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216 EAST 49TH STREET, (50th and 3rd ave)(212) 888-4555
Minimum order of $15.00 - $20.00 is required for delivery + $12.00 delivery fee (more info)
Delivery estimate is 25-40 min (more info)
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Delivery estimate is 30 - 45 min (more info)
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Open since 1987, Chin Chin is New York's premier destination for haute Chinese cuisine. A far cry from your neighborhood General Tso's, the menu features ingredients from around the world, prepared with Asian techniques and spices. The Grand Marnier prawns (a Frank Bruni favorite) have proven to be the crowd-luring dish while the minced squab in lettuce wraps have also lasted the test of time. Zagat hails owner Jimmy Chin as one of New York's most gracious hosts year after year.
Food is inconsistent. Some dishes are tasty, e.g., fried pork dumplings, shredded chicken in garlic sauce, whereas some dishes are downright bad, e.g., sweet and sour spare ribs. One of the better Chinese food places that delivers to our area but not sure worth the $8 delivery fee. Fine, overall.
Posted 7 months ago by Ali I.
The food is mediocre at best and they charge a hefty $12.00 delivery fee... 2 1/2 stars at best...
Posted 8 months ago by Russell S.
Expensive but great food.
Posted 11 months ago by David K.
Not good!!! Wayy over priced!!
Posted a year ago by sean t.
It's ok. I only ordered Orange Beef but it smelled slightly fishy. I have had way better Orange Beef for less. It's ok. But not great.
Posted a year ago by Jason O.
Posted a year ago by Najat B.
The worst experience ever! Do they know how Maine lobster roll looks like??? They bring me huge rolls(???) with boiled cabbage inside with small pieces of lobster wrapped in something scorched. Gosh!!! Looks and tastes disgusting!!! Just threw it((
Posted a year ago by Iuliia M.
Literally the most repulsive meal I've ever had in NYC. Soggy sesame chicken made from all dark meat and fried rice that looked (and tasted) like plain white rice with a few sprinkles of vegetables. Don't forgot about the extra delivery charge that I haven't seen from any other seamless restaurant. Avoid this place at all costs...you've been warned.
Posted a year ago by Nicole S.
the delivery was quick and food was well prepared and tasty. No complaints and will order again....
Posted a year ago by tom g.
for the price, quite terrible. no chopsticks, meat is poor quality. sauces are bleh. I come from a small city in the South where we don't have any high quality restaurants and even I think this is definitely not worth the price.
Posted a year ago by Sandesh S.
Really disappointing all around. You can easily get better quality Chinese food at 1/4 the price just about anywhere in NYC. My friend lives near Chin Chin and said it really went downhill about a year ago. We tried anyway...and won't ever make that mistake again.
Posted a year ago by Seth H.
Never disappoints!
Posted a year ago by Sophia F.
Although it's expensive, Chin Chin is our go-to for at-home Chinese food. Call and request the squab soong--it's more interesting than the chicken.
Posted a year ago by Lucy W.
Food is good...but EXTREMELY overpriced. Not worth it at all.
Posted a year ago by Uri B.
There was no sauce for the sweet & sour pork. I called the restaurant and they said it was in the bag (it was not) and would not deliver it. Small point but the dry sauce-less pork is terrible for $17.50.
Posted a year ago by James W.
Worst food we've ever had on seamless. Both the chicken and the beef were disgusting. Totally disgusting
Posted a year ago by Samantha M.
Posted a year ago by Jeffrey R.
Worst experience fucking ever. You never asked for my credit card and I don't have cash on me. Where's the convenience to this? I just rejoined and you have about 30 mins to correct this before they deliver. I've dealt with many bad experiences here and I've had enough. This will go viral if not resolved immediately. Signed loyal customer until now
Posted a year ago by Brad K.
We have eaten at Chin Chin before and it was very good. However the delivery food that we received was extremely mediocre. The food is extremely expensive and was not any better then any other average Chinese food delivery place. I was extremely surprised at how bad it was. The shrimp were not cleaned. The steak was over cooked. The hot and sour soup was peppery and extremely average in quality. The meal was very average and not great, but was extremely expensive. I would definitely recommend avoiding this place. I was really excited to see Chin Chin on Seamless, but definitely let down after ordering.
Posted a year ago by Herbert R.
Medicore food and delivery estimates are always wrong.
Posted a year ago by Jane P.
Simply superb. Excellent quality meat and fish. delicious sauces. Incredible ribs. Best Peking Duck in New York. Always on-time and well packaged.
Posted a year ago by Jane G.
I've order from here a few times and I won't be doing so again. I could not be more unhappy with this place. First off, the food is WAY overpriced and simply not worth it. Second, with an estimated time of 20-45 minutes the food never showed up. Each time we called they said the food just left (meanwhile, we live 4 blocks away). Two hours later they admitted that they lost the order. At least be honest. Bottom line, save yourself the time and money and order from another place. You'll be happy you did.
Posted a year ago by Sarir S.
Best in NY. Hands down Chin Chin is better than all others. Food is always delicious, and the spare ribs are the best Ive ever had.
Posted a year ago by dana c.
Always consistently good. I have eaten here and from here literally hundreds of times and NEVER had a bad meal.
Posted 2 years ago by Paul G.
Tasteless and bland. One star for fast delivery and very nice bottle of Bvlgari-edition San Pellegrino
Posted 2 years ago by Ameet P.
Unremarkable lo mein for $14.50 is remarkable. Delivery was basically on time (50 minutes).
Posted 3 years ago by Wilson C. F.
Food came faster than expected, but RIDICULOUSLY overpriced. The General Tao's chicken was the fattiest I've ever had, and tasted somewhat burned. Spring rolls are $5 for 2 emaciated links. There is nothing upscale about this restaurant, it's standard chinese food you'd get at your neighborhood favorite, only for way more money.
Posted 3 years ago by Jessica M.
best wonton soup in the city!
Posted 3 years ago by Whitney M.
The corn soup is AMAZING. Tastes just like the corn soup I grew to love throughout Asia. This is your typical Chinese fare, but it's from a very classy establishment. The waiters are the most (genuinely) friendly that I have encountered at any restaurant in New York. Highly recommend it.
Posted 3 years ago by Madhu S.
Messed up my order, no crispy noodles with soup, and food sub-par (steamed dumplings and hot & sour soup)
Posted 3 years ago by THOMAS S.
it was ok but I wouldn't rush to order again. dumplings were dry.
Posted 3 years ago by Sean M.
Excellent Chinese food with a wide variety of authentic and innovative dishes
Posted 3 years ago by Ryan S.
The Sesame Chicken was not great quality . Too much breading and not enough chicken. Also, the sauce it came in was watery. The Wonton soup was sparse with no vegetables or pork. the soup only had dumplings and broth in it.
Posted 3 years ago by William L.
Worst sesame chicken I have ever tasted. Old bird fried in salted soy sauce oil.
Posted 4 years ago by Jacek R.
Overrated and overpriced. Shun Lee Palace is a much better option.
Posted 4 years ago by Matthew B.
Hot and sour soup was several cuts above the standard and tea-smoked duck was flavorful and generous.
Posted 4 years ago by Geoffrey L.
The best Chinese Food on the Upper East Side. Amazing. Maybe only Shun Lee can hold a candle to it.
Posted 4 years ago by Nicholas D.
Delivery estimate was 45-55 minutes. Food finally came 2 hours later. Food has no flavor. Grand marnier prawns are basically fried shrimp with mayonaise. Sesame chicken tasted like chemicals and burned, fried rice wasn't fried, spare ribs were tough to chew (as if they were old) and chicken lo mein had no chicken in it. $106 later I had to order a pizza. Terrible. Will never order from here again.
Posted 4 years ago by Lisa P.
It's too bad that I need to assign a star to it. It deserves zero. Absolutely awful. The worst Grand Marnier Shrimp I've ever had. I think they forgot to finish making it. It was basically fried shrimp dipped in the mayonnaise. It was not sweet, there were no vegetables, or fruit, or wallnuts. Disguisting. It would be too expensive if it cost a dollar.
Posted 4 years ago by Zuzanna J.
I'm ADDICTED to this place. Very very tasty. Love the orange peel beef.
Posted 4 years ago by steve s.
Very good food and was delivered quickly.
Posted 4 years ago by James B.
Incredible disappointment. We were ripped off by the price of the food. The shredded garlic chicken was tasty, but still not worth the price. The chicken and broccoli was greasy and tasteless. There was no delicacy to the food at all. I can't believe that anyone would give this place five stars.
Posted 4 years ago by Kirk C.
The food was ehh more like sub par. It didnt' meet it's hype and price was a little overboard for what we ordered today. We figure you pay a little extra for the quality of the food, something different from your avg local chinese restaurant. We couldn't taste the food, somewhat bland. There's no taste distinction from any other local chinese restaurant in midtown.
Posted 4 years ago by James K.
Absolutely awful. The worst seseame chicken I've ever had - really soggy, salty and just plain disgusting.
Posted 5 years ago by Christina K.
After trying Chin Chin twice, and discounting the very steep prices, even by Manhattan standards, I can honestly say that this is probably the worst Chinese food in the city.
Posted 5 years ago by Maria v.
Took over an hour. Cancelled order.
Posted 5 years ago by Jonathan T.
Submitted an order at 6:00 for an 8pm delivery. I went to the gym. They called my cell at 6:30 saying my food had arrived. I told them I put the order in for an 8pm delivery. When I left the gym I asked them to deliver a new order at 8pm as I requested. They sent the same food they tried to deliver at 6:30, room temperature and soggy. I will never order from Chin Chin again.
Posted 5 years ago by KENNETH W E.
Order right after lunch if you want it for dinner. I'm on minute 80 right now after being quoted a delivery time of 15-30 minutes. According to the person who answers the phone, the delivery guy left "5 or 10 minutes ago," which wwas still 60 minutes late.
Posted 5 years ago by Philip D. R.
Decent chinese food. A little overpriced
Posted 5 years ago by Matthew G.
worst sesame chicken i've ever had. do not order the ten ingredient fried rice. pan fried dumplings were okay, but this was a waste of money (a lot of money!) and i ended up throwing it out and ordering something else for dinner
Posted 7 years ago by Peter R.
One of the best restaurants of any kind on seamlessweb
Posted 7 years ago by Dan G.
Phenomenal Chinese food, the best delivery I've had.
Posted 7 years ago by Peter H.
Recommend Grand Marnier Prawns and Shredded Chicken in garlic sauce
Posted 7 years ago by Julie K.
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Today in brief: The shortlist has been announced for this year's Orange Prize for Fiction. The Guardian has compared the judges' selection favourably to the Pulitzer picks, suggesting that the Pulitzer 'study the Orange Prize playbook'. We take a peek at the chat about the contenders and hear from Kate Grenville on how her 2001 Orange Prize win changed her life. and In this week's Friday High Five, we look at some of the chatter around Fifty Shades of Grey (including a debate about submission fantasies and feminism), Chris Flynn's article on critics and show-off snark, David Sedaris on books, Adam 'Go the F**k to Sleep' Mansbach on author blurbs, and how Lego might be becoming 'less sexist'.
We share five of our favourite links to news, reviews or articles that we've discovered on the web over the past week.
It's a bit weird to think that one of the hottest topics of conversation in the literary world, from London to New York, is a book that began as a self-published fan fiction e-book, and is now an international erotic bestseller backed by a multi-million dollar deal.
Katie Roiphe's Newsweek article, 'Spanking Goes Mainstream' on what she diagnoses as a 'current vogue for domination' (or, 'the stylised theatre of female powerlessness'), epitomised by Fifty Shades and explored on HBO's new zeitgeisty series, Girls. Roiphe says it's a reaction to feminism, by women who find 'free will a burden'. The internet has exploded in angry response.
For those wondering what all the fuss is about, The Vulture has produced 'The Thinking Woman's Guide to Fifty Shades of Grey', including reasons why it's just not sexy:
'There are ways to write sex well. This is not that. This is like Tom Wolfe–bad sex scenes but punctuated by non-sex scenes that are gut-wrenchingly awful. A passage where we find out what Anastasia Steele looks like via girl-frowning-at-her-appearance-in-a-mirror exposition should be punishment for vehicular manslaughter in some states.'
Novelist, critic and Big Issue books editor Chris Flynn has been blogging a lot for Meanjin recently. This week, he writes about the influence of the Hatchet Job of the Year Award on the kinds of reviews that are being published; wondering if the rewarding of snark promoted by the award might be encouraging reviewers to be gratuitously mean, making it more about them than the work under consideration. 'As a casual reviewer myself I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just not mean enough to be cut out for the task,' he writes.
He singles out the infamous New York Times take-down of Elliot Perlman's The Street Sweeper ('a textbook on how not to write fiction') and Neil Genzlinger's evisceration of television's Game of Thrones – and its viewers ('Dungeons and Dragons types [with a] fairly low reward threshold').
Adam Mansbach (of Go the F**k to Sleep fame) has a very nice little satire in the New Yorker on the art of asking authors to 'blurb' (ie. endorse) your book. Here's an excerpt from his pricing chart:
This is your first book. (+$100)
This is your first book in a decade. (+$150)
You're still using the author photo from your 'promising début'. (+$75)
I know you. (–$50)
I met you once. (–$20)
We made out at a party. (+$25)
We got drunk together at a literary festival once, but I could tell you were thinking the whole time about how now you could ask me for a blurb. (+$75)
One of the most popular articles we've published this year was our look at the pink-and-pastel hued 'Lego for girls', officially branded Lego Friends. This week, Salon reports that Lego executives have agreed to sit down to talk with SPARK, a group who hopes to get the company to include more characters in its standard Lego lines, and improve the Lego Friends line, which Time magazine compared to Disney Princess, 'with its emphasis on physical appearance and limited career choices'.
Of course, Disney Princess – and Lego Friends – are fantastically successful with consumers, if not commentators. Salon is sceptical, thought its reporter says 'it would be wise for a company founded nearly 50 years ago with the imperative to create toys for "girls and for boys" to remember that goal doesn't mean "girl toys and boy toys."'
The New York Times has launched a new regular series, 'By the Book', in which they interview writers about what they're reading and recommending. They kick off with David Sedaris, who is characteristically entertaining and enlightening.
Among his confessions? 'I like nonfiction books about people with wretched lives. The worse off the subjects, the more inclined I am to read about them. When it comes to fictional characters, I'm much less picky. Happy, confused, bitter: if I like the writing I'll take all comers.'
The book that made him want to write? Raymond Carver's What We Talk About When We Talk About Love. 'His short, simple sentences and familiar-seeming characters made writing look, if not exactly easy, then at least possible.'
The shortlist has been announced for the 2012 Orange Prize for Fiction, the UK-based literary prize for the best book for a woman writer, now in its 17th year.
Contenders are:
Half Blood Blues by Esi Edugyan (Canada)
The Forgotten Waltz by Anne Enright (Ireland)
Painter of Silence by Georgina Harding (UK)
The Song of Achilles by Madeline Miller (US)
Foreign Bodies by Cynthia Ozick (US)
State of Wonder by Ann Patchett (US)
Ann Patchett won the prize ten years ago, for Bel Canto, while Anne Enright won the Booker Prize for The Gathering in 2007.
Enright told the Guardian she is proud to be on the Orange shortlist. 'It is the friendliest and most forward-looking of all the prizes, constantly bringing new names to our attention and casting older ones in a new light. It gives the bag a shake.'
American Cynthia Ozick is another frontrunner; she turned 84 on the day of the shortlist announcement. Asked whether she minded her age being a topic of discussion, she told the Guardian that while she understands journalists need something to talk about, she does found it mystifying. 'I think that writers are judged on their work and not on their age, and that seems to me a very simple axiom. I suppose if a writer publishes a novel at the age of 10 it is worth mentioning, but if one is mature it seems rather irrelevant.'
Joanna Trollope, chair of the judges, said, 'I think this is one of the strongest lists I've seen for a literary prize and I'm quite an old hand at them now. It is a list of international standing.'
Of course, she would say that, wouldn't she? But she's not alone in thinking so.
The decision not to award a fiction prize for the Pulitzer, the US's most significant national literature prize, was announced just hours before the Orange shortlist.
The Guardian's Robert McCrum lay the Pulitzer blame with a faulty selection of titles by the fiction jury, who put three titles forward for the Pulitzer board to choose a winner from (Dennis Johnson's novella Train Dreams, David Foster Wallace's The Pale King and Karen Russell's Swamplandia).
'Respectfully, I suggest that Pulitzer swallows a hefty slice of crow pie and takes home for careful study the Orange prize playbook,' he said.
'This UK-based, but globally significant award is not yet as ancient or distinguished as the Pulitzer, but the people who run Orange take a great deal of care – this year's shortlist is a model – to ensure that their nominations include six new fictions of distinction, by writers who are likely to show form over many years.'
'Look at the list of Orange winners and you will see that, not only are there no duds, there are, among the runners-up, several writers who have already achieved greatness. Pulitzer, please take note.'
Kate Grenville, the Australian author who won the Orange Prize for The Idea of Perfection in 2001, says that the win changed her life.
'I won it for The Idea of Perfection, a book that wasn't shortlisted for a single important Australian prize. As a result, sales were dismal. A year later, it won what was then Britain's richest literary prize. Suddenly everyone was reading it and assuring each other that they'd always known what a great book it was. It was the same book it had always been, but now it had the stamp of approval – a big prize.'
'Because of the Orange Prize, my next book was taken very seriously by publishers. Instead of trailing cap in hand from publisher to publisher, I had the delightful experience of them courting me. When The Secret River appeared, readers of all sexes read it … It's sold 200,000 copies in Australia alone. It was what publishers call my 'breakout' book. In my case, this meant 'breaking out' of the stereotype of 'women's books'. Paradoxically, a prize for women has freed my books from the ghetto of 'women's writing'.
Grenville is a strong supporter (and official ambassador) of The Stella Prize, an Australian equivalent to the Orange Prize, which will annually reward the best book in any genre by an Australian woman writer each year. Organisers hope to have the prize up and running soon.
You can find out more about The Stella Prize here.
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subset: commoncrawl


text: Do you want to make a super quick sweet treat for your family for the upcoming Valentine's day? Well these Heart Milk and Cookies are perfect and they are minimal work with maximum cuteness! A simple treat to whip up to show you love your crew! Guess what? I made these cookies from a box!!


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Latin American exports continue sluggish growth
Latin America's exports stagnated in 2013, posting a second straight year of sluggish growth, according to Latin American Trade Trend Estimates 2013, a study published by the Inter-American Development Bank.
Exports are expected to post growth of just 0.2 percent for the year, for a total value of slightly more than US$1 trillion.
The report, based on national and international data on 18 countries in Latin America, notes that the region's exports actually declined in the first months of the year, continuing a negative trend that began in late 2012. But in the third quarter, exports began to grow again.
Estimates now point to a small positive overall growth rate for 2013.
Results varied considerably among countries. Brazil, Colombia, Peru and Venezuela all posted declines in exports, while Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Ecuador, Mexico, Paraguay and Uruguay posted increases. Results in Central America were mixed, with exports barely growing in Costa Rica and Guatemala, declining in Honduras and Nicaragua, but expanding in El Salvador and Panama.
These results reflected uneven economic conditions in Latin America's major trade partners. In Europe, continued sluggishness was reflected in a 5 percent drop in demand for the region's exports. In contrast, China's imports from Latin America increased nearly 10 percent region-wide, in spite of slower growth in the Asian nation, while Japan and South Korea reduced their purchases from the region.
Exports of mineral ores and metals did not perform well in 2013, affecting countries such as Peru, Chile and Brazil, while foodstuffs had a better year. A fall in the prices of some primary goods, such as copper, gold and soybeans, also had a negative effect on export revenues. Of key commodities, only iron ore showed a significant price increase in the second half of the year.
For 2014, stronger demand from the U.S. should benefit the region, especially Mexico, while improved demand from China is expected to benefit the main mineral and agricultural exporters in South America.
Estimates were not run for the Caribbean due to a lack of an adequate year-to-date sample.


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Some pics of new blooms.
Gray lady. pic doesn't show that this bloom starts out white first thing in the AM, by noon there are shades of some gray in the flower and my mid afternoon their are shades of pale pink showing. A real pretty addition to the MG vine collection. Double blue picotee. small flowers but a real nice affect on the vine and a keeper for me. yamatoji,
Red star. received seeds in trade as mine last year didn't produce any seeds. not the same as the one I had, smaller flower, but really pretty. This bloom was on Tuesday and the weather was very cool, only in the 60's most of the week. The bloom stayed open for almost 48 hours!!!!!! Same red star bloom on Wednesday at 3pm. a little faded in color but still beautiful. When I went to bed around midnight Wed night, I checked to see if it was still open and the bloom was still fully open then. It was mostly closed by thursday morning. No idea what this one is. It was supposed to be dark blue/purple mt fugi but it sure isn't. It's a huge flower though and if you look at the center of the blooms on the 2 pics you can see a deformed extra petal in the center. 2 other blooms where the same but the ones before them and since have just been a normal huge flower. Fran |
Follow-Up Postings:
Nice shots Fran! I really like the dark purple one!! |
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found a new home!
Plenty of my friends are looking
for one too. Find a pet to adopt.
Find a pet to adopt |
My name is Boomer!
Facts about Boomer
- Breed: Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen/Poodle (Miniature) Mix
- Color: White
- Age: Young
- Size: Small 25 lbs (11 kg) or less
- Sex: Male
Boomer's Info...
I am already neutered and up to date with shots.
Boomer is a Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen / Poodle Mix.He is well mannered and very smart as you can see in his video! He is affectionate,Great with kids and good with other doggies.He just had a "summer" style haircut ,one photo shows how he looks with longer hair.
Other Pets at Luv of Dogz Fund Inc
Why Adoption is a Great Option
Boomer, a Scottsdale Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen/Poodle (Miniature) dog was adopted! Here's how you can benefit by looking at adoption as an option to buying a Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen/Poodle (Miniature) for sale in Scottsdale, or seeking a Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen/Poodle (Miniature) dog from a breeder in Scottsdale.
- Rescues and shelter volunteers in Scottsdale already know the personality and tendencies of their pets. This means they can match you with the right pet. That will makes it much easier transition to owning a pet for yourself and your new pet.
- On average adoption fees are much less than you'd pay a Scottsdale breeder, or pet store. Plus most often rescue pets have already been to the veterinarian for a check-up, had a round of vaccinations, and are spayed or neutered. That is a lot of savings!
- You will become a hero, and give a needy dog or cat a loving home. In fact, there are even Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen/Poodle (Miniature) breeders who help with Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen/Poodle (Miniature) rescue. One puppy or kitten adopted in Scottsdale paves the way for another one to be saved.


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Japandroids at Bluebird Theater, 11/18/12
Tom Murphy Japandroids at The Bluebird Theater
Brian King said that while he and David Prowse had had a blast at the Larimer Lounge this past June, they were going to do even better tonight he declared. As promised, the pair proceeded to do just that with every single one of the seventeen songs of their set with a display of raw power and passion the likes of which you almost never see. Appropriately enough the show got off the ground with "Adrenaline Nightshift."
See also: Brian King of Japandroids on Husker Du, the Gun Club and the lost art of album art
It was impressive how many people knew the words to so many of the band's songs last night. But then again, Japandroids have written anthemic tunes that stick with people like some pop punk bands did with kids in the '90s -- except these songs have connected with people of a broad age range. What person with feelings of discontent in this era of discontent couldn't feel like "Fire's Highway" speaks directly to a yearning for inspiration and finding a way of making your own?
While the outfit treated us to older songs like "Avant Sleepwalk" from its first 7-inch, the song that made people go nuts the most was "The Nights of Wine and Roses," a standout song among standout songs on Celebration Rock. When King jumped about the stage and lunged forward and then backward with the momentum of the music, you couldn't help but feel the exuberance and joyful release he and Prowse were able to unleash within themselves.
Tom Murphy Japandroids at The Bluebird Theater
At one point, King started playing the opening riff for what sounded like "One" by Metallica, and then he and Prowse crashed right into "Wet Hair." Later, King asked if anyone saw Japandroids the first time the band played in Denver at the hi-dive. Looked like no one had, and King said he'd be surprised if there were because there were about ten people at that show, and he recalled how he and Prowse had closed the show with the McClusky cover, "To Hell With Good Intentions."
Before playing that song, he said he had one more thing to get it off his chest and then he proceeded to tell us that the Avalanche suck. Some of us laughed. He then told us that we could come up to Vancouver and say the Canucks suck and that it would be only fair.
When the band played "The House That Heaven Built," even more bedlam broke out in the audience as people jumped up and forward down front, chanting along to the lyrics. As ever, King looked at times as though he was being dangled from a string, like he wasn't in complete control of his actions. Which just added to a sense of free, unbound energy on stage.
Tom Murphy Japandroids at The Bluebird Theater
This most dynamic and inspiring of shows, even better in many ways than the Larimer Lounge performance in June, ended with Japandroids' superb cover of the Gun Club's "For the Love of Ivy." King would deliver each stanza of lyrics with a mesmerizing burst of intense energy and then turn back and interact face to face with Prowse.
Both musicians really ramped up the energy with each iteration until the very end. There was no encore. But then how can you do an encore after such a blistering display for an hour and a half? It would have cheapened what Japandroids gave us in spades -- a fiery, sustained period of real inspiration and excitement. It was exactly the kind of thing maybe you didn't know you needed until you got it.
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Featured articles
Dog Poison Symptoms
How Much Exercise Should Your Puppy Get
Exercising your new puppy requires more than opening and closing the back door. All puppies need regular exercise in order to grow up to be healthy, well-developed dogs.
If you've ever been the proud owner of a puppy, you know just how much energy they have. However, one thing that many puppy owners don't realize is that despite all this play-time they actually need a certain amount of exercise in order to develop correctly. It's easy to think that because your puppy is outside a lot or enjoys running around in the yard, that they're getting enough exercise. In fact, it's important to work with your new puppy every day to be sure that he or she gets the physical activity necessary for proper growth.
For example, a puppy that's taken out for a walk on a leash for set thirty to forty-five minutes a day will develop much better than one who's just left in the yard to run and play on its own. This is because dogs can be just as lazy as humans. If they aren't made to get up and move around regularly, they may eventually adapt a more sedentary lifestyle.
In addition, if left on its own too much, the puppy might become destructive with your property. In search of a way to occupy its time and attention, your new puppy could very easily chew up something important or dig five new holes in your backyard. Spending time exercising your dog in a planned-out and timely manner can greatly help reduce the occurrence of bad behavior in many puppies.
While it may not be possible for you to walk your dog for thirty minutes or more a day, it's important that your dog engage in some form of controlled exercise for at least that long. Your "doggie exercise program" could be as simple as playing fetch with your puppy in the backyard with a tennis ball or a Frisbee. If you have a smaller dog, you could even spend time playing with one of his or her favorite toys on the living room floor for this amount of time.
If you want to be a little more complex with your solution, you could also enroll your puppy in an agility class. These classes involve courses that are set up for dogs to practice their agility through speed and strength training. While this may not appeal to all puppies, it's generally something that dogs of herding ancestry like collies, shepherds, and healers often enjoy very much. If you aren't sure whether or not your puppy would like this type of thing, contact an instructor to see if they'd be willing to let you and your dog sit in on a class or two without having to sign a large contract.
When you think about exercising your puppy, don't just think about the physical well-being of your dog. Also think about the emotional stability that you'll be created through this activity. Puppies that are regularly exercised and spend more time with their owners tend to be more socialized and better behaved dogs when they grow up. Getting into a good exercise routine when your dog is still a puppy will help them stay healthier longer you'll reap the benefits for years to come.


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POSTED: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 9:19am
UPDATED: Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 2:23pm
NASA has trouble with early morning rocket launch.
A new satellite designed to study the earth's carbon levels launched Tuesday morning failed to separate from its rocket.
The mishap means the orbiting carbon observatory launched from Vandenberg Air Force Base in California failed to reach its orbit.
NASA says the satellite did not separate from the rocket after take-off and the failure could jeopardize its mission to better understand climate change.
The satellite was supposed to have collected data about carbon dioxide and is meant to help scientists better forecast global climate change.


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Bangkok, Thailand, October 3rd, 2012 – Channel 7 and Honda Automobile (Thailand) Co., Ltd. are proud to announce the upcoming the ladies professional golf tournament "Honda LPGA THAILAND 2013" from February 21-24, 2013 at Siam Country Club Pattaya Old Course. Top 60 world's money list woman golfers and 10 exemptions will compete in the 72-hole stroke play tournament with no cut to win the prize money of 1.5 million USD or 4.5 million THB, with the special hole-in-one prize, All New CR-V.
According to Mr. Pitak Pruittisarikorn, Director of Asian Honda Motor Co., Ltd. and Executive Vice President of Honda Automobile (Thailand) Co., Ltd., "All 6 tournaments of Honda LPGA THAILAND proved to be very successful. As an official sponsor of the Honda LPGA THAILAND 2013, we are very pleased and honored to be a partner with Channel 7 to organize the 7th tournament. We are very proud to be a part to promote Thai woman golfers to demonstrate their golfing talents and skills and compete with top woman golfers from many countries around the world. This tournament also helps to boost Thailand to be a leading destination for world-class golfers while promote tourism for strengthening Thai economy."
"This tournament will showcase the world's top 60 woman golfers and 10 exemptions spots to compete in the 72-hole stroke play tournament with no cut to win the prize of 1.5 million USD and Honda Automobile (Thailand) Co., Ltd. will grant the all-new CR-V with a 2.4 liter engine (4-wheel drive), priced at 1,524,000 Baht to the golfer who can score a hole-in-one."
Besides, there's a Charity Night to raise fund for Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre of H.M Queen Sirikit of Thailand in order to support the local people helping generate more income and increase the economic status and their living standard including retaining the preservation of Thai local arts and handicrafts.
Mr. Saran Virutamavongsa, Managing Director of Bangkok Broadcasting & TV Co., Ltd. and Chairman of the Organizing Committee recapitulates, "Channel 7, as the promoter of the tournament Honda LPGA THAILAND for 7 years, are proud and honored that the quality and the standard of our golf tournament in Thailand is comparable to the other world-class golf tournaments in the region. We have attracted the world's best golfers to play here which is a testament to the confidence from all the golf players. We have focused our energy on making sure that everything is perfect: starting with the tournament organization, hospitality to the golf course Siam Country Club Pattaya Old Course. We believe that the tournament Honda LPGA THAILAND 2013 this year will be much more impressive, exciting and challenging than past years."
"The Honda LPGA THAILAND 2013 will be held from February 21-24, 2013 at Siam Country Club Pattaya old course and is one of the flagship events on the LPGA Tour. This tournament will showcase the world's top 60 woman golf players and 10 exemptions spots to compete in the 72-hole stroke play tournament with no cut to win the prize money of 1.5 million USD. Channel 7 will broadcast the tournament live across all 4 days."
In addition, Mr. Saran states that "For the last six editions of the Honda LPGA, we hope that this event has served as the platform for the development of women's golf in Thailand. We have given our youth golfers the exposure and opportunity play alongside the world's best golfers at the tournament and to compete at the highest level of women's golf. For 2013, we will continue to invite some Thai youth golfers to join and hopefully the Honda LPGA will inspire a new generation of Thailand golfers to reach new heights.
Tseng Yani, the winner of Honda LPGA THAILAND 2011 and 2012 talks about her memorable experiences in Thailand "I've played 4 times at the Honda LPGA and the best memories must be this year! There was a lot of excitement on the 18th hole, I had 90 yards to the pin and I know my ball is going to spin a lot I kept it low and made a birdie to win."
"I am excited to go back to see all my friends and the fans again. I love the golf course and there is nothing that I can complaint. I just really want to go back and play the golf course again and try to win again. I enjoy being in Thailand and I think the fans out there and the food are great. I really enjoy going to Thailand and I have so many good friends there."
Update the news of the ladies professional golf tournament, Honda LPGA THAILAND 2013, at www.hondalpgathailand2013.com
Topics: Press Release, Honda LPGA Thailand


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MIAMI-To mark Hispanic Heritage Month, Imusa has launched what it describes as the first at-home empanada maker.
The new product presses and bakes empanadas without the need for oil or butter. It comes with non-stick cooking plates for easy cleaning, auto-lock clips and "ready" lights. It's also designed for upright storage and with cord-wrap features, enabling it to be placed neatly in a cabinet.
Manny Gaunaurd, Imusa's president, said empanadas are shaping up to be the next major food trend. "The portable and versatile empanada…has the potential to be as popular in the U.S. as tacos and wraps," Gaunaurd said.


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Look and Feel
Sony's Xperia TX at first touch is super light weighing in at just 127g, it is definitely a light phone. It almost feels too light. The size of the phone is 131x 68.6 x 8.6mm - so it's not huge, but it sits in the hand well and with that 127g of weight - it's one of the lightest smartphones I've ever used.
The Xperia TX is definitely a great looking smartphone, with its curved back giving it a beautiful look. Starting at the front of the device, we'll begin with our photos.
The front of the Sony Xperia TX features the Sony logo at the top, to the right of which we have the front-facing 1.3-megapixel camera and to the right of that (which you can't see as it's not lit up) is an activity light. This will turn different colors depending on the activity - charging displays green, blue flashing means you have a message/e-mail/notification waiting. Down the bottom of the Xperia TX we have the XPERIA branding logo.
Flipping Xperia TX on its back we have the 13-megapixel rear-facing camera centered at the top of the device with the LED flash featured underneath. Down the bottom we have a nice XPERIA logo branding again. Under the branding, is the rear speaker.
On the right side of the phone we have the microUSB charging/syncing port, volume rocker and something we don't see often; a dedicated camera button. This button can be pressed to snap pictures, or begin the start of a video recording.
On the other side, we have the power button and opposite that, we have a little slit that you can use to open the phone up to get to the battery/SIM/microSD portion of the phone.
On the very top of the phone we have the usual 3.5mm headphone/speaker jack.
And with the Xperia TX, the bottom is spared - thanks to the microUSB port being on the right hand side of the handset.


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Bradford's Simon Ramsden has been sent to an injury rehabilitation specialist to boost his recovery from a persistent calf problem.
The 29-year-old's 2010/11 campaign was blighted by injury as he only featured on three occasions, and the defender made two appearances in pre-season for the Bantams.
Bradford boss Phil Parkinson feels that entrusting his recovery to specialists will be beneficial, and told the club's official website: "Simon is getting better all the time that I have been here, I've got to say.
"I've heard how he has had setbacks with his calf in the past but he's made progress in terms of being positive and he's running again.
"We felt he could do with four or five days at Lilleshall, where hopefully he will be getting specialist treatment all day. Hopefully he will come back to us next Monday, or not far off.
"People have written him off in the past but we hope he will be back in contention sooner rather than later."


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Sat, Jun 28, 08 at 15:43
Someone just gave me a few Jack in the Pulpit plants and bulbs. I've always wanted one of these plants, but I don't know much about them. I always think of them as shade loving plants, but my property has no shade at all yet, so I was wondering if I could plant them in full sun and expect them to survive. |
Follow-Up Postings:
- Posted by evonnestoryteller 5-6 (My Page) on Sat, Jun 28, 08 at 16:39
Mine not only grow in shade, they need moist earth. I have mine in the woods and in my moss garden. If you have a corner of the house that is mossy, it might be a nice spot for them. |
If you look at your yard, try to find a place that gets afternoon shade, perhaps because of the way a young tree or large shrub blocks the sun, that would be preferred. As the above poster said, moisture is appreciated, perhaps even the area where the a/c unit spills condensation. Good enough moisture will even help cope with a sunnier than usual location. |
- Posted by lumpygravy (My Page) on Sat, Jun 28, 08 at 19:02
That's going to be pretty tough for me. Can I grow them indoors in pots till I can create some shade? |
I wouldnt worry to much, I actually had one in my garden and it got quite a bit of sun and got HUGE!!. they are pretty hardy as long as you Keep it well watered. Im in zone 5/6 NE pa. We also have them in the woods. I live in the country and have seen them grow in the sunny spots in the woods(clearings). This particular Jack was in a wet spot. Hubby forgot it was there in the winter and put something on top of it. I was so mad! You might want to make a bog garden for it, it can add some other plants that like boggy soil. Good luck |
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Clippings by Wolvendeer |
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Earl�s Hole Method of Growing Tomatoes
posted by: earl on 01.15.2007 at 03:02 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum Earl�s Hole Method of Growing Tomatoes
Items from Walmart type garden center, 40 lb. bags of Composted Peat Humus, 40 lb. bags of Composted Cow Manure, Epson Salt and Bonemeal and Espoma Tomato-tone� 4-7-10 fertilizer or equivalent . In raised beds, after tilling, I dig good sized holes about 2 feet across, scattering the soil around the hole. Then to each hole I add � bag of the peat humus, 1/4 bag of the manure, then I scatter about the hole a handful each of Epson salts, Bonemeal and Espoma. Then I use a spade fork to mix the formula VERY well some inches beyond the depth and width of the original hole. If plants are indeterminate they should be planted at least 4 feet apart. I then, using my hands, I make a hole in the center of this mixture and plant the seedlings. If seedlings are tall I strip off the leaves except for the top few inches, and lay it at an angle or on its side in the hole and cover up to the leaves. Then I form a 4 inch deep water holding basin [a crater] about 1 1/2 feet across and around the plant, then mulch the plants and bed with straw or grass clippings, then water. Last I spread a handful of granular fertilizer such as Espoma Tomato-tone� 4-7-10 on top of the mulch around the plants so it will leach into soil over time and feed the outer roots for they grow wide and deep. I use concrete wire cages 18-20 inches across and anchor them with rebar driven deep next to the cage. When I have to water, if I don�t get rain in 7-10 days, I stick an open ended hose at the base of the plants and give them a couple gallons. Never over water. The plant�s leaves will tell you they�re thirsty by drooping a bit. As the plants grow, to help prevent leaf disease, trim any branches that droop and touch the mulch. During late summer if I think they need it I'll give each plant a couple gallons of fish emulsion or what ever liquid type I have. And if you have leaf problems, get started early using Daconil as soon as you plant, even saturate the mulch around the base as well as top and bottom of leaves. I can't say this is the best way to do it, but it works for me. Earl NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.24.2014 at 08:07 am last updated on: 03.24.2014 at 08:07 am
Propagation Chamber
posted by: jbest123 on 08.14.2007 at 03:50 pm in Plant Propagation Forum Let me start by saying that, I used the propagation box from Freeplants.com with great success. The box filled with wet coarse sand and an aquarium weighed 60 to 70 lb, which was a little to heavy for me to be moving around (I'm almost 70 yrs old). I made 6 boxed and they are still in good use by my Daughter and Son in law. I liked the idea of little_dani's Easy Propagation Chamber but thought it would be a little to small for my use.
I found 2 food storage containers at Walmart one a 20 quart and one a 12 quart with the same dimensions around the perimeter. I drilled six 5/8 in holes for drainage in the 12 quart container, and lade a piece of hardware cloth on the bottom to keep the potting soil from washing out. (photo 1) There is a little gap at both ends of the containers, allowing for ventilation, no need for further holes. ( photo 2) . For the potting soil I use 50/50 peat moss and vermiculite. What I like about the near transparent container for the bottom is you can see root development and water needs. Photo 3 shows root development and beads of condensation which indicates adequate air space and water. Each container will hold 120 to130 cuttings and all seem to be doing well and pass the tug test. (photo 4) When I stick the cuttings, I will leave them outside in the shade for 1 week and then move them to the greenhouse. Six chambers fit on an 8 ft shelf very nicely. (photo 5). I also use a 24 in bungie cord to keep the two containers aligned. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:39 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:39 pm
RE: Grocery store ginger root (Follow-Up #11)
posted by: TriangleJohn on 12.02.2005 at 04:14 pm in Ginger Forum I grow a ton of it in North Carolina zone 7b. I buy a root from the grocery store in February (make sure it is firm and not wrinkled or shriveled). I wrap it in a wet paper towel and place it inside a plastic sandwich bag. I put the bag in a warm dark place (on top of my fishtank works the best). Every week I open up the bag and unwrap the root to make sure it isn't rotting. If I see mold growing on it I gently clean it off with soapy water and re wrap with a new wet paper towel. Sometimes I see growth in the first week, sometimes it takes a few weeks. Once I see sprouts forming I find a plastic plant pot that is bigger than the whole root but not to much bigger. I fill it with potting soil and dampen it. I lay the unwrapped sprouting root on top of the soil. You can slightly bury it with damp soil or just leave it on top if you want - either way works fine.
I grow it as a houseplant for a month or so until the weather outside is reliably warm (you can just grow it all the time as a houseplant if you want). Ginger likes shade to part sun and rich dark soil that drains well (lots of compost or gravel - keep it fluffy). It likes warm weather but will survive the first frost as long as it isn't too severe. The hottest flavor is at about 265 days of growth so if you plant them inside in pots in March, by the end of October you will have the best roots. You can tell by looking at them if they are ready or not. I yank them out of the ground and lay them in the shade to dry for a few days before cutting them off the plants and cleaning them up. I make crystallized ginger candy out of them by boiling the cut up roots in sugar water and give them away as Christmas presents. They are always a big hit. NOTES: Should try this. Ginger is a useful plant to have around, especially for stomach problems. Also, I wonder what other root plants can be grown from the store?
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:27 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:28 pm
Tapla's 5-1-1 Container Mix in More Detail
posted by: goodhumusman on 02.26.2009 at 12:44 pm in Container Gardening Forum I recently joined the forum and discovered Al's 5-1-1 Mix, but I had several questions that Al was kind enough to answer by email. I also found the answers to other questions in several different threads. I thought it would be useful to organize all of the info in one place so that we could have easy access to it. 98% of the following has been cut/pasted from Al's postings, and I apologize in advance if I have somehow misquoted him or taken his ideas out of proper context. The only significant addition from another source is the Cornell method of determining porosity, which I thought would be germane. I have used a question and answer format, using many questions from other members, and I apologize for not giving them proper credit. Thanks to all who contributed to this information. Now, here's Al:
Tapla's 5-1-1 Mix 5 parts pine bark fines
Many friends & forum folk grow in this 5-1-1 mix with very good results. I use it for all my garden display containers. It is intended for annual and vegetable crops in containers. This soil is formulated with a focus on plentiful aeration, which we know has an inverse relationship w/water retention. It takes advantage of particles, the size of which are at or just under the size that would guarantee the soil retains no perched water. (If you have not already read Al's treatise on Water in Container Soils, this would be a good time to do so.) In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to ensure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function. I grow in highly-aerated soils with the bulk of the particles in the 1/16"-1/8" size, heavily favoring the larger particles, because we know that perched water levels decrease as particle size increases, until finally, as particle size reaches just under 1/8" the perched water table disappears entirely. Ideal container soils will have a minimum of 60-75% total porosity. This means that when dry, in round numbers, nearly 70% of the total volume of soil is air. The term 'container capacity' is a hort term that describes the saturation level of soils after the soil is saturated and at the point where it has just stopped draining - a fully wetted soil. When soils are at container capacity, they should still have in excess of 30% air porosity. Roughly, a great soil will have about equal parts of solid particles, water, and air when the soil is fully saturated. This is Cornell's method of determining the various types of porosity: To ensure sufficient media porosity, it is essential to determine total porosity, aeration porosity, and water-holding porosity. Porosity can be determined through the following procedure: * With drainage holes sealed in an empty container, fill the container and record the volume of water required to reach the top of the container. This is the container volume. * Empty and dry the plugged container and fill it with the growing media to the top of the container. * Irrigate the container medium slowly until it is saturated with water. Several hours may be required to reach the saturation point, which can be recognized by glistening of the medium's surface. * Record the total volume of water necessary to reach the saturation point as the total pore volume. * Unplug the drainage holes and allow the water to freely drain from the container media into a pan for several hours. * Measure the volume of water in the pan after all free water has completed draining. Record this as the aeration pore volume. * Calculate total porosity, aeration porosity, and water-holding porosity using the following equations (Landis, 1990): * Total porosity = total pore volume / container volume
The keys to why I like my 3-1-1 mix: It's adjustable for water retention.
Q. Why do you use pine bark fines? Bark fines of fir, hemlock or pine, are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that too quickly break down to a soup-like consistency. Conifer bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature�s preservative. Suberin, more scarce as a presence in sapwood products and hardwood bark, dramatically slows the decomposition of conifer bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains. Q. What is the correct size of the fines? In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to insure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function.Pine bark fines are partially composted pine bark. Fines are what are used in mixes because of the small particle size. There will be a naturally occurring "perched water table" (PWT) in containers when soil particulate size is under about .125 (1/8) inch, so best would be particulates in the 1/16 - 3/16 size range with the 1/16-1/8 size range favored. Note that there is no sand or compost in the soils I use. Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about � BB size I leave it out of soils. Compost is too unstable for me to consider using in soils. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources. Q. Do you use partially composted pine bark fines? Yes - preferred over fresh fines, which are lighter in color. Q. I found some Scotchman's Choice Organic Compost, which is made of pine bark fines averaging about 1/8" in size, and, after adding all ingredients, the 5-1-1 Mix had a total porosity of 67% and an aeration porosity of 37%. Is that all right? Yes, that is fine. Q. What kind of lime do you use? Dolomitic. Q. What amount of lime should I add if I used 10 gal of pine bark fines and the corresponding amount of the other ingredients? @ 5:1:1, you'll end up with about 12 gallons of soil (the whole is not equal to the sum of the parts when you're talking about soils), so I would use about 10-12 Tbsp or 2/3-3/4 cup of lime. Q. What grade of coarseness for the lime? Most is sold as garden lime, which is usually prilled powder. Prilling makes it easier to use in drop & broadcast spreaders. The prills dissolve quickly. The finer the powder the quicker the reactive phase is finished. Much of the Ca and Mg will be unavailable until the media pH equalizes so the plant can assimilate the residual elements. Large pieces of lime really extend the duration of the reactive phase. Q. Does this mean that I need to make up the soil in advance? Yes. 2 weeks or so should be enough time to allow for the reaction phase to be complete & residual Ca/Mg to become more readily available from the outset . Q. During those 2 weeks, do I need to keep turning it and moistening it? No Q. Can I go ahead and fill my 3-gal. containers, stack them 3-high, and cover the top one to prevent moisture loss during the waiting period? Something like that would be preferred. Q. The perlite I use has a large amount of powder even though it is called coarse. Do I need to sift it to get rid of the powder? Not unless it REALLY has a lot - then, the reason wouldn't be because of issues with particle size - it would be because you had to use larger volumes to achieve adequate drainage & larger volumes bring with it the possibility of Fl toxicity for some plants that are fluoride intolerant. Q. What about earthworm castings (EWC)? I think 10% is a good rule of thumb for the total volume of fine particles. I try to limit peat use to about 10-15% of soil volume & just stay away from those things that rob aeration & promote water retention beyond a minimal perched water table. If you start adding 10% play sand, 10% worm castings, 10% compost, 10% peat, 10% topsoil, 10% vermiculite to a soil, before long you'll be growing in something close to a pudding-like consistency. Q. Do you drench the mix with fertilized water before putting in containers? No - especially if you incorporate a CRF. It will have lots of fertilizer on it's surface & the soil could already be high in solubles. If you added CRF, wait until you've watered and flushed the soil a couple of times. If you didn't use CRF, you can fertilize with a weak solution the first time you water after the initial planting irrigation. Q. How much of the micronutrients should I add if I am going to be fertilizing with Foliage Pro 9-3-6, which has all the micronutrients in it? You won't need any additional supplementation as long as you lime.
Q. Do I need to moisten the peat moss before mixing with the pine bark fines? It helps, yes. Selections from Notes on Choosing a Fertilizer A) Plant nutrients are dissolved in water
All that is in the "Fertilizer Thread" I posted a while back. Q. Do you use the Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6 exclusively throughout the life of the plant, or change to something else for the flowering/fruiting stage? I use lots of different fertilizers, but if I had to choose only one, it would likely be the FP 9-3-6. It really simplifies things. There are very few plants that won't respond very favorably to this fertilizer. I use fast soils that drain freely & I fertilize at EVERY watering, and it works extremely well. If you are using a soil that allows you to water freely at every watering, you cannot go wrong by watering weakly weekly, and you can water at 1/8 the recommended dose at every watering if you wish with chemical fertilizers. Q. What about the "Bloom Booster" fertilizers? To induce more prolific flowering, a reduced N supply will have more and better effect than the high P bloom formulas. When N is reduced, it slows vegetative growth without reducing photosynthesis. Since vegetative growth is limited by a lack of N, and the photosynthetic machinery continues to turn out food, it leaves an expendable surplus for the plant to spend on flowers and fruit. There are no plants I know of that use anywhere near the amount of P as they do N (1/6 is the norm). It makes no sense to me to have more P available than N unless you are targeting a VERY specific growth pattern; and then the P would still be applied in a reasonable ratio to K. Somewhere along the way, we curiously began to look at fertilizers as miraculous assemblages of growth drugs, and started interpreting the restorative effect (to normal growth) fertilizers have as stimulation beyond what a normal growth rate would be if all nutrients were adequately present in soils. It�s no small wonder that we come away with the idea that there are �miracle concoctions� out there and often end up placing more hope than is reasonable in them. What I'm pointing out is that fertilizers really should not be looked at as something that will make your plant grow abnormally well - beyond its genetic potential . . . Fertilizers do not/can not stimulate super growth, nor are they designed to. All they can do is correct nutritional deficiencies so plants can grow normally. Q. Should I use organic ferts or chemical ferts in containers? Organic fertilizers do work to varying degrees in containers, but I would have to say that delivery of the nutrients can be very erratic and unreliable. The reason is that nutrient delivery depends on the organic molecules being broken down in the gut of micro-organisms, and micro-organism populations are boom/bust, varying widely in container culture. Some of the things affecting the populations are container soil pH, moisture levels, nutrient levels, soil composition, compaction/aeration levels ..... Of particular importance is soil temperatures. When container temperatures rise too high, microbial populations diminish. Temps much under 55* will slow soil biotic activity substantially, reducing or halting delivery of nutrients. I do include various formulations of fish emulsion in my nutrient program at certain times of the year, but I never rely on them, choosing chemical fertilizers instead. Chemical fertilizers are always immediately available for plant uptake & the results of your applications are much easier to quantify. Q. Should I feed the plants every time I water? In a word, yes. I want to keep this simple, so I�ll just say that the best water absorption occurs when the level of solutes in soil water is lowest, and in the presence of good amounts of oxygen. Our job, because you will not find a sufficient supply of nutrients in a container soil, is to provide a solution of dissolved nutrients that affords the plant a supply in the adequate to luxury range, yet still makes it easy for the plant to take up enough water to be well-hydrated and free of drought stress. All we need to do is supply nutrients in approximately the same ratio as plants use them, and in adequate amounts to keep them in the adequate to luxury range at all times. Remember that we can maximize water uptake by keeping the concentrations of solutes low, so a continual supply of a weak solution is best. Nutrients don�t just suddenly appear in large quantities in nature, so the low and continual dose method most closely mimics the nutritional supply Mother Nature offers. If you decide to adopt a "fertilize every time you water" approach, most liquid fertilizers can be applied at � to 1 tsp per gallon for best results. The system is rather self regulating if fertilizer is applied in low concentrations each time you water, even with houseplants in winter. As the plant�s growth slows, so does its need for both water and nutrients. Larger plants and plants that are growing robustly will need more water and nutrients, so linking nutrient supply to the water supply is a win/win situation all around. You can tell you've watered too much (or too little - the response is the same - a drought response) when leaves start to turn yellow or you begin to see nutritional deficiencies created by poor root metabolism (usually N and Ca are first evident). You can prevent overwatering by A) testing the soil deep in the container with a wood dowel ... wet & cool - do not water, dry - water. B) feeling the wick & only watering when it's dry C) feel the soil at the drain hole & only water when it feels dry there. Soils feel dry to our touch when they still have 40-45% moisture content. Plants, however, can still extract water from soils until they dry down to about 25-30%, so there is still around a 15% cush in that plants can still absorb considerable moisture after soils first feel dry to us. Q. When you water/fertilize, do you give it enough that 10% leaches out the bottom each time? Yes, I try to do that at every watering. Remember that as salts accumulate, both water and nutrient uptake is made more difficult and finally impaired or made impossible in severe cases. Your soils should always allow you to water so that at least 10-15% of the total volume of water applied passes through the soil and out the drain hole to be discarded. This flushes the soil and carries accumulating solutes out the drain hole. In addition, each thorough watering forces stale gases from the soil. CO2 accumulation in heavy soils is very detrimental to root health, but you usually can't apply water in volume enough to force these gases from the soil. Open soils allow free gas exchange at all times. Q. Should I elevate my pots? The container will not drain the same % of water if it's sitting in a puddle, but the % won't be particularly significant. What will be significant is: if water (in a puddle) is able to make contact with the soil in the container through surface tension and/or capillarity, it will "feed" and prolong the saturated conditions of any PWT that might be in the container. However, if water can soak in or if it will flow away from the containers, there's no advantage to elevating when you're not using a wick. Q. I like a pH of about 5.7. Is that about right? That's a good number, but you won't have any way of maintaining it in your soil w/o some sophisticated equipment. I never concern myself with media pH. That doesn't mean you should ignore water pH, though. It (water pH) affects the solubility of fertilizers; and generally speaking, the higher the water pH, the lower the degree of nutrient solubility. Q. How do you repot? Some plants do not take to root-pruning well (palms, eg), but the vast majority of them REALLY appreciate the rejuvenational properties of major root work. I'm not at all delicate in my treatment of rootage when it comes time to repot (completely different from potting-up). Usually I chop or saw the bottom 1/2-2/3 of the root mass off, bare-root the plant, stick it back in the same pot with ALL fresh soil, use a chopstick to move soil into all the spaces/pockets between roots, water/fertilize well & put in the shade for a week to recover. I should mention that this procedure is most effective on plants with woody roots, which most quickly grow to be inefficient as they lignify, thicken, and fill the pot. Those plants with extremely fibrous root systems are easier to care for. For those, I usually saw off the bottom 1/2 - 2/3 of the roots, work a chopstick through the remaining mat of roots, removing a fair amount of soil, prune around the perimeter & repot in fresh, well-aerated soil. I find that time after time, plants treated in this fashion sulk for a week or two and then put on a huge growth spurt (when repotted in spring or summer). Growth INVARIABLY surpasses what it would have been if the plant was allowed to languish in it's old, root-bound haunts. Potting up is a temporary way to rejuvenate a plant, but if you look ate a long-term graph of plants continually potted-up, you will see continual decline with little spurts of improved vitality at potting-up time. This stress/strain on plants that are potted-up only, eventually takes its toll & plants succumb. There is no reason most houseplants shouldn't live for years and years, yet we often content ourselves with the 'revolving door replacement' of our plants when just a little attention to detail would allow us to call the same plant our friend - often for the rest of our lives if we prefer. Q. Is there any rule of thumb as to how often to root prune? I'm going to answer as if you included 'repotting' in your question. There is no hard, fast rule here. Some of you grow plants strictly for the blooms, and some plants produce more abundant blooms in containers when they are stressed in some manner. Often, that stress is in the form of keeping them root-bound. I'll talk about maintaining a plant's vitality & let you work out how you want to handle the degree of stress you wish to subject them to, in order to achieve your goals. Before I go on, I'd like to say that I use stress techniques too, to achieve a compact, full plant, and to slow growth of a particularly attractive plant - to KEEP it attractive. ;o) The stress of growing a plant tight can be useful to a degree, but at some point, there will be diminishing returns. When you need to repot to correct declining vitality: 1) When the soil has collapsed/compacted, or was too water-retentive from the time you last potted-up or repotted. You can identify this condition by soil that remains wet for more than a few days, or by soil that won't take water well. If you water a plant and the soil just sits on top of the soil w/o soaking in, the soil has collapsed/compacted. There is one proviso though: you must be sure that the soil is wet before you assess this condition. Soils often become hydrophobic (water repellent) and difficult to rewet, especially when using liquid organic fertilizers like fish/seaweed emulsions. Make sure this effect is not what you're witnessing by saturating the soil thoroughly & then assessing how fast the water moves downward through the soil. The soils I grow in are extremely fast and water disappears into the mix as soon as it's applied. If it takes more than 30 seconds for a large volume of water to disappear from the surface of the soil, you are almost certainly compromising potential vitality. I'll talk about the potential vitality for just a sec. Plants will grow best in a damp soil with NO perched water. That is NO saturated layer of water at the bottom of the pot. Roots begin to die a very short time after being subjected to anaerobic conditions. They regenerate again as soon as air returns to the soil. This cyclic death/regeneration of roots steals valuable energy from the plant that might well have been employed to increase o/a biomass, and/or produce flowers and fruit. This is the loss of potential vitality I refer to. 2) When the plant is growing under tight conditions and has stopped extending, it is under strain, which will eventually lead to its death. "Plants must grow to live. Any plant that is not growing is dying." Dr. Alex Shigo Unless there are nutritional issues, plants that have stopped extending and show no growth when they should be coming into a period of robust growth usually need repotting. You can usually confirm your suspicions/diagnosis by looking for rootage "crawling" over the soil surface and/or growing out of the drain hole, or by lifting the plant from its pot & examining the root mass for encircling roots - especially fat roots at the container's edge. You'll be much less apt to find these types of roots encircling inner container perimeter in well-aerated soils because the roots find the entire soil mass hospitable. Roots are opportunistic and will be found in great abundance at the outside edge of the soil mass in plantings with poor drainage & soggy soil conditions - they're there looking for air. 3) When the soil is so compacted & water retentive that you must water in sips and cannot fully flush the soil at each watering for fear of creating conditions that will cause root rot. This isn't to say you MUST flush the soil at every watering, but the soil should drain well enough to ALLOW you to water this way whenever you prefer. This type of soil offers you the most protection against over-watering and you would really have to work hard at over-fertilizing in this type of soil. It will allow you to fertilize with a weak solution at every watering - even in winter if you prefer. Incidentally, I reject the frequent anecdotal evidence that keeping N in soils at adequacy levels throughout the winter "forces" growth or "forces weak growth". Plants take what they need and leave the rest. While there could easily be the toxicity issues associated with too much fertilizer in soils due to a combination of inappropriate watering practices, inappropriate fertilizing practices, and an inappropriate soil, it's neither N toxicity NOR the presence of adequate N in soils that causes weak growth, it's low light levels. Q. Is there any rule of thumb as to how often to remove and replace the old soil? Yes - every time you repot. As always, I hope that those who read what I say about soils will ultimately take with them the idea that the soil is the foundation of every container planting & has effects that reach far beyond the obvious, but there is a snatch of lyrics from an old 70's song that might be appropriate: "... just take what you need and leave the rest ..." ;o) NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:22 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:22 pm
Container soils and water in containers (long post)
posted by: tapla on 03.19.2005 at 03:57 pm in Container Gardening Forum The following is very long & will be too boring for some to wade through. Two years ago, some of my posts got people curious & they started to e-mail me about soil problems. The "Water Movement" article is an answer I gave in an e-mail. I saved it and adapted it for my bonsai club newsletter & it was subsequently picked up & used by a number of other clubs. I now give talks on container soils and the physics of water movement in containers to area clubs.
I think, as container gardeners, our first priority is to insure aeration for the life of the soil. Since aeration and drainage are inversely linked to soil particle size, it makes good sense to try to find a soil component with particles larger than peat and that will retain its structure for extended periods. Pine bark fits the bill nicely. The following hits pretty hard against the futility of using a drainage layer in an attempt to improve drainage. It just doesn't work. All it does is reduce the soil available for root colonization. A wick will remove the saturated layer of soil. It works in reverse of the self-watering pots widely being discussed on this forum now. I have no experience with these growing containers, but understand the principle well. There are potential problems with wick watering that can be alleviated with certain steps. Watch for yellowing leaves with these pots. If they begin to occur, you need to flush the soil well. It is the first sign of chloride damage. One of the reasons I posted this is because of the number of soil questions I'm getting in my mail. It will be a convenient source for me to link to. I will soon be in the middle of repotting season & my time here will be reduced, unfortunately, for me. I really enjoy all the friends I've made on these forums. ;o) Since there are many questions about soils appropriate for containers, I'll post by basic mix in case any would like to try it. It will follow the Water Movement info. Water Movement in Soils Consider this if you will: Soil need fill only a few needs in plant culture. Anchorage - A place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Sink - It must retain sufficient nutrients to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - It must be sufficiently porous to allow air to the root system. And finally, Water - It must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Most plants could be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water, (witness hydroponics). Here, I will concentrate primarily on the movement of water in soil(s). There are two forces that cause water movement through soil - one is gravity, the other capillary action. Gravity needs little explanation, but for this writing I would like to note: Gravitational flow potential (GFP) is greater for water at the top of the pot than it is for water at the bottom of the pot. I'll return to that later. Capillarity is a function of the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water's tendency to stick to solid objects like soil particles and the sides of the pot. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself. Cohesion is why we often find water in droplet form - because cohesion is at times stronger than adhesion, water�s bond to itself can be stronger than the bond to the object it might be in contact with; in this condition it forms a drop. Capillary action is in evidence when we dip a paper towel in water. The water will soak into the towel and rise several inches above the surface of the water. It will not drain back into the source. It will stop rising when the GFP equals the capillary attraction of the fibers in the paper. There is, in every pot, what is called a "perched water table" (PWT). This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated & will not drain at the bottom of the pot. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will equal the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is "perched". If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration. From this we can draw the conclusion that: Tall growing containers are a superior choice over squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: The level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. Physiology dictates that plants must be able to take in air at the roots in order to complete transpiration and photosynthesis. A given volume of large soil particles have less overall surface area in comparison to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Large particles mixed with small particles will not improve drainage because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. Water and air cannot occupy the same space at the same time. Contrary to what some hold to be true, sand does not improve drainage. Pumice (aka lava rock), or one of the hi-fired clay products like Turface are good additives which help promote drainage and porosity because of their irregular shape. Now to the main point: When we use a coarse drainage layer under our soil, it does not improve drainage. It does conserve on the volume of soil required to fill a pot and it makes the pot lighter. When we employ this exercise in an attempt to improve drainage, what we are actually doing is moving the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This reduces available soil for roots to colonize, reduces total usable pot space, and limits potential for beneficial gas exchange. Containers with uniform soil particle size from top of container to bottom will yield better drainage and have a lower PWT than containers with drainage layers. The coarser the drainage layer, the more detrimental to drainage it is because water is more (for lack of a better scientific word) reluctant to make the downward transition because the capillary pull of the soil above the drainage layer is stronger than the GFP. The reason for this is there is far more surface area in the soil for water to be attracted to than there is in the drainage layer. I know this goes against what most have thought to be true, but the principle is scientifically sound, and experiments have shown it as so. Many nurserymen are now employing the pot-in-pot or the pot-in-trench method of growing to capitalize on the science. If you discover you need to increase drainage, insert a wick into the pot & allow it to extend from the PWT to several inches below the bottom of the pot. This will successfully eliminate the PWT & give your plants much more soil to grow in as well as allow more, much needed air to the roots. Uniform size particles of fir, hemlock or pine bark are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that rapidly break down to a soup-like consistency. Bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as nature�s preservative. Suberin is what slows the decomposition of bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains. In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve to death because they cannot obtain sufficient air at the root zone for the respiratory or photosynthetic processes. To confirm the existence of the PWT and the effectiveness of using a wick to remove it, try this experiment: Fill a soft drink cup nearly full of garden soil. Add enough water to fill to the top, being sure all soil is saturated. Punch a drain hole in the bottom of the cup & allow to drain. When the drainage stops, insert a wick several inches up into the drain hole . Take note of how much additional water drains. This is water that occupied the PWT before being drained by the wick. A greatly simplified explanation of what occurs is: The wick "fools" the water into thinking the pot is deeper, so water begins to move downward seeking the "new" bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the PWT along with it. Having applied these principles in the culture of my containerized plants, both indoors and out, for many years, the methodology I have adopted has shown to be effective and of great benefit to them. I use many amendments when building my soils, but the basic building process starts with screened bark and perlite. Peat usually plays a very minor role in my container soils because it breaks down rapidly and when it does, it impedes drainage. My Soil I'll give two recipes. I usually make big batches. 3 parts pine bark fines
Big batch: 3 cu ft pine bark fines (1 big bag)
Small batch: 3 gallons pine bark
I have seen advice that some highly organic soils are productive for up to 5 years. I disagree. Even if you were to substitute fir bark for pine bark in this recipe (and this recipe will far outlast any peat based soil) you should only expect a maximum of three years life before a repot is in order. Usually perennials, including trees (they're perennials too, you know ;o)) should be repotted more frequently to insure vigor closer to genetic potential. If a soil is desired that will retain structure for long periods, we need to look to inorganic amendments. Some examples are crushed granite, pea stone, coarse sand (no smaller than BB size in containers, please), Haydite, lava rock, Turface or Schultz soil conditioner. I hope this starts a good exchange of ideas & opinions so we all can learn. Al NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:18 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:18 pm
RE: potting soil and first time doing propa (Follow-Up #7)
posted by: mizzyjo on 08.20.2013 at 01:24 am in Plant Propagation Forum No, potting soil is too rich for rooting cuttings as you don't want to feed them, just root them. Use a vermiculite/perlite mix. It drains well, stays moist and is light enough for young roots to grow through.
Any rooting medium will work, like willow water or commercial rooting hormone. You can take cuttings from the tips or all along the branch. They should be at least the diameter of a pencil. Make sure you have leaf buds on them. Peel the bark from the bottom 1/2 to 1 inch to help rooting. Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb NOTES: I've seen recommendations for vermiculite/perlite, and 50/50 or 80/20 perlite/peat. Best to experiment.
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:13 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:14 pm
RE: potting soil and first time doing propa (Follow-Up #6)
posted by: kayjones on 08.17.2013 at 12:43 pm in Plant Propagation Forum Here's what I found out about the shelf life of rooting hormone powder:
If the rooting hormone powder is too old it will be ineffective in encouraging root development. The U.S. Forest Service says rooting hormone powder will keep for 18 to 24 months if stored in an airtight container in a dark, cool place such as the refrigerator. The Forest Service advises gardeners to record the purchase date on the product container and to discard rooting hormones more than two years old. To maximize effective life of the product, the Forest Service advises users to pour out a small quantity of the rooting powder in a separate container for dipping cuttings and not to return any leftovers to the main container. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:12 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:12 pm
RE: any advice on best rooting hormone? (Follow-Up #14)
posted by: kstrong on 01.29.2011 at 10:54 am in Roses Forum Preferably use a rooting hormone that contains both IBA and NAA. I believe Rootone is solely the IBA component. And warm and moist and sterile is also necessary.
As for the one's that are solely IBA, Lee Valley Tools Root Stimulator has also worked well for me. Here is a link that might be useful: Wood's Rooting Hormone NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:10 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:10 pm
RE: any advice on best rooting hormone? (Follow-Up #12)
posted by: mad_gallica on 01.28.2011 at 01:13 pm in Roses Forum By spring, you mean June, right? The easiest cuttings to root are from flowering stems.
NOTES: From other posts, it notes that it may be best to wait until the nights are consistently above 70 degrees F.
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 08:08 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 08:10 pm
Easy Propagation Chamber
posted by: little_dani on 10.05.2005 at 08:34 pm in Plant Propagation Forum I make a little propagation chamber that is so easy, and so reliable for me that I thought I would share the idea. I have not seen one like it here, and I did look through the FAQ, but didn't find one there either. I hope I did not miss it, and I hope I do not offend anyone by being presumptive in posting this here.
That said.... This is what you will need.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 07:59 pm last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 07:59 pm
It's August and time for the 'toothpick' technique
posted by: nandina on 08.23.2006 at 01:13 pm in Plant Propagation Forum I have not posted this propagation method in several years. Time for a repeat. Just a reminder that all cuttings need to callus before they will root. This method allows the callusing to take place on the mother plant before the cutting is removed and is most helpful for those hard to root trees/shrubs. Plan to use the toothpick technique during the last weeks of August up until mid-September. This is a little known process and when I first posted it a number of growers contacted me, pleased to know about it as it requires no misting systems, etc.
2. Place the block of wood behind that point and make a single VERTICAL cut all the way through the stem, just below the bud. 3. Insert a toopick through the cut. 4. Mark each cutting with colored yarn/tape so that you can locate it at a later date. 5. Walk away from your toothpick cuttings until the end of October or November. Leave them alone! 6. REMOVING THE CUTTINGS FROM THE MOTHER PLANT.
7. Dip your cuttings in rooting hormone and set them in a cold frame. Water well and close up the frame for the winter. Water as needed. If you do not have a cold frame, set the cuttings right next to your house foundation on the east or north side. Lean an old window or glass pane up against the foundation to protect them. 8. Rooting should take place by mid-spring. Those with greenhouses can leave the cuttings on the mother plant into December/January before setting them to root. Commercial propagators will find this useful. A VARIATION OF THE TOOTHPICK TECHNIQUE
Hopefully I have explained this method so it is understood. Reading it over a few times may be necessary. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 07:08 pm last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 07:08 pm


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Many people in India didn't think Indian Mujahideen as serious threat when they first took the responsibility of serial bomb blasts in Jaipur and UP. However, by taking responsibility of recent bomb blasts in Ahmedabad and New Delhi, Indian mujahideen has shown to India that it is a real new threat for its security.
Indian security agencies believe that Indian Mujahideen is not a new terrorist outfit but combination of old terrorist outfits with new names. It is also believed that terrorists of Bangladeshi origin have great role in this outfit. The major worrying sign about this outfit is that they look to be very strong in IT and planning skills.
So far Indian security agencies have remained total failure in getting any know about of these terrorists. Though, Gujarat police is claiming some breakthrough in Ahmedabad blast case but recent attacks in Delhi say something else. In recent times, terrorism has again emerged as big threat for India and India needs to face with threat with lot of preparation.
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Spinal cord injuries (SCIs) can be classified based on function (how much feeling and movement you have) or on where the damage occurred. When a nerve in the spinal cord is injured, the nerve location and number are often used to describe how much damage there is. For example, a C7 injury is associated with the seventh cervical nerve of the neck and its effect on feeling and movement. Saying you are a C7 communicates that you can feed yourself and partially dress yourself but may need help bathing, and so on. C7 is known as the functional level of injury. These classifications are often used by people who have SCIs to describe themselves.
The spinal cord is surrounded by protective rings of bone called vertebrae. The vertebrae and spinal nerves are organized into segments, starting at the top of the spinal cord. Within each segment, the vertebrae and nerves are numbered. The segments are as follows:
The higher the damage occurs on the spinal cord, the more of the body is affected. This is because the nerves in the area of a vertebra control body parts in that area. When the spinal cord is damaged, messages cannot "jump over" the damaged area. This means that messages sent from the brain cannot make it to body parts below the damaged area, and vice versa. Thus, the body at and below the level of injury is affected.
For example, in an injury to the spinal nerves in the neck area (C1 through C8), messages are stopped in the neck area. This usually results in at least some paralysis of the chest, arms, and legs (tetraplegia, also known as quadriplegia). In an L3 injury, messages are stopped at the lower back. This results in at least some paralysis of the legs and hips (paraplegia).
SCIs are also described as complete and incomplete, and an incomplete injury is further classified into four subsections. The American Spinal Injury Association (ASIA) classifies SCIs as follows:
Classification | Description |
A | Complete: No feeling or movement of the areas of your body that are controlled by your lowest sacral nerves. This means you do not have feeling around the anus or control of the muscle that closes the anus. People with complete SCI do not have control of bowel and bladder function. |
B | Incomplete: Feeling but no movement below the level of injury, including sacral segments that control bowel and bladder function. |
C | Incomplete: Feeling and movement below the level of injury. More than half of key muscles can move, but not against gravity. Moving against gravity means moving up, for example, raising your hand to your mouth when you are sitting up. |
D | Incomplete: Feeling and movement below the level of injury. More than half of key muscles can move against gravity. |
E | Feeling and movement are normal. |
ByHealthwise Staff
Primary Medical Reviewer Adam Husney, MD - Family Medicine
Specialist Medical Reviewer Nancy Greenwald, MD - Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation
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In some more depressing news for prospective Wii U buyers, it has been confirmed that the Wii U will not receive a price drop here in Australia or New Zealand.
Last night Nintendo of America slashed $50 from the price of their console and announced a cool new Wind Waker HD bundle. We're not lucky enough to get either unfortunately.
However, while Nintendo Australia isn't cutting the price of the Wii U just yet, they probably will eventually. Just not any time before Christmas. Everything is now locked into place for 2013.
Will this impact your decision to pick up a Wii U this year?
Source: Kotaku AU