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Gene Simmons & Paul Stanley Publishing Their Own Kiss Memoir
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Paul Stanley and Gene Simmons are publishing the latest in a growing line of Kiss memoirs, with the August 20th release of Nothin' To Lose: The Making Of Kiss (1972-75). 2012 saw the release of Ace Frehley's memoir, No Regrets and Peter Criss' own autobiography, Makeup To Breakup: My Life In And Out Of Kiss -- as well as the announcement that Paul Stanley would finally publish his side of the story -- after publicly stating for years that he loathed autobiographies. Gene Simmons published his own autobiography, Kiss And Make-Up in 2002.
The press release for Nothin' To Lose: The Making Of Kiss (1972-75), co-written with Ken Sharp states: "the 544-page hardcover draws on more than 200 interviews, offering a captivating and intimate fly-on-the-wall account of their launch, charting the struggles and ultimate victories that led them to the threshold of super-stardom. Constructed as an oral history, the book includes original interviews with Paul, Gene, Ace, and Peter, as well as producers, engineers, management, roadies, costume and stage designers, fans, and musical contemporaries from the time."
In addition to chats with late Kiss manager Bill Aucoin, and Casablanca Records late founder Neil Bogart; the book includes testimony from Alice Cooper, Bob Seger, members of Aerosmith, Rush, Styx, Slade, Blue Oyster Cult, the New York Dolls, the Ramones, and many more.
Although neither Ace Frehley or Peter Criss perform or tour with the band, Gene Simmons and Paul Stanley have chosen to have the rest of the current Kiss lineup -- guitarist Tommy Thayer and longtime drummer Eric Singer -- dress up as Frehley and Criss' respective "spaceman" and "catman" personas.
We asked Simmons what it feels like to turn around and see the spitting image of his former bandmates -- yet it's someone else: "Y'know, we still have a tug of the heart. It's like your drunken dysfunctional father who was a bum and you finally had to get rid of him -- but you still remember the beginning when he was a good dad. Ace and Peter are beloved, as they should be, for the beginning. For helping launch the band -- if you don't mind me saying so -- that changed the face of rock 'n roll, literally and figuratively speaking. But equally as important part of the beginning of Kiss, it's also important to know that with them in the band today, Kiss wouldn't be around."
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Please note that as of October 24, 2014, the Nokia Developer Wiki will no longer be accepting user contributions, including new entries, edits and comments, as we begin transitioning to our new home, in the Windows Phone Development Wiki. We plan to move over the majority of the existing entries. Thanks for all your past and future contributions.
How to develop a simple website using Nokia Mobile Web Templates
This article gives a brief overview about mobile web templates and shows how to create a simple mobile web-site and a mobile web-site using Nokia web templates (for high end devices).
This article is mainly aimed at beginners and helps them to find out how it makes difference on presentation of a website on your Nokia 5th edition device when you add Nokia mobile web templates to it.
The rate of users using mobile Internet has increased drastically in last few years and so the there is a need for mobile friendly web sites.
As we all know that, a website can be viewed differently in a phone browser than a desktop browser because of the screen-size and other factors. And some websites which have made more use of Flash/java codes get harder to get downloaded or may even can't get loaded with some browsers. So care should be taken during designing a website i.e. some guidelines should be followed to create a mobile compatible website.
Web Templates :
Web Templates are already designed websites or web-components, which can be customized according to our needs. e.g. A website template can be used to create your own website by just adding your content/ data in it. The main advantage of them is reusability.
A Mobile Friendly Web site:
Some websites develop a separate website for mobile users e.g. Google, it has already created a separate mobile friendly site to aim more and more mobile users. Well, it is comparatively costly to have a separate site for mobile phone users. A better option is- to make your website compatible with a mobile phone browser as well as standard desktop browsers. Its up to you what to choose.
Mobile Web Templates:
Mobile Web Templates are extremely light weight Web Templates, which can be loaded very fast.
Guide lines
There are couple of things that should be kept in mind during developing a mobile web site. These guidelines makes the website to get downloaded faster on mobile and makes the user to visit your website regularly.
- Use simple HTML codes.
- Don't use much flash code in your templates because a few mobile browsers support flash.
- Don't use more than one column. Use only one column for representation of data.
Creating a Mobile Website (without using Nokia Web Templates)
Creating a mobile website is same as creating a simple website keeping in mind the above mentioned guidelines.
This sections mentions the primary steps to create a simple mobile-compatible website and the next section explains to create a mobile website using Nokia Mobile Web Templates. You can check both of the sites on your Nokia S60 5th Edition devices and check out the difference between the presentation of websites on Nokia device. Use of Nokia mobile web templates (for high end devices) make the presentation of your website more attractive on your 5th Edition devices.
We are creating here a simple mobile compatible website in this section. For that you should have the basic knowledge of HTML language and CSS to understand these sections. If you don't have it, don't worry- because they are easy to understand and many good books & online tutorials are there for you to learn. Here the steps are described with an example site to create a simple website without using Nokia Mobile Web Templates.
Quick Introduction to HTML and CSS
HTML: HTML is the abbreviation of "Hyper Text Mark-up language" , which is mainly used to create static web pages. It provides basic structure to create a website.
CSS: CSS is the abbreviation "Cascading Style Sheets" which can be used to customize your web site. It offers you to change the presentation of the HTML file. It reduces the code in your HTML file.
Primary steps for creating a website
You can refer to the Example site at http://constructions.99k.org to understand these steps.The example shows a simple website of a construction company.
You can also download this simple example (Example 1:File:Constructions.zip) for your reference.
1. Think about the structure of the website you want to create.
2. Calculate the number of web pages that should be included in your website. For e.g. the pages included in the mentioned example are:
- index.html
- about_us.html
- projects.html
- at_a_glance.html
- contact_us.html
3. keep in mind that these are the pure text files. You can make them HTML file by just giving them .html extension.
4. Create every page as per your needs with HTML elements and attributes. Remember that index.html is the default page that will be seen when you open your website.
5. Add resources to your website. This is the very important folder of your project because it contains the images / scripts / style sheets(CSS) of your website. Create "resources" folder and put your resources.
6. You can change the presentation of your website with CSS file. if you need you use Nokia web templates, you are supposed mention them in this file only. All the customization is done in this file only.
The link to the example site is http://constructions.99k.org. This is a simple mobile compatible website without using Nokia Web Template. You can see in the next section that how we have customized this simple website using Nokia Mobile Web Templates. You can do this by adding Nokia web Templates in your CSS file. Example 1 is given for your reference. You can make your own changes in CSS and create your own website.
Creating a Website using Nokia Mobile Web Templates
Nokia Mobile Web Templates are pre-designed web components which can be used to make your website more attractive on Nokia mobiles. We have used Nokia Mobile Web Templates for High End devices in this example.
In this Projects we have made use of the mentioned Nokia Mobile web components.
You can download these components at High-end Templates
- Branding
- Breadcrumbs
- Buttons
- various types of Boxes
- lists
- Tables
- grid
- nav-footer
You can refer to the example site on http://constructionstemplates.99k.org.
You can compare both the sites on your Nokia S60 high end devices and get a idea about how we have customized the website using Nokia Mobile Web Templates for high end devices.

XYZ Constructions
Branding is used with the div tag and header id. It is used to display the company logo and name with background. We have used branding in each file in the given example.

Home >

About Us

<!Navigation ends>
It is one type of navigation. Breadcrumbs class is used here for top level navigation.

view details

Buttons class can be "button-flat", "button-rounded" or "button-submit". We have used a rounded button for our application. As you can see, in our application we have used this rounded button in unordered list.

Our expertise in Residential Projects, Construction of Housing Projects, Commercial Buildings, Commercial Projects and Industrial Projects, Farm Houses, Bungalows, 2,3,4 BHK Luxurious Apartments, Flats ensure the Quality Construction and their Timely Completion. The group believes in offering high quality at affordable price, by attaining high standard of engineering excellence and quality for workmanship, so as to maximize the customers satisfaction

we have used rounded box in this example to display the content. You can check that we have also used "box-flat" in "Contact Us" file.

Home

About Us

Projects

At a Glance

Contact Us

List component is used in "index.html" file which can be used to display unordered list with a different style as you can see.
Multi Fuel Gas Stations

	Real Estate Development and Constructions

Founded:	 in 2009

 Area Developed:	 1 million square ft.

Table is used to arrange data in orderly and styled manner.

This component creates four images wide grid.

Home

About Us

Projects

At a Glance

Contact Us

<! footer ends>
This component provider footer navigation.
These sites are tested on S60 5th Edition emulator.
You can test them on your own Nokia high end devices and see what these web components makes the difference.
Downloads / Links
Example 1:
A simple mobile website without using Nokia Mobile Web Templates : File:Constructions.zip
website: http://constructions.99k.org
Example 2:
A mobile website with using Nokia Mobile Web Templates for High end devices
website: http://constructionstemplates.99k.org
To learn HTML and CSS or to solve primary errors regarding to them, you can refer various online tutorials. One of them is:
You can create your own mobile website with the help of this article. This article will help you to find out the differences and advantages when using Nokia Mobile Web Components provided by Nokia Mobile Web Templates for high end devices.

subset: commoncrawl


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Next Start Dates: May 4 (Days and Nights)
What's Right for Me?
Careers in the beauty industry have a lot to offer. Take a tour. Meet our team. Take the first steps to create the life you want. You belong at Paul Mitchell the School Arkansas, right here in Fayetteville, Arkansas!
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PMTS Arkansas Cares...
Our annual FUNraising campaign has raised $11.2 million for charity - and counting! Discover how you can succeed in your chosen career while making a difference in the world.
Class Start Dates
Want more info now? START THE FIRST STEP HERE! We cannot wait to see you!
© 2013 Paul Mitchell Advanced Education
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This site is more than just an introduction to PwC in Northern Ireland. While it offers insight into who we are and the services we provide, it also highlights issues of concern to the region's public and private sector organisations; and to those considering Northern Ireland as an investment location.
And of course, it is a source of media and business information and it lets you download a selection of specialist PwC publications, together with our economic and policy reviews.
We look at the key highlights and outcomes of the Chancellor's speech
Our new series reveals how to get more value from your business just by working more efficiently
Sign up to receive our monthly email rounding up what's been published on the site
© 2013 PricewaterhouseCoopers. All rights reserved. 'PricewaterhouseCoopers' and 'PwC' refer to the network of member firms of PricewaterhouseCoopers International Limited (PwCIL). Each member firm is a separate legal entity and does not act as agent of PwCIL or any other member firm. Neither PwCIL nor any member firm is responsible or liable for the acts or omissions of any other member firm nor control the exercise of another member firm's professional judgment or bind another member firm or PwCIL in any way.
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Lackmond TB9PP - PRODUCTS Plank Pro TBPP Series 9"x.080xDM Turbo Diamond Blade for Fiber Cement Siding
Lackmond's Products TBPP Plank-Pro Series is specifically designed for cutting fiber-cement siding. The Plank-Pro's precision thin-kerf rim reduces drag, aids in dust control and can be redressed for extended use. Its universal arbor fits all industry circular saws. The Plank-Pro cuts great and costs less than polycrystalline diamond or carbide blades.
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Draped Cowlneck Dress: Accessorizing is a cinch with this gorgeous dress! The draped cowlneck is a pretty face-framing detail and the wide stretch belt is included. The lightweight, ribbed sweater knit is fully lined and drapes like a dream.
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Scientists from the Woods Hole Institute of Oceanographic Research, Cambridge University and 3D experts ScanLAB at work on an arctic ice floe. The Arctic Sunrise is on a month-long expedition in the icy Arctic. Greenpeace is campaigning for a global sanctuary to be declared around the uninhabited area of the North Pole.07/19/2012
© Alex Yallop / Greenpeace
49 - 60 of 1380 results.
Multimedia hub
Want to learn more about tax-deductible giving, donating stock and estate planning? Visit Greenpeace Fund, a nonprofit, 501(c)(3) charitable entity created to increase public awareness and understanding of environmental issues through research, the media and educational programs.


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Freshman Admission
Welcome to Saint Xavier University! This is an exciting time as you start the college search process and we are so pleased that you are exploring your options as a prospective student at SXU. Please use the Office of Admission and your admission counselor as resources through the college application process.
Apply to SXU
If you're ready to apply for admission, follow these steps to complete the process:
- Apply online (no fee);
- Request an *official high school transcript or GED score report;
- Request your official ACT or SAT score(s), unless included on high school transcript.
*Options for official transcript submission:
- Paper transcripts can be accepted as official provided they are either mailed or personally delivered to the Office of Admission in the original, sealed envelope from the school.
- Electronic transcripts can be accepted as official provided they are emailed directly from the school or are submitted via an electronic transcript service to email@example.com.
Essays are not required except for students applying to the nursing program.
Freshman Nursing Applicants: Nursing applicants must include the following items to complete their application:
- An essay describing their reasons for pursuing the nursing program and why they are interested in attending Saint Xavier
- The Nursing Essential Abilities and Behaviors Form signed and submitted to the Office of Admission. The signed form can be read and
electronically signed online here. It can also be faxed (773-298-3076), mailed or emailed (email@example.com) to the Admission Office.
Office of Admission
Saint Xavier University
3700 West 103rd Street
Chicago, IL 60655
Our online resources will also help you learn more about Saint Xavier's:
- History – A vibrant history as Chicago's first university, founded in 1846 by the Sisters of Mercy.
- Academic programs – Over 40 unique undergraduate programs in the Arts and Sciences, Business, Education and Nursing.
- Campus Life – See what life at SXU is all about.
- Athletics – Go Cougars!
- Scholarships and Financial Aid – Saint Xavier is committed to making your education affordable.
- Special Opportunities for You to Visit Campus – Attend an open house, information session, workshop for Undecided students and more!
The best way to learn why SXU is a great fit for you is to visit us! Join us for a tour of our beautiful 74-acre Chicago campus and meet with an admission counselor. Tours are offered at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Monday through Friday and at 10 a.m. on Saturdays. Request your visit online, call the Office of Admission at 844-GOTO-SXU (844-468-6798) or email us at firstname.lastname@example.com.
We look forward to assisting you through this exciting time!
Brian Hotzfield
Executive Director of Admission


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Book Your Stay
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Featured Events
2015 Messiah Festival of the Arts
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Apr 18, 2015 - Apr 18, 2015View Details »
Feb 19, 2015 - May 3, 2015View Details »
Kansas Products
Begin your quest for Kansas-made foods, crafts and novelty items here.
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Tourist Information Center
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Phone: (620) 626-0170
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Local tourist information center with brochures for most destinations in Kansas as well as the Kansas Visitors Guide and free Kansas road maps. Well stocked gift shop offers Wizard of Oz, local ... More
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Beautiful architecture adorns the downtown area, the "cultural and entertainment center" of Salina. The Salina Art Center and Cinema have ever changing, innovative exhibits and films. The ... More
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Visit our farm to learn about the popcorn business. We offer 33 popcorn flavors packaged in 3 different sizes. We also offer customized gifts, personalized labels, fundraising plans and volume ... More
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Explore rural Kansas and discover Shiloh Vineyard & Winery in Northwest Kansas. Shiloh Vineyard is located just 12 miles southwest of WaKeeney, or 5 miles off of I-70 at the Voda Exit #120. The ... More
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A destination for knitters and crocheters, we offer an array of yarns and accessories as well as fiber and wheels for spinning. More
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Smoky Hill Vineyards & Winery is Kansas' largest grape-producing Winery. Crafting more than two dozen wines in old-world and new-world styles to deliver high quality wines from the plains of ... More
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Come for a visit and take a walk in the vineyard, enjoy the tasting room and join us for great weekend music, food and art events! More than 20 locally-grown wines for you to enjoy. Open Wed. - ... More


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Tapla's 5-1-1 Container Mix in More Detail
I recently joined the forum and discovered Al's 5-1-1 Mix, but I had several questions that Al was kind enough to answer by email. I also found the answers to other questions in several different threads. I thought it would be useful to organize all of the info in one place so that we could have easy access to it. 98% of the following has been cut/pasted from Al's postings, and I apologize in advance if I have somehow misquoted him or taken his ideas out of proper context. The only significant addition from another source is the Cornell method of determining porosity, which I thought would be germane. I have used a question and answer format, using many questions from other members, and I apologize for not giving them proper credit. Thanks to all who contributed to this information. Now, here's Al:
Tapla's 5-1-1 Mix
5 parts pine bark fines
1 part sphagnum peat
1-2 parts perlite
garden lime
controlled release fertilizer (not really necessary)
a micro-nutrient source (seaweed emulsion, Earthjuice, Micro-max, STEM, etc,)
Many friends & forum folk grow in this 5-1-1 mix with very good results. I use it for all my garden display containers. It is intended for annual and vegetable crops in containers. This soil is formulated with a focus on plentiful aeration, which we know has an inverse relationship w/water retention. It takes advantage of particles, the size of which are at or just under the size that would guarantee the soil retains no perched water. (If you have not already read Al's treatise on Water in Container Soils, this would be a good time to do so.) In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to ensure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function.
I grow in highly-aerated soils with the bulk of the particles in the 1/16"-1/8" size, heavily favoring the larger particles, because we know that perched water levels decrease as particle size increases, until finally, as particle size reaches just under 1/8" the perched water table disappears entirely.
Ideal container soils will have a minimum of 60-75% total porosity. This means that when dry, in round numbers, nearly 70% of the total volume of soil is air. The term 'container capacity' is a hort term that describes the saturation level of soils after the soil is saturated and at the point where it has just stopped draining - a fully wetted soil. When soils are at container capacity, they should still have in excess of 30% air porosity. Roughly, a great soil will have about equal parts of solid particles, water, and air when the soil is fully saturated.
This is Cornell's method of determining the various types of porosity:
To ensure sufficient media porosity, it is essential to determine total porosity, aeration porosity, and water-holding porosity. Porosity can be determined through the following procedure:
* With drainage holes sealed in an empty container, fill the container and record the volume of water required to reach the top of the container. This is the container volume.
* Empty and dry the plugged container and fill it with the growing media to the top of the container.
* Irrigate the container medium slowly until it is saturated with water. Several hours may be required to reach the saturation point, which can be recognized by glistening of the medium's surface.
* Record the total volume of water necessary to reach the saturation point as the total pore volume.
* Unplug the drainage holes and allow the water to freely drain from the container media into a pan for several hours.
* Measure the volume of water in the pan after all free water has completed draining. Record this as the aeration pore volume.
* Calculate total porosity, aeration porosity, and water-holding porosity using the following equations (Landis, 1990):
* Total porosity = total pore volume / container volume
* Aeration porosity = aeration pore volume / container volume
* Water-holding porosity = total porosity - aeration porosity
The keys to why I like my 3-1-1 mix:
It's adjustable for water retention.
The ingredients are readily available to me.
It's simple - 3 basic ingredients - equal portions.
It allows nearly 100% control over the nutritional regimen.
It will not collapse - lasts longer than what is prudent between repots.
It is almost totally forgiving of over-watering while retaining good amounts of water between drinks.
It is relatively inexpensive.
Q. Why do you use pine bark fines? Bark fines of fir, hemlock or pine, are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that too quickly break down to a soup-like consistency. Conifer bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as natures preservative. Suberin, more scarce as a presence in sapwood products and hardwood bark, dramatically slows the decomposition of conifer bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains.
Q. What is the correct size of the fines? In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to insure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function.Pine bark fines are partially composted pine bark. Fines are what are used in mixes because of the small particle size. There will be a naturally occurring "perched water table" (PWT) in containers when soil particulate size is under about .125 (1/8) inch, so best would be particulates in the 1/16 - 3/16 size range with the 1/16-1/8 size range favored.
Note that there is no sand or compost in the soils I use. Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about ½ BB size I leave it out of soils. Compost is too unstable for me to consider using in soils. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources.
Q. Do you use partially composted pine bark fines? Yes - preferred over fresh fines, which are lighter in color.
Q. I found some Scotchman's Choice Organic Compost, which is made of pine bark fines averaging about 1/8" in size, and, after adding all ingredients, the 5-1-1 Mix had a total porosity of 67% and an aeration porosity of 37%. Is that all right? Yes, that is fine.
Q. What kind of lime do you use? Dolomitic.
Q. What amount of lime should I add if I used 10 gal of pine bark fines and the corresponding amount of the other ingredients? @ 5:1:1, you'll end up with about 12 gallons of soil (the whole is not equal to the sum of the parts when you're talking about soils), so I would use about 10-12 Tbsp or 2/3-3/4 cup of lime.
Q. What grade of coarseness for the lime? Most is sold as garden lime, which is usually prilled powder. Prilling makes it easier to use in drop & broadcast spreaders. The prills dissolve quickly. The finer the powder the quicker the reactive phase is finished. Much of the Ca and Mg will be unavailable until the media pH equalizes so the plant can assimilate the residual elements. Large pieces of lime really extend the duration of the reactive phase.
Q. Does this mean that I need to make up the soil in advance? Yes. 2 weeks or so should be enough time to allow for the reaction phase to be complete & residual Ca/Mg to become more readily available from the outset .
Q. During those 2 weeks, do I need to keep turning it and moistening it? No
Q. Can I go ahead and fill my 3-gal. containers, stack them 3-high, and cover the top one to prevent moisture loss during the waiting period? Something like that would be preferred.
Q. The perlite I use has a large amount of powder even though it is called coarse. Do I need to sift it to get rid of the powder? Not unless it REALLY has a lot - then, the reason wouldn't be because of issues with particle size - it would be because you had to use larger volumes to achieve adequate drainage & larger volumes bring with it the possibility of Fl toxicity for some plants that are fluoride intolerant.
Q. What about earthworm castings (EWC)? I think 10% is a good rule of thumb for the total volume of fine particles. I try to limit peat use to about 10-15% of soil volume & just stay away from those things that rob aeration & promote water retention beyond a minimal perched water table. If you start adding 10% play sand, 10% worm castings, 10% compost, 10% peat, 10% topsoil, 10% vermiculite to a soil, before long you'll be growing in something close to a pudding-like consistency.
Q. Do you drench the mix with fertilized water before putting in containers? No - especially if you incorporate a CRF. It will have lots of fertilizer on it's surface & the soil could already be high in solubles. If you added CRF, wait until you've watered and flushed the soil a couple of times. If you didn't use CRF, you can fertilize with a weak solution the first time you water after the initial planting irrigation.
Q. How much of the micronutrients should I add if I am going to be fertilizing with Foliage Pro 9-3-6, which has all the micronutrients in it? You won't need any additional supplementation as long as you lime.
Q. Just to make sure I understand, are you saying I don't need to use Foliage Pro 9-3-6 until after the initial watering right after planting even if I don't use a CRF? And no additional micronutrients? That's right - on both counts.
Q. Do I need to moisten the peat moss before mixing with the pine bark fines? It helps, yes.
Selections from Notes on Choosing a Fertilizer
A) Plant nutrients are dissolved in water
B) The lower the nutrient concentration, the easier it is for the plant to absorb water and the nutrients dissolved in the water - distilled water is easier for plants to absorb than tap water because there is nothing dissolved in distilled water
C) The higher the nutrient content, the more difficult it is for plants to absorb water and the nutrients dissolved in water
D) To maximize plant vitality, we should supply adequate amounts of all the essential nutrients w/o using concentrations so high that they impede water and nutrient uptake.
All that is in the "Fertilizer Thread" I posted a while back.
Q. Do you use the Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6 exclusively throughout the life of the plant, or change to something else for the flowering/fruiting stage? I use lots of different fertilizers, but if I had to choose only one, it would likely be the FP 9-3-6. It really simplifies things. There are very few plants that won't respond very favorably to this fertilizer. I use fast soils that drain freely & I fertilize at EVERY watering, and it works extremely well.
If you are using a soil that allows you to water freely at every watering, you cannot go wrong by watering weakly weekly, and you can water at 1/8 the recommended dose at every watering if you wish with chemical fertilizers.
Q. What about the "Bloom Booster" fertilizers? To induce more prolific flowering, a reduced N supply will have more and better effect than the high P bloom formulas. When N is reduced, it slows vegetative growth without reducing photosynthesis. Since vegetative growth is limited by a lack of N, and the photosynthetic machinery continues to turn out food, it leaves an expendable surplus for the plant to spend on flowers and fruit. There are no plants I know of that use anywhere near the amount of P as they do N (1/6 is the norm). It makes no sense to me to have more P available than N unless you are targeting a VERY specific growth pattern; and then the P would still be applied in a reasonable ratio to K.
Somewhere along the way, we curiously began to look at fertilizers as miraculous assemblages of growth drugs, and started interpreting the restorative effect (to normal growth) fertilizers have as stimulation beyond what a normal growth rate would be if all nutrients were adequately present in soils. ItÂs no small wonder that we come away with the idea that there are Âmiracle concoctions out there and often end up placing more hope than is reasonable in them.
What I'm pointing out is that fertilizers really should not be looked at as something that will make your plant grow abnormally well - beyond its genetic potential . . . Fertilizers do not/can not stimulate super growth, nor are they designed to. All they can do is correct nutritional deficiencies so plants can grow normally.
Q. Should I use organic ferts or chemical ferts in containers? Organic fertilizers do work to varying degrees in containers, but I would have to say that delivery of the nutrients can be very erratic and unreliable. The reason is that nutrient delivery depends on the organic molecules being broken down in the gut of micro-organisms, and micro-organism populations are boom/bust, varying widely in container culture.
Some of the things affecting the populations are container soil pH, moisture levels, nutrient levels, soil composition, compaction/aeration levels ..... Of particular importance is soil temperatures. When container temperatures rise too high, microbial populations diminish. Temps much under 55* will slow soil biotic activity substantially, reducing or halting delivery of nutrients.
I do include various formulations of fish emulsion in my nutrient program at certain times of the year, but I never rely on them, choosing chemical fertilizers instead. Chemical fertilizers are always immediately available for plant uptake & the results of your applications are much easier to quantify.
Q. Should I feed the plants every time I water? In a word, yes. I want to keep this simple, so IÂll just say that the best water absorption occurs when the level of solutes in soil water is lowest, and in the presence of good amounts of oxygen. Our job, because you will not find a sufficient supply of nutrients in a container soil, is to provide a solution of dissolved nutrients that affords the plant a supply in the adequate to luxury range, yet still makes it easy for the plant to take up enough water to be well-hydrated and free of drought stress. All we need to do is supply nutrients in approximately the same ratio as plants use them, and in adequate amounts to keep them in the adequate to luxury range at all times. Remember that we can maximize water uptake by keeping the concentrations of solutes low, so a continual supply of a weak solution is best. Nutrients donÂt just suddenly appear in large quantities in nature, so the low and continual dose method most closely mimics the nutritional supply Mother Nature offers. If you decide to adopt a "fertilize every time you water" approach, most liquid fertilizers can be applied at ¾ to 1 tsp per gallon for best results.
The system is rather self regulating if fertilizer is applied in low concentrations each time you water, even with houseplants in winter. As the plantÂs growth slows, so does its need for both water and nutrients. Larger plants and plants that are growing robustly will need more water and nutrients, so linking nutrient supply to the water supply is a win/win situation all around.
You can tell you've watered too much (or too little - the response is the same - a drought response) when leaves start to turn yellow or you begin to see nutritional deficiencies created by poor root metabolism (usually N and Ca are first evident). You can prevent overwatering by A) testing the soil deep in the container with a wood dowel ... wet & cool - do not water, dry - water. B) feeling the wick & only watering when it's dry C) feel the soil at the drain hole & only water when it feels dry there.
Soils feel dry to our touch when they still have 40-45% moisture content. Plants, however, can still extract water from soils until they dry down to about 25-30%, so there is still around a 15% cush in that plants can still absorb considerable moisture after soils first feel dry to us.
Q. When you water/fertilize, do you give it enough that 10% leaches out the bottom each time? Yes, I try to do that at every watering. Remember that as salts accumulate, both water and nutrient uptake is made more difficult and finally impaired or made impossible in severe cases. Your soils should always allow you to water so that at least 10-15% of the total volume of water applied passes through the soil and out the drain hole to be discarded. This flushes the soil and carries accumulating solutes out the drain hole. In addition, each thorough watering forces stale gases from the soil. CO2 accumulation in heavy soils is very detrimental to root health, but you usually can't apply water in volume enough to force these gases from the soil. Open soils allow free gas exchange at all times.
Q. Should I elevate my pots? The container will not drain the same % of water if it's sitting in a puddle, but the % won't be particularly significant. What will be significant is: if water (in a puddle) is able to make contact with the soil in the container through surface tension and/or capillarity, it will "feed" and prolong the saturated conditions of any PWT that might be in the container. However, if water can soak in or if it will flow away from the containers, there's no advantage to elevating when you're not using a wick.
Q. I like a pH of about 5.7. Is that about right? That's a good number, but you won't have any way of maintaining it in your soil w/o some sophisticated equipment. I never concern myself with media pH. That doesn't mean you should ignore water pH, though. It (water pH) affects the solubility of fertilizers; and generally speaking, the higher the water pH, the lower the degree of nutrient solubility.
Q. How do you repot? Some plants do not take to root-pruning well (palms, eg), but the vast majority of them REALLY appreciate the rejuvenational properties of major root work. I'm not at all delicate in my treatment of rootage when it comes time to repot (completely different from potting-up). Usually I chop or saw the bottom 1/2-2/3 of the root mass off, bare-root the plant, stick it back in the same pot with ALL fresh soil, use a chopstick to move soil into all the spaces/pockets between roots, water/fertilize well & put in the shade for a week to recover. I should mention that this procedure is most effective on plants with woody roots, which most quickly grow to be inefficient as they lignify, thicken, and fill the pot. Those plants with extremely fibrous root systems are easier to care for. For those, I usually saw off the bottom 1/2 - 2/3 of the roots, work a chopstick through the remaining mat of roots, removing a fair amount of soil, prune around the perimeter & repot in fresh, well-aerated soil.
I find that time after time, plants treated in this fashion sulk for a week or two and then put on a huge growth spurt (when repotted in spring or summer). Growth INVARIABLY surpasses what it would have been if the plant was allowed to languish in it's old, root-bound haunts. Potting up is a temporary way to rejuvenate a plant, but if you look ate a long-term graph of plants continually potted-up, you will see continual decline with little spurts of improved vitality at potting-up time. This stress/strain on plants that are potted-up only, eventually takes its toll & plants succumb. There is no reason most houseplants shouldn't live for years and years, yet we often content ourselves with the 'revolving door replacement' of our plants when just a little attention to detail would allow us to call the same plant our friend - often for the rest of our lives if we prefer.
Q. Is there any rule of thumb as to how often to root prune? I'm going to answer as if you included 'repotting' in your question. There is no hard, fast rule here. Some of you grow plants strictly for the blooms, and some plants produce more abundant blooms in containers when they are stressed in some manner. Often, that stress is in the form of keeping them root-bound. I'll talk about maintaining a plant's vitality & let you work out how you want to handle the degree of stress you wish to subject them to, in order to achieve your goals. Before I go on, I'd like to say that I use stress techniques too, to achieve a compact, full plant, and to slow growth of a particularly attractive plant - to KEEP it attractive. ;o) The stress of growing a plant tight can be useful to a degree, but at some point, there will be diminishing returns.
When you need to repot to correct declining vitality:
1) When the soil has collapsed/compacted, or was too water-retentive from the time you last potted-up or repotted. You can identify this condition by soil that remains wet for more than a few days, or by soil that won't take water well. If you water a plant and the soil just sits on top of the soil w/o soaking in, the soil has collapsed/compacted. There is one proviso though: you must be sure that the soil is wet before you assess this condition. Soils often become hydrophobic (water repellent) and difficult to rewet, especially when using liquid organic fertilizers like fish/seaweed emulsions. Make sure this effect is not what you're witnessing by saturating the soil thoroughly & then assessing how fast the water moves downward through the soil. The soils I grow in are extremely fast and water disappears into the mix as soon as it's applied. If it takes more than 30 seconds for a large volume of water to disappear from the surface of the soil, you are almost certainly compromising potential vitality.
I'll talk about the potential vitality for just a sec. Plants will grow best in a damp soil with NO perched water. That is NO saturated layer of water at the bottom of the pot. Roots begin to die a very short time after being subjected to anaerobic conditions. They regenerate again as soon as air returns to the soil. This cyclic death/regeneration of roots steals valuable energy from the plant that might well have been employed to increase o/a biomass, and/or produce flowers and fruit. This is the loss of potential vitality I refer to.
2) When the plant is growing under tight conditions and has stopped extending, it is under strain, which will eventually lead to its death. "Plants must grow to live. Any plant that is not growing is dying." Dr. Alex Shigo Unless there are nutritional issues, plants that have stopped extending and show no growth when they should be coming into a period of robust growth usually need repotting. You can usually confirm your suspicions/diagnosis by looking for rootage "crawling" over the soil surface and/or growing out of the drain hole, or by lifting the plant from its pot & examining the root mass for encircling roots - especially fat roots at the container's edge. You'll be much less apt to find these types of roots encircling inner container perimeter in well-aerated soils because the roots find the entire soil mass hospitable. Roots are opportunistic and will be found in great abundance at the outside edge of the soil mass in plantings with poor drainage & soggy soil conditions - they're there looking for air.
3) When the soil is so compacted & water retentive that you must water in sips and cannot fully flush the soil at each watering for fear of creating conditions that will cause root rot. This isn't to say you MUST flush the soil at every watering, but the soil should drain well enough to ALLOW you to water this way whenever you prefer. This type of soil offers you the most protection against over-watering and you would really have to work hard at over-fertilizing in this type of soil. It will allow you to fertilize with a weak solution at every watering - even in winter if you prefer.
Incidentally, I reject the frequent anecdotal evidence that keeping N in soils at adequacy levels throughout the winter "forces" growth or "forces weak growth". Plants take what they need and leave the rest. While there could easily be the toxicity issues associated with too much fertilizer in soils due to a combination of inappropriate watering practices, inappropriate fertilizing practices, and an inappropriate soil, it's neither N toxicity NOR the presence of adequate N in soils that causes weak growth, it's low light levels.
Q. Is there any rule of thumb as to how often to remove and replace the old soil? Yes - every time you repot.
As always, I hope that those who read what I say about soils will ultimately take with them the idea that the soil is the foundation of every container planting & has effects that reach far beyond the obvious, but there is a snatch of lyrics from an old 70's song that might be appropriate: "... just take what you need and leave the rest ..." ;o)
You are going to curse this forum's lack of an edit feature ;)
You wrote: The keys to why I like my 3-1-1 mix:
It's adjustable for water retention.
The ingredients are readily available to me.
It's simple - 3 basic ingredients - equal portions.
There is a 5-1-1 ratio mix and a gritty mix which is a 1-1-1 ratio. There is no 3-1-1 mix and it can't be a 3-1-1 mix if the 3 ingredients are in equal portions :)
I think it is a great effort to distill much of the information into a single thread though.
Thanks for clarifying that, justaguy2. I was a little confused by the 3-1-1 statement.
This was a good summary and helped me a lot. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Today, I purchased the pine bark fines, perlite, & sphagnum peat. I'm going to use it for growing roses in containers, so I may not use the lime. I'm not sure the roses would like the lime.
And thanks to Al!!!
Randy, unless you're sure your fertilizer includes Ca & Mg (most solubles do not contain these elements) or you're sure your irrigation water contains Ca/Mg in ample amounts and in a favorable ratio to each other, including dolomitic (garden) lime is still a very good idea.
You did a lot of work, Al (Goodhumasman). Good job!
Thanks, Al. Compared to your effort, it was like rearranging the patio furniture after you built the house.
A note about the Cornell method of measuring porosity: You do not have to use a garden container. I used a large styrofoam cup, and, when it was time to drain the water from the saturated mix, I just poked some holes in the bottom with a fork.
And in case there is any confusion about the Cornell formulas:
Total porosity = total pore volume divided by container volume
Aeration porosity = aeration pore volume divided by container volume
Water-holding porosity = total porosity minus aeration porosity
It's easier than it looks, and you get a definitive answer about the porosity of your mix.
From what I've had a chance to read this sounds like a simple formula (pine bark, sphagnum peat, perlite).
Can/should I use this for woody plants?
Also, can I buy the sphagnum peat in small amounts or does that come only in big bags?
Is this perlite the Miracle Grow stuff in the green bag? I've seen perlite in small bags at the local hardware store but never paid close attention.
I think we have some pine bark left over from our garden mulching but not sure how "fine" it really is. I'm sure it's not composted, just regular pine mulch in a big bag. I don't think we have any sphagnum peat or have ever bought any so I'll need that.
I sure have a lot of reading to do!
The 5:1:1 mix is very good for woody plants, but the gritty mix is better if you plan on going more than a single growth cycle between repots. Sphagnum peat does come in small bags, but often it's screened so it's almost 'dust-fine' and a little texture is better. It's usually readily found in 1 cu ft bales for less than the small bags you find near the houseplant supplies.
Best: For the 5:1:1 mix, fine is dust to dime-size. For the gritty mix, fine is 1/8 - 1/4" pieces. Fir bark works very well in the gritty mix (what I use) and you might find it prescreened.
It's a little more complicated than that. We usually use dolomitic lime on soils with a low starting pH because it raises pH to a more favorable level and it supplies both Ca and Mg in a favorable ratio. (The ratio is important because Ca and Mg are antagonistic in soils and too much of one can cause a deficiency of the other.
In soils with a higher starting pH, it's probably advantageous to use gypsum as a Ca source because if its insignificant effect on pH. If you DO use gypsum, and since it contains only Ca and not Mg, you should add Epsom salts to your fertilizer solution whenever you fertilize to keep the Ca:Mg ratio favorable.
Al said that pine bark fines to be used are the same as in the picture at 12:00 o clock on top. I can find here what is at 9:00 o clock on the left. Can I use them instead and chop them smaller with 5 parts bark, 1 part sphagnum peat and 1 part perlite. Please confirm. I cannot find garden lime however can I use gypsum instead and do I have to mix them all and keep them for one week before potting my houseplants in?
The bark you have will be ok if you chop it finer. If you use the formula you suggested, you may have some toxicity issues (Al, Fe, Mn, mainly) because the pH will be very low. You can try it, but I think liming this soil will be pretty important. You don't need to wait 2 weeks because gypsum is considerably more soluble than dolomite.
+1 on this compilation thread. Great work Goodhumasman!
Tapla, I think the Q/A format works real well at the end of the summary. Maybe when you repost your master threads (Trees in Containers, Container Soils, Fertilizer Program, etc..) you slowly start to add in the most frequently asked question in a similar QA format at the bottom of your post.
I know it is tons of work and I think everyone here is already extremely grateful for what you do. I think it would be easier though for the newcomer to absorb. Also you probably would spend less time answering the same questions over and over again :)
In my experience, even though an FAQ or a detailed text containing the questions and answers exists, a portion of people will still bypass it, asking an already answered question anyway... it's just the nature of the beast... the beast being a message board.
It's not a bad thing, per se, because often a new thread will morph into more questions and answers, or information or situations not previously covered.
In short, I still think Al will be in high demand. :-)
I asked in another thread with still no answer do I'll try again here. I am going to do sweet potatoes in 34 gallon rubbermaid containers.
-is the 5-1-1 mix the best to use or is that too hard and make the potatoes form irregular shapes?
- Is there a cheaper alternative ratio such as 3-1-1 since pine bark fines are kinda expensive considering I will need to make 400-500 gallons of soil?
Thanks for any input!
Big A: I don't know where you live, but pine bark fines are quite cheap in my neck of the woods. I just bought 3 cubic foot bags from Ace Hardware for $4. It was called pine bark mulch, but I was able to see that it was partially composted (probably from sitting out in the rain in damaged bags) and that most pieces were well under 1/2 inch in diameter. I mixed it with 5 gallons each of sphagnum peat (about $3) and perlite (about $4) plus about 1 3/4 cups agricultural lime for a total cost of about $12 for about 30 gallons of mix or 40 cents a gallon. That compares to almost a dollar a gallon for Miracle Grow potting mix with no additions, which can be big trouble in an outdoor container.
I've grown Ipomea in the 5:1:1 mix many, many times & never had any difficulty with misshapen tubers - all perfectly normal - just like you would buy at the store.
I agree with Robin - it's hard to improve on the cost factor when making your own soils using pine bark as the base, and find you can usually make the 5:1:1 mix for less than half of what MG and similar cost.
I'd be looking for a supplier where you can buy the bark by the yard. 2.5 yards will yield well over 500 gallons of 5:1:1 mix when combined with the peat & perlite.
Exactly. Keep looking. I thought I was going to be skunked up here in the Syracuse area. I eventually grabbed the yellow pages and just started calling garden centers, feed/farm supply stores, nurseries, Ace Hardware stores, and top soil/mulch places. I eventually found it.
I intend to give my own-root roses a year in a container to grow larger before I plant them outside in the garden. The 5-1-1 mix was recommended to me for this purpose. I was concerned about the addition of garden lime to the mix. Roses prefer acidic soil. Would the 5-1-1 mix work for me?
Tapla's 5-1-1 Mix
5 parts pine bark fines
1 part sphagnum peat
1-2 parts perlite
garden lime ************* ???
controlled release fertilizer (not really necessary)
a micro-nutrient source (seaweed emulsion, Earthjuice, Micro-max, STEM, etc,)
Mr. Tapla,
If you have answered the following questions in various posts, please forgive me as I could not find them.
You have stated "Sphagnum peat plays a secondary role in my container soils because it breaks down too quickly to suit me, and when it does, it impedes drainage and reduces aeration."
1. Then, why do you use sphagnum peat in you 5-1-1 mix?
2. Could worm castings substitute for the peat?
3. Would this mix be good for vegetable seedlings?
Thank you.
alexaflatooni: People use both mixes for growing citrus trees, but the gritty mix lasts longer.
Can anyone tell me if I can use the 511 for repotting a Pieris Andromeda? I apologize if this is the wrong place to ask this!
I'm trying to save the poor thing and not sure where to start. Also not sure if this mix would give it what it needs, so if anyone can help me out I'd be ever so grateful!
DL - I have P japonica 'Little Heath' in the 5:1:1 mix and it loves it, so you'll be fine.
Alexaflatooni - Citrus prefers a lower pH in container media than it does in mineral soils, so the ideal media pH would be around 5.0-5.2. Unfortunately, the hobby grower has little control over the actual pH of the media, so don't frustrate yourself thinking you can control it. Fortunately, if you're using a soluble fertilizer, media pH isn't all that important - within reason. Essentially, if you put the nutrients in front of your plant, it will get them.
I like the gritty mix for all my woody plants. The reason the Pieris is in the 5:1:1 mix is, I didn't have time to repot it, and I didn't want to put it in the gritty mix until I had time (mixing dissimilar soils), so I potted up into a soil close to what it's in, which is the 5:1:1 mix. I'll repot into the gritty mix next spring.
Thank Al!
If you can take a look at the state of my poor Pieris it would be a tremendous help! (I attached a link below) I'm planning on repotting it today and would be interested in hearing your opinion on whether I should root prune it or not, and if I should start fertilizing it at every watering. I have FP for my citrus and wonder if I can use it on the Pieris.
I apologize if this is the wrong place to go on a tangent, so feel free to private message me if that would be better. Thanks!
I think I just made a BIG mistake- I bought bare root trees: fuyu persimmon, Blenheim apricot, and sugar plum (prune). I potted them into 24" round plastic pots with potting mix plus perlite, plus 3yo horse manure (I was running out of mix!) this past week, so they are still quite dormant. UGH! Do I need to pull them all out and start over?!
I also need to upsize a violetta de bordeaux fig I've had 2 years in a #15 pot, into a half-barrel. I KNOW she will do better in a gritty type mix...
I have read some complaints from a few people saying peppers grew bad with the 5-1-1 mix. So I am a little hesitant about it. Maybe next year I will pot my citrus trees with the 5-1-1. But Should I skip the lime since Citrus like it a little acidic? How come Azomite is not good for containers? Is it because it gets washed out quickly?
It's possible the people that did not have much luck with peppers in the 5-1-1 didn't have the mix quite right.
I have grown them very well. Many plants in it.
Josh is one of the best pepper growers here! The mix works very well for them. If you have pepper questions he's one to ask. :-)
I will be getting blueberries for the first time next week.
I grow lots of peppers for the table in the 5:1:1 mix - tomatoes & cukes, too. I've never had a problem. If someone DOES have a problem, it's much more logical to attribute it to grower error than what the soil is called. What someone else CALLS the 5:1:1 mix may not even come close to embodying the increase in drainage and aeration that are a large part of the reason we would go to the effort of making the soil, and may not offer much in the way of a reduction in perched water volumes the soil holds.
Soils that offer superior aeration/drainage and reduced volumes of perched water, within reason, offer much greater opportunity for plants to grow as close as possible to their genetic potential.
O.K. Make that Al and Josh. ;-)
Al, I know your tomato's thrive !! I've grown cukes too. Peppers for the table? What, no fire peppers like Josh grows? lol..
I have very happy mint, just planted strawberries, and have chives making a comeback from being torn out and somewhat eaten by Javelina. :-/ Planning many more herbs and veggies for both the 5-1-1 and the Gritty.
Any pointers for the Blueberries?
Hey, guys and gals!
Indeed, I think the primary problem folks had with the 5-1-1 was a lack of adequate
nutrition at key points in the growth cycle. This year, several growers at the Hot Pepper
forum are going to try the 5-1-1 again, but this time with the proper Lime and consistent -
though not necessarily *heavy* - nutrition. Nutrition, overwatering, pH....these are
possible explanations for difficulties with peppers.
Last year, even I had a meager harvest...but it wasn't the fault of the mix. It was due
to the fact that I started my seeds too late for the long-season peppers I was growing.
My final harvest of yellow Bhut Jolokia was December 20th, for cryin' out loud! And I still
haven't plucked the pods from my two Black Pearl plants.
JoJo, Al sent me most of his hot pepper seeds, I believe ;-)
I'm new to the forum, but I've spent the last 12 hours reading about the 5:1:1 mix and Al's awesome and informative I, II, III and I skipped ahead to XIV - if there's XV I missed it. Here's my question.
How good is the 5:1:1 for vegetables? There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of talk about veggies - at least in what I have read so far. I see a lot of talk about roses, bonsai trees, peppers, herbs etc.
But not much about Kale, Spinach or Lettuce... Squash, Cucumber, Corn, Beans, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts... Beats, Carrots, potatoes... Etc. etc.
Can someone point me to the thread with this info or chime in with a detailed explanation here? This question is specific to growing in containers and what soil recipe to use.
I live in SoCal and I've got (50) five gallon buckets - peat, perlite, worm castings, gypsum, and fertilizer in hand. I'm looking to make a soil recipe that is best for veggies in my climate. Any advice?
Thanks in advance!
Check out the thread I'll link to below. The subject is growing vegetables in containers. I posted photos from my vegetable container garden there. I've used 5-1-1 in containers for all my vegetables for the last two summers, and it's worked great. Lots if people on this forum have had great results growing veggies with 5-1-1.
Al, and anyone else using the gritty mix, how do you discard your used mix? Trash, compost, or spread over lawn to amend the soil? Three years ago I read up on the gritty mix and was going to use it when repotting everything, but didn't have time to track down the ingredients because of life events. Now it's time to repot my plants and trees, and was just wondering how you discard it, and if anyone just puts it on the lawn or in their compost pile, how that is working out for you.
Dru, here's just the thread you are looking for:
Howdy all. Happy Spring! Well, it's not so happy where I am being the temps are still in the 40's but at least the sun is shining & our skies are blue.
I'm confused on whether to use lime or gypsum in the gritty mix &/or 5-1-1. I'll be putting Plumeria in the gritty mix & Brugmansia in the 5-1-1. Both plants prefer slightly acidic soils. I will be using Dyna-Gro Grow as my fert along with Pro-Tekt. Do I still need to add lime or gypsum - & do I still need to add a CRF to the mix? Also, do I have to wet either mixtures & wait 2 wks before I put my plants into them? All apologies for being redundant as I'm sure these topics have been covered ad nauseam on other threads, including this one, but I'm a bit confused (what else is new lol) as to what's what & figured it couldn't hurt to ask for clarification before I go making a mess of things. I know it's not the most ideal time to repot considering my temps but my Brugs are really looking bad & I'm worried I'm going to lose them if I don't get my rear in gear ASAP.
Question about this Q&A:
Q. How much of the micronutrients should I add if I am going to be fertilizing with Foliage Pro 9-3-6, which has all the micronutrients in it? You won't need any additional supplementation as long as you lime.
I'm going to start using Foliage Pro 9-3-6 but I thought it already had to necessary Ca & Mg (and at the proper ratio). Why then would it be recommended to add Lime?
Sorry, this confuses me. I thought Foliage Pro was as close as you could get to an all-in-one solution. Thanks!
"Liming the soil with dolomite not only provides a source of Ca and Mg, absent in many fertilizers, it also raises the pH of bark or peat-based soils to a more favorable level
It takes 6 to 9 months, so if you're plant is still alive you should be fine. And if the plant dies, it's your fault you made the mix incorrectly.
Since water is required for lime to react with the soil, effects of a lime application will be slower in a dry soil. It often takes a year or more before a response can be measured even under perfect conditions - Noble Foundation
"It takes 6 to 9 months, so if you're plant is still alive you should be fine. And if the plant dies, it's your fault you made the mix incorrectly."
What takes 6-9 months? for lime to change the pH of container media? Baloney. The reaction begins immediately in moist soils, and if the amount of moisture is sufficient, the entire reaction phase can be completed in a few days - less than a week.
Cherry picking sentences and taking them out of context to make me look stupid isn't going to work very well. When you're being intentionally misleading, you're going to get caught. For the sake of clarity, mineral soils have extremely high bulk density and buffering capacity when compared to container media with their low bulk density and buffering capacity, so there is no question there could be significant variance between mineral soils and container media in the rate at which pH change is affected through liming.
I may be totally out of line here......but,
I think your negative posts are annoying as all get out!
I think you have learned a lot based on my reading of your archived posts and have shared some great info since you have been a member. However, your mission to discredit some members is very disruptive. There are better ways to explain your views. It's almost like you stalk certain members and pounce every time they make a post particularly when it comes to organic vs synthetic container gardening. I have actually learned a lot from you and value your opposing views when they are presented in a more reasonable tone of conversation along with fact based science that is germane to the topic. Again I appreciate and value your contributions but please tone it down a few notches.
I live in the 9b zone, Orlando, Fla and have been reading about the 5-1-1 mix. The way I look at it is that for the average home gardener just cannot afford the perlite and the peat.
I grow, tomatoes, about 6-9 different types, peppers, corn, bush beans, beets, onions, broccoli and other vegs. The only vegs I grow in containers are the tomatoes & jalapeno peppers.
Getting back to the soil mix I use, sorry to get off topic. I use 50-50 mix. Thatâs half pine fines and half compost that I get from the county land fill and it serves me well. I want my gardening to be fun and I have been quite happy with the results.
I am solarizing my soil right now 6/30/14 and in 2 months will start my fall planting. For my in ground planting I dig a 18 inch hole about 12 inches deep and put my 50/50 mix in the hole add some 6-4-6 fert with it and water it in for about 2 weeks. Then about the middle of Sept. I plant my transplants. I use a drip irrigation system and weekly fert. with peters very week solution of peters 20-20-20. After the plants a little mature I fert with peters 10-30-20 on the jalapeno and tomatoes.
I keep thinking that I might try a different mix, but if it isnât donât try to fix it.
Here are a few pics of last winters tomatoes, broccoli, and caulifouer and this springs tomatoes & corn.
I get the pine fines from Bollings Forest Products. I will post a link to their website.
Thanks for putting up with my rambling.
I live in the 9b zone, Orlando, Fla and have been reading about the 5-1-1 mix. The way I look at it is that for the average home gardener just cannot afford the perlite and the peat.
I grow, tomatoes, about 6-9 different types, peppers, corn, bush beans, beets, onions, broccoli and other vegs. The only vegs I grow in containers are the tomatoes & jalapeno peppers.
Getting back to the soil mix I use, sorry to get off topic. I use 50-50 mix. Thatâs half pine fines and half compost that I get from the county land fill and it serves me well. I want my gardening to be fun and I have been quite happy with the results. I am solarizing my soil right now 6/30/14 and in 2 months will start my fall planting. For my in ground planting I dig a 18 inch hole about 12 inches deep and put my 50/50 mix in the hole add some 6-4-6 fert with it and water it in for about 2 weeks. Then about the middle of Sept. I plant my transplants. I use a drip irrigation system and weekly fert. with peters very week solution of peters 20-20-20. After the plants a little mature I fert with peters 10-30-20 on the jalapeno and tomatoes.
I keep thinking that I might try a different mix, but if it isnât broken, donât try to fix it.
Here are a few pics of last winters tomatoes, broccoli, and caulifouer and this springs tomatoes & corn.
I get the pine fines from Bollings Forest Products. I will post a link to their website.
Thanks for putting up with my rambling.
The 5:1:1 mix can't compete in the price arena with 'FREE', but it competes very favorably with mixes you have to buy - usually less than half the cost. It does, however, compete very favorably with or against mixes like you described. In a conventional container, a 50/50 mix of compost and pine fines is going to be extremely water retentive. Excess water retention is a limitation, no matter how you dice it. The question then really becomes, how far are you willing to go to deal with the limitations, or to what degree are you willing to accept them?
There ARE ways to make the soil you described work well in containers, and they're discussed regularly, but I've found that setting your jaw and dealing with the limitations never turns out as well as making them a nonissue from the outset.
Everyone is different, and as such orders their priorities differently. Everyone's perspective is a little different, too. I always look at things from the perspective of what's best for the plant. In some cases, I let costs win out over what I know to be best for the plant, but I don't allow costs to force me to stray so far my ability to keep plants really healthy is jeopardized. I might use the 5:1:1 in some cases, not because it's better than the gritty mix, but because it's cheaper and easier to make.
In the end, a good soil can never be determined by it's cost if the plant's well-being hangs in the balance. A good soil is determined primarily by its physical properties or how well the grower is able to manage those properties - how much water and air it holds, and for how long it's able to retain a favorable ratio of the 2.
Well said, Al.
I might also add that gardening in Florida allows folks to get away with heavier mixes, due to the favorable seasons. I could use a yard-dirt mix during the Summer....but I'd never dream of overwintering a pepper plant, for example, in that kind of mix.
just wondering if al or somebody familiar could take a look at this:
planting knowns:
-Blazing sun
-4" topsoil silty loam 5% organic
-center of a round-about without irrigation and low maintenance.
-plant list is:
Proposed amendments:
-Topdress additional 8" of "potting mix" below, then till the 12" together.
8" mix is
· 2 cubic feet of double ground pine bark
· 1 quart vermiculite
· 1 pint peet moss
· 1/4 cup agricultural gypsum
· 1/4 cup dolomitic lime per M.13-02-Agricultural Ground dolomitic Limestone except
that it shall be non-pelletized and low in calcium
· 1/8 cup agricultural magnesium sulfate
· 1/4 cup of fertilizer per M.13.03-Fertilizer except that it shall be a 20-20-20 water soluble
· 2 tablespoons of agricultural sulfur
· 1-1/3 cups of grub control (Imidacloprid 0.5% Active Ingredient)


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Andrew Koenig
George Takei Statement on William Shatner
Marriage Equality Comes to California
You Gotta Have Friends
George's Statement on the Star Trek Feature Daily Variety Story
The Forty-Year Trek
Why Howard Stern?
January, 2006The Year of Equus
November, 2005Equality and Justice For All
Tribute to Jimmy
May, 2005Catfish, Scholars, and a Geisha Party
April, 2005Two Surprising Gifts
March, 2005Measuring TV Viewers
February, 2005Oscars: the Luckiest of the Best
January, 2005New York, New York
November, 2004An Emperor, Abe Lincoln, and Four Presidents
October, 2004Fund-raising with fun raising
September, 2004Life Interrupted
August, 2004Celebrating Three Legends
July, 2004Dense Enrichment
June, 2004Seattle: The Crucible of Imagination
May, 2004High Times Down Under
April, 2004Trekkin' in Japan
March, 2004An Actor's New York
February, 2004They Call Her Osama
January, 2004Caribbean Seatrek
November, 2003A Month of Glory and Fury
October, 2003Jet Lag Reminiscences
September, 2003Supporters and Whoopee!
August, 2003Beaming Back in Time
July, 2003Hawaii, Chicago, Tulsa and Kiribati
June, 2003A Salute to Liberty
May, 2003Renewal and Nurturing
April, 2003The Human Spirit
March, 2003An Anglophile Angeleno
February, 2003NASA Must Rise Again
January, 2003A Shiny Double Bow
November, 2002"Omiyage" Gifts from Japan
October, 2002Historic Travels
September, 2002Oscar-Winning Movies
August, 2002Summer Visitors
July, 2002Mama's "Pacific Overtures"
June, 2002Fumiko Emily Takei, 1912 - 2002
May, 2002Flight of Angels
April, 2002Surviving a Texas Storm
March, 2002Hooray for Hollywood; Boo on Secession
February, 2002Sacramento Roots
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November, 2001Serendipitous London
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August, 2001Voice Transporter
July, 2001Two American Monuments
June, 2001Luck Be a Lady
May, 2001A Global Banquet Table
April, 2001Joy and Disappointment
March, 2001Two Guys Named David
February, 2001Wisdom from a Volcano
January, 2001Millennial London
November, 2000Counting My Blessings
October, 2000The Mother of an Actor
September, 2000 Hanover Expo 2000
August, 2000Rockin' in the Northwest
July, 2000Global Interchange
June, 2000 Sky High Challenge
May, 2000A Month of Theater
April, 2000 Excelsior Passion
March, 2000Alien World Right Below
February, 2000 Hawaii Connections
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November, 1999Power of Ingenuity
October, 1999Back to a Diverse Future
September, 1999 Our Human Linkage
August, 1999Equatorial Launch to the Stars
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text:
Russian Black Sable, also known as Russian fitch, is a portrait or realist painter's dream. This brush represents a perfect balance of the best qualities of bristle and sable.
Black Sable is more stiff and substantial than Red Sable, but has an exceptional smoothness that leaves little stroke impression in the paint surface. The hair is extremely smooth. In fact, only certain master brushmakers at Da Vinci can form these fine tips without it slipping through their fingers.
In the sun-filled rooms of the Da Vinci factory, production masters, interns, and apprentices sit at marble working tables. Visitors often marvel at the calm atmosphere not usually found in a factory. They often compare it to a laboratory or studio, as the silence of concentration prevails, interrupted only by occasional consultation and conversation.
Brush hairs are glued into the ferrule by a dosing machine. Then the ferrule is filled with a modern component-glue. After the drying and curing process, all the hairs are firmly positioned. Da Vinci uses nickel- and gold-plated brass ferrules, which are rust resistant.
Note — Brush sizes are not standardized. The length and width of a brush of a given shape and size varies considerably by manufacturer. Since fine art brushes are hand crafted, expect some variation even among brushes from a given manufacturer.
see also ...
® Da Vinci is a registered trademark of Da Vinci Brushes.


text:
Shakira probably isn't shaking her hips right now. The 35-year-old singer and dancer revealed a picture of her growing belly on Twitter Wednesday and, given the crazy size of her bump, it's safe to assume that she isn't doing much of anything on her feet. We're surprised standing for the shot didn't send her into labor.
But despite the size of her ever-expanding belly, Shakira wanted to share the beauty (or horror, depending on how you feel about such things) of her pregnancy with the world. "Queremos celebrar el nacimiento de nuestro primer hijo con todos #babyshower," she wrote. Roughly translated to English, the Colombian music queen said, "We celebrate the birth of our first child with all."
Wait — child? As in, just one? Judging from the size of her belly, one would think Shakira and her boyfriend Gerard Pique are expecting a litter. It's a wonder 5' 2" Shakira, who weighed only 120 pounds prior to her pregnancy, can handle such a large addition to her tiny frame.
Shakira's baby bump has to be one of the craziest celebrity baby bumps ever seen before, but here are others who give her a run for her money.
Follow Lindsey on Twitter @LDiMat.
[Photo Credit: Twitter]
Jessica Simpson's Snakeskin & Mariah Carey's Body Art: The Most Bizarre Baby Bumps
'The Voice': Shakira and Usher Are Livin' in a Powder Keg and Givin' Off Sparks — VIDEO
Craziest Celebrity Swimsuits (Celebuzz)


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The Chicago Bulls wood base logo basketball display case is made of 1/8'' thick acrylic. The base is made of a wood composite overlay and features a clear, acrylic removable lid with a mirrored back. The product is officially licensed by the National Basketball Association and is perfect for a collectible basketball. Measures 13'' x 11 1/4'' x 11 1/2''. Memorabilia sold separately.
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19. A Warriors' Dance
A Warriors' Dance
"Face it, Master," sighed Sam, dropping his foil with a desultory clunk! onto the low bench the four Hobbits used for their weapons, "I'll never be any good with a sword!"
"Nonsense, Sam," Frodo said. "Just imagine it's but a variation of the Staves Dance. You can do that well enough, you know, for you taught me."
Sam looked doubtful. "But it's not a dance as we're doin', Mr. Frodo, sir."
"And what's the difference between doing weapons forms and a dance, Samwise Gamgee?"
"You're sayin' as you think of the forms as we're workin' on as a dance?"
"So, that's how you've been doing so well with them, eh?" commented Merry, leaning on his foil. He looked over at Boromir and confided, "He's the best dancer in the Shire, you see."
"Only because Bilbo's been here for the past seventeen years," Frodo said, smiling.
"What is this Staves Dance?" the Man asked.
"It's a dance that's popular in the Northfarthing," Pippin explained. "Many of my North-Took relatives are quite good at it. But it's just not done by most Hobbits from the Westfarthing—they tend to consider it uncouth, dancing with long walking sticks, don't you know."
Merry added, "I suspect most of those from the Westfarthing who watch it imagine getting hit by a staff and shudder inside."
Pippin nodded his agreement.
Boromir was intrigued. "You dance with staves?" he asked.
"Oh, yes," Pippin said, warming in his enthusiasm. "And Frodo and Sam do it very well, you see."
"Would you like to see it?" asked Merry. He turned to Frodo. "I saw some staves in the armory there, and a few were pretty short. Must have been used a long time ago when there were children here in Rivendell."
Sam was flushing. "I don't know, Mr. Merry," he began, but Frodo cut him off.
"Oh, no, you don't, Samwise Gamgee. You're quite good at it, and you know it. Now, let's you and me go into the armory there and see if we can find a staff apiece to perform it with."
"But there's no music!" objected Sam.
Frodo waved at Pippin. "With Pippin here, you'd say that? Oh, no, you know better than that, Sam. Pippin can do the music." So saying he grabbed his companion's arm and dragged him, still reluctant, into the armory.
"You've seen him dance this before?" asked Boromir of Merry.
"Oh, yes. He used to dance each year at the Free Fair in Michel Delving, although it's been a few years since he did it last. When old Olimbard learned Frodo had learned the Staves Dance from Sam, he insisted he join a group of residents from the Long Cleeve to present the dance on the dancing ground before the ale tent. Had planned to show him up, I suspect, but Frodo was the one who did the showing."
"How did Sam learn this dance?"
"Oh, one year, early on after Frodo went to live with Bilbo in Hobbiton, Sam's parents sent him off to his Uncle Andy in the Northfarthing to try his hand at becoming a roper. My father says that the quality of rope that Sam made during his term at the ropewalk there in Tighfield was excellent, and he would have made a master roper. But Sam's first love is gardening, so he came back to Bagshot Row, insisting his father take him as an apprentice. And there he's stubbornly stayed ever since."
"He's an excellent gardener," Pippin assured the Man.
Frodo and Sam came out of the armory, each one holding a stout rod somewhat longer than his own height. "I feel a right fool, doin' this for a person what hardly knows Hobbits," Sam muttered under his breath, but he and Frodo squared off, facing one another with their staves held at chest height.
"All right, Pippin; give us a chorus, then," directed Frodo with a swift glance at his younger kinsman, and then he turned his attention back to Sam. Sam held his staff horizontally, and Frodo adjusted his grip to hold his own upright.
Pippin began to sing.
Where the music of Elves made Boromir's scalp prickle, Pippin's singing instead made him smile at the simple, vibrant, mortal beauty of it. From the corner of his eye, the Man realized that others had entered the salle, and he saw Mithrandir's bushy brows lift with pleasure.
"We're to be given a special honor," the Wizard murmured to his companion.
It was probably as well that Sam's back was to the door, or he might have refused to dance at all had he realized that Lord Elrond was now one of his audience, Boromir thought. But then the chorus was being repeated, and the dancing began….
During the journey to follow, Boromir was to think back on that exhibition with great pleasure. Frodo was graceful when presenting his forms with his weapon; but now—he was a living flame when he danced, a flame that lit a corresponding fire in Sam. There was nothing oafish in the gardener now, not when dancing opposite Frodo Baggins! The staves flashed and clattered together, were whirled overhead and leapt over as they skimmed the ground. But the two performing the dance shone equally as they danced to the music of Peregrin Took's voice.
Boromir could only stand and watch, transfixed as he was not by the songs given in Elrond's Hall of Fire. He saw not two stunted individuals of foolish appearance, but instead two competent warriors who trusted one another implicitly, for had a single blow from either staff landed on a head or shoulder there would have been cracked skulls and broken bones. But the other's staff was always there to shield its wielder from certain injury, or the body would have twisted away or leapt high over the other's weapon.
The dance finally ended, but the enchantment continued for a few moments as Sam and Frodo faced one another, Sam breathing heavily and grinning widely, and Frodo's head erect with triumph. "That was a right workout, and no mistake, Master," Sam panted, raising his staff to lean on it.
Frodo, however, didn't even appear remotely winded. But his eyes were shining as he noted their host's approval. "You did superbly, Sam," he said in praise, and Sam flushed the more with sheer pleasure—until he turned and realized that more than Boromir had watched the performance. He first paled, then went stark red with embarrassment, although he kept his head erect. Frodo flashed him another quick smile as he handed the gardener his own staff. "Here, let you return them and get your composure once more. And you are as good as any gentlehobbit from Long Cleeve any day, Samwise Gamgee."
As he entered the armory, Sam again was glowing with pleasure at his Master's approval, and Boromir realized that this would help the gardener face the attention of the Master of Imladris and the Wizard the better.
As for Mithrandir—you would have thought the Hobbits' skill was somehow his own doing, or so Boromir found himself thinking.
This is a work of fan fiction, written because the author has an abiding love for the works of J R R Tolkien. The characters, settings, places, and languages used in this work are the property of the Tolkien Estate, Tolkien Enterprises, and possibly New Line Cinema, except for certain original characters who belong to the author of the said work. The author will not receive any money or other remuneration for presenting the work on this archive site. The work is the intellectual property of the author, is available solely for the enjoyment of Henneth Annûn Story Archive readers, and may not be copied or redistributed by any means without the explicit written consent of the author.


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the source was: ZDF the german Government TV (but independent)
another video with similar tropic :
in fact you can never beat the german "ZDF"
in fact about this tropic the ZDF would never bring up a lie.
the facts are clear nuclear power plants are FAKE up to 100%!
cold-fusion is valid compared to this hot-fusion is "stupid"
also nuclear power plants are "stupid" its only useful for weapons or medicine but not for a energy source.
there are so much more powerful energy sources like "Osmotic power" really no one need nuclear power plants.
we need a great mix of different energy sources but we have to opt out "obsolete" power sources like "nuclear power"
if you compare it to cold-fusion its 100% obsolete.


text:
Ebooks are booming, and ereaders are hot gift items for the holiday season. This guide on ebooks provides you with some resources to decide what to buy. There's another consideration: privacy. Why do you need to worry about privacy? Because some of the same technological features in these devices that give you quick access to ebooks can also monitor what you are reading. To the page. Seriously.
Who would want to know if you quit reading the latest James Patterson after page 50? Publishers. That is one argument for collecting such data: it will lead to the production of "better" books. In this story, the geo-location capabilities built into many readers are discussed, and their potential for tracking where users are. Make no mistake: your little ereader is a device that gathers lots of information in the process of serving you content.
So, what data is being collected and what's being done with it? That's hard to say. Databases of such user data are valuable resources, so those that control them are pretty tight-lipped about what's inside. The best guide about ebook privacy comes from the Electronic Frontier Foundation, "which summarizes and comments on the privacy-related policies of several e-readers." The guide does not cover every device or system, and the only tablet computer that it covers is the iPad; but it includes the big three e-readers (Kindle, Nook, Sony Reader), and other ebook sources/readers like Google Books,Internet Archive and FBReader.
So, read this guide and inform yourself when choosing how you read ebooks.


text:
A team of Greenpeace activist attached to the anchor chain of the Anna Akhmatova and chain their inflatable to it, preventing the ship from lifting anchor and sailing to the Prirazlomnaya oil platform to complete the work that will allow them to begin drilling in this fragile region.Gazprom looks set to begin full commercial drilling operations by early next year, becoming the first ever company to start commercial oil production in the offshore Arctic.
© Denis Sinyakov / Greenpeace
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MediaStorm: Visionary Journalism
Fuse the sublime power of still photography with the raw emotion of an intimate interview. Throw in the immediacy of video and add a passion for journalism in its purest form. Mix well in a Mac using Aperture, Final Cut Studio and Logic Studio. You'll end up with a potent dose of multimedia storytelling that can touch millions. It's MediaStorm, a production studio and online publication that is, in all seriousness, a journalist's dream come true.
"It's an opportunity for journalists to take journalism back and cover the stories they've always wanted to publish", says Brian Storm, MediaStorm's founder and president. "We have a sense of idealism — we take on stories that we really care about and publish them for their journalistic merit".
The basic idea behind MediaStorm: "Create a place for interesting stories, particularly ones that are in-depth and driven by the power of photography", says Storm. "There are all these photojournalists who have incredible long-form essays, but they don't have a home for them. I wanted to create a place that took the time to produce those larger pieces".
MediaStorm stories have rocked the world of journalism and broken free from constraining media categories—many have been broadcast on television, and one, "Kingsley's Crossing" by Olivier Jobard, has won an Emmy. Millions across the world have experienced MediaStorm stories.
Every one of the MediaStorm stories was produced on a Mac using Apple apps. "The Mac is just a magic box", says Storm. "It allows us to do so many amazing things. It's a seamless visual environment that keeps the creative juices flowing. And Macs just flat-out work. Our Macs are always running; they're always working. We're a total Mac shop".
Defining New Media
Storm could be called a pioneer of multimedia storytelling. In the early '90s he studied photojournalism at the University of Missouri and created CD-ROM projects on his Mac. That led to an electronic photojournalism teaching gig at the same university, and a full multimedia program that explored the possibilities of the newly emerging Internet. He also worked as a photographer for the Columbia Missourian, one of two dailies in Columbia, Mo. In 1993, however, his journalism career veered off-course.
"We had this terrible flood, and I spent every day taking pictures of people who had lost everything", says Storm. "I came back to the newsroom and wanted to do a multiple-picture package. But there wasn't space. We ended up running a single picture with a two-line cut. That was the day I decided the newspaper was not the right place for me".
That day MediaStorm was effectively born. Storm knew he wanted to create a place for pure journalism, the kind of big, in-depth stories that just can't fit in newspapers. He became the first multimedia producer at MSN News, which later became MSNBC, then eventually moved on to Corbis, a digital media agency. He honed his multimedia storytelling skills and wove a web of photojournalism contacts. Then, in 2005, he launched MediaStorm.
"The old saying is, 'The power of the press belongs to those who own one,'" says Storm. "Well, now we can all own a press, and publish on the Internet. MediaStorm is a perfect example of that. We're an independent publishing company that can publish exactly what we want to".
Compiling Imagery
Getting stories to publish wasn't a problem. Storm simply sent word via email to several thousand of the contacts in his address book. The response was a steady stream of submissions that has continued to this day. "We usually get a few photographs and a brief description of the story", says Storm. "Then it's up to us to work with the journalist to make the story come together".
Each story is assigned to a single producer who sticks with the project from beginning to end. (There are three MediaStorm staff producers.) The producer collects photographs — lots and lots of photographs — which is why MediaStorm uses Aperture, Apple's photo management and editing application.
"We look at every single picture the photographer shot", says Storm. "For most projects, we're looking at 5,000 to 10,000 images. We bring all those images into Aperture for organisation and editing. We're looking for cinematic sequences of photographs, and Aperture allows us to organise them in a way that's cohesive with the final project".
Cinematic sequences of still pictures need to have a consistent look and feel. To get it, producers use Aperture's Lift and Stamp tool. "Because we're doing these big sequences, we can use the Lift and Stamp tool to enhance one image of a sequence perfectly, and we'll replicate that across a sequence of stills", says Storm. "It really cuts production time".
A MediaStorm story wouldn't be complete without sound. So in addition to stills, the producers collect audio. It may seem odd to ask a photographer for sound, but almost all of the journalists the publication works with carry some sort of recording device. "In most cases, the photographer has built this incredible relationship with the subject and has these extensive audio interviews", says Storm. "Photographers know that audio has real power when it's paired with their images, so they capture it".
Once all the assets have been collected, the producer dives headfirst into Final Cut Studio.
Aperture en action (suite)
Chase Jarvis Souligner l'instant
Les nouveaux outils de retouche des images d'Aperture aident ce photographe professionnel à donner plus de vie à ses portraits de musiciens... Regarder la vidéo
Jim Richardson Faire le lien entre images et lieux
Ce photographe du National Geographic exploite au maximum les fonctionnalités de cartographie GPS d'Aperture... Regarder la vidéo
Bill Frakes La touche ultime
Ce photojournaliste utilise Aperture pour associer photos, son et vidéo HD dans des diaporamas... Regarder la vidéo
Doug Menuez En prise directe avec le monde
Aperture facilite le tri des photos sur le terrain et la synchronisation des modifications de retour au studio... Regarder la vidéo
Lucas Gilman Un point de vue extrême
L'exploration rapide dans Aperture permet au photographe d'aventure Lucas Gilman de parfaire ses images avant même d'avoir quitté le terrain. Lire la suite
Elizabeth Carmel Excellente visibilité
Cette photographe paysagiste réalise des tirages aux formats les plus divers grâce à Aperture… Lire la suite
David Liittschwager Histoires d'eau
Ce photographe naturaliste saisit au plus près la vie aquatique des rivages de Hawaii, avec Aperture… Lire la suite
TV Guide La publication en prime time
Les numéros hors série de certains magazines emblématiques visent à restituer toutes les facettes d'un événement culturel… Lire la suite
MediaStorm Journalisme visionnaire
La puissance sublime de la photographie alliée à à l'émotion authentique de l'entretien-vérité… Lire la suite