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RE: Titan Post Anchors (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: richb65 on 03.24.2008 at 09:18 am in Porches & Decks Forum Just a couple helpful tips for you guys about Cumaru. Cumaru,Ipe and even Trex are very dense material and screwing, cutting or pounding nails into this wood requires pre drilling.
No two ways about it. But this kind of wood is way stronger than cedar or redwood in the end. The trick is to use a hole saw twice to get the cut deeper so you don't have to pound the anchor into as much uncut wood. After the first pass with the hole saw, use a Forstner bit and remove about an inch of wood. Then use the hole saw one more time. The saw will cut deeper and tube will go in further before bottoming out. Then just pound it in the last 1/4" or 1/2". NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.24.2008 at 05:55 pm last updated on: 03.24.2008 at 05:55 pm
RE: Cork over radiant (Follow-Up #3)
posted by: atelier on 01.12.2007 at 11:24 pm in Flooring Forum cork2win,
Actually, in my experience, homeowners installing their own floor are the best ones at following installation instructions and specifications. Because it's their own money at stake. Most people are careful not to waste their own money and time by ruining their own floor... Cork is tricky and does demand a very smooth substrate. If you educate yourselves on the proper installation techniques, follow manufacturer's instructions, and take your time installing, you should do well. If you have any doubts or questions about what you are doing- try asking to speak to a technical or architectural representative with the cork company. If you've done enough background research and are fairly handy, you should be able to get good information on any of your outstanding questions out of these people. The manufacturer in the end likes to see a successful install. You may even want the availability of technical help over the phone to be one of the factors in choosing from whom you purchase your cork. I was suggesting you use an installer who's done this before only because that's what I would do if I were hiring someone to do the job for me. Good luck with the project. How big of a cork floor is this going to be anyway? (gives me an idea of how feasible this is as a DIY project) NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.16.2007 at 01:06 am last updated on: 12.16.2007 at 01:07 am
RE: Cork over radiant (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: atelier on 01.12.2007 at 05:15 pm in Flooring Forum I don't know why your duro rep said not to use a floating floor over radiant heat. Their own specifications (available here: Duro Design Specifications) say you can !?.
Anyway, I've installed cork floors over radiant heat both as floating and tile several times with no problems. As for your question about the insulation value of cork blocking the heat from a radiant heating system. I get this question often, and the answer briefly is that cork is entirely compatible with a radiant heat floor. Here is the answer and rationale in detail, explained in point form: 1. A radiant heating system is not a quick-response system- i.e. it relies on thermal mass and heat radiation. That's part of its efficiency and why it is comfortable- the floor constantly radiates warmth upwards. 2. The insulative value of a material refers to how well it slows down the transmission of heat. The heat doesn't dissappear or get absorbed by the material- it just takes longer the flow through. So in practice, floor coverings do not affect the overall operation of a radiant heat floor because the heat will eventually get through. Remember- a radiant heat floor is not a quick response system- you don't just walk into a room and crank up the thermostat. (Of course don't do something silly like install a radiant floor over a drafty, cold basement, because you'd lose all the heat out the basement first) 3. Yes the insulation value per inch of cork is higher than that of wood but a cork tile is only 3/16" thick. I did the math a long time ago and the total R value of 3/16" of cork is almost exactly the same as 3/4" of a typical wood. So putting down cork tile is no worse than putting down 3/4" of wood. 4. That being said, a floating cork floor will have a bigger R value than a cork tile floor, because it is on a 5/16" mdf core, and thus will slow the heat transmission a bit more. I don't tend to use a floating floor, unless specified or the price differential is less than the added bit of surface preparation to bring a floor up to cork tile standards. 5. Finally, a site-finished cork tile floor will not gap visibly due to expansion/contraction of the radiant heat floor. Cork is a truly resillient material with excellent rebounding properties (95% recovery after 50% compression!) After all, cork itself is commonly used for control joints and gaskets. Lengthy answer, but I'm hoping if the issue comes up again, we can just link to this post. I hope I covered everything- If I've missed something, I'd be glad to follow up. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.16.2007 at 01:06 am last updated on: 12.16.2007 at 01:06 am
RE: Rev-A-Shelf Spice Racks for Fillers -- Have you seen these!!! (Follow-Up #22)
posted by: karencon on 10.21.2007 at 07:34 am in Kitchens Forum DH designed this one in already installed cabinets. He nailed to the cabinet on the left with the dishwasher pulled out.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.08.2007 at 03:01 pm last updated on: 12.08.2007 at 03:01 pm
Granite fabricator said my requirements are unreasonable!
posted by: dandan74 on 11.30.2007 at 01:24 pm in Kitchens Forum I had the fabricator did a small vanity first and there are some issues I want them to fix. Based on this job, I gave them a list of requirements for my kitchen countertop. She came back and said those requirements are impossible to meet and she does not want my business anymore. Am I being too picky?
Here is her reply: As I stated in our previous conversation, the requirements that you are requesting cannot be accepted as part of our contract. We cannot be responsible for any color variations, fillers, pits, fissures or any other characteristics that are to be expected from a natural product. Your expectations of perfection in a imperfect product is impossible. Here is my list:
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.06.2007 at 03:20 pm last updated on: 12.06.2007 at 03:20 pm
RE: Let's talk about the special things in your kitchen (Follow-Up #8)
posted by: alku05 on 06.30.2007 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum We also put in a lot of special features, most of which were suggested or inspired by this forum:
- vertical storage in the over-fridge and over-oven cabinets Ok, so some of these aren't really that special, but we still love them! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.01.2007 at 01:31 am last updated on: 07.01.2007 at 01:31 am
RE: Small oops -- wire range hood to undercab lighting (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: evergreendan on 06.29.2007 at 07:19 pm in Kitchens Forum Tom, that may be, but I can't for the life of me imagine why you wouldn't want your hood lights wired to your undercabinet lights. Under hood ... under cabinet ... same thing from a lighting point of view. Without doing this, the lighting scenes for the room have a black hole by the range. (I have 4 circuits on dimmers.)
Anyhow, I would have thought that everyone would want this and that I simply missed it. I had intended to warn others to not forget this, but, hey, maybe I'm alone in wanting it. Just trying to be helpful. Actually, that would be an interesting thread -- silly things you forgot -- or almost forgot -- to account for. In case anyone cares, my kitchen has a lot of custom small features that I think are going to be helpful: 1) Narrow / deep base cabinet for cookie sheets and pizza stones. Maybe someone will like an idea or two. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 06.30.2007 at 08:44 am last updated on: 06.30.2007 at 08:44 am
RE: Is there a difference in buying Granite from China or Brazil? (Follow-Up #14)
posted by: stonegirl on 06.21.2007 at 09:47 pm in Kitchens Forum Hi guys!
Sorry I missed this thread *blush* I often just check the first page in the evening and some days we work out so late that I don't get around to it and things drop off the radar here pretty fast :) Good golly - there is a bunch of questions in that post - guess I better get started: Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued or brushed should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab, looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab. Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process. For the tumbled tiles it is a similar issue - although not really as critical. The tumbled finish is a more rough and random kind of finish and actually gets imparted on the stone by agitating it in a huge container. Just check that the finish is consistent everywhere. On resined slabs and sealing: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. On extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer. Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed does not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but gets resined to eliminate a flaking issue. Seams: It seems a good book could be written about seams, their quality and their placement and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect! A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics: - It should be flat. According to the MIA a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint. - It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!) - The color on either side of the seam should match as close as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible. - Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client. - The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all. - The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference) - The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as close as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try an make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it :) Seam placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view on this board, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen. Among the things the fabricator needs to look at when deciding on the seam placement are: - The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone) - Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available - Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will impact seam placement here alone. - Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some don't. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation. - Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately - - Installability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again a 1001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question. You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams. With modern glues and seaming methods a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam was done well, there would be - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula. Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs, and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available. Rodding: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece. Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent, would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e. eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape. Like I said earlier - edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world :) Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references. A good edge should have the following characteristics: - Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull or waxy. - The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing. - The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship. - A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others. - A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanised fabrication (i.e. CNC macines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly. We have seen some terrible edges in jobs done by our competitors. Do your research and look at actual kitchens. Talk to clients and ask them about the fabricator. Most good fabricators will not hesitate to supply the names and numbers of clients willing to provide referrals. Do your homework. In an industry that has no set standards, there are a lot of unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. I'm going to have some coffee now :) NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm last updated on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm
RE: Is there a difference in buying Granite from China or Brazil? (Follow-Up #8)
posted by: stonegirl on 06.13.2007 at 09:23 pm in Kitchens Forum Jude - thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it :)
tkml - granite is fine in a bathroom. We do loads of granite vanities and they all look great. Natural stone adds a flair to any room and the ease of care makes it a great choice for hard working counter tops. rococo - The resin has a number of functions. First among them is to fill surface imperfections and to bind the material. The NVG in the original question would be a good example. The garnets in the stone tend to be flaky. This is a constant with any garnet inclusion in any material. The resin fills the crystals that flaked out and binds the ones with fissures. This results in a superior surface polish and a really smooth slab. Even materials like Ubatuba, Verde Peacock and Baltic Brown get resined for this specific reason. Delicate materials like Delicatus or Gold and Silver get resined for added structural integrity. The resin penetrates the stone and binds the fissures inherent in these materials. This adds significant integrity to these stones - in some cases so much so that without resin some of these materials would not have been available to the consumers. An added bonus of the resining process is that it makes the stones less absorbent too. In short - a well resined piece of stone is a very desirable thing. Some pointers for knowing a good quality slab: - Uniform surface polish. The surface should be smooth and uniformly shiny. Some stones do not attain a high gloss (i.e. Wild Sea is can not get as glossy as Black Galaxy, for instance) Natural stone also has inherent fissures and inclusions, all of which will show differently at an oblique angle in the light. These are normal - what is not normal is an uneven polish. Grind marks (often circular or linear dull streaks), stuns (lighter color "dings" or divots), scratches or hazy spots on the face of the slab are unacceptable. A limited amount of these imperfections could occur on the very extreme edges of the slabs - this is normal and part of the manufacture process. - Fill. Some materials have (in some cases quite large) voids that will be filled. Lady's Dream, Gold & Silver (among others) and all travertines will have fill. This fill should be of uniform color, smooth and at level with the rest of the slab. Depending on the material, a moderate amount of fill is acceptable. Excessive fill is not desirable. Fill that has bubbles, dips below the surface of the slab or is otherwise of poor appearance is not acceptable either. - Fissures. Inspect the slabs front and back if possible. Some stones will have fissures. It is to be expected. If the stone has large fissures right through the slab, it is not a good thing. In excessively fissured stones, the manufacturer would sometimes epoxy a scrim sheet (fiberglass or netting) to the back for additional support. This is OK. What is not desirable is for heavily fissured stones NOT to have the scrim sheets. This is looking for trouble. Discuss this with your fabricator and ask what the ramifications of your selection of these slabs would be. Often this would cause an upcharge for fabrication issues and a higher waste factor. - Inclusions. Stone is a natural product. Things happened in the formation of it that caused it to have inclusions, veins and all kinds of other features. This is beyond the control of the quarry or the fabricator. Select slabs that are appealing to you. If the slabs have undesirable inclusions, and you insist on having that particular stone, make your fabricator aware of your preferences regarding those features. He in turn would tell you if he is able to work around the marks or not. The best way to ensure that you get good quality material, though is to get a good and knowledgeable fabricator. He/she will help you choose a great material and make you aware of the strengths or weaknesses of your choices. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm last updated on: 06.22.2007 at 09:52 pm
RE: Major Disappointment With Pella Windows and Doors - Caveat Em (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: guy_exterior_man on 03.02.2007 at 05:17 pm in Windows Forum I'm truly sorry to hear your nightmare with Pella. We happen to install their windows almost every day of the week. Even I have difficulties with their field reps telling us we installed them wrong. I almost threw one of the field techs in a dumpster out of the second story patio door opening. He told me we installed the patio door out of square and level. So the delaminating door wasn't covered under warranty. I proved him wrong by showing him that their door wasn't plumb or perfect from the factory. One hinged doors hinge locations were 3/16" different on one side of the frame to the other. So I couldn't make them level or square if I wanted to. They replaced the patio doors needless to say. I know these field technicians, as their called, do anything and everything to prove it's not their fault. It's a sad thing to deal with. Unfortunately the new building code has made every manufacturers installation requirements code, no matter what. Meaning we must follow each manufacturers installation guidelines to the tee! So now we have to go by their posted information that's sent with each door & window.
Their vertical sliding windows are something we deal with all the time. I've always taught my installers that proper shimming has to be done on every window no matter what. The Pella units require that special touch because of how their built. Ounce we level and square the unit with shims in each corner, we screw all four corners down tightly. (We use cedar shims so humidity doesn't cause any movement) After the corners are done we then shim the center of the windows right at the meeting rails of each window. We adjust the reveal evenly from top to bottom. Ounce we get this done we lock the center of each frame with screws. This will hold the window in the same place forever. We do all the lock down screws from the inside right threw the jambs. We also nail it down on the outside with the nail flange. After this we use a low expansion foam to insulate around the entire unit. Ounce this sets up it's also an adhesive. So the window isn't going anywhere after we're done. We use this technique on everyones window and we have no problem. But we do this for a living also. The average home builder wouldn't know this unless someone told them. Another trick I use is Pledge Furniture Polish (Lemon Scent smells good) on all the weatherstripping up and down each side. I spray it on a towel and wipe both sides of the frame and also down each side of the sashes. I do this with every wood window we hang. The wax coats the weatherstripping and lets them slide much better with out much friction. The window functions much better and it's much easier to lock and slide. The field tech will never know about this one. I also think the seals are a bit bigger than they have to be. I guess the theory is after some time they collapse a bit and work better. The jury is still out on this one. One thing to remember with any window is they have to be made perfectly square and functional from the factory before we can install them the same way in the field. You'll find that they don't come that way from the factory that often! Hope you get things resolved soon and good luck!!! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 04:49 pm last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 04:49 pm
RE: Replacement Windows vs. New Construction Windows (Follow-Up #11)
posted by: guy_exterior_man on 08.25.2006 at 07:51 am in Windows Forum Flashing is the product used to cover the nail fin area around a "New Construction" Window or Door after they've been set. Not to be confused with panning tape such as Tyvek Flexwrap (here's their site)
http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/products/residential/products/flexwrap.html The Flexwraps are used for panning the bottom of each opening before windows are set in place. They call it "flex wrap" so you can bend it up around the bottom corners of each window sill or around any arch tops or custom windows. With it's flexible membrane it's able to stay in one piece and wrap the entire sill and go up each side around eight inches. Flexwrap costs around $60 a box and will only cover a couple sills per box. This would be a very expensive product to use around the entire window. Remember that the Flexwrap is put on before the window is installed. The flashing is installed after the window has been set. Before I get to far ahead we must keep in mind that the house must be wrapped with a house wrap (such as Tyvek House Wrap) before any of the other products can be put in place. When the wrapping is cut back and stapled down inside each opening as required then the Flexwrap can be installed. The top portion of the house wrap above each window & door opening is cut back and tacked up out of the way. Then the window or doors nail fin is back caulked and set in place with the top nail fin adhering directly to the exterior wall sheathing. Ounce the window is leveled, shimmed & nailed in place the flashing can then be installed. The flashing is done in different ways across the Nation. We've been working hard with many of the building code councils to make the process more by the book across the Nation. This way all new homes will have the same protection no matter where you live. So houses built in AZ will have the same Air Infiltration qualities as we do here in MN. Here in the colder climates we use a couple different flashing products. They are all very similar and all have a sticky back so they can adhere to the nail fin and the house wrap. You can use the Tyvek Straightflash or the Grace Vycor as Thull mentioned above. We use a product called "Protecto Wrap" on our jobs. We can get the tape in any size from 4" to 36" in width. We generally use the 6" on most of our applications. After the window is nailed off you use the shingle method when installing the flashing tape. The bottom piece goes on first, then the two sides and lastly the top piece. When taping the window remember the side pieces must come all the way down and cover over the bottom piece. None of the bottom piece should protrude out from under the side pieces. The tops of each side must go up just enough for the top piece to cover them completely. Remember the top portion of the house wrap was cut back so the flashing tape can fix the top nail fin down to the wall sheathing. We put the top piece of tape just across the nail holes of the fin and run it out around an inch past each side piece. This offers the best protection from water finding a way past any tape not sealed down right. Ounce the top tape is fixed in place we can then flip the house wrap down over our tape. We then cut the house wrap up so we have a good portion of the windows nail fin visible for final taping. We then use the Tyvek Tape to tape the house wrap to the nail fin., Some installers run the house wrap right down to the window itself with no place for the tape to adhere to. By cutting back the wrap and exposing some nail fin we get the tape to seal the top of the window tightly for no potential leakage. We then tape off any little cuts where the flashing tape and the house wrap intersection. Ounce this is done we back caulk an aluminum drip cap and nail it above the door or window (with cap nails) to finish the job. It sounds complicated but it's really easy ounce you've done it. Good Luck!!! Here is a link that might be useful: Protecto Wrap NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 04:22 pm last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 04:22 pm
RE: code for electric water heater in a closet (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: lazypup on 07.21.2006 at 11:31 am in Plumbing Forum For electric water heaters there are no floor, ceiling or sidewall clearances listed in the plumbing codes, however many local fire codes do have restrictions.
It must remain accessible for service, inspection & removal. When enclosed you must provide a minimum of 24"W x 30"H door. The front of the water heater where the controls and wiring are must remain accessible. When installed on a raised plateform, the support platform must be enginered for the combined load of the water heater and the water when full. (50gal x 8lbs/gal= 400lbs plus the weight of the water heater). When installed on a wood floor or any surface that can be damaged by water the tank must have an approved drip pan. The drip pan must have a minimum 3/4" drain line run outside the structure or to an approved indirect waste receptor. ( May not be combined with the Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P) line.) The Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve must have a discharge line who's diameter is equal to or greater than the diameter of the T&P discharge port. The T&P discharge line must be run outside the structure or discharge into an approved indirect waste receptor. All horizontal runs of the pan & T&P discharge lines must be run with a 1/4" per foot pitch dropping downward toward the discharge end. When run outside the structure the discharge end of the line must be not less than 6" nor more than 24" above average grade. If you do not have a lockable cover or direct line of sight from the water heater to the electrical service panel you must install an electrical service disconnect in the immediate vicinity of the water heater. The cold water supply line to the water heater must have a full bore type shutoff valve (Gate valve or ball valve) and the valve must be immediately accessible. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.20.2007 at 05:24 am last updated on: 04.20.2007 at 05:24 am
RE: Insulating ceiling without attic (Follow-Up #5)
posted by: MongoCT on 12.03.2005 at 10:39 pm in Remodeling Forum Code does now allow unvented cathedrals, but there are restrictions to do so.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:03 pm last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:03 pm
RE: Insulating ceiling without attic (Follow-Up #4)
posted by: mjgcamper on 12.03.2005 at 07:24 pm in Remodeling Forum I opened a cathedral ceiling in the early summer to install skylites. The insulation was packed too tight. Did not meet code, and the plywood for the roof (roof sheathing) was wet on the underside.
The uniform building code requires 4 mil poly visqueen with a minimum one inch air space above the insulation. Each cavaty or bay between rafters must be vented to this one inch air space by the installation of baffles. I specialize in cathedrals, and use unfaced insulation batts, which we slide down over the already stapled in visqueen in four foot sections. High density cathedral insulation from Owens corning stays up the best if you want it to stay on its own till you staple the required visqueen. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:02 pm last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:03 pm
RE: Insulating ceiling without attic (Follow-Up #3)
posted by: MongoCT on 12.02.2005 at 04:06 pm in Remodeling Forum First the cellulose...you can use cells, and if you do, have them dense-packed. That prevents them from settling. As was previously mentioned, you can install the drywall, then blow the cells through the holes in the drywall, then patch the holes. Not a problem.
Or you can hang the mesh net, which is designed to work with cellulose insulation. Then you drywall over the net. Your choice. Regarding fiberglass. Ubfaced batts are sized to friction fit between the rafters. No staples, no problems, and easy to install as long as the framing is on a decent layout. Over that, as you wrote, you can install 4- or 6-mil poly. Home Depot and most lumberyards sell the poly. Usually available in 10' length by however long you want it. 10' by 100' rolls is the most common. If you do the FG, do yourself a favor...after the FG is installed, install sheets (4' by 8') of rigid foam board insulation. I prefer foil-faced polyisocyanurate. Also available at Home Depot and lumberyards. Gap the sheets by about 1/4" to 3/8ths inch when you hang them. The ends of the sheets do not need to break over the rafters, they can break in the niddle of a rafter bay. After hanging them, use canned foam to seal the gaps. This will give an aiir-tught assembly, which is what you need in a cathedral ceiling. Fiberglass alone vs cellulose of FG with polyiso? Fiberglass is transparent to radiant energy, so when your roof heats up from the sun, it will become a monster radiant panel. The radiant energy from the roof travels through the FG, then heats up the drywall, then the drywall becomes a monster radiant panel, and it'll heat up your great room in the summer. Same idea behind hot attics in the summer. Fiberglass will do nothing to stop that gain. You need polyiso or come other RFBI. The polyiso will block the radiant gain, keeping the additional heat load out fo the great room in the summer...and with it's top-notch air sealing capability, it'll keep your great room warmer in the winter. Polyiso is R-7 per inch, it'll also act as a thermal break between the rafters and the insterior conditioned space. Cellulose is also opaque to radiant energy. But remember, if you install cells in a rafter bay, you need them dense-packed, and that means no air channel at the top for traditional venting. That is NOT a negative in my book. Dense-packed cells do not neccessarily need a vapor barrier either. You can still install one, but you don't need to. Also, with this cathedral ceiling, try to not put any holes in the ceiling...can lights, etc. Keep it air tight, that'll prevent any moisture-laden air in the living space from getting into the cathedral assembly through can lights (even air tight ones) or junction boxes for electrical. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:02 pm last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:02 pm
RE: Sliding Pocket Doors (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: maredog on 04.03.2007 at 06:27 pm in Kitchens Forum Hi! I am in the middle of a whole house remodel and we are having our contractor put in two pocket doors, one in a tiny bath and one in a bedroom that needs all the space help it can get. I found quite a bit of info when I did a search on the remodel forum. I think that it is a little tricky but not rocket science..of course we are not doing it so easy for me to say! They get a bad rep but I think it is misinformation more than anything else. We got the feeling our GC was reluctant to put them in so we did some checking ourselves. Here is a quote from one of the forum responses that we sent our contractor:
"The Johnson kits are pretty decent, but I never use the 'pre-framed' ones. One of the 'tricks' is to never mount the track directly to a weight bearing header. Pocket door hardware is definitely finish carpentry, not framing. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 07:54 am last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 07:54 am
RE: Inset door cabinets on a budget? (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: gunderson1909 on 02.02.2007 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum If you do end up going with a local custom cabinet maker, ask lots of questions up front and check references extra carefully. Make sure details like hinges, interiors finish, gap size, tolerances etc. are sorted out ahead of time. For example, one thing that I have noticed in quality cabinetry (especially in cabinets with glass doors and lights) is a band of wood inside the cabinet to block the light from the gap.
Even if the cabinet maker sells herself or himself as the expert, be very specific. Just my words of advice in the midst of a very frustrating experience. Lots of people have good experiences with local custom cabinet makers - you just cannot take the details for granted. Good luck. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.09.2007 at 12:20 pm last updated on: 02.09.2007 at 12:20 pm
RE: Any one in the Kansas City area? (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: mtnative2 on 01.25.2007 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum We are building a house in a suburb of Kansas City. I did consult a KD...who happens to be a friend of mine, but ended up doing things myself. There is a wonderful place in Grandview that has a whole warehouse full of discount building supplies like cabinetry, granite, lighting, etc. It is called Patriot Products and it is near the old House of Lloyd complex. We got a lot of stuff through them and at their auctions. (Got the granite for $10 per sq ft at the auction...still have to have an installer put it in and make the cuts.) Do you work outside the home? This is very time consuming trying to manage people and the timing of everything! Good luck.
Dana PS: I don't know how to give you my email address without sharing it with the world! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.30.2007 at 02:56 pm last updated on: 01.30.2007 at 02:57 pm
RE: Low cost high impact special touches (Follow-Up #7)
posted by: gregdrose on 12.21.2006 at 09:15 pm in Building a Home Forum Recess a flat screen TV into a wall. Have another wall built 6" infront of the first wall and have your carpenter frame an opening a few inches larger than your flat screen so you can mount the flat screen on the first wall.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 10:07 am last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 10:07 am
RE: If you were/are the GC... can you share your project plan? (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: momto3 on 01.22.2007 at 10:19 pm in Kitchens Forum If you are not making any structural changes to the space you can do OK. And if you are not handy yourself, you have to really trust your trade specialists! Once you have a great plumber, a great electrician you are on your way. Then you'll need a good plasterer, too.
The coordinating wasn't too bad, but my father WAS A HUGE HELP. He is a carpenter and a woodworker and could really relate with all the tradesmen. This was huge. Plus he knew exactly what they were all doing(because I sure as heck didn't!) The hardest part is the legwork for making your descisions. This can be very confusing and time and labor intensive. At least it was for me. Our plan may be different because we replaced all existing plumbing and upgraded to 200 amps in the house and updated all the electric. Here was our basic agenda: tear out to studs and discard If it is an old house, have a backup lighting plan ready and use a lighting specialist in a light store. Other than that, just make sure you know what you want. I am sure every plan will be different bsed on the house and the situation. good luck! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 08:40 am last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 08:41 am
RE: Replace greenboard with hardibacker in gutted shower ? (Follow-Up #3)
posted by: mongoct on 12.23.2006 at 06:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum No greenboard in wet areas. Only cement board.
Over the studs/framing place some sort of barrier that will act as a drainage plane...either 6-mil poly sheeting, or run #15 felt (tar paper) horizontally and overlap the upper courses over the lower as you go up the wall. The 1/2" thick Hardie goes over the drainage plane (poly or felt). For the seam between the drywall and the hardie, try to place it so it will fall behind the last run of tile...so the tile will be covering part of the hardie and part of the greenboard. Be tiramisu, Mongo NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 12:33 am last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 12:34 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #47)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.21.2007 at 09:37 am in Kitchens Forum The LEDTronics strips we used came in fixed lengths, so we used the largest that fit into a particular cabinet section. For example, in a 36" cabinet section, we used a 24" strip. That leaves 6" free on either end; the beam spreads out by the time it hits the backspash, so the gap is not really apparent (BTW, the beam width spec on our LEDs was 85 degrees).
The power supply must be sized according to the power requirements of the LEDs you are using. In our case, the LED strips required a 12V, 2A power supply which we obtained from PowerStream, but any supply capable of supplying the required power should work. Here is a link that might be useful: PowerStream 12V power supplies NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 03:21 pm last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 03:21 pm
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #41)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.19.2007 at 04:30 pm in Kitchens Forum NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:40 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:40 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #38)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.11.2007 at 06:15 pm in Kitchens Forum John, DH says that within each cabinet section, separate light strips are daisy chained together, then for each section a single low voltage wire run inside the wall into the basement.
In the basement, the low voltage wires are connected in parallel to a single transformer plugged into a line outlet (which is controlled by a switch in the kitchen). NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:38 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:39 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #34)
posted by: organic_donna on 01.08.2007 at 03:30 pm in Kitchens Forum I know my LED's were a bit of a challenge to install. My contractor can do anything and he said they took him a lot longer than he planned. My lights have a transformer and we put it behind the cabinet above the fridge. If you look really close you can see the open cabinet and there is a hole cut out of it. They ran the wires down and brought them behind the upper cabinets and drilled a hole in the corner of the backslash
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:36 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:36 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #25)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.04.2007 at 10:04 am in Kitchens Forum Donna, you're not hijacking the thread at all! DH says the installation wasn't very complicated at all. Just a matter of screwing in the brackets and snapping them in.(The wires having been run previously for whatever lights we were going to use) It took about 4 hours to install them.
I wouldn't use a dimmer either, the light never appears harsh or too bright. And I'm amazed at how thin they are. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:32 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:32 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #23)
posted by: elizabethzen on 01.03.2007 at 03:03 pm in Kitchens Forum "But all three seem to offer various colors including a 3000k. Does somebody understand the key difference between these?"
Yor're right, it is a description of the color of the light, measured in kelvins (k) not the width of the beam. Lower numbers are more yellow (warm), higher numbers more white/blue-white (cool). Elizabeth Here is a link that might be useful: color temperature NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:30 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:31 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #22)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.03.2007 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum >>- are they dimmable?
Not sure, perhaps with a special power supply? >>is there a way to gang them up to get a continuous run? >>Does somebody understand the key difference between these? Here is a link that might be useful: LEDTronics STP306C NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:29 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:29 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #14)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 11:01 pm in Kitchens Forum Our LEDs are 3000K color temp. which has a spectrum similar to sunlight (white-yellow). The LED Strips are also available in 7000K color temp. which put out a little more light, but they have more blue in their light spectrum.
The LEDs are very power efficient (about 15W total for all the cabinet LEDs) and they are cool to the touch. We mounted the LED strips on the front edge of the underside of the cabinets and aimed them at the backsplash, so we don't have any glare off the counter top. Here is a link that might be useful: LEDtronics LED Strips NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:20 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:20 am
Or This One? (Follow-Up #11)
posted by: vizslalover on 01.02.2007 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum Or maybe this one that they show as undercabinet lighting...
Here is a link that might be useful: Tube Lighting NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:19 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:19 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: elizabethzen on 01.02.2007 at 01:20 pm in Kitchens Forum Very cool! Your LEDs cast a beautiful light. Did you have LEDtronics make a custom strand for you? I don't see anything on their website with spacing (no space) like yours. Are these your lights in the link below?
Elizabeth Here is a link that might be useful: LEDtronics Tivoli NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:17 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:17 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #4)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 01:18 pm in Kitchens Forum It's definitely not blue C9pilot. But it's also not nearly as 'yellow' as it appears in the pics. They are, I believe in the yellow/amber family but in reality are a lot closer to 'true' light.(This was a huge fear of mine and why we fought over it...I didn't want 'fake' light) In reality I cannot distinguish a difference between these and say Xenons....and trust me, I was all set to see a difference and hate them. They really give off an appealing, true light. The yellow in the pics are from my camera I think...notice the other lights tend to yellow as well.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:15 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:16 am
RE: LED undercabs(Pics) (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 12:55 pm in Kitchens Forum Actually they are hardwired.(I've been living with dangling wires for a year) We've just been fighting over what type of light to use. DH tells me that most probably your electrician would have no problem snaking some wires for you, and in fact if you're fairly handy, you could do this yourself.The brand we used is LEDtronics.(But again, you do need a powersource)
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:14 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:15 am
LED undercabs(Pics)
posted by: ramses_2 on 01.02.2007 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum So finally after a year DH wore me down and it was pretty clear that if I wanted undercabs I would need to go with LEDs. I feared they'd be to harsh but strangely enough, I really like them. These aren't fantastic pics, in some the lights seem to almost glow. In reality they are a lovely light that's perfect for tasks and ambiance.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:12 am last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:13 am
RE: Converting base cabinet with hinged door into trash pull out (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: dmlove on 01.09.2007 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum That's the kind I have (also Rev-A-Shelf) and the only difference between your's and mine is that I knew which one I was going to use before I ordered the cabinets, so I ordered the cabinet box and a door without hinges, instead of a door with hinges. You'll just have to remove the hinges (there'll be a couple of holes on the inside, but so what). The hardware comes with the unit. Depending on the type of cabinet door you have (slab, recessed panel, raised panel, ec.), you may need to use the "door extender kit" -- we did and it works perfectly. Here's a picture of mine:
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 10:17 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 10:17 pm
RE: Talk to me about Pasta Drawers! (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: alku05 on 01.09.2007 at 02:00 pm in Kitchens Forum Quiltdog, do you have Home Depot or a Lowes nearby? Our HD has pasta drawers in their model kitchens. Go have a good look, remember to take your camera and sneek a few pictures.
From what I remember, the drawer front is framed with a clear panel. About an inch or so behind the drawer front is a wood panel that acts as a divider that separated the decorative fill area from the drawer storage area. The decorative fill area was left open on top with no way to close it off. HTH! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 10:08 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 10:09 pm
RE: Talk to me about Pasta Drawers! (Follow-Up #7)
posted by: lyfia on 01.09.2007 at 02:31 pm in Kitchens Forum OK Here is how I would build one. have a regular drawer (dovetail) that has an opening in the front, but a lower and upper rail. Opening covering the glass area. The rails to attache the drawer front that has the glass. Then route a grove to put a divider a couple of inches from the edge to fill with whatever and then the back of the drawer can be used for other stuff.
Also the drawer front should attach to the rails with screws. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 10:08 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 10:08 pm
RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: jakuvall on 01.09.2007 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum Few choices...
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=891-707 http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=143-594 http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?deptid=1271 NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:59 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:59 pm
RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #5)
posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 01.09.2007 at 08:56 pm in Kitchens Forum Hi,
I used Restoration Hardware hinges. The size I chose was 2 1/2 x 2. This allowed easier installation than the 2 1/2 x 1 3/4 size. The price is kind of up there, but so's the quality. They come with matching slotted screws. They are difficult to install, and you get one chance to get it right (no adjustment). My doors were 3/16 smaller than the openings, so the margin is theoretically 3/32" on each side. Casey Here is a link that might be useful: RH ball tip hinges NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:58 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:59 pm
RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #1)
posted by: eandhl on 01.09.2007 at 02:15 pm in Kitchens Forum No picture to share but we have mortised. Our gap is about 1/8 inch. It gets smaller in the summer.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:58 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:58 pm
RE: inset cabinet hinge help needed please (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: jakuvall on 01.09.2007 at 05:37 pm in Kitchens Forum FWIW Wood-Mode uses a non mortised hinge, ball tip, sits exactly on the gap which is specked at 3/32"
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:57 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:57 pm
inset cabinet hinge help needed please
posted by: gunderson1909 on 01.09.2007 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum Those of you with inset cabinets:
What type of hinges were used? mortised, non-mortised, etc. How big is the gap between door and frame? Can you share close-ups of your hinges please. Maybe a long-shot and a close-up if possible. Do you know who made your hinges? We want ball tipped style. The contractor is lobbying for non-mortised since they are easier to install and can be adjusted. It looks like they will create a bigger gap. Some gap may be needed anyway for changes in the wood. The ones he likes best also sit a bit more over the cabinet than right on the gap. It is so hard to know how the hinges will impact the look and use. This was just brought up to me now and they cannot cut the doors and install them until we have hinges. Any info or advice is greatly appreciated. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 09:56 pm last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 09:56 pm


text:
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text:
Novak Djokovic takes title in 4 sets
Cross-Sport Power Rankings: Novak Djokovic Nets Number One
MELBOURNE, Australia -- No shirt ripping or bare-chested flexing this time.
Novak Djokovic completed his work before midnight, defeating Andy Murray in four sets for his third consecutive Australian Open title and fourth overall.
It was also the second time in three years Djokovic had beaten his longtime friend in this final. So the celebration was muted: a small victory shuffle, raised arms, a kiss for the trophy. No grand histrionics, although that's not to say the moment was lost on him.
"Winning it three in a row, it's incredible," Djokovic said after his 6-7 (2), 7-6 (3), 6-3, 6-2 victory Sunday night. "It's very thrilling. I'm full of joy right now. It's going to give me a lot of confidence for the rest of the season, that's for sure."
Nine other men had won consecutive Australian titles in the Open era, but none three straight years. One of them was Andre Agassi, who presented Djokovic with the trophy.
A year ago, Djokovic began his season with an epic 5-hour, 53-minute five-set win over Rafael Nadal at the Australian Open, the longest Grand Slam final. He tore off his shirt to celebrate, the TV replays repeated constantly at this tournament.
He mimicked that celebration after coming back to beat Stanislas Wawrinka in five hours in a surprisingly tough fourth-round victory this time.
Since then, he's looked every bit the No. 1 player. He said he played "perfectly" in his 89-minute win over fourth-seeded David Ferrer in the semifinals Thursday night. Murray struggled to beat 17-time major winner Roger Federer in five sets in the semifinals Friday night, and still had the bad blisters on his feet to show for it in the final.
In a final that had the makings of a classic when two of the best returners in tennis were unable to get a break of serve in the first two sets that lasted 2:13, the difference may have hinged on something as light as a feather.
Ford: A Rivalry -- In The Making
No one gave an inch for more than two hours before Novak Djokovic took advantage of Andy Murray's vulnerability and snagged another Australian Open title, Bonnie D. Ford writes. Story
Preparing for a second serve at 2-2 in the second set tiebreaker, Murray was rocking back about to toss the ball when he stopped, paused and then walked onto the court and tried to grab a small white feather that was floating in his view. He went back to the baseline, bounced the ball another eight times and served too long.
After being called for a double-fault, Murray knocked the ball away in anger and flung his arm down. He didn't get close for the rest of the tiebreaker and was the first to drop serve in the match -- in the eighth game of the third set. Djokovic broke him twice in the fourth set, which by then had turned into an easy march to victory.
"It was strange," said Djokovic, adding that it swung the momentum his way. "It obviously did. ... He made a crucial double-fault."
Murray didn't blame his loss on the one distraction.
"I mean, I could have served. It just caught my eye before I served. I thought it was a good idea to move it," he said. "Maybe it wasn't because I obviously double-faulted.
"You know, at this level it can come down to just a few points here or there. My biggest chance was at the beginning of the second set -- didn't quite get it. When Novak had his chance at the end of the third, he got his."
Grand Slam Winners Since 2008
Only Rafael Nadal has more Grand Slam titles than Novak Djokovic since 2008, when the current No. 1 player in the world won the first of his four Australian Open championships.
Player | Titles |
Rafael Nadal | 8 |
Novak Djokovic | 6 |
Roger Federer | 5 |
Andy Murray | 1 |
Juan Martin del Potro | 1 |
-- ESPN Stats & Information |
Djokovic had five break-point chances in the opening set, including four after having Murray at 0-40 in the seventh game, but wasn't able to convert any of them.
Then he surrendered the tiebreaker with six unforced errors. Murray appeared to be the stronger of the two at the time. He'd beaten Djokovic in their last Grand Slam encounter, the U.S. Open final, and had the Serb so off balance at times in the first set that he slipped to the court and took skin off his knee.
Murray held serve to open the second set and had three break points at 0-40 in the second game, but Djokovic dug himself out of trouble and held.
"After that I felt just mentally a little bit lighter and more confident on the court than I've done in the first hour or so," Djokovic said. "I was serving better against him today in the first two sets than I've done in any of the match in the last two years."
Djokovic said he loves playing at Rod Laver Arena, where he won his first major title in 2008. He now has six Grand Slam titles altogether. Federer has won four of his 17 majors at Melbourne Park, and Agassi is the only other player to have won that many in Australia since 1968.
Djokovic was just finding his way at the top level when Agassi retired in 2006, but he had watched enough of the eight-time major winner to appreciate his impact.
"He's I think one of the players that changed the game -- not just the game itself, but also the way the people see it," Djokovic said. "So it was obviously a big pleasure and honor for me to receive the trophy from him."
Agassi was among the VIPs in the crowd, along with actor Kevin Spacey and Victoria Azarenka, who won the women's final in three sets against Li Na the previous night.
Murray broke the 76-year drought for British men at the majors when he won the U.S. Open last year and said he'll leave Melbourne slightly more upbeat than he has after defeats here in previous years.
"The last few months have been the best tennis of my life. I mean, I made Wimbledon final, won the Olympics, won the U.S. Open. You know, I was close here as well," he said. "No one's ever won a slam (immediately) after winning their first one. It's not the easiest thing to do. And I got extremely close.
"So, you know, I have to try and look at the positives of the last few months, and I think I'm going the right direction."
Copyright 2013 by The Associated Press
- Berdych ousts No. 3 Nadal in Aussie quarters
- Sharapova cruises to semis, will face Makarova
- Been there, done that: Ex-pros aid young stars
- Keys bests Brengle in battle of Madisons
Australian Open 2013 -- Jan. 13-Jan. 27
2012 champions
Women's singles:
Victoria Azarenka
Men's singles:
Novak Djokovic
Women's doubles:
Svetlana Kuznetsova and Vera Zvonareva
Men's doubles:
Leander Paes and Radek Stepanek
Mixed doubles:
Bethanie Mattek-Sands and Horia Tecau
Follow us on Twitter »
Watch on ESPN
Australian Open website »
Day 14
• Djokovic wins third straight Aussie title
• Ford: Aussie Open is Djokovic's house
• Ford: Bryan Bros -- Nice guys finish first
• Djokovic beats Murray in three sets
Day 13
• Azarenka beats Li in three sets to win Aussie
• Ford: Azarenka shows resiliency in title
• Tandon: Expect pain in Djokovic-Murray
• Bodo: Djoker, Murray matc too close to call
• Azarenka wins Australian Open
Day 12
• Murray stops Federer in five sets
• Ford: Murray running head first at excellence
• Ford: Agassi angered by Armstrong
• Tandon: Villain versus comedian in final
• Bodo: Li Na returns to where it all began
• Bryant: In sports, you better believe
• Murray beats Federer in five sets
• Digital Serve: Women's final preview
Day 11
• Recap: Men | Women
• Ford: Azarenka win comes with controversy
• Ford: Short work is just what Djoker needed
• Tandon: Fed-Murray outcome to close to call
• Highlight: Azarenka beats Stephens
• Azarenka on controversial loss
• Li Na crushes Sharapova
• Li's thoughts on reaching final
• Djokovic makes short work of Ferrer
• Digital Serve: Murray-Federer preview
Day 10
• Recap: Men | Women
• Ford: Stephens stuns Serena
• Ford: Fed reveling in memorable win
• Tandon: Serena-less semis wide open
• Bryant: Ace in the hole
• SportsNation vote: Who will win the semis?
• Digital Serve: Day 11 preview
• Serena Williams on her loss
• Highlight: Sloane shocks Serena
• Sloane-Serena analysis
• Sloane Stephens interview
• Azarenka vanquishes Kuznetsova
• Federer beats Tsonga in five sets
• Murray rolls over Chardy
Day 9
• Recap: Men | Women
• Ford: Djokovic's energy level just fine
• Ford: Ferrer fights for five-set comeback
• Tandon: Serena won't take Stephens lightly
• Li Na moves on to semifinals
• David Ferrer makes dramatic comeback
• Sharapova rolls over Makarova
• Digital Serve: Day 10 Preview
• IBM analytics improve Aussie experience
Day 8
• Recap: Men | Women
• Ford: Federer, again, silences the young
• Ford: Stephens battles her way into quarters
• Tandon: Novak Djokovic's power of recovery
• Victoria Azarenka on to quarters
• Azarenka talks about her win
• Kuznetsova upsets Wozniacki
• Stephens' comical postmatch interview
• Digital Serve: Day 9 preview


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Chiefs fans,
Have you given up all hope already? Have you already jumped ship and lost all hope in this season? As a true Chiefs fan, I have yet to give up hope. Sure, the Chiefs are 0-3. So are the Dolphins, Rams, and Vikings, and the Colts. Why? There are hundreds of reasons between these five teams as to why the are all winless. If you told me at the beginning of the season that there would still be five winless teams that didn't include Detroit, Buffalo, or Cincinnati, I would have laughed in your face. Now, I can see all these reasons. Injuries, unpreparedness, whatever the case may be, I am still very surprised that five teams are winless.
The Chiefs and Colts have had major injury problems, the Chiefs moreso than the Colts. However, it is very hard to lose the quarterback that your whole playcalling system is built around. I have heard the arguments that football players should be "tougher than that" and some even say with all the training they have had they should be "invincible". But we all know injuries happen. Tom Brady went down three years ago which opened the door for Matt Cassel. Drew Bledsoe went down which opened it for Brady. Its all a cycle. Injuries happen, players come in and substitute, some prosper, some fail. The Colts without Peyton Manning are proving everyone's worst fear, that they are not a top-notch NFL team without him. The Colts just can't produce without Manning under center. Sure Indy looked better tonight, but so did the Chiefs today.
In Cassel's case, he prospered in New England. He came to Kansas City and everyone was excited because the Chiefs finally had a "proven franchise quarterback" who has led a team to 10+ wins. Given, it was with the Patriots. He then came to Kansas City and struggled in year one. During the course of that season, Kansas City had a new head coach, new playcalling scheme, a whole new front office system, everything. The staff suggested and the media called it "growing pains". Last year, the Chiefs won the AFC West. Everyone please, let's take a moment to let this sink in. AFC WEST CHAMPIONS. Given the fact that the Oakland Raiders swept the divison, and San Diego was favored to win it, the Chiefs still came out on top. Why? Some will say weak schedule. Some will say Charlie Weis. Some will say fluke. Whatever it is, it happened. It is history. It cannot be changed. The Chiefs will always be the 2010 AFC West Champions. What are the reasons why we have lost our last 9 games, counting the preseason? Lay blame wherever you see fit. Whether it is Matt Cassel, Todd Haley, Scott Pioli, Bill Muir, the football gods, whoever you feel the most comfortable blaming. Lets take a look at this a little deeper than most will.
Let us begin with Matt Cassel. Oh Matt, how you disappointed us today. (Anyone catch a hint of sarcasm?) You went 17 of 24 with 2 touchdowns, a 70.8% completion rate, and a 102.1 passer rating, which would have been higher without the single interception that cost us the game. Case #1: "Matt Cassel is a terrible quarterback and a horrible decision maker." Of course, what most "fans" don't realize is your passer rating was high that Tom Brady, Drew Brees, Ryan Fitzpatrick, Mark Sanchez, Ben Roethlisberger, Matt Ryan, and even your head-to-head opponent Philip Rivers. Case#2: "Ok, Cassel had a higher passer rating; but he only threw 24 passes." Sure, all seven of these quarterbacks threw 35+ passes. But of all eight, Cassel was the most accurate. Case #3: "He hasn't shown his $63 million contract value." Sure, the past three weeks have been very slow offensively. 27 points on offense in three weeks is not very good. But so far this season, Cassel's overall completion percentage is 65.9%, higher than 2009 (55.0%) AND 2010 (58.2%). Case #4: "Cassel isn't a leader on the field: He has no leadership skills." Here's a quote I found in an article on Scout.com called "Coach Cassel" by Josh Scotten dated June 17, 2011, during the early summer just about a month prior to the lockout being lifted about just how much Matt Cassel wants the Chiefs to succeed. "Matt's a guy that is the leader of our team," says Chiefs starting linebacker Derrick Johnson. "We definitely follow him. He's stepping up. Our hats are off to him. He wants to get better, that's his whole motto." He was first in the locker room during OTA's, and the last to leave. You cannot tell me that is not dedication to your football team.
Case #5: "Cassel chokes under pressure." Sure, his decision making at the end of the San Diego game was not great. The play call was not terrible, but it was also not a game-winning-drive type of play call. This is where I blame Bill Muir. (Note, I do NOT blame Todd Haley for this call.) When a team is down by three within the last two minutes of the game, what are do you expect they do? Throw it downfield. Which is exactly what Cassel did on the 24 yard pass right down the middle to Leonard Pope that put the Chiefs in very good position to score. Now, the Chargers were putting pressure on Cassel all game. Why in the WORLD would Muir call a short dump pass to McCluster out of the backfield when the Chiefs needed to gain about 10-15 more yards to put Ryan Succop in position to kick a game-tying field goal? Or why did he not continue to air the ball out down the field where the Chargers looked weak in the 4th quarter? Your guess is as good as mine. Whether Cassel saw Eric Weddle or not does not change the fact that the playcalling was horrendous. My take on Bill Muir is that he is an offensive line coach who is lacking emphasis on the "Line". I don't know if he really understand the process of calling plays in the NFL. For most of the first half, these 2011 Chiefs looked like the 1999 Chiefs, even the 2008 Chiefs. Each drive seemed to go in this order: Run, Run, Pass, Punt. Beautiful mix of plays by Muir. Coach Haley if you read this, please, I'm begging you, turn the playcalling over to Jim Zorn. At least he understands situational playcalling. Let Muir go back to focusing on the offensive line for the rest of the season. We need all the help we can get there.
In summary of Matt Cassel, if he continues to play the way he is playing, he will be a great quarterback. If he continues to make the few poor decisions in key moments of the football game, he will not.
On to Head Coach Todd Haley. Head Coach means so many things. Look at the great head coaches of the Chiefs. Hank Stram, Marty Schottenheimer, Dick Vermeil. Each of them had a personality and a work ethic about them that just made fans feel confident that the team was a winner, even in the years they were not. Schottenheimer led us to five straight years of playoff appearances in the early 1990′s. He could have won a Super Bowl in 1997-1998 had he left Elvis Grbac on the bench and played Rich Gannon throughout the playoffs, but that is a whole different story. Dick Vermeil made Chiefs fans believe he had everything under control, which most of the time he did. He made the players work and strive to be the best.
What do you think Coach Haley is doing? Haley is trying to make each player on his team be the best athlete he can be. Since firing Herm Edwards, Todd Haley has worked the whole team hard, the biggest of stories being that the Chiefs team as a whole dropped 338 pounds between the 2009-2010 seasons, and it showed. The team seemed faster and had more endurance than the Chiefs teams of 2007-2008. If Coach Haley had all offseason to work with the team on conditioning, everything might have been different. Less injuries? Possibly. More stamina on the field? Most definitely? A win already? Absolutely. But the team looks sluggish. The offensive line is struggling to move around, like they sat on their couch at home eating potato chips playing Madden 11 and praying they would have a job this fall. What happened to "Chiefs Will"? Sure, it was the theme of the 2010 training camp, but why couldn't it carry over into 2011? I don't blame the players, they can't help that they didn't have any reason to work out. I also don't blame them for getting hurt. I blame the lockout. There was no football conditioning which in turn caused the players to get used to not being hit. I do, however, blame Coach Haley for not making training camp as strenuous for the players. Given, they had three months of catching up to do in a matter of two weeks before the Tampa bay game, but they still could have done more to work on the basics: tackling, catching, passing, running, shedding blocks and tackles, and kicking accuracy. But with the new offensive scheme coming into play, the team had to focus more on learning the playbook rather than the basics, which I believe inevitably hurt them team.
I dont believe Haley is doing a bad job. I just think there are some things in the coaching phase of the game that could improve. Playcalling and execution being the main improvements.
Fans, do you know why the Chiefs seem to be feeling down? It's because most of the "devoted fans" have jumped ship and abandoned this season after three games. Three games. Three out of 17 games. With 13 games left to go, and a fairly tough schedule ahead, some fans are feeling as if the team can't win and won't win a game this year. I call bull. The way the Chiefs played against San Diego (in San Diego, mind you) gives me confidence that we can win the next two weeks and be 2-3 going into the bye week. The Chiefs come home to Arrowhead to play the winless Vikings, then travel to Indianapolis to play the Manning-less Colts. All three teams, KC, Minny, and Indy, have improved greatly this week, all losing by only three points. If the Chiefs can continue their rise, then they will be 2-3 at the bye week.
As a truly devoted fan, I also REFUSE to join the #Suck4Luck campaign floating around on twitter and facebook. I understand fans are upset and they have every right, because I am too. But I don't feel like intentionally losing games to get Andrew Luck from Stanford will fix all our problems. Here's a scenario if we did lose all 16 games.
January 1: Kansas City, 0-16, will have the 1st pick in the 1st round of the 2012 NFL Draft. January 2nd: Kansas City fires Head Coach Todd Haley. February 9th: Kansas City Chiefs announce Romeo Crennel as the new Chiefs Head Coach (unless Cowher decided to come available, which I highly doubt.) February 24th: Romeo Crennel announces Jim Zorn as Offensive Coordinator/ QB Coach. April 21st (or whatever day the draft begins), Kansas City Chiefs select Andrew Luck with 1st pick. Next day, Kansas City Chiefs select Offensive Tackle (to be named later) and Defensive End (also to be named later) in the 2nd and 3rd round, respectively. Luck spends all summer trying to learn the playbook from the 4th offensive coordinator in four years in Kansas City, the 3rd in three years for Luck. Cassel beats out Luck for starting job for preseason and for around 4 games in the regular season unless Cassel plays poorly earlier. Luck takes Chiefs to 6-10, throwing 20 TD's and 25 INT's in his first season in the NFL.
Look at the previous five quarterbacks taken first overall. 2011, Cam Newton. Great performances in his first two games, yet one win to show for it over fellow rookie quarterback Blaine Gabbert. 2010, Sam Bradford. Really coming on in his second year, yet no wins to show for it so far this season. 2009, Matt Stafford. Finally showing his first round skill, and as long as he stays healthy, his third season will be his best yet. 2007, Jamarcus Russell. We all know how that worked out for the Raiders. 2005, Alex Smith. Smith has not lived up to his first round expectations in San Francisco. Not sure if he will either. He shows sparks of a winner at times, but they end up getting washed out by bad decisions.
I just can't see Andrew Luck solving the problems and being the saving grace in Kansas City.
I want to hear what my fellow Chiefs fans think. Please comment and let me know what you feel about the season yet to be played, why Luck would be the saving grace, or whatever your heart desires.
In closing, I will ALWAYS support my Chiefs. Through good or bad, wins or losses, I will still support and love my Chiefs. I would hope all my fellow fans feel the same. If you don't and feel like jumping ship, go for it. We don't need fans like you anyway.


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Order Line 0330 123 4123
Product Code: 158245
Bevelled groove on 4 sides creates effect of a real wood floor and sense of space
£7.99 per SQM
Bevelled groove on 4 sides creates effect of a real wood floor and sense of space
"This laminate is much more faded in colour than the photo shows which was the first thing I noticed. If it wasn't for the fact that I had waited 7 days I would have sent all 10 packs back! This floor is definitely OVERPRICED and If I hadn't run out of laminate half way through I wouldn't buy this again. Also the boards do not click together so not the best quality either. I do NOT recommend."
"I have laid quite a lot of laminate flooring in the past, but must say this was the easiest by far, it went together real easy, The quality of the laminate is superb, i never had a single damaged board in 10 packs, RECOMMEND"
"I have laid several laminate floorings over the years many that have a lot more expensive without the quality of this laminate! This flooring has been the easiest to lay and the quality have been very good. Wear and tear is fantastic, one room has had this flooring in for 3 years and still looks brand new even after having a office chair rolling across it for years!! I will be buying this for my sons room now which now makes the 5th room in my house.. Well worth it's money. The more expensive nasty laminate manufactures could learn something from this product"
"Excellent quality, looks fab. We found it easy to lay could be done by one person. We have now used this in two rooms and a similar one in a third room. We will definatly buy and use again."
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"Very good! I made it exactly how the recipe stated. But it would have been better if my best friend from Utah could have ate some with me while we caught up on the last year. :) It is a very good, hearty chowder. Thanks for sharing Diggy!"
"Extra super yummy! My kids really liked this. If you like chili, and bread, you'll like this chili on a bun combo. My suggestion is to nix the bread and butter pickles. They really take away from the chili flavor."


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A thrilling space adventure game with seven stellar planets.
The year is 2120 and you are a surveyor for the galactic alliance. Your job is to travel to distant worlds to map the strange new territories for future generations. Beware though of other strange forms of life you may encounter on your way , they may be hostile. You are the best of the best, so you will have no problem surviving this SPACE FRONTIER!!!
7 originally scored music tracks created entirely on the iPad 2 with GarageBand
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Kate Middleton's Maternity Style
Despite being five months pregnant, the Duchess of Cambridge recycled the same green coat she wore the year before for the St Patrick's Day parade. But this year, the expectant princess ditched the belt and appeared to have let a button out to create a more bump-friendly empire waist.
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Nike Air Yeezy 2 Wolf Grey/Pure Platinum Detailed Images
Black Friday 2011. March 2012. April 2012. It seems like the highly-anticipated Air Yeezy 2 has been set to release forever, yet it has not been released and there is currently no official date (though there have been rumors of a June 2012 release). However, thanks to MikeyMan14 on Twitter, a bunch of detailed pictures of the Wolf Grey/Pure Platinum colorway and its accessories have been unleashed on the web. In this set, you will get a nice look at the horus logo on the tongue, the futuristic heel, the snakeskin pattern on the back-side, the glow-in-the-dark outsole, the removable lace-tips, the dustbag, and more. Check out the galleries of the shoe itself and its accessories on Sneaker News now, and stay tuned to Sole Camp for whenever official release information on the Air Yeezy 2 is finally revealed.


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Vizcaya - Longboat Key Condos
Address: | 2333, 2377 & 2399 Gulf of Mexico Drive, Longboat Key, FL 34228 |
# of Units: | 31 |
Year built: | 1997 |
Minimum lease: | 3 month |
Lease/year: | 2 |
Square Feet: | 2,499 - 6,021 square feet |
Beach or Bay: | Beach |
Prices: | View Sold Vizcaya Condos |
Vizcaya Condos For Sale - Updated Daily!
All Listings | Over $1,000,000 |
Directly On The Gulf W/sunwashed Beach. Truly A Paradise...
- Price:
- $2,775,000
- City:
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- Beds:
- 3
- Baths:
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- Type:
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- Provider:
- Surfside Properties
Directly On The Gulf W/sunwashed Beach. Truly A Paradise For The Discriminating Buyer. Private Elevator...
Vizcaya - Luxury Living in the Sun and Sand
The essence of luxury is felt every single time you peek through your window. Undeniably, as you draw your curtains to make way for the breeze and the sunlight, you feel the surge of the three elements defining the luxury you are now enjoying: exclusivity, elegance and virtual world dominion.
Everything accounts of how luxury is best identified with one of the world's best condominiums that is so cleverly located in the State of Florida. Relax, unwind and experience the Florida heat with Vizcaya Longboat Key condominium.
Tucked and completely secured in a hidden paradise, the complex is made up of three four-storey buildings; the homey village-like condominium is bequeathed with the perks the whole bunch of family can enjoy. Frolic and enjoy amongst yourselves especially when you check out the spectacular view that surrounds you. Bedecked with trees and shrubs to give you a soothing and pleasant vibe, the condo promises nothing but the good life.
Lighten up and feel the sea breeze tickling your face and the sun offering its awe-inspiring rays early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Once you decide to stroll within or just outside the compound, you become drawn to the attractiveness of the place. Alluring and romantic, you just cannot resist appreciating the beauty unfolding in your presence. Indeed, the earth has its hidden paradise.
Built in 1997, the thirty one exclusive units present an enthralling atmosphere one could not resist. Indulge in the chic and the posh architectural designs offered. The large and spacious units pegged at 3,000 square feet are more than fabulousity at its finest. Move your hands and feel the walls of the units as they take you somewhere serene. Check out the furniture and discover the elegance they exude just to appease the residents' taste.
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Interestingly, the magnificent condo located at Longboat Key perfectly fits the adage, "Home is where the heart is". Vizcaya aptly portrays why residents keep coming back in this condo.
Now, what is basically required of you is to take your pick and comfort yourself with the idea that the luxury you have always dreamt of is staring at you right at this very moment.
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Mon, Feb 6, 12 at 12:39
March 2012
24-25 Collin Co The Garden Show @ Myers Park 31 Ellis Co Home and Garden Show 31 Burnett Hill Country Garden Show April 2012
May 2012
Plant Today For A Beautiful Tomorrow Brenda |
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Brenda , where is the Ellis co show being held |
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Waxahachie the expo center |
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Thank you I will plan on that One. |
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Feel free to post about upcoming garden events in Texas here too. |
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Home > About BNE > Press Room > 2011 Archive > April > CCSVI may be result, not cause, of MS CCSVI may be result, not cause, of MSBy LOIS BAKER, UB Reporter A just released UB study on the relationship between multiple sclerosis (MS) and chronic cerebrospinal venous insufficiency (CCSVI), a narrowing of the extracranial veins that restricts the normal outflow of blood from the brain, found that CCSVI may be a result of MS, not a cause. The study appears in the current issue of Neurology, the journal of the American Academy of Neurology. Robert Zivadinov, associate professor of neurology in the School of Medicine and Biomedical Sciences and president of the International Society for Neurovascular Disease, is first author on the paper. "Given the intense interest in the hypothesis that CCSVI is a possible cause of MS, independent evaluation of CCSVI was identified as an urgent need," Zivadinov says of the findings. "Our results indicate that only 56.1 percent of MS patients and 38.1 percent of patients with a condition known as clinically isolated syndrome (CIS), an individual's first neurological episode, had CCSVI. "While this may suggest an association between the MS and CCSVI, association does not imply causality. In fact, 42.3 percent of participants classified as having other neurological diseases (OND), as well as 22.7 percent of healthy controls involved in the study, also presented with CCSVI. "These findings indicate that CCSVI does not have a primary role in causing MS," says Zivadinov. "Our findings are consistent with increased prevalence of CCSVI in MS, but substantially lower than the sensitivity and specificity rates in MS reported originally by the Italian investigators." CCSVI is a complex vascular condition discovered and described by Paolo Zamboni of Italy's University of Ferrara. It is characterized by narrowing of vessels draining blood from the cranium. Zamboni hypothesized that this narrowing restricts the normal outflow of blood from the brain, resulting in alterations in the blood-flow patterns within the brain that eventually cause injury to brain tissue and degeneration of neurons, leading to MS. Zamboni's original investigation in a group of 65 patients and 235 controls showed that CCSVI appeared to be strongly associated with MS, increasing the risk of having MS by 43 fold. The results of the UB study are based on 499 participants in the Combined Transcranial and Extracranial Venous Doppler Evaluation (CTEVD) study, which began at the university in April 2009. The study group consisted of 289 persons with MS, 163 healthy controls, 26 with OND and 21 with CIS. MS patients also were defined by disease type: relapsing-remitting (RR), secondary progressive (SP), primary-progressive (PP), progressive-relapsing (PR) and MS with neuromyelitis optical (NMO)—a type of MS that affects the optic nerves and spinal cord exclusively. All patients underwent transcranial and extracranial echo-Doppler scans of the head and neck. Persons were considered "CCSVI-positive" if they met two or more of five venous hemodynamic (VH) criteria. Prevalence rates were calculated in three groupings: only subjects with positive and negative CCSVI diagnoses; only borderline cases included in the negative group; and subjects who fulfilled any of the five criteria. When only positive and negative CCSVI cases were considered, results showed a CCSVI prevalence of 62.5 percent in MS patients, 45.8 percent in those with OND, 42.1 percent in CIS and 25.5 percent in healthy controls. When borderline cases were included as negative for CCSVI, prevalence figures were 56.1 percent in MS patients, 42.3 percent in those with OND, 38.1 percent with CIS and 22.7 percent in healthy controls. When all cases that met at least one of the five VH criteria were included in the analysis, CCSVI prevalence was 81.3 percent in MS cases, 76.2 percent in CIS patients, 65.4 percent in OND cases and 55.2 percent in healthy controls. The highest prevalence was seen in relapsing primary-progressive MS (89.4 percent), followed by non-relapsing secondary-progressive MS (67.2 percent), NMO (66.6 percent), primary-progressive MS (54.5 percent) and relapsing-remitting MS (49.2 percent). CCSVI prevalence was substantially higher in progressive MS than in non-progressive MS patients. In addition, patients with a progressive MS disease subtype had higher CCSVI prevalence than those with non-progressive MS. "The higher prevalence of CCSVI in progressive MS patients suggests that CCSVI may be a consequence, rather than a cause of MS," says Bianca Weinstock-Guttman, co-principal investigator of the study and UB professor of neurology. Therefore, the possibility that CCSVI may be a consequence of MS progression cannot be excluded and should be further investigated. "Several studies have reported that patients with progressive MS show decreased blood flow through the brain's neuronal tissue, indicating that CCSVI may be secondary to reduced perfusion," says Weinstock-Guttman. "In addition, we recently showed an association between the severity of CCSVI and reduced cerebral blood flow in brain parenchyma of MS patients in an published pilot study." E. Ann Yeh, UB assistant professor of neurology and a major collaborator on the study, noted that of the 10 pediatric MS patients who participated in the study, five presented with CCSVI (50 percent), yielding prevalence similar to that in adult MS patients. "Although the sample size was too small to draw any firm conclusions, these results suggest that CCSVI is also present in children and is not the result of aging," she says. Adds Zivadinov: "The differences between our study, the original Italian CCSVI study and other recently published studies also emphasize the need for a multimodal approach for the assessment of CCSVI. In addition to Doppler sonography, use of selective venography, magnetic resonance venography and intraluminal Doppler methods can provide more evidence for the true prevalence of CCSVI in MS." Additional UB researchers involved in this research are Karen Marr, Murali Ramananthan, Ralph HB Benedict, Cheryl Kennedy, Makki Elfadil, Justine Reuther, Christina Brooks, Kristin Hunt, Michelle Andrews, Ellen Carl, Michael G. Dwyer and David Hojnacki. Gary Cutter of the Department of Biostatistics, University at Alabama-Birmingham, also played a critical role in the research. The study was supported by the Buffalo Neuroimaging Analysis Center, Baird MS Center and the Jacobs Neurological Institute, all from UB, as well as the Direct MS Foundation, the Jacquemin Family Foundation and more than 500 individual donors. |