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When I took my three bags of cuttings out of the fridge on Sunday several had mold growing on them. I brushed them off and the redipped all the cuttings in a 10% bleach solution before wrapping in paper towels and placing in Ziplocs to start rooting. Unfortunately the mold has returned with a vengeance after a few days.
Are these cuttings no longer viable or can they be recleaned and tried again? I was thinking that the Ziplock method would promote mold, shall I try them i potting soil? thanks, Rob |
Follow-Up Postings:
I am having a hard time with mold this year, too. Last year, I would inspect cuttings each week, and usually had to deal with mold, would just clean as best as I could, and keep going. The only cuttings I discarded were ones that were really dead. I ended up with 10 or more trees from that batch. I would say don't give up on them until they are either totally dried out, or mushy. Carrie |
- Posted by recoil_rob 6 (My Page) on Fri, May 21, 10 at 9:58
Thanks Carrie, Are you bagging them? thanks, Rob |
Sorry, I just saw your question. I was bagging them to begin with, but after the second or third time opening them and the mold had come back, I decided to do it differently. I have them in a very large rubbermaid bin(with a lid that can snap on), with a rubber coated metal shelf with a mesh pattern for the shelf. I have barely damp perlite in the bottom, and the cuttings are stuck through the shelf mesh standing upright with their bottoms in the perlite, or on top of it(this gives them a good bit of space between each cutting, so they do not touch). I seemed to have figured out something that does help with the mold a bit; I will open the bin every day or two and spray with a neem oil fungicide. It is helping keep it at bay, and adds moisture, too. I keep the lid on the bin all the time, in between spraying. We'll see if it keeps working. Carrie |
- Posted by recoil_rob 6 (My Page) on Sun, Jun 6, 10 at 16:16
Carrie, Any success with your method? I have been battling the mold and think I'm losing and about to change tactics. My cuttings seem to be sprouting roots all along their length. Anyway, it's a white stubble, in some instances it seems to bursting out of the wood like white frosting. Some of my cuttings are showing buds and leaf but whenever I brush the mold off most of the roots and buds come with it. I may have to try a system like yours. thanks, Rob |
The baggy method works great for most people but mold is an issue for me too. I just bypass the baggy method all together. I plant dormant cuttings in one liter water bottles using a mixture of 50% sphagnum peat moss 25% potting soil and 25% sand. I like 6-8" cuttings planted with only 1 1/2-2" above the soil line. I just set them outside inside a planter where they would get shade and partial morning sun and watered them as needed. This last season I screwed up and let them dry out too much after rooting so my end results were only about 75%. It was a real shame too because nearly all of them rooted. |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Fri, Jun 11, 10 at 9:58
Rob, From my experience using the baggie method, the cause of MOST molding issues is due to the condition of the cuttings when they were taken and the their subsequent handling & storage conditions. When cuttings are taken and stored properly it is very easy to propagate them without any molding issues whatsoever when using the Improved Baggie Method. That method was especially designed to minimize mold. FYI, the white frosting that you have described is not mold. It is "Barking"......some cuttings will produce this material while most will not. Roots initials will appear near a leaf node or segment. The "white stuff" that appears between the segments is usually only Barking. It is irregular in shape and is not round in shape like most root initials. When you open your baggies and see this stuff forming on the bark of your cutting....just remove it (the white powdery stuff) with a gentle wipe of a toothbrush. No need to again use Clorox since it is not mold. Avoid wiping too hard in the node area where you will see those "round" spots or dots near where the roots will emerge. You want to remove the Barking when you see it because it will hold too much water during rooting. This can lessen your rooting success if not removed. A big advantage of the baggie method is that you have a chance to remove this Barking as it forms....preventing it from becoming problematic later on in the rooting process. Dan |
- Posted by recoil_rob 6 (My Page) on Fri, Jun 11, 10 at 11:50
Dan, I have all three, root initials at the bottoms, barking on the sides of some and mold on the bud ends of most. |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Fri, Jun 11, 10 at 13:13
Two things that cause mold to form on the bud ends......1) damaged buds (from cold temperatures or some other injury and 2)from "condensation" that forms on the buds due to temperature differentials in the rooting environment. When opening your paper towels for inspection during baggie method, remove any LIQUID water that you see forming along the length of the cutting and on any buds. Also, try to keep the rooting temperature near constant.....if you do, you will not see any condensation forming anywhere on your cuttings. Likewise, you want to remove ANY liquid water that you see forming on any cutting tips or tiny opening buds when rooting in clear plastic cups. This is VERY IMPORTANT and only takes you one second to remove it with a dry paper towel. That uncontrolled moisture is often what causes mold......so remove it with a dry paper towel whenever you see it. Follow good fig cutting procurement & storage practices as well as rooting methods that are designed to PREVENT mold from occurring in the first place. Because, once mold forms on your cuttings, it is difficult to remove. Once it reaches the cambium layer of your cutting.....it is nearly impossible to remove. Dan |
Rob - you can jump through a hundred hoops and you'll still be spinning your wheels. If you are using container media as part of your rooting strategy, and you DO have mold/fungal issues, it's VERY likely that the medium is the source of your fungaluglies. There are thousands of species of molds and none or almost none require condensate to reproduce or to wreak havoc on cuttings. The various species of molds have a tremendous tolerance for the extremes of temperature and humidity levels. Many molds are active at temperatures below 40*, and can grow very well on surfaces that feel dry when we touch them. The two things required for mold to grow are mold spores and a suitable environment. We are absolutely certain that cuttings contain moisture - probably about as much as that in the skin of an orange, yet mold grows very well on orange skins (and dry bread) if we keep them exposed to the same temperature at which we would keep our cuttings. It's impossible to maintain perfectly stable temperatures in any type of propagation chamber the hobby grower might be using, and it makes absolutely no sense that near stable temperatures would inhibit reproduction of mold species. Perhaps Dan might cite something believable - something other than anecdote. You can't just pull a notion out of the air and treat it as fact when you present a case. Imagine you have a closed system, such as a Ziploc bag with a cutting suspended in it and a moist medium in the bottom of the bag. The air in the closed bag will soon reach 100% relative humidity, making the dew point whatever the air temperature is. Dew will form on all surfaces inside the bag. As soon as there is a tiny upward temperature fluctuation in ambient temperatures, the bag will be warmer than the cutting and condensation will be most prevalent on the coolest surface, which will temporarily be the cutting - until the temperature of the cutting equalizes with the temperature of the bag. No matter how hard you wish it differently, it WILL happen as I described. As far as I know, relative humidity and dew points work the same today as they did yesterday. If the bag or propagation chamber is vented, it still isn't important to keep temperatures stable to to keep dew from forming on the cuttings. E.g., if the bag or propagation chamber was vented so you were maintaining 90% relative humidity, you have a 3* range to play with. As long as the temperature of the cutting was never any more than 3* cooler than the air surrounding the cutting, no condensate would form on the cutting. If you maintained 80% relative humidity in the propagation chamber the dew point would be 6* cooler than air temp and at 70* it would be 9*. From this you can easily see that the idea that simply maintaining a stable temperature in hopes that it will eliminate moisture formation on cuttings is pure bunk. Temperature can change over a wide range. Technically, ambient air temperatures can fall very quickly in a vented system and no condensation will form on the cutting, but when temperatures rise, they must rise slowly enough that there is only a 3* difference (or less) in temperature between the cutting and air temperature at 90% relative humidity, a 6* difference at 80% and a 9* difference at 70% relative humidity. This can be easily verified. I totally agree that we should "Follow good fig cutting procurement & storage practices as well as rooting methods ...", but cannot understand how in one breath someone could preach cleanliness, sterility, and jumping through 100 hoops, and in the next suggest a rooting medium guaranteed to contain millions of fungal (mold) spores. Al |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Sat, Jun 12, 10 at 0:42
Here we go again..... Al, I'm sorry that you do not seem to understand some very simple scientific concepts. I do not have the patience nor the desire to teach them to you. For you to try to preach to me about dew points, humidity, and condensation is absolutely ridiculous. I am an EXPERT in that area of physical chemistry. Uncontrolled moisture (condensation in this case) is about absolute humidity, relative humidity, temperature, & atmospheric pressure and how these independant variables affect each other. What I have posted is for the benefit of others seeking solutions to their mold problems. Contrary to your beliefs, what I have posted works and works very well. Let me repeat that.....IT WORKS VERY WELL. Funny how you continue to argue against PROVEN RESULTS and any viable alternatives to your way of doing things. Funny how you seem to understand osmosis going in one direction and do not seem to understand that it CAN go both ways. I am tiring of your continuing attitude that only your way is the right way. What could possibly be wrong with a detailed rooting method that consistently yields a near 100% rooting success? Why do you continue to bash it while you still have not even posted your preferred "chainsaw" method?? For the umpteenth time, it is THE RESULTS that matter not your pet theories. What part of RELIABLE AND PROVEN RESULTS do you not understand??? In the arena of science, RESULTS trump "theory" every time. Too bad if you do not see the merits of the superior (yes I said SUPERIOR) perlite/UPM rooting mix and the proven benefits derived from rooting at near a constant room temperature. Too bad if you do not understand the mold triangle and how it is used to PREVENT mold. It is time for you to stop with your declared "stamping out" campaign against my posts. For the umpteenth time, the information that I post on this fig forum is good, relevant, useful, and very reliable information that is intended for open minded forum members. Anyone (including you) can verify for themselves the validity of what I have posted in this thread. Fig Horticulture is NOT a science.... there are many ways to propagate fig cuttings and there are many ways to grow them. My viewpoint is a valid one. It's just too bad if what I post does not agree with some of your past posts....get over it. Dan |
Again you sidestep and just tell everyone how good your information is and how expert you are, but don't address any of the issues I pointed out. You'd have people jumping through a bunch of unnecessary hoops only to advise them to undo their efforts by sticking cuttings in an unsterile mudium, then lay the blame at their feet when their efforts end in failure. As I've pointed out, there are MANY rooting methods that work very well with figs because of their genetic vigor; and the only reason there aren't even more problems with rooting in bags is because figs ARE so vigorous - not because the rooting method is anything other than mediocre. I'm not bashing you, or arguing FOR any particular method(s), much less anything I would be so presumptuous as to call mine. I'm offering a different perspective on all these directives and observations (that go totally against sound science) you pull out of the air with no support and seem to think are helpful, while using proven science and my own practical experience to point out exactly why they are not. Al |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Sat, Jun 12, 10 at 14:26
Al, you are sooooooooo misguided by some of your pet theories and beliefs. See, I believe that you are misguided as much as you think that I am misguided.....tit for tat. IMO, this keeps you from recognizing the merits of what others have to say about fig horticulture on this forum. Regarding my answering your questions. As you have told me before......"I don't dance to your tune" either. However, please keep right on reading my posts and maybe you will learn a few "new" things about FIGS. NO ONE has cornered the market on fig horticulture & knowledge and that's why we all come here and read the posts. I enjoy posting and reading information about FIGS and really could care less about the propagation & growing of other plants. I am prepared to have others determine the validity and the practicality of my suggestions. Can you say the same?? Wasn't it you that had problems with those "supposedly bad" phyto toxins....Bleach and Caustic Soap? Do you still believe that those chemicals are harmful to cuttings?? Maybe you have changed your position because now we know that many forum members KNOW FROM THIER OWN FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE that these bad toxic chemicals can be very helpful in improving their fig cutting rooting success. Also, aren't you a leading proponent of using a heating mat in an indoor rooting environment where IT IS ABSOLUTELY NOT NEEDED??? It is a fact that heating mats can do more damage than good. Is that an indoor rooting technique that you are still trying to defend??? The fact remains......uneven heating caused by heating pads and/or other heat sources is often the MAIN REASON why many hobby forum members lose their cuttings to mold and rot. That is why rooting at a near constant room temperature is much better. Try to understand and appreciate this fact even if it conflicts with your past posts and suggestions. There is no telling how much fig wood has been lost due to the improper use of unnecessary heating pads.....probably enough to build many houses. You say, " Dan would have people jumping through a bunch of unnecessary hoops only to advise them to undo their efforts by sticking cuttings in an non sterile medium, then lay the blame at their feet when their efforts end in failure." To that I say MEGA BALONEY!!!! Try actually reading my posts rather than merely reacting to them and looking for some "nit" to pick. What I ALWAYS SAY when trying to help others deal with mold is for them to lean HOW TO PREVENT it from occurring in the first place. Need proof.....re-read what information that I have posted above. Did you not see that I identified a "Barking" problem for the OP and suggested ways him to deal with it?? Where have you seen such practical information before???? Don't you think it important to teach new fig rooters the difference between Barking and mold??? And how to deal with those situations?? Too, I did not see you offering any advice to the original poster......why not?? No, you chose to go with another of your "stamping out" Dan's mis information BS sessions immediately following my helpful suggestions to the original poster. It is time for you to stop that behavior. Stop it. FYI.....Once mold starts, rooters will have problems even if the cuttings are placed in a "sterile" medium. Contrary to your belief..... rooting in UPM DOES NOT INCREASE problems with mold. In fact, it is very easy to root fig cuttings with MONSTER ROOTS using UPM without ever seeing any mold whatsoever. Of course you wouldn't know that because you told us that you have never used the product....not even once. Funny how you claim to "know" the results to be expected of a product that you have never even used. Yet you continue to completely disregard the PROVEN RESULTS of those who have actually used the product. How scientific is that???? Your position and understanding of science seems awfully misguided to me. Finally, why don't you get off of your high horse and stop preaching to my deaf ears. Once and for all..........put your DETAILED alternative method(s) in writing for the benefits of others who are having problems rooting their cuttings. Don't do this for me...as I certainly don't need your help or advice for growing my figs. Give fellow forum members (not me) that "chainsaw" method that you claim to have. Give others (not me) the benefit of your alternative method(s). Give others (not me) the benefit of your practical experience. Put it "IN WRITING" so there will be no confusion nor any questions about the details. However, I am again asking that you do allow me to post my information in peace on this forum. Fig Horticulture ain't NO SCIENCE. I have a very strong and valid alternate viewpoint than yours. Again, I don't care if what I post is in disagreement with any of your past postings, experience, beliefs, or pet theories....get over it...we agree to disagree. Let others decide what is relevant to them. How 'bout DEM figs!!! Well they do just fine right here in South Louisiana. I wish the same for everyone. Dan |
Gee, Dan - every time I disagree with you and point to the myriad holes in your theories, all we get is another diatribe like immediately above. You spent months crying about a passing comment and using it as an excuse to continually attack me and anything I say, and now you're wanting to be left in peace to post erroneous information. I wasn't talking about heating pads, I was directly challenging your theories about condensation, dew points, moisture needed for mold to grow ........ If you're the expert you claim to be, you should be able to run circles around misguided me, but nothing is forthcoming. It takes a lot less effort to clear the air by addressing what you said than it does to try to belittle me, and the forum would appreciate it much more. "Barking"? Just exactly what IS "barking", Dan? I've never heard that term before. You say assuredly that "the white stuff" is "barking". Where did that term come from? Where can I read more about it? Could it be something you just made up? Your posts are full of things like this, and they lead a lot of impressionable people to believe things that are not so. I've said many times that I'm perfectly capable of having a civil discussion based on facts and science, but you've never taken that approach - you'd rather no one upset your applecart with facts, so you're free to post anything you please - no matter how unsupportable it is. You've never had a discussion with me that wasn't 95% bluster and insults. You were going to tell us why UPM was soo different than other potting soils - remember? Also tell us how you square the idea that you can tout cleanliness and sterility above (a good thing) yet advocate a rooting medium that is guaranteed to be full of several species of fungi that are KNOWN to cause rooting problems? Actually, the solution is to simply let me voice and support an opinion in peace, which is all I'm doing/have ever done, or support your ideas in a civil manner. Reread my posts and you'll see clearly that I didn't get personal or attack you. I remained focused on the topic. Your attacking me every time I disagree with one of your theories does nothing for your credibility. Al |
Aww geez--I'm beginning to think that figs survive IN SPITE OF US MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE! ROTF!!! noss |
Man I like Dan and the method he promotes which makes me feel more than a little conflicted about what I am about to post. People have been rooting fig cuttings very successfully for a couple thousand years. Long before Dan's method and long before zip-loc bags. Don's method is a good method but not the only one. I think it's the most used by forum members because he so vigorously and enthusiastically promotes his method to the exclusion of all other tried and true methods. The truth is figs root very easily using many different methods. Dan's method is one of the better ones but there are other simpler methods that produce similar results. Not every one has the same results when trying the same method. When it comes to Dan's method I think this has to do the very things Al speaks of. Humidity, Condensation, Mold Spores, Unstable Environment. If Dan's method works for you and you don't have mold issues then great. If you try it and it does not work for you and or you have mold issues its probably because of the things Al has mentioned. Putting cuttings in an enclosed environment has its own set of rules that must be strictly adhered to in order to prevent mold and dehydration and maintain oxygen levels. Figs root so easily though that about the only thing a cutting needs is soil that drains well. If let to nature in most environments cuttings will root without any grower intervention. Place a dormant cutting horizontally 3" deep in the soil and in all likelihood you will have a tree growing there come Spring. Or plant the cutting vertically in the ground with 1 ˝-2" above ground and come Spring you will more than likely have a tree growing there. Baggies and Cups allow you to see it as it's happening but it will more than likely happen whether you see it happening or not. I know it feels good to think you are doing something the right or the best way. But the truth is figs root easily and there are lots of good ways and no way is the best or works for everyone. Dan's way tries to control the environment. If your soil is clay or some other medium that does not drain well and you don't have a planter or raised bed to start cuttings in Dan's method is a good alternative. If your soil is not crap nature will take care of rooting fig cuttings just fine. If your environment is exceptionally dry you may want to lightly water the area where the cutting are once every 1-2 weeks during their 1st winter. Other than that they should root without any other intervention. This is not rocket science; this is not some extremely hard to root plant that requires lots of hard work or some specialized skill. These are fig cuttings. |
- Posted by recoil_rob 6 (My Page) on Sun, Jun 13, 10 at 15:23
Well, I finally gave up and took them out of the bags yesterday and put them in cups with a 60/40 perlite/vermiculite mixture, on a rack, in a plastic box. Some sprouted mold again overnight but I'm going to see if any survive. |
Best of luck with your cuttings Rob. Mold tends to spread though in an enclosed environment. You may want to separate the cuttings that don't have mold from the ones that do. |
- Posted by recoil_rob 6 (My Page) on Sun, Jun 13, 10 at 16:09
Thanks, will do. |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Sat, Jun 19, 10 at 9:59
Al, "why don't you get off of your high horse and stop preaching to my deaf ears. Once and for all..........put your DETAILED alternative method(s) in writing for the benefits of others who are having problems rooting their cuttings. Don't do this for me...as I certainly don't need your help or advice for growing my figs. Give fellow forum members (not me) that "chainsaw" method that you claim to have. Give others (not me) the benefit of your alternative method(s). Give others (not me) the benefit of your practical experience. Put it "IN WRITING" so there will be no confusion nor any questions about the details." If Dan is so misguided and erroneous.....why don't you post that alternative "foolproof" method of yours??? You know, the rooting method that fig newbies should be using.......the one that will completely prevent the formation of mold.......the one the original poster COULD have used in order to get a better result!! thisisme, There are many ways to propagate figs and one should choose whatever methods meets with their particular needs. Contrary to AL's beliefs.......fig horticulture IS NOT A SCIENCE but simply an art and craft. The Improved Baggie Method is but one method of fig propagation. It is a very good method for the fig hobbyist. It is documented with sufficient written detail that anyone can use it with a good success rate.......near 100% success is easy to attain if the details are followed. One big advantage, is that it can be used at any time of the year for rooting figs. It is very simple and no special equipment is needed. Heating pads are discouraged because they can more do more damage (mold and rot) to cuttings than they produce. Some people get bent out of shape when this FACT is mentioned.....simply because they are advocates of their use. I have even given specific details in the method that WILL PREVENT ANY TRANSPLANT shock when moving new plants to their final potting..........that very simple technique works great and significantly increases one's rooting success rate. Funny how Al wants to continue to criticise a method with a near 100% success rate and a method that he admitted he has never even used........ Dan |
Dan what you said is so true. The two older methods I mentioned should only be initiated during the Fall/Winter months. While your improved baggy method can be used year round. I can definitely see the advantage in that. |
Gee Dan - Dredge up another post that was sinking into oblivion to start another row .... It was me who introduced the baggie method to the forum a number of years ago - so you can be pretty sure I've used it and know more than enough about it to be able to say it is a middling method at best. Changing the medium I originally suggested from perlite or Turface (something unlikely to harbor the dozens of fungi that inhibit rooting and are present in potting soils) to common potting soil is assuredly nothing I would call an improvement, but it's not the first time you've suggested something potentially and practically counter-productive. You've staked a lot on your idea that QUOTE: "... fig horticulture IS NOT A SCIENCE but simply an art and craft." Most of us know differently. Wiki: Horticulture is the industry and science of plant cultivation including the process of preparing soil for the planting of seeds, tubers, or cuttings. Merriam Webster: the science and art of growing fruits .... You can't just pull statements out of the air and use them as fact, as you so regularly do - just because it suits your needs at the moment. I guess it's only science for all plants but figs. Whoda thought it? You never reply to anything I call you on with an explanation or by using science other than what you've made up. Instead, you tell us what you think someone else might think, then you turn to insults and belittlement. FWIW - I'm not an advocate of heating pads unless they are used to bring the rooting medium up to a favorable temperature. There is considerable advantage in having the rooting medium warmer than air temperatures up to about 70* medium temperatures. You could easily have let this thread settle & drop off the board, but you're so insecure you can't imagine not having the last word, and chose instead to mount another personal attack. Don't cry and kick your feet because I have different opinions from yours - support your theories with something convincing and let it go. You were terribly off base about the humidity/condensation, mold, even temperatures, and more. Oh - and did you happen to remember where you learned about all that 'barking'. I think you were going to link us to something where we could all learn more about it. I pointed these things out using science and what I've learned from my own experience, but there is no response again, other than your standard stuff. Al |
- Posted by organic_aer1 NJ 6 (email@example.com) on Sat, Jun 19, 10 at 21:22
Hi Al Does this still work? Posted by tapla z5b-6a MI (My Page) on Fri, Jan 2, 09 at 22:47 This all reminds me of a story about a good friend I had awhile back - called hisself Joe Pye. Now Joe was kind of a stubborn sort, but at least sometimes he'd listen ...... if you caught him on a good day. Well lemme git back to my story ..... ol' Joe had a peculiar habit. See every mornin he'd commence to banging his head against the wall for 15 minutes or so before he went to work. When I'd ask him, "Why o' why do you do that, ol' Joe?" His answer would always be, "It's what works best for me - wakes me up inna mornin." Well by God, through the very power of multiple suggestion, ol' Joe starts in to huggin & kissin on his wife inna mornin before work instead of pursuin his other long time habit. Stubborn as he was, Joe recognized right away he was better off - he just lacked the benifit of experience to see it at first. His wife was quite pleased with the change as well. Ol' Joe never ever did go back to bangin his head on the wall neither. There's a moral to this here yarn: If yer real happy with how things is goin, please maintain the status quo; but at least allow it may be possible there just might be a better way .... if you'll at least consider it. Just as even a blind pig occasionally finds an acorn, even a fool like me will occasionally stumble on a good suggestion. Hope it brought a smile. ;o) Al |
Lol - Actually, that was sort of the lead-in for a piece I wrote about the folly in using "Well it works for me" to try to cement a point in a debate, and expecting that it should be some sort of clarion call to the masses to blindly follow suit. Al |
It's not about the method you lay claim to. It's about the dozens of inconsistencies you seem to conveniently forget about when you make your suppositions, but never seem to have an answer for, and for all the creativity you show in inventing new science to fit your way of thinking. When I point out that potting soil is not the best choice for a rooting medium, you respond that it's 'Special' potting soil and it works better than anything else. I point to the folly in that and back it up with facts and science. I point to the fact that yes, you CAN get it to work most of the time, but that is because figs are about bulletproof and not because of the method. When I point to the fact that nutrients in the rooting medium inhibit water absorption and cannot be used until root primordia are formed (btw - you keep referring to root primordia as 'initials') you reply with something like "My research has shown .....". That either means what's long been considered settled science or "your research" is wrong. Based on track record, I'm sticking with settled science. Lots of people have considerable difficulty rooting in bags. That means that it doesn't work all that well or is over-complicated. Just because you CLAIM 100% success, doesn't mean that we should EXPECT 100% success (witness the number of problems arising when rooting in bags). You make absolute CLAIMS all the time ..... 'this will NEVER happen .... that will NEVER happen .... I absolutely guarantee .... 100% success....'. This is part of the reason you so frequently need to back-pedal. Rooting in rigid containers with some sort of tenting to keep humidity high is a much better choice and offers far fewer problems. Contrary to your claims, bottom heat that limits soil temperatures to under 70* is also very helpful (check any text on propagation). When I point to how wrong you were in your statements about humidity, dew points, mold, condensation, even temperatures ...... and laid out the specific science as to WHY those things were so wrong, the silence is deafening, but the bluster loud as ever. I didn't point these things out because I want or need you to be wrong .... I pointed them out because you have a lot of people thinking they need to jump through a lot of bogus hoops in order to get their cuttings to root. You don't want any of this to be about science because you illustrate over and over that you don't understand plant physiology or the related sciences. You identify and talk about BARKING in an authoritative tone, yet you can't tell us what it is, where it comes from, where we can learn more about it - you literally invent a term and start treating whatever you say about it as though it's factual and valid - but you don't even know what it is. I don't operate that way, Dan. You've never been able to invalidate a single thing I've ever offered on this forum because I keep my ducks in a row and don't venture into areas I know nothing about. I operate WITHIN the limits of my knowledge, not beyond those limits, because I don't need my ego stroked and I don't need to be noticed. I get enough notice and thanks for my efforts on behalf of others, as well as for the information I supply, that I don't need to look for more attention. In fact, because my email is usually overflowing with plant/gardening questions, a little LESS attention would be welcome. Al |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Sun, Jun 20, 10 at 13:00
Al, you're just too funny. Keep reading/re-reading my posts and eventually you will get it......... I can't help but notice.....again you still have not posted your foolproof method that will correct most of my "misinformation". No....you keep avoiding putting actual "written words" where you mouth & beliefs are and keep throwing up those silly Straw Man arguments to avoid the Big Gorilla in the room.......too funny indeed. Post your rooting method(s) and prove me wrong. Surely you could do that for our fellow forum members.........what do you have to lose?????? Dan |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Sun, Jun 20, 10 at 13:16
Well I'm off to get me some boiled shrimp before they become completely unavailable in my area due to the BP oil disaster. I will not open this thread again for another week.....hopefully by that time Al will have chosen to finally release some detailed and specific rooting information that will be helpful to the original poster and to all other forum members (not for me.....because I sure don't need his information). Peace and happy figgin' to ALL....... Dan |
I'm happy you're amused. So was Nero while Rome burned. My assertions are not straw man arguments. They go directly to the heart of the multiple directives you've issued that are supposed to guarantee 100% success for all. By the number of problems associated with the method, we can clearly see it has issues. I've pointed out exactly why much of what you want so badly for us all to believe is fallacious. You have no answers other than defamation. So be it. Your continued inaction speaks louder than your words. I've said before that it's not necessary for me to report on any of the several methods I use to propagate cuttings to see the potential problems in any particular method, or to recognize when someone is putting forth inaccurate information that cannot be backed. You seem to attach an inordinate amount of importance to my discussing OTHER propagation methods. You also seem to feel that anything I say cannot be valid unless I appropriate a propagation method and name it as my own. Some strange reasoning, that is. Instead of addressing the questions I raised, you skip and obfuscate. If you really wanted the debate you claim to want, you'd wade into the thick of it. You've always gleefully seized on any small point you've felt you could contort to your advantage, continually putting words in my mouth and then arguing against what you say I said (that's the REAL straw man, Dan, your favored tactic); so if you felt you could hang, you'd be addressing the real issues as loudly as you do when you paint me black. ;o) I'm weary of all this. You can come back and have the last word you always insist upon ..... unless you do a turn-around and decide to explain your version of the science re the several things I mentioned (UPM soil, humidity, dew points, mold, condensation, even temperatures, 'barking') - but I won't hold my breath. Al |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Mon, Jun 21, 10 at 9:19
Al, You forgot to mention that fertilizer nutrient ratio theory of yours that no University Ag Department in the South has apparently bought into. Are all of those thousands of southern horticulturist just too dumb to understand what constitutes an appropriate fertilizer for their trees??? FYI.....they all seem to prefer a 10-10-10 fertilizer (I can back up that statement with links if desired). I wonder why that is??? Do you have any explanation why they do not buy into your fertilizer Nutrient Ratio Theory???? I will be so bold as to foster an answer as it fits within this thread. Maybe it is because of what I've said repeatedly.....even in this thread. The thing that you have a hard time accepting.....FIG HORTICULTURE IS NOT A SCIENCE. There are many EQUALLY VALID WAYS to grow and to propagate figs. Your way is not the only way......... Again, why don't you get off of your high horse and give the original poster in this thread a "written" procedure that he could have used to propagate his fig cuttings and avoid all of the supposed "misinformation" and "errors" of my suggestions???? Give him the benefit of your experience with another "detailed" rooting method......one that in your opinion would be less problematic. I've dealt with many many theoretical, intellectual, and ACADEMIA types in my former career and have come to understand some of their ways. I'll be so bold as to tell you why I believe you WILL NEVER POST on this forum your theoretical foolproof fig rooting method. It is because you've got nothing better to offer. You prefer to just bloviate, pontificate, and play the role of the all-knowing Monday morning quarter-backer. You are just too funny and predictable Al. Are you perhaps AFRAID to put into a "written form" what you BELIEVE to be the least problematic fig rooting procedure for the newbie fig hobbyist to utilize??? Too funny indeed. I hope that you prove me wrong. Lord knows I've given you similar opportunities to do so in many other threads. Satellite Head could tell us how may times I've asked you to STEP UP TO THE PLATE and give our fellow forum members (not me)your procedure(s). I have already demonstrated, that I have no such fear. Anyone following the very simple procedures that I have written should get very reliable results. The fact remains that you, Al, cannot say the same. Because your procedure(s) remain just "hypothetical" and have not made in into a complete written form on this forum......at least I have never seen it. And that, Al, is the BIG GORILLA that is in this room. The big gorilla that you continue to avoid with your continued Straw Man arguments. Please put your alternative method(s) in writing.......that is if you really have one....otherwise stop bloviating and playing the role of a Monday Morning Quarterback. I am once again asking you to stop with your CAMPAIGN of stamping on my posts and always seeking to find some fault with whatever I post. I hope that one day you will realize that is perfectly OK to accept the FACT that FIG HORTICULTURE is not a science. So that, you will allow others to post their information in peace even if it completely disagrees with your strong beliefs and past postings. I will gladly let you have the last word ......if it is the words of your fig rooting procedure(s). I will not make any comments about your procedure(s). Please prove once and for all to everyone on this forum just how "erroneous" and "misguided" Dan really is..... Seems like that should be a very easy task for you to do given the number of times that you have tried to correct me.......to no avail, I might add. Dan |
To the forum: First. let's be clear that I never claimed to have a 100% foolproof method of propagating figs. I'm not foolish enough to make such a claim. I mentioned once that I would write something about propagating figs - you can see what Dan has twisted those words into. He's convinced himself that I said I have a foolproof method. Each time he says something, he exaggerates a little more, then he sets about destroying the straw man he built. This apparently makes him feel better. I'll let you guys decide if what I say is theoretical or if I'm intellectualizing or if I even know what I'm talking about - whether or not I have a solid grasp of the physiology of woody plants. I don't have to keep reminding you of my good points or bad points - they're there for you to see, and I don't need to solicit a pat on the back - I just want to see that you guys don't go through a lot of unnecessary effort because one person wants badly for you to believe he's reinvented the wheel. I've always been very specific about why I think all this hoopla about rooting in bags is unnecessary. I laid out the science about why all these superfluous instructions are totally unnecessary. The science AND the reasoning in what I said goes unchallenged - even by Dan. You can jump through the hoops and believe all the hype if you wish, but it won't make a difference. I was invited to show you the errors and to prove how misguided all these extra steps are. I've already laid out the science that illustrate the errors and carefully explained why these theories that require the rewriting of science in the areas of humidity/condensation, mold, even temperatures, UPM soil (or any potting soil) and more are simply wrong. No answer - no argument. The misguided part (not my word) comes to play when even in the face of the fact that the assertions are wrong, he still wants you to treat them as though they are not and jump through the hoops. I've said before that rooting figs is about as easy as rooting woody material gets. Maybe Salix (willow) is easier, but not by much. The baggie method works marginally well - no argument there. No researcher or scientifically minded person would ever guarantee 100% success "if you follow my directions"; there is too much room for unforseens; and I see Dan has softened his stance now, to: "Anyone following the very simple procedures that I have written should get very reliable results", which is getting much closer to the truth. You can follow procedures that leave you a perfectly clean cutting, and undo all your efforts the second you stick that cutting in your UPM, or other potting soil, exposing them to a laundry list of pathogens in the soil. I'm not unreasonable & I'm not saying the baggie method doesn't work, but lots of people have problems with it, indicating it's no where near 100% effective, no matter what claims might be made. It's pretty convenient to SAY "my method is 100% successful", and then point at you and say "you didn't follow one of my directives" when you fail. I was the one that introduced the forum to the baggie method years ago. If I had initially advised you to use potting soil and had seen that you were having troubles, I would never blame you w/o a close look at the methodology. When you have fungal issues, the SANE thing to do is try to minimize the source of the infection - NOT hold fast to the idea that somehow a magic initial cleaning would somehow forever ward off the evil fungi. THAT, is misguided. The baggie method is kind of fun for those that get a kick out of watching their cuttings root and grow - mainly the folks new to propagating, which is why I suggested it long ago. It does come with the additional problems associated with rooting in enclosed spaces. While it works ok, you'll have fewer fungal issues if you root in opaque cups and loosely tent your cutting set-up so humidity levels are high, - in that 80-90% range. When you're rooting in cool temperatures, bottom heat is very helpful at promoting callus growth and at promoting rooting, as long as media temperatures don't rise much above 70*. Cool air temps helps suppress bud growth until roots can establish the vascular connection required to supply emerging foliage. This is ALL very basic propagation technique. Anyone who thinks something as simple as this is pontification or intellectualizing would be served better to do more listening and less lecturing. If Rob had tried rooting as I described, it's unlikely he would have run into the fungal issues he ran into. I'm not admonishing you, Rob - only making an observation. This isn't about good and bad methods of propagating figs; and I'm not trying to talk anyone out of trying to root their cuttings in bags. Methods are what they are - they have good points and bad points. The fact is there was a lot of bad science used to justify having you guys follow a number of bogus procedures for one method. There is no need for me to come up with an alternate method or a better method before I can share the information you need to decide for yourselves. I pointed to the bad science and showed you why it was bad. I didn't just say it's bad in the same manner Dan claims it's valid and then refuses to comment because he can't defend it. By all means, if you have faith in rooting in bags, go ahead and use that method, but please don't put a lot of stock in all the extra hype presented regarding humidity/condensation, mold, even temperatures, UPM potting soil (or any potting soil) because you're being mislead, and it's a shame. Al |
- Posted by loslunasfarms 7, New Mexico (My Page) on Tue, Jun 22, 10 at 11:19
Recoil, I have had this happen before. Here is what you do: 1. Use a well draining quality potting soil (my fav is UPM) with 50% perlite. Water as needed to keep the soil from drying out, 2. Bury them with the aforementioned soil with cutting point up or horizontally. Point being, COVER THE WHOLE CUTTING. Keep pot out of full sun. Filtered sun like under a tree works the best otherwise you have reaclimate the rooted cuttings to full sun. 3. You may loose a few, but you should have some root. It works every time for me. |
- Posted by recoil_rob 6 (My Page) on Tue, Jun 22, 10 at 11:29
Al, I'm curious as to why the cups should be opaque? The clear ones allow observation of the root growth, why opaque? FWIW out of the 60 or so cuttings I bagged, 20 made it to cups with some initials and so far 3 have leafed. |
Etiolation is the total exclusion of light from plant parts. Most propagation manuals mention the 4 functions of the rooting medium as providing a disease-free environment to hold the cutting in place, providing moisture for the cutting, permit gas exchange for the cutting (especially at the base) and to create a dark or opaque environment by reducing light penetration to the cutting base. There are anatomical and physiological changes that occur in etiolated tissues that enhance rooting. You'll find a greater concentration of (energy) storage cells in etiolated tissues, but more importantly, the exclusion of light greatly enhances tissues sensitivity to the growth hormone auxin, which is a key player in root formation and ramification (branching). Finally, a dark environment also reduces lignin formation, allowing more (phenolic) metabolites to be translocated, enhancing rooting ability. Lignin is the bio-compound that makes roots and other plant parts stiff & woody. The brown root tips you sometimes observe in clear cups and bags are the result of premature lignification due to photo exposure. It's more normal for [hydraulic] transport roots near the base of the plant to lignify first. I have never tried this with figs, but I have actually helped others propagate very difficult-to-root plants by growing them in total darkness for up to a week before taking cuttings because of the positive effects etiolation has on rooting. Another experiment you might play with is 'banding' your cuttings before you take them. Wrap Velcro or black electrical tape (sticky side out) around your branches just above where you'll be taking your cuttings at least 1-2 weeks before you take them. Root initials (not primordia, which you can SEE) will already be forming by the time you take your cuttings & the rooting process will be accelerated. Since rooting cuttings is a race to establish a vascular connection between roots and shoots before fungi destroy the intermediate tissues, you should be able to add to your success rate by speeding the process. Play with it & see what you find. I hope that covered your question. Good luck. Al |
- Posted by loslunasfarms 7, New Mexico (My Page) on Tue, Jun 22, 10 at 15:51
Al, Does Etiolation also occur in dormant cuttings? My cuttings scream with growth when rooting from out of a dark cool setting. |
Yes. I've mentioned before that I often take several dormant cuttings of the same length after leaves fall, bundle them together so they're oriented with the same polarity, and bury them directly in the ground with the proximal end up (2-3" below the soil) and the distal end down. Callus forms over the wounds and the warmer soil toward the surface in spring gets roots ready to take off, while the cool temperatures deeper in the soil helps to suppress bud (shoot) movement. When I see trees in the landscape (for me it's mulberry - a close relative of the fig) just starting to push the spring flush, I unearth the cuttings & pot them or just stick them in the gardens or beds where they root, usually w/o fail, though there is the occasional cutting that croaks for whatever reason. Mother Nature does 99% of the work, and there is no need to babysit or worry over them all winter. I propagate a wide variety of hardwood material in this manner. If you try it - make sure you remember WHERE you buried them because you need to dig & turn them to get the polarity right. Al |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Wed, Jun 30, 10 at 20:45
Checking in on this thread after 9 days.........still no rooting specifics from AL. As I've stated to him in an earlier post to this thread: "I'll be so bold as to tell you why I believe you WILL NEVER POST on this forum your theoretical foolproof fig rooting method. It is because you've got nothing better to offer. You prefer to just bloviate, pontificate, and play the role of the all-knowing Monday morning quarter-backer. You are just too funny and predictable Al." End of this saga....that is until Al again feels a need to stamp on yet another of my posts. Dan |
Grow up, Dan. Al |
- Posted by danab_z9_la 9 (My Page) on Wed, Jun 30, 10 at 23:25
Lighten up, Al. Dan |
- Posted by penandpike (My Page) on Wed, Dec 29, 10 at 0:13
I think it's over :-) |
I would like to know more about "barking". I see it on my cuttings...in the bag. Anyone? |
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Arizona State Sun Devils
ASU's Sutton, UA's Carey named CBS All-Americans
For Arizona State defensive tackle Will Sutton and Arizona running back Ka'Deem Carey, the accolades just keep on coming.
The two stars were named CBSSports.com first team All-Americans Monday after their dominant seasons.
Carey finished second in the nation with 1,757 yards rushing and was the focal point of a Wildcats offense that averaged 521.83 yards per game.
The sophomore back broke onto the national scene when he ran for a Pac-12 record 366 yards and tallied five touchdowns against Colorado.
Sutton earned the nod after already receiving the same honor from the AFCA and being named the Pat Tillman Pac-12 Defensive Player of the Year.
He ranked fifth nationally with 1.82 tackles for loss per game and was 16th in the nation in sacks with 10.5.
Carey and the Wildcats are headed to the New Mexico Bowl to face Nevada on Dec. 15, while Sutton and the Sun Devils will square off with Navy on December 29 in the Kraft Fight Hunger Bowl.
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Sun Devils Audio
- Ray Anderson- ASU athletic directorRay Anderson is excited to hear the compliments coming from Bill Belichick.
- Mike Bercovici- ASU quarterbackMike Bercovici was crowned the MVP of Super Bowl media day.
- Herb Sendek, head coach ASU basketballDoug & Wolf talk ASU basketball with head coach Herb Sendek.
- Ray Anderson- ASU athletic directorRay Anderson is happy to be at ASU as the NFL continues to take a public relations hit.
- Herb Sendek, head coach ASU basketballCoach Sendek talks about ASU's big win over Colorado.

subset: commoncrawl


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He also describes a road to recovery. Not everyone will agree with everything in the book, but it is clearly an honest and heartfelt contribution to vital debates. It has been receiving terrific reviews from an interesting variety of people. You can see those, a summary, Chapter One, and links for buying the book here. If you want to buy the book from Amazon, you can do so here, or directly from the publisher here.
If you have time, and generally approve of Jeremy's project, you could help in a number of ways, including use of social media or perhaps writing a review on Amazon, where skeptics well versed in unfair tactics will surely target the book if it enjoys any success.
Tags: Energy Policy
Coal | Economics | Natural Gas | Oil | Renewable Energy Policy
A new detailed analysis has been published on the intermittency of renewables, "Household Solar Photovoltaics: Supplier of Marginal Abatement, or Primary Source of Low-Emission Power?"
Here are some observations about this article:
Tags: household solar, intermittency, evs
Net Energy | Renewable Energy Policy | Storage | Transportation
As Washington continues to deliberate over the fiscal cliff and the much-hyped notion that the US government is sufficiently functional to avert fiscal disaster, America's attention is being diverted from a much more profound cliff-hanger looming on the horizon.
The USA, Saudi Arabia and Russia are competing to see which country can "produce" the most oil. That translates into racing to see which country will reach the bottom of the barrel first. In their frantic race to the bottom, these countries are creating havoc on the ground -- destroying aquifers, watersheds, productive land, forests -- and on the high seas -- even to the point of attempting to drill in the Arctic Ocean where extreme conditions will thwart human arrogance.
Reports of production increases can be seen as just more warnings that the race to the finish is accelerating. Sadly those fossil fuelish players have little to show for a Plan B.
Reports of profits can be seen as thieves bragging about who got away with the biggest heist. Oil only costs what it takes to steal it from our children's children's children. The notion that "they will come up with something to replace oil" is thoughtless and irresponsible. Tell those guys to be careful: they might stub their toes trying to kick the can down the road that far. The physical cliff may be closer than they think.
In the decades to come, the fiscal cliff of December 31, 2012 will be remembered as a picnic when it is contrasted to the fall from glory which these great nations will experience as they slide down the physical cliff of rapidly depleting oil / gas / coal.
Hubbert | Intergenerational Equity | Oil
There is no doubt that warming is occurring but I am unclear that we understand that there is any clear correlation between warming and a bad storm although I understand the arguments for it. I just don't think it is scientific. I hear a hard edge in those who stridently assure us that big storms like Sandy are related to climate change.
I hear a hard edge in those who stridently assure us that big storms like Sandy are related to climate change.
If you believe it, fine. But acknowledge that is a belief and not a fact.
There are ways to get to the heart of the matter.
you may be right but you don't know.
Coal | Intergenerational Equity | Renewable Energy Policy | Solarevolution
Windmills Overload East Europe's Grid, Risking Blackout
Germany is dumping electricity on its unwilling neighbors and by wintertime the feud should come to a head. Central and Eastern European countries are moving to disconnect their power lines from Germany's during the windiest days. That's when they get flooded with energy, echoing struggles seen from China to Texas over accommodating the world's 200,000 windmills. Renewable energy around the world is causing problems because unlike oil it can't be stored, so when generated it must be consumed or risk causing a grid collapse. At times, the glut can be so great that utilities pay consumers to take the power and get rid of it.
Central and Eastern European countries are moving to disconnect their power lines from Germany's during the windiest days. That's when they get flooded with energy, echoing struggles seen from China to Texas over accommodating the world's 200,000 windmills.
Renewable energy around the world is causing problems because unlike oil it can't be stored, so when generated it must be consumed or risk causing a grid collapse. At times, the glut can be so great that utilities pay consumers to take the power and get rid of it.
Oh that we might have Germany's problem :: too much electricity.
An acquaintance of mine has been developing an electricity storage technology which can scale and has a low environmental footprint. I called him last month to find out how things are going.
I had thought he was going to tell me about progress on a megawatt-hour prototype. No, he's talking to, you guessed it, the Germans, and they're asking him to design for them a Gigawatt-hour system. Meanwhile, his American prospects haven't materialized.
The Germans will meet the renewable energy challenge. They will be selling American storage technology to electricity grid operators around the world. (Renewables aren't the only context for grid-scale storage.)
Meanwhile the dominant energy storage technology comes straight from the stone age: digging up black rocks and burning them. But how long will this last? Hmmm...
Tags: energy storage, usa energetically bankrupt
Renewable Energy Policy | Coal | Storage
Equity | Intergenerational Equity | Net Energy | Oil
Unprecedented economic expansion over the past century has been powered by abundant and relatively inexpensive oil and other fossil fuels. How would the U.S. and global economy respond to an oil supply crisis and the prospect of diminishing oil supplies? What would economic "growth" and "development" look like in a future with less oil?
I think this might be the time for me to highlight the theme of equity (in particular, international- and inter-generational equity). That statement, "... in a future with less oil," is hinting in the direction of "oil continues to be treated as a fuel." Hmmm. If there is no awareness of the value of oil, not for burning up one-time-only, but as a substance for long term use by our progeny, what right do we have to tie up people's time talking about an economy? What is an economy without leaving behind some resources for a next generation to take over? Where do we weave this fundamental into the peak oil story? I for one am coming to loath the continuing using the term "fossil fuels." We are burning stones to get around?! How do you explain that to your grandchildren? We are so shortsighted to consume these resources that belong to their future. I'm probably going to drive to town soon, and jump in an airplane before the year is up. Shame on me. The point though is to put our heads together, to find common ground, so that collectively, we can put a new spin on oil, to begin to treat it as a valuable resource, too precious to burn. Might that perspective serve well to transform our efforts into a more noble cause?
Today we look back in disgust at whaling for lamp oil. How primitive to kill those magnificent sentient leviathans just to light up a room. What will the beyond-oil people of the future think of us?!
Equity | Intergenerational Equity | Net Energy | Oil | Renewable Energy Policy
Renewable Energy Policy | Transportation
Germany's solar power plants produced a record 22 gigawatts of energy on Friday, equivalent to the output of 20 nuclear plants. The country is already a world-leader in solar power and hopes to be free of nuclear energy by 2022. The director of the Institute of the Renewable Energy Industry (IWR) in Muenster, northeast Germany, said the solar power delivered to the national grid on Saturday met 50 per cent of the nation's energy quota.
The director of the Institute of the Renewable Energy Industry (IWR) in Muenster, northeast Germany, said the solar power delivered to the national grid on Saturday met 50 per cent of the nation's energy quota.
I am surprised that so little attention has been given to Russia, the progenitor of Germany's renewable energy policy.
I hired a German engineering intern in the summer of 1996. He had grown up in East Germany, and in his early teens the Berlin Wall fell. He was old enough at the time to have a very clear impression of Soviet incompetence and malevolence.
To this day Europe's largest imports of fossil fuels come from Russia. So it was no surprise to me that the German Bundestag determined to take their energy policy into their own hands over 10 years ago. You think the sun and the wind are capricious? What if a certain Mr. Putin gets up on the wrong side of bed tomorrow morning?
We are at a turning point. Thanks to the intelligence and courage of King Hubbert, Dennis Meadows, Colin Campbell, Jean Laherrere and others, humanity now understands that fossil fuels and nuclear power are finite. Every penny spent on expanding their use is plainly "good money after bad." Hunting down new "sources" of oil in the arctic or yellowcake in the outback is just that: hunting and gathering in the age of agriculture.
Once again humanity must learn to harvest energy rather than exhaust a patch of land and then move on.
So you say solar power (sun/wind/hydro/...) is intermittent. No argument. There are two ways to deal with that: wring your hands or roll up your sleeves.
Thankfully the Germans have set an example for the rest of us by rolling up their sleeves.
"... fossil fuels are qualitatively superior on the matrix categories..."
One day, the notion of burning fuels to move things will seem as primitive as cooking a meal in Manhattan at a campfire on the floor in the kitchen. Yes, fossil fuels are compact, but not as compact as electricity delivered by wire. Fuels are explosive too, whether fossil or bio, and it is absurd to have these dangerous substances held in conveyances being hurdled along at highway speed. Now please don't be confused; I'm not advocating EVs with batteries – yet another primitive notion for the urban landscape.
Teams around the world are designing transportation systems based on solar energy, with PV panels directly overhead to meet 100% of the systems' energy demand (on average, net-metered). Teams are designing these systems to place small, on-demand vehicles above the street, where they won't run into people, pets or deer. This is not a pipe dream.
"... and that transportation without fossil fuels will be hard..."
Maybe that's true in the USA, but not in Europe. Really, how hard can it get?! When was the last time you looked at a freeway cloverleaf? That's what's hard: accommodating a free-wheelin' half-drunk cowboy in a 3-ton behemoth with a wide margin for error – 12' per lane?! – plus a shoulder or barricade. Tons of steel and concrete can be eliminated by greatly streamlining the urban transit system using this emerging technology, with 200 kg podcars on switched computerized networks above the streets. One day we will be jackhammering the streets to turn them into parks where kids can play again, in their village, without getting run over by the above-mentioned cowboy or a choo-choo train cleaving the community in half.
We can do better. Come on, it's time to roll up our sleeves and stop kicking the can down the road for our children's children to figure out what to do. It is obvious: the age of fossil fuels is moribund, and it's time we stopped killing over a million people a year (globally in traffic) with a transport system design that's completely out of step with peak oil realities – and the reality of 21st century technology that is 10X better in so many dimensions: 10X less weight, 10X less energy, 10X greater safety.
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Intergenerational Equity | Renewable Energy Policy | Transportation
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Developer: Adam Slater |
Course: ECE 430: Electromagnetic Field Theory Vector is a program for the visualization of electric fields in 3D using a CAVE- or Visbox-like virtual reality environment. Vector is programmed using openGL with GLU extensions, SDL, and BOXlib. Vector was designed for use in a classroom setting to elucidate concepts of 3-dimensional electric fields and potential in conjunction with classroom lectures. |
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The Mortgage Loan Market Controls the Real Estate Market
One of the things I keep telling folks about the real estate market, whatever area you live in, is that it is controlled by the loan market. If you want to understand where real estate in general is headed, look at the loan market and the financial markets that generate them.
When I wrote this, the loan markets were in terminal panic mode. The lenders were looking for any restrictions they could slap on around the edges to mollify investors, and investors were shying away from any loan that had any element of risk. All non-governmentally guaranteed loans for more than 95% of value had disappeared, and the ones above 90% of value were very difficult to find and even more difficult to fund. This meant that VA loans and FHA loans were all that was left above 95% loan to value ratio, and stated income loans were dead, no matter how much sense they made for your situation, as nobody would fund them. Fannie and Freddie drastically curtailed their A minus programs (all but the first level of their expanded approval eliminated, and they don't want to actually fund even those). Outside of government loans, you've pretty much got to be A paper full documentation to get a loan at all.
This eliminates pretty much every type of loan that was a major player in the market when things were hot. It also severely restricts the numbers of new buyer in a position to buy. Since 100% Loan to Value ratio financing had been the almost universal financing vehicle for borrowers for the previous several years, this constricts the ability of prospective buyers to get the loans they need. Comparatively few people have money they could use for a down payment if they wanted to. Not everybody qualifies VA or FHA. VA requires military service, and FHA has policy limits on what they will fund.
Furthermore, all of the other loan programs to get 100% loan financing have gone away, and all of the supplemental programs to extend buyers' ability to qualify have rather sharp income limits, and those income limits are not going up at all. They actually effect San Diego less than most areas, but even here, they constrict the ability of buyers to qualify. Both the mortgage credit certificateand all of the municipal first time buyers programs have income limits that mean people can't make over a certain amount of income - and even if they have no other bills they can't qualify for the loan on property over a certain loan amount, because even if they have no other bills, their debt to income ratio will be too high from just the payment and taxes and insurance on the property. You can't cheat on this - all of these programs require full documentation of income. Above about $420,000, even if they conforming limit goes up, even if the prospective buyers make the maximum amount per year for the program and have no other bills, the people these programs are aimed at won't qualify because the debt to income ratio will be too high.
The moral of this story is simple: If you want to sell your property above a given price, you're not competing for first time buyers. You are competing for people who have sold (or are about to sell) their property for a profit and are now ready to move up. If the prospective buyers don't qualify for the necessary loan based upon debt to income ratio, they can't buy.
Any time you raise the price you want to sell by a certain amount, there are people that no longer qualify to buy your property. You have priced them out, and no matter how much they might want to buy your property, the fact remains that they cannot.
As for buyers making the median family income in San Diego of $72,700 (down thousands of dollars from 2011), their limit on loans is about $270,000. So unless they have a significant down payment, a family making $6000 per month is looking at a condominium. Just a cold hard fact.
There will always be buyers around the edges who are exceptions. People who have saved or inherited a substantial down payment in defiance of demographic trends. But those are the exceptions, and for every one of them, you have a dozen of more unqualified buyers engaged in wishful thinking. In the last year or so, I have spend a lot of time looking for loans unsuccessfully trying to get people into sustainable situations and save their property from foreclosure. At this point, until the lenders and investors calm down from their institutionalized panic, those loan programs aren't going to exist. Even having lots of equity may not help you unless you can afford a hard money loan.
Before you ask me what relevance this has to buying and selling, I'm going to answer: Every time a lending program goes away, there go some buyers who otherwise could have qualified. Right now, there is no stated income. Doesn't bother me much, as 95% or more of my clients have always been full doc, but for those who are used to the opposite ratio, it's the apocalypse. Ditto for sellers and listing agents who don't understand what it takes to qualify, and who price their properties as if the loan market for several years ago was still going gangbusters. When the property sits for months because the people who might buy can't qualify for that big of a loan, that's a problem.
With all this said, the people who do have the cash or the ability to qualify for a loan are in the driver's seat now. You may be getting tired of hearing this from me, but veterans can qualify for more loan than someone without military service for the same income due to the lack of mortgage insurance requirements. People with a large down payment are in an even stronger situation, and people who have both things going for them have an incredible amount of negotiating leverage. When the loan market will approve anyone who can fog a mirror, your competition is everyone who can fog a mirror. When the loan market wants to see guarantees and cold hard cash going into the property in the form of a down payment, your pool of available buyers is much smaller - and prices are lower because of it.
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Your search "russian" resulted in 118 Articles
The Horizon Perfekt: A Right of Passage for Every Lomographer
I've been a Lomographer for over a year before I purchased my Horizon Perfekt. And during that time I had a chance to develop my skills with all the various Lomo cameras but I always kept my eye on the Perfekt. I visited the microsite regularly and noticed that so many of the Lomographers that I looked up to owned their very own Horizon. So on the day my Perfekt arrived, it felt like a right of passage! -
Camera Review of the Week
The Zenit EM camera comes with a great selection of features including a cable release socket, a real time focus and an automatic aperture activation. "dogma":http://beta.lomography.com/homes/dogma wrote a splendid review for this camera and we are pleased to award this week's award to him in exchange. -
The Smena 8M: The Starter's Swiss Army Knife
Born in the 1970's the Lomo Smena 8M was created for the beginning lomographer in mind. It uses 35mm film and is made of fantastic plastic! Made for public consumption back then exported and shared around the world soon after. -
Zenit EM
Zenit - Solid as brick, precision as AK-47. Every lomographer should have on of those classic machines. I own Zenit EM. My brother was using it when he was a kid and now, after 20 years of waiting, my time has come. I could say that was love at first sight. -
Be Lomo - Chaika II
Chaika II was produced by the Belomo factory in Belarus (then in the USSR) between 1967 and 1972. Chaika means "seagull". It has the same camera body as the original, but with several minor changes. -
Be Lomo Chajka II Half-Frame camera
This is a half-frame camera, 28mm (f2.8-16.0) focusing lens. Close focusing to 3 feet. PC contact, cable release connection and tripod socket. Exposure is strictly manual with no built-in meter or exposure guide. The shutter release button is on the front of the camera. It had a nice little film speed reminder on the bottom of the camera, but some people are confused by this and think that the camera has some sort of built-in meter! Despite its proto-typical flaws, it is a well-made camera. -
Lubitel Lover
I was amazed when I first got the lubitel. It was the opposite of digital – everything was slooooooow! I had to take my time. No 'click click click' with this beast. Even just getting to the viewfinder took a lot of time and effort, unwrapping it from the camera body. Focusing was slow too – slow but deadly accurate. Trying to use the viewfinder and the distance scale in tandem works best for me. -
My Lubitel Story: No, It's Not a Rolleiflex
No it's not a Rolleiflex and it's not a Hasselblad I'm holding in my hands. But people sometimes think so when they see me standing there with my Lubitel pointed at a great motive ready to take the picture. "It's a LUBITEL", I tell them and they just look at me sceptically. -
Zenit 11 gallery - Balos, Greece
My favourite camera breaking into in pieces right before my trip to Balos, Greece could have turned into a complete photo-disaster but, lucky me, I ended up giving my Zenit 11 SLR a go. -
Deadstock Tale by grimbyname: Smena Symbol
In the summer of 2006, while doing a bit of mindless web wandering, I discovered the weird and wonderful community of film-addicted lomographers, and wanted to join in. Looking through the homes and shop, while waiting for a Fisheye 2 to arrive, it didn't take me long to discover that I already possessed a bona-fide lomographic Russian deadstock tool, a Symbol bought for me by my father in the early eighties. He was a keen amateur photographer, owning both Zenit and Praktica SLRs, a Zorki 4K rangefinder, all with a variety of lenses, and his own black and white darkroom kit too. For some reason he'd decided to buy a Symbol each for me and my mother, most probably because they were cheap, about £8 if I remember correctly. I already had a Fed 4 (a 'proper' camera with coupled rangefinder and built-in light meter) that my parents had bought me for being a smart lad for passing my 11-plus exam for the grammar school, so the Symbol, UK branded as Cosmic rather than Smena, saw little use, and I don't even know if any pics remain from its early days. Smena means 'Young Generation', which is when I first became acquainted with the Symbol. Cosmic sounds rather fantastical, spacey even, or perhaps an exclamation from a zoned-out hippy. No matter, I'm not afraid to admit to having been all those things at one time or another. And the photographic evidence of much of that is hopefully locked in a secure vault somewhere. Anyway, I digress. -
Wanted: Russian Deadstock Stories
You have used them over the years, night and day taking them everywhere you go. Now tell us all about it! -
The Fed 5!
image from "russianplaza.com":http://www.russianplaza.com/FED-1-2-3-4-5-C-page2.html -
Smena 8M
The Smena 8M is a b-e-a-utiful piece of Russian deadstock. With a contrasty and saturated lens, dead-easy manual controls, and a look that says, "I AM RUSSIAN, I AM AWESOME" – with a fleeting glance at the bottom of the lens barrel – "I WAS MADE IN THE USSR!", this babe is a hot one, but she's pretty useful as well. The Smena can be used in two ways. Just as the manual illustrates, you can set it up in what I call my "snapshot mode" where the aperture is 16, the shutter corresponds to those little diagrams, and the depth of field is set perfectly so I have everywhere from one meter to infinity in crystal clear, saturated, contrasty view. However, with a fiddle of the aperture, and an attitude that says, "Screw you, little diagrams, I can take the REAL numbers!" –heck, I just peer aside the camera and there they are – the Smena has a whole new, creative potential. And of course, with its dead simplicity, the Smena is easily modifiable with awesome behind the lens "masks", the sensational lens is PERFECT for x-pro, and a "re-cockable" shutter makes for insane multiple exposures. -
The Zenit E
The very best thing about the Zenit E can be summed up in one word – Versatility – well, that or weight (and either way get your head out of the gutter boys). So it is heavy as heck, which is great for urban exploring as you can use it as a pretty bitchin weapon if the need arises. Aside from that it has all the bells and whistles, as much as any old Russian has bells and whistles. Aperture setting, B setting, shutter speed, manual focus but the best thing is that the SLR lets you look at your picture as you take it, like a 1970s digital almost, what you see is what you are gonna get, except in 1-2 weeks instead of 1-2 seconds, anyways I digress. As you can see with my gallery this allows you to get the macro distance correct every time for sharp close-ups, oh thank the lord! Works well with black and white, slide, redscale, or just your standard color 35mm. You can also work it for a crisp overall look or get super wacky field of vision with the blurry back and the sharp central image. You can even go ahead and throw on the Holga filters for fun, do what you do, the Zenit E allows you. -
Lubitel Online Rumble
It's something about peering down through that waist-level finder. Sizing up your subject with the top lens and capturing it through crispy Russian glass with the bottom. It's simply irresistible to people who love and adore life. People who are open-minded, enthusiastic, free with their ideas, philanthropic, endlessly curious, always travelling, constantly documenting, and completely awestruck by the enduring power of analog photographs. We're looking for the most passionate, the seriously dedicated, the least expected, the pathologically random, and hardest of the hardcore Lubitel Lovers out there. In other words – people like you! -
The Lomographic Society Proudly Presents The Lomo LC-A+ KRAB Underwater Case!
Back in the 1980's, the Soviet Union's camera industry was in full swing and a small, blocky underwater case was created for the popular Lomo Kompakt Automat camera. Crafted in solid metal, perfectly aligned with the LC-A's knobs and curves, and designed with a distinctively Russian character, this item was never produced beyond the prototype stage and is exceptionally difficult to find. -
The Kiev 4 has arrived
Suave, classy, sharp yet smooth–these fine qualities can only come from those irresistible Russian Deadstocks who keep coming back to haunt us with their presence! -
Wanted: Your Deadstock Tale
Pass on the torch and tell the Tale of the Tribe, the Russian Deadstock Tribe to be precise.


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College of Law › Faculty & Administration › Barbara Bucholtz
Professor of Legal WritingFellow of the Sustainable Energy & Resources Law Program (SERL)John Rogers Hall email@example.com pageCurriculum Vitae
Professor Bucholtz received her J.D. from Valparaiso University of Law and her LL.M. in environmental law from George Washington University (with highest honors). Prior to joining the TU law faculty, she practiced corporate law, business litigation, class action litigation, and estate planning in the Chicago area and in Tulsa. She is a former law clerk for the Northern District of Oklahoma. She serves on the boards of several organizations in the business and the nonprofit sectors. Her teaching interests include contracts, sales, international private law, comparative corporate law, corporate law, securities law, international trade, American legal history and jurisprudence, the law of nonprofit organizations, and legal analysis and writing. She writes and speaks on topics that include international trade agreements, environmental law, and nonprofit associations.


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The merger of Spartan Stores Inc. and Nash Finch Co. is complete, and the combined company plans to start operating under a new corporate name SpartanNash.
A news release available on SpartanNash.com said the name will become effective at the annual shareholders meeting in May. Stores will continue to operate under the Spartan Stores, Nash Finch and MDV banners.
"This merger brings together two highly complementary organizations to form a leader in grocery wholesale, retail and military commissary and exchange channels," Dennis Eidson, president and chief executive officer of Spartan Stores, said in a news release. "We look forward to leveraging our new platform with its broader customer base and geographic reach to create significant long-term value for our shareholders."
SpartanNash also has a new board of directors with seven directors from Spartan Stores' previous board and four directors from Nash Finch's previous board, in addition to Craig Sturken, chairman of the board, and Eidson, chief executive officer. Other board members:
M. Shan Atkins;
Frank Gambino;
Yvonne Jackson;
Elizabeth Nickels;
Timothy O'Donovan;
William Voss;
Mickey Foret;
Douglas Hacker; and
Hawthorne Proctor.


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About Us
Globeleq is an experienced operating power company, actively developing energy projects for the emerging markets of Africa and the Americas. The company develops economically sustainable businesses that support the continued development of the electric power sector in these regions and actively participates in the communities in which it operates.
The company was launched in 2002 when the UK's CDC Group contributed both equity capital and a portfolio of power assets to the new enterprise. Over the next 5 years, Globeleq became a power industry leader in the emerging markets by operating or acquiring interest in multiple power facilities totalling nearly 4,000 MW of generation capacity in more than 20 countries.
In 2007, Globeleq divested its holdings in a number of power companies in its portfolio. Legal ownership of Globeleq was transferred in 2009 from CDC to the Actis Infrastructure Fund, a fund managed by Actis, the leading equity investor in emerging markets. The company continues to safely operate electricity generation facilities and has achieved rapid growth through development of new power generation projects and acquisition of operating facilities.
With a committed shareholder, Globeleq is uniquely positioned for further investment in the power industries of its target regions in Africa and the Americas. CDC continues to be a key stakeholder in Globeleq's business as a material investor in the Actis Infrastructure Fund.


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9 comments
Excellent! Please tell me, how many rills of film you spended to create the film? (sorry for my bad english)
Hi, guess I used 2 or 3 rolls of film for this clip, it has been a while sinds I shot this :) -
Hi, guess I used 2 or 3 rolls of film for this clip, it has been a while sinds I shot this :) -
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Brilliant. Love it!


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I-35W Bridge Collapse
Friday Marks 7 Years Since I-35W Bridge Collapse
Friday marks seven years since the I-35W bridge in Minneapolis collapsed, killing 13 people and injuring 145 others. It was the height of the evening rush hour on Aug. 1, 2007, when the 35W bridge in Minneapolis fell into the Mississippi River.
Survivors Emotionally Collect Pieces Of Collapsed 35W Bridge
Minnesota transportation officials are distributing remnants of the Interstate 35W bridge that collapsed in 2007. MnDOT says the material is being distributed at its Oakdale facility from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday. Legislation passed this year specifies who's eligible for the steel and MnDOT says it's contacted most of those people and groups.
On 6th Anniversary Of Bridge Collapse, Survivors Still Come Together
Six years ago, a bridge collapsed and our lives changed. The 35W bridge fell into the Mississippi River on this day in 2007. Thirteen people died, and another 145 were hurt when the eight-lane bridge collapsed during the evening rush hour.
Years Later, Minn. Disposing Of I-35W Bridge Steel
In a few weeks, the Minnesota Department of Transportation will begin parceling out tons of steel from the collapsed Interstate 35W bridge. They're being guided by a new state law and paying special attention to the requests of survivors from the deadly collapse, which happened six years ago Thursday.
Washington Bridge Collapse Hits Close To Home For Minnesotans
We're following the latest developments Friday morning on a story that touches very close to home for Minnesotans. A portion of a bridge on a busy interstate in Washington state collapsed Thursday, sending two cars into the water below.
Best 2013 Museum Exhibitions To Look Forward To In Minnesota
Five new powerful and profound museum events coming to Minnesota in early 2013 are alive with energy and broad appeal.
5 Years Later: The Safety Of Minn.'s Bridges
A lot has changed in Minnesota since the 35W bridge went down five years ago. State lawmakers ordered emergency inspections of every bridge in Minnesota immediately afterward, and they did find some problems.
Facing Down The Fears Of The I-35W Bridge Collapse
Saiku Kanneh has quite a story to tell. It's about what happened on the bridge, what happened when he went back, and it wouldn't be possible without the story itself.
Dayton Orders Flags Lowered On I-35W Anniversary
From sunrise to sunset Wednesday, U.S. and Minnesota flags will fly at half-staff at government buildings to mark the fifth anniversary of the Interstate 35W bridge collapse.
Court Won't Block Suit In Minn. Bridge Collapse
The Supreme Court will not block Minnesota's lawsuit against a California design firm over the deadly 2007 interstate bridge collapse in Minneapolis that killed 13 people.
Firms Sued In Minn. Bridge Failure Bid On New Span
An engineering company indelibly linked to a fatal 2007 bridge collapse in Minnesota is seeking to design a major bridge crossing on the state's border with Wisconsin.
State's Claim Over Bridge Collapse Can Proceed
The Minnesota Supreme Court says the state may seek compensation from a California design firm that tried to block lawsuits over the Minneapolis bridge collapse.
Bridge Collapse Memorial Vandalized
Just two days after its dedication, someone or some persons have defaced a memorial built to honor those affected by the 35W bridge collapse in Minneapolis.
Minnesota Makes Progress On Deficient Bridges
A Minnesota transportation official says half of the bridges rated deficient following the collapse of the Interstate 35W bridge will be repaired or replaced by the end of this construction season.
Good Question: Are Minn. Bridges Safer Post-Collapse?
It didn't take long after the Interstate 35W bridge collapsed into the Mississippi River for the tragedy and the heroism to transform into calls for action.


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