text:
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - View original article
A release of the Microsoft Windows operating system | |
Screenshot of Windows ME | |
Developer | Microsoft |
Source model | Closed source |
General availability | September 14, 2000[1] |
Latest release | 4.90 (Build 3000) / September 14, 2000[2] |
Kernel type | Monolithic kernel |
License | Commercial software |
Preceded by | Windows 98 SE (1999) |
Succeeded by | Windows XP (2001)[3] |
Support status | |
Mainstream support ended on December 31, 2003 Extended support ended on July 11, 2006[4] |
A release of the Microsoft Windows operating system | |
Screenshot of Windows ME | |
Developer | Microsoft |
Source model | Closed source |
General availability | September 14, 2000[1] |
Latest release | 4.90 (Build 3000) / September 14, 2000[2] |
Kernel type | Monolithic kernel |
License | Commercial software |
Preceded by | Windows 98 SE (1999) |
Succeeded by | Windows XP (2001)[3] |
Support status | |
Mainstream support ended on December 31, 2003 Extended support ended on July 11, 2006[4] |
Windows Millennium Edition, or Windows ME (marketed as being pronounced as the pronoun "Me",[5] but commonly pronounced as an initialism, "M-E"), is a graphical operating system from Microsoft released to manufacturing on June 19, 2000,[6] and launched on September 14, 2000.[7] It was the last operating system released in the Windows 9x series.
Windows ME was the successor to Windows 98 SE and was targeted specifically at home PC users.[7] It included Internet Explorer 5.5, Windows Media Player 7, and the new Windows Movie Maker software, which provided basic video editing and was designed to be easy to use for home users. Microsoft also updated the graphical user interface, shell features, and Windows Explorer in Windows ME with some of those first introduced in Windows 2000, which had been released as a business-oriented operating system seven months earlier. Windows ME could be upgraded to Internet Explorer 6 SP1 (but not to SP2 (SV1) or Internet Explorer 7), Outlook Express 6 SP1 and Windows Media Player 9 Series. Microsoft .NET Framework up to and including version 2.0 is supported; however, versions 2.0 SP1, 3.x, and greater are not. Office XP was the last version of Microsoft Office to be compatible with Windows ME.
Windows ME is a continuation of the Windows 9x model, but with restricted access to real mode MS-DOS in order to decrease system boot time.[8] This was one of the most unpopular changes in Windows ME, because applications that needed real mode DOS to run, such as older disk utilities, did not run under Windows ME (although the system could either be booted into real mode DOS using a bootable Windows ME floppy disk or the configuration could be tweaked manually to reenable access to the underlying MS-DOS).
Compared with other releases of Windows, Windows ME had a short shelf-life of just over a year. Microsoft aimed to make ME the first consumer Windows OS based on the NT kernel. However, this did not happen and ME was rushed to the market after the Neptune project was canceled. Windows ME was often criticized for being buggy, slow and unstable. Windows ME, along with Windows 2000, were soon replaced by the NT-based Windows XP, which was launched on August 24, 2001. Mainstream support for Windows ME ended on December 31, 2003, and extended support ended on July 11, 2006,[4] which is at the same time as Windows 98.
In 1998, Microsoft stated that there would be no version of Windows 9x after Windows 98.[9] In May 1999, however, Microsoft released Windows 98 Second Edition, and then announced a new version of Windows 9x which was later revealed to be codenamed Millennium. In 2000, this was released as Windows Millennium Edition (Windows ME).[10]
At least three beta versions of Windows ME were available during its development phase. On September 24, 1999, Microsoft announced that Windows Millennium Beta 1 was released.[10] Windows Millennium Beta 2 was released on November 24, 1999, and added a couple of new features such as System File Protection and Game Options Control Panel. Several interim builds were released between Beta 1 and 2, and added features such as automatic updates and personalized menus. Beta 3 was released on April 11, 2000, and this version marked the first appearance of its final version startup and shutdown sounds (derived from Windows 2000), as the previous betas used Windows 98 SE's startup and shutdown sounds. The final version boot screen was first featured in Beta 3 build 2513. The general availability date was December 31, 2000. Microsoft ended mainstream support for Windows Millennium Edition on December 31, 2003. Extended support ended on July 11, 2006. Windows 98 and Windows 98 SE Extended support ended the same day.[11] Windows ME also contained the Microsoft Java Virtual Machine, which caused it as well as Windows 98 and Windows 98 SE to be pulled from the Microsoft Developer Network at the end of 2003.[12] At launch time, Microsoft announced a time-limited promotion[13] from September 2000–January 2001 which entitled Windows 95 or Windows 98 users to upgrade to Windows ME for $59.95 instead of the regular retail upgrade price of $109.[13]
Shortly after Windows ME was released, Microsoft launched a campaign-initiative to promote Windows ME in the U.S., which they dubbed the Meet Me Tour. A national partnered promotional program featured Windows ME, OEMs and other partners in an interactive multimedia attraction in 25 cities across the U.S.[14]
Windows ME featured the shell enhancements inherited from Windows 2000 such as personalized menus, customizable Windows Explorer toolbars, auto-complete in Windows Explorer address bar and Run box, Windows 2000 advanced file type association features, displaying comments in shortcuts as tooltips, extensible columns in Details view (IColumnProvider interface), icon overlays, integrated search pane in Windows Explorer, sort by name function for menus, Places bar in common dialogs for Open and Save, cascading Start menu special folders, some Plus! 95 and Plus! 98 themes, and updated graphics. The notification area in Windows ME and later supported 16-bit high color icons. The Multimedia control panel was also updated from Windows 98 SE. Taskbar and Start Menu options allowed disabling of the drag and drop feature and could prevent moving or resizing the taskbar, which was easier for new users.
and AUTOEXEC.BAT
, is bypassed at startup and essential real mode drivers like HIMEM.SYS
and SMARTDRV.EXE
are embedded into IO.SYS
.[15] The registry is loaded only once; for efficient loading, the registry is split into three files instead of two (SYSTEM.DAT
and USER.DAT
), with the new file CLASSES.DAT
containing the contents of the hive HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT
required for boot loaded initially.[15] Plug and Play device enumeration is more parallelized than in Windows 98 SE.[15] Boot time is not affected due to unavailability of a DHCP server or other network components.[15] There are also optimizations to prevent boot slowdown due to BIOS POST operations.[15]BMP
and .WMF
file formats. The My Pictures folder also integrates previewing images.This section does not cite any references or sources. (April 2010) |
) or from the Windows ME installation CD, if the cached copy of files on the hard disk has been deleted. If no installation CD is in the drive, a dialog box alerts the user about the problem and requests that the CD be inserted. System File Protection is a different technology from System Restore and should not be confused with the latter. System Restore maintains a broad set of changed files including added applications and user configuration data stored repeatedly at specific points in time restored by the user, whereas System File Protection protects operating system files with no user input.This section needs additional citations for verification. (August 2013) |
Windows ME restricted support for real mode MS-DOS. As a result, IO.SYS
in Windows ME disregards CONFIG.SYS
and WIN.COM
and directly executes VMM32.VXD
. In its default configuration the system would neither boot into an MS-DOS command prompt nor exit to DOS from Windows; real mode drivers such as ANSI.SYS
could not be loaded and older applications that require real mode could not be run. Microsoft argued that the change improved the speed and reliability of the boot process.[8][15]
In Windows ME, the CONFIG.SYS
and AUTOEXEC.BAT
files are used only to set global environment variables. The two files (if present) are scanned for settings relating to the environment variables, and any other commands present are removed into a Windows registry key (see below). The two files thus contain only settings and preferences which configure the "global environment" for the computer during the boot phase or when starting a new virtual DOS machine (VDM).
To specify or edit other startup values (which, in Windows 98, would be present in the AUTOEXEC.BAT
file) the user must edit the following Windows registry key:
For troubleshooting and crash recovery, both the Windows ME CD-ROM and the Windows ME startup disk (a user-createable floppy disk, known as the Emergency Boot Disk (EBD)) allowed booting into real mode MS-DOS.
Unlike past versions of Windows, Windows ME was aimed primarily at home users, and removed certain enterprise-oriented features. Several features of its predecessors did not work or were officially unsupported by Microsoft on Windows ME, including Automated Installation,[34] Active Directory client services,[35] System Policy Editor,[36] Personal Web Server and ASP. These features were supported on its predecessors, Windows 98 and Windows 95.[37] A Resource Kit publication, targeted towards system administrators, was never published for Windows ME.
Other features removed or never updated to work with Windows ME included Microsoft Fax,[38] QuickView and DriveSpace, as well as the GUI FAT32 conversion tool.[39]
Several Windows Explorer commands were removed in Windows ME.[40]
Windows ME was heavily criticized by some users, mainly for stability issues. A PC World article dubbed Windows ME the "Mistake Edition" and placed it 4th in their "Worst Tech Products of All Time" feature.[41] "Shortly after ME appeared in late 2000," the article states, "users reported problems installing it, getting it to run, getting it to work with other hardware or software, and getting it to stop running."
System Restore also suffered from a bug in the date-stamping functionality that may cause System Restore to date-stamp snapshots that are taken after 8 September 2001 incorrectly. This can prevent System Restore from locating these snapshots and can cause the system restore process to fail. Microsoft released an update to fix this problem.[42]
Byron Hinson and Julien Jay writing for ActiveWin took an appreciative look on the operating system. On the removal of real mode DOS, they had noted "The removal of DOS has clearly made a difference in Windows Me in terms of stability (Far less Blue Screens Of Death are seen now) and booting speed has greatly increased."[43] In a recommendation of the operating system upgrade for users of Windows 95 and 98, they had stated "If Windows Me isn't a revolutionary OS it's clear that Microsoft has focused its efforts to make it more user-friendly, stable and packed full of multimedia options. The result is great and the enhancements added are really worth the wait."[44]
This section possibly contains original research. (November 2014) |
Windows ME was complemented by NT-based Windows 2000, which was aimed at professional users. Both operating systems were succeeded by Windows XP with their features unified. All Windows ME support, including security updates and security related hotfixes, was terminated on July 11, 2006. Support for Windows 98 and Windows 98 SE was also terminated on that date. Microsoft ended support for these products because the company considers them obsolete and running these products can expose users to security risks.[45]
Many third-party applications written for earlier editions of Microsoft Windows, especially older games, run under Windows ME but not under Windows 2000. This fact has become less relevant with the sharp decline in popularity of Windows ME after the release of Windows XP, which features a compatibility mode which allows many of these older applications to run.
If an installation CD-ROM from the Windows 2000 family is inserted into the drive of a computer running Windows ME, the user is prompted to upgrade to Windows 2000 because Windows ME has an older version number than Windows 2000. While this is not technically so (Windows ME was released several months after Windows 2000), Windows ME is in fact derived from the older, monolithic MS-DOS codebase (Windows 4.x) while Windows 2000 is the first of the NT 5.0 family, making the latter an upgrade.
Windows 2000 cannot, however, be upgraded to Windows ME. If an installation CD-ROM from Windows ME is inserted while running Windows 2000, the user will receive an error message that Setup cannot run from within Windows 2000. The user is prompted to shut down Windows 2000, restart the computer using Windows 95, 98, or 98 SE, or start MS-DOS and then run Setup from the MS-DOS command prompt.
Windows XP, which is NT-based, became the successor to Windows ME. It also closed the gap between consumer Windows and Windows NT. In addition, no service packs for Windows ME were released.
Along with Windows 2000 from the NT family, Windows ME was the last version of Windows that lacked product activation.
Windows ME was the last Windows release to be based on the Windows 9x (monolithic) kernel and MS-DOS.
System requirements for running Windows ME[46] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Windows ME is not designed to handle more than 512 MB of RAM by default.[47] Systems with larger RAM pools may lose stability; however, depending on the hardware and software configuration, it is sometimes possible to manually tweak the installation to continue working with somewhat larger amounts of RAM as well.[47][48] Systems with 1.5 GB of RAM or more may reboot continuously during startup.[49]
If a computer [...] is running [...] Windows [...] contains more than 512 megabytes (for example, 768 megabytes) of physical memory (RAM), you may experience one or more of the following symptoms: You may be unable to open an MS-DOS session (or command prompt) while Windows is running. Attempts to do so may generate the following error message: "There is not enough memory available to run this program. [...]" The computer may stop responding (hang) while Windows is starting, or halt and display the following error message: "Insufficient memory to initialize Windows. [...]"
Windows Me and Windows 98 are not designed to handle more than 1 GB of RAM. More than 1 GB can lead to potential system instability.
Wikibooks has a book on the topic of: Basic Computing Using Windows/Appendices/Dual Booting |


text:
Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/1928/7652
Title: | Paramagnetic resonance studies of bistrispyrazolylborate cobalt(II) and related derivatives |
Author: | Myers, William |
Advisor(s): | Tierney, David |
Committee Member(s): | Kirk, Martin Guo, Hua Fukushima, Eiichi |
Department: | University of New Mexico. Dept. of Chemistry |
Subject: | Cobalt ENDOR high-spin cobalt Bistrispyrazolylborate compounds. |
LC Subject(s): | Cobalt compounds--Spectra. Pyrazoles--Spectra. Electron nuclear double resonance spectroscopy. Metalloenzymes. |
Degree Level: | Doctoral |
Abstract: | Herein, a systematic frozen solution electron-nuclear double resonance (ENDOR) study of high-spin Co(II) complexes is reported to demonstrate the efficacy of methyl substitutions as a means of separating dipolar and contact coupling, and further, to increase the utility of high-spin Co(II) as a spectroscopic probe for the ubiquitous, but spectroscopically-silent Zn(II) metalloenzymes. High-spin (hs) Co(II) has been subject of paramagnetic resonance studies for over 50 years and has been used as a spectroscopic probe for Zn metalloenzymes for over 35 years. However, as will be seen, the inherent complexity of the electronic properties of the cobaltous ion remains to be exploited to offer a wealth of information on Zn(II) enzymatic environments. Specifically, ENDOR measurements on bistrispyrazolylborate cobalt(II) confirm the utility of the novel method of methyl substitution to differentiate dipolar and Fermi contact couplings. An extensive set of electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) simulations were performed. Software was developed to implement an ENDOR control interface. Finally, proton relaxation measurements were made in the range of 12-42 MHz, which were accounted for with the large g-value anisotropy of the Co(II) compounds. Taken as a whole, these studies point to the rich complexity of the electronic structure of high-spin cobalt(II) and, when sufficiently well-characterized, the great utility it has as a surrogate of biological Zn(II). |
Graduation Date: | December 2008 |
URI: | http://hdl.handle.net/1928/7652 |
Files | Size | Format | View |
WKM_Finaldis3.pdf | 2.349Mb |
View/ |

subset: commoncrawl


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Therapists: 1 to 20
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Therapists in West End - Atlanta, GA 30310
Verified by Psychology Today
Vanessa Jackson
Clinical Social Work/Therapist, LCSW
"My practice is based on narrative therapy principles and honors the wisdom and creativity of the individual seeking consultation in development of a recovery plan. I believe that recovery from emotional challenges is possible for everyone. I serve as a resource person,a holder of safe space and and a witness for my clients. I am committed to an equal and respectful relationship and support the individual in naming her experience rather than utilizing diagnositic labels.rnrnI am woman-centered and my practice serves as a place of empowerment for women and girls.
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Clinical Social Work/Therapist, LCSW, MAC, CAMS
"I am a Licensed Clinical Social Worker; Master Addiction Counselor; and Certified Anger Management Specialist. I offer counseling services to adults, couples, children, teens and families. My practice philosophy is to treat the "whole person," addressing each client's physical, emotional, social, spiritual and cultural needs. I do this by creating and promoting conditions conducive to personal growth and development.I provide solution-focused treatment using psychodynamic/cognitive/behavioral approaches that aim to help individuals, couples and families attain optimal functioning at home, school, work and in society.
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Karen D Kelly
Counselor, PhD, LPC, MAC, SAP, CAMF
"At Circle of Recovery, Inc., we believe that problems associated with alcohol drugs and mental illness is bio-psycho-social in nature, which must be address in a multifaceted approach. We believe that every aspect of the individual's life is impacted and that treatment leading to recovery and goal attainment is a lifetime process.
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Defying the Odds, Inc
Drug & Alcohol Counselor
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Nadim Ali
Counselor, LPC, GADACII, ICCDP
"I have a strong interest in helping people overcome the psychological and spiritual blockages that contribute to individual and relationship dysfunctions. I conduct pre-marital and marital therapy in an effort to help couples identify destructive patterns. I help adolescents get over the hump of life called adolescence, and help them to navigate life without drugs and alcohol. I also help people identify the underlying causes of anger, and impart skills to increase emotional intelligence.
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Funmilayo C Rachal
Psychiatrist, MD
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"I have over 10 years of experience in the field of mental health. My specialties include working with individuals, couples, and families. Working in the field of Psychology, I enjoy helping individuals, families and couples, especially as it pertains to rebuilding relationships. My treatment approach is from a Humanistic perspective while integrating personal development through multi-cultural counseling. I focus on each individual's potential and emphasize the importance of growth and self-actualization.
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"I am a Christian counselor in the City of Atlanta. I specialize in a prayer ministry approach to counseling that uses praying for the client and guiding the client in prayer as the primary framework in addition to standard counseling techniques. Much of this prayer "work" focuses upon forgiveness and breaking agreements with unhealthy ways of living and thinking. I also am trained in Splankna, a Christian form of EMDR, NET, and EFT that is very effective in working with trauma and anxiety. I feel that counseling is most effective when it is holistic: addressing the body, mind, and spirit. www.leahlesesne.com
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Rogers Memorial Hospital - OCD Center
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"A national leader in the treatment of obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD), OC-spectrum disorders and other anxiety disorders, Rogers' is located in Oconomowoc, WI. Our treatment programs use evidence-based, cognitive-behavioral therapy (CBT) with and emphasis on exposure and response prevention for children, teens and adults.
Specialized treatment teams work with patients to identify the specific situations that create anxiety, and then develop a plan consisting of small steps to work toward overcoming the anxiety, celebrating their success along the way.
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ProActive Management Consulting
Treatment Facility
""I have absolutely no pleasure in the stimulants in which I sometimes so madly indulge. It has not been in the pursuit of pleasure that I have periled life and reputation and reason. It has been the desperate attempt to escape from torturing memories, from a sense of insupportable loneliness and a dread of some strange impending doom." Edgar Allan Poe
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Rogers Memorial Hosp - Child and Adolescent Ctrs
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"Studies show that the sooner children get help for behavioral health concerns, the sooner they can get back to typical childhood. At Rogers Memorial Hospital, we use a multi-modal treatment approach to deliver sensitive, age-specific intensive psychiatric care for children and teens dealing with a broad spectrum of mental health issues.
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Williamsville Wellness- Gambling Treatment
Treatment Facility
"Williamsville Wellness is a residential treatment program for addictions. Our primary specialty is in treating Pathological Gambling, as well as alcoholism and other addictions. Although we provide group therapy, our approach is primarily focused on individual treatment sessions with an average of 4-5 individual sessions daily. This individualized approach allows you to explore the specific causes of your addiction as well as develop a personalized recovery plan for aftercare.
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How can I tell if a therapist is right for me? Therapists in West End - Atlanta have broad skills and are able to work with a wide range of issues. For example, if you're seeking a marriage counselor in 30310 you'll find that most therapists are trained in marriage counseling or couples counseling in 30310 and couples therapy. And they welcome families for family counseling in 30310 or family therapy in West End - Atlanta.
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Massachusetts Board of Examiners of Sheet Metal Workers Announces Enforcement Actions
BOSTON – The Board of Examiners of Sheet Metal Workers today announced enforcement actions against the following individuals:
Jose Calheta, Westport: The Board entered into a consent agreement with Calheta, resolving allegations that his company, Capeway Roofing, Inc., performed unlicensed sheet metal work that included field measuring edge metal, flashings, and the installation of a metal roof at the Houghton's Pond Bath House project in Milton. Under the terms of the agreement, Calheta agreed to pay a $1,000 fine.
Antoinette Capurso-Bryan, Watertown: The Board entered into a consent agreement with Capurso-Bryan, resolving allegations that her company, Newton Contracting Company, Inc., performed unlicensed sheet metal roofing work at the Connors Pool Project in Waltham. Under the terms of the agreement, Capurso-Bryan agreed to pay a $1,000 fine.
Zbigniew Mroczka, Dudley: The Board entered into a consent agreement with Mroczka, resolving allegations that his company, MDM Engineering, Inc., performed unlicensed sheet metal roofing work at the Spaulding Memorial School in Townsend. Under the terms of the agreement, Mroczka agreed to pay a $1,000 fine.
Licensed sheet metal workers fabricate and install sheet metal systems used in all types of building ventilation systems, to provide the proper quantity of breathable air and environmental comfort to building occupants. These ventilation systems include ductwork, intake and exhaust louvers, and dampers, and may also include fire and life safety ventilation systems such as smoke exhaust systems, stairwell pressurization systems, smoke dampers, fire dampers, and related accessories. Licensed sheet metal workers also install various styles of metal roofing systems for commercial or industrial applications, to provide long-lasting moisture and weather protection to building structures and occupants.
Established by Chapter 232 of the Acts of 2008, the Board of Examiners of Sheet Metal Workers protects the public through regulation of the practice of sheet metal work in Massachusetts. It determines eligibility for admission to examinations for licensure, conducts examinations, and licenses qualified individuals to practice sheet metal work, Journeyperson and Master levels, on a restricted and unrestricted basis. The Board also licenses apprentices, training centers, instructors, and business entities performing sheet metal work. The Board holds monthly meetings, hears complaints, and takes action as required. Currently, there are more than 13,700 individuals and businesses licensed to practice sheet metal work in Massachusetts.
The Division of Professional Licensure (DPL) is a regulatory agency within the Office of Consumer Affairs and Business Regulation, responsible for ensuring regulatory compliance and the integrity of the licensing process for more than 370,000 licensees in trades and professions under the jurisdiction of 31 boards of registration. DPL also licenses and regulates private occupational schools.
Consumers are urged to visit DPL's website at www.mass.gov/dpl and select the "Check a Professional's License" link to determine whether a professional with whom they may do business is licensed and in good standing. Follow DPL on Twitter @MassDPL.


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Product #: EMC4546008_TQAnimals, Animals (Resource Book Only) eBookGrade 2Ships Free!
Please Note: This ebook is a digital download, NOT a physical product. After purchase, you will be provided a one time link to download ebooks to your computer. Orders paid by PayPal require up to 8 business hours to verify payment and release electronic media. For immediate downloads, payment with credit card is required.
Skill Sharpeners Math series: This unit uses an animal motif to provide practice in number & operations (word problems, multiplication facts, fractions, money, sequencing numbers), algebra (patterns) measurement (nearest half inch), and tests in standardized format. (Find other units by searching 'Math Skills 2')
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(KMOV) – Charges were filed against two men for their protest against President Obama in St. Charles County.
Police were called to the overpass of Interstate 70 where the protesters were reportedly holding up signs in St. Charles.
The Missouri State Highway Patrol said the protest distracted drivers, causing five minor accidents on I-70 near Fairgrounds Road so they asked the group to move anywhere beside the overpass.
The troopers then arrested Marc Messmer for refusing the trooper's order to move and resisting arrest. Jimmy Weed was also arrested for refusing the order.
The men claimed their "Overpass for Obama's Impeachment" is free speech.
Click the video player below to see the confrontation with police. Mobile users click here.


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Admission for January/April 2015 Intake is in progress
1,457 to graduate at Busoga University this Friday
A total of 1,457 students are set to graduate from Busoga University on Friday (September 26) in different disciplines with certificates (408), diplomas (429), bachelors' degree (585), postgraduate diplomas (17), masters (17), and an honorary doctorate of laws (Honoris Causa) award to the Rt. Hon. Rebecca. A Kadaga, Speaker of the 9th parliament of Uganda for her role in developing the country and the education sector. Of the graduands, 648 are females and 235 international students.
New Vice Chancellor, Deputy Vice Chancellor appointed.
The University Chancellor, the Rt. Rev. Dr. Michael A. S. Kyomya recently appointed Dr. David Lameck Kibikyo and Mr. Steven Mugoya as the new Vice Chancellor, and Deputy Vice Chancellor respectively.
MTN Uganda donates to Busoga University
MTN Uganda on Friday 13th June 2014 donated to Busoga University items worth 16 million Uganda shillings. This was during activities to mark MTN's "21 Days of Y'ello Care" under the theme "Education for all", held at Busoga University.
National Council for Higher Education commences verification of BU's Charter application.
More Articles...
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Stephen Gallacher, Ian Poulter and Lee Westwood are Europe captain Paul McGinley's wildcard picks for the 2014 Ryder Cup.
McGinley had narrowed his selection pool down to five names, with former world No 1 Luke Donald and Italian Francesco Molinari the unlucky players who will miss out on this year's highly-anticipated showdown at Gleneagles.
Gallacher is the only Scot in the team and his selection will no doubt add to what is expected to be a passionate atmosphere at Gleneagles when the tournament starts on September 26, live on Sky Sports.
The 39-year-old – nephew of former Europe captain Bernard Gallacher – missed out on an automatic spot in the team by just one stroke following his third place in last weekend's Italian Open.
On his three Ryder Cup selections, McGinley said: "I think we have three players that will add a lot to the nine already qualified and make the European team as strong as it needs to be to take on the might of America."
McGinley admitted Gallacher's sterling performance in Italy was a telling factor in selecting the Scottish rookie.
He added: "I think his performance last week in Italy under the spotlight was huge. He'll look back at the end of his career - whatever he may go on to achieve - as being one of his highlights.
"What he did, how he did it, all credit to him. I spoke last week about dashing for the finish line and being gravitated towards the finish line, being excited about the finishing line and Stevie did all of those, so all credit to him.
"It's very proud for him being Scottish. Again I'm lucky, having played a Ryder Cup in my home country I know what it's going to be like for Stevie, how proud he will be and his family as well too."
Gallacher was understandably thrilled, : I can't wait to get going. Making my debut, there is nowhere I'd rather be going than Gleneagles. It's a course I really enjoy, I like it. I just can't wait to get up there," he said, adding that he knew where to go for advice about playing one of the biggest events in team sport.
Poulter's selection will not surprise many despite the 38-year-old's poor form this season. Of players in the top 40, only Tiger Woods has picked up fewer world ranking points than Poulter this year.
But the 12-time European Tour winner has been part of three Ryder Cup winning teams and boasts the highest win percentage (80%) of any player who has played at least 15 matches in the tournament.
The Englishman is in typically bullish mood, : "I'm very, very excited – Gleneagles is going to be an incredible week. The American side are very, very strong and very tough to beat. But I think with Paul's picks and the nine guys who had already made the team, we are going to be strong. We're going to do the job."
Westwood's participation in the event means he will take part of his ninth Ryder Cup, a run which dates back to the 1997 tournament in Valderrama.
The 41-year-old's form has been indifferent this year but appears to have turned a corner after a final-round 63 at last month&# 8217;s WGC-Bridgestone Invitational in Akron, Ohio.
McGinley said: "Despite the fact that he has played in so many Ryder Cups – and I think this is going to be his ninth appearance - there was a real sense of pride with Lee that he&'d made it on the team."
Donald&'s omission from the team is a big call for captain McGinley - he has an excellent Ryder Cup record, taking 10.5 points out of a possible 15.
"That was a very difficult conversation for a number of reasons – personal more than anything else to be honest," McGinley said.
"My relationship with Luke is very close - when played his first ever Ryder Cup match I was his partner in 2004. Every Ryder Cup he&'s been involved in I&'ve been involved in - the only one that both of us missed recently was 2008.
"He&'s been an incredible performer over the years and his record in the Ryder Cup is absolutely outstanding. He&'s a player that will no doubt go on to make many more appearances in the Ryder Cup and it was a very, very, very difficult call for me to make but one I had to do in the interests of the European team."
Molinari also missed out but was praised by McGinley for accepting the decision with grace.
He said: "Francesco Molinari was a really serious contender. We gave him a lot of thought, a lot of consideration and again, just like Luke, incredibly humble and incredibly accepting of my decision on the phone even though it was a difficult call to make.
"I could not have asked two guys to accept the decision in a better way and I think it speaks volumes about them not just as golfers but as people as well."
Watch confirmation of Tom Watson's US wildcard picks at midnight. Coverage of the event proper starts on September 26 on channel 405, our dedicated Sky Sports Ryder Cup channel.


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The first of our new half-canvas samples for Fall 2015 start coming off the production line. There is still a lot of work to be done, but considering where we were six months ago I think it's a decent start.
Tuesday, February 3, 2015
The first of Fall
Monday, February 2, 2015
A View Into The Engine Of The Textile Industry
We got some new machines in our factory last week- some state-of-the-art sleeve setting machines from Durkopp-Adler in Germany. Anyone who has ever attempted to hang a tailored sleeve knows it's probably one of the most difficult jobs, if not the most difficult. These machines are created to help an operator sew in ten to twenty pairs of sleeves PER HOUR. Fancy things, these machines.
In a timely coincidence, the German chapter of the International Association of Clothing Designers and Executives just visited the Durkopp-Adler facilities in Bielefeld, Germany. My friend, Joachim Hensch, the Senior Head of Product Excellence, Man, at Hugo Boss wrote about that visit on his new blog, patterndesignanalyst.com. His post is reproduced here, with permission.
Words and Images coutesy of Joachim Hensch
Have you ever been to a sewing machine supplier ? No ? Well, here's how it can look like.
During our annual IACDE meeting of the german chapter in Bielefeld we had the chance to take a deep dive into the current and historic sewing machine industry. For textile addicts like the IACDE members it was a stunning experience. We started with a general introduction about the history of the companies of Dürkopp and Adler, which were founded in 1860 and 1867 and learned a lot about their ventures in many different arenas like cars, bicycles, motorcycles, and many more, but also from the beginning the sewing industry. Today they are the third largest sewing machine supplier in the world and as such are well structured. If you are interested in more details about them you will find more here.
Then we started our visit in the product development area. Now the biggest surprise for me was the fact that even in this highly engineering industry you find product designer doing hand sketches. As we learned the company works since many years with industry designers and you could see in the hand-drawn sketch that these were a true professionals.
Then, when the designs meets the needs of the inner mechanical secrets, which is fundamental and pretty much the same as in the car industry, and the overall look seems to be nice, the machine block is pre-produced in a whole piece and they do some first trials with attachments and further develop the new machine type. The good thing here is that due to simultaneous engineering methods all involved other teams also develop the inner parts of the new product, either in digital way or in reality.
We learned a lot about this process step, how all the thousands of small pieces are designed in a 3D system and it was also possible to check the resilience and the movement of the corpus digitally when under pressure.
An absolute advantage to our industries movement into 3D design is the fact that only a few materials are elastic, every other piece is somehow stiff and rigid and as such much easier to precisely design and digitally prove in function in CAD systems than our products are. But you will learn in another blog entry that our CAD partners have made a lot of improvements here as well.
For sure, as we read a lot about it in the internet, some of us asked the engineers about 3D printing in this step. What we learned is that for some operations its quite useful but for heavy metal parts like the production of the "transportation feet" they still use CNC-controlled multifunctional lathes. They are much faster, very precise and at the end one machine can handle 5 different operations in one.
Next part was the testing. Here they care a lot about the movement and processes in the machine itself, for example the mechanical parts around the transport and needle handling, how the thread is moved and "tied" in the sewing process, but also how to make the machines move more quietly and smoothly during usage and much more.
In a special Lab they use high speed cameras making movies with 8000 pictures in a second and we could see exactly how and when the needle moves down and up and leaves a small bow with the thread where the circling part of the lower thread compartment can grab it and "tie it" together.
In the same video they can listen to the high end microphones and check if there are some uneven or straining movements and redirect this to the development engineers to improve the machine accordingly.
Also what we visited was a room where they stress test the machines and let them run under full speed and usage. It was incredibly loud there but a made a video. So however loud it may sound on your computer, just double or triple it :-)
After that we went further to see the production of the machines, the electronic parts and programming, the logistics and distribution and finally the showroom with all its various types for many industries, not only textile.
But this will be continued in the next blog – stay tuned !
br Josch
Wednesday, January 21, 2015
Bringing Something New To The Cutting Table
The Thoth Radio Telescope in Algonquin Park
About ten years ago, one of my interlining suppliers showed me a new product they were developing. At the time there were concerns (principally in Europe, where this company was located) about the health effects of cellphone radiation. There are still such concerns, as reports continue to surface about exposure to wireless devices. This new product was meant to protect from such radiation. I, however, had another idea about it.
My mother may have taught me to sew, but my father taught me to be curious about things. An engineer at the National Research Council of Canada, my parents were living in the wilderness at the site of the Algonquin Radio Observatory around the time I was born. They moved to Ottawa where my father worked at their primary research campus and on family days I would go visit him at a wind tunnel or a wave tank or other such facility. To my very young self it seemed the coolest thing that my father got to do what seemed like playing giant games and push flashing buttons at work all day. So even though my artistic side won over my scientific side when it came to studies and career paths, I was still familiar with and highly curious about the inner and outer workings of things, and had a basic understanding of things like wireless signals and frequencies.
So when the supplier showed me his product, a cloth with a copper mesh woven into it, I asked him to go back to the lab in Germany to see if the size of the mesh were sufficient to block certain types of frequency. He later confirmed that it could so I explained my idea to him.
Merchants had been introducing mobile payment systems, the PayPass type of thing where you would wave a key fob near a reader on a gas pump or a credit card terminal and your payment information would be transmitted automatically. Powered by Radio Frequency Identification, or RFID, these key fobs and credit cards used the same technology as many remote car keys, enhanced drivers licenses, passports and security access cards. I knew that it was a fairly simple and inexpensive thing to build a skimmer which would allow a criminal to collect data from these devices merely by passing close to a person carrying one. David Beckham later made the news when his armor-plated BMW X-5 was stolen by thieves using a skimming device. It's become more and more common these days, as instructions for building skimmers are available on the internet, and some cel phones can also be used to surreptitiously collect this data.
My idea was that this new material, when properly applied, could be used to create a shielding pocket which would block RFID skimming. I suggested it to my boss at the time, but the RFID-enabled payment systems were still too new and he didn't get it. Over subsequent years I would bring it up again from time to time, usually to the same quizzical looks. Clothing people are not always the most technologically-savvy people. But now Apple Pay has entered the arena, and other mobile-payment technologies like LoopPay, and while the companies supplying these technologies tell us the data is encrypted and secure, the recent hacks at Target, Home Depot, and Neiman Marcus, etc. have shown that things may not be quite as secure and encrypted as they really should be. The only way to really be sure that nobody can collect your personal data from your phone and credit cards is to enclose them a shielding device. One which is, in this case, soft and fully dry-cleanable.
So now that people are more aware of potential risks of wireless identity theft, and I also have a much freer hand to experiment with things at work, I am finally going to be able to bring this idea to market. Some of my Fall 2015 garments will be equipped with a pocket that will be lined with the shielding material and closed with a special zipper that we can only get in Japan so that cards and other devices can be shielded form skimming, but also so that you can zip up all your stuff in a pocket when you chuck your jacket in the x-ray bin at the airport or when traveling through crowded, pickpocket-prone areas. The labs in Germany are now working on other interesting new textile solutions like heated fibers and silver anti-microbial treatments (which have the added bonus of protecting against vampires!) so I am converting part of our design process into an experimental lab to see how some of these developments can be applied in the real world.
My job just got that much more interesting.
Shielding test data on our new copper mesh textile
Monday, January 19, 2015
Shears, continued...
The shears being made in Italy have been cast and are ready for grinding. Then they will be tempered, then the holes drilled for the adjustment screw, then tuning, sharpening, plating, and final assembly. Of course, they are behind schedule, but some things are worth waiting for. Good shears are one of those things.
Wednesday, January 7, 2015
Padded lapels by machine
These days I'm working on a big project, converting a men's suit factory from an entirely fused construction to a half-canvas construction. In fact, to be more technically correct, it should really be called a 2/3 canvas since the coat front we will be using is pretty much identical to a full canvas front but the lower 1/3 of the canvas is omitted. To do this conversion, and generally to bring the factory up to date, we have planned our capital expenditure budget over three years- the very first round of spending being around a million and a half US dollars.
New basters, new sleeve setting machines, new felling machines, new plotters, new pressing equipment, new software, new cloth, new trim, new fits, new patterns... nothing is being left untouched.
While many of the machines have already started arriving so we have begun training people on the new methods, one special set of machines is being made for us in Germany so won't be in for at least another month. The Strobel KA-ED single thread rollpadding machine is a pretty neat piece of equipment. To hand padstitch a lapel the traditional way takes up to an hour per pair, one left and one right. You roll the canvas portion of the lapel over the cloth, invisibly stitching the canvas into place while maintaining the rolled shape, so that the shape will be permanent. A fused lapel has none of this rolling so the shape is pretty limp and lifeless, and has a tendency to curl away from the chest. These machines, however, can execute a similar action, rolling the canvas over the cloth while stitching invisibly, but do so in about a minute. The machines come in pairs, one for the left side and one for the right, and the operator places the coat on the machine, lining up a guide with the roll line of the coat. The machine has sensors which see the start and finish of the cloth, so it knows where to start stitching, and knows where to stop. Beginning at the roll line, it sews a line of invisible stitching, stopping at the top of the lapel, then like a typewriter carriage, stops, returns to the beginning, and rolls the lapel, advancing a row, ready to start the next row of stitching. The operator can place one coat, then forget it, setting up the next machine while the first is sewing. A good operator can run two pairs of machines, or four sewing heads, rotating between each so that one is being set up while three are sewing. In an eight hour day one person could easily do eight to nine hundred coats this way, compared to the six to ten coats you could do if doing them by hand. It comes at a price, though. Each pair of machines costs almost one hundred thousand US dollars.
Padding by hand
Padstitching from Jeffery D on Vimeo.
Grabbed this video from the internet, I think it comes from a Turkish factory, showing an older model of the Strobel machine in action.
Josch of Pattern Design Analyst asked how we will do the shoulder construction. We are changing pretty much every single step of the coat construction, going from a two-shell construction back to a modified open coat construction.
Currently the sleeve head is attached to the sleeve with a shirring machine, then the sleeve is set to the coat, going through the chest piece. Obviously the seam can not be opened so you get a rope shoulder effect which they then attempt to press down. This will all change.
We will have two basic shoulder constructions- one for most of our production and then a softer variant. The basic one be done as follows-
When shaping the fronts we will also measure and trim the canvas in the armhole, leaving the armhole free from the canvas.
Attach shoulder pad to the chest piece with a jump baster.
Later, set sleeve through the coat only, then press the seam open.
Baste the armhole into the chest and shoulder pad from the outside.
Baste the lining around the armhole, then set sleeve head and trim armhole.
Close armhole lining.
For the softer shoulder we will do something similar to a spalla camicia shirt sleeve- set the sleeve as above, sew in a 3/4" bias strip of silesia at the top of the sleeve, and press the sleeve and armhole seam allowances toward the coat.
Baste the armhole into the chest from the outside- the silesia will be used to secure the top of the armhole into the canvas. The rest is the same, but using only a very fine sleeve head (or none at all, depending)
So far we have had decent results. We got in new Durkopp sleeve setting machines yesterday and we like them a lot. We also got a series of finish pressing machines which we will install next week.
Monday, January 5, 2015
Pattern Design Analyst- a new blog worth checking out
Just as some of my favorite internet reading is being wound down (RJdM will be sorely missed, until he finds a new home), a new and worthwhile appearance in the blogosphere:
Written by a senior member of one of the most recognized menswear teams in the world, and someone I have known for almost 20 years, he will offer a fresh new perspective on the discussion of the technical side of menswear, beginning with an examination of the development and use of different types of shoulder pad.
Bookmark it now.
Friday, December 19, 2014
Men of the Cloth in New York City
Men of the Cloth has announced screening dates for the New York area.
Thursday January 8 at 7 pm
City Cinemas Village East
189 Second Avenue at 12th, NY NY
Advance Tickets Available
Wednesday January 14 at 7:30 pm
423 Park Avenue Huntington, Long Island
Advance Tickets Available
Advance Tickets Available
Sunday January 25 at 7pm
175 Wolfs Lane, Pelham NY
Advance Tickets Available
Friday, December 12, 2014
Really hot shears
My shears are in production. And they look hot!
There is now a possibility of a second run, and also the development of a 16" model. Go to this thread on StyleForum to get in on that.
Tuesday, December 2, 2014
Anatomy of a pair of shears
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
Job openings
I was made aware of a job which would have been a great one for me had I a) known about it sooner and b) not already committed to an equally fun new project. So I'm putting it out there in case anyone is interested. I also know of three similar openings in the U.S. but for the sake of discretion, if you're interested, get in touch with me and I'll give you more details.
First job is at Ralph Lauren in Bologna, Italy
Ralph Lauren Corporation (NYSE: RL) is a leader in the design, marketing and distribution of premium lifestyle products in four categories: apparel, home, accessories and fragrances. For more than 44 years, Ralph Lauren's reputation and distinctive image have been consistently developed across an expanding number of products, brands and international markets.
Purpose and Scope: Must have extensive knowledge of men's fine tailoring and patternmaking as well as advanced knowledge in sartorial, semi sartorial and industrial make. Creating and maintaining archives of all RL patterns.
Key Responsibilities:
Responsible for creating and developing protos, sample developments and patterns for Purple Label, Black Label, Polo, RRL, women's MTM - based on the direction from design office in NY
Oversee sample and proto development at different factories.
Overseeing quality control and optimization for pre production and new projects
Fitting and overseeing MTM orders.
Organize and participate in fittings of new protos and for samples for production approval – in NY and Italy.
Extra projects such as needs of Lauren family, VIP made-to-measure and event related projects (Olympic games uniforms, etc.)
Participate during rigging time for showrooms in NY – 2 or more times per year.
Digital archiving for all RL patterns.
Ability to travel
Extensive patternmaking and tailoring experience in high end men's clothing industry
Patternmaking by hand and on computer
Knowledge of computer programs like Investronica to create digital patterns and maintain digital archive.
Knowledge of Microsoft Excel, Microsoft Word, Microsoft Outlook and CAD
Proficient in written and spoken English
Ralph Lauren is an equal opportunity employer. We offer dynamic career opportunities with growth potential and a generous company discount.
Monday, November 24, 2014
Classic Tailoring Techniques, 2nd Edition
Roberto Cabrera's book, Classic Tailoring Techniques is getting a revision!
Cabrera's textbook has long been one of the only references on tailoring, and certainly the best one available to novices. Stanley Hostek wrote a few exhaustive books but they weren't as accessible to learners and Cabrera's book. My one quibble about the Cabrera book was that some of the techniques were somewhat dated, and hopefully this revision will address those issues.
Copies can be pre-ordered, and as of this writing there are 171 days before the release date; I have requested a review copy so I will hopefully have something more useful to say about it soon.
Friday, November 21, 2014
Slim Suits Loosen Up- news from the Wall Street Journal
The Wall Street Journal posted an article this week on the loosening up of the slim suit.
One of the suit lines they mention is Todd Snyder White Label, something new to Nordstrom. I developed that fit for Todd (it's being made in Chicago by Hart Schaffner Marx, the company of which I was VP Design until recently) and long-time readers of this blog (and StyleForum) may find this interesting since it involves a personal journey that started online several years ago. (Hint- it involves DRAPE!)
Like many of my colleagues, I had been trained in the clean-lines school of tailoring, that a well-cut suit should look like polished marble, without rumples or wrinkles or fullness of any sort. The coat should be cut close to the body and be reinforced by canvas and interlining to maintain that cleanliness. I encountered a group of people online who challenged that notion by their adherence to a diametrically-opposed school of tailoring, known by its early-twentieth-century moniker The Drape Cut. A lot of ink has been spilled on the subject, but the reader's digest version of that story is that tailored clothing at the turn of the century was rather close-fitting and followed the natural contours of the male body, the downside to that being that the less ideally-proportioned among us would have those proportions revealed by their clothing. A dutchman named Frederick Scholte who was working on Savile Row at the time was inspired by military greatcoats whose broad shoulders and cinched, belted waists gave the illusion of a more athletic body so he gently extended the shoulder of the suits he cut, increased the fullness in the chest and the top of the sleeve and slimmed down the hip. The resulting sihouette became known os the Drape Cut, the London Drape, or the Blade Cut, and was widely copied around the world, perhaps most visibly by the tailors dressing 1930's Hollywood. Like any trend it became exaggerated to the ugly extremes of the zoot suit and fell out of fashion. Certain houses, such as Savile Row's Anderson and Sheppard, as well as a handful of other tailors like Rubinacci and Alan Flusser have kept the drape alive to a certain extent and we see influences in some of Ralph Lauren's clothing (certainly his own, broad-shouldered suits) and Tom Ford. Most of the examples of it that I had seen on people, however, just looked like sloppy, ill-fitting messes to me so I dismissed it.
Online discussions about the cut revealed a certain amount of passion on both side of the fence, and Nicholas Antongiavanni's riff on Machiavalli, a book titled simply "The Suit" but which extolled the superiority of the drape cut made me a little bit crazy.
Back then I was in the habit of tearing apart interesting clothing so see what I could learn about how they were cut and made (and which partially prompted this blog) and I came across a vintage drape-cut suit from Anderson and Sheppard. It was a pivotal moment for me because once I got past some of the glaring deficiencies in the sewing (a dark period in the history of clothing from which they seem to have recovered), I saw something interesting in the cut. From my post at the time-
"A&S has a possibly unwarranted reputation for cutting shapeless sacks. Certainly the ones I have seen were ugly things. But not this one; instead of wide, droopy shoulders, it has a moderately wide, softly padded shoulder which is in balance with the rest of the garment. And there is a shape. The most shapely garment I have ever examined. A huge drape allowance on the back, and bizarre sleeves. But shape- good shape. So, curious, I tried it on. It's not my size, but I know about putting garments on my body which are not my size.
And then I paused again.
I think I stood looking in the mirror for a full fifteen minutes. Looking past the awful sewing, and some of the stylistic things that bug me, this silhouette did not look bad at all. I even caught myself thinking that if the cloth were not in such rough shape I could cut it down and wear it myself. Then I started moving around, and thought, damn, this thing IS comfortable. Then I had another look at the chest and the drape there. It was not the lumpy chest I was used to seeing, but a nicer fold, a real drape, not just bulk, and I can honestly say that at that moment I got it. I understood it."
I started rethinking my opposition to the principles behind the drape cut and started to do some more research.
Once I had located as much as had been written in tailoring journals dating to the period of the original Drape, I started to synthesize man of the ideas in my head and created an experiment. I would cut myself a draped coat using my own modern drafting style but the vintage pattern manipulations, and wrote about it. The result was far from perfect but I learned a lot if things in the process.
Shortly after that I took over at Hart Schaffner Marx, an old American clothing company, and got to work redoing all the silhouettes and patterns. The company had some boxy silhouettes and had attempted a slim-fit which was poorly received because people felt it was just too tight. I studied all the other garments on the market and found that the slim-cut clothing in general was tight all over. Fine for Hedi Slimane-esque skinny people, but certainly not fine for those with some extra meat on their bones. The other thing I found common in these suits was that the drop was wacky. The drop is the difference between chest size and pant size and the standard is about six inches. A seven inch drop is considered "athletic" so most slim suits carried a 7-inch drop. A size 40 suit would have a size 33 pant instead of a 34, assuming that these slim suit-wearing people had small waists. The thing is, though, that meant that the pant was smaller ALL OVER instead of just in the waist. I had other ideas about that, too.
Whereas slim coats would have a slim waist, but also a narrow shoulder, a small armhole, and a narrow sleeve, I created something with a slim waist, but a slightly extended shoulder, an armhole that was high but wide front to back to allow for a bigger bicep and added a little bit of the dreaded drape to the chest, both front and back. The sleeve was much fuller around the cap to allow for a fuller deltoid, but then slimmed it down at the wrist. In many respects, the description of those first drape models. My first iterations had a trim seat in the coat, but I realized that athletic figures generally had a more prominent seat and thighs, so I needed to give more room for that. And as for the trouser, instead of cutting the smaller size 33 instead of 34, I made a pant that had a smallish waist but had the room to allow for a full seat and thighs, inspired by alterations I was having to do to my jeans. The moderately slim cut we called the New York, and the slimmer, much shorter version we called the Los Angeles.
The Spring 2013 Los Angeles coat looked like this
compared to Dior's slim cut which was one of the biggest influences on slim tailoring-
So when Todd Snyder, who at J. Crew had created the Ludlow suit, came to us at HSM to create his White Label garments, I showed him what I had been doing with these silhouettes and he liked it. I softened up the shoulder of the LA model, he created a lapel shape for it and we developed a cool trim package for the line, and it's now in Norsdtrom stores. I'm now working on a new project and a few new lines of clothing that will appear in stores in Fall 2015 where I will continue to develop ideas about a modern drape cut. So I guess I have to thank Antongiavanni and the Drapists at StyleForum for pushing me in a direction I never would have taken without them. Somewhere, Réjinald Jérome deMans is yelling "I TOLD YOU SO!" at his computer screen.
Wednesday, November 19, 2014
Of cutters, designers, stylists and patternmakers…
There is a discussion going on in another part of the internet and a question was asked which someone felt I may be able to answer. I would rather not wade in to that mess of a discussion, but the question still deserves a bit of an answer. For serious clothing nerds only.
The question revolves around job titles in men's tailored clothing, a business which is, in some respects, stuck in a bit of a time warp. I know a person who was deeply insulted by another colleague who called him a "patternmaker", despite the fact that he does, in fact, make patterns. "Paper cutter" and "calzolaio" (shoemaker) are other, similarly pointed, epithets in the tailoring trade. To understand, we have to back up about 150 years.
Ready-made clothing (and for the purposes of this article I will use the archaic meaning of the term "clothing" to refer exclusively to men's tailored clothing, as opposed to sportswear) was virtually non-existent until the American civil war. A man would get his clothing from his tailor if he could afford one, or it was made in the home. The only things one could buy ready-made was cheap work-wear, made principally for miners, sailors, and slaves. The civil war created a demand for mass-produced uniforms which happened to coincide with the second industrial revolution and an industry was born (more on that another time).
The person at the tailor shop who was responsible for interpreting a person's measurements into cut pieces of fabric to be sewn together was, logically, the cutter. Scores of books had been written at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century on what was known as the art of cutting gentlemen's clothing but what we would today refer to as patternmaking. The early ready-made industry employed cutters to cut clothing according to these new systems which would typically be sent out for sewing. In 1910, a trade organization then known as the National Association of Clothing Designers was incorporated in New York City. From a 1917 report by the U.S. department of trade-
"Very conservative styles of men's clothing are worn in England; the models do not change from one season to another as they do in this country. High-salaried designers are employed by the larger clothing factories in the United States who are constantly introducing attractive styles…"
The "designer" was what we would now call both "stylist" and "head patternmaker". His job was not only to develop new styles but also to determine what he though was a statistical representation of the average human body and to clothe that body. He might study the library of measurements that the government collected when making uniforms for the soldiers in the civil war, or, later, either of the two world wars, and establish that the average American male was of a certain stature and chest size (these days, we are studying vastly larger sets of data provided by body scanners to determine averages and sizing) . A person whose own measurements resembled those averages would be sought to serve as a fit model and the designer would create his styles to fit that person in the same manner as a cutter would in a bespoke house. A first draft of a pattern would be subjected to a number of different trials and fittings until a satisfactory base pattern was produced. Junior designers, or assistants, would be tasked with taking that base pattern and increasing or decreasing the proportions of it to create a set of different sizes in a system known as grading. Those graded pieces had to be traced off on hard paper and individually cut out. Those junior people were often known as "paper cutters".
The job of designer was eventually split in to two different jobs in the nascent sportswear industry, specifically those of stylist and the patternmaker who would interpret the stylist's creations, a split so complete that, these days, a good stylist may have little real understanding of patternmaking and a patternmaker may be a good engineer though completely lacking in taste and creativity. The tailored clothing industry still clings to the nomenclature and job description that existed a hundred years ago so a suit designer is still a patternmaker who may also in some cases work with a stylist, while that stylist would be known as the designer in all other parts of the garment industry. So to call a suit designer a "patternmaker" is to imply that he lacks the necessary taste to execute the job in its entirety. To call a suit designer a "stylist" implies that, despite their good taste, they lack the technical understanding of drafting and tailoring to be capable of actually designing a garment. And to call a tailor or designer a "calzolaio" which, in Italian, means shoemaker, is to imply that their sewing is so crude as to be only suitable for stitching leather and not fine woolens.
Which is all to say that people who make clothing can be temperamental divas sometimes.
But back to the question which concerned the difference between a bespoke cutter and a Ready-to-Wear designer (or patternmaker). The cutter is fitting one specific person while the designer is fitting a hypothetical set of people but will probably employ one real person as representative so the end result , in terms of fit, should ideally be the same. That said, as in the bespoke world where some fitters are better than others, some designers are better than others so ill-fitting ready-to-wear may be the result of either a consumer whose body is very different from the chosen "standard" or it may be that the designer did a lousy job of fitting that standard in the first place. In that respect, the jobs are almost identical. The main difference is that the cutter will leave a lot of adjusting to the tailor so his pattern can be much less precise, and generally is. The tailor may have to baste, adjust, trim, and re-baste a sleeve two, three, four, or more times before they get it into the armhole correctly but once it is in, it is forgotten; in fact, I have heard from a number of different people on and around Savile Row that it is common practice for tailors to have their own sleeve templates to reshape the sleeve caps that are sent to them by the cutter. In a factory setting, the sleeve has to go in correctly on the first try so the designer spends a lot more time perfecting his pattern before it goes anywhere near a cutting table, which is no guarantee of a good sleeve- there are plenty of atrocious sleeves on both ready-to-wear and bespoke garments.
A great bespoke cutter may be a fantastic fitter and produce a perfectly-fitting garment using a pattern which would be an absolute disaster in a factory setting, and a RTW patternmaker could make a pattern which flows beautifully through the shop but which fits nobody. Having some experience on both sides of that cutting table generally produces the best results.
Thursday, November 13, 2014
Samuelsohn Warehouse Sale
For people in and around Montreal, Samuelsohn is having a warehouse sale. Definitely worth a visit.
Friday, November 7, 2014
Good shears are very difficult to come by- they just don't make them anymore. One of the members of Styleforum has located a factory in Italy that still has the molds for 13" shears and is willing to make a batch if they get enough orders. If you're interested, check out the thread here and sign up.
Tuesday, September 2, 2014
Mastered.com- The Savile Row Coat
I am often asked where people can go who wish to learn tailoring and I don't often have much to tell them.
There is so little by way of educational material available to the aspiring tailor, and my feelings on this are mixed. I really do think it's a craft that is best learnt at the hands of an experienced teacher so the few books available should be used as guides for someone undergoing an apprenticeship and not for those who wish to teach themselves. That said, not everyone has access to an experienced tailor and I suppose they have no choice but to turn to the scant material available so the latest arrival to the self-tutelage sphere will be welcome to many.
Andrew Ramroop, of the justly famous Maurice Sedwell of Savile Row has teamed up with Mastered.com to produce an online, self-guided course in tailoring. Video lessons and some very handsome photography are provided along with supporting print material. In a smart move, Mr. Ramroop shows a technique, then his assistant does it. This gives the viewer the benefit of seeing an experienced master do, and then seeing some of the mistakes that he or she is likely to make and teh corrections as suggested by the teacher. Of course, not every possible misstep is covered, but students are encouraged to upload photos or other evidence of their work for evaluation by Mr. Ramroop. Certainly not failsafe but better than a book alone.
So far the site has been fairly quiet but I imagine that once more students sign up there will be more discussion, and I look forward to seeing future lessons.
The Savile Row Coat
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
An interesting read about craftsmanship
I'm back, sort of.
The last few months have been crazy with moving and starting a new job in the southern United States but I hope I can start picking up where I left off.
First up, an interesting read that voxsartoria was kind enough to bring to my attention. I am happy and envious in equal parts that someone was able to express so well something that I have been struggling to convey for years. In short,
Craft means skill; and handcraft for its own sake is as much an enemy of good craftsmanship as bad mass-production. It would be a hard thing if human beings, having taught robots to speak like Shakespeare, could only prove their voices human by learning to stutter.
Spectator Archive
Though it was voxsartoria who brought it to my attention, all credit for unearthing the article must go to RJMan. I stand corrected.
Thursday, April 10, 2014
Men of the Cloth come to Chicago
Another film screening coming up, this time in Chicago!
Here's the press release-
The documentary Men of the Cloth will make its debut in Chicago on April 28, 2014, in Chicago Cultural Center's Claudia Cassidy Theater, 78 E. Washington. The film by Vicki Vasilopoulos is an inspiring portrait of three Italian master tailors.
Doors will open at 5 p.m., and the screening of Men of the Cloth will begin at 5:30 p.m. Following the film at 7:15 p.m., a panel of tailors and menswear experts will discuss the film and the bespoke industry, led by Trideep Das, managing director of JollyBrowne. The panel will include director Vicki Vasilopoulos, Nicholas Hansen of Nicholas Joseph, bespoke tailor Chris Despos, Jeffery Diduch of the Made By Hand blog and Vice President of Technical Design at Hart Schaffner Marx, head tailor Joseph Genuardi of Martin Greenfield Clothiers, and master tailor Rocco Giovannangelo of Oxxford Clothes. A reception will conclude the evening. The event is free and open to the public and students.
The film centers around Nino Corvato, Joe Centofanti, and Checchino Fonticoli, master tailors who have spent a lifetime perfecting the skills necessary to construct flawless custom-made suits for their clients in New York City, Philadelphia and Penne, Italy. Now in the twilight of their career, they fear that their Old-World knowledge will vanish with them. Enter Joe Genuardi, a tailoring apprentice who reflects the resurgence of popular interest in artisanal craftsmanship as an alternative to corporate mass production, providing hope for the future of this craft.
Men of the Cloth is structured like a triptych: each character's story gives us an insight into the past, present and future of their craft. We see the intimate connection with their tools and the tactile nature of their trade as they work in studied concentration: sewing, pressing, cutting, marking, and pinning. The whir of the sewing machine, the clank of the steam iron, and the sharp slicing of the tailor's scissors create an aural symphony. These artisans cherish their interactions with their clients. And as they go about their daily tasks, they share observations that are, by turns, nostalgic, poignant and humorous. Men of the Cloth unravels the mystery of the tailor's artistry, and how he fashions a garment in such a way that it moves and breathes with the person who's wearing it.
Director/producer Vicki Vasilopoulos was Senior Fashion Editor at DNR, the men's news magazine (now a part of Women's Wear Daily). Vasilopoulos was also a contributor to Fashion Wire Daily and has had features published in The New York Times, Esquire, Time Out New York and New Jersey Monthly. She has served as a film series programmer for New York Women in Film and Television. She is also a member of the Independent Filmmaker Project and the American Society of Journalists and Authors. Vasilopoulos graduated from NYU with a B.A. in Journalism and has studied at the Paris Fashion Institute in France and at The Fashion Institute of Technology.
The Men of the Cloth screening will be hosted by the Fashion Studies Department of Columbia College Chicago and sponsored by the Department of Cultural Affairs and Special Events, Mayor's Fashion Council Chicago, Oxxford Clothes, and Nicholas Joseph.


text:
E 8 Mile Rd / Regent Dr median real estate price is $60,855, which is less expensive than 90.1% of Michigan neighborhoods and 95.3% of all U.S. neighborhoods.
The average rental price in E 8 Mile Rd / Regent Dr is currently $866, based on NeighborhoodScout's exclusive analysis. The average rental cost in this neighborhood is higher than 67.0% of the neighborhoods in Michigan.
E 8 Mile Rd / Regent Dr is an urban neighborhood (based on population density) located in Detroit, Michigan.
E 8 Mile Rd / Regent Dr real estate is primarily made up of medium sized (three or four bedroom) to small (studio to two bedroom) single-family homes and townhomes. Most of the residential real estate is owner occupied. Many of the residences in the E 8 Mile Rd / Regent Dr neighborhood are older, well-established, built between 1940 and 1969. A number of residences were also built before 1940.
E 8 Mile Rd / Regent Dr has a 16.8% vacancy rate, which is well above average compared to other U.S. neighborhoods (higher than 78.5% of American neighborhoods). This could either signal that there is weak demand for real estate in the neighborhood, or that much of the housing stock is seasonally occupied, which can occur in some markets dominated by colleges or vacation homes. Either way, if you live here year round, you will find many of the homes or apartments are empty for all or a portion of the year.


text:
Heino's Feedback on 9-Day China Tour
Client: Heino Ask Heino about her/his experience | Age: Unknown | Nationality: Germany |
Tour Date: October 20, 2011 - October 28, 2011 | ||
FeedBack Date: November 4, 2011 | ||
Itinerary: 9 Days Shanghai, Chongqing, Yangtze, Yichang, Suzhou Tour |
Hi Delia,
I would like to thank you for your job. say that it was our second trip with China Highlights, and this time was very mermorable for us as well!
The Boat trip in Zhouzhuang water town and the trip with the Maglev in Shanghai was the most memorable.
All guides and drivers were very good and very helpful, and all hotels were good, we enjoyed many dishes new to us. The Pan Pacific in Souzhou was the best hotel I have ever experienced.The food in restaurants were excellent, could not be better.
We liked the old market town near the place where we saw the acrobatic show in Shanghai. Also a good place to have dinner.
The acrobatic show in Shanghai with dinner in the nearby market town. The boat trip in Zhouzhuang. The snow emerald cave on the bank of the Yangtse (950 steps to climb, but can be managed even by elderly persons because the walkway is very safe).
We were fascinated by the NEW town of Souzhou with its gigantic IT park. This place is really prepared for the future. We also appreciated a walk in the Panmen Gate Garden behind the Pan Pacific Hotel.
I always recommend my friends to contact your company for trips to China.
The Real Evaluation for the Destionation(s)
- Shanghai
- Chongqing
- Suzhou
- Yangtze
Yuyuan Garden | 4 | |
Shanghai Museum | 4 | |
The Bund | 5 | It was very beautiful |
The Shanghai World Financial Center | 5 |
Old Shanghai Restaurant(Lunch) | 4 |


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Looking for a Indigo Ink rear bumper to trade for my chrome one
Mine is stock and in great condition. I am in San Diego and am willing to meet up within reasonable distance to make the trade.
this is the only pic i have of it. They are from the day i got the truck


text:
Posted October 21 2008 - 06:42 AM
I've just registered here after reading a few good topics and realising there are some good advice going out so I feel I might aswell have a few things to say.
The Question:
I enjoy anal sex myself but I find that depth is an issue. I have seen and heard many things about how far toys can go inside to get that real 'fulfilment feeling' and im just wondering ... how far is it really?
I know its a good idea to go to the toilet before doing anything as it cleans you out and means you dont bump into anything but even then i find theres not much depth going on.
One video in particular got my attention which was a women who had a 19" jelly dildo which was VERY flexible and belive it or not she had managed to get the whole thing inside (although might be fake).
I find there is only usually about 3 to 4" in before it either turns or theres 'more' up there if you know what i mean >_> so tell me...
a) how far on average do toys go in before they stop?
b) how can you clean out any 'leftovers' inside?
c) do you know if its possible to go much further than 3-4" and if so, how?
If you can please explain this in as much detail as possible as websites all over the place never explain this situation.
I hope sarahei can reply to this as he/she (i think she) has made some quite good and helpful replies to other topics. there are 2 others and hope can reply to this too
Posted October 21 2008 - 11:08 AM
Posted October 21 2008 - 01:31 PM
Posted October 21 2008 - 04:44 PM
Posted October 22 2008 - 01:07 AM
my diet is mostly the same every day, which us usualy 1 meal (i know thats bad) but its often either pasta bake, roast dinner or sausage eggs beans n chips >_> i guess that doesnt help with the whole 'cloggage' deal then.
Posted October 24 2008 - 03:17 PM
Posted October 25 2008 - 06:35 PM
Posted October 29 2008 - 10:57 PM
come on anyone? even those of you reading this im sure some of you have done anal!! whats the depth cuz i want to know if its just me or is everyone getting the same? what depth can you get from anal??
You know what a White Owl Blunt is? I managed to get a tube inside completely once... There are twists and turns inside... It takes some time to get relaxed enough to navigate them.
Posted October 31 2008 - 05:51 PM
Make sure you are clear, and then take a shower and use the little enema. If you have to go, go. Then get back in the shower and repeat.
My wife can handle the whole shaft. It's the begging and whining for anal sex she can't handle.
Posted November 21 2008 - 11:26 PM
with a hard object your probably won't get much further than 6-7 inches
Posted November 26 2008 - 02:14 AM
It depends on what toy you are using and on the width of the toy. The smaller the width then the further you can probably insert the toy. eg my gf can easily take 11 inches of anal beads because they are small but she can only take 6 inches of her but plug as the width is much bigger, about 2 inches
b) how can you clean out any 'leftovers' inside?
Use and enema or a douche which can be bought on the net. You can get one's that you can attach to the end of a shower which are good for cleaning but can be a bit of a messy process (but worth it!)
c) do you know if its possible to go much further than 3-4" and if so, how?
Yes it is. My advice would be to start off small and work your way up and use lots and lots of lube!
hope this helps!
Posted November 26 2008 - 06:38 PM
I have personally had an intestinal examination via the anus at the local hospital, where a camera was inserted & I remember being astounded at how far it was able to go. Without any exaggeration, the pipe was easily inserted over a metre before reaching the area that was to be examined - and even then there wouldn't heve been any difficulty in going any further.
However, this examination did involve plenty of lubricant with local anaesthetic mixed in with it.
Posted November 26 2008 - 10:12 PM
Posted December 01 2008 - 04:40 AM
Posted January 14 2009 - 01:37 PM
Posted January 15 2009 - 05:58 AM
Posted January 25 2009 - 07:44 AM
Steve MD
Posted January 25 2009 - 03:33 PM
Posted January 25 2009 - 03:43 PM
☠ॐЮåg0Иf£yॐ ☠
Posted January 26 2009 - 04:36 AM
Posted February 17 2009 - 12:55 PM
Posted March 04 2009 - 03:45 AM
Posted March 06 2009 - 05:21 AM
Posted March 06 2009 - 07:20 AM
Posted March 08 2009 - 12:10 AM
Posted March 08 2009 - 08:18 AM
Well, I didn't mention she was in what looked liked a nasty old gas station restroom and that prior to shoving the handle up her ass she was masturbating with an old toilet brush. Didn't really turn me on.
I've seen everything from eggplants to baseball bats go up a woman's ass. If it's not a toy sanctioned by the Porn Stars Guild, a cock, or a finger, I'm not interested. That goes for fists too. It just looks too painful.
It's on redtube. Look it up and see what you think and get back to me.
Posted March 08 2009 - 07:00 PM
Posted March 12 2009 - 11:44 PM
ive seen it
personaly 6 to 7 inches will work
Posted March 14 2009 - 12:07 PM
Posted March 19 2009 - 03:13 PM


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Easter Craft eBook: Blogger Edition
Bonus: Get our newsletter & special offers for free. We will not share or sell your email address. View our Privacy Policy
Foam Egg Magnet
This quick and easy egg magnet project is great to do with your kids for Easter.
- Blue & Yellow Fun Foam- Westrim
- Magnet backing sheet
- Fiskars paper edgers- wide scallop
- 4x6 Treasure Tape Sheet
- Diamond Beadlets
- Mrs. K's Dimensional Threads: Gold Braid Assortment, Light Blue Ribbon Assortment
- Using a template, trace an egg shape onto the white backer side of your tape. Cut out the egg. Peel back the white backer and apply the egg shape to your foam and press out from the center with your fingers, to smooth out any air bubbles.
- Cut out the shape. Peel back the white liner on the remaining part of your tape sheet and place your foam shape, foam side down, on the tape. Cut out the egg shape again. Now you have an egg shape with tape on both sides. Peel the liner off one side of your shape, and place it on your magnet sheet. Cut out the egg again.
- Peel the red liner off your heart shape and begin to embellish. Use the paper edgers to make scalloped strips of yellow foam. Using their edges as a guide, create stripes in blue and yellow. Finish with zigzag or loop designs.
- When finished embellishing, use your red liner to press all threads firmly into the tape. Place your egg in a tray or ziploc bag and pour Diamond Beadlets over the exposed tape. Swirl with your fingers to cover fully. Tap to remove excess beadlets.
Kreinik threads available through needlework stores or www.kreinik.com.
For more great Easter craft ideas, check out our free Easter craft eBook.
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