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Rustic Log Furniture
The popularity of rustic furniture is wide spread due to its appealing design and its ability to bring the great outdoors anywhere. There are many types of rustic furniture, but the basic design concept centers around the ideas of natural beauty and sturdy functionality. Rustic furniture is usually constructed with materials found in nature, such as logs, vines, and bark. Inorganic materials such as metal and paint can also be used to make rustic furniture, especially for added decoration. People purchase rustic log furniture with a variety of locations and situations in mind, but the reason for purchasing such furniture often stems from a desire for a return to simplicity, quality, and longevity.
Popular Uses for Rustic Furniture
One popular use for rustic furniture is that of patio furniture outdoors. Rough hewn tables and chairs are durable, can take bad weather exposure, and bring a touch of the wild to the civility of the backyard. Furniture made from cedar or pine, for example, can provide a comfortable sitting or eating surface for families who want tough, strong furniture that can withstand the elements. Rustic furniture also wears well, obtaining an aesthetically appealing weathered look that only adds to its charm.
Outdoor Rustic Furniture
Other outdoor uses of rustic furniture could be placing wooden log style benches along a wooded path or placing a wooden or stone bench in a garden to create a peaceful sitting place. Rustic rocking chairs make good additions to screened in porches, and rustic loungers can add a touch of class to a pool or shoreline area. Picnic tables are popular outdoor dining options, and rustic porch swings are comfortable and comforting pieces of furniture.
Indoor Rustic Furniture
Rustic furniture is often purchased for indoor use, generally by those people who want to set a certain scene in the house. For example, someone who owns a log cabin or a mountain getaway may want to make the place look like a hunting lodge or an isolated cabin. Typical rustic furniture purchases in that situation would be log style tables and chairs, beds made from chopped wood and twisted vines, as well as end and side tables made of solid, polished wood. Those who are furnishing these types of homes often accessorize using pottery dishes, mounted guns, deer antlers, and the like. Bedspreads and chair coverings are often natural, neutral colors such as shades of brown and yellow. Wood carvings of animals, fishing tackle, and animal pelts are other popular forms of rustic furniture accessories.
Log Cabin Rustic Furniture
While the log cabin style is arguably the most popular rustic furniture style, there are other types of rustic furniture on the market. For example, people outfitting beach cottages may want to purchase driftwood furniture that is made from pieces of wood that wash up on the shore. Other pieces of rustic furniture may incorporate sea shells, nautical paraphernalia, and lighter, brighter wood. Accessories may include various shells, ship models, and deep sea fishing equipment. Wicker furniture can also have a rustic appearance and is a popular beach home staple.
Log Furniture Styles
Rustic furniture does not have to be rough and unpolished. The concept of rustic furniture is a fairly broad one, so decorators may consider styles that emulate that of the American West or colonial influence to be rustic. For many people, rustic furniture must evoke days gone by, and something that is ornately carved or decorated may qualify as rustic. For example, if a person opens up a Western style saloon and investigates what type of furniture to put in the building, he or she may decide to go with thick, solid wood tables and chairs. The player piano may be ornately carved, but it could still be considered rustic because it lends an air of charm and authority to the old-fashioned surroundings.
Rustic Decor
Others may prefer to decorate their homes in a Midwestern Adobe style. Rustic wooden furniture combined with pottery dishes and sculptures can combine to produce a distinctive Midwestern flavor. Accessories for this type of rustic furniture would be Native American blankets with geometric patterns, animal skins, and clay pottery figurines.
Regardless of the particular style the decorator chooses for a space, rustic furniture is available to meet the buyer's needs. Whether a person is seeking to decorate a log cabin, a beach cottage, a country home, or a period restaurant, quality rustic furniture is available in bricks and mortar stores and online for purchase. Potential buyers should research rustic furniture ahead of time in order to have an idea of what they want to purchase for their decorating spaces, although the uniqueness of many rustic furniture pieces often makes specific planning impossible. Many buyers will appreciate the environmentally friendly aspect of rustic furniture as its pieces are often made from material gathered from nature, and buyers also often like supporting the small business craftsman who often make and sell rustic furniture.


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18 Reasons Why Rooting for the Pacers Over the Heat Is Dumb
On Wednesday, the good folks over at Buzzfeed put together yet another one of their massive listicles that get read by billions of people all over the Interwebs.
This one, titled 18 Reasons You Should Cheer for the Pacers Over the Heat, was a doozy.
We assume this is some kind of guide for people who are on the fence on whom to support. Or maybe for people who just need more reason to hate the Heat.
But, upon further review, the arguments for rooting for the Pacers over the Heat fall in on themselves.
Let's take a gander and break down the many reasons why every reason listed is dumb.
What Buzzfeed Says: Because of Paul George who has an average of 21.7 points and 6.8 rebounds per game.
What Pulp Says: Indeed. Root for a guy who is basically the 11th or 15th best player in the league. George didn't even break the top ten in scoring this year and ranked 18th in rebounds. A VOTE FOR THE PACERS IS A VOTE FOR MEDIOCRITY!
What Buzzfeed Says: And because of David West making Chris Bosh look like this.
What Pulp Says: Oh.
(By the way... that was a three-pointer Bosh shot. Over West. He nailed it. Boom.
What Buzzfeed Says: Because of Miami flops
What Pulp Says: LOLOLO OK!
And of course...
Sponsor Content

subset: commoncrawl


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REVIEWS 3/2/2014 **** Dave M. Los Angeles, CA
Jinky's Cafe is a nice place for a semi-casual breakfast or brunch. They have some good, sometimes unusual, options for savory breakfast dishes--lots of stuff with chorizo/soyrizo, and some things with their homemade chili. All of those options are tasty but not amazing. Some of my favorite breakfast choices in the area, especially for the price. Many of their spicy dishes are served with their (famous?) pea guacamole. What's pea guacamole? It's mashed peas with a texture and flavor that, I guess, is somewhat reminiscent of real-life guacamole. This make-pretend variety is actually pretty good, but without the fat and subtle sweetness of avocado, it's just nowhere near as good with an omelette. KBT is a french toast enthusiast, and this is one of the few places that makes it up to her standard--not fancy, but light and well-executed. When she took a bite and said, "this is pretty good," I was shocked but happy. Their service can sometimes be a little slow. If you come in on a weekday, they'll probably have only one waitress working, so you won't see her much. It's not the end of the world, but it is a little annoying. Also, occasionally I've felt that the host/hostess was not very accommodating to what seemed like some pretty reasonable requests, and wasn't very polite about saying so. Again, not the end of the world, but not fantastic either.
See more reviews on Yelp


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Video here: A 'rough' race in The Valley
DORNSIFE – Racers come from states away, yet many people across The Valley don't realize it exists. The LineMountain 4-Wheelers club held their 43rd annual 3 ½-mile off-road race this weekend. According to 25-year-old Sierra Erdman of Shamokin, it's not your usual car race. "With these races, it's not mostly fast," Erdman said. "It is, but it's really good if you can finish a race. It's so rough, that if you can finish, that's an accomplishment." Erdman said the rough terrain — which includes large rocks, tight trees and mud — makes it difficult to get to the finish line. Vehicles racing the track include modified jeeps, buggies, ATVs, dirt bikes and…
Lockcuff tournament to benefit scholarship fund
SUNBURY — While wrestling and golf may be two very different sports, they are both coming together for a great cause June 21. A golf tournament will benefit the Resilite Wrestling Club's Phil Lockcuff scholarship fund. Justin Dunkleberger, a member of the Resilite Wrestling Club and friend of Lockcuff, said Lockcuff's family helped to plan the event. "Something we wanted to do was put together a scholarship and also enhance wrestling," he said. "This golf tournament is going to go toward a scholarship for a boy and a girl at Shikellamy — not just a wrestler — any boy or girl that meets the criteria set up by Resilite and the family. We are…
Remembering a fallen officer in Shamokin Dam
SHAMOKIN DAM – Shamokin Dam residents are taking time today to remember a fallen police officer, who died 30-years-ago on this day, when he was shot and killed while on-duty. Shamokin Dam Mayor Joe McGranaghan was general manager of Sunbury Broadcasting Corporation at the time and found out about the shooting from the WKOK newsroom. McGranaghan said, "I got a call on a Friday night from Peggy Chamberlain, who is now a Snyder County Commissioner, but was then our assistant news director. She told me that she had just gotten word that a Shamokin Dam police officer had been shot and killed on the Old Trail." McGranaghan explained how Officer Charles Attig Jr….
PSP: Car thief killed in high speed wreck
SELINSGROVE — One man died in a fatal crash in Snyder County Saturday. According to State Police in Selinsgrove, 42-year-old Michael Paul Weatherhill of Danville was driving a stolen vehicle at a fast rate of speed on Route 11. Weatherhill was attempting to pass another vehicle as he lost control and struck a rock formation near the Routes 11/15 intersection. Police say Weatherhill was partially ejected as the vehicle flipped several times and landed on its roof. Weatherhill's vehicle slid 300-feet on its roof and impacted the vehicle of two Danville teens. They were not injured. Weatherhill was pronounced dead at the scene. Following an investigation, the vehicle Weatherhill was driving — a 1999 Buick…
Teen shot by Sunbury police now 'serious'
SUNBURY – A teen shot by police in Sunbury has been upgraded from critical to serious condition at Geisinger Medical Center. Police say 17-year-old Naheem Reams was shot in the abdomen Wednesday in Sunbury, following a high-speed chase. Police say Reams tried to run down a police officer with his vehicle. That officer fired one shot, hitting Reams. Charges are pending against Reams following that incident. (Ali Stevens) Follow
Watsontown police catch credit card thief
WATSONTOWN – After releasing a photo of a woman wanted for credit card theft, Watsontown police have arrested the woman. 41-year-old Christa Stover of Dewart was arrested on Friday afternoon and faces 14 charges, including multiple counts of forgery and theft. Stover is accused of taking a card from an ATM that was left in the machine. She then went to Milton and spent more than $233 at four stores. After a 5-day investigation, police identified the woman and searched her residence, where they found the items she had purchased with the card. Stover was arraigned and sent to Northumberland County Prison on $40,000 bail. (Ali Stevens) Follow
Another tax increase at Shikellamy
SUNBURY – The Shikellamy School District hopes to eliminate a deficit in the 2013-2014 budget. Despite cutting spending, and a proposed tax increase, a deficit of about $166,000 remains. Business Manager David Sinopoli said, "Our superintendent proposed three positions be eliminated through attrition. The total of those three positions, which were still in the proposed final budget, is within about $5,000 of the $166,000 deficit, that at this point in time, eliminates the current deficit. But, he says there is still work to be done. He said, "The task now is the proposed final budget does include a 3.5-mill real estate tax increase. The school board now must see if they can lower the 3.5 increase down…


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Blogging. It is so much easier when you know what to write about.
Even so, writing is a resource intensive exercise.
Little wonder, we want to get the most bang for our efforts. If each post we write satisfies every reader deeply, wouldn't that be grand?
While there will be hits and misses, here's how you can learn to be a "topic radar". Practice it enough, you'll end up writing a lot more crowd-pleasing posts than not.
Let's get started.
Find Out What People Are Asking
This is a great place to start. The way the Internet is, you'll never find a shortage of places to find questions people are asking. Very often, you'll find questions specific to your industry. Find questions at:
- Yahoo Answers
- StackExchange
- Quora
- Facebook groups about your industry
- Comments area of blogs you read
- Webinars you attend
- Offline seminars you attend
- Questions people ask you
Stop By The Magazines (and Tabloids)
Print publications are expensive to produce. You know they aren't going to waste their time and money on some just any topic that comes by. They also have to keep advertisers happy by ensuring the magazines are bought and read. Piggy back off their research.
Figure out what the current trends are. Again, with the tools we have today this takes very little know-how. Go to places like:
- Google Trends
- And Facebook (you may not see this if it's not enabled for your account)
Watch For Product Launches
In some industries (like tech), product launches can get talked about for days before and after the event. Though time sensitive in nature, write a good piece around it, you'll be sure to catch some eyeballs. The nice thing about consumer tech launches – you can still write about it even if you don't blog about tech.
Be Aware of What People Share
If you're on Facebook (you'll see it on other social networks too but it's more apparent on Facebook), you'll sometimes notice certain posts get shared over and over by friends. Some things keep cropping up because people talk about it and comment on it. Take a note of those!
These 5 suggestions should keep you plenty busy. If you want more, how about 30 Quick Blogging Ideas? It's a free download and will definitely help you be a more efficient "topic radar".
If you want ideas people have already thought up for you, be sure you are on the BlogEnergizer list. You can also get daily topics via the BlogEnergizer blog topic ideas app for Android, iPhone, iPad and iPod.


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I <3 jam filling and ombre roses. The plate serving the cake slice measures just a tad under 2 cm in diameter.
Techniques used are very similar to those found in Betsy's cake tutorial here: www.cdhm.org/tutorials/making-…
Materials used:
-FIMO and Sculpey brands of polymer clay
-Kato liquid polyclay
-Colored chalk pastels
-J.W.etc. Clear Varnish
-Metal microbeads
-Metal stand purchased from Etsy
-Lacy doily by Jeanetta Kendall
-Ceramic dish purchased from ebay
FAQ: fairchildart.deviantart.com/jo…
Other places you can find me:
My website: www.fairchildartminiatures.com
My store: www.etsy.com/shop/fairchildart
Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/fairchil…
Tumblr: fairchildart.tumblr.com


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Date Posted:08/01/2008, 2:30PM
BRUNSWICK, Maine - The American Volleyball Coaches Association has recognized the Bowdoin College women's volleyball squad for their excellence in the classroom by honoring the Polar Bears with a 2007-08 AVCA Team Academic Award.
The award, which was initiated in the 1992-93 academic year, honors collegiate and high school volleyball teams that displayed excellence in the classroom during the school year by maintaining at least a 3.30 cumulative team grade-point average on a 4.0 scale or a 4.10 cumulative team GPA on a 5.0 scale.
The Polar Bears finished the season with a record of 17-15 under head coach Karen Corey. Bowdoin will open their 2008 campaign on September 5 at the Endicott Invitational.


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Despite the fact that we don't personally know most of you guys, we can tell a lot about you from the contents of your purses. Is that a saying, or did we just make that up? Either way, we certainly think it's true - you can separate a minimalist from a prepared-for-any-situation mom on the go with a single glance at a handbag's contents. No matter which category you fall into (perhaps you're somewhere in the middle), we always love taking a look inside your designer handbags.
Continue to tag your Instagrams with #PBWIMB for your chance to be featured in our Instagram Roundup!
Slide 1 / 8
Check out this pretty pastel Prada Saffiano Bag from @fashion_kc99. Get one just like it via Saks for $1,995.
Slide 3 / 8
@stylishcynic's Coach Men's bag is filled with just about everything you'd need for any occasion. Shop Coach Men's here.
Slide 4 / 8
@michaela_oh's Louis Vuitton Speedy bag is screaming preppy chic. Shop via Louis Vuitton.
Slide 5 / 8
Looks like @flashypigeon is getting her sparkle on just in time for the holidays with her Tiffany Crystal Box Clutch. Shop more Tiffany's handbags here.
Slide 6 / 8
Good reading material and tech necessities inside @itsme_jessa's Prada Saffiano bag. Get it for $1,995 via Saks.
Slide 8 / 8
Lots of zippers filled with lots of goodies inside @leatherforever's Rebecca Minkoff Mini 5 Zip bag. Shop it for $195 via Nordstrom.


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Cisco is the global leader in internetworking technologies. Founded in 1984, Cisco has a proud history of innovation and development in the areas of switching & routing, unified communications, security, mobility, and many others.
CSA is a Cisco Premier Partner, with certification specialisations in Unified Communications and Security. CSA is also a Cisco SMB Select partner, having been recognised by Cisco as a key provider of technology solutions to SMB clients.
In recent years, CSA has been the recipient of numerous Cisco partnership awards, including APJ Partner of the Year, Commercial Partner of the Year and ANZ SMB Partner of the Year. CSA has received these awards in recognition of the highly secure and resilient solutions that CSA offers and delivers to clients. CSA offers solutions utilising the following Cisco products:
• Cisco Unified Telephony Solutions • Switching and Routing • Wireless Networking • Security Solutions • Video Conferencing Systems


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Fans petitioned for Betty to make her 'Raw' debut, and now HollywoodLife.com can exclusively confirm their prayers have been answered!
Betty White is about to go where no Golden Girl has gone before: The WWE ring! Betty, who currently stars on TVLand's Hot in Cleveland, has been tapped to guest star the Feb. 10 episode of USA's Monday Night Raw, HollywoodLife.com has learned exclusively.
The big announcement will be made during Raw's Feb. 3 episode, much to the delight of tens of thousands of fans, who launched a Facebook petition back in 2010, urging for Betty to step into the ring.
Betty White On 'Monday Night Raw': Will She Fight?
Just to clarify, Betty isn't confirmed to face off against any of the Superstars or Divas, but we know one person who'd be thrilled to tango with the TV legend.
"I would love to get her in the ring and show her some moves!" former WWE Diva Kelly Kelly told us back in 2011. "Maybe show her the stink face!"
(And yes, the "stink face" is exactly what you think it is.)
Following Betty's triumphant Raw debut, you can catch her Feb. 28 on the third season of Betty White's Off Their Rockers on Lifetime, and on the fifth season of Hot in Cleveland, premiering March 26 on TVLand.
HollywoodLifers, are you pumped for Betty's turn as Raw host? Drop a comment with your thoughts below.
— Andy Swift
Follow @AndySwift
More WWE:
- CM Punk Quitting WWE Over New Batista Drama — Report
- Batista Fights For WrestleMania Main Event At WWE Royal Rumble 2014
- Batista Returns To WWE 'Monday Night Raw' & Slams Alberto Del Rio
View Comment
Posted at 9:01 AM on February 4, 2014
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Posted at 1:21 AM on February 4, 2014
Posted at 9:45 PM on February 3, 2014
Posted at 9:39 PM on February 3, 2014


text: jeroen at linuxfromscratch.org wrote: > jeroen 04/03/15 11:32:13 > > Modified: alfs manifesto.html > blfs manifesto.html > hints manifesto.html > patches manifesto.html > Log: > Make the headers of the manifesto's more consistent. Removed superfluous homepage links in them. I really wasn't going to say anything because it's such a nitpick, but be careful Jeroen, you're falling into the trap of using "'s" where "s" is correct. Even the "Manifestos" page has this problem :-)


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Tom Cruise will film scenes from his next blockbuster in Scotland in November, it has been reported by the Daily Record. The actor is apparently planning to shoot parts of sci-fi flick All You Need Is Kill in Glasgow.
According to the paper, insiders revealed that plans are in place for him to come from mid November until March with a break for Christmas.
Filming has already begun on the film – that co-stars Emily Blunt – at the Warner Brothers Studio in England.
The movie is based on a Japanese novel by Hiroshi Sakurazaka and tells how a soldier, Cruise, fights aliens who invade the earth.
Cruise's arrival would follow a string of A-list stars who chose to film in Scotland.
Brad Pitt shot World War Z, Halle Berry filmed Cloud Atlas and Scarlett Johansson made Under the Skin.
Related articles
- Tom Cruise misses Suri
- Actress Scarlett Johansson's new movie forces closure of A82
- Hollywood movie Cloud Atlas to be filmed in Edinburgh
- 'That's a wrap': Brad Pitt movie World War Z finishes Glasgow shoot


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Parking and Travel
Car Parking at Cathays Park Campus
There is a limited amount of car parking available at Cardiff University. Due to the expansion and improvement work planned throughout the University each year, there will be some impact on the car parking facilities available. The University has permanently lost car parking space to new projects in the past and there is the possibility that further parking spaces will be lost.
We regret that, due to limited capacity, there is no provision for student parking, with the exception of students with disabilities, whose needs will be met wherever possible. There are also a limited number of permits available to residential students at selected University Residences, for which further information can be found at http://www.cardiff.ac.uk/residences.
Anybody wishing to apply for a parking permit, or to join a waiting list, can do so by downloading and completing the relevant application form, available from the resources section on the right-hand side of this page. Alternatively, if you have any enquiries in regards to applying for parking, please contact Mr Lloyd Bolt, our Security Administration Officer, using the details below.
Mr Lloyd Bolt
Email: email@example.com
Extension: (029) 208 79092
Please note that the only criteria for allocation of a parking permit or position on a waiting list is length of service with Cardiff University. The only exceptions to this rule are approved / newly appointed senior positions in Professional Services and Colleges, or staff with disabilities.
The car parking fees, effective from 1st January 2015 are:
Staff | 0.75% of salary to a maximum of £196.00 |
School/Directorate Vehicles | £196.00 |
Associates / Contractors | £254.00 |
Visiting Lecturers | £196.00 |
Retired Professors with Honary Status (Fee Depends on Usage) | £32.00 |
Retired Professors with Honary Status (Fee Depends on Usage) | £53.00 |
Retired Professors with Honary Status (Fee Depends on Usage) | £79.00 |
Student | £135.00 (Session 2014/15) |
Departmental Car Parking Permits
If you require a new or a renewal Departmental Car Parking Permit, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.com so that we can issue you with a price.
You will then need to raise a requisition on Oracle, using the supplier 'CSERV Car Parking Permits (Departmental)'. Once we have received your Purchase Order, you will be issued with the relevant parking permits. Please note that we will not be able to issue any permit in advance of receiving a Purchase Order.
Upon receiving the permit, you will need to receipt the order on Oracle.
Discounted employee parking at NCP – Dumfries Place
The University has negotiated discounted season ticket parking offering 24/7 parking at the NCP Dumfries Place car park.
Fees Payable
Quarterly | £220.00 Standard price £645 |
Monthly | £74.00 (approx.) Standard price £215 |
Please note that Staff entering into an agreement with NCP do so solely as an individual. The University Car Parking Scheme has no control or involvement in these agreements other than negotiating on behalf of employees to obtain the best possible price and subsequently advertising the service to employees. If you are interested in this service please download the NCP Season Ticket Subscription Form and FAQs letter from the 'Resources' section of this page.


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The first CTS-V, introduced in 2004 with 400 hp, was a fun car. Most memorably, it was available only with manual transmission-not a notably smooth-shifting box, but a first for Cadillac since World War II and a signal that the company was serious about wooing performance-car buyers.
Time Off » Hot Wheels: Low-level Flying
December 1, 2008
The best thing that could have happened to Rolls-Royce and Bentley did happen about a decade ago, when Vickers offloaded these once-revered but faded brands to BMW and VW, respectively. Now a Roller is a Roller again, a shamelessly magnificent execution of automotive opulence and serenity.
October 1, 2008
To a car driver deprived of his view of the road ahead, an SUV hogging the left lane is hardly a welcome sight. The longer it sits there, the more deeply the car driver ponders its often wasteful bulk, its appetite for gasoline and how brilliant it would be to confine these bloated conveyances to their own clogged stream over there on the far right. Who could possibly love an SUV?
August 1, 2008
Aircraft and car builders over the years have mined the alphabet and assayed certain letters as precious metal-GT, R, S, X and Z come to mind-but one five-letter word still stands alone as the medal for power in a pint-size package.
April 22, 2008
Of all the cars that say "poverty does not become me," the soft-top Roller is among the more eloquent.
April 1, 2008
Audi's R8 has been a bright blip on the radar of the car crowd since it was first espied a while back, but this debutant mid-engine two-seater entered the consciousness of a wider population with its fleeting appearance in the Patriots-Giants Super Bowl commercial this winter. The ad spoofed the horse's-head-in-the-bed scene from The Godfather.
February 1, 2008
Of all the cars that say "poverty does not become me," the soft-top Roller is among the more eloquent.
December 1, 2007
A neighbor of mine counts a late-model six-speed Corvette coupe among his household's half dozen cars and nine motorcycles. When I remarked to him that the Shelby GT500 seemed to be attracting more come-hither glances from women than the Z06, he didn't miss a beat: "You been cruising around trailer parks?" The loyalty these cars generate is as fierce now as it was back in the good old days.
October 1, 2007
With the LS600hL, Lexus has given the hybrid propulsion system popularized by the Toyota Prius some serious muscle and cloaked it in luxury robes. The "h" stands for the hybrid V8/electric motor powerplant that drives all four wheels and the "L" is for long wheelbase, which describes the expansive but not quite Maybachian rear passenger area.
August 1, 2007
What's in a name? Would a Ferrari by any other name be as provocative? What if the Ferrari boy had been born into the Focaccia family and christened Sal?
""[Bill Gates] has been historically one of my best supporters…One of my favorite e-mails he ever sent me…I proposed this crazy project. And he sent back this two-line response: 'This has got to be the craziest thing you've ever suggested. Please proceed.'" "
-—former Microsoft CTO Nathan Myhrvold


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11075 East Blvd
Cleveland, Ohio 44106
Our School
Student Life
Our School
Diversity Initiatives
The Stephanie Tubbs Jones Summer Legal Academy
Diversity Initiatives
The Stephanie Tubbs Jones Summer Legal Academy
Law & Leadership Institute
Council on Legal Education Opportunities
Future Connections
Summer Work Experience in Law
Diversity Initiatives
The Stephanie Tubbs Jones Summer Legal Academy
, a partnership of Case Western Reserve University School of Law, the Cleveland Metropolitan Bar Association, the Norman S. Minor Bar Association, and Cleveland-Marshall College of Law, introduces promising African-American high school students to the legal profession. At the Academy, 20 to 25 twelfth grade students participate in a two-week, full day intensive law institute. The Academy presents a case and takes students through the discovery, interview process, and development of both the prosecution and defense sides of the case, and culminates in a Mock Trial, all under the supervision of lawyers and judges. Students also have the opportunity to earn a one-month part-time internship and a small stipend.
The mission of the Academy is to reduce the overwhelming racial inequity in membership of the local bar and bench by introducing minority students to their potential to succeed in college and law school. Cleveland Municipal Court Judge Ronald Adrine, one of the co-founders of the program, states: "Frequently, young minority students labor under the mistaken notion that a career in law is beyond their reach. The Academy services to expand their vision and broaden their horizon."
The Academy attracts students from inner-city and first-ring suburban high schools, as well as greater Cleveland area public and parochial high schools. The 2009 Academy was hosted by Case Western Reserve University School of Law and funded by Case Western, the Law School Admission Council, and the US. District Court, N.D. Ohio. For more information about this program or to inquire about volunteer opportunities, please contact Associate Dean
Sarah Polly
or Professor
Jennifer Cupar
Academic Calendar
ABA Required Disclosures
© 2015 Case Western Reserve University School of Law
A final word:
Our law school is on the rise. Our ranking improved four places in
U.S. News and World Report
's 2015 Best Law Schools, and our applications were up 60 percent over the previous year.
11075 East Boulevard
Cleveland, OH 44106-7148
Admissions: 216.368.3600
Toll Free: 800.756.0036
legal notice


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Montana Woodworks® Homestead Collection 9 - drawer Dresser
Item # WX2-208819
- Google+
Add an additional $150.00 heavy/bulky shipping charge per each.
This item is shipped directly from the factory. To see the expected shipping date, please add to your Shopping Cart. Sorry, no express shipping available. We are unable to ship factory direct items to Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico or APO or FPO addresses.
This item cannot ship to Canada.
This item cannot ship internationally.
- Details & Specs
Deluxe, natural, handcrafted! Montana Woodworks® Homestead Collection 9 - drawer Dresser.
Handcrafted in the mountains of Montana! Enter gorgeous Furniture from Montana Woodworks®, the largest maker of handcrafted, topnotch log furnishings in America.
All crafted from American-grown wood. Each piece is sawn from timbers for a look uniquely reminiscent of the timber-framed homes once found on the American frontier, and hand-sanded smooth.
With its full nine drawers of handcrafted space, this wonderful Dresser will add rustic charm to any master bedroom, while providing storage for all your essentials and delicates. Measures 59 x 21 x 41" h. overall. Comes fully assembled, in your choice of Lacquered, Stained & Lacquered, or Ready to Finish. 20-yr. limited manufacturer's warranty.
Note: log furniture is subject to the natural process of checking or splitting as the wood releases moisture. No compromise on strength, only builds character.
State Finish, as available in the Shopping Cart.
- Reviews
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- Articles & Tips
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Buyer's Club $269.99 Non-Members $299.99 -
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Buyer's Club $395.99 Non-Members $439.99


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What could I do with this yard?
I am daydreaming about landscaping our new yard. I'm not an experienced gardener and would LOVE ideas. Browsing photos, I like English garden & cottage style, and the idea of using native plants. Not prim and proper but a planned wild look. I want some berry shrubs that birds like. I am in the mountains of NC, zone 7a, acidic soil. Most of our yard is on the side of the house. The pictures are in afternoon sun/shadows.
The rock wall has wisteria at one end and a dogwood at the other. Either or both could go and I wouldn't be upset. I was thinking of an English garden look on the top of the wall. The only idea I have had is burgundy helianthemum.
I don't like the hostas or the shapes made of mulch around the trees. What about a row of 6' evergreen bushes with berries for the birds and for privacy in the very back? Maybe natives like mountain laurel or rhododendron between the trees to the right of the chairs? I don't know what would look good in place of the hostas/mulch shapes. Ferns and herbs are nice.
The words that come to mind when I look at this yard are "amorphous" and "random." The only bit of structure you've got is the wall, other than the few woody and evergreen plants that is, one of the latter of which you've removed. The few linear aspects are awkward to say the least, a flowering tree at each end of the wall, and the fencepost trees that Isabella points out.
The things you are visualizing to add are also amorphous.
Cottage gardens are billowy, messy things that to me are only tolerable when they occur in conjunction with hardscape, straight lines, or some form of containment, even crisp edges in a bright green lawn, ideally with a wide section of bare soil or mulch - frame and matting, as it were. Not a coincidence that English cottage gardens are often planted with a backing of severe hedges or fences.
People do tend to fall in love with the idea of native plants, but not with the plants themselves. Burgundy helianthemum, for example, is the antithesis of a native plant; highly selected for qualities that appeal to humans. That aside, native plants are often also amorphous, having little shape or other garden-worthy attributes. That's why they've remained largely untapped for gardening use until it became politically expedient to do so; it has never been expedient for decorative purposes. Random placement of amorphous bushes and plants creates a certain effect, it may or may not be what you want.
Question for you is, do you want more of the style that's already there, or do you want to change it?
You say you're not a gardener.... what you do have here is lots of room to try some stuff out before you fall into some very common traps that non-gardeners trying to landscape often do. For example, putting a flower garden, in which everything looks good for about 15 days of the year but almost nothing looks good at the same time, in a prominent position. Or putting something that needs sun and moisture under those trees (I'm guessing the hostas are there for a reason - not much else will likely grow; sadly the hostas are planted in little rings at the base of the trees which looks silly). Ferns yes, but herbs, no.
In short, you've got some spaces to plant the things you want, but put them where they will grow well - herbs and flowers in sun, ferns in shade - and think about the 350 days they aren't doing exactly what you select them for before you do.
To start, you might put a small cottage garden at the wall where it will be easy to maintain, a berry bush or two behind the mailbox with the hostas there, and some ferns under the trees. The grass will be dying out under the trees gradually due to root competition so you might reshape the beds with that in mind.
Sorry, missed your item about the row of evergreens at the back. That would probably provide a nice background/framing effect. Berrying is always good; I like putting things that attract birds where I can see them from the house.
I'm really not sure you'll get anything to grow under the trees to the right of the chairs. Depends how deep the tree roots are. And the bed behind the mailbox probably was the home of a tree until recently, one that left its hostas behind. That bed has potential, with a better shape, to be sort of a purposeful bed. Could screen you from the road and look nice.
Yes KarinL, I definitely want to change the style, just trying to figure out how to do it tastefully. The wisteria is a big ugly mass of vines for most of the year. I joke that the mulch shapes look like giant amoebas. I laughed out loud when I read about the hosta loosing it's tree. The mulch is mostly gone and the black weed blocker underneath is very old and tattered. It will have to be removed or replaced which makes it a perfect time for change. Moss is growing through the weed block in the back (small grove area).
The white azalea bush was a casualty when the maple fell on it. Sounds like I should put another evergreen in it's place for hardscaping. Would you put the small cottage garden below the wall, on top of it, or a little of both?
I'm not sure what would make the yard less amorphous. Would that require shapes like conical evergreens? Creating rectangular or square beds?
In the summer, the 10 fencepost trees screen the view of the highway at the bottom of the hill, but I see what you're saying about them looking out of place. I'm sure the neighbor would appreciate them being removed. Thank you for the ideas.
KarinL wrote: "That's why they've remained largely untapped for gardening use until it became politically expedient to do so; it has never been expedient for decorative purposes."
This statement glosses over the other reasons that native plants have remained largely untapped. Many California native plants, in particular, have been widely used for landscaping purposes in England for centuries, but have rarely been used in California. This originated due to the fact that back when most Americans' yards were newly converted from wilderness areas, having non-native plants was an easy way to signify that some effort had been put into planting things that hadn't originally been there. In more recent times, large corporations have promoted continued use of non-native plants because it's more profitable for them to grow a smaller variety of plant species and be able to sell them across a wide geographic range.
Product driven design is never as good as purpose driven design. Figure out how you use the property, how yu want to use it, and the experiences you want and don't want to have while doing your things. That will go a long way to removing "amorphous' from the description.
Then you can use all of the "products" (plants and amenities) that you may have on your list when and where they make sense. Enhance the good experiences and mitigate the bad and all will be well.
This originated due to the fact that back when most Americans' yards were newly converted from wilderness areas, having non-native plants was an easy way to signify that some effort had been put into planting things that hadn't originally been there.
Good explanation!
There are many beautiful native plants available in the nursery trade now - many of them having taken a tour of European gardens before making their way back over here as "worthy" plants.
Natives are an important part of the ecosystem around you and I always encourage people to consider using them - and using them just as you would any other garden shrub/tree/perennial. Native insects nibble on them, native birds eat those insects - they are the backbone of what supports native life in your area (and you likely have some natural areas around you).
Of course understanding the sun/shade environments that you have will be important to determining what plants will do best once you decide on the approach you want. Attracting and supporting birds means that you need the food and cover plants that they need - and food includes insects. Sun loving plants like Wax myrtle, viburnums and hollies (check into native viburnums and hollies, including deciduous hollies) will provide food and cover. In a small out of the way area, let a casual brush pile build up - that provides cover too. Native azaleas would be nice - choose a fragrant one like R. canescens.
The link below is for Georgia, but there is lots of overlap with NC, so you may find it helpful.
Here is a link that might be useful: Native plants in the Piedmont
I'm not familiar with the needs of gardening in your zone but that property looks like it has a lot of potential. There are three things I would focus on. The first is what you want closest to the house re patio space for dining and seating etc. and other recreational space needs re lawn etc. Second, I'd bring that wisteria under control and make it easier to manage. Third, I'd make a woodland garden in the tree zone. An understory layer would ease the abrupt transition between the short lawn and tall trees.
Only you can decide what it needed in the entertainment/living areas near the house.
I'd prune the wisteria to be a small tree rather than a messy tangle of branches. You will need to control (eliminate) root suckers and seedpods to prevent it spreading (I'm assuming it's likely a Chinese wisteria...?) If it's kept as a tree with lawn around it, mowing the grass will keep the root suckers under control. Later, as you become more experienced at gardening and perhaps want to develop flower gardens near it, you may be more confident about recognizing and removing suckers that appear in flowerbeds. But for now, keep it simple and use the lawn mower for control. When the leaves drop in the fall, remove all seed pods that you see to prevent it seeding around. Keep the tree pruned short enough so you can easily get to the seed pods. Discard the seed pods in the garbage, not into compost or just drop to the ground. There are lots of complicated 'rules' for pruning wisteria but my experience has been that they do just fine if you prune all season long as whippy new growth arises. A bonus is that the Chinese wisteria contiues to produce flowers all summer - not profusely but noticeably - from where it been pruned.
I'd lay out paths in the tree zone and then plant understory trees, shrubs, perennials and grouncovers. The paths give structure, add interest and make maintenance easier. You want plants with interesting flowers, foliage and mass because, if it's like my woodland garden, there will be mosquitoes in summer so you want to admire things from a distance in peak bug season! (Get a bug suit for gardening in bug season...!) Be generous with the width of the woodland garden - you want 20-30', not just a skimpy bit at the base of the trees.
Have fun - it looks like lots of potential to have a beautiful garden.
Everyone's responses have really gotten me thinking. I have a lot to learn before I start planting. I went to the library and checked out a bunch of books, several on shade gardening.
Woodyoak, I love the idea of a woodland garden!! The information you gave me on creating that is very helpful. We would love to have a picnic table or concrete table in that small grove of trees. (The chairs were the previous owners.) Along with a brick grill or fire ring so we could cook out and feel like we were at a campsite. The problem with that vision is no privacy. It would feel like we were on display because of the openness to the road. Could anyone suggest plants that would screen between the road and small grove without looking like we are unfriendly?
I especially appreciate the tips on pruning the wisteria. Such a weird plant with giant, furry seed pods. If you want to see something really scary, the link below shows the wisteria in the backyard.
Here is a link that might be useful: Backyard Wisteria
For privacy - I'd continue the woodland garden around to the road side - i.e. plant trees, shrubs, perennials that continue in an L from where you'd create the woodland area from the existing trees. You might want to buy as large shrubs and trees as you can afford so they'd fill in fast.
Get rid of those furry wisteria seed pods - they will explode in the first warm days of spring and fling their seeds around. Then you will have lots of seedlings to contend with too. Be ruthless in cutting back the wisteria to one or two trunks and keep it limbed up and new growth pruned back. Be particularly vigilant for root suckers and remove any that you see. Ideally you rip them off to remove the bud wood on the roots but, practically speaking, it may be easier to just control them by mowing if there is grass all around tree. We keep our Chinese wisteria 'tree' to about 8-9' tall which is a nice size that still alows easy access for pruning and seed removal. It'll take a bit of work to get yours into decent shape but then - if you don't neglect it - it would become easy routine. One thing that comes in handy is long arm pruners to make it easy to reach the top of the tree.
You can see our Chinese wisteria 'tree' at the far end of the bed in the picture. It's not quite 10 years old and we'll not let it get any bigger. The stake at the near end has a young Japanese wisteria that will also be kept to a tree form of about the same size as the Chinese one.
Here is a link that might be useful: long arm pruners
Yes, edging would be a huge improvement even if you didn't change a single other thing. But you should make sure the shapes of the bed and the lawn suit you before you install any edging. Woody's looks maaahvellous. Maybe you can find her old thread about making this bed, as making the grass path was a central impetus.
Since privacy is a preference, a bed similar to this (but wider in your case) along behind the mailbox seems like an obvious idea, maybe with your berry bushes.
Frankly, what Woody describes as being needed to control the wisteria would have me taking that thing out with utmost haste. You'll have to decide if you have the attention span for such a sustained workload. The word "suckers" is enough to have me getting out my shovel.
Sorry to have set the rest of you off with what I admit was a spiteful reference to native plantings. While there is truth in what you both say, QBC and Esh, it should be noted that I live in the PNW, where a single salal plant colonizes most of the coastal areas from Port Hardy to Portland, forming understory to some of the world's largest trees and underplanted in their turn with the ubiquitous and uninspiring sword fern. OK, I'm kidding a bit. But I've been gardening throughout the time in which native plant nazis have emerged, and in an area in which much of the native flora that they have been nagging me to grow simply isn't all that garden worthy for one reason or another - too big, too aggressive, too finicky, too ugly. And this may be the case almost anywhere. Native plants are, after all, evolved to succeed against whatever odds exist in your area. When you create a garden, you usually mitigate those odds, and so the plant, once protected from those odds, may well overwhelm your other tender or modest specimens.
Specimens which, in my case by the way, are almost always natives of someone else's area. One vendor of rhododendrons referred to me as a "species snob," so I'm like a global native plant afficionado. But that means I like the rhodos that are less likely to have those big trusses of aggressively coloured flowers. In other words, less likely to be considered garden-worthy by other people. The plants are less likely to be spectacular, less likely to have the attributes that we need for landscaping, and more likely to be space hogs.
I mean, that's why more of us grow Chamaecyparis or juniper cultivars than the species, right? The Chinese wisteria really sort of exemplifies the issue.
That's why I said most people fall in love with the idea, but not necessarily with the plants. Cultivars didn't just arise to serve the industry, but became popular because they met a gardening need that local native plants in many areas did not meet.
Sorry for the detour.
Being new to landscapeing you do have one advantage over plant collectors and that is not having to own lots of them and trying to find a place for them all. This will allow you to concentrate more on the functions of the site and the forms (most likely evergreen and hardscape) needed to bring your vision to life. Starting from this vantage point allows you not to be tied to a particular plant or plant groupings.
There are certainly some native species that I wouldn't allow in my yard; poison oak would be the most obvious example. But from my perspective, having identified 45 species volunteering in my yard that I didn't plant, and finding that only 4 of them are native, it seems to me that the non-native invasives are the ones gardeners should worry far more about being unable to control. Native plants are not showing much evidence at all in my yard of being able to outcompete the non-natives.
The 4 native species that have volunteered in my yard without me planting them are:
1) two cottonwood tree seedlings, which I pulled because the yard isn't big enough for them;
2) yellow nutsedge, which had taken over half the yard before I realized it wasn't anything I'd planted, but which I dug up all of about a year ago and have had hardly any volunteers of since (I wish I could say anywhere near the same thing about the non-native Bermuda grass!);
3) common bedstraw, which I have a few of in some out-of-the way corners but which doesn't seem to spread into my regular gardening area, so I've only occasionally pulled one or two and just ignored the remaining one or two; and
4) tall annual willowherb, which I've never pulled any of because even though it's not terribly pretty, at least it's green and doesn't take over the yard like the non-native weeds do.
None of these are desirable plants in my yard, but every single one of them - even the yellow nutsedge, which is by far the worst-behaved among the four - is a million times easier to control than the worst of my non-native weeds: Bermuda grass, annual bluegrass, hare barley, Oxalis pes-caprae, bindweed, spotted spurge, prostrate spurge, common knotweed, low amaranth, common and mouse-ear chickweed . . . I could go on. And on. And on.
For all I know, maybe you get native weeds that are even harder to control than my non-native weeds. But without knowing what your weeds are, I'm inclined to suspect the reverse. I'd like to offer a trade: my weeds for your weeds, even though I don't know what yours are! Because in my experience, the adaptations of native species are really not anywhere near as formidable as the adaptations of the invasive aliens: plants that evolved to survive in even more harsh conditions elsewhere and that, when brought into my yard where they get more rainfall or fewer insect pests or whatever than they're used to, become absolutely unstoppable. I can match your single salal plant taking over the PNW with a single yellow starthistle, a single gigantic mat of Bermuda grass, a single humongous forest of Chinese tree-of-heaven, and so on, that have taken over half the continent or even more than that. I'd rather have the salal, which at least only takes over a few states instead of a majority of them.
I'm learning a lot from everyone's opinions on natives. Sounds like I need to get rid of all the wisteria because it's on the list of plants that can crowd out native plants and harm the local ecosystem. I've identified another invasive in my yard, the Tree-of-Heaven. From what I've gathered, I can have helianthemum without upsetting the balance, even thought it's not native.
I did manage to find woodyoak's post talking about the edging, and pictures of a fabulous woodland garden with mulch paths! What a beautiful yard.
Curious, how do you create a bed with no edging, like in the link below? Is it a lot of work to maintain? Seems like you would damage some of the plants at the edge of the bed when mowing.
Here is a link that might be useful: grass path
Native plants are, after all, evolved to succeed against whatever odds exist in your area. When you create a garden, you usually mitigate those odds, and so the plant, once protected from those odds, may well overwhelm your other tender or modest specimens.
Certainly there are aggressive plants in the right conditions. Plants which sucker or produce large amounts of seed are the candidates for that. By and large, I don't find that native plants in my area (the southeast) have these tendencies - that is, most of them are well behaved in a garden. I think you unfairly paint natives with a broad brush of distaste in saying this. Whenever someone is choosing plants for a garden, characteristics should be evaluated. Resources are available for people to do this, especially with the internet. If you look up common elderberry, for example, suckering is noted as a characteristic.
Chinese privet, japanese honeysuckle, mahonia, callery pear, elaeagnus ... those are the ones seeding into my yard, the ones that would happily overwhelm any thing I have should I let them. I have the native butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa, host of the Monarch butterfly) producing large amounts of seed - unfortunately none of those seeds has successfully germinated in my yard, even when I pluck them and put them directly on the ground (rather than let them drift on the wind).
in an area in which much of the native flora that they have been nagging me to grow simply isn't all that garden worthy for one reason or another - too big, too aggressive, too finicky, too ugly.
This of course is just one person's opinion. And "finicky"? I thought you said they might overwhelm in ideal conditions? Anyway, I think you're being a bit harsh and I wish you could see the good in using some natives.
hollan - maintaining a grass edge is easy or difficult depending on the type of grass. If you have a creeping grass like bermuda or zoysia, it is more work. For a clumping grass like fescue, it is not so hard at all. You just use a sharp shovel to tidy it up as needed. I have zoysia and I have to tidy up the edges due to runners once a year. Bermuda is more aggressive.
On the subject of native plants, I want to try to fill in the blanks in my position, which I feel has been unnecessarily and unhelpfully miscast. Fortunately, you have been given some good advice on plant choices as well, in keeping with Laag's excellent and succinct advice to look for plants that meet your needs.
My original remark was intended to address the usefulness of native plants specifically in landscaping, not the merits of planting native plants in general, and definitely not the issue of what plants are the most aggressive weed species. While I appreciate the merits of planting natives in any given area, I stand by my original remark in general, and for landscaping in particular: that native plants are not always as exciting to grow as is the idea of growing them. I realize that the validity of my views will vary from region to region, but from what I've read and from what I know of the plant world, there is likely to be some degree of truth everywhere to the fact that native plants are not as likely to meet common landscaping objectives to the extent that their romanticizers suggest.
I hope that this revisitation of the subject will be useful to the OP as well as to lurkers, although I admit to being driven to deliver it by a need to vent some spleen at being treated like an ignoramus and a bigot by people playing the role of native plant zealots. That doesn't help the cause any more than does idealizing the plants.
The quality of the responses from Esh and QBC are very typical of the degree to which native plants are romanticized without regard for what people wanting to landscape typically are after: plants that perform a certain function for human purposes. In fact, I won't even have some of my native plant books in the house anymore (I have them in storage) because they exude a supercilious attitude just sitting on the shelf. An exception is Kruckeberg on plants of my region, although he is also in storage at the moment so I can't check my reference, but he writes with refreshing honesty that not all native plants are gardenworthy. It is to him that I owe my earlier observation about Salal, and I believe he also makes the point about its irritating corollary, which is that it is also hard to establish. So... yes, both finicky and aggressive, though I did mean to apply the terms separately, as I'm sure you understood, Esh.
Many plants of the Pacific Northwest are very finicky. They are so specialized to their micro-environments that growing them in gardens is often not possible. Alpines are an obvious example, but even excepting those... Garry oaks, for example, gorgeous trees which thrive on Vancouver Island, do not do well just across a narrow straight in Vancouver where I live, although I can and do grow some of the Garry oak meadow plants such as Camassia. The fascinating Arbutus menziesii, with its peeled red trunks, grows only clinging to rocks on the coast and is not a fan of what one might consider more favourable growing conditions in gardens. And don't get me started on Erythroniums, Dodecatheons, and Cornus canadensis. The number of times I've bought those plants...!
More or less when Esh posted his/her last remarks, I was outside giving a small whoop of triumph at seeing that my Trillium luteum/sessile (supposed to be one, looks more like the other) is up. Though not native to my area, this is another species plant (ie native to somewhere) I've tried more times than I care to have paid for, but my current success is not going to help my landscaping any. Why? Because this lovely little plant goes summer dormant, as do many woodlanders as a mechanism to cope with their very dry summer conditions. This is why they are called ephemerals. Sadly for the aspiring landscaper, though they may cover the ground with some of the prettiest foliage there is along with bewitching flowers, Dicentra cucullaria, Anemone nemorosa, Sanguinaria canadensis... all native in some part of North America - are thus of no use in landscaping at all. For me, they are anti-landscaping: to avoid losing them I keep them in pots, which stand around looking empty all summer (and attracting weeds). In other words, I actually compromise the overall look of my garden in summer to grow them (and interplanting with something that grows in summer works only rarely. Your hostas or whatever will outcompete the ephemeral, plus you'll inevitably lose track of where it is and dig it up with a weed or damage it while dividing the hosta).
As for aggressive... Species shrubs, in contrast to the ephemerals, are often not suited to urban gardens because they are all too present. Take for example, Holodiscus discolor. Here's a typical sales pitch description from a King County website: "Oceanspray is an under-utilized plant in northwest gardens. It does exceedingly well on dry slopes and at the edge of deciduous forests of alder and cascara. It can also stand alone as a feature plant in a garden (best as a big, fountain like cluster), or at the back of a border. More tolerant of sun than many other natives, it can even survive on the edges of freeways without any extra watering. It does grow slower in full shade, but still survives well. The large, white to cream, lilac-like flower plumes are dazzling in late spring to early summer gardens. The flowers then turn a tan to brown color and last on the plant through winter." Now, Holodiscus is a huge, rangy shrub that flowers white for a brief period, and then... thats it. Totally unspectacular foliage, annoying dead flower heads, and no form or structure to speak of, not even good fall colour. Now, if you have a large property that you want to fill in or where you need a privacy screen, Holodiscus is a great choice. But if you have a typical 33 foot lot in the city, this plant is big enough to be your entire landscaping (back of a border - are you kidding? This plant won't leave room for a border), and it will thrill you exactly one week of the year (and that only mildly) and you will hate it for the rest of the time. No wonder people prefer, say, Rhododendrons. Even a butterfly bush is an improvement; at least it flowers at a time when bloom is welcome. "underutilized?" I don't think so. Important for the ecosystem to grow it? Maybe. Does that make it a great landscaping shrub? No.
One reason I suggested that native plants might be a disappointment to this OP was that the look the OP wanted was suggested by the mention of the cottage garden and the burgundy helianthemum. The long flowering period, heavy flowering, and designer colour are simply not typical of native plants that grow easily. (Perhaps California plants are an exception, but most of us don't live there).
The OP also had an expressed wish for berrying plants, for the birds. Now, there are probably birds that are specialized to certain types of berries, but my birds are definitely not native plant snobs. They do not disdain my designer elderberry (Guincho purple) and our local hummingbirds are quite keen on my Baptisia australis, native to an area as far from me as you can get without leaving North America. Not that it's a berrying shrub, but I hope it helps to illustrate the point. My bees are also ecstatic to encounter the blooms of Cimicifuga/Actea dahurica, native to the other side of the Pacific; they are on this plant almost full time while it blooms and they stagger away absolutely loaded with pollen. Believe me, I am all for attracting and sustaining birds and bees, but a plant doesn't have to be native to do that, and non-natives may not be the best way to do that in any case. A flourishing non-native plant will offer more food to birds than will an anemic native struggling to grow (and not berrying much) in an environment it does not relish. Though the point made by a writer at this link (http://www.stanford.edu/~rawlings/birds.htm) is relevant (native plants attracting a greater variety of birds and sustaining them in different ways) note that one plant he recommends for birds is poison oak, one that even QBC won't grow. This is an example of the fact that growing native plants often requires compromises, aesthetic or otherwise, that many people are just not going to want to make.
As QBC (ironically) pointed out, most people landscape as a way to make their gardens different from the surrounding wilderness. That is perhaps why plants from elsewhere have always appealed to people. And then the specific needs of the tended landscape have driven the development of plants that meet year-round human needs better. Of course, nowadays the surrounding "wilderness" is more often suburbia, and people are driven to differentiate themselves from that, thus the option of a native plant garden appeals to a lot of people. More power to them if they pursue that on their own. But before advising that approach, I think one needs to respect the objectives of the people one is advising.
While there are excellent reasons to plant native plants in all areas, I don't think people should be encouraged to believe that native plants will meet their aesthetic needs as well as the more cultivated plants are likely to do. That will only lead to disillusionment with the whole concept. What works best for me is to be willing to try plants from everywhere and to settle on the ones that seem to enjoy my conditions, respect my boundaries, and meet the needs that I, the bees, and the birds all have.
PS I'll let some others jump in on both where to put the English cottage garden and on maintaining woodland paths; you'll get better advice from people with that experience.
Here is a link that might be useful: On growing Arbutus
Yep, function first. How do you want to use specific areas of the property? You've made a good start on that with the woodland/shade area. Keep thinking in the same vein on other parts of the property.
Re the grass path in the picture, Esh is right that it depends on the kind of grass, and also on how much time and effort and money you want to spend maintaining the absolutely perfect sod shown in the picture. Most normal lawns include runnering grasses and weeds.
If you are looking at mowed grass paths, there are a couple of ways you can go, depending on how much 'garden edge' you are dealing with. (And in designing the garden areas, keep this in mind.... A longer edge that encloses a larger area is a *lot* easier to maintain against incursions of grass than a number of smaller areas. Plan small continents, not island chains.)
One method, you can sink edging. Doesn't have to be obvious or unsightly, but don't stint on depth. Edging that goes down only 3 or 4 inches might as well not be there at all. The runner grasses just giggle, hold their breaths, and dive underneath.
Another method, fairly heavy mulching of the garden areas with a once-or-twice-a-year shovel cut deep along the edge, and weed out any incursions.
You will still have to do weed-outs with the edging in place. And will still want to mulch the garden areas, even with the edging. It's just that there are always complex trade-offs between money and time. There will probably be more yearly weeding time without the edging. I skip the edging, but that's me, and in my environment.
And, no, the plants should not be damaged by the path-mowing. You always want to leave a 'mowing edge'. That is, the edging or the mulch should always be a little farther out than the planting area.... Maybe 6 inches. I've usually used bricks laid flat and sunken half-way about 4 inches away, as something for the mower wheels to actually ride along. But you will have a lot more space to deal with, and the brick edge will probably be to expensive and unwieldy.
I would tell you to eradicate the wisteria...but you probably won't be able to get rid of it entirely. It's a pest in our neck of the woods. Dig it up...cover it with glysophate...it will be back.
I work at a garden center in the Piedmont. We always suggest people try to live with what they have for a year before making big changes. There are LOTS of "english garden" type plants that will do well in 7A...you need to find a good, local, independant garden center and make friends with the staff. They will help you. You also need to figure out whether deer are an issue. It can make an ENORMOUS difference in what you plant.
karin - I didn't mean to come across as a native plant zealot (which has a negative connotation) any more than you meant to come across as advocating that people should not use native plants at all. Of course not all plants are garden worthy and one should not expect to pluck any plant out of it's specialized habitat and use it in the garden. Trilliums are a perfect example of lovely plants that can only be appreciated in certain places and only for a certain amount of time. Your example of having Trillium luteum as a plant in your garden - far from it's home in the southeastern US - illustrates how you cannot just have any plant thrive wherever you want it. Some plants are more adaptable than others! The non-native garden plants that fill nurseries are those which explorers discovered, brought back and cultivated. These are the ones that survived. For each one that survived and can be purchased today, many more didn't make it.
I don't think people should be encouraged to believe that native plants will meet their aesthetic needs as well as the more cultivated plants are likely to do. That will only lead to disillusionment with the whole concept.
I can only speak for the natives in the southeastern US, but there are plenty of garden worthy native shrubs (just to pick one category): Fothergilla, Itea, Rhododendron, Kalmia, Physocarpus, Clethra, Viburnum, Illicium, Vaccinium, Ilex, Callicarpa, Aronia/Photinia, Calycanthus, Hydrangea, Hypericum, Sambucus - to name a few that I can find in better nurseries. Most of these have been cultivated and improved cultivars are now available. You can buy them in 1, 3, 5 gallon containers - all ready to plant.
Just as you seem to want people to believe that natives cannot satisfy a need for beauty and good behavior, I want people to know that the choices are there and they can be just as beautiful.
growing native plants often requires compromises, aesthetic or otherwise, that many people are just not going to want to make
Thanks to cultivation programs, I think that this opinion is becoming less true. Unfortunately, many folks aren't even tuned into thinking about native plants as a characteristic to consider. If they have a design done, most of the plants chosen won't be native; if they go to the store to buy plants on their own, most of the plants they will encounter will be non-native and 99% of the time any plant tag on them won't even mention where the plant is indigenous. The average consumer won't even know unless he/she does research outside of the store. And these days the two drivers of plant purchases seem to be: flowers and privacy. It either has to have non-stop flowers or be evergreen. And that's as far as some people get.
Anyway, sorry to hijack your thread, hollan, but just as karin wants to make sure her point is clear, I also like to make sure that the native "cause" (as it has to be called) is accurately represented. Properly selected natives can be just as beautiful as their non-native counterparts.
mjsee - given that it's difficult and frustrating to try to eradicate the wisteria, I think controlling it is the easier option. It appears to be in an easily accessible area which will make it simplier, especially if the root suckers can be controlled by mowing. If the OP takes the same approach to pruning as we do (i.e. pinch/cut off all whippy new grow as it arises), it takes very little time to do. Our wisterias are where we walk past them several times a day so we just pinch out the growth as we pass by. If we missed for some reason and the growth has stated to become woody, or if the growth is on the top of the tree, it might take a minute or so to go to the garage and get the secateurs or long-arm pruners to snip it off. It's certainly not an onerous task but you do need to be diligent about it. While the bloom period is not long (about 10 days here), it is so over-the-top spectacular when it blooms that it is worth the small amount of effort required to keep it controlled. And control is the easier option by far!
This is one of my favorite pictures from the garden - a young friend dropped by, perfectly color-coordinated with the wisteria which was in peak bloom. Beauty has a price and a little pruning effort is a small price to pay!
I had no idea the mention of natives would turn this into a hot post.
That definitely is a beautiful wisteria!! I can tell you really know how to care for it. The one in our back yard looks more like a huge blob of vines, held up by five or six 4x4 posts. It looks like a science fiction creature in the winter, but I recently saw a whole flock of birds hiding inside it during a heavy snow. I didn't even know what the plant was in the fall, so I didn't remove the seed pods. Now they are broken apart all over the yard so no telling where it will try to pop up now.
For the landscape design, everyone's ideas have brought me a lot further along, but I am still stumped about the layout near the road. As far as the side yard's purpose, right now it is just a basement workshop entrance. It needs to function like a back yard since it is the largest part of the lot, but it has lack of privacy like a front yard. Soon we will have a table, chairs, and lighting for eating outside in the area that will be the small woodland garden, with grass paths that lead to the front and back yards. In the next few years, we would like to build a deck off the side of the house, over the basement door, with stairs down, toward the outdoor table area. I plan to remove the mulch shapes and the hostas. The purpose of the part of the side yard near the road (the rectangle from the mailboxes to the edge of the rock wall and over to the fence post row of trees) would only be for privacy and curb appeal. In that area, could someone suggest a design that would have all of this:
- privacy from the road
- an attractive and friendly layout (as opposed to a line of thick, solid hedges)
- using very little or no mulch (I assume that would be planting only shrubs or trees with low branches.)
- a balancing effect where now it is just tall trees or tiny hostas
Plant ideas don't have to be native. I would prefer lower maintenance than privet and wisteria because I don't spend time in the yard every day. Evergreen or deciduous doesn't matter because we wouldn't be out there in the winter.
Your wisteria is lovely. I tend to overreact to wisteria. Our former home had wisteria growing wild in the empty lot behind us. Took a LOT of my time keeping it out of my yard. We bought our current home13 years ago. Its garden was let go by the previous owner...and 13 years into it I'm JUST bringing some of the more egregious plants in line. No wisteria, thank goodness...but plenty of microstegium and honeysuckle. Not to mention the English ivy. I hate English Ivy in a landscape situation. Pots are a whole 'nother thing.
Lots of vinca minor as well...but it isn't too bad to keep under control. It's evergreen and the deer leave it alone...so I've made my peace with it.
Consider some kind of fencing? Doesn't need to be ugly straight-line solid fencing.... Lots of variability that you can put together yourself. A 'divider' but not a wall.... Do a little browsing.
Something in a casual, sort of open, wood fence, with variable heights and either curves or angles to tie the rock wall to the end of the treeline, might give you some structure along this too-open area.
You could then plant different kinds of shrubs or perennials to either side, and create something friendly and attractive from both the streetside and the yardside, but still have the sense of privacy. A separate 'room'.
The inside of this fencing as it ties into the rock wall might be a great place to do your cottage garden. These usually are easier to manage with some sort of solid background.... The base of the rock wall, and spread it around along the inside of the fencing. This could be very good.
Just a thought....


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February 9-11, 2011
Boca Raton, Florida
$795 members / $995 nonmembers / $250 student members
Fees include all workshops and scheduled meals.
For your convenience, a package is available for your guest for a fee of $99 (USD). This package only includes the dinner receptions on Wednesday and Thursday evenings. Conference sessions are not included.
Register by January 10, 2011 and take US$100 off the regular program registration fee. (Before January 10, 2011, $695 ISM members/$895 nonmembers, after January 10, 2011, $795 ISM members/$995 nonmembers)
Office Depot, Inc. (Conference Center), 6600 N Military Trail, Boca Raton, FL 33496 and Embassy Suites Boca Raton, 661 NW 53rd St, Boca Raton, FL 33487. Transportation is provided for Embassy Suites Boca Raton hotel guests to Office Depot's Conference Center. Please refer to your confirmation letter for details.
Embassy Suites Boca Raton 661 NW 53rd St Boca Raton, FL 33487 561/994-8200 |
To receive the ISM hotel rate, use Group Code C-ISM. Use this link to book your hotel using the special ISM web site: www.ism.ws/2345. The ISM rate is available until January 20, 2011 or until the room block is sold out, whichever comes first. Rate: $159/single; $169/double. A complimentary breakfast is included for all ISM guests staying at the Embassy Suites. Also included in your room registration is free Internet access.
Notification of your cancellation must be in writing. Cancellations received up to the day prior to the program are subject to a US$100 cancellation charge. No refunds are given once the program has begun. Registrants who fail to attend a program are not entitled to a refund. ISM must be contacted within 30 days of the program completion in order for a refund to be considered. ISM reserves the right to substitute speakers. If the program is not held for any reason, ISM's liability is limited to the program fee.
Satisfaction with all programs is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with this program, we will refund your registration fee. (All ISM Cancellation and Refund Policy guidelines must be followed.)
From time to time, we use photographs of participants in our promotional material. By virtue of your attendance, you agree to the use of your likeness in such material.


text:
Deadline for STEER, Inc. Barbecue Tickets
STEER, Inc. cordially invites you to attend their Annual Barbecue on Saturday, July 19th, at 5:00 PM. The Barbecue will be held at the First Evangelical Free Church, 205 43rd Avenue, Bismarck, North Dakota. The nationally acclaimed gospel group, The Isaacs, will provide special music this year. The Isaacs deliver the powerful message of the gospel through word and song that engage audiences of all ages.
Everyone is welcome to attend. A free-will offering will be received to cover the cost of the event and for the ministry of STEER, Inc. MEAL RESERVATIONS MUST BE MADE IN ADVANCE BY CALLING THE STEER OFFICE AT 701-258-4911 or Email: firstname.lastname@example.com BY Wednesday, JULY 16th. The meal tickets that you reserve will be available to pick up upon your arrival at the Barbecue on Saturday afternoon. If you don't reserve a meal ticket you can still come and enjoy the concert.


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text:
In-form Brighton striker Leonardo Ulloa has warned there will be no let-up if they want to reach the play-offs.
Ulloa scored his sixth goal in eight games to help Brighton to a 2-0 win over promotion rivals QPR on Tuesday night.
The Seagulls now head to Bolton on Saturday lying just two places and two points outside the play-off spots and with a game in hand on Reading in sixth.
"The QPR result was really important for us after we drew with Reading in our last game," said Ulloa.
"We want to make the play-offs, but what is important is that we play like we have played in recent games in our next game because Bolton are doing very well and we know it will be difficult to go there as well."


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The Cartoona expansion that lets you build two-headed creatures! Read more
The Cartoona expansion that lets you build two-headed creatures!
About this project
Heads On Tails is a three tile, three card expansion for the board game Cartoona, a creature-building, tile-laying game for 1 to 8 players, ages 3 to adult.
If you're not familiar with Cartoona check out the original Kickstarter video here:
The original Cartoona campaign was very successful and reached two of its stretch goals, but two stretch goals (both of which were Heads On Tails tiles and cards) were not reached. However, I have decided to go ahead and print the full Heads On Tails expansion along with the full game since the art and graphic design are complete. These tiles will be made of the same high-quality material as the tiles shipping in the full game.
This project is an opportunity for all who pledged to Cartoona to pick up the full Heads On Tails expansion, or if you missed the original campaign, you now have a second chance to get a copy of the full game.
This is not changing the timeline for Cartoona manufacturing or shipping dates in any way.
Here are the tiles you will receive with the Heads On Tails expansion, which will allow you build even crazier, two-headed creatures by placing them where a tail tile would go!
*Please note, you need a full copy of Cartoona to play the Heads On Tails expansion.
Tailhead #1 - Previous backers already get this one for FREE!
Tailhead #2
Tailhead #3
The three cards in the expansion will let you:
1. Use a tailhead tile as a front or back feet tile
2. Use a tailhead tile in place of a main head tile
3. Score +5 points for a creature with two heads
The Springboard Seal of Quality is your assurance that a new game project is worth your time and attention. All titles approved for Springboard campaigns are vetted by the game professionals at Game Salute. During this comprehensive evaluation process, Game Salute works with the publisher to ensure solid designs, thorough play testing, excellent presentation, and high quality components.
People love Cartoona! Just look at some of these kudos for the game!
"This is a fantastic family game, people are going to love putting the tiles together" -Tom Vasel, The Dice Tower
"Cartoona is an excellent game for families." -Wired .com
"My six year old was thrilled by the look and feel of the game. For the past two days we have left the game out on the table and she has spent time playing by herself building interesting creatures. During game play, she had us all laughing as she decided a new aspect was to discover and mimic the sounds her created creatures would make." -Purple Pawn
"Cartoona delivers quality and creativity with endless variety. Truly a wonderful game for the family. Do give Cartoona a try if and when you get the chance." -Father Geek
"[Cartoona] has a depth and level of direct aggression via the interactions between tiles and cards that may be overlooked by gamers who dismiss it for its whimsical appearance (their loss). I also appreciate the well-written rulebook, which provides well-written and illustrated examples in addition to multiple variants to scale the strategy level appropriately for children and adults. There's even a solitaire variant, which definitely gives the game bonus points in my eyes." -Games and Grub
Have a question? If the info above doesn't help, you can ask the project creator directly.
Pledge $2 or more
3 backers
DIY: Get a print and play copy of Cartoona. You'll get a digital copy of all the tiles, rulebook and cards. Suitable for printing at home. Get your strategy down before the retail version arrives! Since we are already funded you will receive your reward immediately after pledging. You can also add $2 to any pledge level if you want the print and play files.
Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $3 or more
0 backers
Nose: A 3"X5" clear vinyl sticker featuring two Cartoona creatures. Perfect for the back of your car to help spread some freaky Cartoona love! Please add $2 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.
Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $5 or more
113 backers
Ears: Did you already pledge for your copy of Cartoona?
THANK YOU! As an original backer, you are getting the first Heads On Tails expansion tile and card free! If you pledge $5 here, you'll also get the other two tiles and cards so that you have the FULL Heads On Tails expansion!
Please add $4 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $8 or more
8 backers
Front Body: Pledge $8 and you will receive your choice of the full Heads On Tails expansion (all three tiles and cards), OR an 8"X10" white vinyl sticker sheet featuring 6 individual Cartoona creatures, OR the Nose AND Ears level rewards.
Please add $5 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $28 or more
2 backers
Back Body: Did you miss out on the Cartoona Kickstarter? Do have an immense amount of guilt because you cancelled your pledge? Well, here's your chance for redemption! Get a full copy of Cartoona for just $28! Please add $15 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.
Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $35 or more
3 backers
Head: Get a full copy of Cartoona PLUS the Heads On Tails expansion! Please add $15 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.
Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $55 or more
2 backers Limited (89 left of 91)
Neck: Since we didn't sell out of the 200 available Long Necks expansions during the original Cartoona campaign you can get it here! Pledge $55 for the Long Necks expansion and a copy of Cartoona OR choose to receive the Long Necks expansion, The Heads On Tails expansion, a 3"X5" sticker and a small original drawing by the artist, personalized to whoever you wish! Please add $20 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.
Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $90 or more
1 backer
Wholesale Package: Get 5 copies of Cartoona for $90. Add $15 for each additional copy. Add $5 for each copy of the Heads on Tails expansion. International buyers can get Cartoona for $25 shipped with a minimum order of 5 games and can add any number of Heads On Tails expansions for $6 each.
Estimated delivery: -
Pledge $105 or more
0 backers
Tail: Get a copy of Cartoona, a copy of the Heads and Tails expansion and an original 8"X10" painting. Want a bigger painting? Just send me a message with your specs and I will let you know how much to pledge. Please add $20 for international shipping. Free shipping in the USA.
Estimated delivery:
Funding period
- (29 days)