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Several years ago, Charleston became a home port for Carnival Cruise Lines. As a result, the number of cruise ships and passengers has increased exponentially, creating significant impacts throughout the National Historic Landmark district. Though the City of Charleston and the Ports Authority voluntarily agreed in 2010 to cap the number of visits by ships, the agreement is not legally binding. Citing the potential threat that uncontrolled tourism poses to the city's fragile infrastructure and historic character, the National Trust placed Charleston on "watch status" when its list of America's 11 Most Endangered Historic Places was announced in 2011.
National Significance
Charleston has long been recognized as one of the most beautiful cities in the nation, with a distinguished record of outstanding historic preservation and tourism management. The National Trust believes that sponsoring a cruise tourism impact study, providing a legal review of enforcement authority on cruise tourism, and participating in community dialogue will help Charlestonians develop tools to protect their city's rich cultural heritage. The lessons learned in Charleston can also help other communities address challenges associated with growing cruise tourism.
Campaign Goals
- Define enforceable limits on the size, number, and frequency of cruise ships visiting the city's piers.
Ways To Help
Tell us why Charleston matters to you.
Written by Virgil McDill, Project Manager
We had some good news recently in our efforts to limit cruise ship traffic in Charleston.
As readers of this update are aware, a U.S. Federal Court ruling issued last year vindicated our claim that the Army Corps must consider the adverse effects of the cruise ship terminal on the adjacent historic district in Charleston. By insisting that the Army Corps take a broader look at nearby historic places before issuing permits, the ruling reinforced our long-standing conviction that the Corps must do a better job complying with federal preservation laws, which protect thousands of historic places across the country.
While the Army Corps and the South Carolina Ports Authority initially sought to appeal this ruling, the National Trust and our preservation allies were pleased that the Army Corps and the Ports Authority have recently dropped their appeal and announced that they will instead start the permit process over.
This is welcome news. As this recent editorial in the Charleston Post and Courier endorsing the decision to abandon the appeal in favor of re-starting the permit process notes, this approach will allow the Corps and the Ports Authority to "take the high road" by adopting "a process that allows the public to ask questions and have input into the SPA project."
While we still have a ways to go in this effort, but we're encouraged that re-starting the permit process and giving the public the ability to make their voices heard, is a step in the right direction.
Yesterday, in a victory for preservationists, the U.S. District Court in Charleston ruled that the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers failed to follow the National Historic Preservation Act in granting a permit to allow a massive cruise ship terminal to be built on the Charleston waterfront.
Because of this failure to follow the law, we expect that the judge's written order will revoke the permit, which means the project cannot go forward until the terminal's impact on historic resources is taken into account.
This is a significant win for preservationists not only in Charleston, but nationwide, because it reinforces other court rulings that the Army Corps must take into account nearby historic properties that could be severely harmed when evaluating the impacts of proposed developments.
Needless to say, we are pleased with this outcome and are grateful to our local partners for their efforts to secure this ruling.
Written by John Hildreth, Project Manager
The cities of Charleston and Savannah are both wrestling with the issue of cruise ships in their communities: Charleston on how best to accomodate an existing and growing presence of the industry; Savannah on whether or not they want to make the investment to attract more cruise ships.
The action now is in the courts, which means there are long periods of time when there is no visible action. Recently, however, the SC Supreme Court took action on the case before them. The Charleston Post and Courier ran a story on that action. I have asked our lead attorney, Will Cook, for his thoughts on where the things stand:
SC Supreme Court: The court has adopted the recommendation of the special master to dismiss the environmental, height/noise/sign ordinance claims, which we didn't support. However, the Nuisance and Zoning claims, three in all, were accepted. In addition we've been asked by the supreme court to submit a brief addressing the standing of the plaintiffs to sue and the city's legal authority to regulate, issues raised by Carnival. We don't know, yet, if oral arguments will be ordered prior to a decision.
Federal lawsuit: The existing suit against the Army Corps of Engineers over their inappropriate application of Section 106 of the National Historic Preservation Act proceeds. We will file our amicus brief in federal court mid-July in support of the Preservation Society of Charleston, Historic Ansonborough, and Charlestown Neighborhood Ass'n. We will likely have a decision on the merits by late Fall 2013. Regardless of the ruling, there will be an appeal.
State Court: There is also an anticipated second state court lawsuit with similar parties against SC Department of Health and Environmental Control that is similar to the federal lawsuit, but based on state law and state regulations. Our participation is to be determined because the administrative appeal process to the DHEC Board is ongoing. Once this is complete, the case will move to state court, at which point we'll have an amicus role.
After 4 years of study and debate the Savannah City Council recently voted unanimously not to fund further study on the construction and location of a cruise terminal for the city. This action effectively kills the project since the Georgia Ports Authority is not interested in utilizing their holdings for a terminal.
The Savannah Morning News ran a story summarizing the issue. It is worth noting that the experiences of other communities left high and dry by the cruise industry influenced the council's decison.
Please check back often for additional updates on Charleston. Also, donate today to support the National Trust's ongoing work at this National Treasure.
Written by John Hildreth, Project Manager
Part of our work in addressing Cruise Tourism impacts in Charleston is providing opportunity for dialogue. We have an interesting piece of dialogue for you today.
About the time our symposium "Harboring Tourism" on cruise tourism and historic port communities was winding up, the Carnival Cruise ship Triumph was suffering through its well publicized disaster in the Gulf of Mexico. Since that time Carnival has not received a lot of good news . . . or press. The Charleston Post and Courier ran the following editorial recently that not only cataloged Carnival's woes, but made a rather humorous conclusion. While our efforts to help enact regulations to help communities get the right scale for cruise tourism are not directed at Carnival, per se, we thought you might enjoy the following:
Carnival's Choppy Seas
Posted: Thursday, March 21, 2013 12:01 a.m.
It just keeps getting worse for Carnival Cruise Lines.
The month after the nightmare cruise of the Triumph, adrift for five days while 3,000 passengers were subjected to rotting food, no working toilets and no air conditioning, there was more bad news.
Carnival's Dream was stranded in Saint Maarten after an emergency generator failed, overflowing toilets and causing power outages. More than 4,000 passengers were flown back to Florida.
The same week Carnival's Elation had to be escorted by a tugboat back to New Orleans because of problems with its steering.
And Carnival's Legend cut short the cruise for more than 2,000 passengers when it experienced technical issues with its propulsion system.
But the embarrassment, financial losses and headaches didn't end there for the corporation whose Fantasy cruise ship is based in Charleston.
This week Sen. Jay Rockefeller, D-W.Va., sent Carnival a bill for $4 million to cover Coast Guard and Navy bailouts of the Splendor in 2010 and the Triumph last month. The bill came with a chiding letter from him in his capacity as chairman of the Committee on Commerce, Science and Transportation:
"In just the past five years I am aware of 90 serious events that have occurred on your cruise ships."
Now Sen. Chuck Schumer, D-N.Y., wants the travel industry to create a standard passenger bill of rights so cruise passengers know what is expected — and what forms of redress are available — when things go wrong.
And as if to forestall the government from imposing standards on the ships' mechanical capabilities, Carnival has canceled Triumph's next 10 cruises while improvements are made to its inadequate fire prevention and backup systems.
That isn't the end.
Carnival's image has suffered. It has even been added to the list of contestants in the Consumerist Worst Companies in America Tournament.
Last year video game giant Electronic Arts took home the Golden Poo trophy and Bank of America was second for the Silver Poo. This year, some think Carnival stands a good chance of "winning" in its first time around.
The tournament is structured like the NCAA basketball tournament, and in the first bracket Carnival is up against United Airlines with winners determined by online voting.
Oh, one more thing: Advance bookings for 2013 are behind the same point a year earlier.
Maybe Charleston residents and those historic preservation organizations concerned because no limits have been imposed on the number or size of cruise ships coming to Charleston won't have to worry so much after all. (Photo by Gerald Herbert)
So, that is our dialogue for today. Please check back often for additional updates on Charleston. Also, donate today to support the National Trust's ongoing work at this National Treasure.
Emilea on February 01, 2014 I have been coming to Charleston and Seabrook sense I was very little. It wasn't into very recently I realized the beauty and historical suffinicance of it. The modern part is cool, but I like the old part with the old style houses and ironwork. I was also happy on my last trip down there to see a duple 1st National Flags flying. Keep them up! Charleston wouldn't be the same without the old part and I might even loose some of my interest. If it became run down, it would loose a lost of the forest income. I LOVE Charleston and will make sure to do all I can to preserve it and we hope you will too!! |
Raymond Samuel on August 16, 2013 I was born here in South Carolina and I have a great love and respect for this state, and Charleston was the first major city in the state, it is special. I own A&B Janitorial Services LLC here in Charleston, and we also do Property Presavations, we would like to volenteer with some of the resturations if needed. Our phone number is (843) 499-4225. Thanks for your time and concidration |
K. Nickless, Ladson, SC on June 09, 2012 My favorite cities are Charleston and Venice, Italy. Both have a rich maritime history and a visceral link to the water that surrounds and envelops them. Both struggle with the pressures of tourism. Charleston is home. The view from a sailboat on the harbor has barely changed since Audubon painted Long Billed Curlews in the marsh. In 2009, Venetians staged a mock funeral, declaring Venice dead, killed by tourism. Not Charleston. It will live, balancing tourism and history. La dolce vita! |


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I'm putting together a fantasy baseball league on sportsline.com and am looking to see if anyone is interested. It's a free league so the stats/setup/blah blah is not fully controllable, but it is going to be 10 teams, head-to-head, live draft (Sunday March 18), both AL/NL player pool. PM me your email address if you want in and I'll send you the link to join. No abandoned teams!!!! You will suffer multiple contaminated batches if you are that ass who drafts a team then never checks it!!!
How much work is involved? I want to do fantasy baseball, but can't babysit a team. I'd do a structure where we updated like once a week, for example (I've only done - and damn near won - fantasy football, not baseball, so I'm clueless).
Ya, I'm interested, but I'd like to know the details. From what I understand, some baseball leagues require daily attention while others are a little more casual.
this is a weekly league - set your roster by sunday night and it's fixed for the next week. it's head-to-head, so you'd be matched up against another team. whichever team accumulated the most points (offense + pitching) gets a win. Two divisions, rankings based upon win/loss records. i would not call it a high maintenance league by any means -should be pretty laid back!!
Sounds fun - how does the draft work? Are there rules you can link us to that shows how scoring works? You can count me in - I'd love to play. Sending my PM now
I'm not gonna do baseball.....really high maintenance. FS--def lookign forward to some FFB though!
I'm in. Here's a stupid little thing; is this auto-draft or live? I honestly prefer auto, even though it's lame, since I haven't been following baseball that closely, I don't know the players all that well.
Here is a link to the league rules (i'm logged in at the site so hopefully this link doesn't require that you already are signed up.....let me know if so)http://freemeeting.1.baseball.sports.../meeting/rules The draft is a live draft, but you can pre-rank your players and just have the computer go after them if you want or can't make it at that time. The draft is 7:00PM on Sunday, March 18. dude - it's on. i have a decent idead as to how your draft order would go.
Duh - I see the draft answer. Is this an all-home brewers league? We gonna do a home brew bet similar to Football?


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*Slightly edited version* 22/08/2012
"The Era of procrastination, of half-measures, of soothing and baffling expedients, of delays, is coming to a close. In its place, we are entering a period of consequences."
Winston Churchill
I think it would be wise to fill you guys in with the background details before I start my story, seeing as the version from the government is not true.
The third world war broke out on the 2nd March 2082, the cause behind it is now lost in history. When the war first started everyone thought it would end in just a few short months, but man, were they wrong.
The truth is, it probably would have, if it weren't for the interference of a terrorist group who called themselves The Apocalypse. Very original, right? However, they were very dedicated to their course and had masses amount of weapons at their disposal. They were also very discrete about what they do, they didn't publicize themselves, nor have they launched any form of attacks. Instead they tricked different governments to think that they were under attack from each other while it was they who were behind all the attacks to begin with. Come to think of it, it was probably them who started the war.
A truce was made on 10th September 2083, when the governments realised that they were playing right into their true enemy's hands all these times. There were many casualties, but they were minuscule compared to what was about to come next. However the damage this war had caused was enough to cast half the world into turmoil.
And that's when the Apocalypse's plan truly began. They started to recruit in large numbers, creating all kinds of bio weapons, convincing people that WW3 is all their government's fault and that the peace would not last long, and they must fight back for this to end. All the while they were set destroying the human race because they believed only when the Earth is wiped clean again could we seek redemption.
When the world finally realised their true intentions it was almost too late. The weapons they created – so called World-Enders, an improved version of nuclear bombs, each one capable of killing every living creature across half of America and destroy even more beyond.
Luckily they had limited numbers of bombs in their hands because of all the rare elements needed to create them. They decided they should seek council from God and use co-ordinates from him as to where the bomb should be detonated. One in Tulita, North West territories, Canada; One in Creston, Iowa, US; One in Cuiaba, Brazil; One in Ikela, Central Africa Republic; One in Buyaki, Russia and another one in the south west; One in Hawaii and a final one in Beijing, China in 4th April, 2092.
The effect was devastating; billions were killed, especially in America and Canada. Even more were exposed to extremely high levels of radiation and the whole world was in a state of panic. Communication system collapsed; many hospitals, labs and resources were destroyed and the human population faced the worst famine, epidemic and chaos in history of life.
Without the restriction of law enforcement and driven by desperation, the people began to fight each other for the limited resources that was left. Food, medication, and shelter – it was the most terrifying ten years in history. The damage varied in each country, for example in places that was hit less harsh, such as Australia, order was restored within the year. As for places like Africa and America, it wasn't until ten years later did the chaos stop, and it was only because most of the population had died off.
Unknown to the general public, however, a space ship were built secretly after third world war by several governments together in fear that this might one day occurred. A secret operative who had infiltrate the Apocalypse tipped the American government off and together with the EU, Chinese and Russians governments they filled the space ships with important technologies, top scientists, precious artifacts, along with other important people and machinery were sent off the space in 2090 in fear that this might happened.
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Tax Sale: Buying and Arming Yourself With Information
If you have the dedication and the funds to get started, you can make a decent second income or even a living purchasing through tax sale events. Here are some things you need to know about getting into the business.
If you have the dedication and the funds to get started, you can make a decent second income or even a living purchasing through tax sale events. These sales take place when a homeowner has failed to pay their taxes to the government and a lien has been put on the property. The government wants to get what it can out of the property and that means they will sell either the property or the lien to a third-party. For you, it can mean making big purchases for a fraction of the worth. If you can then turn around and make a profit, which you often can, you can see how it can easily add up. Here are some things you need to know about getting into the business.
UGGs Sale Cheap UGGs Sale Cheap Unless you have a good source of listings,clearance uggs, youll need to get creative when it comes to finding your next tax sale. That could mean going to the courthouse and looking through all of the upcoming listings, orbetter yetit could mean making some nice connections through real estate agents, banks,kids uggs clearance, and those who work in the government. An inside source at the sheriffs department might not be a bad thing to have, either. Of course, these sources arent easy to come by, but youll need some way of getting that information.
UGGs Sale Cheap UGGs Sale Cheap Before the day of the tax sale, do your own independent research. The government sells these properties as is, and there wont be any opportunity for a refund if you dont like what youve bought. That means you need to be sure beforehand. The government listings rarely go out of their way to explain much about the property. Use a title search and sources to make sure the property is in good standings and that you arent inheriting a bunch of debt in a lot of different places.
UGGs Sale Cheap UGGs Sale Cheap Keep in mind that a tax sale is not a lay-a-way program. You need to have the money right then and there. Dont make a bid you cant afford to cover by at least the end of the bidding day. That means taking into consideration any and all costs associated with the sale. You be able to get a loan to cover the purchase,uggs boots clearance, but this needs to be handled before you make your bid. If you default on the purchase, youre likely to be locked out of future auctions.


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Key to life
Jan. 10, 2011 at midnight
Updated Jan. 10, 2011 at 7:11 p.m.
Pie Crust:
9-inch pie plate
11/4 cups of Keebler Graham Cracker crumbs
3 Tbsp. of sugar
1/3 cup of melted butter
1 tsp. cinnamon
Pie Filling:
21 ounces sweetened condensed milk (11/2 cans of Eagle Brand)
9 ounces Nellie and Joe's Famous Key West Lime Juice (juice aisle H-E-B/yellow plastic bottle)
5 large egg yolks
5 Tbsp. sugar
5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
Zest of 1 lime finely grated
Raspberry Sauce:
24 ounces of fresh raspberries (reserve a few for garnish)
3/4 cup of sugar
1/2 cup brandy
Whipped cream
Crust: combine crumbs, sugar and cinnamon in medium bowl. Stir in melted butter until thoroughly blended. Pack mixture firmly into a 9-inch pie plate and press firmly to bottom and sides, bringing crumbs evenly up to the rim. Bake in 350 degree oven for 8-10 minutes. Remove and cool.
Pie filling: Combine all pie filling ingredients in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Pour into cooled crust and bake at 300 degrees until center is set about 25-30 minutes. Refrigerate uncovered until cold, then cover and chill for at least 6 hours or overnight.
Raspberry sauce: Place raspberries and sugar into a sauce pan, slowly bring to a boil. Simmer until berries are all broken into a sauce. Add brandy, simmer another 2 minutes. While still warm, strain sauce to remove seeds. To serve, place some sauce on each dessert plate with a slice of pie on top. Top slice with whipped cream and garnish with raspberries.
By Myra Starkey
Most everyone has lots of people they know on a casual basis, but there are a much smaller number who we might consider as actual friends. And most likely, there is only a handful of folks who we would count as intimate friends. Close friends come over to your house and eat, and then you all sit around and talk for several hours at the table until you realize it's way late, but nobody was looking at their watch. True friends tell you how they feel and don't just say that "everything's fine." You know their problems, and they know yours, and you still like each other just the same. Good friends are people who you can get together with, and when they ask what activities are planned, you can tell them that nothing is planned other than just hanging around, so bring a book to read and maybe some tennis shoes in case we go on a walk.
It seems we are all on this highway we call life. And we buzz down the road in our bus full of family and friends and we see nameless strangers who pass by our window going the other direction to places we never know. Sometimes we peer out and see folks who look just like us, and their bus is going down the same road at the same speed in the next lane, and we wonder how our lives might be different if we knew them.
There are so many people who I wish I knew better if I only had the time. Susan and Bob are a couple who Taylor and I have known for many years, but we have just never gotten together. They are about our same age. They have two boys and a girl just like we do. Both husbands are local physicians, and both Susan and I worked in our husbands' medical practice. Their youngest son, Ryan, is good friends with our oldest two kids, and despite all of these similarities, we have never spent any time together as couples. It takes a lot of effort to step outside my comfort box and make new friends, especially when I am so comfortable with my "old" friends.
Last year, I planned and carried out Hannah's wedding without any major glitches. All of a sudden, I had valuable knowledge to share with other "mothers of the bride." I had researched everything from wedding dresses to flowers, from invitations to printed napkins, and not wanting any of this to go to waste, I kept a small diary just hoping someone would ask me to help! Within weeks of the wedding, several of my friends had weddings to plan for their daughters, and I had something I could share. Susan's daughter, Erin, had gotten engaged, and she called to ask me a couple of questions, and once again our paths crossed. We met several times to talk about her daughter's wedding, and each time I felt that I would really like to get to know her better.
We planned to meet several times for dinner with husbands, but schedules always got in the way and months passed. Our plans for dinner had failed at the last minute several times, so I thought maybe an impromptu dinner might work and called a few days ago to see if they would join us for seafood at our house. I wanted to prepare a poblano chile stuffed with shrimp, goat cheese and panela. Bob is an accomplished cook, and Susan volunteered him to prepare an appetizer and dessert.
The next day, I was running short of time and did not get to "clean house." Normally, if I am entertaining someone for the first time, I make a huge effort to make sure everything is tidy. On the other hand, when entertaining old friends, I do not let much bother me. I have been known to push papers and books to one end of the dining room table and set the opposite end for dinner. Bob and Susan felt like old friends, so I did not bother with dusting or cleaning windows and instead concentrated on my entree.
Bob brought a seared tuna appetizer served on a whole grain cracker. He made a schmear of cream cheese, chili and pepper and topped it with a thin slice of tuna. Delicious! His dessert was equally wonderful, a smooth key lime pie with a graham cracker crust topped with whipped cream and placed on a raspberry coulis. The tartness of the lime paired with the sweet red raspberry sauce was the perfect end to our evening. We talked for hours just like old friends. We shared cooking tips and recipes and talked about our children.
I asked Bob for his secret pie recipe, and he agreed to send it and even left me the rest of the pie so I could use it for this week's photograph. I could barely stay away from consuming it. You know the feeling when you have something delicious in the refrigerator and you take just one bite at a time, and suddenly you realize you have almost eaten it all, one fork full at a time.
I encourage you to step out of your comfort zone and invite someone new to dinner. Call that person who you keep telling, "We really need to get together soon." Your life will be richer for it.
Myra Starkey lives in Victoria. Write her in care of the Advocate, P.O. Box 1518, Victoria, TX 77901, or e-mail email@example.com.


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Duraforce Re-jetting Instructions Part 2
Thanks to Tom_P_PA for the first 100 post thread, this to be a continuation of which I repost the instructions in this first post. Only 100 posts are allowed per Subject
Also, the mikuni on the suzuki 2 stroke part number is 81-1030 which is matches the Duraforce "37.5" jet and is a #40.
1) Get a NEW main jet and pilot jet. Part numbers are 98-1357 and 98-7041. Also, get the paper gaskets (1 for the carb body and 2 for the heat shield), get a fuel line and in line fuel filter.
2) Note that the main jet 98-1357 is called a "77.5" jet. The "77.5" jet is the jet orifice size in one-thousands of a centimeter. The closest drill bit size is a #68 wire gauge drill bit whose diameter is 0.031 inch (and it fits into the orifice, and #67 does not).
3) Note that the pilot jet 98-7041 is called a "37.5" jet. Again, the "37.5" is the jet orifice size in one-thousands of a centimeter. The closest drill bit size is a #79 wire gauge drill bit whose diameter is 0.0145 inch (and it fits into the orifice, and #78 does not).
4) Get a wire gauge drill set (from #80 to #60), or better still, get drill sizes #66 (0.033 inch) and/or #67 (0.032 inch) for the main jet and #78 (0.0160 inch) for the pilot jet. You will need a hand chuck to mount these tiny drills. Do not use power tools. This results in an approximately 10% increase in the orifices for both jets. 10% is all that is needed.
5) Carefully hand drill the jets, apply gentle pressure. Note that the pilot jet center hole is to be drilled ONLY. Do not drill through the body of the jet, drill out only the 37.5 orifice. Use the #78 drill to oversize the pilot jet orifice (it is the first oversize). To oversize the main jet, you can use a #67 drill (0.032 inch), go back and forth and ream out unit the #66 drill (0.033 inch) just fits, or you can use a #66 (0.033 inch) drill - but be careful to not oversize the orifice.
6) Carefully drain all of the gas, remove and disassemble your carb adn replace the existing jets with the new modified (oversize) jets. Not the pilot jet is on the side of the carb and is covered up with a sticker. Take the sticker off to get access to the pilot jet.
7) Be real gentle when putting the new jets in, do not apply excessive turning force...a new carb will set you back $100.
8) Reassemble the carb and adjust the speed control vane one click slower. The engine speed may run fast after these mods.
9) Reinstall the carb with a new gas line and in-line fuel filter. Note, its a real good idea to install an in-line fuel filter. The carb jets are small and can plug up easily.
- Gas and go.
Your mower will consume a bit more gas but will not surge any more because your mower's mixture will be a little richer. However, the engine will be better lubed and cooled as a result. This cures surging and makes the mower runs like mowers of 10 years ago.
Thanks for continuing the posting..appears it is continuing to give people lots of value.
I am so excited about my mower now. It cured a 2 year head ache for me.
I am considering another tear down and going up one more on the bit. I have a similar situation as Hawkeye described (very slight surge once in awhile). I did one up on the bits so far. I guess the worse case is that it runs too rich and I need to purchase new bits and start over.
What is the recommendation...do both jets..or just the main?
Could the Duraforce maybe, just maybe, make it into the LB Hall of Fame??
I haven't found a good used DuraForce carb on eBay yet. When I do, I'll bid on it and, if I win, I'll re-jet the used one instead of the one on the mower in case I do something wrong.
It sounds like re-jetting really makes a difference in performance. I'm looking forward to doing it eventually.
"This was about the third or fourth time I've taken carbs off of DF's - I'm getting better but they are a pain in the butt! Have patience."
They are a pain. I found it tedious on reassembly of the carb and trying to keep all the parts together and get the spring into place. My heat shield remained "stuck in place" on the engine when the carb was removed...However, I made the mistake of bumping it off, and had that to deal with another loose piece on reassembly too.
I also made the primer hose mistake Tom mentioned about and could not reinstall it onto the carb and through the white plastic hose holder fig-a-mag-ig. I tried and got pissed off at it and just removed it again.
Today I cleaned the carb on project 22261.
Someone had already done the suzuki mikuni low speed jet swap and drilled the main 2 sizes larger.
The mower is a 2001 model and ended up in the junk yard last fall.I didn't notice any carbon build up or deposits in the rings.Plug looked perfect.
Since the engine is still nice and tight maby there is some hope for longevity in a jetted Duraforce.
There is a case for at leaset one new heat shield gasket...
p/n 94-5795. Specifically the one between the heat shield and the engine. New gaskets have semi-circular holes that, when the carb screws are threaded into, grip the screws and hold the air box-gasket-carb-gasket-heat shield-gasket assembly together enough to replace it with out parts flying around every where. It holds the whole thing together as if you had nuts on the end of the screws.
I finally had the time to re-jet my 10550 yesterday. It took a little longer to do the job than what others posted because of a few extra steps I needed to do. After performing the over size ream of my main jet I promptly dropped the jet on the floor which then rolled under my work table and disappeared into the cold air return duct :o 45 minutes later after tearing open the duct from the basement retrieving said jet and resealing the duct, I was ready to re-jet my mower. Murphy's Law I guess!
Like I had said before I was conservative on my reaming and only oversized each jet by one bit size; although, I did follow the suggestion of my local mower shop L-B guru and upsized both pilot and main jets at the same time. The stock pilot jet allowed a bit number #79 to fit and I reamed it with #78, and the #77 would not fit. The main jet came out a little larger than one bit size because the bit I used bound up as I fed it into the orifice and I spent extra time reaming to smooth the jet orifice wall after it went through. In this case a stock main jet allowed a bit # 69 to fit and I reamed it with #68 and afterward #67 fit but #66 would not. I removed the engine shroud and rear drive belt cover to improve access and was able to keep the air cleaner housing and carburetor and throttle cable together which avoided some messing with that part of the control assembly. I didn't bother adjusting the governor.
The results were noticeable. It fired right up with 2 primes and choke. The temperature was in the upper 80s and humid and the motor smoked at first (expected) and seemed to surge at slow speed (unexpected). As the motor warmed up the smoke cleared and settled into a nice intermittent burble sitting on the drive with no load at full throttle and at slow throttle the surging was gone. It has been very dry here so there isn't much to mow, but there was a small section of lawn that had some turf tall enough to mow and the re-jetted motor ran great with good power and no burble under load.
I suspect that I could have went larger to where a # 77 bit fit the pilot jet orifice and a # 66 bit fit the main jet orifice resulting in jetting closer to perfect because with this one bit size larger re-jet I noticed a slight lean spot at a middle throttle setting between the pilot and main circuits. Also, I suspect it likely will be on the lean side overall by late October when the temperature is below 60F. However, the jetting is pretty close to perfect so I'm leaving it for now to see how it goes. Except for added step of having to tear up the cold air return duct on my house the re-jetting job was easy and it gave the desired results.
The intake gaskets and heat shield came apart with no problems as did the float bowl. There was no sealer on them from the factory so I didn't have to use the replacements I bought.
I wasn't expecting any problems as I only have about 15 hours on my mower so they weren't baked on and brittle, but I did buy a set just in case.
I mowed the tall grass in my ditch today with the re-jetted Boy and it ran very It is very close to perfect and I may try increasing the pilot jet orifice to a #77 or even a # 76 bit size. I'm thinking the pilot may be an easier way to fine tune it and if it is a little rich at idle speed, so what I'm a full throtle mower kind of guy anyway.
Reposting this message from the first thread, since it was near the end of that one. I used one of my mowers again already. What a pleasure to use now!
I also wanted to add another tip: I used a micrometer to make sure I was using the correct bit. The bits are so small, and I wanted to be sure I used the right one. The micrometer confirmed the size for me.
My #68 bit had to be turned in on both, and the #67 just took out one tiny shaving. I stopped there. Both engines had just the slightest hint of a tiny surge afterwards, but only something I would notice and only once it a while. That tells me I didn't over-do it. Most of the time, they had the perfect, smooth hum and burble sound.
Here are some other observations:
1. This was about the third or fourth time I've taken carbs off of DF's - I'm getting better but they are a pain in the butt! Have patience.
2. I actually noticed less smoke and a better smell, if you can believe that.
3. They just sound, smell, and run like a Lawn-Boy should. I'd even bet that they burn cleaner now.
4. I'm tempted to go up one more size. I feel confident it would not be too much for the engine, as others here have noted.
Thanks to everyone who's commented on this post. A year ago, I was scared to try this. Now I know process is easy (took me less than an hour to do 2 engines). It makes the DF run the way it was meant to run. What a difference 1/1000th of an inch makes!
THS_Hawkeye, I used a #66 bit on mine, it runs perfect! It has the burble, settling into a nice steady hum when I hit the heavy stuff, and gives a nice, small puff of smoke when it first hits the governor. I did not touch the pilot jet, I like the wy it sounds when idling way too much for that! It has a nice "pop" to it at idle. I also no longer have to prime it...it will start first pull with just the choke.
I didn't do the pilot jet either for the very reason Saxman mentions. Only the main and I went to the #66 bit. I mowed again yesterday for only the second time since re-jetting and I'm still shocked and amazed by the improvements. Wow, sunny, 94°F with soaking humidity and I'm enjoying myself. =;^)
The personal pace is now much much smoother and disengages more readily.
I did prime and choke when I started it "cold" yesterday and it only required one anemic pull on the rope to start. Previously, before rejetting it was typically 2-3 pulls. Hot starting was very easy at any engine speed.
Saxman...don't worry about the small bit. Just choke it up into the pin vise so only a small portion is exposed outside the vise. When drilling, it does not have to go in very far at all before it opens up into the large center orifice at which point your are done. The tiny orifice that needs drilling does not go the entire length of the jet. Just keep it straight and be patient. It actually feels like nothing is happening at all, but all of a sudden, it pops through, and viola, your are done. Actually, I think I am going to re-bore mine a second time and go up one more on both the pilot and main. After hearing how the 22261 runs, I want the others to run the same.
I am also amazed. The rejetted 10550 and 10323 require one prime pump and one to two pulls. The 22261 has started in two pulls with no prime.
Isn't it sweet when a 2 stroke motor is jetted right. Damn politicians; can't write law to save their life, what makes them think they can jet a motor correctly.
I talked to my brother who bought a 10552 this year and he said now that his mower is broke in it is a nasty surger. I orderd up a set of jets and we'll install them over a few brews. I think I will try a reaming his jets with a #77 bit on the pilot and a #66 bit on the main right from the start because his Boy seems to surge more than my 10550 ever did.
We'll be sure to check for the air leak on the intake track. Now that I'll soon have experiece with re-jetting a lean running non surger (mine) and a full on Durasurge (his) I'll be able to add detail to the knowledge base here. I think I'll be able to update you all in about a week. Stay tuned.
I'm sure that fans of whatever 4 cycle motor is on their mower that was bought in the last few years are likely running a touch lean as well and might benefit from a little "tuning" too. A mini tea party we've got goning here!!!
I suspect my Honda GCV 160 cc runs a little lean, too. I think we're onto something here! I loved the old days when you just made fine adjustments to the needle valve every so often. For example, if I needed more power for some heavy cutting, I would go maybe 1/8th turn rich - not enough to smoke, but it would keep the 3.5 HP B&S from stalling. These new mowers are set up way lean, and slightest bit of dirt or varnish build-up anywhere in the carb takes then too lean. They still run, just with less power.
Finally I mowed with the re-jetted LB 10247 for about 3 hours. It was great! The back half of the yard was very dry and the front was long where it has been watered. Prime once when itÂs cold and it starts first pull.
Set the governor down to 3600 rpm at full throttle. It used significantly less fuel re-jetted at 3400-3600 rpm vs. running at 3900 rpm before re-jetting. It quit smoking after 5-10 minutes. There is more exhaust smell, closer to an F or D exhaust. It defiantly ran cooler. I used it on the back part of our yard which was dry, light load, no surging. I used it on the front yard w/ bagger. Great to here it hunker down in the thick stuff. It was cool mowing with the lower pitch sound in the 3400-3600 rpm range and not having to wear ear protection. Was so much fun I didn't even check the mower at idle speed. Still may order the pilot jet.
It does have the intermitted exhaust pop/ping (or p p p p p p ), especially when not under a load. It sometimes gets a slight surge when turning at the end of the row. If it wasnÂt for the exhaust ping it would sound close to an F motor. Is the exhaust ping normal on a DF? Is that a symptom of running too rich? The spark plug looks good.
Once again, thanks to all the contributors on this forum Like someone else mentioned, I remember reading about re-jetting last year. Thought it was way over my head. IÂd never taken a carburetor apart. Had just purchased the 10427 and it surged. Took it back to a LB mechanic, he fixed the surge by setting it to run full throttle at 3900-4000 rpms. I knew it was too loud and thought the LB D & F motors sounded better. After many forum reads and successfully working on a couple of dump finds, thought IÂd give re-jetting a try. Before re-jetting I was about to sell the 10247 and use my dump finds and the Honda/LB. ItÂs much better now with the deep throaty sound of a 2 cyl.
"Is the exhaust ping normal on a DF?"
Yeah, because the DF is the only 2-cycle LB with the muffler above deck. It will never sound like an F for that reason, and the little pops when the load is gone are more audible. It also sounds like maybe you could have used the #66 drill instead of the #67, or maybe you need to do the pilot jet and see how it affects running before reaming the main jet any more.
Thanks Saxman1, I'm the one that dropped all those bits. The best I could tell I only reamed it out one size but I may have went 1 - 3 sizes. It would be nice to known for sure. May buy a main jet, figure the exact size of the bits and repeat this again. I think IÂll try getting the next size pilot jet first. Really like the way it sounds now. Ken
Definatelty normal to hear a pop sound out of the exhaust as it idles or burbles under no to little load. I may be a bit out of school on this but I think that when L-B squeezed the last bump in power out of the engine design, they needed to optimize the exhaust volume on the DF in a way that the under deck exhaust wouldn't allow. Tuning of the exhaust is even more critical on a 2 stroke than on a 4 stroke motor as it is crutual in not allowing the fresh charge to follow the burnt charge out of the exhaust port before the piston skirt closes the port opening. Anyhow, I have also noticed the crisp pop in the exhaust which sort of reminds me of the sound that a highly tuned two stroke race engine makes. So, the DF doens't remind me of my F motor L-B mower, but it does bring back fond memories of my racing dirt bikes.
I guess it should be no wonder why I like to mow full thottle with the Easy Pace maxed out.....I think I have to practice some hole shots with my 10550 to be sure I'm leading coming into the first turn ;)
Has anyone investigated the possibility of putting an F lower plate and muffler on the Duraforce engine? I dont know what all would be required but I have thought how interesting that might be, and wondered how much power loss might be realized from that configuration.
" they needed to optimize the exhaust volume on the DF in a way that the under deck exhaust wouldn't allow. "
I have heard this before but looking at the DuraForce muffler and remembering some of the "F" series BIG round mufflers and the D600 mentioned, I think they could have put the muffler under but I think it had to do with some pinhead's concern about damage to grass or fire hazard is why it was put above deck.
Walt Conner
The volume is only part of the consideration for a two strokeexhaust system, or more accurately the expansion chamber system. As I understand it the way the engine designers get the fresh charge to stop before it follows the burnt charge out the exhaust port is through an acoustical wave or echo that is generated off the far end of the exhaust system. That echo needs to be timed to arrive at the engine exhaust port just as the last of the burnt charge exits and momentarily stop the flow until the piston skirt can close the port retaining the whole of the new charge in the compression chamber. Depending on what RPM you want the engine to run best at the expansion chamber dimensions, like length width and girth all have to work together for the echo to have the right timing. Spent charge then passes to a silencer or muffler at the end of this entire chamber doing all this acoustic wave voodoo. I have even have seen systems back in the 70s that allowed the tail pipe (stinger) to be varied in length to broaden the power band on 2 cycle racing kart engines; although, today they do this with mechanisms that in effect raise an lower the upper exhaust port lip in the cylinder wall which is even more effective for broadening the power band. Lawn mower 2 cycle engines running at constant RPM keep things simple requiring only a fixed set of dimensions for optimum efficiency and performance.
Before I get too far off on a tangent, I too have wondered why they couldn't have done the under deck exhaust system and the only few things I could think of was that the added length of the transfer pipe found on DF motors helps with this acoustic timing issue and to try to make it all happen under the deck left to little room for the blade and mowing process. It could have been simply a matter of lower cost to implement and upper deck exhaust system as well. Or, more likely, some corporate lawyer at Toro felt that if the under deck exhaust ever caused a grass fire it would be too easy for some ambulance chaser to point out no other lawn mower manufacturer does it that way and therefore it was not a safe design. Anyway, I do miss the mellow hum of the under deck exhaust with the occasional waft of exhaust smoke coming up off the turf as you mow along.
I got my 10424 back from the shop today. I took it in a few weeks ago to fix a carb leak that drained the fuel tank and flooded the engine. They put a new carburetor on it to fix this issue.
With the new carb, my 10424's DuraForce runs like a dream---no surging at either idle or full throttle. I mowed with it and noticed that the exhaust also sounds a little different. It's got a raspier note to it that I enjoyed listening to.
Upon close inspection, I discovered that the part number on the new carb is different from the part number on the old one. The new one is part number 98-7000, while the old one was part number 98-7042. Does anyone know the reason for this? I thought that all DFs had the same carburetor. The difference in part numbers, along with the dramatic improvement in performance, makes me wonder if maybe there's a commercial DF carburetor. Is this correct?
Actually that is the old original number. It has been superceded by the 7042. I found this out when a 7000 came up on Ebay for sale (an auction that ended a couple hours ago) and I ran the part number on RCPW days ago before posting my bid. The number came back as superceded by the 7042.
Thanks for the info. Any idea what the differences between the two carbs are? I don't understand why the performance with the new carb is so much better, especially the lack of surging. Did your '98 10424 have the 98-7000 carburetor on it when you got it? If so, how did it perform?
No, it has the 7048 and ran pretty pathetic. I have no idea when the 7000 was used or in what mowers specifically, just that at both SEPW and RCPW the 7000 is superceded by the 7048. Maybe that they used both and finally did away with the 7000? Who knows.. Of course Ive only had the 10424 a year so it may have had a carb replacement.
I lost the auction in the last 10 seconds by a snipe bid so I wont be able to tell now if there is a difference. Maybe there was just a problem with your carb or the sealing of it.
You might be right. My old carburetor might have had an air leak somewhere. However, I still don't see how the new carb could've completely eliminated the surging like it did if there's no difference in the jet sizes between it (98-7000) and the old carb (98-7042).
While waiting for the jets I ordered for my brothers 10552 to come in for his re-jetting I tweaked the jetting on my 10550.
I opened my pilot jet to accept a #77 bit from the #78 I had done before and kept my main jet at clearing a #67 bit. My first re-jetting was very close to perfect with only a slight hint of being lean and this nudge on the pilot was all that I needed. I felt if I had gone to a #66 bit opening on the main jet it would have been too much and since the pilot feeds fuel at all throttle settings it was a good way to tweak the jetting slightly more rich. I tested it today with conditions of 74 F and 52% humidity. I think Milwaukee is about 300 to 400 feet above sea level, (I'm not too sure about that).
Now my Boy's jetting is about as close to perfect as you can get with a fixed jet carburetor with the engine no longer surging at any throttle setting and will burble when there is no or little load and clean out nice in when mowing. Idle speed is still fine with no excessive exhaust smoke. I did a full throttle spark plug check and it came out on the grayish side of golden brown on the electrode insulation. I was pleased to see that. I do use more fuel now (duh) as I need to refill the tank before I finish mowing and I didn't need to do that with the stock jetting. So what, the mower runs like a Lawn-Boy should run now.
I'll post an update about my brother's outcome when the jets come in and I get them reamed and installed.
When this topic was first posted, I was very skeptical. My Dura Force Engine ran well and didn't surge, so why go through all that hassle. I didn't dread drilling the jets, but after working mostly with the older LawnBoy Engines, I just hate these newer ones, even though it's only the carburetor. So not being one to resist progress, I ordered new jets. I wanted to keep my old ones , just in case, because I've learned through the years, that Murphy's Law is always out there. Whenever I went to pick them up, yesterday, the mechanic told me that these jets were the "New and Improved Models" and made it sound like they were GodÂs Gift to the Dura Force Engine. The jets were larger and they would cure all ills. Yeh, right, the bits that I was going to use came nowhere close to fitting into the openings. Some difference. I started with the main jet and it went like a dream. Used a very high speed, lots of cutting oil and took it very slow. The low speed went just as well, but I was scared to death I would go too far, so I marked the bit with a piece of tape and everything went well with that one too. Now all I have to do is to motivate myself to tear the thing apart take out the old jets and install the new ones. I think I would look forward more to giving the dog a bath than tearing that thing apart and then putting it all back together. I just hate the thought of having to fool with the throttle cable, governor, gasket, heat shield, and getting the bolts aligned so it would all go back together. I sure hope it's worth it. I think I will make this a winter project. That way I will have several months to get myself motivated.
Oh. by the way, anybody that read my last post on the subject of the mystery engine, I got my honey do list completed with time to spare.
You don't have to disconnect the throtle cable or the governer mechanism. If you remove the belt cover below and pull the green engine cover above access is good enought to leave the whole carb assmebly as one piece. Just leave the mounting screws in place from the air box to mounting flange to hold it all together. It takes less than an hour, unless you drop the main jet down a cold air return duct...then it yakes 2.5 hours :[
My 10550 didn't surge either, but it sure was running lean. Over the 20+ years I intend to keep this mower, I figured it needed to be richened enough to not burn it self out in 5 to 10 years. EPA be damned.
Well, I guess I am going to bite the bullet and write another chapter in my suspense story, and replace the low speed jet, since it does not require much effort.
There are two questions I have. 1. My shop manual states that one drop of loctite should be put on the threads before re installing them. Has anyone else done this? 2. Does the decal that covers the low speed jet come off easily, so that it can be put back on, or do you have to get another one, or just simply leave it off?
I didn't use any loctite for the installation of the reamed jet. I omitted this as I was worried about the ability to pull the jet again if needed for fine tuning. A light snugging should be fine but be careful as brass is soft stuff. I will try it this way for a while and maybe Loctite it after I am fully satified with the jetting.
The decal peels back easy enough and I only peeled it about half way to expose the piolt jet opening. Do it with very clean dry fingers, or it won't adhere again. I didn't and had to use a little contact cement on the back of the decal to make it sticky again.
Slow speed jet installed, main jet to go.
As I stated, I didn't think my 22261 ran that poorly to begin with, so with just the slow speed jet installed, I don't know if there was any noticable inprovement. The only thing I could have done was to make a sound recording before and after and then compared the two. Maybe I will do that before I install the main jet. I guess I am looking forward to doing this, but I will have to wait until I get my hoist freeded up . My back has seen too much lifting and working while bending over, that I don't do anything anymore unless I can put it on the lift so that I can sit and have it at arms length.
Will keep the group informed.
Finally completed the re-jetting. As I mentioned in my other posts, I didnÂt think my dura force engine started or ran that poorly to begin with, so to make a constructive comparison is difficult. I can, however make some observations. 1. Engine does smoke a little more. 2. Starting is still the same. Prime once or twice, apply choke; starts on the first pull. 3. Increase in power? Prior to the re-jetting, I never really tested the unit for brute power but after the re-jetting, I thought I would give it a try. After it had thoroughly warmed up I took it through a section of hay field where the grass was knee high. It didnÂt even hesitate. That gurgle that is talked about turned into a powerful sounding hum and it proceeded to mow continuously with out the slightest hint of wanting to stall.
Is re-jetting God's gift to the Dura Force? I honestly couldnÂt say. All I can do is to present my observations. The one aspect of the re-jetting that might not be obvious is the fact that it will probably run a little cooler, which is a good thing.
With this draught, I have not used my re-jetted 10424 for over a month and had used it only ONCE after the re-jet. Finally got out and cut the grass today and was wondering if anyone else's Re-Jetted Dura-Force does this ...
Upon re-start (warmed up), engine "races" initially. Not sure how high an RPM it peaks at, but it is much higher than normal.
Neither my old 1999 vintage 10323 OR this 2003 vintage (but bought new this year) 10424 did this before the re-jetting.
My re-jetting consisted of the Suzuki Pilot Jet, Main Jet drilled to #67, and adjusted the govenor 1 click slower.
Once it settles down, normal engine speed sounds about correct ... I also bought a Tecumseh Vibra-Tach, but have yet to use it.
I had also added a Stens 90Deg fuel shut-off and small B&S fuel filter during the dry spell. After a few minutes of cutting (engine wamed up) I noticed it was suging worse than it did before the re-jet. Only thing I could think of was the fuel filter was too restrictive. Pulled it out of line and it then ran normal.
I have a filter on all three of mine now with no restriction. I used a larger B&S filter.
Regarding restricted fuel flow I have been mentioning...has anyone noticed the nipple on the end of the non commercial tanks? Both my 10323 and 10550 were hardly open at the end with a small nib of plastic restricting the hole from the manufacturing. Only about 20% of the nipple was actual free and open for gas to pass through. It appears when they chopped off the end of the nipple, it squeezed the plastic shut a bit. I would assume the plastic would be hot and it just pinched close a bit. This coupled with small jets = surging!! The higher tank with the gallon of natural head pressure, may be the reason the commercial units run better. The commercial nipple has a brass valve inside it and held tight with a hose clamp. This would make perfect flow through the intake of the brass valve.. I also am under the belief, the engine shroud is causing a difference in air flow affecting vane operation. Everything else in the mower is the same.
Yes, it certainly seems logical that the larger tank would supply more pressure as would it's increased height in relationship to the carb inlet. Correct me if I'm wrong (have never seen a commercial model up close), but it appears that the bottom of the tank is higher than that of a regular Duraforce.
What made me think "fuel filter" was something stated in an earlier thread. Someone had installed a large clear filter in-line that appeared to have a pleated paper element inside. Someone else came back saying that type of filter should only be used on engines with a fuel pump ... using it on a gravity-fed fuel line could cause irratic engine performance.
The filter I used is a red B&S ... 1.37" dia. x 1.75" long o/a and appears to have just a simple screen inside it. I had used a screen type filter on my 10323 for years with no problems ... it was white plastic with two halves held together with one center screw that allows ports to be rotated for best fit. It is just I now wanted to add a shut-off AND a filter and this little red B&S was a 1/2" shorter and seemed to be the ticket. Looking at it now, I think there is room for this slightly longer filter ... but what difference can it make, they are both screen type filters that should have similar screen surface area !! The shut-off can't be all that restrictive, but maybe the combination of it AND a screen filter is. Many on here have added filters, but I think I may be the only one on here that has tried to do BOTH !!
Yes, the tank on the commercial sits higher than that of a standard duraforce. However, my commercial surged like crazy when I first got it. I did the rejetting on mine and now it runs like a charm. I agree that there would be a less restricted flow of fuel to the carburetor with the larger tank and the brass elbow but it didn't help mine at all. It surged like heavy footed driver in bad traffic. It was an embarassment. Now it runs well. I can't believe that the commercials would have been given special treatment over the other duraforces. Same engine, same EPA standards to meet. In fact, I was at the dealer the other day picking up a gator blade and asked the guy there about the surging (I had already fixed mine) He said that that is the number one complaint about the duraforces and that everyone used to mowing with an older boy immediately thinks there's a problem with their new mowers if they've bought a duraforce. The mowers on the two engines are essentially identical, aside from the shroud and tank. I said before in a previous post that it must be a slight difference in the bore of the jets on a minority of duraforces that accounts for the mystery non-surgers. Think about it, all it takes is 1/1000th of an inch to turn a surger into a non-surger. This could easily happen during the manufacture of the jets. It would be an acceptable percentage of "defects" (hardly a defect, I know) produced. All things the same, each duraforce should run the same. Everyone who has had a surging duraforce (at least on this forum) have all looked to the carburetor and fixed the surging by oversizing the jets. All I know is my experience with my commercial and it surged like an S.O.B. until getting a jet-job. Aside from the fuel flow being VERY restricted due to a manufacturing error in the tank, or a plugged filter, I can't see how it could be anything else but the jetting.
I used the pleated filter mentioned on all my Duraforces after I rejetted them. I found too much junk at the main jet screen filter in the carb to feel comfortable with leaving as is, so I installed in line filters. They work great. The Briggs package never mentioned about fuel pumps...just said for all horsepower engines. These filters are better than the screens. The picture below is from a in line filter installed on my 10550.
i installed the red briggs filter and a shutoff on mine too. no problems but i did have troudle with the white 2 peice filter doug recommends-it leaks! also the new carb i got has the older 7000 # on it but runs like a champ . so much for the theroy that the newer7042 is a newer and better desighn
As cheap as those little white 2-pc filters are (and no gasket on screw if I remember correctly), I'd expect them to leak too. But I don't think it ever leaked for me.
Since mowing this weekend, I've removed the gas tank to check for plastic obstruction in the hose barb (as others have mentioned) and found mine to be fine. I then re-installed my fuel line putting in the white 2-pc filter to see how that does.
Tom P PA, Back on July 20th you said you were thinking about increasing your jets one more size on your 10550. Just curious if you did this - what sizes are your jets at this point and are you staying or going up?
I'm rejetting my 10550 this weekend and would like your input.
Greg Meyer
I suppose it's time for me to chime in. Today after nearly 7 years of use, my '98 10324 Lawn-Boy decided to continually and consistently surge when not under load. In all the years I've owned it, I've never had a problem with the mower.
I took the air filter out and dismounted the carburetor to find that a lot of dirt had gotten sucked around the back of the filter and into the carburetor. As a result, it was pretty dirty, but I gave it a thorough cleaning.
My question is would it be wise to replace the jets with a stock set or should I also be re-jetting the carburetor like others? Like I said, it's been running great for all these years..no problems other than this one now.
What do y'all think?
PS - Hope I'm not doing anyone a disservice by posting this message in this thread, but I thought it was somewhat related.
Greg, if you are not aware, please review the first 100 responses on "Duraforce Re-Jetting Instructions." This is actually Part # 1 and has a wealth of information. Print it before it gets removed from the site. The procedure is very simple.
I never went up to a larger bore yet. I will do it at some point, but I have not had the time as of yet. Just became too busy.
The 10550 runs a world of difference better than pre rejetting, but I am confident I can improve it by going up one more on each.
In regards to the pilot jet, a #79 bit fit my stock jet, and I bored one bit larger with a #78 bit. In regards to my main jet, a #69 bit fit my stock jet, and I bored one bit larger with a #68.
My bits were "cheapie" ones on ebay and am guessing they are off tolerance. I believe on most main stock jets a #68 will fit and you should bore with a #67.
Regardless, just see which ones fits, and go up in size.
If I had to do it over, I would go up 2 on each. I think I get get some more gurgle and burble sound out of it.
The stock Duraforces run way too lean. My engines run remarkable cooler now, which has to increase its longevity.
Tinkerer, I dont know what Tom uses but the common tool today is the laser thermometer. These are sold in abundance on Ebay.
Here is a link that might be useful: laser thermometer
Much easier method. After I mow my lawn, I lick my finger and then touch the engine head just just below the spark plug and count how long it takes until it starts to hurt. Before rejetting 3 seconds. After rejetting 8 seconds. See, it runs cooler. LOL.
Actually, after I use my mower, I hose down the top deck and then flip the mower on its side and hose the underdeck portion along with some hand assistance on removing clumps (I find this more effective than running the engine and spraying the hose under the deck). I then wipe the top of the deck down with a towel.
I noticed the "hissing" water sound hitting hot engine parts was reduced. And when wiping down, I noticed the engine was much cooler. I use an old tee shirt on the deck and on the exposed engine base below the shroud. You can feel the heat on the face of your hand.
So I guess you can say my observation is based upon sound and touch.
Now that you mention about thermometers, it would be an interesting study to actually measure before and after rejetting for those who have not rejetted.
One can easily take a bulb thermometer and hold it to the side of the mower using some sort of clay over the top of the bulb to hold it onto the engine. Mow your lawn and then take several measurements after a specified running time. This should be done over 2 or 3 weeks so we get enough data. After rejetting, do the same measurements.
Any pre rejetting takers ???
I agree, my engine is totally running cooler. My engine used to be scorching hot upon shutting it down after an hours running time. You can feel the radiant heat off the engine. The reduction is noticeable to me.
Also, someone posted an article from a magazine that analyzed the Toro Duraforce when it was first introduced. I recall the article saying the engine ran leaner and hotter and some extra cooling fins had to be added to reduce extreme heat. It is no secret about Toro purposely creating a lean engine.
that would be me. as soon as i grab some new parts, i am going to test my DF out and see how the surge is... especially after a good carb cleaning. if it still surges as badly as it does (a # 98-7000 carb) i am going to find a bit set and have at it. i have the zuki jet already, so i may just swap it out and only rejet the one instead of both. have not decided yet. for my memory, anyone have the part numbers for the two LB jets and the zuki jet? is there also a great place to buy a bit set that has a good price AND decent quality? eBay makes me nervous with their great prices, but if i recall, didn't someone have a bad experience with them?
On pre-compliant engines, a mixture screw (needle valve) was used to control mixture. This was very handy, as you could enrich the mixture for more power in hard cutting conditions or just make little adjustments as the climate changed with the seasons. Many early post-compliant engines continued to have the needle valves but with limiter caps on the screws like on cars in the '70s. If you could find an early carb like this that would fit, the Duraforce would be cured for good.
suzuki 2 stroke part number is 81-1030
standard main jet 98-1357
standard pilot jet 98-7041
Don't bother drilling out a standard jet, splurge and get the 'zuki jet. It makes the job VERY simple. No worrying about broken bits and all that.
I got the bit I needed from a local hobby shop. They were excellent quality and were kept in little vials behind the counter. Another place with decent quality is tower hobbies. (see link) They also sell pin vises(an absolute necessity) and individual bits.
If your machine surges and you are hesitant to take the "re-jet plunge" don't be. It was the best thing I've done to any of my outdoor power equipment. Even at high noon when it's 100 degrees and 99% humidity my LawnBoy puts a smile on my face! And re-jetting one of these things isn't hard at all, it just sounds a little intimidating!
Here is a link that might be useful: bit set
Hi everyone,
Thank you Tom P for this post. I just bought my first silver series dura-surge, and i cant wait to re-jet it. Why does the post recommend buying new Jets? Why not drill out existing Jets? I see that HRZ03 did this, did anyone else try that? I am very inclined to take this route, no sense to me throwing more money at this than is necessary.
Please advise.
There is no need to buy new jets or gaskets - just drill out. You do not need a pin vise either, just pliers to hold the bit as you are just drilling brass. A good starting point is to drill only 1 size larger on both jets - see how it runs then. A warning, if you have a set of drill bits do not get them mixed up as they are very tiny.
"There is no need to buy new jets or gaskets - just drill out. You do not need a pin vise either, just pliers to hold the bit as you are just drilling brass. A good starting point is to drill only 1 size larger on both jets - see how it runs then. A warning, if you have a set of drill bits do not get them mixed up as they are very tiny."
Thats what I was picking up. I hear you oud and clear on all 4 of these points. Thank you.
The one bit is so small...just be patient and use some oil. It feels as though nothing is happening, but all of a sudden, it "breaks through" and you are done.
Mine too, no priming anymore, may be once at times, but not 5 or 6 like the old days.
Did Saxman ever re-jet yet??
Help. Please.
I got my drills last night, and began the re-jetting. After removing the carb, i found, i think, the main Jet. The main jet is the one that feeds into the carburetor 'throat'. is this correct? i bored this out using the 67 then 66 wire gauge drill. mission accomplished.
Then i started looking for the pilot Jet. its nowhere to be found. is this possible? what is a pilot jet? where is the pilot jet? is it the inlet Jet from the gas tank?
of course i reassembled the mower last night expecting the surge to be gone, but it was just *slightly* still there. :(
thanks in advance guys.
Look on the side of the carburetor, you will see a sticker with some mumbers. With clean hands, carefully peel the sticker back. Directly underneath is the pilot jet. It controls the idle mixture. After the rejet, put the sticker back on. You should not have to remove the carb to get to the pilot jet.
Thanks bigal_mo, it is good. something else i did after re-jetting was to take the mower and drop it onto a pile of leaves which accumulate on my north facing wall of my house, it didnt even slow down. this beast is strong.
I drilled the pilot jet with a 78 wire gauge drill. the vice that i bought couldnt even grip it so i had to eventually take the drill bit, hold it with pliers, then holding it still i twisted the pilot jet onto it slowly. i didnt break any bits during the process. it got hung up a few times but i backed out and redrilled over and over until it broke through. a very simple process.
Hi. I just wanted to revive this thread for a bit more clarification. I copied the url for the parts list of my 10323. I have the wire drills bits and am ready to rejet, but wanted to know why the pilot jet is not listed in the parts list. The part number (98-7041) is also not listed. The mainjet is clearly identified and is not a problem, but is there another name for the pilotjet. Slowspeed, idle and 37.5 also do not appear. Does the 10323 simply not have a pilotjet? I haven't looked behind the sticker on the carb yet, so I have no idea yet. Thanks in advance.
Here is the Link:
Thanks very much to the guys that provide the info above, particularly the specifics on how to drill out the carb jets. I was having nothing but grief with my Lawn Boy. I finally followed the above instructions and added running a drill through the fuel tank outlet to make sure there was no fuel starvation issues and installing a fuel shutoff and Briggs in-line fuel filter. The formum that deals with the air vane throttle operation was also helpfull. Once all this was done, the engine started on the first pull, which it hasn't done in years and has a new healthier sound to it with lots of rpms and power.
So thanks very much guys, your info was most helpful.
Many thanks to FordTech and the forum for posting these instructions. My DF 10550 lives again! I had a real bad engine speed surging problem that was really annoying. I followed the instructions on drilling out the carburator jets--it now works perfectly, runs like my old lawn boy that I used for 22 years with that happy two-cycle sputter when not under load.
I enlarged the pilot 0.002" (from .014 to .016") using a #78 wire gauge drill and the high speed jet to .033" using #66 wire gauge drill.
I know it has been a while since these postings, but I just now discovered this great site. I have a Lawnboy 10252 with a 107-4607(98-7042 old number) carb. Mine has all of the aforementioned problems and I wondering if I could re-jet mine to these specs. If not, do you think I could perform the 10% increase in regards to the pilot and main jets if my stock sizes do not correlate to the above carbs?
Thanks for any help you can throw my way.


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Unit circle definition of trig functions
Let's now extend the domain of the trig function we love by exploring the unit circle definition of trig functions!
All content in "Unit circle definition of trig functions"
Most people know that you can measure angles with degrees, but only exceptionally worldly people know that radians can be an exciting alternative. As you'll see, degrees are somewhat arbitrary (if we lived on a planet that took 600 days to orbit its star, we'd probably have 600 degrees in a full revolution). Radians are pure. Seriously, they are measuring the angle in terms of how long the arc that subtends them is (measured in radiuseseses). If that makes no sense, imagine measuring a bridge with car lengths. If that still doesn't make sense, watch this tutorial!
- Introduction to radians
- Rotation by radians and quadrants
- Arc length as fraction of circumference
- Radians on the unit circle
- Finding arc length from radian angle measure
- Ratio between concentric arcs
- Example: Radian measure and arc length
- Radians and arc length
- Example: Converting degrees to radians
- Example: Converting radians to degrees
- Radian and degree conversion practice
- Degrees to radians
- Radians and degrees
Trig functions of special angles
In this tutorial, we'll really digest how special triangles and angles that show up a lot in mathematics relate to each other and the various trig functions.
Inverse trig functions
Someone has taken the sine of an angle and got 0.85671 and they won't tell you what the angle is!!! You must know it! But how?!!!
Inverse trig functions are here to save your day (they often go under the aliases arcsin, arccos, and arctan).
- Inverse trig functions: arcsin
- Inverse trig functions: arccos
- Inverse trig functions: arctan
- Example: Calculator to evaluate inverse trig function
- Evaluating inverse trig functions
- Solution set to sin equation
- Restricting domain of trig function to make invertible
- Inverse tan domain and range
- Inverse tangent scenario
- Understanding inverse trig functions
- Angle of sun with the ground based on shadow
- Modeling annual temperature variation with trigonometry
- Applying inverse trig function with model
- Inverse trig word problems


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Dora Saves the Snow Princess - NDS
by 2K Play
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ESRB Rating: E for Everyone
Join Dora the Explorer as she sets off on a new adventure on the Nintendo DS. In Dora the Explorer: Dora Saves the Snow Princess, a mean witch has put a spell on the Magic Snowy Forest and now it is starting to melt. If it isn't stopped, it will melt away to nothing. With help from new friends like the Snow Fairy and everybody's favorites Boots, Swiper and Pirate Piggy, your child embarks along with Dora on an adventure to find the magic crystal that will return nature's balance, free the Snow Princess and save the beauty of winter from disappearing forever.
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You are here: Main / Customer Services / Public Communications Division / 2008 / Mayor Hannemann Approves New Neighborhood Plan |
MAYOR HANNEMANN APPROVES NEW NEIGHBORHOOD PLAN Mayor Mufi Hannemann today gave final approval to a long-awaited Revised Neighborhood Plan that will ensure all "This revised plan will strengthen our island's Neighborhood Board system and help it operate more efficiently and effectively," Mayor Hannemann said. "Mahalo to the many board members, Neighborhood Commission, and Commission Office staff for seeing this important effort through." Mayor Hannemann also thanked the City Corporation Counsel's Office, and especially Deputy Corporation Counsel Jennifer Waihee. The plan governs the island's Neighborhood Board system, and is maintained by the Neighborhood Commission, which conducted the review and update in consultation with the 33 boards. "This is grassroots democracy in action," Mayor Hannemann said. "We're blessed to have our Neighborhood Boards staffed by men and women who serve without compensation. It's all about community." The plan was last revised in 1998, and should have been updated by 2003. "When I came into office, one of my goals was to complete unfinished work and fix problems," Mayor Hannemann said. "I'm very glad that we've all been able to work together to get this done. We recognize that every community should have a Neighborhood Board voice." The revised plan clarifies the process for setting board agendas, and streamlines the process for handling complaints, Neighborhood Commission Executive Secretary Joan Manke said. "There will be a more efficient process to resolve concerns that sometimes come up," she said. "All of this is to become more efficient. We've accomplished a big task here, and the other half of it will be to provide training to the boards." The plan also requires that biennial elections for Neighborhood Boards occur in May, with the new board terms beginning on July 1, 2009. Many Neighborhood Commissioners and Neighborhood Board members attended a signing ceremony with Mayor Hannemann today, along with representatives from the Neighborhood Commission Office. Commission Chair Grant Tanimoto thanked everyone who provided input to update the plan. "I hope all of us can keep up, paddling the canoe in the same direction," he said. The plan is available online at www.honolulu.gov/nco. The Commission, in conjunction with the -30- Contact: Bryan Mick, Neighborhood Commission Office, 768-3717, email@example.com |
Friday, October 10, 2008 |


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On this edition of the Dot Com Lunch, I answer the ultimate reader question, and that is "how do I stay happy?" We also have one of the most unusual gadget of the week, from our pals at the WODShop. We also talk about the World Cup and how it was possible for the USA team to lose to Germany, and yet still make it into the round of 16. Talk about the best lost ever!
Anyone is welcome to join us for the Dot Com Lunch. We host it every Saturday, unless I'm out of town. Join us at our Dot Com Lifestyle Meetup group to find the time and location of the next lunch. Until then, happy eating!
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Sprint calls it quits with QChat
Proving you don't ever mess with a classic, Sprint (NYSE:S)Āhas decided toĀabandon QChat and shiftĀits push-to-talk effortsĀbackĀonto the network which popularized the service: Nextel's iDEN network. A Sprint official told PhoneNews thatĀwhile Sprint would continue to support existing QChat handsets in the market, no new CDMA PTT phones were in its roadmap. Instead Sprint will focus on PTT as one of the principle services on its newly reinvigorated iDEN network.
Nextel set the gold standard for PTT services a decade ago and since then no one has been able to replicate it. many carriers have introduced push-to-talk solutions using the 2GĀ voice channel or VoIP,Ābut they've been of limited success. The main barrier for those services hasĀbeen matching the sub-second session setup timesĀof iDEN, which none of the alternate technologies have been able to achieve. Operators also underestimated the potential size of the PTT market. While Nextel drew a loyal subscriber base of blue collar workers and emergency personnel, the service failed to appeal the mass consumer markets–with the possible exception of the youth market. Much of the early enthusiasm for PTTĀin the business and consumer markets dissipated in 2007 as customers wearied of its intrusiveness and found alternatives in SMS.


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Nairobi, May 31, 2012--The Committee to Protect Journalists welcomes Wednesday's vote in the Malawi parliament that repealed a sweeping amendment to the country's penal code which had allowed the government to ban any news "not in the public interest."
]]>New York, July 21, 2011--The Committee to Protect Journalists condemns sweeping arrests and attacks on journalists, as well as censorship by the administration of Malawi President Bingu Wa Muthiraka against media outlets reporting on nationwide antigovernment protests that erupted on Wednesday.
]]>New York, July 19, 2011--The Committee to Protect Journalists is concerned by intimidation of the private Zodiak Broadcasting Station (ZBS) on Sunday and Monday by masked assailants as protests were planned for Wednesday in the capital.
]]>New York, February 1, 2011--An amendment to Malawi's penal code, which became law
last week, allows the government to ban any publication deemed contrary to
public interest for an unspecified period of time, institutionalizing political
censorship of the press, the Committee to Protect Journalists said today.
On January 26, President Bingu wa Mutharika signed into law an amendment to Section 46 of the penal code that gives the information minister unchecked discretion to block a publication he or she deems against the "public interest," according to news reports and the Media Institute of Southern Africa (MISA). Previously, Section 46 only prohibited importation of publications considered seditious.
]]>New York, August 31, 2010--The Committee to Protect Journalists condemns threatening comments made by President Bingu wa Mutharika against Malawian news outlets last week. Mutharika threatened to close newspapers that report critically about his administration after the private weeklies Malawi News and Weekend Nation cited a regional agency's report forecasting food shortages in the country, local journalists told CPJ.
]]>New York, May 19, 2009--Authorities in Malawi should immediately release three journalists arrested today in a police raid on an opposition radio station, the Committee to Protect Journalists said. The country is holding general elections between today and Thursday.


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Slow Cooker Chicken Marbella
From Woman's Day
Made famous by the former New York Citybased specialty food shop The Silver Palate, this dish is a heady mix of sweet, salty and tangy flavorsthe result of pairing pungent olives, capers and prunes with white wine, brown sugar and parsley.
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Nutritional Information
(per serving)
Calories | 302 |
Total Fat | 8g |
Saturated Fat | 2g |
Cholesterol | 129mg |
Sodium | 487mg |
Total Carbohydrate | 32g |
Dietary Fiber | 2g |
Sugars | n/a |
Protein | 34g |
Calcium | -- |
Marcus Nilsson/Woman's Day
Serves: 4
Total Time: 6 hr
Prep Time: 15 min
U.S. | Metric | Conversion chart |
- 1/2 cup(s) dry white wine
- 2 tablespoon(s) brown sugar
- 1.5 teaspoon(s) dried oregano
- 3 tablespoon(s) red wine vinegar
- Kosher salt and pepper
- 6 clove(s) garlic, smashed
- 1 tablespoon(s) capers
- 1/2 cup(s) prunes
- 1/4 cup(s) pitted green olives
- 4 small chicken legs, split (4 drumsticks, 4 thighs; about 2 1/2 lb total), skin removed
- 1/4 cup(s) fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 1 cup(s) long-grain white rice
- In a 5- to 6-qt slow cooker, whisk together the wine, brown sugar, oregano, 2 Tbsp of the vinegar, and 1/4 tsp each salt and pepper. Add the garlic, capers, prunes and olives and mix to combine.
- Add the chicken, nestling it among the olives and prunes. Cover and cook until the meat is tender and cooked through, on low for 5 to 6 hours or on high for 3 to 4 hours; gently stir in the remaining Tbsp vinegar and parsley.
- Thirty minutes before serving, cook the rice according to package directions. Serve the chicken, prunes, olives and cooking liquid over the rice.
Tips & Techniques
Although prunes are standard in marbella recipes, try substituting them with dried apricots or nectarines.
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Team Sonja V. Team Cindy! Sonja feels that Cindy insulted her by blowing her off and Cindy says that the 'arguing isn't over!'
The Real Housewives of New York City star Sonja Morgan continually tried to make friends with the newest member of the cast, Cindy Barshop, throughout the season to no avail. After Cindy gave her the cold shoulder and insulted her a number of times, Sonja tells HollywoodLife.com that she's done being treated this way. She tried to get to know Cindy, but Cindy never let it happen!
"We were never friends," Sonja tells us. "I met her through Ramona [Singer]. I never really got to know her."
Sonja tried to give Cindy a chance, but then she got upset when Cindy started bashing Ramona to Jill Zarin. "I didn't know Cindy. I welcomed her with open arms and when she said Ramona was not good to the core to Jill, I had her over for tea to say that wasn't going to fly with me," explains Sonja "There's a pecking order. Ramona introduced her to the group and you take care of those that take care of you."
Cindy then stood Sonja up for a lunch that she set up. "She knew before I left my home 35 minutes away that she wasn't going to lunch with me," reveals Sonja. And it went on! "She was upset that I didn't want to go to Quogue an hour away for her nondescript party with the mystery invitation."
But Sonja still tried to make friends with Cindy — even inviting her over for breakfast. "Then I have her for breakfast — a homemade breakfast — and she schedules a conference call during it," remembers Sonja. "During a one hour breakfast? I'm a very busy woman. How long is my breakfast going to go?"
"I respect that Cindy is a business woman, [but] no one's time is more important than someone else's time," says Sonja. "If one chooses to let your business override your personal time with your family and friends, that's your choice. But when someone sets an hour aside for you to get to know you, especially after a rocky start, you're with them — you give them your time. You show them that you are there for them. "
Cindy didn't show Sonja any respect during that breakfast. "I would have loved to have been friends with Cindy, but if she's going to insult me on my time, who needs friends like that?" questions Sonja.
To this day, Sonja doesn't call Cindy a friend. "Our friendship never took off because she never spent any time with me — I never got to know her," shares Sonja.
And to be honest, Sonja's not upset by this revelation. "I have so many friends and family. My life is full," she notes.
But while Sonja's ready to move forward and put Cindy in her past, Cindy says the fighting is just not done yet.
"You will have to see what happens on the reunion, let's just say the arguing isn't over!" Cindy tells HollywoodLife.com.
And Cindy thinks that Sonja's the one who treated her badly. "Clearly I didn't like it, hence the argument," says Cindy.
BFFs — whose side are you on — Team Sonja or Team Cindy?
- Lindsey DiMattina
More RHONY Stories:
- Natalie Cole Promises To Sing With Countess LuAnn!
- Ramona's Pregnancy Scare!
- Alex McCord & Ramona Singer Attack Countess LuAnn!
View Comment
Posted at 12:34 AM on January 22, 2012
Posted at 12:24 AM on January 22, 2012
NO!! The show won't be worth the time slot anymore!! 3 of my favorites GONE?? Jill, Kelly and Cindy? Are you INSANE? Yuck!! Who is going to keep watching to follow the miserable life of RAMONA?? and Sonja is gross! And to keep the biggest SNOB (no good reason) of them all Luann the Man? I don't care AL ALL that Alex is gone but good grief, you give the Axe to the ONLY other 3 with brains! Oh well, one night I have free to watch something else! Bad Bad decision!
Team Cindy
Posted at 7:10 PM on September 21, 2011
I agree wiht Karen, Sonja is nothing with out her ex-husbands money,And she feels that money is what makes her her! Thats why she does nothing for the show,And frankly I think since she filed Bankrupcy she should loose that home worth millions… How is it fair that she keeps it! Shame on her in so many ways,First its soo discusting not to wear underwear, infront of your friends and thier husbands. And its not like she has a hot body! :( shes just gross
Posted at 3:06 PM on September 19, 2011
Posted at 3:00 PM on August 1, 2011
Very HAPPY that Cindy isn't coming back. I don't know what appealed to the BRAVO people about her anyway. She has a horrible personality, she's grouchy, dry, acidic personality and just a real downer! I'm sorry to see that Alex is leaving, especially since she found her voice this past season.
Posted at 12:47 AM on January 22, 2012
I see them the opposite! Cindy was starting to get into it and I thought she was funny towards the end. Was looking forward to seeing what she was like this season. Alex was/is and will be who she really is now. Yeah she found her voice and it's Btchy!! The Bad Egg to me is LUANN!! Oh well just a show.. 8-)
Posted at 4:04 PM on July 31, 2011
Posted at 12:17 PM on July 25, 2011
I completely agree, Sonya is desparate…she is a cougar and craves attention. She thinks its the "Sonya show", but i think she is boring and dry as hell. Cindy, take care of your business and your babies and leave those desparate wanna be, filing bankruptcy ho's in the wind. Team Ciny, she's got her shyt together :-)
Posted at 3:09 PM on September 19, 2011
Sonja and Bravo are going to see real fast the difference between a supporting cast member, which she is, and a woman that can carry a show. Sonja's Golddigging story lines are old and boring. Did you see where she was hitting on the old grey haired doctor? DISGUSTING. Almost as DISGUSTING as her burlesque. Enjoy her Bravo, she is all yours.
Posted at 11:21 AM on July 25, 2011
Team Brunette
Posted at 12:47 PM on July 24, 2011
Posted at 7:58 PM on July 22, 2011
Sonya came off this season and completely desperate for attention. I got real tired, real fast, of her hyper-sexed innuendos. It just really seemed sad. but I'm team Cindy all the way. I'd be surprised if she was on RHONY next season. I don't think she realized what kind of crazy stupid those women really are.
Posted at 1:45 PM on November 12, 2011


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POSTED: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 - 3:30pm
UPDATED: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 - 3:34pm
Shreveport, La — A man is recovering from a gunshot wound while another man is behind bars following a dispute that ended in gunfire.
Shortly after 3:00 p.m.on Tuesday afternoon, Shreveport Police officers arrived at a home located in the 200 block of Oregon Avenue after a man had been shot.
They soon learned that the shooting victim, Isaac Thomas, 26, of Shreveport, suffered a non life threatening graze wound to the head while at another location.
It is believed that Thomas was at a residence located in the 2900 block of Victor Street in north Shreveport, when some sort of dispute involving another man, Scott Knight, 28, occurred. Knight allegedly produced a handgun, using it to strike Thomas against the head causing the weapon to discharge, grazing Thomas.
Authorities believe that Thomas, after being shot, drove to the 200 block of Oregon where he contacted subsequently notified authorities.
Officers quickly located Knight near an abandoned home near David Raines Road at Gordonia Drive, where he was quickly apprehended.
Knight was arrested and booked into the Shreveport City Jail charged with Aggravated Battery and Felon in Possession of a Firearm.


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The Turkey Chair is the most comfortable Turkey Chair on the market!
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Weight: 5 lbs.
Fabric Choice: Realtree AP HD
Mossy Oak Break-Up Infinity
Capacity: 300 lbs.
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Back Height: 21"
Total Width Back/Arms: 19" B
Seat Width: 16"
Seat Depth: 12"
Seat Width: 16"
Seat Depth: 19"
Additional Information
Manufacturer | ALPS Oudoorz |


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EUGENE, Ore. — One person is in the hospital after a crash in West Eugene on Friday afternoon.
Eugene Police say that a motorcycle collided with a pickup truck on Highway 99 between Elmira Road and Royal Avenue. The motorcyclist was taken to Sacred Heart at RiverBend and is reportedly in stable condition.
Traffic is currently restricted to one lane while police investigate the crash.