text: What you likely already know is that later this year, Vince Vaughn will star in "Delivery Man," his latest mix of comedy of drama that co-stars Chris Pratt, Cobie Smulders and more. What you might not know is that the movie is a remake, based on the 2011 smash hit Quebecois film "Starbuck." But if y...Read More »


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December 21, 2014
LOS ANGELES (AP) - A 10-year-old girl was badly injured when she apparently fell off a Southern California cliff.
Los Angeles fire officials say the girl was with her family on Saturday when she fell about 15 to 20 feet down the cliff at Point Fermin Park in San Pedro. Rescuers were able to reach the girl and she was taken to a hospital where she's listed in critical condition with head injuries.
It wasn't known why or how the girl fell.
The Point Fermin cliffs, in Los Angeles' San Pedro neighborhood, have a history of fatal falls including the2007 death of University of Southern California kicker Mario Danelo.
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Playing Chess with a Radioactive Pawn: Edward Snowden
Imagine you're playing chess and one of your pawns is infected with some form of radiation. Each piece in its vicinity and any piece that defeats it becomes infected as well. What options do you have? What would you do? How can you limit its damage while still maintaining an overall defensive or offensive strategy? How would your initial strategy change with the introduction of this radioactive pawn?
This is the game of chess that is being played between the United States and Russia. Edward Snowden is that radioactive pawn (henceforth, he will be known as the superhero/villain RadioPawn).
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Ed Durham
I have been considering this case for a while now, and think I may have stumbled onto a stratigic error the US G'ovt made. Maybe we should have loosend the kill chain. Maybe we should have let him keep his passport, travel to some lefttist southamerican country and move into his beach house. Then send in a SEAL team to swim in from the sea and wrapped his traitor a&& up and bring him back to US soil before said southamerican country even knows he's gone. :) How's that for check mate?
You know what.... I'm beginning to think this guy is The Red Herring of all Red Herrings. Seriously.. you have all this awesome info.. spill it. Pics or Shenanigans! It's not like we are going to pocket nuke his ass. Of course we might just do it on general principle because he's boring us to tears. And then this most recent revelation by the asshole that initially interviewed him... Since when did this particular reporter that scooped the story become such a security expert that he can make these bold statements. STFU! http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2013/jul/15/glenn-greenwald-snowden-has-blueprints-nsa-surveil/
That is an awesome piece man. I like the abstract thinking for that flowing metaphor. If only more people were creative enough to write like that about actual issues. It is probs similar to how I think, that's why I like it. Ta dude, keep it up.(Y0
I know, but if they are going to call someone out..... Oh never mind I HATE POLITICS grrrrrrr why do they have to be greedy little evil bastards/bitches???? I want our first ever congress back to teach these idiots how the process is properly done....... Oh wait, they don't gone a flying shit how its done........ (Sigh)
He said what?!?!? Then IMHO they need to quit spying on us American citizens...... He's a flat out liar, but that's nothing new.......


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Tuscan rider
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
What you do now, is to adjust the screw according to the throttle wire.
That is no good, I think.
Here is what I would have done; I air it here and we'll see how it flies:
- "Release" both throttle bodies (both sides).
- Release the throttle cable on the left side (where you have been screwed, so to speak).
- Using my photo, and a flash light as I do, look down into both right and left. At this point, both magic screws should be resting on their studs. That is why you need to remove the cable on the left; you want it freely to go "all the way down".
- Adjust the screw on the left side, which will push on the stud and open or close the throttle itself. Now, by comparing, you should be able to get it "close", at least. Making sure, obviously, that the stud touches on the right side, as well.
- WHen you get as close as you can, attach the wire again on the left side. There should be 1mm of play in that wire! That is, only when the wire haS been pulled 1mm should the screw loose contact with the stud.
You are, I am sorry to say, placing yourself at a disadvantage by not having the pleasure of looking forward to a Gin Martini after work.
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Midwest
Oddometer: 990
A gin martini is starting to sound very tempting!
I don't think I adjusted the screw according to the wire because there was a bit of slack in the wire even before I installed the new stud. What I'm saying is that I think the throttle was at it's furthest possible fully closed point and then the cable was adjusted to add some play, or is this not physically possible. When I adjusted the screw I think it just added a very small amount of more play on the wire and opened the throttle slightly of course.
The clicking noise from the left side TB did decrease slightly as well.
Since my last post I did discover that I was not so lucky with the big o-ring this time and a very small portion of it did get pinched out between the intake tube and the TB. Could this small problem have much of an effect overall? If so I will have to order one and wait before conducting any more "experiments."
Jazz62 screwed with this post 04-15-2012 at 02:40 AM
I've Been Resigned
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 15,738
Some time back I wrote up a how-to on resetting the throttle stop screws if they were ever messed with. In your case the same thing has happened, more or less in sort of a reverse way.
As an alternative approach, one way to go about this is to use the 'good' TB as a reference and then balance the 'repaired' TB to it.
It would mean messing with the throttle stop screw on the 'repaired' TB to match the same air flow as the 'stock' TB. This also assumes that the air bypass screws are identical in terms of air flow.
This is the 1st approach I'd take, mostly because if it works it will the least involved and easiest to perform. It will require a manometer and clean air bypass screws and passage ways.
Something to consider anyway. Sorry if this has already been suggested, I just skimmed this thread
The hidden harmony is found with joy, while the obvious brings indifference.
The farther you enter into the Truth the deeper your conviction for truth must be.
There is understanding of the world precisely to the degree that there is understanding of the Self.
Collected Works of the WingMakers Volume 1 pg. 590
Tuscan rider
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
If this assumption holds, you should be able to build on that to get back to a reasonable situation.
First we look at the situation "at rest".
How to check 1?
Simple - unhook both wires (both sides). If you don't unhook them, this will bite you later because it is (very) hard to notice if the wire is being pulled as you turn the body around to see things.
Mkae your life simple: unhook both throttle wires.
How to check 2?
I know of no other method that to remove both throttles (to the extent that I have done in the photo you see above). Stick a flash light into the back and look down into the bore. Try the right side first. You should see a sliver of light, just as in my photo.
Then, turning to the left hand side, make the sliver as equal as you can - by turning the Sacret Screw in or out. Remember - the screw rests on the stud (!) and when you turn the Sacres Screw this will open of close the brass throttle.
If you turn the Sacres Screw all the way out, you should be able to see that the throttle closes too much. The Screw is there to push it open a tiny little bit.
Use your right hand side as a point of reference to understand just how much.
Convincing yourself the two sides are at equal position when at rest, it is time to attach the wires.
When connected, because of the 1mm slack, both sides should still be resting on the stud even with the throttles wires attached.
This is what I would have done to get into a known position from where to move forward.
However - for the time being you are working on the bike. Use Duct tape to seal the place where you have a potential leak and continue to work. When you have a glorious solution, you replace the O-ring on the final assembly.
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Midwest
Oddometer: 990
Okay, so I have my work cut out for me today - no riding
What about the missing paint marks on the TPS? Since it appears that the original owner has fucked this up too. I have not had the courage to look at the right side sacred screw yet, just having my first cup of coffee. Was up most of the night with our oldest dog who is in his final days. He's been fighting a brain tumor for several months.
To Live by piano62, on Flickr
So if the right side has been "screwed" too, just start from scratch, eh? Back both scared screws out so they are not touching the studs then screw them in till they both resemble your photo with the flashlight. I wonder if I can fabricate some kind of wire gauge to make sure both sides have the same exact opening. I take some small comfort that I have already done things that I was really afraid to do and the bike is still very rideable.
Jazz62 screwed with this post 04-15-2012 at 10:07 AM
Tuscan rider
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
It is easier to scale back, than to scale "up".
We'll just hold out breath while we wait.
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Midwest
Oddometer: 990
I'm going out to look at the right side now. So all joking aside, am I really completely screwed if the right side has been messed with? That would be heartbreaking.
Jazz62 screwed with this post 04-15-2012 at 12:23 PM
Ginger th wonder dog
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: The woods and mountains of Alabama
Oddometer: 9,598
If both TB's idle stop screws have been tampered with, here is how I would proceed;
1- Thoroughly clean both the TBs by removing them from the engine and giving them a good thorough spraying with carb cleaner. No specific brand...just plenty of it and remove the BBS from their respective ports and clean those ports thoroughly.
2- Grease the orings and reinstal the TBs insuring there are no vacuum leaks anywhere in the intake runners.
3- Turn the BBS to the seats and back them out 1 1/2 turns.
4- Instal a manometer to both TBs.
5- Start the engine and note the vacuum and RPM readings. Without touching the BBSs, adjust the idle RPM to 1150 RPM using both throttle stop screws to achieve correct idle RPM and equal vacuum readings.
6- Apply blue paint to the throttle stop screw threads.
7- Future adjustments for TB balance should employ only throttle cable adjustments and BBS adjustments. The throttle stop screws should never be disturbed.
Dutch fool
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Holland, land of tulips and wooden shoes
Oddometer: 765
And whilst proceeding according def's instructions, keep the TPS in the 350-380 mV range.
Peel back the rubber booth on that connector, shove a needle between the red/white wire and the seal and hook up a multimeter.
When you turn the 'sacred screw', the TPS reading will alter, so loosen the 2 screws holding the TPS and rotate to keep the reading in spec.
And sorry to hear about your dog, dog people here as well.
Geht net, gibbet net.
Man of Mystery
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Oddometer: 1,075
^^ hopefully these posts will help you get back on the road.
In a previous post I referred to a zero-zero procedure. While close, the one written for the R1100 doesn't quite apply, as the R1100 and R1150GS have different motronic systems. I apologize and stand corrected.
This old thread might be helpful...http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53667
But it seems to me you should check the voltage of the TPS at idle since it has been monkeyed with....
Wildlife Biologist for Hire!
Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Midwest
Oddometer: 990
Geeze, I feel so in over my head. Had I never bought and tried to use Grok's Harmonizer I would not be in the boat I now find myself in. She was a little lumpy at idle but ran great, ride it, smile, repeat - end of story.
Conversely, Grok's Harmonizer has a "gauge mode" and I'm wondering if I can use this mode to get the right and left side TB to the same baseline setting, using the throttle stop screws to achieve even vacuum and proper idle. To my feeble non-mechanical brain I wonder if this would be easier than using Tagesk's method of matching to the sliver of light as in his photo.
Here is some of the info from Grok's Harmonizer thread:
"Gauge mode is a heavily damped vacuum gauge, intended to measure vacuum on intakes that support one or two cylinders. Only one Harmonizer port is used. The other is left unconnected. A left-zero meter representation is displayed along with a numeric representation in the range of 0.00-29.00 inHg.
Gauge mode can be used to adjust idle speed with the tach function and mixture (carburetor) with the tach and/or gauge function. Gauge mode can also a be a powerful diagnostic tool.
In Gauge mode, if you use the yellow port, the tach is calibrated for 4-stroke motors, 1 cylinder/intake.
In Gauge mode if you use the red port, the tach is calibrated for 4-stroke motors, 2 cylinders/intake.
As in Balancer mode, for 2-strokes in Gauge mode you must divide the tach readings in half."
Does this sound like it could work to achieve a "healthy" baseline setting for the throttle stop screws? I've cleaned the BBS and passages already. When I installed the new cam-chain tensioner I took notice that the left side TB bore and butterfly looked very clean.
I've Been Resigned
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 15,738
As I stated I wrote up a how-to for situations such as this. It isn't all that hard but it does require getting your head around what is going on and uses a DVM and the TPS to re-establish the proper amount of butterfly opening.
Also if it were me I'd use metal based epoxy as in JB weld, not red thread locker to 'cement' that button back in place.
AND there is a simpler method I heard about and now use for setting the throttle stop screws. In fact I first heard about it from the team that came up with the zero=zero method on the older 1100's
It works equally as well for the 1150's.
The hidden harmony is found with joy, while the obvious brings indifference.
The farther you enter into the Truth the deeper your conviction for truth must be.
There is understanding of the world precisely to the degree that there is understanding of the Self.
Collected Works of the WingMakers Volume 1 pg. 590
Tuscan rider
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Tuscany, Italy
Oddometer: 3,199
When you are there, your bike will run as well (or bad) as it did
Then you do as Def suggests; set the two brass screws equal and the a manometer to adjust perfect by using the Sacred Screws.
To keep costs down, you obviously build your own meter from four meters of clear plastic tube nailed on a board and one liter of (old) oil.
Using a home-built meter and knowing that it is perfectly calibrated by means of gravity is (almost) as nice as looking forward to a generous serving of gin after Mission Completed.
You'll be fine!
And just imagine firt time you pull it all the way to the red line, and there are no vibrations!
Not that we're against things that vibrate, but we're talking BMW here.
'02 R1150GS - Adds life
My Riding in Tuscany-thread is here.
Renting out motorbikes in Toscana, Italy
Proud contributor to Wisdom and GSpot FAQ and European Ride Report Index.
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: S. W. Mssouri
Oddometer: 5,869
I uew the aquarium hose manometer, to damp it more I put some cotton in the line right next to the end. I vary the amount of cotton to fit your preference. Easy to reach at the end of the hose. Both of the balls of cotton mine has are about the size of a Q-tip. Makes setting more precise.
Mine takes a few seconds to stablize. My bike would suck up the transmission fluid into the intake if the balance was off too far. Like when i have a brain fart and turn the wrong way
Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Midwest
Oddometer: 990
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"The perch swallows the grub-worm, the pickerel swallows the perch, and the fisherman swallows the pickerel; and so all the chinks in the scale of being are filled."
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"Do let him read the papers. But not while you accusingly tiptoe around the room, or perch much like a silent bird of prey on the edge of your most uncomfortable chair. (He will read them anyway, and he should read them, so let him choose his own good time.) Don't make a big exit. Just go. But kiss him quickly, before you go, otherwise he might think you are angry; he is used to suspecting he is doing something wrong."
"Be as a bird perched on a frail branch that she feels bending beneath her, still she sings away all the same, knowing she has wings."


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What does WBDG stand for?
What does WBDG mean? This page is about the various possible meanings of the acronym, abbreviation, shorthand or slang term: WBDG.
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Just days after the Explorer Edition of Google's first wearable device made its way onto the US Play Store, the Glass development team is starting to roll out yet another in a long history of updates. This time we're looking at XE21.0, which appears to be on the smaller side based on the changelog. Only two noteworthy details made it onto the list: faster updates for Google Now cards and accident indicators during Navigation, provided by Waze.
One complaint many Glass users have voiced since the Explorer Program began is that Glass has very limited contact management capabilities. Users could add contacts in the MyGlass interface, but those manually added contacts were the only ones a user could correspond with using Google's eye-mounted computer.
The Glass team is fixing that - and a number of other things - in an update to XE20.1, announced today. The update will allow Glass to see all a user's contacts, with starred contacts showing up for quick voice access.
Google Glass, having recently received an update to version XE17.31, is making the leap straight up to version 18.1. The update will coincide with an update to the MyGlass app (coming "later this week," with the iOS app getting an update at an undisclosed time), and brings a few nifty new features.
First up, the MyGlass app for Android - when explorers take a photo through Glass, that photo will be instantly shared to the MyGlass app, where users can add filters or otherwise edit the photos before sharing them with the world.
HTC, keeping up with its recent pattern of speedy source release, has dropped official ICS kernel source code for a heaping handful of devices, perhaps most notably the One V, a member of HTC's new One line which hasn't yet debuted in many countries.
Other devices include the US variant of the Vivid and several iterations of the Sensation, with the Desire HD and myTouch 4G Slide's Gingerbread (2.3) kernel source also being dropped.
HTC's UK Facebook page was updated last night with information regarding just which HTC handsets would be in the "first wave" of phones to receive an update to Android 4.0 Ice Cream Sandwich in early 2012. While the post was made on HTC's UK Facebook, the list contains a number of US-only devices. Those handsets are asterisked to indicate US-only availability (the Rezound, EVO Design, and Amaze). The others on the list include the Sensation (plus XL and XE versions), the Vivid, and the EVO 3D.
HTC has officially announced the previously-rumored update to the Sensation, dubbed the XE. We heard about it a few weeks ago as the "Special Edition" (or SE), and it looks like the leaked details were spot-on, right down to the Beats Audio integrations.
The press release for the XE touts it provides "the ultimate audio experience." When using the included Beats earbuds (pictured), the phone will switch to a special sound profile, "delivering audio tracks tuned specifically for the headphones."
Other specs of the XE:
- 1.5GHz dual-core CPU
- 4.3" qHD SLCD
- 8MP rear camera, VGA front
- 1080p vidoe recording
- microSD card (8GB or 16GB) in-box
The phone is scheduled to launch in Europe, the Middle East, Asia, and Asia Pacific later this month.


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Microsoft Reacts But Did It Get Windows 8.1 Right?
For Windows users of all kinds, the Windows "Blue" 8.1 update has been long-awaited. Those who've been using the base OS since launch have no doubt been anticipating some of the enhancements that are coming, while many others have been waiting patiently to see if the update manages to right enough wrongs to help persuade them to make the move. Has Microsoft succeeded in either of these cases? That's what we hope to find out.
At the moment, Windows 8.1 is available only as a preview, and if you are looking to give it a try, there are a couple of things to be aware of. The most important is the fact that once you upgrade, you can't easily downgrade - so you may wish to try the update in a virtual machine or on a test machine if possible. In addition, your current product keys will not work, so you'll effectively be turning your activated OS into an evaluation (it's assumed that once 8.1 goes final, we'll be able to update using our original keys).
Currently, there are two ways to install Windows 8.1. Microsoft's recommended method is to download an update, install it, reboot, and then hit-up the app store within the Start Screen. The alternative route is to download the ISO image, which you can either burn to a DVD or create a bootable thumb drive with.
If you're installing the Windows 8.1 Preview as a stand-alone install, you can do so as normal. If you're upgrading an OS already in place, you'll want to make sure that you choose the "Keep Windows settings, personal files, and apps" option inside of the installer (as seen above). This will assure that every single application you have installed will remain installed after upgrading, and your personal documents will be left intact. That said, select applications may not immediately work after the upgrade. VMware was a sticking-point for me, but a simple reinstall fixed the problems I encountered. Our beloved managing editor Marco also encountered a couple of strange issues; the main one being that the default high DPI setting on a Kabini-based notebook strangely affected text and images in some apps. Dropping the slider back to normal resolved the issues, though.
So, just be warned - upgrading may not be a totally straightforward process for everyone. With that said, let's take a look at some of the best features or enhancements that Windows 8.1 brings to the table, and then evaluate whether or not it's enough to get the OS on the track Microsoft's hoping for.
The New Start Screen
When Microsoft first introduced the Start Screen with Windows 8, it had expected its users to spend a great deal of time there. On tablets, this is especially the case. It makes sense, then, that the company took some strides to make the interface attractive, and for the most part, it did a great job. There were a couple of sticking points for a lot of people, however, such as the very limited customization and the somewhat bland way that desktop applications are showcased.
With 8.1, Microsoft takes care of most of those complaints. The level of customization still isn't what I'd consider to be "great", but there's no denying that some nice improvements have been made here.
Originally, desktop applications in the Start Screen would all share the same tile look - a solid color to match the background, and then the application icon centered inside. With 8.1, Microsoft decided to color these tiles based on the dominant color in the application icon. Adobe Photoshop's tile is tinted blue, for example; Nero, red; uTorrent, green; Steam, grey, and so forth. Whether or not you prefer this over the old design is going to depend on your personal taste. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that you're able to revert back to the old style - a bit of a downer if you happened to prefer it.
Perhaps more so than the colored tiles, one of the most obvious changes seen in the shot above is that the desktop wallpaper sits behind the tiles rather than one of the vectorized wallpapers any Windows 8 user has become used to. This is an option I've wanted ever since I began using Windows 8, so I'm glad to see it make its way into 8.1. However, there is yet another unfortunate thing about this: you cannot choose a specific wallpaper for this screen; it has to be the one on your desktop. This is a weird move, since users can easily customize their Lock Screen with a specific wallpaper. We suspect Microsoft has done this to make it less jarring when launching the Start screen from desktop mode.
Enhancing the Start Screen flexibility further, Microsoft has introduced two additional tile sizes to help you perfect your layout and organization. As seen in the shot above, standard tiles can be cut down to 1/4th of their original size, while select tiles can be exploded from "wide" to "large", such as the Desktop. Not all tiles can be resized to the large format, but many from the Store can be.
To customize the Start Screen in the base OS, you'd hit-up the "Settings" option in the Charms bar and deal with it there. In 8.1, the location has moved; now, you need to click on "Personalize" in the Charms bar instead of "Settings", which will slide this out from the right side:
This is pretty self-explanatory overall, but anyone who's customized Windows 8 in the past is likely to notice some immediate differences. Rather than be limited to 10 or so base colors with no flexibility beyond that, you can now choose between 18 base colors and then 18 tones inside of each. This goes not only for the base color, but the accent color as well. While it'd be nice (and it would be possible) to choose from "millions" of color combinations here, it can be assumed that Microsoft is keeping it simple on purpose so that tablet users won't have difficulty in fine-tuning a specific color. Plus - this is a major improvement nonetheless.
The above is an example of another feature that I wanted with the stock OS: easier group naming. Any set of tiles can be named simply by right-clicking a blank area in the Start Screen and clicking "Customize". While all of my personal tile sets come in groups of two, you could break them apart into rows of one and name each individual group just the same. The end result, as seen with the full Start Screen shot in this article, clearly shows what sort of improvement this simple addition has made.
On Android and iOS, many of us like to create folders and toss a bunch of icons into each. With 8.1, Microsoft still hasn't given Windows users the same option. In some ways, it's a little bizarre, but in others, it's fine. Many of us have dozens of apps crowding up our smartphones and tablets, for example, while on Windows, that's not likely to be the case. Plus, because of the Start Screen's design, you're already able to store many more icons - ahem, tiles - to the Start Screen than you can to your Android or iOS device.
That doesn't quite wrap-up the Start Screen improvements yet. Going to the "All Apps" screen, to me, used to be a bit of a pain. You had to right-click the Start Screen and then click on the "All Apps" button in the bottom-right corner. Now, you can simply click an arrow that sits underneath the left-most tileset, as seen in the shot above. Much better.
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It's ok. The start button is dumb, and they took away the "all apps" function when you right click on the metro menu.
As mentioned in the article, that ability was replaced with a circled arrow that sits below the first row of tiles (it takes about a second to appear after entering the Start Screen). If you happen to prefer the All Apps view, you can make it so that it displays by default when you enter the Start Screen (it's in the same options area as the Boot to Desktop option on page 2).
its OK I guess but 8.1 does still have windows 8. Just to let you know I have been a beta tester for Microsoft Windows since prior to the release of Windows 95. I have used windows 8 on the pretrial beta and disliked it so much I did not even ask to be on the beta or test it even during the free test. I have also built a couple of pc's since windows 8 came out and bout one for someone in which the only choices were Vista and 8.0 and I chose Vista for my mother even just so she did not have to deal with 8.0. I ordered parts for a new PC yesterday because one of my families pcs is dieing and refuse to put windows 8 on it. So I will just keep using 7 until 9 comes out most likely just so I don't have to deal with 8!
Sorry, but the modern UI is not going away. It will be present in Windows 9. This is Microsoft's strategy.
Some people aren't smart enough to use the new interface, quite sad, but as you said the less capable people can use outdated stuff like Windows 7.
I have used 8 for a while now, and liked it's improvements so much I actually convinced the right people to get it installed in my work computer. Zero problems with all my programs, including a few CAD programs and Matlab, as well as games (still haven't tested the old Windows 98 era ones though) and multimedia programs.
Some people aren't stupid enough to use the new interface, quite understandable, but as you said the more capable people can use stuff like Windows 7 that actually allows them to use their PCs the way THEY want to rather than a bastardized version of iOS or android.
There. Fixed it for you.
I have one issue. The preview is kind of buggy on my device (asus vivotab), but I can deal with it and fix most of them. However when I search for the control panel, the utterly useless modern ui pc settings that hides everything I need access to is the first choice. This is super annoying. I got around it by typing panel. But pc settings does not contain the word control, so it should never, ever pop up in that circumstance, and if it does, definitely not the first choice.
I simply don't want Modern UI. I had enough qualms about giving up XP for 7, but I refuse to "upgrade" to 8 or 8.1. If they keep pushing they're going to undermine their entire business model. They're killing off their stable business foundation in the hopes that they can succeed in a gadget market, even though they've always failed when they tried in the past. And a Start Button isn't what people wanted - they wanted a Start Menu. If I wanted an app store I would buy a Mac. I want a computer and not a toy.
People actually wanted a broken UI item from the early 90s that was already outdated when XP came out?
Hell, most people never open the start menu at all! All they do is clutter their desktop with application shortcuts and files because it actually is faster than clicking five times to open the program you want.
Start screen is hands down faster than start menu for everything except restarting, and since 8 is many times more stable than XP you'll practically never need to do it manually. With 8.1 and the charms based search (as opposed to only start screen, it'll be even faster than start menu searching.
Why so much hate on Windows 8? Win ME truly was a piece of crap back in its days! Windows 8 is not perfect and it takes a while getting used to but it is not a bad O.S. It has served me well during my months of beta test and since it was released. Needless to say: if you do not like it, use Win 7 instead.
Why? Because MS arbitrarily took away something that worked perfectly and replaced it with a crippled iOS-like red-headed stepchild of a UI that makes the most simple things more difficult and slow.
It WASN'T what people wanted and even with 8.1 it STILL isn't.
Its a phone and tablet OS and does that job brilliantly, but its a total fail on a desktop PC and greatly gimps productivity unless you only like using 1 application at a time. Like one of the commenters above I've been a tester of MS stuff for many years (not quite as long though) and 8 is the only OS that I uninstalled after only a couple of days after finding it was almost completely unusable as a desktop OS.
Enterprise users will avoid it like the plague and stay on 7 till MS fixes this disaster or they move to mac or linux (both preferable to how MS has treated us with 8).
I want a windows os not a tablet os on my pc
Ill admit some people are too downright dumb to figure out the new UI, and microsoft not giving the option to use 7 style ui without a 3rd party app is downright retarded, but for most of us that hate the new ui of windows 8 its not because we are dumb or cant figure it out, its mostly because the majority of us DONT HAVE TOUCHSCREENS, most of us use a mouse and keybord, and the new ui of 8 is just mostly a hinderence for mouse and keybord usage especially while multi tasking. allthough with the 7 shell installed from your app of preference, 8 is a all in all solid OS and the "ms office" style ribbon on explorer is a welcome addition, just my 2 cents.
Ill admit some people are too downright dumb to figure out the new UI, and microsoft not giving the option to use 7 style ui without a 3rd party app is downright retarded, but for most of us that hate the new ui of windows 8 its not because we are dumb or cant figure it out, its mostly because the majority of us DONT HAVE TOUCHSCREENS, most of us use a mouse and keybord, and the new ui of 8 is just mostly a hinderence for mouse and keybord usage especially while multi tasking. allthough with the 7 shell installed from your app of preference, 8 is a all in all solid OS and the "ms office" style ribbon on explorer is a welcome addition, just my 2 cents.
I will Improve. It will improve and be useful. Remember, it is Microsoft, Microsoft give tools so we can create.
Windows 8 is made for mobile PC oriented devices. I can't see anyone using it as a OS for their PC.
Being an old 95,98 and XP fan, I did upgrade my newest PC to Windows 8. It took me a little while to figure out the quirks since I skipped Vista and Windows 7. After using it for a few days, the features I view as awkward are really no more annoying than learning how to use any app, program or OS. I really don't see that much of a change between 8.0 and 8.1 to warrant an upgrade. (at least until the real version comes out) I have recently installed Windows 7 on another one of my computers. It is closer to the way XP in appearance and am somewhat happy with the interface. But all in all, between Windows 7 and Windows 8, there are only a few differences that make it seem like it's more about preference and personal choice than functionality of the software. I may upgrade to 8.1 in the future just to keep up to date on the workings of the OS. But for now, my plans are to wait to see what Microsoft has in mind with Windows 9 when it eventually comes out.
I'm fine with 8.1 for the only reason I upgraded, "Go to Desktop" option for startup. Don't use Metro, can find everything needed via Explorer or run dialong / command prompt. I think going from 7 to 8 is like going from Firefox to Chrome- first option is certainly fine and very usable, but the few little extra tweaks and boosts from the latter option are nice.
I realize that I'll probably never like the start screen, and a lot of the elegance 7 has brought, I'm willing to try it now. With greater customization and the system being almost identical except for the start screen, I'll be able to adapt. Even still, I think I would cave and download a mod to add back the start menu, even though that should be a built in option.
I love this GUI on a phone and tablet, but I am indifferent on the PC. I need to get some more time there. I think it is great for the way PC's are going though. With the latptop/netbooks/tablets taking over. We keep shrinking and wanting more hands on interaction and this GUI, does that really well, IMO.
I really do not like Windows 8. I've tried to use it and I do not find it user friendly whatsoever. If Microsoft wanted to hit it big they should do something really cool like a Windows XP 2014 Edition, providing the latest Direct X, 64 bit capabilities, things like that. But we all know that will never happen. >_<
Was I the only one that had issues with 8.1? My Lenovo Y400 laptop came with Windows 8 pro. It had no issues whatsoever. After I installed 8.1 preview, the start up time increased 10 fold, i couldn't install programs or drivers, my USB ports stopped responding after the laptop was on for 5 minutes, and the laptop could not shutdown any longer unless I hold down the power button...I'll wait for the full version...but even then, I have my Win8 customized to where I like it, even with StartIsBack.
Just to throw my .02 into this. 8.1 was a band aid on a wound that needed stiches, while not fatal it doesn't quite cover it and what it does cover is it did so badly. The only thing Windows got right with 8.1 was boot to desktop, the start menu is still far from what it should be. I was looking for just some basic functionality and it didn't even come close.
Having said that I got Windows 8 Pro on my laptop ( I actually own 3 licenses) and use Stardock to make it perfect after a couple more tweaks to just boot into Windows and have it act the way I feel I have gotten used to and want to.


text:
final Malibu issue; no publication date in comic; indexed date from copyright notice
inside front cover credits/indicia page
Page count includes title page. Continued from #38. Cameo spoof: Peter Azland [Dr. Who spoof]
sets up storylines for ZETRAMAN:Revival (Antarctic Press, 1993 series) and Ninja High School (Antarctic Press, 1994 series). Mazinger Z spoof; Sun Vulcan spoof; Captain Harlock spoof
B&W house ad for NINJA HIGH SCHOOL FEATURING SPEED RACER; inside back cover B&W house ad for Robotech II: The Sentinels


text:
I did my second workout with the Speed Slimming Sculpt (what an awkward name). This time I found it easier to follow and felt like I got a pretty good workout. It seemed that the lunges and dips are easier to do with good form with the Wave than normal ones. This morning I could really feel it in my thighs and calves. So far I've done SSS twice, Rock it off Express once and the Wave abs once. I still haven't tried the Wave Buns Express.
One thing I like about these videos is that they are shorter than my other Firm videos, and have the express version for an even shorter workout. Sometimes I only want to work 20 or 30 minutes and I hate to do half a video then try to pick up in the middle or skip finishing it.
Overall its pretty fun and a good lower body workout. I still feel I need other workouts for upper body, though.
Well, I had a big trip last week with five days of challenge to eating and working out. This was an annual gathering with a group of friends, and good food is always a part of our activities.
I'm pretty pleased with how I did. We ate out once most days, and made sandwiches for lunch or dinner to balance the meal out. Thursday we were on the run all day and ate out twice, but I went for healthier choices. I was particularly pleased that I managed to get in a little workout each day. Thursday morning I walked laps around the hotel building and spent a few minutes on the elliptical in their gym � haven't used one of those in ages, pure torture). One of my friends saw me walking and volunteered to join me, so Friday and Saturday we got out early (6:45) and walked a couple of miles before we went off to our activities. Sunday we were getting ready to leave, so I only got in a few laps around the building, but it still helped. Goal accomplished, I got home at the same weight I left at.
But I got home exhausted and the heat here hasn't helped. Monday and Tuesday I got in light workouts and ate okay, though not as well as I should have. Wednesday everything caught up with me, not enough sleep, the heat, etc. I got in a warmup and short walk, but when I started my video I couldn't do it. Then all day I was tired and kept eating hoping for energy � didn't work. I still tracked my foods and decided to write it off as a bad day, got to bed early and felt much better yesterday. I got in a good workout, had no problem sticking to my meal plan and weighed in this morning down two pounds. So maybe my bad day didn't hurt.
I've actually been wondering if I'm eating too low in the calorie range. I've been working out for an hour or more most days, and trying to keep the calories low. Maybe I do need to go higher every few days just so my body doesn't try to hang on to every ounce of fat. My official weigh in is Sunday, so I guess I'll see then.
Tuesday my new Wave from The Firm arrived. It was my reward to myself for a really good month in May of eating well and working out steadily. I like to reward myself with things that make my workouts more interesting/fun.
Of course, I had to do the 10 minute demo workout as soon as I unpacked it and I liked the moves. Wednesday I did the Speed Slimming Sculpt and Thursday I did Rock it Off Express.
I want to be in love with this program, but at the moment I'm in like. Here's the good and the bad.
Good, I like the Wave itself. It's sturdy, easy to move around and comfortable to work on � I work out barefoot. The rocking motion is a lot of fun.
The workouts are good lower body workouts and I could feel them in my core. I woke up Thursday morning with my legs pleasantly sore, especially on the outer calves. The pace of the workout was good, I was pushed to keep up with it being my first run through, and it definitely got the heart rate going. The instructors were very good with reminding people about safely using the Wave. They reminded you to step in the center, balance, and so on with each change.
There is a pretty good ab routine in both, though some of the moves were awkward since it was my first time through.
The not-so-good. The warm-ups on both were ridiculous. Two steps in one pattern, two steps in another, and so on, then back to the first. They didn't explain all the moves in the warm-up, just assumed you knew them. And in Rock it Off, they didn't even take time to tell you how to set up the Wave, just jumped right into the warm-up.
My biggest annoyance was that they didn't allow enough time to change the setup of the Wave. They may have a nice, open studio to work in and be able to just walk to the other side, but those of us working out at home have to move things forward and back, put down a mat for floor work, etc. I had to pause several times to rearrange things.
Good or bad, these two workouts are more cardio than strength training, especially Rock it Off. Speed Slimming has a pretty good section with weights. I used my lightest weights since it was my first time through, but moving up to heavier weights, you'll get a bit of workout. The Rock it Off Express had very little weight work, and, disappointingly, little use of the rocker side of the Wave, mostly used it as a step.
There are still two workouts, the Express Abs and Rock Solid Buns, that I haven't tried. They are on the schedule for this weekend.
My conclusion so far, this will be a good addition to my workouts that will add some variety and give a good cardio workout. I don't think the Wave by itself would be enough. I see myself continuing to use some of my old Firm workouts, such as Parts Upper Body and Body Sculpt, to get a serious upper body workout.
Not on my body, unfortunately! But since I've been working out and eating better, I've been feeling the urge to declutter my house. So, I just finished helping a nice lady load up about 50 pounds of old stereo speakers and components that have been taking up space forever. I love Freecycle, you can offer just about anything and there will be someone who wants it enough to come get it.
I also donated four big bags of clothing to my favorite thrift store Monday � half the stuff probably came from there originally. Over the past 10 years I went from size 12 to 8 or 6, then back up to 14 this winter. And during that time I went from a job that required a lot of business clothes to a more casual one to now working from home. Overflowing wasn't the word for my closet. So I got rid of the 14s (that much accomplished so far) and a lot of pants, skirts, tops and suits that just don't fit my life now, in all sizes. Now I have room in my closet for my shorts/skorts and capris, which are my summer uniform! There's still more (lots more) to go through, but it's great to get started.


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Cars > ChevEE's Garage
About ChevEE's Garage
My first car
1984 F150 with a 5.0 V8 (Mobey)
My dream car
What's in the drive way now... only with more goodies
- Driving song: Cake: "Going the distance"
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— Profile last updated: Mar 5, 2008
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TMT Automotive is an ACDelco automotive repair shop that has been running for over 20 years. Located in Bremen, Indiana, we are very close to South Bend and Mishawaka. We service all makes and models of cars. We also perform all kinds of autmotive service. Recently we decided to create a new...
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- Jun 3, 2007 at 6:46 pm
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SPI User Forums
SPI Product Specific Discussions
Top Coats
> Universal clear over Kirker/LDS
View Full Version :
Universal clear over Kirker/LDS
When shooting universal clear over Kirker enamel, should I use Kirker's Laser Dry (basemaker/flattener) or shoot the Kirker as a single stage before clearing?
Does Kirker have a clear they recommend? I have no clue about this stuff.
If not, as a safety factor you might look at an omni or even a demension clear for compatibility purposes.
That seems to contradict "Uses: This clear can be used on any job whether all-over or spot. This clear can also be sprayed
over anyone's base coat and over any activated single stage paint after four hours, although preferably wait over night. Because this clear buffs so well, it's an excellent
choice for custom paint jobs and motorcycle gas tanks." taken from your UC tech sheet.
The paint in question is activated which meets the criteria above and when I ordered the UC nothing I said (I don't remember the full conversation) seemed to raise any flags with your staff. So, is there a test I can do that would give results in a short time (lifting, solvent pop) or what?
It will work but you are going from one end of the quality scale to the other end and that scares me, not short term but long term, sometimes lower grade products will work better over certain things long term.
Yes it will work.
Either way you go, contact Kirker and find out how long you are allowed to wait before applying clear. You'll want to wait as long as possible before applying the clear.
If your base color is a metallic, do a test panel to see if the clear is going to move the metallic around. You'll need to adjust your technique if it does.
Most of us have discovered the hard way that just because a cheap base color can be made to work, it's not without the risk of problems, and that applies to all high tech clears, not just SPI.
Long story short, but when I bought the Kirker paints a couple of years ago I did so out of being poor and I couldn't find one negative review from an actual user. Sure, many post "it's crap", but none of those claim to have used it. Even today I can't find any harsh remarks from actual users - only armchair quarterbacks. Users state it's "OK" or better with most concerns being related to flowout and that fits what I'm doing. Nowadays, I'm not quite as poor but I can't stand the thought of wasting it. No metallics here. What are some potential problems having it as a basecoat sandwiched between spi Epoxy and UC? I can test for quick problems but what are some long term issues that could pop up? Many thanks for the discussion!
Understand your frustrations for finding info but shops don't use it and that is why the poor feedback, lot of the users never painted before using, is another problem.
Only person I know that uses it, was Jim Clark on here (the other Jimc, as he says)
He is an expert on the stuff, pm him, he will help you out.
The main problem I have had adapting slow drying low end base coats to function with new high solids clears is contraction or dieback of the clear due to solvents remaining in (or being re-absorbed out of)the clear by the base coat. To minimize this, allow plenty of dry time before clear. Using SPI reducer in the base coat (if possible) can help too, since this helps make the solvent blend of the base more compatible with the clear. Allowing plenty of flash time between every coat of base and between coats of clear also helps ensure a glossy finish.
Basically the point is to take your time, the longer, the better in most cases. The exception to this is products with a "recoat window," which is why it's important to get advice from the maker of the product as to maximum flash times.
In extreme cases, delamination can result from solvents being trapped under the finish. I'm sure Barry can add more to this aspect and others, I have not experienced delam with the products I am using.
Here's my experience.
First, don't use enamel, especially theirs.
Second, Never ever use "Lazer Dry" Never, ever.
I had a complete delamination useing that stuff,
redid it by the book, and it peeled off too.
took about 3 yrs both times.
(Even the place I bought it from admitted seeing
a lot of problems)
The first time, everyone said I didn't use it right,
So the second time I was very careful to follow directions,
same result, enamel pigment turned and then the clear peeled.
I painted my car I drive now with Kirker's urethane,
then cleared it with SPI Universal.
(waited overnight to clear it, no sanding involved)
It's been 4 yrs now and it still looks great, their
urethane is pretty good stuff. At least I know
it is with SPI clear on it. (LOL)
I also painted my boat and trailer with Kirker Urethane,
It's been real tough against scratches.
So go with the urethane if you can and avoid the enamels.
Here's an idea, if what you have is not urethane.
You could buy some of the Kirker clear that is specified for use on top of the product you have, apply it, then when it is cured enough, wet sand it and apply the SPI clear. Two clear sessions makes for an outstanding job in any case, and I believe this method would be safest and produce the highest quality. All the wait times between coats would still apply no matter the procedure.
Here's their tech sheets.
On the urethane, it says to not go more than 18 hrs
before top coating, after that it must be sanded first.
Going to soon mottled metallics for me.
3 hrs was the quickest I could get away with,
waiting overnight did best.:cool:
Here's an idea, if what you have is not urethane.
You could buy some of the Kirker clear that is specified for use on top of the product you have, apply it, then when it is cured enough, wet sand it and apply the SPI clear. Two clear sessions makes for an outstanding job in any case, and I believe this method would be safest and produce the highest quality. All the wait times between coats would still apply no matter the procedure.
Anyone object to this? I already have the Kirker clear, it's just that I heard so much good about SPI I decided to switch. This could save me some waste even if it's not the ideal solution.
Idea sounds safe to me.
I have given this a lot of thought and if me, here is how, I would do it.
Two coats of the K-clear, let set a couple of days and wet-sand, put outside for two full days, then wash with waterborne and let set 2-3 hours, then apply the SPI.
Lots of reasons I say this and there is only one thing I do want to point out.
It is a chemical fact, that the best clear in the world, can only do so much to protect a lower grade pigment, JC pointed this out on one of his jobs.
armchair quarterbacks ???? once again , a professional painter does not have to use a product to know if it is junk or not. duplicolor , por15 , kirker , cheap 2nd line paint . this is not hr.com. there are no wanabe's here posting advice. what will happen is the cheap kirker will fail and spi will get the blame.
So all Kirker paint will fail?
Surely you don't believe that.
Kirker has been selling paint for over 100 yrs
and it's used on thousands of cars every year.
How many have failed?
Shine, your level of respect just dropped a couple of points with me. The net is full of armchair quarterbacks. HR is one place, but I frequent MANY boards. To say even Rustoleum "will" fail is a stretch. Sure, the likelyhood is probably 98%, well, 99.9%, but the 2% room for error changes "will" to "might". Lastly, to even suggest I'd blame SPI for something I'm knowingly manipulating without having the first clue about how I roll, well, that just pisses me off. You've done better. I don't blame others for my mistakes.
Back to topic: Speaking of second lines, if I were to contact my local jobber (Martin Senior), what are their products that would work well sandwiched between SPI epoxy and UC? What do I need to know before walking in the door?
So all Kirker paint will fail?
How many have failed?
I've searched and searched... Yours makes 1, err, 2 (counting the second time)... There's just not too many complaining about it. Like anything, I'm sure there are many cases just unreported, but I can find bad news about ANYTHING on the net. I think Shine is having an off day.
i did not realize this site was going to turn into another hr.com. my bad for posting at all. i will not make that mistake again.
I have given this a lot of thought and if me, here is how, I would do it.
Two coats of the K-clear, let set a couple of days and wet-sand, put outside for two full days, then wash with waterborne and let set 2-3 hours, then apply the SPI.
Lots of reasons I say this and there is only one thing I do want to point out.
It is a chemical fact, that the best clear in the world, can only do so much to protect a lower grade pigment, JC pointed this out on one of his jobs.
I would like to add that it would be a fine idea to do a test panel along with this job, like a 12" square of metal, doing all the things to the metal as to the car. Then apply the SPI clear to the test panel first (don't do the vehicle yet), and observe it for a few hours. The reason I say this is because if the Kirker clear is slow to dry or crosslink, there could be an adverse reaction to being covered in clear again in such a relatively short time period. I'd say that the longer the Kirker paint is allowed to cure before re-clearing, the better. That actually applies to most paints too, when there is an unknown cure rate, not just Kirker. It would be less of a concern in the summertime, when you could rely on sunlight to pretty much bake the crap out of the coating pretty shortly.
P.S. Also, some older technology enamels actually rely on oxygen to cure, so if they are covered up too quickly, their cure rate may be permanently arrested. It might be helpful for you to post links to the product description sheets for all the materials you have in your possession.
It might be helpful for you to post links to the product description sheets for all the materials you have in your possession.
As long as I'm straying from mainstream products my plans are the same as yours - test panels. Good call. As for tech sheets, SPI is going under AND over and those sheets should be familiar enough (or I can post if needed). The only question is what's going between SPI. I have less Kirker left than I thought so I just may be finding another BC to use, hence, the question above about MS products. That jobber tries to be helpful, but he's not always accurate so I need to know what I need to know before I approach him.
The only line they have that suits my budget/needs is Crossfire, and it uses no activator in BC form. Is that anything worth even considering?
TEC/BASE is the only Martin Senour product worth considering.
Honestly, if you are considering an alternative base coat at this point, a higher quality product is really not much more in the big scheme of things, not to mention fewer headaches and a much improved probability of success. High quality base coats cover in fewer coats and can use SPI reducer. In many instances the more expensive base coat turns out to be more economical.
Have you priced Pro-Spray? Chad.S on here is a jobber for them. Do us all a favor and PM him before you buy any more paint!!!
P.S. Here's a link to Chad's website:
What color are you looking at spraying, as crash said a better base will cover in fewer coats, and the reason i'm asking color is that some colors will get really good coverage in just a few coats. While other colors take more.
Color and quality does make a big difference in the coverage. I am in the process of painting a 1973 Mustang with Pro Spray that I got from Chad. The color is Performance Red and was kind of pricey for a non-metalic base, but covered the white SPI epoxy sealer in just 2 coats and just over 2 qts of base. The last Stang that I did was a 67 that was done with Chromabase in Acapulco Blue. That car took 3 full coats and was over 3 qts of base.
If your painting experience is limited, spend the money on a quality base, and cover it with SPI clear. It will definately be worth the money. The more you have to spray, the more chances of mistakes to screw things up.
To be clear (no pun intended) The universal will go over your stuff as well as theirs, I would make sure the color is activated like it should be and wait over night.
You can call me anytime, of course.
Did we chase him away?
I hope not, these are very tough threads to answer and this is where the problem comes in on any forum like this.
He pointed out, he did not want an arm chair response from someone that did not use it, so he got a little mad at Shine.
Problem comes in when a professional painter answers something like this is they know the reputation of all the brands whether they have used the brand or not, they learn these facts from their jobber salesman or other painters and shops they know.
The other issue is, painters are looking at the long term results and not the short term and to a lot of people not in this business, red is red and green is green and of course price is the big difference.
To compare, take a mechanic, he knows not to use a fram oil filter, yet they have some great advertising, so the customer knows the name fram but don't know what a wix is as no real need for Wix to advertise to the do it your self market.
This is also why you see very few painters stick around most general paint forums for long, as the frustration, over the pors, rust converters and low grade paints, do take there toll.
Hard to explain and harder to understand.
Overall, I think he got a more civilized answer and and a better answer here then he could of, on most forums and I would like to thank you all for that.
when 50 dollars worth of cheap paint is more important than the quality of the job on their car i do get frustrated. 19 dollar paint guns and cheap internet paint . it shows disrespect for the ones who do this for a living every day. i visit those other paint forums but never post. it is absolutely amazing what kind of advice you see. but then i have hired those same idiots time after time over the years. some will never make it past lot car work .
i will no longer post on a thread where i do not recognize the poster. it is a waste of time. they do not want the right answer, they will ask the same question on every board until they find someone to agree with them. i think my days on the net are numbered .
and for the record . there are not many brands of paint i have not used over the years. reps give the stuff away trying to get you to switch.
i do not have to load acme into my gun to know it is junk. and i would use jd blitz before using kirker.
I haven't gone away! LOL! And THANK YOU to all who've replied so far. I simply enjoyed the weekend and did some bodywork. I'm not mad AT Shine, simply the tone of one post. Nothing personal. He made a point without firsthand knowledge which was the opposite of my question. Let's move on.
Again, to start with, this was going to be a simple spray-n-pray save-a-buck paint job. Plans changed a bit, so here we are. I've talked with 3 jobbers, and the paint on the ballot is Crossfire, Omni, and Nason (which the jobber for Nason doesn't seem concerned about returning a call). I've shot Nason with good results. What about Omni? For convenience (refills, supporting supplies and jobber support), Omni would get the nod. Is it worth a flip? When I asked, he stated it used no activator, but since, I've found both AE and AU don't require activator as such so I'm not sure which one we were discussing. I'll look more into that if it's worth the time.
Color is 2k (red). Price difference around here between the lower ends mentioned and the regular PPG and such is too much to consider. Anyone insisting, feel free to send cash! Otherwise, let's work within my budget.
Is this car a keeper?
Reds are the worse and my choice in this order is Nason, Omni, other I forgot so not listed>>>> LOL
Is this a factory code red? What kind of car is it?
Ya caught me on my way out the door (to work), so to be brief: It's an old Mustang I'm bringing back. Yep, it deserves more, but...
So, you put Nason in front of Omni? I suspected the opposite, but that's why I ask - I don't know about them. The color code is a factory code, but there is no matching involved as it's a complete inside/out redo. Focusing on Omni (for the moment/sake of conversation), he is selling the MBC AU I just found out for sure. I lean towards these guys as they've been in business the same time I've been in auto repair - 28 years. I "can" use the Nason, but support sucks and the paint comes from another county which makes refills, oops issues and such a problem. Locally, it's between Omni and Crossfire.
Well let me say up front I'm not a professional by any means, I've only painted about 3 cars in my life and I'm no spring chicken. I've always tried to use good paint, but like kmatch i don't have an unlimited budget. After spending a lot of time reading different forums about paint I was even more confused. So one day I was on the Chevelle forum and i was recommended to come here. After reading for months, I was convinced that there was a lot of professionals posting.
I was going to paint my Chevelle SS with Dupont until I found out how much that stuff costs. So I decided to ask on here and was delighted to find Pro-Spray from Chad s. His paint was half the price. I ordered a gallon of his paint and let me tell you it covers. I laid SPI white epoxy primer under it and it covered in two coats, but I added a third to make sure I didn't have any thin spots.. not a pro here, and used Universal Clear on top.
But the final results were far more than I ever expected it to be. My two brothers and my nephew wanted to know if I would paint their old hot rods for them and wondered if I would paint cars for a living.. I told them NO WAY.. They couldn't believe how my paint turned out. I want kmatch to know that there are cheaper alternatives out there and to follow the advice on this forum. I have been given free advice that works to a tee, for free.. what more can u ask for. Top notch advice and I appreciate all you guys have done for me.
BTW I have used different color basecoats from Chad and will never buy anywhere else.
Senile Old Fart
if the Omni red covers as well as Omni black, then run like hell, its crap.
Thanks glen, i appreciate..
I also have to agree with barry on nason over omni! I have tried both and from what I remember I remember always getting better results from nason, whether it was base, clear, or single stage. It just seemed to be better all around, but it's been probably 7yrs since I have used either.
After having 2 omni jobs die back really bad I decided that using lower grade products wasn't worth it for me.
But I have to back up my work, you just have to please yourself.
I used omni twice. Both for my vehicles. Never again. The base took a ton of coats to cover and their ss was just a cheap enamel with a shot of "urethane additive" lmaoooo.. The base job died back and
the single stage job even though topcoated with universal, cracks underneath!!!!! Yes I said cracks.. It was fine on metal, but on my bumpers.. if u push on them it cracks under the clear like craZy!!
I understand painting inside a budget, however some corners need not be cut.. Just my opinion from a backyardagain hack :)
Interesting replies! I thought highly of Omni for some reason, then I did the research and came up with the same thing mentioned here over, and over, and over... it covers like water. While I can't hardly find bad reviews on a low end like Kirker, there's plenty of bad news about a supposed "upper" lower class like Omni. So a bit more searching on Nason gives it much higher grades than I expected. I've had personal good results with it the one time I used it from matching (not an issue here) to workability and others think it's a good bang for the buck. It may do for my needs. It's priced to match my abilities so it sounds like a plan. Let's remember one thing: A budget is one thing, but even $1000 paint won't make a hobo painter a pro. I've gotta paint within my abilities. On the other hand, better paints might hide some of my in-abilities. Hmmm... Thanks for ALL the help, guys. I'm still open to suggestions, though, so any other thoughts, by all means, post for there's room for lurkers to learn as well.
Curious as to whether you considered Pro-Spray, and why or why not.
I was seriously considering putting a Pro-Spray mixing bank in my shop, may still do it in the future when budget allows.
ProSpray sounds good, but considering it being nearly double in cost for an unknown (to me) and mail order, it just doesn't give me good vibes for the job at hand.
by all means use the omni .
Us po' folks jus' don' git no respect. Dude, as long as you're as helpful as in this thread, how about keeping that promise you made in your second reply? I thought you just had a bad day. I was wrong. It happens.
how much is the omni and how much you need?
employee of mine does lot work at his house occasionally on the side and just about all he uses is omni base. does fine for what he's doing. Myself personally, wouldn't touch it. But what we do at work is totally different that what he is doing in his shop in the backyard. Same goes for anything i paint myself. Different strokes for different folks. You would rather use the paint store you know because they are convienent and thats what they carry and their stuff fits your budget...completely understand that. But i would seriously consider the pro spray. Have you priced it vs the omni or nason? I've never used it but i've seen nothing but good raves on it here and other places. I know you have a budget, but i just hate to see guys get this far skimp on the color. You've already found SPI..there are a lot of cheaper priced clears than the uv you are using and you get cheaper quality along with that price...but since you've used the spi you wont turn back will you?
Researching Omni, it seems to be hated worse than Rustoleum. No thanks, although that does surprise me coming from PPG. Why? You trying to pawn some off on someone? LOL!
You would rather use the paint store you know because they are convienent and thats what they carry and their stuff fits your budget...completely understand that. But i would seriously consider the pro spray. Have you priced it vs the omni or nason? I've never used it but i've seen nothing but good raves on it here and other places. I know you have a budget, but i just hate to see guys get this far skimp on the color. You've already found SPI..there are a lot of cheaper priced clears than the uv you are using and you get cheaper quality along with that price...but since you've used the spi you wont turn back will you?
Prospray was considerably higher than my local choices - twice in some cases. More expensive paint won't make me a painter. Painting is a hobby so I can afford the time to fix mistakes and such as my income isn't dependent on this as many of the guys defending going up a notch. Some make me laugh getting so worked up about it, I wonder why they don't call the manufacture and insist they close the doors for selling such horrible crap. Selling some poor slob POR making him think he'll make it onstage at Barrett Jackson is pretty bad, just the same as spraying HOK pearls onto a CJ7 and beating it around the woods. My project and skills calls for a middle of the line product and knowing where one stands is job one.
SPI primer suits me for its rust protecting abilities around the gulf coast. SPI clear suits me because it sounds forgiving for scuff and buff which will be needed for any mistakes I make such as dust and a possible run or 2. What goes in between requires it to look decent and stick. That's it. This car will be driven daily and maybe even washed sometimes.
I've used Nason before and liked it. Folks all over the net like it. It's kind of a pain to get, but doable within a day or so, so that's what I'm using. Those that are offended? Hah! I'm accepting donations for anyone who thinks I should step it up! LOL!
When considering the price, make sure that you consider the amount of materials you will be using. If you need to shoot 4-6 coats of Nason or another lower priced brand, instead of 2-3 coats of a higher quality, then you have to adjust the prices to make up for that. I understand budgets, but sometimes that means you wait a little longer. If you look at the budget and decide that way, you may be sorry. Let's say your budget is $1000, and it would take $1200 to use a better paint, then why not wait until the additional $200 is available? If you do it with the cheaper paint, then you may wish you had gone the better way. Not to do it will cost you another $1200, instead of the original additional $200.
I don't know what prices you have gotten, or sure about the color, but the Pro Spray has very good coverage. As I stated earlier, I got complete coverage in 2 coats over white epoxy sealer. The car I am working on is a 73 Mustang. It is one of the largest Mustangs made when it comes to paintable areas. Three quarts would have given me plenty to repair quite a few screw-ups, even doing the insides of the hood, trunk lid and doors.
You are right to believe that a higher quality paint won't make you a professional painter. A cheaper, low quality paint will make it harder to produce an acceptable paint job.
Most people here know me. I am not a professional painter. I usually paint 1 or 2 cars a year, but my main thing is bodywork. For a long time I used cheaper paint guns, figuring that a good gun was not going to make me a painter. One day I borrowed a SATA from a friend of mine. I found out what a difference quality makes. Now I have an Iwata that I purchased a while back. Can't figure out why I didn't listen to the experts sooner.
BTW..... If you would add your location to your profile, you may find that there is someone that is close to you and willing to help.
It's interesting to me how you are sold on the quality of SPI clears and primers, but seem to consider the base color as almost an afterthought.
I can assure you that the quality of the base has a substantial effect on the quality of the paint job. Adhesion, chip resistance, gloss, and overall longevity are all influenced by the type of basecoat used.
The point of a higher quality base is not to make you a better painter, but to improve the quality of the finish. Most of us have witnessed guys spend hundreds of hours on a project only to basically ruin it with poor product selection. I think the reason most of us resist this type of thinking so much is because we value ourselves and our time spent on a job substantially more than the cost of the paint.
I have told customers that if they want to stay within a budget, not to choose red. It is the most expensive solid color. It's also quite common for less expensive reds to have extremely poor coverage, necessitating additional purchases of color that will partially or totally negate any cost savings you are trying to realize, as well as creating a thicker film of base, which compromises the quality of the finish.
No matter what base you choose, get a few sprayout cards from the jobber (they ought to be free) and see how many coats it takes to cover the test pattern. You might be unpleasantly surprised.
Omni Bases And Nason bases are Horrible to say the least :mad:
when you are working from the ground up,you need ever step to be a good quality product,saying the base is just there for looks and will be sealed by the clear is not correct at all.
the better the base the better the coverage,better Adhesion and longer all around life of the color.
i have used my fair share of cheaper bases,both Nason and Omni over the years at my repair shop.
i found right away they were junk and color matching was piss poor.
so i said well i will use only for budget all overs when i get 1 or 2,well that lasted about 1 or 2 times and i found myself asking why in the Hell would i even think about using this Junk :confused:
i am in the collision repair side and work with bodywork and primers and paints daily.
i don't use junk Filler and i don't use Junk Primer and i don't use Junk bases or clears,i have been down this road and i have felt and seen the results months to years later.
everything is about price?we all have the problem ever day with everything from groceries to Gas we put in our vehicles.
i only use Deltron Dbc base coats at my shop for all my work,yes its pricey but i have to make my work look great and sell my product after every job and it has to last more than 1-2 years ;)
i use all SPI primers,Reducers and UV clear.
skimping on the base is just another step that is wrong in the process of painting.
i hope you take no offense to this,as I am just stating facts like a lot have already stated to you.
if you cant afford to use a Quality base you might ask yourself why?you have good Quality Primer and Clear.
i have heard great things about Pro-Spray also which i plan to try someday on something of my own,just to see what its all about.
i wish you the best,Travis :cool:
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Joe Calzaghe has wished rival Bernard Hopkins a Merry Christmas and added a New Year warning if they meet: You will lose. The Undisputed Super-Middleweight king ended 2007 with a spectacular win over Mikkel Kessler in his record tenth year as WBO world champion and has now set his sight on a showdown against the American legend. In his festive message to Hopkins, the Welsh wonder said: "Dear Ol' Popkins! Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and hope you made the most of winning your only fight this year because when we meet in 2008 it will be your last! Best Wishes, Joe Calzaghe, Undisputed World Super-Middleweight Champion.."
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Check out our comprehensive directory of Flekkefjord hotels with quality, independent reviews. Search for a Flekkefjord hotel by name, star rating, or user rating. Travel Library always lists the real direct contact details for every hotel in Flekkefjord including email, Web site address, telephone and location address.
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|The Message (MSG)
|New International Version (NIV)
|5 But it was our sins that did that to him, that ripped and tore and crushed him - our sins! He took the punishment, and that made us whole. Through his bruises we get healed.
|5 But he was pierced for our transgressions, he was crushed for our iniquities; the punishment that brought us peace was upon him, and by his wounds we are healed.
|Published by permission. Originally published by NavPress in English as THE MESSAGE: The Bible in Contemporary Language copyright 2002 by Eugene Peterson. All rights reserved. (The Message Bible Online)
|Scripture quoted by permission. Quotations designated (NIV) are from THE HOLY BIBLE: NEW INTERNATIONAL VERSION®. NIV®. Copyright © 1973, 1978, 1984 by Biblica. All rights reserved worldwide. (New International Version Bible Online)


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Liver Cancer Prognosis—What is The Outcome Stage by Stage?
Just what is liver cancer prognosis?
Liver cancer prognosis is the amount of possibility for a patient's recovery or the chance of the cancer occurring again or recovery ever occurring. There are various factors which affect the recurrence of liver cancer, some which are most important are:
Cancer Type and Location in the Body
- Metastasization (or the extent of which the cancer has progressed or spread.);
- Its grade (How abnormal the cancer cells appear and the rate of progression of the cancer cells.)
There are also several other factors, such as the person's general health, their age, and the level of response to treatment.
What does liver cancer prognosis depend on?
- Which particular stage the cancer is at (The size of the tumor, whether or not it affects only part or the entirety of the liver, or it having spread or not to other parts of the body);
- How well the liver is functioning;
- The patients general health including whether or not there is cirrhosis of the liver regardless of how it occurred;
- Alpha-fetoprotein (AFP) levels
What are the survival rates for someone with liver cancer?
What survival rates indicate are the percentage of people with a particular kind and stage of cancer who survive the disease for a particular duration of time after they have been given a diagnosis. It is not uncommon for statistics of liver cancer to refer to the five year survival rate, which refers to the total number of people that are typically alive (not necessarily thriving) five years after their diagnosis and whether or not they have little or no indications or signs of cancer, are free from the disease, or are receiving any treatment.
Survival rates are based on large groups of people therefore are generalized or quantified, and cannot be used to predict what will happen to a particular patient; merely, it tells what is typical for a patient relative to their symptoms and the knowledge of the disease and the chances relative to the majority of those with similar symptoms. This is because no two patients are alike, and biology of the patients vary from person to person, making it unlikely for a similar outcome in even seemingly similar cases.
Survival Rates and Liver Cancer Prognosis
Survival rates can be determined or calculated by various methods for various purposes, which are not the same. The particular liver cancer survival rates shown are based on the relative survival rate, which evaluates the likelihood of survival of the cancer in patients in relation to the general populous in order to figure out the effect of cancer. The overall relative five-year liver cancer survival rate for the years of 1991-2001 was 9%.
Five year relative survival rates for liver cancer by sex and race were:
- 7.4% for white men
- 10.6% for white women
- 5.5% for black men
- 4.6% for black women
How do the stages of liver cancer affect the prognosis?
Of course, early detection is key so the stage at which the liver cancer is detected, diagnosed and when treatment begins all affect the prognosis.
- 31% of cases are diagnosed while the cancer is strictly in the primary site, or localized stage
- 26% of cases are diagnosed where the cancer has spread to the regional lymph nodes, beyond the primary site, or regional stage
- 22% of cases diagnosed once the cancer is in the distant stage, or has metastasized
- The staging information was unknown for 22% of cases
Five year relative survival rates of those with liver cancer based on the stage:
- 19.0% for localized stage
- 6.6% for regional stage
- 3.4% for distant stage
- 3.3% for unstaged stage
Liver Cancer Prognosis and Death Rates
The average age of people who died from liver cancer was 71 years old from 1998-2002.
The percentage of people whose cause of death is liver cancer based on age:
- 0.5% died under age 20
- 0.8% died between 20 and 34
- 3.2% died between 35 and 44
- 13.0% died between 45 and 54
- 17.4% died between 55 and 64
- 26.8% died between 65 and 74
- 27.4% died between 75 and 84
- 10.9% died at 85+ years of age.
The liver cancer death rate was 4.7 per 100,000 men and women (age adjusted). These rates are based on deaths occurring from 1998-2002 in the United States. Death rates based on race and sex were:
- 6.8 per 100,000 men and 3.0 per 100,000 women for all races
- 6.2 per 100,000 men and 2.7 per 100,000 women (White)
- 9.5 per 100,000 men and 3.8 per 100,000 women (Black)
- 15.4 per 100,000 men and 6.5 per 100,000 women (Asian/Pacific Islander)
- 7.9 per 100,000 men and 4.3 per 100,000 women (American Indian/Alaska Native)
- 10.7 per 100,000 men and 5.1 per 100,000 women (Hispanic)
Patients seeking information on liver cancer prognosis face the same uncertainty as those with other kinds of cancer. Although some patients find it easier to deal with their prognosis by knowing the statistics, some believe the numbers are too impersonal, and therefore useless. Patients are in a better position when equipped with a doctor knowledgeable of the patient's individual situation because that doctor can relay what the statistics will mean for that person.
However, it is vital to note that even doctors won't be able to tell exactly what to expect: liver cancer prognosis can change based on whether or not the treatment is successful or the cancer has spread. It is ultimately up to the patient to seek information on liver cancer prognosis and determine how they will deal with it.
If you're looking for the most up to date information on cancer of the liver and its prognosis, click here right now and don't live one more day with the fear that uncertainty can bring. Of course, knowledge may be power, but a doctor is the only person who can save your life.


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Corbett Administration Tours Volvo CE's New Expansion In Franklin County, Pennsylvania
HARRISBURG, Pa., March 21, 2013 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ -- Department of Community and Economic Development Secretary C. Alan Walker today visited Volvo Construction Equipment's (Volvo CE) North American Headquarters in Franklin County, where he praised the company for its $100 million expansion and creation of 300 jobs.
"Governor Corbett is committed to making Pennsylvania an economic leader by investing in the growth of companies like Volvo CE and the jobs they create in the commonwealth," said Walker. "The third largest construction equipment manufacturer in the world will add 300 jobs in addition to the more than 800 employees that already go to work here in Franklin County."
Volvo CE relocated its management and production capacity from an out-of-state facility and expanded its existing facility in Franklin County because of Pennsylvania's global position and its commitment to investing in the North American market. The newly expanded facility houses the company's new wheel loader production line and serves as the only Volvo CE production facility in North America.
In addition to Volvo CE's relocation and expansion the company has moved its North American sales office and Volvo Rents Headquarters to the state. Volvo Rents is a separate division, and will remain based at a separate facility nearby. The new expansion and relocation will serve as the consolidated North American Headquarters for Volvo CE."The economic impact that Volvo CE has on this region is undeniable and one the Corbett Administration is proud to support," said Walker. "Today is a great example of state government partnering with local economic development organizations and private business to bring new jobs and investment to Pennsylvania." To help the company's expansion efforts, DCED through the Governor's Action Team (GAT) offered Volvo CE a $1 million Pennsylvania First grant, $900,000 in Job Creation Tax Credits and $100,000 from the Guaranteed Free Training Program to support the $40 million expansion. The company has committed to creating 300 jobs and retaining 829 existing jobs. Volvo CE is a wholly owned business unit of the Volvo Group, and a global leader of transportation vehicles and construction equipment based in Sweden. The Volvo CE Shippensburg plant has become the North American headquarters for this business unit, and the third largest construction equipment manufacturer in the world, selling backhoes, excavators, haulers, loaders, and motor graders. Media contact: Steve Kratz, 717-783-1132 SOURCE Pennsylvania Department of Community & Economic Development
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Four former guards of the notorious private security firm Blackwater face new manslaughter charges from the US DoJ over a 2007 shooting in Baghdad. The original charges were dropped in 2009, a month before a scheduled trial.
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Blackwater /Greystone =same corporation that goes all the way up the chain to to the white house ,you can keep changing the name of these killer elite that shoot innocent women and children for a laugh !
Given a psyc test in peace time they would locked away for a long time in a nut house ,
America a country that ended up with thousands of soldiers that come home but have the 1000 yard stare !
Then get employed by Blackwater/Greystone the white house backroom boys !
American Mercenaries for hire.....
yeah one day theyll be stripped naked and dragged thru the streets screaming ...justice will come to you cowardly sc*m...for now they will use their jewish lawyers to squirm their way out
The "heroes" who dies at wars are just like those... theyre all killers, mercenaries.
Academi/Xe/Blackwate r... mercenaries are hired killers, nothing more. They can enjoy no protection from the rule of law. "Rules of engagement" must never apply to those who murder for money. By the way, look at how well dressed they are... the death business must be good... their so-called prosperity is an affront to morality.
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Win 20 Tickets & Merchandise To 'Wrath of the Titans' 3D Premiere
Thanks to Warner Brothers & Shooting Stars, we have 20 tickets for the premiere to give away along with some amazing merchandise.
Sam Worthington, Ralph Fiennes and Liam Neeson star once again as gods at war in 'Wrath of the Titans' , under the direction of Jonathan Liebesman.
A decade after his heroic defeat of the monstrous Kraken, Perseus (Worthington) —the demigod son of Zeus (Neeson)—is attempting to live a quieter life as a village fisherman and the sole parent to his 10-year old son, Helius.
Meanwhile, a struggle for supremacy rages between the gods and the Titans. Dangerously weakened by humanity's lack of devotion, the gods are losing control of the imprisoned Titans and their ferocious leader, Kronos, father of the long-ruling brothers Zeus, Hades (Fiennes) and Poseidon (Danny Huston). The triumvirate had overthrown their powerful father long ago, leaving him to rot in the gloomy abyss of Tartarus, a dungeon that lies deep within the cavernous underworld.
Perseus cannot ignore his true calling when Hades, along with Zeus' godly son, Ares (Edgar Ramírez), switch loyalties and make a deal with Kronos to capture Zeus. The Titans' strength grows stronger as Zeus' remaining godly powers are siphoned, and hell is unleashed on earth.
Enlisting the help of the warrior Queen Andromeda (Rosamund Pike), Poseidon's demigod son, Argenor (Toby Kebbell), and fallen god Hephaestus (Bill Nighy), Perseus bravely embarks on a treacherous quest into the underworld to rescue Zeus, overthrow the Titans and save mankind.
Watch 'Wrath of the Titans' in IMAX® 3D, 3D & 2D starting March 29th. In cinemas Only.
Thanks to Warner Brothers & Shooting Stars, we have 20 tickets for the premiere to give away along with some amazing merchandise.
Premiere Details:
Venue - Grand Megaplex, Ibn Battuta Mall
Time - March 27th at 9:00pm.
- Into the Woods
- MV5BMTY4MzQ4OTY3NF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTgwNjM5MDI3MjE@._V1_SX214_AL_
- MV5BNDUwMjAxNTU1MF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTgwMzg4NzMxMDE@._V1_SX214_AL_
- The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies
- Gone with the Wind
- MV5BMTU4NTExNzA2N15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTgwMzYyNTk4MjE@._V1_SX214_AL_
- Get Santa
- MV5BMzQ1NjQyNTg1OF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTgwNTE1OTE2MzE@._V1_SY317_CR0,0,214,317_AL_


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Pendant Lighting & Pendant Light kits
Pendant lighting will add a sophisticated touch to your room design. Suspended from the ceiling, pendant lights provide a flexible method for determining how much lighting to install in a room. With many different pendant light options to choose from, incorporating pendant lighting into your design will be a breeze.
Estiluz - T-5655-47 - E-Llum$1,393.00
Estiluz - T-1126-37 - Chandelier$1,201.00
Estiluz - T-5655BF-47 - E-Llum$1,418.00