolution is set in Shanghai. Life and Death in Shanghai by Nien Cheng (pictured on book cover, right) is an autobiographical tale of the horrors of the 1960s, which still resonate in Chinese life today. MAP TANIA WILLIS; 4CORNERS; ALAMY; REUTERS was Asia's busiest port. The granite buildings once housed banks and trading houses, the British and Russian consulates and the Shanghai Club (now the Waldorf; right). Today the finance district is across the river, but the Bund has been revamped into a wonderful urban park and is home to some of Shanghai's finest hotels and restaurants. Its name comes from the Hindi word for embankment; the Chinese call it Waitan, meaning "outer bank". 1 BRITISH INSTITUTION The British built the Bund in the late 19th century, when Shanghai NEED TO KNOW WHAT SHANGHAI IS ON CHINA'S EAST COAST, AT THE MOUTH OF THE YANGTZE RIVER. THE WORD SHANGHAI MEANS 'ON THE SEA', BUT THE CITY – OF 23 MILLION PEOPLE – IS SO FAR INLAND THAT YOU CAN'T SEE THE COAST. WHEN THE PLACE FREEZES IN WINTER AND SWELTERS IN SUMMER, SO VISIT IN APRIL AND MAY OR SEPTEMBER TO NOVEMBER FLY WITH BA (DAILY) OR WITH VIRGIN ATLANTIC (SEVERAL TIMES A WEEK) FROM LONDON. LCKI8KI8M<C JAMAICA SAINT LUCIA ANTIGUA BAHAMAS ONE OF A KIND SUITES O N E O F A K I N D E X P E R I E N C E Millionaire Suite with Private Pool & Whirlpool at Sandals La Toc Golf Resort & Spa, Saint Lucia MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PL ANET Sandals Luxury Included® resorts has created suites so exotic and romantic that they're called "Love Nests". These secluded escapes are nestled in the most beautiful settings and set apart from the main resort for the ideal romantic rendezvous. Considered the most unique suites in the Caribbean you can choose from up to 27 room categories per resort. From the one-of-a-kind Rondoval Suites – bungalows "in the round" – and the bluff-top Millionaire Suites offering 180-degree ocean views, to romantic SwimUp Suites with private access to a secluded lagoon pool and of course Personal Butler Service. Love is all you need, the rest is Luxury Included®. TO BOOK THE WORLD'S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk See your local travel agent Scan for more details WORLD'S LEADING ALL INCLUSIVE RESORTS 16 YEARS RUNNING Visit sandals.co.uk for full terms and conditions. ABTA & ATOL protected. Screen grab The film-costume and fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee in the suite he created intelligence ULTRA EDITED BY LISA GRAINGER SUITE DREAMS Ultratravel's guide to the world's most sumptuous hotel rooms BOLLYWOOD COMES TO TOWN CINEMA SUITE 51 Buckingham Gate, London Taj Suites and Residences (020 7769 7766, 51-buckinghamgate.com) Opened November 15. Price From £5,100 a night, all-inclusive, sleeping up to four. Size 1,832sq ft. USP It's not often that a fashion and film-costume designer is given free rein and an expansive budget to create a fantasy world of his choosing in a hotel room. But so impressed was Taj Hotels by the creations of Sabyasachi Mukherjee that they gave their most impressive London room to him to make over. It's now the most decadent of the hotel's 86 suites and apartments, with the Quilon restaurant and the Spa at 51 across the pretty cobbled courtyard, and a private butler on hand 24 hours a day. The details Mukherjee is a rare designer in that he admits he is "not that interested in international trends" or fashion followers – "people without purpose who are seduced by the dictates of designers". What he is interested in is textiles – in particular those handmade in India, using age-old techniques – and films, hence the feel of the decor in the Cinema Suite, which is part Merchant Ivory, part Bollywood. The two bedrooms are small but opulent (all silks, fine wools and gold and rose tones, furnished with antiques), the vast living room, dining room and study are decorated with rich detail: walls of vintage plates, original paintings framed in faded velvet, lampshades covered in 18th-century Indian embroideries – and enormous antique images printed on to wallpaper. Even the details in the dining room and kitchen are carefully chosen, from a carefully curated collection of old plates and silver cutlery to vintage Baccarat glasses. Mukherjee's intent, he says, "was not to create a place filled with stereotypical cinematic images but one where you get that rich feeling that only cinema can create, of stepping back into the past, a better place". Not everything is antique, though: toys include a high-tech Crestron electronic lights and blinds system, and a vast surround-sound 3D Panasonic television for in-house movie nights (the suite has a library of books, music and 100 films personally chosen by the designer). 3 OTHER HOTELS WITH NEW DESIGNER SUITES The Dorchester, London The grand parkside suites have been totally revamped by French designer Alexandra Champalimaud, and now feature sumptuous furnishings, original art and silk wall-coverings (£3,798, thedorchester.com). Tcherassi Hotel & Spa, Cartagena The seven suites by Colombia's best-known fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi mix old stonework and high-tech toys; the penthouse has a rooftop pool (£260, tcherassihotels.com). Viceroy Maldives, Vagaru Island Each of the new 61 slick villas, designed by the Toronto design studio Yabu Pushelberg, overlooks water. The three-bedroom Royal Villa is 4,370 sq ft: the Maldives' largest (£7,770, viceroyhotelsandresorts.com). LCKI8KI8M<C JOE PLIMMER TRAVEL BY NUMBERS Going private San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge in the Dolomites. Inset: its owner, Stefano Barbini THE TREND D RETURN OF THE TRAVEL SHOP espite a rise in internet bookings (two out of three travellers research holidays online, according to Travelport), the old-fashioned high-street travel shop is far from dead. Last month two large travel companies opened stores in prominent London spots: Kuoni in John Lewis on Oxford Street (with openings this year in Cardiff, Southampton and Reading) and Abercrombie & Kent in the City. The A&K opening, says Katherine Gershon, its global sales and marketing director, is a response to customer demand. "When people are spending a lot of money, they want an interactive process," she says. "If you are booking the ultimate holiday, you want it tailored by someone who knows exactly what you want." For the cash-rich, time-poor customer, there is a Nomad shop attached, "which can sort out your entire Arctic kit bag or your safari outfit", as well as a travel clinic, where a nurse can give vaccinations, offer advice and prescribe malaria tablets. According to Fiona Harris, Kuoni's director of brand development, the demand for personal service has become so great that Kuoni has expanded its own travel shops from three to 21 in the past three years. By the end of 2013 it will have considerably more in John Lewis stores. These spaces are nothing like the travel agents of old, but "more like a mini Hotel du Vin", she says, "with lovely sofas, Percentage rise in Russians holidaying in Montenegro, compared with just 3 per cent for tourists as a whole 28 Amount in dollars spent last year on luxury goods and experiences 1.4 trillion 273 3 NEW WAYS TO TRAVEL IN LUXURY For similar mountain seclusion in the western Italian Alps, the refurbished six-bedroom Chalet Lo SKI IN STYLE IN THE DOLOMITES Miéte in the Val d'Ayas has a chef, sauna and hot tub (hotelleriede mascognaz.com; from €1,920). space during sleeping and, when upright, the seat is wing-backed for added privacy. Available on all Heathrow to Hong Kong flights from February 2013, from £3,189 return (cathaypacific.com). Number of Michelin-starred restaurants within an hour of Osaka, Japan 1 The Dolomites are well-known for their top-end hotels. But until now, private retreats offering superluxury were thin on the ground. Hence the appeal of the San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge, a 16th-century former hunting lodge that takes rustic chic to a new level. Near the top of a mountain, with sensational views, it's half an hour's drive (or 10 minutes by helicopter) from the ski slopes, and totally private, with an accomplished cook and one of the best wine cellars in the Südtirol. The four beautiful rooms showcase local craftsmanship, from embroidered sheets and cashmere throws to fragrant soaps, handmade with local herbs. There is a sauna and steam room, a masseuse on demand, a heated outdoor pool, and activities from paragliding and rock-climbing to foraging in the forest with the owners, Stefano and Giorgia (who also offer cookery lessons). Sleeps eight (plus four children), from £2,010 a night (sanlorenzomountainlodge.com). Distance in miles over which the Olympic flame will pass through Russia in 2014 before the Winter Olympics THE BOOK 40,389 award-winning theatre producer, Phil Cameron spent a great deal of time in airport lounges. Dismayed by the lack of comfort they offered, in 2007 he opened his own, under the name No 1 Traveller, at Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted, and, last month, Birmingham. His aim, "to provide an affordable premium service, not luxurious decadence", translates into lounges with an à-la-carte WATCH THE WORLD FLY BY menu, business centre, games room, cinema, free bar and showers. For those in transit who want a good sleep, rooms can be booked at Heathrow from £20 an hour, and beauty treatments enjoyed at a spa. Additional services include Fast Track passes, and a chauffeur service at what Cameron calls "Addison Lee prices": about £70 from London to Heathrow. Lounge passes, bought online or at airports, cost from £17.50 (no1traveller.com). 3 BECOME A LOUNGE-LOVER As an Emmy and Tony 2 An aircraft seat (above) that has won worldwide acclaim is at last available to travellers from London. Seats in the new Cathay Pacific Business Class Cabin, which was named World's Best Business Class at this year's Skytrax Awards, are set at an angle to allow passengers to look out of the window, and turn into some of the longest flat-beds in the air (6ft 3in). A retractable armrest increases From a grand ballroom in Hong Kong to a cool cafe in Finland, Eat Shop Drink (£24.99), by Philip Jodidio for the Architecture Now! series, captures some of the world's most eye-catching architectural creations, each relating to three of life's greatest pleasures. SOUVENIR SEARCH champagne and coffee, plus Apple Macs and iPads. Although it seems counterintuitive in the age of social networking and computers, what people want is to talk to someone they trust in comfort." What clients also love, according to Leija Graf, the CEO of Select Collection, whose service is based on face-to-face consultation, is a shop filled with beautiful pieces from abroad. Her showroom in Mayfair (above) not only has a stuffed ostrich to stroke and glass jars filled with sand from far-flung beaches (pink from Harbour Island in the Bahamas, white from Mozambique), but shelves of exotic souvenirs, from alpaca blankets from Peru to hand-painted African jewellery. "For many of our clients, travel is like a treasure hunt," she explains. "It's a search for perfect moments, precious memories and objects to take home. What we try to do is give them all three." DELIGHT IN A SILVER BOX Since the first lokum (or Turkish delight) shop opened in Istanbul in 1776 – as legend has it, for a sultan whose teeth weren't up to hard sweets – the confectionery has become one of Turkey's most successful exports. While Haci Bekir (hacibekir.com.tr) is the oldest shop in the city, the loveliest wrappings are to be found at Lokum (lokumistanbul.com), whose sweet squares are presented in toile-deJouy and silver boxes adorned with handmade tassels. Good news for those not jetting to Istanbul: Lokum has opened in London's Walton Street, with chic black and white decor by Anouska Hempel. LCKI8KI8M<C ADVERTISING FEATURE South Tyrol WHERE SNOW MEETS DESIGN South Tyrol, the most northerly province of Italy is a land of contrasts. Set against the stunning UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site Dolomites, now considered to be one of the world's most beautiful mountain ranges and boasting a host of Mediterranean and Alpine influences, it is easy to see why South Tyrol is Italy with a Twist. For the discerning skiers, there is simply no better destination this winter. Home to Dolomiti Superski – the world's largest ski network with 1,200km of slopes and the Sellaronda – a 26km tour around the peaks of the Dolomites - skiers and snow lovers will be spoilt for choice. The area offers excellent down hill and cross-country options for skiers and snowboarders of all levels and for less experienced skiers, there are over 60 ski schools to learn or hone your basic skills. The Dolomiti Superski is a truly impressive network and it couldn't be easier to discover. With one ski pass covering the whole zone, it is access all areas – making it an adventurous and high value ski break destination. Add to that guaranteed snow on 90% of the slopes and 300 days of sunshine a year and South Tyrol is a winter playground with a myriad of possibilities. Ski accommodation in South Tyrol is unique and also brings a refreshing twist. No Alpine kitsch will be found here, and instead visitors will find progressive, stylish design and architecture with an individual feel and a bold, modern aesthetic. In recent years the whole region has seen a significant rise in design properties and this is undoubtedly as a result of South Tyrol's location which allows the perfect bridge between Alpine and Mediterranean – when it comes to culture, food and design. When it comes to design gurus, the design expertise of Matteo Thun has put South Tyrol firmly on the design destination map. Thun's best known landmark in South Tyrol is The Vigilius Mountain Resort. Sitting 1,500m about sea level, it is only accessible by cable car and Thun has used the dramatic surroundings of the Monte San Vigilio / Vigilijoch peak to marry together history, nature and innovation within the resort. For an in-depth look at how the two cultures are married together, a visit to The Museion of Contemporary Art in Bolzano is a must. The Museion is a glass and metal structure, which juxtaposes stark modernism with traditional low roofing and the architecture is a visual symbol communicating the city's historical centre in contrast to its more modern areas and of course nature, with the view of the and meadows across the Talvera River. South Tyrol gives every visitor an unforgettable experience when it comes to a winter break. Whether you're a snow bunny or looking to experience something unique, where contrasting cultures and landscapes meet in a harmony of the senses, you'll find it in South Tyrol – Italy with a Twist. HOW TO GET THERE Getting to South Tyrol couldn't be easier: catch a flight to one of the nearby airports in northern Italy or Innsbruck. To find out more, visit suedtirol.info/fly For more information read our new online brochure 'Dolomighty' at www.suedtirol.info/dolomighty IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE LADIES GOLF CUP 2012 A putt above the rest Moor Park, a magnificent venue for one of the summer golf days A putt above the rest Jayne Errington (above left), Chloe Rogers (above) and Ann Hynes (left), all Team England representatives. Main picture: Moor Park, where one of the four summer golf days took place All hail the queens of swing The four winners of the 2012 Ladies Golf Cup will play abroad at the World Final he Ladies Golf Cup, in its third year, attracted more than 400 women golfers at four separate golf days this summer at Moor Park and Brocket Hall in Hertfordshire and Burhill in Surrey. Each day's format is an individual stableford competition, with T RESULTS Moor Park, June 27 19-30 handicap category 1st place Aundrea Insinna, 36 points (Coombe Hill GC) 2nd place Hilary Lloyd, 35 points (Camberley Heat GC) 3rd place Chris Laffan, 34 points (Moor Park GC) 0-18 handicap category 1st place Jayne Errington, 36 points (Enmore GC) 2nd place Scynthia Larsen, 35 points (Coombe Hill GC) 3rd place: Audrey Rowley, 35 points (Army GC) Team England representative: Jayne Errington (on count-back) Burhill, July 16 19-30 handicap category 1st place Ann Hynes, 34 points (Burhill GC) 2nd place Tuula Kaminarides, 33 points (Pryford GC) 3rd place Caroline Cox, 31 points (Army GC) 0-18 handicap category 1st place Jo Brown, 32 points (Hadley Wood GC) 2nd place Georgette Van Schothorst, 30 points (Hadley Wood GC) 3rd place Rosie Downham, 30 points (Pryford GC) Team England representative: Ann Hynes Burhill, July 17 19-30 handicap category 1st place Margaret Beim, 34 points (Coombe Hill GC) 2nd place Sue Sheriden, 33 points (Hoebridge GC) 3rd place Patty Panizzo, 33 points (Coombe Hill GC) 0-18 handicap category 1st place Chloe Rogers, 36 points (Braintree GC) 2nd place Shannon Flynn, 34 points (Burhill GC) 3rd place Kirsty Cleland, 33 points (Malden GC) Team England representative: Chloe Rogers prizes for players with a 0-18 handicap and a 19-30 handicap. The ultimate prize is for the individual with the highest number of points to become part of a four-woman team that represents England at a World Final to compete against respective teams from Spain, Portugal, Thailand, India and the United Arab Emirates. Each day was hailed as a resounding success, with the quality of each venue praised by participants, who received a luxury goodie bag containing a pair of earrings from the title sponsor, Pandora, and products from Callaway, Rituals and Dorset Cereals, as well as a subscription to Women & Golf magazine. Hospitality was extended on Ben Lambourne, the event director, is pictured with the win ner at Brocket Hall, Nicola Clarke, of Cas tle Royle Golf Club. "The Ladies Golf Cup has grown into a truly recognisable eve nt in the ladies' social golfing calendar," he said. "The desirable venues and the luxury brand partners help to create a unique experience that cannot be matched anywhere in the country . I wouldn't be surprised if this is the firs t event female golfers put in their diary each year." Brocket Hall 19-30 handicap category 1st place Nicola Clarke, 43 points (Castle Royle GC) 2nd place Soo Ying Foster, 38 points (Brocket Hall GC) 3rd place Kay Wardley, 37 points (Brocket Hall GC) 0-18 handicap category 1st place Rita Bristow, 37 points (West Essex GC) 2nd place Moira Sleeman, 37 points (Sandy Lodge GC) 3rd place Fiona Stubbs, 35 points (Castle Royle GC) Team England representative: Nicola Clarke DON'T MISS OUT! NEXT YEAR'S EVENT WILL BE BIGGER AND BETTER With extra dates added at superb venues around the country, more women will have an opportunity to enter one of the UK's premier golf events. See ladiesgolfcup.com and off the course, with complimentary drinks and snacks, a chance to sample and buy luxury chocolates from Paul Wayne Gregory, the bespoke chocolatier, and a well-earned glass of wine with lunch. The winners, Nicola Clare, Jayne Errington, Ann Hynes and Chloe Rogers, took home a Callaway travel bag to take on their trip to the World Final in Spain, plus a bespoke Ladies Golf Cup bowl from Inkerman. Tommy Hilfiger will kit out each player with a team outfit. On behalf of the leading equipment manufacturer Callaway, the former Ladies European Tour players Sam Head and Jo Mundy were on hand to offer tips and to organise a fun putting competition. For those women who were simply keen to improve their game or hone their skills, Callaway staged a unique day, the "Callaway Experience", at which women received tuition on putting and the short and long game, had lunch and played nine holes. LCKI8KI8M<C SMALL SHIPS – BIG EXPERIENCES WITH NOBLE CALEDONIA - BOOK BEFORE 31 DECEMBER 2012 AND SAVE £300 PER PERSON From Cuba to the Spanish Main A voyage from the Bahamas to Belize including a semi-circumnavigation of Cuba Aboard the MS Island Sky 25th January to 9th February 2014 Cuba is a beautiful and extraordinary place. Glorious landscapes, powder white beaches against a turquoise sea, delightful people and a lifestyle that is more 1930s than that of today. Very few cars travel the roads through the soft and gentle countryside, horse drawn carriages or pedal power are the order of the day. This is your chance to step back in time and enjoy the beauty of the landscape, the historic cities and take a rest from 21st century capitalism. Egg Island Nassau BAHAMAS Havana Cienfuegos Isla de la Juventud Tulum MEXICO Cozumel CARIBBEAN SEA Casilda & Trinidad CUBA Acklins Island Lamanai Belize City BELIZE With the MS Island Sky as our base, we can enjoy great comfort and excellent food as we navigate our way around Cuba, the surrounding islands and over Santiago de Cuba to Mexico and Belize to visit the ancient Mayan sites of Tulum and Lamanai. A flexible itinerary and knowledgeable onboard team enables us to make the most of each day, whether we are landing on remote beaches by Zodiac, watching out for whales or learning more of the history and culture of the places we are visiting. With just over 100 passengers, we can explore in small groups ashore and enjoy a convivial atmosphere onboard. MS Island Sky The MS Island Sky is one of the finest small ships in the world. With a maximum passenger capacity of only 114, the all-suite vessel has the benefit of unusually large accommodation, public areas and spacious outside decks. All suites feature a sitting room area and some have a private balcony. The spacious and finely decorated public rooms include a lounge, elegant bar, library and a single seating dining room. Outside there is a rear sun deck where meals are served in warm weather under shade, a bar and comfortable deck furniture. On the top deck there is a Jacuzzi, further observation and sun deck. The atmosphere on board is akin to a private yacht or country hotel and you can be assured that after a day of exploration ashore you will return to the comfort and peace of a well run and exceedingly luxuriously appointed comfortable small ship. The Itinerary Day 1 - London to Nassau. Fly by scheduled indirect flight. Upon arrival transfer to the MS Island Sky. Day 2 - Egg Island, Eleuthera Islands, Bahamas. This morning we will visit the uninhabited island of Egg. This is a perfect stop for our first Zodiac landing. The beach is simply stunning with excellent swimming and snorkelling. Day 3 - Acklins Island. This afternoon we will drop anchor off Acklins Island. There are only a few inhabitants on Acklins and they will give us the warmest of welcomes at the community centre. We will then have time to explore some of the island. Day 4 - Santiago de Cuba, Cuba. Set in an attractive bay surrounded by the impressive Sierra Maestra Mountains, Santiago de Cuba is a vibrant, cultured city that used to be the country's capital. We will arrive in the early evening and, since the city is renowned as a music lover's dream, we have arranged for a group of Cuban musicians and dancers to come on board after dinner. Day 5 - Santiago de Cuba. This morning our tour will commence with a panoramic drive through the city. We will also drive out of the city through lush tropical scenery to the Castillo del Morro which guards the entrance to the harbour, affording magnificent views. In the early afternoon drive out to the village of El Cobre to see the Virgen de la Caridad in the basilica and then enjoy an exclusive concert in the famous Case de la Trova. Day 6 - At sea. Spend the day relaxing onboard and perhaps attend a lecture. Day 7 - Casilda for Trinidad. The compact colonial centre of Trinidad is one of the most sublime in Latin America. The cobbled streets, terracotta rooftops and pastel coloured houses are a delight and we will spend the morning here exploring the town. Day 8 - Cienfuegos. Cienfuegos is a laid back maritime city with a lazy, tropical atmosphere. In colonial times it was known as the 'Pearl of the South', a name earned from its lovely location on a picturesque Caribbean bay. Explore the town including a visit to the botanical gardens. palaces to the 16th century Plaza de Armas, the oldest plaza in the city. Day 11 - Havana. This morning we will drive along the Malecon, Havana's seafront to Verdado. See the Plaza de la Revolution and the headquarters of President Fidel Castro and his Council of Ministers. After lunch visit Finca Villa Vigia, the former residence of Ernest Hemingway and today a museum. Day 14 - Belize City, Belize. We have an interesting day ahead as we travel inland to the ancient Mayan city of Lamanai (which translates to 'submerged crocodile'). From the nearby town of Orange Walk Bridge we board local boats for a wildlife cruise through mangroves, wetlands and forests. A short walk through the jungle brings us to the Lamanai Archaeological Reserve with its massive pyramids. Local guides will tell the story of this site which is the only Mayan city known to have been inhabited through every age of Mayan civilisation. Day 12 - At sea. Day 13 - Cozumel, Mexico. From the island of Cozumel we shall travel by boat to mainland Mexico. This morning we will visit the Mayan site of Tulum, perched 40 feet above the sea on a cliff. Day 15 - Belize City to London. Disembark after breakfast and transfer to Belize City for your indirect return flight to London. Day 16 - London. Morning arrival. Day 9 - Punta Frances, Isla de la Juventud. Located some 50 miles from Cuba's south coast, this attractive island is famous for its beaches, coral reefs and densely forested hills. Spend the day enjoying the beach and swimming and snorkelling in the magnificent waters. Day 10 - Havana. The three 'c's, colonialism, capitalism and communism have left their indelible mark on this historic city. On arrival in the afternoon we will focus on Habana Vieja (old Havana) which was once enclosed within fortified walls. We will explore its twisting, cobbled streets past both beautifully restored Baroque churches, castles and Prices & Inclusions Special offer prices per person based on double occupancy start from £6395 for a standard forward suite to £8895 for an owner's balcony suite, Suites for sole use from £9695. Price Includes: Economy class scheduled return air travel, 14 nights aboard the MS Island Sky on full board, with house wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner onboard, expedition team, shore excursions, gratuities to crew and whilst on shore excursions, transfers, port taxes, airport taxes. NB. Ports subject to change. All special offers are subject to availability. Travel insurance, visas and local departure taxes are not included in the price. Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure. Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk L ivia Firth is the creative director of Eco Age, a business that helps people live a more energy-efficient life, and the director of Brightwide.com, an online film festival that streams social and political cinema. A Doctor of Humanities, she lives in London with her husband (the actor Colin Firth) and two children. How often do you travel? Every school holidays, so probably five times a year, mostly to my house in Umbria. I love everything there, from the landscape to the food. It's simple, calm and relaxing – a contrast to our life in London, where we're always on the run. Where in the world would you return? A Kenyan camp called Rekero (asiliaafrica.com) in the Masai Mara, where we went with our friend and guide, Tim Melesi (timmelesi.com). Do you like adventure holidays? I like nature, but I hate posh safari camps, where it's rough and wild outside but luxurious and separate from local life inside. We like travelling with Tim partly because it is just us and his Jeep. You feel you're the only people who have ever seen that giraffe. Once we spent all day watching a leopard that had killed a wildebeest and taken it up a tree; the kids were mesmerised. We have TRAVELLING LIFE Livia Firth what they call in Italy mal d'Africa – when you are away from it, you long to go back. Where would you like to go next? Vietnam and Cambodia. I've seen both countries in movies, and spotted a hotel in Mr and Mrs Smith – a guide we like – that looks incredible. Are you a lover of luxury or simplicity? Luxury when I work; when you are busy, it's nice to be somewhere efficient and comfortable. On holiday I'm drawn to simple things, not fuss. Any luxurious places you'd go back to? Palazzina Grassi (palazzinag.com). Venice is a very intense city, complicated and crowded, and most hotels there are old and chic. Palazzina Grassi is modern and glam; for the Venice Film Festival, we had a room, overlooking the Grand Canal, which was soft, white and full of mirrors: very romantic. Lovely spots to visit in Venice? Burano, the isolated fishermen's island where the houses are painted different colours and the only way there is by small boat. You get the most spectacular fish you'll ever eat at a restaurant called Gatto Nero (gattoneroburano.com). The most glamorous hotel you know? Hotel du Cap (hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com), which has somehow hung on to the glamour that the Cannes Film Festival used to have. These days, the festival is jammed and chaotic. But back at the hotel, you suddenly feel like Grace Kelly. The most remote places you have been? Villages in Bangladesh, Zambia and Kenya, on trips with Oxfam. They're the most amazing I have been on, because it's just you and a backpack, and you go where most travellers don't. Those trips remind me of my gap year, sleeping in rough places but meeting incredible people and discovering how they live, what they do, how resilient they are. You carry their stories for life. The roughest place you've slept? A tiny town in Ethiopia, where they didn't have a hotel. I rented a room with no hot water, and slept in my clothes in my sleeping bag. Are you a natural adventurer? I have never climbed a mountain or been to the Amazon. But I love exploring, and knowing how people live. You enrich your life by meeting people who inhabit a different world. We all share the planet and, if you know someone else's problems, you can work with them and they with you. If I meet a woman in a Bangladesh factory, I'll understand more about her world. At the same time, she knows that someone is appreciating the eco fashion she is making. It works for us both. Favourite items bought abroad? I buy things wherever I go. I'm obsessed with cushions, so I usually have one in my suitcase. If I go to Africa, it's jewellery; I love Masai beads. In America, I often get something for the home, such as a candle or a rug. I enjoy going around our was from Scandinavia." It's like a scrapbook. Favourite boutiques abroad? The Frozen Fountain (frozenfountain.nl) in Amsterdam is great for interior design. In New York, Kaight (kaightshop.com) is an eco-fashion The green entrepreneur on simple safaris, eco-boutiques in New York and the most romantic hotel room in Venice angel, a charm which a woman in Kenya gave me for good luck, and a pin from my grandmother. Favourite restaurants abroad? Any trattoria in Rome that does local, simple food. I hate fussy food and elegant restaurants. Eating is about indulging your senses and having fun. My idea of hell is a stuffy Michelin-superstar place with what Colin and I call vertical food: piles of ingredients on top of each other. As an antidote to that, we often end up going for a pizza. Best city for a weekend away? Amsterdam. I love the spirit, the artists, the quirkiness and the shops, the kind you only find there. We love going in spring and cycling. The Hotel de Goudfazant (hoteldegoudfazant.nl), in a remote spot on a canal, is a warehouse that looks like a film set but serves delicious food. Favourite travel agent? We don't have one. We always book ourselves. Does your carbon footprint concern you? Yes, but I don't tend to offset flights, because the offsetting schemes seem to profit from people's guilt, and you never know whether the company is actually planting trees. Instead, I rarely eat red meat, I have an eco business, and I live my life in a way that's as carbon-conscious as it can be. Livia Firth is a global ambassador for Oxfam (oxfam.org.uk). Interview by Lisa Grainger house and thinking, "That was from Ethiopia, that boutique, while Matta (mattany.com), on Lafayette, stocks items from developing countries, such as mats from Africa. In Paris, I always head to Merci (merci-merci.com) for its bookshop, in a cafe. Best hotel in Britain? Other than the Firth Hotel, our house, which is always full of friends, the High Road House (highroadhouse.co.uk) in Chiswick, west London, owned by the same people as Soho House. It's so quirky, but comfortable, and you feel at home. Name your favourite luggage I never spend money on suitcases, but I can recommend Tumi's suit carrier bag, which you lay your clothes on – unfolded, so they don't get creased – and then close it like a sandwich and zip it up. I also have a little Samsonite wheelie. What's your wardrobe like when you travel? Black trousers, jacket and top. Whether I have to do business or go out in the evening, it works. Essentials in your handbag? My business cards, my Liz Earle organic concealer and lots of amulets: a ring I found in Africa, a little LCKI8KI8M<C SARAH MAINGOT / CELEBRITY PICTURES I love going around our house and thinking,'That was from Ethiopia, that was from Scandinavia.' It's like a scrapbook ASPINALOFLONDON.COM • 0845 052 6900 www.chanel.com FOR DETAILS OF AUTHORISED STOCKISTS PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7493 3836 Watch in white high-tech ceramic set with 54 diamonds (~1.4 carat). Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 50 metres.