text:
A reader wrote me stating that she had filed Chapter 7 bankruptcy because a bank was suing her for the amount of her home mortgage. This was not a deficiency action. The bank sued the reader for default under the promissory note without foreclosing on the mortgage. Without foreclosure, the owner would keep her house but the bank would have a judgment against her personally. She filed Chapter 7 to stop the lawsuit. Continue reading
Category Archives: Mortgage and Foreclosure
Defend Foreclosure Lawsuits Before Considering Bankruptcy
Many people file Chapter 13 bankruptcy to stop a foreclosure, and some people file Chapter 7 bankruptcy to discharge mortgage deficiency liability. I think many people are filing bankruptcy prematurely, and unnecessarily, to deal with foreclosure. Continue reading
Does Chapter 13 Bankruptcy Preclude Mortgagee Filing Unsecured Deficiency Claims?
A potential bankruptcy client wanted to avoid a deficiency judgment from a partially first mortgage on his home. The client's income made him ineligible to file Chapter 7 bankruptcy which would have discharged the deficiency liability in full. The client had heard that filing Chapter 13 bankruptcy could also eliminate the deficiency claim completely.
Continue reading
Chapter 7 Second Mortgage Stripping Is Alive and Well
Bankruptcy people have been getting nervous about debtors stripping second mortgages from their homestead properties in Chapter 7 bankruptcy.
Mortgage Lenders Paying Homeowners To Find Short-Sale Buyers
Are mortgage lenders finally "getting it?" Since the beginning of the housing crash so many homeowners have expressed to me their frustration trying to work with their mortgage company to arrange a reasonable short sale of their real estate. Continue reading
Mortgage Modification Is Money Loser For Service Company
Homeowners with upside down mortgages say that it is very difficult to get their lenders to modify their mortgages under the HAMP program. Continue reading
Foreclosure and Stay Relief Denied When Mortgage Lender Cannot Demonstrate Proper Assignment of Mortgage Instruments
As most know, during the years leading up to the real estate crisis mortgage lenders originated individual home loans and then assigned packages of these loans to investors who converted the packages to mortgage securities. Continue reading
Another Court Says Reaffirm Personal Liability On Mortgage Or Face Foreclosure
Another bankruptcy court decision on reaffirmation of mortgage loans in the case of an Orlando, Florida Chapter 7 bankruptcy debtor. Continue reading
Don't File Bankruptcy Just Because You Are Liable For Upside Down Mortgage
Over the past few years I have on several occasions listened to other debtor's trustee examinations during which the debtor stated that the reason they filed Chapter 7 bankruptcy because one or mortgages was upside down and they feared a deficiency judgment. Continue reading
Mortgage Modification And Bankruptcy: HAMP Directive Protects Bankruptcy Debtors
Many people forced to file bankruptcy against unsecured debts are also trying to save their primary residence from foreclosure by negotiating mortgage modification. Many of my clients and callers are very worried that a bankruptcy could mess up their mortgage modification effort. Not true. Continue reading


text:
The Darby Translation (DBY) | New International Version (NIV) |
1 The word that Jehovah spoke concerning Babylon, concerning the land of the Chaldeans, through Jeremiah the prophet. | 1 This is the word the LORD spoke through Jeremiah the prophet concerning Babylon and the land of the Babylonians: |
The Darby Translation is in the public domain. (The Darby Translation Bible Online) | Scripture quoted by permission. Quotations designated (NIV) are from THE HOLY BIBLE: NEW INTERNATIONAL VERSION®. NIV®. Copyright © 1973, 1978, 1984 by Biblica. All rights reserved worldwide. (New International Version Bible Online) |

subset: commoncrawl


text:
The love triangle that is Chrianna Coochie is just something no one can or ever will understand…but at this point why try.
Chris Brown, Rihanna and Karrueche Tran are all in Paris for various reasons. Karrueche is currently working on her clothing line "The Kill" which Chris has been wearing around Paris. Even though the two broke up and he has since been frolicking with Rihanna, he is still a huge supporter of Karrueche's fashion efforts. Check out the pics of Karrueche and Breezy representing "The Kill" in Paris.
Natles Nicole, everythingYNTK for VIBEVixen.com
Natles | Natles Nicole on facebook
Natles | @natnatles on twitter
Natles | ilovenatles on tumblr


text:
Breaking News: Michael Jackson slashed, shot, shelled, and finally disappears!
Defying Khamenei's demand that protesters stay at home, Michael Jackson, a student agitator for democracy in Iran was killed in Tehran today. He was found dead on the streets, his arms shredded by the razor-blades used by the Basij, and a gunshot wound to his back. This is an exclusive report on the matter, as the Iranian government has clamped down heavily on all forms of media and communication to the world at large.
In Mogadishu today, Michael Jackson, a young Somalian man died. His parents were killed by shell-fire last week, and he had sustained a shrapnel injury which without adequate medical treatment became septic. He died of blood poisoning. The killing is still ongoing, and the healthcare is still inadequate. His death, amongst hundreds of others will remain unreported.
In Peru last week more than 100 indigenous protesters went missing. They were fighting against proposed land-reforms that would see traditional ways of life and means of existence being torn apart. Amongst their number was a young man named Michael Jackson. Should his body ever be found, it is unlikely that it will ever be reported. Today it was announced that these protests may be seeing signs of success, with developers at least for the moment being forced to back down, but this will not last for long.
Michael Jackson was found not breathing and in cardiac arrest in his house in LA today. He didn't really stand for much in his life. He squandered a whole lot of cash living an obscenely decadent lifestyle, and cancelled more gigs than I've had hot dinners. Is there really nothing more important going on?
I've made this into a short video – feel free to pass it on!
This post, spoken with pictures


text:
OBU Hosts Fall Preview Day Oct. 13
October 4, 2007
High school students will have an opportunity to see and learn more about Oklahoma Baptist University at its fall Preview Day on October 13. From 1:30 -7 p.m., prospective students and their families can tour the campus, meet current students and faculty, and receive more information about OBU. Register Online For Preview Day! "We want the students to get the general information so they can make good decisions with good information," said Bruce Perkins, OBU director of admissions. Perkins said Preview Day will give high school sophomores, juniors and seniors the chance to explore OBU's different academic fields and get information on financial aid and the admission process. "The students can engage our faculty and academic personnel," he said. "The interaction between the faculty and students is one of the strengths of the university so we want to give prospective students a chance to experience that." For more information about OBU's Preview Day call 800-654-3285 or visit www.okbu.edu/preview.


text:
Clippings by meldy_nva |
Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name | |||
RE: exterior sheathing (Follow-Up #3)
posted by: worthy on 03.19.2009 at 11:21 am in Building a Home Forum Check comments on past thread.
I'm inclined to DOW SIS or XPS backed by OSB on my next personal home. ZIP is not available in my area. Interestingly, I am seeing in-fill custom builders here and there eschewing housewrap altogether and just using felt under brick. In a Fine Homes article in 2006, Paul Fisette, director of building materials and wood technology at the University of Massachusetts, says he would build his own home that way. As a small builder, I find carpenters (who apply the housewrap) have only a vague idea about proper application. And no matter what you tell them, you go off-site and they put it on like they've done in their last project--slap dash in bits and pieces and left flapping in the wind. Unless housewrap is a requirement of the architect/designer, I'll never use it again, except where it is Code required. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.20.2009 at 02:51 pm last updated on: 03.20.2009 at 02:51 pm
RE: No house wrap? HELP (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: suziesnowflake on 02.12.2009 at 09:02 am in Building a Home Forum Good grief. I try to stay away from this forum so I can close those chapters of my life but it keeps drawing me back from time to time. I lived a homebuilding nightmare, lawsuits, mold, rot, etc. that consumed my life for years.
Tell your builder to pull the windows and do the job right. A bunch of half baked solutions is not going to lead to a well built house. It rains in Ohio. You NEED a well done drainage plane - housewrap (or #30 felt) integrated with flashing at ALL exterior penetrations (windows, doors, hose bibs, electrical outlets, light fixtures, dryer vents, etc.) Here is some information to get you started: Fine Homebuilding - Rain Screen Wall Article - http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/siding-with-rain-screen-walls.aspx?ac=ts&ra=fp ASTM Standard for Door, Window and Skylight installation - http://www.astm.org/Standards/E2112.htm Grace website (flashing manufacturer with good information) - http://www.graceathome.com/ Homeowners Against Deficient Dwellings (what happens to innocent home buyers when builders don't know how to build a house) - http://www.hadd.com/ Read all of this stuff and decide for yourself if you want your builder to just slap up the siding without housewrap (and without flashing I assume). I knew this economy would hurt builders but I was hopeful that only the good would survive. Seems the sleaziest are finding a way to thrive too. Here is a link to one of the best resources out there (thank you SO much Rollie). Here is a link that might be useful: Rollie's website about Delores' House NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.12.2009 at 12:21 pm last updated on: 02.12.2009 at 12:21 pm
RE: Thermal Bridging (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: energy_rater_la on 01.21.2009 at 05:27 pm in Building a Home Forum the thermal bridging will be reduced if you use a 1" closed cell foam board to the exterior.
a lot of homes exterior walls are solid sheeted plywood corners with 1/2" closed cell foam board and the rest of the wall is 1" foam board. You can use a foil faced sheathing board and install furring strips for the hardi.The foil will reflect heat out of walls since you will have an air space created by the furring strips. if all seams are taped with the proper tape, windows and doors are properly flashed, and all penetrations are sealed plywood solid sheeting placed on interior of wall will give you the same strenght as exterior sheathing to the make sure that you are getting the full 5.5 of foam insulation in the walls. They should overfill the wall cavities and shave it back. where in south La are you building? NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 12:36 pm last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 12:36 pm
RE: Wheathershield or Andersen? (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: mightyanvil on 12.01.2008 at 01:32 pm in Building a Home Forum Assuming you are talking about double-hungs and the tilt-wash instead of the narrowline Andersen 200, neither of these windows is a true vinyl clad wood window.
The Andersen has a vinyl clad plywood frame with a wood sash painted with a tough polyurethane paint. The Weather Shield ProShield is a vinyl window with some interior wood trim. The appearance of both is poor especially the smaller upper glass size in the ProShield model and the glass stop in the Andersen. I don't believe either one offers an applied muntin/grille or a sill that can be waterproofed without adding a subsill (not that there are many clad window that do). I would be looking at all-wood windows or the Andersen fibrex or the Marvin fiberglass windows instead of these developer/builder grade hybrids. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.01.2008 at 02:44 pm last updated on: 12.01.2008 at 02:45 pm
RE: help understanding windows - what's the best? (Follow-Up #5)
posted by: lorraineal on 11.26.2008 at 12:15 am in Building a Home Forum You may want to look at thermally-broken aluminum windows. These are mostly on the scale of light to regular commercial grades and (unfortunately) their pricing reflects that. They have a gasket between the interior and exterior portions of the frames to insulate the two halves from heat-transfer. Other advantages are zero-maintenance and fire-resistance. We used Fleetwood, but you may wish to do some research and see what is available in your area.
Here is a link that might be useful: Fleetwood Windows NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 11.26.2008 at 07:37 am last updated on: 11.26.2008 at 07:39 am
RE: Liquid vs Sheet Applied Vapor Permeable Air Barrier Membrane (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: mightyanvil on 11.09.2008 at 11:51 am in Building a Home Forum These are the ones I am familiar with:
1. Perm-A-Barrier VP ® Air/Vapor Barrier fluid applied synthetic latex rubber membrane as manufactured by Grace Construction Products. 2. Air Bloc 31 as manufactured by Henry Company Inc., Cold Stream Road, Kimberton, PA 19442. 3. Sto Guard Assembly: manufactured by Sto Corp., Camp Creek Pkwy, Atlanta, GA 30331 4. PROSOCO R-GUARD Assembly: provided by PROSOCO, Inc., 3741 Greenway Circle, Lawrence, Kansas 66046. I have used the WR Grace product on CMU back up in a brick cavity wall for a college dormitory but I like the STO system for residential construction because it can be applied by anyone with a roller.These products will someday be the only weather/air barriers used in houses when the manufacturers finally decide to actively market them for that use. Sorry, I don't have any cost data at the moment. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 11.10.2008 at 01:23 pm last updated on: 11.10.2008 at 01:23 pm
RE: Mechanical Rooms, Anyone? (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: terry_t on 10.22.2008 at 11:55 pm in Building a Home Forum Wait long enough and you may be required to install a sprinkler system (thanks to latest IRC code -- see link in thread started by carova_2008 on Sun, Oct 12, 08 at 13:39).
I used 5/8"-X sheetrock and a mix of 3/4" plywood (not OSB) and unistrut for mounting my radiant heating control board and pipe supports on the walls. Unistrut is usually seen only in commercial construction but is just as useful for residential projects. Running the sheetrock vertically improves fire performance by putting seams along studs (I learned of this after I installed my sheetrock horiz). Finally, use rockwool insulation in the ceiling and wall cavities. I have been involved with fire-rated assemblies in commercial construction and this is the simplest way to go. Unfortunately, I may never be able to adequately close in my ceiling. I used wood I-joists and had to run a lot of my piping below the joists to avoid too many holes in the joists. I would use 2x4 open web truss joists if I had it to do over again. They cost a little more than I-joists but you save much more by removing the labor of drilling holes for electrical, plumbing, HVAC, etc. I also had a P.E. tell me he thought the web trusses held up better in a fire. Lastly, use fire-rated doors for all entries/exits. Fire ratings can be complicated -- keep it simple. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 10.23.2008 at 06:58 am last updated on: 10.23.2008 at 06:58 am
RE: best energy saving building techniques (Follow-Up #23)
posted by: divadeva on 10.18.2008 at 07:53 pm in Building a Home Forum We have climate swings from 105 to -20...in a wildfire zone.
We're using areated autoclaved concrete blocks (AAC), finished with concrete stucco (gigacrete) straight to the block, no interior drywall or exterior screening needed. Then, a metal unvented roof (code required) which is insulated with foam sheeting, the room side is cedar tongue n groove. The build cost is the same as framing if you can get the transportation cost on the block down by arranging a rail car delivery (far in advance). Building code treats this like regular concrete block, R-value is high. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 10.21.2008 at 07:48 am last updated on: 10.21.2008 at 07:49 am
Lemieux exterior doors (pics) (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: alliern on 10.09.2008 at 11:19 am in Building a Home Forum I recently purchased two Lemieux exterior doors for our new house for the same reason that you stated above...solid mahogany for a great price. The doors are installed and I LOVE them! I had no problem ordering them or having them delivered.
I too was hesitant because the price was so good but, was told by two different door suppliers that although they don't often have customers that order them (probably becasue they aren't widely known in the states) they have never had a problem with them and their customers seem to be very pleased with the quality. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 10.10.2008 at 01:26 pm last updated on: 10.10.2008 at 01:27 pm
RE: Wolf or Dacor Range? HEELLLP! (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: cdecker1 on 10.09.2008 at 07:20 pm in Building a Home Forum I spent months and months studying and attending cooking demos on all the high end appliances. After all these and asking lots of people who really do cook/bake. I narrowed down to three (Thermador, Wolf and Miele.) The Wolf was my favorite but I have degenerative disc disease and their range doors and racks were the heaviest and hardest to open and close. I also was not fond on the blue interior. But they are fabulous quality and everyone who had one was so very pleased with them! I do bake and roast often and that bending down and heavy opening would get to me. That left me with the options of a double oven in wall at a good height with easier doors and a pro range top. After attending many demos (in So. Calif. we have several high end stores that have them on weekends) I watched and cooked with Thermador, Miele, Dacor, Viking. In my honest opinion,
the Dacor was the worst and had the most problems. (I have a close friend who has had hers (range) repaired and replaced in lasst 3 years and is still having problems with new one! Thermador had the best Pro style range burners. The star burners go from Wok cooking (15,000 or 18,000 btu's to super slow simmer where you can melt chocolate on a paper plate on the burner and it melts without scorching paper! I also liked that you could pick your burner arrangement ( 6 burners, titanium griddle (lifts out and goes in dishwasher) some have to be hand-scrubbed on the range or you can have a grill or more burners! The viking was nice too but did not have all the functions of the thermador. I purchased the Thermador 6 burner stainless Pro style range top with titanium griddle and I absolutely love it! I purchased the Miele Master Chef double ovens with convection. I love them too! I bake almost daily and I can't believe how awesome everything turns out. I even use the proofing feature to proof bread and make my own yogurt! They clean so well too! and are easy to open and close (much lighter than the Wolf ones) but very sturdy. I can bake 6 trays of cookies (large sheets) at one time! I have had them over a year now and am even more pleased than ever! Everyone has different cooking styles and every family has unique needs. I cook for almost 30 people at holidays and birthday (just immediate family!) and I find my 6 burner and griddle and 3 ovens. I also have a KA ultima speed cook/micro/convection is a great combo for large parties. I also recommend a pot filler! I use mine several times a day and just love it! Happy kitchen shopping! I spent a year and a half studying and visiting cooking showrooms before I designed my kitchen, so, I would be happy to try to help in any way! Christine
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 10.10.2008 at 07:19 am last updated on: 10.10.2008 at 07:19 am
RE: Charity Work Needed - Help Dizzy Blonde Bid (Follow-Up #4)
posted by: mightyanvil on 09.23.2008 at 08:10 am in Building a Home Forum The design drawings will show the physical layout, dimensions, and materials to be used in the project in scaled plans, sections, elevations and details. They should also contain structural framing plans & details, window & door schedules, a finish schedule, and a schedule of any equipment or materials the owner will supply for the contractor to install. More detailed information (kind of sheathing, concrete strength, fixtures, hardware, finish materials, etc.) would be listed in the Specifications which can be written on the drawings or in a separate document.
When elements of the design are not known at the time of bidding, they are sometimes included as an Allowance. This is just a price that you set for that element so that it can be included in the contract price and all bidders can use the same value for it. Later when the element is specified, the contract price is adjusted up or down by Change Order. If you use this method it is wise to set the quantity if possible and only use the allowance for the materials, not labor. Be sure to include a clause in the contract allowing you to choose the supplier of any allowance and for you to opt to supply the element and get a full credit from the contract price. Also negotiate the contractor's mark-up for increases in allowance amounts. Removable appliances are usually bought by the owner and installed by the contractor in order to avoid unnecessary mark-ups. Since the contract documentation will usually include more than printed drawings, it is best to refer to them as the "design documents" or "contract documents" rather than "blueprints", the long obsolete term for drawings reproduced with the white on blue "cyanotype" process. Bid drawings, written specifications, and other instructions will all become part of the contract and should be carefully prepared and described in the contract in order to avoid misunderstandings and disputes later. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.23.2008 at 01:44 pm last updated on: 09.23.2008 at 01:44 pm
RE: Macadamia Nichiha Shake Photos (Follow-Up #20)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.27.2008 at 10:34 am in Building a Home Forum It's a beautiful house but I feel I should once again warn everyone about the use of "picture frame" trim below the window sills even though it is too late to do much about it.
A properly detailed window sill should extend over the siding and form a drip. Modern clad windows often omit this detail in order to make it easier to fabricate and ship their windows. That means it is necessary to add a "sub sill" below the window to form this drip feature. When a flat trim board is installed below the window, water that runs over the sill will attempt to enter the cladding at the caulked joint. When this joint eventually fails (if it was caulked properly in the first place) water will be drawn into the wall system by capillary action. The only way to avoid the problem without adding a sub sill is to bring the bottom of the sill flashing out between the first and second courses of shingles so only one course is exposed to potential water damage. My first experience with this problem was 30 years ago at the large Spinnaker Island condominium development in Hull, MA. Andersen, the architect, and the builder kept blaming the water leaks below the window sills on each other. Removal of the trim and siding proved that the sealant joint between the sill and the picture frame trim had been installed tight without a foam backer rod and had begun to fail within weeks of installation. I would not rely even on properly installed sealant to waterproof any horizontal joint. It should be considered nothing more than a cosmetic joint filler. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.12.2008 at 03:28 pm last updated on: 09.12.2008 at 03:28 pm
RE: Structural Garage Floors (Follow-Up #4)
posted by: klabio on 01.21.2008 at 10:02 pm in Building a Home Forum John, I am in the midst of a project just as you describe. Mightyanvil described two options. A third is a product called "Lite Deck" which is similiar to ICF. The forms are foam and have to have to be braced for 21 days while the concrete topper cures. It was estimated at $20 per sqft by company out of Ohio.
I went the prestressed plank route. I didn't want to pay the litedeck price and I didn't want to deal with steel and posts in the basement. With concrete planks I could span the 24 ft depth of the garage. The planks themselves cost $10 per sq ft with tax and trucking. To that you have to add the extra cost of additional foundation work and the floor slab below as well as crane time to set them. The plans then have to be topped with 2 inches of concrete minumum. I haven't gotten that far yet. My walls needed to be 8 inch ICF to bear all the weight of the floor and the gargage loads. The planks are 6000 pounds each. This was a non-trivial decision but made lot of sense in my case due to my site grade. You mention three lower level garage doors. The one garage door I put in was the biggest issue for my floor system. There is a great deal of weight which needs to be carried across that header. We ended up with six #7 rebars and had to keep the door height to seven feet to allow two feet of concrete over the opening. When we frame the garage we are going to header over that opening in the wall above so that the roof loads are carried on the solid foundation and not that opening. A structural engineer is definitely a requirement. You may also run into a some issues trying to deal with the prestressed concrete folks. Some don't respond to residential inquiries. I found my supplier via the Prestressed Concrete Institute website (www.pci.org). I used Nitterhouse Concrete Products in PA and they were an absolute joy to work with. There were closer companies but most didn't want to bother with my little 24x40 ft job. Here are some pictures of the job: This one shows the planks from the side. There is one more course of ICF blocks that went on after the planks were set. It forms the curb and locks the planks to the walls. You can also see long rebar rods stick up from the wall. Those get bent into the joint between the planks and get grouted in to tie the floors to the walls. Here is an interior shot. Looks like a parking garage: I was planning on writing this up once I finished the entire garage as I hadn't seen anyone on Gardenweb discussing this before. At this point I'm in a weather hold waiting for a good chance to pour more concrete. Hopefully that will happen before my carpenter becomes available. Klabio NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 08:45 am last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 08:45 am
RE: Structural Garage Floors (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: mightyanvil on 01.21.2008 at 08:59 pm in Building a Home Forum Such a slab is called a "structural slab" instead of a "slab-on-grade".
The poured concrete on metal decking is called a composite system because steel studs are electrically welded to the top of the steel beams through the ribbed metal decking. When the concrete is poured it acts in a composite manner making the beams stronger. The ribbing of the metal decking allows the least amount of concrete to be used and it has deformations along the ribs to help the two materials act together structurally. There is no more efficient or lighter weight system possible that meets the code requirement for a concrete floor in a garage. The metal decking usually doesn't span much more than about 10 feet so there would need to be at least one intermediate beam under a 2-car garage floor. However, that steel beam could be designed to be deep enough to span the entire garage width but at considerable additional cost. The kind of pre-cast concrete planks that are extruded with round cores running lengthwise will also span across a similar steel frame but they have to be about twice as thick and add quite a bit to the weight of the structure. I can't think of a benefit to this option except perhaps achieving a fire-resistance rating without having to spray fire-protection on the bottom of the deck but the composite concrete and metal deck garage floors I have designed were thick enough to achieve the required rating without spray-on protection. Columns and beams are usually required to have two layers of fire-resistance rated gypsum board. Precast concrete that can span the entire garage would have a single or double T shape and take up a lot of headroom below.
Some jurisdictions restrict the use of a space below a garage because of the potential for combustibles collecting in a lower enclosed space. For code compliance it would be a good idea to involve an architect unless the builder or engineer have already worked these issues out with the local building officials. I would not consider the space created to be cheap. It would cost considerably more than $10/s.f. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 08:44 am last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 08:44 am
furthermore (Follow-Up #10)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.16.2008 at 07:50 am in Building a Home Forum Manufacturers like STO offer a higher grade EIFS system for commercial projects that is rarely used for homes perhaps because home builders don't look far beyond conventional systems.
STO makes a liquid-applied vapor permeable weather/air barrier that is applied to the sheathing. It covers joints and wraps into openings which are reinforced with mesh tape. It's called GoldCoat and can be applied by sprayer or roller by anyone. Huber makes a similar system but the sheathing is coated in the factory and the joints are sealed with tape in the field. WR Grace makes a fluid-applied permeable air barrier called I would use one of these systems with StuccoWrap for any form of stucco. Here is a link that might be useful: GoldCoat NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.18.2008 at 12:51 pm last updated on: 08.18.2008 at 12:51 pm
RE: stucco - I need some help (Follow-Up #8)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.16.2008 at 07:25 am in Building a Home Forum In a real cement-based stucco system, the underlaymnet/weather barrier/air barrier that is placed over the sheathing should be a double layer so it can work properly as a drainage plane.
DuPont's StuccoWrap (wrinkled Tyvek) or DrainWrap (same product marketed for siding) with a cheap micro-perforated housewrap over it or two layers of building paper/felt should work fine. Stucco did not stick to the old building felt made with cotton rag and high grade asphalt and because it wrinkled during installation it provided a drainage plane. Unfortunately, the stucco will stick to any modern single layer. There have a lot of problems (especially in the Northwest) with single layer underlayments combined with poor window flashing and lack of kick-out flashing. (Contractors willing to use one layer of underlayment often also omit other waterproofing as well) A double layer of underlayment is now required by many states or local communities. Here is a link that might be useful: stucco problems NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.18.2008 at 12:49 pm last updated on: 08.18.2008 at 12:50 pm
RE: Huber Zip system vs Normal Sheathing/Tyvek (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.13.2008 at 03:54 pm in Building a Home Forum Vapor permeable acrylic coatings are the future of weather/air barriers because there is no space for moisture to collect like there is with a plastic wrap. The disadvantage of this system is the joints. I wold ask Huber if there is a primer for the tape.
If you like this idea the ultimate version of it is a liquid applied system like STO GoldCoat because it wraps into the openings and covers the reinforcing mesh at the sheathing joints and it has been used for a much longer time. Unfortunately few home builders are familiar with it unless they also do commercial work. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.18.2008 at 10:46 am last updated on: 08.18.2008 at 10:46 am
RE: Review of plans and finishese (Follow-Up #18)
posted by: sniffdog on 08.14.2008 at 05:02 pm in Building a Home Forum bren
sorry I am late to the party here - i just stumbled onto this thread. I live in N VA and just finished a custom build - starting with a set of on-line plans. Here are a few things i learned: 1) The local code can be very different that the code where the architect who drew those plans is located. In my case, the architect was well known in Texas - but if I tried to build to that exact plan I would have had problems. The live and dead loads are very different in regions where you get snow - just as one example. In Texas they don't normally do basements - we wanted one. That drove a lot of structural changes. Not very high in cost - but something that had to be done. Unless you are lucky enough to be in the same area where that the on-line plan was made for - you will need someone to make the mods. The cost for this should not be excessive if the mods are minor. 2) Before you purchase the plans, make sure you speak with the designer first. Most of these on-line sites are just store fronts. You should find out if the person who drew them is a licensed architect (and who it is - then you can search about them for them on-line). Also find out what plans are included in the set - is it just a floor plan or does it have roofing, framing, foundation, elevations, electrical, plans etc.). You want detailed plans - and ones that have been used before in a real build (they should have pictures they can show you). You can also typically buy a review set of these plans for a smaller fee which will be applied to the total cost when you purchase the final plans. I recommend getting those first. 3) Even though a plan may look great and have all the detail, you can't assume that you can build the house within some cost per square foot or other ball park estimate. One of the biggest mods our architect made to our plan was the roof. Our builder studied the roof design and told us that it would significantly drive up the cost of the home. We were changing the outside elevation anyway, so re-doing the roofline and pitch was fine with us. When the architect re-designed the roof, he actually gave us more square footage on the second floor so that we could add another bathroom - a nice bonus. 3) I would not assume that you can't afford an architect or architecture services . And I also don't think it has to cost 10% of the house. We made a lot of changes to our plan and it cost $15K, around 2% of the total cost. It was worth every penny. 4) When you start looking for an architect don't get discouraged. I ran into a lot of pompous pre-Madonna's who tried to feed me a load of crap on what I needed to do to the plan and it was going to cost me out the wazoo. Be prepared when you deal with this species . But if you look hard enough, you can find what you need. 5) We found are architect through our builder - someone who he has worked with extensively. If you use a custom builder, you might want to see if they can provide the design services you need. In the end it helps you both because you know that the plan is done to code. Good luck! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.15.2008 at 09:28 am last updated on: 08.15.2008 at 09:28 am
RE: Solar Thermal (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: greif on 07.24.2008 at 11:12 pm in Renewable Energy Forum not from NY but I have Heliodyne brand flat collectors and am very happy with them, they are know as the cadilac of solar collectors. Some people say the evacuated tubes are better but Home Power magazine a few moths ago they tested many makes and models of collectors and the data said flat panels are a little better and usually cheaper.
Go to your library and check out lots of old copies of home power also to to builditsolar.com as Gary has put toether a great site with lots of info gary Here is a link that might be useful: build it solar NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.14.2008 at 11:14 am last updated on: 08.14.2008 at 11:14 am
also (Follow-Up #7)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.13.2008 at 04:57 pm in Building a Home Forum If it is the moisture resistant gypsum wall board made for use in interior damp areas and sometimes called "greenboard", it is not acceptable for use on the exterior of a building by any recognized standard.
If you wish to use a gypsum sheathing product many manufacturers make a board specifically designed for use as exterior sheathing. When it has a paper face it is usually dark gray/brown. It is supposed to be water resistant but if you put a sample of it in a bucket of water it will turn to mush so the edges must be very well protected from moisture. All gaps should be sealed before any underlayment or housewrap is installed. A far better material is DensGlass Gold by Georgia-Pacific which has a yellow fiberglass mat instead of a paper face. Who was responsible for designing the exterior wall system? NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.14.2008 at 07:54 am last updated on: 08.14.2008 at 07:54 am
RE: Are these windows mulled, individaully installed, custom orde (Follow-Up #7)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.09.2008 at 12:10 pm in Building a Home Forum The short answer is to trim them in the field.
But it depends on the window you want and how authentic you want to emulate the traditional/historic windows shown in most of your examples. Typical clad windows that are shipped without trim (nail-fin windows) aren't really "mulled" in the old fashioned way; they are attached either tight together or 1 1/2" apart (for a single stud) and a plastic or metal cap is installed to cover the joint. Unfortunately, the cap doesn't make the joint look like a traditional ganged window assembly. Traditional double-hung windows had weight pockets that forced them to be farther apart than modern windows even when there was no structure between the windows. Even before sash pockets, windows in masonry structures had stucture between them and even Palladio's windows usually had columns between the main window and the flanking windows. You don't need to copy the original design perfectly but when something has become so much a part of architecture for so many centuries you should deviate from it with care and respect. Otherwise, you should design something more original. To make it look authentic you can either order clad nail-fin windows separately and trim them in the field or you can order wood framed windows (with optional metal clad sash) with any authentic mulled spacing you like and the full trim will be installed in the factory. (Marvin is good at this). For the clad windows it is important to add a sill nosing (usually PVC-see the ATW link) because so few window manufacturers provide a sill that projects or slopes or is deep enough to look right (or keep water out of the siding below). Adding a sub sill also provides the "sill horns" that extend under the jamb trim in a traditional window. Some aluminum clad window manufacturers will apply an aluminum trim with the appropriate width between windows at the facotry but they are very expensive. Here is a link that might be useful: ATW trim NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.11.2008 at 07:57 am last updated on: 08.12.2008 at 09:16 am
RE: design software (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: frog_hopper on 07.30.2008 at 10:26 am in Building a Home Forum Home design software should meet several criteria if is going to be useful without providing a hair pulling experience. Besides giving the user the ability to draw two dimensional room layouts, it should provide 3D visualization. Architects are trained to visualize inhabitable space from flat two dimensional drawings. Most of the rest of us have a hard time doing that. For us, the software provides that functionality.
Quality consumer home design software is descended from professional architectural design software. Architects and other design professionals pay thousands of dollars for these programs that provide CAD with 3D visualization. Some of the manufacturers of these programs offer stripped down versions for consumers. Generally speaking, these consumer versions are every bit as accurate as the professional versions, but lack some or many of the features of their big brothers. They tend to be well documented, because the professionals demand it. It is easy and relatively inexpensive to edit existing documentation versus writing it from scratch. The word professional needs to be put in context here. It is a marketing term, and it often abused. Just because a piece of software is labled professional doesn't make it so. However it does usually make it more expensive. :-) Other manufacturers of consumer home design software offer a product that has no roots in professional architectural softare, and it usually shows. In my opinion, these products tend to be cobbled together 3D visualization programs without any real CAD underlayment. As a result they suffer in both accuracy and ease of use. They also tend to be particularly lacking in documentation. The marketing of both types of consumer home design software is shameless. The manufacturers put out multiple versions of what is essentially the same thing with confusing claims as to what can be done with the product. Each version is hobbled in some way in comparison to those versions that cost more. The consumer doesn't find out exactly how the program was crippled until he or she discovers what it won't do, not what it will do. The best bet is to select a product from one of the companies that make genuine architectural design software. There are at least two of them, perhaps more. Buy the most expensive version you can afford. It will be worth it in the long run. I have listed some of the things I feel are very important for the home user. There are a lot of other features that are nice to have but not essential. 1. It should connect walls automatically. Software that doesn't have this feature tends to be very tedious to use. It will take much longer to produce a drawing, if the user has to postion each and every wall manually. 2. It is essential that it provide accurate dimensions from the correct structural components. It is no good to just say two walls are 12 feet apart. It is necessary to define how the measurements are taken. Are they taken from the outside of the framing, the inside of the framing, the outside of the siding, the interior drywall surface, etc? Good software will let you select and set how dimensions are taken. It will also be obvious to someone viewing the floorplan. 3. It should provide you with the ability to define your own walls. A wall definition describes how many layers the wall has, how thick each individual layer is, and what they are made of. It should handle multiple wall definitions. If you can't properly define wall layers, you will lose accuracy. It is insufficient to simply say a wall is six inches thick or four inches thick, etc. 4. It should handle curved walls. They are not that uncommon. 5. It should build staircases automatically. It should not have fixed staircase dimensions. You should be able to set the rise, run, angle, and width yourself. It should handle multiple landings. It should handle curved staircases. 6. You should be able to position and change existing walls without deleting and redrawing them. You should be able to move walls by specifying their length or relative postion to another wall or any object. If you can't do this, the software will be extremely tedious to use. 7. You should be able to break a wall with a click of the mouse and have separate definitions for differing parts of the wall. This requirement may seem exotic, but its not. For example, this is exactly what is needed to properly draw a wall that starts as an exterior wall, then continues across the back of the garage, where it becomes a fire wall by law. 8. You should be able to join walls of differing thicknesses, end to end, if necessary. 10. There should be a user definable grid that can be turned on or off. There should be a user selectable feature to snap objects to the grid. 11. It should be able to handle all types of foundations. It should not restrict you to predefined slabs, crawl spaces, and basements. You should be able to mix foundation types on the same plan. 12. You should be able to set the floor height of each room independently. There should be a means to have a change in floor height within a room. 13. Floor heights should be set relative to the ground. You should be able to set floor heights to negative values. 14. It should handle multiple unconnected structures in the same plan. 15. You should be able to set the ceiling height of each room individually. It should handle coffered ceilings. It should handles soffits and firdowns. 16. You should be able to select moldings. You should not be confined to a particular style. 17. Roofs are one of the most difficult things to draw. It should automatically generate the roof. All parts of the roof should be manually editable. You should be able to draw a roof manually. It should handle all roof types, not just gable or hip. It should handle mixed roof types, even if they must be manually drawn. 18. There should be specific provisions to draw and edit dormers. 19. It should be capable of handling attic living spaces or story and a half designs. 20. There should be a generous library of windows and doors. These should be of all common types, and they should all be editable for size and position in all directions. It should also be possible to have door frames without doors, and framed openings without casings. 21. The program should be able to display how the sun's rays will strike the house on any given date and time. This is essential to determine how light will affect the interior of the home. To do this, the program must have provisions for inputing the exact latitude and longitude of the home site and the orientation of the structure on the property. This functionality is lacking in many programs. 22. There should be a generous library of kitchen cabinets. These should be editable in industry standard increments in all dimensions. 23. There should be a generous library of furnishings and fixtures. It is essential that furnishings be editable for size, so that you may position furniture symbols in your floor plans that are sized to match your own furniture. 24. There should be multiple 3D views that can be turned and tilted. There should be an overview. There should be a dollhouse view, which allows you to look inside the house without the roof or the floor above in the way. This single feature will provide more insight into how well your design will work than any other. 25. You should be able to take sectional views of the house. 26. The program should support multiple layers. This allows you to control what is printed and what is not. Layers can also be used in difficult editing situations. 27. The program's default setting should be changeable. Virtually every default should be under the user's control. It is essential that the defaults be stored in the drawing's file. 28. There should be complete and thorough documentation. There absolutely should be a tutorial. The lack of a tutorial is a red flag. Any program that meets all of the above will have many more features, including multiple material selections, import capabilities etc. It certainly will not be the least expensive in any given product line up, but it will be a lot more capable and a lot less frustrating than most. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.04.2008 at 02:03 pm last updated on: 08.04.2008 at 02:03 pm
RE: Final Walkthrough Checklist Help... (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: sniffdog on 11.27.2007 at 12:31 pm in Building a Home Forum We are (hopefully) going to be doing this in a few weeks, here is a preliminary list :
- open and closer every window - make sure they move freely and seal DW will probably: - check around every piece of molding looking for cracks That's the list I came up with in 5 minutes drafting this post. There will be others added, I am sure. Our walk through will probably take a FULL day. Don't laugh - we made the mistake of glossing over things in the last house we bought (not a custom house) - and that was a big mistake. This time we are bringing food and water, our cameras with plenty of batteries, and a very long sheet of paper to document everything. The builder is going to hate us when we are done. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.04.2008 at 01:59 pm last updated on: 08.04.2008 at 01:59 pm
RE: Foam Insulation Yes or No? (Follow-Up #9)
posted by: mightyanvil on 08.02.2008 at 09:45 am in Building a Home Forum It is difficult to give a yes or no without knowing what kind of foam and to what other kind of insulation you are comparing it, in what climate, what kind of wall assembly and for what budget. Sure, foam is great...in the right climate and wall assembly but it is always more expensive than the alternatives. Don't try to design your building envelope one piece at a time. Think about it as a total system in a specific environment.
Unfortunately, the last place you will get unbiased information is from an insulation contractor. The aged R-value of 3 1/2 inches of closed cell polyurethane foam is 21. That's quite a bit more than the alternatives but the cost is quite a bit more. You would need to be in an extreme climate to be sure you could pay that investment off in a reasonable time period. If you live in a more moderate climate you would need to do the ROI calculation. Most believe the most cost effective way to get to the R-20 range is with fiberglass or cellulose in a 2x6 wall. The closed cell foam can also form a vapor barrier and that might not be compatible with your wall system. I have only used the open-cell foam, not for R-value but to avoid venting a roof. In general, dense pack cellulose seems to be the favorite right now. In a very cold climate a layer of foam insulation board is placed over the sheathing to reduce heat loss through the studs (This is the weak point in foamed 2x4 stud walls) Unfortunately, there is little reliable information on the internet about fiberglass and cellulose insulation; it all comes from poorly disguised industry organizations and it is often exaggerated. Start with the wall construction/vapor management system appropriate for your climate, consider your budget, and then think about types of insulation. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.04.2008 at 07:43 am last updated on: 08.04.2008 at 07:43 am
RE: Final Walkthrough Checklist Help... (Follow-Up #4)
posted by: breezy_2 on 11.27.2007 at 09:50 pm in Building a Home Forum kats...sooo true.
A GC that will finish their work willingly is a contradiction in terms. As to punch lists? Here are a few to consider after the punchlist from... 1) If there are gas appliances, turn them all off including pilots but make sure the gas valves to the appliances are on. Go to the meter and look at the 1/2 or 1/4 pound gauge for 5-10 minutes. If it does not move, there are no gas leaks. How do I know about this trick? When we tried to turn on our hot water heaters (in my opinion, GC did not do it b/c he did not want to pay for the gas usage probably), they had major gas leaks between the valves and the hot water heaters. 2) Turn on all HVAC and make sure they are operating and heating and cooling (actually measure the temp from the vents to be sure)... guess again! Gauges are not necessary, just use the back of the hand, if the air coming from the vent is warmer than room temp, heat is working, if cooler, AC is working. 3) Operate ALL plumbing fixtures to be sure they work, there are no knocks when turning valves on and off and the fixtures are consistent in operation (valves/sink stoppers open the same, etc). Make sure toilets flush and STOP running. 4) All electrical fixtures/outlets operate as expected including all 2/3/4 way switches. 5) make sure any all venting requirement of gas appliances meet manufacturer's specs (not just code). If it does not meet manufacturer's spec, all bets are off. (YEP! guess again) 6) check any special additions to make sure they are consistent with spec's. 7)Inspect all sheetrock seems closely. Look for cracks in butt joints, bed joints and corners. 8) Look closely for nail pops in sheetrock especially in the ceilings where the ceilings meet the walls. 9) Confirm all combustibles are removed from the access/service panels/areas of gas log fireplaces. (Yes..guess again) 10) Make sure gas and electrical service are adequate for your house. 11) Make sure vent hood is actually hooked up and venting to the outside. 12) Make sure GC confirms all gas valves meet code (guess again). They MUSt be accessible without moving the appliance or they will turn off your gas. 13) Check for any leaks if you can get it to rain. It did here finally and we discovered more leaks. 14) make sure all appliances work (includng hot water heaters). 15) Everything in the previous posts (all good points). 16) Try to hold at least 5% on GC for 90 days to be safe. I trusted our GC and he pretty much wrote us off within 2 weeks of paying him in full after a 16 month $1MM project. We have experienced many of the items listed above after payoff! 17) If I think of more, I will let you know. GOOD LUCK! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.31.2008 at 01:53 pm last updated on: 07.31.2008 at 01:53 pm
RE: Whats the dif between cedar & fir and is this country french? (Follow-Up #10)
posted by: sierraeast on 07.31.2008 at 12:25 am in Building a Home Forum Most cracks occur at openings at the upper corners and around corners due to settling as well as the openings being a weak spot in the structure with flexing. Another cause of cracking is not allowing the scratch/brown coats to set and cure for a minimum 30 days before the top coat is applied. During this 30 day period, the scratch coat/brown coat will crack which is normal up to a point where the cracking generally ceases. By waiting for this before applying the top coat, the cracking wont follow through the top coat. Hairline cracking is typical and should be expected on traditional 3-coat stucco, but the cracking is barely visible, you really have to look hard to spot it. Anything more should be addressed. Ask stucco contractors in your area if they are familiar with the acrylic top coat. Traditional top coating has been around for a long time with success, the acrylic is an improvement that lessens cracking because it remains flexible with teperature changes and during settling, around openings,etc. It's almost like having a rubber membrane on your walls topically. Re-inforcement around the opening corners during the lath install wih pieces of rib lath lessen the chance of cracks in those areas.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.31.2008 at 07:46 am last updated on: 07.31.2008 at 07:46 am
RE: Whats the dif between cedar & fir and is this country french? (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: sierraeast on 07.30.2008 at 12:01 pm in Building a Home Forum Traditional cementious based scratch coat/brown coat/acrylic top coat, (three coat system), will hold up better than the traditional three coat system that uses a standard top coat. A reliable stucco job is highly dependent on the mix and application, but most important is the lath under it. The use and proper install of a double ply underlayment as well as proper flashing techniques/drainage plane is what makes a succesful moisture free wall cavaty.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.31.2008 at 07:44 am last updated on: 07.31.2008 at 07:44 am
RE: HurriQuake nails? (Follow-Up #9)
posted by: chiroptera_mama on 07.22.2008 at 10:36 am in Building a Home Forum Breezy,
No one said the bolts and ties were not important. These nails are not a replacement, they are an addition. For the very small difference in price between these and regular sheathing nails, they are well worth it. The man who developed them did walk through many direct hits and he knew the destruction could have been mitigated if not prevented. They are NOT the same as ring shank nails. Read the specs and the reviews. Living where we do in both a regular hurricane zone and a more rare, but not unheard of earthquake zone, the use of the Hurriquake nails in addition to other precautions was a no brainer. "Tests conducted by researchers at Florida International University and the International Code Council—the independent building-safety standards organization—confirmed that the HurriQuake has more than twice the "uplift capacity" of standard power-driven nails. Other independent tests showed that the HurriQuake can double a typical home's resistance to high winds and add up to 50 percent more resistance to earthquakes." http://www.popsci.com/popsci/flat/bown/2006/innovator_5.html It's a great article, I recommend reading the whole thing. Here is a summary of what makes them different from the first link. "Most wood frame construction fails at the fastening point, which is why a superior nail design is so critical to structural integrity. Two independent laboratory tests concluded that HurriQuake™ withstands uplift forces of over 271 pounds/square foot (depending on nail pattern and shank diameter). In essence, this offers up to twice the resistance to high wind conditions, also referred to as uplift capacity, when compared to standard sheathing nails. Unlike other sheathing nails, HurriQuake™ has its own exclusive code report (ESR-2020). Because of its performance characteristics, the HurriQuake™ nail exceeds Miami-Dade county code, which is arguably one of the strictest construction codes in the country. As a result, the head of the nail is marked with either an "HQ1" or "HQ2" for easy identification during inspections. Another enhancement includes a stiffer plastic collation formula that breaks away more effectively as the nail is driven. This reduces "flagging" (the collection of collation material under the nail head) for a cleaner, flush application of the next layer. This helps prevent the squeaky floors that often result from flagging and under-driven nails. HurriQuake™ touts high-quality carbon steel alloy construction to meet code requirements and exceed a bend yield of 100,000 psi. "The value proposition of this next generation nail is quite compelling." said Dr. Sutt, "The additional cost to use HurriQuake™ nails on an average 2,000 square foot home is less than fifteen dollars. This is a small investment when you consider the fact that it may save thousands of dollars in the long run." Here is a link that might be useful: Nail info NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 01:28 pm last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 01:28 pm
HurriQuake nails?
posted by: vancleaveterry on 07.18.2008 at 12:48 pm in Building a Home Forum Has anyone used these HurriQuake nails? Do they require a special nail gun?
"The HurriQuake nail is a construction nail designed by Ed Sutt for Stanley-Bostitch, a division of Stanley Works, and patented in 2004. The features of the nail are designed primarily to provide more structural integrity for a building, especially against the forces of hurricanes and earthquakes." "Independent tests of the nail's stretch were conducted by several organizations, including Florida International University, Clemson University, and the International Code Council. Those tests confirmed what the researchers at Bostitch had claimed, that they had created a better nail. Among all of the different tests, it was found that the new nail had twice the "uplift capacity" of other power driven nails, as well as doubling a home's resistance to wind and increasing earthquake resistance by up to 50%." Some good pictures: http://www.popsci.com/popsci/flat/bown/2006/product_75.html Here is a link that might be useful: Wikipedia article HurriQuake NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.21.2008 at 10:01 am last updated on: 07.21.2008 at 10:01 am
RE: My First Dream Home (Follow-Up #5)
posted by: bevangel on 07.04.2008 at 06:10 pm in Building a Home Forum dreamer_2008, The specific laws regarding M&M liens vary considerably from state to state however the general rule is that ANYONE who provides materials or labor for the improvement of real property can file a lien against that property if they don't get paid. The time limits regarding when they can file liens and what proof they have to provide before doing so vary considerably so you should have a brief conversation with a construction lawyer in your state who can guide you on how best to protect yourself. It might cost you $250 to $500 but that is small change compared to what fighting (or clearing up a lien) can cost you.
You are smart to demand lien waivers from every single person you know about but unless you are acting as your own GC, there is no way you can possibly know who everybody is. Your GC should be collecting lien waivers from every person he pays but many builders don't bother. [I know I have to stay on top of my own builder constantly but have made it a matter of principal that I simply will NOT approve any draw until I personally see the lien waivers from every single mechanic (laboror) and/or materialman he claims to have paid up to that point or that he intends to pay with that draw! My builder is very slowly getting better about collecting the waivers because he has learned that if he doesn't then his pay is delayed until he does. Also, find out from the attorney what the time limit is for people to file liens in you state and whether you have a statutory right (or obligation) under your state's laws to hold back some percentage of the total price from your builder until the time for filing liens is past. Where you have a statutory obligation to withhold a percentage in case a lien if filed, and you fail to do so, you may have no recourse to your builder if it turns out that he has stiffed one of the many many people who provide labor or materials for your build. At the same time, your contract may call for you to pay your builder his final draw with no retainage when you accept possession... even where the law requires you to retain a percentage in case of liens! This puts the homeowner in a bind but an attorney can advise you on how to deal with it and protect yourself. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.07.2008 at 10:38 am last updated on: 07.07.2008 at 10:38 am


text:
AS SSD Benchmark
Version and / or Patch Used: 1.2.3577.40358
Developer Homepage: Alex Intelligent Software
Product Homepage: Alex Intelligent Software
Download here: http://www.alex-is.de/PHP/fusion/downloads.php?cat_id=4&download_id=9
AS determines the performance of Solid State Drives (SSD). The tool contains four synthetic as well as three practice tests. The synthetic tests are to determine the sequential and random read and write performance of the SSD. These tests are carried out without the use of the operating system caches.
In all synthetic tests the test file size is 1GB. AS can also determine the access time of the SSD, the access of which the drive is determined to read through the entire capacity of the SSD (Full Stroke). The write access test is only to be met with a 1 GB big test file. At the end of the tests three values for the read and write as well as the overall performance will be issued. In addition to the calculated values which are shown in MB/s, they are also represented in IO per seconds (IOPS).
Note: AS SSD is a great benchmark for many tests, but since Crystal Disk Mark covers a broader range of 4K tests and HD Tune Pro covering sequential speeds, we will only use the Copy Benchmark from AS SSD.
- Copy Benchmark
AS SSD's Copy Test is where we get a chance to really observe the Patriot Rage doing what most users will be doing with it, transferring files to and from the drive. In this standalone format it is difficult to gauge the performance, so let's have a look at another drive.
Just above is OCZ Technology's Diesel, a mainstream flash drive designed for those looking for a low cost, high capacity portable storage thumb drive.
Either way you look at it, MB/s (higher is better) or time in seconds (lower is better), the Patriot Rage shows that its quad channel design is superior to a single channel configuration.


text:
In a rather intriguing video edit released last week, SRAM teases a new derailleur feature it calls Cage Lock, a feature that disengages the main rear derailleur spring, making rear wheel removal easier. Is this SRAM's answer to Shimano's Shadow-Plus we've been waiting for? Or is this simply an auxiliary feature—or a separate product altogether, aimed at the entry level market—that SRAM has thrown out just to watch the scoop-hungry bike media swarm themselves into a frenzy? Let's be honest, SRAM could release a YouTube edit of Greg Herbold's morning constitutional and a half dozen sites would embed it within the hour.
SRAM is holding a secret media powwow this week in Santa Cruz, so the answer will likely surface soon enough. Until then, check out the infomercial redux starring Kyle Strait.


text:
Garage Door Repair Gardena
Garage Door Repair Gardena has been selling and setup garage and gates since 1990 and till this day functioning and owned by family. We are the punctual member of Gardena's BBB and our ultimate goal is to deliver happiness and satisfaction with our excellent deals and offers in and around Gardena.
We specialize in garage door setup in and around Gardena. We also offer repair service for garage door in and around Gardena. We are an excellent providers of full setup service of garage door repair which also includes recycling.
We have huge option of garage door openers, torsion springs, extension springs, panels, hardware and lot more. Mike's Garage Door Repair company offers free estimations on most of our garage door repair services.
Garage Door InstallationsAre you searching for a branded garage door then come visit us because we got a very wide selection of many different types of garage door and other accessories and hardware that goes along with the garage door. |
Garage Door RepairGarage Door Repair company in Gardena is the perfect place for your garage door repair because we can do repairs on all types and varieties of garage door. We have certified technicians in our service department who can repair broken springs of your garage door or bring your garage door back on garage track or replace your broken cables of your garage door, replace your broken door panels, motion sensors, and garage door opener, repair and replace broken rollers and much more. |
Commercial Garage Door RepairWe do both repairs and setups for commercial door. We have certified and experienced staff to setup commercial garage door openers, commercial garage door, and repair commercial garage door, commercial garage door openers, commercial garage door springs and cables. Our Service has been serving in Gardena for many successful years. Give us a call. |
Gate Repair and InstallationsApart from setup and repairing garage door we also provide setup and repair services on gates. Our company, Garage Door Repair Gardena has high quality but affordable gates and gate openers. Apart from these we also have security gates, automatic gates and slide gates. We also do many custom gates upon your choice. We can setup a new gate either for your house or business and we can also repair one. |
Chamberlain | Amarr | Overhead Door | Wayne Dalton | Clopay | Liftmaster | Craftsman | 1st UDT | Ginie


text:
23 Aug 2009 | #1 |
Unexpected error on multi-boot system
I'm attempting to do an upgrade/update install of Windows 7 Professional over Vista Business. Everything checks out with the update advisor, the anti-virus and anti-spyware programs have been turned off (I have, however, left the Windows home-grown firewall on), but shortly after the temporary files have been copied and the setup begins, I received a dialog box saying that an unexpected error has occurred and that I should retry the installation.
My system is multi-boot with the first partition for Windows XP Professional, the second with Vista Business, and the third and fourth with OpenSuse Linux. I'm trying to upgrade/update the Vista partition. SP1 has been installed for Vista, and all of the updates contained in SP2 have also been installed. Sorry to waste your time if there is an obvious solution to this , but I haven't yet seen it in this forum or anywhere else. Thanks in advance for any help! |
My System Specs |
23 Aug 2009 | #2 |
Hello Clip5, welcome to SevenForums.
I honestly to not suggest an upgrade, it tends to cause more problems. As to the others you have installed. Perhaps it has something to do with OpenSUSE. Do you use Grub1 or Grub2 for a boot loader? (Or something else) |
My System Specs |
Thread Tools | |
Similar help and support threads for2: Unexpected error on multi-boot system | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
System Reserved : Multi Boot from Logical Partitions | Tutorials | |||
Installing language pack on a multi-boot system fails | General Discussion | |||
System Reserved : Multi Boot from Logicals' | Installation & Setup | |||
Combine both HDDs creating multi boot system with C: as Windows 7? | Installation & Setup | |||
removing win7 64 from multi boot system | Installation & Setup | |||
XP dies in multi-boot system | BSOD Help and Support | |||
Multi-boot system | General Discussion |
Our Sites |
Site Links |
About Us |
Find Us |
Windows 7 Forums is an independent web site and has not been authorized,
sponsored, or otherwise approved by Microsoft Corporation.
"Windows 7" and related materials are trademarks of Microsoft Corp.
© Designer Media Ltd All times are GMT -5. The time now is 13:35. |


text:
Although standard top-freezer refrigerators are generally less expensive and more reliable than other types, they don't get as many recommendations as the pricier bottom-freezer and French-door models. We found the best reviews overall for the Maytag M1TXEGMYW (Est. $750) , which is our top pick for the second time. This Energy Star-rated, 21-cubic-foot refrigerator does well overall in professional tests, getting very good results for temperature control and excellent scores for energy efficiency. However, its noise level is a bit loud, and it's not very easy to use. Like most top-freezer refrigerators, the M1TXEGMYW doesn't have a lot of features, but it does include a built-in ice maker and humidity-controlled crisper drawers. Also, unlike many top-freezer models, it's available in a stainless-steel finish (for about $200 extra).
We found more than 900 user-written reviews for this Maytag refrigerator at HomeDepot.com and AJMadison.com, most of them positive. Users like its capacity, superior energy efficiency and ease of cleaning. They also like the adjustable glass shelves and adjustable storage bins in the door, which are large enough to accommodate a gallon jug. However, one complaint that shows up frequently is that the M1TXEGMYW has only a single control dial for the fridge and the freezer. Many owners find it difficult to get the freezer section cold enough without freezing the food in the refrigerator. Users are split over the Maytag's noise level; some describe it as quiet, while others complain of constant and disruptive noise. Also, users who had problems with the fridge during the one-year warranty period complain that getting service from Maytag is a hassle.
Another highly rated top-freezer model is the Haier HT21TS77SP (Est. $700) . This 20.7-cubic-foot refrigerator comes in white or black and carries an Energy Star rating. Its scores in professional tests are nearly identical to the Maytag's, and it has similar features as well: a reversible door, adjustable glass shelves, adjustable gallon-size door bins and humidity-controlled crispers. Unlike the Maytag, it doesn't come with a standard ice maker, although one is available as an option. However, it does have an adjustable freezer shelf, a freezer light and separate temperature controls for the fridge and freezer compartments.
The main reason the Haier isn't our top pick is that it doesn't garner as many reviews overall from consumers. We found just under 50 owner-written reviews at retail site HHGregg.com, one of the few sites that sell this model. However, the comments we found were much more uniformly positive than those for the Maytag. Owners almost universally praise the Haier's temperature control, efficiency and well-organized space. There are a few complaints about the refrigerator's noise level, but these are far outnumbered by the reviews that say it's very quiet. We found only one complaint about durability in the lot, and that owner says a replacement Haier fridge is working just fine.
Sponsored Links are keyword-targeted advertisements provided through the Google AdWords™ program. These listings are administered, sorted and maintained by Google. For information about these Google ads, go to adwords.google.com. Google may place or recognize a unique "cookie" on your Web browser. Information from this cookie may be used by Google to help provide advertisers with more targeted advertising opportunities. For more information about Google's privacy policy, including how to opt out, go to www.google.com/ads/preferences. By clicking on Sponsored Links you will leave ConsumerSearch.com. The web site you will go to is not endorsed by ConsumerSearch. |


text:
hotels near cork airport
hotels near cork airport
Check out our superb range of cork airport hotels on lastminute.com and make your trip to cork an unforgettable one. Book one of the hotels near cork airport up until 8pm and you can stay the same night.
We offer big savings on all kinds of hotels in top locations right across cork so use our search box to find which of our amazing cork airport hotels meets your requirements. Whether you're travelling with your family, alone or with your partner then lastminute.com has the ideal cork airport hotel in cork for you. Book now for great savings!view all the cork hotels on our map
cork hotel search
refine cork hotel results
reset all filtershotels near transport links
: selected- cork airport hotels remove
hotel amenities
- cork hotels with free wi-fi (19)
- cork hotels with free breakfast (18)
- cork hotels with room service (16)
- cork hotels with airport shuttle (4)
- cork hotels with car parking (16)
- cork hotels with fitness centre (9)
- cork hotels with internet access (5)
- cork hotels with laundry facilities (16)
- cork hotels with meeting rooms (16)
- hotels in cork that allow pets (2)
- cork hotels with restaurants (14)
- cork hotels with spa (14)
- cork hotels with swimming pools (7)
hotel by brand
hotel star rating
hotel type
- spa hotels cork (15)
- cork airport hotels (4)
- designer hotels cork (3)
hotel quality
our top hotel destinations
lastminute.com newsletter sign up
subscribe to newsletters & custom alerts, you'll never miss deals that will rock your world.
cork airport hotel deals
Top Secret Hotels
We give you up to 35% off selected hotels only. In order for us to bring you these exclusive deals, we are not allowed to tell you the name of the hotel, until you've completed your booking! Be adventurous and take a look at all our other Top Secret Hotel deals.


text:
Watch: Cut Copy Spins 60-Minute Set for Australia Show
February 14th, 2013
Australian electronic Band, Cut Copy, recently performed a 60-minute set for Boiler Room Australia.
Cut Copy was formed in 2001 by Dan Whitford, who performed vocals, guitar and keyboard. Other band members include, Tim Hoey, Ben Browning and Mitchell Scott.
In 2011, Cut Copy released their album Zonoscope.
Posted in News


text:
Kari Ross, of Valparaiso, Ind., is over the edge and about to descend 27 floors at 201 N. State Street in Chicago at Skyline Plunge! Sept. 8 to benefit lung disease research. | Karie Angell Luc/for Sun-Times Media
Breakout text.
Article Extras
Updated: October 12, 2013 6:11AM
The 50 brave souls who stood Sunday at the roof's edge of the Wit Hotel in downtown Chicago had one goal — go over the side, 278 feet, 27 floors, straight down.
A portion of the sidewalk in front of the hotel at 201 N. State St. was sectioned off to accommodate those taking part in Skyline Plunge!, a Respiratory Health Association fundraiser event.
Those who chose to go down without stairs or an elevator did so to raise awareness and honor loved ones impacted by respiratory disease.
For Kari Ross, of Valparaiso, the descent was a special mission. Ross works nearby as a project manager for Leo Burnett, but on Sunday, career clothing was set aside for extreme sport gear and a helmet.
"I'm really excited to do this because my grandpa passed away of lung cancer from working in the mills," Ross said of her grandfather Don Ross, who died five years ago.
Kari wanted to call attention to health concerns by industrial workers.
"I think doing this just brings so much awareness to men who do work in the mills and who do pass away of all of these respiratory issues, so I am really proud and happy to represent them," said Ross.
For many, this was the first time they rappelled down a building. Some were adept at rock climbing, but navigating down the smooth glass of the hotel was something different.
There were also repeat participants such as Craig McClure, of Evanston, who claimed a four-peat.
"I did it the first time because it was very much outside of my comfort zone, and now I do it because it's fun and it's a great cause," said McClure. "Through this, my awareness of respiratory issues has actually increased quite a bit because as I have been getting pledges. I find out, oh, so many people that I talk to, say, 'Oh, I have asthma, my brother has asthma.'
"You know, there are just so many issues out there."
McClure, who works at Allstate in Northbrook, was accompanied to the event by his partner of 19 years, Stephen Orechowski.
Sally Szablewski, a Naperville resident since 1984, stepped over the edge for the first time despite a fear of heights. With minimal hesitation, Szablewski, a nurse at Edward Hospital in Naperville, confidently placed her sport shoes on the ledge wearing the same harness and other gear required to make a safe leap of faith.
"It's just an honor to be able to do this and I am grateful for all of the support I've had. Donations are still coming in," Szablewski said.
"I am doing this to support the cause and to honor family members living with lung disease," she said.
Szablewski and her husband Robert have two grown daughters, Joanna and Juliann, who also are nurses.
"This whole fundraising means a lot to me and a lot of people, " she said. "I have a group actually out there, the Willowbrook Dancers, they're a senior group that dances on Sunday afternoons, they got together and put in a donation."
Michelle Defer, of Gilberts, participated in honor of her grandmother Jacqueline Defer, who had lung cancer.
"She died when I was about 12 years old," said Defer, who wore a bright red shirt with her grandmother's name on the back.
"Many people who donated requested that I rappel in memory of their loved ones too, so I made up this shirt and I put their loved ones on the back as well," said Defer.
Defer was often asked to turn around to show others the names. With her gear removed after the plunge, Defer left with her goody bag plus another T-shirt, but the red shirt is a special keepsake.
For more information, visit www.lungchicago.org/plunge.


text:
Okay ..one more great deal over on Totsy today through Thursday 1/17! In the Cute and Cozy Bootie Socks Sale..they have 6 pack Boys and Girls sock sets for just $4.00! (reg $12.00) Fits ages 0-24 months.
Shipping is FREE on your 1st order from Totsy or on orders over $75.00!
There are so, so many fun styles to choose from in the 2 and 3 packs of Bootie Socks too!! Lady Janes, Flip Flop Toes, High Top Sneakers, Argyle, Ballerina and more


text:
It's been about a month and a half since I got my Canon T2i. About two weeks after getting it, I took off to Ethiopia to do some filming. In the short time between getting the camera and leaving for Ethiopia I had to scramble to put together an audio solution for the camera that I thought was acceptable (one of my initial tests).
It took quite a bit of time reading reviews, testing solutions, and looking at my budget before I decided what route to take. Take a look.
Microphone: Rode NTG-2
I mentioned this mic before in my audio tests, but the reason that I went with the Røde NTG-2 is because it was sub-$300 and battery or phantom powered. The battery part is important if you aren't using a recording device that supports phantom power.
When there wasn't critical dialogue or great sound, I would just plug the mic directly into the camera with an XLR to 1/8″ (with a line-in-transformer). This provided decent enough audio if I wasn't being picky (and I wanted to try to pull some of the extra noise out in post).
Audio Capture: Zoom H4n
For capturing the audio, I decided to go with the Zoom H4n. You can find a ton of reviews online and quite a few endorsements from professionals (like Philip Bloom). I was impressed with the features that came with the $300 price tag. The unit provides phantom power, 96Khz 24-bit recording, SD card memory, and rather easy to use controls.
I found the unit really easy to use. For the most part, I've been using it as part of a one-man documentary-style setting. I have a little case that holds the recorder that I can attach to my belt and plug in the shotgun mic, which is mounted to the camera using the hotshoe shockmount. The audio that is recorded on the camera is used as reference material for syncing up the audio later. I found it to be an easy setup to use to get pretty darn good audio.
Okay, so I don't have time to find samples right now, but I'll include them later. I promise.


text:
Wednesday 15 Dec 2010
HOK create an inspiring place to work
HOK London's move to the Qube in Fitzrovia gave us the opportunity to design a space that would truly represent who we are, what we believe in and meet our needs as a design practice. We wanted to demonstrate we could design an inspirational, world-class sustainable design within the normal budgetary constraints for a commercial office fit-out, while providing a platform for creative design to take place. As a result, the HOK Office is the first LEED Commercial Interiors (LEED-CI) Gold certification in the UK, which is functional, stylish and uplifting.
The design team applied an integrated approach which embedded sustainable strategies into the design, achieving real results in both energy and efficient resource use and social behaviour. Most LEED credits were earned with a diligent use of sustainable materials with a particular emphasis on recycled content, rapidly renewable materials and the utilisation of materials and finishes that contribute to better indoor air quality. As part of the sustainability initiative HOK encourages staff to travel to work by bike, resulting in a 10% increase in bike usage in the London office over the last year.
The open-plan layout of the interior incorporates numerous breakout and conference areas allowing staff to work flexibly, and encourages collaborative working; an important part of the company culture. The atrium space is the hub of the office - a hive of activity that unveils the mechanics behind the scenes. The materials used in the space reflect the light and visitors are welcomed into a bright, colourful, airy space regardless of the weather on any given day. The overall design chpsen was a simple clean approach that would pass the test of time, and be adaptable to change if / when necessary.


text:
44 votes | Gravity-powered Lamp |
If you do not have a spare one, you would be left with no choice but take it from other lamp in your house, or go shopping. But what if the lamp's lifetime will be around 200 years? Or let's think of another problem that comes along with light bulbs; its energy consumption.
read more23 votes | Lighten Your Room with Fake Window |
However, what if your room doesn't have any windows at all? You can place a daylight luminescent lamp inside, but this is very unoriginal. How can you be original in such simple things? It is possible with this fake window!This fake glowing window is a good solution to windowless rooms.
read more19 votes | A multicolor lamp |
Philips novelty represents a lamp that enables you to change its color by using a remote control and is named Living Colors lamp. This gadget will definitely brighten up your home in ways you have never imagined before, bringing the full range of a rainbow into your living place.
read more13 votes | Wireless internet via LED lamps |
Researchers from Boston believe that this is old-fashioned now, and offer another signal bearer - light! LED in lamps will be multifunctional - it will serve as a source of light and as an access point for wireless Internet - both functions will be done simultaneously. This opens a wide range of possibilities to be connected to Internet everywhere you go - every lamp will provide your PDA or smartphone with Internet connection.
read more10 votes | 5 ways to decorate your house and yard |
11 votes | Power tower motorized CD Rack |
The lamp on the top of it will let you see the CD even if it is dark in the room. When you found the CD that you need you just stop the Rack and remove it effortlessly.
read more8 votes | C-lamp doubles its functions |
This original picture tells us about new gadget weve found. C-shaped lamp is developed and planned for sales by Conofs company. Its a desk lamp, having inside an USB port. I want to tell that the lamp applies to be the spotlight of the buyers in the future. All it needs is only connecting with the USB port. Its simple and unusual one. Youll enjoy a wonderful brightness radiated by it and its presence will mean that the desktop is ready to work in your office. Nice thing to my mind. Moreover, the lamps possibilities allow to change 270 degrees of brightness, so you could choose your own by your style. The most remarkable thing is that this lamp operates well on the sight. So, it is sadly to admit the fact that we dont have enough information about this great product. Unfortunately we have noticed from the photo that Conofs lamp represents the so called dock for iPods. It says about the possibility of plugging and recharging processes of the iTunes and iPods. One more remarkable thing in it is its design. I could say it is very simple and at the same time represents an element of décor in the apartment. And we notice another nice feature its name is connected with the favorite third letter from the English alphabet. You could learn more about it including its price during purchase of this wonderful gadget.I think it would be nice to have such a thing at home. Enjoy its light!
read more8 votes | 5 ways to decorate your house and yard |
Continuing speaking about the lightening I definitely should mention this nice Lampel. There is nothing more beautiful than natural flowers.
read more8 votes | Solar rechargeable lantern |
If you want to use the AC adaptor or the 12V DC car plug instead, the lamp will stay alive for 18-20 hours.Once the power is turned off, the light will be automatically turned on.
read more9 votes | Shower UV lamps |
The UV lamps that can be installed into your shower will help your skin stay fit and brown. Besides, the UV lamps will stimulate your skin to produce the vitamin D that it needs to stay elastic and healthy.
read more6 votes | A water tree - water filter |
To understand better the principle idea of the concept imagine a pendent lamp over your dining room table. This lamp represents a tree that has fruits.
read more6 votes | ETree - the lamp that creates an unforgettable atmosphere |
The ETree lamp will definitely help you to light up your apartments and make great festive atmosphere. If necessary, you can switch off all the light except the ETree and the room will seem very charming, romantic and intimate.
read more6 votes | Robo-lamp |
This gadget is an original lamp that is shaped as a robot. The feature that it has besides the lighting on is that it can serve as a holder for different small table things.
read more5 votes | Clip-on Tray with Light |
More than that, the gadget has a very flexible neck, so the lamp will shine towards the direction you need. The Clip-on Tray has side handles especially for easy and comfortable carrying.
read more5 votes | Funky lamp - reading light |
The funkiest gadget, which can become a trophy, is the so-called - reading light footballer lamp.It will look so cool, and you may use it for lighting up your room, as it remains a lamp
read more4 votes | Mouse with a rubber ducky inside |
Take a look at your desk? Feels like you have got everything you ever wanted, a very advanced PC, the best USB gadget, the best laser aromatherapy pen to write with on an infrared display, and all this in the light of a retro changing mood lamp. You must be thinking what else could be there.
read more4 votes | Shattered Lights Lamp |
This strange but truly beautiful lamp of cheap material - broken tempered glass coated with silicone. This effect of light it obtained with the help of white LEDs all along the lamps edge
read more4 votes | LivingColors - the dimmer of feelings |
It is a special and distinctive lamp which will decorate any place: bedroom or office. It can also be used like a night light, especially for children.
read more4 votes | Bring llife to your desktop with Mini Greenhouse |
here is also an adjustable artificial sun lamp to help you lovely flowers to grow. It can be adjusted by height so your flowers will always get as much sun as they need.
read more3 votes | Lightbulb represented by Mathmos |
When I saw for the first time the Mathmos multicolor LED lightbulb I thought it is a simple pocket lantern. But this gadget - as I have noticed later - assumes much more interesting. Light emitting instrument could be used anywhere as it is made like usual diode that is used in different flashlights, semaphores and lightbulb sockets. It has 4 effects to transmit the light from one color to another: short pause, long pause invented for each color, slow and fast fade between colors. Having such lightbulb we have access to 16 specific colors for brighter effects and various color scales. Purple, Orange, Yellow, Red, Light Blue, Turquoise and many others are between these varieties of colors. A huge of combinations you get when using Lightbulb: it is portable and enough easy-used. Imagine you are planning a party or school performance. Besides scenery, suits and other elements illumination plays one of the most important roles here. So you can use this one for creating different light effects for with the purpose to surprise all. The built-in Infrared remote allows choosing any of 4 transition effects or brightness level or select an individual color of management. The illuminator has a standard lightbulb socket to fit it. The transmitted lights are generated from 5 Watt LED.
To my mind this gadget's invention is connected with the specific using and types of work. It has a lot of effects and permits different light transfers, but the main specification of using such a novelty is covered by especial appointment for use. However we can be proud of that we are honored to see a novelty, at which we get a color by simple pushing the button.
read moreTo my mind this gadget's invention is connected with the specific using and types of work. It has a lot of effects and permits different light transfers, but the main specification of using such a novelty is covered by especial appointment for use. However we can be proud of that we are honored to see a novelty, at which we get a color by simple pushing the button.


text:
Select () or exclude () categories to narrow your recipe search.
As you select categories, the number of matching recipes will update.
Find exactly what you're looking for with the web's most powerful recipe filtering tool.
I started cooking when I was about 12 years old. I was a fan of Graham Kerr's Galloping Gourmet and my mother helped me buy the ingredients and cook Steak Diane after I saw it on his show.
I can't cook for the family every night, but I try try to have one or two nights a week when I can fix them a home meal. Sunday is the day when my wife, 3 kids, 1 daughter-in-law, and 2 grand daughters get together to have a big dinner.
My picture is me holding my babies. Being a grandfather is really great. They call me Papa by the way.
Despite the possible health issues, my all time favorite is fried chicken! I do like chicken, pork, and fish better than beef. However, if I have a good grilled steak after a long abstinance, it does taste wonderful!
I love rice, pasta, most vegetables, and adore green salads. There are some tastes I don't care for, but I try them every now and again. Sometimes I find my tastes have changed and find a new favorite!


text:
about Nicole: Age:11 Date of Birth:May 29 Model from:Manistique Place you would love to visit:New York Favorite things:American classic cars |
Discussion: |
insidela wrote: Wow!!! your port has grown strong |
hodgins wrote: I looked over your port and I'm not sure what your modeling goals are but my advice from your work so far is to work on conveying emotion to the camera(in your eyes). Your a pretty girl but in all of the images there is hardly any emotion, just a blank stare. |
olives wrote: Just finished a brilliant shoot with Jeff. Made me feel completely comfortable from the start and made sure I was throughout the shoot, had plenty of time to chat and have a coffee. He's proffesional, laid back, and takes some brilliant pictures :-) Highly recommended and cant wait to work with again!! Thanks. |
ingram wrote: He has that interesting delicateness I see in a lot of Welsh boys. Pretty freckles! I see some good editorial potential. |
selinda wrote: She is so full of fun and creativity and is such a joy to be around i could have just kept her lol |
gbui wrote: Girl I must say that you need to read, intelligent, pretty good book |
giovanni wrote: Well what can I say about yesterday's shoot - I had a TOTALLY AWESOME time! Lee is one of those people that you immediately feel completely at ease with, we got on like a house on fire and had loads of laughs, he's very chatty and a naturally happy bouncy person, we had a good old natter all the way through shooting, time flew by! He also gives great direction and is missing out on a career with his posing :-P our styles worked perfectly together and I very much hope we'll shoot together again and I'm excited to see the end results of what we produced. If you're all about being creative and having fun you'll have an awesome time. 100% highly recommend, book a date to shoot now! x |
willie25 wrote: These are my favorite images in your portfolio |
sandrab wrote: While I see a beautiful model, the facial expression looks the same. |
[preteen model nn ] - [preteen model nude ] - [preteen model pics ] - [preteen model sites ] - [preteen model tube ] - [preteen model tubes ] - [preteen modeling ] - [preteen models ] - new added preteen model go usa-model.info! |


text:
Transfer Admission Requirements
What it takes to be a Briton starts here.
Albion has a selective admission process because we have more qualified applicants than places in the entering class. Students are considered for admission based primarily on academic performance. We evaluate the following:
College academic program and GPA: Your courses and grades must be at least a 2.5 cummulative GPA
SAT or ACT scores: Required if you haven't completed two full years of academic course work at an accredited institution.
What do you hope to accomplish at Albion? Tell us about why you want to transfer.


text:
Fri, Jan 30, 09 at 17:35
Hi, I'm leaning toward a D SLR and stopped into a camera store. The Nikon D40 doesn't have the VR lens that is anti shake but the D60 does,,,of course I can upgrade but it's more money. Is this "VR" lens that much better???
Also, I've had a few Pentax's in my day and liked them. What do you think of Pentax K2000 vs. the Nikons? D60 or D40....I'm running to Circuit City in hopes there is a "real" price reduction and not some come on...Thx |
Follow-Up Postings:
Well...I just called Circuit City,,they have the D60 with the 18-55mm VR lens for $479,,was $599,,,,Costco has the D60 with 18-55 VR and other lens to 200mm VR for $699...I'm not looking to spend $699 right now but that is the rebated price for a limited time,,,,WILL I REGRET NOT GETTING THE BETTER PACKAGE,,,I priced the long telephoto lens VR at it's about $200 so I could get that later. HELP ME... |
- Posted by tooltime47 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 2, 09 at 13:41
Before I buy any Camera equipment, I go to the Fred Miranda site to read the reviews. I have found them to be very helpful. Dave |
Here is a link that might be useful: Fred Miranda
While Digatal SLR's do not have the same problems with camera shake as Point & shoot, it can still be an issue particularly at longer exposures. I have moved to Nikon VR lenses for that reason and I am quite happy. Mind you it will also depend on the kind of photography you are planning. I do a lot of macro using a 105 mm and bird photography using a 70-300 amongst others. Longer and heavier the lens the more valuable I have found the VR. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Photography Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here


text:
Nominating a Speaker
How to submit speaker recommendations for upcoming MIT Technology Review events
To nominate a speaker for an MIT Technology Review event, please submit the following to email@example.com. Your submission will be reviewed by our editorial advisors, and we will be in touch with any questions.
The deadlines for our 2014 U.S. events are as follows:
- Digital Summit submissions will be accepted until March 14, 2014.
- EmTech MIT 2014 submissions will be accepted until July 14, 2014.
Submitting early is recommended.
Information to include for each proposed speaker:
- Name
- Title
- Organization
- Short bio
- Short abstract on proposed talk
- Optional: LinkedIn profile, link to one or two videos of past talks
Contact for follow-up questions:
- Name
- E-mail
- Phone
Please note that all submissions are captured for consideration for other MIT Technology Review events as well. Please do not submit duplicate entries.