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Outdoor Japan TRAVELER - Issue 44 - Summer 2012
Issue 44 of Outdoor Japan TRAVELER magazine, Summer 2012 from Outdoor Japan Media. For People who love travel, adventure, outdoors and active lifestyles in Japan
SUMM E I S S U ER 2 0 1 2 44 JAPAN TRAVELER Night Dancing with a Kyushu Sun Goddess FOOTSTEPS INTO THE PAST WORLD TRAVELER A Rare Micronesia's Gem Freeriding the Hidden Kingdom Historical Hikes in Kansai �� FIELDS OF DREAMS Inakadate's Tambo Art GeocachinG Summer Surf Guide Summer Beer Gardens ExplorE thE World of ACTION ADVENTURE OUTDOORS TRAVEL I N S I D E O J T R AV E L E R FEATURES Photo cover by Rob M. Dupuis 10 18 26 32 38 46 6 36 52 Inside Out Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess By Lee Dobson OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Inc. Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson Editor William Ross By Rob M. Dupuis Explore the World of Geocaching Footsteps into the Past �� By Matt Malcomson Business Development Director Luke McDonald Art Director Yuki Masuko Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Eri Nishikawa, Takashi Osanai Administration & Distribution Rika Yamada Illustration Eureka! Translation Daisuke Kondo, Kumiko Kurosaki Junco Mitsui, Takeshi Sato Contact Information: Outdoor Japan Inc. J-HANK Chigasaki B / 4-10 Heiwa-cho, Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0024 253-0024 4-10 Fields of Dreams Inakadate Tanbo Art By Gardner Robinson & Rika Cook Story & photos by Tim Rock Pohnpei: A Rare Micronesian Gem By Pat O'Keeffe Where the Trail Ends J HANK B Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213 Editorial: email@example.com Advertising: email@example.com Subscriptions: email@example.com Comments: email@example.com OJ Creative: email@example.com www.facebook/japantraveler www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan By Craig Yamashita 53 54 Cycling Japan By Takashi Niwa Summer Overload Tour of Doto, Hokkaido High Tide Sailboats By Mitsuharu Kume Japan Angler By Abdel Ibrahim Going Out On Top The Local Brew By Bryan Harrell Outsider Brewing �2012 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN. 4 From the Editor Contributors, Columnists & Cohorts 8 Race and Events Spotlights Kanagawa & Shizuoka 56 Surf Guide 60 Summer Beer Garden 61 OJ Classifieds Lifestyle Directory Make deep turns. Ride your bike.Take a bath. Ride a wave. Hit the slopes. Climb something. Explore. SUMMER 2 0 1 2 3 FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief Contributors, Columnists and Cohorts `Now everyone can travel' Lee Dobson M Rob M. Dupuis T hese are interesting times for Japan travelers. This summer three low-cost air carriers will take off in Japan giving the old boys a run for their money. Earlier this year I was at a travel conference where a minister from Malaysia gave a presentation on the success of Air Asia, the Malaysiabased low-cost airline. In 2001, a group led by Tony Fernandes, a former TimeWarner executive, purchased the struggling airline for a token one Malaysian Ringgit (about �25). The catch was he also had to take the airline's US$11 million debt. Fernandes improved airline efficiency, crew productivity and launched an aggressive marketing campaign featuring promotional fares for as little as he paid for the company, one Ringgit. Astonishingly, Air Asia turned a profit in 2002. At the time, Malaysian Airlines had a monopoly on the domestic market, and the national carrier feared this upstart would pilfer some of its market share. In 2003, when Air Asia launched its first international flight to Bangkok, other regional carriers got nervous as well. Yet, Air Asia didn't steal passengers; it found new ones attracted to its no-frills service, low fares and motto, "Now everyone can fly." While companies all over Japan desperately hold on to antiquated systems, the airline industry here has a chance to show them the way, and they have the road map to do it. In March 2012, Kansai-based Peach Aviation, an ANA affiliate, became Japan's first budget airline. On July 1, Peach launched its first international flight between Kansai and Hong Kong. AirAsia Japan, also affiliated with ANA, will launch domestic flights out of Narita in August, and international flights in October. Meanwhile, Jetstar Japan, affiliated with Japan Airlines, begins domestic flights in July and will start international flights in 2013. With rates up to 50 percent less than full-service carriers, these new flights should boost travel to and within Japan at a time when the yen is stronger than ever, and so is the temptation to travel overseas and spend it. Affordable air travel in Japan is a refreshing step in the right direction, but should we stop there? Can bullet train tickets become more affordable? Can we finally abolish expressway fees? What Japan can take from the Air Asia story is that some people will try to hold on to their old piece of the pie with both hands. Those with vision will bake more pies, sell them for less, then open a new pie shop and help grow the pie market. We wish the new carriers in Japan well and hope you like our latest issue while enjoying the sizzling summer. Matt Malcomson Tim Rock Pat O'Keeffe Craig Yamashita 3 20123 ANA 71 - ANA 8 Mitsuharu Kume Bryan Harrell 2001 25 1100 25 2002 10 JAL7 2013 Takashi Niwa Abdel Ibrahim 2003 Now everyone can fly email@example.com 4 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 By Craig Yamashita Illustration by Eureka! Translation by Aya Aoki Summer Overload Everybody's favorite utility company is at it again, so Kanto area residents get ready to pay the price, literally. Summer energy saving measures will again be implemented, however the Beer Garden Urinal Turbine we proposed here will not. But we haven't given up! Here are some new energy saving innovations for you. You're welcome! Lightweight silicone outer Steam basket Mesh Crown Excess steam and water release Running Hat Steamer - Mesh crown with attached basket steamer allows you to steam healthy, nutritious dishes while you get in your exercise. After your run, just plate your delicious goodies without ever turning on your stove. Even a brisk walk to the station provides enough steaming power to heat up a pork bun! Mmmm mm! : The Solar Sandwich Man - These overlooked, but hearty workers can provide a needed service. Above the advertising board is a solar panel which generates power used to charge cell phones for a small fee. Advertisers get more eyeballs, sandwich man keeps the charging fees, panicky smart phone addicts get some more time to connect. Win/Win/Win. Big fan of Karma - Overpaid execs from everybody's favorite utility must now earn their salaries and bonuses. They will be required to perform beneficial services during the summer months in order to get paid. Each wave of the fan equals one yen, until their combined salary and bonus total is reached. 1 1 GET 1.1 3 1.3 2 1.2 4 1.4 "" 60 -- 3 �1,995 www.surfersjournal.jp 6 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 7 2 20 1 ER MM UE 44 SU SS I EVENT SPOTLIGHTS July 27-29 RACES & EVENTS Fuji Rock Festival `12 This three-day music festival in Niigata's lush mountains is simply Asia's top music festival. Dedicated Fujirockers make the pilgrimage each year rain or shine so see top international and homegrown artists. Location: Naeba, Niigata Details: www.fujirockfestival.com July 28 Sumida River Fireworks Dating back to the Edo Period, this is Tokyo's largest (in number) hanabi with more than 20,000 fireworks. Nearly 100,000 people come to enjoy the grand display. Location: Along the Sumida River near Asakusa Station Aug. 11 Tokyo Bay Fireworks The Tokyo Bay Fireworks feature about 12,000 fireworks launched from barges in the bay. Harumi Park, a 15-minute walk from Toyosu Station, is a great place to watch as well as the Odaiba area. Note the Rainbow Bridge is closed to pedestrians during the festivities. Location: Toyosu Station and Odaiba Aug. 17-19 Earth Celebration Each summer, the sleepy island of Sado-ga-shima, off the coast of Niigata, awakens to the sounds of the Earth Celebration. Kodo, Sado Island's internationally acclaimed percussion group, hosts this world music festival. Location: Sado Island, Niigata Details: www.kodo.or.jp RACE REPORT 26th Annual Mt. Tanzawa Bokka Ekiden Japan is famous for endurance runners and relay races. However, the people of Hadano City in Kanagawa Prefecture host one of the most interesting relay races around -- the annual Mt. Tanzawa Bokka Ekiden. This year's race attracted 120 four-person teams to the beautiful Hadano area to race to the top of Mt. Tanzawa. Racing up mountain trails to the summit may sound gruelling enough, but try it after someone stuffed your backpack full of rocks! Photographs by Luke McDonald Yes, in this race each team member must carry a stone-filled rucksack to check points where they pass the heavy cargo onto the next person. Male and female teams are divided according to the weight they carry, with 10-kg., 20-kg. and 40-kg. divisions. Although carrying rocks up a mountain may seem like a masochistic exercise (albeit good exercise), the rocks are put to good use by about 600 volunteers who use them to repair mountain trails so hikers can enjoy them all summer. OUTDOOR JAPAN ONLINE'S RACE & EVENTS CALENDAR 8 Summer is loaded with countless music festivals, exciting fireworks, festive beer gardens (see page 60) and outdoor races and events. Don't miss out on all the fun! Visit our Race & Event Calendar for more information: Web: www.outdoorjapan.com/race SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 9 Night Dancing and of a Kyushu By Lee Dobson 10 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 Stories Sun Goddess According to myth, Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, and her brother, Tsukiyomi, the Moon God, once soared across the sky together. After her brother killed another goddess in a fit of rage, Amaterasu, so disgusted by the act, chose never to be seen again with her sibling. Thus day and night were born. Perhaps this myth was born during an eclipse much like the one we saw on May 21. Perhaps the sun goddess and her brother put aside their differences once every so often. Amaterasu was also sister to Susanowa, the god of storms, who was prone to fits of violence and anger. Amaterasu, on the other hand, was renowned for her compassion and wisdom. She was an accomplished weaver, and it is from her that all of Japan's fine textiles were born. Susanowa, jealous of his sister, flew into a rage. He slew a young horse that was sacred to her, and hurled the carcass into her weaving room, destroying looms and killing one of Amaterasu's attendants. Furious by this thoughtless act, Amaterasu hid in a cave, refusing to come out. The earth plunged into darkness, crops failed, and things generally fell apart. 521 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 11 ur heroine's hiding place was found in southern Japan near Takachiho Town in Miyazaki Prefecture. The landscape in this part of Kyushu features lush greens, low peaked mountains and a stunning gorge filled with waterfalls and some of the country's most scenic shrines. The town is steeped in history. Takachiho Shrine was built more than 1,200 years ago. The giant surrounding cedars dwarf the pavilion, and it almost disappears in the shadows of the tall trees. It is also a place of religious importance, with a number of stories related in one of Japan's oldest books, "Nihongi" (Nihon-Shoki) set here. Takachiho is the birthplace of one of Japan's intangible cultural assets, yokagura or the "night dance." These ancient Shinto dances are held nightly from the end of November through the beginning of February. Thirty-three dances are performed each evening in selected local homes. Twenty-four yokagura preservation groups include about 480 dancers in total, called hoshadan, all members of the local community. Each of the 33 dances depicts a myth or legend, and four (the most popular) are played nightly at a playhouse in Takachiho Shrine. One dance tells the story of the god, Tajikarao, listening outside the cave believing Amaterasu to be hiding inside. A second dance depicts the goddess Uzume, the goddess of mirth, performing a rather bawdy piece to lure the sun goddess out of the cave. Evidently it had the gods laughing so loudly, Amaterasu could not help but peek out at the merriment. A third dance describes Tajikarao, renowned for his strength, seizing the goddess by the hand and pulling her out, before hurling the stone blocking the door all the way to Nagano. An interesting aside: the stone was called togakushi, which literally means concealed or hidden door. The town of Togakushi lies just outside Nagano City where the stone is rumored to have landed. The final dance, and possibly the funniest, tells the story of Izanagi and Izanami, the father and mother, not only of Amaterasu, but also of Japan. It depicts the creation of Japan, which seems to have occurred after or during a bout of drinking and lovemaking. Around 10 kilometers outside of town, we find Amano-Iwato Shrine. Here we can view the cave in which Amaterasu remained hidden. Priests lead viewing parties at regular intervals from the western pavilion. After a quick blessing, we are taken on a short walk to view the cave on the other side of the small river. No photos allowed here. From the western pavilion, we head east along a small path that follows the river. This leads to Amano-Yasugawara, a shrine housed in a small cavern. The gods gathered here to consult on how to get the sun goddess to emerge from her cave. O The gods gathered here to consult on how to get the sun goddess to emerge from her cave. A girl peeks into a cave in Mie Prefecure, where a similar story of Amaterasu exists. 12 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess 1200 112 480 33 33 4 10 20 15 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 13 Here, people seeking good fortune have built small piles of stones. Rumor has it, if you knock down one pile, you need to replace it with two. It is a very scenic place and considered to be a place of great power. Buses run regularly from Takachiho bus terminal to Iwato. Take the Miyako bus for 20 minutes, get off at Iwato, and from there it is a 15-minute walk to the shrine. No power spot is complete without negative ions to soak up, and the waterfalls in the gorge do their part. Takachiho-kyo (Gorge), near Takachiho Shrine, is lined with black lava walls that wrap themselves around the Gokase River. In summer the surrounding green flora offsets the black walls, and the almost aqua blue waters of the slow-moving river are picturesque. Here you can join the hordes and dip an oar in the water. While Takachiho can be visited all year around, it especially makes a refreshing retreat in summer amidst the lush green and refreshing coolness of the naturefilled shrines. While you are there, take the time to track down some Chicken Nan-Ban, a local fried chicken dish with a sweet-and-sour-like sauce. It is delicious. So what of our heroine? Fortunately for us, the sun shines (somewhere) daily, so as you can guess, the goddess was finally lured out of the cave. It was Uzume, the goddess of mirth, who finally coaxed her out. As depicted in the dance, Uzume danced a jig that left little to the imagination. This had the gods in hysterics, and Amaterasu succumbed to her curiosity and peaked outside of the cave. Unbeknownst to her, Uzume had hung a mirror outside the cave, and the unsuspecting sun goddess thought she was eyeballing her replacement. She stepped out further to confirm her suspicions, when Tajikarao seized her hand and pulled her out of the cave completely. He then hurled the stone as far away as Nagano (1,200 kilometers east), so Amaterasu could not hide herself again. The story carries significant importance in Japan, as the sun goddess is considered a direct ancestor of the emperor's family. It also serves as a reminder not to take anything for granted, because you just never know when the siblings may quarrel again. To make the most of the town and enjoy it fully, it is best to plan for at least an overnight trip. The night dance at the Takachiho Shrine is a must and, during the summer (July/August), the gorge is lit up. At the very least, it is a great place to relax and walk where the gods have walked. While Takachiho can be visited all year around, it especially makes a refreshing retreat in summer amidst the lush green and refreshing coolness of the naturefilled shrines. 2 0 1 2 14 SUMMER Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess 1200 7 8 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 15 Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess ESSENTIAL INFO While Takachiho is in Miyazaki Prefecture, the quickest access is from Kumamoto (Kumamoto City, Kumamoto Prefecture). The Shinkansen now runs regularly from Osaka (�18,020). Buses run from Kumamoto Station. Take the bus bound for Nobeoka and get off around three hours later in Takachiho. It costs about �2,300 one way, and you pay when you exit the bus. You can save a few hundred yen by catching the bus from Kumamoto central bus terminal and buying a return ticket (�4,000) from one of the dispensers there. 18,020 3 2300 4,000 GETTING THERE / : YOKAGURA / Yokagura dances are performed nightly from 8-9 p.m. at Takachiho Shrine. Tickets can be purchased at the door for �500. Tel: (0982) 72-2413. 8 9 500 : TEL: (0982) 72-2413 Kaminoya is a Ryokan in the center of town. It has good reviews and also serves local beef at dinner, which is very tasty. PLACES TO STAY / : USEFUL INFO / <Accommodation/ > http://kaminoya.jp/english/ < > http://takachiho-kanko.info <English> http://hometown.infocreate.co.jp/en/kyushu/ takachiho/takach-e.html Aside from rowing in the gorge, Takachiho offers Japan ' s southern-most ski grounds. Skiing is offered all year around, thanks to special plasti snow." " Gokase Highland Ski Grounds, call: (0982) 83-2141. Camping is available from April to November: Call (0982) 731212 for details. Amaiwado Spa offers a nice place to take a soak at a reasonable price of �400. It is a 15-minute bus ride and a 10-15 minute walk. Take the Miyako bus for Amaiwado and get off at Amaiwado Onsen. Call (0982) 74-8288. Closed every third Thursday of the month, or the following day should a national holiday fall on the Thursday. 0982 : 83-2141 4 11 0982 73-1212 400 1510-15 : ACTIVITIES / : 16 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 17 CHING GE O C A LORE THE WORLD OF EXP By Rob M. Dupuis 18 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 19 "Geez! Why can't we find this thing? It should be here." "I know!" "What' your radar reading?" s "Says we're standing within a meter of it." "Mine too. How about Google Maps?" "Says we're right on top of it. Maybe it's been muggled !" 1 20 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 EXPLORE THE WO RLD OF GEOCACHI NG t" is the size of a PET bottle cap. Actually, in many cases, it is a PET bottle cap. It may have been painted a rusty brown color, the exact shade of the lamppost to which it's stuck. Or perhaps it is painstakingly camouflaged and hidden under the big rock in the park by your house. You've probably strolled past it countless times; may have even brushed up against one, and you never even knew it was there. This little unseen container belongs to a clandestine world cleverly veiled to muggles, not unlike the wizarding world of the Harry Potter books--without the magic, but with all the excitement and adventure. Inside this tiny container awaits nothing more than a log book, a foot-long strip of paper wound tightly around a small chunk of toothpick and sealed in a small plastic pouch. The log does not contain anything top secret. Nor does it bestow upon you any wizardly ways. It is simply there to be signed. But, wow! The feeling you get when you do sign it? The rush that pours over you during that split second when you realize you've found it is unbelievable. Yet "I to understand just what it is I'm talking about, you have to find one on your own. So, quick, strap on some shoes (preferably of the hiking variety, unless you're smack dab in the city, and even then it's still not a bad idea), grab your cell phone, and join me as we pull aside the curtain and enter the wonderful world of geocaching. "Muggled? Nah, I doubt it. Veggiesalads' log says he found it just a few days ago." "Did you read the hint?" "There wasn't one." "Hmm. I'll check the logs again. Maybe someone added a hint there." "Good idea. I'll take another look at the photo gallery." Geocaching is the unusual, yet steadily growing pastime of hunting for, locating and logging the discovery of tiny containers, called "geocaches," hidden all over the world by adventure-seeking geocachers. Geocaching found its humble roots 12 years ago, thanks to the ingenuity and tech savvy of three guys in the American Northwest. (Thank you, Dave Ulmer, Mike Teague and Jeremy Irish.) One day in May of 2000, Ulmer, a GPS enthusiast in Beavercreek, Oregon, had a fun idea. He decided to take a bucket containing a few simple items into the woods of Oregon and hide it. He then marked the coordinates of the bucket's location and posted it to an online GPS users' group, challenging anyone with a GPS device to find it. (This was back in the day when cell phones were simply used to call people.) He had just one rule, which is still in effect to this day: "Take some stuff, leave some stuff." Later that month, Teague, another GPS enthusiast and the first finder of Ulmer's bucket, set up a mailing list for other finders of the buckets to share their experiences and the thrill of their discovery. Not three months after that, Irish, a web developer in Seattle, stepped onto the scene. After discovering Teague's website, he bought his own GPS device and soon caught the geocaching bug. In September 2000, with the help of Teague, he created Geocaching.com where, today, almost five million geocachers log their finds every day. " " " " " " 12 3 20005 12 5 1 TadVa 9 7 Wii CacheSense 30 Geocaching.com 1 " " 20009 Geocaching.com "" "" "" "" SUMMER 2 0 1 2 21 "Hey, take a look at this shot. It's called `Near the Cache'." "Okay... what if we stand in the spot the photo was taken." "That might work." "See anything?" My first peak behind the geocaching curtain came this past January, when friend, colleague and fellow resident of Nagoya, Tadd Vail (Geocaching Handle: TadVa), told me about this game he'd stumbled upon while surfing the net. At first I was skeptical. Treasure hunting in the city? Really? Then I thought about my two sons, Kai (9) and Rein (7), and decided it was worth a try. Heck, at the very least it would get us outside on a sunny Saturday or Sunday afternoon instead of stuck inside playing Wii. A week later, I downloaded CacheSense onto my BlackBerry (the 30-day trial, of course, because at the time I had no idea how much fun it would be), set up my free membership at Geocaching.com and soon found there was a cache in a park less than a kilometer from my apartment. It was that easy. The next weekend, my friend Atsushi and his family were visiting, so I invited them along on the hunt for our first geocache. Excitement was thick in the air. We were about to take our first step into a magnificent new world. About an hour later, our hands and knees soiled and our spirits dampened, we returned home with nothing to show for but a few stiff backs, a sliver and a growing doubt that geocaches really exist at all. Believe it or not, when you have absolutely no idea what it is you're looking for, it's extremely difficult to find. However, the seed had been planted, and we were determined to find at least one of these little buggers. Besides, I still had three weeks on my trial period. So, the following Saturday, a "NEAREST CACHES" search with CacheSense (now one of my all-time favorite time killers) revealed 12 geocaches hiding around Nagoya Castle. I told my boys to strap on their bicycle helmets. We were goin' huntin'! "Wait a second! Squat down. Take a look at the bolts on that bench." "One, two...there're five on this side. How many on that side?" "Four over here." "We found it! Woo hoo! Let's pop this baby open! TFTC!" "Sweet." The first geocache we found was in the Flower Plaza in the park adjacent to Nagoya Castle. (Geocaches are almost always hidden somewhere with a great view or some trivia-worthy history.) The description on Geocaching.com mentioned a "base to enjoy the flowers" and, after giddily watching the distance reading fall to a mere three meters on the app's radar, we found ourselves standing in front of a long wooden bench. Upon the bench sat two elderly muggles who soon took notice and asked what we were up to. Kai kindly told them we were treasure hunting, to which they shrugged and immediately went back to ignoring us. (It's funny, really. No matter how silly I've felt in public places reaching under park benches or peering into flower beds, this seems to be the common reaction by muggles in Nagoya: mild interest followed by instant indifference.) Moments later, my fingers swept across something under the bench that budged ever so slightly. Could this be it? "Kai! Rein!" I called in my loudest whisper. My heart began to race. I reached under the bench again and gripped the tiny plastic bottle cap. With a soft magnetic tug, I pulled the cache free of the bench, and we were gazing in wonder at our first find. Geocaches really do exist, and this little one had been hiding for nearly two years without ever being found by accident (which does happen on very rare occasions). I looked at my boys and saw my ear-to-ear smile reflecting on both of their faces. It may sound silly but, at that moment, I think we were all hooked. I immediately wanted to find another, and another, and 114 finds later I still feel that way. The thrill never seems to die; it only grows stronger (as is evident at www.cachestats. com where the leading geocacher worldwide is listed as having found more than 65,000 caches). My boys and I have even started planning to hide our own geocaches, complete with a Geocoin (see photo) for each son. Now you've had a peek behind the Geocaching curtain. The next time you're visiting Nagoya, head over to Shonai Ryoukuchi Park. Have a barbecue, ride the paddle boats, enjoy the view. Then, when no one's looking, slip behind the curtain and enter the wonderful world of geocaching. If you find a DupuisBoys cache with a Canadian Geocoin in it, do Kai or Rein a favor and move it closer to its destination: Grandma's house in Canada. 22 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 EXPLORE THE WO RLD OF GEOCACHI NG 1 3 Cachesense 12 "" " " 114 www.cachestats.com 65,000 1 "DupuisBoys" ...... !?TFTC (Thanks For The Cache ) SUMMER 2 0 1 2 23 EXPLORE THE WO RLD OF GEOCACHI NG GEOCACHING ON THE CHEAP GPS has become much more easily accessible to the masses thanks to today's high tech smart phones. No longer do you need to fork out tens of thousands of yen for a GPS device. Simply push a few buttons on your GPSenabled cell, and within minutes you'll have just about everything you need to get started. Android, Blackberry, and iPhone all support a growing number of geocaching apps, many of which offer free 30-day trials and multiple languages. Below are just a few examples. Android: As of this publication, Geocaching.com lists nine applications available to Android users. Groundspeak Inc., the company that owns and operates Geocaching.com, offers its own app for around �800 and has won the adoration of thousands of its Google Play users. Neongeo is also rated highly on Google Play and is "powered by Geocaching Live," which means you can access Geocaching.com securely from out in the field, and it costs a mere �327. Blackberry: The official app for Blackberry users is Trimble's Geocache Navigator. It's a powerful and easy-to-use app, and runs around �1,600. For those with a smaller budget, such as yours truly, CacheSense is an easy-touse app with all the necessary features at only �800. iPhone: The Geocaching app by Groundspeak Inc., available at iTunes, appears to be the hands-down app of choice for iPhone users, including my fellow geocacher, Tadd, who says, "It was the best 10 bucks I've spent in a long time." GPS GPS iPhone 30 Geocaching.com 800 Geocaching.com NeongeoGeocaching. 327 com 1600 800 iPhone iTunes iPhone 10 FROM THE TRAIL "What I like best about the hobby is that it takes me to places I'd probably never get to otherwise and, so far, they've all had either exciting terrain or interesting history and sometimes both. There's always the thrill of adventure. I set out with a sense of purpose, enjoy the anticipation of being on a treasure hunt and revel in the satisfaction of finding treasure. What's more is there is no limit to the treasures you can search for. The adventure always continues, and you get to see and experience new places all the time. Finally, it's the perfect activity I can share with my 3-year-old boy. It is father-son bonding in the great outdoors, right where I want to be, and for the most part, it's free." � Tadd Vail, Geocacher 3 GEOCACHING GLOSSARY Along with the thrill of the hunt and the pride of the find is a list of acronyms and lingo as long as my arm that you've probably never heard of. The full list can be found at Geocaching.com, but here are a few of the most common: BYOP: Bring your own pen. Most caches you'll encounter are so small, it's impossible to include a pen to sign the logbook. So remember to bring your own. CITO: Cache In Trash Out. Since 2002, this program has encouraged geocachers to help in cleaning up parks and other cache-friendly places around the world. Go to www.geocaching.com/cito for more info. DNF: Did not find. This acronym is self-explanatory and is by far my least favorite. Geocoin: Roughly the size of a �10 coin, Geocoins are like little plastic hitchhikers that are moved from cache to cache on their way to their ultimate goal/destination. Muggle: Someone who does not hunt for geocaches. As Geocaching.com's glossary states, "Geomuggles are mostly harmless." TFTC: Thanks for the cache. This is geocaching etiquette and is usually written in the logbooks and the online logs. Geocaching.com BYOP Bring Your Own Pen CITO Cache In Trash Out www.geocaching.com/cito DNF Did not find Geocoin 10 Muggle Geocaching.com TFTC Thanks for the cache 24 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 One Time plastic use... ...Life Time Ocean Pollution! Join our "Rise Above Plastics" Campaign! PC: http://fujisan.co.jp/pc/tsj-surfrider Mobil: http://223223.jp/m/tsj-surfrider www.surfrider.jp SUMMER 2 0 1 2 25 Of Japan's two great plains -- Kanto and Kansai -- the great western plain may not be as obvious a destination to get away from the city and enjoy a country walk. Yet, ringed by low hills and with some of the oldest trails in the country, you are spoiled for choice in Kansai. 26 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 Footsteps into the past -- historical hikes in kansai �� By Matt Malcomson ansai walks range from easy to strenuous day hikes, and all are within an hour's train ride if you base yourself in one of Kansai's great cities -- Osaka, Nara or Kyoto, and just a bit farther from Kobe. The trails are varied, with gentle country walks on the Yamanobe-no-michi, reputedly Japan's oldest road, to a demanding hike to the sacred mountaintop temple complex on Mt. Kya along the Choseki-do Trail. One thing each trail has in common is they are all steeped in history. The area south of Nara is known as the Yamato Plain and is home to several "firsts" in Japan. The first permanent capital, the first Buddhist temples, possibly the first Shinto shrine, as well as the first recorded road. The cities of Kyoto and Nara are rightfully known for being the center of Japanese tradition and culture, but the southern Yamato Plain is where it all started. The Yamato Clan gained enough power to unite a large part of Japan under its control. Early capitals were changed upon the death of an Emperor but, in the 6th century, Asuka became the first city to retain this status after the Emperor's death. During the Asuka Period, Buddhism was introduced to Japan, as was a centralized form of government by Prince Shotoku. The Yamanobe-no-michi (Yamanobe Road) is mentioned in the historical Kojiki and Nihonshoki texts, and it runs along the eastern edge of the Yamato Plain, from Nara to Sakurai, linking many temples, shrines and other sites associated with the early Yamato rulers. K 1 6 45 19 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 27 There are several keyhole-shaped tombs (kofun, ), huge earthworks surrounded by moats, burial places of the early Emperors (the Daisen-ryo tomb in nearby Sakai City is the largest burial mound in the world). The section commonly walked today is from Tenri, home of the eponymous religious sect, south to Sakurai. Well sign-posted, the trail is mostly flat and easy, though the full walk still requires four to five hours. The trail itself is varied, with many small village roads, paths that traverse strawberry fields, orchards of mikan (tangerines), walled villages and some of the oldest shrines in Japan. In Tenri, the wealth and influence of Tenri-kyo, a religion that started here in the 19th century, is clearly evident, with the huge buildings of the church headquarters and pilgrims' lodgings. Japan's first Shinto shrine is found in Isonokami, which houses a seven-branched sword given to the Yamato leader by a Korean prince, and probably dates from the 2nd or 3rd century. At its southern end lies Omiwa Shrine which enshrines Mt. Miwa rising behind it. It is thought to be one of the oldest, if not the oldest, shrines in Japan. There are no worship halls at Omiwa Shrine or its neighbor Hibara Shrine, as buildings at shrines were only introduced after Buddhism came to Japan. The two giant burial mounds on the Yamanobeno-michi are the tomb of Emperor Sujin and Emperor Keiko, the 10th and 12th Emperors according to legend. They are 240 and 300 meters in length, surrounded by a moat and are now thickly wooded. The Yamanobe-no-michi is about an hour by train from either Kyoto or Osaka. It's best to bring some snacks, as there are not many places to buy food along the trail, except at a restaurant about halfway along where you can try the local Miwa noodles. Moving forward about a thousand years is the Yagyu-kaido, a trail that connects Nara City with the village of Yagyu. This village was the home of the Yagyu Clan and its warrior-general Yagyu Munetoshi. He was known for his prowess in the Shinkage-ryu school of martial arts. The trail was used for hundreds of years by monks, farmers and warriors making their way between Nara and Yagyu. Starting in central Nara City near Kasuga Shrine, the trail climbs through a thick forest and is paved with old ishitadami stones. The contrast with nearby Nara is startling as you go deeper into the forest. There is a jizo (a statue of a bodhisattva), and near the first pass is a small house, where daifuku (bean cakes) and drinks are served. From here the trail leads past plantations of tea, small hamlets and thick forests of cedar. At the halfway point is Enj-ji Temple, with a garden and pond that were once part of a HeianEra paradise garden, as well as a statue of the Dainichi Nyorai carved by Unkei. Further on, in Yagyu Village itself, is Htokuji Temple, built to honor Yagyu Munetoshi, where you can see various pieces of armor used by the Yagyu Clan and handwritten scrolls. Also nearby is the Itto-seki, a large stone 28 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 23 10 12 240300 1000 9 100 67 UCC JASDA 9 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 29 that has been split in half. Legend has it Yagyu Munetoshi split the stone in half while fighting with a tengu (Japanese demon). To the southeast, in neighboring Wakayama Prefecture, is the Choseki-do, a trail that leads to Mt. Kya, a mountaintop complex of temples. Mt. Kya was founded by the monk Kukai (posthumous name: Kobo Daishi) in the 9th century, after time spent in China studying esoteric Buddhism. Its distinctive shape, with a bowl-shaped valley surrounded by peaks, represented the two mandalas of Shingon (True Word) Buddhism. The complex prospered, and today there still more than 100 separate temples. Half of them offer accommodation to visitors, in lodgings known as shukubo. The Choseki-do Trail leads from Jison-in Temple near Kudoyama Station on the Nankai Line, and it heads up steeply to the great gate (Daimon) at Mt. Kya. The name comes from the "cho" stone markers along the trail. As you hike upward, at first among the mikan trees for which this area is famous, and later among the dense cedar forest, it's hard to imagine most people take a train. There is a direct train from Osaka that makes its way slowly up a winding track until it reaches Gokurakubashi (Heaven Bridge), from where a funicular railway carries you up to Mt. Kya Station itself. There is a certain pleasure in getting off the beaten path, and making your own way up the trail, of course. The full hike takes about six to seven hours, but there are shorter options. Along the way are small villages that nestle in the steep valleys, and where you can board the train if you get tired of the hiking or need to get back to Osaka quickly. It would be a shame to hike up and not spend time exploring Mt. Kya, though. Okunoin, the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi (as Kukai is posthumously known), is magnificent. It is surrounded by the largest cemetery in Japan, the last resting place of many of Japan's great political and military figures. There is even an area where tombs have been erected by companies such as UCC Coffee (a giant stone coffee cup) and JASDA, the Japanese space agency (a stone space rocket). The Danjo-Garan is the center of Mt. Kya, where the founding ceremony was held in the 9th century and where the temple structures are located. It is also worth visiting Kongobu-ji, the headquarters of the Shingon sect, with its Banryutei rock garden. Getting There / The Yamanobe-no-michi hike starts at Tenri Station, reached by both JR and the private Kintetsu Line from Osaka, Kyoto or Nara. Sakurai Station, at the end of the trail, is also served by JR and Kintetsu. For the Yagyu Kaido, take a bus from Kintetsu Nara Station toward Shin Yakushi-ji Temple and get off before Nara s Women ' College. Walk east to enter the trail and end at Htoku-ji Temple in Yagyu, or shorten the hike by getting a bus back to Nara from Enj-ji Temple. The Mt. K ya Choseki-do Trail is reached by Nankai Line from Osaka's Nanba Station by getting off at Kudoyama lodgings that Station. Return from Mt. Kya Station to Osaka or stay the night at one of the many shukubo pilgrims' take bookings. JR JR Kansai Hiking Tours / Oxalis Holidays runs a variety of self-guided hiking trips throughout Japan, providing logistical support, but with the freedom to travel independently. Their trips include a selection of walks and hikes in the Kansai Region. For more information, visit www.oxalisholidays.com. Oxalis Holidays www.oxalisholidays.com. 30 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 31 ds of Fiel Inakadate Tanbo Art By Gardner Robinson & Rika Cook 32 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 eams Dr SUMMER 2 0 1 2 33 34 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 "I f you build it they will come..."This famous quote from the movie"Field of Dreams could just as easily be attributed to the locals in Inakadate, a small village in northern Japan. In the Hollywood version, Kevin Costner is inspired to build a baseball diamond in the cornfields of rural Iowa. s In Japan' version, the story unfolds among the rice fields in Aomori Prefecture where villagers have created their own dramatic scenes attracting scores of visitors each summer. It all started in 1993 with rice planting tours to give visitors the opportunity to experience traditional rice farming done by hand as it has been since the Yayoi Period (300 B.C. to 300 A.D.). Following those first tours, they began making a mural in the rice fields of one of Tohoku'most beautiful , s Mt. Iwaki mountains. To do this they used three kinds of rice; a a yellow rice , purple rice called murasakiine Tsugaru Roman and called kiine a local Aomori variety. , In 2002, to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the tours and the tanbo (rice field) art, the villagers created an original design of Iwaki-san and the moon, which won the Impact Award from NHK, landing the art in newspapers and on TV. The following year, they tried more complicated designs, including a mural of the Mona Lisa. People began coming from all over Japan to see these unusual creations, which . became known simply as Tanbo Art In 2004, they took their art form to another level, using designs that incorporated a perspective effect, making them more beautiful and three-dimensional when seen from viewing observatories. Inakadate attracted 30,000 visitors that year and 130,000 the following summer. In 2006, they added two new varieties of red rice in their design of the God of Wind and Thunder, and the next year 240,000 people came to see a design made after the famous artist Katsushika Hakusai. During the following two years, they added two which has new kinds of rice, yukiasobi white leaves, and the red-tipped iwaiakane They used five crops for their 2010 designs and . chose seven varieties in 2011. This year marks the 20th anniversary of Tanbo Art in Inakadate. To celebrate, two special designs have been chosen. Earlier this year, 1,200 volunteers methodically planted the seedlings using, for the first time, nine kinds of rice. The best time for viewing the beautiful creations is July and August. SUMMER cess The `Tanbo Art' Pro 1. Decide on a design. 2. Draw a sketch of the design. 3. Revise the sketch adding a threedimensional perspective. 4. Decide which varieties of rice to use in the design. 5. Create the design plan using CAD based on the sketch. 6. Draw the design on the rice field using surveying instruments. 7. Plant seedlings (the planting experience tour each year occurs on April 29). 8. Weeding and correcting any missed plantings. 9. Harvesting (Tsugaru Roman only, the harvesting experience tour on Sept. 30). 10. Harvesting other crops. GETTING THERE The fastest way to get to Inakadate Village from Tokyo is to fly from Haneda Airport to Aomori (one hour and 15 minutes), then take a bus to Hirosaki (60 minutes). From Hirosaki, take the Knan Tetsudo Line to Inakadate Station (24 minutes). If you rent a car from the airport, it is about a 40-minute drive to Inakadate. If you prefer not to fly, get on the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Aomori (three hours, 37 minutes), then take the u Line to Hirosaki (36 minutes) and then on to Inakadate Station. There are two Tambo Art fields, and both are about a five-minute taxi ride from Inakadate Station. The first field is on the east side of Inakadate City Hall, and the second field is located at the "Michi no Eki" at Inakadate Yayoi no Sato. ACCOMMODATION There are no places to stay in Inakadate Village. Visitors are advised to book at one of the hot spring hotels in Kuroishi or Hirakawa City business hotels in Hirosaki or City . 2 0 1 2 35 H I G H T I D E By Mitsuharu Kume Sailboats "D onburako, donburako." The Japanese words express the sight and sound of a large, heavy object floating by. All Japanese people know the folk tale of "Momotaro" (often translated in English to "Peach Boy"). According to the tale, "A giant peach floated � donburako, donburako - down the river." This peach must have been large since it held the small child inside. Yet although these words are hardly ever used in common speech, every Japanese person can imagine the scene depicted when hearing them. To m e , t h e w o r d s " d o n b u r a k o, donburako" also elicit the image of a yacht gently floating along the ocean currents and tossed among the waves. Here the words carr y a sense of adventure and dreams yet achieved. Most Japanese people consider yachting a pastime of the rich. The movies of our youth reinforced this, often featuring a man of substantial means hosting a young lady on his sleek boat. In reality, purchasing a large yacht costs a fortune and the docking fee alone is a princely sum. A sailboat, on the other hand, conjures up a less decadent vision. This smaller vessel pulled along by the strength of the wind isn't beyond the reach of the average person, yet the dreams and sense of adventure still fill the sails of a free wheeling sailboat. One day a sailboat car r ying some foreigners made land on the island where I live. They were taking a month to tour the southern islands of Japan in a used boat cheaply purchased on the main island of Honshu. They planned to sell their vessel in Okinawa at the end of their journey, then return to Honshu by plane. I wondered if many native Japanese people would come up with this same plan of adventure. Although we are born on a string of islands set adrift in the vast ocean, how many of us would consider touring the seas on wind power alone? Long ago Japanese fishermen relied on sailboats to bring in their catch. However, with the advent of powered craft most sailboats have gone the way of the dodo. Sadly, with them so goes the passing on of both tradition and skill. Since the nuclear accident in Fukushima, more people are looking toward renewable energy in Japan. Wind power is not only a clean energy; it can take us to new places. If the shores of Japan were to see sailboats floating by - donburako, donburako - more people would experience the power of nature and the tide would certainly be riding in Japan. 36 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 37 Pohnpei: A RARE MICRO Story & Rock photos by Tim 38 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 Island Beat Above and below the water, Pohnpei is a diverse island that remains unfettered by the trappings of mass tourism -- it is truly a Micronesian jewel. Japan Islands�Micronesia ONESIAN GEM SUMMER 2 0 1 2 39 Pohnpei: ohnpei's dragonback mountain range rises into the clouds forming a tropical rain forest. More than 40 rivers and 20 waterfalls, ranging from calm and pleasant to spectacular, are contained within the forest. Some are within an easy hike, while others take considerable effort and a good guide to find. The broad inner lagoon is pocked with reefs and blue holes and scribbled with channels broad and deep. Outside the lagoon sit two picture-post cardperfect atolls. It is to the North Pacific what BoraBora is to the South Pacific. Idyllic, lush and inviting. Coming in from the south, the United Island Hopper usually takes the grand tour circumnavigating more than half of the island before heading toward mighty Sokehs Rock, the Diamond Head of the Western Pacific. We touched down in Kolonia town, where a colorful crowd is normally at the airport to greet returning Pohnpeians and visitors. Here I rented a car and headed for the hill overlooking the harbor to Pohnrakiet. This is a village of people of Polynesian descent who hail from the outer Pohnpei state atoll of Kapingamaringi (Google that one). These folks are famous for their carvings made from mangrove wood and palm ivory, and their weavings made from palm and panadanus. Toothed sharks, woven sea turtles and flowing mantas are all fashioned by the creative woodworkers in this village. On this day I got lucky. An adventurous palm ivory nut carver had created a nice eagle ray, and I purchased it. Pohnpei may not be the traditional shopper's haven. There aren't any Gucci stores here, but handicraft addicts can blow through a bank account here with ease. P female and a white-bellied male. A mottled stingray also worked its way down the channel, kicking up sand and searching for mollusks. Lunch was at a nearby island, and we ate an unusual bento of fresh tuna, condiments and rice wrapped cleverly in a banana leaf that doubled as the plate. Our second dive was at Areu Wall, a great inner reef wall fed by currents. Here huge sea fans and soft corals thrive. But the most fun is exploring the deep cracks and crevices that have been cut into the wall over the centuries. Sponges, sea whips and lacey corals share the hideaways with billowy sea anemones and beautiful Notodoris nudibranchs. Dense black coral trees hold jittery longnose hawkfish. Some small caves are surrounded in soft corals. This is a relaxing dive that can vary in depth, but there is so much to see in shallow water, it tends to last for a while. It will definitely fill the macro folder for digital photo buffs. At tide change, people may see mantas feeding. This is a great place for divers and snorkelers. For the next few days, we returned to the passes and inner channels and marveled at the marine life. The diving here is uncrowded, and we were normally the only boat out. MANTA ROAD My hotel was out of town and in the jungle. Simply named The Village, it is rustic and classy in a wellcrafted package, and The Village has received its share of awards over the years as a haven for the eco-tourist. Each stilted and thatched bungalow sits in the jungle with its own special view of the northern lagoon islands. The social area is the open-air dining room and Tattooed Irishman Pub. A famous gazebo has been the watering spot for many a traveler over the years. Soon it was off to sleep with the fan quietly rotating overhead, the sounds of the jungle chirping away and visions of the Pohnpei reef planted firmly in my head. The next morning I set out with The Village's dive guide to head down to Manta Road. This is Pohnpei's conribution to the excellent manta sites in Micronesia, and one of the special attractions here is the resident family of mantas which includes some that are almost totally black. The divers gather at a cleaning station which has been designated a protected site to help preserve the manta behavior. Divers must keep their distance from the station, but the mantas still swim close by. On this day, we observed an amorous manta couple--a black 40 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 Island Beat 4020 Japan Islands�Micronesia Tattooed Irishman Pub 4 5 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 41 Pohnpei: THE ATOLLS Pohnpei also has two nearby atolls, Ahnd and Pakien, best explored when the ocean flattens after trade wind season, around April or May. It's not enough the island has some great walls, passes and reefs as part of its huge barrier reef lagoon. Offshore, it also has two amazing atolls for divers to explore. Ahnd Atoll's beauty, people tell me, can bring tears to the eyes. I must admit, it is stunning. A large pass, Toawoaioai Pass, opens to an inner lagoon with some of the most idyllic sand beaches in the Pacific. It is a snorkeler's paradise where the clear waters along the pass dropoff show coral beds and golden sea fans. Pakien Atoll is off the southwest tip of Pohnpei's barrier reef. There is no inner lagoon passage, so all diving is done on the outer reefs. A snorkel along the edge of the reef reveals visibility well over 30 meters. Below, schools of barracuda circle in the canyons. Ahnd beaches are accessible and idyllic. No one lives here, and the shores are sandy. The jungle is dense with lots of seabirds and even fruit bats flying overhead at all times. In the evenings, frigate birds circle the islands, coasting on the thermals that rise from the land. Ahnd's one major pass really attracts divers. They come here because the change of tides promises such creatures as sailfish, Pacific blue marlin, all sorts of rays, yellowfin tuna, and the list goes on. Sharks include some extremely large oceanic whitetips as well as silvertips and grays. Listen for dolphins in the waters as well. This can be a swift drift depending on the tide change (check the moon phase), so some drift diving experience is a prerequisite. As one has to cross open ocean to get to either atoll, visit here during the calmer summer months. Few people get to dive genuine Pacific atolls and these isles off Pohnpei's main island are an ocean world all their own. PALIKIR PASS A visit to Pohnpei must also include a dive at Palikir Pass, home to a school of at least 100 gray reef sharks who gather when the incoming tide changes. Giant grouper have been seen here, and schooling eagle rays frequent the pass mouth. This pass which, until recently was a well-kept secret surfing spot, now attracts serious wave riders when the swell hits. Palikir and the harbor passage are both world class surf spots that see many surfers visit in the Northern Hemisphere winter months. OUT OF THE WATER The island is lush and green. I took the time to hike up to the top of Sokehs Ridge where a panoramic view of the western coast of the island, Kolonia Town, the scenic harbor and Palikir Pass can all be taken in. It used to be a pretty tough trip up here, but the new cell phone tower means the old Japanese road up the ridge is now passable thanks to the FSM Telecom crews. One merely has to park the car at the base of the old road that runs above Sokehs Village. Then you hike up a rather steep incline to the ridgetop, pausing for a rest or two and a swallow of water along the way. Some friends had offered to hike up with me, but I wanted to go it alone, choosing to hear the chatter of the white terns, as they warned me to stay away from their jungle nests. I saw wild deer tracks in some muddy sections of the road as well. Once atop the tower area, the breeze blows and the vistas mesmerize. One can look at the rear of mighty Sokehs Rock, the island's most impressive landmark, and down on all of the reef passages. A couple of boats were headed out into the blue to perhaps fish or dive. Surfers headed on jet skis out to the surfable passes. On the way down, I noticed some work had been done in an area that was once a Japanese WWII defense enclave. I ventured over to find a huge complex has now been landscaped and planted with flowers. Old bunkers and building remnants can be entered and explored. Big gun emplacements are easy to reach. In town I found another fascinating collection of war vehicles. Behind the main hardware store in a grassy field there are a lot of WWII-era trucks and SUMMER heavy equipment. Next to them could possibly be the largest collection of Japanese tanks anywhere. Most are intact with tracks still on and gun turrets askew. I am told there are still more nearby in the jungle. One Pohnpei resident has even fully restored one of the tanks and occasionally drives it around his construction yard. The Pohnpeian people were occupied by the Germans, Spanish, Japanese and Americans for more than two centuries. Reminders of these eras are seen at the Spanish Wall at the baseball field, old churches and other remnants. But today, Kolonia is a bustling town, and the natural beauty of the island awaits the adventurous and discerning traveler. 42 2 0 1 2 Island Beat 30m Japan Islands�Micronesia 100 FSM 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 43 Island Beat Japan Islands�Micronesia GETTING THERE: Airlines. Pohnpei is serviced frequently from Guam and Hawaii by United DEPARTURE TAX: US$15 is payable on check-in before receiving boarding pass. Keep some extra cash; no credit cards are accepted. MONEY, BANKING: The U.S. dollar is the official currency. There are U.S. FDIC-insured banks operating in Pohnpei. Most major credit cards are welcome at most visitor-oriented businesses. Cash using credit cards at the banks and at ATMs can be found in Kolonia. TIME: The FSM spans two time zones. Yap and Chuuk are 10 hours ahead of GMT; Pohnpei and Kosrae are GMT +11 hours. TELECOMMUNICATIONS/POSTAL: There is a communication station run by the national government. The FSM enjoys modern, reliable telecom links worldwide. Internet services are readily available and faster than Chuuk. Most hotels have free lobby internet and some have internet service that can be accessed in the rooms. USEFUL INFO: FSM Visitors Board: www.visit-micronesia.fm Pohnpei Visitors Bureau: Tel: +691-320-4851/4823; E-Mail: email@example.com US$15 US U.S. FDIC ATM FSM 2 GMT +10 GMT +11 FSM : www.visit-micronesia.fm : Tel: +691-320-4851/4823; E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.com 44 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 45 Where the trail 46 SUMMER Free riding the Hidden Kingdom 2 0 1 2 WORLD TRAVELER ends By Pat O Keeffe SUMMER 2 0 1 2 47 he Upper Mustang District in Western Nepal is on the radar of most adventure travelers. However, due to high permit costs and the expense to get there, not all make it to this beautiful corner of the Himalayas. The area still remains culture rich without having all the tourist paraphernalia and infrastructure you find at other popular tourist spots in Nepal. I had tried several times, unsuccessfully, to organize mountain bike trips into the region. So it was by chance my old friend, Scott Lindgren, with whom I'd been on many adventures, contacted me asking for help putting together a trip to the Upper Mustang. Scott, an Emmy award-winning filmmaker, wanted to shoot a section of a new film on which he was he was working with Freeride Entertainment and Red Bull called "Where the Trail Ends." With the help of another good friend, a local operator in Nepal, we eventually secured all the T documentation and permits for entering the Upper Mustang Kingdom and the incredible terrain that would be the backdrop for the film. The mountain bikers I'd be guiding on this fat tire adventure included Red Bull rider Darren Berrecloth from Canada, American Cameron Zinc and Canadians Garret Buehler and Kurt Sorge. Flying directly to Jomsom from Kathmandu on a charter flight and up the Kali Kandaki Valley is an adventure in itself. As you glide up the valley floor and peer out of the windows, 6,000-meter peaks dwarf you on both sides. From Jomsom, it's just a short jeep ride to the entrance of Upper Mustang at the village of Kagbeni. This is a slight detour from the famous Annapurna Circuit that attracts trekkers from around the world. At Kagbeni, we loaded our gear onto donkeys and porters to start our trek toward Lo Manthang, scouting out spots for filming along the way. The stunning views of Nilgiri and Tilicho, two spectacular 7,000-meter mountains, shadowed us on our way up the valley where we camped at a village called Chele at an altitude of 3,000 meters. Although most of the group had been out on various far-flung adventures, this would perhaps be the furthest they had been without any modern amenities. Here they would be introduced to a bleak, yet beautiful landscape and a people with a rich culture who have learned to survive in this desolate environment. The landscape up here is simply breathtaking, with huge cliffs and bluffs worn down by centuries of erosion. The dry, arid conditions make it a brutal place to live for locals who expertly find the precious water that runs off the surrounding glaciers. Guided to water, it's amazing to see patches of green appear in this hostile environment. In winter, most of the locals move down to the valleys below to escape the extreme weather, leaving just a few to look after the houses 48 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 WORLD TRAVELER and some stock that gets left behind. From Chele we trekked over several passes where we captured some great footage on the way to Geling, another enclave with a stunning monastery perched on the side of a hill. The well-irrigated crops in the valley below put a bit of green into the brown, dusty surroundings. The group found some great lines to ride in the nearby hills. The locals watched in amazement at the routes these free riders were taking. Goats were the only ones who dared to use these trails, if you could call them that. Moving further up the valley toward the Tibetan border, we stopped at Tsarang, where a huge fivestorey monastery fortress is perched on the edge of the Kali Kandaki Gorge. At Tsarang, we shot more footage on the east end off the village and enjoyed the warm hospitality of the locals and their customs. Finally we crossed over a pass into Lo Manthang. Here, within the ancient walled town, the King of Upper Mustang has his residence. There are also some famous monasteries such as the three-storey Jampa Lhakhang, the red Thubchen Gompa with its massive assembly hall, the Chodey Gompa and Choprang Gompa. We based ourselves here for several days, making the most of the surrounding areas, including a trip up to Chhoser and the Jhong Caves where monks still lived until not so long ago. Running out of time, we hired trucks to drive us back down the riverbed of the Kali Kandaki to Jomsom, a trip not to be missed by intrepid travellers. It is seven hours of some of the roughest terrain you can imagine. The views going through the canyon will take your breath away; it nearly closes over you at one stage, allowing just a crack of light to sneak through. The drive through the riverbed can only be done in certain times of the year. When monsoon season starts, it is impossible to drive as the waters rage from cliff to cliff. We arrived back to Jomsom somewhat shaken up and keen to have a shower. Refreshed, we sipped cold beers while taking in the great views of Nilgiri, remembering the incredible experience we just had. The sights and sounds of the Upper Mustang were unforgettable and, with the help of some generous and knowledgeable locals, the trip was a great success; the permit money well spent. Although the riders on this trip were professionals pulling off some ridiculous maneuvers and seemingly pushing the limits of what was possible, the Upper Mustang has much to offer mere mortals as well. A moderately fit person willing to ride anything from challenging or technical ride single track to jeep trails can have a great time, and they will be able to experience a place where time has stood still for centuries, and cultural and natural beauty abounds. If you've dreamed of spinning some fat wheels in the Himalayas, it's time to saddle up and ride the Upper Mustang. SUMMER 2 0 1 2 49 ABOUT THE AUTHOR When not leading first descents down some of the world's craziest rivers or guiding mountain bikers in the Himalayas, Pat O'Keeffe lives with his wife and daughter in Hidaka, Hokkaido, where he runs Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures. He is also part owner in The Last Resort, an adventure retreat a few hours outside Kathmandu near the Tibet border. If you are ready to saddle up and explore the Upper Mustang Kingdom by mountain bike, contact Pat at Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures about an upcoming trip. Freeride Entertainment's "Where the Trail Ends" will be released in September 2012. WEB CONNECTION Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures: www.hoa-rafting.co.jp The Last Resort: www.thelastresort.com.np Where the Trail Ends: www.wherethetrailends.com 50 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 WORLD TRAVELER SUMMER 2 0 1 2 51 Gee eaaa fff f iii By Bryan Harrell cooo HHHHb GHHutt laa Outsider Brewing Kofu, Yamanashi Enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings of charming Hakuba in your own self-catered modern villa. Gakuto Villas are the perfect countryside retreat for weekend gataways and extended holidays. Come enjoy the fresh mountain air and pack in the outdoor activities. Then relax in the comfort of your new home-away-from home. ark Major, the founder of Outsider Brewing, is certainly no outsider to the beer world. In fact, this native of Australia has been running a successful pub in Kofu City, called The Vault, since 2003. What's more, this is the second bar Mark has operated in Japan. Based on the success of The Vault, in D e c e m b e r 2 010 h e ambitiously planned to open a small brewery by December 2011. After a few unexpected delays, Outsider Brewing opened its doors at the end of February this year, along with the brewery's pub, Hops & Herbs, on the second floor of the building. Mark also had the wisdom to hire one of Japan's most celebrated brewers, Toshi Niwa, as his brewmaster. Niwa is wellknown as the genius behind the distinctive and innovative beers from Hakusekikan Brewery in Gifu where he departed a few years back to become a brewer at Iwate Kura Brewery in Tohoku. Niwa now joins Outsider to create a new series of beers certain to become popular. Already, this list is full of tempting M selections, including Innkeeper Bitter Lager, Flanders Belgian White, The Counties Pale Ale, Bunyip Australian IPA, Drunk Monk Tripel and The Dark Side Imperial Stout. I managed to try the Bunyip IPA at a festival in April and quite enjoyed the sharp but quickly fading malty sweetness that balanced the strong hop bitterness. The Tripel and Stout w ill definitely draw attention as both are a hef t y 8 % a lcohol, but will no doubt earn fans because of their complex aromas and flavor profiles. The Hops & Herbs brewpub is in the capable hands of manager Mami Shinohara, a veteran of The Vault known for her cheerful character. The food menu is full of great matches for the Outsider beer lineup, including spicy potato salad, wasabi pizza and the Fujizakura pork sausage assortment. Hops & Herbs is open weekdays from 5 p.m. to midnight and on weekends and holidays from noon to midnight. For more details, see the Web site which has sections for both the brewery and the pub. check us out on Trip Advisor and Facebook www.gakutovillas.com Reservation Hotline: Japan +81 (03) 4577310 Hong Kong +852 8199 9281 Australia +61 (02) 8055 8193 IPA 2003 " The Vault " 4 IPA 2 2010 Vault The 2011 12 8 2 Hops & Herbs 2 17:00 12:0024:00 24:00 Outsider Brewing Hops & Herbs 1-5 Chuo 1-chome, Kofu City, Yamanashi 400-0032 Phone: (055) 225-2012 Web: www.outsiderbrewing.jp SUMMER email@example.com 52 2 0 1 2 4 0 0 - 0 0 3 2 1 1- 5 Cycling Japan: A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE -- ROUTE By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara Off-the-beaten-track Japan SHIRETOKO PENINSULA # 16 Abashiri Memanbetsu START! Tour of Doto, Hokkaido KUSSHARO LAKE AKAN LAKE HOKKAIDO MASHU LAKE GOAL! Nemuro NEMURO PENINSULA Kushiro The route covers about 230 kilometers. There are several direct flights daily from Haneda or Kansai Airports to Memanbetsu. From Nemuro, there is airport bus service to Nakashibetsu Airport. 230 1 SEE A DIFFERENT SIDE OF JAPAN SELF-GUIDED WALKING Discover Japan your own way - with a self-guided walking trip along the historic Nakasendo or Kumano Kodo trails! WALKING TRAILS Evocative village-to-village walking Riding (feels like swimming) through the wheat fields. + ACCOMMODATION + MAPS & DIRECTIONS Local inns with excellent regional cuisine Detailed route maps and step-by-step directions he biggest appeal of Hokkaido is its vastness--unmatched by any other part of Japan. Traveling by bike, you really feel that. This is especially true in eastern Hokkaido, or Doto, where scenery remains the same for tens of kilometers at a stretch and then changes dramatically. If you start your trip from Memanbetsu Airport in Zora Town near Abashiri, you will soon find yourself in the midst of one of Japan's largest grain belts. In summer, rolling hills patch -worked with golden wheat, white potato blossoms and plants of various colors will greet your eyes. Then, you cross over from Bihoro Pass to Koshimizu Pass and into the Konsen Plain where meadowlands are dotted with cowsheds. It is a pasturing country and, in fact, the area is more densely populated with cows than humans. Further south, the route will be running T a long t he shoreline, connecting sma ll fishing villages. On a clear day, you can see the Russian-occupied northern islands right across the strait. Be sure to visit Cape Nosappu before finishing your journey in Nemuro City. () Takashi Niwa's Yamamichi Adventure company has been renamed Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com). He offers many bike tours, both domestic and overseas. For other routes in Japan, please pick up a copy of "CYCLING JAPAN: 10 of the Best Rides, Vol. 1 by Takashi Niwa," at bookshops around Japan and various online stores. 20111 " " " "www.ncycling.com 10 vol.1 WIN A TRIP FOR 2 enter here enter here email@example.com 53 .jp SUMMER 2 0 1 2 Going Out On Top S ome buddies of mine who fish in Tokyo Bay and the Shonan area have been trying to get me to drop a little cash on a sea kayak for some time. Despite being a bit hardheaded about my fishing, I have to admit I'm a bit curious. I've seen a number of anglers and recreational paddlers pushing off from the beach near my house during the summer, and they seem to be having some fun. My interest in sea kayaking and sea kayak fishing grew after a conversation with Australian Graham Sayer. In May 2010, Graham started Viking Kayak Japan. The company is currently Japan's only manufacturer of Siton-Top (SOT) kayaks; all other brands are imported. According to Graham, kayak fishing on specially designed SOT fishing kayaks has been around in Japan for six or seven years, starting in Chiba and spreading throughout Japan. The main types of SOT kayaks initially used were American designs and not ideal for Japanese sea conditions. Although kayak fishing has been popular in the States for years, the majority of early adopters were fresh water lake fisherman using lighter flat-hulled models instead of slightly heavier "Deep V" models better suited for sea fishing. There are an estimated 5,000 kayak fishermen in Japan but, as Graham points out, it's hard to get an accurate count because all kayaks are imported under the same category. "In a fairly depressed recreational fishing market (compared with 10 years ago) kayak fishing has stood out and is trending upward," he says. SOTs have their advantages over sea kayaks or small boats. "Other than the obvious advantages of weight, ease of transport and being eco-friendly (the frames are 100 percent recyclable), SOT kayaks have a `scupper hole system,' meaning they self-drain, so they are nearly impossible to sink, even in high seas or heavy rain. You won't need a bailer or pump," Graham said. He also points out paddling SOT kayaks is easy, and they are so stable you can stand up on some models. While the kayaks allow you to stealthily explore waterways, they also allow you to have all your gear set out, just like you would on land when you go fishing. The main difference between buyers of sea kayaks and those purchasing fishing kayaks is the former generally make a purchase with an interest in paddling, while fishermen buy an SOT fishing kayak as they would a new fishing rod or reel�for the sole purpose of catching more fish. 54 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 So, where does Graham recommended paddling? "Most prefectures have a number of `must visit' areas suitable for SOT kayaking, for leisure paddling and fishing. Even Tokyo is full of canals used by kayakers. We have heard the area around the new Sky Tree is popular at the moment. Rivers, such as the Tama which empties in the ocean just south of Haneda Airport, are worth a paddle. "The Zushi and Hayama coastlines have some nice spots and, if you like lakes, the Fuji Five Lakes area is great. Further south Nagasaki and Miyazaki have some unreal spots for paddling and fishing as well. Viking Kayak also runs some tours in the Kawane Honcho area of Shizuoka Prefecture, especially beautiful in autumn." The biggest advantage to sea kayak fishing for me seems to be the ability to access points in the shallows that both shoreline and boat anglers can't. I can think of a dozen such areas along the Shonan coast alone that I reckon hold some lunkers at different times of the year. Maybe it's time to drop a little coin on a kayak of my own and see what fishing mischief I can get into. FEATURES OF MODERN `SOT' SEA KAYAKS � Well-designed models have deep keels that travel the full length of the hull, meaning a rudder is not necessary. � A wider, more stable platform than regular SOT kayaks. � Many designs allow for easy fish finder installation. Most kayak fishermen install a waterproof fish finder with GPS, so they can hunt for fish instead of just guessing their location. � Made with tough poly plastic that will withstand rough treatment such as banging into rocks and scraping along the beach. � Modern fishing kayaks are set out with flush mount rod holders as well as rod, camera and device holder dashboards. This allows the fishermen to have lures, rods, reels, tackle and bait set around them within easy reach. USEFUL INFO More information about Viking Kayak Tours can be found online at www.australiancanoe.com. Folks in the Kanto area who wish to try sit-in sea kayaking or SOT kayaking can ring Toshi Nagaoka at 080-50706779. He speaks English well and has tours in Izu and Zushi. Graham is happy to field any questions about SOT kayaking for anyone interested in trying in Japan. He can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.com or by calling 080-3689-5978. SUMMER 2 0 1 2 55 suMMEr aCtIvIty GuIdE EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturE Kanagawa Kanagawa's Shonan area is said to be the home of surfing in Japan and, with easy access to Tokyo and Yokohama, it is one of the most popular (and populated) surfing communities in the country. In general, Shonan covers everything from Zushi and Kamakura to the east all the way to Oiso and Yoshihama to the west. The area from Zushi to Enoshima has the most spots, although Kugenuma is most popular with longboarders, with waves rarely getting overhead high. Weekends and holidays are crowded but, if you can get up early, you'll find a fair number of offshore days and some nice waves. By Kuni Takanami ZUSHI & KAMAKURA lmost all the breaks in the Zushi and Kamakura areas are within walking distance from the train lines and Route 134. During typhoon season, expect the reef breaks to be turning on some good waves, some surfable for beginners, but others for experts only, so check first. The water is a bit cleaner on this side of Enoshima, as there are fewer rivers, but it is also more sheltered, so waves are a bit smaller. Yuigahama is good for beginners, although it may be closed to surfers in July and August when the umi no ie (beach house) opens. Shichirigahama is a one-kilometer beach with sand and reef bottom. The reef is covered with kelp, so it's fairly safe, although you might want to be careful at low tide and wear booties. The spots in front of First Kitchen and the parking lot are most crowded. The area takes anything from south, southeast, west and southwesterly swells. Best to talk to the locals for the best spots when typhoon swell is pumping, but they are notoriously unforgiving here, so obey the rules and definitely don't drop in. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 A KANAGAWA Chigasaki Fujisawa West Shonan Kamakura Zushi Point Name Osaki Kabune Tamishi Yuigahama Venus Caf�-mae Inamura Ubagaya Henoji Shichirigahama Loa Minegahara Kojiki Kamakura High School-mae Keifu-mae Koshigoe Fishing Port Enoshima Harbor Offshore Winds Level A N A N A NE B N / NE I A N / NW A N / NE I A N B N B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N B NW Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season MAY � NOV MAY � NOV MAY � NOV ALL YEAR MAY � NOV MAY � NOV ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR MAY � NOV ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR Facilities 134 Kamakura Zushi 2 1 14 13 12 6 5 4 15 16 3 11 10 9 8 7 17 Wetsuit DEC � APR: (you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY � NOV: 56 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 See our Surf Guide online at www.outdoorjapan.com/surf SURF GUIDE Reef 5mm Sand 3mm Bikinis Shower Rocks Semi-dry Boots Car park River mouth Short john Gloves Spring suit Head cap ICON LEGEND Boardies Toilet B Beginner I Intermediate A Advanced FUJISAWA ost of the surf spots in Fujisawa are within walking distance from the station, making it popular with city surfers. It's mostly sandbar beach breaks that work best on west to southwesterly swells. The main area is Kugenuma, with a big clubhouse, showers, caf� and beach volleyball courts. Longboarders flock to the mellow consistent waves and expect to be shoulder-to-shoulder with surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers on summer weekends, so be careful. Down the beach, Tsujido is a lesscrowded option, although a much farther walk from the station. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 M Fujisawa 134 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Point Name Offshore Winds Level I A Dairoku E B Suizokukan-mae NE B McDonald's-mae N / NE B Hikichigawa River Mouth N / NE B Skate Park-mae (Pool Garden-mae) N / NE B Hanchan-mae N / NE B Suehiro-mae N / NE B Shoyocho-mae N / NE B Tsujidou N / NE B Hashi-mae N / NE B 2nd Car Park N Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season AUG � OCT AUG � OCT ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR Facilities DEC � APR: Wetsuit (you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY � NOV: CHIGASAKI higasaki is home to Outdoor Japan's new office. Lucky for us, the surf community is home to some decent beach breaks. There's no shortage of surf shops or laid-back bars and caf�s to kick back in after a day at the beach or hang out at the Umi no Ie at Southern Beach in July and August. It's similar to Tsujido, but with a bit less swell. There is a bit of localism, but not to the extent of Kamakura or neighboring Hiratsuka. Chigasaki works best on south, southeast and southwesterly swells. Point Name Kuso shita Chisan Chiipa Park T-bar Shirakaba Shop shita Kabocha Offshore Winds Level I A N B N B N B N B N / NE B N B N B N Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR MAR � MAY MAR � MAY MAR � MAY Facilities DEC � APR: (you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY � NOV: C 467 129 1 Fujisawa Chigasaki 134 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 Wetsuit 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 WEST SHONAN n the west side of the Sagami River, Hiratsuka, Oiso and Yoshihama get some consistent swell and, on a good southwest swell, can produce some epic waves. Hiratsuka can get crowded with some unforgiving locals, so a better bet might be heading down to Oiso where the beach is closer to the station anyway, and surf around the Hanamizu River. There are some other locals-only points near Hiratsuka, but access is tricky, and it can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Point Name Offshore Winds Level B Namakon N B Surf 90 N B Sodegaura N B Pool-shita N B Nijigahama N B Hanamizu-gawa River Mouth N / NE B Resthouse-mae N / NW B Iso Kou-mae (Iso High School) NW B Tunnel's NW B Oiso NW B Genji NW B Yoshihama NW Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR Facilities DEC � APR: (you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY � NOV: O 255 271 10 1 9 Oiso Hiratsuka 1 4 3 2 8 7 6 5 Yoshihama 11 Wetsuit 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 57 suMMEr aCtIvIty GuIdE EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturE Shizuoka A warm climate and consistent surf in summer puts Shizuoka on Japan's surf radar. Beginner-friendly beach breaks are abundant, while there are plenty of reefs and river mouths to keep more experienced surfers happy. Getting slotted inside the green room (surf speak for getting barrelled) is common during the peak swell season from June to September. Beautiful landscapes with ocha (green tea) plantations cover the coastline and there are numerous onsen with oceanfront views in which to relax after a day in the water. By Kuni Takanami SHIZUNAMI AREA opular with beginners, Shizunami has a number of fun beach breaks within walking distance from the beachside campground. You will need a car to access Yoshida Kou up north and the southern breaks below Katahama. Most breaks prefer northwesterly winds and an easterly swell teamed with good sand banks. P 233 473 242 150 1 2 4 5 3 Shizunami 8 7 6 9 69 SHIZUOKA Nakatashima Maisaka Shizunami Omaezaki Usami 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 10 Point Name Yoshida Kou (Yoshida Port) Bros-mae Benjyo-mae (Toilet-mae) Megami-mae Teibou-yoko Katsumata Kawaguchi (Katsumata River Mouth) Kashima Katahama Sakai-kou (Sakai Port) Susuki Offshore Winds Level B NW B NW B NW B NW B NW NW NW NW W W / NW B I A B B B B Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 5 5 5 5 Bottom Peak Season MAR � DEC MAR � DEC MAR � DEC MAR � DEC MAR � DEC JAN � MAR MAR � DEC ALL YEAR MAR � DEC JUN � NOV Facilities DEC � APR: MAY � JUN OCT � NOV: JUL � SEP: Wetsuit (boots and gloves JAN and FEB) OMAEZAKI AREA S trong winds blow between October and April, making Omaezaki a popular windsurfing destination. The next few months give way to great surfing conditions at a variety of sand and reef breaks backed by scenic mountain views. Turtles breed on the shores and locals ask visitors to be wary of their eggs and always keep the beach clean. The local sashimi is incredible, and you won't regret treating your friends with a bag of Omaezaki locally grown green tea as omiyage (souvenirs). Point Name Offshore Winds Level I A Melon N / NE B Main N / NE B Saka-shita N I A Odaka N I A Butagoya-mae NE B Pension-mae NE B Secret NE B Sharkret NE B Kawaguchi (River Mouth) NE B Shark NE I A Sakukawa (Saku River Mouth) N / NE Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC MAY � DEC Facilities Omaezaki 11 150 10 9 8 241 357 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Wetsuit DEC � APR: MAY � JUN OCT � NOV: JUL � SEP: (boots and gloves JAN and FEB) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 58 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 See our Surf Guide online at www.outdoorjapan.com/surf SURF GUIDE Reef 5mm Sand 3mm Bikinis Shower Rocks Semi-dry Boots Car park River mouth Short john Gloves Spring suit Head cap ICON LEGEND Boardies Toilet B Beginner I Intermediate A Advanced IWATA / NAKATASHIMA AREA his long stretch of coastline is picturesque both in and out of the water, with good waves throughout the year except winter. A good mix of sand banks and river mouths, some you will have to explore on your own. Good eateries and onsen scatter the coast as well as a beachfront auto-campground, so take a couple days to enjoy this friendly area. T Hamamatsu 257 9 1 8 7 6 5 1 150 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Point Name Dori Toyohama Nishihama Samejima Komaba Godo Godo Kawaguchi (Godo River Mouth) Nakatashima Ichijyo Offshore Winds Level B N I A N I A N I A N / NW B N / NW I A N / NE NE N / NE N / NE I A I A B Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV JUN � NOV Facilities DEC � APR: MAY � JUN OCT � NOV: JUL � SEP: Wetsuit (boots and gloves JAN and FEB) MAISAKA / SHIOMI AREA G ood beach breaks with consistent swell; the main Maisaka breaks are strictly local breaks and much respect must be given when surfing here. Don't bother trying to learn at these breaks; instead make your way down to Okurato to enjoy fun waves free from heavy locals. All of these breaks like north winds and a good sand bank to perform best. 332 301 62 Maisaka 1 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 Point Name Maisaka Toudai-mae (Maisaka Lighthouse) Maisaka Main Arai Okurato Toilet-mae Kenzagai Offshore Winds Level N N N N N N I A I A I A B B B Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 Bottom Peak Season AUG � NOV AUG � NOV AUG � NOV AUG � NOV AUG � NOV AUG � NOV Facilities DEC � APR: MAY � JUN OCT � NOV: JUL � SEP: Wetsuit (boots and gloves JAN and FEB) IZU AREA he east side of the Izu Peninsula is home to white sandy beaches and clear warm water. The mountainous interior which overlooks the coastline is full of the area's other popular attraction, onsen (hot springs). A nice mix of reefs and sand breaks provide a variety of waves for every surfer. Izu is also one of the largest producers of wasabi in Japan; be sure to try it with the fresh, local seafood for a kick! T 1 Atami 1 Ito 414 3 2 Shimoda 136 8 11 10 9 6 5 7 4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Point Name Usami Imaihama Kawazu Prince-mae Jinja-mae Chuo (middle) Resteru-mae Tatadohama Iritahama Main Ohama Main Toji Offshore Winds Level I W / NW I NW B W B W B W B W B W B N B NW B NW A W / NW Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bottom Peak Season SEP � NOV OCT � FEB MAR � OCT MAR � SEP MAR � SEP MAR � SEP MAR � SEP ALL YEAR ALL YEAR AUG � MAR NOV � MAR Facilities DEC � APR: MAY � JUN OCT � NOV: JUL � SEP: Wetsuit (boots during the coldest months) SUMMER 2 0 1 2 59 suMMEr aCtIvIty GuIdE EvEry sEason a nEw advEnturE suMMEr BEEr GardEns Fun, friendly and festive! Beat the heat and celebrate summer at one Japan's outdoor beer gardens. Here are a few of our favorites, but find many more throughout Japan at our online guide at www.outdoorjapan.com/japan-summer-beer-gardens Photos courtesy of Mt. Takao TOKYO Mt. Takao Beer Mount YOKOHAMA (KANAGAWA) Open: July 5 � Oct. 8, Weekdays: 15:00 � 21:00; Weekends (and Aug. 13-17): 13:00 � 21:00 Price: �3,300 / �3,000 for 2 hours of all you can eat and drink Note: Enjoy the cool breezes and great views of Tokyo and Yokohama. Time can be extended and group booking for parties available. Tel: 042-665-9943 Web: www.takaotozan.co.jp/beermnt/index.htm Location: 5 minutes by foot from Keio Takaozan-guchi Station (47 minutes from Shinjuku), then 6 minutes by cable car. Aloha Table Hawaiian Beer Garden FUKUOKA (KYUSHU) Open: May 15 � Sept. 23, 16:00 � 23:00 Price: Hawaiian BBQ and all you can drink (90 minutes) for �2,600. Tel: 045-412-3339 Web: www.alohatable.com/beergarden/ Location: West Exit of Yokohama Station on the More's Department Store rooftop. Beer Garden TENKU World Festival Open: May 14 � Sept. 30; Hours: 17:30 � 22:00 Price: �3,800 / �3,500 all you can eat and drink. Tel: 092-712-4650 Web: www.fukuoka-kokusaihall.co.jp/tenku.shtml Location: West Japan Shinbun Kaikan rooftop. Near Fukuoka Tenjin Station West Exit. NAGOYA (AICHI) Open: April 13 � Sept 16, Weekdays: 17:00 � 22:00, Weekends and public holidays: 12:00 � 22:00 Price: Adult - �3,800 for 2.5 hours all you can eat and drink. Tel: 052-561-2831 Web: www.mai-ami.jp/information/ Location: Dainagoya Building, in front of JR Nagoya Station. HIROSHIMA Beer Garden Miami Hiroshima Mitsukoshi Beer Garden Forest Beer Garden Open: May 22 � July 22 & Sept. 1 � 22, Weekdays: 17:00 � 22:00; Weekends and public holidays: 12:00 � 22:00; July 23 � Aug. 31, Weekdays: 14:00 � 22:00; Weekends and public holidays: 12:00 � 22:30 Price: �4,000 / �3,700 for 2 hours all you can eat and drink, but you can buy per drink as well. Tel: 03-5411-3715 Web: www.rkfs.co.jp/brand/beer_garden_detail.html Location: 5 minutes by foot from JR Shinanomachi Station or Kokuritsu-Kyogijo Station (Oedo Line). Open: May 11 � Sept. 9; Hours: 17:00 � 22:00 Price: �3,000 / �2,700 all you can eat and drink. Tel: 0120-44-2741 Web: hwww.eebeer.com/ Location: Hiroshima Mitsukoshi rooftop; 1 minute from Ebisucho Station. OSAKA OKAYAMA Pool Side Beer Garden 2012 World Resort Kurashiki Tenmaya Beer Garden Open: May 25 � Sept. 30, 16:00 � 23:00 Price: Call for details. Tel: 03-6273-2262 Note: Enjoy the BBQ from the stylish terrace. Female DJs spinning every Friday and Saturday night (June � August). Web: www.salt-inc.co.jp/index.php?action=shop&shop=shopdet ail&id=14 Location: Next to Shinjuku Station on the roof of Lumine East (Lumine Garden 9). BBQ & Beer Terrace 130 Days Open: June 1 � Sept. 30, Monday � Friday: 17:30 � 21:00, Saturday: 17:00 � 21:00, Sunday and public holiday: 17:00 � 20:30 Price: �3,900 for 2 hours all you can eat and drink. Tel: 06-6872-9293 Web: www.hankyuhotel.com/hotel/senrihh/restaurant/ eaw9iexZo6/index.html Location: Senri Chuo Station South Exit, Senri Hankyu Hotel. Open: May 18 � Sept. 15 Price: �3,500 /�3,000 all you can eat and drink. Tel: 0120-217-034 Web: hwww.tenmaya.co.jp/kurashiki/pdf/beerbetu_kura.pdf Location: Tenmaya Kurashiki Branch rooftop, in front of JR Sanyo Honsen Kurashiki Station. SHIKOKU Open: May 8 � Sept. 23, Weekdays: 17:30 � 21:00; Weekends and public holidays: 17:00 � 20:30 Price: Adult - �3,300 all you can eat BBQ and drinks. Web: www.yaen.com/menu.php Location: On the roof of Shin Hankyu Building; 5 minutes from Hankyu Umeda Station and 3 minutes from JR Osaka Station. Kirin World Go Go! Clement Beer Terrace Open: May 24 � Aug. 31; Hours: 17:30 � 21:00 Price: �4,000 all you can eat and drink (limit 2 hours when crowded) Tel: 087-811-1117 Web: hwww.jrclement.co.jp/event/cat18/20125242012831.html Location: JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu 5F Beer Terrace, In front of JR Takamatsu Station. KOBE (HYOGO) Seaside Beer Terrace Aloha Table Hawaiian Beer Garden Open: June 28 � Sept. 10 (except Aug. 4), Weekdays: 18:00 � 21:30, Weekends and public holidays: 17:00 � 20:30 Price: All you can drink (advance ticket) �2,000 Tel: 078-325-8119 Web: www.kobe-orientalhotel.co.jp/beerterrace/index.html Location: Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel 3F Sea Side Terrace; 15 minutes from JR Hankyu Motomachi Station, 8 minutes by foot from Minato Motomachi Station (Kaigan Subway Line). 60 SPRING 2 0 1 2 OJ CLASSIFIEDS HOKKAIDO HOKKAIDO TOHOKU SHINETSU � HOKURIKU CHUBU � TOKAI KANTO KANSAI CHUGOKU � SHIKOKU KYUSHU � OKINAWA OUTSIDE JAPAN GEAR & SERVICES HOKKAIDO HOKKAIDO HOKKAIDO HOKKAIDO HOKKAIDO AOMORI Japow Tours is a rider driven guide company with a unique approach to off trail & backcountry snowboarding in the Hakkoda Mountains. www.htholidays.com Niseko's Finest HOKKAIDO NAGANO Japan Adventures inaka home Your Japan Hiking Specialists www.japan-adventures.com SPRING [DOT] GREEN AWARDS www.GreenDotAwards.com WINNER of 2 0 1 2 61 OJ CLASSIFIEDS IWATE HOKKAIDO TOHOKU SHINETSU � HOKURIKU CHUBU � TOKAI KANTO KANSAI NAGANO A space to relax and be at one with nature! Summer HAKUBA IN - Exclusive range of luxury cabins, chalets and apartments - Great range of summer activitives - Car and bike rentals arranged "Naka no makiba" rated 5th the most beautiful night sky in Japan. 5 min from Hotel APPI Grand y Heat Escape the Cit www.hakubaresort.com Hakuba Office : TEL (81) 0261 72 6663 firstname.lastname@example.com NAGANO NAGANO GIN DE W O ing from �2, he P at in the cool br ee r he ze me m of su KUBA HAR LOD G G NAGANO NAGANO Te l:( 02 6 Be at t 50 t ar erson per nig 0 Ster p ht ) (p :09 C ell Web: www.hakubapowderlodging.com -8 1 12 1) 85 1 0-1 47 NAGANO 62 SPRING 2 0 1 2 07 -9 9 ba ku Ha CHUGOKU � SHIKOKU KYUSHU � OKINAWA OUTSIDE JAPAN GEAR & SERVICES Lifestyle Directory NAGANO NAGANO NAGANO Stay and Play in beautiful Norikura Kogen with an adventure package at NORTHSTAR and the Halenoa Lodge. We offer a full lineup of Green Season Outdoor Fun and if your not so adventurous then you can still enjoy beautiful Norikura Kogen with a dip in one of the Onsens and some local Soba. GUIDED FUN � Beginner MTB Lessons with rentals � Guided MTB Tours � River Hiking UNGUIDED FUN � Road Biking to the top of Mt. Norikura � Trail Running / Hiking � Local Onsen (Hotsping) � Day trips to Mt. Norikura, Kamikochi, Matsumoto City & Takayama City Summer �8,500 Winter �9,500 (per person with meals) GREEN SEASON www.ridenorthstar.com NORTHSTAR outdoor adventures 4306 Azumi, Matsumoto-shi Nagano-ken Ph: 0263.93.1688 Long stay packages also available NAGANO NIIGATA NAGANO KANTO SPRING 2 0 1 2 63 OJ CLASSIFIEDS GUNMA HOKKAIDO TOHOKU SHINETSU � HOKURIKU CHUBU � TOKAI KANTO KANSAI GUNMA GUNMA SHIZUOKA Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul GET WET, GET HAPPY! Fuji River, The closest rafting spot to Tokyo Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo! Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos..... 0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp YAMANASHI NATURAL ACTION TEL 0544-65-1123 firstname.lastname@example.com http://www.naturalaction.co.jp SHIZUOKA IZU SHIMODA International License for SURF LESSON www.real-surf.com 64 SUMMER 2 0 1 2 CHUGOKU � SHIKOKU KYUSHU � OKINAWA OUTSIDE JAPAN GEAR & SERVICES Lifestyle Directory TOKYO TOKYO TOKYO TOKYO KANAGAWA KANSAI TOKYO KOCHI KANAGAWA KANAGAWA Shichirigahama, Kamakura www.easysurf.jp Phone: 0467-55-5702 CHUGOKU � SHIKOKU Tel/Fax: 0466-24-5381 www.soleilprovence.com OKINAWA SUMMER 2 0 1 2 65 OJ CLASSIFIEDS MICRONESIA HOKKAIDO TOHOKU SHINETSU � HOKURIKU CHUBU � TOKAI KANTO KANSAI CHUGOKU � SHIKOKU KYUSHU � OKINAWA OUTSIDE JAPAN GEAR & SERVICES MICRONESIA MICRONESIA BALI Feel at home... Enjoy the ride... NEPAL THAILAND Surf Guiding Surf Coaching Luxury Accommodation www.thechillhouse.com KOH LANTA KRABI THAILAND email: email@example.com www.pimalai.com Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. TAIWAN GEAR & SERVICES GEAR & SERVICES Office Network & Computer Support Database Development Website Development VoIP Telephone Systems Online Marketing www.showcase-central.info www.emissary.co.jp | 03-3365-1978 66 SUMMER 2 0 1 2


text:
Mark Shuttleworth: "Blasting Past" Apple and not Forgetting Windows
In his keynote at OSCON (O'Reilly Open Source Convention) in Portland (Oregon), Ubuntu founder Mark Shuttleworth talked about his vision of a future Linux.
"The great task in front of us over the next two years is to lift the experience of the Linux desktop from something that is stable and robust and not so pretty, into something that is art," Shuttleworth said. He called to developers to not just emulate Apple but to "blast past" on the design front. He praised the iPhone, saying that it was a "pure software experience", and pointing out the need for beautiful and elegant software. Having regular release cycles also helped software development he said.
At the same time, Shuttleworth opposed advertising banners in free software, saying: "I don't believe advertising will power free software applications; I think the emerging emphasis on services will help support that."
The Ubuntu founder also went on to talk about competitor Microsoft, calling on developers to pay attention to compatibility with Microsoft's products, even if they don't use them themselves, and that platform tolerance is necessary as many users work on multiple platforms.
Issue 175/2015
Buy this issue as a PDF
Code.org and College Board Team Reach Out for Talented High School Coders
New partnership will bring more and better CS training to US schools
A Peek Inside TeslaCrypt Ransomware
Criminals offer online help over Tor network
Mumblehard Still Spams
Sophisticated malware is still present on Joomla and WordPress sites around the world.
Launchpad Gets Git
Future versions of Ubuntu's code service will support the popular Git version control system used with Linux and other open source projects.
AMD Posts Code for Linux GPU Driver
New release marks the arrival of AMD's unified driver strategy.
30 Percent of New Server Equipment Goes to Cloud Infrastructure
A new study by IDC charts big changes in the big hardware market.
Windows Might Go Open Source
Azure CTO says Redmond has already considered the unthinkable.
Linux Mint Will Stay with Ubuntu
Lead developer quells rumors that the Debian version is slated for center stage.
Microsoft Frees Code for .NET Build Engine
MSBuild is now just another GitHub project as Redmond continues its path to the light.
Researchers Demonstrate Hack by Heat
Malware could pass data and commands between disconnected computers without leaving a trace on the network.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Forget password?
Remember Me
After its Sundance bow, filmmakers brought Johnny Depp aboard to voice a new narration. It continued to be fine-tuned as it made fest appearances at Berlin, Deauville and San Sebastian. More recently, the completed version played at
the Santa Barbara Film Fest.
"Watching the hypnotic, hitherto unreleased footage of Jim, John, Ray and Robby, I felt like I experienced it all through their eyes. As a rock 'n' roll documentary, or any kind of documentary for that matter, it simply doesn't get any better than this," Depp said.
Wolf said he remembers buying The Doors' first album and listening to it a dozen times in a row.
"Both sides. Every song. I've been a fan every since. This movie is a story of the band, but it is also an insight into a moment that will never be repeated," Wolf said.
The 90-minute doc uses footage shot between the band's formation in 1965 and Morrison's death in 1971, including footage from Morrison and Manzarek's time together at UCLA's film school.
The film's soundtrack will be available March 30.
Beug said film will open in select markets including New York, Los Angeles, Philadelphia, Chicago, Atlanta, Dallas, Seattle and San Francisco. The DVD will be released three months after that. Film also will air on PBS' American Masters series.
To read comments and participate in this story, please visit the Articles forum »


text:
The S.L.A.A. Women's "We Are Not Alone" Phone Meeting Group is a women only, telephone based group that is part of the Sex and Love Addicts Anonymous (S.L.A.A.) fellowship. Our primary purpose is to carry the message to the sex and love addict who still suffers, and help other women who are experiencing the same addiction find recovery in S.L.A.A. and let them know there is a solution.
Our group brings together women from around the world and combines the resources of individual women's phone meetings to carry out projects that would be difficult for a single telephone meeting to achieve.
The S.L.A.A. Preamble
Sex and Love Addicts Anonymous is a Twelve Step, Twelve Tradition oriented fellowship based on the model pioneered by Alcoholics Anonymous. The only qualification for S.L.A.A. membership is a desire to stop living out a pattern of sex and love addiction. S.L.A.A. is supported entirely through the contributions of its membership, and is free to all who need it.
To counter the destructive consequences of sex and love addiction we draw on five major resources:
- Sobriety. Our willingness to stop acting out in our own personal bottom-line addictive behavior on a daily basis.
- Sponsorship/Meetings. Our capacity to reach out for the supportive fellowship within S.L.A.A.
- Steps. Our practice of the Twelve Step program of recovery to achieve sexual and emotional sobriety.
- Service. Our giving back to the S.L.A.A. community what we continue to freely receive.
- Spirituality. Our developing a relationship with a Power greater than ourselves which can guide and sustain us in recovery.
As a fellowship S.L.A.A. is not affiliated with any other organizations, movements, or causes, either religious or secular.
We are, however, united in a common focus: dealing with our addictive sexual and emotional behavior. We find a common denominator in our obsessive/compulsive patterns, which transcends any personal differences of sexual orientation or gender identity.
We need protect with special care the anonymity of every S.L.A.A. member. Additionally, we try to avoid drawing undue attention to S.L.A.A. as a whole from the public media.
©1985, 2003, 2012 The Augustine Fellowship, S.L.A.A., Fellowship-Wide Services, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
The S.L.A.A. Preamble is available as a PDF download from the S.L.A.A. Fellowship-Wide Services (F.W.S.) website.