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Ford Ranger Transmission Questions
fomocobro1 Posts: 3i was driving my 93 4x4 4.0 5 speed and all of a sudden it just either threw the clutch or the tranny or t/c went bad...it just started to free spin then when i stopped there was smoke comin from the bell housing and some god awful noise when i let the clutch out in gear or neutral,but when i press the pedal it stops..it trys to go and then it makes the noise..sounds like something bangin around in there or somethin..wouldnt it just seize if the tranny went out or would it make those noises like somethin is rolling around in the bell housing...hard to describe the noise..what do u guys think it is?
440duster Posts: 1I have a 99' Ranger XLT 4X4 3.0L auto. I have lost reverse, but shifts great otherwise. I've been looking for a good used tranny, but all I can find are 2WD models. My question is, can the tail housing be swapped out to bolt up to my transfer case? And if so, how difficult of a job is it? It is the 4R44E model.
stevegintn Posts: 9I have an '88 Ranger, 2.9 V6, automatic that I just had a new (rebuilt) engine installed. However, after getting it back from the shop, the transmission will not shift into overdrive.
The transmission was rebuilt about 3 years ago, and has about 5K on it.
The repair shop that replaced the engine says it's not *their* fault. The transmission shop that did the r&r on it says it's prob 'electrical' (maybe a solenoid) and wants $400 to fix (crazy!).
Any ideas? -
Unhappy Posts: 3Hi,
I have a 2003 Explorer Sport, and I believe it has the same body as a Ford Ranger. It has 58,500 miles and is under a 100K, 7 year warrantly. I was told by my Ford repair shop that I need to have the Clutch Slave Cylinder replaced, and the price is $700 plus, as my warranty will not cover it. They it is not part of the transmission. From what I read in this blog, this appears to be a known design defect with this truck. Although I've been a Ford owner all my life, I think it's time to switch. -
stevegintn Posts: 9Yeah, that bites, don't it?! - but 'clutch' anything should be part of Ford's 'Drive Train Warranty'. I'd consult another Ford shop, or contact Ford Motor Company, Inc.
My Dad drove Ford trucks all his life, and I have, too - own 3 right now - would NEVER switch to Chevy or Dodge! (don't even mention a rice-burner). -
stevegintn Posts: 9
Unhappy Posts: 3Thanks for your reply. I talked to both Ford Motor Company and the Extended Warranty company. Ford has 4 Extended Warranty Programs: I have the next to the top, and only the most expensive program covers it as a separate item. They say it is not covered as part of the transmission.
So, apparently, this part can go out anytime, regardless of mileage, and each time, Ford gets to drop the transmission to replace it, and charge the consumer over 5 times the worth of the repair. I no longer trust Ford. -
stevegintn Posts: 9OK, well, sorry to hear that - most people (like us) don;t have a clue about the 'fine print' in those so-called warranties. I had a similar experience, years ago, with a then-new '92 F-150. The fuel pump went out, which was (brilliantly) under the bed - cost me several hundred dollar for them to basically, remove the truck bed, to get to a 50 dollar part. That was pretty tough, as I was still paying (Ford) for the truck.
stevegintn Posts: 9Just to update on this, my transmission shop (that rebuilt it, 3 years ago) finished going through the transmission, and said THERE IS NO PROBLEM with it. They now think it's an ECM (electronic control module, aka 'brain') issue, as several fault codes came up, including codes for (guess what?), the overdrive and the cruise control (which also quit working). So that points back to the engine replacement job. Going to see an attorney about it, Monday.
mgrif58 Posts: 1I have a 1999 Ford Ranger 4X4 with 3.0 engine. (I just bought it, so I do not know it's history).
The transmission seems to shift fine. Has a whine in first. Was told this is a normal noise for Ford Rangers. I took it to my local Ford dealer for a transmission analysis. Apparently their diagnosis disclosed no code problems or issues. They determined the noise is in first and reverse. They say it is a "planetary" issue. They want to "further explore" the problem. Stated may have debris in the pan / throughout the transmission. (Extra money to pull the pan of course.) The fluid does seem dirty. Not bright pink as should be. They claim changing the fluid will not correct the problem. It seems to me that changing the fluid and filter could improve the function of the unit. I always thought the filter prevented debris from getting into the unit. So what am I missing here? -
cfowleron Posts: 14You're correct in your assumption regarding the filter & yes changing both the filter and fluid will allow the unit to function properly, but maybe only for a time. If Ford suspects a "planetary" issue then they suspect the gears. Planetary is a method of gearing much like the planets rotate around the sun the gears rotate around a sun gear and they all operate within a ring gear (someone correct or provide a better explanation?). If this is the case, perhaps what you are hearing is the gears rubbing (not quite grinding yet) and the shavings are soiling the fluid. In this case, changing the fluid will help clean it up but won't solve the problem, just prolong it.
I'd recommend taking your truck to some place other than Ford for a second or even third opinion.
Just my 6 cents. -
stevegintn Posts: 9
IhateFords007 Posts: 1Okay, I have seen several different replies to this question, and they are all different. Hopefully, I can get a for sure answer?
I have a 99 Ranger 3.0 automatic. I have already replaced the transmission once in it. Now the Over Drive light flashes and the transmission slams between first and second, with the check engine light constantly on. Can someone please give me a for sure answer on this? I would really hate to replace the transmission again for nothing. -
jmehoff Posts: 3I just purchased a '92 for ranger, truck was great on test drive! and ran fine the first couple of hours after purchase. Now when i shift up into 4th gear or 5th/OD, it acts like there is no power coming from the engine. It doesn't seem to be slipping or grinding... Just no power, and if you put the peddle to the floor the whole truck shakes and acts like it wants to die. I know the truck was sitting for a few years prior to my purchase... Could this be related to the fuel pump or filter in any way? And to be honest the first 3 gears are fine, nice and smooth. Any information would be nice, i'd like to fix this problem myself.
cwhary914 Posts: 1from cwhary914; I have the same year ranger & went through the same problem. The first thing is check spark plugs make sure they are good & gaped right. Next check wires with timing light this will tell you if the wire is mis firing under load. Next check the cap for cracks {HAIR LINE].Next make sure the belt didn"t jump. Take out #1 spark plug and turn the motor by hand to top dead center,make sure cap is on the #1 firing, stick a screw driver down #1 cylinder and move the motor at the same time {If the screw driver comes up the belt jumped ahead -If the screw diver goes down the belt fell behind. If it doesn"t move at all the minute you move the motor it is on top dead center.next make sure the firing order is right.there are two types most are of a U seiries. the firing order is on the top of the engin near the intake. the U is the first letter of your seirial #. In my case I had done all tese thing and still had the problem I fixed my problem by going with a hotter plug,Do to the gas know has ethonal in it.PS. dump 2 cans of muti port fuel cleaner in your tank the gas lines can become corroded from sitting for some time. It takes A day or two of driving to clean them. On the 5 day take your plugs out & claen them agian. It sounds like A lot but It is not your tranny .
murderers_r0w Posts: 2Hello,
I have an 02 ranger fx4 4ltr auto. the o/d light started flashing and would shift hard into second gear. I had planned on looking into the problem over the weekend, but on the way home yesterday I was going up a hill hen the trans shfted, then there was no power to the wheels. I coasted into a gas station and now I have no reverse either. Can anynoe tell me what happened and what i should do to get the truck back on the road. -
murderers_r0w Posts: 2


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Housing and Residence Life
Year-Round Housing 2014-15
Frequently Asked Questions
The following list of questions and answers are designed to help current residents considering a year-round contract for 2014-15 (May 23, 2014 to May 16, 2015). Please contact Housing & Residence Life if you have further questions.
What are the benefits of year-round housing?
- All interim periods are included (continuous stay with no additional charges beyond the year-round contract rate)
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Who is eligible for year-round housing?
- All returning residents who wish to stay in the same bedspace for the entire summer and academic year are eligible.
- Returning students who are interested in 2014-15 academic year and only a specific summer academic term are not eligible and should contract for the summer academic session housing separately.
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- If you have any questions concerning your eligibility for year-round housing contact the Office of Residence Life at 920-465-2040 before signing a year round contract.
When can I move to a year-round assignment?
- Move in (or room change) to year-round accommodations primarily occurs on May 23rd (9am-4pm). Be sure to come to the Community Center / Housing & Residence Life Office to check-in to your new accommodation
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Do I have to pay for year-round housing at one time?
- Housing charges are divided into 3 payments, summer, fall and spring and are per person/per year rates. Furthermore, partial payment plans are available through the Student Billing Office
Do I have to pay for spring-summer (May 17th-23rd) & summer-fall (August 21st-28th) interim periods if I have year-round housing?
- No, the cost to stay here is a combined charge of summer-academic year rate
- There is no charge for the interim periods
How do I contract for year-round housing?
- Starting on February 25th, go to the online contracting site and you will
to select from:
("Acad. Year – Aug. 28th, 2014 - May 16th, 2015" or "Year-Round – May 23rd, 2014 – May 16th, 2015") - Select the Year-Round option
How do I get a specific preferred assignment?
- You will be assigned a priority number (on your ticket to room selection) for year-round housing which will allow you to select an apartment during room selection on April 16th or 17th in one of the designated year-round buildings, space permitting
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What buildings are designated as year-round housing?*
When is the deadline for year-round contracting?
- You need to have contracted for year-round housing by April 3rd 2014
- If you miss the deadline or later decide you would like year-round housing, it may be possible to change your contract to year-round provided that you selected an apartment in one of the designated summer buildings during the room selection process at the Kress Events Center
If I change my mind about year-round can I change my contract to academic year housing?
- If you sign and submit a year-round housing contract, you are bound to the terms and conditions of the contract
- If prior to the April 3rd, 2014 deadline, you may be able to convert a year-round housing contract to an academic year contract. Contact Housing & Residence Life prior to April 3rd if that applies to you.
Can I live with roommates who don't want year-round housing?
- Yes, if you have available bed spaces in your apartment for the summer you would likely be assigned other roommates in summer and then they would move out before your academic year roommates arrive on August 28th.
What if my preferred roommate has a better priority number than me but may not want year-round housing?
- You may use the best priority number (Room Selection Ticket) of your roommate group for room selection regardless of which people signed a year-round housing contract or academic year contract
When does my year-round contract end?
- May 16th, 2015
- If desired, it is possible for you to then contract for 2015-16 year-round housing and continue on for a second year in the same accommodation without ever moving (provided your building is again designated as a year-round building)
Is my housing truly continuous; do I have to leave during semester and spring breaks?
- It is continuous - all housing facilities are open during spring break and semester break and the contract period is from May 23rd, 2014 – May 16th, 2015
What if I only want housing for the academic summer term for 4, 6, or 8-week sessions?
- This is permitted, but is not considered year-round housing. Instead it would be a summer academic term contract which does not qualify for a year-round contract and rates
- Summer-only contracting begins on Wednesday, April 9th.
*Space permitting

subset: commoncrawl


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I know this has come up before, but the post on Christopher Peacock's new kitchen design has me thinking...his kitchen island has a higher level, for the seating area, with a counter height prep area that's butcher block. Is this a sign of things to come?
While large, single level islands are all the rage in the magazines...I often wonder if people really keep their kitchens looking so perfect in real life. Of course, some people may, but I don't (just being honest) LOL. I'm a messy cook, with a capital M, but I have a lot of fun cooking. However, since I'm planning to have my kitchen, open to my dining area, I'm starting to think that a raised area for the stools might hide a lot of...well, creative process, shall we say :) While I can see that one large expanse of a beautiful material, like marble or granite, is very striking...I've also seen areas of wood and even stainless steel on a large island. Would the two tier make that easier, design wise? Would having one material for prep and another for guests, be easier with this design? Maybe marble for baking and wood for seating area...or wood for prep and quartzite for the seating area? Or stainless steel and wood...see there are a lot of options, here. So, for all those with single level islands, how do you like them? Same question to those with more than one level...do you like them? And if you're still in the planning stages, which way are you leaning? |
Follow-Up Postings:
We had a raised bar in our last house. It hid nothing. It hides only what's right behind it...Not across the kitchen or at adjacent counters. Also, only from the right angle and from people sitting down at a distance. All in all, not much help. An island, especially one that is completely in the kitchen rather than one that serves as a divider between rooms, is so much more useful if people can work on it from all sides. I'd never trade back for the higher seating. I think from this photo you can tell that anything at the cleanup or cooking area was on full display to the living room (where I was standing to take the photo). This was a photo for the listing...Our kitchen rarely looked like this! ;-) |
I chose a single level island for my new kitchen. It's 8 feet long and 4 1/2 feet wide. I like to spread out and I LOVE the expanse of workspace the single level gives me. It also makes room for more than one person to be working at the island at a time, sometimes all on different sides, and everyone has enough room. The large island can also easily double as a buffet, or a holding station for "extra" food in warming vessles on holidays when others have brought dishes to share, as we found out last Thanksgiving. A raised area can really only be used for dining, and in my opinion, it's not even much space for that. My area is also open to the dining area. I hide a lot of the 'creative remnants' in the large cleanup sink. My style of entertaining is always informal, so if there's anything left on the island or counters, it doesn't really bother me at all. All that said--your needs may be different, and your style may differ from mine. If it's really important to you to 'hide' the cooking area and have everything look tidy, then you might well be happier with a raised island. Cj |
We'll be having a single level island in our new build this Spring. Ours won't be that big so I didn't want to break it up. Plus, what rhome said above...doesn't hide much. Do you like folding decorative screens? Maybe for large gatherings when you want to 'hide' more during the gathering? |
Here is a link that might be useful: Decorative folding screens
We're looking at new countertops for our existing kitchen and wrestling with the same question. We currently have a raised seating side on our peninsula and it does seem to hide at least a little bit of kitchen clutter especially around the sink which is on the peninsula. It also ends up being a clutter magnet in itself. Otherwise it's seldom used except when we entertain (always *very* casual) or are feeding grandkids. We have the same material on both levels but I can see the appeal of defining them more by using two different surfaces. Hiding the creative process isn't an issue here - the seating side is in the den and, as mentioned, any entertaining we do is very casual. However, our kitchen is quite small and I've been wondering if taking the seating side down to countertop level would "open it up" and make the kitchen space feel a little bigger. Any thoughts on that? It also seems like I could more easily use at least part of that level as additional counter space when I'm prepping and cooking. I sometimes set items up there to get them out of my way, but it feels like a separate space, more part of the den, and I usually don't even think of using it. But then, where will all the clutter go? :-) Feedback is very welcome! |
My tier came off with our kitchen remodel and it is one of the best things to happen in my kitchen. I was so glad to see that thing ripped out. In my opinion, for us it was useless and did not block clutter, it just gave two levels for clutter to happen on. I love have the large, flat area to work on, because it is so open, for some reason my family doesn't seem to clutter it up as much. It opened up the kitchen area which is open to my family room and little breakfast area. It is so nice to have a large area for large baking needs, two or three people can work and some can sit around mine. I would never consider it again. Do not miss it one bit. |
I think it just comes down to, is hiding some things from view more important than a large expanse of work space? Each individual has to decide himself. |
- Posted by chrisfoster (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 9:04
You can use either a raised island bar for eating at or use an all on one level island for doing the same. The only thing that is different is the height of the bar stools. If you have a raised bar area, I would not use a different material. I would keep the material the same to tie it all together. If you have a separate island, consider using one material on the island, such as granite and use another material on the rest of the surfaces, such as quartz. This looks great! You won't get much benefit by having the raised bar as far as hiding your clutter. Just doesn't accomplish that with all of the vantage points that you most likely have into your kitchen. The raised bar looks interesting but you will get much more use out of a flush island as mentioned above. I think you will be happier with an expansive island the all can congregate around and you will have a much larger work surface. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Premier-Kitchen-Design.com
Ditto CJ47! I have a 9x3 ft island with seating for 4 on one end. It is a dream to entertain, buffet, hangout, multiple activities at one time. Kids love it for spreading out projects! I even dress it with a large linen table cloth for buffet set up. I don't like seeing messes so am a picker upper and love my deep Franke orca sink to hide last minute things. I also put in lots of different lighting all on dimmers, 8 can's, 3 pendants,(one is on it's own dimmer in the prep area of island and other two are on dimmer for the dining area) over sink, under cabinet this allows me to darken the "working" part of the kitchen while lighting the dining/entertaining areas. I agree that a raised bar doesn't cover the "mess" well at all. I think lighting/dimmers shouldn't be overlooked as a very useful tool. Cindy |
- Posted by chicagoans (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 10:00
I've had both and maybe I'll be no help because I like both! Pre-reno, our island was one large expanse with a bumpout curve for the seating. It was a stretch for me to clean the whole top without walking around it (and I'm 5'11" so I have a good reach!) and the kids' clutter spread more than I would like. But it was an awesome big expanse when I needed it. I went to 2 level, mostly because it was different (for me) and all my friends with new kitchens have 2 level. (I hadn't found GW yet pre-reno.) Pros: in my case it does hide a mess, if there is one, from the FR -- our FR is directly across from the island and down 2 steps. You can't see anything on the lower part of the island when you're in the FR, unless it's tall. The way my kitchen is set up, we have a 'work' side and a 'social' side of the island. The higher level keeps things from spreading; e.g.: my kids' stuff (papers, books, laptops) stay on the higher level while I work on the lower level. When we entertain, which we like to do, the higher level separates the "leaners" from my food prep area. Cons: as noted by all, it's a smaller expanse of space than if it were one level. One thing that can be nice on a 2 level is when there are outlets on the short wall b/w the lower and upper levels. Then you can plug in whatever gadgets (mixer, electric knife, hot plate, etc.) you may be using for prep and serving, without running cords to the ends of the island. I can see benefits to both styles, so I think it comes down to how you will use your space. |
We are building a house with a 7.5' x 4.5' one level island. I had a huge one level peninsula in my previous house that was open to the family room...and I loved it. I love a big, flat, open space. My new island won't even have a sink on it...I wanted all work surface (ah, who am I kidding, I wanted all ENTERTAINING surface! I'm a horrid cook.) Anyway, I am absolutely adverse to clutter and cr@p on my counters, so I have designed organization so that mail, backpacks, magazines...all have a home elsewhere! AND, I have this monster 12" deep sink to hide actual kitchen debris. I'm covered! ;) |
Ditto whats been said above - when we did our reno I ripped out the bar height portion of the island and made it all one level. LOVE IT, LOVE IT, LOVE IT. The only time I've seen a double height be essential is when the only sink is in the island - for some reason I think it helps. |
- Posted by beckysharp (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 11:26
LL, I think I've mentioned that we live on a farm and are planning a new house and farmhouse-style kitchen too. I am looking forward to my very first island and it will be one level, which to me seems more open and more practical -- for any sort of baking, cooking, canning projects, alone or as a family, it will be so nice to have more space. As far as clutter, that's what the two farmhouse sinks and dishwashers (2) are for! Seriously, I am thinking that with a well-planned, larger kitchen, clutter won't be as much of a problem as it is now. Besides, ours will be a "working kitchen", and at any rate it will be a huge improvement on what we have now. Becky |
- Posted by lavender_lass (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 11:32
Thank you all for your responses! :) Chicagoans- It's funny you mentioned cleaning, because that's one of my concerns, too...and I'm about your height. The dining table will be behind the stools (banquette with four chairs) so I'm wondering if my 'island clutter' will be a little more hidden, from people sitting at the table. I can see the advantages to one large space, in fact, my mom has a work table that she uses, especially for baking. She loves it, but I've noticed it's hard to keep the flour and dough away from everything else. With a two level island, I was wondering if you can set the pans and cookie cutters up out of the way...since I don't have huge amounts of perimeter countertops. While I like the way one large surface looks more like a work table (and fits more with my design style) I'm wondering if having two table type pieces of furniture, across from each other, is going to work? Maybe a higher bar area, would divide the kitchen from the dining area? I appreciate all of your input, so please keep the ideas/suggestions coming! :) |
I had actually planned and built my island as a one level. Then, after it was 100% complete we went back, yanked the soapstone off, recut it, reconfigured it completely into a two level. IN my case, the cooktop is in the low part of the island. And so I found myself reaching over the cooktop portion to reach the area behind it when I am looking for a little extra space to set something down. Reaching over isn't the problem because my cooktops are induction but with a one level island it was awkward reaching past the pots. With the area behind the cooktop now raised, I don't have to reach through the pot area on the cooktop to grab the salt. I'm effectively just setting it on a shelf above the cooktop. It's been extremely useful and I'm very happy with it. Keep in mind that my cooktops are only 16" deep instead of the normal 22ish so it's well within reach for me where it may not be for you. |
morgne -- do you have any pictures or dimensions? would be interested in seeing this in action... (I probably won't be putting a cooktop in island... that being said, if I did, it would solve a lot of problems... but I'd want a raised "barrier" shield like you are describing...) |
another vote for single level. Dont like the 'starbucks' serving counter look ;) |
An additional thought, that may be just my opinion...I see a bi-level island as more contemporary and definitely not vintage or farm-housy. ;-) |
Our kitchen island is single level, which I really like from a practical viewpoint. When entertaining, we have our guests sit on the side of the table that faces away from the kitchen. Works like a charm! |
Lavendar_lass, thanks for raising this question. I am also trying to make this decision. I have a very small house and the entry from the front door will lead right through the kitchen. (I am following Sarah Susanka's mantra of avoiding single use spaces like a dedicated entry foyer.) This frees up a bunch of space, but I am still a bit nervous about whether this will feel strange. So I was thinking of using a bi-level island to make the kitchen feel a bit more separate. Here's the big picture floorplan (proposed): And here is the close-up kitchen plan: I don't have space for a formal dining room, so unless I put a little table in the living room, I will be eating at the counter (when I'm not eating in front of the TV!). Given that situation, is one or two level better? (I have room for a 3' wide island if I keep the aisles 42" wide.) Thanks for your input! |
- Posted by lavender_lass (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 14:39
Lesley- Remember, Sarah Susanka also discusses the importance of creating a sense of arrival, when entering the home. The way the path brings you to the front door, the entrance itself...and having a sense of being invited into the home. I like your kitchen idea, but could you flip the living room and kitchen? I can't see the very bottom of your plan, but it doesn't look like there's an entry into the living room. Maybe you could put the living room at the top, with the (wood stove?) still in the center and the kitchen at the bottom of the space. Another thing...do you need all three bedrooms? If you took out the wall (or put in an arch) between the new kitchen area and the office/bedroom 2, could you make this a combination dining area with office space? I know Sarah Susanka is all about built-ins...and you could create lovely built-ins on the back wall (against the master bedroom) for dishes and shelving above...a nice work counter...and office storage/printer/paper below. It would also give you more light coming into the kitchen and an L-shaped living area. Remember how important diagonal views are, to make spaces seem larger :) As for the island itself, I found a few pictures I was going to post, so I'll put them here. I don't know your style, but these are from the This Old House website. Rhome has a good point about many people thinking two level islands seeming more contemporary. In your space (as is right now) I don't know if 3' will be wide enough for an island with seating. 42" would be better. However, if you can move the kitchen and open it up to the office/dining (I know, probably big 'if') you'd have more room and could redesign the space. Maybe even do something like this first picture...and put your cooktop on the island. That's an idea that seems to have lost popularity, lately, but I think it's still a good one, with proper planning :) |
- Posted by sunshinetm (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 15:11
Wow, the more I read the more confused I get. I was planning on putting in a 2 level island & thought it would be perfect for us. Now, not sure what to think. I thought I would be able to keep the toaster can opener & such on the lower level & not have it seen from living room so much which would be on the oposite side. I am not a big cook, don't need it so much for work space more for appliances & such. I have a small kitchen & just want to open it up to the living room & the raised part would be for eating occasionally. Only DH & I, very casual & not a lot of entertaining. We are not redoing the whole kitchen, just the area that would be the bar/island...lots to think about. Terri |
We are putting in a single level peninsula.(Current build hopefully done in a month-was supposed to be this week) I wanted a large level surface. Mine contains a 33" 10" deep SS farm sink. It's open the family and breakfast. My kitchen is 19'x 16' with a center work island with induction cooktop. I wanted it to feel open and connected to the rest of the house. Plus if it was raised I would have to walk around it to clean it.(5'3") I don't think I could get it all reaching from the kitchen side. But you should chose by how you live and cook. What will work best for you? Bridge |
As you age, the taller stools will become more problematic. They are also problems for smaller kids. Buffet serving is much easier from a single-level. Also easier to set up a sewing machine, a vacuum sealer, a canning or freezing project. Much easier to read a newspaper. |
- Posted by numbersjunkie (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 17:03
I agree with florantha - barstools make it harder to get on/off. |
- Posted by redheaddeluxe (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 17:28
LL, I wrestled with the same question for my peninula (not enough space for an island). This is one case where, despite my enormous respect for the many posters here, I have decided to buck the conventional wisdom and go with a two-level set up. I made this decision for several reasons. First, I am opening up my kitchen to my small dining room, and keeping some sense of separation was desirable. (There are some other elements that will do this, too.) Second, I too am a super-enthusiastic and super-messy cook -- but don't necessarily want everyone to see that! No matter how much I clean as I go, and clear before people arrive, actually finishing the meal dirties the entire (small) space. Although most of my entertaining is informal, some is formal, and I don't want the counters to be visible. With a raised bar, the counters won't be visible to people seated in the dining room. Finally, two levels allows me to have two materials. Someone above advised having both levels be of the same material, to tie it all together. Although that's one approach, I'm going to have soapstone counter but some sort of wood for the higher bartop surface - it's warm visually and, more importantly, temperature-wise. (I think Karen44_2008 was my original inspiration for this idea.) I want the seating area (which will only be for two, around a curve), to be inviting, not literally chilly. One final thought: Am I the only one here who rolls their eyes when someone suggests just having two sinks and two dishwashers???? (I'm an urban dweller with a small house and small kitchen....) Just my 2 cents. |
lesleyp, I don't think I like the bilevel island in your drawing at all. First, it creates an odd reverse-l shape staring at the living room, which seems particularly weird in that small space. Second, it seems to create a narrow, closed in corridor walking through the kitchen on the right--I don't think the aisle looks big enough for a looming bar-height counter next to it. Third, if anyone else has any need for a surface while you're cooking--kids coloring, spouse paying bills, lost guest opening a map--they have to come into the meal prep area to find it. Just my $.02 based on your one post. Have you posted your plan separately? i have lots of questions--like, where's the front door?!?--but we don't want to hijack lavenderlass's post. |
Thanks for your feedback LL and Marcolo. So as not to hijack this thread, I'll respond to your suggestions in the thread I started over in the kitchen forum. But while we are still talking about islands, is there any conventional wisdom regarding aisle width when you plan to have seating at the island? |
Here is a link that might be useful: Separate thread on kitchen plans
- Posted by julieh1926 (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 18:23
lesleyp -- I wanted to respond because your space is very similar to my space (with some slight variations). (I will post a formal plan soon for the GW jury to evaluate -- we spent months going back and forth between an island and a pensinula/U-shape layout.) We have a similar plan in the works for an island with seating (actually, our island will be narrower towards the wall near the range, and will widen where space allows for seating. We have open space where you have the tall pantry, so there won't be anything "behind" the seats.) One thing you may not have considered is that the 2-level counter will require additional structure (such as a 3-4 inch bearing wall) to support the weight of the upper-level counter. Thus, your 12 inches proposed overhang (assuming 12 inches if it is a 3 ft wide island) may shrink down to around 9 inches, which may not be comfortable for seating (and may make folks tend to push their stools further out into the "traffic" path of the walkway. Even considering the "hiding" possibilities on 2 levels, I would think that this space calls for a single level island for those reasons. Looking forward to getting our plans back from the designer soon so that I can share them with the REAL experts here on GW!! :) |
My vote goes for flat all the way across. But I'm bias because that is what I have. |
- Posted by lavender_lass (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 19:23
Thank you everyone and Lesley, if it's easier to talk about your kitchen here, I don't mind, at all. Let me know what you think about the suggestions...and I think I saw that 4' is best, for plenty of room for people sitting on the stools and the walkway, but 'best' and what you have room for, are not always the same :) Redhead- I think we'd have fun cooking together. I'm a super-enthusiastic and super-messy cook, too! LOL I've really enjoyed all the responses and pictures. Please continue to tell me the pros and cons, because I'm still in the planning stages and want to know all my options! |
I think the choice really depends on how you are going to use the space. We currently have a 2 level peninsula that seperates the kitchen and family room. It does a good job of defining those areas while opening up the kitchen to the living area. I also have a sink on the peninsula and it would be a wet mess without the higher level to contain it ( I am not neat). It does seem to attract clutter and I have never been able to incorporate it into part of a work space. In my remodel, I am keeping the peninsula with raised bar but will also have a one level island since I like to spread out when I cook. Hope this is helpful. |
- Posted by chinchette (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 20:09
Julieh, that is a really clever island. I like your kitchen. Definitely not Starbucks. I have a single level island and like it but one liability is that my sink is on the island and some times splashes go all the way across the very wide island. |
LawJedi, No pictures of the final island yet! But we aren't that far from completing the dang thing for the second time so I could probably put a picture up in the next couple weeks. I lived with the original island for about 6 months and then lived with the original island plus a big ugly fake "raised" area on the back for another 3? And the difference for me was huge. Thus ripping the island apart! :) One of the things I should have noted before is that I'm quite short so by raising the back of the island up I effectively brought it closer and kept me from having to bend over as much. In many cases, particularly the smaller of an island you have I agree with many people here that the single level is the way to go. It really does depend on what your going to do with it. |
Lesleyp...yes, there is. There's actually a wealth of information via the National Kitchen & Bath Assoc (NKBA). I used to be able to just link to it, but the NKBA has now restricted access to only those who pay a fee to join them. However, here is what they say: I don't know if they've changed their guidelines, but they used to say: Note that these did not include clearances when a work aisle was involved. That, I think is one of the differences b/w this and the new above. If you plan to have seating on a work aisle, I recommend at least 60" b/w the edge of the seating surface and the counter behind it. Yes, that's 5 feet. Think about it...if you need 36" just to be able to get into/out of a stool, is it unreasonable to need another 2' so someone can also be working in the same aisle? If the aisle is not a work aisle and is just seating + traffic, I think 48" is probably sufficient. |
- Posted by remodelfla (My Page) on Fri, Feb 25, 11 at 22:01
Single level for me. I'm too short to comfortably sit on bar height stools. We've had our two first meals at our counter height overhang ... one with our grandson tonight and it was comfy, cozy, and FUN! |
- Posted by beckysharp (My Page) on Sat, Feb 26, 11 at 0:26
redhead, I'm the one who mentioned two sinks and two dishwashers, and until now I've had one sink for my entire life (I'm 46) and have had a dishwasher for only the past 10 years : ). I grew up in a tiny NYC apartment, and lived in another before I moved here, in between there was an efficiency apartment in Washington, DC, and there was no room for islands in any of them. Our current kitchen doesn't have an island either. I live on a working farm and have three kids, and one of things I'm looking forward to in our new house, which will be around 2000 sq ft, is in fact a second sink (both Ikea) on the island and a second dishwasher (both Kenmore). Yes, definitely luxuries considering what I've had until now, but I am looking forward to them and know that we'll be able to put them to good to use. We home school and the kids like to cook, and our house has been so small we haven't been able to entertain family and friends as much as we'd have liked to in the past 17 years. And when my husband and his work crew are farming or building nearby, I have an extra few mouths to feed at lunch, which is our big meal. We're looking forward to a change with the new house, which my husband, who is also a builder, is building. Based on some of the kitchens I've seen and read about here, mine will probably be pretty modest : ). |
oh have i struggled with this one! great thread LL. :) our layout will have just a mini peninsula in a small kitchen, but we decided to go one level. the only thing i really worry about is food rolling/flying off the back while i prep and my puppy getting to it! ;) |
buehl -- thanks so much for taking the time to post the NKBA guidelines. Since I have an old house, perhaps I can use the old recommendations! I have added the measurements to my kitchen plans, and it turns out that I should have 44" between the island and the walkway if I keep to a 3' island and a 42" aisle on the work side. leela -- your kitchen is so beautiful! Are those soapstone counters? I have posted some new images over in my plea for help thread if anyone wants to weigh in ... ;) |
Here is a link that might be useful: Please Help Design my Kitchen
- Posted by lavender_lass (My Page) on Sat, Feb 26, 11 at 10:14
Lesley- I like your island all one level. I think it opens up your kitchen more...I posted over on your other thread, including some possible changes to your floor plan :) Leela- Your kitchen is beautiful! In fact, I used it for an idea I had for Lesely's kitchen. It's a great idea, to have the one level island and another area that's two level. |
We just went through this decision with our design. In the end, I opted for a single level, since I was too afraid that if I made it 2 levels, I would not get the proportions perfect - the seating area would be too big or too small, the workspace would be too big/too small, and my opinion one which was which would probably depending on the time of day/day of the week, etc! Beth |
lesleyp-Thank you and yes, our counters are soapstone. thanks to you, too, LL |
- Posted by Mark(firstname.lastname@example.com) onWed, Apr 6, 11 at 21:31
lesleyp You probably already have your remodel completed, but in case you don't, have you considered removing the island and instead having a penisula between the kitchen and living room? This would really open up your kitchen, and allow two people to work in the kitchen at the same time. You would also prevent a narrow walkway issue when people are actually using the seating area. As for bi-level or single level. Ignoring the possible clutter issues, unless you plan on having a sink, or cooking surface, a single level will be more functional/practical simply because you will have a much bigger flat surface for all your work. The Bi-level will be more visually appealing, or at least, in 2011 it's considered more visually appealing. In 10 years bulkheads everywhere, and full walls separating all the rooms could come back into style. In which case, we probably shouldn't have start our remodel. |
No sure if this forum is active or not but Just finishing my remodel. I put in two Islands. One is "counter" height with the sink in it with an overhang for seating. The second one is all "Bar height" with seating on one side with the overhang-the other side has a beverage center and three bar height cabinets. Can't sit on that side with chairs (cuz of cabinets) but great to lean on with food and drinks...like a bar. I did not want two levels on the Bar island since: 1) everyone has it,,,and I wanted a different look and 2) one can never really entertain on the small level without drinks and snacks falling off. I really want this to be a "bar". Now that it is done, the Bar looks massive since all one level at bar height. I hope I don't regret this ..we are not moved in yet but hope if find this great to entertain? I will post pics if interested. |
Yes, please post pictures! |
I like all one level at counter height. I bought a counter height table too, well actually I bought two of them. I can get 8 chairs around the tables when they are small, and 12 around them when large. Normally 8 are around the table and 4 are at the counter height bar. When the table is expanded, I just move the chairs over. Saves having to store extra chairs, and avoids mismatched chairs. Gives me a lot of flexibility. No, I don't have a dining room. Counter height dining in the kitchen space is fun, and less stuffy. I tend to shirk tradition whenever I can.... |
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Related to MAKE 10, MakeShift
MakeShift 10: Analysis, Commentary, and Winners
by Lee D. Zlotoff
September 07, 2007
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[ Display main threads only] [ Newest First]Showing messages 1 through 13 of 13.
links don't work
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above links to Master solutions not working as of 10sep07. thxPosted by VinnyF on September 10, 2007 at 20:28:46 Pacific Time
Gifts you with?
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"gifts you with"?! how about "gives you"...?
Posted by sweavo on October 01, 2007 at 05:07:08 Pacific Time
Stainless Steel
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Actually, stainless steel does NOT stick to magnets -- but most knife blades are not made of stainless, because it doesn't hold an edge as well as it might.Posted by EdwinWiseOne on October 01, 2007 at 09:11:14 Pacific Time
Stainless Steel
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Oops, a quick google says "maybe". Some does, some does not.
Anyway, the stainless steel I used in body jewelry did not.Posted by EdwinWiseOne on October 01, 2007 at 09:12:16 Pacific Time
Stainless Steel
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Yes I can imagine the method used to determine what the items in question were (Really) made from, and was it (Really)magnetic. I have a "Rock" on my desk,found in my garden-12Lbs. Is it magnetic? Most people would say no. When I tested it I found magnets stick to it (attracted)quite well. Although non magnetic (does not attract iron).
It is probably Nickel/Iron in its native raw form. "Steel" is magnetic when magnetized, same for Nickel. Same for most iron based alloys. However for a REALLY strong magnet - Go get the magnet from a car speaker.Posted by arden55 on October 05, 2007 at 03:06:42 Pacific Time
Stainless Steel--why Zlotoff puzzled about this basic concept
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I concur with all those who note that when speaking generally about stainless steel, at least quality stainless steel, it cannot be counted on to have enough iron in it to attract a magnet. Grades of SS vary, but the better grades have enough nickel and/or other alloys to render material not responsive to a magnet. (someone please explain how to magnetize nickel?? as someone has mentioned above) Though your swiss army knife's grade NOT that type usually, as another reader sagely pointed out, it's first mandate is to hold an edge. So it will contain enough iron in most all cases. Remember that with SS, the intent is to make the material 'stainless', and with items like kitchen equipment, hospital equip, marine equip. etc, rust is a prime 'stain' to be avoided around wet (or bloody or salty) environments. (rust in a sterile environment makes a good matrix for hidden bacteria....)Posted by gadget2 on December 03, 2007 at 11:49:30 Pacific Time
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Flaws with this approach:
You wouldn't be able to use barbed wire, as its not got a coating on it. You could make a coil with it, but it would be a dead short and produce no current, UNLESS you put something around it to insulate. You could try to only make a few loops in the coil and have them seperated, but then it would be weak. The wire needs to be insulated. Also the coil needs a core, or its going to be pretty weak. I guess you mentioned a stainless steal knife, but not all types have good magnetic properties. A wrench or something with more pure iron would be best.
The wire in the metal detector is pretty fine wire, and without something to limit the current, would almost certainly melt, just like overloading a subwoofer, the coil melts. You need larger gauge wire that could handle the current. Also, there is n
Plus, on SUV's, most of them anyway, you need a socket set to remove the battery and battery terminals.
As far as stainless being magnetic, it depends on if its just straight stainless steal, or if its got chrome on it. Straight Nickel and steel to make stainless has very low magnetic ability. When you add chromium, it adds some of that back. Inneficient but it will work.Posted by Frodus on October 01, 2007 at 12:02:09 Pacific Time
Magnetic Properties
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As already mentioned, stainless steel is often demagnetized. In fact stainless steel fasteners are often demagnetized for work around...wait for it...electromagnets.
Keys are brass. Key rings are often steel, but no guarantee.
Practically speaking, there's probably something magnetic in some part of the keys/knife combo, but the amount and usefulness of the material is doubtful.
Posted by KWillets on October 01, 2007 at 13:35:36 Pacific Time
Magnetic Properties
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Also, if the electromagnet idea is assumed to be viable, why not just use a relay from under the dashboard? These are small, already 12v friendly, and often just unplug from a panel. If you extend the leads from the socket, you get fuse protection as well. If worse comes to worse you can unwind the coil and make a larger electromagnet.
Or, remove the airbags, place them in the hole, and blow everything to smithereens. Add some gas and nearby naturally occurring deposits of Ammonium Nitrate to increase the effect.Posted by KWillets on October 01, 2007 at 15:20:55 Pacific Time
barb wire electromagnets
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seems like making a electromagnet from barbed wire would be something of a lesson in futility. its not insulated, so getting a high enough coild density would be extremely difficult because there would have to be an air gap between each coil. not to mention that the list of supplies does not include gloves or a way of cutting off an appropriately sized piece of the wire in the first place. speakers contain a high power permanent magnet that would be ideal to fish out keys. as far as picking up the keys, in my experience, keyrings are almost always made of some form of steel, and are magnetic. stainless steel is sometimes magnetic, but sometimes not. ie. the front of my fridge is stainless, but magnets dont stick to it, only the sides which are regular steel.Posted by hivoltage on October 01, 2007 at 19:23:49 Pacific Time
Electromagnets vs speaker magnets
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Having tried to build a few electromagnets in my time, I think you are nuts to prefer that approach over try to use a magnet from the speaker.
The speaker magnets are designed to have a large magnetic field in a small size - exactly what you want.
Whereas trying to create an electromagnet that performs well is tough. It will either not be strong enough, use too much power, or melt your wire. And if it turns off at the right time, you're SOLPosted by EricGu on October 01, 2007 at 16:21:50 Pacific Time
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An idea for your next Make: festival. Get a pile of rocks/boulders deliver and then have them placed with a cavern type thing (as told in the story (but maybe not the same depth)) and drop a set of keys and make it a challenge for people to try and get the keys out and have the same stuff (eg: car(maybe a second hand car or something), pick ect) there so its close to the story as possible.Posted by p858snake on October 01, 2007 at 20:35:12 Pacific Time
One Question...
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So what I don't understand is we've lost our keys but all the supplies to "rescue" the keys are in the car. Where's the line in the write-up that says "Honey, I'm gonna have to break a window since the car is locked."
Which reminds me, I have to hide a key on my car for just this type of scenario!
Posted by Yabbo on December 03, 2007 at 13:16:08 Pacific Time
Showing messages 1 through 13 of 13. |


text:
Drivetrain | |
Layout | Mid-Engine, RWD |
Transmission | 6 Speed Manual |
Engine | |
Type: | Audi-sourced TFSI Inline 4 |
Induction | Turbocharged |
Horsepower | 240 bhp |
Torque | 229 lb-ft. |
Displacement | 2.0 liters |
Exterior | |
Body Type | 2 Door, 2 Seat Street Legal Race Car |
Curb Weight | 1742 lbs |
Performance | |
Acceleration (0-100 km/h) | 3.9 seconds |
Top Speed | 137 mph |
Power-to-Weight Ratio | 120 bhp per liter |
Fuel Consumption | 7.9 litres/100 km |
Emissions | 187.23 g/km |
KTM has taken the purists-only 2009 KTM X-BOW and split it into several dedicated models for drivers with different needs and interests. Perhaps the most noteworthy of the new X-BOW models is the homoglamated KTM X-Bow Street version, which will be tearing up backroads and public days on the Nurburgring in markets across Europe soon.
The X-BOW Street has matured somewhat from the earliest KTM 4-wheel trikes, with a 2.0 liter turbocharged Audi TFSI powerplant and every feature not necessary for communication between driver and road thrown to the wind in the name of austere simplicity and weight savings.
Weighing in at south of 1800 pounds, the 2009 KTM X-Bow Street is good for 3.9 seconds from 0-100 km/h despite carrying only 240 horsepower on its shoulders. Taking the Lotus-perfected idea of light weight with simply adequate power, KTM takes things to the extreme. The result is a pure-bred race car that needs to rev into the stratosphere to stay in its power band.
A top speed of 137 mph tells volumes about how tall the X-Bow Street is geared. The X-Bow Street will not be an easy car to push to its limits, to be sure, but even in the hands of an amateur the big, sticky rubber and stickier suspension should save from many a collision.
Press shots of the 2009 X-Bow show a wheel fully in the air in multiple instances, with the chassis staying rigid and the other three shoes firmly planted on the ground. Whether the X-Bow's lack of creature comforts like, say, a windshield will prevent drivers from lining up to get a 50,000 Euro performance bargain in the X-Bow Street remains to be seen.
Even if it doesn't enjoy huge sales numbers, the fact that the 2009 KTM X-Bow Street even exists as a road-legal car in the current automotive climate is a very, very good sign.
The KTM X-BOW Street
Official KTM Press Release
With its aggressive design and immense sporting potential, the X-BOW is a milestone in 50-year
history of the KTM brand. At the same time it represents a new benchmark in the small but elite
segment of radical lightweight sportscars. This exceptional achievement is the result of its highly
original design concept and the fact that for its first car, KTM employed the finest materials, advanced
technology and the know-how of respected development partners. The result is a street-homologated
sportscar with pedigree motorsport technologies including a cutting edge monocoque made from
carbon fibre, identical to those that have become standard in modern Formula 1, for example, because
of its weight and safety advantages.
Thanks to the car's light weight and the 177 kW (240 hp) Audi 2.0 TFSI engine, the KTM X-BOW sets
new performance standards and outstrips even far more powerful sportscars. Weighing in at around
790 kilograms, it accelerates from a standing start to 100 km/h in only 3.9 seconds. At the same time, low fuel consumption (7.9 litres/100 km) and exhaust emissions (187.23 g/km) rival those of powerful compact cars.
But the X-BOW isn't just a racing machine, even if it does achieve spectacular performance on the
race track. With its modern technologies and exceptional dynamics, it's also oriented towards sporty
drivers who seek a purist driving experience on the road. By foregoing electronic assistance and
extraneous, heavy comfort features, the X-BOW offers an unfiltered driving adventure. This is made
possible by the double wishbone suspension front and rear, the exposed mechanical components and
the unadulterated concept that leaves the X-BOW without a roof, doors or a windscreen. The
sportscar's only concession is a 70 mm high, transparent wind deflector. So driving the KTM X-BOW
becomes an experience with an immediacy that otherwise can only be felt when riding a motorbike or
driving a single-seater racing car.
For the 2009 model year, there is a new X-BOW product line-up with ownership of the new sportscar
phenomenon from KTM starting at only 49,980 Euros (plus national taxes and import duties) for the X-
BOW Street that, even with its basic configuration, offers the absolute maximum in driving pleasure.
The Street series features in detail
- Carbon fibre monocoque with crash box, both in clear coat finish
- Audi 2.0 TFSI engine with direct fuel injection and 177 kW (240 hp)
- Smooth racing underbody, front splitter and rear diffuser in aluminium composite
- Individually adjustable pedals and adjustable multi-function steering wheel
- 'Keyless Go' system
- Lacquered alloy wheel rims
- Four-point safety harness
Factory-fitted special options are also available: a removable steering wheel, limited-slip differential or
street-homologated semi-slick tyres and of course a wide selection of KTM PowerParts.


text:
Fifty-eight people joined the Piedmont Forage and Grassland Council at its first meeting in Pendleton, SC, reports John Andrae, Clemson University Extension forage specialist.
"That's a fantastic start," says Andrae. He helped organize the council because, "We felt like we needed a voice for the forage community separate from, but complimentary to, the cattlemen's associations and horse councils."
The council encompasses the northern halves of Georgia and South Carolina, which have distinctly different soils than the southern halves. For more on the council, go to tinyurl.com/SEForage.


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William was born in 1801. William Beels ... He passed away in 1870. [1]
No more info is currently available for William Beels. Can you add to his biography?
- Bertruce Beals, firsthand knowledge. See the Changes page for the details of edits by Bertruce and others.
- ↑ Entered by Bertruce Beals, Oct 6, 2011
Wm Beels, "United States Census, 1860" Name: Wm Beels Event Type: Census Event Year: 1860 Event Place: Jerome Township, Union, Ohio, United States Gender: Male Age: 60 Race: White Race (Original): [Blank] Birth Year (Estimated): 1800 Birthplace: Massachusetts Page: 32 Household ID: 223 Affiliate Name: The U.S. National Archives and Records Administration (NARA) Affiliate Publication Number: M653 GS Film Number: 805044 Digital Folder Number: 004282802 Image Number: 00248
Household Gender Age BirthplaceWm Beels M 60 Massachusetts Olive Beels F 49 New York David Washington M 17 New York David Beels M 11 New York Almon Beels M 6 New York
William Beals in household of Hiram A Furlong, "United States Census, 1870"
name: William Beals estimated birth year: 1801 gender: Male age in 1870: 69y color (white, black, mulatto, chinese, indian): White birthplace: Vermont home in 1870: Ohio, United States
Household Gender Age BirthplaceHiram A Furlong M 38y New York Elizabeth Furlong F 39y New York Frances Furlong F 16y New York Sarah Furlong F 12y New York Emogene Furlong F 8y Ohio George Furlong M 6y Ohio William Beals M 69y Vermont Almon Beals M 16y New York
Isaac Stanton M 27y Ohio
About the above census record.
This is the only record or document that I have found thus far with William's name attached to it. I can find no record at all with both names, William Beals and Olive Greene, together on the same page.
At first I didn't know who all the people listed on this census record were but I now have figured out all but one.
First, there's William Beals of course. Then there's Almon listed just below him, at the age of 16 years. Almon was a son born to William Beals and Olive Green.
Here William and Almon are living together in Ohio at the household of William's daughter Elizabeth Beals (now Furlong) and her husband Hiram Furlong. The rest of the names listed here are children born to Elizabeth and Hiram with the exception of Isaac Stanton. I don't know who he is or how he fits in here.
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Home Congregations About Us Bookstore Press Room Giving
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In "Love Connects Us," a Tapestry of Faith program
Participants weave bookmarks to give to congregation members identified in Activity 2, Virtual Treasure Hunt for Congregational Volunteers. Weaving and giving the bookmarks not only honors volunteers who sustain the community, it also embodies the "tied together" theme of the program and, if an adult guest can come receive the gift, gives the children an opportunity to connect with adult members of the congregation.
As participants work, engage them in choosing congregational volunteers to thank with a bookmark. Call their attention to the results of the Activity 2 "treasure hunt;" encourage them to choose someone outside their own family. Ask children the reasons for their choices. Help them prepare what to say when they give a volunteer the gift. You might suggest words such as, "Thank you for your service which helps tie our community together." If adult volunteers are present to receive the bookmark gifts, these words spoken by one of the participants may be enough for a simple, symbolic presentation from the group.
Invite one or more volunteers to make a bookmark for the Rainbow Wall Hanging. Invite them to tie a bookmark to the wall hanging now or during the Closing.
If no adults can join you to accept participants' gifts, tell the group your plan for presenting the gifts at another time. If you will give bookmarks to adults on behalf of the group, be sure to report back to the children after you have made the presentation. If children will give bookmarks to recipients on their own, make a note to ask them at a future meeting about their interaction with the adult volunteer(s).
A leader should pair up with any child who lacks the manual dexterity to weave a bookmark on their own.
For more information contact web @ uua.org.
This work is made possible by the generosity of individual donors and congregations. Please consider making a donation today.
Last updated on Thursday, October 27, 2011.
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I'm in the middle of some major redecorating and ran across the following article: http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/specials/chi-china-timber-htmlstory,0,1381395.htmlstory
"Made in China" wasn't my first choice, but I wasn't going out of my way. This article really put things in perspective for me about the timber industry in China and how it affects others. So I'll do my best to buy "locally". What are your favorite American manufacturers (or Canadian?)? Are there American furniture makers that don't use American grown timber? At the risk of overlogging, I'd rather get American grown wood in quality furniture that will last. Thank you! |
Follow-Up Postings:
Mobel for USA made using 95% domestic wood (drawer bottem is often imported plywood) and Durham from Canada which uses a majority domestic wood. |
Anything made in the USA will be made with North American wood when a North American species is used - woods like maple, oak, walnut, cherry, poplar. |
- Posted by bobsmyuncle (My Page) on Thu, Apr 2, 09 at 20:43
Harden has their own forests in upstate NY. I believe Tom Seely (in WV) uses local timber also. Their factory is just up the road from my brother in law (in Virginia). http://www.gatcreek.com/ |
Chatham Furniture Inc in Massachussetts. 100% solid cherry construction, all hand made. Harden as well. There's also some manufacturers in Jamestown NY. Some Stickley pieces are being made in Vietnam now so be careful. |
Which ones are in Jamestown NY? I don't live too far from there and would consider driving out if they have showrooms. |
Most of the products from these manufacturers are made in North America Hinkel Harris |
I am confused as to why briant73 would say that about post. I sincerely recommend Standout Designs. Have you checked out their website at all, briant? You would be as impressed as I was the first time I saw it. |
The reason I said what I did is your post doesn't sound like it's from an owner of the products but from marketing for the company. You just joined today and already jump in telling everyone not only about this company being great but telling everyone to browse it and buy it. But since you asked me to check out the website and how great they are I did. My findings left me none too impressed with a few things. No warranty I could find mentioned for said products. Then if you have a problem or just don't like the product you have a whole 7 days to return the product. Of course not only do you not get back the original shipping charge you have to pay freight back to the company and the company selects who picks the item up not the customer. So an internet order company that has no warranty and a whole 7 day return policy where you end up eating shipping to and back if you do have a problem. No thanks. |
Hi, To respond, I certainly had to join sometime and that time was a as good as any. Sometimes people are lurkers long before feeling a need to post, as I am sure you know. Sorry you did not trust my very honest recommendation. Hopefully others will check out the site and read the testimonials and feel the way we do. Good luck to alutz in finding what he/she wants. |
I hope we can list some more American Manufacturers too. Cozmo - As to Standout desings it looks decent enough but not being able to see it in person, no warranty information, and a return policy only lasting 7 days that doesn't include shipping costs either way I have trouble taking the plunge regardless of what the testimonials say. |
I would like to know the American manufacturer that provides the Laurent Table, Laurent Sideboard, and the Ella Side Chairs sold by Crate and Barrel (2009). I would like to find the quality of the manufacturer's pieces. |
I have been looking for a sofa/sectional for about a month now...very painful! We have been told that Massoud is one of the best out there but for a sectional it will run about $7300.00 So do we go Massoud, Bernhardt, Flexsteel or something from P Barn? I have read on this forum that Rowe and Masterfield are also good. Any help out there? |
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Sat, Mar 12, 11 at 12:50
DH wants to add the Eze-Breeze sliding panels to our front screened in porch. We live in Michigan so it would make the space usable a lot more of the year. Has anyone used this or anything similar? If so what are the pro's & con's? I have a small sample of what it would look like but contractor said the large version would look a lot nicer. I am having a hard time envisioning it looking nice with all of the different sections but he said it does look good. The porch isn't real big but I don't want to invest in regular windows & think this might be a lot cheaper way to go. Opinions welcome, Terri |
Here is a link that might be useful: Eze-Breeze website
Follow-Up Postings:
- Posted by sewlutions (My Page) on Wed, Mar 16, 11 at 22:28
We have had these windows for about 5 years. Ours are the ones that slide up and down-like regular windows. I got the dark vinyl as our porch faces west. I can raise all to windows to the top, bottom or inbetween. We use our porch from mid March til mid November. We are in east Tennessee. It rarely gets to freezing on the porch-but plants won't winter over there either. We have one pane that the vinyl needs to be replaced as the dog hit it with him paw. It is only a small tear-so not in a hurry. The windows are a special order and ours took about 2-3 weeks to come in. Would I do it over--in a heartbeat! We have an attached deck--and rarely use it-bugs, heat and sun! Our dealer told us that the greatest majority of their porches are sold in Chicago! Good luck--and enjoy! |
- Posted by sunshinetm (My Page) on Thu, Mar 17, 11 at 15:46
Sounds like you are really enjoying your deck more now. Ours is already screened in but no windows & since we live in MI, that cuts out a lot of useful time out there. Our deck faces east so we really don't need the tint. The sample we have is tinted pretty dark, can you get it clear if you want? If they like it in Chicago, we should like it here. Thanks, Terri |
- Posted by sewlutions (My Page) on Fri, Mar 18, 11 at 20:56
You can get the "windows" in several different tints. They are vinyl and my son loves to "demo" how they will withstand his fist! The idea is that they are hurricane resistant, and they are made in Florida. I'd contact the company and see if there is a dealer near you. |
- Posted by sunshinetm (My Page) on Sat, Mar 19, 11 at 10:51
I know the contractor that we use brought us a sample window & he installs these systems. The sample he brought was a very dark tint. He did show us how you can stick your hand in them ect... I won't show our Grandsons that part if we do decide to get them. LOL |
- Posted by sewlutions (My Page) on Sat, Mar 19, 11 at 22:03
Go to the Eze-Breeze website and look at the brochure and it shows 3 colors for the vinyl--clear, bronze and gray. |
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National apprenticeship certification system launched for England02 Feb 2012 The Alliance of Sector Skills Councils, the organisation responsible for representing the voice of sector skills councils, sector skills organisations and their employers across the UK skills system, in conjunction with the National Apprenticeship Service, have launched a new online system to support the statutory certification of apprenticeships across England. As the Certifying Authority for Apprenticeships in England, the Alliance will be responsible for issuing certificates upon the successful completion of each Apprenticeship. The new centralised Apprenticeship Certificates England (ACE) system will save apprenticeship training providers and issuing authorities valuable time, resource and investment and will allow them to track the progress of apprenticeship candidates. Speaking at the launch, Minister of State for Further Education, Skills and Lifelong Learning, John Hayes MP, said: "The Government is restoring practical learning to its rightful place as a hallmark of personal attainment and national pride. Apprenticeships are a gold standard qualification, and it's right that the hard work of people who undertake them should be marked and celebrated. "In this Olympic year, I am delighted to launch the new national gold, silver and bronze certificates to recognise the success of apprentices. The launch of these awards reflects the sterling achievements of the Alliance of Sector Skills Councils and the National Apprenticeship Service in helping forge a revitalised skills system that meets - and raises - the aspirations of learners and employers." John Rogers, Executive Chair of the Alliance, said: "I am delighted to be able to announce the launch of ACE, a system that will enable the certification of Apprenticeships in England and will underpin this vital programme. "Apprenticeships play an important role in the provision of a highly skilled workforce in England and it is vital that we ensure individuals have the right skills, at the right time, to ensure they are best-placed to take advantage of the opportunities that arise as the economy continues to recover." Keith Marshall OBE, chief executive of SummitSkills who chaired the Alliance group overseeing development of the new system, said: "I am delighted at the successful implementation and launch of the ACE system. This new system will benefit all parties – training providers, issuing authorities and apprentices themselves. It will streamline the certification process and make it more efficient and cost effective, providing a better service for everyone involved." Asked what an apprenticeship meant to her, Tammy Barrow, who was one of the apprentices to receive her certificate from the Minister at the launch, said: "Upon joining ward D5 at Southampton General Hospital, I found my role enjoyable, busy yet interesting. I found that I was always learning something new and wanted to take that step with a formal qualification. Within that year, I had enrolled onto the Advanced Apprenticeship in Health which has enabled me to gain clinical skills and knowledge which I love being able to bring to my work area with the support of my Ward, Assessor and Vocational Skills Centre. "Completing the Advanced Apprenticeship has given me the confidence I needed to progress in nursing. I have now enrolled onto the Foundation Degree in Health and Social Care which I believe will enable me to develop my skills and to progress further within this rewarding field of work." |
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La Punta Rooms Hostel
Calle Nyarit in the corner with Heroes,
Oaxaque�os Colonia Brisas de Zicatela S/N, Puerto Escondido,
Mexico, Distance from city centre: 2238.9km
This place is in La Colonia Brisas de Zicatela in Puerto Escondido Oaxaca next to La Punta Beach one of the best places to surf and relax with a nice
our hostel has no smoking policy we have a nice lobby place surfboards ,body boards motorbikes ocean kajaks and truck rent |
Availability & Rates
To view availability and prices please select dates and click 'Update Dates'Hostel Facilities & Policies
- 24 hour reception
- 24 hour security
- Air Conditioning
- Bar
- Bicycle parking
- Breakfast not included
- Free Parking
- Lockers
- Luggage Storage
- Outdoor Terrace
- Parking
- Restaurant
- Tours/Travel Desk
- Towels For Hire
Cancellation Policy
This property has a 1 day cancellation policy. Failure to cancel within this time will result in a cancellation charge equal to the first night of your stay.DirectionsShow MapHide Map
Calle Nayarit in the corner with Heroes Oaxaqueos Colonia Brisas de Zicatela S/N
From the Bus Station or the Airport here in Puerto Escondido the only way is taking a taxi. If you contact us we can go to pick you up to the airport or the bus station if we are available.
Located Near
zicatela beach


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I was in antique center in Sturbridge, Mass this past saturday and spotted a piece of Weller pottery and started flaming out over it. I asked to see it and thought I had checked it out carefully for crack, chips, repairs, etc. It had some crazing but that's expected. So, it looked ok and the price was right so I bought it. Sunday morning got up and started to clean it and as I was drying it I noticed it had a huge repair in the top rim. I guess I had missed it. The only thing I can blame is the light in the antique center and my flaming out over it. I was disappointed and it kinda bothers me and makes me feel inexperienced. I thought I was able to see repairs but somehow missed this one. Does this happen to anyone else too? I just hate when that happens. Thanks for listening! |
Follow-Up Postings:
Not recently....;-Q Years ago, there was this "elderly woman".....likely 5 years younger than I am now.....who was a fabulous dealer. She was so knowlegable and had the most WONDERFUL things! EAPG was her thing and it's where I got my yen for the stuff and my desire to seek out and buy all of the Kamm Pitcher books. |
- Posted by antiquesilver (My Page) on Mon, Mar 5, 12 at 12:58
Don't feel bad - you're not alone - it's happened to all of us (except Linda, LOL)! We see a treasure that others haven't recognized judging by the price & BAM..... we're overcome with desire (& more than a little greed) & we snap it up. Only to find out there's a problem or it wasn't what we thought it was. That's why we have yard sales! |
And....it's really easy to do on eBay....ask me about the teeeny tiiiiny brass candlesticks! The seller said they were miniature, and really heavy for their size. Solid brass and the picture looked wonderful. I collect miniature brass candle sticks....you know the ones that are 3 to 4 inches tall? Well this pair was 3/4 inch tall..... |
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I've tried so many different drivers over the years, but I've never smiled so hard like I did with this club from the 1st swing. I won't BS and say I've gained 50 yards or anything like that, but I am hitting the ball a good 10-15 yards longer and with less effort. Plus the accuracy has been amazing! Finally a big dawg that I won't look to replace anytime soon.
Finally got a chance to play this club and it was great. Needed some help tuning the slider feature to my swing, but I can say that it does make a difference.
Longest driver I have ever hit... period.


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Welcome to Boredom Software! The home of me, a single male with a compiler and way too much time on his hands.
I not a professional software engineer. That being said, I enjoy writing code a great deal and I like to share my creations, software or not, with people. Which is why this website exists.
Some of my programs are arguably useful, though perhaps unimaginatively named. There's VT Hash Check which is a Windows Explorer context menu addon. It hashes files and queries the VirusTotal API with the hash, reporting back to the user the results of the most recent VirusTotal scan for that file, if any.
Others are completely frivolous and serve no purpose other than existing. For example, Blinkenlights, which shows a small rectangle of randomly alternating colored circles.
There are also several projects which are not full programs but rather useful components which can be imported into a REALstudio/Xojo project. These include classes such as an FTP client and server classes using pure RB; bindings for UnRAR and libcURL; and WinLib which exposes a wide range of Windows-specific APIs.
There are also one or two tech-related rants/raves over in the Commentary and Vitriol section and a fairly mundane list of links and resources.