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Materials List:
* lots of cardboard
* lots and lots of glue (wallpaper paste will also work and is affordable)
* a saw, preferably powered to save on labor
Gather Your Cardboard:
You will need a good amount of cardboard. Of coarse the amount will be determined by how much lumber you want to create. After seeing the entire post and what is needed to make various size pieces, you will have a better idea on the amount of cardboard you will need.
Cardboard is one of those materials that you can most definitely get for free and in large amounts. Places to visit are any corner store, grocery story, liquor shop, furniture store, appliance center, Walmart or any store you can think of. The retailers are only going to send it our for recycling anyway. So in most cases they will not have a problem with you recycling it for them at the same time giving you the material you need for your lumber. Always be sure to tell the retailer your getting the cardboard from what it will be used for. Knowing that it will be going into a "green" project will make them all that more willing to help you out.
Lets Get Started Already:
1) Cut your cardboard in to manageable widths as seen in the picture below.
2) Stack the cardboard till you get the desired height
3) Mix your glue. If you are using a powered glue or paste, now is the time to mix it up. Start by mixing up at least a gallon. In the original instructions, it was suggested you could buy wood glue by the gallon at your local hardware store and dilute it with water to a ratio of 1:1. Which ever glue you choose, try to only mix up what you think you can use to save on waste. Of coarse this determination of the exact amount needed will come with practice and experience as you add to your cardboard lumber collection.
4) Lay out your cardboard in your basement, garage or yard and using a paint roller start gluing the top side of your project. Carefully lay the next piece on top of the glued one and then glue the top of that piece and repeat till you used up all your pre-measured amount of cardboard.
Note: I would suggest putting each layer of the cardboard facing a different direction. This should give it strength as this is the same process used in making plywood.
5) Once you reached your desired thickness, clamp your project down using clamps on a table, or I what I find best is to lay a big piece of plywood over the top and then loading it up with weights evenly across the surface. Read the instructions on the glue you are using for drying times, then give it another hour or two past that just to be safe.
6) Using a straight edge, level or T-square, measure and cut your new lumber block into the finished length and width you desire.
That's it your done. You know have strong lumber made from recycling cardboard!
Here is a picture of a table project that was made with the cardboard lumber.
This how to I originally found on instructables.com and you can click on the link/name to see more great pictures and comments on this project. Credit for the pictures also goes to the author of the posts on instructables.com.
So there you have it, free lumber (almost) with little effort on your part. Now your lumber is ready for you to build with.
If you try to make your own cardboard lumber, comment here and let us know how you made out and any suggestions for improvements you might have.
Someone in another site I belong to posted this boat made of cardboard. Check it out!


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Have you ever wanted to do something a bit different? Are you harbouring a secret goal to run a marathon, walk the Great Wall of China, or do a sky dive? Well, the Jubilee Sailing Trust can help you fulfil some of those dreams while you help us, through your challenge, to raise much needed funds.
Superhero Fun Run 5k in London's Regent Park Sunday 18th May 2014. Open to anybody from the age of 8 upwards. The Jubilee Sailing Trust will have its own team of runners so you will not be alone whatever your level of fitness or ability!
SOLD OUT for the Virgin Money London Marathon. If you are interested for 2015 please call or email Danni Keenan on 023 8042 6868 or firstname.lastname@example.com
Only 3 spaces available, If you are reading this there is a space available so book your space quick! Take part in this fantastic event and raise money for the JST. Prudential RideLondon-Surrey 100 starts in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, then follows a 100-mile route on closed roads through the capital and into Surrey's stunning countryside. With leg-testing climbs and a route made famous by the world's best cyclists at the London 2012 Olympics, it's a truly spectacular event for all involved. Date: Sunday 10th August 2014 £50 Deposit (non refundable) Call 023 8042 6868 to book your space now Minimum Sponsorship: £500.
Book now for your 2014 Red Devil Tandem skydive for the Jubilee Sailing Trust Experience the adrenaline rush of tandem skydiving with the best in the business! The Jubilee Sailing Trust have reserved spaces for their fundraisers on the 6 August 2014 at Old Sarum Airfeld near Salisbury.
Run the BUPA 10K for the Jubilee Sailing Trust. Date: Sunday 25th May 2014 Start Time: 10:00 Start and Finish Line: The Mall, London Minimum Sponsorship: £175. Secure your space now for £25 call Danni Keenan at the Jubilee Sailing Trust on 023 8042 6868 with a debit/credit card.
The Jubilee Sailing Trust have reserved spaces for their fundraisers on Saturday 5th July at various times throughout the day. Abseil the Spinnaker Tower and raise funds for the Jubilee Sailing Trust. Date: Saturday 5th July 2014 £25 Deposit (non refundable) Call 023 8042 6868 to book your abseil. Minimum Sponsorship: £200
Adidas Silverstone Half Marathon
Run the Adidas Silverstone Half Marathon for the Jubilee Sailing Trust. Date: Sunday 2nd March 2014 Where: Silverstone Motor Racing Circuit Minimum Sponsorship: £300 Secure your space now for £25 call Danni Keenan at the Jubilee Sailing Trust on 023 8042 6868 with a debit/credit card.

subset: commoncrawl


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Rockland Program |
Rockland Program Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory |
The 2014 event was held March 21st, 2014 at Rockland Community College. Rockland P.L.U.S. 2014 engaged students in their immediate community. Rockland County is a diverse community made up of smaller towns and villages, each with a unique identity and set of factors to consider for future development projects. In these communities there are pockets of commercial and residential development that are thriving, and others that are hoping for new energy and revitalization. For Rockland P.L.U.S. 2014, we will look at Transit Oriented Development (TOD) with the high school student groups focused on revitalizing the block around their local train station to bring new energy to their towns and villages and to balance the three complementary process that make a community successful and sustainable - Social, Economic and Environmental (S.E.E.) Concerns. We encourage students to plan through linking these issues so they can really S.E.E. their community! Moving from their own community to the thruway corridor, at the the symposium Friday March 21, 2014 at SUNY Rockland Community College in Suffern, NY we will consider the reconstruction of the Tappan Zee Bridge and the future role that mass transit should and could play. For more information on this topic refer to the linked 2007 Tappan Zee Bridge Corridor Transit Study Report. For an excellent resource on moving people out of their cars and into mass transit check out these two short (less than 5 minute) videos from EMBARQ. Link to creative marketing ideas for mass transit. Link to New York City initiatives. Rockland PLUS involves three visits from our project team to your classroom. Students should review the following pages of the website, considering the questions there before the noted visit: Visit #1 - Home, Sustainable Planning, Background, Current Community Visit #2 - Planning Tools, Affordable Housing, Water Quality, Brownfields (if applicable) Visit #3 - Public Participation & SEQRA, Thinking Green In order to get a feel for the benefits of planning around TOD Putting it into Practice - The Lower Hudson Valley has developed a Regional Sustainability Planning website and have released a new Regional Sustainability Plan for the region. Land use and transportation, energy and water management, open space, agriculture, climate change mitigation are primary topics in their review. The Report Executive Summary and full report are an excellent review of the same concerns you are considering in your community.
Links Below to the Mini Case Study From Our Classroom Demonstration Links Below to Rockland's Event Day Forms & Information Below
The Rockland Program is made possible thanks to the commitment of the agencies below.


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He's playing a Joe Satriani piece, and it's really really complicated.
After this I'm going to a school, so we can check each other out and see what vacancy I could fill there next year. I really really want to work there, so I'm stressing that wont work out. Had two rejections in the mail yesterday, so not feeling enormously confident or anything.
Looking forward to the end of the morning...
Edited by cattivo lupo, 22 November 2012 - 09:13 AM.


text:
Solzhenitsyn article
passes in Cavendish
CAVENDISH Voters overwhelmingly passed an article Monday at town meeting to assume ownership of the Universalist Stone Church, which will hold an Alexander Solzhenitysn exhibit.
The article asked voters to accept the gift of the historic Universalist Church property at 2295 Main St. in Cavendish from the Universalist Unitarian Convention of Vermont and Quebec.
The building will be owned by the town and leased to the Cavendish Historical Society.
Margo Caulfield of the Cavendish Historical Society told voters they will use the church as a museum and as a small venue for concerts lectures, theater and more. The Preservation Trust of Vermont will work with an ad hoc committee to identify funds, write a master plan and select qualified professionals to work on the building.
Caulfield said it would cost taxpayers nothing except for insurance. The Universalist Unitarian Convention of Vermont and Quebec has agreed to deed the building to the town of Cavendish, May 11, she added.MORE IN This Just InStaff Report Full StoryThe Associated Press Full StoryPolice: Man robbed Full Story -
- Most Popular
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- RICHARD'S POOR ALMANACK: On this day, 1700, Cascadia Earthquake, Magnitude 9 plus, strikes West Coast with tsunami effects felt as far away as Japan; in 1885, troops loyal to Sudanese Mohammad Ahmad conquer Khartoum; in 1992, Boris Yeltsin untargets U.S.
- RICHARD'S POOR ALMANACK: On this day in 971 AD, Southern Han war elephant corps defeated by Song Dynasty troops bowmen; in 1870, Montana, Marias massacre, U.S. kills 173 Native Americans; in 1941, Charles Lindbergh recommends neutrality pact with Nazis.
- TOMORROW'S HEADLINES TODAY: Bryanna Allen reports Castleton Downtown hosts open house, fire in Springfield leaves family without a roof of their own, suspected Bosnian war criminal trial goes to jury, Brent Curtis reports Rutland Town budget set to rise.
- TOMORROW'S HEADLINES TODAY: Bill in Legislature proposes naming beagle Vermont state dog; Associated Press looks back at year in opiate abuse; Shapiro's in Brandon soon to close after 75 years; probe shows illegal online gun sales booming.
- RICHARD'S POOR ALMANACK: On this day in 1861, JEFFERSON DAVIS resigns from the U.S. Senate to become president of the Confederate States of America, in 1908, NYC passes law forbidding women from smoking in public; in 1968, B-52 crashes, loses H-bomb.


text:
Drat! My Borat has fallen flat
PM's diplomatic gaffe on Kazakh visit
DAVID Cameron risked a diplomatic gaffe in Kazakhstan yesterday — by admitting he had seen the film Borat.
He is the first serving British Prime Minister to visit the country, made famous by Sacha Baron Cohen's comic creation.


text:
I'm being cared for by:
Homeward Bound
Facts about Ringo
- Breed: Labrador Retriever/German Shepherd Dog Mix
- Color: Black
- Age: Adult
- Size: Large 61-100 lbs (28-45 kg)
- Sex: Male
My name is Ringo!
Ringo's Info...
I am already neutered, housetrained, up to date with shots, good with kids, and good with dogs.
Hi! My name is Ringo. I am a 4 year old Labrador Retriever/German Shepherd mix. I am great with other dogs and LOVE kids! I can sit and shake so I guess you could say I am a complete gentleman! Car rides are my favorite!!
I'm looking for a loving, forever home where I have lots of room to run and play. Could it be yours?
I am up to date on my vaccinations, neutered, wormed and microchipped.
My adoption fee is $150.00. If you are interested in me, please go to www.hbky.org and download an application. Once complete, email the application to email@example.com. If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 859-490-0486.
Homeward Bound has adoption events in the Lexington, KY and Richmond, KY areas almost every weekend. Please feel free to visit us on FaceBook at Homeward Bound Canine Rescue and Rehabilitation for current adoption event news as well as updates on our available pets.
Thank you for stopping by!
About Homeward Bound
About Our Rescue Group...
Homeward Bound provides assistance to local high kill shelters by placing dogs in forever homes as opposed to euthanizing them. We provide assistance to numerous animal control officers in caring for abused, neglected, injured & aggressive dogs in need of emergency care until rehabilitated and placed in a safe rescues or homes. We also provide transport to various recues from high kill shelters.We require potential adopters to fill out an application. Vet checks and references are checked. If the screening process is passed than the adoption is finalized.We have adoption events every weekend in Lexington and Richmond, KY area. So please join our facebook page in order to follow our upcoming adoption events.
Come Meet Our Pets...
We have adoption events every weekend in Lexington, KY and Richmond, KY area. So please join our facebook page in order to follow our upcoming adoption events.Facebook page: www.facebook.com/pages/Homeward-Bound...London-Ky/


text: Hello, I'm new to this site. I will be taking my son to WDW for the first time in Feb. He will be 5. I have not been there since 1994, so many things have changed since i've been there. My question is do I have to stay at the contemp. resort to go to the chef mickey meal?:mickey:


text:
For the past 26 years each Spring Semester, LCSC hosts Native American Awareness Week, which is designed for the general public, LCSC students, faculty, and staff. During NAAW, activities begin Tuesday with a mini powwow and all the area 4th grade classes are invited. Wednesday and Thursday feature a variety of speakers addressing subjects such as tribal sovereignty, health issues, and Indian education. On Thursday evening there is a friendship banquet. The friendship Banquet is the time when the NAMSS recognizes all the Natvie American students who received scholarships for the year but also the Native American students select an elder for a Life Time Achievement Award. The week ends with a powwow on Friday evening.
Note: 2015 agenda hasn't been finalized.
7:00pm - 8:30 pm Mentor Artis Playwright Project - Lapwai High School Students. (Plays read by Professional Actors) - ADM THEA
10:00am - 11:15am Mini Powwow - area Fourth Grade Classes are invited - ACC GYM
9:00am - 10:15am "Tim'neepe Heart of the Monster" - featuring a documentary by Patricia Keith, Professor Emeritus of English at LCSC and discussion with Director: Harold Crook & Producer, Writer, Co-Director: Angel Sobotta - WCC
10:30am - 11:45am Meet the Authors of "Lewis & Clark Among the Nez Perce" - discussion with Steve Evans and Alen Pinkham - WCC
12:00pm - 1:15pm "Of Native Women: Tradition, Tragedy, Justice" - Dr. Janis Johnson, Professor of English & American Indian Studies, University of Idaho - in collaboration with Women's History Month - WCC
1:30pm - 2:45pm Building Community Through Wellness - Nez Perce Tribe Health Representatives. WCC
6:00-7:30pm "The Lost Brother - Lamprey Eels" - a documentary by the Nez Perce Tribe Fisheries and the Columbia River Intertribal Fish Commission - reception at 5:30pm - WCC Flyer
9:00am - 10:15am Native American Student Panel Discussion on the Mascot Issue - WCC
10:30am - 11:45am "Nez Perce History - a focus on the Place, Names and Stories" - featuring Nez Perce Elder Alan Pinkham and Josiah Pinkham, Cultural Resources Ethnographer for the Nez Perce Tribe - WCC
1:30pm - 2:45pm Meet the Author of "How to say I Love You in Indian" - discussion with Gyasi Ross
4:00pm - 5:30pm Native American Alumni Chapter Meeting & Social - ACC Conf 1
6:00pm - 9:00pm Friendship Banquet - NAAW Lifetime Achievement Award, the Isaac "Ike" Wilson Memorial Scholarship and other scholarships will be presented - WCC
7:00pm - 12:00am LCSC Powwow - ACC GYM


text:
(A) A consolidated elected taxpayer group is formed by an election pursuant to section 5751.011 of the Revised Code. To make the election, the group must register as such a taxpayer. Even if the group's total taxable receipts are below $150,000, with or without taking into account gross receipts excluded because they are from other members of the group, the group must still pay the flat (minimum) tax.of $150.
(1) A combined taxpayer group exists pursuant to the requirements of R.C. 5751.012 of the Revised Code. This group is not formed by an election. Accordingly, if the group's total taxable receipts are below $150,000, such group is not required to register or pay the flat (minimum) tax.
(2) Within 30 days of having taxable gross receipts of $150,000 or more, such combined taxpayer group must register for, and is subject to, the commercial activity tax.
Effective: 12/30/2005
R.C. 119.032 review dates: 12/30/2010
Promulgated Under:
Authority: 5703.05
Amplifies: 5751.01 ,
5751.011 ,


text:
Valve is hiring hardware engineers
"Help us invent whole new gaming experiences".
Valve boss Gabe Newell's recent interview with Penny Arcade made it quite clear that that the company is definitely interested in making hardware – what that is, though, is for us to guess. A month or so back, the company was involved in two rumors, one for a console-like-PC called Steambox, and the second for a weird control-pad that had swappable components. Valve refused to comment on both, saying they were "long way" away from manufacturing any sort of hardware.
However, a recent job listing suggest that Valve is actively developing something hardware-related and are looking for engineers to help them "invent whole new gaming experiences".
Here's what the job description reads like:
"For years, Valve has been all about writing software that provides great gameplay experiences. Now we're developing hardware to enhance those experiences, and you can be a key part of making that happen. Join our highly motivated team that's doing hardware design, prototyping, testing, and production across a wide range of platforms. We're not talking about me-too mice and gamepads here – help us invent whole new gaming experiences."
Valve is known to use biometrics and all sorts of science-tery in developing its games, and we wouldn't be surprised if they put that experience into developing advanced game pads and controllers that could provide a whole new level of immersion and accuracy. This definitely looks interesting.


text:
Ackerman says the coalition would like to see the CBI's fugitive task force made permanent and its duties expanded even further. Even now, the CBI has a budget request working its way through the governor's administrative review process. If things go smoothly, the request, which asks for salaries for five agents and a secretary, will be part of the appropriations bill presented to the legislature next year.
For now, however, the task force has more than enough cases to worry about. Its members are hopeful that the legislature will recognize the work they've done. But the legislature must also address a critical question: whether it makes sense to give money to the CBI without also toughening halfway-house admission standards and the penalties for escape.
Part of the problem, says Jaquay, is that community corrections boardmembers want desperately to believe that if they accept an inmate into a halfway-house program, the offender will go on to live a productive life.
"Reformation is a religion," Jaquay says. "Like salvation. [The boards] see the inmates sitting across the table, and they have their scrubbed, polite face on. They don't have to catch them face to face in a basement with a gun.


text:
K2 obSETHed Skin
0 reviews
4-star: 0
3-star: 0
2-star: 0
1-star: 0
4-star: 0
3-star: 0
2-star: 0
1-star: 0
Manufacturer's Description
Visit K2's obSETHed Skin page.
Retailers' Descriptions
Here's what other sites are saying:
Designed exclusively for the K2 ObSETHed and MissDirected skis (sold separately), these K2 climbing skins feature an innovative attachment system to reduce weight and friction. Z Clip tip attachments hook onto the holes at the tips of K2 skis; sleek design keeps weight low and helps prevent snow from building up where the skins meet the skis. Adjustable tail straps interface with the tail holes on K2 skis to secure the skins; clips sit on top of the skis rather than at the back to reduce drag. Choose the length that matches your ski length; width of the skin is pretrimmed to match the sidecut of the K2 ObSETHed and MissDirected skis. K2 obSETHed-MissDirected climbing skins include Glue Saver mesh storage sheets, detailed instructions and a nylon storage bag.
K2 obSETHed Skin
The K2 obSETHed Skin is not available from the stores we monitor. It was last seen March 31, 2014 at REI.
If you're looking for a new climbing skin, check out the best reviewed current models.


text:
VIDEO: Q&A with Maverick Boat CEO
Posted onThe Maverick Boat Co. today wraps up a three-day press event in Stuart, Fla., at the Hutchinson Island Marriott Beach Resort & Marina. Maverick builds Pathfinder, Hewes, Maverick and Cobia boats.
The company gave nine journalists the opportunity to test and fish from nine different boats across the four brands. Four of the vessels are new boats — the Pathfinder 2200 Tournament Edition, the 2600 HPS Bay Crusher, the Maverick 17 HPX VII and the Cobia 201 CC.
The Pathfinder 2600 and the Maverick 17 debuted at the Miami International Boat Show in February. Maverick unveiled the Pathfinder 2200 TE and Cobia 201 CC at a dealer meeting that preceded the press event.
Maverick acquired Cobia in 2005 and has since revamped the entire fleet. The 201 CC retails for just under $40,000 with a Yamaha F150. Although the Cobia is new from the keel up, the Pathfinder 2200 TE uses the same hull as an existing model — the 22 TRS — but has a redesigned deck. It's $55,520 with a Yamaha F200. The 2600 Bay Crusher excels as both an inshore and offshore boat. It retails for $73,875 with an F250. Pricing for the Maverick 17 HPX VII, a high-end carbon fiber/Kevlar skiff, was unavailable.
I was able to fish from three of the boats on Tuesday (and landed one from the Cobia, I might add), and in the evening I caught up with Maverick CEO, co-founder and president Scott Deal, who had also spent the day on the water, piloting a boat with a professional photographer aboard.
Click play to watch.
In this video Q&A, Deal talks about the year ahead, the differences among his four brands and what the consumer expects out of a boat today, compared with pre-recession times.
— Chris Landry
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text:
1990 GMC Serria 5.7L 350 TBI
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
122 Comments
reserved for more pictures
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
Make/model/year : GMC/Serria/1990
2 wheel drive
Vehicle weight : 5200lb with gasifer
Engine size: 5.7L, 8 cylinder with Throttle Body Injection
8inch gasifer restriction
engine modifications (to be carried out)
305 Vortec heads
stock Vortec intake modified to run TBI
aftermarket cam
currently 18inch firetube, will be upgrading to 24inch firetube once the engine modifications are carried out
Looks great Dustin! You've
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
Looks great Dustin! You've been so quiet about your project..... Now we see what you've been up to.
I honestly don't know who's gonna be done first. Not that it really matters; you'll all be done soon enough. In six months there's gonna be double or triple the woodgas truck fleet in the US!!
Lookin real Good!
Submitted by Terry Lavictoire on
Hey Dustin,
Lookin real good!
Won't be long now, if ya wanna come up north for a ride... I could make sure there is some fuel for the return trip.
Great to see you're progress!
I'm waiting for the rain to stop so I can get back at it.
All the best
She's a peach. That truck
Submitted by Bruce French on
She's a peach. That truck should be a real nice wood gasser.
Dustin, It's gonna be fun at
Submitted by Mike LaRosa on
Dustin, It's gonna be fun at the next gathering(s) .. My biggest problem will be getting a non rusted vehicle to convert to make the next trip. My trailer had a tire go to H on the Argos trip. It was brand new. The center tread just started to break down. I don't think it was bouncing but just simply chinese junk ????? I can't easily cross the border going north, generally speaking, because I always travel with a gun and there is so much crap in my vehicles that I'm bound to forget to remove something :o) . Guess I have to see what part (province) of Canada you are in. I forget where the member's map is. What size engine does the truck have. I'd guess 350 ??? .. Mike
Hi Dustin,
Submitted by Peter Coronis on
Hi Dustin,
Looks good, looking forward to seeing more progress pictures.
Looks Great Dustin!
Submitted by Steve Unruh on
Looks Great Dustin!
Like the Border Collie too.
MikeL, he says 4.3L V-6. Ain't you the expert on woodgasing these now?
TerryL was 100F the last two days here with the North Pacific jet stream shifting the storms up your way. Next week its supposed to waggle whip back down here. Drats!
Washington State Steve Unruh
Hello Dustin,
Submitted by Wayne Keith on
Hello Dustin,
Looks great!!! When will you be busting the champaign bottle on it?
May you smile with every mile as you give OPEC the old one finger salute.
looks great, let the fires
Submitted by Richard Cooper on
looks great, let the fires burn. I will not be to far behind you and will love bypassing OPEC
Hi Steve & Dustin, I guess he
Submitted by Mike LaRosa on
Hi Steve & Dustin, I guess he did spec that and I missed it .. I'm a poor reader and dislexic. I just looked at the pictures. I've got mine up to 70 mph or so a few times but as he's building a WK machine he should maybe be able to push it a bit harder. Chevy trucks are pretty heavy compared to the Dodge Dakota trucks. I'm happy to hear it has a manual transmission. All the automatics I deal with have been a pain in the ars. I like having full control of the transmission but I forget to step on the clutch every once in a while as Anthony Meschke could tell you .. OOPS, I forgot .. I was driving in my sleep that day. With a manual transmission you can continue to pull on the gasifier but with a GM automatic when you take your foot off the pedal it just goes back to idle and if there is a lag in gas production the engine just stalls as the the system isn't designed to keep the engine spinning and put drag on the system. I have to hit the starter key around 2 times in a typical 10 mile drive here. I have the neutral safety switch bypassed but I do have a tach and when it says zero it means zero ... I do a lot of 2 foot driving with the cavalier to keep it stoked up and running as I get to stop signs and the such ... ML
Hello All
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
Hello All
Thank you for your kind words of encouragement they are very much appreciated.
No you did not miss the engine spec, I added it to the original post after reading your comment, I thought It would be better there instead of placed after the fact.
I am optimistic that the 6 cylinder will give me enough power on woodgas to blend in with traffic but I will have to just wait and see, if nothing else it will at least make a very good first try and experimentation vehicle. I would have liked to gasifiy a larger engine but this truck was what I had in my position at the time.
I like the manual transmission as well however I intend to have separate pull cable throttles for both the woodgas and air intakes so manipulating these along with using the manual transmission may prove difficult especially in clutch heavy circumstances i.e city driving. But this is another one of those things that will have to be worked out as it develops.
I currently live in Belleville Ontario, directly across from New York state over Lake Ontario
Wayne: "When will you be busting the champaign bottle on it?"
when I first started the project I was hoping to have it done by Christmas but it seems things are progressing pretty well so I am optimistic that if nothing comes up to detract me from the project then I could be making my first test drives by the end of September.
That is a very nice offer of which I may take you up on sometime in the future. I may be heading back to Thunder Bay in a year if everything pans out and Kirkland lake is in that general direction. It would be interesting to compare notes.
Here are some photos of my other project that I worked on last winter and completed this April for the summer. I have over 1000kms on it. It's great for intercity driving and I can outrun and out maneuver most cars in the city.
The bike is capable of speeds of 85km/h and can go comfortably 30km at that speed. It can get a range of roughly a 100km at 30km/h. I plan to use the wood gasser for long distance trips or when I need to haul materials and use the bike if I need only to transport myself or pick up groceries etc.
for those interested the bike is powered by 30 lithium iron phosphate batteries wired in series to total 100v at 16amp hours.
Dustin, Is that as hub motor
Submitted by Mike LaRosa on
Dustin, Is that as hub motor in the rear wheel ?? Any problems with the authorities ? I see the bicycle tag on the side. I believe we can run electric assist under 600 watts here without license and registration. My former employee was arrested at my place and hauled off in handcuffs to jail for riding his here. It was his second charge for operating without a license. They eventually dropped ALL of the charges and had mud in their eyes. They damaged his batteries because the bike sat all winter uncharged. Looks cool but having batteries between my legs under you know what gives me the eebie jeebies. I still have an electric car here (1970 Maverick with an aircraft generator for a motor) but all the batteries are shot and I need to dismantle it and scrap it .. ML
yes that is a hub motor in
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
yes that is a hub motor in the rear wheel. I dissembled it, added new high temp hall sensors, thicker wires, sealed it with a couple gaskets and added a thermometer and mineral oil to monitor the internal temps and help cool the motor when I get pulling up to 4000kw.
No trouble with Law enforcement to this date. Where I currently live there are relatively few E-bikes around and all that I've see are ones bought in stores which are limited to Canadian regulations. There is no wattage law here in Ontario (yet) but there is a limit on how fast they can be manufactured to go i.e 32km/h while on the road. This makes it frustrating for both owners and other road users since most stock e-bikes take up the room of a scooter so cars and other vehicles can't pass without endangering people. With my bike I can keep up with traffic and it just kinda blends in. There is no license or registration for this kind of thing here and I hope it stays that way.
I do have a bicycle tag that I found while in another city off an old junker so decided to put it on but it has no value other than for it looks.
ok so I got some more work
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
ok so I got some more work done on the truck and even flared it for the first time. However, I'm having a problem sealing the top 55 gallon drum lid. As you can see in the picture there is more smoke coming out of it than the flaring pipes.
When I have the blower running, pushing air into the heat exchanger I get lots of smoke billowing out of the upper hopper drum seal. I still get enough gas to flare at the rails though. I thought maybe I was using to big of a blower and trying to push to much air but I hooked up a 4inch duct blower to the heat exchanger and it was still forcing smoke through the seal.
At first I just used high temp silicone around the lip but it leaked, I then removed the lid and placed another large amount of high temp silicone, stove gasket (cord type) and then another bead on high temp silicone and clamped it down with a big heavy barrel clamp... still leaked.
So now I don't know what to do. when I made the hopper I used a different barrel than that of the lid, It dry fitted fine (so I thought) but now I'm kicking myself. Worst case scenario if I can't get it sealed I think I may have to cut the top lip off the hopper and weld the proper lid in it's place.
Anyone have any suggestions to solve this leaking issue, will it get better with further flaring/ cooling cycles?
I got the condensate tank mounted and plumbed, the hay filter mounted and some of the plumbing done on it as well. The forth picture is of the plumbing material I'm using. I believe it's 2inch electrical conduit, it's flexible and has a nice thick rubber membrane, hoping it will work alright. They have tons of this stuff at the local scrap yard for cheap.
Submitted by Bruce French on
Can you post some close ups of the lid and hopper rim? Open and then closed?
I only have one, I forgot to
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
I only have one, I forgot to take more pictures when I took it apart/assembled it again. More picture will have to wait until next Tuesday when I'm done work and have time to pull everything off again.
Seems like a lot of smoke
Submitted by Bruce French on
Seems like a lot of smoke leaking. You can test the seal with the fire out using a shop vac hooked up to a dimmer switch to adjust the speed. Try using suction and see if it seals itself or not. Sometimes they do seal on suction and this is what really counts. Some leaks show up on pressure test and some on vacuum, all should be checked and sealed as best as possible for best results. You may spend quite q while fiddling with all this but it is worth it.
This is all normal working out the kinks in a new system.
You might try something like
Submitted by Richard Cooper on
You might try something like a valve spring in the center of your lid instead of a solid bar. Hook the spring to the locking mec. and not the lid, that way you have more even pressure. The way you have looks like it could be pressing more on one side. I have not tested this just what I thought of when I looked at your picture.
OK, I didn't see that picture
Submitted by Bruce French on
OK, I didn't see that picture before. The rim of the lid has a lot of distortions that need to be smoothed out. I put a piece of 1/4 inch braided nylon or fiberglass cord in that groove with hopper goo to glue it in, then pout grease on the rope seal. That spring latch may need to be changed out to a piece of all thread or bolt so you can adjust the tension on the lever. Silicone will not work on the lid. At least not for long.
A little more work done on
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
A little more work done on the truck this week. I fixed some leaks on the hopper but the access lid is still giving me trouble, I will most likely have to redo it since it does appear to be smoking mostly on the hing side.
Plumbing is now done up to the intake manifold and I got the woodgas plenum fabricated and bolted in. I had some major air leaks when I first put it on. The truck has TBI as stock and when there are leaks under the carb the computer reads it as "open throttle" (as I found out) and dumps a ton of gas into the intake.
When I first installed the plenum it was idling at 2300 RPM (not good) and hissing up a storm.
After taking it apart again and carefully filing flat the sides where the TBI and intake manifold bolt to the plenum (this took a while) and placing a liberal amount of sealing gasket I was able to get the rpms down to 600 rpm which was where it was running normally before the modifications... so no air leak (yah).
The valves I'm using are traditionally used as RV waste valves. I have found that they seal quite well. I have to fix one of the valves (woodgas) side. There has developed a small vacuum leak because when I installed it I misaligned the inner rubber seal, hopefully an easy fix once I get time to look at it. For now while I drive on gas I've just put rubber end caps over the 3' intake pipes. The other side (air intake) is sealing nicely.
I've been starting and flaring the gasifer as I work on finishing up the plumbing etc. I think the char bed is working in nicely. From a cold start up I get gas that sustains a flame within 5min from putting the torch in the hopper, so things are proceeding nicely.
I've run about two feed bags of wood through the gasifer now (45lb?) and started with 2 bags of charcoal. I've been burning cedar as it is what I have on hand for now. It seems to burn quite quickly (which I expected) but is doing the job of working in the gasifer
Next week I have to run my woodgas/air intake throttle wires and mount my throttle controls in the cockpit. I also need to fabricate the screen for the hay filter, wire in the blowers to the 120v inverter, wire my TBI injector fuel cutoff switch and tie up anything else that I've forgotten.
Fingers crossed, I may be running on wood by the end of next week.
Submitted by Bruce French on
You might want to use metal pipe for wood gas off the TBI plenum to get out past the engine heat. Rubber tends to collapse and PVC may get soft. Lots of heat in that area right above the intake manifold. The setup looks good. The RV gate valves may be heat sensitive too.
Hello Dustin,
Submitted by Wayne Keith on
Hello Dustin,
If the plenum under the TBI doesn't work out you may want to try running the woodgas through the TBI and removing the plenum. I have only had one TBI system but put a lot of miles on it (coast to coast and back).
You will eventually have to clean or replace the TBI but you will have to clean your intake manifold eventually anyway regardless of which system you choose.
PS, I had a switch for each injector.
well, we are running on
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
well, we are running on woodgas!
I had to scrap the plenum in the last post as the RV valves where leaking/warping under the high vacuum and heat/gasoline conditions (as was mentioned by Woody). The plastic plates where cupped after a hundred kilometers of gasoline driving and the rubber seals swelled do to an interaction with gas so it was a no go.
I decided to do what Wayne suggested and pipe the wood gas in above the TBI. I still used one RV valve to adjust the incoming air and a butterfly (damper) to throttle the woodgas. The wood-gas throttle is attached to the gasoline throttle via a cable and the air intake valve has a separate pull throttle. I decided to try and filter some of the fine soot that I hear can bake to the TBI/carb and intake manifold by putting in a piece of foam. This worked ok for roughly 60km and then it clogged and wouldn't even allow enough air in to run the engine effectively on gasoline alone. I will not put the filter back in and will be forced to clean the TBI/manifold once it becomes a problem. I may look into getting another set so that I have a back up for when cleaning must be done.
pic 7- The intake pusher blower is attached temporarily in the box while the exhaust heat exchanger is fabricated.
I still have to fix a few issues with linking the gasoline throttle with the woodgas butterfly, currently it sticks a little so when I flip from woodgas to gasoline it reves fairly high when in neutral/shifting gears.
The lid I posted about earlier is still a problem and I am losing a lot of vacuum do to a poor seal. I think I will have to make a new one that fastens around the rim at several points. When driving today I was maxing out at 60kms on the flat but I think a combination of it being the first time driving this vehicle along with the poor lid and filter clogging up it was a pretty good run.
I won't be able to fix the problems for a few weeks as I am busy with work and I need to devote some time to my very understanding girlfriend who has gone all summer putting up with the ongoing fabrication.
I can finally see the light.... to be honest, I was still kinda skeptical whether this would work or not until I was rolling down the street on woodgas. I had to double check the TBI injector switches to make sure they where off and still it was hard to belevie... I think I'm coming down with a fever... a woodgas fever that is.
Thanks to all that have been helping me out with this build and a special thanks to Wayne and Chris. It's a great thing you are doing.
until the next update take care and thanks for the input.
Congratulations!!! Another
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
Congratulations!!! Another pickup freed from the gas stations. Bet you're riding with a grin now!
Congratulations Dustin !!!
Submitted by Terry Lavictoire on
Congratulations Dustin !!!
Me thinks you are hooked for good.
Now all those downed trees on the side of the Highway... Start looking like gas cans, free for the taking.
HWWT soon
Good job Dustin,
Submitted by Richard Craig on
Good job Dustin,
I am just a day or two from my first run. I hope it goes as well as yours.
Once she is lit and runs low
Submitted by Bruce French on
Once she is lit and runs low on wood, make sure you aren't pulling on the gasifier when running on gasoline. An empty fire tube heats up fast if you have leaky wood gas valves. Another trick new wood gassers like to do is run hybrid. Becareful you are not out on the highway and run down the wood in the fire tube or your tube will look like this.
Hello Dustin,
Submitted by Wayne Keith on
Hello Dustin,
Congratulation on your truck.
It would be handy to have a spare TBI and should take but a few minutes to change it out if necessary.
The TBI can be clean somewhat with compressed air. You can blow the carbon build up down in the intake manifold. It doesn't seem to hurt the motor.
One question on the ignition timing. Are you advancing it any?
hello Wayne
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
hello Wayne
On the 4.3l v6 the on-board computer controls the ignition timing. Apparently there is a way of disabling the computer from automatically adjusting the timing by unhooking a wire under the floorboard. I was slightly hesitant to do this as the truck is my only vehicle and messing with timing seems like it could ruin an engine quickly if done improperly. I'm quite a novice when it comes to wrenching on an engine and I am learning as much about ICEs as I am about gasification as I go.
I read your post on Richard C's thread advocating he advance his timing as it would help with wood fuel economy and getting more hp out of the engine when on woodgas so I think once I get a little more comfortable with the procedure I may try and advance the timing to see if I get any performance gain.
Thanks again
for those interested about
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
for those interested about timing there is a very informative thread already here on DriveOnWood found here:
also Wayne explains a little more here http://driveonwood.com/comment/5417#comment-5417
for my interests Mike LaRosa states in the first thread posted.
" I bought my 93 with the 4.3 because I saw all kinds of room under the hood. You will definitely want to rotate the distributor on that from the cab. I change timing all the time. The computer handles some but it's 2 ranges between woodgas and hybrid."
and Steve Unruh follows up Mike's post with
"MikeL just covered well the how and why to distributor turn/adjust. He knows about the GM "pink wire". Lets you cut out the computer commanded variable timing control and fall back onto a fixed ignition amplifier module timing with just an added in flick of the switch. Same as the Ford 'SPOUT" connector and Chysler/Dodge "IG bypass" wire. Early 80's-90's systems only."
So it looks like this water has already been tread before. I will need to wire in a switch to the timing control and also be able to turn the distributor via a lever from the cab to advance the timing. I will look into this a little more but it seems to fit with what I've read in the repair manual about advancing the timing. I'll investigate further and then maybe get to experiment in a couple weeks.
been running the truck more
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
been running the truck more this week. I took the filter material out of the mixing chamber and things seemed to work a little better. As well I replaced the hopper lid with another and it seems to seal better.
I am maxing out at 60km/h (38mph) on the flat which is disappointing. I have to run in 3rd gear as shifting to 4th does not provide enough vacuum to keep the engine RPMs up. The vacuum gauges read 15 at the mixing chamber, 10 at the rails and 5 at the hopper when in 3rd gear at 2200 RPM which gets me 60km/hr. I'm running a 6inch restriction. I do have some small leaks that I haven't fixed. shifting to 4th from above gives me 1800RPM and 7-9 at the mixing chamber 5 at the rails and 2-3 at the hopper, the RPMs slowly decrease until one shifts back to 3rd.
I did mess around with the timing with he above post information in mind, but I think it did more harm than good. After messing with the timing I couldn't idle on woodgas and the gasoline idles very low now, think I'll try and set it back to the default 0* TDC
I'll keep plugging away at it, I hope I can at least get it to run at the speed limit 80km/hr (50km/hr) and would be ecstatic if I could maintain 100km/h. Hopefully with some more work with the 80% I'll be able to squeeze some more speed out of the old truck as well as get it to idle.
Howdy Dustin,
Submitted by Terry Lavictoire on
Howdy Dustin,
I suspect the small leaks are the problem... Especially after the grate. It takes very little air infiltration to seriously degrade gas quality. Gentle positive pressure in the system and very soapy water will find most leaks.
The timing should help after the leaks are dealt with.
You are most of the way there!
Leaks leaks leaks. If you're
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
Leaks leaks leaks. If you're losing 5" of vacuum between the rails and the air cleaner, there's something amiss. Either a restriction in the plumbing or some air leaks. Actually that speed sounds about right for the vacuum levels and the restriction size. You need to pull closer to 15-20" at the rails to get up to 50-55 mph in third gear, just a guess and that will vary based on gasifier conditions. When you open up the restriction (LATER not now) there will be more power overall.
Acid test: Are you able to kill the truck by running too rich? If not then there's still work to do.
Sounds like leaks. Weak gas.
Submitted by Bruce French on
Sounds like leaks. Weak gas. Is the restriction plate all the way at the bottom of the tube? getting any puff backs while trying to accelerate?
Some leaks will show up on suction and others will under pressure. It took me months to get all mine stopped. Once you fix a bunch of them, more show up because the weak spots get more stress and let loose. Pipes that flop around will develop leaks. If you have a pipe going up over a rear axle that may crack or leak after a few drives.
Chris: I am able to kill the
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
Chris: I am able to kill the engine by closing the air intake valve while running on wood. From what I've leak tested most of them are found before the grate but I still need to go over it again to get rid of anymore that have shook lose.
Woody: The restriction plate is 6inch diameter and 12 inch's from the nozzles. I can't tell if I'm getting puff backs or not (don't hear them while driving) but after driving for a bit my hopper lid eventually develops more and more leaks which I assume would be to puff backs.
Again thanks for the continued help.
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
How's your wood supply? Nice and dry? What size chunks are you running?
Since you can kill the engine with the gas, we'll set aside the leaks for now. I still don't like the pressure drop from the rails to the engine. But I will admit I've never measured it at the engine. Check for blockage, flexible pipes collapsing under vacuum.
Just went back over your pics, do you have a single 2" woodgas line to the engine? That could explain the pressure drop. You should still be able to pull harder on the plumbing though. Try at an idle in neutral and see what's the highest it will pull on each of the gauges.
Good ratio on the hopper/cooling rails there. No plugging, nice and loose. What temps are you getting?
You have got to get the lid
Submitted by Bruce French on
You have got to get the lid to seal under a vacuum.
Chris: the wood I'm using is
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
Chris: the wood I'm using is dry cedar. It burns very quickly and I have to refuel more often but it seems to work well. It is what I have on hand for now until I get some hardwood, perhaps It does not make enough gas?. Wood chunks range from 1inch x 3inch up to 3 x 4. so fairly large but so far it's been running ok, no bridging that I have seen and the char bed is very loose when I push my poker down. I don't have a grate shaker installed yet but I can shake the grate when I push the poker down through the char bed so I assume it shakes a little when I'm driving on dirt roads etc.
The following are my reductions: 2inch air inlet pipe into the heat exchanger/gasifer. 6inch outlet pipe from gasifer to heat exchanger. 2, 2inch outlet pipes from heat exchanger to rails, 2 2inch pipe into condensate tank from rails, 2 2inch pipe from condensate tank to hay filter. 2 2inch pipe from hay filter to engine compartment. 2 2inch pipe reduced to 3inch via y-pipe which feeds into mixing compartment. Engine TBI butterflies are roughly 2inchs x 2 butterflies. the air intake which is located opposite to the woodgas inlet in the mixing chamber is 3inch with an air tight gate valve. With all this in mind I don't think there is much in the way of restrictions at anyone point. I would not think the 4.3l engine would need more than that anyway, but I could be wrong.
all my pipes from condensate tank on are either ABS or steel corrugated hose with a heavy waterproof rubber membrane around them, on all connections I have used rubber connectors, I have not leak tested them however so that is on the list.
I Cannot get the truck to idle on woodgas. when left without pushing the throttle the RPMs decrease to in the 300's and the engine stalls. This only happened after I messed with the timing, It did idle before messing with the timing. It does idle with gas
I can stall the engine while on gas by shutting the air intake valve as well, which also draws 30+ on the engine gauge, I have not looked at the rails while doing this test.
While running on wood when I close the air intake valve too far (or to little) the engine sputters and has no power and eventually stalls (wrong ratio I imagine), there is only one setting for the air intake in which the engine will run regardless of how much I open the TBI butterfly with the throttle. Therefore I am unable to close the air intake further to increase my vacuum to the woodgas because the engine will not run when it doesn't have the exact correct air mixture. In 3rd gear this is ok because I can keep the RPMS up and it chugs along smoothly at 60 but when I shift to 4th because the RPMs are getting high 2800ish the engine can't keep the RPMs up regardless of how much I push the petal down (i.e open up the TBI butterfly).
temps when everything is warm is about 250 Fahrenheit on the gas entering the rails, can't get it up to 300 if I try. Hopper fluctuates from 100 Fahrenheit to 150, never over 175 even when pretty well empty
Terry: my hopper lid still is not sealing as well as I would like but I can get it to read 5 H20 on the gauge so it is better than before but still needs some work.
Hmm. I will only comment on
Submitted by Steve Unruh on
Hmm. I will only comment on the fuelwood - cedar. I have gasified with Western Red Cedar. Works ok. Probably at the far end of the spectrum of usable woods. Need to size largish. Have a very mild grate action to keep from crushing/crumbling the super soft char. It IS low ash so not a problem there anyhow.
Yes low density and weight so getting 2X the volume of it to feeding trough any ledges/tapers/edges above the nozzles versus denser woods is the only real fuel specific problem area I've seen. Hooper goo and condensate sure smells nice.
Steve Unruh
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
Everything you're telling me sounds good, and that's the problem. Pipes sized right, temps OK. Wood is dry, char is loose. You can stall it with rich gas, meaning you have plenty of room for setting the correct mix. An O2 sensor can help here but isn't critical. If it seems touchy then you may want a longer lever arm on the air valve.
Idle speed is a red herring; the computer will have a hard time controlling idle speed on woodgas. You want to use a string tied to the gas pedal and a friction knob to adjust your idle speed. You say it idles OK right down to 300 RPM, that's good.
So your problem seems to be that you can't pull hard enough on the gasifier. All the gasifier sees is a light load, and so it's not producing much gas. Temps remain low, vac readings stay low. Even at full throttle you can't pull any harder on the gasifier.
This is crying out "restriction" to me. I had literally the same situation, I used a flex pipe under the hood that was collapsing under vacuum. Effectively limiting me to half-throttle operation.
I just can't figure out where your restriction is, everything sounds right from here. Have you got a vac gauge on the intake manifold? This can be revealing. Remember this is inches Hg not inches of water. Trace the vacuum through the system, just like you would an electrical short.
This does seem like an AHA! moment waiting to happen. Hoping you'll find something trivial that caused the problem, and your truck will finally be up to full power.
Dustin, I noticed that you
Submitted by Don Mannes on
Dustin, I noticed that you are using a slide type air intake valve instead of a butterfly valve. I wonder if that could be harder to adjust to the proper air mixture you were experiencing?
Don M
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
So I worked today but at the same time was racking my brain over what the problem was with my performance. I could not accept that the engine was merely "maxed out" and that that was all I could coax out of it.
When I built the hay filter I kinda messed up. I did not extend my inlet pipes located on the bottom of the hay filter up into the hay filter, they were merely welded to flush with the bottom. This then allows condensate to drain from the hay filter into the pipes connecting the hay filter and condensate tank. I had seen this only after building and installing the tank and so decided to attach T's to the inlet pipes so that the condensate could accumulate inside the bottom T which could then be emptied.
As it turns out I had not emptied the pipes since I have been running the gasifer and when I got home from work I opened them up and low and behold they had roughly 4 cups of water in them each, enough that the woodgas would have had to travel through the water to get into the hay filter.
I won't be able to fire up the gasifier until Monday and verify that this is indeed what caused the decrease in vacuum and therefore power of the engine but it is a sure bet that it had a lot to do with it.
that's all for now
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
I read that the slide valve was apparently easier to adjust compared to a butterfly valve since the slide valve only opens on one side versus the butterfly opening on both with the same movement of a cable. As it stands now I have about 1/4' of play from the "sweet spot" of the air intake on each side which gives me some breathing room when trying to adjust.
Yes collected water will
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
Yes collected water will restrict the flow. Is the plumbing sloped back from the hay filter to the condensate tank? If not it will collect water. In any event everything should be able to run into the tank when you go up a slight hill.
Hay filter is among the easiest pieces to rebuild or replace if need be.
More updates:
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
More updates:
Been working on the gasifer again this week. I decided to widen the restriction plate from 6inchs to 7inchs. I also found that the ammo box I used for an ash dump had it's rubber seals burnt out which allowed a lot of air up through into the hearth (lots of white ash at the grate).
I sealed the ammo box with stove gasket and some other leaks that have cropped up around the gasifer/heat exchanger junction. Around this connection the paint has been burning off and seems to have popped a few welds (The high temps may have been due to the air leak in the clean-out). I sealed the small leaks with red silicone and seemed to work well. I finally got my hopper lid to seal tight.
I am estatic to say that I'm pulling 30inch H20 at the manifold, 20 at the rails and 10-15 at the the hopper. I was able to cruise at 90km/hr in 4th at around 2200rpm and had lots of power to climb hills. It seriously feels like I'm driving on gas. The old truck never really had much pep as it was and I'm pretty frugal on the petal so it performs much like I was driving on gas. All the speed limits around here are 80km/hr and most drive 90km/hr so I am able to keep up quite nicely.
The fuel consumption has gone down quite a bit too I think as well. I have no numbers yet but will be keeping a record to see if my mileage improves.
still need to address some more issues.
1st: need to do what Chris suggested and tie a push/pull throttle to the throttle to allow the truck to idle on wood gas. the truck idles really well at roughly 1000rpm but without the push/pull cable attached to the throttle I need to manually open the throttle with my foot which is a pain especially when trying to brake/clutch or get out of the vehicle while in neutral etc.
2nd: I need to install a throttle body between the woodgas inlet and the mixing plenum. It is very difficult to run the truck with duel fuel right now. When the truck is running on gasoline there is nothing to stop woodgas from being sucked into the mixing plenum. When this happens the air/fuel mixture is too rich and the truck sputters and stalls. It's nice to switch from one to the other (any instantly) if need be , but right now the only way I can do this is by pulling over and getting out of the truck and disconnecting the wood gas line. If a tight fitting throttle body was between the woodgas inlet and mixing plenum than the wood gas could be shut off from the cab with a cable. The throttle body in on the way so we shall see how it works.
I installed a narrow band air fuel mixture gauge to work off my stock o2 sensor and will see if that is any use of not. It may be more valuable when I am trying to idle, not sure.
The 7inch restriction seems to be working real good. Like I said above I am getting a lot more power out of the engine and it's running very nicely. I took the lid off the mixing plenum and there was no tar to be seen, only dusting of soot and a small amount of water droplets. I put another 80km on the new restriction and everything seems to be running smooth. I will stay with this restriction for now. I can't really see moving up to a bigger restriction because then I think I will get into trouble with tar at slower speeds and idle. But we shall see.
Ouch. Glad you caught the air
Submitted by Chris Saenz on
Ouch. Glad you caught the air leaks, and hope nothing overheated before you found it. Guess you'll find out over the next few drives. From what you said before there wasn't much temperature, so lets hope that means no damage.
The knob and string solution is very simple, and works a treat. Tighten the string to pull the pedal and raise the idle, and loosen it to let the throttle close and lower the idle.
Dustin, I just introduce the
Submitted by Mike LaRosa on
Dustin, I just introduce the woodgas into the air cleaner on my chevy and have a foam on chicken wire frame filter in the canister for a final filter and for running on gasoline. I did add an anti dieseling solenoid from an old quadrajet to bring the idle up for woodgas. It is set at 2500 rpm on gasoline but settles around 1000 to 1200 on woodgas.
is a picture of it. It was very easy to rig up to the throttle body. I use it all the time. I also have switches to turn off the fuel pump and or injectors.
10-15 inches in the hopper
Submitted by Bruce French on
10-15 inches in the hopper sounds high. What does the bottom of the gasifier read? Expect more leaks to show up as the system vibrates from all the speeding around. You should be able to run 65 mph on that truck on flat ground when the system is running right. It may take some more time to learn how to operate the gasifier to get that result without sucking in your cans. Gasifier should be larger for that truck weight and hp so take it easy and don't burn it up.
A thermocouple right as the gas leaves the gasifier will detect leaks in the bottom of the gasifier instantly. A big change in temperature shows right up and you can shut down the truck before tearing up the insides of the gasifier. The heat exchanger thermometer is less sensitive and takes longer to show the heat spike.
High vacuum [fast accelerations and inexperience] causes those ammo can sides to bend and pulls the metal away from the rubber seal. A spacer inside to prevent the metal from moving will help. Also household insulation to protect the rubber seal from the hot char will help. Once those things do leak they usually keep leaking so I would test them regularly with soapy water on pressure and smoke from a piece of rope or something on vacuum. You will see it around the hinges too if they warp. If there is white ash on the char it will come out first and get buried by all the other char so it may be hard to see any ash from leaks.
Chris: I looked at the grate
Submitted by Dustin Moore on
Chris: I looked at the grate through the ash dump and it did not look like it sustained any damage from what I could see everything inside the gasifier was intact and sustained no damage. I took the heat exchanger apart when I was trying to diagnosis my problem and the internals had no obvious signs of heat damage. It was just the paint on the outside of the heat exchanger next to the wood gas inlet was starting to burn off. I think I caught it before anything went too south so looks like just cosmetic damage.
Mike: I love the solenoid idea. I just ordered one at the local auto parts store as the wrecker didn't know what I was talking about and I wasn't in the mood to try and convince them to allow me to walk through their lot. As I posted above I had a piece of foam in the mixing plenum to help catch some of the soot in the air but it plugged very quickly, perhaps a different type of foam would be better. What is the cleaning schedule on replacing the foam in your Chevy?
Woody: I'm learning the other 75% as I go and hopefully I will become competent in' woodgas before I destroy the gasifer :). I was thinking that since my engine is quite small (V6 4.3l) compared to other trucks being gasified that I wouldn't really be able to pull hard enough on the gasifier to cause it to over heat (perhaps I'm wrong). As well I thought the more vacuum the better in that it would reduce the chance off producing tar by increasing the heat (although you don't want to much heat obviously). More vacuum = more gas which gives one more power and speed or am I wrong?
On My most recent drive I've only been able to get the thermometer on the rails up to 300F (I think right where it should be) I have no way to monitor hearth temp at the moment. It does seem beneficial but to costly for me at this time to invest in. I was able to maintain 90km/hr with some moderate hills.
Thanks again for the advice and tidbits
Dustin & Bruce, Have to run
Submitted by Mike LaRosa on
Dustin & Bruce, Have to run for the day .. gasoline .. ouch .. Dustin, It only took a piece of folded and drilled steel strap and a couple of bolts to mount that solenoid .. Bruce, I remember that after your visit to Wayne's you went home and built rectangular instead of round. I wondered how that would hold up with the sides flexing. Thanks for posting about the struts. I brought a few ammo cans back from Wayne's bus last visit but have yet to use them for anything besides storing explosives / ammo. Dustin, your engine will pull like a 350 minus 2 jugs. Just have to spin it faster to get the same power. Most of the older chevys I had with 283s and 327s and 400s were light on 2 cylinders anyway :o) .. Mike


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The Board of County Commissioners awarded $50,000 to eight waste-reduction programs as part of the Resource Conservation Division's zero waste funding programs for 2015. Zero Waste Funding initiatives provide an opportunity for businesses, organizations and individuals within the community to contribute to
The City of Boulder Human Relations Commission will hold an informational community meeting on President Obama's Immigration Executive Order on Thursday January 15, from 6 to 8 p.m. at the Boulder High School Auditorium, 1604 Arapahoe Avenue. The meeting is being co-sponsored by the office of Congressman
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The Lyons Community Foundation (LCF) says goodbye to board member and long-time volunteer Alison Jennings. Alison served on the LCF board for the past three years and was the foundation's vice-chair for the past year. In her time serving the foundation, Alison has made many important contributions to the growth and development of the local non-profit, most notably as the chair of the LCF Annual Awards Gala over the last six years.
Dear Lyons Community,
Thank you to everyone who participated in the 10th Annual Christmas Eve candlelight service. We are especially grateful to Craig Ferguson for his generosity in opening the Wildflower Pavilion at Planet Bluegrass to us. It was especially meaningful to gather there again.
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Dear Editor,
Let me get this straight! By voting down recreational pot stores in Lyons we still get one on our border that is probably most identifiable as a Lyons Pot Store with none of the revenue from that store. I am told that one of the stores in our city limits nets around $400 a day in revenue. I would like to know the total revenue
Starting on New Year's Day, dogs under voice-and-sight control of their guardians on designated City of Boulder trails must wear blue Voice and Sight Program Tags. Previously issued green tags will no longer be valid.


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Wed, Dec 29, 10 at 16:52
I'm planning a blackberry patch for my new garden and I'm hoping for any suggestions for varieties that will do well here in Paso. I want to plant an assortment, so far, looking at:
Thornless Olallie Thornless Boysen Triple Crown Thornless Hull Thornless Chester Thornless Any suggestions, warnings, etc, would be very much appreciated! |
Follow-Up Postings:
One more question, should I plant in gopher baskets? Do gophers go for berries? |
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Sat, Oct 12, 13 at 22:40
Hi, I've planted daffodils in loamy ordinary soil with good drainage for years at a depth of 12" which is very deep for many people. I have never had a problem with blooming diminishing in subsequent years and they do not rot or lower in numbers. I have a much later bloom time, which I very much seek since I am not usually outside much in March to enjoy them. I am wondering how many other people plant their daffodils very deeply, as in a foot deep or more. I plant tulips very deeply, too. I can extend the daffodil bloom throughout all of April on daffs that bloom in March, and the tulips tend to perennialize considerably better at that depth. So, I'd like to know has anyone planted daffodils in loamy soil at a depth of 12" or more? Clay soil would probably have adverse effects on the bulbs health and eventually they would peter out and rot. Thanks, Matt. |
Follow-Up Postings:
We have heavy clay soil here. I plant my daffs about 6-8" deep. Last year, they were blooming when we had that snowstorm on the first day of our spring break-aarrgghh. |
Such an awesome picture cyn427! I would suggest digging very deeply around 16-18" and then backfill 4-6" of topsoil so the bulbs roots will easily grow into the loam and not the heavy clay. The daffodils I keep buying for of are named "payday" from Colorblends and bloom throughout April for me. Latest large yellow trumpet daffs I can find! I just planted 300 tulips at 12"+ too. Some probably as deep as 14-15" |
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