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Andy Griffith, creator of Mayberry, dies at 86
Griffith's skill at playing a lovable rube was first established on a comedic monologue titled "What It Was, Was Football," about a bumpkin attending a college football game.
That led to his first national television exposure on "The Ed Sullivan Show" in 1954 and the stage and screen versions of "No Time for Sergeants," a production that cast Griffith as Will Stockdale, an over-eager young hillbilly who, as a draftee in the Air Force, overwhelms the military with his rosy attitude.
His television career slowed down in the 1970s but resumed in 1986 with "Matlock," a light-hearted legal drama in which Griffith played a cagey Harvard-educated, Southern-bred attorney with a leisurely law practice in Atlanta.
Decked out in his seersucker suit in a steamy courtroom (air conditioning would have spoiled the mood), Matlock could toy with a witness and tease out a confession like a folksy Perry Mason.
This new character - law-abiding, fatherly and lovable - was like a latter-day homage to Sheriff Andy Taylor, updated with silver hair. The show aired though 1995.
Griffith was inducted into the Academy of Television Arts Hall of Fame in 1992. In 2005, he received the Presidential Medal of Freedom, one of the country's highest civilian honors.
In a statement Tuesday, President Barack Obama said Griffith's characters "warmed the hearts of Americans everywhere."
Griffith's signature role "put heavy pressure on him because everyone felt like he was their best friend," Fincannon said. "With great grace, he handled the constant barrage of people wanting to talk to Andy Taylor."
In the coastal town of Manteo, Griffith protected his privacy with help from a circle of friends who revealed little to nothing about him.
Strangers who asked where Griffith lived would receive circular directions that took them to the beach, said William Ivey Long, the Tony Award-winning costume designer whose parents were friends with Griffith and his first wife, Barbara.
Griffith and Knotts had become friends while performing in "No Time for Sergeants" and remained so until Knotts' death at 81.
Knotts' widow, Francey Yarborough Knotts, said Griffith was in good spirits when she spoke with him June 1, his birthday.
"Don and I loved Andy very much," she said in a statement. "Andy and Don had a great friendship and a great creative partnership. Throughout their lives, they continued to have fun together and discuss the art of comedy and acting."
Asked in 2007 to name his favorite episodes, Griffith cited those that emphasized Knotts' character.
"The second episode that we shot I knew Don should be funny and I should play straight for him," Griffith said. "That opened up the whole series because I could play straight for everybody else. And I didn't have to be funny. I just let them be funny."
Griffith's generosity toward his cast mates paid off richly for those fellow actors, particularly Knotts.
Sheriff Taylor was ever-indulgent with the twitchy, bug-eyed Deputy Fife and loved joshing with him just for sport. The result was five supporting-actor Emmys for Knotts.


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Fighting Rogue Access Points At linux.conf.au 80
from the your-boy-zoolander's-on-the-move dept.
We've improved Slashdot's video section; now you can view our video interviews, product close-ups and site visits with all the usual Slashdot options to comment, share, etc. No more walled garden! It's a work in progress -- we hope you'll check it out (Learn more about the recent updates).
At a recent event, we utilized Cisco's Wireless Access Controller. We are an all-Cisco house, so it was an easy choice.
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/ps6302/Products_Sub_Category_Home.html [cisco.com]
android phone + cyanogenmod + grandfathered verizon unlimited data plan = "it may not be perfect, but it gets the job done and it is still way better than the dialup connection I used back in the day."
unless I'm in some building shielded with sandwiched lead sheets or something. in which case, hell, screw it, time to read an ebook.
The meat is rotten, but the booze is holding out. Computer translation of "The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak."

subset: commoncrawl


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sign is a Freebie here...
|My Data Nest Here is where I will keep track of major District Examinations.
|My Data Nest Here is where I will keep track of major District Examinations.
Love it all!!! I'm obsessed with all the chevron and owls!! Great job Layla! And thanks for the shout out :)ReplyDelete
Love, love your owl library labels!! :) I haven't been able to get in my classroom yet, so I'm getting anxious to gt started. So many great ideas though!! Thanks for the comment. :)ReplyDelete
Your room looks great! I am anxious to get my room completed as well...Monday of next week! :)
Your room is great! I really like the owl chair. What a good idea about using a rug!
Teaching Fourth
Thank you for stopping by my blog! Your room looks AMAZING! I love your colors and organization!
The Daily Cupcake…A Kindergarten Blog
Layla, this looks amazing! I love your wall decorations, especially the root words and synonyms displays. Nice work!ReplyDelete
Your room looks fantastic!! I just love the owl theme & how you incorporated it into everything. So cute! Thanks for stopping by my blog :)
First Grade Fairytales
This comment has been removed by the author.ReplyDelete
Your classroom looks so homey! I love it! (Sorry, I made a typo before)
Teaching With Stowe
What did you hang on the walls? Is it fabric or paper? How did you hang it? Did it sag during the year? Lol
I also would like to know what you used to cover your walls and how it worked for the year.ReplyDelete
how did you make the chevron board-are those actual clipboards? thanks !ReplyDelete


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2013 trailing blackberry report
Heres my annual take on how various trailing blackberries have been doing. The background for those who missed previous reports is I am looking for a berry that tastes as good as Marionberry, my favorite blackberry, but can take the cold winters and hot/humid summers of Maryland. I have tested quite a few varieties over the years and found that most are either not hardy enough, or they stop growing and start looking sad once the heat of summer kicks in. Note that none of these are the standard east coast varieties, this is an experiment with western type berries in the east.
Past failures: Marionberry (not hardy), Loganberry (not hardy), Tayberry (didn't like flavor), Metolius (had no flavor), Cascade (not hardy/dislikes heat), Cascade Trailing (ditto), Wild Treasure (ditto).
This years data:
Black Diamond - Has a very "black" flavor like Marion, a good dark blackberry selection. When they are fully ripe they are a very good blackberry. They are not super sweet but the flavor is very good. It has been doing OK but not great as far as growing goes - better than many but they still shut down in the heat.
Kotata - Excellent as usual, sweet, rich and a bit of that clove aromatics of Logan. These berries have big drupes and are very soft when ripe - no good for commercial growing but great backyard fruits. Plants growing vigorously, but some of the ones from last year died back.
Siskiyou - Very similar to Kotata but larger. I also had a lot of dieback on these from the previous winter, partly due to lots of cane borer problems.
Boysenberry thorned - These have significantly less flavor than Kotata/Siskiyou. I had a couple dead ripe ones I could compare to Kotata ripe next plant over and the Kotata won hands down. Kotata is more sweet, more sour, more flavor. They are relatively easy growers and I will give them another year or two but they are not in my top category.
NZ 9671-1 - Not enough fruits for a good evaluation. It has more blackberry flavor in it than the Kotata et al. Berries are not developing good uniform shape or size. This plant is also not a good grower, it is too unhappy in the heat. Hardiness is OK. Heading to reject pile I expect.
Newberry - This is a very "fruity" berry with more true raspberry overtones than these hybrids usually have. Doesn't have the darker blackberry flavors even though it ripens to a darker color than Boysen/Kotata. Growth seems OK, similar to the other ones that are hanging in there. definitely a keeper.
Orus 1431-1 - Somewhat similar to Black Diamond in that its a black berry with good flavor but not a lot of sweetness. Seemed a bit better than BD in the flavor category. This guy seems to shut down on growing in the heat, the leaves curl up.
- no berries on any of these guys; they are not growing well enough to even fruit. Along with not taking the heat these guys all have hardiness issues (and they could be related, weak plants have a hard time making it through the winter). Almost certainly they will be rejects.
Overall, Kotata/Siskiyou/Orus 1431-1/Newberry all seem to be doing good enough to keep. They are not super happy with the heat but I expect I can keep a good stand of them going over the years - if they fail one year they still come back well the next. Black Diamond seems a touch down in terms of vigor. Boysen is in the top vigor category with the four above, but is not as flavorful. The rest are probably history.
Oh, my Triple Crown have not come in yet but thats my favorite "eastern" blackberry. U Ark. has a new one, Osage, that sounds like it will be worth trying out.
Ditto on the thorned boysenberry. It is incredibly vigorous here in California but lacks flavor IMO.
I don't have frost issues here so I can't comment on hardiness, but I can provide input on flavor.
Siskiyou has great flavor.
Ollalie is a winner for me. Sour up until dead ripe, then has very complex and sweet flavor.
Tripple crown has that grocery store blackberry taste, with the volume turned up so to speak. Can be picked less ripe than the other varieties I have. Not as sour when ripe.
Black satin has a very gentle flavor, much less acid than the others, but still flavorful.
I had three thornless: Black Diamond, Black Pearl, and Wild Treasure. I think I'm right on that. Got rid of them when having back issues and regret it now. I really liked the fruit of Diamond and Pearl.
If my memory serves me right I think it was Black Diamond that had a dwarf character to it's growth. The growth was very robust but it grew at a small fraction of the growth rate of Black Pearl and even less compared to Wild Treasure. Treasure had thin canes and wild growth. I much preferred the growth on Black Diamond.
Scott does that sound at all like the growth character of your Black Diamond?
Black Diamond...I think. It circled a couple times.
Wild Treasure on lower right. Canes circled many times and then shot out all those small shoots after tipping. Black Pearl had an intermediate growth rate.
This post was edited by fruitnut on Mon, Jul 8, 13 at 12:15
Yup that sounds like Black Diamond, fruitnut. I am surprised the Wild Treasure was vigorous for you, I thought you had more heat there than I have. Maybe your humidity is lower? My WT plants would grow fast in cool weather but shut down for most of the summer. BD just chugs along, never fast.
Oh I realized I left another failure off my list above, Black Pearl was not hardy. I never tried Ollalie or Black Satin, I think they were rated poorly in hardiness.
Maybe your blackberries are shutting down because of lower water not the heat. The heat in my greenhouse should be similar to yours, ave ~ 92/64 in summer. Mine grew all summer as long as they had water and some nitrogen. And that was in pots where growth should be less.
I'm going to get Black Diamond again. I liked the fruit about as well as anything. The slow growth and lack of thorns are pluses for me.
Trailing Berry Update.
Marionberry - easily the best tasting berry of the group and consistent in flavor. Last year these were all potted but I have two in the ground and will cover them up this year. Those in the ground are very vigorous growers. Small crops from all three plants but ripe berries had a consistently excellent flavor. Purchased two additional plants. An additional issue to hardiness is that the canes are brittle, and easily damaged. This can be especially problematic because there are fewer canes but they grow really long. I have a 12ft cane on one plant and I'm worried that it's going to break somewhere near the bottom and lose all of that growth. Definitely worth protecting over winter.
Black Diamond - planted in the ground this spring but over wintered in a pot last year. Small, non-vigorous plant but high berry density given the plant size. Berries didn't have much flavor even when dead ripe. Will protect this year and try it again next year. Single cane this year is all I have to work with.
Silvan - inconsistent flavor and berries were soft and hard to remove without squishing them. When ripe, nice flavor, somewhat similar to marionberries. Earliest ripening of the trailing berries by a few days. Was potted over winter and will stay potted for this year. Slightly thornier than average.
Wild Treasure - inconsistent flavor. Plant produced a lot of small but aromatic berries and the plant was very vigorous. The first bunch of ripe berries were reminiscent of marionberries but the remainder where just plain bad. I finally just left them to the birds. They tasted like what stink bug smells like - yuck! The cane growth this year is very good. The potted one from last year has several canes of 10ft and the tip rooted clone (it's planted in the ground) is about 6ft long. I'm keeping one potted and overwintering it. These were also early producers being a few days behind Silvan.
Loganberry - first couple were tasted like a raspberry but the last several had a bad flavor kind of like a stink bug again. I used the same potting mix on this one and Wild Treasure so maybe a connection. Much like everyone says about productivity, my Logan only produced about a dozen berries this year. The plant growth is actually moderately vigorous. Have one that will remain potted and several that were just planted this year and will be covered for the winter. Hoping for a better showing next year.
Boysenberry (Thorny) - I had high hopes based on other's feedback but only had a few berries due to a late planting last year and their flavor was not that strong; more like a raspberry in flavor. I'm kind of expecting the flavor to be more robust as the plant gets established. I have five planted and a couple in pots. The planted ones from last year have exploded in growth and are now a nearly a tangled mass. Will cover most of the planted ones during the winter but may leave one uncovered just to see what happens to it.
Boysenberry (Thornless) - Similar to the thorny version but less robust in growth with very little flavor. Decided to remove the planting because there really wasn't a reason to keep it. Boysens seem highly susceptible to anthracnose, which has been a constant struggle to contain. Could also be my plant source too.
Obsidian - no berries due to spring planting but cane growth is moderate. Seems to have crinkled leaves, not sure if this is the same thing that was happening to Scott's.
Kotata - Planted last fall and moderately vigorous growers. Were over wintered in pots and protected. Planted in ground this spring and will cover for protection during the next winter. Thorniest blackberry plants that I have. I have a couple of blooms and maybe a few berries in month. The additional plants ordered from BRN were the wrong variety and appear to be some erect variety.
I have Prime-Ark 45 and Kiowa ripening now and the Triple Crowns seem to be several weeks away from ripening. For comparison, the Prime Arks are better tasting than all of the above except for Marions. This may be a reflection of my climate.
So a few considerations regarding my flavor ratings above:
- Climate - a cold, wet spring and early summer with less than normal sunshine. In just 2 days of sunshine my non-trailing berries taste much better.
- My general inexperience with these plantings could have affected the flavor. Bad potting mixes and/or fertilizers.
- Something else ...???
Sometimes they taste like stinkbugs because that's what's been feeding on them.
Marionberry didn't stand out for flavor in my planting. The three thornless were just as good or better. Maybe it's a climate or sunshine thing. We have sun nearly everyday.
Do you think I can grow Marionberries in my zone 6-b/7-a? Would love to taste them.
That is another excellent report. This will be the first summer I will have enough 'Ouachita' thornless blackberries for a pie. Having not tasted them yet, I am so sorry I planted them. They have never gotten a good review here. I'll let you know they are still green.
Regarding marionberries, you could grow them in a large nursery pot (10 gal.) and move them in doors when the temps fall below 20F. If you grow them outside, you would need to cover them up during the colder parts of the winter. So far, they have been very resistant to disease and hot weather.
I planted 5 Ouachita late last year and they are growing really well although I won't have any berries this year. I'm holding out hope that they taste better than expected. In most ratings, Prime Ark 45 is rated only as "good" and Ouachita is rated "very good" to "excellent". The prime ark 45's I'm getting now are tasting pretty good now that I'm finally getting some sunshine.
I'm also hoping that Triple Crown tastes as good as reported. I have 7 of those that are full of green berries.
Black Diamond was developed for ease of commercial harvest with very short fruiting stems and an open habit, rather than dense, branching growth. Long season. Does not compete well among other caneberries--give it room. Prickly the first foot but thornless thereafter. Mine have very good flavor. Some canes have reached 15 feet. Easy to train.
The first fruitnut photo is Black Diamond.
Fruitnut, its been a near-constant downpour this summer and they are doing the slo-mo thing already. I will make sure to water them in the dry periods and see if that helps. Your soil and water are probably optimal so that could make up for the rough climate.
Mrs G, I grew Marion covered for several years, it works well. I have too little time to cover anything anymore though.
Wont have my readiness report till at least August :) Currently have Boysen (thorny), Chester,TC, Prime Ark, Prime Jan and Logan. Boysen's will be the first to ripen as they are starting to turn with the sun coming out full force here in the last week. 90's mainly. Chesters are a very prodigous producer and will be used for baking/wine. Ill get a full report when season gets a little bit further along.
Looking to try out Osage and Loch Ness next year on a trial basis and see about maybe replacing one of my beds with them if they are winners in this Climate.
LOCH-NESS ® Thornless, SEMI-ERECT, is a patented variety from the National Seed Development Organization in Scotland. Loch Ness should become one of the very best all time thorn less blackberries for the home garden. Unlike many other types of blackberries, Loch Ness does not produce thorny canes from root system . Loch Ness is truly thorn less. It is extremely productive. Loch Ness has similar genealogy to Black Satin, Hull, but Loch Ness is a much better tasting berry and has real gourmet quality. Canada's top small fruit specialist has tested Loch Ness at British Columbia Abbotsford Fruit Testing Station and gives it the highest rating for a berry of this type. Zone 5-8
Mrs G, it also usually doesn't get below 10F here. I grew them without covering for two years and they died back. The hardiness numbers on the trailing blackberries are not very accurate. You can always try without covering, the worst that can happen is you get set back a year.
AB, I didn't supply as much hardiness data as I had in the above. The borers had weakened many canes so I could not tell for sure if it was the winter or the borers that caused some canes to die. Still, I did make some guesses and I put Boysen and Black Diamond in the most hardy category, Obsidian, 1431-1, Kotata, Siskiyou a notch down from those, and the rest less hardy.
Loch Ness was only rated fair in the U Oregon blackberry cultivars report so I passed on it but the ratings there are not always accurate.
Raintree calls Loch Ness richly tart. It does sound interesting but usually when a nursery admits something is tart it's really tart. Being thornless though I may have to try this one. They also say highly productive and monstrously large fruit.
The hottest sun is always the best to avoid - noon to 2PM or so. Of course its hard to avoid just that. Morning sun is better than afternoon. My patch is shaded later in the afternoon.
I am starting to think the soil also may be an issue for these more sensitive berries. Blackberries I usually just plant directly, and top dress with compost. Raspberries I treat like veggies, I till a lot of compost into the soil before planting. I have one row of blackberries that I tilled in a lot of organics on (I started raspberries there and switched) and those guys are doing better.
I would think one needs an established plant at least 3 years old, 5 years would be better to judge. Although ones that show promise early are worth looking into. Like some peaches, sometimes a few years growth makes a difference. If plant is not producing well because of young age, it may not be fair to evaluate it. Also some that taste good now, might lose vigor and taste with time. I noticed in some trials of wyeberry that in the 1st year productivity was low. But reading about 5 year old plants, they produced tremendous amounts.
I'm interested in Navaho because of the upright nature, supposedly the best tasting upright and certainly winter hardy. Also one can display this on a trellis as a fan, so has ornamental value too. Sounds like a winner to me. I planted one this year.
Thanks for this report, it certainly points me to good berries if I need to replace any of my current plants.
Since my trailing blackberries were all potted last year, I would give them full sun (8:00AM - 8:00PM) and that did not seem to bother them. With that said, the pots they were in would dry out quickly in the sun and required frequent watering. As long as I watered them, they did fine in my climate (around Cincinnati) in full sun. My raspberries seem to be the exception and appreciate partial shade / less sun.
It's interesting that more than one of you have reported some sort of leaf-curl on the Obsidian. I planted one this year in the spring and it has done nothing but produce some weird curled leaves. It doesn't look healthy at all. I've sprayed for pests and the nearby boysenberries, loganberries, black diamond, black satin, doyle, chester, triple crown, etc do no have any curls at all. You'd think a pest would attack the other plants right near by as well, wouldn't you?
I bought 2 Obsidian earlier this year from Raintree in 4" inch pots and planted them in the ground. They started off with normal leaves but then started sprouting leaves that were crinkled and that continues today. Mine are both growing reasonably well otherwise. I have about 4 canes on each plant and the canes are somewhere between 3-4 ft in length. Obsidian are the only variety that does this in my diverse berry patch. It could be environmental but I think it is more likely a virus. It is my understanding that not all viruses are potentially damaging by themselves. Sometimes they create the pathway for other infections to occur. I had both wild blackberries and wild black raspberries in the vicinity prior to developing the berry patch so it could have come from there too.
A quick look online to match what I'm seeing on my Obsidian blackberries landed me on this page: http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/berrytool/raspberry/leavesstems/Raspcurling.htm
The picture most similar to the leaves on my plants are #3 Blackberry psyllid caused curling. I'm not sure my leaved are curled this badly but close. So maybe it isn't a virus...
Are you seeing any white bugs? Do you have evergreens around? I'm wondering if I have BP on my TC (see aphid thread)?
Here is a link that might be useful: White bugs, curling leaves on TCB
The 2 Obsidian blackberries do not sit side-by-side and they are located near the middle of the row, with a row of brambles on each side of them. No other plants in the whole berry patch, 7 rows, has similar symptoms. There is one evergreen, a spruce, about 100ft away, but that's the only evergreen around. Everything else is deciduous.
I don't think its a pest, all my Obsidian did that curled leaf thing. Either its a virus that got into a major stock producer or its something in the genes of the plant which shows up in some climates. Either way it really limited how well the plants have done for me. I have one three-year plant left thats about 3" tall now. Not 3', 3".
That's not promising. On a slightly different topic, I noticed a couple of advanced selections 'ORUS 2711-1' and 'ORUS 2635-1' that are an interspecific hybrid between eastern and western blackberries. Could they be a hardier blackberry with trailing berry flavor? Nor Cal had samples last year. Do you have to be professional grower to get samples?
jtburton's description of the Obsidian is identical to mine (including the picture on the link). I bought mine at Lowe's (don't hate me, people). None of my other plants have the problem even though they are all in very close proximity.
Should I just pull the thing now and plant something else? The plant looks generally terrible.
Getting the experimental varieties is not easy. I had to buy 50 of four varieties to get some of the ones I tried; the limit is usually a lot higher since its for commercial plantings only. I bought from Northwest Plants. Some places occasionally have samples, I got the 1431-1 from someone who picked it up retail at Sakuma market I believe. Sakuma and NorCal are the same people. The experimental varieties are often not listed on the website, you need to call to find out what they have. The two above and North American Plants are three of the bigger western tissue culture outfits. If you find a source let me know :-) I'm also looking for Osage, Berries Unlimited sold out of it before I noticed they had it. I expect they get their tissue cultures from North American Plants, the variety overlap is about perfect.
San Jose, CA (all plants are 2-3 years old)
In order of preference:
Marionberry - best tasting hands down (wife agrees), very complex flavor
Olallieberry - tart until dead ripe, but when it's ripe it's only a little below the flavor of Marion
Black Satin - I had heard this was a "cooking" variety but the berries are great out of hand. Has a more classic taste than the above. Bonus (no thorns!)
Boysen (thorny) - The berries hardened and shriveled as they were ripening. Only one of my berries to do this, wish I had gotten to try some
Triple Crown - first year getting berries from it, they are good, but not at the level of the above berries. No thorns :)
Prime Jim/Jan/Ark-45 - Vigorous, upright growth, pretty good berries, nasty thorns
Natchez - pretty good berry, upright and thornless
Ouachita, Navaho, Arapaho - better than supermarket blackberries, but that isn't saying much. Upright and thornless though.
My Raintree Obsidian planted May 2013 is doing the same thing; good growth the first two feet and then newer leaves deformed and cane tip looks stunted. Would have coincided with a heat spell, FWIW. Other nearby varieties unaffected.
The white bugs referred to above are probably psyllids.
I've seen the same curling (probably Blackberry Psyllid) this year on a potted Kiowa and last year on some Triple Crown.
My very preliminary report:
Boysenberry (thorny)- Last year they were my favorite berry. This year, they have to be almost dead ripe to be palatable. Even then, my wife and kids have rejected them as "way too sour". I'm guessing the early warm spring made a big difference last year. This year, the colder weather and rain only delayed the first ripe berries by about a week (around July 1st this year), but the sweetness just wasn't there.
Kiowa (2nd year, potted)- Only one berry so far, but it was huge and tasty. I'm looking forward to the rest.
Ouachita- Had the first one today and it was better than I remember them last year. It didn't have the sour/off flavor. We'll see how the rest do.
Prime Jan- They are just starting to ripen. Most of the ripe ones have a lot of white druplets from sun scald.
Marion (2nd year, potted)- One berry so far and it was the best of the year. Sweet with plenty of flavor.
Apache, Natchez, and Triple Crown are not yet ripe.
Bob - I picked the leaves (only 3) off the 1 cane affected, I will have to scout to make sure there aren't more. Some leaves are curled at the bottom but the tip is OK, I actually wonder if those 3 would have been fine once they got a little larger. But definitely had insects in the canes, don't see them now since a brief but heavy T-storm night before last.
But since you've had them, can you tell me what to do for control and when? I found a few websites that said Surround, but didn't say when to apply.
Sorry to hijack, please if anyone has any suggestions post them on the other thread. Thanks
Bob, I am pretty sure my Obsidian did not have psyllid on them, I inspected them and found no signs of bugs. I have dealt with psyllids on other plants so I should have been able to notice it. ajs mama, I'll stick a note on your thread on how I dealt with them.
Thanks for your report. Maybe it was a bad year for the Boysens; it was my first year for them but I will give them another. Kiowa and Siskiyou have been reliably good every year for me.
Sorry Scott- I didn't mean to imply that you or the other posters had psyllid, just that I had it (I've seen signs of insects). There are so many posters who have the leaf curl on just Obsidian, it seems to be inherent to the variety. Or, as was mentioned, a virus that got propagated. If you hadn't said that yours were clean of insect signs, I would have suggested that psyllid just found it particularly tasty.
Regarding Boysenberry, I'm a bit worried that last year was an outlier, as the weather was quite unusual here and this year's spring was much more normal. I'm guessing ABz5B will have a better luck with them, as he should get a lot more sun in Arizona. Even so, I'm definitely giving them another shot based on last year. If they are like this next year, I'll try them in Jam.
I have an addendum to the above report, I was not getting any fully ripe Newberries since the birds were going after them. I decided to put some bags on a few berries to taste some really ripe ones.. they are incredible! They are sweeter and richer flavored than any of the others. They are part raspberry so don't taste like classic blackberry, they have their own unique flavor not exactly like any berry I have tasted. Definitely worth checking out. I think Raintree is selling them now.
After reading several of these forum blackberry reports over the years, there must be a lot of quality difference in any one variety per growing conditions.
Just U-picked some Boysens yesterday near Oregon City and they are very flavorful--and they likely would be if grown in my garden 20 miles distant.
So everybody gets to try several varieties and see what works best for them.
Im starting to think the same thing. Boysenberries in my area are phenomenal better than Marionberry which isn't hardy enough for my area. Always used to get them from Oregon when i drove through there each year. Different combinations of humidity/Sun and temp must play a fairly decent role in determining flavors in each variety. Guess that's why i trial all sorts of berries that never make it in to my final patch. Work in progress and that is part of the fun i guess :)
Until recently east and west coast varieties were almost all different -- strawberries, raspberries, blackberries. This is the root of why, even if they grow and produce berries the flavor can be very different. One west coast blackberry that was particularly bad for me was Metolius, it had no flavor at all. I am sure that one is a lot better in Oregon or it never would have been released.
I agree for sure regional difference exist. But all are worth trying because some west coast varieties could also turn out to be better here. Especially with plants that originated from eastern zones in the first place.
Something I'm seeing is how much better my plants in raised beds are doing compared to those that are not. For my environment raised beds are the way to go. My blackberries are in the ground, and although growing, are growing a lot slower than the raspberries in the raised beds. And it's not the soil, as the ground was heavily amended a year in advance.
I'm thinking of ripping out the blackberries and putting a raised bed there. My wife would kill me, but I'm wearing her down. Also the added benefit of controlling the spread, my dog tending to want to water them, and a more defined border making it easier to cut the grass. I guess in the fall while dormant would be the time to move them and replant them. Not to mention in looks more landscaped, and not as scattered looking.
Obsidian. I checked both my Obsidian plants and they are growing despite having crinkled leaves. Long-term this may do them in but for now they are still OK.
Newberry. I love trying new berry plants but I'm reaching my max on plants. I had ordered a couple of Siskiyou and a couple of Black Satin to try a couple of weeks ago and that will have to be it for this year. I'm going to have to wait on the Newberries until something else dies or is pulled. I figure that next spring I'll have some vacancies.
Flavors. I found a bountiful patch of ripe wild blackberries and sampled those to get a baseline for blackberry flavor again. The overall taste is in line with my Eastern berries (Kiowa and Ark45). I also ate one my last marionberries and can confirm that they have the best taste for me so far. Whether ripe or slightly under ripe, they possess such a full flavor.
Sunlight. I can tell a difference in my Ark45 berries flavor when they ripen over a week with a lot of sunshine. They are sweeter and have a fuller flavor. Last year we had record highs but a lot of sunshine. This year is has been less sunshine and more rain. I would place a guess that some varieties are highly sensitive to changes in sunlight during ripening.
BB List:
Boyseberry thorny grows in partial shade, afternoon sun, three years old, lots of canes and leaves, never had a berry.
Boysenberrt thornless, grows in partial shade, morning sun, three years old, handful of canes, had berries that were ok nothing to write home about.
Loganberry thornless, grows in partial shade, morning sun, two canes, a handful of berries that dried out due to weird heat wave. I tasted only a few out of about a dozen. They were good but last year I grew them in the front yard with morning and afternoon sun and they were delicious, my favorite when compared to Triple Crown which grew next to it. I was able to pick fruit for several weeks around May to June.
Triple Crown, partial shade, morning sun, some berries but grows vigorously. Last year had them in front as they are in pots, and had lots of very nice and tasty berries. They were my second favorite last year, not this year.
Natchez thornless, partial shade, morning sun, grows nice and thick cane but only had a few berries which are my least favorite. But I have never moved them into full sun.
Ouchita thornless, partial and morning sun in backyard had no berries. Morning and some afternoon sun in front yard, growing in very large container, six canes, two plants, grew onto roof and loved the all day sun there. These were this year's favorite. They had nice large and sweet fruit for maybe five weeks.I had fruit every few days.
There is a huge Mulberry tree shading my backyard and a few trees next to my front yard. After moving plants around, I learned that the sun makes the difference in taste. Also, the planter size also made a difference.
I also make various composts- Bokashi and Vermicompost. I add the worms with a few handfuls of compost into the soild under the mulch and add Bokashi tea every once in awhile.
The only blackberry plant that has died on me so far is the Black Satin. It was vigorous when I got it but it might have been sensitive to overwatering during the heat of the summer. I am in Zone 8a-9, Sacramento, CA.
I have been eyeing the Wild Treasure but now I am not so certain as I see the not so great results. I am looking for a trailing. I might have to settle for Marion if I cannot get a good one to add to my collection. My neighbor plans to cut down four trees in her front yard. So... if/when she does that, I can get some more blackberry fruiting in the front. So, I a making my wish list.
Obsidian growers. I noticed a picture of a test plot of Obsidian being grown in North Carolina in this presentation: http://www.vsuag.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/VA_STATE_2013.pdf
In the picture, the Obsidian appear to share a similar growth pattern with curled leaves as we had discussed. It might be interesting to check in with their program to see what they have observed.
Chad Finn might respond to an email, most breeders tend to ignore emails but I have heard back from him.
I read the original paper on Obsidian (see below) and there was no mention of leaf curl. So its either a virus or something that happens to it in hotter climates than it was tested in.
I got my last few 1431-1's this morning, they are excellent and very close if not equal to Marion in quality. The plant is very short and bushy compared to other cultivars, making it more compact and probably more friendly for backyard growers. It also doesn't like the heat very much but on the plus side it gets no leaf spotting at all.
Here is a link that might be useful: Obsidian paper
Isoh, Boysen comes first, it was 2-3 weeks ago. Newberry is a week or so later than Boysen; there is some overlap. My Triple Crown are now pink so they won't be ripe for a couple more weeks. I do still have a few plants, I pulled up the bed but a couple sprouts came up and I kept them.
I had my first few triple crown this week and they are noticeably sweeter than my other eastern varieties and I haven't even let them get that ripe. The first day they turned black, I ate them. I was surprised that they sweeten that quick. They aren't as flavorful as the marion but they are sweeter.
The research station here offers this contact link:
An update to my earlier report:
Triple Crown- I planted TC 4 years ago and this by far the best year. Part of it may be better pruning, as I tipped them early in the summer, then hacked them back pretty hard late last summer. In fact, it almost looked like a line of small fruit trees, rather than the impenetrable mess from previous years. This year, production is huge, far exceeding any other berry. The berries themselves are also huge and have great flavor.
Apache- Planted 3 years ago, the berry size is almost up to the TC. But while they are also sweet, the flavor of Apache isn't strong. It's not bad, but when comparing the two TC is the winner.
I tried measuring their brix and both seem to be in the 8.5-10 range, with TC slightly higher. It's difficult to measure, as the reading doesn't show up well. It may be that the juice is too dark to let enough light through...
Ouachita- Planted 3 years ago. Above I mentioned that the early berries didn't have the sour/off flavor. While true, they also don't get the super-sweet and flavorful quality that TC had this year. The berries are also smaller. I'll probably keep it another year
Prime Jan- I cut most of the canes to the ground this spring to focus on the fall crop. Next year, I'll cut them all to the ground, as the berry quality just can't compete. But, as I found out last year, the late-season primocanes are nice to have when no other blackberries are ripe.
The pic below are Triple Crown berries I picked earlier today.
I've been enjoying following this thread. My thorny boysen tasted good this year, nicely juicy/staining, medium to small seed amount. Not as spectacular as I had hoped in terms of flavor, but very good considering it's its first year. The few marionberry got snatched by critters.
My Kiowa were 75% of crop too sour, 25% mild/little flavor, 25% perfect sweet-tart balance for a blackberry. I don't think it was always because of stage of ripeness... just seems inconsistent in general. Large and plump as heck, medium to small seed amount considering size of fruit.
My Triple Crown I got from Nourse Farms is fruiting a bunch this year--but they are way smaller fruit than I thought... do they get bigger with time or did I get some mislabeled canes? Not enough of these ripe yet to report on em.
This is the first year for my triple crowns. They are huge. Sincerely the largest blackberries I've ever seen. My neighbor was unsure the were even blackberries because of their size. I'd estimate 4x the size of the typical blackberry in the grocery store. The photo above your post looks right compared to my berries.
Can't comment on taste. Mine aren't ripe yet.
While I've had huge berries this year, I had much smaller berries last year and the year before. As I said above, I think it was the pruning which made a difference...Or at least I hope so, as I can reproduce the pruning, but reproducing the weather is tougher.
Here's a pic from last year. I don't remember for sure which berry is which (I should have kept better notes), but I think it is (from the left): Triple Crown, Ouachita, and Prime Jan. Assuming the order is right, 11 berries took 2X the space as 14 berries from last year. And if the order isn't right, the ratio is even higher, as the others are even smaller.
Could you elaborate on your prunning approach? Thanks
PersianMD2Orchard ,
Bob_z6 could be right about weather influences. We've had record amounts of rain and extreme heat. On the down side, a significant percentage of my berries suffer from what appears to be white drupelet disorder.
Although this is the first fruiting year for my blackberries, I have noticed that weather has been impactful to both production and the quality of the fruit. The most recent example is my Triple Crown blackberries. They started ripening about 3 weeks ago and as soon as the berries started turning black they became sweet. Fast forward a couple of weeks, now I have to let the TC berries ripen several days before they become sweet. Unfortunately by waiting several days after they turn black, the birds usually get to them first. That's a whole different production issue… ugh.
I don't have multiple years to compare but this year's weather and temperatures have been very unusual. The temperatures have been relatively cool with only a 5-day period of the normal 90F+ summer heat. There has been less sunshine than usual and the rain fall has been higher than average and generally consistent all year long. It's July 30th and my yard is emerald green, just like in the spring and has been that way all year - I don't ever recall that happening before.
I did originally cover my TC's with shade cloth fearing berry sunburn but I that never materialized. Some of the first batch of TC's had dry druplets but I think that was due to an abundance of anthracnose in the berry patch. Nearly everything has it this year due to the damp, cool weather. When the shade cloth was damp, it made contact with some of the berries and this apparently caused the dry druplets, at least that's my theory. Once I removed the shade cloth, the dry druplets stopped occurring on the berries and I have not seen any wide spread sunburn yet on the TC's, which are about a week away from being completely exhausted of fruit.
When I first planted Triple Crown in 2010, I wasn't very attentive and they tip-rooted like crazy. I cleared up the mess, transplanting the tip-roots to another part of the yard, which has become productive this year.
In 2011, I was careful to make sure they didn't get to tip-root any more, by winding the canes back and forth between the 2 top wires (about 5' high), tying them often with string. Some canes were 20-30' long and it was a very dense mess. That fall, there was a Halloween ice-storm (while the plants were in full leaf), which added too much weight and collapsed the trellis.
I left it down for the winter and was able to get it (mostly) back up the next spring with some rope and my father's help (one person pulls, the other ties the rope). There were a lot of flowers and I was expecting a huge harvest. I actually got very little. I think wildlife got plenty, as it was a nice cozy place to hide (I chased some squirrels and birds out). The berries which were left were pretty small compared to this year.
In 2012, I was watchful and every time the plants got to be ~5.5-6' tall, I would take off the tip (2-3"). Anytime a lateral would get more than a few feet long, I would tip it too. This would leave a sturdy trunk, covered with ~2' long branches, almost like a dwarf fruit tree. Then, in late August, I cleared out all the spent floricanes and made sure there were no droopy primocanes. The below picture was taken when I was just about done pruning, late in the afternoon on 8/26. You can see 3 big piles of prunings, 2 on the near side and one on the far. By the end, I could finally see right through the row. The process was actually easier than the previous method, in that I didn't tie anything down- if it didn't stand relatively straight (possibly with a bit of help by laterals hanging on the wire), I cut it out.
Thanks guys for all the pruning info and tips. I will definitely give it a try.
How does heat and water affect blackberry sweetness? We get enough rain for pretty much any fruit to not be watered almost at all here in northern VA IMO so I followed suit with blackberries thinking to not dilute the flavor but perhaps they got heat stressed and couldn't produce the sugar?
What is the ideal sun/water/heat situation for blackberries to sweeten up? It sounds like a balancing act--some say full sun gives you sweeter berries--but you can also bother these plants with too much heat it seems--unless perhaps you water em a tad more generously than other fruit types during heat even when they are fruiting?
I had very inconsistent flavor in all my blackberries this season and I was picking them all at different times(99% black with 1% red, then 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 days after turning all black--some dropping very off easily, some gentle tug, some yank off, experimented with stage)...-- couldn't find any trend at all actually on ripeness level and sweetness. Perhaps they dull up the flavor if left too long and the heat/water is a bigger factor?
I have so many different types of spots in my yard I feel like if I understood the brix biology more of blackberry I could move them out to a better spot for them. Currently I'd say they are in 6-7 hrs of sun 8am-3pm with about zero water added. I think my current plan is to prune them, water them a tad more, and transplant some to 4.5 hrs of sun. And experiment again with picking at different times...
Every year, within the last several, the weather seems extreme. In 2011, in greater Cincinnati, we set a new annual rainfall record with over 73 inches of rain. In 2012 we set new heat records and had a drought. In 2013, cool temperatures and persistent rain has kept yards green all summer. So it's hard to find "normal" weather lately. In my short time growing blackberries, the flavors seem to improve with more sunshine, especially consecutive sunny days the week before the fruit ripens. As a prerequisite though, you need to have adequate plant food and water available, otherwise you probably will not get good fruit production (equals less berries).
As for day length of direct sunshine, my plants get direct sunshine from about 11:00am through 6:00pm. I have had several plants in containers receiving less sunshine, and pretty much those berries tasted uniformly poor. Raspberries or wineberries might be able to provide sweet berries with only partial-sun but probably not blackberries.
Every year, within the last several, the weather seems extreme. In 2011, in greater Cincinnati, we set a new annual rainfall record with over 73 inches of rain. In 2012 we set new heat records and had a drought. In 2013, cool temperatures and persistent rain has kept yards green all summer. So it's hard to find "normal" weather lately. In my short time growing blackberries, the flavors seem to improve with more sunshine, especially consecutive sunny days the week before the fruit ripens. As a prerequisite though, you need to have adequate plant food and water available, otherwise you probably will not get good fruit production (equals less berries).
As for day length of direct sunshine, my plants get direct sunshine from about 11:00am through 6:00pm. I have had several plants in containers receiving less sunshine, and pretty much those berries tasted uniformly poor. Raspberries or wineberries might be able to provide sweet berries with only partial-sun but probably not blackberries.
Both of my plants still sprout the stunted leaves but they keep growing. I have canes that are 8-10ft in length now but with few leaves. I wonder if they will be able to bear fruit next year without enough leaf area, assuming they survive over wintering.The marions nearby are growing about a foot a week.
I'm planning to make a trellis this year in preparation for Triple Crown Blackberries in the spring.
I have 10' t steel posts in the ground already. My dad drilled holes through them instead of trying to use those whimpy hinges. So now I can run wire through the steel posts and possibly use a buckle to tighten when i need to.
Question and help?
Not sure if I should set up just 2 wire system like most grapevine trellis or set up a t-bar on top to run more laterals. I need pictures from people that have lots of experience with their blackberry trellis. I only want to do this once!
My existing trellis also has a 12 gauge wire holding the two outside posts taunt on a huge hook and drilled into the ground with an auger on an angle.
Can anyone provide pictures?
How hight should my trellis be for this variety?
Glenn Russell, an experienced and helpful grower, has contributed trellis information here in the past. I haven't seen him post in a while, so I think he's busy elsewhere. But may I suggest his website that includes a write up on his trellises.
When he was active on this board, he answered questions about his trellises. You might try searching for Glenn's gardenweb trellis posts using google. Go to google.com. In the search box type
site:gardenweb.com Glenn_russell trellis
(The gardenweb search feature doesn't work very well. It seems to limit to the most recent year's posts.)
I used electrical conduit poles. Drilled holes.,used a grape trellis wire tightener to keep wires slack free. I put one wire at 3 ft and one at 5 ft. Seems with Triple Crown I put most of the canes on the 5 foot wire. It's growing like crazy. The 3 foot wire was handy for slower growers to keep canes off the ground. To add more cultivars I ran some lines between a clothes line pole and my grape trellis post. The triple crown is there. It can grow way past 8 ft. I cut them down, the laterals went crazy, Hard to control as canes are semi-erect, which means they are stiff, and do not want to go where I want. i have snapped a couple trying to train. It's a beast! With trailing types it's easier to weave canes between wires, but with the semi-erects and erects you cannot do that. A T bar for two lines at the same height would at least give me options. But I'm leaving it and securing them any way I can.
This post was edited by Drew51 on Fri, Sep 6, 13 at 0:06
Concerning the Obsidian blackberry curling leaf issue: both of my Obsidian blackberry plants started leafing out as normal about two weeks ago from the new growth at the end of the canes. Temperatures have been cooling off a bit but there has also been less sunlight as the days have grown shorter. Those are the only 2 factors that seem to be at play.The plants have grown all summer although the leaves have been sparse and tend to fall off easily.
Mainly the plants stop growing. The fruits will continue to ripen. The slowing down also may be made worse by lack of water in that period, but as I mention above this last summer it was relatively wet in July/August and I still had slo-mo growth.
Thank you!
By the way, how are your blackberry plants doing? It was a brutal winter for us in Missouri with record lows (-22!!!) and crazy amounts of snow. So far, it looks like most of my plants have significant die-back, but also have quite a bit alive.
The coldest temperature at my house was -8F but I had five nights at -5F or lower. I had some winners and losers but I think I also benefited from solid snow cover for the coldest parts of the winter. I covered my trailing berries with row covers too.
My Siskiyou and Kotata blackberries didn't have any dieback and kept most of their leaves. Both are already sprouting leaves and the Siskiyou are kicking up new cane sprouts already. Interestingly, the Kotata escaped vole damage although they were in between fully consumed plants. I think that because they are so thorny, that the voles decided to bypass them.
My row of boysenberries were covered but could not lay flat, so they only had partial snow cover during the winter. They had some dieback but were impacted more by voles (mice) and cane borers. I lost about 80% of the canes in total. It does look like boysenberry (thorny) plants are reasonably hardy. I had a couple of boysenberry plants in pots that I moved inside in mid-winter (after the -8F temps) and they had about 30% winter kill but they are also leafed out and getting ready to bloom.
My marionberry plants that were planted in ground had about 50% dieback but they also had some cane borer damage. They are leafing out now and I should have a decent amount of berries from them this year.
Loganberry plants overwintered with about 30% dieback but they had decent loss from cane borers. They are popping leaves and canes now.
My Obsidian blackberries died a horrible death from vole damage. There wasn't much left of them. I decided to pull them since they seemed to have a leaf curl problem last year anyway.
My black diamond survived the winter but lost it canes to cane borers (I had to prune them off). I'm going to remove black diamond and replace it with Columbia Star.
I did leave a wild treasure uncovered all winter and it survived but anything above the snow line died back.
My semi-erect blackberries (triple crown and black satin) seem to have had little to no winter damage.
Kiowa had minor dieback but it was to canes that would have been pruned back anyway, so there was no practical loss there. Surprisingly, I had two Kiowa canes that tip rooted (tip layer) which I though erect blackberries didn't do.
PrimeArk 45 is sprouting leaves now but I'm not sure how much winter damage it incurred due to the fact that part of the canes had to be pruned anyway due to fruiting on the primocane part of the canes. I did let them grow too long and they didn't produce very many laterals which will impact summer fruiting.
Ouachita seems to overwintered with little winter damage after pruning but they are starting to leaf out now which makes me nervous because our frost free date isn't until early May.
It looks like all of my raspberries survived the winter fine. One interesting finding is Cascade Delight. It was uncovered and seems to have overwintered OK but is a 'Western' raspberry. It is starting to leaf out now. There might be some winter damage but I'll report back on that.
I think you should try out Siskiyou, it seems like a pretty hardy trailing blackberry.


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Dental practices Intentional Replantation, Apicoectomy, and Root Canal….part 3 of 7
Thanks to GSG reader Sheryl, whose husband is a dentist, for suggesting I research Intentional Replantation. It has been practiced for 1,000 years, and it is not difficult for dentists, although very few do it or even think to do it. It involves treating the tooth outside the mouth and re-implanting it, and the dental […]3 Comments • Continue Reading →
Root canals….at the root of much disease?
Root canals are another toxic practice. Over 20 million root canal surgeries are done each year in the U.S. alone. I unfortunately have had two of them, before I knew how dangerous they are, or that I had any other option. Dr. James Howenstine says, "Many chronic diseases, perhaps most, are a result of root […]31 Comments • Continue Reading →
Fermenting foods: it's freaking me out!
Dear GreenSmoothieGirl: I really like the idea of adding the Rejuvelac as my green smoothie base, but I'm honestly totally freaked out to leave something perishable on my countertop in an unsealed container for several days. What are the chances that "bad bacteria" get in there and make me sick? I really appreciate any feedback […]236 Comments • Continue Reading →
green smoothies, free apples, strep throat, antibiotics
Locals, if you're near Lindon / North Orem, there are boxes of free apples in the "Share the Bounty" hut near my house: just south of Center St. on 400 E. (just on the Orem side). They're not pretty (so they're probably unsprayed) so the owner clearly could not sell these apples, but they taste […]12 Comments • Continue Reading →
Extra ingredients for green smoothies [part 7 of 9]
Pomegranate juice Pomegranate juice is another very hot product because of a few studies linking it to slowing growth of prostate cancer and arthritis, and reducing breast and skin cancer. It's been linked to improvement of several cardiovascular measurements, including thinning the blood and improving blood flow, lowering LDS cholesterol, and increasing HDL ("good") […]11 Comments • Continue Reading →
The Essential GreenSmoothieGirl Library . . . part 7
These are books important for parents to own: Randall Neustaedter's The Vaccine Guide is the most science based, objective, and compelling look on the vaccine issue of all the books I read as I made the difficult decision not to immunize my children. For instance, although the DPT shot seemed a no-brainer to avoid […]13 Comments • Continue Reading →
Earn $825+ getting RAW ALMONDS for you and your friends
You can earn $825 or more by having your friends participate in this buy–read details below. California's almond trees have just been harvested, and it's a bumper crop! Almonds should be on anyone's top 10 list of most-nutritious foods. When you soak truly raw almonds, they sprout and are nutritionally worth 200% to 500% more: […]40 Comments • Continue Reading →
natural remedies for ear infections
I just met this cute blonde mom named Mary Jane, who was telling my friend about her little boy's chronic ear infection that multiple courses of antibiotics just can't eliminate. She was saying that her son's "cold" just keeps going—six weeks now of constant, thick mucous. I sometimes just can't believe that no pediatrician […]5 Comments • Continue Reading →


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These are my old practise shoes and must be about 25 years old.
...lenka, Sara Reeve, Natalie Vega, and 25 other people added this photo to their favorites.
So beautiful, those shoes look like they've worked hard. I espec love your composition and that lovely ribbons. You've done so well with pinks!!! x


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Same old story: New animated film 'Escape From Planet Earth' recycles tired storytelling
The Weinstein Company
The animated motion picture "Escape From Planet Earth" arrived in theaters Feb. 15. Even though movie critics are generally conceding the film can be fun fare for kids and adults alike (it's rated PG for action and some mild humor), many of those same critics are independently harping on the film's obvious similarities to three fairly recent animated feature films: "Megamind" (2010), "Planet 51" (2009) and especially "Monsters vs. Aliens" (2009).
Indeed, below are several snips from movie reviews that explicitly make a connection between "Escape From Planet Earth" and "Monsters vs. Aliens."
Digging a little deeper, any dearth of originality in "Escape From Planet Earth" can at least partially be attributed to the fact that control over the film's artistic vision has spawned contentious, still-ongoing litigation between plaintiff filmmakers Brian Inerfeld and Tony Leech, and defendant distributor The Weinstein Company.
Last week The Hollywood Reporter noted, "The film languished in development, and the plaintiffs claimed that the Weinsteins repeatedly unlocked the script, forcing rewrites at least 17 times."
See additional reviews and rate "Escape from Planet Earth" on ok.com.
Jamshid Ghazi Askar is a graduate of BYU's J. Reuben Clark Law School and member of the Utah State Bar. Contact him at firstname.lastname@example.com or 801-236-6051.
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I'm researching historical "small" beer for purposes of reenactment and coming up with a good-tasting, low-alcohol beer that can be enjoyed all day without all that messy passing out business. Has anyone tried this before? (Nothing came up in a search). Here's what I've got going so far (I'm doing 1 gallon batches in case I need to pour it out):
--Add 2 lbs. American 2-row barley, 2 oz. Cascade hops, and 4 oz. Chocolate Malt to 1 gal. of water and boil for 1 hour. Cool, strain, pour into fermenter, top up with water, pitch some yeast, let ferment for 1 week, prime and bottle for 2 weeks (This makes a batch of regular beer).
--Take the "spent" grain and hops from the previous step, add 1 gal water and boil again. Again, cool, strain, pour into another fermenter, top up with water, pitch some yeast, let ferment for 1 week, prime and bottle for 2. This becomes the batch of small beer.
The small beer I came up with is 2.5% ABV (matching estimates of historical small beer) and fermenting away nicely. Hopefully using all-grain (or at least all-barley, if I have to make bigger batches than I want to go whole-grain for), will keep the beer flavorful enough without the extra malt.
Anyway, let me know what you think- I'll continue to experiment if this batch comes out bad, but wanted to hear if anyone had any other advice for making low-alcohol beer.
I wouldn't boil your grains...
you should mash your grains in ~154* water for an hour, then boil, add your hops, boil for an hour, etc...
2 oz. of hops seems like a lot for a one gallon batch also.
Just curious - what do you mean by: "for purposes of reenactment"?
regardless - good on ya' for experimenting
That's all I got!
Table Beer..........
Small beers are often made with the second runnings from a larger beer (like an old ale or a barleywine). Do a search on parti-gyle. If you're doing all-grain, you could take your first runnings for something big, your second runnings for something small. I'm not sure where you're at in terms of your brewing, though; you never want to boil your grains. Are you an AG brewer? You've got to mash those grains or they aren't going to do you any good.
Try a Dry Stout, Mild, Ordinary Bitter, Blonde, or maybe some type of lager. Mash a little higher than you otherwise would (a couple of degrees), bump up the specialty malts a little, and add something for body like flaked barley, carapils, or maltodextrine. Also, use a low attenuating yeast (for British beers I tend to go with Fermentis Safale S-04).
That's it. Now Brew!
the only commercial 'small beer' I ever had was Anchor's and although it's a decent beer I'm not a big fan, too plain for me. But if you want to talk session beers I'm all about some low gravity bitters, specials, and bests with ogs around 1.034-45. Not technically small (party gyle)beers though.
Check out Milds and for heavens sake don't boil grains you wont end up with anything to ferment and it will taste nasty. If your an all-grain brewer you probably already knew this otherwise if your new to this check out some of the recipes on this forum and try using extract until you feel comfortable doing all-grain.


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According to aspects of the embodiments, there is provided methods of optimizing contact forces between transfer and photoreceptor belts in image forming devices. The method acquires initial and operational set point data for the photoreceptor and transfer belt at different stages of engagement. Yaw motion is applied to reduce any misalignment between the belts based on the acquired data. A processor is used to determine misalignment between the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt, and an actuator can be used to apply yaw motion. The yaw motion can return the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt to their initial set position, or return a steering subsystem actuator to its setting prior to engagement of the belts. Set point data can be from the respective transfer steering subsystem for the photoreceptor and the transfer belts.
1. A method of controlling contact forces between a transfer belt and a photoreceptor belt, the method comprising:
acquiring transfer belt initial set point and photoreceptor belt initial set point when not engaged;
acquiring transfer belt operational set point and photoreceptor belt operational set point when not engaged;
determining transfer belt and photoreceptor belt misalignment after engagement from the acquired initial set points and the acquired operational set points; and
applying yaw motion to reduce misalignment between the transfer belt and photoreceptor belt;
wherein initial set points are acquired when the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt are not engaged;
wherein operational set points are acquired when the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt are engaged.
2. The method of
wherein the initial set point and the operational set point for the photoreceptor belt are provided by a photoreceptor steering subsystem.
3. The method of
4. The method of
5. The method of
6. The method of
7. The method of
8. The method of
9. An apparatus comprising:
a back up roll having an outer surface;
a bias roll adjacent said outer surface of said back up roll, wherein said bias roll is positioned with respect to said back up roll to form a nip between said bias roll and said back up roll;
a photoreceptor belt, wherein a portion of said photoreceptor belt is in said nip between said bias roll and said back up roll;
a transfer belt, wherein a portion of said transfer belt is in said nip between said bias roll and said photoreceptor belt;
a processor with sensors to determine misalignment between the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt based on actuator adjustment changes between engaged and non engaged configurations; and
an actuator capable of applying yaw motion to reduce misalignment between the transfer belt and photoreceptor belt;
wherein the processor determines misalignment from data consisting of initial set point data and operational set point data for the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt, and
wherein initial set point data is acquired when the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt are not engaged and the operational set point data is acquired when the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt are engaged.
10. The apparatus of
11. The apparatus of
12. The apparatus of
13. The apparatus of
14. An image forming device comprising:
a plurality of rollers mounted to a frame for defining a path along which a transfer belt is driven in a process direction, the plurality of rollers comprising a drive roller having a longitudinal axis about which it is mounted to rotate and a drive surface formed generally concentrically about the longitudinal axis;
a photoreceptor belt configured to have a charge placed thereon for modification by an imager to be receptive to a charged toner, wherein a portion of said photoreceptor belt is in a nip formed between a bias roll and a back up roll;
a first processor to detect a first lateral position of the photoreceptor belt and to detect a second lateral position of the photoreceptor belt;
a second processor to detect a first lateral position of the transfer belt and to detect a second lateral position of the transfer belt; and
controller to determine misalignment between the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt from detected lateral position data,
wherein the misalignment is based on a change of lateral positions of the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt and the first lateral position is when the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt are not engaged, and where the second lateral position is when the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt are engaged.
15. The image forming device machine of
The disclosure is directed to an image forming devices and, more particularly, to a method and an apparatus for correcting transfer and photoreceptor belt misalignment in an image forming device.
Apparatuses that form images on a sheet, such as electro-photographic reproduction machine and printers are equipped with mechanisms to rotate a continuous belt at various locations inside the apparatus. The continuous belts used in conjunction with such mechanisms include a photoreceptor belt and transfer belt. Flexible electrostatographic belt imaging members are well known in the art. Typical electrostatographic flexible belt imaging members include, for example, photoreceptors for electrophotographic imaging systems; electroreceptors or flexible ionographic imaging members for electrographic imaging systems; and flexible intermediate transfer belts for transferring toner images in electrophotographic and electrographic imaging systems.
To insure proper operation of the flexible electrostatographic belt imaging members it is important to limit shifts along the axes of rotation and lateral position as it rotates. Shifts in lateral position results in imaging degradation and damage, with repeated operations, to the belt itself. A source of shifting in lateral position can arise when the photoreceptor belt and transfer belt interact. This belt interaction creates a meandering force or contact force that leads to misalignment or shifting of the belt in a lateral position. The misalignment causes the edge portions of the respective belts to be damaged by the meandering belts. Another source is differences in speed of the belts, too much velocity variation or misalignment can cause belt ripple, image distortion, or abrasive degradation.
According to aspects of the embodiments, there is provided methods of optimizing contact forces between transfer and photoreceptor belts in image forming devices. The method acquires initial and operational set point data for the photoreceptor and transfer belt at different stages of engagement. Yaw motion is applied to reduce any misalignment between the belts based on the acquired data. A processor is used to determine misalignment between the photoreceptor belt and the transfer belt, and an actuator can be used to apply yaw motion. The yaw motion can return the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt to their initial set position, or return a steering subsystem actuator to its setting prior to engagement of the belts. Set point data can be from the respective transfer steering subsystem for the photoreceptor and the transfer belts.
Aspects of the disclosed embodiments relate to methods for optimizing contact forces between transfer and photoreceptor belts, and corresponding apparatus to reduce misalignment between interacting belts and image forming device with controller to reduce misalignment between photoreceptor and transfer belts. The disclosed embodiments minimize misalignment that could cause belt ripple, image distortion or abrasive degradation. The disclosed embodiments provide a lateral adjustment (yaw motion) on the bias transfer module (BTB) module assembly so the speed of the interacting belts can be synchronized and misalignment reduced.
The disclosed embodiments include methods for optimizing contact forces between a transfer belt and a photoreceptor belt by applying yaw motion to the bias transfer module when misalignment is found to have occurred. The yaw motion acts to bring either the transfer belt or the photoreceptor belt to a position where misalignment is minimized.
The disclosed embodiments further include an apparatus having a back up roll and bias roll positioned to form a nip. A print media and portions of the transfer and the photoreceptor belts move through the formed nip. An aptly programmed processor \controller is provided to determine if misalignment exist between the transfer belt and the photoreceptor belt. If a misalignment is determined, an actuator is used to apply yaw motion to reduce the misalignment.
The disclosed embodiments further include an image forming device consisting of a plurality of rollers mounted to a frame, a photoreceptor belt, a transfer belt, and processors and controller for minimizing misalignment between the belts.
A printing process such as an electrophotographic process must charge the relevant photoreceptor surface. The initial charging may be performed by a charge source 16. The charged portions of the photoreceptor 12 may then be selectively discharged in a configuration corresponding to the desired image to be printed by a raster output scanner (ROS) 18. The ROS 18 may include a laser source (not shown) and a rotatable mirror (also not shown) acting together in a manner known in the art to discharge certain areas of the charged photoreceptor 12. It should be appreciated that other systems may be used for this purpose including, for example, an LED bar or a light lens system instead of the laser source. The laser source may be modulated in accordance with digital image data fed into it and the rotating mirror may cause the modulated beam from the laser source to move in a fast scan direction perpendicular to the process direction of the photoreceptor 12. The laser source may output a laser beam of sufficient power to charge or discharge the exposed surface on photoreceptor 12 in accordance with a specific machine design.
After selected areas of the photoreceptor 12 are discharged by the laser source, remaining charged areas may be developed by developer unit 20 causing a supply of dry toner to contact the surface of photoreceptor 12. The developed image may then be advanced by the motion of photoreceptor 12 to a transfer station including a transfer device 22, causing the toner adhering to the photoreceptor 12 to be electrically transferred to a print media or substrate, which is typically a sheet of paper, to form the image thereon. The sheet of paper with the toner image may then pass through a fuser 24, causing the toner to melt or fuse into the sheet of paper to create a permanent image.
As shown, a densitometer 26 may be used after the developing step to measure the optical density of the halftone density test patch created on the photoreceptor 12 in a manner known in the art. A tone reproduction curve (TRC) or tone reproduction table (TRT) can be used with the data from the densitometer to ascertain the quality of the print. As used herein, the densitometer is intended to apply to any device for determining the density of print material on a surface, such as a visible light densitometer, an infrared densitometer, an electrostatic voltmeter, or any other such device that makes a physical measurement from which the density of print material may be determined.
The sensors 210 can include one or more light source with one or more photodetector, strain gauge, or any other position-determining sensor that outputs position data in accordance with detected position-determining marks on a belt that can be detected by the position-determining sensor. A suitable light source could be one or more light emitting diode (LED). Regardless of the type of sensor used the signal from each individual sensor is a digital representation of the belt's current lateral position, with an accuracy defined by the sensor or the distance between two adjacent sensors when used in combination to determined position. Furthermore, position-determining marks with an encoder can generate a belt-conveying signal indicative of the belt movement in the conveying direction. Various sensors and methodologies can provide the controller with a real-time indication of the lateral position and the speed of each belt.
The motor 230 is inclusive of a driving mechanism that can comprise driving rollers that rotate and drive a belt, a driving motor that provides a driving force to a driving roller, and a driving motor controller that controls a driving motor to maintain the speed of the motor and to limit transient conditions.
The steering 240 is inclusive of a steering motor controller that can control the positioning of the belt based on data from sensors 220, belt controller 210, and storage device 250. Storage device 250 stores data including minimum weaving of a belt, initial belt position, initial set point data, position of the steering roller that corresponds to a position of a belt in real-time, and a snapshot of operational data that indicates the operation of the belt. This data is made available to all processing systems in image forming device 100.
The transfer belt 310 interacts with photoreceptor belt 320 and back up roll 330. As noted above in
The pressing of back up roll 330 against bias roll 350 causes a nip 380 to form between the photoreceptor belt 320 and the transfer belt 310. Engagement and disengagement of the respective nips is automated by at least one actuator, such as a cam and stepper motor mechanism, where the at least one actuator is controlled by controller 840. At the nip, the belts pressed against each other and upon contact, equal and opposite forces will act to disturb the belt steering regulation for each belt mechanism. The magnitude of each belt steering subsystem 200 response is expected to be different, but in opposite directions.
The presence of a greater than zero relative velocity component is inferred by the required belt steering control actions of the photoreceptor and transfer belt steering subsystems. Belt interaction and variations in the manufacturing of components have been known to give rise to a greater than zero relative velocity. Regardless of the cause, velocity differences between the photoreceptor belt and transfer belt could cause belt ripple, image distortion/degradation or abrasive action to occur. An appropriate measure of transfer belt abrasive action is given by the following equation:
Applying lateral motion to either belt is one way for correcting misalignment between the photoreceptor belt 320 and the transfer belt. Yaw motion as used herein includes lateral motion and controlling the respective belt steering mechanism. Yaw motion could be used to return the belts to their set points prior to engagement. In the alternative or in combination with returning the belts to their set points prior to engagement, the yaw motion could return each belt steering subsystem actuator to its setting prior to engagement. As shown in
Yaw steering mechanism 402 is any rod or actuator that can apply a lateral force to the transfer or photoreceptor belt so as to minimize misalignment. Yaw steering mechanism 402 can be a respective belt steering subsystem 200 or actuators in the respective belts.
In particular, graphical representation 500 shows an X-Y axis of photoreceptor belt steering actuator set point 510 and transfer belt steering actuator set point 520. Image forming device 100 is initially adjusted prior to contact between the transfer belt and photoreceptor belt. Points X1 and Y1 represent initial setpoint 530 for both subsystems. Upon contact, equal and opposite forces will act to disturb the belt steering regulation algorithm for the transfer and photoreceptor belts. The magnitudes of each subsystem responses are expected to be different, but in opposite directions. It is assumed that each belt steering algorithm has a sensor that provides position feedback at sufficient resolution. Points X2 and Y2 represent the operational set point 540 for both subsystems.
The difference between the set points represents the misalignment of the belts. The misalignment of the belts can be reduced by changing the set point of the belt steering subsystem. Points X3 and Y3 represent the corrected set point 550 for both subsystems. It should be noted, that the overall strategy of lowering misalignment between the belts can be accomplished by changing one or all the set points of the respective belt steering subsystem. Placing an actuator on the transfer belt module or the photoreceptor belt module would change the set point for that module. In
Misalignment between the belts can be viewed as a difference in belt velocity 580. Vector 560 represents the vector components for transfer belt velocity and photoreceptor belt velocity. Angle 570 is a measure of the misalignment between the belts. Angle 570 is the slip velocity between the belts.
In action 630, a misalignment is determined. As noted above with reference to
Photoreceptor belt input signal 710 is processed by first processor 730 to determine the deviation of the photoreceptor belt from an initial position. Transfer belt input signal 720 is processed by second processor 740 to determine the deviation of the transfer belt from an initial position. The deviation of the respective belts, as determined by the first processor 730 and second processor 740, is then processed by controller 750 so as to determine misalignment of the belts. The first processor 730, second processor 740, and controller 750 could be encased in a yaw control module 760. Controller 750 generates a lateral force signal 770 that when acted upon causes the actuator 780 to apply yaw motion to an attached belt module such as transfer belt 310 shown in
In the illustrated embodiment, the controller 840 may be implemented with a general-purpose processor. However, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the controller 840 may be implemented using a single special purpose integrated circuit (e.g., ASIC, FPGA) having a main or central processor section for overall, system-level control, and separate sections dedicated to performing various different specific computations, functions and other processes under control of the central processor section. The controller 840 may be a plurality of separate dedicated or programmable integrated or other electronic circuits or devices (e.g., hardwired electronic or logic circuits such as discrete element circuits, or programmable logic devices such as PLDs, PLAs, PALs or the like). The controller 840 may be suitably programmed for use with a general purpose computer, e.g., a microprocessor, microcontroller or other processor device (CPU or MPU), either alone or in conjunction with one or more peripheral (e.g., integrated circuit) data and signal processing devices. In general, any device or assembly of devices on which a finite state machine capable of implementing the procedures described herein can be used as the controller 840. A distributed processing architecture can be used for maximum data/signal processing capability and speed.
Embodiments as disclosed herein may include computer-readable medium for carrying or having computer-executable instructions or data structures stored thereon. Such computer-readable medium can be any available medium that can be accessed by a general purpose or special purpose computer. By way of example, and not limitation, such computer-readable medium can comprise RAM, ROM, EEPROM, CD-ROM or other optical disk storage, magnetic disk storage or other magnetic storage devices, or any other medium which can be used to carry or store desired program code means in the form of computer-executable instructions or data structures. When information is transferred or provided over a network or another communications connection (either hardwired, wireless, or combination thereof) to a computer, the computer properly views the connection as a computer-readable medium. Thus, any such connection is properly termed a computer-readable medium. Combinations of the above should also be included within the scope of the computer-readable medium.
Computer-executable instructions include, for example, instructions and data which cause a general purpose computer, special purpose computer, or special purpose processing device to perform a certain function or group of functions. Computer-executable instructions also include program modules that are executed by computers in stand-alone or network environments. Generally, program modules include routines, programs, objects, components, and data structures, and the like that perform particular tasks or implement particular abstract data types. Computer-executable instructions, associated data structures, and program modules represent examples of the program code means for executing steps of the methods disclosed herein. The particular sequence of such executable instructions or associated data structures represents examples of corresponding acts for implementing the functions described therein. The instructions for carrying out the functionality of the disclosed embodiments may be stored on such a computer-readable medium.
The instructions from a computer-readable medium may be used by an electronic device, such as controllers 210, 750, 800, to cause the functionality of the embodiments to occur. These instructions may be loaded into a memory to be executed by a processor as needed.
It will be appreciated that various of the above-disclosed and other features and functions, or alternatives thereof, may be desirably combined into many other different systems or applications. Also that various presently unforeseen or unanticipated alternatives, modifications, variations or improvements therein may be subsequently made by those skilled in the art which are also intended to be encompassed by the following claims.
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text: Oracle database Jobs 284 were found based on your criteria Post a job. It's free! Newest Jobs First Oldest Jobs First Most Employer Hours Least Employer Hours Most Dollars Paid Least Dollars Paid Highest Feedback Score Lowest Feedback Score 1 2 3 4 5 … › » Crystal Reports + Oracle Database Administrator Hourly – More than 6 months – 10-30 hrs/week – Posted March 16 2015 We are looking for someone good in Crystal Reports using Oracle as the back-end database. You need to be extremely familiar with the reverse engineering Oracle-Lite database for Retail Pro to troubleshoot an issue with Oracle that rarely comes up. crystal-reports oracle-database AWS oracle server connectivity Fixed-Price – Est. Budget: $30.00 Posted Feb. 25 2015 Very quick question. I attend Northwestern and have created an AWS oracle 11g database instance. I have sql developer on my laptop but the connectivity fails. How do I make the connection? 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Arms Corp. AR 47.22 LR
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CM/ECF or Pacer Login
Voice Case Information System (VCIS)
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Phew!.. Marvelous, Outstanding, Mind-blowing.. what else, I'd say.. Indeed a good movie experience. I felt like "OMFG" after enjoying the movie. To be honest, it was my first & best 3D experience ever I'd say. Well, I've seen movies in good old days but not that I felt into those.. But this time, "The Avengers 2012" […]
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We STILL seem to have a RANDOM ARCHIVE GLITCH where clicking on the next comic will take you to the next comic page, but oddly display a comic from a totally different date. Hitting Refresh sometimes helps. We're working on it!
I tried very hard to get scripts in before we left for (Re)Generation Who and really hoped to put something together after the con but I am wiped out after a long trafficy drive and very little sleep, and fought to get something together before 1am and failed. So we have emergency filler for today.
I will say (Re)Generation Who was a blast even though we weren't there for the whole time. Next year I'm doing EVERYTHING it was SO MUCH Doctor Who fun!
Comic for Monday 06/10/13
Ref: Agent Whisper First Appearance (panel 3).
Comic for Tuesday 06/11/13
Ref: Cargo Ship Barranca.