text:
Abu Dhabi's Largest Recruitment Show
The Petroleum Institute, TCA Abu Dhabi and AD Police recognised for outstanding support in Emiratisation drive; over 100 Emiratis interviewed per hour during event
With more than 6,000 job vacancies on offer to UAE nationals at this year's Tawdheef careers fair, the show's organisers have launched a new Recognition Award, presented to the company which conducts the most interviews on the exhibition floor.
Thousands of Emirati job seekers have taken to the halls of the UAE's leading recruitment show with the overall sentiment on the exhibition floor indicating the majority of graduates and candidates are confident of their career prospects.
His Excellency Sheikh Nahyan Bin Mubarak Al Nahyan, Minister of Culture, Youth & Development has officially opened Tawdheef, the leading recruitment exhibition for UAE Nationals.
Over 15,000 Emirati job seekers are expected to visit the UAE's capital over the next three days, as Tawdheef, the leading recruitment fair for UAE Nationals prepares to open its doors tomorrow (Monday 3 February).
Bayt.com experts to provide free career services to Emirati jobseekers at Tawdheef 2014
Employment experts are urging young Emiratis to fully prepare before attending career fairs such as Tawdheef, in order to make the most of the opportunities available to them.
UAE telecommunications company du has confirmed it will be looking to recruit at least 50 Emirati personnel when it participates in Tawdheef, the region's leading recruitment event, next month.
Scores of inspirational Emiratis have seen their goals and aspirations realised with the help of a virtual careers ambassador which is supporting local talent and business.
Hard work and clearly aligned expectations key to success, Almulla explains as countdown begins for Tawdheef Recruitment show
Informa exhibitions have events in almost all regions around the globe.
We have events in a wide range of different business sectors and industries.


text:
Wow, the manner in which The Game had spoken dismissively about 40 Glocc, one would have thought that this is one beef that is going to be served up cold. But 40 apparently has other ideas. He's been tweeting that he sent The Game's manager Taydoe to the canvas in Las Vegas at the Hilton Hotel around 10 pm on Saturday night. And to think poor Taydoe had arrived with his girlfriend.
Take a look at the tweet by 40, the guy is swearing by his mother. Surely, it has happened. And you know what, 40 Glocc had the gumption to do this with a lawsuit already against his name.
Rick Slick
Latest posts by Rick Slick (see all)
- DJ Paul to do Community Service as Punishment – March 14, 2013
- Machine Gun Kelly "Lace Up" Tour Dates – February 25, 2013
- Arrest Warrants Out for Suge Knight – February 25, 2013

subset: commoncrawl


text:
found a new home!
Plenty of my friends are looking
for one too. Find a pet to adopt.
Find a pet to adopt |
My name is Miss Piglet!
Facts about Miss Piglet
- Breed: Terrier (Unknown Type, Small) Mix
- Color: White - With Black
- Age: Young
- Size: Small 25 lbs (11 kg) or less
- Sex: Female
Miss Piglet's Info...
I am already spayed, housetrained, a special needs pet, up to date with shots, and good with dogs.
Hello! My name is Miss Piglet. It's either because I looked like a pig when I was a baby, or because I'm a diva like Miss Piggy the Muppet! Either way, I am convinced that I am the queen of the world.
I was born sometime in July 2011 and left in a Petsmart parking lot. Some kind folks took me in and helped me get to a rescue. I am deaf, but I don't let that slow me down one bit! The one thing I hate worst of all is when someone (dog, person, whoever) thinks they don't like me. Then it's my job to change their minds! I won't let anyone not like me, so I will cuddle and play with them until they realize what a wonderful girl I am. Big dogs, little dogs, even dogs that think they are going to try to be mean to me...I have been around them all at the rescue. I INSIST that they will love me, and after a little play time with me I can change all of their minds and have them catering to my every whim!
So here I am, young and playful and cuddly (I LOVE laps and snuggling in the bed), already housebroken, and so very smart, too. No one would even know I was deaf! The folks that took me in didn't figure it out for the longest time. The only thing would be that I would need a home with a hearing dog that I could take some cues off of - even better if it was someone I could play with and boss around! I get along with everyone (though I have not been around cats) and I am still very young so I love to play all the time. Come take me home so I can rule YOUR world!
Other Pets at Rockyspot Rescue
Why Adoption is a Great Option
Miss Piglet, a Newcastle Terrier (Unknown Type, Small) dog was adopted! Here's how you can benefit by looking at adoption as an option to buying a Terrier (Unknown Type, Small) for sale in Newcastle, or seeking a Terrier (Unknown Type, Small) dog from a breeder in Newcastle.
- Rescues and shelter volunteers in Newcastle already know the personality and tendencies of their pets. This means they can match you with the right pet. That will makes it much easier transition to owning a pet for yourself and your new pet.
- On average adoption fees are much less than you'd pay a Newcastle breeder, or pet store. Plus most often rescue pets have already been to the veterinarian for a check-up, had a round of vaccinations, and are spayed or neutered. That is a lot of savings!
- You will become a hero, and give a needy dog or cat a loving home. In fact, there are even Terrier (Unknown Type, Small) breeders who help with Terrier (Unknown Type, Small) rescue. One puppy or kitten adopted in Newcastle paves the way for another one to be saved.


text:
"She was AMAZING as our Emcee!" Carey Conolley, 2014 Success Unleashed Inaugural Event
"A powerhouse in pink boots..." -- from the Rotary Club Preferred Speaker lists
"Kudos to you for your excellent presentation to DTC-CBW. My friends and I are still talking and laughing about it." -- Jan Turner Marusin, Certified Massage Therapist
"Present this to more people! Get the word out!!" -- City of Golden employee.
"What a delightful performance! You are AWESOME! Everyone loved it. You are performing a much needed service to this world." -- Edna Erasky, Arapahoe SalesPros
"Just wanted to thank you for arranging for Anthonette Klinkerman to make her presentation yesterday (01/2012) to us. She was articulate, kept to topic, informative, backed her observations/recommendations with good justification, held interest with her presentation style, covered a depth and breath of information well matched to a 50 minute time slot and the audience, and was very credible (she practiced what she preached)." -- Bill, DTC Professionals


text:
John Calipari & Kentucky Nab 6-10 Basketball / Football Star Recruit
HighSchoolHoop.com has the story of John Calipari's latest recruiting asset at Kentucky – 6-10 Willie Cauley.
Cauley is not only a highly-touted big man prospect, but he is also a problem on the football field. HSH has highlights of Cauley on the hardwood and the gridiron.
Follow Dime on Twitter at @DimeMag.
Become a fan of Dime Magazine on Facebook HERE.
Follow HighSchoolHoop on Twitter at @HighSchoolHoop
Become a fan of HighSchoolHoop on Facebook HERE


text:
Welcome to Smogon! Check out the Smogon Starters Hangout for everything you need to know about starting out in the community. Don't forget to introduce yourself in the Introduction and Hangout Thread, too!
Welcome to Smogon Forums! Please take a minute to read the rules.
Completed Lightwolf VS Venser! Ref: Lady Salamence (i will never ref again) Subref: Lyris1035
Discussion in 'ASB' started by Lady Salamence, Jul 6, 2011.
- Thread Status:
- Not open for further replies.
- Thread Status:
- Not open for further replies.


text:
24/7 Customer Support
Chat with a Pro
Out of Stock — Usually ships within 5 - 6 days
Genuine Whirlpool part. Whirlpool brands include Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and others. See all items in Refrigerator Wire, Harness, Power Cord. Whirlpool also makes various appliance models for Sears / Kenmore.
Check your model number or use our Cross Reference Tool to determine if this part will work with your appliance.
Where can I find my model number?
Part Diagram
Part Number 2221668 (AP3133360) replaces 2187307, 908970, AH333067, EA333067, PS333067.
Wire Assembly Control Box


text:
Sun, Jul 29, 12 at 12:22
Hi, My builder has gotten us a quote for Pella Proline (wood interior, aluminum clad exterior)and I asked him to get us a Marvin quote too. He agreed, but added it would be out of my budget, likely twice as much. Is that true? Is it worthwhile to get multiple quotes on the same product from various vendors? |
Follow-Up Postings:
- Posted by millworkman (email@example.com) on Sun, Jul 29, 12 at 12:53
Absolutely twice the price and five times the value. Pella Proline = bottom of the barrel builders grade wood window and Marvin would be about the best wood window available. Integrity by Marvin fiberglass would be closer ir price and still a much better window than the Proline. |
- Posted by EcoStarRemodel (My Page) on Sun, Jul 29, 12 at 13:00
There is nothing Pella makes that is better than anything Marvin makes. I would Google "Pella Reviews" for some insights into what consumers think of Pella Windows. |
- Posted by Jumpilotmdm (My Page) on Sun, Jul 29, 12 at 14:22
You would be comparing new Michelins and a set of re-treads. |
- Posted by earthmover (My Page) on Sun, Jul 29, 12 at 16:44
Thanks for the responses. I have read a lot about Pella and Marvin. Am I likely to find better prices by getting quotes from various Marvin dealers? Strange thing about Pella, and granted my experience is very limited, but I have original 1974 Pella double paned windows in my mountain house that have been great. No rot, no condensation between the panes. We should probably replace for upgraded energy efficiency, but we have had no problems and I guess I was inclined to go that way based on my previous experience despite what I have read. Would like to go with Marvin, but not sure about the cost, which makes me wonder how much we could potentially save by shopping around with various dealers. |
- Posted by millworkman (email@example.com) on Sun, Jul 29, 12 at 17:54
You will find most guys in the same area will all be in the same ballpark. However if you have a true lumberyard near you that sells Marvin you may be able to cut a little better deal with them if you use them for essentially all you lumber and building products for your build. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Windows Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here


text:
HP vp6320 Digital Projector support
This document pertains to the HP vp6300 series digital projectors.
Lamp warning messages and lights
Over time, the lamp will decrease in brightness or may break and require replacing. The HP digital projector records the length of time the lamp is illuminated and will display warning messages about the lamp usage. When the Lamp indicator lights up red or a message appears suggesting it is time
to replace the lamp, please install a new lamp or consult your dealer. An old lamp
may cause a malfunction in the projector and in some instances the lamp may
NOTE:The Lamp indicator light and Temperature warning light will illuminate if the lamp becomes too
hot. Turn the power off and let the projector cool for 45 minutes. If the Lamp or Temperature lights
still illuminate after turning the power back on, contact HP.
The warning messages and lights and the actions you should take are listed in the tables below.
Lamp warning message | Status |
Lamp is getting old. Buy a spare lamp. | The lamp has been in operation for a long time and you should have a spare lamp available. For optimal performance, install a new lamp. |
End of lamp life. Install a new lamp Then hold the Up Arrow to reset lamp hours. | The lamp has reached the end of its life, and the projector will not operate normally until you change the lamp. |
Lamp warning light | Status |
Both red warning lights on the projector are blinking. | Allow the projector to cool down after it turns off. If this condition occurs after you restart the projector, an internal component has failed. Contact HP for assistance. |
The red Temperature light on the projector is on or blinking. | Allow the projector to cool down after it turns off. Be sure that nothing is near or blocking the vents on the projector, and that the vents are free of lint and other objects. Remove any sources of excess heat in the room. Observe temperature and altitude limits. If the warning light turns on or blinks after you restart the projector, contact HP for assistance. |
The red Lamp light on the projector is on or blinking: | Allow the projector to cool down after it turns off. If the warning light turns on or blinks after you restart the projector, install a new lamp. If this occurs after you install a new lamp module, remove and reinstall the lamp module. If a new lamp does not fix the problem, contact HP for assistance. |
The red Lamp light is flickering quickly. | Check that the cover over the lamp at the side of the projector is correctly installed and fully attached. Check the tab at the top of the cover and latch at the bottom. |
HP Support forums
Find solutions and collaborate with others on the HP Support Forum


text:
Forgot Password? | Not a User? Sign up
Your browser does not support iframes.
• The Corinth Women's Club will meet at 6 p.m. Nov. 4 at Noble's Restaurant.
• The Williamstown Kiwanis will meet at noon on Nov. 5 at El Jalisco in Williamstown.
• The Corinth Lions Club will meet at 6:30 p.m. Nov. 5 at Noble's.
• The Grant County Democratic Women's Club will meet at 7 p.m. on Nov. 6 at the Williamstown Senior Citizens Center, located at the rear of the city building.
Kyle Jansen, a junior psychology major from Crittenden, escorted Amy Hines, a junior from Paris, at the Georgetown College Homecoming Court during halftime ceremonies of the Tigers football game against Campbellsville University on Oct. 25.
Jansen is a 2006 graduate from Grant County High School. He is the son of Jim and Bonnie Jansen.
Hi! My name is Devon Edward Kinnett.
I was born on January 10, 2007 at St. Luke West.
My parents are Heather Beach and Brian Kinnett of Dry Ridge.
My grandparents are Chandra and Troy Beach of Glencoe and Jane and Mike Crider of Verona.
My great grandparents are Lawson and Kathy Beach and Belinda Poteet of Dry Ridge.
Preparing for the past golf season, Kodi Hall and Zach Wright put a lot of time into practice and playing.
It paid off as each performed well at their regional tournaments and also earned spots on the Cincinnati Enquirer's all-star team.
"As a sophomore, it means a lot because the hard work through the years has paid off and will get my name out to college coaches," Wright said. "I played well throughout the year and the high school season. Making it to state helped too."
Dry Ridge Police
Chief Rick Kells investigated an accident at 7:41 a.m. on Oct. 27 on Kentucky 22. The drivers involved were Ryan N. Ray, 27, of Lexington driving a 2002 Mitsubishi and Leah D. Good, 27, of Williamstown driving a 2004 Mazda.
Chief Rick Kells investigated an accident at 3:55 p.m. on Oct. 27 on Taft Highway in Dry Ridge. The driver involved was a juvenile, 17, of Williamstown driving a 2000 Ford that ran off the roadway.
For two years, Grant County Middle School's football team has set a standard of excellence across the state. During the state semifinals, their run came to an end.
The Braves lost to Bell County 24-14.
"It was a well-played, hard-hitting football game," head coach Jamey Dalzell said. "It was a great atmosphere and it was good for our players."
The Braves started strong against Bell, forcing their quarterback to scramble and throw under pressure, which led to a Nathan Davis interception.
Last week, I had my first taste of winter here in Kentucky. It was the end of October and it was freezing. How could that be?
Growing up in South Florida, I can remember Halloween as a kid and hating to wear a costume because it was too hot and sweaty. So you can understand why at the beginning of October, I was breaking out my winter coats. But apparently my idea of what a winter coat is and what they truly are, are two different things. I'll explain later.
Grant County earned another distinguished score at KMEA 4A regionals hosted at Rowan County High School in Morehead.
They will advance to semi-final competition on Nov. 1 at South Oldham High School.
The Milner family reunion will begin at 10:30 a.m. on Nov. 8 at the Welfare House located in Grant County Park in Crittenden. Be sure to pass the word to any out of town relatives. Call Melony Stambaugh at 859-657-6585 for information.
The 11th annual Mulligan reunion was held Sept. 6 at the Harrison County Fairgrounds 4-H building, with 45 members present.
• Members of CETA (Community Enrichment Through the Arts) will meet at 7 p.m. Nov. 10 at the Grant County Tourism Commission office in the Dry Ridge Outlet Center.
• The Grant County Democratic Women's Club will meet at 7 p.m. Nov. 6 at the Williamstown Senior Citizens Center, located at the rear of the city building.
• The Order of the Eastern Star No. 321 will meet at 7:30 p.m. Nov. 6 at Masonic Lodge No. 85 in Williamstown.


text:
Halloween Photo Contest Entry: Zoey Plays The Bongos
Posted: Oct 07 2011
This is my little Chorkie Zoey she is 2 years old and she has just filled my life with nothing but smiles and kisses. She loves to perform and pose for pictures which was the inspiration for her costume. She really does play the bongos along with the piano, she also performs 20 other tricks and if you don't have a treat or a squeaky toy a hug or belly rub will do.


text:
Dear all
Can anyone advise on how to make a thin hedge thicker? It is a double row of Privet, probably pretty old (trunks are about 3inch diameter), which is bare at the bottom and only about 2feet thick. I'd like for it to be thicker, and if the bottom could be clothed too that would be a bonus. I gather Privet will respond to drastic pruning if it is overgrown, but this is undergrown if anything! It looks like it's been regualrly clipped, so would it be enough to just let it grow out for a while? and maybe chop a couple of feet off the top? Thanks in advance
Follow-Up Postings:
Hi Linda, as far as the width goes just let it grow out and clip it at the width you want; same with height, let it grow and determine the height you want by top clipping. If too tall or wide prune it back with secateurs or loppers at almost any time. Re clothing the base with foliage is another matter and while you are correct in saying that Ligustrum responds to renovation pruning, it is still going to be experimental as to what basal growth you do get from the stumps after cutting down. To induce basal shoots you would need to prune back as far as 30cm from the ground. Any higher would most likely just produce new growth towards the top and leave the base bare. |
- Posted by shrubs_n_bulbs z8/9 UK (My Page) on Sat, Dec 3, 05 at 7:11
I wouldn't replace a privet hedge if a privet is what you want. You won't kill it accidentally and chopping it near to ground level will give you a new one very quickly. To keep the base green and fluffy you have to allow it to have light. Prune it so that the top is narrower than the bottom and the bottom will stay green. The green solid look comes from regular shearing at the size you want, but also from good branching. Don't be afraid to prune even when small. It will branch more and plants with established roots like these will still grow back very fast. |
I feel inclined to side with Peter on this(even if Peter is from Yorkshire) if as you say the trunks are three inches in diameter, cutting to the floor will have its risks. That isn't to say that shrubs n bulbs isn't right in making the point that an existing hedge can grow back quicker than a new one. If it was an old hedge that had just been allowed to grow and was now fifteen foot high I would be happier cuting it right back, and I would add that the soil in Lancaster should work in favour of the hard cut option. |
That brought a smile to my face Juno Mode. I sense a little tongue in cheek re the Yorks and Lancastrians. The fact is I'm a Cumbrian by birth, but what's in a county - just a different place to have ones home. Perhaps in due course of time Linda will let us know the result of whatever she decides to do. One of the things I've observed over my years of gardening is that the cultivation of plants holds many tolerances and some very wide indeed. Only horticultural principles come near to certainties. |
- Posted by LindaLancaster Lancashire,UK (My Page) on Mon, Dec 19, 05 at 10:50
Dear all Thanks very much for all your advice. Still can't quite decide whether to cut it back or not!! I do want to keep it, so won't be grubbing it out. I think if I let it 'grow out' a bit it will get thicker - it's been pruned to within an inch of its life I think, but if this doesn't work, I'll try cutting it down to 30-40cm and keep my fingers crossed. Love and compost PS - will also feed and mulch it well. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Gardening in the UK Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here


text: | Dáil Éireann - Volume 475 - 27 February, 1997 Written Answers. - Youth Service Grant. Mr. B. Smith Mr. B. Smith 123. Mr. B. Smith asked the Minister for Education the proposals, if any, she has to resolve the difficulties caused to youth organisations by the delay in issuing payments by her Department; and if she will make a statement on the matter. [5556/97] Minister for Education (Ms Bhreathnach) Niamh Bhreathnach Minister for Education (Ms Bhreathnach): I am conscious of the difficulties being experienced by youth organisations due to the delay in the issue of the first instalment of the youth service grant. This delay is regretted. However, I am confident that it will be possible to proceed with the process of payment in the coming week. Dáil Éireann 475 Written Answers. Youth Service Grant. Questions 19970227 | ||||||||||||||||||||||


text:
Salvia x jamensis
Jamé Sage
Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
Evergreen, Shrubs
SALVIAThought of as drought-tolerant shrubs in much of the West, this huge genus—the largest in the mint family—includes many species of shrubs and perennials that need moderate to regular water. In recent years, scores of new species and selections have appeared in Western nurseries, many tender varieties that are even being offered as annuals in cold-winter climates. All sages have square stems and whorls of two-lipped flowers, either distinctly spaced along flower stalks or so tightly crowded that they look like one dense spike; some species have branched inflorescences. Flower colors range from white and yellow through salmon and pink to scarlet and pure red, from pale lavender to true blue and darkest purple. A few sages have fragrant blossoms. Many have aromatic foliage.
Nurseries in the West offer nearly 100 species as well as dozens of selections and hybrids. Names are often confused; S. x jamensis varieties are often assigned to S. greggii; and S. nemorosa varieties are often interchanged with S. x superba and S. x sylvestris varieties.
Salvia x jamensisPlants sold under this name are hybrids involving S. greggii, S. microphylla, an unknown yellow-flowered species, and possibly other sages; they are found wild in Mexico. The habit of these evergreen shrubs varies from upright to horizontal, but plants are usually under 3 ft. tall, with fairly open branching; stems often root where they touch soil. Glossy green, oval to elliptical, toothed leaves 3/4–1 1/4 in. long. Stems are 3–6 in. long and bear 1–3/4-in. flowers in many colors: violet, wine red, orange red, hot pink, coral, salmon, yellow, white, and bicolors. Best in moderate climates without extreme temperature swings. Drought-tolerant but perform best with moderate water. Good houseplants for sunny spot.
Encelia farinosa
Native to the Southwest. Rounded, aromatic (sap is fragrant), stiff-branched shrub with silvery, ...
Ficus pumila
Native to China, Japan, and Australia. This plant has a most unfiglike habit; it is one of the few pla...
Eucalyptus nicholii
Grows to 36–48 ft. high and 15–36 ft. wide. Narrow, 3–5-in.-long, light green leaves...


text:
If you've been following the Swedish auxiliary of the premium-sedan game, you may remember a certain banana-yellow 1995 Volvo sedan called the 850 T-5R. It was the oddest of doctors--a rigidly creased, evidently safe sedan with lurid add-ons and stagecoach wheels. Intended as a marketing stunt, the T-5R seemed more like an act of consumer contempt, an attempt to embarrass Volvo's tote-bag-clutching, soy-milk-drinking, bluegrass-festival-picnicking clientele. Strangely enough, people liked it. The T-5R tapped into some hidden vein of pragmatic nuttiness theretofore unmined and sold 7500 copies instead of the allotted 3500.
The spring 2003 arrival of "R" sport versions of Volvo's S60 sedan and V70 wagon means the lessons of the previous R cars didn't go unheeded. Unlike the mostly cosmetic T-5R, though, these new cars have performance bona fides, including 300 horses, intercoolers, and semi-active suspensions. Still, they pose the question: Can maximal sportiness and safety coexist in one entity? Examples from other disciplines suggest that they can't. The motion picture Jackass, for one. Also, notice how helmets and padding have dealt blows to many a pastime, taking most of the head injuries and yuks out of hockey and football.
Things are less clear-cut in the car realm. As the scope and sales volumes of the sport-sedan category widen, so does its definition. Now there is a place for cars other than BMW and BMW-poseurs in this burgeoning class. And the R cars avoid any comparison to the BMW by dint of their front-wheel-drive-based all-wheel-drive systems, turbo powerplants, and haute design. But not, alas, to Audi, which offers the same values in mildly different form.
The S60R and the V70R will fall somewhere in price and performance between the top-line A4 3.0 and the forthcoming S4/S4 Avant. In terms of content and execution, they are fully competitive with the Ingolstadters. The R cars have been designed, in the words of Volvo designer Steve Harper, "to be subtle. They're for somebody who appreciates an individual statement, somebody who appreciates the little details, the extra pleasures." Just like an Audi, in fact. The R cars are similarly awash in careful touches. Harper reports thirty changes to S/V body and interior, for a wolf-in-sheep's-clothing effect: "You can still see the claws, or wheels, the teeth in the grille, and the exhaust peeking out like a tail," Harper notes. The claws are something: big Brembos lurking in seventeen- or eighteen-inch five-spoke wheels. The braking system's four-piston calipers clamp down on thirteen-inch ventilated discs. As a fetishistic touch, the calipers have an italicized R stamped on their sides.
The grille has been moved down a bit to lower the center of oncoming air pressure, and the entire front end has grown longer to make room for two turbo intercoolers. The Volvo design boys enlarged the central air intake, too, pulling it square and forward la BMW's M5. Flanking the grille are bi-xenon headlights in new, squinty satin-silver frames.
Harper's inspiration for the exhaust design came from the Guy Ritchie flick Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels, wherein the villain wraps his sawed-off shotgun in a newspaper to silence it. Pointing to a plastic drape over the twin exhaust tips, Harper says, "This is my newspaper."
Inside, the detailing is equally thoughtful, over and above the already high levels of craftsmanship in the mid-size Volvos. Two tiny italic Rs glint in the metallic bezels surrounding the blue speedo and tach. Three leathers are offered: dark blue metallic, beige metallic, or natural. The last is the highest grade, with the hand of a soft Herms purse. The cabin's color scheme, with warm tones abutting harsh ones, was inspired by the silver/cream gas tank on Philippe Starck's motorcycle design for Aprilia.


text:
Raw Materials Sponsored by
7 pages available as a PDF download or printed copies mailed to you
Starting at US$9 Buy This Article
Melissa or Lemon Balm Oil
Tekel et al. (1997) determined that the use of uracil herbicides (Bromacil,Lenacil or Terbacil) during the life cycle of Melissa officinalis L. did not affect the composition of the main oil components such as citronellal,neral, geranial, geranyl acetate,beta-caryophyllene and caryophyllene oxide. Although the authors did not determine the herbicide residues of the oil, they did determine that the highest residues in the plant material were 0.005–0.007 mg/kg.
An oil produced from the air-dried leaves of the 'Citra' cultivar of M. officinalis grown in the Slovak Republic was analyzed by Holla et al.(1997).
This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in P&F Magazine, but you can purchase the full-text version.


text:
found a new home!
Plenty of my friends are looking
for one too. Find a pet to adopt.
Find a pet to adopt |
My name is Photon!
Facts about Photon
- Breed: Boxer/Shepherd (Unknown Type) Mix
- Color: Tan/Yellow/Fawn - With White
- Age: Senior
- Size: Large 61-100 lbs (28-45 kg)
- Sex: Female
Photon's Info...
I am already spayed, housetrained, up to date with shots, good with kids, and good with dogs.
Photon is a grand girl who came to us because her owner passed away last year. Friends of her dad had been caring for her since his death but they decided they were going to move and couldn't take Photon with them. Sooooo the search was on to find her a new home. She came to the Sanctuary recently and has made herself at home. She gets along very well with other animals and loves her humans!!!! She does take joint medication and has a special diet of Science Diet I/D for her tummy - two very minor things. She LOVES big doggie beds. We don't know how she is with cats.
Other Pets at Mingus Manor Animal Sanctuary
Why Adoption is a Great Option
Photon, a Chandler Boxer/Shepherd (Unknown Type) dog was adopted! Here's how you can benefit by looking at adoption as an option to buying a Boxer/Shepherd (Unknown Type) for sale in Chandler, or seeking a Boxer/Shepherd (Unknown Type) dog from a breeder in Chandler.
- Rescues and shelter volunteers in Chandler already know the personality and tendencies of their pets. This means they can match you with the right pet. That will makes it much easier transition to owning a pet for yourself and your new pet.
- On average adoption fees are much less than you'd pay a Chandler breeder, or pet store. Plus most often rescue pets have already been to the veterinarian for a check-up, had a round of vaccinations, and are spayed or neutered. That is a lot of savings!
- You will become a hero, and give a needy dog or cat a loving home. In fact, there are even Boxer/Shepherd (Unknown Type) breeders who help with Boxer/Shepherd (Unknown Type) rescue. One puppy or kitten adopted in Chandler paves the way for another one to be saved.


text:
Clippings by hockeymom4 |
Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name | ||
My weekend beadboard wallpaper project/laundry room (pics)
posted by: annkathryn on 03.21.2010 at 01:22 am in Home Decorating Forum
Here is a link that might be useful: Sheesharee's original post NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 12:51 pm last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 12:51 pm
RE: My weekend beadboard wallpaper project/laundry room (pics) (Follow-Up #39)
posted by: annkathryn on 03.27.2010 at 01:44 pm in Home Decorating Forum
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 12:49 pm last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 12:49 pm
RE: Before and After - Avocado Bathroom Update (Follow-Up #33)
posted by: equest17 on 07.31.2009 at 06:58 pm in Home Decorating Forum You all have really made my day! I wish now that I had finished all the details like the valance and the faucets so you could get the whole picture. We're young and have more energy and ideas than money most of the time, but I'm so glad to know it doesn't show!
As far as the details, I cleaned the counter well with a green scrubbing pad and homemade scouring powder (baking soda, borax, and salt), but any abrasive cleanser should work. I rinsed and wiped it down, then trimmed away some of the excess caulk around the sinks. I brushed on a coat of SW Adhesion Primer. It's pretty thin and goes a very long way, so a quart should be plenty. I let it dry overnight, but that might not be necessary. In the morning, I did two coats of satin base color SW Harmonic Tan. I didn't tape off for this, since I wanted to get really close to the wall and sinks. I let this dry for a day as well; again, that might be overkill, but I wanted to make sure everything was fully cured. I used blue painters tape along the wall and around the sinks after the base coat was set. I bought a set of two sea sponges at Hobby Lobby; one was bigger and softer, the other smaller and a bit stiffer. I picked acrylic paints that coordinated with my fabric; I used Americana brand Raw Umber and Camel and Anita's All Purpose brand Black, Safari Taupe, and Olive Green. I dampened the large sea sponge, dipped it in the paint on a paper plate, and smeared it around on the plate to get off the excess. I dabbed on the black first, then raw umber, and then the lighter colors. Use a light pouncing motion and don't let it smear or it looks unrealistic. I didn't wait long enough for each color to set at first and it started to look a bit muddied. So I sponged the base color on very generously over the whole thing to reset the stage a bit. This worked really well, but if I had waited longer between paints, it might not have been necessary. Then again, it might be what gave me such a realistic look! I went back over with all the colors again using the smaller, stiffer sponge to break up any big blotches of color and get into the tight places. I used very little green and khaki (Safari Taupe), just little bits here and there to tie in the room colors. The black, raw umber, and Harmonic Tan base coat were really the key players. I think you could use these paints and add an accent color or two of any muted shade and make it work with other fabrics or décor. After it all dried, I used three coats of water based polyurethane. It left some brush strokes I wasn't thrilled with, so I may experiment with a different product or application method if there is a next time. Also, I would recommend removing the painter's tape before the poly coat if you have a steady hand. I neglected to and the tape peeled off a bit of the poly in some places. Well, that's it in a nutshell. Hope that wasn't too many details, but since I had to figure it out as I went, I wanted to share as much as possible. Here's a close up picture so you can see the mix of colors. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 10.13.2009 at 11:46 am last updated on: 10.13.2009 at 11:46 am
RE: Window cornices done! Finishing touches? (Follow-Up #9)
posted by: equest17 on 04.23.2009 at 10:17 pm in Home Decorating Forum The following is the instruction sheet from the workshop on foam cornice boards I co-taught at the county extension office. Since it was just a handout meant to accompany the class, it might be a bit hard to following without a demonstration. Let me know if anything is unclear.
A plywood cornice would be similar, except you need woodworking tools and would use a staple gun to assemble and upholster. I actually use my pneumatic stapler with 3/8" staples to attach the fabric to the foam cornice; it's much faster than pins and holds well as long as you angle the gun when you shoot. A hand stapler doesn't work on foam, so unless you have upholstery tools, pinning as the sheet describes would be best. (One nice thing about pinning to foam is you can easily remove the fabric later and recover the cornice if you tire of the original look.) If you have access to it, a half-thickness sheet of Dacron wrap is a little better than quilt batting, but the latter is cheap and easy to find. You can do scalloped or profiled bottom edges with the cornice, also. Just trace your design onto the front valance and cut it out with the utility knife. You'll have to clip the fabric a lot to go around curves when you pin/staple it, so something that doesn't ravel is best. I found that fabric with a bit of stretch is actually great for this. The little girl's cornice I did below used a knit plush material and had enough give to pull tightly around the curves without puckering. CORNICE BOARD INSTRUCTIONS Supplies: 1. 4' x 8' sheet of 1/2" foam core insulation board (available at Home Depot or Lowes) Measuring Cornice: For each cornice, you will create the following four (4) pieces from foam core board as instructed below: 1. Determine height of front valance face (generally between 10" - 18", based on window size, ceiling height, or other personal preferences). Assembly: 1. Using straight edge, mark desired dimensions on white side of foamboard; score with box cutter or utility knife, snap along line, and cut through aluminum skin if necessary. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.24.2009 at 11:03 am last updated on: 04.24.2009 at 11:03 am
RE: Framing around bath mirror (Follow-Up #11)
posted by: mclarke on 06.27.2007 at 05:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum Okay, here goes.
You will need: - a mitre saw or a mitre box w/saw First, buy a set of metal mirror clips. You'll find these in Home Depot in the "Picture Framing" section. They come two to a package. I used 3/8" clips. The size of the clips is determined by the thickness of your mirror glass. Use the smallest you can get that will hold your mirror to the wall. This is the secret to "working around" the plastic clips, LOL. Remove the plastic clips and replace them with the metal clips. No, wait -- actually, put the metal clips on FIRST and THEN remove the plastic clips, so the mirror doesn't fall off the wall, LOL. Depending on the size of your mirror, you might want to use mollies with the clips. (My mirrors are resting on backsplashes, so I wasn't too worried about them falling.) If you use mollies, make sure you get the kind that are flush to the wall. You're using metal clips because they have a much lower profile. This will be important later. Two clips on the top and two on the bottom should suffice. Next, measure the mirror and buy your trim. Give yourself about a foot extra on each side, because you'll have to cut it down for the mitered corners. Make sure the trim you buy is not warped. You can do this by laying the pieces on the floor at the store. The pieces should lie flat on the floor. NOTE: You are going to paint and assemble the frame BEFORE you put it up. Paint the trim BEFORE you cut it. When painting long trim pieces, make sure you put a base coat on BOTH SIDES, front and back, even though you are only going to see one side. If you only paint one side, the wood will warp. (I found THAT out the hard way, LOL.) You can do this if you lay the trim on a couple of paint cans as you paint. When you have the paint and finish the way you want it, carefully measure your mirror. (If you're new at this sort of thing, you might want to make a mockup of cardboard or craftpaper first, to get the measurements exact.) Remember, you want the edge of the glass to fall about halfway under the frame. Measure and mark the wood, and carefully cut your four pieces, mitering the corners at 45 degrees. Sand the cut edges till they're smooth. Don't worry about little chips in your paint, you'll touch these up later. Before you glue the corners, drill small nail holes in the side corners of the two side pieces only. Drill all the way through. (You will put little nails here after the frame is assembled, for added strength and to prevent twisting.) Lay the four pieces on a flat surface. (I use the floor) Put the corner clamps at each corner, adjusting them until you're satisfied with all four corners. Now release the corners, one at a time, applying glue to the edges that will join, and return the corners to the clamp, tightening each corner, one at a time, wiping away excess glue as you go. Leave the frame to dry over night. In the morning, remove the corner clamps carefully. Put four small nails into your four nailholes. Countersink the heads, and if they are going to show, fill them. With fine sandpaper or steel wool, smooth off any flaws. Using an artist's brush, touch up any part of the corners that need to be touched up. Let this dry. Try your frame onto the mirror. You will see that the frame still doesn't lie quite flat to the mirror because of the clips. Using a pencil, mark the back of the frame where the clips interfere with the frame. Using a small handsaw and the wood chisel, chip away just enough wood from the back of the frame so that the frame will lie flat to the mirror. This is easier than it sounds... it's a very small bit of wood and you don't have to be too delicate about it because it's on the back of the frame and no one will ever see it. When you've chipped out your four small bits of wood, the frame should now lie flat to the glass! Clean the mirror and the back of the frame very well. Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the back of the frame -- not too close to the inner edge, because you don't want the silicone to show in the mirror -- and press the frame to the glass. Stand there and hold the frame to the mirror for twelve hours. Okay, not really. This last bit is kind of hard to describe... I contrived several lengths of scrap wood and gallon paint cans as braces to hold the frame pressed to the wall until it cured. I wish I had pictures of the process, sorry. I hope I haven't scared anyone off. Let me know if I've been too obscure and I'll try and help. Good luck and let me know how you do! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 10:51 pm last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 10:52 pm
Easy to sew valance directions
posted by: my3dogs on 07.17.2008 at 08:01 pm in Home Decorating Forum Hi everyone!
Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it. This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness. I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width. Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side. Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up! Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you. Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam. You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching. I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out. Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN! Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there. Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side. Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape. Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front. Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side. You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets! If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.) Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one. Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties. Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!) Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching. Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this. Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done! Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance. Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length. Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want. You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower... This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them! Here is a link that might be useful: several shown here - all the same instructions NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.18.2008 at 01:52 pm last updated on: 07.18.2008 at 01:52 pm
RE: What would you do to hide this? (Follow-Up #52)
posted by: annz on 07.04.2008 at 01:32 am in Home Decorating Forum terriks.........you forgot the " marks. They go before the 'http' and after 'here'.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm last updated on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm
RE: What would you do to hide this? (Follow-Up #51)
posted by: terriks on 07.03.2008 at 11:48 pm in Home Decorating Forum NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm last updated on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm
RE: Can this sideboard be saved? (Follow-Up #9)
posted by: moonshadow on 03.11.2008 at 01:16 pm in Home Decorating Forum I was thinking what mom2 was; if termite damage isn't bad, just fill the holes with wood filler or putty. You can even get it in colors to closely match the existing stain so it might not even be noticeable. (Take a drawer to HD and check the flooring section, they have some pretty good tinted fillers made for hardwood flooring. Or check your local independent paint dealer or hardware.)
I've refinished a lot of furniture, and honestly from what I see in the photo that piece does not warrant stripping and refinishing. Working with antique laminates can get tricky, some are more delicate or fragile from age, storage, etc. I use Restore-A-Finish for pieces that don't warrant a full refinish job. For that piece I'd suggest Walnut tint or Mahogany. (Cherry is too red, imho). Sears Hardware has the best selection of tints I've found, my Ace carries it too. Clean the wood well first. I like Formby's Deep Cleansing Build-Up Remover, or if not terribly dirty just a mild dishwashing liquid in water. (No Murphy's Oil soap, it can gunk up the finish on wood.) If you opt for detergent/water, don't saturate the rag with water, wring it out well. Once clean and dry go on to the RAF. This stuff is really potent smelling and if you can do it outside in the garage, better. I've done stuff inside in winter, but had to use a fan in the window set as exhaust, pulling the odor out of the room. You can either wipe RAH on with a rag or super fine (Grade #0000) steel wool. Wipe only in the direction of the wood grain with steel wool and test first, underside or inconspicuous area would be good. Let the RAF sit for a bit, it will give the color a boost, then wipe per instructions on can. There are further instructions at Howard's web site. Protect the floor too. I cut up contractor (thick) garbage bags if I don't have a painter's tarp on hand, then layer with lots of newspaper. Follow up with a good paste wax (only need to do that once a year or so). Don't use polishes in the mean time, just dust it. ;) I like Howard's Beeswax or Trewax, although if you search the furniture forum for "paste wax" in recent months another good one was recommended. (Meant to save that post, darn it!) At the risk of showing this again, this is a vintage Penn House hutch (40's -early 50's) I got on eBay. Seller's original photo and my photo after I did my cleaning & RAF routine on it. My After (I started out with Cherry RAF, too much red, so switched to Mahogany) NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.03.2008 at 11:16 am last updated on: 04.03.2008 at 11:17 am
RE: cheap kitchen floor that doesn't _look_ cheap? (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: breiaj on 03.25.2007 at 01:11 pm in Flooring Forum The vinyl tiles, although they aren't everyone's first choice, can be one of the best solutions for your situation. I have installed several floors using these tiles, and it's a "do-it-yourself if you can use scissors" kind of project. There are slate looking products at both HD and Lowes that are magnificent at hiding any dirt. I think I used the HD Morrocan slate pattern.. (or something like that..) last time, and if you don't feel like it, you really don't have to clean it because it's the color of dirt anyway :-)The one I used also had a 25 year warranty, and that's a good selling feature for your house. I have this product in my own kitchen...(that's how I know about the dirt thing) and I am a real estate investor, and have had great success installing and and selling this product in my properties. You may want to try a flooring specialty store for more choices, but I have had some really nice results from the Home Depot stuff....and, it's about .99 per square foot. Most of these tiles at the Home Depot or Lowes are self stick..the more expensive designer tiles are not (usually) So here are my best tips to moron- proof your project. 1.)Buy a little extra for uhh..scissorical errors 2.)Start in the center of the room, and lay out a row of tile. When you get to the last tile on each end of the row, you might need to make an adjustment..what I mean is this: if on one side of your room you need to cut a very small piece of tile, you might want to adjust it so that the ending tile on each side of the row is even. I install the entire first row and then use it as my guide. 3.) *Most important and best tip* Self stick tiles are surprisingly self stick..that is very bad for installers who aren't fully confident in their sticking abilities. You accidentally mis-stick that puppy and he's there to stay..or, a pain to lift..not so bad if you do it once, but chances are you'll do it a lot. Most of the vinyl floors I see installed, it's pretty obvious that by the third or fourth mis-stick the installer said..."well, it will just have to stay that way...it will look more realistic with the bigger cracks anyway" not good, not true, and certainly not beneficial for the resale of your house :-) So, here's what you do: buy yourself a few nice paint brushes..try to get the ones that the bristles don't pull out too easily, and make sure you buy a few....don't bother trying to clean them, it's not worth the hassle..and the cheap paintbrushes will make this harder..so consider the destruction of three $17 paintbrushes a casualty of a successfully waged war against anti-do-it-yourself-dom. I buy a vinyl floor adhesive, I think last time I used an Armstrong product. Keep in mind..the Home Depot or Lowes associates will look at you like you're mad if you ask them to recommend an adhesive product for a self-stick floor tile..so you may want to locate this product on your own... to avoid being reported to the vinyl flooring police. I am quite sure this was in a white bucket with blue lettering and a lighter blue background..but that could have been the carpet stuff..or maybe it was carpet and vinyl in one...I can't remember. Anyway, pretty much any vinyl sheet/tile adhesive in a bucket (never a tube!) will do.
The tiles will come with a paper backing, and if you need to cut the tile, leave the paper on while you do that. Otherwise, peel the paper off, and put a very very thin coat of the adhesive on the back. The adhesive will tell you to use a trowel..don't!! It'll ooze up through the cracks and you don't want to have to clean it up (goo-gone will do it for small mishaps, but you don't want have to mop with it) The reason the instructions say to use a trowel is because you need more adhesive for non-self-stick floors, and that's what the adhesive is made for. The adhesive will do several things for you and the new home owners...it will allow you to position, slide, or reposition your tiles as you go...and your installation will be perfect..no cracks. Also, the floor will be stuck much better for longer. The self stickers do lose their stick sometimes, and this extra adhesive is double-duty fabulous for both installation and life of the floor. Tip #4: I install the center of the floor first...no cutting any tiles...just breeze through the center..peel, paint, position. The edges are the worst part, but you can use some paper to help make templates for really tricky spots..that way you cut the paper a few times but the vinyl only once. This helps to add additional "you can do it" reassurance to your project. Also...depending on your base moulding..the adhesive may allow you to slide the tile under the edges a bit...a welcome treat from time to time..less fancy cuts. The vinyl doesn't look cheap...because it imparts a warmth to the floor..the tiles that are shiny white with fake green marble patterns..those are horrible, as are most of the high gloss peel and stickers...I think what really gives this product it's character is it's low shine and natural looking colors...and, it will really bring out your woodwork. Bring a few home to compare against the wood and your counter top..and it's hard to go wrong. You should get a great looking floor, for about $500..and a boost to your DIY ego. The ceramic is a great product as well, but costly for the install and very tough to do it yourself. Let me know if you need more info! firstname.lastname@example.com NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.03.2008 at 11:24 pm last updated on: 03.03.2008 at 11:24 pm
Details (Follow-Up #30)
posted by: nodirthere on 02.06.2008 at 05:40 pm in Kitchens Forum Wow- Thank you all so much for all your wonderful compliments! I never did a forum before and have learned so much from all of you-hope I can give some knowledge back. Many have asked for details so here they are- I hope this will save someone else some time. In full disclosure,my painter did everything but the glazing and design work and leg work- he did a fabulous job achieving the result I wanted. I wanted a more French country feel and did not want to see the oak grain at all.(I felt that would look less elegant and more rustic)
This was the process on the cabinet doors (taken off)-product sprayed on unless otherwise noted: 1. coat of Insl-x STIX Primer 2. Spackled smooth coat of MH Ready patch by Zinsser (this was after an attempt w/a wood filler that proved to not fill the grain as much as I wanted- I wanted a piano finish, I'm sure there is something out there that would be easier, and there are lots of fillers we found, but they would not fill ALL the grain, so we went right to the MH.) 3. Sanded w/hand sander -start out bigger grit end end w/fine-(120) 4. Coat of Insl-x Stix Primer (this stuff really works) 5. 2-3 coats of Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo- Custom color Formula: Pastel base 314-1B-1 oy-31 bk-7 og-6 6. Hand glaze-Custom color Benjamin Moore Glaze base-409-00-4 bk-6 Br-4 og-3 oy-14 wh-12 I used medium size sponge brushes and lots of paper towels-(use Viva -all the difference in the world!)- you could use cotton rags, but I found the viva was the easiest in keeping the rest of the cabinet clean by changing them out frequently. There were so many coats of stuff that it made my corners less than 45 degrees and difficult to wipe the glaze on then wipe off leaving the glaze in the edge of cabinet trim. I had to create the line by painting it on w/pointy sponge tips and dragging it along the line. This is kind of hard to explain-think of when you are caulking and go back and smooth it out and the caulk stays in the corner of your line w/ a nice finish on the outside- same thing-I ran into problems when the corners got filled w/too much coatings and had to "create" the line- our else I would go back and wipe the whole line off. Hope I'm explaining this ok-I did try brushes but found it easier to drag the glaze than brush it- I kept thinking there had to be a better way, but never did find one (it was about 45 min each cabinet). I only did the trim corners- I did not do the whole cabinet w/ a washed glaze effect- I have seen it but didn't think I wanted that much "aging" -and wasn't THAT confident in my abilities. Other details- all trim work was hardwood not oak, since we were painting it anyway-saved lots of $ w/ that. The "table legs" on the island are actually newall post for stairs sold at minards for $30, w/the ball cut off the top- hugely cheeper than buying an island leg! The corner spindles are actually $12 wall corner guards from Minards and Home Depot. Wasn't sure about them and haven't glazed them yet because of that-now I'm just getting use to them. Filled in the difference between bead board and corner w/spackle-smoothed it out. Beadboard just the big sheets-tried glazing it but just looked way too "stripey" and wanted to minimize the country look so left it alone. Granite is Uba Tuba-ogee edge- I am so glad I did the slight archon the island and little scallop in- last minute idea and it really made a difference. Base trim- hemmed and hawed getting rid of the toe kick-especially w/ cream cabs- but so glad I did -all for that furniture look. Glass cabinets were the cabinets above the wall oven-cut out the inside- had my local glass cutter fit some glass to the frame- glass shelf for inside cabinet. Cut 1 foot off the depth of the floor cabinets and reattached to the wall- lost the drawers. Tile backsplash is acid washed tumbled travertine. The embossed tiles under mw and repeated under the glass cabinets were from Home Depot and ceramic -very inexpensive $3. They even have light switch covers that match the travertine there. Lighting above and below cabinets are those little round halogen lights from HD. Ok- that's all the detail I can think of -someone asked how this came to be- I poured through 100's of magazines and websites for a long time- and saved pictures that I liked-also I visited the big stores and took all their cabinet catalogs I could- those really helped w/the wood bridge detail over the window and those details. In painting cabinets you can hide lots of mistakes and miscuts w/ putty and spackle-would do it all over again- Hope this helps someone save 1 trip back to the hardware store! Thanks again for the kudos-nodirthere (in reference that I do not garden, not the cleanliness of my house- I can assure you my kitchen doesn't look like this today)-Gotta go shovel out -got 12" at least in n. Illinois today...... NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.26.2008 at 11:58 am last updated on: 02.26.2008 at 12:15 pm
RE: Before/after pictures-oak to cream/glazed -pictures (Follow-Up #42)
posted by: nodirthere on 02.24.2008 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum Sorry it took me so long to get back -my kitchen is 13 ft wide and 13 1/2 ft long. We have 9ft ceilings. We had to take back the cabinets 1 ft for more passage space- I left one tall shelf in those cabinets and I find it is perfect for cereal boxes- the kids eat right at the counter and it is a convenient place for all of the breakfast stuff. The one foot is not alot of counter, but we have used it to set up the wine bar when we entertain- I am having technical difficulties w/my camera at the moment-the eating area is typical-you can see the chandelier in the corner of the pictures and we have a table in front of the sliding door-then it opens to the family room. Good luck w/your remodel. I am really happy w/extra seating-(I have 3 kids)-no regrets giving up the cabinet space- have a wonderful journey-I'll be watching for your pics!
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.26.2008 at 11:59 am last updated on: 02.26.2008 at 12:06 pm
RE: Before/after pictures-oak to cream/glazed -pictures (Follow-Up #48)
posted by: nodirthere on 02.26.2008 at 09:15 am in Kitchens Forum Hockeymom- the island is 26" cabs and the granite is 38" at the widest (it's arched)-the aisles are both 39"- I think the min. suggested is normally 36". It depends on what your layout is, but you may need more behind the stools- the area behind our stools is not part of the kitchen triangle, so it works for us-my stools are "saddle stools" and wide but not deep and fit under the island overhang really well- I like the look of stools w/backs- but they get in the way of serving buffet style food on the island which we do a lot of- My under $10,000 price tag includes everything but the appliances - but I have an awesome painter/handyman who did the majority of the work for $4000- I got a great price on my granite from a local guy-and he included the sink-$3500 installed-the backsplash was $900 installed total-
I fell into some great prices- the granite guy had a bunch of Uba tuba in stock and had the acid wash tumbled travertine in stock for the back splash, so he gave me super prices-I had a great experience working w/ a local guy and he didn't nickel and dime me on the extras on the design like the arch in the island-I think this is an upcharge at HD-(They wanted $7500) for basic cut out. The lights were those halagen puck lights at HD -my painter put them up-don't think this was very hard and less than $200. debbie- my lights were there before -we didn't change them- I think they are (something)Feiss (sp)-can't remember the first part of the mnf. name -they are over 6 years old-I have a friend that got them at Expo (I got them at a local lighting co)is it holly feiss, molly feiss....the memory is going-sorry NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.26.2008 at 11:59 am last updated on: 02.26.2008 at 12:00 pm
RE: Cleaning old wood furniture (Follow-Up #5)
posted by: johnmari on 02.03.2008 at 03:32 pm in Home Decorating Forum The very very first thing to do is just go over the wood with a soft rag that's just dampened with tepid water and a very mild soap. (If it hasn't been finished with polyurethane, this IS one of the good uses of Murphy's oil soap.) Wipe gently. Use a baby toothbrush or q-tip for carved areas. Repeat with clear water and wipe dry. This will likely remove a surprising amount of dirt. If it's something that has been waxed and has developed a build-up, the wax may cause products like Howard's or Old English to cover unevenly. (Found this out the hard way.) Liberon Wax and Polish Remover is fantastic for getting a thick build-up of wax and dirt off. Then you can go at it with one of your other products.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am last updated on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am
RE: Cleaning old wood furniture (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: ladynimue on 02.02.2008 at 03:28 pm in Home Decorating Forum If they're scratched or marred or dull, then try some Restor A Finish put on with 4 aught (0000) steel wool, after you clean them. I did this in my bathroom on 20yo cabinets and they look almost brand new + their color didn't change. It even took out some pretty major scratches (like the groves my ds made when he took off the handles).
It costs about $6 and comes in many different wood tones, including mahogany - and it's permanent, unlike the oil in in Old English (which I do like for cleaning, but I used Minwas Wood Cleaner). NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am last updated on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am
RE: Countertop Redo - Thanks for photoshop help! (Follow-Up #11)
posted by: gr82bgrammy on 06.12.2007 at 01:15 am in Home Decorating Forum Wow! Ya'll know how to make a girl feel good! Thanks for the complements! It was all about a quick change, saving some money, and as the story goes about the Little Engine That Could "I think I can, I think I can"!
My friends say that I will redo anything with a little paint! I thought I had pics that I made to show the steps, but I must have deleted them. WARNING: THIS PROCESS WILL TAKE ABOUT A WEEK TO FULLY CURE! I suggest you put the base coat on after dinner one night and start the faux painting in the morning, as it will take most of the day and you can't get it wet during the painting process. Also, you need to make arrangements not to use the counters for a few days. DO NOT GET COUNTER WET UNTIL YOU HAVE 4 COATS OF POLY ON IT AND THE LAST COAT HAS SET AT LEAST 24 HOURS! This will ensure that your counter has fully dried and poly has had time to harden. I continued to be very careful not to let water sit on the countertop for about a week. Here's what I did: 1. Scrubbed the old counters clean and cleaned out any gunk around the metal trimwork with a toothpick. 2. Taped off the sink, walls and metal trim at top of backsplash area. 3. Gave a good coat of primer. I used Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Water Based Primer and applied with a small sponge roller. Let dry overnight. 4. Put on 1st coat of paint. I used a black acrylic craft paint and applied it with a small foam roller. Let dry about 2 hours. 5. For the faux finish, I used paint I had on hand - a taupe latex wall paint, white latex wall paint, and a brown craft paint. In a large plastic plate, randomly drizzle small amounts of several colors of paint leaving open space between colors. On top of the colored paints, drizzle waterbased glazing liquid. I used SW Illusions latex based, clear. 4. Dampen a fist sized piece of natural sea sponge in water and wring out well. Dab the sponge randomly into the paint/glaze mixture and then blot a couple times in an empty plate to take off some of the paint. 5. Dab paint onto your base coated counter top in random pattern. Make sure you twist your hand with each dab, so that the pattern of paint is varied and sort of smeared. IMPORTANT: to get the effect I did, and not a 1980's sponge painted look, you MUST TWIST YOUR WRIST as you dab paint onto the counter. That sort of smears the paint a little, creating a more natural look than a straight on sponging method. Believe me - I tried the other way first - it looked very FAKE! I experimented a little and came up with this technique. You can see the results are more realistic this way. 6. Continue dabbing into paint, dabbing off on another paint, and dabbing with a twist onto counter top until entire surface has been randomly "sponged" with color. Let this dry an hour or so. IMPORTANT: If your paint starts to get too muddled on your paint palette plate or the sponge, get a new plate and re-drizzle colors and glaze. You can also rinse sponge out if needed. The main thing is, you don't want all the colors to blend in together too much. You need to be able to see some variation in the colors on your surface, but you want the colors somewhat smeared. I hope this makes sense. 7. Get a clean paint palette plate and drizzle your base color, in my case black, and then drizzle glazing liquid on top of that. Clean your sponge out and squeeze well. Then, apply a layer of the base coat to the counter using the same dab on, dab off on another plate, then dab on counter with a smear technique that you applied the color with. Go over entire countertop using this technique, being sure that you don't cover up all the color, just make it all blend well. Let this dry an hour or so. 8. Stand back and look at the over all effect. Do you like what you see? If so, great! After this dries 24 hours, you are ready for the poly. If not, you can repeat the steps above using any of the colors you need to dab on in places. Make sure you drizzle some of the glaze over the color on your plate. The glaze helps the colors to blend. Top it all off with the base coat and glaze to soften the colors. 9. Let your faux painted countertop dry at least 24 hours after finishing that process. 10. Now you are ready for the poly. I used Minwax Water Based Polycrylic protective finish. It took about a quart to do my 12' section of countertop. I used the water based because I was told the oil based will yellow over time. If I had it to do over again, I would use the oil based Poly because it dries much harder and you don't have to baby the countertop at all. Since I used a dark base coat, it wouldn't matter if the topcoat yellowed some. Using the water based, I do have to be careful not to let water set too long or the finish will get a cloudy white look on it. When it dries, the counter is clear again. I plan to put a couple coats of the oil based poly on top of my counter soon for added protection. If you are using a dark base color, I suggest you save yourself some trouble and use the oil base poly right from the start! The directions will be the same except I'd buy extra rollers and throw them away between coats instead of cleaning them with mineral spirits! Another thing, I tried several different types of applicators for the poly. I wanted a very smooth and even coat. The small foam roller gives the smoothest coats. Okay, how to apply the poly: 2. When 1st coat of poly is dry, sand lightly with very fine sandpaper or a sanding sponge. I used the sanding sponge and it worked very well. Don't be afraid that you'll remove all the poly. You won't. The sanding is required to get the smooth surface that is desired. It also helps the next coat of poly to adhere well. Don't skip the sanding!!! Wipe all sanding dust off counter with a damp cloth. Wipe again for good measure! You can wrap a ziplock bag around roller to keep it fresh for next coat. 3. Apply a second coat of poly rolling in the opposite direction of the first coat. Remember not to roll over wet surface and don't overlap much. Let this coat dry as directed and repeat the sanding process. Wipe clean. 4. Continue steps 1 and 2 until you have 4 coats of poly on counter. Sand one last time. You should have a very smooth surface now. 5. Let the counter sit undisturbed for several days for the poly to harden. I made the mistake of letting some glasses dry on a towel on the counter the second day after finishing them and the water based poly softened in that area. I have a few little blemishes there from the towel. Don't do that. Be patient and enjoy your results! You can do it!!! Everybody that has seen my counters have been amazed that I did it myself with paint. It really looks good and everybody thinks I got new counters until I show them the indention from the previous burned area! Since I did this, I found out I could have filled that place in with wood filler or bondo. Oh well, I just say it's a 100 year old house, it took years to get this much character! If you take on this project, please send me before and after photos. Also feel free to email me if you have other questions about the process. Grammy NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 06.12.2007 at 10:37 am last updated on: 06.12.2007 at 10:39 am


text:
Louis XIII Rare Cask is the most expensive cognac in the world isn't it? The last I heard, it was more than twenty thousand dollars per bottle. Not many people can afford the bottle, so they sell glasses of it for several thousand dollar at very high-end hotels.
I've read so many articles about the amazing taste of this cognac. I'm sure it tastes out-of-this-world, but I actually like the bottle. It has a very cool, black designer bottle. If I were rich, I would buy one just for the bottle! I'm not sure if I would drink it though. It's too expensive to drink!


text:
hi there newbie here needing help!!!
i am after a good cake recipe that would be able to withstand stacking.
say i am making a sugarpaste covered 3 tier cake but each cake is 3 layers filled with jam and buttercream like what they do on cake boss!
i would like something light but still strong enough to carry weight!
i have tried various different recipes but not found one i really like so would like someone to share their favourite recipe that they think works for my needs if possible!


text:
I've cast on for a purely me project – can you guess what it is? The pattern calls for Softspun – which I chose as my MC – but I'm using Regal instead for CC1 and CC2. I might jabber on about the changes I'm making if anybody's interested (for both fit and personal taste).
Contest Update:
As much as it saddens me, I had to give up on 559 – perhaps somebody threw away their ticket, not realizing how close they were to baby alpaca joy.
So, I picked a new number (1214), which ended up being Christina in Montana – one of the customers and newsletter subscribers. Her response: 'are you serious?'…
3 Comments
Congrats Christina! (tho' secretly a jellyfish) – and would love your jabber on changes Maybe a yoked cardi??
Is it Corcovado? I just started a swatch/sleeve today, and I also went with a dark MC, and lighter CCs. Your combos very pretty!
Looks like a Carol Feller to me. Corcovado?


text:
Car Forums / Kia / Kia Optima
Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Kia Optima 2006.5-2008
mickeyrom Posts: 936Now come on Backy.Having difficulty finding a car with the options you want does not constitute a problem with the car.
I will admit that finding a used EX is not easy.Maybe that is because that once somebody buys one they keep it.That is how I am with my Optima.So far it's been a joy. -
mickeyrom Posts: 936Some dealers offer only the more expensive flush,but that is not required.I just get the fluid changed approx every two years by a dealer and my warranty is all good.That is more than is required in the owners manual.When I got my change at around 25K miles,they asked me why? They recommended changing the tranny fluid at 30K miles.
mikemartin Posts: 205Guys, I need a fast answer, if possible.
What warranty protection do I get on a used 2006.5 (new body style) Optima LX?
I know that the 10 year/100k mile powertrain warranty doesn't transfer, but what about the 5 year/60k bumper to bumper warranty (which includes the powertrain)?
And if that does transfer, how do I prove the previous owner followed Kia's service schedule?
I am under the impression that if the previous owner did not follow Kia's service schedule, even on a minor issue, Kia will try to void the entire warranty if I have an issue.
Any help would be appreciated. -
mickeyrom Posts: 936I think that is a question better answered by a dealer.I assume that you don't have the receipts.
Mike,no offense,but why would you buy a car that hasn't been properly maintained.
As far as I know,the only maintenance that would affect the warranty would be the oil changes and the tranny fluid changes.That is only if those two units were to fail.Surely not rotating the tires(just an example) would affect your warranty.
If it were me,I would do a complete service on this car, and thereafter faithfully follow the recommended service while keeping all the receipts. -
mikemartin Posts: 205
backy Twin CitiesPosts: 18,787There's not that many options here:
1) You are buying the car from a Kia dealer. You get them to state, in writing, that the car is covered by the remainder of the 5/60k factory warranty. After that, it's up to you to maintain the car according to the manufacturer's recommended service schedule.
2) The owner had the car serviced at a Kia or other service center that maintains computer records. You get a printout of those records and verify the car was maintained properly.
3) The owner has hardcopy records of all servicing, showing the car was maintained properly.
4) The owner makes a written, sworn (before a notary public) statement that he/she performed all service according to the manufacturer's service schedule (not sure that will satisfy Kia if there's a dispute, but it's better than nothing).
5) Carfax shows all servicing was done (not real likely, as I've found Carfax unreliable in showing ALL servicing records).
6) You can't verify that the car was serviced according to the manufacturer's schedule, hence buying the car is a crapshoot, in multiple ways. -
mikemartin Posts: 205
csandste Posts: 1,866Was surprised to see the overall evaluation of the 07 Optima to be under eight, especially since it was quite high the last time I checked. Note the large block of extremely low rated comments, things I never see on the forum
--- is there some kind of Toyota salesman out there getting even or does the 07 really suck (earlier and later models don't seem to reflect this), and last time I checked
had owners experience with the Optima at the top end. -
backy Twin CitiesPosts: 18,787All the really negative comments are puzzling. Seems to be many cars with multiple transmission failures, head gasket failures, starter failures, etc. But some comments are really strange. Like the one about the owner who had lots of problems starting at 42k miles, so he sold it, and "a month later" the new owner said he'd had lots of "insanely expensive problems" with the car. Which means either that new owner drove over 18k miles on the car in very short time period (so the warranty was used up), or Kia didn't honor the warranty for these problems. :confuse: Then there's the one where "Hyundai" refused to honor the warranty because they said service was not performed at a dealership. Uh, isn't this a KIA??
Also consider CR's reliability data has the '07 Optima rated "Much above average" (red dot) as of April 2009, which is about the timeframe of many of the negative comments (that issue was published around March 1, 2009). All of the engine and transmission categories are "much above average" also. The timing is... interesting.
I particularly like "Bev"''s multiple reviews. First she writes a balanced review, some negative but some positive marks. Then someone else posts a review with all 1's. Bev comes back and posts another review a few days after her first, this time with all 1's.
It's also interesting how some engine and transmission problems can affect a car's comfort, and interior and exterior design--those are 1's too. :surprise: -
mickeyrom Posts: 936Either I have been incredibly lucky,or those are posts created by the NRC. I love my KIA and it now has over 30K miles on it.You might remember my problems with the passenger seat air bags,but once that annoying problem was solved,the Optima has been nothing short of perfection.I'll let you know if that ever changes,but all I've done so far is change the oil,rotate tires and one time change the tranny fluid. :shades:
mickeyrom Posts: 936Somebody posted that they had to replace that belt at 30,000 miles.I asked what the symptom was which made them check it.There was no reply to my question,so here I am asking other Optma owners again.Is there something I should be watching for which will give me a hint that my sepentine needs attention?
mickeyrom Posts: 936
aruba531 Posts: 11It started "chirping" and kind of squeeling almost like that chain sound that those old volkswagon beetles use to sound like. It didn't happen all the time, but once the car warmed up, it was almost constant and very embarrasing. I was surprised it wasn't covered in my 100,000 mile warranty. I didn't want to pay, so I had my husband do it for me. At first my husband thought it was the idler pulley, and it could have been, so he greased it and while he was in there, he replaced the serpentine belt for about $30.00. So actually it could have been the idler pulley, but just to be safe he changed the serpentine belt anyway. What ever the problem actually was, it never made a noise after. All is fine now, but Kia diagnosed it over the phone as the serpentine belt and was gonna charge close to $200.00 as I remember. Hope this helps.
Sue -
mickeyrom Posts: 936This might be too technical a question,but does that idler have bearings or a bushing? I also would like to ask your husband how difficult it was to change that belt without having a lift.
BTW my KIA is the 2006.5 model with the 4 cylinder engine.Is that the same as yours? Mine has over 31,000 miles on it.
Of course,I do appreciate the reply.Thank you very much. -
aruba531 Posts: 11My Kia Optima is 2007 4 cyl 2.4l. He said it wasn't easy. My husband is a mechanic and he said it was a real challenge. Evidently you need a correct wrench for the tension pulley some special wrench. He didn't buy one and he doesn't know the price. But evidently you can buy one. He made one himself. This is how he did it. It's a real pain to do. He took a regular wrench, cut it in half. (guess it was too long) Grounded it down to an 1/8" wide, then welded it to a round bar 3/8" thick that needed to be 1 and 1/2 feet long. All this because he needed to work from above and make it fit between the pulley and the fender well. He also said he needed to make bends in the 1 and 1/2" bar to clear the altinator. He said it was real hard to get to and suggests you either buy this so called special tool or pay kia. For us it was a matter of principal. We didn't want to pay kia for something that in my opinion shouldn't have died so quickly!
Sue -
iluvmysephia1 Posts: 5,716it's a service in which they clean our your car's engine's fuel injector's. Blasts out any gunk and junk that may have accumulated in there. Improves performance and fuel economy. Pretty good idea to have done.
Our '08 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS is soon to get it's 45,000 mile service and if the dealer's package doesn't include this I am thinking I'll have them add this fuel injector service to the rest of the maintenance package for us.2011 Kia Soul Sport 5-speed
backy Twin CitiesPosts: 18,787I have read that with today's injector-cleaning gasolines, a separate injector cleaning service is not required, and can actually damage the car e.g. O2 sensors. I used to use fuel injector cleaner but stopped when I heard that. I've never had any problems with injectors in over 20 years of owning fuel-injected cars.


text:
American Internet service providers (ISPs) are fond of flashing graphs like the one to the left because they're a great visual aid when you're trying to argue in favor of bandwidth caps. Look, if you want to stream Netflix from the moment you get off work until you pass out like some gross little bandwidth piggy, you're going to have to pay for it. We can't just keep giving you the internet for free. If we don't charge more, we go out of business and no internet for you! But TechCrunch pointed us towards this post from tech columnist and author Robert X. Cringely giving lie to the notion that without caps ISPs will go out of business.Even Mr. Cringely's mom isn't buying it:
"Most of the press coverage of this issue comes down on the side of consumers but lately the ISP publicity machine has been revved-up and we're being told that bandwidth caps are necessary, even inevitable. This is, as my 87 year-old Mom would say, BS." Read More


text:
Reviewed Turkey Enchiladas with Fire-Roasted Tomatillos
Jan 31, 2012 in Food Network Community Toolbox on FoodNetwork.com
"I also made this the day I saw this episode. I was really concerned it would be way too hot for me, but I seeded the jalapenos and I actually couldn't pick up much heat at all. In the future, I might try adding three seeded jalapenos and see if that brings it up to a little kick, but not too hot. I also felt like the juice of two limes was a litt..."


text:
Some of the Alfred Kinsey studies and the conclusions he came up with probably had a detrimental effect on some people. I wonder how parents must have felt when they heard that if their children delayed marriage and sex, that they would have psychological problems.
His thoughts on homosexuality and pedophilia alarmed some parents, too. He was pretty blunt with his beliefs, but I don't think he could back them up with scientific studies, like he did in his field research with the more predictable behavior of the subjects in his animal studies.


text:
1200 Stirling Road
Dania Beach, FL 33004
(954) 926-5840
whiteSPACE is a versatile event, exhibition, meeting and studio space bringing style and affordability to a centralized South Florida location. With flexibility and east of use as the focus; all white finishes were chosen for the raw space, offering a clean, modern aesthetic when left as-is, or acting as a blank canvas that can be easily transformed to meet the needs of any client. Divisible anywhere fro under 1,000 sq ft to over 7,000 sq ft and with over 700 available parking spaces whiteSPACE was designed to accommodate a range of groups looking for the perfect marketing location or event venue.
600 SW 3rd St
Pompano beach, FL 33060
(954) 806-2993
The Marie Green Forum is located in the center of broward County, conveniently located near the airport and major highway and less than 5 minutes from the famous white, sandy Beach on the Atlantic Ocean and on Florida's Intra-Coastal Waterway. Nearby area attractions include Fort Lauderdale International Airport, Port Everglades (Cruise Port), Fort Lauderdale Convention Center, International Swimming Hall of Fame, Jungle Queen River Boat Cruises, The Galleria Mall, Performing Arts Center, Swap Shop, Stadium for Miami Dolphins & Marlins, Sawgrass Mills and more. The Forum features over 10 rooms for all purposes from Wedding venues to corporate training seminars for up to 400 people.
251 Sunrise Avenue
Palm Beach, FL 33480
(561) 832-4300
Offering age-old tradition and timeless recipes that have been passed down through the family, Capri Blu, now in Palm Beach will successfully combines cuisine and atmosphere to create a dining experience that won't soon be forgotten. Few restaurants put such a wonderful emphasis on personal service as Capri Blu. Every dish is authentically prepared, the result being a pure and delicious Italian masterpiece. The wine cellar room is a beautiful entertaining space for family and social celebrations, benefits and corporate events with a large bar, piano, private entrance plus seating up to 50 guests. Or our main room with space up to 120 guests
2223 Palm Beach Lakes Blvd, Suite 101
West Palm Beach, FL 33409
(561) 444-7014
Bring your dream wedding to life in beautiful West Palm Beach! Our facility offers 2 spaces that can accommodate up to 500, a stainless steel kitchenette, private restrooms and state-of-the-art audio and video capabilities. Along with our wide range of amenities, there are no restrictions on your catering, entertainment or other vendor choices. We'll work with you to ensure every detail is executed professionally and create an unforgettable wedding. Tables and chairs are always included with your booking!
8985 Tamiami Trail N.
Naples, FL 34108
(239) 598-2424
Just off Fleming's main dining area are stylish private dining rooms that can accommodate most every function. Fleming's Private Dining Director, Chef Partner, and Wine Manager will work as a team to arrange all the necessary details for a festive event worthy of your special ocasion.
11515 Bonita Beach Rd SE Ste 101
Bonita Springs, FL 34135
(239) 676-0785
Conveniently located off I-75 at the Lee/Collier line in beautiful Bonita Springs, Florida, the Southwest Florida Performing Arts Center provides the perfect venue for staging your next event. Our state-of-the-art, world-class venue provides everything you need and more, and all at surprisingly affordable rates!
12777 SW 280th St
Homestead, FL 33032
(305) 258-1209
12376 Quail Roost Dr
Miami, FL 33177
(305) 252-2556
11740 SW 88th St
Miami, FL 33186
(305) 596-5973
12725 SW 122nd Ave
Miami, FL 33186
(305) 251-5000
11740 SW 88th St
Miami, FL 33186
(305) 596-5973
13758 SW 84th St
Miami, FL 33183
(305) 385-3644
12851 SW 42nd St # 123
Miami, FL 33175
(305) 227-9555
2500 SW 107th Ave
Miami, FL 33165
(305) 226-3799
12260 SW 8th St # 205
Miami, FL 33184
(305) 225-4255
600 SW 92nd Ave
Miami, FL 33174
(305) 554-8384
600 SW 92nd Ave
Miami, FL 33174
(305) 261-2001
155 SW 107th Ave
Miami, FL 33174
(305) 228-1500
10920 W Flagler St # 201
Miami, FL 33174
(305) 222-8699
8650 Bird Rd
Miami, FL 33155
(305) 553-8383