text:
- Picture More - http://blog.shutterfly.com -
Golf vacations can be luxurious getaways
Posted By Sean C On September 14, 2010 @ 7:00 am In Travel | 2 Comments
If my post about Las Vegas [1] golf courses has you thinking about a golf vacation, you might want to consider a luxury golf vacation [2]. There are many resorts all over the world with breathtaking golf courses, full service spas, luxurious accommodations and world-class service – which make the perfect romantic getaway for two. Here are a few of my favorites.
Four Season Scottsdale at Troon North
If you are like me you just got Goosebumps reading "Troon North". The Troon North courses are two of the top in America and by staying at the Four Seasons Scottsdale you will have access to both The Pinnacle and The Monument. Built into the foothills of Scottsdale, Arizona [3] you will experience elevated tee boxes and gorgeous views of Pinnacle Peak. If you or your significant other is not a golfer, you can enjoy the 12,000 sq ft, full service spa! After golfing or a relaxing massage you can grab a famous margarita in the awarding winning "Phoenix" bar and take in the sun on the 6,000 sq ft pool. You also have 3 beautiful restaurants to choose from for your romantic dinner for two. How perfect does that sound?
(Image by CraigL13 [4])
Ritz–Carlton Golf & Spa Resort, Montego Bay Jamaica
You can't talk about luxury without mentioning Montego Bay, Jamaica [5]. Montego Bay has some of the nicest resorts and white sand beaches in the world. If you know anything about Ritz–Carlton Resorts you know that they put the "Ritz" in "Ritzy". With 5 restaurants, 2 bars and a full service spa their reputation holds true at this resort. Partnered with the Ritz is the golf course called White Witch. Don't be scared off by the name, it has some of the most beautiful views of the Caribbean Sea, and the course winds through the 5,000 acre Rose Hall Plantation surrounded by mountains.
(Image by Julie323 [6])
Ritz–Carlton Kapalua, Maui
You might already recognize the golf here because of the PGA Tour Mercedes–Benz Championship. Ocean views and lush fairways describe this course well. One of the many signature holes is #18 a 663-yard par 5 that plays toward the ocean! The Bay is the other championship golf course in this resort. The favorite hole seems to be #5 a 205-yard par 5 where you have to carry 100 yards of the Pacific Ocean to reach the green. The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua [7] recently went through a $160 million renovation and has been awarded the AAA Five-Diamond award! With direct beach access and a new spa opening up this June there will be spa time for everyone! After your golf round, you can relax by the 10,000 sq foot pool with a cool drink from their pool bar. And did I mention the 6 restaurants?
(Image by Lainee [8])
I hope that these luxurious vacation ideas will give you both the much-needed getaway for two. Where do you like to take golf vacations?
Wishing you fairways and greens!
Article printed from Picture More: http://blog.shutterfly.com
URL to article: http://blog.shutterfly.com/5005/golf-vacations-can-be-luxurious-getaways/
URLs in this post:
[2] luxury golf vacation: http://www.deltavacations.com/sitenav?tag=LUXURY_INDEX&rfr=SFBLOGLUXGOLF083110
[3] Scottsdale, Arizona: http://www.deltavacations.com/planning/destination.do?destinationCode=PHX&rfr=BLOGLUXGOLF081609)
[4] CraigL13: http://community.shutterfly.com/gallery/post/start.sfly?postId=/gallery/1/post/GMGDFgwaN27lqwYgsKrXlm
[5] Montego Bay, Jamaica: http://www.deltavacations.com/planning/destination.do?destinationCode=MBJ&rfr= SFBLOGLUXGOLF083110
[6] Julie323: http://blog.shutterfly.com/wp-admin/post.php?action=edit&post=5005&message=1
[7] Ritz-Carlton Kapalua: http://www.deltavacations.com/planning/destination.do?destinationCode=OGG&rfr= SFBLOGLUXGOLF083110
[8] Lainee: http://community.shutterfly.com/gallery/post/start.sfly?postId=/gallery/1/post/GMGDBg2aNHDBy1YgsgQaRe
Click here to print.
Copyright © 2009 Picture This. All rights reserved. Please recycle.


text:
Debug pop-up screen
Many times we would like to start debugging from a Pop-up screen, but the editor doesn't allow us to do that.
Many times we would like to start debugging from a Pop-up screen, but the editor doesn't allow us to do that. Instead, we have to start debugging all the way from main screen. However, here is some code that will allow you to make edits in a pop-up window. Copy the code in a notepad and store it on desktop and drag and drop it (from Windows explorer) on to the pop-up box and the debug mode will be on! So, enjoy debugging with ease....
Continue Reading This Article
Enjoy this article as well as all of our content, including E-Guides, news, tips and more.
By submitting you agree to receive email communications from TechTarget and its partners. Privacy Policy Terms of Use.
The code is
There is one more technique to do the same....(debugging the popup screen) Generate a GUI short cut (using the Icon next to create new session icon in any SAP screen) in desktop. While creating, set the properties as follows...
System data:
Description = <select the server from the list box - which appears similar to logon pad>
System id = <system id - for example SAP04 for 555 client>
Type = System command (select from list box)
Command = /H
Title = <any title>
Now the shortcut icon is generated in the desktop. You can do a similar drag and drop (as did for the text file) of the short cut icon on the popup window to invoke the debugger.
Dig deeper on SAP ABAP
Enjoy the benefits of Pro+ membership, learn more and join.

subset: commoncrawl


text:
Supporting Arthur Silber |
Written by Chris Floyd |
Wednesday, 24 February 2010 11:06 |
Arthur Silber has surfaced briefly, to bring word that he is still with us -- which is great news -- but also that he is still suffering horribly from very serious health issues. As we've often noted here before, Arthur's blog is his sole means of support, and thus his long, illness-induced silences inevitably cut deeply into his traffic, and his contributions -- and precisely when support is most urgently needed. It's a vicious cycle, so if you have any cash to spare to help break it, head on over to Arthur's place and lay some coinage on him. |


text:
Rutgers University-Newark Location
200 University Avenue
Newark, NJ 07102
Biomedical and Health Sciences at Newark Location
5 Bruce Street
Newark, NJ 07102
For an Emergency
(Police, Fire, Medical)
Dial 9-1-1
Emergency Numbers
From a University Phone
Obtain an outside line, then dial 9-1-1
Non-Emergency Numbers
Rutgers University-Camden: 856-225-6111
Rutgers Biomedical and Health Sciences at Newark:
Rutgers University-Newark:
Rutgers University-New Brunswick:
Get Emergency Alerts on Your Cell Phone
During emergencies, accurate information is important. Rutgers
Students, faculty and staff can receive up-to-date emergency information
conveniently via cell phone text message. To register, update your emergency-notification
information (Rutgers NetID Required).


text:
Processing Time - Orders typically ship in 2-5 business days. Transit via UPS Ground can take up to 6 business days. Braided and custom-made products may take 2 to 3 weeks for delivery.
Free Shipping to Contiguous United States - We do not ship to Alaska, Hawaii or the Caribbean Islands at this time.
Oversized items - Orders that ship freight may take up to 2 weeks from shipment date to be delivered. You will be contacted by the trucking company to schedule a delivery appointment.
Shipping to Canada - Orders shipping to Canada will be subject to a 15% shipping surcharge fee. The shipping surcharge does not cover duties, customs, taxes or brokerage fees which may be charged to you by the shipping courier at time of delivery. At this time we are not shipping to Yukon and the Northwest Territories in Canada.
Pin It | Houzz |
St. Croix Trading Traditions Paradise PT32 Black Rug
Item #: 332PT32-P Add to Wishlist
Description: The Persian Tufted Collection is hand tufted in centuries old traditional designs using blended New Zealand wool. Each rug is hand made by talented artisans of Northern India and will show beautifully for years. Transitional inspired Paradise rug has grandly scaled blooming flowers of sage, salmon, chocolate, and tan linked together by petite vines. Featuring a black background, the Paradise rug is tufted by hand of wool and finished with a cotton backing. Dusty gold border finish the design of this deep piled soft rug. This rug is a versatile, stylish, and environmentally conscientious choice as it is made from 100% natural fibers.
- Collection: Traditions
- Brand: St. Croix Trading
- Material: 100% Wool
- Weave: Hand Tufted
- Styles: Traditional Rugs Country & Floral Rugs
- Origin: India
- Available in the following sizes: 5' x 8', 8' x 11', 6' Round, 8' Round, 2' 6'' x 8', 2' 6'' x 12' and 6' Octagon
- Clean & Care: Vacuum regularly as new wool rugs can shed yarn fibers for up to three months. Avoid direct and continuous exposure to sunlight. Do not pull loose ends, clip them with scissors to remove. Clean liquid spills immediately by blotting with cloth or sponge. For hard to remove stains, professional rug cleaning is recommended.
This is a fabulous rug. I bought the octagon shape and it is such a plush rug. I love it.
RECOMMENDED: Yes, I would recommend this to a friend.This is a beautiful rug. It is thick and the colors are just as they appear in the picture. I am very happy with the purchase of this rug. It did not take long at all to receive. I will definitely be ordering again from this company.
RECOMMENDED: Yes, I would recommend this to a friend.This rug is beautiful and very good quality. It took no time at all to receive it. I would definitely order from Rugs USA again.
RECOMMENDED: Yes, I would recommend this to a friend.Fill out the information below.


text:
Question: Can I renew my library books without coming into or calling the Library?
Answer: Yes, if the books are not overdue, and if you have not already reached your maximum number of renewals. This can be done at any time using an internet accessible computer. Please follow these simple instructions:
Logging Into Your Library Account
Step 1: Click on "login" tab on top right of screen Step 2: Select "B Number" as your login option Step 3: Enter your B Number in the Id field. Step 4: Type in your last name in the box marked "Last name" Step 5: Click on "login"
You will be automatically taken back to the main search page
Step 6: Account information can be accessed through the bottom tabs. You will be able to see if you have any blocks, what you have checked out, if items are overdue, and the ability to renew items. You will also be able to place a Hold or request an item Callslip on library materials while logged into your account.
Important: Always "logout" of your account. Never leave your personal information open on a public computer. Check your account often to avoid late fees.
To log into your library account click the link below.
Voyager Online Catalog


text:
This month's Pinot Noir Wine Club Series selection comes from one of the most spectacular wine growing sites in the world the dramatic lakefront terraces of Bendigo Station in the high country of New Zealand's Central Otago region. Here, Misha's Vineyard, even in its relatively short life span, has built a solid reputation as one of New Zealand's top wine producers.
Misha's Vineyard was founded by Misha and Andy Wilkinson in 2004 out of a desire to work together and create a new lifestyle doing what they're most passionate about - wine!Misha and Andy had lived in Singapore for 16 years prior, both incredibly successful in their own right with high flying corporate careers. Misha was an international marketing specialist for a variety of companies including Intel and Dell Computer, while Andy held a remarkable 30+ year career in Information Technology. Although very successful, they found that the corporate world didn't have a lot of return in terms of long term satisfaction, and they both yearned to get something more out of life.
In 2001, Misha and Andy followed their hearts, returned to Andy's homeland in Central Otago, New Zealand, and began the foundation of creating Misha's Vineyard. After nearly two years of visiting potential vineyard sites, the couple finally found what they had been looking for in Central Otago's Bendigo Station. This land was steeped in history, officially named back in the late 1800s by Chinese immigrants who joined the Gold Rush in Central Otago, as many had in California, Australia, and elsewhere. The neatly stacked gold tailings in the gullies are the remnants of their alluvial mining and the crumbling remains of stone miners' cottages are evidence of a tough existence. This rugged land, although part of an extreme environment, also showed great potential for growing world-class fruit. Misha and Andy hoped it would once again produce riches - the 'new gold' - in the form of Pinot Noir. Finding this perfect location on which to establish Misha's Vineyard was the first milestone in their journey since the selection of a site is the single most important decision for any vineyard.
On November 8th, 2004, the Wilkinsons planted the first 25 acres of Misha's Vineyard Pinot Noir. The following year, they planted an additional 30 acres (Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc), and in 2007 another 10 acres - and they haven't finished yet!
To make exceptional wines from Misha's Vineyard's new plantings, they needed an exceptional winemaker. Internationally renowned Oliver "Olly" Masters, after just one visit to the vineyard, joined the Misha's Vineyard team with great enthusiasm. He crafted the first commercial Misha's Vineyard vintage in 2008 - a Pinot Noir named 'The High Note.'
Misha had grown up in Australia with a theatrical family and spent many years watching her mother sing opera. This influence, along with her own experience working in marketing roles for the Sydney Opera House and then later London's Royal Opera House, prompted the theatrical names for each of Misha's Vineyard's wines. 'The High Note' Pinot Noir is a direct dedication to Misha's mother, and a symbol of the winery's high point - their best effort, and ultimately what the winery is all about. Other wine names in the portfolio include 'Limelight,' 'The Starlet,' and 'Lyric.'
It's also interesting to note how Misha and Andy have embraced the Chinese history of their Central Otago-Bendigo Station region. In Chinese culture, the number "8" is considered the luckiest of numbers, representing prosperity and good fortune, and Misha's Vineyard continues to find the number 8 cropping up with uncanny regularity. The vineyard is located on State Highway 8, just 8 kilometers from the nearest town of Cromwell. On the vineyard, 8 clones of Pinot Noir have been planted in two row directions - 288° on the slopes and lakefront terrace, and 341° (adding up to 8) on the higher terraces. The first commercial vintage from Misha's Vineyard was 2008 and there are 8 wines in the portfolio.
To celebrate this phenomenon and culture, the team placed a Chinese coin beneath their first 8 planted vines to symbolically return the 'old gold' to the ground and bring luck for the 'new gold' - Misha's Pinot Noir.
Since Misha's Vineyard's initial release, the response from New Zealand and the world has been simply incredible. UK Decanter magazine has named Misha's Vineyard One of New Zealand's Top 20 Producers, and most of Misha's Vineyard's wines have garnered 90+ scores from international wine critics. To say this new family winery has been a success is a great understatement.
It is already a world-class winery that many internationally hope to emulate.
Misha's Vineyard - Central Otago
Located in one of the leading new world wine producing countries
Olly Masters - Winemaker
Internationally renowned winemaker Olly Masters is the winemaker for Misha's Vineyard. Forging some of New Zealand's most consistently fine Pinot Noir over the past decade, Olly has built a reputation as one of New Zealand's leading winemakers and wine judges.
Olly began his winemaking career in Martinborough in 1989 and also spent time in Hawkes Bay and Burgundy before joining Ata Rangi Vineyard (Martinborough) in 1994 as a winemaker/viticulturist. During his time there, Ata Rangi was awarded the Champion Pinot Noir on three occasions at the prestigious International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. In addition to winemaking, Olly serves as a senior wine judge at New Zealand's major national competitions and is also a regular panelist for Cuisine magazine.
Working at Misha's Vineyard, Olly makes his Central Otago 'debut' and has already proven his undeniable winemaking talent, industry knowledge, and personal affinity for Pinot Noir. His goal at Misha's Vineyard is to create a repertoire of elegant cool climate wines that match some of the more subtle and exotic food flavors of the world. He also strives to make wines that are authentic - speaking clearly about their origin.
About The Region
Most descriptions of Central Otago, New Zealand would leave you wondering why on earth people would plant grapes here. It's the world's most southerly and New Zealand's highest wine growing region with extreme conditions to say the least. This is a place of extraordinary contrasts with craggy bare mountains, massive schist rock torrs, and gorges carved by raging rivers, but also spectacular glassy lakes, rolling green farmlands and deep valleys of orchards producing some of the country's best stone fruits. It is also home to some of New Zealand's finest Merino wool production. Although a challenging environment, Central Otago has become New Zealand's fastest growing wine region with leading international wine critics raving about its wines.
Misha's Vineyard is one of the warmest sites in the region, stretching from 680 to 1,200 feet above sea level on gently sloping terraces, with various soils and meso-climates, and poised just above Lake Dunstan. It is 100% certified sustainably farmed and has produced award-winning fruit since the inaugural harvest.
Braised Lamb Shoulder
1 lamb shoulder (3-5 lbs.), boned and tied Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
3 Tbs. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
2 small onions, finely chopped
3 sprigs fresh rosemary finely chopped
3 sprigs fresh thyme leaves finely chopped
1 pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1 pinch of ground clove
1 bottle dry red wine
1 cup whole canned crushed plum tomatoes
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Season lamb all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 Tbs. oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Add lamb shoulder, and cook, turning occasionally, until lamb is browned all over, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove lamb; set aside. Pour out an excess oil, and discard. Add remaining Tbs. oil and heat over medium-high heat. Stir in garlic, celery, carrot, onion, herbs, nutmeg, and cloves. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 1 minute.
Return lamb to Dutch oven. Add wine and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, cover, and transfer to the oven. Cook until fork-tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.
Remove from oven. Transfer lamb to a platter, and keep warm. Make sauce: Place the Dutch oven over low heat, and cook the liquid until it has reduced and thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove twine from lamb, and slice; serve with sauce.
Rosemary Rubbed Salmon with Roasted Potatoes & Parsnips
1 1/2 cups loosely packed fresh rosemary leaves
4 tsp. coarse kosher salt
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
6 Tbs. olive oil, divided
1 lb. red-skinned potatoes, cut into 3/4 inch pieces
1 lb. parsnips, peeled, cut into 3/4" pieces
1 3 3/4-pound whole side of salmon with skin
1 lb. crimini mushrooms,chopped
Assorted salad greens
1/3 cup Pinot Noir
Blend rosemary, salt, and pepper in processor until finely chopped.
With machine running, gradually add 4 Tbs. oil; process to coarse paste. Position 1 rack in top third and 1 rack in bottom third of oven; preheat to 450 degrees. Toss potatoes, parsnips, 2 Tbs. oil, and 3 Tbs. rosemary mixture in large bowl. Transfer vegetable mixture to rimmed baking sheet, arranging in even layer. Roast vegetables on lower rack 20 min.
Line large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Place salmon, skin side down, on sheet. Spread with remaining rosemary mixture. Toss mushrooms with vegetable mixture. Return vegetable mixture to lower rack; place salmon on upper rack. Roast salmon until just opaque in center and vegetables until tender, about 20 minutes.
Line platter with salad greens; place salmon on top of greens. Transfer vegetables to serving bowl. Place vegetable baking sheet over 2 burners on high heat. Add wine and bring to boil, scraping up browned bits. Drizzle juices over salmon.


text:
My pal Stella* is going through a terrible breakup with a horrible man. Like most of us, Stella knows how to deal with their split (time, wine, chocolate, more wine, more time), but she was concerned about the bigger picture. Why had she gotten herself mixed up with this jackass in the first place? Or the moron before him? Or the cad prior to that one?
Being a sensible lady, Stella called her old therapist in order to get some perspective and guidance. Surely a licensed professional would have some clue.
Sure enough, she did. After giving my friend a dose of very tough love, Ms. Shrinky Dink gave her a list of questions to ask the next man she considers dating. According to the good doctor, the answers will tell her everything she needs to know before getting in too deep. Keep reading »


text:
Off-duty Chicago police officer killed in crash on Dan Ryan
BY JON SEIDEL Staff Reporter July 20, 2014 3:06PM
Article Extras
Updated: August 22, 2014 6:22AM
An off-duty Chicago Police officer was killed in a crash Sunday afternoon on the Dan Ryan Expy., Illinois State Police said.
The Chicago Police Department identified the officer Sunday night as Probationary Police Officer Tito M. Rodriguez, 28, who had been with the department since May 2013.
"We are truly saddened by the loss of Officer Tito Rodriguez who perished in today's tragic accident," Chicago Police Supt. Garry McCarthy said in a written statement. "On behalf of the entire Chicago Police Department, our thoughts and prayers are with his family during this difficult time. Whenever we lose one of our own, it has an effect on each of us, and we will be sure to honor Officer Rodriguez's memory and spirit appropriately."
A member of Rodriguez's family declined to comment.
The officer was riding a motorcycle south on the Dan Ryan near 71st Street when he was hit by another vehicle about 2:15 p.m., according to state police. They said Rodriguez was not wearing a helmet.
The crash was initially reported as a hit-and-run, but officials later said the other driver involved in the accident did remain on the scene.
State police identified the other driver as Dennis Anderson, 50, of Chicago. According to state police, Anderson was driving a red 2007 Pontiac coupe and was trying to change lanes to avoid missing the 71st Street exit when the Pontiac cut off the motorcyclist.
The officer couldn't avoid the Pontiac and collided with the vehicle, police said. Anderson was charged with improper lane usage and having no valid insurance.
State police said the officer was dead at the scene. Red tape marked the site as cars crawled by on the expressway. People also looked down from the sidewalks of the streets above, and a few Chicago police officers joined them there.
Contributing: Sun-Times Media Wire
Twitter: @SeidelContent


text:
Finding a school that suits your needs and interests is an important undertaking. We are here to answer any questions you might have about Western Reserve Academy.
Please contact us to schedule a campus visit today, as well as to find out about the application process, financial aid and scholarships, or any aspect of academic and residential life. The deadline for day student applications is December 1; for boarding students January 15. In addition to working in the Admission Office and living on campus, we also teach, coach, act as club leaders and serve as advisors and friends.
Sincerely,The Admission firstname.lastname@example.com


text:
Hang tight!
Recipe by KERYNE
"This is a great way to have a small scale turkey dinner anytime of the year. Serve with rice, noodles, or dressing. This recipe can also be increased very easily."
Hmm. None of these ingredients are on sale today.
Show ingredients on sale
Sort stores by
Save money at local stores when ingredients are on sale!
Watch video tips and tricks
3 stalks celery stalks, cut in thirds
3 turkey legs
6 tablespoons butter
salt to taste
1/2 cup water, or as needed
Good basic recipe. I added a few extra steps: I brined the legs with water & salt in fridge the night before. Rinsed the turkey legs. Added onions instead of celery into the legs. Mixed butter with sage, thyme, rosemary and bit of salt/ black pepper and put that between the meat/skin. I placed the legs in the pan, and sprinkled black pepper on top of skin. Poured 1 can of chicken broth in the pan and added baby carrots in the pan on the outside (love the taste), loosely cover with foil. And baked at 400 degrees instead of 350 (since I was using a small toaster oven - not the big oven, I was afraid that it wouldn't be hot enough) for 2 hours. About 1 hr 10 later, took out the foil and basted them occassionally. 30 min before taking it out, I sucked out a lot of the broth (using the baster) and used that for the gravy. This allowed for the skin to brown and crisp up. Served with potatoes, gravy and corn. It turned out good, meat broke off the bone cleanly and the skin was nicely brown and crispy. Next time I would probably keep the foil on there a bit longer and take it out a bit earlier probably 1 45 min instead of the full 2 hrs.
This was very easy to get together! I am not a fan of celery so I used onion instead and served this with brown rice in golden mushroom sauce. Yummmm
68 Ratings
Yum. Great, easy recipe. I'm a huge onion fan, so I sliced up a white onion and inserted the pieces into slices throughout the drumsticks. It worked really well. I roasted them for about 45 minutes covered, basting regularly, then uncovered them and turned every 20 minutes afterwards. Total time was about an hour and 45 minutes. Thanks for the post!
This is a great recipe for those who love dark meat and don't want to be bothered cooking a whole turkey! I use broth instead of water. I also then half way through the cooking time surround the turkey legs with savoury stuffing. I keep a lid on the roasting pan until the last little while as well. It keeps the meat juicier, and then I just brown it toward the end.
I could never get my turkey legs juicy and tender...and as tasty. Quick easy delicious! I also seasoned them with my own spices...GREAT!
Very EASY, Simple recipe. You can't go wrong. I have tried this recipe twice and both times, I must say, they came out DEE-LISH-US! The first time I did not have any celery so I used slivered onions instead (very tasty). But last Sunday when I did have some celery I tried it again and OMG! The flavor those stalks put out was superb! I thought that the celery would be mushy and it was not. If was soft yet still had a firm feel when eaten. I seasoned my turkey with salt, pepper, garlic powder and a little parsley (for color). My meat was tender, juicy and fell right off the bone! We had with greens (with turkey necks), mac-n-cheese and cornbread (I uploaded a pic. I had to stop eating in order to actually take the picture. LOL). I will DEFINITELY cook my turkey legs this way from now on. I've shared with friends and they too enjoyed the recipe. Reminds me of the food my grandmother would cook everyday. Thanks for sharing Keryne!!!!
This was super easy and it turned out absolutely fantastic! I did add a brush of BBQ sauce when it was done and served hot to the table. I will certainly make this again.
I love this because I can do as little or as much with it as I want depending on my moods. What I really enjoy being able to do though is throwing a bunch of veggies in around them in the covered dish while they're cooking so that I can make a soup out of the broth later. Absolutely wonderful, thank you!
* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet.
Roasted Turkey Legs
Serving Size: 1/3 of a recipe Servings Per Recipe: 3 Amount Per Serving ** Calories: 643 ** Calories from Fat: 332
Big, bold food is always the best play. Get the top recipes now.
How much jalapeno and bacon will it take to fuel YOUR fans?
Delicious recipes, party ideas, and cooking tips! Get a year of Allrecipes magazine for $7.99!
See how to make juicy roasted turkey with a savory gravy.
A moist, flavorful roast turkey rubbed with olive oil, garlic, and fresh herbs.
See how to roast a moist, tender turkey the mess-free way.


text:
Updated: 02/18/2014 11:43 AM
Created: 02/18/2014 11:33 AM WHEC.com
Two men are facing drug charges after an investigation by the Livingston County Sheriff's Office.
Deputies have arrested 31-year-old Byron Buza and 22-year-old Corey Rennie-Christensen for criminal possession of marijuana. According to deputies, during their investigation they learned that Buza and Rennie-Christensen were growing psychedelic mushrooms and were in possession of more than 16 ounces of marijuana.
Both were arraigned on the charges. Buza was released and Rennie-Christensen is being held on $3,000 bail.
Deputies say additional charges are pending.
News10NBC/WHEC-TV welcomes your opinion and interaction on our website, but please remember to keep it clean. If you're advertising for another business, being profane, vulgar or slanderous your post will be deleted. By commenting on this website, you agree that anything you post may be used, along with your name and profile picture, in accordance with our Privacy Policy and the license you have granted pursuant to our Terms of Use. Comments are not pre-screened before they posted.
Canandaigua woman arrested for altering price tags at Von Maur |
Teen sentenced for 2013 fatal shooting near Wilson Magnet H.S. |
Two-vehicle crash in Albion leaves three with serious injuries |
Deputies: Brothers arrested for grand larceny after stealing hard drives from Apple Store |
NYC mayor: Storm could be biggest ever to hit city |


text:
Your cart is empty!
Supplement Facts:
Other Ingredients:Dibasic calcium phosphate, stearic acid, modified cellulose gum and colloidal silicon dioxide.
1 to 2 tablets daily.
If you are pregnant, may become pregnant, or are breastfeeding, have a history of blood coagulation disorders, liver dysfunction, or are taking any prescription medications consult your health care professional before using this product.
Protegra Antioxidant Formula, Softgels - 60 Ea
Our Price:$8.11
Natrol Alpha lipoic acid 100 mg capsules - 100 ea
Our Price:$6.11
Health From The Sun Flax Oil with omega-3 - 8 oz
Our Price:$5.76
Natures bounty odorless fish oil 1200mg enteric coated softgels, 60 ea
Our Price:$7.61
Dr.Venessas Formulas High Blood Pressure Tablets - 60 ea
Our Price:$11.72
Product descriptions and images presented on the site are for representational use only and do not constitute or substitute for medical information from your health care or medical professional. Information on this site is provided for informational purposes only. You should read carefully all on correct product packaging and follow the instructions. If you have or suspect that you have a medical problem, promptly contact your health care provider. Information and statements regarding dietary supplements on this site have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease and may be for commercial. Image shown for reference only. Actual item you recieve may differ from shown.


text:
The rising visibility of trans, intersex, and genderqueer movements has led feminists—and, to a lesser extent, the rest of the world—to an increasing awareness that m and f are only the beginning of the story of gender identity. With the release of Whipping Girl: A Transsexual Woman on Sexism and the Scapegoating of Femininity, Julia Serano offers a perspective sorely needed, but up until now rarely heard: a transfeminine critique of both feminist and mainstream understandings of gender.
Receive a monthly B-Mail in your inbox for special updates, deals, and news from Bitch Media
Have an idea for the blog? Click here to contact us!


text:
Sam Mellinger College basketball needs some help — starting at the top The picture you get talking to people inside college basketball about their sport is they love the game, but hope it gets help. There are several simple shifts that could make the sport cleaner, faster, and better to watch (and play, for that matter). No. 11 Kansas wins 75-62 at 17th-ranked Texas Nino Williams leads K-State over Oklahoma St. 63-53 Mizzou misses two late free throws, loses 61-60 to Arkansas
Royals Becoming Yordano: A journey to the launch point of the Royals' rocket arm Yordano Ventura quit school at 14 and was working construction until his big break: a tryout that led to a spot in the Kansas City Royals' academy in the Dominican Republic. But even after making the major leagues and pitching in the World Series, Ventura wouldn't live anywhere else than Las Terrenas, his hometown, where he trained on the beach and swam in the ocean.
Local Death of Brandon Ellingson, who drowned in handcuffs, gets another look Special prosecutor Amanda Grellner acknowledged that she is reviewing the case after receiving new information. Four months ago, she declined to press charges against Missouri Highway Patrol trooper Anthony Piercy after a coroner's inquest found Brandon Ellingson's death in the Lake of the Ozarks to be an accident.
Star Magazine Shelter stories: Readers share their successful pet adoption tales About two months ago, the FYI section featured animals available for adoption at local shelters in its "12 Strays of Christmas" series. We wanted to hear from readers about their successful adoptions and the impact their four-legged family members have had on their lives. We were flooded with stories. Now, we're sharing some of our favorites. See more shelter success stories and share you own on Mingle.KansasCity.com
Gov. Sam Brownback's push to change Kansas Supreme Court seen as linked to school finance Sat 4:46 PM
Updated Jan. 20: Kansas City Crime Stoppers' Most Wanted Updated Jan. 20: This man is wanted for possession of dangerous drugs. If you have information about any of these fugitives, call the TIPS Hotline at 816-474-TIPS (816-474-8477), go to KCCrimeStoppers.com, or text TIP452 plus message and send to 274637. All calls are anonymous.
Kirksville substitute teacher scolds doctor, wife for daughter's lunch which included marshmallows, pickles
Chiefs Losses to Chiefs were turning points for Patriots, Seahawks on road to Super Bowl Defeats at Arrowhead Stadium proved to be the turning points for the Seattle Seahawks and New England Patriots in their run to Super Bowl XLIX, which is Feb. 1 in Glendale, Ariz. Kansas City beat Seattle 24-20 in November and routed the Patriots 41-14 in September.
Health Care Area medical workers see progress in the effort to eradicate Ebola in Africa The World Health Organization and other medical groups, pushing caution and vigilance, are far from declaring the epidemic over, but they note positive trends. Lenexa-based medical humanitarian group Heart to Heart International is under contract to operate an Ebola treatment unit in the Tappita area of Liberia until the end of April.
Local Grieving another loss, Thompson family declares: 'We have tremendous faith' Amy, the inspiration for Kansas City's Memorial Day run, died in 1989 after she was shot in the head three years earlier. Tricia, struck by a drunken driver in 1989, died Wednesday after 26 years of care by family, friends and nurses.
Back to Rockville Musician John Doe's legacy still evolving and growing "This Far," a double-vinyl release, became a way for the singer/songwriter, a member of the the legendary Los Angeles punk band X and a solo artist, to put his career in perspective. Doe performs Monday at Knuckleheads in Kansas City and Tuesday at the Bottleneck in Lawrence.
House & Home Brooklyn transplants' Olathe home is an architectural marvel of concrete and steel But to John and Cynthia Gillis, it's a geometric poem that tells the tale of a partnership that spans beyond four decades and into the tall grasses of a Kansas meadow. When construction began in April of 2013, neighbors thought the landowners were building a church.
Cindy Hoedel Not so long ago, 'free-range' parenting was the norm The fact that a Maryland couple is being investigated by Child Protective Services for letting their kids walk home by themselves from a park shows our society has taken legitimacy away from responsible parents who try to foster independence.
Cindy Hoedel Not so long ago, 'free-range' parenting was the norm The fact that a Maryland couple is being investigated by Child Protective Services for letting their kids walk home by themselves from a park shows our society has taken legitimacy away from responsible parents who try to foster independence.
Steve Rose Few people really understand this muddled budget crisis in Kansas What is occurring in the state is so confusing, very few understand what's going on. What everyone should know is the answer to this simple question: When Gov. Sam Brownback and the Kansas Legislature slashed income and business taxes at a magnitude unprecedented in state history, what exactly were they looking to accomplish?
For Pete's Sake Coincidence? Today's word of the day on 'Sesame Street' is inflate The word of the day in today's episode of "Sesame Street" was inflate. Was that a weird coincidence given the controversy surrounding Tom Brady and the Patriots. Or was it merely trolling? You decide.
Eyewitness From the archives: The Lathrop Building, 1943 A photo of a downtown building from The Kansas City Star's photo archives
Stargazing Brooke Shields posts scariest selfie ever Brooke Shields is one brave woman. We would never ever let someone see us with our mouth like this at the dentist – except, of course, the dentist. But Shields is a very good sport.


text:
A Geek's Confession
Review: Fluance XL Series Speaker System
Is it possible to achieve good sound quality and eye-pleasing aesthetics for a home theater system for under $800?
Read moreReview: Apple's New iPad Air
Apple's fifth-generation of iPad tablet, is the Apple iPad Air. Find out more about it
Read moreWearable Technology: Its Implications, Restrictions and Future
Wearable communication devices, especially smart watches, represent a hot market segment right now, but is it truly a new and emerging market, or has technology finally caught up to our active lifestyle?
Read morePrivacy, or the Lack Thereof
The concept of privacy today is far different from what it was 100, 50 or even 10 years ago. What does "privacy" mean today?
Read moreProtecting Yourself Against Cyber Threats
Should you be unplugging your computer, vowing to never make another purchase online, switching back to snail mail for your bills and lining your walls with aluminum foil?
Read more


text:
Follow-Up Postings:
use a qo panel from squared. |
With all those bends you are going to need pull boxes along the way. No more than 360Âş of bends between pull boxes. I would consider boring straight down through the slab and tunnelling the foot required under it for the conduit. You could even do it from inside the shed at an angle and come up inside the wall. |
- Posted by popcornhill (My Page) on Sun, Oct 31, 10 at 21:36
I don't know what you need to do it, but you did a great job of planning and taking pictures! And I agree with joed...go under that slab. |
- Posted by petey_racer (My Page) on Sun, Oct 31, 10 at 22:37
Smithy, at least you are consistent in your never ending quest to be f-ing annoying. |
This board is about electricity, not about the members, so I probably shouldn't say anything. Still, I think it's a good thing when young folks find something constructive - like electrical work - to focus on. I'm kind of sympathetic to Smithy as I started working on my own home's electrical system when I was only a few years older than he is now. I do wish he were a little more thoughtful, though, a little less quick to chime in. I'd have more respect for him if he read more and wrote less. I guess part of growing up is putting yourself in the other guy's shoes - learning when your input is helpful, and when it's just a distraction or annoyance. Forty plus years past Smithy, and I'm still working on that. Come to think of it, though, listening more and saying less is a pretty good strategy for most everyone regardless of age and occupation, isn't it? I'll shut up now. :) |
... I have several associates smithy's claimed age. On a good day, I even call them friends. One, who claims to know nothing about wiring, is a big help to me... another, who is obsessed with it, managed to screw up installing a low-voltage thermostat. |
- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Mon, Nov 1, 10 at 7:40
Now that we're done with the much needed smity-bashing. One thing not mentioned in the original post nor in the followups is that there appears to be more than one circuit here SO don't forget your "structure" (skid based or not) requires a grounding electrode system (e.g.,. ground rods). Don't forget wet rated conductors in the outdoor/underground parts. |
Yes, there will be two maybe three circuits in the subpanel. I figure if I or someone else wants to use it as a shop in the future, might as well just put a sub panel in. THWN conductors to the subpanel from 60A feeder breaker. 1 inch gray plastic conduit if I can get it at Depot/Lowes. I don't want to bore a 1.25" inch hole in the new slab if I can avoid it. Slab also has rebar in it. I forgot about the ground rod iisue. What length rod? What size ground wire to it? And how do I get it pounded down into hard clay with sandstone? So the ground from the feeder breaker goes to the subpanel. AND then the ground wire from the ground rod, goes to the ground bus on the sub panel too? |
it would be waaay cheaper to go to the supply house instead of l's or the hd. i dont even go to l's anymore. i go to fromm, and they have a much larger selection and many products l's doesnt carry. |
Can I just use a 6/3 w ground cable for the interior garage run from the panel to the exterior wall? Or does that line need to be in conduit once it comes down from ceiling height? |
off topic, but why do you have 2 40 space qo panels DIRECTLY NEXT TO EACH OTHER? at least you could have put one ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE HOUSE AND SAVED SOME 12/2. Btw, i think it all needs to be in conduit, but iam not sure. i personally would put it all in conduit. |
I did not build the house. You would have to ask the electrician who wired it 7 years ago. |
- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Mon, Nov 1, 10 at 22:28
You might of saved from 14-2, but you would have to buy some pretty hefty feeder wire to do it. |
If it isn't done already, I would want to anchor the shed to the slab if I were to run power to it. Just to help ensure some small inadvertant shift of the structure didn't cause a hazardous situation by stretching the feeder. |
would it be legal to use a 60a gfi breaker in the main panel to feed the subpanel? |
Yes, I thought about that as well. I am pondering how to best anchor it since it is up on 4x6 runners. I am going to run 1 1/4" gray pvc conduit from the brick and down underground and over to the shed. Is there a special way to attach the gray pvc to the subpanel?? Or do I just punch an appropriate knockout and use a pvc EL as the last point outside the shed? The ELs don't have any exterior threading for a nut of any kind like metal conduit. |
An LB body usually makes pulling easier. |
it think you would use a male thread adapter with your qo panel |
The male pvc threaded adapter would work. But I would need to surface mount the box instead of putting in between the studs. I stopped at Home Depot just to have a look at the various fittings again and there was a guy working there who actually knew the inventory well. Another way to hook up the pvc to the panel is to use a metal LB instead. It is threaded internally on both openings. So a male pvc adapter screws into the bottom which the pvc conduit can then slide into. For the panel connection, a metal threaded bushing clamps the panel between it and the LB. So I wouldn't have to move the panel out so far. Not sure which way I will go with it yet. Have to see how it pans out as I go along. The wood siding on the shed is only 1/2". Just open stud bays on the inside. So I can easily go either way with mounting the panel. I think surface mounting it on some plywood might be better. That way all the knockouts on the sides are not blocked by the studs. More flexibility with running wires then. |
This is what I have so far in materials: 1.25" gray pvc conduit and fittings for exterior/underground 60 amp breakers for main and sub #4 bare copper for ground rods Two 5/8" ground rods and direct burial connectors 125 amp Square D sub panel w/isolated neutral/ground #6 THWN wire(for entire run from feeder to sub) #10 THWN ground wire(for entire run from feeder to sub) Still need to get the 1" EMT for the run from the main panel, across ceiling and down opposite wall, somehow connecting up to the 1 1/4" pvc. |
Had to return the panel I got. Mistakenly got the "main lugs only" box which has no main breaker spot. My bad for not looking more carefully. Got some 1 inch EMT conduit, LBs and connectors. All stuff for inside the garage running from the main panel. This time round at the stores, nothing but hourly idiots who call other idiots and they all stand around scratching their heads wondering what you are talking about. Guy 1 doesn't know anything about electrical, yet is asking me what type of fitting I am looking for. Guy 1 calls guy 2 who also knows nothing about electrical and he wants the specific name of the fitting so he can read all the boxes and land on it. They stand around confused. Then guy 3 shows up, who works the aisle, by which time I found what I needed. Sometimes I just have to laugh. |
You'll get much better information, and a wider selection of parts, if you'll shop your local electrical jobbers. On balance, at least around here, the larger ones don't cost any more than the big box stores, and often are less. More importantly, their countermen also usually know what they're talking about. |
"I think surface mounting it on some plywood might be better. That way all the knockouts on the sides are not blocked by the studs. More flexibility with running wires then." Use 2x lumber so you can staple the NM down near the box as required. 1x splits and 3/4 in ply does not hold well |
this is why you go to the supply. at fromm, the guys at the counter are well educated, and things are cheaper:) the down side is they do not have sqd, so i have to go out to leesport for the panels:( |
Got the conduit run across the ceiling. Going to run it down the wall tomorrow. Found an interesting thing when I took the panel off the right side load center. There is a yellow jacketed romex 12/3 w ground that has bits of black electrical tape cut and put on it in a stripe pattern all the way down to the cut off end, which barely had tape covering it. Tested it, and sure enough, it's live and not connected to any breaker in that panel. Hmmmm. I taped up the end better and left it for now. Not sure how to trace that one in an attic full of yellow romex and blown in insulation. It is getting power from somewhere though. |
- Posted by mike_kaiser (My Page) on Thu, Nov 4, 10 at 4:52
I'd suggest that if you have a live wire that end be capped with the appropriately sized wire nut, not just electrical tape. I'm assuming it's the white (neutral) wire that's taped. Interesting to say the least and probably something worthy of additional investigation. With Romex it's common to use the white wire as current carrying conductor for something like a switch loop. Do the breakers the other wires are connected to tell you anything? |
I will have to check on it when I am done with the shed. The romex in question had just been cut off. The wires inside are actually pulled back into the outer jacket a bit, so I can't see anything other than their cut ends. Total length of this hot cable over 2 ft from where it enters the box in the upper left. It actually is coming in through a large opening that some of the original wiring was all fed through. I don't know. Rather odd. And the bits of black tape attached to it are cut and placed on the surface. If it were an electrician marking it, I would think he would just spiral wrap it instead of this cut and paste thing all the way down. I will flip the breakers in the other panel one by one and see if it kills power to that. If not, then I will do the same in the panel that it is in. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Thu, Nov 4, 10 at 11:57
Your EMT run is looking pretty good to these old eyes. Thumbs up for coming back to the forum as you solve the various problems too. FWIW, a couple of notes: 1. It may be water over the dam by now, but a main lug panel would have been fine for the shed, with two provisos: If you have six or fewer breakers (that is, if everything can be shut off with no more than six flicks of the wrist) code doesn't require a disconnect in the shed. Alternatively, you could back-feed a normal breaker in lieu of a main. (A backfed breaker serving as a building disconnect does, however, require a "hold down" kit.) All things considered, you're probably better off with a main breaker panel -- it's slightly safer and more straightforward for a DIYer and it's seldom appreciably more expensive. (Also, based on annecdotal feedback here, there may be some jursdictions that don't follow the "six disconnect" rule.) 2. As for earthing the shed panel, you're fine with those two ground rods and the #4 solid. (#6 would have been OK too, but no biggie.) Make sure that the two rods are at least 6' apart and that there are no splices in the #4 connecting to the panel ground bar. 3. Assuming you've decided to mount the box on 2-by rather than the shed sheathing (a good suggestion by Brick' in my estimation), you should be able to connect using all-PVC by running the conduit into the building using an L-box mounted on the outside somewhat lower than the box and then using another L-box or 90-degree corner EL inside the building. That's not an uncommon method and you could then use a PVC male end with a bushing to enter the box from below. **** Off-topic notes to Smithy: 1. Mounting two 200-amp panels side-by-side is very common with nominal 400-amp service (e.g., 360 amp or whatever). In fact, it's a rather standard installation and not unusual at all. 2. While your big box store may not have Square D products, every Home Despot or Lowes I've bought from in recent years (and that includes stores in Maine, Virginia, Maryland and California) HAS carried Square D products. I'm sure there are exceptions, however, since store product lines tend to be regionalized. Your ongoing Square D advocacy is getting very tiresome. Take a hint, man. 3. Yes, it would be legal to install a two-pole 60-amp GFCI breaker to feed the shed. But why pay extra for the privilege of having to trek from building to building to deal with a simple nuisance trip? And then have no non-GFCI'd power available at the outbuilding? IMO, this would be a poor use of resources (two-pole GFCI breakers are expensive!) that would serve only to increase confusion and limit future options at the shed panel. |
Thanks for the info. It always helps having experienced guys comment as the project is in progress. The new panel is a bit longer than the previous main lug one I returned. But I thought if I or anyone else down the road is going to use the shed as a workshop, might as well have the main breaker on it. Thankfully the local Ace here had one metal box remaining suitable for 1" EMT connectors. I am going to put that a few feet from the outside wall on the ceiling. And then just do a 90 down the wall. Going to drill through the exterior brick today for the 1 1/4" pvc. Hopefully that goes without a hitch. It will take a while since I don't have a core bit. Just going to use a regular drill and masonary bits. I already verified there are no 2x4 studs, electric, etc in the way where I will be drilling the exterior wall. Not sure how the pvc will all play out. Will have to dry fit it and see how I can maneuver it up around the concrete slab. Hoping the area next to the driveway where I will have to dig down about 20 inches will be free from chunks of concrete when they laid the driveway. |
wow..someone whose done there homework and wants to runs it correctly..great! the only thing I would suggest is upgrade the wiring and subpanel to 100amps. run #4/3 wire from the main to the sub. why? less voltage drop and provides more room for expansion. just a thought.. -dkenny |
I already bought the 6g wire and 10 ga ground. Both cut off spools. So I can't return it. The total run from the main panel to the sub panel is only going to be about 57 feet. |
6 awg is fine for up to 60a. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Thu, Nov 4, 10 at 18:50
If you put a 1 1/4" to 1" PVC reducing bushing in the PVC LB and connected it to a 1" threaded male connector, that oughta work out well. You'd need a couple of inches of 1" PVC pipe to glue it up, though. (Sometimes it's frustrating when you only need a short piece, eh? Maybe someone at an electrical supply house or a working job site will toss you a scrap so you don't have to buy more of the 1" than you need.) **** [BTW, a 60-amp subpanel seems more than adequate for that small shed -- even if you do want to add a welder. And the voltage drop over that 57 run is negligible.] |
Good idea. Yes, just need a short 4 or 5 inch piece for inside the wall cavity. I do have some schedule 40 plumbing pvc in 1". It is such a short distance and inside the wall, I don't see any reason I couldn't just use that. |
Code. There's a couple other threads touching this subject. Plumbing pipe for conduit is a no-no. |
But what is the intent of the code in this case? Is it just a visual thing? In which case, I can easily spray the white pvc gray so it matches. I don't see from a physical protection standpoint, that a 5 inch piece of sch 40 plumbing pvc is going to provide less protection inside the wall. But if the code says I have to go spend $3 on a ten foot length of gray pvc in the electrical aisle, use a 5 inch section of it and then toss the rest in a landfill, that seems logical. |
lol... I don't think it makes sense either so don't ask me to defend it. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Fri, Nov 5, 10 at 11:14
"I don't think it makes sense either so don't ask me to defend it." Me neither. But since you're well on the road to doing this job right, I'd bite the bullet, spend the three-dollar bill and use the right stuff. (It's the landfill part -- not the cost -- that sticks in my craw too.) |
that is the code for you. |
I decided to order a 2" dry cut core bit that attaches to a standard angle grinder to go through that brick. It should make quick work of it. Pricey bits though. Meanwhile, nice cool day to do some hand digging with an adz. I decided to dig away from the edge of the driveway. I just did not want to risk running into lots of chunks of concrete from back when they poured the drive. Things I learned so far with digging. Digging as a kid...fun. Took me 2 1/2 hours to dig 12 feet. About 12 feet to go. Breaking for lunch. |
If you had used rigid or intermediate metallic conduit you could have dug only 6 inches deep (plus a little more for the conduit diameter). |
dont forget to ground the box. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Fri, Nov 5, 10 at 18:26
"dont forget to ground the box." Out of the mouths of babes....may come the origins of $hit$torms. A metal box used in an EMT run where the conductors are neither spliced or terminated -- where they merely pass through intact -- does not require additional EG bonding. Now for the $hit$torm. Some electricians would nevertheless connect the EG wire to the box; others would not. For some, it's a matter of religion. But, religion or not, code doesn't require bonding above and beyond that provided by the EMT in this situation. |
After all that digging, I think next time rigid conduit sounds like a winner. I didn't get my line exactly straight, but the pvc I am sure will be bendy enough to curve a bit. I will sleep good tonight. |
i know emt is an acceptible egc, i ground the box, anyway. what if one of the locknuts comes loose? what if the conduits comes loose? safety first? what is an extra buck or two? |
"what if one of the locknuts comes loose? what if the conduits comes loose? safety first? what is an extra buck or two?" What if the fastener for the egc comes loose? If the fasteners are correctly tightened they rarely come loose. The loose pones were not installed correctly to start with. |
i ground everything, including the kitchen sink. (no joke) |
"i ground everything, including the kitchen sink. (no joke)" What is going to energize the kitchen sin? The GD is already grounded. |
- Posted by ontariojer (My Page) on Sat, Nov 6, 10 at 13:40
I ground my kitchen sink too. I like to use 1/2" copper. Normally I use 2 grounds- I find it balances better. Is that why you do it smithy? |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Sat, Nov 6, 10 at 13:55
"Digging as a kid...fun. Digging as an adult...not so fun." This is precisely the reason I decided to divorce my ex-wife instead of burying her in the back yard. :-) Seriously though, that trench looks perfectly servicable to me. **** Grounding. What an interesting hobby. [In the unlikely event that conduit fittings come loose, nothing much happens of consequence. That's because, unless you take a fire ax to the installation or something like that, the unbroken insulated wiring still remains intact and there is no fault. Where, as here, the box is basically serving as a pull box (i.e., a conduit body), with no splices, terminations or devices, it represents essentially the same risk as a coupling, an LB or a pull box. With that in mind, Smithy, has it been your routine practice on, say, your last few dozen EMT conduit installations to drill and tap all metal conduit bodies, install ground screws and connect an EGC at each juncture? And what about the tube segments? What if both ends become loose? Should each piece of tubing be attached to an EGC? I'd argue that splicing the EGC or skinning it to loop around a ground screw may, in fact, be more fault prone than having a clean uninterupted pull. YMMV.] |
Ran into a slight issue with concrete next to the house. I chipped out the easier bits, but what is left is a solid 8 inch thick or so chunk. It doesn't look that thick in the photo, but that hole underneath only goes in a short distance and it's solid concrete all the way down. I don't want to risk damaging the foundation there, so the only option is to just run the pvc down to it and across the top, and then down into the trench. |
- Posted by spencer_electrician (My Page) on Sat, Nov 6, 10 at 16:15
Hate to say that last bit at the shed with PVC wrapping the footing may not be ideal. Just thinking it is somewhat vulnerable to physical damage. Might want to come up into a metal LB and then up into the shed with another metal LB with rigid in between. You would then have to take metal all the way into the panel to have the metallic section bonded to ground. This might be overkill but having that sch 40, 90 degree bend floating out there just looks like it may get smashed some day. If the rest of the run is straight, you might be able to double 90 around that house footing. You can have up to 360 degrees in bends between pull points, (it will get tough to pull however!). Might adjust the trench to come from the house diagonally to reduce one 90 degree bend to a 45 degree bend. A long sweep 90 would also make the pulling easier. |
- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Sat, Nov 6, 10 at 16:36
I can't read (and really don't even see) the conduit coming up out of the ground, but that looks like an area subject to physical damage and requires sched 80 conduit if you're using PVC. |
I suppose "subject to physical damage" is a bit open to interpretation as are many other things with the code. Though I can see that something could get dropped on the LB accidentally and bust it. I can use a metal one there. I don't see a problem using the schedule 40 from a metal LB up the shed exterior to a plastic LB going into the panel. I don't think the round pipe would be easily damaged unless someone intentionally made an effort. I have already glued up the two ten foot straight sections for the trench. Got the panel located and fitted. After a while this gets to be like asking 20 chefs how to bake a chocolate cake. |
you used a square d panel, right? dont forget the neutral and groundd have to be seperated. for added safety, i would use a gfi on the security cam recs. i would run the wires before gluing the end @ the house |
Yes, SQ D panel. The panels come with a bonding screw which I am not using. I will have to add a separate ground bus on this panel, as it does not come with one. Interestingly, the panel I returned did come with a separate ground bar. It was a smaller panel and probably designed to be used as a sub. Should I just pull each wire separately? Or try two at a time? (three 6ga, one 10ga). |
i think you would do them all at the same time, but i am not sure. |
Pull all the conductors at the same time. You did purchase stranded wire in each size? Solid is a real PITA to pill through ANY bends. Some pulling lube can also help. |
Yes, I did buy stranded. What can be used for pulling lube? |
If I use a metal LB at the edge of the slab, do I need to ground it? It will be located between two pvc runs of conduit. But no splices planned there. Just using as a pull point. I know using rigid metal conduit from that point to the panel would do the job. But I am trying to use the pvc I already have on hand. |
Your electrical jobber will have pulling lube in a plastic squeeze bottle. It looks and feels a lot like KY jelly (I'm not kidding). |
- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Sun, Nov 7, 10 at 13:14
I'm taking about the stuff emerging from the grade. Around here that's subject to physical damage and requires something rated for that which Sched 40 is not. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Sun, Nov 7, 10 at 13:18
When there isn't a supply of lube around, some folks use a 50-50 solution of diluted dish soap. It works nearly as well as store-bought lube. (Use more lube at the beginning than at the end, rather than waiting for the pull to get hard and then trying to lube.) As for Smithy's suggestion to pull wires and glue later, I wouldn't recommend it. PVC cement "melts" the plastic in order to achieve what amounts to a "weld". It can also eat through conductor insulation. For that reason, you'd be well-advised to glue up the conduit run first and pull later, IMHO. Where I absolutely have to glue a joint with the wires already in it, I wrap a sleeve of thin cardboard around the wires at the joint to keep seeping cement from damaging the insultation. As for pulling the wires, are you putting a messenger rope or stout twine in your conduit as you lay it? There's at least a couple of approaches. One is to put a messenger in as you assemble the conduit joints using either a fish tape or a length of stiff solid wire. The other is to attach your cord to a puffed-up plastic bag and suck the cord through the conduit using a vacuum cleaner. Most of the time this works like a champ although the method does not work well if there are any sharp bends. (Also, although most electrical contractors have fish tapes long enough to do this pull without a messenger, most DIYers don't. YMMV.) All things considered, pre-running the messenger may be the best choice in your case. Your run of 3 #6s and a #10 through 1 1/4" conduit shouldn't be that difficult although some lube (or soap) will definitely help. Also, it helps if you have one person pushing, lubing, and keeping the wires unkinked and parallel while another person pulls. |
I have not made the final EMT run down inside of the garage yet. So I can still get a piece of parachute cord sucked through it. I do have a fish tape, but only about 20 ft. Waiting on delivery of the core bit to cut the brick. Then I will finish off the garage side and move along to getting all the gray pvc lined up and down in the trench. So today I am putting in plastic heavy duty boxes inside the shed and will be running some cable to the various spots. Not sure whether to staple it to the surface of the studs or drill holes in them. I am not putting any drywall or such in there. No insulation, but will be adding a radiant barrier in between all the studs to help reduce summer heat gain. |
l's has lube, from ideal. |
Tempting as it is, as I understand it, the code prohibits assembling a raceway around wires. They are to be pulled through a completely assembled raceway. However, there's no reason you can't "glue as you go" with a messenger, as Tom suggests. I've used steel wire for this purpose, I think about #18. |
please use metal boxes. they look more proffessional, especially with mc or bx. |
... the inspector is going to come look at your assembled system. I doubt he's going to ask for a video of you assembling it, so I'm not sure "assembling a raceway around wires" constitutes a truly enforceable code. I've done it. It works. Sometimes it's easier. Sometimes it's not. If the wire is lubed and parallel, and you've got a substantial and solid 'messenger' to pull it with, pulling through the whole run is actually sometimes easier - or at least quicker - than mucking around with it in sections. |
- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Mon, Nov 8, 10 at 8:07
Nothing wrong with PVC, ignore smitty. I've never seen plastic corrode (though it does get brittle when exposed to sunlight at times). Better to install sufficient pull points (LB's or other boxes) and use LARGER than the strictly minimum required conduit size. Makes life easier. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Mon, Nov 8, 10 at 9:03
I'm sure others might tackle this other ways, but given the rather large number of 90's in this run, I'd probably opt to do this pull "middle-out", in two operations. That is, I'd begin at the PVC LB on the outside of the garage and pull roughly half the wire (i.e., however much it takes) into the box in the shed. Then I'd poke the remainder of the wire through the wall into the garage and do a second pull from the metal LB on the inside garage wall into the main panel. (Or vice-versa...the EMT first and then the PVC...doesn't really matter.) This approach has the virtue of more or less halving the length of any single pull and removing the two sharpest turns (the two closely linked LB's) from the middle of a single pull. Also, those LBs are at convenient working locations. That is, you can do all the pushing and pulling with your feet on the ground rather than up on a stepladder or with one foot in a ditch. BTW, I doubt you'll need to use the 4 11/16 metal box on the ceiling at all. My bet is that the pull from the LB on the inside wall into the main panel will be a piece of cake. |
Yes, I thought the same thing about pulling the wires in two stages. Tom, Brickeye, Ron...What are your thoughts on that pvc coming up above grade at the shed slab? Should I just bite the bullet and use 1 1/4" RMC vertically coming up to a metal LB at the slab edge, over to a 90 and up to another metal LB to the panel in the shed?? If so, can I just get threadless connectors for all the attach points. I have no pipe threading stuff at all. |
''Nothing wrong with PVC, ignore smitty. I've never seen plastic corrode (though it does get brittle when exposed to sunlight at times). '' I was talking about inside receptacle and switch boxes. a 4x4 box looks way better than a plastic box, in my opinion. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Mon, Nov 8, 10 at 19:25
"Tom, Brickeye, Ron...What are your thoughts on that pvc coming up above grade at the shed slab? Should I just bite the bullet and use 1 1/4" RMC vertically coming up to a metal LB at the slab edge, over to a 90 and up to another metal LB to the panel in the shed?? If so, can I just get threadless connectors for all the attach points. I have no pipe threading stuff at all." To be honest with ya, Ohmmm, I've been dodging this issue since others have been weighing in on the physical protection implications of that part of your design. If I had to choose a bullet to bite, I'd still opt for drilling downward though the slab and getting rid of the whole can of worms associated with going up and over the slab. In addition to the physical protection problems, to me, it just screams "trip on me" and "kluge". I know you said you didn't want to mess with going through the slab but, sorry...There! I've said it. You have a core bit on the way, right? **** OK, so let's say that doesn't work for ya. The right way to do rigid metal conduit, IMhO, is to thread and fit it. (That's all too easy for me to say since I do happen to have large taps and dies.) If you do decide go that way, you might be able to find someone in the Home Despot plumbing department to help. If you tell 'em a few good semi-off-color jokes :-) and seem like a good guy (no reason to think otherwise), and it isn't a busy Saturday, you may find a good fellow who'll cut you some threads (assuming you've got your act together and have accurately measured your pieces in advance). |
''Then I was pondering the idea of adding another exterior receptacle below the panel. Maybe set it up with 8ga wire and a 50 amp breaker, so it could be used for welding out on the driveway'' you need 6 awg for 50a. use a 4 cond receptacle so you can plug in a travel trailer. I THINK THOSE BLUE PLASTIC BOXES LOOK VERY UNPROFESSIONAL. |
- Posted by spencer_electrician (My Page) on Mon, Nov 8, 10 at 20:31
Unfortunately homeowners don't have much choice since all the home stores carry blue plastic. I am stuck on a stubborn assumption that blue is a clue that DIY work was done. I just have never found a professional installation that used them. 75% of time when I open up a blue box, I find the grounds twisted with no wire nut, and the 2 inch long blacks and whites held together with yellow wire nuts with gobs of black tape. <-- Leads to my hatred of them! lol. Fiberglass seems to be the choice of almost all pros in residential work. Now in shed however, I suppose the fiberglass could get smashed easier than plastic. This installation would have been a good candidate for 4x4 metal with exposed work GFCI or GFCI quad covers. Sorry to beat this post to death with side discussion (: |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Mon, Nov 8, 10 at 20:48
"''Then I was pondering the idea of adding another exterior receptacle below the panel. Maybe set it up with 8ga wire and a 50 amp breaker, so it could be used for welding out on the driveway'' Smithy wrote: "you need 6 awg for 50a." As usual, Smithy, you are 100% wrong. In the first place, #8 THHN, with all related parts and terminations rated in the 75 degree column, is 50-amp capable. But that's almost beside the point. Welders fall under a specific NEC article that links wire size to duty cycle of the welder. Given the duty-cycle consideration, believe it or not, #10AWG would actually be sufficient for most stick welders. You have NOOOOO idea what you are talking about. Please, please, stop giving incompetant advice. Now! |
I have 4x4 boxes with mc in my shed. |
Yes, core bit is on order. But, not the heavier duty type that can cut through rebar too. So no, not drilling the slab. Trip hazard or not, conduit is wrapping around the slab. Certainly won't be the first time electrical has had to be routed around things. The entire house was wired with those "unprofessional" blue boxes. So I guess I need to redo the whole house to make it look good. Standard pipe thread is on the RMC then? |
"Standard pipe thread is on the RMC then? " IPT, Iron Pipe Thread. The same as water and other threaded pipe. |
- Posted by weedmeister (My Page) on Tue, Nov 9, 10 at 9:08
My un-official, good-for-nothing opinion is that you should change out the blue boxes in the shed for metal. There might not be a requirement for it but I think it would be better since they are exposed. Unless you intend to drywall the shed. I suppose the same argument could be made that you should use armored/metallic cable rather than Romex, but I think it's too late for that. As to the two 90* outdoor bends, one will be pretty much buried. The one next to the shed I would make metal. I could just see someone hitting that with a weedeater or lawnmower, or driving over it. Oh, and I commend you for providing all the pictures. keep it up. |
Slide the shed over to the edge of the slab. (you can always find 'stuff' to pile on the other side, like firewood). |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Wed, Nov 10, 10 at 19:21
"There is a 50amp double on bottom. Going to wire that up for a 240 recept below the panel. I currently have my table saw set up for 240, so I could roll it out on the driveway and plug it in there if I want. And the recept can handle a welder too if need be. Though with so many 240 receptacle options, it is unlikely that my current 240 plug on the saw would match any welders plugs." I'm not sold on your idea of installing one 240V receptacle to serve both your table saw and your welder. Not all 240V circuits are the same and that's precisely why the plugs are different. Just shooting from the hip, unless your table saw has, like, a 10 HP motor (all but impossible if it has the option of jumpering between 120V and 240V), your table saw probably requires 15- or 20-amp overcurrent protection @ 240V. The welder, on the other hand, can be "underwired" slightly because of the duty-cycle consideration (see above). I really wouldn't recommend trying to kill two birds with one Just my 2 cents. "Basically a pain in the ass working with RMC because unless you own a pipe threader, you have to take it somewhere. Which wound up like this..." Wow, sorry 'bout that, mon. Who knew that Home Despot sometimes employs idiots? :-) |
One thing strikes me. Somewhere in my educational reading in the past I learned to pull only about 1/2" of the outer sheating of romex into a box. Where did I read that? If it was just a particular author's preference, then your pulling in almost a foot is okay, but if it was specific instructions, then you oughtta fix that. Looks neater. :) |
Tom, you are right on the 50amp breaker. Table saw can probably run on a 20. I will have to look at the info on that again what Delta says for the saw. Scratch that sharing idea. I was thinking I had a HUGE table saw. But alas, tis not the case. I like the yellow insulating jacket in the panel. It brightens things up. Unless you are lucky enough to get a retired plumber at the hardware store near you, it's a roll of the dice whether you get something threaded correctly. Thankfully this was not gas line. If it were, I would have just tossed it and started over. So I have the 50amp breaker and a hole in front of the shed for a weatherproof box soon to be installed. I don't have a welder. I do have a table saw. I guess I will just set it up for the 15 or 20 breaker and a receptacle for my saw. It is easy enough to change it over to something else should the need arise. The rain should make ground rod installation easier. Here is an interesting link on how a ham radio guy sinks them. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/ground.htm |
What do you pros here make of the water jet method? I guess eventually the earth will close up onto the ground rod, but it seems to me that it would make for a pretty miserable ground when first installed. The ground rod just drops into the drilled hole - it's not really in solid contact with the earth. I'm not a pro so fortunately I don't have to sink a ground rod once a week or so. But when I do have to, I use a fence post driver. It's easier than a sledge, and safer for the guy who has to hold the rod for you while you swing at it from a stepladder. |
lol. I had the same thought about the water jet thing. Just the same, I'm thinking about modifying it a little and using it. I'm thinking, if we made the hole SMALLER, there'd still be plenty of earth for the rod to grab, but the pre-existing hole would certainly make it easier. ie, it wouldn't just "drop in" but it would be looser than untouched ground. |
Core bit arrived. Can finally get that hole drilled in the brick. Speaking of grounding. Assuming I am able to get the 8ft rods sunk down below grade. How do I handle the ground wire routing? Just route it up next to the rigid conduit and then inside to the subpanel?? I have 25ft of #4 copper to work with. Shed is 14ft wide. |
Got the hole drilled in the brick. Ear protection and a dust mask is a good idea. I drilled from inside to out, because I wanted the hole I already cut in the drywall to match up. I got the rest of the emt run down the wall to the 1" LB. Which then has a 1" pvc male adapter. Then I got some 1" gray pvc for the short section inside the wall. And that connects up to a 1-1/4" plastic LB on the other side via another plastic adaper. Filled the wall void with spray foam. Pulled the 4 wires all together today down to the metal LB inside the garage. Did not need the square box on ceiling. No biggie. Quickly realized I was short on wire. Grrrrr. Can I splice the wires in the plastic LB outside the garage? How do I go about splicing 6ga stranded wire? Already spent $120 so far on the wire. |
- Posted by spencer_electrician (My Page) on Fri, Nov 12, 10 at 18:49
How about using the ceiling box as a splice point. Not sure how much wire it would waste but that would possibly have the volume needed to splice the wires. Or perhaps pull that wire you have now to the shed and add pull a new section of wire from the ceiling box back to the main panel (which ever wastes the least amount of wire. Also hate to say it but the black or red wire is not code legal for your neutral. The code allows re-coloring the wire with tape but only for wires larger than number 6. That said, there are still a lot of pros out there re-taping even #8 wire. Don't know if your having this work inspected but there is a chance the inspector could catch it. The 2 hots can be black, buying red wire isn't required but helps keep track. |
No inspection, out in the sticks. That always seems to be an issue when I go for wire. They never have all the colors. So I got two blacks in the run figuring I would tape the one black with white tape and use it as the neutral. Got the remaining wire last night. This time Lowes had the white 6ga wire in stock but not the #10 green. So I went to Depot and got the #10 green. Based on the wire I was able to get, it will pan out at the sub panel with. And wherever I splice it, either the plastic LB or the ceiling box. So from the main panel to the splice: 1 black hot 6ga The ceiling box is a big 4 11/16, 42 cu inch. So how do I go about splicing the 6ga wire? Do they even make wire nuts that big? Or do I have to use some special tool and copper crimp collars? |
There are devices for splicing wires that large. The largest 'wire nut' I've personally used went up to #8 and I wouldn't want to see a larger one. The easiest to find is probably going to be "split bolt" connectors... There are butt connectors that crimp, but there are also barrel connectors with setscrews. |
I found some big wire nuts from GB at Ace. I will see how well they hold onto two 6ga wires. Finished the PVC today. Lot of test fitting and taking apart and I still had to redo a few cuts. Got it all set from the house to the shed now. I don't want to bury it yet until I know for sure that I can get the wire all through there. I don't see any issues, but you never know. |
Got the second set of wires pulled from the outside plastic LB to the sub panel. Lubed it with some diluted dishwashing soap. First try without soap wound up breaking the parachute cord. So I reset and hooked it up with 3 pull cords and lube. Got it through to the metal LB at the slab. Then routed it up to the panel. |
Pondering the exterior receptacle by the double doors on the shed just below the sub panel. Going to set it for 240v table saw for now. But the male plug on the saw is the type with two horizontal hot blades and then the ground. How do I get a GFCI on a 240v line cost effectively? I imagine a double pole 20a gfci is pricey. I know the hardware stores do not carry them. |
- Posted by spencer_electrician (My Page) on Mon, Nov 15, 10 at 12:34
GFCI protection is not technically required since it is a 240 volt receptacle. But if you would like it for your own piece of mind, a GFCI breaker is what you need. Since you have a Square D homeline panel (not QO) which are basically the cheapest circuit breakers out there, a double pole 20 shouldn't be too bad. Searching on google I found this one for a hundred bux. http://www.drillspot.com/products/159890/Square_D_HOM220GFI_Circuit_Breaker?s=5 A qo would likely cost near $200. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Mon, Nov 15, 10 at 18:01
"And wherever I splice it, either the plastic LB or the ceiling box. So from the main panel to the splice: 1 black hot 6ga The ceiling box is a big 4 11/16, 42 cu inch. So how do I go about splicing the 6ga wire? Do they even make wire nuts that big? Or do I have to use some special tool and copper crimp collars?" First let's address box fill requirements. When you splice a conductor in a box, it counts as two (one in, one out). So, from the standpoint of box fill, you have 6 x #6awg. Each #6 requires 5 cubic inches. Equipment grounds (whether spliced, pigtailed or whatever) collectively count as only one conductor. (I know, I know, it seems counterintuitive but box fill has as much to do with heat management as it does with whether or not you can actually squeeze everything in. :-) ) A #10AWG needs 2.5 cubic inches. By my calculation, the total size required is 32.5 ci (6 x 5 + 1 x 2.5) Thus, a 4 11/16 x 2" square box (42 ci) appears to meet box fill minimum. As for making splices in a conduit body (e.g., an LB), the issue is a little trickier. It wasn't many code revisions ago that splices in LBs were disallowed altogether but they are now allowed provided that the manufacturer specifically labels the LB with the c.i. available for connections. Some do, some don't. So does this mean that in the case of two otherwise identical LBs -- one of which has volume stamped on it and the second which does not -- that one is OK for splices and the other is a potential code violation? Yep, sure does. Go figure. I'm with Spencer on this one: I'd probably opt for making the splice in the junction box rather than the LB. (Also, that oughta require less additional wire.) Now for how to make the splice. As a matter of personal preference, I'm with pharkus on this. I'd probably use split bolt connectors for the current carrying conductors and a red wire nut for the EG. [Not saying that the big (gray?) wire nuts won't work. They will. I'm just personally more confident that split-bolt splices are secure. Of course, I'm an old fart. :-) ] However, if you aren't familiar with how to properly tape-up split bolt splices, it might be a better choice for a DIYer to opt for wire nuts. [If you do decide to use split-bolt connectors and aren't familiar with how to tape them up, come back for further discussion. Taping is a very important part of making split-bolt splices and the proper procedure is more involved than wrapping a couple of turns of black tape over the splice and screwing on the box cover.) **** BTW, if this were my project, I wouldn't spring for a GFCI breaker for the table saw. But, once again, that's just a personal preference. The larger the motor the less I like the idea of using GFCIs and they ain't that easy on the wallet either. |
Yes, I think I will skip the GFCI on the 240 recept for the saw. As far as the feeder splice goes, not sure if I have enough to route that exterior wire up to the ceiling box. Will check that tomorrow. If not, two conduit bodies on either side of the garage wall will have to be it. The outside pvc one is 32 cu in. The inside 1" metal LB is, strangely, not marked with a cubic inch, but instead says "maximum 3 #4ga." If I want to nit pick it, I suppose I could splice the green ground in the metal LB, and the 3 #6ga in the gray pvc LB outside. Had to cut a 4.25" RMC section for the final nipple at the sub panel. But I needed it threaded on one end. Oh joy. I had returns to make to both Depot and Lowes. First stop Lowes. Plumbing stocker pulls the machine out and then realizes they do not have a die large enough in it to cut the 1 1/4, or he doesn't know how to adjust it so it will. Find plumbing guy at Depot. Show him the short pipe I need threaded. He says, no, can't do one that short. Why not I say. He says it needs to be a long pipe because the machine grips it in the front and back. I say, welllll, I don't think that is correct, because the electrician at the other Depot managed to do a similar short pipe for me by just clamping it with the front jaws. So he give it a whirl, and low and behold, success. Now he knows it can indeed be done. Raining and cold today, so didn't get much done other than returns and the pipe threading. Still have to tackle the ground rods. I may try to sink one to the right of the LB at the slab, and the other one 8 ft to the right of that. I have 25ft of 4g bare copper to work with. Problem is that there is a fair amount of random sandstone all over here. I would guess my chances are very slim to be able to go straight down 8 feet without hitting some. |
And no, I have not used split bolt connectors before. I know what they are and have seen them at the store. I do not know how to tape them up properly. I do have the big 6ga wire nuts. Ace had them for sale individually in some bins. So I will give those a try and see how I feel about getting a good connection with them. |
Found a 3M video on taping up split bolts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tsx6im7qng |
That video clip looks like a great way to sell LOTS of 3M tape. Four layers of rubber tape followed by 4 layers of vinyl? That would be a fairly massive lump. |
Lots of any brand of tape is apparently needed to tape up those split bolt connections. Those insulated tap things are nice, but the wire nuts worked fine it seems for the 6ga. I tested them on some scrap first to be sure. Getting all those 6ga wires, with a bit of slack, into the ceiling box was a challenge. The poor mans wire tester in the photo below was my way of figuring out which black wire was which going to the shed. So, with the 9v battery clipped to the wires, I used my digital voltmeter over at the sub panel. With red +, and black - on the battery. When the voltmeter is on DC volts and the correct polarity is sensed between the black wires, it shows a positive voltage. When you reverse the probes, it will show a negative voltage. Thus distinguishing the positive from the negative, and which wire is which. I had to remove the sub panel to get the short pipe nipple on properly. With that done, the wiring got completed there. Started burying the pipe in the trench. Will finish that tomorrow. Got the 240v receptacle hooked up. Silicone around all exterior boxes. Tomorrow I will make the final connections at the main panel with a 60a double pole feeder breaker. |
Oh, and the copper grounding rods need to be sunk still. That may wind up eating the day tomorrow. We shall see. |
Got the ditch filled in today. Really windy, cold and then started raining. Ground rods will be tomorrow. Finished the connections at the main panel. One curious thing. The yellow romex cable with the black tape striped all down it. I turned off all the breakers in that panel, and the main. Checked the romex with my inductive beeper, nothing. So I figured when I was done, I would flip the main back on, and then the breakers one at a time and check that romex to see which circuit was powering it. Went through all of them, no power on that romex now. Hmmmm. Had power previously when I originally took the panel cover off weeks ago. Moving on to the other panel to the left. So I turned all the breakers off and the main on that panel. Went about fitting the panel cover back on, and it just did not fit right. Hmmm. So I quickly realized that the two 60a doubles for the electric heat were not Square D, but Cutler Hammer. And they are not designed on top, to line up properly with Square D covers. Greeeeat. I had a spare 60 Square D, so I popped that in for the one. The Cutler breaker I removed was broken a bit, as if someone at some point tried to pry it out. Anyway, got the left panel back on. Turned the main on, flipped the breakers on one at a time. Checking the yellow romex again each time. Nothing. Not a beep. I know my tester works. The main lines at the top cause it to beep. So I don't know why when I checked that romex multiple times before, it showed power. And clearly, someone marked it to indicate it was hot and not connected to anything in the panel. But now, it is not showing power. Nobody else has been working at the house besides me. It's a mystery for another day. |
That stray cable really bothers me. If it were my house, I'd be turning the place upside down to figure out where it goes and what it's supposed to be doing. I don't fully trust volt ticks. I'd use a Wiggy or at least a neon tester on it. I'd definitely replace those CH breakers with the proper type. There is no excuse for that kind of hack work. |
Yes, I will have to check that mystery cable further. It comes down into the panel through one of the main large conduit feeds. Those are already jam packed with wires. So it seems unlikely it could have been fished through after the initial panel install. And the black taping of the cable in a stripe fashion all the way down is curious. Because it's not tape that was rolled around and down the cable. Little bits of tape were indidually cut and put on there. Clearly not something an electrician would do. It apparently was taped like that to indicate to others that is was a hot cable coming into the box. So why am I not getting a power indication on it now, when I was before. I definitely need to find out where that goes. Unfortunately, the majority of the cable used in the attic are yellow jacketed. |
Today was ground rod day. And so is tomorrow. Got the 4ga copper wire connected in the sub panel and snaked through the small knockout in the bottom, the out and down next to the RMC. Then stretched it out to the right in front of the slab. Got two 8ft, 5/8 rods. Ground was plenty wet from recent rains. But it is clay, so it doesn't percolate very far down. Managed to get just 2 feet pounded in using sledge and water method. Next, I had a 1/2" copper pipe about 50" long I found a large hex bolt that would fit inside it. I drilled through the pipe and bolt. Inserted a cotter pin. Then used my dremel with an abrasive wheel to cut teeth into the other end of the pipe. Poor mans core drill basically. I have a socket adapter that fits my 3/8 electric variable speed drill. So popped a craftsman socket on there and went back to work. Water, drill on hex bolt, go down a bit, remove pipe, whack end of pipe with small 1x2 to get the core out...repeat. Got about another 3 feet using that method. The copper teeth last maybe 5 shots, then need to be recut with dremel. Some of the clay is very dense sticky and much harder to extract from the pipe. May stop at the rental place in town here and see what they have in demolition hammers and try brute force. |
I don't have the book handy here to check to be sure that this is still OK - will do so later if I can. However, IIRC, the code allows you to dig trenches and lay the ground rods horizontally. I think you have to go either 30" or 36" down, and the connectors on the rods have to be listed for direct burial. Don't forget that you're not allowed to have any splices in the ground wire. Thread it through the first rod's connector uncut, and take it right on to the next one's. |
The exterior lights are installed and functioning fine. Everything else is working properly. Got delayed on the ground rods. Will be renting a chipping hammer with rod driver attachment tomorrow. I have been soaking the holes with water regularly. Hopefully they will both go in all the way. Total expenses so far to do this project = about $1200 |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Tue, Nov 23, 10 at 9:28
"Total expenses so far to do this project = about $1200 Used up about 8 gallons of fuel with various trips to the hardware stores." When you do the final cost/benefit analysis, don't forget to load up the benefits column with a lot of valuable learning as well as a few tools you now own that you may use again. It's a matter of philosophy, I suppose, but given the choice of doing something myself for the first time and hiring it out at the same cost, I'll nearly always opt for doing it myself. What I've learned over a lifetime of getting my fingernails dirty is the real difference. And, next time, you'll be able to tackle a wiring project much more efficiently, with a lot fewer trips to the hardware stores. [Having said that, I gotta admit that although I can usually complete an electrical project with only a couple of trips to the store, I doubt I've ever completed a significant plumbing project with fewer than about a half-dozen trips. :-) Because you had elements of "plumbing" to deal with, your daily commuting runs can be excused in part.] Because I think this thread would make for an excellent case study for a DIYer considering a project to wire an outbuilding (with great pics to boot), I'd throw in this additional thought, though it won't benefit the OP at this point in the game: Yes, ground rods can be a b1tch to drive and after all that blood and sweat, they provide for a grounding system that is inferior to electrodes embedded in a building's concrete foundation. Had you laid out most of that #4 copper when the concrete was being poured and bonded it to the rebar, you'd have a better ground (known as a "Ufer") at a lower cost with a fraction of the work. But hindsight is always 20/20, right? |
"Yes, ground rods can be a b1tch to drive and after all that blood and sweat, they provide for a grounding system that is inferior to electrodes embedded in a building's concrete foundation." The UFER may not be as good as the rods depending on local soil conditions, chiefly how wet the earth is at the bottom of the foundation. In desert areas you can only sometimes only get a reliable connection by dripping water on ground rods driven very deeply. Local addition to the code can require very deep driven grounds and the watering system. It is a real PITA to get any kind of antenna to have a decent ground plane also. We ended up putting radial leads of solid #10 wire from the base of the antenna mast for 5 wavelengths out at the lowest frequency (high HF) then having a sprinkler system installed just above them to water the sand. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Tue, Nov 23, 10 at 16:37
"The UFER may not be as good as..." FWIW, it's a Ufer (or if you contend that the word has gained acceptance as a generic, perhaps a ufer). But because it is named for one Herbert G. Ufer, it is not an acronym (i.e., "UFER"). Curiously, Mr. Ufer developed the technique in the Arizona deserts for the Army precisely to avoid having to sink ground rods hundreds of feet over bomb storage vaults. |
- Posted by terribletom (My Page) on Tue, Nov 23, 10 at 16:41
err...under bomb storage vaults? :-) |
I just read somewhere else that only the primary grounding rod at the electric meter needs to be driven to the 8ft depth. Secondary rods at sub panels have no specific depth requirement. Is this in fact the case? At this point, cutting them off below grade seems to be the only realistic solution. The ground will be freezing up shortly here. |
- Posted by petey_racer (My Page) on Wed, Nov 24, 10 at 12:27
Where did you read that??? It is totally wrong. |
I saw it posted on another online electrical forum which I can't locate now. I was just browsing around online at lunch when I saw it. I did see a mention on the water pipe drilling method and that it leaves the hole too large and not in good contact with earth. Someone responded that for really deep ground rods, they always drill a larger hole, drop the rods in, and then fill the space with a clay slurry. |
As I suggested before, you can lay the rods horizontally in a ditch. I checked and they're supposed to be buried 30" down. The clamps have to be listed for direct burial. |
- Posted by jaysgarden (My Page) on Thu, Nov 25, 10 at 13:46
You started this job on October 31??? Wonder how long it would have taken without all the commentary and photos?? Looks like a good job though. |
Probably longer, as he asked for input several times and, had he not received it, someone at a hardware store would probably have given him bad advice, or simply not known. Every once in a while I get annoyed with this thread too, but, honestly, it's a good idea, and probably one of the best way for a DIY job to get done correctly. |
Yes, it took a while, in between everything else I was doing around here. But I got it done and it works, and I learned a lot. Posting clear photos is more helpful sometimes than trying to explain the issue. Thanks for the help guys. End of job. |
- Posted by Jon Z(firstname.lastname@example.com) onWed, Mar 2, 11 at 11:21
Great thread ohmmm. Just a quick note on your mystery cable if you haven't found what it might be yet. It might have been for temoporary power during the construction of your house for work lights and receptacles. I often find in my parts contractors leaving the cabling behind after construction in this fashion. Hope this helps. Jon |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Electrical Wiring Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here