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Have you tried a Guerlain at all?
Hello all,
I just joined a month ago, but have been following and getting great reviews and ideas from basenotes for abt 2 yrs or so. So this being my first post, I hope you don't find it controversial with the title, as each person has his / her own fav parfum / cologne and with good reason.
That said, I own a fair bit of niche and top end parfums from most of the top parfumers. I grew up in India where my grandfather's friend was a maker of ether based fragrances and later on had the chance to sample a lot of the newer manufacturers of oil and alcohol based wood / oud / floral fragrances in India - very raw to begin, but very pure to the end.
Now to my topic - started using Amouage line a few yrs back and I am unable to compare it with any other fragrance around - their fragrances to me are the highest level and any other parfumer around the world can only aim to reach Amouage's level. The purity, character and quality of almost all their parfums are mind boggling and takes time to understand.
Current day parfumers who come close (but well below) Amouage's level's in my opinion will be Malle, MKK & Lutens / Montale, in that order. While Amouage's line tends to middle eastern vibes / oud based, having owned / sampled from almost all the Western parfumers / exclusive collections etc, I am unable to consider Amouage at the same level...
Have you tried a Guerlain at all?
I can't believe I haven't tried any Amouages yet....
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I have and own their Vetiver, Mouchoir, Habit rouge, have sampled Derby, Heroes and a few more of their older classics, a few exclusives among them as well - I like them very much and they are definitely excellent parfums, no doubt...However, to choose one over probably a million existing parfumss is difficult and to me Amouage seems on top of everything else I have sniffed / worn...
Last edited by Oupavoc; 21st January 2013 at 02:49 AM.
Amouage is no doubt a stand alone in the industry. Top notch in my book!
Is the juice worth the squeeze?
Aha, looks like you have your winner
Amouage have certainly impressed me with some of their scents, despite falling short of my admittedly very high expectations with Lyric Man. I can understand the love for this house, admire their bringing Middle-Eastern scents to the relative mainstream, and would very much like to try their attars.
That having been said, there are no Amouage fragrances that I think are head and shoulders above everything else out there.
I'd sooner spend the cash on a bottle of Iquitos, a bottle of Egoiste and either Cuir d'Arabie or Cuir Mauresque.
Glad you found love in the Amouage line but if it is indeed as superior as you claim, you will not find it necessary to knock down other niche lines nor will it require a controversially phrased thread title. Every style of fragrance has its merits. I'm sure nobody is foolish enough to claim a classical symphony to be the best piece of music ever composed not, when there are equally enjoyable counterparts in the other styles incl. rock, jazz, blues, pop, etc. Often it's simply a matter of personal preference.
Welcome to Basenotes. I'd encourage you not to stop at Amouage. Imho greater knowledge always brings one a healthy dose of humility.
AUSSIES, join our exclusive niche split club.
Currently splitting:
Amouage - Tribute, Homage and OPUS VII
Andy Tauer - Noontide Petals, Miriam and Loretta
HdP - Veni, Vidi, Vici and Rosam, Ambrarem, Petroleum
The Different Company - Oud Shamash, Oud for Love and Aurore Nomade
Guerlain - Sous Le Vent, Angélique Noire, Bois d'Armenie, Cruel Gardenia, Rose Barbare
and many more niches up for split...
Well said & I totally agree...My intention here was to see the reactions from the many basenoters because of the way I wrote the forum - no intention to ever put down any of the parfumers or to annoint amouage as # 1, although my subject does say so.
I felt that the way I started this forum or the subject line will bring out the best reactions from the basenoters who have their own favorite's & why they disagree with Amouage's line...
I just started collecting less than 2 yrs ago and every day, the most difficult decision I make is to choose which parfum / cologne to wear. They are all great in their own way...With the 70 odd that I have, I actually will not say Amouage's my # 1 choice, it'll be in my top 20 though...
Apologies if the title hurt anyone...
Last edited by EndlesslySurprised; 21st January 2013 at 04:24 PM.
I wouldn't say they are the best out there, but they do have some of the nicer fragrances out there. I searched around for the best incense fragrance for a month or so only to loop back to my first love, Memoir Man. I also really dig Jubilation XXV (own a 10mL decant), but I find it hard to wear due to its opulent nature.
Amouage, like most other houses, has its winners (Jubilation XXV, Memior Man, Lyric Man), and ones that would be better used for self-defense (Interlude Man).
Some incredible fragrances to pick from, but Amouage alone certainly would not cover all my needs/desires.
Seasonal favorites:
1. Xerjoff - Nio
2. Creed - Aventus
3. Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver
4. The Different Company - De Bachmakov
5. Dior - Homme Sport 2008
6. Montale - Aoud Legacy
7. Creed - Virgin Island Water
8. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
9. Creed - Original Cologne
10. Clive Christian - 1872 for Men
I think people often make the mistake of thinking their favorite is also "the best." That's silly. There's no shortage of brilliantly crafted perfume, even if it isn't to each of our particular tastes.
Anybody have a sample of Martin Margiela Untitled or Untitled L'Eau? I'm dying to smell these and I've got lots of great niche samples to swap!
"Follow your nose. It always knows." -- Toucan Sam
The old Amouages (Gold, Ubar) were indeed a notch above most others in terms of richness, whether one liked them or not. But I feel Amouage has been watering down its masterpieces, in part in response to IFRA, in part, I presume, in a process of Creedification. It is also spitting out too many perfumes, and quality control (that is, batch variation) seems to be as bad as that of their Creed model, at least for the attars.
I've not tried many from the line, but reading about Amouage on several blogs, I get the same impression as you do. There are many comments now saying the dreaded; They used to be good.
So something happened, an that something seems to have affected the older fragrances as well as the new ones. People are mentioning lack of potency, lack of depth. It could be because of a need to follow current regulations, or substituting top notch materials for cheaper alternatives to increase profits; they are in this to make money after all.
Was personally never impressed with any in the line I tried.
Although I really love Amouage and own a few of them they move along the same line, just like hearing blues records all the time, I agree with you Lutens is great and worth the cost, but if you try Guerlain or some YSL vintage you won't regret it at all, some vintage designer juices put the whole niche scene to shame!
sailing the Oceans of Boredom...
First of all, Amouage are greats scents. Period.
But, before comparing an Amouage/Malle/other niche fragrances each other, compare it with the old scents from the past.
Try compare an Amouage with Patou pour Homme (1980), Paco Rabanne (1970) , Monsieur Rochas (any vintage) only to name a few .
These "old" perfumes are "on par" with Amouages, and can be purchased at a fraction of the price .
This subject thinks that nothing produced today can match the timeless sophistication and impeccable contstruction of the perfumes created by Jacques Guerlain and Edmond Roudnitska. When you smell things like Mouchoir de Monsieur, Shalimar, Eau d'Hermes or Eau Sauvage, you get a feeling that they were perfected upon for a long time. Reason for this is most likely that they were.
Amouage indeed is exceptional, i've visited their factory, and have seen some of the ingredients, no doubt - very good price/performance ratio, unfortunately i've only liked Epic Man and Opus VI, others although were excellent..just a tad too opulent for me, it remains to be seen as i am keen in sampling BELOVED MAN,Tribute and Homage Attars Soon.
Last edited by benzganesh; 21st January 2013 at 07:52 AM.
It's all relative really. Whatever trips your trigger.
As someone who has purchased Amouage in the past I am sorry to say that in my opinion this line has lost its way.
I don't have a signature fragrance. My signature changes a little bit every day, why shouldn't my fragrance?
^- That.
And I also have it on good account that the attars take less work and are far less complex than the EDPs. Those who think the EDPs are all junk and the attars are great, that's fine, but know that it's not that more work or effort is put into the attars. I love the house and actually like the way their newer scents seem to be 'more focused' than the earlier, baroque compositions such as Gold.
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Amouage is truly a great house but personally I still find other lines and/or perfumes that are definitely at the same level if not, occasionally higher...Puredistance, O'Driù, JAR, countless Guerlains, some Chanels, some Lutens, Malle, Patou, Vero Profumo...way too many.
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unfortunatelly i love Amouage, but the classics like Gold, Ubar,Jubilation 25, Dia a bit, Interlude for w. is yummie, but can be replaced though...i adore attars , i dont know any house that makes such potent pure perfums as they do....
i dont like when pure parfum is only skin scent, with amouage you get the real thing....and i like arabian perfumery style without many oakmoss....but if i were a man ..i dont know their male scents dont knock me down at all!! smell ordinary like other houses...but its true all their perfumes smell very natural....do they put more of natural ingredients?? its really great house for women ...they do seem to be easier available then high end of Serge Lutens...or Guerlains! at least in my country, thats why i love them so much!
Amouage's fragrances are mediocre at best in the perfumery world. Common! Are you talking about the house that create "Reflection of Le Male"?
I get your point and I have to agree that some Amouage fragrances, but definitely not all, are way above most other House's offerings. It looks as though, chronologically, you got into Amouage pretty early on and this could be an issue, i.e. why bother searching for inferior scents? You will find other fragrances that will knock your socks off from a lot of houses, sometimes most unexpectedly. I suggest you have a look at Serge Lutens, Histoire d'Parfums, Andy Tauer even Etat Libre... for a fresh perspective.
A great house for sure and I too am a fan, but many others are just as good or better, IMO.
Current Top Favorites:
1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
4) Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie
6) Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
Good for you. You can focus on all things Amouage and nothing else.
We all have different reasons for coming around and motivations behind our enthusiasm. Narrowing down the universe of what's out there according to what I like is one of mine. In terms I understand, you've narrowed it down quite a bit and that'll probably save you both time and money in the long run.
Such a shame Lyric Man smells like a body lotion for women with rose oil.
Plus others have told me that it smells vile on me, sour and sweaty.
Honestly, I bought the sample set and was not hugely impressed.
There is a lack of depth. They smell "hollow" to me. Even synthetic.
Something like l'Air du Desert Marocain is ten steps above the current offering IMO.
Dior's Eau Sauvage Parfum is of higher quality to my nose.
The only one I really like is JUBILATION XXV.
I like the name of the brand, I really like the design of the bottles but the pricing is ridiculous.
I don't want to insult anyone who loves this house or discourage Amouage in any way. This is all constructive criticism here!
The ingredients are potent and very impressive. BUT, I think they are too quick to launch new fragrances before they are actually ready for the public to use them. Problem I have with Amouage is they often just try too hard and miss the mark with the finished product. My favorites from the line are Jubilation XXV, Memoir Man and Opus VI. I also like Homage Attar, Tribute Attar and Epic Man - they are very fine. I consider these to be excellent and as certainly as good as many other house at the top, but really not better than everything else! It seems to me that Amouage has experimented around with interesting ingredients to produce six new perfumes for the Opus Library collection with the result of one that I can wear - VI! Maybe I am the exception or just too critical. They produce a lot of "hit or miss" with very expensive ingredients and expensive end product of fragrance. The final results seem to be good, but often miss the sweet spot somehow for me anyway, see: Interlude Man, Honour Man, Gold, etc. Amouage launch too many fragrances that are not ready for the public just yet. The sad thing is that they might have been great launches if they had just adjusted the formulas some more. I think they are too quick to launch new things. It is probably a result of the amount of money that is flowing in the Arabic perfume markets in the middle east. Amouage have many fans who have lots of money and really want new things so it keeps them moving. Too fast and too much in my opinion.
I find I agree with Richaki above "As someone who has purchased Amouage in the past I am sorry to say that in my opinion this line has lost its way." The new Amouage fragrances need tougher editing prior to launch, imo. There needs to be more rigorous testing among people who can offer critical opinions. So many Amouage fragrances have a thread of something that could be great but then fall short by over mixing heavy ingredients, or over emphasizing certain aspects then losing the simplicity of it all. They need to test wear these fragrances more before launching them, imo.
Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 21st January 2013 at 04:20 PM.
TODAY'S ROTATION: Cologne du Parfumeur Dior Homme Cologne Sel d' Vetiver Javanese Patchouli Vetiver Veritas Azemour les Orangers Bergamote 22 Peruvian Ambrette Palissandre d' Or Bowmakers Ex Idolo Thirty Three M/Mink LL Santal 33 L'Homme Eau Boisee Jardin d' Amalfi Maestrale EDC Imperiale
Received my sample order today which included 8 Amouage samples. Will try them out soon.
I've tried many, many different houses over my time wearing fragrances, and honestly, I have NEVER found a House that I liked every fragrance. Even my favorite MONTALE has some colossal duds, as does my second favorite Mona d'Orio. I am suspicious of ANYONE who unabjectly loves every fragrance in a house.
For Sale: VINTAGE Montales
How can you have a post like that, but not provide us with your top 5 Amouage scents to try?
Amouage is one of my favourite houses, but I agree that they have a fair number of unsuccessful fragrances. Ciel, Silver and Dia are all unremarkable to me, and Opus VI is poor in my opinion. JXXV ranks among my overall favourite fragrances, and Honour Man is up there as well. I would say they fit quite nicely with other niche brands, in terms of quality and composition. Along with By Kilian, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Guerlain, Mona di Orio, etc. I can't wait to try their attars though, and currently have a sample of Tribute en route.
I think Amouage started losing its way around the releases of the Epic duo and the first three Opuses. That would be from 2010 onwards (I'm assuming the first 3-4 Opuses were already done and dusted in 2009). Since then, only Opus IV has been a winner in my book.
It's also a pity that, since then, the last two Opuses have very synthetic bases, while the regular releases masquerade as unadventurous department store designer fragrances.
IMHO every Attar I own is a treasure. Only one missing is the sandalwood....(sigh, my unicorn).
The EDP best for me are Interlude Woman(truly unisex), Interlude Man, and Epic Man in that order.
For me this is my Fave house. That being said, there are many Frags out their I love/enjoy. As with my music, what I wear is decided by my mood, the weather, and what I am doing.
I couldn't limit myself to just one House nor do I mind being rated next to others. Opinions vary and how people value/perceive scent is part of the fun.
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Oh how I have wanted to try Amouage since I discovered the huge world of Niche fragrances about a year ago...but, alas, I haven't as of yet...Jubilation has been on my list for a long time. Wait, I just remembered that I received a sample of Memoir Man last February and I thought it smelled a little ash-trayish...but then again, I was just beginning to understand that there were fragrances that pushed beyond many designer fragrances, so I didn't really "get" it. I will have to give it a smell again.
Amouage definately gives me that "rich" vibe when i smell their frags
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don't forget, NOSES are creating great perfumes, not companies or houses. Bertrand Duchaufour created Jubilation XXV, Amouage financed it.
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Last edited by Jean-Maurice; 22nd January 2013 at 06:26 AM.
My "Lucky 13" top perfumes (They can change often)
1- Jubilation XXV (Amouage) Bertrand Duchaufour
2- Lyric Man (Amouage) Daniel Visentin
3- Tubereuse 3 Animale (Histoires de Parfums) Gérald Ghislain
5- Interlude Man (Amouage) Pierre Negrin
6- L'Instant de Guerlain Extrème (Guerlain) Béatrice Piquet
7- 1740 Marquis de Sade (Histoires de Parfums) Gérald Ghislain
9- Derby (Guerlain) Jean-Paul Guerlain
10- Chergui (Serge Lutens) Christopher Sheldrake
11- De Profundis (Serge Lutens) Christopher Sheldrake
12- Memoir Man (Amouage) Karine Vinchon
13- Dior Homme Intense (Dior) François Demachy
I have to agree. From my collection of 40+ , Amouage is surely unique.
Last edited by socalwoman; 26th March 2013 at 09:58 AM.
The nose and mind behind many Amouage classics was Guy Robert.
I suggest to try his older scents, to name a few: Calèche, Equipage, Monsieur Rochas (the original versions, of course)
Must be difficult when you've made classics like Guy Robert's original Gold & the original Homage.
Hopefully, the new factory complex will help advancement and the attars might have more quality control - there is a limit beyond which simple batch variation doesn't wash.
But maybe demand exceeded their original capabilities.
I understand that Ayoon Al Maha, for example, has a production interruption at present - that is the correct way to maintain respect imo, provided IFRA regulations don't affect future batches
Many of their Attars are good, but I never liked any of their EDP's enough to want a bottle.
I did purchase a decant of Epic Woman Extrait once, and enjoyed it. Thanks Trebor.
I cant believe if the perfume world wont have Amouage. I love Amouage and think most of their scents are so special and different.


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Army general defers plea at hearing on sex charges
Tuesday - 1/22/2013, 8:02pm EST
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FORT BRAGG, N.C. (AP) - An Army general brought back from Afghanistan to face court-martial on a series of sexual misconduct charges deferred entering a plea Tuesday.
Brig. Gen. Jeffrey Sinclair, who served five combat tours, is headed to trial following a spate of highly publicized military sex scandals involving high-ranking officers that has triggered a review of ethics training across the service branches.
Sinclair was arraigned Tuesday at Fort Bragg on charges that include forcible sodomy, wrongful sexual conduct, indecent acts, violating orders and adultery. When the judge invited Sinclair to enter a plea of guilty or not guilty, he deferred through his attorney, who indicated the general would enter his plea at a later date.
The hearing continued with a defense motion to disqualify prosecutors over privileged emails erroneously sent to them by criminal investigators. The messages included exchanges between Sinclair and his lawyers, his wife and with a family friend who is an ordained minister.
Lt. Col. Jackie Thompson, the lead defense attorney, urged the military judge overseeing the case to disqualify the entire prosecution team and order the case to be reinvestigated from scratch.
"We're not asking for a walk," Thompson told the judge. "We're asking for a case that is free of taint."
The military judge, Army Col. James Pohl, has set the trial portion of the court-martial for May 13. He did not immediately rule on the defense motion to disqualify the prosecuting attorneys, all four of whom testified under oath they had not reviewed the privileged emails.
A 27-year Army veteran, Sinclair faces life in prison if convicted on the most serious offenses. It's rare for an Army general to face court-martial. There have been only two cases in recent years.
More commanders have lost their posts over sex. Of the 18 generals and admirals, from one star to four stars, fired in recent years, 10 lost their jobs because of sex-related offenses.
That tally does not include retired Army general David Petraeus, who was forced to resign as CIA director in November after he admitted to an affair with the woman who wrote the biography of his military career. The investigation of Petraeus also ensnared Marine Gen. John Allen, the commander of U.S. forces in Afghanistan, over thousands of flirty emails he exchanged with a Tampa, Fla., socialite. On Tuesday, Pentagon officials said Allen had been cleared of inappropriate conduct.
At an evidentiary hearing for Sinclair in November, prosecutors presented testimony about his conduct with five women who were not his wife, including officers who served under his direct command. The charges involve activities when he was in Afghanistan, Iraq, Germany and at installations in the United States.
Sinclair was deputy commander in charge of logistics and support for the 82nd Airborne Division in Afghanistan before being relieved in May during the criminal investigation. He has been on special assignment since then at Fort Bragg in North Carolina.
The female captain at the heart of the case said she carried on a three-year sexual relationship with Sinclair, a father of two. Adultery is a crime under military law, and the admission could end her career.
She testified at the evidentiary hearing that she repeatedly tried to break off the affair with Sinclair, who she says threatened to kill her and her family if she told anyone about their frequent sexual liaisons in hotels, headquarters and war zones. The woman said she usually wanted to have sex with the general, though she said that on two occasions he exposed himself and physically forced her to perform oral sex, even as she sobbed.
The Associated Press does not publicly identify victims of alleged sexual assaults.
Two female officers who served with Sinclair also testified that they had given the general nude photos at his request.
Sinclair is also accused of possessing alcohol in a war zone and disobeying orders. Maj. Gen. James Huggins, Sinclair's superior officer in Afghanistan, testified he ordered Sinclair to cease contact with the female captain after she reported the affair. Sinclair is alleged to have willfully disobeyed that order by then calling the woman's phone.
Sinclair has not yet spoken publically about the charges against him. At the pretrial hearing, his defense lawyers conceded the affair with the female captain, while working to paint her as a liar trying to ruin the general's life and military reputation. During the hearings, they characterized her as a manipulative "back-stabber" who blamed others for her mistakes.


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Maties will play in their fourth Varsity Cup final after their 23-0 win over UJ in Stellenbosch on Monday.
It was a more convincing performance from the three-time champions, compared to the one they delivered in the 10-10 stalemate against UJ in Johannesburg last week. They were brutal on attack and defence, with the latter department their most impressive of this semi-final fixture.
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It was a closer contest in the second stanza, with a Kemp penalty enough to seal the win and Maties' place in the 2012 title decider.
Stellenbosch University skipper and flank Helmut Lehmann said his team can clinch their fourth title with a similar performance in the final.
'I was happy that our defence and attack worked out nicely,' said Lehmann. 'We went into defensive mode in the second half, but we had a deficit big enough to defend.
'There will be a few things to work on ahead of the final, but with similar tough performance, we should be fine against our opponents.'
By Gareth Duncan


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Resident Hall Association
About RHA:
The Texas A&M University - Texarkana Residence Hall Association is the voice of all residence hall students, making policy recommendations to the housing department, and working with the Department of Residence Life and the University to make student concerns heard. Additionally, RHA provides leadership and programming support to make the residence halls the best place to live in Texarkana.
Organizational Overview:
The purpose of the Residence Hall Association (RHA) is to build community and develop leadership among on-campus residents. RHA serves as an "umbrella organization" to Hall Councils and other on-campus engagement organizations including NRHH (National Residence Hall Honorary). As the umbrella organization, RHA provides financial support, developmental opportunities, and activities for everyone across campus. RHA believes in providing opportunities that challenge and supports all facets of its membership. In addition, RHA thrives on the diversity within its organization because of its known and experienced benefits. This means reaching beyond stereotypical views of individuals and using the strengths and different perspectives that each person offers as a result of his or her culture, religion, ethnicity, gender, race, national origin, disability, sexual orientation, and age. RHA's teams will reflect the individual diversity of the campus. Even more important, they will embrace and derive value from the diverse views that each individual brings to any task.
The Texas A&M University - Texarkana Residence Hall Association strives to represent the concerns of on-campus students, seeks to preserve the spirit and traditions of on-campus housing through building community in and among the residence halls by providing opportunity for intellectual, cultural, social and leadership development.
Meetings are held every 1st and 3rd Wednesday of each month in UC 116 at 9:00pm. These meetings are open to the public and only closed when a judicial case is presented to the voting members. RHA Executive Board encourages all residents to attend meetings and share their suggestions and opinions to the board to further encourage constant improvement in the residence halls.
Policy Changes:
All policy changes for the Bringle Lake Village Residence Hall go through the RHA general board. This is done through pieces of legislation that is written by the legislation committee and then voted on by the RHA general board that is made up of representatives from each floor and classification within the building. Any resident is able and encouraged to fill out the legislation form with suggestions for the building. Once the form is turned into the legislation committee, a member will be in contact with the resident that submitted the form to get any further information that might be needed for the board. All legislation forms are due to the Vice-President Ellie Kemins at firstname.lastname@example.com by 5pm the day of RHA meetings.
RHA Website:
For more information and updates please go to the below website!
Interested in joining RHA? Contact Nichole Couch at email@example.com or President Meagan Lucas at email@example.com .


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Vidocq: The Personal Memoirs of the First Great Detective, edited and translated by Edwin Gile Rich. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company. 445 pages. $3. This condensed version of the famous detective's memoirs starts off very well as an amusing picaresque story. Soon, however, it becomes the somber and rather dreary tale of Vidocq's escapes while he was one of the hunted, and of his captures when he turned hunter himself. Apparently Vidocq cared more for the truthfulness of his story than for any possible adornments.
There Is No Truce: A Life of Thomas Mott Osborne, by Rudolph W. Chamberlain. New York: The Macmillan Company. 420 pages. $3.50. Osborne seemed to have been born under fortunate stars. To the inheritance of family, culture and wealth he added personal attractions and accomplishments and power over men. And yet the stars turned malign. "Few men," says his biographer, "have ever been so unerring in their choice of the losing side." Mr. Chamberlain brings out the secret of his constant defeat. He was Don Quixote with a streak of the playboy.
Tortilla Flat, by John Steinbeck. New York: Covici, Friede. $2.50. Not since the days of W. W. Jacobs, making his disarming characters out of scoundrels, has there been a book quite like this one. Both Jacobs and Steinbeck must have worked on the assumption that most of us, having a slice or two of Caspar Milquetoast in our systems or a streak that calls for out and out anarchy, are likely to revel in the antics of anyone getting away with what he shouldn't. The Paisanos of Tortilla Flat get away with agreat deal in their tireless efforts to supply their gullets with red wine.
Europe: War or Peace? by Walter Duranty. Boston: World Peace Foundation. 47 pages. 50 cents. The Pipe Dream of Peace, by John W. Wheeler-Bennett. New York: William Morrow and Company. 318 pages. $3. Peace and the Plain Man, by Norman Angell. New York: Harper and Brothers. 344 pages. $2.50 The Price of Peace, by Frank H. Simonds. New York: Harper and Brothers. 380 pages. $3. The title of Mr. Duranty's booklet, "Europe: War or Peace?" is a question that is asked today more anxiously than it was in 1914.
Out of the recent planetary turmoil of the Supreme Court, those down below who have been counting on the liberal Justices have been denied even a handful of stardust. Mr. Justice Roberts cut short in the railroad pension case what had been all along a rather indecent one-sided flirtation. Justices Hughes and Stone have been giving the liberals a passing solace, but theirs was never a deeply rooted point of view, and their liberalism has waned with the decline of the prestige of the New Deal. As for Mr.
An Omen for America Sir: In the name of a group of Cuban revolutionary exiles I would like to call your attention to the following considerations: Cuba's situation is not today being given the same consideration it has received in analogous circumstances in the past.
An Omen for America Sir: In the name of a group of Cuban revolutionary exiles I would like to call your attention to the following considerations: Cuba's situation is not today being given the same consideration it has received in analogous circumstances in the past.
One of the points brought out by the exhibition of "Abstract Painting in America" held at the Whitney Museum last spring was the fact that between 1915 and 1935 a surprising number of American painters had turned to Europe for direction. A few of them came to understand the trends that painting was taking with their European contemporaries during that time quite thoroughly— in fact, were able to produce work along the same lines that might have passed without adverse comment in any group showing of avant-garde European work of its period.
With the exception of one amendment, the Wagner labor-disputes bill, as finally enacted by Congress, does not differ much from the measure in its original form. But that amendment may be a joker and turn the entire Act into a company-union charter. It has to do with Section 9b, which governs the choice of the appropriate unit for collective bargaining.
It was a grand week for the Sound Thinkers in Washington. The House swatted the "death sentence" in the utility bill. The Senate Banking Committee—the same committee that brought in so many "reforms" two years ago—reported Senator Glass's amended Reserve bill to the Senate with some queer things in it. The tax plan troubles the Sound Thinkers, of course, but they have really derived a lot of satisfaction from it because its ill starred career thus far has revealed the President in a not very pleasant light.


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GAVIN MORTIMER discovers that Joe Pietersen is relishing the challenge of playing and living in France.
There are approximately 8 300km between Cape Town and Bayonne but it feels like a home from home for Joe Pietersen.
'It's a town on the south-west coast of France and in many ways it's similar to what I knew back in South Africa,' explains the former Stormers and Western Province fullback. 'There's the sea, the beaches and the wine. It's a relaxed way of life and my wife and I are enjoying it.'
Pietersen, 26, married his wife, model Marzaan Kalis, in July before jetting north to France to take up a two-year contract with Bayonne, one of the less glamorous sides in the Top 14. Last season they finished 13th and avoided relegation only because Montauban went bust and were thrown out of France's elite league. But bolstered by a raft of mid-year signings, Bayonne have started the 2010-11 season in better shape and racked up wins against the likes of Agen, Brive and Joe van Niekerk's Toulon.
For Pietersen it's clearly been a challenge, adapting not just to the different way of playing rugby but also the different way of living. His arrival in France coincided with the start of a series of general strikes across the country organised in protest against the government's decision to raise the age of retirement from 60 to 62. With public transport at a standstill, refuse left uncollected and petrol stations running out of gas, France for a time resembled a country in chaos. Fortunately Pietersen is able to laugh and take it all in his stride.
'The reason for leaving South Africa was that my wife and I decided we wanted to start our life together with a challenge, which it definitely is, especially the lifestyle and language. The way of life is totally different to what I knew in South Africa but I like it.'
The wheels of administration move slowly in France, nowhere more so than in the deep south, as Pietersen discovered when he had to wait three weeks to have his telephone and internet connection installed. And don't even ask him about the satellite TV he'd hoped to have in time to watch Western Province in the Currie Cup final. Oh well, c'est la vie, as the French would say.
Pietersen has signed with Bayonne for two years and though it might be a bit premature to draw comparisons between French rugby and the South African brand, he's already seen a couple of differences.
'I don't think French rugby is any more physical than South African rugby,' he says. 'It's certainly more of a forwards' game here but also probably slower and less attacking.
'In South Africa the game is definitely more structured. Teams plan ahead for three or four phases whereas in France you plan for one phase and then play off the cuff, that famous "champagne rugby", where the French will just try something. Sometimes it comes off and sometimes it doesn't but it makes for a less structured and disciplined approach than back home.'
Pietersen joined Bayonne as a fullback but so far this season he's also played on the wing and at flyhalf, a versatility that some might argue hampered his progression at Western Province in his formative years.
'Of course I prefer fullback but I'm used to playing in different positions. I played a lot of rugby on the wing in South Africa and I've no problem helping out where I'm required, though I draw the line at getting involved with the forwards!
'In the past couple of years at the Stormers and WP I played at fullback which allowed me to really focus on the positional requirements, but when I joined Bayonne I didn't tell them that I would only play fullback. One of the things about the French season is its length [from August to June] so it's natural that some games you play out of position and other games you sit on the bench.'
One of Pietersen's new team-mates is former Pumas centre Sam Gerber, while second row Rob Linde is also on the books of Bayonne, a player Pietersen knew from his early days at Newlands.
'Rob was at WP in my first season in 2004 so it's been good to catch up,' he explains. 'I think that when a player moves overseas it's often harder for his partner to adjust to the new life so in that respect it's been great that my wife can spend time with the wives of Rob and Sam.'
Pietersen and his wife are keen surfers, as is another of his team-mates, the former All Blacks lock Troy Flavell, and the pair head out into the Atlantic whenever they can.
But it isn't all surf and sun in Bayonne. That stretch of the Atlantic coastline is notorious for its seasonal storms and one such tempest descended on the town the same October day as English club Harlequins arrived to play their European Challenge Cup pool match. One British newspaper described the conditions as 'farcical' as rain and wind lashed the Stade Jean-Dauger and Pietersen still shivers at the memory weeks later.
'I've played in a few rainy matches in Cape Town but nothing compared to that day,' he says with a laugh. 'I was playing on the wing and froze my butt off. I think the ball came my way once in the second half when Harlequins kicked it in my direction. Unfortunately my hands were so frozen I couldn't pick it up.'
What Pietersen modestly neglects to mention is his contribution to Bayonne's 16-12 win, where he dotted down for a well-finished try in the first half that set the French side on course for victory.
Pietersen's eye for the tryline, not to mention his goal-kicking ability and reliability under the high ball, were just some of the reasons why many in South Africa were surprised when he was overlooked for the Springboks' tour to Europe in November 2009. Instead Peter de Villiers opted to take Lions utility back Earl Rose, one of the more head-scratching selections of his coaching tenure. Despite the snub, however, Pietersen bears no resentment towards De Villiers.
'I don't think there's too much wrong with the [selection] system in South Africa,' he says. 'After all, we're world champions so we must be doing something right. Every player wants to play for the Boks and if that doesn't happen then there's a tendency to say "I was overlooked". I don't think I was overlooked.
I was competing against some great players like Frans Steyn and Zane Kirchner and I think I pushed them as hard as I could but I didn't get selected.'
Pietersen is similarly philosophical when asked if he regrets the timing of his move to France. After South Africa's poor showing in the Tri-Nations might not De Villiers have now called on him for the 2010 tour to Europe had he been available?
'Ifs and buts won't get me anywhere in life,' says Pietersen. 'I'm like a little boy when it comes to the Boks. I dream of playing for them one day and I'll only be 28 when my contract with Bayonne expires. So I'm going to keep working, keep pushing hard and keep improving my game while I'm in France. Who knows what will happen in the future.'
Despite a difficult year for the national side, Pietersen feels that the Springboks will be in good shape to defend their title at next year's World Cup.
'The coaches came in for a lot criticism in the Tri-Nations this year but what we saw was a lot of young guys given the chance to prove themselves and the same thing too on the tour to Europe,' he explains. 'Sometimes people need to step back, stop criticising the coaches and look at the bigger picture, which in this case is the World Cup. If you look back to 2006 the Boks struggled in the Tri-Nations and then came good in the World Cup the following year and I think we're getting a good blend of youth and experience ahead of next year's tournament.'
Having played sevens for South Africa Pietersen isn't in a position to go down the same route as Pieter de Villiers and Brian Liebenberg and pull on the blue jersey of his adopted country, not that he would if he could. 'No, I'm a Bok boy at heart,' he replies emphatically when asked if he would play for France if the eligibility rules were changed.
A Bok boy but also a WP boy, and no one was more pleased with their run to the Currie Cup final than Pietersen.
'I wasn't really surprised at how well they did in the tournament; you could see it coming with the way the Stormers played in the Super 14. I sent Allister Coetzee an e-mail just before the Currie Cup final to wish the boys well and though I missed being part of the day I was lucky enough to play for the Stormers in the Super 14 final and that was unforgettable. But rugby is all about new challenges and different priorities and that's why I came to France.'
Some of those challenges are more demanding than others, and while Pietersen is having no trouble adjusting to the rugby and administrative habits of the French, their temperament still leaves him bemused.
'Before I arrived here I'd heard stories of the violence in French rugby but it's not really like that at Top 14 level,' he says with a laugh. 'But French people in general are definitely more emotional than the rest of the world, you just need to see them drive to have proof of that!'
– This article first appeared in the December issue of SA Rugby magazine.
Click here to subscribe to print edition


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Back on July 30 when Carrboro High began practice, coach Jason Tudryn was at a loss about what to expect from his Jaguars, who were preparing for only their sixth season playing football.
Nearly four months later, how about no losses?
"To be completely honest with you, we had no idea," Tudryn said. "That's a tribute to these guys. Everybody sets goals to be a champion, and these guys have done a great job of taking every week as its own opportunity.
"This is a new school. We're only in our sixth season. This team has kind of gone out and said, 'Hey, we want to be a conference champion and then we'll take it from there,' and they've played extremely hard every week."
Hard is an understatement for a team that Tudryn said features 24 varsity players — some JVs were called up during the playoffs — and seven that go both ways.
The Jaguars are 14-0 heading into Friday night's NCHSAA 2-AA East Regional final at Northside, which his also 14-0. So something has to give in a clash for the right to advance to the state finals on Dec. 1 at Carter-Finley Stadium in
Carrboro rallied to beat Reidsville 20-16 last Friday night to advance to the regional final.
In going undefeated and winning the
Quarterback Alex McVeigh, a 5-foot-11, 190-pound senior, leads the Jaguars, having completed 56.2 percent of his passes (100 of 178) for 2,105 yards while also having run for 347 yards. His No. 1 target is 6-2, 205-pound junior wide receiver Marlin Johnson, who has 1,163 yards receiving and 13 touchdowns. Three other players have more than 200 yards receiving as well.
On the ground, Carrboro is led by Trai Sharp, a 5-9, 185-pound sophomore who was on the varsity as a freshman, has rushed for 2,244 yards and 33 touchdowns. Douglas Parrish, a 5-9, 175-pound senior, has rushed for 662 yards and 19 TDs.
"We've got a couple really good football players," Tudryn said. "But it really starts with an offensive line that's started I want to say now 22 consecutive football games. So that really helps. That kind of sums it up for you right there."
Defensively, the Jaguars' base scheme is a
The secondary is led by 5-9, 165-pound senior Shamek Dolby, who has six interceptions.
Given the lack of numbers, which Tudryn said included "a total" of 46 football players in the entire school, the coach said the Jaguars were "a real close group of guys."
"It's a really hard working group," he said. "That number epitomizes where we're at. We've got a lot of overachieving players play that play really hard. I guess that kind of sums us up."
While Sharp figures "to be on the map soon enough" when it comes to college recruiters, Tudryn said most of his players are "blue-collar, hard-working guys" who aren't likely to show up on television in college games on Saturday afternoons.
Much like Northside, which Tudryn said shared "a ton of similarities" with his team.
When asked about the Monarchs, Tudryn pointed to running back Dewayne Johnson, whom he called "a really good high school football player." Ditto for wide receiver Josh Cabrera. Overall, he added, Northside is a team that plays extremely hard and is "extremely" competitive.
"So we've got our work cut out for us," he said.
Do the Monarchs remind him of any team his Jaguars faced this year?
"Not really," Tudryn said. "To be 14-0 at this point of the game, you've got to have something that really just doesn't stick out on film or something that's just kind of intangible, and they've got it.
"You can see how they win football games, whether it'd be on special teams, defensive interceptions and returns for touchdown. They just find a way to win. That's what they've been really good at. And we've been blessed to be that way as well.
"It's going to be one of those types of games where it comes down to who makes the least amount of mistakes and who executes in crucial situations."


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Our friend Elle over at Elle's New England Kitchen is true Woodchuck® Hard Cider fan. She took our Woodchuck® Private Reserve Belgian White Cider, applied her passion for cooking awesome meals, and boom… this hard cider inspired recipe was born. It is sure to satisfy the hard cider drinker and the craft beer enthusiast in you. Modeled after a Belgian white or Belgian wit bier, Cider Maker John Matson worked hard to create a gluten-free Belgian White Hard Cider. We're excited to share Elle's tasty recipe with you all!
This post first appeared on Elle's New England Kitchen, June 20th, 2013.
I love picnics! We don't have enough of them, but I'm determined to change that this summer. When I think of picnics, the first thing I think of is, of course, the food. It's the heart of the picnic. I chose to make pizza because who doesn't love pizza?! And pizza is perfectly acceptable when it's eaten cold.
This one has Woodchuck® Cider garlic shrimp, bacon, pesto, and of course, a nice blend of pizza-type cheese. It's packed with flavor and just as good cold as it is piping hot from the oven.Tweet


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Except for situations listed below, all students enrolled in a school-sponsored health insurance plan in need of medical care in Manhattan are required to first seek treatment and be evaluated at the SHC. If the evaluation by the SHC provider determines that the services are not available at the SHC, an off-site referral will be issued. Any copays or coinsurance fees incurred will be the responsibility of the student.
*Referrals are required for follow-up visits after an emergency.
Students may use any provider outside the borough of Manhattan without an off-site referral from SHC. Any copays or coinsurance fees incurred will be the responsibility of the student.
We encourage students to first seek services by an SHC provider who will be able to supervise and coordinate care with minimal out-of-pocket expense for medically necessary treatment.
Students seeking care from providers outside the SHC should choose a provider who participates in the MagnaCare (NY/NJ area) or MultiPlan networks to ensure maximum benefits and reduce out-of-pocket expenses. To find a MagnaCare (NY/NJ area) or MultiPlan provider go to www.chpstudent.com or call (877) 373-1170 and a CHP representative will assist you in locating a participating provider. Any copays or coinsurance fees incurred will be the responsibility of the student.
The school-sponsored health insurance plans require Pre-Certification/Authorization for certain out-patient and in-patient services. Hines Associates Inc., administers the Pre-Certification/Authorization process for the plans. To contact Hines Associates, call (866) 327-4520.
If pre-certification is not secured, eligible expenses will be subject to a $500 per admission or out-patient service deductible in addition to any applicable co-pays or co-insurance.
Physical Therapy treatment plans must be authorized to continue treatment after the initial 12 visits.


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Glove, Socks
Browse our huge selection of glove and socks such as organza, sequin, metallic, long gloves, lace gloves, under the costume accessory section for Halloween or other special events for men, women and youth. These costume accessories will look great. Some of our items include Christmas stocking that makes a great item to be displayed in your living room. Our fancy shiny, satin gloves, and lace will make a cute combination with the outfit for those girls who want that hipster, flap, and old-fashioned look. These glove and socks will give you the look you want without having to over think or stress yourself out. The variety of styles also helps to give you that one of a kind look that you're looking for.
There are no products matching the selection.


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The End of Charity
As I'm travelling, I'm reading more – so that means it's time for another impromptu book-review/idea-sharing post.
The book in question this time around is Nic Frances' ominously titled The End of Charity. The points of the book aren't that scary though – I find them to be pretty spot-on with what's needed.
A quick overview:
- Society's siloed approach isn't working: Leaving businesses to focus on making money, and charities to making the world better isn't really getting anywhere.
- Value needs to represent more than financial worth: Goods and services need to be given more accurate values which incorporate social and environmental worth.
- Businesses need to incorporate social and environmental mindsets into their operations: Remove the silos. Don't leave the 'doing good' to a separate organisation (examples: Google Inc and Google.org, Microsoft and The Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, McDonalds and Ronald McDonald House Charities).
- The market will make it all work: Okay, that's a little simplistic, but the market does a decent job at helping the best value goods and services come to the fore.
Now the book itself is far more detailed – Frances draws a lot from his own experiences, both in charities and in socially-minded businesses, so there's no end of real world examples. It's also extremely easy to digest, so I highly recommend reading it, even if you don't have much of a business-focused mind.
Granted, some of these ideas can take some getting used to, especially on the left side of politics where broad strokes paint businesses (particularly corporations) as Bad, and charities and other non-profits as Good. A lot of what's discussed in this book isn't particularly new to me – I was introduced to the concepts while working at MBO (now Ergo Consulting) (which, perhaps not so surprisingly, had an awesome culture non unlike what Frances outlines for his own Cool nrg). I remember bristling at the idea put forward by our then CEO Paul Steele (who is currently COO at World Vision Australia) that business is the best way to enact social improvement.
A few years have passed since then, though, and I've come around to agreeing that the combined approach is far more likely to succeed than the old, siloed way.
Now, this hasn't led to any dramatic chances in my freelancing lifestyle – but it's got my brain ticking away, so you'll just have to wait and see what comes of it. That said, what do you you think about all this? Do you agree? Disagree? Do you have some suggestions on how to make the organisation you work for take a more holistic approach?


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Hmmm. CB I Hate Perfume's website has GreenBriar 1968, which is described as including a pipe tobacco note, and also has a straight Pipe Tobacco accord.
Hi all, wondering if you had any ideas about finding a pipe tobacco fragrance. My BF carries around pipe tobacco in his jacket and it smells wonderful. I'd like him to smell of it without the jacket on! It's Black Cavendish tobacco, a rich, slightly vanilla-y blend. I know Tobacco Vanille would be the obvious choice, but a) it's overpriced, and b) I find Tom Ford kind of annoying. It would be nice if there was a little smoke in it as well, like the smell of a pipe. Anyone tried the Demeters? (Pipe Tobacco, Whiskey Tobacco, and This Is Not a Pipe.)
It seems like a lot of things have tobacco in the list of notes but aren't very tobacco-ish, I guess because smoking is so unacceptable these days!
Hmmm. CB I Hate Perfume's website has GreenBriar 1968, which is described as including a pipe tobacco note, and also has a straight Pipe Tobacco accord.
Micheal Kors - Michael For Men...
SMN - Tobacco Toscano
Another pricey choice is Back to Black. An absolute stunner.
Not sure if this is quite what you're looking for, but...
Demeter Pipe Tobacco
I'm enjoying MCM Success today, but it has a lot of tobacco and no vanilla.
Tobacco Vanille is definitely worth trying, especially as you're in a city where it's available to smell.
Very Valentino Pour Homme is an other option.
Burberry London?
Give Fumerie Turque by Serge Lutens a shot... not a ton cheaper than Tobacco Vanille though. It has more of the smoke part you mentioned, as well as some animalic notes intertwined.
Incidentally, I just bought TV today at the outlet mall for $50 under retail (if it's mostly cost that's prohibiting trying it)
Last edited by jrd4t; 15th September 2009 at 02:05 AM.
I'm a colognosaurus. Rawr!
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Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan
Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense
Tabac by Abdes Salaam Attar Profumo at ilprofumo.it
Bell'Antonio by Hilde Soliani Profumi
problem is neither of these is much less expensive. Both are excellent tobacco scents though. Bell'Antonio is $175 at Luckyscent and Tabac can only be ordered direct from the showroom in Italy and a bottle runs around $140US.
Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 14th September 2009 at 11:09 PM.
Caron's Aimez Moi has a honeyed pipe tobacco accord.
Nope, no such luck, unfortunately! It's the Cosmetics Company Store for Lancome at the Premium Outlets here... they have the whole line for $132. They have the roller sample set as well, the rest of the Tom Ford goodies (Black Orchid whole line, White Patchouli, etc), plus all kinds of other things. If you happen to be in Orlando and go there, there are two of the same store in the mall and only one has them (the one near Banana Republic, not the one near the parking garage).
I'm a colognosaurus. Rawr!
Bogart Pour Homme has the vanilla, but it's very strong. I suggest diluting it with vodka (if you don't have perfumer's alcohol around). That is probably the closest to what you asked for that I've tried. However, I think Michael for Men is a much better fragrance, though you won't get the vanilla.
Visit my huge swap page: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/211...-ml-Gotham-etc
Or visit my Sales page: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/211...o-make-offers!
Samples, etc. for Sale at my Crystal Flacon page: http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=282
My fragrance blog: http://bigslyfragrance.wordpress.com/
For pure pipe tobacco, I would highly recommend CB I Hate Perfume's Smoky Tobacco which is now available in a water perfume. (I believe this is the second scent that Crayfish refers to above). One of the best tobacco scents period, and better longevity than many of this line.
CB also makes a Rich Tobacco accord which seems to me to have a bit of chocolate in the mix.
Easy, Bogart PH, cherry pipe tobacco at it's best.
"I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."
Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait
My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux
Might also want to try Sonoma Valley Scent Studio to see if they still have a rendition of Tabac Extreme, which was along the lines of cherry pipe tobacco.
The Bark Bites Back on film here --> https://thebarkbitesback.wordpress.com
If I were you, I would stick with the Demeter suggestions from above.
One more thing: The only time I have EVER had anyone think that I was smoking a pipe, when they got a whiff of my SOTD, was when I was wearing Spiriteuse Double Vanille. I think for the wearer, personally, I get a very gourmand, vanilla aura from SDV, but the sillage sure does smell like pipe tobacco to others. Of course, this is NOT a cheap or easy-to-source option. Still, I felt like I need to at least mention it.
"All problems are illusions of the mind."
-- Eckhart Tolle
I'd definitely go for Fumerie Turque from Serge Lutens as has been mentioned. If your man shows some keen interest in your perfume samplings, have a go at Serge Lutens' Chergui. It's quite lovely, has a sweet smoky tobacco heart that lasts for hours.
PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather
I also think that dabbing, instead of spraying SdV, accentuates the tobbaco like aura to all new levels. It also has a reverse effect then, I get strong whiffs of rum soaked vanilla tempered tobacco when I smell it up close, and the sillage from a distance is devoid of any major impact of tobacco.
I speak from experience as I _always_ prefer to dab my SdV, rather than spray.
PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather
Two steps forward. One step back.
I second Very Valentino
i Profumi di Firenze - Tabacco
Vanilaville by Liz Zorn
This is natural perfumery , especially if you put in clothes
after 30 mins the tobacco note is very nice
And the Layer of
Le Labo Patchouly 24 with ( frapin 1270, SMN tobaco toscano , ...etc )
Looking for Creed Spice & Wood / swap fragances , Creed Vingate Tabarome and more... http://www.basenotes.net/threads/374...me-Cuir-Beluga
I reach for Zino when I want this.
Odori Tobacco seems like exactly what you describe, but it's a pricey one.
Blend of tobacco and vanilla.
Last edited by L'Aventurier; 15th September 2009 at 04:56 PM.
Sales thread here
Have you tried Santa Maria Novella's Toscano?
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Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan
Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense
Michael Kors for Men has been showing up at Marshalls and TJ Maxx the last couple of weeks. 75 ml for $20. It's a very nice tobacco with vanilla & something else - mostly unburned.
Thanks for your suggestions, I'll check those out. I've never heard of the Bogart Pour Homme, sounds interesting.
Does anyone know if there's anywhere in Vancouver you can buy Demeter? Just wondering, I know their line is so large that no one place would have every scent. They used to have it at Sears but not any more, I checked. Sephora has a few, but just Dirt, Vintage Naturals and some of their candy line.
I have tried Tobacco Vanille and I like it but that Tom Ford for Men ad campaign was kind of a turn-off for me! But I might look out for a decant. And the Michael Kors for Men sounds nice, I liked the Michael Kors for Women which surprised me, what with it being a sweet fruity floral.
Having tried Tobacco Vanille, I can understand why the OP did not want it. Sorry to all who love it but for me it's a B minus. Overpriced and underdone.
I needed to revive this thread and ask:
Some of the recommendations are odd.
I've tried Back to Black and have to concur with Marcelle in the review section of the forums, as being girly, sweet, and powdery. I suppose it might be sexy as all hell on the right woman. Better make that a stunningly beautiful woman . . .it's not pipe tobacco and it's not worthy of going into poetic raptures over it.
Fumerie Turque is one of the few Lutens I like though not quite bottleworthy. I think it's superior to the 'cozy' (?) Chergui and the rest of his overly sweet fruitcake scents. but it's not pipe tobacco. B-
Michael Kors is another B-scent, though cheaper (and better made!) More popular, and heavier on patchouli/suede, but---Pipe Tobacco? I don't think so, even though it's listed as a middle note. I get more patchouli . The resemblance to the smell of unsmoked dark pipe tobacco is there, but it's minimal.
I'm indebted to Sommerville Metro Man for recommending Sonoma Scent Studio's Tabac Aurea, a very fine rendition of tobacco leaves being cured by the sun. Now THAT was an A+ scent.
But it ain't pipe tobacco.
Help, anyone?
Last edited by Mario Justiniani; 17th January 2010 at 04:51 AM.
My Wardrobe
Reviews: http://www.basenotes.net/reviews/30
Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder.
My Antaeus can beat up your Armani.
The cherry-vanilla pipe tobacco accord in Spiriteuese Double Vanille is my favorite. This fragrance gives off tons and tons of pipe tobacco; at least it's prominent for those of us who recognize it, yet many others claim not to smell any tobacco in it. Anosmia? Strange.
Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
Splits: Ferragamo Incense Suede, Trumper Eucris, O'driu Eva Kant.
New atomizer and decanting supplies for sale.
For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov
To satisfy my occasional tobacco cravings, I reach for a bottle of Alt Innsbruck. See below
Last edited by Bartlebooth; 17th January 2010 at 12:36 PM.
Since I consider Ralph Lauren Purple Label as an inproved Very Valentino,here it goes...
From previous opinions, I assumed it smelled of menthol and dried Tobacco Leaves.
And regardless of which profile it is, what is the best source for us USA basenoters to get some Alt innsbruck?
Can I trade samples with anyone for Alt-Innsbruck?
PM me
I'm in agreement with the OP that TFTV is way overpriced, and I'm with Mario that it's underdone, imo too sweet/syrupy not quite enough of that dry/pipe-tobacco note, I even think it's too transparent in texture (although I don't want it to become powdery like Chergui to become opaque) but TFTV is still the closest I've come to a suitable Pipe Tobacco frag, and in it's current state, is a wonderful masculine gourmand.
Very valentino is ok, but I think you must also like the musk base of Himalaya, and maybe a little civet like Bois De Santal, to like Very Valentino. It's very quiet, and classy, but has that musk/civet I don't like.
Michael Kors had some very good notes, but also had a rotten fruit note (not a dried fruit note) that I disliked alot. And like others said, the suede/patchouli/booze, is alot more prominent than pipe tobacco.
Bogart Pour Homme is much better than it's price point indicates, and does have a very smooth and muted "80's synth oakmoss" powerhouse-type texture, while itself not smelling like oakmoss or smelling like a dated powerhouse. Instead, it has a never-too-sweet cherry pipe tobacco scent, but it also sometimes smells like that artificial Maraschino-cherry bathroom cleaner/air freshener I smell in Greek restaurants all the time. It's sort of the best case Scenario crossroads of Kouros/huge 80's oakmoss-powerhouse/cherry pipe tobacco. And again, it doesn't really smell especially dated. but it still doesn't ring the Pipe Tobacco bell for me.
I'll try the demeter, but please everyone recommending these super-sweet/boozy gourmands in the lutens and SDV realm, with only a complimentary helping of pipe tobacco, less so even than TFTV, please do not downplay if it is as sweet or sweeter than others listed. Thank you.
We will find the scent BN. Or i will make it LOL
I've never tried them but The Gentlemen's Quarter has a Cavendish Black Extrait.
Alt Innsbruck is a simple barbershop treatment, menthol based and very effective. Though not complex, the tobacco is wonderful and quite long lasting.
I believe it can be purchased in the US from Superlather.com
Last edited by Bartlebooth; 17th January 2010 at 05:38 PM.
Last edited by Diamondflame; 17th January 2010 at 07:07 PM.
Good point Mario. I do agree with your comments. I really don't get the sweet pipe tobacco from alot of the fragrances that have been mentioned. Tobacco is a tricky thing. Everytime I try to search for a pipe tobacco fragrance, I am dissapointed. I may very well have to just start smoking a pipe myself.
Seeking: Bottles/decants : of Alain Delon Iquitos, Feeling Man, Gucci pour Homme, Essence of John Galliano, Opium pour Homme, Oxford & Cambridge, Azzaro pour Homme (vintage), Concentré D'Orange Verte...etc.
Seeking decant/sample of Jil Sander Feeling Man, Comme des Garcons 2 Man, Giorgio VIP, ....etc. I have samples to swap.
More HERE
Please PM me !
If we were Japanese in the 19th century or earlier it would be easy.
We would carry a satchel of pipe tobacco around our necks or inside the folds of our kimonos.
I really have to look up those reviews of the ones I haven't tried, get a decant if it sounds promising, etc.
Or as DULLAH wrote: " I'll try the demeter, but please everyone recommending these super-sweet/boozy gourmands in the lutens and SDV realm, with only a complimentary helping of pipe tobacco, less so even than TFTV, please do not downplay if it is as sweet or sweeter than others listed. Thank you.
We will find the scent BN. Or i will make it LOL "
Then we could spray it in the folds of our handkerchiefs a la 4711
Still dazed and confused, but grateful for all the suggestions.
My Wardrobe
Reviews: http://www.basenotes.net/reviews/30
Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder.
My Antaeus can beat up your Armani.
Aramis has Mustang! A smooth, somewhat gentle, pipe tobacco on the cheap! Can be found at most drugstores! IMO it smells more expensive than it is!
While basically a cigar smoker, I also smoked a pipe for many years - tobaccos like Half and Half, Captain Black, Borkum Riff, Country Doctor.
I find that Versace Dreamer, ONLY after the top notes wear off, smells like pipe tobacco. A friend also said this when I wore it and I had never mentioned that to him.
I think most tobacco scents are touched with vanilla because it is so often used for scent and flavour.
I have tried Odori's Tobacco, but it is quite pricey, so I second LA's suggestion.
Last edited by Primrose; 18th January 2010 at 10:16 PM.
"No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
My sense is Odori is pricey, new and gets very little love in here. Tabacco was given four stars by Turin whose review had him marveling at the coincidence that someone was smoking a pipe nearby while he was test wearing it, He then realized there was no pipe- it was him. Odori is a new name they came up with for a line of men's scents launched recently. The mother company is Profumo di Firenze, which is the house Turin credits it to in his latest guide.
It seems tailor made for OPs quest, but it's $$$.
I have it. I love it. It's one of my five star frags. It was worth the bucks to me.
Vanilla and tobacco dominate (no "smoke" notes). It's like sticking your nose in a pipe tobacco pouch. Always feels to me like bourbon and cigars...
Last edited by StylinLA; 18th January 2010 at 11:47 PM.
Uhhh...haven't tried enough others to say. Got all fired up on it and wore it today.
A bit honeyed, vanilla. Tobacco definitely present. More sweet than not.
Last edited by StylinLA; 19th January 2010 at 03:49 AM.
How would you compare it to TFTV, in terms of sweetness, prominence of "unsmoked pipe tobacco", spiciness, and overall warmth and charm?
Same question for anyone who has tried them both.
And has anyone else besides the_good_life tried Vento Canale?
I think I gave Tom Ford a cursory sniff DULLAH, but not enough memory to make a comparison.
My Wardrobe
II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.
My Wardrobe
II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.


text:
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Frank M. Tursi, D.O. takes reigns of the nation's largest state osteopathic medical association.
|Outgoing president Alice Zal, DO administers the oath of office to Dr. Frank Tursi, the 100th president of POMA.
Dr. Tursi received his medical degree from the Philadelphia College of Osteopathic Medicine and completed his internship and residency at Millcreek Community Hospital. With his added qualifications in geriatric medicine, Dr. Tursi also practices at IHS at Bayside and Golden Living – Walnut Creek in Erie. He has been a POMA member for 30 years and has served with the House of Delegates, Board of Trustees and the Executive Committee. His is a past chairman of POMA District 7 and the state organization's chairman of the Department of Association Affairs.
LECOM graduate Michael D. Sobolewski, D.O. took the top prize for clinical essay writing at the POMA 103rd Annual Clinical Assembly and Scientific Seminar. The judges awarded the Golden Quill to Dr. Sobolewski for his study of ice hockey injuries among college athletes. The essay examined the impact of college hockey's intentional checking rule and how it has changed the number and scope of injuries. The Journal of the Pennsylvania Osteopathic Medical Association will publish his article.
Dr. Sobolewski is a third-year resident in orthopedic surgery at Millcreek Community Hospital in Erie. He received his bachelor of science in physical education and sports from Indiana University of Pennsylvania and his D.O. degree from LECOM, where he has also fulfilled the requirements for a master's of science degree in medical education. Upon completion of his orthopedic training, he plans to practice in Pennsylvania. He currently resides in Erie with his wife Maria and their two daughters, Meredith and Lauren.
Honorable mention went to Joshua A. Tuck, D.O., a fourth-year orthopedic surgery chief resident at Millcreek Community Hospital in Erie. Dr. Tuck's essay compared two treatments for pain caused by an arthritic condition, hallux rigidis, in the first metatarsophalangeal joint (of the big toe). A graduate of Notre Dame College, he received his D.O. degree from the University of New England College of Osteopathic Medicine. Following completion of his residency at MCH, Dr. Tuck will pursue an orthopedic sports medicine fellowship and join the LECOM Sports Medicine team. He lives in Erie with his wife Fran.
|Dr. Frank Tursi, center, congratulates POMA Clinical Essay winners Dr. Josh Tuck (left) and Dr. Michael Sobolewski.


text:
Aouphilla, 1981
Price on Request
Untitled, 1983
Untitled (Easel), 1983
Untitled, 1987
Tablet, 1967–1968
An Essay by Christopher Finch
I met Tony Shafrazi in London, in 1965, when he was a student in the Sculpture Department of the Royal College of Art. He introduced himself one evening at the Robert Fraser Gallery, then the hottest scene in town, where openings attracted the likes of Marlon Brando, Tony Curtis, Warren Beatty, John Lennon and Mick Jagger, and flocks of beauties like Marianne Faithfull in delectable minishifts by Mary Quant. I remember thinking that this cherubic young fellow had a lot of self-confidence for someone still in school. He would walk up to anyone and start a conversation, armed with a supersized grin that usually proved irresistible.
What impressed me about him from the first was that he was the only person I knew, from my generation anyway, who had more information about the contemporary art scene than I did. This was partly the product of prodigious reading, but also derived from the fact that at 22 he had already travelled to New York, where he quickly became warm acquaintances with Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Leo Castelli and other luminaries, and then proceeded by slow stages, getting on and off the bus when he recognized the name of a town from popular rock n' roll songs he had heard, to LA and Hollywood to spend the summer with his mother. In California he hooked up with Walter Hopps, Dennis Hopper, Wallace Berman, Larry Bell, Ed Ruscha, Billy Al Bengston and other core members of the Venice Beach cool school. Other London artists had spent time in America but they seemed to come back, if anything, more British than before. Tony, an Armenian born in Iran and raised there till he was thirteen, didn't have the same investment in thatched roofs, brown ale, and chips with everything, and seemed to have picked up a way of looking at things that was already inflected with an American bias.
Robert Fraser—an important and sometimes disruptive influence in Tony's life, and mine too—was another important link to America. An Old Etonian, given to wearing Savile Row suits and silk cravats, Robert was nonetheless as much at home in SoHo or Hollywood as in Mayfair. At his flat you would encounter Warhol, William Burroughs, and Keith Richards as well as scions of the British aristocracy, admittedly usually of the black sheep variety. At his gallery, Robert showed both British and American stars and rising stars, ranging from Claus Oldenberg, Jim Dine, and the California rat pack, to Richard Hamilton, Eduardo Paolozzi, Peter Blake and Patrick Caulfield. Robert kick-started my career by hiring me to write catalogues, and also introduced me to key editors at magazines like Art & Artists and the London edition of Vogue.
He promised Tony a show, of which more later.
Another regular meeting place was The Prince of Wales, on Princedale Road, near Ladbroke Grove, a pub that was popular with artists and rock musicians who lived around Notting Hill and Holland Park. There we would enjoy a pint with painters like Pat Caulfield, Alan Uglow, and John Hoyland, who would all soon make their mark, but the heavy art discussions would happen after closing time when Tony and I would repair to his bed-sitter on Norland Square, a block away. There we would dissect the latest issues of Art Forum, Art News, Art international, and so on, analyzing the reproductions—often in black & white--of work by artists like Carl Andre, Robert Smithson, Dan Flavin, Sol LeWitt, and Don Judd, some of whom would have significant roles in Tony's future. I often visited galleries and museums with him, and soon became aware that he had a remarkable eye, but the late nights spent poring over art magazines and books demonstrated that his analytical ability was equally impressive. Above all, the passion with which he would argue a case was more untrammeled than was usually the case in discussions about art in Britain in those days.
Surprisingly, a good deal of time went by before I saw much of Tony's work. Prior to the Royal College, he had attended Hammersmith College of Art and Architecture at Lime Grove where he had displayed a gift for three-dimensional portraiture and other kinds of figurative sculpture. It was perhaps primarily this skill that earned him his place at the Royal College, with only six students being admitted to the sculpture department every year. By the time he arrived there in 1963, he was already attempting to come to grips with the implications of recent American art. His 1965 trip to New York and California, and towns and truck stops in between, gave him first-hand exposure to transatlantic Pop and Minimalism, which provided the impetus for him to attempt ambitiously radical work. It also reinforced his determination to take Warhol as the subject of his RCA diploma dissertation, a daring choice at the time.
In New York, he had seen the classic minimalism of people like Judd and LeWitt, and in Los Angeles the "finish fetish" minimalism of artists like Craig Kaufmann, John McCracken, and Larry Bell. He found the extrusion technology employed by Kaufmann and others unappealing and, while he appreciated the directness and simplicity of McCracken's hard-edged, brightly-sprayed planks, his own sensibility pulled him in a different direction.
It was during this period that he began to develop the idea of the tablet. The word "tablet" has acquired multiple meanings, ranging from the stone or clay tablets on which early texts were recorded, to the tiny "cakes" into which pharmacological substances are shaped for easy ingestion, and, more recently, electronic devices such as internet tablets and the graphics tablets used in design and animation. What Tony imagined when he thought about the idea of the "tablet" was something that would be wall-mounted, square or rectangular in plan-form, with a significant depth to give it substance, and—most importantly—with rounded off edges, front and back, and corners too, which would give the object a very different character from an object of the same shape and size but with sharp edges. The shape, form, and feel of the tablet conveyed a great deal of information passed through its tactile nature, rather welcoming to the eye and easy, pleasing, and pregnant to the touch.
The first of these to see the light of day, made soon after his return from America, was Yellow Curve, an homage to the sidewalks of New York. Not long after was Red Tablet 2 (48 x 98 inches), a highly-finished red double square which was installed on the floor for his diploma show at the Royal College. The surfaces were fabricated from two layers of fiberglass with a layer of honeycomb material between ensuring absolute rigidity, so that there would be no unwanted reflections caused by warping, however slight. The object was sprayed many times with cellulose paint, and sanded down between each coat to ensure a glass-like surface. This was the beginning of a series of tablets that he would produce over the next three years, a group of which would be exhibited at the Ricky Schwartz Gallery in Amsterdam in 1967 (where Tony befriended Jan Dibbets who also exhibited there). These ranged from a red square to elongated rectangles seven feet tall. They also varied in color, from something approaching duck egg blue to a delicate near purple, though it's difficult to pin the colors down because they shifted subtly with the light.
This exhibition should have been followed by a larger exhibition at the Robert Fraser Gallery, which Tony had been promised some time earlier. Unfortunately, Robert was no longer at the gallery's helm, having first been imprisoned after a notorious and vindictive narcotics raid on the home of Keith Richards. Although other arrests were made, Robert was the only person to receive a jail sentence, and when he was released he took refuge in India. The scheduled Tony Shafrazi show never happened, but Tony took matters into his own hands and arranged to mount an exhibition on the ground floor of a loft building—one of the first in London to be colonized by artists—at 45 Tabernacle Street near Whitechapel in the East End. Turning the space into a gallery involved him in learning many new skills that would later stand him in good stead in New York.
"I had to completely fix the place up," he recalls, "and I'd never even heard of sheetrock. We had no money so I used two layers of wall paper and had smooth white walls."
Even more importantly, in order to launch his show successfully, he developed entrepreneurial and promotional skills that would prove of enormous value when he became a full time gallerist more than a decade later. Recalling the party atmosphere—sometimes verging on the orgiastic—that Robert Fraser brought to his openings, Tony made sure that there was a good sampling of the Beautiful People on hand—a pair of sexy twins in particular—and livened proceedings with the help of a professional wrestler dressed in a tuxedo serving champagne. Anthony Caro, David Hockney, Alan Jones and numerous others flocked to the out of the way location and the party overflowed onto the street. Among the artworks that were sold, the great collector Alan Power purchased the famous "Soap tablets" piece, and the Leicestershire County Council and the Arts Council of Great Britain acquired very large tablets for their collections.
In the Fall of 1969, Tony moved full time to New York, and he did so as an artist, not a dealer. He managed to get a teaching gig at the School of Visual Arts, but to support himself, like most artists he was thrown back on the skills he had acquired while fixing up that space on Tabernacle Street. He put up a new ceiling at Chuck Close's loft, and did extensive work on a building owned by the dealer Brooke Alexander. I had preceded him to America, having been offered a position as an associate curator at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, and moved to New York a couple of weeks after Tony hit town. For a while we shared an apartment on East 12th Street. In some ways it was like old times as, after meeting friends at Max's Kansas City, we would sit up all night talking about art, he as passionate and voluble as ever. We discussed an idea for producing a Duchamp-type box that would contain miniature boxes and images of boxes, and I remember Tony coming up with the notion of taking nighttime flashlight photographs of garbage on the sidewalks of SoHo. Increasingly he was thinking in terms of conceptual art, influenced by close friends like Robert Smithson, whose "Amarillo Ramp" Tony later helped to complete after Smithson's death in 1973.
New York had changed since his 1965 visit. The days of the original Warhol Factory and hangouts like the Dom seemed to belong to a lost age of innocence. The streets of the city had become a battleground pitting blacks against whites, students against hardhats, citizens against drug-dealers, cops against gays, and women against sexist men. Above all there was the Vietnam War and the domestic implosion from that tragedy manifested in events such as the 1970 shooting of students by National Guardsmen at Kent State University, an incident that provoked a huge reaction in the Art community. Tony was in the thick of protests such as the Art Workers Coalition's massive New York Art Strike which he brought out of the restricting confines of its tiny School of Visual Arts beginnings into the huge NYU Loeb Student Center, accommodating thousands of protestors and thus bringing it to the attention of a national and international audience. It was his activism at this time that led eventually to his widely publicized 1974 spray painting of Picasso's Guernica with the words "KILL LIES ALL." This was primarily a political act, but Tony later presented it as an artistic gesture too, telling Art in America, "I wanted to bring the art absolutely up to date, to retrieve it from art history and give it life."
He later explained that he felt it was utterly inconceivable to have the greatest antiwar painting ever and possibly the most important painting of the century on full view in the Museum of Modern Art in New York while the US government blindly pursued daily bombings and destruction in Vietnam for 14 years. It was as if the painting had been lulled, made speechless, and hence invisible. What Tony did was give it a voice – he gave it speech and let it scream out.
In the wake of this episode, Tony moved to a Lower East Side apartment close to the home of underground filmmaker Jack Smith, of Flaming Creatures fame, which led to a friendship, and to Tony producing a "cinematic book" titled Moogambo in which an exotic story is told in photographic tableaux accompanied by an enigmatic text.
Until the mid 1970s, then, Tony Shafrazi was an artist, pure and simple. Then an unlikely set of circumstances intervened and he found himself thrust into the role of art advisor to the newly planned Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, working closely with Kamran Diba, the distinguished Iranian architect then serving as temporary museum director. Shuttling between Tehran and New York, Tony persuaded Diba to build one of the greatest contemporary collections of western art in the world. Soon after Tony opened his own small gallery in Tehran, there were tanks on the streets as the revolution that ousted the Shah, and replaced his rule with the Islamicist regime of Ayatollah Khomeini, which brought the era to an end.
Tony returned to America and in 1979 opened his first Manhattan gallery in SoHo, and so began his 33 year career as a prominent and very visible art dealer. His record in providing a home for some of the leading artists of the generation that came to the fore in the 1980s—Keith Haring, Kenny Scharf, and Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Donald Baechler for example—speaks for itself. He has also represented figures like Dennis Hopper and William Burroughs, prominent crossovers from other mediums, and the gallery has housed numerous museum quality shows featuring artists of the stature of Picasso, Warhol, and Francis Bacon. As the American representative of the Bacon estate, Tony has been especially active in encouraging research into the many-layered aspects of the artist's life and work.
To talk with Tony about Bacon, or Basquiat, is to realize how passionately he identified with them. It's easy to imagine how excited he must have been when he first encountered artists like Haring and Basquiat, who must have reminded him of his own early days. It turns out that those days have never been forgotten and now he has returned to developing the idea of the tablet, left behind when he moved to America but not abandoned. This new incarnation of that concept reaches back to the tablets of the 1960s in terms of form, but superimposes on that platform imagery that conjures up today's digital tablets—the iPads and Androids that bring information into our lives wherever we are. The tactile quality that Tony sought for in the original tablets is still there, but now it is dissolved by similacra of the flickering displays that bring us news and entertainment and link us to friends and to the workplace.
There are any number of gallerists out there who will tell you that they set out to be artists and were diverted into selling art for one good reason or another, usually lack of talent. Tony Shafrazi did not merely aspire to be an artist but in fact created a body of work that demonstrated that he was an artist. Circumstances diverted him into dealership, giving him the opportunity to demonstrate that artists make the best gallerists. Like any real artist, however, he has never been able to shed the desire to make art, and we should be thankful for the fact that he has succumbed once again to its allure and irresistible pull.
—From the catalogue "TONY SHAFRAZI – Why Not" published by Tony Shafrazi Gallery, New York for the occasion of Art Basel, 2012. © Tony Shafrazi Gallery, New York 2012
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