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Electrolux slide-in induction range EW30IS6CJS 3 day review
So many times before purchasing I googled this range to see reviews, which were sparse. So I thought I'd contribute for future searches. I've had it installed for 3 days now, and have baked, cooked, broiled, boiled, etc.
The stovetop:
1. I like the burner configuration, however I'm not picky at all. It fits my small, medium and large pots and pans well. Both Lagostina Roma and Walmart Eco-green work fine with the induction requirements.
2. VERY responsive controls (rolling boil to simmer in 2-3 control presses... have never had gas to this is impressive to me).
3. I boiled 1L (a quart?) of cold water to rolling boil in 3:00 (not 90 sec as advertised, but still faster than electric and gas (timed at 8:00 and 4:43 respectively... yes we are nothing if not scientific!)
4. You cannot take something off a hob and place your hand on the burner! Seemed too good to be true, of course. You can touch the burner quickly, but anything more and you'd burn yourself. I don't see the advertised picture of the half pan cut with chocolate melting in the pan and solid on the cooktop happening IRL.
The oven(s):
1. Preheat is LONG. Like 10 minutes to heat to 350 long. I've tried both the large and small oven (thinking small oven would heat faster due to smaller size) and both were slow. I haven't tried the rapid preheat yet.
2. Convection convert seems iffy. Baked cookies with it (2 large pans at once) and had to leave in for ~30% more time. Baked banana bread without conversion and timing was as normal. ??? I've never had convection before so not sure if normal?
3. Racks (3 in large oven) very close together. Above banana bread rose to touch one! I will probably remove the "non-ball bearing glide" rack and store in bottom oven.
Learning curve:
Reasonable. It did take me 5 minutes WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS to figure out how to turn on a burner! I kept tapping... you actually have to hold it for a second or 2 to make it respond. Probably a good safety/PITA feature for inadvertent hits to the control panel. Everything else seems very intuitive with a first reading of the instructions (although the "quick reference" (about the size and complexity of an airline safety brochure!) is a bit intimidating!
That's about it after 3 days. I do have it installed on a 40A outlet, and have had 2 pots boiling at once (separate sides) without issue. Any questions I'd be glad to comment on. It's a beautiful stove and for now I'm glad to have bought it!
Ohhhh THANK YOU for posting this review!!! We are about 30 days from the completion of our new home and I also ordered this range and am anxious to try out all of the features for myself!!! Did you have any installation issues that I should be aware of??
Nice review, we shall designate you as "Christine Columbus"
(Sorry if you are a "Christopher)(LOL).
You are certainly in the "Explorer Category" as we have seen few reviews on actual induction ranges (maybe 2 or 3")?
Your review will be appreciated (I'm sure), by anyone comtemplating an Induction range.
Ohhhh THANK YOU for posting this review!!! We are about 30 days from the completion of our new home and I also ordered this range and am anxious to try out all of the features for myself!!! Did you have any installation issues that I should be aware of??
I do like to look at this induction range, but have read quite a few bad reviews about it. Even on Amazon.com someone has posted pictures of the plastic parts separating on the front under the control pad. I wasn't sure if other people were having the same problem.
Here is a link that might be useful: [http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B0039UX1P4/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0(http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B0039UX1P4/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0)
fauguy: Yes, I do have the separating issue as well. It's minimal, but probably is 1/8-1/4" at each side. It's symmetrical, and to be honest it doesn't bother me too much at this point (I said I wasn't picky, and am desperately trying to keep the big picture relevant and not sweat the small stuff). I read that amazon review, it seemed like they said the stove "dropped." I'm not noticing any change in my gap, just a gap. I wonder if they installed it too low (many warnings to not let the cooktop be supported by the counter... that might put pressure upward on it???)
janythd: Pretty easy to install... just levelling with front and back legs and back wheels. I did leave the back legs on (they say to remove them after levelled (?) and haven't installed the anti-tip yet. My quartz fabricator took the specs from the website, however the back piece of quartz (behind the range, between my 2 counters, almost like a bridge) was cut ~3/4" too deep. So I have to get that fixed.
dodge: Thanks! That's why I wanted to put this info out there, I couldn't find much when I was purchasing.
I also wanted to mention the bottom oven heat is pretty close to the floor. I have hardwood, and even pulling out the bottom oven drawer made the floor very hot. That makes me a bit nervous. As much as I've highlighted the little negatives I want to still stress I really like the range... the look and the functioning for what I want to do with it.
Did you set the element to "power boost" to boil the water? I timed mine awhile back and I know I can boil more than a 1L in 3 minutes. I believe it was 1.5L in 2:30 but I can time it again sometime this week to check for sure. Mine is also hooked up to 50A though (might matter with power boost?).
The reason the glass was hot is that the pan warms it up. They usually put a warning about this in the manuals. I don't have Elux, but my cooktop shows an H or h when the element is hot to warn you away from burning yourself.
The half pan chocolate thing is surely an illustration, but try putting a very small pot off center and heating it. At a certain point warmth will spread to the glass next to the pot, but it won't get too hot to touch in the same way as the glass under the pot does.
I've got a 40A range circuit, and I'm thinking that might affect boiling times...
Using power-boost each time, I boiled 1 liter water, from ~63F to a roiling boil, using three hobs on my EW30IS66JSA.
Moving counter-clockwise from smallest (RR) to second-largest (LF), times were 4:00, 2:45, and 2:50 (min:sec) on these three hobs. [I used a small Ikea Favorit, a Marcus, and a larger Ikea Favorit pan/pot, respectively, so each pot approximately covered the larger circle of its hob.]
Having a 40A or 50A breaker will not affect the power available to the burners until you reach the 40A and it trips. So if you are experimenting with a single burner, no difference in boiling time.
If you have a long wiring run using the minimum wire size for a 40A circuit, there will be some voltage drop on the wire, which will decrease the maximum power available. Again, this drop will still be small when you are only running a couple of burners at the max, and would only make a few (5?) percent difference at most anyway.
What voltage is your wiring? If 208V rather than 240V, you will have considerably less power available, which would explain a difference.
My new induction range arrived this morning. From the factory, it has the gap on the left side, maybe 2.5mm (0.1"). Middle is tight, and right side has maybe 1mm gap.
I'd like to try it, but my kitchen tear out will not get started for at least 3 weeks, and there are walls/structural/et cetera to do. So shooting for Thanksgiving (I'll try that perfect turkey button).
Re: 40A length of wire... my kitchen is diagonally opposite the house from my electrical box, so it is a long run. I'm fine with 3:00 for 1L (might have been a titch faster, I just checked it every 30s as lid was on).
I've also since checked the self clean feature! Unfortunately forgot one of my pizza pans is the airbake kind (with holes) and cooked a frozen pizza which dripped all over the bottom. By the time I realized, lots of greasy drips had burned on. Now, I won't always be this anal, but I decided to clean it right away. I used the short cleaning cycle and it worked well. Just very smelly (as was my last self cleaning oven). Removing the grills and side grills was pretty easy (one person in a previous review said it was difficult for them to figure out, but I didn't find it so).
I also really love the timer(s). There are 2, which is lovely for timing, say, boiling pasta and chicken fingers in the oven (a staple in our house!). They are really easy/quick to set.
Oven still takes forever to preheat... on "rapid preheat" 0-350 was ~7-8 minutes (time saving of ~2-3 minutes).
I have had the Electrolux induction Range (not the slide-in) since June, and we really really like it. We purchased it through Sears, and initially had error lights coming on (We tried to shove it in closer to the wall after we had already plugged it in and we think that may have disturbed its electronics.) It "self-corrected" after being plugged in for 24 hrs., but we were leery at the time, thinking we might have a "lemon". We called Sears, and without any hesitation, they picked up our range and at the same time delivered a new one. (We did purchase the warranty for $160). We did not turn on the new stove until AFTER we had it into position. We've had no problems.
I second everything Co-Co says about it. . . the induction burners are amazingly responsive . . . JUST like gas (my in-laws have a gas stove)!! The power boost feature boils water amazingly fast.
I do agree that the oven does seem to take longer to pre-heat than my old regular oven, though. But I have not had any trouble with the lower oven burning my baked goods or casseroles, like I read in other posts. I did put a baking stone on top of the wire rack in the bottom oven so maybe that helps. (I have to store the stone anyway, so it works well if I keep it there.)
I also really like the clean lines of this stove . . . burners turn on with a press of the finger. No dials or knobs . . . cleanup is a cinch (I use a damp cloth, if necessary, and quickly dry it with a microfibre cloth).
I also did buy some new pots with magnetic bottoms . . . at Ikea for $69 CDN (a fabulous frying pan, large pot, medium pot, and small pot, all stacking into each other). They work beautifully. No need to buy pricey pots. The bottoms are flat and they clean up extremely well. I'm so impressed I'm going to buy another set on sale this weekend for $39.99 CDN.
I LOVE induction! I can't believe that more people haven't heard of it before.
Oh, and by the way, I was in London, in Harrod's this summer, and saw they had an induction cooktop that was ZONELESS! I could kick myself for not hanging around longer and asking more about it or getting a demonstration. Maybe that will be the next new thing to hit North America?
Happy Thanksgiving to the Canadians on GW! Just wanted to let everyone know I used my perfect turkey button today. Unfortunately the 6+ hr turkey is now cooked, in just over three hours! Not all that unfortunate... but thought I'd let the Americans know a month early to start their turkey's late in this oven! I'm sure it's a convection thing, rather than an E'lux thing, but I've never had convection before so I am a bit surprised! Guess I have time to bake a cake now! ;)
In mine (over a year old, now), the default internal probe temperature is set at 180 degrees, which some believe is a tad overdone. [You can change the default temperature goal (see manual, p. 36; temperature probe section).]
Co-Co, did you leave the final temperature at 180 degrees (F), or did you change that to something like 170-175?
BTW, a whole (unstuffed) turkey weighing 12-16 pounds should take 8-10 min. per pound to cook; 10-15 min. per pound if 16-20 pounds, according to the manual (p. 35).]
Thanks chac_mool. No, I actually didn't change the temperature - I'm not confident enough with turkey to override the experts! I actually was going by the wrapper instructions (Butterball) which said a prestuffed from frozen 12.5 lber would take 6.25 hrs. Not even close! Like I said, I'm sure it's the power of convection cooking, and I'll know for next time (I do really like the probe, tho').
A note on the long preheating time.....my niece has a GE Monogram wall oven and the service people tell her that the oven has to preheat 45 minutes! Something to do with the hidden heating elements. With preheat times like that, there's no impulsively pulling frozen cookie dough out and baking up a batch of cookies! Guess that could be viewed as a good thing by some?
This is my first post so hope I will do it correctly. Many times I have benefitted from this forum with thoughts and ideas - so thank you to all of you for that.
Now I have a question regarding the Electrolux slilde-in range (model# EW30IS65JS): I have ordered this range to be delivered in a couple of weeks, and am now looking for cookware - however I am having a problem finding good pots and pans that fit the large front burners (if less than 7 � inches on bottom where pot touches the burner it will not work on front burners). Does anyone know of any particular cookware brand that have 2 or 3 quarts pots and/or 10 inch pans with bottoms large enough to fit the front burners on the Electrolux slide in range? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am pretty happy with my Electrolux slide in induction range. I have had it for almost a year. I did have to have the control panel replaced, they said it was a short. The range top would just shut off and an error code would come up. E4 maybe?
I love the fast response time on the burners. My old electric coil range took forever to heat up, the one large burner control died and I went probably 4 years with only 3 small burners. I would have to start the pasta water 1/2 hour ahead. When I got this range I was forever starting the pasta water too soon, I would walk away and it would be boiling over! Now starting boiling water is the last thing I do.
I have been enjoying the oven as well. I have used the bottom oven some, it works fine for reheating and small stuff. I used the perfect turkey setting to roast a chicken and it came out nicely. I've used the probe on other cuts of meat and find it very convenient. I haven't mastered using the convection bake setting. I do not find that things cook faster on convection, but I do think they cook evenly. I have also been succesful with two trays of cookies at the same time. I also used the dehydrate setting this weekend on some of the endless tomatoes out of the garden. I've never dehydrated anything so I think I made some mistakes, but the oven worked fine. It really does shut off after 12 hours!
Perhaps because I was so used to my crappy old range, but I don't find the preheat takes too long. I had to make adjustments there as well, because it preheats a touch more quickly than I was used too. When baking I always start the preheat after I have the ingredients assembled, and am ready to start mixing. That usually works for me.
I used the self cleaning function the other day. Probably should have done so earlier. This is actually the first time I have ever used self clean. Seemed to work ok, but I thought the window would be cleaner. All of the burnt on stuff on the bottom was incinerated.
Haven't seen any puddling in front of my Ellectrolux induction range; haven't heard this issue mentioned, either.
I'd say the larger oven takes its time about pre-heating, but this is relative. I'm comparing it to a much smaller Miele speed oven. The fan does run on for quite a while after oven (or hob) use, but its very quiet and not a bother.
There are some quirks about installing the slide-in range; they are discussed in other threads here -- it would be smart to read over those before you install.
I have the E'lux EW30IS6JSA model slide-in induction range.
Turning on any of the cooktop hobs or the upper oven turns on this air circulation, for cooling; air comes out the front, just above the upper oven door, until it stops once the appliance has cooled enough. This is not annoying, at all; its quiet and barely noticeable.
I just wrote about my Electrolux slide in on another thread, but I will repeat it hear, "The warm air that comes out the front vent does not bother me at all." I live in Florida and think it would bother me more than someone living in a more moderate climate - since I am usually doing everything I can to keep cool.
Co-Co, you wrote: "My quartz fabricator took the specs from the website, however the back piece of quartz (behind the range, between my 2 counters, almost like a bridge) was cut ~3/4" too deep. So I have to get that fixed."
was the installation/fabrication issue you have because of incorrect info on the website, or was it installer error? Anyone else have this issue?
I didn't have a problem with that (the back bridge of Corian), but it was measured at the range, not on the web. About 2" of visible corian separates back-splash from back trim, but the countertop is thicker than that (it extends under both).
There are (or were) some weird installation issues with this range, at least when it was new. First, the electrical outlet it plugs in to (behind the range) needs to be in a particular location; at some other places, it obstructs the range from being pushed back far enough toward the back wall. Also, this E'lux assumes it is being surrounded by American-style faced cabinets; if you're using European-style unfaced cabinets, you must allow a border surrounding the range front; otherwise, cabinet doors can hit overhanging surfaces of the range as you pull them in and out.
This range has been out nearly two years now (since March, 2010), I think. Presumably, any published measurement errors ought to have been corrected by now, and many installers will have become accustomed to this unit's peculiarities. But it would be smart to verify you have current documents; also, ask if your installer has actually installed this particular model before, and (if not) let them know of these oddities.
I found this web page very helpful in my decision-making about this range. Thank you!
-what is the smallest diameter pot that will work on the hobs? Will a 5 inch diameter work?
-is the upper oven big enough for a family's cooking & baking needs? I am use to a full-sized oven (5 cubic ft) and wonder if this one is big enough (4 cubic ft)
-is anyone able to get good baking results from the lower oven... no burning on top or bottom... how are the results for cakes & biscuits & pies?
Thanks all!
Figure your pan should be within an inch larger (or smaller) than the outside diameter of the hob its on (so a two inch difference from the hob diameter).
The smallest hob on my E'lux range is 5.5", so you could get a ~3' pan to work on that easy, if you can find a pan that small... The largest hob is 10.5", so a pan on that should have a bottom diameter between 8.5 and 12.5 inches. There are lots of pans within that range.
Find a store that lets you look at this range, if you can. Seeing it in person will answer a lot of questions. I'll let others respond to the baking stuff; a 4.2 cubic inch oven seems huge to me.
Thanks chac mool, those measurements are very helpful. With a 2 inch margin, I can match any pan size I need.
I wonder how successful it would be to set a large cast iron griddle across two hobs--to be able to do a big batch of Sunday morning pancakes in one go!
One more question comes to mind...
My induction hot plate had a fan that cools the unit, and that seems to clear the air of cooking smells at the same time. Do you find this range needs a range hood, or do the built-in fans take care of any heat & cooking odours?
Unless you live out in the boonies where there are no rules, you need a range hood. Even in the middle of nowhere, you want to get a decent hood -- and a good one is much better than a cheap / crappy one. BTW, you can't use downdraft with this range, because the suction would be so far back that it wouldn't do much good.
The fan in the E'lux range blows warm air out the front, just above the main oven door and well below the induction surface, cooling the electronics just below the hobs. Its quiet, and not a bother, but no way does it disturb effluents from the hobs.
After trying a cheap and very cheesy Broan Allure III (on recommendation of my KD, who should have known better), I pulled it out, gave it away, and put in the Broan Elite model (which is adequate). Not sure if my old posts on that fiasco are around here still, or not.
Ha, saw my name and glad this thread is still helpful!
I agree with chac_mool about pan size, hasn't been any problem with anything I've tried so far, even if slightly smaller/bigger than hob.
Oven size is fine, and from what I understand pretty typical for convection where the fan takes up a lot of room. I've cooked 6 pizzas at once (2 on each rack) with no issues (and succeeded in impressing my extended family +++!). For everyday use it's been fine, with a few adjustments. For example, the maximum sheet pan "depth" is 15": I have to turn my 14x16.5 airbake pan sideways which I never had to do in my old (non-convection) Kenmore. I routinely make 4 pizzas: 2 deep dish in 9x13 glass dishes and 2 thin crust on 13" diameter cookie/pizza pans. With one of each on each rack it fits fine. As for height (ie: for roasting birds) I've had no issues, just occasionally have to adjust or remove racks.
I've baked a pie in the lower oven. I'm not normally a pie baker, but it turned out fine. I don't find I use the lower oven a lot: occasionally for big parties where we're heating appi's at different temps. It doesn't self-clean, so you have to be extra careful about spills (recently heated greasy chicken wings in the lower oven and regret the cleaning that followed!).
Also agree the c_m re: ventilation: yes! We have a Broan QP130 (not sure if slightly different labelling in Canada vs. US, however it was $298CAD at Lowes here. Pretty middle of the road price wise, but it's amazingly quiet after our old builder's model. As well, the filters are extremely easy to remove and wash up beautifully in a tall tub D/W.
Co-Co, many very helpful comments, thank you!
Your mention of the pizza pan caused me to go and measure my favourite pizza-baking pan.... it is 16 inches in diameter. Would this fit if I used the non-gliding oven rack (I'm wondering if it might have more accessible depth than the 15 inch depth of the gliding racks, or does it have the same restriction?
Any chance the lower oven would take a larger diameter pizza pan, if the upper oven won't manage it? I would hate to give up that pan!!
I'll check out that range hood, too. Thanks!
Hi Co-Co!
Bree, the convection fan is in a metal housing covering most of the main oven's back wall. It sticks out a little over an inch from the back wall, and that's what makes the depth of that oven only ~15". The gliding racks aren't the problem.
But dimensions inside the lower oven are ~18" deep X ~22" wide, so you're set there. (Get a good pizza stone.)
thanks for clarifying on maximum depth in upper & lower oven, Chac. I am glad to know I can get my pizza pan in the lower oven! Sounds like it would bake it just fine in there with the stone.
I'm guessing I won't be able to bake 3 eight-inch cake pan layers on one rack?? in the upper oven--when using "bake" rather than "convection bake", that is... cakes baked with the "convection bake" setting can be a bit drier in some cases, so I'd rather have them bake the old-fashioned way-- all on one rack with "bake" setting. I realize I could stack the pans but unless it is with the convection fan, it can make for uneven baking. I think I'd need 16 inch depth to do the 3 layers at once, so now I am thinking I might have to re-visit the GEProfile (which does not have some of the nice features Electrolux has, but has a much bigger oven).
I looked to see if the stand-alone Electrolux range had a bigger interior than the slide-in, but they don't list interior dimensions for it, so I suspect it is same as the freestanding range.
Well, I had pretty well made up my mind to go ahead with this one but don't want to be disappointed with the upper oven size. Hohumm....
After thinking about your pizza stone suggestion, I wondered if a pizza stone (or ceramic tiles) might help with multi-rack baking?? Would using a pizza stone in bottom of the upper oven give an even enough heat that I could place 2 cake pans on one shelf and a third on another shelf... and get even enough heat to bake all 3 layers evenly (this would be on regular "bake" setting, not the "convection" setting)?
Any thoughts on this strategy for making a small oven work, for those times when it needs to be bigger??
Sorry for all my tedious questions... I do appreciate your patience in answering so many questions.
Bree, I hoped someone else would / will respond to your questions.
One reason a pizza stone helps with the E'lux lower oven is that the oven has little room to bake stuff much higher than a pizza, and because there were complaints the bottom element may burn stuff directly above it in there. A pizza stone ameliorates that some. No idea if it would help in the upper oven. We don't eat that much cake here...
Thanks, Chaac! I do appreciate your taking time to answer... even if you don't eat much cake. :>) Cakes are our weakness around here!
I saw a note where someone was using both an upper & lower rack laid with quarry tiles to give a nice even heat for baking; the thought was that it evened out the heat, and particularly helped against heat loss when opening oven door. I understand using ceramic for bread & pizza--for a crisp crust--but am dubious about its effect on a cake ...which we usually don't want crisp! :>)
Anyway, I will do some experimenting when I get the beast. If anyone wants info on this, I'll be happy to share my notes.
Initial Review:
I LOVE it! Such a huge leap from a single-burner induction plate to this dream-machine!
Looks great, has a very user-friendly control panel, the controls are responsive, (and the burners can maintain a steady & gentle warming heat, or simmer, or raucous boil), upper oven works very well (have not yet tried the lower oven). I'm looking forward to years of cooking & baking on this!
Thanks for all the help along the way to this decision.
Electrolux slide-in induction range & pizza stone inquiry:
I bought an Old Stone Oven rectangular pizza/baking stone, and now I wonder if it is OK to put this directly on the floor of the oven, or should I instead put it on an oven rack at the bottom of the oven... to leave a good air space between stone contacts and hidden element?
I don't know if it would damage oven's lower element to have this stone sitting directly on it all the time, or not? (The stone has "legs", so there is an air space under the central part of the stone, but not on the sides.) I plan to leave the stone in the oven 100% of the time-- even when not baking directly on the stone.
Reading my E'lux manual, it looks like "the lower oven rack must always be in place when cooking or warming" (pg. 23). That oven comes with its own oven rack, so I'm guessing you want to put the pizza stone on that rack if you can.
Not clear if your stone's legs will get in the way or not. They might fit through the slots in the rack, or maybe you can turn it upside down when its hanging out in that oven.
[BTW, according to Modernist Cuisine at Home, a pizza stone needs about 30 min. to preheat fully to temperature (before you put the pizza on it).]
I was suspicious that Elux advises to use rack on the lower oven to prevent bottom-burning of foods.... but I guess it is better to play it safe; I certainly don't want to cause damage or risk voiding the warranty.
Yup, the legs make it a bit more challenging to get it flat & steady on the oven rack. It would be so much easier to have it sit & sleep on the oven floor(s)! The depth of this stone is 14 inches, which doesn't leave a lot of air space at the front & back of the stone; I hope it doesn't block hot air flow or interfere with the overall bake.
Good to know about the 30-minute pre-heat....thanks!
I am interested in baking other things (besides pizza & bread) on the stone, to see what the difference might be... tea biscuits, for example.
I found the upper oven baked cookies a little less evenly than my old (& larger) oven... but it is still early days in the experimenting process. I haven't yet baked layer cakes in this new oven. :>)
I am very, very happy with this purchase! The induction cooktop is such a treat to use.
I have the E-lux Freestanding induction range and I too love love it! I had one for 10 months and due to water damage we are remodeling and replacing all appliances. Insurance paid for a new one and I like it well enough that I have ordered another one. Yes it takes longer than my old range (that had an exposed lower element) to pre-heat but I deal with it. I always use the rapid pre-heat setting and so its not too bad. I did remove one of the racks and stored it. No way to I ever need all those racks at once and I would rather have the room.
When I first got it I used the lower oven a few times, but because you can't do rapid pre-heat with the lower, I gradually stopped using it. I guess its nice to have the second oven if necessary, but I use the larger oven for the primary one.
Have not used the dehydration feature, but have used the bread proofing and it was great!
Have not used the perfect turkey feature because I always bake them in a bag - 4 hours for a 20-lb turkey. I doubt if the Perfect Turkey setting can beat that.
As far as the induction top - its the best thing I ever had! I absolutely love it. Have Emeril cookware (made by All-clad but cheaper) and some cast iron. When using a heavy cast iron dutch oven I sometimes put a paper towel or parchment paper beneath the pot so that I don't scratch the cooktop. I have also covered the cooktop with paper towels when frying bacon to make clean-up easier. Never have to worry about it catching fire. awesome.
I would've like the slide-in but after reading all the complaints about this plastic part separating in front, I'm tickled to death with my free-standing.
Mine is on a 50-A circuit which I thought was minimum required??
I can't wait until our remodel is done and to get moved back in! Been living in my father-in-law's house next door and dealing with coils again so burning stuff :(
Mountainnergirl "Have not used the perfect turkey feature because I always bake them in a bag - 4 hours for a 20-lb turkey. I doubt if the Perfect Turkey setting can beat that. "
I scoffed at the perfect turkey button when the salesperson told me about it because really it's not that hard to roast a turkey but I had to try it out. It made the best turkey I had ever made. I've made 5-6 since then (I've had my stove a year and half). Today I made a 22 pounder (the biggest I've ever made), it was done in less than 2 1/2 hours. I was shocked that it could cook that fast but the turkey was completely cooked, tender, juicy and easy to get off the bones. So try it without the bag once and see what you think of it. I was very pleasantly surprised.
Wow 2 and 1/2 hours?? well you can bet I'll try that next time. you better be right or I will have some hungry people pounding their forks on the table while waitig (JK!)
I just got hooked on those bags because the turkeys are always so moist I guess because its actually sitting there in its broth vs on a rack that sits and inch off bottom of roasting pan.
I wanted to say that I used the convection once baking cookies and cookies weren't good. flat and hard BUT using convection with a meatloaf was awesome! Perfectly brown/crusty on outside with the inside being moist, not dried out at all. But that may be the case with all convection ovens - I don't know because this is my first.
about the long pre-heat - sometimes might be a pain, but having the hidden element is great. No lifting element up to wipe up something spilled in the bottom. No worrying about something spilling directly on it and stinking the house up.
I bought the range for the induction cooktop - not for convection oven. I would still love the range if it didn't have the convection oven.
Thanks for your feedback mountaineergirl!
Like you, I suspect convection is best-suited to meat; that's where it will shine. While it may be fine to do traditional baking with convection, it does produce different results...I tried a batch of cookies on convection and some of the same batch on regular bake; I found I preferred those baked without the convection setting. However, it is early days and I am still learning about this setting on this new range!
I have the slide-in and luckily found no problems (so far!!) with that separating at the top that others have mentioned; I really think careful installation is key ... you can't have any weight from the stove pulling on the countertop.
What a GREAT thread this is. Thank you, Co-Co, for starting it, and to all of you who have continued to post such helpful information over the past year+. I hope you will keep it coming for the rest of us.
It is frustrating how few induction ranges are available in the US. After much study, I thought I'd settled on this one. But in hearing about the fit issues, I think it won't fit my granite cut-out. Currently have a KitchenAid smooth-top slide-in. E-lux's diagram shows this range is 28 5/16 from the cooktop's back lip to front lip/oven handle. That's going to stick out into my kitchen another inch and a half beyond what we currently have.
Did most of you have your counters cut to the stove? My kitchen guy says slide-ins are all the same, and that it WILL fit. I begin to wonder.
I did not cut the notch into my counter (the inch or so at the front that E'lux recommends) as I thought if/when I ever change out the range a new one might not fit. Here is how far mine sticks out... some may say it's horrible, but honestly I never notice it being weird and the functionality of the cooktop is so worth it:
Here is a link that might be useful: link to properly notched e'lux range
Thank you, Bree2 and Co-Co. Co-Co, your stove installation looks great; better than my current KitchenAid which is out a little further than it should be. If I could get mine that far back, I'd be happy.
I think the problem is -- and has been -- my granite. The diagram from E-lux seems to recommend 1 1/8 inch but mine are 1 1/2 which must be beyond standard. At some point, the stove is going to "catch" on the granite, end of discussion. It can't go back any further from that. It will always stick out 1 1/2 inch, plus the area beyond the "catch" spots on the stove, right?
So, if Co-Co's overhang is, say 1 1/8, then best case scenario for me is that mine will stick out just like hers (which looks perfect to me) PLUS another 3/8 of an inch? I nearly failed math in HS so somebody help me out here . . . ;-)
I am kind of heartsick. I woke up at 2 AM thinking about it. (I know, First World Problems, right?) Still, I thought I had a plan . . . I guess I could have it delivered now, and if it didn't fit, have them take it away again?
Co-Co, could you so kindly tell me what your overhang is? And the actual depth, edge to edge of the cooktop? And back edge of cooktop to the edge of your granite? If you have time. I realize you didn't start this thread meaning to become the Dear Abby of range installation, so thanks.
No problem! My set up is a bit different; I designed my kitchen to have spacers beside the range, as my doors/drawers are full overlay and the specs recommend 1" IIRC between the range and functional openings. My spacers came as 1.5" wide , and installer was going to rip them down to 1" but since I had the room we left them at 1.5" wide.
-overhang from the spacer depth is 1.5", however from the door/drawer fronts is actually ~5/8"
-actual depth of cooktop is 27-27.5" (it bows out a bit in the middle)
-my cabs are pulled out on this wall, so my countertop is 29"d making for a 5.5" bridge behind the rangetop
-back edge of the cooktop to the edge of my quartz is 23.5"
Aren't you glad Canadians understand inches as well as metric?! :) Took some pics, hope these help:
Co-Co, you are a peach. So, looks like your spacers are flush with the cabinet fronts, and you have a countertop overhang across there of 1.5. (Not the drawer/door fronts, I realize) So, that's what I have.
If I can get mine back as far as yours, I will be happy. Again, thanks to all for this thread. There being so few slide in inductions available here in the US, and so few people owning them, this information is invaluable.
Thanks again.
We did a kitchen re-model and had this Induction range installed in October. After a couple months, I have to echo some of the comments here, plus here are my impressions so far, hope they are helpful if you are looking at this unit:
1. Spend some time with the manual, there is a lot to understand about using this range. Once you get through it, it seems pretty intuitive- but at first it is complex.
2. Love the cooktop! I started a pound of ground beef to brown in a skillet in High (not boost) setting, it was almost instantly sizzling. Same thing with going from a boil to a simmer, it is an instant response. I cooked with gas a bunch of years ago, I think induction is even more responsive.
3. Cleanup is pretty quick, damp cloth or a spray of all purpose cleaner that is ok for cooktops and it looks like new.
4. The oven seems to take longer to warm to temp, I have used the rapid pre-heat feature as well. The temp seems accurate and baking three sheets of cookies at the same time I got consistent results regardless of shelf or position. I've used the convection part for some baking, no real +/- for me so far.
5. Used the broiler this weekend for the first time. It worked fine, but after the cooling fan (same as what cools the cooktop and range I think) was pretty noisy. I have not heard this noise otherwise. Will try it again and if it occurs, will call for service.
6. Last point, out countertop guys did notch the quartz as the specs stated, and the range does slide in a bit more.
Bottom line - if I had to do it over, I would buy this pricey but great range in a heartbeat. We'll see how long term reliability works out, but it is fun to cook on.
I have had this range for over a month now and love it. Few questions to see if you all have the same experience.
1) Using two burners on the same side, the unit seems to fluctuate between the two. Sounds like really fast on / off. Still cooks fine, just made some new noises I was not used to.
2) for the oven, with in Bake mode, the internal fan still kicks on. I assumed the internal fan was only for convection mode.
Does it work the same on your units? Just making sure mine is not broken.
Thank you,
When you use two hobs on the same side, power sharing comes on (see the manual, pg. 22). When power sharing happens (e.g., when using both left or both right hobs on higher settings), the last-selected hob will cook at the power setting you selected and the other hob on that side may decrease (e.g., to 5 or to 9, if you set it higher than that).
Its easy to use hobs on opposite sides, since the two rear hobs are similar and smaller than the two front hobs. [You can use both hobs on a side at lower settings without kicking power sharing on, and front hobs draw more power on high then either (smaller) rear hob.] Does it seem like these are the noises you're hearing?
When you turn on the larger oven in Bake mode, that oven's fan comes on to quickly preheat the oven. You're supposed to preheat before using the oven (see the manual, pg. 24).
I haven't noticed when the fan comes on during preheating & baking, but I have noticed "new" noises coming from pots placed on the one burner I use most often... I use the small one on the right, at the rear, numerous times a day to boil water for tea. The other burners have not had such a noticeable effect on my pots (yet!).
Whereas the pots made almost no noise at first, now they emit squeaks & pops. It is the pot & its contents (not the burner, itself) that produce the noises.
I wondered if it had anything to do with my using the "power boil" setting so frequently on this one burner... could the high setting affect something in the metal of the pot??
I'll let you know if I find out it is anything more serious.
For those who might like to sit near the front of this stove, be forewarned that the cooling fan(s) blow quite cool air out the front of the range when any of the burners are in use; so you feel like you are sitting in front of a very windy doorway!
Bree, what sort of pots are making these noises? If you move the pot to the left rear hob, does the noise stop?
Is there water between that hob and the pot when you hear these squeaks and pops? Trapped water can make these sounds, which will be louder with higher power settings (like boost).
"Hi" chac mool.... The noise from a splash of water *underneath* the pot is a bit different than these noises. And, the noises can still occur when using a burner on the left side & a burner on the right side (no sharing). I suspect it is just the sounds of metal expanding & contracting... reacting to the high heat setting. I just wanted to reassure Didjit that there are others of us "hearing things". ;>)
I haven't noticed noises coming from the other burners probably because I rarely use those burners to boil a small pot of water... and that is the time I'm most likely to notice pot noises... not when cooking a mixture of foods that sizzle & simmer. I'd never hear these subtle noises over those more complex cooking sounds!
I'll have to pay more attention to see what noises occur when.
We have the freestanding version of this oven.We've had it for 2 weeks now and today was the first visit of the repairman. We anticipate more... good thing we bought the extended warranty...
Problems are all related to the oven - the induction works fine. But the oven does not...
1) Regular preheat indicates oven is at temperature - checking with an oven thermomoeter says it is 25 to 30 degrees lower than what it was set at.
2) Rapid preheat is much worse - we set it to 425 and the rapid preheat brought it to 300 then turned off, regular preheat continued - never got to 425.
3) Oven does not maintain a constant heat - will fluctuate 25 to 50 degrees down...
4) Oven does not seem to cool down - takes forever to 'lose' heat. We turned it off, went out for an hour, came back and it was still at 200 - but it was off. I opened the door wide open and it dropped to 80 so I closed it and then it went back up!! Is it possible that the insulation is that good that it does not lose heat??
Repairman is ordering various circuit boards for us. I am not happy and would not recommend. The repairman said it was a good thing we had an extended warranty...
How's that for making you feel good about the purchase?
Hope others have better luck...
Shannon (in Canada).
It certainly sounds like you got the lemon on the production line! I've had this happen with a brand new refrigerator and had to replace electronics within days of its arrival, but it ran well thereafter.
My Electrolux slide-in range's oven does not fluctuate in temperature and has performed very well (so far!). I've tested it against a reliable stand alone oven thermometer, and it runs a consistent 10 degrees hotter; if this ever becomes a problem, I'll just adjust the oven's default setting.
The oven does stay warm after a baking session, but then again so did my other self-cleaning oven... can't say it that is due to the extra insulation they use in a self-cleaning oven or not.
I do wish I could turn the oven light off when having the oven door open to release the heat after a baking session; I'd like to make use of that heat in my kitchen on cool days --without burning out the oven lightbulbs prematurely!
Has anyone found that after a few months of use (on the Electrolux slide-in range) a thin line of light appears on the control deck?
Just to the right of the upper & lower oven icons, a thin line of white light runs (straight from top to bottom) alongside the icons... this isn't apparent when the range is not in use; it is only when the stove or oven is in use, or when you wave your hand over the deck.
It has only appeared this week, and seems content to stay! Do we know what it is or why it shows up now & not before?
Hi Bree,
I just looked at mine. To the right of the upper and lower oven icons, and just left of the two timer on-off lights, is a recessed rectangle with oven temp., clock, and timer digital displays.
Looking closely at mine now, I do see light escaping along the left and right sides of this rectangular digital display. Because the oven icons are brighter, this stray light is a little stronger on the left than on the right. Obviously, this only appears when the wave tough display is on. I didn't notice this before, even when cooking stuff last night, so its very subtle (on my range).
If the slightly recessed digital (temp & time) display has shifted slightly to the right for some reason, you may see more light on that side. As for why, the only thing I can think of is that you really shouldn't pick up your range and shake it so much, Bree. Don't do that.
Well, that's no fun if I can't pick it up and shake it! ;>)
I've attached a screenshot to show where the line is, and it sounds to me like it is much more visible on my range than on yours... enough that it shows up quite clearly, and only on the one side of that rectangle. I can't actually see that rectangle on mine, just the pronounced line of light on its left side.
Let's hope this isn't a sign of anything out of whack with the control panel.
This post was edited by Bree2 on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 16:28
I don't see a specific response to your post, so I'll chime in and maybe somebody with more direct experience can correct any errors.
1) Regular preheat:
Preheat indicators on most ovens are way off. Many comments here and elsewhere (such as Modernist Cusine) say that the pre-heat signals are way off. Most oven temp sensors are up near the top of the chamber and only measure the oven air. They do not account for the heating the walls, floor, etc. of the chamber, all of which play a big role in oven cooking. Often, the recommendation is to give the oven 20 minutes beyond the pre-heat signal.
So, not sure if anything is wrong on this item.
2) Rapid preheat
This definitely sounds like something is askew. Does sound like a bad controller board.
3) Oven does not maintain a constant heat - will fluctuate 25 to 50 degrees down...
Depending on when and where you are measuring, this may or may not be a defect. Does the temp go up above the set point as well as below or does it only go down?
All ovens cycle and they do more of it at the start of baking. Set a temp and the oven elements heat up. When they reach a certain point, the sensor signals and the elements shut off. (Maybe the preheat signal dings, too.) The temp settles a bit and when it goes low enough (which may be 25F on some stoves and as much as 50F lower on others) then the elements come on again and heat up. It takes a number of cycles for this to even out and the temperature swings to reduce.
In my experience, many ovens do a decent job of maintaining a pretty even temperature once they are fully preheated but fluctuate a lot before they get there.
Convection settings can complicate this. Many convection ovens are now programmed to automatically drop the baking temp by 25F. If you've got convection running and have not switched off the "auto adjust" then your temps can seem pretty weird.
But to me, it seems that if you are seeing a 25F or 50F downward swing right in the middle, and it only goes down, something sounds amiss with the controllers or the sensor or both. Again, if warranty service is replacing the boards, that is probably a good thing.
4) Oven does not seem to cool down
This can be a common complaint with newer ovens being better insulated than ovens used to be.
But, a defective board might be causing a problem, so you should see how things go after the boards get replaced. A friend off mine told me of a similar problem with a convection oven in her GE stove. Except that sometimes the oven would be very warm when it had not been used for hours. Turned out that something had gone wrong with the oven controller board. It was sort of randomly switching on the convection element (the third element in the back, the one around the convection fan). Of course, it "should not" and "could not" have been doing that but replacing the board ended the problem.
I've had this range for about 3 weeks.
A few observations:
Pre-heat is indeed slow, and the lower oven is even slower! Not much use for that other than Thanksgiving. I wasn't expecting much from it anyway.
The oven light seems to turn on both ovens. Too bad I'm mostly using the lower drawer for storage and I get to see the "mess" down there instead of having the option to only light one oven. (Maybe there is a way and I haven't learned yet?)
The oven is a tad less deep than my old drop in, due to the convection fan. Large pans still fit, it's just tighter.
Smaller hobs are in the back, and I would love a small one in the front. I didn't think I would notice so much, but I do.
Sometimes it takes awhile for the hob to recognize a pan and allow me to turn it on. Was so used to instant on!
Learned I had to clean it 1/4 of the cooktop at a time, otherwise the cleaner dries too quickly and is a pain to get off.
Hi Julie,
The lower oven is fine for warming plates; that's mostly what I use it for. You're wise to not expect much from the lower oven. People who expect a lot from that lower oven tend to be disappointed.
You're right that "the oven light seems to turn on both ovens." I never noticed, because I never put my head close enough to the floor to see the light in the lower oven before. You need to be at the height of a squirrel to look in there.
Can you say which pans (and/or hobs?) aren't recognized quickly, or if this problem is more likely when a pan doesn't closely match the hob size? I haven't noticed this with my pans (from Ikea, Marcus, Scan Pan, Le Creuset, and Staub), and the E'lux seems (to me) relatively tolerant when pans differ from the hob size.
Since you've only had your range a few weeks, this could be either learning to use your range or a problem from the factory. If its a range issue, it may be good to contact E'lux customer support about the pan recognition problem, so there is a clear report of problems early on.
I use Cerama Bryte only occasionally, about a quarter of the cooktop at a time. More often I just wipe stuff up with damp paper towels, though.
I guess I noticed the oven light because I can sit on the other side of the peninsula (my work location) and gaze into the oven! But without a line of sight, it's hard to see. In any other kitchen, it might not be an issue. And it's not an issue per se, just sorta weird.
As for pan recognition, I've experienced it with a Le Creuset (2.5 qt, maybe?) and an All Clad 1.5 qt on the back burners. Like we both theorized, it's most likely due to my learning curve. I'll keep using it. I'm sure it's just a fraction of a second.
Don't take my post of negativity to be that I don't love it, I do, I do, I do! The cook top is quite responsive- it's great to have the control over the cooking and the quick heating. The racks are wonderful in the oven, and I love having convection and reasonably even baking.
Confidential to bread bakers: The oven also does great job at retaining steam while baking- important for the artisan breads that I make. I had to back away the first time I opened the door 15 minutes after I put a cup of water in a hot pan with the oven at 475 degrees to avoid a steam burn because of the fan that runs even on non-convection....and that was good! So much better than some modern electrics I've used that do a terrible job with steam retention and turn out terrible crust. I know now to put the steam pan on the lowest rack away from the fan.
Today, I noticed the rubber flange (that runs around the perimeter of the control panel) has crept away ever so slightly from its housing on the front right corner of the panel. It isn't a big deal, but it does allow tiny crumbs to fall in the small crack where that rubber ring has shrunk away from the stainless steel corner.
The slight opening is only in the corner, not anywhere else along the length of the flange, and the other 3 corners are still sitting tight to the st. steel... although the one on the left front looks like it may not be quite as tight to the steel as the others.
Has anyone else noticed movement in the rubber flange?
Why doesn't the cooling fan run when the lower oven is on?
The cooling fan runs when the upper oven is on and when the burners on the stove-top are on, but it does not run when the lower oven is on. Why is that?
I'm not complaining, I'm just curious. I do appreciate the complete quiet when the lower oven is on... not a sound is emitted... vs. the noise of the cooling fan when anything else is turned on! (There is also no chilly draft coming out the front of the oven when only the lower oven is running.)
Thanks in advance for the answer to my question.
Why doesn't the cooling fan run when the lower oven is on?
The cooling fan runs when the upper oven is on and when the burners on the stove-top are on, but it does not run when the lower oven is on. Why is that?
I'm not complaining, I'm just curious. I do appreciate the complete quiet when the lower oven is on... not a sound is emitted... vs. the noise of the cooling fan when anything else is turned on! (There is also no chilly draft coming out the front of the oven when only the lower oven is running.)
Thanks in advance for the answer to my question.
I have an old Bialetti Moka pot (for espresso) that is not magnetic, but it works just fine when sitting on an iron (Lodge) skillet for the 5 or so minutes it takes to produce the espresso.
It seems to me the iron pan can take the heat just fine-- after all, it can be oven-cured for a non-stick finish at a much higher heat. I'm guessing it is the same as using one of those relatively expensive magnetic "plates" that allow use of non-induction pots on induction. Any thought as to whether using an iron skillet for this purpose is a good or bad idea?
Not a problem. Only things to watch are:
(a) you probably are not cranking the heat to full boost and leaving there it there with the CI surface smoking, but the inexperienced will need to know that the smoke will be the seasoning burning off. A lesser setting should be suficient to boil the Moka pot without requiring you to re-season your CI whenever you have made coffee.
(b) Very old CI pans (say an antique Wagner or Griswold that you inherited or that you found at a garage sale), may have inclusions or cracks that could split the pan if it is brought to very high heat too quickly.. This is something that can happen with any high-power gas, electric or induction burners, as was discussed in a thread here a a couple of years ago (if somebody wants to search for it, I remember it being in the summer of 2012.).
For somebody who needs to use larger non-magnetic pans, too, a CI skillet's high sides may be a hinderance. Besides the expensive "adapter disks" that Bree mentioned, you also could look at Lodge's larger and less expensive 10.5-inch diameter pancake griddle (about $20) or the 14" pizza pan (about $30). Besides being much less expensive than the adapter disks, the Lodge pans will have other uses when not being employed as a hot plate. (Cooks Illustrated recently reported favorably on using the pizza pan rather than a pizza stone.)
Thank you for the reassuring information!
You are quite right, I am using a mid-level heat on the right front hob (the most powerful hob)... no higher than a 6.5 setting...and using a 9 or 10-inch round pancake griddle under the moka pot; no smoking occurs and the pan doesn't seem to mind. I do take the griddle off the burner right after the espresso is ready (with a protective mitt!) to avoid trapping high heat between the griddle & the hob surface... just in case that might not be good (but it probably doesn't hurt it).
Now, I'll have to try the same griddle as a pizza "stone"--a great suggestion, by the way--it should produce an excellent crust... a multi-functioning pan indeed! :>)
I have to stand well back from this oven when I open the door--the heat & steam released are quite intense!
There is a lot more steam & moisture released from this oven than with any other oven I have used. I have trouble with roasted vegetables crisping/drying out enough (soggier results than I'd like).
It doesn't have a negative effect on cakes & cookies, but it certainly does for high-heat roasting of potatoes wedges or tomatoes, cauliflower, etc.
Has anyone else found this a problem?
I wonder if using the convection setting all the time would solve this? I'm not very familiar with the convection option, so don't know if it maintains a drier oven environment or not... any thoughts on this?
We love this range.... & would buy it again!
As with every new appliance, there are new things to become familiar with.... the induction cooktop is very straight-forward (and we had used an induction plate prior to buying this range, so induction wasn't a new concept to us), but the oven seems to maintain more humidity than my old one, but I have learned to use convection more since I last posted... so for things that i want a drier or crisper result, I use the convection option, or open the door a bit to let the extra moisture/steam out. I haven't found it takes noticeably longer to preheat than my old self-cleaning oven, but I see others have complained of this.
The oven interior is slightly smaller than my old one, but I've gotten used to that, too, now.
I recently used the bread-proof setting which worked like a charm.
If I had a wish list, I would put a small hob at the front, since I use the small hobs a lot, and if you are stirring or tending the pot, it is nice not to have to reach back quite so far for an extended period of time.
There weren't many choices available in my region when I bought this range. It was either this one or a GE cafe induction range. I'm sure there are more to choose from now, but I'm better with fewer choices, otherwise I'd never be able to make up my mind!
Wait for the big sales if you can... stores sells these for $1000 - $1500 off the regular price, & I've seen these big appliance sales more than once each year.
2 years in for mine, no major issues with the unit itself, no service calls have been required. I even use the self clean function about twice a year, albeit for the 2 hour "light" soil setting. Gasp!
My one complaint is the thermometer probe is non-functional. I was able to use it once for a turkey. Now, when I attempt to use it, it hits the the target temperature within 5 minutes of starting the cook; obviously the meat isn't done that fast. Then it turns off the oven. It was a surprise on Thanksgiving to realize I hadn't been cooking for a half hour. This to me is a minor function of the entire unit and I'm willing to let it slide.
Thanks for your feedback. My husband is the cook and he ordered it without me researching it. I finally googled it and i was shocked by all the bad reviews. i so hope i don't have that experience, won't be installed until around march, ill let y'all know!


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Forsakia Overview
Forsakia is an easily accessible MMORPG that plays right on your web browser. The game has turn based combat through random encounters on maps outside of the towns. Players can go into combat with pets that they catch and train. The game also supports a resource gathering and crafting system along with instanced player housing. Forsakia has a high experience rate, and allows auto-navigation, and auto-combat to speed up gameplay. Forskia is very similar to Neverland Online, Pet Forest, and many other browser based MMORPGs with similar graphics and gameplay elements.
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Tom Petty Issues Statement For Early End To LA Gig
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers posted a group message on TomPetty.com trying to shed light on the mess which forced their June 8th concert at L.A.'s Fonda Theatre to be shut down by fire marshals 90 minutes into the show due to overcrowding. Petty told the crowd that marshals insisted that 100 people would need to leave the venue or move to the balcony -- or else the band would be forced to cut their show short by 45 minutes. Petty was ultimately forced to end the show early to catcalls and boos from his usual die-hard audience.
Billboard reported that Petty told the crowd at the Fonda the following night (Sunday, June 9th) "We had to quit a little early last night. I don't like to assign blame, but it wasn't me. I'm absolutely sure we're going to work this out. If I have to pay it myself, everyone will be reimbursed."
Statement From Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers Regarding Last Night's Early Conclusion To The Concert At The Fonda Theatre In Los Angeles - via TomPetty.com:
First and foremost, the safety of our fans is our primary concern and the most important consideration. To those fans who attended last night's show at the Fonda Theatre, we are as frustrated as you are!
While we are still investigating exactly what happened we do know the following as of right now:
1. The number of tickets sold was NOT above the legal capacity of the building. The venue and Ticketmaster documentation confirms this.
2. The Fire Marshal decided that the number of people on the floor (as opposed to on the upstairs balcony or terrace) was unsafe.
Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers and our representatives rely on the concert promoter and venue representatives to give us an accurate breakdown of the legal capacity for every part of the building and to provide security and other staff to enforce this.
We are still investigating all details of last night's situation and will keep you informed.
The shows at the Fonda tonight and Tuesday will go ahead as planned and we are working with the venue, the promoter and the Fire Marshal to ensure that this problem will not repeat itself.
We thank you for your support.
- Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers
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Journey May Be Done Recording New Music
Friday, March 8, 2013
Journey's recording days might be a thing of the past. Due to shifting audiences and the general nature of the music business, keyboardist Jonathan Cain thinks that maybe the band is done releasing new music. Journey's last studio album, Eclipse, was released in May 2011. The Wal Mart exclusive debuted on the Billboard 200 album chart at Number 13 -- eight spots lower than the band's previous album, 2008's Revelation -- which also went on to hit Number One on Billboard's Top Independent Albums chart.
Jonathan Cain told us that the pressing need for new Journey music has seemed to fade: "Y'know, we're not convinced the market will bear another CD from us, y'know? And it's so much work to make one. Y'know, maybe we get a soundtrack shot with a movie. And the last album we made was a departure. It was Neil (Schon's) 'I wanna do one this way once' -- and so we did. Y'know we did a heavy, rock n' roll record. And it kinda wasn't received very well here in the States and they kinda liked it in Europe and that's kinda what I thought was gonna happen and it barely sold 100,000 (copies)."
Cain went on to explain that after Eclipse failed to score with both old fans and new converts, the entire band has had to pause and take stock of where they're at creatively: "After all that time and money, y'know, what are we doing here, y'know? So, we have a great catalogue here, right now to play. We got a lot of songs that we're not even playing. So, we're like, 'What's the point of makin' a new CD right now?' Y'know, if anything, we'll make an EP."
Journey will next appear on Thursday (March 7th) with Deep Purple in Perth, Australia.
Journey North American tour dates (subject to change):
July 26 - London, ON - Rock The Park Festival at Harris Park
August 16 - Lampe, MO - Black Oak Mountain Amphitheater
September 1 - Snowmass, CO - Jazz Aspen Snowmass at Snowmass Town Park
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Green Granite Inn: The North Conway Hotel for Moose
North Conway is well known as a destination for anyone who loves the great outdoors. With the beautiful White Mountains, the nearby Saco River, and plenty of places to bike, hike, ski, and ATV, there's so much to see and do. Many visitors have delighted in sightings of New Hampshire's wildlife populations, including the occasional bear and plenty of moose. Anyone who has stayed at the Green Granite knows how we love the local moose, from the moose in our lobby to the moose in our logo.
Moose have not always had a happy story in North Conway. When the area was first settled, hunters brought the moose population down to just 13 by 1898. Fortunately, the area's forests were preserved and state and federal organizations that regulated fish, game, and natural parks brought the area's wildlife populations back into balance. Today there are many moose throughout New Hampshire's beautiful forests.
The New Hampshire Fish and Game Department advises any tourists hoping for a moose sighting should try Route 3 north of Pittsburg to the Canadian border; Route16 north of Milan to the Maine Border; Route 26 east of Dixville Notch to the Maine Border; Route 112 from Lincoln east to the Bear Notch Road; Route 110 north of Berlin to Rte 110A. Or you can simply take to the woods at dusk from May-October and hope for good luck while you enjoy the White Mountains many other magnificent sights.
Kayakers have also had good luck spotting moose, as moose often feed on plants that row near ponds and lakes in the early morning and at sunset. If you are already interested in exploring New Hampshire's waterways or are excited for some fishing, you just might see a moose in the bargain. There are also some popular moose tours north and east of the Green Granite, such as the popular Gorham Moose Tours near Moose Brook State Park and Pemi Valley Moose Tours in Franconia Notch State Park.
One thing is for sure, if you are looking for a magical wildlife experience, Green Granite Inn is the perfect North Conway Hotel, putting you right on the edge of some of the best state parks in New Hampshire. To prepare for your trek into moose country, pick up supplies at L.L. Bean store and grab a hearty breakfast at Peach's Restaurant or Priscilla's. Both have big excellent breakfasts and a homey, welcoming atmosphere. When you are weary from the woods and ready to relax, you can return to civilization and enjoy North Conway's many fine restaurants, shops, and more, as well as the Green Granite Inn's comfy beds. We're sure that our moose in the lobby would love to hear all about your adventures!


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quote:Brent Zwerneman ?@BrentZwerneman Manziel told us he's taking all online classes this semester. #mysa
quote: Brent Zwerneman ?@BrentZwerneman Manziel said A&M AD, family, compliance etc. all sat down in the past few days to make sure they 'were all on the same page'
quote:This has been discussed before.
quote:attention whore
quote:But I've got an ever-increasing feeling this kid is going to frick up big time.
quote:And like I said that time, if Cam can come to school and take real classes like an actual student, that acne ridden attention whore can too.
quote:My God. When this exact thing was said about Newton, you Wariggles would go into meltdown mode.
quote:WTF are you talking about?


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She's a flower-woman in fabric petals, a subtle mix of natural and artificial. Discover the images from the new campaign starring the Dior woman as seen by Raf Simons for spring-summer 2014.
Standing proud under an azure sky, her beauty blooms amid a lush backdrop of exotic vegetation. In this new campaign, shot by the photographer Willy Vanderperre, the Dior woman blossoms like a new kind of flower. Be she sensual and romantic among the plants, or seductive and determined as she poses on scaffolding, her head in the clouds, her elegance is imbued with paradoxes. Is she real, this young woman with an arresting allure? To what tribe does she belong, this ethereal woman of the forest? Garlanded with jewel-like colored glass wisteria, draped with floral prints, her feet delicately crisscrossed with leather lianas, a bag in a precious skin on her arm, she is sophisticated yet resolutely spontaneous; her style a subtle balance between the natural and the most luxurious artifice.


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Kichler Chandeliers
Westside Wholesale online shop offers a really wide range of the Kichler product lines including amazing chandeliers of high quality and exceptional aesthetic looks.
Kichler is globally known manufacturer of various lighting products for residential applications of all the kinds.
At Westside wholesale we stock numerous variations of chandeliers by Kichler that will add sophisticated charm and beauty to every house. The product line that we offer is able to suit any décor and inside design as the chandeliers we present come in most popular finish colors such as carre bronze, terrene bronze, brushed nickel, olde brick, olde bronze and many other colors.
Along with finish color our consumers can choose the appropriate style of a chandelier, they designed in European, transitional, soft contemporary, casual lifestyle. The variations are so numerous that all the needs of any client can be fully satisfied.
The chandeliers we stock come with different quantity of bulbs depending on the model. This provides amazing illumination and adds a charming style to any home inside design.
We at Westside Wholesale give detailed information on each chandelier for easy and quick choice. We provide information about fixture dimensions (width, height and weight), the number of bulbs, style and shipping weight. We offer the products we stock with no shipping costs and at affordable prices.
The chandeliers by Kichler come are CULP listed for enhanced safety. The bulbs are not included and are sold separately.
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How to select Chandeliers
A chandelier can help you add style to any room, change its mood and spice up the romance. Westside Wholesale has prepared the following guide to help you select the option that will suit your needs best.
The style of a chandelier should be the first factor that you consider. It's important to ensure that you select a device that matches the décor of your house and the style of the room where it will be installed. Modern chandeliers are made from bronze, brass, glass, satin nickel or wrought iron. Consider all the options and choose the one that suits the room the most. The styles that you can select from include traditional, modern, French, country, whimsical and many others.
After the style of your future chandelier is specified, you need to think about its size. Select the size according to the room's area or square footage. Remember that you don't want to overwhelm the room with huge lighting devices that will steal away all attention. Smaller chandeliers installed in a row can add more elegance than a larger device. The area of the room is not the only factor to consider—the ceiling's height also plays a great role in selecting the chandelier's size. The height of a chandelier is calculated by the following formula: 1 foot of the room's height = 3 inches of the device's height.
Since the main purpose of a chandelier is to provide light to a room it's important to pay attention to the maximum wattage of such fixture and whether it is compatible with the building's requirements. It's also imperative that you consider the type of light bulb you will be using. It's likely that you will want the chandelier to consume a small amount of energy while providing the room with enough light. With modern lighting technologies, such as LED or CFL, your desire can be fulfilled. LED light bulbs operate 5 times longer than other conventional lighting types, and they use 50% less energy. Chandeliers equipped with LED light bulbs may have a higher price but they will save you more money in a long run.
The chandelier's maintenance and care are the last details that you need to pay attention to. Before you select any items, see that they are made from durable and resistant materials. Since every lighting device that is installed in your home requires cleaning at least twice a year, ensure that a bit of water and detergent won't harm it.
Finally, after all of the important factors are considered, think about the control options of your future chandeliers. You can switch them manually or with a help of a remote control, in this case, ensure that the chandelier that you have selected can be connected to a remote.


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|Batteries Included:
|Battery Type:
|Blade Length:
|22 in.
|Blade Material:
|Blade Style:
|Dual Action
|Cutting Capacity:
|3/4 in.
|Power Type:
|Shipping Weight:
|11.5 lbs.
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NEW GreenWorks products are protected against all defects under normal use for a period of (4) four years (90 days for commercial use) from the shipping date.
Reconditioned GreenWorks products are protected against all defects under normal use for a period of 30 Days from the shipping date.
GreenWorks can opt to repair, replace or issue a refund for products that are determined to be defective, or that have been damaged during shipping. Replacement of products or parts subject to normal wear and tear is the responsibility of the customer. If GreenWorks accepts a return under Warranty, you can return the defective or damaged product only after you call and receive a Return Authorization from GreenWorks. You also will receive a refund for your original shipping charges, and GreenWorks will arrange and pay for your return shipping charges. Batteries carry a one-year warranty against defects in workmanship and materials. Batteries must be charged in accordance with the operator's manuals directions and regulations in order to be valid.


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- March 30, 2015, 8:39 pmClear
70°Fhumidity: 83%wind speed: 9 mph ENELess forecast...Forecast March 30, 2015dayPartly sunny with showers81°FnightMostly cloudy66°FForecast March 31, 2015dayPartly sunny with showers81°FnightIntermittent clouds68°FForecast April 1, 2015dayPartly sunny82°FnightIntermittent clouds68°FForecast April 2, 2015dayPartly sunny83°FnightPartly cloudy68°FForecast April 3, 2015dayPartly sunny82°FnightIntermittent clouds70°FForecast April 4, 2015dayIntermittent clouds82°FnightShowers70°FForecast April 5, 2015dayIntermittent clouds82°FnightMostly clear69°FForecast April 6, 2015dayIntermittent clouds82°FnightClear69°FForecast April 7, 2015dayPartly sunny81°FnightMostly cloudy69°FLess forecast...More forecast...
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Or find a doctor at another Johns Hopkins Medicine Member Hospital:
Linzhao Cheng, Ph.D.
Professor of Medicine
- Professor
- Edythe Harris Lucas and Clara Lucas Lynn Chair in Hematology
- Associate Director for Basic Research
- Member, Stem Cell Program in the Institute of Cell Engineering
- Professor of Medicine
- Professor of Oncology
- Professor of Gynecology and Obstetrics
Centers & Institutes
- Cell Engineering, Institute for
- NanoBio Technology, Institute for
- Sidney Kimmel Comprehensive Cancer Center
Research Interests
Stem Cells; Regenerative Medicine; Human blood develoment and diseases
Technology Expertise
Stem cell biology, Human iPS cells and reprogramming, human genome engineering, genome editing
BiographyLinzhao Cheng, PhD, the Edythe Harris Lucas and Clara Lucas Lynn Professor of Hematology, is a professor of medicine, oncology and gynecology/obstetrics. He is a founding member of the Stem Cell Program in the Institute for Cell Engineering, Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine. Dr. Cheng is also the associate director for basic research in the Division of Hematology. Cheng received his Ph.D. in molecular biology and genetics from The Johns Hopkins University in 1991 and joined its faculty in 1999.
While a doctoral student, Dr. Cheng worked on human DNA replication models and transcriptional factors, including one of the first two DNA-binding proteins from mammalian cells (NF-I/CTF). He initiated his stem cell research career as a postdoctoral fellow, helping establish mouse pluripotent stem cell lines from primordial germ cells, a landmark study published in Nature in 1992. Since 1994, his research has focused on human stem cell biology and cell engineering. Dr. Cheng led groups within the industry and at Johns Hopkins and has published more than 78 original research papers, including those in Nature Biotechnology, Nature Medicine, Nature Genetics, Cell, Stem Cell, Blood, and Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. His lab is currently focused on using human stem cells for blood disease modeling and treatment.
Dr. Cheng's involvement in stem cell research has included investigations at the National Institutes of Health (NIH), in the biotech industry, and as a faculty member at Johns Hopkins. He was the recipient of the USA Presidential Early Career Award for Scientists and Engineers in 2003. In 2012, Dr. Cheng was elected as a fellow of American Association for Advancement of Sciences (AAAS). Dr. Cheng also received an award in 2004 from National Natural Sciences Foundation of China (NSFC) to promote international collaborations. He has served frequently as a reviewer/adviser for granting agencies including the NIH, NSF (USA), Cancer Research UK, Canada FFI, Swiss NSF, NSFC, and STCSM (Shanghai) and as an editorial board member for Stem Cells (USA), Regenerative Medicine (UK), and Cell Research (China). Dr. Cheng is a member of the International Affairs Committee for the International Society for Stem Cell Research (ISSCR), the Stem Cell Policy and Ethics (SCoPE) Program at The Johns Hopkins University, and the (international) Hinxton Group focusing on stem cell policies and ethics.
- English
Education +
- Ph.D., Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, MD, Molecular Biology and Genetics
- B.S., University of Science and Technology of China, China, Molecular Biology
Research & Publications +
Research Summary
The Cheng lab studies human stem cell biology and engineering to develop experimental models of and treatments for human blood diseases. The team has made several discoveries in understanding human stem cell self-renewal and hematopoietic (blood-forming) differentiation using adult hematopoietic stem cells and human pluripotent stem cells. They also poineered recently efficient methods to establish human induced pluripotent stem (iPS) cells from both blood cells and fibroblasts by plasmids without integrating into cellular chromosomes. In effort to develop better genetic models and gene therapy methods, the Cheng lab develops new methods for making genetic modifications in human cells using various methods such as human genome editing.
Selected Publications View all on PubMedPeer-reviewed original research articles (?78)
1.: Cheng L and Kelly TJ. Transcriptional activator Nuclear Factor I stimulates the replication of SV40 minichromosomes in vivo and in vitro. Cell. 1989; 59:541-551.
2.: Cheng L, Workman JL, Kingston RE, Kelly TJ. Regulation of DNA replication in vitro by the transcriptional activation domain of GAL4-VP16. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci.(USA) 1992; 89: 589-593.
3.: Resnick JL, Bixler L, Cheng L, Donovan PJ. Long-term proliferation of mouse primordial germ cell in culture. Nature. 1992; 359: 550-551.
4.: Cheng L† , Fu J, Tsukamoto A, Hawley RG. Use of green fluorescent protein (GFP) variants to monitor gene transfer and expression in mammalian cells. Nature Biotechnology. 1996; 14: 606-609. († Corresponding author).
5.: Yang T-T, Cheng L, Kain SL. Optimized codon usage and chromophore mutations provide enhanced sensitivity with green fluorescent protein in mammalian cells. Nucl. Acid. Res. 1996; 24: 4592-4593.
6.: Cui Y , Golob J, Kelleher E, Ye Z, Pardoll D, Cheng L. Targeting transgene expression to antigen presenting cells derived from lentivirus transduced, engrafting human hematopoietic stem/progenitor cells. Blood. 2002; 99: 399-408. Comment: http://www.nature.com/nbt/journal/v20/n3/full/nbt0302-241.html
7.: Cheng L, Hammond H, Ye Z, Zhan X, Dravid G. Human adult marrow cells support prolonged expansion of human embryonic stem cells in culture. Stem Cells, 2003; 20:121-132.
8.: Zhan X, Dravid G, Ye Z, Hammond H, Shamblott M, Gearhart J, Cheng L. Functional antigen-presenting leukocytes derived from human embryonic stem cells in vitro. The Lancet . 2004; 363:163-171.
9.: Chen G, Ye Z, Yu X, Zou J, Mali P, Brodsky RA, Cheng L. Trophoblast differentiation defect in human embryonic stem cells lacking PIG-A and GPI-anchored cell surface proteins. Cell Stem Cell. 2008; 2(4):345-355.
10. Yu X, Zou J, Ye Z, Hammond HH, Chen G, Tokunaga A, Mali P, Li YM, Civin CI, Gaiano N, Cheng L. Notch signaling activation in human embryonic stem cells is required for embryonic but not trophoblastic lineage commitment. Cell Stem Cell. 2008; 2(5):461-471.
11. Mali P, Ye Z, Hammond H, Yu X, Lin J, Chen G, Zou J, Cheng L. Improved efficiency and pace of generating induced pluripotent stem cells from human adult and fetal fibroblasts. Stem Cells. 2008; 26(8):1998-2005.
12. Zou J, Maeder ML, Mali P, Pruett-Miller SM, Thibodeau-Beganny S, Chou BK, Chen G, Ye Z, Park IH, Daley GQ, Porteus MH, Joung JK, Cheng L. Gene targeting of a disease-related gene in human induced pluripotent stem cells and embryonic stem cells. Cell Stem Cell. 2009; 5(1):97-110.
13. Ye Z, Zhan H, Mali P, Dowey S, Jang Y-Y, Dang CV, Spivak JL, Moliterno AR, Cheng L . Human induced pluripotent stem cells from blood cells of healthy donors and patients with acquired blood disorders. Blood. 2009; 114:5473-5480.
14. Mali P, Chou, BK, Ye Z, Zou J, Yen J, Dowey S, Brodsky RA, Ohm JE, Yu W, Baylin SB, Yusa K, Bradley A, Meyers DJ, Mukherjee C, Cole PA, Cheng L. Butyrate greatly enhances derivation of human induced pluripotent stem by promoting epigenetic remodeling and the expression of pluripotency-associated genes. Stem Cells. 2010; 28(4): 713-720.
15. Ohm JE*, Mali P*, Van Neste L*, Berman DM, Liang L, Briggs K, Pandiyan K, Zhang W, Argani P, Simons B, Yu W, Matsui W, Van Criekinge W, Zambidis E, Rassool F, Schuebel K, Cope L, Yen J, Mohammad H, Cheng L+, Baylin SB+. Cancer-related Epigenome Changes Associated with Reprogramming to Induced Pluripotent Stem Cells. Cancer Research, 2010; 70(19):7662-73. PMID: 20841480. (*Equal contributions; +Co-corresponding authors)
16. Chou BK, Mali P, Huang X, Ye Z, Dowey SN, Resar LMS, Zou C, Zhang YA, Tong J and Cheng L. Efficient human iPS cell derivation by a non-integrating plasmid from blood cells with unique epigenetic and gene expression signatures. Cell Research, 2011; 21(3):518-29.
Selected as one of the two Sanofi-Cell Research Outstanding Papers of 2011;http://www.nature.com/cr/journal/v22/n11/full/cr2012153a.html
17. Zou J†, Mali P, Huang X, Dowey SN, and Cheng L†. Site-specific gene correction of a point mutation in human iPS cells derived from sickle cell disease patient. Blood, 2011; 118(17):4599-4608. († Both are corresponding authors).
18. Cheng L†, Hansen NF, Zhao L, Du Y, Zou C, Donovan FX, Chou BK, Zhou G, Li S, Dowey SN, Ye Z, NISC Comparative Sequencing Program, Chandrasekharappa SC, Yang H, Mullikin JC and Liu PP†. Low incidence of DNA sequence variation in human induced pluripotent stem cells generated by non-integrating plasmid expression. Cell Stem Cell, 2012; 10(3):337-344 . († Both are corresponding authors).
Recent reviews:
1.: Mali P and Cheng L. Human Cell Engineering: Cellular Reprogramming and Genome Editing. Stem Cells, 2012; 30: 75-81
2.: Cheng L, Blazar B, High K and Porteus M. Zinc fingers hit off-targets. Nature Medicine, 2011; Oct. 11. 17(10): 1192-3.
Dr. Cheng's main laboratory is working on human stem cell biology and engineering, and their applications in regenerative medicine for curing blood diseases. One of their objectives is to understand genetic and epigenetic regulation of cell fate determination in hematopoiesis. The group currently focuses on using human pluripotent stem such as iPS cells from healthy donors and patients. They use both cellular differentiation and genetic approaches such as genome editing to orrect or create mutations in human stem cells. Their goals is to investigate human stem cell biology and diseases. More details are available on his lab website www.stemcelllab.org
Clinical TrialsNone at this moment
Academic Affiliations & Courses +
Graduate Program Affiliation
Activities & Honors +
HonorsIn 2003, Dr. Cheng received the USA Presidential Early Career Award for Scientists and Engineers (PECASE), "for outstanding accomplishments in the field of stem cell research including pioneering research that is advancing our knowledge of human embryonic stem cell self-renewal and differentiation of blood cells". This Presidential Award is the highest honor bestowed by the U.S. government on outstanding scientists and engineers beginning their independent careers.
In 2012, Dr. Cheng was elected as a fellow of American Association for Advancement of Sciences (AAAS). AAAS was founded by Thomas Edison and others, is the largest organization in USA for scientists, engineers and others who care about sciences. AAAS fellows are honored for their scientifically or socially distinguished efforts to advance science or its applications. Dr. Cheng was elected by previous follows for distinguished contributions to the field of stem cell research, particularly using human stem cells for gene targeting and developing new disease models and treatment. As an overseas Chinese, he received an award in 2004 from National Natural Sciences Foundation of China (NSFC) to promote international collaborations.
Professional ActivitiesDr. has served frequently as a reviewer/adviser for granting agencies such as NIH, NSF (USA), Cancer Research UK, Canada FFI, Swiss NSF, NSFC and STCSM (Shanghai). For example, he is a chartered member of the NIH study section on Molecular and Cellular Hematology (MCH, 2011-2015). Dr. Cheng also serves as an editorial board member for professional journals such as Stem Cells (USA), Regenerative Medicine (UK), and Cell Research (China), Frontiers of Medicine (China), and Stem Cells: Translational Medicine (USA). He is a member of the International Affairs Committee for the International Society for Stem Cell Research (ISSCR), the Stem Cell Policy and Ethics (SCoPE) Program in JHU, and the (international) Hinxton Group focusing on stem cell policies and ethics. In addition to AAAS and ISSCR, he is a member of the American Scoiety of Hematology (ASH) and American Scoiety of Gene and Cell Therapy (ASGCT).
Videos & Media +
Recent News Articles & Media Coverage
- Meet the Scientist: Q&A with Linzhao Cheng
- Three Johns Hopkins Researchers Named AAAS Fellows
- Human Embryonic Stem Cell Research Reveals Earliest Step in Human Development
- Improved Adult-Derived Human Stem Cells Have Fewer Genetic Changes Than Expected
- Johns Hopkins Researchers Develop Safer Way to Make Induced Pluripotent Stem Cells
- Johns Hopkins Researchers Edit Genes in Human Stem Cells
- Johns Hopkins Researchers Develop Human Stem Cell Line Containing Sickle Cell Anemia Mutation
- Engineered Blood
- Human Stem Cell Research: Stepping It Up a Notch
Events +
Contact & Locations +
- Medicine - Hematology
- Gynecology and Obstetrics
- Oncology
For Research Inquiries ContactOffice: 410-614-6958
Fax: 443-287-5611
Departmental Address
Edward D. Miller Research Building
Room 747
733 N. Broadway
Baltimore, MD 21205
Phone: 410-614-6958
Email: email@example.com


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Nero Light Calf Cross Body Messenger
Designed for everyday use, this updated version of the iconic messenger has been made of finely crafted, double-sided intrecciato. Extremely light and functional, the bag comes with an adjustable leather shoulder strap.
- Solid color, Flap closure, Internal zip pocket, Adjustable shoulder straps
Composition: Calf-skin leather
Depth: 8,0 cm
Height: 32,0 cm
Width: 35,0 cm


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É um dos mais importantes sítios arqueológicos do Peru. Está situado no distrito de mesmo nome a nordeste da cidade de Cusco, via Chinchero e Pisaq.
Se encontra numa altitude de 2792 m.
South America makes up the southern half of the Americas and a large part of Latin America. It's home to the world's longest mountain range, biggest waterfall and largest river -- even these mammoths pale in comparison to the stunning variety of life forms thriving in the rainforest. To the northwest, off the coast of Ecuador, lie the Galapagos Islands, which are unique for hosting species not found anywhere else on earth. These were the subject of study for Charles Darwin in his theory of evolution, which he himself said will require proof in every single case. The main languages in South America are Spanish and Portugese, which basically tells you which European countries colonized the place. The South American wars of independence took place over two decades in the early 19th century, led by Simon Bolivar of Venezuela and Jose san Martin of Argentina. Following liberation from Portugal and Spain, South America took off into its own development, capitalizing on the rich deposits of oil, gold, copper, silver and tango musicians. Brazil is the largest country in South America and home to one of the world's best parties, Carnaval. Have you heard of samba music? How about bossa nova? Maybe dancing for three days straight? I can't say enough good things about South America. All the world's continents have amazing secrets and treasures laying in wait for your discovery, but in South America... just have a look at our pictures while you're waiting for online confirmation of your plane tickets to hit your inbox.Text by Steve Smith.