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How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
Test Name
Test Title, Test Company
How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
A strong doctor-patient relationship can make all the difference in a patient's treatment and quality of care. In my experience, abiding by a few key principles goes a long way in building a relationship that enables a more successful diagnostic and therapeutic regimen.
The first, and arguably most important principle for me, is to see each patient as a person rather than a patient with cancer. Making them feel comfortable that I'm concerned about their disease process and ready to get through it as a team helps build trust from the beginning.
To do so, I work to establish good communication practices. When I'm getting to know a patient for the first time, I ask questions that can't be answered with a simple yes or no. Asking someone about where they live or how they became interested in their career helps me get a holistic view of their life and the details that come out of these conversations allow for personalized and specific care.
Caregivers are also incredibly important to the equation. Whether their family, friends or neighbors are supporting the patient, it's critical to create a dialogue with these people so they can answer questions and provide context in certain situations.
To build and maintain these relationships, I've found eye contact and an occasional physical touch to their hands reassures the patient that I'm listening and engaged in their treatment plan.
Every patient is unique and every cancer is different. Remembering that about each person that walks through my door translate to a better experience for both the patient and the doctor.
Edith Mitchell, M.D.
Clinical Professor of Medicine and Medical Oncology, Thomas Jefferson University
Edith Mitchell, M.D.
Clinical Professor of Medicine and Medical Oncology, Thomas Jefferson University
Edith Peterson Mitchell, MD, is Clinical Professor of Medicine and Medical Oncology and Program Leader in Gastrointestinal Oncology at Thomas Jefferson University. In addition, she holds the positions of Associate Director of Diversity Programs for the Kimmel Cancer Center at Jefferson and Director of the Kimmel Cancer Center to Eliminate Cancer Disparities. Dr. Mitchell received a B.S. in biochemistry "with distinction" from Tennessee State University and her medical degree from the Medical College of Virginia in Richmond. In 1973, while attending medical school, Dr. Mitchell entered the Air Force and received a commission through the Health Professions Scholarship Program. She entered active duty after completion of her internship and residency in Internal Medicine at Meharry Medical College and a fellowship in Medical Oncology at Georgetown University.
Dr. Mitchell is a Fellow of the American College of Physicians and a member of the American Medical Association, the National Medical Association, Aerospace Medical Association, Association of Military Surgeons, and the Medical Society of Eastern Pennsylvania. She also belongs to the Eastern Cooperative Oncology Group, Radiation Therapy Oncology Group, National Surgical Adjuvant Breast and Bowel Project, and the Philadelphia Society of Medicine.
Dr. Mitchell's research in pancreatic cancer and other GI malignancies involves new drug evaluation and chemotherapy, development of new therapeutic regimens, chemoradiation strategies for combined modality therapy, patient selection criteria, and supportive care for patients with gastrointestinal cancer. Dr. Mitchell travels nationally and internationally teaching and lecturing on the treatment of gastrointestinal malignancies.
Dr. Mitchell has authored and co-authored more than 100 articles, book chapters, and abstracts on cancer treatment, prevention, and cancer control. As a distinguished researcher, she has received 21 Cancer Research and Principal Investigator Awards, and serves on the National Cancer Institute Review Panel and the Cancer Investigations Review Committee.
In addition to her medical achievements, Dr. Mitchell is a retired Brigadier General having served as the Air National Guard Assistant to the Command Surgeon for US Transportation command and headquarters Air Mobility Command based at the Scott Air Force Base in Illinois. In this capacity she served as the senior medical Air National Guard advisor to the command surgeon and was the medical liaison between the active Air Force and the Air National Guard. Her responsibilities in this role included ensuring maximum wartime readiness and combat support capability of the worldwide patient movement and aero medical evacuation system, the Global Patient Movement Requirements Center and AMC's 52 Air National Guard medical squadrons.
General Mitchell has been awarded over fifteen military service medals and ribbons including the Legion of Merit, Meritorious Service Medal, Air Force Achievement and Commendation Medals, National Defense Service Medal, and Humanitarian Service Medal. Dr. Mitchell was selected for inclusion in America's Top Oncologists.
How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
The doctor /patient relationship is built on mutual respect, utmost trust, and dedication of the parties involved. This relationship allows both parties to engage in a frank and open professional interaction that best serves the patient health care needs. Such a relationship must not be affected by an outside pressure, on either side, to force a different choice of care nor be affected by any monetary gain or loss.
The proliferation of managed care, Medicare advantage plans, hospital ownership of practicing physicians, and other care delivery models has weakened this special relationship. From withholding or delaying care to increase year-end bonus, to ordering more tests or unnecessary services to boost the RVUs score, the patients' health shifted to the accounting department. Employed physicians are losing their own ties with the patients to the institution that owns the practice.
I believe the traditional doctor/patient relationship is better maintained in the private practice setting given that the doctor provides the unbiased advice but the ultimate choice belongs to the patient.
Edmond Cabbabe, M.D.
Chairman, Center for Patient Safety
Edmond Cabbabe, M.D.
Chairman, Center for Patient Safety
Dr. Edmond B. Cabbabe has been the Clinical Professor of Surgery in the Division of Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery at the St. Louis University School of Medicine since 2003. He is currently the Chairman of the Heart of America Caucus (MO, KS, OK, AR) at the American Medical Association House of Delegates and the Chair for The Center for Patient Safety (PSO) Board of Directors in Columbia, Missouri.
The recipient of numerous awards and accolades, Dr. Cabbabe is also involved in many charitable services. In St. Louis, he launched a "Stop violence before it starts" campaign, and has treated rehabilitated gang members by removing their gang-affiliated tattoos for free.
Dr. Cabbabe is from Aleppo, Syria, and received his medical degree from the Damascus University School of Medicine. He is married, and a father of three.
How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
A doctor-patient relationship represents a collaboration, a shared commitment by both doctor and patient to work towards a common goal of therapeutic success. The importance of this mutual determination cannot be understated as treatment efficacy relies on both parties as neither can be successful in isolation.
As a headache specialist, I find this message driven home to me on a daily basis. When I work out a treatment plan with a patient, it is a conversation, not a lecture. We determine together what is realistic for the patient – goals of care, ability to take medication, tolerance for side effects, capacity to make meaningful lifestyle changes – and craft a strategy together taking that patient's needs and desires into account. When the patient leaves the office, the conversation is not concluded but continues as the patient reflects upon the changes necessary to achieve the therapeutic objectives. I find that patients take this responsibility incredibly seriously and work diligently to make those changes a reality.
What follows is pure magic. The patient takes the medications prescribed and notes the reaction – both positives in terms of treatment efficacy and negatives in terms of side effects. She/he keeps track of those reactions and is able to weigh the relative benefits of the treatment. Sometimes we've found the right fit and the patient reports the treatment triumph. Other times, the medication misses the mark. When that happens, the patient contacts me, equipped with the skills to work together to alter the treatment plan and find something better.
The same thing happens with respect to lifestyle changes. For patients with headache syndromes, these can often be tremendously challenging. But the patient is prepared to face the challenge because of our team approach, carefully considering what she/he can commit to before even leaving my office on the first visit. This empowers the patient to take control over the disease, to fight back knowing that they have a cheerleader routing for them along a path to success. Patients tell me that they hear my voice when they are on the treadmill at the gym, encouraging them to give it just another 15 minutes. We strategize over tools that can help them, like phone apps to track their hydration or wearable technology that assess their sleep quality and consistency. They return with abundant enthusiasm, excited to tell me of their successes.
The best quality of care is only achieved when both doctor and patient are partners in care. By working as a team, my patients and I build a path to recovery.
Joshua Cohen, M.D.
Neurologist, Mt. Sinai Roosevelt Hospital
Joshua Cohen, M.D.
Neurologist, Mt. Sinai Roosevelt Hospital
Joshua M. Cohen, MD, MPH is Director of Education at Mount Sinai Continuum Hospitals, Director of the Headache Fellowship Program at the Headache Institute and Adolescent Headache Center, an attending neurologist at Mount Sinai Roosevelt Hospital, and an assistant professor of neurology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai. He is Board certified in Neurology and Headache Medicine. He is a leader in organized medicine on the national, state, and local level, currently serving as President of the New York County Medical Society and on the governing Council of the Medical Society of the State of New York (MSSNY).
He has also worked extensively with non-profits dedicated to improving public health. Since 2013, he has served on the Board of Directors of the American Medical Association Foundation . He was a founding Board member of the Nan Lightstone Foundation whose mission is to support research and public education on infectious diseases and is former Co-chair of The Trevor Project NextGen, supporting that organization's work to provide suicide prevention and crisis intervention services to LGBTQ youth.
Dr. Cohen completed his undergraduate training at Harvard University, medical school at the New York University School of Medicine, and his neurology residency at Columbia University's Neurological Institute. He also trained at the Columbia Mailman School of Public Health where he received his Masters of Public Health. He completed his headache fellowship at The Headache Institute and a mini-fellowship in pediatric headache at Cincinnati Children's Hospital. He is the recipient of multiple awards and accolades, including the American Headache Society (AHS)/Merck US Human Health Scholarship Award, the Arnold P. Gold Foundation Humanism and Excellence in Teaching Award, and the Harvard University Derek Bok Center Teaching Award.
How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
My best clinical shifts are the ones where I know that I am on the same page as my patient and I make clinical decisions incorporating principals of shared decision-making. Emergency medicine presents a unique challenge to the doctor/patient relationship. The first challenge is that patients almost never "want" to be in the emergency department (ED). They typically come reluctantly because they are in need of help for their acute medical problem. The second challenge is the ED is a chaotic environment. Most patients are overwhelmed by the sheer number of people, the beeping of loud monitors and the wait times. Finally, emergency physicians have the unique task of establishing a critical relationship with a patient who is essentially a stranger.
Within the first 30 seconds of walking into a room, I need to establish a relationship that will last beyond the confines of the four walls of the ED. Most patients go home after their ED visit and must trust my judgment and recommendations such that they take the medications I prescribe, follow the instructions I give, or make appointments with the specialists that I refer them to. All of this is in the context that our paths will unlikely cross again, and yet a good doctor/patient relationship sets these plans in place and the patient trusts me, their doctor, enough to see them through.
Shared decision-making to me is not about patients dictating care. Many providers get frustrated when patients expect that certain tests will be done or medications prescribed. When I have been in that situation, I try to get a sense of the patient's underlying concern. It usually is not about getting a specific test or an antibiotic, although that may be what the patient asks. Usually, that is just scratching the surface and their real concern may be about an underlying disease or the way a symptom impacts their life. Shared decision-making is about understanding the patient's unique set of circumstances and providing the appropriate diagnostics and treatments to meet their needs.
Patients rely on physicians to provide the highest quality care but physicians also rely on patients to follow through on their care plan once they leave the ED. Establishing a good relationship and engaging in shared decision-making is fundamental to ensuring the best possible results for the patient.
Michael Ybarra, M.D.
Senior Director of Alliance Development, PhRMA
Michael Ybarra, M.D.
Senior Director of Alliance Development, PhRMA
Michael Ybarra, M.D. is a board-certified emergency physician and Senior Director of Alliance Development at PhRMA. In his capacity at PhRMA, Dr. Ybarra leads alliance outreach to provider, multicultural, and LGBT organizations. His issue areas include communications with health care professionals and delivery reform. In addition to his work at PhRMA, Dr. Ybarra works clinically in the Emergency Department at MedStar Georgetown University Hospital.
How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
Analysts doing quality assurance exercises generally ask questions such as "Were the right tests ordered? Were the right drugs or other treatments prescribed?" And, of course, "Did the patient get better?" But a different question usually goes unasked, because it is so hard to answer from medical records: "What is the quality of the doctor-patient relationship?" In many cases, the doctor-patient relationship may be the most important element in identifying and treating the patient's problem. Is the patient depressed? Are there stressors in the patient's life that are causing symptoms? A heart-to-heart conversation with the doctor may actually be the best treatment.
Prevention should be an important element of most doctor-patient interactions, and here the doctor-patient relationship becomes particularly important. Physicians should be advising their patients on diet, exercise, stress, sexual behavior, alcohol and tobacco use -- and some physicians are styling themselves as practitioners of "lifestyle medicine" and focusing on such counseling. But absent a strong doctor-patient relationship, their words of wisdom will fall on deaf ears. The key is trust – trust enough to have that conversation, or to discuss and agree on the best course of treatment (instead of the patient appearing to accept "doctor's orders" and then ignoring them). Understanding the patient's culture in an increasingly diverse America is another key. And approaches to developing a strong relationship with the patient that includes trust and cultural competence are all too infrequently taught in medical school.
For physicians in public health, or who practice "population medicine," there is the need to consider the community as one's patient. Public health physicians are responsible for the health of a community and there must be enough trust developed on the part of that community so that it will accept the physician's recommendations on, for instance, immunization, environmental health, or safety. It used to be called "bedside manner." Now it's called "doctor-patient relationship." Whether the relationship is with an individual or a community, this element of the art of medicine is often the most important component of medical practice.
Daniel Blumenthal, M.D.
President, ACPM
Daniel Blumenthal, M.D.
President, ACPM
Daniel S. Blumenthal, MD, MPH, FACPM, serves as ACPM's 45th President. Dr. Blumenthal is Professor Emeritus at the Morehouse School of Medicine in Atlanta GA, and former Professor of Community Health and Preventive Medicine and Associate Dean for Community Health at Morehouse. He also was the Founding Chair of Morehouse's Department of Community Health & Preventive Medicine from 1984-2009.
Dr. Blumenthal has been a Fellow of the College since 1987, serving ACPM in many capacities over that time. Currently, he represents ACPM and Association for Prevention Teaching and Research (APTR) on the AJPM Board of Governors, was elected and served as ACPM's General Preventive Medicine Regent from 2006 to 2010, and served on ACPM's Graduate Medical Education Committee from 2000 to 2005. Among his many recognitions and awards in the field, he has received the Leonard Tow Humanism in Medicine Award from Morehouse School of Medicine in 2005, the Distinguished Alumni Achievement Award from Emory University Rollins School of Public Health in 2009, and the Duncan Clark Award from APTR in 2010.
How does a strong doctor/patient relationship translate into better quality of care for the patient?
When we look at the relationship between doctor and the patient, there is one theme that is constant: putting the patient first. The responsibility stands squarely on the shoulders of the physician from the onset to help make the patient feel comfortable and prepared to engage in an open and honest dialogue to help formulate a treatment plan.
In many ways, the special relationship is a moral one with the patient putting their faith in the hands of another individual in the hope of a positive outcome.
When meeting with a patient, it's important for physicians to remember they're speaking with a person afflicted with a disease, rather than putting the emphasis on the disease itself. Oftentimes, underlying issues not directly related to the patient's illness can make all the difference in how a patient feels about their treatment. This means it's critical to have direct communication with the patient, accessibility with the family, and sympathy for what the patient is going through at a difficult time in their life.
A strong relationship with a patient, and often his or her family, builds a foundation for a "health partnership," necessary for successful treatment. This transcends into ensuring information is flowing between a patient and their family to the physician. With a patients history clearly presented to the treatment provider, the quality of care to the patient will receive increases.
Finally, listening to the patient is critically important to the preservation of a good doctor and patient relationship. Often, patients who feel uncomfortable sharing pertinent and sometimes sensitive details about their medical history do so at their own peril.
On National Doctors Day I join with physicians all across the globe who share in a passion for the enhancement of our patients quality of life. Together, with doctors and patients sharing knowledge and vital health information, our health care system and the care we are able to provide is enhanced.
Bill Chin, M.D.
EVP, Scientific & Regulatory Affairs, PhRMA
Bill Chin, M.D.
EVP, Scientific & Regulatory Affairs, PhRMA
Dr. Bill Chin leads PhRMA's Scientific & Regulatory Affairs department. A physican, an endocrinologist and an academic at heart, Dr. Chin envisions establishing PhRMA as the premiere convener in advancing drug discovery and development, regulatory sciences and collaborative partnerships.

subset: commoncrawl


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"This product is so beautiful. I am more than happy with the end result. What's even better is that when I finished personalizing it, I was asked if there were any extra comments for the designer. I did have some and wrote them out then a few days later I received a proof and, unbelievably, It was exactly what I asked for. I approved it and when received I was so happy! It made my day to see that a website and the designer of the products was reliable. I recommend this site to ALL BRIDES planning a wedding now. Thank you!!"
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Fall is Coming! Best Indoor Light SpecificationS For Citrus?
Hello all!
Well Fall is quickly approaching ( which is well welcomed after the extreme summer we have had here this year).
But for me, this means that it will soon be indoor time for all my citrus trees.
I never use to have a light problem with my citrus until a few years ago when I moved to my new house. While the house is beautiful, it does not have that "sunny" place I used to have. My "Florida" room is ALL windows, and one would think that would be full of light, but it does not seem to get much light until after 2pm each day.
Last year, I supplemented my citrus with some regular indoor plant lights. While it did seem to help, it was still not enough, for these lights needed to be right on top of the plants, and I still had much leaf drop.
I have about 8+ citrus so I need light(s) that can span more than one or 2 trees, or lets say, be suspended from above, and not just right above each single plant while not needing 8 separate lights to do so.
I know that there are certain lights that have better spectrum/color number/ratios (or whatever) that pertain more towards the growing requirements of citrus, than lets say for example, of seed starting/sprouting lights ( like what my lights are for). I am more or less looking for less leaf/blossom/fruit drop during the winter months.
Can any of you let me know what lights I need for my citrus to do well for the winter? Where can I purchase them? I cannot seem to find such lights. And that also will also not be an eye-soar since they will technically be part of a living space that we spend a lot of time in?
I would assume I would put them on at night, using them as a night light to save electricity.
Thanks so much! Christy
bonechickchris your trees would be best served by real grow lights. Such lights are not cheep but they put out a lot more light per watt than fluorescent or incandescent lighting.
You did not say what size your trees are or how large an area you need to light up or how aggressive you want to be with your lighting. If this is just supplemental lighting its really up to you. Do you want them just to stay kinda healthy or do you want them to thrive?
In general a bare naked 400watt HPS hung in the center of four trees would be minimal lighting. A naked 600watt HPS hung in the center of four trees would be optimal.
A 45watt fluorescent grow light puts out 2,800 lumen's.
A 400watt bulb puts our roughly 55,000 lumen's.
A 600watt bulb puts out roughly 95,000 lumen's.
HidHut has about the best prices on digital ballasts you will find.
You may be able to find a better price on eBay but make sure the seller has a good reputation and warranty if you take that rout.
Here is a link that might be useful: HidHut
I couldnt stand to have the orange glow of a high pressure sodium lamp in my living space. I dont have a ton of experience with supplemental lighting for indoor plants/trees, most of mine is with aquarium plants, but I would prefer to use a metal halide or a full spectrum fluorescent if it was in my house and I had to look at it.
Actually, if you go to this older post of mine regarding soil, you can see pictures of most of my trees. I have one rather large lemon tree that is with pot, 5+ feet high. However, as you can see, all of my other citrus are rather small, although I have one other rather full, bushy variegated pink lemon tree not pictured, all else I have should be in these pictures. Usually these smaller citrus I put up on a table in order to reach the lights and height of my large lemon tree.
So, I would be grouping them all together somehow as uniform as possible using a table.
Like I said, I would be having them in a living room type situation, so I would not be able to have some super bright lights here. They would be getting regular day light, so the light would be supplimental. It is just the day light is not enough for them to hold all of their leaves and fruit.
They live in the house from about late October to Late March/Early April.
Since they are partial house plants, I do not need them to be "super thriving" since I need to lug them in and out every year. But I do need them to be able to be healthy enough to retain leaves and have the ability to develop blossoms and fruit, which is what I have the problem with now. I have a lot of fruit drop indoors.
If the lights I necessitate would be too bright for a living room situation,I could have my citrus live in the basement (heated) for the winter. There, they could use any type of lighting. Currently, there is not natural light down there, so the only light they would get would only be from an artificial light source. As long as these lights would not cause a fire hazzard of some sort, this can be a possability.
Ok, I hope I included all of the missing info you needed? THanks again for helping me out so far! Please let me know if you think the basement would be better since I could go brighter down there.
Do these lights make a big difference electricity wise? Just curious!
Here is a link that might be useful: My Citrus Pictures In this Thread
Oh yes....Expect a nice Electris Bill..
But I guess that is the rpice many of us pay to keep our plants actively growing all winter...When you smell your blossom while the outside is frigid, you won't even give the electric bill a thought, until it comes in of course..:-)
I too use to use metal Halide which my plants thrived on! The lighting is more natural, like being out in the sun as compared to many others and I got tons of bloosoms and new growth...
the link below might give you some ideas of what might work.
I would use a 4' or 8' T5 or T8 fluorescent and either make a stand or chain hang from the ceiling. you can probably find a decent fixture at your local Homedepot or Lowes. This might not be the absolute best for the trees, but it would economical and not as overwhelming as a big HID fixture in your living room.
cost to run something electrical is watts/1000=kilowatts
kilowatts X run time X whatever you power company charges.
for example in my situation to run a 1500 watt heater 10hrs for my greenhouse is this
if I had a 150 watt HPS on for 10 hrs it would cost me about $0.12
you can call you power company and ask what the charge.
Here is a link that might be useful: lights
I know it does not seem like it because we all like the cool white of MH. However HPS is a warmer light with better penetration than MH. However both work and in a living space I think I would go with an MH too.
HID = High Intensity Discharge. It is light years ahead of fluorescents for deep penetration into a plants canopy. These trees are fairly small though so a 4' T5 fluorescent may do the trick. An HPS or even an MH for that matter would be much better but I would not want one in a living space. If you are looking at HID's they are really hard on your eyes. Not the kind of thing you would want in the same room you eat meals or watch TV in. Looking at a HID whether it be HPS or MH is little different than looking at the sun. Not a good thing to do day after day.
It may not be as good as an MH or HPS HID but a 6 or 8 tube 4' long T5 fluorescent may be better for you in a living space. However if the cost of moving them to the basement and buying a single 600w HPS is not cost prohibitive. It will do more than keep your trees somewhat healthy. It will keep your trees growing all winter. Its like having a small sun over your trees. Its amazing; just don't look into the light.lol
The heating costs may not be as much as you think either. A 600 watt HPS in a hood like those sold at HIDHUT and other retailers puts out a lot of heat.
Christy.. Although you chose a house you love, you probably should have waited to find a home you cared for, AND contained windows, facing all directions.
Still, winter is winter. No matter how many windows a house has, if winters are gray and cloudy, our plants get what little sun is available.
Lights. Fixtures and bulbs depend on what you want to spend. Some are less than 100.00 to thousands.
Most hardware stores sell plant lights. Home Depot, charges 19.99 for a 6' Fluerscent bulb.
Their fixtures, 'nothing ornate,' starts from 20-30.00. You can purchase fixtures that hold one or two bulbs.
I use Shop Light fixtures that takes two bulbs..You can either use Gro Light or one, white/cool and one, white/warm. 'Fluerescent.'
My front plant room has a 6' fixture w/2 Gro lights. The back plant room's fixture holds one white cool, one, white warm, fluerscent bulbs. To be honest, I don't notice any difference as far as plant growth and even flowering. .
Another fixture I use is a silver, metal cylinder, 'forgot its name,' that uses bulbs. 'Gro lights or standard bulbs.' These fixtures (cost about 7.99) have a very long cord..plug fits in a standard outlet. The cylinder reflects light. You squeeze the scissor-like bottom. The piece is then held by attaching it on a door, thick board, or even a heavy plant pot.
Here are some examples of my lights:
Back plant room.
Front Plant Room:
Home-Made shelf for smaller plants:
Hope the pics take. Flickr changed their format. As you can see, I have a shelf under the front plant room light, but without the shelf, trees would fit perfect. Chains are adjustable....Toni
WOW! THANKS so much for all the info! Since I know nothing about this, I am just going to try and recap this in writing for my own personal understanding, please correct me where need be. If you could just comment next to these examples a little bit to help me understand, that would be great!
So my choices could be
Digital Balasts (hidhut)
T5 or T8 Flourescents ( would be cheaper to buy my own fixture than than the one from the website?)
HID for Super Growth?
4ft T5 for living space, but HPS or MH would be better, but for basement only because of brightness
Metal Halide Bulbs do the trick, but Mike, can you tell me how you use them? What kind of fixture do you use? Where do you buy them?
Or, just buy or use the same fixtures I have been using from Home Depot, but use one cool bulb and one warm bulb. Thanks for all of the pics! Lots of plants! Does all of your fruit stay on during the winter with these lights?
Like I said, I do not need them to go crazy with growth, but I would really like them to continue fruiting and blossoming. I am always loosing leaves and fruit up and until they get outside in the spring, and then they go crazy again.
Thanks again for all of the info and posts and links to lighting places! It is an extreme lot of help! I am just still trying to understand all of the different numbers and types. The only light I ever knew about before was the simple Gro-Light so it is taking me time understand it all!
Thanks so much! Christy
I told you Toni knows her stuff...Beautiful plants!!
Toni, WoW!!! is right...:-)
As for me,
I know a lot more because of people like her and all you nice folks here..
I also used Halide and Compact Flourescent bulbs and I will take pictures of them for you..Fairly inexpesive for me when I bought them at "Worms Way", and they worked very very well...I tell you, when they went on, you could almost get a sunburn from them it was so bright in that room..lol
My neighbors would all ask me if I was growing pot up on the top of my roof..My lights would reflect to my neighbors home around the block! You could see my back yard lit up at night..
The biggest issue I've always had with winter lighting is sheer coverage. Any portion of the plant that receives insufficient light will eventually be shed. From the plant's point of view, any branch that isn't photosynthesizing is a drain on its energy, so it will shed the branch, and you'll get leaf drop and twig dieback.
So whatever plan you make, ensure that as much of the plant receives light as possible. That's one advantage to those high-wattage HPS lights - one light above the plant means that just about every portion of the plant receives a good dose. If you choose a different option, there are things you can do to minimize twig dieback. For instance, if your plant is near a window and getting good sun for part of the day, you can rotate the plant around 1/3rd once a week, to make sure that all parts get sunlight before the tree decides that some branches are dead weight. Or you can use small "spot" lights to illuminate parts that are otherwise in the dark.
bonechickchris it was a lot of information but I think you understand things pretty well. I think the T5's would do for one or two years. After that the canopy will be getting to large and too dense and you will need to upgrade to a HID.
You see light intensity diminishes over distance. Because of this the further a plant is away from the light the less benefit it receives.
For the lay person here is the basic formula.
Double the distance and cut in half the intensity.
So if yo have two plants and one is 10 inches away from the light and another plant is 20 inches away. The plant that is 20 inches away only received half the benefit as the one that is 10 inches away. By the same measure a plant that is 40 inches away will only receive twenty five percent of what another plant receives at 10 inches away. You see as light travels further away from the its source it is dispersed over a wider and wider area. The amount of light is the same but its just spread thinner. To illustrate, right next to a HID light it's hot and can burn your hand. Move 8-10" away though and it does not burn at all.
The same is true when it comes to the depth of a trees canopy. Your trees are short right now so you don't really need a lot of light penetration to keep the trees happy. However when they get taller and the canopies get deeper light penetration will mean the difference between life and death or at least healthy and just surviving. Some plants can survive under low light conditions just fine and some need more. Citrus can survive at lower light levels but they won't be happy. As I said before a T5 will probably work for now. But now is a relative thing. As the trees get taller and wider you will either have to get lots and lots of the cheaper lights or 1-2 HID's to keep them all happy.
Ok, soooo.....
I assume an HID would be better stronger, but would one be able to span all of my plants? I am taking a guess here, but I would say I need enough citrus/powerful light for a 5'x5' or even 4'x 4' amount of space?
Now, having a 4' long F5 flouresent would obviously cover this lengh-wise, but will it do the trick, even if I decide to put them in the basement? ANd how close to the tops of the plants do the lights have to be for them to have strong enough light to not lose their fruit? In inches?
I assume if it is a HID light, they can be farther away?
Thanks so much! Christy
bonechickchris one 600 watt HPS will easily cover up to a 6'X6' area. It puts out more than three times the amount of light as a 6 bulb 4' long T5 fixture. It will probably need to be 15-20" inches above the top of the canopy to cover an area that large. You will be amazed at how much light a single 600 watt HPS it puts out. Like the power of the sun in your hands.
Displacer..LOL...believe me, you'd get used to it. My problem is, there's no one plant I like, so, well, you see the results. It's not work, it's fun.. :)
MIKE...ROFL..you're too funny. Thanks for the compliments, but your plants are beautiful, too.
Christy. Besides, scientific reasoning, choosing the right light depends on two other things. Money and Looks.
Both light fixtures came from Home Depot, around 20.00 ea. I really can't afford to spend hundreds for ornate lighting. There are beautiful fixtures around.
Gro-lights aren't too costly. 20-25 per bulb, but they last fairly long. It depends on the number of hours bulbs are on.
Whatever you decide, invest in timers..Lights go on and off for times set...if for some reason you're busy, or forget, lights go on automatically, you won't have to think about it. Toni
So if I were to put all my plants in the basement, I would go with the "mini sun" with thisisme's suggestions,
Looking at the site you gave me thisisme, and at the 600w suggestions,
I see a 600 Watt Digital Electronic Ballast on sale for $189 and an Electronic for $277 as econowing (whatever that means?) or as a Yield Master II for $50 more.
Can you let me know if I am looking at the right ones, and if the one for $189 is ok. Or do I need to go for the one for $277, and what is the difference between the 2 and the Yield master because I have no idea what any of that means! And if there are any other 600w ones I missed on that site that you suggest. Again, thanks, I know it takes time to do this for me!
And hopefulauthor, if I were to keep them upstairs in my livingroom, I probably would go your route. The only thing is that I have kind of done what you have already. I did get a fixture from Home Depot with a Grow Light, However, I did not try to have one cool and one warm, so maybe that would do the trick if I decide to keep them upstairs. Thanks for the tip!
But, because I have been noticing a lot of sap oozing the last year or so, I am strongly considering moving them downstairs this year. Plus, I have started a small fig tree collection, and I think they are still too young to over winter outside here, and I know they will not be too welcome in the living quarters. So I really think downstairs in the basement is looking to be the new likely place, so "mini-sun" may have a slight lead now!
But Toni, I still am going to use your idea for my house plants upstairs and probably one choice citrus or two because I cannot leave it just bare up here you know! LOL! I need one to atleast look at! That is part of the pleasure in all of this! So, I will still use your idea and just replace one of the fixtures I already have with one cool and one warm, instead of both grow lights for what I do leave upstairs!
Oh, and Mike, I am still interested in learning about your lights!
Oh, and thanks again mksmth for the electricity calculations! It helped me a lot and actually made me realize it was not as scary priced as I originally thought! LOL! ( or so I think!)
"But, because I have been noticing a lot of sap oozing the last year or so, I am strongly considering moving them downstairs this year."
Oozing sap? Sap should not ooze.
From where does it ooze? Do you see it on the trunk or branches, or does it kind of drip off the leaves?
Bonechickchris the one in the link has everything you need other than a timer.
By the way; I overwintered a bunch of rooted fig cuttings a few years ago under a 600 watt HPS in my garage and they continued to grow all winter.
Here is a link that might be useful: 600W HPS Digital Ballast, Bulb and Economy Reflector Combo
Ok, just for kicks, I checked out Ebay and found these. Some were cheaper, and all have free shipping, but I just wanted to make sure that they are the same quality as what we were looking at. What do you think?
I forgot to address the sap issue~
It was my fault, I should not of used the word "ooze". Sorry about that.
What I have is just normal leave sap/drop. Not much of a big deal with the smaller citrus I have, but with that really large lemon tree I have, it seems to go all over the windows, screens, molding, floors, etc. And then dust would stick to it and it just is not pretty.
So, I notice the older my citrus get, the more sap I have to deal with. But no, I do not have any disease or openings that are "oozing" sap. Sorry for the confusion :)
There should not be any drippage of anything sticky from a citrus tree. If you have sticky drippings with no apparent damage, you have some kind of sapsucking pest.
Scale are a big culprit with sticky drips. You may not even realize that you have scale, because they don't look like insects. They just look like little bumps. Some species are smooth bumps, some are rough, and some look like furry growths.
Aphids can also make drips, but they look more like bugs so it's more obvious when you have them.
Citrus are clean trees! If you get rid of the pests, you will not have any drips.
Well, I do get some aphids at times in the winter months, never during the outdoor months. I would use a natural non-toxic spray to get rid of them since they were in the living quarters of my house, but it did not seem to work as well I guess.
Sometimes I few scales pop up, but I would say aphids would show up more often than scale.
TO be honest, I thought the sap was just normal of the citrus and pehaps more-so since I had leaf and blossom drop due to my light problems. So I thought maybe it would be less after fixing the lighting issue.
But it is good to know that it is pests causing this instead. I was using a 3 in 1 pest/insect/disease spray that was all natural, but maybe because it was all natural it did not do the trick. I also thought maybe because of the leave drop and the light situation, that is why the aphids started to appear since they did not come until later in the winter after the leaves were falling. But like I said, this was just a guess of mine.
Sooo, do you suggest something else I could use in the HOUSE for the aphid/scale situation?
Thanks for pointing this out to me! Christy
When the trees are outdoors, the aphids are being preyed upon by predator insects, but when you bring them inside you have taken them away from their predators and they are able to breed out of control. The same goes with sucking mites (I seem to have spider mites crop up every winter) and possibly also scale, although I had a big issue with scale this year even after I took the trees outside.
Dripping sap is usually the first symptom for these kinds of pests for me. I see the sticky crud before I see any pests, and that's when I know that I need to get the magnifying glass out and find out what the issue is.
I have tried neem oil but it never worked for me with anything. Other people think that fish emulsion gets rid of pests. I have no experience with this, but I'm trying it out this year in an effort to keep the mites from riding indoors with me again. I wouldn't spray it indoors - it has a strong and, to me, unpleasant odor. Instead, I'm spraying the trees NOW while they're out in the yard.
Scale can be killed with horticultural oil. This works by smothering the insect, so you need to make sure you get good coverage of all plant surfaces. You may also need to repeat the treatment, as the crawlers aren't always killed by the oil. This should be done now, since it is totally messy, so you'd like to do it outside. It will probably get some aphids, too, although I've never used it for aphids.
Acetamiprid kills scale and aphids. It is a systemic insecticide chemically related to nicotine. It works by getting inside the tissues of the plant, and is subsequently sucked out by the insect to kill it. This ensures that even pests that are hidden in crevices are killed, and it bypasses the scale's natural defenses, but it also means that it ends up in the fruit. It's labeled for fruit so it should be safe, but it's up to you whether or not you want to eat fruit off a tree that's been treated with it.
Dinotefuran also kills scale (not sure about aphid), and it works the same way as acetamiprid, but it is NOT labeled for use with fruit. This means that you need to pull the fruit off the tree and discard it. This is a crying shame, because dinotefuran comes as a granule rather than a spray, which is REALLY convenient for indoors use.
Lighting still needs to be addressed if you are getting a lot of leaf drop. You should also be aware that leaf drop can be caused by other things, such as drafts, or a sudden shocking change of environment. Some varieties are more sensitive to these things than others.
Yeah, outside they are just perfect. Actually, anytime I see a Ladybug ( or my five year old son sees one), I pick it up, and put it on one of my citrus trees, usually my large lemon tree, since I know they love to munch on aphids. Actually, I think it has done some good, because I now see little colonies of Lady Bugs that have formed on my Citrus trees. So I think the ones I put on the trees by hand must of informed their "friends" of the new hot spot! LOL!
Since I have grown citrus before at my old house that had lots of light with not many leaf drop problems, I am pretty sure that the current leaf drop situation is the lack of direct sun-light of this house. Now, you would think with this house, it would be perfect, it is ALL windows with a great big view of the lake. In the winter, the way the sun moves, the sun is directly in front of these windows, setting right in front of us over the lake. But I guess since the sun does not come over the house until the afternoon, it is not that early morning/intense light that the citrus really need. My other house had a sun porch that got morning light until the sun came over the house sometime around 1pm. Well, at this house, the sun has to "come over" the house, and that happens AFTER 1pm. Does that make sence?
Looking at this picture, you would think I would get great light.
I also stuck in a pic of my large lemon tree, that came from a seed of another lemon tree that was at the time, 80 years old, brought over on the boat from Avellino, Italy. This tree was a seedling of that old tree, and is about 13-15 years old. I have posted about this tree before. It has blossomed before, however the blossoms would never fruit. I mean, you would never even get to see a little "knob" in there to let you know a fruit was possible. So odd. I have been waiting so long for this tree to fruit. I wish I knew what kind of fruit it was. Anyway, that is another story.
I do have Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Oil I just got the other day for the aphids and scale to try as a preventative because I did have in mind to spray soon before I bring them in in a month or so, so I did have all of this in mind! I just did not do it yet because I did not know if this would hurt my Lady Bugs or not? Would you think this was a good enough product for preparing to being inside?
If I had a tree that didn't even set fruit, and I wasn't concerned about the organic or natural origin of my solution, I would consider dinotefuran for a sapsucking insect issue. It makes your plant poisonous, but if you're not eating anything off it, it doesn't matter much.
I don't know if the oil will harm the ladybirds, but you can probably shake them off the tree before you spray. I hear you with the picking-them-up-and-putting-them-on-the-tree thing ... they are so cute.
Kind of weird about the fruit, though. Do you mean that the ovary part of the flower just drops off when the flower does? Do you have another lemon tree to cross-pollinate? Maybe it's self-sterile and needs a friend. I am just guessing. It is a beautiful tree!
Your house is lovely, and look at that view! I know what you're saying about the light, and I'm sure you're right - if they only get direct sun in the late afternoons, your leaf drop is likely to be light-related.
Christy, your home is beautiful...Your outside door is so pretty.. :)
Although you have quite a few windows, obviously, the outside trees obstruct sunlight. Is your palm normally kept in the room? It's doing great, but citrus need a lot more light than most palms.
The scale must go..aphids, too. It's true, Fish Emulsion has an odor, but 1. they now have an odor-less type, 'never tried it, but I'd bet it still has a fishy smell,' and 2. it kills Scale. Worth a couple days of stink. lol. If possible, you can spray outdoors, wait a day, then bring back inside. I'm not thrilled with its scent, but rather deal with it for a day or two, then have a house filled w/bugs.
9 or so years back I ordered an Olive tree. I didn't notice it arrived with scale. Although I mist daily, I somehow missed seeing them. A wk or so went by, and again while misting, I noticed one side of a citrus, neighboring the olive, had brown, lumpy bumps on its branches. I inspected the olive and noticed it was scale-loaded. They were everywhere. I looked at a second citrus on the other side of the olive, and sure enough, branches closest to the olive had scale.
I remembered a woman who owns a citrus nursery telling me she used Fish Emulsion as a preventative. I followed her directions, and 3 days later, all signs of scale were gone. The olive and both citrus branches were insect-free. From then on, I started using FE as an insecticide/preventative, and its regular use, to fertilize C&S's.
If you're finding honeydew on your walls/windows, and floors, I'm afraid to say, your citrus must have quite a few.
Hope I'm wrong, but you really should check all parts of your tree and nearby plants. Long term scale causes deformed leaves and fruit.
Since I steer clear of chemicals, I make up a home-made insecticide..been using it for years..the only bug it doesn't kill is Mealy, and thank God, I haven't seen any. Well, I did find some on a new plant, and tossed it. The same day!
It won't hurt to try the cool/warm bulbs..but citrus need sunlight, too..The lights won't raise your electric bill much. Ours bill goes up in winter, but I keep lights on for hours..tv, computer, and more lights..lol. In summer, when most bills go up, ours go down. We don't use a/c, so, it evens out. lol.
Your tree on the porch is gorgeous..so symetrical. Toni
Chris, WoW!
What a beautiful teree and porch..I would love living there all year..I wouldn't even give the south a second thought living on a lake with all those windows..Your citrus ought to be ashamed of themselves dropping leaves after being spoiled there...
Awe, thank you guys for all of the nice compliments on my house!
Funny, because anything growing on the porch does just fine, but as soon as they are inside by the windows, the light is restricted just enough in the winter. Of course the palms do fine since they do not need the light requirements of citrus.
Now, with the big lemon tree, it has no blossoms on it now. Should get some in Oct/Nov. Yes, it is weird. It will get tons of blossoms. It acts like it needs a pollinator I thought. But then again, that is my opinion. To me, it seems there is a part missing in the flower, like the little "lump" in there. Like it is limp.
Now, I know that citrus are suppose to be self-fertile, so what the heck I am talking about, I do not know, I am just trying to explain how I look at it.
As for its parent, that 80 year old ( or would probably be 100 by now, if it is still alive). It was a lemon tree brought over from Avellino, Italy like around the 1910's.
Unfortunately, noone ever knew the variety. All that I know is that it was the largest lemon I had ever seen! The parent lemon was the size of a grapefruit or bigger! It was insane! This tree, the last time I saw it, was probably somewhat bigger than my tree, but it was "old" looking. It looked like a huge bonsaii tree, if that makes sence. Like it had these thick, huge, dark looking branches. Very interesting.
I guess, if I were to compare a lemon, I would say the only lemon I have ever seen come close to size of this lemon is a Ponderosa Lemon, but these lemons were still larger than any Ponderosa lemon I have ever seen. So was this because of how old this tree was, or because this was some kind of intersting, rare Italian variety, I do not know.
So,my tree, was a seedling of one of these massive lemons. My tree is probably pushing 15 years old. It has had some ups and downs with moves and leaf loss. It lost a lot of leaves this winter, but obviously came back nice this summer, so I hope it will blossom ok this fall. And when it does, I can hopefully take pictures and disect blooms for closer analization.
Trust me, this tree is very sentimental to me. I have had a long post about this. Most have answered to me about a tree needing so many leaf noded to blossom and fruit. But the tree does blossom, so I do not think that is the issue. It is the point that it does not fruit after it blossoms.
Well, this may sound weird, but I guess I will tell you anyway, they you can all think I am nuts.
You know my friend, who was the one who's father who brought the original tree over from Italy all of those years ago. His father waited forever for his lemon tree to fruit all of those years. It never did for him.
Well, his father passed away ( we are talking like the 1960's). Well, didn't you know the year his father passed, was the 1st year his tree fruited? Like since he never got to see it fruit himself, he made darn sure from above that tree finally fruited even if it was after he passed!
Well, my friend said to me, "Well, maybe when I pass, it will finally be the 1st year when you tree finally fruits!"
My friend passed this July.
So this season, I am a little freaked out about my tree.
Hi Christy,
First of all I want to offer my sincerest condolences on your friends passing:( I know how difficult that can be. I lost a good friend my first year out of high school. He jumped off a peer in Lake Erie. He was under the influence of alcohol and drugs and another close friend of mine tried t osave him but he ended up smashing his face into the break wall and losing my friend. That morning theyfound him floating in the harbour.
Okay, about your tree. I have a nice lush dwarf keylime tree. Of all places, I bought it from Roberta's on QVC. It was a small little whip of a tree but has since grown to be over 3 ft tall. It has loaded up plenty of times with flowers. My first complaint was that this tree was advertised as having a great scent. Logees greenhouse also sells it this way and there is NO detectable scent whatsoever! Anyhow, my buds would open and then right about the time the petals would start to drop, the whole flower would fall off! I did have the tiny ovary at the base of the flower but it never developed. I have had a few here and there that did hold on but always fell before they ever got any size to them. Mike also told me that even though citrus are supposed to be self fertile, it may need to be pollinated. I also know that there are some citrus that need cross pollinators to set fruit well. One of them is a citrus that I have been considering buying, the minneola tangelo. I read up on it and read some posts here on it and found that they don't have to have the cross pollinator but you may only get a couple fruits without one.
Hi Toni,
I wanted to tell youy that I will email you some pics of my two mango trees. Sadly, one of them is going to die but it was my fault. This is the mango I brought back from Florida and I didn't pay attention to the trunk of the tree like I should have. When I got it home, I realized that the bark was split in one spot but I was home and it was too late to do anything about it. I have learned a ton about these trees and though I have lost 3 in the past, I am confident enough to buy more and get some of my own fresh mangoes. mango and cherimoya are my favorite fruits. I did want your opinion on these HPS lights. Now, I have read that they are brighter than bright. Fine with me, as long as they are bright enough to support strong healthy growth. This HidHut website has some killer deals. I am going to order the 600 watt HPS. I am going to need to of them. I went a little crazy on buying fruit trees this year. I bought a 'Day' avoacdo, two different varieties of cherimoya, one actually is a double grafted tree with an atemoya also on it, 3 citrus trees, a mango tree, tons of cherimoya, sugar apple, passion fruit and guava seedlings. I have around 14 large trees so I am hoping that if I buy two of these 600 watt set ups, I can suspend the light above the trees with three trees on one side and 3 on the otherside, that way I can have six trees under each light. My seedlingsa are still small enough to fit on my table but I also ordered 3 cacti from K and L cactus. I have a jackfruit that is growing pretty quickly and my problem is like Christy. I have hardly any good quality natural light. Well, I hope all is well with you and I will email you soon.
I also need to email you. I got some good news about some of the stresses I was talking about with you. I will be sending your package out to you next week. Wether the angel trumpet is ready to be cut or not. Did I mention that the same plant that bloomed once has about 8 buds on it? It should be blooming by the end of this week or maybe next week. I will email you pics when it is blooming so you can see what you will be getting.
For anyone not used to HID lighting be careful. The lights can sun burn plants that are to close. The way to judge how close a plant can be to a light is simple though. After the light is at full brightness. Say 15-20 mins after it is turned on. Put the back of your hand under the light and hold it there for say 15-20 seconds. If the back of your hand starts to burn from the heat its too close to the plant. Don't put a plant closer to the light than is comfortable for your hand in the hand test.
These are powerful lights meant to grow plants and trees indoors. So as your trees grow you will need to raise the light to keep the tree from growing to close. If you don't it can grow to close and burn the new growth.
I'm sorry to hear about your friend. I do hope that you can get the tree to fruit, though.
You know, when all our trees bloom this fall, someone could mail you some lemon pollen and you could try to pollinate your tree that way. It's worth a shot, right? I have two lemons, a Eureka and a Meyer, and if they bloom before yours I'd be willing to send you a little bag of stamens to try.
Hi Guys!
Sorry, I was away from the forum for the past few days.
Yes, I would have the light suspended from the rafters in the basement so I am sure the light would be high enough from the plants. THe small plants would have to be on a table as it is because if they were on the ground, they would only be 2ft off the ground, and I am sure that would not be close enough to the light, even with this powerful light.
I figure put the small trees on top of a table to reach the same height as my big lemon tree does, which is 4-5 feet tall. This way they are all about the same height together. So, about how heigh should the light be from all of them above?
Thank you for the pollen offer! Now that I have several others blossoming, I am hoping to have some luck, but if not, I will definitely let you know! That would be really weird if it fruited this year for the first time like my friend said.
bonechickchris the distance really depends on two things.
1) The amount of heat the light is putting out at a given distance.
2) How high you need to raise the light for it to cover the desired area.
To get #1 you turn on the light and let it run for 30-45 mins. Then put the back of your had under the light. If the back of your hand starts to burn after 15 seconds its to close.
To get #2 you start with the distance the back of your hand is comfortable with. Then move the light higher until all the canopies are receiving light.
If the walls are white or if you put some reflective material around the trees you can maximize the light source even further.
Here is a link that might be useful: Reflectix Bubble Pack Insulation
I have used Wonderlites because they screw into a fixture. I have bloomed Plumerias and orchids under them. I also use CFL's in octopus type floor lamps with success to carry over orchids and get them to bloom indoors. I buy the highest watt CFLs in Home Depot and can put 4 in the octopus lamps.
The Wonderlites are much stronger and do generate heat. They were great for blooming the Plumies idoors.
Here is a link that might be useful: Wonderlite


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Early Morning Fire Destroys Pocatello Barn
(POCATELLO, ID) — A fire destroys a barn early this morning at 1748 Falcon Circle South in a rural neighborhood west of the Pocatello Regional Airport.
The barn owner, Gary Bowlin, tells the Idaho State journal that no livestock was in the barn and no one was injured. Bowlin says he had four-wheelers, a riding mower, tools, and other items inside the barn that are all lost.
The cause of the fire is unknown.
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WOODBURY - A suspected case of road rage led to a motorist running over a pedestrian at a busy Woodbury intersection, Washington County prosecutors say.
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Visitation numbers for Yellowstone National Park surpassed three million for the fifth year in a row in 2011. Overall visitation to Yellowstone for 2011 was 3,394,321. While down 6.8 percent from the record 3,640,184 people who visited the park the previous
Johnson County's high school sports teams resumed play this week, and scores from Friday were:
in boys' basketball, Buffalo downed Wheatland 63-56; the Kaycee Buckaroos fell to 2A Sundance 51-40.
In girls' basketball, the Buffalo Lady Bison lost at Wheatland 70-37; and the Kaycee Lady Bucs beat 2A Sundance 48-28.
The Bison wrestling and swim teams are competing this weekend as well, we'll have results as they become available.
Johnson County Clerk Vicki Edelman updated the county commissioners on a property tax dispute that was reviewed by the State Board of Equalization in December.
(WYO NEWS SERVICE) – Wyoming's winter hasn't been as cruel as it can be, but cold days and snow storms can hit quickly. Pam Moen, spokesperson for Triple-A, says its always important to be prepared for winter travel in the Cowboy State.
The Big Horn Rams basketball team got past the Wright Panthers easily Friday night in Big Horn, 61 to 46. The Big Horn Lady Rams won as well behind a late push, 51 to 37. The Big Horn girls and boys teams will play at Moorcroft today with tip off times of noon and 1:30, respectively.
As students return to Laramie this weekend to prepare for Spring 2012 classes, President Tom Buchanan says it's a great time to come see some of the things happening at the University of Wyoming.
The two-day legislative forum that took place in Sheridan this week has become an annual event put on by the Sheridan County Chamber of Commerce Governmental Affairs Committee.
Is is soccer, football or basketball as Big Horn's Tony Mort appears to have kicked the basketball to teammate Conner McCafferty in front of Wright's 6'2" Arren Jones - it must have been a high kick.
As Big Horn Lady Ram Erica O'Dell guards Wright Lady Panther Brittany Belt on their way down court they pass in front of the Big Horn Pep Band. The sheet music on the stand is "I Gotta Feeling" by the Black Eyes Peas. The Pep Band may have played just the music but no doubt the lyrics set the tone for Friday night's game between the Big Horn and Wright girls varsity basketball game.
The Sheridan Broncs fall to Riverton 43 to 47.


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In the app, I'm struggling with I have a custom view. I cannot declare it in layout XML file, because I'm going to use in from the activity that holds my custom view instance and I need to have access to it (cannot override findViewById...).
Thereof I decided to declare all of the GUI elements into the Activity.
But I simply cannot make a single step forward, since I even cannot instantiate viewGroup...
This is what I'm trying:
public void onCreate(Bundle savedInstanceState) {
ViewGroup vg = new ViewGroup(this.getApplicationContext());
and I get 'Cannot instantiate ViewGroup'...
Can someone give a straight-forward example, of how to declare a viewGroup, that holds views?
The documentation of the class is also not very beginner-friendly... all the examples are focused on describing the layout in a layout XML file...?
Appreciate your efford, giving an example!


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Realized that Catharanthus roseus isn't hardy like true Vinca
This spring I bought a hanging basket of what I thought was Vinca Minor. It bloomed glorously all summer in full sun, with a drip emitter keeping it watered. I took several cuttings and after a slow start, they are now beautiful too, and growing quickly and blooming spectacularly light pink. And no deadheading required, as the spent flowers fall right off.
I was all set to take a bunch of cuttings to use this as a groundcover, but I just realized that it's really Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar Periwinkle), hardy only in Zones 9-11. Since Huntsville, AL is in Zone 7, glad I realized this before I put a lot of effort into it.
Guess I'll just have to buy some seeds or buy another basket of it next spring and enjoy it that way next year. Sure wish I could have gotten something long-blooming like this growing as a perenial evergreen groundcover. Any suggestions?
Here is a link that might be useful: Catharanthus roseus
Mine come back from seed. I bought some years ago, and have never needed any more. Sometimes I need to move them, and they transplant well.
Look into Verbena 'Homestead Purple'. Mine blooms most of the summer and is evergreen to boot. It does need good drainage through the winter, though.


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text: HomeFighter Talk Anderson Silva Is A Troll – Goofy Video Bruno July 5, 2013 Fighter Talk 9 Comments Anderson Silva Is A Troll – Goofy Video. Tweet Pin It Tags:Anderson Silva Related Posts Fighter Talk Georges St-Pierre Under Armour – Armour39 Commercial By Bruno Feb 2, 2013 Fighter Talk Babalu Sobral Trains For Dream Light Heavyweight Tourny By Bruno Apr 4, 2010 Fighter Talk Jeremy Stephens Beaks Down Fight With Melvin Guillard Post U... By Bruno Sep 9, 2010 9 Comments memphismike July 6, 2013 this was hilarious too funny love the AS comedy thx brubo Reply TRA the mens rea July 6, 2013 Seriously that was so funny watched it 3 times. Anderson pops up and gives people an unexpected strike. The best thing is the champ does that in the ring (ie unexpected pop). Maybe funny too if Anderson tries kissin some dudes in public like he did at the weigh in. Or like that knee he gave Sonnen in the second fight. Reply greengiant July 6, 2013 Pretty funny stuff there. Reply Ozinator July 6, 2013 Remember when "troll" meant someone who posited an opinion they didn't necessarily believe in for the express purpose of eliciting an angry response? Fishing/Trolling. Reply marvelous mad madam mim July 6, 2013 Oz- yep, this is like a prank not a troll. a troll would be the president obama saying how he really truly cares for the people and he is going to turn against his billionaire fascist buddies. this is a happy response most likely but still a lie/troll Reply KungFuLowKick July 6, 2013 You mean troll doesn't mean everything involving some kind of comedy and the internet?? Reply boonching July 6, 2013 troll = the legendary "Black Gerbil" Reply boonching July 6, 2013 and shrek kinda Reply mmafan July 6, 2013 A Silva is funny in much the same way that Michael Jackson was "funny" Reply Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked * Name Email Website Current ye@r * Leave this field empty


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Theater Review | Apr 15, 2014
Doctor Faustus Gives Hamlet a Schooling in Witty 'Wittenberg'
Martin Luther, Hamlet and Doctor Faustus prove an irresistible combination for a college comedy. By Sam Hurwitt
Performance | Apr 12, 2014
The Sean Keane Exit Interview
Last month, Sean Keane, one of San Francisco's top standup comedians, announced that he is moving to Los Angeles in May. Before letting him board that 'Greyhound of the Skies' flight to Bob Hope Airport, it seemed only fitting to subject him to that most ignominious of employment traditions: the exit interview. By Anthony Bedard
Theater Review | Apr 07, 2014
Reality Shifts 'Every Five Minutes' in Magic Theatre's Post-Traumatic Stress Play
Scottish playwright Linda McLean returns to the Magic with the fragmented remnants of a released prisoner's mind. By Sam Hurwitt
Theater Review | Mar 29, 2014
Masochistic Audition Comedy Is a Kinky Trifle
Auditioning actress turns the tables in a bondage comedy. By Sam Hurwitt
Performance | Mar 28, 2014
Bay Area Treated to the Beauty of Dancing as Performers Take Initiative and 'Dance Anywhere'
Friday was a day for dancing, especially in the Bay Area, where dance enthusiasts of all kinds shook their stuff as part of the worldwide flash mob known as dance anywhere. By Kevin L. Jones
Theater Review | Mar 28, 2014
Point Shipyard Project Tells Bayview's Gentrification Story
In "Point Shipyard Project," Push Dance Company has collaborated with the 3rd Street Youth Center and Clinic located next to Bayview-Hunters Point to explore what the future of the neighborhood might look like. By Olivia Allen-Price
Event | Mar 28, 2014
Dancers: Your Chance to Join a Worldwide Flash Mob Has Arrived
Just like what Men Without Hats told us back in the '80s -- "You can dance if you want to" -- but the organizers behind the worldwide performance dance anywhere also want you to know that you can dance at any time, anywhere. By Kevin L. Jones
Performance | Mar 24, 2014
Comedy's Worst-Kept Secret: Mark Pitta & Friends at Mill Valley's Throckmorton Theatre
Once a silent-film and vaudeville house where Charlie Chaplin performed, Mill Valley's 100-year-old Throckmorton Theatre is a local hub for live entertainment. The Throck's regular Mark Pitta & Friends Tuesday Night Comedy is a Bay Area comedy institution with a devoted following. By Lori Halloran
Performance | Mar 20, 2014
Silicon-Valley Businesswoman Builds a Future for Ancient Arts
Two decades ago former electronics engineer Ann Woo founded Chinese Performing Arts of America in San Jose to hand down the Chinese culture she loves. Today the organization Is a professional performing troupe, an arts-education center and a thriving multicultural arts incubator that provides a platform for traditional and contemporary artists to create new works every year. By Amy Miller
Theater Review | Mar 17, 2014
Interrogating the Interrogators in Madcap Farce
Minneapolis comic actor Steven Epp returns to Berkeley Rep in Dario Fo's biting 1970 agitprop farce, Accidental Death of an Anarchist. By Sam Hurwitt
Performing Arts
'Wolf Hall' On Stage And TV Means More Makeovers For Henry VIII's 'Pit Bull'
Hilary Mantel's popular novels breathed new life into Thomas Cromwell's legacy. Now, between a play and a miniseries, there seems to be no limit to the blacksmith's son's potential for reinvention.
Tony Award-Winning Director Gene Saks Dies At 93
Gene Saks teamed with playwright and fellow New Yorker Neil Simon on Broadway and movie productions of such Simon comedies as The Odd Couple and Brighton Beach Memoirs. He died Saturday in New York.
Pour A Bucket Of Blood On These New Adaptations Of 'Carrie'
Stephen King has said his novel Carrie is about women's power and men's fear — an idea reporter Beth Accomando says has gotten lost in newer adaptations of the horror classic for stage and screen.
James Corden Nods To Talk Show Tradition With CBS's 'Late Late Show'
British comic actor James Corden took over CBS's Late Late Show on Monday with a star-studded debut. NPR TV Critic Eric Deggans says he offered a touch of talk show tradition with a modern feel.
Also on KQED.org this week ...
KQED Celebrates Women's History Month
KQED proudly celebrates the richness and diversity of the greater San Francisco Bay Area by commemorating Women's History Month. In March, KQED Public TV 9 and Public Radio 88.5 FM schedule a special lineup of programs focused on themes and issues related to women.
"Boomtown" History of the San Francisco Bay Area
KQED's "Boomtown" series will seek to identify what is happening in real time in the current boom, and also draw out the causes and possible solutions to the conflicts and pressures between the old and the new.


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The complex rules of the United States Senate are the subject of a national debate. Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid (D-NV) has announced his intent to consider a proposal to reform the rules of the Senate to curtail the use of the filibuster in January of 2013. The filibuster allows Senators to speak for as long as they wish, on any topic they choose, unless three-fifths of the Senators vote to invoke cloture, thus ending debate. Republicans are upset by Reid's frequent use of a parliamentary tactic to block amendments from members of the minority party and worry that reform will result in a power grab by the party in power. Join us as we debate and discuss the filibuster, proposed rules changes, and the traditional role of the United States Senate in the legislative process.
Brian Darling Senior Fellow, Government Studies, The Heritage Foundation
Norman J. Ornstein Resident Scholar, American Enterprise Institute
Bill WichtermanFormer Policy Advisor to Senate Majority Leader Bill Frist
James WallnerExecutive Director, Senate Steering Committee
While this event has passed, we have archived its content and discussion in our archive.
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Elected President of Mexico in 2000, Vicente Fox ended leftist rule that dominated the nation's politics for seven decades. His administration implemented sound economic — Read more
In its February 25 North Carolina Dental v. Federal Trade Commission decision, the Supreme Court held that a state regulatory board that is controlled by — Read more
In Our Lost Constitution, Senator Mike Lee tells the dramatic, little-known stories behind six of the Constitution's most indispensable provisions. He shows their rise. — Read more
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The nuclear negotiations between Iran and the P5 plus 1 have entered a crucial phase ahead of the March 30 deadline for a framework agreement. — Read more
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If you are an Xiaomi device user like Mi 3, Mi 4, Redmi 1S android smartphone and want to install Google application on your phone. Most of the user can't find the Google apps on the phone like Gmail, YouTube, Play store etc. To do this all you need a Google play store app on your phone and after that ...Read More »
How to
How to Remove System or Chinese Apps From Mi 3 or Redmi 1S
If you are the owner of Xiaomi Mi 4, Mi 3 and Redmi 1s or any other Xiaomi Smartphone user and want to uninstall all the system unwanted app (Chinese apps). Here is the small and helpful guide which you can follow on your phone removed all those unwanted application in one single click. Few months back we posted a ...Read More »
How to Downgrade Mi 3 MIUI v6 Developer ROM to Stable MIUI ROM
If you recently updated your Xiaomi Mi 3 with the latest MIUI 6 developer ROM and not happy with the new dev rom or facing some issues, and want to go back to the MIUI 5 Stable ROM or Downgrade to MIUI Stable ROM. All the developers roms are the beta version of upcoming MIUI OS and it has some ...Read More »
How to Update Xiaomi Mi 3 and Mi 4 with MIUI 6 Developer version
Xiaomi Mi 3 W/C version and Mi 4 W/C version will start to get MIUI 6 update this Friday. If you are the Xiamoi Mi3 Indian user then you can install this update today and enjoy the new MIUI 6 ROM on your new phone. Very soon the update is available for the Mi 3 and Mi 4. Please note ...Read More »
How to Flash MIUI ROM on Xiaomi Redmi 1S, Mi4, Mi3, Note, Pad
Redemi 1S is the latest android smartphone from Xiaomi, Xiaomi Redmi 1S smartphone with 4.70-inch 720×1280 display powered by 1.6GHz processor alongside 1GB RAM and 8-megapixel rear camera. Pre-booking for the devices has started on the Flipkart.com and available for the sale on September 2nd. Now lots of other Model from Xiaomi like MI4, Note, Pad are coming very soon ...Read More »
How to Install MIUI 6 Beta Version on Xiaomi Mi3 Android
From last few days we are sharing some tips and guide for the Xiaomi Mi3 android phone users. Now today in this guide we'll show you how you can easily install the MIUI 6 beta version on your Mi3 android smartphone. MIUI 6 is the latest ROM with lots of new features and improvements. Recently the MIUI 6 is released ...Read More »
Install Stump App to Root LG G3 in one click
Few days we showed you a method to Root LG G3 with PurpleDrake tool. Which works on most of the LG G3 devices like D851, D852, D855, D855K, D855P, D5850, F400K, F400L, F400S. Now today we found a new application called "Stump", which works on the CDMA variants and the T-Mobile, Verizon, Spring and AT&T version of the LG G3. ...Read More »


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Cooking without a hood
Hypothetically, if your hood or OTR microwave were on backorder, hypothetically, would you still be willing to cook on your electric cooktop for 1-2 months?
Not worried about the lack of venting itself (will only do low-level cooking, boiling water, etc, no frying or stinky fish or anything). More worried about the heat/steam doing something to the cabinetry above the cooktop.
And again it's not gas, it's electric.
So hypothetically, what do you say? Totally hypothetically, of course...
We've had a small hood and an OTR micro, neither of which vented to the outside. We rarely used the recirculating fan (noisy and ineffective).
While we didn't have a bare cabinet right above the stove, the opening was the same as the stove width (30"), so the adjacent upper cabinets were in the heat/steam path. How high is the cabinet above the range?
Use the front burners as much as possible, and open windows when cooking. Hopefully this hypothetical appliance shows up soon.
It's going to be an OTR microwave, not a hood (just didn't feel like getting scolded here), so the only cabinets I guess I'm worried about are those that would be above the "hypothetical" microwave.
It's not really backordered. I posted about this in the Appliances forum, but briefly, GE has updated its Profile line. Just finding this out days before the appliances are to be installed. The oven has been updated, so they are getting me the new oven, but the matching microwave isn't due to come out until September. I have agreed to wait on it so that I can get the newest models, but I wanted to make sure it would be ok to use the kitchen prior to the arrival of the "hypothetical" microwave. :)
Thanks, annkh!
I have a range hood that's vented to the outside. It's as wide as my stove, so the adjacent cab sides are close by. I just realized that the only time I turn on my hood fan is when I sear meat, at most once a week. I never turn it on when I boil pasta or anything else that creates steam. It has actually never occurred to me to do so. So, I gotta add to the comments that no fan on during most of my non-hypothetical cooking has had no ill effects on my cabinets.
Same here, we bought a 30 year old house that has the hood that doesn't vent to the outside, we put a new one in because the old one didn't work (so P.O.s hadn't been using it for who knows how long. We rarely use the new one and the cabs are perfectly fine, I think you'll be okay until September (anyone remember that movie 'Until September', goodness that Thierry is adorable lol).
Here is a link that might be useful: Until September IMDb
I'm a little OCD about using my vent. I turn it all the time. Even when I open my oven.
It took me so long to get a new kitchen with real venting I use all the time.
Edited to say I just turned my vent on now before I even turned the burner on to start boiling water for pasta. (Rotini with alfredo sauce). I've scrubbed enough gunk off cabinets (my own and our rental) to last a life time.
This post was edited by debrak2008 on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 17:55
as others have said, you'll be fine. I cooked for 12 or so yrs on a cooktop w/o a vent fan over it. there was a small oven over it. About the size of OTR now. It was my only oven and I cooked/baked a ton raising my 4 kids there. I even canned during some of those years. No damage to cabinets above.
There was damage to the door of the cab above where I had the coffee pot tho. That cabinet was much lower. Never thought about it damaging the cabinet back then.
I think a couple of months will probably be fine. I think it would take longer than that to damage the cabinets, even with steam. However, b/f you install the OTR MW, scrub down the sides and top of the opening. You don't want even a light coating of gunk to fester inside the cabinet once the MW is installed.
As to cooking for XX years with no hood...my experience is so different from those that say they have no build-up etc. Do they wash down their cabs every day or week? That's the only way I can see that happening. My parents do not have a hood, just a cabinet above, a wall to the right, and counters to the left. You can definitely tell they don't have a hood! The upper cabinet's underside and front are covered with layer of "gunk" that you can't wash off. The ceiling above the range and the wall next to it are also coated. If I have anything to say about it, I will never be without an externally vented hood!


text: My name is Joy and my name suits me perfect! I love exploring this amazing world, meeting new people, and experiencing new adventures. I work at an Advertising Agency and love creative energy. I'm really big into CrossFit and all things that go with it such as eating healthy, lifting heavy weights, and handstands :)


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Potholes and Peace of Mind
Anyone who drives is most likely on the lookout for potholes. This time of year, the roads are just decimated with holes and cracks. It doesn't matter if you're driving on country roads, highways or city streets – no pavement is spared from winter's fiery.
As you continue to drive over this terrain, your car can take a beating. Even if you do your best to slow down and swerve to avoid major potholes, your vehicle is likely to absorb a fair share of bumps. There is just too much road damage that accumulates over these long winters.
If you notice a change in your vehicle's performance, don't hesitate – stop into any Dunn Tire for our Peace of Mind inspection. We'll check for signs of damage to your tires, brakes, suspension, alignment, balance, etc.
In some cases, you may be unaware that a problem exists, or you may keep postponing an appointment for a variety of reasons. Unnoticeable damage can lead to a variety of issues which reduce driving performance and jeopardize safety. You may find that your tires begin to wear unevenly or the vehicle develops handling problems that were not there before. That's why it's important to bring the vehicle in to be checked out as soon as possible, rather than putting it off. Procrastination may end up costing you more money in the long run.
In addition to having your vehicle checked out when there is a problem, routine maintenance can be your best ally. Having a trained technician inspect your suspension, alignment, wheels, and tires is invaluable. Taking the appropriate precautions can result in improved vehicle performance, handling, efficiency, and safety. Some of these minor adjustments can provide immeasurable benefits. Furthermore it gives you peace of mind.Top


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Women's Tennis Set For NCAA Quarterfinal Showdown With Tufts
Contact: Ben Badua
AMHERST, MA – The Amherst College women's tennis team will face a familiar opponent when it takes the court in Claremont, CA for its NCAA Quarterfinal match, squaring off against fellow NESCAC rival Tufts University.
With a pair of 5-0 wins over SUNY New Paltz and Middlebury College, the top-ranked Lord Jeffs advanced out of the championship's regional rounds for the 16th time in the past 17 years, improving to 18-2 on the season and 39-18 overall in NCAA Tournament play. By virtue of their victories over Hunter College (5-0) and Johns Hopkins University (5-1), fifth-ranked Tufts (16-5) earned its first-ever NCAA Quarterfinal berth.
Earlier this season, the Jeffs edged out a 5-4 decision against Jumbos in Medford, MA (Apr. 19). First-years Jordan Brewer (Woodland Hills, CA) and Gabby Devlin (McLean, VA), the ITA Northeast Region's top doubles pairing, defeated senior Julia Browne and first-year Shelci Bowman, slotted third in the Northeast, 8-4, and will look to improve upon their 26-2 doubles record with a quarterfinal win.
Tufts' Lindsay Katz and Eliza Flynn, now ranked 13th in the region, earned a close 9-8 (4) second doubles victory over senior Mimi Bell (Cleveland, OH) and junior Laura Danzig (Allendale, NY), but Bell has since paired with senior Natasha Brown (Woodland Hills, CA), with the duo having won their last five outings, including a pair of triumphs in NCAA Tournament play.
Amherst's Jennifer Newman '14 (Haverford, PA) and Caroline Richman '13 (Pacific Palisades, CA) secured a 8-6 third doubles win over the Jumbos Jennifer LaCara and Dana Siegel in the teams' Apr. 19 meeting, but could see a different tandem in Tuesday's (May 24) match-up. The Jumbos' Lauren Hollender and Samantha Gann have gone 10-1 on the year, posting a 3-0 mark at third doubles, with tournament wins over Hunter and Johns Hopkins.
Browne, ranked third in the Northeast, secured a 7-6 (1), 6-2 win over Danzig in first singles in the squads' showdown earlier this season, but should face a tougher task matching up against Brewer – the region's top-ranked player – at the top of the lineup. Brewer, coming off of a 6-3, 6-2 win over sixth-ranked Victoria Aiello in Amherst's regional final victory over Middlebury, posted a 16-5 overall mark in 2010-11 and will look to hand Browne (20-6) just her seventh loss of the year.
Jeffs senior Carlissa King (Bayside, NY), slotted 16th in the region, will look to duplicate her last showing against 14th-ranked Lindsay Katz at second singles after taking their earlier meeting 3-6, 6-1, 6-4. Bowman and Devlin meet in what will serve as a rematch of this season's hard-fought 0-6, 6-3, 7-5 third singles showdown which Bowman took. Bowman has since gone 3-2, while Devlin has won three of four matches during that span.
Richman will once again look to upend Flynn at fourth singles, with a 6-3, 6-2 triumph already under her belt, while Hollender, who defeated Amherst's Laken King (Bayside, NY) 3-6, 7-6 (4), 6-2 in the fifth spot earlier this year, may now have to deal with Brown, who carries an 11-2 singles mark into the contest.
Laken King anchors the Jeffs' singles line-up in the sixth slot, posting a 10-4 mark on the year, which includes a decisive 6-1, 6-0 win in Amherst's second round victory over New Paltz. Gann, who did not appear in the teams' match earlier this season, carries an 18-4 record into the contest, having won 10 of her last 11, including a 6-0, 6-0 sweep of John Hopkins' Andrea Berlinghof in the regional final.
Tuesday's quarterfinal is set to begin at 12 p.m. EST at the Biszantz Family Tennis Center and Pauley Tennis Complex. The Jeffs, making their ninth quarterfinal appearance, have won their last 18 meetings with the Jumbos, notching a pair of NCAA tournament wins over Tufts during that span. Amherst took the squads' regional championship match-up in 2002, 6-3, before handing the Jumbos a 5-3 loss in the 2009 regional final.